How do you get the jack under the front?

[davidxk (David Langley)]

@Marco

Obviously the set up is working for you but the edges of the picture frame are probably exerting plenty of shear pressure on the wooden block especially with grain of the wood running parallel with the edges of the picture frame.

I have the same concern. I’ve heard of a case (wish I could remember where exactly) where such an arrangement caused the wood to fail as it split along the grain where the picture frame rests on it. I am also skeptical of the wood blocks sold by one of the usuals which have a “T” shaped cross-section where the leg of the “T” fits in the channel of the picture frame. If the length of the “leg” is less than the depth of the channel, the weight is all supported by the “arms” of the “T” on the edges of the picture frame as with this block. On the other hand, if the length of the “leg” is greater than the depth of the channel, the “arms” of “T” serve no purpose, but give the user a false sense of security about the width of the lifting area, and may result in the pad of the jack not being properly centered on the width of the picture frame with bad results…

[John_Walker (69 FHC. . . $ via PayPal)]

@Marco

I believe the idea of the block is to transfer the weight to the inside of the picture frame to avoid the edges of it and bending them. Obviously the set up is working for you but the edges of the picture frame are probably exerting plenty of shear pressure on the wooden block especially with grain of the wood running parallel with the edges of the picture frame.

When I rebuilt the picture frame, I bonded in a steel “channel” made from two sections of steel angle and a flat that reinforces the bottom of the frame. The legs of each angle reach very slightly below the lower edges of the frame and carry the load.

[ww1robert (Bob Hodgins)]

As per the Factory Service Manual, I use a solid piece of oak cut to fit inside the legs and support the width of the frame. Wood projects 1/2" below bottom of frame.

Note that to ensure continued service, perforated black cable strapping may be used to secure the hardwood block in place, White buttons are recommended

[davidxk (David Langley)]

@John_Walker

The legs of each angle reach very slightly below the lower edges of the frame and carry the load.

That looks like a very nice improvement which overcomes the concern I mentioned above. Very nice!

[davidxk (David Langley)]

@ww1robert

Note that to ensure continued service, perforated black cable strapping may be used to secure the hardwood block in place, White buttons are recommended

Precisely! The buttons on mine are out of sight, but rest assured they are white. The old english white oak (as befits the origin of the car) is stained to match the body colour, of course…

[Marco (Mark)]

Nice.
That would address the concern I posted.

[Ahwahnee (Geo Hahn 1969 Series 2 OTS)]

White buttons for me too and (like yours) stainless steel zip-ties.

The block is T-Shaped and made of a plastic composite ‘wood’.

And, of course, the idiot-proof labelling.

For the rear, this:

The Velcro pairs with a piece glued onto the IRS tie plate.

[Jagjim1 (Jim stunden)]

@ww1robert

Note that to ensure continued service, perforated black cable strapping may be used to secure the hardwood block in place

I laminated my wood block from oak then drilled two 3/16 holes just below the lip out at the ends ,pass two tie straps through and wrap around the picture frame
The straps stay clear of any jack protected
Finished the block with varnish or sealer