The stock Jaguar PN for the needle bearing is C17167. Does anyone know what is the SKF/NSK or similar part number?
thank you in advance,
-albert
The illustration on the SNGB web page shows a KOYO B-146 which is a Drawn Cup Needle Roller Bearing - Open Ends with Full Complement, 7/8 in Bore, 1-1/8 in OD, 3/8 in Width, which sounds correct. You can probably look that up in a bearing cross-reference table.
David, I don’t know how you do it, but you always seem to have the answers.
Mr. Terry Sturgeon and others have presented a few alternatives to the OE needle bearings. I’d like to see what loads the OE bearings were rated for and then compare them to the nylon, bronze, “Oilless”, and IGUS varieties.
Thank you again,
-Albert
If you end up staying with the OE needle bearing solution pay close attention the to the inner bearing race lengths and material. I could not find proper ones from the usual E-type suppliers so I had some hardened bearings custom cut to length. Some detail in this thread - Inner fulcrum bearing tubes - new discovery
FWIW, the original needle rollers were Torrington T146. Same size as David lists above. I remember that those were impossible to find years ago too.
Edit: I’ve been advised by another lister that the Torrington number was B146.
Hello E-Type friends,
I would like to share with you an alternative to the needle roller bearings as used on the inner fulcrum. There are at least three options for rebuilding the bearing set: OEM, Bronze aftermarket bushings (credit to Terry Sturgeon), iGlide bushings. This article is about the third option.
The ingredients are:
iGlide G300 0.875 x .625 bushing with flange
X-Ring PN 400-220 Quattro Seal from McMaster Carr (to replace standard O-ring)
Steel tubing (Spacer), 4130 round 1.125 OD x 0.995ID (0.065” wall) cut to 0.90” long. I purchased 12” via e-bay for $45.
What is the purpose? I simply find the iGlide bearings to be a cleaner installation compared to the caged needle roller bearings. For the record, the dynamic load capacity of the plastic bearings is about 5% lower than the needle roller bearings. The upside is the plastic bearings are probably more forgiving and well suited to the harsh environment of the suspension.
The steel tubing acts as a sacrificial spacer should the iGlide bearing accumulate any grit, thereby saving the cast wishbone from damage. The tubing presses into the wishbone with zero clearance. The iGlide bearings are pressed in next.
With the spacer pressed into the wishbone, the iGlide bearings are pressed in next.
Remove the zerk fitting. Drill through to allow grease to enter the bearing area.
The inner washer C17166 is deleted.
The O-ring is replaced with an X-ring. Ideally, the ID clearance between the X-ring and the bearing flange would be reduced. I don’t like the sloppy fit.
Add the outer washer PN C17165. The same is repeated for the rest of the assembly.
Reasonable?
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When applying grease to these type of bearings , can I use a general purpose grease ( also for wheel bearings + front suspension ) ?
Thanks - just bought myself a grease gun and have never done this before .
Hello Mark, I’m definitely not an expert on grease types. I too plan to use a standard wheel bearing grease for these plastic bearings.
The bearing material looks like Delrin a polymer that is easily machined, and often used for bearings. It is said to be self lubricating, but it will also accept any type of automobile grease.