Is there a written procedure anywhere for installing a Series 1 (3.8l) XKE manifold on a Series 2 (4.2l) XKE head?
I know there is some issue with the water jacket and freeze plugs, but if I had a procedure and an idea of the problems, I think it will be do-able. I have the complete set-up including manifolds and rebuilt carbs, but I don’t know about the linkages, etc.
Bob Hardison
Hi Bob, I recently did this, and many others here have as well. It’s really pretty straight ahead. You will want the stat housing from your old stromberg set, a vacuum advance distributor. Most people use the 4.2 manifold.
Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately, I have the 3.8 manifold, and would like to not buy the 4.2 version. The current distributor is running sweet, so I’ll have to think about changing that, unless it fouls the carbs someway.
I’m sure someone will jump in shortly that has made that swap. The series 2 distributor, was a vacuum retard, and is not suitable for use with the SU. The search function is a goldmine as well
Hi Bob,
I did this to my S 1.5 some years back and it was pretty straight forward but the details are lost in the haze of time. Some folks think the 3.8 setup was superior to the later 4.2 with better air flow and the linkage is on top so doesn’t foul the frame rails.
I had to modify my linkage some what but the parts were readily available, oh wait, John Farrell isn’t around anymore-dang! You’ll have to see if the usuals have them and I’m sure someone picked up John’s line of stuff-I hope.
The choke will require some fiddling, I took the dash top off and replaced the cable with a length of music wire from Home Depot to give a positive closure as per OEM.
I’m pretty sure I had to plug a couple hole in the head with ‘freeze out’ plugs but the right size was readily available from NAPA.
I think you’ll find it pretty self evident once you start with no major challenges.
Cheers,
LLynn
Hi Bob
If you go to the SNG web site to “Find Parts”, click on the 3.8l E Types, then “engines” under the drop down menu on the left, then to “accelerator controls”, or “choke connecting rods” you will see very complete diagrams of everything you need for both throttle and choke, at least as regards the engine side. I didn’t look but the choke controls may be under body fittings?
Bob, your Lucas distributor may be performing to spec, but the advance curve is all wrong for performance. Its an emissions curve. To really enjoy your expensive carbs you’ll need to emulate a Series 1 mechanical advance curve. Adding vacuum advance will gain you MPG’s while cruising.
What distributor is in your car? What year car?
I bought freeze plugs at Napa for the head. I don’t remember size, so just measure with calipers. Clean the contact area n the head, put some sealer on the plug, tap the outer circumference in flush with a socket. Pretty straight forward.
Set your choke linkage (that is jet drop at full choke) on the bench. Its difficult when on the car. Little cleviis parts & tiny cotter pins. Adjust the linkage to drop the jet about .200" at full choke in all carbs. I used the Stromberg choke cable to actuate.
Since I have the 68 that does not have a vacuum advance / vacuum retard distributor is it best to find a 41060 vacuum advance type ? So far the places I have looked at seem to want a core back which of course I do not have. I have mainly been shopping for a rebuilt or used one to refurbish since I want to put a Pertronix module into it but so far used ones look quite rare to buy.
Also since I am not swapping carbs anyone know if the little copper line in the photo below a suitable place to tee into for a vacuum advance source or do I have to tap in on the carb ?
David
68 E-type FHC
David,
I have an early 69 with the same setup as your 68. I put a T in that vacuum line to get a vacuum source when I replaced my distributor (no vacuum module) with an electronic 123 TUNE+ distributor. However, that vacuum source is Manifold vacuum, not Ported vacuum. To get the original Ported vacuum source you need to drill into a pre-tapped port in the carb and add a fitting there. @John_Walker documented this a while back on the forum, so you should be able to find details. In my case, I could compensate for using Manifold vacuum, as the 123 distributor allows me to configure the vacuum-advance curve as well as set a RPM point below which no vacuum advance is programmed. I put in a curve with no advance at very high vacuum (as seen at idle), and a RPM cut off of 700rpm below which no vacuum advance should be applied - i.e. belt and braces.
-David
David, thanks for the reply. The car is a '69 OTS, with the standard distributor, but with an electronic module installed. It may be a Pertronix but I don’t know where to look to see. It does have what I assume to be a heat sink mounted on the rail near the dizzy. I can send a picture if needed. If you believe a different dizzy will improve it, I’d be willing to do that.
I have put a Mallory dual point distributor in another car, but while it starts and runs easily, it don’t feel the power I think it should give. Where can I find out about these 123 distributors?
Bob, you can google 123 distributors. The advantage is that you can choose from of a variety of advance curves. They are expensive compared to say a new Pertronix distributor from the usuals. With Pertronix you get the S-1 curve and you’re done.
So your 69 distributor set to spec (5 deg btdc) is all in at 45 deg. That’s a lot. So what’s the problem? Well, it comes in very slowly from idle to 3500rpm. That saps low end torque but lowers your emissions. Jag changed the distributors after the no vacuum version. They eventually realized the issue. I’d like a ride in a richened Stromberg E type with a “proper advance curve”. I be it would be quick. Maybe run out of air at higher R’s, but to 3500 it might get the business done???
My 2 cents…
I know this is an old thread but I have a question. I have a 1968 Series 1.5 with twin ZS carbs. There’s a hose running from the port on the ZS carb to the manifold similar to the picture above posted by D_Barnes. The original distributor does not have a vacuum advance mechanism. I’ve installed a 123 distributor which is currently set to curve 3. It has a vacuum port on it but I don’t have a vacuum line running to it. I didn’t think I needed one because the advance curves are built into the distributor. Is my understanding correct? Is curve 3 a good choice for the distributor?
Thanks for your help.
Rich
The advance curves “built into the distributor” are what is commonly referred to as “centrifugal advance” or “mechanical advance”. They determine the ignition advance as a function of the engine rpm. Vacuum advance, when used, is in addition to centrifugal advance and is a function of the level of vacuum in the intake manifold or at the carburetor throttle plate. If you wished you could connect the vacuum port on your 123 distributor to a source of “ported vacuum” (see earlier posts in this thread on how to do this) or leave it unconnected. The benefits of vacuum advance are limited to a reduction in fuel consumption when the engine is lightly loaded.
Which is most of the time you’re on a steady cruise at 60MPH. With the price of gas these days it’s worth having the vacuum advance work.
I went around and around on this when I installed my 123 with triple SU’s on an S2. After much patient explaining from the august group here, I chose to utilize the vacuum source from the SU. I get pretty damn good mileage…
