Strange. Horn’s worked fine last time I used them (months ago). Suddenly don’t. Fuse is fine. Where should I begin looking? I don’t think they are related but my right turn signal won’t stay on. It works when I hold the “arm” up. Mentioned it, just in case there is a link.
First thing to do is raise the bonnet, turn on ignition and try the horn.
Do you hear the relay click? It’s behind the battery.
My hearing isn’t the best but I do not hear anything like a “click”. There appear to be two relays behind the battery. Mounted vertically.
By the way, assuming I have to replace that relay, Moss offers one for $20 whereas SNG wants near $50. Strange.
The upper one is typically the horn (the lower one is the alternator).
Before you replace it you might wiggle the connections a bit. Also, you can sometimes revive one by lightly rapping on it (say with the handle of a screwdriver) while holding the stalk in.
If they are the original metal can type you can even open them up and clean the points.
You can tell I don’t like to buy stuff.
You might as well check the fuses. I think #6 powers the relay though if it is blown a lot of other stuff wouldn’t be working. #3 is the power for the horns but good to check too while the panel is open.
As Geo has indicated, there are two fuses to check, not just one. When it comes to replacing the relay if you need to, beware of the replacements available from some of the usuals. @Michael_Frank posted a while ago about this and indicated his bad experience with some of them - probably worth a read before you make a purchase:
Typically my horns fail between the time I test them in a jcna concours and they work and the arrival of the judges when they now don’t.
As to your turn signal - turn the steering wheel a couple of inches and try again. T he arm works through a small bump in a plastic ring around the column and if the bump and the mechanism in the lever (no words to describe it) are aligned (best word I can think of) the lever is released from its on position. (Need a video to show this)
The SNG relays in the green Lucas box are a good solution. That’s all I’ll say on the subject.
Here is my suggestion.
On my 69 there is a 5 pin connector that all the turn signal stalk wires connect to under the dash
If you take off the underdash cover at the steering wheel you will find it.
When you find it, do the following.
Pull out each connector on each side one by one and push back in before doing the next.
In addition, there is a wire (at least on my car) the comes out of the turn signal bundle and is grounded with a connector and a screw. I think it is the horn ground so do check if this ground is tight
Then test your horn.
Turn signal is an unrelated issue in my view
Thanks for all the great suggestions. I checked the fuses and they are fine. I did discover the problem when I looked more closely at the relay. A wire was disconnected!! I have attached a schematic of what I found. I did find out that the horns work! However, not correctly. When I touch the Brown purple wire to Empty #1 on my diagram, the horn blows continually. The same thing is true if I hook the Brown Purple wire to Empty #2. Strange. Anyone have any thoughts? Could it be caused by a bad relay?
It is also possible that the guys at the paint shop (where the car sat for many months) might have grounded something and caused the horns to go off - stopping them by pulling off the brown-purple wire. If so, I might be in for a long investigation. But the car looks good.
The relay will (should) have markings on it next to each connector spade like C1 and C2
Can you re-send the diagram but add the markings. Then we can suggest what wire goes where.
Good suggestion. I am kind of tied up now and don’t have time to remove battery and pull it off but I do have a couple of (bad) pictures of the back of the relay and labels don’t jump out at me. Attached them for further input…
From what you say, I’d hazard a guess that the wire was removed because the horn was going off continuously. This can happen if the high current through the relay contacts causes them to weld themselves together. If someone leans on the horn continuously this can happen. I think that removing the relay and dressing the contacts is in your future…
That does seem reasonable. But things appear to be more complicated than that Since the purple/black wire goes to the horn button, I disconnected it. When I turned the key on, the horn did not blow. when I jumped what would be W2 on a Lucas (to left when looking at back of relay), the horn blew.
It would appear to me that either the wire is grounded or the horn button mechanism is grounded. the wire goes into a bundle soon after leaving the relay) and the bundle works its way to the dash. I haven’t fooled with the wiring under the dash! I have never removed the horn button mechanism but something tells me I am going to have to remove the steering wheel. Of course, if I do, I can look at what causing the turn signal arm not to “catch” when turning right.
I should have been clearer, when I jumped terminal W2 to ground, the horn blew.
I would suggest that first we check that the right coloured wires are connected to the horn right relay spades which are labelled C1 etc
The steering wheel does not have to be removed to check the turn signal or horn connections in the five wire connector I posted a photo of.
If the horn still sounds after verifying the relay connections are correct, then either the relay contacts are welded shut or there is a path to ground somewhere between the relay contactor connection and the stalk horn push. In my case it was inside the horn stalk push which I had to dismantle as I posted above
Contact me via PM is you would like and I can help with details
Dennis 69 OTS
When my horns stopped working suddenly when pushing in on the stalk it was because the ground wire had broken right where it comes out of the base of the turn signal stalk. My memory is I found the broken wire when I un-clipped the RH side of the shroud around the column. If you check for this and find a similar problem I can report back how I fixed things without removing anything but the column shroud.
68 E-type FHC
Hi. Thanks for taking the time to help. I really don’t think it is the relay. I found an old Lucas horn relay in my garage which was labeled with the proper C1,C2, W1 and W2 posts. I connected them as per directions I found earlier. The same thing happens. Horn blows if I don’t disconnect the purple-brown wire. The odds of having two bad relays is pretty slim (but not impossible). I will try to pull the wires out of the multi connector as you suggest. Can’t do it tomorrow. So it may be a few days.
I just worked on this for my Series 2. I
If the horn blows all the time, may be a bad connection in the horn push button. The switch is delicate but I was able to dissect the button and replace the purple/black wire at the push button connection. It is a delicate procedure to drill out the two crimp indentations on the stalk but the plastic insert will come out enabling access the the wire connection. I had to drill out some sort of potting in the stalk to gain clearance for the repaired contact. All seems to work now.