The inside of my doors originally had a rectangle of heavy bitumen cardstock glued onto the inside of the outer skin. This was for soundproofing. I replaced it with two squares of B-Quiet, the same stuff marketed as Dynamat, which works much better. The doors have a pleasingly solid sound when they close.
Same here: the subject was the use of a thin plastic sheet, inside the inner door panel, to keep the door card dry.
I used ABS panels, when I replaced the old, warped cardboard panels.
Right. My doors originally had a polyethylene sheet taped to the inner panel followed by the door card, though there may also have been some kind of black sealant used as well. As I said, itâs been awhile.
Geoff, Iâll see if I can dig it up and take some photos.
So if I wanted to put a plastic sheet inside the door which , are now empty save sound deadener:
Would I now hang a sheet over the inside edge a bit and glue that then drape the sheet down the inside?
But I would need to know where the cut outs are for the window crank and door handle so I could make them And even if I knew thatâŚHow do you get the window regulator and window channels, door handles all bolted in with the plastic in the way?
I didnât want to mess with plastic sheets so I cut pieces of sound deadening X-Mat slightly larger than each of the openings in the door and pressed them in place over each of the three large openings in the FHCâs doors. A bit of sealant under all the screw heads took care of everything else.
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Bill;
I do not know if OTS cars would have the plastic. The top of the sheet was fastened by the studs attaching the window to the door.
I will look Sunday or Monday for the plastic.
regards, JoelâŚ
Not sure the relevance of this comment, but my 72 OTS has the plastic sheet in the door. Canât say for sure if it was fastened by the studs attaching the window to the door but for sure the sheet was between the inner panel of the door and the four screws fastening the pivot point.
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Here is a pic of an original drivers side plastic from a S2 OTS. In the drawing I noted the areas where the factory applied glue. Note the top of the plastic folds over and is glued to the top edge of the door where the window frame is mounted with the shims.
Nick,
Another reason Jaguar may have installed the door inner bitumen panels was to stop what is referred to as âOil Canningâ or drumming. Because the length of the door skin airflow would cause the metal to flex ever so slightly due to air pressure that was enough to cause a drumming effect. In aircraft terms itâs called Oil Canning. The same material is found in the rear wheel arch outer skin panels.
Happy Trails,
Dick
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Craig;
My comment was to warn you that I knew little about the cars except my 2+2. I will look for the used plastic and if found I will post.
Regards, JoelâŚ
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I have been struggling with a 67 S1 OTS for a while but completion is approaching. The latest problem was the door cards. This vehicle, owned by my late friend Andy Leavitt had been disassembled for restoration 20-30 years ago and it made several moves in boxes. Also, Andy had frequented salvage yards and auto jumbles, buying parts he might find useful and those were in the same boxes with the original parts. When I assumed responsibility for the re-assembly (volunteer) again this last year, the engine had been rebuilt years ago andt ran well, the body had been painted and thanks to some J-L friends in the Bay Area the lights and other electrical system was working well. The late Jerry Mouton had started the interior installation and Paul Wigton got the tranny installation completed plus anything else no but him was able to do! Ray got the carbs correctly adjusted, Jeff Chew and several other J-L members assisted and we had a great workday under Andyâs watchful eyes. Andyâs advanced Parkinsons relegated him to a chair. The car sat for years after because the widow did not want to do anything about it for understandable reasons. I started a couple of years ago with some help from LLoyd Nolan. The car had an interior kit from Barratt (?) now OSJI. (This is the third interior kit I have installed made by that company and they are terrific. Mike Griffey of OSJI in Muncie has been my hero on all 3 installations and has always been able to provide solid answers easily. The point of this message is to share what I learned about S1 (63, 64, and 67) doors. If you look for door card assy in either Moss or SNG Barrat, you will not find the small plastic cups which are installed in the lower portions of the above door. Knowing the part number, the correct plastic cups can be bought from Moss or SNG Barratt. I was told by one company they were used too keep the door card from rattling.(??) My problem was that the original door card supplied by OSJIâs predecessor company was made of masonite and was way too thick to retain the clips and too thick to bend. Mike Griffey asked me to send it back to Muncie and he would fix it by sanding down the edges and bending it over a table edge. Instead, I received (gratis) beautiful new door cards with clips installed and upholstered. I asked Mike about the plastic cups. He said they were used on the bottom of the door to keep water out. In fact the holes which require the plastic cup are larger in diameter, and that is why the original p/n retainer clips I had been using would not keep the panels tight. I THINK the clips may be different for the holes which use the clips and the holes which donât, although my new cards arrived from Muncie with all clips installed and they fit like a dream.(I have figured this out-the bottom holes are considerably larger because the holes have to accommodate the plastic cups. All the door the clips are the same size though.) I also disassembled the locks sets on an old pair I had and cleaned those up, then lubricated them and was able to make both halves function with a satisfying double click upon being closed.Several of the linkages were also loose and I tightened u the rivets with a vise,punch, and hammer The pass door is now complete except for door gaskets and a final door lock adjustment. My plastic is not installed correctly, but if I have to remove the door card again, I will correct that. Thanks for all the help! Mike Moore
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Great job, Mike.
I was born without imagination so, I donât understand how you can get the plastic inside the door with the mechanical guts already inside nor, do I understand how you could get the mechanicals inside with the plastic already in place.
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âŚI did??
Paulsheimerâs must be getting worse, cuz I remember helping, but not on the trans!
Paul I am so sorry for accusing you! I guess I should have known better. I actually made a list up of who was doing each task and I used that to measure progress back in 2010. I wrote that I had asked that you finish the tranny up, and I did recall seeing you putting the rubber foam insulation around the tranny and later installing the metal cover to hold it in. I also recall us discussing the throwout bearing noise.Somehow the tranny install was completed that day along with a lot of other things and I had assumed it was you I had seen working on it, but itâs been quite a few years.Sorry about that, and thanks to the mystery J-L person who actually did comple the tranny installation in Andy Leavittâs 67 E Type ca. 10 years ago!
Mike Moore
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I have also wondered, That plastic in the photo was clearly installed UNDER the mechanisms It wound due pretty tricky getting an arm on the back side of the plastic in order to ls the door lock and the window crank bodies on place to get the screws started . I was involved (10 feet away from the action) in resigning an OTS door and I briefly thought it would be easier to install everything except the door skin then bond it to the frame-eeegh! Best, Mike Moore
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Never a worry, Mike! I didnât feel slighted in the least!
It has been a long, long time since that at all happened and I canât remember a lot of things, but not being able to remember doing that would wouldâve really worried me!
I did do the transmission lid and helped with the door seals: that was the day it was 115° there, remember?
It works just as well if you bond the plastic to the inner door panel, under the door card.
I used to use this trick, with great ease, and even greater success: spray a light coat of 3M upholstery glue on the inner door panel, then affix Saran wrap to it, ensuring you have a good seal around all the openings.
This link may help with the door vapor barrier. From Jag Lovers forum by Joel Hatchens.
http://www.jag-lovers.org/include/iv3.php3?zx=SdAJyBPwz9TTAQgI%2F%2BSXygTLDAWemckExUM%2BzYwEO9QR9NjL%2FA%2B9PDnZ09MJ%2BBIDlsjNCskJPp6czgvQUwefl8gFzwpGnJnGAscLAMeI0Q%3D%3D.
Cheers