Instrument cluster change out

Can you change out the the original instrument cluster with the barrel gauges with a later model with the round gauges ??? I know there are some pin differences but has anyone done this here ??? I have an '89

Yup, did just that back in August of 2011 to the '89 XJS coupe that the wife had at the time.

See Attachment:

XJS 89 to 94 Cluster Crossover.pdf (8.8 KB)


Change out to newer cluster was the 2nd best thing I ever did to my 90 XJ-S. Now I can see everything in the cluster. Thanks to Lockheed1 for his help.
1st was removing the baffle in the radiator and installing a clear glass boiler tube for a cross over to the right side inlet. Now, I can see if the antifreeze is low when I pop the bonnet. Third was installing an electric fan. Go for it.

Cool! Where’d you get it? And does it have any nifty markings on it?

But don’t you miss reading your barrel gauges knowing that the true coolant temperature and oil pressure are quite different? :wink:

I actually like the look of the barrel gauges dashboard, very ‘different’, but I installed actual oil pressure and dual temp gauges elsewhere so I can know what’s really going on.

Show us a picture of the site glass

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No, don’t! Or else Dave The Limey may ditch his whole copper setup!


Btw check out this

drawing from my parts book on fan replacement post… Different fan

Don’t know if there was an inference there that the Facelift Temp and oil pressure readings are “fixed” values. They are not, when used with the correct temp and oil pressure senders. As far as I know, the temp senders have always varied with the temp., but it is true that Jaguar did use a fixed value oil pressure sensor on the V12 to quell the complaints of very low oil pressure indications with the V12 at operating temperature and at idle. I guess their cover was that the Red low oil pressure light would come on if the oil pressure was really too low. There are no problems with any of the Facelift Cluster indications as long as the proper sending units are used.

Yeah, that’s the very early metal fan. And the fan clutch that mounts with a single bolt in the front.

I will have photos of the boiler glass tube and set up tomorrow. Pardon the delay. I believe there is a full write up with photos somewhere in the history. Regarding the electric fan I installed. Works great and I have only had to replace it once. It was still working but I thought the bearings were getting noisy. I purchased a regular fan at Advance. Also available at all the other auto stores. The manufacturer offered 2 models and I chose the higher volume flow. It was mentioned on the forum that these fans did not work well but I have found them to be excellent. The fan finger cover has lots of plastic bars which reduce the air flow. I chose to use a pair of wire cutters and removed most of these cross bars. Then placed the fan on the shroud using 4 or 5 screws. Then, took spray foam insulation from Lowes or Home Depot and filled in the 1 inch gap around the outside. A knife will cut the foam easily and make the project look store bought. When I thought the bearings started to fail, I simple unbolted the fan shroud and lifted the unit out. I unbolted the fan motor and switched the motor and blade. There was no need to remove the housing or mess with the foam insulation. It is a neat installation and easy to service. By the way, I never got around to installing a temperature switch so the fan runs all the time the engine is running. With a light up switch on the dash I can run the fan for a time after stopping from long hard trips or turn it off to help with warm up. The thermostats do the rest. Time for project after getting home with the new fan: 2+ hours due to removing the old fan assembly. Time for changing out the replacement motor: 30 minutes. The first motor lasted about 6 thousand miles. No problem with heat on Southern Summer Days with temperatures hitting 100+ f, humidity stiffling and traffic stopped for an hour. Also, doing some other work on the front mainshaft pulley, I never reinstalled the rubber air dam on the bottom of the radiator. No problem and it works great. Also, no problem with leaves plugging up the works but best to check it every year.
Cost: probably about a hundred dollars. I do not use the air pump so no problem and also removed it. Pollution check not a problem in my State due to age. I don’t remember if this would cause a belt problem but it got rid of a lot of hardware. If you look at the front of the engine it does not appear to have anything missing on inspection.

Found 3 photos. Green Boiler tube and rubber hoses. I think you can purchase any length or thickness of boiler site tubes at an industrial supply company. I prefer to look at what I am buying rather than order over the internet. I can not remember where I got this one. They are rated for hot water and pressure. My choice was to meet the diameter of the new water hoses. On the right side where the two hoses flow into the radiator: I used a standard copper T tube from the plumbing department and had the radiator shop weld it to the radiator when they removed, cleaned and pressure tested the radiator. It is necessary to select the correct angle for things to fit and also not too close to the radiator. The radiator housing is copper so no problem with electrolysis. had to have it done a second time because of clearance for hose clamp. I would guess the boiler tube cost around $30. Very common item with boilers. The T tube probably cost $2 and the radiator repair company charged $130.00 for the work . Next photo shows the bleeder valve to let air out while filling fluid. (This is the valve used for connecting a refrigerator to a water line for ice cubes. Plating was not well done as it is usually stuck behind the refrigerator-ice box for us Southerners ). It must be placed in the highest point in the system. Use caution when installing a bleed valve. Make sure it is not sticking up too tall and hitting/denting bonnet.If you want the metal parts to stay bright you can spray with clear enamel paint or just paint them. This valve requires 6 or 7 turns to open. I will change out this valve with new when the weather gets warmer. It has been on for many years. 3rd photo shows the electric fan. Red and black wires are for hooking up the fan to power from one of the hot wires under the dash and feeding through the firewall. Be sure to install an inline fuse or tap onto an existing fuze with reserve current. Never a reason to remove a radiator cap unless you see air in the boiler tube. This valve has a nipple for connecting to a rubber hose. Highly recommended to let it stick out an inch or 2 in order to keep water from dripping onto a fan belt when bleeding…I just let mine scream for 10 seconds or so.

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Forgot to say…I had the radiator repair company remove the separator baffle when they worked on the radiator. They un-soldered the radiator, removed the baffle and welded in the new tube all at the same time.
Consideration should be taken to make sure the radiator does not toucht the steel frame. Copper/steel electrolysis will eat up your radiator. There are original rubber spacers on the bottom of the radiator but probably in bad condition. find something new. All water goes in the top right and out the bottom left.

Thanks to the person that fixed the problem my computer had with the Jag Lovers site. Things seem to work quite well. We will see if I get blocked out next time.

How did this tread get HIJACKED?

??? Don’t understand… I’ve been doing other things … Anyone else respond… All’s good here…