I searched on line and only found 1/8 in. rolls.
I don’t understand exactly what it is or how it works from the product descriptions.
What does everyone think about 3 M Strip Caulk?
The black buytle rubber stuff? You’ll be cursing the first time you try to remove it. Heat makes it super mushy and it will string up like chewed bubble gum. I didn’t have suitable o-rings handy and rolled that stuff into snakes and put it inside my gauge bezels. Worked great until I needed to remove them and the mess was epic. It took a long time to clean it up.
If you don’t like felt, and don’t want gasket, maybe thin cork?
strip caulk is supposed to be like dum dum…ie never hardening putty like material, or so I am led to believe.
I have go remnants of dum dum like substance on the door panels some one put around the holes in the middle the door. It’s still soft. That’s the kind of thing I think would be good.
I am tempted to use Mortite but I would rather go with an automotive specific substance.
I do want gasket they just don’t list it anymore. And it would have to be quite a thick gasket
maybe this stuff is what you are looking for.
I have part of a roll of Dynaliner (not Dynamat), a foam cell type sound insulation from which I cut strips for this purpose. Sticky on one side and closed cell. Here’s the bottom of my gearbox cover…Jet hotted and modified to provide a positive heat barrier around the shift lever.
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thanks.
description is the same as 3 M stuff
Wow.
I don’t have that tab on the front underside nor do I see evidence of it having been there.
What’s that foam ring under gearshift. I know I didn’t have that when I disassembled .
Here’s my cover fit awful.
and here’s what looks to be like welding beads.
Maybe I should get a new cover?
Probably out of the same factory.
The tab is on the bottom rear. The black ring that looks like foam is a piece of flat plastic that I fabricated. It snaps into the metal cover and then I put a bead of sealant around it. The very soft pliable yellow bellows screws onto that plastic “plate”. The shift mechanism operates inside that bellows. So hot air has nowhere to escape inside the car. That said, I also fabricated this sandwiched “blanket” as a back up heat deflector (I was paranoid about heat in an FHC in Texas). The "blanket is a layer of Dynaliner and a layer of Mylar bubble wrap type material that are glued together. Then there’s the DEI heat shield glued to the inside of the tunnel, It stays so cool have to turn on the heater below 90 degrees outside temperature (I’m kidding).
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Not a bad thing to be!
Your efforts towards heat rejection are some of the best I’ve ever seen.
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It looks like a little hammer and dolly work should remedy the poor fit which I also had to do on mine. I then used the 3M strip caulking which is similar to the Kent stuff. It’s real sticky so after I applied it to the lower tunnel piece I covered it in talcum powder before setting on the upper half of the tunnel. That way you can remove it easily and it forms a great seal. Otherwise you’ll never be able to get it off again.
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There were several different varieties of tunnel cover. Some had screws all around. Mine and Eric’s just have four screws at the front and a catch at the rear to hold the rest of the cover down. I’ve no idea which cars have which, but given that both ours are 64 it seems to reason that the four screw one is correct that yea at least. My car has no holes around the top of the tunnel either matching the cover.
Yes, and the early ones, like Tweetles, had shitty ABS ones. I almost went to a metal one, like Eric, but said f it.
Is everyone using those round, pan head phillips sheet metal screws? What size?
Does that raised round head present any problems after, when you are doing insulation, upholstery and console fitting?
It appears my original screws have been lost to posterity.
Blockquote Is everyone using those round, pan head phillips sheet metal screws? What size?
Bill, I never found an exact slotted pan head screw, but my local hardware had some that were slightly larger with a pan head that I used on the front of the cover, so I could stay with the originals along the sides and rear of the cover. I believe that the screws can indeed create clearance issues, so take care to make them as fully screwed in as you can and as needed I softened the heads a bit with a grinder or files. Even after all my precautions, my center instrument panel won’t drop without hitting the ashtray. I made my legend strip removable, so it can be done now with just two screws removed.
thanks,
I think I will hunt up some flat, straight slotted puppies then.
Looking for other information I stumbled on this
I’m a bit late to this but a reusable gasket can be made by putting packing tape on one surface then applying rtv to the other and joining the two. It will form a perfectly fitting gasket , allow to set, don’t completely tighten ,disassemble remove carpet tape . Bobs your uncle
I used closed cell neoprene foam strips available from McMaster-Carr. I believe they were 1" or so wide and I used 3/8" on the front of the gearbox cover, and 1/4" or 1/8" along the area where the gearbox cover overlaps the body. Used the plain strips and used my own glue. Sealed nicely.
DO NOT USE 3 M strip caulking as I suggested 3 years ago. I recently removed my tunnel cover and it was like black soft chewing gum but stickier. I had a terrible time removing all the caulking from the cover and tunnel. In fact there’s still some there now. Next time I’ll go with a closed cell foam or as Jagjim 1 suggested a silicone caulking temporarily covered in a removable film which I used on the battery cover on my MGB.