Is originality still important?

Well-stated, and your last sentence is spot-on.

It would have to be entered in the “Enjoyment Class”


Excellent points, particularly those made in your second paragraph. I addition, the photos of this car posted on the BaT auction website were stunning, the car was absolutely immaculate which I am sure played a large part in driving the bids higher.


I have a point no-one has mentioned yet. Besides autos I love old tractors. I went to a tractor show with an old friend of mine who grew on Ford 9 and 8N’s and I guess you could say he had an affinity for them. At the show was a Ford 8N tractor with a 327 Chev as the propulsion unit. My friend could not resist asking "why did you put a Chevy engine in a perfectly functional Ford?

The answer was “to piss off the purists” To each his own!

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He’d likely like this crazy Swede: sure makes plowing fun!

I saw this as well and was quite surprised.

I was even more surprised by:

  • sandblasting the nuts and bolts (it does ruin them)
  • not mounting the original tribars (the ones on the car have nothing to do with the car
  • stainless bumpers… Oh god, there are so many good steel replicas now available
  • purchase of these Willwood pedals - 5% of the car price!!
    and few other bits that seemed weird…


How does that “ruin” a fastener?


The sand blasted nut or bolt will never have the same surface as one cleaned by wire brush or chemically.


That’s different than “ruined.”

“Ruined” implies “unsafe for use.” Then again, I can care less about “factory” finish.

Not for me, but then I am not a native speaker, so you must be right :wink:

I would say that if you are sandblasting them they are already not show car material. Not much to loose. I usually usually use glass beads or walnut shells to really clean something.

Here’s why I think they might be saying its ruined.Properly torquing bolts results in a clamping force holding a joint together, Most auto joints are “friction type” connections meaning the coefficient of friction and the clamp force determine a level of force it takes to slip the joint. The second type of joint is a “bearing type” joint in which the fastener depends on bearing against the sides of the surfaces being joined. The reason a torque wrench is used is to ensure that a friction joint is predictable because it is correctly clamped with the required amount of force. The greatest accuracy happens when when brand new nuts and bolts are used properly torqued because the amount of clamp force obtained by a specified nut and bolt is predictable at a specified torque within 20%. That relationship changes by reusing nuts and bolts, and when you change the coefficient of friction between the nut and the bolt, there is probably a huge change. In fact, I have seen nuts and bolts used in construction seize due to roughness caused by sandblasting excess zinc off of bolts.

I would say that the only bolts that rely on the friction of compression would be ring gear bolts and flywheel bolts, and the flywheel is doweled. Everything else is either in shear or tensile. Clamping is not too important in shear and tensile bolts are generally torqued to 90% of their allowable tensile stress. There is a really, really good technical section in the ARP bolt catalog that details just about everything you would ever want to know about the metallurgy, manufacture and installation of threaded fasteners.

Good points: I seriously doubt a light glass beading, on a fastener, in an automotive environment, is going to effect a marked reduction in that fastener’s ability to do its job.

If one is that anal? Just bead blast the head of the bolt!

Generally only chassis and body bolts & screws are going to be in such poor shape that they need blast cleaning. With the exception of the flywheel bolts, all of the really critical fasteners are inside the engine and rear axle, bathed in oil. I will say, you damn sure want to remove any nut from the bolt before you bead blast it. The glass fragments pack into the gap between the two and make them a b#*?&ch to separate.

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Unless the fastener is a bearing type (such as your example of a flywheel dowel pin, shear can be only transferred only by friction unless it slips into bearing. The problem is if the bolts are not sufficiently torqued, the bolts will slip until it goes into bearing on the material it is clamping so we worry about torque. In my work (steel construction) AISC calls those “slip critical” fasteners, and we go to great lengths to insure the clamp load is as required. If not, as loads reverse (think of a ferris wheel, or any fasteners in the under carriage which experience reversing load going over potholes), the clamped material will slip until the bolt bottoms and then will slip back, usually the nut falls off eventually. Most automotive fasteners have large clamping margins so if you don’t torque the friction bolts (virtually all of them) they usually don’t slip because of the margin and common sense of the mechanic tightening them. Wing screws on the front wings are a good example of friction joints. Good luck with sand blasted threads!


Yes sir, I was Mechanical, not Structural, but I designed enough equipment supports to be very familiar with the process.

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Terrific! I wasn’t trying to talk down to you Mike, and I apologize if I seemed to. It is surprising how most people do not relate the tension in a bolt with its ability to transfer shear .


It’s all good! No problem here.

If it makes ya feel better… I never blast threads.