You are correct Doug, that was one of the first things I noticed. But
The box did have the Made in USA stamped on it. They had ordered the heat sink part but they charged more for it but I took it anyway as not a bad idea. The more I look at it I’m wondering if it’s the correct coverage as Kirby mentioned. I’m thinking from the hole pattern it looks as though, you smear the grease on the module and attach it directly to the heat seat. Which obviously won’t work in our factory amplifier case. It must be since the module is designed to be used for a broad range of GM models.
I think this is the intended arrangement
Cheers
DD
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That’s it! Doug you’re a genius.
You know , I know I’m sounding like a broken here but I can’t believe what this module has done for the car!
I bought this car in 2007 and I feel like it’s just got a heart transplant. I knew there was something amiss from the stumble in the idle and just not feeling like a V-12 I had hope for (or dreamed about owning) . I’m amazed about the smooth acceleration and nice idle now. If anyone on JL’s wants my two cents and feel there car is sluggish, check out your module.
End of my rant.
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Shows you how they can slowly deteriorate. At only $40, i bought a second one which i keep in glove box for emergency, and I’m thinking of rotating/replacing every five years just because.
That’s great…if you remember to also bring along the tiny sockets needed to open up the amplifier 
What I’ve always intended (ha ha) to do is buy a used amplifier and refurbish it, and carry that as a spare. By the side of the road it’ll be easier to swap-out the complete amp than changing just the module.
Cheers
DD
I keep the necessary tools, just need three sockets and 1/4" ratchet. I actually did it in parking lot last year when i was experimenting with non-GM modules. Only took 15 minutes. I went right back to GM.
Not a bad idea, only need main socket, no paste.
If you turn back the hands of time and remember how a car ran with worn out ignition points, well, just replace “points” with “module”…as they serve the same function.
So, your experience is very plausible.
It’s just that we’re accustomed to modules failing more dramatically rather than slowly degrading
Cheers
DD
That’s what I did. (AB14 backup. The easy way.) No tools required.
I guess you could just mount two of them on the intake manifold, one on top of the other. That way when one gives you lip, you can just swap some plugs around.
Or put the spare on “A” bank intake!
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You might have to lengthen some wires to reach that. Or bring along a wrench to swap them.
The side bar I never really experienced or expected was the drop on the temperature gauge. Once again hot weather, hard run and just seems to stay down.
As a side bar (sort of XJ-S related) I don’t go to the pub or whatever anymore, apparently England won a football game today! ( I’m just posting that for my Grandfather who was in the Royal Marines) Horse racing and Jaguars were his specialty.
Celsius or Fahrenheit… Seems that 117 c would be very high temperature
I agree, it’s seems hot to me as well. It’s in Celsius.
It jumped to 92C within a minute went to 104C in about three minutes and seemed to peak at 117C at the five minute point at idle in my garage (no influence by sun heat).
What I didn’t do was take more measures after a hard run to find out the cooling contribution from the air intakes. I’m going to measure again to confirm the readings at the same time intervals.
I’m hoping someone on this forum can to the same for comparison.
Not sure exactly what’s even in an ignition module but if it’s called an electronic type device they don’t usually like heat much more than 40C so I’m assuming they are not that sophisticated like an IPhone for example.
I’m also wondering if the age of my coils are causing the ignition module to pull too much current.
I should replace anyway, they’re likely the same ones that left the factory in the car. Probably a good opportunity to go to the single coil setup.
Exactly !! Points wear, dwell changes. I suppose the same thing takes place in th electronic device.
Racers were entranced with MSD, an elctroinc ignition. but, like all others, heat sensitive. Mounted in the cabin. Not one, but two!!! A switch to quickly go to the alternate, if the primary failed.
Knock, knock !!! My LT has a similar device. Mounted on the left head. Heat sink and paste as well… So far, so good… I have a spare somewhere !!!
Carl
After short drive I let engine continue to run… 68-70 degrees c on top of amplifier… Original 88 with 46000 miles… Don’t know but seems to run well…
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Just as an epilogue to this story, added the heat sink,. I sort of cleaned up the wiring module connection point, made up a new rubber boot with liquid electrical heat shrink and the temperature didn’t seem to rise anymore than 53 C .
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That’s more like it!
20 char
OK Kirby, I just got the call from my local Jaguar dealership. In my quest for the proper smooth
V-12 ignition, spark plugs and coil business operations. In the book I’m trying the single coil set up? Is this an upgrade, noticeable improvement sort of thing or as Roger Bywater maybe suggests (might be incorrect for my misinterpretation) just a more reliable setup?
Just throwing it out there? Should I see any noticeable difference or just make it more reliable?
