Inlet manifold studs

(cippusu) #1

Good day

in an attempt to replace the valve cover gaskets on a E Type S3 2+2, had to removed the inlet manifold and do not believe the stud holding them in place are correct (see pics below)

to be noted that the bolt with Allen head are toot short and the thread is not screwing in. Seems to me they are just there to close the holes somehow also seen the red sealant used. What is supposed to be there instead ? According to the part catalogue there are only two studs holding the manifold in place but according to other catalogue online there are three…am lost.

Any help is highly appreciated.

Many tks


(John) #2

Someone before you removed air injection system and plugged the holes with those srews. Quite common thing to do on these engines.


(John) #3

More about the air rails that where removed from your engine:


(Kirbert - author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.) #4

That doesn’t look like a good way to plug those holes. Looks like it might keep the items from assembling correctly.


(cippusu) #5

Tks Guys. So have to figure out the proper way to plug the holes.


(JimD in Alabama) #6

Cippissu – from page 314 of Kirby Palm’s “Experience in a Book” (can be downloaded on this website or just used interactively) i copy and paste

John Napoli offers a suggestion for plugging the air injection holes in the intake manifold: “Buy 1/4” nail anchors from Home Depot. They are aluminum and look like a large pop rivet. Get them 1” long. Cut them back to 5/8” long with a band saw or hack saw (only cut the body, don’t worry about the ‘nail’). Put the two o-rings from each air tube on the shank of the anchor. Smear on some engine-grade silicone. Insert into the manifold and hammer down the nail all the way. Omit the ‘plates’ and retighten the intake manifold to the engine. Looks great and works great.” This mod is likely to require an extra washer or two on each stud, since the studs may not be threaded far enough to tighten the nuts down on the manifold flange with the plates omitted.
Napoli: “Here is the info on the nail anchors I used – the ones I got at Home Depot: Star Anchors and Specialty Fasteners
1/4" by 1"
2615-32178 (part number)
31916 26096 (number under bar code)
“This is for a box of 40. Enough for 3 V12s and 1 Opel Kadette.”
Michael Aiken’s local Home Depot apparently carries similar anchors in a different package: ““Red Head” light-duty anchors. They are 1/4" x 1" hammer-set anchors used for anchoring to concrete.
They are easy to install just as John says. They come in a package of 14 – perfect for a V12 as long as you don’t screw up more than two. I have two spares. The part number is 11234. They are in the fasteners dept.”

An addendum to Napoli’s idea: While Home Depot only carries 1” anchors, 3/4” long
hammer drive anchors are available at some other hardware stores, usually in the bin right next to the 1” ones. Since the flange on the intake manifold is about 7/8” thick, these anchors can be used without cutting them shorter. If you set about removing pump, valving, plumbing, and rails with the engine in the car, you will find it very difficult indeed to remove the pipe that goes from right behind the air pump along the bottom right side of the engine and emerges behind the turntable. Some have resorted to ripping this pipe to pieces to get it out. The easiest solution is to simply leave it there. If you ever have the right side exhaust manifolds off for some reason, you can remove it then.

I believe there are also some past entries/dialogues on this forum or the XJS forum on the subject. I don’t think there is a “proper” but there are definitely some doable good ideas


(Don Franke) #7

This is a picture of the aluminum 1/4 inch anchors mentioned installed.

Hope this helps.


(cippusu) #8

It does indeed. Many tks. Have to find out something similar here in Europe.

Tks again


(Robert King) #9

How about lead shot? Find some slightly larger than hole and tap in place with a punch.