Failed handbrake

It would definitely not hurt.
I didn’t, but my subframe was not that bad to begin with.
But I did a first coat with Rustol Owatrol.

When I did the same job recently, I focused on the mechanical issues, cosmetics was not a priority. I thoroughly cleaned the cage but did not paint it. I had the output shafts rebuilt and ordered rebuilt brake calipers. I rebuilt the handbrake mechanism myself (several new parts were needed). New radius arms were installed. Pinion seal was replaced. New brake rotors and pads installed. I installed new shocks only a year ago. All the above cost me about $1,200. While this approach will not meet concours requirements I now have confidence that I the rear end is technically ok.

The handbrake should last forever if its only on when the car is stopped.

Unless the pads delaminate, or an adjuster fails, they can last at least 50 years.

On all my cars I will use the hand brake to stop the car every now and then. Just lightly and not from speed, just so the pads are still bedded in and don’t get greasy and on some other cars so the drums don’t rust.
If the Jag handbrake fails it is from the pads delaminating.

In the US, we only use the handbrake when the car is parked. I know in the UK it is taught to use the handbrake whenever coming to a stop. That puts a lot of extra wear on the system!

They do?! First time I heard of something like this :joy:

Yep, although maybe just manual cars.

I took driving test in UK. If you didn’t come to stop putting car in neutral with handbrake on, instant fail. You then had to release handbrake as you let clutch out in first gear. Any roll back, instant fail.

Yeah on a hill, sure, but not, say, in traffic… and you stop and then if it takes forever you can think about it. Nobody does this in real life.

Wow, never tought f usig the hand brake to come to a stop!! What is the logic???

the logic is safety. Of course being on a hill is the first thought.

But also, if you get hit from behind while you’re sitting in neutral, you don’t rear end the car in front of you.

Not to come to a stop. It is applied once already stationary.
There is no wear when doing thus.

kind regards
Marek

Thanks. i misread it. IOt hads bern a og time. since i had a stick shift car in regular service.

My project before the jaguar was a Hot rod of the fortid. never got around to making the hand brke work. No, more than that. i had the lever. it never was installed, much less the cables to work the pads.

And, at a stop, i rarely f ever put the trans in netral. In frst and foot on the clutch. On a hill, a deft maeuver needed to nt roll back and get under way smoothly.

Way back when, Studebker cars ahd a “hill holder” to eliminate any oll bak. slick. mny kittle 41 Cahampion had it.

Carl

Guess they can’t heel-toe throttle and brake with one foot while working clutch with the other

No, all cars, but you’re right that they seem to want that. What I read is that you can wait about 5 seconds and then you should put it on.

I only do that if there’s someone behind me and it’s dark outside so I don’t dazzle them. Nobody else does it here in Germany.

Jags also had hill holders for a while (in the early 60s?) but it was to keep the automatic cars from creeping - nice feature though.

Aristides… What is the hub lower pivot bearing seal modification?

:+1:

Would these be appropriate for my car - a '78 manual 5.3?

I have read about ride height etc. being affected depending on spring and shock selection…

Sorry… 3rd question in a row.

Should I dismantle the half-shaft from it’s UJ’s, when cleaning them up, and replace the UJs when reassembling?