Can any help me…?? What can i do on this leak[water]…is just need a new seal or replace new part??
I’d try replacing the gasket first. Careful with the screws…they can be corroded and strip out.
Part number C2475–Choke Otter switch gasket. SNG Barratt has them for $2.12. Use some non-hardening gasket cement. IMHO.
Yes, those little screws get corroded and you can end up snapping off the hex heads. First soak them with Kroil or another good penetrating oil for at least a day, or a week if you can. Then gently give them some torque, but stay under 30 inch pounds.
I would use Permatex Water Pump and Thermostat Housing sealant.
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The otter can’t leak, it‘ll be the gasket - yes, be v e r y careful with the screws. I didn’t use any sealant.
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Thanks so much to everyone for quickly help…
Let me try it!!!
There’s no point in you making a special order for that gasket. If you PM me with your address I’ll put one in an envelope and mail it to you.
I’ve never been brave enough to try to get those small bolts out though I really do not have any need to. Please report back if you have success and how you did it.
Let me try …and we see8
Give each of the bolts a sharp rap with a hammer which may shock them enough to break the bond between the steel and aluminum.
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O sure…i got a big 
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When I started work as a ‘technician’ with NCR in the 1970s we called them ‘tappametric adjusters’.
All the machines I worked on at the time were mechanical or electo-mechanical - there were electronic macines coming in but in sheepy north Wales we didn’t have any in our patch at that time 
Once you get the screws out with Kroil or Buster R Loose, take them to the local hardware store and match up the pitch and thread and get new ones.
Perhaps a bit of heat from a mini butane or a larger propane torch would loosen things between the dissimilar metals?
Do not reuse the old ones. Give thought to converting the otter switch to an electically activated switch inside the car for better control over the choke. I use the cigar lighter as my choke switch.
Heat is your friend, hot engine and external heat applied to the alloy casting,
You need the bolts cold and the housing hot, if such a thing is possible
How can i do this change …the old to electrical activation inside the car?? Whats i need to do?? Thanks
Don’t do it. Make sure that what you have works.
There are just two wires going to the old unit. Simple wiring procedure. I find that the Ron Francis Unit is MUCH more sensitive to brake activation and subsequent illumination of the brake lights. It does not affect how the brakes themselves operate. Notice the two wires on my car. The slide on bracket came with the unit and I spliced it into the old wires.
Ok…ket me work on thats little screws and we ll see…
Thanks Mike for your kyndness…but i need to order others parts …so I’ll take the opportunity to order some of these gaskets for the future… I appreciate it…
ready…fortunately I was able to remove the 3 screws (2 of them were loose) the other a little tight…but I was afraid that the head would be torn off…but well that’s it and since I couldn’t get the same screws…I changed them for these. …when the gaskets arrive I will put a new one on them…thank you all…for your help…
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