Fuel leak at the firewall/ bell housing

Hi all

So went to take the car out of the garage and discovered a river of fuel flowing down from the firewall / bell housing area, as best I can tell from looking underneath the car at ground level ( that is, the car was not up in the air)

And it was a heavy flow. Not dripping but running. I checked the fuel line connection at the filter and going from filter to carbs and all was dry. Looking at the fuel line layout I see it runs along the bulkhead and makes a turn down to a union.

What might cause such a high volume leak? I don’t see how the connection would loosen, but I suppose that’s possible. It shouldn’t rust through, as my car is a California car with very little signs of corrosion anywhere. So not sure what to even look for.

Any ideas of what might have gone wrong?

The brass union may have cracked and split. Old brass has a Tendency to do that.

Is this a union I am seeing where the line makes the turn to run along the frame rail?

Anything you can tighten can loosen so that is a possibility.

If you’re willing to spill some fuel (catch pan, garage door open, no open flames, fire extinguisher at the ready) the source of the leak should be pretty obvious when the fuel pump is running.

Ok. So I found the problem. The middle carb float turned into a submarine. And pushed the fuel out the overflow, which is angled back towards the firewall.
I’m go into to replace all three floats with the plastic versions. Interesting that XKs floats are about $13 ea where sng wants almost 3 times that amount.

I thought I’d order the XX version unless there is a reason I shouldn’t.

Anyone know why such a big price difference?

Similar to what happened to mine last week. I ordered two new floats from Joe Curto. Problem fixed, car runs great.

I had fuel running into the triangle and down into the air cleaner. The element looked like this through all 360 degrees:

I learned about this on my first day owning the E. Drove it home for the first time and parked in the street while I opened the garage and then did not want to start again a few minutes later. Fuel pouring out of the rear carb. Now the first thing I check if it ever starts missing at idle or have hard start is for fuel overflow from a carb.

68 E-type FHC

When sourcing new replacement floats make sure they are the newest version, resistant to Ethanol laced fuel! Ask before buying!!! May cost a few dollars more but well worth the piece of mind IMHO.

Happy Trails,


Don’t let the Old Man in…

An easy way to stop the flow when a float has sunk is to tap on the float bowl with something like the handle of a plastic screwdriver. Usually it will dislodge whatever is stuck in the valve and allow it to close. At it’s worth a shot.

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I agree. I had the same issue with fuel pouring out of the carb closest to the firewall.
It was stuck open due to tiny debris in the valve.

Hi. Good advice for a stuck valve. Unfortunately this was no stuck valve. The float sunk.

Wonder how long it will take the usual parts suppliers to source these new Solid Epoxy Floats. Here’s an Aviation video by MSA on how they revolutionized their carburetor line making them much safer and reliable. Goals I believe each and every Jaguar owner strives for…Pretty amazing technology. No more leaking, fuel soaked floats!!!

I have used west system epoxy coated corks for replacement of sinking brake, clutch, and fuel sender floats with no sinking for over 20 years. Have never had a sinking fuel bowl float but if I do it will be fixed with either west system or possibly even jb weld.