jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 29 March 1995 Volume 01 : Number 007----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Zach65@aol.com
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 1995 17:49:11 -0500
Subject: Why Did it Fail?
A couple of months ago, I was attempting to improve the feel of my '69 E’s
clutch – mine did not disengage until the last, say, quarter of pedal
travel; fully half of the travel was basically “dead.” I adjusted the clutch
operating rod (i.e. the rod that is acted upon by the clutch slave cylinder)
as described in the shop manual, but, upon replacing the external return
spring, the adjustment was “absorbed” and the clutch feel was again poor.
Despite my car being in the range that, according to the shop manual,
required the spring, leaving the spring off immeasurably improved clutch feel
and allowed my adjustment to be “preserved.” So, I left the spring off.
A friend, who has a '70 2+2, removed his external return spring as well (he
had similar clutch feel, but not quite as bad). Unfortunately, he is the
fellow that prompted me to recently post a query about fitting a new throwout
bearing to an E-Type without resorting to removing the engine/transmission
from the car. (BTW, thanks to all for the responses – the upshot was that
it was best by far just to bite the bullet and pull the @#!$%
engine/transmission, and that’s what we’re going to do.)
So I’ve just become very concerned about the cause of this failure. The E
has a “graphite” throwout bearing, and the one on my friend’s car seems to
have cracked up and fallen out (we found pieces of it in his driveway). We
are making the wild guess that, due to the absence of the return spring, the
throwout bearing was constantly riding against the pressure plate, and then
overheated and failed. I am fearful that mine will do the same, and I’m
hoping for some reassurance that leaving the spring off is okay (or a warning
to put the spring back on and an explanation of how to make the clutch feel
okay that way).
All responses will be very much appreciated.
- – Kevin Williams
'69 E
'85 XJ6 VDP
lotsa British bikes
whole lotta patience
From: Greg Meboe meboe@wsunix.wsu.edu
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 1995 15:33:18 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Why Did it Fail?
Kevin,
I wonder why you desire to move the ‘sticky point’ of the clutch
nearer to the top of its travel. The sign of a good clutch is a
near-floor engagement point, all other things being equal. Of course,
brakes are the other way around.
As to whether the t/o bearing shattered due to a constant
scrubbing, I’d doubt it. MG’s have a similar setup, but I don’t believe
that all used the return spring concept like Jaguar did.
Greg
Greg Meboe meboe@wsunix.wsu.edu
Dept. of Mechanical and Materials Engineering
Washington State University, Pullman, Wa.
'85 XJ-12 H.E. (daily) '67 Spit-6 '74 TR-6
From: LLoyd 3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@cmsa.Berkeley.EDU
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 95 15:57:21 PST
Subject: clutch petals
The reason the clutch should release at the bottom of the travel is because
it gives the throwout bearing the most distance so it won’t touch the
pressure plate and rub against it. Also, once the pressure plate is re-
leased enough for the clutch disk to turn ‘freely’, there is no advantage
to pressing harder on the release springs.
All things being properly adjusted, it is best therefore for the clutch
to release at the bottom of the petal, but for it to not be dragging at
that point.
LLoyd -put in a bunch in my day-
BTW, when replacing a clutch, check the flywheel, also replace the throw-
out bearing and pressure plate. Saves big bucks in the long run, unless it
is easy to pull the tranny and get at…
From: Greg Meboe meboe@wsunix.wsu.edu
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 1995 17:02:52 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Interior Redo Details (medium length)
In reply to several list members who requested a description of how the
seat re-dye job was performed, here it is.
I started by pulling all of the seats. It was easier than I
imagined. Once they were on the bench, I brushed them off, and we began
by putting a little of the water-based, non-caustic CT-600 cleaner on a
rag and wiping down all of the surfaces. This was followed with a few
damp cloth rinses, then drying with another rag.
This however, didn’t seem to pull the dirt out of the leather
‘grains’. So we put the CT-600 in a spray bottle, lightly coated the
seats with it, and scrubbed lightly with a soft nylon scrubbing brush.
This we followed with a few damp cloth rinses, and finished by drying
with another rag. The leather was so clean and supple after this
cleaning, we could have stoped right there if there weren’t patches where
the original dye had worn off.
We cleaned the vinyl sides of the seat with laquer thinner and a
scrub brush, which was quick and effective. Gerard warned against using
laquer thinner or other organic solvents on the leather itself, since the
wait time for all of the thinner to evaporate from the leather would be more
than a week, whereas with the water based cleaner it was not a problem if
rinsing was thorough.
We waited a few hours to apply the dye. We used cheap disposable
foam brushes, and did about three or four thin coats to all of the
leather surfaces, waiting 1/2 to 1 hour between coats. The atmosphere
was warm and dry (in-law’s kitchen table). We coated the vinyl with two
to three thicker coats, as the grain of the vinyl was much more pronounced
than that of the leather.
I used a Bissel carpet cleaner on the carpets and headliner, and
we re-installed the seats. Overall working time for Dianne and me was 4
days. We had to disassemble the rear seat bottom (a moderate pain, but
we did it in front of the TV so it went quickly), to replace a corner
piece of leather which had a gash in it. Reassembly of the rear seat
bottom was not difficult, just time consuming to ensure a wrinkle free cover.
Again, we’re very happy with the results. We’ll wait a few more
days, then soak the seats with Lexol Neatsfoot Oil to try to moisten the
leather all the way through. This should keep them in good shape for
awhile.
There were some cracks in the seats, and the dye was able to fill
these to a degree. Gerard mentioned that he could use a leather crack
filler, but I decided not to go with that. For this job, I wanted to
maintain the softness and suppleness of the leather, at the expense of a
few cracks. Perhaps the crack filler would have been just fine, but I
kept imagining wallboard filler paste, so we decided to stick with the
dye. I think it’s flexible enough to stay in the cracks for some time.
We’ll see how it goes.
The interior really does look brand new. Even the vinyl has the
proper flatness, or ‘leather sheen’ to it. I’ve seen 3 or 4 different
interior leather dyes, and I believe this one is the best so far. The
cost came out under $100, or just over that if you count the $32.50 the
upholsterer charged me to sew the leather piece into the disassembled
cover.
So we’re happy. I imagine when I get out of school and get a
real job, and the kids (future) have trashed the leather, I’ll spring for
new leather covers altogether, but until then we have a very much
presentable interior at a fraction of the cost. I was even thinking I’d
make vinyl upholstry for the baby seat and dye it to match the rest of
the interior. Perhaps I’ll put a leaping kitty on the front ‘grab rail’
of the baby seat?
Greg
Greg Meboe meboe@wsunix.wsu.edu
Dept. of Mechanical and Materials Engineering
Washington State University, Pullman, Wa.
'85 XJ-12 H.E. (daily) '67 Spit-6 '74 TR-6
From: Kirby Palm palmk@freenet.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 1995 21:08:57 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: 2.9 Motor in XJ40
You are saying that people are building DOHC, 48 valve V-12s by mating
two AJ-6 cylinder heads to the V-12 block?
It’s been done. The problem is that one head will have the exhaust ports
toward the center, intakes outside. To fix this, the front of the AJ6
head is sawed off and welded back on the other end, and the head
installed backwards. Also, the firing order is wrong, so either the cams
(all four) or the crank must be replaced. The project I heard about
replaced the crank, going to an oversize anyway.
— Kirbert
- Palm’s Postulate: If anything is to be accomplished, *
-
some rules must be broken. *
| Kirby Palm, P.E. |
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Mon, 27 Mar 1995 22:17:21 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Why Did it Fail?
As to whether the t/o bearing shattered due to a constant
scrubbing, I’d doubt it. MG’s have a similar setup, but I don’t believe
that all used the return spring concept like Jaguar did.Greg
Greg is correct here. BMC products used the graphite thrust “bearing” with
no return spring for many years. They also did not have any adjustment
in the slave pushrod. The whole mechanism floated, be returned to the
correct point by the “kick” of the pressure plate. It was in effect
self-adjusting much in the way, no… exactly in the way disc brakes
self adjust.
When the graphite ring wears, the relase arm has to pivot closer to the
clutch to mantain adjustment. Due to the bellcrank effect of the release
arm movement, this screws up the geometry of the linkage, and leads to
a clutch that feels a bit soft and releases low. Having never seen the cars
in question, I would venture a guess that your friends bearing was about
to fail, and removing the spring temporarily improved the feel. Removing
the spring was not the primary cause of failure.
On your car… The factory put the spring there. I have not seen a TSB
recommending it’s removal. Therefore, I feel it should stay there. Adjust
the slave pushrod to the factory specs with the spring removed, then install
the spring. I do not, off the top of my head, remember the spec.
If you have a lot of dead slop at the top of the pedal travel before you
feel things picking up, look at the clevis pin that attaches the master
pushrod to the pedal. These are known to wear, in some case quite badly.
Due to the mechanical advantages of the pedal and linkage, it is possible
to lose over an inch of pedal travel to a worn clevis.
Randy
From: Gunnar.Forsgren@eua.ericsson.se (Gunnar Forsgren)
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 95 15:00:27 +0200
Subject: Re: XJ6 S-1 tilt fixture
It is currently mounted 45 degrees on a tiltable fixture with the wheels off
Rob Reilly writes :
I’d like to hear more about this tilt fixture, as I am in need of such a
thing. I need to replace some rusted out areas under my '74 XJ12 S-2; the
left side front and rear jacking point panels are crumbling away.
Here are some details on my setup,
The fixture I use is a danish design called ‘Auto-Vip’, similar
to a swedish model called ‘Tip-Girl’ sold these days.
Basically this kind of fixture consists of two arc-shaped
frames bolted onto each wheel pair and interconnected with
a rod to keep the pair in a fixed position.
(very hard to describe in words and how do I produce
arc-shaped ASCII art ?)
Once bolted on the car the body can be tilted between 0-90 degrees
and be locked in some 8-10 positions in between.
I currently use it with the engine still mounted in the car
with oil still in the engine so I avoid a 90 degree tilt…
This makes for convenient access to the bodyframe for
welding/grinding/scraping off rust protect coats, etc…
The fixture is pretty cumbersome to install on a heavy car,
not something you mount up and down every day but rather
suited for a long term bodywork job.
The car is lifted one wheelpair in turn high enough to
get the arc pieces in position under the wheel pair.
The arcs are bolted onto the wheel bolts.
The procedure is then repeated on the other wheelpair
One must have access to a resonably high-lifting hoist
while struggling to get the interconnecting rod in place.
One must be aware of exactly what one is doing not to
risk ending up with a car flat on the floor with the wheels off
and/or possibly personal injury. Jags are heavy stuff.
The hoist is used together with a special underframe lifting bar
which comes with the fixture and aids in lifting the car
with the hoist placed centrally under the car close to the wheel pair.
A standard 2-ton japanese Kamasa style garage hoist will just about
suffice.
Once mounted the fixture is perfectly safe to work with,
the trouble is only when mounting/dismounting the car.
I bought my danish fixture some two years ago for appr $450,
It is a slightly more heavy duty version of
the mentioned swedish model which sells for $750 as new today.
An XJ is about the maximum in size and weight
for this kind of commercially available fixture.
With the engine out of the car there is much less weight to handle.
I also remember having seen an example of a home design
XJ tiltable fixture a few years back which mounted directly
to the bodyframe, useful if working on an empty bodyshell
without front rear axlees in place. But building one’s own
is not something I recommend unless one is very versed
in welding and steel construction.
I know nothing about what products exists in the U.S
in this area.
From: “mark (m.d.) roberts” markdr@bnr.ca
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 10:12:00 -0500
Subject: XJ6 production numbers and work on the E-Type
Since you asked for the production figures for the XJ6, here
they are:
Series 1 Sept 1968 to Aug 1973
Jaguar 2.8 l 19,322
Jaguar 4.2 l 59,077 swb, 874 lwb
Jaguar V12 2474 swb, 754 lwb
Daimler 2.8 l 3223
Daimler 4.2 l 11,522 swb, 386 lwb
Daimler Double 6 534 swb, 351 lwb VDP
Series II Sept 1973 to Feb 1979
Jaguar 3.4 l 6880
Jaguar 4.2 l 12,147 swb, 57,804 lwb
Jaguar 4.2 l coupe (XJ6C) 6487
Jaguar V12 16,010
Jaguar V12 coupe (XJ12C) 1855
Daimler 3.4 l 2341
Daimler 4.2 l 2341 swb, 14,531 lwb
Daimler 4.2 l coupe 1677
Daimler Double 6 2608 swb, 1726 VDP
Daimler Double 6 coupe 407
Series III Mar 1979 to Apr 1987 ( Dec 1992 for V12)
Jaguar 3.4 l 5799
Jaguar 4.2 l XJ6 97,349
Jaguar 4.2 l Sovereign 20,548
Jaguar V12 15,918 (total)
Jaguar V12 Vanden Plas ?
Daimler 4.2 l 6980
Daimler 4.2 l Vanden Plas 20,738
Daimler Double 6 9911
I put in the V12 Vanden Plas because here in Canada, the series III cars
came in 4 styles, XJ6, Sovereign (4.2l), XJ12, Vanden Plas (V12). The
Sovereign is the upscale version of the XJ6, and the VDP is the upscale
version of the XJ12. I know in the States, both the Sovereign and
the VDP are upscale XJ6’s, and there were no series III XJ12’s. What’s
the situation in the rest of the world ?
For those interested, Jaguar also sold the XJ40 with a V12 in it from
1993 to 1994. I have only seen two of these, one at the car launch, (that
car was the first one in North America), and one on the road on a cold
day in January in 1994 when the roads were white…with salt. Boy I
wish I could be that rich to care so little about a Jaguar !
If you are suspect to any of these figues, don’t blame me, they came from
Classic and Sports Cars, April 1995, Vol 14 Number 1.
Now for the part nearer and dearer to my heart, the E-Type restoration
is moving along well. The past weekend was great, I put in the new
fuel line (British Auto/USA), finished setting up the carbs on the
bench and put in the new thermostat (XK’s Unlimited), thus the intake
manifold is ready to bolt on, put in the clutch slave cylinder and
hydraulic lines and added silicon brake fluid ( yes Tom, I’ve been
listening, but I’m not sure I’ll use silicon for the brakes themselves,
as a friend used it in his, and had to replace ALL the rubber in the
system, including the brake light sensor on the front frame - no flames
please, this is an old thread), and lastly set up the timing of the
cams after correctly setting the upper cam chain tension. The timing
was a REAL big pain trying to get the inner small-toothed disk to
line up and engage the cam chain sprocket and cam. I looked at the
newer 4.2 l engine I have (1968 vintage), and the inner and outer
disks are not full circles as in my 3.8 l. This would make the timing
much easier to set. It took about 3 hours of fiddling with 4 moving
pieces, of which you can control only 3 to finally get it right.
So, the next big hurdle is to check the wiring out completely (Rhode
Island Wiring, note: they also re-loom wiring harnesses in cotton braid
with the correct colour tracers - in the loom, for a reasonable price,
so you don’t have to use electrical tape ever again to wrap the harness;
I replace one harness completely and fixed and re-loomed 4 others, excellent
job) with the battery, a la Rick Lindsay…it’s been 14 years since my car
has been powered, mount the radiator (Terry’s Jaguar Parts) and add
fluids and pre-pressurize the oil system. I figure by end of April,
all’s well, I should be able to start the engine up…oh I’m getting
goose bumps just thinking about it…
Sorry for the wasted band width, but I had to tell someone.
Mark R.
Mark Roberts Phone (613) 763-2924
1963 3.8L E-Type Coupe Fax: (613) 763-3970
14 years into a 3 year project email: markdr@bnr.ca
From: “W. Ray Gibbons” gibbons@northpole.med.uvm.edu
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 11:04:09 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Interior Redo Details (medium length)
On Mon, 27 Mar 1995, Greg Meboe wrote:
new leather covers altogether, but until then we have a very much
presentable interior at a fraction of the cost. I was even thinking I’d
make vinyl upholstry for the baby seat and dye it to match the rest of
the interior. Perhaps I’ll put a leaping kitty on the front ‘grab rail’
of the baby seat?
Greg
Some people are never satisfied. One day he wants to keep cats off the
bonnet, and the next he wants a kitty on the baby seat. I thought Jags
were supposed to have a kitty on the bonnet?
Ray Gibbons Dept. of Molecular Physiology & Biophysics
Univ. of Vermont College of Medicine, Burlington, VT
gibbons@northpole.med.uvm.edu (802) 656-8910
From: wkroppe@cpm428.be.ford.com (BJ Kroppe)
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 95 11:41:34 EST
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V1 #6XJ6 Leaks??!!??!
While driving my 82 XJ6 S3 home in the driving sleet last night, I was
horrified to feel dripping on both of my ankles. I felt beneath the
driver’s underscuttle and felt lots of water in the fuse box area (!). I also
felt water dripping from the hand brake lever.
I have heard that XJ6s leak, but have not experienced it until now. I do have
the signature rust bubbles at the lower corner of the front and rear screens.
Where is this leaking coming from? Is it accessible so that I can seal it?
Apologies if this question has been on this list before. I cannot access
the ftp sites or web sites due to a firewall my company uses to prevent such
access (so I am told).
Thanks for any help.
From: meb4593@ungoliant.ca.boeing.com
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 95 09:13:01 PST
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V1 #6XJ6 Leaks??!!??!
“BJ” == BJ Kroppe wkroppe@cpm428.be.ford.com writes:
BJ> While driving my 82 XJ6 S3 home in the driving sleet last night, I
BJ> was horrified to feel dripping on both of my ankles. I felt
BJ> beneath the driver’s underscuttle and felt lots of water in the
BJ> fuse box area (!). I also felt water dripping from the hand brake
BJ> lever.
You may be suffering from yet another instance of British Rubber. I
had the seal replaced on my XJ-S. You may be able to fix it with some
special windshield sealant; getting the tip between the glass and the
rubber may be a challenge.
Don’t use silicone sealer. It shrinks over time and leaves big holes
for water to flow through! (Some of the things we discover from prior
work that was performed.)
Michael Bain (206) 294-1191
Boeing Commercial Airplane Group Seattle, WA
777 Division - AIMS meb4593@ungoliant.ca.boeing.com
Bagdikian’s Observation:
Trying to be a first-rate reporter on the average American newspaper is like trying to play Bach’s “St. Matthew Passion” on a ukelele.
From: Greg Meboe meboe@wsunix.wsu.edu
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 13:42:08 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Interior glue technical details
- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: ccamley@mmm.com
Greg,
Following is a note I received on gluing LBCs…I hope you find it
informative. I’ve always wondered why there are so many kinds of
adhesives. This gives a little idea of why that might be.
Let me know if there’s anything more I can do for you.
Regards,
Chris
I received some info from you via Diana Fasbender concerning a message
from Greg Meboe and his dissatisfaction with some 3M Aerosol Adhesives.
I am the product marketeer for the ITSD Industrial Aerosol Adhesives and
I formerly was the product marketeer for Auto Trades Aerosol Adhesives.
Here are some comments I would have on the results which Mr Meboe had:
- 74 Foam Fast Adhesive is an excellent foam bonding adhesive which performs
well up to about 120 degrees F. Above that temp, the adhesive will soften,
and with sufficient stress, you can pull the foam apart. It is possible to
experience up to 150+ degrees in a closed car, and the seat part does see
a fair amount of stress when a person is sitting on it.
Another 3M product which is a good foam bonder and has 160 degree temp
resistance is General Trim Adhesive, pn 08080, which is sold by the
Automotive Trades Division. This would be a better product to try for
seat bottoms.
- 76 is a good product—but does NOT have very good plasticizer resistance.
Vinyl material is typically loaded with plasticizing oils, and in time these
plasticizers migrate from the vinyl to the adhesive, and they soften the
adhesive to the point the adhesive becomes very soft and gummy and “lets go”.
76 has 160 degree F temp resistanceand would work on foam bonding, but vinyl
bonding would not be a long term success.
A better product for bonding vinyl is Super Trim Adhesive, pn 08090, also
sold by Automotive Trades Division. Super Trim is a neoprene-based contact
adhesive in an aerosol can. It has 200 degree F temp resistance, and is
plasticizer resistanct. In fact, Super Trim is very good for reattaching
vinyl tops, vinyl trim,etc in auto restoration projects.
I hope this info is of some help. Please feel free to pass on this info
to Mr Meboe. As we do not have actual substrate samples to test, it would
be advisable for Mr Meboe to test with the products indicatedbeforehand
in order to judge how adequate the adhesives would be for his restoration
project.
Best Regards,
Timothy J. Hesse
From: “Graham, Tom D.” UCISTDG@cis.unocal.com
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 95 14:48:00 PST
Subject: ECU codes
Hello Chaps-
On the 80-87 S3 sedans, does the engine ECU store trouble codes? You know,
like can I go into it and read off trouble history?? (Other than the ECU
has turned into a smoking piece of charcoal !!! 
Cherio - Tom
From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@compuserve.com
Date: 29 Mar 95 09:30:36 EST
Subject: Re: Alloy XK120 670168
Dear Bill, I will try to get the article faxed to you in the next 24 hrs. Re
Material Search: I have not been in touch but your description of their ads
sounds familiar. Are they the people who make the clips for wiring as well? I
will be interested to hear what you find out. I think my best chance re the
clips will be from a Mk V or VII owner. Ron Wylie owns alloy 120 chassis no.
660014 which he bought Jan 71. Last I heard, about 10 yrs ago, was that the
restoration was nearing completion. I will let you have an update if I can
later. I have not chased the car up recently, nor has anyone volunteered
anything. Incidentally, about 3-4 years ago, some Englishmen landed here, with
a copy of our book on all Australian XKs, and proceeded to try to buy up the
lot! They did take back 2 or 3 alloy cars to the UK including 660002, but I
think the Wylie car is still here. Australia got relatively many alloy cars -
21 of the 58 or so RHD cars.
From: “Rob Reilly” reilly@admail.fnal.gov
Date: 29 Mar 1995 08:32:01 -0600
Subject: Re: E-type Clutch Pedal
Subject: Time:8:10 AM
OFFICE MEMO Re>E-type Clutch Pedal Date:3/29/95
I would put the return spring back on. I can’t see any good reason for not
having one, and one good reason for having one. It’s purpose is to prevent
the throwout bearing from constantly riding on the pressure plate and wearing
itself out prematurely.
I don’t remember on the E whether the adjustment is inside at the pedal
linkage to the master, or on the operating rod of the slave cylinder, but
either way regardless it should be adjusted so (starting from the “foot off
pedal” position) you get about one inch or so of pedal travel (and maybe a
quarter inch or so of slave rod travel) before the throwout bearing contacts
the pressure plate and you begin to feel increased resistance in the pedal.
If you can’t achieve this spec, then possibly something else is wrong with
your system and more investigation is needed.
From: Alastair Reynolds alastair@hpqtdxa.sqf.hp.com
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 1995 16:20:54 BST
Subject: Electric petrol pumps
Hi,
I have a 1966 SType that I am trying to get on the road for the summers
activities. My petrol pumps (two of them) click away even when the engine is
not started, even after the float chambers are full. There is no leaks in the
carburetors. Assuming the problem is the non return valves in the pumps, what
is an acceptable rate or tick. Mine go at once per second with no output.
The pumps are original (29 years old) what do you think? New valves and
diaphram cost 25 pounds each, new pumps cost 40 each!
\|/
(@ @) ###
oOO (_) OOo
-----------------ow!---------------------------------------------*
| | Alastair Reynolds |
| | R&D Department |
| | Telecoms Test Division |
| ######## / ######### | Queensferry Telecoms Operation |
| ####### / ####### | Hewlett-Packard Ltd. |
| ###### /__ ___ ###### | Station Road, |
| ##### / / / / ##### | South Queensferry |
| ##### / / /__/ ##### | West Lothian EH30 9TG. |
| ###### / ###### | SCOTLAND |
| ####### / ####### | Phone: +44 31 331 7503 |
| ######## / ######### | Telnet (31) 32503 |
| | Email: alastair@hpsqf.sqf.hp.com |
| | FAX : +44 31 331 7488 |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------*
From: nick@oslonett.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 16:15:38 -0100
Subject: Fuel pump woes
Well, today I had another crack at my faulty fuel supply again.
Regular readers with good memory may recall my mentioning this
as far back as last June, when I bought the car. In a few words
the problem is that the right hand side fuel tank does not
deliver fuel. When I bought the car the fuel pump for this tank
was missing, so I bought a new one. After installation I would
get fuel for about 5 minutes and then it would die on me. I
had previously put this down to gunk in the tank or something
along those lines. Well, todays experimentation points the
finger at the pump, if my reasoning is correct.
What I have determined that both pumps get their rightful
electricity and I have emptied and hosed out the suspected
gunky tank. My next step was to connect the fuel line from
the known good tank to the suspected faulty pump, same
symptoms as previously. I’ll try to fill up the suspicious
tank tomorrow and connect the known good pump to it, should
make things clear.
So, final question, does anyone know what sort of warranty
there is on an SU fuel pump? Do I have a reasonable chance
of exchanging it? It has after all taken me about 9 months
to determine that it may be faulty grin
Anyhow, the list has been a bit quiet recently so I thought
I’d just post this
Nick
<< Nick Johannessen ‘Grace, space and pace’ Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 >>
A Jaguar WWW-site Inactive web <<
End of jag-lovers-digest V1 #7