Hi All,
I am currently going through the process to remove my engine. I have read a number of posts so think I have a good grasp on what needs to be done but I am hitting the usual obstacles of rusted nuts & bolts etc.
I am planning to drop it out of the bottom as covered in a number of threads, splitting the upper ball joints with jack under the hub to relieve the tension in the torsion bars. Also, read that it can all be done without removing the interior (console) so will try it that way.
Over the last few days I have been trying to get the exhaust nuts undone where the pipe connects to exhaust manifolds. After a lot of penetrant and waiting, I finally got them out last night. Unfortunately the manifold does not want to come free from the downpipes. Is it just a push fit that needs a lot of penetrating oil and should come out with a bit of persuasion or am I missing something ?
Also, as I cannot get them apart, is it an options to drop it with the engine and remove once below the car as one piece (full exhaust and exhaust manifolds) or is this not an option due to limited space ?
I guess the other options would be to cut them out but I was planning to re-use them so did not really want to go that route.
Ooh yeah - I love using a big hammer on the E-Type - but sometimes that’s the only way.
Good luck with that. Removing the console isn’t that big a deal and gives you lots of access both during removal and also for cleaning once all is out. Many (well me anyway) also choose to add some modern heat-shield product to the inside of the tunnel - also much easier with the tunnel top off.
I am assuming the exhaust manifold should be bolted tight to the block when trying to break this free with a hammer. I was a little worried about breaking studs but I guess I was probably being a little over cautious.
Will break out my mallet and climb under the car and give it some thwacks and hope for the best.
I did it in Jan. Remove the console, it’s only a handful of screws, seats can stay in place… It’s a lot easier to get at the U joint bolts, reverse wire, trans vent pipe…
Jay, a two foot length of 2x4 between the down pipes, and block and few good yanks… make sure your jackstands are solid! Between the hassle of the u joint, speedo cable, reverse wiring, trans foam, I would pull the console.
There’s likely a lot of carbon accumulated between the exhaust seal and the manifold, maybe some rust too. Penetrating oil and time will probably help, then have at it. You could also try loosening the manifold from the head and twisting it to and fro to loosen it from the down pipe.
Not recommending a mallet or bfh, though both would work I suppose, but a dead blow hammer - moulded plastic and containing a couple pounds of lead shot. You might otherwise damage the pipes.
You need to undo the drive shaft, and I don’t know anyway to do that without removing the trans cover which means removing the console etc. Also if going out the bottom with the torsion bars still in the car you will have some clearance issues with the exhaust manifolds attached. Not saying it can’t be done but if possible it will be tight.
My friend took his out from the bottom. The exhaust manifolds had to come off, but I think he left in inlet manifold on, but he had to remove some of the studs.
I’ve just taken my MK9 engine out the same way. I bolted some castors to where the engine mounts are so it could be wheeled out.
It is possible, I’ve done it three times on a 71 S2 OTS. Exhaust manifolds on ( no down pipes) unbolt drive shaft from below ( slow process, one flat at a time, rear wheels suspended so you can advance or adjust wrench angle with one foot on a tire). Goes back on the same way.
My seats come out just by removing the screw down into the floor at the rear of the seat rails. The front of the rails fit over pegs in the floor. I do not remember ever trying to remove console with seat in place since they are so easy to pull on my car. Console is easy too. Just be careful with the radio portion so you do not scar the vinyl around the shifter when pulling it toward the rear.
Managed to get the exhaust off and headers. There was a little collateral damage in the process but at least I can move on. The front downpipe came out of the header without issue but one of the header bolt holes corners broke off, aghh. The other downpipe has still not released from the header but while wiggling the exhaust around the exhaust split at the bumpy section just in front of the mufflers. This did allow me to remove the complete exhaust and them remove the back manifold with the downpipe. Will use heat and penetrating oil now it’s out the car to separate.
Next job is breaking the upper ball joints and releasing the tension in the torsion bars. Any hints and tips appreciated.
Managed to drop the front suspension on both sides and now trying to remove the reaction plate. I have removed one of the big bolts that connects to the chassis rail, the other side just seems to be turning and not coming out. Such fun trying to remove them one flat at a time.
I have removed the nut from the two lower reaction plate bolts and loosened all 4 bolts but they do not seem to want to come out. Any tricks for this I am not aware of ?
Jay, the bigger bolts do have nuts on the far side. Are those removed? They are under a fair amount of tension. Do I understand you have split your upper ball joints right?
Yes, upper ball joints split, tie rods split and top bolt removed for the shocks. I have let the tension out of the torsion bars.
The two big bolts look to connect into the chassis, I don’t see bolts on the end. Mine is a series 2 2+2. I’ll take another look tomorrow but don’t see any bolts.
