Actually, some aerospace companies use it - Rotax I seem to remember use it in the 912/914/914S series of four stroke light aircraft engines.
If the system is designed for it, then its great stuff, but it’s not the cure-all that it seems to be marketed as.
I agree - antifreeze coolant is the best corrosion preventer we can get!
As the island never freezes, many people think that they dont need anti-freeze, so just use water.
(I have a workshop full of VERY expensive examples and lessons learned on why you need it in an engine!)
There are a few coolant corrosion preventing additives available that I’m trying to get at reasonable prices (without having to pay the exorbitant “dangerous chemical transport fees”). These would help cooling system efficiency problems in a few key vehicles where we can’t change the cooling system due to the desire to keep originality, but some extra cooling system efficiency would be good.
We have strange operating conditions here, long steep climbs at relatively low speed, but high engine power, so we don’t have great amounts of air moving through the radiator. Some original equipment cooling systems struggle.
Also, we have found through experimentation that using de-ionised water makes quite a difference too.
This came as a big surprise.
I’ve been using the water from the dehumidifier for years!
But, back to back, we have seen notable improvements when we compare de-ionised to “distilled” water from my dehumidifier.
I know, theoretically, they are both pure water, right, but we have seen proof in the pudding as it were. the De-Ionised water used in coolant is just one hell of a lot cleaner after one year.
You are of course correct, if we’re talking about a 1940’s vintage XK engine. I was talking far more theoretically. Evans coolant does not turn to steam bubbles at hot spots in the head, and therefore better stabilizes temperature, But, is has less specific heat capacity, and less ability to transfer heat (higher “R=value” if you will). So the engine runs hotter, but more stably. Plus corrosion advantages and yada yada.
I’m 73 years old and want my engines to run within their design parameters–coolly. I like to see my air-cooled Corvair at 350 F, and my XJ Series 1 on the O of NORMAL. But a more modern engine design might run hotter and more efficiently, and be a good match for Evans. Of course I think the electrics will probably preempt such development. IMHO.
Redline Water Wetter improves the cooling capability of water and has anti-corrosive protectants. It has no anti-freeze capabilities, but if used in climates or seasons where there is no chance of freezing, then it can serve the dual purpose of improving cooling capacity and protection against corrosion.
Cooling jackets were noticeably rustier than using antifreeze: given that’s a no-no, with sanctioning bodies, I just went back to dumping/refilling with water every race.
It would seem Water Wetter has a lesser level of anti-corrosives then.
As far as I know, anti-corrosives don’t reduce the heat transfer or boiling point of water. Water Wetter is basically a surfactant, which gives the improved heat transfer ability. Couldn’t it be combined with other additives such as what John has posted, to achieve the goal of improved cooling and corrosion protection?
Good movie! I once bought a bath caddy - purportedly brass - home and out of the box it looked suspicious so I hit it with a magnet. Stuck! I went back to the shop and did same. Owner says “so”? He found a shop assistant with a few clues who convinced him that brass is non magnetic. Not everybody knows many of the things we take as a given. Paul
As long as the thermostat is controlling, the addition of water wetter won’t affect the engine temperature - to a first approximation.
However when the thermostat is wide open for some reason or fault, then one can expect a drop in temperature due to the superior heat transfer between engine and coolant.
I used Water Wetter on one of my cars and saw a 20F drop in temp that was overheating due to its internal distress.
Also water alone will tend to give lower temps than the antifreeze mixture since water had a higher specific heat.
Paul,
With regard to water only race systems. I think oat additives like water wetter were designed to be used with a normal 50/50 mix. The 50/50 mix already has significant anti corrosion additives, so WW only needs to supplement them. If you are running only water (distilled), you need to use the anti-corrosion additive at a much higher dosage to have a similar level of protection. And changing the water after every race isn’t a huge deal as you are already bleeding the brakes, changing the oil (looking for bearing material in the oil), and many other things.
