Make sure to use the very upper and lower holes of engine block to increase leverage and decrease chances of stress on the block. Also, it was strongly recommended that I NOT use the stamped metal “L” shaped brackets.
Do not use these brackets to hold the engine on the stand (circled in red) but use the ones on the engine block just above them and the ones used to hold the engine stabilizer.
4 inches is about right for the length if they are of a good grade of bolt (no cheese, grade 5 or more). Just make sure before you lock things in for any length of time (don’t be afraid to use washers, too, but not piled like pancakes at a firehouse breakfast) that the swing not only affords full 360 degrees but if you are doing any rear seal work mods (rear seal housing upgrade, for example) that you have either left yourself enough room or just plan on doing it when the engine is not on the stand.
Also know that it is okay, or was by me, to have the block mounted a bit off balanced, to access in particular index positions (i.e…when installing the pistons rods it like to be on its side, bottom up for installing the crank, etc… but you really don’t have that issue) just know that when it swings if it is not fully centered it creates panic for some quick reflexes and Herculean-like strength to catch before it it becomes an eccentric physics wonder of motion. I was able to slow it down in turning over so it wouldn’t get carried away, but I probably should have re-mounted the thing.
Paul;
The number one cylinder is the cylinder nearest the bulkhead (firewall), the rear of the engine as most think of the engine. Most would think the number one cylinder was at the front of the engine but not for the Jaguar engine at least.
As for setting the distributor and cams, get out your Bentley Manual, it is all in there. I read it several times before I tackled the project and then followed it step by step.