I have a very nice 1989 XJS with 23500 miles on it.Owned since the summer
Now I have read all the advice on fuel lines etc and over this Xmas hols I decided to fit my injector kit from Mr Injector.
Clued up on you tube I fitted the kit all fine and refitted back to the car paying special attention to make sure the plugs went back to the correct injector, all were numbered by me.
All injectors were done one by one and fitted to the same spot on the rail.
Now I have fuel up to the rail, the car will turn over but not fire. Im no mechanic but I know everything went back as it was so I’m a bit at a loss what to do next.
I have so checked for fuel at the rail which I have. Also removed one of the front injectors to see if there was any fuel coming on when I turned it over, nothing coming out.
Pat,
Welcome to Jag-Lovers.
Does your car have the Lucas or Marelli ignition system (1989 was the transition year)? Do you hear the fuel pump running when you crank the engine over with the starter? Do you have spark at the plugs when you crank the engine?
Pat,
Get a mechanics stethoscope and listen to the fuel injectors while someone else cranks the engine with the ignition key. You should hear a very pronounced clicking at all 12 injectors that proves that they are working. Also check for spark at the plugs.
The Marelli cars have a Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) beneath the harmonic balancer that provides the critical signal for ignition and fuel injection. If your fuel injectors aren’t clicking and there is no spark, then something is wrong with the CPS or the wiring that carries the CPS signal to the Marelli ECU and the Lucas EFI ECU. The problem you are experiencing happens sometimes after removing and replacing components in the “V”. Check to see if the injectors click and if you have spark at the plugs and write back with your results. Check the CPS connector at the front of the engine left side beneath the A/C compressor and make sure the connector is clean and tight.
Pat,
That disconnected wire IS your problem. Be very careful handling that wire. It is a shielded wire that transmits the ignition and EFI signals. That small white wire is very easy to break and complicated to repair. You need to find the other end and connect it up.
Ive just spent 20 minutes looking for the other sneaky end hidden in the fabric shroud so all started fine with no leaks.
One last question I thought I replaced all the fuel lines but there seems to be 2 in the picture I missed,
They both go to and from what I would call some sort of manifold connected to the air con The longer one lower in the picture going back to the bulk head,
Is it ok to replace them just not sure if I could get into trouble with the aircon.
Pat,
Congratulations! Glad I could help.
The “manifold” is the fuel cooler, a heat exchange unit that uses A/C refrigerant to cool the unused fuel as it returns from the engine bay to the fuel tank. The two large hoses/pipes attached to the ends carry the refrigerant and should not be disconnected. The two smaller hoses/pipes that are connected at right angles to the fuel cooler carry the fuel. You should replace the fuel hoses, especially if they are original and over 30 years old. The fuel hoses/pipes have metal tags on them with the part number and manufactured date stamped in them.
You have maybe prevented a fire by replacing those hoses. There are pretty much 17 rubber hoses in the engine bay that should be replaced every 10 years or so. Sure they may make it 30 years, but why chance it?
12 on injectors.
2 from pump line to fuel rail, if you have A bank FPR.
3 from fuel rail to tank line if you have AC fuel cooler.
Fwiw, i removed my ac fuel cooler, since i removed my AC. The fuel cooler was only for emissions, to minimize tank fumes.