I have been fixing oil leak from this area. When I screw the assembly together, should there be a gasket or o-ring where I have drawn the arrow on the photo? This would stop oil that has leaked past the output shaft drive seal from dripping down.
Thanks
Dennis 69 OTS
None, that I am aware of: a thin smear of RTV would help.
I’ve tried it with less than spectacular success but it’s a simple thing to try. I do not believe that it came with one in this position, there are two other seals that are supposed to prevent leakage at this fitting, one is a small lip seal and then there is a small ‘o’ ring on the shaft. If those are bad replacing them will help.
Cheers,
Lynn
would replacing the o ring that you do see in the pic help?
teflon tape on the threads?
Sidebar on this topic:
Next project, I am going to look into my stuttering speedometer. In gathering info and reading up.
On my American cars there is a plastic gear in the box that periodically fails. What is the mating gear to the one shown in your picture? Is it known to fail? Can this gear shaft be removed from the gearbox (via access hole in tunnel) while the gearbox is still installed in the car?
Thanks,
Bob t
I found the o-ring on the housing one inserts into the transmission is too small and has no interference when one pushes the house in.
I bought it from one of the usuals!
Stuttering speedo is usually the cable and if so I have found the only solution is to replace the inner and outer cable.
If the speedo stops completely, it is usually the angle output drive failing
Just had stuttering issue. After research was prepared to remove cable and lube. Found trip odometer was near max and not rotating. Was able to work reset to free, no more stutter. Probably a rare occurrence but worth a check. Good luck!
That is not the one.
It looks like there is still a seal in there and held in by the metal retainer that has been pressed in. That might be the original seal !
Seal is still in place. Picture may better show. SNG sells to seals. Yours is listed as original style and the picture shows after market. Both should be fine. I used a metal pick to pierce and pull out the seal. It’s actually easier to do if you pull the unit out.
Got my speedometer fixed! I had to tighten the nut on the tail of the gearbox. Involves tearing up the interior. 
all back together now.
I ran the car past one of those speed checker signs. Its spot-on for speed and rock steady.
The nut wasn’t even finger tight. Held on by the cotter pin!
Holy cow. Who rebuilt the gear box?
It wasn’t rebuilt, but simply lubed and installed. I put the nut on there myself 4 years ago. Nut was tightened up while the gearbox was still on a skid. I imagine that over running time the parts “stackup” closed up and what was originally tight got loose.
Hello Bob,
Notwithstanding that no reference is made to how tight this nut should be in any Jaguar Workshop Manual, with many thinking that as long as the split pin will assemble, all will be right, this is not the case. Its not only the speedo drive gear that is driven by friction alone (no key-way, of drive peg), but also the Gearbox Oil Pump.
The following picture is of the correct Rear Bearing that the Oil Pump Drive Sleeve makes contact with. Note the width of the skid mark on the face of the Inner Race, indicating that the Oil Pump Drive Sleeve has been slipping; this is approximately the same as the wall thickness of the Oil Pump Drive Sleeve.
The above bearing, with the infinitesimal radius, or chamfer between the face and bore of the Inner Race, is no longer available. The following picture show a bearing that is typical of that supplied by the usuals.
You will note that the Radius between the face and bore of the Inner Race is similar width of the wear band on the face of the correct bearing. In fact, the width of the contact band of this bearing with the Oil Pump Drive Sleeve is only around 0.5mm. Generally, the force due to friction is independent of Surface Area contact between two surfaces, but this relationship breaks down because the comprehensive force acting on the small face contact with the Oil Pump Drive Sleeve starts to deform the contact area, giving rise to the potential of the two faces to slide. Once slipping starts, the progression is rapid until there is practically no frictional force to drive either the Oil Pump, or the Speed Drive Gear.
Therefore, its rather important that the Companion Flange Nut be torque to something close to the correct torque for the Thread Diameter, with the split pin used to ensure that the nut doesn’t undo.
Regards,
Bill
