Engine stand bolt size

Hi

I am rebuilding the engine (well the crank and pistons have been fitted by the machine shop!) and have splashed out on a engine stand, 650kg model

Could anyone confirm the best holes to use and what size bolts (Grade 8?) to use please

It’s a S1 4.2 with later block

Many thanks in anticipation

Paul

You use the threaded holes for the bell housing. They’re 3/8" UNF. Length depends on your stand. My bolts are about 4" in length.

Make sure to use the very upper and lower holes of engine block to increase leverage and decrease chances of stress on the block. Also, it was strongly recommended that I NOT use the stamped metal “L” shaped brackets.

Marco

Thanks for your replies

Not sure what you mean by not using brackets?

Do not use these brackets to hold the engine on the stand (circled in red) but use the ones on the engine block just above them and the ones used to hold the engine stabilizer.

Marco

Hi Paul,

4 inches is about right for the length if they are of a good grade of bolt (no cheese, grade 5 or more). Just make sure before you lock things in for any length of time (don’t be afraid to use washers, too, but not piled like pancakes at a firehouse breakfast) that the swing not only affords full 360 degrees but if you are doing any rear seal work mods (rear seal housing upgrade, for example) that you have either left yourself enough room or just plan on doing it when the engine is not on the stand.

Also know that it is okay, or was by me, to have the block mounted a bit off balanced, to access in particular index positions (i.e…when installing the pistons rods it like to be on its side, bottom up for installing the crank, etc… but you really don’t have that issue) just know that when it swings if it is not fully centered it creates panic for some quick reflexes and Herculean-like strength to catch before it it becomes an eccentric physics wonder of motion. I was able to slow it down in turning over so it wouldn’t get carried away, but I probably should have re-mounted the thing.

Hope this makes some sense and is helpful.

Good luck and kudos on your progress, thus far!

Huff
69 2+2

Thanks for making the effort to photo graph Marco

That makes total sense

Thanks Huff

Very reassuring!

Yes pistons and crank with new seal are in

I am going to do timing chains. Not done one before. Just wondering which is No1 cylinder! And where to set the distributor to to set up the cams.

Love this forum!

Do you have a good workshop manual?

1 Like

Paul;
The number one cylinder is the cylinder nearest the bulkhead (firewall), the rear of the engine as most think of the engine. Most would think the number one cylinder was at the front of the engine but not for the Jaguar engine at least.
As for setting the distributor and cams, get out your Bentley Manual, it is all in there. I read it several times before I tackled the project and then followed it step by step.

Regards, Joel.

2 Likes

Got the Haynes and Bentley

Just haven’t heard 2 people agree which is No1!!

Number 1, as per factory specs, is the cylinder closest to the flywheel.

That makes at LEAST three agreements!

:stuck_out_tongue_closed_eyes:

Hi,

EVERYBODY (except my ex S1’s PO) agrees on that cyl nr 1. is the one closest to the driver. Nr. 6 is the 1st one looking from the front of the car. :slight_smile:

Cheers!

No wiggling out of that logic!!