How to install accelerator linkage bushing

(Walter Swistak) #1

Trying to figure out how to install this. It has been missing since I got the car. I guess I will need to remove the window wiper motor but then what?

Thanks for any suggestions!


(Andrew Waugh) #2

It’s a while back, but on an SI, you just remove the two screws and the backet comes out. There was just enough angular play that I could get the shaft into the bushing/bracket with the bracket held below (or possibly above or to the side) it’s final resting place, then slid the bracket up into place and refit the fasteners.

(kassaq) #3

I know some people have said they heated it in boiling water to soften it up, then force it into the hole. I got tired of playing with it, and took a razor knife to make a cut through it. (then) starting at one end of the bushing, I fed it in to position like unwinding a snail shell. It takes about a minute to do it after you make a cut, and doesn’t affect the life or performance of it.

(Floats) #4

Hi Guys,
Is it hard rubber or plastic?

(Doug McDougall) #5

Hi Walter
I recall that this procedure was awkward, but doable. I am happy with my replacement, which is an oilite bronze bushing, part no. SF 1016-6, 5/16’’ ID, 1/2’’ OD x 5/16" wide. The cost was less than $2 at a local bearing shop.

I believe the original is hard plastic. Don’t try to use a rubber one.


(Floats) #6

TKS Doug,

(Gary) #7

Two votes for splitting the bushing unless you want to spend the time & effort of removing the linkage, etc. Put a dab of lube on the inner surface and glue the split if you like and you’re good to go. .

(Larry velk) #8

I’d guess Doug’s oilite is best, but if you search a good “Ace” hardware you’ll find stacking 2 plastic bushings also fit very well. They are boxed as computer cable bushings. I have the rubber one from ‘the usuals’ and it looks like a worse solution than my suggestion of the snap in plastic bushes. Getting them in with the linkage assembled is a different story - my car is still all apart. The plastic bushes are a very good fit, quite exact.

(Jerry Mouton) #9

Note that one of the functions of this grommet is to insulate the car body from some engine vibrations. My 3.8 has a serious rubber grommet there, not like this one. But for the oilite and even hard plastic solutions: how much noise will come through?


(Geo Hahn 1969 Series 2 OTS) #10

I used a nylon bushing from Ace and have noticed no noise. But then I thought it was essentially a ‘bearing’ function rather than noise reduction.

(Bob Faster) #11

How about a bronze bushing inside the rubber grommet… works for me.

as for noise… I hear tappets tapping, chains chaining. tires growling, exhaust frapping…
if I could pin point noise from contact thru a throttle rod in a metal bushing I could prove to my wife I am not going deaf…

(Jerry Mouton) #12

Don’t know about you, Bob, but when I put a little pressure on the throttle, all those noises get a lot louder for me, even with the rubber - and - bushing that came with the 3.8.


(Bob Faster) #13

Jerry, I am not arguing it wont, just saying there are so many noises going on, and honestly thats one of the things I like about driving the E. That if that contributes I couldnt tell you if it does or doesnt. In fact I have the original radio in my car that I never listen to. I like to hear all the different noises.

Bob F

(kassaq) #14

Careful, I meant that the bushing is laying flat on a table, then a knife is used to make a cut through the bushing in a ‘radius’ type cut, not through the slot like when you cut a bagel for the toaster. You will still have to access the bushing mount by either taking the linkage out of it, or take the mount off the firewall.

(Larry velk) #15

After my experience with aftermarket parts, I sure would agree any NEW original Jaguar design part is going to work better (except maybe some electric stuff). As we all know now, we need to be happy just to get stuff that we can jamb in there to make the cars complete. Getting proper replacement parts just isn’t in our future. It seems even the simplest stampings are made wrong these days - I have some rusty original stuff that confirms the replacement stuff just isn’t right. I just wish the suppliers would own up to things they must know isn’t up to snuff.

(Les Halls 1968 S1.5 2+2 Atlanta) #16

I can personally verify that at least one supplier, SNG, totally appreciates getting feedback on stuff that’s wrong. But, if you don’t tell them they don’t know!

Now, not all suppliers respond as my experiences with my chosen supplier has demonstrated. And some are downright nasty.

We live and learn in this restoration business!

(Jerry Mouton) #17

Larry, I meant that the completely different 3.8 design uses a rubber + bushing design – not like the 4.2 at all – different part.


(Walter Swistak) #18

This actually worked for me! I did not remove the wiper motor. Just the throttle linkage and cooling hose for access. Loosened the bracket then slipped the cut and lubed rubber bushing in from the front. It took about an hour fiddling with it with a screw driver to work it into place. Thanks for al the help!



I tried heat, oil, …even used a press. Had to finally trim the edge to get it in. I then found out that is one of our suppliers that sells the bracket with the bushing installed. Should have done that…pretty and new.

(kassaq) #20

Hi Walt, I’m glad you were able to get the job done without too much hassle. I did my bushing the same way in both of my E-types some years ago. Glad to pass along a ‘been there done that’ kind of thing