jag-lovers-digest Friday, 1 March 1996 Volume 01 : Number 398----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: “Martin Robert Fooks, WWIS” mfooks@postiss.netherlands.attgis.com
Date: Thu, 29 Feb 96 09:58:00 PST
Subject: Strange metal plate rattle on V12 Auto XJS
Hi People,
I have just noticed a very strange thing on My XJ…There is a loud
rattle (not unlike a steel plate vibrating against and engine or gearbox
casing) coming from the car when I am stationary in 1,2 Drive or Reverse.
It stops completely when I select N or P, but at the moment I have no
easy way to locate it, as I can’t select drive with the engine running
and get out of the car(no I didn’t try it to see what happens). Does
anyone have a good precise first place to look?
P.S. I hope it’s not inside the Auto Tranny, cos I’m in Holland now and I
don’t want to drive back to England for repairs under warranty if I can
help it.
Calvin: People think it must be fun to be a super genius,
but they don’t realize how hard it is to put up with all
the idiots in the world.
Hobbes: Isn’t your pants’ zipper supposed to be in the front?
Martin R. Fooks (Martin.Fooks@Netherlands.ATTGIS.COM)
(Martin_Fooks@MSN.COM)
Web Pages :http://www.cris.com/~Mrfooks/
Tel : +31 20 651 2698/ +31 20 41 91 731
Network Consultant, all round good-guy & part-time Demi-God.
From: “White, Dick” white@msgate.ColumbiaSC.ATTGIS.COM
Date: Thu, 29 Feb 96 08:29:00 edt
Subject: RE: – Bulb Failure – (FIXED!)
Quang,
I suspect that the light was not fixed by cleaning the resin. Resin is not
a conductor at least at normal voltages and temperatures. I suspect that
plugging and un-plugging probably fixed it.
Dick White
'64 3.8 S-Type
'58 XK 150 FHC
From: Quang Ngo
To: jag-lovers
Subject: – Bulb Failure – (FIXED!)
Date: Tuesday, February 27, 1996 3:00PMThanks to those who responded to my question about bulb failure. The
problem
is now fixed. Basically what I did was: I opened up the computer box that
controls the right/rear signal light. There was rosin on the bread board
which caused week short(s). So I just cleaned the rosin with a knife to
clear up the short(s). I then plugged it back in and it just worked like
new.This weekend I’ll work on the “feuling failure: 1” and “low break pressure”
problems. I went to a local dealer and asked for the crankshaft speed
sensor
and the break accumulator. They want $500 for the accumulator and $100 for
the sensor (just parts, no labor). Is it possible to fix these things or
do I have to replace them?-Quang (ngo@qlogic.com)
From: Are Lorentsen are@vinn.no
Date: Thu, 29 Feb 96 15:22:00 PST
Subject: cat and mouse
Hi!
There is so many nice things to buy in this world for children like me.
I just bought a jaguar mouse pad. My mouse is now crawling all over the
beautiful front of an XK120.
regards
Are Lorentsen
Narvik, Norway
82-XJ6
e-mail: are@vinn.no
From: Roger Langley lang0080@gold.tc.umn.edu ()
Date: Thu, 29 Feb 1996 09:35:40
Subject: Non Jag and Jag
First a thankyou to those who responded to my non-Jag message re a translation from the French…
Secondly, an apology to Mr Bujas for doing non Jag stuff but I was on a very short time
frame and couldn’t think of any other solution. You are correct of course.
Third, I have a1976 XJ12L that is totally destroyed by rust (“Minnesota Lace”)
I have located a body shell at RODNEY in Sarasota FL (3935 US 301 N is the address, @ 813-359-2277)
He wants a $1000 for the shell which is worth it to me. Shipping would be another $400 My question is, has any one bought shells
sight unseen and does anyone happen to know of this particular dealer whether he is trustworthy?
Any advice on such a transplant and such a purchase would be appreciated
Roger Langley
1983 XJ6
1973 Triumph GT6
1976 XJ12L (rest in peace for it is almost dead)
612 771 0806
lang0080@gold.tc.umn.edu
From: Donald.McGregor@snl.co.uk
Date: Thu, 29 Feb 1996 15:50:10 GMT
Subject: Re: 3.6 Fuel type
Hello Bryan at al,
Apologies for being 1 week late, Ive been on holiday.
When I bought my 1988 3.6 Sovereign I wote to Jaguar to
see what fuel type the engine could run on.
I was told that I could use leaded or Super Unleaded but
should NOT use normal unleaded fuel without modification. I
still have the official letter at home which I can quote
if required.
I have always used Super Unleaded with no problems.
Hope this is of use
Donald.
Donald.McGregor@snl.co.uk
From: TVJohnMM@aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Feb 1996 12:12:03 -0500
Subject: Saving The Woodwork
Wood Veneer on my '90 XJ40 is beginning to show small cracks, checks and
raised grain. Is there anyway to slow the inevitable??? Help !!!
From: “White, Dick” white@msgate.ColumbiaSC.ATTGIS.COM
Date: Thu, 29 Feb 96 11:56:00 edt
Subject: re: 3.8 rebuild
Jeff and Ilan,
My 3.8 block (1964) came with the newer asbestos seal. The seal is
contained by two shells mounted on the outside of the block. One shell (I
don’t remember if it is upper or lower) is fastened to the block by three
allen bolt set screws. The other shell is mounted to the first by two allen
bolt set screws. Two books I use both mention that if you have the old type
replace it with the new type. I assumed that this was an easy process and
did not require any machining of the block. Is the older type seal mounted
the same way or is it an integral part of the block? The books do mention
that if the asbestos seal is too tight it can melt the rear main bearing.
Regards,
Dick White
Columbia, SC
'64 3.8 S-Type
'58 XK 150 FHC
From: Jeffrey Gram
To: Jag-lovers
Subject: re: 3.8 rebuild
Date: Wednesday, February 28, 1996 2:38PMHi, Ilan,
YOU don’t modify the block to take a never type rear seal - Specialists do
this
for you - at a price if you know what I mean. It requires machining the
block
and the crank. I thought about it but the price made me reconsider. Unless
you
are a very experienced Jag engine rebuilder already (in which case you
would
not
ask…) I would not recommend to try and mount the rear seal yourself. I
requires experience to know the exact right “feel” - If too tight the rear
bearing melts in half an hour after you start the engine. Mine lasted three
kilometers. You cannot anticipate the pain and aggravation of such
experience
after fourteen days of hard work on the car and standing on the motorway at
2
AM
, 800 kilometers from home on your son’s three year birthday. (I slept 4
hours
an made a Le mans worthy performance through Germany and arrived at the
same
time as the guests…). It later turned out that the real culprit was a
too
tight bearing tolerance, but It could equally well have been the asbestos
rear
seal causing the exact same trouble.If you machine the block surface, the timing cover MUST be attached. To
stop
oil
leaks use liquid sealant (hylomar or equivalent). That STOPS leaks .Pistons you can order at VSE in UK tel +44 1597 840 308 / fax … 661. You
can
have any grade you want including race spec. You can’t afford to buy dodgy
pistons. VSE sells also american Quality Pistons and rings. Also special
con-rods etc etc if you really want to go wild.Regards Jeffrey Gram
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Thu, 29 Feb 1996 11:37:45 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Electrical problems
On Wed, 28 Feb 1996, george mykulowycz wrote:
The fuel and temperature guage temporarily stop working, both at the
same time. I am guessing it is a bad ground connection they share in
common. Does anyone know how the wiring of these guages are behind the
dashboard? Is it easily accessible? Do I assume that these connections
are in the proximity of the guages or do the wires go to a different
location?
On my 1979 Series II, 5 or 6 black ground wires from various things in
the dash are attached to one of the studs that hold the A/C-Heater fan
relay. This critter is located behind the carpet on the side of the
console, about where your accelerator foot rests (LHD). Take off the
footwell heater vent (be careful, it is somewhat overstressed plastic),
fold the carpet down, and, voila! you should see a black Lucas relay.
See if your dash ground wires–all with separate lugs so it’s easy to
miss one when you’re putting all this stuff back in–don’t attach to one
of those studs. As for the gauge end of those wires, you can probably
get to those by removing the crash pad on top of the dash.
Good hunting.
Larry Lee
From: “Robert W. Drummond (918) 669.2844” Robert.Drummond@penta.ps.net
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 1996 15:40:57 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: AT Inhibit Switch
Larry:
My '84 XJ-6 has the inhibit swith on the BW tranny and not in the console.
Hope that helps!
Robert
From: William F Trimble trimbwf@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Thu, 29 Feb 1996 15:02:43 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Thermostat adventures
Dear Jag-Lovers:
As promised a week or so ago, here is the story of my thermostat
replacement. The car (1985 Series III XJ6, 94,000 miles) had not been
warming up properly, and the heater was weak. We had some cold weather
here (low of 7 degrees; OK, lighten up, everyone. After all, this is
Alabama.) Not only was the heater weak, but the car wasn’t running well
either. I knew it was the thermostat, so I ordered an 88 degree unit,
along with the two gaskets on either side of the thermostat housing. I
also decided at the time to replace all the major hoses. I had replaced
them when I bought the car, but that was more than four years ago, and
some of the hoses were showing cracks.
Psyched myself up for the job two Saturdays ago. Removed the
radiator hoses and drained the system. Shifted focus to the three bolts
holding the thermostat housing in place. You can probably guess where
this story is going. One of the bolts, a short one at the bottom of the
housing, loosened nicely. The other two didn’t budge. I put increasing
pressure on them with a breaker bar and a twelve-point socket. When the
socket slipped off and rounded the bolt head over a little, I decided to
call Rick the Mechanic. He came over with some six-point sockets. He
put some more pressure on them. Still no movement. Decision time. Is
it possible to heat the ends of the bolts in situ? What if we break the
bolts off, remove the housing, and then try to back the bolts out of
where they thread into the coolant rail? None of these looked like good
alternatives. So, we looked at each other, looked at the car, looked
back at each other. Rick said bring the coolant rail over when I got it
off the car. I looked at him, he looked at me, and I looked at the car.
The coolant rail came off pretty easily. I carefully marked all
the connections and kept track of the parts in zip-lock baggies. With
some careful maneuvering, the rail could be eased out toward the front of
the car under the tangle of the injector harness. Then over to Rick’s.
After about a half-hour under the propane torch, one of the bolts moved.
More heat, and finally we were able to work it out. We also did some
soaking in WD-40. More heat. Second bolt moved, then backed out clear of
the threads, but was stuck in the housing. More heat as Rick pulled on
the end of the bolt with a pair of vise-grips. The bolt came loose,
caught fire on emerging from the housing, and quickly burned itself out.
We looked at each other, looked at the bolt, looked at the housing, and
looked at each other.
That evening, Larry Lee helped clean up everything in preparation
for reassembly. Also, we cut new gaskets to replace those between the
coolant rail and the inlet manifold. I found that the hose connecting
the aux. air valve to the inlet manifold had ossified and broken off.
Replaced with a similar hose from a local parts store. Called it a day.
Next day, I started putting everything back together again,
including the new hoses. It all went well; it was much easier to slip
the coolant rail under the fuel injection harness with the thermostat
housing off. Hooked up all the connections, being extra careful to get
the ground connection on the rearmost bolt connecting the rail to the
manifold. Rechecked the connections. Time to start it up and check for
leaks. No start. Plenty of cranking and no start. I was, to say the
least, a little discouraged. Rechecked all the connections. Still
not a sign of firing. Pulled the coil wire off and grounded it. Spark.
Pulled a plug wire off and grounded it. Spark. So the problem was
somewhere on the fuel side. So much for the ace mechanic. Depressed, I
called Rick the Mechanic. He said he’d try to take a look at it
tomorrow, and recommended I get away from the car for a while. I took
his advice.
Next afternoon, Rick came over. He started by checking the
thermotime switch. Seemed all right. Then he asked me to go get the
Haynes manual so we could check some resistances. I went in the house,
came out about two minutes later, and he said he found the problem. I
said, “What?” He said he had found the problem, hand him a wrench. I
did. He said, look here at the back of the coolant rail near the heater
hose. There was a black wire with an eyelet dangling loose. Then I
remembered that there were two grounds that attached to the last coolant
rail bolt. I felt about 2-inches tall. Forget any aspirations to being
mechanic of the year.
Interestingly, the car runs much better and the idle is greatly
improved. Obviously, the hose leading from the aux. air valve to the
inlet manifold was generating a large vacuum leak. No coolant leaks,
either.
I’d be interested to know if anyone else on the list has suffered
from recalcitrant bolts on their thermostat housings. By the way, the
bolts went back in with liberal amounts of antiseize on them.
Bill Trimble
Auburn, Alabama
From: Quang Ngo qlogic!ngo@netcom.com
Date: Thu, 29 Feb 96 13:06:28 PST
Subject: Non-Jag related question, sorry!
Hello Jag-Lovers,
My cousin has a Mercedes Benz and he wants to know if there’s mailing
list for these type of cars.
Thanks,
- -Quang (ngo@qlogic.com) Black '89 XJ6
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 29 Feb 96 16:43:45 EST
Subject: re: 3.8 rebuild
Hi Dick White,
I didn’t explain myself very well regarding XK 6 cylinder rear seal :
When I referred to burned bearings I meant the Asbestos rope - seal. When I
referred to “a new seal” it is because specialists in UK E.G; DJB Performance of
Coventry, can convert the asbestos seal type to a modern O-ring seal, which also
cam be changed without removing the sump and the shell with the three allen
bolts.
Changing from the old old seal to asbestos seal, I believe, does not require
machining. I don’t know the old old seal however so…
Regards Jeffrey Gram
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 1 Mar 96 10:12:52
Subject: Re: Another newbie question (XJ40)
The letters “XJ6” on the back aren’t there by mistake, whatever we may think of
Jag assembly quality. The factory intended the squared-off model to be XJ6 (or,
as the case may be, 12) Series 4, but when the project working name XJ40 got
out, it took hold so hard the wimps just gave up. BTW, did you know that XK and
XJ were initially the project codes for development engines? I’ve always been
curious about what happened to XA to XI… 8+)
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 1 Mar 96 10:32:22
Subject: Re: Sticking injectors (XJ5.3C)
I had mine cleaned by an injection shop (solvent pushed through in test rig
under pressure) and tested in the process. One was clapped out and has been
replaced. A bottle of solvent goes into the tank every couple of months and I
haven’t had any trouble since. 'Course, I drive it to work all year round here
in sunny Sydney, Australia… 8+)
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 1 Mar 96 10:23:03
Subject: Re: follow-up to differential trouble
-
Probably. The XJ final drive is very sensitive to correct meshing, as I have
found from personal experience. Merely setting it up on clearances is not good
enough; the old-fashioned Mechanic’s Blue has to be applied, and near enough is
most certainly not good enough, so the job has to be perfected, however tedious
it may be. Just by way of insurance, have a look at your drive shaft support
bearing; the resonance aspect makes me suspect that the drive shaft is
involved, and maybe (long shot) the bearing or its mounting is unhappy. -
No. 8+)
-
- Jan
From: “White, Dick” white@msgate.ColumbiaSC.ATTGIS.COM
Date: Thu, 29 Feb 96 19:06:00 edt
Subject: Re: E-Type Exhaust/triple HD8’s/needles
Hunt,
While I was working on my head last weekend I got to thinking about your
questions. Trying the same exercise I came up with similar but slightly
different numbers - see below. I’m not sure why our numbers came up
different but they’re close enough to be the same.
Dick White
'64 3.8 S-Type
'58 ’ XK 150 FHC
From: Hunt Dabney
I just played with calculating the change to compression ratio given 0.030"
overbore. I could not find a book value for stroke, so used 230 cu-in
divided by the bore area (total) to arrive at 4.1602".
The manual says for the 3.8 liter engine 87mm x 106mm or 3.425" x 4.173"
but I didn’t use the stroke to calculate the change. I made the following
assumptions:
CR = Volume at TDC/ Volume at BDC, or simplifying…
CR = Volume above head surface/ [Volume above + Volume below]
(simplification)
When you bore the cylinders out you only affect Volume below (same
simplification)
The change in compression ratio for an 8:1 engine becomes = 1/8 + 7/8 * [new
lower vol/ old lower vol]. Ratio of new to old lower volume for 30 thou
overbore for 3.8 liter engine is 3.455^2/3.425^2, independent of the stroke.
Total change in CR is then 8 * 1.0154 which is 8.123:1, only 1.5%
increase. Hardly noticeable.
Also, I made the
assumption that 8:1 is 8.00:1, 9:1 is 9.00:1. If this is wrong, what are
the
real numbers? Starting from 8:1, it increases to about 8.03:1. It’s a safe
bet this won’t be too noticeable! Re head skimming: if you assume that the
combustion chamber is essentially cylindrical at the mating face, and that
it’s about the same dia. as the bore (gross oversimplification),
I used the same ‘perfect cylinder’ assumption although the area of the
combustion chamber at the head surface is smaller than the bore. I measured
my head to be 3.255". For an 8:1, 3.8 liter engine I calculate the volume
at TDC to be 5.492 in^3. Making the same assumptions I used above for
compression ratio, the change in compression ratio for an 8:1, 3.8 liter
engine after head skimming becomes = 1/8 + 7/8 * [old upper vol/ new upper
vol]. The ratio of old to new upper volume for a 60 thou head skimming
using the 3.255 number is 1.10. The total change in compression ratio is
then 8 * 1.0875 which is 8.7. This would certainly be a detectable
difference.
at 8:1 the volume is about 4.79 in^3, removing 0.06" of face reduces the
chamber volume by 0.32 in^3, to 4.47 in^3. Then the compression ratio
becomes approx 8.6:1 with 8:1 pistons. If the same head were applied to 9:1
pistons, it would yield about 9.77:1.BTW, if anyone has engineering drawings for a 3.8 9:1 head that shows the
geometry of the chamber, I’d love a copy!
Sorry, only pictures.
Best-
Hunt
This exercise was harder than I thought.
Dick White
'64 3.8 S-Type
'58 ’ XK 150 FHC
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 1 Mar 96 10:55:22
Subject: Re: Electrical problems
My experience of Jag electrics has been that 99.9% of problems are caused by
bad contact in the Lucars(e) - those cadmium-plated cheapskate tubular
connectors. Get some cotton buds and acetone and clean out every single one you
can find, whether it’s related to your present problem or the next one .
Persist until the cotton bud comes out clean…
You’ll also find that Lucas spade connectors get tired (we’re dealing with an
old car, here) and no longer grip as they should. The cure is to nip up the
female part with a pair of pliers very carefully because if they get too
tight, it’s a job opening them out again. Guess how I found out…
The ignition switch is not meant to be dismantled, but it can be done if you’re
careful - getting it together again takes some dexterity with springs and small
bits of metal. It’s held on the back of the lock by a small grub screw on the
side of the lock (you can leave the lock in place). Careful with the tang on
the lock that drives the switch; the stupid thing is made of zinc and easy to
snap. Make sure the switch takes little force to operate before you put it back
in!
Your instrument trouble could indeed be caused by a loose or dirty earth (or
supply!) connection. You can find it after you take off the same padded section
above the driver’s legs that you need to remove to get at the ignition lock. I
suggest strongly that you get a copy of the workshop manual for details.
As for the dampers, I can’t give you much advice - I made up my own spring
compressor out of angle iron and two 3/8" threaded rods. Originally for a 240Z,
as it happens, but it fits the XJ rear springs just fine . I use Koni
dampers, which came with fairly stiff Neoprene bushes.
- -Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 1 Mar 96 11:11:32
Subject: Re: Strange metal plate rattle on V12 Auto XJS
Sounds like you need a friend to operate the tranny (and brakes!) on ramps
(straddle a ditch if you don’t have ramps…) while you listen. I had a similar
rattle once, which turned out to be a loose torque converter mounting bolt. You
can reach those after removing the little sheet metal cover under the flywheel
or the great big rubber plug near the oil pressure relief valve. I’ve also had
a metallic tinkle from the rivets on the starter gear rim working loose (cure:
centre-punch in place with helper holding large dolly) but that was not related
to engaging the transmission.
Good luck!
- -Jan
From: “White, Dick” white@msgate.ColumbiaSC.ATTGIS.COM
Date: Thu, 29 Feb 96 19:29:00 edt
Subject: re: 3.8 rebuild
Jeffrey,
Thanks. Having an O-ring seal sounds like a great idea. I wish mine had
one.
Regards,
Dick White
Columbia, SC
'64 3.8 S-Type
'58 XK 150 FHC
From: Jeffrey Gram
To: “White, Dick”
Cc: Jag-lovers
Subject: re: 3.8 rebuild
Date: Thursday, February 29, 1996 4:43PMHi Dick White,
I didn’t explain myself very well regarding XK 6 cylinder rear seal :
When I referred to burned bearings I meant the Asbestos rope - seal. When I
referred to “a new seal” it is because specialists in UK E.G; DJB
Performance
of
Coventry, can convert the asbestos seal type to a modern O-ring seal, which
also
cam be changed without removing the sump and the shell with the three allen
bolts.Changing from the old old seal to asbestos seal, I believe, does not
require
machining. I don’t know the old old seal however so…Regards Jeffrey Gram
From: reddog39@linknet.net (Ken Redmond)
Date: Thu, 29 Feb 1996 21:51:35 -0600
Subject: Re: Thermostat adventures
Bill,
I'm so glad you wrote of your experience because it saved me a lot
of typing.
I had and almost identical experience with my 1985 XJ-6.I had one frozen
bolt on the thermostat housing which required removing the water rail and
applying Kroyl penetrating oil and after about 36 hours and gentle
application of an air impact wrench, it was freed.
I will add one additional experience to my saga. Upon trying to
free the hose that goes from the water rail to the throttle housing I
managed to pull out the fitting that the hose attaches to on the throttle
housing. This required me to remove the air flow meter, which of course had
broken rubber mounts,and find a 90 degree number 20 torx wrench to remove
and replace the cover on the throttle housing.
This reminds me, to remind all of you out there, that if you are
going to replace a hose be sure to make a length ways cut in it and then
peel it off. Do not try to just pull it off or one time you will end up with
a fitting attached to the hose.
Also your reminder about the 2 hoses that go to and from the extra
air valve is important. I am sure that many XJ-6’s are running around with
broken or leaky hoses in this area.
Ken Redmond
85 XJ-6
Where else can you have this much fun!!!
At 03:02 PM 2/29/96 -0600, you wrote:
Dear Jag-Lovers:
As promised a week or so ago, here is the story of my thermostat
replacement. The car (1985 Series III XJ6, 94,000 miles) had not been
warming up properly, and the heater was weak. We had some cold weather
here (low of 7 degrees; OK, lighten up, everyone. After all, this is
Alabama.) Not only was the heater weak, but the car wasn’t running well
either. I knew it was the thermostat, so I ordered an 88 degree unit,
along with the two gaskets on either side of the thermostat housing. I
also decided at the time to replace all the major hoses. I had replaced
them when I bought the car, but that was more than four years ago, and
some of the hoses were showing cracks.
Psyched myself up for the job two Saturdays ago. Removed the
radiator hoses and drained the system. Shifted focus to the three bolts
holding the thermostat housing in place. You can probably guess where
this story is going. One of the bolts, a short one at the bottom of the
housing, loosened nicely. The other two didn’t budge. I put increasing
pressure on them with a breaker bar and a twelve-point socket. When the
socket slipped off and rounded the bolt head over a little, I decided to
call Rick the Mechanic. He came over with some six-point sockets. He
put some more pressure on them. Still no movement. Decision time. Is
it possible to heat the ends of the bolts in situ? What if we break the
bolts off, remove the housing, and then try to back the bolts out of
where they thread into the coolant rail? None of these looked like good
alternatives. So, we looked at each other, looked at the car, looked
back at each other. Rick said bring the coolant rail over when I got it
off the car. I looked at him, he looked at me, and I looked at the car.
The coolant rail came off pretty easily. I carefully marked all
the connections and kept track of the parts in zip-lock baggies. With
some careful maneuvering, the rail could be eased out toward the front of
the car under the tangle of the injector harness. Then over to Rick’s.
After about a half-hour under the propane torch, one of the bolts moved.
More heat, and finally we were able to work it out. We also did some
soaking in WD-40. More heat. Second bolt moved, then backed out clear of
the threads, but was stuck in the housing. More heat as Rick pulled on
the end of the bolt with a pair of vise-grips. The bolt came loose,
caught fire on emerging from the housing, and quickly burned itself out.
We looked at each other, looked at the bolt, looked at the housing, and
looked at each other.
That evening, Larry Lee helped clean up everything in preparation
for reassembly. Also, we cut new gaskets to replace those between the
coolant rail and the inlet manifold. I found that the hose connecting
the aux. air valve to the inlet manifold had ossified and broken off.
Replaced with a similar hose from a local parts store. Called it a day.
Next day, I started putting everything back together again,
including the new hoses. It all went well; it was much easier to slip
the coolant rail under the fuel injection harness with the thermostat
housing off. Hooked up all the connections, being extra careful to get
the ground connection on the rearmost bolt connecting the rail to the
manifold. Rechecked the connections. Time to start it up and check for
leaks. No start. Plenty of cranking and no start. I was, to say the
least, a little discouraged. Rechecked all the connections. Still
not a sign of firing. Pulled the coil wire off and grounded it. Spark.
Pulled a plug wire off and grounded it. Spark. So the problem was
somewhere on the fuel side. So much for the ace mechanic. Depressed, I
called Rick the Mechanic. He said he’d try to take a look at it
tomorrow, and recommended I get away from the car for a while. I took
his advice.
Next afternoon, Rick came over. He started by checking the
thermotime switch. Seemed all right. Then he asked me to go get the
Haynes manual so we could check some resistances. I went in the house,
came out about two minutes later, and he said he found the problem. I
said, “What?” He said he had found the problem, hand him a wrench. I
did. He said, look here at the back of the coolant rail near the heater
hose. There was a black wire with an eyelet dangling loose. Then I
remembered that there were two grounds that attached to the last coolant
rail bolt. I felt about 2-inches tall. Forget any aspirations to being
mechanic of the year.
Interestingly, the car runs much better and the idle is greatly
improved. Obviously, the hose leading from the aux. air valve to the
inlet manifold was generating a large vacuum leak. No coolant leaks,
either.
I’d be interested to know if anyone else on the list has suffered
from recalcitrant bolts on their thermostat housings. By the way, the
bolts went back in with liberal amounts of antiseize on them.Bill Trimble
Auburn, Alabama
End of jag-lovers-digest V1 #398
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jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 2 March 1996 Volume 01 : Number 399
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 29 Feb 1996 21:14:38 -0800
Subject: Re: Strange metal plate rattle on V12 Auto XJS
Rear engine (trans) mounts, perhaps?
Hunt
At 09:58 AM 2/29/96 PST, Martin Robert Fooks, WWIS wrote:
Hi People,
I have just noticed a very strange thing on My XJ…There is a loud
rattle (not unlike a steel plate vibrating against and engine or gearbox
casing) coming from the car when I am stationary in 1,2 Drive or Reverse.
It stops completely when I select N or P, but at the moment I have no
easy way to locate it, as I can’t select drive with the engine running
and get out of the car(no I didn’t try it to see what happens). Does
anyone have a good precise first place to look?P.S. I hope it’s not inside the Auto Tranny, cos I’m in Holland now and I
don’t want to drive back to England for repairs under warranty if I can
help it.
Calvin: People think it must be fun to be a super genius,
but they don’t realize how hard it is to put up with all
the idiots in the world.
Hobbes: Isn’t your pants’ zipper supposed to be in the front?
Martin R. Fooks (Martin.Fooks@Netherlands.ATTGIS.COM)
(Martin_Fooks@MSN.COM)
Web Pages :http://www.cris.com/~Mrfooks/
Tel : +31 20 651 2698/ +31 20 41 91 731
Network Consultant, all round good-guy & part-time Demi-God.
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 29 Feb 1996 21:14:48 -0800
Subject: Re: E-Type Exhaust/triple HD8’s/needles
Dick-
Between the two of us, we’re probably close! I didn’t keep the scratch paper
that I used – maybe the difference is my Reverse Polish math 
(HP
calculator), or perhaps having done it after I should have gone to bed! I
made a fair amount of semi-educated guesses to arrive at my numbers.
Hunt
At 07:06 PM 2/29/96 edt, White, Dick wrote:
Hunt,
While I was working on my head last weekend I got to thinking about your
questions. Trying the same exercise I came up with similar but slightly
different numbers - see below. I’m not sure why our numbers came up
different but they’re close enough to be the same.Dick White
'64 3.8 S-Type
'58 ’ XK 150 FHCFrom: Hunt Dabney
I just played with calculating the change to compression ratio given 0.030"
overbore. I could not find a book value for stroke, so used 230 cu-in
divided by the bore area (total) to arrive at 4.1602".The manual says for the 3.8 liter engine 87mm x 106mm or 3.425" x 4.173"
but I didn’t use the stroke to calculate the change. I made the following
assumptions:
CR = Volume at TDC/ Volume at BDC, or simplifying…
CR = Volume above head surface/ [Volume above + Volume below]
(simplification)
When you bore the cylinders out you only affect Volume below (same
simplification)The change in compression ratio for an 8:1 engine becomes = 1/8 + 7/8 * [new
lower vol/ old lower vol]. Ratio of new to old lower volume for 30 thou
overbore for 3.8 liter engine is 3.455^2/3.425^2, independent of the stroke.
Total change in CR is then 8 * 1.0154 which is 8.123:1, only 1.5%
increase. Hardly noticeable.Also, I made the
assumption that 8:1 is 8.00:1, 9:1 is 9.00:1. If this is wrong, what are
the
real numbers? Starting from 8:1, it increases to about 8.03:1. It’s a safe
bet this won’t be too noticeable! Re head skimming: if you assume that the
combustion chamber is essentially cylindrical at the mating face, and that
it’s about the same dia. as the bore (gross oversimplification),I used the same ‘perfect cylinder’ assumption although the area of the
combustion chamber at the head surface is smaller than the bore. I measured
my head to be 3.255". For an 8:1, 3.8 liter engine I calculate the volume
at TDC to be 5.492 in^3. Making the same assumptions I used above for
compression ratio, the change in compression ratio for an 8:1, 3.8 liter
engine after head skimming becomes = 1/8 + 7/8 * [old upper vol/ new upper
vol]. The ratio of old to new upper volume for a 60 thou head skimming
using the 3.255 number is 1.10. The total change in compression ratio is
then 8 * 1.0875 which is 8.7. This would certainly be a detectable
difference.at 8:1 the volume is about 4.79 in^3, removing 0.06" of face reduces the
chamber volume by 0.32 in^3, to 4.47 in^3. Then the compression ratio
becomes approx 8.6:1 with 8:1 pistons. If the same head were applied to 9:1
pistons, it would yield about 9.77:1.BTW, if anyone has engineering drawings for a 3.8 9:1 head that shows the
geometry of the chamber, I’d love a copy!Sorry, only pictures.
Best-
HuntThis exercise was harder than I thought.
Dick White
'64 3.8 S-Type
'58 ’ XK 150 FHC
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 1 Mar 96 16:28:34
Subject: Strange steering noises (XJ)
My XJ5.3C now has a freshly overhauled power steering pump and rack, which
worked fine in another car. They still work fine, except as it warms up, it
starts making the sort of noise you get when the relief valve lifts at full
lock, except gentler - but only when you turn to the right, however little and
however gently! When it gets really hot, after 30 km (20 mi) on a very twisty
road (great fun!), it also starts making that noise to the left, if you grab a
sudden handful of steering. I wasn’t getting this noise in the other car, so
possibly it originates in the piping, which is unchanged.
Has anybody had any experience with this?
-
- Jan
** “Push to test” …… “Release to detonate” **
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 01 Mar 96 02:05:54 EST
Subject: Strange steering noises (XJ)
Hi Jan,
I have a XJ4.2 Coupe, but have not had your problem. This is probably due to the
high presseure relief valve, which might be “too weak” for the newly increased
oilpressure from a rebuild power steering pump.
You might or might not have noticed that on twisty demanding roads or just
checking out on a free motorway, that very swift left-rights of say 1/3 turns on
the steering wheel will demand more fluid that the pump can deliver ,. resulting
in a marked resistance in the steering. The SII pump has more than enough power
(pressure) - too much for my liking, but not enough capacity.
I have toyed with the idea to improve the steering pump in the SII jag to, Lower
the pressure, have more fluid (tandem operation ? - cromed twin pumps…?), and
if possible to have a speed sensitive device which could adjust the pressure
according to speed. When the other 3 major Jag project stacking in the corner
has finished I shall attack this problem. Of course one could bodge a pump
system from an Audi, Mercedes or BMW - ooups - the flame suit - quick…
If you dont already have an uprated set of steering rack bushes, I suggest you
order them immediately irrespective of the state of the standard bushes. The
stiffer bushes make one hell of a difference in feel and precision of the
steering of the XJ.
The Series III XJ has a much improved feel to it, however is still not speed
sensitive.The difference lies in the pressure valve.
Regards Jeffrey Gram.
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 01 Mar 96 02:05:56 EST
Subject: Non-Jag related question, sorry!
Hi Quang,
The mercedes list is accessed by :
send mail to “majordomo@bga.com” with the following command
in the body of your email message:
subscribe mercedes (or mercedes-digest)
Wait for the flood… Regards Jeffrey Gram
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 1 Mar 96 19:35:18
Subject: Re: Strange steering noises (XJ)
Hi, Jeffrey
Thanks for your prompt answer. As far as I know, the PR valve should be OK -
new springs, etc. And, as I said, the same units made no noise in the other car.
I agree about the capacity; the response is strong but not super-quick. I’m
more inclined to add a pressure accumulator (but where?) to handle brief peak
loads, though.
The bushes, yes - the did make the steering much more precise. And the new
wheels (replacing aftermarket Dunlop wire wheels, a curse on the soggy, fragile
things) absolutely transformed the handling, which is now razor sharp - 7"
Stealth (5-spoke alloy) with 235-60 15" VR Bridgestone Eagers. I’ll go for
different tyres next time, though - these sound like four ruined wheel bearings
at low speed on smooth roads.
-
- Jan
From: “Martin Robert Fooks, WWIS” mfooks@postiss.netherlands.attgis.com
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 96 10:07:00 PST
Subject: Strange metal plate rattle on V12 Auto XJS - Continued!
Well, It looks like I don’t need any suggestions any more!
Whilst driving home yesterday the Uprated Torque converter seems to have
destroyed itself somehow… My baby is now nursing it’s wounds at the
local Jag Dealer, awaiting a post-mortem. I will let you know exactly
what gave way when They drop the Auto out next week.
On the bright side though, The labor is all being paid for by the RAC
(British version of AAA) and as the torque converter is under warranty,
the parts will be covered by the English Transmission specialists.
In Their defense, I would like to add, that they offered to ship the car
to England, repair it and ship it back out to me in Holland (This would
have cost a Mint!).
With service like that I think they deserve a recommendation. The man to
speak to in England if you have any transmission problems is :
John Edwards,
Spanners Garage,
Nett Service Station,
Southlands Road,
Bromley,
Kent
Tel : +44 (0)850 958051
Calvin: People think it must be fun to be a super genius,
but they don’t realize how hard it is to put up with all
the idiots in the world.
Hobbes: Isn’t your pants’ zipper supposed to be in the front?
Martin R. Fooks (Martin.Fooks@Netherlands.ATTGIS.COM)
(Martin_Fooks@MSN.COM)
Web Pages :http://www.cris.com/~Mrfooks/
Tel : +31 20 651 2698/ +31 20 41 91 731
Network Consultant, all round good-guy & part-time Demi-God.
From: “BJ Kroppe” wkroppe@ford.com
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 09:10:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Thermostat Housing Bolts
Bill Trimble asked about recalcitrant t’stat housing bolts.
Yes, my thermostat housing bolts were a bugger to get off. I was
doing it on a bench, so didn’t have to worry about the pros/cons
of removing the water rail from the car. I got the bolts out
by soaking liberally in WD40 and scraping out as much of the
gaskets as I could, as they became soggy with WD40 . I did this
presumably to relax the tension on the bolts, although the
real problem was the build up of coolant sludge around the
bolt threads.
One for the Top 10 Tools Toolbox:
The only tools needed in the world are a can of WD40, a roll
of duct tape and a pair of channel locks (grooved pliers).
BJ Kroppe - '82 XJ6
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 1996 16:15:44 -0100
Subject: the beast is wounded…
Guys,
Old Nick needs a little input, the story goes like this:
On my way home from work in the Beast, '70 XJ6, I stop for some shopping. Coming out of the parking lot I am just pulling into the main road as, without warning the engine dies, the brake pedal goes to the floor and smoke is coming out around the bonnet and in thru the wents. I hurry out of the car, grab the fire extinguisher from the boot, open the bonnet and put out the small fire. Trying to act all casual I then diagnose. What happened was that the main plus-lead from the battery was changed (by yours truly) last summer, and when it was screwed on at the non-battery end it was a little too close to what I assume is a brake-pipe… So after all this time it finally decides the time has come to gnaw it all the way thru, and with the help of that nice Mr. Electricity make a little under-bonnet barbeque. Guess I should be rather relieved that this happened in a safe place, and not on the motorway 10 minutes earlier. Now, question time! What the **** do I do now? Does brake-piping come as ready made parts or do I buy a kit? I’ve never had to touch the brake-pipes before and I’m more than a little at loss. If there is anyone lokal that has more than a clue and would like to give a hand I’ll be more than willing to show my gratitude Oh, and yes, I did have another baby a week ago 
A boy, and he’s fine, and his sister and brother are thrilled to pieces. Unless I’m going to develop an incredible lust for a VW van that’s the lot, kidwise. Take care folks, Nick <<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>> <<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>> The Jaguar enthusiasts WWW-site <<< http://www.sn.no/home/nick/jaguar.html <<< From: erict@cta.com (Eric Thorstenson) Date: Fri, 1 Mar 96 10:55:00 EST Subject: Re: the beast is wounded… Nick says: What the **** do I do now? Does brake-piping come as ready made parts or do I buy a kit? Brake line should be readily available at any auto shop. You can buy it in standard lengths with the ends already flared, or if you have a flaring tool, you can just buy the tube, put your own ends on it, and then flare it. A tubing bender will make shaping and installing it much easier, as it’s pretty easy to collapse the tubing without one. Glad to hear you had a fire extinguisher with you… Perhaps I should learn something the easy way for once and start carrying one myself… Eric T. '73 XJ6 erict@ra.cta.com From: “Jim Cantrell” JIMC@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 09:30:01 MDT Subject: Re: the beast is wounded… Nick wrote:
I hurry out of the car, grab the fire extinguisher from
the boot, open the bonnet and put out the small fire.
Trying to act all casual I then diagnose.
What an experience. I have shared that one too on my Sunbeam.
Ignition wire short. Scary.
What happened was that the main plus-lead from the battery
was changed (by yours truly) last summer, and when it
was screwed on at the non-battery end it was a little too
close to what I assume is a brake-pipe… So after all this
time it finally decides the time has come to gnaw it all
the way thru, and with the help of that nice Mr. Electricity
make a little under-bonnet barbeque.
That one always worries me in a crowded under-hood environment.
What the **** do I do now? Does brake-piping come as ready
made parts or do I buy a kit? I’ve never had to touch the
brake-pipes before and I’m more than a little at loss.
By brake-pipe, I assume that you mean the steel hydraulic line on the
pressure side of the master cylinder. These lines are actually easy
to patch. I don’t know about Norway, but in the US, most auto parts
stores sell various lengths of brake line tubing which can be used to
replace the injured section. I have done this on many cars with
favorable results. The patch sections will typically come with two
male ends. You can splice the brake line into the existing one by
cutting out the bad section with a tubing cutter, placing male
fittings over the cut ends and flaring the cut ends. You then can
couple them with union fittings. The thing that you should remember
is that there are two types of flares: single and double. Single
flares are a one-step operation and a re fine for low pressure
applications (1-2 bars). Double flares are mandatory for high
pressure applications such as brake lines. You will likely need to
buy a flaring tool kit which includes the cutter, the basic flaring
tool, and the double flare inserts. I paid around $100 US for such a
kit ten years ago but it has been very useful.
Good luck,
Jim Cantrell
76 XJ12C
66 Alpine 2.8L
If there is anyone lokal that has more than a clue and
would like to give a hand I’ll be more than willing to
show my gratitudeOh, and yes, I did have another baby a week ago
and he’s fine, and his sister and brother are thrilled to
pieces. Unless I’m going to develop an incredible lust for
a VW van that’s the lot, kidwise.Take care folks,
Nick
<<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>>
<<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>>The Jaguar enthusiasts WWW-site <<<
From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 11:54:00 -0500
Subject: Replies and XJ-S Instrument question
-
–IMA.Boundary.955587528
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Description: cc:Mail note partLadies and Gentlemen:
May I suggest that when replying to earlier messages we only quote the
specific text the reply pertains to? It will save a lot of bandwidth.Now the question:
I have often seen an ad in Jaguar World for a replacement instrument
panel for the XJ-S that uses round gauges. Was this panel used on
some years production? If so, which? Has anyone installed one?MikeC
m.cogswell@zds.com -
–IMA.Boundary.955587528–
From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 12:22:35 -0500
Subject: Re: the beast is wounded…
At 04:15 PM 3/1/96 -0100, nick@sn.no wrote:
Guys,
Trying to act all casual I then diagnose.
Oh, yes – Jaguar ownership gives you plenty of opportunities to look cool,
calm and collected while your hood is up, smoke is about and all manner of
fluids pour out the bottom…“I meant to do that!”…
What the **** do I do now? Does brake-piping come as ready
made parts or do I buy a kit?
You can buy brake tubing in common lengths with fittings at any auto parts
store. They’ll also have whatever unions, etc. you may need.
If you are not replacing the entire steel line on your car with a common
length, you will need a double-flaring tool which can be rented but are
cheap enough to buy and add to your tool inventory. Double-flaring the
tubing is easy - just follow the enclosed directions. Be very careful if
you need to add bends to the tubing – don’t kink it – inexpensive tubing
benders can help, but even they will kink if you are not careful. (Some
people fill tubing with fine material [sand] to prevent kinks, but this is
not necessary on a brake line, and damaging if you don’t get it all out.
The tubing is cheap enough for you to ‘ruin’ some, too.)
Oh, and yes, I did have another baby a week ago
and he’s fine, and his sister and brother are thrilled to
pieces.
Congratulations!! I’m sure you and you wife are very proud! Now you have a
full pit crew!
Regards,
John
From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 12:53:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Replies and XJ-S Instrument question
At 11:54 AM 3/1/96 -0500, Mike Cogswell wrote:
I have often seen an ad in Jaguar World for a replacement instrument panel for the XJ-S that uses round gauges. Was this panel used on some years production? If so, which? Has anyone installed one?
This panel looks like an aftermarket creation. I saw the ad and, if you
have WWW access, they have a Web page. It sounds really expensive.
I have been thinking about gauge replacements for some time because I (a)
hate the stock gauge design and layout (b) have a 85 MPH speedometer, anyway
(‘What you shouldn’t do you shouldn’t know’ US regulatory credo). While I
could just replace the 85 MPH speedo and might (anyone got one?), I would be
happier long-term with a better dash layout.
The stock instrument cluster comes out with two screws (upper front
corners), speedo cable and two electrical plugs. Took mine out for the h***
of it once; found it easier to pull the steering wheel first (also easy –
wiggled off without a puller!)
I have gone so far as to start looking at aftermarket gauges. The commonly
available gauges don’t have the ‘look’ I want, but I have not yet explored
all of the offerings from all of the manufacturers. The search continues as
a low priority; it will include gauges as used on other high-end cars
(Ferraris, Porsches, etc.). Obviously, I want them all to look the same.
Sender replacement and tachometer recalibration may be necessary, too. The
‘idiot lights’ have to be addressed, too.
All of this is obviously worked out for you in the above-mentioned kit. Add
R&D costs and production costs and profit and a limited marketplace and you
must end up with an expensive proposition. But it could be worth it if you
don’t want to get that deep into it.
Regards,
John
From: DPI@aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 13:24:28 -0500
Subject: Re: the beast is wounded…
Hi Nick,
Congratulations on your new addition to the family.
I had a similar experience where a chafe against the body resulted in a
broken brake line. Since I was on the road, in the middle of nowhere,
somewhere near the Twilight Zone, I was forced to resort to field expediency.
I repaired it with some appropriate size fittings, a small pipe flaring tool
and a flexible brake hose from a front disk brake (Massey Ferguson?). All
obtained from a Mom & Pop auto parts store.
Total cost, under $20.00.
Tightened it up, filled it with new brake fluid, bled the brakes (furthest to
closest) and hit the road. It worked like a charm for at least 2 years and
was still that way when I sold the car.
The nice thing was that the flexible brake hose was encased in a metal spring
and because of its extra protection and flexibility, the original problem was
also eliminated.
Take Care, Dale
71 Jaguarolet
Porsches and Trucks
From: Chris Howard christopher@netmanage.com
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 96 10:49:11 GST
Subject: Some basic trim questions ? 84 s3 xj6 Van Plas
Please forgive my ignorance but I keep seeing other xj6 models with slight
differences in trim, so here it goes…
Yesterday I saw what I believe was a 1985 xj6, but different than mine
as far as the insignia on back, it had metal plates with Jaguar
printed on the left and Vanden Plas on the right metal plate, my
Vanden Plas (1984) says xj6 on the right and the name is popped in to the
boot lid with two prongs, same with the xj6name tag on the right, I then saw another what
I believe was a 1984 or 1985 xj6 and it has bigger name tags with the
two prong in body configuration. Also, my xj6 doesn’t have a jaguar
hood ornament, did some come with and some without ? And last but not least
… my doors do not have any wood on them, they are either vinyl or
leather on the top and I saw an identical car to mine but it had wood
trim on the tops of the doors.
I am rather confused on this one. thanks for your answers ahead of time.
Chris
Christopher Howard
Engineer, Technical Support Group
NetManage, INC. email me at:
10725 DeAnza Blvd. christopher@netmanage.com
Cupertino, CA 95014 our homepage:
<www.netmanage.com>
408/973-8181
408/973-8272 fax Home of the Chameleon !!
From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 14:33:47 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: Replies and XJ-S Instrument question
John:
I wonder if the creator of this 'replacement' panel simply uses Jaguar
gauges from another Jag. That would solve a lot of calibration and/or
sender problems. Perhaps from late XJ-6 or XJ-40? I think (per my
friend Bela) that they have a layout similar to the replacement panel.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Replies and XJ-S Instrument question
Author: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli) at INTERNET
Date: 03/01/96 12:53 PM
At 11:54 AM 3/1/96 -0500, Mike Cogswell wrote:
I have often seen an ad in Jaguar World for a replacement instrument panel for the XJ-S that uses round gauges. Was this panel used on some years production? If so, which? Has anyone installed one?
I have gone so far as to start looking at aftermarket gauges. The commonly
available gauges don’t have the ‘look’ I want, but I have not yet explored
all of the offerings from all of the manufacturers. The search continues as
a low priority; it will include gauges as used on other high-end cars
(Ferraris, Porsches, etc.). Obviously, I want them all to look the same.
Sender replacement and tachometer recalibration may be necessary, too. The
‘idiot lights’ have to be addressed, too.
Regards,
John
From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 14:58:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Replies and XJ-S Instrument question
If this is so, I would be very interested to learn what components are used,
although quite frankly I wasn’t too thrilled with their appearance or
layout. (I assume we are both refering to the Autostyle conversion.)
At 02:33 PM 3/1/96 -0500, Mike Cogswell wrote:
John: I wonder if the creator of this 'replacement' panel simply uses Jaguar gauges from another Jag. That would solve a lot of calibration and/or sender problems. Perhaps from late XJ-6 or XJ-40? I think (per my friend Bela) that they have a layout similar to the replacement panel.______________________________ Reply Separator
Regards,
John
From: BMiller142@aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 15:03:23 -0500
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V1 #398
LOOKING TO PURCHASE 2-4 SERIES II WHEELS (BOSTON AREA)
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jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 2 March 1996 Volume 01 : Number 400
From: “BJ Kroppe” wkroppe@ford.com
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 15:31:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Some basic trim questions ? 84 s3 xj6 Van Plas
Chris -
I had some similar questions, and Mr. Gregory Andrachuck (another Jag-lover –
are you there, Greg?) answered them. My car is an '82, notable features
include:
- straight grained veneer on fascia
- no veneer on console
- low center parcel shelf, without trip computer
- no wood on door casings
- no rear head restraints
- script “Jaguar” and “XJ6” badges on the bootlid
Here is the full text of Greg’s reply to me, dated 3 Oct 1995:
Mine is also an 82, late 82, which means it has numerous mechanical and
electrical changes, but nothing obvious. In answer to your questions,
once Jaguar did these alterations, they made some obvious ones beginning in
The 83 has the high parcel tray and trip computer, but not for all markets.
The standard European model had the high tray, but not the trip computer,
and retained the square clock that we have, sitting in the middle of a
wood grain panel. It looks odd. I have seen two of these here in Canada, both
imported from Europe. The straight grain was normal until 85. In the
Canadian Sovereign model (equivalent to the 6 cyl. US Van den Plas) the grain
was burl, but the xj6 retained the striaght grain into 87. The 86 and 87
xj6 had the wood strip in the door, but the panel itself was of one
colour, while the Sovereign and 12 cyl VDP had the black cap with wood. Rear
headrests were fitted to the Sovereign and VDP in 85, although these were
.an option in Europe as early as 82. My car (VIN 340046) had the bracket
already mounted, so I was able to retrofit the headrests (don;t ask about
the cost!) quite easily. The xj6 had script up to the end (87), but in
85 the script changed slightly to become more vertical in 85 (that is more
horizontally compact). The oblong plates were used for the Sovereign and
VDP models only in the Series III cars. Any Series III xj6 with oblong
plates has been involved in an accident, and had a non authentic repair!
By the way, although my dash is 99percent perfect (two small cracks from
the air sensor/seat belt light below the fuel gauge - noticeable only
by me), I just bought a NEW OLD STOCK Jaguar dash, made on Feb 17, '85
(stamped on back). It is a lovely burl, quite a bit darker than my present
one,
because mine (and yours)has faded with a yellowish tone. I have put it in
my closet, for future use. I plan to do the same with a set of leather
covers because the price I got from Paul’s Discount Jaguar in Florida
is unbeatable. While XK’s Unlimited wants almost $600 US for an after market
dash, this authentic one cost me $239, and it is flawless. The prices on
leather are likewise MUCH cheaper, and the fellow (an AUSSIE) is pleaant
to deal with. I have been restoring my car to “perfect” condition
over the past two years. In August it got a First in Class at the Vancouver
Heritage Classic Concours (Jags judged according to JCNA rules). It needs
a really good paint job to be concours, but it looks like a new car to
the average person (and my wife - she’ll never understand why I NEED
new leather). There are lots of things probably missing on your car -
the trunk lid pad? the wiring harness covers under the hood (on fenders)?
the black trim over the underhood fender seams? all the rubber grommets
under the body ? This sort of stuff is fairly cheap and easy to do. I
might know some other things about your car, since I have researched the
production details and variances quite thoroughly. Gregory
BJ Kroppe - '82 XJ6
From: mkenrick@golder.com (Michael Kenrick)
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 12:30:47 -0800
Subject: Re: Replies and XJ-S Instrument question
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From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
To: jag-lovers@psy.uwa.edu.au
Subject: Replies and XJ-S Instrument question
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Content-Description: cc:Mail note partMikeC asked:
I have often seen an ad in Jaguar World for a replacement
instrument panel for the XJ-S that uses round gauges. Was this panel
used on some years production?Yes. The XJ-S production cars went to round guages (for the
secondary instruments) in the early 1990’s. The replacement panels
(by Paul Banham) are a relatively recent thing that (I think)
followed this move, but allowed owners of older XJ-S models to
upgrade their interiors.Has anyone installed one?
I chose to go with the installed instruments, and just ordered the wood
panel to replace that hideous black plastic. I did the ski-slope, radio
surround, ignition and lights switches too. And very nice they are, IMHO.
They don’t have a dramatic effect on the interior – they simply look as if
they were part of the car from the day it was built.BTW, I should commend Paul and the boys for being very patient with me
through all this – and a cautionary tale about matching the wood grain,
burl pattern and colour. For the first attempt, I prized off and sent in
the little dash vent panel to the side of the steering wheel (per their
instructions). It looked a good match to me, but the set of wood that
returned was completely off – way too dark, and none of the beautiful burl
pattern on the glove box lid.Closer examination of the “sample” vent panel showed that one side bore a
close resemblance to the rest of my wood. The other side showed a close
resemblance to the wood prepared and dispatched by Banham. I called and
they kindly agreed to replace the items, if I sent in the glove-box lid as
a better sample. This was much easier to remove.I lived without the glove-box lid for a few sad weeks, and was happy to get
back a full set of well-matched, very burly whorled woody parts that
matched very closely. The stain is slightly darker, but that might be good
if the wood fades in over the coming years.Michael Kenrick (MikeK ???)
1986 XJ-S V12 “RED JAG” 130,893 miles
Woodinville, WA, USA
mkenrick@golder.com -
–IMA.Boundary.372217528–
From: mkenrick@golder.com (Michael Kenrick)
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 12:47:23 -0800
Subject: Re[2]: Replies and XJ-S Instrument question
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To: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell), jag-lovers@psy.uwa.edu.au
From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Subject: Re: Replies and XJ-S Instrument question
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(b) have a 85 MPH speedometer, anyway (‘What you shouldn’t do you
shouldn’t know’ US regulatory credo).
Wow! I always assumed that Jags or imports had somehow evaded the
madness of the 85-mph speedo!
Let me elaborate on this, for our non-US friends. Just one aspect of
the culture-shock I encountered as a Brit new in the US 10 yrs ago was
the puzzle of the 85-mph speedo. I rented a nice Ford T-Bird from El
Paso airport and set out across the New Mexico desert...
A nice straight deserted road beckoned, so I wound up this Yankee
monster, and watched the electro-digital numbers climb upward ... to
85 mph. The car kept accelerating, but the speedo remained the same:
85 mph. I slowed down and eventually got the speedo to drop below 85
mph. So I speeded up and checked that what I was seeing (or, rather,
NOT seeing) was really true. I was probably doing over 100, but the
damned thing still gave me a green day-glo 85 mph!
It was at this point that I seriously considered canceling my contract
in the US (the land of "freedom and democracy" - Ha!) and returning to
despotic, beaurocratized Europe. At least in Europe, and probably in
every other country in the world, I would still have the personal
freedom to know the speed I was driving!
Michael Kenrick
1986 XJ-S V12 "RED JAG" 130,893 miles
Woodinville, WA, USA
<mkenrick@golder.com>
- –IMA.Boundary.013317528–
From: “Daniel S. Hayes” danh@Intelus.Com
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 1996 15:53:53 -0500
Subject: Body person/oil pan
Hi all,
A couple of questions:
- I live in the Washington D.C. metro area. I am looking for a good
body person (its the 90s) to start discussing the direction I should go when
restoring my Jags body. One who is skilled in working with old british cars
(lead loading, etc…). preferably Jaguars.
- I have a 3.8 from a Mark IV, I believe. Unfortunately for me, it
has the Mark IV oil pan. I want a 64’ E-Type oil pan. Is is a simple as
just replacing the pan with a finned E-Type pan? Do I have to replace the
oil pan pickup and other internals? Anyone have a clue?
Regards,
Daniel S. Hayes
2200 Wilson Blvd., #102-226
Arlington, VA 22201
danh@intelus.com http://www.intelus.com
301-990-6363x263 64 3.8 Series I E-Type Coupe
March 1, 1996
3:53 pm
From: mkenrick@golder.com (Michael Kenrick)
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 13:04:34 -0800
Subject: Re: Replies and XJ-S Instrument question
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From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
To: jag-lovers@psy.uwa.edu.au
Subject: Replies and XJ-S Instrument question
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Content-Description: cc:Mail note partMikeC asked:
I have often seen an ad in Jaguar World for a replacement
instrument panel for the XJ-S that uses round gauges. Was this panel
used on some years production?Yes. The XJ-S production cars went to round guages (for the
secondary instruments) in the early 1990’s. The replacement panels
(by Paul Banham) are a relatively recent thing that (I think)
followed this move, but allowed owners of older XJ-S models to
upgrade their interiors.Has anyone installed one?
I chose to go with the installed instruments, and just ordered the wood
panel to replace that hideous black plastic. I did the ski-slope, radio
surround, ignition and lights switches too. And very nice they are, IMHO.
They don’t have a dramatic effect on the interior – they simply look as if
they were part of the car from the day it was built.BTW, I should commend Paul and the boys for being very patient with me
through all this – and a cautionary tale about matching the wood grain,
burl pattern and colour. For the first attempt, I prized off and sent in
the little dash vent panel to the side of the steering wheel (per their
instructions). It looked a good match to me, but the set of wood that
returned was completely off – way too dark, and none of the beautiful burl
pattern on the glove box lid.Closer examination of the “sample” vent panel showed that one side bore a
close resemblance to the rest of my wood. The other side showed a close
resemblance to the wood prepared and dispatched by Banham. I called and
they kindly agreed to replace the items, if I sent in the glove-box lid as
a better sample. This was much easier to remove.I lived without the glove-box lid for a few sad weeks, and was happy to get
back a full set of well-matched, very burly whorled woody parts that
matched very closely. The stain is slightly darker, but that might be good
if the wood fades in over the coming years.Michael Kenrick (MikeK ???)
1986 XJ-S V12 “RED JAG” 130,893 miles
Woodinville, WA, USA
mkenrick@golder.com -
–IMA.Boundary.113417528–
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 1996 21:36:25 -0100
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Replies and XJ-S Instrument question
[ M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell) ]
|
| I wonder if the creator of this ‘replacement’ panel simply uses Jaguar
| gauges from another Jag. That would solve a lot of calibration and/or
| sender problems. Perhaps from late XJ-6 or XJ-40? I think (per my
| friend Bela) that they have a layout similar to the replacement panel.
The replacement panel looks to me to be a modified setup
from a series 3 XJ.
Nick
<<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>>
<<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>>
The Jaguar enthusiasts WWW-site <<<
From: rjs2v@uva.pcmail.virginia.edu
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 21:14:44 -0500
Subject: XK150 Rehab
Well, here we go. Thanks to your good advice, I’ve ordered an
interior kit from Bartlett - upholstry and top. Now I can really
go at the removal of the old interior.
And, I have a bid/understanding with my local restoration shop,
for body repair and paint. I am to complete the removal of the
chrome and the misc body parts and the he will start the major
stuff. The plan is to leave the engine bay for another time
(like when the engine has to come out for reasons of its own). He
is to unbolt the body from the frame, clean and paint the
chassis and body bottom, remove and redo the rear wings, strip
and paint the body and its parts, re-mount the body so that the
doors hang true, repalce all of the other parts which I have
removed – for about $6,000. Seemed pretty reasonable to me.
The guy is good – he shows an E Type for a customer which has
won a number of prizes.
So, its no looking back. And I feel fine, I really do. Honest, I
haven’t had any (very many) second thoughts.
I’ll let you know what happens if you’re interested
Bob Sack
1959 XK150 DHc
1895 XJ6
Robert J. Sack
phone 804 924 4814
fax 804 924 4859
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 23:49:47 -0500
Subject: Lister at Daytona 24-hour
Talked to an old friend of mine this week, and found out that he was driving
a Camaro in the GTS-1 class at the Daytona 24-Hour this year. That means he
was racing AGAINST the Lister. I asked for info.
He said that both the Lister and the 5-valve Bugatti would positively scream
down the straights, but neither car handled well. Daytona is the first in a
series of nine races and the one in which straightaway speed is most valued,
so that Lister better work on the maneuvering before the successive races or
its chances are slim.
According to this friend, the Auroras that dominated the GTS-1 class did
everything well – they were fast on the straight, cornered well, braked well.
I asked if he had any impressions of why the Lister didn’t handle well, and
he said – based only on watching it from another car, mind you – that it
appeared to be sprung too stiffly.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 23:50:13 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ6 Burned Pistons
This response comes quite a while after the earlier discussion of burned
pistons, but I had not seen this possible fault mentioned among the several
others offered.While considered rare, the problem has been seen several times at a local,
highly-regarded Jaguar garage. The Service Manager is convinced that the
problem is caused by a fuel injector fault. It is reasoned that a
reduced/obstructed fuel flow from an injector can lead to a very lean
mixture, an abnormal and excessively high temperature combustion pattern and
a burned piston.
This is a common line of thinking. However, it is apparently an explanation
given far more often than is justified. Injectors reportedly almost never
fail or clog, the exceptions (according to Neal) when they have clearly been
abused (water run through them or the like). On the V-12, apparently the
far more likely culprit is a vacuum leak, causing a lean condition on the
adjacent cylinder.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 23:49:49 -0500
Subject: Re: GM400 for the V12
How different are the internal parts of GM400 for the 85XJS from a regular
GM400?
AFAIK, the internal parts are the same. It’s the HOUSING that differs.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 1996 23:50:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Rear oil seal plate…
On my V12, the lower rear bearing cap is really a large plate that also
contains the lower half of the rear main crank oil seal. It also has two
grooves along the left and right sides that contain sealing strips.
During this rebuild, I wanted to replace these strips, so, upon finding
that they were not included in neither my upper nor lower gasket set, I
ordered a pair of them from XKU.
My Jaguar repair manual says that such seals should NOT be used, but rather
the grooves should be filled AFTER assembly by injecting a silicon sealant
up from below, until it seeps out at the top.
In my XJ-S booklet, I also point out that one would do well to apply a
sealant to the mating face of the bearing cap itself, between the top of the
grooves and the location for the rear crankshaft seal. The metal-to-metal
contact should not be relied upon to prevent oil leakage through this joint.
However, a suitable sealant that will not hold the parts apart is necessary.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@compuserve.com
Date: 02 Mar 96 00:22:35 EST
Subject: Fires
Sorry to hear about the fire Nick. I had one years ago in the 150 - slight fuel
leak, no air cleaners, backfire and whoosh! PO had installed a fire
extinguisher and it was quickly out, but a few weeks off the road while I pulled
the head apart to get the fire extinguisher gunge out. The passenger later
married me. Such fires were common with early XKs: the dreaded starting carb
would flood, and the earliest 120s came without air cleaners. There are 2 rules
never to be violated for an XK owner: (1) never leave home without a fire
extinguisher, (2) always have an extra bonnet strap attached somewhere (to
prevent the dreaded “flipped bonnet”).
From: jdonnell@direct.ca (Jim Donnelly)
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 1996 22:46:39 -0800
Subject: Vancouver Body Shop
Can any one tell me the name of a good body shop in the Vancouver BC area, I
would like to have some rust taken care of and some Quality painting done on
my 87 sovereign, The last place I went to was Craftsman with my pathfinder
and they were crap! they put the wrong color of glass in 3 times and the
body work was ugly.
Thanks in advance Jim.
From: jdonnell@direct.ca (Jim Donnelly)
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 1996 23:14:02 -0800
Subject: Vancouver Body Shop
To: jag-lovers@psy.uwa.edu.au
From: jdonnell@Direct.CA (Jim Donnelly)
Subject: Vancouver Body ShopCan any one tell me the name of a good body shop in the Vancouver BC area,
I would like to have some rust taken care of and some Quality painting done
on my 87 sovereign, The last place I went to was Craftsman with my
pathfinder and they were crap! they put the wrong color of glass in 3 times
and the body work was ugly.Thanks in advance Jim.
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 02 Mar 96 06:13:46 EST
Subject: Tappet Retainers - final report
Hi all,
I finished my tappet retainer guide installation Thursday. As I reported earlier
the marking up and drilling and threading is a process that requires ultimate
concentration and precision. I thought I had been very concentrated, but on
mounting the retainers on the inlet side the rear retainer’s
holes didn’t match up very well with the drilled holes. As ususal I stare in
amazement, looking for a plausible explanation, which doesn’t point to me as an
amateurish jaguar bodger. However I find no excuses. The inlet side is where i
drilled the holes freehanded, so it is possible for the drill to “wander” over
the aluminium even if a good starting point has been marked. The pen cross
markings were still centered around the 6mm hole, so I guees I must have marked
off more than a millemeter off center - sloppiness - I’m ashamed. This
inaccuracy can develop if the mandrel is not held perfectly perpendicular in the
hole, and if not held perfectly in the center of the hole in the retainer.The
remedy to the problem was to drill out the holes in the retainer from the
standard 6.5 mm to 8 mm and fit a ring under the allen bolt head.
The retainer on the exhaust was a tight fit in relation to the holes. I used a
soft hammer to just ease it into place. On mounting the tappet bucket it was a
very tight fit suddenly on no 5 cylinder.
The cold sweat started - the tapped giude is of course under stress. Got the
allen key out in a hurry and dismantled the retainer, drilled holes up half a
millimeter, back in and problem gone.
Thankfully the tappet guide had not fractured - How stupid can one get ? - I’m
getting out of training.
Other retainers fitted perfectly allowing me to put the allen bolts in by hand
only. I now only had to mount the new valve shims I ordered to measure (in the 4
millimeter range to suit my modified 308 degrees rallye cams).
I fitted the shims - rearranged others, mounted the cams with the marker cut-out
at front pointing downwards as I remember I had taken them off. Checking that
the bolting down of cams will not result in fouling the valves I bolt them down.
Then try to get the cams aligned with the sprocket. First exhaust side ,
sprocket losely on the cam, then turn the cam the +/-10 degrees with a blo…
big jawed pliers. Exhaust Ok. Lining up the inlet as well to fit the nearest
holes on the inlet cam sprocket - fine. Check time. Crank is at about 12-15
degrees after TDC, thus needing to turn 360 minus 15 is 345 degrees to reach
next TDC, thus the cams would need to turn 345/2 = 172 degrees, that is about
half a turn. Checking that the cams marker cut out is about half aturn before
their Top position : exhaust is , but inlet is not - its more like 150 degrees
-
- something is wrong… Turning the inlet cam back 90 degrees is another
solution , but obviously also wrong ??.
- something is wrong… Turning the inlet cam back 90 degrees is another
How did I get in this situation - according to the book cams are to be taken off
with marker cuts in top position (there is a alignment tool from jaguar which I
have)… Well when I prepared to take off the cams I remember I had the problem
that when the markers were at the top the two bolts left on each cam sprocket
(after taking the two first ones off each side) were on the bottom part of the
sprocket. And I believed to remember that I had then turned another 180 degrees
on the cams to get those bolts out while the markers then go pointing downwards.
At this point I have confused myself not knowing anymore what I remember.
Time to think this thoroughly through. A mistake in the cam timing could be
fatal. So spark plug no 6 (front one ) out and check piston position - it is up
-
- Of course since crank wheel shown 15 deg ATDC. Distributor cap off - rotor is
at 135 degrees pointing just next to a high tension cable outlet. This turns out
to be for cylinder no 6. Now which way is the rotor turning ? clockwise or
anticlockwise ? I am definately not going to turn the engine at this point.
Looking at the points they are open with the point actuator arm restin just on
one side of the distributor cam - and doublechecking with the cam lube felt
pointing downwards, the distributor cam turns thus anticlockwise. Now with
firing order 15 36 24, the next to fires is no 2 culinder with rotor at position
90 degrees. This fits with the cable - Hey we’re back on the track again.
- Of course since crank wheel shown 15 deg ATDC. Distributor cap off - rotor is
But then the cams are obviously completely wrong at the current position with
marks down. Of course they have to point up just like to book says - So I did
after all follow the book . It is dangerous to rely on memory…
Thus unbolt both cams , turn about 180 degrees and bolt down again, now the
sprocket holes fit almost to the cams. Using the big pliers to turn the cams
into position, I mentally go through the complete check again and further more
check each single cam position in relation to its other counterpart and with
respect to firing order 1 5 3 6 2 4. Now no 6 has just fired so 2 is to follow.
Are no 2 cylinder cams the next to follow on the current poistion of the cam -
Yes ! Everything then OK again. I stuff a rag down next to the cam wheel and
mount the first bolt with utmost care. Dropping a bolt down the timing chain
area is serious serious serious trouble. Either you turn the car upside down and
shake it or you dismantle bonnet radiator and fan, water pump and unbolt the
chain cover - a very very lengthy task.
Cams Ok I check the valve clearances again. Something wrong on No 1 inlet ?,
0.2mm ? No !
0.15 then? - slightly stressed - No!. 0.10 then ? - cold sweat starting in
controlled panic mode - NO!!!. 0.05 passes - NO ! NO ! NO ! NO! PANIC ! How on
earth could this happen ?. Getting the Microsoft Excel sheet out again I check
my order. 1 error on no 1 inlet. In going from intended 0.15 mm to 0.20 instead
I had added 0.05 thickness to the shim instead of subtracting. CLASSICAL ERROR.
I swear over my own stupidity, typical non-engineer error not doublechecking the
calculation for plausibility. I’m getting out of training or maybe just
older…
So the shim is too thick by 0.1 mm. Not a problem for a master DIY’er. Cam out
again, shim out down in the cellar, mount shim in vice and try to file it down.
I can’t control the movement of the file over the shim surface - it bites in the
egdes only. Instead mount file in vice and slide shim over file surface turning
90 degrees every 10 times. 40 times over the file is 2 hundreds of a
millimeter, only another 200 times then… My fingers hurt. But 5 minutes later
the shim is on measure.
Shim back in cam on and measure clearance - now spot on 0.20 mm. 45 minutes for
this operation only.
Remaining operation is covers on etc. Try to turn engine, - perfect - no WHACK
Planggggg, Hsssss sounds so the valves are at least not fouling, Petrol pump on
and fire up - perfect start - engine ticking over fast - no apparent problems.
Took the car out for a drive 25 km and home again to listen for this expensive
clicking it had before - gone - totally gone.
Operation complete - 100 % succes even if crossing some very dangerous areas on
the way.
In retrospect I would say that this retainer fitment operation is an operation
DIY’er should only attemp if really confident. I feel really confident but
realize that even with many years experience, I have been very close to causing
serious extra trouble.
Hope this story is of some value to other members.
Regards Jeffrey Gram '78 XJ6 Coupe with one less problem.
End of jag-lovers-digest V1 #400
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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 4 March 1996 Volume 01 : Number 401
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 02 Mar 96 06:13:51 EST
Subject: Replies and XJ-S Instrument question
Mike Cogswell,
The retrofit XJS instrument panel is an aftermarket item by a keen Jaguar
specialist company Autostyle. If had an XJS I would fit this panel - it is as
beatiful as Jaguar would have made it. It uses standard XJ series instruments.
It was not a Jaguar Cars Ltd production item until in the beginning of the
1990’ies . Price is as I remember 395 Pounds - not overly expensive.
Regards Jeffrey Gram
From: JQJF14A@prodigy.com (MR JOHN W SHUCK)
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 1996 09:42:55 EST
Subject: Lister at Daytona 24-hour
Thanks for the info…I’ll forward this to the folks in the UK. I had
warned them that the transition to the banking from the road course
had always bottomed out other cars…so increasing spring rate would
be a good idea…The real enemy is weight. They are in the process of
building a new tub right now…a lighter one. The Bugatti was neat…
very quiet for some reason…the 4 turbos I guess. The Lister did
pull 1.23 G’s in the corners, but this probably not as good as others.
Again thanks…I going to Le Mans so I’ll keep you posted. John
Shuck,xk120 E-type other brit stuff
From: Wes Grady wesgrady@csbh.mhv.net
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 10:28:25 -0500
Subject: Last try!
Ok, last try.
I am looking for a good, unrestored, but complete XK-120, 140, 150 or =
E-type. Must be a roadster ( I won’t fit in the coupes!) I intend to =
restore the car, so I want a good start and not a rust bucket. I don’t =
want to have to search out parts that are non-existent, so I want a =
relatively complete car. If you have such a beast, and live anywhere =
within reason of New York, please e-mail me the particulars.
ALSO, my best friend is looking for an XK-150 or XK-150S COUPE (he is =
smaller than yours truly). Same conditions.
Thanks.
Wes Grady
P.O. Box 1117
Hopewell Junction, NY 12533 (60 miles north of NYC, east bank of the =
Hudson)
914.227.6700
914.227.4041 =3D fax
wesgrady@mhv.net =3D e-mail
From: BMack7316@aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 12:24:43 -0500
Subject: Re: the beast is wounded
On Fri, Mar 1, Nick J. wrote:
“Oh, and yes, I did have another baby a week ago A boy,…”
That is a newsworthy accomplishment when the male of our species gives birth,
especially more than once, ha ha!
Sorry some of us had to learn the lesson on the fire extinguisher at your
expense too – I’m getting one today. Imagine the result if you didn’t have
one!
Brad Mack
85 XJ6
85 XJS
92 Pathfinder
From: ndater@gnu.uvm.edu (Noah Dater)
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 13:33:49 -0500
Subject: Bumped Jag
Last night the campus police drove into my parked car while trying
to aprehend some student who was bringing beer into the dorms. They
“slipped” on the sand and slid into my car (what about antilock brakes).
They hit it hard enough to push about 2 ft over a curb. Apart from the
bumper being scratched I was wondering if there could be any other damage
inflicted that I can’t notice. The car was in park at the time. If anyone
has some ideas for areas that I should check out it would be helpful. The
car is a 1983 XJ6 auto.
This kind of thing makes you wonder about what kind of drivers the
police really are.
Noah Dater
“When I die, I’d like to go peacefully.
In my sleep.
Like my grandfather.
Not screaming,
like the passengers in his car…”
– anonymous–
-----------------------------------------------------------
Noah Dater ----ndater@moose.uvm.edu----
Burlington, VT
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 13:46:39 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ-S Open/Closed Loop
Kirby: I may have missed it, but I don’t recall this topic in your
handbook. Is all this common knowledge? What do you think about all of this?
The subject hasn’t been addressed in my booklet because, frankly, I have
been unable to find out WHY Jaguar would even provide the possibility of
operating in open-loop mode, much less have the car operate in that mode in
P or N. Seems to me the car should ALWAYS be in closed-loop after it warms
up enough for the oxygen sensors to work. I have asked Neal for reasoning
behind an open-loop mode, am awaiting enlightenment as are you.
The only reasoning I can think of: If you put the car in open-loop mode and
then adjust the idle mixture via the adjustment in the ECU (which, according
to the book, should only be adjusted in closed-loop mode), you could
conceivably FORCE the car to pass emissions in P or N while violating
emissions as soon as you put it in D. Of course, such a plan would be
underhanded on the part of Jaguar, and they wouldn’t describe the procedure
that way in the repair manuals. Hmmmmm.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 13:46:42 -0500
Subject: Fuel injector testing
Of course one has to check the fuel injectors. On a electronic fuel
injection on
a Jag I don’t know in detail how to fool the injection to think the engine is
running while it is not…
To do a simpler test, one can merely connect 12V to the injector and forget
about trying to fool the ECU. This will test to see if the injector itself
is working properly (good spray pattern, etc.) but will not check the EFI
circuitry or controls. Obviously, it depends on what you wanna check. By
combining the two methods, you may be able to isolate whether an EFI problem
is in the injectors themselves or in the ECU/wiring.
Don’t leave 12V on the injector. Have the fuel pressure on (jumper the fuel
pump relay) and then just touch the 12V to the injector for short bursts.
You should see a consistent spray when the injector is on (same for all
injectors) and NO FLOW when the injector is off.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: “Rodgers H. Bestgen Jr” rodgers@tiac.net
Date: Sat, 02 Mar 1996 14:07:13 -0500
Subject: Sender: owner-jag-lovers
please get me off this list
From: CHRIS GILDEA 101374.3465@compuserve.com
Date: 02 Mar 96 16:13:17 EST
Subject: Subscription to the Jag-lovers list
Scott
This is Chris Gildea Compuserve 101374,3465 again
I seem to be having a problem in subscribing to the list
I sent a message to Majordomo@psy.uwa.edu.au but the responce that I received
was that it did not recognize various commands, and I should send messages in
the body of an email message.
To me that is the problem, will you be able to help?
Thanks
Chris.
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 02 Mar 96 17:57:40 EST
Subject: CR calculation, boring and skimming.
Hi Dick, Hunt & list
After Dick’s reply to Me and Hunt, I got the algebra book out - not entirely
succesful but here it goes. I set up a general formula for calculating the
increased Compression Ratio. :
From: Hunt Dabney
I just played with calculating the change to compression ratio given 0.030"
overbore. I could not find a book value for stroke, so used 230 cu-in
divided by the bore area (total) to arrive at 4.1602".
230 Cubic inch for the 3.8 liter Jag engine is not completely correct since
actual volume is 3781 cc (Cubic centimeters) and 230 cu-in is 3769.025 cc.
Before you think I’m splitting hairs see this :
3781 / 3769 = 1.003177. Multiply this with your estimated stroke of 4.1602" and
get 4.173418, this being 0.218 Thou off the correct value : 4.1732" or within
0.005 % !!! - well done Hunt !
DW>The manual says for the 3.8 liter engine 87mm x 106mm or 3.425" x 4.173"
DW>but I didn’t use the stroke to calculate the change. I made the following
DW>assumptions:
DW>CR = Volume at TDC/ Volume at BDC, or simplifying…
DW>CR = Volume above head surface/ [Volume above + Volume below]
DW>(simplification)
DW>When you bore the cylinders out you only affect Volume below (same
DW>simplification)
Dick - this is not a simplification - it is the definition of Compression ratio.
CR is the volume in the combustion chamber , i.e. with piston at Top Dead
Center, divided by combustion chamber volume added to the swept volume (bore
area times stroke). If “A” is the combustion chamber volume and B the swept
volume, then the compression (in Bar) is (A+B) / A .
DW>The change in compression ratio for an 8:1 engine becomes = 1/8 + 7/8 * [new
DW>lower vol/ old lower vol]. Ratio of new to old lower volume for 30 thou
DW>overbore for 3.8 liter engine is 3.455^2/3.425^2, independent of the stroke.
DW>Total change in CR is then 8 * 1.0154 which is 8.123:1, only 1.5%
DW>increase. Hardly noticeable.
To put Dick’s calculation into general terms :
Assume A = Combustion chamber volume, B = swept volume of piston. C= compression
in bars (or “times”).
we have that
C= (A+B) / A (equation 1)
=> CA = A+B (equation 2)
=> (C-1)A = B (equation 3)
When boring to oversize the bore area increases, while the stroke stay the same
. The compression is a function of the ratio of the new bore diameter (or
radius) to the old diameter.
Thus when boring “B” increases, A stays the same. The increase in B volume is
thus a factor of :
RR * PI / rr * PI, where R is the new oversize radius, and r is the old
radius (equation 4)
In (4) PI is redundant thus the ratio becomes (RR) / (rr)
If (3) is used to denote the increased B after a rebore, and inserted in to
equation 1 we get the identity equation 1=1, however it can be used to obtain
the new CR ratio as a function of the old CR and the rebore to old bore ratio :
After rebore the old volume B becomes the new volume (B (RR) / (r*r) ) = Bnew
(new name)
From (3) we get thus Bnew =(C-1)A * (RR) / (rr).
Using (1) we get CRnew = (A + (C-1) * (RR) / (rr) ) / A, where “C” is the old
CR ratio. (equation 5)
Using the 3.8 liter 0.030" rebore and inserting in (5) we get :
CRold = 8 , Thus from (1) convince yourself that A = 1 and B=7 is a solution.
A=2 and B=14 is also a solution, but the important part to realise is that the
ratio B/A stays constant for a given CR.
Thus : (5) => CRnew = ( 1 + (8-1) * (3.4553.455) / (3.4253.425) ) / 1 = 8.123
From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 19:22:59 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ-S Open/Closed Loop
At 01:46 PM 3/2/96 -0500, Kirby Palm wrote:
The only reasoning I can think of: If you put the car in open-loop mode and
then adjust the idle mixture via the adjustment in the ECU (which, according
to the book, should only be adjusted in closed-loop mode), you could
conceivably FORCE the car to pass emissions in P or N while violating
emissions as soon as you put it in D. Of course, such a plan would be
underhanded on the part of Jaguar, and they wouldn’t describe the procedure
that way in the repair manuals. Hmmmmm.
Is this a workaround to pass the cars which fail emissions tests because
they are in open loop? It does have a certain Jaguar logic about it.
Regards,
John
Napoli
From: JQJF14A@prodigy.com (MR JOHN W SHUCK)
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 1996 20:52:06 EST
Subject: brake fluid.
here’s a quickie…anyone know the difference between Dot 3 and Dot
4 brake fluid. I used Dot 3 where Dot 4 was required…unknowingly.
Now no clutch…leaking out the slave. I always thought Dot 5 was
silicone…wrong. Thanks…John Shuck…xk120, e-type
From: Tom Graham TGraham@internetMCI.COM
Date: Sat, 02 Mar 1996 17:59:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Thermostat adventures
- – [ From: Tom Graham * EMC.Ver #2.3 ] –
Subject: Re: Thermostat adventures
Ken writes-
This reminds me, to remind all of you out there, that if you >are
going to replace a hose be sure to make a length ways cut in it and >then
peel it off. Do not try to just pull it off or one time you will >end up
with a fitting attached to the hose.
Been there, done that. Yes indeed, always split the hose. It will come
off easier not to mention saving skinned knuckles and pulling off the
fitting. You’re going to trash the hose anyway, so slitting it makes no
difference. Cherio - Tom
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sat, 02 Mar 1996 20:47:54 -0600
Subject: Replacing Front Rotors on XJ6
Well, I bit the bullet and paid $67.50 each for two new front rotors. I was
not fully convinced that the old ones were warped, but I was down to the
bottom of the barrel.
I learned once again that the Haynes manual is a bunch of crap.
For anyone contemplating replaceing the front rotors, throw your Haynes
manual back on the shelf and follow these directions for an XJ6 series 3.
Before you start, you will need an adjustable cressent to remove the axle
nut, a 3/4" socket to remove the stearing to hub bolts, 3/8" socket to
remove the rotor to hub bolts, and some safety wire and if available some
safety wire pliers.
-
Do not, as the Haynes manual tells you to do, remove the bolts that
secure the rotor to the hub first. Unless you are realy into dammaged
knuckles. It is dificult and totaly uneeded. -
First, loosen the lug nuts on both sides, jack the front end up, and
finish removing the two front wheels. Place jack stands under the jacking
pionts at the front of the front doors. -
Second, remove the cotter pin, axle nut and washer from the end of the
stub axle. Leave the bearing in there as it is hard to remove until you
pull the hub anyway. -
Third, Turn the steering wheel toward the side away from tghe side you
are working on as far as it will go. -
Remove safety wire in the two bolts that fasten the stearing arm to the
hub carrier/caliper and remove the lower, long, bolt that secures the
stearing arm to the brake caliper and hub carrier. -
This part is impossible, but everyone says do it. Watch where the shims
come from and how many there are. You wont be able to do this and they will
fall out and bounce merrily around the driveway when everything is loosened.
Probably two of them. I dont think it is important and I will explain that
later. -
Remove the upper, short, bolt that secures the brake caliper to the
wheel. Now is when you collect up any shims that fall. They wont fall
until both bolts are loose and that is why you cant tell where they come
from. Even if you could tell which bolt they came out from there are two
places under each bolt where they might have been. -
Now loosen the bold behind the shock absorber that holds the stearing
arm to the hub carrier. -
Now before moving the caliper, use a screw driver to spread the brake
pads pressing them back into the pistons. If you do this now replacing the
calipers will be a cinch. -
Swing the caliper back away from the rotor and have some wooden blocks
handy to stack up under it to hold it up until you get the new rotor into
place and are ready to replace the caliper. -
Pull the rotor and hub off while holding your hand under the end of the
axle to catch the bearing as it falls out. -
Put the hub/rotor on the work bench and remove the bolts (3/8") that
hold the rotor to the hub. Install the new rotor in its place. -
Now reverse the process.
-
When you come to the shims, your guess is as good as mine. There seems
to be no procedure for determining where they go or wheather you need them
or not. Since we are dealing with a brake pad that is free to move the
distance required (whatever that is) to get to the rotor I dont see the need
for them. But if by some miracle you can figure out where they went and you
have three hands and an eye on the end of your index finger you may want to
replace them. I ended up putting both the shims on the left side under the
lower stearing arm to caliper interface. On the right side one went there
and the other in my tool box. After an hour and a mashed left index finger
I decided that I could not see the need for them and gave up. The brakes
seem to work just fine, so maybe they needed the shim in the tool box to be
in the tool box. -
When you put the new safety wire into the two stearing to hub carrier
you will need to make sure you know what you are doing and make sure the
direction of tension is in the direction of tightening the bolt. If you are
unsure, get someone to demonstrate it for you or else you will someday loose
your stearing!!!
Jim
“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil
From: REMANKING@aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 22:21:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Various - XK120 feedback
As to stamping on bottom of jack I am sure it is the date code. Dick’s OTS
is 66 after mine and his is coded 7/52 and mine is 6/52, (my car built
8/20/52, his built 8/29/52). As to side lamps my original lenses were gone
(chrome housing type) and I bought repo’s from Bill Tracy which have the “490
Designed in England” lettering which he says was copied from some originals.
The photo in the Lucas catalog shows only " 490 Lucas" on these Ienses. I
also have about 4 sets of original lenses from the painted housing later cars
and they are as described previously (concentric circles) with “Made in
England Lucas 513” on them. As to engine numbers mine is W5684-8 and a local
car that is 12 chassis numbers before mine has W5657-8 which is 27 units
before mine. Replacement engines or Mark 7 in between? Dick how many units
is your engine after mine? Speaking of lenses I have seen numerous
variations in rear lenses. These rear lenses are still available from Lucas,
as are the internals, and I have looked at some recent stock and the tooling
must be really wearing out after all these years as the lettering is barely
legible. The color has changed a lot also as the later one are a much
lighter red, while the originals are very dark red. There is also different
lettering on these through the years (I have seen 3 different types) but I
would have have to go and look if anyone is interested what they are. When I
get time once in awhile I check through old catalogs (I have access to almost
every Lucas / Girling / Lockhead catalog back to the late 40’s) and am
sometimes amazed at what XK parts Lucas still has in stock (not a lot but
more than I would think we would have). The photos in these catalogs are
wonderful, along with componet breakdowns. If anyone ever needs a copy of
something from one of these let me know. One of our salesman recently
retired after 45 years and all his extra copies were sent off to Moss Motors
for their reference. I finished off my interior a couple of weeks ago
(thanks to all the help from all of you with the detail questions) and it is
stunning. I had the car out this weekend and had 3 different indiviuals say
“beautiful MG”!! Oh well makes for some conversation explaining what it
really is. My car is Bronze with biscuit and tan which It seems is fairly
rare as nobody in the Jag owners club (even Bruce Carnachan) can ever recall
seeing a Bronze one before. Does anyone have any info on color percentages
or breakdowns? Has Jag ever published color or trim Breakdowns?
Regards,
Jamie
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 19:40:13 -0800
Subject: Postlude to blinker wierdness
Thanks to Kirby and others, who explained the blinker bulb out indicator. As
suggested, I tried replacing the type 1137 bulbs with 1157. I only replaced
the front turn indicators (both bulbs good) with 1157 bulbls, now everything
works fine.
Hunt
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 1996 20:49:51 -0800
Subject: Re: CR calculation, boring and skimming.
Hi Jeffery-
Agree - (hard not to!) with the bore only change. We were also looking at
the effect of skimming the head 0.060" or so. I assumed that the combustion
chamber was of about the same diameter as the bore and that the cross
section removed by skimming is essentially cylindrical. Boring is a minor
effect, but skimming is pretty noticable.
Hunt
At 05:57 PM 3/2/96 EST, Jeffrey Gram wrote:
Hi Dick, Hunt & list
After Dick’s reply to Me and Hunt, I got the algebra book out - not entirely
succesful but here it goes. I set up a general formula for calculating the
increased Compression Ratio. :From: Hunt Dabney
I just played with calculating the change to compression ratio given 0.030"
overbore. I could not find a book value for stroke, so used 230 cu-in
divided by the bore area (total) to arrive at 4.1602".230 Cubic inch for the 3.8 liter Jag engine is not completely correct since
actual volume is 3781 cc (Cubic centimeters) and 230 cu-in is 3769.025 cc.
Before you think I’m splitting hairs see this :
3781 / 3769 = 1.003177. Multiply this with your estimated stroke of 4.1602" and
get 4.173418, this being 0.218 Thou off the correct value : 4.1732" or within
0.005 % !!! - well done Hunt !DW>The manual says for the 3.8 liter engine 87mm x 106mm or 3.425" x 4.173"
DW>but I didn’t use the stroke to calculate the change. I made the following
DW>assumptions:
DW>CR = Volume at TDC/ Volume at BDC, or simplifying…
DW>CR = Volume above head surface/ [Volume above + Volume below]
DW>(simplification)
DW>When you bore the cylinders out you only affect Volume below (same
DW>simplification)Dick - this is not a simplification - it is the definition of Compression
ratio.
CR is the volume in the combustion chamber , i.e. with piston at Top Dead
Center, divided by combustion chamber volume added to the swept volume (bore
area times stroke). If “A” is the combustion chamber volume and B the swept
volume, then the compression (in Bar) is (A+B) / A .DW>The change in compression ratio for an 8:1 engine becomes = 1/8 + 7/8 *
[new
DW>lower vol/ old lower vol]. Ratio of new to old lower volume for 30 thou
DW>overbore for 3.8 liter engine is 3.455^2/3.425^2, independent of the
stroke.
DW>Total change in CR is then 8 * 1.0154 which is 8.123:1, only 1.5%
DW>increase. Hardly noticeable.To put Dick’s calculation into general terms :
Assume A = Combustion chamber volume, B = swept volume of piston. C=
compression
in bars (or “times”).we have that
C= (A+B) / A (equation 1)
=> CA = A+B (equation 2)
=> (C-1)A = B (equation 3)When boring to oversize the bore area increases, while the stroke stay the same
. The compression is a function of the ratio of the new bore diameter (or
radius) to the old diameter.
Thus when boring “B” increases, A stays the same. The increase in B volume is
thus a factor of :RR * PI / rr * PI, where R is the new oversize radius, and r is the old
radius (equation 4)In (4) PI is redundant thus the ratio becomes (RR) / (rr)
If (3) is used to denote the increased B after a rebore, and inserted in to
equation 1 we get the identity equation 1=1, however it can be used to obtain
the new CR ratio as a function of the old CR and the rebore to old bore ratio :After rebore the old volume B becomes the new volume (B (RR) / (r*r) ) =
Bnew
(new name)From (3) we get thus Bnew =(C-1)A * (RR) / (rr).
Using (1) we get CRnew = (A + (C-1) * (RR) / (rr) ) / A, where “C” is
the old
CR ratio. (equation 5)Using the 3.8 liter 0.030" rebore and inserting in (5) we get :
CRold = 8 , Thus from (1) convince yourself that A = 1 and B=7 is a solution.
A=2 and B=14 is also a solution, but the important part to realise is that the
ratio B/A stays constant for a given CR.Thus : (5) => CRnew = ( 1 + (8-1) * (3.4553.455) / (3.4253.425) ) / 1 = 8.123
From: jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk (Stefan Schulz)
Date: Sat, 02 Mar 1996 07:21:05 GMT
Subject: Mechanic’s Blue / Re: follow-up to differential trouble
In message 9602292228.AA6900@worldcom-45.worldcom.com Jan Wikstroem writes:
the old-fashioned Mechanic’s Blue has to be applied
What is Mechanic’s Blue ?
Regards,
Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 1996 09:58:58 -0500
Subject: Replacing Front Rotors on XJ6
- When you come to the shims, your guess is as good as mine.
A question for the group: Has anyone ever seen these shims installed
ANYWHERE other than between the steering arm and the brake caliper?
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 1996 14:15:15 -0500
Subject: Total Seal piston rings
I was talking to a friend of mine who has umpteen years of experience in
racing. I asked him about Total Seal piston rings, and we talked about
them. He expressed a couple ideas that I’d like to bounce off you jag-lovers.
For those unfamiliar with Total Seal piston rings, I shall describe them.
Each ring actually consists of two rings that fit together into one groove.
The larger part, which appears to be of iron, has a step on one side near
the inside edge. The smaller part, which looks more like a really thin
chrome ring, is installed so that its inner edge sits on that step. The
gaps of these two parts are staggered, so that each one covers the gap of
the other. Hence, a much lower leakage rate.
Supposedly, the two different materials permit a quick break-in combined
with long life.
My friend is sold on Total Seal rings – for the SECOND ring. He uses a
normal ring in the top position. When asked why, he explained that the real
problem with the top ring is wear on the groove itself. With the cyclic
loading combined with the contamination from combustion byproducts, the top
groove in the piston is wallowed out. It not only gets wider, but it also
develops a slight taper on the sides of the groove, which is not good. To
counteract this problem, he uses a normal ring in the top groove and the
Total Seal in the second groove, which doesn’t suffer as much groove wear.
The problem of wear on the top groove is common knowledge; some long
distance diesel engines actually have a special insert cast into the pistons
forming the top groove out of a harder substance to minimize wear problems.
However, I’m not sure I understand why a normal ring has an advantage over
Total Seal rings in this area. This friend mentioned that he feels that a
standard iron ring is made of a softer material than either half of the
Total Seal ring. He also mentioned that, with this setup, the upper ring
may act as a “heat shield” and do more to protect the Total Seal ring from
combustion heat and shock than actually provide any sealing value. What do
you guys think?
The other thing is that he installs the Total Seal rings with the thin piece
on the bottom of the groove, and the thicker main part on the top. This
seemed backwards to me; since the pressure is on the top, I’d want the
thinner part on the top with the thicker piece underneath to support it.
Does anyone know how Total Seal officially recommends installing their rings?
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 4 March 1996 Volume 01 : Number 402
From: JQJF14A@prodigy.com (MR JOHN W SHUCK)
Date: Sat, 02 Mar 1996 14:33:24 EST
Subject: Total Seal piston rings
That’s how Total Seal recommends the rings be installed…small ring
on the bottom. These rings works very well. I have used them on my
Triumph motorcycle and they last and give great compression. Haven’t
used then on a jag yet, but any improvement is great. The pistons
must be sent in to Total Seal for machining to allow for the
additional ring. Nascar guys use these. Incidently the sotck car
guys can be a great source of tools equipment, etc. Examples include
cheap stainless valves for small block Chevies for B50 BSA’s, etc.
They make things in large volumes and the prices are very competitive.
In the US, check Circle Track Magazine. Lots of ads. One thing I
have wanted to try that they use is extrude honing for intake
manifolds. This is where they hook the mainfold up to a machine that
pumps this gritty stuff through the ports…instant port job. John
Shuck xk120, e-type
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 96 13:45:36 PST
Subject: Wood in XJS
I chose to go with the installed instruments, and just ordered the wood
panel to replace that hideous black plastic. I did the ski-slope, radio
surround, ignition and lights switches too. And very nice they are, IMHO.They don’t have a dramatic effect on the interior – they simply look as if
they were part of the car from the day it was built.
I’ve heard/read about this alot: folks complaining about the lack of wood in
earlier XJS’s. I happen to hold the contrary opinion (and probably the only
person in the world who thinks this way): I think early XJS’s are just
fine without the wood. When you think about it, nobody ever complained that
the E-type has no wood. Even though the XJS is no E-type, it’s still a
sports coupe, so it doesn’t need to get so dressed up. The current line
of Jags have beautiful interiors, but they almost have too much wood, to
the point of being ostentatious. If an interior is well designed, it doesn’t
need so much wood to look good.
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: “steve cosgrove” steven_cosgrove@msn.com
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 96 22:16:21 UT
Subject: brake booster - car to Europe
I received such an excellent response from “Jag-lovers” when looking for a
flex coupler for my Mark I, I thought I’d try again.
Question 1. Someone, sometime, somewhere disconnected the brake booster on my
'56 Mark I 2.4. I’ve rebuilt the brakes, and it stops OK. But I really need
to fix the booster. Does anyone have any hints for accompishing this? Will
other brake boosters fit?
Question 2. My standard gearbox leaks (what’s new?). But it also shifts hard
second to third, third to second, when it gets warmed up. I keep the oil up
(Castrol 30). I wonder if it would be better to try to find a good used box
or rebuild this one? What fits?
Question 3. This is the tough one. In June, I’m going to Germany to work for
three years. I could store the Jag here. But I’d really rather take it with.
My employer will ship one car for me as part of the employment contract. Any
thoughts on shipping the old girl over? I would think parts would be easier
to get than here. Of course, the 2.4 isn’t exactly great for the autobahn,
but I’ll be buying another everyday car anyway.
Thanks!
From: “Charles Rahm” crahm@saturn.gan.net
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 1996 17:21:47 -0500
Subject: Fire Extinguishers
Dear All
Recent topic of carrying a fire extinguisher in you car:
Be sure and purchase one of a decent size. Smaller ones do not have
enough spray in them to put out a fire (maybe 5 seconds of spray).
Besides, it usually takes a second or two to get the thing pointed in
the right spot as well.
Charles Rahm
crahm@gan.net
'71, '79, '87 XJ6s
From: sfisher@sola.com.au (Scot Fisher)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 96 20:05 CST
Subject: Membership N = 618
Greetings Jaguarphiles,
I was just doing some administrative stuff at the mailing-list site and noticed
that between the digest and real-time forums there were 618 members. About
300 on each list.
We certainly have grown in the last 3 years
Regards Scott.
Scott Fisher [sfisher@sola.com.au] PH: (08)329-28341.
_--_|\ N
SOLA OPTICAL / \ W + E
International Holdings Research Center _.–*_/ S
Adelaide, South Australia v
Joy is a Jaguar XJ6 with a flat battery, a blown oil seal and an unsympathetic
wife, 9km outside of a small remote town, 3:15am on a cold wet winters morning.
From: tom.omalley@channel1.com (Tom Omalley)
Date: Sun, 03 Mar 1996 18:03:00 -0640
Subject: xj12 diff.
Dear Jag-o-philes…
I’ve got acquaintance here in Massachusetts who is trying to locate
complete differential and rear axel assembly for his Series II, XJ12
sedan. He believes that the XJ6 unit is a different ratio, but is
uncertain about the XJS.
Pleae feel free to e-mail me if you know of any leads close by.
If you’d care to call him direct, his name is Al Kresco and you
can reach him at 508-867-3064.
Regards…Tom O’Malley <'74 Spit…still hibernating>
From: ewilliam@cisco.com (Evan Williams)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 10:51:19 +1000
Subject: Re: Strange steering noises (XJ)
Stealth (5-spoke alloy) with 235-60 15" VR Bridgestone Eagers. I’ll go for
different tyres next time, though - these sound like four ruined wheel
bearings
at low speed on smooth roads.
- Jan
Ihave been c,hasing a wheel bearing sound for some time, repacked good ones
and replaced two still have this sound. My wife think’s it’s coming from
the front, I think it’s more the rear and the kid’s just ask me to turn up
the music. After your comment I think it could be the Bridgstone G Grids
all round (great grip in the wet).
Evan Williams
Account Manager Federal Region
Email: ewilliam@cisco.com || ||
Phone: 61-6-2572233 || ||
Fax: 61-6-2574922 |||| ||||
Mobile: 61-0419236992 …:||||||:…:||||||:…
Page 61-24306381 Cisco Systems Australia
XJ40 (87) Critics are very often people who speak
Nissen Skyline (88) out with the full confidence of ignorance
W.G.P
From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 12:38:00 +1100 (EST)
Subject: Cam phasing
Hi everyone,
I was having a little tinker with a software package that I have floating
around on my PC that models engine performance. The inputs include various
engine dimensions such as bore, stroke, CR, inlet and exhaust dimensions,
valve and cam specs etc. I find it handy when deciding where to invest
time and effort (not to mention money) as I trust its results at least
qualitatively. For example, it predicted derestricting the exhaust would
increase output by close to 10% at high revs.
Anyway, I was toying with the idea of advancing the intake cam to increase
torque through most of the rev range (<4000 rpm) at the expence of a couple
of hp above that range.
Questions:
-
- has anyone tried this (I was thinking of up to 10 deg advance)?
-
- how is it accurately done?
-
- will the increased valve overlap affect idle stability?
-
- is there any chance of the inlet and exhaust valves hitting each other?
-
- why am I bothering anyway?
For reference, my '74 series II 4.2 has standard cams (for now), SIII
inlet valves, SIII injection manifold, stainless steel extractors,
programmable efi and distributorless ignition.
regards,
Robert
Robert Dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 4 Mar 96 12:57:13
Subject: Re: Mechanic’s Blue / Re: follow-up to differential trouble
In principle, Mechanic’s Blue (a trade name I was taught long ago) is a light
grease containing a strong blue pigment. Last time, I cheated and used
linseed-oil based pigment additive for house paint. Brush a light coat on one
part, run it with the meshing part and “read” the smears to see how the bits
mesh. You can use anything that makes a really thin coat, is highly visible and
washes off easily when you’re finished.
Regards,
- -Jan
From: sfisher@sola.com.au (Scot Fisher)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 96 23:21 CST
Subject: Caliper shims (was: Replacing Front Rotors on XJ6)
- When you come to the shims, your guess is as good as mine.
A question for the group: Has anyone ever seen these shims installed
ANYWHERE other than between the steering arm and the brake caliper?
No. I have two shims each side at the lower bolt of the steeting arm.
Putting them back is no problem, you do up the top steering arm bolt
then use a screwdriver to lever the bottom away from the caliper,
slip in the shim, and release the tension on the arm and the shim
will stay put while you slip the lower bolt through. Nothing beats
standing around watching experienced Jag mechanics for picking up
these (‘subconscious’ to them) sort of tips
If you really want a worry about shims and where they come from then
the diff is the one. Last time I pulled my diff out shimms went
everywhere I’m 80% sure I got them back where they belong…this
involved some lengthy detective work matching rust-stain, oil and
wear patterns on the faces of the shims and the diff.
Regards Scott.
Scott Fisher [sfisher@sola.com.au] PH: (08)329-28341.
_--_|\ N
SOLA OPTICAL / \ W + E
International Holdings Research Center _.–*_/ S
Adelaide, South Australia v
Joy is a Jaguar XJ6 with a flat battery, a blown oil seal and an unsympathetic
wife, 9km outside of a small remote town, 3:15am on a cold wet winters morning.
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 4 Mar 96 13:32:18
Subject: Re: Fire Extinguishers
If I may butt in here, I’d like to add to Charles Rahm’s comments with a couple
of things I learned from the Portable Extinguishers course with the Bush Fire
Service. Now that we’re not allowed to use halogen extinguishers, the only real
option is a good size pressurised powder extinguisher. There are two vital
points to remember about powder extinguishers:
-
The object is to suffocate the fire with a cloud of powder, so you must
stand well back, like a couple of meters with a small unit. If you’re too
close, you’ll only get localised hard cakes of powder, which the air will
bypass and keep the fire going. To use the extinguisher effectively, this is
something you need to practice. See your local Fire Brigade, or use up your
time-expired extinguisher on some petrol-soaked rags! If I sound like an
evangelist here, this is because I put out a 1.2m (4ft) square tray of burning
petrol with a one-second burst of powder from 6 m (20 ft) away. Hallelujah! -
Due to vibrations in the car, the powder tends to pack down (takes longer in
a Jag, natch) so the extinguisher doesn’t work any more. Make a point of
turning it upside down and shaking it every time you service the car; you can
feel when the powder is loose.
I’d like to add the advice to mount the extinguisher in a clip in the passenger
footwell. When I have a fire under the bonnet, I don’t want to rush around to
the back and fight with the lock… I don’t know about other models, but XJs
have plenty of space for this.
-
- Jan
** Do I straddle the fence on issues? Well, yes and no. **
From: Craig Tiano ctiano@voicenet.com
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 96 22:21:47 EST
Subject: Re: Membership N = 618
Joy is a Jaguar XJ6 with a flat battery, a blown oil seal and an unsympathetic
wife, 9km outside of a small remote town, 3:15am on a cold wet winters morning.
No, Joy is a 1967 Lincoln with a flat battery 5 miles from home in the
middle of nowhere on Thanksgiving day (a national holiday here in the US,
falling on the third saturday in November) while bringing the beasty home
from the previous owner who swore that the car would have no problem being
driven 15 miles and finding out that every tow place the auto club called
was closed while your wife of 8 years sits there fuming in silence in 5
degree weather.
Craig
From: blackmx5@usa.pipeline.com (Lawrence Karpman)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 03:28:54 GMT
Subject: XJ-6 SIII Fuel System
Can someone explain the SIII XJ-6 fuel system to me? Specificall, the fuel
flow to engien & return of excess to the tanks.
I have a REAL problem with mine. I have posted this before, but I do not
believe that I explained it fully, based upon responses.
If I fill my right tank more than about half full, the car will, within a
few miles, buck and stall everytime I try to accelerate. It will restart
just fine, but even the slightest pressure on the pedal causes a stall. In
addition, fuel will pour out of the area under right front fender area
where the charcoal device is located (so I am told).
It does not matter which tank I select with the fuel switch to cause this.
Eventually, the car will run normally. This problem NEVER happens if I run
only on the left tank, and avoid filling the right more than half.
I have been told it is the changeover valve. Without understanding the
system fuel flow, I’m perplexed. If the valve is not working properly, and
unneeded fuel is being returned to the right tank, regardless of switch
position, and the tank is not full, why is it overflowing. Seems to me the
“fuel return valves” may be in the picture somewhere.
Looking for help.
Larry Karpman
'85 XJ-6
From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 15:02:54 +1100 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-6 SIII Fuel System
Larry asked,
Can someone explain the SIII XJ-6 fuel system to me? Specificall, the fuel
flow to engien & return of excess to the tanks.
The SIII has a single pump which draws from one of the two tanks and should
return to the same tank. The flow into the pump is selected by an elaborate
‘T’ piece which contains a solenoid which switches one of two inputs. The
return line under the car, splits into two lines, each with a solenoid valve
so that fuel is returned to only one tank. It is possible that the valve
returning to your right tank is stuck open or perhaps the wiring is faulty.
Does the right tank actually fill up with fuel, even when it runs well using
the left tank?
Robert
Robert Dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 1996 20:51:24 -0800
Subject: More E-Heater Pipes…
Today I finally installed my new stainless heater pipes. ('62 E). I ordered
tham from Terry’s in December and have had them in the garage since. Last
week I installed, marked and drilled the rivet holes, ran out of time and
put it away.
Today I went to install them and discovered that my rivet gun would not fit
up close enough to the pipe to allow me to rivet. So, off in search of a
suitable rivet gun… No luck, as the best I could find would only work at
one angle, which would not work for most of the positions. hmmm… OK, I
give up. 18 pieces of 3/8" 6-32 stainless cap head allen screw later, tapped
the flanges and in it went (+loctite). Not stock, but I’ll keep on the
lookout for an appropriate tool for later.
On to the windshield jets. With much help from my 11 year old son Michael,
whose arms will still fit through the access holes reasonably well, we got
both old ones off, and the left side on in without too much problem. THe
right side jet is really tough – we are plotting ways to reinstall it for
next week! (I really don’t want to remove the wiper mechanism unless I have to!)
Best to all,
Hunt
From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Mon, 04 Mar 96 00:29:33 EST
Subject: XJ-6 SIII Fuel System
From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
*** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FC42
*** INTERNET ADDRESS - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM *****************
Subject: XJ-6 SIII Fuel System
Larry, even though I have a different model than yours, and mine is
a carbie car, I can maybe help you here.
I had a problem in that I replaced the hoses coming out of my fuel
tanks, but didn’t realise that inside the hoses are a one way valve
which prevents the fuel flowing back into the tank. With your car,
these valves are part of the pumps themselves ( you have two return
pumps, and one central pump which switches from right tank to left tank
I think…)
My problem in getting rid of these valves was that when I was on the
right tank, the fuel pump would not only pump fuel to the engine, but
it would also pump fuel to the left tank, and it ended up overflowing out
of the gas cap. The same would happen if I switched to the other tank.
Your problem looks to be that the valve is not working one direction,
and the overflow, instead of coming out through the gas cap, is coming
out around the charcoal filter…just a thought…cheers
REGARDS…Shane
SYDVM1(SHANEM) SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM
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To: jag-lovers@psy.uwa.edu.au
Subject: XJ-6 SIII Fuel System
From: blackmx5@usa.pipeline.com (Lawrence Karpman)
X-Pipeuser: blackmx5
X-Pipehub: usa.pipeline.com
X-Pipegcos: (Lawrence Karpman)
X-Mailer: Pipeline v3.5.0
Sender: owner-jag-lovers@psy.uwa.edu.au
Precedence: bulk
Can someone explain the SIII XJ-6 fuel system to me? Specificall, the fuel
flow to engien & return of excess to the tanks.
I have a REAL problem with mine. I have posted this before, but I do not
believe that I explained it fully, based upon responses.
If I fill my right tank more than about half full, the car will, within a
few miles, buck and stall everytime I try to accelerate. It will restart
just fine, but even the slightest pressure on the pedal causes a stall. In
addition, fuel will pour out of the area under right front fender area
where the charcoal device is located (so I am told).
It does not matter which tank I select with the fuel switch to cause this.
Eventually, the car will run normally. This problem NEVER happens if I run
only on the left tank, and avoid filling the right more than half.
I have been told it is the changeover valve. Without understanding the
system fuel flow, I’m perplexed. If the valve is not working properly, and
unneeded fuel is being returned to the right tank, regardless of switch
position, and the tank is not full, why is it overflowing. Seems to me the
“fuel return valves” may be in the picture somewhere.
Looking for help.
Larry Karpman
'85 XJ-6
From: Noah Dater ndater@moose.uvm.edu
Date: Mon, 04 Mar 1996 00:42:51 -0800
Subject: Re: XJ-6 SIII Fuel System
I have exactly the same problem on my 83 XJ6. I was wondering
how to fix it. What was your final fix to get this right?
Noah
Larry, even though I have a different model than yours, and mine is
a carbie car, I can maybe help you here.
I had a problem in that I replaced the hoses coming out of my fuel
tanks, but didn’t realise that inside the hoses are a one way valve
which prevents the fuel flowing back into the tank. With your car,
these valves are part of the pumps themselves ( you have two return
pumps, and one central pump which switches from right tank to left tank
I think…)
My problem in getting rid of these valves was that when I was on the
right tank, the fuel pump would not only pump fuel to the engine, but
it would also pump fuel to the left tank, and it ended up overflowing out
of the gas cap. The same would happen if I switched to the other tank.
'85 XJ-6
“When I die, I’d like to go peacefully.
In my sleep.
Like my grandfather.
Not screaming,
like the passengers in his car…”
– anonymous–
-----------------------------------------------------------
Noah Dater ----ndater@moose.uvm.edu----
Burlington, VT
From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 17:19:24 +1100 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-6 SIII Fuel System
Shane,
your fuel system is indeed totally different to that on an injected SIII.
Since I have converted my SII to EFI using SIII parts where applicable, I
should point out that they are quite different.
The SII fuel system uses two pumps (without any return path) which draw
from one tank each and feed a single fuel line via one way valves and a
mating ‘T’ piece. The one way valves are to stop fuel passing back through
the inoperative pump while the other is functional.
The SIII, on the other hand, switches the fuel source from either tank into
a single high pressure pump. Unused fuel from the fuel rail is returned
to two solenoid valves, which switch fuel flow to one of the tanks each.
Now, just to make things interesting, my SII has a SIII tank on the right
hand side to feed the efi system and the original tank on the left. Ideally
I would use two SIII tanks and fuel lines but I like to complicate things.
A temporary solution (if you can call three years temporary) has been to
just use the SIII tank. I aim to experiment with a simple balance pipe
between the two when I get sick of only 300-400 km range. The SII tank
doesn’t have a return line connection that I know of. I also haven’t got
the AC fuel cooler in place and suspect that I may be getting vapourisation
problems.
regards,
Robert
Robert Dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **
From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Mon, 04 Mar 96 09:54:00 MET
Subject: Re: Membership N = 618
Well, I would have thought that real joy is to see the other guy in the
stranded Lincoln, while you are zooming past in your unreliable Jaguar that
you had repaired at great expense of time , money and effort, so for once
the roles were reversed. At any rate you are lucky that your wife fumes in
silence, there exist alternatives to that!
Frans.
Joy is a Jaguar XJ6 with a flat battery, a blown oil seal and an
unsympathetic
wife, 9km outside of a small remote town, 3:15am on a cold wet winters
morning.No, Joy is a 1967 Lincoln with a flat battery 5 miles from home in the
middle of nowhere on Thanksgiving day (a national holiday here in the US,
falling on the third saturday in November) while bringing the beasty home
from the previous owner who swore that the car would have no problem being
driven 15 miles and finding out that every tow place the auto club called
was closed while your wife of 8 years sits there fuming in silence in 5
degree weather.Craig
End of jag-lovers-digest V1 #402
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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 5 March 1996 Volume 01 : Number 403
From: DPI@aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 04:37:32 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ-6 SIII Fuel System
I’ve experience the same problem on a Series One which has two seperate fuel
pumps instead of the fuel diverter.
Also, my fuel tanks “contract” when the engine is running and when the
engine is turned off, they “expand” making a very, very loud " metalic
boinging" sound.
When I parked next to an elderly lady at the market the other day, she was so
startled by the loud “boinging” sound emitting from the rear of the car, I
thought she was going to have a heart attack.
In a feeble attempt to assure her that the car wasn’t going to explode, I
joking yelled at the rear of the Jag, “If you kids don’t quit banging on the
trunk, I’m never going to let you out”!!
Only after I returned to my car from the market, did I realize that she took
me seriously. Their she stood with one of the local Police, excitedly
jabbering away as she pointed at the rear of my Jag, and at me.
Fortunately, this time, I didn’t have any bodies in my trunk when he checked.
Yes, I know it’s an old scam, but it really does work.
By the way, can’t wait to find out the cause because the same thing happens
when I disconnect the vapor recovery lines.
Does anyone know what the SU fuel pumps are supposed to produce @PSI and
@GPM.
Thanks in advance.
Can someone explain the SIII XJ-6 fuel system to me? Specificall, the fuel
flow to engien & return of excess to the tanks.
I have a REAL problem with mine. I have posted this before, but I do not
believe that I explained it fully, based upon responses.
If I fill my right tank more than about half full, the car will, within a
few miles, buck and stall everytime I try to accelerate. It will restart
just fine, but even the slightest pressure on the pedal causes a stall. In
addition, fuel will pour out of the area under right front fender area
where the charcoal device is located (so I am told).
It does not matter which tank I select with the fuel switch to cause this.
Eventually, the car will run normally. This problem NEVER happens if I run
only on the left tank, and avoid filling the right more than half.
From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 12:08:23 +0100
Subject: New home for the list
Hi gang,
I just received a note from Doug, the kind guy that has been
administrating the Jag-lovers mailing-list since Scott Fisher
changed job. Doug asks if there is anyone that could take over
the mailing-list, as he is going away for a few months and the
list would be without an administrator for that time.
I have the possibility of setting it up here, and am prepared
to take on the responsibilities of being the Jag-lover list-admin.
There is a charge of about 150 dollars a year to run a list from
my service provider, and in return they are a large company that
has provided very good service in the past.
Now, does anyone have anything they would like to say in the
matter? Unless there are major objections I will continue my
investigations into how the transfer can take place.
Of course, if there is someone else that desperately wants to
take on this task, and can provide the necessary facilities,
speak up.
Take care,
Nick (JagWeb admin)
Nick Johannesen @ Work http://www.sn.no/home/nick/
Phone: +47-2207 3981 Fax: +47-2207 3444
From: gleuma@dial.eunet.ch (Gerry Leumann)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 13:16:17 +0100
Subject: Re: brake booster - car to Europe
On March 3, Steve Cosgrove wrote:
(Question 1 and 2)
Question 3. This is the tough one. In June, I’m going to Germany to work=
for=20
three years. I could store the Jag here. But I’d really rather take it=
with. =20
My employer will ship one car for me as part of the employment contract. =
Any=20
thoughts on shipping the old girl over?
I have some experience shipping cars back and forth as I bought cars in the
US several times and shipped them over. Also I took classics over the the US
to participate on events.
If you want to be quite sure that the beauty arrives 100 % intact, use a
professional packer to fix the car in a 20’ container and ship it over
seafreight. Cost approx. $ 1500 one way. You can assist the locking of the
container and the opening, so you are sure nothing is stolen or destroyed.
Shop around with various shipping lines - pricing depends heavily on traffic
on the date in time you want to ship!
If you want speedier expedition (sea freight takes 4 - 8 weeks depending on
ports used and shipping lines) and are not too concerned about things stolen
from car (like back mirrors), ship within a few days from Charlotte, NC to
K=F6ln/Germany. Specialized freight line handling all the cars from US=
troops
stationed in Europe, very professional and so far no damage to my
experience. Cost approx. $ 1500 - 2000. Car is fixed on wood pallets and
loaded with a fork lift in and out of aircraft. Easy recovering in K=F6ln,=
but
use a forwarding company for all the red tape and paper work, costs little
and is efficient.
Worst way: Roll on/roll off. They sometimes drop the car with the crane when
unloading from a few feet, and I’ve seen those Carrera’s with all 4 wheels
folded out… They also drive cars on boats and out, and I’d better forget
how those dockers treat the vehicles. High risk of the chassis arriving with
no wheels and no coach on it, all stolen during transport.
Most expensive way (but of course also a very sure way): Use one of the
freight forwarders specializing in tranporting classic cars (see specialty
magazines’ ad section).
Best regards, and good luck
Gerry
(61 E type OTS, 53 Lagonda DHC, 67 Cooper S, 63 Volvo PV544 and British
pre-war stuff)
From: Andy.Reynolds@lifesciences.com
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 16:00:15 +0200
Subject: Buying XJ6 Series III
Dear List Readers,
I have been looking for a presentable XJ6 SIII for 1000 pounds sterling in
Sussex, England for a few months now.
The latest car was up at 700 pounds.
Interior was good. Body seemed sound but blisters of rust on doors,
wings, sun-roof, etc. The paintwork on the bonnet was flat/crazed/horrible
- maybe resprayed (I wondered an about under bonnet fire).
The owner said it had two ‘mechanical’ faults.
One being the thermostat was sticking and so the car was very
likely to over-heat. He had a new thermostat but was not planning
on fitting it. Not a job to ‘do-yourself’ he said and as he was not going
to spend any more money on the car he was not going to pay a
garage to fit it. He implied that it was more work than an ‘ordinary’ car.
Q. How much work is needed to change the thermostat? Maybe the guy is
covering up some other fault (if so what could it be?).
The other fault was a problem with the ‘automatic choke’ (this car is
injected - so I presume he means the cold start injector etc). He said
it runs badly until it warms up.
Any comments
Andy.Reynolds@lifesciences.com
PS please reply direct to me plus the list – I am still 2 weeks behind=20
reading
the digests.
From: “Peter W. Karpien” PETE@gleeble.com
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 10:49:54 EDT
Subject: 85 XJ6 Exhaust sealing problems
This past November I posted a couple questions to the list
concerning the possibility of a burnt exhaust valve.
Well I did the dead and removed the head on my 85 XJ6 over
the winter.
This was the biggest car repair I had ever attempted but I
read the Jaguar Manual at least three times before starting
and everything went pretty smoothly.
I was also concerned about a clicking noise and on the intake
side. Once the head was removed all was revealed.
Exhaust side - #5 valve badly burnt.
Intake side - #4 valve seat loose. Hmmm, glad I found that.
You want to see a groan man cry, just have a valve seat
drop at 80mph!
Anyway with the help of a machinist who I work with I was
able to repair the head.
He wouldn’t even charge me for the work.
He’ll be getting a little something though
wether he likes it or not.
The repair went quite smoothly and we
were able to get the valve clearances all figured out
before we put the head back on. Which made life a lot
easier.
I also installed a tappet sleeve retainer kit on the exhaust
side. For about $30.00 US it is definitely worth it.
Norman Nock at British Car Specialist was very informative
and helpful. The kit went in easily, though I wouldn’t
want to install it with the head on. The thought of little
metal chips in the oil gallery gives me nightmares!
Ooohh scary stuff.
Anyway everything is back together now and she runs like a
charm.
But, the big But, I can’t get the catalytic converter to
seal up to the exhaust manifold downpipe. I received new
seals with the head seal kit and I am using these. The
front pipe seals, but I can’t seem to get the back one to.
I have dismantled it once and tried again, but no luck
and the bolts aren’t exactly that easy to get to even though
they look it. Any suggestions.
I know it seems that it should be pretty straight forward,
but I thought I’d seek some advice before I make another attempt.
Boy I can’t wait till the snow goes away here in
UpState New York and I can bring my baby out of the
garage again.
Anxious in New York
- -Peter
Peter W. Karpien Project Manager
pete@gleeble.com Dynamic Systems Inc.
518-283-5350 P.O. Box 1234
518-283-3160 Fax Poestenkill, New York 12196
USA
From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 11:03:26 -0500
Subject: Mechanics Blue (aka Prussian Blue)
Stefan:
It is generally sold as "Prussian Blue" in any real auto parts store
or store that caters to machinists. Prussian Blue is a vivid indigo
blue dye used to dye metals prior to scribing. It is commonly applied
by mechanics to things like gear teeth when they want to check for
proper mesh. Apply some blue, rotate a bit and then check the wear
pattern on the teeth. The dye will be worn off the contact patch, but
remain in other areas, making it very easy to see. I have a tube I've
used for setting up ring and pinion sets several times. Works great.
MikeC
<m.cogswell@zds.com>
-------------------------- Reply Message -----------------------------
------------------------------
From: jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk (Stefan Schulz)
Date: Sat, 02 Mar 1996 07:21:05 GMT
Subject: Mechanic's Blue / Re: follow-up to differential trouble
In message <9602292228.AA6900@worldcom-45.worldcom.com> Jan Wikstroem
writes:
> the old-fashioned Mechanic's Blue has to be applied
What is Mechanic's Blue ?
Regards,
- --
Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
------------------------------
From: “White, Dick” white@msgate.ColumbiaSC.ATTGIS.COM
Date: Mon, 04 Mar 96 10:54:00 edt
Subject: Re: Mechanic’s Blue / Re: follow-up to differential trouble
Stefan,
Many years ago I was a co-op student at General Motors Institute and worked
in the tool and die shop at Ternstedt (I don’t even remember how to spell
it) Division for a couple of semesters. ‘Blue’ is a thin, watery blue dye.
We used ‘blue’ for three purposes.
-
Thoroughly smear it on new material to be worked on. This gave you
something you could draw on. With a scribe, draw the pattern you wish to
obtain. You would then cut, mill, grind, hone, drill, broach or whatever to
create your masterpiece. -
At Ternstedt we manufactured the aluminum and stainless steel trim for
all GM autos. The trim was either rolled and/or stamped. Often the quality
control group would start to reject parts because of scratches, dimples,
dings, or other marks caused by the dies. It was very difficult to look at
a bad part and try to relate where on the die it was coming from. One way
to do this was to smear ‘blue’ on the afflicted area of the part and
restrike it with the die. You could then crawl inside the die, after
properly blocking the jaws of the press, and you could see where the ‘blue’
transferred to the die. Then with a die grinder, carefully remove/polish
the trouble spot. Sometimes repeating this process over and over. By the
way, I always grabbed the air driven grinders when I could. The electric
ones worked ok but after a while they got so hot you had to wear gloves. -
We would sometimes smear it on doorknobs or under desk drawers of
supervisors whom we happened to dislike. The stuff was impossible to wash
off. You had to wait for it to wear off.
Dick White
Columbia, SC
'64 3.8 S-Type
'58 XK 150 FHC
From: Jan Wikstroem
To: jag-lovers
Subject: Re: Mechanic’s Blue / Re: follow-up to differential trouble
Date: Monday, March 04, 1996 12:57PMIn principle, Mechanic’s Blue (a trade name I was taught long ago) is a
light
grease containing a strong blue pigment. Last time, I cheated and used
linseed-oil based pigment additive for house paint. Brush a light coat on
one
part, run it with the meshing part and “read” the smears to see how the
bits
mesh. You can use anything that makes a really thin coat, is highly visible
and
washes off easily when you’re finished.
Regards,
-Jan
From: sfisher@sola.com.au (Scot Fisher)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 96 20:05 CST
Subject: Membership N = 618
Scott says;
<I was just doing some administrative stuff at the mailing-list site and notice
<that between the digest and real-time forums there were 618 members. About
I had never thought of the environmental impact of 618 Jags leaking oil
simultaniously. I guess if they areen’t all running at the same time…
LLoyd -cut in half e-type, welded back together-
From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 11:35:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Wood in XJS
Actually, I wasn't complaining at all about lack of wood. My XJ-S has
plenty. I was interested in the ads because of the round gauges. I
just hate the vertical gauges and would be happy if I could get round
ones (like the ones in my E-Type).
MikeC
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Wood in XJS
Author: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com at INTERNET
Date: 03/03/96 01:45 PM
I chose to go with the installed instruments, and just ordered the wood
panel to replace that hideous black plastic. I did the ski-slope, radio
surround, ignition and lights switches too. And very nice they are, IMHO.They don’t have a dramatic effect on the interior – they simply look as if
they were part of the car from the day it was built.
I’ve heard/read about this alot: folks complaining about the lack of wood in
earlier XJS’s. I happen to hold the contrary opinion (and probably the only
person in the world who thinks this way): I think early XJS’s are just
fine without the wood. When you think about it, nobody ever complained that
the E-type has no wood. Even though the XJS is no E-type, it’s still a
sports coupe, so it doesn’t need to get so dressed up. The current line
of Jags have beautiful interiors, but they almost have too much wood, to
the point of being ostentatious. If an interior is well designed, it doesn’t
need so much wood to look good.
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: “Peterson, Gerry” peterson@dlvd.mdc.com
Date: 4 Mar 1996 11:32:30 U
Subject: 63 E-Type Radio Needed
Greetings Jag-Lovers:
I am looking to purchase a stock radio for my 63 E-Type (12V positive ground).
Please E-Mail me directly if you have one for sale or can recommend a source.
Thanks.
Gerry Peterson
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 11:05:38 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: 85 XJ6 Exhaust sealing problems
On Mon, 4 Mar 1996, Peter W. Karpien wrote:
Intake side - #4 valve seat loose. Hmmm, glad I found that.
You want to see a groan man cry, just have a valve seat
^^^^^
A Freudian slip, no doubt!!
drop at 80mph!
Larry Lee
From: calc@qualcomm.com (cal callahan)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 10:33:44 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Wood in XJS
Roger,
The whole point of the wood dash (I believe) is to echo the tradition of
fine classic cars. Sort of a “tip of the hat” to those stellar ancestors.
Besides which, IMHO, the wood grain is far more appealing to the eye than
steel or, worse yet, plastic.
So I suspect you are rare indeed, though possibly not the only person in
the world to feel that way.
cal
From: Ryan Border rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 11:08:52 -0800
Subject: Weekend sworking, part 1.
Update time…
recap: Tick tick tick. Loose tappet? Install stakedown? Nope, head’s a
mess, then I broke a tap. Pull head. It IS a loose tappet guide! Install
new one, fix head, install stakedowns. All the kings horses, all the kings
men, put my jag back together again. Try to start… no ignition. Continue
to spin… and boom! Fractured tappet guide. Off with head again.
The machine shop seemed quite perplexed by the fractured guide. Checking
their records, it turns out NOT to be the brand new one as I suspected. But
it is one of the ones that was replaced when the same shop first rebuilt the
head last year, and so they agreed to fix it free of charge. Quite luckily,
there was no valve damage- apparently the knocking sound was all from the
tappet/guide binding, and thankfully it appears that I was right: it was
only binding on the open stroke, and was closing without impedance. The
result being that the valves never hit eachother. Unfortunately, the head
gasket got torn (by the studs up front) when we pulled the head, and so I
needed to buy a new one 
Got the head back and re-adjusted all the valves. Made one major boo-boo
by not backing off the intake cam bearing nuts quite far enough before
turning the exhaust cam one time, and sure enough the valves hit and I bent
the #3 intake valve. Didn’t upset me too much: I learned just how easy it
is to bend a valve on these motors, and- I got to learn what a bent valve
looks and (more importantly) feels like, and how to tell when one is bent
etc. The head was on the bench, and so I figured it was actually a pretty
good $9 learning experience
With the new valve installed, I got all the valves adjusted, and started
re-assembling things. Clive came by and we re-installed the head Saturday.
Connected all the timing gear, and tightened the chain. When we turned the
motor back to TDC I re-checked the valve timing, and was quite annoyed that
it wasn’t where I had set it. The intake valve had retarded quite measurably.
It was Clive who figured out what I had done- I hadn’t taken care to get all
the slack out of the outer-most sections of the upper chain when bolting the
cams to the wheels. The result was that when I tightened the chain, it moved
the cams changing the valve timing. By chance, the exhaust cam was fine,
we just needed to re-adjust the intake cam.
o Undo the two bolts that we could reach on the intake cam.
o Turn the motor over one time and undo the other 2 bolts. Of course
the cams were now 180 from where we needed them, and so we needed
to turn the motor over again, and then set the cam.
Catch the big flaw in that logic?!?!? I didn’t until it was too late.
We turned the motor over with the exhaust cam connected, but the intake
cam not. I could feel the #2I valve bend from under the car, through the
timing gear while turning the crank with my 1 5/16 wrench; commenting to
Clive “what are we binding on?”. As soon as I got out from under the
car and took a look at things, I realized what had happened. Pulled the
intake came, and (with my recent experience) could even feel that it was
bent. Bolted the cam back on, and checked the valve clearance (huge) just
to confirm my suspcion.
Of course this meant, that the head had to come off… again. Sigh. But first
I made some phone calls, and managed to find a local shop with valves in stock
and open late on a Saturday afternoon. Clive and I made a quick run down
and picked up the valves, and a few shims; I even managed to correctly guess
what size shim I was going to need.
Upon returning home, we VERY CAREFULLY lifted the head, this time managing
to not damage the new head-gasket. We lapped, installed, and adjusted the
new valve- and then re-installed the head. It’s kind of sad that I’m getting
this good at manipulating the head in and out of the car. Clive had to
go home, and I spent the rest of the evening installing everything else in
the engine bay- except the carbs and ignition.
Continued…
From: Ryan Border rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 11:33:56 -0800
Subject: Weekend sworking, part 2.
The work continues…
Sunday morning I installed the carbs and ignition. I got a new “competition
spark plug wire guide” from XK’s unlimited- and though the price is
ridiculous for a drilled piece of wood and some cheap brackets to hold
it in place- it really does clean things up and I’m quite happy with it.
Took about an hour to re-feed, cut, and re-attach the ends to all my wires.
Clive showed up again, we filled the coolant system up, and set about
starting the car. The motor turned fine, and thankfully the terrible
knocking sound was all gone. Oil pressure came up fine, but it wouldn’t
fire. We checked the ignition, and played around with it quite a bit-
finally getting it to where we had a good strong spark at the ends
of the wires, and the timing seemed right at about 8degrees btdc. Still
the car wouldn’t fire.
This was exactly the behavior we saw before the tappet guide fractured
a few weeks back. At that time we compression tested the motor (good),
and also had tinkered with the ignition. One thing that was curious a
few weeks ago was that the when we pulled plugs they didn’t smell of
fuel- which led us to suspect a possible problem with the fuel delivery.
We tried it quite a while before Clive went to the back of the car to feel
how much pressure was being generated at the tail pipe. He returned to the
front of the car with a big ring on the palm of his hand… from where the
car had tried to suck it into the tail-pipe. “Should the car be sucking
at the tail pipe?” he asked. I stood there for a while trying to rationalize
a way for that to happen, and couldn’t.
Next I reached down to the intake on the carbs, and spun the motor… sure
enough it was pushing air out. So, we put the motor at TDC and removed the
oil filler from the cam cover. Peered inside with a flashlight and took
a look at the #6 exhaust valve… it was on the verge of being opened; and
yet the cam timing notch appeared to be in the correct position.
Finally, we put 2 and 2 together, and realized that the cams had somehow
gotten swapped. I believe they’ve been this way since I first got the head
back from the machine shop, and it’s probably why the car wouldn’t start
weeks back before the tappet guide fractured. Clive had to go home, and I
started tearing things apart- again.
Swapping the cams back to the correct side wasn’t too bad of a job- about
like doing an in-the-car valve adjustment. Biggest problem was the RTV’d
cam cover gaskets :-(. Merely a few hours of wrench turning.
Reset the cam timing- buttoned everything back up, and once again was
ready to try and start the car.
A squirt with the starting fluid, and VROOM- the car started on the first
touch of the starter.
It’s funny that Robert Dingli asked yesterday, but one thing I did was
advance the intake cam a bit. As Robert suspected, I’ve been told that
this is an old trick, used to build a poor-mans racing engine. The sound
of the motor seems totally different… it’s a lot more ‘throaty’, and
more like the racing Jags I’ve seen at the Montery historics. But,
it also was idling like a race car, which is to say not very well. Actually,
it idles pretty well at 8-900rpm, it’s just that I need to use my foot on
the throttle to keep it there… but, I’ve got lots of things to check (like
the ignition timing again). About this time it started to rain, it was
getting dark and so the test drive was postponed.
continued…
From: Ryan Border rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 11:55:39 -0800
Subject: Weekend sworking, part 3
The weather cleared last night, and so after cleaning up and going
out to dinner with the family, I returned to the garage to take the
Jag out for its first test drive. Opened up the bypass screws on the
carbs to try and get it to idle, but still had to heel-toe it quite
a bit to keep it from stalling. Brakes seemed to grab just a bit as I
backed it out of the garage; but I figured that was to be expected since
the car hadn’t moved since November.
Out on the road, the motor seemed to be running great. It was running
smoothly, had gobs of power, and sounded awesome. Oh yes, and it wasn’t
ticking. Pulled onto the freeway, and decided to stop by Clives and
take him for a little ride after all the help he had given me over the
weekend.
We pulled onto a little stretch of road that Clive likes to run his E-type
on, and I opened it up a bit. In short, the cam timing seems to have
really made a difference, and it really comes on at about 3200rpms. !
Returning to Clives, it died going around a corner (with the clutch in)
and wouldn’t re-start. Almost like a dead battery. Let it cool for
maybe 30seconds (and bleed some compression out of the cylinders) and
it re-started just fine… wierd. Got back to Clives, dropped him off,
and started the short drive home- patting myself on the back for finally
getting it all put back together.
And then the brakes started to grab. I first noticed it rolling away
from Clives, but it started to get progressively worse. As if every time
I touched the brakes, pressure was put into the system, but never released.
I thought I could limp it home, but soon the pedal got real hard,
and the rear brakes started to stink and smoke. Pulled over at a gas
station to asses the situation. Decided to pull a rear wheel, only to
discover that my hydraulic Jack that I carry was leaking and wouldn’t
lift the car. Was on the verge of calling a tow-truck when I got an
idea.
Even though I couldn’t get to the brake bleeders with the wheels on, I
could reach the inner end of the rear bridge pipes. I undid one about 1/2
of a turn and hot brake fluid shot out onto my hand. That released the
pressure in the system, and the car would roll fine. I tightened it back
up, and figured I could get home slowly using only the hand-brake. And,
if I needed to, I had one good stop with the hydraulics, though I’d have
to open it again to release the pressure.
I was turning the last corner to home, when instead of downshifting
to 2nd, from 3rd (to decellerate) I missed and got 4th. Going to fast
for the corner I went for my 1 stop with the brakes… and the pedal
slapped uselessly to the floor. Grabbed the handbrake for all it was
worth… and the car slowed just a bit; but I made the corner without
incident, and limped it up my uphill driveway into the garage where I
put it away for the night. I’m guessing I didn’t get the bridge pipe
re-tightened well enough and the fluid just shot out of it.
Question: I have 4 wheel disc brakes. No servo. I don’t think there
is any sort of front/rear balancing valve… but only the rear brakes
seemed to be grabbing. Any ideas??? A pinched/clogged brake line somewhere?
Could a mal-functioning master somehow cause this? Sounds like a seizing
slave cylinder, but I wouldn’t expect both rears to do this at the
same time, or for there to be pressure in the system like that.
The fun never ends…
Ryan.
End of jag-lovers-digest V1 #403
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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 5 March 1996 Volume 01 : Number 404
From: leland@tiac.net (John Leland)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 15:35:30 -0500
Subject: a question of value
I need some help from the experts. . .
Reluctantly, I am coming to the conclusion that I may have to part with my
1978 XJ6–a combination of too much snow, high storage costs and equally
high insurance costs. The vehicle is in mint condition, having virtually
no flaws I know of and only 34 K miles actual.If any of you have an idea as
to what its value might be, I’d appreciate hearing from you. Key issue is
whether I can get any sort of premimum for its age and excellent condition;
if it turns out that it is not yet old enough, I may have to bite the
bullet and tend to its care and feeding. . . for a few more years.
John in Connecticut
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 15:23:13 -0600
Subject: Valve guide stake down kits
I keep hearing about these things and that the series 3 XJ6 is the one most
likely to need it.
I have a 1982 XJ^ with 115,000 miles on it. It doesnt make any ticking
noises. Should I worry?? Should I pull the head and fix what dont seem to
be broke?
Jim
===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"
John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: Paul Amaranth amaranth@Oakland.edu
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 16:22:01 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Weekend sworking, part 3
Question: I have 4 wheel disc brakes. No servo. I don’t think there
is any sort of front/rear balancing valve… but only the rear brakes
seemed to be grabbing. Any ideas??? A pinched/clogged brake line somewhere?
Could a mal-functioning master somehow cause this? Sounds like a seizing
slave cylinder, but I wouldn’t expect both rears to do this at the
same time, or for there to be pressure in the system like that.
I’m not familiar with your setup, but a couple of things come to mind.
The most likely is any flexible rubber hoses in the brake lines to
the rear. I’ve seen these act as one way valves before.
Also, if you have a brake proportioning valve, it’s possible that it
could be messed up. These tend to be pretty reliable, however.
I’d check out the rubber flex lines first.
Paul Amaranth Manager User Services - office: (810) 370 4541 (also voicemail)
(e-mail) amaranth@oakland.edu [Rochester, Michigan USA]
Web page: http://www.acs.oakland.edu/links/amaranth/amaranth.html
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 16:28:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Membership N = 618
I had never thought of the environmental impact of 618 Jags leaking oil
simultaniously. I guess if they areen’t all running at the same time…
Hey – they leak oil when parked! You gotta DRAIN the oil to keep 'em from
leaking!
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: “Scott W. Phillips - Gillette Foundation” <SWPHIL@GCH_ADMIN.GCHOSPITAL.COM>
Date: Mon, 04 Mar 1996 16:00:25 -0600 (CST)
Subject: “Paul’s Discount Jaguar in Florida”
Hail fellow Jag-lovers. Reference BJ Kroppe’s note to Chris. I have
tried to find both Mr. Greg Andrachuck (illegal domain non
deliverable at the e-mail address I have MGB@UWM.UVic.CA)
and/or Paul’s Discount Jaguar in Florida that is mentioned in his 10/95 message.
Any help in locating this outfit? Am heading to Florida in a couple
weeks and thought I’d check them out since I am in need of
replacement leather (at close to an affordable price) and new center
console wood, since the PO left the roof open in the rain and shrank
the leather in front and warped the wood good!
Thanks in advance!
Scott Phillips
88-XJ6 (or XJ40…or XJ6, Series 4…I’m still not certain what I have!)
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Mon, 04 Mar 1996 22:52:10 -0100
Subject: [JagWeb] Update 4th February 1996
Just uploaded the latest batch of digests to the archive.
Also added a bunch of new links to the link-list, some
interesting new pages cropping up around the world, take
a look.
The Jaguar Daimler Heritage Trust pages will be expanded
before the end of the week and I promise to get the stack
of photos lying here scanned and added to the photobook
Nick
<<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>>
<<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>>
The Jaguar enthusiasts WWW-site <<<
From: dxs@evolving.com (Dan Stanger)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 15:18:16 -0700
Subject: wood and finishes
does anybody know what kind of wood and finishes were used in the
1964 s types? i am interested in restoring the wood in my car
and that info would be helpfull.
thanks,
dan stanger
From: “mark (m.d.) roberts” markdr@bnr.ca
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 16:45:00 -0500
Subject: Re:E-type Heater Pipes
Hunt:
When I put the new stainless steel pipe into my car
this past summer…when it was actually warm out…
I “applied” my pop rivet gun/thingy to the bench grinder.
I figured if I really wrecked it, I’d be out, maybe
$10. Result is a special purpose pop rivet gun suitable
for installing E-type heater pipes with the engine
installed !
As for the windscreen washer nozzles, I don’t recall
them to be a problem, other than trying to figure
out which of the holes the tube came through the
firewall. My pictures of the car as it came apart
(back in 1981) clearly showed the pipe coming out
the wrong place, according to every other picture
and car I have since looked at. I did have the
entire dash off the car when the new nozzles went in,
and the wiper mechanism was all in place. I seem
to recall that the job was done in about 10 minutes,
but I’ve been wrong before…several times today in
fact
As a side note, I am really envious of all you
people out there who can actually work on your
cars over the winter. Up here in Ottawa, it
gets so bloody cold, and the winters are so
bloody long, it’s a wonder anyone would actually
want to live here…by choice. On the bright
side, I can start working on the bits of the
car in the basement again because the forced
renovation of the bathroom and not-so-forced
renovation of the bedroom are done…yah…yahoo !
Regards, Mark R.
Oh, and congrats to you Nick on the new wee one.
Mark Roberts Phone (613) 763-2924
Ottawa, Ontario, CANADA Fax: (613) 763-3970
1988 VDP - SIII V12 email: markdr@bnr.ca
1963 3.8L E-Type Coupe - 15 years into a 3 year project
From: “mark (m.d.) roberts” markdr@bnr.ca
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 16:45:00 -0500
Subject: Re:E-type Heater Pipes
Mark makes me feel better by putting things into perspective. Nothing like a
booster shot of truth once in a while…LLoyd
<As a side note, I am really envious of all you
<people out there who can actually work on your
<cars over the winter. Up here in Ottawa, it
<gets so bloody cold, and the winters are so
<bloody long, it’s a wonder anyone would actually
<want to live here…by choice. On the bright
<1963 3.8L E-Type Coupe - 15 years into a 3 year project
From: Ryan Border rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 14:58:52 -0800
Subject: Quick gauge question
Did Jaguar ever make a single (safety) gauge with:
an Electric water temperature gauge and…
a Mechanical oil pressure gauge
If so, from what years/models could such a gauge be extracted from?
Ryan:
Why?, you ask: My MK1 has such a gauge, except the temperature gauge (well,
actually the sender) is broken. They’re hard to find, and expensive to fix.
As a stop-gap I put an electrical sender into the intake manifold. Am hoping
to find a bolt-in solution that will let me use the existing oil pressure
line but use the new electrical temperature sender.
From: CHRIS GILDEA 101374.3465@compuserve.com
Date: 04 Mar 96 17:33:20 EST
Subject: JAGUAR XJ40
My name is Chris Gildea and I live in a small Derbyshire Village called
Chapel-en-le-Frith which is in the U.K. My Compuserve ID is 101374.3465
I am looking to purchase within the next few weeks or so, a 1989/1990 Jaguar
XJ40 3.6L Sovereign
Q1. Does any member have any information on what problems that a Sovereign of
that age will have? Are there any particular areas of the vehicle which I
should concentrate upon? Eg. Body corrosion, Gearbox faults, Interior problems.
Q2. Does any member have a full U.K. specification of both the engine and
interior? I am looking for a car which will have full leather interior,
automatic gearbox, electric sunroof as well as the basic Sovereign
specification.
Should anybody have such answers to my questions if they could email me direct
at 101374.3465@compuserve.com
Thanks.
Chris
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 04 Mar 96 18:47:10 EST
Subject: Re: brake fluid- diff of DOT 3 /4
Hi John W Schuck & list
I’m not the graetes genious on Brak fluids, but I hardly believe clutch failure
is due to using Dot3 instaed of dot4. If changed often the difference in DOT3
and DOT4 is not significant for a clutch cylinder, but more so for brake
applications. DOT 5 is not synomous with silicone. But silicone is DOT5 (what I
have seen so far).
Brake fluids with Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (FMVSS), DOT
(department Of Transport. The following imformation is taken from a BP Chemical
Technigram BA1/1 January 1986. For further info contact BP Chemicals limited,
Belgrave house, 76 Buckingham Palace Road London SW1W 0SU, Tel +44 (0)1 581 1388
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 04 Mar 96 18:46:59 EST
Subject: Re: Fire Extinguishers
Hi Jan,
Why is it that the halogene extinguishers are not allowed anymore?. I would
really hate to cover my engine bay in this powder -shi…, although of course
better than burning the car down. I have heard the powder attacks metal, thus
ruining the engine anyway… Is there any thruth in this ?
Is Halogene a dangerous gas to people ?. Can a powder extinguisher be used in a
passenger cabin on fire - when people are still present - possibly in wild panic
? (wide open eyes and mouths screaming the lungs out…).
Regards Jeffrey Gram
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 04 Mar 96 18:47:06 EST
Subject: Re: Cam phasing
Ho Robert Dingli & List
I have not tried cam phasing, but I seriously doubt there will be any notiable
effect from 10 degrees inlet cam advance (assuming exhaust stays at standard
setting), other than maybe negative effects . I’m sure Jaguar did look at other
possibilities before deciding as they did - for a symmetric valve timing.
Engine torque Md = Vh * Pe, Vh is displacement of engine in liters, Pe is the
mean working pressure in Bars.
p is pressure in bars and is for a 4-stroke engine = 883 * P / (Vh * n),
where P is horsepowers (DIN), Vh in liters and n is engine speed in revolutions
per minute.
You see cam timing is not a factor other than a “better” timing gives better
filling of combustion chamber which gives more horsepower which gives more
torque. A better solution is to use “fast Road” or “rally” cams which increase
opening times to allow better filling (and increased consumption I believe).
Accurately done by measuring the angle difference with suitable sensitive
measurement “clocks”, but better by dividing number of teeth in the camshaft
sprocket inner center part (held by a locking o-ring from spring steel) by 360
degrees to get degrees per tooth. Then move the sprocket the calcu;ated number
of teeth clockwise (seen from front of engine). Then turn camshaft to align
holes and it is done.
Idle stability is possibly affected, but hey - you’ve got injection, - much less
sensitive to cam timing than old carburetters with random fuzzy “logic” air flow
variations and associated idle “jerking” - drives me nuts.
Inlet and exhaust valves will not hit each other with 10 degrees, but of course
they are “nearer”.
- -I don’t know why you bother tweaking the “old” cams at all. If to do anything
do it properly - other cams. And K&N air filter. The engine tuners in UK get
300 HP out of the 4.2, and 350 when really going for it.
Regards Jeffrey Gram '78 XJ6C (with 308 degrees rallycams) and 10.84 mm lift
(425 Thou)
From: Paul Peard Paul.Peard@BankersTrust.com
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 00:29:23 +0000
Subject: Re: Buying XJ6 Series III
Hi Andy,
I have never needed to change a thermostat in my Jag but fro mwhat I
have seen, you undo the bolts and put the new one in, hardly rocket
science unless I am missing something. Still, at least he admitted to
the fault, but, he has gone to the expense of buying a replacement
'stat, so I would have thought he would have gone all the way and fitted
it, unless the bolts on the housing are screwed or something.
Still, for 700 quid, it may be worth the risk, but I don’t trust him!!,
for that price I would expect the guy to just say, here it is, take it
if you want it.
As always, just opinions
Regards
Paul
From: nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu (Nikolai Chitaev)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 19:28:11 -0600
Subject: Active" air-flow-meter
Hello there,
Just my thoughts regarding “improving” the Jag, as usuall.
What, loute, do you think about “active” air-flow-meter, where buterfly of
current AFM will be replaced with “propeller” type buterfly (which is not a
buterfly enymore, but true passive propeller). The rotation friquency rpm
of such a propeller will feded to ECU as a function of consumed air. Axis
of this propeller should be aligned in paralell with air flow which in turn
should provide “turbo-effect”: more air through the same passage.
Basicaly, you through away current AFM and instal instead such a small
propeller with bicycle`s speedometer as a means of meassuring the amout of
air.
Nikolai A. Chitaev, PhD.
<<87`XJ6 4.2L, EFI, BRG>>
{nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu}
{http://128.252.119.253}
St.Louis, Missouri, USA
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 04 Mar 96 20:29:55 EST
Subject: Weekend sworking, part 2.
Hi Ryan
Seems you are gaining a lot of experience with valve timing and head swapping.
You will never turn a cam alone again I suppose - welcome to the club of valve
benders.
You see - as I wrote the other day it is imperative to carefully note down
exactly the position of the cams before unbolting them. Memory alone is
untrustworthy. When the Jaguar cam adjustment tool fits in the slots, the cam
lobes on no 6 cylinder are to point outwards, exhaust cam towards exhaust side,
inlet cam towards carurettor side. This you could have checked quite easily by
just looking at the cam lobes and work out what would happen next ( i.e inlet
opening after TDC - should ring the big alarm bell).
Next I reached down to the intake on the carbs, and spun the motor… sure
enough it was pushing air out. So, we put the motor at TDC and removed the
oil filler from the cam cover. Peered inside with a flashlight and took
a look at the #6 exhaust valve… it was on the verge of being opened; and
yet the cam timing notch appeared to be in the correct position.
Finally, we put 2 and 2 together, and realized that the cams had somehow
gotten swapped. I believe they’ve been this way since I first got the head
back from the machine shop, and it’s probably why the car wouldn’t start
weeks back before the tappet guide fractured.
No - the notch was not in the correct position with swapped cams. If the notch
was “up” the cam lobe pointed inwards which is “has just closed the exhaust
valve” , since the cams rotate clockwise seen from engine front side, or
anticlockwise when peering to no 6 cam lobe through the
oil filler hole.
Although I would have done as you did - to swap the cams back to the correct
side, you actually did not need to do this. Turning the cams (together !) to
have the cams lobes “outwards” again would be sufficient, although there is no
way of checking absolute correctness since the timing nothes are in the wrong
place then. The cams are identical apart from where the notches are cut.
Not having calculated it I’d say you have been damn lucky not to bend more
valves in the cam swapping experience, since the was timing is not “just” off ,
it was also considerably changed with respect to correct timing. The exhaust
valve was 60 degrees retarded and the inlet advanced 60 degrees with respect to
correct timing. In this position the inlet valves are just on closing closely
followed by exhausts opening - furthermore the exhaust valves has just closed
before the piston hits TDC - Now that would really have messed things up with 6
holed pistons.
I speculated that maybe we have here the reason for the fractured guide - an
exhaust valve hitting the inlet valve causes severe stress on the follower which
leans hard against the tappet guide. However I cannot explain why the inlet
valve did not bend then (all inlet valves since the same would occur on each
cylinder). I think it is more likely that the retainer set was incorrectly
installed leaning hard against the guide causing severe stress and making the
follower very tight in the guide, eventually cracking the guide. In fact I’m
quite sure this is what has happened. Reading your note from 19th Februar I note
that you did not hear this metal to metal knocking/banging sounds when first
spinning the engine before checking the ignition shutter wheel, but that the
sound started and the second round of trying to start,. This must have been when
the overstressed guide cracked, thus causing the follower “bucket” to bind, and
making the metal knock sounds.
Oh so expensive experince…
Regards Jeffrey Gram
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 21:44:00 -0500
Subject: Front Brake Caliper Shims - XJ
Alright, after a review of the repair manual, I think I understand the
reason for the shims between the steering arm and the front brake caliper.
When replacing the disk, you’re supposed to measure the distance between the
sides of the new disk and the caliper on each side. If the distances are
not equal, then you’re supposed to fit a pair of shims between the upright
and the caliper to move the caliper over a little.
Of course, the problem here is that the steering arm is on the OTHER side of
the caliper. If the caliper moves over by the thickness of the added shims,
then the steering arm mounting will be distorted. Solution: Provide a
little extra space under the steering arm and fill it with shims. Then,
when adding shims under the caliper, the same thickness of shims can be
removed from under the steering arm to keep it in the same place and not
distort it.
Of course, this brings up an inevitable question. The most you could move
the caliper while keeping the steering arm unaltered would be the thickness
of the shims, which is something like .020". Compared to the range of pad
wear, this has to be considered insignificant. Why would it be of any
importance whatsoever to be able to center the disk in the caliper within .020"?
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 21:44:04 -0500
Subject: S-shaped exhaust tips - XJ-S
I wanna briefly review the fume recirculation rumor about the S-shaped
exhaust pipe tips. I recall that some folks had fumes when using
better-looking tips, while others claimed no problems.
What I’d like to do is consider the XJ-S in particular, since I maintain a
booklet on this particular car with its particular aerodynamics. How many
of you XJ-S owners have tried substituting pipe tips? Any fume problems?
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Cameron Nelson 101635.3107@compuserve.com
Date: 04 Mar 96 17:13:21 EST
Subject: More E-Heater Pipes…
- ---------- Forwarded Message ----------
From: Hunt Dabney, INTERNET:hdabney@earthlink.net
TO: Jag-lovers, INTERNET:JAG-LOVERS@PSY.UWA.EDU.AU
DATE: 04/03/96 00:39
RE: More E-Heater Pipes…
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To: Jag-lovers JAG-LOVERS@psy.uwa.edu.au
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Subject: More E-Heater Pipes…
Sender: owner-jag-lovers@psy.uwa.edu.au
Precedence: bulk
Today I finally installed my new stainless heater pipes. ('62 E). I ordered
tham from Terry’s in December and have had them in the garage since. Last
week I installed, marked and drilled the rivet holes, ran out of time and
put it away.
Today I went to install them and discovered that my rivet gun would not fit
up close enough to the pipe to allow me to rivet. So, off in search of a
suitable rivet gun… No luck, as the best I could find would only work at
one angle, which would not work for most of the positions. hmmm… OK, I
give up. 18 pieces of 3/8" 6-32 stainless cap head allen screw later, tapped
the flanges and in it went (+loctite). Not stock, but I’ll keep on the
lookout for an appropriate tool for later.
On to the windshield jets. With much help from my 11 year old son Michael, whose arms will still fit through the access holes reasonably well, we got both old ones off, and the left side on in without too much problem. THe right side jet is really tough – we are plotting ways to reinstall it for next week! (I really don’t want to remove the wiper mechanism unless I have to!) Best to all, Hunt From: bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman Wing) Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 22:07:24 -0500 Subject: XK Cam timing This idea of advancing the intake cam a few degrees is intriguing. Does anyone else have any experience with this? Other than a rocky idle, are there any disadvantadges to doing it? If it’s so beneficial, why didn’t the factory set the cams there in the first place? I would be happy to sacrifice high end power for more midrange, since I rarely get above 4500rpm on the street. Cheers, Braman End of jag-lovers-digest V1 #404 ******************************** Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-dig Received: from uniwa.uwa.edu.au (root@uniwa.uwa.edu.au [130.95.128.1]) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.6.12/on1) with ESMTP id for nick@sn.no; Tue, 5 Mar 1996 14:35:33 +0100 From: @owner-jag-lovers-dig Received: from psy.uwa.edu.au (freud.psy.uwa.oz.au [130.95.176.3]) by uniwa.uwa.edu.au (8.6.11/8.6.9) with SMTP id VAA08198; Tue, 5 Mar 1996 21:13:42 +0800 Received: by psy.uwa.edu.au (4.1/SMI-4.1) id AA06428; Tue, 5 Mar 96 21:14:17 CST Date: Tue, 5 Mar 96 21:14:17 CST Message-Id: 9603051144.AA06428@psy.uwa.edu.au Errors-To: pcnet@psy.uwa.edu.au To: jag-lovers-digest@psy.uwa.edu.au Subject: jag-lovers-digest V1 #405 Reply-To: jag-lovers@psy.uwa.edu.au Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-dig Precedence: bulk X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 5 March 1996 Volume 01 : Number 405 From: “Ryan Border” border@best.com Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 20:14:29 +0000 Subject: Re: Weekend sworking, part 2. Jeffry Gram writes: … it is imperative to carefully note down exactly the position of the cams before unbolting them. Memory alone is untrustworthy. When the Jaguar cam adjustment tool fits in the slots, the cam lobes on no 6 cylinder are to point outwards, exhaust cam towards exhaust side, inlet cam towards carurettor side. I do not think this is correct. Think about it. Viewed from the front of the engine, everything turns clockwise. At TDC, you’re either about to fire the spark (neither valve should be close to opening), or you’re about to start an intake stroke. The cam notches (on my 1983 S3 XJ6 engine) are cut so that #6 is starting an intake stroke. The exhaust valve is just closing. Since everything turns clockwise, that means that the exhaust lobe on #6 need to point inwards: exactly the opposite from what you describe. Similarly, at the beginning of an intake stroke, the intake valve should just be opening, again the intake valve should therefore point inwards. Believe me, after this weekend, I know where the #6 lobes need to point. This you could have checked quite easily by just looking at the cam lobes and work out what would happen next ( i.e inlet opening after TDC - should ring the big alarm bell). I don’t think so… inlet opening after TDC is exactly what SHOULD happen. Exhaust opening at TDC is what I had, and is what should have set off the alarm bells. Next I reached down to the intake on the carbs, and spun the motor… sure enough it was pushing air out. So, we put the motor at TDC and removed the oil filler from the cam cover. Peered inside with a flashlight and took a look at the #6 exhaust valve… it was on the verge of being opened; and yet the cam timing notch appeared to be in the correct position. No - the notch was not in the correct position with swapped cams. If the notch was “up” the cam lobe pointed inwards which is “has just closed the exhaust valve” , since the cams rotate clockwise seen from engine front side, or anticlockwise when peering to no 6 cam lobe through the oil filler hole. See above… I think you’ve got it backwards. At TDC you should be (with the cams on the correct sides) opeining the intake valve. With them swapped, what I was seeing was “just opening the exhaust valve” Although I would have done as you did - to swap the cams back to the correct side, you actually did not need to do this. Turning the cams (together !) to have the cams lobes “outwards” again would be sufficient, Well, aside from arguing “outward” vs. “inward”, I’d agree here. The cams do appear to be identical. Actually, I thought (briefly) about trying this, but then, as you did, realized that there was no way to set them accurtately, and quickly decided to put them back were they belong. That, and my wife Joan got really concerned when I started sketching things out on paper and said: “Ryan, whenever you get that look on your face, bad things happen and the money goes away”. Not having calculated it I’d say you have been damn lucky not to bend more valves in the cam swapping experience, since the was timing is not “just” off , it was also considerably changed with respect to correct timing. I thought about this too. But, I’m not so sure that this is the case. One way to think about it: The valves were doing exacly what they should- it’s just that the exhaust valves were doing what the intake valves should have been doing, and vice-verse. Anecdotally, the motor was making about 120psi, something I don’t think it could have been doing if the valves weren’t “right” (backwards). And, it was pushing a lot of air… backwards. valve was 60 degrees retarded and the inlet advanced 60 degrees with respect to correct timing. In this position the inlet valves are just on closing closely followed by exhausts opening - Exaclty right, where as in a properly setup engine, the exhaust valves are closing (at TDC) closely followed by (actually slightly preceeded by) the intakes opening. I speculated that maybe we have here the reason for the fractured guide - an exhaust valve hitting the inlet valve causes severe stress on the follower which leans hard against the tappet guide. There wasn’t any valve contact. Nothing bent, or scored. Things did turn smoothly, and I now know what hitting valves feel like. In any event, it’s hard for me to believe that the valve (via banging valves) could impart any side load to the tappet without completely destroying the valve guide. Certainly not enough to crack a tappet guide. However I cannot explain why the inlet valve did not bend then (all inlet valves since the same would occur on each cylinder). I think it is more likely that the retainer set was incorrectly installed leaning hard against the guide causing severe stress and making the follower very tight in the guide, eventually cracking the guide. In fact I’m quite sure this is what has happened. Close to what we’ve guessed too. We think the tappet guide was not properly installed (not fully seated) and the retainer kit imparted some stress to it, possibly making it sit crooked. This stress, coupled with the motor vibration, and possibly even a bad guide (part) to begin with all summed up to fracture the guide. Reading your note from 19th Februar I note that you did not hear this metal to metal knocking/banging sounds when first spinning the engine before checking the ignition shutter wheel, but that the sound started and the second round of trying to start,. This must have been when the overstressed guide cracked, thus causing the follower “bucket” to bind, and making the metal knock sounds. Yes, definitely. It was fine for quite a few revolutions. Oh so expensive experince… Indeed. And, thanks for the thoughtful response- Ryan. From: “Peter Rebbechi” <“rebbechi peter"@a1.meoc02.sno.mts.dec.com> Date: Tue, 05 Mar 96 04:28:01 -0500 Subject: Oil Pressure in XJ40 I recently decided to go the ‘whole hog’ and keep my XJ40 in the manner to which it deserves. One problem I have had constantly is the oil pressure ‘zooming’ to zero (red flashing lights!) and then back again. I have had it checked out many times, but because I believe that red lights mean trouble, I was not quite settled. Michael Neal gave advice that it could be the oil sender switch. I have recently decided against selling the car, and mounted a bit of maintenance that I have been putting off. I replaced the oil sender unit, and the problem is cured ! It was even cheap(?) at $95 to fix. Not cheap was the set of uprated springs, and new shockers all round. Since the car is heavy, and has done 220,000 km, I thought it necessary to replace all the bushes as well. The car now steers and handles so much better, I am kicking myself I did not do this earlier. As part of the summer maintenance I also had the radiator removed and cleaned, pressure tested, and re installed. It is now the same car as when I bought it 160,000 km ago! The ABS system is still playing up, but is better since I replaced the accumulator. The lower valve is next, and then I should be able to enjoy another 200,000 km’s of motoring. I am now on the lookout for an older car to restore for fun. PS. Sign on a bumper sticker " Powered by Chequebook” Peter Rebbechi - Peter.rebbechi@meo.mts.dec.com From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 00:01:40 -0500 Subject: Re: Active" air-flow-meter Just my thoughts regarding “improving” the Jag, as usuall. What, loute, do you think about “active” air-flow-meter, where buterfly of current AFM will be replaced with “propeller” type buterfly (which is not a buterfly enymore, but true passive propeller). The rotation friquency rpm of such a propeller will feded to ECU as a function of consumed air. Axis of this propeller should be aligned in paralell with air flow which in turn should provide “turbo-effect”: more air through the same passage. Basicaly, you through away current AFM and instal instead such a small propeller with bicycle`s speedometer as a means of meassuring the amout of air. Propellor-based flowmeters are common items in industry. They all share a common fault: they tend to be inaccurate at low flows. Irregardless of how good the bearings are, it is still possible to flow a little air through it without the prop turning at all. Such would be a disaster for EFI operation. Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | – Palm’s Postulate From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 00:01:32 -0500 Subject: K & N Filters - XJ-S Question: Is a K & N Filter just a filter element, or does it include a different housing or otherwise modify the inlet scheme? Specifically, I’d like to know about the XJ-S – both for my own consideration in possibly buying a set and because I’d like to include the scoop in the XJ-S booklet. Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | – Palm’s Postulate From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 00:01:34 -0500 Subject: Re: Fire Extinguishers Why is it that the halogene extinguishers are not allowed anymore? Halogen is a CFC - damaging to the ozone layer. Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | – Palm’s Postulate From: Tom Graham TGraham@internetMCI.COM Date: Mon, 04 Mar 1996 21:32:57 -0500 Subject: Fwd: Re: Fire Extinguishers [ From: Tom Graham * EMC.Ver #2.3 ] – Why is it that the halogene extinguishers are not allowed anymore?. I For the same reason R-12 Freon has been banned. BTW, R-12 and R-22 Freon will smother out a fire, i.e., act as a fire extinguisher. (R-22 is the Freon typically used in commercial and home AC systems. It is still legal to buy). Cherio - Tom From: Tom Graham TGraham@internetMCI.COM Date: Mon, 04 Mar 1996 21:33:10 -0500 Subject: Fwd: Active" air-flow-meter [ From: Tom Graham * EMC.Ver #2.3 ] – Just my thoughts regarding “improving” the Jag, as usuall. What, loute, do you think about “active” air-flow-meter, where buterfly of current AFM will In playing with the air flow meter, I could not help but notice that the vane requires noticeable force to move. I.e., it resists the air flow and thus restricts airfow. Anyone know what pressure loss/drop the vane causes into the intake manifold. Just curious. Cherio - Tom From: Tom Graham TGraham@internetMCI.COM Date: Mon, 04 Mar 1996 21:33:44 -0500 Subject: Fwd: XK Cam timing [ From: Tom Graham * EMC.Ver #2.3 ] – Subject: XK Cam timing This idea of advancing the intake cam a few degrees is intriguing. Does anyone else have any experience with this? Other than a rocky idle, are there any disadvantadges to doing it? If it’s so beneficial, why didn’t the factory set Wellll, we are talking about late model XK engines, 1980-87, yes??? If so, where is your EGR valve??? My 87S3 does NOT have one. A Master Jag mechanic told me that Jag got around not having the EGR and cleaning up the emissions by changing the cam shaft timing. He recommends that the intake cam be retarded by 10 degrees and the exhaust cam be advanced by 10 degrees. (And no more than 10 degrees). He claims that performance will be the same but that the IDLE will be baby skin smooth. I don’t know. I proposed this to the group many moons ago and Michael Neal responded that he did not believe this to be entirely correct. Does anyone know the intake and exhaust cam timing PRE and POST the application of the EGR valve on the engine??? Cherio - Tom From: Tom Graham TGraham@internetMCI.COM Date: Mon, 04 Mar 1996 21:33:28 -0500 Subject: Fwd: Front Brake Caliper Shims - XJ [ From: Tom Graham * EMC.Ver #2.3 ] – Subject: Front Brake Caliper Shims - XJ Alright, after a review of the repair manual, I think I understand the reason for the shims between the steering arm and the front brake caliper. I have been told that the reason for the shims is WHEEL ALIGHMENT. Affecting the toe in/out. Does this make since??? Cherio - Tom From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com Date: Mon, 04 Mar 1996 21:25:52 -0800 Subject: Re: Fwd: Active" air-flow-meter OK guys, cool your jets. Bosch was way ahead of you here. The XJ40 uses a LH-Jetronic system. The airflow meter is actually an air-mass meter and uses a heated sensor wire to determine air flow. This design is much more efficient than the backfiring barndoor type meter. Tom Graham wrote:
– [ From: Tom Graham * EMC.Ver #2.3 ] –
Just my thoughts regarding “improving” the Jag, as usuall. What, loute,
do you
think about “active” air-flow-meter, where buterfly of current AFM willIn playing with the air flow meter, I could not help but notice that the
vane requires noticeable force to move. I.e., it resists the air flow and
thus restricts airfow. Anyone know what pressure loss/drop the vane causes
into the intake manifold. Just curious.
Cherio - Tom
From: Roly Alcock roly@redac.co.uk
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 08:24:41 +0000
Subject: Re: Weekend sworking, part 3
Ryan
Thanks for sharing your trials and tribulations.
So what else can go wrong now?!
Roly
Roly Alcock, (Postmaster) Principal Systems Engineer
Redac Systems Ltd, Tel: 01684 294161 ext. 211
Zuken-Redac Group Limited, Fax: 01684 298902
Green Lane, Internal redac E-mail: roly@redact
Tewkesbury, External E-mail: roly@redac.co.uk
Gloucestershire, GL20 8HE, UK Web: http://www.redac.co.uk
From: gleuma@dial.eunet.ch (Gerry Leumann)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 10:31:52 +0100
Subject: Re: brake booster - car to Europe
On March 3, Steve Cosgrove wrote:
(Question 1 and 2)
Question 3. This is the tough one. In June, I’m going to Germany to work=
for=20
three years. I could store the Jag here. But I’d really rather take it=
with. =20
My employer will ship one car for me as part of the employment contract. =
Any=20
thoughts on shipping the old girl over?
I have some experience shipping cars back and forth as I bought cars in the
US several times and shipped them over. Also I took classics over the the US
to participate on events.
If you want to be quite sure that the beauty arrives 100 % intact, use a
professional packer to fix the car in a 20’ container and ship it over
seafreight. Cost approx. $ 1500 one way. You can assist the locking of the
container and the opening, so you are sure nothing is stolen or destroyed.
Shop around with various shipping lines - pricing depends heavily on traffic
on the date in time you want to ship!
If you want speedier expedition (sea freight takes 4 - 8 weeks depending on
ports used and shipping lines) and are not too concerned about things stolen
from car (like back mirrors), ship within a few days from Charlotte, NC to
K=F6ln/Germany. Specialized freight line handling all the cars from US=
troops
stationed in Europe, very professional and so far no damage to my
experience. Cost approx. $ 1500 - 2000. Car is fixed on wood pallets and
loaded with a fork lift in and out of aircraft. Easy recovering in K=F6ln,=
but
use a forwarding company for all the red tape and paper work, costs little
and is efficient.
Worst way: Roll on/roll off. They sometimes drop the car with the crane when
unloading from a few feet, and I’ve seen those Carrera’s with all 4 wheels
folded out… They also drive cars on boats and out, and I’d better forget
how those dockers treat the vehicles. High risk of the chassis arriving with
no wheels and no coach on it, all stolen during transport.
Most expensive way (but of course also a very sure way): Use one of the
freight forwarders specializing in tranporting classic cars (see specialty
magazines’ ad section).
Best regards, and good luck
Gerry
(61 E type OTS, 53 Lagonda DHC, 67 Cooper S, 63 Volvo PV544 and British
pre-war stuff)
From: Gram@eumetsat.de
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 12:15:09 +0100
Subject: re : weekends working part2 - cam timing
Hi again Ryan,
I’m replying from work, so dont reply to this message but to
101454.2570@compuserve.com
When I say cam lobes outwards on TDC, I mean (as the rapair manual
means it) TDC on ignition, not on intake stroke about to begin. To time the
cams correctly the TDC must be achieved, ignition at no 6 cylinder (well
technically speaking 8 degrees after for SII . No 6 cylinder is the one
nearest the radiator. Then the cam lobes point outwards, and the timing
notch is pointing perpendicular up to the cam cover surface. There can be
no doubt and discussion about this. My referring to TDC should be read in
this way - sorry for not stating explicitly.
What you describe with no 6 cam lobe starting on an intake stroke at TDC
is correct, however then you cannot insert the timing tool.
If you can insert the timing tool with no 6 inlet lobe about to start an intake
stroke and exhaust cam just closing then… you have currently the
camshafts swapped… As I wrote in my last note this works quite OK -
the engine doesn’t care, however you cannot have ignition stroke TDC
and then insert the Jaguar timimg tool.
So I didn’t get it backwards…I bet an issue of Jaguar enthusiasts Club
magasine you still have something backwards.
The stress on the tappet guide I referred too is sidewards stress, making
the guide oval, or less round rather. I think the guide was properly seated.
I warned against this in my retainer final report note - own experience.
Regards Jeffrey Gram
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 03:21:33 -0800
Subject: Re: “Paul’s Discount Jaguar in Florida”
You wrote:
/or Paul’s Discount Jaguar in Florida that is mentioned in his 10/95
message.Any help in locating this outfit? Am heading to Florida in a
couple >weeks
Hi Scott, we deal with Paul in the Ft Lauderdale area for parts …
His tel # is 305 846 7976
and thought I’d check them out since I am in need of
replacement leather (at close to an affordable price)
I thinkhe has some old/orig sets and we may be selling him our
remanants… We can provide you new but that would be expensive…
and new center
console wood, since the PO left the roof open in the rain and shrank
the leather in front and warped the wood good!
He also has some sets at the same price it costs me to do them …so
reasonable…
kind regards
tony
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
From: Carl Christensen carl@domino.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 11:36:03 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: XK8 Launched at Geneva Motor Show
The XK8 will replace the XJS when it goes on sale in October.
It was launched this morning at the Geneva Motor Show and some excellent
photos and information can be found at http://www.collection.co.uk
Have fun
Regards
Carl
From: “J.W. Beckmeyer” 73131.3076@compuserve.com
Date: 05 Mar 96 07:17:50 EST
Subject: RE: New home for the list: questions
Hi all…
With the news that Doug is no longer able to maintain the list, I am wondering
what’s next. If Nick feels he has the time to maintain the list, then it is my
belief that moving it to Nick’s ISP would be the easiest transition in spite of
the cost involved…about US $150, right? Considering that we have over 600
members, we should easily be able to manage that.
So what is the group consensus? Personally, I feel that moving things to Nick’s
would be the easiest and may provide us with a seamless transition. If we can
make a decision soon, then it would give Nick some time to work out the bugs
and, hopefully, there won’t be any downtime.
Perhaps we can get Lawrence Buja (hello, Lawrence!) to use the account he set up
to handle the web page business to collect funds from the US members. If so,
count me in for $20.
Any thoughts from the list.members on this?
Doug, many, many thanks for your time and energy in helping keep the list up and
running with a minimum of number of glitches!!!
Best regards,
Jim Beckmeyer Union CIty, MI USA
e-mail: 73131.3076@compuserve.com
90 Jaguar XJ-40-Sovereign
60 Jaguar MK II
From: David Wood David.Wood@durham.ac.uk
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 12:30:02 PST
Subject: Re: Various but is Jaguar
On Mon, 26 Feb 1996 20:35:59 +0000 roly@redac.co.uk wrote:
- My '83 S3 XJ6 got through the annual MOT test. This is the 5th year that
it has passed first time. As usual I was given a shopping list of things to do
for next year. Exhaust, tyres, steering rack mounts, dispose of some surface
rust on the rear axle sub frame. Nothing that I was not unaware of any way.I prepared for the emissions test by changing plugs, air filter, oil, oil
filter, fuel filter ( some irrelevant I know ), and the initial readings
showed 5% of the whatevers instead of 4.5%. Many turns of the airflow
adjuster brought it down to 4.2%, then a 5 minute switch of engine then
restart saw a further drop to 3.7%. Hydrocarbons showed 120, and the limit
is 1200.Got any thoughts on the following:-
reducing emissions further,
plus I’ve heard today that a genuine Jaguar mild steel system is easier and
better value than a stainless system, particularly for installation.
Roly,
Although passing the limit of 4.5% CO, your value of 3.7% is still miles off - it
should be nearer 1.5 - 2.0%.
I had trouble with my XJ6 3.4 (twin carb) earlier this year, in particluar setting my
CO level meter against the garage reading. I initially failed with a (garage) reading
of 4.4%, later passed with 3.5% - only after that did I find out that the legal limit for
my car is 4.5%. Still, mine is still a problem, given that the maximum in the books
is 3.0%. I still can’t find out what is supposed to be the optimum, though!!
Cheers,
Dave Wood.
From: David Wood David.Wood@durham.ac.uk
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 12:48:57 PST
Subject: Brake pipes
Dear all,
Following on from Nick’s escape with his under-bonnet fire, a couple of questions
about brake pipes come to mind.
What is brake pipe flaring? Does it mean increasing the end diameter, as in flared
trousers??!! To what purpose? And what is a double flare?
At work, we routinely use fittings for high pressure gases. To make a join, first a
female type nut/seal is placed along the end of the pipe. Nearer the pipe end is
placed a collet. The pipe is then pushed into the threaded union piece, and the
tightening up of the nut holds the pipe in place, tightens the collet around the pipe
and makes a firm gas tight seal. All done in 316 stainless steel. Pipe diameters are
variable, but we always use 1/4 inch o/d.
Are there any similarities here with making and joining brake pipes?
Cheers,
Dave Wood.
From: carcraft@ozemail.com.au
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 23:24:39 +0930
Subject: [none]
Help carcraft@ozemail.com.au
From: Roly Alcock roly@redac.co.uk
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 13:11:39 +0000
Subject: Re: Various but is Jaguar
Dave Wood, Wrote
Roly,
Although passing the limit of 4.5% CO, your value of 3.7% is still miles off - it
should be nearer 1.5 - 2.0%.
I agree, one of the underbonnet labels states that emissions should be 1.5%,
but I have run out of ideas as to what I should do next.
Roly
Roly Alcock, (Postmaster) Principal Systems Engineer
Redac Systems Ltd, Tel: 01684 294161 ext. 211
Zuken-Redac Group Limited, Fax: 01684 298902
Green Lane, Internal redac E-mail: roly@redact
Tewkesbury, External E-mail: roly@redac.co.uk
Gloucestershire, GL20 8HE, UK Web: http://www.redac.co.uk
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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 6 March 1996 Volume 01 : Number 406
From: “R. Eugene Johnston (smp)” rej@cs.unc.edu
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 08:37:28 -0500
Subject: grabbing brakes
Ryan, I had the same problem sometime ago with my s1 xj6. It turned
out that my problem was a collapsed break line. This is a rubber line
just behind the right rear wheel that feeds both rear brakes. It is
a very small bore line and had collapsed so that the brake fluid
could not return, only flow one way, causing the rear brakes to grab
and not release. I discovered it the same way you are. The rear
brakes were smoking. check it out. Gene Johnston '72 XJ6, 53 MK7
From: ejt@wg.icl.co.uk (Ted Trim)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 14:11:32 GMT
Subject: re. weekend working and stuck brakes
Ryan,
Sorry to hear of all your tribulations; hope it goes well now. Thanks for
sharing.
With regard to your sticking rear brakes, I would check the flexible hose
that connects the main front to rear brake line to the rear axle. If this
has swollen internally (it happens) then it can act as a one way valve, letting
fluid through under the pressure of braking, but not allowing it to return.
This would produce the symptoms described.
Have you changed brake fluid type? If so, I would check the other flexibles
and perhaps all the seals too…
But isn’t it great when it goes!
Cheers,
Ted
From: “White, Dick” white@msgate.ColumbiaSC.ATTGIS.COM
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 96 09:43:00 edt
Subject: RE: New home for the list: questions
Providing Nick is willing to take this on it seems like a good way to go. I
am certainly willing to contribute if Lawrence can manage collection.
Dick White
Columbia, SC
'64 3.8 S-Type
'58 XK 150 FHC
From: J.W. Beckmeyer
To: Jaguar-lovers list- a
Subject: RE: New home for the list: questions
Date: Tuesday, March 05, 1996 7:17AMHi all…
With the news that Doug is no longer able to maintain the list, I am
wondering
what’s next. If Nick feels he has the time to maintain the list, then it
is
my
belief that moving it to Nick’s ISP would be the easiest transition in
spite
of
the cost involved…about US $150, right? Considering that we have over
600
members, we should easily be able to manage that.So what is the group consensus? Personally, I feel that moving things to
Nick’s
would be the easiest and may provide us with a seamless transition. If we
can
make a decision soon, then it would give Nick some time to work out the
bugs
and, hopefully, there won’t be any downtime.Perhaps we can get Lawrence Buja (hello, Lawrence!) to use the account he
set
up
to handle the web page business to collect funds from the US members. If
so,
count me in for $20.Any thoughts from the list.members on this?
Doug, many, many thanks for your time and energy in helping keep the list
up
and
running with a minimum of number of glitches!!!Best regards,
Jim Beckmeyer Union CIty, MI USA
e-mail: 73131.3076@compuserve.com
90 Jaguar XJ-40-Sovereign
60 Jaguar MK II
From: “White, Dick” white@msgate.ColumbiaSC.ATTGIS.COM
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 96 10:31:00 edt
Subject: RE: wood and finishes
Dan,
I’ll have to check my books but somewhere I read that either burled walnut
or rosewood were the choices. I have seen both. Mine is burled walnut and
I refinished it with several coats of spar ‘varnish.’ If you want to
replicate exactly the original you might note that the grain on the top cap
is symmetric about the center. Somehow they used two consecutive strips of
veneer and starting from the center they laid one from right to left and the
other from left to right. Incidentally on the top cap under the veneer it
is solid mahogany.
Dick White
3.8 S-Type
'58 XK 150 FHC
From: dxs
To: jag-lovers
Subject: wood and finishes
Date: Monday, March 04, 1996 3:18PMdoes anybody know what kind of wood and finishes were used in the
1964 s types? i am interested in restoring the wood in my car
and that info would be helpfull.
thanks,
dan stanger
From: Rob Westcott westcotr@belnet.bellevue.k12.wa.us
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 07:41:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Fire extiguishers
1993, JCNA Concours, Portland OR. Cleaning the MKII from the drizzly
drive down from Seattle, Pushy person waiting to get to the wash rack,
threw cleaning tools into trunk, drive away, minutes later spectator
notices “smoke” coming out of rear wheel wells, popped open trunk, no
fire, just slammed the trunk down on the hand valve, emptied the entire
type A size II into the trunk, white powder in every nook and cranny in
the boot…VERY long night cleaning the mess. (PS. We did win our class).
Rob (older and wiser) Westcott
From: aek@netcom.com (Andrew Kalman)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 08:14:15 -0800
Subject: Re: Fwd: Active" air-flow-meter
Hi Tom:
Re:
In playing with the air flow meter, I could not help but notice that the
vane requires noticeable force to move. I.e., it resists the air flow and
thus restricts airfow. Anyone know what pressure loss/drop the vane causes
into the intake manifold. Just curious.
Metric Mechanic (a BMW tuner) has measured Bosch vane-type air flow meters,
commonly used on the BMW “big six” (3.5l and variants), and they flow
around 500cfm. While this doesn’t tell you what the drop across the afm is,
it does show that the air flow ability of the afm is not the limiting
factor on that class of motors – in that case, it’s the throttle
butterfly. The newer, hot-film mass sensors are somewhat better, but I
understand it’s by no means a whopping increase in air flow.
| Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@netcom.com |
| standard disclaimers apply |
|___________________________________________|
From: aek@netcom.com (Andrew Kalman)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 08:14:11 -0800
Subject: Re: K & N Filters - XJ-S
Hi Kirby:
Re:
Question: Is a K & N Filter just a filter element, or does it include a
different housing or otherwise modify the inlet scheme?
The K&N for the Jag V12 is just a filter, a lot like the stock ones, except
that it doesn’t have that metal “deflector plate” in line with the throttle
butterfly.
They fit OK, not great.
| Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@netcom.com |
| standard disclaimers apply |
|___________________________________________|
From: Roger Langley lang0080@gold.tc.umn.edu ()
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 10:30:41
Subject: $, Geneva, and bid-by-mail
(1) Count me in for $20 for the admin costs
(2) When I try “www.connection.co.uk” for pictures of the new Jag announced at Geneva
I get “UNDER CONSTRUCTION” Advice?
(3) Has anyone ever bought a car from the Federal Lquidation Trustee
which is part of the State of Florida in Pompano Beach? I saw the ad in
the March Old Car Trader magazine. You can bid by mail. Advice?
Roger Langley
1983 XJ6
1973 Triumph GT6
1976 XJ12L (rest in peace for it is almost dead)
612 771 0806
lang0080@gold.tc.umn.edu
From: “White, Dick” white@msgate.ColumbiaSC.ATTGIS.COM
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 96 11:43:00 edt
Subject: RE: CR calculation, boring and skimming.
Jeff,
Good discussion. Comments below.
From: Jeffrey Gram
To: “White, Dick”
Cc: Hunt Dabney; Jag-lovers
Subject: CR calculation, boring and skimming.
Date: Saturday, March 02, 1996 5:57PMHi Dick, Hunt & list
After Dick’s reply to Me and Hunt, I got the algebra book out
Hey, no fair. I didn’t know this was an open book exam!
- not entirely
succesful but here it goes. I set up a general formula for calculating the
increased Compression Ratio. :
DW>CR = Volume at TDC/ Volume at BDC, or simplifying…
DW>CR = Volume above head surface/ [Volume above + Volume below]
DW>(simplification)
DW>When you bore the cylinders out you only affect Volume below (same
DW>simplification)Dick - this is not a simplification - it is the definition of Compression
ratio.
I know. I was splitting hairs which wasn’t really necessary. Since the top
of the piston at TDC does not actually meet the level of the mating surface,
when you bore the block you increase the volume of the ‘combustion chamber’
also a little bit. I was ignoring it.
The above calculation works also for Daimlers …:-).
Yeah, but will it work for lumps?..
As a last point and stuff to think about : Skimming your head changes valve
timing. Who calculates the change in valve timing after a 0.030" skimming ?
Well come on…
Uhhhh, maybe later.
Regards Jeffrey Gram
Regards,
Dick White
Columbia, SC
'64 3.8 S-Type
'58 XK 150 FHC
From: Ryan Border rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 09:04:20 -0800
Subject: Cam alignement (was sworking pt2)
Hi Jeffrey-
I think it’s starting to sound like Jaguar might have changed
the way they did this somewhere.
When I say cam lobes outwards on TDC, I mean (as the rapair manual
means it) TDC on ignition, not on intake stroke about to begin. To time the
cams correctly the TDC must be achieved, ignition at no 6 cylinder (well
technically speaking 8 degrees after for SII . No 6 cylinder is the one
nearest the radiator. Then the cam lobes point outwards, and the timing
notch is pointing perpendicular up to the cam cover surface. There can be
no doubt and discussion about this. My referring to TDC should be read in
this way - sorry for not stating explicitly.
I really think my motor might be different. I think that the
notches might be cut in a different place on my cams.
Aligning the cams with the tool, sets the motor so that #6 (closest
to the radiator) is at TDC, starting an intake stroke… not a
work stroke. Ignition at this point goes to #1. I’m not
going to tear the motor open again to verify, but after this
weekend, I’m %99 sure of this.
There was a major cam change made… I think with the XJ6. The cams
went to an “elliptical profile”, and I understand this is why the
valve clearances on an XJ-6 are .012-.014 for both intake and
exhaust… vs. the ~.006 setup on the earlier cars. Perhaps Jaguar
changed the notch location at this time too- reversing the way the
motors are setup…
So, I guess what I’m saying is that maybe we’re both right :-).
What you describe with no 6 cam lobe starting on an intake stroke at TDC
is correct, however then you cannot insert the timing tool.
With my cams… you can. With the cams aligned with the tool, one cam is
just starting to open a valve (note that it doesn’t matter which side the
cam is put on- it’s still just starting to open a valve). With the motor
at TDC, I rationalized that this HAS to be the intake cam: the exhaust valve
should NEVER open at TDC.
So I didn’t get it backwards…I bet an issue of Jaguar enthusiasts Club
magazine you still have something backwards.
Regards Jeffrey Gram
===== __ ============================================================== |> ===
/_\ Ryan Border o~_ o~_ | *
/ / / Hewlett Packard Company, Inc. >/-.>/’ /o| *
/ / / _______ Software Design Engineer ( )-–(*)-( )’ *
/ / //_____\ email: rborder@cup.hp.com or border@best.com *
/ / __ / / __ / 19111 Pruneridge Ave. mailstop 42LX, Cupertino, CA 95014 *
/ / / / / / // / (408) 447-2496 FAX: (408) 447-0641 *
//// / _____/ WWW: BestWeb.com - Lease or Buy Domain Names - Best Web Limited *
===== / / / ==================================================================
//
From: “Daniel S. Hayes” danh@Intelus.Com
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 12:25:43 -0500
Subject: CFCs
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 00:01:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Fire ExtinguishersWhy is it that the halogene extinguishers are not allowed anymore?
Halogen is a CFC - damaging to the ozone layer.
Your right Kirby. Unfortunately, the CFC/ozone scare is just that…a
scare tactic. A movement fueled by emotion and “the sky is falling” scare
tactics. The egregious results are the dislocation of thousands of
responsible American working families, a lose of our constitutional property
rights, and a burdensome financial cost to every American family. OK, I’ll
get down now…
Daniel S. Hayes
2200 Wilson Blvd., #102-226
Arlington, VA 22201
danh@intelus.com 64 3.8 Series I E-Type Coupe
301-990-6363x263 301-330-6707 Fax
March 5, 1996
12:20 pm
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 12:37:32 -0500
Subject: Updates to my WWW page
I have made a few updates to my WWW page. It now includes some pictures of
me, my wife, her pet chicken, and my XJ-S. Before you get excited, let me
say that the quality of the pictures is VERY disappointing; I will be
looking for another method to obtaining computer images.
http://gcn.scri.fsu.edu/~palmk
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 09:40:59 -0800
Subject: Re: oil leaks
David,
Find a good independent shop to fix your cam covers. Have him use
the latest dealer parts. The newest gaskets are gortex coated on a
metal shim. You should also replace all the bolts on the cam covers
with the latest style. The rubber half moon seal is important to get
sealed right. Jaguar hylosil must be used on all contacting surfaces of
the seal and on the rear section of the cam cover gasket at the end of
the cam tower. It’s also a good idea to replace the copper seals on the
cam oil feed tube.
David Lambert wrote:
Thanks for the info on Jags. My 89 XJ-S is leaking oil from the
right rear valve cover. It flows down the sheilding and onto the
first muffler where it creates fumes that enter the car. I am afraid
of tighting the bolts much. I know hwat the answer is. Take it to
the dealer and put new gaskets in place. My question is are there
any gaskets which are better then the factory ones. it seems these
are saturated with oil.thanks David Lambert
From: weems@cs.umass.edu (Chip Weems)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 12:47:29 -0500
Subject: XK8 Launched at Geneva Motor Show
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 11:36:03 +0000 (GMT)
From: Carl Christensen carl@domino.com
To: jag-lovers@psy.uwa.edu.au
Subject: XK8 Launched at Geneva Motor Show
From: kboetzer@auspex.com (Ken Boetzer)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 09:52:06 -0800
Subject: Re: CFCs
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 00:01:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Fire ExtinguishersWhy is it that the halogene extinguishers are not allowed anymore?
Halogen is a CFC - damaging to the ozone layer.
Your right Kirby. Unfortunately, the CFC/ozone scare is just that…a
scare tactic. A movement fueled by emotion and “the sky is falling” scare
tactics. The egregious results are the dislocation of thousands of
responsible American working families, a lose of our constitutional property
rights, and a burdensome financial cost to every American family. OK, I’ll
get down now…Daniel S. Hayes
Of course what would we have lost had the things gone the other way. Nothing
of much importance I guess.
You never know what you got till it’s gone.
Cheers,
Ken Boetzer
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 11:57:14 -0600
Subject: Front end shims and alignment
I have analysed this very carefully. A .020 inch spacer at 4" fron the
center of rotation results in less than 1/200th of a degree in toe in
change. There is no alignment machine that accurate.
The stearing arm is made of malable material not cast so it does not need to
be shimmed. It will bend into the shape neccessary as the bolts are
tightened and it wont hurt it. I have seen stearing arms that were bent
90degrees and they did not break. I doubt that I would have straightened
them and used them, but they dont require a .02" shim.
I can only conclude that in typical English fashion a cure was developed for
a non problem. When the XJ6 first came out, an engineer noticed a
specification deviation in the incomming brake calipers and decide to shim
to correct for the errors. No one ever analysed the situation to decide if
it was needed.
I think this also applies to the exhaust (straight vs “s”) maybe in the
Series one with a slightly different body shape there was a problem. On my
series 3 there IS NO PROBLEM. I have tried every possible combination of
windows and sun roof and at several different speed for the past two weeks.
NO PROBLEM.
But once a cure is found, people hate to change.
The shims could only effect the toe in and only in a very small amount. The
tangent of the angle is .02 inches devided by 4" when the tangent is small
it is approximately the same as the angle. Thus the angle is less than
1/200th of a degree per shim. Also this angle is devided in two because it
is distributed across both sides!!
Someone prove me wrong please. Maybe my math is wrong since I dont have my
slide rule with me.
Jim
===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"
John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 12:04:13 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Fire Extinguishers
On Tue, 5 Mar 1996, Kirby Palm wrote:
Why is it that the halogene extinguishers are not allowed anymore?
Halogen is a CFC - damaging to the ozone layer.
SUPPOSIDLY damaging to the ozone layer, particularly over the South
Pole. But we must be absolutely safe here. Just think of all the cancer
deaths that would result from excessive South Pole ultraviolet radiation and
compare that to the security of an automobile fire (not to mention
other fires for which Halon is eminently suited). I suppose that the
smoke, ash, spilled hydrocarbons, and dry-powder residue must be
considered to be non-poluting.
Will this madness never stop?
Larry Lee
From: weems@cs.umass.edu (Chip Weems)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 13:17:10 -0500
Subject: Re:XK8 Launched at Geneva Motor Show
Let me try this again – for some reason the latter half of my message
got dropped in transmission.
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 11:36:03 +0000 (GMT)
From: Carl Christensen carl@domino.com
To: jag-lovers@psy.uwa.edu.au
Subject: XK8 Launched at Geneva Motor Show
.
.
It was launched this morning at the Geneva Motor Show and some excellent
photos and information can be found at http://www.collection.co.ukHave fun
Regards
Carl
The server has been erratic in its response – probably overloaded right
now. But I was eventually able to access all of the large images. So
keep trying.
Whether you like the styling or not is a matter of taste. I can
certainly see design elements of E-type, XJS, and XJ-220 in it. But I’m
surprised that anyone would introduce a sport coupe without a sun
roof these days. Maybe it’s an option that wasn’t put into the photo
car?
Chip
From: LLoyd 3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@cmsa.Berkeley.EDU
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 96 10:13:05 PST
Subject: List Administration
Thought I should get my two cents worth in. I e-mailed Nick with this thought
and will share it with the group.
I think it’s great that Nick is willing to take on the job. But at the same
time I’m concerned with the amount of work he is doing for the group. I think
it is healthier to spread the workload around a bit. We don’t want anyone to
get burned out. With some 600 members, there must be someeone who can administ
er the list for a while. I would, but can’t in my current situation.
Someone might be willing to step foreward to admin. the list for a year;
then another. I don’t know if that would work, just a suggestion.
LLoyd '71 ‘e’ cut in half-
From: Peter Pesch pesch@grendel.astr.cwru.edu
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 13:45:14 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Lumps & S-Shaped Exhaust Tips
Further comments on “lumps” and s-shaped exhaust tips.
What is the true essence of a Jaguar? Is it the engine? Well, the sidecars (recall that the first
products manufactured by what eventually became the company named Jaguar were motorcycle
sidecars) had no engines. The Austin Swallows, which were the first automobiles designed and
made by William Lyons and his partner, used an Austin chassis and engine. The SS (Super
Swallows) series started with an engine and chassis made by the Standard Co. After WW II
came the straight six, dual overhead camshaft that was used for so many years (38). Then came
the 12 cylinder engine, the AJ6, and, in the future, according to rumors, a V8 is expected.
William Lyons was not an engineer, and, to the best of my knowledge, never designed an engine.
So the engine is not the essence of a Jaguar. What about the interior? Nothing unique there.
Other cars have leather and wood interiors, some more luxurious, some less. Is a Jaguar defined
by being a “sportscar?” Clearly not, since sedans (saloons) were offered from the very beginning.
How about corporate ownership? No continuity there either. From Lyons and partner to Jaguar
to British Motor Corporation to Leyland Motors to nationalization and back to privatization and
now Ford Motor Co. What really defines a Jaguar is the unique appearance, the beautiful shape.
To the best of my knowledge, it was the influence of Sir William Lyons that is responsible for
these designs, beginning, yes, with the sidecars. Sir William’s pre-war cars were attractive but
fairly conventional. The XK 120, which appeared just after WWII, was a remarkable departure
from previous models. Comparing the post-war MGs and Morgans with the XK 120 makes it
clear why the XK 120 was once on display at the Museum of Modern Art in New York (the
hood, or bonnet, was closed, so that the engine was not visible). The long continuity of Sir
William’s aesthetic influence, spanning the period from before WWII until the XJ, is probably
unique in the realm of industrial design. (I believe The E and the XJ-S designs were not primarily
Sir William’s.)
Therefore, although I personally have no qualms about having installed a 5.7 litre Chevvy V8
into my 1976 XJ L, it would NEVER occur to me to replace the s-shaped exhaust tips with
straight ones. To alter the APPEARANCE of a Jaguar is a violation of the true essence of one of
Sir William’s creations, something only a barbarian, Philistine, or vandal would undertake.
Peter Pesch
1959 XK 150 fhc
1967 XKE 2+2
1976 XJV8L
1985 XJ S
From: spe00@eng.amdahl.com (Silas Elash)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 96 10:55:20 PST
Subject: Re: wood and finishes
Dan,
Could you please forward any offline responses you get to this
one. I am doing the wood thing on my 62 MK2- I suspect the
processes were the same from the factory. I think that the
original finish was a lacquer type finish. The modern polyurethatne
finishes may be better- BUT I have not convinced myself yet. Lacquer is
very forgiving in its application. I dont think that polyurathane
is. Any comments or info for the great cyberjag universe?
Silas
From owner-jag-lovers@psy.uwa.edu.au Tue Mar 5 02:35:12 1996
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 1996 15:18:16 -0700
From: dxs@evolving.com (Dan Stanger)
To: jag-lovers@psy.uwa.edu.au
Subject: wood and finishes
Sender: owner-jag-lovers@psy.uwa.edu.au
Content-Length: 182does anybody know what kind of wood and finishes were used in the
1964 s types? i am interested in restoring the wood in my car
and that info would be helpfull.
thanks,
dan stanger
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 14:00:10 -0500
Subject: RE: New home for the list
Personally, I feel that moving things to Nick’s
would be the easiest and may provide us with a seamless transition.
Since it looks like the address will be changing anyway, I will repeat a
suggestion I have made before: The name/address of this list should include
the word “jaguar” in its entirety. Most people on the Internet use various
types of search engines to find what they’re looking for, and search engines
usually involve typing in a keyword. If someone is looking for “jaguar”
they will NOT find this list! As a result, the only people who find out
that we exist is people who are told by others or find Nick’s WWW page –
which DOES include jaguar in its name.
Including “daimler” would be a plus. Perhaps an address like
jaguar-daimler-L@such.and.such
I suppose that I will also express the opinion that trying to charge
subscribers $$$ to keep this list going will probably not work. Donations
for presents for Nick have worked in the past, but formalizing the procedure
is not likely to go over well.
I would like to ask one question of a technical nature: Does the person
responsible for the list have to be in the same physical location as the
server? Could the list stay at psy.uwa.edu.au, but be administered by
someone somewhere else?
Finally, one last suggestion: If the list moves, will it be possible to
post a notice at the old location informing anyone who sends messages or
tries to subscribe of the new location?
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 6 March 1996 Volume 01 : Number 407
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 14:00:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Brake pipes
What is brake pipe flaring? Does it mean increasing the end diameter, as in
flared
trousers??!! To what purpose?
It involves forming a fitting into the end of the tubing itself. First you
slide a nut over the tube, then you flare the end of the tube to look like this:
________/
________
\
The nut has a matching tapered surface on the inside, and the fitting being
connected to has a tapered surface on the end. When the end of the tube is
put against the male connector and the nut is threaded on an tightened, the
two tapers compress against this flared portion of the tube, providing both
physical retention and seal. Obviously, the tubing must be pretty soft for
this to work.
And what is a double flare?
I think this refers to a slightly more complex shaping of the end of the
tube to form a better seal using the same fittings. Rather than simply
flaring the metal outward, it is folded back inward so that the flare itself
is two layers thick. Let’s see if my ASCII talents hold up:
_________//
_________
\\
I guess not, perhaps someone else is better with the ASCII art. When
formed, the metal of the tube flares outward, and then folds back inward.
Since the metal is two layers thick where the nuts compresses on it, it
makes a better seal.
When I worked on jet engines, it was interesting to see where this standard
fitting had progressed – to what is called an AN fitting. First, the
tubing used was entirely too hard for forming such flares, so instead a
machined fitting was brazed or welded onto the end of the tube to provide
the same tapered fit. The male connector was unchanged, but the nut now has
a flat surface on the inside that mates to a flat surface on the brazed-on
fitting.
Of course, the brazed-on fitting itself is too hard to form a good seal when
the nut is tightened, so someone came up with soft copper seals that are
inserted over the end of the male fitting before the tube is attached. They
often get jarred loose as the nut is being tightened and end up cockeyed
within the fitting, not only leaking but sometimes blocking off the flow.
Then someone decided that the copper seals are not expensive enough for
military use, and the seals themselves were replaced with a soft nickle
alloy seal.
The brazed-on fittings actually are an endurance problem; since the tubing
and the fitting are hard, the vibrations tend to cause cracking in the braze
material itself. Fortunately, when a leak appears, it’s relatively easy to
rebraze the joint and put it all back together.
I have seen AN fittings as large as four inches. At that size, it requires
about a million foot-pounds of torque on the nut to get a good seal, so they
always leak. But they usually seal very well in sizes of one inch or smaller.
At work, we routinely use fittings for high pressure gases. To make a join,
first a
female type nut/seal is placed along the end of the pipe. Nearer the pipe
end is
placed a collet. The pipe is then pushed into the threaded union piece, and
the
tightening up of the nut holds the pipe in place, tightens the collet
around the pipe
and makes a firm gas tight seal. All done in 316 stainless steel. Pipe
diameters are
variable, but we always use 1/4 inch o/d.Are there any similarities here with making and joining brake pipes?
Not really. However, the method you describe is used on fuel lines in the
Jaguar, as well as on plumbing around the house.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 14:00:17 -0500
Subject: stuck brakes
With regard to your sticking rear brakes, I would check the flexible hose
that connects the main front to rear brake line to the rear axle.
Man, EVERYBODY is suggesting the flexible hose! Must be something to it.
As creator of the XJ-S help booklet, I’d like to know if I should be
including something on this failure mode. Does it also apply to the XJ-S,
with its power-assisted brakes? Does it also apply to cars with ABS? Does
it only apply to really old cars, or can relatively new brake lines fail
this way?
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 14:00:07 -0500
Subject: TDC
When I say cam lobes outwards on TDC, I mean (as the rapair manual
means it) TDC on ignition, not on intake stroke about to begin. To time the
cams correctly the TDC must be achieved, ignition at no 6 cylinder (well
technically speaking 8 degrees after for SII .
Please, please, PLEASE! Jaguar may number their cylinders backwards, but
there is no room for varying interpretations of what “TDC” means. TDC is
Top Dead Center, and that is that. It is not 8 degrees after TDC. If you
mean 8 degrees after TDC, then SAY “8 degrees after TDC.”
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: wayner@sunbrew.Central.Sun.COM (Jim Wayner Sun Wisconsin SE)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 13:41:51 -0600
Subject: Subject: Re: wood and finishes
Dan,
Could you please forward any offline responses you get to this
one. I am doing the wood thing on my 62 MK2- I suspect the
etc…
It would be WONDERFUL if you could post as a summary any offline
info you get. I am starting on my '60 MKII this spring and have
the same questions. There’s probably others who may be interested
as well.
thanks,
Jim Wayner
From: turborat@atlcom.net
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 96 14:06:22 -0500
Subject: Re: K&N filters
Kirby Palm writes:
Question: Is a K & N Filter just a filter element, or does it include a
different housing or otherwise modify the inlet scheme?Specifically, I’d like to know about the XJ-S – both for my own
consideration in possibly buying a set and because I’d like to include the
scoop in the XJ-S booklet.
The K&N filter unit for the XJS requires no modifications to the air filter
housing. The profile and size is the same as the original equipment type.
The part number is 33-2011 (71-93, or so K&N tells me). I have ordered the
filters and am waiting to see whether the metal backing plate or similar
baffle exists as is does on the OE type. (K&N was unable to provide a
detailed description of the filter)
You can reach K&N at 1-800-858-333, 8am-4pm M-F (Pacific) for technical
questions.
Regards:
Paul
'86 XJS
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 14:53:14 -0500
Subject: Re: oil leaks
The rubber half moon seal is important to get
sealed right. Jaguar hylosil must be used on all contacting surfaces of
the seal and on the rear section of the cam cover gasket at the end of
the cam tower.
Y’know, I’ve been thinking about this. It seems to me that it’d be a good
idea to make an aluminum plug to replace this half moon seal. A short piece
of thin generic gasket material could seal the bottom curved surface of the
plug to the cam support. Then the cam cover gasket would be sitting on a
hard aluminum surface, where it could get properly compressed and seal the
way it was intended.
I would think it wouldn’t cost too much to set up production of workable
aluminum seals, and just about every V12 owner would be interested in buying
a pair.
I was also thinking about another, simpler method: How about taking the
stock half-moon seal and putting a hole through it, and fitting it with a
bolt, nut, and a pair of half-moon-shaped washers. After the cam cover is
installed and torqued down, the nut could be tightened, expanding the seal
in the opening the way a rubber freeze plug works. It might even be
possible to tighten the nut a little more later on if it starts leaking.
Comments?
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 14:53:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Front end shims and alignment
I have analysed this very carefully. A .020 inch spacer at 4" fron the
center of rotation results in less than 1/200th of a degree in toe in
change. There is no alignment machine that accurate.
I’m not sure I agree with the details, but I might agree with the
conclusion. The steering arm is held to the upright with two bolts, and the
tie rod end is attached out on the end of the cantilever. Moving the
attachment closest to the tie rod end over by .020" will cause the tie rod
end to move more than that by the proportion of the lengths between these
two points and the other bolt. Assuming that to be about 2:1, the tie rod
end will move about .040". But this may still be considered insignificant.
The stearing arm is made of malable material not cast so it does not need to
be shimmed. It will bend into the shape neccessary as the bolts are
tightened and it wont hurt it.
I would have judged the thing to be cast iron. Whatever, you won’t catch me
deliberately installing it in a distorted position. I like the flats on the
steering arm to sit flat on the upright and caliper, not cockeyed. I’m just
finicky that way.
I can only conclude that in typical English fashion a cure was developed for
a non problem.
Agreed. Any rational engineer would have designed the caliper to be wide
enough to include the new pads PLUS any tolerance in location, and simply
let the pucks move over to where the disk is. A shimming setup is totally
unnecessary here.
However, since Jaguar put it there for good reasons or bad, I will be
reinstalling the shims as they come out.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 19:47:07 -0100
Subject: Re: List Administration
[ LLoyd 3030PAVPGS.BITNET@cmsa.Berkeley.EDU ]
| I think it’s great that Nick is willing to take on the job. But at the same
| time I’m concerned with the amount of work he is doing for the group. I think
| it is healthier to spread the workload around a bit. We don’t want anyone to
| get burned out.
Thanks for your concern
| With some 600 members, there must be someeone who can administ
| er the list for a while. I would, but can’t in my current situation.
| Someone might be willing to step foreward to admin. the list for a year;
| then another. I don’t know if that would work, just a suggestion.
The real beaty of the majordomo list-server is that it can be
administrated from anywhere. Say if I set it up now, I could
pass the admin-function on to someone else at a later date, all
totally transparently to the list-members.
Nick
<<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>>
<<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>>
The Jaguar enthusiasts WWW-site <<<
From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 16:13:16 -0500
Subject: Re: K & N Filters - XJ-S
At 12:01 AM 3/5/96 -0500, Kirby Palm wrote:
Question: Is a K & N Filter just a filter element, or does it include a
different housing or otherwise modify the inlet scheme?Specifically, I’d like to know about the XJ-S – both for my own
consideration in possibly buying a set and because I’d like to include the
scoop in the XJ-S booklet.
K&N has both ‘stock’ filter element replacements and general-purpose units
of varying dimensions and features (ram air kits).
I am awaiting my K&N catalog to help me decide which way I’ll go on my XJ-S.
I already have big air horns, and can simply add their replacement filter or
trash everything and adapt one of their generic filters. (Club racers I’ve
seen take the latter approach; I don’t know how much that arrangement would
benefit a street car that already has 2 1/2" air horns.)
Regards,
John
Napoli
From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 16:28:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Brake pipes
At 12:48 PM 3/5/96 PST, David Wood wrote:
Dear all,
Following on from Nick’s escape with his under-bonnet fire, a couple of
questions
about brake pipes come to mind.What is brake pipe flaring? Does it mean increasing the end diameter, as in
flared
trousers??!! To what purpose? And what is a double flare?At work, we routinely use fittings for high pressure gases. To make a join,
first a
female type nut/seal is placed along the end of the pipe. Nearer the pipe
end is
placed a collet. The pipe is then pushed into the threaded union piece, and
the
tightening up of the nut holds the pipe in place, tightens the collet
around the pipe
and makes a firm gas tight seal. All done in 316 stainless steel. Pipe
diameters are
variable, but we always use 1/4 inch o/d.Are there any similarities here with making and joining brake pipes?
Not really. Flaring means increasing the end diameter of the tubing –
think of the end of a trumpet. The seal is created by squeezing this flare
between the fittings. Double flaring is turning the outside edges of the
flared tube back down in on itself. This is to eliminate cracks and provide
a more robust sealing surface, and is the ticket for high pressure applications.
Regards,
John
Napoli
From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 11:37:35 -0800
Subject: Re: oil leaks
I think that the aluminum plug is a great idea. If the stock half
moon is sealed properly it won’t leak for many years but any improvement
would be good.
Kirby Palm wrote:
The rubber half moon seal is important to get
sealed right. Jaguar hylosil must be used on all contacting surfaces of
the seal and on the rear section of the cam cover gasket at the end of
the cam tower.Y’know, I’ve been thinking about this. It seems to me that it’d be a good
idea to make an aluminum plug to replace this half moon seal. A short piece
of thin generic gasket material could seal the bottom curved surface of the
plug to the cam support. Then the cam cover gasket would be sitting on a
hard aluminum surface, where it could get properly compressed and seal the
way it was intended.
From: tony goodall tony@goodall.u-net.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 22:26:02 -0000
Subject: Re: JAGUAR XJ40
At 22:33 04/03/96 -0000, CHRIS GILDEA wrote:
My name is Chris Gildea and I live in a small Derbyshire Village called
Chapel-en-le-Frith which is in the U.K. My Compuserve ID is 101374.3465
I live in N.Manchester, not far away
I am looking to purchase within the next few weeks or so, a 1989/1990=
Jaguar
XJ40 3.6L Sovereign
I’ve got a Daimler sov of that age/spec
Q1. Does any member have any information on what problems that a=
Sovereign of
that age will have? Are there any particular areas of the vehicle which I
should concentrate upon? Eg. Body corrosion, Gearbox faults, Interior=
problems
Door handles sticking (or already loose) - =A3130,=20
knackered sun-roof =A380+,=20
servo motors on air-vents - check that all vents give hot and cold air when
required!
air/con chills properly
bulb-failure modules - if this comes up on the on-board computer,
=A340-80 per side to fix.
boot lid corrosion
brake pressure not on in VCM either -reservoir can be worn
wheel bearings
discs
has it got TD metric tyres (390s) - if not well done!!!
Q2. Does any member have a full U.K. specification of both the engine and
interior? I am looking for a car which will have full leather interior,
automatic gearbox, electric sunroof as well as the basic Sovereign
specification.
sov has all that ( I think)
email me for more info (incl phone number)
cheers
tony
Dr. A. Goodall http://www.u-net.com/~goodall/
From: Shayak Bhattacharya zap@rip.it.bond.edu.au
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 08:15:37 +1000 (EST)
Subject: XJ 220 site…
Do any of you know of a good site where i can get a few jpgs, gifs of
XJ220? Any help would be much appreciated.
Cheers,
Shayak.
================================================================================
Dulce et Decorum est Pro Patria mori
_____ ____
__ | _ \ Shayak Bhattacharya
/ _ || / Bond University
/ || Gold Coast, Australia, Qld 4229
/______ \___/|| zap@rip.it.bond.edu.au
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 18:10:23 -0500
Subject: Re: List Administration
I think
it is healthier to spread the workload around a bit.
Agreed. I would, but I already maintain the XJ-S booklet (which has taken
quite some time lately) and feel that spreading the workload around means I
shouldn’t take this on. Besides, I dunno if the server I use can handle
the list serving duties, or whether I could administer the list where it is
from afar.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 05 Mar 96 18:48:28 EST
Subject: Re: oil leaks
David Lambert
Fixing cam cover oil leaks is the easiest task on a jag. Forget dealers and
fancy gaskets. You need 2 hours spare time, some rags and cleaning solution, and
a pack of HYLOMAR (blue) liquid gasket. Cam covers off (a sharp stanley
knifeblade and a hammer can be handy in parting the cam cover from the gasket -
gentle and controlled of course.
covers off - clean all mating surfaces thoroughly. Apply HYLOMAR gasket sealant
on the camcover mating face only towards the outside egde and about halfway to
the inner egde. apply a coat of about 3 mm wide and 1 -2 mm high. let the cover
predry for 20 minutes. Meantime replace rubbergrommet seal at camshaft rear (w
hich you ordered in advance). Smear with hylomar, predry mount and cover back
on and bolt down. New copper wasers under the domenuts is nice. Same on other
side. Leave thestuff to dry over 3 hours - Voila. No more oil leaks from there.
Notice : No “standard” gaskets - who needs those ? - waste of money.
Regards Jeffrey Gram
From: TVJohnMM@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 18:56:14 -0500
Subject: Fwd: XJ40 side “repeater” lights
This “bounced” back the 1st time I sent it.
Forwarded message:
Subj: XJ40 side “repeater” lights
Date: 96-02-27 18:54:51 EST
From: TVJohnMM
To: jag-lovers@psy.uwa.edu.au
US spec XJ40s have the turn signal repeaters in the front fenders (wings?)
replaced by Jag cat logos.
Does anyone know if the wiring harnesses for US cars have an existing place
to plug in these lights? If so, does the turn signal circuitry or flasher
need different parts? Finally where can I buy these parts in the US or
Canada ???
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 05 Mar 96 18:48:30 EST
Subject: TDC
Kirbert,
There is always at least two interpretations of a statement…
When I say cam lobes outwards on TDC, I mean (as the rapair manual
means it) TDC on ignition, not on intake stroke about to begin. To time the
cams correctly the TDC must be achieved, ignition at no 6 cylinder (well
technically speaking 8 degrees after for SII .
Please, please, PLEASE! Jaguar may number their cylinders backwards, but
there is no room for varying interpretations of what “TDC” means. TDC is
Top Dead Center, and that is that. It is not 8 degrees after TDC. If you
mean 8 degrees after TDC, then SAY “8 degrees after TDC.”
“after” does not refer to TDC. It refers latest issue mentioned, thus to the
ignition point being 8 degrees before TDC, thus it is not really “ignition” on
No 6 at No 6 TDC, but TDC is 8 degrees after ignition, - in fact just as I wrote
it. How can you think that I think of something “8 deg after TDC” ??
That would have no meaning .
Restez Calme… Jeff
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 05 Mar 96 18:48:40 EST
Subject: Cam alignment- URGENT WARNING
Hi Ryan,
DONT START YOUR ENGINE AGAIN BEFORE READING THIS - YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.
Input in this matter confirming or otherwise from other list experts are
welcome - a fellow members engine is at stake.*
I think it’s starting to sound like Jaguar might have changed
the way they did this somewhere.
Definately not Ryan. I have now spent another 3 hours looking and measuring on a
set of camshafts I have extra, and reasoning and measuring what difference it
makes to swap camshafts from the correct (in my opinion, and the jaguar repair
operation manuals E188/4 (Series 2) & AMK9006 for Series 3) i.e nothches up and
no 6 cylinder camlobes outwards and upwards (exhaust lobe towards exhaust ,
inlet cam lobe towards inlet side) to the incorrect way - which you apparently
have.
I said earlier the exhaust and inlet camshaft are identical apart from the notch
position, however it turns out there is another slight difference - the
positioning of the lobes in relation to the camshaft bolt holes is also
different although “symmetrically different” - this is however not so important
at the moment.
I really think my motor might be different. I think that the
notches might be cut in a different place on my cams.
NO !! - all cams are identical in layout of lobe position in relation to notch,
from XK120 in 1948 to XJ6 Series 3 1986. Lift and profile has changed.
Aligning the cams with the tool, sets the motor so that #6 (closest
to the radiator) is at TDC, starting an intake stroke… not a
work stroke. Ignition at this point goes to #1. I’m not
going to tear the motor open again to verify, but after this
weekend, I’m %99 sure of this.
Above info was the missing link in the puzzle as I see it. Here comes the
hammer: When setting crank to TDC on no 6 cylinder (no 1 is also at TDC then),
and setting the camlobes on no 6 inwards and upwards (such that the timing tool
C3993 fits in the notches), then the ignition “has” to fire at no 1 cylinder
otherwise engine could not run. HOWEVER it is supposed to be firing at no 6
cylinder with No 6 at TDC and timing tool inserted. No 1 cylinder is 180
degrees “behind” no 6 with firing order 153624 - something is wrong - how do I
prove that it is wrong ?. - by looking at the cam lobes on the firing cylinder (
- in your setup. In your case the cam lobes on no 1 cylinder are outwards and
DOWNWARDS, Thus from TDC until exhaust valve opens fully there is only 60 cam
degrees or 120 crank degrees - this is definately not right. Actually exhaust
valve starts opening shortly after TDC. Likewise at TDC on no 1 in your set up,
the inlet valve has just closed - far to late.
The above setup is apparently able to run however must be with much reduced
power, and I think there is a real risk of burning the exhaust valves. This is
also the reason for your engine’s “throathy” sound - the valve timing is
completely screwed up.
With the camshafts correctly mounted as I wrote in the beginning of this note
the No 6 lobes are outwards and upwards, thus leaving a span 120 cam degrees
before exhaust valve is fully open after ignition ( 240 crank degrees) - now
this is much more acceptable. Likewise at TDC on NO6 the inlet valve is 120
after fully open, thus allowing compression to build up.
Well Ryan - sit down, draw this and convince yourself, then cam covers off to
see that me not speaks with twisted tongue…
Remedy of your mess :
Turn engine until timing tool fits. Unbolt upper two bolts on each camshaft.
Turn engine 360 degrees to TDC (camshafts move 180 degrees). Since the cam lobes
were inwards and upwards, they are now outwards and downwards, and distributor
is at no 6. Convince yourself once again that the current cam timing cannot be
correct. Unbolt remaining 4 cam bolts (dont… drop them…).and secure
sprockets losely with Losen both camshafts completely, swap them over, and bolt
them down with notch up, no 6 lobes outwards and up. Note that the timing tool
allows
slack - make sure the slack is equally great on either side - forget all
ambitious ideas of advancing the inlet valve timing.
Fit sprockets - you will notice that the holes in the sprocket dont fit the
camshaft holes anymore. You will now have to undo the steel o-ring that secures
the sprocket center tethed part to the outer chain carrying part. Stuff a rag
down next to the sprocket , just in case the spring goes SPOIIIIINNNNGGG.
Carefully lift the centerpart out 1 cm rotate to fit camshaft holes and refit
back in . If it does not fit either close or next to close (one tooth’s
difference) then turn centerpart 90 degrees and try around this position. Do
this on both sprockets. Fit bolts on upper part of both camshafts. Tighten
Chain, (leave slight slack). Step back and check everything again. If correct
turn engine 360 degrees (remember to remove rags) and fit remaining bolts.
Perhaps Jaguar changed the notch location at this time too- reversing the way
the
motors are setup…
Clutching at straws ?..Definately not - That would have been sheer madness.
So, I guess what I’m saying is that maybe we’re both right :-).
Partly … but still the essence is that your setup is incorrect.
Back in the garage …
Basically your cams were in the right place after the first (second) head swap,
however timing was
off causing the reverse pumping action.
Regards Jeffrey Gram
ps. You had me thinking for a moment that MY cams were incorrectly installed
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 96 16:30:39 PST
Subject: re: XK8 Launched at Geneva Motor Show
The XK8 will replace the XJS when it goes on sale in October.
It was launched this morning at the Geneva Motor Show and some excellent
photos and information can be found at http://www.collection.co.uk
Wow! The pictures are finally out. I must say the pictures are indeed of
excellent quality.
As for the car, I don’t know; it looks pretty Japanese. In fact, it looks
remarkly close to the drawings printed in Car and Driver a few months back.
It also looks very similar to the new Aston DB7 (I wonder if these two
cars share the same body shell). I guess I was expecting something dramatically
different…
It will probably sell well though. After all, there’s a big crowd out there
that thinks the styling of the Lexus coupe is exciting.
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 6 March 1996 Volume 01 : Number 408
From: blackmx5@usa.pipeline.com (Lawrence Karpman)
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 01:03:07 GMT
Subject: Trip Computer
Just returned from a 400 mile trip this weekend. My usually reliable trip
computer ('85 SIII) was giving me indications of tremendously high fuel
consumption, average speeds of 122 MPH, and when I accelerated my fuel
usage fell, and when I let off fuel usage rose. Really weird.
The only thing I’ve done recently was to disassemble and clean the cruise
control rocker switch (cruise still won’t work) and reassemble. Might have
done it wrong as the contacts are not symetrical and I may have put them in
incorrectly. No way to tell with a non functional cruise control. I know
the trip computer is wired thru the ECU, but not sure about the cruise.
Anyone know how much room is behind the trip computer. Seems like a great
place for a CD player!
OH, OH, OH!!! Just saw the XJ-8 on TV. I’ll take two!!!
Larry Karpman
'85 XJ-6
From: Tony Watts amw@maths.uq.oz.au
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 11:04:48 +1000
Subject: cam phasing
Following robert dingli’s discussion about cam phasing, I got out the Bosch
Automotive Handbook (which I first heard about through this list).
There is a section about cam timing under the heading “gas exchange”.
I should predicate these comments by saying that I have no practical
experience of changing valve timing, and I am not familiar with the innards
of the XK engine. Somebody with a spare head should have a look and answer
Robert’s question about whether the valves might hit each other if the
timing is changed.
Exhaust valve cams are usually timed to start opening 45 to 60 degrees
before bottom dead centre (BDC) on the power stroke and 50% of the exhaust
gases leave the cylinder before BDC. The exhaust valve closes 5 to 20
degrees after top dead centre (TDC) at the end of the exhaust stroke. The
inlet valve starts to open 10 to 15 degrees before TDC, so that there is an
overlap when both inlet and exhaust valves are open. The inlet valve
closes 40 to 60 degrees after BDC at the end of the induction stroke.
Increased overlap is usually thought to be useful at higher revs and
therefore I don’t see why advancing the inlet cams and increasing the
overlap would be more effective at lower speeds (<4000) as Robert suggests
than at higher speeds. I doubt if closing the inlet valve earlier at low
speed would make a significant improvement unless it is already very much
delayed and is encroaching on the compression stroke too much. It is true
though that delaying the closing of the inlet valve is beneficial more for
higher speeds.
If the inlet valves are opened before TDC, some of the exhaust gases will
flow into the intake passage and this would seem to be undesirable. One
thing I don’t understand is the effect on stability at idle. The Bosch
handbook confuses me on this point. I would have thought that increased
overlap would be bad for idling, but as for how much only experiments can
tell.
Tony Watts
From: turborat@atlcom.net
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 96 20:33:06 -0500
Subject: Re: K&N filter Phone #
From: turborat@atlcom.net
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 96 14:06:22 -0500
Subject: Re: K&N filters Phone Number
Sorry for the missing digit. Here is the correct phone number.
You can reach K&N at 1-800-858-3333, 8am-4pm M-F (Pacific) for technical
questions.Regards:
Paul
'86 XJS
From: sdickson@blue.weeg.uiowa.edu (Scott Dickson)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 20:34:24 -0600
Subject: CFCs and the fragile ozone layer
From: “Daniel S. Hayes” danh@Intelus.Com
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 12:25:43 -0500
Subject: CFCsFrom: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 00:01:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Fire ExtinguishersWhy is it that the halogene extinguishers are not allowed anymore?
Halogen is a CFC - damaging to the ozone layer.
Your right Kirby. Unfortunately, the CFC/ozone scare is just that…a
scare tactic. A movement fueled by emotion and “the sky is falling” scare
tactics. The egregious results are the dislocation of thousands of
responsible American working families, a lose of our constitutional property
rights, and a burdensome financial cost to every American family. OK, I’ll
get down now…
Daniel S. Hayes
2200 Wilson Blvd., #102-226
Arlington, VA 22201
danh@intelus.com 64 3.8 Series I E-Type Coupe
301-990-6363x263 301-330-6707 Fax
March 5, 1996
12:20 pm
The most recent research confirms the long-lasting effect that CFCs have in
the upper stratosphere destroying ozone. The question is whether the
Montreal Protocol (phasing out CFCs) considered the costs with the
benefits. There is absolutely no doubt that CFCs destroy ozone, which
provides an effective screening of incoming solar UV radiation. While the
largest hole in the layer has been over Antarctica, there is conclusive
evidence of a cyclic thinning of the ozone layer in the Northern Hemisphere
as well. Do the short-term costs of switching to alternative chemicals
outweigh the long-term costs of not acting? We may never know, but taking
quick action is simply an insurance policy.
Scott Dickson
316 Jessup Hall
University of Iowa
Iowa City, Iowa 52242
65 E-type Roadster
64 Healey 3000
From: Craig Burlingame burlingc@belnet.bellevue.k12.wa.us
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 18:50:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Fire Extinguishers
It’s a shame halogene extinguishers are no longer available here in the
States. About a year ago I had an engine fire when my S1 XJ6 backfired
and ignited fuel around the leaky carbureators (which I have since
overhauled). Fortunately I had a handy sized halogene extinguisher in my
driver’s side map pocket and was able to extinguish the fire very
quickly, just before major meltdown damage to the wiring would’ve occured.
Had the extinguisher been in the trunk, I would have lost precious
seconds and I’m sure the damage would have been much worse.
I immediately went shopping for another small size extinguisher and
learned that halogene was now forbidden and the only kind you could find
were the powder type in much larger vessels, that wouldn’t fit discretely
in the drivers cabin any more, to say nothing of the mess they would
make. I got lucky last summer and spotted a small halogene one at a
grocery store at a campground (old stock apparently). Hope I never have
to use it. BTW my original small exitinguisher was more than adequate
for the engine fire I had.
3 months later the engine bay was sparkling clean again and looked better
for the minor repainting I did after the fire. Took the XJ out to our
regional concours events and got 3 first place trophies and was just
notified it finished 2nd in national standings in Championship Class 10.
A most satisfactory ending to my Pheonix from the ashes story.
- -Craig Burlingame
'72 XJ6 Series 1
On Tue, 5 Mar 1996, Kirby Palm wrote:
Why is it that the halogene extinguishers are not allowed anymore?
Halogen is a CFC - damaging to the ozone layer.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | -- Palm's Postulate
From: sfisher@sola.com.au (Scot Fisher)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 96 00:09 CST
Subject: XK8 vs AJ6-S
I wonder how the new V8 compares to the Supercharged version of the AJ6…in
the
new XK8 body body I’d imagine the AJ6-S would really fly and make the V8 look a
little uneicessary?
Regards Scott.
Scott Fisher [sfisher@sola.com.au] PH: (08)329-28341.
_--_|\ N
SOLA OPTICAL / \ W + E
International Holdings Research Center _.–*_/ S
Adelaide, South Australia v
Joy is a Jaguar XJ6 with a flat battery, a blown oil seal and an unsympathetic
wife, 9km outside of a small remote town, 3:15am on a cold wet winters morning.
From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 19:16:45 -0800
Subject: Re: oil leaks
BLOODY HELL!!!
First of all the car in question was an XJS! This list has a real
problem with mixing makes on advice. Hylomar will not work properly.
I’ve done hundreds of cam cover gaskets, and have been able to monitor
these cars for years. On the XJS the new style gaskets that were
developed for the V12 when it was put in the XJ40 work very well as I
described originally. New copper washers are required if you don’t want
oil leaks on the sixes. For the Series 3 XJ6 I have found a thick
sealing gasket that does work, unlike the OEM type. A thick coat of
hylosil, not hylomar, is needed all the way around the half moon seal
and on the rear of the gasket only. Cam covers leaking have been a pet
peeve of mine and this is the only solution I have found that works.
Jeffrey Gram wrote:
2David Lambert
Fixing cam cover oil leaks is the easiest task on a jag. Forget dealers and
fancy gaskets. You need 2 hours spare time, some rags and cleaning solution, and
a pack of HYLOMAR (blue) liquid gasket. Cam covers off (a sharp stanley
knifeblade and a hammer can be handy in parting the cam cover from the gasket -
gentle and controlled of course.covers off - clean all mating surfaces thoroughly. Apply HYLOMAR gasket sealant
on the camcover mating face only towards the outside egde and about halfway to
the inner egde. apply a coat of about 3 mm wide and 1 -2 mm high. let the cover
predry for 20 minutes. Meantime replace rubbergrommet seal at camshaft rear (w
hich you ordered in advance). Smear with hylomar, predry mount and cover back
on and bolt down. New copper wasers under the domenuts is nice. Same on other
side. Leave thestuff to dry over 3 hours - Voila. No more oil leaks from there.Notice : No “standard” gaskets - who needs those ? - waste of money.
Regards Jeffrey Gram
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 6 Mar 96 14:43:27
Subject: Re: oil leaks
Those little rubber half moons on the V12 seem to go hard from heat etc., but
instead of installing new ones, I re-used the old, hard ones with a liberal
smear of high-temperature silicon (the expensive blue stuff from Loctite),
which doesn’t go hard. No leaks over 2 years and 60,000 km. 8+)
-
- Jan
From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 14:48:21 +1100 (EST)
Subject: Re: cam phasing
Tony Watts writes,
Following robert dingli’s discussion about cam phasing, I got out the Bosch
Automotive Handbook (which I first heard about through this list).
There is a section about cam timing under the heading “gas exchange”.
A highly recommended book.
I should predicate these comments by saying that I have no practical
experience of changing valve timing, and I am not familiar with the innards
of the XK engine. Somebody with a spare head should have a look and answer
Robert’s question about whether the valves might hit each other if the
timing is changed.
I have been assurred that minor cam phasing changes won’t cause catastrophic
valve interference.
Exhaust valve cams are usually timed to start opening 45 to 60 degrees
before bottom dead centre (BDC) on the power stroke and 50% of the exhaust
gases leave the cylinder before BDC. The exhaust valve closes 5 to 20
degrees after top dead centre (TDC) at the end of the exhaust stroke. The
inlet valve starts to open 10 to 15 degrees before TDC, so that there is an
overlap when both inlet and exhaust valves are open. The inlet valve
closes 40 to 60 degrees after BDC at the end of the induction stroke.Increased overlap is usually thought to be useful at higher revs and
therefore I don’t see why advancing the inlet cams and increasing the
overlap would be more effective at lower speeds (<4000) as Robert suggests
than at higher speeds. I doubt if closing the inlet valve earlier at low
speed would make a significant improvement unless it is already very much
delayed and is encroaching on the compression stroke too much. It is true
though that delaying the closing of the inlet valve is beneficial more for
higher speeds.
To the best of my knowledge (and remember I’m an electrical engineer
eventhough I work in an engine laboratory) the degree of valve overlap
is more critical on engines in which resonant effects in the inlet and
exhaust are important. At high revs and flow rates, the out going exhaust
will actually draw the incoming charge into the cylinder. Large gains
in volumetirc efficiency can be made if the system is tuned such that
some of the inlet charge is initially drawn straight through into the
exhaust ports only to be pushed back by a reflected pressure wave in the
exhaust.
This is not the case with the long stroke, low revving XK motor. Inertial
effects are dominant and tend to be more influenced by the inlet valve closing
(IVC) event.
The fact that the overlap increases when the inlet is advanced for a given
lift is simply a function of geometry. Even with an optimised cam design,
there are limits to how fast the valves can be opened and closed which
define a boundary for the cam profile. Ideally the valves would open in
an infitesimally short time, remain at their peak and then close quickly.
If it were possible to change the IVC event to 10 degrees earlier with the
same lift without affecting the amount of overlap, then the result would be
little different to advancing both the opening and closing events.
Most of my ‘tests’ are based on an engine modelling program which predicts
a 3-4% increase in torque up to 3500 rpm for 8 degree inlet cam advance.
The peak power is down a few hp at 4500 rpm.
If the inlet valves are opened before TDC, some of the exhaust gases will
flow into the intake passage and this would seem to be undesirable. One
thing I don’t understand is the effect on stability at idle. The Bosch
handbook confuses me on this point. I would have thought that increased
overlap would be bad for idling, but as for how much only experiments can
tell.
I can’t remember what the Bosch book has to say on this matter, but I quite
sure that increased valve overlap at idle increases the internal EGR (ie there
is more residual exhaust gas left in the cylinder) and increases reverberations
in the inlet system. Both factors tend to make idle less stable. The use
of fuel injection and equal inlet port design minimises these factors.
On another matter, Ryan and Jeff’s discussion on cam orientation has started
me thinking. Ryan, is it possible that while fiddling with the ignition, you
removed the distibutor and replaced it 180 (distr. or cam) degrees out of
phase? Would this explain why Ryan’s cams don’t appear to line up correctly
when the rotor is pointing to cyl 1 or 6 firing?
On another matter again, while I would like to get my hands on proper gaskets,
next time I remove the cam covers, I intend to use no gasket and just some
good quality sealant. ( I personally like the Toyota brand sealant which
is specified for many gasketless seals on modern Toyota twin cams.)
Robert
Robert Dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **
From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 14:52:18 +1100 (EST)
Subject: Re: CFCs and the fragile ozone layer
Scott Dickson has summed up my sentiments perfectly,
The most recent research confirms the long-lasting effect that CFCs have in
the upper stratosphere destroying ozone. The question is whether the
Montreal Protocol (phasing out CFCs) considered the costs with the
benefits. There is absolutely no doubt that CFCs destroy ozone, which
provides an effective screening of incoming solar UV radiation. While the
largest hole in the layer has been over Antarctica, there is conclusive
evidence of a cyclic thinning of the ozone layer in the Northern Hemisphere
as well. Do the short-term costs of switching to alternative chemicals
outweigh the long-term costs of not acting? We may never know, but taking
quick action is simply an insurance policy.
With the highest incidence of skin cancer in the world, Australians tend to
take these things quite seriously.
Robert
Robert Dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 6 Mar 96 14:53:49
Subject: Re: 85 XJ6 Exhaust sealing problems
Hi, Peter,
There are numerous exhaust sealing compounds around. I’ve used the Loctite one
(sorry, don’t know the cat No. off hand) with excellent results. When first
heated, the stuff foams and sets hard, filling even large joints gaps. The seal
is quite permanent.
All the best
-
- Jan
From: Ed Scripps 73200.2362@compuserve.com
Date: 05 Mar 96 22:55:05 EST
Subject: Hylosil?
David Neal writes:
[…snip…]
Jaguar hylosil must be used on all contacting surfaces ofthe seal and on the rear section of the cam cover gasket at the end of
the cam tower.
[…snip…]
What is “Jaguar hylosil”?
Thanks,
- -Ed-
From: GNKP18A@prodigy.com ( JOHN T HORNER)
Date: Mon, 04 Mar 1996 23:26:55 EST
Subject: Re: Wood in XJS and Current Jags
- – [ From: John Horner * EMC.Ver #2.10P ] –
From: Brian Craggs aa080@sfn.saskatoon.sk.ca
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 22:59:02 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Mk V
Hello there,
I have been monitoring the jag(uar)-lovers-digest for a
short while. I have not seen any postings from anything older than 1960.
Is there a register of the older models. I have a 1949(?) Mk V. I
would be most interested in sharing experiences with other Mk V owners.
I have owned my Jag since 72, and in a few years I plan to give
the car a full restoration. The car is almost complete, just needs the
correct radiator grill, the spot-lights and rear wheel covers. It hasn’t
been driven for a few years now. But I still relish the trip from
Winnipeg to Saskatoon. (500 miles at the time - now it has stretched to
800 kilometers).
I look forward to getting together with older model owners.
Brian
Brian Craggs aa080@sfn.saskatoon.sk.ca
Saskatoon
Saskatchewan Canada
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 6 Mar 96 16:29:00
Subject: Re: CFCs and the fragile ozone layer
Scott Dickson wrote among other things
Do the short-term costs of switching to alternative chemicals
outweigh the long-term costs of not acting? We may never know, but taking
quick action is simply an insurance policy.
I’m afraid we do know the cost of not acting - see my previous notes to this
thread - because serious effects are already being felt in Australia and no
doubt South America as well. It may already be too late, if the atmosphere
system has been pushed into instability. It will be at the very least 10 years
before we even know if the destruction is reversible - seeing that the most
populous countries in the world are still merrily spewing CFCs into the
environment.
By the way, anybody interested in the Britax sunroof off my XJC? I’ll swap
it for the roof section to replace it.
-
- Jan
From: “Ryan Border” border@best.com
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 21:59:57 +0000
Subject: Re: Cam alignment- URGENT WARNING
OK- I think we can finally put this issue to rest.
In a word… doh!
I opened up the oil filler on my engine, and took a peek inside. Put
the motor at TDC, with the exhaust cam notch “up”. The #6 lobe was
pointing up and out. A check of the distributor showed that I was
firing #6- in summary exactly as Jeffery said it should be.
Don’t know how I got things so confused… too much camshaft on the
brain I suppose. Maybe what I was remembering was looking at the
head on the bench, with the cams swapped… but looking at #1 or
something. In any event, I’m pretty sure it’s safe to re-start my
motor- and if nothing else this has been a good exercise for me and
Jeffrey :-).
Now, if I can just get my brakes sorted out-
Ryan.
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 22:11:34 -0800
Subject: Re: Valve guide stake down kits
Jim-
If you have a smog pump, I would!
Hunt
At 03:23 PM 3/4/96 -0600, Jim Isbell wrote:
I keep hearing about these things and that the series 3 XJ6 is the one most
likely to need it.I have a 1982 XJ^ with 115,000 miles on it. It doesnt make any ticking
noises. Should I worry?? Should I pull the head and fix what dont seem to
be broke?Jim===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 22:11:05 -0800
Subject: Re: 85 XJ6 Exhaust sealing problems
At 10:49 AM 3/4/96 EDT, Peter W. Karpien wrote:
This past November I posted a couple questions to the list…
Exhaust side - #5 valve badly burnt.
Intake side - #4 valve seat loose. Hmmm, glad I found that.
You want to see a groan man cry, just have a valve seat
drop at 80mph!
This happened to me - ouch!
But, the big But, I can’t get the catalytic converter to
seal up to the exhaust manifold downpipe. I received new
seals with the head seal kit and I am using these. The
front pipe seals, but I can’t seem to get the back one to.
I have dismantled it once and tried again, but no luck
and the bolts aren’t exactly that easy to get to even though
they look it. Any suggestions.
I haven’t had this problem on my XJ-6, but perhaps the studs need replacing?
If threads are damaged such that the bolts are prematurely “bottoming”, this
could cause your problem.
Good luck!
Hunt
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 22:11:58 -0800
Subject: Re: Front Brake Caliper Shims - XJ
Kirby-
How wide is the channel that straddles the rotor? Perhaps the centering has
to do with maintaining proper clearance of the caliper to the rotor,
including warp, runout, etc?
Hunt
At 09:44 PM 3/4/96 -0500, Kirby Palm wrote:
Alright, after a review of the repair manual, I think I understand the
reason for the shims between the steering arm and the front brake caliper.When replacing the disk, you’re supposed to measure the distance between the
sides of the new disk and the caliper on each side. If the distances are
not equal, then you’re supposed to fit a pair of shims between the upright
and the caliper to move the caliper over a little.Of course, the problem here is that the steering arm is on the OTHER side of
the caliper. If the caliper moves over by the thickness of the added shims,
then the steering arm mounting will be distorted. Solution: Provide a
little extra space under the steering arm and fill it with shims. Then,
when adding shims under the caliper, the same thickness of shims can be
removed from under the steering arm to keep it in the same place and not
distort it.Of course, this brings up an inevitable question. The most you could move
the caliper while keeping the steering arm unaltered would be the thickness
of the shims, which is something like .020". Compared to the range of pad
wear, this has to be considered insignificant. Why would it be of any
importance whatsoever to be able to center the disk in the caliper within
.020"?-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | -- Palm's Postulate
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 22:11:49 -0800
Subject: Re:E-type Heater Pipes
Mark-
My wife (the shrink) would say that you are supressing unpleasant memories
and enhancing the positive ones! Perhaps I refuse to see the easy way?
At 04:45 PM 3/4/96 -0500, mark (m.d.) roberts wrote:
Hunt:
When I put the new stainless steel pipe into my car
this past summer…when it was actually warm out…
I “applied” my pop rivet gun/thingy to the bench grinder.
Good point on the rivet gun - I would be more than happy to ruin a few
myself, but both my grinder and belt sander were (are) at my office (and I
didn’t think of it). It’s funny - usually modifying (read that ruining) a
tool is one of the first things that I think of in a situation like this!
As for the windscreen washer nozzles, I don’t recall
them to be a problem, other than trying to figure
out which of the holes the tube came through the
firewall. My pictures of the car as it came apart
Re the wiper jets: Are you sure you had the wiper mechanism in? I could get
the driver side OK (but my son doing it was much more fulfilling!), but even
he had trouble fitting his arm in to get the nut back on the passenger side
jet! We had success this evening, though. It was really neat to see my
eleven year old exhibit such perseverance!
Oh, and congrats to you Nick on the new wee one.
Yes!
Best -
Hunt
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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 7 March 1996 Volume 01 : Number 409
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 22:12:02 -0800
Subject: Re: grabbing brakes
This makes sense - particularly if the hose lining has blistered, so that
back-pressure forces a flap across the bore.
Hunt
At 08:37 AM 3/5/96 -0500, R. Eugene Johnston (smp) wrote:
Ryan, I had the same problem sometime ago with my s1 xj6. It turned
out that my problem was a collapsed break line. This is a rubber line
just behind the right rear wheel that feeds both rear brakes. It is
a very small bore line and had collapsed so that the brake fluid
could not return, only flow one way, causing the rear brakes to grab
and not release. I discovered it the same way you are. The rear
brakes were smoking. check it out. Gene Johnston '72 XJ6, 53 MK7
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 22:11:55 -0800
Subject: Re: Active" air-flow-meter
Nikolai-
The newer jags, (XJ40 and up) use a non-restrictive airflow meter with no
moving parts. There are two thermistors (or similiar device), one is in a
bleed-air channel, the other in a dead-air chamber. They both have current
fed to them, and their resistance is temperature dependant. The airflow is
derived from the temperature differential, which produces a control voltage.
Coming up with an adaptor to produce the proper electrical interface to the
older ECU might be an interesting exercise!
Hunt
At 07:28 PM 3/4/96 -0600, Nikolai Chitaev wrote:
Hello there,
Just my thoughts regarding “improving” the Jag, as usuall.
What, loute, do you think about “active” air-flow-meter, where buterfly of
current AFM will be replaced with “propeller” type buterfly (which is not a
buterfly enymore, but true passive propeller). The rotation friquency rpm
of such a propeller will feded to ECU as a function of consumed air. Axis
of this propeller should be aligned in paralell with air flow which in turn
should provide “turbo-effect”: more air through the same passage.
Basicaly, you through away current AFM and instal instead such a small
propeller with bicycle`s speedometer as a means of meassuring the amout of
air.Nikolai A. Chitaev, PhD. <<87`XJ6 4.2L, EFI, BRG>> {nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu} {http://128.252.119.253} St.Louis, Missouri, USA
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 01:20:20 -0500
Subject: Re: New home for the list
Messages to the old address will be forwarded to the new
address, transparently to the list-users.
This is a BAD idea, as everyone who has ever gone through this process
knows. People never update their addresses, and continue to use this method
indefinitely; many never even get the word that the address has changed.
The first clue is when the forwarding eventually goes away, and those folks
are left high and dry without ANY idea what happened.
The old site should definitely NOT forward the mail, but rather return an
error message informing the sender of the new address. This encourages all
to update their addresses promptly.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 01:20:38 -0500
Subject: Re: oil leaks
#2 looks like a real winner.
would you like to do some experementing. The posibility of putting an angle on
the outer surface to add to the outward force on the rubber half moon could
be of
some help.
Angles unnecessary, since the theory going on is that rubber, when
compressed one way, will expand another.
Seems this fix might be VERY easy. If one simply buys a rubber freeze plug
of the right size, grind the washers into a D shape, throw the rubber part
in the trash, and put the assembly back together with the stock half-moon
seal with a hole drilled in it.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 01:20:14 -0500
Subject: Re: List Administration
The real beaty of the majordomo list-server is that it can be
administrated from anywhere. Say if I set it up now, I could
pass the admin-function on to someone else at a later date, all
totally transparently to the list-members.
Whoa, now. Are we discussing moving it because psy.uwa.edu.au will no
longer keep it for us, or because Doug is outta here? If psy.uwa.edu.au
will remain serving, why don’t we leave it there and just let someone else
administer it besides Doug?
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 10:42:47 +0100
Subject: Re: List Administration
At 01:20 06/03/96 -0500, you wrote:
The real beaty of the majordomo list-server is that it can be
administrated from anywhere. Say if I set it up now, I could
pass the admin-function on to someone else at a later date, all
totally transparently to the list-members.Whoa, now. Are we discussing moving it because psy.uwa.edu.au will no
longer keep it for us, or because Doug is outta here? If psy.uwa.edu.au
will remain serving, why don’t we leave it there and just let someone else
administer it besides Doug?
For the benefit of all I have included the message I received
from Doug. To me Dougs message is politely hinting that it is
time the list moves on. It should be fairly obvious that Doug
and psy.uwa.oz.au doesn’t have any interest in supporting our
list with their time and resources.
[message from doug@psy.uwa.oz.au]
| Hi Nick,
|
| I will be taking a couple of months off soon and I think
| the Department will have a heart attach when someone has to look
| after the list while I am away as there is an awful lot of
| bounced mail etc now that the list is so big
| (317 on jag-lovers and 317 on the digest). So I was
| wondering if you could see if there is anyone else out there
| who could take over the list? Since the list is so big it
| would need someone with decent connectivity and a solid
| network connection to the internet as it gets pretty busy.
|
| Anyway if you could sound people out and get back to me I would
| appreciate it Nick,
| regards doug
Now, if anyone is under the impression that I am looking for
world domination in online Jaguar matters, this is not so. I
feel that the list should be moved to somewhere where it can
stay and be cared for, it is no big deal for me to be the one
to look after it, I just feel it would be a nice, new experience.
What I can offer now is probably as good as it gets, a stable
provider, a cheap list-server and no volume fees.
Nick
Nick Johannesen @ Work http://www.sn.no/home/nick/
Phone: +47-2207 3981 Fax: +47-2207 3444
From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@compuserve.com
Date: 06 Mar 96 06:37:46 EST
Subject: Mk V
To Brian Craggs re Mk Vs: welcome, from an XK owner. There are actually quite
a few of us old model owners hanging about, but we take up very little JL space
usually … but don’t let that deter you! I’ll be surprised if you don’t hear
from Rob Reilly, who is working on a Mk V restoration book. And we have a small
group of 7 XK enthusiasts who swap messages re originality usually, from time to
time (off the list). By the way, if there are any more XK enthusiasts who want
to join our little group, let me know. The other recommendation I would make is
that you go through the visitors’ book on Nick’s WWW site, and extract the email
addresses of any Mk V owners. You might get only a couple, but they could be
worth gold! Regards, John Elmgreen
From: David Wood David.Wood@durham.ac.uk
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 12:52:47 PST
Subject: Re: Bumped Jag
On Sat, 2 Mar 1996 13:33:49 -0500 Noah Dater wrote:
Last night the campus police drove into my parked car while tryingto aprehend some student who was bringing beer into the dorms. They
“slipped” on the sand and slid into my car (what about antilock brakes).
They hit it hard enough to push about 2 ft over a curb. Apart from the
bumper being scratched I was wondering if there could be any other damage
inflicted that I can’t notice. The car was in park at the time. If anyone
has some ideas for areas that I should check out it would be helpful. The
car is a 1983 XJ6 auto.
Noah Dater
Noah,
You didn’t say whether this was a front or rear, head-on or angled collision. S3
bumpers are supposed to be able to absorb low impacts, so if the bumper is
merely scratched (as opposed to deformed) it shouldn’t be a cause for worry.
However, you might check out the operation of adjacent lighting (decoupled wires,
shock damage to bulbs) and also the bumper mounting points - these could be
affected if there was corrosion already present in the mounting area.
Cheers,
Dave Wood.
From: sdickson@blue.weeg.uiowa.edu (Scott Dickson)
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 07:42:04 -0600
Subject: CFCs and the ozone layer
From: “Daniel S. Hayes” danh@Intelus.Com
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 12:25:43 -0500
Subject: CFCsFrom: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 1996 00:01:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Fire ExtinguishersWhy is it that the halogene extinguishers are not allowed anymore?
Halogen is a CFC - damaging to the ozone layer.
Your right Kirby. Unfortunately, the CFC/ozone scare is just that…a
scare tactic. A movement fueled by emotion and “the sky is falling” scare
tactics. The egregious results are the dislocation of thousands of
responsible American working families, a lose of our constitutional property
rights, and a burdensome financial cost to every American family. OK, I’ll
get down now…
Daniel S. Hayes
2200 Wilson Blvd., #102-226
Arlington, VA 22201
danh@intelus.com 64 3.8 Series I E-Type Coupe
301-990-6363x263 301-330-6707 Fax
March 5, 1996
12:20 pm
The most recent research confirms the long-lasting effect that CFCs have in
the upper stratosphere destroying ozone. The question is whether the
Montreal Protocol (phasing out CFCs) considered the costs with the
benefits. There is absolutely no doubt that CFCs destroy ozone, which
provides an effective screening of incoming solar UV radiation. While the
largest hole in the layer has been over Antarctica, there is conclusive
evidence of a cyclic thinning of the ozone layer in the Northern Hemisphere
as well. Do the short-term costs of switching to alternative chemicals
outweigh the long-term costs of not acting? We may never know, but taking
quick action is simply an insurance policy.
Scott Dickson
316 Jessup Hall
University of Iowa
Iowa City, Iowa 52242
65 E-type Roadster
64 Healey 3000
From: Dphdcpe@aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 08:51:31 -0500
Subject: In Orlando
I’ll be in Orlando on a drunkin golfing vacation from the 8th to the 16th.
Anyone on the list in the area. I’ll be staying at the Quality Inn Suites
next to Old Town in Kissimee.
Anyone down there, let me know and maybe we can hook up over a bourbon and
water at the outside bar and complain about repairs in person!
Terry Wagner
60 XK150 Drophead
61 XKE OTS
From: “Charles Rahm” crahm@saturn.gan.net
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 08:57:21 -0500
Subject: Straight vs. S Shaped Exhaust Tips
Dear Jag Lovers,
Peter Pesch recently wrote an interesting article about"what is a
Jaguar." Regarding S shaped exhaust tips: Photos of early XJ6s show
straight exhaust tips. Customers complained of exhaust fumes in the
trunk as well as in the car. Before 1971, XJ6s began shipping with
the S shaped exhaust tips. Therefore, Sir William Lyons original
artwork/design of the XJ6 was with straight exhaust tips!
On my 1971 XJ6, I decided for aesthetic appeal, I would try straight
exhaust tips for a while. My boot seal is new and the lid fits snug.
When I pull luggage out of the boot after a journey, the clothes
smell like exhaust. (Did not happen with the S shaped exhaust). I
never smell exhaust inside the passenger compartment of the car.
The series I XJ looks “tough” from behind with the straight exhaust
tips combined with the thin chrome bumpers and wide stance.
In true Hyde Park fashion I’ll get off my soapbox.
Sincerely,
Charles Rahm
Series I, II, III XJ6s
Charles Rahm
…
“I’m a win man myself. I don’t go for place or show.”
- Paul “Bear” Bryant
Rahm Securities Corporation 214/783-9498
crahm@gan.net 214/783-8860 Fax
gan.net 800/591-8851
…
From: GNKP18A@prodigy.com ( JOHN T HORNER)
Date: Tue, 05 Mar 1996 08:52:23 EST
Subject: Re: XK8 Launched at Geneva Motor Show
- – [ From: John Horner * EMC.Ver #2.10P ] –
What did they do to the poor XK8’s nose?
It looks like the eyes have been pinched severely
towards the center of the grill, which treatment
is most surely not Jaguar-like.
The XK8 looks like an iteration of the
Probe/Talon/RX7 school of design, and most
certainly isn’t going to be the best-first-date
car-of-the-century like the E-type was (is?).
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 10:09:31 -0500
Subject: re: XK8 Launched at Geneva Motor Show
IMHO, the XK8 looks really good from the front and sides. However, the rear
is a big miss as far as I’m concerned. Looks like a Ford design.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 10:09:27 -0500
Subject: XJ-S Help Booklet
For those who like to keep up, I have just posted a new release of
“Experience in a Book: Help for the Jaguar XJ-S Owner” to my Jaguar WWW
page. The booklet has changed considerably over the past couple months,
somehow growing almost ten percent.
My home page is at:
http://gcn.scri.fsu.edu/~palmk
One further note: I am gradually trying to work up the nerve to change this
booklet’s format. I intend to do away with the WordPerfect 5.1 format and
make the booklet into a collection of ASCII text files and TIF image files.
This will actually be a significant project, and will probably totally
change the look and feel of the document. There is no convenient way to
maintain a table of contents, cross-references, or even page numbers in an
ASCII text file, so all of these little conveniences will go away. I will
have to be happy with merely stating that more information can be found in
such-and-such section, and leave the reader to find it. References to
illustrations will become references to TIF files.
For those of you who cannot view WP51 files, this will be a great plus,
since everyone should be able to read ASCII text and TIF images. For those
who CAN view WP51 files, however, you might wanna get one of these current
versions while you can, since IMHO it will likely be the more user-friendly
document.
And, no, I will NOT be maintaining both versions.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Neil Richardson NEILRICH@polisci.wisc.edu
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 96 09:07 CDT
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V1 #406
Can’t stop myself: Daniel Hayes writes that CFCs and the ozone issue are really
a “scare tactic” and, indeed, one that has displaced “thousands” of U.S.
workers. Alas, the mounting data (i.e., systematic evidence collected and
analyzed by experts) say otherwise about CFCs. And Mr. Hayes similarly makes no
reference to data on the alleged thousands of displaced workers in this country
alone. Who might they be? (Surely not those who are in the same plants and now
making alternative coolants.) I, for one, have never seen employment data that
substantiate the generalizations that Mr. Hayes proffers.
Neil Richardson
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
From: “Daniel S. Hayes” danh@Intelus.Com
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 1996 10:33:23 -0500
Subject: Sender: owner-jag-lovers
I have read several post to the list concerning cam timing. Since I will
eventually have to perform this task, I would like to know what is the best
book on the subject.
Regards,
Daniel S. Hayes
2200 Wilson Blvd., #102-226
Arlington, VA 22201
danh@intelus.com 64 3.8 Series I E-Type Coupe
301-990-6363x263 301-330-6707 Fax
March 6, 1996
10:33 am
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 10:27:17 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re:XK8 Launched at Geneva Motor Show
Whether you like the styling or not is a matter of taste. I can
certainly see design elements of E-type, XJS, and XJ-220 in it. But I’m
surprised that anyone would introduce a sport coupe without a sun
roof these days. Maybe it’s an option that wasn’t put into the photo
car?Chip
Maybe, but the damn things should never, repeat NEVER, be standard. Some
of us tall guys really prefer the headroom to the noise and water leaks.
They certainly should only be options on the XJ6/12.
2c
Larry Lee
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 11:30:31 -0500
Subject: Re: List Administration
What I can offer now is probably as good as it gets, a stable
provider, a cheap list-server and no volume fees.
On the other hand, the server the brit-cars list is on (autox.team.net)
seems to contain a LOT of automobile-related lists. Maybe they wouldn’t
mind one more.
Also, cs.utexas.edu seems to have a lot of auto lists.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 11:30:37 -0500
Subject: Re: oil leaks
An oring would definitely work better, how about two.
Offhand, I wouldn’t go that route. You’re more familiar with the assembly
than I, would know better how much space is available. The downward force
from compression of the cam cover gasket should be taken by metal-to-metal
contact BESIDE the O-ring groove, since an O-ring obviously cannot handle
much compression. One ring should do it, if it doesn’t, two is poor insurance.
The real problem will be the joint between the cut-off O-ring and the cam
cover gasket. Careful cutting required, sealant helpful.
I had the locator lips in mind, would worry about the part without it.
However, I’ve even come up with another idea: leave the plug out entirely,
instead providing a trapped broad-headed bolt sticking out (perhaps taken
from a rubber freeze plug). After the cam cover is secured, a D-shaped
plate is attached to the rear using a nut on this bolt. With a conventional
flat gasket, this cover can seal the opening, provided the rear end surfaces
are fairly flat and line up OK.
Y’know, if this was a Jap car, it’d have a special D-shaped O-ring!
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: BSherw@aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 11:33:08 -0500
Subject: Trip Computer- space for CD?
Lawrence Karpman asked about trip cptr problem, and space behind<
Sorry I can’t advise you on your buggered trip computer, but I can answer
your question about space behind it: there is not enough room to install a
CD-player. Only 2 or 3 inches before you find interference with the
heater/a.c. box (It’s a monster). I recently had all this area apart on my
'85 XJ6 (same as yours) to replace a heater core. And you can’t replace the
radio with CD player, 'cause the shifter probably wouldn’t allow the CD’s in
and out.
Now, if you installed a Corvette heater box, you’d probably have room for the
CD player! JUST KIDDING!
Brian Sherwood
Brazil, IN
From: Greg Meboe meboe@wsunix.wsu.edu
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 09:05:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: 2 LBC’s destroyed in explosion…
Darn it,
Yesterday was sure a lousy one. As some of you may know, Dianne,
myself, and our 8 month old daughter Emily have been staying at my in-laws’
house South of Seattle, and yesterday it exploded.
Luckily we weren’t home at the time, and neither were my in-laws. The
cable television company was drilling a pipe under the driveway and punctured
a gas line, filling the house with natural gas. Ignition came a few moments
later, and rocked residences several blocks away.
Unfortunately (relatively), the center of the explosion was the
garage, sending a fully restored TR-250 and a nearly-finished 79 Midget to
LBC heaven. A picture of the 250 (after restoration) can be seen on my web
page. (if it’s up and running)
We arrived on the scene an hour after the explosion, and what was
left of the house continued to burn for another few hours.
I’m feeling like a pretty lucky fellow, knowing that normally Dianne,
Emily and I would have been sitting inside the house at that time. All of
our friends and family have been very supportive, and the fire department
and Red Cross did an exemplary job.
On a personal note, I think I'll be taking a job with Boeing, I'll start in
a few weeks.
Greg
Greg Meboe meboe@lestat.scs.wsu.edu
Web site>> http://www.scs.wsu.edu/~meboe
Dept. of Mechanical and Materials Engineering
Washington State University, Pullman, Wa.
'85 XJ-12 H.E. (daily) '67 Spit-6 '74 TR-6
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 1996 18:00:51 -0100
Subject: Re: List Administration
[ Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu ]
| >What I can offer now is probably as good as it gets, a stable
| >provider, a cheap list-server and no volume fees.
|
| On the other hand, the server the brit-cars list is on (autox.team.net)
| seems to contain a LOT of automobile-related lists. Maybe they wouldn’t
| mind one more.
|
| Also, cs.utexas.edu seems to have a lot of auto lists.
Is there a perceived advantage to throwing a high-volume list
together with a bunch of other high-volume lists?
imagines the little auto-related mails giving each other rides
Nick
<<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>>
<<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>>
The Jaguar enthusiasts WWW-site <<<
From: ndater@gnu.uvm.edu (Noah Dater)
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 12:14:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Trip Computer- space for CD?
I do have an indash CD player in my 83 XJ6 and there is just enough
room to put a CD when it is in park, and plenty of room in any other gear.
Noah Dater
83 XJ6
And you can’t replace the
radio with CD player, 'cause the shifter probably wouldn’t allow the CD’s in
and out.
Now, if you installed a Corvette heater box, you’d probably have room for the
CD player! JUST KIDDING!
Brian Sherwood
Brazil, IN
“When I die, I’d like to go peacefully.
In my sleep.
Like my grandfather.
Not screaming,
like the passengers in his car…”
– anonymous–
-----------------------------------------------------------
Noah Dater ----ndater@moose.uvm.edu----
Burlington, VT
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 11:26:11 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Lumps & S-Shaped Exhaust Tips
On Tue, 5 Mar 1996, Peter Pesch wrote:
clear why the XK 120 was once on display at the Museum of Modern Art
in New York (the hood, or bonnet, was closed, so that the engine was
not visible).
So was a Studebaker Avanti.
Therefore, although I personally have no qualms about having installed a 5.7 litre Chevvy V8
into my 1976 XJ L, it would NEVER occur to me to replace the s-shaped exhaust tips with
straight ones. To alter the APPEARANCE of a Jaguar is a violation of the true essence of one of
Sir William’s creations, something only a barbarian, Philistine, or vandal would undertake.Peter Pesch
1959 XK 150 fhc
1967 XKE 2+2
1976 XJV8L
1985 XJ S
Peter, IMHO you’re half right. While it is true today that virtually every
marque includes components–even major ones–from a long list of
vendors, including purported competitors, there is still something
important (at least to me, and I suspect other engineering types) about
keeping the original package intact. I don’t intend to put a Chevy
engine in my Mercury either. A Jaguar is more than mere looks. I have
waxed non-eloquently about the magic of the “Lyon Line” on this list
before, but the mystique is a dynamic one. The engine and drive
train are, IMHO, too big part of that to sacrifice.
Now about the part where I agree that you are correct. The curved tail
pipes are also part of the unique package that is a Jaguar XJ. Unless
you own one of the early cars, keep that svelt bend. When I see one
with straight pipes (yes, I’ve seen a couple), I have to wonder what
other abuse may have been perpetrated upon the unfortunate cat.
Call the SPCMA!!!
Larry Lee
End of jag-lovers-digest V1 #409
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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 7 March 1996 Volume 01 : Number 410
From: skurtzma@Verity.COM (Stephen Kurtzman)
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 09:46:39 -0800
Subject: re: XK8 Launched at Geneva Motor Show
IMHO, the XK8 looks really good from the front and sides. However, the rear
is a big miss as far as I’m concerned. Looks like a Ford design.
Kirby, I couldn’t agree more about the rear of the car. It looks too much
like a new Taurus from the rear. At least the rear lights look a little
like the rear lights on a new-series XJ. The front is nice except that the
headlights look like they were stolen from a Japanese car. The side is
nice, but unremarkable.
If I go by first impressions from the pictures on the web page and the
brief video on the news last night, then I won’t be trading in the XJ6.
From: Lauren E. Pratt pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 96 08:58:36 PST
Subject: To: jag-lovers@psy.uwa.edu.au
Hello Everyone
I recently acquired a 65 E FHC basket case.
(Baskets and baskets of parts.)
The camshafts are new Iskinderian re grinds,
an XM2 intake cam and a XM3 exhaust cam. As
these are the only cams I have, I thought I
would use them and see how they worked. Does
anyone have experience with these cams?
Iskinderian recommends 0.014" exhaust and
0.012" intake valve clearance, but admits
this can be reduced. I am concerned the engine
would sound like a bucket of marbles with
valve lash this wide.
Also, as the engine accumulates time and
mileage, dose the valve lash increase due
to lifter wear, or decrease due to valve and
seat wear?
As an added note, the flywheel is a light
weight alloy with a steel insert. A heavy
duty damper is available, but I an not
inclined to use it because it requires a lot
of rework to make the belt and pulleys line up.
Any information and help anyone can give
would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Lauren -------------------------------------
From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 13:37:36 -0500
Subject: Re: [2] oil leaks
If this was a Japanese car they would have two different castings!
You wouldn't need a little half-moon plug, or a way to stop it from
leaking..
MikeC <m.cogswell@zds.com>
'74 E-Type OTS
'88 XJ-S (H&E Convertible)
'88 Honda Accord (320,000 miles and climbing)
'91 Chevy Suburban (when you really need the room)
___________________________ Reply Separator __________________________
From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 11:30:37 -0500
Subject: Re: oil leaks
<snip>
Y'know, if this was a Jap car, it'd have a special D-shaped O-ring!
-- Kirbert
From: Elgsweep@aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 14:15:03 -0500
Subject: Re: XK8 Launched at Geneva Motor Show
In a message dated 96-03-05 19:46:09 EST, Roger Peng wrote:
It also looks very similar to the new Aston DB7 (I wonder if these two
cars share the same body shell). I guess I was expecting something
dramatically
different…It will probably sell well though. After all, there’s a big crowd out there
that thinks the styling of the Lexus coupe is exciting.
I agree 100% My first reaction was “Aston Martin”. Kind of too bad since the
classic Jaguar styles never followed the crowd!
Dennis Murphy
Geneva, IL
1952 XK120
1990 XJS
From: “Peter W. Karpien” PETE@gleeble.com
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 14:21:56 EDT
Subject: Address Change
Fellow Jag Lovers,
I will be leaving my current job this Friday the 8th,
making my internet address pete@gleeble.com invalid.
Please send all mail to my compuserve account.
or
100306,3514
if you have compuserve.
Thanks,
Peter
P.S.
I went to an Auto-show this weekend and had a chance to sit
in a 1996 XJ6. I wasn’t impressed. It was a gold
color, which is a bad start.
I think the thing that
really turned me off though, was the interior.
Awful steering wheel.
Bad gauge cluster. What happened to the beautiful completely
round gauges of the Series III?
Also I didn’t like the gear shift or the center console.
It was too high up. I felt cramped.
I did like the looks of the engine compartment. Lots of space.
Looks like a fun engine to work on.
What do others think?
Any owners out there?
I also browsed through the XK8 pictures on the web.
I thought the XK8 looked pretty good. Not spectacular though.
I think I would need to see it in person
to make final judgement.
Peter W. Karpien Project Manager
pete@gleeble.com Dynamic Systems Inc.
518-283-5350 P.O. Box 1234
518-283-3160 Fax Poestenkill, New York 12196
USA
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 15:03:01 -0500
Subject: Re: List Administration
Is there a perceived advantage to throwing a high-volume list
together with a bunch of other high-volume lists?
Yes, actually. When you send the right message to a majordomo, it will send
you a list of all the lists on that server. If the server specializes in
cars, this is a useful feature – car lovers can get the list of lists, and
then subscribe to all the car lists that interest them. Yet another way to
find out that the jag-lovers group exists, which I still feel is somewhat of
a problem.
By the way: would it be possible to put a form on a WWW site where the
browser can subscribe to jag-lovers? It is at least possible to put a
mailto: link to the majordomo, with instructions on what needs to be typed.
But it would be better to give them an even simpler signup option.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: mkenrick@golder.com (Michael Kenrick)
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 10:33:05 -0800
Subject: Re: XJ-S Help Booklet
This is a Mime message, which your current mail reader
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From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Subject: XJ-S Help Booklet
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For those of you who cannot view WP51 files, this will be a great plus,
since everyone should be able to read ASCII text and TIF images. For those
who CAN view WP51 files, however, you might wanna get one of these current
versions while you can, since IMHO it will likely be the more user-friendly
document.
Good to see you are moving away from Word Imperfect. Have you
considered converting it to HTML? This would be the most
user-friendly, forward-looking, and up-to-date format. It would
become a live on-line document. Think of the benefits!
I have found that creating long book-like documents is pretty easy if
you use Microsoft Word and an add-in HTML formater, like HTML Author.
If you like, I'll even volunteer my services to help you do this. It
would be 1,000 times better than ASCII and TIF :-)
Michael Kenrick
1986 XJ-S V12
- –IMA.Boundary.706731628–
From: “Scott W. Phillips - Gillette Foundation” <SWPHIL@GCH_ADMIN.GCHOSPITAL.COM>
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 1996 14:10:41 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Honeymoon’s Over
So…there I am, proud new Jag owner…bragging (first bad
omen) at the car wash 'cause the fellows there all think my '88 is
new, when I get in and try to start her up…and nothing.
Unlike so many of you, I being mechanically challenged (nothing
beyond basic auto repair and care class back in 1973), can only sit
there wondering what’s up, with the hood up and all the other cars
zipping by…
I am told that “the contact points in the front corners of the engine
compartment” were wet. After being blown off with air hoses and a
dose of WD-40, she started fine. Relief as I finally motor
away…
Only to begin feeling water dripping down onto my left foot from
somewhere under the dashboard near the hood release handle…
So my helpful friends…any suggestions as to the importance of my
problems…and if they are unique – common place – specific to the
XJ40 – etc.
Thanks,
Scott
Oh and by the way, as a new comer, I can’t tell you how much this
list does for me…I did find Paul’s in Florida and will be seeing
him on my forthcoming trip. Any other Jag-lovers in the Boca Raton
area that would like to meet for a brew or two?
From: “J.W. Beckmeyer” 73131.3076@compuserve.com
Date: 06 Mar 96 16:34:17 EST
Subject: Interior Kit Sale
Hello all!
If you get Hemmings and you’re going to be doing the interior of your Jag soon,
be sure to check out page 2295 in the March issue. Hellava sale going on at
Bartlett.
Can’t vouch for the merchandise but the prices sure are tempting…
Best regards,
Jim Beckmeyer Union CIty, MI USA
e-mail: 73131.3076@compuserve.com
90 Jaguar XJ-40-Sovereign
60 Jaguar MK II
From: “J.W. Beckmeyer” 73131.3076@compuserve.com
Date: 06 Mar 96 16:48:11 EST
Subject: List Admin.
It was written:
Is there a perceived advantage to throwing a high-volume list
together with a bunch of other high-volume lists?
Does anyone have an idea of what team.net would charge to manage our list?
Best regards,
Jim Beckmeyer Union CIty, MI USA
e-mail: 73131.3076@compuserve.com
90 Jaguar XJ-40-Sovereign
60 Jaguar MK II
From: Elgsweep@aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 16:59:27 -0500
Subject: [none]
ated 96-03-06 15:19:02 EST, Scott wrote:
So…there I am, proud new Jag owner…bragging (first bad
omen) at the car wash 'cause the fellows there all think my '88 is
new, when I get in and try to start her up…and nothing.
Best advice - don’t use a car wash! It’s really bad for your paint. My '90
XJS has NEVER seen a car wash! They are just little hair line scratches,
but they add up!
That said, I will admit my '85 did go through car washes, which may have
contributed to the early demise of the paint but it was awful to begin
with. In a car wash, or a heavy downpour, water dripping on my right foot was
not uncommon. It leaked around the windshield seal as near as I could tell.
Never had an underhood problem though.
I have had other cars that I had to leave running in a car wash just to
prevent wet electrics.
Enjoy your new Jaguar, it’s those liitle eccenticities that make them what
they are - special!
Dennis Murphy
Geneva, IL
1952 XK120
1990 XJS
From: Ryan Border rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 15:06:06 -0800
Subject: The Cams again…
Hello Jeffrey-
Well, I’ve had some time to think about yesterdays confusion, and maybe
figured out what was going on.
In my initial post, I wrote:
So, we put the motor at TDC and removed the
oil filler from the cam cover. Peered inside with a flashlight and took
a look at the #6 exhaust valve… it was on the verge of being opened; and
yet the cam timing notch appeared to be in the correct position.
Clearly I had this wrong. I suspect what I really saw was the motor at
TDC (shown by the timing mark on the harmonic damper), with the exhaust
valve about to open (#6 lobe out and down). The cam notch would have
been straight down. From here, the rest of my post is right… the
exhaust valve should never be opening at TDC, and therefore this had
to be the intake cam; leading me to the (correct) conclusion that
the cams were swapped.
With the cam covers off, I again observed the opening exhaust valve
at TDC- so either I was looking at #1, or the cams were 180 out, with
the notches down. I remember this so clearly because it became my sanity
check: “exhaust valves never open at TDC, intake valve should be opening”.
I was thinking about the assembly of everything too. You put the motor
at TDC, align the cams with the tool and then bolt it in. You can only
reach 2 bolts, and then you have to turn the motor over once to reach
the other 2 bolts on each cam wheel. Again the motor is at TDC, but
the #6 cam lobes are now down-and-in (as I thought I remembered them with
the notches up) rather than up-and-out, as they correctly sit when they’ve
been set with the tool. Once the final bolts have been put on the cam
there’s really no reason to turn it over again… and it’s here (notches
down) that I set my ignition at- and from here it does go to #1. This
is the position where the rest of my assembly (manifolds, ignition, cam
covers, etc.) took place, and I probably spent too much time looking at
it this way and somehow got the idea in my mind that this position was
a “notches-up” orientation.
Oh well, I wanted to say thanks again for all the time you spent thinking
about my “problems”, and if nothing else you’ve got me %100 convinced
that things are OK with my setup now. And, I’ll certainly never forget
your “up-and-out” axiom for making sure I’ve got the cams on the right
sides
Cheers-
Ryan.
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 17:59:30 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Straight vs. S Shaped Exhaust Tips
On Wed, 6 Mar 1996, Charles Rahm wrote:
When I pull luggage out of the boot after a journey, the clothes
smell like exhaust. (Did not happen with the S shaped exhaust). I
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Sorry, not my idea of a luxury motorcar!
never smell exhaust inside the passenger compartment of the car.
The series I XJ looks “tough” from behind with the straight exhaust
tips combined with the thin chrome bumpers and wide stance.In true Hyde Park fashion I’ll get off my soapbox.
Sincerely,
Charles Rahm
Series I, II, III XJ6s
Charles Rahm
…
“I’m a win man myself. I don’t go for place or show.”
- Paul “Bear” Bryant
Here in Auburn, we know better than to listen to ANYONE who quotes Bear.
War Eagle!!!
Larry Lee
From: John Chancey jchancey@brutus.bright.net
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 96 17:30:38 PST
Subject: Columbus Auto Show
Does one of the members of this list happen to own the '74 E-Type “Black Widow” I saw
at the Columbus (Ohio) Convention Center this week? Absolutely gorgeous! What would
be the value of something like this? (it was roped off, but the sign didn’t give much
info other than it has 34K miles, and was one of the last 50 E-types built)
John Chancey 1987 XJS
http://www.bright.net/~jchancey
“I try my best to be what I am, but everybody wants me to be just like them”
(“Maggie’s Farm” - Bob Dylan )
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 06 Mar 96 18:55:32 EST
Subject: Re: oil leaks
Michael Neal,
No need to swear. Did I mix cars (cam covers) up ? Does it matter ? Or did I
offend your position as a professional tech mech ?. People who don’t like to get
dirty fingernails, or don’t trust themselves or simply don’t have time will
surely go to the dealer anyway - whatever I or others say.
I admit I have only used hylomar lately, used a silicone based sealant before
also without “normal” gasket and this also worked extremely well - never a leak.
Silicone was easier to remove though.
What are your less positive experience with hylomar ? . I dont know hylosil -
what is the good characterictic about this product ?. What make is the non-OEM
XK cover gasket that works - where can it be ordered ?
Thanks for you patience with us unprofessional DIY’ers.
regards Jeffrey Gram
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 18:14:02 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: 2 LBC’s destroyed in explosion…
On Wed, 6 Mar 1996, Greg Meboe wrote:
Darn it,
Yesterday was sure a lousy one. As some of you may know, Dianne,
myself, and our 8 month old daughter Emily have been staying at my in-laws’
house South of Seattle, and yesterday it exploded.
I'm feeling like a pretty lucky fellow, knowing that normally Dianne,Emily and I would have been sitting inside the house at that time. All of
our friends and family have been very supportive, and the fire department
and Red Cross did an exemplary job.On a personal note, I think I’ll be taking a job with Boeing, I’ll start in
a few weeks.
What a horror story. Know that we’re all thinking about y’all. Let us
know how we can help. You’re right about being lucky, though. I’d take
my family over two LBCs any day, too.
On the other hand, congratulations on the job offer! Larry Lee Auburn, Alabama From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson ) Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 16:48:06 -0800 Subject: Columbus Auto Show- V12 You wrote:
Does one of the members of this list happen to own the '74 E-Type
“Black Widow” I saw
at the Columbus (Ohio) Convention Center this week? Absolutely
gorgeous! What would
be the value of something like this? and was one of the last 50
E-types built)
John …
for reference I just delivered our 1992 Benson and Hedges European
concours winner ( carmen/biscuit V12 E) to a london buyer
for L60k ( $95k) – Roly Alcot saw it just before it left !!
In the UK, that car may have commanded a further 20% premium if it had
been one of the last 49 cars ( the last one was green).Inthe US, I
would try to estimate as follows… Reggie Ray sold a superb S1 roadster
in Atlantic City I believe for $65k … a SIII would be on a par I
think - maybe a tad higher. Add in the rarity … maybe another 10-20%
more … so my guess would be $85k for the left hooker…
kind regards
tony
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
From: “Himes,John W.” jwh@dw.att.com
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 96 12:38:00 PST
Subject: Trip Computer & Ozone
Larry Karpman asked:
Anyone know how much room is behind the trip computer. Seems like a great
place for a CD player!
On my 88 XJS, there is no room behind the trip computer. It is held in by
some snaps
( OK, I could not thing of the right word, but it does come out fairly
easily )
It is about a 1 - 1 1/2 inches in depth. Behind that is some plastic duct
work for the center air vents.
You could always get a new radio that controls a CD changer you can mount in
the trunk.
My 2 cents worth on the ozone stuff. I do not have the actual facts in
front of me, but I have read when the US first started phasing out CFC’s,
that one molecule of a clorine(part of CFC’s) destroys several million
molecules of ozone by splitting the molecule into two during it 30 or so
year life up in the outer reaches of the atmosphere. It also takes several
years ( 5 I think? ) for the expelled CFC molecules to reach the ozone
layer. There have also been reports that there may be evidence that the
ozone is also thinning near the arctic circle.
I have also seen reports of increased reports of UV related illnesses &
diseases in southern Australia & southern South America.
Getting R12 is hard to do here in the US, but you still can, or at least
could last year. At the auto parts stores, you had to prove that you are a
mechanic, not just Joe Blow.
I did purchase a 15 pound can a few years ago (almost $200 US, purchased at
a farm equipment store in rural Colorado ) to recharge my Jag after some
leaky hoses were replaced and to use on my 72 Mustang after I replace the
hoses & AC pump. ( It blew a hole in the top of the pump several years ago)
If you are really interested, search the Internet. I am sure that there is
more then enough info on ozone depleting stuff, or a recent encyclopedia or
something.
John Himes
88 XJS 91K miles
From: R.R.Thomas@chem.utas.edu.au (Rick Thomas)
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 1996 13:02:35 +1000
Subject: XJ-S Noise levels?
I have been a sleeper on this list for the past few years and have enjoyed
reading posts from fellow Jag Lovers, now I have a question.
Should XJ-S interior noise levels be low?
I should preface the question with the following explanation.
I have been interested in purchasing a XJ-S for some time. Last night I
drove for the first time one of these cars. It was an original 1977 model
that was for sale at a low price. I was frankly disappointed with the
interior noise level. I had believed that an XJ-S would cocoon the driver in
a relatively quite enviroment. This was not the case with this particular
car, I could hear the V12 working, (not exhaust noise). Perhaps the weather
seals had deteriorated?
I intend to drive another example as a comparison. My dream and expectations
were shattered, I must be getting old. To put up with obtrusive engine
noise, even from a sweet V12 I would expect to be able to lay rubber in all
gears, something standard XJ-S’s can’t do.
Would XJ-S drivers care to comment on interior noise levels?
Regards.
Rick Thomas.
Ex 1961 3.8 E type.
Ex 1972 4.2 XJ6.
From: KenRedmond reddog39@popalex1.linknet.net
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 20:00:43 -0600
Subject: 85 S3 Oil Cooler Leak
Hi Guys,
I have noticed a small leak on my XJ-6 S3 in the area
where the oil cooler lines go into the oil filter housing. The service
manual is not very clear on this area. I would like to know if any one has
replaced the o-rings on the cooler pipes where they attach to the filter
housing. When you take off the bolt that holds on the retainer that holds
the hoses on do the pipes just pull out of the housing?
If anyone has already done this procedure would you
please let me know the important steps.
Thanks
Ken
Redmond XJ-6S3
Where else can you have this
much fun!
Ken Redmond
85 XJ-6
where else can you have this much fun!!!
From: Georges Krcmery gkrcmery@aei.ca
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 21:40:44 -0500
Subject: Let there be light!
Hello, Jag-lovers!
The Prince of darkness rides again! While my 1983 XJS is laid up for the
winter, I have tried (and failed) to correct two of the Prince’s dark deeds:
1-At night, the instrument panel is dim and unevenly lit, even with the
rheostat fully open. The tach is darker than the speedo, and only the top
part is illuminated. The 4 push-button switches on either side of
the clock can be barely seen. I have pulled the instrument panel and changed
the 5 bulbs. No improvement! I have bypassed the rheostat. No effect! The 2
bulbs lighting the 4 switches work fine but almost no light shows on the
face. The map lights,ceiling light,gear selector & lighter lights all seem
normal.The battery is charged and the voltage is normal. Why ain’t there light?
2-The light selector,ignition switch,temp and mode selectors are even darker
than the instrument panel,almost invisible. I changed the bulb on the
opticell: no change! The optical fibers don’t look damaged and are properly
connected. Is it possible that they go bad over time?
One common denominator is that all these instruments,switches,selectors bear
green reflective(?)lettering(phosphor?). Can it go bad over time, lose it’s
reflective
quality ? Has anyone else encountered this situation ? I would be grateful
for any ideas suggestions or explanations.
Regards,
Georges
Georges Krcmery
4616 Hilltop, Pierrefonds,Qc
Canada, H9J 3L7
514-620-5702
From: jefdrab@central.co.nz (Jeff Drabble)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 16:34:21 +1300
Subject: Jaguar Rally
Hello to all Jaguar lovers in this group. My name is Jeff Drabble
and I have subscibed to your list for a short period to bring to
your attention the 6th National Jaguar Rally of New Zealand, which
is to be held during Easter of 1997. We expect a turn out of several
hundred Jaguars, ranging from SS to possibly an XK 220 if we can
manage it. Our last National Rally was a great success with
participants from all over New Zealand and also Australia, US and
UK. I have been appointed as the co-ordinator of this rally.
This is an invitation to join us in Hawkes Bay, New Zealand, to take
part in the event. If you can bring a car that’s great, if not, we
would attempt to put you in a borrowed one, or really it’s not even
necessary to bring a car, just join us and you will be well looked
after. I will remain on this list for a short time to assess the
interest and if you wish to communicate with me directly, you can
reach me at ( jefdrab@central.co.nz ),and I will be happy to give
you details of the event, of New Zealand or of anything else you
need to know. Please note that the event is not this coming
Easter, but Easter of 1997, so that should give you ample time to
make arrangements. It would be a great boost to us if you could
paste a note of this event in your local or national magazine, where-
ever you may be.
I understand it is protocol to mention one’s cars when subscribing,
so here are mine.
Mk VIII, auto, black, fully restored.
Mk 2, M.O.D, 3.4, copper-bronze, excellent original.
XJ6, Series 3, auto, 4.2, silver, daily hack.
XJC, V 12, 5 speed manual, white. fully rest., ( on long term loan )
Any snail mail regarding this event should be directed to
Jeff Drabble
P.O Box 8569
Havelock North
New Zealand.
We look forward to hearing from you.
Jeff Drabble
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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 8 March 1996 Volume 01 : Number 411
From: REMANKING@aol.com
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 22:44:09 -0500
Subject: New XK book
While crawling around the web the other night I came across a new XK book
that is being released this month. It is called XK Jaguars and is by Boyce.
It is selling for 19.95 pounds (Sterling) and you can E-mail them at:
bookspeed@bookspeed.win-uk.net
I hope it is better than the recent “Essential Jaguar XK” by Lawrence. All
the 120 cars and pictures in that one were basically the same ones from the
Porter book. Un-essential I thought.
From: BMack7316@aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 00:12:14 -0500
Subject: Decision time, match number two – Rebuild or Replace
Round One – “Chevy big block defeated in a lopsided bout against Jaguar for
the privelege of spending Brad’s money.” I’ve decided to keep my XJS V12
exactly that, an XJS V12. There just wasn’t enough pros to cancel the cons
of mutating to a big block anyway.
Rather than buy an engine with an unknown history and, perhaps, a
questionable future, I want to investigate first completely rebuilding what I
have – the motor is only going to come out of this car once while I’m its
owner.
Can anyone recommend a reputable place within a hundred miles of the DC
metropolitan area to have a V12 HE motor rebuilt? What might it cost for a
complete rebuild if the engine is out? Engine in?
Brad Mack
85 SIII
85 XJS
92 Pathfinder
“He who gets there first with the most wins.”
From: BMack7316@aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 00:13:03 -0500
Subject: A/C Problem & R134 Plan
Hey Hey.
Need help with something. This horrible winter can’t last forever, so time
to fix this BLOODY thing. (I suppose our friends across the pond are rubbing
off on me.)
Here’s the scoop: 85 SIII AC switch set to [on] and climate set to 65.
Compressor doesn’t operate. Jumped directly from battery and it works
fine, but no cold air. Tried to give Freon, but compressor won’t cycle it.
First guess appears to be a clog somewhere. I need to know where the low
side switch is and what other probable causes might be.
Also, in another year or so, R12 will be extinct in the U.S. Has anyone
thought about what needs to be done to convert our Jags to environmentally
friendly R134 capable A/C systems? I only like to sweat if for good reason
Grateful for any help.
Brad Mack
85 SIII
85 XJS
92 Pathfinder
“He who gets there first with the most wins.”
From: ndater@gnu.uvm.edu (Noah Dater)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 00:26:05 -0500
Subject: Re: A/C Problem & R134 Plan
There is a burnout fuse on the side of the compressor unit that
blows when the unit has no charge. AS to the reason why the system is
discharged I can’t really help out.
Noah
83 XJ6
Here’s the scoop: 85 SIII AC switch set to [on] and climate set to 65.
Compressor doesn’t operate. Jumped directly from battery and it works
fine, but no cold air. Tried to give Freon, but compressor won’t cycle it.
First guess appears to be a clog somewhere. I need to know where the low
side switch is and what other probable causes might be.Also, in another year or so, R12 will be extinct in the U.S. Has anyone
thought about what needs to be done to convert our Jags to environmentally
friendly R134 capable A/C systems? I only like to sweat if for good reason
Grateful for any help.
Brad Mack
85 SIII
85 XJS
92 Pathfinder
“He who gets there first with the most wins.”
“When I die, I’d like to go peacefully.
In my sleep.
Like my grandfather.
Not screaming,
like the passengers in his car…”
– anonymous–
-----------------------------------------------------------
Noah Dater ----ndater@moose.uvm.edu----
Burlington, VT
From: “Ryan Border” border@best.com
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 21:24:30 +0000
Subject: Tri carbs for sale, as seen in rec.autos.antique
Saw this in the rec.autos.antique newsgroup. Seemed like a good deal
and thought I’d pass it along. I don’t know any more than what’s
here (except that I might buy them if I had the cash).
Ryan.
From: aatri@sedona.net (Warren Anderson)
Subject: Jaguar fuel system - aftermarket
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 1996 22:02:49 GMT
Organization: Sedona Internet Services, Inc.
For Jaguar 4.1l.
Mikuni carburetor retrofit kit.
All parts are new.
Kit was marketed by Lynx, Sydney, Australia.
Assembly ordered for 3.4 engine; will not fit 3.4 and was not
returnable. Original invoice for $1185.00 US (list price for kit
$1500.00), dated 1987.
Kit includes three Mikuni carbs, manifold, velocity stacks, air
cleaner assemblies and all hardware for E type Jag installation.
Mikuni carb # N 40 PHH-98 (as marked).
All parts in original shipping box as received. $650.00 US cash.
Warren Anderson
aatri@sedona.net
From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 1996 20:24:29 -0800
Subject: Re: oil leaks
Let’s see, S3 XJ6 cam covers take me less than an hour to do
properly if they aren’t stuck on too bad. An XJS takes 4-5 hours
because the intake manifold and fuel rail assembly have to come off.
The car I referred to was an XJS. I would not recommend resealing the
cam covers on an XJS for the average dyi because of this fact. It is
important to do it properly if you go ahead and do it. That is the
reason I took umbrage with your trivialization of the job. Unless the
sealing techniques I recommended are used the cam covers WILL leak
again, soon. The thin OEM type gaskets aren’t worth the paper they are
stamped out of. The metal reinforced goretex type used on the new XJ12s
are the only ones that work.
On the subject of dirty fingernails, there is no excuse for them. Good latex gloves are available for around $5.00 a hundred. Jeffrey Gram wrote:
Michael Neal,
No need to swear. Did I mix cars (cam covers) up ? Does it matter ? Or did I
offend your position as a professional tech mech ?. People who don’t like to get
dirty fingernails, or don’t trust themselves or simply don’t have time will
surely go to the dealer anyway - whatever I or others say.I admit I have only used hylomar lately, used a silicone based sealant before
also without “normal” gasket and this also worked extremely well - never a leak.
Silicone was easier to remove though.What are your less positive experience with hylomar ? . I dont know hylosil -
what is the good characterictic about this product ?. What make is the non-OEM
XK cover gasket that works - where can it be ordered ?Thanks for you patience with us unprofessional DIY’ers.
regards Jeffrey Gram
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 23:48:44 -0800
Subject: Re: Let there be light!
George-
Mine are rather dull, too. But, they are even. Some time ago I repplaced all
the bulbs with new. Prior to that, they were very uneven. In incandescent
bulbs, over time, the filament “boils off” and condenses on the interior of
the bulb. This happens on headlamps, too, so replacing them every few years
will make for much brighter illumination.
Good luck!
Hunt
At 09:40 PM 3/6/96 -0500, Georges Krcmery wrote:
Hello, Jag-lovers!
The Prince of darkness rides again! While my 1983 XJS is laid up for the
winter, I have tried (and failed) to correct two of the Prince’s dark deeds:1-At night, the instrument panel is dim and unevenly lit, even with the
rheostat fully open. The tach is darker than the speedo, and only the top
part is illuminated. The 4 push-button switches on either side of
the clock can be barely seen. I have pulled the instrument panel and changed
the 5 bulbs. No improvement! I have bypassed the rheostat. No effect! The 2
bulbs lighting the 4 switches work fine but almost no light shows on the
face. The map lights,ceiling light,gear selector & lighter lights all seem
normal.The battery is charged and the voltage is normal. Why ain’t there light?2-The light selector,ignition switch,temp and mode selectors are even darker
than the instrument panel,almost invisible. I changed the bulb on the
opticell: no change! The optical fibers don’t look damaged and are properly
connected. Is it possible that they go bad over time?One common denominator is that all these instruments,switches,selectors bear
green reflective(?)lettering(phosphor?). Can it go bad over time, lose it’s
reflective
quality ? Has anyone else encountered this situation ? I would be grateful
for any ideas suggestions or explanations.Regards,
Georges
Georges Krcmery
4616 Hilltop, Pierrefonds,Qc
Canada, H9J 3L7
514-620-5702
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 1996 23:48:47 -0800
Subject: Re: A/C Problem & R134 Plan
BRAD-
There is a thermal fuse mounted to the compressor, which will blow if the
compressor overheats, inhibiting the clutch. This is good, because without
freon, it (the compressor) will burn out and seize. The fuse is about $10.00
and easily replaced. When mine failed, recharging it was not the only
problem - my expansion valve required replacement, too.
Hunt
At 12:13 AM 3/7/96 -0500, BMack7316@aol.com wrote:
Hey Hey.
Need help with something. This horrible winter can’t last forever, so time
to fix this BLOODY thing. (I suppose our friends across the pond are rubbing
off on me.)Here’s the scoop: 85 SIII AC switch set to [on] and climate set to 65.
Compressor doesn’t operate. Jumped directly from battery and it works
fine, but no cold air. Tried to give Freon, but compressor won’t cycle it.
First guess appears to be a clog somewhere. I need to know where the low
side switch is and what other probable causes might be.Also, in another year or so, R12 will be extinct in the U.S. Has anyone
thought about what needs to be done to convert our Jags to environmentally
friendly R134 capable A/C systems? I only like to sweat if for good reason
Grateful for any help.
Brad Mack
85 SIII
85 XJS
92 Pathfinder
“He who gets there first with the most wins.”
From: ejt@wg.icl.co.uk (Ted Trim)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 10:03:20 GMT
Subject: Re: List Administration
Kirby writes…
On the other hand, the server the brit-cars list is on (autox.team.net)
seems to contain a LOT of automobile-related lists. Maybe they wouldn’t
mind one more.
I wondered about this. The mini-list recently had a whip-round to support
the purchase of a dedicated machine for these lists to run out of, I believe
this is still pending. Should we ask?
Cheers,
Ted
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 11:12:02 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: XJ-S Noise levels?
Rick,
Would XJ-S drivers care to comment on interior noise levels?
I could hear the V12 working, (not exhaust noise). Perhaps the weather
seals had deteriorated?
I have a '88 XJ-S. I can hear the V12 working and all seals are ok.
(However, I have much more noise from my whining differential )
I had driven another XJ-S ('87) some time ago, and I think the engine
noise level was about the same. So I would think if you expect 0 db
engine noise, the XJ-S might not be your first choice. But it is really
a nice car. Having seen the new XK8 (and knowing I could never afford
a new one) I’m feeling quite fine with my old car
Kind regards
-
- Matthias
From: David Wood David.Wood@durham.ac.uk
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 12:25:12 PST
Subject: Re: Interior Kit Sale
On 06 Mar 96 16:34:17 EST J.W. Beckmeyer wrote:
Hello all!
If you get Hemmings and you’re going to be doing the interior of your Jag soon,
be sure to check out page 2295 in the March issue. Hellava sale going on at
Bartlett.Can’t vouch for the merchandise but the prices sure are tempting…
Best regards,
Jim Beckmeyer Union CIty, MI USA
e-mail: 73131.3076@compuserve.com
90 Jaguar XJ-40-Sovereign
60 Jaguar MK II
Jim,
Very topical. I’m after new interior seats to replace the existing ones. I have an 85
SIII with dark grey tweed (i.e. cloth) trim. I want to replace this with black leather.
I’ve tried a local Jag breaker, who would sell a set for �100 - if only there was one
around. No response in the last three months. In the last issue of Jaguar World, it
was announced that Black Country Jaguar have bought 60 truck loads of
original Jaguar trim for SIII, XJS and XJ40 models, and will be selling at heavily
discounted prices. I gave them a ring yesterday. Yes, they could supply seats in
black - �1,000!! + tax = �1175. This is a discounted price??? I didn’t take up the
offer, but would be interested to see what Bartlett are offering - or indeed, if anyone
else knows of more realistically priced second hand or new seats. Can you provide
me with some more details?
Cheers,
Dave Wood.
From: alindsay@fit.edu (ALEX H. LINDSAY)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 09:41:37 -0500
Subject: Re: XK8 Launched at Geneva Motor Show
Someone wrote:
It also looks very similar to the new Aston DB7 (I wonder if these two
cars share the same body shell).
There is an article in the April issue of Car and Driver about the
DB7 and DB7 Volante. In the article it states that the DB7 is built on a
modified XJS platform and the engine is derived from a 3.2 Jaguar six but
designed and built by Tom Wilkinshaw Racing. This engine is supercharged and
intercooled to produce 335 hp.
I wonder, is the XK8 also built on an XJS platform or is it a
totally new chassis? Judging by the appearance (as you mentioned, they are
very similar), this would appear to be so. Throw in the fact that both are
Ford owned companies, and, well … there you have it.
Now, if they would only use that Jag based six instead of a V-8 …
I just can’t relate to a V-8 in a Jag, it sounds sort of, well, you know,
… lumpish.
However, could lead to a whole movement years down the road when V-8
Jag engines are being swapped out for sixes and twelves. (:o> !
Alex H. Lindsay
From: “BJ Kroppe” wkroppe@ford.com
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 11:49:10 -0500
Subject: Re: 85 S3 Oil Cooler Leak
Ken wrote:
When you take off the bolt that holds on the retainer that holds
the hoses on do the pipes just pull out of the housing?
Yes. While I have not replaced the o-rings with the engine in the car,
I did remove the cooler lines from the filter housing in preparation
for removing my engine. ('82 XJ6) I think your worst enemy is going to be
access under the intake manifold. Getting your hands in there
to replace the o-rings will be challenging.
I found the best way to reach the hold-down bolt for the cooler
lines is to lay under the car, behind the front wheel. If the car
is up on jack stands, you can lie on your stomach and reach
up to the engine. Otherwise, you’ll have to lie on your back,
with your feet sticking out from under the car. Good luck.
BJ Kroppe - '82 XJ6
From: kboetzer@auspex.com (Ken Boetzer)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 08:35:14 -0800
Subject: Re: A/C Problem & R134 Plan
Also, in another year or so, R12 will be extinct in the U.S. Has anyone
thought about what needs to be done to convert our Jags to environmentally
friendly R134 capable A/C systems? I only like to sweat if for good reason
Grateful for any help.
Brad Mack
85 SIII
85 XJS
92 Pathfinder
“He who gets there first with the most wins.”
Brad,
The latest I heard was there is a new R12 direct replacement that will be available
as soon as this summer. This was from the local Chevron guy. He is actually one of
the few gas station types that is really on top of a lot of technical stuff. He’s
a racer and generally pretty sharp about lots of automotive issues. He owns the
station and we’ve been doing business for 15 years or so.
Cheers,
Ken Boetzer
From: wrf@scitec.com (William Frenchu)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 12:34:24 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Grace…
A trivia question I’d like the answer to…
Most of the Jaguar links I see, seem to indicate that Sir William’s
original design pledge was “Grace, Space and Pace”. Recently, however,
I noticed what appeared to be a quote, that listed it as “Grace, Pace
and Space”. Any idea which is historically correct?
For that matter, did Sir William ever actually utter either?
=============================================================================
Bill Frenchu |"Back when I was a
Scitec, Inc. | boy, we carved our
- ----------------------------------------------------| own IC’s out of wood."
Work:wrf@scitec.com (609) 921-3892 x224|-----------------------
Home:74575.61@compuserve.com |Never ask a mortician to
Web: http://www.lookup.com/Homepages/51244/home.html|“bring back a cold one”.
=============================================================================
From: “J.W. Beckmeyer” 73131.3076@compuserve.com
Date: 07 Mar 96 09:49:43 EST
Subject: Re: Interior Kit Sale
David,
For the XJ6 SIII, they list:
(regular price/sale price)
Standard kit: US$3101.59/US$1400
Seat set: US$1906/US$850
Carpet set: US$472/US$200
Hope this helps.
Best regards,
Jim Beckmeyer Union CIty, MI USA
e-mail: 73131.3076@compuserve.com
90 Jaguar XJ-40-Sovereign
60 Jaguar MK II
From: alindsay@fit.edu (ALEX H. LINDSAY)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 09:51:34 -0500
Subject: Re: XK8 Launched at Geneva Motor Show
– [ From: John Horner * EMC.Ver #2.10P ] –
What did they do to the poor XK8’s nose?
It looks like the eyes have been pinched severely
towards the center of the grill, which treatment
is most surely not Jaguar-like.
John,
Did you ever stare a large predatory cat directly in the face (from
a safe vantage point of course)? Quite often they have a sort of cross-eyed
look. Maybe the designers took a cue from nature. That feline look of grace
in movement has always been a sort of trademark of a Jaguar (the car). Now,
maybe they are going for the eyes.
Or, maybe not, and they just got the design wrong and the lights are
pinched severly towards the center of the grill. Who knows? ;)>
Alex H. Lindsay
From: ASOMELECT@aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 12:38:22 -0500
Subject: THUMPING NOISE
I HAVE A 1988 JAG VANDENPLAS WITH A STRANGE PROBLEM THAT I HOPE SOMEONE CAN
HELP ME WITH. I HAD LOW BRAKE PRESSURE IN THE CAR AND CHANGED THE ACCUMULATOR
VESSEL. SINCE THAT TIME THERE IS A STRANGE INTERMITTANT THUMPING SOUND FROM
THE DASH AREA. I HAVE CHANGED THE LOW PRESSURE SWITCH, THE CHARGE VALVE, THE
OVERVOLT RELAY, AND THE LOAD SOLENOID. STILL THE NOISE CONTINUES. DOES ANYONE
HAVE ANY IMPUT? THANK YOU, MARI. C.
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 07:19:06 -0800
Subject: [none]
This is multipart MIME message.
- –anhegbyyckboxpdbnkbnahpobdtqyv
Content-Type:text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; name=“NCZ060B.TMP”
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
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- –anhegbyyckboxpdbnkbnahpobdtqyv–
From: Chris Howard christopher@netmanage.com
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 96 10:43:59 GST
Subject: New paws for the Cat
Just had a set of new tyres installed on my Xj6 yesterday and learned
how much a set of Pirelli p-5’s are in cost, and also found out about a
newer Pirelli tire called the P-4000, which I had installed, and they
are great and alot less expensive, the ride is so much better now
than with the set of Japaneeze tyres that were on the car when I bought it last month. Check these new P-4000’s out, really nice tyre.
Christopher Howard
Engineer, Technical Support Group
NetManage, INC. email me at:
10725 DeAnza Blvd. christopher@netmanage.com
Cupertino, CA 95014 our homepage:
<www.netmanage.com>
408/973-8181
408/973-8272 fax Home of the Chameleon !!
From: Ryan Border rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 11:16:46 -0800
Subject: Binding Brakes- first look / diagnosis?
Hello Everyone-
Well, last night I took a first look at my brakes (rears bound up Sunday
night). Put the car up on jack-stands and pulled all the wheels. Checked
the bridge pipe that I opened on Sunday night (left rear)… and there were
no signs of a big leak. Checked it, and it seemed to be tight.
Could not find any kinks/damage to any of the lines. All flexible hoses
(including the rear one) are “new”. Actually a couple of years old,
but very few miles on them. I have used nothing but Castrol GT/LMA in the
system.
Opened the bleeder on the left-rear, and bled it. A non trivial ammount
of air came out, before I got clean fluid. I attribute this to opening
it up Sunday night to relieve the hydraulic pressure in the system back
there- which was causing the binding. The master was behaving
very stangely though:
Depress pedal- fluid comes out the bleeder.
Pull pedal out
Depress again- no fluid, and no resistance.
It’s acting like the return spring (it’s a Dunlop Master) isn’t pushing
the plunger back.
I could revive the system by closing things up and sort of pumping/ratcheting
the pedal. It would start dead near the floor- depress hard and it would
spring back just a wee bit. Depress hard again, and it would spring back
just a bit more, etc. Eventually, the pedal was all the way out, and the
brakes felt normal.
The rear brakes are not grabbing right now. I can depress the pedal very
hard and the pressure doesn’t stay in the system when I release it. The
rotors drag some (as do the fronts) but I can turn them by hand, and as
I understand it this is normal… it takes a bit of turning for the rotor
runout to fully push back the pads.
I’m a bit stumped.
Any diagnosis for the somewhat strange master behavior? Can anyone
correlate this behavior with a failure that would cause my rear brakes
to bind up?
At this point, I’m tempted to put the wheels back on and drive it around
the block a bunch of times to see if the failure repeats…
Ryan.
End of jag-lovers-digest V1 #411
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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 8 March 1996 Volume 01 : Number 412
From: RWOODLIN@garfield.foods.indiana.edu
Date: 07 Mar 96 14:22:07 EST
Subject: XJ-s Interior Noise
Rick,
By all means test drive other XJ-Ss! My '84 beater (103,000+) for all
its faults is a very quiet and smooth ride.
Robert Woodling
‘84 XJ-S
slummin’ in the fast lane…
From: JimJag@aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 14:48:29 -0500
Subject: Re: New paws for the Cat
I recently replaced the tires on my 1985 Vanden Plas and I am euphoric over
“the ride”. I put on Michelin MXV4 at $160 per tire +/- (mounted) and IMHO,
I like them better than Pirellis. what a GREAT investment that was!!!
From: alindsay@fit.edu (ALEX H. LINDSAY)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 09:51:34 -0500
Subject: Re: XK8 Launched at Geneva Motor Show
Alex says;
< Did you ever stare a large predatory cat directly in the face (from
<a safe vantage point of course)? Quite often they have a sort of cross-eyed
<look. Maybe the designers took a cue from nature. That feline look of grace
Hmmm, I had not thought of that; but it is most certasinly true. Maybe
the artist could have been less realistic, and used a bit more “artistic
liberties” in his creation.
LLoyd -ummmm, yes, I am married to an artist, why do you ask?-
From: JagMkV@aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 15:41:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Mk V
Brian… it’s good to hear from another Mark V owner. Damn few of us around,
so it seems, unless we’re all too intimidated by the XJ6 and XJS crowd that
seems to dominate the list. It’s time we spoke up a bit. FYI, I am about
2/3rds the way through a total restoration of my 1950 Mark V saloon. If you
need sources of bits and pieces, let me know. One suggestion, before taking
things apart, take hundreds of pictures and even some video tape. I took
what I thought was a lot of pictures, and I"m having a hell of a time finding
where everything goes back on the car. With so few Mark V’s around, it’s
virtually impossible to find an original one to look at. Luckily, though,
most of the parts required for the restoration can be had.
Craig Carragan
Southbury, Ct.
From: JagMkV@aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 15:41:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Mk V
In a message dated 96-03-06 06:54:25 EST, 100353.1733@compuserve.com (John
Elmgreen) writes:
! I’ll be surprised if you don’t
hear
from Rob Reilly, who is working on a Mk V restoration book.
If anyone knows how I can get in contact with Rob Reilly, please let me know.
A fellow Mark V owner is worth twice his weight in gold! (particularly if he
knows a lot about his car).
Thanks
Craig
From: “Scott W. Phillips - Gillette Foundation” <SWPHIL@GCH_ADMIN.GCHOSPITAL.COM>
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 1996 15:08:26 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Jaguar World magazine
Just discovered Jaguar World magazine. While I am sure this is an
old, and oft answered, question for the group…what do folks think of it and
are there others that I am not aware of too?
Here comes another newbie dumb question…what does ‘concours’ mean.
Thanks again for your help and patience with those of us new to the
list and jag ownership.
Scott
'88 XJ40
From: JQJF14A@prodigy.com (MR JOHN W SHUCK)
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 1996 16:26:14 EST
Subject: Jaguar World magazine
this is published by Paul Skelleter I believe. Great magazine, but
pricey. I haven’t seen EJAG magazine recently. Anybody seen it,
still published? Get Hemmings also, this will be a great source of
inexpensive later stuff. Where are you located? Might know of stuff
in the area. Concours…means we clean our cars with tiny cotton
swabs and talk about hose clamps. If you think this gets a little
nuts…hang around some of the Corvette people sometime. I’ve
attended some NCRS stuff and they talk about correct dates on hose
clamps and starter motors. Lighten up…
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 16:39:42 -0500
Subject: CFC’s (no Jaguar content)
Regrettably continuing the recent CFC discussion, I find myself needing to
make a sort of confession; a clarification of sorts.
I stated that I, on better-than-average authority, felt that the CFC/ozone
layer issue is a real concern requiring a real response. I added that I
also felt that some of the regulations imposed were misguided and excessive.
As a result of a current problem with the air conditioning in my wife’s
Honda CRX and an article in today’s local paper, I have learned more. It
turns out that the regulations that have been applied nationwide and
worldwide (ceased production of CFC’s, phase out of equipment using it) are
generally the items I agree with. The regulations I DON’T agree with turn
out to apply to only two states, Florida and Wisconsin.
I don’t know about Wisconsin, but that makes perfect sense here in Florida;
our legislature is known for dreaming up its own supplemental regulations on
all types of issues du jour (see my home page for the discussion on the
energy crisis and the Florida Energy Code). Typically, these ill-conceived
regulations are overturned in some later session when somebody comes to
their senses.
That was today’s newspaper article; Florida has now repealed the requirement
that air-conditioning shops are prohibited from added freon to a system
without first identifying and correcting a leak. This was most assuredly
one seriously misguided requirement, since sometimes the seals in the
compressor will leak just a smidgen over several years of operation. It
could no longer be corrected, so the system must run low on freon until it
actually fails, and then the owner is out some REAL money.
It also caused problems with those of us who work on our own cars, who
sometimes find and correct our OWN leaks and then have to go to such a shop
to correct the freon level. Sometimes it was possible to convince the shop
that your correction met the letter of the law, but some were so scared of
the regulations that they would still refuse to add freon without tearing it
apart themselves.
Worst of all, it had become fairly standard procedure when the reason for
low freon could not be found to simply replace the compressor and charge the
customer $500.
Now, the regulation is gone – supposedly because the “benefit was less than
expected”. Whatever. Good riddance.
Meanwhile, I was talking about stupid regulations that clearly didn’t apply
to most of you. I didn’t know they were Florida and Wisconsin only. Sorry.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: “J.W. Beckmeyer” 73131.3076@compuserve.com
Date: 07 Mar 96 16:37:26 EST
Subject: Re: Interior Kit Sale
By any chance do they have similar prices on Mark X’s?
Lee,
Sorry…they only have sets on sale for MK I, II, IX, E type, XJS, XJ6 and the
XK’s.
Best,
Jim Beckmeyer
From: “J.W. Beckmeyer” 73131.3076@compuserve.com
Date: 07 Mar 96 16:37:28 EST
Subject: RE:Interior Kit Sale
Where? Do they have an 800 number?
Yes, 800-338-8034, according to Hemming’s.
Best regards,
Jim Beckmeyer Union CIty, MI USA
e-mail: 73131.3076@compuserve.com
90 Jaguar XJ-40-Sovereign
60 Jaguar MK II
From: Brian Craggs aa080@sfn.saskatoon.sk.ca
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 16:03:30 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Mk V
Hi Craig,
At least there is one more MkV out there. Perhaps we should try
to get a register going while there are still enough cars around to make
it worthwhile.
I must say that I do like your email name. We have to live with
anominous letters and numbers, but what can you expect when the service
is free. I would be happy to take a photo of an assembly or whatever and
fax you the result. (You might want to wait until we get rid of our
winter accumilation of snow though). Great to hear that parts are still
available.
Look forward to hearing from you again, (and again)
Brian
Brian Craggs aa080@sfn.saskatoon.sk.ca
Saskatoon
Saskatchewan Canada
From: Tony Watts amw@maths.uq.oz.au
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 08:26:41 +1000
Subject: Noise in XJ-S
There should normally be no audible noise from the engine working, at east
below about 4000 rpm. I hear a slight whine from mine, sounding like
ancillaries such as alternator, fan and a little noise from tyres,
transmission or diff. But I cannot hear any exhaust noise at all from
inside the car. I drove half a dozen before I bought one, and only one of
them had any engine noise, and even this was a low level and not unpleasant.
This was pre HE, labelled a cannonball model, which may have had something
to do with it.
On my car, I get a distinct noise from the transmission when I hold it in
first, probably a bearing noice. Perhaps this is a sign of the
ransmission needing attention.
Tony Watts
From: Chris Howard christopher@netmanage.com
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 96 15:18:01 GST
Subject: Front end problems XJ6 s3 1984 92K miles
Thanks for the infor on the Pirelli tires, I didn’t know the p-4000
was standard on the new Jaguars !
Anyways heres my problem :
There has been a metallic clunking sound coming out of the front left
of the car, only happens when I hit large bumps, and it has been
getting worse to the point where it is more frequent. Yesterday
when the car was on the rack for tires, The mechanics checked
shocks, and the lower suspension and no visible shock leaking or
shock bushing problems, so I suspect the upper ball joints are
in need of replacement, since the car has 92K on it, this is probably
normal. My big question here is how much am I going to expect to pay
for a job like this ? I have three good mechanics (thanks to your
recommendations) and recommends from JAG club members, so its
really down to price, and I need to figure out when I should
do this based on my budget, oh and I live in the San Francisco
area. Thanks guys ahead of time.
Chris
Christopher Howard
Engineer, Technical Support Group
NetManage, INC. email me at:
10725 DeAnza Blvd. christopher@netmanage.com
Cupertino, CA 95014 our homepage:
<www.netmanage.com>
408/973-8181
408/973-8272 fax Home of the Chameleon !!
From: Chris Howard christopher@netmanage.com
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 96 15:54:37 GST
Subject: FW: Re: XK8 Launched at Geneva Motor Show
Sounds like a good reason to invest in a older jaguar
- — On Wed, 6 Mar 1996 14:15:03 -0500 Elgsweep@aol.com wrote:
In a message dated 96-03-05 19:46:09 EST, Roger Peng wrote:
It also looks very similar to the new Aston DB7 (I wonder if these two
cars share the same body shell). I guess I was expecting something
dramatically
different…It will probably sell well though. After all, there’s a big crowd out there
that thinks the styling of the Lexus coupe is exciting.
I agree 100% My first reaction was “Aston Martin”. Kind of too bad since the
classic Jaguar styles never followed the crowd!
Dennis Murphy
Geneva, IL
1952 XK120
1990 XJS
- -----------------End of Original Message-----------------
Christopher Howard
Engineer, Technical Support Group
NetManage, INC. email me at:
10725 DeAnza Blvd. christopher@netmanage.com
Cupertino, CA 95014 our homepage:
<www.netmanage.com>
408/973-8181
408/973-8272 fax Home of the Chameleon !!
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 8 Mar 96 10:47:19
Subject: Re: List Administration
It’s a good rule in any volunteer organisation that you don’t ever knock back a
volunteer. I say go for it, Nick. What are we waiting for, a vote, or general
acclamation? If so, let’s hear it for Nick, gang. As for the cost, there must
be some way we can pass the hat for Nick’s expenses and maybe a bottle of Linie
Akvavit for his trouble 8+) ; I’m not aware of all the possibilities of the
Internet, but at worst we can fall back on the bbs custom of sending in a
cheque once a year.
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 8 Mar 96 11:06:44
Subject: re: XK8 Launched at Geneva Motor Show
-
- Kirbert wrote
IMHO, the XK8 looks really good from the front and sides. However, the rear
is a big miss as far as I’m concerned. Looks like a Ford design.
Opinion is opinion, and that’s a fact. Personally, if I want a Mazda, I’ll buy
a Mazda. Jaguar has always had styling imperfections, like the upright E-type
windshield and single-curvature XJ doors, but it has never been anonymous. Oh,
I know, it’s the current styling fashion - I can’t wait until the fashion moves
on or somebody breaks it.
What really worries me, though, is that nobody says anything about the
mechanicals. What’s under the bonnet - a Ford V8? It wouldn’t bother me, but
why the “no comment”?
- -Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 8 Mar 96 11:28:16
Subject: Re: oil leaks
Forgive me for butting in, but I have to take exception to two things in
Kirbert’s recent epistle:
One ring should do it, if it doesn’t, two is poor insurance.
One O-ring has a certain leakage resistance measured in terms of the pressure
differential across the joint. Two O-rings would halve the pressure
differential, doubling the ultimate failure pressure differential across the
complete joint. Mind you, a correctly designed O-ring seal has such a high
failure pressure that only an extreme application would need two.
Y’know, if this was a Jap car, it’d have a special D-shaped O-ring!
In my distinctly non-humble opinion, an intelligently designed car (which
includes some Japs, but let me tell you one day of the lump in my Isuzu
one-tonner) would have the cam cover joint lowered or raised to where no
half-circle sealing problem exists, since the silly thing is there only to
admit the boring bar for the camshaft bearings.
Another, slightly costlier option would be removable camshaft bearing blocks,
as in my humble (now stupidly sold) Datsun 240Z. At 250,000 km (160,000 mi.) I
rebored the engine. The camshaft bearings were only halfway to the wear limit.
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 8 Mar 96 12:06:31
Subject: Re: Front end problems XJ6 s3 1984 92K miles
Hi, Chris,
One point that’s often neglected on XJs is the inner pivot of the upper A-arms.
My first XJ had very vague and insecure handling and some thumping noises, but
both upper and lower ball joints were perfect and I could detect no other play.
Until, that is, I happened to jack up one front suspension with a garage jack
under the lower A-arm (for an unrelated purpose). With the suspension at +/-
normal ride height and no load on the wheel, I found I could rock the wheel in
and out by more than 10 mm (0.4 in.) at the tyre tread. The upper inner A-arm
bushes (shockingly expensive here in Oz, BTW) were not just worn but
non-existent; only the shells were left. A new set gave me sharp,
confidence-inspiring steering and made me decide to keep the car…
-
- Jan
From: Georges Krcmery gkrcmery@aei.ca
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 1996 21:36:18 -0500
Subject: Honeymoon’s Over
Scott W. Phillips wrote:
So…there I am, proud new Jag owner…bragging (first bad
omen) at the car wash 'cause the fellows there all think my '88 is
new, when I get in and try to start her up…and nothing.Unlike so many of you, I being mechanically challenged (nothing
beyond basic auto repair and care class back in 1973), can only sit
there wondering what’s up, with the hood up and all the other cars
zipping by…I am told that “the contact points in the front corners of the engine
compartment” were wet. After being blown off with air hoses and a
dose of WD-40, she started fine. Relief as I finally motor
away…Only to begin feeling water dripping down onto my left foot from
somewhere under the dashboard near the hood release handle…So my helpful friends…any suggestions as to the importance of my
problems…and if they are unique – common place – specific to the
XJ40 – etc.
When it was time to store my 1983 XJS last november,it was too cold to wash
it by hand so I took it to a drive-through car-wash for the first time.
Half-way through, my feet were deluged by water pouring from under the dash.
About 2 inches deep on the floor!
The tub in front of the windshield which houses the wiper motor is drained
by two hoses which discharge into the wheel-wells. It turned out that both
were blocked with small leaves, dead bugs,etc. The blockage had caused the
water to overflow the tub on the driver’s side into the bodywork, and
somehow find it’s way inside. (is there an air intake there, anybody know?)
Driving in the rain had not produced the same effect, probably because the
blockage did let some water through and the water did not concentrate as
fast. But it may account for my wiper motor dying (drowning?)last summer.
I dont know if the XJ40 is built the same way, but XJS owners should
probably check these drains.
Cheers,
Georges Krcmery
4616 Hilltop, Pierrefonds,Qc
Canada, H9J 3L7
514-620-5702
From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 1996 12:37:56 -0800
Subject: Re: New paws for the Cat
I sure am glad that someone agrees with my choice of tires. The
Pirelli 4000s seem to be decent, I would get them before I would spring
for the self-destructing P5s.
JimJag@aol.com wrote:
I recently replaced the tires on my 1985 Vanden Plas and I am euphoric over
“the ride”. I put on Michelin MXV4 at $160 per tire +/- (mounted) and IMHO,
I like them better than Pirellis. what a GREAT investment that was!!!
From: REMANKING@aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 01:03:40 -0500
Subject: XK120 bonnet badge
Someone asked recently about casting numbers on the underside of the 120
bonnet badge. I have two original badges and they both say “J. FRAY LTD
B’HAM” the b’ham I am sure refers to Birmingham, England. There are no
numbers or dates. This is the same company that is on the chrome sidelight
housing and on some other chrome trim items.
From: Tom Graham TGraham@internetMCI.COM
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 1996 22:26:52 -0500
Subject: Re: A/C Problem & R134 Plan
- – [ From: Tom Graham * EMC.Ver #2.3 ] –
The latest I heard was there is a new R12 direct replacement that will be
available as soon as this summer. This was from the local Chevron guy.
Indeed, those of us who follow the Newsgroup “rec.autos.tech” know that a
substitute for R-12 is scheduled for sale about the end of this March.
Won’t be cheap, probably $10US per pound, but it will be a direct
replacement for R-12. It is called GHG-X4, (GHG in honor of the chemist
who’s put the formula together). So, I certainly would hold off on any R-
134 conversion. For current status on it call McMullen Oil at 1-800-669-
5730 or Monroe Air Tech at 1-800-424-3836.
Cherio - Tom
From: REMANKING@aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 02:06:31 -0500
Subject: Period XK120
Picked up a Nov. 1950 issue of Road & Track the other day at a swap meet. It
has a silver and red XK120 on the cover. It has a California license plate
with 1950 tags, (plate no# 81A1591). This car could only have been a few
months old at the time of the photo. The car has been seriously
“Americanized”. It has big vetical bumper guards; a large horizontal badge
bar between the bumpers; chrome and brass leaper on the hood, and a large
rear view mirror on the dash. It is amazing that so many mods were done on a
car that was so rare and new at the time. I wonder if this car survives?
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 08 Mar 96 02:27:36 EST
Subject: Binding Brakes- first look / diagnosis?
Hi Ryan,
I believe your master brake cylinder seals/springs are screwed up. Buy a repair
kit anf take the master brake cylinder out for thorought cleaning, new seal and
reassembly - please note the exact order of items inside…
I would not take tke car on the road before that brake pedal is as stiff as
should be.
Regards Jeffrey Gram
From: “Himes,John W.” jwh@dw.att.com
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 96 08:26:00 PST
Subject: XJS Noise
Rick Thomas asked:
Should XJ-S interior noise levels be low?
Before I purchased my 88 XJS I was driving a 90 Eagle Talon TSI. Fun little
car, must be why I like driving my wife’s 91 Plymouth Laser ( Please don’t
flame me, I just miss driving a stick sometimes )
When test driving the car, I could not believe how quiet the car was, yet
fairly strong. I was very supprised. Until I got used to how quiet the car
was & the short delay of any tachometer reading after the engine started,
there were several times I turned the car off to re-start it! ( I did not
know it was running, & no the stereo was not blaring! )
You can hear the engine on hard excelleration, but it is the quietest car I
have ever owned which makes it easier to hear any other problems, like a
vacuum leak I can not find! ( Previous cars include: 78 & 80 Pontiac Trans
Am, 77 Chevy Blazer, 88 GMC Truck, Subaru Bratt, 90 Eagle Talon . Current
cars - 72 Ford Mustang, 88 XJS 91K Miles and loving it! )
John Himes
P.S. Does anybody know it the Jaguar XK8 is making the car show circuit in
the US. The car show is in Denver Colorado this weekend and would like to
see it, else I probably will not go. Useally packed & too many dealers
trying to get you to buy.
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jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 9 March 1996 Volume 01 : Number 413
From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 19:49:15 +1100 (EST)
Subject: Re: A/C Problem & R134 Plan
Brad et al.,
Also, in another year or so, R12 will be extinct in the U.S. Has anyone
thought about what needs to be done to convert our Jags to environmentally
friendly R134 capable A/C systems? I only like to sweat if for good reason
I’ve been looking into this also. R12 is going out of fashion here in
Australia as well. Since my '74 system has been dissambled for a few
years now, I’m expecting to replace everything excluding the evaporator
(the thing in the dash). I’ll post my results when I get around to
getting some quotes.
Jaguar officially advertised recently in Jaguar Australia Magazine that
they could convert existing systems with a factory conversion. This may
be offered elsewhere so try looking around. My engine bay isn’t awefully
standard, so I don’t think this applies to me.
Any net advice would be appreciated.
(While a propane/iso-butane mixture sounds interesting I’ve decided that
I’ll keep the explosions to inside the engine if possible
regards,
Robert
“He who gets there first with the most wins.”
cv. sig below
Robert Dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **
From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 10:08:52 +0100
Subject: s3 XJ6 4.2
Can anyone tell me what the power-rating of the series 3 XJ6 4.2 is?
For import purposes here in Norway we pay a duty based on how many
kilowatt the engine is rated at. From books I can find the SAE
horsepower rating, but I believe the kw rating is based on DIN
horsepower… It is not an advantage to use the very optimistic
SAE figure, powerfull engines are taxed heavily.
I also need an accurate figure for the weight of the car.
The car in question is a regular UK 1982 base model.
Any input appreciated
Nick
Nick Johannesen @ Work http://www.sn.no/home/nick/
Phone: +47-2207 3981 Fax: +47-2207 3444
From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 96 11:30:00 MET
Subject: Geneva Car Show
Hello everyone,
Yesterday I visited the “Salon de l’automobile”. It was the first day open
to the public and the least crowded day usually. The exhibition hall is
situated alongside a motor way near the airport and its train station. It is
about 15 meters high and has a quarter square kilometre ground surface, I
guess. Partially there are 2 floors so when you enter and see all the car
stands it is quite an impressive sight.
The first thing I did was to go to the Jaguar stand. Usually the various
makes are always in the same place, a notable exception was the Rolls-Royce
and Bentley stand that moved from alongside the Jaguars to another place.
The first thing I saw was the new XK-8. It looks much better “in the flesh”
than on the photo s fortunately. It is beautiful. There is no chromium trim
except for the Jaguar emblem on the front and the Jaguar and XK-8 script on
the rear. Door handles are flush fitting and in body colour. There is no
front bumper as on the E-type but the two vertical grey “teeth” on the
horizontal (also chromed) bar in the mouth seem to be connected to a bumper
bar that resides inside the body work. This is not very good looking but
better than a safety bumper outside the body work I suppose. Another strange
“feature” is that a join visible under the doors in the body work was not
lead loaded away, but that is because it is a prototype may be. The bonnet
is much shorter than the one of the E-type and I doubt that an AJ-6 engine
could be installed. Now it is 4 litres V8. The emblem on the front states
simply “Jaguar” and underneath “4 litres”. The car was standing on a
revolving table and the engine was not visible. The interior looks nice with
3 small gauges in the centre dash and three slightly bigger ones in front of
the driver. As it was difficult to see there may be others. The dash has a
shiny wood finish as far as I could make out. I made a few photos that are
being developed now, I ll get them next week. Other cars on show were the
various variants of Jaguar and Daimler 6 cyl. saloons, one Daimler Double
six Century saloon, the most expensive. There was one 6 cyl. XJ-S
convertible too.
Next week I will go again with my wife as the local Jaguar club is invited
for a drink on the Jaguar stand.
Have a nice week-end!
Frans.
From: ejt@wg.icl.co.uk (Ted Trim)
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 11:13:44 GMT
Subject: Re: Grace, space and pace…
Bill Frenchu asked…
Most of the Jaguar links I see, seem to indicate that Sir William’s
original design pledge was “Grace, Space and Pace”. Recently, however,
I noticed what appeared to be a quote, that listed it as “Grace, Pace
and Space”. Any idea which is historically correct?
I’ve always seen and heard Grace, space and pace. I also have read that
an earlier (i.e. predating Jaguar’s use) campaign by MG used the version
“More grace, more space, more pace”. My dad adamantly maintains that it was
a Daimler slogan in the pre-Jaguar days, and he did have a couple of
Daimlers back then (Conquest Century). So its origin is obscure. Dunno
about historical correctness
Cheers,
Ted
From: RLehman x2576 RLEHMAN@npr.org
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 7:44:39 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Kirby’s book
I finally downloaded the book and OH MY!
A service book that’s easy to understand, because it tells you WHY things are!
An approach every service book should have. It’s a wonderful intro to the
XJS, even if you only add water, and change your own oil.
Kirby, why aren’t you writing service manuals full time? It’s what the common
man (person) needs in this world. Nice to know I can do something myself with
this added confidence.
Many thanks for your effort.
Russ Lehman
NPR AED Morning Edition Tech Director
Internet: rlehman@npr.org
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 05:15:57 -0800
Subject: Re: Geneva Car Show
You wrote:
Hello everyone,
Yesterday I visited the “Salon de l’automobile”.
I saw was the new XK-8. It looks much better “in the flesh”
than on the photo s
Yes, I agree I think they have done a very good job in blending in the
old and the new…
the engine was not visible.
It is my understanding that they are waiting for a second intro I think
either NY or some other venue to preview the engine itself … then the
car in October.
Many thanks for your update…
tony
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 05:36:02 -0800
Subject: re: XK8
You wrote:
What’s under the bonnet - a Ford V8? It wouldn’t bother me, but
why the “no comment”?
Under the bonnet is a 4 litre V8 that is more powerful than the BMW and
quieter than the Lexus … entirely designed by Jaguar with no funding
limits from Ford … When reviewed by Ford teck this past summer, it
was judged to have exceeded Ford’s expectations…
kind regards
tony
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 09:09:23 -0500
Subject: Re: XK8 Launched at Geneva Motor Show
< Did you ever stare a large predatory cat directly in the face (from
<a safe vantage point of course)? Quite often they have a sort of cross-eyed
<look. Maybe the designers took a cue from nature. That feline look of graceHmmm, I had not thought of that; but it is most certasinly true. Maybe
the artist could have been less realistic, and used a bit more “artistic
liberties” in his creation.
OK, so it’s a Siamese cat!
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: jaguar@gate.net
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 09:07:04 -0500
Subject: Misc. and Jag Club events in Florida
John,
First I must apologise for taking so long to respond.
After Daytona, I crewed at the St. Pete Grand Prix. Between crewing I was
preparing my D-Type to race at a HSR Sebring event last weekend. Next week I go
to Homestead to crew a Trans Am race and the following monday I go to Savanah to
practice at Roebling Road. I tend to get behind on my email.
I think the guys you met at the Lister pit were Larry Ligas, one of the builders
of the Predator D-Type and Ron Evans, a competition D-Type driver.
Larry Ligas, Ron Evans and I drove our cars at Sebring last weekend. There was a
large Jaguar turn out at the event.
If you send me your ground mail address I will mail you the informaiton about my
D-Type. The kit is built in Largo, near St. Pete. If you plan to visit the Tampa
-
- St. Pete area, I would be happy to meet you and introduce you to the
manufacturer.
- St. Pete area, I would be happy to meet you and introduce you to the
Below is a list of events the Sun Coast Jaguar Club is planning this year. If
any list members are interested in attending one of these events, let me know
and I will send you directions.
March 5 (Tue) Jaguar Club Meeting - Steak and Ale
March 30 (Sat) All British Car Day - Winter Park
April 2 (Tue) Jaguar Club Meeting - Steak and Ale
April 26-28 Walter Mitty Challenge - Road Atlanta
May 7 (Tue) Jaguar Club Meeting - Steak and Ale
May 18 (Sat) Caravan to Walter Hill's collection
June 4 (Tue) Jaguar Club Meeting - Steak and Ale
July 2 (Tue) Jaguar Club Meeting - Steak and Ale
July 14 (Sat) Caravan to the Fantasy of Flight Museum, Polk City
August 6 (Tue) Jaguar Club Meeting - Steak and Ale
Sept 3 (Tue) Jaguar Club Meeting - Steak and Ale
Sept 21 (Sat) Sun Coast Jaguar Club/JCNA Regional Concourse, Road
Atlanta
Oct 1 (Tue) Jaguar Club Meeting - Steak and Ale
Oct 19 (Sat) All British Field Meet, Picnic Island, Tampa
Nov 2-3 (Sat-Sun) Wings & Things, Air and Car Show, EAA Museum, Lakeland
Nov 5 (Tue) Jaguar Club Meeting - Steak and Ale
Dec 3 (Tue) SCJC Christmas Party and Installation Dinner
Dec ? (Sat) British Car Show, Ybor City
Doug Bohannon jaguar@gate.net
P. O. Box 2843 Sun Coast Jaguar Club
Winter Haven, FL 33883 Predator Jaguar D-Type
(941) 293-5335 Predator Jaguar XKSS under construction
(941) 967-7899 FAX 1964 MGB Race Car
1965 Land Rover 109 wagon under restoration
From: RLehman x2576 RLEHMAN@npr.org
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 9:15:07 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Kirby’s book
I finally downloaded the book and OH MY!
A service book that’s easy to understand, because it tells you WHY things are
and HOW they work!
An approach lacking in many “help” books. It’s a wonderful intro to XJS,
even if you’re only going to add water and change the oil.
Kirby, why aren’t you writing service manuals full-time? It’s what the
common man (person) needs in this world. Nice to know I can do something
myself with this added conficence.
Many thanks for your effort and those you referenced.
Russ Lehman
NPR AED Morning Edition Tech Director
Internet: rlehman@npr.org
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 09:41:34 -0500
Subject: re: XK8 Launched at Geneva Motor Show
What really worries me, though, is that nobody says anything about the
mechanicals. What’s under the bonnet - a Ford V8? It wouldn’t bother me, but
why the “no comment”?
If it’s the Ford “Modular” OHC V8 or some derivation (and I suspect it is),
it is an excellent engine, and fully suitable for a Jaguar. Sir William
didn’t like V8’s, but I think most or all of his objections have gone away
with the advent of multi-port EFI.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 08:48:22 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: List Administration
On 8 Mar 1996, Jan Wikstroem wrote:
It’s a good rule in any volunteer organisation that you don’t ever knock back a
volunteer. I say go for it, Nick. What are we waiting for, a vote, or general
acclamation? If so, let’s hear it for Nick, gang. As for the cost, there must
be some way we can pass the hat for Nick’s expenses and maybe a bottle of Linie
Akvavit for his trouble 8+) ; I’m not aware of all the possibilities of the
Internet, but at worst we can fall back on the bbs custom of sending in a
cheque once a year.
- Jan
With all of the comments so far taken into account, it’s hard to argue
against this. I won’t. Instead, I’ll offer my gratitude to Nick.
Larry Lee
From: “Himes,John W.” jwh@dw.att.com
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 96 08:01:00 PST
Subject: [none]
I can 2nd the motion by Georges Krcmery:
When it was time to store my 1983 XJS last november, it was too cold to
wash
it by hand so I took it to a drive-through car-wash for the first time.
Half-way through, my feet were deluged by water pouring from under the
dash.
About 2 inches deep on the floor!
The tub in front of the windshield which houses the wiper motor is drained
by two hoses which discharge into the wheel-wells. It turned out that both
were blocked with small leaves, dead bugs, etc. The blockage had caused the
water to overflow the tub on the driver’s side into the bodywork, and
somehow find it’s way inside. (is there an air intake there, anybody know?)
Driving in the rain had not produced the same effect, probably because the
blockage did let some water through and the water did not concentrate as
fast. But it may account for my wiper motor dying (drowning?)last summer.
I don’t know if the XJ40 is built the same way, but XJS owners should
probably check these drains.
I myself have never had the privilege of getting my feet wet as Georges
mentioned above, but can vouch for these drain tubes become clogged fairly
easily. On my 88 XJ-S there are 2 rubber draining tubes about a 1 inch in
diameter that connect to a steel tube maybe about 1/4 inch inside diameter.
Perfect place to clog on items other then water. I recently unclogged
mine. They were jam packed with mostly pine needles. ( I normally park my
car under a large pine tree. Could that be where they come from? ) I
believe this is where the fresh air is drawn in, so if it becomes a pool, it
has to drain somewhere!
John Himes
88 XJ-S 91k Miles
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 09:06:24 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: oil leaks
On 8 Mar 1996, Jan Wikstroem wrote:
Forgive me for butting in, but I have to take exception to two things in
Kirbert’s recent epistle:One ring should do it, if it doesn’t, two is poor insurance.
One O-ring has a certain leakage resistance measured in terms of the pressure
differential across the joint. Two O-rings would halve the pressure
differential, doubling the ultimate failure pressure differential across the
complete joint. Mind you, a correctly designed O-ring seal has such a high
failure pressure that only an extreme application would need two.
Not so!!! If the first O-ring fails, ALL of the [static] pressure will be
seen by the second O-ring. This is not a high-pressure application
anyway, which is where O-rings generally work best. In such an
application, fluid pressure deforms the O-ring against the adjacent parts
to achieve intimate contact. What’s required here is a seal that closes
any gaps without requiring fluid pressure. We are just trying to keep
oil inside an engine, not containing the pressure in a Space Shuttle SRB.
Larry Lee
From: RWOODLIN@garfield.foods.indiana.edu
Date: 08 Mar 96 10:34:23 EST
Subject: XK-8 Styling
My first impressions after viewing the pics on the web is WOW! what a
beautiful car!
To all those who bemoan the updated appearance and feel Jaguar has
copied other marques I pose this question - Where do you think many
of the styling cues originated? I have been amused at the number of
Jaguar lines that have shown up in other cars over the years. I
believe Jaguar has improved on many of the classic lines borrowed by
others from Jaguar to begin with!
From: weems@cs.umass.edu (Chip Weems)
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 10:55:39 -0500
Subject: XK-8 as a roadster?
I couldn’t resist doodling a bit with one of the XK-8 photos to
see what it would look like as a roadster. If you’re curious,
it’s on my web page (http://www.cs.umass.edu/~weems) – go to
“What I do in my spare time” and then “What I’d do if I had
any spare time” It’s admittedly a pretty crude attempt and
the quality of the gif is marginal, but after all, I don’t have
any spare time to do it right!
I probably won’t leave it on the page for more than a few days.
Chip
From: ehuff@tuba.aix.calpoly.edu
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 07:54:45 -0800
Subject: Re: Trip Computer
when I accelerated my fuel usage fell, and when I let off fuel usage rose.
Is it possible you accidently pushed the button which switched to metric
measurements?
Earl Huff
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 10:54:28 -0500
Subject: Re: A/C Problem & R134 Plan
Also, in another year or so, R12 will be extinct in the U.S. Has anyone
thought about what needs to be done to convert our Jags to environmentally
friendly R134 capable A/C systems?
I asked about cars in general, not Jaguar specifically. R-134a conversion
requires a new compressor, new expansion valve, and replacement of all the
rubber seals throughout the system. For most cars, we’re talking about $700
or so.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 12:14:34 -0500
Subject: Badges on rear of XJ-S
A little detail question for XJ-S owners. Perhaps, years from now, the
results may be important in concours competition.
The question involves the badges on either side of the license plate. If I
understand it correctly, the early cars said XJ-S on the right side and the
left side was blank. The XJ-S was actually four separate badges.
On the early HE cars ('81-'86), the XJ-S was made into a one-piece badge and
moved to the left side, and an H.E. badge was put on the right side.
After '86, the H.E. badge was dropped and the V-12 badge introduced, and
apparently the two switched sides, XJ-S on the right and V-12 on the left.
So, how about everyone who owns an XJ-S (and whose badges are likely to be
original) confirm the following:
Which side is the XJ-S badge on, left or right?
Did the early pre-H.E. cars ever have a V-12 badge? Was the V-12 ever a
four-piece badge, or always a one-piece?
Are the one-piece badges all mounted with little posts through holes in the
bodywork, or have later ones gone to a stick-on badge? A thin layer of
stick-on foam is usually visible if you look closely, while the post type
badges fit genuinely flush to the car.
Are there any other configurations out there?
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 09:47:27 -0700 (MST)
Subject: – The Jag-list Fund –
Larry Lee
}On 8 Mar 1996, Jan Wikstroem wrote:
}> It’s a good rule in any volunteer organisation that you don’t ever knock back a
}> volunteer. I say go for it, Nick. What are we waiting for, a vote, or general
}> acclamation? If so, let’s hear it for Nick, gang…
}
}With all of the comments so far taken into account, it’s hard to argue
}against this. I won’t. Instead, I’ll offer my gratitude to Nick.
We seem to be reaching a consensus here. Nick has volunteered to run
the Jag-lovers mail list and I agree with the others that we should let
him. He has done a great job on the Web site, giving immense amounts
of his time developing it. Coupling the mail-list with the Web site
will probably make them both stronger. We have a backup via the
british-cars team-net list in case the workload proves to be too large.
I’ve been asked to run the collection to raise the money to pay for
running the Jaguar mail list. Given the sentiments voiced last winter
about list members not wanting to be exposed to constant beg-a-thons here,
let’s consider this an extension of the WWW collection. I’ll keep it
low key and there won’t be any more fundraisers until next year at this
time. The deliverables for this fund raiser are that Nick will maintain
and run the Jaguar list for the next year.
I will run this fund in the same manner as the previous funds:
-
- Contributors names will be greatfully acknowledged, but only the fund
total will be published.
- Contributors names will be greatfully acknowledged, but only the fund
-
- As an accounting safeguard, any contributor who asks will receive a
copy of the list of individual fund contributors and the amounts.
- As an accounting safeguard, any contributor who asks will receive a
-
- You are encouraged to send pictures with your contribution and
hopefully Nick will add them to the members pictures page on the web
(it helps if you (and any signicant others) appear in the picture to
add some personality to it).
- You are encouraged to send pictures with your contribution and
-
- Please send US checks or cash only.
-
- The closing date is Mar 31, at which time I’ll send one cheque to Nick.
-
- Send Contributions to: Lawrence Buja (Jag-list fund)
525 S. 43rd St
Boulder CO 80303-6009
- Send Contributions to: Lawrence Buja (Jag-list fund)
/\ Lawrence Buja http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern/
_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
________________Boulder,Colorado___80307-3000
From: lwalden@ebmud.com (Lee Walden)
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 09:31:01 -0800
Subject: Re: A/C Problem & R134 Plan
At 22:26 1996/03/07 -0500, Tom Graham wrote:
– [ From: Tom Graham * EMC.Ver #2.3 ] –
The latest I heard was there is a new R12 direct replacement that will be
available as soon as this summer. This was from the local Chevron guy.Indeed, those of us who follow the Newsgroup “rec.autos.tech” know that a
substitute for R-12 is scheduled for sale about the end of this March.
Won’t be cheap, probably $10US per pound, but it will be a direct
replacement for R-12. It is called GHG-X4, (GHG in honor of the chemist
who’s put the formula together). So, I certainly would hold off on any R-
134 conversion. For current status on it call McMullen Oil at 1-800-669-
5730 or Monroe Air Tech at 1-800-424-3836.
Cherio - Tom
If GHG is George Gobel, check out his WEB page. He’s the guy who lights
bar-b-ques using LOX (Liquid Oxygen). Dave Berry even wrote a story about him.
From: “Martin Robert Fooks, WWIS” mfooks@postiss.netherlands.attgis.com
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 96 16:19:00 PST
Subject: XK8
What really worries me, though, is that nobody says anything about the
mechanicals. What’s under the bonnet - a Ford V8? It wouldn’t bother me,
but
why the “no comment”?
Ah the XK8 a legend in its’ own lunchtime.
I recently spoke to Suzanne Wright from Jaguar World Magazine, who told me
that when they visited the Jaguar factory earlier this week, there was only
in-fact 1 XK8 at the factory, with an engine in it and that the others are
just rolling shells for taking nice pictures of (Rather like my XJ-s from
the sounds of it!). Jaguar do not seem to have decided on what they are
really going to do in the engine department, and it seems to me that they
are throwing the car at the world to see what configurations are most in
Vogue with us at the moment.
I personally am going to recommend that they choose a Chevy V8 as the main
option, as it would save many people a great deal of time years down the
road. Just think of it, you could swap out the powerboat and not get flamed
for installing a Chevy Lump!
Martin R. Fooks
P.S. It was just a joke about the Chevy lump… Sorry Kirby!
End of jag-lovers-digest V1 #413
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jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 9 March 1996 Volume 01 : Number 414
From: JQJF14A@prodigy.com (MR JOHN W SHUCK)
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 1996 13:11:11 EST
Subject: re: XK8 Launched at Geneva Motor Show
from what I have read. the engine is a dohc version of the Mod engine
from Ford. From what I’ve heard, this is an excellent base and a
relatively inexpensive form of power. I’m sure we will see 6 and V12
versions, but wouldn’t a v6 and mod v12 version be unusual. Remember
they used the Jag 6 in fire truck and tanks so the origin and use
sometimes get obscured…it’s all in the end result. I like it…I’ll
take 2, one in a dark blue and another in white… John Shuck xk120,
e-type
From: JQJF14A@prodigy.com (MR JOHN W SHUCK)
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 1996 13:42:21 EST
Subject: re: XK8 Launched at Geneva Motor Show
check out Weems home page for the DHC shot of the new Xj8…This
will sell big time. Also check ou the shots of the restoration of
his very early E-type coupe. John shuck…xk120, e-type
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 96 10:51:29 PST
Subject: Re: Grace, space and pace…
Most of the Jaguar links I see, seem to indicate that Sir William’s
original design pledge was “Grace, Space and Pace”. Recently, however,
I noticed what appeared to be a quote, that listed it as “Grace, Pace
and Space”.
Forget about space. Perhaps other than the latest LWB, neither the XJ6
nor the XJS offer much space these days. These cars may be full size
on the outside, but they are like a compact car on the inside.
When sitting in the driver seat of my XJ40(VDP), the door map pocket
protrude from the left, the wide center console protrude from the right,
the low roof line (especially with sun roof added) almost touches my
head, and the steering wheel/trip computer panel are very close to my
knee. All in all, it’s a very tight fit, and I’m under 6 feet tall.
By the way, the trunk has a full spare; if you have a CD changer in there,
there’s not much space left to put your luggage!
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: JQJF14A@prodigy.com (MR JOHN W SHUCK)
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 1996 13:49:19 EST
Subject: Towing my jag
I need to have an xk120 Roadster, unrestored, towed from Southern
Indiana to the New York City area. I’m located in Westport Conn, 45
miles north from NYC, close to I95. The car does not have an engine,
trans, or interior and is quite light. Access is very good, but the
car is guarded. There also is an extra door and a bonnet to bring.
any takers. This could be a space available job and I am in no hurry.
If no takers, I’ll contact some of the folks in Hemmings, or repair
my 4 wheel trailer. My truck needs a trans and my 4 wheel trailer
is in fair condition. John Shuck…xk120, e-type
From: Elgsweep@aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 14:03:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Jaguar World magazine
In a message dated 96-03-08 00:08:23 EST, you write:
Here comes another newbie dumb question…what does ‘concours’ mean.
There are no dumb questions, etc…
“concours” refers to “Concours de Elegance” also know as a “car show”. JCNA
clubs used to refer to the judging classes as “concours” and “driven”. Now
they use “championship” and “driven”. The only difference is the
“championship” cars are judged with the bonnet and boot open, while in
“driven” classes they are closed. Many of the “championship” cars are daily
drivers. If a car is referred to as “concours” that means it is supposed to
be in “show” condition.
Dennis Murphy
Geneva, IL
1952 XK 120
1990 XJS
From: LLoyd 3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@cmsa.Berkeley.EDU
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 96 11:08:42 PST
Subject: Chip’s home page
Indeed! Good pictures/history of the ‘e’ on Chip Weem’s home page. I also
liked the DHC xj8. Although Chip lives on the right coast, I got a chance to me
et him here on the left coast last year. It was good to put some pictures
together with the ‘e’ he was describing to me.
LLoyd
From: BMiller142@aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 14:44:35 -0500
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest
LOOKING TO BUY 2-4 SERIES II WHEELS, NEW ENENGLAND AREA ???
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 14:10:29 -0600
Subject: Hub Caps and fasteners
My '82 XJ6 has a problem with hub caps. I have the alloy wheels with the
small hub caps that are held on by an interior metal clip. There seem to be
two kinds but they both work the same way.
On all but one of the hubcaps the interior clip has broken and is no longer
functional so I can’t put the hub caps back on and expect not to lose them.
The suppliers say I can only buy a complete hub cap. They don’t sell the
clips separately. I don’t want an entire hub cap, I only want a “clip” or
to be more precise, I only want 5 “clips”.
Does anyone have any suggestions?
Jim
===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"
John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 13:57:55 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Re: Hub Caps and fasteners
Jim writes…
{My '82 XJ6 has a problem with hub caps… On all but one of the hubcaps the
{interior clip has broken and is no longer functional
{
{Does anyone have any suggestions?
Epoxy? Actually I’m serious. Why do they need to be detatchable
from the alloy wheel? The only thing they cover is the ugly hole
in the center of the wheel and the dust cap (which you can get to
by removing the wheel).
The only thing that’s kept me from doing that is having access to $15
used hubcaps every so often when Jag Denver gets a new parts XJ6 in.
So, you might also see if your local independent Jag repair shop has
any used ones.
/\ Lawrence Buja http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern/
_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
________________Boulder,Colorado___80307-3000
From: JagMkV@aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 16:07:34 -0500
Subject: Jag Mk V Radiator
Sorry to take up the list’s time, but I apparently lost Brian Cragg’s E-mail
address and I have a question for him…
Brian…I’ll take you up on the offer of help. I took the car down to the
frame, bead blasted it and have been reassembling it. Engine and drive train
is in. Wiring harnesses have been replaced. All mechanicals are pretty well
done. This week I was refitting the front fenders to set the allignment of
the radiator and stays prior to painting the car, so that I can paint them
separately and have them go back on without a lot of adjusting and fiddling
with allignment. After I put everything on, it seems that the radiator is a
little too high, and slightly to the rear of where it ought to be. I can’t
get the hood latches to go into the holes properly, and the holes in the
fenders don’t line up with the lower holes on the radiator grille. If I
recall when putting the radiator back on, it mounted in a slotted hole, so
tonight I will try to loosen it and move it back. My real problem is with
the height. The lower mounting on my car is like this… a bolt goes
through the bracket on the radiator through a 3/4" rubber mount, through the
hole in the chassis mounting bracket, through another 3/4" rubber mount,
through a flat washer and into a locking nut. I hope this picture comes out.
||||||||| Bolt
Head
============ Flat Washer
_____________
|_____________| Rubber Mount
/===================\ Chassis Mounting plate
/ _____________ \
|____________| Rubber Mount
----------------------- Flat
Washer
||||||||||||
Locking Nut.
When I really tighten the nut tight, the rubber mounts squash to about 1/2
inch, and it seems that the radiator is about 1/2 inch too high.
Coincidence?? Could you look at yours and see if I have the mounting
configuration correct. I can find no references to it in either the shop
manual or the parts manual.
Thanks for your help. Regards
Craig
From: JQJF14A@prodigy.com (MR JOHN W SHUCK)
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 1996 16:49:13 EST
Subject: Hub Caps and fasteners
Re: holding hub caps on…
I have tried this in the past with the small hub caps. They make a
weatherstip adhesive that comes in rolls and is abouth 1/4 inch in
diameter. It is tacky and is normally used around taillights, etc.
Take a small piece and put it around the hub cap and eliminate the
clip. They usually rattle anyway. This stuff also comes in handy
for other items. It can usually be found at auto paint houses.
From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 96 14:26:00 PST
Subject: a couple of topics
Hi,
I see the topic of SIII XJ-6 fuel tanks and changeover valves has come
up. For what it’s worth, I learned how the changeover switch operates
when it failed 3 years ago:
The changeover switch on the dash has two sets of contacts - one set
which energizes the changeover valve in the boot, and one set which
connects either the left or right fuel tank sending unit to the gauge on
the dash. The set of contacts for the changeover valve failed but the
gauge set did not. Thus, the valve remained in the non-energized
position, drawing (attempting to draw) fuel from the left tank (which
was empty). The gauge, however, was reading from the right tank,
indicating full. In fact, this failure made both tanks appear full, so
I didn’t think of adding fuel to the left tank, which indicated full but
was actually empty.
I figured that since the car drove on the right tank but not the left
(fuel starvation), the left tank must be full of bad fuel, so I opened
the drain at the bottom and was suprised when only a little (dirty) fuel
came out. I suspected the valve but eventually figured out that the
problem was the switch.
I’ve seen multiple faults at a time - is it possible that you have both
a bad switch and a bad return valve (I forget how the return path
works), so that you are drawing fuel from the left tank but returning it
to the right tank, causing it to overflow?
Hope this helps.
David J. Shield
'84 XJ6 VDP
From Larry:
Can someone explain the SIII XJ-6 fuel system to me? Specificall, the
fuel flow to engien & return of excess to the tanks.
- –end–
From: IlanoS@aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 17:40:40 -0500
Subject: [none]
ver oil leak prevention discussion of interest. What is Hylosil?
Have Hylomar as is a Permatex product available thru auto supplies stores,
but Hylosil is not listed in the Permatex/Loctite catalogue. Is this a Jag
dealer item?. Would you use HyloX on the front timing cover as well? How do
you prevent timing cover oil leaks?
Thanks. Ilan Shapiro (ilanos@aol.com).
From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 96 15:41:00 PST
Subject: fuel flow in the SIII XJ-6
Hi,
I see the topic of SIII XJ-6 fuel tanks and changeover valves has come
up. For what it’s worth, I learned how the changeover switch operates
when it failed 3 years ago:
The changeover switch on the dash has two sets of contacts - one set
which energizes the changeover valve in the boot, and one set which
connects either the left or right fuel tank sending unit to the gauge
on the dash. The set of contacts for the changeover valve failed but
the gauge set did not. Thus, the valve remained in the non-energized
position, drawing (attempting to draw) fuel from the left tank (which
was empty). The gauge, however, was reading from the right tank,
indicating full. In fact, this failure made both tanks appear full,
so I didn’t think of adding fuel to the left tank, which indicated
full but was actually empty.
I figured that since the car drove on the right tank but not the left
(fuel starvation), the left tank must be full of bad fuel, so I opened
the drain at the bottom and was suprised when only a little (dirty)
fuel came out. I suspected the valve but eventually figured out that
the problem was the switch.
I’ve seen multiple faults at a time - is it possible that you have
both a bad switch and a bad return valve (I forget how the return path
works), so that you are drawing fuel from the left tank but returning
it to the right tank, causing it to overflow?
Hope this helps.
David J. Shield
'84 XJ6 VDP
From Larry:
Can someone explain the SIII XJ-6 fuel system to me? Specificall,
the fuel flow to engien & return of excess to the tanks.
–end–
From: RogerS7642@aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 18:56:52 -0500
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V1 #412
In a message dated 96-03-08 03:50:51 EST, you write:
Front end problems XJ6 s3 1984 92K miles
The upper ball joints are no problem ar all. They cost about $25.00 each.
Installation is easy, too. If you need some pointers, please send me an
E-mail. I had a similar problem, but it was nothing to do with the
suspension. Chech that the struts which connect the fenders to the fire-wall
are tight. I had a slightly loose one and I was about to rebuild the entire
front suspension until I figured out what it was.
Good luck.
From: Joe Bunik jbunik@primenet.com
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 1996 16:06:18 +0000
Subject: XJ-S Rear Hub Carriers
I am somewhat new to this list and previous subjects may
have covered this topic but I present it as a
recommendation to other owners.
I have just retrieved my 1988 XJ-S from my mechanic after
having to install 2 new rear hub carriers. Both castings
were severely cracking between the holes for the fulcrum
shaft. My mechanic has begun to find this to be a more
common problem on older XJ-S vehicles and has begun
inspecting for this cracking as part of his normal service
procedure. He knows of two vehicles which have had these
castings fracture completely!
It was a somewhat painfull repair process (~$700 per side,
with half the cost labor and half parts) but he redid the
bearings, etc. as well.
Aside from a small leak in one of the injector hoses
(another problem of age) it got a clean bill of health
(aside from the normal oil seepage which awaits a big
rebuilding to be worth addressing.
The vehicle has 73K miles and its biggest problems seem to
be those of age, new hoses, new battery, new tires, etc.
For anyone in the Orange County California area, I would
wholeheartedly recommend
British Auto Specialists
1760 Monrovia Ave, C10
Costa Mesa, CA
714-646-8802
Graham Reid is an excellent person and he has been a dream
to work with compared to my previous mechanics. Graham
could identify every scar left by previous butchers
(missing bolts, reversed brackets, incorrect setups, etc)
and has been able to put the car into top form. I don’t
think he is any less expensive unless you count the fact
that he only does the job once and correctly!
As a sidenote, I am in the process of a bottoms up
restoration of a Series 1.5 XKE roadster '68. The body tub
is currently in primer and I am slowly getting the various
mechanical bits cleaned, repainted, etc. I guess I have to
have one vehicle I can work on and one to keep
professionally repaired since I depend on the XJ-S for
semi-reliable transportation.
From: turborat@atlcom.net
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 96 18:28:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Steenkin’ badges
Kirby writes:
The question involves the badges on either side of the license plate. If I
understand it correctly, the early cars said XJ-S on the right side and the
left side was blank. The XJ-S was actually four separate badges.
After '86, the H.E. badge was dropped and the V-12 badge introduced, and
apparently the two switched sides, XJ-S on the right and V-12 on the left.
Which side is the XJ-S badge on, left or right?
My 1986 XJ-S has the "XJ-S" badge on the left (drivers) and the
“V12” on the right.
Are the one-piece badges all mounted with little posts through holes in the
bodywork, or have later ones gone to a stick-on badge? A thin layer of
stick-on foam is usually visible if you look closely, while the post type
badges fit genuinely flush to the car.
The ('86) badges appear to be one peice (plastic chrome) and
appear to be affixed to the rear with glue as nothing protrudes
inside the trunk. However, confirming this will require removal of
the badges. (not)!
Regards:
Paul
From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 20:39:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Filters and Badges
At 12:14 PM 3/8/96 -0500, Kirby Palm wrote:
On the early HE cars ('81-'86), the XJ-S was made into a one-piece badge and
moved to the left side, and an H.E. badge was put on the right side.
This is not how my '82 XJ-S HE is screwed together. The ‘HE’ tag is on
the left, and the ‘XJ-S’ is on the right. Seems original, too. But maybe
the PO visited a dyslexic body shop?
Bodges…(you know the rest)
On the K&N Filter front, I received their catalog today. They have a replacement filter for the 1976-1990 V12 XJ-S. The part number is 33-2011. Add this tidbit to your booklet! This seems the way for you (Kirby) to go, with your fancy-pants 3" stacks and cold air induction. I am leaning towards a low profile ‘open all around’ design mounted on a custom plate for several reasons. (I only opened my air horns up to 2 1/2", anyway.) Since I won’t be getting to this project for several weeks at least, why don’t you pop for the replacement style and report back on how well they work? ( :] ) BTW, the K&N catalog contains several handy formulas and guidelines for calculating the filter area, height and depth needed for optimizing custom applications. They specify a 1.5" of water (yes, water not mercury) pressure differential across the filter. I know you ran your ram air into the headlight buckets. I have wondered about reversing the cans and grabbing ram air through the bulkhead from the plenum at the base of the windshield. Usually a high pressure area. I haven’t looked closely enough at this to see how feasible it is; what are your thoughts? From: mkenrick@golder.com (Michael Kenrick) Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 18:00:19 -0800 Subject: Re[2]: Steenkin’ badges This is a Mime message, which your current mail reader may not understand. Parts of the message will appear as text. To process the remainder, you will need to use a Mime compatible mail reader. Contact your vendor for details. IMA.Boundary.378633628 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; name=“RFC822 message headers” Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Description: cc:Mail note part Received: from uniwa.uwa.edu.au by internet.golder.com with SMTP (IMA Internet Exchange 1.04b beta) id 140cddf0; Fri, 8 Mar 96 16:16:31 -0800 Received: from psy.uwa.edu.au (freud.psy.uwa.oz.au [130.95.176.3]) by uniwa.uwa.e du.au (8.6.11/8.6.9) with SMTP id IAA13426; Sat, 9 Mar 1996 08:03:33 +0800 Received: by psy.uwa.edu.au (4.1/SMI-4.1) id AA19694; Sat, 9 Mar 96 08:05:42 CST Received: from future.atlcom.net by psy.uwa.edu.au (4.1/SMI-4.1) id AA19682; Sat, 9 Mar 96 08:05:35 CST Received: from lpm2-12.atlcom.net by future.atlcom.net with SMTP (5.65/1.2-eef) id AA07402; Fri, 8 Mar 96 18:28:25 -0500 Date: Fri, 8 Mar 96 18:28:25 -0500 Message-Id: 9603082328.AA07402@future.atlcom.net X-Sender: turborat@atlcom.net X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Version 1.4.4 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=“us-ascii” To: jag-lovers@psy.uwa.edu.au From: turborat@atlcom.net Subject: Re: Steenkin’ badges Sender: owner-jag-lovers@psy.uwa.edu.au Precedence: bulk IMA.Boundary.378633628 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Description: cc:Mail note part Kirby writes: The question involves the badges on either side of the license plate. If I understand it correctly, the early cars said XJ-S on the right side and the left side was blank. The XJ-S was actually four separate badges. After '86, the H.E. badge was dropped and the V-12 badge introduced, and apparently the two switched sides, XJ-S on the right and V-12 on the left. Which side is the XJ-S badge on, left or right? My 1986 XJ-S has the “XJ-S” badge on the left (drivers) and the “V12” on the right. Are the one-piece badges all mounted with little posts through holes in the bodywork, or have later ones gone to a stick-on badge? A thin layer of stick-on foam is usually visible if you look closely, while the post type badges fit genuinely flush to the car. The ('86) badges appear to be one peice (plastic chrome) and appear to be affixed to the rear with glue as nothing protrudes inside the trunk. However, confirming this will require removal of the badges. (not)! Regards: Paul _______________________ Dittto for my 1986 XJ-S Michael Kenrick IMA.Boundary.378633628-- From: RLDesign@aol.com Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 21:36:05 -0500 Subject: Hmmmm. What to do? I’ve been looking at XJ6 series 3 cars here in Seattle, and though I like them quite a bit, I haven’t seen any examples that I thought were worth the money being asked. That got me thinking. I only drive my closed car about 3000 miles a year, maybe as many as 5000 if I take a lot of road trips in the winter months. I want to spend less than $9K. Can I get a decent driving Mk. II for that much money? I wouldn’t be looking for a show car at all, but would want something respectible-looking, fairly solid, and with a decent interior and drive train. What would called a nice “driver,” I suspect. Would I be miserable in a Mk. II as a daily car in our wet-but-not-salty winters here? Does anyone know of any such beasts for sale here in the NW? Or should I get back to the business of finding a late XJ6 I can live with? 2+2 E-type? MK. IX? Roger “Stay on Subject” Los From: RogerS7642@aol.com Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 23:18:30 -0500 Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V1 #413 Front end problems XJ6 s3 1984 92K miles The upper ball joints are no problem ar all. They cost about $25.00 each. Installation is easy, too. If you need some pointers, please send me an E-mail. I had a similar problem, but it was nothing to do with the suspension. Check that the struts which connect the fenders to the fire-wall are tight. I had a slightly loose one and I was about to rebuild the entire front suspension until I figured out what it was. Good luck. Rogers7642@aol.com From: “J.W. Beckmeyer” 73131.3076@compuserve.com Date: 09 Mar 96 07:51:04 EST Subject: – The Jag-list Fund – I will run this fund in the same manner as the previous funds: Lawrence, Sounds like a plan… Pending no more discussion, I’ll have a check out to you on Monday. Best regards, Jim Beckmeyer Union CIty, MI USA e-mail: 73131.3076@compuserve.com 90 Jaguar XJ-40-Sovereign 60 Jaguar MK II From: “Sleeman, Chris (Exchange)” ChrisSl@mel.praxa.com.au Date: Sat, 09 Mar 1996 22:04:36 +1000 Subject: Melbourne International Motor Show All, My wife and I attended the above show last week with great anticipation. Would Jaguar have a few nice XJSs, a '220 or some nice Daimlers on display? We worked our way through the doors and headed straight for the stand… Doh! All they had were an XJR, a sovereign and an XJ6 sport. None of them even had the bonnet up. Pretty disappointing. I walked straight up to the counter and asked “Where are the Daimlers?”. The sales girl looked a bit guilty, and said that there were none in Australia, and that they were only available on special order. What am I going to drive in ten years? If there are no new Daimlers around now, I won’t be able to wait for them to depreciate to my kind of purchase price! Oh well, I’ll just have to settle for the 4.0 Litre supercharged model. Regards, Chris Sleeman chrissl@praxa.com.au End of jag-lovers-digest V1 #414 ******************************** Return-Path: owner-jag-lovers@psy.uwa.edu.au Received: from uniwa.uwa.edu.au (root@uniwa.uwa.edu.au [130.95.128.1]) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.6.12/on1) with ESMTP id ; Sat, 9 Mar 1996 22:32:30 +0100 Received: from psy.uwa.edu.au (freud.psy.uwa.oz.au [130.95.176.3]) by uniwa.uwa.edu.au (8.6.11/8.6.9) with SMTP id FAA07653; Sun, 10 Mar 1996 05:31:45 +0800 Received: by psy.uwa.edu.au (4.1/SMI-4.1) id AA24419; Sun, 10 Mar 96 05:32:12 CST Received: from mailout1.h1.usa.pipeline.com (data1.h1.usa.pipeline.com) by psy.uwa.edu.au (4.1/SMI-4.1) id AA24410; Sun, 10 Mar 96 05:31:24 CST Received: from pipe12.h1.usa.pipeline.com by mailout1.h1.usa.pipeline.com (8.6.9/2.1-PSINet/Pipeline) id VAA14192; Sat, 9 Mar 1996 21:28:51 GMT Received: by pipe12.h1.usa.pipeline.com (8.6.12/SMI-5.4-PSI) id VAA27935; Sat, 9 Mar 1996 21:28:39 GMT Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 21:28:39 GMT Message-Id: 199603092128.VAA27935@pipe12.h1.usa.pipeline.com To: JQJF14A@prodigy.com Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V1 #414 From: blackmx5@usa.pipeline.com (Lawrence Karpman) Cc: jag-lovers-digest@psy.uwa.edu.au, jag-lovers@psy.uwa.edu.au X-Pipeuser: blackmx5 X-Pipehub: usa.pipeline.com X-Pipegcos: (Lawrence Karpman) X-Mailer: Pipeline v3.5.0 Sender: owner-jag-lovers@psy.uwa.edu.au Precedence: bulk X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest John: I have some spares that I replaced with new that you may have for postage, if they are from the same type wheels. Mine are the aluminum alloys with the black painted vanes with silver paint on the rest… E-mail your address to me if you want them. Larry Karpman '85 XJ-6 Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-dig Received: from uniwa.uwa.edu.au (root@uniwa.uwa.edu.au [130.95.128.1]) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.6.12/on1) with ESMTP id for nick@sn.no; Sun, 10 Mar 1996 21:20:02 +0100 From: @owner-jag-lovers-dig Received: from psy.uwa.edu.au (freud.psy.uwa.oz.au [130.95.176.3]) by uniwa.uwa.edu.au (8.6.11/8.6.9) with SMTP id EAA27651; Mon, 11 Mar 1996 04:09:39 +0800 Received: by psy.uwa.edu.au (4.1/SMI-4.1) id AA27731; Mon, 11 Mar 96 04:06:27 CST Date: Mon, 11 Mar 96 04:06:27 CST Message-Id: 9603101836.AA27731@psy.uwa.edu.au Errors-To: pcnet@psy.uwa.edu.au To: jag-lovers-digest@psy.uwa.edu.au Subject: jag-lovers-digest V1 #415 Reply-To: jag-lovers@psy.uwa.edu.au Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-dig Precedence: bulk X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest jag-lovers-digest Monday, 11 March 1996 Volume 01 : Number 415 From: “Sleeman, Chris (Exchange)” ChrisSl@mel.praxa.com.au Date: Sat, 09 Mar 1996 21:38:06 +1000 Subject: E-Types Greetings everyone, My wife borrowed a book from the library the other day about E-Types. Being a sensitive new age guy (NOT!) I realised that the not quite so subtle hint behind this is that she wants one. Needless to say, I didn’t fight too hard with her. I remember reading somewhere that I don’t have to pay as much import tax here (in Australia) if the car I bring in is older than 30 years. My mind started ticking, and I am starting to think that it might be feasible… The point of all this is… What prices do early (pre 1966) E-Types go for in the US and England? I would be looking for a sound, complete car that wouldn’t be too hard to spruce up over the years. Something that is drivable or close to it, and not full of rust, or missing expensive components. Does anyone know how much it would cost to convert from LHD to RHD in Australia? I don’t think I’ll be buying immediately, but if I can start the dream now, who knows what will happen? If anyone can help with price guidelines, please e-mail me direct. I’ll post a summary to the list. Regards, Chris Sleeman chrissl@praxa.com.au '76 Daimler Double Six (That kids keep letting the tyres down on ) '72 Mazda RX3, 13B Peripheral port (Blown apex seal, and 3500kms away ) '80 Holden Gemini (Rear end collision damage ) 7.5 months pregnant wife (With the twinkle of a shiny E-type in her mind’s eye) From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli) Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 10:17:48 -0500 Subject: XJ-S Book Thanks for including my humble contributions in your XJ-S book. I see that you are considering reformatting it to text and tif files. Question: Will that prevent it from being printed as a book? One of the strong points is that you can run it off as a nice printed document. For example, I take a lot of long trips in my XJ-S to unfriendly places. My survival kit includes the requisite tools and replacements as well as the Jag manual, Parts manual, Wiring manual and your book (three hole punched in a looseleaf binder)! Even if I’m in the driveway poking around, the book is right there with me. IMHO, if the book becomes primarily an on-line resource, you will make it less useful for those of us with disintegrating English rubber under our fingernails… BTW, is WordPerfect the problem? (I use Word, and have not had any problems converting the document. Even the color graphics come across perfectly.) I see that someone suggested HTML, which is great for on-line access, but will undoubtedley make it very dificult to print off the entire ‘book’. Since you are not planning on maintaining two versions, I vote for something that can easily be printed as a cohesive document. Regards, John From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 11:33:34 -0500 Subject: Re: XJ-S Rear Hub Carriers I have just retrieved my 1988 XJ-S from my mechanic after having to install 2 new rear hub carriers. Both castings were severely cracking between the holes for the fulcrum shaft. My mechanic has begun to find this to be a more common problem on older XJ-S vehicles and has begun inspecting for this cracking as part of his normal service procedure. He knows of two vehicles which have had these castings fracture completely! Isn’t this part essentially the same design that has been used on Jags since the 60’s? If so, why are we first hearing about it now? And wouldn’t it apply to XJ6’s and XJ12’s as well as XJ-S’s? Also, what does “between the holes for the fulcrum shaft” mean? A little more detail on the crack location is in order. Has anyone else had this problem? Michael Neal, where are you? Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | – Palm’s Postulate From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 10:10:32 -0800 Subject: CFC’s, general frustration (minimal Jag content) What really ticks me off is that while CFC’s are now illegal, I have a '92 Ford Aerostar that goes through about 2 pounds of the stuff a year because of the crummy quick assembly joints used throughout the system. Compared to my XJ-6, which has not required any freon in 4 years (other than when the expansion valve failed), and I can’t help but wonder how much of the regulatory efforts are misguided. It seems like many really effective products (solvents for electronics, freon, etc) are banned, but a “properly sealed” “closed” system, such as my Ford, uses more of the stuff in a year than a responsibly designed product would use in its entire service life. Boy, do I HATE bad design!!! OK, so I had a rough week! Regards, Hunt From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 10:10:39 -0800 Subject: Re: OC Area service experiences Joe- Hi, and welcome! I haven’t used Grahm, but my mom did many years ago. Who else have you used locally and what have your experiences been? My dad has used Dr. Jaguar in Newport, and I’ve use Performance Jag. in CM a fair amount. I sure don’t want to invite libelous dialog, but am curious. Best regards, Hunt At 04:06 PM 3/8/96 +0000, Joe Bunik wrote:
I am somewhat new to this list and previous subjects may
have covered this topic but I present it as a
recommendation to other owners…For anyone in the Orange County California area, I would
wholeheartedly recommendBritish Auto Specialists
1760 Monrovia Ave, C10
Costa Mesa, CA
714-646-8802Graham Reid is an excellent person and he has been a dream
to work with compared to my previous mechanics. Graham
could identify every scar left by previous butchers
(missing bolts, reversed brackets, incorrect setups, etc)
and has been able to put the car into top form. I don’t
think he is any less expensive unless you count the fact
that he only does the job once and correctly!
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 10:10:35 -0800
Subject: Re: Hub Caps and fasteners
Jim-
I just replaced two of mine, as they mysteriously vanished following a set
of new tires (something to check yourself after service work!). They were
only about $15US each from Terrys Jaguar, but you also have to buy the badge
that goes in the center, and gluing them on is your problem too (so about
$19.00 ea plus a dab of RTV). The clips are spot welded into the caps under
the badge, so might be a bit tricky to fix!
Hunt
At 02:10 PM 3/8/96 -0600, Jim Isbell wrote:
My '82 XJ6 has a problem with hub caps. I have the alloy wheels with the
small hub caps that are held on by an interior metal clip. There seem to be
two kinds but they both work the same way.On all but one of the hubcaps the interior clip has broken and is no longer functional so I can’t put the hub caps back on and expect not to lose them. The suppliers say I can only buy a complete hub cap. They don’t sell the clips separately. I don’t want an entire hub cap, I only want a “clip” or to be more precise, I only want 5 “clips”. Does anyone have any suggestions? Jim =================================================== " Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!" John Wayne P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet. =================================================== From: jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk (Stefan Schulz) Date: Sat, 09 Mar 1996 18:23:23 GMT Subject: Re: Badges on rear of XJ-S In message 199603081714.AA12894@gcn.scri.fsu.edu Kirby Palm writes: Which side is the XJ-S badge on, left or right? XJ-S badge on left, V12 badge on right. Are the one-piece badges all mounted with little posts through holes in the bodywork, or have later ones gone to a stick-on badge? A thin layer of stick-on foam is usually visible if you look closely, while the post type badges fit genuinely flush to the car. Mine are one-piece stick-on badges. '88 XJ-S V12 UK spec (Is it just possible that the ‘XJ-S’ and ‘V12’ badges are mounted the opposite way for LHD cars ? I mean, they swap the steering wheel to the other side for you yanks, too
Joe-
Hi, and welcome! I haven’t used Grahm, but my mom did many years ago. Who
else have you used locally and what have your experiences been? My dad has
used Dr. Jaguar in Newport, and I’ve use Performance Jag. in CM a fair
amount. I sure don’t want to invite libelous dialog, but am curious.
Best regards,
HuntAt 04:06 PM 3/8/96 +0000, Joe Bunik wrote:
I am somewhat new to this list and previous subjects may
have covered this topic but I present it as a
recommendation to other owners…For anyone in the Orange County California area, I would
wholeheartedly recommendBritish Auto Specialists
1760 Monrovia Ave, C10
Costa Mesa, CA
714-646-8802Graham Reid is an excellent person and he has been a dream
to work with compared to my previous mechanics. Graham
could identify every scar left by previous butchers
(missing bolts, reversed brackets, incorrect setups, etc)
and has been able to put the car into top form. I don’t
think he is any less expensive unless you count the fact
that he only does the job once and correctly!
From: Joe Bunik jbunik@primenet.com
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 1996 16:37:59 +0000
Subject: Re: XJ-S Rear Hub Carriers
Going by my Aug 87 XJ-S Parts Catalog, diagram 1F 06L, Group E, Rear Suspension
-
- hub and hub carriers :
The cracking was occurring horizontally between the casting webs which are
lightly drawn as extending from the opening for the fulcrum shaft and ~60
degrees vertical toward the opening for the outside bearings. Another way to
visualize it is as running horizontally between the webs and parallel to and
just above the casting radius for the fulcrum shaft which extends across the
hub carrier and below the casting projection for the outside bearings. The
cracks ran almost from casting web to casting web ~4-5 inches and were varying
in width from hairline to being able to insert a piece of paper.
My comments on the relative frequency of the problem are only repeated from the
mechanic and owner. I certainly know that if you aren’t looking for the cracks
they would be easy to miss since they are not in an especially visible portion
of the hub carrier and are somewhat hidden by the radius on the casting for the
fulcrum shaft.
Joe Bunik wrote:
I have just retrieved my 1988 XJ-S from my mechanic after
having to install 2 new rear hub carriers. Both castings
were severely cracking between the holes for the fulcrum
shaft. My mechanic has begun to find this to be a more
common problem on older XJ-S vehicles and has begun
inspecting for this cracking as part of his normal service
procedure. He knows of two vehicles which have had these
castings fracture completely!
Kirby Palm wrote:
Isn’t this part essentially the same design that has been used on Jags since
the 60’s? If so, why are we first hearing about it now? And wouldn’t it
apply to XJ6’s and XJ12’s as well as XJ-S’s?Also, what does “between the holes for the fulcrum shaft” mean? A little
more detail on the crack location is in order.
From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 19:43:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Badges on rear of XJ-S
(Is it just possible that the ‘XJ-S’ and ‘V12’ badges are mounted the
opposite way for LHD cars ? I mean, they swap the steering wheel to the
other side for you yanks, too
Aha! That explains the 21-V and EH bodges on my car!
Regards,
John
From: MOWOG67@aol.com
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 19:48:31 -0500
Subject: E-type Charging Headache!
My 69 Etype alternator crapped out! I got a reman from Terry’s. Had it
checked before I installed it. It worked. I installed it, and it doesnt
work. So, I checked everything, and I mean everything I could think of,
nothing looked wrong. I bought a new voltage reg even though my old one
checked ok. I got a new Lucas relay. I checked the battery, it was good.
Still NOTHING!!! Any ideas???
Thanks in advance,
Jeff
71MGB
67MGB GT
69 XKE
From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 22:30:29 -0500
Subject: Re: E-type Charging Headache!
At 07:48 PM 3/9/96 -0500, MOWOG67@aol.com wrote:
My 69 Etype alternator crapped out! I got a reman from Terry’s. Had it
checked before I installed it. It worked. I installed it, and it doesnt
work. So, I checked everything, and I mean everything I could think of,
nothing looked wrong. I bought a new voltage reg even though my old one
checked ok. I got a new Lucas relay. I checked the battery, it was good.
Still NOTHING!!! Any ideas???
Bad stator connection? (will drop 2 phases - may give impression alternator
is working because voltage will be high on test bench under no load - but
only 1/3 current capacity) - resolder.
Regards,
John
From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 1996 23:09:36 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ-S Rear Hub Carriers
At 04:37 PM 3/9/96 +0000, Joe Bunik wrote:
The cracking was occurring horizontally between the casting webs which are
lightly drawn as extending from the opening for the fulcrum shaft and ~60
degrees vertical toward the opening for the outside bearings. Another way to
visualize it is as running horizontally between the webs and parallel to and
just above the casting radius for the fulcrum shaft which extends across the
hub carrier and below the casting projection for the outside bearings. The
cracks ran almost from casting web to casting web ~4-5 inches and were varying
in width from hairline to being able to insert a piece of paper.
Joe:
Were the cracks visible with the wheel pulled? Or did they appear on the
back (inside)?
Kirby:
What would cause these cracks? And shouldn’t they be weldable?
Regards,
John
From: Joe Bunik jbunik@primenet.com
Date: Sat, 09 Mar 1996 20:46:27 +0000
Subject: Re: XJ-S Rear Hub Carriers
The cracks were visible with the wheel off. They were visible as
hairline cracks on the back but barely visible.
I don’t know if the hub carrier is of a weldable alloy. I don’t think
that I would have wanted these particular hub carriers anyway since I
would be concerned about the potential for cracks to extend into the
fulcrum shaft portions of the casting. I can imagine a significant
amount of stress in that area and I don’t know if welding would correct
this. I would not want to experience a catastrophic failure!
John G. Napoli wrote:
At 04:37 PM 3/9/96 +0000, Joe Bunik wrote:
The cracking was occurring horizontally between the casting webs which are
lightly drawn as extending from the opening for the fulcrum shaft and ~60
degrees vertical toward the opening for the outside bearings. Another way to
visualize it is as running horizontally between the webs and parallel to and
just above the casting radius for the fulcrum shaft which extends across the
hub carrier and below the casting projection for the outside bearings. The
cracks ran almost from casting web to casting web ~4-5 inches and were varying
in width from hairline to being able to insert a piece of paper.Joe:
Were the cracks visible with the wheel pulled? Or did they appear on the
back (inside)?Kirby:
What would cause these cracks? And shouldn’t they be weldable?
Regards,
John
From: “Kirbert” Kirbert@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 11:47:26 +0000
Subject: Re: XJ-S Rear Hub Carriers
The cracks were visible with the wheel off. They were visible as
hairline cracks on the back but barely visible.
I think I may be getting the idea. The crack is not in the section
surrounding the fulcrum shaft itself, but rather in the flat plate
area above and outward of it. If you could cut through the casting
here, the cut surface would be shaped like a U, and this crack is
along the bottom of the U, parallel to the fulcrum shaft. Correct?
– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate
From: “Kirbert” Kirbert@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 11:47:26 +0000
Subject: Re: XJ-S Rear Hub Carriers
The cracking was occurring horizontally between the casting webs which are
lightly drawn as extending from the opening for the fulcrum shaft and ~60
degrees vertical toward the opening for the outside bearings.
Kirby:
What would cause these cracks?
It may be that I don’t fully understand the location yet, but it sure
doesn’t sound like a location where stress cracks would form. Might
even convince me they are the result of casting flaws.
And shouldn’t they be weldable?
Hey, anything is weldable if you’ve got a really good welder around.
If this thing breaks, you’re gonna be 3-wheeling. Trust your own
judgement; the original part is showing problems, but can you get a
weld job that is better?
– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate
From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 11:58:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Jaguar World magazine
John Shuck writes:
JS> this is published by Paul Skelleter I believe. Great magazine, but
JS> pricey. I haven’t seen EJAG magazine recently. Anybody seen it,
JS> still published? Get Hemmings also…
I’ve seen EJAG fairly recently. They don’t have anything in color anymore &
it seems to have dropped a bit in quality generally. It certainly isn’t in
the same class as Jaguar World in either price or quality.
I heartily endorse the sentiment about Hemmings. Even though it’s available
at my local library, I’m considering starting up a subscription again.
-Steve A.
From: jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk (Stefan Schulz)
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 14:57:00 GMT
Subject: Re: XJ-S Book
In message 199603091517.KAA18387@linet01.li.net jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli) writes:
BTW, is WordPerfect the problem? (I use Word, and have not had any problems
converting the document. Even the color graphics come across perfectly.) I
see that someone suggested HTML, which is great for on-line access, but will
undoubtedley make it very dificult to print off the entire ‘book’. Since
you are not planning on maintaining two versions, I vote for something that
can easily be printed as a cohesive document.
Chaps and chapesses,
With this being an internet mailing list there should be no problem offering
a ‘conversion service’ between different document formats. I herewith
volunteer to take Kirby’s WordPerfect version, turn it into whatever formats
Word6.0 supports, and post it back to an FTP or HTTP site of the list’s choice.
Even if Kirby doesn’t have the tools or the time to produce a specific file
format, between hundreds of us there’ll always be one who can do it.
Regards,
Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
From: Joe Bunik jbunik@primenet.com
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 10:19:41 +0000
Subject: Re: XJ-S Rear Hub Carriers
You’ve got it. It is the flat area just above but not including the
fulcrum shaft portion and running horizontally/parallel to the fulcrum
shaft. This looks like the thinnest portion of the hub carrier casting
in that area. The cracks didn’t look like original casting flaws but
more like metal which has been flexing and starting the fracture
process.
Kirbert wrote:
I think I may be getting the idea. The crack is not in the section
surrounding the fulcrum shaft itself, but rather in the flat plate
area above and outward of it. If you could cut through the casting
here, the cut surface would be shaped like a U, and this crack is
along the bottom of the U, parallel to the fulcrum shaft. Correct?
From: Brian Craggs aa080@sfn.saskatoon.sk.ca
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 14:01:02 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Jag Mk V Radiator
Hi Craig,
I will check as soon as I can and get back to you.
My email address is
Brian
Brian Craggs aa080@sfn.saskatoon.sk.ca
Saskatoon
Saskatchewan Canada
On Fri, 8 Mar 1996 JagMkV@aol.com wrote:
Sorry to take up the list’s time, but I apparently lost Brian Cragg’s E-mail
address and I have a question for him…Brian…I’ll take you up on the offer of help. I took the car down to the
frame, bead blasted it and have been reassembling it. Engine and drive train
is in. Wiring harnesses have been replaced. All mechanicals are pretty well
done. This week I was refitting the front fenders to set the allignment of
the radiator and stays prior to painting the car, so that I can paint them
separately and have them go back on without a lot of adjusting and fiddling
with allignment. After I put everything on, it seems that the radiator is a
little too high, and slightly to the rear of where it ought to be. I can’t
get the hood latches to go into the holes properly, and the holes in the
fenders don’t line up with the lower holes on the radiator grille. If I
recall when putting the radiator back on, it mounted in a slotted hole, so
tonight I will try to loosen it and move it back. My real problem is with
the height. The lower mounting on my car is like this… a bolt goes
through the bracket on the radiator through a 3/4" rubber mount, through the
hole in the chassis mounting bracket, through another 3/4" rubber mount,
through a flat washer and into a locking nut. I hope this picture comes out.||||||||| BoltHead
============ Flat Washer
_____________
|_____________| Rubber Mount/===================\ Chassis Mounting plate / _____________ \ |____________| Rubber Mount ----------------------- FlatWasher
||||||||||||
Locking Nut.When I really tighten the nut tight, the rubber mounts squash to about 1/2
inch, and it seems that the radiator is about 1/2 inch too high.
Coincidence?? Could you look at yours and see if I have the mounting
configuration correct. I can find no references to it in either the shop
manual or the parts manual.Thanks for your help. Regards
Craig
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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 12 March 1996 Volume 01 : Number 416
From: dparnell@shlci.ca
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 96 14:23:29 -0700
Subject: XJ40 Driver seat
A question for those of you that have any dealings with the driver side seat in
a 1987 XJ40. I have noticed that this seat has become loose (ie you can rock it
around) compared to the passenger side which is solid. I am sure that this is
due to the constant use on the driver side, this would explain the difference.
As this is an electric drive adjusted seat does anyone know if there is an
adjustment to take out the slack in the seat movement.
Thanking you all in advance for any advice.
Have a great day!!!
Derek dparnell@shlci.ca
1987 XJ40 Sovereign
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 11 Mar 96 10:47:46
Subject: Re: XK8 Launched at Geneva Motor Show
I caught a video snippet of the unveiling which rotated to a 3/4 front view,
displaying those buck teeth to full effect. Now who on earth would graft a
rabbit’s mouth into the face of a cat. Incidentally, that snippet wasn’t being
shown (prime time TV) to delight us Jag enthusiasts, but as a shocking example
of wasteful, polluting toys of the rich. Ahh, impartial journalism - how I miss
it!
-
- Jan
From: “Jon A. Perlman, M.D.” jonap@ucla.edu
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 17:44:49 -0800
Subject: 92 V12 performance/mileage
I’m new to this mailing list although have owned several English cars over
the years (67 e-type, 67 AH BJ8, 61 SC II drophead,etc…).
I’m currently enjoying my 92 XJS convertible except would like to either
have the performance of a five litre commensurate with the lousy gas mileage
(about 11-12 combined), or the gas mileage commensurate with the mediocre
acceleration.
I’m interested in finding any info re computer chip replacement, ignition
modification or any ideas to enhance either gas mileage or performance or
both that would be reasonably priced and practical.
Thanks for any suggestions. Otherwise the car is by far the best of all the
convertibles that I’ve owned.
Jon A Perlman jonap@ucla.edu
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 11 Mar 96 13:44:54
Subject: Ignition fault and cure: V12 cautionary tale
Hi, gang,
here’s an experience that might be useful to someone:
My recently purchased '77 XJC, which has not yet had as much done to it as I
would like to have had time for (tricky bit of grammar, there, eh) had the
strange habit of occasionally pinging during start-up. Checking the ignition
timing, it turned out to be 24deg BTDC @ 500 rpm, which certainly explained
that (Australian pre-HE models are supposed to have 4 deg ATDC with vacuum
retard operating). Thinking unkind thoughts about the PO and/or his mechanic, I
checked the timing adjustment, which was already as low as it would get. Here,
I jumped to the conclusion that the distributor had been reinstalled a couple
of teeth adrift and started dismantling the jolly thing.
Well, it turned out that I was only half right: it was indeed one tooth adrift,
but the main trouble was that the centrifugal advance mechanism was stuck on
full advance. This should come as no surprise; it’s designed to receive a drop
of oil (thinks: is that a metric or imperial drop?) through the top of the
spindle at every oil change. This is exactly the sort of job that gets skipped
by a lot of mechanics, because it involves disconnecting and connecting 13 HT
leads (in the right order, thank you), unscrewing the vast distributor cap and
maneouvring it out and in through a jungle of pipes and hoses, plus pulling off
the firmly stuck rotor arm and doing the oil can thing.
Here’s a test for conscientious mechanics: there’s a felt pad in the top of the
spindle to hold the oil. Put in a new one, have the car serviced and check if
it’s still dry…
Anyway, how to unstick the centrifugal advance? Properly, the distributor
should be dismantled, which involves removing the Hall effect switch for the
injection (on pre-HE models) and taking out a circlip, a washer and the large
rotor with 12 ferrite bits on it. The Hall effect switch is held with four very
thin plastic screws, which stick to the steel; on my own experience of three
distributors, you can expect to get two out intact. If you’re very careful.
Getting that plastic timing disk off is a lot worse. Its hub is about an inch
long (estimated; I’ve never seen an intact one) and all beneath the disk. It’s
a tight fit on the spindle and in its keyway. And the disk, which is all you
have to apply force to, is about 3/16 in thick near the hub. You’d better not
apply a lot of force, right?
On an old car like mine, the only way to get the disk out would be by breaking it up, which is no joke at 116 Ozbucks a throw. If anyone knows a chemical or method that will do the job, please tell me! As a desperate resort, I pulled out the (dry) felt plug, slackened the retaining screw and filled the spindle to the top with penetrating oil. I let it sit for two days, then exercised that mechanism furiously for the better part of half an hour. I was lucky; it worked loose and is operating correctly again (turns smoothly, snaps back). As grandmother used to say, I’d rather be lucky than good… Needless to say, the corrected ignition timing made a big difference to general performance! Regards, Jan ** 24 Hours In A Day, 24 Beers In A Case. Coincidence? I don’t think so. ** From: Brian Craggs aa080@sfn.saskatoon.sk.ca Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 21:16:40 -0600 (CST) Subject: Radiator Hi Craig, Well I managed to find the Jag. Suprising how much one can pile up on a 3.5 litre bonnet. The radiator bottom mounting on mine is Bolt from the top large washer radiator bottom flange large rubber spacer chassis member small washer nut The rubber spacer is compressed to aprox 7/16 inch ( this was very accurately measured by forcing a soft piece of wood into the gap next to the washer and measuring the new thickness of the wood ). I have a copy of Jaguar Autobook One, which covers the 46-48 Jaguars. It has a different mounting arrangement, two mounting points - one on each side, but the manual does state " When fitting ensure that rubber distance pads are in position on radiator mounting studs and tighten the nuts until the rubbers are just nipped. " I have a feeling that there should be another rubber washer on mine. The radiator grill has been replaced with a steel grid that doesn’t exactly do anything for the car at all. Did you measure the length of the stays before they were removed. I was looking at mine and they could be set by offering up the side panel (above wings and below hood) as a distance guage. I have never been able to find a shop manual for the MkV, which is why I use the Autobook One. (The engine seems to be very similar, much of the chassis is too.) Hope this is of help to you. Brian Brian Craggs aa080@sfn.saskatoon.sk.ca Saskatoon 0000Saskatchewan Canada _______________________________________________________ From: rjs2v@uva.pcmail.virginia.edu Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 22:24:56 -0500 Subject: Arizona and XKs We have been thinking about retiring to Az, but I just read an ad for a car whcih said that it “meet Az’s stirct emmissions control laws.” I would not have guessed that Az had strict emmisions controls, in that the air is so great, and there is so much space. Is there a problem getting permission to run a naturallt configured XK? I have an XK 150 which runs fine, but it is after all a 1959 automobile. Ialos own an 85 XJ6 with its emmiiosn stuff intact, and so it would be ok? But I’d hate to leave the XK back east. Bob Sack 59 XK 150 DHC 85 XJ6 Robert J. Sack phone 804 924 4814 fax 804 924 4859 From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli) Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 22:48:10 -0500 Subject: Re: XJ-S Rear Hub Carriers At 10:19 AM 3/10/96 +0000, Joe Bunik wrote:
The cracks didn’t look like original casting flaws but
more like metal which has been flexing and starting the fracture
process.
Now why would they do that? Some weird geometry going on here? Way-wild
wheel offsets? Seized lower outer pivot bearings?
Regards,
John
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 1996 20:42:36 -0800
Subject: E-Type Choke cable location…
Hi!
There are no stupid questions, right?
Can someone please describe the correct location for the choke cable to
come through the firewall in a S-I (early '62) E FHC? The PO of mine did
something really ugly to mine, so I don’t have a clue!
Thanks!
Hunt
From: “ALFIE::MRGATE::"A1::FELTS1"”@id1.atc.alcoa.com
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 7:52:18 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: jag-lovers-digest V1 #414
From: NAME: Tom L. Felts
FUNC: SFTY (38)
TEL: 412-337-2024 <FELTS1@A1@ALFIE>
To: NAME: VMSMail User SMTP%"jag-lovers <SMTP%“jag-lovers@psy.uwa.edu.au”@MRGATE>
Re: Time to get ready------- If you have nothing planned for 20 - 23
July, might give Pittsburgh, Pa a try! This is when the Pittsburgh Vintage
Grand Prix is held, along with a HUGE number of british cars at British Car
Day show with other marque’s parked in different locations.
This year, the Marque of the Year is the Jaguar–in all forms!
As a part of the marque, the Jags get special parking near the finish line,
and are allowed two laps–at “normal” speed around the track prior to the
race on Sunday.
On race day there is special “patron parking” (at a fee for the charities),
and these folks have many tail gate parties.
Great weekend–lots of brit cars, chatter, ect., and the race “ain’t” bad
either!
Tom Felts
From: “Himes,John W.” jwh@dw.att.com
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 96 20:42:00 PST
Subject: Badges
Kirby, on my 88 XJ-S the XJ-S badge is on the drivers side and the V12 is on
the passengers side. This is a US car. They both are 1 piece plastic
chromed on the face.
I would hate to see you change your book layout to ASCII & tiff images.
Most modern word processors can convert from one format to another. I use
Word for Windows, pulls it in no problem. I know someone else who used Word
for DOS, no problem.
It is nice that the images are color also. I have a color printer, paid
less then $500 for it. Makes differentiating different pieces much easier
then black and white. ( Also customized the colors of the car to match mine
:-,) )
Do you really have lots of complaints that people can not use it or just
venting?
HTML would be OK if you only wanted to view it on-line as someone suggested.
Not much help in the garage though. Would be a real pain to upkeep a
document of that size. Worse then maintaining this list, most likely!
John Himes
88 XJ-S 91K Miles
From: Elgsweep@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 09:16:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Badges on rear of XJ-S
In a message dated 96-03-08 12:22:03 EST, you write:
Which side is the XJ-S badge on, left or right?
Kirby,
Good luck figuring this one out! I can give you two cars from personal
experience and a couple of others from pictures:
My '85 HE (LHD): XJ-S on left, HE on right. As I recall, these were seperate
pieces mounted on posts.
My '90 (LHD): Gold XJ-S on left, Rouge Collection badge on right. Yes, the
gold XJ-S is factory installed. Both badges are one piece, stick ons.
I flipped through some books, not a lot of rear view pictures, but I found
the following:
'76 LHD, XJ-S on right, nothing on left.
'81 RHD, XJ-S on right, HE on left
'83 RHD Cabriolet, XJ-SC on left, 3.8 on right
Unknown year, early LHD, with UK plate, XJ-S on right
Unknown year, early RHD, 6 cyl, XJ-S on left
I will be interested to hear if you can establish any rational pattern from
your replys!
Dennis Murphy
Geneva, IL
1952 XK120
1990 XJ-S
From: Elgsweep@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 09:15:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Grace, space and pace…
Bill Frenchu asked…
Most of the Jaguar links I see, seem to indicate that Sir William’s
original design pledge was “Grace, Space and Pace”. Recently, however,
I noticed what appeared to be a quote, that listed it as “Grace, Pace
and Space”. Any idea which is historically correct?
The only reference I could find in my books was in Chris Harvey’s “Jaguar”,
Pg. 28:
“The advertising men who launched the Mk VII had no trouble backing up their
claim that it had unparalled Grace, Space and Pace.”
So theres a vote for GPS, going back to at least the launch of the Mk VII.
Dennis Murphy
Geneva, IL
1952 XK120
1990 XJS
From: “White, Dick” white@msgate.ColumbiaSC.ATTGIS.COM
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 96 09:38:00 edt
Subject: RE: Arizona and XKs
Bob,
If you have to leave it back east, I’ll be glad to take care of it for you.
We don’t have any emission laws in South Carolina.
Regards,
Dick White
Columbia, SC
'64 3.8 S-Type
'58 XK 150 FHC
From: rjs2v
To: jag-lovers
Subject: Arizona and XKs
Date: Sunday, March 10, 1996 10:24PMWe have been thinking about retiring to Az, but I just read an ad
for a car whcih said that it “meet Az’s stirct emmissions
control laws.” I would not have guessed that Az had strict
emmisions controls, in that the air is so great, and there is so
much space. Is there a problem getting permission to run a
naturallt configured XK? I have an XK 150 which runs fine, but
it is after all a 1959 automobile. Ialos own an 85 XJ6 with its
emmiiosn stuff intact, and so it would be ok? But I’d hate to
leave the XK back east.Bob Sack
59 XK 150 DHC
85 XJ6Robert J. Sack
phone 804 924 4814
fax 804 924 4859
From: JagMkV@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 09:50:57 -0500
Subject: Mark V Radiator
Brian…Many thanks for looking at your car. I’m surprised that you only
have one rubber spacer. Mine definitely had two. So I checked the parts
manual (plate DZ), and it shows two spacers as well. It shows the bolt
(NB.143/17D) going through the flat washer (194) going through one rubber
spacer (c.2144) through the chassis bracket, then through a second spacer
followed by a washer and the nut. So it appears that mine is in the proper
configuration. My rubber spacers are about 3/4 inch thick. If I really
tighten the bolt, I might be able to getit down to the 7/16 inch that yours
has. The difference, 5/16 inch might lower the radiator enough.
When I put it back together, I used the side panels as a distance guage
like you suggested, I got the stays perfectly alligned so the side panesl fit
correctly, and even screwed them in. To double check, I then installed the
bonnet. It fit the distance perfectly from radiator to scuttle. The problem
was that I couldn’t latch it. The front lock went into the hole in the
bonnet and “sort of” fit, but not well. The rear latch was about 3/16th inch
too short and would not latch at all, indicating that the front of the bonnet
was too high, thus the radiator was too high. Also, the side panels, while
fitting well front to rear, had a gap at the bottom rear, again suggesting
that the radiator was too high.
When I put the radiator back on, I had to clamp the whole thing
together to get the nut on the bolt. The manual indicates that the bolt is 2
1/8 inches long, which means that the bolt I have is correct. I could fine
no reference to the dimensions of the rubber spacers.
Tonight I’m going to pull the whole thing off and try again. I’ll see
if I can “sock” the nut tight enough to bring it down to the 7/16ths you
suggest. Otherwise, I can shave the rubber spacers down a bit to get the
7/16ths inch spacing. It is very possible that someone replaced the original
rubber spacers with ones that are too thick, as some body work was done on
the front end before I bought the car.
As to the shop manual, even though much of my car was missing when I got
it, it did come with an original workshop manual. I lent it to Bill Bassett
at Bassett’s Jaguar in Rhode Island, and he made a master of it. He gave me
a copy, and it came out great, and that’s what I use in the shop. The
original is now under glass. I’m sure that you can get a copy from him.
His number is 401-539-7218. He also carries a good selection of trim items.
Brittish auto in New Hampshire has just come out with a fabulous catalog
that’s about fifty pages long for the Mark IV, V, VII, VIII and IX, listing
just about every part needed for the cars. The drawings and artwork in it
are excellent, particularly regarding the trim and rubber parts.
I’ve sent a carbon copy to the list in case any one else has had the
same problem with the radiator that I have had.
From: JagMkV@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 09:49:32 -0500
Subject: Ct Jaguar Club Seminar
John… as a follow up to our last communication, the Connecticut Jaguar
Club, which I recently joined, is holding a technical seminar at Stew Jones
Restoration and Repair Shop in Winsted Connecticut on March 23rd at 1:30 in
the afternoon. He’ll be talking about restoring Jags, and in patrticular,
E-types. He has a V-12 that I saw once that is truly incredible. I stopped
by his shop last year, and it’s really impressive, lots of great cars, and
it’s on the shore of Highland lake. An idyllic spot. What’s even more
remarkable is that Mr. Jones is blind, having lost his eyesight in a car
accident some years ago. It hasn’t slowed him down a bit, and his work is
magnificent. He can tell more about a car with his ears than most mechanics
can with a computer. It should be a fascinating day. Seeing as I’m thinking
about an E-type after I finish the Mark V, it should prove informative.
To get there, take route 8 north to winsted, turn right onto route 44
west (right, because you go around a semi circle at the end of route 8). At
the sixth light (including the one at the route 8/44 junction, make a left
onto Lake Street. Proceed up the hill to the lake and take a left onto East
Lake Road. After about 3/10ths of a mile, look for brick lamp posts and lots
of jaguars. It’s about 45 minutes from Waterbury.
Regards,
Craig
From: david@dino.ipelond.co.uk (David Brown)
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 15:02:44 GMT
Subject: Daimler V8 query
A quick query to the font of knowledge that is this list. My '67 Daimler V8 250
has a dynamo but the official service manual indicates that is should have an
alternator. Is this a case of Jaguar using whatever parts they had available
at the time, or has a PO changed the original spec ?
Thanks for the help on a previous query about an over-reading temp guage. It
proved to be the instrument voltage regulator not being earthed correctly.
Now I have an accurate fuel guage as well as not overhrating!!
Thanks in advance for any replies,
David
David Brown, IPE
david@ipelond.co.uk
///_/_/_/_/////_///______
/_/_//_/_/_/_/_/____
/_/_/_/_/______/_/_/_/______
/_/_/_/_/_/_/________/_/_____
___/_/_/////_/_/_/_/_/______
/_/___/_/_//_/_/_/____
///_/_/_/____/////_///_________
From: Elgsweep@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 11:58:51 -0500
Subject: Irish Motor Racing Club
Does anyone on the list have any info on the Irish Motor Racing Club? I am
looking for a club badge and have been told that the club is still active in
Ireland.
Also, I will be visiting Ireland in Late September and early October and
would appreciate any information on collector car events or vintage races in
that time frame.
Thanks,
Dennis Murphy
Geneva, IL
1952 XK120
1990 XJ-S
From: LOGAN@YaleADS.CIS.Yale.edu
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 96 11:51:19 EST
Subject: torque plates and their effect
Hi Bruce,
I read with great interest your account of installing a Chevy V8 in
your XJ6… very informative stuff!
One of the things you mentioned was the significant difference you’ve
observed between honing cylinders with and without the use of a torque
plate.
I’m in the process of rebuilding an English Ford 1600cc block for a Lotus
Elan and have been toying with the idea of finding a machinist who would
have a torque plate for this engine. After reading your comments about
the significance of honing with a torque plate I’m even more curious to
know just how much of a difference this makes.
Is there any quantitative information you might remember about this, or
other comments you offer on this?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Eric Logan
XKE, Xj6, Lotus Elan, Europa and Esprit
From: Ryan Border rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 09:34:42 -0800
Subject: Brakes 2nd look
Howdy-
Well after my update on my brake woes last week, you guys had some
good suggestions. As you’ll recall- the (rear) brakes on my MK1
bound up last week and wouldn’t let go. Cracking a bridge pipe
released the pressure (releasing the brakes) and I limped it home.
After a bleeding (with what feels like a dead return spring in the
master cylinder) the brakes seemed to be operating fine.
So, with the car up on Jackstands, I started it, put it in gear,
spun it up to about 2500RPM in 1st, and then stopped the motor
with the brakes. I repeated this experiment several times. After
each attempt, I checked the rear brakes, and they had released the
rotors just fine.
Since the failure mode wasn’t “no brakes” I figured I would try
a few on the road experiments. Put the wheels back on (re-adjusted
the hand-brake first) and started an outward spiral from my house;
dis-engaging the clutch and feeling for brake grabbing many times.
The thing just wouldn’t fail.
Next I took it to my “brake testing” stretch, and did some hard stops
from 70-80mph. The brakes would lock all 4 wheels if I asked them to,
and thankfully I didn’t feel any signs of rotor warp. Again, there
was no sign of the brakes grabbing.
So- now I’m stumped. With my luck, it won’t fail again until I’m
on my way to somewhere I really need to be :-(. But I’m hesitant
to open the system up… especially since it had sat for 3-4 months
without moving before it failed-
If it ain’t broke… ???
Ryan.
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 18:10:43 -0100
Subject: Re: Badges
[ “Himes,John W.” jwh@dw.att.com ]
|
| HTML would be OK if you only wanted to view it on-line as someone suggested.
| Not much help in the garage though. Would be a real pain to upkeep a
| document of that size.
Not really. Netscape and the like make very nice printouts, and
there would be no problem in downloading a local version that
could be used on virtually any platform for browsing, with the
benefit of hyperlinks and so forth.
Nick, writer of long sentences…
<<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>>
<<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>>
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From: traver@VNET.IBM.COM
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 96 13:04:40 EST
Subject: 4.2l Oil Pressure switch
I’m looking for someone that has a nonfunctional oil pressure sending
switch that they’d like to part with. I’d be happy to pay the shipping.
I need this switch for the threaded section that goes into the oil filter
housing. I’m looking to fabricate a takeoff for a mechanical gauge in
addition to the electrical unit, and I don’t have the proper British
die to make my own.
This switch should fit a 1967 4.2L.
I appreciate any help you can provide.
Please respond directly. Thanks, Todd
From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 11:39:03 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: Hub Caps and fasteners
Well, for one thing, epoxying the caps over the hole in the middle of the
wheel won’t make your tire [tyre] man very happy. (Unless he has one of
the newer machines that only grips the wheel by expanding outward against
the rim.)
MikeC m.cogswell@zds.com
'74 E-Type OTS
'88 XJ-S (H&E Convertible)
'88 Honda Accord (320,000 miles and climbing)
'91 Chevy Suburban (when you really need the room)
- ----------------- Reply Message ---------------------
From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 1996 13:57:55 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Re: Hub Caps and fasteners
Jim writes…
{My '82 XJ6 has a problem with hub caps… On all but one of the hubcaps
the
{interior clip has broken and is no longer functional
{
{Does anyone have any suggestions?
Epoxy? Actually I’m serious. Why do they need to be detatchable
from the alloy wheel? The only thing they cover is the ugly hole
in the center of the wheel and the dust cap (which you can get to
by removing the wheel).
The only thing that’s kept me from doing that is having access to $15
used hubcaps every so often when Jag Denver gets a new parts XJ6 in.
So, you might also see if your local independent Jag repair shop has
any used ones.
/\ Lawrence Buja http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern/
_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
________________Boulder,Colorado___80307-3000
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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 12 March 1996 Volume 01 : Number 417
From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 10:29:52 -0800
Subject: Re: 4.2l Oil Pressure switch
Is this the actual oil pressure switch(idiot light), or the oil
pressure sender for the gauge? The later cars may use the same type of
switch, if so it looks to be 1/8 pipe thread.
traver@VNET.IBM.COM wrote:
I’m looking for someone that has a nonfunctional oil pressure sending
switch that they’d like to part with. I’d be happy to pay the shipping.I need this switch for the threaded section that goes into the oil filter
housing. I’m looking to fabricate a takeoff for a mechanical gauge in
addition to the electrical unit, and I don’t have the proper British
die to make my own.
This switch should fit a 1967 4.2L.
I appreciate any help you can provide.
Please respond directly. Thanks, Todd
From: sbratsberg@imax.com
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 96 13:34:49 est
Subject: Re: torque plates and their effect
… any of the " how to build a chevy…ford small block engine " books
will talk about the merits of torque plates, but the best books about
block prep are Chevrolet’s " Chevy Power ", *** Power Secret’s **** by
Smokey Yunik (SP) and an HP Book by Bill Jenkins re performance building
the small block chevy… all good reading ( if your into that sort of
thing ) if you need the ISBN #'s I have them at home…( The names of the
books might be not quite right as I haven’t looked at them for a while (
sorry ) )
as to the effectiveness of torque plates…it depends on how much the
block destorts when the head is torqued down ( all blocks do … )so if
the bore is round with the head off…it will not be round after the head
is installed… and if the bore isn’t round the ring don’t seat etc…
have fun
steveb <+2 50-1941>
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: torque plates and their effect
Author: LOGAN@yaleads.ycc.yale.edu at InternetGateway
Date: 3/11/96 11:51 AM
Hi Bruce,
I read with great interest your account of installing a Chevy V8 in
your XJ6… very informative stuff!
One of the things you mentioned was the significant difference you’ve
observed between honing cylinders with and without the use of a torque
plate.
I’m in the process of rebuilding an English Ford 1600cc block for a Lotus
Elan and have been toying with the idea of finding a machinist who would
have a torque plate for this engine. After reading your comments about
the significance of honing with a torque plate I’m even more curious to
know just how much of a difference this makes.
Is there any quantitative information you might remember about this, or
other comments you offer on this?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Eric Logan
XKE, Xj6, Lotus Elan, Europa and Esprit
From: REMANKING@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 13:40:43 -0500
Subject: 120 Engine mounts
Has anyone seen front engine mounts on a 120 that are different from the rear
stabilizer mount? The “normal” late mount seem to be a rubber biscuit with
two ear on the bottom that bolt to the frame and a threaded hole in the
center for the bolt that comes through the engine bracket. My car uses this
arrangement for the right rear stabilizer but for the front engine mount it
has a different setup which appears to be original. It has a long threaded
bolt (Bee’s) with two large flat washers and two thick rubber dounuts. It is
very similar to a stud type shock absorber mounting. The engine bracket
rests on one of the larger washers which is on top ot one of the rubber
dounuts. The other rubber dounut is underneath the frame bracket and
counters engine torque. The reason I say it appears to be original is the
use of the Bee’s bolts ,internal lock washers, and “England” legible on one
of the rubber dounuts. My car also has the slots in the frame for the
“normal” mount but they appear to never have had a bolt or nut in them as
there are no marks on the black paint there. I am in the process of
replacing them with the “normal” type but thought that this was an
interesting item as it is not noted in any of the parts books. It may have
been a quick fix because of a supplier shortage of the mounts as it seems
they built quite a few cars (more than the average) in the weeks around the
build date of my car. Anyone else with a '52 have/had these front engine
mounts?
From: Bruce Bowling bowling@cebaf.gov
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 13:42:05 EST
Subject: Re: torque plates and their effect
~
~ … any of the " how to build a chevy…ford small block engine " books
~ will talk about the merits of torque plates, but the best books about
~ block prep are Chevrolet’s " Chevy Power ", *** Power Secret’s **** by
~ Smokey Yunik (SP) and an HP Book by Bill Jenkins re performance building
~ the small block chevy… all good reading ( if your into that sort of
~ thing ) if you need the ISBN #'s I have them at home…( The names of the
~ books might be not quite right as I haven’t looked at them for a while (
~ sorry ) )
~
~ as to the effectiveness of torque plates…it depends on how much the
~ block destorts when the head is torqued down ( all blocks do … )so if
~ the bore is round with the head off…it will not be round after the head
~ is installed… and if the bore isn’t round the ring don’t seat etc…
~
~ have fun
~
~ steveb <+2 50-1941>
~
~
~ ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
~ Subject: torque plates and their effect
~ Author: LOGAN@yaleads.ycc.yale.edu at InternetGateway
~ Date: 3/11/96 11:51 AM
~
~
~ Hi Bruce,
~
~ I read with great interest your account of installing a Chevy V8 in
~ your XJ6… very informative stuff!
~
~ One of the things you mentioned was the significant difference you’ve
~ observed between honing cylinders with and without the use of a torque
~ plate.
~
~ I’m in the process of rebuilding an English Ford 1600cc block for a Lotus
~ Elan and have been toying with the idea of finding a machinist who would
~ have a torque plate for this engine. After reading your comments about
~ the significance of honing with a torque plate I’m even more curious to
~ know just how much of a difference this makes.
~
~ Is there any quantitative information you might remember about this, or
~ other comments you offer on this?
~
~ Thanks in advance for your help.
~
~ Eric Logan
~ XKE, Xj6, Lotus Elan, Europa and Esprit
~
~
The one thing that “sold” me on torque plates was the time
I questioned a race car mechanic on this topic. He was honing
a SM Chevy block, and had performed the honing at first without
a block. The hone ran smoothly within the cylinder block
with no binding. He then bolted up the torque plate and
then ran the hone again. The hone at first “hanging up” and
ran unevenly, then after a few seconds it started running smoothly
again. When I saw this, I was a believer.
-
- Bruce
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Bruce A. Bowling
Staff Scientist - Instrumentation and Controls
The Continuous Electron Beam Accelerator Facility
12000 Jefferson Ave - Newport News, VA 23602
(804) 249-7240
bowling@cebaf.gov
http://devserve.cebaf.gov/~bowling
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From: Andrew Huang ajh@diamond.idbsu.edu
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 12:08:36 -0700
Subject: Re: torque plates and their effect
a block. The hone ran smoothly within the cylinder block
with no binding. He then bolted up the torque plate and
then ran the hone again. The hone at first “hanging up” and
ran unevenly, then after a few seconds it started running smoothly
again. When I saw this, I was a believer.
- Bruce
Ideally, then, wouldn’t we need to bolt up the exact head that goes on
the block since the flex in the head would affect how the block
flexed?
- -andy
From: sbratsberg@imax.com
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 96 14:52:52 est
Subject: Re[2]: torque plates and their effect
andy…
typically the top deck of the block is weaker than the head, the distortion is a
function of the bolt torque … assembly necessitates that the upper deck be flat
and 90 deg to the bore and that the head is flat
steveb
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: torque plates and their effect
Author: Andrew Huang ajh@diamond.idbsu.edu at InternetGateway
Date: 3/11/96 2:31 PM
a block. The hone ran smoothly within the cylinder block
with no binding. He then bolted up the torque plate and
then ran the hone again. The hone at first “hanging up” and
ran unevenly, then after a few seconds it started running smoothly
again. When I saw this, I was a believer.
- Bruce
Ideally, then, wouldn’t we need to bolt up the exact head that goes on
the block since the flex in the head would affect how the block
flexed?
- -andy
From: “Peter W. Karpien” 100306.3514@compuserve.com
Date: 11 Mar 96 09:56:02 EST
Subject: Exhaust Sealing Problems and JCNA
Well after numerous tries I still haven’t been able to get my Cat to mate up
(without leaking
exhaust) to exhaust manifold on my 85 XJ6.
Currently I am using 3/8 24 bolts which thread into the exhaust manifold down
pipe.
I have stripped one of the holes to date and I think after the last try I
stripped another. This was after
turning the clamp piece 90 degrees in order to make use of the second set of
holes.
It tried using permatex sealing compound but the gaps where too big and it just
made a mess
of things.
I also found that the cat was not coming in at the right angle. I seemed to fix
this problem by placing
a jack under the system and jacking it up into place before tightening down the
bolts.
Unfortunately I think the metal seal rings were shot by the time I tried the
jack method.
The plan now is to go to 5/16 18 bolts and put nuts on the other ends so I can
torque them
down better and not worry about striping out the wholes. I will of course be
buying new sealing
rings.
Have I missed anything? Any other suggestions from members of the list?
Second question. Does anyone know which JCNA is closest to Albany NY? I believe
it is
in Lennox Massachusetts? If so, how do I contact them and become a member? I’m
long over
due.
Thanks in advance,
Peter
P.S.
I think having Nick do the admin. work for the list is a great idea. Thanks
Nick.
From: “Peter Rebbechi” <"rebbechi peter"@a1.meoc02.sno.mts.dec.com>
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 96 21:44:01 -0500
Subject: XJ40 Seats
My 88 XJ40 has done 210,000 kms, and after reading your email, checked
the drivers seat mountings. There has been quite a lot of driver
time!
There is indeed a small amount of movement (rocking) but nothing too
serious. When you are seated, there is no movement. If you remove
the squab, you can check for free play in the hinge points, and see
them quite clearly.
The ‘40’ has some other quirks that are more important to rectify,
like oil switches etc.
I have not taken a car to a car wash for over 20 yrs, as we have quite
brutal washes here. Taking the time to wash by hand each week, lets
you look over the car and see all the detail pints that would
otherwise be missed. I had a broken exhaust hangar, that I would
never have noticed unless washing by hand. ($5 replacement ) Numerous
times loose items have been spotted before they are ‘lost’ items, and
fall off.
I have checked the drain hoses after the other emails!
PS. My cat is a wedding car next weekend, so is off to the detailers
for a ‘special’ clean.
Interesting to see if they clean as well as I normally do, or how much
better!.
From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 09:47:51 +1100 (EST)
Subject: Re: torque plates and their effect
Eric Logan writes,
Hi Bruce,
I read with great interest your account of installing a Chevy V8 in
your XJ6… very informative stuff!One of the things you mentioned was the significant difference you’ve
observed between honing cylinders with and without the use of a torque
plate.I’m in the process of rebuilding an English Ford 1600cc block for a Lotus
Elan and have been toying with the idea of finding a machinist who would
have a torque plate for this engine. After reading your comments about
the significance of honing with a torque plate I’m even more curious to
know just how much of a difference this makes.Is there any quantitative information you might remember about this, or
other comments you offer on this?
Torquing down the block prior to honing is very important, although I
believe the Jag XK block tends to suffer less since the head studs go
through most of the block down to the bearing webs.
The machining shop I use will make a torque plate for the job if it
doesn’t already have one. Often when tearing down an engine, you
can see the wear pattern in the bore dues to distortion when tightening
the head studs.
Robert
Robert Dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **
From: Peter Morris pmorris@tfb.com
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 17:43:28 +0000
Subject: Re: List Administration
On 8 Mar 96 at 8:48, Larry Lee wrote:
With all of the comments so far taken into account, it’s hard to
argue against this. I won’t. Instead, I’ll offer my gratitude to
Nick.
I’d like to add my gratitude (and a check to Mr Buja to follow)!
Regards,
Peter Morris
From: MOWOG67@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 20:51:31 -0500
Subject: E-type Charging weird now!
Ok,
Drove the car today for about 1 hour, when I look at the volt-meter and it
WAS charging!!! I did hit some mighty rough roads, maybe shook some ground
back in place!
But now the weird part.
It wont stop charging! And during the charge the red ignition light is ON!
At the very end of my drive the lights were pulsing, like maybe it was
over-charging!
What do I check??
Thanks a million!
Jeff
71 MGB
67 MGB GT
69 XKE
From: jaguar@gate.net
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 22:29:47 -0500
Subject: All British Car Day, Winter Park, Florida
Gerry,
Here is the information about the All British Car Day from the flyer I was sent
12th Annual Winter Park All British Car Day & Rallye
Saturday, March 30th, 1996
The four British Car Clubs of central Florida are again sponsoring the All
British Car Day & Rallye at its new location: Fleet Peeples Park in Winter
Park, Florida. The park is located at the southern end of Lakemont Avenue at the
rear entrance to the Naval Training Center. Fleet Peeples Park is located on
Lake Baldwin with lots of trees to provide shade for our usual event activities.
Amenities include a large pavilion, boat ramp, dock and centrally located clean
restrooms. The host hotel again will be the Mt. Vernon Best Western Inn at 1101
South Orlando Avenue (17-92), Winter Park. When calling for reservations
(1-800-992-3379) mention the All British Car Day and receive a special room rate
of $47.00 to $57.00 per night.
Schedule of Events (rain or shine)
8:30am - 10:30am Registration
10:30am - 12:30pm Judging (Popular Choice)
11:00am - 1:00pm Lunch (food provided by clubs)
12:30pm - 2:30pm Rallye
3:00pm - 5:00pm Raffle & Awards Ceremony
For further information please contact:
Dan Friend (407) 453-2289 or Curtus Koon (407) 831-1410
Doug Bohannon jaguar@gate.net
P. O. Box 2843 Sun Coast Jaguar Club
Winter Haven, FL 33883 Predator Jaguar D-Type
(941) 293-5335 Predator Jaguar XKSS under construction
(941) 967-7899 FAX 1964 MGB Race Car
1965 Land Rover 109 wagon under restoration
From: dhenders@lynx.dac.neu.edu
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 22:40:12 -0500
Subject: Buying 1st jag
Hi
I’m presently looking for my first jag and was wondering if anyone had
some tips on buying and what to look out for in a used car. I plan on
looking at a 87 xj6 with 65.000 miles this weekend. the car is fully
loaded, new rear brakes good exhoust, ac, stereo, and tires. I have
worked on cars for 15yrs and am mechanically adept with mustang but not
jags. If any one knows of some key points that I should check when I am
checking the car I would appreciate your input
Thankyou
Dan Henderson
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 11 Mar 96 18:59:10 EST
Subject: Copy of: Re: Filters and cold ram air ideas.
Hi,
I would have thought the cabin air enlet plenum box under/in front of the
windshield is a lower pressure area during driving, however I have no Idea.
I have been toying with the idea of having a mild compressor effect by ducting
cold air from the area in front of the radiator. using air scoops, and a dirt &
water trap just behind and then leading the air to either an electric motor
driven or a fanbelt driven air fan to produce a 0.2 -0.3 bar of extra pressure.
Fuelling would have to be compensated, and injection circuitry which monitor the
stochiometric balance (i.e. a regulated catalyst EFI system), would do this
automatically. Maybe such arrangement could boost power by 10%, at a relatively
low cost. A real compressor system like sprintex costs about 5000 pounds in
UK… Any comments ?.
Regards Jeffrey Gram
From: ply@ozemail.com.au (Patrick Young)
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 15:05:49 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: Irish Motor Racing Club
Does anyone on the list have any info on the Irish Motor Racing Club? I am
looking for a club badge and have been told that the club is still active in
Ireland.Also, I will be visiting Ireland in Late September and early October and
would appreciate any information on collector car events or vintage races in
that time frame.Thanks,
Dennis Murphy
Geneva, IL
1952 XK120
1990 XJ-SDear Dennis,
Don’t be confused by the e-mail address, just because this is a message
transmitted from Western Australia on an Australian mail addresss, it
doesn’t mean that there isn’t an Irishman lurking under the “disguise”.The IMRC is still very active, I don’t have an address offhand but I shall
endeavour to find one for you - if all else fails write to:
Royal Irish Automobile Club
34 Dawson Street
Dublinand ask them to pass on your query - they are usually very obliging and
will doubtless do so. The RIAC are the governing body of Irish motorsport.If you are coming to Ireland then do keep in touch and I shall find out
what else is on. One event which may occur at the time of your visit is the
“Circuit of Ireland Retrospective” (usually early / mid-October) which is an
authentic reproduction of early classic rallying.Are you going only to the Irish Republic or are you going North of the border?
If not, that’s a pity because the North has oodles of racing history too.
If you give me an idea of your itinerary I’ll try to point out which old
road circuits you will be near - the Phoenix Park in Dublin is a must, as is
Dundrod and Ards (the old TT circuits) if you are in Northern Ireland.Any particular reason for the interest in the IMRC badge? If you’re looking
for something historiclly interesting, try the 500 MRCI badge which still
has the original 500 cc racing car in the centre of the sticker…There will doubtless be other events on, although ctual vintage/historic
racing is unfortunately pretty sparse - I organised the first series in
1983 and 1984, incidentally.Best wishes,
Patrick Young
From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 1996 22:34:40 -0800
Subject: Re: XJ40 Driver seat
Derek,
Pull the seat cushion off, one screw, and check the fasteners on
the seat track. The motor anchors may have come loose, I’ve seen this a
couple of times. Odds are that the track is worn out though. I
replaced many of these on cars under warranty. They are $1000 recaro
bases made for Jaguar. I kept a few of the better units, let me know if
you need one.
dparnell@shlci.ca wrote:
A question for those of you that have any dealings with the driver side seat in
a 1987 XJ40. I have noticed that this seat has become loose (ie you can rock it
around) compared to the passenger side which is solid. I am sure that this is
due to the constant use on the driver side, this would explain the difference.
As this is an electric drive adjusted seat does anyone know if there is an
adjustment to take out the slack in the seat movement.Thanking you all in advance for any advice.
Have a great day!!!
Derek dparnell@shlci.ca
1987 XJ40 Sovereign
From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 96 10:17:00 MET
Subject: RE: Daimler V8 query
David, in principle the change from dynamos to alternators was in 1967 with
the slim bumper models. Alternator cars had negative ground , dynamo cars
pos. ground. I suppose that the change-over occurred some undefined date so
that you may have a model with slim bumpers and a dynamo I suppose. It seems
unlikely that a PO changed from an alternator to a dynamo. If you want to
install an alternator and change polarity, be careful with the clock that
has a diode in it. It must be changed for a clock with the proper polarity.
Frans. (putting his V8 together again)
A quick query to the font of knowledge that is this list. My '67 Daimler
V8
250
has a dynamo but the official service manual indicates that is should have
an
alternator. Is this a case of Jaguar using whatever parts they had
available
at the time, or has a PO changed the original spec ?Thanks for the help on a previous query about an over-reading temp guage.
It
proved to be the instrument voltage regulator not being earthed correctly.
Now I have an accurate fuel guage as well as not overhrating!!Thanks in advance for any replies,
DavidDavid Brown, IPE
david@ipelond.co.uk
///_/_/_/_/////_///______
/_/_//_/_/_/_/_/____
/_/_/_/_/______/_/_/_/______
/_/_/_/_/_/____/________/_/_____
/_/___/////_/_/_/_/___/______
/_/___/_/_//_/_/_/______
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From: Dr G W Owen ensgwo@bath.ac.uk
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 09:35:27 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: Re: Irish Motor Racing Club
Incase your visit can be made a little earlier, there is the Manx
Classic on the Isle of Man in early september. This normally has a good
selection of pre and post war racing machinery and includes 2 race
meeetings and a hillclimb.
Geraint Owen
1930 Morris JAP
1928/30 deHavilland Riley
etc
From: david@ipelond.co.uk (David Brown)
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 10:23:57 GMT
Subject: RE: Daimler V8 query
Frans,
You mention that dynamo cars were positive earth and alternator cars had
negative earth. Well, just to confuse matters, my Daimler is a wide-bumper
model with negative earth and a dynamo! All the electrics are pretty new so
it is feasible that a PO converted to negative earth from positive.
Given my distinct lack of knowledge, I could of course be incorrect in assuming
because the “dynamo” is about 10 inches in length that it actually is a
dynamo and not an alternator!!
Having heard stories about the inefficiencies of dynamos would I be unwise to
fit a heated rear windscreen without replacing the dynamo for an alternator?
Cheers,
David
David Brown, IPE
david@ipelond.co.uk
///_/_/_/_/////_///______
/_/_//_/_/_/_/_/____
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/_/___/_/_//_/_/_/____
///_/_/_/____/////_///_________
From: “Martin Robert Fooks, WWIS” mfooks@postiss.netherlands.attgis.com
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 96 10:58:00 PST
Subject: XJS Auto Trans Post-Mortem Update
Hi people,
I have just heard from the Dutch Transmission specialists that the
uprated Torque Converter in my newly rebuilt & beefed box did indeed
achieve meltdown for some reason after just 800 miles of use. They say
that they can’t see why it did this, but the one thing they can tell me
is that bits from it went into the box and destroyed many of the
internals AGAIN!!! (Thank God for Warranty!). They have promised to
build the box up for me to an even higher specification (the same Torque
Converter that they use on one clients 2000BHP motor) and I will just pay
the difference in price, with the English Transmission people paying the
balance. I think I must just have a gift for breaking things, as I’m out
of Nitrous at the moment, so I broke the box using just my right foot and
only 325BHP.
As a last note to would-be XJ-s engine modifiers :- I was warned of a
potential problem when I first started to up the power of the engine and
that is with the IRS mounts at the rear of the car. I was told by a
specialist that it is very easy to rip the mounts off the car when you
start to give it more Torque to play with. As usual it went in one ear,
and out the other and I thought to myself that I wouldn’t be playing with
the sort of power needed to do that, and anyway, he only had it happen to
1 car, must have been duff equipment anyway. When I destroyed the forst
Auto-Box in December, we noticed a very alarming thing at the rear end.
1 Mount only intact. This has now been solved by replacing all parts
with new and welding the unit to the car (I know this is a bodge, but I
don’t like the idea of ripping my rear axel off at any speed).
Martin R. Fooks (Martin.Fooks@Netherlands.NCR.COM)
(Martin_Fooks@MSN.COM)
Web Pages :http://www.cris.com/~Mrfooks/
Tel : +31 20 651 2698/ +31 20 41 91 731
Network Consultant, all round good-guy & part-time Demi-God.
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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 13 March 1996 Volume 01 : Number 418
From: Paul Peard Paul.Peard@BankersTrust.com
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 01:03:29 +0000
Subject: Re: XJ-S badge
Its good to reply to an XJ-S mail that doesn’t identify me as
public enemy number one in the anti-social road users debate.
Here are the results of the UK jury
Car 1986 XJ-S V12 (Registered in August 86 that makes it an 1987
model I believe), has one piece XJ-S badge post mounted I think
on the left and V12 badge (again post mounted I think) on the
right,
I see quite a few xj-s’s on the way into work, that all have the
same layout (can’t vouch for stick on vs. post though), the 3.6
have a 3.6 badge in place of the V12 one.
Regards
Paul
From: “Richard King” kingr@sabc.co.za
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 14:25:30 +0200
Subject: Re: Filters and cold ram air ideas
Jeff:
I’ve heard and read of “ram air” being taken from the plenum box,
and from other scoop arrangements, but, apart from the benefit of
the intake air being cooler, I seem to remember that any ram effect
only comes into play well above 100mph…
Your idea about a compressor sounds too easy! I’ll look forward
to hearing the comments of the more knowledgeable folk.
(I live a few thousand feet above sea-level incidentally, and find on
my rare trips down to the coast that my car suddenly gains quite a
bit more “Ooomph…!”)
Richard King
Johannesburg
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 11 Mar 96 18:59:10 EST
Subject: Copy of: Re: Filters and cold ram air ideas.
Front of the windshield is a lower pressure area during
driving, however I have no Idea.
I have been toying with the idea of having a mild compressor
effect by ducting cold air from the area in front of the
radiator. using air scoops, and a dirt & water trap just
behind and then leading the air to either an electric motor
driven or a fanbelt driven air fan to produce a 0.2 -0.3 bar
of extra pressure. Fuelling would have to be compensated, and
injection circuitry which monitor the stochiometric balance
(i.e. a regulated catalyst EFI system), would do this
automatically. Maybe such arrangement could boost power by
10%, at a relatively low cost. A real compressor system like
sprintex costs about 5000 pounds in UK… Any comments ?.
Regards Jeffrey Gram
Specialised Optical Services - SABC Johannesburg
Pvt Bag x41, Auckland Park, 2006, South Africa
Tel: 27 11 714 2205 fax: 27 11 714 2213
http://www.sabc.co.za/units/henley/optical/default.htm
Thought for the day:
Far better is it to dare mighty things, to win glorious
triumphs, even though checkered by failure, than to rank
with those poor spirits who neither enjoy much nor suffer
much, because they live in the gray twilight that knows not
victory nor defeat.
Theodore Roosevelt
From: wzehring@cmb.biosci.wayne.edu (Will Zehring)
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 08:11:25 -0500
Subject: list bomb: subsription info request
Fellow jag-o-philes:
My appologies for bombing the entire list with this but can someone out
there in “jag-lovers” post back to me with subscription protocol(s) for this
list? I’ve been “away” for a while, right about when SF#2 relocated, and
want to return to the fold now (prodigal son?). The E-type is coming out of
hybernation and I want to get into the mood…
Many thanks, and sorry for the band-width, etc…
Will Zehring
From: wzehring@cmb.biosci.wayne.edu (Will Zehring)
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 08:24:50 -0500
Subject: bomb exploded
Many thanks to Nick for help in re-upping. No one else need send me info.
Its good to be back…
Will Zehring
'67 E-type coupe
From: Eugene Abbondelo eabb@loc.gov
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 08:43:28 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Irish Motor Racing Club
Does anyone on the list have any info on the Irish Motor Racing Club? I am
Dennis Murphy
Geneva, IL
Dear Dennis,The IMRC is still very active, I don’t have an address offhand but I shall
endeavour to find one for you - if all else fails write to:
Royal Irish Automobile Club
34 Dawson Street
Dublin
Patrick Young
Patrick and Dennis:
I did a quick Yahoo search and found a link to the Galway Motor Club,
but unfortunately didn’t get the www address to the site, but have
an email address to the site owner: jordan@iol.ie perhaps he can help
with an address.
I am also interested in vintage activities in Ireland. In about 2 years,
I plan to visit relatives in the Charleville, Co. Cork area and would
like to bring over my 1949 Singer 4A roadster. Has anyone had
experience bringing a car over to Ireland, using it over
there and returning with it? Does the QE 2 allow you to bring an
automobile over as cargo? I’d rather accompany the car since I
have to get over there anyway.
Eugene Abbondelo (eabb@loc.gov)
Hyattsville, Md.
2 Singer 4A roadsters
From: steveb@msd.measurex.com (Steve Beck)
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 96 09:09:15 -0500
Subject: Re: E-type Charging
Jeff writes:
It wont stop charging! And during the charge the red ignition light is ON!
At the very end of my drive the lights were pulsing, like maybe it was
over-charging!
What do I check??
Well, I don’t know what you should check, but I have had a somewhat similiar
situation with my E. It seems mine nearly over-charges all the time. The
voltmeter is always near the red at 15-16 volts. The battery is not that old -
probably 2 years old. Is this a dangerous situation?
Steve
67 MGB GT
70 E Type
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 15:19:01 +0100 (MET)
Subject: XJ-S stuff
Concerning engine noise Tony wrote :
On my car, I get a distinct noise from the transmission when I hold it in
first, probably a bearing noice. Perhaps this is a sign of the
ransmission needing attention.
I’ve excact the same on on mine. No transmission noise it 2nd or 3rd gear,
but 1st gear a little noisy.
On another subject : we just came back from a 800km week-end trip and I
would be interested in oil-comsumption on the V12. BTW, we got 17.8 mpg
mixed on Autobahn and french country roads.
And finally since I got the car I have a little rattle noise when I
slowly start off, like something vibrates on the drivers side. Yeah, I know
don’t drive off slowly :-), but does this sound like any problem someone of
you has already seen ?
Kind regards
-
- Matthias
From: RWOODLIN@garfield.foods.indiana.edu
Date: 12 Mar 96 10:00:11 EST
Subject: list mula
Nick and Lawrence,
Kudos to both of you for volunteering your time and energies to keep
the list alive! My check for $20 is in the mail…
Robert Woodling
'84 XJ-S
From: “Tracy A. Ferrell” tracy@brooktree.com
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 07:22:15 -0800
Subject: Exhaust Sealing Problems and JCNA
Peter W. Karpien writes (in part):
Well after numerous tries I still haven’t been able to get my Cat to mate up
(without leaking exhaust) to exhaust manifold on my 85 XJ6.
Have I missed anything? Any other suggestions from members of the list?
I’ve had the same problem and have been told that it is necessary to loosen
the exhaust manifold to head bolts first since the exhaust manifold is in
two pieces and replacement catalytic converter pipes can vary.
Tracy A. Ferrell tracy@brooktree.com in sunny San Diego, CA, USA
From: “Jim Cantrell” JIMC@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 08:34:25 MDT
Subject: Re: XJ-S stuff
Several people wrote concerning transmission noise:
On my car, I get a distinct noise from the transmission when I hold it in first, probably a bearing noice. Perhaps this is a sign of the ransmission needing attention. I’ve excact the same on on mine. No transmission noise it 2nd or 3rd gear, but 1st gear a little noisy. If you guys have the TH400 transmission, I have found this noise to be common andf not necessarily a sign of trouble. It is the planetary gears in the TH400 that make the noise. I have had several of these transmissions and always had the same noise. I took the first one to a transmission shop and they said “normal behavior”. 100,000 km later, the noise presists and so does the transmission. Jim Cantrell 76 XJ12C 75 XJ6C 66 Alpine 2.8L From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch Date: Tue, 12 Mar 96 16:55:00 MET Subject: Re: E-type Charging Yes, this is a dangerous situation for your battery life as the charging current after start up will be much too high. Also, the acid level will lower more quickly because of electrolysis and the gases are explosive. Usually there is an adjustment possible on the voltage regulator. The voltage should be between 14 and 14.5 V with the engine running and no lights and other current consumers on (to be measured with a proper digital voltmeter). Frans . Well, I don’t know what you should check, but I have had a somewhat similiar situation with my E. It seems mine nearly over-charges all the time. The voltmeter is always near the red at 15-16 volts. The battery is not that old - probably 2 years old. Is this a dangerous situation? Steve 67 MGB GT 70 E Type From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli) Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 11:47:31 -0500 Subject: Re: XJ-S stuff At 03:19 PM 3/12/96 +0100, Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR wrote:
Concerning engine noise Tony wrote :On my car, I get a distinct noise from the transmission when I hold it in first, probably a bearing noice. Perhaps this is a sign of the ransmission needing attention. I’ve excact the same on on mine. No transmission noise it 2nd or 3rd gear, but 1st gear a little noisy. It is normal for a GM 400 to whine in first gear. Regards, John From: “Peterson, Gerry” peterson@dlvd.mdc.com Date: 12 Mar 1996 11:59:31 U Subject: E-type Engine Compartment Detailing Fellow Jag Lovers- As I have finally gotten into the initial phases of a restoration on my 63 E-type coupe, I’d like to solicit where I can obtain a definitive listing of “proper” engine compartment details such as what parts were polished, natural cast, chrome, black oxide finished, etc. At this time I don’t expect to make it a 100 point car but since most everything in the engine compartment will need to be “freshened up”, why not make it as close to “factory stock” as possible? Thanks for your advice. Gerry From: Joe Bunik jbunik@primenet.com Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 09:06:29 +0000 Subject: Re: XJ-S Rear Hub Carriers As far as the mechanics could tell there wasn’t anything obvious, wheels are stock and no evidence of seizures, etc. I haven’t been doing any off-roading or ramp jumps with the vehicle - at least recently
At 10:19 AM 3/10/96 +0000, Joe Bunik wrote:
The cracks didn’t look like original casting flaws but
more like metal which has been flexing and starting the fracture
process.Now why would they do that? Some weird geometry going on here? Way-wild
wheel offsets? Seized lower outer pivot bearings?Regards,
John
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 08:54:04 -0800
Subject: Re: E-type Charging
For Jeff - If you have a generator, then one of the relays in the regulator
must be stuck. If an alternator, a regulator fault there, too.
For Steve - 15-16 volts is too high, and will cause loss of electrolyte and
premature bat. failure. I would first check the actual voltage using a good
voltmeter, at the battery. See if the dash guage and it agree. A bad battery
could cause this, but again, a regaulator problem is more likely.
Good luck to both!
Hunt
At 09:09 AM 3/12/96 -0500, Steve Beck wrote:
Jeff writes:
It wont stop charging! And during the charge the red ignition light is ON!
At the very end of my drive the lights were pulsing, like maybe it was
over-charging!
What do I check??Well, I don’t know what you should check, but I have had a somewhat similiar
situation with my E. It seems mine nearly over-charges all the time. The
voltmeter is always near the red at 15-16 volts. The battery is not that old -
probably 2 years old. Is this a dangerous situation?Steve
67 MGB GT
70 E Type
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 11:26:40 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Grace, space and pace…
On Fri, 8 Mar 1996 rpeng@cadev6.intel.com wrote:
Forget about space. Perhaps other than the latest LWB, neither the XJ6
nor the XJS offer much space these days. These cars may be full size
on the outside, but they are like a compact car on the inside.When sitting in the driver seat of my XJ40(VDP), the door map pocket
protrude from the left, the wide center console protrude from the right,
the low roof line (especially with sun roof added) almost touches my
head, and the steering wheel/trip computer panel are very close to my
knee. All in all, it’s a very tight fit, and I’m under 6 feet tall.
No joke! When my XJ4.2, SII had gotten to the point where I either had
to trade or completely rebuild it, I looked at an XJ40 (1988, if memory
serves me right), and I was amazed to find exactly what Roger described.
Here is a car (XJ40) with most of its exterior dimensions within
fractions of my SII, but with nothing like the interior room. The
cockpit is tight (my head touched the roof), backseat leg room is less,
and my head hit the top of the rear window when seated in back–even
with the funky “pocket” in the headliner. As I’ve said before, no one
should be forced to buy a car with a sunroof. Some of us need the
headroom and prefer the open feeling of a higher ceiling. Optional,
yes; standard, #*&#@ NO!
While they are “full-size” cars, the SI, SII, and SIII XJs are not
terribly large cars on the outside–at least not by American standards,
even after the late-70s downsizing. Jaguar engineers did a marvelous job
of designing a LOT of room inside cars that will always be considered to
have classic lines–IMHO better lines than the XJ40 or the current XJ6/XJR.
The most puzzling question to this engineer is why, when they knew how
to get so much room in a car of this size, they chose to make it smaller,
but only on the inside? Am I missing something here? Are people getting
smaller, even though, at 6 feet, I find myself looking up to more and
more of them?
As you must know by now, I rebuilt the SII, and I’m glad I did!
Larry Lee
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 11:47:55 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: CFC’s, general frustration (minimal Jag content)
On Sat, 9 Mar 1996, Hunt Dabney wrote:
I can’t help but wonder how much of the
regulatory efforts are misguided. It seems like many really effective
products (solvents for electronics, freon, etc) are banned, but a “properly
sealed” “closed” system, such as my Ford, uses more of the stuff in a year
than a responsibly designed product would use in its entire service life.
Boy, do I HATE bad design!!!
AMEN! Most modern regulations are misguided because they try to tell
everyone HOW to do something rather than specifying the desired
RESULT(S) and letting creative people, i.e., someone other than
Washington (or other capital) lawyers and bureaucrats, find various ways
to achieve those results. The greater the specificity, the worse the law.
Larry Lee
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 13:07:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Grace, space and pace…
Forget about space.
No joke!
Since I am 6’4", I must agree with you all – and point out that it is not
only a problem with Jaguars but with nearly all other makes as well. I know
a low roofline may make a car look nice, but it’s getting ridiculous. I
always wonder what REALLY tall people like basketball players do.
The car with the most space I’ve ever been in? My wife’s 1985 Honda CRX, a
SMALL car! I don’t even put the seat on the rearmost setting! This car has
so much space for the driver and one passenger as to put my brother’s
full-size Lincoln Town Car to shame. And then Honda went and discontinued
the car. Since there is no equivalent on the market today, I’ll probably be
rebuilding this car until is simply wastes away to nothing.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: spe00@eng.amdahl.com (Silas Elash)
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 96 13:37:12 PST
Subject: Bartlett sale and MK2s and interior colors
If you are thinking of ordering an interior kit from
Bartlett at the sale price, it is most likely already tooooo late.
I called Bartlett as soon as I got the word about the sale,
but alas the available interior kits for MK2s have all been
gobbled up! They did however have plenty at full price, so
I guess I will wait.
My MK2 is white, and came with a black interior. I was going
to order a biscuit interior, but really wanted to look at a car
with the grey interior before I made my choice. Now that I am
not in a hurry to respond to a sale price, I would like to know if
anyone in the San Francisco Bay area has an early saloon with a good
condition grey interior that I might take a look at. Any pros
and cons on grey vs. buiscuit?
Silas
From: Chris Howard christopher@netmanage.com
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 96 13:55:47 GST
Subject: Hood ornament for 84 xj6 vp
I have another trim question. My XJ6 did not have a hood ornament
when I bought the car used, did they not put one on 1984’s or did the PO
take it off, I see almost every other XJ6 with a hood ornament, what’s up?
Christopher Howard
Engineer, Technical Support Group
NetManage, INC. email me at:
10725 DeAnza Blvd. christopher@netmanage.com
Cupertino, CA 95014 our homepage:
<www.netmanage.com>
408/973-8181
408/973-8272 fax Home of the Chameleon !!
From: HealeyDoc@aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 17:19:45 -0500
Subject: HS 8 carburtters for sale
We have for sale a set of HS 8 carburtters as used on many older Jaguars and
Daimlers. Used, need rebuilt. If interested please give us a call.
British Car Specialist 2060 N. Wilson Way Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767 (fax# 948-1030) Healey Doc@aol.com
From: Elgsweep@aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 17:25:35 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ-S stuff
In a message dated 96-03-12 09:24:21 EST, you write:
And finally since I got the car I have a little rattle noise when I
slowly start off, like something vibrates on the drivers side. Yeah, I know
don’t drive off slowly :-), but does this sound like any problem someone of
you has already seen ?
Matthias,
If your rattle noise is related to RPM, I had a similar noise in my '85 HE.
Never did determine what it was, sold it with the car, no extra charge.
Sounded like a bolt head touching the flex plate, but it was there before and
after a trans rebuild. Does your car have a catalitic converter? Sometimes
the heat sheild will come adrift and cause a rattle.
Dennis Murphy
Geneva.IL
1952 XK120
1990 XJ-S
From: “Tracy A. Ferrell” tracy@brooktree.com
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 14:35:13 -0800
Subject: Hood ornament for 84 xj6 vp
Chris Howard wrote (in part):
My XJ6 did not have a hood ornament when I bought the car used, did they
not > > put one on 1984’s or did the PO take it off,…
None of the XJ’s came with the leaper. They’ve all been added, although in some
cases it was a dealer add-on. You can buy them at the dealer or just about any
of the Jaguar mail order parts places. IMHO, I think the car looks much
cleaner without them, though (but then I thought the old 60’s Chrysler
Imperial was
pretty cool).
Tracy A. Ferrell tracy@brooktree.com in sunny San Diego, CA, USA
From: Wes Grady wesgrady@csbh.mhv.net
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 17:37:47 -0500
Subject: Assistance would be greatly appreciated.
A month or so ago, there was a “Gentleman” who flamed this group for =
days on end, sending ridiculous amounts of material, obscene messages, =
threats, etc. Got everyone upset. Seems he only wanted to be removed =
from the list.
Well, I am beginning to identify with him. I have sent message after =
message after message requesting that I be removed from the list, and no =
success. I really don’t need the 40 or 50 messages a day that come from =
here. Before I resort to electronic violence, can someone please =
un-plug me?
Thank you.
From: spe00@eng.amdahl.com (Silas Elash)
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 96 14:41:46 PST
Subject: Re: Hood ornament for 84 xj6 vp
Chris,
My 84 XJ6 also does not have the hood ornament and came from the
factory that way. I beleive that the cars did not come with them
and all the other ones you see running around had them added. Notice
that the palcement and sometimes the size of the leaper seem to be
inconsistent. I felt like I wanted one at first, but when I found
out they did not come that way I stood back and looked at it form the
perspectve of an “add on” and just plain changed my mind.
They do not cost that much,
but I did not want to drill holes in my hood to put the cat on there.
Now I like the looks of the car better without it.
It is just a matter of taste. (And for me, keeping the orignality
of the car.)
Maybe someone out there can confirm that all those cats were added on?
Or was it some kind of option?
Silas
I have another trim question. My XJ6 did not have a hood ornament
when I bought the car used, did they not put one on 1984’s or did the PO
take it off, I see almost every other XJ6 with a hood ornament, what’s up?
Christopher Howard
Engineer, Technical Support Group
NetManage, INC. email me at:
10725 DeAnza Blvd. christopher@netmanage.com
Cupertino, CA 95014 our homepage:
<www.netmanage.com>
408/973-8181
408/973-8272 fax Home of the Chameleon !!
End of jag-lovers-digest V1 #418
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Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 23:34:14 +0100
Message-Id: 199603132234.XAA17981@ekeberg.sn.no
From: owner-jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #1
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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 13 March 1996 Volume 02 : Number 001
From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 12:28:51 +0100
Subject: report
So far things are looking god, technically speaking. Contentwise we
have dropped the dead meat, but even with only elite members there
isn’t much good stuff to read
The digests were mailed out without problems.
Try sending a few messages, just for the heck of it.
Nick
Nick Johannesen @ Work http://www.sn.no/home/nick/
Phone: +47-2207 3981 Fax: +47-2207 3444
From: “Alastar W. Lauener” bu08@central.napier.ac.uk
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 12:15:58 GMT
Subject: New Mail test
Hello Nick
I suscribed to this list as you said, to the real time version
and not the digest.
Not sure who is on the list as yet, but I hope everything goes smoothly.
Cheers
- Alastair Lauener Work Phone +44 131 455 2458 *
- Chief Technician Fax +44 131 455 2267 *
- Department of Building & Surveying Home Phone +44 1577 864242 *
- Napier University, Edinburgh EH10 5DT a.lauener@central.napier.ac.uk *
- 1964 3.4 S-Type story at http://www.sn.no/home/nick/alas.html *
From: Roly Alcock roly@redac.co.uk
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 12:56:03 +0000
Subject: Re: New Mail test
I see it OK
Roly
Hello Nick
I suscribed to this list as you said, to the real time version
and not the digest.
Not sure who is on the list as yet, but I hope everything goes smoothly.Cheers
- Alastair Lauener Work Phone +44 131 455 2458 *
- Chief Technician Fax +44 131 455 2267 *
- Department of Building & Surveying Home Phone +44 1577 864242 *
- Napier University, Edinburgh EH10 5DT a.lauener@central.napier.ac.uk *
- 1964 3.4 S-Type story at http://www.sn.no/home/nick/alas.html *
Roly Alcock, (Postmaster) Principal Systems Engineer
Redac Systems Ltd, Tel: 01684 294161 ext. 211
Zuken-Redac Group Limited, Fax: 01684 298902
Green Lane, Internal redac E-mail: roly@redact
Tewkesbury, External E-mail: roly@redac.co.uk
Gloucestershire, GL20 8HE, UK Web: http://www.redac.co.uk
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 13:24:16 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Test
Test of jag-lovers mailing list via Majordomo at sn.no.
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: “Alastar W. Lauener” bu08@central.napier.ac.uk
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 14:00:49 GMT
Subject: Non-Jag
Nick,
Hi, it appears that messages are getting sent twice? Have you noticed
Alastair
From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 08:56:51 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Re: Non-Jag
{Hi, it appears that messages are getting sent twice? Have you noticed
Alastair-
Check your headers. Alot of the time when I reply, I use the group
option which sends one copy to the list and one copy directly to
the person that I’m replying to. So the original poster eventually
sees two copies of it.
/\ Lawrence Buja http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern/
_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
________________Boulder,Colorado___80307-3000
From: Roly Alcock roly@redac.co.uk
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 1996 16:15:38 +0000
Subject: Re: Non-Jag
I am only getting the one message, each time.
However if I do a reply to “all” of a message that I originally sent
out I will see the mail list copy and my own personal copy.
Consequently with this mail cos I am doing a reply “all” I expect Alastar to see
this twice, but Nick et al will only see it once.
Roly
Nick,
Hi, it appears that messages are getting sent twice? Have you noticed
Alastair
Roly Alcock, (Postmaster) Principal Systems Engineer
Redac Systems Ltd, Tel: 01684 294161 ext. 211
Zuken-Redac Group Limited, Fax: 01684 298902
Green Lane, Internal redac E-mail: roly@redact
Tewkesbury, External E-mail: roly@redac.co.uk
Gloucestershire, GL20 8HE, UK Web: http://www.redac.co.uk
From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 10:16:58 +0100
Subject: [NOTICE! IMPORTANT!] New host for Jag-lovers operative
Dear members of the Jag-lovers mailing-list,
as of now the new list-server is up and running. Please change
all references to jag-lovers@psy.uwa.oz.au to the new address:
>>> jag-lovers@sn.no <<<<<
I have copied the subscription lists from the old server so
there is no need to resubscribe. Everything should work as
before, but if there are problems please contact the list
admin (me) at nick@sn.no
I have included the new info-file for the list on the end,
please save a copy. It contains info on how to unsubscribe,
among other things.
Take care,
Nick
Nick Johannesen @ Work http://www.sn.no/home/nick/
Phone: +47-2207 3981 Fax: +47-2207 3444
From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 10:41:58 +0100
Subject: Bad idle when warm - weirdness?
I think I’ll take the opportunity to put forward a problem of my
own now, since I’m in the mood
My '70 XJ6, 4.2 (really 2.8, but engine replaced with unit from a 420
a long time ago) starts up fine, runs pretty much ok, but when it has
reached operating temperature it has a really bad idle. Well, not really
bad but waaay to low. I’ve tried adjusting the idle on the pair of HD8’s
but the idle adjustment doesn’t seem to work. I can kill the engine if
I screw them all the way down, but it is not possible to adjust idle
speed up.
Also, the engine doesn’t seem to rev very high. The rev counter stops
at 3500, but the engine does rev a little higher. It seems to just
run out of breath…
We adjusted the timing last year, with some improvement. I won’t say
the timing is 100% correct tho, I’m no pro at this. I changed the
points, but could only adjust by eyesight (and the fact that the car
started afterwards.)
So, I’m asking you guys what could be up. Is it the carbs? Is it the
timing?
Any input welcome
Nick
Nick Johannesen @ Work http://www.sn.no/home/nick/
Phone: +47-2207 3981 Fax: +47-2207 3444
From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 10:51:16 +0100
Subject: New info file (sorry…)
- –=====================826707076==
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=“us-ascii”
Sorry, forgot to include the new info file, here it is
Please make sure you save a copy for future reference.
Nick (list-admin)
- –=====================826707076==
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=“us-ascii”
Content-Disposition: attachment; filename=“jaginfo.txt”
WELCOME TO THE JAGUAR E-MAIL NETWORK! 13/03/96
** Please save this file for later reference **
What is the Jaguar cars e-mailing list?
-
Jag-lovers is an international network of Jaguar automotive owners
and enthusiasts dedicated to enjoying and maintaining the breed.
Linked globally in real-time via the Internet, a global electronic
mail (e-mail) network, we discuss various topics such as the daily
dramas of owning the things, car maintenance and restoration and
such. Together, we provide an informal support system which ranges
from sharing technical information and locating spare parts (or even
whole cars) to swapping tales of adventure and daring-do. -
The scope of this group is simple, discussion is open to any subject
involving Jaguar automobiles. Currently close to 650 folks are on the
list, not all of them owning Jaguars, some wanting to get info before
they make the plunge, others simply admirers of the marque.
Presently list members own, XK120s 40s and 50s, E-Types, Mk I & IIs, XJS
XJ6, XJ12, XJ40s, 420Gs, Mk 5s, Mk 7s and Mk9s. -
jag-lovers is now based out of Oslo, Norway. It was previously based in
Perth, Australia. New members from any continent and nation are welcome.
In other words the lists location does not make it a “Norwegian” Jaguar
mailing list. Norway simply happens to be where the machine is located
that re-directs e-mail to members on the list. The task could be carried
out by any machine anywhere in the world with e-mail access.
How busy is this list?
- The Jaguar list usually averages about 20 messages per day
How do I join?
-
Send a mail to majordomo@sn.no
with either subscribe jag-lovers
or subscribe jag-lovers-digestin the body of the message, depending on whether you would
like to receive each message as it comes in, or you would
like the messages to arrive in digestified packages.If you have problems try sending a message with just a
single help in the body. The mail-robot should then send
you help. -
When you join the jag-lovers list, you are encouraged to introduce
yourself and tell us a bit more about yourself and your car. For
example, tell us about the Jaguar you have (or want) and any
adventures that you’ve had finding, buying or owning it. Your
Jaguar-related tales of treasures found, repairs, racing, rallying
and any general misadventure are always welcome. -
- A Jag-lovers database is also operative and members are encouraged
to submit the form included at the end of this document. Please only
include information that you don’t mind being shared with other
Jag-lovers. Please note the address the form should be mailed to!
The database is available for browsing on the World Wide Web, but
the exact location is only divulged to members of the mailing-list.
- A Jag-lovers database is also operative and members are encouraged
How to post to the list:
- Send your message to jag-lovers@sn.no and from there it will be
relayed to all the other list-members.
Are there any rules?
-
There are no formal rules.
-
Commercial abuse of the list is not allowed.
-
Often some of the postings to jag-lovers make great material for
local club newletters. This practice is encouraged and helps
advertise the utility of the net. However, don’t assume that you
have the author’s permission to copy their material. The informal
rules we go by is that if you want to include anything off the
jag-lovers list in a local club newsletter, first get the author’s
permission and offer to send them a copy of the issue in which their
article appears. -
Also, be assured that you are among friends here. It helps everyone
if you relate both where things went wrong as well as where things
go right when working on your Jaguar. We all learn from it.
Administrator of the list is Nick Johannessen (nick@sn.no)
Jag-lovers resources -
-
The Web-site Inactive web
(admin: nick@oslonett.no) -
The FTP-site oslonett.no /user/nick/jaguar
Note: archives of Jag-lovers and various files
Note2: Will probably close and the files be transferred
to the web-site
(admin: same as web-site)
Jag-lovers database:
In everyones interest, I am trying to compile more information about what
Jaguars (and others) we have, and what part of the world we come from.
Say as little or as much as you wish, in any detail.
This is not in any way obligatory
We will assume that for any information you give, you do not mind it being
posted to the web site for example, or for letting other members know where
you stay. It will not be used for any commercial activity or mailshots etc.
Return from here on to bu08@central.napier.ac.uk
Database Form for Jaguar Lovers
Firstname ****
Surname ****
Address ****
City/Town ****
State/County ****
Zip/Postcode ****
Country ****
Phone Nos etc
Home ****
Office ****
Fax ****
Email ****
http:// ****
Car 1 ****
Model1 ****
Colour ****
Interior ****
Year ****
Mileage ****
Condition ****
Car2 ****
Model2 ****
Colour ****
Interior ****
Year ****
Mileage ****
Condition ****
Car 3 ****
Model3 ****
Colour ****
Interior ****
Year ****
Mileage ****
Condition ****
Likes/Dislikes **** (eg a wee dram)
Remarks **** (eg other cars, kids, anything you like)
Thanks for your help, you will benefit in the long run
Database admin:
Alastair Lauener
1964 3.4 S-Type
bu08@central.napier.ac.uk
** Now, did you save this file? **
- –=====================826707076==
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=“us-ascii”
Nick Johannesen @ Work http://www.sn.no/home/nick/
Phone: +47-2207 3981 Fax: +47-2207 3444
- –=====================826707076==–
From: Donald.McGregor@snl.co.uk
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 14:05:22 GMT
Subject: Re: Jaguar Newbie has plenty questions, few answers (XJ40)
Hello Jaguar Newbie, (anonymous emailer)
At the moment I can only guess at your mysterious item 1 near
the
speed control.
an LED wrapped in electrical tape along with a small thing the
size of a
pencil eraser.
This sounds to me like a flashing LED used as a (fake) alarm
warning.
The pencil eraser shape sounds just a little large for the
resistor I
would expect to see but they could have used spade connectors.
It may of course be part of an installed alarm system. If it
doesn’t flash
it’s probably broken/faulty. Usually they are RED for alarms
mind you ?
Does this flash when the ignition is off ? Does it ever flash
?
Item 2: Door Locks
All doors should unlock/lock together. The centre console
switch is used
only to lock all doors & boot and close the windows and
sunroof. I think It is
referred to as the PANIC switch. Locking the drivers door with
the key
and holing the key in the lock position should give the same
results.
Item 3 : Rear end noises:
Could it be a wheel bearing ? Maybe its the Differential ?
Item 4 :
You should get a copy of the owners manual quite easily from a
Jaguar
garage which will help out a great deal. You should also have
a service
book/history which itemises items for servicing. 88k miles is
pretty near
a major service. I’ll have to check the manuals tonight to see
what’s
recommended.
The owners manual is a joy to read and has beautiful
illustrations so it
probably costs #20 ($30) or so.
Hope this is of a little use, I had to try out the new
‘jag-lovers@sn.no’
address anyway. I have the full workshop manual set for the
2.9/4.0 models
up to 1991 if you require any info. Unfortunately the OPC
scanner doesn’t
make a good job of the service schedule pages.
Donald.McGregor@snl.co.uk
1988 3.6 Sovereign
From: Donald.McGregor@snl.co.uk
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 14:22:46 GMT
Subject: Testing the new jag-lovers@sn.no address - please ignore
test message only.
From: Donald.McGregor@snl.co.uk
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 15:13:41 GMT
Subject: Apologies for duplicates (and Jag-lovers@sn.no)
Congratulations to Nick for hosting the jag-lovers email, I hope we
aren’t giving you too much work. Your Web pages are truly among the
best I have seen, and certainly the first I’d seen use the new
Netscape frames.
Apologies for the recently duplicated XJ40 email.
I had thought that my last email bounced from jag-lovers@sn.no, so I
re-sent it to jag-lovers@psy.uwa.edu.au. In fact it only bounced from
one
recipient “baker@lafayett.geoquest.slb.com”. Next time I’ll read
my
postmaster messages before re-sending.
Interestingly, the jag-lovers@psy.uwa.edu.au mail arrived a minute
before
the jag-lovers@sn.no. Perhaps my emails go the long way to Norway.
Anyway, no excuses now, the jag-lovers@sn.no works OK, change your
address books now before you forget…
Donald.
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 11:17:26 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Bad idle when warm - weirdness?
On Wed, 13 Mar 1996, Nick Johannessen wrote:
My '70 XJ6, 4.2 (really 2.8, but engine replaced with unit from a 420
a long time ago) starts up fine, runs pretty much ok, but when it has
reached operating temperature it has a really bad idle. Well, not really
bad but waaay to low. I’ve tried adjusting the idle on the pair of HD8’s
but the idle adjustment doesn’t seem to work. I can kill the engine if
I screw them all the way down, but it is not possible to adjust idle
speed up.Also, the engine doesn’t seem to rev very high. The rev counter stops
at 3500, but the engine does rev a little higher. It seems to just
run out of breath…We adjusted the timing last year, with some improvement. I won’t say
the timing is 100% correct tho, I’m no pro at this. I changed the
points, but could only adjust by eyesight (and the fact that the car
started afterwards.)
Nick,
I’d suggest two things. First, be sure your ignition is all set
correctly–spark plug gap, point gap (dwell angle), and advance
(timing). That’s probably not your primary problem, but it really needs
to be correctly set befor you mess with the carbs. Eyeballing these
settings doesn’t come close, unless you’re very lucky. Get a dwell
meter and a timing light. They are really pretty easy to use.
It really sounds like you may be running an incorrect mixture. With HD8s
there is an easy check using the piston lift button. Be sure you don’t
have any vacuum leaks first. Once the ignition is right, you need to
balance the carbs, baseline the idle speed, adjust the mixture, and
finally do the final idle speed adjustment. This is, of course,
simplified. See the Haynes manuals (Jaguar manual and SU Carburetor
manual) for more specifics.
Hope this helps. Holler if I can be of any further assistance, or if you
find something else and my suggestions are totally useless!!!
Larry Lee
From: “Donald L. Sime” 103234.320@compuserve.com
Date: 13 Mar 96 12:19:59 EST
Subject: Copy of: XJ6 sunroofs
- ---------- Forwarded Message ----------
From: Donald L. Sime, 103234,320
TO: Jag-lovers, INTERNET:JAG-LOVERS@PSY.UWA.EDU.AU
DATE: 3/13/96 11:00 AM
RE: Copy of: XJ6 sunroofs
Hi to all
I have read with interest some of the postings recently about sunroofs on the
XJ6. I owned a S3 XJ6 for several years and then got a 94 XJ6 on a lease, which
just came to an end. The comfort level between these two cars for a tall (I am
6’3") driver is amazing. I had no problems with my S3 but the XJ40 was
terrible. When I had the seat far enough back for comfort, the steering wheel
was too far away. When I had the seat close enough for my arms to be
comfortable, my knees hit the stearing column. In either case, the hair on the
top of my head would rub against the headliner. I finally found a compromised
position in which I learned to be comfortable. Jaguar could have easily improved
the head room by doing away with that #!*#@!! sunroof. In the two years I had
the car, I probably had the sunroof open maybe twice. I would have gladly given
it up for more head room.
Least you think I didn’t like the care, let me say I did. For two years it ran
flawlessly and was a joy to drive. If it would have had a telescoping stearing
wheel and no sunroof, it would have been perfect.
Don Sime
58XK150FHC
From: Roly Alcock roly@redac.co.uk
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 17:33:38 +0000
Subject: Re: XJ6 sunroofs
Don Sime wrote
The comfort level between these two cars for a tall (I am
6’3") driver is amazing. I had no problems with my S3 but the XJ40 was
terrible. When I had the seat far enough back for comfort, the steering wheel
was too far away.
And so on
I am a miserable 5’ 8" and when I had a trial run in an X300 Daimler
recently, I obviously had no problem in getting all my peripheral bits
and pieces meeting pedals, steering wheel and missing the roof.
I was very comfortable driving the car.
What really annoyed me was that the ignition key fob constantly was bashing
away at my leg. The distraction was always there, and no amount of adjusting
the steering wheel and seat removed that problem.
At least the S3 puts the keys out of the way on the dashboard.
Roly
Roly Alcock, (Postmaster) Principal Systems Engineer
Redac Systems Ltd, Tel: 01684 294161 ext. 211
Zuken-Redac Group Limited, Fax: 01684 298902
Green Lane, Internal redac E-mail: roly@redact
Tewkesbury, External E-mail: roly@redac.co.uk
Gloucestershire, GL20 8HE, UK Web: http://www.redac.co.uk
From: Brian Chase btc00@atlantis.eng.amdahl.com
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 96 10:38:17 PST
Subject: Re: jag-lovers list management
Just tried out the new address in Norway. I got 90 second turnaround
from California → Norway → California for 2 majordomo requests…
I think this is going to work out just fine!
Thanks for taking over the list, Nick… and many thanks to Doug and
Scott for all the time and effort in Australia!
Brian
Brian Chase '66 E-type OTS
Amdahl Corp.
Sunnyvale, CA, USA
From: Elgsweep@aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 16:14:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Pace and grace without space
In a message dated 96-03-12 20:37:26 EST, you write:
The XJ-S is OK since I like to sit in a semi-prone position and the
steering wheel can be adjusted for reach so that I can reach it
Better stick with the one you’ve got then - my '90 has the Ford steering
wheel with the air bag and guess what - no in/out adjustment! Just tilt (from
bad to worse) like American cars!
Dennis Murphy
Geneva, IL
1952 XK120
1990 XJ-S
From: CLGIBERT@life.uams.edu
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 15:37:25 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: XKE supercharger
I am new to the list, so let me introduce myself. I am a medical student at
the Univ. of Arkansas, US. I recently purchased a '67 E-type OTS to restore.
I have owned numerous British cars, most recently a '64 E-type FHC which was
my daily transportation for two years. I am interested in supercharging the
triple carb 4.2 engine in my E but haven’t heard of such a project being
attempted before. Does anyone know if a supercharger is/was manufactured
which will fit this engine, and if so how I might obtain one?
Thanks,
Chris Gibert
clgibert@life.uams.edu
From: LLoyd 3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@cmsa.berkeley.edu
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 96 14:23:56 PST
Subject: WOW!
I want to add my thanks for the job well done. This has been the smoothest
transition I’ve ever seen. Thanks for all you’ve done Scott, and thanks for
carrying the torch Nick.
LLoyd
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #1
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Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 15:00:50 +0100
Message-Id: 199603141400.PAA13348@ekeberg.sn.no
From: owner-jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #2
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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 14 March 1996 Volume 02 : Number 002
From: sultan1@ix.netcom.com (Arthur Sultan )
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 17:48:16 -0800
Subject: Antenna Problem
Thank you all for your interesting and informative comments. I don’t
post very often, but do thoroughly enjoy reading what you folks write.
I have a 1986 XJ6 whose antenna motor has gone to pot. We used a burst
of power to push it to full length where it receives all FM stations.
It dawned on me that this wasn’t such a good situation when I thought
about having the car washed and realized that I would lose the antenna.
I asked my mechanic what it would take to fix it. He told me it was
one more Jaguar design fail in the the antenna and the motor are all
one unit and you can’t replace one without the other. How Much?
Between $400-$500.
Has anybody solved the problem by replacing this fitting with a
screw-on antenna or a callapsible one?
Many thanks
Arthur P. Sultan
New Canaan, CT
From: doug@psy.uwa.edu.au (Doug Robb)
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 96 10:22:52 CST
Subject: test of new address
Hi all, I am just testing the foward of mail addressed
to the old address (psy.uwa…) to the new address.
This mail foward will stay in place for a while but it
will stop suddenly one day so make sure that you use the
new address Nick posted out recently (jag-lovers@sn.no)
to send mail to jag-lovers list.
Thanks Nick for taking over and good luck to all you
jag-lovers out there,
regards doug
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 96 19:03:38 PST
Subject: re: XJ6 sunroofs
Don Sime wrote
The comfort level between these two cars for a tall (I am
6’3") driver is amazing. I had no problems with my S3 but the XJ40 was
terrible. When I had the seat far enough back for comfort, the steering wheel
was too far away.
And so on
I am a miserable 5’ 8" and when I had a trial run in an X300 Daimler
recently, I obviously had no problem in getting all my peripheral bits
and pieces meeting pedals, steering wheel and missing the roof.
I was very comfortable driving the car.
What really annoyed me was that the ignition key fob constantly was bashing
away at my leg. The distraction was always there, and no amount of adjusting
the steering wheel and seat removed that problem.
At least the S3 puts the keys out of the way on the dashboard.
Roly
Very good points!
In summary, the ergonomic problems of the XJ40/X300:
- Roof too low
- No leg room
- Key fob dangling on the driver’s knee
- Center console too wide. Door map pockets protrude too much.
You can always lower the seat for more headroom, but then your legs
become very uncomfortable.
Unfortunately, most of these problems cannot be very easily corrected,
short of re-designing the whole body.
On the positive side, the new Jags are pretty reliable, so it’s a trade-off. Roger Peng (408)765-7863 Intel Corporation Design Technology, Physical CAD From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli) Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 23:50:15 -0500 Subject: Re: 62 E Generator Pulley At 09:59 PM 3/12/96 -0800, Hunt Dabney wrote:
Hi!
I ordered a new alternator pulley from Terry’s and got just that - an
alternator pulley! That’s OK, as it is what they said, but I was kind of
hoping that I could replace my chipped generator pulley with it. Not to be -
the diameter is about 2/3 that of a gen. pulley.
I’ve checked around here with no luck. Does anyone have a suitable pulley
rusting away that they would be willing to sell? Mine has a big enough chip
in the front edge to chew the front edge of the belt up pretty badly. This
is the wide, flat double-V belt.
Thanks!
Hunt
Hunt, the old pulley is repairable if you have trouble finding a replacement!
Cut a disk out of thin sheet metal with a circle cutter or snips to fit in
front of the pulley. This will serve as a dam for the next steps; it is
best left in place permanently so size it appropriately - you may have to
dish it, the OD should be the OD of the pulley, and the ID is whatever
works. Thoroughly degrease and if possible acid clean the old pulley and
the ‘back’ of the dam. Spoon on Marine Tex (sp?) or JB Weld. Let cure.
Finish on a lathe or with hand tools. Sand and paint and the repair will
not be noticeable.
Did this to the cast generator pulley from a '59 English Ford Zephyr that
was missing 30 degrees of edge. Lasted many miles; when I sold the car the
repair was still sound.
Regards,
John
From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 23:48:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Grace, space and pace…
At 01:07 PM 3/12/96 -0500, Kirby Palm wrote:
Forget about space.
No joke!
Since I am 6’4", I must agree with you all – and point out that it is not
only a problem with Jaguars but with nearly all other makes as well. I know
a low roofline may make a car look nice, but it’s getting ridiculous. I
always wonder what REALLY tall people like basketball players do.
It’s worse than just low rooflines - I can usually recline the seat enough
to compensate. Taller people need more leg room, too. All too often the
only way to get it is to splay ones legs. All too many cars and even vans
feature more ‘tunnellike’ interiors with no shortage of pointy things on
doors and consoles to jab one’s legs. At least Jag consoles are smooth,
although I’m ready to yank my XJ-S’s armrests.
Regards,
John
From: slim@magicnet.net
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 00:32:04 -0500
Subject: speed transducer
to: dabney hunt:
good advice. i’ll take another look. i have opened one up out of curiosity
and just assumed the intense heat of florida pavement was too much for the
tiny little circuit board of transistors, capacitors and resistors inside
the transducer.
also, they never completely fail—just become intermittent. always works
at cold running. after 15 min. dead. there sometimes is a relationship
between other electronic systems in that when the air conditioner calls for
more cool and fires up, the speedometer comes to life exactly at the same time.
am also curios about what’s inside the transmission that rotates the shaft.
as you know, there are two bolts that fasten the female side of the
transducer into the transmission housing. ever looked into that? if so let
me know what’s there.
any further info is much appreciated.
From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 17:22:04 +1100 (EST)
Subject: Re: Copy of: Re: Filters and cold ram air ideas.
Jeffrey writes,
I would have thought the cabin air enlet plenum box under/in front of the
windshield is a lower pressure area during driving, however I have no Idea.I have been toying with the idea of having a mild compressor effect by ducting
cold air from the area in front of the radiator. using air scoops, and a dirt &
water trap just behind and then leading the air to either an electric motor
driven or a fanbelt driven air fan to produce a 0.2 -0.3 bar of extra pressure.
What you are after is a supercharger. While fans can supply high volume of
air, they are useless for high pressure tasks.
The air ram idea is good, but you would have to be going rather fast. You
may get 0.1 bar at 200 km/h. The main gain will be due to cooler inlet air
temperatures.
Fuelling would have to be compensated, and injection circuitry which monitor the
stochiometric balance (i.e. a regulated catalyst EFI system), would do this
automatically. Maybe such arrangement could boost power by 10%, at a relatively
low cost. A real compressor system like sprintex costs about 5000 pounds in
UK… Any comments ?.
A Sprintex would be fun, or perhaps one of those geared up radial compressors
which look like half a large turbo. One of these would sit quite nicely in
place of the air con compressor (which is not currently connected).
in the quest for more power,
Robert
PS. thanks to Scott, Doug and Nick on a jog well done.
Robert Dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **
From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 22:54:28 -0800
Subject: [Fwd: Re: XJ-S Open/Closed Loop]]
Michael Neal wrote:
Michael Neal wrote:
Kirby,
For the first 45 seconds on all startups the timing is
retarded and the supplementary air valve(in the right hand air cleaner
housing) is opened to give additional throttle bypass air to the right
intake manifold. The car is in open loop in P or N.Yes, the CTS does have to get to a certain temp before the EFI goes
into closed loop. When the car is warm it still needs to fire off the
cat as quickly as possible.I understood that the EFI was in open loop, regardless of shifter position,
until the coolant sensor indicates the engine has reached a certain
temperature. If this is the case, I still don’t see any benefit to the
feature of going into open loop in P or N.This puts the ECU
into a programmed state that doesn’t try to compensate for the mixture
change that results from the retarded timing and extra air.This would make it run lean. Where’s the benefit in that?
The EFI is actually running very rich on startup, the extra air is there
to help get the fuel burned. Try checking the O2 sensor on startup, the
voltage is maxxed. If you still aren’t convinced start up the car in a
closed garage and shut it off immediately, all you smell is unburned
hydrocarbons.-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | -- Palm's Postulate---------------------------------------------------------------Subject: Re: XJ-S Open/Closed Loop
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 22:45:35 -0800
From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com
To: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
References: 199603131659.AA24331@gcn.scri.fsu.eduKirby,
For the first 45 seconds on all startups the timing is
retarded and the supplementary air valve(in the right hand air cleaner
housing) is opened to give additional throttle bypass air to the right
intake manifold. The car is in open loop in P or N.Yes, the CTS does have to get to a certain temp before the EFI goes
into closed loop. When the car is warm it still needs to fire off the
cat as quickly as possible.I understood that the EFI was in open loop, regardless of shifter position,
until the coolant sensor indicates the engine has reached a certain
temperature. If this is the case, I still don’t see any benefit to the
feature of going into open loop in P or N.This puts the ECU
into a programmed state that doesn’t try to compensate for the mixture
change that results from the retarded timing and extra air.The EFI is actually running very rich on startup, the extra air is there
to help get the fuel burned. Try checking the O2 sensor on startup, the
voltage is maxxed. If you still aren’t convinced start up the car in a
closed garage and shut it off immediately, all you smell is unburned
hydrocarbons.This would make it run lean. Where’s the benefit in that?
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | -- Palm's Postulate
From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 18:06:48 +1100 (EST)
Subject: Re: – The Jag-list Fund –
Hi everyone,
Nick has gratiously decided to manage the list for us while Lawrence
has again volunteered to gather contributions.
To make life easier for Lawrence and local members, I’d be happy to manage
the collection of funds from Australia/New Zealand/etc. Contributors can
make out their checks in AUD or NZD and I’ll convert it to whatever currency
suits Nick in one hit. I’ll send details to Lawrence for collation with
other contributors. The same conditions as below apply except that the
preferred currency is Australian.
I will run this fund in the same manner as the previous funds:
- Contributors names will be greatfully acknowledged, but only the fund
total will be published.- As an accounting safeguard, any contributor who asks will receive a
copy of the list of individual fund contributors and the amounts.- You are encouraged to send pictures with your contribution and
hopefully Nick will add them to the members pictures page on the web
(it helps if you (and any signicant others) appear in the picture to
add some personality to it).- Please send US checks or cash only.
- The closing date is Mar 31, at which time I’ll send one cheque to Nick.
Any comments are welcome.
regards,
Robert
Robert Dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **
From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 23:08:00 -0800
Subject: XJS Closed Loop
I’m not sure this went through, here’s a resend for all.
Kirby,
I wanted to make sure my facts were correct. The way the
open/closed loop mode functions is as follows. The main goal behind it
all is to get the catalytic convertors to light off as quick as
possible. For the first 45 seconds on all startups the timing is
retarded and the supplementary air valve(in the right hand air cleaner
housing) is opened to give additional throttle bypass air to the right
intake manifold. The car is in open loop in P or N. This puts the ECU
into a programmed state that doesn’t try to compensate for the mixture
change that results from the retarded timing and extra air. Once the
car is put into gear, usually after warm-up is complete, the system goes
back into the closed loop state and takes input from all the sensors.
The feedback inhibit loop plug was installed so you can put the car into
closed loop while the car is in P or N. Under normal operating
conditions you will rarely have the trans in P or N while the engine is
running, usually just on warm-up. Pulling the loop allows the car to be
smog tested or the mixture set whithout having to put the car into
Drive. Most smog shops don’t know about this loop and would fail cars
on the exhaust readings alone. They usually wouldn’t take the time to
see if the car was going into closed loop. When troubleshooting an EFI
closed loop type system the best place to start is to check for closed
loop by checking the O2 sensor voltage.
Kirby Palm wrote:
Kirby: I may have missed it, but I don’t recall this topic in your
handbook. Is all this common knowledge? What do you think about all of this?The subject hasn’t been addressed in my booklet because, frankly, I have
been unable to find out WHY Jaguar would even provide the possibility of
operating in open-loop mode, much less have the car operate in that mode in
P or N. Seems to me the car should ALWAYS be in closed-loop after it warms
up enough for the oxygen sensors to work. I have asked Neal for reasoning
behind an open-loop mode, am awaiting enlightenment as are you.The only reasoning I can think of: If you put the car in open-loop mode and
then adjust the idle mixture via the adjustment in the ECU (which, according
to the book, should only be adjusted in closed-loop mode), you could
conceivably FORCE the car to pass emissions in P or N while violating
emissions as soon as you put it in D. Of course, such a plan would be
underhanded on the part of Jaguar, and they wouldn’t describe the procedure
that way in the repair manuals. Hmmmmm.-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | -- Palm's Postulate
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 09:06:05 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: Dealer’s competence or otherwise
Two bad experiences with Jaguar dealers had not put me off enough. A few
weeks ago I brought the kitty to another one, told them of drivetrain
noise and my suspicion that the diff was faulty and asked them to check.
They said: “It’s the gearbox, guv.” I said “Change the gearbox then.”
They did, then said: “Noise is still there, guv. It was the diff after
all.” After some negotiation I said: “Take out the new gearbox, put in
my old one, don’t charge me for it, and put a new diff in.” They did,
overtightened the pinion nut so that it the new diff was noisy again.
They said: “That’s normal, it needs running in.” After checking with the
list, I said: “No, it’s broken, change it again and don’t charge me for
that.” They said “Harrumph.” I said: “While you’re at it, please check
the air condition, it failed a day or two ago.” They said: “Oh, all right
then.” Changed the diff again and gave me a quote for repairing the
air condition for GBP2600.00. To include changing compressor and
evaporator at huge labour cost. This time I said: “Harrumph.” and took
the car to a local air conditioning specialist who diagnosed two leaky hoses
and a leaky compressor. Replacing the hoses, rebuilding the compressor
and recharging the system came to a tiny fraction of GBP2600. I checked with
the guy that neither evaporator nor other expensive bits needed changing and
he was adamant. He was right, too. It’s been working for several days now
just fine.
The 1st garage (a Jaguar main dealer, no less) go two diagnoses expensively
wrong. If I had believed their stories, I’d have been about GBP4000 out
of pocket. Out of three Jag dealers I have tried, this is the third one
which seems incompetent, uncaring, or both.In the experience of others, how common is this ?
(Those of you who work for Jag dealers are welcome to comment.)
Stefan,
this is scary ! I’ve currently the same problems you had (noisy diff and leaking AC)
and I thought to drive from Paris to England in the hope of finding a competent
and reasonable priced Jag repair shop. I had checked around for prices here in
France and their price politic for spare parts is simple : just get the UK price
multiplied by at least two. Also their interest in repairing an older car which
is not regulary maintained by them was not very hot.
I think part of the bad reputation of Jaguar are repair stories like Stefan’s.
Could someone recommend me a really good repair shop in the UK ? I would also
appreciate any negative comments. Since we plan to drive to the UK our
preference would be the south of England or the London area.
Many thanks in advance
-
- Matthias
From: ejt@wg.icl.co.uk (Ted Trim)
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 09:16:13 GMT
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #1
Nick, Scott and Doug,
I want to add my thanks for the job well done. This has been the smoothest
transition I’ve ever seen. Thanks for all you’ve done Scott, and thanks for
carrying the torch Nick.LLoyd
Seconded!
Cheers,
Ted
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 01:22:33 -0800
Subject: Re: speed transducer
Slim-
I don’t recall whats in there - I only had to go in once! I hope you’re as
lucky!
Hunt
At 12:32 AM 3/14/96 -0500, slim@magicnet.net wrote:
to: dabney hunt:
good advice. i’ll take another look. i have opened one up out of curiosity
and just assumed the intense heat of florida pavement was too much for the
tiny little circuit board of transistors, capacitors and resistors inside
the transducer.also, they never completely fail—just become intermittent. always works
at cold running. after 15 min. dead. there sometimes is a relationship
between other electronic systems in that when the air conditioner calls for
more cool and fires up, the speedometer comes to life exactly at the same time.am also curios about what’s inside the transmission that rotates the shaft.
as you know, there are two bolts that fasten the female side of the
transducer into the transmission housing. ever looked into that? if so let
me know what’s there.any further info is much appreciated.
From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 96 10:31:00 MET
Subject: List site and photo?s
Hello, Nick and all others,
Thanks a lot for taking care of our jag-lovers list. As funds are raised for
the payment of the server I will send an Eurocheque directly to you together
with the photo?s I took on the Geneva car show. They are 10 x 15 cm and
shiny. Is that allright for scanning or should I have them done another
size?
Regards, Frans.
From: david@ipelond.co.uk (David Brown)
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 09:44:59 GMT
Subject: Free screen-saver from Jaguar
Last week in the UK papers Jaguar ran a series of adverts to coincide
with the launch of the XK8 in Geneva. The advert gave a freephone number
which you could ring to receive a free screen-saver in PC or MAC format.
The number (UK) is 0800 70 80 60.
I waited a few days before posting this as the number was permanantly engaged
for the first few days!
I haven’t received mine yet but I’ll let the list know what it’s like when I
do.
One final point, they (Jaguar Marketing) said they would not be able to send
any info about the XK8 until autumn!!! (That’s fall to our US friends
Regards,
David
David Brown, IPE
david@ipelond.co.uk
///_/_/_/_/////_///______
/_/_//_/_/_/_/_/____
/_/_/_/_/______/_/_/_/______
/_/_/_/_/_/_/________/_/_____
___/_/_/////_/_/_/_/_/______
/_/___/_/_//_/_/_/____
///_/_/_/____/////_///_________
From: Donald.McGregor@snl.co.uk
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 12:40:08 GMT
Subject: Free scree-saver plus XJ40/X300 headroom
Rang the freephone number, asked for windows and windows 95 versions
of the
screen saver and XK8 literature when it is available.
Well worth a free (UK) phonecall 0800 70 80 60
XJ40/X300 headroom.
I am a hair away from 6 feet tall and fit in my XJ40 no problem and I
have a sunroof.
I do occasionally feel a few hairs touch the roof liner though…
Never fear, the sunroof is not standard on any model in the UK except
the Double six
Daimler, so you can all save some money and get more headroom. I like
my sunroof,
even if I hardly ever use it. I much prefer the newer tilting variety
though which will
allow better ventilation if/when the air/con packs in…
Donald.McGregor@snl.co.uk
From: “BJ Kroppe” wkroppe@ford.com
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 08:50:07 -0500
Subject: Re: List Administration
Thanks for picking up this job, Nick. I’m confident in
your capabilities based on our past list/web experiences.
Thanks Doug and Scott , for your outstanding work
in the past.
BJ Kroppe - '82 XJ6
From: “BJ Kroppe” wkroppe@ford.com
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 08:59:10 -0500
Subject: D Type spotted
Greetings All -
I want to relay a Jaguar sighting I experienced while in Florida, USA
several weeks ago. Shame on me for not posting it earlier.
I was driving along a sunny stretch of local 4 lane road when a skinny,
dark roadster pulled onto the road, going in my direction. It looked like
the car had some kind of “flag” or strange wing appendage on the
back (I was too far away to tell). As I got nearer, I thought, “Gee, this
must be a D-Type replica. Not that interesting, but oh well.” As I
got nearer I noticed the wrap around windscreen and heard the
lumpy exhaust note of a highly tuned XK motor. Wow! My mind
started spinning as I moved alongside the car, obviously craning
my neck and ogling the car as we drove. The car had the “Ecurie
Ecosse” shield emblem on the right side front wing, and the car
was RHD. It was a lovely deep turquoise blue, almost azure.
I rolled down my window and asked the guy if it was authentic,
not a replica. He obviously didn’t hear me and said, “It’s a
Jaguar.” He must be used to people asking him what the heck kind
of car it is. So I asked again if it was real and he said yes. I wrote
down the registration number, to correlate with you list members.
The number painted on the front right lower fascia is: 15 NHN.
(Maybe 15 NHW, my writing was sloppy as I wrote while driving).
What a great car! Can anyone authenticate this reg. number?
p.s. It did smoke a little as it pulled away!!
pps. 2 miles later I spotted a convertible Bentley on the same road.
This all happened in Naples, Florida.
BJ Kroppe - '82 XJ6
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #2
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Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 01:00:26 +0100
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From: owner-jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 15 March 1996 Volume 02 : Number 003
From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 15:54:04 -0800
Subject: S-shaped tail pipes.
Hi all,
I’ve been very busy lately, but this afternoon I managed to browse through a
dozen Jag-mails.
Peter Pesch says it is the shape and styling of the cars only that make Jaguar
what it is. I agree, but having said that, we also have to give some credit to
the magnificent XK engine - although not designed by Sir Bill himself, but
by his associates Bill Haynes, Walter Hassan and Claude Baily - which in a
significant way has contributed to the success of Jaguar through decades.
As to the shape of its tail pipes, the first production cars actually had
straight pipes. Jaguar, acting on complaints of exhaust fumes entering the rear
compartment, soon fitted the S-shaped pipes which proved to eliminate the
problem(?).
I think the S-shaped tail pipes add a flare of mystery to the car. They are
certainly more elegant than the straight ones.
Cheers
Baard
______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no
From: “Tracy A. Ferrell” tracy@brooktree.com
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 07:30:40 -0800
Subject: Antenna Problem
Arthur Sultan wrote (in part):
I have a 1986 XJ6 whose antenna motor has gone to pot.
Between $400-$500.
Has anybody solved the problem by replacing this fitting with a
screw-on antenna or a callapsible one?
I fixed mine with a $20US Pep Boys antenna (looks just like the Jaguar one
from the outside) along with a little cicuit I designed to operate it. Cost
me about $30US total. However, I’ve recently seen complete replacement
antennae in the
$150US range from either Welsch or SICP.
Tracy A. Ferrell tracy@brooktree.com in Rainy San Diego, CA, USA
From: HEY BY GOD manson@xmission.com
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 08:36:06 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Jag rentals in the UK
Hello to all you Jag lovers!
I have a buddy who is getting married at the end of May in Scotland. I will
be flying into London, then somehow someway getting north. My preference
is to drive there in a Jaguar! So, my question is this: Does anyone have
information regarding Jag rentals? New, old, I’m not too picky as long as
I don’t have to get out and overhaul the thing during the week I’m there.
Much thanks in advance,
Derick
- -----------------------|Don’t help me! I can save myself;---------------------
Derick Bingman |If I’m incomplete, don’t fill the gap.
manson@xmission.com |Save me from the people who would save me from myself, - -----------------------|They’ve got muscle for brains!-----------Gang of Four-
Useless drivel that you can shake a stick at! http://www.xmission.com/~manson
From: “L. W. (Bill) Clark” lwc@fforsm.com
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 07:27:27 -0800
Subject: MkII Door handles…
First, my thanks to past and present major domos.
Which way do the interior door handles point - up, or down … I replaced
the panels and in my haste it never occurred to me to take notes before I
started.
TIA
L. W. (Bill) Clark
(415) 919-4061 Office
From: Don Mathis tdm@smtp-gw.ak.att.com
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 11:55:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Irish Motor Racing Club
At 03:05 PM 3/12/96 +1000, you wrote:
Does anyone on the list have any info on the Irish Motor Racing Club? I am
looking for a club badge and have been told that the club is still active in
Ireland.
Dennis Murphy
Geneva, IL
1952 XK120
1990 XJ-SDear Dennis,
Don’t be confused by the e-mail address, just because this is a message
transmitted from Western Australia on an Australian mail addresss, it
doesn’t mean that there isn’t an Irishman lurking under the “disguise”.The IMRC is still very active, I don’t have an address offhand but I shall
endeavour to find one for you - if all else fails write to:
Royal Irish Automobile Club
34 Dawson Street
Dublinand ask them to pass on your query - they are usually very obliging and
will doubtless do so. The RIAC are the governing body of Irish motorsport.Any particular reason for the interest in the IMRC badge? If you’re looking
for something historiclly interesting, try the 500 MRCI badge which still
has the original 500 cc racing car in the centre of the sticker…Best wishes,
Patrick Young
Speaking of badges…I’d like to find a metal and enamel AA badge
somewhat like they may have had in the 30’s…or 60’s.
Don Mathis,Ph.D.
Member of Technical Staff
LUCENT TECHNOLOGIES
Bell Labs Innovations
Norcross, Georgia
'61 MGA '37 Bentley
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 11:12:35 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: WOW!
On Wed, 13 Mar 1996, LLoyd wrote:
I want to add my thanks for the job well done. This has been the smoothest
transition I’ve ever seen. Thanks for all you’ve done Scott, and thanks for
carrying the torch Nick.
Ditto from me. Thanks to both you guys.
Larry Lee
From: Paul Peard Paul.Peard@BankersTrust.com
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 17:22:33 +0000
Subject: Re: Dealer’s competence or otherwise
Matthias,
I have used a guy in Maidstone (Kent) just of of the M20 (about
40/50 miles from Dover), called Paul Taylor, he does everything
from sticky windows to structural welding (but not paintwork). I
used him to replace a heater core in my xj-s, he was reasonably
priced (200GBP total) for the job and treated the car with a
great deal of respect and delivered a fixed car when he said he
would.
He main speciality is A/C but he has had good press from several
people I know for all kinds of things.
He is on (44)1622 681233.
I was also impressed that he will only book things in when he
knows he can work on them, no backlog of things to fix, he
starts on your car the day he gets it.
Normal disclaimers… I have no association with him other
than as a happy customer.
Regards
Paul
From: Clive_Hallatt@BayNetworks.COM (Clive Hallatt)
Date: 14 Mar 1996 17:00:17 GMT
Subject: Re: Jag rentals in the UK
Budget rentals have new xj40s for rent, I think its aboout 100 pounds a day.
Regards Clive.
From: “Alan Johnston” alan_johnston@ed22qm.msfc.nasa.gov
Date: 14 Mar 1996 12:17:35 -0600
Subject: Looked at '64 E-Type
Minimalist Mail Looked at '64 E-Type
Hello Everyone,
I thought I'd look for some opinions from the experts. I drove to Knoxville
this past weekend to look at a '64 S1 E-Type OTS. Maybe you folks (chaps) can
tell me if I made the correct assessment (albeit quickly made on only partial
information).
The jag is a 1964 roadster in BRG with bisquit top and interior. The frame,
body and interior (but not the dash or wiring) were fully restored about 5 years
ago and still look to be in excellent condition. The engine was also rebuilt at
that time, but has had an overheating problem since the rebuild that has gone
unsolved. The rebuilder/restorer ditched the stock engine-driven fan and
replaced it with an electric fan (configured as a pusher for some unknown
reason). He also supposedly redid the radiator, etc. Something is wrong that
eludes them though, because the owner says the car overheats in a matter of
minutes, and would not run it for very long as I looked it over. I did not check
the oil for any contamination, so I can’t say anything about the condition of
the block/heads/etc. I can say, however, that there seemed to be a significant
amount of valve clacking (in my limited experience) on the intake side (dual
stomberg carbs). I believe the exhaust appearance was reasonable, and there was
no spitting of oil on the ground after he started it (started reasonably
easily). He did admit that he hadn’t started it in the past six months until the
day before I got there.
The other problem with the car is that it didn’t “track” well. That was how
the owner phrased it. In other words, the steering was so bad that it was
uncomfortable to drive. The front end/steering had evidently not been reworked,
and was worn out. The owner would not let me test drive the car “because I have
no insurance on it”. I wasn’t sure just how bad the steering was, but worst case
analysis would be that it needs total rework.
There were a few other things incomplete in the car, but I can’t recall
what they were off hand. I do remember that he does have a hard top to go with
it. That was a nice feature. It also had wire wheels. I believe the car to be
original other than the new interior, electric fan, paint, and body/frame
replacement panels for rust repairs.
The bottom line was that he wanted $27.5K for it, and I felt that the
engine trouble and front end/steering trouble could be such potential expense
that $27.5K was way too much for it. What do you think? I mean, the body and
frame were so nice, and mechanical work can always be re-done. I would have to
look it over again to check out things more closely if he would be willing to
come down on the price. My initial feeling was that maybe $22K would be more
reasonable. Add to that the engine and front end rework expense, and you’ve got
a nice car at a reasonable price. Am I way off base?
I’m afraid I didn’t look at it much closer than that as I felt the car was
overpriced, hence didn’t feel inclined to be serious about my intentions. I was
not afraid to leave and consider returning to look at it again later as he is
located close to my parents house. It would not be inconvenient to drop by to
look at it again, and besides, noone has even looked at it in six months. I
don’t think its going anywhere.
Do any of you have some words of advice?
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Alan
Alan_Johnston@ed22qm.msfc.nasa.gov
From: “White, Dick” white@msgate.columbiasc.ATTGIS.COM
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 96 13:15:00 edt
Subject: RE: Fuel tanks & head pictures
Hi all,
Jon Heber, login name ‘cci’, runs a web page titled ‘All Jaguar Clubs of the
World’ and, at the time of the discussion, volunteered to place the pictures
on his web page. I took a series of pictures of my block and head from the
S-Type before reassembly and sent them to him last weekend. I haven’t
heard back from him yet. He may be on vacation or may be having e-mail
problems - I don’t know.
I sent them to him in JPEG format. The amount of compression realized is
quite significant - 1.2 MB .bmp files became 70 KB .jpg files. I used
Aldus Photostyler and Altamira Composer. I believe that one of those two
will import images in the Kodak format. I’ll check tonight. If someone
would like to send me a test file I will try it out.
Daniel,
I took a closeup of what I believe you referred to earlier as the date code
of the block. I’ll be interested to see how it compares to what you were
referring to. I took closeups of all the stampings and casting numbers I
could find - most of which I found interesting but don’t know what they
mean. I am looking forward to having others view the pictures and hearing
comments. Maybe some others know what they are.
Regards,
Dick White
Columbia, SC
'64 3.8 S-Type
'58 XK 150 FHC
From: Daniel S. Hayes
To: jag-lovers
Subject: Fuel tanks & head pictures
Date: Wednesday, March 13, 1996 7:35PMHi all,
questions about fuel tanks & a request:
- Are the fuel tanks from a '66 E-Type and a '64 E-Type
exchangeable? The '64 has a submersed fuel pump while the '66 has an
external pump.- About a month ago, amongst all the confusion about heads, someone(I don’t remember now) suggested adding a link to the Jag-Lover’s web page
that contained pictures of Jag heads. Evidently, both Nick and I thought
this to be a great idea and concluded what was needed first
were…PICTURES. Nick told me what he thought to be the best image
format. Unfortunately, due to some hard disk problems, I lost the email
correspondence. Regardless, jpg or bmp should be fine as they are easy to
convert (pleas jump in at anytime). However, I believe the most convenient
format for those of use that do not have scanners is a format Kodak
supports. Just send your negatives to kodak for development and, upon
request, they’ll return your developed pictures on a 3.5" floppy. Does
anyone know of a program that will convert from the Kodak format to jpg or
bmp? Since I have only enviously view pictures from a friends disk, I am
not
well informed on the subject (jump in again). I am willing to accept uu
encoded or binhex encoded pictures sent to my email address unless someone
has a better idea?Let me know,
Daniel S. Hayes
2200 Wilson Blvd., #102-226
Arlington, VA 22201
danh@intelus.com 64 3.8 Series I E-Type Coupe
301-990-6363x263 301-330-6707 Fax
March 13, 1996
7:32 pm
From: JimJag@aol.com
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 13:21:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Hood ornament for 84 xj6 vp
hey, i respect all of your opinions but, once again, i think i share the
minority opinion (my life story!). my used 1985 vanden plas came with a full
size cat on the hood and i just think it is one of the defining features of a
jaguar. what a sleek, powerful, and focused piece it is…just beautiful!!!
i will NEVER own a jaguar without the cat on the hood. just my opinion.
but what do i know, anyhow?
From: “L. W. (Bill) Clark” lwc@fforsm.com
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 09:52:45 -0800
Subject: MkII door handles…
First, my thanks to past and present major domos.
Originally sent this to jag-lovers@sn.no as instructed but it was returned
as undeliverable.
Which way do the interior door handles point - up, or down … I replaced
the panels and in my haste it never occurred to me to take notes before I
started.
TIA
L. W. (Bill) Clark
(415) 919-4061 Office
From: tony goodall tony@goodall.u-net.com
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 18:58:59 -0000
Subject: Re: Free scree-saver plus XJ40/X300 headroom
At 12:40 14/03/96 -0000, Donald.McGregor@snl.co.uk wrote:
I am a hair away from 6 feet tall and fit in my XJ40 no problem and I
have a sunroof.
I do occasionally feel a few hairs touch the roof liner though…
I’m 6’1", but have a long body - I do have trouble in the xj40
damn sun roof!!!
Never fear, the sunroof is not standard on any model in the UK except
the Double six Daimler
I think the normal Daimler has it as standard, and I thought it was
standard on all sovereigns in fact
tony
Dr. A. Goodall http://www.u-net.com/~goodall/
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 12:53:58 -0800
Subject: Re: MkII Door handles…
You wrote:
First, my thanks to past and present major domos.
Which way do the interior door handles point - up, or down …
Bill,
pointing down in front and pointing up in the rear
kind rgards
tony
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
From: jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk (Stefan Schulz)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 22:50:39 GMT
Subject: Re: XK8 Launched at Geneva Motor Show
In message 9603102319.AA4300@worldcom-45.worldcom.com Jan Wikstroem writes:
Now who on earth would graft a
rabbit’s mouth into the face of a cat.
Apart from the buck teeth, which btw are the wrong spacing to hold a UK
plate, the mouth of the XK8 seems to be more like the Ford corporate
nostril, viz the new Fiesta and whatever they call the Ford/VW people
carrier. Shudder !
Regards,
Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
From: Quang Ngo qlogic!ngo@netcom.com
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 96 11:19:01 PST
Subject: What’s the Idle RPM?
Hello everyone,
The idle RMP on my Jaguar XJ6 89 is about 600. Is this correct?
Sometimes the engine runs kinda rough. It feels like one of the
spark plug is out. But if I step on the gas a little bit so that
the RPM is at 800 the car runs smoother. If I need to increase
the RPM where do I need to adjust?
Thanks,
- -Quang (ngo@qlogic.com)
From: jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk (Stefan Schulz)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 1996 23:05:19 GMT
Subject: Re: XJ-S stuff
In message 199603121419.PAA01450@turquoise.cray.com mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR) writes:
On another subject : we just came back from a 800km week-end trip and I would be interested in oil-comsumption on the V12. BTW, we got 17.8 mpg mixed on Autobahn and french country roads. Mine uses about 0.5l/1000km (600 miles or three tankfuls) Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk From: jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk (Stefan Schulz) Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 21:21:16 GMT Subject: Re: Dealer’s competence or otherwise In message 199603140806.JAA02583@turquoise.cray.com mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR) writes: I think part of the bad reputation of Jaguar are repair stories like Stefan’s. Seconded. Perhaps I should have mentioned that there’s a fourth Jag main dealer where I buy spares occasionally. I decided against ever giving them my car for repairs when I saw one of their mechanics close the door of a customer’s XJ-S by kicking it shut with his boot. I was 50 yards away at the time and could still hear the thud of the boot on the door. Sacrilege. Could someone recommend me a really good repair shop in the UK ? Well, WRT air condtion here’s the shop that did mine: Vehicle Air Conditioning Services Unit 2-3, The Circuit Centre Avro Way, Brooklands Industrial Park Weybridge Surrey England KT13 0YU Telephone +44 (1932) 355825 Fax +44 (1932) 355824 The address is exactly where you think it is: Inside the old Brooklands race track. You can see part of the banked track from the approach road. appreciate any negative comments. Given UK libel law I’ll send them to you by private email, outside the public forum. Regards, Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk From: Elgsweep@aol.com Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 17:39:20 -0500 Subject: Re: MkII Door handles… In a message dated 96-03-14 11:39:41 EST, you write: Which way do the interior door handles point - up, or down … I replaced the panels and in my haste it never occurred to me to take notes before I started. The ones on my '67 pointed up as I recall. From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com Date: Thu, 14 Mar 96 15:17:00 PST Subject: Jag antennae and compressor Hi - For Arthur: My '84 XJ6 electric antenna got sick and died a couple of years ago. I called every aftermarket car stereo shop in the area, but couldn’t find a reasonable price. I bought a secondhand one for $100 (after negotiation) from Jaguar Heaven. I recall a new one at the time was somewhere below $200 from XK’s Unlimited, although Welsh Jaguar in Ohio has recently advertised a pretty good price. Kind of wish I’d bought a new one - the used one is getting a little balky! For the group: Is it true that the A/C compressor in said XJ6 is a GM A-6? Does it just bolt in or do I need to do something like change the pulley or fittings? Thanks and regards, David Note to self: Send Lawrence a check for Nick’s list maintenance. from arthur---------- I have a 1986 XJ6 whose antenna motor has gone to pot. We used a burst of power to push it to full length where it receives all FM stations. It dawned on me that this wasn’t such a good situation when I thought about having the car washed and realized that I would lose the antenna. I asked my mechanic what it would take to fix it. He told me it was one more Jaguar design fail in the the antenna and the motor are all one unit and you can’t replace one without the other. How Much? Between $400-$500. Has anybody solved the problem by replacing this fitting with a screw-on antenna or a callapsible one? Many thanks Arthur P. Sultan New Canaan, CT From: blackmx5@usa.pipeline.com (Lawrence Karpman) Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 18:49:52 -0500 Subject: Re: Antenna I replaced the whole unit in my '85 XJ-6 for about $130 from Welsh’s. Larry Karpman End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #3 ****************************** Return-Path: owner-jag-lovers-digest@sn.no Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.6.12/on1) id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Fri, 15 Mar 1996 16:45:09 +0100 Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 16:45:09 +0100 Message-Id: 199603151545.QAA13862@ekeberg.sn.no From: owner-jag-lovers-digest@sn.no To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #4 Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no Errors-To: owner-jag-lovers-digest@sn.no Precedence: bulk X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest jag-lovers-digest Friday, 15 March 1996 Volume 02 : Number 004 From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com Date: Thu, 14 Mar 96 17:24:13 PST Subject: Re: Grace, space and pace… It’s worse than just low rooflines - I can usually recline the seat enough to compensate. Taller people need more leg room, too. All too often the only way to get it is to splay ones legs. I believe all of the problems originate from the low roofline. If the roofline were higher, the dash can be higher too, allowing the seats to be higher, creating more leg room. Roger Peng (408)765-7863 Intel Corporation Design Technology, Physical CAD From: John McDonagh MCDONAGJ@tui.lincoln.ac.nz Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 12:32:32 +1300 Subject: Re: MkII Door handles… Mark 2 door handles on the front doord point down! Thats the way they were on the competely original 2400 mile Mark 2 for sale here recently anyway. John McDonagh Department of Accounting Finance and Property Studies Lincoln University Christchurch New Zealand From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com Date: Thu, 14 Mar 96 17:44:23 PST Subject: re: What’s the idle RPM? The idle RMP on my Jaguar XJ6 89 is about 600. Is this correct? Sometimes the engine runs kinda rough. It feels like one of the spark plug is out. But if I step on the gas a little bit so that the RPM is at 800 the car runs smoother. If I need to increase the RPM where do I need to adjust? 600 rpm is correct. You must have some other problem, like maybe a mis-gapped spark plug or a vacuum leak. Roger Peng (408)765-7863 Intel Corporation Design Technology, Physical CAD From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli) Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 22:05:13 -0500 Subject: Re: XJS Closed Loop At 11:08 PM 3/13/96 -0800, Michael Neal wrote:
…The car is in open loop in P or N…
Is there another way (besides checking the O2 sensors) of monitoring when
the ECU goes into closed loop? Can I look for voltage or lack thereof at
the test connector or at the mutipin ECU connector?
…Most smog shops don’t know about this loop and would fail cars
on the exhaust readings alone…
I say again that I have never come across an inspection station in New
York that even hinted at this. I’ll bet that a lot of Jags fail emissions
inspections because of this! Given GMs recent experience with Cadillacs, I
can’t imagine that the Feds expect these systems to work this way, either.
Enough – Michael, my question is whether any harm is done by pulling the
connector so that P and N and hot engine give closed loop.
Regards,
John
From: “Ryan Border” border@best.com
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 19:33:28 +0000
Subject: Re: Looked at '64 E-Type
Alan Writes:
Alan writes:
I thought I'd look for some opinions from the experts. I drove to Knoxvillethis past weekend to look at a '64 S1 E-Type OTS.
there seemed to be a significant
amount of valve clacking (in my limited experience) on the intake side (dual
stomberg carbs).
I do not believe that a '64 Jag should have Strombergs- I think it
should have SU carbs.
If there’s nothing wrong with the cooling system, a common cause of
overheating can be that the carbs are adjusted too lean. This will
give “good looking” exhaust… Remember the axiom that it’s better
to be too rich than too lean.
$27K does sound a bit steep for what you describe.
Ryan.
From: WestNet mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 1996 22:41:24 -0500
Subject: Jag Rentals in UK
Last year we rented a MK II in Glasgow. The cost was $120 per day. The car
was in good-excellent shape, although it could have benefitted from a wheel
alignment.
We rented this from a car dealer located in Motherwell, just outside of
Glasgow. As I recall the name of the place was MacMillian’s. Their main
business was selling an unusual line of cars from Eastern Europe, whose name
escapes me. They also handled Honda, as I recall. A sideline of the
dealership was restoring classic cars, and brokering rentals for owners in
need of extra cash. Among the cars they had available were two Mark II’s, an
S Type, and two E’s. They also had a number of other makes, including a '37
Daimler, an MGC, a '48 Triumph, a late-40’s Riley, and a '30-something Rover.
If this isn’t enough info to locate the place, then try the travel agent we
used:
Europe Express
440 Lake Washington Blvd
Suite 101
Kirkland, WA 98033.
(206) 822-1950, (206) 822-6051 fax.
Mike Frank
Bronxville, NY
'69 E Type 2+2
From: “Peter Rebbechi” <"rebbechi peter"@a1.meoc02.sno.mts.dec.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 96 04:10:01 -0500
Subject: XJ40 headroom
For a big car, there is precious little interior room.
personally, I think that the driver gets not enough room.
I am not tall, 5’-11", and I need the seat to its lowest position to
prevent my head rubbing the roofline. In Australia, only the XJ6 did
not get the sunroof. The Sovereign and Daimler got this as std.
We did get the adjustable steering column (in and out, but not for
height?
I would have preferred height adjustable. Some of the instruments can
not be seen.
The leg room is restricted in the sideways direction by the W I D E
central console.
It does have quite some electrics and AC ducts for the rear.
BTW, I had all four shockers replaced recently, and the difference in
handling is incredible! I recommend this to anyone that is upset by
the handling of their car. It is certainly cheaper than replacing the
car!
To the gentleman who has replaced the brake accumulator, and now has a
ticking/clunking noise from the front, I also did this repair, and had
to replace the upper and lower valve modules for the ABS. Apparently
the lower module is only existent if the car originally had the
self-levelling suspension. I converted mine some time ago.
they are expensive, $400 for the upper, and $600 for the lower.
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 00:21:44 -0500
Subject: Heater Control Valve
The XJ-S, and I assume the XJ6 SI, SII, and SIII, come with a
vacuum-operated heater control valve made largely of metal. The vacuum
capsule is made of sheet metal, and the valve itself is made of cast pot
metal. It is outrageously expensive, selling for upwards of $100. It also
is very prone to corrosion and seizure.
As a result, I have been advising in my XJ-S booklet to replace this valve
with a GM valve. The GM valve is made with a plastic body with a stainless
steel shaft and butterfly, and costs about $25. I have one in my car, and
it works just fine.
Now, it looks like there may be an even better alternative – from Jaguar,
no less. Apparently the XJ40 uses a heater control valve that is entirely
plastic, and sells at local parts stores for $10. It is not a butterfly or
ball valve, but rather a poppet valve that probably does a most effective
job of assuring a total seal when closed.
It is clear from looking at this valve that it is normally open, vacuum
causes it to shut. Without opening my cooling system, I can never remember
the way the GM valve works, I only know that I confirmed that it operates
the same way as the original Jaguar piece of crap. I’m pretty sure that all
of them are normally open, though; using vacuum to hold a valve against its
seat is a pretty good practice.
Has anyone tried fitting this XJ40 valve to earlier cars? Care to share
results?
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: slim@magicnet.net
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 00:22:09 -0500
Subject: dealers
to: stephen and mathias
i’ll add to your complaint.
this time last year called local jaguar dealer for price on repairing blown
cylinder head gasket. was told about $1000 u.s. i thought o.k. DROVE
the car there as i had been driving it that way for two months with no
problems other than coolant leaking into the cylinders and causing rough
idle until it burned off.
upon arriving, was told head gasket job would be $1800. i thought let’s get
it over with. three weeks later i stopped in to check progress. the
cylinder head and miscellaneous part were all over the garage floor. i’m
told the cylinders had “melted down” the engine was junk and only a new
engine could save the car i had DRIVEN there just 3 weeks prior. still no
written estimate. when i asked why could i not simply have the head gasket
job i came there for they said it was not going to solve the problem and
would at any rate cost $2,800. had a personal conversation with all the
dealers personell down to the mechanic and all confirmed the engine that got
me there was shot.
two months prior a freind had recommended another local orlando mechanic.
i called him, told him to get a towing service and go to the jaguar dealer
and tow the car out of the dealer’s garage. the dealer offered to put the
head in the trunk with all the parts they had removed. after trying to
charge me for an air conditioning job on someone elses car i was able to
leave this dealer’s shop to get the work done.
to end story…new mechanic fixes head charges $950 u.s. adds stakedown kit
(another $250) and my melted down pistons and “shot” engine is happily
touring down the road a year and 10,000 miles later.
don’t tell me that jaguar dealership service is not part and parcel of the
history of the jaguar reliabilty reputation. these are some of the best
automobiles made, but it requires more than greed to make them run.
1987 xj6 siii, black, wire wheels, and running beautifully! thanks to a
mechanic that actually likes automobiles.
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 02:11:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Antenna Problem
Arthur Sultan wrote (in part):
I have a 1986 XJ6 whose antenna motor has gone to pot.
Between $400-$500.
Has anybody solved the problem by replacing this fitting with a
screw-on antenna or a callapsible one?I fixed mine with a $20US Pep Boys antenna (looks just like the Jaguar one
from the outside) along with a little cicuit I designed to operate it. Cost
me about $30US total. However, I’ve recently seen complete replacement
antennae in the
$150US range from either Welsch or SICP.
You can usually buy a “fully automatic” antenna from most discount parts
shops as well as J.C. Whitney. Cost is usually around $30-$35, no ingenious
wiring or installation required, just screw it in, hook it up and go. All
that is required is adequate room directly under the hole in the bodywork.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 02:11:46 -0500
Subject: Jaguar Online
I suppose it’s probably already been mentioned here and I just missed it,
but the latest flyer from Jaguar announced that they finally have
established a WWW site:
http://www.jaguarcars.com
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 96 08:24:00 MET
Subject: RE: Jag Spares day 17/3 In UK
Don’t worry Jeffrey, in 6 months time there will be another Spares day in
the same place. Think of the money that you saved!
Frans.
Hi,
I am sorry to say I can’t be in Stoneleigh for the National Jaguar Spares
day
this sunday. My wife’s family is coming to celebrate wify’s 40 years
birthday,
so I can’t find any good excuses unless I want to push being previously
married…So have fun there you lucky guys who go. If anyone on the list goes there
please
keep eyes open for a POWR-LOK rear diff for a XJ6/XJ12, in 3.31:1 or
3.07:1
or 2.88:1. If you see one please mail me a name and address and telephone
no.regards Jeffrey Gram (I’ll be in a real lousy mood on Sunday…).
From: M2747@aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 02:41:37 -0500
Subject: Jaguar Buyer’s Beware
Source: The Hartford Courant (Connecticut, USA’s #1 newspaper) 1-31-96
MAN PLEADS QUILTY IN JAGUAR SCHEME
A former Glastonbury resident has pleaded quilty to federal fraud charges
stemming from phony advertising of classic cars for sale.
Ronald Ottaviano, 48, now of Las Vegas, pleaded quilty to three counts of
fraud and faces up to 20 years in prision and a $750,000 fine, U.S. Attorney
Christoper Droney said Tuesday. Sentencing is set for April 22 before Chief
U.S. District Judge Peter C. Dorsey.
Ottaviano owned two Jaguar restoration shops, Classic Metal Works in
Manchester and Vintage Auto Works in East Hartford.
Between 1991 and 1995, he advertised in newspapers and trade magazinesthat he
had classic Jaguars in show condition for sale. Forty Two people from around
the country who anwsered the ads gave Ottaviano deposits ranging from $2000
to $38,000, after Ottaviano showed them a Jaguar that he said would restore
and deliver.
The vehicles were never delivered as promised. Prosecuters contend that the
victims’
losses totaled about $840,000, an amount Ottaviano disputes.
The case was investigated by the FBI and the Manchester police.
I read this in the paper and I thought you should know of this person before
you go out and buy the car of your dreams, only to have your heart broken…
Max
67 E-Type
68 A-Healy Sprite
71 TR-6
From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 09:10:21 +0100
Subject: Re: Jaguar Online
At 02:11 15.03.96 -0500, you wrote:
I suppose it’s probably already been mentioned here and I just missed it,
but the latest flyer from Jaguar announced that they finally have
established a WWW site:http://www.jaguarcars.com
Quite amusing to see that the official web-site gets the “Grace, Space & Pace”
wrong…
I quote:
"Jaguar Historical Library
Step back in history to the heart of Jaguar founder Sir William Lyons’
original design pledge: “Grace…Pace…Space.”
Cluelessnes is the agenda.
Nick
Nick Johannesen @ Work http://www.sn.no/home/nick/
Phone: +47-2207 3981 Fax: +47-2207 3444
From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 09:49:12 -0800
Subject: What’s Jag about a Jag?
Hi all,
I’ve been very busy lately, but this afternoon I managed to browse through a
dozen Jag-mails.
Peter Pesch says it is the shape and styling of the cars only that make Jaguar
what it is. I agree, but having said that, we also have to give some credit to
the magnificent XK engine - although not designed by Sir Bill himself, but
by his associates Bill Haynes, Walter Hassan and Claude Baily - which in a
significant way has contributed to the success of Jaguar through decades.
As to the shape of its tail pipes, the first production cars actually had
straight pipes. Jaguar, acting on complaints of exhaust fumes entering the
rear
compartment, soon fitted the S-shaped pipes which proved to eliminate the
problem(?).
I think the S-shaped tail pipes add a flare of mystery to the car. They are
certainly more elegant than the straight ones.
Cheers
Baard
______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no
From: Carl Christensen carl@domino.com
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 11:02:10 -0000
Subject: One sighting and it will prey on your mind
- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BB125E.DC9FB320
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=“us-ascii”
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
As you know there were only a few lucky observers who caught a glimpse =
of the new Jaguar XK8 for the first time at the Geneva Motor Show the =
other day.
Not to despair - within 2-3 weeks, you will be able to download a unique =
XK8 screensaver.
Watch this space - watch The Jaguar Collection at =
http://www.collection.co.uk very soon
Carl Christensen
- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BB125E.DC9FB320
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- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BB125E.DC9FB320–
From: wzehring@cmb.biosci.wayne.edu (Will Zehring)
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 07:48:59 -0500
Subject: quick question
Fellow jag-o-philes:
A minor question: regarding the ser. 1 E-type coupe: was the rear window
de-fogger standard or was it an “option?” What sorts of things were
optional on this car as new?
Will “just thought I’d ask” Zehring
From: “J.W. Beckmeyer” 73131.3076@compuserve.com
Date: 15 Mar 96 07:48:28 EST
Subject: RE:MkII door handles…
Which way do the interior door handles point - up, or down …
I replaced the panels and in my haste it never occurred to me
to take notes before I started.
What door handles? Were these an option?
Sriously though, it is down in front; up in rear.
Best regards,
Jim Beckmeyer Union CIty, MI USA
e-mail: 73131.3076@compuserve.com
90 Jaguar XJ-40-Sovereign
60 Jaguar MK II
From: “BJ Kroppe” wkroppe@ford.com
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 09:09:36 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ6 SIII A/C Compressor, other GM bits
Yes, the compressor is a standard GM item. I got one at a
local air con specialist for about US$175, rebuilt.
Also, the receiver/dryer is a standard item, which I also
got at the same place. Seems to me it was about US$40,
new.
I was surprised to learn that the cruise control bellows on
the SIII XJ6 is also a GM item. This was told to me by
a very experienced and knowledgeable GM turned Ford
engineer. He restores a lot of GM cars. (at present he is
working on a 66 Pontiac Grand Prix.)
Last, a Jaguar steering engineer told me that one of the
several varieties of steering pumps in the SIII/XJ40
time frame was from GM - Saginaw. I’m not sure how
to identify the GM pump. My pump ('82 XJ6) has an integral
reservoir, and has the word “METRIC” cast into the pump
housing. I researched at Murray’s Auto Parts here in Detroit
and both standard thread and “metric” steering pumps are
manufactured by an aftermarket supplier. Name doesn’t
spring to my mind, though. Price for the “metric” pump
is US$135. (New or rebuilt, I don’t know).
BJ Kroppe - '82 XJ6
From: “Kevin P. Campbell” kckckc@qni.com
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 08:40:04 -0800
Subject: First posting & ?
Hello. I,m driving an 85 XJ-6 with 93K on the clock. I’ve owned it for
the past year and it’s been relativly trouble free until… Just
recently,within the past 4 months or so, the BW66 xmission has been
acting up. It occassionally does not want to engage when shifted into D.
This happens when the xmission is either warm or cold. It does not
display the “typical” morning sickness symptoms. It may go for day
without any indication that there is any difficulty and then lapse into a
few days of being a real nuisence. It can be corrected at times by
shifting from R to D.( x 10-30) I’ve had it to the dealer and had the
valve body cleaned as that was the first suggestion in the service
manual, but to no avail. Time for a new xmission?(1,100 + 500 labor). I’m
hoping someone out there may have had a similar difficulty and might
possibly shed some light on the solution. Oh, when it does not engage it
is more of a partial engagement,or slipping. All the shifts are normal
and trouble free when it is engaged. Thanks. Kevin in Kansas City,
Missouri. USA
From: “Alan Johnston” alan_johnston@ed22qm.msfc.nasa.gov
Date: 15 Mar 1996 09:53:08 -0600
Subject: Pass on the '64
Minimalist Mail Pass on the '64
Thanks to Chip, Peter, John, Ryan, Lloyd, and Craig for their responses to my
inquiry about the '64 E-Type S1 roadster.
The general consensous is that at $27.5K the car was either over priced, or
WAY overpriced, based on the true condition of the engine and the actual nature
of the restoration. I would agree, and I’m glad my decision was so well
supported by this list. In the year or so that I’ve been on jag-lovers, I think
I’ve learned something :-).
The main reason I didn’t examine it in great detail while I was there is
because I was almost immediately uncomfortable with its condition/price ratio. I
think I knew enough to have the gut reaction to run away - no rose covered
glasses here ;-).
The search continues. I’ve been on this list for a year or so, read a book
or two, been to a couple shows, looked at a few jags, been reading Hemmings
since May '95, and have a savings account set aside for the purchase. I’m ready
to find the right car, but I’m patient enough not to blow my doe on the first
pretty jag to come along. I’ll be planning a trip to the Atlanta, Georgia region
soon, as I’ve seen several adds in Hemmings for cars in the area.
Wish me luck, and thanks for the continued support!
Alan
Alan_Johnston@ed22qm.msfc.nasa.gov
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #4
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jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 16 March 1996 Volume 02 : Number 005
From: FastCats@terrysjag.com (Terry’s Jaguar Parts)
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 10:15:33 -0600
Subject: Generator Pully
At 09:59 PM 3/12/96 -0800, Hunt Dabney wrote:
Hi!
I ordered a new alternator pulley from Terry’s and got just that - an
alternator pulley! That’s OK, as it is what they said, but I was kind of
hoping that I could replace my chipped generator pulley with it. Not to be -
the diameter is about 2/3 that of a gen. pulley.
I’ve checked around here with no luck. Does anyone have a suitable pulley
rusting away that they would be willing to sell? Mine has a big enough chip
in the front edge to chew the front edge of the belt up pretty badly. This
is the wide, flat double-V belt.
Thanks!
Hunt
Hunt,
Just read note on the Jag-lovers mailing list ref your ordering an
alternator pully, when you really wanted a generator pully. Terry’s will
of course be happy to take back the alternator pully for a refund, since
you can not use it.
We do not have any new generator pullys, but We can supply a used
(unchipped) generator pully for $35.00.
Let me know if we can be of further help,.
Jerome
/__ / / / / _ \ Terry’s Jaguar Parts
/ / _ / / / /_/ / FastCats@terrysjag.com
/ / // / / / ___/ FAX: 618-438-2371
/ / / / / / / Voice: 800-851-9438
// _/ /_/ “http://www.intrnet.net/~terryjag/terrys.html”
From: “Alan Johnston” alan_johnston@ed22qm.msfc.nasa.gov
Date: 15 Mar 1996 10:20:32 -0600
Subject: JCNA Jag show
Minimalist Mail JCNA Jag show
Hey everyone,
Last year my wife and I went to the JCNA Concourse show at Churchill Downs
in Louisville, KY. I just got off the phone with the lady who coordinates it
(Sonya Hallbauer, 812-537-1701), and it looks like the show will be held May
17-19 this year.
The show had quite a few jags of all marquis, and was quite enjoyable. I
spoke to Nick about sending him some of my pictures, but I never did get around
to it. Maybe we can have a big show of support this year from the Jag-Lovers
list.
I asked Mrs. Hallbauer if she was aware of the Jag-Lovers list, but she was
not. She admitted that she was not yet into the computer age.
For those of you who care, when my wife and I got to the show last year, we
were surprised to discover that the show was a combined JCNA Jag show and Chevy
show. There were probably 80+ Jags on one portion of the field, and some 100+
chevys on another portion of the field. Being Corvette owners and Jag lovers,
Luci and I were thrilled.
Mrs. Hallbauer will be sending me a packet soon, and I'll pass on more info
when I get it. Feel welcome to call her at the number above. She is very
friendly and talkative.
Oh, one last thing, Luci and I won't be able to attend this year :-( :-(,
as we will be in Germany that weekend :-). Have fun if you go!
Alan
Alan_Johnston@ed22qm.msfc.nasa.gov
From: CLGIBERT@life.uams.edu
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 10:17:06 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: looked at '64 E-type
Alan Johnston wrote that he had looked at a '64 E-type OTS. He mentioned that
it had dual Stromberg carbs. These were not introduced until the series 2 cars
came out. I would be very careful to check the engine and cylinder head numbers
on this car to be sure that they are correct (see plate on R side of engine
compartment). The Strombergs significantly harmed performance, and as a resuoltthe original triple SU setup on a log manifold is in high demand. Prices for
a non rebuilt setup start at about US$900. On second thought, a '64 is probablya 3.8 liter car which would not have a log manifold, but rather a separate
two runner manifold for each of the three SUs. 27.5k sounds steep for a poorly
running car, although a pristine body is of prime importance. Engine rebuildingcan cost 3-5000 dollars, and a front suspension overhaul $1-2000.
Good luck,
Chris Gibert
Univ. of Arkansas College of Medicine
'67 E-type OTS
'58 MGA
From: “mark (m.d.) roberts” markdr@bnr.ca
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 10:34:00 -0500
Subject: Re:Looked at '64 E-Type
Alan:
I just read your note on the '64 E-type. My first impression
is to just walk away from this one. The owner and/or restorer
don’t sound to me that they know what they are doing/saying.
The first point is “The rebuilder/restorer ditched the stock
engine-driven fan and replaced it with an electric fan
(configured as a pusher for some unknown reason).”
The E-type NEVER had an engine driven fan. The series 1 E-type
has a single whimp-o-matic fan that was intended to be useful (barely)
for stop and slow speed moving, but the natural ducted flow
at speed should be more than sufficient to cool the engine
if the radiator has been re-cored. The pusher fan is trying
to defeat this natural flow, so at some point, when the incoming
and fan flow are equal, the radiator will be getting no cooling.
I’m not sure what speed this will be at, but it will probably
still be low speed, unless the fan is REALLY BIG. So the
problem with the over-heating is due to something else.
A problem will occur if the car has a 3.8L engine, and the
thermostat is out of a 4.2L engine (the size is cast into the
block on the froward intake side…check it out). The thermostats
are not interchangable, as the 3.8L has a bypass so that the water
can circulate when cold, whereas the 4.2L will shut down completely
when cold. There is also the possibility that a poor after-market
header tank was installed which does not have the required internal
baffles for correct flow, effectively cutting out the radiator.
Is the radiator cold when the engine over-heats ?
The second point is “on the intake side (dual stomberg carbs).” For
1964, both 3.8L and 4.2L E-type engines had triple HD8 SU carbs. If
the engine has dual strombergs, then it is probably a '68-on engine,
and may not even be out of an E-Type. Check the engine serial
number…it’s stamped in the block above the oil filter. Also read
the ID plate to know what the engine number should be. For a '64
E-type, the engine number should be RAxxxx-9 for a 3.8L, or
7Exxxx-9 for a 4.2L engine. E-type engines had serial numbers
Rxxxx-9, RAxxxx-9, 7Exxxx-9, 7Rxxxx-9.
The next point is “The other problem with the car is that it
didn’t “track” well. That was how the owner phrased it.” This could
be due to a whole pile of things, any and all of which should
have been taken care of by the restorer. If the car has had a frame
off repair/re-paint, then the front suspension would have come apart
and required re-aligning. At this point, all the front ball joints,
bushings and steering components should have been examined and taken
care of. This makes me think that the restorer is not that competent.
It also makes me wonder what is under all that nice BRG paint, and
what other mechanical nightmares are awaiting the next owner. I would
also be suspicious of the rear end mountings. If these were bad/
worn/rusted out, the car would also not “track” well.
The hardtop is a nice feature. They are not that common, and I think
the going rate for one found is ~$1500.
The price is way too high. For the serious nature of the problems
you have described, the car potentally may need a re-rebuild, thus
it is worth the price of an unrestored car. In addition, if it
is not original, ie the wrong engine, then the price is even lower.
I would check serial numbers of the engine, the frame,
transmission and body compared with the numbers on the ID plate.
The engine number should also be stamped in the head, at the
front between the two cam covers…make sure the block and head
numbers agree; the frame number is on the picture frame right
above the right upper shock mount; the transmission number is
on the top cover of the transmission…you need to take the
radio console, centre console and transmission access panel
out to see it…do it anyway; the body number should be on
an aluminium tag on the left inner fender visible from the
trunk (boot).
Let us know what you find so that we can give you further
suggestions if you would like. If the car is good, then
you will not be disappointed; if it is a wreck, you will
be very frustrated, and broke.
Regards, Mark R.
Mark Roberts Phone (613) 763-2924
Ottawa, Ontario, CANADA Fax: (613) 763-3970
1988 VDP - SIII V12 email: markdr@bnr.ca
1963 3.8L E-Type Coupe - 15 years into a 3 year project
From: “White, Dick” white@msgate.columbiasc.ATTGIS.COM
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 96 10:54:00 edt
Subject: RE: Fuel tanks & head pictures
From: White, Dick
To: Daniel S. Hayes; jag-lovers
Subject: RE: Fuel tanks & head pictures
Date: Thursday, March 14, 1996 1:15PMHi all,
I sent them to him in JPEG format. The amount of compression
realized is quite significant - 1.2 MB .bmp files became 70 KB
.jpg files. I used Aldus Photostyler and Altamira Composer. I
believe that one of those two will import images in the Kodak
format. I’ll check tonight. If someone would like to send me
a test file I will try it out.
I checked and both Aldus Photostyler and Altamira Composer will input files
from Kodak PhotoCD’s. The file extension noted is ‘.pcd.’ If the file
extension on the flex returned from the developer is also .pcd I’m sure it
will work. The programs will export in various formats including TIFF, GIF,
BMP, and JPEG. Again, if someone would like to send me one I’ll try to
convert and send back. I’m no pro by any means but I’ve had a lot of fun
playing with these applications.
Regards,
Dick White
Columbia, SC
'64 3.8 S-Type
'58 XK 150 FHC
From: Daniel S. Hayes
To: jag-lovers
Subject: Fuel tanks & head pictures
Date: Wednesday, March 13, 1996 7:35PM
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 15 Mar 96 11:05:49
Subject: Re: Dealer’s competence or otherwise
Whew! what a horror story! At least you fought back…
Can’t comment from direct experience myself, as I don’t have the funds
(besides, why should I pay someone to play with my toy?) but I have rectified
a few dealer-committed atrocities done to my XJC before I bought it:
-
Unspeakable installation of aftermarket cruise control, which forced bonnet
to be mounted too high at front and shaking to pieces as a result. -
Allegedly overhauled PAS pump, which had clapped-out vanes and housing with
severe chatter marks causing shrieking noise. PO was charged for new vanes and
housing, and the shriek was declared the fault of the steering rack… -
Bad (re-used) inlet manifold gaskets leaking so much that warm idle could
not be brought down below 1,500 rpm (after changing auxiliary air valve).
-
- Jan
From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 14:39:36 -0500
Subject: need a painter
Does anyone know of a good painter and bodywork shop in the US in the North
Carolina, Virginia, South Carolina vicinity ?
I’m having a hard time finding anyone interested in small bodywork and total
paint job on my XJS who is capable of restoration quality work.
Thanks, Julian Mullaney
From: “Kevin P. Campbell” kckckc@qni.com
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 15:25:05 -0800
Subject: BW66Xmission
Hello,Anyone out there know the mysteries of the BW66 xmission?I’ve got
an 85 XJ6 with @ 93000 on the clock and it has just recently started to
slip a bit when you attempt to engage Drive. It doesn’t do it all the
time mind you,and it really doesn’t matter wether it ( the Xmission) is
hot or cold. (not in the morning sickness catagory.) Shifting from “R” to
“D” numerous times seems to correct the problem. The valve body has
recently been cleaned by the dealership. No help. When it engages all the
shifts are right on target. It will go days as if there is nothing wrong,
then it has it’s spells. Any ideas? Kevin in Kansas City,Mo. USA
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 14:01:29 -0800
Subject: Re: quick question
You wrote:
Fellow jag-o-philes:
A minor question: regarding the ser. 1 E-type coupe: was the rear
window
de-fogger standard or was it an “option?” What sorts of things were
optional on this car as new?Will “just thought I’d ask” Zehring
If I am reading my Porter’s correctly the heated rear screen was
standard from July '67 …
kind regards
tony
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
From: “Daniel S. Hayes” danh@Intelus.Com
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 20:26:33 -0500
Subject: RE: Fuel tanks & head pictures
At 10:54 3/15/96 edt, you wrote:
From: White, Dick
To: Daniel S. Hayes; jag-lovers
Subject: RE: Fuel tanks & head pictures
Date: Thursday, March 14, 1996 1:15PMHi all,
I sent them to him in JPEG format. The amount of compression
realized is quite significant - 1.2 MB .bmp files became 70 KB
.jpg files. I used Aldus Photostyler and Altamira Composer. I
believe that one of those two will import images in the Kodak
format. I’ll check tonight. If someone would like to send me
a test file I will try it out.I checked and both Aldus Photostyler and Altamira Composer will input files
from Kodak PhotoCD’s. The file extension noted is ‘.pcd.’ If the file
extension on the flex returned from the developer is also .pcd I’m sure it
will work. The programs will export in various formats including TIFF, GIF,
BMP, and JPEG. Again, if someone would like to send me one I’ll try to
convert and send back. I’m no pro by any means but I’ve had a lot of fun
playing with these applications.Regards,
Dick White
Columbia, SC
'64 3.8 S-Type
'58 XK 150 FHC
That’s great, if “pcd” is indeed the extension. Are you suggesting, to
those of us that do not have the application to convert the images, that we
can send them to you for conversion?
Daniel S. Hayes
2200 Wilson Blvd., #102-226
Arlington, VA 22201
danh@intelus.com 64 3.8 Series I E-Type Coupe
301-990-6363x263 301-330-6707 Fax
March 15, 1996
8:25 pm
From: Craig Burlingame burlingc@belnet.bellevue.k12.wa.us
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 18:08:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: XK8
I just got back from the AGM for the Jaguar Clubs of North America
meeting in San Fransico and had a chance to view a videotape of the new
car prepared specially for this event by Jaguar Cars, Inc. The design
and shape of the car was really quite stunning and judging by the
reaction of the crowd, most seemed to be quite pleased with this new XK8.
In addition to the turn-table view of the car, the video also showed a
clip of the car under speed, presumably the one car WITH an engine. It
looked both feline and ferocious as it ran through its paces around the
Jaguar test track. Of course I’m sure it will look much different in the
flesh when we actually get to see one, but we were told the only one in
North America was currently in Mawah, New Jeresey.
I rather liked the treatment on the front end and sides, but came away a
little dissapointed with the rear end treatment. Jaguar, like so many
others add a little too much bulk to the rear end producing a somewhat
busseled up rear end look and lacks the defining, almost sexy line of its
35 year old brother, the E-type.
- -Craig Burlingame
'72 SI XJ6
From: jello@dns.ida.net (Phil Bates)
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 19:30:36 -0700
Subject: For sale: '77 XJ12L in PA
This will be an odd message, but some guy called me out of the blue, and
said his neighbor has a 77 XJ12L for sale cheap. How cheap I don’t know,
but he said it has no rust other than on the bumpers, and the wheel chrome
has gone bad. The car is dark blue, and has a rebuilt V-12 with less than
100 miles (rebuilt 3 years ago, and starts right up). Unfortunately, the
transmission is slipping, but he claims the car is solid, and the engine
purrs like a kitten. He says it is a condition 2 or 3 car, but it sounds to
me like a condition 4 (on a 6 scale from the Old Car Price Guide) that could
be easily made into a condition 3 with new wheels, bumpers, and a rebuilt
transmission.
As I said, I haven’t seen the car, but this is what the guy tells me. I am
acting as a filter for this guy, so if you’re really interested, send me
E-mail, and I’ll give you his name and number. I’m not sure exactly how
much he wants, but all indications were that it is really a value. I’d buy
it myself, but I am 3000 miles away now, and I have too many projects already.
Phil Bates
67 MGB
75 Jaguar XJ12C
52 MG TD replicar (VW)
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 20:59:50 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: BW66Xmission
On Fri, 15 Mar 1996, Kevin P. Campbell wrote:
Hello,Anyone out there know the mysteries of the BW66 xmission?I’ve got
an 85 XJ6 with @ 93000 on the clock and it has just recently started to
slip a bit when you attempt to engage Drive.
Kevin,
While the BW65 and 66 transmisions seem to work smoothly when they are
functioning normally, you can really be in a pickle when they don’t.
I’ve not found anyone who really wants to work on them, and a rebuild or
replacement-in-kind is usually expensive. They just aren’t very robust.
When my BW65 (99% the same as a BW66) went out, I replaced it with a BW12
from a SI XJ6. It shifts a little harder, but it’s a lot tougher. You also
have to add a micro switch for an electric kickdown, but that’s no big
deal. There have been several postings on this list about converting to
GM 350 and 400 trannys, too, so check the archives.
Hope this helps. As always, YMMV.
Larry Lee
From: “Shelly Bolden, Ext. 4770” bolden@BBN.COM
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 96 23:20:28 EST
Subject: Wiper Delay
Jag Friends,
The “delay mode” of my windshield wipers has gone south again! Instead
of making a full sweep across the windshield, it now makes a 50% sweep,
delay, 25% sweep, delay, 50% sweep etc… It’s really aggravating when
it stops in front of your face. ;(
This happened before, but I had to take the car in for other service
at the time. The dealer charged $20 US to replace a fuse.
Does anyone know what fuse this is? Type of fuse? Where it is located?
Thanks in advance,
Shelly
90’ XJ40 Sovereign
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 1996 21:44:18 -0800
Subject: Re: quick question
Will-
No defrost on mine, and no apparent provisions. Mine is #117, so probably
qualifies as a true SI.
Hunt
At 07:48 AM 3/15/96 -0500, Will Zehring wrote:
Fellow jag-o-philes:
A minor question: regarding the ser. 1 E-type coupe: was the rear window
de-fogger standard or was it an “option?” What sorts of things were
optional on this car as new?Will “just thought I’d ask” Zehring
From: Curranrj@aol.com
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 11:33:09 -0500
Subject: Correct Red for '69 E-Type
I am about to have a 1969 XKE repainted and the new color appears to be
brighter [oranger?] than the original. It is a difficult comparison to make
because of the age of the old paint. In fact, the original paint can only be
found in the interior of the car where it was never buffed out and might have
had an adhesivie sprayed over it.
Does anyone have the correct paint numbers for this car? The ones I have
supposedly came from Dupont as a match for the original, but I would like to
confirm it before the car is sprayed.
Bob Curran
Seattle WA
From: Curranrj@aol.com
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 11:55:50 -0500
Subject: Correct Red for '69 E-Type
I am about to have a 1969 XKE repainted and the new color appears to be
brighter [oranger?] than the original. It is a difficult comparison to make
because of the age of the old paint. In fact, the original paint can only be
found in the interior of the car where it was never buffed out and might have
had an adhesivie sprayed over it.
Does anyone have the correct paint numbers for this car? The ones I have
supposedly came from Dupont as a match for the original, but I would like to
confirm it before the car is sprayed.
Bob Curran
Seattle WA
From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 11:12:07 -0800
Subject: Re: Wiper Delay
Shelly,
First thing to do here is check to make sure that the wiper arm is
bolted on securely. Grab the arm and see if can move it easily. There
is a nut under a cover on the base of the arm if it is loose. The shaft
isn’t actually splined, it is a conical pressure joint. If the motor is
parking and the arm is loose just turn the wipers off and place the arm
in the parked position and tighten the nut.
$20 to replace the fuse is fairly normal. It is located on the
wiper control module under the right hand underdash scuttle panel. This
is the panel that the passengers knees butt up against. The panel is
not easily removed because it is easily damaged. Before you go after it
check for battery power at the red/slate wire at the harness side of the
wiper connector. This is the line to the inline fuse under the dash.
If the fuse is blow be sure to replace it with a 7.5A instead of the 5A
it comes with. I actually use a 10A. Under heavy wiper load conditions
the 7.5A can blow and I’ve had no problems with the 10A.
If the fuse is ok then your park switch in the motor is probably
bad. The cover is held on by 4 screws, some of the cars use a TORX head
screw. For light use TORX it is possible to remove them with an allen
wrench that fits snugly. The park switch is a standard microswitch. It
is available at most electronic stores for a couple of bucks. Don’t try
to get it from Jaguar, it’s $20 from them and you have to use an XJS
kickdown switch. Make sure the wiring harness connector is disconnected,
it is very easy to blow the in-line fuse. The switch just mounts on two
pins that are attached to a plastic plate. The plate pivots for
adjustment and is secured by one screw. To adjust the switch turn on
the wipers after you reconnect the wiring and connectors. With the
motor spinning you will see a cam lobe on the center shaft, move the
switch and plate assembly in toward the cam. Set the position right at
the point where the cam depresses the switch fully. At this point the
wipers should park. Secure the adjustor screw and reassemble.
So you see, $20 may have been one heck of a bargain here.
Shelly Bolden, Ext. 4770 wrote:
Jag Friends,
The “delay mode” of my windshield wipers has gone south again! Instead
of making a full sweep across the windshield, it now makes a 50% sweep,
delay, 25% sweep, delay, 50% sweep etc… It’s really aggravating when
it stops in front of your face. ;(This happened before, but I had to take the car in for other service
at the time. The dealer charged $20 US to replace a fuse.Does anyone know what fuse this is? Type of fuse? Where it is located?
Thanks in advance,
Shelly
90’ XJ40 Sovereign
From: “White, Dick” white@msgate.columbiasc.ATTGIS.COM
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 96 16:03:00 edt
Subject: RE: Fuel tanks & head pictures
From: Daniel S. Hayes
To: white
Cc: jag-lovers
Subject: RE: Fuel tanks & head pictures
Date: Friday, March 15, 1996 8:26PMAt 10:54 3/15/96 edt, you wrote:
From: White, Dick
To: Daniel S. Hayes; jag-lovers
Subject: RE: Fuel tanks & head pictures
Date: Thursday, March 14, 1996 1:15PMHi all,
I sent them to him in JPEG format. The amount of compression
realized is quite significant - 1.2 MB .bmp files became 70 KB
.jpg files. I used Aldus Photostyler and Altamira Composer. I
believe that one of those two will import images in the Kodak
format. I’ll check tonight. If someone would like to send me
a test file I will try it out.I checked and both Aldus Photostyler and Altamira Composer will input
files
from Kodak PhotoCD’s. The file extension noted is ‘.pcd.’ If the file
extension on the flex returned from the developer is also .pcd I’m sure it
will work. The programs will export in various formats including TIFF,
GIF,
BMP, and JPEG. Again, if someone would like to send me one I’ll try to
convert and send back. I’m no pro by any means but I’ve had a lot of fun
playing with these applications.Regards,
Dick White
Columbia, SC
'64 3.8 S-Type
'58 XK 150 FHC
That’s great, if “pcd” is indeed the extension. Are you suggesting, to
those of us that do not have the application to convert the images, that we
can send them to you for conversion?Daniel S. Hayes
2200 Wilson Blvd., #102-226
Arlington, VA 22201
danh@intelus.com 64 3.8 Series I E-Type Coupe
301-990-6363x263 301-330-6707 Fax
March 15, 1996
8:25 pm
Yes, if it works I’ll be glad to. Turn around time should be fairly quick.
I don’t think it should be very hard.
Regards,
Dick White
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jag-lovers-digest Sunday, 17 March 1996 Volume 02 : Number 006
From: miurasv miurasv@ebicom.net
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 16:41:19 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Correct Red for '69 E-Type
I have the factory books. I’ll look and let you know if the paint
numbers are in there… Give me a day or two–I work nights this weekend.
AL
On Sat, 16 Mar 1996 Curranrj@aol.com wrote:
I am about to have a 1969 XKE repainted and the new color appears to be
brighter [oranger?] than the original. It is a difficult comparison to make
because of the age of the old paint. In fact, the original paint can only be
found in the interior of the car where it was never buffed out and might have
had an adhesivie sprayed over it.Does anyone have the correct paint numbers for this car? The ones I have
supposedly came from Dupont as a match for the original, but I would like to
confirm it before the car is sprayed.Bob Curran
Seattle WA
From: John D Proctor jproctor@ozemail.com.au
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 09:12:48 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Back in the group
Well after an abscence from the list for about 6 months I am finially
back. A new job, a new city and a new Jag (well at least different). I
have moved from Sydney to Melbourne and I love it! I sold my 1984 Series
III and purchased a low milage (notice we don’t say kilometreage!) 1988
XJ40 3.6L Sovereign (84K kilometres on the odometer). I swore I would
never own an XJ40 (front end styling is terrible!) but reliability issues
finally convinced me. I really like the AJ6 and ZF mechanicals a very
nice package indeed. This vehicle never had the rear suspension
hydraulics so thats one problem I won’t have to worry about.
I’ve put about 20K o the clock with one trip to Sydney and back and it is
every bit as good as the Series III on long distance trips, a real joy to
drive. It is really quite different from the Series III too as it does
not have the low end torque of the old XJ6 engine but just wait til you
hit 2500 RPM!
Well I’ve wasted enough bandwidth fo the moment now to my question. The
CAT for this vehicle runs around $850 Australian dollars from my reliable
parts shop (not Jaguar Australia). What I want to know is there anything
else which might fit this vehicle at a lower price. My CAT is under the
car (not the down pipe version). A piece of the ceramic element has
broken off an the rattle comes and goes just often enough to drive one
crazy. I feel that any CAT designed for say a 5 L V8 could do the job
but I am not a CAT expert. Can anyone shed some light on this?
On the issue of the leeper, I put one on the XJ40! A Jag without a leeper is like a kiss without a squeeze! I notice that there is a special one for the new model which is spring loaded and swings out of the way. The base looks much better too as it is a disc shaped and slightly oval. I hate to think what that would cost! John D Proctor jproctor@ozemail.com.au From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 17:53:03 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Wiper Delay Unsigned wrote:
$20 to replace the fuse is fairly normal. It is located on thewiper control module under the right hand underdash scuttle panel. This
is the panel that the passengers knees butt up against. The panel is
not easily removed because it is easily damaged. Before you go after it
check for battery power at the red/slate wire at the harness side of the
wiper connector. This is the line to the inline fuse under the dash.
If the fuse is blow be sure to replace it with a 7.5A instead of the 5A
it comes with. I actually use a 10A. Under heavy wiper load conditions
the 7.5A can blow and I’ve had no problems with the 10A.
At typical shop labor prices, $20 equates to about 15-20 minutes. Not bad
for this fuse.
However, I can not recommend changing the fuse size upwards. Jaguar fused
the park circuit seperately (and lightly) for a reason. The park curcuit
is not run through the ignition switch. It’s straight battery power. The
wiper will always park, even if the key is turned off with the wipers running.
The cars are not supposed to be so uncouth as to leave their wiper blade up
in the middle of the windshield when parked. But this also removes the (minor)
protection possiblities should the wiper jam; snow/ice, sticks, binding
linkages, the neighbor’s cat, or whatever. Turning the wipers off will not
remove power, and neither will turning the key off. So Jaguar used a minimal
fuse to protect the system. The fuse used has to be under the current draw of
the wiper motor when stalled, or it does no good.
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
From: RLDesign@aol.com
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 21:54:22 -0500
Subject: What have I done?
I did what I warn others never to do, which is buy a car on impulse. There is
now an 88 1/2 XJ40 out in my parking space. It has 84,000 miles and was
$10,200-- light metallic blue (matches my Healey) with a tan interior.
So far I’ve noticed:
Passenger front external door handle does not work
Climate control system seems a bit wonky, in that the “face” temperature bar
doesn’t seem to make an appreciable difference. Cool air still comes out on
my feet. Outside temp was about 45.
Driver’s carpet is loose and boot floor carpet is missing.
Misc. bits of plastic trim don’t fit as well as they might
Car pulls slightly to the right
We’ll see what my mechanic has to say about it on Monday.
From: “Warren A. Beatty” wbeatty@jaguar1.usouthal.edu
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 21:44:21 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Dropping out for a few months
Fellow Jag lovers, I must leave lurker status for the next four months.
I am heading to the Netherlands to do some teaching and vacationing. I
will be back in late July and will sign back on then.
Thanks for all the great info that I have gotten from reading everyone’s
posts.
Warren Beatty
82 XJ-6 Vanden Plas
67 Mk II 2.4
From: RLDesign@aol.com
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 23:18:23 -0500
Subject: What have I done?: Addendum
Neither of the passenger side doors on my “new” XJ40 open from the external
handle, though they seem to unlock and open from the inside. Hmmmm.
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 00:40:09 -0500
Subject: Standard vs. Optional
A minor question: regarding the ser. 1 E-type coupe: was the rear window
de-fogger standard or was it an “option?” What sorts of things were
optional on this car as new?No defrost on mine, and no apparent provisions.
I’m not all that familiar with what was standard and what wasn’t, but I do
know one thing: Jaguar has a history of making things standard in one
market and optional in another. Here in the US, there were almost no
options on XJ’s, because almost everything was standard. I’ve been told
that in the UK you can buy a fairly stripped Jaguar, it’s the Daimler that
comes fully equipped. And you can’t get a Daimler at all in the US, because
the name is trademarked by Mercedes.
So, when you guys talk about what was “standard” and what wasn’t, you
probably need to stipulate which market you’re talking about.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: tony goodall tony@goodall.u-net.com
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 09:44:37 -0000
Subject: Re: What have I done?
At 02:54 17/03/96 -0000, RLDesign@aol.com wrote:
I did what I warn others never to do, which is buy a car on impulse. There is
now an 88 1/2 XJ40 out in my parking space. It has 84,000 miles and was
$10,200-- light metallic blue (matches my Healey) with a tan interior.So far I’ve noticed:
Passenger front external door handle does not work
I’ve got the same, I think you have to grease the internals
Climate control system seems a bit wonky, in that the “face” temperature bar
doesn’t seem to make an appreciable difference. Cool air still comes out on
my feet. Outside temp was about 45.
same here, it was stuck servo flaps, needed new servos 40 UKP each s/hand
cheers
tony
Dr. A. Goodall http://www.u-net.com/~goodall/
From: GrateflJag@aol.com
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 08:40:35 -0500
Subject: Tours of my car’s birthplace? (tangential Jag content)
Hello.
I will be on holiday in the UK at the end of May. I would like to tour the
Jag factory in Coventry if possible (see where my car was born, etc.). Does
anyone know if the factory is open for tours, and if so how I can get on one?
I’m going to be in the area on May 28-30.
Thanks!
Mark West
gratefljag@aol.com
89 XJ-S
From: “Patrick J. Bowers” pbowers@ilk.com
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 10:51:38 -0500
Subject: [none]
I am about to install a pair of new thermastats in my 89 XJS. I
just wanted to make sure I understand the refill and bleed proceedure.
I simply open the bleed valve, fill the header tank until it will take
no more anti-freeze and then close the bleed valve and the header tank.
Next, I run the car for 2 minutes shut it down and then open the bleed valve
until I get a stream of coolant. I then open the header tank, slowly and add
coolant. I repeat the above procedure until no air is seen. Is the correct?
Any tips before I begin?
Thanks
Patrick Bowers
89 XJS
From: GrateflJag@aol.com
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 11:37:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Badges on rear of XJ-S
In a message dated 96-03-08 12:24:16 EST, you write:
For my 1989 XJ-S:
Which side is the XJ-S badge on, left or right?
One piece badge, left side.
Did the early pre-H.E. cars ever have a V-12 badge? Was the V-12 ever a
four-piece badge, or always a one-piece?
Dunno. My post-H.E. car has a one-piece V-12 opposite the plate from the
XJ-S badge.
Are the one-piece badges all mounted with little posts through holes in the
bodywork, or have later ones gone to a stick-on badge? A thin layer of
stick-on foam is usually visible if you look closely, while the post type
badges fit genuinely flush to the car.
It appears (from observation and not from investigation … afraid to tear
it) that it’s
held on with sticky foam.
Cheers,
Mark West
gratefljag@aol.com
89 XJ-S (proud of that ‘-’, too!)
From: RLDesign@aol.com
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 13:12:53 -0500
Subject: Yet more new XJ40 stuff
Hello, Jag lovers,
I don’t intend to keep bombing this list with every minor thing I find, but I
thought I might add the final few things I’ve found on my 88 1/2 XJ40:
Mechanical:
Pulls slightly to right. It has newish (90%+) BFG Touring T/A tires on it,
which aren’t original equipment. In my XJS experience, non-original rubber
does not work nearly as well as the original, but whatever. I suspect an
alignment problem.
Annoying:
Both door external handles on passenger side and the fuel filler cover don’t
work when doors are unlocked. You can open the doors from the inside, and the
filler cover with the manual release. The handles act as though they are
locked, not moving. Tony Goodall suggests some grease, which wouldn’t
surprise me as being needed, but I’m always suspicious when this stuff comes
in groups.
Passenger side font footwell has water in it. I haven’t had an opportunity to
trace the source of the leak yet. Doesn’t seem to be any real damage yet,
though whatever panel your feet rest against has warped, as you can hear it
pop back and forth if you press on it. Wasn’t there a thread on this? Oh, the
things we never think we’ll need…
Passenger side rear tailight has water in it, as does the sidelamp on the
rear at that side. The gromet is missing from the antenna. The carpet is
missing from the boot floor.
Both front carpets don’t want to stay in place. I don’t know whether this is
because the velcro which holds them down is beyond its usefulness, or what.
Driver’s seat will not go back unless you bring it all the way to the forward
position. Also, driver’s seat controls remain live even with the key out.
With all of the problems on the right side of the car, my thoughts turn to
“Accident!” However, there is no evidence of bodywork; if it has been smashed
on that side, it’s the best repair/repaint I’ve ever seen.
Finally, I don’t know if you’ve noticed, but instead of XJ40, it’s easy to
accidentally type XJ$, hopefully not an indicator of things to come!
- –Roger “Running on at the mouth” Los
From: “Peter W. Karpien” 100306.3514@compuserve.com
Date: 17 Mar 96 13:23:15 EST
Subject: Exhaust Sealed
I would like to thank all those who gave their advice on getting my Cat to seal
to
the exhaust manifold on my 85 XJ6. I forgot who suggested removing the exhuast
manifold
and attaching it to the Cat first, but this was the final solution. It took a
while and was a little
harry at times due to the wait of the manifolds and the fact I was doing the
work myself, but it
went well and now everything seems to be working wonderfully.
There is nothing like a job well done and a Jag purring in the driveway. Now if
this stupid snow
would only go away.
I would also like to add my comments about Dealers and Mechanics. So far
I have only found one mechanic I trust to work on my Jag and I’ve only had him
install new upper ball joints and control arm bushings. I do everything else
that I can.
I was fed up with this exhuast problem and had called ahead to a garage local to
were the
car is being stored for the winter. They told me to bring it in first thing in
the morning two
days from the phone call. When I brought down they didn’t remember me and said
they
probably wouldn’t get to it until the afternoon. Well… they didn’t get to it
until five in the
afternoon and they were closing at six. I was furious!
I was also informed that there was a broken bolt in the downpipe. I knew this
as I had twisted the
bolt in half myself earlier that week. He said it might take him a while to
drill it out. Now, this bolt
was smaller than the hole it was in and worse case senario would be having to
tap on it with a hammer
to get it loose.
I told him to forget it and just do my New York State inspection so I could
get the car registered
and back on the road. This was done and I picked the car up by six.
Suffice to say I would never take my car back there, and the broken bolt was
just sitting in the bracket hole
and was removed by hand. Makes you wonder.
Okay enough ranting and raving.
- -Peter
85 XJ6
P.S.
Great job on the Digest move. Thanks Nick and Scott.
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 17 Mar 96 13:48:11 EST
Subject: Back in the group
Hi John,
Welcome back, moving in australia is a long term exercise (6 months :-), and if
you travel 20000 kilometer from Sydney to Melbourne, I guess It must take 6
months for the removal company…
I suppose you meant 2000 kilometer.
I’m no catalyst expert either, but I understand they are not all alike. If to
get another type, make sure it is more than up to the job, or there would be
restrictions of catalytic function.
Engine size (volume) is not the only factor determining the size and type of a
catalyst. Different engine have different “needs” of a catalyst. Also there are
different ways of operation :
Oxidation catalyst, are operated either with lean burn engines or by adding air
to oxidize CO and HC.
Reduction Catalysts, work without addition of air such that the excess-air
factor (lambda) is less than 1 (rich mixture) and oxides of notrogen are reduced
(NOx’es).
Spark-ignition engines have maximum power with lambda < 1 (1 to 0.9) and have
minimum fuel consumption at lambda > 1 (about 1.1).
Some catalysts incorporate both the functions above and are called dual-bed
catalysts. These operate with excess-air ration of 0.9 (rich - but most
powerful).
Still, the best working catalysts are the three way regulated catalysts with a
lambda sensor in the exhaust before the catalyst. This system is able to reduce
all three pollutants when the engine is run on a stoichiometric mixture (lambda
=1 - exactly the theoretical amount of air to the fuel). The range for optimum
reduction is very narrow. For this reason the lambda sensor is in a closed loop
circuit, regulation precisely the fuel requirements.
Source : Bosch automotive handbook.
My XJ12 has a leaping Jag on the bonnet. Can’t help to think this is a
fallos-like symbol. I find it a bit like bragging and an invitation to destroy
the bonnet. I will get rid of mine when I can afford to have the holes welded up
and resprayed the bonnet. Maybe weld the leaper to the gear-knob ?.
Regards Jeffrey Gram, '78 XJ6C, '84 XJ12 Sovereign HE
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 18:27:23 -0100
Subject: Jags in mags
Just a couple of current magazines worth a mention:
“Classic and Sportscar” - April issue
- Track test of D-type XKD502. Nice pics, good story.
- Top 100 Classics, features the following Jags:
62. C-type
48. Mk2
24. XJ6/12 (wahey!)
9. Xk120
8. D-type
6. E-type- Mini Cooper
“Performance Car” - April issue
-
- “Jaguars horny new XK8”, feature, interviews
Both are UK-titles.
I just read 'em,
Nick
<<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>>
<<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>>
The Jaguar enthusiasts WWW-site <<<
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 18:27:23 -0100
Subject: Jags in mags
Just a couple of current magazines worth a mention:
“Classic and Sportscar” - April issue
- Track test of D-type XKD502. Nice pics, good story.
- Top 100 Classics, features the following Jags:
62. C-type
48. Mk2
24. XJ6/12 (wahey!)
9. Xk120
8. D-type
6. E-type- Mini Cooper
“Performance Car” - April issue
-
- “Jaguars horny new XK8”, feature, interviews
Both are UK-titles.
I just read 'em,
Nick
<<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>>
<<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>>
The Jaguar enthusiasts WWW-site <<<
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 18:27:23 -0100
Subject: Jags in mags
Just a couple of current magazines worth a mention:
“Classic and Sportscar” - April issue
- Track test of D-type XKD502. Nice pics, good story.
- Top 100 Classics, features the following Jags:
62. C-type
48. Mk2
24. XJ6/12 (wahey!)
9. Xk120
8. D-type
6. E-type- Mini Cooper
“Performance Car” - April issue
-
- “Jaguars horny new XK8”, feature, interviews
Both are UK-titles.
I just read 'em,
Nick
<<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>>
<<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>>
The Jaguar enthusiasts WWW-site <<<
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 18:27:23 -0100
Subject: Jags in mags
Just a couple of current magazines worth a mention:
“Classic and Sportscar” - April issue
- Track test of D-type XKD502. Nice pics, good story.
- Top 100 Classics, features the following Jags:
62. C-type
48. Mk2
24. XJ6/12 (wahey!)
9. Xk120
8. D-type
6. E-type- Mini Cooper
“Performance Car” - April issue
-
- “Jaguars horny new XK8”, feature, interviews
Both are UK-titles.
I just read 'em,
Nick
<<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>>
<<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>>
The Jaguar enthusiasts WWW-site <<<
From: “Fulford_Jack” Fulford#u#Jack@mail.ndhm.gtegsc.com
Date: 17 Mar 1996 11:45:36 -0400
Subject: RE: quick question
Tony,
If it was July 67 wouldn’t it be a series 1.5. I have a series 1 and I
don’t have a defogger nor do I see any hookups for one.
Jack Fulford
67 E-type
From: Anthony Parkinson on Sat, Mar 16, 1996 2:23 PM
Subject: Re: quick question
To: Will Zehring
Cc: jag-lovers@sn.no
This message was sent using a custom form that is not installed on your
server. Some information from the original message may not be displayed. To
view the complete message, ask your network manager to install the form on
your server.
You wrote:
Fellow jag-o-philes:
A minor question: regarding the ser. 1 E-type coupe: was the rear
window
de-fogger standard or was it an “option?” What sorts of things were
optional on this car as new?Will “just thought I’d ask” Zehring
If I am reading my Porter’s correctly the heated rear screen was
standard from July '67 …
kind regards
tony
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 12:53:25 -0800
Subject: RE: Jag Spares day 17/3 In UK
You wrote:
Don’t worry Jeffrey, in 6 months time there will be another Spares day
in
the same place. Think of the money that you saved!
Frans.
My partner just returned from Stonleigh today… it was very slow… few
traders and overall participation was down… not much missed
kind regards
tony
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
From: “Rennick, Kim (AS01)” KRennick@p05.as01.honeywell.com.au
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 08:15:00 EST
Subject: XJ40 Spares in MN
Can any Minneapolis-resident jag lovers suggest a couple of cost competitive
Jag spare parts shops for me?
I am making a very short business trip to Minneapolis this week, and thought
I would take the opportunity to stock up on some bits & pieces that I cant
normally afford here in Australia! (My bank wont let me re-mortgage my
house to buy Jag parts.)
Thanks for any suggestions,
Kim Rennick
|
| XJ40 3.6L Sovereign - my daily driver & weekend occupier
| Citroen BX 19 GTI - wife’s daily driver & weekend occupier
|__________________________________________________
From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 1996 23:25:18 -0800
Subject: Re: Nylon Gloves
Kirby,
Actually they were latex. The white ones are the most common and
are of decent strength. I like to change them when they get dirty or
greasy. This makes going from engine work to interior work a snap.
There is a higher grade, they are usally blue. Solvent won’t event
touch these and they are very strong. This makes them good to use when
cleaning parts.
I get mine from the pharmacy of Price/Costco. They are a type of
warehouse store. I think the equivalent store may be a Sam’s Club.
Tool dealers that go around to shops now sell them and they are
available at any medical supply house. The medical supply places like
to charge an arm and a leg.
Kirby Palm wrote:
I think you were the guy who suggested nylon gloves for auto work, saying
they came in a package of 100 for a few bucks. Where do they sell them?
Several auto parts stores have looked at me like I was nuts, and a couple
hardware stores didn’t know what I was talking about either. What are these
gloves intended for?-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | -- Palm's Postulate
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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 19 March 1996 Volume 02 : Number 007
From: “Peter Rebbechi” <"rebbechi peter"@a1.meoc02.sno.mts.dec.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 96 21:42:01 -0500
Subject: Wipers-XJ40
I had the wipers go AWOL once. Very disconcerting when you are doing
well in excess of the legal speed limits and it suddenly pours down
rain!.
I pulled in under a garage forecourt, and discovered that the nut was
simply loose on the wiper blade!. A quick tighten, and everything was
ok. I did have to reposition the arm when I stopped later, as it was
not parking in the correct location.
This is now on my regular maintenance list.
And I thought all repairs were expensive!. Some just leave you
wondering why you did not check them before.
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 18 Mar 96 11:19:30
Subject: Re: Antenna Problem
Afterthought:
A tip for people of limited intellectual attainments, such as myself -
inserting the El Cheapo power antenna, you’re likely to find that it’s maybe
half an inch too long to fit if you insert it bottom first or top first poking
out the hole in the body. The secret (which took me maybe half an hour of
fuming and fumbling to realise) is to insert the unit top first into the space
above and outside the fuel tank, then slide it back down, which gives lots of
clearance to move it up to poke through the hole.
Tip #2: keep the pass-through fittings of the genuine antenna, as the generic
one is unlikely to come up to the required very steep angle. You may have to
cut them down a bit to fit with the new thread and nut, as I did (1/8" did the
trick).
Point to watch: you’ll need to face the motor unit forward into the space
outside the fuel tank; otherwise, you won’t get the tail-light unit back in.
Wiring is no problem. Just remove the relay that controls the standard antenna
and hook the power lead of the new unit up to the existing in-line fuse (brown
lead) and hook the control wire to the existing control wire from the radio
(white+purple). Those are SII colours and may have changed
-
- Jan
** “Push to test” …… “Release to detonate” **
From: mike_israel@Merck.Com (Mike Israel)
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 1996 23:20 -0500 (EST)
Subject: ?? XJ6 - Removing Fuel Selector Switch??
Greetings All,
Another seemingly basic question. How do I remove the fuel tank selector
switch from the dash without destroying the surrounding wood? Once out can
this switch be easily disassembled and cleaned like the window switches or
does it need to be replaced.
Thanks,
mike_israel@merck.com
'86 XJ6
'77 Spitfire
'81 Rabbit Diesel
From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 09:29:00 MET
Subject: Re: Nylon Gloves
If they really are made of latex, then they are no good for car work as
latex, a natural rubber, dissolves fast in hydrocarbons. These are used for
surgical work as they give superior feel. The ones for the garage probably
are made of artificial rubber, neoprene or buna, that is suitable for
working with petrol, grease and oil.
Frans.
Kirby,
Actually they were latex. The white ones are the most common and
are of decent strength. I like to change them when they get dirty or
greasy. This makes going from engine work to interior work a snap.
There is a higher grade, they are usally blue. Solvent won’t event
touch these and they are very strong. This makes them good to use when
cleaning parts.
I get mine from the pharmacy of Price/Costco. They are a type of
warehouse store. I think the equivalent store may be a Sam’s Club.
Tool dealers that go around to shops now sell them and they are
available at any medical supply house. The medical supply places like
to charge an arm and a leg.Kirby Palm wrote:
I think you were the guy who suggested nylon gloves for auto work,
saying
they came in a package of 100 for a few bucks. Where do they sell them?
Several auto parts stores have looked at me like I was nuts, and a
couple
hardware stores didn’t know what I was talking about either. What are
these
gloves intended for?-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | -- Palm's Postulate
From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 11:41:00 MET
Subject: Mk 2 and Daimler question
Hello jag-lovers,
I’m reassembling my Daimler V8, the one with the Jaguar Mk 2 body. I have a
small body part that I think was pop riveted behind the dash board. It is
made of steel plate and has the shape and size of a Chinese soup spoon with
a hole in the small end and a hole in a small lug on the side of the large
end. The holes are the size of the standard pop rivets. But I can’t find the
corresponding holes in the body behind the dash and in my wisdom I never
made a photo of the installation behind the dash. Fortunately I managed to
reassemble the connections of the wiring this week end without problems, but
this small part baffles me. May-be one of you could inspect the region
behind the fold down panel of the dash to see if you notice such a part. It
was body color and I suppose that I took it off to be able to dissassemble
the wiring or so.
Frans.
From: “J.W. Beckmeyer” 73131.3076@compuserve.com
Date: 18 Mar 96 07:56:29 EST
Subject: RE: Latex gloves
Some months ago Michael Neal mentioned using gloves while working and now I
don’t know how I got along without them. Makes cleanup soooo easy.
I started buying them from WalMart at 4.99 dollars for 50 (25 pair) but some
weeks ago I found them at Harbor Freight for 5.95 per hundred (50 pr). The
quality was not (as I expected) inferior and they last as long as the Wal Mart
gloves. Also, Harbor Freight has them in sizes as opposed to the “one size fits
all” one often finds at the store.
For parts cleaning, you’ll obviously have to use a glove resistant to the
solvent but for routine work on the car, the latex ones work just fine.
As an aside, when friends come over while I’m working on the MK II and see me
wearing surgical type gloves, I often get some sort of wise ass comment from
them (this IS Michigan, btw, where men are men and real cars are made in
Detroit). But my reply runs along the line of “well look, when you are working
on your 55 Chev you can pretty much get by with a ten pound sledge hammer and a
Crescent wrench. But THIS is a Jaguar and when you get one of your own, you’ll
understand.”
Lord help me but I’m becoming a snobbish SOB, aren’t I?
Best regards,
Jim Beckmeyer Union CIty, MI USA
e-mail: 73131.3076@compuserve.com
90 Jaguar XJ-40-Sovereign
60 Jaguar MK II
From: William F Trimble trimbwf@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 07:48:20 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: ?? XJ6 - Removing Fuel Selector Switch??
Dear Mike and Jag-Lovers:
I had to replace the fuel changeover switch on my 85 XJ6. The
metal springs on each side of the switch had slipped over and caught on
the back side of the center panel. There was no way the switch would
come out of the panel. You might try some judicious prying around the
outside of the switch to see if it gives any. Be careful not to bung up
the thin wood veneer on the metal panel. If you get movement, it means
the ends of the springs haven’t engaged the back of the panel, and the
switch should come out.
If not, then you’ll have to remove the center panel. This means
pulling the radio out to get at the two screws holding the panel in at
the bottom. The top just slides into place.
I don’t think the switch can be fixed. It’s a complicated device
with metal springs that slide through channels and engage and disengage.
Of course, you can always jam a thin piece of cardboard in the
switch to hold it in the depressed position. I did that for a long time
before replacing mine.
Let us know what you decide to do.
Bill Trimble
Auburn, Alabama
From: Janet Angell angellj@minot.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 09:21:37 -0600 (CST)
Subject: I got my Jag
Just wanted to let all know that I finally got my Jag. Now I have some
questions to be answered. I need to get some front Shocks what are the
best but the cheapest, the bonnet latch won’t stay latched, where can I
get accesories (I need a cataloge) like the Jaguar emlem for the side of
the car, the cigarette lighter needs replaced, etc… The car runs
smooth and looks sharp. it is silver with birch interior. It has about
75000 miles, the interior needs refinshed. I am sure I will be writing
more later. Janet Angell
From: TALTMAN711@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 10:27:20 -0500
Subject: air mixer?
Hi
On my 87XJ-6, there is a movable adjuster on the dash below the radio. It is
marked “air”
There is a blue arrow pointing up on the left side, and a red arrow on the
right side. There is no explanation in my owners manual for this. I have
tried it at different settings, but I notice no difference. Explain please?
I also have the gremlins in my climate control as an earlier thread
discussed. The AC will suddenly pop on when heat is called for. What, if any,
was the resolution? I never did see where anybody finally fixed this problem.
Thanks!!
Tim Altman
87 XJ 6
72 TR 6
From: Dan Welchman Dan.Welchman@Smallworld.co.uk
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 15:39:53 GMT
Subject: Series III fuel pump current?
Dear fellow jag-lovers.
I am thinking of putting a concealed switch in the
wire to the fuel pump in my '85 series III XJ6 Sovereign
(that’s fuel injection, with the pump in the boot).
One problem… I can’t find out what current the fuel
pump draws. It isnt in my Haynes manual or in the Jaguar
manual. The wire looks pretty beefy. Does anyone know?
(I need to know the current so I can select an appropriately
rated switch).
Also, any opinions on whether to use a relay or switch the
full current directly?
thanks in advance,
Dan.
P.S. Just had an idea,… instead of a switch I could use a
completely hidden reed switch operated by a permanent
magnet - should be possible to camouflage that setup
pretty effectively!?!
(still need to know the current though).
From: Elgsweep@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 12:14:57 -0500
Subject: Re:Latex Gloves
I have been using Mechanix (brand name) gloves this winter and I love them!
They are available through various automotive scources. I get them from
Pegasus (800-688-6946). Take a close look at pit crews in Indy car Or NASCAR
and you will see them. They are very sensitive, I can pick up a washer
thinner than a dime, and you can work blind threading nuts and bolt easily (a
real advantage on a Jaguar!). They do get dirty/greasy, but you just throw
them in the wasing machine with your shop rags.
Dennis Murphy
Geneva, IL
1952 XK120
1990 XJ-S
From: REMANKING@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 13:57:43 -0500
Subject: Re: XK120 various, colors etc.
John,
Interesting information you have on the Bronze cars in Australia. I
appreciate receiving it. When I repainted my car I took a inside panel from
one of the doors that had original unfaded paint on it to the paint supply
house. The original paint matched very closely in shade the late model Jag
color which is now called “Oyster Metallic” This later color is slightly
lighter and has a little more metallic content in it though than the "50’s
vintage paint did. I had them add a slight tint to this “Oyster” paint and
used this color to paint my car. It is very close to the original base color
but has the advantage of more metalic when the sun shines on it.
I have seen a few E-type Bronze cars and the color on these cars seemed much
darker and less “lively” than what was left on the XK. I have also seen
recent pictures of the 120 fhc that is in the Coventry museum that set the
high speed 7 days record, the “Montlhery” car and it was bronze originally
but looks almost brown in the pictures I have seen, and no way matches the
surviving paint on my car (inside panels, firewall, etc.) it must have been
repainted a later color or else the photos don’t depict the color well. From
what I have read I am under the impression that the first XK120 at the '48
Earl’s court show was painted a “light bronze metallic” with biscuit and tan
interior, can you confirm this?
My car did indeed have a fawn top originally (according to the Heritage
trust)but my car was stored for 7 years initially outside (in Michigan) and
the top did not survive these first few years of it 35 year storage so I only
received a frame with the car.
Let me know a mailing address and I will send you some of the relevent Lucas
parts books. That way you can copy what you would like from them and send
them back at your leisure, I’ll also send you some pictures of my car.
Best Regards,
Jamie
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 14:22:45 -0500
Subject: El Cheapo Dash Work
I was in a Home Depot today, and noticed that they sell wood veneer. Like,
just the veneer. It is real wood (over a dozen types), real thin, with a
sticky backing – just peel and stick. Comes in a roll. The wood is
unfinished, so you can apply whatever stain or varnish you’d like after
sticking it onto whatever you’re working on.
So, is there anyone out there cheap enough to try using this stuff to
renovate the dash of a Jag? I don’t think elm burl is one of the choices,
but there are some pretty woods to choose from. Any thoughts on why this
wouldn’t work?
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: “Himes,John W.” jwh@dw.att.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 10:18:00 PST
Subject: Latex Gloves
Latex gloves are great for helping keep your hands clean when working on the
car. Just be careful to not touch hot stuff. Burnt latex on you hands
would probably not be very comfortable!
Sears also carries them in a box of 100. I think I last paid 5 to 10
dollars for a box.
The only bad things I can say about these gloves other then the powdery
residue they leave on your hands is that they grab if you are holding a
socket extention and spinning a nut off/on. The gloves do grab, even if
oily.
John Himes
88 XJ-S 92K Miles
From: Chris Howard christopher@netmanage.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 11:51:57 GST
Subject: I killed Tiffany 84xj6 dead battery
This weekend I fixed two items on my 84 xj6, including spraying around
my unknown age Sears diehard battery, installed by the PO … this
morning I turned the key and lights but no starter activity other
than the solonoid, definitely looks like I someone nuetalized my
battery… so heres the question :
What type and brand of battery do any of you recommend - I planned
on replacing the battery anyway, but I am unsure as to what
amperage and brand to choose here in california.
By the way I did fix both my sticking gas pedal and the clunking sound
in my front end this weekend---- you guys were very correct- it was
a bad worn rubber gromet on top of the shock tower on the coolant
reserve side of the car (LDH)…
thanks in advance, you guys are a life save !!!
Christopher Howard
Engineer, Technical Support Group
NetManage, INC. email me at:
10725 DeAnza Blvd. christopher@netmanage.com
Cupertino, CA 95014 our homepage:
<www.netmanage.com>
408/973-8181
408/973-8272 fax Home of the Chameleon !!
From: “Patrick O’Neill” Patrick_O@msn.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 21:36:22 UT
Subject: Jaguar MKII 3.8L Scanned original USA sales lit
Hello Nick,
Some time ago I mentioned on the mail list that I had a original USA sales
brochure for the Jaguar MKII 3.8L and that I could scan it for the Web site.
Well I have finally done the scanning. Now I just need to know if you still
would like a copy of it and if so what file format (I scanned them in
Photoshop) would you like, what pixel depth, and how may DPI?
Let me know how I can help.
Regards,
Patrick D. O’Neill
1963 MKII 3.8L
P.S. If Nick can’t put these on the Web site for any reason I could
E-mail it to anyone who wanted it.
From: jmiller@anubis.network.com (Jeff J. Miller)
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 15:42:37 -0600 (CST)
Subject: air mixer? - funky climate control
On my 87XJ-6, there is a movable adjuster on the dash below the radio. It is marked “air” There is a blue arrow pointing up on the left side, and a red arrow on the right side. There is no explanation in my owners manual for this. I have tried it at different settings, but I notice no difference. Explain please? I thought it was actually suppossed to help control which way air was diverted but my trial and error approach to the system has left me trying to determine a difference as well. I’d be glad to hear any ideas people have on this. I also have the gremlins in my climate control as an earlier thread discussed. The AC will suddenly pop on when heat is called for. What, if any, was the resolution? I never did see where anybody finally fixed this problem. Some time ago I reported this as a “funky climate control” problem. Things like I would be driving down the road perfectly warm and operational and then all of a sudden the system would switch into ultra cold mode and simply go info full air conditioning. I did much with switching to defrost (just moved the cold air to the wind screen) and playing with the temp control. Some had suggested checking the air sensor. I also went under the hood and disconnected the vacume line to force the system into defrost. All of these approaches left me “fealing cold”. I talked with my dealer (it seams I’m the only one happy with mine - kind of like an expensive whore but we won’t get into that) and they indicated the problem was most likely a defective A/C amp. Since this was a $350 part and there were no guarantees I didn’t opt to put it in. Well, after freezing my feet for most of the winter and not being able to come up with any way of prediciting failure I finally opted to put in a new amp. I hate to say this for fear the lucas gods will come after me but my feet have been happy and warm for the last 2 weeks. The amp itself is located under the access panel next to the drivers legs and is fairly easy to replace. If you can manage to get an amp on loan or borrow one for a while this would probably be a good thing to try. Jeff Jeff Miller Network Systems Corporation jmiller@network.com 7600 Boone Avenue North Minneapolis MN 55428 (612)424-1724 From: HealeyDoc@aol.com Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 17:07:47 -0500 Subject: XJ6 for sale For Sale 1980 XJ6 (no rust) White with red leather interior. Serviced regularly. Rebuilt Transmission, Will Need some engine work to pass Calif. Smog. $3,850.00 Norman Nock 209-948-8767 209-931-4710 ======================================================== British Car Specialist 2060 N. Wilson Way Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 (fax# 948-1030) Healey Doc@aol.com From: ROLindsay@aol.com Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 18:00:13 -0500 Subject: Bye E I sold my E-type and now I am very sad… Rick Lindsay, Tulsa, Oklahoma USA '66 S-type (only…) From: Jim Goring jgoring@ccnet.com Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 15:21:13 +0000 Subject: Re: Bye E ROLindsay@aol.com wrote:
I sold my E-type and now I am very sad…
Rick Lindsay, Tulsa, Oklahoma USA
'66 S-type (only…)
‘ONLY’?! now rick… don’t denigrate the proud but small band of S-type
owners… why it takes someone wh really knows… (or maybe really
DOESNT know) to stop you in the street and say ‘cool car mr…’ in your
S-type. Any fool can get a compliment in an E-type!
um… yea
-
-Jim goring
-
-65 S-type… garage queen (stuck in first gear since Jan 1…)
From: “Simon S. Johnson” johnsosi@cla.orst.edu
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 15:37:18 -0800
Subject: El Cheapo Dash Work -Reply
Kirby–
It won’t work because the sticky stuff is contact cement which will
disintegrate over time and the varying temperatures and humidities it
would be subject to in an automobile.
Why not go to a specialty wood supplier, tell him what you want, and
have him cut you a slice as thin or thick as you want; then you get a
good glue and put it on under pressure.
Cheers,
Simon
Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu 3/18/96, 11:22am >>>
I was in a Home Depot today, and noticed that they sell wood veneer.
Like, just the veneer. It is real wood (over a dozen types), real
thin, with a sticky backing – just peel and stick. Comes in a roll.
The wood is unfinished, so you can apply whatever stain or varnish
you’d like after sticking it onto whatever you’re working on.
So, is there anyone out there cheap enough to try using this stuff to
renovate the dash of a Jag? I don’t think elm burl is one of the
choices, but there are some pretty woods to choose from. Any
thoughts on why this wouldn’t work?
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: HealeyDoc@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 19:59:07 -0500
Subject: XJ 6 for sale
For Sale
1980 XJ6 (no rust) White with red leather interior. Serviced regularly.
Rebuilt Transmission, Will Need some engine work to pass Calif. Smog.
$3,850.00
Norman Nock 209-948-8767 209-931-4710
British Car Specialist 2060 N. Wilson Way Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767 (fax# 948-1030) Healey Doc@aol.com
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To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 19 March 1996 Volume 02 : Number 008
From: GrateflJag@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 20:33:28 -0500
Subject: Re: air mixer?
In a message dated 96-03-18 10:57:52 EST, you write:
On my 87XJ-6, there is a movable adjuster on the dash below the radio. It is marked “air” There is a blue arrow pointing up on the left side, and a red arrow on the right side. There is no explanation in my owners manual for this. I have tried it at different settings, but I notice no difference. Explain please? This lever controls the differential temperature between the air coming at your face and that blowing on your feet. When the lever is slid to the left (towards blue) the face air is cooler than that at your feet. When the left is slid to the right (red), the face air is warmer than the footwell air. It’s only a few degrees of temperature difference, yet you should notice that you can make the air coming out of the large central dashboard vent on A/C seem a little cooler (or stronger?) in the summertime when the lever is left, and the heat warmer when the lever is to the right. Cheers, Mark West gratefljag@aol.com 89 XJ-S From: doug@psy.uwa.edu.au (Doug Robb) Date: Tue, 19 Mar 96 10:41:17 CST Subject: djdjkd From: doug@psy.uwa.edu.au (Doug Robb) Date: Tue, 19 Mar 96 10:42:36 CST Subject: hdhdhd From: “Sleeman, Chris (Exchange)” ChrisSl@mel.praxa.com.au Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 13:30:33 +1000 Subject: RE: Bye E All, I must have been under the wrong impression. I thought the only place one could buy an E-type was at an estate auction. Does this mean that people actually sell them before they die? I know I never would if I owned one. Chris Sleeman
I sold my E-type and now I am very sad…
Rick Lindsay, Tulsa, Oklahoma USA
'66 S-type (only…)‘ONLY’?! now rick… don’t denigrate the proud but small band of S-type
owners… why it takes someone wh really knows… (or maybe really
DOESNT know) to stop you in the street and say ‘cool car mr…’ in your
S-type. Any fool can get a compliment in an E-type!um… yea
-Jim goring
-65 S-type… garage queen (stuck in first gear since Jan 1…)
From: Craig Tiano ctiano@voicenet.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 22:10:42 -0500
Subject: Re: El Cheapo Dash Work
At 02:22 PM 3/18/96 -0500, you wrote:
I was in a Home Depot today, and noticed that they sell wood veneer. Like,
just the veneer. It is real wood (over a dozen types), real thin, with a
sticky backing – just peel and stick. Comes in a roll. The wood is
unfinished, so you can apply whatever stain or varnish you’d like after
sticking it onto whatever you’re working on.So, is there anyone out there cheap enough to try using this stuff to
renovate the dash of a Jag? I don’t think elm burl is one of the choices,
but there are some pretty woods to choose from. Any thoughts on why this
wouldn’t work?-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | -- Palm's Postulate
If your dash is like that of the Mark 7-10, 420, 420G, or DS420 with round
gauges where the wood has been “shrunk” into the holes, you’ll probably
fiond the veneer at Home Depot to be ineeffective. The product’s adhesive
will fall off when you saturate the wood with steam to mold it into the
convex shape required to go around the gauge holes. However, for something
like the “ski slope” on the newer Jags, this would be a worthwhile
replacement, if you weren’t concerned with authenticity or grain match.
Why limit yourself to “repairs”? You could give yourself a completely
luxurious feel to your XJS by putting in some proper wood trim on the doors.
And if you were really into it, you could do that woodgrain “country squire”
look by running a big wide stripe down the side of the car on the outside.
Craig “MY DS420 already has too much wood” Tiano
Craig Tiano
- ---- Mail ---- ctiano@voicenet.com
- – Homepage – http://www.voicenet.com/~ctiano/index.html
==========================================================
From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 19:05:10 -0800
Subject: Re: Nylon Gloves
Latex gloves work just fine for car work. I’ve been using them for
over ten years! The idea is not to stick your hands in hydrocarbons.
The whole idea here is to have a glove that you change when it starts to
get dirty. If exteme exposure to hydrocarbons is necessary then the
blue hydrocarbon resistant type are used. This is only necessary if you
are working with fuel or cleaning parts.
Frans HOEKEMEIJER wrote:
If they really are made of latex, then they are no good for car work as
latex, a natural rubber, dissolves fast in hydrocarbons. These are used for
surgical work as they give superior feel. The ones for the garage probably
are made of artificial rubber, neoprene or buna, that is suitable for
working with petrol, grease and oil.
Frans.Kirby,
Actually they were latex. The white ones are the most common and
are of decent strength. I like to change them when they get dirty or
greasy. This makes going from engine work to interior work a snap.
There is a higher grade, they are usally blue. Solvent won’t event
touch these and they are very strong. This makes them good to use when
cleaning parts.
I get mine from the pharmacy of Price/Costco. They are a type of
warehouse store. I think the equivalent store may be a Sam’s Club.
Tool dealers that go around to shops now sell them and they are
available at any medical supply house. The medical supply places like
to charge an arm and a leg.Kirby Palm wrote:
I think you were the guy who suggested nylon gloves for auto work,
saying
they came in a package of 100 for a few bucks. Where do they sell them?
Several auto parts stores have looked at me like I was nuts, and a
couple
hardware stores didn’t know what I was talking about either. What are
these
gloves intended for?-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | -- Palm's Postulate
From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 15:01:16 +1100 (EST)
Subject: Re: – The Jag-list Fund –
Hi guys,
I’ve had quite a response from locals regarding fund contributions in
Australian currency. As everyone has pointed out, I had forgotten to
give an address, so here it is.
Robert Dingli
PO Box 532,
Ringwood, 3134
Victoria
Australia
Thanks for the replies,
Robert
To make life easier for Lawrence and local members, I’d be happy to manage
the collection of funds from Australia/New Zealand/etc. Contributors can
make out their checks in AUD or NZD and I’ll convert it to whatever currency
suits Nick in one hit. I’ll send details to Lawrence for collation with
other contributors. The same conditions as below apply except that the
preferred currency is Australian.
Robert Dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **
From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 23:26:45 -0500
Subject: Re: El Cheapo Dash Work
At 02:22 PM 3/18/96 -0500, Kirby Palm wrote:
I was in a Home Depot today, and noticed that they sell wood veneer. Like,
just the veneer. It is real wood (over a dozen types), real thin, with a
sticky backing – just peel and stick. Comes in a roll. The wood is
unfinished, so you can apply whatever stain or varnish you’d like after
sticking it onto whatever you’re working on.So, is there anyone out there cheap enough to try using this stuff to
renovate the dash of a Jag? I don’t think elm burl is one of the choices,
but there are some pretty woods to choose from. Any thoughts on why this
wouldn’t work?
I don’t know about the “Homer” wood veneer, but I would be very leery of a
self-stick backing in an automotive application that sees rapid extremes of
temperature and humidity. Not exactly like one’s parlor. A good grade
contact cement or an epoxy is more likely the ticket. Woods with a high oil
content, like rosewood, can present special gluing challenges.
An excellent source for plain and exotic veneers, adhesives and supplies is
Constantine’s in the Bronx, New York. They mail order and have a catalog
and an 800 number.
If you want matching and/or exotic veneers – and book matched – they are
the source. Very well known and respected in woodworking circles. They
even carry veneer packages with contrasting woods in various designs,
although I doubt they have a leaper!
You will find that their products can easily give you a unique look far
superior to the diecut veneer kits commonly sold for a lot less money.
Regards,
John
From: Janet Angell angellj@minot.com
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 22:55:31 -0600 (CST)
Subject: 82 XJ6 Jag
My appologies, I was so excited and still am I forgot to put what type of
Jag. I need ya’lls expertise, I have an intermittent speedometer, Help?
Thanks Janet
From: Tom Graham TGraham@internetMCI.COM
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 21:20:30 -0500
Subject: Fwd: Series III fuel pump current?
- – [ From: Tom Graham * EMC.Ver #2.3 ] –
Subject: Series III fuel pump current?
Dear fellow jag-lovers.
Does
anyone know? (I need to know the current so I can select an appropriately
rated switch).Also, any opinions on whether to use a relay or switch the full current
directly?
I would also be interested in doing this. Plz let me know, or post to
group, what you find out and how you install it.
Cherio - Tom
From: doug@psy.uwa.edu.au (Doug Robb)
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 96 14:12:18 CST
Subject: jdjdjd
From: doug@psy.uwa.edu.au (Doug Robb)
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 96 14:13:20 CST
Subject: sorry for previous junk postings, I was testing something
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 22:42:50 -0800
Subject: Re: ?? XJ6 - Removing Fuel Selector Switch??
Mike-
The fuel computer is fairly easy to pop out by grabbing it around the edges
and pulling. Once you do this, you should be able to reach in and push out
the switch from the back (if I remember correctly).
Good luck!
Hunt
At 11:20 PM 3/17/96 -0500, Mike Israel wrote:
Greetings All,
Another seemingly basic question. How do I remove the fuel tank selector
switch from the dash without destroying the surrounding wood? Once out can
this switch be easily disassembled and cleaned like the window switches or
does it need to be replaced.Thanks,
mike_israel@merck.com'86 XJ6
'77 Spitfire
'81 Rabbit Diesel
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 22:43:03 -0800
Subject: Re: air mixer?
Tim-
I’ve seen some effect from the air mixer lever, but not enough to matter.
THe abrupt mode change in the climate control can be duw to a number of
things, but the most likely (I think), is the servo potentiometer on the
AC/Heat control servo, which is located on the right side of the center
console, ahead of hte floor vent on that side. These pots are wire-wound and
wear out. Prior to failure, they can get noisy, so the system ‘loses track’
of where it is set. It is possible to use a light oil, silicon spray, or
‘volume control cleaner’ on this part, but I’ve generally had to replace
mine when this problem has come up.
Hunt
At 10:27 AM 3/18/96 -0500, TALTMAN711@aol.com wrote:
Hi
On my 87XJ-6, there is a movable adjuster on the dash below the radio. It is marked “air” There is a blue arrow pointing up on the left side, and a red arrow on the right side. There is no explanation in my owners manual for this. I have tried it at different settings, but I notice no difference. Explain please? I also have the gremlins in my climate control as an earlier thread discussed. The AC will suddenly pop on when heat is called for. What, if any, was the resolution? I never did see where anybody finally fixed this problem. Thanks!! Tim Altman 87 XJ 6 72 TR 6 From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 22:43:05 -0800 Subject: Re: El Cheapo Dash Work Kirby- The first thing that occurs to me is that the adhesive might tend to let go after sustained high temperatures, such as a dash gets in direct sunlight. Probably would work better to use non-adhesive veneer, and do it like the pros: strip the old dash to bare wood, paint with resin glue and clamp between boards till dry, then trim and finish. Take care - enjoyed your home page, BTW. Hunt At 02:22 PM 3/18/96 -0500, Kirby Palm wrote:
I was in a Home Depot today, and noticed that they sell wood veneer. Like,
just the veneer. It is real wood (over a dozen types), real thin, with a
sticky backing – just peel and stick. Comes in a roll. The wood is
unfinished, so you can apply whatever stain or varnish you’d like after
sticking it onto whatever you’re working on.So, is there anyone out there cheap enough to try using this stuff to
renovate the dash of a Jag? I don’t think elm burl is one of the choices,
but there are some pretty woods to choose from. Any thoughts on why this
wouldn’t work?-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | -- Palm's Postulate
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 22:43:07 -0800
Subject: RE: Bye E
Chris-
If you owned one, I’m sure the though might ocasionally cross your mind
(although only briefly!) Rick may have been suffering from unusally poor
impulse control that day! (Sorry Rick!)
Hunt
'62 E FHC
'85 XJ-6
At 01:30 PM 3/19/96 +1000, Sleeman, Chris (Exchange) wrote:
All,
I must have been under the wrong impression. I thought the only place one
could buy an E-type was at an estate auction. Does this mean that people
actually sell them before they die? I know I never would if I owned one.Chris Sleeman
From: Jim Goring[SMTP:jgoring@ccnet.com]
Sent: Tuesday, 19 March 1996 1:21
To: ROLindsay@aol.com
Cc: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Re: Bye EROLindsay@aol.com wrote:
I sold my E-type and now I am very sad…
Rick Lindsay, Tulsa, Oklahoma USA
'66 S-type (only…)‘ONLY’?! now rick… don’t denigrate the proud but small band of S-type
owners… why it takes someone wh really knows… (or maybe really
DOESNT know) to stop you in the street and say ‘cool car mr…’ in your
S-type. Any fool can get a compliment in an E-type!um… yea
-Jim goring
-65 S-type… garage queen (stuck in first gear since Jan 1…)
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 22:42:53 -0800
Subject: Re: Nylon Gloves
FWIW-
I’ve used both medical and “painter’s” cheapie latex gloves and found them
to work quite well. (Former from a medical/lab supply house, the later from
Home Depot (a hardware/lumber chain in the US)). If you get carb cleaner on
them the material swells and tears, but otherwise, no problem.
Hunt
At 09:29 AM 3/18/96 MET, Frans HOEKEMEIJER wrote:
If they really are made of latex, then they are no good for car work as
latex, a natural rubber, dissolves fast in hydrocarbons. These are used for
surgical work as they give superior feel. The ones for the garage probably
are made of artificial rubber, neoprene or buna, that is suitable for
working with petrol, grease and oil.
Frans.Kirby,
From: jvheusd@hzsda01.ns-nl.att.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 96 08:21:46 +0100
Subject: [none]
whence
From: Paul Peard Paul.Peard@BankersTrust.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 10:48:18 +0000
Subject: Re: air mixer
My XJ-S has one, according to the manual it is supposed to alter the temp of the air
that blows on your face without altering the overall interior temp of the car.
It seesm to make a bit of a difference in my car, but you need to make sure the face
level (dash) vents are open, the xj-s has the facility to close the ones at the end of
the dashboard.
As to the other stuff, blowing cold when it should be hot, the following are just
guesswork that I went through before getting my heater core replaced (I got no heat -
ever) and relate directly to the xj-s but could apply to other systems (even Jaguar
wouldn’t put totally different systems is different cars ), there is a vacuum
valve the controls whether hot water gets to the heater core, maybe thats on its way
out and it periodically shutting of and letting the cold air through (all the cabin
air is a/c’d then re-heated if required). Or, the in car temp sensor (above the glove
box on the xj-s) is going nuts, you can pull the unit and short the wires (I think
that gives you a/c, so open circuit should give you heat), do you hear the servo motor
whirr when it goes cold, if so then its either being told to (the sensor) or is
possesed by Demons, if possessed, it may be the amplifier, scary price, the are about
400 GBP, but my local jag man (an a/c specialist) has built his own that fits the
connectors and costs about 125 GBP stil not cheap but better.
If the system is the same there is a section in Kirby’s book that describes the flap
adjustment (the flaps are moved by the cam when the servo whirr’s), and the vacuum
valve replacement.
For the record, the vacuum valves seem to be V V V expensice in the US, the can be had
here for about 20 GBP, but as Kirby says, the original isn’t the best peice of kit
ever made.
Hope this helps
Paul
From: Paul Peard Paul.Peard@BankersTrust.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 10:52:17 +0000
Subject: Re: Series III fuel pump current?
I don’t know the current, but if its a big wire
then you need a man sized switch and you’ll need to
run a substantial length oif cable to / from the
switch, I think a relay would be the better way to
go.
I personally don;t like the idea of the reed
switch, one good bump and it drops off.
Does the SIII have the intertia switch?, my XJ-S
has one, just to the side of the dashboard, mounted
on the door pillar, I haven’t probed around it, but
it may be possible to force it to trigger without
hitting anything!, if you do have one, thats
probably the best place to connect in your cutout.
Regards
Paul
From: Paul Peard Paul.Peard@BankersTrust.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 10:59:06 +0000
Subject: Re: Funky climate controls
Just another thought, when I had my doesn’t heat
not never no how problem with the xj-s, it was
actually worse than no heat at all. Since the
systems a/c’s all the air, its very cold, its then
supposed to pass over the heater and get nice and
warm and then in to the car, with the heater core
blocked, the system knew it was cold so turned the
fans up, pumped lots of air over the heater core
and into the car, since there was no heat, the car
got colder, the a/c system knoew I wanted it
warmer, so it turned up the fans, pumping more cold
air into the car…
I drove in gloves and an overcoat with the windows
open for 3 weeks until it got too much and I gave
it to a nice man who fixed it…
Regards
Paul
From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@compuserve.com
Date: 19 Mar 96 06:12:23 EST
Subject: Zach Zalatel - where are you?
Dear Zach, You sent me a message recently re the XK group, but it seems my
messages to you are all returned. Can you advise to me direct your correct
email address? Regards, John Elmgreen.
From: “Richard King” kingr@sabc.co.za
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 13:55:27 +0200
Subject: Re: Series III fuel pump current?
One advantage of using a relay is that you can make it a latching
relay. ie. switch on the ignition, press the concealed button ( which
can be quite small as the relay is carrying the current), and the
relay stays latched on until the ignition is switched off… if you
use a fair size capacitor across the coil, it may even stay latched
on for a second or so incase you have to restart.
The concealed reed switch idea would also favour the use of a relay.
A standard 16amp (?) horn-relay would
do the job, just ensure that the output from the contacts is looped
back to the coil, then once you’ve energised the coil it stays
energised until you kill the ign. voltage.
The beauty of this sort of anti-theft deterrant is that the car will
still start when the thief jumps in… but dies a few seconds
later, hopefully in the middle of traffic, and the thief then
abandons it… we hope!
Richard King
Johannesburg
quote ****
From: Dan Welchman Dan.Welchman@Smallworld.co.uk
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 96 15:39:53 GMT
Subject: Series III fuel pump current?
Dear fellow jag-lovers.
I am thinking of putting a concealed switch in the
wire to the fuel pump in my '85 series III XJ6 Sovereign
(that’s fuel injection, with the pump in the boot).
One problem… I can’t find out what current the fuel
pump draws. It isnt in my Haynes manual or in the Jaguar
manual. The wire looks pretty beefy. Does anyone know? (I
need to know the current so I can select an appropriately
rated switch).
Also, any opinions on whether to use a relay or switch the
full current directly?
thanks in advance,
Dan.
P.S. Just had an idea,… instead of a switch I could use a
completely hidden reed switch operated by a permanent
magnet - should be possible to camouflage that setup
pretty effectively!?! (still need to know the current
though).
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #8
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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 20 March 1996 Volume 02 : Number 009
From: “Charles Rahm” crahm@saturn.gan.net
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 09:12:20 -0500
Subject: Restoring your wood veneer dash
Dear All,
Recently Kirby wrote about using “cheap Home Depot Veneers” to
restore your dash.
About 8 years ago I disassembled my XJ series I dash - the three main
sections, four pieces.
I took the pieces to a local wood hobby shop and asked them what to
do. They took the pieces in the back and ran them on their plane.
This cut away the old cracked slick’em and some of the old veneer.
It gives you a flat new surface to work on.
The store had many types of veneer available at different prices. I
think I chose burled elm. I cant remember. I chose it because for
the price, it had many burls and was gorgeous. They sold me some
glue (3M product I think) and some new varnish stuff. I did not
stain the veneer. The color is fantastic.
Cut the basic veneer patterns leaving in the “holes” for the
guages etc. Apply the glue, letting it sit for 15 min or so getting
very sticky. Apply the veneer to the dash pieces. I dont remember
whether I had to put weights on the veneer or not. After the glue is
dry, carefully cut with an exacto knife the excess veneer off.
Then simply apply the varnish as directed.
What I’d do different:
- Do it during warm weather so the varninsh dries smoother.
- Carefully cut the glove box area out so I can use the same veneer
piece for the actual glove box lid. (Mine matches close enough)
Have fun!
Sincerely,
Charles Rahm
crahm@gan.net
71,79,87 XJ6
From: david@ipelond.co.uk (David Brown)
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 14:33:41 GMT
Subject: More money for Jaguar
I found this extract in the Electronic Telegraph =
(http://www.telegraph.co.uk).
Thought some people might be interested.
=46rom the Electronic Telegraph 19/02/96:
THE European Commission is to give the go-ahead for =A372m of UK =
government aid for Jaguar next Wednesday after the Department of
Trade and Industry agreed to changes to the package.
The decision to approve the lion’s share of the grant for a new Jaguar =
plant in the Midlands will be taken at the Commission’s meeting
on March 27.
Competition commissioner Karel van Miert, who has been investigating the =
Jaguar investment plan since last summer, is currently
blocking =A38m of the UK government aid, but agreement is expected =
between the DTI and Brussels over a restructured package which
would meet EU criticisms.
"We’re expecting a favourable decision shortly on the bulk of the =
original =A380m package, said a DTI spokesman. “It is likely to be short
by about =A38m. But we are hoping to make that up with other offers of =
help with other programmes for training and environmental
improvement.”
The grant, first announced last July, was intended to persuade Ford, =
which owns Jaguar, to build the new X200 small sports saloon at the
Castle Bromwich paint and body plant rather than in the United States. =
Jaguar had warned that unless it received the full amount of aid
promised, it would consider scrapping its =A3500m investment.
Jaguar plans to employ 1,300 at the new plant, which will also give rise =
to another 5,000 jobs among component suppliers. However, the
grant package from the government, agreed without approval from the EU, =
ran into a crackdown by EU competition commissioner Karel
van Miert on state aid.
“We must respect the EC’s decision and are happy to adjust the package =
so the remaining =A38m conforms to EU rules,” the DTI said
yesterday. “Our new proposal is nearly ready. We would expect a reply =
from Brussels almost immediately.”
Jaguar had hoped to start work at the Castle Bromwich site by the middle =
of this year and the company was believed to be growing
impatient after hopes of a decision before Christmas failed to =
materialise.
It might be a bit contraversial but I would rather the X200 was built in =
the UK
than the US. Jaguar might be owned by Ford, but it is quintessentially a =
British
company. Besides, we need the jobs!!
David Brown, IPE
david@ipelond.co.uk
///_/_/_/_/////_///_=
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/_/_/_/_/______/_/_/_/_=
__
_______/_/_/_/_/_/_/________/_/_=
__
___/_/_/////_/_/_/_/_/_=
__
____/_/_/_/_//_/_/_/_=
__
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__
From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 16:02:57 -0800
Subject: What’s Jag about a Jag.
Hi all,
I’ve been very busy lately, but this afternoon (a week ago; I havn’t been able
to deliver this b…dy message before…) I managed to browse through a
dozen Jag-mails.
Peter Pesch says it is the shape and styling of the cars only that make Jaguar
what it is. I agree, but having said that, we also have to give some credit to
the magnificent XK engine - although not designed by Sir Bill himself, but
by his associates Bill Haynes, Walter Hassan and Claude Baily - which in a
significant way has contributed to the success of Jaguar through decades.
As to the shape of its tail pipes, the first production cars actually had
straight pipes. Jaguar, acting on complaints of exhaust fumes entering the
rear
compartment, soon fitted the S-shaped pipes which proved to eliminate the
problem(?).
I think the S-shaped tail pipes add a flare of mystery to the car. They are
certainly more elegant than the straight ones.
Cheers
Baard
______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no
From: “L. W. (Bill) Clark” lwc@fforsm.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 07:20:43 -0800
Subject: Re: El Cheapo Dash Work
Constantines as previously mentioned have an excellent selection, but I was
reluctant to do mail order, and found a local lumber co. Southern Lumber in
San Jose had a reasonable selection.
It took me four hours sorting through their elm burl veneer to find the best
IMHO for
a bookend match. If I recall correctly it was around $20 for a 30" x 10" sheet
I had stripped (sanded) the old veneer off, used a commercial grade contact
cement for adhesive, and finished with a diluted teak oil for staining, and
marine polyurethane (several light coats, fine sanding between each
application).
The result was something I was very proud of, even if it was overkill for a TR6!
L. W. (Bill) Clark
(415) 919-4061 Office
From: HealeyDoc@aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 11:19:43 -0500
Subject: XJ6 for sale
For Sale
1980 XJ6 (no rust) White with red leather interior. Serviced
regularly.
Rebuilt Transmission, Will Need some engine work to pass Calif. Smog.
$3,850.00
Norman Nock 209-948-8767 209-931-4710
========================================================
British Car Specialist 2060 N. Wilson Way Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767 (fax# 948-1030) Healey Doc@aol.com
From: “Scott W. Phillips - Gillette Foundation” <SWPHIL@GCH_ADMIN.GCHOSPITAL.COM>
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 11:13:39 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Your new XJ40 ‘stuff’
I read with interest your jag-lovers posting regarding your ‘new’
jag. I jsut got an 88 XJ40 too and have worked through some similar
items on my car. Here’s my comments for what they are worth:
Mine pulled left. Wasn’t the tires, but a frozen caliper. Corrected
by soaking in solvent and lubing caliper. Problem solved.
Was told I would need a complete fuel filler cap assembly for $300
plus $95 labor. Turned out to be just a rusted fuse connection wire.
Fixed for $52.
Good luck with the door handles. My rear handles were balky at best,
and needed a lifting action to get them to open. Fronts were even
worse. Rears were fixed with linkages adjustment and lube. I was
frustrated enough with the fronts that I just replaced them.
As to the front footwell water, check recent posting regarding
clogged drain tubes.
My tail lights needed new gaskets in two cases and all needed a good
tightening due to natural loosening over time from vibes of driving.
Antenna gromet was missing too. My mechanic suggested replacing
($3.25) as it will allow water into the boot (may be why your boot
carpet is missing --PO may have removed due to water damage from
this.
Sorry, can’t help with the seats…atleast those work fine on mine
Scott Phillips
88 XJ40 – and loving it!
From: CCULLIFORD@lauadmin.laurentian.ca
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 12:41:50 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Electrical Problems?
A good friend of mine with an automotive repair shop (and a previous Jag
dealer) is stumped by a couple of problems that someone on this group might
be able to answer. Two jags are in for repairs, he has an 87 VDP V12 with
99,936 km on the clock, the speedo works, but the odometer and tripmeter
won’t work. Is he looking at an electrical or mechanical problem in the
speedohead.
The second car is an 87 XJS, with “slow” power windows, according to the
customer. He has asked for new power units that will be “faster”. My bud
doesn’t know if new Jag units will be faster, or whether there is an
aftermarket item that will meet the customer’s needs.
I shall relay any and all suggestions from the group
Thanks
Christopher Culliford Laurentian University
cculliford@admin.laurentian.ca Sudbury, Ontario
From: Neil Richardson NEILRICH@polisci.wisc.edu
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 96 11:44 CDT
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #7
Tim Altman asks about the function of the movable adjuster on the dash below the
radio of his '87 XJ6. This slide allows one to alter (from warmer to cooler)
the temperature of the air forced through the dashboard ductwork (i.e., “in your
face” air) when compared to the temperature of the air emitted in the footwells.
The latter, it seems, is the more direct reflection of the preset temperature
selected with the round dial.
Neil Richardson
'86 XJ6
'66 E-Type
From: jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk (Stefan Schulz)
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 00:06:00 GMT
Subject: Postscript version of Kirby Palm’s XJ-S book
Greetings,
Following a (one) request of a list member I have made an A4 Postscript
version of Kirby Palm’s book. If anyone is interested in receiving a copy,
please email me. I am trying to gauge demand before deciding whether
to email on a case-by-case basis or to ask Nick to put it on the web site.
Warning: The file is 2.2MB long, after zipping it’s still 678KB. You’ll
need a good email reader to handle chunks that long.
Regards,
Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
From: Robert E Gibson rgibson@hawaii.edu
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 08:46:10 -1000
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #8
I’ve owned my 87XJ6 for eight days, the culmination of a 40 year dream to
own a Jaguar. It’s a beauty with only 27000 well maintained miles on
it. Last night when I was parking it, the power steering began to make a
low groaning sound. I checked what I think must be the power steering
fluid reservoir and it had plenty of fluid in it. Coul anyone please
tell me where to look next. A belt maybe? Thanks. Bob G in Honolulu
From: lwalden@ebmud.com (Lee Walden)
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 10:59:10 -0800
Subject: Re: El Cheapo Dash Work
At 07:20 1996/03/19 -0800, L. W. (Bill) Clark wrote:
It took me four hours sorting through their elm burl veneer to find the best
IMHO for
a bookend match. If I recall correctly it was around $20 for a 30" x 10" sheetI had stripped (sanded) the old veneer off, used a commercial grade contact
cement for adhesive, and finished with a diluted teak oil for staining, and
marine polyurethane (several light coats, fine sanding between each
application).
That’s nice to know however… The wood used in Jags is Burl Walnut,
Maghoney, and Boxwood. Don’t sand off any finishes when "restoring the
wood. Get Formby’s Refinishing kit. Use the stripper and fine steel wool
to remove the old lacquer and stain. Re-stain using Colonial Walnut (or
American Walnut) on the burl. A VERY LIGHT coat on the boxwood. Use red
maghoney for the maghoney. Finish with a couple of coats of hand rubbed
TUNG OIL. When done correctly, the finish should almost “look like
plastic”, or wood under glass. DON’t use polyurethanes as the only way to
remove them is with sanding. The veneers are very thin, and if you try and
sand them, you’ll go right through them to the maghoney underneath. The
Tung Oil finish is very hard, doesn’t yellow or crack, and stands up to
abuse. It’s also easy to “refinish” if necessary. IMHO the work is not
difficult to perform, just time consuming. It is also very hard to
“screw-up” using one of Formby’s kits. Lee
From: BSherw@aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 15:03:30 -0500
Subject: Re: SIII fuel pump circuit
When installing a theft-deterrent switch on the fuel pump circuit, why add
another relay? Why not use the existing fuel pump relay; put the hidden
switch in the source wire to the relay coil?
Brian Sherwood, '85 XJ6
Summer was nice while it lasted…
From: ILYAK@mdli.com
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 13:53:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Where to send list maintenance money in the US?
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 18:24:08 -0500
Subject: Facia Temperature Control
Tim Altman asks about the function of the movable adjuster on the dash
below the
radio of his '87 XJ6. This slide allows one to alter (from warmer to cooler)
the temperature of the air forced through the dashboard ductwork (i.e., “in
your
face” air) when compared to the temperature of the air emitted in the
footwells.
The latter, it seems, is the more direct reflection of the preset temperature
selected with the round dial.
In short, yes. However, one should keep in mind that the temperature in the
CAR is being maintained at a constant by the system. If the sliding control
directly raises the temperature of the facia air, then the control system
will repond by LOWERING the temperature of all outlets to maintain the
constant space temperature. So, while the slider mechanically affects only
the facia air, it in fact will affect all air outlets. Therefore, it is
correctly described as affecting the RELATIONSHIP between facia and lower
supply air.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 19:05:45 -0500
Subject: Impact Wrench
An addendum to the earlier discussions on pneumatic impact wrenches:
Earlier, mentioned that I found an excellent deal on a 1/2" impact wrench
from Harbor Freight Tools (1-800-423-2567). It’s a Central Pneumatic model,
catalog number 02065-4NCC, with 450 ft-lb of torque. It has dual regulators
so you can set tighten to something gentle and loosen to max torque without
having to fiddle with the regulator each time. It sells for $68.99 with
free shipping, plus $2 for handling.
I have had mine for a couple months now, and am very happy with it –
although I must explain that I haven’t exactly worn it out. I use it only
occasionally. The dual regulators are great. The front half of the housing
is a steel can rather than the normal cast aluminum, but I don’t see
anything wrong with that.
The reason for this message: This impact wrench is now on sale for $59.99,
and still has free shipping until May 1. If you need an impact wrench, go
for it!
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 20 Mar 96 11:29:49
Subject: Re: Series III fuel pump current?
I did the same sort of thing on my first SII, but instead of installing a new
switch, I wired the pump via the rear window heater switch (after disconnecting
the RWH, which I never use here in sunny Sydney). I have no idea what the
current is, but this switch handles it no sweat.
Digressing slightly, this is a great anti-burglar device, because the engine
will start on the pressure remaining in the system (I wired the switch in
series with the line after the start relay, impact safety switch etc.) but
won’t run long enough to move the car. So instead of saying “hmm - let’s look
for the secret cutout switch” the thief will say “typical bloody Jaguar - won’t
start” and walk off in a huff…
There are several switches you can play with in this way, especially if you
involve a relay or two. I’m planning to wire the XJC so that the wiper stalk
has to be held in the “park” position while cranking. If you want to complicate
things seriously, you can also involve a door switch or two, so the thing won’t
go unless a door is open…
Have fun!
-
- Jan
** Never let a machine know you’re in a hurry **
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 20 Mar 96 11:40:34
Subject: Re: Latex Gloves
I don’t know what the brand name would be in the rest of the world, but I use a
product called “Barrier Cream” from Fauldings. Rub this in generously and be
sure to fill the space under and around nails, wait for a minute or so until it
dries and then go for it. You don’t notice it’s there, grease and oil don’t
seem to affect the stuff and when you clean up with the normal degreaser after,
your hands come up pinker than pink.
-
- Jan
** Me, indecisive? I’m not so sure about that. **
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 20 Mar 96 15:55:05
Subject: Re: -No Subject-
Existentialist e-mail, now? 8+)
-
- Jan
jvheusd @ hzsda01.ns-nl.att.com
20/03/96 00:21
To: jag-lovers @ sn.no @ Internet
cc:
Subject: -No Subject-
whence
From: Dan Crone croned@rcinet.com
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 00:06:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: oil pressure
How long should it take for oil pressure to show up on the gauge? My
new-to-me 89 XJ6 with 88K miles takes about 7 seconds before oil pressure
registers on the gauge after it has been sitting all night. The temperature
here is about 20 degrees. No complaints about the oil pressure once it
shows up, or the way the car runs. It’s just that it is unnerving to see no
oil pressure and know that the engine is running. Is this normal or should
I consider it a sign the bearings are worn? (The oil level is fine,
although the oil is still the PO’s oil, I don’t know what weight it is.)
From: RLDesign@aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 00:38:42 -0500
Subject: Re: What’s Jag about a Jag.
Hi, Jag-lovers (again),
Well, the '88 XJ40 is taking shape. It is in fact a “late” '88, with the high
compression engine, etc.
Dried out the footwell the best that I could, though I haven’t found the leak
yet. This was discussed some time ago in this group (at least clogged drains
were)…does anyone have that thread lying around?
The car goes in for its service on Monday. Aside from a fluids, alignment,
and inspection, I hope to lick the mechanical problems I’ve noticed so far:
This morning when I started her up, she revved up to 1500 and down to 20 up
to 1500 and down to 20, etc., until she finally died on one of the
downstrokes. Had to give partial throttle for about 10 seconds before the car
settled into any sort of idle.
Similarly, the car does not idle very steadily (400-850 rpm), and idles too
low, often 500 rpm or slightly less. The car will also die when pulling up to
a stop after a “long” run, on occasion. I’m putting this all down to a need
for a tune-up or adjustment, which I hope to have taken care of on Monday…
The “low brake pressure” warning comes on occasionally. I topped up the fluid
(it wasn’t very low), but it still comes on. I wonder whether this has
anything to do with the low idle speed not producing enough vacuum…
Oil pressure appears excellent, but the red warning on the guage remains on
for about a second after a cold start. I’m not too worried about this, but
you can never be too safe.
Finally, the climate control does not seem to work all that well, with cold
air blasting my feet at inopportune times and never anything but hot air from
the upper vents. My Jag parts guy was excited to tell me that they sell a
chip kit, rather than requiring replacement of the whole control panel. I was
not nearly as excited, and left after ordering a carpet for the boot and a
grommet for the antenna.
- –Roger Los
From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 00:41:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Standard vs. Optional
Kirbert Palm writes:
KP> And you can’t get a Daimler at all in the US, because the name is
KP> trademarked by Mercedes.
I don’t believe that you can’t get Daimler’s in the US because of any
Mercedes trademarks, but because hardly anyone in the US knows what a Daimler
is. In the olden days, you COULD get Daimlers in the US. I had a friend
that had a Daimler SP250 and I’ve seen other Daimlers occasionally. Daimlers
were also available until fairly recently in Germany. A number of people got
them because they were CHEAPER than Jaguars and easier to get hold of. Sort
of like the cars that come out of the NUMMI factory. My understanding is
that Jaguar abandoned Daimlers in most markets other than the UK because of
poor name familiarity. Personally, I always look funny at a VDP with the
fluted Daimler grille surround but with Jaguar on the badge.
-Steve A.
From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 00:54:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Standard vs. Optional
Kirbert Palm writes:
KP> And you can’t get a Daimler at all in the US, because the name is
KP> trademarked by Mercedes.
I don’t believe that you can’t get Daimler’s in the US because of any
Mercedes trademarks, but because hardly anyone in the US knows what a
Daimler
is. In the olden days, you COULD get Daimlers in the US. I had a friend
that had a Daimler SP250 and I’ve seen other Daimlers occasionally.
Daimlers
were also available until fairly recently in Germany. A number of people
got
them because they were CHEAPER than Jaguars and easier to get hold of.
Sort
of like the cars that come out of the NUMMI factory. My understanding is
that Jaguar abandoned Daimlers in most markets other than the UK because of
poor name familiarity. Personally, I always look funny at a VDP with the
fluted Daimler grille surround but with Jaguar on the badge.
-Steve A.
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #9
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Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 01:56:59 +0100
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From: owner-jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 22 March 1996 Volume 02 : Number 010
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 22:47:23 -0800
Subject: Re: oil pressure
Dan-
It is quite possibly a result of how the guage works. They usually are made
of a resistive heating element wound around a bi-metalic strip, which
deflects the needle by amounts related to the temperature. THe “regulator”
for this mess is also thermal in nature, so perhaps at 20 deg. they require
a bit of time to reach equilibrium. If your oil light goes out immediately
and the car keeps running, you at least know that you have >4psi :-). BTW,
if proper pressure is held (at idle) after extended runs with the engine at
temperature, you can feel good about your bearings.
Hunt
At 12:06 AM 3/20/96 -0500, Dan Crone wrote:
How long should it take for oil pressure to show up on the gauge? My
new-to-me 89 XJ6 with 88K miles takes about 7 seconds before oil pressure
registers on the gauge after it has been sitting all night. The temperature
here is about 20 degrees. No complaints about the oil pressure once it
shows up, or the way the car runs. It’s just that it is unnerving to see no
oil pressure and know that the engine is running. Is this normal or should
I consider it a sign the bearings are worn? (The oil level is fine,
although the oil is still the PO’s oil, I don’t know what weight it is.)
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 22:49:00 -0800
Subject: Re: oil pressure
Dan-
Per my previous message, I just realized you probably have difital guage in
an '89? If so, I’m not sure that any of my prev. message applies. Sorry!
Hunt
At 12:06 AM 3/20/96 -0500, Dan Crone wrote:
How long should it take for oil pressure to show up on the gauge? My
new-to-me 89 XJ6 with 88K miles takes about 7 seconds before oil pressure
registers on the gauge after it has been sitting all night. The temperature
here is about 20 degrees. No complaints about the oil pressure once it
shows up, or the way the car runs. It’s just that it is unnerving to see no
oil pressure and know that the engine is running. Is this normal or should
I consider it a sign the bearings are worn? (The oil level is fine,
although the oil is still the PO’s oil, I don’t know what weight it is.)
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 20 Mar 96 18:47:10
Subject: Re: oil pressure
Dan, the important indication on startup is the idiot light; it reacts
immediately to the oil pressure transducer. The (electrical) gauge reads the
same transducer but is heavily damped to make it easier to read when the
pressure fluctuates. I think you’ll find that the light (between the main
dials) goes out in a second or two.
-
- Jan
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 05:41:26 -0800
Subject: Re: V12 E kickdown switch
Recently there was a notice regarding the need for a kickdown switch
for a V12 auto BW12 box.
We do have them at the factory… if that person is interested they are
US $ 35.00 plus shipping from the UK…
Kind regards
tony
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
From: BSherw@aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 09:24:00 -0500
Subject: SIII fuel pump circuit
When installing a theft-deterrent switch on the fuel pump circuit, why add
another relay? Why not use the existing fuel pump relay; put the hidden
switch in the source wire to the relay coil?
Brian Sherwood, '85 XJ6
Summer was nice while it lasted…
From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 08:53:14 -0700 (MST)
Subject: – Jag-Fund update 03/20/96 –
As we are just past the half-way point in the fund raiser to
pay for running the Jag-list, I thought I’d post an update.
So far, the response has been tremendous. Currently the fund
total stands at $245 with contributions from the following
Jag-lovers:
Donald and Anna Sime Waukegan, Illinois
Dick and Kathryn White Lexington, South Carolina
Tracy Ferrell San Diego, California
Peter and Donna Pesch Chardon, Ohio
John Elmgreen Australia
Jim Beckmeyer Union City, Michigan
Georges Krcmery Quebec Canada
Dennis Murphy and Nancy Beck Geneva, Illinois
Bill and Sara Clark Sunnyvale, California
Peter and Miriam Pepinsky Auburn, Alabama
Eugene Johnston Chapel Hill, North Carolina
Chris Howard Millbrae, California
Dr. Robert and Judy Reid Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Lawrence and Anne Buja Boulder, Colorado
Thanks to you all. This is a great group and it’s really nice
to know that we have built ourselves a self-sustaining list.
I’ve included the fund announcement below for those who missed
it the first time
/\ Lawrence Buja http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern/
_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
________________Boulder,Colorado___80307-3000
I’ve been asked to run the collection to raise the money to pay for
running the Jaguar mail list. Given the sentiments voiced last winter
about list members not wanting to be exposed to constant beg-a-thons here,
let’s consider this an extension of the WWW collection. I’ll keep it
low key and there won’t be any more fundraisers until next year at this
time. The deliverables for this fund raiser are that Nick will maintain
and run the Jaguar list for the next year.
I will run this fund in the same manner as the previous funds:
-
- Contributors names will be greatfully acknowledged, but only the fund
total will be published.
- Contributors names will be greatfully acknowledged, but only the fund
-
- As an accounting safeguard, any contributor who asks will receive a
copy of the list of individual fund contributors and the amounts.
- As an accounting safeguard, any contributor who asks will receive a
-
- You are encouraged to send pictures with your contribution and
hopefully Nick will add them to the members pictures page on the web
(it helps if you (and any signicant others) appear in the picture to
add some personality to it).
- You are encouraged to send pictures with your contribution and
-
- Please send either a US-drawn check, made out to me, or US dollars.
-
- The closing date is Mar 31, at which time I’ll send one cheque to Nick.
-
- Send Contributions to: Lawrence Buja (Jag-list fund)
525 S. 43rd St
Boulder CO 80303-6009
- Send Contributions to: Lawrence Buja (Jag-list fund)
From: Quang Ngo qlogic!ngo@netcom.com
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 09:21:05 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: oil pressure
On Wed, 20 Mar 1996, Dan Crone wrote:
How long should it take for oil pressure to show up on the gauge? My
new-to-me 89 XJ6 with 88K miles takes about 7 seconds before oil pressure
registers on the gauge after it has been sitting all night. The temperature
here is about 20 degrees. No complaints about the oil pressure once it
shows up, or the way the car runs. It’s just that it is unnerving to see no
oil pressure and know that the engine is running. Is this normal or should
I consider it a sign the bearings are worn? (The oil level is fine,
although the oil is still the PO’s oil, I don’t know what weight it is.)
I have the same car, and recently I got the oil changed. Since, I
notice that the oil meter stays red for a couple of minutes even
after driving then it jumps up to 80-100%. But before the oil change
the oil meter jumps up to 40-60% a couple of seconds after start.
What’s going on?
- -Quang (ngo@qlogic.com)
From: “Brown, Neville (AS01)” NBrown@p05.as01.honeywell.com.au
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 96 08:44:00 EST
Subject: Rough Idle
Roger Los wrote
Similarly, the car does not idle very steadily (400-850 rpm), and idles
too
low, often 500 rpm or slightly less. The car will also die when pulling up
to
a stop after a “long” run, on occasion. I’m putting this all down to a
need
for a tune-up or adjustment, which I hope to have taken care of on
Monday…
Roger
I had a similar experience with my 89 XJ-S soon after I purchased it about 6
months ago. Careful inspection revealed the problem to be that the lead to
the air temperature sensor on the air filter inlet tube had fallen off.
After it was replaced the cat really purred. Worth a look.
Neville Brown
From: “Brown, Neville (AS01)” NBrown@p05.as01.honeywell.com.au
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 96 11:23:00 EST
Subject: Rough Idle
Roger Los wrote
Similarly, the car does not idle very steadily (400-850 rpm), and idles
too
low, often 500 rpm or slightly less. The car will also die when pulling up
to
a stop after a “long” run, on occasion. I’m putting this all down to a
need
for a tune-up or adjustment, which I hope to have taken care of on
Monday…
Roger
I had a similar experience with my 89 XJ-S soon after I purchased it about 6
months ago. Careful inspection revealed the problem to be that the lead to
the air temperature sensor on the air filter inlet tube had fallen off.
After it was replaced the cat really purred. Worth a look.
Neville Brown
From: ILYAK@mdli.com
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 17:05:32 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Used flexplate for XJS
While rebuilding GM400 on my 85 XJS in a shop, I noticed some wear on the
flexplate ring and decided to
replace the flexplate. Since the mailorder place that I normally use was out
of stock, I purchase a used one that looked almost like new from the used Jag
parts place. Mechanic put the flexplate and rebuilt tranny in place.
What I’m observing now is a low tone vibration when driving at any speed.
The vibration wasn’t there before the flexplate was replaced and the tranny
rebuilt. The transmission rebuilder is saying that the most likely source of
vibration is the “unbalanced used flexplate”.
What do you think?
Thanks, Ilya.
From: “Peter W. Karpien” 100306.3514@compuserve.com
Date: 20 Mar 96 21:45:53 EST
Subject: 85 XJ6 Brakes
Well as Springs arrives here in UpState New York I am preparing to return
Victoria (85 XJ6 Gun Metal
Grey) to the open road. I took her out last week for a short test drive and
found she pulled to
right when coming to a stop.
I assume this is a caliper problem. I have never dealt with this kind of
problem before though
and am wondering what to look for.
Also the PO had the car repainted. I think he used the same color but I’m not
sure. Where do I
look for the orginal color code and what are some of the codes?
TIA
- -Peter
From: kroppe@mich.com
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 96 22:30 EST
Subject: XJ6 Deceleration Valve
Greetings All -
OK, I need some help identifying the function of a part. It’s the
deceleration valve (EAC1850) which is located in the intake
manifold, under the air distribution block (EAC1739) on my
1982 SIII XJ6, with fuel injection.
Does this valve let air come into the intake manifold when the
throttle plate goes to closed throttle, thus creating high
vaccuum, and pulling open the deceleration valve? Why would
the engine need to bleed air through another valve, instead
of just using what comes through the throttle plates,
albeit they would be closed upon deceleration?
Maybe it’s because at closed throttle, the plate fits so
snugly in the throttle bore that insuficient air is drawn
across it (if true, this would also bring the deceleration
valve into play during idle).
I just took a look at my throttle body (sitting on my workbench)
and it does look like precious little air would pass by the plates
at closed throttle.
What does anyone think? Michael Neal? Am I mad?
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 22:48:36 -0800
Subject: Re: 85 XJ6 Brakes
Peter-
I’ll be interested to hear what you find out. I have the same car, although
Black. Pulls to the right also, and does it differently depending on how
long it’s been in use (rotor heating?). I’ve had it looked at, replaced ball
joints (it did need them) had it aligned and been told that the rotors and
brake components look OK. I also just replaced the master cylindar. Pedal
would (sometimes) creep towards the floor, or car would ‘roll’ when stopped.
I thought perhaps the dual braking system could be malfunctioning and
unbalancing the system. Not that, either (but brakes are properly stiff
now). I plan to inspect the suspension mounts some time soon, as damaged
mounts causing the alignment to shift while braking seems like a
possibility. So does glazing of a rotor, or a caliper sticking. If I ever
find the source of my problem, I’ll post it, meanwhile, good luck with yours!
Hunt
At 09:45 PM 3/20/96 EST, Peter W. Karpien wrote:
Well as Springs arrives here in UpState New York I am preparing to return
Victoria (85 XJ6 Gun Metal
Grey) to the open road. I took her out last week for a short test drive and
found she pulled to
right when coming to a stop.I assume this is a caliper problem. I have never dealt with this kind of
problem before though
and am wondering what to look for.Also the PO had the car repainted. I think he used the same color but I’m not
sure. Where do I
look for the orginal color code and what are some of the codes?TIA
-Peter
From: William F Trimble trimbwf@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 10:56:36 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: 85 XJ6 Brakes
To Hunt, Peter, and others:
My 85 XJ6 began pulling to the right a few months after a got it
late in 1991. After a while, it began stopping straight again. The
problem was that diff oil was leaking on the left rear rotor, causing the
pull to the right. Then the seal on the other side of the diff began to
leak, putting oil on the right rear rotor, thus balancing everything out
and largely negating any rear braking at all.
You will want to make sure that both rear rotors are dry and that
you don’t have any diff leaks.
Bill Trimble
Auburn, Alabama
From: “Tracy A. Ferrell” tracy@brooktree.com
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 10:39:27 -0800
Subject: My BW66 is fixed
I finally got the BW66 in my '84 XJ6 fixed. I had it rebuilt last May for
$2100US at Aamco. I complained at the time that it sounded like the
transmission pump was a lot louder than before, but then they convinced me
that it was normal.
A couple of days later I limped into their shop with the transmission having
very little drive and making lots of noise. They “fixed” it and said they
had found a loose washer inside.
Later, I discovered that if I did a little forward-backwards-forward
manuever that the transmission would get into that
little-drive-lots-of-noise mode (wasn’t someone else on the list
experiencing a similar problem?). Because I could get it out of that mode by
shutting the engine off and because I really hated having to deal with Aamco
again I’ve been ignoring it.
Well, I finally took it back 3 weeks ago and they put a new kit in and
replaced lots of stuff like the pump, an input shaft, the forward drum and
hoses and still didn’t have a clue as to what was causing the problem. After
riding my bicycle for over 2 weeks they offered to get me a rental car and a
day and a half later they fixed the problem. They say they found a hairline
crack in the housing of the piston that drives the forward clutch.
I don’t know whether to believe them yet as I’ve only driven it from their
shop to work this morning, but it seems to be working better than it ever
has. I can barely feel the shifts (up or down), and it seems to always be in
the right gear for the speed and condition.
This is really not a testimonial for Aamco (as I’m still not a real fan of
theirs), but it appears that if you dog them enough (which I didn’t) you can
get good results. Plus, they never even hinted at charging me anything even
though I let it go so long.
Ya all have a good day (I finally am!),
Tracy A. Ferrell
tracy@brooktree.com
In Sunny (OK, maybe it just seems that way 'cause I’m back in the Jag) San
Diego, CA, USA
From: “Jim Cantrell” JIMC@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 12:32:06 MDT
Subject: Seat leather and unspeakable sightings
Hello all,
I recently found a 76 XJ6C in Costa Mesa Ca. It has 40 k miles on
it and basically needs only a paint job. The guy that sold it to me must
have been in pretty dire staits since he came down in price by 50% by
the time I bought it. I paid 2000$US and I would imagine that it is
a condition 3 car. It is a beautiful origonal car but I did feel
silly buying a second XJC (I already own a XJ12C that I bought from
the same guy). I think that the XJ6C will be a driver where the 12
will be mostly a toy. At any rate, I couldn’t resist the price ! I
thought that I would share the story as all of you would appreciate
the find.
Question: The leather is somewhat dry and faded. My question is if
one is going to dye and treat the leather - which to do first ?
Should they be dyed or treated first ? Any of you that have any
experience in this matter would be expected.
I also wanted to relay an experience I had when picking up the
aforementioned XJ6C. As we were loading it on the trailer, some guy
came by and said “hey you guys interested in a second one of those
?”. Curious, we followed him into his welding shop where he showed
us a 1973 XJ12L that was complete but in primer. Curious, I asked
about it and he said “the best part is under the hood”. He opened
the hood and to my horror there stood a dirty Ford 390 V8. Now, I
have followed the conversations on this net concerning these
conversions and although I would never do such a thing myself, felt
rather unemotional about the issue. But as I stared at this one, I
understood what the “purists” were saying - this was somehow a
frankenstein. Worst of all, this guy thought that it made the car
worth so much more than if it were origonal. I tried to explain that
most people who buy Jags would prefer the V12. He pressed me for
what I thought it was worth and when I said “2000$” I thought that he
was going to chase me out with a lit torch. So if anybody wants such
a car, let me know and I will put you in contact with him.
Regards,
Jim Cantrell
76 XJ12C
76 XJ6C
66 Alpine 2.8L
From: JimJag@aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 15:47:19 -0500
Subject: Re: 85 XJ6 Brakes
i had a similar problem with my 85 vanden plas. it was a combination of two
things:
-
my front passenger brake calipers were “frozen” and caused the brakes to
stick, thereby pulling the car. -
because of #1, this caused an unusual wear pattern on my almost new
tires. even after #1 was fixed, the car still pulled, although not near as
bad. to see if your tires are part of the problem, make sure #1 has been
fixed and swap the driver and passenger tires (left to right and right to
left, respectively) temporarily. take it for a drive and see if the pull has
switched to the other side also. if so, its your tires. if not, at least
you have removed one more variable from the equation.
good luck and let me know how you make out!!!
From: Tom Tjwal@cris.com
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 16:30:16 -0500 (EST)
Subject: 82 XJS HE fogging windows
Hello to all. My wife and I just recently became the new owners of and 82
XJS. Along with the many little things we want to correct on the car, there
is one thing I thought I’d ask the group about to see if anyone else has had
the same experience.
Seems as though on cool nights, here in the Chicagoland area, the windshield
and windows fog up only on the left side of the vehicle. Now, when you turn
on the defroster, lots air is coming from the defroster vents on both the
left and right side, but it doesn’t seem to do a heck of a lot of good.
Any ideas??? Is it a hole in the heater core?, piece of duct work thats
come undone??, or plugged up hole in the AC drainage.
Appreciate any thoughts you all might have.
Tom Walker
Lake Forest, IL
From: “Scott W. Phillips - Gillette Foundation” <SWPHIL@GCH_ADMIN.GCHOSPITAL.COM>
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 16:13:45 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Oh-nooooo
Just when I finally get bold and try to do a couple of things on my
Jag myself, I end up with two minor troubles and it
reminds me why I raise money for a living and don’t work on mechanical
devices!
First, my PO removed the dowager (sp?) straps from the rear ceiling. Got
replacements, but don’t know if they install with the strap facing front or back?
Second, after installing new lenses and bulbs on several of my
exterior lights I discover on the driveway (the next morning) a
concave piece of milky plastic 3" x 2" (sorry my metric friends I
only have an imperial ruler), shaped like this (__) with a
small notch in the middle of the top…and can’t find for the
life of me where it now belongs!!!
Any help from my fellow jag-lovers?
Oh, one last thing…purchased a touch-up paint kit for some minor chips,
etc. however it states to “prime first”…what should I use as a
primer?
Can’t thank the members of this auspicious group enough for being
willing to help those of us who are mechanical mental midgets!!
Scott ‘maybe I should just not touch the car myself’ Phillips
'88 - XJ40
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 22 Mar 96 10:45:55
Subject: Re: Used flexplate for XJS
Sounds like BS to me, Ilya - what’s to balance on a flexplate? Does the pitch
of the hum vary with engine speed or road speed?
A simple check to see if the hum is on the input side of the tranny or the
output side:
Run the car up to normal travel speed on a smooth-surfaced stretch - say, 50-60
mph. Pop the T-handle into N. Take your foot off the loud pedal.
Does the pitch drop rapidly? If you blip the throttle, does it track engine
speed? If so, the hum comes from something on the input side. If not, it’s on
the output side.
I had a fairly obnoxious hum once, the pitch of which tracked road speed (not a
Jag). Turned out to be loose bolts on the front drive shaft U-joint…
Good luck,
-
- Jan
PS:
For contrast, I had my GM400 rebuilt and shift-kitted a couple of months ago.
Yesterday, I went back to the tranny specialist and asked if the (rather low
with warm gearbox) 1-2 change-up point was normal. Answer: “No, it’s not, but I
think I know what it is. Just bring it in next week and I’ll fix it under
warranty”. Now there’s a man who understands the value of word-of-mouth!
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #10
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jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 23 March 1996 Volume 02 : Number 011
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 22 Mar 96 10:54:56
Subject: Re: XJ6 Deceleration Valve (from Kroppe)
No madder than anyone else, mate. This is an anti-pollution thingy; it’s meant
to make sure your cat converters are never starved of air to convert. You can
check the operation by taking off the air cleaner (assuming the whole thing is
as accessible as on the V12). Hold a finger loosely on the port that admits air
to the Dec valve, rev the engine firmly and let go of the throttle; the Dec
valve should suck for maybe a second. It must not admit air during normal
idling.
-
- Jan
From: “Sleeman, Chris (Exchange)” ChrisSl@mel.praxa.com.au
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 12:19:50 +1000
Subject: Price of a V8 XJ
All,
Speaking of people thinking that a V8 converted XJ is worth more, I have
noticed an add recently in the Melbourne Age for a series II XJ with a 350
chev for AUD $20,000. When you consider that the book value for a V12 is
about AUD $10,000 this is quite ridiculous.
Chris Sleeman
chrissl@praxa.com.au
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 18:45:09 -0800
Subject: Re: 85 XJ6 Brakes
Bill-
Aargh! That sounds to perverse to be wrong! I’ll check it out - thanks!
Hunt
At 10:56 AM 3/21/96 -0600, William F Trimble wrote:
To Hunt, Peter, and others:
My 85 XJ6 began pulling to the right a few months after a got it
late in 1991. After a while, it began stopping straight again. The
problem was that diff oil was leaking on the left rear rotor, causing the
pull to the right. Then the seal on the other side of the diff began to
leak, putting oil on the right rear rotor, thus balancing everything out
and largely negating any rear braking at all.
You will want to make sure that both rear rotors are dry and that
you don’t have any diff leaks.Bill Trimble
Auburn, Alabama
From: GrateflJag@aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 21:54:28 -0500
Subject: Tech Session: Sanatoga, PA, USA 23 March 1996
Attention Jaguar-philes in the Philadelphia, PA, USA area:
(with apologies to the rest of the world for wasting the bandwith…)
The Delaware Valley Jaguar Club is hosting a Tech Session at Lindley Motors,
in Sanatoga, PA (near Pottstown, between King of Prussia and Reading on Rte.
422) this Saturday, 23 March starting at 11am. We’ll be going learning and
sharing secrets on “How to work with sheet metal”.
If you’re interested in attending, please send me email for directions, or
call Lou Ottaviano at Lindley Motors, (610) 326-8484. Mention that you
received this email from me so that Lou knows how you learned about it.
Hope to see you there!
Mark West
gratefljag@aol.com
89 XJ-S (unfortunately in need of some sheet metal repair to the front
quarter panels)
From: nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu (Nikolai Chitaev)
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 22:13:59 -0600
Subject: Air fiter
Hello there,
I come with the question
How frequently should be changed the air filter on EFI XJ6 sIII.
Just curious.
Nikolai A. Chitaev, PhD.
<<87`XJ6 4.2L, EFI, BRG>>
{nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu}
{http://128.252.119.253}
St.Louis, Missouri, USA
From: us000268@pop3.interramp.com
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 96 23:30:32 PST
Subject: XJ6 Coil Which One??
Hi to all, Have a question on the coil for a 83 XJ6. Mine was leaking so I
sent for a new one from SICP. All was fine till I noticed its manufactured
by Ducellier. I think I remember from the list that this is not a good
product. Should I send it back for a .Lucas or some other brand,or are the
new Ducellier OK? Thanks to any with info. Alex Lynch.
E-mail: us000268@pop3.interramp.com
Date: 03/21/96
Time: 23:30:32
This message was sent by Chameleon
From: croach@tnet.net (Chuck Roach)
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 20:45:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: XJS ???
Hi,
I’m new to the list and have been downloading the archive files to find out
whats been going on before I got here. I have an '85 XJS that I bought 11
years ago when it had 18k on it from a little old lady in Portland, Oregon.
I was living in the L.A. area at the time. Since then I have seen the light
and now live in Victoria, British Columbia. Great place to live. Even lucky
enough to have a Jag dealer when I need parts I can’t get anywhere else, and
friendly advice when needed.
First, a compliment to Kirby for his book on the XJS. Looks like a lot of
work. Had a hell of a time downloading it. Took 4 tries to get a good copy.
But well worth the effort. Reading through it as time permits. Just came
across a problem I’ve had for years regarding the turn signal dash
indicators. My right turn indicator only blinks once, but the outside lights
are working. I will check the bulb types and contact connections this
weekend. Thx. again Kirby.
Now for my problems that perhaps I can get some help with.
1. LOW IDLE WHEN COLD. I know its supposed to be a bit low during the
first 45 seconds, but mine will stay around 500 RPM until the engine really
warms up. Then it idles around 750-800 RPM. I removed the aux. air valve and
tested it using hot water and it seems to work. Wide open when cold and
almost closed when hot. It doesn’t quite close.
2. STARTING PROBLEM WHEN HOT. When the engine is at operating temp. and I
start it without giving it gas as soon as it starts, it will stall. It will
do this multiple times until I give it gas. I found that I was getting vac.
advance immediately when I start it so I clamped off the vac. to the
distributor. No help. Didn’t think that was my problem anyway. Which brings
up a question. Am I causing any problems by having advance immediately? I
assume my time delay solenoid is leaking when it gets hot as I don’t have
vac. to the distributor when the engine is cold during the first 45 seconds.
Then I clamped off the vac. line to the left hand fuel regulator. Surprise,
it starts and runs. The vac. to the left hand regulator goes through a
thermal valve (EAC5086) or (EBC4600 sub.) (page1I 03L jag parts catalog)
that senses fuel temp. in the fuel rail. Asked my friendly Jag. svc. mgr.
what this was for and he says its used for hot start.
Questions: What does applying vac. to the regulator do?
Whats the theory behind changing the pressure, cold vrs.
hot?
What kind of problems would I cause by clamping off this
line so that there is no vac. when the engine is cold?
Is there any information available as to what the various Lucas testers,
such as the “epitest” and the instrument tester( SR/409), are measuring so
that the various checks that they are doing could be done with a meter,
oscilloscope or another instrument that is more readily available?
I have the Haynes manual and the Jaguar Repair Operation Manual (AKM 3455
ED 4) but am not really happy with either. Any other suggestions where I can
get any better manuals?
Regards,
Chuck Roach
'85 XJS
'80 BMW 528I
'81 El Camino
Compuserve 76637,3501
croach@tnet.net
From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 23:57:17 -0500
Subject: XJ-S Closed Loop Bypass
OK, I did it. I located the diagnostic connector Michael Neal described –
the one that, when pulled, puts the XJ-S into closed loop in P or N.
I cranked up the car ('82 HE) and let it warm up to normal operating
temperature.
With the plug in place, I had my normal smooth idle in P or N.
With the plug pulled, the idle ‘hunted’ the way it normally does when idling
in gear. (This is the same idle speed variation Kirby addressed by pulling
the vacuum line to one of his fuel pressure regulators.)
So – closed loop idle in an XJ-S results in a surging idle.
Is the stock analog ECU just not able to regulate the engine quicker or
within tighter limits to provide a smoother closed loop idle? Anybody out
there due for an emissions inspection – run the car thru both ways and
report on the results?
I swear I’ll end up swapping in two (wait a minute: couldn’t one do the
job?) GM V6 digital ECUs. Let’s see, the V-12 is about 324 cu in, divide by
two, that’s 162 cu in or roughly 2.8 liters – yes, GM made V6s that
size…oops, were they TBI or TPI…
Regards,
John
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 22 Mar 96 15:53:33
Subject: Re: Price of a V8 XJ
Chris, asking is one thing, getting is another.
Think of V8-ized XJs as another brand of car, nothing to do with Jaguar. That
makes it easier to accept that some people actually prefer “brand X”. It’s all
a matter of viewpoint - isn’t it a great improvement to swap a Chevy body for a
Jag body?
BTW, would you care to come up to Sydney and buy my SII XJ12L? It’s in great
mechanical condition and goes like stink, but the paintwork is best described
as “anti-vandal”, the dash is Early Firewood and the upholstery is velour…
-
- Jan
SII XJ5.3L
SII XJ5.3C
** For sale: Parachute, used once, never opened. **
From: “Alastar W. Lauener” bu08@central.napier.ac.uk
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 10:00:58 GMT
Subject: Alastair Reynolds S-Type Power Steering
I have this from Alastair Reynolds, he is having problems with his mailer
just now and asked me to post this message for him
Hi fellow Jag-llovers,
I have a problem you could help me with. I have run
out of patience with the power steering box on my S Type (No viable
refurbishment route that gives me any confidence that it will work for any
length of time).
I have decided to fit a Series III rack and pinion like that offered via
SNG Barratt and supplied by Vicarage. The cost = 900 pounds plus VAT.
The problem is the neither Vicarage or Barratt appear to have fitted their
kit to an S Type. The Workshop manuals appear to indicate the chassis
dimentions on the MKII and Stype are identical at the front at least.
The inner wings appear to be the same. Can someone confirm this by looking
up the part Nos in their MKII parts list:
10256 Valance Assy LH
6749 Support Assy
10290 Filler panel
6719 Angle RH
6717 Diagonal stifner
7244 Reinforcing plate
10257 Valance Assy LH
6750 Support Assy
10291 Filler panel
6720 Angle LH
6718 Diagonal stifner
7245 Reinforcing plate
The front sub frames on both MKII and S Types are the same so this should
mean that the kit offered by Barratts should fit if the other data is the
same.
My major worries are 2 fold:
-
Ken Jenkins (JEC) tells me that on both the S Type and MKII the RH chassis
rail needs modification when fitting a series III metric rack. Does anybody know
the truth of this. (Is the Vicarage rack metric ?) -
The lower and upper steering column is totally different on the S Type
vs the MKII. Does anybody know if the lower steering column on a MKII will
fit an S Type ? If the answer is NO then the Vicarage kit lower column will
not fit my S Type.
Supplementary question: Are the splines the same on the Series III rack
(metric or otherwise) as the splines on my old power box? If they are not
then I will have some trouble modifying my lower steering column to fit.
The standard way of shortening the lower column to join up with a rack is
to cut sleeve and weld the column. Does anybody have any comments about the
safety implications of this modification?
------------------------------------------------------------------------*
| ######## / ######### | Alastair Reynolds - Hewlett Packard Ltd |
| ####### / ####### | Telecom Test Division - QTO |
| ###### /__ ___ ###### | West Lothian EH30 9TG |
| ##### / / / / ##### | SCOTLAND |
| ##### / / /__/ ##### | Phone +44 131 331 7503 |
| ###### / ###### | Telnet 313 2503 |
| ####### / ####### | FAX +44 131 331 7488 |
| ######## / ######### | email alastair@hpsqf.sqf.hp.com |
------------------------------------------------------------------------*
- Alastair Lauener Work Phone +44 131 455 2458 *
- Chief Technician Fax +44 131 455 2267 *
- Department of Building & Surveying Home Phone +44 1577 864242 *
- Napier University, Edinburgh EH10 5DT a.lauener@central.napier.ac.uk *
- 1964 3.4 S-Type story at http://www.sn.no/home/nick/alas.html *
From: martin_g@oldham.gpsemi.com (Martin Grossman)
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 96 16:06:20 GMT
Subject: The space part of “Grace Space and Pace”
While were on the subject of roominess could one of the MK X or 420G
owners out there comment on the rear headroom of their cars. I’ve heard
one or two stories that it isn’t very comfortable even for average
height people. I am considering buying one (the shape and interior are
fantastic) but I haven’t managed to have a good look around one in the
flesh yet.
I hope to be able to do some serious looking when the car shows start
in the late spring.
Cheers
-------------------------------
Martin Grossman 1990 Daimler 4.0
GEC Plessey Semiconductors
Oldham
Lancashire
UK
From: mike_israel@Merck.Com (Mike Israel)
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 12:33 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Ouch! - Jaguar Trade in Values
Recently I have seen a few people ask what their late model Jags might be
worth on a trade. Today I ventured to find the answer about my own '86 XJ6.
I thought I would share the experience.
The Car: '86 XJ6 Overall Very Good Condition, New brakes all around
including rear rotors, two new Aquatreads on rear but could use new tires up
front, good body with one rust blemish at the rear valance, excellent
interior, new cat converters and exhaust pipes, 115,000 miles.
The Dealer: Don Rosen Porsche in Plymouth Meeting Pennsylvania.
Anyway, Tom the salesman came back with the estimate sheet and a copy of the
recent auto auction price sheet. He kindly explained to me that the high
mileage was a killer and then showed me the recent auction price sheet.
Sure enough, several late model Series III’s, some with lower mileage, had
recently sold for $2,500 - $4,000 dollars. Ouch! They offered me $3,000
for mine which convinced me that I will not be trading my Jag today. Sadly,
I suspect that this is about what any other dealer would offer.
Had they come in over $5,000 I probably would have considered it. For now
I will either seek a private buyer or drive it for another 115 thousand
miles.
Regards,
Mike_Israel@merck.com
'86 XJ6
'77 Spitfire
'81 Rabbit Diesel
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 09:51:46 -0800
Subject: Re: E-type and GM400
You wrote:
Hello! I read an answer the other today written by Anthony Parkinson
about BW and kickdown and I got an idea.
Perhaps this is the man that could tell me if it is at all
possible to install a V12 engine from an XJ12 in an V12 E-type 2+2
from 1971.
The answer is yes… with some small mods
Do you know if there would be room in the car for this engine and
a GM400 transmission?
The engine …fine, the trani no. You can fit it if you have small,thin
legs and like being cramped. We have used it in a Mark II but would not
put it into the Etype … The BW12 is available in the UK if you need
a correct trani.
all the best
tony
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
From: LLoyd 3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@cmsa.berkeley.edu
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 96 10:20:42 PST
Subject: '65 s help
A friend has a '65 3.8S and needs to remove the radio for service. He
(and I even looked) can’t seem to find a straight foreward way to remove it.
Can anyone give us some advise? It is an automatic, if that makes a difference.
Oh, BTW, it’s for sale. He wants $14,500. US for it. Beautiful paint job,
needs some door rubber and the engine compartment is dirty. Leather and wood
interior are beautiful. Seems a bit pricy to me, is it worth that much?
LLoyd
From: JQJF14A@prodigy.com (MR JOHN W SHUCK)
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 1996 13:52:08 EST
Subject: 82 XJS HE fogging windows
Tom Walker…Windy City…xjs fogged windows…
This sounds crude, but wet your finger and touch the window. Taste
your finger now. (Wondered why you quit smoking?) If it tastes
sweet, that’s antifreeze that’s coming from quess where…heater
core. John Shuck…
From: BSherw@aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 14:09:56 -0500
Subject: 4.2 cyl head cracks
I’ve just disassembled and started to clean up the cylinder head from my '85
4.2, prior to rebuild, and I’ve noticed several combustion chambers show
cracks between the exhaust seat and the spark plug hole. The exhaust seats
themselves do not appear cracked or loose. I suspect these cracks do not
connect to the water jacket, and are not of any consequence; but I would feel
better if someone from the group could confirm this. Anyone with any
experience in this area? Any other general hints on cyl. head repair also
would be appreciated.
Optomistically,
Brian Sherwood, '85 XJ6
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 11:37:25 -0800
Subject: Jaguar Trade in Values
You wrote:
The Car: '86 XJ6 Overall Very Good Condition, 115,000 miles.
Over 90k miles , the cars are not considered to be of any value …
irrespective of your good care…
Sure enough, several late model Series III’s, some with lower mileage,
had recently sold for $2,500 - $4,000 dollars.
The last black one I bought with 60k miles from a local private party
was $3,800 , I just missed a silver one at $2,500 and now I am trying
to buy one in nice condition for $3,500 and the owner is motivated. e owner is motivated.he
the
Ouch! They offered me $3,000 for mine
about right for a dealer…
Had they come in over $5,000 I probably would have considered it.
Just a word of caution here … I have not seen too many go for that
price with high mileage… My thought would be to put money into it
and let it give you pleasure and serve you for anther few years … you
will still get $3,000 for it with 140,000 miles on the clock…
Kind regards
tony
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
From: Alastair Reynolds alastair@areyn.demon.co.uk
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 08:29:39 +0000
Subject: S Type problems
Hi fellow Jag-llovers,
I have a problem you could help me with. I have
run out of patience with the power steering box on my 66 S Type (No
viable refurbishment route that gives me any confidence that it will
work for any length of time).
I have decided to fit a Series III rack and pinion like that offered via
SNG Barratt and supplied by Vicarage. The cost = 900 pounds plus VAT.
The problem is the neither Vicarage or Barratt appear to have fitted
their kit to an S Type. The Workshop manuals appear to indicate the
chassis dimentions on the MKII and Stype are identical at the front at
least. The inner wings appear to be the same. Can someone confirm this
by looking up the part Nos in their MKII parts list:
10256 Valance Assy LH
6749 Support Assy
10290 Filler panel
6719 Angle RH
6717 Diagonal stifner
7244 Reinforcing plate
10257 Valance Assy LH
6750 Support Assy
10291 Filler panel
6720 Angle LH
6718 Diagonal stifner
7245 Reinforcing plate
The front sub frames on both MKII and S Types are the same so this
should mean that the kit offered by Barratts should fit if the other
data is the same.
My major worries are 2 fold:
-
Ken Jenkins (JEC) tells me that on both the S Type and MKII the RH
chassis rail needs modification when fitting a series III metric rack.
Does anybody know the truth of this. (Is the Vicarage rack metric ?) -
The lower and upper steering column is totally different on the S
Type vs the MKII. Does anybody know if the lower steering column on a
MKII will fit an S Type ? If the answer is NO then the Vicarage kit
lower column will not fit my S Type.
Supplementary question: Are the splines the same on the Series III rack
(metric or otherwise) as the splines on my old power box? If they are
not then I will have some trouble modifying my lower steering column to
fit.
The standard way of shortening the lower column to join up with a rack
is to cut sleeve and weld the column. Does anybody have any comments
about the safety implications of this modification?
Alastair Reynolds
1966 S Type Owner
From: LLoyd 3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@cmsa.berkeley.edu
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 96 12:47:26 PST
Subject: Brit Car/Brit Plates
Hay, I’ve got real Brit plates for my Brit car!! Remember about a month ago
Tony was going to the UK, and asked if anyone wanted to get some Brit Plates??
Well, I ordered a pair for the “E” that reads “71 E DHC”
They are here! The rear will fit beautifully for show. Now it looks like a
“real LBC”.
LLoyd -a British car without british plates is lake a woman with only
one breast-
From: Ed Scripps 73200.2362@compuserve.com
Date: 22 Mar 96 19:04:46 EST
Subject: Series I head light scoop
Hi group,
Is it possible to remove the gray head light scoop in a series I ‘E’ Type
through the headlight opening or is it more complicated than that?
Thanks,
- -Ed-
From: Paul Peard Paul.Peard@BankersTrust.com
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 1996 00:11:00 +0000
Subject: The wife has noticed (xj-s vs xj6)
A little short-term history:
9 months ago, we found out that we (my wife and I) were
expecting another baby (we already had 1), so I did the sensible
thing, I went out and bought an XJ-S (Ideal family car!), 5
months later, we discover we are expecting twins, two days ago
they arrived (everyone healthy and well).
Today at the hospital, the wife mentioned that we couldn’t get
the while family in the Jag anymore but it didn’t matter, that
set me thinking about trading it for an XJ6
I’d like to solicit a little net.opinion from everyone on the
merits of getting two babies, one 2 year old and the two of us
into an xj6, is there room? do most normal car seats fit etc.
etc., is the sIII better or worse than the xj40 (as far as
moving the family around).
We do have two other cars that we can get the kids in, but it
would be nice to share the obsession with the family.
Has anyone else done this switch, I like both cars but when it
came to spending the money the xj-s won. I think I may miss the
V12.
Opinions anyone?
Regards
Paul
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #11
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Message-Id: 199603240742.IAA18376@ekeberg.sn.no
From: owner-jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
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jag-lovers-digest Sunday, 24 March 1996 Volume 02 : Number 012
From: Paul Peard Paul.Peard@BankersTrust.com
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 1996 00:21:29 +0000
Subject: Re: 82 XJS HE fogging windows
Mine fogged all the windows, turned out to be A/C drains, it got
so bad that a good left and bend woud result in a free foot
shower from the vents…, seems to be OK now but I would
say that the car is more prone to fogging than anything else I
have owned.
Regards
Paul
From: pkr@SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 1996 18:40:00 -0800
Subject: Re: Series I head light scoop
At 7:04 PM 3/22/96, Ed Scripps wrote:
Is it possible to remove the gray head light scoop in a series I ‘E’ Type
through the headlight opening or is it more complicated than that?
Ed,
it is possible, in fact its the only way. But be prepared to scrape some
flesh along the way.
First remove the headlamp unit, then search around on the back of the
headlamp panel (mudgaurd side) for 2 or 3 screws protruding through. They
may be covered in underbody coating etc. Next “remove the nuts and withdraw
scoop through headlight opening”. It can be done, just not easily! More
interesting is the installation when you are trying to protect paintwork
and keep the gasket (a piece of split rubber tube) around the scoop in
place.
Cheers, Patrick.
Patrick Krejcik Stanford Linear Accelerator Center
Stanford, California.
1965 Jaguar E-Type
Series I 4.2 FHC BRG
From: “J.W. Beckmeyer” 73131.3076@compuserve.com
Date: 23 Mar 96 09:55:25 EST
Subject: Old stuff- (was:Ouch! - Jaguar Trade in Values)
Mike wrote:
Had they come in over $5,000 I probably would have considered
it. For now I will either seek a private buyer or drive it
for another 115 thousand miles.
To which Tony replied:
My thought would be to put money into it and let it give you
pleasure and serve you for anther few years … you will still
get $3,000 for it with 140,000 miles on the clock…
Mike, Tony hit it right on the head, IMHO. Keep the car.
When I bought my XJ40 in 91, my intention was, and still is, to keep the car
forever. Maintain it well, both mechanically and cosmetically, and there is no
reason why it shouldn’t last for years and years.
Also, when I bought the car, I knew full well that the resale on Jags was pretty
bad and that knowledge helped me conclude that if I were to buy the car, it
would be a l-o-n-g lasting relationship.
(CAUTION: Verbose mode on)
What really pisses me off is people who treat their Jags like “regular” (read
that) “disposable” cars…you know, buy (or lease) 'em, run the hell out of them
and trade for a new one after two or three years. It is no wonder why these cars
don’t demand a better price. By the time these people are finished with them,
they truly aren’t worth much.
OTOH, if a person has the money, he or she has every right to treat their (very
expensive) Jaguars anyway they choose. If plunking down US $60K doesn’t put a
dent in their bank account, well, good for them.
A guy or gal driving around in a new XJ6 (or whatever the hell they’re called)
doesn’t impress me much (The car does, the owner doesn’t). But show me that
same person still driving that car after ten or fifteen years of loving
ownership…that I respect! To me, they demonstrate a respect for the marque
and an ability to appreciate the way a Jaguar (that is properly maintained)
ages so gracefully and beautifully.
There is a certain beauty that comes with age (god! at least I hope so ).
I suppose that is why I took great pains to overhaul a one hundred ten year old
clock that belonged to my Great Grandparents and bring it back to perfect
running order. It is the main clock in our living room and works just fine, day
in, day out. Probably it is the same mind set that compelled me to purchase a
36 year old MK II and restore her to a driver.
All this is very personal and I’m really not trying to impose my ethics on
anyone. But it seems to me that we live in a world where cars, homes, watches,
clocks and yes, even people are readily discarded at the first hint of trouble.
The car blows an oil seal, get rid of it. The clock stops, throw it away and
buy a new one. Grandma breaks her hip, put her in a home.
Perhaps one of the reasons I find the email from all of you so rewarding is that
you really give a damn about your jags…old or new(ish), you care enough to put
effort into taking great care of them. To me, that matters.
Sorry for rambling on…standard disclaimers apply.
A “certifiable” Jag-lover,
Jim Beckmeyer
90 XJ40
60 MK II
89 Eagle Summit
From: jello@dns.ida.net (Phil Bates)
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 1996 09:01:59 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ6C body numbers
Think I’ve found a very low 1975 coupe, but can’t find
the beginning serial number…is it 50001 or 51001??!
The prefix is UF (for 1975) 2J.Wade Pollard
“JAGMAN”
According to the official Jaguar XJ6 Series 2 parts catalog, 2 door coupes
body numbers commence at 2J.50001. If I recall it correctly, the UF is a
car going to the US and is Federalized.
Now, beyond the 50001, I am not sure how it is best to determine how low the
car number is. It is my understanding the almost all the bodies were made
in a fairly short time. Also, that the body number may have gone back and
forth between XJ12C’s and XJ6C’s with the prefix changing. On my '75 XJ12C,
the body number is 2G50209. I thought I had the 209th XJ12C, but my engine
number is 7P.25027. Injected engines were first introduced at 7P.25000, and
first introduced in coupes. I thought all coupes got injected engines, and
therefore my car was the 27th made. That 209 and 27 didn’t seem to be the
same to me, so I asked Paul, at Paul’s Discount Jaguar Parts (his specialty
is coupes). He said, “So, you have about the 67th V12.” To which I asked
why it wasn’t the 27th, and he told me that there were about 40 V-12 coupes
made with carburated engines before the injection was introduced. I have
since seen this number somewhere in books too.
Now, neither the 27th or the 67th car makes it the 209th, as the body number
would indicate. So, I am not sure how much you can tell by the body number
unless the number is very low.
Phil Bates
67 MGB
75 Jaguar XJ12C
52 MG TD replicar (VW)
From: Clarence Jeffrey De Witt cj1657@indy.net
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 96 11:59:24 -0500
Subject: Hello; I’m new to the list…
- – [ From: Clarence Jeffrey De Witt * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] –
Hello from Indianapolis, Indiana. I’m new to the jag-lovers list.
Just after college my fascination with British motor cars began with the
opportunity to own a Triumph GT6+ as my first car. I loved it! In the past
20 years I have had several vehicles… the only one I wish I had never let
go is my Triumph. I would love to have a “special car” in my garage to
enjoy driving again on occasions.
Jaguar has (of course) always been at the top of my list of dream cars; but
I’ve not had the serious possibility of purchasing one…until now. An
aquaintance called this week to tell me that he is going to sell his Jaguar
and he recalled that I might be interested.
It’s time to make a decision, but I don’t think I know enough yet about
Jaguars to decide wisely. Any thoughts or advice that experienced Jag
owners can give me would be greatly appreciated.
It is a 1982 XJS 12cyl coupe with 52,000 miles on it. He stores it
during the winters and it looks nice. He does’nt drive it much, or for long
distances.
He said the computer was replaced in it last year. There is a small break
fluid leak, and he adds a little fluid every 60 days or so…he estimates it
would cost about $500 each to repair this. Also he has to have the air
conditioning re-charged every spring; so there may be a leak in that system.
I guess the biggest question that I have for you who know the history of the
breed better than I, is about the year…1982. I have heard that there is a
period of time in Jaguar’s history that you would not want a car…prior to
that time and very recent Jags are fine. Is there REALLY such a period to
avoid? And, is 1982 in that period?
Your comments and advice will be greatly apprciated. This could be my most
serious instance of “impulse buying” yet…and I’m just hoping that it’ not
a very terrible mistake.
Thank you.
Jeff De Witt
From: jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk (Stefan Schulz)
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 1996 19:06:28 GMT
Subject: Kirby Palm’s XJ-S book in postscript format
Hi Folks and Folkesses,
So far I have received about 25 requests for the postscript version of the
XJ-S helpbook to be mailed to people. Before either mailing an aggregate
of 20MB of data or asking Nick to put it up on the website, I guess a test
is in order to find out whether and how well the thing works. I only have
a postscript renderer for Windows, but no printer to try it out on. With
that renderer it works just fine.
If you have a Postscript printer (and time) available, can you please take
a look at
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/suaviter/homepage.htm
download the handbook file and try it out ? It is zipped Postscript, 678KB
long while zipped, 2.2MB unzipped and formatted for A4.
If this one works OK, I’ll generate an 8.5" by 11" version for the Americans
as well and ask Nick Johannessen to put both on his web site.
If it doesn’t… Well,let me know.
Regards,
Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
From: Bill de Jong Cleyndert fu03@dial.pipex.com
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 96 22:36:07 GMT
Subject: E Type
I am considering the viability of using a series 1.5 4.2 fhc or
series 2 fhc as every day transport to cover an annual milage of 30k.
I would greatly appreciate hearing from anyone with any relevant
experiences or thoughts.
Thanks in anticipation.
Bill Cleyndert
Norfolk,
England
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 23 Mar 96 17:23:04 EST
Subject: Leather cracked - repair ??
Hi all,
On my drivers seat the leather on the far right middle (next to where the thigh
rests), has cracked in two places about 2.5 inches long. It looks not very nice
-
- it there a way of repairing this short of stitching (which would look very
DIY…), which could last some time ?, without taking the leather off… Is
it possible to glue a repairing leather behind, underneath the original leather
and then somehow have this to take the strain in the area ?.
- it there a way of repairing this short of stitching (which would look very
Regards Jeffrey Gram
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 23 Mar 96 17:23:07 EST
Subject: Hylomar sealant not good for cam covers.
Hi all
I wrote some time ago to use no original or non-original cam cover gaskets for
the 6 cylinder engine, cam covers but, to use a liquid sealant only and I said
Hylomar. - Well Nemesis has visited me for spewing recommendations before
actually trying the long term effects.
Michael Neal warned agains Hylomar, and I must now stand corrected. Hylomar
cannot be used sucessfully tor cam cover gasket sealent. My engine now don’t
only leak, it pours out…I will fix it with another kind of silicone based
gunge, since I don’t know where to get Hylosil.
- and I have this Sh@#$%^ gunge under the oilpan of the Twelve as well …-
Regards Jeffrey Gram
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 1996 19:43:26 -0600
Subject: 4.2 litre head cracks and new interior
The head cracks you describe are common in older aircraft engines. They
happen when the engine is cooled down too quickly (they call it super
cooled), like climbing to 8,000 feet altitude for about 5 minutes heating
the engine up well, then decending in a glide through all that cool air. I
know because that is what I did and cracked two cylinders. The cracks are
not trivial, at least in an aicraftt as I fould I had low compression in
those two cylinders and that was how I found the cracks. Luckily in an
aircraft you only have to remove the two cylinders that are cracked and
replace them.
I just got my car back from the uphoulstery shop. Materials were $1150 and
labor was $345. I now have all new front and rear seats. Love the smell of
leather. Next I replace the dash which is sitting wrapped in the garage,
the left rear door which is also sitting in the garage and then a new paint
job. It is already prety well restored mechanicaly as I set it up for
racing last year and did all of the mechanical work that needed doing. My
114,000 mile '82 XJ6 is good for another 14 years!!
Jim
“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil
From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 1996 21:31:45 -0500
Subject: Mail Problems with Jag-Lovers?
The last two messages I posted seem to have shown up OK on the mailing list,
but I also got an “undeliverable mail” notice on them. Anyone know what’s
causing this or experiencing the same thing? The notice immediately follows
my signoff. Looks to me as if the server ekeberg.sn.no is sending out
spurious stuff? BTW, I’m now sending the messages to jag-lovers@sn.no
though I also see that the sender is owner-jag-lovers@sn.no . Golly, now I
wish I’d kept all those messages about the host change!!!
-Steve A.
Bad address – baker@lafayett.geoquest.slb.com
Error – Nameserver error: Unknown host
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Date: Wed, 20 Mar 1996 00:54:08 -0500
From: SteveAv@aol.com
Subject: Re: Standard vs. Optional
Sender: owner-jag-lovers@sn.no
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Message-id: 960320005406_450577280@emout10.mail.aol.com
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
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Everything from here on is the usual header gobbledygook!!!
From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 1996 21:31:28 -0500
Subject: Re: The wife has noticed (xj-s vs xj6)
Paul Peard writes:
PP> I’d like to solicit a little net.opinion from everyone on the
PP> merits of getting two babies, one 2 year old and the two of us into
PP> an xj6, is there room? do most normal car seats fit etc. etc., is
PP> the sIII better or worse than the xj40 (as far as moving the family
PP> around).
We’ve got three kids, an XJ6C and an XJ40. The three kids MUCH prefer EITHER
Jaguar to our minivan. They especially like the XJ40 with its reading
lights, fancy ashtrays to play with, & multiple pockets to store stuff in.
If I’m only taking one or two of them, they often PREFER the back seat to
the front which is definitely not the case in the minivan. We put the car
seat in the middle. The kids are 22 months, 5 years and 8 years. Come to
think of it, both the older ones like the E Type best of all, but they only
get to ride in it one at a time. I think I’d be reluctant to take the whole
familiy for a multi-day trip in the XJ40 but it works great for a 4 hour
drive. The XJ6C I’d limit to about a 2 hour drive.
-Steve A.
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 1996 19:28:54 -0800
Subject: Re: Leather cracked - repair ??
Jeffery-
I had this problem. Had an upholstery shop replace the leather as required.
Can’t tell where it was done, looks great, was about $100US. I plan to have
the passenger side done soon.
Good luck!
Hunt
At 05:23 PM 3/23/96 EST, Jeffrey Gram wrote:
Hi all,
On my drivers seat the leather on the far right middle (next to where the thigh rests), has cracked in two places about 2.5 inches long. It looks not very nice it there a way of repairing this short of stitching (which would look very DIY…), which could last some time ?, without taking the leather off… Is it possible to glue a repairing leather behind, underneath the original leather and then somehow have this to take the strain in the area ?. Regards Jeffrey Gram From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli) Date: Sat, 23 Mar 1996 23:39:40 -0500 Subject: Re: 4.2 cyl head cracks At 02:09 PM 3/22/96 -0500, BSherw@aol.com wrote:
I’ve just disassembled and started to clean up the cylinder head from my '85
4.2, prior to rebuild, and I’ve noticed several combustion chambers show
cracks between the exhaust seat and the spark plug hole. The exhaust seats
themselves do not appear cracked or loose. I suspect these cracks do not
connect to the water jacket, and are not of any consequence; but I would feel
better if someone from the group could confirm this. Anyone with any
experience in this area? Any other general hints on cyl. head repair also
would be appreciated.
Optomistically,
Brian Sherwood, '85 XJ6
I had similar cracks on a Mercedes diesel head (between the glow plug
prechamber and the exhaust valve seat). Had it repaired by ‘stitching’,
which is a cold mechanical process commonly used in the commercial and
industrial sector (where castings tend to be large and expensive). Worked
great. Automotive-oriented shops might not have experience with this; try
firms catering to the trucking or marine industries.
Regards,
John
From: “White, Dick” white@msgate.columbiasc.ATTGIS.COM
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 96 23:22:00 edt
Subject: RE: '65 s help
Lloyd,
I have a '64 3.8 S, auto, and LHD. For mine, to remove the radio first
remove the chrome cover (4 screws) on the package shelf just above the
radio. Then fold back the package shelf carpet on each side. Under the
carpet are two more screws. Remove them. Then you can remove the whole
center unit (radio, ash tray, and heater controls) with facia attached by
pulling forward towards the rear of the car. At this point the radio is
easily removed. I think there are a couple of screws which attach the
radio to the sides of the console frame. Pull off the knobs and unscrew
plastic nuts on the radio. I think that should do it.
By the way I’ve owned this car for 17 years and the only reason I removed
the radio was to replace the light bulb. Mine is an AM only radio. I love
the little light on the face which says ‘all transistor.’ So reminiscent of
the 50’s and 60’s.
Good Luck,
Dick White
Columbia, SC
'64 3.8 S-Type
'58 XK150 FHC
From: LLoyd
To: Jag Lovers
Subject: '65 s help
Date: Friday, March 22, 1996 10:20AMA friend has a '65 3.8S and needs to remove the radio for service. He
(and I even looked) can’t seem to find a straight foreward way to remove
it.
Can anyone give us some advise? It is an automatic, if that makes a
difference.Oh, BTW, it’s for sale. He wants $14,500. US for it. Beautiful paint job,
needs some door rubber and the engine compartment is dirty. Leather and
wood
interior are beautiful. Seems a bit pricy to me, is it worth that much?LLoyd
From: “White, Dick” white@msgate.columbiasc.ATTGIS.COM
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 96 23:24:00 edt
Subject: RE: Mail Problems with Jag-Lovers?
Steve,
I have experienced the same thing. I always get about two bounced
addresses. This has been happening for a couple weeks.
Dick White
From: SteveAv
To: jag-lovers
Subject: Mail Problems with Jag-Lovers?
Date: Saturday, March 23, 1996 9:31PMThe last two messages I posted seem to have shown up OK on the mailing
list,
but I also got an “undeliverable mail” notice on them. Anyone know what’s
causing this or experiencing the same thing? The notice immediately
follows
my signoff. Looks to me as if the server ekeberg.sn.no is sending out
spurious stuff? BTW, I’m now sending the messages to jag-lovers@sn.no
though I also see that the sender is owner-jag-lovers@sn.no . Golly, now
I
wish I’d kept all those messages about the host change!!!
-Steve A.
From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 1996 00:13:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Hello; I’m new to the list…
At 11:59 AM 3/23/96 -0500, Clarence Jeffrey De Witt wrote:
I guess the biggest question that I have for you who know the history of the
breed better than I, is about the year…1982. I have heard that there is a
period of time in Jaguar’s history that you would not want a car…prior to
that time and very recent Jags are fine. Is there REALLY such a period to
avoid? And, is 1982 in that period?
FWIW, I bought an '82 XJ-S two years ago. On the one hand, I’ve had my
share of the Jag stuff fail – ECU, climate control, bodged electrics and
vacuum, and so on in addition to the regular wear items. There is always
something to fiddle with and restore or improve.
If I was paying shop rates, this would all get real old real quick and this
is undoubtedly a reason for the Jags reputation and low resale value. But I
enjoy the work and discount or alternative parts are often available. And I
have other cars so it doesn’t matter if the Jag is laid up and I don’t have
time to attend to it right away.
On the other hand, the car has been stone dependable (ie, never a failure that prevented a normal drive home [knock wood]), responds well to modifications, elicits a lot of attention, and is a joy to drive. I believe that the HE cars heralded the advent of the ‘better’ XJ-S’s; the years '82 to '87 have been cited as more desirable in terms of engine performance. If the real expensive stuff on the car is sound (body, suspension, engine, trans) and the price is right (under $5,000 US), I’d do it. Regards, John From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli) Date: Sun, 24 Mar 1996 00:26:57 -0500 Subject: Re: Leather cracked - repair ?? At 05:23 PM 3/23/96 EST, Jeffrey Gram wrote:
Hi all,
On my drivers seat the leather on the far right middle (next to where the
thigh
rests), has cracked in two places about 2.5 inches long. It looks not very nice
- it there a way of repairing this short of stitching (which would look very
DIY…), which could last some time ?, without taking the leather off… Is
it possible to glue a repairing leather behind, underneath the original leather
and then somehow have this to take the strain in the area ?.Regards Jeffrey Gram
You would be surprised at the repairs that are possible on leather! Yes,
you can patch it from behind and it will take the strain, assuming that the
surrounding material itself is not about to self-destruct. You need to use
the right cement and good technique.
Leather repair materials are available from a variety of sources. I have
had excellent results with the materials sold by Bill Hirsch, who advertises
in Hemmings. I have used their various products a number of times with
great success, and they offer excellent technical support.
If you call them they will send you a flyer that explains how to maintain
and repair a leather interior. It covers cleaning, feeding, dyeing, and
scratch, crack, rip and tear repair.
Regards,
John
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 1996 07:56:30 -0100
Subject: Re: Mail Problems with Jag-Lovers?
[ SteveAv@aol.com ]
| The last two messages I posted seem to have shown up OK on the mailing list,
| but I also got an “undeliverable mail” notice on them. Anyone know what’s
| causing this or experiencing the same thing? The notice immediately follows
| my signoff. Looks to me as if the server ekeberg.sn.no is sending out
| spurious stuff? BTW, I’m now sending the messages to jag-lovers@sn.no
| though I also see that the sender is owner-jag-lovers@sn.no .
No need to worry, things are working fine. There have been a
few addresses on the list that have been either out of date,
or plain wrong like baker@lafayett.geoquest.slb.com. I’ve
been keeping an eye on things and have unsubscribed around a
dozen subscribers. Hopefully it will stabilize in a few weeks.
Please, make sure your messages are going to “jag-lovers@sn.no”
and not “owner-jag-lovers”, “jag-lovers-digest” or any other
combination, otherwise they don’t do out to the list.
Nick
<<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>>
<<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>>
The Jaguar enthusiasts WWW-site <<<
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 18:19:21 +0100
Message-Id: 199603251719.SAA10586@ekeberg.sn.no
From: owner-jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #13
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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 25 March 1996 Volume 02 : Number 013
From: RLDesign@aol.com
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 1996 04:40:21 -0500
Subject: New XJ40 update, and Q’s
Well, Jag-Lovers,
I nearly had my Jag a week before I took it into the shop :). If you’ll
recall, it’s a late '88 with 85K on the clock, a good looking car which seems
to have good care until at least 65K, and with an unknown provenance after
that. The shop, by the way, is The Jag Shop in Kirkland, WA, USA, about two
blocks from my home. I’ve always been satisfied with their work, though it
can be pricey.
Anyway, it turns out that my mechanic diagnosed the “low brake pressure”
warnings, along with a couple of other related problems, as failing
self-leveling rear shocks. He recommends the Jaguar kit to replace them with
standard shocks and new rear springs with revised rates, for about $800. I
think I’ll live with it for awhile…
The chip kit for the climate control is about $120, and he thinks it will
cure my climate control problems.
The rest is all pretty trivial, a tune-up and multi-fluid change, new wiper
blade, trying to source the water leak in the front passenger compartment,
alignment, and other misc. claptrap. I had a bulb failure warning which seems
intermittant under braking. I’ll be checking the wattage on the bulbs and
cleaning up their sockets when I get a chance…
Now, my Q’s (thanks for your responses to my others). Repairing the door
handles on the passenger side (neither open from the outside) is quoted as
being a $400-$600 repair. How easy is opening the doors and adjusting the
handles? I don’t want to damage the otherwise good condition of everything on
the doors, but can’t live with this for too long. If I bought new handles,
are they at all improved over the old ones? My mechanic mentioned a repair
kit which was available for the front handles, does this work? What exactly
is wrong with the bleeding things, anyway?
Some ham-handed wide boy, anxious, I’m sure, to remove the precious cellular
antenna he had on the rear window, tore off the strip of trim at the top of
the rear window on the inside. It’s held in place by four of those delightful
“pop” fasteners, three of which have left their broken remnants in the roof.
How can I get them out? pliers won’t budge 'em, careful prying just broke
brittle chunks off, and there seems to be no room to get behind them. Help!
Thanks for listening, and thanks again for your help!
- –Roger Los
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 24 Mar 96 07:55:18 EST
Subject: V12 retrofit of Catalyst possible ??
Hi all,
Can I fit a catalyst (three way regulated) to my 1984 V12 HE sovereign ? (it
never had one). Has anyone done this ?
I presume the ECU can “handle” the signals needed ?, and That I “only” need to
buy the cat, sensors, and then hook them up - but how ??
Regards Jeffrey Gram
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 24 Mar 96 07:55:58 EST
Subject: Jaguar Trade in Values
Hi all,
Jags in germany, 10 - 12 years old fetch prices 10.000 to 5000 DM (divide by 1.5
to get US dollars). I bought mine at 13.000, but spent 6.000 already ( half on
welding window frames and repainting roof). V12’s are difficult to sell due to
taxes on volume and no catalyst is going to be criminal in Germany (honestly).
Mine had 140.000 K = 87500 miles. Still goes excellent. What is the "general
lifetime expectancy of the V12 (in kilometers). I saw one at 465.000 KM, still
running, but sputtering/ difficult start and VERY low oil pressure…
Regards Jeffrey Gram
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 1996 17:41:56 -0100
Subject: Stuborn “Squeak” (rear suspension ?) (fwd)
Please make sure you send messages to “jag-lovers”, not
“jag-lovers-digest”…
- -------- Forwarded message --------
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 1996 09:54:13 -0600 (CST)
From: alforkd@occ-uky.campus.mci.net (Denny Alford)
To: jag-lovers-digest-owner@sn.no
Subject: Stuborn “Squeak” (rear suspension ?)
I have taken as a personal callenge, a persistent “squeak” appearing to come
from the left rear suspension area, a bit forward of the rear axle.
Initially thought it to be related to need for chassis lube. Took car to my
most trusted mechanic, and asked them to do a very thorough chassis
lubrication using the manual as a reference to all grease fittings.
They did. Still squeaks. I’m puzzled.
I believe, judging from the nature of the squeak, that it is related to a
hanger, or support type machanism, since it doesn’t seem to be related to
the geometry of wheel movement when in motion. Pressing down on the left
rear of the body will produce the sqeak when not in motion, but it extremely
difficult to localize the source!
Help!
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 1996 14:39:54 -0500
Subject: Re: V12 retrofit of Catalyst possible ??
Can I fit a catalyst (three way regulated) to my 1984 V12 HE sovereign ? (it
never had one). Has anyone done this ?
I presume the ECU can “handle” the signals needed ?, and That I “only” need to
buy the cat, sensors, and then hook them up - but how ??
Interesting hypothesis. Does the non-cat HE use the same ECU as the cat,
and just leave the oxygen sensors off? If so, it makes for some interesting
conclusions for those of us with the cats. Perhaps an ECU part number check
is in order.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 25 Mar 96 10:25:47
Subject: Re: XJ6C body numbers
Now this is interesting; my '77 XJ12C (the second last imported commercially to
Australia, according to the local C register) has chassis No. 2G1581BW and
engine 7P35084SA - which doesn’t seem to fit in the series.
From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 1996 19:01:38 -0500
Subject: [none]
Hi all,
I hope I have found the right group!
In 1962 I test drove a new (from dealer) '62 E-Type which of
course I could not afford, but it was fun to drive.
Now, (how many?) years later, I have just bought a
'62 E-Type! So dreams do come true even if they
sometimes take longer than you wish. Would love to hear from
other folks with the same car -I have a big restoration ahead of me
although the car is in pretty great shape (it sat in a garage since 1974)
The mechanicals are getting an over-haul now and we hoped
to turn the engine over this weekend. Then a new top, seats,
etc, etc.
Spring, where art thou?
Charles Daly
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 25 Mar 96 11:17:15
Subject: Re: oil pressure
On 24/3, Jeffrey Gram wrote (addressed to me, but judging by content should
have been to list):
Hi all,
On this thread I might raise the question if anyone has or can (Robert dingli
??) advice to to change the gauge(s) for rapid action. As far as I remember the
oil pressure and voltage meters are in actual fact measuring current in a
circuit of variable resistance (the sensor), but that the meter has a capacitor
to have slow reaction.I don’t like this slow reaction, I want to see immediately the change in oil
pressure. I noticed yesterday on my 1974 Mercedes W116 280SE ( nobody want’s
to buy this GermanPussy-cat…)That on rightturns and braking the oil press would dropfrom 3 (max indication )
to 1/2 then back up again. On checking the oil level - (red faced) the engine
missed 2.5 liters… (of 6.5). After a 4000 mile trip at high speed.I only noticed because the oil preesure needle moved fast (1 second from 3 to
1), so now I want this in my jags as well. - But how…Regards Jeffrey Gram.
My 2c worth:
Again, Jeff, it’s the idiot light that matters. If it flashes, your oil pump is
sucking air; if it doesn’t, all is well (you must of course check that it
lights up when you switch on the ignition, to make sure it’s present and
correct). It reacts instantly, even quicker than the most nervous needle, and
attracts the attention better. The gauge is only there a) because it lets you
diagnose some oil system ailments, b) because it creates a comforting illusion
that you know what’s going on and c) because it looks nice.
Having said that, I must also point out that quick gauge reaction is not really
vital as most engines will run entirely oil-less for several minutes without
coming to harm. I had a Chrysler six once that lost its oil pump (drive gears
sheared) at 130 km/h on a freeway and because of traffic, it was a good six
minutes (at rather gentler speed) before I could turn off. Including the minute
or so it took me to convince myself that the light was going to stay lit… On
tearing down the engine, I found that the main and big-end bearings were still
within tolerances for new, and entirely without galling or rub marks.
You’ll see snake oil salesmen at country fairs running sumpless engines at idle
for as much as 20 minutes, allegedly because of their magic oil additives. Any
large car engine will do the same on any reasonable oil, with or without magic
additives.
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 25 Mar 96 11:36:54
Subject: Re: Stuborn “Squeak” (rear suspension ?) (fwd)
What type car?
From: WestNet mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 1996 21:16:52 -0500
Subject: Re: E Type
At 10:36 PM 3/23/96 GMT, you wrote:
I am considering the viability of using a series 1.5 4.2 fhc or
series 2 fhc as every day transport to cover an annual milage of 30k.
I would greatly appreciate hearing from anyone with any relevant
experiences or thoughts.Thanks in anticipation.
Bill Cleyndert
Norfolk,
England
I drive a '69 2+2 for an everyday car during the summer months. It has
107,000 miles, and is running just fine. I do about 10K per year. The key is
to keep the car in tip top shape at all times. If you let something go, it
gets bad very quickly.
Parts supply is no problem. Everything you will need is available mail
order. (My '95 Saab is harder to keep on the road)
In the U.S., you need to do most repairs yourself-garage mechanics had a
tough time with E-types when they were new, nowadays they just stare and
shake their heads. I drove a Mark II in Scotland last year, and had an
overheating problem on the road. I can tell you that your mechanics are
more accustomed to Jaguar design, but no more anxious to get under the hood.
After replacing a hose, one mechanic said to me, “One of these (Mark II’s)
is coming in for a valve job tommorrow. The boys are drawing straws to see
who gets to NOT work on it.” The good news is that the car is fairly rugged,
especially considering it’s age. I’ve never had to walk.
Gas mileage is atrocious by modern standards. I get 14 mpg, with some
performance enhancements. Oil consumption on the 4.2 is not too bad, and I
have had remarkably little trouble with leakage. I use 5w-50 synthetic oil,
which I change every 5,000 miles. Overheating has not been a problem,
although this will probably change when I get the A/C hooked up. Once sorted
out, the electrics will hold up for a good long while, but are definitely a
weak spot.
Rust is the most serious concern. Start with a clean, straight car, avoid
rain and snow. Here in the States, there is a lot of salt on the roads
during winter, so I keep the cat in the garage once the first snow falls.
Parking is also a problem, particularly in urban areas. Those skinny bumpers
just don’t protect the car against modern-day battering rams. I plan my
trips carefully, and always look for someplace that allows perpendicular
parking.
The car is an attention grabber. I suspect that’s why it never has been
stolen-the cops would pick it up in no time.
The car is a delight to drive on the open highway. It can outperform most
modern machinery, and has more style than anything else on the road. The 2+2
definitely gives up some handling to the SWB coupe. On the other hand, the
extra space is handy for luggage, groceries, etc. City driving is a pain,
as the long hood and non-power steering make New York traffic unbearable.
The heater and defroster are pitiful, but the driveline generates enough
heat to keep the interior comfortable for mild winter days. I hope to have
the air conditioning going by June, but I suspect that the cooling power
will be a disappointment.
The collector value of the car is probably not going to diminish as a result
of daily use. A ground-up restoration is always possible, provided you keep
the rust under control. With the quality of spares and reproduction panels,
even a well-used car can look new again.
Good Luck!
Michael Frank
'69 XKE II 2+2
'66 Plymouth Barracuda
'88 Toyota Supra
'95 Saab 900SE
(listed in order of preference)
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 1996 21:32:51 -0500
Subject: Travel
The wife and I will be taking a driving vacation from March 30 to April 13.
We’ll be travelling from our home in NW Florida west to Austin, TX and then
NW to Santa Fe, NM and N into CO, then back home probably through OK or
northern TX. Anybody along that route have a burning desire to meet me? I
dunno how much visiting we’ll wanna do once we get rolling, but if we get a
gracious invitation we might make a stop or two.
And no, we won’t be driving the XJ-S. We’ll be driving a rental car; I’m
not even willing to put those kinda miles on our Hondas!
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 00:09:21 -0500
Subject: Re: V12 retrofit of Catalyst possible ??
At 02:39 PM 3/24/96 -0500, Kirby Palm wrote:
I presume the ECU can “handle” the signals needed ?, and That I “only” need to
buy the cat, sensors, and then hook them up - but how ??Interesting hypothesis. Does the non-cat HE use the same ECU as the cat,
and just leave the oxygen sensors off? If so, it makes for some interesting
conclusions for those of us with the cats. Perhaps an ECU part number check
is in order.
When my ECU died, I spent some time investigating alternative sourcing for a
replacement. Several people – Jag service managers and parts sources –
independently asserted that Jag ECUs are calibrated differently for the
geography the car was originally sold to. The recalibration was for
emissions and climate. (Michael Neal – can you confirm this?) The reason
I bring this up is that the part numbers on the ECUs apparently are
different depending on calibration. So a part number comparison by itself
may not tell us anything. (I ended up with a ‘California’ ECU, and the
engine behaves differently than with the original ‘New York’ ECU. Not
better, not worse; just different in terms of warm-up and regular throttle
response. I don’t know if this is due to calibration differences or a
normal variation between between different analog devices.)
Obviously a Jag without oxygen sensors can never be in closed loop. So did
Jag also eliminate the uneeded circuitry and internal components?
Jeffrey, I don’t suppose you would want to open up your ECU and describe
what’s inside? Does your car have the wiring harness for the O2 sensors,
and do they extend to the multi-pin connector on the ECU?
I still have my old ECU, which works but has an intermittant failure.
Nevertheless, if it would help sort this issue out, I would be happy to lend
it to Jeffrey. Of course, the minute it leaves my hands, my new ECU will
immediately fail. I’ve been holding on to the old ECU as insurance against
the new one failing. ;-]
Regards,
John
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 13:16:05 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: Dealer’s competence or otherwise
Matthias,
I have used a guy in Maidstone (Kent) just of of the M20 (about
40/50 miles from Dover), called Paul Taylor, he does everything
from sticky windows to structural welding (but not paintwork). I
used him to replace a heater core in my xj-s, he was reasonably
priced (200GBP total) for the job and treated the car with a
great deal of respect and delivered a fixed car when he said he
would.He main speciality is A/C but he has had good press from several
people I know for all kinds of things.He is on (44)1622 681233.
I was also impressed that he will only book things in when he
knows he can work on them, no backlog of things to fix, he
starts on your car the day he gets it.Normal disclaimers… I have no association with him other
than as a happy customer.Regards
Paul
Paul,
thank you very much for this information. I called Paul Taylor just
a few minutes ago about the problems I have (whining diff and AC leak)
He gave me some rough estimates of about 600 pounds to fix the diff, maybe
a little more if I would have the rear brakes done at the same time and
about 200 pounds to replace AC hoses and recharge the system.
He was very friendly and I think I will go ahead with him. He is located
not too far from the Eurotunnel, so this is abother advantage. I’ll keep
you posted.
Thanks
-
- Matthias
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 05:56:40 -0100
Subject: '62 E-Type (fwd)
Please… “jag-lovers@sn.no” only.
- -------- Forwarded message --------
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 1996 22:30:58 -0500
From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
To: jag-lovers-owner@sn.no
Subject: '62 E-Type
Hi all,
Thanks John Shuck, for your response.
I’ve changed the address on this note from
jag-lovers@sn.no to jag-lovers-owner, etc,
(don’t know which is correct, but my return mail
of my first posting came back the latter.??)
I was visiting my sister last year, helping to celebrate
her son’s (my nephew’s) birthday. After dinner the
‘boys’ went out to her garage to ‘look at the car’. When I
enquired what car would get them so interested she responded,
“Oh, the old jag.”
“The old WHAT?” I asked, incredulously.
The short version of the story is that she had this '62 E-Type in
her garage, unused, not driven since 1974! And this was the car
I had road tested (not this one, of course) in 1962.
After almost a year of cajoling, etc, I now have my dream car and
it came from my sister’s garage! She lived in another city in '74 and
when she moved here (I’m in Toronto, Canada, BTW) the car was
simply locked up in her garage and forgotten about! In fact, to her it
was a nuisance; always in the way of the lawnmower, etc!!!
Not sure what kind of info you would like to know about it;
She bought it in 1974 and drove it twice and says, it scared her to
drive it, so she parked it!
My good luck (if I can afford such luck) is that the mechanic working on
it apprenticed on the '62 in England.
Regards,
Charles Daly
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 16:11:14 -0100
Subject: Re: The wife has noticed (xj-s vs xj6) (fwd)
- -------- Forwarded message --------
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 11:41:02 +0100 (MET)
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
To: jag-lovers-owner@sn.no
Cc: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Subject: Re: The wife has noticed (xj-s vs xj6)
Just a word about child seats in XJS : After testing a number of them
we found all to be too large for the rear seat, so the child seat would not
stay in place. I finally bought a picknic blanket (assorted to the magnollia
interior) which I put on the rear sets (removed the back seats and attached
it at the back) I then removed the central polster in the rear seats (now
hitten by the blanket). The child seat now has enought place and fits
perfectly. And the leather is protected. Before the leather was mistreated
by the plastic seat moving on it.
Our little daughter (2 1/2 years) really likes the car (I think). A while
ago I found her on her knees in front of one wheel and kissing the Jaguar
logo. When I looked at her, she said “Papa, did you see the cat ?” She also
climbs onto the driver seats, puts in ‘D’ and works then heavenly on the
steering wheel. [I then have to push the car into the garage, usally a few
times …]. Yesterday she got out of the car, closed the door, said “oh oh”,
opened the door and enganged the handbrake. BRAVO !
Have a good day
-
- matthias
From: TALTMAN711@aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 11:07:19 -0500
Subject: jag-list
Sorry, but I have misplaced the address of Lawrence Buja.
I wish to mail a contribution for list maintenance.
Thanks,
Tim Altman
From: “Himes,John W.” jwh@dw.att.com
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 96 08:44:00 PST
Subject: 88 XJ-S Voltage regulator
I have a question to the group while I am waiting for my shop manuals to
come in ( On backorder ). Where is the voltage regulator on a 88 XJ-S V12?
Is it contained within the alternator like most newer cars ( what I
normally have seen on cars I worked on ), or is somewhere in the trunk? My
voltage gauge has been a little “strange” lately. Sometimes the needle will
read toward the bottom of the scale while the car is running. It will
sometimes return to the middle of the gauge after a few minutes. It also
has stayed toward the bottom of the gauge for extend periods of time with no
noticeable dimming of the headlights, radio or other electronics. The gauge
will also sometimes start toward the bottom of the range and step it’s way
up to center.
The normal for this gauge on my car is it reads somewhere between the center
line and the top of the bottom red mark before starting & stays about a
needles with below the center line while motor is running.
John Himes
88 XJ-S 92K miles
From: BSherw@aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 11:20:38 -0500
Subject: 4.2 cyl head cracks
Thanks to all who responded about cracks in 4.2 cyl head combustion chambers-
general consensus was: cracks are >not< normal, and should not be ignored or
repaired… ;( So, I’m now looking for a rebuildable '85 F.I. head. Any
spares in the Indiana U.S. area? I’m waiting on a call back from Just Jags,
in Carmel, IN; possibly one there. Yes, I know a rebuilt head can be
purchased for about 700 dollars US, but I enjoy that kind of work, and would
like to do it myself. That’s what makes the Jaguar so fun to own…so much
to do, so little time.
Brian Sherwood
'85 XJ6, plus heavy cast aluminum door-stop for garage door.
From: “Rybinski, Walt” waltr@gscrb.sandiegoca.attgis.com
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 96 08:12:00 PST
Subject: Slick 50 & other Snake Oils
To all Interested Parties on this Debate,
I found an interesting WEB site that discusses the latest findings on the
Slick-50 type of products. Point your web browser to:
http://wheel.ucdavis.edu/~btcarrol/skeptic/slick50.html
Walt Rybinski
'93 xj6
San Diego, California
From: lingren@alldata.com (Loren Lingren)
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 96 09:03:23 PST
Subject: Comparison - Jag XK8 to a beater
- ----- Begin Included Message -----
From lingren Mon Mar 25 08:25:03 1996
Subject: Comparison - Jag XK8 to a beater
Cc: lingren
Content-Length: 1312
Excerpt from The Herald (newspaper), Everett, WA.
Jaguar: Comes in a range of pastel interiors, has door handles that
protect long fingernails and has lines like a super model.
Beater: Comes in a range of spilled coffee and dried ketchup interiors,
has door handles that sometimes fall off and has lines like Roseanne.
Jaguar: Has a futuristic name, XK8, that evokes image of power and
intrigue.
Beater: Is often saddled with a humiliating moniker that evokes images
of weakness or painful medical procedures: Pinto, Probe, Tracer.
Jaguar: The new model has been four years in development by genius
automobile engineers who work 20-hour days and drink flawless wine aged
half a century in ancient oak barrels.
Beater: Was conceived one afternoon by an engineer named Mel wearing a
white, short-sleeve shirt while drinking a couple of ice cold brews.
Jaguar: Powered by a new four-liter, V8 engine.
Beater: Powered by a used vacuum cleaner.
Jaguar: Built in trendy London, famous for its nightclubs, art and
sophisticated living.
Beater: Comes from a small plant in the Midwest where an auto worker’s
tailgate is plainly visible whenever be bends over to search for a
missing part.
Jaguar: Designed to appeal as much to women as to men.
Beater: Like a Spam sandwich, it doesn’t care if it appeals to you or
not.
- ----- End Included Message -----
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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 26 March 1996 Volume 02 : Number 014
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 18:09:00 -0100
Subject: Bad idle weirdness - the empire strikes back
Ok, part two (this year at least) of my ongoing saga. I’ll
start by summing up the responses I got last time. The sum
total of them covers roughly all aspects of how an engine
works… I never thought this would be easy. Here goes:
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
| I’d suggest two things. First, be sure your ignition is all set
| correctly–spark plug gap, point gap (dwell angle), and advance
| (timing). That’s probably not your primary problem, but it really needs
| to be correctly set befor you mess with the carbs. Eyeballing these
| settings doesn’t come close, unless you’re very lucky. Get a dwell
| meter and a timing light. They are really pretty easy to use.
|
| It really sounds like you may be running an incorrect mixture. With HD8s
| there is an easy check using the piston lift button. Be sure you don’t
| have any vacuum leaks first. Once the ignition is right, you need to
| balance the carbs, baseline the idle speed, adjust the mixture, and
| finally do the final idle speed adjustment. This is, of course,
| simplified. See the Haynes manuals (Jaguar manual and SU Carburetor
| manual) for more specifics.
From: JQJF14A@prodigy.com (MR JOHN W SHUCK)
| I think you are suffering from lack of coil satuation…the points
| are not opening up enough and the spark is weak. Gt a dwell meter.
| this is the best way to checl points. Remember points first…then
| check timing. Points effect…timing does not effect points.
From: Craig Tiano ctiano@voicenet.com
| Nick, Have you checked the “draw” of the carbs? If you’ve got one
| carb running “fast” and the other running “slow”, you’ll find the car
| will idle like crap when warm (because the choke is off) and be a poor
| performer otherwise. The draw of the carbs is adjusted by using an
| airflow meter (I bought mine from JC Whitney for $25), also called a
| “Carberator Synchronizer meter” or “Unisyn”. You remove the air filter
| holder and place the meter against the air inflow side of the carb while
| the car is running. You do it to both carbs and then loosen the connecting
| rod between the 2 carbs, set the slower carb’s idle screw to match the
| airflow rate desired (i.e. holding the meter to that carb, you adjust
| the slower carb to draw up the reading you got from the faster carb),
| then tighten the rod between the carbs. You then set the idle speed by
| adjusting the screw on the one carb so that it no longer is against the
| stop (the rod between the 2 carbs prevents it from moving below the idle
| point already set) and then adjust the idle speed by the other idle screw.
| I should mention that 1) disconnect the vacuum advance before beginning,
| 2) allow the car to warm before beginning, 3) If the auxillary cooling
| fan or A/C is on, you can’t continue until they are off. Note you may
| have to adjust the fast idle after completing this procedure, unless you
| have a manual choke…
From: “NORDLUND, PETER” PETER.NORDLUND@sni.se
| Maybe Your problem is the fuel. It’s sounds too me
| that Your engine dont get enough fuel. So have You
| checkd the fuel line (pump, filter etc).
So, it seems everyone has their own theory
Heres what I’ve done so far:
-
Checked timing. It was at 5 degress at “idle”, and after
som fiddling I got it to about 8-10. At 1500 it’s about 20
degrees, with the vacum-tube disconnected and plugged.Result: No improvement to idle
-
Adjusted dwell angle. It was about 20 degrees, adjusted it
up to about 33. Spec says 35 ±3.Result: No improvement to idle
-
Changed all three fuel filters and air filter. I have a
filter between each tank and pump in addition to the
regular one in the engine bay. The one in the bay looked
really nasty.Result: You guessed…
-
Used a can of carb-cleaner on the carbs. Inside the float
bowls, opened the bells, inside the whatsits and generally
everywhere I could easily dismantle to spray.Result: No improvement to idle, but mid-range performance
is excellent (or did I inhale too much carb-cleaner?) -
Have now bought timing light, diagnostic instrument thingie,
carb sync meter (as recomended by Craig, but as yet untested)
and a compression gauge. So far the idle is as before but the
performance in the mid-range is definitely up on earlier.
So, where do I go from here? What should the readings for the
timing be, at idle and at revs?
As before, any help much appreciated. Even if I’m on a wild
goose chase I at least get to buy some cool tools
Nick, the Jag-lovers made me buy it!
<<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>>
<<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>>
The Jaguar enthusiasts WWW-site <<<
From: “L. W. (Bill) Clark” lwc@fforsm.com
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 09:33:18 -0800
Subject: MkII - Fuel Tank leak…
Had the tank cleaned a wee while back, and find that I have a leak around
the plate holding the fuel level sender.
I overtightened and stripped one thread trying to fix it… can someone
recommend a sealer which is impervious to gasoline.
TIA
Bill
L. W. (Bill) Clark
(415) 919-4061 Office
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 18:34:26 -0100
Subject: Re: Stuborn “Squeak” (rear suspension ?) (fwd) (fwd)
Who had the noisy rear end?
Nick
- -------- Forwarded message --------
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 96 08:04:04 PST
From: “Gregory Andrachuk (SIIIxj6)” MGB@UVVM.UVIC.CA
To: nick@SN.NO
Subject: Re: Stuborn “Squeak” (rear suspension ?) (fwd)
Nick: a friend had the identical problem recently with his 1980 xj6.
The problem was one of the rear shock bushings! The best solution is
replacement of shocks and bushings (it was time), but the squeak was
cured by using a silicone lubricant sprayed on the bushings and
shock shafts. Squeaks are always miserable to find, and sometimes the
“shotgun” appraoch is the most effective means. Anyway, his rear suspension
is now silent and Jag-like. The same thing may work for you. His squeak
was intolerable.
Gregory Andrachuk, Victoria, Canada
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 18:49:50 -0100
Subject: Re: The wife has noticed (xj-s vs xj6) (fwd)
Another one that was mis-addressed…
Nick
- -------- Forwarded message --------
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 11:41:02 +0100 (MET)
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
To: jag-lovers-owner@sn.no
Cc: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Subject: Re: The wife has noticed (xj-s vs xj6)
Just a word about child seats in XJS : After testing a number of them
we found all to be too large for the rear seat, so the child seat would not
stay in place. I finally bought a picknic blanket (assorted to the magnollia
interior) which I put on the rear sets (removed the back seats and attached
it at the back) I then removed the central polster in the rear seats (now
hitten by the blanket). The child seat now has enought place and fits
perfectly. And the leather is protected. Before the leather was mistreated
by the plastic seat moving on it.
Our little daughter (2 1/2 years) really likes the car (I think). A while
ago I found her on her knees in front of one wheel and kissing the Jaguar
logo. When I looked at her, she said “Papa, did you see the cat ?” She also
climbs onto the driver seats, puts in ‘D’ and works then heavenly on the
steering wheel. [I then have to push the car into the garage, usally a few
times …]. Yesterday she got out of the car, closed the door, said “oh oh”,
opened the door and enganged the handbrake. BRAVO !
Have a good day
-
- matthias
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 10:12:19 -0800
Subject: Re: E Type
You wrote:
I am considering the viability of using a series 1.5 4.2 fhc or
series 2 fhc as every day transport to cover an annual milage of 30k.
Hi Bill,
30k pa is high by modern standards much less for an even older car !!!
I would recommend against it, unless you enjoy the AA pick up service
or repairing the car by the side of the road on your way to an
important time sensitive meeting ( like a plane?).
Also you must consider that during its time there were many other
drivers who could not see the bnnnet and hence many dings etc occurred
. not only to the front but also in parking to the rear… Please take
note today’s bumpers are much more sturdy and at 1 mph will crush an
etype without the other driver even noticing…
One of our customers in London has the V12 E and the Mark II convert
. which he alternates in use for commuting in to London… Even in the
garage with a defined space the car is always getting little dents and
scratches…
Sitting on the M25 for a few hours or waiting in a cue for Glynbourne
will not be much appreciated by the car…
If you do decide to use the E then be prepared!!
kind rehgards
tony
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 20:20:28 -0100
Subject: [JagWeb] New for 25th March
New for the 25th March:
Frans Hojkemeyers photos from the Geneva show, featuring
the XK8, the Aston DB7 convertible and various shots of
the XJR and XJ6.
Patrick O’Neill has scanned the sales brochure for the
3.8 Mk2, now available for the gentlemens perusal.
The latest batch of digests is available, up to the last
from the Oz period.
A few news links on the list, Barrats of the UK and the
notorius John’s Cars. Also added the one about Slick-50.
More to come, once I get my head together…
Take care all,
Nick
<<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>>
<<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>>
The Jaguar enthusiasts WWW-site <<<
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 20:20:28 -0100
Subject: [JagWeb] New for 25th March
New for the 25th March:
Frans Hojkemeyers photos from the Geneva show, featuring
the XK8, the Aston DB7 convertible and various shots of
the XJR and XJ6.
Patrick O’Neill has scanned the sales brochure for the
3.8 Mk2, now available for the gentlemens perusal.
The latest batch of digests is available, up to the last
from the Oz period.
A few news links on the list, Barrats of the UK and the
notorius John’s Cars. Also added the one about Slick-50.
More to come, once I get my head together…
Take care all,
Nick
<<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>>
<<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>>
The Jaguar enthusiasts WWW-site <<<
From: LLoyd 3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@cmsa.berkeley.edu
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 96 12:12:07 PST
Subject: Re: The wife has noticed (xj-s vs xj6) (fwd)
…sounds like you are doing a good job parenting…
LLoyd
From: LLoyd 3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@cmsa.berkeley.edu
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 96 13:42:02 PST
Subject: Use an E type??
Bill,
Tony just mentioned a very important thing I had forgotten when I posted
you about daily use of a series I E-type. It will not be happy sitting in
traffic. It will overheat.
LLoyd
From: kboetzer@auspex.com (Ken Boetzer)
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 14:11:45 -0800
Subject: Re: MkII - Fuel Tank leak…
From jag-lovers-owner@sn.no Mon Mar 25 13:51:00 1996
X-Sender: lwc@best.com
X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 1.5.2
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=“us-ascii”
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: MkII - Fuel Tank leak…
Sender: owner-jag-lovers@sn.no
Content-Length: 310Had the tank cleaned a wee while back, and find that I have a leak around
the plate holding the fuel level sender.I overtightened and stripped one thread trying to fix it… can someone
recommend a sealer which is impervious to gasoline.TIA
Bill
L. W. (Bill) Clark
(415) 919-4061 Office
Bill,
I’ve found 3M 8001 to be impervious to almost anything you’ld want to get
near your car. (In-laws excluded ;-).) It’s also available in almost
any auto supply store.
Ken Boetzer
From: “Peter Rebbechi” <"rebbechi peter"@a1.meoc02.sno.mts.dec.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 96 01:49:01 -0500
Subject: XJ40 stuff
Nice to see more XJ40 stuff on the list. A possible future “classic”?
Responses to some questions
- Dowager Straps. on my 88 they sit forward. ie fixing location is
to the rear, strap to the front. Dont know what the plastic could be,
try the (red?) lens cover at the end of the rear armrest.
2.Oil Pressure. Check the sender unit. Had all sorts of problems with
mine, replaced it, and now functions as designed. 2-3 second wait
after startup before pressure registers. - Babies and children and cars. I have 4 children, 15, 13, 10 and 8.
They all love the XJ40 over the family minivan, except for long
trips. We cannot legally all travel in the 40 (6 people), so the van
is for ‘other’ travel. Regular vacation trips of over 3000 km see the
van get a definite vote. You can’t compete with that much room. We
have had the van fitted with a table, and the kids play cards,
monopoly etc on long trips. Don’t forget that the van is designed to
be a UTILITY vehicle, a task it does real well. Handles poorly, is
noisy, and has no yuppie value. But it does what it was designed for.
For other travel, with 2-4 people, the JAG is just so much more
comfortable. You can fit 2 child restraints or baby capsules, and a
normal kid in the rear seat! Just watch the leather under the child
capsules! it is worth a blanket. Don’t however choose a coloured
blanket, as this will stain the seats. - Resale value. I recently went to sell my 88 XJ40, and was shocked
by the low offers from dealers. Yes, it has high mileage (220,000 km)
but is V well looked after, (frequent wedding car). I decided in the
end that it was worth more to me than to others. Agree with Jim
Beckmeyer. Look after it, maintain it, and enjoy it. Lotta car for
the money. Only alternative is to buy the sort of car that is just
the same as any other. I decided to keep the car, and look for
another LBC sports car in addition. My unconvincing reasoning (to the
wife) was that we could then buy a LBC that was not suitable for
everyday driving, (MGA, TR3 or equiv) rather than a car that had to do
double duty.
Time will tell if I just convinced myself the wrong thing.
More soon’
From: REMANKING@aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 19:43:39 -0500
Subject: XK120 Boot braces and pumps.
I have noticed that early 120 do not have the angled bracing in the boot that
runs from the side panels up to the lid gutters on each side. Because these
are absent the tire pump is mounted on the left side of the boot. On the
cars that have the braces the pump is on the right side as there is no room
on the left with the brace there. No question here just an observation,
maybe someone knows when the switch was made.
My question involves the pump hose. Can anyone tell me how the end of the
hose is stowed / secured? Did it just lay on the upper boot floor? Was
wrapped around the pump? Was there a clip or tie to keep it from bouncing
around and scratching the side of the boot compartment? A minor point but
curious, the hose seems to need something to clip to to tidy its appearance
up.
As a side note, Dick did you find anymore goodies at the swap meet besides
your early coil? There was some interesting items there.
From: E-Type Register etype@lupine.demon.co.uk
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 02:22:50 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: Re: E Type
On Sat, 23 Mar 96 fu03@dial.pipex.com wrote:
Subject: E Type
I am considering the viability of using a series 1.5 4.2 fhc or
series 2 fhc as every day transport to cover an annual milage of 30k.
I would greatly appreciate hearing from anyone with any relevant
experiences or thoughts.
I’m building an S2 2+2 with the aim of about half your mileage, ungaraged,
turbo disc wheels (easier to fit tyres/wheel locks, no loose spokes, etc,
wires for special occasions). S2 rear lights are more visible, and
S1.5 headlights are allegedly less effective as the cut out in the
bonnet is a different profile and casts more of a shadow. The S2 brake
calipers are cheaper to rebuild, the servo is better too. The S1.5 gets
the beauty prize though…
Mine is auto (to be converted), but the transmission tunnel is larger,
slightly less sideways leg space.
Most importantly, join the Jaguar Drivers Club (JDC) and Jaguar Enthusiasts
Club (JEC). The JEC contains lots of practical articles, rebuilds and
currently feature an S2 FHC rebuild. The JDC have an excellent E-Type
register and E-Type news section. Give Martin Payne a ring, he arranges
E-Type runs around the continent, etc, and has been driving all sorts of E’s
since the 60’s, many 1000’s of miles.
Finally, get a printed copy of the JDC E-type register for your glove box.
Look up E owners in your area & find out about local garages, etc. Around
3800 E’s listed all around the world. If only for piece of mind, should you
ever be stranded, a call to the nearest E owner may yield a much needed
can of petrol and a cup of tea… To join the register, see below…
Happy motoring,
John.
PS:
To have your car join the other E’s in the JDC E-type register, e-mail your
entry to me, and I will pass it on to Petronnel Payne, the registrar.
Include if poss:
Chassis, Engine and Gear box numbers, Colour, Mileage (Est or actual?),
Year, Reg/license No, Exact model, No of owners, Last renovated, Your
name, address & ZIP code (optional), phone no, any other info to be
recorded.
From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 21:00:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Lloyds welcome
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 14:18:37 -0500
To: LLoyd 3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@cmsa.Berkeley.EDU
From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Subject: Re: Your welcome to meAt 08:35 AM 3/25/96 PST, you wrote:
Congradulations Charles!! I have a '71 series II I hope to have on the road in
another year and a half or so.LLoyd Where are you? I’m near Monterey Ca. USA
Hi Lloyd,
As a newbie to this group I suppose complaining is not expected but, I think
I should get this off my chest. I sent my first mail to this group yesterday,
from Toronto, Canada, telling you all how anxious I was for the arrival of
Spring, since I have just purchased my first ever Jag, a '62 Series 1, OTS!!!
So today I get a nice response from Gregory in Victoria, B.C. (wherein I think
he’s complaining about those pesky tulips and daffodils!) and now an equally
pleasant welcome from you in Monterey, California!! Ok, so what if my E-Type
is somewhere out there in the garage under all that snow!!!Thank you, Lloyd for your response and great luck and fun with your series II!
I do want to know where everyone is from, just hold off on how nice the
weather is
for…oh, six months or so!
Best,
Charles
From: croned@rcinet.com (Daniel Crone)
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 22:56:18 -0500 (EST)
Subject: More XJ40 new owner questions
My machine is an '89 XJ40 with 89K miles.
-
Shop manual needed. Is there a Chilton’s or other manual that can be
ordered for this car? I found a web site, and when I called the number they
wanted to sell me a $275 (US) set of manuals. I don’t want to open a
garage, just repair a few things! -
Whining differentials. I’ve seen several notes about this. I think my
car has it. The whining part I’m sure about. It hums noticeably from 20
mph up. I haven’t noticed a change in pitch with speed though. It sounds
like I’m running mud&snow tires. Its a resonate sound that does not seem to
come from any direction. (The car’s really quiet when its parked, but above
20 mph, you’ll want the radio on to distract you from the droning sound.
I’m exaggerating a bit, I’ve become sensitive to the noise. I’ll get in for
professional diagnosis next week, (and then I’ll take the car to the garage
:-)). Any comments on repairing vs. used diff’s? (My experience has been
most garages would rather swap parts out for new/used/rebuilt than attempt
the repair themselves. I’m thinking a used diff would be a “bargain”, or is
this not the case?) -
Whining differentials - followup. Is this a part that fails frequently?
If so, is it due to PO neglect or mileage or design flaw? (I’ve never had a
diff go bad on an 'Merican car). -
Door locks. Someones been messing with the doors, and they didn’t do
them any good, at least from what I can tell. Linkages and solenoids. What
fun. I’ll do this one myself once I have a manual. I saw another note on
this. Is this a problem with all XJ40’s? -
Parts manual. I’ve got catalogs from several parts houses for my
Triumph, but none for the Jag. Are there such catalogs? -
Small stupid stuff. I need ashtray for door, and chrome trim around
interior door pulls. Junk yard, or parts house?
From: croned@rcinet.com (Daniel Crone)
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 23:06:49 -0500 (EST)
Subject: hydraulic oil for suspension
More 89 XJS questions. The little popup dohickie is red in the hydraulic
suspension tank, so I’m supposed to get it to my Jaguar dealer for him to
fill it according to the owner’s manual. (I’m also supposed to get the Jag
dealer to replace the light bulbs with Jag light bulbs. Yeah, right. Who
wrote this manual, anyway. Jag could have saved paper. One business card
in glove compartment: "If there’s a problem, take to dealer.) What kind of
oil goes in this thing and where do I get it? (Don’t send me to Jaguar. I
don’t feel like “The dealer is your friend” right now.
From: nbx@atom.ansto.gov.au (Ned Blagojevic)
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 15:56:25 +1100 (EST)
Subject: Re: MkII - Fuel Tank leak…
Hi,
I don’t know what 3M 8001 is but it could be silicone based. I would not use
anything that contains silicone near fuel. In time it tends to swell, break
off and block lines and jets.
Ned Blagojevic
I overtightened and stripped one thread trying to fix it… can someone
recommend a sealer which is impervious to gasoline.
Bill,
I’ve found 3M 8001 to be impervious to almost anything you’ld want to get
near your car. (In-laws excluded ;-).) It’s also available in almost
any auto supply store.Ken Boetzer
Ned Blagojevic
Environmental Science Division
Australian Nucler Science Organisation
email: nbx@ansto.gov.au
phone (w)int 61-2-717-3660
fax int 61-2-717-9260
fax 61-2-717-9260
From: Jim Goring jgoring@ccnet.com
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 21:22:11 +0000
Subject: Tranny removal - 3.8 S-type
As i’ve previously mentioned, the BW slush box in my S-type is stuck
in 1st gear for the foreseable future. I’m considering putting in a
GM T700, and am curious if this is going to require removing the motor
from the car. Probably yes, but… anyone yank a tranny out of an S
type lately?
thanks.
- -Jim Goring
From: “Alastar W. Lauener” bu08@central.napier.ac.uk
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 09:07:22 GMT
Subject: S-Type Autobox
Jim Goring said
As i’ve previously mentioned, the BW slush box in my S-type is stuck
in 1st gear for the foreseable future. I’m considering putting in a
GM T700, and am curious if this is going to require removing the motor
from the car. Probably yes, but… anyone yank a tranny out of an S
type lately?
Jim, It is possible to remove the tranny without removing the engine, but
almost everything has to be loosened as the engine has to move down alot at
the rear. Also, to remove the torque converter will require complete engine
removal or drop down to the floor. Your best bet is to remove all and get
plenty of working space.
I found best way was to remove front subframe and have the car really high at
the front, and to remove the engine from underneath and out the front.
Best done with both manifolds removed.
Therefore to overhaul your present box, you don’t need to remove the torque
converter (unless that is the problem bit), but to replace with different
box/converter you will have to remove engine.
Hope this helps
If you gain experience from your mistakes, then I have lots of experience
- Alastair Lauener Work Phone +44 131 455 2458 *
- Chief Technician Fax +44 131 455 2267 *
- Department of Building & Surveying Home Phone +44 1577 864242 *
- Napier University, Edinburgh EH10 5DT a.lauener@central.napier.ac.uk *
- 1964 3.4 S-Type story at http://www.sn.no/home/nick/alas.html *
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Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 05:40:35 +0100
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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 27 March 1996 Volume 02 : Number 015
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 04:35:36 -0800
Subject: #670207
You wrote:
How interesting I saw … several posts on 207 and wondered if it was
not a mistake as the fellow who owns it now was a Doctor( GAry Singer?
)… so yes, I know that car well!!
Herewith some comments…
Of greater interest was the curious ownership history and the fact
that the car had only 14,900 mi when he bought it last year. The story
goes that a>wealthy American from Wisconsin
Wisconsin was the first registration of the car… It was in a museum
most of its life
or Texas bought the car new and took his LHD
toy with him when he made a “tax-haven move” to the Isle of Jersey in
the English Channel.
No, it was sold to a group in the UK who registered the car in Jersey
for tax reasons
The car stayed on the island and had accumulated only 11,000
mi when it was found there and purchased in 1989 by a man from
Florida, a man who owned “Vicarage”.
I bought 207 from Twyford Moors in 1990 and brought it to Florida in
1992 …
Six years and 3000 more miles later, the car was
sold at the January '95 Barrett-Jackson auction and re-sold to my
friend,Gary, shortly thereafter.
I think this is Gary Singer a Doctor who has owned previously a
Vicarage Car ( SI E ) for Joe wells.( dec)
Gary said he located and spoke with this unnamed,
previous owner, “Vicarage person” and learned what had been done to
the car while he owned it. This included re-spray and re-upholstering,
otherwise, it was original.
New chrome windscreen and the car has the unique aluminum bumpers …
not chromed… also has a feature we added to the car which is a shock
absorber on the steering arm…
Kind regards
tony
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 05:17:47 -0800
Subject: Re: Vicarage S-Type Power Steering
You wrote:
Alastair… You will have no real problems at all fitting our rack to
the S type … Please call Malcolm at the factory on 01902 791 816 and
he will gladly walk you through it…
I have decided to fit a Series III rack and pinion like that offered
via
SNG Barratt and supplied by Vicarage. The cost = 900 pounds plus VAT.The problem is the neither Vicarage or Barratt appear to have fitted
their kit to an S Type. The Workshop manuals appear to indicate the
chassis dimentions on the MKII and Stype are identical at the front at
least.
Correct…
The front sub frames on both MKII and S Types are the same so this
should
mean that the kit offered by Barratts should fit if the other data is
the
same.
Yes…
My major worries are 2 fold:
- Ken Jenkins (JEC) tells me that on both the S Type and MKII the RH
chassis
rail needs modification when fitting a series III metric rack. Does
anybody know
the truth of this. (Is the Vicarage rack metric ?)
No… does not matter as it is fitted tot he car within its own system…
some mods may be necessary but do call malcolm…
- The lower and upper steering column is totally different on the S
Typevs the MKII. Does anybody know if the lower steering column on a
MKII will fit an S Type ? If the answer is NO then the Vicarage kit
lower column will not fit my S Type.
Yes it will indeed fit. … slight mods may be required…
Supplementary question: Are the splines the same on the Series III
rack
(metric or otherwise) as the splines on my old power box?
Yes…
I Does anybody have any comments about the
safety implications of this modification?
We can give you the correct proceedure…
kind regards
tony
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
From: wzehring@cmb.biosci.wayne.edu (Will Zehring)
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 08:46:45 -0500
Subject: SS-100
Fellow jag-o-philes:
I just finished reading a very interesting article on the solitary SS-100
coupe, in “Sportscar and Classics.” I am wondering if any list members own
an SS-100. What is it like? Its always seemed to me to be a very stunning
car, but doesn’t get much attention. The coupe was gorgeous! I’d enjoy
reading more about the SS-100 from anyone out there.
Cheers,
Will “can’t afford that one, either” Zehring
67 E-coupe
From: “Alastar W. Lauener” bu08@central.napier.ac.uk
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 14:12:39 GMT
Subject: SS100
Will Zehring said
coupe, in “Sportscar and Classics.” I am wondering if any list members own
an SS-100. What is it like? Its always seemed to me to be a very stunning
car, but doesn’t get much attention. The coupe was gorgeous! I’d enjoy
reading more about the SS-100 from anyone out there.
As far as I know,
Braman (and Don) Wing own an SS100, as well as an XK120 and a MKII
last known e-mail address was bcw6@cornell.edu, try them.
- Alastair Lauener Work Phone +44 131 455 2458 *
- Chief Technician Fax +44 131 455 2267 *
- Department of Building & Surveying Home Phone +44 1577 864242 *
- Napier University, Edinburgh EH10 5DT a.lauener@central.napier.ac.uk *
- 1964 3.4 S-Type story at http://www.sn.no/home/nick/alas.html *
From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 09:50:46 -0500
Subject: Re: MkII - Fuel Tanl leak
My '74 E-Type developed a leak at the fuel sender after a mechanic stripped
one of the bolt holes by cross-threading the bolt into it. I strongly
suggest you repair it properly by going to a real auto parts store (i.e.
not a discount chain) and buying a helicoil kit. They’re inexpensive and
very useful when working on these older cars. The kit includes a special
tap, a helicoil insertion tool and a small starter supply of the coils (may
also include the correct drill bit.)
If you aren’t familiar with helicoils, they are very similar to small coil
springs. They are wound to the right pitch in threads per inch (or mm if
metric) and the wire has a cross section that yields a thread profile
internally and externally. They make for very reliable repairs and are
great for aluminum.
MikeC
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
From: “L. W. (Bill) Clark” lwc@fforsm.com
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 1996 09:33:18 -0800
Subject: MkII - Fuel Tank leak…
Had the tank cleaned a wee while back, and find that I have a leak
around the plate holding the fuel level sender.
I overtightened and stripped one thread trying to fix it… can someone
recommend a sealer which is impervious to gasoline.
From: “Robert A. Bagramian” robtbagr@umich.edu
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 96 13:23:11 -0500
Subject: XJ40
For Dan Crone with whining differential… I had something similar
and traced it to a problem with the heat shield over the main mufflers.
Seems when the shield was held tight against the body it caused a
vibration to occur at certain speeds… Cure was to put some thick
rubber pieces between shield and car body… Bob B. 88 XJ 40
From: Chris Howard christopher@netmanage.com
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 96 10:57:06 GST
Subject: Steering Wheel for 1984 xj6 vdp
Saw a nice steering wheel with wood rim and three spoke design on an
early 80’s xj6 in my town recently, and I am really interested in
replacing my stock wheel with this one, any hints as to where to get
this wheel ? It also had the jaguar cat logo on the centre…
Christopher Howard
Supervisor, Technical Support Group
NetManage, INC. email me at:
10725 DeAnza Blvd. christopher@netmanage.com
Cupertino, CA 95014 our homepage:
<www.netmanage.com>
408/973-8181
408/973-8272 fax Home of the Chameleon !!
From: JQJF14A@prodigy.com (MR JOHN W SHUCK)
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 14:10:18 EST
Subject: Lister Daytona story
Check out the story I did for Motorsport International on the Jag
powered Lister at Daytona. Look under Latest Articles…then…IMSA:
Daytona Lister story (PERSONAL). They also are an excellent source
of motorsport news . Try http://www.motorsport.com/
Thanks…John Shuck, Westport, xk120,e-type
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 15:41:44 -0500
Subject: ECU’s (XJ-S)
Pertaining to the previous discussion about whether the non-emission ECU’s
were different than the emission type, or whether they were the same with
the oxygen sensors missing:
According to the wiring diagrams in the repair manual, the connections to
the ECU appear similar; that, of course, doesn’t mean that the innards are
the same. However, the “UK & Europe” diagram clearly shows nothing
connected to the connectors where the oxygen sensors connect in the “North
American” diagram. Significantly, there is also no test loop on the UK & E
diagram for putting the EFI in closed loop in P or N, and it doesn’t have a
“feedback monitor relay”. In all, the differences appear minor enough you
could actually pull a few wires and relays and simulate the UK & E wiring on
a US car.
Contrary to the other reports, SICP only lists one ECU part number for the
1982-1989-1/2 XJ-S: DAC6335RB. Of course, maybe when you call and actually
try to order one, you get a series of questions about where you live, etc.
But other parts in the catalog are separated by “Federal” vs. “California”
-
– it’s probable that they don’t carry UK & E part numbers at all.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 15:41:36 -0500
Subject: Hunting for Idle (XJ-S)
A data point:
Today I was fiddling with the adjustment on the ECU. The engine was fully
warmed up. I had the test loop removed, meaning the EFI was operating in
closed-loop mode. I turned the adjustment a couple clicks clockwise. Guess
what the engine did?
It started “hunting”. A most pronounced hunting, too; enough to drive one
nuts. Turned the adjustment back ccw a couple clicks, and the hunting stopped.
Note that, no matter what, the engine would not hunt with the EFI in
open-loop mode.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Gregory Andrachuk MGB@UVVM.UVic.CA
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 96 13:17:26 PST
Subject: xj mirror controls
A friend has embarked on a rolling restoration of his sun-damaged 1980
xj6. The exterior is excellent, having been properly resprayed (windows
out, chrome off), but the interior is a mess. His dash has been replaced with
my old one, as I have fitted a NOS dash from Paul-s Jag Parts (looks superb),
and he will be installing my old but very serviceable leather next month
when my new genuine Jaguar leather goes in. But he needs a few other things
and the budget is tight. I wonder if anyone on the list can help. He
needs two early-style electricmirror controls, since neither one works,
and at least one of them has a wire broken right at the switch. The proper
control is the stubby black rubber one that fits into an oblong block of
chrome. The newer style with chrome control levers, and an angled mounting
block, will not fit. Does anyone have a set of working controls they could
sell? Or alternatively, can anyone suggest how to repair the existing ones?
Next item is a working antenna. Again, the budget is tight, hence the
inability to buy a new one. The problem seems to be NOT the motor, but the
nylon feed. I understand that although Jaguar DID supply these separately,
they are no longer available. Does anyone have a working, but surplus
antenna? Any help on these two items would be GREATLY appreciated. The
aim is to keep a great looking Jaguar on the road, complete and working
as it should be.
Gregory Andrachuk, Victoria, Canada
From: Quang Ngo qlogic!ngo@netcom.com
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 09:11:57 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: hydraulic oil for suspension
On Mon, 25 Mar 1996, Daniel Crone wrote:
More 89 XJS questions. The little popup dohickie is red in the hydraulic
suspension tank, so I’m supposed to get it to my Jaguar dealer for him to
fill it according to the owner’s manual. (I’m also supposed to get the Jag
dealer to replace the light bulbs with Jag light bulbs. Yeah, right. Who
wrote this manual, anyway. Jag could have saved paper. One business card
in glove compartment: "If there’s a problem, take to dealer.) What kind of
oil goes in this thing and where do I get it? (Don’t send me to Jaguar. I
don’t feel like “The dealer is your friend” right now.
Man, I’ve been driving my 89 XJ6 with this indicator red that you’re
talking about… I didn’t know about it until I read the manual. Soon as I
discovered that I need to refill the mineral oil I called most local
stores and none of them has it so I had to get it at the dealer. They
told me that only the dealers have this kind of mineral oil. It costs $10
to refill it.
Yeah, I really hate the manual… for only little things they suggest you
to take it to the dealers.
- -Quang (ngo@qlogic.com)
From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 18:07:20 -0500
Subject: Web site-Jan. auction
To all,
Many will probably have this site bookmarked, if not, here is
a listing from a Jan. auction of Classic Cars, (I’m just sending
the jags…there are many more of those other makes.
For the entire list, the Barrett-Jackson Home Page;
http://www.syspac.com/~bjackson/index.html
for just the jags, (most with colour pictures)
http://www.barrett-jackson.com/96cars/jaguar/jaguar.htm
JAGUAR
1936 JAGUAR SALOON 1.5 LITRE 4- DOOR. . . .Picture Available
SOLD - $26,000.00
1937 JAGUAR SS 100 ROADSTER. . . .Picture Available
HIGH BID - $105,000.00
1948 JAGUAR MARK IV DROPHEAD
HIGH BID - $55,000.00
1948 JAGUAR MARK IV DROPHEAD
SOLD - $17,500.00
1952 JAGUAR XK 120 ROADSTER. . . .Picture Available
HIGH BID - $34,000.00
1954 JAGUAR XK 120 DROPHEAD. . . .Picture Available
HIGH BID - $47,000.00
1954 JAGUAR XK 120 DROPHEAD. . . .Picture Available
SOLD - $38,100.00
1954 JAGUAR XK 120 M ROADSTER
SOLD - $57,000.00
1954 JAGUAR XK120M ROADSTER. . . .Picture Available
SOLD - $45,000.00
1955 JAGUAR XK 140 MC ROADSTER. . . .Picture Available
SOLD - $37,500.00
1955 JAGUAR XK 140 MC ROADSTER
SOLD - $46,000.00
1956 JAGUAR MARK VII M SALOON. . . .Picture Available
HIGH BID - $15,000.00
1958 JAGUAR XK 150 DROPHEAD COUPE. . . .Picture Available
HIGH BID - $36,500.00
1958 JAGUAR XK150 S ROADSTER
SOLD - $32,500.00
1959 JAGUAR XK 150 ROADSTER
SOLD - $28,000.00
1959 JAGUAR XK 150 ROADSTER
1959 JAGUAR XK 150 S ROADSTER
HIGH BID - $57,500.00
1960 JAGUAR XK 150 S ROADSTER
SOLD - $40,750.00
1963 JAGUAR XKE COUPE. . . .Picture Available
SOLD - $18,000.00
1963 JAGUAR XKE ROADSTER. . . .Picture Available
SOLD - $57,000.00
1963 JAGUAR XKE SERIES 1 RDSTR
SOLD - $23,500.00
1965 JAGUAR XKE ROADSTER. . . .Picture Available
HIGH BID - $31,000.00
1966 JAGUAR XKE SERIES 1 ROADSTER
SOLD - $33,000.00
1967 JAGUAR XKE ROADSTER. . . .Picture Available
SOLD - $33,000.00
1968 JAGUAR XKE COUPE. . . .Picture Available
HIGH BID - $15,000.00
1968 JAGUAR XKE COUPE. . . .Picture Available
SOLD - $12,500.00
1969 JAGUAR XKE ROADSTER. . . .Picture Available
HIGH BID - $20,000.00
1970 JAGUAR XKE ROADSTER. . . .Picture Available
SOLD - $19,000.00
1973 JAGUAR XKE 2 DOOR ROADSTER
HIGH BID - $29,000.00
1973 JAGUAR XKE V-12 ROADSTER
HIGH BID - $31,000.00
1973 JAGUAR XKE 2+2 COUPE
SOLD - $9,500.00
1973 JAGUAR XKE V-12 ROADSTER. . . .Picture Available
SOLD - $25,500.00
1973 JAGUAR XKE V-12 ROADSTER
SOLD - $33,000.00
1974 JAGUAR XKE ROADSTER. . . .Picture Available
SOLD - $26,250.00
1974 JAGUAR XKE ROADSTER. . . .Picture Available
SOLD - $33,000.00
1976 JAGUAR XJ-6 2-DOOR COUPE
HIGH BID - $6,200.00
1986 JAGUAR XJ 12 COUPE. . . .Picture Available
SOLD - $7,300.00
1991 JAGUAR XJR 15. . . .Picture Available
SOLD - $155,000.00
Please do not drool on the paintwork!
Charles Daly
From: TPatton111@aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 19:50:30 -0500
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #14
I have a 1982 Jaguar XJ6.
I have a question about my AC. One day the AC stopped blowing out cold air. I
drove the car and the air was cool, but when I drove it again the same day,
it only blew out warm air. I checked the fuses and none were blown. Could
this be a relay problem?
Does anyone have any suggestions?
Please e-mail me directly
Thanks
Tim Patton
From: TPatton111@aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 19:55:19 -0500
Subject: oxygen sensor
How do I know if I have a bad oxygen sensor?
Please e-mail me directly.
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 21:42:05 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: hydraulic oil for suspension
More 89 XJS questions. The little popup dohickie is red in the hydraulic
suspension tank, so I’m supposed to get it to my Jaguar dealer for him to
fill it according to the owner’s manual. (I’m also supposed to get the Jag
dealer to replace the light bulbs with Jag light bulbs. Yeah, right. Who
wrote this manual, anyway. Jag could have saved paper. One business card
in glove compartment: "If there’s a problem, take to dealer.) What kind of
oil goes in this thing and where do I get it? (Don’t send me to Jaguar. I
don’t feel like “The dealer is your friend” right now.
The oil is not all that special. There are two sources that I know is the
correct stuff. The obivous one is from Jaguar. It comes in a half liter
bottle, and the bottle has the proper fitting to fill the resoviour. Not
sure what the dealers get for it; I sell it for around $8 a bottle. The
other source is Audi. Comes in a one liter can. You’ll have to fabricate
your own filler. Last time I checked, admittedly several years ago, it was
$30 a can.
On the light bulbs. You need to use the Jaguar, or EXACT equivilent, bulbs, other wise you will be constantly looking at the bulb failiure warning light. These bulbs are again not unique, but they are not common. American parts store are not likely to have them. Randy K. Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli) Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 22:39:22 -0500 Subject: Re: Hunting for Idle (XJ-S) At 03:41 PM 3/26/96 -0500, Kirby Palm wrote:
A data point:
Today I was fiddling with the adjustment on the ECU. The engine was fully
warmed up. I had the test loop removed, meaning the EFI was operating in
closed-loop mode. I turned the adjustment a couple clicks clockwise. Guess
what the engine did?It started “hunting”. A most pronounced hunting, too; enough to drive one
nuts. Turned the adjustment back ccw a couple clicks, and the hunting stopped.
Was is hunting at all when you began? When it stopped, did it also stop
when in gear? Did you try it with your fuel pressure regulators
reconnected? Does the hunting increase gradually, or does it go from no
hunting to pronounced hunting? What happens if you go way ccw with the
adjustment?
Note that, no matter what, the engine would not hunt with the EFI in
open-loop mode.
That makes sense.
Regards,
John
From: kroppe@mich.com
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 96 22:55 EST
Subject: XJ6 Cyl Head - Mail Order Rebuild
Greetings All -
Ahhh… the trials and tribulations one goes through to get a
(assumed) simple task done.
I thought I had my machine shop picked out for my cylinder head
rebuild ('82 XJ6, fuel injected – 12 new guides, 6 exhaust seats,
a helicoil or two and 2 new tappet guides). I went to the shop that
the local (Troy, MI, USA) Jaguar dealer sends his cylinder heads
to. I thought, great, I’ve found the place and let’s get going. I took
my head there (had to lug the thing in the cab of my F150 because
the bed is full of snow, also had to take a 2-hour lunch break) and they
said “we don’t do tappet guides”. Harrumph.
So I scratch up some phone numbers of potential shops in SE Michigan
who may do this kind of thing. No luck. The closest I came was a guy
who rebuilds Lincoln V12s and Cadillac V16s. He said, “I could do it
for you, but I would have to make special tools and make some parts,
and I charge $20,000 for an engine rebuild.” Harrumph.
So I resign myself to maybe I have to send my head to sunny San
Francisco, CA, where, when I visited in October of last year, I spent
an entire (joyful) day going from Jag specialist to Jag specialist.
Seems you can’t get a proper cylinder head rebuild in Detroit for anything
but lumps. I called Terry’s Jaguar and they were very helpful,
but I still haven’t warmed up to the idea of not being
able to supervise the work and to hold the hand of the person doing
the job, as I have found is necessary in a lot of things in life.
I called Welsh Jaguar and they only wanted to give me the “standard”
cylinder head rebuild, whic his more than I want. I asked for some
references and they gave me two shops in SE Michigan they have
done business with. One of them is 5 minutes from where I live.
I went there and his solution for replacing tappet guides is to
pull them out witha slide hammer and special end fitting, and then
press in tappet guides which are in “good” condition froim another
engine. He freezes the tappet guide, but doesn’t heat the head.
The reason for using old tappet guides is that the ones which
come from our trusty mail order houses have oversize outside
diameters, and undersize inside diameters. Seems I can’t find
anyone in Detroit who can re-bore the tappet guide hole in the
head, and ream the inside diameter of the tappet guide for the
tappet.
Two questions for the list:
1. Anyone know of a shop in Michigan or northern Ohio
which can do a proper cylinder head rebuild?
(I want a place which can re-bore tappet guide holes,
and heat the head in an oven.)
- Anyone have success or horror stories in sending their
cylinder heads to a remote location for a rebuild?
(I do not want an exchange head, for originality’s sake.)
Many thanks, as usual.
B.J. Kroppe, '82 XJ6
From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 22:57:29 -0500
Subject: Re: ECU’s (XJ-S)
At 03:41 PM 3/26/96 -0500, Kirby Palm wrote:
Significantly, there is also no test loop on the UK & E
diagram for putting the EFI in closed loop in P or N, and it doesn’t have a
“feedback monitor relay”.
What does the feedback monitor relay do and where is it?
Contrary to the other reports, SICP only lists one ECU part number for the
1982-1989-1/2 XJ-S: DAC6335RB. Of course, maybe when you call and actually
try to order one, you get a series of questions about where you live, etc.
But other parts in the catalog are separated by “Federal” vs. “California”
– it’s probable that they don’t carry UK & E part numbers at all.
I pulled my old ECU off the shelf, and took a look at the numbers. (Once
again, this is out of an '82 XJ-S V12 HE, and I have no way of knowing if it
is the original ECU.)
One side has a Lucas sticker with the number DAC 3586RB. The other side has
another Lucas sticker with the number LRZ119A.
Now I remember that when I ordered my new ECU, the order taker wanted all
the numbers, and I am pretty sure that the new ECU has different numbers (if
necessary I can pull it and check). And yes, I did get a lot of questions
about where I lived and where the car was originally from, even though I
accepted an ECU from ‘someplace else’ (price was too good to pass up!).
Questions: Is my old ECU from some other Jag? Is the part number Kirby
specified a generic replacement? Does the DAC number reflect the
application, and the LRZ number the calibration?
Derivative question: Do all you folks without closed loop see different
performance or fuel mileage than those of us with closed loop? Just curious.
Regards,
John
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 22:13:05 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: More XJ40 new owner questions
- Shop manual needed. Is there a Chilton’s or other manual that can be
ordered for this car? I found a web site, and when I called the number they
wanted to sell me a $275 (US) set of manuals. I don’t want to open a
garage, just repair a few things!
The factory manual is about useless to the home mechanic. Someone here
on the list mentioned getting an aftermarket manual from somewhere. Haven’t
seen it, so I can’t comment.
Whining differentials. I’ve seen several notes about this. I think my
car has it. The whining part I’m sure about. It hums noticeably from 20
…
:-)). Any comments on repairing vs. used diff’s? (My experience has been
most garages would rather swap parts out for new/used/rebuilt than attempt
the repair themselves. I’m thinking a used diff would be a “bargain”, or is
this not the case?)Whining differentials - followup. Is this a part that fails frequently?
If so, is it due to PO neglect or mileage or design flaw? (I’ve never had a
diff go bad on an 'Merican car).
Diff failure is common. It’s bearing failure, caused by low fluid level. First
to go are the stub axle bearings; high and outboard. A minimal bearing, and
last in the lubrication chain. If the owner ignores these noises and
continues with low fluid, the pinion bearings soon follow. Due to the frequency
of failure, I would never put a used diff in. I sell and install rebuilt
units, but this purely for a matter of convinience. Minimum down time. The
core is then rebuilt in house, ready for the next car.
- Door locks. Someones been messing with the doors, and they didn’t do
them any good, at least from what I can tell. Linkages and solenoids. What
fun. I’ll do this one myself once I have a manual. I saw another note on
this. Is this a problem with all XJ40’s?
88, 89, and 90. The new handles are supposedly uprated. I have to admit that
I have yet to see a new handle break. Do not ever adjust the door handle
linkage to cover for the lost motion of a broken exterior handle. Doing this
causes the latch mechanism to be held in a position that is not fully latched.
In some cases, it’s pulled to the point of almost releasing by the adjustment,
since the handle has lost, say, 75% of it’s travel. This can cause the dome
lights to stay on, it will cause the locks to malfunction/jam (usually in the
locked position), and will allow the door to pop open on impact much easier.
If the exterior handle flap does not pull out square with the body, but rather
the front of the flap comes out farther and higher than the rear, the handle
is broken and must be replaced.
- Small stupid stuff. I need ashtray for door, and chrome trim around
interior door pulls. Junk yard, or parts house?
Not normal failure items, so a junk yard; if you can find one that will
sell these little parts. They tend to want to sell the complete door.
Of the parts you listed, I may have the ashtray for the right front.
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #15
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Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 21:50:29 +0100
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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 27 March 1996 Volume 02 : Number 016
From: blackmx5@usa.pipeline.com (Lawrence Karpman)
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 1996 23:43:28 -0500
Subject: Braking Problem
My XJ-6 SIII is have a braking problem. Several times during a days
driving, the brake pedal will go quite far, with little braking action,
then with a second application they work normally. Not quite pumping, so to
speak.
Several weeks ago, I noted low brake fluid level, and refilled the
reservoir. I’m sure I’ve got air in the lines. What is the most likely
cause? I’ll have the carchecked for leaking calipers, etc., and really hope
it’s not the master cylinder.
Any thoughts?
Larry Karpman
'85 XJ-6
From: *** mneal@wco.com
Date: Tue, 26 Mar 96 22:26:10 -0800
Subject: RE: Hunting for Idle (XJ-S)
Kirby,
The XJS is sensitive to mixture adjustments. In closed loop it runs on the rich side, hence the smooth idle. In closed loop when you turned the adjuster clockwise, and leaned the mixture, it started hunting. When you turned the adjuster back the mixture richened up again. Try monitoring your oxygen sensors and you will see the difference.
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 1996 12:42 PM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Hunting for Idle (XJ-S)
A data point:
Today I was fiddling with the adjustment on the ECU. The engine was fully
warmed up. I had the test loop removed, meaning the EFI was operating in
closed-loop mode. I turned the adjustment a couple clicks clockwise. Guess
what the engine did?
It started “hunting”. A most pronounced hunting, too; enough to drive one
nuts. Turned the adjustment back ccw a couple clicks, and the hunting stopped.
Note that, no matter what, the engine would not hunt with the EFI in
open-loop mode.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Donald.McGregor@snl.co.uk
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 09:49:21 GMT
Subject: Re: hydraulic oil for suspension
Believe me, I searched high and low for another source of HSMO (
Hydraulic System Mineral Oil) and I couldn’t find one anywhere. Jaguar
use CASTROL HSMO oils and they are resonably priced at only about
#3.00 UK per half litre. I think the system only holds about 1.5
litres maximum.
The oil carton has a special tube which locks onto the reservoir
top-up hole.
One instance that you will definately have to visit the Jaguar garage
-
-
just get some brochures while your there to make up for it.
You’ve guessed it ‘The dealer really is your friend’ on this instance.Donald.
-
From: Donald.McGregor@snl.co.uk
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 10:04:15 GMT
Subject: UK (Jaguar & Daimler) spare parts supplier
I recieved my spare parts list and prices for my XJ40 from David
Manners this week.
Although the prices don’t appear to be any less expensive than Jaguar
dealers it’s
probably worth a phonecall to get your free price list for comparison.
The only parts
they do not seem to supply are interior trim and fittings. Nor could I
find any
reference to any Air-Conditioning related parts.
Parts lists and prices for almost all Jaguar models including
Daimler V8 250, XJ6 series I, II and III, XJ40, E type series
1 and 3
Mk 1 and Mk 2, 240 and 340, S-type and 420, Daimler SP250,
XJS and XK140/XK150
All are available from:
David Manners (Parts for Jaguar and Daimler Cars)
991 Wolverhampton Road,
Oldbury,
West Midlands
B69 4RJ
ENGLAND
Tel: (44) 0121 544 4040
Fax: (44) 0121 544 5558
From: david@ipelond.co.uk (David Brown)
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 11:26:10 GMT
Subject: Bits for Daimler V8 Wanted!
Hi,
Does anyone on the list (preferably in UK) have, or know of, the following
two bits for sale, new or secondhand:, for an automatic Daimler 250 V8
The centre Daimler badge for the steering wheel;
The underside cover of the steering column (the bit you bang your knees on!)
I’ve tried various breakers but with little success. Your help, as usual,
will be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
David
David Brown, IPE
david@ipelond.co.uk
///_/_/_/_/////_///______
/_/_//_/_/_/_/_/____
/_/_/_/_/______/_/_/_/______
/_/_/_/_/_/_/________/_/_____
___/_/_/////_/_/_/_/_/______
/_/___/_/_//_/_/_/____
///_/_/_/____/////_///_________
From: “Alastar W. Lauener” bu08@central.napier.ac.uk
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 11:37:13 GMT
Subject: Re: Bits for Daimler V8 Wanted!
The underside cover of the steering column (the bit you bang your knees on!)
Very Very rare!
- Alastair Lauener Work Phone +44 131 455 2458 *
- Chief Technician Fax +44 131 455 2267 *
- Department of Building & Surveying Home Phone +44 1577 864242 *
- Napier University, Edinburgh EH10 5DT a.lauener@central.napier.ac.uk *
- 1964 3.4 S-Type story at http://www.sn.no/home/nick/alas.html *
From: David Wood David.Wood@durham.ac.uk
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 12:17:05 PST
Subject: sad xjs
Dear all,
I’ve just passed a sad xjs in an estate agent’s (realtor’s??) car park.
The car is a 3.6, only from 86/87, but has obviously been resting for a while. The
tyres are flat, so is much of the paintwork, and the bottom edges of most body
panels are showing signs of decay. The interior is shabby, especially the back
seats, which contain a newspaper from August 1994. The car shows 93k miles.
Who would leave such a newish car to get in this state? At least store it or sell it.
What a waste!
Cheers,
Dave Wood.
From: GNKP18A@prodigy.com ( JOHN T HORNER)
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 08:34:16 EST
Subject: Any Experience With Crane’s Electronic Ignition Retrofit?
- – [ From: John Horner * EMC.Ver #2.10P ] –
I’ve recently received a Crane optical electronic ignition upgrade unit
I’m planning to install on our '67 420G (4.2L/3-carb) in hopes of
getting a better, more consistent spark and reduced maintainance.
It’s a pretty straightforward affair of optical sensor plus control
box.
Before I install it (thus eliminating the chance to return it for a
refund) I thought I should get jag-lovers wisdom on the goodness of
this upgrade.
I realize it isn’t stock, but it will be something I can easily reverse
back to good old points should the need or mood ever arise.
TIA.
From: “J.W. Beckmeyer” 73131.3076@compuserve.com
Date: 27 Mar 96 08:51:39 EST
Subject: XJ40 Differential Noise (Was more XJ40 new owner questions)
Randy wrote:
Diff failure is common. It’s bearing failure, caused by low
fluid level.
Randy,
The sixty-four dollar question (or should that be one thousand dollar question?)
is how can one differentiate between plain old tire noise and differential
bearing failure? Is it a matter of “you know it when you hear it” or is there
some way for me to check this out.
I’ve got noise, that’s for sure. Unfortunately, the closest Jag tech is seventy
miles away so just dropping by for him to have a listen is an all day
proposition that I would rather avoid, if possible.
BTW, diff fluid level is okay…I’ve already checked that as part of my routine
maint.
Best regards,
Jim Beckmeyer Union CIty, MI USA
e-mail: 73131.3076@compuserve.com
90 Jaguar XJ-40-Sovereign
60 Jaguar MK II
From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 07:56:53 -0700 (MST)
Subject: – Fund raiser: Last call –
{Sorry, but I have misplaced the address of Lawrence Buja.
{I wish to mail a contribution for list maintenance.
Since a couple people have asked me for this, I’ll post the
announcement one last time before the fund-raiser closes.
I’ve been asked to run the collection to raise the money to pay for
running the Jaguar mail list. Given the sentiments voiced last winter
about list members not wanting to be exposed to constant beg-a-thons here,
let’s consider this an extension of the WWW collection. I’ll keep it
low key and there won’t be any more fundraisers until next year at this
time. The deliverables for this fund raiser are that Nick will maintain
and run the Jaguar list for the next year.
I will run this fund in the same manner as the previous funds:
-
- Contributors names will be greatfully acknowledged, but only the fund
total will be published.
- Contributors names will be greatfully acknowledged, but only the fund
-
- As an accounting safeguard, any contributor who asks will receive a
copy of the list of individual fund contributors and the amounts.
- As an accounting safeguard, any contributor who asks will receive a
-
- You are encouraged to send pictures with your contribution and
hopefully Nick will add them to the members pictures page on the web
(it helps if you (and any signicant others) appear in the picture to
add some personality to it).
- You are encouraged to send pictures with your contribution and
-
- Please send US checks or cash only.
-
- The closing date is Mar 31, at which time I’ll send one cheque to Nick.
-
- Send Contributions to: Lawrence Buja (Jag-list fund)
525 S. 43rd St
Boulder CO 80303-6009
- Send Contributions to: Lawrence Buja (Jag-list fund)
/\ Lawrence Buja http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern/
_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
________________Boulder,Colorado___80307-3000
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 10:14:08 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ40 Differential Noise (Was more XJ40 new owner questions)
Randy wrote:
Diff failure is common. It’s bearing failure, caused by low
fluid level.Randy,
The sixty-four dollar question (or should that be one thousand dollar question?)
is how can one differentiate between plain old tire noise and differential
bearing failure? Is it a matter of “you know it when you hear it” or is there
some way for me to check this out.
Sometimes it is hard to tell,Jag’s sound deadning being as good as it is. If
the noise varies both with speed, and engine load, it is most likely the diff.
If it is constant, no matter the engine load, it may still be the diff. You
can try having some one else drive the car while you are in the back seat.
Or, if you have the proper equipment to do this safely, have someone “drive”
the car while the rear wheels are in the air. Crawl underneath and listen to
the diff and hubs with a stethoscope. I obviously can not recommend this
procedure… especially if all that is available are jackstands. I do this
with the car on a lift and stands. This technic does not always work, as
there is no load on the system.
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 10:16:34 -0500
Subject: Re: ECU’s (XJ-S)
What does the feedback monitor relay do…?
Man, you got me. Looking at the diagrams, it appears all but worthless, a
relay that simply operates another relay. The only thing I can figure is
that it is necessary for the circuit that includes the test loop to function
properly – ground when starter inhibit is off, 12V through a relay coil
otherwise.
…and where is it?
I think it’s one of those relays right near the ECU in the boot.
Contrary to the other reports, SICP only lists one ECU part number for the
1982-1989-1/2 XJ-S: DAC6335RB.I pulled my old ECU off the shelf, and took a look at the numbers. (Once
again, this is out of an '82 XJ-S V12 HE, and I have no way of knowing if it
is the original ECU.)One side has a Lucas sticker with the number DAC 3586RB. The other side has
another Lucas sticker with the number LRZ119A.
SICP lists the LRZ103 as 1976-80, the LRZ113 as 1980-82, and the DAC6337 for
1989-1/2 on. No comments about California or Federal, nothing about US or
non-US.
Questions: Is my old ECU from some other Jag? Is the part number Kirby
specified a generic replacement? Does the DAC number reflect the
application, and the LRZ number the calibration?
Somebody who knows please answer! Michael Neal, we need you!
Derivative question: Do all you folks without closed loop see different
performance or fuel mileage than those of us with closed loop?
Yeah, right. Like there’s a lot of guys in this group that have driven
totally identical cars except for closed- vs. open-loop EFI.
You can make a general assumption though. Cars where emissions are
regulated got closed-loop systems. Cars where emissions are unregulated got
open-loop systems. If the closed-loop systems provided better performance
and/or mileage, wouldn’t everybody have gotten them?
Dingli gave me some fuel/air mixture data indicating, essentially, that
closed-loop provides optimum emissions but not optimum fuel economy or
power. But, I’ll let him talk about that if he wants.
Here’s a question: did Jaguar make any open-loop HE models with 11.5:1
compression, or were they all 12.5:1?
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 10:16:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Hunting for Idle (XJ-S)
Was is hunting at all when you began?
No.
When it stopped, did it also stop
when in gear?
Reminder: my car is a 5-speed manual. The starter inhibit switch is in a
bag in my attic, and the only way to change from open-loop to closed-loop
operation is via the test loop. The torque convertor is similarly stored,
there’s a 10.4" Chevy clutch in there.
Did you try it with your fuel pressure regulators
reconnected?
Interesting you should ask – and remember that one of mine is disconnected.
The answer is yes. I reconnected the vacuum line to my regulator, and it
seemed to have about the same effect as a couple clicks ccw on the adjuster
- – both in reducing the hunting, and in making the idle stumble more. If I
went cw another two clicks, the hunting came back, but the stumble reduced.
Does the hunting increase gradually, or does it go from no
hunting to pronounced hunting?
It goes from no noticeable hunting to fairly big-time hunting in two clicks.
What happens if you go way ccw with the
adjustment?
The farther cw I go, the less stumble the engine has, open-loop or
closed-loop. In closed-loop, it hunts something fierce after a certain
point. In open loop, it idles really smooth all the way cw.
The farther ccw I go, the worse it seems to run, sputtering and otherwise
objecting.
Since my car is a manual, I have a problem the rest of you don’t: when in
closed-loop mode (test loop disconnected) and I drop the throttle to idle
and push in the clutch, the engine sometimes dies – and always comes close.
Something about this mode, it drops nearly off and then comes back up to
idle. No such action in open-loop mode. After some discussion with Robert
Dingli, I have pretty much decided to leave the system in open-loop for now,
hence I turned the adjuster all the way cw for the smoothest idle.
As a side note, I am considering readjusting the throttle pot so that the
ECU never thinks the engine is at idle, and going back to closed-loop
operation. This might eliminate both the hunting and the engine dying
problems. Wish I understood the system well enough to know before trying.
Note that, no matter what, the engine would not hunt with the EFI in
open-loop mode.That makes sense.
I’m glad it does. However, I seem to recall that you can get hunting with a
carburetted engine under certain conditions, so I’m not sure the cause is
that obvious. Do you expect that cw makes the mixture richer, and the ECU
trims back and forth trying to lean it out? If so, why? Why would it hunt
any more with it adjusted rich than with it adjusted lean?
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Gavin Murphy gmurphy@telalink.net
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 09:17:20 -0600
Subject: RE: More XJ40 new owner questions
Randy,
I am in the market for a rebuilt diff for an '83 XJ6. Can you give me =
an idea of cost both for the diff and including installation?
Also where are you located?
Thanks,
Gavin Murphy=20
83 XJ6 VDP
From: Randy Wilson[SMTP:randy@taylor.infi.net]
Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 1996 4:13 PM
To: jag
Subject: Re: More XJ40 new owner questions
Diff failure is common. It’s bearing failure, caused by low fluid level. =
First
to go are the stub axle bearings; high and outboard. A minimal bearing, =
and last in the lubrication chain. If the owner ignores these noises and =
continues with low fluid, the pinion bearings soon follow. Due to the =
frequency of failure, I would never put a used diff in. I sell and =
install rebuilt
units, but this purely for a matter of convinience. Minimum down time. =
The
core is then rebuilt in house, ready for the next car.
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 16:25:37 -0100
Subject: more beastly idly stuff
The quest for the perfect idle continues…
Working from the theory that the poor idle could be due
to vaccuum-leaks I today ventured into the nether regions
of the engine compartment in search of leaky bits. I have
discovered minimal amounts of information, and what I
have discovered I am unable to make sense of. Here goes:
There is a thin plastic tube running from between the
where the bracing struts in the compartement meet and
down to somewhere just behind the right hand side wheel.
I have a recollection that there was some entertainment
to be found in removing this tube and replacing it while
the engine was running. I believe it is the vaccuum control
for the flaps in the heater system.
There is a fairly thick rubber tube running from the brake
booster that ends up in the inlet manifold, roughly at the
mid-point between the two HD8’s. Now, I tried removing this
tube from the brake booster with a result that surprised me.
The engine ran smoother, very much smoother. If I put my
finger over the end of the tube I can feel it sucking with
quite considerable force, and the engine immediately runs
like crap again.
Now, does this tell me anything useful?
To recap: to HD8’s, no emissions control, warm engine,
timing and dwell are within specs.
Nick, clueless in Norway
<<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>>
<<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>>
The Jaguar enthusiasts WWW-site <<<
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 16:44:49 -0100
Subject: [JagWeb] New stuff 27th March 1996
Two new features open as of today:
-
The Jaguar Enthusiasts Club, region Glasgow, Scotland
present themself and their activities, courtesy
Alastair Reynolds. -
Photos from Doug Bohannons visit to Walter Hills
incredible collection of Jaguars are now released.
This really is something worth seeing. The captions
are by me, and are quite awful, so if anyone would
like to improve on them they are welcome.
Now if only Lawrence would get the monster guide finished…
Nick
<<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>>
<<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>>
The Jaguar enthusiasts WWW-site <<<
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 11:25:19 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ40 Differential Noise
…how can one differentiate between plain old tire noise and differential
bearing failure?
Suggestion #1: Tire noise would change with pavement type, wouldn’t it?
Suggestion #2: Put rear of car on jackstands, run up to highway speed.
Guaranteed no tire noise.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 17:35:07 -0100
Subject: Re: more beastly idly stuff
[ “Alastar W. Lauener” bu08@central.napier.ac.uk ]
|
| > Now, does this tell me anything useful?
| Well, I believe that something like this.
| Normally, doing this would make the engine run very very weak (lean).
| If this makes your engine run corrctly, then your engine has been running rich
| ie your carbs must be set very rich or if not your air cleaner is blocked.
| When you disconnect that tube, does the engine still respond and pick up well
| and if you use the carb lifting pin, what effect do you get.
With the tube disconnected the car runs super smooth But
the braking was so hard that I nearly drove through the wall!
When I pressed up the pins the car would splutter and die,
virtually instantly. Just a sec and I’ll dash out and reconnect
the engine vaccuum and se what gives then.
10 minutes later
Ok, I’m back. With the vaccuum-tube re-connected the push-the-pin
test gives a result of nearly no change in running, maybe just a
little faster but not the rising and rising as descibed in the book.
If pushed right in it would lean out and want to die.
The air cleaner is brand new.
But, I’ll confess I fiddled a bit with the mixture screws
just now and I could swear it ran a bit smoother. Will
report back tomorrow after the run in to work. Please note,
I will have the vaccuum-tube to the brake servo connected
Nick, picking up clues here and there
<<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>>
<<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>>
The Jaguar enthusiasts WWW-site <<<
From: henning@fp.com (Eric Henning)
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 13:35:15 -0500
Subject: Hello
Well, I’ve lurked long enough (2 days).
I am new to this list, do not have any Jaguar yet, but am in pursuit.
Originally the XJ-S was my favorite production car in the whole world, but
now as I’ve grown older, had children (still have have’em too ) I’ve
become enamored with the XJ sedan. Particularly the XJ6 SIII. I believe
it is time to cast aside the Fiat Spider (1980, 48k miles really clean)
a jump into an XJ6. In the Philadelphia area there seems to be shortage
of early 80’s XJ6s. I’ve seen them on corner sales lots for between
$2-5000.00. I have not seen many in private sales though. I’d prefer
not to buy from one of these corner lots because of the lack of service
records and general lack of any history at all on these cars. Anyhow, I
plan on having a pre-purchase inspection at the local Jaguar dealer on
any car I’m serious about.
In reviewing the archives of this list it seems for the price an early 80’s
Jag may be a good starting place. I briefly considered a MKII but after
reading Merrit Smith’s excellent/sad adventure (truly a great story, it
made me laugh, it made me cry) I’ve decided to go slightly more modern.
So what is the point of all this… Well 1.) to introduce myself and 2.) to
ask if anybody knows of any XJ6 in for sale running condition, reasonbly
priced, Philadelphia (PA, NJ) area, let me know. Thanks.
Eric Henning
henning@fp.com
91 Caravan
86 VW Golf (best guess, 150k and still going strong)
80 Fiat Spider (impulse buy, but the Pininfarina styling! :)?? XJ6
From: TezFair@aol.com
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 13:44:54 -0500
Subject: hot news from the factory
The X200 has been given the go ahead after the EC finally gave Jaguar the
#80m required to fund the project. This will create up to 1300 new jobs in
the Midlands.
This is the last few days of the XJS. Next Thursday afternoon sees the last
‘S’ roll off the production line at Browns Lane. The final car - a V12
convertable will be put into the museum (JDHT) at the Browns Lane site.
From: henning@fp.com (Eric Henning)
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 15:44:23 -0500
Subject: hello again
My apologies if this gets posted twice but I don’t think it made it
the first time
Well, I’ve lurked long enough (2 days).
I am new to this list, do not have any Jaguar yet, but am in pursuit.
Originally the XJ-S was my favorite production car in the whole world, but
now as I’ve grown older, had children (still have have’em too ) I’ve
become enamored with the XJ sedan. Particularly the XJ6 SIII. I believe
it is time to cast aside the Fiat Spider (1980, 48k miles really clean)
a jump into an XJ6. In the Philadelphia area there seems to be shortage
of early 80’s XJ6s. I’ve seen them on corner sales lots for between
$2-5000.00. I have not seen many in private sales though. I’d prefer
not to buy from one of these corner lots because of the lack of service
records and general lack of any history at all on these cars. Anyhow, I
plan on having a pre-purchase inspection at the local Jaguar dealer on
any car I’m serious about.
In reviewing the archives of this list it seems for the price an early 80’s
Jag may be a good starting place. I briefly considered a MKII but after
reading Merrit Smith’s excellent/sad adventure (truly a great story, it
made me laugh, it made me cry) I’ve decided to go slightly more modern.
So what is the point of all this… Well 1.) to introduce myself and 2.) to
ask if anybody knows of any XJ6 in for sale running condition, reasonbly
priced, Philadelphia (PA, NJ) area, let me know. Thanks.
by the way, that MKII is still available, white with red leather interior.
a little rough around the edges but told it will start however it will leak
from every piece of rubber tubing and gasketing. $1500.00 Phily area.
Eric Henning
henning@fp.com
91 Caravan
86 VW Golf (best guess, 150k and still going strong)
80 Fiat Spider (impulse buy, but the Pininfarina styling! :)?? XJ6
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #16
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id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Thu, 28 Mar 1996 07:40:02 +0100
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 07:40:02 +0100
Message-Id: 199603280640.HAA26817@ekeberg.sn.no
X-UIDL: 828002568.000
From: owner-jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #17
Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Errors-To: owner-jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Precedence: bulk
Status: RO
X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest
jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 28 March 1996 Volume 02 : Number 017
From: miurasv miurasv@ebicom.net
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 14:50:00 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Any Experience With Crane’s Electronic Ignition Retrofit?
I have used Allyson units in all of my vehicles (an XKE, 2 Ferraris, a
Lamborghini, a Grand Prix) that did not come with electronic ignitions.
The Crane unit is the same unit. I know because one Allyson burned out
after 15 years
and I had to replace it under warranty in one of the Ferraris. The unit
is great especially in a car that is not driven much. There are no
points to corrode and none to replace. The unit is also very durable. I
think it is a very wise move. AL
On Wed, 27 Mar 1996, JOHN T HORNER wrote:
– [ From: John Horner * EMC.Ver #2.10P ] –
I’ve recently received a Crane optical electronic ignition upgrade unit
I’m planning to install on our '67 420G (4.2L/3-carb) in hopes of
getting a better, more consistent spark and reduced maintainance.It’s a pretty straightforward affair of optical sensor plus control
box.Before I install it (thus eliminating the chance to return it for a
refund) I thought I should get jag-lovers wisdom on the goodness of
this upgrade.I realize it isn’t stock, but it will be something I can easily reverse
back to good old points should the need or mood ever arise.TIA.
From: “Jim Cantrell” JIMC@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 14:57:56 MDT
Subject: Gas tank sealers
Hello all,
This is likely to be old hat for many of you, but I am looking for
your experiences regarding rusted jag gas tanks. The XJ6 that I have
has one of the two tanks that has rusted since it ingested about 3
gallons of water when it sat for what I estimate as 7 years via the
PO. I pulled the fuel pump out of the tank (which was trashed) and
noticed that the interior is quite rusty. No holes or leaks that I
can see or any seen when I drained and filled the tank. The question
is, what course of action should one take when trying to restore the
tank ? I know that some tanks have an internal coating that is
supposed to prevent this kind of corrosion and thus should not be hot
tanked. Also the radiator shop said that hot tanking them would not
necessarily get rid of any more than the loose scale. I was
wondering about cleaning/hot tanking followed by a sealer like that
sold by Hirsch. What about the “etchers” that they sell ? Is this
all snake oil ? Have any of you had experience with this ? I would
be most grateful to hear about your experiences.
Best regards,
JIm Cantrell
76 XJ12C
76 XJ6C
From: Jim Marsden JMARSDEN@corel.com
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 15:44:41 -0700
Subject: 85 XJS won’t run above idle
Hi all,
I’m new to this list and new to owning a Jag. My name is Jim Marsden and
I live in Utah. I have wanted to own a Jag ever since my High School days.
In Southern California where I grew up I had an after school job in a import
car repair shop, run by a previous race car driver who raced MG’s and
Jags. It was here where I worked for hours on not much else but 60’s and
early 70’s E-type roadsters and big XJ6 and V12 sedans. I loved the smell
of their insides and sometimes just sit in them during my break time to
admire the fine leather and woodwork.
I picked up a 85 XJS HE three weeks ago for a very reasonable sum.
Newspaper add said “has engine, wont run”. Turns out it was a dealer who
bought it at an auction, that got stuck with something he didn’t know how
to handle. Car ran fine (except slight ticking noise) from the auction for the
dealer, then wouldn’t start. After a cooling down period it ran again. He took
it to a “mechanic” (I use the term very losely) who proceeded to remove
the radiator and water pump! The dealer’ s son then tried to remove the
cam cover on the left side! Along I came, and with a few years of jag
experience I had in the early 70’s, I thought I could rescue the poor thing
and make it growl again. Here’s the problem: Everything’s back together
and it starts but wont go any higher than idle. Ive checked the wiring on the
right side by the radiator (where is that coolent sensor anyway?) for the
missing ground and even the resistance of the throttle pot (starts at 200K
and goes to 22K or so). Ive checked the fuel filter for obstructions also. I
dont think the o2 sensors could cause it 'cause it’s not even warm and in
the loop yet? Once while I was playing with it, something clicked like a
relay (?) and It would accelerate normally. But after starting it again it just
starves when the throttle is opened and dies soon after.
Many thanks in advance for considering my problem.
P.S. I saw an add in the paper yesterday for a '74 V12 engine for $300.
Add says “Rebuildable with no carbs or exhaust”. Know anybody that
needs one?
Thanks,
Jim Marsden
Orem Utah
JMARSDEN@Corel.Com
From: Matthew Banks raf71@dial.pipex.com
Date: Tue, 09 Jan 96 23:58:13 GMT
Subject: General Catchup
Hi all,
Just some general comments after catching up on the latest digests :
Suspension squeaks
I missed the original post on this but my XJS really used to drive
me up the wall with a squeak at low speeds from the rear suspension,
eventually cracked and had a look underneath, turned out to be the
mounts for the exhausts moving within the rubber bushes, a liberal
application of grease cured that one.
Rear end noises
When I first bought my XJ40 at 52,000 miles I thought the exhaust was
blowing slightly. When I had it serviced the service manager was very
reticent to let me drive the car away because they diagnosed the
noise as bearing wear in the rear axle. I had all the bearings in the
rear axle replaced (approx. 500 pound).
Kids and Jaguars
Congrats Paul on the new arrival - my second arrived 11 weeks ago and
to be honest the poor kid has not even been in the XJS - however, he
is lucky enough to have an XJ40 as an alternative. We used to use the
XJS fairly regularly when we just had our daughter (3 1/2 now) but
since the wife got big during pregnancy I don’t think my wife has
even been in the XJS. The XJ40 makes an excellent family car, I would
definitely be very careful about which colour interior I bought it
with though - the grey leather in ours seems to be unmarked even
after three years of our daughter - I’ve heard tales of magnolia
leather not combining very well with ribena (blackcurrant squash).
By the way - my daughter always asks to go out in ‘daddy’s car’
rather than the wife’s XJ40.
Trade in prices
This talk about trade ins reminds me of when we were looking to PX
our previous series III 4.2 Sov almost 4 years ago. We went to the
Jaguar dealer and were looking at a 1988 3.6 Sov to trade against.
Our SIII had 95,000 miles on the clock but was only 6 years old and
was in excellent condition - I really had spent the money looking
after it. We reckoned that as a trade in it should have been worth
about 5,000 pounds - we were literally speechless when the dealer
only offered 2,250. Basically we walked away in shock.
It all ended well because we sold it privately a week later for 5,200
pounds and went to Glasgow, where there is a much wider selection of
cars, with cash and bought the current 1990 4.0 Sov that we’ve got to
this day.
The problem is that the ‘trade’ even Jaguar dealers are terrified of
older Jaguars with high mileages. You can’t really blame them either,
how are they to know how well you’ve cossetted your Cat.
Bloody hell - this was only supposed to be a quick note - anyway have
a nice day everyone.
Cheers
Matthew Banks raf71@dial.pipex.com
1990 XJS 3.6 Computer Systems Engineer , Aberdeen, Scotland
1990 4.0 Sov * Damn, now I suppose I’ll HAVE to read the manual *
From: “Peter W. Karpien” 100306.3514@compuserve.com
Date: 27 Mar 96 19:05:16 EST
Subject: XJ6 Brakes - Follow up
Fellow Jag lovers,
So far I haven’t discovered much concerning the car pulling to the right when
braking. I have noticed that the pulling sensation has not been as strong at it
was when I first noticed it. It also seems to be inconsistent as far as which
side
it happens on.
I have been under the rear of the car to top up the diffy oil and noticed it
seems to
be leaking a little. Could diffy oil be getting on the rotors? Maybe.
Remembering back
to the first time I “really” noticed the problem I remember going through a
large puddle
(small pond I think) which was on the right side of the road. I was driving on
the “right”
side of the road. Anyway, right side rotors got wet causing car to pull? Seems
feasible. Also I don’t think my alingnment is very good thus causing the car to
pull
to different sides depending on the road surface.
So, I don’t think I have a serious brake problem. Just need a good alingment,
which
seems hard to find here in Albany NY. I had a local guy do it last year but
I didn’t notice a difference and don’t think he actually adjusted anything.
Probably
didn’t have a clue but wasn’t man enough to admit it. I don’t want to take it
to the dealer
either (inconvenient and exspensive) despite the fact they gave me a couple free
side marker light bulbs yesterday. I was astonded!
Speaking of the side marker lights. One was out and I thought the bulb was
blown.
Turns out the the connection to the socket and inside the socket were bad. I
destoyed
the old bulb getting it out and spent about an hour and half last night trying
to fix
the whole thing. The voltage reading was about 1.5 -2 V and there seemed to be
a short some where as I was getting continuity
between the negative in the socket and the common and the positive and the
common.
Well at about 11:30 I gave up and put the whole back together and screwed it
back on
the body. I then turned on the lights for kicks to see if by some miracle it
worked.
Well it did! Weird, of course I then went inside to find one of the displays on
my
stereo system to be blown I think I have a nasty case of the Gremlins! Does
anybody have any lotion or spray for that?
If I acquire anymore brake wisdom I’ll be sure to pass it on.
Peter
- -85 XJ6
From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 11:16:17 +1100 (EST)
Subject: Re: more beastly idly stuff
Hi Nick,
The quest for the perfect idle continues…
Working from the theory that the poor idle could be due
to vaccuum-leaks I today ventured into the nether regions
of the engine compartment in search of leaky bits. I have
discovered minimal amounts of information, and what I
have discovered I am unable to make sense of. Here goes:
…
There is a fairly thick rubber tube running from the brake
booster that ends up in the inlet manifold, roughly at the
mid-point between the two HD8’s. Now, I tried removing this
tube from the brake booster with a result that surprised me.The engine ran smoother, very much smoother. If I put my
finger over the end of the tube I can feel it sucking with
quite considerable force, and the engine immediately runs
like crap again.Now, does this tell me anything useful?
Looks like your engine is running over rich. The extra air bypassing the
carbs is leaning out the mixture. What condition are your spark plugs?
Do they show signs of running v. rich ie. black colouring?
regards,
Robert
Robert Dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 96 17:36:50 PST
Subject: re: sad xjs
I’ve just passed a sad xjs in an estate agent’s (realtor’s??) car park.
The car is a 3.6, only from 86/87, but has obviously been resting for a while.
the tyres are flat, so is much of the paintwork, and the bottom edges of most
body panels are showing signs of decay. The interior is shabby, especially the
back seats, which contain a newspaper from August 1994. The car shows 93k miles.Who would leave such a newish car to get in this state? At least who would
leave such a newish car to get in this state? At least store it or sell it.
What a waste!
I have seen many series III XJ6’s in used car lots that have lost most
if not all of their former glory: flat/cracked paintwork, ripped/dried out
leather, cracked wood…etc., etc., and I have vowed to never let my `91
VDP get that way. I always keep my car garaged both at home and at work,
try to minimize driving it during rainstorms, avoid parking it in direct
sunlight for long periods of time, and cover up the front seats with
lamb skin seat covers. The result? Despite being 5 years old, the metallic
paintwork still shines like new, the leather is perfect, and there’s no
blemish in the woodwork.
I think all it takes is some loving care when the car is fairly new.
Once it has deteriorated to a sad state, it will be very difficult and
expensive to re-new. A new-ish looking Jag is always a pleasure to own,
no matter what year or type.
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: turborat@atlcom.net
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 96 20:11:31 -0500
Subject: XJ-S A/C help
Hi all:
Seeking feedback from XJ-S owners regarding A/C repairs.
Now that spring is upon us and summer near by here in Atlanta, GA. it’s
time to have the A/C repaired on my '86 XJ-S. The A/C system appears to be
functioning OK except that one hose is leaking for sure and the other two
show signs of leaking as well. The system still has a little gas left but,
not much.
I am looking for a good source and price for the these hoses. Any feedback
would be appreciated. Are they Jag. specific? Can they be repaired
(leaking where rubber meets metal)? …
Thanks
Paul Konitshek
From: TPatton111@aol.com
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 20:52:41 -0500
Subject: misfiring?
I have a 1982 Jaguar XJ6. When I drive at speeds of 45-70 mph, there is
hesitations or misfiring and loss of power. I can clearly “feel” the
hesitations. It is less noticeable at lower speeds. I renewed the spark
plugs, but that didn’t help. About 4 months ago, I renewed the distributor
cab, rotor button, coil, and fuel filter. I have only drove about 5000 miles
since then so I wouldn’t think these items need replacing again. Could the
problem be in the fuel system, such as the fuel pressure regulator or fuel
pump? Would a clogged air filter cause this?
Please e-mail me directly.
Thanks,
Tim Patton
From: jamesc@oasis.novia.net (jc)
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 20:01:52 -0600 (CST)
Subject: motor from Cunningham/Momo shop
I am a new subscriber to the list but a long time jag guy.(ss100.xk120 spcl
racer,MK V DHC,MK VII, XK150S,2E’s) I recently purchased three crates of parts
that came from Briggs Cunningham and Alfred Momo’s shop in New York. They are
documented and were in an enthusiasts shop until age forced him to sell.
Please help me identify the following:
Brand New unnumbered block 3 1/2 Liter. There are no numbers stamped above the
oil filter but it does have #C15951 stamped on the side of the block approx
4 inches below the head. FF is cast below the numbers. It has 9:1 Brico flat
top pistons. The connecting rods,nuts,and crank have been balanced and polished
to a mirror finish and all have “Ok.Lab.C&E” hand etched into each.(very much
like Phillip Porters description of the Competition and Experimental engines
from the factory)
Straight Port head, new, unnumbered with #C12600 stamped on the underside and
WM7280 cast near it. It is ported, polished and has monster valve seats. I dont
know if this is a mate to the block
There is a lightened flywheel (new and competition clutch) with this. Appears
factory
There are tons of unusual Nos parts that came along that can be discussed later
but would value anyone’s opinion re: above
Jim Canedy
448 So 82nd St
Omaha, Ne 68114
1-402-397-3336
E mail: jamesc@oasis,novia.net
From: ILYAK@mdli.com
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 18:09:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: I did it wrong, I know - but how to get out?
I made a mistake that is hard to understand - but I did it.
My 85 XJS started having transmission problems and ina hurry I gave it to
a shop without checking references first.
As I reported to the group before, when the tranny was taken out, it looked
like a flexplate has some excessive wear and it wouldn’t hurt to replace it.-
Since new flexplate was not readily available, I purchased a used one from
a Jag used parts place - it was mailed directly to the shop and installed.
After taking car from the shop, I almost immediately realised that there is a
low tone vibration, coming from beneath that wasn’t there before the rebuild.
The very next day I took car back to the shop. The rebuilder told me that this
vibration is probably caused by a bad flexplate. I asked him to make a more
detailed diagnostics and if this is the case - to put the original flexplate
back. 10 days went since with very small progress - the rebuilder is not
responding promptly to my calls and when I manage to get a hold of him can’t
give me (read doesn’t want to) the status.
Question to the group. I’m relatively new in the US, are there any non-violent,
but effective measures that I could use to get the job done and done properly.
Thanks, Ilya.
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 21:19:43 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: S III diff
Folks, I’m much more comfortable replying to messages like this in
private email. I’m on this list as a hobby. But I’m also in the business
of Jag repair (and parts). It is getting harder to keep the two seperate.
The reason I mention this has to do with my net feed. I’'m not on the net. I
get a UUCP (don’t laugh) feed from a SCO unix box. The problem is that
SCO’s uucp (mmdf) insists on reorginizing the mail headers for me. It
erases everything, and puts in a “From jag-lovers-owner”. So, unless
there is an address in the body of the message, i have no way to reply
except through the public list.
Since this one verges on general information, I’ll post it to the list.
But, if you would like a private reply, please sign your posts.
============================================================================
Randy,
I am in the market for a rebuilt diff for an '83 XJ6. Can you give me =
an idea of cost both for the diff and including installation?
Also where are you located?Thanks,
Gavin Murphy=20
83 XJ6 VDP
Gavin,
The earlier posts were about the XJ40 differential. It’s an entirely
different beast than the Salisbury unit in Series III cars. The Salisbury
is a much stouter unit, a lot less prone to failure. So we do not stock
rebuilt units. We rebuild them on demand, using the unit in the car if
there is enough of it left.
I’m not too keen on posting price quotes on the net, especially vague
ones like this. This unit ( type 3 2.88 limited slip) could easily approach
$1000 to rebuild. Installation is typically (how are your u-joints? control
arm and hub bearings? brakes?) 8 hours, which in my shop would be $320.
I’m in Virginia Beach, Virginia (USA). All this is US prices, and assumes
a US spec VDP.
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 23:21:49 -0500
Subject: Re: ECU’s (XJ-S)
At 10:16 AM 3/27/96 -0500, Kirby Palm wrote:
Derivative question: Do all you folks without closed loop see different
performance or fuel mileage than those of us with closed loop?Yeah, right. Like there’s a lot of guys in this group that have driven
totally identical cars except for closed- vs. open-loop EFI.
And why not? There have been many threads about who gets what mileage, and
so on. I don’t recall anyone ever sorting these experiences by EFI mode.
You can make a general assumption though. Cars where emissions are
regulated got closed-loop systems. Cars where emissions are unregulated got
open-loop systems. If the closed-loop systems provided better performance
and/or mileage, wouldn’t everybody have gotten them?
No, because of the added costs to manufacture, train servicepeople and
service under warranty in geographies where it is otherwise not needed.
Dingli gave me some fuel/air mixture data indicating, essentially, that
closed-loop provides optimum emissions but not optimum fuel economy or
power. But, I’ll let him talk about that if he wants.
That agrees with my somewhat intuitive expectation. I would love to see the
actual information. Mr. Dingli, is this generally true or specific to the
way our Jags are calibrated?
Regards,
John
From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 1996 23:54:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Hunting for Idle (XJ-S)
At 10:16 AM 3/27/96 -0500, Kirby Palm wrote:
When it stopped, did it also stop
when in gear?Reminder: my car is a 5-speed manual.
Oops, forgot about that. Lucky guy.
Since my car is a manual, I have a problem the rest of you don’t: when in
closed-loop mode (test loop disconnected) and I drop the throttle to idle
and push in the clutch, the engine sometimes dies – and always comes close.
Why should that be? I have seen engines where depressing the clutch adds so
much end thrust that idle is affected, but I would not expect that on the
Jag V12. Come to think of it, though, I have seen this engine pick up 300
idle rpm just by disconnecting the air pump. Is this engine that sensitive?
What else would be causing this extra load? Does the engine move on its
mounts when you depress the clutch, and the throttle plates squeeze closed
ever so much?
As a side note, I am considering readjusting the throttle pot so that the
ECU never thinks the engine is at idle, and going back to closed-loop
operation. This might eliminate both the hunting and the engine dying
problems. Wish I understood the system well enough to know before trying.
A less intrusive and more easily reversible modification might be to add
another microswitch to the throttle ‘body’. It can switch you into open
loop at idle, and pop you into closed loop off idle. You can probably add
another microswitch ‘out of phase’ with the one that now provides enrichment
at wider throttle openings, using the same throttle cam to actuate the new
switch.
Note that, no matter what, the engine would not hunt with the EFI in
open-loop mode.That makes sense.
I’m glad it does. However, I seem to recall that you can get hunting with a
carburetted engine under certain conditions, so I’m not sure the cause is
that obvious.
It makes sense because we know that the Jag V12 can idle smoothly. You
are correct in noting that many engines, carburetted and otherwise, have
‘rolling’ idles. That doesn’t matter. Because the Jag can idle smoothly,
we can ignore rolling idles caused by cam timing, intake manifold runner
geometry, or whatever.
Clearly, what is happening is this: When in closed loop, the O2 sensors
‘see’ a mixture too rich or too lean. The ECU attempts to compensate, and
either goes a little too far or in the mean time the mixture has changed
again. More compensation. In a poorly designed or operating feedback
control system, the system will hunt cyclically forever. Liken it to the
early speed controls that would bracket the set speed: a little fast, a
little slow, a little fast, a little slow, ad nauseum. Another example:
consider a device intended to dim AC-powered incandescent lights by slowing
down the frequency of the delivered power. At some low frequency, the
average light delivered will be, say, half brightness – but there would be
an annoying level of flicker.
My contention is that the ‘clock speed’ (yes, I know I am using the wrong
metaphor) of the analog ECU is not fast enough to obtain a smooth idle
(where a small change in fuel delivery elicits a large response) or that
the components/design are just not up to the task. Same thing, really.
When in open loop, a fixed amount of fuel is being delivered with no
feedback adjustment. Ergo, smooth idle.
Do you expect that cw makes the mixture richer, and the ECU
trims back and forth trying to lean it out? If so, why? Why would it hunt
any more with it adjusted rich than with it adjusted lean?
I don’t know. Maybe the ECU can not behave ‘symmetrically’. It might have
limits it bumps into that prevent it from handling the conditions invoked by
the cw limit the same as those invoked by the ccw limit.
I don’t know much about the internals of this ECU. Sometimes I wish I did,
and other times I wish I had the time to retrofit a digital ECU from some
other car.
Regards,
John
From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 00:03:26 -0500
Subject: Need XJ-S Speedometer
My '82 XJ-S has a blasted 85 MPH speedometer – the result of early '80s US
regulatory excess.
I’d like to replace it with a unit with a proper scale.
Does anyone have an unneeded XJ-S speedometer? Even one that needs repair?
Regards,
John
From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 17:37:47 +1100 (EST)
Subject: Re: ECU’s (XJ-S)
Kirby and John Napoli have written,
Dingli gave me some fuel/air mixture data indicating, essentially, that
closed-loop provides optimum emissions but not optimum fuel economy or
power. But, I’ll let him talk about that if he wants.That agrees with my somewhat intuitive expectation. I would love to see the
actual information. Mr. Dingli, is this generally true or specific to the
way our Jags are calibrated?
Firstly - why do cars operate in closed loop and require unleaded fuel ?
Here’s a repost of something I sent to Kirby last week. It may be a bit
technical or even tedious to some so read on at your own risk…
The main advance in exhaust emissions reduction over the last twenty years
has been the catalytic converter. The catalytic converter requires near
stoichiometric air-fuel ratios (AFRs) to reduce oxides of nitrogen as well as
oxidize unburnt hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide. Closed loop control
achieves this. Stoichiometric operation is rarely ideal for performance,
efficiency or even pre cat exhaust emmissions. In fact, cars are generally
designed to operate in closed loop only during operation which is defined
in the EPA test drive cycle. For example, an Australian car may switch to
an open loop lean condition after x seconds at highway cruising speeds to
save fuel. Extended highway cruising is not part of the test drive cycle.
Closed loop control is based around EGO sensors which switch abruptly at
stoichiometric AFRs. They are useless elsewhere unless you want to pay
around $1000 each for a wide band Universal EGO (UEGO) which some Japanese
lean burn cars are using (notably some Hondas).
Unfortunately, cat converters are ‘poisoned’ by lead and some other chemicals.
Thus when cat converters became mandatory on new cars, unleaded fuel was also
made mandatory. Different countries and states require different maximum
lead content in there fuels. In Australia, half of the cars still run on
leaded fuel and while some (perhaps most) can actually run on unleaded, there
is a definite performance loss due to the lower octane. Leaded fuel also
kills EGO sensors. Note that the performance loss results from the need to
retard the ignition timing to aviod knock.
The toxicity of lead (and not to mention the lead replacements in unleaded
fuels such as formaldehydes and various aromatics including benzene) is
another issue.
Secondly - what are the benefits of open-loop control?
Open-loop control, per say, offers no advantages over closed-loop control.
It is just that sensor technology hasn’t progressed far enough to equip
every car with a wide range sensor allowing closed-loop control at AFRs
other than stoichiometric (~14.6:1). Thus to operate at any other AFR,
you must control the engine without exhaust sensor feedback in open-loop
mode. Controllers assume that the engine characteristic don’t change with
time which may or may not be valid.
Peak engine power is usually achieved slightly rich mixtures (12 - 13:1)
and drops off linearly after 14.6:1 as the fuel decreases. Peak efficiency
can be anywhere from 15:1 to 30:1 depending on the engine, ignition system,
fuel delivery system, rpm, load and fuel. Typically, efficiency will peak
around 16 - 18:1. AFRs just lean of stoichiometric produce the highest
combustion temperatures (and thus the highest NOx levels) and can be dangerous
at high loads. High fuel levels also have a secondary function of cooling the
combustion chamber at high loads.
For example, our Lancia Delta 16V research engine has the following peaks
(998 rpm 14.5"Hg MAP)
PARAMETER AFR
thermal efficiency 16.0
indicated torque (not brake torque) 13.5-14.5
HC (minimum) 17.5
CO (minimum) 15.5-21.5
Higher rpms and loads tend to have peak efficiency at higher AFRs.
My own '74 4.2 is tuned so that it runs slightly rich at idle for smooth
operation, rich at wide open throttle, very lean at 80-110km/h cruise
and near stoic for the rest of the map as a compromise between response
and efficiency.
If I have skipped anything, feel free to ask…
Sorry about the waffle.
regards,
Robert
Robert Dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **
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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 28 March 1996 Volume 02 : Number 018
From: John Stevenson john@apoint.demon.co.uk
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 09:42:45 -0000
Subject: Loads of little things
Hello other Jag people,
I’ve been reading the digest version of the list for 137 episodes now, =
I’ve learned a lot from the exercise, I’m afraid I don’t have the =
technical know-how to be able to contribute even though.
I have '90 XJS-V12, 50,000 miles. I’ve owned the car for 18 months, I’ve =
not had any problems with the car whatsoever apart from the seat heater =
pads, I’ve had these replaced by my local Jaguar dealer, the new ones =
are a little too hot to handle!
I have a few questions that I think the collective wisdom of the group =
may be able to answer.
Question 1: How should the seats be cared for? The seats are cream =
colours doe-hide? The drivers seat is starting to feel a little “crispy” =
though.
Question 2: For UK owners only, I think Jaguar offered a car-phone =
fitting service, does anybody know what type of phone this was? Was it =
the NEC 9a (or 10) phone wrapped in another case?
Question 3: Does anybody know where I could buy those sheep skin covers =
for the seats? Not actual seat covers but the things that look like a =
sheep has laid on a the fur and somebody has cut around the outline of =
the sheep.
Question 4: How fast should this car actually go? What (in theory) is =
the top-speed of an unmodified XJS-V12 sold in the UK?
From: wzehring@cmb.biosci.wayne.edu (Will Zehring)
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 08:24:59 -0500
Subject: Mini-lites on an E-type
Fellow jag-o-philes:
Here’s a question from Planet Zon: has anyone out there converted their
e-type from wires to minilites? Is it possible to do this? I mean, are
there hub kits available and if so, what the heck do they cost? Surely some
race shop offers these items?
I am NOT contemplating doing this, but the thought entered my mind (I
actually think it would look very nice, and is of course reversible so
purists needn’t cringe). I just thought I’d ask…
Will Zehring
From: Peter Morris pmorris@tfb.com
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 06:32:47 +0000
Subject: Re: Hello
On 27 Mar 96 at 13:35, Eric Henning wrote:
Originally the XJ-S was my favorite production car in the whole
world, but now as I’ve grown older, had children (still have have’em
too
XJ6 SIII.
A wise choice ('course I’m somewhat biased!).
I believe it is time to cast aside the Fiat Spider (1980,
48k miles really clean) a jump into an XJ6.
Well, if you must; certainly since I acquired my XJ6 SIII in August,
my '78 Spider has been driven very little. On the other hand, the
weather has encouraged driving the sedan. I doubt I could ever ‘cast
aside’ my Spider (except, perhaps for an XJS!).
Welcome to the list!
Regards,
Peter Morris
From: Neil Richardson NEILRICH@polisci.wisc.edu
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 96 08:27 CDT
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #16
I’m about to replace the radiator on my SI E-Type (OTS); quite tired of summer
overheating in the USA heartland (Wisconsin)! I plan to re-install the
“pancake” aftermarket fan (14") that I added (swapped out the pathetic factory
2-blade) when I purchased the car in 1988 (it’s a 4.2L from '66, by the way).
I’m seeking recommendations about radiator specifications, brands, etc.
available in the states. Any thoughts/experiences (including unhappy
experiences) would be welcome.
Neil Richardson
Madison, WI, USA
'66 E-Type (OTS)
'86 XJ6
From: “L. W. (Bill) Clark” lwc@fforsm.com
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 07:38:19 -0800
Subject: Re: Any Experience With Crane’s Electronic Ignition Retrofit?
I put one (Allison) in my V12 E-type and it’s fine as long as I keep below
5000 rpm.
Over that, the engine runs roughly and loses power - as measured on the
dynamometer
L. W. (Bill) Clark
(415) 919-4061 Office
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 11:15:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Hunting for Idle (XJ-S)
when in
closed-loop mode (test loop disconnected) and I drop the throttle to idle
and push in the clutch, the engine sometimes dies – and always comes close.Why should that be? I have seen engines where depressing the clutch adds so
much end thrust that idle is affected, but I would not expect that on the
Jag V12. Come to think of it, though, I have seen this engine pick up 300
idle rpm just by disconnecting the air pump. Is this engine that sensitive?
What else would be causing this extra load?
It’s not a load thing, it’s an EFI thing. I have found that, with the hood
up and the engine in closed-loop mode, I can turn the bellcrank enough to
give me about 2500 RPM for a few seconds, and when I let go the engine
nearly stops.
Of course, this should be testable on you guys’ cars with GM400’s. Pull the
test loop in the boot, then try the same thing while idling in Park.
On some EFI systems – I dunno about this one – there is a feature that turns the fuel OFF when throttle is at idle and engine speed is above a certain RPM. Uses no fuel at all when coasting downhill, therefore causes no pollution and saves fuel. They bring the fuel back on as the RPM drops below a certain mark so the engine can begin idling normally. Maybe this EFI system has such a feature, and isn’t bringing that fuel on quite soon enough. As a side note, I am considering readjusting the throttle pot so that the ECU never thinks the engine is at idle A less intrusive and more easily reversible modification might be to add another microswitch to the throttle ‘body’. Have considered that as well. It’s certainly not “less intrusive and more easily reversible” though, since it requires me building a mount, while the throttle pot adjustment is easy to do and easy to undo. Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | – Palm’s Postulate From: LLoyd 3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@cmsa.berkeley.edu Date: Thu, 28 Mar 96 08:35:45 PST Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #16 Neil, Concerning radiator repair/replacement. There are a couple of options. You can have it boiled out, cheapest option. Or buy a new one, most expensive option. Or, you can have a new core put in by a radiator shop. Get some extimates before you have something done. LLoyd From: “Jim Cantrell” JIMC@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 09:36:45 MDT Subject: Re: 85 XJS won’t run above idle Jim, I also live in Utah and I also saw the same ad for the V12. I have been thinking about buying it as it is a pre-HE. As far as your XJS, I had a similar problem with my XJ12C. It would idle fine but fall flat on its face at about 1500 RPM. I put a fuel pressure gauge in line and saw that the fuel pressure would fall off at exactly the same moment. Upon further investigation, there were multiple restrictricions in the gas tank pick-up and the system was fuel starved. Cleaned it up and it runs great. My advice is to go down to the welding shop and buy a pressure gauge (0-50 psi) and put this in place of the fuel filter. It will at least tell you that the fuel system is ok. By the way, I blew compressed air through the lines too, and was convinced that all was OK but the suction on the pickup was causing the problem. Good luck, Jim Cantrell XJ12C XJ6C From: “Jim Cantrell” JIMC@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 09:46:31 MDT Subject: Jag fuel pump - you’ll never guess! Hello all, I thought that I would share with you a very interesting piece of information that I discovered last night while working on my newly acquired XJ6C. I pulled the fuel pumps from the tanks (the mid 70-ish in tank pumps that are on many XJ6’s with carbs) and discovered that they were more or less trashed. I put them in an ultrasonic cleaner to see if they could be salvaged at all. When I disassembled the pump from the mounting brackets, it looked very familiar to me. As I looked at it some more, I realized that this jag pump was similar to that used in the 70’s Chevrolet Vega. In fact, I went over to my shelf and found a spare one that I had from a bracket racer that I had built a few years ago and guess what - they are exactly the same pump - down to the AC Delco numbers. So instead of buyinh the 120$ replacements through jag parts dealers, you can merely go down to your favorite auto parts store and buy a new one from a Vega for 20$. I just love it when I discover this kind of thing ! So, those with XJ6’s with in-tank pumps, note this low cost replacement ! Regards, Jim Cantrell 76 XJ12C 76 XJ6C From: LLoyd 3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@cmsa.berkeley.edu Date: Thu, 28 Mar 96 08:38:33 PST Subject: 4.2 front seal Now it’s my turn to ask a question. I have a '71 series II “E” with the 4.2 liter engine and it appears to be leaking from the front seal. (Why are you not surprised?) I’ve got the bonnet off and it is up on blocks in the garage, so now is the time to fix it. How do I procede? Besides the big center bolt (nut?), there are three or four small bolts in- side the pulley. Do I remove them first? Do I need a gear puller to pull teh pulley? How do I get the old seal out? Is there a better after market seal to replace the old one? What else will surprise me? LLoyd -the '71 “E” cut in half is welded together!- From: LLoyd 3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@cmsa.berkeley.edu Date: Thu, 28 Mar 96 08:48:34 PST Subject: [none] My goodness!! We’ve got at least two FIAT spyder owners on the Jag list. I had a '71 124 Coupe, one of the best cars I ever owned. Drove it for about 15 years as a daily driver. I’ve never had a car with mor structural integrity or a better drive train; but the body rusted away. Guess they were not built to last. LLoyd -what am I saying? I had to cut me “E” in half!- From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 13:01:01 -0500 Subject: Re: Any Experience With Crane’s Electronic Ignition Retrofit? I put one (Allison) in my V12 E-type and it’s fine as long as I keep below 5000 rpm. Over that, the engine runs roughly and loses power - as measured on the dynamometer For this reason alone, I woulda returned the item! This performance is totally unacceptable. If we’re talking about the V12, how hard would it be to retrofit the XJ-S electronic ignition to it? Only problem I can see is getting the centrifugal/vacuum advance curves right, since the only acceptable stock system is the one on the HE, and the curves for the HE are totally different than those on the non-HE. Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | – Palm’s Postulate From: “Michael P. Neal1” mneal@wco.com Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 10:11:20 -0800 Subject: Re: Fiat Actually make that 3. I have an '80 Spyder, fuel injected. It is rough and is for sale. LLoyd wrote:
My goodness!! We’ve got at least two FIAT spyder owners on the Jag list.
I had a '71 124 Coupe, one of the best cars I ever owned. Drove it for about
15 years as a daily driver. I’ve never had a car with mor structural integrity
or a better drive train; but the body rusted away. Guess they were not built
to last.LLoyd -what am I saying? I had to cut me “E” in half!-
From: ASOMELECT@aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 13:21:04 -0500
Subject: RE: ECU’S
THE ECU UNIT THAT YOU HAVE IS A LUCAS REBUILT UNIT. THE LUCAS BOOKS INDICATE
THAT THE PROPER REBUILT NUMBER FOR THAT CAR IS LRZ119A. IF YOURS DOES NOT
WORK WE ARE A LUCAS DEALER AND GIVE DISCOUNTS TO ANY LIST MEMBERS. IF YOU
NEED MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CALL US AT 1800-424-2766. MARI. C.
From: spe00@eng.amdahl.com (Silas Elash)
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 96 10:22:33 PST
Subject: Re: misfiring?
Tim wrote:
I have a 1982 Jaguar XJ6. When I drive at speeds of 45-70 mph, there is
hesitations or misfiring and loss of power. I can clearly “feel” the
hesitations. It is less noticeable at lower speeds. I renewed the spark
plugs, but that didn’t help. About 4 months ago, I renewed the distributor
cab, rotor button, coil, and fuel filter. I have only drove about 5000 miles
since then so I wouldn’t think these items need replacing again. Could the
problem be in the fuel system, such as the fuel pressure regulator or fuel
pump? Would a clogged air filter cause this?
I had a similar problem on my 84 XJ6, and although there are many
possible causes of your problem, this is what my cars problem was.
There is a temp sensor that is read by the ECU. In my car the thermostat
was stuck open and I did not notice this as a problem because the
car warmed up enough to get the heater going and the thing ran cool!
(great for a jag, right?) Well, your jag can run too cool. The computer
would keep dumping gas into the engine and I would get terrible
flat spots/ bogging / hesitation upon accelerating. Simply note
how cooooool your cat is running and this will give you a clue
to figuring out if you have this problem. Sometimes those computers
make things hard to diagnose, we always want to change plugs etc,
but the computer is reading a sensor wrong and we can’t get around that.
My fix was simple, and the car does not hesitate now.
Silas
84 XJ6
62 MK2
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 12:30:44 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: more beastly idly stuff
On Thu, 28 Mar 1996, robert dingli wrote:
There is a fairly thick rubber tube running from the brake
booster that ends up in the inlet manifold, roughly at the
mid-point between the two HD8’s. Now, I tried removing this
tube from the brake booster with a result that surprised me.The engine ran smoother, very much smoother. If I put my
finger over the end of the tube I can feel it sucking with
quite considerable force, and the engine immediately runs
like crap again.Now, does this tell me anything useful?
Looks like your engine is running over rich. The extra air bypassing the
carbs is leaning out the mixture. What condition are your spark plugs?
Do they show signs of running v. rich ie. black colouring?
I have to agree. This is why I suggested that you check the
mixture–somebody else also mentioned carb balance–in my first response
to your query. It’s easy to get SU carbs too rich. The baseline settings
mentioned in the manuals are, in my experience, all much too rich. A
too-rich engine will run just as poorly as a too-lean one, but they don’t
overheat.
Larry Lee
From: Zoran Mitrovic 100136.3714@compuserve.com
Date: 28 Mar 96 13:31:32 EST
Subject: XJ6 SIII auto-trans reparation
Dear friends
Some may remember my plight for help about repairing my auto gearbox in my XJ6
SIII 85. I got some addresses in England an Holland. I contacted those garages,
and now my adventure begins. I will try to drive my wounded beast from
Switzerland to England, precisely to Vicarage in Wolverhampton!
Beside the replacement of my gearbox I will let do some minor works. (Tyres,
brake pads…)
I pray my beast will hold it out, I hope the tunnel will have no leak, and I
wish I’ll be able to drive on the wrong side of the road.
I’ll be leaving sunday…
Fare well my friends Zoran MItrovic
From: erict@cta.com (Eric Thorstenson)
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 96 14:38:08 EST
Subject: Fiat Foursome
Make it four. Had a '79 Spyder 2000.
Eric T. '73 XJ6 SI
erict@ra.cta.com
From: Curt Onstott onstottc@ucs.orst.edu
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 12:08:41 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Searching for XJS’s
I’ve been thinking about buying an XJS for a while now. I have a couple
of questions. First, what is a reasonable price to pay for one with an
HE V12? I’d really like a convertible, but it looks like they are
slightly out of my budget. I’d really like to find a good solid car in
the $7-8,000 range.
What years would I be best off looking at? What is a good way to find
one? Anybody know of someone that has an extra one they want to get rid of?
Curt Onstott | Phone: 737-1483
Consultant, Information Services | Email: onstottc@ucs.orst.edu
Oregon State University | Office: MCC 150
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 16:08:44 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Fiat
Actually make that 3. I have an '80 Spyder, fuel injected. It is rough and is for sale.
LLoyd wrote:
My goodness!! We’ve got at least two FIAT spyder owners on the Jag list.
Geee, guess it’s time to admit to my daily cars. I’ve never cared much for
the driving position of the Spyders. I much prefer the Lancia Beta’s (81
coupe and a 79 Zagato). Oh, and a 79 X1/9 traffic fighter / autocrosser.
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
From: “J.W. Beckmeyer” 73131.3076@compuserve.com
Date: 28 Mar 96 16:10:06 EST
Subject: Re: XJ40 Differential Noise (Was more XJ40 new owner questions)
Randy Wilson wrote:
Sometimes it is hard to tell,Jag’s sound deadning being as good
as it is. If the noise varies both with speed, and engine load,
it is most likely the diff. If it is constant, no matter the
engine load, it may still be the diff. You can try having some
one else drive the car while you are in the back seat. Or, if
you have the proper equipment to do this safely, have someone
“drive” the car while the rear wheels are in the air. Crawl
underneath and listen to the diff and hubs with a stethoscope.
I obviously can not recommend this procedure… especially if
all that is available are jackstands. I do this with the car on
a lift and stands. This technic does not always work, as
there is no load on the system.
Randy,
Just had the car out on the road. The noise varies w/ road speed (change in
pitch) but not w/ load. I have access to a proper lift so (perhaps this weekend)
I’ll raise the car and try the suggestion you (and some other helpful
jag–lovers on the list) made. Perhaps this will settle it. And yes, I’ll be
VERY careful.
One suggestion that was sent to me privately was to just buy new tires and see
what happens. Frankly, I have been intending to do this sometime this spring
after the car was out of winter storage as I was convinced all along that it was
tire noise. Well, we’ll see about that.
Randy and all, thanks for the help and suggestions. Much appreciated.
BTW, I hope that you and Michael Neal don’t feel that the “free” advice you give
me is taking business away from a hard working jag tech in town. There is no
jag tech in this town or, for that matter, this county or in any direction <75
miles.
Again, thanks!
nrn
Best regards,
Jim Beckmeyer Union CIty, MI USA
e-mail: 73131.3076@compuserve.com
90 Jaguar XJ-40-Sovereign
60 Jaguar MK II
From: John McDonagh mcdonagj@tui.lincoln.ac.nz
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 09:10:27 +1200
Subject: Re: Mini-lites on an E-type
These are made here in New Zealand and I believe exported to the USA
and other places. I think the agent in the USA is British Wire Wheel
(perhaps they should change their name to New Zealand Alloy Wheel!)
The last price I heard of was NZ$400 per wheel complete about
US$260. I think the splined hub itself is about NZ$180.
John McDonagh
Department of Accounting Finance and Property Studies
Lincoln University
Christchurch
New Zealand
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 1996 16:08:44 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Fiat
Actually make that 3. I have an '80 Spyder, fuel injected. It is rough and is for sale.
LLoyd wrote:
My goodness!! We’ve got at least two FIAT spyder owners on the Jag list.
Geee, guess it’s time to admit to my daily cars. I’ve never cared much for
the driving position of the Spyders. I much prefer the Lancia Beta’s (81
coupe and a 79 Zagato). Oh, and a 79 X1/9 traffic fighter / autocrosser.
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
From: “Alan Johnston” alan_johnston@ed22qm.msfc.nasa.gov
Date: 28 Mar 1996 15:46:31 -0600
Subject: FWD>Fiat Fivesome?
Mail*Link� SMTP FWD>Fiat Fivesome?
OK, if we’re counting, I had a FIAT 124 Special in my college days.
- thanks DAD *
Alan
Alan_Johnston@ed22qm.msfc.nasa.gov
Make it four. Had a '79 Spyder 2000.
Eric T. '73 XJ6 SI
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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 29 March 1996 Volume 02 : Number 020
From: wzehring@cmb.biosci.wayne.edu (Will Zehring)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 09:38:26 -0500
Subject: British Wire Wheel
Fellow fiends:
I am looking for a contact telephone number for a company called “British
Wire Wheel.” It is my understanding that they are the US distributors for
Minilites and/or Minilite replicas. If anyone has info on this company or
helpful information on any contact I can make in the US for Minilite wheels,
I would greatly appreciate it.
Cheers, and have an awesome weekend,
Will Zehring
From: alindsay@fit.edu (ALEX H. LINDSAY)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 08:45:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Off this Mailing list
I WANT OFF THIS FUCKING MAILING LIST
Ahhhhh! True class rears its ugly head once again.
Alex H. Lindsay
From: Craig Tiano ctiano@voicenet.com
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 08:44:46 -0500
Subject: Returned mail: User unknown
At 04:08 PM 3/28/96 -0500, you wrote:
Actually make that 3. I have an '80 Spyder, fuel injected. It is rough
and is for sale.LLoyd wrote:
My goodness!! We’ve got at least two FIAT spyder owners on the Jag list.
Geee, guess it’s time to admit to my daily cars. I’ve never cared much for
the driving position of the Spyders. I much prefer the Lancia Beta’s (81
coupe and a 79 Zagato). Oh, and a 79 X1/9 traffic fighter / autocrosser.
I think I’m #6 here with a Spyder. I’ve had 1800’s and 2000’s. I’ve
also owned FIVE X1/9’s, ranging from an original early production 1974 to a
“broke my heart to sell it, but couldn’t drive it due to a knee injury” 1980
which had an average of 600 miles on it per year when I sold it in 1994. I
also had a Lancia Scorpion (Monte Carlo elsewhere in the world), '79 and '82
Lancia Zagatos. My wife like the '82 Zagato the best. I have to say that the
Scorpion was one of the nicest drivers. It certainly got a lot of looks
until Pontiac introduced the Fiero and made that look common.
Craig Tiano
Photography, Antique Cars (60’s Lincolns, 30’s Packards,
70 and 79 Daimler DS420s), American Eskimo Dogs,
HTML/CGI/Datacomm guru
- ---- Mail ---- ctiano@voicenet.com
- – Homepage – http://www.voicenet.com/~ctiano/index.html
==========================================================
Craig Tiano
Photography, Antique Cars (60’s Lincolns, 30’s Packards,
70 and 79 Daimler DS420s), American Eskimo Dogs,
HTML/CGI/Datacomm guru
- ---- Mail ---- ctiano@voicenet.com
- – Homepage – http://www.voicenet.com/~ctiano/index.html
==========================================================
From: Craig Tiano ctiano@voicenet.com
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 08:38:35 -0500
Subject: Re: More on XJ6C body numbers
To add amusement to confusion, the number stamped into the body is the VIN;
the body number only appears on the pop-riveted aluminium ID plate.
Unless it
has cleverly been stamped into the underside somewhere and covered with
undersealer…
On my '79, I have the alluminum plate. Underneath the car, cleverly
concealed in undercoating and grease deposited by the engine marking it’s
territory is another copy of the same id number stamped to the frame.
On my '70, the number is stamped into the metal of the body structural
member that goes across the front of the car over the radiator. When I
bought the car, it had no US title. I applied for a title in Mississippi,
which doesn’t have a need to see a previous US title for vehicles older than
10 years. Of course, I hunted for nearly 2 hours for the number before I
found it by accident (closing the hood, I happened to look down and there it
was). When I transferred the title from Mississippi to Pennsylvania, PA’s
DOT required me to provide a tracing of the number, since they had never
heard of a VIN number only 6 digits long for a 1970 vehicle.
Craig Tiano
Photography, Antique Cars (60’s Lincolns, 30’s Packards,
70 and 79 Daimler DS420s), American Eskimo Dogs,
HTML/CGI/Datacomm guru
- ---- Mail ---- ctiano@voicenet.com
- – Homepage – http://www.voicenet.com/~ctiano/index.html
==========================================================
From: “Doug Mitchell” dmitchel@ford.com
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 10:09:21 -0500
Subject: Re: British Wire Wheel
Will,
From the Monster List:
British Wire Wheel
Bruce Erfer
1600 Mansfield Street
Santa Cruz, CA 95062
(408) 479-4995
The place to have your wire wheels rebuilt or to get new ones. - Chris Kent
Kantarjiev cak@parc.xerox.com
Doug Mitchell
From: “L. W. (Bill) Clark” lwc@fforsm.com
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 07:27:54 -0800
Subject: Re: Mini Lites on E-type
Yes, Bruce Erfer of British Wire Wheels in Santa Cruz California (408)
479-4495, has them, but I don’t know the price.
By the way Bruce also has an excellent selection of wires and tires, and is
very helpful even if you don’t buy anything.
L. W. (Bill) Clark
1965 MkII
1973 V12 E-type
From: “L. W. (Bill) Clark” lwc@fforsm.com
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 07:42:02 -0800
Subject: Re: Any Experience With Crane’s Electronic Ignition Retrofit?
Kirby…
Thanks for the thought, the Allison was one I had lying round and was a
quick fix after the Lucas became a random number generator and blew the
exhaust pipes off with a helluva bang at circa 70 mph.
At a British Swap meet someone else mentioned that they had problems over
5000 rpm also, and at present it’s probably a good max speed regulator for me.
I had wondered about retrofitting an HE engine complete in the E-type, as
perhaps a quicker and cheaper fix than a complete rebuild which I could then
do at my leisure (over then next ten years?). Haven’t checked the
feasability yet though.
L. W. (Bill) Clark
1965 MkII
1973 V12 E-type
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 10:14:39 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Texas Jaguar Club Spring Fling
On Fri, 29 Mar 1996, Charles Rahm wrote:
Dear All,
Tomorrow, Cindy and I head out from Dallas on a 212 mile journey to
Brenham, Texas. We will take the '71XJ. We’re going to hook up with
two other couples and caravan down to Brenham. In our group will be
a series 1.5 XKE convertible, a series I and III XJ6.
Every year the Jaguar clubs of Texas gather somewhere in Texas. This
year in Brenham. Brenham is in Washington County, the birthplace of
Texas. Brenham is also where Blue Bell Ice Cream is made (more
important, I think…). All together, there should be around 60 - 75
people and maybe 30 - 40 cars. A representative from Pennzoil will
be the guest speaker on Saturday night.
We depart at 9:00 a.m. I’ll let you know of any interesting stories
when we return.
Jags Away!
From a former Dallas, Texan, I’m jealous. It sounds like a jolly old time.
Blue Bell in the body IS a great thing (have some for me), but Pennzoil
in the Jag…no thanks!
In case you have a liking for things mechanical other than Jags, there
is a marvelous old cotton gin (ca 1914) just a few miles west in
Burton. It’s a historic mechanical engineering landmark and well worth
the trip!
Larry Lee
From: kboetzer@auspex.com (Ken Boetzer)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 08:27:30 -0800
Subject: Re: British Wire Wheel
Fellow fiends:
I am looking for a contact telephone number for a company called “British
Wire Wheel.” It is my understanding that they are the US distributors for
Minilites and/or Minilite replicas. If anyone has info on this company or
helpful information on any contact I can make in the US for Minilite wheels,
I would greatly appreciate it.Cheers, and have an awesome weekend,
Will Zehring
Will,
BWW is located in Santa Cruz CA. The home of surfing on the west coast.
TAKE THAT, YOU SO CAL GUYS!!!
Phone number is (408) 479-4495.
address 1650 Mansfield
Santa Cruz, CA. 95062
I must add here over the years of dealing with them I can recomend them
100%. I had a problem with a tube on some wheels that I bought from them
and they replaced all the tubes and rebalanced the assemblies NO CHARGE!
It wasn’t even clear that the problem was theirs, and I told them that when
I took the car into them but it was almost like they brushed me aside and
just fixed everything they could. Quite the opposite of some automechanical
type experiences that I have had.
Enjoy,
Ken Boetzer
From: Roland Dudley cobra@cdc.hp.com
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 96 8:29:39 PST
Subject: Re: British Wire Wheel
I am looking for a contact telephone number for a company called “British
Wire Wheel.” It is my understanding that they are the US distributors for
Will Zehring
800-wire-wheel
BTW, they did a super job on my wire wheels.
Roland
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 12:00:51 -0500
Subject: Re:
I
remembered that I had just recently read on this list that this would
happen if fuel line was used for the flexible hose connecting the
resevoir to the master cylinder. Sure enough, the Jag shop that I had
entrusted with changing all the belts and hoses had used fuel line!I have since replaced the offending hoses with flexible brake line
(same hose I use on Lockheed remote rear cylinders on '75 Triumph
Trident), flushed the system with fresh DOT 3 fluid and bled the
brakes. Pedal is back to normal, lesson learned.Many thanks to Kirbert and others on this list for the information.
You’re welcome.
BTW, it appears that the hose I was sold from an industrial supply joint is
normal 1/4" “air hose”, available at Home Depot and probably other similar
stores. It is red on the outside but has a black liner.
If this is in fact the same stuff, it has functioned perfectly as reservoir
hose on my car for a couple years now, and my fluid remains nice and clear.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Jay Laifman JLAIFMAN@pnm.mhs.compuserve.com
Date: 29 Mar 96 11:26:28 EST
Subject: RE: British Wire Wheel
(800) Wire Wheel! and (408) 479-4495
1650 Mansfield Street
Santa Cruz, California 95062
Jay Laifman
Pircher, Nichols & Meeks
1999 Avenue of the Stars
Los Angeles, California 90067
(310) 201-8915
From: LLoyd 3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@cmsa.berkeley.edu
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 96 09:37:33 PST
Subject: Re: lesson learned
Robert,
A sad story indeed. But all to realistic. You have inspired a new signatrue
block…
LLoyd -Never let an experienced mechanic blotch a job you could
blotch yourself for a third the cost.-
From: densmith@islandnet.com (Dennis Smith)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 96 10:12 PST
Subject: Parts for 1954 XK120
A fellow Jag enthusiast located in Vancouver, British Columbia(who is
not on the net)is nearing completion of a meticulous restoration of a
1954 XK120.
He needs the following:
Radio mounting brackets for a Smith radio (Radiomobile Model
4102)
Original NA8 spark plugs with black body needs one of UK
manufacture or one of Canadian manufacture. (Of course if anyone
has a complete set of these original plugs for sale that would
be ideal).
This restoration has been ongoing for 16 years and the owner (Godfrey
Miller) is hoping to complete it in time for the All British Field Meet
at Van Dusen Gardens in Vancouver on May 18th.
Godfrey’s phone number is (604)266-9648
Dennis Smith
� OLX 2.2 � Jaguar - The World’s most elegant car
From: LLoyd 3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@cmsa.berkeley.edu
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 96 10:25:11 PST
Subject: Re: British Wire Wheel
Will,
British Wire Wheel is just up the road from me about 50 miles. Phone no. is
(408) 479-4495 Jaguar minilites are US $325. and come in 15X6 inch size
only, according to a brochure I have. They replace the wire wheels. Wheels
do not require tubes, hmmmmm, interesting. Also for direct-bolt wheels. Not
bad looking, looks like 8 big spokes about 2 inches in diameter each.
LLoyd
From: Curt Onstott onstottc@ucs.orst.edu
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 11:00:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: 4.2 Engine ques…
I’ve got a couple of questions as I am rebuilding my 76 XJ6’s engine.
- The main bearing cap nuts are supposed to have lock tabs. I checked a
few parts sources and they don’t carry them. Should I:
A)Order a new set. (Where?)
B)Leave them out.
C)Replace them with lock washers
2)Should I be using lock washers on the rod big-end cap nuts?
3)What is the secret to getting the rear oil seal installed? It seems
like there is an extra two inches of gasket(That I managed to jam into
place with a screw driver.)
4)Valve guide seals: Needed or not?
5)What is the best way to adjust the valves?
Curt Onstott | Phone: 737-1483
Consultant, Information Services | Email: onstottc@ucs.orst.edu
Oregon State University | Office: MCC 150
From: “White, Dick” white@msgate.columbiasc.ATTGIS.COM
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 96 13:59:00 edt
Subject: Jag Suppliers
From an old list I have:
British Wire Wheel, 1650 Mansfield St, 1-408-479-4495
Santa Cruz, CA 95062
Dayton and Dunlop wire wheels, tires
Below I have appended a list which was floating around some time ago. I
hope you find it useful.
Dick White
'64 3.8 S-Type
'58 XK 150 FHC
From: wzehring
To: jag-lovers
Cc: mgs; british-cars
Subject: British Wire Wheel
Date: Friday, March 29, 1996 9:38AMFellow fiends:
I am looking for a contact telephone number for a company called “British
Wire Wheel.” It is my understanding that they are the US distributors for
Minilites and/or Minilite replicas. If anyone has info on this company or
helpful information on any contact I can make in the US for Minilite
wheels,
I would greatly appreciate it.Cheers, and have an awesome weekend,
Will Zehring
SUPPLIERS OF JAGUAR PARTS AND SERVICES Rev. 3-27-95
A D Motor Rebuilding, NY 1-516-395-5101
Lucas, Smith’s motors rebuilt
Al Hogan’s Autojumble Mansfield, Ohio 1-419-524-1088
NOS parts supplier
Specializes in buying out old dealer stock. Owner (Al) is knowledgeable
about british car parts.
-Steve DuChene s0017210@cc.ysu.edu
Dick Ames, 608 Ft. Williams Pkwy, Alexandria, VA 22304 1-703-370-3097
stainless exhaust systems
Best price on stainless steel exhaust systems. I’ve misplaced the
address but can probably look it up if pressed.
-PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)
Ancient Car Parts, 64 N Main, Lyndonville, NY 14098 1-716-765-2894
rust repair panels for XJ
Apple Hydraulics, 715 Route 25A, Miller Place, NY 11764 1-800-882-7753
rebuilds Armstrong, Girling shocks, SU carbs 1-516-744-9627
Atlantic Enterprises, Route 4, Box 394-B, Loris, SC 29569 1-803-756-7565
steering racks, seal kits, polyurethane rack mounts
Auto Interiors of Europe, 1790 E McFadden, Unit 107 1-800-533-2886
interiors Santa Ana, CA 92705
(not sure which addr. is correct)
3023 S. Orange Ave.
Santa Ana, CA 92707
(714) 751-9046
Nice stuff if I remember correctly. Not cheap but nothing for these
beasts is.
- s912!rick@bnf.com (Rick Ezneker)
Kent Bain, 1785 Barnum Ave, Stratford, CT 06497 1-203-377-6745
custom interiors, seat rebuilding and repadding
G.W.Bartlett, Muncie, Ind. 1-800-338-8034
interior and trim parts
Sells original Jaguar Interior kits and components. All to exact Jaguar
specifications. As per original spec. Quite costly but isn’t quality
always a bit more? (eg. Interior kit for Jag 3.8s is about $4200, retail.)
- zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay)
Basset’s, Wyoming, R.I. 1-401-539-3010
restoration parts
Borla Industries, Oxnard, Calif. 1-805-983-7300
stainless exhaust
Bowling, Larry MO 1-314-888-1741
used parts
British Auto Center, 2938 SW Avalon Way, Seattle, WA 98126 206-935-0873
Lots of late model stuff, new and used. Very knowledgeable. Can
sometimes be grumpy. – Greg Meboe (meboe@wsunix.wsu.edu)
British Auto Interiors, 92 Londonderry Trnpk, 1-603-622-1050
interior and trim parts Manchester, NH 03104
British Auto USA Manchester, NH 1-800-452-4787
1-800-4-JAGPTS
Exc. inventory of interiors and body parts. Limited inventory of
mechanical parts but I always check them out because they’re cheaper!
(I avoid Bartlets for Jag interiors)
-PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)
British Car Parts, CA 1-818-788-7636
new and used parts
British Marque Auto PO Box 344, Bainbridge, PA 17502 1-717-426-2675
interiors
British Motor Service, 521 W. Katella, Orange, CA 92667 1-714-997-3800
Moss distributor, used XK parts
British Parts Northwest, 4105 SE Lafayette Hwy, 1-503-864-2001
new parts for late models, no sheet metal Dayton, OR 97114
British Restoration Parts, Kansas City, Mo. 1-800-821-3767
new restoration parts
British Spares, 46 Florence, Springfield, MA 01105 1-413-736-0463
fabricates panels for XK, Marks, E
British Vintages, 645-D Tank Farm Rd, 1-800-350-JAGS
San Luis Obispo, CA 93401 1-805-541-5986
Have their catalog but so far never used them.
-PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)
British Wire Wheel, 1650 Mansfield St, 1-408-479-4495
Santa Cruz, CA 95062
Dayton and Dunlop wire wheels, tires
THE place to go for correct reconditioning of your JagWires. Also to
buy THE correct tires.
-PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)
Bob Brosen, 7804 Billington Court, Oxen Hill, MD 20744 1-301-248-6327
new repro parts for pre-war, Mark IV, V
Classic Parts & Panels, Ltd. 0296 658938
Fleet Marston Farm, Bicester Rd., Nr Waddesdon
Aylesbury, Bucks, UK HD 18 ODZ XK panels
Classic Restoration Parts, Bellflower, Ca. 1-213-804-2756
XK grilles, gas tanks
Classic Tube 1-716-759-1800
A Division of Classic & Performance Specialists
80 Rotech Drive
Lancaster, NY 14086 USA
They supply steel and stainless steel pre-bent brake and fuel lines for
various makes of cars. I got half the brake lines and clutch lines
from them in stainless, and being the prudish restoration junkie I am,
I was concerned that the reproduction in stainless would not be very
“original”. However, I’m happy to say the final product is almost
identical to the original steel lines, most judges will not notice the
difference. – Mark Roberts (markdr@bnr.ca)
Concourse West, 644 Terminal Way, Costa Mesa CA 92627 714-642-9807
fax 714-645-8388
Have rebuilt diffs.
-PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)
Cordell R. Newby, 1410 N. Aurora, East Wenatchee, WA 98801 509-884-6823
Specializes in Mark V parts. New and used.
- s912!rick@bnf.com (Rick Ezneker)
Coshman Ent, PO Box 2685-J, Orcutt, CA 93455 1-805-937-7456
Whitworth tools, taps & dies, gauges, fasteners
Coventry Engineering, 9500 SW Martha St, Tigard, OR 97224 1-503-620-9482
wiring harnesses
Coventry S Ltd, 6406 85th Place, New Carrolton, MD 20784 1-800-537-4146
stainless exhaust systems
Joe Curto, 230-22 58th Ave. Bayside, NY 11364 1-718-465-4829
S.U. parts
Wes Czech, HCR 9550, Lucerne Valley, CA 92356 1-619-248-9603
XK parts
Stanley Daniel, 124 Parkview Rd. Cheltenham, PA 19012 1-215-782-1248
used Mark 7-9 parts from 30 cars, call after 9PM EST
Doctor Jaguar, 644 W 17th St, Costa Mesa, CA 92627 1-714-646-2816
parts, engines, trans, susp. parts
East Coast Jag Parts DE 1-302-475-7200
EJAG NEWS, Box J, Carlisle, Mass 01741 magazine, a few accessories
Engel Imports, Kalamazoo, Mich. 1-800-253-4080
new car dealer, will UPS, cheaper than other dealers
European Auto Specialists, 1-313-355-2730
OEM parts for late models
John Farrel, 4315 Murray St., Flushing, NY 11355 1-718-762-9071
NOS XK parts
Foreign Car Center, 1610 S Main, Milpitas, CA 95035 1-408-262-0325
used parts recycler
Grand Turisimo Jaguar, Eastlake, Ohio 1-800-852-4827, 1-216-951-2000
engine rebuilder, parts
Specializing in high performance parts and services. They list a
‘level 5’ Jaguar V12 with all of the whistles and bells like porting,
balancing, etc. with 6, count them, 6 two bbl Weber carbs mounted
vertically across the top of the V12! This engine sells for about
$13,500. - zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay)
Gunson Ltd., Pudding Mill Lane, London E15 2PJ
UK source for ColourTune
Tony Handler’s Foreign Parts Connection 1-213-473-7773
2028 Cotner Ave, Westwood, CA 90025
Harry CA 1-408-262-0235
used parts
H.P. Co., 1079 Colonial Club Dr, Harahan, LA 70123 1-504-737-4691
burled walnut dashboards
I-35 Imports Oklahoma 1-405-799-2886
used parts, 80 and older
Intermarque Auto Parts Houston 1-800-666-8700
parts and sheet metal
International Spare Parts 1-800-243-0073
J.K.Restorations, 12 Jackson, Oswego, IL 1-708-554-2120
complete restorations, specialist for XK and E, some used parts
Jag Atlanta, 3437 Sexton Woods Dr, Chamblee, GA 30341 1-800-533-8973
new, used parts for E and XJ 1-404-455-0175
Jaggist (Alan Trickel) 1065 Hillview, Ashland, OR 97520 1-503-535-8486
used XK parts
Jaguar Cars Inc, Public Relations, Mahwah NJ 1-201-818-9770
For a fee will authenticate your VIDNs.
-PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)
Jaguar Denver 1-800-426-4515
Lucas, Girling, Jag parts
Jaguar Heaven, 1433 Tillie Lewis Dr, Stockton, CA 95206-1130
info: 1-209-942-4524, orders: 1-800-969-4524, FAX: 1-209-942-3670
used parts recycler, all models
Jaguar Interiors of England, PO Box 47, Muncie, IN 47308 1-317-289-9901
carpeting and upholstery
Jaguar Motor Works, 3701 Longview Dr, Atlanta, GA 30341 1-800-331-2193
used XJ parts recycler, rebuilt parts Local 404-451-3839
FAX-404-451-7561
Jaguar of North America, Leonia, NJ 1-201-592-5200
factory American distributor
Jaguar South Greenville, SC 1-803-244-1555, 1-803-292-3934
used parts recycler
Jaguar parts SC 1-803-754-5363
Jaguar Warehouse, 6010 Mardale Lane, Burke, VA 22015 1-703-451-4071
NOS parts
Jaguar Warehouse, 5727 Walcott Ave, Fairfax, VA 22030 1-703-968-3983
XK parts
J C Whitney, Chicago, IL 312-431-6102
Also known as Warshawsky/Whitney. Sells car parts cheap for most cars
including LBCs. Massive buying power. Brainless order-takers. You
can call in the middle of the night for good long-distance rates. They
will not tell you brand names. All the swaybars are ADDCO. See also
ADDCO and Werace. - ?
J.C. Whitney offers a few items that are of interest. Things like generic
weatherstrip by the foot, etc. The do offer after market A/C units and
high output quartz halogen 7 inch headlights (110 watts!!!). The ad
carries the label ‘Not legal for street use.’ They look really cool.
- zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay)
John’s Cars, 800 Jaguar Lane, Dallas, TX 75226 1-214-426-4100
fax: 1-214-426-3116
V-8 conversions, other repro parts, claims improvements over stock
Just Jags, 407 Industrial Dr, Carmel, IN 46032 1-317-844-8823
new, used parts, service, restorations
Just Jags, 8720 Big Bend at Elm, St.Louis, MO 63119 1-314-968-2450
service, parts, restoration shop
Keller Associates, PO Box 2833, Saratoga, CA 95070 1-408-370-3705
burl walnut dashboards
Lister of North Am, 1912 Granvill Av, Muncie, IN 47308 1-800-338-8034
high performance accessories
Lovello, Mark SC 1-803-244-1555
used parts
Moss Motors, PO Box MG, 7200 Hollister Av, Goleta, CA 93116 800-235-6954
new and repro parts for XK’s
Moss Motors, Santa Barbara, California 1-805-963-0741
new car dealer
Cordell Newby, 1625 N Western, East Wenatchee, WA 98801 1-509-662-7748
new, used, repro parts for pre-war, Mark IV, V
added: Jul. 29, 1994
Nisonger Instrument Sales & Service 1-914-381-1952
570 Mamaroneck Ave. fax: 1-914-381-1953
Mamaroneck, NY 10543
Repairs capillary based guages.
“I had them repair my water temp gauge 2 months ago. Charge was $100
including
shipping, turnaround time was 2 weeks, and they take plastic.” Rob Reilly
Northwest Modern Classics, 121 Duryea, Raymond, WA 98577
interiors, carpets, upholstery, tops 1-800-854-1751,1-206-942-5532
Northwest Transmission Parts, Ohio 1-513-442-2811 or 1-800-327-1955
auto trans rebuilding kits, torque convertors
Peninsula Imports, 3749 Harlem Rd, Buffalo, NY 14215 1-800-999-1209
XJ, E body and rust repair panels 1-716-833-3000
Fred Petroske, RR1, Box 112, Chaumont, NY 13622 1-315-649-2861
used parts recycler, all models
Paul K. Phillips 1-305-846-7976
1124 N. W. 134 Ave. fax: 1-305-846-9450
Sunrise, FL 33323
Specializes in the XJ Coupe market and runs an XJC register.
“I have dealt with him once on an exhaust system (via a referral from
SICP) and got good service. He does require cash C.O.D. (no credit cards)
which is a bit of a bother.” - gladish@suite.com (Brian Gladish)
Phil’s, Inc. Ashland Ave, Evanston, IL 1-708-869-2434
PII Distributing, PO Box 27358, Houston, TX 77227-7358 1-800-231-5836
genuine Jaguar parts, sheet metal 1-713-975-6272
Chuck Pilate, 24996 W Magdalena Dr, Mt Clemens, MI 48045
XK, E parts 1-313-791-0429
Rich’s Import Auto Parts & Serv, 730 N Glebe Rd, Arlington, VA 22203
parts for E, XJ and 62 on sedans 1-800-336-6603, 1-703-522-0440
Rhino Auto Parts, Hanover, MN 1-612-498-8711
used and NOS parts 50’s to 70’s
Rhode Island Wiring Service, Box 3737H, Peace Dale, RI 02883
wiring harnesses 1-401-789-1955
Rhodes, John St. Louis, MO 1-314-961-2727
used parts
Martin Robey Panels, Pool Rd, Camp Hill 011-44-203-386-903
Industrial Estate, Nuneaton, Warks CV10 9AE England
Rodney, 2035 Cornell St, Sarasota, FL 33577 1-813-955-5960
used parts recycler
SCJ, 3 Elizabeth Ave, Burlington, MA 01803
NOS parts, pre-war to 61
Samplex, 30 Parkview Dr, Succasunna, NJ 07876 201-584-9370
US source for ColourTune
Special Interest Car Parts, 1340 Hartford Ave, Johnston, RI 02919
voice: 1-800-556-7496, 1-800-851-5600, 1-401-831-8850
fax: 1-800-672-SICP(1-800-672-7427), 1-401-831-7760
We have parts for your Jaguar, MG, Healey, TR. Good prices. Superb
catalog. Parts from XK120 through XJ40 including e-types. Will often
meet or beat prices from competitors.
S&S Specialties, 108 Sation St, Cumming, IA 50061 1-515-981-9148
NOS, rebuilt and used parts for XK, Mk and E, sheet metal parts
Stainless Steel Muffler Corp, 3032 Genesee St, Buffalo, NY 14225
stainless exhaust systems 1-716-893-2116
Terry’s Jaguar Parts, 117 E Smith St, Benton, IL 62812 1-800-851-9438
new and used parts for later models 1-618-439-4444
Bill Tracy, Sarasota, Florida 1-813-924-9523
new and repro parts for XK’s
Trans Ocean, Dept PDH, 390 Olive Tree Lane, Sierra Madre, CA 91024
Lucas parts jobber, '30 to '76 British cars
Welsh Jaguar Enterprises, Steubenville, Ohio 1-800-875-5247
new and repro parts for XK’s and newer 1-614-282-8649
fax: 1-614-282-1913
Catalogue available. (free)
The best prices for Jaguar parts that I have found.
- zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay)
Exc. inventory of parts, new and used. Can offer helpful technical advice.
-PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)
Ed West, 1941H Jan Marie Place, Tustin, CA 92680 1-714-832-2688
new, used, repro parts for earlier Jags
Ed west has lots of intresting stuff at very resonable prices and lots
of advice. – m_skogs@ix.netcom.com (Matthew Skosberg)
White Post Restorations, White Post, VA 22663 1-703-837-1140
restorations, brake and clutch cylinders resleeved
XK’s Unlimited, 850 Fiero Lane, San Luis Obispo, CA 93401 1-805-544-7864
new and repro parts for XK’s 1-800-444-JAGS
In CA: 805-544-7864 FAX: 805-544-1664
catalog available. ($6.00, refundable first order)
“Parts & Service for all model Jaguars from 1948 on” XK’s Unlimited is
a good place to send Girling calipers for for piston bore sleeving. -?
XK’s Unlimited is good, but is a bit higher than Welch Jaguar. They
are also committed to “correct” parts. Additionally, you can call them
without a part number. Just be sure that they tell you what is
included in the replacement part. - zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O.
Lindsay)
Good inventory and advice, but pricey. Nice catalogue. Has a
restoration shop sleeving brake cylinders in stainless.
-PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)
XKSS Interiors, Thousand Oaks, CA 91359 1-800-922-XKSS, 1-805-482-4682
interior and trim parts
Vicarage Jaguar 1-305-444-8759
% Gables Cats fax: 1-305-443-6443
220 Granello Avenue
Coral Gables, FL 33146
vicarage@ix.netcom.com (alt. vicarage@paradise.net)
http://paradise.net/vicarage
Vicarage says: If one is in need of specialized or hard to find parts
we will have them. In addition we do offer the unique Vicarage
upgrades and enhancement products for all post war Jaguars.
Zimmer, Bob 2675 Stoney Brook Rd, Orchard Park, NY 14127 1-716-652-7909
XK parts
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #20
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jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 30 March 1996 Volume 02 : Number 021
From: lupienj@wal.hp.com (John Lupien)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 96 14:52:12 EST
Subject: Re: 4.2 Engine ques…
I’ve got a couple of questions as I am rebuilding my 76 XJ6’s engine.
- The main bearing cap nuts are supposed to have lock tabs. I checked a
few parts sources and they don’t carry them. Should I:
A)Order a new set. (Where?)
B)Leave them out.
C)Replace them with lock washers
Depending on how touchy you are about original-parts-only issues,
you could also:
D) Fabricate them out of sheet metal
John R. Lupien
lupienj@wal.hp.com
From: alindsay@fit.edu (ALEX H. LINDSAY)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 08:45:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Off this Mailing list
I WANT OFF THIS FUCKING MAILING LIST
Ahhhhh! True class rears its ugly head once again.
Alex H. Lindsay
Ahh, yes. His mother must be very proud. LLoyd
From: Jim Goring jgoring@ccnet.com
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 13:36:50 +0000
Subject: Re: lesson learned
RWOODLIN@garfield.foods.indiana.edu wrote:
BTW, I phoned the owner of the shop and very politely
informed him of the error his mechanic made. He acknowledged the
instalation of the fuel line was incorrect but never uttered a hint of
apology! Needless to say my car will never visit his shop again…
Robert you were too much the gentleman. At least give yourself the
satisfaction of posting the offending mechanic’s business name here so
the list members can steer clear of it. He should have offered to
rebuild your brake system!
From: gvbjr@pluto.skyweb.net (gvb)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 22:43:02 +0100
Subject: Shop Manual
Can anyone recommend where to purchase a shop decent shop manual for a 1985 XJ6.
Thanks George
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 15:52:08 -0600
Subject: Dash replacement, door replacement, and other bits and pieces.
I am about to begin the project of replacing the dash in my '82 XJ6.
Are there any words of wisdom on how to do it easily and without scratching it?
I will also be replacing the left rear door. Any hints here?
I have found an instant cure for a leaking windshield gasket if it is
leaking at the top. Black plastic electrical tape if carefull applied to
the seam between the gasket and the metal is almost undetectable from 3 feet
away and it will seal the leak for months, maybe longer but mine has been on
there only 6 months so I dont know about long term reliability, but it is
cheap and easy and works.
Jim
===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"
John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 16:04:52 -0600
Subject: MSD ignition
Anyone have a schematic for an MSD ignition? Anyone have any idea whether
it would be applicable to my series II E-type?
I am removing it from my Lola racer and cant see just throwing it on the
shelf. It ought to be good for something. I doubt it could be used on the
XJ6 or the Seville since they are both computer controlled.
Maybe I could put it on the AMC 360 in my Bricklin.
Any suggestions?
Jim
===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"
John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 17:09:04 -0500
Subject: XJ-S Help Booklet
For those interested, I have just uploaded the latest version of my XJ-S
help booklet. The site is:
http://gcn.scri.fsu.edu/~palmk
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Ben Tobias BTEHQMDR@kbbsnet.com
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 14:08:20 -0800
Subject: Search for a vehicle
I have had a great time reading up on all that is going on with the people
and cars on this list. I’m still looking to enter the club of Jag owners.
Lately I have been in persuit of az '78 XLJ6 with a Chevy conversion already
installed.
Most of the '78’s are already converted. Originals are very rare in Southern
California. Plus the maintenance might be cheaper. Plus I’m a little
eccentric anyway so a converted car is right up my alley. Where should I be
looking?
I’d appreciate any comments…8)
Sincerely;
Ben
From: tony goodall tony@goodall.u-net.com
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 22:39:31 -0000
Subject: Re: XJ6 SIII auto-trans reparation
At 18:31 28/03/96 -0000, Zoran Mitrovic wrote:
Dear friends
and now my adventure begins. I will try to drive my wounded beast from
Switzerland to England, precisely to Vicarage in Wolverhampton!
Be sure to eat a “Balti” while you are there
(The West Mids being the Balti-captial of the world!!)
lamb Tikka Masala is nice!!
cheers
tony
Dr. A. Goodall http://www.u-net.com/~goodall/
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 18:42:16 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: MSD ignition
Anyone have a schematic for an MSD ignition? Anyone have any idea whether
it would be applicable to my series II E-type?
Yep, and yep.
I am removing it from my Lola racer and cant see just throwing it on the
shelf. It ought to be good for something. I doubt it could be used on the
XJ6 or the Seville since they are both computer controlled.
XJ6 Series III, yes. XJ40, no. The Series III is not computer controlled. It’s
mechanical, with an electronic switching. The electronics are pretty much the
same as a small block Chevy HEI (and a 2 Liter Fiat Spyder :). What American
speed-parts company would design something not compatable with HEI? :>
Maybe I could put it on the AMC 360 in my Bricklin.
Should work here, too.
Any suggestions?
Install it where ever you want. If it doesn’t seem to make any difference,
pull it back out. Those things (6A series, anyway) are hell on coils. The
Jag XK engine, at street rpm’s, probably will not benefit that much, due
to it’s hemi head and centralized plug. The Bricklin, with it’s 4"+ bore
and side plug would most likely gain the most.
Second thought. Maybe, just maybe, the Series III with the MSD, a hot coil,
and the plug gap pried out to around .050 (1.3mm), will idle smoothly. :>
Randy
From: kboetzer@auspex.com (Ken Boetzer)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 16:03:30 -0800
Subject: Re: 4.2 Engine ques…
I’ve got a couple of questions as I am rebuilding my 76 XJ6’s engine.
- The main bearing cap nuts are supposed to have lock tabs. I checked a
few parts sources and they don’t carry them. Should I:
A)Order a new set. (Where?)
B)Leave them out.
C)Replace them with lock washers
Curt,
Do NOT use lock washers. I would use an SAE (this implies a quality controled
for material, heat treat, and dimensions) flat washer. You need to torque
(of course) properly and if you want extra assurance use some red locktite.
2)Should I be using lock washers on the rod big-end cap nuts?
I would do as above.
3)What is the secret to getting the rear oil seal installed? It seems
like there is an extra two inches of gasket(That I managed to jam into
place with a screw driver.)
Not my area of expertice. Sorry.
4)Valve guide seals: Needed or not?
I like them.
5)What is the best way to adjust the valves?
Very carefully, :-))))))) Couldn’t resist!
Kirbert will no doubt have better info than I.
By the way my above advice is based on building race engines not street so
some may disagree.
Curt Onstott | Phone: 737-1483Consultant, Information Services | Email: onstottc@ucs.orst.edu
Oregon State University | Office: MCC 150
Cheers,
Ken Boetzer
From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 19:24:39 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ-S ECU Open/Closed Loop
At 09:33 AM 3/29/96 -0500, Kirby Palm wrote:
I disconnected the pushrods, so turning the pot didn’t affect the
butterflies.
Then, while idling warm, turning the bellcrank very slowly, there is a very
sudden change when it gets about 1/16" off the idle stop.Now I have not tried this. Is this a good way of checking the throttle pot
setting?If it is, I invented it. But it makes sense. I got the adjustment
procedure described in my booklet from a mechanic at a Jag dealer. Both it
and the one using a special tool in the Jag repair manual indicate you
should be at a particular resistance at idle, and don’t care about anywhere
else. If this is the case, the ECU must sense that it’s at idle at this
resistance – presumably to do something about it. That, in fact, is what I
was looking for when I pulled off the pushrods and started turning the pot.
OK, so I tried the Kirby test. Pushrods off, engine idling warm, etc., etc.
With about 1/8" of movement (estimated distance ears on side of bellcrank
move), I get the change in idle you describe.
Did it both with the test connector on and off. Same behaviour.
So maybe my car never knows its at idle, so it never shuts off the fuel on
trailing throttle,
and the engine speed can’t drop as much?That’s the possibility I was asking about.
Well, at least we know that both our ECUs know when the car is idling.
Can you or Robert Dingli or Michael Neal confirm whether fuel flow is shut
off under trailing throttle?
Or, is your car for some reason
not able to
get the fuel injecting again in time for the idle speed to not drop loo low?And that’s the possibility I’m considering on my car. But I don’t even know
for sure that the Digital P system even does this fuel shutoff. And if it
is the problem, would it be considered normal or is something wrong with
mine? After all, you would never have this problem in D – once you reach
2500 RPM, you can’t suddenly drop to 0 because you’re goin’ about 50 mph.
We need help in identifying the components in the ECU that determine how
quickly it responds (and within what ‘tightness’ of control limits) to
transients. Oy vey, if we get all this black art figured out we won’t need
the ECU rebuilders anymore!
What about the doohickey that adds air to the right intake on cold starts?
Could this or some other vacuum leak be leaning out your mixture a little
more under these circumstances than the ECU can compensate for?Or that doohickey at the rear end of the left manifold. But herein lies
another question for Dingli: Does the EFI system provide a fixed amount of
fuel per revolution at idle, or does it vary with manifold vacuum? Even if
it were fixed, you would think that an air leak would raise the idle,
therefore causing more pulses and bringing the AFR back into line.
Adding vacuum leaks at idle (like by pulling hoses) does raise the idle
speed. But I think you are really asking whether the MAP sensor is doing
anything when idling. OK, here’s a Napoli test: idle the engine warm, pull
and plug the vacuum line to the ECU and look for changes. Do it both ways
(test connector in and out), too.
And more questions, suggested by Neal’s instructions to check for closed
loop by monitoring O2 sensor voltage:
Do the O2 sensors operate by, say, changing their resistance such that the
correct voltage appears across them at stoich? Or, do they generate the
appropriate voltage at stoich? In either case, how does that tell you that
the ECU is in closed loop? Wouldn’t the appearance of the target voltage
just tell you that the AF ratio is at stoich? You would seem to be taking
it on faith at this point that the ECU is operating in closed loop. If this
conjecture is true, then don’t you really need a better way to tell when you
are in closed loop?
Regards,
John
From: “Carpenter, Trebor*” Carpenter#m#_Trebor*@msgate.apple.com
Date: 29 Mar 1996 18:15:02 -0700
Subject: XJ6 Series 3 - No Reverse
Hi folks,
Just finished reading the very informative piece of Tranny Theory on the
JagWeb page… down near the end it says, “Have you had any of them lose
reverse yet? That’s another novel in itself.” Well, I’ve got an 1981 XJ6
Series 3 with the BW tranny - and it’s lost reverse. The other gears behave
themselves. Any one care to write the novel for me?
- –Trebor
Carpenter#m#_Trebor*@msgate.apple.com
From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 19:27:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Any Experience With Crane’s Electronic Ignition Retrofit?
At 07:42 AM 3/29/96 -0800, L. W. (Bill) Clark wrote:
Kirby…
Thanks for the thought, the Allison was one I had lying round and was a
quick fix after the Lucas became a random number generator and blew the
exhaust pipes off with a helluva bang at circa 70 mph.At a British Swap meet someone else mentioned that they had problems over
5000 rpm also, and at present it’s probably a good max speed regulator for me.I had wondered about retrofitting an HE engine complete in the E-type, as
perhaps a quicker and cheaper fix than a complete rebuild which I could then
do at my leisure (over then next ten years?). Haven’t checked the
feasability yet though.
L. W. (Bill) Clark
1965 MkII
1973 V12 E-type
Maybe you are running out of coil capacity. 12 cylinders + 5000 rpm does
not leave much time for coil saturation. Some twelves break their ignitions
into 2 six cylinder systems for this reason; some (all?) Jag V12s use two
coils in parallel.
Regards,
John
From: JQJF14A@prodigy.com (MR JOHN W SHUCK)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 19:32:49 EST
Subject: Fuel hose used as brake hose.
I don;t know if I would be so quick to condemn the hose used. This
stuff has to contend with methanol and stuff that is more nasty that
brake fluid. That are the ratings for the hose. John Shuck…
xk120, e-type other brit stuff two and 4 wheel.
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 29 Mar 96 21:06:53 EST
Subject: Off this Mailing list
Dear Ian,
Just dont get on the list in the first place. We dont particulary want swearing
obnoxious people like you to write obscene notes. Didn’t your mum teach you
behave ?
Now if you’ll be a good boy and ask nicely someone might log you off, but ohh
dont do this again. You just dont know how many messages might hit your
“postoffice”
Regards (I didn’t mean it).
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 22:20:55 -0500
Subject: Re: 4.2 Engine ques…
I’ve got a couple of questions as I am rebuilding my 76 XJ6’s engine.
5)What is the best way to adjust the valves?
Very carefully, :-))))))) Couldn’t resist!
Kirbert will no doubt have better info than I.
Moi? I don’t know squat about adjusting XJ6 valves. My advice would be to
do it exactly the way the repair manual suggests!
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: GNKP18A@prodigy.com ( JOHN T HORNER)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 22:57:29 EST
Subject: Re: Fiat
- – [ From: John Horner * EMC.Ver #2.10P ] –
I still miss my '76 X1/9 which brought me so much pleasure (and a few
heart-aches)in my college years. I’ve yet to drive another car which
has steering feel equal to that car or one which is as fun to toss
around the back roads.
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 23:00:03 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: 4.2 front seal
Re Lloyd’s front seal
4.2 liter engine and it appears to be leaking from the front seal. (Why are
you not surprised?)
…
The pulley should more or less fall off, the big damper is on a taper and
located by a woodruff key. Then it is a case of leverage if you are lucky, or
a puller if not.
The harmonic balancer will come off fairly easily. It sits on a taper, like
a ball joint.The trick is not to pull it straight off, but rather to rock it.
Pry out on one side, and tap in on the other. PING. Leave the big bolt in a
few threads to catch this heavy thing when it does decide to JUMP off.
The seal will prise out. Re replacement seals. don’t know, I used the one
in the gasket set. Nothing special.
On a V-12, the front seal will pop right out. On the 4.2, the seal is captive.
It sits in a groove in both the timing case and the oil pan. To get it out,
and back in, you need to remove the oil pan, the front pulleys and balancer,
the taper collar, the woodruff key, the oil seal collet, and finally drop the
seal down and out.
Assembly is reverse of disassembly. :>
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
From: Curt Onstott onstottc@ucs.orst.edu
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 21:34:21 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Another 4.2 engine question
I’ve got another stupid question. On the freeze/core plugs, there are a
bunch of big ones, two smaller ones, and then one really small one. Do the
two smaller ones go into the block with the concave or convex side facing
out? They don’t seem to fit as tightly as the large ones do when they
are inserted with concave side going out.
Curt Onstott | Phone: 737-1483
Consultant, Information Services | Email: onstottc@ucs.orst.edu
Oregon State University | Office: MCC 150
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 1996 11:39:01 -0600
Subject: Jag better than Caddy? Oil pressure loss!!
As I sat in my Jag 100 miles from home happily touring at 70mph watching the
miles go by I imagined the post I was going to make about how I had started
the morning in my Seville headed for California (1400 miles away). Just out
of the drive way I discovered that I had a MASSIVE radiator leak and took
everything out of the Caddy and put it into the XJ6. Now at least I would
have a car I could trust. The car was puring like a Jag should
Just then I noticed a flicker in the oil pressure needle and watched in
horror as it droped through 40, settling on 25lbs while at 70MPH!!! I
stopped at the next service station and checked the oil. Two quarts low,
but that shouldnt cause a drop in pressure. Put in two quarts and said to
the wife, “That may fix it.” But I knew better. Another 20 miles down the
road I turned around and headed for home as the pressure was fluxuating
between 25 and 40 not constant at all, never getting above 40. Normaly this
car sits on 50 when cruising. Something is wrong.
Does this sound like a stuck pressure relief valve?
If it is, then the pressure registered when the valve is stuck should be a
good indication of the realitive condition of the rod and main bearings.
Anyone have any idea what the pressure should be with the relief valve stuck
open?
Or maybe it is something else. The main symptom is that it was sudden and
that the pressure seems to varry some while cruising at a constant speed.
Anyway I am now on my way again with an airline ticket and a rental
Oldsmobile! What a bitch.
When I get home I will sort it out as per any suggestions I get from this post.
Jim
“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil
From: croned@rcinet.com (Daniel Crone)
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 1996 14:18:14 -0500 (EST)
Subject: HR or SR tires to replace VR series?
Recommended for the 89 XJ40 is P205/70VR15. The VR is a stiffer tire than
either the HR or the SR. The HR and SR are more readily available in this
area, and seem lesser priced. My question is: Is it worth the extra money
for the VR series when 80 mph is as fast as I ever drive? There is a Pirelli
P4000 series that is 89.99 and comes in a V rating. This is much less than
the over 200$ per tire asked for the Pirelli P5, the original equipment
tire. Any experience, positive or negative, with tires out there?
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #21