The inlet manifold on a Jaguar e type 3.8L is very expensive to buy now days and the alternative is to change a inlet manifold from a Mark X. To change that I cut out 14mm material and with heat change the angel, searching for a welding machine on the Net, I fund a welder.
Fix them for me, but is it the right way to do it ?
Frank.
Now that you have the angle at the flange by the engine, do you plan to adjust the angle at the carbs so they sit correctly also?
Yes, of course, can make a piece of Alu or soft material distance piece and adjust the angle of the carbs to. There is however a problem with bolts they do have the right angle too, that’s why this Topic.
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Can’t some backyard nut cast them and have them machined if they are THAT expensive? If there’s so much money in it - I don’t have the right kind of backyard, else I would make a pattern and have a go. Welding, making a distance piece and redrilling and inserting for the new stud orientation is certainly much more more trouble and less fun then casting a dozen and having them machined somewhere.
Are the coolant passages cut as well?
David, those distant pieces are very expensive $ 1500 and this inlet manifold only 120 euro’s, but maybe there are more Jaglovers who will profit from this topic.
Yes the coolant passages were cut too, but they are welded back, no problem.
For the bolts, I can use special washers, so do not have change the angle, try to make a special distant piece between the carbs and inlet manifold.
Only thing now is, is the angle enough to clear the bonnet, I have only 2 and a halve centimeter from the top of the engine.
Frank.
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The other critical measurement is clearance between the front carb float bowl and the diagonal top frame tube. With brand new uncompressed engine mounts there is just enough clearance to slip your finger tip between them. If it crashes the tube it will dent the frame badly.
I think this is a valiant effort, but it’s going to end up looking pretty goofy by the end. What about the water rails? What about the throttle linkage? It’s also going to shorten them. That will affect the air cleaner connection. Will it effect the flow characteristics? A lot of puzzles left to solve.
Is there a reason you must use 3.8 manifolds? The big 4.2 manifold is reproduced if you can’t find a good used one. You’d need to make some changes to the throttle I guess. It may still end up being a cheaper route.
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Hi Erica, so there is a little clearance between the front carb float bowl and the diagonal top frame tube when the engine is in the car, I will consider this.
The water rails are not a problem at all, fits nicely. The flow characteristics is the same. I do have a big manifold, but it also MkX, so cannot use it, I think, no sure.
Thanks for your detail answer.
Frank.
So I have to make a special distance piece from Alu.
Martin, don’t have that kind of money and it is ridiculous what some people ask for the old stuff.
Frank.
Greetings All,
Sure you could cast them.
How many actually are willing to pay versus just coveting them is a big reason.
The market isn’t there, period. At least not enough to monetize casting them versus a used set.
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I wonder how much it would cost to 3D print a set? A machine big enough to print these only costs about 5 grand now.
Where are you getting a 3D printer that could print a usable intake manifold for only 5 grand? I know of NO machine of that size that can print anything but plastic filament, which is in no way suitable for an intake manifold.
Regards,
Ray L.
This might not be quite big enough but it printed a piston.
https://www.3dnatives.com/en/iro3d-lowers-cost-3d-metal-printing-machine-271120185/#!
Was that piston actually run in a test engine?
Best technology, but i remain skeptical wrt its use for high stress parts like a piston.
I know that Ford and others used powdered metal processes for con rods, but have no idea of the process.
I doubt it, but an intake manifold isn’t subjected to the abuse a piston is. Jay Leno has had a bunch of unobtanium parts printed.
Oh, yea, I know that. I was just simply saying that printing a piston, as an example, is kind of a red herring, for the printer maker.
A manifold, especially a multi-parter like a 3.8? That looks very promising!
Particularly a red herring given that the machine, at present, prints only in carbon steel. That would be one HEAVY piston. And, of course, requires a 1250C kiln for fusing the powdered metal.
It’s a very interesting machine, but I doubt it could, at present, handle the size of the 3.8 manifolds, steel is a less-than ideal material, and print quality is an issue, even on the manufacturers demo pieces. Still, impressive for the money.
Watching a few videos on it, I suspect yield might be low, as well as precision. A lot of machining and clean-up would be required after printing. The demo piece the manufacturer provided to one reviewer had a number of voids, and other slicing and printing errors. But, give it 5 more years, they’ll probably be all sorted out, selling for $250 on EBay!
Regards,
Ray L.
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If it were me, I would weld those adapter plates to the intake manifold. So that you can weld up and redrill the bolt holes that mount carbs. If you don’t do that, you will have bolts that are angled down and may be a problem later on. Just having angled/wedge plates won’t fix the bolt angle, but welding up and redrilling will. Have you measured or checked to be sure you have enough drop in height to clear the bonnet? not an easy thing to measure.
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I wonder if someone here might be able to help…