Hi Rui…As mentioned this setup was a poor design and only used for a few years…I suspect that yours has been worked on befor as you have an incorrect round section O ring fitted…I also think that assembly was done incorrect forceing the lip of the seal inside the bearing probably by not shimming it correctly…anyway you need to move on…fit the later units…Steve
Hi Rui,
Its not an issue. The spacer for the inner race is clamped tightly between the bearing’s inner race and the output shaft and rotates with the shaft and the bearing’s inner race. The outer race should not rotate and the spacer the same. Accordingly, the spacer would be subjected to the same axial force from the lip of the seal as the original 29 wide bearing.
I’ve frequently seen evidence of the outer race spinning in the bore. As mentioned in my earlier Post, the outer race is a running fit in the bore and if one follows the repair manual instruction to the letter, its literally only stopped from rotating by the “O” ring towards the bottom of the bore and slight axial pressure from the seal. The nut being loose would have no affect on the outer race rotating, or not.
In my opinion, its a flawed system as strictly specified in the repair manual, but is an excellent system utilizing the split, 29mm wide bearing and using a method to prevent the outer race from spinning in it’s bore. This can’t be done using axial clamping force applied by the seal housing, if the original style of seal, protruding circa 1.5mm; that is just too much seal to compress. The seal should not be cut down in length to achieve an acceptable compression length, but a seal of the correct length for the purpose used.
As Steve suggests, convert to the Taper Roller bearing system and move on.
Brent
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Update, back from the garage, mistery solved after looking at it with a magnifier glass:
The lip of the seal is 3mm thick .
The ID of the bearing racer sits exactly in the middle of the seal lip. Meaning approx half of the seal is squeezed with the bearing lip but the other inner part is not and finds its way slowly into the inner part of the outer bearing race.
After many years what you’ll see is a seal with a lip that has ‘two levels’, with the higher level getting inside the bearing and giving the ‘lego’ feeling fit . After all it seems a good design exactly because the inner part of the roller race seats in the middle of the seal and while the external half part may have collapsed under the pressure of the bearing , after many years, the inner half kept the original protrusion and ensures a tight fit also at the bearing race corner and keeps a thight fit .
As I said I had not a single drop of oil coming out of the differential . As you can see the part that is squeezed is even smaller that the one going in .
Absolutely Brent, but looking for a supplier in the UK took me two weeks ( thanks to Steve I found one ) and it will take two or more weeks to have it Belgium , after Brexit customs control etc, before it would be next day or so… And if something goes wrong and i need to send it back that will make it over an additional month send/return. It’s crazy 
Therefore my quest for a quicker solution .
I spent Covid lockdown restoring the bonnet and now that it is ready I wanted to finally use the car … Before winter 
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Hi Rui…have a look her, a company in Neatherlands…seam to have lots of old Jag spares…advertiseing on the JEC website…lots of spares…I dont know them so you will have to judge if they are ok to deal with…Steve https://jec.org.uk/classifieds/index.php?page=car-parts&id=5721
Thanks Steve, I saw it and Alan from AJS Engineering will send me an offer ! I am curious however to get the size of the spacers from SNGB, for my own educational purposes 
.
Sure Brent, not going for any solution that will not be guaranteed and with the info you provided I can now make an educated choice :
Will report back when i will receive something and will be able to progress. Frustrating break…
Enjoy your drivable XKEs, have a good weekend.
Rui
Very useful, thank you Steve for the link in the Netherlands! I was not aware. I prefer for this one to have already the semi-axels assembled and ready to bolt on. Waiting to see if Alan can send them.
Rui
Quick update : so two months later I now have the late model shafts ready to be assembled
Many thanks to all for the precious advise . I can now see how the late model is a better design under a leaks point of view, even if in my case I didn’t have a drop of oil coming out .
Any special joint compound to be used between the flanges and the case, Hylomax ?
I will report back after assembling .
Regards
Rui
