jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 30 March 1995 Volume 01 : Number 008----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Wood David.Wood@durham.ac.uk
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 1995 17:09:51 +0100 (BST)
Subject: Re: Electric petrol pumps
Alistair,
What do you mean when you say the pumps ‘click’? Mine (on an 85 XJ6)
have a constant whirring sound (similar to the electric aerial motor but
not as loud) even if the engine has not started. Do I have a similar
problem to yours - it just manifests itself in different ways because of
the different vintages associated with the pumps?
Cheers,
Dave Wood.
From: Kirby Palm palmk@freenet.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 1995 11:41:36 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Majordomo
Aaargh! Sending a “who jag-lovers” command to the majordomo results in a
list of only the members’ e-mail addresses – no names, what cars they own,
etc. Seems a poor substitute for the list we had been getting from Scott.
Opinions? Is the majordomo output adequate, or do we need to do
something? If so, what? Can we keep a list of members on the FTP site?
If we do decide on an FTP site list, I would like to see it even MORE
involved than Scott’s list was. Perhaps a little background. Might even
ask each member to post their own intro for inclusion.
— Kirbert
- Palm’s Postulate: If anything is to be accomplished, *
-
some rules must be broken. *
| Kirby Palm, P.E. |
| palmk@freenet.tlh.fl.us |
---------------------------
From: “Graham, Tom D.” UCISTDG@cis.unocal.com
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 95 09:08:00 PST
Subject: FW: Fuel pump woes
Hi Nick & Chaps-
Plz see below-
From: owner-jag-lovers
To: jag-lovers
Subject: Fuel pump woes
Date: Tuesday, March 28, 1995 4:15PM
Well, today I had another crack at my faulty fuel supply again.
Regular readers with good memory may recall my mentioning this
What I have determined that both pumps get their rightful
electricity and I have emptied and hosed out the suspected
^^^^^^^^^^^
Well, how about some basic electricity 101 today? How did you measure the
electricity ??? With a volt meter and you saw 12 volts across the leads???
This is a good basic first test, it tells you if you have a broken wire.
But it doesn’t tell you if the circuit has high resistance (like a
bad/corroded connector) which limits the current (amp) flow through the load
(fuel pump). Suggest you do this voltage measurement again with a load
across the fuel pump wires. How much load??? I don’t know, how many amps
does the fuel pump require/draw??? I’ll take a guess, put a 10 ohm, 10
watt, resistor across the wires, this then will draw around 1 amp. Then do
you still see 12 volts across this resistor? (It will get very hot, be
careful). If yes, then I’d bet on a bad pump. If no, then you have a
circuit/wiring problem.
BTW, skipping electricity 101, another perhaps simpler check would be to
hook the wires from the good fuel pump to the suspect one. Now does it
work?
Cherio - Tom
From: nick@oslonett.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 18:02:56 -0100
Subject: Re: Electric petrol pumps
In article Pine.SOL.3.91-941213.950329170740.10024A-100000@deneb.dur.ac.uk, Wood David.Wood@durham.ac.uk wrote:
| Alistair,
|
| What do you mean when you say the pumps ‘click’? Mine (on an 85 XJ6)
| have a constant whirring sound (similar to the electric aerial motor but
| not as loud) even if the engine has not started. Do I have a similar
| problem to yours - it just manifests itself in different ways because of
| the different vintages associated with the pumps?
By the sound of it I have the same clicking as Alistair, on
both my working and presumably non-working pump. I have not
been able to find any pattern in the clicking though.
Nick
<< Nick Johannessen ‘Grace, space and pace’ Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 >>
A Jaguar WWW-site Inactive web <<
From: nick@oslonett.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 18:25:07 -0100
Subject: Re: Majordomo
Kirby wrote:
| Aaargh! Sending a “who jag-lovers” command to the majordomo results in a
| list of only the members’ e-mail addresses – no names, what cars they own,
| etc. Seems a poor substitute for the list we had been getting from Scott.
Kirby, I have been meaning to write something with regards to
this for a couple of weeks now. The Majordomo output is much
less satisfactory than the survey Scott put together.
| Opinions? Is the majordomo output adequate, or do we need to do
| something? If so, what? Can we keep a list of members on the FTP site?
I was going to suggest a member-list on the web-site, with the
possibility of people having a picture of themself and their
car(s) if they wanted to. If people mail me photos I am only
happy to scan them.
| If we do decide on an FTP site list, I would like to see it even MORE
| involved than Scott’s list was. Perhaps a little background. Might even
| ask each member to post their own intro for inclusion.
The problem with this is that there are relatively few members
that are as involved as the “hard-core”. Seeing how few regular
posters there are it is hard to imagine that the list is well
over 200 strong at the moment… By all means ask people to
post a few words about themselves, I’ll be surprised if more
than 25 reply. I’ll be full of joy if I am proven wrong tho 
Nick, send your photos to me at Jongsvingen 10, 1300 Sandvika, Norway
<< Nick Johannessen ‘Grace, space and pace’ Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 >>
A Jaguar WWW-site Inactive web <<
From: nick@oslonett.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 18:41:40 -0100
Subject: Re: FW: Fuel pump woes
In article 2F799426@courier, “Graham, Tom D.” UCISTDG@cis.unocal.com wrote:
|
| Hi Nick & Chaps-
| Plz see below- |
|---|
| >What I have determined that both pumps get their rightful |
| >electricity and I have emptied and hosed out the suspected |
| ^^^^^^^^^^^ |
| [for brewity electricity 101 deleted] |
| BTW, skipping electricity 101, another perhaps simpler check would be to |
| hook the wires from the good fuel pump to the suspect one. Now does it |
| work? |
No. Tried it, the good pump still works and the “bad” pump
still doesn’t hold out any longer.
Nick
<< Nick Johannessen ‘Grace, space and pace’ Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 >>
A Jaguar WWW-site Inactive web <<
From: border@nas.nasa.gov (Ryan A. Border)
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 1995 10:00:30 -0800
Subject: Tilting Jags
Since I happen to have my Hemmings here at work today :-), here’s
some info for North American tilting comapanies:
Accessable Systems, Inc.
440 Matson Rd
Jonesborough, TN 37659
(615) 928-3996
They offer a product called “The Bottoms Up” lift (a big jig that looks like
you can rotate the car 360 degrees, in both stationary and movable models)
and the “MPS Auto Cradle”- which is hard to make out in the picture.
Liqui Technics
119 East Quail Trail
Covey Creek
Lewes, DE 19958
(302) 645-4819 or FAX (302) 645-4819
They make the “Liqui Vehicle Tilter”. From the ad
“Any auto/van/small-truck up to 6800 lbs can be tilted at an angle up to 90o”
“Tilter weighs only 136 lbs”
Apparently, you use a drill to lift the vehicle with this one.
Both of the above show complete cars mounted on the jigs.
I’m sure either company would be “happy” to send you their
sales literature
- Ryan A. Border border@nas.nasa.gov, border@cray.com *
- Cray Research Inc., On Site Applications Analyst 415-604-4633 *
- Numerical Aerodynamic Simulation Facility, NASA Ames. o__ o__ *
- Never trust someone who can count to 1023 on their fingers. .>/-.>/’ *
- NAS Staff Page Index ( ) -–()…
===============================================================================
From: Jgoring1@aol.com
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 1995 13:32:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Tilting Jags
My 65 S-type tilts all by itself. I had always attributed this to bad
springs and hadnt seen it as a feature. Guess I’m just ahead of the times…
- -Jim
From: nick@oslonett.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 20:08:08 -0100
Subject: Missing member?
Reading through the archives it struck me that we didn’t
hear much from Mike Horan after he had is accident. Does
anyone know how he is getting on?
Nick
<< Nick Johannessen ‘Grace, space and pace’ Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 >>
A Jaguar WWW-site Inactive web <<
From: capitol!gray@uunet.uu.net (John Gray)
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 95 14:23:03 EST
Subject: Re: Electric petrol pumps
At 06:02 PM 3/28/95 -0100, uunet!oslonett.no!nick wrote:
In article
Pine.SOL.3.91-941213.950329170740.10024A-100000@deneb.dur.ac.uk, Wood
David.Wood@durham.ac.uk wrote:
| Alistair,
|
| What do you mean when you say the pumps ‘click’? Mine (on an 85 XJ6)
| have a constant whirring sound (similar to the electric aerial motor but
| not as loud) even if the engine has not started. Do I have a similar
| problem to yours - it just manifests itself in different ways because of
| the different vintages associated with the pumps?By the sound of it I have the same clicking as Alistair, on
both my working and presumably non-working pump. I have not
been able to find any pattern in the clicking though.Nick
<< Nick Johannessen ‘Grace, space and pace’ Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 >>
A Jaguar WWW-site Inactive web <<
Thought I’d jump in and try and help here. The clicking pumps are SU non
fuel injected ones. They are suppossed to click when running, the noise is
the contact breakers (beneath the black circular cap. The whirring pumps are
much higher pressure to serve the FI.
The “clickers” often suffer from sticking points, these can be cleaned and
rest like distributor points.
John
From: nick@oslonett.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Tue, 28 Mar 1995 21:19:29 -0100
Subject: Re: 2.9 Motor in XJ40
“Mike Cogswell” M.Cogswell@zds.com wrote:
|
| Now this sounds interesting!!!
|
| You are saying that people are building DOHC, 48 valve V-12s by mating
| two AJ-6 cylinder heads to the V-12 block?
|
| I guess intake and exhaust manifold problems can be overcome, but what
| about the cam drive? I would think that coming up with a drive and
| appropriate covers would make this a very expensive project. Does
| anyone have any references to articles on this type of project?
Jaguar World Vol 5 Number 4 March/April 1993:
Sovereign Motors, of Santa Rosa, California make (made?) a
640hp, 48 valve, four-cam Jaguar V12. Two 4.0 litre late-model
Jag four-valve heads are used. They charge(d) around 45.000 dollars
for a complete engine gasp
Pretty spiffy conversion, some nice pix in the magazine of the
engine and the E-type demonstrator. If anyone is interested I
could scan it and stick it on the web-site tomorrow.
Nick, who knew he had seen this engine in Jaguar World and
flipped through all his magazine untill he found it,
in the second to last one… of 25?
<< Nick Johannessen ‘Grace, space and pace’ Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 >>
A Jaguar WWW-site Inactive web <<
From: “Mike Cogswell” M.Cogswell@zds.com
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 95 16:50:31 EDT
Subject: Re[2]: 2.9 Motor in XJ40
Now I'm sorry I asked!
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: 2.9 Motor in XJ40
Author: nick@oslonett.no at INTERNET
Date: 03/29/95 03:32 PM
Sovereign Motors, of Santa Rosa, California make (made?) a
640hp, 48 valve, four-cam Jaguar V12. Two 4.0 litre late-model
Jag four-valve heads are used. They charge(d) around 45.000 dollars
for a complete engine gasp
<< Nick Johannessen ‘Grace, space and pace’ Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 >>
A Jaguar WWW-site Inactive web <<
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 1995 15:42:57 -0600
Subject: XJ6 7" headlights
I have been told that some European models of the XJ6 had 7" headlights in
the outside set. So far I have been unable to confirm this.
If it is so, I would like to aquire drawings of the way they were mounted at
the least. I would realy like to find a set of hardware that I could
purchase at a reasonable price. I want to mount a pair of 7" halogen
lights, that I have, on my 1982 XJ6.
If anyone has pictures from an owners manual, or something simular I could
sure use a copy of them.
Jim
==============================================================
|| There is always an Econoline Van rolling to gig somewhere. ||
From: “Rob Reilly” reilly@admail.fnal.gov
Date: 29 Mar 1995 16:57:17 -0600
Subject: Transistorized SU Fuel Pump
Subject: Time:11:59 AM
OFFICE MEMO Transistorized SU Fuel Pump Date:3/29/95
Hey, just in time for Alastair and Nick, I was putting together a report on
how I rebuilt my Mark V fuel pump with a modification.
First, for Dave, your injected car has a different kind of pump from the
carburetted cars. SU pumps on carburetted cars have an electromagnet, a
diaphragm and a set of points. The steel disc on the diapragm is what clicks.
Yours is an electric motor which I think should whirr only when the engine
is either cranking or running. If the engine is shut off or if after cranking
it fails to start, and the pump keeps whirring, I believe that would indicate
a problem in the pump relay or the air flow sensor.
I just finished rebuilding the original pump for my '50 Mark V last week, and
this time I added a transistor and a diode according to a scheme published by
the Classic Jaguar Association in July '89 and Jan '90. They got it from the
Vintage MG folks. Most of your SU pumps will have a capacitor which sorta
protects the points for awhile but eventually they burn out. My MkV didn’t
even have a capacitor, so the points really arced something fierce.
Apparently the MG mod lets the transistor do the coil switching work, so the
points last indefinitely, no more tapping the pump with a hammer or slamming
the car door to get it going again.
From Radio Shack or another electronics supplier you need:
one transistor…for negative ground get a TIP 32 PNP
…for positive ground get a TIP 31 NPN
one diode…200V 1A microminiature type 1N4003…same for either ground
(or an alternative diode 1N4002 can be used)
Get these parts from one of the aftermarket Jag parts suppliers.
One contact points set and one diaphragm for a single pump, or two for a
double pumper.
You might need: one-way valve discs (some are plastic, and they do break)
Notes: get the double contact type points, not the single. There are two
lengths for the diaphragm stem, Mark V is the longer one, I think XJ6 should
be the shorter one.
Procedure: Remove six screws around diaphragm and gently peel it off the
aluminum body. This contact face is a sealing surface, so don’t gouge it with
a screwdriver like I did my first time. Clean the crud out of the body and
check your one way valves (a gozzinta and a gozzoutta). You can push up on
the diaphragm to see the toggling action of the points. Note how much the
stem is screwed into the center pivot of the points, and try to duplicate
with the new diaphragm, but you don’t have to be super accurate about that.
The diaphragm has either a plastic centering spider or 11 centering brass
discs to center it in the cast iron coil body. Unscrew diaphragm from old
points, replace points and screw in new diaphragm. Push on the diaphragm to
check toggling action of the points and bend the tab to adjust the travel of
the moving points (I found a couple of new sets of points didn’t flip over
right, had to bend the coil spring a bit). Bend and/or adjust the stationary
points to get a good contact with the moving points. Good contact and good
separation is what you’re after. Put in centering spider or discs, put fuel
sealant on contact faces, and tighten down six screws diagonally and
uniformly. Note the small drainhole in the coil body is supposed to point
downwards. Bench test it with jumper leads from your battery, it should
rattle away at about 3 or 4 cycles per second. Installed, it should fill up
the carb bowls and then slow down to like one click every two to ten seconds.
At this point your pump is just as good as it ever was…
Now for the mod:
From this moment it becomes either a positive or negative ground only pump,
so decide which you want.
First disconnect the one coil wire from the blade contact point small fixing
screw, and remove the capacitor. The other coil wire is your 12V input, and
stays as is.
The transistor has a mounting tab which I drilled out to fit on one of the
two existing large mounting screws for the bakelite bridge. Use either one
you like, since you won’t be reinstalling the capacitor.
Note the transistor has an emitter, a base, and a collector. Regardless of
whether you are doing a PNP for negative ground or an NPN for positive
ground, the connections are the same.
The collector is grounded to the coil body, as is the wire from the flipover
contact points.
The base terminal is soldered to a wire which connects to the small screw
which holds the blade contacts.
The emitter is soldered to the coil wire that was removed from the small
screw above.
Now for the diode: For both positive and negative ground the diode is
soldered between the emitter-to-coil joint and ground, but in opposite
directions. The forward direction was shown on the package I bought, looks
like an arrow running into a wall.
For negative ground (earth): the diode forward direction is from ground to
the emitter.
For positive ground: the diode forward direction is from the emitter to
ground.
The result is a pump that rattles away with not a bit of visible arcing and
sparking at the points.
Piece of cake, right?
Rob
From: Zach65@aol.com
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 1995 18:29:04 -0500
Subject: RE: Petrol Pump Clicking “Patterns”
An inquiry was made about fuel pump clicking patterns on a non-FI car. Fuel
pump “clicking” on E-Type coupes and 2+2’s is quite noticeable, as they are
in the back of the load area, just a few feet from the front seats – e.g.,
right there with you.
My experience has been that they (referring to my coupe and my friend’s 2+2)
typically click for 5 to 10 seconds or so when first turning the key to on,
and click at a rate that is inversely proportional to engine speed/load –
e.g., if the engine is using a lot of fuel, the pump needs to cycle on and
off less frequently.
I have, twice in the last two years or so, had the pump click like mad on a
hot day (I assume from something along the lines of vapor lock or something
of that ilk), but the clicking rate is generally more like once or twice per
second for the afore-mentioned startup period.
- – Kevin Williams (glad to finally be able to contribute something that is
(hopefully) helpful, as opposed to just asking obsucre and inane questions)
'69 E Type
'85 XJ6 VDP
lotsa British bikes
whole lotta patience
From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@compuserve.com
Date: 29 Mar 95 19:42:34 EST
Subject: XJ fuel problems
Re the tank that won’t supply fuel: This was not a pump problem, but I used to
have a 1975 XJ Coupe V12. At one stage, we had problems with fuel in one tank.
When you switched suppy to that tank, there never seemed to be enough fuel
available. Problem turned out to be that the air vent to the tank had blocked,
and the fuel tank was sucked in by the pump, partly collapsing it! You could
never fill that tank and it had to be replaced.
Re S type fuel pump / Alastair Reynolds: After you rebuld (or whatever) the
pump/s, tape over the cap/body joint to prevent water/gunk entry. The pumps
last longer that way.
From: DSB77@aol.com
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 1995 20:13:55 -0500
Subject: Walter Mitty Vintage Race-Atlant
The 1995 Watler Mitty vintage race at Road Atlanta will take place April 22
and 23. Road Atlanta is located East of Gainesville, Georgia.
This race attracts exotic cars from all over the United States and from some o
ther countries. You will see rare Jaguars, Ferrarris, Porsches and other
interestion street and race cars from private collections and racing teams.
You will not regret the trip.
Doug Bohannon
dsb77@aol.com
1957 Jaguar D-Type Replica
1962 MGB Vintage Race Car
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 95 17:29:52 PST
Subject: XJ fuel problems (fwd)
| Re the tank that won’t supply fuel: This was not a pump problem, but I used to
| have a 1975 XJ Coupe V12. At one stage, we had problems with fuel in one tank.
| When you switched suppy to that tank, there never seemed to be enough fuel
| available. Problem turned out to be that the air vent to the tank had blocked,
| and the fuel tank was sucked in by the pump, partly collapsing it! You could
| never fill that tank and it had to be replaced.
| Re S type fuel pump / Alastair Reynolds: After you rebuld (or whatever) the
| pump/s, tape over the cap/body joint to prevent water/gunk entry. The pumps
| last longer that way.
|
I’m wondering what is the symptom that you experience when you have
fuel problems (e.g. bad fuel pump, clogged fuel line). Does the car
sputter and die, or just dies immediately? How do you tell that the problem
is the fuel system and not the ignition? What happens after you re-start
the car?
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: KNOWLESB@delphi.com
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 1995 21:21:17 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Parts books
Dear list:
Dear list:
On march 27, Steven A. DuChene wrote:
- ---------snip-------
I once asked why parts manuals and service manuals from Porsche weren’t
available on a CD-ROM rather than those damn microfiche things and the reply
was,
“that wouldn’t work”… as far as an index what are we talking about? Part
No. to part
name to page number?
The reason that most parts books are on microfiche instead of magnetic media
storage is that the alternate storage schemes for this sort of thing were well
under way in the early '70s, when floppies were 8" diameter and very expensive,
and personal/small business use of computers was nonexistent.
Fiche replace parts books because of cost. To reduce the book to fiche, you
rip it up and take pictures of the individual pages, low cost, medium tech. To
go straight to electronic media would require someone manually type the data
into the computer, and do without the drawings.
Additionally, 48x fiche cards provide higher information density storage than
electronic media, and the end user can access it with a reader/printer, less
expensive than a computer, and very low tech and repairable.
The next step along in this was to have been ultra-fiche, 200x microfiche,
which were at least feasible to produce, though rather a neat trick, but it all
came apart on the simple fact that there was never even proposed an economical
reader-printer for ultra fiche. I once had an entire King James bible on
ultra-fiche, the whole thing was the size of one common postage stamp. Problem
was, you needed a transmission microscope to read it, and forget printing it.
Boringly,
Brian Knowles
knowlesb@delphi.com
From: DSB77@aol.com
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 1995 22:00:07 -0500
Subject: Jag Club Events
I passed the 10,000 mile mark on my Jaguar D-Type replica last weekend.
Saturday, some of our club members (Suncoast Jaguar Club) and I went to the
All British Car Day at Mead Gardens in Winter Park, FL.
Sunday, we went to a brunch in Sarasota, organized by David Hinton of Twin
Cams Sportscars. David, a member of our club, is preparing a Jaguar XK 120 (I
think) for it’s fourth run in La Carrera Pan America, a race from southern
Mexico to southern Texas. The race takes place toward the end of October.
Our next events will be the Walter Mitty vintage race at Road Atlanta in
April and a visit to a private Jaguar collection in central Florida in May.
I was returning home from Sarasota on I-75 N when I passed the 10K mark while
running down a late model Mazda RX7.
Doug Bohannon
dsb77@aol.com
1957 Jaguar D-Type Replica
1964 MGB Vintage Race Car
From: “Ken Mackie” kmackie@cnw06.coles.com.au
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 1995 13:31:35 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ fuel problems
Re the tank that won’t supply fuel: This was not a pump problem, but I used to
have a 1975 XJ Coupe V12. At one stage, we had problems with fuel in one tank.
When you switched suppy to that tank, there never seemed to be enough fuel
available. Problem turned out to be that the air vent to the tank had blocked,
and the fuel tank was sucked in by the pump, partly collapsing it! You could
never fill that tank and it had to be replaced.
Re S type fuel pump / Alastair Reynolds: After you rebuld (or whatever) the
pump/s, tape over the cap/body joint to prevent water/gunk entry. The pumps
last longer that way.
Fantasic stuff!!! My 1974 XJ12L died on the way home on 27/3. I’d had
trouble with my left hand pump refusing it work since Xmas. Due to its
age (orginal) I thought I’d get around to replacing it next service in
May. Well, as I said, I was driving home and the car just stalled while
travelling fast down the freeway. I was using the right hand pump.
Anyway, I’II change the fuel filter, clean out both tanks, flush the
pipes and buy a reconditioned pump this Saturday. My question is:
how much pressure should the petrol pump squirt petrol out passed the
return valve? I removed the pipe returning the petrol back to the tank
from the engine bay, and turned on the pump. nothing much came out.
I could easly hold my finger over the pipe and contain the fuel. I have
the feeling that both pumps are full of shit?
Ken
.---. .----------- Ken Mackie
/ \ __ / ------ Coles Myer Ltd Level 1, Module 11
/ / \( )/ ----- 800 Toorak Road,
////// ’ / --- Tooronga, //// / // : : --- Victoria, Australia 3146 // / / / '–
// //…\
----UU----UU-------------------------------------------------
'//||\` kmackie@coles.com.au +61 3 829 5437
‘’``
End of jag-lovers-digest V1 #8