First Test Drive

Well, only 200 feet in reverse and 200 feet in first gear, but it starts easily and does actually drive and stop now. :joy:

5 Likes

Well done Rob!

It took me quite a while to get mine started for the first time after reassembling it. I had put a gallon of fuel in the tank and couldn’t understand why the pump was rattling away without bringing fuel to the carbs. Eventually it dawned on me that I needed to pull the reserve tap. One gallon was not quite enough to wet the non-reserve part of the tank.

Peter

It’s looking very nice. If you are needing a set of SS knock-ons, I was at a place her ein melbourne where amongst other stuff was new SS knock ons.

Er, ah, um, me too. :laughing:
Ed, didn’t you say the SS knockoffs are inferior to the post-war versions?

Not inferior, but you have to be more careful, when hitting them withe the square edges on the ears, the wise owner uses a toll, often a long piece of wood with a cut out of the knock on profile to use leverage instead of impact

If you dont mind a bit of work Rob refurbish your originals. Before Orson Equipment made repros I had and needed 3 sets all of which , save for a spare wheel K/O, were deformed. Built them up with migweld and profiled them to a pattern taken off the spare wheel K/O, then turned the face in a lathe, then of to the engravers and the chrome shop. Some years later I puchased one of Orsons , in my opinion for what its worth,
good repros.
Peter B

What sort of price tag are they looking for?

Rob, some else on the list saw the mention and contacted him. The vendor, i understand is going to put the new ones on his own car and sell the ones on it now, I didn’t get involved in prices.

Do youhave ant Ss knock ons at all .
I wouldn.t buy the UK repros

Peter , that’s a lovely restoration. As you will know it can be a lot of work. Because they are steel the face can get very pitted, and MIG is hard stuff to file, grind, polish. One also has to becarefullthat a PO hasn’t used them to remove wheel bearing by hitting the ears outwards and distorting the taper.
At the time a company here was making Jaguar ones for the overseas market and as the machining itself is the same,it was reasonaby economical cast the SS shape in Hi itensile brass. And easier.
There are repros sold in UK , but the SS logo looks like some on has drawn it freehand… badly.
If one had to buy from them ,I’d order them pplain, without logo and have the correct one engraved.
The other issue we found was that the steel was much harder to re engrave and the engravers didn’t exactly welcome the job.
I do have some pantograph templates still somewhere if any one needs to borrow.

Steel, yes that would be inferior. It wasn’t real high on my priority list anyway.
I kind of like the appearance of the polished brass knockoffs/knockons/spinners/wheelnuts/hubcaps/UNDOs against black wire wheels.

Rob the knockons on your car look to be post war jaguar, if so you, being a stickler
to originality, must surely change to the correct items.
Edge profile of a correct knockon.
Peter B.

Yes, they’re post war. I have a theory that the first owner came back from the war, took one look at his car with all those SS markings on it, went “Aaack!”, and removed them everywhere he could, replacing them with Jaguar markings obtained through the local Jaguar dealer. That might explain why the ID plate was missing. The only one he couldn’t do was the engine block.
But your edge profile points out another inferiority. The ears on mine have an angle outboards, making it easier to give them a straight hit with the rubber hammer without the danger of putting a dent in the fender.

Well, I now own an original SS wheel spinner/knockoff/knockon/UNDO.
Just one. It is made of steel.


Unfortunately it’s the wrong size. Thread OD measures about 60 or 61 mm so it is for a Size 42 hub. Must be from an SS-1 or SS-2 perhaps?
My SS Jaguar has Size 52 hubs, thread OD about 72mm.

It’s my own fault of course, following the dictum of Ed to buy a rare part whenever it comes on the market, and not asking the seller to measure the thread diameter, because it was a Buy It Now deal and at $75 I thought I’d better grab it quick.

But it does provide some interesting study material.
I see the metal is very thin where the SS logo was stamped, and it is visible on the back, and a very sharp reverse image.


There was a reverse cut die behind it to make that impression. In other words a pair of stamping dies were used, and they must have been aligned to each other in the die set.
I would think they would have used the same die pair for the Size 52 nuts as well; I wonder if that die pair is still around somewhere.

Also there are some stampings inside the edge, N8J and C8 or C9, perhaps a date code or something.


Angled ears too.

Rob

Yes , from a 1 1/2 litre or SS2 car
I see a lot of 1 1/2 litreparts on ebay. A perinial favourite is for a silver. blue tacho, described as original SS100 . However a close look show sthat the turns marked on the face are 800-1500 not 2-1 as would be needed on a 6 cylinder car
Unless its from the incredibly rare prototype 1 1/2 litre SS100[ a precursor to the XK100.

I very much doubt the tooling would still be around, It would have been scraped for a tax write off or melted down to battleship parts.
These days the repros are , like Jaguar knock ons,made from hi - tensile brass and the SS either moulded in or engraved in
I think I mentioned that the current UK repros have an SS logo that looks like a kindergarten student has drawn it freehand.
And for SS 1 1/2 litre knock ons, one can buy MGB knock ons , new,and have the SS logo engraved. They are cheap to buy. butcome in 2 threads ,so need to be sure which one is buying.

FWIW I have three 52 size steel SS square-eared spinners with the same very sharp double die stamping. Crusty but not too deformed (no jokes about Ed please) :slight_smile: Yours for rounded up postage from DC Metro area

Thanks much, I’ll take you up on that. I’m reformed but not too crusty yet. I’m near Chicago. I’ll contact you off line.