Hi,
On my early XK120 the horn button makes click-clack sound when toggling vertically from side to side, having something broken. Unfortunately I have no idea what exactly is broken. Please advice nad please have a look on the attached photos.
Another fault is intermittent operation of the flashers and horn, so something electrical also u/s.
It sounds like you need to pull the manette (this part contains all the horn button and turn signal controls) and repair the connections for the horn and turn signals. There is a great thread on how to do that but I do not know how to get you the link. However, one small suggestion if you decide to pull the manette out of the car. Once the wires for the horn and turn signals under the left side fender (assuming LH drive) are loose, tape a stout string to the end of the wires. Pull the manette out of the stator tube while feeding extra string through from the under fender side. Do not cut the string until the end of the wire bundle is out of the steering wheel and leave at least 12 inches at both ends. Tie something to each end of the string to prevent accidentally pulling it out. This will make it much easier to pull the wire bundle back down the stator tube inside the steering column once your problem is solved.
Click on this link.
Aside from electrical issues, I don’t believe it is “broken”. The plastic horn push is simply crimped to the brass plate by the 8 lugs to achieve a firm fit. There are two locating nubs molded into the plastic part to locate in the two smaller holes on the plate. On your first picture (blue arrow), it appears someone has put a brass stud/screw to locate this? Also, the two stud plate that attaches by split pins is different from the three stud plate that attaches by nylocs. Your two stud style relied on foam between the brass plate and bakelite ring plate to achieve the “push” function, whereas the three stud used small springs. You appear to be missing the foam. I’m not sure which were correct for which years/models as I believe there was alot of interchangability between MK5/7 and XK. I can also see a broken brass screw that doesn’t belong there in your second photo - maybe this is the rest of the foreign screw in tour first pic.
Dave
Thank you very much for your kind message. The wiring harness is all new, I need to check the ground etc.
Hi, great, thanks again for your quick reply and very good photos, much appreciated. On my manette assy the soldering is missing, need to do it just in case. I had from previous owner’s ownership time, the xk140 steering wheel which I replaced with the original xk120 refurbished and also found used manette for it.
I have also later Manette so need to figure out what is wrong with the horn and turn signal setup. Wiring harness is all new.
Best rgds Hannu
Hi, that is very good news, easy fix, thank you very much. I had no clue of the foam there. The new foam sorts out the problem. The manette I managed to find is old, used, and looks otherwise ok. The click-clack sound was annoying, the early horn button is so near yourself while driving.
Best regards Hannu
Hi Hannu,
I too have two early manettes and a replica that failed after 8 years and ca 5,000 miles of service on my 1950 MKV.
I know how they work and how to take them apart and rebuild.
The most likely causes for such a failure are that the wires are loose inside the manette and making contact or the wiring has scuffed through the insulation. The directional indicators have a negative feed (positive ground) and the horn push connects the ground (positive) to the horn relay which has constant power.
It’s all very simple. 
Cheers!
Ps. Yes, a round piece of ”Sorbo” foam is supposed to be pushing the cone with the Jaguar head out, and pushing it in will connect the horn relay to ground and the horn will blow!
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On our early 1952 FHC the wires were attached by screws. No solder was used. Our horn button, also, had springs instead of foam rubber. One wonders how well foam rubber holds up compared to springs.
Yes, also on my new to me early xk120 manette the wiring is connected with the ring terminals as on attached photo. Wiring harness is new, and the relay is new Lucas branded.
Hi,
Wiring harness is new, and the relay is new Lucas branded. Should be easy fix, but…
Rgds H
Inside the manette the connections are tight. On my repro part the horn (ground / earth) feed got loose inside the manette. As you know, no horn = failed MOT, so I had to fix the old manette to work at least for a while. Next MOT before xmas 2026! 
Cheers!