jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 1 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 128----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 31 May 1996 09:40:32 -0700
Subject: [Fwd: Re: XJ40: Brake Accumulator]
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Date: Fri, 31 May 1996 09:38:51 -0700
From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com
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To: Quang Ngo qlogic!ngo@netcom.com
Subject: Re: XJ40: Brake Accumulator
References: Pine.3.05.1.9605301256.A17307-b100000@opus
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For you novices out there, be very careful replacing the accumulator. If you make a mistake on your diagnosis
you could seriously injure yourself. Before you remove the accumulator pump the brakes until they are rock
hard, pump them 30 times for insurance. Use an oil filter wrench on the accumulator sphere. Never, never
put anything between the two accumulator switches. You can, and will damage them doing this, they aren’t
cheap either. Be sure to hold the accumulator body with a large pair of channel locks being careful to grab
the rear part of the body. This will anchor the body solidly. Be very careful not to damage the hydraulic
line to the accumulator, you don’t want to try to replace one of these.
Unless you understand what you are doing some jobs are better left for a mechanic. I was originally asked for
help on this job and refused to answer. When you buy a used car at least take it to a mechanic to see what it
needs, this list is not a substitute for knowledgeable mechanical repair!!!
Before the installation procedure I went to a local dealer and picked up a
bottle of mineral oil to refill since it will drain out when the
accumulator is removed. Then here’s how I did it:
- unplug the electrical wire (low break pressure sensor)
- use 11mm wrench and 12mm socket wrench to remove the accumulator and
the 2 sensors (attached to the accumulator as one unit)- use a clam to hold the accumulator
- use a wrench or something similar and place it between the 2 sensors
then turn it loose- replace the new accumulator
- reinstall it and refill the mineral oil
I don’t know about how much torque it needs; I just turned it until I
thought it was tight enough.Hope this helps,
-Quang (ngo@qlogic.com)
From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu
Date: Fri, 31 May 1996 13:10:31 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Air pump XJ-6
And finally: anybody know, off hand, the bearing used in the emission air
pump? This one sounds like an animal with tail caught in the belts!
Do you already know it is the bearing that is at fault here? The
pumps have blades in them that ride in a drum and have a sort of
cam action that is supposed to keep them from scraping the sides
of the housing too much. If anything went wrong there it would
make a terrible racket. Anyway, I don’t know the bearing number
but I know the outboard drum bearing is an unusual roller
bearing set which, upon looking at it I thought I’m glad I
don’t have to find the replacement for that. Incidentally,
if you took the pump apart and accidentally forgot to put those
blades back in, the pump would turn into an idler pulley that
looks like an air pump. It wouldn’t function as an air pump
anymore, but your car would perform better and maybe it would
fix the noise you are hearing.
Thomas E. Alberts
1987 XJ-S
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Fri, 31 May 96 10:14:00 PDT
Subject: Re: XJ40 Oil Filter, K&N air filter (fwd)
|
| Hi Roger:
| Did you still have to lift the car to change the oil filter? I was
| wondering also about getting oil filters for the XJ40.
No. I loosened it and spinned it off from the top, but slipped it out
down the bottom.
The best oil-filter setup I’ve seen is on the BMW’s. On my wife’s
`92 325, the oil filter is right in front of you when you lift the hood.
| Let me give you a tip: replace your regular air filter with a K&N
| filter, it costs $40. but you never have to buy another again, just
| wash it and oil it. I will improve your airflow, hence performance.
| That is the first thing I do with any car I get.
|
Somehow, I’m just very skeptical about the performance benefits of a
K&N air filter. After all, why can’t Jag design an air filter to match
it? Anyone else care to comment?
|
| Carlos Chou
| shotclay@gnn.com
| 89 XJ40
|
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: Brent Eagling brent@filoli.com
Date: Fri, 31 May 96 10:54:10 -0700
Subject: XKE Factory Hardtop For Sale
I currently own a factory hardtop from a 1968 E-type. It’s in great
condition (headliner, seals, etc)…
Also for sale:
XK150 Tonneau cover
Rt. Front Fender, turn signal assembly (rt front), and Chrome trim for E-type
20 Sets of Front caliper pistons for 4.2 jags (also fits E-type…I
think)
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Fri, 31 May 96 10:58:21 PDT
Subject: Re: SplitFire Spark Plugs
A friend of mine told me that SplitFire spark plugs are really good. He
means they produce more power than regular spark plugs. Is this true?
Should I put them in my 89 XJ40? He claims that his Mazda saves gas using
these spark plugs. Each costs about $6.bye,
- -Quang (ngo@qlogic.com)
I’ve heard just the contrary, that the SplitFire plugs don’t offer any
advantage.
Especially, on the XJ40, I’d stay with original equipment if possible.
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Fri, 31 May 1996 13:00:59 -0500
Subject: Long Tie Rods?
Are you talking about the stub axle? I dont think you mean the tie rods as
they are no where near the grease caps. I sure as hell wouldnt start
cutting on the tie rods and I would be very carefull about cutting on the
stub axles.
As to shimming the wheel out, it realy isnt dangerous. they do it on race
cars all the time to get the offset legal and a race car is realy under much
more stress than your stree jag.
Jim
===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"
John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: “Richard King” kingr@sabc.co.za
Date: Fri, 31 May 1996 18:29:45 +0200
Subject: Automotive Aux Lighting FAQ
http://www-1.openmarket.com/personal/caloccia/lr/lighting.faq.html
Automotive Auxiliary Lighting FAQ
From: HDR64@aol.com
Date: Fri, 31 May 1996 15:12:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Air pump XJ-6
Incidentally, the air pumps for the XJ6 are quite inexpensive…only about
$35 exchange for a remanufactured unit. Sometimes you have to change bolts
out…some were metric some sae.
Regards,
Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax
From: nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu (Nikolai Chitaev)
Date: Thu, 30 May 1996 16:32:25 -0600
Subject: RE: XKE Fuel
Finally I can help out a bit here…
Nikolai asks:
<I`m confused here.
<I thought that unleaded fuel was designated for cat.converters only, since
<the lead in exhaust would poison converters, but that it has to do with
<valve seats wear…?
Yes about the cat converter. But you see, lead is in the fuel naturally, and
it is expensive to remove it. It is removed to get lead out of the atmosphere,
hence a health issue. But the plot thickens…
The leading also lubricates the upper cylinder area which includes valves,
guides, & valve seats. Without the lead, the valve seats burn, along with the
valves where they seat along the seats. So, any car not designed with hardened
vlaves, stems and seats will need valve jobs sooner.
That’s what we are screaming about. Our high performance older cars wear out
valves, stem guides and heads (or seats) sooner since we are forced touse the
newer fuels without lead.
Nice, subtile way to get our cars off the road, ehh?
LLoyd - and I still have never had to buy a car with a cat converter -yet-
… or that ugly third eye level stop light either…
From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu
Date: Fri, 31 May 1996 16:06:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: V-12 oil pump
I am trying to locate an oil pump or pump gear set for 1987
XJ-S. The orignal part number is C38453 or C40177. Recently
that part was officially superceeded by EBC3163 which is the
pump for 1992 on. EBC3163 is supposed to fit the older engines
but some pieces are required to adapt it. Some people I’ve
spoken to (that are looking right at the pump) are skeptical
that the pump can be used at all on my car. Others are
confident that it will work as Jaguar says. This pump is
at least twice as expensive as tha earlier version, and the
adapter (they call it a pump collar) is $45 plus some additional
bolts are required. I’ve tried all the obvious places, Welsh,
SICP, XKs unlimited, etc. and can only find the new pumps.
If anyone has one new or used and in tolerance they care to
part with, please advise. Also any insights about what
exactly is happening here, experience with using the new
pump on older engines, etc would be appreciated. I find
it amazing that the older pump is already unavailable when
it was last used in new cars in 1991!
Thomas E. ALberts
1987 XJ-S
From: david_gruber@fmc.com (DAVID GRUBER)
Date: Fri, 31 May 1996 14:46:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Long Tie Rods?
Jim -
Thanks for the reply.
I would be very carefull about cutting on the stub axles.
Yes, you’re right - the stub axles (not the tie rods). Although it looks like
they COULD be cut and still have enough room for the lock nuts, I’d sure had to
mess one up.
As to shimming the wheel out, it realy isnt dangerous. they do it on race
cars all the time to get the offset legal and a race car is realy under much
more stress than your street jag.
Are there devices designed for such a purpose or can I just use sufficiently
thick nuts or washers that fit over the lugs?
Many thanks,
Dave
From: Julio Loza julio@synerdyne.com
Date: Fri, 31 May 1996 15:21:19 -0700
Subject: Radiator Fan Problem ( 1984 4.2L XJ6 )
Just recently I’ve noticed that my radiator fan ( the one driven by the =
water pump ) is making
a “whooshing” noise when engine is accelerating or revving above idle. =
It sounds as if it is
sucking in a lot more air than normal. Could this be bad water pump or =
fan? I haven’t observed the problem long enough but it seemed to only =
occur when the car was warm. That is, I did not notice the problem when =
the engine was still cold. Also, the car is not overheating and is =
operating within normal temperatures. I’ve also noticed a small leak =
on the exhaust manifold that I’ll be fixing this weekend, but I don’t =
think this sound comes from there. Is there a way I can pinpoint the =
problem? Any ideas? =20
Thanks,
Julio Loza
From: per@quantum.ece.ucsb.edu (Per Stenius)
Date: Fri, 31 May 96 15:45:09 PDT
Subject: XJ12 manual
I was just browsing through the book list at
http://www.bookspeed.co.uk/cars/bk_jagst.htm
and they had XJ12 Ser.1/2 manuals at ~ GBP 30. I recall someone was looking
for these?
Per Stenius (http://www.engineering.ucsb.edu/~pstenius/)
Email: per@quantum.ece.ucsb.edu
From: “Peter W. Karpien” 100306.3514@compuserve.com
Date: 31 May 96 18:46:48 EDT
Subject: Update on Plugged Exhaust and Air rail
Thanks to those who responded to my 85 XJ6 air rail/exhaust problem.
According to the manager at one of our local Midas shops, the front cat was
partially plugged.
I took the cat of the car before I took it their hoping to get an honest
diagnosis.
The fellow there said one didn’t really need two cats and that it would be okay
to punch out the
insides. I was thinking of doing this anyway; all that heat inside the engine
bay is just
bad.
I will be taking the second cat to them tomorrow to see what they say. They
have a replacement in
stock for about $370. I’m not sure if I’ll get it from them, but considering
the mufflers are welded
to the cat pipes it may be the easiest thing to do.
Any more thoughts are of course welcome.
- -Peter
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Fri, 31 May 1996 13:00:59 -0500
Subject: Long Tie Rods?
I’m sure he meant the stub axel too;
<Are you talking about the stub axle? I dont think you mean the tie rods as
<As to shimming the wheel out, it realy isnt dangerous. they do it on race
Remember that if you shim it out you are adding a large amount of extra
torque to the wheel bearings. This causes premature wear.
To visualize this, imagine sitting in the left front seat. Imagine shimming
the wheel out one foot. Now the car is not sitting “down” on the wheel, but
supported by the torque as the wheel will want to turn clockwise. This puts a
lot of stress on wheel bearings and axles.
LLoyd
From: bill@wmspear.com (Bill Spear)
Date: Fri, 31 May 1996 14:48:24 -0900
Subject: leaded/unleadedFuel
It’s an interesting historical note and has always piqued my interest that
in the early 60’s, long before there was any talk about pollution or
special fuels, the American Oil Company (Amoco) offered unleaded gasoline
and advertised it stongly, especially to drivers of sports and luxury cars!
Not only this it worked. Their marketing people reported that the
sportscar crowd went way out of its way to get this fuel, hence the
marketing effort. I remember myself putting in that Gold Crown in my first
car in the loony hope that something good would happen. Anyone remember
this or know why?
Bill Spear bill@wmspear.com
227 7th Street. Juneau, Alaska 99801
907/586-2209 v 907/586-6858 f
Talismen, amulets and charms for an uncertain world.
http://www.carmelnet.com/spearpins
“We did Nebraska in seven and a half minutes today. I think that’s the best
way do Nebraska.”
SR-71 pilot
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 31 May 1996 20:21:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Splitfire Plugs Save Gas?
LLoyd:
However, I have heard that lower compression engines don’t wear out plugs as
fast. (zat true??)
Doubt if compression has much to do with it. However, it is true that
modern engines don’t use plugs nearly as fast. A large part of that is that
the modern ignition systems do a better job of providing a good voltage
while limiting current – and it’s current that erodes spark plug tips.
I’ve replaced the plugs in my HE (11.5:1 compression) once in 25,000 miles
or so, and there was nothing wrong with the ones that came out. I wouldn’t
be surprised if it’d go 100,000 miles without a plug change, especially if
pulled and regapped every now and then. Of course, taking them out and
regapping without simply replacing might be hard to bring oneself to do.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 31 May 1996 20:21:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Piston Specifications
Lauren E. Pratt:
Does this book give a discription or discussion of
compression height, what is it, how is it measured, and how is
it used to calculate compression ratio?
Definition: “Compression height” is the distance between the “piston crown”
(the flat surface of the top of the piston) and the centerline of the piston
pin.
To calculate compression ratio would require more info. “Compression ratio”
is the sum of the displacement of one cylinder plus the combustion chamber
volume divided by the combustion chamber volume alone. If the piston crown
shape remains unchanged, a change in compression height would have a
predictable effect on compression ratio by changing the combustion chamber
volume by the compression height change x the cylinder area.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Ken Redmond reddog39@popalex1.linknet.net
Date: Fri, 31 May 1996 20:24:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Radiator Fan Problem ( 1984 4.2L XJ6 )
Julio,
The first thing to check is to see if your fan clutch is
locked up. The fan clutch is designed to let the fan turn at a lower rpm
than the engine to reduce noise and increase cooling efficancy. With the
engine off, try to spin the fan blades by hand. You should feel some
resistance but it should turn smoothly. If it is very stiff or you cannot
turn it, you have a fan clutch that is not operating properly and is making
the fan turn a too high an rpm which causes the noise you describe.
At 03:21 PM 5/31/96 -0700, you wrote:
Just recently I’ve noticed that my radiator fan ( the one driven by the
water pump ) is making
a “whooshing” noise when engine is accelerating or revving above idle. It
sounds as if it is
sucking in a lot more air than normal. Could this be bad water pump or
fan? I haven’t observed the problem long enough but it seemed to only occur
when the car was warm. That is, I did not notice the problem when the
engine was still cold. Also, the car is not overheating and is operating
within normal temperatures. I’ve also noticed a small leak on the exhaust
manifold that I’ll be fixing this weekend, but I don’t think this sound
comes from there. Is there a way I can pinpoint the problem? Any ideas?Thanks,
Julio Loza
Ken Redmond
86 XJ-6III
105,000 miles
Where else can we have this much fun !!!
From: Ken Redmond reddog39@popalex1.linknet.net
Date: Fri, 31 May 1996 20:38:01 -0500
Subject: Re: SIII Temp. What’s Normal?
Larry,
My 85 XJ-6III runs between 90C and 95C on a hot day here in
Baton Rouge with the a/c on.I had asked this same question about 3 months
ago, and the vast majority of answers were in the LOWER green range of the
gauge. There is no reason for a Jag to have to run above 100C for any period
of time.
The important thing to consider is if this is a change from
how your system has operated in past summers. If so, it could be as simple
as your sending unit has changed sensitivity. I had a similar problem
once.Remember, when troubleshooting, start with the basics and look for
clues that will lead you to the correct solution. To many times people
overlook the obvious and assume the worst (water pump).Good luck!
At 06:27 PM 5/30/96 -0400, you wrote:
It’s between 93F and 96F outside here in the Dallas/Ft.Worth area every day
now. My '85 XJ-6 runs at 95-98 degrees with the air off, and about 105
degrees (mid green) with the air on. Comination of highway and residential
driving.Is this excessive? Got to drive about 400 miles this weekend and would like
to be reassured or cautioned.Larry Karpman
'85 XJ-6
Ken Redmond
86 XJ-6III
105,000 miles
Where else can we have this much fun !!!
From: jamesc@oasis.novia.net (jc)
Date: Fri, 31 May 1996 20:00:26 -0500
Subject: Looking for article
Looking for an early 1980’s Road and Track that featured a 1958 Lister as
the salon car. I spent several hours scanning microfilm at the library and
only got dizzy. I cant search by subject because it is too old. I would be
forever greatful if some could tell me year and month. Thanks JIM CANEDY
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Fri, 31 May 1996 22:14:01 -0400
Subject: E-type electrical questions
-
I have a Nardi steering wheel on my 1969 series 2 E-type. The horn button
on this car is on the tip of the turn signal lever. I would like to use the
horn button in the center of the steering wheel. Does anyone know how this
can be done? -
The ‘ignition’ idiot light does not work. I know that is is the light for
which all idiot lights are named, but if it is on my car, I want it to work.
Does anyone know where the sending unit for this light is located? Is it
part of the alternator, or something else I should be looking for?
Mike Frank
1969 Etype 2+2
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jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 1 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 129
From: Craig Burlingame burlingc@belnet.bellevue.k12.wa.us
Date: Fri, 31 May 1996 19:29:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Jaguar World Magazine
I quite agree Roger, I too experienced sticker shock at the magazine
rack. There I was all ready to buy the latest issue with a Series 1 XJ6
on the cover and I got a case of William Lyons thrifiness and couldn’t
quite bring myself to lay down $10 for a publication that just a couple
years ago sold for $ 4.75.
As consolation for myself I noticed the latest issue of Classic &
Thoroughbred magazine with a feature on the “Best British Cars of the
Decades”. Turns out the Series 1 XJ6 was their choice for most
signifigant British car of the '60s decade. The XK 120 was their choice
for the '40s decade to round out the Jaguar trophies.
The article was great for any enthusiasts of the the XJ6 and the
photography was supurb. They even used the recently restored car of Sir
William (a sable coloured Series 1 XJ6 sans radio) for the photo session
and even went so far as to arrange to place it in front of historic
Wappenbury Hall, the home of Sir William and Gretchen for so many years.
. . . and the best part, the magzine cost a mere $5.75 (a relative
bargain that even Sir William would have been proud of)
- -Craig Burlingame
'72 Series 1 XJ6
On Thu, 30 May 1996 rpeng@cadev6.intel.com wrote:
Anybody know what’s happening with Jaguar World Magazine? I mean,
the price seems to be going ever higher. Initially it was 6 dollar
something, then 7, and the last issue was approaching 10 dollars.
I like the last issue but couldn’t get myself to pay 10 bucks for it.It’s kind of like Jaguar cars. They’re getting more and more expensive
(although they take less and less time to make). Whatever happened
to value?–
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: Kroppe kroppe@mich.com
Date: Fri, 31 May 1996 22:34:55 -0400
Subject: XJ6 SI Final Drive
Greetings All -
A friend of mine has a SI XJ6 with the final drive on its way out.
I found a price of US$750 for a rebuilt unit from SICP. Does anyone
have a better (cheaper) alternative source and price?
The noise from his rear end (the car’s) is getting so bad he may be forced
to fill it with banana peels or ground beef! (Not kidding – it quiets
the diff down for the next owner!)
Thanks for any help.
B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Fri, 31 May 1996 23:07:26 -0400
Subject: Re: leaded/unleadedFuel
Bill:
Unleaded fuel is more expensive to manufacture than leaded fuel, because
it requires more petroleum. There is a logic, at least here in the States,
that more expensive is synonymous with better. Amoco Gold Crown had that
cachet of high cost which appealed to the luxo car owners of the day. It was
also known as ‘white gas’, implying cleanliness and perhaps a veiled racist
inference. Last of all, there are real mechanical benefits to running
unleaded: extended life for mufflers and spark plugs. Since Amoco was the
only brand offering unleaded, it was inevitable that unleaded users would
occasionally fill up with leaded when in unfamiliar neighborhoods. Since a
steady diet of leaded is not necessary to reduce valve seat recession, an
occasional tank of the common stuff would preseve the old valves. Imagine
the conversation: “Mr Goodwrench, I was away from home and couldn’t find
unleaded. Do I have to do anything to cleanse the motor?” “Hmm, probably not
a problem (chuckle), but let me check it out for you.”
Once again, I say use unleaded and deal with problems when and if they
appear. Less hassle, better for the environment, better for the car. I
remember the 60’s fondly. Although I proudly preserve the heritage, things
really are much better now.
Mike Frank
1969 Etype 2+2
At 02:48 PM 5/31/96 -0900, you wrote:
It’s an interesting historical note and has always piqued my interest that
in the early 60’s, long before there was any talk about pollution or
special fuels, the American Oil Company (Amoco) offered unleaded gasoline
and advertised it stongly, especially to drivers of sports and luxury cars!
Not only this it worked. Their marketing people reported that the
sportscar crowd went way out of its way to get this fuel, hence the
marketing effort. I remember myself putting in that Gold Crown in my first
car in the loony hope that something good would happen. Anyone remember
this or know why?Bill Spear bill@wmspear.com
227 7th Street. Juneau, Alaska 99801
907/586-2209 v 907/586-6858 fTalismen, amulets and charms for an uncertain world.
http://www.carmelnet.com/spearpins“We did Nebraska in seven and a half minutes today. I think that’s the best
way do Nebraska.”SR-71 pilot
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Fri, 31 May 1996 23:07:31 -0400
Subject: RE: XKE Fuel
Lloyd:
At 04:32 PM 5/30/96 -0600, you wrote:
Yes about the cat converter. But you see, lead is in the fuel naturally, and
it is expensive to remove it. It is removed to get lead out of the atmosphere,
Lead is absolutely not a natural component of petroleum. It was blended into
gasoline as an artificial means of raising octane. Gasoline is a complex mix
of petroleum distillates. The word ‘octane’ actually refers to one
particular chemical called, appropriately, Octane. The numbers we are so
familiar with represent the anti-detonation charateristics of a given blend
of gasoline, relative to pure Octane. Unleaded costs more because more
high-cost distillates need to be blended into the mixture to produce the
desired anti-knock properties. It is not a matter of lead being removed, but
rather a more expensive ingredient mixed in…
Mike Frank
1969 XKE 2+2
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Fri, 31 May 1996 23:07:43 -0400
Subject: Re:Fuel for E-type
Someone planned to research the level of lead in tradtional leaded gas. The
exact amount of lead would vary according to the quality of the petroleum
feedstock. Lower quality petroleum would require more lead to be brought to
spec. As a rule of thumb, leaded regular would have about .2 gram per US
gallon of tetraethyl lead. Leaded premium would have about .5 gram per US
gallon.
Question: what is Ethyl Corporation doing today?
Mike Frank
1969 E-type 2+2
From: ajbeale@squirrel.com.au (A.J. Beale)
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 1996 13:22:55 -0700
Subject: Re: SplitFire Spark Plugs
A friend of mine told me that SplitFire spark plugs are really good. He
means they produce more power than regular spark plugs. Is this true?
Should I put them in my 89 XJ40? He claims that his Mazda saves gas using
these spark plugs. Each costs about $6.
A spark plug can’t produce more power except by misfiring less often.
Having tried several “you beaut” spark plugs over the years, I finally came
to the conclusion that they added nothing except cost. Incidentally, do you
know that the workshop manual gives the plug gap for the 3.6 litre XJ40 as
.025 inches - very small for electronic ignition, but apparently not a
misprint. Alan.
From: rs@telerama.lm.com (Richard Shehab)
Date: Fri, 31 May 1996 23:58:58 -0400
Subject: Data Base Entry
Please enter this in your Database for Jaguar Lovers
Firstname Richard
Surname Shehab
Address 234 Park Entrance Drive
City/Town Pittsburgh
State/County PA
Zip/Postcode 15228
Country USA
Phone Nos etc
Home 412-343-6757
Office 412-828-9040
Fax ****
Email rs@terlerama.lm.com
http:// ****
Car 1 Jaguar
Model1 XJ6
Colour Green
Interior Beige
Year 1988
Mileage 105,000 Miles
Condition Excellent
From: mguthrie@cts.com (mario guthrie)
Date: Fri, 31 May 96 21:45:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: blown engine
I just blew the engine on my Jaguar. The dealer wants $8000.00 for a new
engine here in san diego california. Plus labor! Someone told me to drop a
V-8 in the auto for less money. Is this reasonable? Any information would be
appreciated!
Thanks
Mario
mario
From: Robert Hyndman bhyndman@niia.net
Date: Fri, 31 May 1996 23:50:50 -0500
Subject: unleaded/AMOCO
Bill Spear mentioned AMOCO offering unleaded fuel in the early 60’s. I just
ran across an AMOCO add in a sportscar tuning manual from 1958. The add
claims that after 20,000 miles on AMOCO “clear white unleaded” car engines
showed 31.6% less cylinder bore wear, 52.2% less ring wear,and 15.4% less
bearing wear. The reduced wear was attributed to the absence of abrasive
lead compounds on engine components. The add also states that in addition to
causing wear these lead compounds often foul spark plugs and valves and
upset spark timing.
The add doesn’t show any octane number, but claims this to be a high
octane fuel suitable for sportscars, racers, foreign and economy cars.
Wow! And we all thought lead was good for our engines. 
From: Bob Whiles 71561.2752@compuserve.com
Date: 01 Jun 96 01:35:25 EDT
Subject: SplitFire Spark Plugs
Greetings Quang
Hello everyone,
A friend of mine told me that SplitFire spark plugs are really
good. He means they produce more power than regular spark
plugs. Is this true? Should I put them in my 89 XJ40? He
claims that his Mazda saves gas using these spark plugs. Each
costs about $6.
My experience has been that IF the Splitfire Plug “Worked”, then the ignition
system (and sometimes A/F ratio) “needed work” and is “making up” for something
else in the system.
In testing the Splitfire plug on the dyno, the test showed NO improvement on
the test car until the car was pushed to red line to show that 1 to 2 hp gain.
REMEMBER this was on a well tuned car to start with, because this is the point
that I want to make. The car had been tuned (carbs, distributor curve etc on
the dyno). At $6US per plug and for 2 hp (AT RED LINE) forget it. The “trick”
spark plug is nothing new. And remember that the advertising almost sounds like
the stuff (promises) you read on the back of a software package.
What are you now using for spark plugs and their gap, coil, spark plug wires?
EMail Me Back, I’d like to know.
PS. The guys who popped the $6US for the plugs all swear by them. Most of the
opinions (IMHO) are subjective and not based on real facts.
Bob Whiles, Redlands CA USA EMAIL 71561.2752@compuserve.com
86 Jaguar XJ6 S3
Looking for E Type
- → "So what is there about a picture of a pretty girl wearing
- → a Bikini and High Heals, standing next to a beautiful
- → car that doesn’t make sense?"
From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 1996 02:21:55 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Subject: Update on Plugged Exhaust and Air rail
According to the manager at one of our local Midas shops, the front cat was
partially plugged.
That may well be, and I have no objection to you clearing the cat, but if
the anti-backup valve was in good condition you still shouldn’t have had a
problem. Please be sure to check that valve. Your friendly local Midas
man is not qualified to advise you about that.
Thomas
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 1996 07:16:48 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: Fuel additives
On Thu, 30 May 1996, William Frenchu wrote:
Regarding fuel types:
I have heard that the “octane” rating is not so important any more. The
new fuels (up until a couple of months age in the US) have been improved in
so many ways that an 89 octane will run as well as the old 100 octane. Can
anyone verify this??
And the moon is made of green cheese?
But, engines with knock sensors will usually be able to adapt to various
octane ratings, to a certain degree. The efficiency (i.e. fuel mileage)
will suffer, though.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 1996 05:25:25 GMT
Subject: Re: SplitFire Spark Plugs
On Sat, 1 Jun 1996, A.J. Beale wrote:
A friend of mine told me that SplitFire spark plugs are really good. He
means they produce more power than regular spark plugs. Is this true?
Should I put them in my 89 XJ40? He claims that his Mazda saves gas using
these spark plugs. Each costs about $6.A spark plug can’t produce more power except by misfiring less often.
Oh yeah? If the manner in which the combustible gas is ignited didn’t matter,
why, then, did Alfa (plus Maserati and others too) produce significantly
more power from an engine with two sparking plugs per cylinder?
I have no experience whatsoever with the plugs mentioned, and the odds are
pretty high it is all hype. But they could be better sine the quality,
not only the mere presence, of the spark is very significant to engine
performance.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 1996 04:35:56 -0400
Subject: XJ-S Help Booklet
I have just posted a new release of my booklet “Experience In A Book: Help
for the Jaguar XJ-S Owner” to my WWW page:
http://gcn.scri.fsu.edu/~palmk/jaguar.html
I always felt that, sooner or later, this booklet would attain a
near-complete status and that growth would taper off; it would become a
fairly rare occasion that I would have anything new of significance to add
to it. I must report that this time has not yet arrived; this booklet
continues to grow in leaps and bounds, currently being over 180 pages when
printed at 12 cpi.
It has been suggested that I add an illustration of the timing chain
tensioner on the V-12. I consider this an excellent suggestion; you
normally can’t see the damn thing until you have already broken it.
However, at present I myself have no good idea what it looks like; it’s been
several years since I looked at mine. So, it’s not in the book yet.
Anybody got a broken tensioner they wanna send me? Or even just a xerox
copy of a tensioner?
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Sat, 01 Jun 1996 09:57:59 +0000
Subject: BOUNCE jag-lovers@sn.no: Admin request (fwd)
The mail-robot tends to filter out messages it thinks
might be mis-addressed, i.e. they contain commands for
sub_scr_ibing and un_sub_scr_ibing. Hope this one makes
it through.
Nick (admin)
- -------- Forwarded message --------
Date: 01 Jun 96 00:09:44 EDT
From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@CompuServe.COM
Subject: Jaguar World
If the newsstand cost seems too much, try a sub_scr_iption:
in the US, USD 39 for 6 issues = USD 6.50 each.
Newsstand price in Aus is AUD 9.95 = about USD 8.
John Elmgreen
<<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>>
<<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>>
The JagWeb http://www.sn.no/~nick/jaguar.html <<<
From: Melanie Brackett brackett@uwimona.edu.jm
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 1996 06:24:58 -0500 (GMT-0500)
Subject: Re: SplitFire Spark Plugs
On 1 Jun 1996, Bob Whiles wrote:
Greetings Quang
Hello everyone,
A friend of mine told me that SplitFire spark plugs are really
good. He means they produce more power than regular spark
plugs. Is this true? Should I put them in my 89 XJ40? He
claims that his Mazda saves gas using these spark plugs. Each
costs about $6.My experience has been that IF the Splitfire Plug “Worked”, then the ignition
system (and sometimes A/F ratio) “needed work” and is “making up” for something
else in the system.In testing the Splitfire plug on the dyno, the test showed NO improvement on
the test car until the car was pushed to red line to show that 1 to 2 hp gain.
REMEMBER this was on a well tuned car to start with, because this is the point
that I want to make. The car had been tuned (carbs, distributor curve etc on
the dyno). At $6US per plug and for 2 hp (AT RED LINE) forget it. The “trick”
spark plug is nothing new. And remember that the advertising almost sounds like
the stuff (promises) you read on the back of a software package.What are you now using for spark plugs and their gap, coil, spark plug wires?
EMail Me Back, I’d like to know.PS. The guys who popped the $6US for the plugs all swear by them. Most of the
opinions (IMHO) are subjective and not based on real facts.
Okay, Okay. I was a little skeptical as well, till someone told me of the
science behind why these plugs should work. When the air fuel mixture is
ignited, The SPEED at which the gas expands is important to making power
and preventing detonation. The more gas mixture exposed to the spark, the
quicker the rate of expansion. The head of this expansion is called the
FLAME FRONT. This is also explains the fact that if one puts aftermarket
coils (Such as those manufactured by Accel and MSD) AND increases the spark
gap, you will not only have a MUCH smoother running engine, but you will
make more power, not earthshaking power, but power nontheless. What the
splitfire alledgedly does change the SHAPE of the spark, achieving
more or less the same flame front speed (probably much less than more) as
if you had gone for an aftermarket big juice electronic ignition. Result:
smoother running engine, less emissions, and slightly more power. Quicker
starts, too, as well as slightly improved fuel economy. Also it cleans
the combustion chamber deposits, as the combustion is so much hotter. I
think this idea is a good one. Beats paying the price for an MSD!!
From: “Norm deCarteret (813-878-3798)” nsdec@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 96 08:09:39 EDT
Subject: missing: 1957 XK150 red roadster
1957 Jaguar XK150 red roadster, black leather interior & top.
Taken by consignment agent Suncoast Classics, Jerry Conte.
Reward for info leading to recovery. VIN S831088.
Posted for Joe Campolong, 704-883-8031.
From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 1996 08:45:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: XJ-S Help Booklet
Anybody got a broken tensioner they wanna send me? Or even just a xerox
copy of a tensioner?
Kirby,
It was I that made that suggestion and I do mean to send you a xerox of the
new one and the actual broken one. The new piece just arrived so you’ll
get the package say next week. I will also send you my glued together
distributor thrust washer if you are interested, but request that you
return it.
Thomas E. Alberts
1987 XJ-S
From: HDR64@aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 1996 09:04:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Radiator Fan Problem ( 19…
And if it turns out to be a fan clutch…buy an aftermarket unit…they are
less expensive and work just fine.
Good Luck!
Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax
From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Sat, 01 Jun 1996 09:16:51 +0100
Subject: Re: Jaguar World Magazine
Hi all,
While I agree it’s a pain to have to pay more for something
that you really want, maybe the realization that (perhaps) our
cars are also increasing in value, although in this economy,
somewhat slowly, will ease the pain.
I have a 1961 Road & Track (intoducing the E-Type) and the
single copy price of that was fifty cents. The annual sub.
was $4.50! The E-Type was listed at just under $6k (US).
(I’ll take 10, thank you!)
Charles Daly
From: The_Tiger@eeyore.eagpde.co.uk
Date: Sat, 01 Jun 96 14:53:48 +0100
Subject: XJ-S Wiper Woes continue
I made a posting about a wek ago for the location
of the wiper delay relay for an 88 XJ-S.
(Thanks to Felicisimo Requiro for the reply).
I replaced this this weekend. Great, the relay
works…
However, the wiper park still doesnt. So now
instead of getting 1/2 a sec of wiper movement
when I switch on the intermittent, I get constant.
RATS!!!
I suspect this may be a microswitch. If I am
right, is it possible to access and replace this,
or am I going to have to replace the whole d***ned
wiper motor. 
The_Tiger < bb@eagpde.co.uk >
From: jjoy@risc.sps.mot.com
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 1996 09:00:03 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Jaguar Suppliers (posted monthly)
removed Larry Bowling and John Rhodes since the phone numbers are no
longer valid
added H.D. Rogers & Sons and Asom Electric
modified British Auto USA/Interiors entries – combined since the same
shop
Suppliers, North America (mostly).
(Corrections, etc, to: jjoy@risc.sps.mot.com)
The majority of this list has come from Rob Reilly reilly@admail.fnal.gov
SUPPLIERS OF JAGUAR PARTS AND SERVICES Rev. 3-27-95
A D Motor Rebuilding, NY 1-516-395-5101
Lucas, Smith’s motors rebuilt
Al Hogan’s Autojumble Mansfield, Ohio 1-419-524-1088
NOS parts supplier
Specializes in buying out old dealer stock. Owner (Al) is knowledgeable
about british car parts.
- -Steve DuChene s0017210@cc.ysu.edu
Dick Ames, 608 Ft. Williams Pkwy, Alexandria, VA 22304 1-703-370-3097
stainless exhaust systems
Best price on stainless steel exhaust systems. I’ve misplaced the
address but can probably look it up if pressed.
- -PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)
Ancient Car Parts, 64 N Main, Lyndonville, NY 14098 1-716-765-2894
rust repair panels for XJ
Apple Hydraulics, 715 Route 25A, Miller Place, NY 11764 1-800-882-7753
rebuilds Armstrong, Girling shocks, SU carbs 1-516-744-9627
Asom Electric, 1204 McClellan Dr., Los Angeles, CA 90025 1-310-820-3720
email: asomelect@aol.com 1-800-424-2766
Electrical rebuilding shop that deals mostly in Lucas and Bosch and
rebuild starters, alternators, generators, fuel pumps, voltage regulators,
wiper and window motors. They have a large supply of Lucas parts,
including discontinued items. In business for 36 years, have daily UPS,
and accept credit cards.
Atlantic Enterprises, Route 4, Box 394-B, Loris, SC 29569 1-803-756-7565
steering racks, seal kits, polyurethane rack mounts
Auto Interiors of Europe, 1790 E McFadden, Unit 107 1-800-533-2886
interiors Santa Ana, CA 92705
(not sure which addr. is correct)
3023 S. Orange Ave.
Santa Ana, CA 92707
(714) 751-9046
Nice stuff if I remember correctly. Not cheap but nothing for these
beasts is.
-
- s912!rick@bnf.com (Rick Ezneker)
Kent Bain, 1785 Barnum Ave, Stratford, CT 06497 1-203-377-6745
custom interiors, seat rebuilding and repadding
G.W.Bartlett, Muncie, Ind. 1-800-338-8034
interior and trim parts
Sells original Jaguar Interior kits and components. All to exact Jaguar
specifications. As per original spec. Quite costly but isn’t quality
always a bit more? (eg. Interior kit for Jag 3.8s is about $4200, retail.)
-
- zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay)
Basset’s, Wyoming, R.I. 1-401-539-3010
restoration parts
Borla Industries, Oxnard, Calif. 1-805-983-7300
stainless exhaust
British Auto Center, 2938 SW Avalon Way, Seattle, WA 98126 206-935-0873
Lots of late model stuff, new and used. Very knowledgeable. Can
sometimes be grumpy. – Greg Meboe (meboe@wsunix.wsu.edu)
British Auto USA, 92 Londonderry Trnpk, 1-603-622-1050
British Auto USA Interiors Manchester, NH 03104 1-800-4-JAGPTS
interior and trim parts 1-800-452-4787
Exc. inventory of interiors and body parts. Limited inventory of
mechanical parts but I always check them out because they’re cheaper!
(I avoid Bartlets for Jag interiors)
- -PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)
British Car Parts, CA 1-818-788-7636
new and used parts
British Marque Auto PO Box 344, Bainbridge, PA 17502 1-717-426-2675
interiors
British Motor Service, 521 W. Katella, Orange, CA 92667 1-714-997-3800
Moss distributor, used XK parts
British Parts Northwest, 4105 SE Lafayette Hwy, 1-503-864-2001
new parts for late models, no sheet metal Dayton, OR 97114
British Restoration Parts, Kansas City, Mo. 1-800-821-3767
new restoration parts
British Spares, 46 Florence, Springfield, MA 01105 1-413-736-0463
fabricates panels for XK, Marks, E
British Vintages, 645-D Tank Farm Rd, 1-800-350-JAGS
San Luis Obispo, CA 93401 1-805-541-5986
Have their catalog but so far never used them.
- -PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)
British Wire Wheel, 1650 Mansfield St, 1-408-479-4495
Santa Cruz, CA 95062
Dayton and Dunlop wire wheels, tires
THE place to go for correct reconditioning of your JagWires. Also to
buy THE correct tires.
- -PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)
Bob Brosen, 7804 Billington Court, Oxen Hill, MD 20744 1-301-248-6327
new repro parts for pre-war, Mark IV, V
Classic Parts & Panels, Ltd. 0296 658938
Fleet Marston Farm, Bicester Rd., Nr Waddesdon
Aylesbury, Bucks, UK HD 18 ODZ XK panels
Classic Restoration Parts, Bellflower, Ca. 1-213-804-2756
XK grilles, gas tanks
Classic Tube 1-716-759-1800
A Division of Classic & Performance Specialists
80 Rotech Drive
Lancaster, NY 14086 USA
They supply steel and stainless steel pre-bent brake and fuel lines for
various makes of cars. I got half the brake lines and clutch lines
from them in stainless, and being the prudish restoration junkie I am,
I was concerned that the reproduction in stainless would not be very
“original”. However, I’m happy to say the final product is almost
identical to the original steel lines, most judges will not notice the
difference. – Mark Roberts (markdr@bnr.ca)
Concourse West, 644 Terminal Way, Costa Mesa CA 92627 714-642-9807
fax 714-645-8388
Have rebuilt diffs.
- -PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)
Cordell R. Newby, 1410 N. Aurora, East Wenatchee, WA 98801 509-884-6823
Specializes in Mark V parts. New and used.
-
- s912!rick@bnf.com (Rick Ezneker)
Coshman Ent, PO Box 2685-J, Orcutt, CA 93455 1-805-937-7456
Whitworth tools, taps & dies, gauges, fasteners
Coventry Engineering, 9500 SW Martha St, Tigard, OR 97224 1-503-620-9482
wiring harnesses
Coventry S Ltd, 6406 85th Place, New Carrolton, MD 20784 1-800-537-4146
stainless exhaust systems
Joe Curto, 230-22 58th Ave. Bayside, NY 11364 1-718-465-4829
S.U. parts
Wes Czech, HCR 9550, Lucerne Valley, CA 92356 1-619-248-9603
XK parts
Stanley Daniel, 124 Parkview Rd. Cheltenham, PA 19012 1-215-782-1248
used Mark 7-9 parts from 30 cars, call after 9PM EST
Doctor Jaguar, 644 W 17th St, Costa Mesa, CA 92627 1-714-646-2816
parts, engines, trans, susp. parts
East Coast Jag Parts DE 1-302-731-7200
EJAG NEWS, Box J, Carlisle, Mass 01741 magazine, a few accessories
Engel Imports, Kalamazoo, Mich. 1-800-253-4080
new car dealer, will UPS, cheaper than other dealers
European Auto Specialists, 1-313-355-2730
OEM parts for late models
John Farrel, 4315 Murray St., Flushing, NY 11355 1-718-762-9071
NOS XK parts
Foreign Car Center, 1610 S Main, Milpitas, CA 95035 1-408-262-0325
used parts recycler
Grand Turisimo Jaguar, Eastlake, Ohio 1-800-852-4827, 1-216-951-2000
engine rebuilder, parts
Specializing in high performance parts and services. They list a
‘level 5’ Jaguar V12 with all of the whistles and bells like porting,
balancing, etc. with 6, count them, 6 two bbl Weber carbs mounted
vertically across the top of the V12! This engine sells for about
$13,500. - zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay)
Gunson Ltd., Pudding Mill Lane, London E15 2PJ
UK source for ColourTune
Tony Handler’s Foreign Parts Connection 1-213-473-7773
2028 Cotner Ave, Westwood, CA 90025
H.D. Rogers & Sons 1-318-742-3651
3418 Barksdale Blvd. fax: 1-318-742-5044
Bossier City, LA 71112
email: hdr64@aol.com (Hal Rogers)
Family-owned business supplying used, NOS, discontinued parts as well as
enhancements for newer cars. For example, they offer aftermarket a/c
hoses for XJ series and a less expensive amplifier. They try to give
special rates to internet users. They also have contracts worldwide
and will try to locate hard to find items, and offer special prices for
prepaid orders from overseas.
Harry CA 1-408-262-0235
used parts
H.P. Co., 1079 Colonial Club Dr, Harahan, LA 70123 1-504-737-4691
burled walnut dashboards
I-35 Imports Oklahoma 1-405-799-2886
used parts, 80 and older
Intermarque Auto Parts Houston 1-800-666-8700
parts and sheet metal
International Spare Parts 1-800-243-0073
J.K.Restorations, 12 Jackson, Oswego, IL 1-708-554-2120
complete restorations, specialist for XK and E, some used parts
Jag Atlanta, 3437 Sexton Woods Dr, Chamblee, GA 30341 1-800-533-8973
new, used parts for E and XJ 1-404-455-0175
Jaggist (Alan Trickel) 1065 Hillview, Ashland, OR 97520 1-503-535-8486
used XK parts
Jaguar Cars Inc, Public Relations, Mahwah NJ 1-201-818-9770
For a fee will authenticate your VIDNs.
- -PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)
Jaguar Denver 1-800-426-4515
Lucas, Girling, Jag parts
Jaguar Heaven, 1433 Tillie Lewis Dr, Stockton, CA 95206-1130
info: 1-209-942-4524, orders: 1-800-969-4524, FAX: 1-209-942-3670
used parts recycler, all models
Jaguar Interiors of England, PO Box 47, Muncie, IN 47308 1-317-289-9901
carpeting and upholstery
Jaguar Motor Works, 3701 Longview Dr, Atlanta, GA 30341 1-800-331-2193
used XJ parts recycler, rebuilt parts Local 404-451-3839
FAX-404-451-7561
Jaguar of North America, Leonia, NJ 1-201-592-5200
factory American distributor
Jaguar South Greenville, SC 1-803-244-1555, 1-803-292-3934
used parts recycler
Jaguar parts SC 1-803-754-5363
Jaguar Warehouse, 6010 Mardale Lane, Burke, VA 22015 1-703-451-4071
NOS parts
Jaguar Warehouse, 5727 Walcott Ave, Fairfax, VA 22030 1-703-968-3983
XK parts
J C Whitney, Chicago, IL 312-431-6102
Also known as Warshawsky/Whitney. Sells car parts cheap for most cars
including LBCs. Massive buying power. Brainless order-takers. You
can call in the middle of the night for good long-distance rates. They
will not tell you brand names. All the swaybars are ADDCO. See also
ADDCO and Werace. - ?
J.C. Whitney offers a few items that are of interest. Things like generic
weatherstrip by the foot, etc. The do offer after market A/C units and
high output quartz halogen 7 inch headlights (110 watts!!!). The ad
carries the label ‘Not legal for street use.’ They look really cool.
-
- zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay)
John’s Cars, 800 Jaguar Lane, Dallas, TX 75226 1-214-426-4100
fax: 1-214-426-3116
V-8 conversions, other repro parts, claims improvements over stock
Just Jags, 407 Industrial Dr, Carmel, IN 46032 1-317-844-8823
new, used parts, service, restorations
Just Jags, 8720 Big Bend at Elm, St.Louis, MO 63119 1-314-968-2450
service, parts, restoration shop
Keller Associates, PO Box 2833, Saratoga, CA 95070 1-408-370-3705
burl walnut dashboards
Lister of North Am, 1912 Granvill Av, Muncie, IN 47308 1-800-338-8034
high performance accessories
Lovello, Mark SC 1-803-244-1555
used parts
Moss Motors, PO Box MG, 7200 Hollister Av, Goleta, CA 93116 800-235-6954
new and repro parts for XK’s
Moss Motors, Santa Barbara, California 1-805-963-0741
new car dealer
Cordell Newby, 1625 N Western, East Wenatchee, WA 98801 1-509-662-7748
new, used, repro parts for pre-war, Mark IV, V
added: Jul. 29, 1994
Nisonger Instrument Sales & Service 1-914-381-1952
570 Mamaroneck Ave. fax: 1-914-381-1953
Mamaroneck, NY 10543
Repairs capillary based guages.
“I had them repair my water temp gauge 2 months ago. Charge was $100 including
shipping, turnaround time was 2 weeks, and they take plastic.” Rob Reilly
Northwest Modern Classics, 121 Duryea, Raymond, WA 98577
interiors, carpets, upholstery, tops 1-800-854-1751,1-206-942-5532
Northwest Transmission Parts, Ohio 1-513-442-2811 or 1-800-327-1955
auto trans rebuilding kits, torque convertors
Peninsula Imports, 3749 Harlem Rd, Buffalo, NY 14215 1-800-999-1209
XJ, E body and rust repair panels 1-716-833-3000
Fred Petroske, RR1, Box 112, Chaumont, NY 13622 1-315-649-2861
used parts recycler, all models
Paul K. Phillips 1-305-846-7976
1124 N. W. 134 Ave. fax: 1-305-846-9450
Sunrise, FL 33323
Specializes in the XJ Coupe market and runs an XJC register.
“I have dealt with him once on an exhaust system (via a referral from
SICP) and got good service. He does require cash C.O.D. (no credit cards)
which is a bit of a bother.” - gladish@suite.com (Brian Gladish)
Phil’s, Inc. Ashland Ave, Evanston, IL 1-708-869-2434
PII Distributing, PO Box 27358, Houston, TX 77227-7358 1-800-231-5836
genuine Jaguar parts, sheet metal 1-713-975-6272
Chuck Pilate, 24996 W Magdalena Dr, Mt Clemens, MI 48045
XK, E parts 1-313-791-0429
Rich’s Import Auto Parts & Serv, 730 N Glebe Rd, Arlington, VA 22203
parts for E, XJ and 62 on sedans 1-800-336-6603, 1-703-522-0440
Rhino Auto Parts, Hanover, MN 1-612-498-8711
used and NOS parts 50’s to 70’s
Rhode Island Wiring Service, Box 3737H, Peace Dale, RI 02883
wiring harnesses 1-401-789-1955
Martin Robey Panels, Pool Rd, Camp Hill 011-44-203-386-903
Industrial Estate, Nuneaton, Warks CV10 9AE England
Rodney, 2035 Cornell St, Sarasota, FL 33577 1-813-955-5960
used parts recycler
SCJ, 3 Elizabeth Ave, Burlington, MA 01803
NOS parts, pre-war to 61
Samplex, 30 Parkview Dr, Succasunna, NJ 07876 201-584-9370
US source for ColourTune
Special Interest Car Parts, 1340 Hartford Ave, Johnston, RI 02919
voice: 1-800-556-7496, 1-800-851-5600, 1-401-831-8850
fax: 1-800-672-SICP(1-800-672-7427), 1-401-831-7760
We have parts for your Jaguar, MG, Healey, TR. Good prices. Superb
catalog. Parts from XK120 through XJ40 including e-types. Will often
meet or beat prices from competitors.
S&S Specialties, 108 Sation St, Cumming, IA 50061 1-515-981-9148
NOS, rebuilt and used parts for XK, Mk and E, sheet metal parts
Stainless Steel Muffler Corp, 3032 Genesee St, Buffalo, NY 14225
stainless exhaust systems 1-716-893-2116
Terry’s Jaguar Parts, 117 E Smith St, Benton, IL 62812 1-800-851-9438
new and used parts for later models 1-618-439-4444
Bill Tracy, Sarasota, Florida 1-813-924-9523
new and repro parts for XK’s
Trans Ocean, Dept PDH, 390 Olive Tree Lane, Sierra Madre, CA 91024
Lucas parts jobber, '30 to '76 British cars
Welsh Jaguar Enterprises, Steubenville, Ohio 1-800-875-5247
new and repro parts for XK’s and newer 1-614-282-8649
fax: 1-614-282-1913
Catalogue available. (free)
The best prices for Jaguar parts that I have found.
-
- zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay)
Exc. inventory of parts, new and used. Can offer helpful technical advice.
- -PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)
Ed West, 1941H Jan Marie Place, Tustin, CA 92680 1-714-832-2688
new, used, repro parts for earlier Jags
Ed west has lots of intresting stuff at very resonable prices and lots
of advice. – m_skogs@ix.netcom.com (Matthew Skosberg)
White Post Restorations, White Post, VA 22663 1-703-837-1140
restorations, brake and clutch cylinders resleeved
XK’s Unlimited, 850 Fiero Lane, San Luis Obispo, CA 93401 1-805-544-7864
new and repro parts for XK’s 1-800-444-JAGS
In CA: 805-544-7864 FAX: 805-544-1664
catalog available. ($6.00, refundable first order)
“Parts & Service for all model Jaguars from 1948 on” XK’s Unlimited is
a good place to send Girling calipers for for piston bore sleeving. -?
XK’s Unlimited is good, but is a bit higher than Welch Jaguar. They
are also committed to “correct” parts. Additionally, you can call them
without a part number. Just be sure that they tell you what is
included in the replacement part. - zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O.
Lindsay)
Good inventory and advice, but pricey. Nice catalogue. Has a
restoration shop sleeving brake cylinders in stainless.
- -PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)
XKSS Interiors, Thousand Oaks, CA 91359 1-800-922-XKSS, 1-805-482-4682
interior and trim parts
Vicarage Jaguar 1-305-444-8759
% Gables Cats fax: 1-305-443-6443
220 Granello Avenue
Coral Gables, FL 33146
vicarage@ix.netcom.com (alt. vicarage@paradise.net)
http://paradise.net/vicarage
Vicarage says: If one is in need of specialized or hard to find parts
we will have them. In addition we do offer the unique Vicarage
upgrades and enhancement products for all post war Jaguars.
Zimmer, Bob 2675 Stoney Brook Rd, Orchard Park, NY 14127 1-716-652-7909
XK parts
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #129
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jag-lovers-digest Sunday, 2 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 130
From: Ken Redmond reddog39@popalex1.linknet.net
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 1996 09:45:43 -0500
Subject: 88 XJ-S ignition light
Can anyone point me in the right direction on where to start to
look for the cause of my ignition warning lamp to come on on my 1988 XJ-S?
It came on last night. The car is running fine but the lamp
stays on when I am driving. What is this light supposed to warn you of?
Thanks for your help
Ken Redmond
86 XJ-6III
105,000 miles
Where else can we have this much fun !!!
From: zlozower@primenet.com (neil zlozower)
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 1996 08:17:58 -0700 (MST)
Subject: blown engine
Date: Fri, 31 May 96 21:45:54 -0700 (PDT)
X-Sender: mguthrie@sd.cts.com
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
From: mguthrie@cts.com (mario guthrie)
Subject: blown engine
Sender: owner-jag-lovers@sn.no
Precedence: bulkI just blew the engine on my Jaguar. The dealer wants $8000.00 for a new
engine here in san diego california. Plus labor! Someone told me to drop a
V-8 in the auto for less money. Is this reasonable? Any information would be
appreciated!Thanks
Mario
marioHi Mario
I think the price from my Jaguar mechanic up here is around $6000 for a
rebuild (Angelos Jaguar).
If you don’t have the money and really want to keep the car, you could put
in a v8 engine but don’t expect it to drive like a Jaguar with a dual
overhead cam engine!! The Jaguar engine is part of the nature of driving a
Jag and the V8 will give the car a totally different feel (plus make the car
value drop drastically)!!!
Good luck
Zloz
64xke roadster
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 1996 11:20:16 -0400
Subject: Re: SplitFire Spark Plugs
Egil Kvaleberg:
A spark plug can’t produce more power except by misfiring less often.
Oh yeah? If the manner in which the combustible gas is ignited didn’t matter,
why, then, did Alfa (plus Maserati and others too) produce significantly
more power from an engine with two sparking plugs per cylinder?
Starting the fire at two different places has big benefits. Once ignited,
the flame front must travel across the combustion chamber to ignite the
entire charge. If the RPM is high and the piston is already moving
downward, it has a hard time keeping up, so the ignition must occur a good
ways BEFORE TDC to get the flame to travel throughout. When you have two
plugs, the flame only has to travel half as far to completely ignite the
charge. The benefit is kinda like advancing the timing a whole bunch
without getting any additional knocking.
This is NOT what SplitFire plugs are all about. SplitFire is hyping the
same benefit that many normal plugs share: it is easier for a spark to jump
to an edge than to a flat surface, so we’ll provide more edges. A good
plan, but not worth $6/plug. Instead, buy NGK “V-power” plugs, which have a
notch in the center electrode to provide a couple more edges.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 1996 11:43:01 -0400
Subject: Re: xke question
Mike Frank writes:
MF> If you do have a broken right angle drive, you should identify the
MF> cause before installing a new one, otherwise you are just throwing
MF> money away. With the speedometer cable connected to the speedometer
MF> head, disconnect the cable end from the right angle drive. Chuck
MF> the speedometer cable in an electric drill, and give it a quick
MF> spin. If the cable turns, run the drill for a minute or two to
MF> verify speedometer action.
When you give the speedometer cable a quick spin, should the drill be in
“forward,” “reverse,” or does it matter?
-Steve A.
From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 1996 11:43:05 -0400
Subject: Re: '87 XJE & Other 1987 Jaguar Trivia
Lee Walden writes:
LW> Any way to verify the year built? My brother says there
LW> were very few “true” 87’s made.
It’s true that there weren’t very many “true” 87 S3 XJ6 cars made. According
to my 1987 Jaguar Annual Report, “The first few months of 1987 saw an orderly
run-out of Series III 6-cylinder models…” Total Series III vehicle
wholesales were 7,241 for 1987 and probably most of these were XJ12s.
Since I have the Report out, other interesting items on Jaguar in 1987
include:
XJ40 production increased from 365/week to 900/week
Completion of the Engineering Center at Whitley
Jaguar’s first-ever capture of the World Sportscar Championship
Sales grew 46% in the UK
US Sales dropped 6% (mostly due to few SIII & only partial year XJ40 sales)
Profits were down 27% to $115.3M on sales of $1,883.9M
Jaguar employment grew by 949
1987 Vehicle Sales:
US - 22,919
Canada - 2,660
UK - 11,102
France - 1,026 (No sales figures were given for
Italy - 610 places that many of our members
Spain - 405 live such as Norway, Australia,
Switzerland- 657 South Africa, Netherlands, NZ)
Germany - 2,184
Other Europe 1,668
Rest of World 3,412
Total Sales 46,643
-Steve A.
From: “Richard Atherton (Entex)” a-richat@microsoft.com
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 1996 13:13:15 -0700
Subject: RE: blown engine
Get a bone Yard engine (auto wrecking yard) and have it rebuilt, for
much less than a new one, and it will still be a Jag. If the original
block is still usable, Use it so the numbers match…I hate to see any
Jag ending up Chevy powered…It’s a crime against humanity, decentcy,
and the great English Empire…
Rich
From: mguthrie@cts.com[SMTP:mguthrie@cts.com]
Sent: Friday, May 31, 1996 9:45 PM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: blown engineI just blew the engine on my Jaguar. The dealer wants $8000.00 for a
new
engine here in san diego california. Plus labor! Someone told me to
drop a
V-8 in the auto for less money. Is this reasonable? Any information
would be
appreciated!Thanks
Mario
mario
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 1996 18:22:42 -0400
Subject: Re: SplitFire Spark Plugs
Melanie Brackett:
Okay, Okay. I was a little skeptical as well, till someone told me of the
science behind why these plugs should work… What the
splitfire alledgedly does change the SHAPE of the spark…
Got some really bad news for you: the spark is gonna be more or less a
straight line from one electrode to the other. SplitFire cannot change physics.
This is also explains the fact that if one puts aftermarket
coils (Such as those manufactured by Accel and MSD) AND increases the spark
gap, you will not only have a MUCH smoother running engine, but you will
make more power, not earthshaking power, but power nontheless.
The advantage of such aftermarket systems lies in the reliability of
igniting the charge AT ALL. The odds that there is an ignitable mixture in
the vicinity of a 0.080" gap is much greater than for a 0.025" gap. Once in
a great while, the smaller gap will fail to light the charge while the
larger gap will succeed more often.
Is it a significant difference? Well, how often do you think your present
system misses a fire? If it’s a stock engine, not very often – if it did,
the unburned charge would enter the exhaust system and screw up the oxygen
sensor readings, heat up the catalytic convertor, decrease fuel economy, and
increase emissions. IOW, if the aftermarket coils actually did squat, they
would be original equipment! The manufacturers would LOVE to gain fuel
economy and lower emissions with such an easy fix!
Now, if your car ISN’T stock, it might misfire a great deal more – most
notably if a hot cam has been installed. We have all heard hot rods that
seem to idle very poorly; that’s because they’re misfiring like crazy due to
some really erratic fuel mixtures at idle. In these cases, ignition
upgrades would be really helpful.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 96 18:21:04 PDT
Subject: Re: blown engine
I just blew the engine on my Jaguar. The dealer wants $8000.00 for a new
engine here in san diego california. Plus labor!
You didn’t say what kind of engine in your Jag, what year, etc.
How did you blow it? over-heating? forgot to put oil in? Perhaps it
can be rebuilt? How many miles is on it?
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 1996 21:24:04 -0400
Subject: Re: xke question (speedometer)
jAt 11:43 AM 6/1/96 -0400, you wrote:
Mike Frank writes:
MF> If you do have a broken right angle drive, you should identify the
MF> cause before installing a new one, otherwise you are just throwing
MF> money away. With the speedometer cable connected to the speedometer
MF> head, disconnect the cable end from the right angle drive. Chuck
MF> the speedometer cable in an electric drill, and give it a quick
MF> spin. If the cable turns, run the drill for a minute or two to
MF> verify speedometer action.When you give the speedometer cable a quick spin, should the drill be in
“forward,” “reverse,” or does it matter?
-Steve A.
Steve:
I knew someone would ask. As I recall, the drill was set to spin clockwise,
but it’s been a while. Anyhow, if you spin it in the wrong direction, it’s
like putting the car in reverse: all the parts move, but the speedometer
won’t register. So either way, you can detect a kinked cable or sticky
bearing. If the cable spins smoothly, but the needle doesn’t move, switch
the drill to counter clockwise for a speedo check. When you figure out the
correct direction of spin, share it with us.
Mike Frank
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 1996 21:17:38 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: blown engine
On Fri, 31 May 1996, mario guthrie wrote:
I just blew the engine on my Jaguar. The dealer wants $8000.00 for a new
engine here in san diego california. Plus labor! Someone told me to drop a
V-8 in the auto for less money. Is this reasonable? Any information would be
appreciated!
Mario,
Without knowing the type of engine (V-12, XK (displacement?), or AJ), model
and year of your car, and just what “blew the engine” means, it is
impossible to give you any kind of evaluation of the dealer’s
recommendation. Your “blown” engine MAY be rebuildable by a good Jaguar
mechanic, but you probably won’t find that mechanic through the
dealership. Somebody on this list will probably have a recommendation,
though. If I were in your situation, I’d want to know more about what
was wrong and more about my options before I made a decision. Tell us
more about your situation and we’ll try to help.
There has recently been (once again) an exhaustive review of opinions
concerning replacement of Jaguar engines with American engines–
collectively referred to as “lumps.” You can access more of this thread
than you probably care to read on the list archives. Personally, I can’t
imagine having a Jaguar without a Jaguar engine, even at twice the price
of a lump. Others disagree. I guess it’s a matter of what YOU want your
Jaguar to be.
Larry Lee
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 1996 22:50:17 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: SplitFire Spark Plugs
On Sat, 1 Jun 1996, Egil Kvaleberg wrote:
A friend of mine told me that SplitFire spark plugs are really good. He
A spark plug can’t produce more power except by misfiring less often.
Oh yeah? If the manner in which the combustible gas is ignited didn’t matter,
why, then, did Alfa (plus Maserati and others too) produce significantly
more power from an engine with two sparking plugs per cylinder?
There are basically two reasons to use two spark plugs per
cylinder–reliability and/or control of the flame path. Keep in mind
that the fuel-air mixture in the cylinder does NOT explode like many
sources say. It burns rapidly, but smoothly, and the flame front moves
across the combustion chamber in a predictable fashion. When it does not
do this, you often detect it as knock, or pinging (“pinking” to our British
friends). How fast the flame front moves is a mainly a function of
compression ratio (higher = faster) and fuel octane (higher = slower).
Obviously, the engine design determines how far the flame front must
travel and the time in which full combustion should take place. Other
factors, like carbon deposits and enrichment for acceleration also come
into play.
Having two plugs helps ensure that at least one works every time so that
the cylinder produces power. Many aircraft engines had two plugs per
cylinder for this reason. The other reason has to do with shortening the
distance the flame front must travel–hence the time required for
complete combustion–in high-speed engines. Starting the flame at two
locations can substantially reduce the distance each flame front must
travel, and, thus, the time required for full combustion. This can be
worthwhile in some engine designs, but a useless expense in others.
As far as the hemispherical-head XK engine is concerned, the single spark
plug placement at the top of the dome is ideal.
This is a simplistic explanation. A thorough engineering analysis to
determine the desirability of dual plugs would include a detailed
analysis of pressures and temperatures throughout the cylinder,
as well as their rates of change, coupled with a dynamic analysis of
the engine components over the expected operating speed range.
As in most engineered devices, more is not necessarily better. A good
design depends on many parameters, and many trade-offs must be made, even
for racing engines. SplitFire plugs, with multiple spark paths, MIGHT
increase reliability by some small amount in situations where plugs are
prone to fouling, but they can not act like dual plugs performance-
wise–their multiple sparks are all essentially in the same place, so
the flame front produced will be essentially the same as before.
If it ain’t broke, or if you don’t understand how to pursue a different
performance objective, don’t “fix” it!
Larry Lee
“To engineer is human, but so is to tinker.”
From: Bob Whiles 71561.2752@compuserve.com
Date: 02 Jun 96 01:03:00 EDT
Subject: Re: SplitFire Spark Plugs
Greetings fellow Jag LOVERS!
Kirby responded early the Splitfire question and I’m responding to what he said
and adding to it.
If reference to “spark plugs” . . .
more or less a straight line from one electrode to the other.
More so, from one sharp point to another.
Now, if your car ISN’T stock, it might misfire a great deal
more – most notably if a hot cam has been installed. We have
all heard hot rods that seem to idle very poorly; that’s
because they’re misfiring like crazy
My Point exactly! BUT, sorry, can also be true for stock.
The odds that there is an ignitable mixture in the vicinity of
a 0.080" gap is much greater than for a 0.025" gap. Once in a
great while, the smaller gap will fail to light the charge
while the larger gap will succeed more often.
Depends on the condition of the ignition system, compression ratio, Cylinder
Pressure, operating RPM range, fuel condition and a few other things. IN THEORY
there is a Gap around .100 that will give the best quality of spark to be had.
But that is on paper and excludes many of the dynamics that take place in our
daily drivers. I have tried to reach that ideal many times but have never been
able to make USE of it, because of the variation in driving range that takes
place from day to day.
TO take the point further . . .
A larger gap in theory will give a smoother running engine and more power, IF
the coil and ignition SYSTEM can handle it. It is possible for a guy to
increase the gap on his plugs and NOT ignite the fuel. Anyone with a stock
coil and ignition system probably won’t be able to take advantage of the larger
gap. It was back in the late 70’s when GM specked out the .080 gap for their
HEI’s but I think they came off of that some time ago (have to check to be sure
-
- not a chevy man ). I think that the reason we have to back off from the
larger gap is that as the plug wears and the gap increases and then so do the
voltage requirements to jump the gap. This wear that takes place on the
electrodes usually “rounds” the electrode and results in misfires! Why? Sparks
like to jump from one sharp surface to another.
- not a chevy man ). I think that the reason we have to back off from the
My way of thought is that the gap needs to be set in relation to both the “CARS”
dynamics and the “DRIVER’s” FOOT. For the person who takes it easy, the gap can
be increased and for the “hot rodder” the gap may need to be smaller. The only
way to know what is the right gap for a particular car and driver is by testing.
Well, how often do you think your present system misses a fire?
Actually as much as 6 to 12 percent of the time.
decrease fuel economy, and increase emissions.
But that is what happens. As the plug wears and the system is “pushed” fuel
economy does drop and emissions do increase - how fast this takes place depends
on that particular car and driver.
if the aftermarket coils actually did squat, they would be
original equipment!
Actually it’s an OEM coil that has taken the flag among the auto builders. The
HEI type coil design (variable permeability solid core magnet) is being used
across the auto manufactures and the aftermarket. The thing that people need to
stay away from are those 1 zillion volt coils knock your shorts off type coils.
Now that I’ve got that off my chest, I would like to say that the first thing I
did to my 86 Jag was to swap out the coil to the HEI type with post, change the
plugs one step colder, widen the gap (I’m now at .043), toss the plug wires and
went to a Spiral core type wire with a magnetic core, cut the rotor back and
reshaped it. I plan to recurve the distributor here shortly. The only thing
that has kept me from it, * Embarrassment * , is how do you get to the
distributor lock down bolt? And what size is it?
Bob Whiles, Redlands CA USA 71561.2752@compuserve.com
86 Jaguar XJ6 S3
Looking for E Type
- → "So what is there about a picture of a pretty girl wearing
- → a Bikini, High Heals and standing next to a beautiful
- → car that doesn’t make sense?"
From: Bob Whiles 71561.2752@compuserve.com
Date: 02 Jun 96 01:03:07 EDT
Subject: Re: SplitFire Spark Plugs
Okay, Okay. I was a little skeptical as well,
I’m not skeptical, I just have to look at the facts on the dyno.
The more gas mixture exposed to the spark, the quicker the
rate of expansion. The head of this expansion is called the
FLAME FRONT.
It is interesting that Honda doesn’t expose the plug to the mixture at all.
They use a smaller chamber that is connected to the combustion chamber. They
lean out the engines to about 25:1 (very difficult to ignite) and maintain an
almost ideal 12:1 ratio in the sparkplugs chamber (easy to set off). They get
great fuel economy. “Love the idea, but don’t want a Honda”
This is also explains the fact that
aftermarket coils (Such as those manufactured by Accel and
MSD) AND increases the spark gap, you will not only have a MUCH
smoother running engine, but you will make more power, not
earthshaking power, but power nontheless.
You can increase the gap on a regular plug, if you add a good coil of the
variable permeability solid core magnet type. Several aftermarket MFG’s are
making them. Some of them are the HEI coil with a tower added to them. IF you
try this with just your your trick plug there is NO guarantee that you’ll get
anything and may actually get worse results. When you increase the gap you also
increase the requirements on the your ignition system. The more power is only
relative to that person in that car.
What the splitfire alledgedly does
change the SHAPE of the spark, achieving more
or less the same flame front speed
probably much less than
more) as if you had gone for an aftermarket big juice
electronic ignition.
There’s much more to an aftermarket ignition system than “flame front”.
The fact is the “profile” of a spark needs to be different for each individual
combustion chamber. And this can’t be done with only a spark plug. Whereas you
might be able to decrease the lag time on one cylinder, the others may very well
be off (or any combination of the cylinders). You need an ignition “system”
that can deliver the correct spark profile for each cylinder each and ever time
a spark is required.
…
Probably the best money spent (minimum) budget is in a good a good coil and good
wires.
For points sake. I have a 86 Ford F250HD with a 460 carberated. This truck is
driven carrying weight. I curved the distributor, replaced the wires, coil,
ignition module and added an aftermarket ignition system. I get 13 miles
highway and 10 city. Before the change I got 10 highway and 8 city. Every
change that took place was based upon testing. I made some changes that had to
undone or reversed. When I replaced the carbeurator this past year I had to
recurve the distributor and change the sparkplug gaps. I have a little over
150,000 miles on this truck and I have more than gotten my investment back.
I betcha - any thing that you notice with these super supper plugs will
disappear after a hundred miles and that I can accomplish more with a set of
Platinum Plugs in a stock ignition, by just playing (testing) with the gap!
MY THEORY on the Money Back guarantee. New plugs make you feel great, you pay
attention to your driving habits for awhile and since less than 25% of people
ever take advantage of a rebate, I’ll make the corellation that after 30 or so
days you have had it so long you forgot about returning them!
Bob Whiles, Redlands CA USA 71561.2752@compuserve.com
86 Jaguar XJ6 S3
Looking for E Type
From: Bob Whiles 71561.2752@compuserve.com
Date: 02 Jun 96 01:02:50 EDT
Subject: Re: SplitFire Spark Plugs
Oh yeah? If the manner in which the combustible gas is ignited
didn’t matter, why, then, did Alfa (plus Maserati and others
too) produce significantly more power from an engine with two
sparking plugs per cylinder?
My point is that there is much to do with the dynamics that take place in the
combustion chamber. AND there is much more to the ignition system and the
requirements placed upon it than just the spark plug. I’m not familiar with the
two vehicles that you mention but I doubt that the only change that took place
with these engine was the drilling of a hole for an extra spark plug. What else
did they do? What if the addition of the secound spark plug was to compensate
for a change another change that was made?
I remember what a friend of mine likes to call the bugs in the software that is
written - undocumented features. Only a passing thought.
And why did Honda take it “out” of the combustion chamber?
Anyway . . .
I have no experience whatsoever with the plugs mentioned, and
the odds are pretty high it is all hype.
Not all hype, as I said they did get some results on the dyno. The car that I
am familiar with did get two HP. But?
They have to get some type of result so that they can make their claims. But?
But they could be
better sine the quality, not only the mere presence, of the
spark is very significant to engine performance.
Your right it is the quality of the spark - spark profile. Can’t be achieved
with a spark plug alone. If you want to know more I think that I can dig up the
names of some good books on the subject.
Do you have “ignition” problem? If you were to buy them what do you expect to
be different about your car from what it is right now?
Bob Whiles, Redlands CA USA 71561.2752@compuserve.com
86 Jaguar XJ6 S3
Looking for E Type
"You can never be too paranoid" "That's why I keep
looking over my shoulder as I type"
From: Geoffrey Goldber geoffrey@interaccess.com
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 1996 01:36:16 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: blown engine
I just blew the engine on my Jaguar. The dealer wants $8000.00 for a new
engine here in san diego california. Plus labor! Someone told me to drop a
V-8 in the auto for less money. Is this reasonable? Any information would be
appreciated!
What kind of a Jag? Blown engines are always tough to swallow. Any ideas
why it happened? Was the quote for a new engine, or a rebuild. There are
some outfits (Terrys, for example) that will rebuild yours for about $3-4
k, but then you have to get it put in locally.
The costs seem high, but more info, please.
Geoff
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 1996 08:02:31 GMT
Subject: Re: SplitFire Spark Plugs
On 2 Jun 1996, Bob Whiles wrote:
It is interesting that Honda doesn’t expose the plug to the mixture at all.
They use a smaller chamber that is connected to the combustion chamber.
FYI: My Renault 8 Gordini used the same “small chamber” idea 30+ years
back. Not to lean out the mixture, but to get room for bigger valves in
the hemi head. The plug was located in a small chamber on top, with two
small channels leading out to each side. Worked pretty well, too, with
approx. 105 bhp SAE on a 1250cc OHV engine, and much more available with
a wild cam. But it was pretty sensitive to ignition: it HAD to have the
correct coil and correct side electrode racing plugs to perform. (Which
was kind of anti-social - slow city driving for more than 10 minutes would
foul the plugs). I tried various other plugs of similar heat rating, but
they were all loosing a noticeable amount of power at high RPM, the Bosch
platinum core type being the best.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: Jason Philbrook jasonph@sidehack.gweep.net
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 1996 11:16:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: New to the list
Greeting jag-Lovers,
I’ve been lurking on the list for a week or two now and have found it to
be pretty interesting and possibly useful.
I’m Jason Philbrook, and I run an ISP in Maine. Have been looking into
getting a used XJ-6 or a coupe or something in the under $18,000 (us)
range. It’s been interestingto see what kinds of problems people have on
the list and where their expertise is. I am 141 miles away from the
nearest dealership, so self-sufficiency is important. Also, if anyone else
from my neck of the woods knows of a good machanic closer, or can do
repair work well themselves, I’d like to hear from you. Of course, with
such a nice auto, I wouldnt expect much would be needed, but you never
know. (My brothers very nice saab needs garage work every couple months)
With ~ $18,000 to spend, I figure a used jaguar would be FAR preferable to a
new pickup-truck (equiped with dog and gunrack) or a (vomit) caravan or
something “practical” like that, and would last and last and last, and
look nice too.
Although I could lease a close-to-new one jaguar and get a better business
deduction, I want to own the car. And the insurance would be way too
high on a new vehicle for someone my age. Thus the need for a second hand
one. Any jag-owners in Maine, drop me a note (jp@midcoast.com).
Thanks!
- -Jason Philbrook
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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 3 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 131
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 1996 15:13:49 -0400
Subject: Re: SplitFire Spark Plugs
Egil Kvaleberg:
It is interesting that Honda doesn’t expose the plug to the mixture at all.
They use a smaller chamber that is connected to the combustion chamber.FYI: My Renault 8 Gordini used the same “small chamber” idea 30+ years
back. Not to lean out the mixture, but to get room for bigger valves in
the hemi head. The plug was located in a small chamber on top, with two
small channels leading out to each side.
Not sure they were the same thing. Many engines have been designed with
separate spark chambers; you can even buy little chambers to add to most
engines, just screw them into the spark plug hole and screw the spark plug
into them. But how many such designs actually achieve the same intended
purpose of the Honda’s, which is to allow the lean mixture in the main
chamber? For this purpose, the spark chamber on the Honda CVCC engine has
its own intake valve and it’s own barrel on the carburetor.
The system gets even slicker when you think more about it. The objective is
to reduce unburned hydrocarbons in the exhaust. The engine uses a very lean
mixture in the main cylinder, which virtually eliminates unburned
hydrocarbons. It uses a rich mixture in the spark chamber – but this stuff
doesn’t end up in the exhaust! During the exhaust stroke, while the burned
lean charge is being pushed out through the exhaust valve, the burned rich
mixture is being backed up into the spark chamber – there’s no exhaust
valve in there. On the following intake stroke, as a new rich mixture is
being drawn into the spark chamber, the burned rich mixture from the
previous cycle is drawn into the main cylinder – to be burned again!
This system is excellent. Unfortunately, it apparently doesn’t take to EFI
very well; for multi-port injection, it would require two injectors per
cylinder. I don’t know if modern Hondas even use it any more.
Back when Honda first developed the CVCC system in the 70’s, they showed
that it would meet emissions requirements that Detroit was unable to meet;
they offered to GIVE the technology to Detroit; and they even constructed a
prototype Detroit cast iron V8 with CVCC heads and demonstrated the
benefits. Detroit told them to get bent, instead petitioned Congress to
ease up on the emissions requirements.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Peter Rebbechi <"REBBECHI PETER"@A1.MEOC02.SNO.mts.dec.com>
Date: Sun, 02 Jun 1996 21:50:00 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: XJ40 - driving bliss
Just wanted to let the members know about a ‘short’ drive I had the other day.
I had to go to Warnambool, Victoria, and everyone knows the best way to go is
via the Great Ocean Road. To the uninitiated, or unfamiliar with Victorian
coastal roads, this has to be the single best ocean drive in Australia. It
adds about 130k to the journey to go this way, (and 2 hrs), but what a drive.!
This road was built in the early 1900’s, with manual labour, carved out of
cliff faces, etc. It is200-300k of winding road depending on when you exit.
It is single lane all the way, and full of buses. Most of the corners have
sheer drops to the ocean, and a few guard posts only to protect the foolish (or
brave). Having said that, it is renowned for being a ‘scratchers road’ for
motorcyclists. The corners dip and weave, and corners cannot be taken wide for
obvious reasons. On the weekends, the road is clogged with cars buses and
bikes. During the week however, one can have a continuous 3 hr drive through
never ending corners! Then turn around and do it all again the other way!.
Using the trip computer, the XJ40 averaged 43 mph over the entire up/down legs
of the drive. Fuel consumption was 21.4 MPG There are only about six or seven
corners that are a worry. The others are what they appear. But it sure is
easy to go in hard and realise you are doing twice the speed you should be!.
There are usually no survivors from people that exit the roadway. (100-200 ft
down to rocks!)
Yes Virginia, there is a way to slide a Jaguar on normal roads!
Haven’t had so much fun for quite a while. For anyone else who ‘needs’ six
hours of mountain racing against oneself, I heartily recommend it. To anyone
visiting Australia, come on down and enjoy this before someone regulates
against it!.
From: ajbeale@squirrel.com.au (A.J. Beale)
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 09:28:50 -0700
Subject: Re: SplitFire Spark Plugs
All the technical people are obviously able to separate the fact from the
fiction as regards the SpitFire spark plugs. For general information,
multi-point spark plugs go back at least 50 years and surface discharge
plugs at least 40. Both had the purpose of eliminating the need for
adjustment and therefore were intended to run longer without misfiring.
Their achilles heel was the fuel, which in those days fouled up the plugs
very rapidly, by comparison with modern fuels. Once the electrical charge
could track through the deposits on the plug, it didn’t fire and so the
plugs weren’t a success. With unleaded fuel, multi point or surface
discharge plugs may last longer than single point plugs, but, on principle I
wouldn’t buy anything where the manufacturers were trying to (as we say
here) “blind us with bulldust”. Alan.
From: ajbeale@squirrel.com.au (A.J. Beale)
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 10:04:02 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ40 Oil Filter
Roger Peng recently wrote about problems in changing the engine oil filter
on his XJ40. I make notes whenever I do a job to help me next time and I
have this one listed as “very easy provided that the car is lifted high
enough at the front and you go under from the front”. However, I have also
noted that only the genuine Jaguar filter should be used, as others are
longer. The XJ40 uses the same filter as the XJ6 series 3, so they aren’t
too difficult to buy and not too expensive. Alan.
From: rs@telerama.lm.com (Richard Shehab)
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 1996 20:41:49 -0400
Subject: New on List with 88 XJ6
I’m new to the list and have been observing for a few days. I think its a
great resource and wish I would have known about it earlier.
I live in Pittsburgh, PA and have an '88 XJ6 with 105,000 miles and it runs
great. I bought it five years ago from a private owner after his lease was
up. Since I’ve had it the only major thing I’ve done is had new breaks all
around and replaced the four modules (circuit boards) for the VCM.
Those modules were expensive ( around 150 dollars each). I hope I don’t
have any problems with them again like the “bulb failure” light flashing on
all the time.
A week ago I had the bushings on top of the front shocks replaced. It makes
a big difference in the ride.
My ride leveler hydraulics don’t seem to respond to added weight in the back
but the ride is still good. The red indicator on the hydraulic reservoir is
showing. Will adding fluid help?
How long are front and rear shocks on this car expected to last?
With 105,000 miles what can I expect to have to repair in the near future?
The Jag dealer, A&L Motors does good work but there expensive and
inconvenient. Does anybody know a good Jag mechanic in the Pittsburgh area?
Thanks for any help on these questions.
From: Jon Jackson jon1@flash.net
Date: Sun, 02 Jun 1996 20:18:46 -0500
Subject: E-type Wanted
I have a friend in the Dallas, TX area that wants to buy an E-type
convertible. If anyone knows of any for sell email me directly and I
will pass the word along.
Thanks
Jon
87 XJ-S and wanting more
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sun, 02 Jun 1996 19:51:25 -0500
Subject: Some guide posts for the XJ6 owner.
I just spent the day taking measurements.
My 1982 XJ6 series III was the test bed. The car has 115,000 miles on it.
Today the temperature peaked at about 94F. The car warmed up to 82C soon
after I started it. In an hour or more of driving around town with top
speed of only 40mph the highest it got was up to 85C (right on the bottom
edge of the “green” arc). When it hit 85C I had just restarted it after
stoping for 15 minutes to get some groceries and then was stoped at a
traffic light for over 3 minutes. The car was over 105F inside when I got
in. In 5 minutes it was “bearable” in 10 minutes it was “satisfactory” in
15 minutes it was “very nice” and in 20 minutes the temperature in the car
was aproaching “cold”.
The engine NEVER got above the bottom edge of the “green” arc (85C). The
air out of the center vent was 40F and the air from the side vents started
at 60F and droped to 52F after 15 minutes and to 50F after 20 minutes.
A properly “tuned” cooling system will keep your engine cool in 100F weather
or even more. If your car is running “in the green” it needs cooling system
work.
This is why I have the heater line plugged during the summer. Any
performance less than this would be unsatisfactory in the summer here in
Texas. And being an engineer who is obsessed with efficiency, there is no
way I will accept the premise that the air needs to be cooled and then
heated!! That is a stupid arrangement.
This winter the AC compressor will be disconnected for the same reason.
I once (for about 10 years) owned Citroens. I still think they are one of
the very best cars ever designed especialy the ID and DS 19. However the
engineering sometimes was typical French. In the case of the AC/Heater on
the XJ6, I am convinced it was designed by a Frenchman. My apologies in
advance to any Frenchmen on the list, but you have to admit that some of the
French engineering is, to say the least, unusual. But, the heater and AC on
my Citroens NEVER ran at the same time unless I willed it so maybe I am
wrong about the French origion of the Jaguar system.
I am in the process of re-designing the system in my XJ6 so that if the
heater is on the AC clutch will be disabled and if the AC is on the heater
water supply will be shut off.
Jim
“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jun 96 13:17:11
Subject: Re: 88 XJ-S ignition light + E-type electrical questions
Ken Redmond :
The car is running fine but the lamp stays on when I am driving. What is this
light supposed to warn you of?
Mike Frank :
Does anyone know where the sending unit for this light is located? Is it part
of the alternator, or something >else I should be looking for?
Unless things have changed drastically since Series II, the ignition light is
wired to a spade connector on the back of the Lucas alternator. It’s supposed
to light up when the ignition is on and the alternator is delivering no
current. Ken, if the lamp stays on but the system voltage indicator is showing
that the battery is being charged, there is either a wiring fault (short) or
the indicator output from the alternator is deceased. If the battery is being
discharged, the light is telling the truth and you need an alternator rebuild.
-
- Jan
From: “Donald R. Farr” d.farr@phx.cox.com
Date: Sun, 02 Jun 1996 19:36:27 -0700
Subject: Hello…
Hello Jaguar lovers.
I saw your post while surfing yesterday, and hopefully my name has been
added to your group.
I currently drive a 1991 Sovereign 4.0 Saloon which is, by far, the best
automobile I’ve ever owned. It is my second Jag and third british car (I
owned and restored a 1953 MGTD in the early 80’s). My last Jag was an 85
XJ6 which I traded when I purchased the 91.
Over the years, the major “downer” for ownership is finding honest and
capable mechanics. If anyone knows of someone in the Scottsdale, AZ area
I’d sure be interested. It seems that every time I take it to the only
dealer in the state that it comes back with more problems…different
problems…than it did when I took it in. In the three years it was
under warranty, they were unable to locate and fix three ghost electrical
problems, which still pop up from time to time.
Other shops I’ve used are seemingly incompetent…and on one occasion I
had to take it back to the dealer to straighten out the things that
another mechanic screwed up by using cheap brake linings and failing to
turn the disks,
The morning after I picked it up from the dealer this last time, I
discovered that the antenna cable had spewed out and it now longer
retracts. Once again it was not that way when it went into the
dealership…but to them it’s “not under warranty” so to have it fixed
means taking it back to them.
I’d like to find a source for parts…and fix it myself if anyone can
direct me to the right place.
I look forward to being a part of this forum.
Donald R. Farr
d.farr@phx.cox.com - e-mail
From: Geoffrey Goldber geoffrey@interaccess.com
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 1996 22:22:32 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: New to the list
Also, if anyone else
from my neck of the woods knows of a good machanic closer, or can do
repair work well themselves, I’d like to hear from you. Of course, with
such a nice auto, I wouldnt expect much would be needed, but you never
know. (My brothers very nice saab needs garage work every couple months)
Jason -
A couple of thoughts - I know of an excellent mechanic in Salem, MA,
(Paul Glynn, Glynn Enterprises, 508-744-3271) lots of odd car
experiences, vintage italian stuff, motorcycles, and he did my Etype
engine for me a few years ago. Can’t speak highly enough of him. But
while that is too far, I do recall when my wife and I took the E up to
Maine, we lost a front wheel bearing somewhere outside of Camden - about
an hour NW of Camden, we found a Saab mechanic who was really into
english cars. Had a TR GT6 in immaculate shape, and loved the Jag. Maybe
that can help.
You might also think of an older Jag - a Mk 2, as something that is
inherently easier to service, although it will clearly need more service
too. Just something for thoughts.
Geoff
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Sun, 2 Jun 1996 23:07:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: XJ40 Oil Filter
Roger Peng recently wrote about problems in changing the engine oil filter
on his XJ40. I make notes whenever I do a job to help me next time and I
have this one listed as “very easy provided that the car is lifted high
enough at the front and you go under from the front”.
Easy enough from underneath, provided the last filter was not put on by
“Monkey Lube”. I have no idea how those guys get their filters on SO
tight.
However, I have also
noted that only the genuine Jaguar filter should be used, as others are
longer. The XJ40 uses the same filter as the XJ6 series 3, so they aren’t
too difficult to buy and not too expensive. Alan.
Ummm, the XJ40 uses the long filter, the same as the XJS. The S3 filter is
a bit shorter, and makes removal bunches easier.�If you put the “correct”
filter on a XJ40, there is not enough room betwwen the end of the filter and
the frame to get a strap wrench past. For this reason, a lot of Jag shops,
dealers and independents alike, use the shorter filter on all applications.
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
From: “Richard Moore” Richard@ee.uts.edu.au
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 14:27:41 UTC+1000 (ES
Subject: battery
I have to relocate my battery to the boot of my Mk2 to enable the
fitting of triple SU’s.Should I put it in a box and vent the box to the
outside?I have noticed that Mini Minors have their battery in the
boot without a vent or battery box,so maybe it is’nt nescessary.
Also is it best to run the cable outside the car in conduit or
through the cabin.
Thanks
Richard
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jun 96 16:41:17
Subject: Ignition story [all models]
Imagine, if you will, the Jaguar horror scenario: waiting in a night rush-hour
queue at a traffic light on a four-lane highway - not, of course, the curb lane
-
- when the engine simply stops dead just before the light changes. The cars in
front move off, the usual motorised anus three cars back starts playing the
“Too Fat Polka” on his horn, the starter whirs and the mighty V12 remains
utterly dormant. Well, it could have been worse - at least it wasn’t raining.
- when the engine simply stops dead just before the light changes. The cars in
Thanks to a kind man just behind, I got the coupe pushed across traffic and on
to the sidewalk (man, that 2-ton car gets up some momentum) and Dr. Wikstrom
can start the diagnosis, pocket torch in mouth. The pump runs and there’s no
firing at all, at all, so it’s probably ignition. Do the easy test first: pull
the centre lead out of the distributor and rig a spark gap, then crank: total
darkness in the finest Lucas tradition.
Leave the ignition on, make-and-break the minus lead (the one with the tubular
connector) on the coil: still nuttin’. My subconscious tells me for no apparent
reason to leave the minus on and twiddle the plus lead: still dead, of course.
Subconscious gets cranky, says “leave this to me, dummy” and touches the plus
spade connector to the terminal screw instead of the spade connector: big, fat
spark, and plenty of it.
Now that the fault has been diagnosed, it’s safe to turn the brain back on and
I unscrew the double spade terminal from the plus screw. This is really dumb;
it turns out that this bit of copper (only Lucas would use plain copper instead
of nice, springy brass) has had its ears bent down at some stage, so the centre
has bowed up and no longer makes contact with the quite narrow shoulder on the
terminal screw - so the only contact has been through the nut, and it doesn’t
take a lot of oil and oxidation to break that. Five minutes with pliers and
sandpaper (I always have a small roll of the self-adhesive type in the tool
box) sees full contact established and the 12 hums into instant life.
Moral: don’t replace the ignition coil just because it isn’t working…
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jun 96 17:12:18
Subject: Re: XJ40 Oil Filter
Randy Wilson :
there is not enough room betwwen the end of the filter
and the frame to get a strap wrench past.
I don’t know exactly what the situation is on the XJ40, but I like to use Fram
replacement filters on my S2 V12s; they have the casing formed into a small
(7/8in?) hexagon on the end, making for painless filter changes with a socket
or ring spanner
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jun 96 17:05:56
Subject: Tool stowage [XJ and later?]
The snippet about my ignition coil adventure reminded me to say something about
the nifty spot I found to stow my tools.
In the XJ, and fo all I know a number of other models, the spare wheel resides
under the boot, outside up, held down by a long screw with a handle. It can
also sit perfectly well with the outside down - only the tyre touches the floor
of the spare well - leaving a nice space for a substantial tool kit, except
the screw is too long.
As it turns out, that’s easily changed. The handle is attached to the shaft
with a 1/8in pin; drive this out and separate the handle. Put the wheel in
outside down, screw the screw in finger-tight, then back out three-four turns.
Put the large washer on and mark the stem at its upper face.
Now undo the screw, check the depth of the socket in the handle and cut that
distance up from the mark. Now put the handle on (first putting that washer in
place!) and drill a 1/8in hole, then drive the pin in and secure it with a
centre punch each end. You can now clamp the spare down firmly “upside down”
and have room for a substantial emergency tool kit, wrapped in ample cloths
against rattling. I also leave a large double sheet of corrugated cardboard on
the boot floor; this not only protects the carpet, it’s also great for lying on
when you need to get under and do something heroic like unscrew an oil filter
that’s been holed by a rock, on your way home from a party in your best
threads…
One day, when all the important jobs have been done, I propose to take a
fibreglass mould of the cavity and make up a neat lift-out bin with lift-out
trays. I hope this will be before anti-pollution, anti-speed, anti-fun laws put
me off the road…
-
- Jan
P.S.
Did it strike you that all the other “brand” clubs are “This’n that Owners
Club” and only Jaguar has Drivers’ clubs? There’s a message in there…
From: I Macfarlane icm@ozemail.com.au
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 16:59:27 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Accelerator Pedal
Can anyone tell me the purpose of the lever/roller assembly immediately
above the accelerator pedal on a 1985 XJ-S.
I was doing some work on my XJ-S near the pedal and noticed the lever, but
it doesn’t seem to do anything. It doesn’t move with the pedal (although it
looks as if the roller possibly could ride on the pedal extension).
Also, it is not shown in the repair manual (as are other things).
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 09:25:45 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: URGENT / HELP
PLEASE help me. When I dropped by a small Jag spare dealer Saturday to check
for a price, the guy asked me if I would like to buy a Series 1 XJ6 with
little rust for a very reasonable price (here in France, this is $ 3000).
It’s a 4.2 and engine has about 25000 miles (the engine).
He said it’s a Series two engine which had been installed by an official
Jag dealer ship (sounds like real money).
There is a problem with the stearing (very sloppy, either the rack of the
stearing pump or something else)
What are week points of this model (I think the year is 1971). How about
consumption ? We already have V12 XJS, so the guy at the gas station
has always a smile on his face when we drive by
We’ll check out the car tonight I think.
Thanks in advance for any information
-
- Matthias
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 09:15:48 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: V12 throttle poti/ alternator
I had two encounters with LUCAS electric stuff over the week-end which
might be of interest to others :
-
-
throttle potentiometer. Kirby’s booklet describes this as a potential
trouble point. Well, it is. I used an analog multi-meter and if slowly
moving the throttle there were various drop-outs. Removed throttle
potentiometer. It’s 5 KO, the problem is that the turn angle is 90 degrees
(like the throttle), any standard poti would have 270. I checked the
price at David Manners, 70 pounds + VAT + S&H. Some major money.
[but it is in stock, so it seems to fail quit often
]
I decided to repair it and this is possible : -
carefully undrill 3 plastic melt points from the bottom. After about 2 mm
you’ll see a screw. Using a small screw driver undo these screws. -
open poti. It’s actually a very good quality poti, (double contacts),
but clearly showed excessive wear on light part throttle position. Using
my VOM I could find several places where the carbon really had gone away. -
Mmmmh. I decided to cut off the 4 contacts, shorten them by about 1 mm
and resolder them, so they would end up on the unweared surface.
This is a pretty sensitive operation, be sure that you feel confident
that you can handle it. You need some good small tools, a fine solder
iron, some PCB cleaner AND a very quite hand.
(having your 2 1/2 year old daughter around checking out what Papa is
doing is not a good idea )
Resolder everything, adjust contact height as before to have the
correct pressure when putting it back together. Also check if the
contacts are really off the weared track. -
Put it back together, check again with a VOM.
-
Smile, since you just saved a bunch of money.
-
Total repair time was about 2 hrs.
However, I think one can do this kind of repair only once, or maybe a single
contact could be used instead of two, giving a potential of a third repair.
Mine had about 84000km (52000 miles) when it failed.
If you are afraid of this repair, drop me a note and we see if I can help you,
maybe you have some bits and pieces you do not longer need and we can make
some exchange or whatever.
And then the alternator. I had the alternator warning light coming on a few
months ago. I checked diodes in the alternator, they were ok. So I thought
it’s the voltage regulator and I bought a used alternator, 40 pounds.
After a few months the alternator developped a very scary noise, so I removed
it again and the front bearing is shot. (It’s a standard bearing and I’ll just
buy 2 new ones to get it fixed).
So I used by old alternator with the voltage regulator from the new one I
bought, everything fine. Yesterday the warning light came on again.
Voltage was about 12.5. When at idle (600 rpm) the light was bright light,
when moving it was still visible and voltage was still dropping. Since I
was suspecting an intermittedant failure I removed the alternator (from the
still hot engine) and I found that one diode had a short. I just used
the rectifier bridge from the other alternator and everythink is fine.
The diode itself is pressed into the radiator and I’m currently looking
for a replacement.
-
- Matthias
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #131
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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 4 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 132
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 08:32:17 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: battery
On Mon, 3 Jun 1996, Richard Moore wrote:
I have to relocate my battery to the boot of my Mk2 to enable the
fitting of triple SU’s.Should I put it in a box and vent the box to the
outside? I have noticed that Mini Minors have their battery in the
boot without a vent or battery box,so maybe it is’nt nescessary.
I remember my Renault 8 had the battery in the luggage compartment with
no special precautions (nor problems). The same goes for the BMW 325. If
you want to take precautions, it would probably be nice to have a
plastic tray to take any acid leaks. And do ensure that the battery is
properly fastened.
Also is it best to run the cable outside the car in conduit or
through the cabin.
I wouldn’t think a conduit is required. I think that routing through the
cabin will be difficult, there are often various trouble spots where the
cable might start to run against something. So route it under the car, and
use good quality heavy gauge cable. Ensure that it is well protected
against:
* Any imaginable contact with moving or vibrating parts.
* Hot parts (mainly the exahust, of course).
* The chassis hitting the ground
Use plenty of good rubber insulated fasteners, and use a high quality
rubber groomet where it enters the luggage comparetment, adding some
sealant to make to waterproof.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: Scott Demaret scott.demaret@ioppublishing.co.uk
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 1996 11:08:14 +0100
Subject: If you can help, Thanks
Hello,
I have a small question(s) that I’d like an answer to if possible. I have a 85’ XJ6
4.2 with what seems to be a problem with the fuel injection system. What
happens is this:
When I purchased the car, it would without prior notice, cur out dead. This
fault was traced to the connection to the water Temp sender on the manifold.
This was fixed, but the car was still pretty rough when cold, when warmed up,
it seemed to be fine, maybe a bit juicy.
2 Weeks later, car started to cut out dead again, and I would have to wait 2-5
mins until I it would start by full throttle depression, and eventually it would
spurt into life.
As a quick fix to this while on holiday, the 2 wires that connect to the Water
Temp. sender were joined together, missing out the sender completely.
Well…
The car now runs perfect, except that it needs a throttle pumping session to
start when cold (Is this because the cold start is not coming in >??). Starting
when warm is excellent, 1 turn of the key.
So the actual question(s) are…
-
Will joining the 2 wires together damage anything ie. ECU
-
Will it cause excessive fuel consumption ? ( At the moment I get around
8-10 MPG around town, and approx 20 MPG at 60 mph… so the fuel
computer tells me. Is this the Norm -
By joining the 2 wires together, what does this actually do ?
If anybody can answer the above, or give advice then THANKS
Regards
Scott Demaret
85’XJ6 Sov
77 450 SLC MERCEDES
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 08:35:01 -0400
Subject: Trip Announcement
This is yet another message announcing a jag-lover going on a trip and
asking if anyone in the area would like to be visited.
My wife Wanda is a schoolteacher and I am self-employed, so we get our
entire summer off. This summer, we’re going where it’s WINTER! We will be
in New Zealand from June 18 to the 26, and in SE Australia from June 26 to
July 23.
After my previous experience with the Rocky Mountain Jaguar Club, I’d
especially like to know if there are any Jaguar club meetings I might be
able to attend.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Graham Watson grahamw@microsoft.com
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 05:40:56 -0700
Subject: RE: XJ40 AC Humidity
According to my book, what the different positions do is alter the
temperature at the evaporator. Max (all off) is just above freezing, one
drop ~4 deg C, two drops ~ 7 deg C, three drops turns off the A/C
completely.
From: GFoster737@gnn.com[SMTP:GFoster737@gnn.com]
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 1996 11:59 PM
To: Jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: XJ40 AC HumidityFrom: tony goodall tony@goodall.u-net.com
Date: Fri, 24 May 1996 23:18:27 +0100
Subject: A/C - humidity - XJ40ON the subject of humidity,
on the 1989 xj40, there are 3 buttons:
Econ, 2 drop, 3 drops (I think), with all off being 1 drop,
lowest humidity.My Q - on 2 drops or 3, what is the difference in the system itself??
is it cycling, adding moisture or what??thanks
tonyDr. A. Goodall http://www.u-net.com/~goodall/I have an 89 XJ40 and according to the owners manual, the humidity level of
the water left in the air is by the “drops”, ie, more drops is more
humidity allowed. No water is added. Punching the mode button for
manual
and revving the fan on “high” gives max cooling and lowest humidity.
Progressing to the right thru one, two, or three drops, gives
progressively
more humidity and puts less work on the AC. The three drop position isbasically a vent position only, with only ambient outside air flowing
thru
the system vents.Hope this helps.
Gerald Foster GFoster737@GNN.com
From: “Himes,John W.” jwh@dw.att.com
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 96 07:39:00 PDT
Subject: Hail Damage
I have heard of a way to remove small hail damage by using dry ice over the
“ding” to “pop” it back out. Does anyone on this list know the proper
procedure? Unless deemed relevant to the list, you may post direct to me.
Any help or ideas will be greatly appreciated.
John Himes
jwh@dw.att.com
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 09:06:24 -0500
Subject: Split Fires and Multiple Plugs
For general information,
multi-point spark plugs go back at least 50 years and surface discharge
plugs at least 40. Both had the purpose of eliminating the need for
Actualy they go back much further than that. The Continental and Lycoming
aircraft engines, among others, in the thirtys used multielectrode spark
plugs. They come from even further back than that I am sure.
In aircraft the use of two plugs was NOT for the control of the flame front,
hell they didnt even know about that in those days. It was done for
reliability since leaded fuels tended to foul the plugs and when you are at
10,000 feet you cant just pull over and tinker with the engine. The engines
have two complete ignition systems so that if one fails you can still get home.
There used to be a plug called the “fire injector” that was offered by
J.C.Whitney that had essentialy four electrodes that surrounded the center
electrode. It worked well in air cooled engines for me but didnt even work
in my 400HP Lincoln. I assumed it had something to do with the cylinder
temperatures in air colled engines VS the temperatures in water cooled engines.
Jim
===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"
John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: david_gruber@fmc.com (DAVID GRUBER)
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 10:00:38 -0500
Subject: Re: xj6 sIII Wheel Problem
Offhand, I gotta wonder what you mean by “tie rods”.
Sorry, I was way off - I believe the offending piece is referred to as a “stub
axle”. It is the shaft that the front wheel bearings are mounted on. After the
outer bearing is a retaining ring, a nut, a locknut, then a cotter pin. The
entire assembly is protected by the dust cap. It is this center stub axle
(hopefully I got the term right this time) that protrudes too far. If it was a
half inch shorter, it would be fine, but that would mean using a thinner locknut
and moving the cotter pin.
A few have suggested using a shim plate to move the wheels out a half inch, but
I’m not really comfortable with that (plus I’d have to have it custom machined).
Regards,
Dave
From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 10:29:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: rear main seal replacement – V-12
I would be very interested to hear from anyone that has had
experience with replacing the V-12 real seal with the engine
still in the car. Kirby’s book makes note of one report that
the seal can be replaced using a tool called Sneaky Pete. I
am familiar with the existance of this tool but never used one.
Looking at the seal and the grove it has to go into, I am skeptical
that this can be done without at least lowering the crank slightly.
Since my car has a GM400 transmission which seems to have an
alignment pilot between the torque converter and the crankshaft
it appears that the rear of the crank cannot be lowered without
removing the transmission. I cna probably get awya with leaving the
old seal alone, but I thought that since I was in there …
Thomas
1987 XJ-S
From: lwalden@ebmud.com (Lee Walden)
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 07:41:56 -0700
Subject: Re: '87 XJE & Other 1987 Jaguar Trivia
At 11:43 1996/06/01 -0400, SteveAv@aol.com wrote:
It’s true that there weren’t very many “true” 87 S3 XJ6 cars made. According
to my 1987 Jaguar Annual Report, “The first few months of 1987 saw an orderly
run-out of Series III 6-cylinder models…” Total Series III vehicle
wholesales were 7,241 for 1987 and probably most of these were XJ12s.
Steve et al…
The car I looked at was built in June 86. The guy wants $8000. Front plugs
swimming in oil, oil leaks from cam covers and oil puddles on top of bell
housing. Owner doesn’t know if stake down kit or main seals ever done. Car
started right up on first try and sounded “good”. Did sound like it might
have a blown exhaust manifold gasket, or the air pump makes more noise than
I remember. Minor damage to front valence panel (hit too many parking
curbs). Interior looks good, and NO RUST anywhere.
I also looked at an 84 XJ6 which is suppose to have an engine problem.
There is evidence of major rusting where the left rear fender meets the
bumper. Headliner is mildewed and coming apart at the sunroof. Seats and
wood look okay. Gasoline smeels from trunk. Owner claims the “shop” told
him he had water in the number one cylinder. He only wants $2500 USD for it.
Just curious, how does Jag identify the “Model Years”? Is a June 86 car
really an 87 model? If so my brother’s 66 Mark X is really a 67 since it
was “delivered” in June 66, and that would make it more valuable as there
weren’t very many 67 Mark X’s.
Lee
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 31 May 1996 20:21:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Splitfire Plugs Save Gas?
Kirby clears something upf or me that I’ve wondered about for years;
<I’ve replaced the plugs in my HE (11.5:1 compression) once in 25,000 miles
<or so, and there was nothing wrong with the ones that came out. I wouldn’t
That’s good. I had a 10.5:1 comprseeon car and had to replace plugs/points
every 10k miles. But it was a 1971 model. now I see how people can get more
miles out of 'em.
LLoyd
From: lwalden@ebmud.com (Lee Walden)
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 07:49:53 -0700
Subject: Re: xke question (speedometer)
Mike wrote…
Steve:
I knew someone would ask. As I recall, the drill was set to spin clockwise,
but it’s been a while. Anyhow, if you spin it in the wrong direction, it’s
like putting the car in reverse: all the parts move, but the speedometer
won’t register. So either way, you can detect a kinked cable or sticky
bearing. If the cable spins smoothly, but the needle doesn’t move, switch
the drill to counter clockwise for a speedo check. When you figure out the
correct direction of spin, share it with us.Mike Frank
Another thing you should do…
Disconnect the speedo cable at both ends. Put a plastic bag over the head
end of the cable and secure it with rubber bands. The bag should look like
a funnel with the cable at the outlet end. Put the other end of the cable
into a empty coffee can or similar “catch basin”. Pour 30W oil into the
baggie and suspend the baggie up in the air to allow the oil to drain
through the cable and out the other end. This may take a couple of days.
It will make the cable “last forever”. Lee
From: lwalden@ebmud.com (Lee Walden)
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 07:57:13 -0700
Subject: Re: SplitFire Spark Plugs
At 22:50 1996/06/01 -0500, Larry Lee wrote:
Having two plugs helps ensure that at least one works every time so that
the cylinder produces power. Many aircraft engines had two plugs per
cylinder for this reason.
Aircraft plugs also don’t have a “setable gap” per se. They have a large
center electrode surrounded by multiple “ears” This also helps to ensure
that the plug will “fire” even when coated with oil. A few years agao, you
could buy these plugs for “normal” car engines.
_
/
| o |
_/
They “look” somethin like this from the “business end”
Lee
From: Bob Whiles 71561.2752@compuserve.com
Date: 03 Jun 96 11:15:33 EDT
Subject: Re: SplitFire Spark Plugs
Greetings Egil,
FYI: My Renault 8 Gordini used the same “small chamber” idea
30+ years back. Not to lean out the mixture, but to get room
for bigger valves in the hemi head. The plug was located in a
small chamber on top, with two small channels leading out to
each side. Worked pretty well, too, with approx. 105 bhp SAE
on a 1250cc OHV engine, and much more available with a wild
cam. But it was pretty sensitive to ignition: it HAD to have
the correct coil and correct side electrode racing plugs to
Thanks for sharing that, I didn’t know that. It seems like there’s nothing new
under the sun sometimes.
perform. (Which was kind of anti-social - slow city driving for
more than 10 minutes would foul the plugs). I tried various
other plugs of similar heat rating, but they were all loosing a
noticeable amount of power at high RPM, the Bosch platinum core
type being the best.
Although I don’t care for Bosch in general (just personal preference) I do like
the design of that plug. They have created a nice “sharp” point for the spark
to jump off of and have protected that “sharp point” from “errosion” by
surrounding it with the insulator. I have ground the center electrode to a
point on plugs before, but the wear on the street is SUPER FAST and the plugs
only last a few miles. I ran the Bosch plugs for a while and use them as a back
up (cleaned,gaped and ready to swap out at the next plug change) for my Ford. I
also like the design of the Bosch insulator - the cone shape. This is one of
the plugs I recommend to friends who are interested in the “super trick”
SplitFires.
My all time favorite is still Autolite.
PS. The splitfire design is nothing new either. Many others in the states have
tried one variation of the design or another in the past.
Thanks for the history, I’ve learned alot about other cars that I have never had
the pleasure to see or drive from fellow Jag Lovers like yourself. I here most
of this form you guys across the sea.
Warm Regards,
Bob Whiles, Redlands CA USA 71561.2752@compuserve.com
86 Jaguar XJ6 S3
Looking for E Type
From: nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu (Nikolai Chitaev)
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 11:40:42 -0600
Subject: Re: Accelerator Pedal
Can anyone tell me the purpose of the lever/roller assembly immediately
above the accelerator pedal on a 1985 XJ-S.I was doing some work on my XJ-S near the pedal and noticed the lever, but
it doesn’t seem to do anything. It doesn’t move with the pedal (although it
looks as if the roller possibly could ride on the pedal extension).Also, it is not shown in the repair manual (as are other things).
Sounds as it is a part of cruise control mechanism. Should work when you
set up a cuise speed and remove your foot from the pedal.
Nikolai A. Chitaev, PhD.
<<87`XJ6 4.2L, EFI, BRG>>
{nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu}
{http://128.252.119.253}
St.Louis, Missouri, USA
From: DavidZ333@aol.com
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 13:13:05 -0400
Subject: Re: RX-7’s/SplitFire Spark Plugs
FYI : Mazda RX-7’s have used 4 prong spark plugs as standard from the start
of the series. Not a double snake tongue but rather 4 equally divided
individual contacts.
I am a British car fan and an XK120 owner- i am also looking for a ever so
solid and reasonable priced MKll; nevertheless, the first and third
generation RX-7’s are wonderful. I cannot imagine a more interesting,
inexpensive, reliable, attractive, or versatile street racer than a first
gen RX-7.
God save the Queen.
From: Ryan Border rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 10:14:36 -0700
Subject: XJ6 Fuel Pump Question
An easy quick question:
I have a new fuel pump for my MK1. It has threads for fittings which
are close to, but not quite, 3/8" pipe threads. Experimentation shows
that the threads are the same as some heater hose fittings that I pulled
out of an old intake manifold. A friend is guessing Whitworth threads
of some type.
Poking through some catalogs, it looks like what goes into here might
actually be banjo bolt fittings. My old fuel pump simply had 1/8"
pipe threads, and I don’t have any of the original fittings for the
car. (sometimes I wish I hadn’t had to scrap my parts car).
Anyway, the question is: This is a brand new pump; does this sound like
the same kind of fitting as I’d find on a later Jag (say S3 XJ6)? Should
I be able to get these at a Jag dealer? The local auto parts stores and
hardware stores weren’t any help at all…
Thanks-
Ryan.
From: JQJF14A@prodigy.com (MR JOHN W SHUCK)
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 13:08:27, -0500
Subject: Hail Damage
I doubt it…the metal has ben stretched usually unless it is going
the opposite way it is going…ex at the edge of the roof, the metal
was formed a certain way…hail hits and moved a portion the other
way the same amount. You can push this back, but only if the
deflection if the same as the formation…etc. Years ago, we were
told the heat up metal and hit with cold rags…all this did was make
a lot of steam…it did not shrink the metal. The metal has to me
made thicker, or the original thickness in te area of the deflection.
There also is a guy how advertises a grinder disc that heats up the
metal and shrinks the metal…I doubt it. You can heat the metal and
bunch it up and make it thicker…These new long metal pry bars ight
work, but if the metal is stretched…big trouble. John Shuck,
Westport, Conn
From: Geoffrey Goldberg geoffrey@interaccess.com
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 14:39:45 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: E type firewall motor mount
I’ve had some trouble with my 64 E type rdstr with the motor mount at the
firewall. Seems that it was tightened too tight, and the welds are
beginning to give. I have heard of others with this, although not very
commonly. Anyone had experience with this, and know anything about
repair? Obviously, the best would be to be able to weld it without
pulling the engine out.
I noticed this from a slight clicking sound over rough bumps. I think the
guy who rebuilt my engine was trying to get rid of it by tightening it
tighter. So now there are slight cracks around the mounting. Otherwise,
all else is fine in the rust free car, with the perfect paint job!
Geoff
From: allporsche@CajunNet.Com (Bart G. Denys)
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 1996 17:55:24 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: XJ6 Wheels - What ?
Dear Jag-Lovers,
Being new to list AND Jaguar I am trying to figure out what wheels can be
fitted to my 1986 VandenPlas. I called several tire and rim places and the
choices appear extremely limited. I could not find any additional info in
the FAQs.
Here are my questions:
What wheels DO fit ?
Are adaptors(?) available that caonvert the British (?) pattern to a
more common size ?
Thank You !!
BArt
From: sfisher@sola.com.au (Scott Fisher)
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 96 18:00 CST
Subject: Comparative XJ40 & XJ6 Filters
Randy Wilson writes…
Ummm, the XJ40 uses the long filter, the same as the XJS. The S3 filter is
a bit shorter, and makes removal bunches easier.=A0If you put the “correct”=
=20
filter on a XJ40, there is not enough room betwwen the end of the filter=
and=20
the frame to get a strap wrench past. For this reason, a lot of Jag shops,=
=20
dealers and independents alike, use the shorter filter on all applications.=
=20
It’s intertestint to me to see that the XJ40 and XJ6(III) appear to suffer=
=20
from almost the same problems That is the body will interfere with
attempts to get the filter wrench on the filter if you use aftermarket
(slightly longer than original) filters. Second, the filter is difficult
to extract from the engine bay. In the XJ6 you have to reach up and in=20
from the front underside and work the filters in and out through a maze of
wires and pipes.
In Australia the most avaliable filters come from a company called Ryco
and cost about $18 ($14 US). My local Jaguar dealer however imports=20
‘Crossland’ (SP?) from the UK and sells them for $9.00 each ($7 US).
These UK ‘aftermarket’ filters are are a little shorter than the Ryco=20
aftermarket filters and make installation much easier. The dealer=20
claims they are the exact same dimensions as the Jaguar part.
Given that XJ6 and XJ40 use the same filter, if crossland filters are
avaliable in the US you may find these a cheap, shorter alternative.
Regards Scott.
____________________________________________________________________________=
Scott Fisher [sfisher@sola.com.au] PH: (08)329-28341. =20
=20
–|\ N
SOLA Optical / \ W +=
E
International Holdings Research Center _.–*_/ S
Adelaide, South Australia v
Joy is a Jaguar XJ6 with a flat battery, a blown oil seal and an=
unsympathetic=20
wife, 9km outside of a small remote town, 3:15am on a cold wet winters=
morning.
____________________________________________________________________________=
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #132
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Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 22:24:31 +0200 (MET DST)
Message-Id: 199606042024.WAA18096@ekeberg.sn.no
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Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #133
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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 4 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 133
Re: Trip Announcement and trip to USA & GB
87 XJ-S Air Conditioning
Re: SplitFire Spark Plugs
Re: SplitFire Spark Plugs
Re: Trip Announcement and trip to USA & GB
RE: Some guide posts for the XJ6 owner.
Re: A/C Expansion Valve
Re: XJ6 Wheels - What ?
XJ 40-Air Con
Re: XJ6 Wheels - What ?
Re: XJ6 Wheels - What ?
XJS Convertible
Parts cleaning
RE: Parts cleaning
Re: XJ6 Wheels - What ?
Paint Code
modern miraCLE
[JagWeb] update
Re: Counterfeit Thai Jaguars?
Re: Some guide posts for the XJ6 owner.
Re: Some guide posts for the XJ6 owner.
Re[2]: XJ6 Wheels - What ?
From: John McDonagh mcdonagj@tui.lincoln.ac.nz
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 1996 10:10:22 +1200
Subject: Re: Trip Announcement and trip to USA & GB
Hi Kirby,
If you intend coming to Christchurch, New Zealand make SURE you
contact me. E-mail me direct and I will give you the details. I will
arrange an intro to the local Jag club of which I used to be a committee member
and can also show you around other interesting Jag related (and other) places in
Christchurch.
I also have an alterior motive as I want to get information off
someone about buying a car in the USA.
I leave NZ on 9 July for six months study leave and my family and I
are travelling first to England (London and South West area) for
three weeks then on to Madison - Wisconsin for four months. While
there I will probably buy a car to use to explore the Great Lakes
area and perhaps drive down and across the USA, via Dallas to LA,
taking about a month on the way “Home” in December.
Unfortunately it will probably not be a Jag as I intend to bring the
car back to NZ and for a Jag saloon this would not be economic while
for an XK or E type the family would not fit.
Classic American cars fetch good prices here though and it may be
worth bringing one of these home. It would also be quite a neat thing to do
- drive across America in a piece of Americana perhaps down Route 66.
If it is over 20 years old it can remain left hand drive on arrival in
NZ and in fact for American cars LHD vehicles have a bit of a premium
over those that have been converted here (the opposite for British
and European though). If it is over 30 years old it also can come in
duty free saving 27.5%
In order to make it worth the shipping costs to NZ the car has to be
worth more than about NZ$12,000 when it arrives. Early 70’s Camaros
and Mustangs fetch well over this as does almost any convertible in
reasonable condition. I have a guy here who would pay up to NZ$20,000
for any model Dodge Challenger in reasonable condition but these may
be harder to find I guess.
If I go back to 1966 or earlier cars I can afford to pay 27.5% more as
I don’t pay duty, so an early Mustang, Cadillac, or Chevy convertible
could also be on the cards.
If anyone has any advice or leads on vehicles like this in the
vicinity of Madison-Wisconsin or Chicago it would be very much
appreciated.
Once I find one I will probably post again asking by which route I
should drive it across the USA!
John McDonagh
Department of Accounting Finance and Property Studies
Lincoln University
Christchurch
New Zealand
From: Jon Jackson jon1@flash.net
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 1996 21:25:55 -0500
Subject: 87 XJ-S Air Conditioning
The A/C in my car has not worked since I bought it. I have been trying
to get it working since summer started. I think all the valves work as
far as directing the air where it is supposed to go. The problem is
that it will not turn on the compressor. I can run a hot wire to the
compressor and it will come on and blow cool air (not cold). Therefor I
am pretty sure the compressor is ok. Can any one tell me how the
electrical system to the compressor works and where I need to look, or
if this is something I should leave to a mechanic. I really don’t like
to do that because they like to get to many $$$$. Any help here would
be greatly appreciated, it is getting quite hot here in Texas.
Jon
From: Quang Ngo qlogic!ngo@netcom.com
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 18:35:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: SplitFire Spark Plugs
On Sat, 1 Jun 1996, A.J. Beale wrote:
A spark plug can’t produce more power except by misfiring less often.
Having tried several “you beaut” spark plugs over the years, I finally came
to the conclusion that they added nothing except cost. Incidentally, do you
know that the workshop manual gives the plug gap for the 3.6 litre XJ40 as
.025 inches - very small for electronic ignition, but apparently not a
misprint. Alan.
0.025 inches? The manual that comes with the my 89 XJ40 shows 0.035inches.
I picked up some Borsch spark plugs from Chief’s auto a couple of months
ago and the guy wrote 0.025 on the box. I thought he got it wrong so
I used 0.035 instead. Last weekend I just replaced NGK ones and they’re
at 0.035. Does the gap size depends on the different spark plugs?
- -Quang (ngo@qlogic.com)
From: Quang Ngo qlogic!ngo@netcom.com
Date: Mon, 3 Jun 1996 18:44:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: SplitFire Spark Plugs
On 1 Jun 1996, Bob Whiles wrote:
My experience has been that IF the Splitfire Plug “Worked”, then the ignition
system (and sometimes A/F ratio) “needed work” and is “making up” for something
else in the system.In testing the Splitfire plug on the dyno, the test showed NO improvement on
the test car until the car was pushed to red line to show that 1 to 2 hp gain.
REMEMBER this was on a well tuned car to start with, because this is the point
that I want to make. The car had been tuned (carbs, distributor curve etc on
the dyno). At $6US per plug and for 2 hp (AT RED LINE) forget it. The “trick”
spark plug is nothing new. And remember that the advertising almost sounds like
the stuff (promises) you read on the back of a software package.What are you now using for spark plugs and their gap, coil, spark plug wires?
EMail Me Back, I’d like to know.
I returned the Splitfire plugs and got some NGK ones. The gap size
I’m using is 0.035 inches (according to the maintenance handbook).
Previously, I had Borsch spark plugs installed at 0.035 inches as well.
However, I notice that the temperature is lower now (87F) on a 105F day
in Fresno, CA. It used to be 88F or 89F. It’s a notch cooler.
The coil and wires are Lucus stuff. The condenser on the coil is kinda
loose, but since everything seems to work fine I haven’t bothered to touch
it yet.
PS. The guys who popped the $6US for the plugs all swear by them. Most of the
opinions (IMHO) are subjective and not based on real facts.
I explained the facts to my friend and he is shocked.
- -Quang (ngo@qlogic.com)
From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 96 23:51:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Trip Announcement and trip to USA & GB
From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
*** Resending note of 06/04/96 12:45
*** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FE21
*** INTERNET - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM *** IBMMAIL - AUIBMSPM ****
Subject: Re: Trip Announcement and trip to USA & GB
drive across America in a piece of Americana perhaps down Route 66.
If it is over 20 years old it can remain left hand drive on arrival in
NZ and in fact for American cars LHD vehicles have a bit of a premium
over those that have been converted here (the opposite for British
and European though). If it is over 30 years old it also can come in
duty free saving 27.5%
John, I dream of being able to do what you are doing…our taxes are
so damn high here, and we cannot drive a LHD car in Sydney as a daily
driver.
I would love to go to the US and buy a late model Jag XJS. Trouble is,
with the tax and the conversion, the cost will triple.
Any other jag-lovers had experience bringing cars over the pacific ?
From: Are Lorentsen are@vinn.no
Date: Mon, 03 Jun 96 16:57:00 PDT
Subject: RE: Some guide posts for the XJ6 owner.
Jim wrote (among other things):
I am in the process of re-designing the system in my XJ6 so that if the
heater is on the AC clutch will be disabled and if the AC is on the heater
water supply will be shut off.
Why don’t you just install a switch on the AC clutch line. Then you would
still have the option of de-humidified warm air. I like that option in our
climate anyway. (By the way, my car “grew up” in Texas. First owner was
Century Hardware Inc., purchased january 12th 1982. When I bought it last
year most of the leather was deteriated. I guess black leather and the sun
in Texas makes leather maintenance very important.)
Are
Narvik, Norway
82, XJ6
are@vinn.no
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 04 Jun 96 02:11:53 EDT
Subject: Re: A/C Expansion Valve
Hi Kirby,
Unfortunate to hear about you expensive air-co experience. Did you replace that
dryer every two years as foreseen ?. When I bought the XJ12 '84 last year I took
it straight to the local “cool” shop, and asked about the dryer, sincee no
maintenance here was apparent from the company maintained car.
He said that the dryer and connection looked as if it had never been apart. So
I ordered new filter + recharge, cost about 300 US dollars when converted from
German Dollars.
Does the American cars have different airco pumps than European ?. Both my XJ6
and Xj12 has an HARRISON compressor, apparently a Genelar Motors division.
Are these pumps piston pumps ?.
If the system has been opened and discharged and left discharged for 9 months
(but connected up to avoid
contaminants) is there anything specially I need to take care of ?
Regards Jeffrey Gram '78 XJC, '84 XJ12 Sov. HE
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 07:38:47 -0400
Subject: Re: XJ6 Wheels - What ?
On Jun 3, 5:55pm, Bart G. Denys wrote:
Subject: XJ6 Wheels - What ?
,Being new to list AND Jaguar I am trying to figure out what wheels can be
fitted to my 1986 VandenPlas. I called several tire and rim places and the
choices appear extremely limited. I could not find any additional info in
the FAQs.
Here are my questions:
What wheels DO fit ?
Are adaptors(?) available that caonvert the British (?) pattern to a
more common size ?
The bolt pattern is actually a Chevy (really) 5x4.75" . The problem is the
offset. It is between a front wheel drive and a rear wheel drive in backspace
so no wheel designed for a chevy will work. However, you could use a chevy(or
other 5x4.75-Caddy?) fwd wheel w/ a spacer to get the correct offset. I do not
know the offset but the backspace should be 5.25"(mounting surface to outer rim
plane), you would need about a 9/16 spacer on a chevy fwd type wheel. Also, if
you want to avoid the risks, DC Cook sells a lot of wheels that will fit your
car, they have a web site w/photos.
Mark
From: “Robert A. Bagramian” robtbagr@umich.edu
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 96 10:48:02 -0500
Subject: XJ 40-Air Con
Can anyone complete the discussions on XJ 40 air conditioning dash
controls by explaining the function of the first button in manual or
automatic mode? Can anyone explain the difference? The second button
is marked as air… Does this button control the vent for inside and
outside air? On my car it seems to direct air either up at the dash
vents or down at the foot level… Bob Bagramian 88XJ40
From: kboetzer@auspex.com (Ken Boetzer)
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 08:01:01 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ6 Wheels - What ?
Dear Jag-Lovers,
Being new to list AND Jaguar I am trying to figure out what wheels can be
fitted to my 1986 VandenPlas. I called several tire and rim places and the
choices appear extremely limited. I could not find any additional info in
the FAQs.
Here are my questions:
What wheels DO fit ?
Are adaptors(?) available that caonvert the British (?) pattern to a
more common size ?Thank You !!
BArt
OOOOOO!,
Dare I say it?!..
Any Chevy wheel will fit.
:-)))))))))
This is true for the US models.
Ken Boetzer
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 11:01:30 -0400
Subject: Re: XJ6 Wheels - What ?
On Jun 4, 9:22am, Bart G. Denys wrote:
Subject: Re: XJ6 Wheels - What ?
On Jun 3, 5:55pm, Bart G. Denys wrote:
Subject: XJ6 Wheels - What ?
What wheels DO fit ? Are adaptors(?) available that caonvert the British (?) pattern to
a
more common size ?
The bolt pattern is actually a Chevy (really) 5x4.75" . The problem is the
offset. It is between a front wheel drive and a rear wheel drive in
backspace
so no wheel designed for a chevy will work. However, you could use a
chevy(or
other 5x4.75-Caddy?) fwd wheel w/ a spacer to get the correct offset. I do
not know the offset but the backspace should be 5.25"(mounting surface to
outer rim plane), you would need about a 9/16 spacer on a chevy fwd type
wheel.
I do not wish to mislead, there are other things to consider too- the stub
axle to wheel center clearance, the length of the studs (must be long enough)
and verfiying that the spacer fits flat to the mounting surfaces(!). Also, I am
not implying that anyone use chevy wheels on their Jaguar, just that an
aftermarket wheel designed for a chevy fwd (or caddy?) MIGHT work on a Jag
w/some help. Better double check my backspace number- measure your stock jag
wheel.
I looked into this while trying to find racing wheels for my Etype.
Good luck! Let us know what you do.
Mark
From: lwalden@ebmud.com (Lee Walden)
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 08:17:38 -0700
Subject: XJS Convertible
Hello all. When were the first “factory” convertible XJS V-12s built?
From: Jim Van Riper jvr@informix.com
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 1996 11:32:03 -0500
Subject: Parts cleaning
I was watching TV (yea, I know. Why wasn’t I under the Jag) and saw an ad
for one of those miracle silver cleaners. You put baking soda in water with
this special plate and then dip gold or silver items in and they are
instantly clean. Truly a modern miracle! Has anyone tried this with aluminum
or brass car parts? What about cadmium coated pieces?
Just curious at this point. The Jag hasn’t come apart (yet).
Jim
Jim Van Riper
95 Pontiac Firebird Formula Convertible - DrkGrn, TanLeather, M6
79 Triumph TR7 Convertible - DrkGrn, TanCloth, M5
70 Jaguar XKE Convertible - Robin’s Egg Blue (ick), BlackVinyl, M4
94 Pontiac GrandAm GT 4dr (wife’s)
From: RLehman x2576 RLEHMAN@npr.org
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 13:25:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: RE: Parts cleaning
I saw it on Mr. Wizard - you know the guy who does sience experiments with kids
on the educational channels. Piece of aluminum foil, some vinegar (I think),
and baking soda. The electrical action (the metal piece with tarnish must
electrically touch the alu foil) takes off the tarnish - electrolysis??
No need to spend the $$ for the fancy silk screened piece of aluminum!
Need to hear from those jr. high school folks out there who drive Jags to
verify this!
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 14:03:11 -0400
Subject: Re: XJ6 Wheels - What ?
Subject: Re: XJ6 Wheels - What ?
What wheels DO fit ?
Ken Boetzer wrote:
Any Chevy wheel will fit.
:-)))))))))
This is true for the US models.
From the offset numbers I was under the impression that a rear drive chevy
wheel was biased too far outboard (too little backspace). It would widen the
track for sure, but wouldn’t it put too much stress on the bearings and mess up
the steering and suspension geometry? I stayed away from the rwd chevy type
wheels on my Etype because they would stick out so far that they’d hit the rear
fenders, but hey, maybe they’d be OK on the XJ-6? Has anyone out there used a
chevy wheel on their Jag?
Mark
From: Brent Eagling brent@filoli.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 96 11:12:32 -0700
Subject: Paint Code
Anyone,
I need help…
I am the proud owner of a 1953 XK120 roadster with 49,000 original miles
in need of a new paint job. The paint is called Dove Grey but I am unable
to get a paint code from my local paint supplier. Anyone have any leads
as to how to get the paint code for this color. I know the cars were
originally shot with lacquer but I want to paint it with enamel this time
around. Is that a bad idea? Should I stick with lacquer? Any info would
be appreciated.
Thanks,
Brent
From: henning@fp.com (Eric Henning)
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 15:02:00 -0400
Subject: modern miraCLE
From: Jim Van Riper jvr@informix.com
I was watching TV (yea, I know. Why wasn’t I under the Jag) and saw an ad
for one of those miracle silver cleaners. You put baking soda in water with
this special plate and then dip gold or silver items in and they are
instantly clean. Truly a modern miracle! Has anyone tried this with aluminum
,or brass car parts? What about cadmium coated pieces?
Don’t need that “special plate”. Aluminum foil lining a pail with warm/hot
water and baking soda will do the same thing. try it!
Eric Henning
Henning@fp.com
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 1996 20:56:24 +0000
Subject: [JagWeb] update
Update for June 4th:
** Guestbook updated - heaps of new signings and questions
** S-type promotional brochure, courtesy Alastair Lauener
** JEC Glasgow region, updated web-pages
** Jag-lovers archives, new batch
News:
** The digest-version of the mailing-list should now include
the included subjects at the top of the file. Thanks goes
to Jennifer Joy for help on this one Should make a lot
of you happy.
** My service provider has upgraded their bandwidth. This
should mean faster turnaround for the mailing-list and
better access to the web-site.
FYI, I will be away from Sunday the 9th for two weeks. I will
be covering the North Cape Rally 1996 on the web. I hope lots
of you will stop by for daily reports at the following url:
http://www.sn.no/home/moydalus/index.html
(also direct link from JagWeb front page)
There are 14 Jags entered, from 120 roadsters up to a '70 XJ6
(incidentally identical to the Beast, so 2 BRG '70 XJ6’s go to
the North Cape :-). A bunch of Healeys, 3 Bugattis, various
Mercs and Porsches etc.
Exciting possibilities for the near future, stay tuned
Nick
<<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>>
<<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>>
The JagWeb http://www.sn.no/~nick/jaguar.html <<<
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 12:26:16 -0700
Subject: Re: Counterfeit Thai Jaguars?
You wrote:
I was just having a chat with a guy here at work that spends a
fair amount of time in Thailand. The cars were
sold for around 8.500 british pounds…Could this be fact?
Well we have heard the same rumor … We have just received a car in(
SIII E roadster ) from Thailand which we are doing up for L55k so I
wonder how much of the rumor is true? I will ask about to seee what the
response is …
all the best tony
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
From: blackmx5@usa.pipeline.com (Lawrence Karpman)
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 19:39:09 GMT
Subject: Re: Some guide posts for the XJ6 owner.
Just returned from Kerrville. Sorry I didn’t get your invite to visit til
today. I am amazed by your temps! In addition to the high engine temps, my
air conditioner is unsatisfactory for Texas heat. It’s NEVER truly cold.
Going to measure vent temps this weekend.
I bought the car in Seattle in '89. It first lived in SoCalifornia before
that. I drove it home to Anchorage on the Alcan and it performed flawlessly
on the 2400 mile trip. I had the compressor replaced in '93 and it’s never
really been cold since. I suspect, based on other unsatisfactory repairs
made by that so-called Jag mechanic, that he never properly serviced the
freon level or handled other repairs or replacements necessary.
How can I TEST for a clogged lower radiator. Is there a way to test without
first pulling it?
Thanks again for the advice. We had a beautiful '96 Buick for the trip and
I’m glad I followed your advice, regardless of the final outcome.
If you are ever in the DFWarea, call me at FlightSafety International, at
(817)282-2557, and I’ll get you into one of our Bell 412 or 212 flight
simulators for the ride of your life.
Best
Larry
From: blackmx5@usa.pipeline.com (Lawrence Karpman)
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 19:40:57 GMT
Subject: Re: Some guide posts for the XJ6 owner.
Ooops! Forgot! How do you plug the heater line???
Larry
From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 16:09:58 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: XJ6 Wheels - What ?
- –IMA.Boundary.212919338
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Ken Boetzer said:
“Any Chevy wheel will fit.”
Not so. While many older mid-sized GM products (and most Chevies) used a 5-bolt
on a 4.75" circle pattern, the full-sized Chevies and other GM products used a
5" circle. Then there are all the Chevies that use(d) four bolt wheels. In
addition, Chevies with a 4.75" pattern used 7/16" wheel studs, whereas the Jags
use 1/2" studs (like the full size Chevies, and most Fords and Chrysler
products.)
Of course, once you find a wheel with the correct bolt pattern and a set of lugs
with the correct thread you still have all the normal wheel issues of diameter,
offset and general configuration. Jaguar wheels aren’t even fully
interchangeable from one XJ-S to another, much less between models. As the
suspension designs and brakes varied over the years the wheels changed to match.
For example, my '88 five spoke XJ-S wheels won’t clear the brakes on the later
XJS with ABS.
A wheel that appears to fit may not seat properly on the axle flange.
Variations in flanges might leave a wheel sitting on a small raised area instead
of the proper mounting surface. Once you find a wheel that clears everything
structurally, has the right bolt circle and the right size lug nuts you can
check the offset. The wrong offset can create clearance problems as the
suspension and steering move through their full travel. Much more dangerous are
the handling changes that result from moving the steering axis by changing the
offset. Finally, the bearing loads can be changed significantly by changing the
offset, potentially to the point that wheel bearing failure can occur due to
abnormal loading.
Changing wheels can improve your looks and handling if done with due care. It
can also cause a lot of trouble if done casually.
MikeC
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From: kboetzer@auspex.com (Ken Boetzer)
Message-Id: 9606041501.AA03583@daffy.auspex.com
To: jag-lovers@sn.no, allporsche@CajunNet.Com
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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 5 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 134
Re: XJS Convertible
Re:Does anybody know a good Jag mechanic in the Pittsburgh area?
Re: XJ6 Wheels - What ?
Re: XJ6 Wheels - What ?
Re: SplitFire Spark Plugs
trivia/ Counterfeit Jaguars?
Last XJS Serial nos.
RE: Some guide posts for the XJ6 owner.
Re: XJ 40-Air Con
Re: Parts cleaning (minimal Jag content)
Re: URGENT / HELP [S1 XJ6]
Index to the Mailing List
Re: XJ6 Thermal Expansion Valve
V12 throttle poti
Series 1 / thanks
Re: Racing wheels for your E Type
Message headings
Copy of: XK120 Dove Grey
Good shop/Happy mail for Class-Tech
From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 16:19:21 -0400
Subject: Re: XJS Convertible
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From: lwalden@ebmud.com (Lee Walden)
Subject: XJS Convertible
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–IMA.Boundary.884919338
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Content-Description: cc:Mail note partLee Walden asked:
“When were the first “factory” convertible XJS V-12s built?”
1988 (as '89 model year vehicles)
Previously Jaguar officially sold convertibles in the US market that
were actually conversions done by Hess & Eisenhardt.I believe there were other unofficial conversions around the world,
but the H&E’s are the only ones I’m aware of that were sold by Jaguar
as new cars complete with sales brochures, owner’s manuals and all the
other stuff prior to the introduction of the '89 factory built ones.The factory ones are easily recognized by the hideous lump in the side
that disguises the fact that the rear windows don’t fully retract.
(Unbiased comment from an H&E owner )MikeC m.cogswell@zds.com
'74 E-Type OTS
'88 XJ-S (H&E Convertible)
'88 Honda Accord (335,000 miles and climbing)
'91 Chevy Suburban (when you really need the room)
'96 Honda Accord (hope it lasts as long as the '88) -
–IMA.Boundary.884919338–
From: Phil ANDREWS@B.PSC.EDU
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 16:23:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re:Does anybody know a good Jag mechanic in the Pittsburgh area?
Richlin Imports in Harrison City (about 25 miles to the east of Pittsburgh,
off route 130) seems pretty good.
- -Phil Andrews
From: kboetzer@auspex.com (Ken Boetzer)
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 13:49:52 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ6 Wheels - What ?
Ken Boetzer wrote:
Any Chevy wheel will fit.
:-)))))))))
This is true for the US models.
From the offset numbers I was under the impression that a rear drive chevy
wheel was biased too far outboard (too little backspace). It would widen the
track for sure, but wouldn’t it put too much stress on the bearings and mess up
the steering and suspension geometry? I stayed away from the rwd chevy type
wheels on my Etype because they would stick out so far that they’d hit the rear
fenders, but hey, maybe they’d be OK on the XJ-6? Has anyone out there used a
chevy wheel on their Jag?Mark
OK EVERYBODY, I’m backing down here!!
As I said to Kirbert, I read the first inquiry early in the morning when my sense
of humor is most warped. My reply was lump based humor.
See the :-)))))))
That’s laughing! (In my computer anyway)
OK, I failed at humor. let’s all watch a little Monty Python.
I typed in a bunch of technical whatnot but it was essentially a rehash of what
was already said, so I deleted it.
In some neighborhoods of San Jose, wheels that stick out are very popular.
Ken
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 17:43:14 -0400
Subject: Re: XJ6 Wheels - What ?
On Jun 4, 1:49pm, Ken Boetzer wrote:
Subject: Re: XJ6 Wheels - What ?
Ken Boetzer wrote:
Any Chevy wheel will fit.
My reply was lump based humor.
In some neighborhoods of San Jose, wheels that stick out are very popular.
Ken
Yes, I caught the lump humor but thought I better be careful not to continue
w/it … you know how things get around here.
How is that? :-))))))))))?
Mark
Well then, downtown Detroit has something in common w/San Jose.
From: ajbeale@squirrel.com.au (A.J. Beale)
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 09:30:25 -0700
Subject: Re: SplitFire Spark Plugs
0.025 inches? The manual that comes with the my 89 XJ40 shows 0.035inches.
Interesting! My workshop manual pages are the latest update and the
specified plug gap of 0.025" is correctly converted from 0.64mm. The only
plug recommended for the 3.6 L engine is Champion RC9 YC, but there must be
exact equivalents. Perhaps someone may know if there is something special
about this plug which necessitates such a small gap - I know there are plugs
with built-in capacitators and, by the number, this could be one of them.
Alan.
From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 96 19:40:33 EDT
Subject: trivia/ Counterfeit Jaguars?
From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
*** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FE21
*** INTERNET - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM *** IBMMAIL - AUIBMSPM ****
Subject: trivia/ Counterfeit Jaguars?
Nick, if you can find out a contact name to buy these, then please
advise, as I’ll buy a plane ticket, head over and buy one straight
away…a classic mercedes 300SL shape , or even a fake XK120/XK150
with a modern engine…not for the purist, but what a hell of a new
car to buy…beats a toyota corolla, and if your price quoted is
correct, will be alot cheaper than a corolla here in Oz…my hearts
beating double speed already at the though of it…
REGARDS…Shane
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Date: Tue, 04 Jun 1996 13:17:39 +0200
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Subject: trivia/ Counterfeit Jaguars?
Sender: owner-jag-lovers@sn.no
Precedence: bulk
I was just having a chat with a guy here at work that spends a
fair amount of time in Thailand. He was telling me about this
factory out in the jungle that hand builds counterfeit Jaguars
and Mercedes 300 SL’s. Apparently they hand beat all the panels
and fit top of the range Toyota engines. He had visited the factory
once and said the cars looked very nice indeed, wood fittings
and all the trimmings. I asked if he could get any photos of
them, but this would apparently be rather risky. The cars were
sold for around 8.500 british pounds…
Could this be fact?
Yours in amazement,
Nick
Nick Johannessen @ Work email: nick@sn.no http://www.sn.no/home/nick/
Phone: +47-2207 3981 Cell : +47-905 95132 Fax: +47-2207 3444
From: “Lauren E. Pratt” pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 96 17:32:19 PDT
Subject: Last XJS Serial nos.
Does any one know the last serial nos. of the various
models of the XJS to come off of the production line?
Thanks in advance
Cheers Lauren
Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 6/4/96
Time: 5:32:19 PM
This message was sent by Chameleon
From: ewilliam@cisco.com (Evan Williams)
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 10:28:33 +1000
Subject: RE: Some guide posts for the XJ6 owner.
Jim wrote (among other things):
I am in the process of re-designing the system in my XJ6 so that if the
heater is on the AC clutch will be disabled and if the AC is on the heater
water supply will be shut off.
Air conditioning on a wet winters day is a mandatory, it suprises me how
many people will try and drive while rubbing a hole in the fogged up
windscreen in traffic! Obviously on a death wish.
Are
Narvik, Norway
82, XJ6
are@vinn.no
Regards
Evan Williams
Account Manager Federal Region
Email: ewilliam@cisco.com
Phone: 61-6-2180505
Fax: 61-6-2574922
Mobile: 61-0419236992
Page 61-24306381
Cisco Systems Australia
Patience is a virtue afforded
those with nothing better to do
From: ewilliam@cisco.com (Evan Williams)
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 10:42:03 +1000
Subject: Re: XJ 40-Air Con
Can anyone complete the discussions on XJ 40 air conditioning dash
controls by explaining the function of the first button in manual or
automatic mode?
The manual mode is like any average car where you set the heat and thats it.
utomatic is like climate control and when set to the temp you like will
maintain that temp no matter what the outside temp is.
Can anyone explain the difference?
The second button
is marked as air… Does this button control the vent for inside and
outside air? On my car it seems to direct air either up at the dash
vents or down at the foot level… Bob Bagramian 88XJ40
The Air button assist’s demisting.
Regards
Evan Williams
Account Manager Federal Region
Email: ewilliam@cisco.com
Phone: 61-6-2180505
Fax: 61-6-2574922
Mobile: 61-0419236992
Page 61-24306381
Cisco Systems Australia
Patience is a virtue afforded
those with nothing better to do
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jun 1996 20:50:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Parts cleaning (minimal Jag content)
At 11:32 AM 6/4/96 -0500, you wrote:
I was watching TV (yea, I know. Why wasn’t I under the Jag) and saw an ad
for one of those miracle silver cleaners. You put baking soda in water with
this special plate and then dip gold or silver items in and they are
instantly clean.
Jim:
This is really an old housekeeper’s trick. You don’t need to spend a lot of
money on the TV solution: all you will get is an aluminum plate and some
baking soda. What happens is an electrochemical reaction between the plate,
the silver piece you want cleaned, and the baking soda. The result of the
reaction is that the silver de-oxidizes, while the aluminum does the
reverse. If you want to try this, use a piece of aluminum foil instead of
the ‘magic plate’. Heating the solution on a stovetop will accelerate the
reaction.
This works with silver, copper or brass. It will not work with aluminum. You
probably won’t have much luck with steel, chrome, or cadmium plated objects,
but it costs little to try.
Gold doesn’t tarnish, but it can get dirty. In the case of gold, it is the
natural cleansing action of the baking soda which disolves surface dirt,
rather than the magic action of the plate.
My other hobby is horology. I occasionally use this technique on badly
tarnished clock plates and wheels. I simply disassemble the clock and boil
the brass parts in an aluminum pan, filled with a weak acid such as vinegar.
The parts come out dull, but untarnished. I neutralize them by washing in
baking soda, then polish them. I have clocks which have run ten years
without problem after a treatment like this. Works every time, even on heavy
tarnish.
I’m somewhat curious about the chemistry of all this, if anyone knows.
Mike Frank
1969 Etype 2+2
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 5 Jun 96 12:12:55
Subject: Re: URGENT / HELP [S1 XJ6]
Mathias Fouquet-Lapar :
There is a problem with the stearing (very sloppy, either the rack of the
stearing pump or something else)
The first thing to look for when the steering is sloppy, Mathias, is the rack
mounts. Get the car up on ramps or a curb so you can see the rack underneath,
then start the engine and get somebody to turn the steering wheel about 1/4
turn to each side. The rack must not move visibly; the standard mount allows
for a slop of about 0.3 mm and the orange polyurethane aftermarket bushes have
no slop at all and produce wonderfully precise steering.
If the bushes are dead and gone or incorrectly assembled, the rack may slop as
much as 5 mm, although as little as 2 mm will produce horribly uncertain
steering (guess how I found out…).
Replacing the steering rack bushes is messy and laborious but not difficult.
Good luck!
-
- Jan
From: Kroppe kroppe@mich.com
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 1996 21:28:27 -0400
Subject: Index to the Mailing List
Nick has done it again! Many thanks Nick (and Jennifer) for this
excellent improvement to the list. When I saw the index for the
first time I was elated. Positive step forward.
B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6
From: Kroppe kroppe@mich.com
Date: Tue, 04 Jun 1996 21:31:49 -0400
Subject: Re: XJ6 Thermal Expansion Valve
Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com wrote:
Does the American cars have different airco pumps than European ?. Both my
XJ6 and Xj12 has an HARRISON compressor, apparently a Genelar Motors
division.
Yes, American cars have the same pumps. I bought a new one for my '82 XJ6
last summer for US$125, reconditioned, at a local “cool” shop.
B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 07:42:54 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: V12 throttle poti
Hello, this mail is to Jan, but for some reason it bounced back, so I try over
the list. The mail error was :
550 jan_wikstroem@acp.com.au… Host unknown (Name server: acp.com.au:
host not found)
Anyhow here is the message
Hey, Mathias, of course you can use a standard pot - just get a linear with 5
k
over a 90 deg arc, that is, 270/90=3, so you need 15k.
:3+)
- Jan
I thought about this, but you see
+------------------+
1 —+ ±— 2
±-----------------+
^
|
3
the resistance between 1 and 2 is 5 k and as far as I have figured out until
know all pins are used in the ECU. I’m looking at other alternatives as
well, like using an optical pickup and an electronic potentiometer.
Thanks !!
-
- Matthias
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 08:13:46 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Series 1 / thanks
Thanks to all who replied to me concerning the potential aquisition of
a Series 1 XJ6. I checked the car out yesterday and here are some of the
facts
-
- very recent, nice paint-work. light blue. So the exteriour was very
impressive, also good chrome
- very recent, nice paint-work. light blue. So the exteriour was very
-
- engine more or less unknown mileage/history. First I was told that
the engine had been swapped by a main Jaguar dealer, but the only
invoice in the car’s paper work was for an car radio. It also did not
look very new, but it had this AED which is a feature of later cars
I think.
- engine more or less unknown mileage/history. First I was told that
-
- The steering rack. ha ha. The guy drove us (me and wife) around a
few blocks saying, ahh well, steering is not very good. Of course I
insisted, boy what an experience. Steering was a very loose indication
on which lane the car would ride. The rack bushings are completely
gone. Since the PO brought in the car for service, he must have been
actually using this car.
The bushing would not be a problem, but then it seems that the steering
pump or the valves also have a few problems.
- The steering rack. ha ha. The guy drove us (me and wife) around a
-
- brake rotors on the IRS almost gone. Real nice job to replace them
-
- the transmissin BW12 would engange in reverse gear and slips before moving
off. Overall, I found the transmission pretty noisy and since our speed
was limited to 20 mph (see above “steering”) I did not feel very comfortable
Trans fluid looked ok.
- the transmissin BW12 would engange in reverse gear and slips before moving
-
- the interiour was not very clean, but I think a few week-ends of work
would have done it.
- the interiour was not very clean, but I think a few week-ends of work
-
- rust. This was the final decision. The front jacking points only have
a very loose connection to the rest of the floor pan. The rear jacking
points and radius arm points are also severly affected. I could poke
my finger through one piece without much effort. The guy where I had
my XJS in repair told me that a proper repair is between 400-500 pounds.
Of course the shop where the car is said, oh no, that’s an easy one.
You’ll need only a few bucks for parts and it’s easy. I was not
convinced. Someone already had applied large amounts of fibre compound
to several areas of the floor pans.
Rust also on the lower door portion (where the new paintwork did not
reach …), so the question would be how well the car was prepared before
it was painted. Someone suggested checking the trunk by taking out the
spare tire, but not too much rot there.
The front shock absorber mounting also had severe rust and will penetrate
sooner or later in the egine bay I guess.
- rust. This was the final decision. The front jacking points only have
-
- new exhaust and new battery. If you’d seen how the exhaust was “fitted” …
-
- the car had power windows. Somewhere I read the Series 1 never had power
windows, this was definitly had.
- the car had power windows. Somewhere I read the Series 1 never had power
-
- some rear noise and leaking pinion oil seal. NO rust in this area, eveything
protected by a deep oil layer
- some rear noise and leaking pinion oil seal. NO rust in this area, eveything
And of course, “Saturday we have someone who surely will buy the car. It’s
in such good shape”
Well, I stepped back. Too many unknowns and blended by this nice paintjob
I did not feel comfortable. Was I right ? Is this a “standard” condition
for a Series 1 car ? Am I wrong ?
Thanks again for all your friendly help
-
- Matthias
ps
depressed I went off yesterday night and finally bought me an air
compressor for my workshop.
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 08:32:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Racing wheels for your E Type
On Jun 4, 6:27pm, James A. Isbell wrote:
Subject: Racing wheels for your E Type
I have a 70 2+2 that I want to race but it has wire wheels and I dont think
they can stand up to racing.
What did you do?
Jim
Well, nothing yet. I am still waiting for info on those alloys. Info anyone?.
I did find a couple sources for 15x7 Minilites here in US (and in the UK) at
about $170(seems fair). They can be ordered bolt on or splined. They are period
looking but I would still prefer the Lightweight style/Dtype wheels. I do have
what I think is the only surviving set of original factory 15x5.5 racing wires
(painted), they came w/ the car. I won’t race these - too heavy & narrow.
Interesting idea on welding steel wheels onto stock splined centers.
The cool thing that did just happen is that I got a set of XJ-12
uprights/hubs/4pot calipers w/vented rotors- for free(thank you Kip)! These
will be going on the E type w/ GTJ steering arms and drop kit. As soon as I can
afford it I will replace the XJ-12 calipers w/ Wilwoods (lighter).
All this and I’m still a lousy driver.
For anyone wanting minilites/race wheels here are some sources;
On Jun 3, 4:22pm, Bob Gessler wrote:
Subject: Wheels for your racing E Type
I take pleasure in offering oruiginal MINILITE wheels for your car. CAll me
at 615-244-0682 if your are interested. I am a direct importer of the
original MINILITE wheel from England. This is the original one and the one
PANNASPORT coppied. It comes with the center cap and all lug nuts. We will
be pleased to arrange a quote at your convenience. I monitor AOL most ofter
and can be reached at GonMunn@aol.Com
– End of excerpt from Bob Gessler
On May 20, 8:01am, Andy Green wrote:
Subject: Re:E Type alloys?
Do you know of any replica Lightweight Etype wheels?
Mark,
I’ve had a response from DC Cook.
They tell me that the wheels you mention are readily available from them at a
cost of stg210.00 each (rims only) and a shipping cost of approximately
stg125.00 depending upon your location within the USA.
If you require any further information, please mail back.
Regards
Dave (Cre@ivity.demon.co.uk)
On Apr 11, 3:06pm, Irv Korey wrote:
Subject: Re: Jag wheels
Mark,
the US importer for Minilite TPR. Call Brett Johnson at 800/553-5319.
Brett is a Triumph guy from Indianapolis. there is a Jag listing,
15x6.5 to fit E types, list price is $209.Irv
On Apr 20, 10:36am, ian watkins wrote:
Subject: Re: E-type (S1) racecar
Have you considered MiniLites, or minilite replicas?We can supply the following to suit your car:-
Replica 7 x 15 @ GBP 95.00 each
Replica 6 x 15 @ GBP 84.00 eachGenuine MiniLite 6.5 x 15 @ GBP 116.00 each
All the best
Ian Watkins
EXPORT SALES **VINTAGE TYRE SUPPLIES *
ENGLAND *- Tel: 44 1590 612261 *
- Fax: 44 1590 612722 *
- ian@vintage.ftech.co.uk *
http://www.ftech.net/~vintage
I think that all right thinking people on this list are sick and tired of
being told that ordinary decent people are fed up w/ being sick and tired.
I’m certainly not and I’m sick and tired of being told that I am.
M.P.
From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@compuserve.com
Date: 05 Jun 96 09:01:03 EDT
Subject: Message headings
Great to see the summary at the start. Can all please use model of car as first
entry on the header? It is a plea that has been made (by others) many times,
and now will really help a lot. Regards, John Elmgreen
From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@compuserve.com
Date: 05 Jun 96 09:01:59 EDT
Subject: Copy of: XK120 Dove Grey
- ---------- Forwarded Message ----------
From: John Elmgreen, 100353,1733
TO: Brent Eagling, INTERNET:brent@filoli.com
DATE: 5-6-96 10:59 PM
RE: Copy of: XK120 Dove Grey
Dear Brent, Getting the original colours is not easy. Even when you get codes,
I have found that local paint suppliers do not recognise them, so they can be
useless. The original code number was J861 (Pinchin Johnson). The JDHT ICI
codes are 2395, 2679, 2929 (apparently the blend changed over the years, maybe
like BRG). Not listed on DuPont or PPG lists that I have. The best way is
either to find someone with an original colour chip (VERY difficult), or find
some paint on the car to match e.g. under the dash, or in the boot. Jose del
Pino had a similar problem recently - I will copy this to the XK group and see
whether they can come up with more. do you want me to add you to the (small) XK
group? By the way, I thought it was almost impossible to get the original
cellulose paint, but yours would have been synthetic enamel originally anyway
(being after late 1952). What are the numbers on the ID plate? I would love
some photos if the car is original as it seems (esp of details).
To XK group: Brent has a 1953 XK120 OTS to be repainted Dove Grey - how
to match? Does he use lacquer, or modern paint?
Regards, John Elmgreen
From: David Covert davecove@microsoft.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 06:53:22 -0700
Subject: Good shop/Happy mail for Class-Tech
Gotta send some happy mail here…
While the engine was out of the car, I decided to have the engine wiring
harness re-wrapped. I called around and found 2 places in the US that
would rewrap my harnesses (there may be more). One shop wanted $100 to
wrap the big one and another $60 for the other 4 smaller ones. The
second shop, Class-Tech in Bend OR, advertises that they build
‘authentic reproduction Ford wiring harnesses through the 60’s’. The
manager there, Chris, said that he could get one of his guys to do my
harnesses ‘on the side’ and that he would treat me right on the price.
He asked that I send a good sample of my old wrap in a bag along with
the harnesses so that he could get material and color tracers right.
I got the harnesses back last night. What a fine job! The material and
color was exactly like samples taken from the cabin side of the
firewall. The wrap was tight and exactly where I wanted it to be. They
wrapped the main engine compartment harness and 4 other harnesses for
$59 including return shipping. Wow!
If you need a harness wrapped… I would recommend you give these guys a
call…
Class-Tech
62935 Layton Ave.
Bend, OR 97701
800/874-9981
ask for Chris
Dave Covert
…Particle Man, Particle Man, doin’ the things a particle can…
They Might Be Giants
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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 6 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 135
AC on wet winter days.
SIII XJ12 A/C and Heating
Re: Racing wheels for your E Type
Re: SplitFire Spark Plugs
Re: XJ6 Wheels - What ?
Base Drive Resistor on SII Xj6
Re: Copy of: XK120 Dove Grey
Re: AC on wet winter days.
Hail Damage
Re:E-Type/Racing wheels
Over size pistons for a 4.2
16" Tires for XJ-S
Re: AC on wet winter days.
Re: Hail Damage
Re: A/C Expansion Valve
Re: Accelerator Pedal
E-Type wires
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 09:53:34 -0500
Subject: AC on wet winter days.
Air conditioning on a wet winters day is a mandatory, it suprises me how
many people will try and drive while rubbing a hole in the fogged up
windscreen in traffic! Obviously on a death wish.
At least here in Texas, this is not true. Here warm air will do a fine job
of demisting. There is no need for AC. After all, what did cars do before
1958? They used WARM air to clear the windshield. Warm air will hold more
moisture and therefore will clear the fog from the windshield. If there is
a death wish it is those who want to freeze to death with the AC running.
Jim
===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"
John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: “mark (m.d.) roberts” markdr@nortel.ca
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 11:29:00 -0400
Subject: SIII XJ12 A/C and Heating
I have proof that the Artfull Bodger does exits, and
has visited our '88 XJ12 A/C - heating system.
First a disclaimer, the environment control system
in our car is the Delanair III system, only used
on the XJ12 cars from 1987 to 1992, and XJ-S cars
from 1987 to ?
Symptoms: Upper blowers oscillated in defrost mode,
and didn’t work at any of the other times.
Temperature controls only worked once the
mode switch was set to defrost.
The local dealer told the PO that the A/C cpu was shot,
and a new could be had for $900 US, or a used one for
$450 US. After getting the car, I figured that if the
cpu was fried, then maybe I could fix it for cheaper
than $450. Michael Neal helped out by sending up
three “bad” cpu’s from XJ40’s he swapped out under
warranty. Thank-you very much Michael ! These did not
seem to change anything, but I could not find anything
obviously wrong with the cpu…then winter set in.
In the spring, two weeks ago :-), the system stopped
working completely. There must be something else
wrong with the system. Pulled the right side of the
centre console off, and the air duct for the feet off,
and voila, the connector to the mode switch was hanging
in space ! Upon closer inspection, the connector, 8-pin,
had been cut off, and another from something else was
pig-tailed and taped on. Problem is that this new connector
is not quite the same, and once plugged into the back
of the mode switch, there is no positive lock…over
time the connector will just fall out due to vibrations
and gravity. Surely the Artfull Bodger is responsible
for this. Going over the PO’s service receipts, he seemed
to have lots of problems with the A/C over time, and
each time it cost him about $100 !
Plugged the connector in, and the A/C seems to be working
fine; servos, blowers and temperature control all operational.
So I sent the three other cpu’s back to Michael…
Then the radio stopped working. Seemed like a loose power,
or ground acording to how my wife described its operation.
Looking from the drivers side with the centre consol and
foot duct off seemed to indicate that all the connections
were fine…but what is this green fluid I see…oh-no !
Luckly this is a Delenair III system, so taking the leaking
heater core out should only be a 2-3 hour job by a shadetree
mechanic, not the rip-the-dash-apart job required in the
earlier XJ’s…wrong !
I remembered that the PO had the heater matix replaced
before…three years ago, charged 17.75 hours and
total $1800 CDN ($1400 US)…ouch ! This didn’t look
right ! So, following the service manual, took the
heater inlet/return pipe connection cover plate
off, and …horrors…the Artfull Bodger had been
in here as well. The heater pipes had been brazed to
the heater matrix, a la the earlier style system. It
all made sense now. The shop that replaced the original
heater, took the dash apart to replace the matrix,
and upon discovering that there was a much easier
way to do it, after the heater was out, proceeded
to braze the inlet/outlet pipes onto the new matrix
to prevent any leaks from the new matrix at those
pesky connections, hence the brazing, and the total
shop hours. I don’t think I’ll be taking the car
to that place again.
I have temporarily bypassed the heater completely
with a piece of copper tubing, and a couple of right
angle bends, just in front of the firewall. This
should work for a couple weeks until I can get a
new matrix, and cut the other one out.
Oh, the radio was fixed with a good cleaning, and
a jumping of one copper trace that had corroded away
on the pc board. It seems that the common sysmptom
of a leaking heater matrix is a fried radio; Jaguar
will even sell you sheild for the back of the radio
to prevent just an occurance.
I hate having to fix someone elses fixes !
Regards, Mark Roberts Phone: (613) 763-2924
Ottawa, Ontario, CANADA Fax: (613) 763-3970
1988 VDP - SIII V12 email: markdr@nortel.ca
1963 3.8L E-Type Coupe - 15 years into a 3 year project
From: “Ed Freige” edf@borrego.studio.sgi.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 09:44:12 -0700
Subject: Re: Racing wheels for your E Type
Mark McChesney comment - " Interesting idea on welding steel wheels onto stock
splined centers":
In 1975 I found a set of wire wheel splined centers, machined off the entire
outer lip which had the provisions for spokes and welded the center to a flat
1/2 in thick circular ring, spun and machined the adapter (for balance and
trueness) on a stub axle in a lathe, drilled a six bolt pattern to mount six
bolt GM wheels to the welded assembly.
The reason for the six bolt pattern was to take advantage of the large hole
in the center of the GM six bolt wheels in order to clear the spline assembly.
Once the alloy wheel was bolted to the adapter the assembly was then
put onto the splined axle and secured with the knockoff. The wheel then
functions as a knockoff and the availability of alloy wheels with that
pattern is staggering.
I ran this arrangement for about 14 years, but with the engine conversion,
the splined hub could not take the torque generated by the LT-1 and I
basically friction welded one of the splined hubs to the stub axle . So I
converted to the basic 5 bolt hub for more durability and less unsprung
weight when compared to the adapter combo.
Cheers!
Ed Freige
'66 E coupe w/LT-1
'85 XJS bone stock
…
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 12:11:36 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: SplitFire Spark Plugs
On Mon, 3 Jun 1996, Lee Walden wrote:
At 22:50 1996/06/01 -0500, Larry Lee wrote:
Having two plugs helps ensure that at least one works every time so that
the cylinder produces power. Many aircraft engines had two plugs per
cylinder for this reason.Aircraft plugs also don’t have a “setable gap” per se. They have a large
center electrode surrounded by multiple “ears” This also helps to ensure
that the plug will “fire” even when coated with oil. A few years agao, you
could buy these plugs for “normal” car engines.
Lee,
Right you are, but that’s not really the point here. (Aircraft engine
plugs can also foul from carbon if the pilot doesn’t properly adjust
mixture for changing altitudes.) The portion of my post you excerpted
had to do with multiple plugs for aircraft engines, which are, like plug
design, intended to get the highest possible reliability–a vital
concern for aircraft, but somewhat less so for autos. (Yes, I know, we
all want totally reliable autos, too, but let’s face it, an auto engine
failure doesn’t tend to drop you out of the sky!)
Again, multiple plugs for high-speed auto engines are another matter
entirely. It’s a matter of completing the combustion in the available
time, not reliability.
The arguement for SplitFire plugs started out, as I recall, about the
plug providing a (rather undefined) “better” spark. I’m not sure now how
it metamorphosed into a discussion regarding multiple plugs, unless it
came out of an assumption that the SplitFire plugs always produced two
sparks–something I seriously doubt they regularly do–and equated that
with dual plugs. Regardless, these are two separate issues.
To return to the cathouse, I don’t plan to put SplitFire plugs in my
XJ4.2, SII, nor do I plan to invent a dual-plug head for an engine that
doesn’t run at 10,000 RPM.
Larry Lee
From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 19:54:50 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: XJ6 Wheels - What ?
On Tue, 4 Jun 1996, Ken Boetzer wrote:
Here are my questions:
What wheels DO fit ?
Are adaptors(?) available that caonvert the British (?) pattern to a
more common size ?OOOOOO!,
Dare I say it?!..
Any Chevy wheel will fit.
What? Lump wheels on a Jaguar? Heresy! Burn at the stake!
Mumble…never heard such nonsense in my life…mumble…ruin the road
holding…mumble…depreciate the value of the car…mumble…
Gunnar
PS.
SPECIAL NOTE for the humor-impaired:
This message was intended to be humorous. If you didn’t find it humorous
or if it upset you in any way please consult a doctor or a comedian.
DS.
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar XJ6 4.2 Sovereign
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | Vicki who? What .sig virus?
From: Curt Onstott onstottc@ucs.orst.edu
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 11:15:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Base Drive Resistor on SII Xj6
Does anybody know what the purpose of the Base Drive resistor is? This is
the little metal thingy located next to the spark coil and ballast
resistor. Mine is busted and I’m not sure what it connects to.
- -To err is human. To err faster and more efficiently requires a computer.-
Curt Onstott - Windows/DOS/PC Specialist - Information Services - Oregon
State University. - (541) 737-1483 - Office: Kerr 217
From: Geoffrey Goldberg geoffrey@interaccess.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 13:28:53 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Copy of: XK120 Dove Grey
RE: Copy of: XK120 Dove Grey
Dear Brent, Getting the original colours is not easy. Even when you get
codes,
I have found that local paint suppliers do not recognise them, so they can be
useless. The original code number was J861 (Pinchin Johnson). The JDHT ICI
codes are 2395, 2679, 2929 (apparently the blend changed over the years,
maybe
like BRG). Not listed on DuPont or PPG lists that I have. The best way is
either to find someone with an original colour chip (VERY difficult
)
I had the same problem with looking for Etype original colors. Jim
Koukoushka (sp) has the original paint chips. From there, you cget the
numbers, and play the the-numbers game.
Reegarding lacquer vs. enamel - I ahve a very nice urethane on my E,
which holds up very well, very durable, and if done well, has no orange
peel. It is a bit thick, though, and the lines are a bit “flowed over”.
Lacquer sets up “thinner” and is a more pure look. It also takes
maintenance, but for the purist, there is nothing better. Enamel doesn’t
compare.
do you want me to add you to the
(small) XK group?
Is there one? I wanted a list for my Etype, and find this one to be a bit
overwhelming in volume. Thanks,
Geoff
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 14:48:18 -0400
Subject: Re: AC on wet winter days.
Jim Isbell:
Air conditioning on a wet winters day is a mandatory, it suprises me how
many people will try and drive while rubbing a hole in the fogged up
windscreen in traffic! Obviously on a death wish.At least here in Texas, this is not true. Here warm air will do a fine job
of demisting. There is no need for AC.
I gotta disagree with Jim here. Here in FL, there are many days when it is
cool enough to get condensation on the windshield, but still warm and muggy
enough that warmed-over outside air will NOT get rid of it in any kind of
timely manner. You can turn on the heat to the defroster, drive another ten
miles, and by the time it STARTS to clear up it’s about 100 degrees inside
the car. Or, you can turn on the A/C with a little heat, and the windshield
will clear in ten seconds.
After all, what did cars do before 1958?
They crashed their cars a lot while rubbing the windshield with a rag.
Warm air will hold more
moisture and therefore will clear the fog from the windshield.
Not if it’s warm air with high humidity. You’ve gotta lower the humidity
FIRST (using the A/C) and then warm it, so you have warm DRY air.
If there is
a death wish it is those who want to freeze to death with the AC running.
If it’s below 50 degrees F or so outside, there is no need for A/C for
demisting – and in fact it won’t help. The problem is when it’s warmer
than that.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: “Himes,John W.” jwh@dw.att.com
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 96 13:17:00 PDT
Subject: Hail Damage
I sent this a few days ago and have not seen it in the digest so I am
sending again, if you have seen this, please ignore.
I have heard that you can repair mild hail damage by using dry ice to
“pop” the ding out. Does anyone on this list know if this is true and just
how do you do it?
( I.e. Leave car in hot sun, cover ding with paper bag and place the dry ice
on ding until it flattens out )
Unless you feel the list would benefit, please post to the list else post to
me direct.
John Himes
88 XJ-S 94K miles
jwh@dw.att.com
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 16:01:42 -0400
Subject: Re:E-Type/Racing wheels
On Jun 5, 9:44am, Ed Freige wrote:
Subject: Re: Racing wheels for your E Type
Mark McChesney comment - " Interesting idea on welding steel wheels onto
stock
splined centers":
This actually came from Jim Isbell…
... I purchased a second set of wires which Iintended to canabalize for the hubs. My plan was to take the hubs and have
them welded into the center of a steel wheel. This way I could make a set
of steel wheels that would interchange with the wires on the same hubs.
But maybe he didn’t want it boadcast to the whole list… Sorry Jim.
Still an interesting idea - wires for show, steel wheels for racing w/out
changing hubs.
Mark McChesney
From: “Lauren E. Pratt” pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 96 09:39:42 PDT
Subject: Over size pistons for a 4.2
Advice sincerely needed.
Has anyone had any experience with 0.040 over size pistons for
the Jag 4.2 L engine? I have been told by several people
the .040 over could make the engine overheat. If so, why???
Other people have said it should work with no problem.
Does the sleeve get too thin to transfer heat? It should still
be in contact with the block, or does the continual change
from vacuum on the intake stroke to pressure on the compression
and power stroke work the sleeve loose enough to cause poor heat
transfer?
I would greatly appreciate hearing from anyone with any experience
on this subject.
Thanks in advance
Cheers Lauren
Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 6/5/96
Time: 9:39:42 AM
This message was sent by Chameleon
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 16:50:17 -0400
Subject: 16" Tires for XJ-S
Apparently, the last few years of XJ-S production had the cars fitted with
16" wheels. Also, the XJ12 now comes with 16" wheels. Can someone please
tell me what size TIRES come on these cars from the factory?
I’ll be visiting the tire size site on the WWW to find out which size 16"
tires provide the same diameter as the earlier 235/60R-15 and 215/70R-15
tires. But I’d like to know what actually came on the cars.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 17:04:27 -0500
Subject: Re: AC on wet winter days.
Jim
Jim, all of my GM owner manuals state the AC cycles on when you select
defrost to help in clearing the windscreen. You still put the temp control
over to hot. Comparing the “efficiency” between a car which just blows warm
air, and the ones with the AC running, the windscreen “clears” faster on the
AC models. Based on the “foggy” weather here in the San Francisco Bay area.
Lee
No doubt, but you dont live where it takes all the heat you can muster to
keep warm and any loss of efficency such as running the AC at the same time
is insane. The same goes for AC in the summer and losing efficency by
running the heater at the same time. SF is a similar climate to England and
it works fine in both those places, but here the winter brings temperatures
near 0F and the summer brings days of 110F. At these extreams it is folly
to do anything that impairs the absolute best performance you can get in
either heating or cooling.
The CEO of Jaguar back in the 60s said there was no need for AC in
automobiles until he came to Texas and he changed his mind or so the story goes.
GM has enough reserve capacity (I own a Seville) that they can afford to
use some up in inefficency, Jaguar is marginal to begin with and they dont
have any extra to play with.
Jim
===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"
John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: ajbeale@squirrel.com.au (A.J. Beale)
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 08:58:21 -0700
Subject: Re: Hail Damage
A few days ago I replied direct to John Himes home address, but something
went wrong and the message didn’t get delivered. Others may be able to add
to this reply, so now it is to whoever it may concern My message was:-
John. In Australia we have a process called “Paintless Dent Removal” which
specifically removes small dents, such as those caused by hail, without the
need to repaint the panels involved. These small firms are usually one or
two man shows and they use a procedure which involves working the metal back
into its original shape by using special tools from the inside of the panel.
It appears that there is no panel they can’t get behind. They work in the
shade, usually inside their client’s garage, with a light set to shine along
the panel being repaired. Small dents in pressed panels can be removed
without trace, but I wouldn’t suggest that you try it. The procedure is OK
for dents of from about 3/8" to 1.5" dia and I can tell you that it works.
I had several small dents removed from my XJ40 and there is not the
slightest indication, in any light, that the dents ever existed. Now, the
point is that I think the procedure originated in the US and if so it
shouldn’t be too difficult for you to find out. The cost is about half that
of normal panel beating and spray painting. At A$75 per panel with 3-4
dents per panel, it isn’t cheap, but it is good. Regards, Alan.
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 19:39:44 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: A/C Expansion Valve
Kirby, what was the part number of the expansion valve you used and now
that you’ve changed it was it the best choice? If not, why not and what
would you rather look for?
John
On Wed, 29 May 1996, Kirby Palm wrote:
A coupla weeks back there was a discussion on expansion valves. Main issues
seemed to revolve around effects of a plugged inlet screen, and whether or
not the expansion valve HAS an inlet screen. I stayed out of that
discussion, since I knew little about expansion valves.Today I am several hundred dollars poorer, and know a lot more about
expansion valves. Just thought I’d share some recent experience.Although it’s a long story of how this was diagnosed, what actually happened
to my XJ-S’s A/C system was this: The dryer, which is the cylindrical thing
mounted horizontally at the top front of the radiator (and has a sight glass
in it) failed. Something internally broke, which caused an assortment of
little beads to get blown into the downstream freon line.This line leads directly to the inlet of the expansion valve. My expansion
valve had no inlet screen, so the beads went directly inside and plugged it up.That, in turn, brought flow in the freon circuit to a standstill. The
mighty GM A-6 compressor cranked away, pulling a vacuum on its inlet side
and God knows how much pressure on the outlet side – it’s a positive
displacement compressor running into a deadheaded line. It blew out the
rubber O-rings at the back of the compressor and pissed all the freon away.When the true origin of the failed O-rings was finally determined, the fix
was to replace the dryer and expansion valve, and to blow out the line
between them with compressed air before reassembly to get any remaining
little beads out. And, of course, new O-rings at the compressor. While I
had the thing discharged anyway, I replaced a couple other O-rings just for
grins, including at the pipe connections to the fuel cooler. Recharge,
everything seems OK.The NEW expansion valve has an inlet screen. But just what benefit one may
expect is questionable. If the dryer is OK, it should stop anything from
coming from upstream, so the only thing the filter would do is stop any junk
that originates in the one pipe between the two. If the dryer is blown as
mine was, the screen won’t do any good, the entire dryer’s worth of beads is
gonna plug it up. Whether it would save the cost of replacing the expansion
valve itself is possible, but once you’ve torn that much apart the $55 valve
is a minor issue. Compared to paying for further freon recharges, it might
be generally a good idea to just replace it rather than try to clean the
inlet screen.So, only one benefit I can see: If I didn’t succeed in getting all the beads
outta that line, the inlet screen on the new valve could stop one or two
without a significant obstruction resulting.One further comment: The expansion valve on this system is fairly standard;
there are several interchangible part numbers, including some from Jap cars.
But further, there are several other part numbers that represent similar
expansion valves except that the capillary tube and/or sensor tube are
different lengths. The expansion valve called out for the XJ-S has very
short tubes, since the places they go are only a couple inches away. But it
still may be beneficial to get an expansion valve with longer tubes just to
make it easier to install.Also, some of the expansion valves have the capillary tube attached on
different sides or at different angles. Selecting the optimum arrangement
here can also ease installation considerably.The sensor tube has a little coil on the end that must be installed against
the pipe coming out of the evaporator, and must have some insulation put
over it, so that it senses the temperature of that pipe. On other cars I’ve
seen, this coil is merely strapped to the pipe with a tar-like stuff.
However, on the XJ-S there is actually a little boss built onto the
evaporator outlet fitting just for this coil. Once you get the tar stuff
off, you gotta loosen two Phillips screws to get the old coil to slide out.-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | -- Palm's Postulate
From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 1996 18:50:41 -0700
Subject: Re: Accelerator Pedal
The assembly above the accelerator pedal is for the cruise control. Get
someone to depress the bellows and watch the lever move. It only works
one way obviously.
I Macfarlane wrote:
Can anyone tell me the purpose of the lever/roller assembly immediately
above the accelerator pedal on a 1985 XJ-S.I was doing some work on my XJ-S near the pedal and noticed the lever, but
it doesn’t seem to do anything. It doesn’t move with the pedal (although it
looks as if the roller possibly could ride on the pedal extension).Also, it is not shown in the repair manual (as are other things).
From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 1996 22:54:32 +0100
Subject: E-Type wires
Hi all,
My '62 E-Type restoration is just about ready for new
wheels and the costs/type are confusing me.
The best price for chrome wires I have is
over $300. Canadian ($239.US)!
Now I’ve been advised that SS spokes are much
better than chrome (and a mere $200. more per wheel)
Is SS that much better?
Anybody got any $500. looking, $!00. wires
Anybody give fifth mortgages:)
Charles Daly
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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 6 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 136
re: MK2 Suspension Mods
Wanted : Lucas 16CU ECU
Re: Problematic Years for XJ6?
Hokey Jaguar Decals on Valve Covers
Oil Drain Plug Leak
Re: Problematic Years for XJ6?
Teflon Tape for Oil Drain Plug Leak
Spicy E-type stories wanted.
Re: Problematic Years for XJ6?
Re: XJS Convertible
Why two fuel tanks?
Re: oil presure -V12
catalytic converters - V12
Re: Oil Drain Plug Leak
Re: 16" Tires for XJ-S
Re: Teflon Tape for Oil Drain Plug Leak
Re: SplitFire Spark Plugs - Dual Plugs
(general) wheels for courses, tyres too
Re: (general) wheels for courses, tyres too
Parts Catalogue
Webers and Gas-flowed heads for non-HE V12s
From: “Ryan Border” border@best.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 1996 22:37:11 +0000
Subject: re: MK2 Suspension Mods
A while back, John Mcdonagh wrote:
I have also turned the front top inner wishbone pivots upside down.
This was apparently a “factory” mod for racing Mark 2’s as it gives
more negative camber as the front suspension compresses on cornering.
I have the alignment done so when going straight ahead it is within
normal specs so there is no adverse tyre wear.
According to UPS, my new front springs arrive tomorrow. I’ll be
installing them tomorrow (Thu) night, and have an appointment to
have the car aligned Friday morning. So, if I was going to
contemplate this mod, now is definitely the time to do it.
But, this seems counter-intuitive to me. Just eye-balling the
geometry, it does look like this is correct… at “zero” (car sitting
still on wheels) the upper wishbone is pointed slightly downward.
So, as the wheel is loaded, the lower A-arm will move up towards
“level”, pushing the upper ball joint out, increasing negative
camber. But… wouldn’t you want positive (bottom out) camber
on cornering? Do I have this all backawards?
Maybe somebody can give me some timely advice: I’ve got the 420
uprights which I think are slightly taller as measured between the
lower ball joint and the stub-axle. At least that’s the only way I
can reason that I now need longer springs. Don’t know about the
total upright length and therefore what the effect has been on the
position of the upper A-arm. If anything, it’s probably going to
be positioned ‘lower’ than stock. My guess is that the total length
of the upright is about the same.
Should I flip my upper mounts? Or not? Without convincing,
I’m inclined to leave them stock (just to be sure, what is the stock
orientation anyway?- shaft low or high?).
Ryan.
PS: Any other Bay Area Jag-lovers planning on going to this Sundays
brit car show and swap meet in Hayward?
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 08:17:45 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Wanted : Lucas 16CU ECU
Hello,
I’m looking for a Lucas 16CU (that is for V12’s starting in '87 I think)
any condition. (e.g. can be broken). I’m planning on some modifications,
but I would like to keep my original, just in case.
-
- Matthias
From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 02:23:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Problematic Years for XJ6?
Lawrence Buja wrote way back on Fri Sep 30, 1994 about buying a used XJ:
LB> …whatever you do, have a jag mechanic check it out for you
LB> before buying it. If he finds any problems, you can either pass on
LB> the car or use his diagnosis as a powerful bargaining tool. If it
LB> checks out OK, then you’ve just bought some peace of mind.
If it checks out OK & then turns out to be a lemon, then you know a Jag
mechanic you DON’T want to go to! Really, I’d rather sleep on it overnight
before buying a car. Only bad cars I’ve gotten were all checked over by
mechanics first. Even a good mechanic is really sort of looking for needles
in a haystack unless there are some sort of evident symptoms. There’s no
reason why you can’t check yourself for leaks, rust, oil smoke, oil in the
coolant, compression, dents, & the like. Best to make up a checklist ahead
of time & bring along what you need to make the checks.
-Steve A.
From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 02:23:29 -0400
Subject: Hokey Jaguar Decals on Valve Covers
Back on Wed Aug 31, 1994 Kirby Palm wrote about V-12 valve covers on the
XJ-S:
KP> The Jaguar decal on the valve cover impresses me as hokey. I would
KP> like to replace it with a riveted-on brass emblem, but I’ve never
KP> found one. Does anyone know where I can find such an item –
KP> perhaps a key fob or the like?
If you want to find something a little better looking that the Jaguar decal
on the valve cover, why not either get it photo etched or alodyned? That’d
be more apropos than sticking on something that’d probably wind up looking
“tacked on” & you could pick any pattern that appeals to you. Same thing
would apply to those stupid decals that Jaguar seems to think are acceptable
on the AJ6 engine. Come to think of it, the decal on my XJ40 has seen better
days & I WAS thinking about getting a new one until I saw your old message.
If anyone wants more details, I’ll talk to some experts & suggest how you can
apply their suggestions.
-Steve
A.
From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 02:23:32 -0400
Subject: Oil Drain Plug Leak
Paul Amaranth writes on Wed Aug 31, 1994:
Now, how hard is it to keep the oil drain plug from leaking? What is my
problem?
<<>>
PA> The copper work hardens after a while. I’ve had some success
PA> anealing it by heating it red hot with a propane torch, then
PA> letting it cool. Then file and sand it flat.
Taking a look in my handy dandy Mark’s Handbook, Copper anneals at above
400F. While I don’t have the time to anneal at hand, seems to me that you
can resoften those copper washers by tossing in them in the oven & letting
them cook next to your wife’s (or husband’s) casserole. Retrieve when the
oven’s cool. MUCH easier than trying to hold a washer that you’re heating
red hot! I can find out the cooking time for those that need a precise
recipe, but since your oven may vary, I’d just cook until done! If you’re
impatient, just turn it to “broil” for a while. Anyone know if steaks cook
to “well done” before copper washers cook to “soft?”
-Steve
A.
From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 10:05:46 +0200
Subject: Re: Problematic Years for XJ6?
Even a good mechanic is really sort of looking for needles in a haystack
unless there are some sort of evident symptoms. There’s no reason why
you can’t check yourself for leaks, rust, oil smoke, oil in the coolant,
compression, dents, & the like. Best to make up a checklist ahead
of time & bring along what you need to make the checks.
-Steve A.
I recommend the checklist written by Lawrence Buja and Roger Garnett,
“The SOL used car buyer’s checklist”. Very comprehensive, free and
available in the “library”-section of the Jag-lovers web-site.
Also, there is a lot of good info the the Monster guide to Jaguars,
by the selfsame Lawrence Buja, also available at the web-site. Curently
the XJ and Mk2 sections are in place. The XK-section is under work
by John Elmgreen and to my knowledge noone has undertaken to do the
section on E-types, yet.
Nick
Nick Johannessen @ Work email: nick@sn.no http://www.sn.no/home/nick/
Phone: +47-2207 3981 Cell : +47-905 95132 Fax: +47-2207 3444
From: “Roger langley” lang0080@gold.tc.umn.edu
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 07:49:11
Subject: Teflon Tape for Oil Drain Plug Leak
Has any one tried using teflon tape around the threads? It worked beautifully
to seal a fuel pump to fuel line problem on my Triumph.
Roger Langley
lang0080@gold.tc.umn.edu
612-771-0806
University of Minnesota
St. Paul, Minnesota, USA
From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 07:42:07 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Spicy E-type stories wanted.
Nick writes…
{to my knowledge noone has undertaken to do the
{section on E-types, yet.
Funny you should mention it. Just last evening, I broke out the
bottle of Black Widow Imperial Stout which I had been saving and
started working on the E-type section of the Net-guide to
Jaguars. I was leaving the E-type section for last, (kinda like
that final plump shrimp in a great seafood meal that you push to
the side and slowly savor only after you have dispached the rest
of the dish). It’s coming along quite nicely.
This gives me the opportunity to ask the E-typers on the list for
their personal E-type stories in order to give the E-type section
a more human touch.
Something with some punch to balance the required “This is a
Series I and this is a Series II and this is a blah, blah,
blah…” technical description section.
So, if you have a good E-type story of adventure, be it comedy or
tragedy, or feel like describing how you found, loved or hated
your XKE, or simply want to share your personal thoughts on your
E-type, this is the time to do it and get it “published”.
Post it to the list for all to see and I’ll include what I can
into the guide.
/\ Lawrence Buja http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern/
_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
________________Boulder,Colorado___80307-3000
From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 08:47:23 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Re: Problematic Years for XJ6?
{Lawrence Buja wrote way back on Fri Sep 30, 1994 about buying a used XJ:
{LB> …whatever you do, have a jag mechanic check it out for you
{LB> before buying it. If he finds any problems, you can either pass on
{LB> the car or use his diagnosis as a powerful bargaining tool. If it
{LB> checks out OK, then you’ve just bought some peace of mind.
{
{If it checks out OK & then turns out to be a lemon, then you know a Jag
{mechanic you DON’T want to go to! Really, I’d rather sleep on it overnight
{before buying a car. Only bad cars I’ve gotten were all checked over by
{mechanics first. Even a good mechanic is really sort of looking for needles
{in a haystack unless there are some sort of evident symptoms. There’s no
{reason why you can’t check yourself for leaks, rust, oil smoke, oil in the
{coolant, compression, dents, & the like. Best to make up a checklist ahead
{of time & bring along what you need to make the checks.
{ -Steve A.
Steve-
I’m not sure what you are getting at here. Are you seriously saying
that a someone who has little or no mechanical knowledge and who is
spending upwards of $10-20K on a used Jaguar shouldn’t spend $100 to
have it checked over by a mechanic?
It sounds like you’re proposing that everyone should do their own
mechanical checkout. I can do it, you can do it, most everyone on
this list can do it, that’s why I wrote the “The british-cars
Used-Car Buyers Picky Mechanical Inspection Checklist”, but then
again, we’re not normal. The advice given above was aimed at the
average Jaguar buyer who is in absolutely NO position to do even the
most basic of diagnostics, a compression check.
Out of spec valvetrain, aged rings/bearings, worn suspension, tired
transmissions, dead AC, rusted trailing arm anchors, there are some
expensive flaws in these beautiful cars that appear time and time
again. That’s why I wrote the damn Used XJ6 Guide. But, even with
the FAQ in front of them, the average Jaguar buyer simply doesn’t
have the mechanical experience to adequately checkout a used Jag.
Is that little “click-click” benign or a hideous time-bomb? The
competent Jag mechanic will find these common problems for them in
a second and explain the magnitude and potential cost of the
problem.
I need to ask, since you appear to disagree with the advice I gave,
what single piece of advice would YOU offer to the average person
who wants to buy a good Jaguar next week, but has very little
mechanical knowledge?
/\ Lawrence Buja http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern/
_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
________________Boulder,Colorado___80307-3000
From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 10:51:26 -0400
Subject: Re: XJS Convertible
In a message dated 96-06-04 17:51:14 EDT, M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
writes:
“When were the first “factory” convertible XJS V-12s built?”
Previously Jaguar officially sold convertibles in the US market that
were actually conversions done by Hess & Eisenhardt…
The factory ones are easily recognized by the hideous lump in the side
that disguises the fact that the rear windows don’t fully retract.
(Unbiased comment from an H&E owner )
I agree.
I would add that IMHO the Hess & Eisenhardt convertible XJS is the most
attractive of the XJSs, and possibly the best looking Jag of the last 20
years.
(Another '87 convertible owner)
Julian Mullaney
From: david_gruber@fmc.com (DAVID GRUBER)
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 09:43:00 -0500
Subject: Why two fuel tanks?
Just question about design philosophy, I suppose, but I’ve always wondered why
the xj6 (and others, perhaps?) was manufactured with two separate fuel tanks?
Until I became an owner, I thought there were merely two accesses to the same
tank.
When I was showing my “new” car to a friend he asked the question, to which I
could not effectively reply. This lead us to hypothesize…
The design of the tanks was driven by the body shape - there would not be room
for a decent-sized tank without compromising the silhouette of the car, so the
tanks were split - but then, why couldn’t they be connected to avoid having to
fill each individually?
A perverse commitment to symmetry dictated that there be a chrome cap on each
side of the car.
Jaguar owners, in a never-ending quest to tweak the performance of their cars,
could fill each tank with a separate brand or grade of petrol and conduct their
own experiments in fuel-efficiency and performance.
A (partially) redundant fuel system was developed so that if the car was strafed
on one side, it could continue to fly.
I couldn’t find much mention of the dual-tank system in the owner’s manuals. I
was wondering if it is better to toggle use from each tank frequently so that
the weight distribution remains relatively the same, rather than fill each and
empty them one at a time.
Regards,
Dave
87 xj6-III
From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 10:59:53 -0400
Subject: Re: oil presure -V12
Question:
I have had low oil pressure in myV12 and assumed that it was an inevitable
consequence of aging, and sloppy bearings etc.
Now I’m wondering if the oil pressure would remain higher (after warm up) if
the cooling system were cleaned and the engine ran cooler. Particularly, if
the distrib. advance is stuck do you think that the marginal overheating
could cause low oil viscosity and low oil pressure readings?
Second question:
I’ve been told by a racing buddy that some oil pumps have a pressure limiting
valve which can be adjusted (some sort of screw adjuster) to vary the oil
pressure. Does anyone know if the V12 oil pump has such an adjustment,
and/or/if it is wise to screw around with it (pun intended) ?
Julian Mullaney
1987 XJS Conv.
From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 11:06:18 -0400
Subject: catalytic converters - V12
I had an MGB once which had a catalytic converter. The ceramic
disintegrated, so I poked at it until it was all gone, leaving a hollow bulge
shaped cavity. When I drove it afterwards the bulge shaped cat. container
was cherry red hot. I assumed it was due to some weird flow effect.
Does anyone know what happens with the JagV12 if you simply remove the old
ceramic honeycombs and replace the system?
Julian Mullaney
1987 XJS Conv.
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 11:22:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil Drain Plug Leak
SteveAv:
Paul Amaranth writes on Wed Aug 31, 1994:
Now, how hard is it to keep the oil drain plug from leaking? What is my
problem?<<>>
PA> The copper work hardens after a while. I’ve had some success
PA> anealing it by heating it red hot with a propane torch, then
PA> letting it cool. Then file and sand it flat.Taking a look in my handy dandy Mark’s Handbook, Copper anneals at above
400F. While I don’t have the time to anneal at hand, seems to me that you
can resoften those copper washers by tossing in them in the oven & letting
them cook next to your wife’s (or husband’s) casserole.
Man, all of this is too hard. Copper washers generally don’t seal worth a
damn the second time, and in fact can be risky the FIRST time. Forget about
all that stuff and put in a fibre washer – and reuse it from now until
eternity without ever having to worry about a leak.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 11:59:17 -0400
Subject: Re: 16" Tires for XJ-S
Mike Cogswell:
...the tire size site on the WWW...Can you please provide the URL for this site?
http://www.dsm.org/Fun/TireSize.html
You can save the effort, though; it appears that the size you want for an XJ
is the 255/50R-16. This size is widely available in a Z rating for
considerably less than the cost of a V-rated 235/60R-15!
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: kboetzer@auspex.com (Ken Boetzer)
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 09:19:13 -0700
Subject: Re: Teflon Tape for Oil Drain Plug Leak
Has any one tried using teflon tape around the threads? It worked beautifully
to seal a fuel pump to fuel line problem on my Triumph.
Roger Langley
lang0080@gold.tc.umn.edu
612-771-0806
University of Minnesota
St. Paul, Minnesota, USA
Roger,
I find teflon tape works great for lots of this kind of stuff. It is MOST effective
on tapered pipe threads. It would be marginal on straight threads that have the
traditional copper washer/gasket. There are really nifty washer/seals that have
an O-ring bonded to the ID of the washer. (Often an aluminum washer.) Many bearing
supply houses or heavy truck repair/parts places have such parts. I have found the
truck supply places have lots of other trick stuff. Check one out sometime when
you need a bullet proof fix to some vexing problem. (Add various wife jokes here.)
Cheers,
Ken Boetzer
From: “White, Dick” white@msgate.columbiasc.ncr.com
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 96 13:21:00 edt
Subject: Re: SplitFire Spark Plugs - Dual Plugs
Larry Lee wrote:
nor do I plan to invent a dual-plug head for an engine that
doesn’t run at 10,000 RPM.Larry Lee
You don’t have to. There is a picture of one in Jeremy Boyce’s book ‘The
Jaguar XK Series.’ It looks like a regular XK head but has 12 spark plug
holes. There is no mention of it in the text though. It doesn’t say who
built it or where it was used - just this very curious picture.
Dick White
Columbia, SC
'64 3.8 S-Type
'58 XK 150 FHC
From: Ed Mellinger meed@mbari.org
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 10:32:01 -0700
Subject: (general) wheels for courses, tyres too
Still an interesting idea - wires for show, steel wheels for racing > w/out
changing hubs.Mark McChesney
Running through this thread has been an understanding that wire wheels
aren’t suitable for racing. Could someone educate a newbie on the
relative merits (or lack thereof) of wires vs pressed steel, regarding
weight, stiffness, strength (damage tolerance), etc?
I gather wires are pretty awful at everything except looking good, and
maybe brake cooling. Are they bad enough that spirited street driving
would be “not advised”? I have the feeling that I’m going to miss the
forged aluminum wheels (and lugnuts ) of my previous car…
Are there any choices in 185-16 radial tires other than the Michelin X
sold by Coker Tire? Their ‘S’ speed rating isn’t too comforting.
- -Ed Mellinger
XK150 tyro
meed@mbari.org
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 15:10:18 -0400
Subject: Re: (general) wheels for courses, tyres too
On Jun 6, 10:32am, Ed Mellinger wrote:
Subject: (general) wheels for courses, tyres too
Running through this thread has been an understanding that wire wheels
aren’t suitable for racing. Could someone educate a newbie on the
relative merits (or lack thereof) of wires vs pressed steel, regarding
weight, stiffness, strength (damage tolerance), etc?-Ed Mellinger
Uh, I should point out that there have been a lot of problems w/steel
wheels(too) work hardening at the mounting flange and cracking/breaking and
wrecking peoples race weekends. The guys on the vintage racers web warn about
this all the time. Could this be a problem on the street too? If you drive hard
enough, yes (they say).
Lou at GTJ said that switching to alloys (from wires and splined hubs) saves
over 100lbs. in unsprung weight. Hence my quest for an appropriate looking
alloy wheel.
Mark McChesney
From: Mark Budd MBudd@inforoute.net
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 21:27:59 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Parts Catalogue
Hi!
Just wanted to give an update - I had posted a request for parts to
restore my E-Type steering rack, because all the major suppliers I know
didn’t have the parts I needed. (Small stuff, nuts, bolts, washers, etc.)
Well I just paid 6 pounds U.K. for the catalogue from SC Parts Group ltd.,
and I must say, the catalogue is the best I have seen to date, and I have
about 15!
Very well laid out, and what is also a plus is, the E-Type parts
offered, aren’t always laid out on that same exploded view as always seen.
Fresh angles, different explosions or bolts, nuts, etc., required, “and”
they have so much more parts to offer than anyone I’ve seen. They have all
but one part I was looking for, so this has made my venture somewhat shorter.
They have included some pictures of finished E-Types as well, but
only in the front section. It’s really worth the price. I’ve bought from
them before and on the phone they are straight to business. Parts arrive
well identified in plastic bags with ID stickers. If interested their number
is 01 44 1293 5478 41.
Mark Budd
Montreal
1970 E-Type ("E" is for envy,) Roadster! :)
PS. Thx to Hal Rogers for trying to help just the same!
From: p.hyslop@utoronto.ca (p.hyslop)
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 16:36:58 -0400
Subject: Webers and Gas-flowed heads for non-HE V12s
The situation:
My '74 XKE-V12 roadster has recently begun to seep minor quantities
of oil from beneath the tappet blocks which (mainly) causes embarrassing
puffs of smoke through the bonnet grill at traffic lights (who likes to be
told by a pig-ignorant red-neck “Hey Mac! Nice wheels but you’re on fire!”
every 300 yards). Clearly the heads will need to come off and be
disassembled, and while off it would be sensible to do any modifications
and repairs to the valve train. So, assuming that the bottom end and the
transmission are OK (which I think is so), I am wondering what else can be
done to improve performance while I have the heads off?
The question:
Does anyone have experience with replacing those aweful Strombergs
with six 40mm IDF Weber’s, doing quite modest changes in the cam profiles,
and intake port polishing (I believe several companies provide streetable
cam and head kits)?
If so, did it lead to the expected increase in performance or just
to added unreliability, rough idling and extreme frustration of trying to
tune 6 instead of 4 carbs?
What about exhaust system upgrades - the stock exhaust is
guaranteed to cause asphyxiation?
Any thoughts/testimonials/referrals would be appreciated!
Peter
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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 7 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 137
Re: Spicy E-type stories wanted:Larry Buja
re: teflon tape
Re: Larry B/Steve A.'s duel!
Re: Why two fuel tanks?
Re: oil presure -V12
Re: Webers and Gas-flowed heads for non-HE V12s
New member-New owner
re: MK2 Suspension Mods
Re: Webers and Gas-flowed heads for non-HE V12s
Re: Teflon Tape for Oil Drain Plug Leak
Pre-Jaguar
The North Cape Challenge 1996 is online!
Re: E-Type wires
Parts Catalogue
Re: Teflon Tape for Oil Drain Plug Leak
Re: Webers and Gas-flowed heads for non-HE V12s
Re[2]: (general) wheels for courses, tyres too
Cal State Hayward Meet on Sunday
Re[2]: Why two fuel tanks?
Teflon tape is for plumbing
Two fuel tanks on XJ6
drain plug leaks
From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 17:50:45 +0100
Subject: Re: Spicy E-type stories wanted:Larry Buja
Larry,
Black Widow, eh? Definately the kind of man we
need for E-Types!
Congratulations! Wonderful! A Rave! A Smash!
(and that’s just the New York press:)
You want spice?
Did I ever tell you about the time I was running
contraband Nutmeg up from Mexico in the sugar scoops
of my E…?
Looking as forward to it as the bonnet of an E!
Any help you need? (as long as it doesn’t have to do with cars!)
Good luck, Godspeed, etc, blah, blah.
Charles Daly
'62 E-Type
From: Ryan Border rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 14:53:12 -0700
Subject: re: teflon tape
Another suggestion for fixing a leaky drain plug is to get one of those
valves that replaces the plug. The advantage is that you can put it in
once, and put it in really good (RTV, teflon tape, helicoil, whatever
else you can think up) and once it’s in, you never have to remove it
risking further damage to the sump. Just open the valve to drain
the oil.
Ryan.
From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 18:27:48 +0100
Subject: Re: Larry B/Steve A.'s duel!
In 1962 I test drove a new E-Type from a dealer.
I couldn’t afford it but it remained my dream car.
Three months ago I found my '62 E and bought it.
I have so little mechanical ability that if I questioned
tons of smoke coming from a car and the PO told me the
car came with a fireplace, I would prob. believe it!
I do know that checking a car is much like a physician
checking a patient - if you know what’s wrong you can
probe more deeply but we all know the hidden possibilities.
I made a deal with the PO that we would tow the car to
a Brit. mechanic and I spent a thousand dollars (approx)
to get the car running and access it thoroughly. (no obligation
on my part to buy, but the option, of course, after the checkup)
It was a major expenditure, for sure, and maybe an odd thing to
commit to, but I would much rather lose a G. than a whole lot more
down the road.
It turned out that it was (is) an incredible find and is now just
about finished the restoration.
I’m in awe of folks like you who can tear down a transmission
or (Good Lord!) tune SU carbs! But mechanically-challenged
peasants like me can’t possibly access a 34 year old car and reach
an intelligent decision.
BTW, I had decided that if the car didn’t run I would still buy it and
keep it in my living room - just to look at!
Regards,
Charles Daly
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 7 Jun 96 12:38:08
Subject: Re: Why two fuel tanks?
The twin fuel tank system orginated back in the days when it was thought highly
desirable to have a reserve fuel tank (my 1951 Rover 75 had a “reserve” switch
that merely turned on a second fuel pump with the suction located lower in the
tank and early Volkswagens had a hand-operated change-over valve). I would
suspect that it was this plus, as you say, the difficulty of installing a
single large tank in the XJ, that led to the Jaguar design.
Yes, the two fillers are a nuisance - but it’s nice to have the fillers on top,
so you don’t have to worry about which side of the bowser you drive up on…
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 7 Jun 96 12:50:53
Subject: Re: oil presure -V12
How low is your oil pressure, Julian? The pressure relief valve appears to
open around 50 psi, and I think you might consider the situation unusual if you
don’t get 50 psi at 3,000 rpm (hot). My two V12s both show 50 psi hot as they
approach 2,000 rpm, and they’re in good condition but not “as new”.
If you don’t get 50 psi at any time, even cold, you should suspect a jammed
relief valve. It’s the lump of plumbing on the side of the crankcase at the
left rear with a very thin little pipe coming out of it and can easily be taken
out and fixed without major surgery. No, it’s not adjustable.
Yes, overheating does affect the oil pressure. If you regularly run over 100
deg C, your cooling system (or ignition etc.) needs work, anyway. Make sure you
use the right oil, too - it should be a reputable 20-50 multigrade, such as
Castrol GTX2.
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 7 Jun 96 13:06:51
Subject: Re: Webers and Gas-flowed heads for non-HE V12s
I know it’s different strokes, Peter, but why don’t you get fuel injection? The
FI manifolds bolt on and there are many aftermarket injection control units
around (all better than the original K-Jetronic, believe me). You’ll need a
pressurising pump as well, but it doesn’t have to be Jaguar. Some control units
provide for two pumps, one small for running around town and one large for
heavy stuff, which is an improvement as the genuine Jaguar setup circulates the
fuel through the bonnet plumbing at a huge rate, which heats it to the point
where the tanks become uncomfortably hot to touch.
A good fuel injection system will give you more power, lower fuel consumption
and better driveability, and will probably save you two thirds of the cost of
a six Weber setup - at least if you get second-hand manifolds and throttle
bodies.
Have fun!
- -Jan
From: root@missingmile.com
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 01:56:12
Subject: New member-New owner
I’ve recently joined the list and purchased my first Jaguar, a 1966 Mk X. The
car is in pretty good shape but I do need just about all the rubber pieces and
some interior trim items. Does anyone know of a good source for these types of
parts? I have a couple of catalogs but they list most all models except the Mk
X or 420G(which I assume would substitute). I did notice that Welsh sells some
of the individual rubber items by the foot. Would It be possible to substitute
rubber from any other model?
Thanks,
Sam McCommons
From: John McDonagh MCDONAGJ@tui.lincoln.ac.nz
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 1996 09:24:36 +1200
Subject: re: MK2 Suspension Mods
Hi Ryan,
Negative camber in NZ means the bottom of the wheels OUT in relation
to the top. Lots of race cars have quite noticable differences but if
you get too carried away on a road car you get a lot of wear on the
inside of the tyres.
The standard arrangement of the top pivot is to have it “high”. I
understand the reason for flipping it over is that on compression of
the springs the top wishbone goes past being level, ie slopes "down"in
the direction of the inner pivot in relation to the outer pivot and
therefore the lower this inside pivot is the more it “pulls in” the
top of the wheel giving more negative camber than would otherwise be
the case.
That’s what I’ve been told anyway and I’ve done it on my Mark 2 but
unfortunately I changed the front anti roll bar at the same time for
a 1 inch one so I don’t know what effect the “flip” would have by
itself. Done 20,000 miles since with no ill effects.
John
John McDonagh
Department of Accounting Finance and Property Studies
Lincoln University
Christchurch
New Zealand
From: John McDonagh MCDONAGJ@tui.lincoln.ac.nz
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 1996 11:12:09 +1200
Subject: Re: Webers and Gas-flowed heads for non-HE V12s
A famous (in NZ anyway) woman Jag mechanic and race driver called
Sybil Lupp did this to her new V12 E in the early 1970,s as it wasn’t
fast enough by her account. She had previously held the NZ land speed
record in her modified 3.8 OTS at over 170 mph I believe, and in the
1950’s raced an XK 120. She and her husband, Lionel Archer held the
Wellington Jaguar Dealership (Archer and Lupp) and I think she was
the first fully qualified woman mechanic in NZ in the 1930’s.
The E-type is still around but unfortunately Sybil died last year.
Not long before I heard she lost her licence for doing 135 in her XJS
at the age of 80 something. One fast lady!
Of more use to you - there is an early XJ12 race car for sale here
at the moment and I believe this has six Webers. The guy who built it
up is Peter Blank who runs a Jaguar spares business near Hamilton NZ.
I don’t have his phone/fax number to hand but I should be able to
find it and he may give you some advice.
John McDonagh
Department of Accounting Finance and Property Studies
Lincoln University
Christchurch
New Zealand
From: “Richard King” kingr@sabc.co.za
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 09:58:13 +0200
Subject: Re: Teflon Tape for Oil Drain Plug Leak
quote +++
From: “Roger langley” lang0080@gold.tc.umn.edu
Date: Thu, 6 Jun 1996 07:49:11
Subject: Teflon Tape for Oil Drain Plug Leak
Has any one tried using teflon tape around the threads? It
worked beautifully to seal a fuel pump to fuel line problem on
my Triumph. Roger Langley lang0080@gold.tc.umn.edu
612-771-0806 University of Minnesota St. Paul, Minnesota, USA
unquote ++
Yes - and it works 100%, however, I’m a little concerned about small
pieces of the tape becoming detached and then circulating with the
engine oil.
I’ve no idea if there really is any danger of a blockage being
caused somewhere - but it is a bit worrying…
Richard King
Johannesburg
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 7 Jun 96 20:15:09
Subject: Pre-Jaguar
Does anyone know if there is anywhere a preserved SS-1? The photos look so
great - especially of the later ones - that I’d love to see one in the “flesh”.
-
- Jan
From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 1996 13:04:58 +0200
Subject: The North Cape Challenge 1996 is online!
Dear readers of automotive mailing-lists,
this is just a short note to inform you that the North Cape
Challenge, a rally for classic sportscars, is the first rally
to be covered on the web. The web-pages will be updated with
a report of the days event, photos and results. This years
event sees a fine mix of Jaguars, Mercedes, Healeys, Bugatti,
Porsche, Triumph, Gordon Keeble and Alvis.
The web-pages are at http://www.sn.no/home/moydalus/
Nick Johannessen (webmaster)
Nick Johannessen // nick@sn.no // http://www.sn.no/~nick/
Adminstrator of the JagWeb and the Jag-lovers mailing-list
From: LLoyd 3030P%NAVPGS.BitNet@pucc.PRINCETON.EDU
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 96 13:53:49 PDT
Subject: Re: E-Type wires
Charles, all,
I had my wires replaced withthe stainless steel ones. Cost was 126.dollars
(US) per wheel plus tax. The stainless steel wires are much more stable,
that is less stretch, will hold truer than the chrome plated steel stock
ones.
British Wire Wheel on the left coast (Santa Cruz, Ca.) did the job. I got
replacement Avon tires there too.
LLoyd – no, I don’t get a new toaster from them -
From: Mark Budd MBudd@inforoute.net
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 14:36:43 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Parts Catalogue
Hi!
I wrote about finding the SC Parts catalogue being fantastic.
Ken Boetzer wrote:
"Do they carry early XK (140 DHC) parts to be specific?"
First of all, "Nice car you have Ken!" I don't know the answer to
your question, so I looked through the catalogue and it says this…
"This catalogue is a reflection of the high quality of parts and
service provided by the company which also supplies and manufactures parts
for XK’s, Mk2’2’s, and all the other classic Jaguars. SC Parts Group Ltd.,
long established in the classic car world also supplies and manufactures
parts for the big Austin Healy and Range Rover…blah, blah"
If this helps you Ken, great! If you need more info, their voice
number is 01293 54 7841. I guess the country code isn’t in this number
because it’s 44 isn’t it!
Mark Budd
1970 E-Ragtop
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 09:04:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Teflon Tape for Oil Drain Plug Leak
Roger langley: Has any one tried using teflon
tape around the threads?Richard King: Yes - and it works 100%, however,
I’m a little concerned about small
pieces of the tape becoming detached and then circulating with the
engine oil.
Homemade Slick 50!
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Brian Jamieson bjamie@jannock.com
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 13:05:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Webers and Gas-flowed heads for non-HE V12s
Saw a reply on the Jag lovers page and I assumed it was in response to query
from someone in the Toronto area.
One of our club members in the Ontario Jag Owners has a V12 E with 6 webers
and has it entered in our Concours on Sunday June 23rd. The installation has
been done extremely well and he regularly gets peoples choice at the annual
Brish Car Day in September.
The concours is being held at Appleby College in Oakville and you can
contact me if you want details.
Brian Jamieson
From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 10:32:13 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: (general) wheels for courses, tyres too
- –IMA.Boundary.217751438
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Description: cc:Mail note part
You’re right about steel not being a perfect solution. I recall a photo in the
local Jag club newsletter of a member holding the wheel from his early 60’s
saloon. It had come off the car while competing (in an autocross, I think.)
All the lugnuts were still securely in place!
MikeC
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: (general) wheels for courses, tyres too
Author: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com at INTERNET
Date: 06/06/96 03:10 PM
Uh I should point out that there have been a lot of problems w/steel
wheels(too) work hardening at the mounting flange and cracking/breaking and
wrecking peoples race weekends.
Mark McChesney
- –IMA.Boundary.217751438–
From: “Ryan Border” border@best.com
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 07:35:56 +0000
Subject: Cal State Hayward Meet on Sunday
Jim Goring Wrote:
Hello-
Jim writes:
PS: Any other Bay Area Jag-lovers planning on going to this Sundays
brit car show and swap meet in Hayward?
i’d love to go… please post more more info…
Where: Cal State Hayward. Take 92 East from 880. Turn right onto
Harder Rd., and follow it past Mission Blvd onto Campus. Look
for signs.
When: Swap meet setup starts at 8am. British parts and “stuff” only.
Cars arranged on show field starting at 10am. Works in progress,
drivers, and show cars (British) welcome.
Info: 510-689-4005, nights: 415-459-2958
No pre-registration, entering a car costs $15. No extra charge for
“for sale” cars.
Supposedly sponsored by the same people who do the Palo Alto
show in September, and the Mini guys who have done the Hayward
show in the past.
This info is from my flyer, I don’ have any additional info or
any affiliation with the meet. Barring some catastrophe, I should
be there with my MK1. Hope to see some of you there.
Ryan.
From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 10:47:11 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: Why two fuel tanks?
Early volkwagons had a manual reserve for the same reason motorcyles do, no
fuel guage. Run it 'til it stumbles, flip the reserve and start looking
for a gas station.
VWs had a reserve to reduce the cost of the car. All this is interesting,
but irrelevant to the original question, since the Jag doesn’t have a reserve,
it has two tanks. Cost clearly was not the consideration with the XJ-6, where
all the duplication added a bunch to the cost. If I had to hazard a blind
guess, I’d vote for redundancy as the reason. Anyone who ever owned an early
British car with a single fuel pump could clearly appreciate the ability to
continue motoring after pump failure with a flip of a switch.
MikeC
______________________________ Reply Separator ________________________________
Subject: Re: Why two fuel tanks?
Author: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au at INTERNET
Date: 06/07/96 12:38 PM
The twin fuel tank system orginated back in the days when it was thought highly
desirable to have a reserve fuel tank (my 1951 Rover 75 had a “reserve” switch
that merely turned on a second fuel pump with the suction located lower in the
tank and early Volkswagens had a hand-operated change-over valve). I would
suspect that it was this plus, as you say, the difficulty of installing a
single large tank in the XJ, that led to the Jaguar design.
Yes, the two fillers are a nuisance - but it’s nice to have the fillers on top,
so you don’t have to worry about which side of the bowser you drive up on…
-
- Jan
From: BSherw@aol.com
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 10:03:35 -0400
Subject: Teflon tape is for plumbing
In my work as an aircraft technician, I’ve frquently read reports of engine
failures caused by a sliver of teflon tape that wound up somewhere it didn’t
belong, like in a fuel system or oil system. The stuff is absolutely taboo
in the aircraft maintenance industry now. I use it all the time at home for
water pipe
connections, but I’d rather see Chevy wheels on a Jaguar, than teflon tape on
an oil drain plug.
Brian Sherwood, '85 XJ6
From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 96 08:55:00 PDT
Subject: Two fuel tanks on XJ6
I’ve wondered too. The overall design philosophy seemed to be ‘when in
doubt, add more parts’. As the XJ6 evolved from SI through SIII, most,
if not all, new features/functions/updates consisted of more parts
bolted to whatever was underneath it. Not too many things were
redesigned to integrate the new function with old functions. A less
visible example of this approach is the number of fuse panels. If the
fuse you are looking for isn’t in the driver’s side panel, then it’s in
the passenger’s side panel, unless it’s in the one by the engine or
perhaps totally hidden from view inside one of the interior panels. The
two fuel tanks were in from the very beginning of production, of course.
Probably this began as an engineering solution to not having a place
for a single 20-gallon tank.
I’d be curious to hear from someone who was on the design team - are
these names known to us? Tez, do you have any connections with the
old-timers who designed the thing?
David
'84 XJ6 VDP
From: Gregory Andrachuk MGB@UVVM.UVic.CA
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 96 09:06:15 PDT
Subject: drain plug leaks
All of this about drips from the oil pan drain is very interesting, but before
investing in Teflon thread (which may get into the oil), the simple
purchase of a new copper washer (very cheap and original Jaguar if that
matters) or another washer, will likely do the job, providing the threads
are not stripped. After changing my oil I had a persistent dripping because
I re-used the copper washer. Next change: new washer: NO DRIP.
OPINION REQUIRED: Valvoline is now marketing an engine oil
additive (marked “formulated for Canadian conditions”). Since my car
will often sit for several days, and in winter, for up to two weeks without
use, I am interested in anything which will protect against start-up
friction. There are other products such as Slick 50, Dura-lube, and so
on, but the Valvoline interests me since, first I use Valvoline oil on the
recommendation of my mechanic, and second, the fact that it is produced by a
known and reputable oil company, seems to give it credibility. Can anyone
comment on the usefulness of these products, their safety in older engines
(mine has 67,000 miles), and specifically on the Valvoline additive?
Gregory Andrachuk 82 xj6
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #137
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jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 8 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 138
Re: Larry B/Steve A.'s duel!
XJ6 engines
XJ6 S3, XJS, XJ40 Drain Plug Seals
A/C Controls
Teflon tape and Gasoline
Re: Re[2]: Why two fuel tanks?
Re: Teflon tape is for plumbing
Re: XJ6 S3, XJS, XJ40 Drain Plug Seals
Re: Larry B/Steve A.'s duel!
Re: Larry B/Steve A.'s duel!
XJ6 Fuel Tanks
Re: E-type stories…
Re: Re[2]: Why two fuel tanks?
Re: XJ6 S3, XJS, XJ40 Drain Plug Seals
USED JAGUAR PURCHASE - PROFESSIONAL INSPECTION
Re: Teflon /nylon washer on oil plug
Re[3]: (general) wheels for courses, tyres too
Re: Webers and Gas-flowed heads for non-HE V12s
From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Thu, 06 Jun 1996 18:27:48 +0100
Subject: Re: Larry B/Steve A.'s duel!
Now there’s a man with my own type of soul…
< BTW, I had decided that if the car didn’t run I would still buy it and
< keep it in my living room - just to look at!
LLoyd
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 12:11:16 -0400
Subject: XJ6 engines
Group:
Came across someone in the NE Pennsylvania (USA) area who has some
XJ6 engines. They are early 4.2’s. I don’t have much more information than
that, but if anyone has a need, I can ask
Mike Frank
1969 XKE 2+2
From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 1996 09:32:06 -0700
Subject: XJ6 S3, XJS, XJ40 Drain Plug Seals
I must say that this list provides our shop with great
entertainment. Annealling a copper drain plug washer really takes the
cake. Get real!!! The same goes with the teflon tape mess and the
fibre washers. I’ve seen fibre washers split when attacked by a monkey
from an oil changer, not a good leak to have. Anyway, here is my
solution to the problem. Use a metal washer with a type of silicon
rubber bonded to the inside. They are reusable and last for several
years. For the XJ6 S3 and the XJS the part # is EBC4896. The XJ40 uses
EBC 9044. These are seals for the banjo bolts on the trans cooler
lines and they are worth the $4. The later XJ40s came with these
updated seals.
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 14:43:41 -0400
Subject: A/C Controls
After the discussion of the A/C compressor running in winter and the heater
core operating in summer, I got to thinking: neither of these should be a
problem.
If it is REALLY cold and the heater goes into full heat mode, the compressor
does NOT run – so physically disconnecting it will do nothing beneficial.
The exception reportedly is with some convertibles, where the compressor was
wired to run at all times to keep the fuel cool.
Same goes the other way: If it’s REALLY hot and the A/C is on full blast,
the vacuum-operated heater valve is supposed to be shut and there is no flow
through the heater core – so physically plugging the lines will do nothing
beneficial. The exception here seems to be at hot startup, where the engine
(and therefore the water pump) starts immediately and starts flowing hot
water into the core, but it takes a few seconds for the vacuum to close the
valve. Still, even though this can make the core quite hot this one time,
it should cool down within a minute or two and the overall effect should be
minor.
Perhaps a bigger concern is whether the heater valve is properly closing.
In recent experience with a non-Jaguar, I discovered that although a heater
valve was opening and shutting as it should, when shut the leakthrough was
quite significant. This valve needs to make a watertight shutoff, since
even a small amount of flow will put a good amount of heat into the core.
Of all the various valve designs I’ve seen, the one I would trust the most
to securely shut off this flow also happens to be the cheapest, and is a
genuine Jaguar part as well. It’s the all-plastic valve for the later
(XJ40) cars, and auto parts stores typically want about $10 for it. If your
car still has the all-metal piece of crap that came on the earlier cars,
it’d be a good plan to just change it out without even bothering to check it
for leakage.
Another large concern would be the integrity of the vacuum system. This
system is supposed to include check valves and a vacuum reservoir, with the
result that the heater valve will remain shut through throttle transients.
If there are leaks in the system or the check valves don’t work, flooring
the throttle can open the heater valve – and put a fresh charge of hot
water through the core. With the hot water being turned on and off each
time you leave a stoplight, the core will stay quite hot indeed, and so will
you.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 13:55:36 -0500
Subject: Teflon tape and Gasoline
I suggest that you do not use Teflon tape anywhere near your fuel lines.
I almost had a disaster in a 1947 Ercoupe once because of Teflon tape on a
gas fitting. It was my own doing, so I have no one to blame but myself. I
put Teflon on the fitting into the filter bowl. The tape deteriiorated in
the gasoline. A small piece of it ended up lodged in the needle valve in
the carb resulting in a constantly flooding carb. I first noticed it when I
tried to climb to altitude. At about 5,000 feet the engine quit. I droped
the nose and looked for a quick place to set her down. at 4,000 the engine
restarted to my surprise. I tried to get some altitude again in case it
quit I wanted lots of sky between me and the ground. At 5,000 feet it quit
again. Just then I noticed an old airstrip nearby and as the plane settled
to 4,000 feet again the engine restarted and I made it to the strip. What
was happening was that as the plane gained altitude it needed a leaner
mixture and since the carb was flooding it has such a rich mistrure that it
would quit running then as I decended the mixture became combustable again
and the engine would restart. I was lucky that the overflowing fuel did not
ignite and burn the aircraft in the air.
But on the Jag it would at least be embarasing if nothing else and no fire.
Teflon is not allowed (I didnt know it at the time) on aircraft fuel systems
and it shouldnt be on auto fuel systems.
Jim
===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"
John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 14:58:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Why two fuel tanks?
Mike Cogswell:
Early volkwagons had a manual reserve for the same reason motorcyles do, no
fuel guage. Run it 'til it stumbles, flip the reserve and start looking
for a gas station.VWs had a reserve to reduce the cost of the car. All this is interesting,
but irrelevant to the original question, since the Jag doesn’t have a reserve,
it has two tanks.
Check. And, to add to this, I’ll point out that motorcycles and old
Volkwagens don’t actually have a separate reserve tank, but rather two
pickups within the same tank. The main pickup is a ways off the bottom, and
exists ONLY to provide the warning that you’re getting low on fuel.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 14:58:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Teflon tape is for plumbing
Brian Sherwood:
In my work as an aircraft technician, I’ve frquently read reports of engine
failures caused by a sliver of teflon tape that wound up somewhere it didn’t
belong, like in a fuel system or oil system. The stuff is absolutely taboo
in the aircraft maintenance industry now. I use it all the time at home for
water pipe
connections, but I’d rather see Chevy wheels on a Jaguar, than teflon tape on
an oil drain plug.
Besides, there’s no need. There are RUBBER plugs available that will plug
the hole no matter what.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 14:58:16 -0400
Subject: Re: XJ6 S3, XJS, XJ40 Drain Plug Seals
Michael Neal:
I’ve seen fibre washers split when attacked by a monkey
from an oil changer, not a good leak to have.
Hmmmm, I’ve never had a problem. D’ya suppose it’s 'cause I never let the
monkeys near my car? Would these guys actually use an impact wrench on the
drain plug?
Anyway, here is my
solution to the problem. Use a metal washer with a type of silicon
rubber bonded to the inside. They are reusable and last for several
years. For the XJ6 S3 and the XJS the part # is EBC4896. The XJ40 uses
EBC 9044. These are seals for the banjo bolts on the trans cooler
lines and they are worth the $4. The later XJ40s came with these
updated seals.
Are we suggesting here that we buy the washers intended for the banjo bolts
and use them on the oil drain plug? NEAT! Are you saying that the later
XJ40’s came with them on the oil drain plug?
Would you be so kind as to provide the dimensions for each part number?
Hell, I might buy a bunch of these for OTHER cars!
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 15:29:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Larry B/Steve A.'s duel!
Subject: Re: Larry B/Steve A.'s duel!
Now there’s a man with my own type of soul…< BTW, I had decided that if the car didn’t run I would still buy it and
< keep it in my living room - just to look at!LLoyd
This is exactly what my father did to my Isetta 300- wouldn’t run, so, made a
phone booth out of it!
Mark McChesney
never should have left it there…
…in the living room that is.
From: kboetzer@auspex.com (Ken Boetzer)
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 12:55:18 -0700
Subject: Re: Larry B/Steve A.'s duel!
Now there’s a man with my own type of soul…
< BTW, I had decided that if the car didn’t run I would still buy it and
< keep it in my living room - just to look at!LLoyd
Yeah, It’s hard to find too much fault with an attitude like that. I had a
TZ 750 Yamaha living in the family room for a while. The wife didn’t mind so
much. If it was there at least I wasn’t out riding it. It was in line to
donate an engine to my D/SR project. An early 80’s final fling on track.
More an art project than anything. Just a street squirrel now.
Cheers,
Ken
From: “Robert W. Drummond, (918) 748.8887” Robert.Drummond@penta.ps.net
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 1996 14:22:06 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: XJ6 Fuel Tanks
As an XJ6 owner…
I thought the reason there were two fuel tanks on the XJ-6 was to maximize
both interior cabin space and trunk space by getting the fuel tanks into the
rear wings (fenders). This allowed the usual under-the-boot (trunk) spot to
hold a full-size spare as well as allowing the rear seat to be positioned
further to the rear.
On the other hand, those of you who suggested the “when in doubt, make it more complex” theory may be right. Robert '84 XJ6 '90 XJS From: “Ed Freige” edf@borrego.studio.sgi.com Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 13:42:32 -0700 Subject: Re: E-type stories… Being the proud owner of a 1966 E-Type Coupe for over 25 years, I would like to share a story about an encounter that took place in 1989: It was a sunny Saturday morning around 7:30AM when I was driving down a freeway on-ramp on my way to work (yep on a Saturday no less). As I entered the freeway at 50mph a brand new redder than red Ferrari Testarosa sporting those bug-antenna like side mirrors and paper license plate blew by me doing around 70mph, needless to say it startled me cause I was in kind of a daze with the morning and all. He passed so close that he actually buffeted my car. Instant adrenalin - and I took off after him and sat beside him in a heart beat, still doing around 70 (I am guessing on these speeds due to the fact that my speedo cable was not hooked up). He was an older fellow (about my age) wearing a chrome white driving suit with gloves and glasses that wrapped around his entire head. Casualy he looked over at me on his left and almost snickered as he eyeballed my white coupe with dark grey patches of primer here and there that sort of resembled a four legged creature that munches grass out in the fields. Anyhow, he decided to leave this primered beast and move on, as he nailed that beautiful red Ferrari, he didn’t even bother to shift, well I did and yep I blew right by him, and only after he realized that he was being had, did he down shift and try to catch me, well since we both were going the same direction we had to negotiate a somewhat small freeway interchange, and let me tell you he was on my butt as we went through the S curve and back out onto the flat, and this time he tried to pass me on my left, so I redlined (yep my tachometer worked), and once again I was walking away from him by a couple of mph which is quite a bit at speed. Abruptly he slowed down and took an off ramp, didn’t know if that was indeed his destination or he just wanted to find a place to get out and kick is car. My exit came so I got off and pulled into the company parking lot, jumped out of my coupe and walked around until my legs stopped shaking and my back unknotted. I know by now all of you reading this story are saying yeah-in your dreams, no way an E can blow off a Testarosa, but let me tell you it is true, and in the Testarosa owners eyes he was thoroughly beaten by a Jaguar XKE. Anyhow as I walked around the car I noticed a little water drizzle coming out from under the car, so I tilted up the bonnet and identified the problem to be the water hose clamp on the top of my small block LT-1 lump, it needed to be tightened a half turn. Cheers! From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 14:58:12 -0400 Subject: Re: Re[2]: Why two fuel tanks? <Check. And, to add to this, I’ll point out that motorcycles and old <Volkwagens don’t actually have a separate reserve tank, but rather two <pickups within the same tank. The main pickup is a ways off the bottom, and <exists ONLY to provide the warning that you’re getting low on fuel. My Mercedes is also this way, except that the switchover is automatic when the fuel reaches the top pickup. It also activates a light within the fuel gage that says you are on reserve. The reserve is 10 liters. Gives me an op- portunity to accurately measure fuel usage no matter how well I top off the tank. Come to think of it, the Jags can do the same thing! LLoyd From: kboetzer@auspex.com (Ken Boetzer) Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 14:22:02 -0700 Subject: Re: XJ6 S3, XJS, XJ40 Drain Plug Seals Are we suggesting here that we buy the washers intended for the banjo bolts and use them on the oil drain plug? NEAT! Are you saying that the later XJ40’s came with them on the oil drain plug? Would you be so kind as to provide the dimensions for each part number? Hell, I might buy a bunch of these for OTHER cars! Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | – Palm’s Postulate One can get almost any size desired from King Bearing. They’re a national industrial bearing and other nifty stuff “store”. You don’t need a resale license. Quantity means less $. $4 each is a little steep if you’re buying more than one or two. The big truck guys have them as well, but not in as wide a variety of sizes. Cheers, Ken From: Dan Jensen Dan.Jensen@GAT.COM Date: Fri, 07 Jun 1996 13:50:44 -0700 Subject: USED JAGUAR PURCHASE - PROFESSIONAL INSPECTION Having purchased three used Jaguars, I could not agree more with Lawrence Buja regarding the critical need for a JAGUAR (emphasis added) mechanic and expert to check out any Jag being seriously considered for purchase. Like many others who lurk the Jag chatline, I do a lot of my own car maintenance and repairs. Even so, I have learned the hard way that I am not a trained Jag mechanic and am thus likely to overlook a variety of problems, especially in the heat of the moment while looking at a possible addition to my stable of Jaguars. There are also side benefits of a professional inspection. When purchasing my '84 XJ6 several months ago, I asked my local Jaguar mechanic to check it out. By presenting the list of problems to the previous (and only) owner, he dropped the price 35%, an amount that has covered the cost of making the necessary repairs. I also had a quiet night’s sleep before deciding to write the check. Dan Jensen '81 & '83 XJ6 '84 XJS From: “Lauren E. Pratt” pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov Date: Fri, 7 Jun 96 15:49:45 PDT Subject: Re: Teflon /nylon washer on oil plug I can see where teflon tape is not the material to use on oil and gas line threads. But what about when used as a 3/32 washer under the head of the oil drain plug? I replaced an aluminum washer that was leaking with a nylon washer several years ago with no oil leaks and no need to torque to near stripping the threads. I don’t see how a nylon washer under the head of a plug could cause the same problem as teflon tape screwed in with the thread, as long as the washer was changed before it got brittle and cracked. Any one see a problem here? Cheers Lauren Name: Lauren Pratt E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov Date: 6/7/96 Time: 3:49:45 PM This message was sent by Chameleon From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell) Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 18:08:25 -0400 Subject: Re[3]: (general) wheels for courses, tyres too IMA.Boundary.482581438 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Description: cc:Mail note part When I saw my reply (below) I realized I didn’t make it clear. The lugnuts were securely in place on the hub, not the wheel! - MikeC ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Re[2]: (general) wheels for courses, tyres too Author: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell) at INTERNET Date: 06/07/96 10:32 AM You’re right about steel not being a perfect solution. I recall a photo in the local Jag club newsletter of a member holding the wheel from his early 60’s saloon. It had come off the car while competing (in an autocross, I think.) All the lugnuts were still securely in place! MikeC ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Re: (general) wheels for courses, tyres too Author: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com at INTERNET Date: 06/06/96 03:10 PM Uh I should point out that there have been a lot of problems w/steel wheels(too) work hardening at the mounting flange and cracking/breaking and wrecking peoples race weekends. Mark McChesney IMA.Boundary.482581438-- From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell) Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 18:21:35 -0400 Subject: Re: Webers and Gas-flowed heads for non-HE V12s Rather than all the work to the non-HE engine, have you considered buying a late model HE engine and installing it instead? I’ve thought about replacing the engine in my '74 E-Type with a fuel injected 6.0 HE engine. Put the non-HE on an engine stand as a conversation starter (yeah, that’s just my spare V-12 . . . .) and enjoy better performance and fuel mileage. I could always put the original back if I got excited about matching numbers. Perhaps one of the Chevy-lovers on the list will trade you a 6.0 from his XJ-S for a late model 350. <just a joke guys! come on now, put the rope down!> MikeC End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #138 ******************************** Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4) id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Sat, 8 Jun 1996 17:57:05 +0200 (MET DST) Date: Sat, 8 Jun 1996 17:57:05 +0200 (MET DST) Message-Id: 199606081557.RAA26585@ekeberg.sn.no X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #139 Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Precedence: bulk X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 8 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 139 Re: Why two fuel tanks? XJ 40 Air Con Re: Re[2]: Why two fuel tanks? Spicy E-Type story Introduction '89/XJ-40 / Troubles in Manhattan Re: SplitFire Spark Plugs - Dual Plugs [General] A/C and heater on/off controversy interior kits xke Jaguar fuel tanks Subject: USED JAGUAR PURCHASE - PROFESSIONAL INSPECTION E Type Story Re: interior kits xke Joke-delete if you hate humour! stalling problem Re: Lubricating speedo cables Re: XJ 40-Air Con Re: '87 XJE & Other 1987 Jaguar Trivia Re: Split Fires and Multiple Plugs I need help now!! Re: [General] A/C and heater on/off controversy From: lwalden@ebmud.com (Lee Walden) Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 15:34:01 -0700 Subject: Re: Why two fuel tanks? At 12:38 1996/06/07, Jan Wikstroem wrote:
i suspect that it was this plus, as you say, the difficulty of installing a
single large tank in the XJ, that led to the Jaguar design.
It’s a carryover design. My Mark X has dual tanks. This allows for a
deeper trunk as the space in the rear fenders is usually wasted space anyway.
From: Chris Longrigg chris@zodiac.win-uk.net
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 1996 23:34:44
Subject: XJ 40 Air Con
I have tried to bring some science to bear on the XJ 40 air con
performance. Reason: my car is being shipped to Australia on 16
July and I want to check the air is AOK.
We have had a few days of almost Kirby/Jim Isbell weather, ie
80-90 deg. For the test I obtained two small thermometer plus
hygrometer instruments with digital readout. I suspended one from
the interior mirror to read temp and humidity at face level and
mounted the other in front of the drivers side fascia vent to read
temp and humidity of supplied air.
The car was left in the sun for an hour to soak. Ambient was 86 deg,
40 percent humidity, bright sunlight.
Auto operation test. The car was started up with the following
settings:
Mode Auto
Fan speed Med
Humidity No drops
Temp selector 75 ie middle position
Time Interior Fascia
Temp Humid Temp Humid
1450 121 25 91 71
The fan started on High even though Med was selected due to the
large temp deviation from set point. Dropped to Med when interior
was about 90 deg. The structure (centre console etc) was
still giving out heat half an hour later but the readings
effectively stabilised at:
1525 86 20 55 50
Conclusion: not capable of lowering the interior temp to the
setpoint quickly or maybe at all. Incoming air about 30 deg below
ambient.
Raised humidity test. 2 drops was selected. Readings stabilised at:
1537 87 30 62 69
Conclusion: works correctly. (Cooling coil runs at higher temp thus
removing less moisture but also cooling air less).
Max cooling test using manual control.
Mode Manual
Fan High
Humidity No drops
Temp selector 65 ie minimum
1553 79 25 55 68
Conclusion: slightly more total cooling effect (or maybe the
structure was now giving out less heat) and slightly more humid due
to the high air flow rate. (Reducing fan speed to Med reduced
incoming air to 53 deg and interior was down to 76 deg, 30
humidity).
Summary: the Auto system works well, ie there is no point going to
Manual, but it is a bit marginal in terms of cooling capacity. Are
other cars better?
Before the test I had the system serviced. The existing R12 was
removed and weighed (1.87 lb). Then a hard vacuum was pulled to
remove air, moisture etc. Then the correct charge (2.5 lb) was put
in.
Chris
91 Sovereign 4.0
From: lwalden@ebmud.com (Lee Walden)
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 15:39:58 -0700
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Why two fuel tanks?
At 14:58 1996/06/07 -0400, Kirby Palm wrote:
Check. And, to add to this, I’ll point out that motorcycles and old
Volkwagens don’t actually have a separate reserve tank, but rather two
pickups within the same tank. The main pickup is a ways off the bottom, and
exists ONLY to provide the warning that you’re getting low on fuel.
Hey Kirby… How about the idea that in some areas, the petrol isn’t very
good and by putting the pickup way off the bottom of the tank, you’re less
likely to pick up water or other debris in the tank. If by chance you run
below the pickup level, the “second” pickup allows you to use the “lesser”
quality fuel at the bottom of the tank. Even so, the pickup assembly still
protruded into the tank aways and prevented you from completely draining the
tank. On the Mark X the pickups in the tanks are surrounded by a fine brass
mesh screens and the pickup rests about 6mm off of the bottom of the tank
above the main cleanout plug. The screens are attached to the cleanout
plugs which means they tear off if you try and remove the plugs. Lee
From: Chris Longrigg chris@zodiac.win-uk.net
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 00:43:06
Subject: Spicy E-Type story
Lawrence Buja invited tragic or comic E-Type stories and I have one
which is both, but I hesitate to publish it - I’m not usually this
daft, honest.
One of my first jobs was to change the oil filter. This is not a
modern spin-on type but consists of a cartridge inside a cover with
a central bolt which pulls the cover onto an O-ring in a groove. I
changed the O-ring and thought it was in the groove, even though
working through the hand hole in the undertray it was impossible to
see all round the groove even with a mirror. But it wasn’t in the
groove…
Although dark, I eagerly went for a test drive round my usual
circuit which involves about a mile of warm-up followed by blasting
up a long hill to allow glorious use of full power. As I reached the
top, doing about 90, I routinely scanned the oil pressure: ZERO!
I switched off and coasted to a rapid halt. Oil everywhere, on the
undertray, under the car, on the rear wheel. Sump empty.
I walked to the nearest petrol station, bought 2 gal of oil,
poured it in and started the engine. To my utter relief, oil
pressure appeared. I set off for home, switching off between short
bursts and coasting down the long hill.
At the bottom I had to brake to turn off and as I did so - the
whole bonnet (hood) swung up, completely obscuring the way ahead. I
had to stop quickly or I’d hit something but any decel caused the
front to drop and scrape the fender on the road. Ugggh. With all
the excitement and in the dark I had omitted to latch the bonnet and
the PO had removed the safety catch.
The next day, in the light, I retraced my journey. The oil trail
ran clearly all the way to the bottom of the hill, then
completely stopped. I can therefore only assume the car did at least
half a mile on mostly full power with no oil pressure. Amazing. And
no after effects - plenty of oil pressure afterwards and no bearing
problems.
What oil? Castrol GTX.
Two merciful escapes in one night. Much to be thankful for.
Chris
E-Type 2+2. (Now sold to buy XJ 40).
From: “Robert Johnson, D.Sc.” bjomejag@sover.net
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 1996 21:51:17 -0500
Subject: Introduction
My name is Bob Johnson. I am working on a collection of examples of
cars that were designed and engineered by a very capable man, William
Lyons. I am intrigued by the quality and esthetics of these vehicles;
and the fact that a single person had such a significant contribution
to mankind and those of us who love an automobile. I will share more
in the future.
Bob
From: Tommi.Matsubayashi@interport.net (Tommi Matsubayashi)
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 22:51:47 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: '89/XJ-40 / Troubles in Manhattan
I have a Jag in Manhattan. I used to use GEORGE HAUG for all car work, and
was terrific, especially Chinese Eddy gave me various feedback, tips,
stories and experiences. I always enjoyed to put my car in the garage. Old
good days has gone now. GEORGE HAUG disappeared with its British
atmosphere. I wonder where he is now.
And I drove my jag to new garage for the usual lube change and NYS
inspection. Later I was told to change 1) all of brake pads and front
rotor, 2) A/C Receiver dryer and high pressure hose, 3) engine gasket. The
total estimation is around USD3,000.-. It is very cheap if I were in
Japan, but I doubted it very much in the States. They didn’t let me drive
out without NYS insepction so I got new four brake pads. It costed me
USD500.00-. The money is an issue, but more or less I need a trustful
garage by all means. (If above economics is quite reasonable in this city,
my sincere aplogogies to the garage. But I will not buy their non-tasteful
attitude)
The greatest disappointment was A/C. Before driving to the garage, it was
still working. It was not cold, but still cool. When I picked up my jag,
it was dead and hot air coming from the vent. Also a front brake pad was on
for less than 9,000 miles.
Now I am looking for decent garage in the greater manhattan. I would
appreciate it if anyone could help me out on this.
Thanks, TM
_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/
_/e$B!!!e(BTommy Matsubayashi at tomofumi@interport.net _/
/ e$B!!!“”“”!!!“”“”!!!e(B/
_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 22:15:43 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: SplitFire Spark Plugs - Dual Plugs
On Thu, 6 Jun 1996, White, Dick wrote:
You don’t have to. There is a picture of one in Jeremy Boyce’s book ‘The
Jaguar XK Series.’ It looks like a regular XK head but has 12 spark plug
holes. There is no mention of it in the text though. It doesn’t say who
built it or where it was used - just this very curious picture.
Curious indeed! In fact, it’s downright bizarre. Does anybody out there
know anything about this beast?
Larry Lee
From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 1996 06:06:11 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: [General] A/C and heater on/off controversy
Kirby’s comments about the heater beeing shut off at full A/C and vice
versa makes a lot of sense. However, one thing has been bothering me as I
live in a relatively cool climate and seldom need the A/C.
I have an '86 SIII XJ6 4.2 and I can actually feel it when the A/C
compressor sets in. I mean, I can feel the car slowing a little bit as
the engine seems to loose power. That compressor must cost a lot to run!
If the car is idling the compressor starting up almost causes the engine
to stall. Is this normal?
I rather supect I could save a lot of petrol/gas by simply overriding the
A/C and not allowing the compressor to start unless I really want it to.
How would I do that? Comments anyone?
Gunnar
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar XJ6 4.2 Sovereign
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | Vicki who? What .sig virus?
From: zlozower@primenet.com (neil zlozower)
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 21:14:25 -0700 (MST)
Subject: interior kits xke
To: owner-jag-lovers@sn.no
From: zlozower@primenet.com (neil zlozower)
Subject: interior kits xkeMy friend needs a black interior kit for his 67 xke roadster. Does anyone
out there have any experience with the interior kits from different
manufacters? I have a kit in my 64 xke roadster from XKSS that was in Oxnard
California but I never see them advertising anymore! My interior looks great!!Does anyone have the phone number for G. W. Bartletts interiors. Any
experiences with them??Zloz
64 XKE roadster
From: Dikavik@aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 1996 00:44:45 -0400
Subject: Jaguar fuel tanks
I hadn’t seen this explanation of the Jaguar two tank configuration. If I
missed it, sorry for the redundancy.
To the best of my knowledge, the first jaguar sedan to have the two tank
set-up was the 3.8S, which was also the first Jaguar sedan to feature IRS as
in the E-type. (The earlier MK 2 type sedans had solid rear axles.)
I am of the opinion that the 3.8S’ combination of the IRS, dual exhaust (one
on each side) and spare tire probably used up too much rear underbody space
to allow a single good-sized tank in the same area. Hence, a tank was placed
in each fender to increase the total fuel capacity and offer a cruising range
appropriate to a luxury car.
The limited underbody space likely continued to some degree in subsequent
models and the desired boot-area shape of the 420 and XJ6/12 may have been
facilitated by keeping the tanks in the fenders.
Dick Cavicke
From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Fri, 07 Jun 96 22:46:00 PDT
Subject: Subject: USED JAGUAR PURCHASE - PROFESSIONAL INSPECTION
Team,
Right on about the professional inspection. Tomorrow (Saturday) I’m
going to meet the gentleman with the '62 3.8 OTS - at my mechanic’s shop
in Placerville. I’ve captured the inputs from all who sent them, thank
you very much, and I’m preparing my own checklist. I’ll let you know
how we get on. The owner is driving from Reno, which is about 2 hours
away. He’s got to cross a 7,000 ft pass on the way in. Between the
distance, climb, and ambient temperature (it’ll be 90’F by the time he
gets there) the car should be stressed and any cooling problems will be
obvious.
Ryan and Jim, I might (might) be able to get to Hayward on Sunday. It
depends on if my kids think it’s a good thing to do.
Regards to all,
David
'84 XJ6 VDP (which may need to move over a slot in the garage)
'87 Volvo 745 TGA (fire engine red)
From: Don Tracey dont@echuca.net.au
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 06:29:43 +1100
Subject: E Type Story
Not an E Type owner,but here is my story.
In about 1985 F.R.W.(Lofty) England visited Australia .In Melbourne,the
JCCV organised a tour of members garages to look at restoration
projects. One member had built a shed in his back yard and had an E type
body on a rotisserie and with a mig welder was indeed a serious
restorer. He gave a talk, how it was a US import and how he had replaced
almost all the body panels because of rust.
The grand man looked thoughtful,put his hand on his chin "Rust
prevention!"he said “when we built these,you know we never painted
anywhere you couldn’t see.”
And as any E Type restorer will tell you he was right.
Regards Don Tracey
From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 08:28:42 +0100
Subject: Re: interior kits xke
I sent this to Neil Z., then thought perhaps others
could use the info (I sure could have a month ago!)
Hi Zloz,
Are you kidding? After about 15gazillion dollars…
I have experience with EVERYONE!
How are you? And the car?
My interior kit was made by Bartletts and it’s about
3/4 installed now. My upholsterer owed me some favours
so I bought a couple of hides and he did my seats and
the door panels. I bought all the rest from Bartletts,
except I covered all the dash, console sides, etc. myself.
Bartletts charge about $8. for colour samples and their
catalogue. Then they make the pieces that you order.
You can order a full interior kit or just a piece at a time.
Their number is Bartletts 1-800-338-8034. They told me
it would take them about 3 weeks before shipping but I
think I got their stuff in about 2 weeks! The catalogue is
vital because there are no instructions (just a huge box full
of “stuff”) but I first laid out all the pieces on the floor then,
following the exploded diagram, I laid them in place in the car
to check fit, etc. It is all fitting with virtually no
trimming.
Hope this helps.
Good luck and let me know how it turns out.
Charles
From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 08:40:34 +0100
Subject: Joke-delete if you hate humour!
Now there’s a man with my own type of soul…LLoyd
< BTW, I had decided that if the car didn’t run I would still buy it and
< keep it in my living room - just to look at! > CharlesYeah, It’s hard to find too much fault with an attitude like that. I had a
TZ 750 Yamaha living in the family room for a while. The wife didn’t mind so
much. If it was there at least I wasn’t out riding it. >Cheers, >Ken
Ken, your machine in the LR reminds me of a NYorker cartoon, a couple
are entertaining another couple in their living room and a railway track runs
through the middle of the room. Proud owner says, “We took the railway to
court, and we won! When they go through the house they are not allowed
to blow the whistle.”
Charles
From: arnie@qnet.com (Ted Arnold)
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 1996 06:55:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: stalling problem
I have a '91 XJ40 that’s doing a strange thing. Maybe someone can help.
The engine seems to hesitate when braking to a stop. The car almost stalls
out but about half the time almost stalls out but then recovers. The faster
the stop the stronger the hesitation. Yesterday, after a stop and stall, my
fuel guage dropped to almost empty (from about a third full) and the “fuel
low” light came on. Also, my “expected range” dropped from 110 miles to 3
miles, again, after I re-started my car. Slowly, over the next 5 miles my
fuel guage returned to 1/3 and my “expected range” returned to around 100
miles. Any suggestions?
From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 1996 11:08:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Lubricating speedo cables
Egil Kvaleberg writes:
EK> …Oiling speedo cables will cause wavering
EK> needles and all sorts of trouble. Speedo cables only require a very
EK> thin layer of grease. When installing a new cable, note that they
EK> usually come out of the box correctly lubricated.
I guess that last is really the bottom line. If the thing’s lubricated
properly out of the box, why mess with it? Stock cables produce problems
infrequently enough & are VERY cheap compared to the instruments that I
wouldn’t feel compelled to go the plastic bag route.
-Steve A.
From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 1996 11:08:52 -0400
Subject: Re: XJ 40-Air Con
Bob Bagramian writes:
BB> Can anyone complete the discussions on XJ 40 air conditioning dash
BB> controls by explaining the function of the first button in manual
BB> or automatic mode?
Evan Williams writes back:
EW> The manual mode is like any average car where
EW> you set the heat and thats it. Automatic is like climate control and
EW> when set to the temp you like will maintain that temp no matter
EW> what the outside temp is.
Actually, the manual mode is also like climate control (sort of) & the
difference is:
Manual - Air coming out of the vents is at the selected temperature. Cabin
temperature is not directly controlled. In a normal car, the heat setting
controls the heater valve & not the output temperature.
Automatic - Air coming out of the vents is hotter or cooler to maintain the
cabin at the selected temperature.
-Steve A.
From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 1996 11:09:00 -0400
Subject: Re: '87 XJE & Other 1987 Jaguar Trivia
Lee Walden writes:
LW> Just curious, how does Jag identify the “Model Years”? Is a June 86
LW> car really an 87 model? If so my brother’s 66 Mark X is really a 67
LW> since it was “delivered” in June 66, and that would make it more
LW> valuable as there weren’t very many 67 Mark X’s.
Jaguar identifies Years the same way that most manufacturers do - by whatever
happens to be expedient. The first year US market XJ40’s were sold as 1988
cars though they were often built in early 1987. I had a SII E Type that was
sold as a 1971 that was probably built around September 1970. It wasn’t as
valuable as a good 1966 SI would have been. Alfa Romeo sold 1974’s in
1974-1976 (emissions rules).
On any older Jaguar, the year is secondary to miles & condition. Even first
or last years of production. I looked in the old car price guide and Mark
X’s were all the same price regardless of year. Same goes for most any older
Jaguar, EXCEPT where significant mechanical modifications made particular
points in time either more or less desirable. Example - to most people, E
Types with the Jaguar gearbox (last 3.8l & all 4.2l cars) are worth somewhat
more than Moss gearbox cars. More recent example - H&E XJS convertibles will
settle at a different price than “factory” XJS convertibles. Higher or lower
will depend on consensus judgment about desirability.
-Steve A.
From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 1996 11:09:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Split Fires and Multiple Plugs
Jim Isbell writes:
JI> In aircraft the use of two plugs was NOT for the control of the
JI> flame front, hell they didnt even know about that in those days. It
JI> was done for reliability
JI> There used to be a plug called the “fire injector” that was offered
JI> by J.C.Whitney that had essentialy four electrodes that surrounded
JI> the center electrode. It worked well in air cooled engines for me
JI> but didnt even work in my 400HP Lincoln. I assumed it had something
JI> to do with the cylinder temperatures in air colled engines VS the
JI> temperatures in water cooled engines.
Golly, those “fire injector” plugs sound a lot like “Golden Lodge” spark
plugs. I always used the Lodge plugs in my Alfa Romeos, partly because
that’s what Alfa recommended. They seemed to work pretty good so I wasn’t
tempted to fiddle with regular plugs. They were reliable & I can testify
that they worked just fine in water cooled engines. Never tried the Lodge
plugs in any Jaguar as the Alfa plugs came pre-gapped & wasn’t sure how
that’d translate for a Jag…
-Steve A.
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 09:41:04 -0500
Subject: I need help now!!
I purchased an oil pressure sender to replace the faulty one in my Series
III XJ6. The book shows that it resides above the oil filter. It aint
there. Where is the damned thing? I cant see in there, but feeling around
with my hand I manage to find that there is a small diameter steel or copper
tube coming of just forward of where the pressure sender is supposed to be
located, and there is a strange casting that has a large hole in the top
that is approximately in the location the book shows the sender to be in.
But there is NO SENDER. Hell there arent even any wires in or near that
location.
I am working on the car now so if you happen to know the answer, please
respond NOW.
Jim
“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil
From: Peter Morris pmorris@tfb.com
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 1996 08:56:20 -8
Subject: Re: [General] A/C and heater on/off controversy
On 8 Jun 96 at 6:06, Gunnar Helliesen wrote:
I have an '86 SIII XJ6 4.2 and I can actually feel it when the A/C
compressor sets in. I mean, I can feel the car slowing a little bit
as the engine seems to loose power. That compressor must cost a lot
to run! If the car is idling the compressor starting up almost
causes the engine to stall. Is this normal?
Gunnar,
I, too, have an '86 XJ6 SIII, and have noticed (can’t NOT notice) a
power drop or surge as the A/C compressor kick in and out.
I’ve been told it is normal…
Regards,
Peter Morris
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jag-lovers-digest Sunday, 9 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 140
Re: RX-7’s, Split Fires and Multiple Plugs
Dont need help now.
3 E-Type stories. 1970 E Type 2+2
Re: [General] A/C and heater on/off controversy
XJ40 stalling problem
XKE Story: how not to buy a Jag
Re: Jaguar fuel tanks
'88 XJ40 Front Suspension
Re: Jaguar fuel tanks
Re: XK120 steering expander spring
Re: cooling + pinging&temperature , ignition + tube amps
Re: battery relocation
Re: Spicy E-type stories wanted.
Re: Why two fuel tanks?
Re: XJS Convertible
From: DavidZ333@aol.com
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 1996 12:18:39 -0400
Subject: Re: RX-7’s, Split Fires and Multiple Plugs
Steve’s note about plugs and J. C. Whitney provokes me once again to
Repeat : FYI : Mazda RX-7’s have used 4 prong spark plugs as standard from
the start
of the series. Not a double snake tongue but rather 4 equally divided
individual contacts.
I am a British car fan and an XK120 owner- I am also looking for an ever so
solid and reasonably priced MKll; nevertheless, the first and third
generation RX-7’s are wonderful. I cannot imagine a more interesting,
inexpensive, reliable, attractive, or versatile street racer than a first
gen RX-7.
God save the queen
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 11:59:12 -0500
Subject: Dont need help now.
I found the oil pressure sender, about 3" aft of where the book said it
should be. That 3" is significant when you are going on feel alone and cant
see what you are doing! I removed it, “cleaned” (sucked on the input port
and scratched the junk off the screen) and replaced it. Th oil presure is
now 75PSI instead of 40PSI. Great fix if you have low oil pressure…#8-).
BTW I will suggest that if you remove the hose clamp that holds a small hose
to the inside of the wheel well just below thw air filter and of course
remove the air filter it is much easier to reach the sender to change it
out. On removing the hose clamp which is on a “stand off” be acrefull that
you dont drop the “stand off” because it is a bitch to retrieve. Also,
before you do it, see if you can figure out how to retighten that bolt and
let me know because mine wont tighten up and I can’t feel a nut behind the
wheel to grab ahold of.
Jim
“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 11:59:08 -0500
Subject: 3 E-Type stories. 1970 E Type 2+2
#1 Right after I got the car I was demonstrating it to the wife. She was
somewhat of a skeptic about spending $13,000 for a 23 year old car. I was
proudly exclaming how modern it was since it had air conditioning. The
outside temp that day was 105F.
As we cruised smugly down a very heavily trafficed street in town, smiling
proudly at the pedestrians as they admired it, suddenly there was the sound
of a 12 guage shotgun going off. Scared the bejeuses out of me. White
smoke began pouring from every louver in the hood, out from under the wheel
wells and any other place it could find its way out. I pulled quickly to
the side of the road and poped the bonnet. It was imediately obvious that
the AC hose ran too close to the exhaust manifold and had exploded spraying
freon onto the manifold generating the white smoke. I immediately slammed
the bonnet down and drove off to the utter amazement of the spectators who
had gathered. They couldnt believe that it was still able to drive away.
#2 A week later I was cruising (if you can call 120MPH cruising) down a
familiar country road where I knew there would be no police officers. I was
wrong. As I came around a corner to enter the freeway there was a trooper
looking right at me through the sights of his radar gun. I hit the brakes
and slowed to about 80-90 by the time I got to him, but he had caught me at
120 and I knew it. The limit was 55! As I got to him a big smile spread
across his face as he droped the gun to his side and just waved as I blew
past. Sometimes it pays to be driving an exotic. If I had been in the
Seville I would have paid dearly for that indescression.
#3 This one realy scared me. I was driving a twisty back country road late
at night at about 80mph when I reached down to turn off the interior light.
Hit the wrong switch and extinguished both the headlights and dash lights.
All those damned switches (they wouldnt pass DOT now days) feel the same in
the dark and I couldn’t find the one for the headlights! I just started
slowing down as fast as I could and relied on my memory of what I had seen
before the lights went out to guide the car. Luckily I got it stoped on the
side of the road and then found the correct switch.
Jim
“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil
From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 15:48:54 +0100
Subject: Re: [General] A/C and heater on/off controversy
At 08:56 AM 08/06/96 -8, you wrote:
On 8 Jun 96 at 6:06, Gunnar Helliesen wrote:
I have an '86 SIII XJ6 4.2 and I can actually feel it when the A/C
compressor sets in. I mean, I can feel the car slowing a little bit
as the engine seems to loose power. Gunnar,I, too, have an '86 XJ6 SIII, and have noticed (can’t NOT notice) a
power drop or surge as the A/C compressor kick in and out.
I’ve been told it is normal…>Regards, Peter Morris
I have zero experience with XJ6’s and no jag experience except
my own E, but I have had two Audi’s and it was a given then if
I wanted a quick burst of power at speed I would switch off the A/C.
I notice it very slightly on my 95 Caravan but not nearly as pronounced
as the Audis (Audi?) I believe it is quite normal.
Charles Daly
'62 E-Type, ots
(if I want A/C I just pull back a bit of the weather strip:)
From: Chris Longrigg chris@zodiac.win-uk.net
Date: Sat, 08 Jun 1996 22:34:42
Subject: XJ40 stalling problem
Ted Arnold wrote:
I have a '91 XJ40 that’s doing a strange thing… Slowly, over
the next 5 miles my fuel guage returned to 1/3 and my “expected
range” returned to around 100 miles. Any suggestions?
Expected range does vary because it is based on the current average
mpg. If you reset the system and stand idling for a few minutes the
average mpg will be calculated as zero. Hence the estimated range
will be calculated as zero. When you drive off the average mpg rises
and the range rises. (I haven’t actually tried this! But I have
noticed estimated range go up and down during a journey according to
driving pattern).
Chris
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 1996 19:04:44 -0400
Subject: XKE Story: how not to buy a Jag
Last year, we began looking for a new old car. My dream car was a
mid-30’s Bentley, but my wife couldn’t warm up to the idea. After looking
around a bit, flirting with an Alfa, we realized that an XKE would be the
perfect driven classic.
Although the Series I's looked the best, we wanted a Series II or
III, because of the relatively modern safety equipment. We then searched
high and low for a good car. I’ve never seen so much rust in my life! We saw
cheap cars, which only lived because they were XKE’s, and expensive cars
which weren’t worth the price.
Finally I saw an ad in that national publication with the brown
cover. A ‘perfect’, ‘fully restored’, ‘rust free’, 1969 XKE 2+2. It had
several ‘high performance’ modifications, including defederalized triple
SU’s and headers. I called the soon to be PO immediately.
He said that the ad had a great response, and that several buyers
had already called, and the car would go to the first money. He was selling
the car to make space for a new project Porche. To save time, he had made up
some videos, and gladly sent me a copy.
The car looked great on tape! Everything the ad had said. Perfect,
just perfect! One problem: the car was located in a great American city
about 800 miles from New York, so I couldn’t go out to inspect it.
Fortunately, I knew someone in that city who was persuaded, reluctantly, to
go out and see the car. He called me enthusiastically endorsing the
purchase: in his defense, he had protested from the first that he was not an
expert. Everything seemed ok, so I bought the car then and there. Yes,
that’s right, sight unseen. I was afraid that one of those other buyers
would snatch it up.
I then went back to the brown book to arrange for shipping. I found
a transporter who ‘just happened’ to be passing by where the car was, and
would be glad to pick it up for a reduced rate. He called two days later and
told me that his truck broke down and he couldn’t make the pickup. So I
started looking for another shipper. Before I could cut a deal, the first
trucker called back, reported that his truck was on the road, and that he
would do the job for the original price. A bargain is a bargain, so I said
go do it. He caled me up a week later to let me know that another emergency
had come up, and he didn’t get to my car. He had a number of scheduled hauls
to do, so he couldn’t do the pick up for nearly two weeks.
I thought about it a bit, and decided to take the train out, and
drive the car home. Now when the PO heard about this, he was verrrrry
nervous. I should have known something then. He sent the car to a local Jag
mechanic to have the carbs set up, as a favor. That is where I picked it up.
I arrived at the Jag shop on an overcast morning. The place seemed
very competent, with XJS’s everywhere you looked, and a couple of XKE’s. The
PO wasn’t there, but the mechanic had the keys. My car wasn’t hard to find.
It was cherry red, and loaded with boxes of old parts(garbage). I checked it
over quickly. It looked a lot sadder than in the video, but maybe it was the
overcast morning. Without any further ado, I jumped in and drove off…
About ten blocks from the garage, the engine started to sputter. I
looked at the guages, as I should have from the first, and the battery was
on full discharge. I chugged into a gas station, popped the bonnet, and had
the attendant charge up the battery. Hopped back in, went back to the Jag
mechanic. Alternator wasn’t charging. New alternator installed. Still not
charging. Uh-oh says Mr. Jagwrench, *&%$#$% PO has totally miswired these
relays. A few minutes of fiddling and we are back in business. Do I want to
keep the new alternator? Sure. $350.
All the way home smelling raw gas and foul exhaust. Eight hundred
miles of pure agony. Even the thumbs up and envious stares of passersby is
small compensation for a rolling gas chamber. I drove as fast as possible,
with the windows fully down.
Get home, put it in the garage. Soon the entire house smells of raw
gasoline. Wife pushes me out of bed to do something, before we blow up. Pop
the bonnet. Fiber washers on the fuel rail had either been reused or
abused… turning on the ignition shows a steady drip, drip, drip from every
banjo fitting. No new washers, so I drain the rail and use a wire hanger to
hold it high. Wash up the gas as best I can, and go to bed. The house will
continue to smell of gas for two weeks. My wife knows not to ask if we made
a mistake.
It is now almost a year later. How close to 'perfect' was this Jag?
Well, the body is, indeed, very nice. Not perfect, but fine for a driven
car. There is controllable rust in the floorboards, and some bondo in the
nose. The drivers door sags, and I have a new hinge waiting to be installed.
I happened into a complete interior kit, which I have been installing a bit
at a time.
The drivetrain is ok, but I need to adjust the tappets one of these
days. The rear axle is an untouched original. No problems, but not really a
good thing in a 27 year old car. The previous owner had installed a hot cam,
which has made the car really hard to tune. A very good Jag guy told me that
the flywheel is somehow 5 degrees off, which contributes to the tuning problem.
The brakes are problematic. The PO told me he installed a rebuilt
booster, metal sleeves, silicone brake fluid and new lines. All of the
above applies only to the fronts, however. I had to replace the check valve
and all the vacuum hoses.
The tires, I was told, had only a couple of thou on them. This may
have been the case, but the car had sat so long, the tires had uncorrectable
flat spots. The wires were so rusty and out of true, that they went to Jag
heaven with the tires. Wheel bearings and ball joints are tired, but
serviceable for now.
The headers had to go. There just wasn't enough room for the exhaust
clamps. Without clamps, exhaust blew right into the passenger compartment.
With clamps, the exhaust caught on every bump, and finally tore itself
apart. Noise, sickening fumes, bad smells… my new Double SS exhaust fixed
all of that!
The heater didn't leak when the car was delivered. This is because
it was capped off. I had to replace the entire heater box, core , and fan.
Every hose in the cooling system had to be replaced. The PO had evidently
had some hose problems. In some cases, these were fixed by patching in a new
segment of hose with a piece of pipe to connect to the stub of the old hose.
The carbs had to be completely rebuilt, and I am still fiddling with
them. The original jets had totally petrified! The distributor (a dual-point
Mallory) has caused a few problems: It was delivered with only one set of
points, rather than two, and the hold down bolt was stripped, which didn’t
help that timing problem.
The PO told me he had installed 'new cooling fans'. One of these
just burned out, in a cloud of black smoke. I guess it’s easy to mistake
‘new’ with ‘bought a part at the junkard’. The ‘complete air conditioner’
had been rendered inoperative because the headers didn’t leave room for the
hoses. The PO just cut the hoses away. There was so much dirt in the system
that every part will need to be replaced before it will run again. (I just
found the last part!, soon , soon!).
These are just a few of the larger problems I have encountered. For
all that, I am very, very happy with this car. I thought I had a bargain: I
actually paid exactly what the car was worth. As the deal becomes a memory,
I find that the car is improving by the day. We have been able to take it
out every weekend, and even on a few long trips. Every time I drive it, I
find and fix another problem. I think that soon it will settle down to
normal maintenance.
Only one big problem remains: the trucker who I originally hired to
haul the car back keeps calling for work. Does anyone have a car this guy
can haul? Get him off my back! Please!
Moral of the story: never, never again will I buy sight unseen.
Never, never again without professional advice. And if the price seems too
good to be true: of course it is!
Mike and Iris Frank
1969 XKE 2+2 (OUR CAT)
From: ajbeale@squirrel.com.au (A.J. Beale)
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 1996 10:09:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Jaguar fuel tanks
In the suggestions as to why Jaguar used two fuel tanks, there seems to be
something missing. If it was just a matter of convenience, wouldn’t they
have run a balance pipe between the tanks to avoid other duplication? Alan.
From: rs@telerama.lm.com (Richard Shehab)
Date: Sat, 8 Jun 1996 22:23:42 -0400
Subject: '88 XJ40 Front Suspension
My '88 XJ40 has 105,000 miles. When I am driving on a bumpy surface the
left (drivers side) front suspension seems to “bottom-out”. The front
shocks seem fine and I just had new upper bushings put on them. The
bushings improved the ride but there is still a “knock” when I hit a bump,
especially when making a right hand turn.
It seems to happen more when I’m driving slower than when I’m going faster.
Does anybody have an idea what might be causing this problem?
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 1996 00:22:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Jaguar fuel tanks
In the suggestions as to why Jaguar used two fuel tanks, there seems to be
something missing. If it was just a matter of convenience, wouldn’t they
have run a balance pipe between the tanks to avoid other duplication? Alan.
Lets compare two other cars that both used twin tanks with a balance pipe.
The first is the mid-80’s BMW 32*. This had two flat tanks, one under each
rear seat section. The tanks were connected by a large rubber pipe running
right under the driveshaft. The fuel filler is way up on the fender, well
above the tank level. The system only needs one filler, due to the size of
the interconnecting pipe. This system works fine… though I’ve always wondered
what would happen when the driveshaft center support or rear u-joint
failed…
The other car is closer to the Jaguar design; Two upright tanks, one in each
fender cavity, with the fillers right at the top of the tanks. This was my
first car, so I have some experience with the design, a 67 Mini Cooper S.
The two tanks were connected only by a common fuel pickup pipe of 5/16"
diameter (or was it 1/4"?). You start filling the left tank. When it’s full,
you run around and start filling the right tank. But the left tank is also
draining into the right one. So, once the right one is full, you run around and
top the left on back up. You could go through several interations of this,
except I never filled the tanks beyond 3/4 full anyway. The reason for this is
I regularly parked the car on the side of a heavily crowned road. If the tanks
were full when parked, the left tank would merrily piddle, via the balance
pipe, a few gallons of petrol out the right filler cap.
In the case of the mini, the caps were vented. All the XJ’s (at least US spec)
had non-vented caps. But the same problem would apply. Rather than the fuel
running from the high tank out the low filler, it would run from the high
tank through the low tanks vent system, and out the charcoal canister.
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
From: REMANKING@aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 1996 00:51:56 -0400
Subject: Re: XK120 steering expander spring
Okay XK fans, what is the general consensus on which way the steering column
expander spring goes? Does the narrow end go towards the steering wheel, or
towards the firewall. I have seen pictures with it both ways. Also are just
the two end caps suppose to be chrome or should the cap that goes over the
end of the column be chrome also. My car had the third cap over the column
painted black and just the two end caps for the spring/expander were chromed,
one large one small.
With the “Brooklands” wheel I have it tends to look better with the large end
up because of the large adjusting nut this wheel has. I have recently
flipped it over so that the small end is up 'cause I think that is the
“correct” way. I have my wheel all the way out as that is the only way I can
fit into the car (knee clearance) so the expander spring is noticeable. I
just replaced my horn button with one from Bill Tracy. I have two originals
but they where both starting to get fine cracks in the plasic. The repro is
nice but the detail on the Jaguar head is no where as nice as the originals
which have much more relief and better chrome. The profile is also slightly
different than the originals.
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 09 Jun 96 01:19:23 EDT
Subject: Re: cooling + pinging&temperature , ignition + tube amps
Hi, Jim Isbell an dlist
Thanks for your reply on the cooling system on Jags. Now that it is 28-33 deg
Celsius in Germany I suddenly tend to agree that it is stupid to cool heated
air, when the cooling is more needed. My newly topped up Xj12 gets really hot ,
but still only max 95 deg C (according to the meter) but driving around town
mak4es it evidennt that the air-co cooling is not enough, neiter inside nor at
the air-co radiator. Leaving the engine to cool after stopping the engine will
produce 110 deg C temps, and the fan goes on a few minutes, - as it should, but
as I have indicated earlier, I would prefer to have another “control” system by
which I can set the working temp at 80 deg. and also to “command” overcooling at
the last 2 km before stopping. I just dislike the engine sitting there getting
150 deg C under the bonnet.
I guess I will make louvres one day I have a few thousand to “burn”.
Another note of your prompts me.
You write that (30/5-96) that you have a racing car running on: “115 octane
gasoline in it because it will prevent pre-ignition and allows the car to
therefore run cooler and with less stress”.
I dont know of pinging causing increased tempertature ? are you sure ?, where
did you get that from ?
pinging causes loss of power, causes stress and is of course not good, but
temperature ??. Temperature increase I understand comes from running
stochiometric fuel ratios, and lean ratios.
Another point : the use of 115 Octane fuel allows to increase the compression
ratio , in general, but is not the only truth in this area. A V12 12.5
compression ratio without the HE heads would result in continious pinping i woul
imagine, so combustion chamber layout is a vital and apparently black art. I
read somewhere lately a manufacturer is experimenting with a superlean running
engine being able to run at ut to 40:1 ratio where stochiometric is 14.7 : 1 (kg
of air to kg of fuel).
However advancing iginition beyond that which is normal for a given engine
should not result in increased
efficiency nor power I would have thought, unless of course the ignition is
deliberately set later to avoid
pinging, but I can’t really believe that.
Everyone can understand that development of pressure due to the combustion
process BEFORE the top
dead center will decrease power (the pressure “brakes” the piston). Likewise
development of pressure
after the top dead center adds power. The most power is generated when the
integral of (the summing up
of) the pressure times the length of the “arm” which is the piston conrod
reaches a maximum. The
maximum power total is thus a function of the ignition timing namely where
the"loss" of pre-top dead
centre combustion pressure build-up is outweighted but the fact that the
maximum pressure integral is
appearing at the right “time”. The reason for a speed dependent advance is
simply that fuel burns at a
certain speed dependent upon fuel air ratio and compression ratio., but is not
dependent of the speed of the engine (the fuel does not really care…). It is
thus necessary to advance the timing with increasing
engine speed (linearly).
Since the advance is dependent on the fuel-air mix ratio, the advance could thus
be advanced a “tick” when
the injected engine is a full throttle (this commanding a 12 % fuel enrichment
in the V12 Jaguar). does anybody know if this is the case ?.
Those that have followed my note this far can now appreciate that I dearly want
to get rid of the stupid mechanical vacumm advance unit in my Jaguars. This is a
leftover from the age when digital computers (or even analogue computers) were
something which costed a fortune and filled a room. They definately do not
belong in a modern Jaguar (e.g after 1985 about , when computers started the
revolution :-). My '78 XJ coupe will get an injected system from a S3 (this year
? or next ? :-), with integrated ignition timing/ECUI system, and the V12 system
needs a serious upgrade. I can’t live with these anachronisms in my dearest
toys. In other areas I love things from the age before the digital revolution :
My tube audio amps are still the best (apart from the lowest bass), and one day
I will have a 2 x 15 Watts tube amp in my Jag. I cant wait for the divine sound
of a Frank Zappa Bass guitar, amplified through 1940 technology tubes,
surrounded by the divine athmosphere of a Jaguar. Better than free holidays and
“titties and beer” as FZ sings on his New York Live album. Also the Track 8
where he sings "Green flies are buzzing… " is having me at the moment…
Yeah life with a Jag is just so much better.
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 09 Jun 96 01:19:16 EDT
Subject: Re: battery relocation
Hi,
I relocated my battery to the boot in a XJ6 Coupe, to make room for triple SU
HD8’s. I bough a maintenance free battery, however it was not sealed for life,
still had plugs for electrolyte. I have had it there for 5 years now, no
problems observed. I used a 88 amphour Varta - super cold start performance
battery. Rated at 500 Amps delivery at -18 deg (if I should ever take the Jag to
the Tundra
I used a 50 square millimeter cable (intended for welding) and pulled the cable
through the wall top the rear seat, then from under the rear seat drilled holes
about 15 mm through the “double” skinned floor and inserted rubber grommets, to
protect the cable. I then pulled ythe cable under the car all the way up to the
12 v posts that a XJ has on the bulkhead wall.
Regards Jeffrey Gram
From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 1996 04:07:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Spicy E-type stories wanted.
Lawrence Buja writes:
LB> …personal E-type stories…
Some time ago, I had a SII E Type OTS that I was doing body work on in a
night class & I drove it to school & back on a regular basis. One night, it
rained & after going through a particularly large mud puddle, the car died &
wouldn’t start again. Turned out to be a wet distributor & all was well
again the next day after I got everything dried out. My boss at the time had
the real explanation for the Jag’s propensity for failure to operate properly
in wet conditions - “EVERYONE knows that cats don’t like water!” Ever since
then, I don’t aim for mud puddles when driving a Jaguar with an XK engine &
its low-mounted distributor.
-Steve A.
From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 1996 04:07:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Why two fuel tanks?
DAVID GRUBER writes:
DG> I couldn’t find much mention of the dual-tank system in the owner’s
DG> manuals. I was wondering if it is better to toggle use from each
DG> tank frequently so that the weight distribution remains relatively
DG> the same, rather than fill each and empty them one at a time.
I use the left tank up first & then the right tank. On a LH drive car, that
evens out weight distribution the most since the driver sits on the left &
usually isn’t always carrying passengers.
As for the reason for dual tanks with redundant fuel pumps. My theory is
that the original designers owned stock in SU & figured out that more fuel
system complexity would make the price of their stock go up. They didn’t
anticipate the later supplier changes.
My other theory is that Jaguar used to have a rule stating that the sum of
carburetors & fuel pumps had to be 4 without special dispensation from Sir
Bill.
-Steve A.
67 E Type (3 carbs + one fuel pump = 4)
76 XJ6C (2 carbs + 2 fuel pumps = 4)
91 XJ40 (the rules don’t apply to Fords)
From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 1996 04:07:17 -0400
Subject: Re: XJS Convertible
Julian Mullaney writes:
JM> …the Hess & Eisenhardt convertible XJS is the
JM> most attractive of the XJSs, and possibly the best looking Jag of
JM> the last 20 years.
Except, of course, for the XJ6/12C.
-Steve A.
1976 XJ6C (JUST makes Julian’s 20 year limit since the model was made until
1977)
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Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #141
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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 10 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 141
Re: Jaguar fuel tanks
Re: Problematic Years for XJ6?
Re: Problematic Years for XJ6?
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #140
RE: Oil Drain Plug Leak
Jag repair in NYC
Re: cooling + pinging&temperature , ignition + tube amps
Re: Teflon /nylon washer on oil plug
Re: XKE Story: how not to buy a Jag
Re: 3 E-Type stories. 1970 E Type 2+2
Re: [General] A/C and heater on/off controversy
Re: cooling + pinging&temperature , ignition + tube amps
A/C Power Loss / Two Fuel Tanks
Re: Jaguar fuel tanks
Re: Battery relocation
Re:Two Fuel Tanks excitment
XJ6 S1 - air conditioner
Important Replaceable Part Correction
1985 XJS Question?
From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 1996 04:07:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Jaguar fuel tanks
Dick Cavicke writes:
DC> To the best of my knowledge, the first jaguar sedan to have the two
DC> tank set-up was the 3.8S
Didn’t the Mk VII-IX have two tanks as well?
-Steve A.
From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 1996 04:07:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Problematic Years for XJ6?
Lawrence Buja writes:
LB> what single piece of advice would YOU offer to the average person
LB> who wants to buy a good Jaguar next week, but has very little
LB> mechanical knowledge?
I’d advise a “novice” to do SIX things if he/she’s mechanically inept but is
serious about buying a GOOD used Jaguar.
-
Read a specialty book about the model ahead of time. These exist for
MOST Jaguar models & they’re available at many libraries. That’ll also give
him/her a fighting chance of spotting “bodges” on older cars. -
Bring along someone who DOES know about the cars who isn’t going to be
wrapped up emotionally in the decision & who has a checklist with him or her. -
Take the car out for a LONG test drive that includes a curvy road & high
speed stretches & try out ALL the controls including the AC & heater. Take
notes. -
Make sure you look the car over closely during daylight hours AFTER the
long test drive - leaks & bodywork - outside, inside, & bottomside. -
Make sure you look at and drive a number of the cars so you can tell the
difference between how good & bad ones behave. -
Sleep on it overnight before plunking down your money.
I didn’t mean to imply that taking the car to a competent mechanic prior to
buying is a BAD idea, just that asking a mechanic to look for problems in a
car with NO symptoms is like looking for needles in a haystack. If I were to
consider a car that had specific stuff wrong with it (been there, done that)
like an AC that doesn’t blow cold air, I’d either make sure I KNEW how much
it’d cost to fix it, I’d require it to be fixed (in writing) as part of the
sale, or I’d take it to the appropriate specialist for his/her expert
opinion. My Jaguar mechanic doesn’t know too much about fixing bodywork
problems nor is he what I’d consider an AC expert. The typical neurosurgeon
doesn’t know all that much about dentistry.
A person with “very little mechanical knowledge” probably doesn’t have a
Jaguar mechanic that they know & trust. I learned to work on cars on a
Triumph GT6 because of dealer incompetence - two different dealers were
CONSTANTLY diagnosing stuff on the car incorrectly. Like the steering rack
that “needed replacing” when the mounting bolts had loosened & the “engine
rebuild” that was “needed” when they hooked up the smog hoses wrong after a
tuneup. When I started doing my own work, the car instantly changed from a
nightmare to a pleasant and fairly reliable vehicle. I’m sure that people
like Michael Neal can tell you lots of stories about butchers in the business
& we see bodge stories on this list daily. On the OTHER HAND, having a
mechanic’s opinion that you need a new steering rack & a rebuild in the above
circumstances might be just the ticket to help beat down that selling price a
bit. Hmmm, maybe if I take that late model XJS in to Midas for a “pre-sale”
check I CAN afford it!..
Regarding Charles Daly’s note of:
CD> I have so little mechanical ability that if I questioned
CD> tons of smoke coming from a car and the PO told me the
CD> car came with a fireplace, I would prob. believe it!
The process above would take care of that problem (Items 2 & 5)
On Item 1, I’d be HAPPY to go out with anyone in the Seattle area to look at
Jaguars & drive them ANYTIME. It’s lots more fun looking & testing them when
you aren’t the buyer! It’s also easier to spot the sales bologna for what it
is. I especially like to go looking at E Types though I’d be willing to give
my best for that D Type hidden away in a barn that was left there by Elvis…
-Steve A.
From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Sun, 09 Jun 1996 09:23:47 +0100
Subject: Re: Problematic Years for XJ6?
Re: Steve A.'s last;
On Item 1, I’d be HAPPY to go out with anyone in the Seattle area to look at Jaguars & drive them ANYTIME. It’s lots more fun looking & testing them when you aren’t the buyer! It’s also easier to spot the sales bologna for what it is. I especially like to go looking at E Types though I’d be willing to give my best for that D Type hidden away in a barn that was left there by Elvis… Steve A. Steve, I agree with everything you said but I think that a friend like you for an inexperience jag owner-wannabie would be as rare and valuable as a gold mine! If I read this list for a month before buying a jag, the first thing I’d do is see a psychiatrist! And with my luck I’d drive up to his office only to find a jag in his driveway and he’d be under it! Charles From: “Robert Johnson, D.Sc.” bjomejag@sover.net Date: Sun, 09 Jun 1996 10:08:50 -0500 Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #140 Re: [General] A/C and heater on/off controversy Re: Why two fuel tanks? ******************************** Re: A/C controversy The power required to drive an A/C compressor is several HP and this can be easily felt as a loss of acceleration. Most Jaguars with ECUs have a fuel enrichment input from the A/C to the ECU that causes an increase in the pulse width supplied the fuel injector that is intended to offset the power loss. Some sensation of decrease power may be normal, but an engine in poor tune or a missing input to the ECU should be suspected if the sensation is noticable on a level road. Hope this helps, Bob Re: Two fuel tanks? Two fuel tanks have been on Jaguars since the MKIV I believe. I Know tha MKVII had the dual system. To me it seems good engineering due to potential for weight balance. It is also reasonable design as the wheel arches are wasted space and there is not much of this on a Jaguar. I also find the security of a second tank to be a significant feature. Finally there is the esthetic statement of the external filler door expressed optimally on the XJ cars. Bob From: bill wmrunner@westol.com Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 21:28:20 -0400 Subject: RE: Oil Drain Plug Leak Now, how hard is it to keep the oil drain plug from leaking? What = is my problem? <<>> PA> The copper work hardens after a while. I’ve had some success PA> anealing it by heating it red hot with a propane torch, then PA> letting it cool. Then file and sand it flat. =20 Steve said: =20 Taking a look in my handy dandy Mark’s Handbook, Copper anneals at = above 400F. While I don’t have the time to anneal at hand, seems to me that = you can resoften those copper washers by tossing in them in the oven & = letting them cook next to your wife’s (or husband’s) casserole. Retrieve when = the oven’s cool.=20 You’ll need at least 500 degrees F. 700 degrees F is probably a better = aim temperature. An hour at temperature should cut the tensile strength = in half. Higher temperatures can cut the annealing time significantly = but then you have to worry about hydrogen embrittlement and whether or = not you have a free machining copper. Aren’t copper washers around 50 = cents US? =20 Bill Ruof From: JQJF14A@prodigy.com (MR JOHN W SHUCK) Date: Sun, 9 Jun 1996 11:00:29, -0500 Subject: Jag repair in NYC Tommi…Send me a private e-mail, your servers returned mine…can help you with a service recommendation… From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell) Date: Sun, 09 Jun 1996 09:20:18 -0500 Subject: Re: cooling + pinging&temperature , ignition + tube amps You write that (30/5-96) that you have a racing car running on: “115 octane gasoline in it because it will prevent pre-ignition and allows the car to therefore run cooler and with less stress”. I dont know of pinging causing increased tempertature ? are you sure ?, where did you get that from ? Pinging does not cause higher temperatures, retarding the ignition to prevent pinging does cause higher temperatures. Since my engine has 10:1 compression ratio if I used lower octane fuel it would be necessary to use a retarded ignition to prevent pinging. The retarded ignition causes higher engine temperatures since the exploding gases start later in the cycle and an engines cooling system is designed to remove heat most eficiently from the top of the cylinder and not from the sides of the cylinder. Therefore by using higher octane gasoline I can run a more advanced timing to restrict the maximum burning to the top of the cylinder and therefore reduce engine temperatures. The higher octane thus allows me to run a higher compression ratio with its required more advanced spark which allows me get more power from the engine. If you have ever driven a car with a badly retarded ignition system you will have noticed that the engine will run much warmer. Admitedly in this case where the retardation would not be severe the difference might be smaller, but in a race engine a small difference can be very significant since it is running at 8000 rpm (pedal on the floor) for most of the race. Jim “Better an outlaw than not free.” Nance O’Neil From: Juliansean@aol.com Date: Sun, 9 Jun 1996 11:39:46 -0400 Subject: Re: Teflon /nylon washer on oil plug In a message dated 96-06-07 19:10:03 EDT, pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov (Lauren E. Pratt) writes: I don’t see how a nylon washer under the head of a plug could cause the same problem as teflon tape screwed in with the thread, as long as the washer was changed before it got brittle and cracked. Any one see a problem here? I think with temperature fluctuations that the nylon would relax (as do all thermoplastics with heat aging) thus causing the plug to become loose. It could leak just because the plastic relaxed, or worse, the loose plug could unscrew with vibration. Julian Mullaney From: SteveAv@aol.com Date: Sun, 9 Jun 1996 12:17:23 -0400 Subject: Re: XKE Story: how not to buy a Jag Michael Frank writes: MF> I arrived at the Jag shop on an overcast morning. The place seemed MF> very competent, with XJS’s everywhere you looked, and a couple of MF> XKE’s. Maybe they belonged to the owner’s brother? MF> …the mechanic had the keys. Without any further ado, I MF> jumped in and drove off… If this was the guy that “set up” the carbs, you’d think that he’d at least MENTION some of the problems below? Like the full discharge alternator & fuel leaks… MF> About ten blocks from the garage, the engine started to MF> sputter. the battery was on full discharge. MF> Hopped back in, went back to the Jag mechanic. Alternator MF> wasn’t charging. New alternator installed. Still not charging. MF> Uh-oh says Mr. Jagwrench, *&%$#$% PO has totally miswired these MF> relays. A few minutes of fiddling and we are back in business. Do I MF> want to keep the new alternator? Sure. $350. Mr. Jagwrench to himself: “Hey, why check to see if it’s REALLY the alternator before changing it out? If it’s the wiring/voltage regulator I have to unplug all those little wires!” My recollection about my own SII is that the regulator sat right above the battery & failed regularly while my alternator only had to be replaced once when it blew up. Hey, you were lucky here. You could have had a regulator that failed by putting out too much current, periodically and mysteriously frying fuel pumps at inconveniently long distances from anywhere you want to go. I had two mechanics scratching their heads for over a month about that one. MF> All the way home smelling raw gas and foul exhaust. MF> Moral of the story: never, never again will I buy sight unseen. MF> Never, never again without professional advice. Hopefully, NOT Mr. Jagwreches advice! Steve A. From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu Date: Sun, 9 Jun 1996 12:30:49 -0400 Subject: Re: 3 E-Type stories. 1970 E Type 2+2 James A. Isbell: This one realy scared me. I was driving a twisty back country road late at night at about 80mph when I reached down to turn off the interior light. Hit the wrong switch and extinguished both the headlights and dash lights. All those damned switches (they wouldnt pass DOT now days) feel the same in the dark and I couldn’t find the one for the headlights! I just started slowing down as fast as I could and relied on my memory of what I had seen before the lights went out to guide the car. Luckily I got it stoped on the side of the road and then found the correct switch. DOT approval wouldn’t help. I suppose they just love those modern stalk switches that are so popular these days, but they suck just as badly and are harder to fix. My Honda has a turn signal stalk that also operates the high beams with a pull, and has the headlight on/off switch on the end. While driving on a back road once, I reached a couple fingers forward to pull the stalk back to switch to high beam. Got the stalk just a hair off center, so my fingers rolled off the stalk – and turned the headlights off! This is a BIG rush. Of course, it wasn’t too hard to find in the dark, and I was able to turn them back on without stopping. Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | – Palm’s Postulate From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu Date: Sun, 9 Jun 1996 12:30:47 -0400 Subject: Re: [General] A/C and heater on/off controversy Gunnar Helliesen wrote:
I have an '86 SIII XJ6 4.2 and I can actually feel it when the A/C
compressor sets in. I mean, I can feel the car slowing a little bit
as the engine seems to loose power. That compressor must cost a lot
to run! If the car is idling the compressor starting up almost
causes the engine to stall. Is this normal?Peter Morris:
I, too, have an '86 XJ6 SIII, and have noticed (can’t NOT notice) a
power drop or surge as the A/C compressor kick in and out.
Before you guys get all excited about disconnecting the compressor and
gaining big MPG, let me point out that tests on several cars have reportedly
shown they get better fuel economy with the A/C on and the windows shut than
with the A/C off and the windows open. Take with whatever grain of salt you
choose.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 1996 13:16:16 -0400
Subject: Re: cooling + pinging&temperature , ignition + tube amps
James A. Isbell wrote:
I dont know of pinging causing increased tempertature ? are you sure ?, where
did you get that from ?Pinging does not cause higher temperatures, retarding the ignition to
prevent pinging does cause higher temperatures.
Retarding ignition will cause more heat to be rejected into the coolant.
However, I believe pinging will ALSO cause more heat to be rejected into the
coolant. In fact, ANYTHING that lowers the efficiency of an engine will
cause more heat to be rejected into the coolant. In the case of pinging,
this is the least of your worries.
Does this cause higher temperatures? Only when the capacity of the cooling
system is exceeded. As long as the cooling capacity is not exceeded, none
of these problems will cause higher temps.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 1996 13:16:14 -0400
Subject: A/C Power Loss / Two Fuel Tanks
Robert Johnson, D.Sc.:
Most Jaguars with ECUs
have a fuel enrichment input from the A/C to the ECU that causes an
increase in the pulse width supplied the fuel injector that is
intended to offset the power loss. Some sensation of decrease power
may be normal, but an engine in poor tune or a missing input to the
ECU should be suspected if the sensation is noticable on a level road.
Really? Somebody please confirm/deny this, as it sounds like a stupid idea
to me. I’m aware of several methods to open throttle when the A/C kicks in,
but changing the F/A ratio sounds like a mistake to me; either it was wrong
before or it’s wrong after, and either way the EPA isn’t going to like the
procedure.
To me it seems good engineering due to
potential for weight balance.
Let’s get real. These cars weigh two tons each. I’d defy any and all of
you to discern the difference in 75 pounds of fuel on the right side or the
left.
It is also reasonable design as the
wheel arches are wasted space and there is not much of this on a
Jaguar.
True – but this doesn’t require the dual pumps or changeover valves. All
this requires is connecting the two tanks into one via a large pipe.
I also find the security of a second tank to be a significant
feature.
IOW, when one fuel pump quits you can use the other? Unfortunately, only
good on earlier cars, later had one pump and multiple valves. In this case,
you’re only adding complexity and the opportunity for failure.
Finally there is the esthetic statement of the external
filler door expressed optimally on the XJ cars.
Again, doesn’t require two separate tanks – or even two tanks at all.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 1996 13:16:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Jaguar fuel tanks
Randy Wilson:
If the tanks
were full when parked, the left tank would merrily piddle, via the balance
pipe, a few gallons of petrol out the right filler cap.In the case of the mini, the caps were vented. All the XJ’s (at least US spec)
had non-vented caps. But the same problem would apply. Rather than the fuel
running from the high tank out the low filler, it would run from the high
tank through the low tanks vent system, and out the charcoal canister.
Gee, I don’t think so. It’s relatively easy to route the vent lines from
both tanks to a relatively high and centrally located vent vapor separator,
which will prevent such problems. The only remaining problem would involve
somebody opening a fuel filler cap on the downhill side.
I had a '67 Sunbeam Alpine. Two upright tanks in rear wings, one LARGE
(1-1/2" or so) pipe connecting the two, only one filler cap, absolutely no
problems. Why Jaguar insists on making drivers fiddle with the tank
changeover switch and having to fill both tanks separately is a mystery.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kroppe kroppe@mich.com
Date: Sun, 09 Jun 1996 13:24:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Battery relocation
Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com wrote:
I relocated my battery to the boot in a XJ6 Coupe, to make room for triple
SU HD8’s.
Cool.
I used a 50 square millimeter cable (intended for welding) and pulled the
cable through the wall top the rear seat, then from under the rear seat
drilled holes about 15 mm through the “double” skinned floor and inserted
rubber grommets, to protect the cable. I then pulled ythe cable under the
car all the way up to the 12 v posts that a XJ has on the bulkhead wall.
You don’t mention anything about a vent tube. Car batteries generate
hydrogen gas during their operation. As we all know, H2 gas is pretty
explosive. It may be possible to collect such gas in the boot or cabin
and have a nasty incident. We are taking great pains on my project (can’t
tell what it is) to manage battery ventilation.
If you’ve already handled it, great. If not, you should probably install
a DIN cover over your battery and route a rubber tube down through the floor
and out to atmosphere. (DIN battery covers are found on BMWs and Mercs).
B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 1996 14:22:33 -0400
Subject: Re:Two Fuel Tanks excitment
I have a Morris Mini Cooper w/two fuel tanks and a simple cross-over, can fill
from either side. I had to repair the r/h tank once, but still drove the car on
the other tank(plugged crossover installed dummy neck and replaced r/h quick
fill cap for aesthetic reasons). Once I forgot and filled the car from the
right…
Mark
Amazing how much gas will fit into a Mini trunk.
From: per@quantum.ece.ucsb.edu (Per Stenius)
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 96 14:30:57 PDT
Subject: XJ6 S1 - air conditioner
OK, I have now gotten to the AC in my project. When I had the car at the shop
for balljoints (I replaced upper and lower balljoints with the XJ40 versions,
with total labor of 4 hrs, and parts cost $240) the AC was checked and it holds
vacuum, but there seems to be a blockade somewhere in the system. Possibly
receiver/dryer or expansion chamber? The system currently holds no freon, so
I could go on and open it up. Someone told me, however, that if I do that, I
will have to replace the receiver/dryer since it is destroyed if in contact
with atmosphere? Is this true? I guess i should hope that it is indeed here
that my system is blocked…
Has anybody done something like this to their XJ6 S1? Mine has the York system
AC, and all parts look ok. Where should I start, and are there any things to
be aware of? I have never worked on an AC before, but I do have the Factory
repair manual + parts catalog with complete assembly pictures… What are the
typical problem areas? Someone also claimed that getting to the expansion
chamber is very difficult (incidentally, is this the same thing the manual
calls “evaporater unit”?
All comments, hints &advice greatly appreciated! Thanks,
Per Stenius (http://www.engineering.ucsb.edu/~pstenius/)
Email: per@quantum.ece.ucsb.edu
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sun, 09 Jun 1996 16:25:45 -0500
Subject: Important Replaceable Part Correction
A couple of weeks ago I posted that a 1978-79 MG Oil pressure sender was a
replacement for the Jaguar sender in the XJ6 Series 3. That is not correct.
I tried it this week end and the thread does not even match. I took the
part back to the store that sold it to me and they checked two different
books which both affirm that it will work. But, I can assure you that it
wont. Maybe with an adapter to reduce the size of the female thread in the
Jag to match the smaller thread of the MG sender it might work, but I dont
have the time or the inclination to find out. The jag sender costs $60+ and
the MG Sender costs $5+ so maybe someone would like to see if it works, but
with the temperature at 90+ today and no tree over my driveway I decided to
let jag have the money.
Jim
“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil
From: blender@ix.netcom.com (David A. Blender )
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 1996 17:07:15 -0700
Subject: 1985 XJS Question?
I am new to this forum. I have been observing however, for
approximately two-weeks. I have restored my 1985 XJS H.E. and it has
been one of the most problematic restorations I have ever undertaken
(my first jag restoration).
Here is what happened to me today. I was out enjoying the unusually
cooler weather here in Dallas, Texas this afternoon, cruising down the
highway at about 75 MPH… It was great… Then all of a sudden I
hear an extremely loud explosive sounding noise. A deafening clatter
quickly followed and as the accelerator was depressed, so then did the
clatter sound increase with frequency. I pulled over and took a look
at the engine while it was running…I found the problem. One, and
only one of the spark plugs (Champion type) had exploded out of the
block. It was still attached to the spark plug wire but it had shot
out of the block…no threads on the bottom only the long
core…porcelain and nib are still intact…but I suspect the bottom
contact with the threads are still in the block. (Mad doesn’t describe
the way I feel right now!) I mean this car has been totally rebuilt.
totally rebuilt original V-12 engine, A/C system, rebuilt transmission
(GM 400), New Torque Convertor, new interior, new paint, new brakes,
radiator recored, new belts, hoses, distributor, water pump,
thermostats, heater core, expansion valve, cruise control, cooling fan,
and the list goes on and on…
So, my questions are as follows… How do I retrieve the remains of
the sparkplug? Have I destroyed the engine by driving it home?
(traveled only about 4-5 miles) AND… What the heck would cause a
sparkplug to literally go orbital?
Anyone who has experienced this previously or has some good
hypotheses…please respond…
Many thanks in advance…
David A. Blender
blender@ix.netcom.com
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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 10 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 142
XJ40 – AC drain tubes
XKE Humor
Re: Important Replaceable Part Correction
Re: Problematic Years for XJ6?
Oil pressure, to go or not to go, that os the question
Re: XK120 steering expander spring
Re: 1985 XJS Question / tire wear
Re: 89/XJ-40
S2 Ingnition Light Perm On
Re: 1985 XJS Question?
Re: disinterest party advises Jim I. on oil sender
Rusted wire wheels
XJ-40 A/C Drain Tubes
Adhesives question
XKE '62 OTS - pre-purchase inspection - why I didn’t buy
E-stories and running engines with no oil
Re: Jaguar fuel tanks
Brake Pads
Re: interior kits xke
From: “Roger Los (MacTemps)” a-rogerl@microsoft.com
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 1996 17:55:20 -0700
Subject: XJ40 – AC drain tubes
I know this has been covered numerous times, but can I get to the drain
hoses for the AC without taking the dash out (i.e., from the outside of
the car)? I’m getting plenty of clean water inside the passenger
footwell any time the air conditioner is on, and I’m assuming the
well-engineered drain hose(s) are clogged. And boy am I happy that
Jaguar used fish-based glues in the carpets. Mmmm-mmm.
Thanks in advance,
Soaking in Seattle
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 1996 21:00:33 -0400
Subject: XKE Humor
A friend of mine was looking at the Jag this afternoon. “With all those
switches on the dashboard, how can you tell them apart at night?” he asked.
"No problem", I replied, "those are Lucas switches. No matter which
one you hit, nothing happens."
Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Sun, 9 Jun 1996 22:30:11 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Important Replaceable Part Correction
A couple of weeks ago I posted that a 1978-79 MG Oil pressure sender was a
replacement for the Jaguar sender in the XJ6 Series 3. That is not correct.
This is correct, since the 72-80 MG’s do not have an oil pressure sending
unit at all. The B’s and most of the Midget’s used a mechanical gauge. the
later Midgets had a light, but that switch is incorporated with the anti-
diesel switch in a three pole package. The early Midgets and the B’s used
a single pole pressure switch to control the anti-diesel valve, but it’s
a normally open type. Idiot light switches are normally closed.
So now matter how you look at it, those part store books are wrong. This is
quite common.
have the time or the inclination to find out. The jag sender costs $60+ and
the MG Sender costs $5+ so maybe someone would like to see if it works, but
with the temperature at 90+ today and no tree over my driveway I decided to
let jag have the money.
One point you may be missing here, Jim. The S3 has both. It has a $60
sender for the gauge, and a $6 switch for the light.
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sun, 09 Jun 1996 22:00:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Problematic Years for XJ6?
I wish to disagree with the idea of taking along a disinterested party.
There aint no sech thing. If you take along a friend you will never buy a car.
I have bought and sold collectors cars for years and here is what that
disinterested party has to deal with.
-
If he reccommends the car and it turns out to be a lemon, who gets
blamed? He does of course. -
If he reccommends against it and it is not bought, who knows? No one
will ever know if he was right or not. (This then is a safe bet) -
If he reccommends against it and it is bought and turns out bad, who
looks good? He does, he warned his friend. (another safe bet) -
If he reccommends against it and it is bought and turns out good, “He
was just trying to be safe”. No one will be unhappy so no blame is placed.
(another safe bet)
In other words, it will almost always turn out to be a reccomendation
against just to save his own butt. I have never sold a car to a “two person
party”!!! When I see one comming I run the other way.
Jim
“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sun, 09 Jun 1996 22:06:57 -0500
Subject: Oil pressure, to go or not to go, that os the question
I think the oil pressure sender on my XJ6 is faulty, but before I drive 40
miles to get the part and repair it I want some comforting words.
The oil pressure looks normal at idle, 70PSI. as the RPM increases the oil
pressure goes up to 75PSI. When the engine reached 2000 rpm the oil
pressure drops to ZERO.
I can see where the sendr would cause this if it is as I suspect a burdon
tube driving a wirewound potentiometer. If the wire was broken near the end
then any pressure over 75PSI could read as zero.
I cannot see any engine problem that would result in such a symptom.
So I am feeling confident that it is alright to drive it to the Jag garage
to buy a sender.
BUT, I would like to hear someone say they agree with me before I do it.
Any comments pro or con are welcome!!
Jim
“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil
From: Dikavik@aol.com
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 00:14:28 -0400
Subject: Re: XK120 steering expander spring
Jamie:
I’m a supporter of the “wide end of the spring toward the steering wheel” and
“all cups chromed” school. Page 16 & 17 of the Operating Handbook is my
reference even though the pictures are not too distinct.
The XK120 steering gear seems prone to leaking no matter what you do. I got
partial relief from the problem by using the proper 140 viscosity lubricant.
Now it leaks more slowly.
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 08:01:32 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: 1985 XJS Question / tire wear
David,
I had once a problem when I had re-installed a new set of plugs and I
accidently hit one plug with a spanner. The porcelaine was still in place,
but had a long scratch (don’t know if this is the right word), like drawn by
a small pencil. When remvoving the plug, the porcelaine cracked completely,
but the plug was intact down from thread. I carefully vacuumed all bits
out and replaced the plug. If the thread is still on, can’t you just remove
the remaining parts ?
Many years ago we had Citroen 2CV (that’s a really small french “car”)
2 cylinders. My wife once picked it up at the dealer, and after 20 km a
plug was simply blown out. It seems that they simply had not fixed the
plugs (the other alos was loose), but this was the complete plug.
Now I a question, maybe someone could help me :
I have tire wear on ONE front wheel, the inner side of the tire is almost
gone. When I had replaced brake disks, I had put original shims back in.
My steering wheel is not “straight” when driving the straight, but the
car drives straight and also holds nicely the road when breaking. I thought
I would simply need to adjust the steering wheel, but could the tire wear
be related ?
Thanks
-
- Matthias
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 08:37:07 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: 89/XJ-40
Tommi,
Japan, but I doubted it very much in the States. They didn’t let me drive
out without NYS insepction so I got new four brake pads. It costed me
USD500.00-. The money is an issue, but more or less I need a trustful
garage by all means.
I don’t know much about XJ40, but 4 brake pads and $ 500 sounds like a lot
to me. Check the JEC magazine or Jaguar World and I think a set of pads is
around 20 or 30 pounds.
-
- Matthias
From: “C. Mortimer” cm2@eng.cam.ac.uk
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 8:54:48 BST
Subject: S2 Ingnition Light Perm On
I tried to start the car this weekend ready to take it to a show on Sunday
when we found that the battery was completely dead. This caused a frowned
look straight away as the battery has been up all winter when the car had
not moved for weeks. It was also noticed that the ignition light in the
centre light clusters was on, just. This was without any key on the
ignition but after charging the battery for a while and then turning the car
over again, the light then goes out once running, turn the engine off, light
come on again.
As well as this the car stalls every time you try to put it into reverse.
As the revs dye down as you change into reverse the car stalls itself and
will not start again unless you jump start it. Is all of the above something
to do with the alternator, not charging the battery?
Any ideas would be a great help.
Chris Mortimer
S2 Daimler
(http://club.eng.cam.ac.uk/~cm2/daimler.html)
From: Paul Peard Paul.Peard@BankersTrust.com
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 12:04:45 +0100
Subject: Re: 1985 XJS Question?
Ouch,
I may be missing something from you description, but if its just the plug
core thats flown out then the threaded portion thats still in the block
should have the part you normally put a socket on still attached, it should
be possible to unscrew it clean.
If all the bits of the plug are locatable (the plug core and the
bottom electrode) then my guess is you haven’t broken anything.
So far as cause, could be as simple as a crap plug, I have had brand new
plugs leak at the base, never had one “blow”. I don’t know of anything else
that would cause it but I guess its not beyond possibility that seriously out
timing (ignition or valve) may have that affect.
When you retrieve the pieces it should give some clue as to the cause.
Good luck
Paul
From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 08:17:01 +0100
Subject: Re: disinterest party advises Jim I. on oil sender
Jim,
Since I have no idea what an oil pressure sender
on a XJ6 looks like, let alone what function it provides,
I believe I am the ideal ‘disinterested’ party to advise;
First, we should drive 20 miles towards the dealer that way
we are half-way there, (or half way back home) before we
begin to debate the issue, thus the problem is half solved
before we even begin the discussion.
Secondly, we should definately not charter an airplane.
So already I have saved you hundreds of dollars.
Now, if the sender is u/s and I say it’s fine and your
engine seizes, I’m dead meat, so I can’t say that!
If I say it’s bad and it’s ok, then I’ve wasted your time
and money, so I can’t do that, either. Hmmmmmm.
I got it, let’s tow the car to New York city and ask
a cab driver -they know everything!
But then you’d probably run into a disinterested cabby
and he’d have a problem…if he said it looked fine…
Oh, never mind.
Charles Daly
(You did say; "Any comments pro or con are welcome!!)
And I do hope it works out for you.
From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 08:36:05 +0100
Subject: Rusted wire wheels
My plan for the wires on my E was to replace the
two stove enamel silver wheels with SS, which are
already on order, and to clean up the two original
chrome wires. One of the two cleaned up really
well but the second has a lot of rust and cleaner
and brass brush does little good -unlike the first
wheel. I was about to give up and order a third
SS, keeping only the one original which turned out
well.
Question; Is there any problem having three SS and
one chrome? Of course I could just order two more
SS but since I couldn’t bring myself the toss the two
orig. chrome wheels I don’t have room to store them
(and I can only use so many lamp tables!)
My museum of orig. bits is growing too large to continue.
Any magical way (besides baking soda in a pie plate)
to remove/reduce the rust?
Any disinterested parties with an idea?
Charles Daly
'62 E, ots
From: PLacey@swri.edu
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 96 7:55:10 CDT
Subject: XJ-40 A/C Drain Tubes
I have had water run down on the drivers side (LHD) footwell several times
too. The drain tube is right beside the transmission tunnel on the right
hand side of the car when viewed from the front. It is a black tube located
a few inches back fron the accellerator pedal. Simply pull it off and push a
piece of wire up in the tube to clear it out. 2 minutes work at most!
Paul Lacey
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 06:53:40 -0700
Subject: Adhesives question
Hi group…
Several months ago I recall an excellent discussion on the best
adhesives ( rubber to metal) available here in the US… I had followed
that advice with great results… We are now in the rather embarrassing
position of having to ask the question again as for some strange reason
I find the only thing we have in stock is the 3M 8001 and 8008 both of
which are useless…
Was it 8011 (?) or was there another manufacturer’s product which was
deemed to be best for this application…?
Many thanks for your help…
tony
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Sun, 09 Jun 96 23:42:00 PDT
Subject: XKE '62 OTS - pre-purchase inspection - why I didn’t buy
Hello all,
Several of you replied to my request for things to look out for when buying an
E. I met the owner of an advertised 62 3.8 OTS at my mechanic’s shop - here’s
the story of why I didn’t buy:
I took my 10-year old with me for this. We got there just before the ‘62 and
it’s owner showed up. From 10 feet away, it looks great. Very nice shade of
red, and quite shiny. I could deal with this. The owner took it right into the
garage and we (me, him, my son, his son) stood around and admired the car. My
mechanic and his assistant put the car up and we went away for a cold
drink (90’F at 11AM). My son and I returned after 45 minutes and joined the
mechanics under the car (son watched from 5’ away from the car). While we
watched I started hitting the spokes with a screwdriver. First one I touched
was the loosest one. I didn’t bother hitting the other three wheels, I could
guess.
Here’s the list, more or less in sequence of discovery:
First to be checked is the compression. Motor has good compression - even and
not so high that it would appear that the head had been shaved a bunch of times.
Now put the car on the lift. Tires are new. Brakes are new, correctly
installed, and dry. Many suspension parts are nice and new. The
clutch slave cylinder is very wet. The transmission (original Moss) is totally
wet and smells of 90 weight, esp. when it hits the hot exhaust. Rear wheel
bearings have enough play to notice. Rear suspension V-blocks are separating
(rubber and metal have parted company). Trailing arm bushings are OK - just OK.
Front upper control arms are worn (maybe just the ball joints, maybe the arms
themselves). Front subframe bears imprints of jackstands. Exhaust system is
new and properly installed. Lots of red overspray on differential (which was
dry, and correct for the car) and other places like the radiator. The engine
compartment: the subframe being black instead of body color was hardly
noticeable… it was so dirty and knarly in there. None of the alloy pieces
like carbs and cam covers had been polished, the engine hadn’t been painted
during the rebuild - it looked like the oily ‘varnish’ that accumulates on
engines hadn’t been cleaned off. There was a strange weld on the firewall - a
rectangular-ish hole had been made and welded back sometime during it’s hard
life. Not a single nut or bolt looked sharp and crisp (save the cam cover and
head nuts - they were new) like they should.
They then brought the car down, and I asked what was the deal with the doors.
They explained that the body had sagged, and thus the door opening was too small
for the doors. The new paint on both doors and their associated body panels had
chipped - badly - from the interference. Fixing it entails taking it to a frame
shop and straightening the body, then doing proper body work and a respray
(since the fiberglass filler along the driver’s sill would just fracture, not
bend like the metal).
Let’s see… mirrors missing, lots of trim pieces missing, all the chrome (that
was there) had been replated, but badly. Some of the chrome was tacked down at
one end but not the other (lower windshield trim, for example). Oh, the bonnet
is great, and fits beautifully, except the headlamp cover chrome, which was too
big for the openings and had rubber trim showing at odd intervals around the
circumference. The headlamp scoops had been sprayed silver from a spray can
(Krylon, perhaps). The front plate holder and articulated hardware were gone.
Somewhere in the course of the mechanical checkout listed in the first
paragraph, I’d decided against the car at $28K. As soon as I understood the
body was sagged, it wasn’t going to be my car at any price.
But I’d paid for the checkout, and I wanted to drive it. I had never even sat
in one anyway. The owner perhaps thought that driving it would put a smile back
on my face and conjure my checkbook from my pocket, so after his caution against
grasping the wood on the steering wheel too tightly (‘it isn’t very good but
they don’t cost too much for new’) off I went with my son. Motor is great -
smooth power, nice sound. We went around a circuit of twisty roads in the low
Sierras, turning more heads than my XJ6 ever will, missed a turn coming back
(gee, too bad, better go a few more miles). When we got back and shut it off,
it dumped bunches of coolant from the overflow. Just poured out.
When I left, my mechanic was writing the repair ticket up so the guy would
have a chance of getting back home as the temp and altitude increased (gotta
cross Donner pass at 7K’).
How else can you have so much fun and get an education in E types, for $57? I’m
going to do something nice for my mechanic - he spent more than an hour on the
car, on a Saturday. At least he got a repair ticket out of the deal.
I think: The owner had bought the car in pieces, and put it back together
without taking the time and expense to make every part right, as it went back
together. I guess the car would be most self-consistent with it’s own character
if the paint job were as dodgey as the rest of the car. That paint job is going
to cost someone a lot of money.
Is it too much to expect - a clean, crisp, roadster for that price? What do you
think? Maybe I’ll just work on the XJ6 for a while.
Gratefully,
David
84 XJ6 VDP- looks better and better to me suddenly
From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 09:06:44 MDT
Subject: E-stories and running engines with no oil
Chris wrote:
The next day, in the light, I retraced my journey. The oil trail
ran clearly all the way to the bottom of the hill, then
completely stopped. I can therefore only assume the car did at least
half a mile on mostly full power with no oil pressure. Amazing. And
no after effects - plenty of oil pressure afterwards and no bearing
problems.What oil? Castrol GTX.
When I was much younger, my brother in law owned a wrecking yard. He
had got in a Buick which had a rod through the side of the block -
but it still ran. It had lost all of its oil so my friends and I
decided to “pressure test” the system. We started it up and put a
brick on the accelerator pedal. It ran for ten minutes at something
like 4000 RPM before it finally siezed - I think from overheating.
Hardly the same as the jag story - which is painful. But, it
demonstrates that motors are capable of taking serious abuse except
when you haven’t done something stupid. It will surely break in
other instances.
Speaking of e-type stories, I had a very frightening experience about
15 years ago. I had a 63 E-type roadster that was in beautiful
condition. It was summer time here in Utah and I was returning home
late one night (2-3 AM) and driving through my little town of 600
people. I decided to open up the car in second gear on the main road
through town before retiring for the night (I was much less concerned
about police and bodily injury back then). I opened up the throttle
and pushed real hard on the pedal. To my amazement, the throttle
stuck wide open. I was rather shocked and had no real contingency
plan for this type of occurance. As I approached what I considered
300 MPH (an optical illusion surely), I panicked and pushed in the
clutch. The engine revved up to about 7000 RPM before I got enough
of a thought to turn the key off. I was totally amazed to find out
that no damage to the engine was apparent. The cause: the throttle
linkage had gone over-center and stuck wide open. I had a similar
situation happen in a much more powerful car with an automatic and
the earlier experience taught me what not to do. Here, I calmly
pushed HARD on the brake and turned the key off. Not even a drop of
sweat this time.
JIm Cantrell
76 XJ12C
76 XJ6C
66 ALpine 2.8L
From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 09:24:28 MDT
Subject: Re: Jaguar fuel tanks
Kirby wrote:
Why Jaguar insists on making drivers fiddle with the tank
changeover switch and having to fill both tanks separately is a mystery.
'Cause its neat and it adds to the car’s slightly impractical
character (and reliability problems). But, hey that’s part of the
Jaguar package.
Kind regards,
Jim Cantrell
76 XJ12C
76 XJ6C
66 Alpine 2.8L
From: LLoyd 3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@pucc.PRINCETON.EDU
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 96 09:20:13 PDT
Subject: Brake Pads
Brake pads cost around $25. per axle in the US. If they charge a whole hour
to install them (should take only 20 minutes unless there is a problem),
what is that, another $50. for labor?
LLoyd’s method is to replace the pads when they are getting thin, otherwise
your $25 brake job quickly becomes $300 if the rotors are damaged. BUT,
OTOH, it seems that at around 100,000 miles rotors need turning anyway. I
recently (2 years) put new front pads on one of my cars with about 130,000
miles on it. rotors were OK, so just put new front pads. Total cost, twenty
five bucks, US. And an hour of my time under the shade of an old oak tree,
with beer in hand.
LLoyd - that is, twenty five dollars PLUS two cans of beer…-
From: Geoffrey Goldberg geoffrey@interaccess.com
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 11:30:00 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: interior kits xke
Bartletts Phone Number is 800-338-8034 in Indiana. Kits are also sold by
XK’s Unlimited, Terry’s and others. People tend to think Bartletts is
very good, but there has been a dissenting voice on the 'net. Note that
Bill Terry recommended that I use Bartlett over others - he said they cut
the materials here, where as most other kits are British Imports.
Geoff
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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 10 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 143
Re: Advice on cars as a bussiness.
Adhesives question
buying a Jag
adhesive, rubber to metal
XJ6 Timing?
Re: Brake Pads
Re: XJ6 Timing?
Re: Jaguar fuel tanks
One that got away.
MK1 and some general stuff
E-Type Stories
Re: Brake Pads
XJ6 Timing
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 12:00:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Advice on cars as a bussiness.
wasn’t asking for info on the XJS, just info on how you came to trade in
buying and selling older/sporty cars. And some of your experiences.
Sorry, my fault.
Realy there isnt much to tell. I have just done it as a hobby for most of
the past 40 years except for 1971 when I tried to make it into a bussiness.
For a year I ran a company called “Harvey and James” which imported old
Bentleys and Rolls Royces from England then resold them (un restored) in
the US. It was profitable, but I learned several things.
-
You saw my comments on disinterested partys.
-
The guy that is looking for an unrestored car works too hard for his
money and it is too hard to pry his fingers off of it while the guy who has
lots of money that came easy doesn’t want an unrestored car, he wants a
finished turn key job. -
A business takes the fun out of a hobby. It realy hurt my feelings when
some clod walked up to one of my beautiful Bentlys, kicked the wheel, and
said"What do ya want for this old junker?" I almost came to fisticuffs with
more than one asshole who thought I should “give” him the car.
At the end of the year the final blow came when the city wanted to collect
an inventory tax on the five cars I had in stock so I sold them to myself to
zero out the inventory and closed the business.
I have always had as many as 16 cars and as few as 6 which change in kind on
a regular basis. My current “inventory” is:
1936 SS100 Jaguar (Replica)
1970 E-Type 2+2 Jaguar
1974 Briclkin SV1 Gull wing coupe
1979 Lola/Ford Formula Atlantic racer
1982 XJ6 Series 3
1985 Cadilac Seville
At present I can only own 6 cars because of deed restrictions in the
subdivision where I live. It is a golf course community of retired bussy
bodies that want to tell their neighbors how to live and when to mow their
lawns. I have just presented a contract on a place out in the country with
13 acres and three garages, a two car attached, a two call carport, and a 4
car commercial garage. My wife says I didnt even look at the house, and she
is probably right. But a house is just to sleep in a garage is to live in.
Jim
===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"
John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 06:53:40 -0700
Subject: Adhesives question
Tony (the PRO!, asks us neophytes for some advice!)
<Several months ago I recall an excellent discussion on the best
<adhesives ( rubber to metal) available here in the US… I had followed
<…
<I find the only thing we have in stock is the 3M 8001 and 8008 both of
<which are useless…
<Was it 8011 (?) or was there another manufacturer’s product which was
I am currently using the 3-M product. They are working excellently for me.
The trick is to spray it on, wait NO LONGER than 5 minutes (maybe it’s the
hot cliamte?) and press the two pieces together. For applications where
there is an excessive amount of heat (firewall or dashboard) there is a
high temperature product, I’m not sure if it is 3-M. 8011?
Tony, what are the symptomes you are having? Why isn’t it working?
The glue won’t hold until it sets up for a couple minutes, then it holds.
LLoyd - I’m a big shot now, I’m giving Tony advice… -
From: Gregory Andrachuk MGB@UVVM.UVic.CA
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 96 10:16:16 PDT
Subject: buying a Jag
I attended an classic car auction yesterday in which a 62 Mark II was offered.
I had inspected the car fairly closely before the auction, so when the
auctioneers very slick and professional described the car, I thought
they were referring to a different on. The story is that the present owner
had bought it from a estate; the car had sat for 6 years, and thus needed
a body and interior refurbishment, and some engine work new pistons, etc
The company that did this refurbishment provided a sheet detailing what was
done. Well, the description was a buyers dream: complete bare metal respray,
(with “fibreglassing to smooth the finish” ???), every piece of
chrome removed and rechromed, engine totally redone, transmission rebuilt
(the auctioneer stated that it was a new transmission!), and interior renewed.
The auctioneer claimed the car was “correct” in evry detail, that the interio
r had been retrimmed to Jaguar standards…you get the idea. Oh, and the best
part is that it had 38,000 miles when purchased, and since the bodywork in
82 it has gone only 1500 miles, for a total of less than 40,000. The reality
is different. The car looks excellent from 10 feet. Olde English White, red
interior. But the interior is not LEATHER. it is vinyl (like a 340?)
The wood is excellent. The body shows bubbling at the bottom of the doors, and
the rocker panel just between and below the doors shows signs of hiding
some fairly extensive corrosion. On one side the “crows feet” that support
the front wing and bumper is badly corroded. The bottom of the trunk lid
is bubbled. The chrome looks fairly good, but there are corrosion pits
on the door handles, and trunk license trim, and the rear lights. The chrome
was NOT removed for painting as there is paint clearly to be seen on the
rubber mouldings. The front light bezels need rechroming. In other words,
if you did not know that a Mark II to be correct, must have leather, and
if you did not inspect the car carefully you would not be getting what
you hoped. On the other hand, it sold for $14,100 Canadian, it looked
generally excellent, the bubbling could probably be fixed, etc. But it is
shameful that a reputable auction house could misrepresent in this way.
There was another, and very sad Mark II as well, and a decent 120 Coupe
and a very nicely restored (but not perfect) 150 OTS. CAVEAT EMPTOR.
Gregory Andrachuk, Victoria,
Canada
From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 13:37:25 +0100
Subject: adhesive, rubber to metal
Hi Tony and all others interested;
Re: best adhesive rubber-metal.
A call to 3M lab. produced the following info;
if it’s neoprene, as in a fitting, washer, etc then;
3M-8001 (Neoprene) is best.
If it’s weatherstriping type application and the
rubber is type "EPDM (Ethylene Propylene Dieme Monomer)
(which as we all know is what most auto weatherstrip is
then use 3M- 80119 (which is called weatherstrip adhesive)
Tony,
Amazing that after all your good advice to me I can return
the favour!
Charles Daly
Several months ago I recall an excellent discussion on the best
adhesives ( rubber to metal) available here in the US… I had followed
that advice with great results… We are now in the rather embarrassing
position of having to ask the question again as for some strange reason
I find the only thing we have in stock is the 3M 8001 and 8008 both of
which are useless…Was it 8011 (?) or was there another manufacturer’s product which was
deemed to be best for this application…?Many thanks for your help…
tonyVICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
From: Curt Onstott onstottc@ucs.orst.edu
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 11:01:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: XJ6 Timing?
I finished putting in my rebuilt engine and tried to start up my XJ6 on
Friday. To set the timing I truned the crank until it was 8 degrees
before top dead center. Then I moved the distributor until I got a spark
off of the #6 (front) plug wire.
All I am getting when I try to start the car, is some smoking and spitting
out of the Stromberg carbs. I thought that the timing might be way off,
so I had a friend crank it while I checked it with a timing light. It’s
sparking at 8 degrees. I tried 0 and 12 degrees btdc too. No luck.
Thinking that I might have switched the intake and exhaust cams, I pulled
the cam covers and set the engine to TDC. Since cylinder #6 (front)
should be on it’s power stroke, the next valve to open should be the
exhaust valve. This proved to be the case, so I’m pretty sure that I
didn’t get the cams switched around.
The only thing that I can come up with now, is that my points are bad–
that wouldn’t throw the timing off this much though? Wouldn’t it have to
be really far off for it to be firing while the intake valves are open?
I’m pretty sure I’ve got the plugs wired correctly-- Starting with the
front cylinder (6) and hooking up the wires to the distributor
counter-clockwise in the firing order.
Does anybody have any suggestions?
- -To err is human. To err faster and more efficiently requires a computer.-
Curt Onstott - Windows/DOS/PC Specialist - Information Services - Oregon
State University. - (541) 737-1483 - Office: Kerr 217
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 14:18:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake Pads
LLoyd:
LLoyd’s method is to replace the pads when they are getting thin, otherwise
your $25 brake job quickly becomes $300 if the rotors are damaged. BUT,
OTOH, it seems that at around 100,000 miles rotors need turning anyway.
AutoZone will turn brake rotors for the exorbitant price of $4 each. The
job only gets expensive if you must REPLACE the rotors, and then only on a
Jag. The vented rotors on a Honda cost $20 each, brand new.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 12:35:44 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Re: XJ6 Timing?
{This proved to be the case, so I’m pretty sure that I
{didn’t get the cams switched around.
The way to tell that you have the cams right is that the first
(front) lobes point outboard, towards the fender, when the
timing notch is straight up.
{I’m pretty sure I’ve got the plugs wired correctly-- Starting with the
{front cylinder (6) and hooking up the wires to the distributor
{counter-clockwise in the firing order.
Sounds good. Counter-clockwise is correct and all the old
pharts here know the rest of the words to the old 15-36-24
chant.
{Does anybody have any suggestions?
Do you have new plugs? My old Daimler 250-V8 wouldn’t start
when the plugs were oil fouled. Check for spark at each plug,
then replace them anyway.
Could your timing chain be mis-timed by a couple teeth? With
#6 at tdc, the first cam lobe should point outboard for both
the intake and exhaust cams and their timing notchs should
properly align with the tab in your official Jaguar XK cam
timing tool. Did you lock down the timing-chain tensioning
sprocket?
Carbs set too rich/lean?
/\ Lawrence Buja http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern/
_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
________________Boulder,Colorado___80307-3000
From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 12:46:44 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Re: Jaguar fuel tanks
I always figured that the XJ6 gas-tanks in the fenders were a
last minute design kludge to increase the capacity of the
central area of the trunk. Being so exposed, they are a
serious safety hazard. I can’t believe that someone would be
so stupid to deliberately design them into such a vunerable
area as the exterior side of a passenger car.
I really fear those outboard tanks and have always dreaded the
thought of taking even a light hit in the rear side quarters.
/\ Lawrence Buja http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern/
_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
________________Boulder,Colorado___80307-3000
From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 12:50:57 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: One that got away.
One That Got Away.
Friday, our systems were down due to the start of a big network
upgrade here, so I took the day off. Old habits die hard, so I
was up at 6am as usual and was soon enjoying a hot cup of java
and the Denver morning paper. Eventually I came to the Jaguar
section of the classified ads and I started smiling as I read
a little ad with a header saying it was the first day for it:
'82 XJ6, needs restoration
$500/best offer 555-5555
I waited a bit, then gave in to temptation and called the guy.
I was the first caller. It sounded like a home repair job gone
terminal. The car had been in the family since new and now had
92K on it, Everything was there except the transmission, which
had been removed, then found to be totally shot and now he just
wanted to get rid of the car. Yup, it had a clean title, it had
come from Texas so it had cracked paint, but no rust. All the
locks and windows worked. It was just the parts car I was
looking for, a gold mine of parts: a good 4.2L engine to have
as a spare, seats to swap in while I got mine re-sewed, glass,
chrome, bumpers and body panels, switches, gauges, sensors,
ECU’s; all the little stuff I was getting nickeled-and-dimed to
death on the Daimler. And it came with a set of 5-spoke XJS
wheels that could be sold to cover the purchase price of the
car. I told him that I’d buy it, give me an hour to arrange the
trailer and I’d call him back to set up a time to come and get
it.
I got the trailer and a storage space arranged, then checked in
with Anne to make sure she was OK with it. She said go for it,
so I called the guy back to finish the deal. No answer. I
called every 10 minutes until it was time to run Anne to work.
Same thing, no answer. I figured he’d gone to work or
something. With most of the morning gone, I promised the kids a
trip to the park, but before we left, I tried once more and
finally he answered. It turns out that he lives on the other
side of Denver, 40 miles away. I got his address and said I had
promised to take the kids to the park, so could I meet him at 2
to finalize everything? That was fine.
After lunch and a nice outing at the park, I swung by the bank
to get the $$$, then we left for Denver. We arrived at 2 and
saw a pretty red series III XJ6 sitting in the guy’s driveway,
looking a bit neglected, sitting a bit high with a scrape on one
side, but overall sound. I felt like a mortician as mentally I
totalled up the parts to be worth ~$2000. The guy came out, I
started to look it over and the real story had came out.
Someone else “With a whole warehouse full of these” had come by
an hour earlier with $750 in cash and the weasel had sold it to
him. I did one of those “I’m so stupid for trusting you”
double-takes and just walked out in disgust, the guy trailing
after me saying that he had no choice, he’d gotten dozens of
calls that morning, that he didn’t even expect to get $300 out
of it and that, Wow, you’ve got such a nice Jaguar… I
should’ve reamed the guy a new one for selling it out from
underneath me, but the kids were there, the poor fellow looked
like he needed every penny he could get and I realized it was
partly my fault for not getting there faster.
So this one get’s chalked up as one that got away. I had become
too complacent since all of my recent car purchases were one’s
that weren’t advertised in the paper, so there was no time
pressure to complete those deals. The lesson I came away with
here is that if you come across a real bargain, get it
finalized ASAP and, if it’s in the paper, assume that you have
competition that will try to buy it out from underneath you.
One thing the guy said did stick in my mind: That he didn’t even
expect to get $300 out of it. Maybe there’s more out there that
can be had for less than what this guy was asking. I’ve got
some storage space, access to a trailer and enough experience to
tell the sheeps from the goats. I’ve started thinking about going
trolling with one of these “Dead XJ6’s wanted, have ca$h, will
haul” ads in the paper and see what turns up. I figure that
since I’d have no obligation to buy, I can be picky and that all
I have to lose is my time and the cost of the ad. It would be
so nice to have a good parts car salted away.
So, I’ll end with a question: Has anyone here had any experience
doing something like this? And, if so, do you have any words of
advice.
/\ Lawrence Buja http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern/
_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
________________Boulder,Colorado___80307-3000
From: Ryan Border rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 12:49:54 -0700
Subject: MK1 and some general stuff
Hi Everyone-
First of all, I finally have some new pictures of my car up on
the WWW. Point your browsers at:
http://www.best.com/~border/pages/jag/pictures.shtml
For a page with thumbnails. There are 2 old pics there too.
I’ve also created a page documenting the last couple of months
work (conversion to wires) at:
http://www.best.com/~border/pages/jag/wires.shtml
For those intersted in what a 4.2L motor stuffed into a MK1
really looks like, I finally have a resonable picture of my
engine bay at:
http://www.best.com/~border/pages/jag/images/jag_motor.jpg
I’m totally re-doing my jag page, so there are bound to be broken
links and such for a while if you poke around too much. Apologies
in advance for:
a) broken links
b) the really huge inlined image at the top of my main page (I’m
working to get a different picture for there)
c) The terrible server and network performance at my ISP… you
might want to try at some wierd time if you have trouble getting
the images.
Went to the Hayward show this weekend. At its height, there were, I think,
8 Jags in attendance :-(. I was the only old sedan to show, not a MK2
to be seen. The local Jag club has had this show on their list of “events”
they’d be attending for months, and I was quite surprised not to see quite
a few more show up. 1 E-type coupe, 1 XK150 roadster, 1 XJ40, 4! S2 XJ6-C’s,
and myself… I think that’s all. A pretty good show from the Land-rover
crowd, and a fair number of MG’s. 1 lotus, 1 bugeye, a handful of AH3000’s,
and a bunch of MG’s. On the positive side, there was also a swap meet, and
I did find a “4.2” emblem from the rear of an older E-type cheap, that I
think is going to find a home on my boot-lid.
Update: still having spring troubles. I’ve got brand new S-type/420
springs in the car, and it’s still too low. Everytime I get it shimmed up
to where I think it’s OK; I go drive it and it settles some more :-(. Looks
like I might have to have some big shims (~1.25") made to go between the
springs and the top of the shock towers. The new springs are softer than
what I had before (more coils) and so I need more clearance than before
to keep the tires from rubbing.
Also, the right rear brake seems to be dragging… not enough to make the
motor run hot, or stink things up, or even really notice it driving; but
enough to get the knock-off on that side almost too hot to touch after
a longish highway drive. Not sure what to do about that yet. Discovered
that with wires, I can now get to the bleed nipples on the brakes witout
removing the wheels :-). Neato!
Enough babbling-
Ryan.
From: “George W. Cohn” gwcohn@azstarnet.com
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 13:19:05 -0700
Subject: E-Type Stories
(1) When I was a young stud of 21, my very first car was a 64 E-Type
roadster. One evening while going home after visiting my parents, I came
upon a Porche while crossing some mountains. He decided to race me and
we went at it neck-to-neck at speeds up to 90 mph over this two-lane
twisty mountain road. I was finally getting the best of him when I blew
a freeze plug out of the engine! Needles to say, this put me out of the
race at once. I hitch hiked some 30 miles back to town where my father
helped me find a freeze plug and we came back and installed it in the
dark by the side of the road. After refilling the water, I continued on
home. This incident never seemed to have caused me any adverse problems
and I finally sold the car in 1973 for a princely $1,500 when I bought my
new Datsun 240Z. Had I known then what I know now, I would have been
much better off to just store the car for the last 23 years. Ah 20-20
hindsight.
(2) As I am fast approaching 50 this July, I told my wife last Christmas
that I was having a mid-life crisis and either needed to have an affair
or buy a Jag! She asked me what kind of Jag I wanted! After a little
searching here in town, we found a British car shop that had a
basket-case 70 E-Type roadster. They were going to restore it but after
restoring a 71, they could not justify the time or expense until the 71
got sold. I didn’t really want it but my wife kept telling me that I
would only kick myself for the next 15 years if I passed it up. Needless
to say, with that kind of support, the E now resides in my garage. I was
truly fortunate in that after I got it stripped down, there was very
little rust. The floorpans had rusted out where they had accumulated
water during storage but that was all I could find. It is an Arizona car
with only 56K miles on it. The down side is that during the 5 years it
sat at the car place, they misplaced many small items as they were
starting the restoration. I have spent about $1,500 on new and used bits
and pieces and I believe that I now have about 98% of the car. I am
close to painting it and reassembling it and hope to be able to take my
wife for a spin it it by this Christmas. I’ll keep you posted on my
progress.
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 14:18:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake Pads
WOW, Kirby makes my whole day!
<> LLoyd’s method is to replace the pads when they are getting thin, otherwise
<>your $25 brake job quickly becomes $300 if the rotors are damaged. BUT,
<>OTOH, it seems that at around 100,000 miles rotors need turning anyway.
<
<AutoZone will turn brake rotors for the exorbitant price of $4 each. The
<job only gets expensive if you must REPLACE the rotors, and then only on a
<Jag. The vented rotors on a Honda cost $20 each, brand new.
This is a great example of why each of us should learn to do a few of the
basic auto repairs. A local university or even a local high school shop
class. Few things give this great a return of your time/money.
LLoyd - currently relearning my painting skills -
From: Ryan Border rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 13:42:41 -0700
Subject: XJ6 Timing
Curt writes:
I finished putting in my rebuilt engine and tried to start up my XJ6 on
Friday. To set the timing I truned the crank until it was 8 degrees
before top dead center. Then I moved the distributor until I got a spark
off of the #6 (front) plug wire.
Using this method gives you a 50% chance of getting it right. Remember
that the spark hits every other time a cylider hits TDC. You
can either check the manuals, make sure that everything is just right,
or just try moving the distributor 180 degrees. If you’re getting
smoking at the carbs:
All I am getting when I try to start the car, is some smoking and spitting
out of the Stromberg carbs.
it sounds to me like you might be firing the spark at the end of the exhaust
stroke, as the intake valve is just opening. The way to correct this (if
this is what’s wrong) is to move the plug wires on the cap (rotate
them 1/2 way around, preserving the 153624 firing order). All together
now:
“15’s too young, 36’s too old, 24’s just right”
Thinking that I might have switched the intake and exhaust cams, I pulled
the cam covers and set the engine to TDC. Since cylinder #6 (front)
should be on it’s power stroke, the next valve to open should be the
exhaust valve.
Can’t help but chuckle, and if you’d followed my adventures with this a
few months back you’d know why. As I learned the hard way: if your cams
are indeed swapped, your motor will suck at the tail-pipe rather than blow.
Put your hand over it and see what it’s doing.
If the cam covers are off, and the motor is at TDC, then the lobes on #6
(at the front of the car) should point up and out, at about 45 degrees.
If the notches are down, turn the motor over once, back to TDC and confirm
this is where they are at. If they’re pointing up and in, then your cams
are swapped.
Since cylinder #6 (front)
should be on it’s power stroke, the next valve to open should be the
exhaust valve. This proved to be the case, so I’m pretty sure that I
didn’t get the cams switched around.
See above- at TDC the exhaust valve should either be:
o quite a way from opening (you’ve got a whole power stroke to do, this
corresponds to up-and-out, notches up position), or- just closing at
the end of an exhaust stroke (this is 180 degrees from up and out==
down and in, timing notches are “down”)
Does anybody have any suggestions?
Check the distributor orientation.
Ryan.
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #143
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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 11 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 144
E-Type story
Another one that got away.
XJ6 oil sender
Re: [General] A/C and heater on/off controversy
Why two tanks?
buying a Jag(Gregory Andrachuk)
XJS V12 Overheating
Need Help on Tappet Guide…
Re: 1985 XJS Question?
Re: 1985 XJS Question / tire wear
Re: Oil pressure, to go or not to go, that os the question [XJ6]
Bargain XJS Purchase
Hello
For Lloyd re:Adhesives
Re: S2 Ingnition Light Perm On
Webers and Gas-flowed heads for non-HE V12s
Mk2 and Two Inch Carb Conversion
bargain xjs
From: LLoyd 3030P%NAVPGS.BitNet@pucc.PRINCETON.EDU
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 96 14:00:59 PDT
Subject: E-Type story
Lawrence, this is for the electrical section of your book…
When I purchased my E-Type, the body was rusted but the driveline had been
carefully and expensively refurbished. The transmisison was so new it didn’t
even have dust on it. The head had been removed, but I didn’t know what all had
been done inside. The PO was the traditional “Little old man” and had died.
But every time I turned right, the car would stagger, stumble, miss and
die. At first the problem felt like a carburator float malfunction, but after
experimenting a bit I noticed it would run if I jerked the wheel to the left,
then quit when I turned back to the right.
So I started looking at electrical solutions. No oil leaking from the
coil, nothing abnormal with the distributer. So when I pulled the bonnet off
to clean and repaint I followed the wireing carefully.
Sure enough, the low voltage wire on the coil was barely connected. When I
turned right it would pull off far enough to disconnect. Going straight or
turning left it made contact. Six inches of new wire and a connector at each
end made for the cheapest fix one could hope for.
LLoyd
From: LLoyd 3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@pucc.PRINCETON.EDU
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 96 14:20:34 PDT
Subject: Another one that got away.
I guess the pain has subsided enough that I can share the story of my car,
the one that goat away.
I live in Monterey Ca. One day I saw an ad for a '70 Jaguar XKE Convertable,
best offer. I said, sure, but not in my price range, so I didn’t call. A week
went by and the ad was still in there. What the heck, so I called.
Turned out it ran and the owner drove it into the garage, a warm, dry, heated
garage in a residential area. They were turning the garage into a den and need-
ed the space. It sat there three years. They had just sold it a few minutes ago
but thanks for calling. I asked if they would tell me how much they got for it.
Five thousand dollars, they said.
I asked if I could come over and look at it. They said OK, so off I went.
It was beautiful. Almost perfect black leather interior, british racing
green, wires in great shape, and not a spot of rust could I find. The only
thing wrong was a cracked windshield.
I don’t awaken at night crying any more, but then again I haven’t told anyone
about it either. I haven’t seen it around town, the new owner is probably
laughing so hard he can’t steer.
LLoyd
From: “Roger langley” lang0080@gold.tc.umn.edu
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 09:27:41
Subject: XJ6 oil sender
Thje manual is not correct. The oil sender is about a foot forward of the oil
filter and quite high up the block; about 6 or 7 inches higher than the oil
filter. It is quite visible from beneathbut I could not get a wrench in there!
Not that there is also a sensing unit for the oil pressure, as opposed to the
idiot light on the oil filter.
Roger Langley
lang0080@gold.tc.umn.edu
612-771-0806
University of Minnesota
St. Paul, Minnesota, USA
From: tony goodall tony@goodall.u-net.com
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 23:10:32 +0100
Subject: Re: [General] A/C and heater on/off controversy
At 17:30 09/06/96 +0100, Kirby Palm wrote:
Before you guys get all excited about disconnecting the compressor and
gaining big MPG, let me point out that tests on several cars have reportedly
shown they get better fuel economy with the A/C on and the windows shut than
with the A/C off and the windows open. Take with whatever grain of salt you
choose.
I remember something about this too -
the increase in drag factor with open windows is way more than the HP that the
AC uses
Also - with the AC on, you need a lower fan setting, the alternator has less
load!
(must save a small amount of HP)
In my xj40, at most I save 1mpg with the AC off
If the only consideration is fuel consumption, then get a 1 litre car, or a
diesel
or cut the exhaust off, that “wastes” HP as well
tony
Dr. A. Goodall http://www.u-net.com/~goodall/
From: david_gruber@fmc.com (DAVID GRUBER)
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 13:22:49 -0500
Subject: Why two tanks?
Many thanks to those who responded to my original post about the theories behind
the two tanks. The general consensus seems to be that the body design was the
reason for splitting the tanks in two and placing them upright in the rear
wings, but why the tanks aren’t interconnected is certainly less clear.
Redundancy can’t be the reason as the systems are not fully redundant.
Weight distribution is not an issue, as Kirby points out, because the weights
are relatively insignificant.
Perhaps the British are more apt than most to park off the side of the road with
one side resting lower than the other (although I’m at a loss to recall a time
when I’ve parked in such a manner). I’m no engineer, but it seems to me that
there would be some way to prevent overflow from tanks.
I guess we’ll only know for certain if we hear from someone involved in the
design. The cars were manufactured for so many years that way, that you would
think there was a compelling reason. Which reminds me of an anecdote…
A young, recently-married woman called her mother to ask for advice on preparing
a roast. “Get a 10 lb roast,” her mother replied, “And cut off 3 inches from
the end.” Curious, the young girl asked why. “I don’t know,” said the mother,
“That’s just the ways it’s done - it’s the way I’ve always done it, and the way
my mother taught me.” After thinking about it for some time, the mother
telephoned HER mother and asked her the same question, to which the grandmother,
a bit annoyed, replied, “That’s just the ways it’s done - it’s the way I’ve
always done it, and the way MY mother taught ME.”
At a holiday get-together, the daughter, mother, and grandmother began
discussing the reasons why, for generations now, they had been trimming 3 inches
of meat from each roast they cooked. “That end has the most fat”, offered one.
“No, it’s the toughest end”, suggested another. Finally, the great-grandmother
walked into the room and the daughter confronted her with the question - “Why on
earth did you cut 3 inches from every roast?”. To which the great-grandmother
simply replied, “I only had a small roasting pan.”
One final thought - what fuel tank scheme is used in the XJ40? As I recall,
there is just a single top-mounted filler - does this mean there is just one
tank? If so, is it conventionally mounted? Maybe the XJ40 team realized that
all they needed was a bigger roasting pan…
From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 19:13:32 +0100
Subject: buying a Jag(Gregory Andrachuk)
Hi Gregory,
Isn’t “a reputable auction house” as oxy a moron
as a virginal cathouse?
Grins,
Charles
From: I Macfarlane icm@ozemail.com.au
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 11:42:48 +1000 (EST)
Subject: XJS V12 Overheating
We have had a long weekend here in Sydney (and my wife’s away) so I took the
opportunity to fully check out the distributor, emission control, cooling
system etc. to try and find out why the car was overheating.
I found the problem. Someone had changed the emission control/vacuum system.
In Australia the distributor has a retard connection on the vacuum module
which is supposed to operate for about 15 min after starting via a solenoid
valve.
But the wire leading to the solenoid valve had been cut (as had the wire to
the solenoid air switch). Thus, even though the distributor timing was
correct - with the vacuum tubes disconnected, the engine ran at about 6 deg
retarded under normal conditions.
Although this would not exactly apply to other emission systems it is
another option for those with an overheating problem - if the vacuum system
was not working properly it is feasible that overheating could occur due to
retardation.
From: Quang Ngo qlogic!ngo@netcom.com
Date: Mon, 10 Jun 1996 18:16:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Need Help on Tappet Guide…
Hello everyone,
A friend of mine has a 1990 XJ40. He bought it new 6 years go.
Unfortunaly, it has ticking sound from the valve cover. It sounds so loud
that you can even hear from the inside of the car. The local dealer in
San Jose, CA wants ~$1000 to fix it. I told him about tappet guide and
such , but I can’t explain very much to him since I don’t know much about
it. Would someone please give me some explanation or advice which I can
pass it on to him.
Does anyone who lives in the bay area (CA, USA) know any reasonable place
to go to besides the San Jose British Motors dealer?
Thanks,
- -Quang (ngo@qlogic.com)
89 XJ40 (black)
89 MBZ 300E (red)
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 11 Jun 96 14:22:59
Subject: Re: 1985 XJS Question?
David Blender :
How do I retrieve the remains of the sparkplug?
If the insulator came out of the steel part and all of the steel part is in the
block, just unscrew it as usual. If the steel part snapped at the start of the
thread, you’ll need to find something like a file tang - triangular or square
section, sharp edges, hard - that can be forced into the threaded piece to give
you enough grip to unscrew it. A bolt extractor would also do the job, if you
can find one large enough. It shouldn’t take a lot of force, so gently does it,
at least at first …
Have I destroyed the engine by driving it home?
If you can find all the pieces of the spark plug, there can be nothing loose
inside the cylinder and the answer is no. If some small metal part is missing,
the answer is still no, since it will have blown out through the plug hole or
the exhaust before doing more than superficial denting of the piston crown or
combustion chamber. If a piece of insulator is missing, it would be an idea to
borrow an endoscope and have a look inside the cylinder, since it would be hard
enough to scratch the cylinder wall.
What the heck would cause a sparkplug to literally go orbital?
A merely loose plug could simply blow out after unscrewing, and a stripped
thread could be too weak to withstand combustion pressure. As for the plug
actually coming apart, this can only be a manufacturing fault - over-tightening
in an aluminium head would strip the aluminium thread long before the plug
could be even strained - and your lawyer should have a little chat with
Champion.
Good luck!
- -Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 11 Jun 96 13:45:28
Subject: Re: 1985 XJS Question / tire wear
Matthias Fouquet-Lapar :
I have tire wear on ONE front wheel, the inner side of the tire is almost gone.
Seems very much like too much negative camber on that wheel, combined with
toe-out (normally, toe-out on its own will wear both wheels on the inner edge).
I’d suggest you take it to a local tyre shop and have them measure (not
adjust) all wheel angles. The reason why they should not be allowed to adjust
the angles is that their data books seem to be wrong most of the time. Compare
their readings with the Jaguar book, then do the adjustments yourself; it’s
easy.
I don’t know what model you have, but series I - II - III XJs are supposed to
have the suspension held at half height by special tools during measurement.
I’ve never bothered, and have achieved excellent results in terms of handling,
road holding and tyre wear. Maybe because my springs are so tired that the
suspension sits at half height all the time…
Incidentally, If it’s of any interest, I’m running my non-standard tires
(235-60 x 15) at 35 psi front, 29 psi rear for best balance (XJ12C). This seems
to prevent edge scrubbing of the front tyres.
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 11 Jun 96 14:07:11
Subject: Re: Oil pressure, to go or not to go, that os the question [XJ6]
James Isbell :
The oil pressure looks normal at idle, 70PSI. as the RPM increases the oil
pressure goes up to 75PSI. When the engine reached 2000 rpm the oil
pressure drops to ZERO.
As the pressure reading obviously doesn’t track the actual pressure, I’d ignore
the indicator and drive as usual until I can find the fault and rectify it. The
readout that matters is the idiot light; as long as it stays off, you’re sweet.
-
- Jan
From: GFoster737@gnn.com (Gerald Foster)
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 01:53:49
Subject: Bargain XJS Purchase
Dear Fellow Jagites,
I need some E-Mail on this one. I have an opportunity to buy one of
a couple of 86 XJS’s. Before I even bother to have a mechanic give them the
pre-purchase, I am looking at the ballpark value so that if they aren’t too
far gone I can make my best offer.
Car A: 86, signal red, (a repaint from original dark blue) blue interior,
leather fair, alloy rims, tires only fair, Pirelli P5’s, under bonnet is
rough looking but engine runs smoothly, all belts and hoses bad, one was
leaking as it ran. Brake pedal almost went completely to floor going around
the block. Car leaking antifreeze too badly to go much further without
on-spot repairs. Battery shot, had to jump it. AC compressor shot, heater
and core unknown. Rust on passenger side at rear of door down at upper
rocker panel area. Rust beginning on rear quarter panel drivers above
leading edge of bumper. Front and rear bumpers look OK all other chrome
good. Car has flip up sunroof installed (is this factory) neatly done.
Inside of car looks good, oil pressure came up nicely and most gauges seem
to work, even trip computer. Original Jag. radio. Car shows 99K but there
are no records for the car and background of car is unknown. Lowball price
offered to me, $3700.00 US (Was asking 5K) I can maybe get it for less.
Car B: 86, met. cobalt blue, looks very good. Interior, blue with cracks in
leather, two cracks on dash and cracked finish on wood parts. Wire wheels
(look good) and good Michelin tires. Owner says car has 130K mostly road
miles and has owned since 1991. Bought with 63K on it. Owner says all
hoses and belts recently replaced, trans. rebuilt, and many more documented
repairs and replacements, Brakes good and car was daily driver till last
month when engine developed some noise. Chrome, bumpers etc. look very
good. This car looks much better than the red one but I suspect the engine
is Kaput and the owner knows it. If this one had the engine out of the red
one, I would not hesitate to have my mechanic tow it in for a checkup and
start bargaining in earnest. Car seems rust free. Lowball price $3500.00
US and maybe a bit less (Was asking 5K)
Are they (either one) worth a roll of the dice? Prices too high?
Thanks
Gerald
From: v.bromfield@uts.edu.au (Vaughan Bromfield)
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 16:46:50 +1000
Subject: Hello
Hello Folks
My name is Vaughan Bromfield, I am from Sydney Australia.
I currently feel a teensy-bit uneasy… I have not yet bought a Jaguar, but
I have found one that I want.
It’s a white (or cream) Mark II 3.4 litre. It is presently parked under a
cover at the back of a country service station that belongs to my cousin.
It is out of rego but doesn’t have any rust in the doors. The interior
looks great to my eyes, a bit of rough wood on the doors but the dash looks
beautiful.
I have been looking around for a classic car for a while… I have browsed
the Minis, checked out MGs, but really been attracted by Jags. It started
when I took a '76 XJ-S V12 in a car yard for a test drive… but the Mark
II seems more my style and budget!
I have already availed myself of the many Jag resources on the net, so I
won’t be asking you what to look for, and how much I should pay, etc. I am
interested in hearing your stories and experiences (and sharing mine soon)
and especially meeting people in and around Sydney!
Other than Jags, my consuming passion is photography (hobby is far too
inadequate descriptor).
Hope to hear from you soon.
Vaughan
| Vaughan Bromfield | |
| Education Consultant | |
| Information Technology Division | |
| University of Technology, Sydney | Phone: (02) 330 1990 |
| P.O. Box 123 | Fax: (02) 330 1169 |
| Broadway 2007 (Australia) | V.Bromfield@uts.edu.au |
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 05:02:48 -0700
Subject: For Lloyd re:Adhesives
In trying to reply to LLoyd Nolan this message seems to be bounced back
to me … therefor I do apologize for the additional traffic …not of
great interest to the group as a whole…
thank you… tony
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From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Subject: Re: Adhesives
To: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Hey Lloydie, we really do have to meet one day… you really make me
laugh and that is good these days !!
I am just a plonker ( as they say in the UK) like everybody else! In
the UK we do not have these kind of problems as we can use pretty much
anything that has been banned in other countries… over here I have
tobe smarted whic is definately taxing !!
Sorry I am watching the Hockey game Stanley cup finals as I write this
so I will be backto you on a more substantive basis tomorrow…
all the best
tony
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
From: Paul Peard Paul.Peard@BankersTrust.com
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 13:42:13 +0100
Subject: Re: S2 Ingnition Light Perm On
I had the same problem on a completely different
car, the ignition light would come on sometime
after I left the car, and all the switched power
type accesories (radio, heated rear windscreen etc.
would wake up). Turned out to be a fault in the
regulator/rectifier bit of the alternator, mine was
just loose connections, but its in that area.
Regards
Paul
From: p.hyslop@utoronto.ca (p.hyslop)
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 09:37:54 -0400
Subject: Webers and Gas-flowed heads for non-HE V12s
In response to my plea for info on the feasibility/advisability
replacing the four standard Strombergs with six 40mm ICD Webers and gas
flowing the heads on my '74 V12-XKE, Jan Wikstroem wrote:
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 7 Jun 96 13:06:51
Subject: Re: Webers and Gas-flowed heads for non-HE V12sI know it’s different strokes, Peter, but why don’t you get fuel injection?
The
FI manifolds bolt on and there are many aftermarket injection control units
around (all better than the original K-Jetronic, believe me). You’ll need a
pressurising pump as well, but it doesn’t have to be Jaguar. Some control
units
provide for two pumps, one small for running around town and one large for
heavy stuff, which is an improvement as the genuine Jaguar setup circulates
the
fuel through the bonnet plumbing at a huge rate, which heats it to the point
where the tanks become uncomfortably hot to touch.A good fuel injection system will give you more power, lower fuel consumption
and better driveability, and will probably save you two thirds of the cost
of
a six Weber setup - at least if you get second-hand manifolds and throttle
bodies.
Have fun!
- -Jan
Thanks Jan,
I suspect that's probably a very clean technical approach. The only
picture that I have seen on fuel injection for V-12 E-types is in Chris
Harvey’s book “E-type: End of an Era”. It seemed to be a very daunting
set-up, with masses of tubes and wires. The picture of the V-12 with six
Webers in the same book seemed much more straightforward to install, but
perhaps not so straightforward to set-up and maintain.
Does anyone else have hand's on experience with (or an opinionon)
either adding an aftermarket fuel injection system or Weber’s and
gas-flowing the heads?
Peter
From: mslade mslade@fidler.co.uk
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 96 9:41:11 BST
Subject: Mk2 and Two Inch Carb Conversion
I am shortly expecting to receive a pair of two inch carbs for
fitting to my 1964 Mk II (Thanks a million Jeff). I know John
McDonagh has done this conversion himself, and has ground out the
manifold to fit them. My question is - John, what do you do about
the ‘starter carb’ - the automatic choke? - does this still fit
onto the two inch carbs have you added on a manual one instead?
Any help very gratefully received,~
Mark ('64 MkII 3.8 - called Gracie, and getting better every day…)
From: RWOODLIN@garfield.foods.indiana.edu
Date: 11 Jun 96 08:44:41 EDT
Subject: bargain xjs
Gerald,
Car A will probably need even more than you have described. For Car B
I would determine exactly what the ‘noise’ is that the engine has developed.
For reference: I recently purchased a 1984 XJ-S H.E. Cobalt Blue
Doeskin interior. The car had some serious fluid leaks, the paint is
cracked, rust above the bumper on drivers rear quarter, boot lid
showing bubbles, aftermarket A/C compressor shot, driver’s chair
cracked leather with split seams, trip computer with an attitude,
original radio works but belts in tape deck worn out, front suspension
worn. In short about what you would expect from a daily driver with
105,000 on the clock fron northern Indiana.
Cost for repairs if all jobs farmed out -
Repaint - old paint MUST be stripped, body reprimed - $3 - 5,000.
Reseal, regasket engine
2,500
A/C compressor, recharge, update harness
900
Rebuild front suspension
1,200
Replace hoses and probably H2O pump
1,200
Rebuild distributor (you will probably need to)
800
Reseal transmission and replace ‘O’ rings
500
Book value of cars is approx $8,000. If you can do most of the work
yourself you will save almost 50% on above prices.
I hope this helps and doesn’t scare you off. In the end a well
maintained XJ-S is a wonderfull machine a a real pleasure to drive.
Robert Woodling
‘84 XJ-S
slummin’ in the fast lane
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #144
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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 12 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 145
bargain xjs
RE: E-Type story
Re: XK120 steering expander spring
It breathes! (and leaks)
Trade Rusty Morgan for XJS
The one that got away.
Re: Advice on cars as a bussiness.
Another E-type story…
HVAC COMPANIES SUPPLYING JAG
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #139 MY changes
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #133
Re[2]: Brake Pads
S-type springs
Re: Mk2 and Two Inch Carb Conversion
Re: stalling problem
Re: Teflon /nylon washer on oil plug
Re: '89/XJ-40 / Troubles in Manhattan
Re: S-type springs
From: RWOODLIN@garfield.foods.indiana.edu
Date: 11 Jun 96 08:44:41 EDT
Subject: bargain xjs
Gerald,
Car A will probably need even more than you have described. For Car B
I would determine exactly what the ‘noise’ is that the engine has developed.
For reference: I recently purchased a 1984 XJ-S H.E. Cobalt Blue
Doeskin interior. The car had some serious fluid leaks, the paint is
cracked, rust above the bumper on drivers rear quarter, boot lid
showing bubbles, aftermarket A/C compressor shot, driver’s chair
cracked leather with split seams, trip computer with an attitude,
original radio works but belts in tape deck worn out, front suspension
worn. In short about what you would expect from a daily driver with
105,000 on the clock fron northern Indiana.
Cost for repairs if all jobs farmed out -
Repaint - old paint MUST be stripped, body reprimed - $3 - 5,000.
Reseal, regasket engine
2,500
A/C compressor, recharge, update harness
900
Rebuild front suspension
1,200
Replace hoses and probably H2O pump
1,200
Rebuild distributor (you will probably need to)
800
Reseal transmission and replace ‘O’ rings
500
Book value of cars is approx $8,000. If you can do most of the work
yourself you will save almost 50% on above prices.
I hope this helps and doesn’t scare you off. In the end a well
maintained XJ-S is a wonderfull machine a a real pleasure to drive.
Robert Woodling
‘84 XJ-S
slummin’ in the fast lane
From: “White, Dick” white@msgate.columbiasc.ncr.com
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 96 10:11:00 edt
Subject: RE: E-Type story
LLoyd,
I had a very similar problem with my S-Type a few years ago. The car would
run very well as long as I was accelerating but would stumble or stall when
idling or running at a constant speed. The low voltage wire on the coil was
broken at the connector. When accelerating the torque of the engine would
twist the engine on its mounts and the wire would make good contact. When
decelerating or idling the engine would go back to rest and the wire would
move away from the connector. Isn’t it a great feeling when you find those
simple (and cheap) ones.
Dick White
Columbia, SC
'64 S-Type
'58 XK150 FHC
From: LLoyd
Sure enough, the low voltage wire on the coil was barely connected. When
I
turned right it would pull off far enough to disconnect. Going straight or
turning left it made contact. Six inches of new wire and a connector at
each
end made for the cheapest fix one could hope for.
LLoyd
From: kboetzer@auspex.com (Ken Boetzer)
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 08:31:11 -0700
Subject: Re: XK120 steering expander spring
From jag-lovers-owner@sn.no Sat Jun 8 23:09:34 1996
X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers using -f
To: jag-lovers@sn.no, 100353.1733@compuserve.com, Dikavik@aol.com
Cc: TSBarbour@aol.com, b_baysinger@msn.com, kboetzer@Auspex.Com,
jamesc@oasis.novia.net, Curranrj@aol.com, sduchene@mindspring.com,
carpex@ix.netcom.com, ehuff@tuba.aix.calpoly.edu, scikom@ibm.net,
saraanni@northcoast.com, johnsosi@cla.orst.edu,
100722.1033@compuserve.com, andy_leavitt@qmgate.arc.nasa.gov,
elgparts@xnet.com, V145@aol.com, vicarage@ix.netcom.com,
jmpino@lander.es, 76625.747@compuserve.com, reilly@admail.fnal.gov,
erubacha@mail.wesleyan.edu, sellc@usa.red-cross.org,
jqjf14a@prodigy.com, 103234.320@compuserve.com, Skippena@aol.com,
elephant@netrunner.net, dont@echuca.net.au,
white@msgate.ColumbiaSC.ATTGIS.COM, z@iamug.org
Subject: Re: XK120 steering expander spring
Sender: owner-jag-lovers@sn.no
Content-Length: 1197Okay XK fans, what is the general consensus on which way the steering column
expander spring goes? Does the narrow end go towards the steering wheel, or
towards the firewall.
In mine, (No promise of originality.) the small end is toward the firewall.
Cheers,
Ken (140 DHC)
From: Curt Onstott onstottc@ucs.orst.edu
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 08:35:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: It breathes! (and leaks)
Yesterday I posted about my XJ6 not starting. As most people advised me,
it was 180 degrees out of time. Doh! I was setting the crank at 8
degrees before top dead center, moving the distributor to get a spark and
then wiring from there. Unfortunately, I was setting the spark for the
exhaust stroke.
I’ve done a total of 3 distributors and 3 compplete engine rebuilds where
I had to set the timing. I’ve always been lucky enough to set the spark
on the compression stroke!
I’ve got bad coolant leak somewhere around the thermostat housing and
haven’t tracked it down yet. Is there anything prone to leak in this area
on a SII XJ6?
- -To err is human. To err faster and more efficiently requires a computer.-
Curt Onstott - Windows/DOS/PC Specialist - Information Services - Oregon
State University. - (541) 737-1483 - Office: Kerr 217
From: Curt Onstott onstottc@ucs.orst.edu
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 08:41:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Trade Rusty Morgan for XJS
I’ve got a 64 Morgan 4+4 4 seater that I would be willing to trade for a
decent running XJS. The car is apart having it’s wood replaced. It has
almost all of the hard to find Morgan parts and would be a steal even as a
parts car.
Anybody interested?
- -To err is human. To err faster and more efficiently requires a computer.-
Curt Onstott - Windows/DOS/PC Specialist - Information Services - Oregon
State University. - (541) 737-1483 - Office: Kerr 217
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 11:05:39 -0500
Subject: The one that got away.
Well I guess I have to tell mine.
I was in London in 1971 looking for Bentleys. I had not at that time
gotten into Jaguars yet. I had the requisite copy of Exchange and Mart and
was scouring the adds. I had several Bentlys lined up to go see when I saw
an add for a “SS100 Roadster” . My wife said ,“Whats that?” and I
replied,“I dont know” but the price was right, 150 pounds.
I ignored the add for three days as I was looking for Bentleys, not SS100s.
Then on the thrid day I decided to do some research. When I found out what
it was I immediately called the number. “We just sold it a few minutes
ago.” So I asked what shape it was in. “Oh, we drove it every day. The
man that just bought it is driving it home to Salisbury.”
I whimper every time I think about it.
Jim
===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"
John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: kboetzer@auspex.com (Ken Boetzer)
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 09:54:11 -0700
Subject: Re: Advice on cars as a bussiness.
lawns. I have just presented a contract on a place out in the country with
13 acres and three garages, a two car attached, a two call carport, and a 4
car commercial garage. My wife says I didnt even look at the house, and she
is probably right. But a house is just to sleep in a garage is to live in.Jim
Jim,
I dissagree. We all sleep in the shop! Wife, 10 year old daughter, 14 year old
son, dogs, birds, cat, whatever. I built the “shop” with lots of temporary walls
so we could move in, then sell the house we were living in and build “the house”
as my stock options gained value. Well the silicon valley playes tricks on people
and we’re still in the shop. Fortunately no one minds terribly. We have plenty
of room and the lack of elegance just doesn’t matter that much. We have privacy,
lots of fun, and shoot the potato cannon whenever we feel like it. We’re on 20
acres in the Santa Cruz mountains.
It looks like I’ll start the house in a year or so. Then we’ll sleep in the house.
Ken Boetzer
From: Dan Graves dan@fubar.rose.hp.com
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 11:08:08 PDT
Subject: Another E-type story…
content-type:text/plain;charset=us-ascii
mime-version:1.0
At the risk of these E-type stories getting old I’ll keep it short! I
took my series II OTS down to the local coin-op car wash to give it a good
cleaning (I like using the foam engine degreaser they have in those guns).
I was done cleaning my cat and pushed it over to a parking stall to dry
the distributor cap and the rest of the car. I pushed it around the
corner and parked it right next to a guy in his series III coupe. It was
silver with red interior and one of the nicest looking coupes I’ve ever seen.
After talking with him for a little while I learned that he was just finishing
up a ground up restoration and had already sold the car to Ferrari of Los
Gatos (northern CA). After we’d both finished drying everything we could
find under the bonnet (so the engines would run) he fired it up. WOW!, talk
about music! The combination of a freshly rebuilt V12 and the resonators he
had on the car made for some beautiful sounds. He asked if I wanted to go
for a spin so I thought about it for about a millisecond and got in the car.
The reason I said that he was “finishing” up the restoration was because he
hadn’t received the windshield gasket that he’d ordered so he was driving
it around without a windshield. We were both in our twenties and thought
we were cool so we took off down the nearby expressway.
Picture this! A bright sunny day with two idiots flying down an expressway
in a silver E-type coupe at about 100mph, no windshield, hot air coming out
of the engine compartment cooling vents and both guys looking sideways out
the front attempting to see. IT WAS GREAT!!
I gave him a ride in my car when we got back but that was boring.
Dan
'69 E-type OTS
From: Alan Akeister 100705.3012@compuserve.com
Date: 11 Jun 96 17:17:28 EDT
Subject: HVAC COMPANIES SUPPLYING JAG
hi, all,
This may be of some use to you, or not.
Delanair were the supplier of HVAC (Heating, Ventalation & Air Control) units to Jag,
and were taken over by Valeo Climate Control. They were suppling XJS until the end.
Addresses: New Road, HEOL-Y-MYNYDD
Ammanford, Gorseinon
Dyfed. West Glamorgan
South Wales. South Wales
SA18 3ET SA4 1XX
Tel: 01269-3131 Tel: 01792 898855
Fax: 01269-591269 Fax: ?
For all new models, X100, X200, X300 onwards, the HVAC company is now NDM
Manufacturing Ltd, a joint company between Nippon Denso & Magnetti Marelli
Address: Queensway Campus
Hortonwood
Telford.
TF1 4FS
England
Tel: 01952-608400
Fax: 01952-675222 (remember to remove the first 0 when dialling from abroad)
NDM make HVAC units for Toyota Carina, Jaguar X300 & X100, Audi A8,
Land-Rover 38A (Range Rover, new model) and Discovery (1995MY onward, dual heater controls)
In Japan, they are a huge manufacturer, supplying most car manufacturers, with
the exception of Nissan (Calsonic Climate Controls) and Honda UK (Valeo)
A lot of the parts are interchangerble on these units, so keep an eye for the future
Classic buyers!
Best Regards
Alan Akeister
From: Alan Akeister 100705.3012@compuserve.com
Date: 11 Jun 96 17:17:35 EDT
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #139 MY changes
Hi, All,
back from the USA, Wis Dells. Only saw two jags there, two XJ6’s, saw a lot more
in Chicago though!
Model Year changes.
Jaguar, like all UK manufacturers (with the exception of Peugeot… ), close for
the summer shutdown for two weeks in July.
This time is then used to carry out maintenance on the production lines, and for
the process engineers to make the Model Year changes on the track. So, a 95MY
vehicle could be from July 1994 untill July 1995.
Whilst the new MY vehicles are built, they take some time normally to enter the
system, i.e. January.
Hope this helps,
Alan Akeister
From: Alan Akeister 100705.3012@compuserve.com
Date: 11 Jun 96 17:17:39 EDT
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #133
To: lwalden@ebmud.com (Lee Walden)
<<Hello all. When were the first “factory” convertible XJS V-12s built?>>
sorry for the delay, have been vacationing in Wisconsin Dells,
Do you mean convertable, or cabriolet?
XJS-C H.E. V12 Cabriolet launched July 1985 at a cost of 26,995 GBP, Vin No.
125021, discontinued February 1988
VIN No. 148594
V12 Convertable launched April 1988, cost of 36,000 GBP Vin No. 147269
4.0 Litre convertable launched May 1992 cost 39,000 GBP, Vin No. 184574
Hope this helps
Regards,
Alan Akeister
From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 17:35:41 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: Brake Pads
Virtually all the auto parts places around here will turn your rotors for
free, if you buy the pads from them. They don’t stock pads for my E-Type,
but then again they can’t tell the difference between an E-Type rotor and a
Honda rotor. Bought an extra set of pads for the wife’s Honda (she already
has over 340,000 miles on it, so she does go through pads every now and
again) and handed them a set of E-Type rotors. They smiled and turned them
for free.
MikeC
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Brake Pads
Author: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu at INTERNET
Date: 06/10/96 02:18 PM
LLoyd:
LLoyd’s method is to replace the pads when they are getting thin, otherwise
your $25 brake job quickly becomes $300 if the rotors are damaged. BUT,
OTOH, it seems that at around 100,000 miles rotors need turning anyway.
AutoZone will turn brake rotors for the exorbitant price of $4 each. The
job only gets expensive if you must REPLACE the rotors, and then only on a
Jag. The vented rotors on a Honda cost $20 each, brand new.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Ryan Border rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 16:07:40 -0700
Subject: S-type springs
Howdy-
Well as I mentioned yesterday, I am having troubles with my new front
coil springs on my MK1 (needed new springs to accomodate the new
420 uprights). The story goes something like:
Install springs: look too long. Are my shock towers shorter than an S-type?
Drive car: car settles. car settles a lot. Springs are too short.
Measure, remove and shim springs: It’s close. Drive a bit. Car settles
some more, and is uneven.
Measure, remove and shim springs: Drive car and measure. Yay! it’s
spot on. Drive car about 15miles, no rubbing, I’m happy.
Next day, drive car: car has settled and is rubbing a bit on corners. 20
miles later its rubbing on occasional bumps. 20 more miles and its
barely driveable. It’s settled at least another inch.
I alluded to these problems and Lloyd mentioned that he thinks he heard
about a bad batch of these springs. I called the vendor (British Auto USA)
who says another customer had the same sort of problems last week. They’ll
take them back, but don’t have another set to sell me. XK’s Unlimited
advertised these springs in their latest flyer, but a phone call later
I learned they don’t actually have any. They too have had at least one
customer who had problems with S-type springs. I’ve tried a few other
sources to no avail.
Questions:
o Looks like I’ve got bad springs. I guess the “bad batch” weren’t
tempered properly and just continue to sag. I have about 1.25"
of shim on one side of my car right now, and it’s still too low.
Is there any way this could be normal- that maybe one more round
of shimming would solve the problem?
o Were there significant design changes made to the suspension cross-member
between MK2’s and S-types? I know the upright is different, but I’m
wondering if what I might need is a spring longer than either car
required. Specifically, are the S-type shock towers shorter.
o I got the following info from another jag-lover regarding his new
S-type springs:
free length is 14-5/8", the outside diameter of the
coil is 5-3/8", and the cross sectional diameter is 11/16"
Is this info documented in a parts manual somewhere? The missing
piece of data is: #of coils, which I'll actually be able to get
from my bad ones next time they're out.
o Were S-type springs designed to be softer (plusher ride) than the
MK2 springs? The ones I have do seem softer… though if they’re
bum springs that could explain it.
o Anybody know a current reasonable source for S-type springs?
I’m close to just giving up and having a custom set made again. If I
go this route, I think I’ll want springs stiffer than stock, especially
if stock S-type springs are softer than MK1/MK2 springs. Anybody care
to wager a guess on what would be a good spring? Should I go for thicker
wire, or just reduce the number of coils? A stiffer spring will require
shorter free-length too… right? (so “loaded” neutral length is the same)
Would 1000lbs be a good guess as to how much weight each front wheel supports
(on a 4.2L Mk1). Anybody know this number for a 3.8L MK2- I bet I’m just
about the same.
Maybe I’ll hazard a straw-man calculation you experts can tear apart.
I think it was John Mcdonagh who first told me MK2 racers try to use
the 420 uprights to get the bigger brakes… what to they typically use
for front springs? I think somebody even mentioned using MKX springs in
a MK2- but if that works, then they’re probably too short for my purposes.
Thanks-
Ryan.
From: John McDonagh MCDONAGJ@tui.lincoln.ac.nz
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 11:45:00 +1200
Subject: Re: Mk2 and Two Inch Carb Conversion
My 2 inch carbs came complete with the starter carb fitted to the
front one - they were off an early series 1 XJ. I did not even adjust
the starter carb and the car always starts great and runs quite well
when cold, although I always switch the starting carb off manually
rather than waiting for the thermostat to activate.
The XJ starting carb looks exactly the same as the one on the Mark 2
1 3/4 inch carbs so I presume you could swap them over if you needed
to but I am not sure.
John McDonagh
Department of Accounting Finance and Property Studies
Lincoln University
Christchurch
New Zealand
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 17:59:10 -0700
Subject: Re: stalling problem
Ted,
Put one quart of trans fluid in and see what happens. Be sure to let me know
what you find!
Ted Arnold wrote:
I have a '91 XJ40 that’s doing a strange thing. Maybe someone can help.
The engine seems to hesitate when braking to a stop. The car almost stalls
out but about half the time almost stalls out but then recovers. The faster
the stop the stronger the hesitation. Yesterday, after a stop and stall, my
fuel guage dropped to almost empty (from about a third full) and the “fuel
low” light came on. Also, my “expected range” dropped from 110 miles to 3
miles, again, after I re-started my car. Slowly, over the next 5 miles my
fuel guage returned to 1/3 and my “expected range” returned to around 100
miles. Any suggestions?
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 21:18:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Teflon /nylon washer on oil plug
The copper washers used under the oil pan plug are available in various
sizes for very little cost from chains like Pep Boys. I always keep an
assortment in stock – comes in handy when, after changing the oil on a
Sunday night, things get drippy.
On Fri, 7 Jun 1996, Lauren E. Pratt wrote:
I can see where teflon tape is not the material to use
on oil and gas line threads. But what about when used
as a 3/32 washer under the head of the oil drain plug?I replaced an aluminum washer that was leaking with a
nylon washer several years ago with no oil leaks and no
need to torque to near stripping the threads.I don’t see how a nylon washer under the head of a plug
could cause the same problem as teflon tape screwed in
with the thread, as long as the washer was changed before
it got brittle and cracked. Any one see a problem here?Cheers Lauren
Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 6/7/96
Time: 3:49:45 PMThis message was sent by Chameleon
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 21:24:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: '89/XJ-40 / Troubles in Manhattan
Not in Manhattan, in Queens. Try Albert and Harold’s Auto Service in
Glendale. 718-441-0303. Ask for Harold. They do excellent work, are
great diagnosticians, and really understand complex automobiles.
On Fri, 7 Jun 1996, Tommi Matsubayashi wrote:
I have a Jag in Manhattan. I used to use GEORGE HAUG for all car work, and
was terrific, especially Chinese Eddy gave me various feedback, tips,
stories and experiences. I always enjoyed to put my car in the garage. Old
good days has gone now. GEORGE HAUG disappeared with its British
atmosphere. I wonder where he is now.And I drove my jag to new garage for the usual lube change and NYS
inspection. Later I was told to change 1) all of brake pads and front
rotor, 2) A/C Receiver dryer and high pressure hose, 3) engine gasket. The
total estimation is around USD3,000.-. It is very cheap if I were in
Japan, but I doubted it very much in the States. They didn’t let me drive
out without NYS insepction so I got new four brake pads. It costed me
USD500.00-. The money is an issue, but more or less I need a trustful
garage by all means. (If above economics is quite reasonable in this city,
my sincere aplogogies to the garage. But I will not buy their non-tasteful
attitude)The greatest disappointment was A/C. Before driving to the garage, it was
still working. It was not cold, but still cool. When I picked up my jag,
it was dead and hot air coming from the vent. Also a front brake pad was on
for less than 9,000 miles.Now I am looking for decent garage in the greater manhattan. I would
appreciate it if anyone could help me out on this.Thanks, TM
_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/
_/e$B!!!e(BTommy Matsubayashi at tomofumi@interport.net _/
/ e$B!!!“”“”!!!“”“”!!!e(B/
_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/
From: kboetzer@auspex.com (Ken Boetzer)
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 18:30:25 -0700
Subject: Re: S-type springs
SNIPPAGE of story about sagging.
Questions:
o Looks like I’ve got bad springs. I guess the “bad batch” weren’t
tempered properly and just continue to sag. I have about 1.25"
of shim on one side of my car right now, and it’s still too low.
Is there any way this could be normal- that maybe one more round
of shimming would solve the problem?
Highly unlikely. If the heat treat is out of whack, the metal is in the
plastic deformation stress zone. If that sounds awful to you you’re right.
It will continue to deform untill the metal ruptures. Read SPRING BREAKS,
and this has nothing to do with Ft. Lauderdale. or as the case may
be. Don’t shim it, don’t drive it! Get them out, and send them back!
I wish I had better news. :-(((
Good luck,
Ken Boetzer
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #145
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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 13 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 146
Re: [General] A/C and heater on/off controversy
Re: [General] A/C and heater on/off controversy
Re: Teflon /nylon washer on oil plug
Oil Filters & Steering
seeking new springs
'83 XJ6 A/C woes… (Help!)
Re: stalling problem
Re: Oil Filters & Steering
Re: Oil Filters & Steering
re: Electrical radio aerial XJ.
Bargain XJS
HS 8 carbs for sale
Drove it…
Re: [General] A/C and heater on/off controversy
North Cape Challenge web-pages updated!
Webers and Gas-flowed heads for non-HE V12s
Re: North Cape Challenge web-pages updated!
RE: North Cape Challenge web-pages updated!
Re: Oil Filters & Steering
AC relay broken?
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 21:50:50 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [General] A/C and heater on/off controversy
I don’t think that the issue is whether or not to use the A/C, but rather
whether the compressor should be running when it is not needed. This
wastes fuel and reduces power for the following reason: it is much
easier and cheaper for the factory to design a fast-acting automatic climate
control system this way. The designers essentially have two buffers –
one supply of chilled air and another supply of heated air.
Simple blending by varying fan
speeds and opening or closing flaps gives you temperature control, and
fast acting at that. The price you pay is running the compressor when
not needed, and increasing overall heat burden by introducing hot water
under the dash in the summer.
Many automakers used to design automatic climate control systems this
way. Cadillacs are a notorius example. I would expect that more
stringent CAFE rules and low-performing R-134a systems are changing that
- – anyone know how the latest systems operate?
Also, I have found that most heater control valves – stock Jag as well as
garden variety replacements – always flow a little water, even when
closed. That’s why things are always hot under the dash.
So if you want max ‘efficiency’, you’ll add two manual overides: a
switch to interrupt pickup of the compressor clutch, and a positive
interruption of hot water flow. You can then let the automatic system
cycle to its hearts content with little loss of climate control
response to temperature transients. You’ll pick
up a little mileage/power in winter, and a little better A/C performance
in summer.
On Mon, 10 Jun 1996, tony goodall wrote:
At 17:30 09/06/96 +0100, Kirby Palm wrote:
Before you guys get all excited about disconnecting the compressor and
gaining big MPG, let me point out that tests on several cars have reportedly
shown they get better fuel economy with the A/C on and the windows shut than
with the A/C off and the windows open. Take with whatever grain of salt you
choose.I remember something about this too -
the increase in drag factor with open windows is way more than the HP that the
AC usesAlso - with the AC on, you need a lower fan setting, the alternator has less
load!
(must save a small amount of HP)In my xj40, at most I save 1mpg with the AC off
If the only consideration is fuel consumption, then get a 1 litre car, or a
diesel
or cut the exhaust off, that “wastes” HP as welltony
Dr. A. Goodall http://www.u-net.com/~goodall/
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 22:20:05 -0400
Subject: Re: [General] A/C and heater on/off controversy
John Napoli:
I don’t think that the issue is whether or not to use the A/C, but rather
whether the compressor should be running when it is not needed. This
wastes fuel and reduces power for the following reason: it is much
easier and cheaper for the factory to design a fast-acting automatic climate
control system this way. The designers essentially have two buffers –
one supply of chilled air and another supply of heated air.Simple blending by varying fan
speeds and opening or closing flaps gives you temperature control, and
fast acting at that. The price you pay is running the compressor when
not needed, and increasing overall heat burden by introducing hot water
under the dash in the summer.
Good logic based on an incorrect understanding of the operation of the
system. What is described is called a hot deck/cold deck system, and they
do exist – but that’s not what the Jaguar has. The Jag is a sequential
system wherein all air goes through the evaporator first, and then either
goes through or bypasses the heater core. The purpose is to dehumidify the
air, regardless of what temperature is called for. A quick-responding
control is included, and is a requirement, but that isn’t the reason for the
design.
If the air coming into the system is colder than 55 or so, the compressor
isn’t needed – and is shut off. Between 55 and 75, it IS needed to
dehumidify, but there is very little load on it, so it takes little power.
Above 75, it’s more heavily loaded and the heater is not needed, so the
heater core is shut off by the vacuum-operated valve. Cooling temperature
control is by varying fan speed, not reheat.
If you shut off the compressor between 55 and 75, you will get correct
temperature control but higher humidity inside. Not only is this less
comfortable, but it could also promote mold growth in the leather. Not good.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 22:20:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Teflon /nylon washer on oil plug
John Napoli:
The copper washers used under the oil pan plug are available in various
sizes for very little cost from chains like Pep Boys. I always keep an
assortment in stock – comes in handy when, after changing the oil on a
Sunday night, things get drippy.
If things get drippy AFTER you changed the oil, you’ve got a problem. You
can’t replace that damned washer without draining all the brand new oil,
which is a PITA. Better to have a GOOD washer in there to begin with – and
my vote would NOT be a copper washer, new or not. Fiber washers work for
me, and I suspect the described metal washers with rubber insert would be
even better.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: ajbeale@squirrel.com.au (A.J. Beale)
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 12:49:33 -0700
Subject: Oil Filters & Steering
My Jag parts supplier has told me that, about 2 years ago, Jaguar changed to
a single oil filter for XJ6 S2 & S3, XJ12 and XJ40. The part number is EBC
9658 and this is an anti-drain filter, which minimises the pressurise
build-up time on start up, especially where the filter is mounted inclined
downward. He also tells me that he will not sell other than the genuine
Jaguar steering rack mounting bushes for the XJ6, because the stiffer after
market bushes have no give and the mounting stanchions crack. I believe
that this bloke knows what he is talking about and owners considering using
the stiffer bushes should be well aware of the possible danger.
Now a question. I recently changed the power steering fluid on my XJ40 for
the first time since I bought the car about 15 months ago. The fluid, which
should be ATF was black. What could possibly have been put in the fluid and
why?? Alan.
From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 23:03:22 -0400
Subject: seeking new springs
I’m looking for some new springs for my XJS. The cat is crouching lower and
lower and occasionaly the bottom hits bumps.
Any one know a good source?
I’m not looking for anything fancy or racy.
Julian Mullaney
From: Denny Alford alforkd@occ-uky.campus.mci.net
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 23:55:14 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: '83 XJ6 A/C woes… (Help!)
My '83 XJ6 has developed a problem with the air conditioning system. The
symptoms are as follows;
System had been working perfectly, cooling well.
Fan works on High Speed, but only blows heated air.
Servo doesn’t make any noise when adjusting the temperature control, and
there is no duct switching activity.
Compressor is engaging, coolant lines feel hot and cold respectively.
Any suggestions would be most appreciated.
Denny Alford
'83 XJ6
From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 23:55:21 -0700
Subject: Re: stalling problem
Uhhh, in the trans please.
Michael P. Neal wrote:
Ted,
Put one quart of trans fluid in and see what happens. Be sure to let me know
what you find!Ted Arnold wrote:
I have a '91 XJ40 that’s doing a strange thing. Maybe someone can help.
The engine seems to hesitate when braking to a stop. The car almost stalls
out but about half the time almost stalls out but then recovers. The faster
the stop the stronger the hesitation. Yesterday, after a stop and stall, my
fuel guage dropped to almost empty (from about a third full) and the “fuel
low” light came on. Also, my “expected range” dropped from 110 miles to 3
miles, again, after I re-started my car. Slowly, over the next 5 miles my
fuel guage returned to 1/3 and my “expected range” returned to around 100
miles. Any suggestions?
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 03:00:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil Filters & Steering
A.J. Beale:
My Jag parts supplier has told me that, about 2 years ago, Jaguar changed to
a single oil filter for XJ6 S2 & S3, XJ12 and XJ40. The part number is EBC
9658 and this is an anti-drain filter, which minimises the pressurise
build-up time on start up, especially where the filter is mounted inclined
downward.
I believe ALL modern cartridge filters are anti-drain type. What is
unusual about these?
He also tells me that he will not sell other than the genuine
Jaguar steering rack mounting bushes for the XJ6, because the stiffer after
market bushes have no give and the mounting stanchions crack. I believe
that this bloke knows what he is talking about and owners considering using
the stiffer bushes should be well aware of the possible danger.
Nonsense. If anything, the stiffer bushes REDUCE the loads on the
stanchions. With the aftermarket bushes, the forces are uniformly
distributed among all three mounts, and over the entire circumference of
each mount. With the stock mounts, the rack freely moves side to side until
it whacks into one stanchion or another.
It is, of course, possible to incorrectly shim the aftermarket mounts,
causing a bad stress situation. But even moderate care in reassembly should
prevent any problems.
Anyone who has driven a car fitted with the aftermarket bushings knows why
Jaguar dealers and mechanics will come up with excuse after excuse to sell
their stock crap. What is NOT apparent is why Jaguar has never fixed the
design.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 23:59:54 -0700
Subject: Re: Oil Filters & Steering
The info on the filter is correct. I don’t believe the bit about the rack bushings for a second. I’
ve seen more than enough aftermarket bushing installations to know that there isn’t a problem. The ATF was
probably burnt and the original fluid from lack of servicing.
A.J. Beale wrote:
My Jag parts supplier has told me that, about 2 years ago, Jaguar changed to
a single oil filter for XJ6 S2 & S3, XJ12 and XJ40. The part number is EBC
9658 and this is an anti-drain filter, which minimises the pressurise
build-up time on start up, especially where the filter is mounted inclined
downward. He also tells me that he will not sell other than the genuine
Jaguar steering rack mounting bushes for the XJ6, because the stiffer after
market bushes have no give and the mounting stanchions crack. I believe
that this bloke knows what he is talking about and owners considering using
the stiffer bushes should be well aware of the possible danger.
Now a question. I recently changed the power steering fluid on my XJ40 for
the first time since I bought the car about 15 months ago. The fluid, which
should be ATF was black. What could possibly have been put in the fluid and
why?? Alan.
From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 12:42:42 -0700
Subject: re: Electrical radio aerial XJ.
Hi all,
I seem to remember some discussion on wether or not it was possible to get parts
for the original electrically operated aerial for XJ.
A local fellow Jaggee has made his el.ant. redundant because of a broken
nylon/wire cord. Does anyone on the list know where to get parts?
Thank you.
Baard
______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no
From: “Martin Robert Fooks, WWIS” mfooks@postiss.netherlands.ncr.com
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 96 10:56:00 PDT
Subject: Bargain XJS
Gerald,
DON’T touch car A with a barge pole!!! (Unless of course, all you want
is the engine and interior).
My XJ had been re-sprayed from it’s original white to black in 1991. I
could see some rust coming through in a couple of places when I bought it
in 1993, but foolishly thought to myself that the PO must have done the
job properly (I mean, who would bodge a Jag?)
When I took the car off the road for the restoration I ended up replacing
nearly every body panel on the whole car (The bodyshop who did the custom
paint job for me would quite rightly not spray it over anything less than
100% good metal). I think that the fact that you say the engine bay is
tatty is a good indication that this re-spray was done at minimum cost to
hide something bad.
It also seems to be a rule that if the PO let the bodywork get in a bad
state, then the mechanics were probably neglected too.
I would go for car B out of the 2. I would also get the engine noise
looked at a.s.a.p. and if it were found to be terminal, then you could do
worse than offer $3,000 for car A and use it as a donor.
Martin R. Fooks
Tel (Work) : +31 (0)20 651 2698
Tel (Home) : +31 (0)20 41 91 731
SMTP: Martin.Fooks@Netherlands.NCR.COM[PARA]Martin_Fooks@MSN.COM[PARA]
URL: //www.cris.com/~mrfooks
“Time’s fun when you’re having flies!”
Kermit the Frog
From: HealeyDoc@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 13:51:21 -0400
Subject: HS 8 carbs for sale
We have for sale a set of HS 8 carbs for sale they fit early XJ6’s , Bentley,
and Rolls Royce. They need rebuilt. If you are interested please contact
me.
Healey Doc@aol.com
209-948-8767
From: Curt Onstott onstottc@ucs.orst.edu
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 10:56:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Drove it…
I got to drive my first Jaguar last night. As some of you may have read,
I purchased a 75 XJ6 last year for 150.00. The engine and transmission
were out of the car and the engine was dissasembled. I’ve spent all of my
free time since March rebuilding the engine and putting it back into the
car.
Last night, I got all of the coolant leaks plugged up and took it for a
spin. It was AWESOME!! I couldn’t sleep! Now, I have one last leak to
cure. (I messed up the cam cover gasket.)
- -To err is human. To err faster and more efficiently requires a computer.-
Curt Onstott - Windows/DOS/PC Specialist - Information Services - Oregon
State University. - (541) 737-1483 - Office: Kerr 217
From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 20:43:05 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: [General] A/C and heater on/off controversy
On Tue, 11 Jun 1996, Kirby Palm wrote:
If you shut off the compressor between 55 and 75, you will get correct
temperature control but higher humidity inside. Not only is this less
comfortable, but it could also promote mold growth in the leather. Not good.
OK, this settles it. I was primarily looking for better performance, but
I’m not sacrificing my leather.
And guys, I live in Norway where petrol/gas costs $1.40 per liter. I know
about increased drag from lowered windows and I sure as hell didn’t buy a
Jaguar because of good mileage.
Gunnar
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar XJ6 4.2 Sovereign
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | Vicki who? What .sig virus?
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 22:23:20 +0200
Subject: North Cape Challenge web-pages updated!
Just a quick note to remind interested parties that the North
Cape Challenge, running from Oslo, Norway, to the North Cape,
is alive and kicking on the WWW. Days 0-3 are in place, day
4 in a few hours time.
The last two days have seen the teams brave mountain passes,
endure torrential rain, bask in the sun and go mental at the
race track. Images of all contestants, including Healeys,
Jaguars, Mercedes’, Porsches, Triumph, MGC and Gordon Keeble
(Wicked car!) are available for the viewing of discerning
gentlemen worldwide.
Thanks for all the interest shown so far, it makes all the
work and the late nights (2 am every night so far…) worth
the effort
Nick, intrepid reporter and now speed demon
** Follow the North Cape Challenge 1996 every day on the web! **
**** NCC '96 http://www.sn.no/home/moydalus/ ****
From: p.hyslop@utoronto.ca (p.hyslop)
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 17:09:50 -0400
Subject: Webers and Gas-flowed heads for non-HE V12s
In response to my plea for info on the feasibility/advisability
replacing the four standard Strombergs with six 40mm ICD Webers, gas
flowing the heads and installing slightly hotter cams on my '74 V12-XKE,
Mike wrote:
From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 1996 18:21:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Webers and Gas-flowed heads for non-HE V12sRather than all the work to the non-HE engine, have you considered buying a
late model HE engine and installing it instead? I’ve thought about
replacing the engine in my '74 E-Type with a fuel injected 6.0 HE engine.
Put the non-HE on an engine stand as a conversation starter (yeah, that’s
just my spare V-12 . . . .) and enjoy better performance and fuel mileage.
I could always put the original back if I got excited about matching
numbers.Perhaps one of the Chevy-lovers on the list will trade you a 6.0 from his
XJ-S for a late model 350. <just a joke guys! come on now, put the rope
down!>MikeC
Yikes !!!!
Mike, don't you know that enticing an owner of a late model 6.0 HE
engined Jag to dump his/her engine in favour of a Chevy is an indictable
offence (“Conspiracy to commit an indecent act with a Jaguar”) punishable
by lengthy periods of incarceration and permenant confiscation of one’s own
Jaguar!
Peter
'74 V-12 XKE Roadster
From: Kevin Sullivan kevins@borris.khoros.unm.edu
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 15:19:08 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Re: North Cape Challenge web-pages updated!
On Wed, 12 Jun 1996, Nick Johannessen wrote:
Just a quick note to remind interested parties that the North
Cape Challenge, running from Oslo, Norway, to the North Cape,
is alive and kicking on the WWW. Days 0-3 are in place, day
4 in a few hours time.
…
Thanks for all the interest shown so far, it makes all the
work and the late nights (2 am every night so far…) worth
the effortNick, intrepid reporter and now speed demon
** Follow the North Cape Challenge 1996 every day on the web! **
**** NCC '96 http://www.sn.no/home/moydalus/ ****
Way to go, Nick. These pages are very cool and appreciated. It’s nice
to see stuff like this on the web. (The Troll is cool!) Keep up the
good work!
Kevin Sullivan – 1960 MGA kevins@khoral.com
Khoral Research Inc. http://www.khoral.com
Albuquerque NM USA
From: “Gildea, Bill” BGILDEA@extracorp.com
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 17:39:12 -0500
Subject: RE: North Cape Challenge web-pages updated!
To all: Don’t miss this site. It has awesome shots of great marques in
magnificent settings.
To Nick & Kevin: Thanks for the suggestion!
From: Kevin Sullivan[SMTP:kevins@borris.khoros.unm.edu]
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 1996 4:19 PM
To: Nick Johannessen
Cc: jag-lovers@sn.no; british-cars@autox.team.net;
healeys@autox.team.net; triumphs@autox.team.net; mercedes@bga.com;
porschephiles@tta.com
Subject: Re: North Cape Challenge web-pages updated!
On Wed, 12 Jun 1996, Nick Johannessen wrote:
Just a quick note to remind interested parties that the North
Cape Challenge, running from Oslo, Norway, to the North Cape,
is alive and kicking on the WWW. Days 0-3 are in place, day
4 in a few hours time.
…
Thanks for all the interest shown so far, it makes all the
work and the late nights (2 am every night so far…) worth
the effortNick, intrepid reporter and now speed demon
** Follow the North Cape Challenge 1996 every day on the web! **
**** NCC '96 http://www.sn.no/home/moydalus/ ****
Way to go, Nick. These pages are very cool and appreciated. It’s nice
to see stuff like this on the web. (The Troll is cool!) Keep up the
good work!
Kevin Sullivan – 1960 MGA kevins@khoral.com
Khoral Research Inc. http://www.khoral.com
Albuquerque NM USA
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 11:38:10 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: Oil Filters & Steering
The info on the filter is correct. I don’t believe the bit about the rack bushings for a second. I’
ve seen more than enough aftermarket bushing installations to know that there isn’t a problem. The ATF was
probably burnt and the original fluid from lack of servicing.
Is the same true for the Jaguar “sport packs bushing” ( == crap ) ?
-
- Matthias
From: Quang Ngo qlogic!ngo@netcom.com
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 12:56:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: AC relay broken?
Hello everyone,
My 89 XJ40 recently has some problem with the AC. Sometimes when I turn the
AC on I only hear a click sound but the light on the AC interface doesn’t
come on. If I leave it for 30 minutes or so it will be on by itself. But
by then my brain dries since Fresno is quite hot (105F). When I’m lucky
it comes right on when I turn it on. I notice that it doesn’t matter
whether it’s in auto or manual mode. Could this be a relay problem? How
come I hear a click sound everytime I turn it on? Perhaps, there is more
than one relay, and the relay (or whatever it is) that measures the
temperature is broken? Could someone give me some tips on this so I can
diagnose it.
Thanks,
- -Quang (ngo@qlogic.com)
89 XJ40 (black)
89 MBX 300E (red)
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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 13 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 147
Odometer in Miles
Home Page Revisions
Travel
Re: Oil Filters & Steering
Re: Teflon /nylon washer on oil plug
Re: [General] A/C and heater on/off controversy
Re: '88 XJ40 Front Suspension
Re: [General] A/C and heater on/off controversy
XJ6 Air Flow Meter, etc
Servicing Power Steering (SIII XJ6)
RE: seeking new springs
jag for sale
XJ6 Book, Health report on mine, Oil pressure
XJ40 - Oil Pressure Again
Re: XJ6 Book, Health report on mine, Oil pressure [all models]
Re: 1985 XJS Question?
Re: [General] A/C and heater on/off controversy
Re: XJ40 - Oil Pressure Again
Re: Proper Temp for XJ-6 SIII
From: Quang Ngo qlogic!ngo@netcom.com
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 12:52:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Odometer in Miles
Hello everyone,
My 89 XJ40’s odometer shows numbers in kilometers. Is this normal all this
model? How do I change it to miles? There is a switch on the VCM interface
but that doesn’t do the job. I thought I’ve been driving my car for 30,000
miles already, but actually that is in kilometers, which is about 14,000
miles.
- -Quang (ngo@qlogic.com)
89 XJ40 (black)
89 MBZ 300E (red)
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 19:52:26 -0400
Subject: Home Page Revisions
For the entertainment and edification of all jag-lovers and others out
there, I have added a treatise on “Proper Jaguar Etiquette” to my WWW site.
Start at:
http://gcn.scri.fsu.edu/~palmk
and proceed to the Jaguar page.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 19:52:28 -0400
Subject: Travel
Well, I’m outta here. I will be unsubscribing for the duration of my
Australia/NZ trip, rather than letting GCN get all clogged up with messages.
I’ll be resubscribing when I get back, and then I’ll get to figure out how
to look at the archives!
For those of you in NZ and Australia: Look out, here I come! For the rest
of you: see you in late July!
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: ajbeale@squirrel.com.au (A.J. Beale)
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 10:14:37 -0700
Subject: Re: Oil Filters & Steering
This mainly replies to Kirby’s comments, but thanks also to others who
responded. As regards the black power steering fluid, I doubt that it was
just old age - seemed more like colloidal graphite had been added, like we
used to do to almost everything - way back that is. I have now changed the
fluid 4 times but it is still grey. Will change it a couple more times.
Now to the other points.
I believe ALL modern cartridge filters are anti-drain type. What is
unusual about these?
Nothing, if you buy a reputable brand, but I understand that some of the
cheapies may not be.
Jaguar steering rack mounting bushes for the XJ6, because the stiffer
after market >>bushes have no give and the mounting stanchions crack.
Nonsense. If anything, the stiffer bushes REDUCE the loads on the stanchions.
The information and recommendation comes from the repair shop where the
cracks are rewelded. They say that a complete steering failure is possible.
With the aftermarket bushes, the forces are uniformly distributed among
all three >mounts, and over the entire circumference of each mount. With
the stock mounts, >the rack freely moves side to side until it whacks into
one stanchion or another.
I was shown one of the steering assemblies in the spares shop (not as
installed) but I understand that the flanges of the flanged (top hat)
mounting bushes allow a small lateral movement. If harder bushes replace
these, there is an increased risk of applying stresses with the fixation
bolts. Also, if the small amount of “give” is removed in this assembly,
which is subject to rapid stress changes, including stress reversals, the
possibility of fatigue failure is considerably increased. It IS the
assemblies with the stiff replacement bushes which are failing and it is NOT
Jaguar who are complaining. Why should they - they sell more steering units
this way. Alan
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 20:13:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Teflon /nylon washer on oil plug
The point is to keep some in stoc!
On Tue, 11 Jun 1996, Kirby Palm wrote:
John Napoli:
The copper washers used under the oil pan plug are available in various
sizes for very little cost from chains like Pep Boys. I always keep an
assortment in stock – comes in handy when, after changing the oil on a
Sunday night, things get drippy.If things get drippy AFTER you changed the oil, you’ve got a problem. You
can’t replace that damned washer without draining all the brand new oil,
which is a PITA. Better to have a GOOD washer in there to begin with – and
my vote would NOT be a copper washer, new or not. Fiber washers work for
me, and I suspect the described metal washers with rubber insert would be
even better.-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | -- Palm's Postulate
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 20:27:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [General] A/C and heater on/off controversy
We don’t all live with Florida’s humidity, Kirby!
Regardless of whether the air flow is in series or parallel, the fact
remains that it is being managed by an excess of capacity at each end.
Is this not so? ‘Bang-bang’ control systems are pretty easy to produce.
The Jag climate control – or at least the one in my old car – does not
provide the operator with enough control options: can you manually
invoke recirculation? And as you have pointed out several times, the Jag
intentionally runs the compressor (all the time?) to do things like cool
the returning fuel.
IMHO, the Jag climate control is not designed as well as one might
expect. It wastes power and doesn’t provide enough control options. I
am modifying mine to correct these deficiencies and will report on
results when completed.
On Tue, 11 Jun 1996, Kirby Palm wrote:
John Napoli:
I don’t think that the issue is whether or not to use the A/C, but rather
whether the compressor should be running when it is not needed. This
wastes fuel and reduces power for the following reason: it is much
easier and cheaper for the factory to design a fast-acting automatic climate
control system this way. The designers essentially have two buffers –
one supply of chilled air and another supply of heated air.Simple blending by varying fan
speeds and opening or closing flaps gives you temperature control, and
fast acting at that. The price you pay is running the compressor when
not needed, and increasing overall heat burden by introducing hot water
under the dash in the summer.Good logic based on an incorrect understanding of the operation of the
system. What is described is called a hot deck/cold deck system, and they
do exist – but that’s not what the Jaguar has. The Jag is a sequential
system wherein all air goes through the evaporator first, and then either
goes through or bypasses the heater core. The purpose is to dehumidify the
air, regardless of what temperature is called for. A quick-responding
control is included, and is a requirement, but that isn’t the reason for the
design.If the air coming into the system is colder than 55 or so, the compressor
isn’t needed – and is shut off. Between 55 and 75, it IS needed to
dehumidify, but there is very little load on it, so it takes little power.
Above 75, it’s more heavily loaded and the heater is not needed, so the
heater core is shut off by the vacuum-operated valve. Cooling temperature
control is by varying fan speed, not reheat.If you shut off the compressor between 55 and 75, you will get correct
temperature control but higher humidity inside. Not only is this less
comfortable, but it could also promote mold growth in the leather. Not good.-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | -- Palm's Postulate
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 17:48:10 -0700
Subject: Re: '88 XJ40 Front Suspension
The internal parts of the shock can separate and cause the knocking
noise. First try tightening the subframe and steering rack, they tend
to loosen up about this time.
Richard Shehab wrote:
My '88 XJ40 has 105,000 miles. When I am driving on a bumpy surface the
left (drivers side) front suspension seems to “bottom-out”. The front
shocks seem fine and I just had new upper bushings put on them. The
bushings improved the ride but there is still a “knock” when I hit a bump,
especially when making a right hand turn.It seems to happen more when I’m driving slower than when I’m going faster.
Does anybody have an idea what might be causing this problem?
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 21:10:54 -0400
Subject: Re: [General] A/C and heater on/off controversy
John Napoli:
We don’t all live with Florida’s humidity, Kirby!
True. But humidity is more often a problem than many people realize.
Inside a closed automobile, the respiration of the occupants will raise the
RH significantly in a fairly short time – just ask anybody who’s had the
windows fog over in a drive-in movie. If the outdoor air is REALLY dry,
keeping lots flowing through will keep things dry enough. But in this case,
the A/C compressor will either be off or be running very lightly loaded anyway.
Regardless of whether the air flow is in series or parallel, the fact
remains that it is being managed by an excess of capacity at each end.
Is this not so?
No, it is not so.
‘Bang-bang’ control systems are pretty easy to produce.
Actually, they are quite expensive! It would have been MUCH cheaper to just
have a thermostat turn the compressor on and off and open and close the
heater valve.
The Jag climate control – or at least the one in my old car – does not
provide the operator with enough control options: can you manually
invoke recirculation?
Now, THIS complaint I agree with! I, for one, would love to be able to turn
the system OFF and just have the fan blow outdoor air through.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: scoleman@pcl.net (Steve Coleman)
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 20:14:53 -0500
Subject: XJ6 Air Flow Meter, etc
I am new to this group, but not especially new to Jaguar. My first was a red '85 XJS acquired
when it was five years old. I got the shop manual and gradually overcame my intimidation on
gazing upon the engine compartment and started doing some minor work–hose changes, sparks
plugs, idle speed, throttle adjustment. Although I am ashamed to admit it, I succumbed to my
wife’s objections that it was not a “family man’s car,” but at least I swapped it for an '89
XJ40. My wife liked this one so much that she got an '88 XJ40–sadly totalled a couple weeks
ago at the hands of a teenager turning left directly into her path. This will in all
likelihood be replaced by a more recent model of the same.
I, however, realized that my true dream car was the Series III XJ6, and a couple of months ago
I swapped my '89 XJ40 for an '87 model. I got the shop manual, found a lot of details
reminiscent of the XJS–started fixing several of the minor flaws. When I took it to get the
windows tinted, I found that some tampering had been done to the fuel system. The shop
complained that while they worked on it, engine off but electrical system on to run the heater
fan, a puddle of gasoline developed under the engine. Sure enough, there was a slow leak at
the hose to the cold start injector, fixed simply by tightening the clamp. However, the fuel
pump ran continuously with ignition switched to “on”. The handbook informed me that this was
not supposed to be the case, that is, the fuel pump was to be actuated initially by engaging
the starter and then maintained by air flow through the air meter. When I opened up the air
flow meter, I saw that the fuel pump switch contacts were continously closed. I fixed this by
bending them out slightly. My concern at this point is that the prior tampering with the air
flow meter and my subsequent correction have disturbed the proper air-fuel mixture. Is there
any way to check or fix this short of using a CO meter? There is no obvious flaw in
performance. Mileage varies–as much as 24 MPG at 50 MPH, AC off, but it drops off drastically
at higher speeds–more like 18 MPG at 75 MPH.
Also some vibration problems with the rear brakes. PO told me they had been recently redone,
and new rotors were confirmed by the local Goodyear shop, but at least one appears to be warped
or off center. I understand that removal of the rear rotors is a real PITA and I will probably
put this one off indefinitely, unless anyone has any suggestions.
Steve Coleman
SIII XJ6 and loving it
From: sfisher@sola.com.au (Scott Fisher)
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 96 20:29 CST
Subject: Servicing Power Steering (SIII XJ6)
Having just noticed a post about black power steering fluid, this
struck me as a little discussed topic on the list.
So what is the recommended servide procedure and interval for the
power steering system on a SIII XJ6 (ar any Jaguar for that matter)?
Regards Scott.
Scott Fisher [sfisher@sola.com.au] PH: (08)329-28341.
_--_|\ N
SOLA Optical / \ W + E
International Holdings Research Center _.–*_/ S
Adelaide, South Australia v
Joy is a Jaguar XJ6 with a flat battery, a blown oil seal and an unsympathetic
wife, 9km outside of a small remote town, 3:15am on a cold wet winters morning.
From: Tony Watts amw@maths.uq.oz.au
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 12:13:42 +1000
Subject: RE: seeking new springs
I’m looking for some new springs for my XJS. The cat is crouching lower and
lower and occasionaly the bottom hits bumps.
Any one know a good source?
I’m not looking for anything fancy or racy.
Julian Mullaney
Would it be sensible to get the old springs reset?
Tony Watts
From: RDunlap684@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 23:42:52 -0400
Subject: jag for sale
HEY ALL YOU JAG LOVERS; I’VE GOT THE PERFECT CAR FOR YOUR SPOUSE.OR FRIEND;
IT’ S A 1969 XKE 2+2. SIGNAL RED/BLACK, CONCOURS CONDITION, 64K MILES, 97+
JCNA WINNER, SAME OWNER FOR THE PAST 15 YEARS HERE IN THE ROCKEY MTN. AREA.
WE ARE RETIRING TO THE MTNS. AND NEED TO SELL THIS CAR. I’AM ASKING $20,000
BUT WOULD CONSIDER THE BEST OFFER, OR TRADE FOR A LATE MODEL XJ-6. THIS CAR
HAS A LOT OF HISTORY AND HAS BEEN PAMPERED, YET DROVE HARD, IT,S NAME IN THE
RMJC CLUB IS “BIG RED”. IT IS IN GREAT SHAPE AND HAVE A LOT OF
IMPROVEMENTS, NEW PAINT, TYRES, T-BARS, HIDES ETC.
GIVE ME A CALL @ 303-451-6805 OR RDUNLAP@AOL.COM.
ED DUNLAP
1200 W.104TH PL.
NORTHGLENN CO. 80234-3803
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 21:51:43 -0500
Subject: XJ6 Book, Health report on mine, Oil pressure
The XJ6 book is running late. I was a bit optomistic when I proposed June
30th as the date or revelation. I hadnt planned on three weeks of surgery
and recovery!
Took my XJ6 to the only Certified Jaguar mechanic in Austin to get a full
health report. At 113,948 miles it requires only front radius arm bushes,
adjustment of the lower ball joints, alignnment, outboard diff seals, and
one of the half shaft U joints is installed backwards (cant grease it). All
of which my man said we could wait on and do over a several month period.
(My wife has taken a new job where she will be putting 500 miles a week on
the car so I have started a monthly schedule to get the car to him for
review and repair as needed)
I believe the good report is the result of my occasional racing. I keep the
car in top shape so that I won’t have any surprises at 120MPH. The cost of
keeping it in good shape is no more than fixing it when it is neglected and
is probably less. The result is I have a car that is 14 years old and has
114K miles on it that I still trust for daily transportation to the tune of
100 miles a day. AND, it has whipped the likes of Ferraris at Texas World
Speedway which is worth the cost of the maintenance if I never drove in on
the street!!
I have just replaced the oil pressure guage sender on my car with a Jag
replacement. For as long as I have owned this car the pressure was 40PSI at
cruise and 20PSI at idle. Until it started giving intermitent readings in
the last two months. Now it is 60PSI at cruise and 50PSI at idle. This
makes sense since the bypass pressure valve relieves at 60PSI.
So now I am wondering if some of the low oil pressures that some of us have
experienced could not be solved with a new sender for the guage. At $75 and
15 minutes (if the car is cold) it is the easiest and cheapest of the fixes
and so probably should be the first one tried.
Jim
“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil
From: “Shelly Bolden, Ext. 4770” bolden@BBN.COM
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 96 23:44:43 EDT
Subject: XJ40 - Oil Pressure Again
My 90 (73,000 miles) XJ40 has not used any oil since I have had the car ( 2
years now). A few weeks ago, my husband changed the oil as usual and
everything was normal for awhile, then I started seeing the pressure drop.
The normal conditions were 40PSI at idle and about 60PSI during normal driving.
Sunday, the car was suddenly 2 quarts low, we topped it off. Today, as I
parked, the oil indicator came on and PSI dropped to zero. I checked the oil
and it was still OK. Leaving the office, I had to keep a foot on the brake
and a foot on the gas to keep the pressure up when coming to a stop. I then
drove to the dealer, and the maintenance rep. told me it could be the sensor
or oil pump. I have an appointment for next Tuesday.
Has anyone else seen this condition or have ideas for it’s cause? I’d like to
have some knowwledge to compare against the dealers recommendation Tuesday.
Shelly
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 13 Jun 96 18:19:49
Subject: Re: XJ6 Book, Health report on mine, Oil pressure [all models]
Jim Isbell :
So now I am wondering if some of the low oil pressures that some of us have
experienced could not be solved with a new sender for the guage. At $75 and
15 minutes (if the car is cold) it is the easiest and cheapest of the fixes
and so probably should be the first one tried.
I’d see it as one point to check, rather than a routine replacement (“if it
ain’t broke, don’t spend 75 bucks on it”). And I never “try fixes”, I determine
which component is faulty and then repair or replace that (fine, arrogant last
words, no?).
As you know, the oil pressure will vary with engine revs up to somewhere in the
range 1200-2000 rpm when hot, then come to a steady reading as the relief valve
pops. If this steady reading is around 55-65 psi (this is not a precision
instrument), the gauge and the relief valve can both be presumed good. If the
steady reading is very low or erratic, the gauge or relief valve could be
faulty - and I’d check the relief valve first, because if it’s faulty, you
could have a $eriou$ problem (especially if the idiot light comes on) whilst a
faulty gauge is merely an inconvenience.
If the pressure goes very high and doesn’t seem to be limited, care is
indicated again - either the gauge is faulty or the relief valve blocked.
Again, I’d check the relief valve first because excessive pressure could
conceivably bur$t a seal somewhere and lose the oil.
If the blow-off pressure is abnormal and the relief valve checks out OK -
that’s when I’d test the oil pressure sender. NB test, not routinely replace,
because as I’ve preached before, 99% of my electrical troubles have been
wiring, not components - and the fault could still be in the indicator.
-
- Jan
From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 03:34:21 -0400
Subject: Re: 1985 XJS Question?
Jan Wikstroem writes:
JW> As for the plug actually coming apart, this can only be a
JW> manufacturing fault - over-tightening in an aluminium head would
JW> strip the aluminium thread long before the plug could be even
JW> strained - and your lawyer should have a little chat with Champion.
I once broke off a spark plug in an Alfa Romeo engine due to overtorquing.
No damage at all was done to the Alfa’s aluminum head though initially I was
sure I’d have to put in a helicoil until I worked up the nerve to open the
hood back up. The remainder of the plug easily screwed out. I’ve never
tried it deliberately, but it’s good design practice to have the plug fail
before the head threads. Remember that the spark plug’s metal portion is
hollow anyway & so it can be deliberately made weaker than the head it’ll be
screwed in to. Yes, I was using a click-type torque wrench at the time, but
I had loaned it out & it’d gotten broken. My only excuse is that I was a lot
younger then & it DID seem like I was having to turn the durn thing unusually
hard to get to the proper torque. Some of us learn about loaning tools & the
virtue of a soft touch the hard way…
-Steve A.
From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 03:34:10 -0400
Subject: Re: [General] A/C and heater on/off controversy
Kirby Palm writes:
KP> If you shut off the compressor between 55 and 75, you will get
KP> correct temperature control but higher humidity inside. Not only is
KP> this less comfortable, but it could also promote mold growth in the
KP> leather. Not good.
Mold growth in the leather? Isn’t that what you get after the AC drains plug
up? I think Kirby got confused on this one and indavertently thought it was
April 1. If this was really a problem, any car that lived in a humid climate
would have the problem since few of us can afford dehumidified garages. Just
rig up a switch to keep the compressor from coming on when you want to run
“heating only” & paint three little water drops on it for that touch of
Jaguar style. Run the compressor occasionally just to keep the system from
leaking its freon.
-Steve A.
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 13 Jun 96 18:36:11
Subject: Re: XJ40 - Oil Pressure Again
The oil light coming on when the gauge drops to zero puts the sender and gauge
in the clear; the light has a separate sensor, and if both agree that the oil
pressure is too low, you can be sure the oil pressure is indeed too low.
That sudden loss of oil would normally indicate a leak - internal if the
exhaust smokes, external if you can see more oil than usual anywhere around the
engine and oil cooler. But having the oil loss stop equally suddenly - if I
read you message correctly - is a mystery, especially if the pressure drops
drastically at the same time. I’d check the oil pressure relief valve first,
because if it sticks open, you’d get the pressure problem, and that’s not an
uncommon thing even if it doesn’t explain the oil loss.
There might be some more unusual cause for the pressure loss, such as some
internal gallery plug deciding to take a holiday, but that wouldn’t explain the
oil loss either. All I can say is, I’d have a really good examination of
engine, oil cooler and exhaust pipes before going to the doctor.
-
- Jan
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 01:09:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Proper Temp for XJ-6 SIII
Larry,
If the cooling system hasn’t been serviced in the last few years
this would be the best place to start. Pull the radiator and have it
rodded out. Have the A/C pressures checked and make sure that the
system isn’t overcharged. While you have the coolant out change the
thermostat to a Jaguar replacement Waxstat Brand, none other. If the
coolant temp sensor for the gauge is original then replace it also.
Flush the block out thoroughly with a cleaning solution. The 105 is a
bit high, I do whatever is necessary to get it down to 95 on a 90-100
degree day at 50 mph cruising speed. Change all hoses that look suspect
and revel in the fact that your cooling system is now serviced properly.
Lawrence Karpman wrote:
My '85 XJ-6 SIII at 90 degrees F outside temp or better is running mid
green at 105 degrees with the air on and 95 degrees with it off. The owners
manual says this is fine. I have been told otherwise. I urgently need your
advice. Please respond asap if you have time.Larry Karpman
Bedford, TX
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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 13 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 148
XJ12 respray
GM40 shift points/steering rack
kroppes secret project.
Jun 14-15, Jaguar/Vintage Day at Lime Rock, Ct
XJ-40 Oil Pressure
XJ40 A/C question
Oil drain plug XJ40
XJ40 Drain Plug
Re: XJ40 - Oil Pressure
Re: [General] A/C and heater on/off controversy
XJ40 A/C question
$75 oil pressure sender or $75 labor.
Re: your mail
Re: XJ-40 Oil Pressure
Re: XJ40 A/C question
Re: XJ40 A/C question
Lead or Bondo
XJ6 SIII oil pressure sender
Re: Bargain XJS Purchase
Ten Worst things on a car
From: Volker Nadenau nadenau@ipers1.e-technik.uni-stuttgart.de
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 10:44:34 +0200 (MST)
Subject: XJ12 respray
Hello,
my 1981 XJ12 SIII came from the factory sprayed in sebring red with black
leather. One of the previous owners resprayed it in dark grey metallic. But
on the boot and bonnet the finish is cracked and very dull. There are also
some rust bubbles around the windscreen and the rear window. The car was
not resprayed very properly, because in the engine compartment are lots of
spots still red.
I am thinking about a total respray, but I have heard about a special type
of varnish, maybe thermoplastic, but I really can not remember, which
was used by Jaguar. People told me that this type of varnish should is
difficult to respray.
Do you have any experience with this special Jaguar varnish.
Any advice appriciated.
Volker
Volker Nadenau Phone: ++49 711 685 7200
University of Stuttgart Fax : ++49 711 685 7143
Institute for Physical Electronics Internet: nadenau@ipers1.e-technik.uni-stuttgart.de
Pfaffenwaldring 47
70569 Stuttgart
Germany
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 11:20:01 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: GM40 shift points/steering rack
I’ve a few questions concerning my XJ-S V12
-
-
- I’ve adjusted the butterflies yesterday (only slightly off)
How should the throttle limit screw bet set, e.g. the screw which limits
the throttle opening on full throttle ? I adjusted it so that it the
limiters on the throttle housing just not touch the housing.
- I’ve adjusted the butterflies yesterday (only slightly off)
-
-
-
- GM400 shift points. I did a little research on shift points, since I
read somewhere that the GM400 would not allow more than 5000 rpm
before shifting. Mine shifts from 1st to 2nd gear at about 5800 rpm
(of course full throttle) Normal ?
- GM400 shift points. I did a little research on shift points, since I
-
-
-
- why is the kickdown switch on this transmission only active in the
‘D’ position ?
- why is the kickdown switch on this transmission only active in the
-
-
-
- I checked the centring of my steering. The workshop book says “remove
grease nipple”. Well, mine has no grease nibble and when I opened it
a little amount of a rather dark fluid came out. (I would think ATF).
Again, is this normal or has the rack an internal leak ? If not, this
would mean grease would be pressed into the ATF ???
[I have a problem with the front wheel adjusting, so I varified that the steering wheel is centered correctly]
- I checked the centring of my steering. The workshop book says “remove
-
-
-
- I’m looking for some part numbers of last XJ-S (I think > 91). They
have some nice plates on the air intakes saying “Jaguar V12” and I
also like the new transmission gear handle (I hope that the correct
word) On the older cars it’s black bakelite, the new ones are black
with some sort of metal fittings at the end.
- I’m looking for some part numbers of last XJ-S (I think > 91). They
-
Kind regards and thanks
-
- Matthias
From: fcb@mi.net (bramston)
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 08:42:52 -0300
Subject: kroppes secret project.
Great pains for battery ventilation?
Great! An electric Jaguar!!!Jumping the gun? Sorry! I couldn’t help myself
From: traver@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 96 08:10:59 EDT
Subject: Jun 14-15, Jaguar/Vintage Day at Lime Rock, Ct
This Friday and Saturday the Jaguar Club of NY is hosting
a couple of days of club racing at Lime Rock Park race track
in Lakeville, Ct (north-west Connecticut).
It's a great weekend, with a very nice bunch of people. The race
track grounds look more like a golf course than race track. The
competition is excellent; especially watching the E Types duel it
out with vintage Aston Martins, Ferarris etc…
The weather forecast looks excellent as well ( low 80s ).
Hope some of you can make it.... Todd
From: PLacey@swri.edu
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 96 7:55:37 CDT
Subject: XJ-40 Oil Pressure
More on XJ-40 oil pressure.
I too have an 1988 XJ-40 with 55,000 miles. Occasionally, the oil pressure
gauge suddenly drops to zero, stays there for a second or two and then
immediatly comes right back. This drop is very sudden, as is the recovery.
This only happens when the car is at idle with the oil hot, so the pressure
is fairly low anyway. The car burns zero oil.
I am assuming it is the pressure sender or some electrical problem, but I
could be wrong. The change in pressure is too sudden to be real? I have
thought about replacing the sender, but this does not appear to be easy to
access.
Paul Lacey
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 08:23:24 -0500
Subject: XJ40 A/C question
The compressor on my '88 XJ40’s a/c is leaking. My local Jag dealer
suggests replacing for about $780 USD. Anyone have experience with this
replacement and any sample costs. Being mechanically challenged, I will
have to pay to have this repaired.
Thanks.
Scott Phillips
From: Martin Grossman martin_g@Oldham.gpsemi.com
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 14:27:23 +0100
Subject: Oil drain plug XJ40
Could some knowledgable person tell me what the exact size of the
engine oil drain plug on an XJ40 is (4.0L if it matters). I’ve been
using a 30mm socket but I don’t think its the correct size and I’d like
to get a new socket anyway.
Cheers
Martin Grossman (XJ40 Daimler 4.0)
GEC Plessey Semiconductors
Oldham
Manchester UK
From: PLacey@swri.edu
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 96 9:40:39 CDT
Subject: XJ40 Drain Plug
I think (from my bad memory) that I use a 30 mm socket for my 3.6 L XJ 40
Paul Lacey
From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 09:54:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: XJ40 - Oil Pressure
If the oil light and guage say there is no pressure
DO NOT DRIVE IT. The fact that your oil leak also
stopped suddenly also indicates loss of pressure.
Your leak was probably from an oil distribution line
or the filter housing or the likes. It is not
very likely at all to be your oil pump due to the
sudden failure. Internal leakage is the probable
cause, like one of the o-rings in the pump supply/
return tubes or the relief valve. Please don’t
drive it.
Thomas E. ALberts
From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 11:02:58 -0400
Subject: Re: [General] A/C and heater on/off controversy
I agree with Kirby on hte mold growth on the leather. I had a terrible mold
problem in my XJS when the heater core leaked slightly. The increased
humidity after the car was shut off caused lots of fungus growth. And this
was a convertible so it even “breathed” more than a coupe.
Julian Mullaney
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 08:23:24 -0500
Subject: XJ40 A/C question
Bzzzzz, my warning buzzer just came on…
<The compressor on my '88 XJ40’s a/c is leaking. My local Jag dealer
<suggests replacing for about $780 USD. Anyone have experience with this
<replacement and any sample costs. Being mechanically challenged, I will
<have to pay to have this repaired.
A rebuilt compressor (most made by GM, I believe) runs around $150. US.
Installation should take no more than two hours, recharge freon, some bucks,
I wonder where they get this $700 figure.
LLoyd - actually, that $150. may be for a new one… -
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 11:12:33 -0500
Subject: $75 oil pressure sender or $75 labor.
I’d see it as one point to check, rather than a routine replacement (“if it
ain’t broke, don’t spend 75 bucks on it”). And I never “try fixes”, I
determine
which component is faulty and then repair or replace that (fine, arrogant last
words, no?).
Come on now, I didnt suggest plain old parts replacement for the sake of
replacement. I assumed that the oil pressure light was not causing a
problem (as mine wasnt) and indicated no loss of oil pressure even though
theguage was showing ZERO and was fluxuating wildly as I had mentioned
earlier.
Also for most people, the cost of finding out what the oil pressure actualy
is (calibrating the instrument) requires taking it to a shop for an Hour of
shop time and half a day going to and from the shop and waiting for the
mechanic to hook up a known good guage to the car. It is cheaper to replace
the sender than to test to see if it needs replacement!!!
Sometimes diagnostics requires “trying fixes” as you call it. “Trying
fixes” can be cheaper than measuring and recording the data. When was the
last time you put a meter on a fuse? Or tested the continuity of a
headlight bulb, or measured the resistance of the plug wires before
replacing them, or did a chemical analysis on the oil before replacing it,
or checked the flow of a radiator with a pail and a stopwatch before
removing it to have it rodded out. If you are doinf these things you are
probably spending your customers money on labor rather than parts.
I for one would rather have a new oil pressure sender for $75 than to have
spent $75 to have the old one checked and left in the car because it was “good”.
Jim
===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"
John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 96 10:04:26 PDT
Subject: Re: your mail
Please do not send me any more unsolicited adverstising in the future.
|
| To all Jaguar Lovers:
|
| Thanks to your support we are being featured today as STARTING POINT’S HOT
| SITE OF THE DAY. You can see us at: http://www.stpt.com. In celebration we
| are offering TREMENDOUS DISCOUNTS. Please check us out and let us know what
| you think.
|
| Please remember that if you miss us today, you can always “check out” our
| location at: http://shop-utopia.com/artistsalley
|
| Thanks again,
|
| Paul
|
|
Roger Peng
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 10:04:26 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ-40 Oil Pressure
PLacey@swri.edu wrote:
This is probably the original sender that is causing this. XJ40s
rarely have oil pressure problems. The early sender was not correct
for the car and would read near 80 psi at 2500 rpm. Over time it would
drop to 60-70. There is a new updated sensor, get it from Jaguar, I
doubt if any of the aftermarket places have it. It is very difficult to
replace, plan on leaving some skin behind.
More on XJ-40 oil pressure.
I too have an 1988 XJ-40 with 55,000 miles. Occasionally, the oil pressure
gauge suddenly drops to zero, stays there for a second or two and then
immediatly comes right back. This drop is very sudden, as is the recovery.
This only happens when the car is at idle with the oil hot, so the pressure
is fairly low anyway. The car burns zero oil.I am assuming it is the pressure sender or some electrical problem, but I
could be wrong. The change in pressure is too sudden to be real? I have
thought about replacing the sender, but this does not appear to be easy to
access.Paul Lacey
From: HDR64@aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 13:09:37 -0400
Subject: Re: XJ40 A/C question
I do not believe the XJ40 88 a/c compressor is made by GM.(the cheaper priced
units). It is most likely a Sanden unit which is not a common unit (has a
special “head”) and is unique I believe to Jaguar applications…unless it
fits Range Rover perhaps.
If it is Sanden, the least expensive route is to purchase a remanufactured
unit or have the old unit rebuilt.
Regards,
Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 10:07:10 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ40 A/C question
Here comes the model police!!!
The XJ40 compressor is not a GM type. It is a very expensive Japanese
unit. KEEP you models straight please!!!
Scott W. Phillips wrote:
Bzzzzz, my warning buzzer just came on…
<The compressor on my '88 XJ40’s a/c is leaking. My local Jag dealer
<suggests replacing for about $780 USD. Anyone have experience with this
<replacement and any sample costs. Being mechanically challenged, I will
<have to pay to have this repaired.A rebuilt compressor (most made by GM, I believe) runs around $150. US.
Installation should take no more than two hours, recharge freon, some bucks,
I wonder where they get this $700 figure.
LLoyd - actually, that $150. may be for a new one… -
From: “Daniel S. Hayes” danh@Intelus.Com
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 13:24:37 -0400
Subject: Lead or Bondo
Hi all, I am at the critical point in the restoration process where
I am looking for a good body man (or should I say “person”; its the 90s).
My attempt to find such an individual in the Washington DC area that is
experienced in lead loading has thus far come up short. In fact, I’ve
experienced a few “hu? lead what?” responses to the question. I guess if I
drove up to a gas station and asked for leaded gas I would get the same
response!
Those body people (they do allot of British car work) I have talked
to seem to think bondo will do just fine. If the metal has been worked
correctly, shouldn’t this be true? Further, I have heard rumor of a new
type of bondo that has an aluminum content. Has anyone heard of this? If
so, what are your views on the new bondo? Last question: is pulling dents
with copper rods worth the expense? For those of you not familiar with this
process, as a substitute for the hole produced by the conventional dent
puller, a copper rod is welded to the dent then ground off after the dent
has been pulled.
Can’t wait for the British Car Day show on the 23rd. I’ll be there
with my camera attempting to capture color schemes ideas for my Jaguar.
Regards,
Daniel S. Hayes
2200 Wilson Blvd., #102-226
Arlington, VA 22201
danh@intelus.com 64 3.8 Series I E-Type Coupe
301-990-6363x263 301-330-6707 Fax
From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 96 09:22:00 PDT
Subject: XJ6 SIII oil pressure sender
Good Morning,
I had the same experience as Jim Isbell - the oil pressure always
indicated on the low end of things (20PSI at idle, maybe 40 at speed),
and I was always convinced that it was time for an overhaul. Then the
guage started flickering from 20 to 0 to 40 to 20 and so on, however the
zero pressure idot light didn’t come on. Tapping the gauge, pulling it
and tightening the connections - no change. Tightening the faston
connection to the sender - no change. So I replaced the sender (with
the authentic Jag part at an authentic Jag price), just as Jim did, and
the system now cheerily reports a healthy oil pressure (40PSI to 60 or
so).
Soooo, now I have a question: The engine has 125K miles on it. The top
end was totally redone (all new valves, guides, seals) at 88K. Oil
pressure is good, oil consumption is 1 quart per 3K miles, little
blowby, no water in the oil :). Compression is in the good range and
differs little from cyclinder to cylinder. Idle is a little lumpy.
Power seems OK but this is totally masked by the weak and sliping OEM
transmission. When I replace the tranny (probably with a GM350), is
there any reason to yank the engine and rebuild it? Or should I just
save my money?
Thanks.
David
'84XJ6 VDP
Looking for a clean drivable SI XKE OTS
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 96 10:58:35 PDT
Subject: Re: Bargain XJS Purchase
My advice to you is to not be tempted by either of these shabby,
run-down XJS’s, no matter how cheap they are. Buy the best one you
can afford. For around $7k you can get a pretty decent one.
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: LLoyd 3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@pucc.PRINCETON.EDU
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 96 11:02:01 PDT
Subject: Ten Worst things on a car
The Ten Worst Things Done to Cars
since Henry Ford's production line
by
LLoyd Nolan
Lets face it, some of the 'new ideas' reaped upon us by the
automobile industry not only makes their products look and run
worse, but are downright dangerous and annoying. After reading
the Ten Best Tools of All Time that recently circulated on the
internet, I’ve decided to add my own bit about the annoying
and/or stupid things that have kept me from buying a new car for
the past twenty years.
1: The car won't start unless it's in park. I mean, what
the heck is this? The first automatic I had didn’t even have a
park. If it’s in neutral it should be ok to start it. Are they
afraid I might try to go someplace in neutral? This epitomizes
the concept of taking control and options from the driver. This
rates right up there with number two below.
2: You have to push the clutch in before the starter will
engage. I borrowed a truck with a 4-speed once. Put it in neutral
and couldn’t get the darned thing to start. Thank God I live on
a hill, just coasted down and popped the clutch. I could agree
with this nuisance if there were no neutral gear. If someone
tries to start a car in gear and gets a jolt, that only means it
is time to wake up and pay attention to what you are doing.
Driving a vehicle is no time to go unconscious. You need to be
making decisions, executing options, not putting your brain on
automatic pilot. Heck, if they wanted you to drive on automatic
pilot they would make it so that you have to do the same things
over and over each time you got in the car. Does anyone see the
irony here? Are new cars an oxymoron, or what? Am I alone here?
3: You have to step firmly on the brake pedal before you
can shift out of park. Talk about trying to make mindless robots
out of all of us, this is one of the most annoying things on new
cars. I about tore the gearshift off a rental car before I
figured this one out. Even if you shift and brake at the same
time it still doesn’t work. There should be no interconnection
between the gear shifter and brake assembly. More damn things to
break, more damned maintenance costs, and another thing to annoy
you.
4: These stoooopid back door locking systems. I once rented
a car and couldn’t open the back doors from inside the car. My
brother in law rented the same model and he couldn’t get in from
the outside of the back doors on his. “It’s for the sake of the
poor children”, the liberals will say. Well, if you kept them in
their seat belts like you are supposed to, you wouldn’t need the
darned special locking system.
5: Talking about locks, how about the automatic door
locking systems. Nice huh, you start to drive off and all the
doors lock automatically. So what happens when your loved one has
an accident. A little old neighbor lady died in her burning car
because no one in the area had anything big enough to break out
the windows to help her get out. Talk about a law suit waiting to
happen.
6: I hate the automatic chokes. First, they never stay on
for the right amount of time, then as they get older they stick
and your gas mileage goes to hell, or it won’t start in the cold
weather. When I was a kid a sticking choke caused me to wreck my
dads new car on an icy intersection. Remember the manual choke?
Pull it out to start, push it in to drive. What can be easier? If
you are auto-xing your car, you pull it out a quarter inch to
increase the idle speed for the day. You control it yourself! Can
you remember when you used to drive your car instead of just ride
in it? Many younger drivers don’t even know what it feels like to
have control of and “drive” a car. They get in, point the
steering wheel and step on the gas. I hear they are training
chimpanzees to drive. Just drive down any freeway, the brain dead
are already out there.
7: How about that third, eye level stop light. There's
always some clod who rides and pumps the brakes right in front of
you. I am used to looking through the rear window of the car in
front of me, to see the cars in front of him, to anticipate quick
stops. With that damned annoying light, there is so much glare
that I can’t see what’s going on. If you take an American car to
Europe, most of the countries will make you disconnect or remove
that light. I mean, how long can someone flash a red light in
your face before you get angry?
8: Lets take a poke at the fuel that has been legislated.
In the last two months the cost of gasoline has gone up 33 to
35%, AND the fuel mileage has gone down. It’s costing me a lot
more to make my car run crummy. Ahh, our government at work.
9: Some of the new cars have the headlights on all the
time. Just the thing you need when you are driving across the
valley and it’s a hundred degrees; the heat of an extra 70 watts
flowing back into your engine compartment. Then what happens when
you lose an alternator, regulator or battery? There is no
override to turn them off so you get stuck in the middle of
nowhere because you can’t shut off everything electrical to drive
to someplace to get it fixed. Do you suppose they actually PAID
the guy who came up with something that stupid?
10: How about those neat seat belts that retract
automatically when you close the door? The first time I was
attacked by one of those, I raised my hands to cover my face and
got them caught there by the belt. Another classic example of how
they are making mindless robots out of us. “Don’t give them any
choice or options…”, I can just hear the designers now.
11: OK, so I lied, there are eleven. It's having to put the
car in reverse or park before you can remove the key. That really
irritates me. I like to be able to leave it in third so I can get
in, turn on the ignition and roll down the hill and let the
clutch out to start the car. Saves the battery, the starter and
alternator. Gives me some options and a bit of control on how I
want to drive my car. Oh, that’s it, I forgot, they want to take
away the control, don’t they.
12: Yes, I know, this is twelve. But I've got to mention
that darned noise, the buzzer or bell when you open a door with
the key in the ignition. When working near or on my car, I like
to listen to the radio. I open the door to hear it better and
guess what I have to listen to along with the music. BZZZZZZ. And
it doesn’t stop. I finally took a big hammer and screwdriver to
the buzzer so now I can listen to the radio. But the interior
light doesn’t come on when I open the drivers door any more.
Heck, small price to pay, I’d say.
13: Sorry I'm so long winded, just one last item. As a high
school kid, I could tune up my '55 Olds in 45 minutes flat. Now
it takes three hours and five thousand dollars worth of
electronic equipment to tune an engine. There are so many hoses,
tubes, smog pumps, solenoids and assorted appliances under the
hood that you can’t reach the spark plugs in many models. Someone
with a masters in electrical engineering scratches his head
trying to figure out why it still doesn’t idle smoothly.
...and don't even get me started on catalytic converters.
LLoyd -and this is why my "new" car is a 1971. -
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #148
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Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 23:04:42 +0200 (MET DST)
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Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #149
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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 13 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 149
Self-introduction & looking for a cat
Re: XJ40 A/C question
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #147
Re: Lead or Bondo
XJS Oil Pressure Relief Valve
XJ40 - Oil Pressure - Update
no mail
From: nrichers@nexus.yorku.ca (Nikolaj Peddie-Richers)
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 96 14:28:14 EST
Subject: Self-introduction & looking for a cat
I recently subscribed to the Jag lovers mailing list. Ailing from
Jaguar deprivation syndrome for some time, it has been very
enjoyable reading all of your posts.
I have fond childhood memories of times spent in and around Jags:
my father had a Mk II-bodied Daimler V8 saloon, a 420 saloon, and
a Daimler Double-Six (which to my surprise isn’t sold in that
form in North America). The various Jag quirks I have been
reading about on the list have a very familiar ring.
If there is anyone who knows about a nice, solid Series III
saloon for sale in the Toronto area, please drop me a line. I
prefer the twelve, '86 and up, but a six is fine also, if it is
in good condition. Is there anyone on the list who can recommend
a good Jag dealer in Toronto where one could hunt for a clean,
used saloon?
Nikolaj
Nikolaj Peddie-Richers, North York, Canada, nrichers@nexus.yorku.ca
From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 14:35:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: XJ40 A/C question
<The compressor on my '88 XJ40’s a/c is leaking. My local Jag dealer
<suggests replacing for about $780 USD. Anyone have experience with this
<replacement and any sample costs. Being mechanically challenged, I will
<have to pay to have this repaired.
In my early days of Jaguar ownership I paid a similar price
for a compressor replacement. Live and learn. The A/C unit is
a GM part. Find the same unit from a supplier other than Jaguar
and it should be under $200. Replacing the compressor is not
a difficult job and could probably be done in 1 hour easily
by a competant A/C guy with no Jaguar expertise. That seems to
bring the total including freon charge to around $300 installed.
Thomas E. Alberts
From: kharder@Direct.CA (Ken Harder)
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 12:52:43 -0700
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #147
jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 13 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 147
Odometer in Miles
Home Page Revisions
Travel
Re: Oil Filters & Steering
Re: Teflon /nylon washer on oil plug
Re: [General] A/C and heater on/off controversy
Re: '88 XJ40 Front Suspension
Re: [General] A/C and heater on/off controversy
XJ6 Air Flow Meter, etc
Servicing Power Steering (SIII XJ6)
RE: seeking new springs
jag for sale
XJ6 Book, Health report on mine, Oil pressure
XJ40 - Oil Pressure Again
Re: XJ6 Book, Health report on mine, Oil pressure [all models]
Re: 1985 XJS Question?
Re: [General] A/C and heater on/off controversy
Re: XJ40 - Oil Pressure Again
Re: Proper Temp for XJ-6 SIII
From: Quang Ngo qlogic!ngo@netcom.com
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 12:52:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Odometer in MilesHello everyone,
My 89 XJ40’s odometer shows numbers in kilometers. Is this normal all this
model? How do I change it to miles? There is a switch on the VCM interface
but that doesn’t do the job. I thought I’ve been driving my car for 30,000
miles already, but actually that is in kilometers, which is about 14,000
miles.
- -Quang (ngo@qlogic.com)
89 XJ40 (black)
89 MBZ 300E (red)
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 19:52:26 -0400
Subject: Home Page RevisionsFor the entertainment and edification of all jag-lovers and others out
there, I have added a treatise on “Proper Jaguar Etiquette” to my WWW site.
Start at:http://gcn.scri.fsu.edu/~palmkand proceed to the Jaguar page.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 19:52:28 -0400
Subject: TravelWell, I’m outta here. I will be unsubscribing for the duration of my
Australia/NZ trip, rather than letting GCN get all clogged up with messages.
I’ll be resubscribing when I get back, and then I’ll get to figure out how
to look at the archives!For those of you in NZ and Australia: Look out, here I come! For the rest
of you: see you in late July!-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | -- Palm's Postulate
From: ajbeale@squirrel.com.au (A.J. Beale)
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 10:14:37 -0700
Subject: Re: Oil Filters & SteeringThis mainly replies to Kirby’s comments, but thanks also to others who
responded. As regards the black power steering fluid, I doubt that it was
just old age - seemed more like colloidal graphite had been added, like we
used to do to almost everything - way back that is. I have now changed the
fluid 4 times but it is still grey. Will change it a couple more times.
Now to the other points.I believe ALL modern cartridge filters are anti-drain type. What is
unusual about these?Nothing, if you buy a reputable brand, but I understand that some of the
cheapies may not be.Jaguar steering rack mounting bushes for the XJ6, because the stiffer
after market >>bushes have no give and the mounting stanchions crack.Nonsense. If anything, the stiffer bushes REDUCE the loads on the
stanchions.The information and recommendation comes from the repair shop where the
cracks are rewelded. They say that a complete steering failure is possible.With the aftermarket bushes, the forces are uniformly distributed among
all three >mounts, and over the entire circumference of each mount. With
the stock mounts, >the rack freely moves side to side until it whacks into
one stanchion or another.I was shown one of the steering assemblies in the spares shop (not as
installed) but I understand that the flanges of the flanged (top hat)
mounting bushes allow a small lateral movement. If harder bushes replace
these, there is an increased risk of applying stresses with the fixation
bolts. Also, if the small amount of “give” is removed in this assembly,
which is subject to rapid stress changes, including stress reversals, the
possibility of fatigue failure is considerably increased. It IS the
assemblies with the stiff replacement bushes which are failing and it is NOT
Jaguar who are complaining. Why should they - they sell more steering units
this way. Alan
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 20:13:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Teflon /nylon washer on oil plugThe point is to keep some in stoc!
On Tue, 11 Jun 1996, Kirby Palm wrote:
John Napoli:
The copper washers used under the oil pan plug are available in various
sizes for very little cost from chains like Pep Boys. I always keep an
assortment in stock – comes in handy when, after changing the oil on a
Sunday night, things get drippy.If things get drippy AFTER you changed the oil, you’ve got a problem. You
can’t replace that damned washer without draining all the brand new oil,
which is a PITA. Better to have a GOOD washer in there to begin with – and
my vote would NOT be a copper washer, new or not. Fiber washers work for
me, and I suspect the described metal washers with rubber insert would be
even better.-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | -- Palm's Postulate
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 20:27:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [General] A/C and heater on/off controversyWe don’t all live with Florida’s humidity, Kirby!
Regardless of whether the air flow is in series or parallel, the fact
remains that it is being managed by an excess of capacity at each end.
Is this not so? ‘Bang-bang’ control systems are pretty easy to produce.The Jag climate control – or at least the one in my old car – does not
provide the operator with enough control options: can you manually
invoke recirculation? And as you have pointed out several times, the Jag
intentionally runs the compressor (all the time?) to do things like cool
the returning fuel.IMHO, the Jag climate control is not designed as well as one might
expect. It wastes power and doesn’t provide enough control options. I
am modifying mine to correct these deficiencies and will report on
results when completed.On Tue, 11 Jun 1996, Kirby Palm wrote:
John Napoli:
I don’t think that the issue is whether or not to use the A/C, but rather
whether the compressor should be running when it is not needed. This
wastes fuel and reduces power for the following reason: it is much
easier and cheaper for the factory to design a fast-acting automatic
climate
control system this way. The designers essentially have two buffers –
one supply of chilled air and another supply of heated air.Simple blending by varying fan
speeds and opening or closing flaps gives you temperature control, and
fast acting at that. The price you pay is running the compressor when
not needed, and increasing overall heat burden by introducing hot water
under the dash in the summer.Good logic based on an incorrect understanding of the operation of the
system. What is described is called a hot deck/cold deck system, and they
do exist – but that’s not what the Jaguar has. The Jag is a sequential
system wherein all air goes through the evaporator first, and then either
goes through or bypasses the heater core. The purpose is to dehumidify the
air, regardless of what temperature is called for. A quick-responding
control is included, and is a requirement, but that isn’t the reason for the
design.If the air coming into the system is colder than 55 or so, the compressor
isn’t needed – and is shut off. Between 55 and 75, it IS needed to
dehumidify, but there is very little load on it, so it takes little power.
Above 75, it’s more heavily loaded and the heater is not needed, so the
heater core is shut off by the vacuum-operated valve. Cooling temperature
control is by varying fan speed, not reheat.If you shut off the compressor between 55 and 75, you will get correct
temperature control but higher humidity inside. Not only is this less
comfortable, but it could also promote mold growth in the leather. Not good.-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | -- Palm's Postulate
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 17:48:10 -0700
Subject: Re: '88 XJ40 Front SuspensionThe internal parts of the shock can separate and cause the knocking
noise. First try tightening the subframe and steering rack, they tend
to loosen up about this time.Richard Shehab wrote:
My '88 XJ40 has 105,000 miles. When I am driving on a bumpy surface the
left (drivers side) front suspension seems to “bottom-out”. The front
shocks seem fine and I just had new upper bushings put on them. The
bushings improved the ride but there is still a “knock” when I hit a bump,
especially when making a right hand turn.It seems to happen more when I’m driving slower than when I’m going faster.
Does anybody have an idea what might be causing this problem?
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 21:10:54 -0400
Subject: Re: [General] A/C and heater on/off controversyJohn Napoli:
We don’t all live with Florida’s humidity, Kirby!
True. But humidity is more often a problem than many people realize.
Inside a closed automobile, the respiration of the occupants will raise the
RH significantly in a fairly short time – just ask anybody who’s had the
windows fog over in a drive-in movie. If the outdoor air is REALLY dry,
keeping lots flowing through will keep things dry enough. But in this case,
the A/C compressor will either be off or be running very lightly loaded anyway.Regardless of whether the air flow is in series or parallel, the fact
remains that it is being managed by an excess of capacity at each end.
Is this not so?No, it is not so.
‘Bang-bang’ control systems are pretty easy to produce.
Actually, they are quite expensive! It would have been MUCH cheaper to just
have a thermostat turn the compressor on and off and open and close the
heater valve.The Jag climate control – or at least the one in my old car – does not
provide the operator with enough control options: can you manually
invoke recirculation?Now, THIS complaint I agree with! I, for one, would love to be able to turn
the system OFF and just have the fan blow outdoor air through.-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | -- Palm's Postulate
From: scoleman@pcl.net (Steve Coleman)
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 20:14:53 -0500
Subject: XJ6 Air Flow Meter, etcI am new to this group, but not especially new to Jaguar. My first was a
red '85 XJS acquired
when it was five years old. I got the shop manual and gradually overcame
my intimidation on
gazing upon the engine compartment and started doing some minor work–hose
changes, sparks
plugs, idle speed, throttle adjustment. Although I am ashamed to admit it,
I succumbed to my
wife’s objections that it was not a “family man’s car,” but at least I
swapped it for an '89
XJ40. My wife liked this one so much that she got an '88 XJ40–sadly
totalled a couple weeks
ago at the hands of a teenager turning left directly into her path. This
will in all
likelihood be replaced by a more recent model of the same.I, however, realized that my true dream car was the Series III XJ6, and a
couple of months ago
I swapped my '89 XJ40 for an '87 model. I got the shop manual, found a lot
of details
reminiscent of the XJS–started fixing several of the minor flaws. When I
took it to get the
windows tinted, I found that some tampering had been done to the fuel
system. The shop
complained that while they worked on it, engine off but electrical system
on to run the heater
fan, a puddle of gasoline developed under the engine. Sure enough, there
was a slow leak at
the hose to the cold start injector, fixed simply by tightening the clamp.
However, the fuel
pump ran continuously with ignition switched to “on”. The handbook
informed me that this was
not supposed to be the case, that is, the fuel pump was to be actuated
initially by engaging
the starter and then maintained by air flow through the air meter. When I
opened up the air
flow meter, I saw that the fuel pump switch contacts were continously
closed. I fixed this by
bending them out slightly. My concern at this point is that the prior
tampering with the air
flow meter and my subsequent correction have disturbed the proper air-fuel
mixture. Is there
any way to check or fix this short of using a CO meter? There is no
obvious flaw in
performance. Mileage varies–as much as 24 MPG at 50 MPH, AC off, but it
drops off drastically
at higher speeds–more like 18 MPG at 75 MPH.Also some vibration problems with the rear brakes. PO told me they had been
recently redone,
and new rotors were confirmed by the local Goodyear shop, but at least one
appears to be warped
or off center. I understand that removal of the rear rotors is a real PITA
and I will probably
put this one off indefinitely, unless anyone has any suggestions.Steve Coleman
SIII XJ6 and loving it
From: sfisher@sola.com.au (Scott Fisher)
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 96 20:29 CST
Subject: Servicing Power Steering (SIII XJ6)Having just noticed a post about black power steering fluid, this
struck me as a little discussed topic on the list.So what is the recommended servide procedure and interval for the
power steering system on a SIII XJ6 (ar any Jaguar for that matter)?Regards Scott.
Scott Fisher [sfisher@sola.com.au] PH: (08)329-28341.
_--_|\ NSOLA Optical / \ W + E
International Holdings Research Center _.–*_/ S
Adelaide, South Australia vJoy is a Jaguar XJ6 with a flat battery, a blown oil seal and an unsympathetic
wife, 9km outside of a small remote town, 3:15am on a cold wet winters morning.
From: Tony Watts amw@maths.uq.oz.au
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 12:13:42 +1000
Subject: RE: seeking new springsI’m looking for some new springs for my XJS. The cat is crouching lower and
lower and occasionaly the bottom hits bumps.
Any one know a good source?
I’m not looking for anything fancy or racy.
Julian MullaneyWould it be sensible to get the old springs reset?
Tony Watts
From: RDunlap684@aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 23:42:52 -0400
Subject: jag for saleHEY ALL YOU JAG LOVERS; I’VE GOT THE PERFECT CAR FOR YOUR SPOUSE.OR FRIEND;
IT’ S A 1969 XKE 2+2. SIGNAL RED/BLACK, CONCOURS CONDITION, 64K MILES, 97+
JCNA WINNER, SAME OWNER FOR THE PAST 15 YEARS HERE IN THE ROCKEY MTN. AREA.
WE ARE RETIRING TO THE MTNS. AND NEED TO SELL THIS CAR. I’AM ASKING $20,000
BUT WOULD CONSIDER THE BEST OFFER, OR TRADE FOR A LATE MODEL XJ-6. THIS CAR
HAS A LOT OF HISTORY AND HAS BEEN PAMPERED, YET DROVE HARD, IT,S NAME IN THE
RMJC CLUB IS “BIG RED”. IT IS IN GREAT SHAPE AND HAVE A LOT OF
IMPROVEMENTS, NEW PAINT, TYRES, T-BARS, HIDES ETC.
GIVE ME A CALL @ 303-451-6805 OR RDUNLAP@AOL.COM.
ED DUNLAP
1200 W.104TH PL.
NORTHGLENN CO. 80234-3803
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 1996 21:51:43 -0500
Subject: XJ6 Book, Health report on mine, Oil pressureThe XJ6 book is running late. I was a bit optomistic when I proposed June
30th as the date or revelation. I hadnt planned on three weeks of surgery
and recovery!Took my XJ6 to the only Certified Jaguar mechanic in Austin to get a full
health report. At 113,948 miles it requires only front radius arm bushes,
adjustment of the lower ball joints, alignnment, outboard diff seals, and
one of the half shaft U joints is installed backwards (cant grease it). All
of which my man said we could wait on and do over a several month period.
(My wife has taken a new job where she will be putting 500 miles a week on
the car so I have started a monthly schedule to get the car to him for
review and repair as needed)I believe the good report is the result of my occasional racing. I keep the
car in top shape so that I won’t have any surprises at 120MPH. The cost of
keeping it in good shape is no more than fixing it when it is neglected and
is probably less. The result is I have a car that is 14 years old and has
114K miles on it that I still trust for daily transportation to the tune of
100 miles a day. AND, it has whipped the likes of Ferraris at Texas World
Speedway which is worth the cost of the maintenance if I never drove in on
the street!!I have just replaced the oil pressure guage sender on my car with a Jag
replacement. For as long as I have owned this car the pressure was 40PSI at
cruise and 20PSI at idle. Until it started giving intermitent readings in
the last two months. Now it is 60PSI at cruise and 50PSI at idle. This
makes sense since the bypass pressure valve relieves at 60PSI.So now I am wondering if some of the low oil pressures that some of us have
experienced could not be solved with a new sender for the guage. At $75 and
15 minutes (if the car is cold) it is the easiest and cheapest of the fixes
and so probably should be the first one tried.
Jim“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil
From: “Shelly Bolden, Ext. 4770” bolden@BBN.COM
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 96 23:44:43 EDT
Subject: XJ40 - Oil Pressure AgainMy 90 (73,000 miles) XJ40 has not used any oil since I have had the car ( 2
years now). A few weeks ago, my husband changed the oil as usual and
everything was normal for awhile, then I started seeing the pressure drop.
The normal conditions were 40PSI at idle and about 60PSI during normal
driving.Sunday, the car was suddenly 2 quarts low, we topped it off. Today, as I
parked, the oil indicator came on and PSI dropped to zero. I checked the oil
and it was still OK. Leaving the office, I had to keep a foot on the brake
and a foot on the gas to keep the pressure up when coming to a stop. I then
drove to the dealer, and the maintenance rep. told me it could be the sensor
or oil pump. I have an appointment for next Tuesday.Has anyone else seen this condition or have ideas for it’s cause? I’d like to
have some knowwledge to compare against the dealers recommendation Tuesday.Shelly
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 13 Jun 96 18:19:49
Subject: Re: XJ6 Book, Health report on mine, Oil pressure [all models]Jim Isbell :
So now I am wondering if some of the low oil pressures that some of us have
experienced could not be solved with a new sender for the guage. At $75 and
15 minutes (if the car is cold) it is the easiest and cheapest of the fixes
and so probably should be the first one tried.I’d see it as one point to check, rather than a routine replacement (“if it
ain’t broke, don’t spend 75 bucks on it”). And I never “try fixes”, I
determine
which component is faulty and then repair or replace that (fine, arrogant last
words, no?).As you know, the oil pressure will vary with engine revs up to somewhere in
the
range 1200-2000 rpm when hot, then come to a steady reading as the relief
valve
pops. If this steady reading is around 55-65 psi (this is not a precision
instrument), the gauge and the relief valve can both be presumed good. If the
steady reading is very low or erratic, the gauge or relief valve could be
faulty - and I’d check the relief valve first, because if it’s faulty, you
could have a $eriou$ problem (especially if the idiot light comes on) whilst a
faulty gauge is merely an inconvenience.If the pressure goes very high and doesn’t seem to be limited, care is
indicated again - either the gauge is faulty or the relief valve blocked.
Again, I’d check the relief valve first because excessive pressure could
conceivably bur$t a seal somewhere and lose the oil.If the blow-off pressure is abnormal and the relief valve checks out OK -
that’s when I’d test the oil pressure sender. NB test, not routinely replace,
because as I’ve preached before, 99% of my electrical troubles have been
wiring, not components - and the fault could still be in the indicator.
- Jan
From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 03:34:21 -0400
Subject: Re: 1985 XJS Question?Jan Wikstroem writes:
JW> As for the plug actually coming apart, this can only be a
JW> manufacturing fault - over-tightening in an aluminium head would
JW> strip the aluminium thread long before the plug could be even
JW> strained - and your lawyer should have a little chat with Champion.I once broke off a spark plug in an Alfa Romeo engine due to overtorquing.
No damage at all was done to the Alfa’s aluminum head though initially I was
sure I’d have to put in a helicoil until I worked up the nerve to open the
hood back up. The remainder of the plug easily screwed out. I’ve never
tried it deliberately, but it’s good design practice to have the plug fail
before the head threads. Remember that the spark plug’s metal portion is
hollow anyway & so it can be deliberately made weaker than the head it’ll be
screwed in to. Yes, I was using a click-type torque wrench at the time, but
I had loaned it out & it’d gotten broken. My only excuse is that I was a lot
younger then & it DID seem like I was having to turn the durn thing unusually
hard to get to the proper torque. Some of us learn about loaning tools & the
virtue of a soft touch the hard way…
-Steve A.
From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 03:34:10 -0400
Subject: Re: [General] A/C and heater on/off controversyKirby Palm writes:
KP> If you shut off the compressor between 55 and 75, you will get
KP> correct temperature control but higher humidity inside. Not only is
KP> this less comfortable, but it could also promote mold growth in the
KP> leather. Not good.Mold growth in the leather? Isn’t that what you get after the AC drains plug
up? I think Kirby got confused on this one and indavertently thought it was
April 1. If this was really a problem, any car that lived in a humid climate
would have the problem since few of us can afford dehumidified garages. Just
rig up a switch to keep the compressor from coming on when you want to run
“heating only” & paint three little water drops on it for that touch of
Jaguar style. Run the compressor occasionally just to keep the system from
leaking its freon.
-Steve A.
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 13 Jun 96 18:36:11
Subject: Re: XJ40 - Oil Pressure AgainThe oil light coming on when the gauge drops to zero puts the sender and gauge
in the clear; the light has a separate sensor, and if both agree that the oil
pressure is too low, you can be sure the oil pressure is indeed too low.
That sudden loss of oil would normally indicate a leak - internal if the
exhaust smokes, external if you can see more oil than usual anywhere around
the
engine and oil cooler. But having the oil loss stop equally suddenly - if I
read you message correctly - is a mystery, especially if the pressure drops
drastically at the same time. I’d check the oil pressure relief valve first,
because if it sticks open, you’d get the pressure problem, and that’s not an
uncommon thing even if it doesn’t explain the oil loss.There might be some more unusual cause for the pressure loss, such as some
internal gallery plug deciding to take a holiday, but that wouldn’t explain
the
oil loss either. All I can say is, I’d have a really good examination of
engine, oil cooler and exhaust pipes before going to the doctor.
- Jan
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 01:09:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Proper Temp for XJ-6 SIIILarry,
If the cooling system hasn’t been serviced in the last few years
this would be the best place to start. Pull the radiator and have it
rodded out. Have the A/C pressures checked and make sure that the
system isn’t overcharged. While you have the coolant out change the
thermostat to a Jaguar replacement Waxstat Brand, none other. If the
coolant temp sensor for the gauge is original then replace it also.
Flush the block out thoroughly with a cleaning solution. The 105 is a
bit high, I do whatever is necessary to get it down to 95 on a 90-100
degree day at 50 mph cruising speed. Change all hoses that look suspect
and revel in the fact that your cooling system is now serviced properly.Lawrence Karpman wrote:
My '85 XJ-6 SIII at 90 degrees F outside temp or better is running mid
green at 105 degrees with the air on and 95 degrees with it off. The owners
manual says this is fine. I have been told otherwise. I urgently need your
advice. Please respond asap if you have time.Larry Karpman
Bedford, TX-to scoleman
from kharder@direct.ca
My condolences on your loss. I have an 88 soveriegn that needs a brake light
and a mud flap. Would it ease your pain any to have your jag parts take on
new life in another 88 jag? Let me know if we can make a deal.
Deb on the web.-----------------------------End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #147
From: kboetzer@auspex.com (Ken Boetzer)
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 13:43:06 -0700
Subject: Re: Lead or Bondo
Hi all, I am at the critical point in the restoration process whereI am looking for a good body man (or should I say “person”; its the 90s).
My attempt to find such an individual in the Washington DC area that is
experienced in lead loading has thus far come up short. In fact, I’ve
experienced a few “hu? lead what?” responses to the question. I guess if I
drove up to a gas station and asked for leaded gas I would get the same
response!
Those body people (they do allot of British car work) I have talked
to seem to think bondo will do just fine. If the metal has been worked
correctly, shouldn’t this be true? Further, I have heard rumor of a new
type of bondo that has an aluminum content. Has anyone heard of this? If
so, what are your views on the new bondo? Last question: is pulling dents
with copper rods worth the expense? For those of you not familiar with this
process, as a substitute for the hole produced by the conventional dent
puller, a copper rod is welded to the dent then ground off after the dent
has been pulled.
Can’t wait for the British Car Day show on the 23rd. I’ll be there
with my camera attempting to capture color schemes ideas for my Jaguar.Regards,
Daniel S. Hayes
2200 Wilson Blvd., #102-226
Arlington, VA 22201
danh@intelus.com 64 3.8 Series I E-Type Coupe
301-990-6363x263 301-330-6707 Fax
Dan,
The way I understand it. There is a new material called “All Metal” (So I’ve been
told.) that has a high amount of aluminum powder/filings/flakes/whatever. This is
touted to be as good or better than lead. For many applications conventional polyester
“Bondo” is adequate. Areas that need a very thin layer to smooth a relatively flat
panel or a small imperfection in a panel. Section thickness is generally the decideing
factor. On my car (140 DHC) there are several areas that require a THICK section to
get the proper shape. The headlight pod to the fender and the whindshield post roots
are two of the ares with REALLY THICK sections. This thickness presents thermal
expansion and sealing problems.
The headlight pod to fender joint needs to be weather sealed inside and out. The use
of lead here is almost required as lead will flow in between the metal layers and the
water will be kept out. If water works in between the metal layers we don’t need to
elaborate farther on what happpens next. :-0 :-(( Same is true for the windshield post
root.
If you’re speaking of normal body repair to a modern car, generic bondo will be
satisfactory in ALMOST every case. If you’re doing restoration to a car that was designed
with lead in mind as an integral part of the original body then lead is still the only
real answer. The allmetal can be used in place of bondo in all cases, and for lead in
many (most) cases. One needs to be aware of the total environmental needs to make the
final decision of lead vs organic filler.
With regards to thermal stresses. The thicker the section the more stress transfers
to the boundary layer between the base material and the filler. The resultant separation
with very thick greater than .25 in (6mm) is almost inevitable. The addition of metal
into the plastic filler is an attempt to lessen this effect (affect?? My English aint
as well as it autobe.). There’s other stuff too I’m sure.
Hope this helps,
Ken Boetzer
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 13:42:17 -0700
Subject: XJS Oil Pressure Relief Valve
Has anyone seen an oil pressure relief valve for the XJS that is
adjustable? It would be nice to be able to bump the oil pressure up a
bit at idle to get over 10psi on a hot day.
From: “Shelly Bolden, Ext. 4770” bolden@BBN.COM
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 96 16:50:38 EDT
Subject: XJ40 - Oil Pressure - Update
Thanks for everyones insightful responses, most tend to agree the oil sender
should be the problem (with a couple of stuck valve suggestions thrown in).
Today, oil level is fine again, but did have the following occur also.
This a.m., I went out and started the car, the 0 pressure and oil light problem
started immediately. I rev’d the engine, light went off and pressure went up to
50PSI and stayed there around the block. So, I decided to go ahead and drive to
the office.
The pressure stayed as if stuck to the 50PSI mark. After the usual 7/11 coffee
stop, the oil gauge suddenly started working again, but pressure is averaging a
low 20 to 50 PSI. ???
Thanks to all again,
Shelly uhhh 90 XJ40 4.0 Sovereign
- ----- Forwarded message # 1:
My 90 (73,000 miles) XJ40 has not used any oil since I have had the car ( 2
years now). A few weeks ago, my husband changed the oil as usual and
everything was normal for awhile, then I started seeing the pressure drop.
The normal conditions were 40PSI at idle and about 60PSI during normal driving.
Sunday, the car was suddenly 2 quarts low, we topped it off. Today, as I
parked, the oil indicator came on and PSI dropped to zero. I checked the oil
and it was still OK. Leaving the office, I had to keep a foot on the brake
and a foot on the gas to keep the pressure up when coming to a stop. I then
drove to the dealer, and the maintenance rep. told me it could be the sensor
or oil pump. I have an appointment for next Tuesday.
Has anyone else seen this condition or have ideas for it’s cause? I’d like to
have some knowwledge to compare against the dealers recommendation Tuesday.
- ----- End of forwarded messages
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 16:03:51 -0500
Subject: no mail
Why am I not getting jag-lovers anymore???
Scott Phillips
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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 14 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 150
Towbars for XJ S2 / S3 ?
Re: Why two fuel tanks?
Re: Hail Damage
Re: A/C dryer maintenance
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #140
non jag - humourous!!! Jet Assited Take-off (dos and don’ts)
Re: [General] A/C and heater on/off controversy
Introduction
Bargain XJS
Re: Proper Temp for XJ-6 SIII
Re: Oil drain plug XJ40
XJ40- A/C and Oil Sender
Speedometer.
[86 XJ-S V12] Bad perfromance after cold start and wiper parking questions
Lloyd’s Top 13
Re: [86 XJ-S V12] Bad perfromance after cold start
Lubrication/Anybody use a pre-luber?
Re: [86 XJ-S V12] Bad perfromance after cold start and wiper parking questions
'91 XJ 40 rear suspension
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 13 Jun 96 17:43:28 EDT
Subject: Towbars for XJ S2 / S3 ?
Hi all,
I presume there are different way of mounting a towbar on a XJ S2. I bought one
in Holland used 5
years ago but looking at it I find it a little bit crude, and especially the
mounting makes me wondfer whether this is really the only way or even the best
way to mount it. Maybe someone has some ideas ?
ASCII drawing
from the side :
/-/ < This piece bolts with four 4 inch long bolt just
behind the chrome bumper
/ 0 < Tow hook
T----------/-----/
The “T” is a flat piece of “L” formed metal bracket which bolts up into the
spare wheel well, about 13
inch wide.
Top view :
########### < This bolts up into the spare wheel well
\ I /
\ I /
\ I /
\ I /
\I/
-T-----T-- /I\ -T----T- < This is on the inside in the spare wheel well,
“T” is a bolt
------------/ I ------------ < This is on the outside justbehind the
bumper
I
0 < Tow hook
The whole thing is what I call not elegant at all. Ant I have to drill four 10
mm holes into the flat horisontal lip just under the bumper i.e. I have to get
the chrome bumper off first - not difficult but stiil extra work.
And I think the mounting places are not strong enough.
Looking at the bumper mounts I would have thought they would have been perfect
places to mount a fat fat 70 mm dia tube with flat ends bolting onto the bumper
mount, with a U shaped hook plus a support following the shape of the rounded
rear end and bolts on to the bottom somehow.
Any suggestions ? experiences with tow bars ? anyone with knowlegde of a
“beautiful” hook design ?
Regards Jeffrey Gram
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 13 Jun 96 17:43:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Why two fuel tanks?
ITt’s simple guys,
Which other car can pull in to the gas station an park equidistantly from the
petrol pumps,
an fill from TWO pumps, hands free!!!, and really annoy the Merc and BMW
drivers!!!
So I guess it means you guy’s and gal’s twin tanks cars dont have a balance pipe
and can pump from left to right and vice versa ?. When I really go fast in left
right left corners I can program the high capacity pump to shove 40 liters in
1.2 second from left to right and vice versa to dynamically balance the rear for
optimum weight balance. Two small mercury contacts control the direction of fuel
in this mode in this mode. another 2 inch air balance pipe lets air move.
This construction has other advantageous tricks, like being able to stand an a
petrol pump and let 130 litres of petrol flow through either petrol filler. It
really made people look , especially the ones that knew a Jag has Two tanks but
not THAT big. Oh , I forgot to tell, that during the last rebuild I converted my
sills to two extra fuel tanks. I had long triangular shaped tanks made in
stainless and mounted these as part of the sill construction, bolted to the
inner sill, and then spotwelded the outer sills in place. In the beginning the
contents was not leadfree, but 100 proof french cognac that we smuggled from
germany to denmark, where the price is (was) up to four times the price in
germany. However times changed so it wasn’t really that worthwhile anymore, and
we found it difficult to finish a barrel of cognag per year in the family. So…
Now they serve as fuel tanks. I did think of converting the tanks to function as
Draught beer containers, But I would have to run the airco to cool the beer and
It was not such a good idea.
Anyway I can almost drive as long distance as the new Volkswagen Passat diesel
TDI’s, however not as Cheap but who care ?.
Stay tuned.
Regs Jeffrey Gram
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 13 Jun 96 17:43:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Hail Damage
This message is not of much use, since I can’t remember HOW to get the hail
damage out, but I do know that recently (last two years) a new method has come
up to deal with this problem.
Go on researching, some day you will find the solution if you ask eenough
people.
Regards Jeffrey Gram
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 13 Jun 96 17:43:25 EDT
Subject: Re: A/C dryer maintenance
Kirby,
I have gone through my documentation on the air-co system and cannot find any
reference to a
periodical receiver-dryer replacement other than -when i\t is full of water - no
way to see when that
actually happens.
My local cool shop told me 2 years were the maintenance interval. My book on the
4.2 E-type airco unit
()jaguar publication no E 157/1 ) lists a check on refrigerant oil level every
twelve months. The pump however is different.
I changed my dryer to be on the safe side - no reason to wait for a king-size
bill to arrive due to lack of maintenance. - And I think 11 years without a new
dryer makes it about time to get a new.
The book also lists that a new receiver dryer unit is needed and possibly new
refrigerant oil if the system has been opened for long periods.
Just a curious question : Does the XJ40 have a more powerful airco than the XJ
series 3 ?. Does the newer jagfs have a recirculation function for fast cool and
close off the exterior stink ?
Regards Jeffrey Gram
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 13 Jun 96 17:43:09 EDT
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #140
Robert,
I can most definately guarantee that most jaguar’s with ECU’s DONT have fuel
enrichment with
the A/C running. That would be completely immoral, antisocial, and no kidding -
a federal offence in all
of Europe, and I am quite convinced in most US states (with a serious
relationship to fight pollution).
Regards Jeffrey Gram
From: tony goodall tony@goodall.u-net.com
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 22:38:55 +0100
Subject: non jag - humourous!!! Jet Assited Take-off (dos and don’ts)
jag lovers - I got this via a music list - is this a true story?>?
tony
>(source unknown)
>
>You know about the Darwin Awards -- the annual honor given to the person
>who did
>the gene pool the biggest service by killing themselves in the most
>extraordinarily stupid
>way! Last years winner was the guy who was killed by a Coke machine which
>toppled
>over on top of him as he was attempting to tip a free soda out of it.
>
>And this years nominee is:
>
>The Arizona Highway Patrol came upon a pile of smoldering metal embedded
>into the side
>of a cliff rising above the road at the apex of a curve. The wreckage
>resembled the site of
>an airplane crash, but it was a car. The type was unidentifiable at the
>scene. The lab finally
>figured out what it was and what happened.
>
>It seems that a guy had somehow gotten hold of a JATO UNIT (Jet Assisted
>Take Off-
>actually a solid fuel rocket) that is used to give heavy military transport
>planes an extra
> push for taking off from short airfields. He had driven his Chevy Impala
>out into the
>desert and found a long, straight stretch of road. He attached the JATO
>unit to his car,
>jumped in, got up some speed and fired off the JATO!!!!
>
>The facts, as best as could be determined, are that the operator of the
>1967 Impala hit the
>JATO ignition at a distance of about 3 miles from the crash site. This was
>established by
>the prominent scorched and melted asphalt at that location. The JATO, if
>operating
>properly, would have reached maximum thrust within 5 seconds, causing the
>Chevy to
>reach speeds well in excess of 350 mph, continuing at full power for an
>additional 20-25
>seconds. The driver, soon to be pilot, most likely would have experienced
>G-forces
>usually reserved for dog-fighting F-14 jocks under full afterburners,
>basically causing him
>to become insignificant for the remainder of the event. However, the
>automobile remained on the straight highway for about 2.5 miles(15-20
>seconds) before the driver applied and completely melted the brakes,
>blowing the tires and leaving thick rubber marks on the road surface, then
>becoming airborne for an additional 1.4 miles and impacting the cliff face
>at a height of 125 feet, leaving a crater 3 feet deep in the rock face!
>
>Most of the driver s remains were not recoverable; however, small fragments
>of bone,
>teeth and hair were extracted for the crater, and fingernail and bone
>shards were removed
>form a piece of debris believed to be a portion of the steering wheel.
>
>Visions of Wyle E. Coyote come to my mind at this point!!!!
>------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
I heard about chevy lumps but…?
Dr. A. Goodall http://www.u-net.com/~goodall/
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 19:39:14 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [General] A/C and heater on/off controversy
And that brings us full circle to my original suggestion about the need
for manual overides! Enough already about what is cheaper or better or
wetter or drier (lots of cars have leather interiors and don’t become
Microbiology experiments). Enjoy your vacation and tell us all about it
when you return.
And a postscript to the person who doesn’t think you need to be able to
manually invoke recirculation in a Jag: Come to New York & I’ll take you
for a ride. The bus in front of you in the tunnel doesn’t know that the
Lucas electronics in your fine motorcar decides for itself when to
recirculate the air and that you are too much the gentleman to interrupt
its digital reverie.
The Jag climate control – or at least the one in my old car – does not
provide the operator with enough control options: can you manually
invoke recirculation?Now, THIS complaint I agree with! I, for one, would love to be able to turn
the system OFF and just have the fan blow outdoor air through.-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | -- Palm's Postulate
From: zvitens@ix.netcom.com (Zalman Vitenson )
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 16:39:11 -0700
Subject: Introduction
Just thought I’d introduce myself and my XJ12C, which I’ve owned for
about 11 years and actually driven for less than 1100 miles. My XJ12C
is both my pride and my biggest headache. I’ve had the engine and
transmission rebuilt, new steering mechanism, suspension etc. etc. etc.
Thankfully, I’m a mild mannered Californian.
I’d love to hear from others who own XJ Coupes. I’m especially curious
as to how much they’re worth in different parts of the world. I think
they’re painfully undervalued in the U.S.
Thanks!
From: GFoster737@gnn.com (Gerald Foster)
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 19:43:55
Subject: Bargain XJS
Dear Jagophiles,
The response has been terrific and most helpful. Car A was almost universally put
down. I’m waiting on the mechanics report from the lady owner of Car B before
before I even talk any more. Both cars do look good and the right redneck might come
along and decide to go with a Chevy conversion. At this point, unless I can get them
for 2K, I’m not interested. The rust on Car A scares me too much to get excited
about that one at any price.
Additional comments still appreciated.
Thanks
Gerald
From: blackmx5@usa.pipeline.com (Lawrence Karpman)
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 01:05:32 GMT
Subject: Re: Proper Temp for XJ-6 SIII
Thanks for the great info!!! I’ll start with the thermostat as that is
easiest. I’’ also check the ac charge. I’ll do the radiator rodding next
as budget must be addressed.
Thanks again
Larry Karpman
From: rs@telerama.lm.com (Rich Shehab)
Date: Thu, 13 Jun 1996 22:21:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Oil drain plug XJ40
I just checked the size of the socket I use for the oil drain plug on my
XJ40. It’s 30mm.
Rich Shehab
Pittsburgh, PA
Could some knowledgable person tell me what the exact size of the
engine oil drain plug on an XJ40 is (4.0L if it matters). I’ve been
using a 30mm socket but I don’t think its the correct size and I’d like
to get a new socket anyway.Cheers
Martin Grossman (XJ40 Daimler 4.0)
GEC Plessey Semiconductors
Oldham
Manchester UK
From: Peter Rebbechi <"REBBECHI PETER"@A1.MEOC02.SNO.mts.dec.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 03:10:00 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: XJ40- A/C and Oil Sender
I have fixed/replaced the above problems in my 88 XJ40.
Symptom 1, A/c would not switch back on after turning off. leave 30 minutes
and it will. Often accompanied by sound of electrical contacts arcing behind
fascia. Removed fascia panel, cleaned all contacts, (with spray and alcohol),
small change, but nothing much. Left for another day. Finally failed in
summer, replaced control unit, not a problem after that. Shop suggests that
this is common problem, and often new part will not fix problem, as they are
very sensitive electronics. Working last 6 months without problem. Curiously,
Auto setting works properlay after replacement - cost $200 Aust.
Oil pressure. After first buying car I was scared witless when red lights
flash on oil pressure guage (digital). Bounces back within a second or so.
Car checked out by mechanic who tests pressure and pronounces engine fine,
probably sender. Does not want the job of replacing this, as it is a pig of a
job. 1 yr later, whilst fixing small items, I get the sender unit replaced.
Presto! Instant STEADY oil pressure. BTW car did not noticably use oil at all
during this time, which covered approx 130,000 km. Cost - $75 Aust.
Moral of story. Get it checked out before replacing any part. IOf you are the
only one driving the car, an error in the guage is not a problem. To a
potential buyer, or occasional passenger, it looks like disaster is imminent.
Perhaps try a changeover A/C control unit before shelling out for this part.
BTW XJ40 DOES have an option for turning compressor off, 3 drops (econ)
setting allows flow through only with min fan setting. So things did improve
over time.
From: “Pierre Britz” PB@ing1.rau.ac.za
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 08:41:36 GMT+2
Subject: Speedometer.
Hi,
Some time ago someone was commenting on how easy it is to remove the
speedo on a XJ6 S2. My trip counter does not work and I want ti fix
it. The person said you just push and turn and it comes out. I have
tried with no sucess. Please explain again.
Thank you.
Pierre 1978 XJ6L
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@ @
@ @@@ PIERRE BRITTZ @@@ @
@ @
@ NETWERK ADMIN @ NETWORK ADMIN @
@ RANDSE AFRIKAANSE UNIVERSITEIT @ RAND AFRIKAANS UNIVERSITY @
@ TEL. (011) 489-2658 @ TEL. (011) 489-2658 @
@ +27 11 489-2658(Int) @ +27 11 489-2658(Int) @
@ TELEFAX (011) 489-2357 @ TELEFAX (011) 4892357 @
@ +27 11 489-2357(Int) @ +27 11 489-2357(Int) @
@ E-POS: pb@ing1.rau.ac.za @ E-MAIL: pb@ing1.rau.ac.za @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
From: Paul Peard Paul.Peard@BankersTrust.com
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 11:23:14 +0100
Subject: [86 XJ-S V12] Bad perfromance after cold start and wiper parking questions
I need some help (again), this weeks problems are:
-
After cold (overnight) startup, car has very
little “go” for first 1/4 mile, like foot to the
floor to get up the hill, it doesn’t misfire or
stall just doesn’t go, after I get down the road
and around the corner it just starts to work
properly and then runs fine. Subsequent starts
afterwards, no problems, its only when the engine
is really cold. - I guess a sensor, any clues as
to which one? -
The wipers won’t park anymore, I remember some
threads about a seperate fused circuit that handles
parking after ignition off, but is there another
fuse that handles parking in normal running, or am
I looking at worn bits in the wiper motor.
Thanks in advamce for any jag-net.wisdom.
Regards
Paul
From: “Alastar W. Lauener” bu08@central.napier.ac.uk
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 11:22:35 +0100
Subject: Lloyd’s Top 13
Lloyd, agree with every one of them!
I’m sure you could make a case for a top 100
- Alastair Lauener Work Phone +44 131 455 2458 *
- Chief Technician Fax +44 131 455 2267 *
- Department of Building & Surveying Home Phone +44 1577 864242 *
- Napier University, Edinburgh EH10 5DT a.lauener@central.napier.ac.uk *
- 1964 3.4 S-Type story at http://www.sn.no/home/nick/alas.html *
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 15:00:42 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: [86 XJ-S V12] Bad perfromance after cold start
- After cold (overnight) startup, car has very
little “go” for first 1/4 mile, like foot to the
floor to get up the hill, it doesn’t misfire or
stall just doesn’t go, after I get down the road
and around the corner it just starts to work
properly and then runs fine. Subsequent starts
afterwards, no problems, its only when the engine
is really cold. - I guess a sensor, any clues as
to which one?
check the temperatur sender, it’s near the left hand thermostat housing.
I’ve played around a bit with this sensor to decrease my fuel consumption
after a cold start. With the current temperatur at about 25C and the
sensor set to indicate 70C, the engine would not even start. I have a table
with the thermostat values in Ohm at home if you want it. I think cold
is several KOhm, at about 80C about 330 Ohm [might be slightly off]. There
is also the cold start vacuum advance change, controlled by a few electric
valves, but I doubt that this could cause a similar problem. This controller
is under the right hand side dashboard. It’s triggered by a temp sensor near the
right hand firewall and stays on for 15 minutes when the cooling fluid is
under 40C.
-
- Matthias
From: David Covert davecove@microsoft.com
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 06:26:03 -0700
Subject: Lubrication/Anybody use a pre-luber?
In a few weeks I plan to try and start my rebuilt V12 for the first
time. I understand that I need to pre-lube the engine first. What I
don’t understand is how I am supposed to do that.
My guess (after reading Kirby’s manual) is that I need to get one of
those electric aux oil pumps and install it. I also guess that one of
these would be a good thing to have in the first place.
Since they cost $400 or so, I thought I would ask a few questions before
I dealt out the clams…
- If I don’t use one of these pumps, how do I pre-lube?
- If I do need one of these pumps, where do I get one? I found one in
JCWhitney for $420…>ouch< - Anybody here use one? Love it? Hate it?
Dave Covert
…Particle Man, Particle Man, doin’ the things a particle can…
They Might Be Giants
From: Volker Nadenau nadenau@ipers1.e-technik.uni-stuttgart.de
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 15:58:01 +0200 (MST)
Subject: Re: [86 XJ-S V12] Bad perfromance after cold start and wiper parking questions
On Fri, 14 Jun 1996, Paul Peard wrote:
Dear Paul,
I need some help (again), this weeks problems are:
- After cold (overnight) startup, car has very
little “go” for first 1/4 mile, like foot to the
floor to get up the hill, it doesn’t misfire or
stall just doesn’t go, after I get down the road
and around the corner it just starts to work
properly and then runs fine. Subsequent starts
afterwards, no problems, its only when the engine
is really cold. - I guess a sensor, any clues as
to which one?
I have the same problem since a long time. It is a very difficult problem,
because the cold start hardware has been changed very often. My car is a
XJ12S3
not HE, and it does not have cold start injectors and cold start relay.
The warm up enrichment and enrichment during cranking is done only by
the control of the ECU (longer injection periods). I will check the ECU
during the nexts weeks for this problem.
If you suspect any temperature sensor, it is more likely the water
temperature sensor than the air temperature sensor. The signal has much
more weight in the ECU.
It is very easy to check the sensors by measurement of the resistivity.
The only problem with the water sensor is, that you can only measure
the resistivity at known water temperatures. The workshop manual gives a
table
with the correct values.
Regards
Volker
Volker Nadenau Phone: ++49 711 685 7200
University of Stuttgart Fax : ++49 711 685 7143
Institute for Physical Electronics Internet: nadenau@ipers1.e-technik.uni-stuttgart.de
Pfaffenwaldring 47
70569 Stuttgart
Germany
From: viadata@interramp.com (David Hurlston)
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 09:54:58 -0700
Subject: '91 XJ 40 rear suspension
I am getting to the point where I’d like to fix the choppy ride resulting
from the load-leveller rear shocks.
Starting with the factory conversion kit, is this the sort of thing I could
tackle myself without getting skewered by flying coil springs?
By the way, I can confirm that the XJ40 does NOT use the GM A/C compressor.
(at least mine doesn’t). It uses a horrendously expensive, but small and
efficient Japanese unit - the same that is on my Lotus.
Dave
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Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #151
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jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 15 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 151
A/C & Body Filler
Re: non jag - humourous!!! Jet Assited Take-off (dos and don’ts)
Re: Speedometer.
Cars with and without character (was fiatx1-9
Kienzle Clock Parts?
XJ6 SII door locks.
Staking Down Tappet Guides
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #150
Re[2]: Why two fuel tanks?
'73 E-Type Ballast Resistor Rebuild
Re: bargain xjs
Re: Oil Filters & Steering
Re: Oil Filers & Steering
Re: XJ12 respray
Re: XJ6 SII door locks.
XJC for sale
wiper parking fuse?? and xj6 a/c
Re: Oil Filers & Steering
From: “KENNETH M GILSON” kgilson@ccmail.unl.edu
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 96 10:13:26 CST
Subject: A/C & Body Filler
Just a quick note about air conditioning in general. The drier in
some auto a/c contains silica-gel in the form of granules and when the
sieve happens to break the s/g is now in the system.(Kirby wrote about
this) However this is not a common occurrence, I have seen this once
in my many years. If you go to your local HVAC dealer you can purchase
a solid core desiccant drier to retrofit in the system. Not original
but safe. Also while you are there ask about ICOR "Hot Shot"
refrigerant this is a R-12 "drop in" replacement. Read the
instructions before purchasing it. Yes, you do need a gov't license to
purchase any refrigerant but a little studying and you can get one.
About body filler the reference about Bondo, I think everyone knows
about this product. Another product I use is "All Metal" which is a
excellent water resistant product but it tends to load up your
sandpaper initially and is a little more difficult to work on. Still
another one is called "Kitty Hair" this has glass fibers in it and is
an excellent product and it is also water resistant. Remember, if you
use a filler keep it thin. Lead is the best and is not difficult to
use BUT it is lead. Use caution.
Kenny Gilson
'64 E Type OTS
From: kboetzer@Auspex.Com (Ken Boetzer)
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 08:55:11 -0700
Subject: Re: non jag - humourous!!! Jet Assited Take-off (dos and don’ts)
Good morning,
If it is, I heard it in 1965, a bunch of racers at Riverside were discussing
max acceleration. Then I believe the car was described as imbedded in an
overpass bridge.
Urban legend possibly true,
Ken Boetzer
jag lovers - I got this via a music list - is this a true story?>?
tony
>(source unknown) > >You know about the Darwin Awards -- the annual honor given to the person >who did >the gene pool the biggest service by killing themselves in the most >extraordinarily stupid >way! Last years winner was the guy who was killed by a Coke machine which >toppled >over on top of him as he was attempting to tip a free soda out of it. > >And this years nominee is: > >The Arizona Highway Patrol came upon a pile of smoldering metal embedded >into the side >of a cliff rising above the road at the apex of a curve. The wreckage >resembled the site of >an airplane crash, but it was a car. The type was unidentifiable at the >scene. The lab finally >figured out what it was and what happened. > >It seems that a guy had somehow gotten hold of a JATO UNIT (Jet Assisted >Take Off- >actually a solid fuel rocket) that is used to give heavy military transport >planes an extra > push for taking off from short airfields. He had driven his Chevy Impala >out into the >desert and found a long, straight stretch of road. He attached the JATO >unit to his car, >jumped in, got up some speed and fired off the JATO!!!! > >The facts, as best as could be determined, are that the operator of the >1967 Impala hit the >JATO ignition at a distance of about 3 miles from the crash site. This was >established by >the prominent scorched and melted asphalt at that location. The JATO, if >operating >properly, would have reached maximum thrust within 5 seconds, causing the >Chevy to >reach speeds well in excess of 350 mph, continuing at full power for an >additional 20-25 >seconds. The driver, soon to be pilot, most likely would have experienced >G-forces >usually reserved for dog-fighting F-14 jocks under full afterburners, >basically causing him >to become insignificant for the remainder of the event. However, the >automobile remained on the straight highway for about 2.5 miles(15-20 >seconds) before the driver applied and completely melted the brakes, >blowing the tires and leaving thick rubber marks on the road surface, then >becoming airborne for an additional 1.4 miles and impacting the cliff face >at a height of 125 feet, leaving a crater 3 feet deep in the rock face! > >Most of the driver s remains were not recoverable; however, small fragments >of bone, >teeth and hair were extracted for the crater, and fingernail and bone >shards were removed >form a piece of debris believed to be a portion of the steering wheel. > >Visions of Wyle E. Coyote come to my mind at this point!!!! >------------------------------------------------------------------------------ > >I heard about chevy lumps but…?
Dr. A. Goodall http://www.u-net.com/~goodall/
From: Curt Onstott onstottc@ucs.orst.edu
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 09:00:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Speedometer.
It’s kind of hard to turn and push at the same time. When you get it to
the right spot it will pop out and then you can remove it.
Hi,
Some time ago someone was commenting on how easy it is to remove the
speedo on a XJ6 S2. My trip counter does not work and I want ti fix
it. The person said you just push and turn and it comes out. I have
tried with no sucess. Please explain again.
Thank you.
Pierre 1978 XJ6L
- -To err is human. To err faster and more efficiently requires a computer.-
Curt Onstott - Windows/DOS/PC Specialist - Information Services - Oregon
State University. - (541) 737-1483 - Office: Kerr 217
From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 08:40:12 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Cars with and without character (was fiatx1-9
Keith asks the british-car list…
{I have the opurtunity to buy a Fiat x1-9. Does anyone know anything
{about a X1-9. …is this mailing list a proper place to dicuss Fiat
{probslems and/or questions?
This is most definitely NOT the place to discuss Fiat X1/9’s. But, my
experience owning an X1/9 was so very different from my british car
owning experiences that it’s worth exploring this for a bit…
Moneywise, the X1/9 was one of the best cars I’ve ever owned. Bought on
a whim for $200, fixed up with $200 worth of minor parts, bondo and
spray paint, then sold for $900 to some college kid with more dollars
than sense who just had to have it for a hot date that night. It was
pretty, relatively unique, handled very nicely and gave me an excellent
return on investment.
But, I never found myself able to ever actually like that X1/9. For me,
it had some big shortcomings. First, it was extremely underpowered, to
the point of being no fun. Second, it always seemed kinda flimsy and
not very well made. Third, it was very rustprone. But, by far, it’s
worst problem was that it lacked character and had absolutely no soul.
This is a big deal to me. I tend to anthropomorphize mechanical things
and the ones which take to the characterization become especially dear
to me. The Jaguars I love have hooked me hard with their image of raw
performance matched with sophistication. And no one who watched any of
the 60’s African safari programs as a kid is immune to the lure of an
old sun-faded Land Rover. From the big Jags, Healeys and Aston-Martins,
to any of the sports MG’s, TR’s and Sunbeams, down to the lowliest of
those little ugly-duckling british sedans, there’s something there which
has a hold on us in one way or another, be it though direct interaction
or a simple mental image or some piece of successful marketing by those
doomed companies. I guess that the character which a person paints onto
an inanimate object ultimately springs from their own personal
experience and imagination and I found that I don’t speak Italian.
My Fiat X1/9 distinguished itself by being my only vehicle which never
spoke to me. All my others have. My first car, a big-block muscle car,
was a fire-breathing brute with all the beauty and grace of bashed-up
prizefighter. It could could pass anything but a gas station, break the
tires loose in any gear despite a full load of slightly inebriated
juvenile reprobates and it’s bad-boy looks alone would guarantee picking
up either a smiling young lovely or a scowling police escort on the way
into high school in the morning. My old motorcycle in college, a close
cousin of Pirsig’s little 305 Superhawk, happily existed at the other
end of the spectrum, living on the very edge of total entropic
disintegration, yet never letting me down and teaching me so much.
Then theere was a bathtub SAAB so ugly you couldn’t help liking it. Our
Subaru 4x4 wagon was a tough soldier, taking my wife-to-be and I to cool
places in the mountains and deserts which we never dreamed existed. The
recent Volvo’s have excelled in their honest solid utility and tank-like
safety for schlepping the kids around with a hint of performance when
you get into the turbo.
But my favorites, by far, are the Jaguars. They have always literally
dripped with character and never failed to divert me from the things
which I really should be doing. Like some ordinary bloke who wakes up
one morning to find himself suddenly living with a pouty supermodel, I’m
often still in awe, never quite sure whether to sit back and bask in the
glory of it’s beauty or collapse under the demands of it’s high
maintenance lifestyle. On one day it’ll delight me with a beautiful
high-G blast up the canyons thru the passes to the Continental Divide or
a combat speed run thru the curvy Denver freeways for a night in the
city. The next day it will piss me off by breaking something stupid and
expensive. But, soon it’ll be seducing me again, just sitting there
looking pretty and letting my imagination run wild with all the
possibilities.
But, that Fiat X1/9 was never anything more to me than just a tin can.
Worse than a generic appliance car, which can be appreciated for being
quietly reliable, my X1/9 was totally devoid of character and for that
reason alone I ended up quickly disposing of it with little more thought
or regret than I’d give to tossing an empty soup can into the rubbish.
/\ Lawrence “Now, what was the question again?” Buja
_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
________________Boulder,Colorado___80307-3000
From: Curt Onstott onstottc@ucs.orst.edu
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 10:40:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Kienzle Clock Parts?
Does anybody have a dead Kienzle clock? Mine works fine, but the minute
hand is missing. This is out of a SII XJ6.
- -To err is human. To err faster and more efficiently requires a computer.-
Curt Onstott - Windows/DOS/PC Specialist - Information Services - Oregon
State University. - (541) 737-1483 - Office: Kerr 217
From: Curt Onstott onstottc@ucs.orst.edu
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 10:45:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: XJ6 SII door locks.
What is the most common failure mode for the door locks on the older
XJ6’s? Several of my doors will not lock/unlock. I’ve given up on trying
to use them.
My next door neighbor has the same model and his have failed as well.
- -To err is human. To err faster and more efficiently requires a computer.-
Curt Onstott - Windows/DOS/PC Specialist - Information Services - Oregon
State University. - (541) 737-1483 - Office: Kerr 217
From: Curt Onstott onstottc@ucs.orst.edu
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 10:53:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Staking Down Tappet Guides
I spoke with a Jaguar mechanic the other day about fitting a stake-down
kit. He recommended drilling a hole next to each guide and putting in #14
3/4" slotted sheet-metal screws. Anyone tried this? I’m thinking about
doing it this weekend. I’ve discovered that one of my tappet guides is
loosening.
- -To err is human. To err faster and more efficiently requires a computer.-
Curt Onstott - Windows/DOS/PC Specialist - Information Services - Oregon
State University. - (541) 737-1483 - Office: Kerr 217
From: Ed Mellinger meed@mbari.org
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 12:29:40 -0700
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #150
From: David Covert davecove@microsoft.com
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 06:26:03 -0700In a few weeks I plan to try and start my rebuilt V12 for the first
time. I understand that I need to pre-lube the engine first. What I
don’t understand is how I am supposed to do that.
Hopefully you used assembly lube on your bearing journals and cam lobes.
That IMO should cover 90% of your worries. The day before you start
I’d use a hand oil can (or large syringe) to pump a few pints of oil
into some high point in the lube system (like one of the cam oil lines),
and repeat this just before the big moment. Then (this is
important) take the plugs out, turn the engine over a few times by hand,
then turn it over with the starter until the gauge shows pressure (or
the idiot light goes out) for several seconds, then put the plugs in,
take a deep breath, and fire 'er up.
My guess (after reading Kirby’s manual) is that I need to get one of
those electric aux oil pumps and install it. I also guess that one of
these would be a good thing to have in the first place.
I think pre-lubers are technically elegant, but then every time I get
serious about them (i.e. as I’m about to write the check) I think “hey
wait a minute, my engines last 100-200k miles and I usually rebuild them
because of ring/bore wear or valve guide problems, NOT crank bearing
wear. Maybe the manufacturers have this one figured out”. If passenger
car mean piston speeds were lower and pistons/rings/bores lasted 500k
miles then maybe pre-lubers would pay off… and maybe on some engines
they do anyway. But I just don’t hear that many clunking crank bearings
on modern cars…
just my US$ 0.02…
Ed Mellinger
meed@mbari.org
(no Jag yet… various German metal instead)
From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 15:48:20 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: Why two fuel tanks?
I had no idea it was still April 1st.
Let’s see… where did I leave those boots? It’s getting real deep in
here.
MikeC
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Why two fuel tanks?
Author: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com at INTERNET
Date: 06/13/96 05:43 PM
When I really go fast in left right left corners I can program the high capacity
pump to shove 40 liters in 1.2 second from left to right and vice versa to
dynamically balance the rear for optimum weight balance. Two small mercury
contacts control the direction of fuel in this mode in this mode. another 2 inch
air balance pipe lets air move.
Stay tuned.
Regs Jeffrey Gram
From: Don40799@aol.com
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 16:22:48 -0400
Subject: '73 E-Type Ballast Resistor Rebuild
Having experienced one ballast resistor failure in a �73 E-Type, I decided to
try to rebuild the device to carry as a spare for another �73. Research into
the Jaguar Shop Manual, the broken unit (Lucas Part No. 47229), and the good
unit still in the car (part No. not yet known) has revealed significant
discrepancies between all three designs. Most of the mystery is associated
with the resistances and connections (or lack thereof) between the 4 contacts
nearest the top (bend) of the housing.
Has anyone else tried such a rebuild? If so, I would like to:
(1) confirm the 90 ohm resistance reading between the top two contacts
(2) determine the required power rating for that resistor, and
(3) determine the required power rating for the resistor bridging the top
and middle row of contacts.
Experience, good or bad, of similar rebuilds by others would be interesting
and appreciated.
Don Snyder
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 96 13:43:23 PDT
Subject: Re: bargain xjs
For reference: I recently purchased a 1984 XJ-S H.E. Cobalt Blue
Doeskin interior. The car had some serious fluid leaks, the paint is
cracked, rust above the bumper on drivers rear quarter, boot lid
showing bubbles, aftermarket A/C compressor shot, driver’s chair
cracked leather with split seams, trip computer with an attitude,
original radio works but belts in tape deck worn out, front suspension
worn. In short about what you would expect from a daily driver with
105,000 on the clock fron northern Indiana.
Don’t mean to start a flame, but:
I think this just goes on to show the low build quality of many pre-`90 Jags.
These cars were simply not built with longevity in mind.
Very few cars will experience this number of problems with just 100K miles
on the clock.
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 96 13:56:38 PDT
Subject: Re: Oil Filters & Steering
He also tells me that he will not sell other than the genuine
Jaguar steering rack mounting bushes for the XJ6, because the stiffer after
market bushes have no give and the mounting stanchions crack.
The aftermarket mounting bushes have been shown to work better, and last
just about forever. Don’t use the original bushes. Even Jaguar itself
changed the bushes later!
Now a question. I recently changed the power steering fluid on my XJ40 for
the first time since I bought the car about 15 months ago. The fluid, which
should be ATF was black. What could possibly have been put in the fluid and
why?? Alan.
The power steering fluid for a XJ40 is NOT ATF! It is supposed to be a special
hydraulic mineral oil, available only at the dealer.
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 96 13:59:13 PDT
Subject: Re: Oil Filers & Steering
A.J. Beale wrote:
My Jag parts supplier has told me that, about 2 years ago, Jaguar changed to
a single oil filter for XJ6 S2 & S3, XJ12 and XJ40. The part number is EBC
9658 and this is an anti-drain filter, which minimises the pressurise
build-up time on start up,
Michael Neal wrote:
The info on the filter is correct.
Michael:
So do you think using a Fram filter will harm the engine?
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: Alan Akeister 100705.3012@compuserve.com
Date: 14 Jun 96 16:50:13 EDT
Subject: Re: XJ12 respray
In the early eighties, both Jaguar and Rover SD1 paint shops used, what was
called a “reflow” thermasetting
paint system.
The idea was that the top coat would be applied and then stoved. after that, you
could scuff out the dirt marks, and the body was put back into the oven at a
higher temperature, which then “reflowed” the top coat, giving it a shiny
surface. This was, without a doubt, one of the stupidest idea’s that the Rover
Group had.
The problem was that the top coat after reflow, went brittle, and within a short
period, stone chips removed the top coat from vunerable areas such as the
bonnet(hood) and sills.
The best system for top coat is a air-drying base coat, with a clear-coat
(laquer) applied when the base coat is dry. this gives depth to the paint
finish, with less thickness required. In production, the clear coat is stoved,
but you can get air-drying versions.
Just as an aside, White cars are the fastest, as you need less thickness of the
paint to get the opacity, Black is the worst, as they weigh ever so slightly
more than white!!!
Alan Akeister
From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 18:02:56 +0100
Subject: Re: XJ6 SII door locks.
At 10:45 AM 14/06/96 -0700, you wrote:
What is the most common failure mode for the door locks on the older
XJ6’s? Several of my doors will not lock/unlock. I’ve given up on trying
to use them. - Curt Onstott -
Curt,
First I will tell you that I know zero about XJ’s, period.
My E-Type is just at the last few screws of being completed and
the door locks were driving me nutzo…having to find the handle,
(somehwhere on the floor) fit it on the inside then open the door.
I finally took the damn things home and took them apart on the dining
table, re-assembled them about four different times till I got it right
and now they work perfectly with only one new part ($18,000. or
thereabouts, -I know, I got a deal, but the numbers match!)
Point is, if you can take your door panels off you should be able to
see if you can remove the handles. Most likely culprit is the link, either
broken (not likely) but probably the spring clip has broken or simple
dropped off.
I think this is the first thing I’ve been able to repair myself!
Anybody need a tune?
Hope it helps.
Charles Daly
'62 E-Type, ots
From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 18:10:50 +0100
Subject: XJC for sale
Hi all,
My mechanic has a 1977 XJC (Coupe, quite rare,
only made two years. Of course it’s a two door,
pillarless car. 4.2 engine. A nice metalic dark green,
(not BRG) with tan vinyl top (standard)
I know nothing about the car except it looks nice!
He says the a/c doesn’t work but the car runs well.
He’s looking for $10k CDN (prob. about $7200.US)
That’s all I know about it, for what it’s worth.
Charles Daly
From: cci@intex.net (Reginald J. G. Heber)
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 18:06:30 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: wiper parking fuse?? and xj6 a/c
Good rainy, bring the system down with lightning, afternoon to you all,
Just got back to Dallas TX from Austin this 90+ degree afternoon. Have fixed
some of the a/c’s problems but on this trip new symptom reared its ugly
head. Leaving Austin, a/c seemed ok. 30 miles out it switched to HEAT. DID
NOT need more heat, had plenty thank you. Piddled with all available knobs
and suitable epithets, no good. Turned on the aux 2-70 a/c unit (2 windows
open, 70 mph). Tried a/c about 10 minutes later. It worked, glory, glory.
8 min later it switched to heat again. Passed the remaining 150 miles with
decreasing cooling cycle times with sorta consistent 10 min ‘recovery’ time.
Cooling cycle was down to about 1 min by the time we reached Dallas.
Is this the amplifier screaming to be replaced? The temp sensor in the dash
going bonkers (or being cooled by a behind-the-dash cool air leak causing it
to send the “I’m cold message”)?
It’s amazing how many a/c problems have shown up in j-l-d since summer
arrived!!!
re the wiper-park-fuse. Wasn’t there a note about such a thing in an
earlier msg? Anyone remember a) the answer or b) which j-l-d # it was in?
I’ve done a keyword search of all the j-l-d that I’ve saved and can’t find it.
Any & all help will be appreciated! Any, again, thanks to all who offered
help on other topics.
Regards, Jon Heber
140, 150, xj6c
From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 16:39:59 -0700
Subject: Re: Oil Filers & Steering
Roger,
I wouldn’t personally use a Fram filter. The metal casing is about
1/3 as thick as the Jaguar filters. The anti-drainback valve doesn’t
seem to seal as well and they are just a cheaply made filter. Buy
yourself a case of factory filters and a little peace of mind.
Michael:
So do you think using a Fram filter will harm the engine?
–
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
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Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #152
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jag-lovers-digest Sunday, 16 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 152
Re: XJ12 respray(Alan Akeister)
Re: Oil Filters & Steering
Re: '91 XJ 40 rear suspension
Alloy XK120
Re: '91 XJ 40 rear suspension
Aussie wants Jag.
Re: Oil Filters & Steering
Re: Alloy XK120
The index in the digest is GREAT!
Re: Webers and Gas-flowed heads for non-HE V12s
Re: Webers and Gas-flowed heads
87 XJ6 brake rotors
Re: Staking Down Tappet Guides
Re: 87 XJ6 brake rotors
MKI suspension…
Re: XJC for sale
Worst things on a Jaguar XJ40
Re: Lead or Bondo
Erratic '89 XJ6 Odometer
XK Engine Questions
Re: XJC for sale/Steve A.
Re: Erratic '89 XJ6 Odometer
From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 21:12:08 +0100
Subject: Re: XJ12 respray(Alan Akeister)
At 04:50 PM 14/06/96 EDT, you wrote: (in part)
Just as an aside, White cars are the fastest, as you need less thickness of the
paint to get the opacity, Black is the worst, as they weigh ever so slightly
more than white!!! >Alan Akeister
Now I suppose Alan is trying to get that dumb thread about “white
cars are faster!” Who ever started that, anyway?
Thanks, Alan
Charles Daly
'62 E-Type, ots
(uh…forget the colour)
From: ajbeale@squirrel.com.au (A.J. Beale)
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 11:45:16 -0700
Subject: Re: Oil Filters & Steering
Roger Peng writes:-
The power steering fluid for a XJ40 is NOT ATF! It is supposed to be a special
hydraulic mineral oil, available only at the dealer.
Not so, Roger. You are thinking about the “Power Hydraulic System” which is
part of the brake system and uses only Castrol Hydraulic System Mineral Oil.
The power steering fluid is ATF. Alan
From: ajbeale@squirrel.com.au (A.J. Beale)
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 11:54:54 -0700
Subject: Re: '91 XJ 40 rear suspension
I am getting to the point where I’d like to fix the choppy ride resulting
from the load-leveller rear shocks.
Dave, the load levelling was discontinued in XJ40s some time in 1988. The
90 and later cars did not have it. Probably the only difference this makes
is that you shouldn’t have to do a conversion. The way to check that your
car doesn’t have load levelling is to look at the power hydraulic system
valve. Load leveller cars had a connection to the rear of this valve.
Later ones did not. Alan
From: jamesc@oasis.novia.net (jc)
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 21:00:21 -0500
Subject: Alloy XK120
To All
Received a letter from a gentleman,referred by a friend. He owns Lhd
Chassis 670042 XK120 with matching engine and gearbox. I spoke with him on
the phone today and he is interested in selling it and wanted information.
The car has been apart for sometime but apparently has all of the bits. It
has been stripped to bare aluminum and is reported to have no corrosion or
wood rot. The car is literally in boxes and the aluminum has been removed
from the ash wood… It sounds like it needs everything and then some.
His questions included:
- Is there a large following for the alloy cars and does this make it
more valuable? - What is it worth in current condition?
- Wants to sell it without a broker. What is the best way to do this?
I told him I would take an unofficial internet pole and relay the responses.
Jim Canedy SS100,120 racer, 150s,EX2,MK VII,MK V
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 19:48:20 -0700
Subject: Re: '91 XJ 40 rear suspension
Actually the load levelling suspension was used at least until '91. I would have to
check on the exact year. The '90 base model XJ6 used standard shocks.
A.J. Beale wrote:
I am getting to the point where I’d like to fix the choppy ride resulting
from the load-leveller rear shocks.
Dave, the load levelling was discontinued in XJ40s some time in 1988. The
90 and later cars did not have it. Probably the only difference this makes
is that you shouldn’t have to do a conversion. The way to check that your
car doesn’t have load levelling is to look at the power hydraulic system
valve. Load leveller cars had a connection to the rear of this valve.
Later ones did not. Alan
From: Michael Sutcliffe mgs@netspace.net.au
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 13:27:39 +0000
Subject: Aussie wants Jag.
Having driven a Merc for 24 years my ambition to own a Jag is now nagging
me. I rather fancy a late model XJ12/S111 as I think it would be within
my budget. I live in Melbourne, Australia and would love to correspond
with advisors to help me identify a good model to purchase and ultimately
a suitable car itself. If any one knows of local maintenance
organisations willing to discuss my dream car, advice in this area would
also be appreciated.
I want to believe that the V12 large capacity engine would be a lazy
engine and perhaps not thrashed too much, is this realistic?? The real
reason I guess is that it would have to be the ultimate engine but I cant
tell my wife that!
Look forward to some email comments, thanks,
Mike mgs@netspace.net.au
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 19:58:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Oil Filters & Steering
I’m going to stress once more that it is very important not to generalize on this
list. Unless you know what range the topic applies to, don’t give out
misinformation. Remember that the XJ40 model range has been around form more than a
few years and changes were made every year.
Let’s get this straight before someone screws up their car! The power steering
fluid for the early XJ40s that used the small reservoir and had Bosch ABS used
ATF!!! The later Teves ABS equipped cars used HSMO and have a large combo reservoir
for the power steering and levelling system. Basically, if you have a green HSMO
reservoir at the right front corner of the engine compartment then use ATF for your
steering in the small reservoir, not the HSMO reservoir.
A.J. Beale wrote:
Roger Peng writes:-
The power steering fluid for a XJ40 is NOT ATF! It is supposed to be a special
hydraulic mineral oil, available only at the dealer.
Not so, Roger. You are thinking about the “Power Hydraulic System” which is
part of the brake system and uses only Castrol Hydraulic System Mineral Oil.
The power steering fluid is ATF. Alan
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 21:20:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Alloy XK120
You wrote:
To All
Received a letter from a gentleman,referred by a friend. He owns
Lhd
Chassis 670042 XK120 with matching engine and gearbox. I spoke with
him on
the phone today and he is interested in selling it and wanted
information.
Yes, indeed I had an email note from him today and also spoke to him at
length… they want 33.5k USD for the car missing guages and seats but
having the original windscreen.
His questions included:
- Is there a large following for the alloy cars and does this make
it more valuable?
He has done his research…
- What is it worth in current condition?
He wants 33.5K USD …marginal purchase…
- Wants to sell it without a broker. What is the best way to do
this?
I think he is selling it for his friend … he is publisher of a Porsche
newsletter…
We are looking at it … but with a $70k restoration it is priced at
its net value and not below…
Pictures coming…
tony
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
From: havoc@pacifier.com (Jade Barrett)
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 1996 23:04:28 -0800
Subject: The index in the digest is GREAT!
Thanks to everyone who is putting meaningful subjects on their postings,
I can now enjoy reading JagLovers again.
Kay Barrett
'67 420 (driver)
From: Melanie Brackett brackett@uwimona.edu.jm
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 01:47:49 -0500 (GMT-0500)
Subject: Re: Webers and Gas-flowed heads for non-HE V12s
Peter,
I think there is a person in Jolly ol’ England you should talk to.
His name is Ron Beatty and he owns a place called Forward Engineering. He
spent about thirteen years at Jaguar Engineering, he joined another
jaguarphile named David Johnson (founder) at Forward Engineering; has
been the owner since 1967.
He specializes in the Xk and V12 Engines from Jaguar. Currently has
kits that transform Jaguar performance… eg, for all you wanna be hot
rodders and lump lovers, he has a kit for the V12 that increases
displacement from 5.3 or 6.0 to 8.2 litres !! (500 C.I.) and delivers a
butt busting 475 lb ft at 1500 rpm…
Forward Engineering Co. Ltd, Meriden Works, Birmingham Road,
Allesly, Coventry CV5 9AZ … Tel 0676 23526 Fax: 0676 22942…
Mario James
Soon to be injected and turbocharged '72 XJ6 2.8 (Series I)
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 05:26:36 -0700
Subject: Re: Webers and Gas-flowed heads
You wrote:
Peter,
I think there is a person in Jolly ol’ England you should talk
to. His name is Ron Beatty and he owns a place called Forward
Engineering.
Folks…
Whoa…be advised that we know Ron and have worked with him in the
past… His work is not the same today … Please be careful… there are
many other folks who are current and well known … such as Renaissance
Cars and Rob Beere … We would recommend dealing with these builders
or others on this subject …
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
From: Robert Hyndman bhyndman@niia.net
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 09:59:52 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: 87 XJ6 brake rotors
I need front brakes and have been checking prices from various suppliers
listed in Hemmings and the local Jag dealership. On front rotors I found
prices ranging from $29.95 each (Special Interest Car Parts) to $129.95 each
(Jag dealer) and everything in between.
My question is, does the old addage " If it sounds too good to be true, it
probably is" hold true with after market parts? What is the difference
between a OEM brake rotor and a aftermarket rotor, besides one having Jaguar
cast into it?
I do not want to cut corners on my brake system, but I do not wish to
throw my hard earned money away on a name, if it’s no better than the
others. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Bob
'87 XJ6
'52 MG-TD
From: “BJ Kroppe” wkroppe@ford.com
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 11:21:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Staking Down Tappet Guides
Curt Onstatt wrote:
spoke with a Jaguar mechanic the other day about fitting a stake-down
kit. He recommended drilling a hole next to each guide and putting in #14
3/4" slotted sheet-metal screws. Anyone tried this?
My vote is for the proper stakedown kit offered by most of the main mail order
Jaguar parts shops (SICP, XK’s Unlimited, Terry’s, etc.). The kit consists
of a plate which has a “lip” which partially overlaps the rim of the tappet
guide.
The plate straddles two tappets guides (therefore three plates are needed per
cam bank) and each plate has two screws which are tapped into the aluminum
cylinder head. The kit is about US$30 for three plates (?).
I have this setup on my '82 XJ6, unleaded fuel, fuel injected. Seems the loose
tappet guides are more of a problem in the unleaded cars. If your car doesn’t
have this setup, I suggest a machine shop put it in. I know a brave soul on
this
list described his experience with a hand held drill and drill guide, but I
don’t
have the courage or risk tolerance to carry out this operation.
My personal view is to avoid the kit your mechanic described.
B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6
From: radiowsh@mindport.net (Vincent Chrzanowski)
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 18:15:10 GMT
Subject: Re: 87 XJ6 brake rotors
On Sat, 15 Jun 1996 09:59:52 -0500 (CDT), Robert Hyndman wrote:
I need front brakes and have been checking prices from various suppliers
listed in Hemmings and the local Jag dealership. On front rotors I found
prices ranging from $29.95 each (Special Interest Car Parts) to $129.95 each
(Jag dealer) and everything in between.
My question is, does the old addage " If it sounds too good to be true, it
probably is" hold true with after market parts? What is the difference
between a OEM brake rotor and a aftermarket rotor, besides one having Jaguar
cast into it?
I do not want to cut corners on my brake system, but I do not wish to
throw my hard earned money away on a name, if it’s no better than the
others. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Bob
'87 XJ6
'52 MG-TD
Two years ago I purchased four new rotors of the $29.95 variety for my
'85 XJ-S. Within three months of installation, three had warped and
required re-turning. The fourth rotor developed what the brake man
called a “hot spot” which, although it was not warped, caused a severe
thumping whenever the brakes were applied.
If I had it to do all over again, I’d opt for the quality (read: high
priced) rotors. One way or another, you’re gonna pay.
Vince
Vince Chrzanowski radiowsh@mindport.net
“There is not a moment to be lost” - Jack Aubrey
From: jorgen@tvnorge.no (Jorgen Scheel)
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 21:06:18 +0100
Subject: MKI suspension…
Hi there Jaggers!
I have not contributed with much here yet (except for some tools for
Nick…), but I am watching you!
My MKI thats just about runable (yaeh right!), mainly I need some new
dampers (shocks?) and springs (I think).
The qustion is if anybody knows which, if any, standard shocks fits. The
ones at the Norwegian Jaguar dealer are expensive and they even have to
order them.
Acording to the parts guy (of course) these shocks are VEEERYY special and
must be ordered from Jaguar…
Has anyone seen complete bush/ball kits for my MKI? That would probably come
out cheaper than ordering them one at a time.
Well thanks guys (and girls?)
MK1 -59
jorgen@tvnorge.no
From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 15:12:56 -0400
Subject: Re: XJC for sale
Charles Daly writes about a 1977 XJC:
CD> Coupe, quite rare, only made two years. Of course it’s a
CD> two door, pillarless car. 4.2 engine. A nice metalic dark green,
CD> (not BRG) with tan vinyl top (standard)
CD> He’s looking for $10k CDN (prob. about $7200.US)
Coupes were made for three years (1975-1977). I don’t think that the tan
vinyl top was standard. BLACK vinyl tops were standard. If the car runs
well & the body’s good, that isn’t a bad price. About the same price as I
paid for mine 12 years ago & somewhat less than I see most listed for sale
at. Is the dark metallic green an original color? I don’t recollect having
seen a mid seventies XJ in that color.
-Steve A.
'67 E Type
'76 XJ6C
'91 XJ40
From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 15:12:56 -0400
Subject: Worst things on a Jaguar XJ40
Lloyd Nolan writes:
LN> How about those neat seat belts that retract automatically
LN> when you close the door?
That one’s about the most irritating one to me about the XJ40 as sold in the
US. The stupid mouse track on my '91 XJ40 is a model of bone headed design.
It doesn’t offer ANY more safety than a 3 point system since you have to do
the lap belt manually anyway but it makes sure that the buzzer will always
chime & operates at inconvenient times. It was one thing that made me
seriously think about buying something OTHER than a XJ40.
-Steve A.
PS: Any economical way to retrofit REASONABLE 3 point belts to these cars?
I didn’t think so.
BTW, that dopey automatic shoulder belt was the only thing on my XJ40 that
wasn’t working right when I bought the car. Had to take it in twice before
it was fixed (had that in writing & it’s covered by Jaguar’s warranty,
supposedly for life). I thought I might have to take it in a THIRD time, but
it got its idiot senses back together.
From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 15:13:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Lead or Bondo
Daniel S. Hayes writes:
DH> …lead loading has thus far come up short.
DH>
DH> Those body people (they do allot of British car work) I have talked
DH> to seem to think bondo will do just fine. Further, I have heard
DH> rumor of a new type of bondo that has an aluminum content.
Leading is the best in the hands of a true artiste, but is extremely touchy
when you’re leading a reverse curve. I’d NEVER try to lead a reverse curve
again like that on top of the E Type bulkhead (no decent backside access,
either). The heat from the tinning & lead makes the metal deform inwards
further, requiring more lead & more heat & more lead. Sometimes bondo IS
better. For most repairs, though, lead gives you a better surface and good
integrity of the repair since you’re getting an intermetallic joint
(steel-tin-lead/tin).
Bondo with aluminum content has been around for a long time. I seem to
recollect using some back in the early 80’s. I don’t remember it being real
superior, just a bit easier to sand properly.
Bottom line: used in small amounts (thin, & small spots), bondo won’t be a
problem to either you or any subsequent owner. Used in large quantities,
either bondo OR lead can be a problem. This isn’t something to agonize over.
I’d use lead if I was doing my own car (it IS more labor intensive) but
wouldn’t object to bondo at all in the hands of a competent body shop.
-Steve A.
From: Kevin Campbell kcampbel@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 13:54:53 -0700
Subject: Erratic '89 XJ6 Odometer
My speedo works just fine, but the odometer only increments occasionally.
Some times it’ll be OK for a couple of miles, then you can go a day or two with
no change.
Anyone have any thoughts? The dealer answer ($980 US for a new instrument panel)
is less than appealing. I’m tempted to try and get the thing out (however
one does that) and check for dirty/loose contacts and/or dry joints.
Thanks in advance,
Kevin
From: Kroppe kroppe@mich.com
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 01:42:48 -0400
Subject: XK Engine Questions
Greetings All -
I’m dismantling my 4.2L block and have some questions:
-
How do you remove the distributor driven gear and shaft?
The shaft has a square end upon which a 3/8" open end spanner will
fit and a 7/8" hex right below it. I’ve tried two wrenches on the
end of the shaft (3/8 and 7/8) and can’t get it to budge. I’m afraid
I’ll break something. -
How do you remove the intermediate timing gear from its shaft?
This is the gear at the top of the lower chain, or bottom of the upper
chain. It looks like there is a retaining ring which holds the gear
onto the shaft, but I can’t see how to get the retaining ring off. -
What is the best way to remove the woodruff key from the front end
of the crankshaft? I need to do this to remove the crankshaft timing
gear. I’ve tried lightly tapping the key with a cold chisel and
no go. Maybe vise grips and pull hard, but that will butcher the key. -
Upon re-assembly, how do you adjust the chain guides properly? I
noticed in disassembly that there is a lot of adjustment available
in the chain guide-to-block attachment hole (slot). Do you just
butt the guide up to the chain, or is there a specification?
From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 18:39:46 +0100
Subject: Re: XJC for sale/Steve A.
I hope my caveat was clear enough in my post
re: the XJC.
I haven’t driven the car; I don’t own the car;
I don’t want to own the car.
Just thought I would pass on the info as I saw/
heard it. The car seems to run nicely and it looks
sharp. I have absolutely no idea if the tan/biscuit
whatever coloured top is orig. or not. Nor do I
know anything about the paint being orig. or not.
Jag Enthusiast Mag. lists at least three 4.2’s for sale in
the UK currently, all with black tops. $8-12k CDN.
That’s all she wrote.
Charles Daly
'62 E-Type, ots
Coupes were made for three years (1975-1977). I don’t think that the tan
vinyl top was standard. BLACK vinyl tops were standard. If the car runs
well & the body’s good, that isn’t a bad price. About the same price as I
paid for mine 12 years ago & somewhat less than I see most listed for sale
at. Is the dark metallic green an original color? I don’t recollect having
seen a mid seventies XJ in that color. -Steve A.
From: arnie@qnet.com (Ted Arnold)
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 15:51:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Erratic '89 XJ6 Odometer
My speedo works just fine, but the odometer only increments occasionally.
Some times it’ll be OK for a couple of miles, then you can go a day or two
with
no change.
About 2 weeks ago my front panel gauges started to work eratically. First
the speedo stopped functioning. Then, the “miles left on the tank” stopped
working. Next, the odometer started to not work; all of these things
intermitently, and not all at the same time. Problem, (around $250 with
labor to fix), a bad fuel sensor. It’s fairly complex, lots of wires,
although only one connector to the computer. Have your mechanic check it out.
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #152
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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 17 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 153
A/C Controls (Continuing problem…)
Re: '91 XJ 40 rear suspension
Service Centres in Melbourne
More E-Type Stories
1980 XJ6 Window Trim
XJC; XK120 alloy
1950s Lucas parts & Others
Re: '91 XJ 40 rear suspension
XJS Air con amplifier - Where is it?
XJS 1989 Radio Removal
Wire wheel knock-ons: Germany
XJS Convertible Hess & Eisenhardt
Re: Webers and Gas-flowed heads for non-HE V12s
Re: Webers and Gas-flowed heads V12 Es
Re: '91 XJ 40 rear suspension
Re: 8.2 liters is not 8.2 liters
Re: Alloy XK120
Re: GM40 shift points/steering rack
Re: XJS Oil Pressure Relief Valve
Re: $75 oil pressure sender or $75 labor.
From: Denny Alford alforkd@occ-uky.campus.mci.net
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 20:14:38 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: A/C Controls (Continuing problem…)
I have lost the “Automatic” Heating/AC control system functions in my '83
XJ6 SIII. I can switch fan speeds manualy. The A/C compressor is engaging
and pumping normally. All fuses test O.K.
Unit always blows hot now. I’ve taken things down to the Water Temp.
Thermo-Switch (checked out o.k.) and just got the dash appart to investigate
the in car sensor (thermistor ?).
Questions are;
(1) How to test the thermistor? (It shows continuity, but with high
resistance.)
(2) Other possible causes/remedies?
Quirks, and maintenance aside, these cars are masterpieces, and a joy to drive!
Thanks for any assistance,
Denny Alford
'83 XJ6 SIII
From: ajbeale@squirrel.com.au (A.J. Beale)
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 1996 12:08:19 -0700
Subject: Re: '91 XJ 40 rear suspension
Michael Neal wrote:-
Actually the load levelling suspension was used at least until '91. I
would have to
check on the exact year. The '90 base model XJ6 used standard shocks.
Michael, from what you have written in the past, I would normally take what
you say as indisputable fact, but you now have me completely confused. My
XJ40 Sovereign was built in December, 1988 and does not have load levelling
rear suspension. It’s history does not indicate that it ever did have load
levelling and the valve is of the post load levelling type. If the base
model '90 XJ6 also did not have load levelling, then what did have load
levelling “at least until '91”. I know that cars sold in Australia were to
different specs than those sold in U.S., but I didn’t think that the
differences were significant. If there are differences, these should be
sorted out or others will be as confused as I am. Alan.
From: Peter Rebbechi <"REBBECHI PETER"@A1.MEOC02.SNO.mts.dec.com>
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 1996 02:05:00 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: Service Centres in Melbourne
I have used 3 places for my car (88 XJ40, which coincidentally is for sale).
- City Prestige - Ron Sells, 03 93281777, 54-58 Harcourt Street North
Melbourne. He has done all servicing on my car for last 3 years. Takes a lot
of care, will warn you about things that will need replacing/repairing next
service, gives lots of advice, and doesn’t charge the earth. Also has a
pickup/dropoff service. - Graham Ratcliff motors - 03 9870 8280, 7 Eugene Terrace Ringwood. Small
business, lots of care, highly recommended. Also has a loan car service.
Respected by other mechanics. - V & A Spiteri - Vic Spiteri 039899 4851, 34 Joseph Street Blackburn,
Probably the most respected Jag mechanic, but also the most expensive. I had
him redo the engine when it overheated. Very good work, but be prepared to pay
extra dollars for his work.
there are probably others, but with good experiences with all three of these, I
have had no reason to go elsewhere. I try wherever possible to have City
Prestige do the work, because the guy knows all about my car, good and bad. He
has not advised me wrongly yet.
Good hunting! Perhaps Rob Dingli, Chris Sleeman, myself and yours truly can
get together with our own ‘Melbourne Jag Lovers’!
From: “George W. Cohn” gwcohn@azstarnet.com
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 20:12:52 -0700
Subject: More E-Type Stories
Some thirty years ago as I was driving my E OTS down the road in a
sweltering 115 degree day in July with the top down. I hit a small bump
and the wipers came on! Not a cloud in the sky and here’s this idiot
with three wipers swishing back and forth! The wiper switch wasn’t on
and I couldn’t make them stop! I finally pulled over to the side of the
road and raised the blades off the glass so as not to scratch it. After
I got home, I found that the wiper parking switch part of the mechanism
had shorted out. (I don’t know why I didn’t think of the fuse at the
time).
Want to know why there are no famous English astronauts? They got in
their first space vehicle, saw all the controls were marked “Made by
Lucas” and ran screaming from the launch pad!
From: Tommy loner@peterboro.net
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 1996 00:19:45 -0400
Subject: 1980 XJ6 Window Trim
Hey, All!
Can anyone advise me how to remove the chrome trim strips from the rear =
doors of a 1980 XJ6. These trim pieces are located on the exterior top =
edges of the rear door panels and finish the openings where the window =
glass travels. They are not part of the window frames as such, but =
appear to be fastened to the door panels.
The front doors have similar pieces of trim but they're fastened =
differently. On the front doors they are attached by screws behind =
triangular caps that finish the forward most window glass area. The rear =
doors don’t have these triangular caps.
I'm hoping to remove this trim so I can do a respray this week. =
Hopefully I won’t have to remove any window glass from the doors. I’ll =
be damned if I can figure it out, though.
Any advice?
Tommy.
loner@peterboro.net
From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@compuserve.com
Date: 16 Jun 96 02:18:50 EDT
Subject: XJC; XK120 alloy
XJC Values in Australia - reasonable roadgoing cars around $16-$24k Aus
(= c $13-$19k US). I have the impression that in recent years the V12s have
overtaken the 6s in price (used to be the opposite). Anyone else notice this?
Re 670042, alloy XK120. I have a recorded owner for this car as being
Edward Botsford of Carmel, CA. Being in 1,000 pieces, it is a huge restoration
job. Sure, the cars do have a cult following. A few years ago a couple of
Englishmen arrived in Australia determined to buy every alloy car they could
find (as they were RHD here, and we had 21 of the original 58), and took back 2
or 3 of them (002, 009 ex NZ, and one other I think). The story re 002 was in
Jaguar World recently. It was said to have been sold for AUD 200,000 approx.
What’s 670042 worth? Anthony has answered that i.e. the mindboggling
restoration cost cannot be ignored. For private sale, as the car has
international appeal, he should definitely advertise it in international
publications like Jaguar World.
John Elmgreen
From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@compuserve.com
Date: 16 Jun 96 02:37:28 EDT
Subject: 1950s Lucas parts & Others
I recently received from Jamie Fiffles a 1954 Lucas catalogue, which is a
gold mine of trivial information re XK originality.
Is there anyone who might have a later edition e.g. about 1960? Or any
other catalogues from other suppliers to Jaguar of component parts e.g. Wilmot
Breeden? suppliers of fasteners? etc. They would be invaluable if I could
either borrow them or obtain photocopies. Any assistance appreciated.
Regards, John Elmgreen
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 23:27:48 -0700
Subject: Re: '91 XJ 40 rear suspension
Unfortunately I wouldn’t know about Australian models, generally they seemed to
be the same as the U.S. I do have to question the “post load levelling type valve”.
When the U.S. cars did not come with the load levelling they came with Teves ABS
brakes that did not require a valve block. What kind of cobbed together cars are
they feeding you guys down under. Seriously, I think a VIN based chart needs to
be rounded up here.
A.J. Beale wrote:
Michael Neal wrote:-
Actually the load levelling suspension was used at least until '91. I
would have to
check on the exact year. The '90 base model XJ6 used standard shocks.Michael, from what you have written in the past, I would normally take what
you say as indisputable fact, but you now have me completely confused. My
XJ40 Sovereign was built in December, 1988 and does not have load levelling
rear suspension. It’s history does not indicate that it ever did have load
levelling and the valve is of the post load levelling type. If the base
model '90 XJ6 also did not have load levelling, then what did have load
levelling “at least until '91”. I know that cars sold in Australia were to
different specs than those sold in U.S., but I didn’t think that the
differences were significant. If there are differences, these should be
sorted out or others will be as confused as I am. Alan.
From: “Richard.Mansell” Richard.Mansell@psemail.ps.net
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 22:49:00 +0100
Subject: XJS Air con amplifier - Where is it?
I want to adjust the range of the temperature control knob on the air
conditioning of my new 89 XJ-S 5.3.
I discovered the tip from Olov Carlsson in Kirby's brilliant XJ-S book
regarding adjusting the air-con amplifier.
I had a quick practice on my retired 1983 XJ-S and amazingly you can
adjust the range quite a bit. If only I had know about this 7 years
ago when I bought my first XJ-S, I only ever seem to use the 65-75
degree range and some days 65 is not cold enough.
With confidence I started on my 89 XJ-S, I took the left hand console
side panel off to find that the amplifier is hiding. Is it my eyes or
has the amplifier been relocated.
The latest manual I have only goes up to 1987 and the amplifier is
still in the same place then.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Richard Mansell
richard.mansell@ps.net
From: “Richard.Mansell” Richard.Mansell@psemail.ps.net
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 22:30:00 +0100
Subject: XJS 1989 Radio Removal
I have just purchased a 1989 XJ-S 5.3 and would like to change the
cassette radio for a more modern unit. The radio is the original
Jaguar item.
I have taken off the air conditioning control panel to get better
access to be confronted with what appears to be 4 rivets holding down
the mounting brackets of the stereo.
Before I start drilling out the rivets have I missed something????
Any tips or advice would be much appreciated. I do not want to deface
the car unnecessarily.
Richard Mansell
richard.mansell@ps.net
From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@compuserve.com
Date: 16 Jun 96 08:43:30 EDT
Subject: Wire wheel knock-ons: Germany
The Service Bulletin from Jaguar #263 (April 1959) says that cars now in
production were fitted with special knock on hub caps to comply with German
regulations. They had shorter lugs and needed a special tool for
removal/replacement. A copper mallet was used. Has anyone ever seen the knock
ons and the tool? I would really appreciate being able to gets photos or
sketches. Regards, John Elmgreen
From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 1996 09:54:16 -0400
Subject: XJS Convertible Hess & Eisenhardt
I remember one or two people asking why/if some of the Hess & Eisenhardt
factory conversions of the XJS started from Cabriolets. Nobody could think
of a good reason why one would convert a cabriolet rather than a coupe.
Well, I think I might have found a reason - Dick Guevin of Britsh Auto sent
me a drawing of a chassis stiffening brace fitted under the rear end of his
XJS cabriolet. Supposedly this was factory installed. If so,this would be a
very good reason why the cabriolet would be a better model to convert to a
full convertible.
Can the cabriolet XJS owners vouch for the originality of such a chassis
stiffener under the rear end?
Julian Mullaney
'87 XJS Convertible (Hess & Eisenhardt)
From: p.hyslop@utoronto.ca (p.hyslop)
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 1996 13:50:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Webers and Gas-flowed heads for non-HE V12s
From: Melanie Brackett brackett@uwimona.edu.jm
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 01:47:49 -0500 (GMT-0500)
Subject: Re: Webers and Gas-flowed heads for non-HE V12sPeter,
I think there is a person in Jolly ol’ England you should talk to…Mario James
Soon to be injected and turbocharged '72 XJ6 2.8 (Series I)From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 05:26:36 -0700
Subject: Re: Webers and Gas-flowed heads
Dear Mario and Tony (and others),
Thanks for the information. Several people have suggested
engineering shops capable of doing the work (unfortunately none so far from
North America … hint, hint, hint).
What I am actually finding a little bit scary is that so far no one
has directly said “I have installed 6 Webers, gas-flowed the heads and
installed slightly wilder cams in my V-12, and the results were …”.
Does this mean:
-
it can’t be done easily (I doubt this);
-
that it’s do-able, but the result is an uncontrollable monster that is
difficult to drive or which needs a PhD in mechanical engineering in order
to keep the Webers in tune etc.; or -
does it mean that it’s so successful that those that have done it either
never need log into the Jag-lovers net or simply want to keep it a close
personal secret?The issues of tractibility of the end-product for fast street usage
and which shops have done a competent installation of this before are
actually non-trivial points.
Clearly, if the general view of the Jag community is disfavourable
to the utility of this type of performance upgrade/conversion for fast
street use then I’d better re-think the matter.
Any thoughts greatly appreciated.
Peter
'74 XKE-V12 Roadster
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 1996 13:51:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Webers and Gas-flowed heads V12 Es
Hi
I just saw your reply and my recommendation would be to chat with Lou
Fidanza at Gran Turismo in Eastlake OH … I think he bought the
Huffacher car or the Group 44 back up car and he has had some pretty
good experience in this field…
all the best
tony
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
From: ajbeale@squirrel.com.au (A.J. Beale)
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 08:39:52 -0700
Subject: Re: '91 XJ 40 rear suspension
Michael Neal wrote:
Unfortunately I wouldn’t know about Australian models, generally they
seemed to
be the same as the U.S. I do have to question the “post load levelling
type valve”.
When the U.S. cars did not come with the load levelling they came with
Teves ABS
brakes that did not require a valve block. What kind of cobbed together
cars are
they feeding you guys down under. Seriously, I think a VIN based chart
needs to
be rounded up here.
My parts supplier advised me that the XJ40s with load levelling had a port
in the rear of the power hydraulic system valve which connected to the rear
suspension units. On conversion to non-load levelling, this port was
plugged. On the next model, without load levelling, the port was excluded
from the valve. I do not know about the next model after that, but could
probably find out. I do have enough information to know that there were
some differences between the North American and Australian cars, apart from
the obvious ones of left and right hand drives. For example, all 3.6 litre
XJ40s except those supplied to North America had a Lucas A133-80 alternator
and a Lucas 3M100 pre-engaged starter. NA cars had a Bosch N1 14V 34/90A
alternator and a Bosch DW1.7K gear reduced starter. I will sort out some
more details and send them as soon as I can. Alan.
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 16 Jun 96 19:00:47 EDT
Subject: Re: 8.2 liters is not 8.2 liters
Ron Beaty and Forward Engineering has been known for many years.
Unfortunately he did not have time to teach his son any manners in terms of
honesty with customers.
You can speculate why his son didn’t pick up the good manners.
Said plainly be careful with Richard Beaty and Lionheart engineering in
Nuneaton, Warwickshire. You don’t want to go through what I did as a fresh
Jaguar owner 7 years ago, ever. Wouldn’t drive within 5 miles of this guy.
Enough said
Regs J.Gram
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 16 Jun 96 19:00:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Alloy XK120
An XK120 is LOTS of work,
but lots of charm when finished. The British Jaguar Enthusiats club run a
feature on a brave guy to does a
home-garage DIY XK120 job- pretty amazing how far you can get if you have the
stamina.
Be prepared to never give up for 5 years at least with work every weekend.
Got the Money ? - Go get it !
Regards Jeffrey Gram
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 17 Jun 96 12:04:18
Subject: Re: GM40 shift points/steering rack
Matthias :
- why is the kickdown switch on this transmission only active in the ‘D’
position ?
The GM400 will kick down from 3 to 2 but there is no 2-1 kickdown. It is not a
tremendously sporting product… I use the manual downshift if I need to shift
to 1 at any speed over 15 km/h (when it downshifts automatically). I have to be
careful, though; I had a more sporting shifter kit put in and now I can drop
into first at practically any speed.
Your upshift sounds a little high; the standard point is 5,000 rpm (mine’s set
to 6,000 with the kickdown switch energised, which is actually a little high
for best acceleration. 5,500 would be best, at least with my pre-HE engine).
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 17 Jun 96 13:10:35
Subject: Re: XJS Oil Pressure Relief Valve
Mike Neal:
Has anyone seen an oil pressure relief valve for the XJS that is
adjustable? It would be nice to be able to bump the oil pressure up a
bit at idle to get over 10psi on a hot day.
The oil pressure at idle is not determined by the relief valve, Mike; it’s low
because with hot thin oil and the pump revolving slowly, the oil goes through
the bearings and internal pump leakages too fast to build up much pressure. The
relief valve is closed, therefore passes no oil, and doesn’t open until you hit
about 60 psi.
There’s nothing to worry about, anyway; as long as the gauge shows some
pressure, there’s enough oil flowing through the bearings to renew the
lubricating film. The pressure that keeps the bearing and journal apart - much
higher than any pump pressure - is generated not by the pump but by motion, as
when a slick tyre aquaplanes through a puddle even if it is the merest film of
water on the road.
This is why few cars bother with a pressure gauge; the idiot light is the true
danger signal.
-
- Jan
XJ12C
XJ12L s2
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 17 Jun 96 12:51:44
Subject: Re: $75 oil pressure sender or $75 labor.
Sorry I didn’t make my point clear enough, Jim. It is that in my personal
experience, 99 electrical faults out of 100 (obviously not counting consumables
such as fuses and light bulbs) are in the wiring and not the components, so you
should check the wiring first - and if there is a simple check of the
components involved, use that. Of course I’m not talking about pressure
calibration, don’t be silly. In the case of the OP sender, I’m talking about a
simple continuity check with an ohmmeter with the engine a) not running and b)
running, with the fault showing on the gauge. That doesn’t cost $75 but maybe
10 minutes of your own time.
Case in point: night before last, the ignition in my XJC went sparkless.
On-the-spot troubleshooting indicated that the coil was OK, power was present -
but the amplifier wasn’t working properly (voltage on coil neg terminal was 10V
instead of 3V during cranking). This narrows the fault down to the Hall effect
switch in the distributor, the amplifier, or the wiring between them.
I did not replace the Hall effect switch and/or amplifier “just in case”, I
checked the wiring, including opening up the distributor. It turned out that
one of the three leads to/from the Hall effect switch had frayed clean off
where it passed through the distributor wall and the stumps had been making
intermittent contact as the cable flapped around. I renewed the wiring - which
was a pretty fiddly job because the magnet wheel is stuck on the shaft and
can’t be removed, a situation very few workshops would accept - and had the
show on the road again in about an hour and a half, wet and cold (did you know
it always rains when these things happen?). Then would you believe the poor
thing stopped again 10 minutes later with the same symptoms? It turned out to b
e another intermittent in the same cable, where it’s covered by a plastic
sheath. The cable had obviously burned at some earlier stage and the PO had
just pulled the sheath up - not realising that a cable not supported by
insulation easily falls prey to “flapping fatigue”.
Two breaks in the same cable is a new one on me, but there you are, there’s
always a first time and platitudes like that. I can tell you one thing - it
makes it jolly hard to find the fault.
Incidentally, I do think it’s worth checking a $A15 halogen bulb with a test
lead before I chuck it out; sure I’ve had bulbs die, but I’ve also had the
cable break - namely, the cable to left headlight of my XJ12L was trapped in
the bonnet hinge.
Customers? Shucks, no, Jim. I’m talking hobby, here, and a lean budget. I know
a lot of workshops tend to replace at least $500 worth of parts before they’ll
take the trouble to check the wiring, and if it turns out to be the wiring that
was faulty anyway, do they tell the customer and take the parts back? Get an
umbrella, because pigs are flying…
-
- Jan
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #153
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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 17 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 154
Are there any Jag-Lovers in Darwin, Australia?
Unleaded/High octane
Re: XJ40 - Oil Pressure Again
RE: Wire wheel knock-ons: Germany
RE: Lubrication/Anybody use a pre-luber?
RE: Cars with and without character (was fiatx1-9
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #151
Radio Removal
front adjustment / rip off ?
Le Mans 25 hours
newcomer
RE: Lubrication/Anybody use a pre-luber?
$75 oil pressure guage sender XJ6 (to Jan)
[none]
Re: Front End adjustment rip-off
RE: Lubrication/Anybody use a pre-luber?
From: “Sleeman, Chris (Exchange)” C.Sleeman@praxa.com.au
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 13:26:45 +1000
Subject: Are there any Jag-Lovers in Darwin, Australia?
All,
I am going up to Darwin for holidays this week. I know it is a long
shot, but does anyone on the list live up there?
Regards,
Chris Sleeman
c.sleeman@praxa.com.au
From: etoes@eto.ericsson.se (Espen Skare 41370)
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 96 08:22:08 +0200
Subject: Unleaded/High octane
The Jags are said to accept unleaded fuel from late 1991/1992 while
earlier models require “4star”. With unleaded 98 octane also being
available now, is the earlier Jags need for “4star” fuel :
- due to high compression only, so that they do accept high octane
unleaded,
or is it also - due to the metal in valve seating and related parts which needs the
lead?
/ Espen
From: ewilliam@cisco.com (Evan Williams)
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 16:52:44 +1000
Subject: Re: XJ40 - Oil Pressure Again
The oil light coming on when the gauge drops to zero puts the sender and gauge
in the clear; the light has a separate sensor, and if both agree that the oil
pressure is too low, you can be sure the oil pressure is indeed too low.
That sudden loss of oil would normally indicate a leak - internal if the
exhaust smokes, external if you can see more oil than usual anywhere around
the
engine and oil cooler. But having the oil loss stop equally suddenly - if I
read you message correctly - is a mystery, especially if the pressure drops
drastically at the same time.
Could be the type of oil used, mine used about the same amount after a
service and when I called the shop he said that some other car’s that he
had used the same batch of oil had called him as well. We changed oil again
with another batch and all was well… except for that oil pressure guage
going wierd every now and then.
I’d check the oil pressure relief valve first,
because if it sticks open, you’d get the pressure problem, and that’s not an
uncommon thing even if it doesn’t explain the oil loss.There might be some more unusual cause for the pressure loss, such as some
internal gallery plug deciding to take a holiday, but that wouldn’t explain
the
oil loss either. All I can say is, I’d have a really good examination of
engine, oil cooler and exhaust pipes before going to the doctor.
- Jan
Regards
Evan Williams
Account Manager Federal Region
Email: ewilliam@cisco.com
Phone: 61-6-2180505
Fax: 61-6-2574922
Mobile: 61-0419236992
Page 61-24306381
Cisco Systems Australia
Patience is a virtue afforded
those with nothing better to do
From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 96 09:52:00 MET
Subject: RE: Wire wheel knock-ons: Germany
John, I used to own an XK150 in the 70’s that I bought in Switzerland. Swiss
and German regulations were quite similar than so I suppose that my car was
equipped in a similar way. It had wire wheels with spinners that looked as
if the protruding lugs had been sawn off. With the car was supplied a kind
of big ring spanner, made of brass sheet about 8 mm (5/16") thick (I quote
from memory) with a hole in it, a circle with trimmed off opposite chords. A
thor hammer was supplied to hammer on the end of the tool. The fit was not
very positive and I supose that they have now all been replaced by the
“continental” spinner as I have on my Daimler V8, this has three small lugs
and comes with a brass tool that fits over the spinner and has three bigger
lugs to hammer.
Frans.
The Service Bulletin from Jaguar #263 (April 1959) says that cars now in
production were fitted with special knock on hub caps to comply with
German
regulations. They had shorter lugs and needed a special tool for
removal/replacement. A copper mallet was used. Has anyone ever seen the
knock
ons and the tool? I would really appreciate being able to gets photos or
sketches. Regards, John Elmgreen
From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 96 10:18:00 MET
Subject: RE: Lubrication/Anybody use a pre-luber?
I have never used a preluber but the idea is interesting. In stead of buying
such an expensive equipment I would use a second hand fuel pump from an old
domestic heater burner. These are gear type pumps with an adjustable over
pressure valve and can be had from a heating installation business. I might
try it myself when I start the V8 in my Daimler.
Frans.
In a few weeks I plan to try and start my rebuilt V12 for the first
time. I understand that I need to pre-lube the engine first. What I
don’t understand is how I am supposed to do that.My guess (after reading Kirby’s manual) is that I need to get one of
those electric aux oil pumps and install it. I also guess that one of
these would be a good thing to have in the first place.Since they cost $400 or so, I thought I would ask a few questions before
I dealt out the clams…
- If I don’t use one of these pumps, how do I pre-lube?
- If I do need one of these pumps, where do I get one? I found one in
JCWhitney for $420…>ouch<- Anybody here use one? Love it? Hate it?
Dave Covert
…Particle Man, Particle Man, doin’ the things a particle can…
They Might Be Giants
From: “Richard Atherton (Entex)” a-richat@microsoft.com
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 04:18:03 -0700
Subject: RE: Cars with and without character (was fiatx1-9
I have to say here and now that this was one of the best stories that I
have read in some time. I laughed, I cried, and I empathized completely
with its author. He and I must have channeled the same British spirits
over the years. It is truly amazing how a hunk of stamped out sheet
metal, forged steel and iron, and molded plastic and cloth, shaped in
into some rolling fire breathing, smoke belching contraption,…can
bring a man to his knees in wonderment. And when something isn’t right
with the car, we feels its pain, and MUST nurse it back to health. We
are drawn to them, they need us. And DAM IT, we need them !!. We are
somehow incomplete without the relationship of man and machine to guide
us through the pitfalls of our mere mortal life. We know that “this”
machine can and Should out live us if taken care of. It is our
job…Our DUTY, to see that these machines will survive into, and beyond
the next millennium. When one falls, the rest should drive by in a
missing man formation…This is how it makes us feel. These machines
are part of us, like a titanium heart valve, once you have it, you can’t
live without it!
I feel proud, and unashamed for it to be known that I Love Sunbeam
Alpines, and even though I once let one go…to a better
place…(Sniffle), It will someday return to me, and we will once again
cruise the beach roads, and state parks, and I shall feed it all the oil
that it needs. I will do this, as I would for my own brother, without
regard for my savings, or retirement… I, would…I …I …(falling
off of the soap box, and collapsing to the ground…)
Gee, I felt like Elmer Gantry ! Or maybe…Yeah…that’s it…
Rich… I H a v e a D r e a m !!!
From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU[SMTP:southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU]
Sent: Friday, June 14, 1996 7:40 AM
To: british-cars@autox.team.net; jag-lovers@sn.no
Cc: RedDawg400@aol.com
Subject: Cars with and without character (was fiatx1-9Keith asks the british-car list…
{I have the opurtunity to buy a Fiat x1-9. Does anyone know anything
{about a X1-9. …is this mailing list a proper place to dicuss Fiat
{probslems and/or questions?This is most definitely NOT the place to discuss Fiat X1/9’s. But, my
experience owning an X1/9 was so very different from my british car
owning experiences that it’s worth exploring this for a bit…Moneywise, the X1/9 was one of the best cars I’ve ever owned. Bought
on
a whim for $200, fixed up with $200 worth of minor parts, bondo and
spray paint, then sold for $900 to some college kid with more dollars
than sense who just had to have it for a hot date that night. It was
pretty, relatively unique, handled very nicely and gave me an excellent
return on investment.But, I never found myself able to ever actually like that X1/9. For
me,
it had some big shortcomings. First, it was extremely underpowered, to
the point of being no fun. Second, it always seemed kinda flimsy and
not very well made. Third, it was very rustprone. But, by far, it’s
worst problem was that it lacked character and had absolutely no soul.This is a big deal to me. I tend to anthropomorphize mechanical things
and the ones which take to the characterization become especially dear
to me. The Jaguars I love have hooked me hard with their image of raw
performance matched with sophistication. And no one who watched any of
the 60’s African safari programs as a kid is immune to the lure of an
old sun-faded Land Rover. From the big Jags, Healeys and
Aston-Martins,
to any of the sports MG’s, TR’s and Sunbeams, down to the lowliest of
those little ugly-duckling british sedans, there’s something there
which
has a hold on us in one way or another, be it though direct interaction
or a simple mental image or some piece of successful marketing by those
doomed companies. I guess that the character which a person paints
onto
an inanimate object ultimately springs from their own personal
experience and imagination and I found that I don’t speak Italian.My Fiat X1/9 distinguished itself by being my only vehicle which never
spoke to me. All my others have. My first car, a big-block muscle
car,
was a fire-breathing brute with all the beauty and grace of bashed-up
prizefighter. It could could pass anything but a gas station, break
the
tires loose in any gear despite a full load of slightly inebriated
juvenile reprobates and it’s bad-boy looks alone would guarantee
picking
up either a smiling young lovely or a scowling police escort on the way
into high school in the morning. My old motorcycle in college, a close
cousin of Pirsig’s little 305 Superhawk, happily existed at the other
end of the spectrum, living on the very edge of total entropic
disintegration, yet never letting me down and teaching me so much.
Then theere was a bathtub SAAB so ugly you couldn’t help liking it.
Our
Subaru 4x4 wagon was a tough soldier, taking my wife-to-be and I to
cool
places in the mountains and deserts which we never dreamed existed.
The
recent Volvo’s have excelled in their honest solid utility and
tank-like
safety for schlepping the kids around with a hint of performance when
you get into the turbo.But my favorites, by far, are the Jaguars. They have always literally
dripped with character and never failed to divert me from the things
which I really should be doing. Like some ordinary bloke who wakes up
one morning to find himself suddenly living with a pouty supermodel,
I’m
often still in awe, never quite sure whether to sit back and bask in
the
glory of it’s beauty or collapse under the demands of it’s high
maintenance lifestyle. On one day it’ll delight me with a beautiful
high-G blast up the canyons thru the passes to the Continental Divide
or
a combat speed run thru the curvy Denver freeways for a night in the
city. The next day it will piss me off by breaking something stupid
and
expensive. But, soon it’ll be seducing me again, just sitting there
looking pretty and letting my imagination run wild with all the
possibilities.But, that Fiat X1/9 was never anything more to me than just a tin can.
Worse than a generic appliance car, which can be appreciated for being
quietly reliable, my X1/9 was totally devoid of character and for that
reason alone I ended up quickly disposing of it with little more
thought
or regret than I’d give to tossing an empty soup can into the rubbish./\ Lawrence “Now, what was the question again?” Buja
_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric
Research________________Boulder,Colorado___80307-3000
From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 13:45:53 -0700
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #151
Kurt Onstott wonders:
Why don’t my XJ6 SII doorlocks work?
I’ve no idea, but I feel compelled to to make a remark regarding XJ SIIs; By the
time the Series II was put in production, BL (British Leyland) had taken over
Jaguar, and the marque took a serious plunge where build quality was concerned.
On top of that, which is probably the reason for your door lock problems, they
started using Morris (yyaack…) parts on Jaguars. One of the first items to be
adopted from Morris was; that’s right! door locks!
IMO you ought to be able to fix/adjust them, but they may just as well have
broken parts in them.
Good luck
Baard
______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no
From: “Himes,John W.” jwh@dw.att.com
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 96 23:12:00 PDT
Subject: Radio Removal
Richard.Mansell
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 1996 22:30:00 +0100
Subject: XJS 1989 Radio Removal
I have just purchased a 1989 XJ-S 5.3 and would like to change the cassette radio for a more modern unit. The radio is the original Jaguar item.
I have taken off the air conditioning control panel to get better
access to be confronted with what appears to be 4 rivets holding down
the mounting brackets of the stereo.
Before I start drilling out the rivets have I missed something???
On my 88 XJ-S (mfg 3/87) there are 44 Phillips screws instead of rivets. The only thing holding my radio in place after removing the screws was a wide braided wire bolted to the back of the radio In my opinion (eye am no ecexpert ), you should not encounter any problems drilling out the rivets except on how you are going to mount in the new radio. Just my opinion. John Himes 88 XJ-S 94K miles From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 14:34:39 +0200 (MET DST) Subject: front adjustment / rip off ? As I described a few days earlier I have a tire wear problem. Today I took the car to a small business, the guy put on some adjustement tools, made a few remarkable scratches into my otherwise like new alu wheels and then figurred out that he really had no clue how to adjust this car. [this was the last time I drove over his door step] Then my wife called two official Jaguar work shop in Paris to get a price. One said “ohhhhhh, very difficult, depends on bushings etc”. My wife Marie-Anne said “let’s assume evrything is ok, only adjustement” and she got a “oooooohhhhh, very difficult, unbelievable difficult to tell in advance blah blah blah.” So Marie-Anne called another official Jaguar workshop saying she was outside of the country and wanted to know the cost in advance to get french money. So it’s 3 hours which totals up at about $300. Michael Neal, or someone who really knows, is 3 hours a reasonable time for this adjustement or are they trying to rip us off ? Thanks in advance Matthias From: Roly Alcock roly@redac.co.uk Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 13:31:42 +0100 Subject: Le Mans 25 hours Did anyone else notice that the winner of the Le Mans race was the Joest TWR Jaguar-… Or in more detail a Porsche engine in a Jaguar XJ 14 chassis ( whatever that may be. ) Good to see that the Lister had a mention in the results. All though living in the UK, I had to watch the race on German Satellite TV, )not really understanding what was going on). Then get the results care of Nissan! Cheers Roly Provisional Results. Vehicle Rank Drivers and Teams Laps Cumulated Lap Time time diff 1 007 REUTER/JONES/WURZ TWR WSC 354 24:00:00.196 3:48.221 2 025 STUCK/BOUTSEN/WOLLEK PORSCHE GT1 353 24:00:37.523 1 3:49.221 3 026 DALMAS/WENDLINGER/GOODYEAR PORSCHE GT1 341 24:00:37.548 13 3:48.778 4 030 NIELSEN/BSCHER/KOX McLAREN F1 338 24:05:32.544 16 3:54.981 5 034 OWENSJONES/RAPHANEL/BRABHAM McLAREN F1 335 24:00:32.605 19 3:54.930 6 029 WALLACE/GROUILLARD/BELL D McLAREN F1 328 24:03:06.995 26 3:57.089 7 005 PESCAROLO/LAGORCE/COLLARD COURAGE C36 327 24:05:33.652 27 3:51.517 8 039 PIQUET/CECOTTO/SULLIVAN McLAREN F1 324 24:02:52.160 30 3:55.723 9 033 BELLM/WEAVER/LEHTO McLAREN F1 323 24:01:43.186 31 3:53.585 10 048 COBB/DISMORE/HENDRICKS CHRYSLER VIPER 320 24:01:55.624 34 4:04.738 11 038 LAFFITE/SOPER/DUEZ McLAREN F1 318 24:05:40.414 36 3:54.589 12 079 MARTINOLLE/KELLENERS/EICHMAN PORSCHE GT2 317 24:01:05.269 37 4:12.074 13 004 ANDRETTI/LAMMERS/WARWICK COURAGE C36 315 24:05:34.424 39 3:50.846 14 071 FARMER/MURPHY/NEARN PORSCHE GT2 313 24:01:03.543 41 4:13.908 15 023 HOSHINO/HASEMI/SUZUKI T NISMO NISSAN 307 24:00:59.000 47 4:08.675 16 075 TAKAHASHI/TSUCHIYA/IIDA HONDA NSX 305 24:04:55.810 49 4:16.403 17 083 ORTELLI/PILGRIM/BAGNALL PORSCHE GT2 299 24:01:03.723 55 4:15.126 18 077 KUSTER/JURASZ/SUZUKI PORSCHE GT2 297 24:03:07.450 57 4:21.151 19 028 LEES/NEEDELL/REID LISTER JAGUAR 295 24:01:44.816 59 3:55.091 20 082 GOUESLARD/AHRLE/BOURDAIS PORSCHE GT2 284 24:04:12.322 70 4:12.723 21 050 HELARY/GACHE/BERETTA CHRYSLER VIPER 283 24:00:35.706 71 4:04.900 22 027 CHEREAU/YVER/LECONTE PORSCHE GT2 Ev 279 24:04:11.840 75 4:12.599 23 049 CUDINI/MORTON/SIFTON CHRYSLER VIPER 269 24:01:55.616 85 4:02.849 24 046 FERTE/MARTINI/FABRE SARD MC8R 256 24:05:40.779 98 4:12.209 25 020 TERADA/DOWNING/FREON KUDZU MAZDA 251 24:05:36.731 103 3:56.0 Roly Alcock, (Postmaster) Principal Systems Engineer Redac Systems Ltd, Tel: 01684 294161 ext. 211 Zuken-Redac Group, Fax: 01684 298902 Green Lane, Tewkesbury, E-mail: roly@redac.co.uk Gloucestershire, GL20 8HE, UK Web: http://www.redac.co.uk From: aau@mnl.sequel.net (Alvin Uy) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 20:44:14 +0800 Subject: newcomer greetings to my fellow jaglovers this is my first posting and i would like your comments and insights a few months back i saw an ad (i live in manila, philippines) about a 1962 e-type and of course went there right away to find out the details. the car has no engine but the shell seems structurally sound. the interior and suspension needs major work. the original hardtop is in bad shape and the owner wants US $ 14,000 for the whole car.the car is RHD and we’re LHD here. Are conversions safe and reliable? I have a friend who is selling his spare XK engine so that lessens my problem a bit. any comments? should i go for IT? any information about reliable mail order parts dealers would be a major confidence booster. thanks in advance ALvin aau@mnl.sequel.net From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 09:48:01 -0400 (EDT) Subject: RE: Lubrication/Anybody use a pre-luber? It is usually recommended to disable the fuel pump and ignition and just crank the engine till you have pressure. You don’t need prelube pump for this. I have never used a preluber but the idea is interesting. In stead of buying such an expensive equipment I would use a second hand fuel pump from an old domestic heater burner. These are gear type pumps with an adjustable over pressure valve and can be had from a heating installation business. I might try it myself when I start the V8 in my Daimler. Frans. In a few weeks I plan to try and start my rebuilt V12 for the first time. I understand that I need to pre-lube the engine first. What I don’t understand is how I am supposed to do that. My guess (after reading Kirby’s manual) is that I need to get one of those electric aux oil pumps and install it. I also guess that one of these would be a good thing to have in the first place. Since they cost $400 or so, I thought I would ask a few questions before I dealt out the clams… 1. If I don’t use one of these pumps, how do I pre-lube? 2. If I do need one of these pumps, where do I get one? I found one in JCWhitney for $420…>ouch< 3. Anybody here use one? Love it? Hate it? From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 09:17:07 -0500 Subject: $75 oil pressure guage sender XJ6 (to Jan) Do you have a chart of the resistance that the oil pressure sender should show for different pressures? I would be interested in that, not for checking the guage, but for finding a substitute sender from an american source. I agree with you that one must check all possible systems before just replacing a part. But my comment was to those who had spent many posts on this list complaining of low oil pressure on an XJ6 and had exhausted all possibilities except an engine overhaul. The problem with the check you mention is that it would not catch the problem that I was refering to. Since the oil pressure only shows to be low and the guage works normaly in all other respects unless you knew the oil pressure (checked with a calibrated guage) and then had a chart of the resistance values to expect, there would be no way to know if it was the guage sender or a true oil pressure loss. I suspect, since mine did this, that the sender in more that one XJ6 is showing 40PSI when the true value is 60PSI. I was sure that my oil pressure was low because of worn bottom end (113,000 miles) and never questioned the guage. I had no idea what good shape the engine was in until the guage started failing totaly on an intermitent basis. This caused me to replace the sender and discover that my oil presure ran between 60 and 65 PSI droping only to 50PSI at idle!! Well worth the $75. Jim =================================================== " Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!" John Wayne P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet. =================================================== From: kharder@Direct.CA (Ken Harder) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 07:23:01 -0700 Subject: [none] I’m about to start a trip down the Oregon coast in my 88 Jag soveriegn. I read that I need a 95 octane gasoline. I use chevron’s min.94 octane in this country. Does anyone know which U.S. gas station has a 95 octane gasoline? Thankyou in advance, Deb on the web From: “Ryan Border” border@best.com Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 08:15:24 +0000 Subject: Re: Front End adjustment rip-off There’s not that much to adjusting the front end of the Jag Sedans: Camber: Adjust by inserting/removing shims between the upper A-arm mount and the suspension tower. Castor: Adjust by shifting shims around between the upper A-arm and the upper ball joint. Toe-in: Adjust with telescoping center steering link, or (on some cars I think) adjustable length Tie-rods. Unless the car has been smacked, tinkering with these 3 adjustments is all there is to aligning it. The shop I use charges $75, and that includes a computer readout showing measurements for both sides: before and after the work. They quoted me $300 when I inquired about trying to set up ride-height; which unlike the other adjustments usually involves pulling front coil springs. Ryan. From: ifinlay@vossnet.co.uk (Ian Finlay) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 16:41:30 +0100 Subject: RE: Lubrication/Anybody use a pre-luber? I seem to recall a recommendation in an old mag to make a tool using and old distributor. Just use the shaft, and have the end machined to fit in an electric drill. YMMV! Ian I have never used a preluber but the idea is interesting. In stead of buying such an expensive equipment I would use a second hand fuel pump from an old domestic heater burner. These are gear type pumps with an adjustable over pressure valve and can be had from a heating installation business. I might try it myself when I start the V8 in my Daimler. Frans. In a few weeks I plan to try and start my rebuilt V12 for the first time. I understand that I need to pre-lube the engine first. What I don’t understand is how I am supposed to do that. My guess (after reading Kirby’s manual) is that I need to get one of those electric aux oil pumps and install it. I also guess that one of these would be a good thing to have in the first place. Since they cost $400 or so, I thought I would ask a few questions before I dealt out the clams… 1. If I don’t use one of these pumps, how do I pre-lube? 2. If I do need one of these pumps, where do I get one? I found one in JCWhitney for $420…>ouch< 3. Anybody here use one? Love it? Hate it? Dave Covert …Particle Man, Particle Man, doin’ the things a particle can… They Might Be Giants Ian Finlay work:ian.finlay@stream.com DOD# 960 End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #154 ******************************** Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4) id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Tue, 18 Jun 1996 06:57:09 +0200 (MET DST) Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 06:57:09 +0200 (MET DST) Message-Id: 199606180457.GAA09118@ekeberg.sn.no X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #155 Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Precedence: bulk X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 18 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 155 I’ve just bought a MKII!! Now need advice … RE: Lubrication/Anybody use a pre-luber? Air Conditioning/Compressor Replacement Re: Unleaded/High octane Re: front adjustment / rip off ? Long MK1 update (Suspension/springs) XJ6 Milage? XJ40 Center Console Wood Trim Replacement Rear seal on GM TH transmissions. Rear Radius Arms XJ6 AJ-V8 Specs About that Mark II that I found… prelubrication recommendation Octane Ratings & correction on my radio removal re: XJS 1989 Radio Removal Octane Oops… SIII Temp Servicing Power Steering (SIII XJ6) From: ifinlay@vossnet.co.uk (Ian Finlay) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 16:47:36 +0100 Subject: I’ve just bought a MKII!! Now need advice … Huzzah! I finally get to join the ranks of the great and good - I signed a deal on a BRG ‘60 MKII 3.8! WIth luck I’ll take delivery next week (slaver, dribble) … So to the questions: 1) Does anyone in the UK fit air con at a reasonable cost? My hay fever is killing me! 2) Can non-reclining seats be converted to recliners? I guess I can swap the covers onto genuine recliners, but will any other mechanisms fit (S-type etc.)? 3) Anyone want to buy an arm and a leg?! Ian Ian Finlay work:ian.finlay@stream.com DOD# 960 From: ifinlay@vossnet.co.uk (Ian Finlay) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 16:41:30 +0100 Subject: RE: Lubrication/Anybody use a pre-luber? I seem to recall a recommendation in an old mag to make a tool using and old distributor. Just use the shaft, and have the end machined to fit in an electric drill. YMMV! Ian I have never used a preluber but the idea is interesting. In stead of buying such an expensive equipment I would use a second hand fuel pump from an old domestic heater burner. These are gear type pumps with an adjustable over pressure valve and can be had from a heating installation business. I might try it myself when I start the V8 in my Daimler. Frans. In a few weeks I plan to try and start my rebuilt V12 for the first time. I understand that I need to pre-lube the engine first. What I don’t understand is how I am supposed to do that. My guess (after reading Kirby’s manual) is that I need to get one of those electric aux oil pumps and install it. I also guess that one of these would be a good thing to have in the first place. Since they cost $400 or so, I thought I would ask a few questions before I dealt out the clams… 1. If I don’t use one of these pumps, how do I pre-lube? 2. If I do need one of these pumps, where do I get one? I found one in JCWhitney for $420…>ouch< 3. Anybody here use one? Love it? Hate it? Dave Covert …Particle Man, Particle Man, doin’ the things a particle can… They Might Be Giants Ian Finlay work:ian.finlay@stream.com DOD# 960 From: gvbjr@pluto.skyweb.net (gvb) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 12:41:06 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Air Conditioning/Compressor Replacement My air conditioning system just quit and it appears that the clutch on the compressor is not operating. I have a 1985 XJ6. I have not checked the system out yet but I suspect the meltable fuse has gone due to low freon level. If this is the case I will replace the whole compressor unit since it is 11 years old. In Kirby Palm’s help book he mentioned that the GM unit referred to as an A-6 could be substituted for the original compressor. I talked to an auto parts store and they told me that there are a few different models. Does anyone know the model number of this unit that would require the fewest number of modifications? Also, Kirby mentions a Ford substitute for the drier unit. Anyone know the model number on this? Thanks George Buonanno 1985 XJ6 From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 12:23:46 -0400 Subject: Re: Unleaded/High octane Espen: This was debated extensively last month, so you may want to check the archives. The consensus is that even older Jags can run perfectly well on unleaded gas, without the need for head modifications. Compression and timing are the only critical factors in selecting the correct octane. Mike Frank 1969 Etype 2+2 At 08:22 AM 6/17/96 +0200, you wrote:
The Jags are said to accept unleaded fuel from late 1991/1992 while
earlier models require “4star”. With unleaded 98 octane also being
available now, is the earlier Jags need for “4star” fuel :
- due to high compression only, so that they do accept high octane
unleaded,
or is it also- due to the metal in valve seating and related parts which needs the
lead?/ Espen
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 09:07:04 -0700
Subject: Re: front adjustment / rip off ?
If the suspension is in good shape then 1 hour should be the normal
charge for a proper alignment. If the subframe is bent and excessive
adjustments are needed, then it could take longer.
Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR wrote:
As I described a few days earlier I have a tire wear problem. Today I took
the car to a small business, the guy put on some adjustement tools, made a
few remarkable scratches into my otherwise like new alu wheels and then
figurred out that he really had no clue how to adjust this car.
[this was the last time I drove over his door step]Then my wife called two official Jaguar work shop in Paris to get a price.
One said “ohhhhhh, very difficult, depends on bushings etc”. My wife Marie-Anne
said “let’s assume evrything is ok, only adjustement” and she got a “oooooohhhhh,
very difficult, unbelievable difficult to tell in advance blah blah blah.”
So Marie-Anne called another official Jaguar workshop saying she was outside
of the country and wanted to know the cost in advance to get french money.
So it’s 3 hours which totals up at about $300.Michael Neal, or someone who really knows, is 3 hours a reasonable time
for this adjustement or are they trying to rip us off ?Thanks in advance
- Matthias
From: Ryan Border rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 09:42:24 -0700
Subject: Long MK1 update (Suspension/springs)
Just an update, for anyone who’s following my suspension sag(a):
To bring you up to speed-
3 years ago: purchase car, bad front springs.
2.8 years ago: obtain custom (stiff) set of coil springs
2 years ago: install new coils, too stiff
cut springs- learn 2:1 rule the hard way and ruin them
1.5 years ago: obtain 2nd set of custom springs
install them, too long again (but maybe liveable)
1 year ago: Decide to cut coils. Spend a whole day working on it.
Learn the hard way about how a car binds up on it’s tires
when you let if off a jack (need to drive a car some
before measuring). Overcut coils again.
Shim coils, use spreader block on 1 side, get car in OK shape
~3months ago: Obtain parts to convert to wire wheels- including new
420 uprights. Install the whole mess
~1month ago: Put car back down on wheels, discover I need new coils
again (different upright geometry) Order new (S-type coils)
~2weeks ago: Install new S-type coils. Drive car, they sag. Re-install
coils, drive car, they sag. Etc. Determine that
the coils are bad (not properly tempered)
So, as you can see, I’m now an expert at removing, adjusting, and installing
sedan coil springs.
My short experience with the S-type springs lead me to the conclusion that
they maybe weren’t what I wanted anyway. In addition to the sagging problem
that this particular set had, the springs were too soft for my tastes,
corresponding (I thought) to the more luxurious/touring character of the
S-type cars. On the other hand, I figured that some of the softness could
maybe be attributed to the fact that these were bad springs…
Anyway, I decided to try and find another solution. John McDonagh pointed
out that some MK2 racers down under use cut down MKX coils- though he
thought that might be too stiff for a street car. I thought about what
I had in my car for the last year or so (over-cut, shimmed, and partially
spread) coils, and concluded that the MKX springs probably wouldn’t be any
stiffer than that, and I was actually quite happy with them. So, I sent
mail to all the local MKX owners I knew, asking them if they knew of any
parts cars around. Lee Walden chimed in with a great pointer to a guy
in Santa Rosa named Don Taylor.
Don runs a restaurant. As part of the decor, he has, hanging on the wall,
the front 2 feet or so of various Jaguar sedans. I’ve put a picture Lee
sent me on my homepage at:
http://www.best.com/~border/pages/jag/images/noses.jpg
He buys the cars cheap, parts out the aft %80, and then cuts off and
restores the nose. He also sells them for a few thousand if anyone is
interested… Don had a MKX car he was preparing to butcher, and it
had what appeared to be a good set of coils in it. I drove to Santa
Rosa on Saturday, and spend a good part of the afternoon extracting
them. Saturday evening was spent cleaning and painting the coils.
My biggest concern with this solution was about the MKX springs being
long enough. John said that to use them in a MK2 they had to be cut,
which was encouraging, but I until I extracted the springs and measured
them, I didn’t know if they’d be long enough to use with the 420 uprights.
The tape said they should be, and in fact indicated they were a bit too
long when free, but I decided to install them without doing any cutting
to give myself a baseline measurement. These springs ARE stiff- and
it was a heck of a fight to get them installed into the car the first
time. But a short drive (sans shocks or sway bar) to let things settle
and a measurement yielded the happy conclusion that, with some cutting,
they’d work.
I decided I’d had enough experience cutting coils that I would be bold
and try and level the car (my car lists over a full inch with equal
coils) and set the ride height in a single pass- I was really getting
tired of installing these things. The computer spreadsheet I set up
told me I needed to cut 0.72 coils from one side, and 1.08 coils from
the other. I pulled, cut, re-installed, dropped the car down onto
it’s wheels and took it for a drive. Returned, measured, and found both
sides were within 1/8" of my target height. I would have left it there,
except that the low side was the right side (drivers side for my car). If
anything, I wanted the left side to be the low side (account for road crown,
and my weight in the drivers seat) and so I made a final adjustment by
inserting some shims (washers) between the left spring retaining plate
and the lower A-arm (also used longer bolts). A post-drive measurement
showed that the left side was now 1/8" lower than the right (car empty)-
exactly where I wanted it. I’ll have it aligned (tomorrow) and then drive
it for quite a while before (if) tinkering with it again.
Woohoo! Now, it better not start sagging
While at Don’s, I picked up a couple other nifty trinkets. One is a
battery hold-down strap, with a big warning label attached- to the
effect of “Warning, this car is Negative Ground, proper polarity must
be observed”. I guess these were installed for the last year or two
of the MK2’s (this came off a slim-bumper Daimler 250 he had). I
also found an interesting “licence plate”. It’s a black and white
(English style) plate, with “JAGUAR” on it. What I thought made it
interesting is that it appears to be made of a solid cast piece of
aluminum- the back of it is flat, even though the letters on the
front are significantly raised. Came off the same MKX my coils did.
A dealer installed accessory? Previous owner find it in JC Whitney?
Oh, and I also got a nifty knock-off wrench for Fathers day which
proved to be quite handy.
I can’t believe you read this far-
Ryan.
From: Curt Onstott onstottc@ucs.orst.edu
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 11:26:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: XJ6 Milage?
What kind of milage are other XJ6 owners getting? I burned 5 gallons in
less than 40 miles. I suspect that the chokes on my Zenith-Stromberg
175cd’s are stuck open. How do you adjust 'em?
- -To err is human. To err faster and more efficiently requires a computer.-
Curt Onstott - Windows/DOS/PC Specialist - Information Services - Oregon
State University. - (541) 737-1483 - Office: Kerr 217
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 14:31:00 -0500
Subject: XJ40 Center Console Wood Trim Replacement
Well, I did it. I replaced the wood trim on the console of my '88 XJ40.
The PO had evidently left the sunroof open in a rain or two and damaged the
wood but good!
I finally decided to go with Autostyle in Kent, in the UK for replacement of
the ski slope, ashtray cover and ash tray surround. Got all three for 130
pounds, in bleached wood to match my old stuff. Beautiful wood, nice burl
to it, and very nice color match.
With help from Autostyle on the how-to of removal and replacement, it was
done in about two hour’s time.
Looks so much better that I can hardly believe it!
Now maybe I’ll be embolden enough to try and replace the seat leather next!
Scott Phillips
'88 XJ40
PS Thanks for the a/c cost responses. I’m still deciding where to go and
what to do…especially now that I got such diverse cost information!
PSS Anyone interested in my old wood and frames?
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 15:18:55 -0500
Subject: Rear seal on GM TH transmissions.
I assume that the GM tranny in the XJS is similar to the TH350 conversion I
have. How dificult is the replacement of the rear shaft seal? Mile is
leaking slightly, not alarmingly, and I plan to replace it if not a job for
special tools.
Jim
===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"
John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 15:18:44 -0500
Subject: Rear Radius Arms XJ6
I am planning on replacing the busshungs in the radius arms on my XJ6. Does
anyone have any experience with these and how long does it take.
According the the book it looks like an easy job, but maybe not. Any
suggestions will be gratefully recieved.
Jim
===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"
John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: stephen@kurtzman.com (stephen kurtzman)
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 16:45:07 -0800
Subject: AJ-V8 Specs
Just thought I would forward the following to the list. I received this
today from my local dealer. This is information that was released to the
public on 13-Jun-96.
AJ-V8 Engine specifications:
Number of Cyl: 8
Configuration: 90-degree V8
Capacity cc (cu. in.): 3996 (243.9)
Bore/Stroke mm (in.): 86/86 (3.386/3.386)
Stroke/bore ratio: 1.00:1
Compression ratio: 10.75:1
Fuel grade: Unleaded premium
Max power bhp @ engine speed, SAE net: 290 @ 6100 rpm
Max torque lb. ft. @ engine speed, SAE net: 290 @ 4250
Cylinder block type: Die cast aluminum alloy block and bedplate assembly:
alloy block with Nikasil-plated bores, bedplate with cast iron bearing cap
inserts.
Cylinder head type: Precision sand cast aluminum alloy, fully heat treated
Combustion chamber type: Pentroof
Number of valves/cylinder: Four
Valve operation: Twin overhead camshafts, chain driven hydraulically
actuated two-position inlet cam VCP system.
Camshafts: Chilled cast iron
Crankshaft: Spheroidal Graphite cast iron
Connecting rods: Powder sinter forged steel
Oil Capacity liters (U.S. quarts): 6.5 (6.9)
Ignition: Nippondenso EMS with on-plug coils
Spark plugs: Fine wire platinum tipped
Fuel injection: Nippondenso EMS with sequentially driven side-feed injectors
Inlet manifold: Eight branch Polamide 66 GF35 manifold with central plunum.
Integral fuel rail
Throttle contol: Nippondenso EMS with DC motor-driven electronic throttle
and integral mechanical back-up
Cooling system type: Sealed pressurized.
Cooling system capacity liters (U.S. quarts): 10.1 (10.5)
Weight (dressed) kg (lb): 200 (441)
Transmission Type: ZF 5HP24 5-speed automatic
Torque converter type: With slip-controlled lock-up clutch
Ratios
1st: 3.57:1
2nd: 2.20:1
3rd: 1.51:1
4th: 1.00:1
5th: 0.80:1
Rev: 4.10:1
Lubrication system: Maintenance free
Weight (with oil) kg (lb.): 95 (209)
From: v.bromfield@uts.edu.au (Vaughan Bromfield)
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 10:23:25 +1000
Subject: About that Mark II that I found…
Hello again! Vaughan here…
Firstly thanks for your gracious and enthusiastic welcome to the list!
Many people from all over the world have offered good advice, the best of
which is “buy it, you’ll regret it for years if you don’t”. Hard to argue
with that!
Now the low-down on the Jag I found.
Basically the car would be a dangerous purchase. It was extensively
restored a few years ago (estimate about ten) when aparently many, many,
many cubic dollars were spent on it. The rego expired in March and the car
was regularly if infrequently driven until then. Aparently it went very
well. It appears to have absolutely no rust in the doors, everything is
there and the interior is beautiful except for some peeling varnish on the
door trim. It is a 3.4 litre auto. And that georgeous cat leaping from the
bonnet…
So what’s the problem, you ask…
Exectutive summary: nobody is sure who owns the car, and nobody wants to
even talk about it because it is the meat in a big family-feud sandwich
(more like a catalyst really).
In full: The car was orginally bought by my cousin (who is about 25 years
older than me and hence, not close: his kids are my age!) for his wife
sometime in the early eighties. This was about when the big restoration
money was spent. After a few years the car just sat in the garage for a
while. But it was soon “adopted” by my cousins father (my dad’s oldest
sibling) and ended up being sort-of given to him by a kinda osmosis thing.
I’m sure many of you would be familiar with the process
Anyway, father and son had a major falling out over something about a year
or two ago, and now they aren’t talking to each other in a BIG way (Uncle
is now 84 and not mellowing at all in his twilight years) and to make
matters worse another family relative did some brake and gearbox work on
the car and is owed a couple of thousand for that… the car is at the
other cousins shop and that is where I first saw it.
So the danger in purchasing the car is the family feuding that surrounds
the car, certainly not the car itself.
However, I will persevere and keep you all posted on the results.
Vaughan
(hoping you liked the story and keen to hear yours)
| Vaughan Bromfield | |
| Education Consultant | |
| Information Technology Division | |
| University of Technology, Sydney | Phone: (02) 330 1990 |
| P.O. Box 123 | Fax: (02) 330 1169 |
| Broadway 2007 (Australia) | V.Bromfield@uts.edu.au |
From: DavidZ333@aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 20:26:02 -0400
Subject: prelubrication recommendation
Motor week had reviewed a preluber that was impressive. I sent for info -
good info and good system.
Write to : Engine - Life
P.O. Box 613
Parkman, Ohio 44080
602 883 8344
orders - 1 - 800 - 289 - 8826
They sell atypical oil filtration systems as well.
Analogy : are you aware of the “old fashioned” and sensible foot plunger
actived wind screen washers that negates use of electric motor?? (a squirt
gun) I wonder if this system could be used with modifications as a preluber.
From: “Himes,John W.” jwh@dw.att.com
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 96 15:50:00 PDT
Subject: Octane Ratings & correction on my radio removal
I think that octane ratings are kind of regional. Here in Colorado, USA
standard unleaded octane rating is normally 85, midgrade 87 & premium is 91
or 92. I have not seen higher except when I go flying with 100 low lead. (
in a airplane that is )
Then I see posting here about 95 to 98 as normal. Yes we do have oxygenated
fuels here during the winter months, but I do not see the octane rating
stickers change, just the price goes up and performance & mileage goes down.
I also made an error when I said that there are 44 Phillips screws holding
down my radio. It should have said 4 (four). Oops ;-(
John Himes
88 XJ-S 94K miles & loving it!
From: Tom Curtis curtist@cfw.com
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 21:19:46 -0400
Subject: re: XJS 1989 Radio Removal
I have just purchased a 1989 XJ-S 5.3 and would like to change the cassette radio for a more modern unit. The radio is the original Jaguar item. I have taken off the air conditioning control panel to get better access to be confronted with what appears to be 4 rivets holding down the mounting brackets of the stereo. Before I start drilling out the rivets have I missed something???? Any tips or advice would be much appreciated. I do not want to deface the car unnecessarily.
Richard,
I have an '87 XJ6. It has four plastic, round top fasteners that look like
rivet heads holding the radio brackets to the console panel. These “rivets”
have pins through the centers that, when pushed in, expand the tails of the
plastic rivets. I removed them by carefully extracting the center “pin”
which allowed the tails to contract. I then pulled the “rivets” out from
the front.
You must be careful not to let the center pins go through (towards the front
of the car) since, while the “rivets” will come out, it may be difficult to
find the pins.
Regards,
Tom Curtis
'87 XJ6
From: “Himes,John W.” jwh@dw.att.com
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 96 20:04:00 PDT
Subject: Octane Oops…
When I made my earlier post today I forgot to add that where I live (
Denver, Colorado, USA ) is about 1 mile above sea level. This may be of
some reasoning why the available octane levels may be lower then in other
pasts of the country / world. Again standard unleaded is about 85 octane,
mid-grade 87, premium about 91. Sorry for the wasted bandwidth. I just
forgot to add this in my earlier post. Guess thats what I get for reading
Jag-Lovers at work.
John Himes
From: blackmx5@usa.pipeline.com (Lawrence Karpman)
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 04:21:53 GMT
Subject: SIII Temp
I will head your advice (m.neal) and have my radiator rodded, thermostat
replaced, and temp sensor also. But I’ve noticed something appaently odd.
When the engine is brought to operating temp (90) and the cap on the
expansion tank is removed, no coolant is being sucked into the system. The
tank remains full and pulsates slightly. I would have thought it would be
sucked in when the thermostat opened.
I was told that because I didn’t “burp” the system after I replaced the top
hose, that I have air in my system.
I’m dumb, so you comments are very important to me.
Larry Karpman
'85 XJ-6
From: sfisher@sola.com.au (Scott Fisher)
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 96 00:12 CST
Subject: Servicing Power Steering (SIII XJ6)
This is one of those…I posted this a while ago and didn’t see
any response posts…I suppose twin fuel-tank discussions have absorbed
any spare time most of us have
Q: What is the recommended servide procedure and interval for the
power steering system on a SIII XJ6 (ar any Jaguar for that matter)?
I suppose I am thinking mainly about power steering fluid renewal…
Regards Scott.
Scott Fisher [sfisher@sola.com.au] PH: (08)329-28341.
_--_|\ N
SOLA Optical / \ W + E
International Holdings Research Center _.–*_/ S
Adelaide, South Australia v
Joy is a Jaguar XJ6 with a flat battery, a blown oil seal and an unsympathetic
wife, 9km outside of a small remote town, 3:15am on a cold wet winters morning.
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #155
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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 18 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 156
Re: XJ6 Milage?
XJ6 SERIES II Door panels RUST
Rear radius arm bushings
XJ40 Handbook and “Why a Jag?”
Ryan’s Front springs
Jag: Mk2 Scuttle vent - help needed
Re: XJ6 Milage?
Daimler for Sale
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #153
Re: Mk2s Available
Re: XJ6 Milage?
Fuse Problem
RE: Rear radius arm bushings
Darwin Jag Lovers
Quick Story - Enough to make you cry
Re: PRE-OILERS
RE: Jag: Mk2 Scuttle vent - help needed
Re: Erratic '89 XJ6 Odometer
Recent Jaguar alloy wheels
From: B0R0@ozemail.com.au
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 16:28:27 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ6 Milage?
What kind of milage are other XJ6 owners getting? I burned 5 gallons in
less than 40 miles. I suspect that the chokes on my Zenith-Stromberg
175cd’s are stuck open. How do you adjust 'em?
I have just recently went on a trip to Adelaide (Australia) From Melbourne and
the milage I got on a 1900k round trip including some sightseeing and used 210
litres of petrol which equates to approx 9k per litre. which comes out at about
25 miles per gallon.
MIK.
From: B0R0@ozemail.com.au
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 16:35:28 +1000 (EST)
Subject: XJ6 SERIES II Door panels RUST
Jaguar XJ6 series II
I have just found that i have some rust at the bottom of the door on the
passenger side, and i have started to take of the panels so i can get into the
bottom from the inside and unblock the hole to let out the water and spray in
some fish oil, (untill i can afford to get a complete respray next year)
now i have out the screws and pushed up the newspaper holder but the extension
arm (the end with the chrome sleve) wont come off, how do i remove this piece so
that i can get into the door. and no i dont have a manual.
thanx for help in advance.
MIK.
From: “Alastar W. Lauener” bu08@central.napier.ac.uk
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 09:16:42 +0100
Subject: Rear radius arm bushings
Jim Isbell asked about rear radius arm bushings.
The arms themselves can be a pain to remove from the car at the forward
end. Often, one resorts to cutting the rubber, and using a saw on the remains
of the bush. At the rear, one must remove the lower arm to the hub to get
access to the bolt to remove the arm.
If the arm comes off easily, you need a press to get out the old big bushes
or resort (carefully) to a saw.
Basically, technically the job is easy. Just allow a long time!
On replacement, be careful with the alignment of the big bushes. They have
holes in them which must be at the sides, not at the front as stated in some
manuals. The whole point of these arms is to stop forward/rearward movement
of the rear axle.
- Alastair Lauener Work Phone +44 131 455 2458 *
- Chief Technician Fax +44 131 455 2267 *
- Department of Building & Surveying Home Phone +44 1577 864242 *
- Napier University, Edinburgh EH10 5DT a.lauener@central.napier.ac.uk *
- 1964 3.4 S-Type story at http://www.sn.no/home/nick/alas.html *
From: Mark Stiles ittmjs@staffs.ac.uk
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 09:16:47 +0100
Subject: XJ40 Handbook and “Why a Jag?”
I have really enjoyed my first weeks on jag-lovers. When I acquired
my 89/90 Daimler 4.0 a few weeks ago, I insisted that the dealer
provide me with an owners handbook after he had demonstrated his
inability to work out how the filler cap cover opened! (Fortunately my
own mechanic, a friend who was Jag-trained, did, otherwise we wouldn’t
have had much of a test drive!) Anyway I dutifully set about reading
the thing from cover to cover - no big suprises - UNTIL I got to the
fat chapter on “The Environment Control” - AC -which gave me a headache
reading it - despite given pages of suggested settings for various
conditions. BUT thanks to the recent lengthy discussion on XJ40 AC -
I have, I believe finally got it cracked!
A totally unmechanical point:
When I got the car, many colleagues (not my friends - they have taste)
asked me things like:
“Very nice - but why didn’t you buy a BMW/Mercedes/Lexus?”
-
- well I know its a stupid question but I did have difficulty
explaining in terms that made sense to them. (To me BMWs are naff,
Mercs well built but a bit too teutonic and hold their value too well
for me to be able to buy an equivalent age one, and Lexus look like
someone started designing a Merc but made it too fat and got the front
wrong)
- well I know its a stupid question but I did have difficulty
What would you say to these people?
Mark
Mark Stiles - Academic Development Manager
IT Services
Staffordshire University
01785 353410
From: “Alastar W. Lauener” bu08@central.napier.ac.uk
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 09:18:07 +0100
Subject: Ryan’s Front springs
Congrats Ryan, love the photo of the noses of the jags.
Hope that is finally the end of your spring saga, for your sake.
Enjoyed reading about it from the comfort of my chair
Cheers
- Alastair Lauener Work Phone +44 131 455 2458 *
- Chief Technician Fax +44 131 455 2267 *
- Department of Building & Surveying Home Phone +44 1577 864242 *
- Napier University, Edinburgh EH10 5DT a.lauener@central.napier.ac.uk *
- 1964 3.4 S-Type story at http://www.sn.no/home/nick/alas.html *
From: ejt@wg.icl.co.uk (Ted Trim)
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 96 09:24:40 BST
Subject: Jag: Mk2 Scuttle vent - help needed
Jag-lovers,
I’m getting slowly nearer to getting my Mk2 back on the road after her engine-bay
rebuild etc etc (all for a new clutch…).
Now I have a problem with the scuttle vent. The hinge is rusted and I can’t seem
to free it up properly - it won’t move enough to seal either open or closed!
I’ve removed everything I can from both sides - the vent lid, grille and rain shield
from outside, and the dash/instrument panel and felt etc from the inside, and I can
just see the hinge enough to spray it with penetrating fluid but to insufficient effect.
It seems to me that the only way to do this properly is to remove the hinge and flap
assembly. But how? I can only find two rivets holding the hinge to the back of
the scuttle chamber - is this all that holds it in place? The whole arrangement
is very difficult to get at from inside the car, even when completely stripped.
So, to those in the know: how do I remove the hinge and flap assembly ?
And to all Mk2/Mk1 owners: keep that hinge lubed!
Thanks in eager anticipation,
Ted Trim
1966 Mk2 3.4 Manchester, England
From: “Mnr Jacques Watson” GNFMJFW@frm.uovs.ac.za
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 11:26:40 GMT2
Subject: Re: XJ6 Milage?
Curt Onstott wonders about mileage for an XJ6.
Well Curt, this week-end I had the pleasure of driving my '75 XJ6 on
the open road for the first time since I have had it (4 months). As
you will realise, it is allmost impossible to keep the car at
anything close to the speed limit (got a R160 (US$40) speed fine).
Anyway, I averaged about 140 km/h (86 mph). My fuel consumption
for the trip was 7.5 km/l. That is about 17.5 miles per gallon if
my maths is correct. However, in the city I get about 4.5 km/l (10.5
mpg) and once as low as 3.8 km.l (8.9 mpg).
Curt, it sounds as if your 5 gallons in 40 miles is a bit thirsty. Of
course, most people at my work laughed when I told them of the
‘excellent’ fuel consumption I got this weekend.
Good luck with improving your mileage.
Jacques Watson (gnfmjfw@frm.uovs.ac.za)
1975 XJ6L
From: “Alastar W. Lauener” bu08@central.napier.ac.uk
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 10:37:11 +0100
Subject: Daimler for Sale
This came my way!
I own a 1978 Daimler four door sedan. It is in poor condition and I
wish to sell it. Please reply with any advice / leads.
thankyou,
David Bailey
eyebeam@primenet.com
- Alastair Lauener Work Phone +44 131 455 2458 *
- Chief Technician Fax +44 131 455 2267 *
- Department of Building & Surveying Home Phone +44 1577 864242 *
- Napier University, Edinburgh EH10 5DT a.lauener@central.napier.ac.uk *
- 1964 3.4 S-Type story at http://www.sn.no/home/nick/alas.html *
From: jaguar@terra.net.au (Don Heartfield)
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 20:40:00 +0930
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #153
jag-lovers-digest Monday, 17 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 153
I have only been a member of this list for a few weeks and I have found some
very interesting comments on all of the models. My own practical experience
with Jaguars only goes back about 12 years when I bought my first Jaguar
which I still have,a XJ6 series 2, my early experiences, would have put most
people off for ever,[that’s another story] however I stuck to it , and am
happy now.
I recently bought a new model XJ6 [1996] 3.2L which I am very happy with.
My question to the experts is regarding wheels. My car comes with steel
wheels [7Jx16] and imitation mag.covers. I would like to fit genuine Jaguar
mags. to the car but the dealers price is $3000. for a set, which I think is
a bit steep.
I was wondering if mag. wheels from previous models will fit the latest
model as hopefully, they may be available at a reasonable price.
Browsing on the internet I came across D.C.COOK Doncaster advertising
genuine Jaguar Alloy wheels[new], does any Australian know what would be
involved with importing something like this from U.K.
Thanks in advance for the info.
Don.
Don Heartfield, Telephone 018 087 161
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 04:25:58 -0700
Subject: Re: Mk2s Available
Jose…
You can find an excellent Mark II in the US for around the US$15/20k
level … There is a 1960 3.8 in excellent condition ( daily driver)
in northern Florida for under $20k … white with tan interior manual/od
no wires and no leather…but with a/c…
Shipping to Spain is $2,000 and entry duties are minimal
In the UK ( RHD) you will find similar cars at about L10k/15k with
wires and leather…
kind regards
tony
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
From: Mark Stiles ittmjs@staffs.ac.uk
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 12:32:55 +0100
Subject: Re: XJ6 Milage?
When I owned a Series 2 4.2 I found I averaged around 17-18mpg, with
22ish on runs and 14-15 around town. Perhaps you are a more vigorous
driver than me!
Mark
Mark Stiles - Academic Development Manager
IT Services
Staffordshire University
01785 353410
From: “Pierre Britz” PB@ing1.rau.ac.za
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 13:48:33 GMT+2
Subject: Fuse Problem
Hello all,
I was vers “cleaver” this weekend. I changed my 1978 XJ6L’ss central
locking to remote locking. I first tried to only have the drivers
door an the remote. After not finding a route for a power lead I
decided to use the switch’s wires on the console. As I soldering the
last wire (+12V) I shorted the wire to earth. (Very cleaver) Now my
central locking and electric windows does not work. I have looked
under the dash but no fuses are blown. Someware there is another
fuse. Can someone please help. Where do they hide the fusr to the
central locking, electric windows and lighter in the console.
Thank you.
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@ @
@ @@@ PIERRE BRITTZ @@@ @
@ @
@ NETWERK ADMIN @ NETWORK ADMIN @
@ RANDSE AFRIKAANSE UNIVERSITEIT @ RAND AFRIKAANS UNIVERSITY @
@ TEL. (011) 489-2658 @ TEL. (011) 489-2658 @
@ +27 11 489-2658(Int) @ +27 11 489-2658(Int) @
@ TELEFAX (011) 489-2357 @ TELEFAX (011) 4892357 @
@ +27 11 489-2357(Int) @ +27 11 489-2357(Int) @
@ E-POS: pb@ing1.rau.ac.za @ E-MAIL: pb@ing1.rau.ac.za @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 13:58 +0200
Subject: RE: Rear radius arm bushings
Alastair, All the workshop manuals I have for my E-type show that the radius
arm bushes should be installed with the holes fore and aft. This is to give
compliance in that direction. There are hardly any sideways forces and
compliance in that direction is not necessary. If the holes were not
necessary they would not have been provided, unless the installation of
these bushes is different for the heavier models of Jaguars like the S-type.
I hope somebody confirms because this seems an important point.
Frans.
Jim Isbell asked about rear radius arm bushings.
The arms themselves can be a pain to remove from the car at the forward
end. Often, one resorts to cutting the rubber, and using a saw on the
remains
of the bush. At the rear, one must remove the lower arm to the hub to get
access to the bolt to remove the arm.If the arm comes off easily, you need a press to get out the old big
bushes
or resort (carefully) to a saw.Basically, technically the job is easy. Just allow a long time!
On replacement, be careful with the alignment of the big bushes. They have holes in them which must be at the sides, not at the front as stated in some manuals. The whole point of these arms is to stop forward/rearward movement of the rear axle. ************************************************************************ * Alastair Lauener Work Phone +44 131 455 2458 * * Chief Technician Fax +44 131 455 2267 * * Department of Building & Surveying Home Phone +44 1577 864242 * * Napier University, Edinburgh EH10 5DT a.lauener@central.napier.ac.uk * * 1964 3.4 S-Type story at http://www.sn.no/home/nick/alas.html * ************************************************************************ From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@compuserve.com Date: 18 Jun 96 08:14:32 EDT Subject: Darwin Jag Lovers Chris: The only Jag Lover I have heard of in the deep north in Darwin had (maybe still has?) an XK120 FHC that came to Darwin 20 years ago towing a beach buggy. I heard the car was still there, damaged, having hit a buffalo. Now, if you can locate this or any other XKs for me, that would be great! Owners name was (Mrs) Jewel Bennet, ex Melbourne. Regards, John Elmgreen From: “Sleeman, Chris (Exchange)” C.Sleeman@praxa.com.au Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 16:37:30 +1000 Subject: Quick Story - Enough to make you cry All, My wife just called with an awful story. There is a cross intersection beside the units that we live in (and only three buildings away from the local police station). In the 12 months that we have lived here, I have personally witnessed four accidents at the intersection, and seen several others after the event. My wife has just seen another… She heard a crash and raced out to the balcony to see an old Holden Gemini (Isuzu 4cyl) wrapped around a brand new Jag. She went over to the accident and had a chance to speak to the owner (of the jag, she didn’t care about the Gemini). He explained that he bought the car last week (absolutely brand spanking new). He was crying. Then he said that he was going to insure it tomorrow!!! Now my wife almost cried. She said that she thinks that it’s a Daimler. If so, that would be about AUD 180-210,000, or around US150,000. To make things worse, both drivers are saying that it was the other’s fault. I hope the police can sort it out. And the moral of the story? Ummm, always get a cover note from the insurance agent before purchasing any car that you wouldn’t like to lose. My deepest sympathies to the owner if he is reading this. Regards, Chris Sleeman c.sleeman@praxa.com.au From: Don Tracey dont@echuca.net.au Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 10:22:39 +1100 Subject: Re: PRE-OILERS My guess (after reading Kirby’s manual) is that I need to get one of those electric aux oil pumps and install it. I also guess that one of these would be a good thing to have in the first place. Since they cost $400 or so, I thought I would ask a few questions before I dealt out the clams… 1. If I don’t use one of these pumps, how do I pre-lube? 2. If I do need one of these pumps, where do I get one? I found one in JCWhitney for $420…>ouch< 3. Anybody here use one? Love it? Hate it? Last engine rebuild I did ,I went to the trouble of pre-lubricating the engine before startup.The device I used was an old external bypass oil filter casing ,with an outlet fitted to take a piece of plastic pipe to a suitable point in an oil gallery ,then a tire valve fitted at the top of the casing ,using a tyre chuck to pressurise the system ,not a lot of pressure needed . Doesn’t cost a fortune, simple to build and use. IMHO I don’t know if its any better than turning the engine over with the starter ,but in theory there is probably less chance of damage if there is oil present before movement in the motor , and doing it makes you feel good inside :-)) My engine man has the practice of putting grease in the oil pump on assembly , he says that the oil pump primes quicker ,but with what I did the pump is primed anyway. In case you were wondering I put the last motor together myself,just mentioned what the engine man does in passing. DON TRACEY From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 14:32 +0200 Subject: RE: Jag: Mk2 Scuttle vent - help needed Hello Ted, I have just gone through the same ordeal on my Daimler V8. You can remove the flap from the hinges but in my car the hinge is welded to the bodywork just under the windscreen (inside of course) so I couldn’t remove it. I managed to free the hinge by spraying WD40 vertically through the dash opening in the middle, behind the hinged dash panel. In my case I was restoring everything so the cabling etc. was entirely removed and I could just see the hinge up high. Later, when freed, I sprayed liquid grease (used for motor bike chains) on the hinge. If you manage to spray penetrating fluid on the hinge it will free eventually after a few days of carefully trying to move the flap, not the handle as the mecanism is not very sturdy. Also keep spraying as the efficiency of the treatment is very low. Hope this helps, Frans. Jag-lovers, I’m getting slowly nearer to getting my Mk2 back on the road after her engine-bay rebuild etc etc (all for a new clutch…). Now I have a problem with the scuttle vent. The hinge is rusted and I can’t seem to free it up properly - it won’t move enough to seal either open or closed! I’ve removed everything I can from both sides - the vent lid, grille and rain shield from outside, and the dash/instrument panel and felt etc from the inside, and I can just see the hinge enough to spray it with penetrating fluid but to insufficient effect. It seems to me that the only way to do this properly is to remove the hinge and flap assembly. But how? I can only find two rivets holding the hinge to the back of the scuttle chamber - is this all that holds it in place? The whole arrangement is very difficult to get at from inside the car, even when completely stripped. So, to those in the know: how do I remove the hinge and flap assembly ? And to all Mk2/Mk1 owners: keep that hinge lubed! Thanks in eager anticipation, Ted Trim 1966 Mk2 3.4 Manchester, England From: scoleman@pcl.net (Steve Coleman) Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 08:14:36 -0500 Subject: Re: Erratic '89 XJ6 Odometer Kevin Campbell wrote:
My speedo works just fine, but the odometer only increments occasionally.
Some times it’ll be OK for a couple of miles, then you can go a day or two with
no change.Anyone have any thoughts? The dealer answer ($980 US for a new instrument panel)
is less than appealing. I’m tempted to try and get the thing out (however
one does that) and check for dirty/loose contacts and/or dry joints.Thanks in advance,
Kevin
I would definitely try the remove and repair approach first. A while
back one of my XJ40’s instrument panel illumination began to cut out
intermittently. I could usually get it to come back on, at least for a
short while, by smacking the top of the instrument pack. The dealer, of
course, volunteered to replace it at the price you were quoted. I
removed it and with all connectors connected localized the problem to a
bad solder joint on the circuit board–did this by applying light
pressure to various points on the board and watching for the lights
going out. It took about an hour and essentially zero cost to fix.
Steve Coleman
1989 XJ40
1987 XJ6
From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 13:45:04 GMT
Subject: Recent Jaguar alloy wheels
In message 1376992096-44949071@mail.terra.net.au jaguar@terra.net.au (Don Heartfield) writes:
I recently bought a new model XJ6 [1996] 3.2L which I am very happy with.
My question to the experts is regarding wheels. My car comes with steel
wheels [7Jx16] and imitation mag.covers. I would like to fit genuine Jaguar
mags. to the car but the dealers price is $3000. for a set, which I think is
a bit steep.
In this week’s issue of Autocar (UK rag) the results of a 50,000 mile test
of a new-style XJ are published. They went through the list of complaints
with a Jaguar QA chap. All the nigglies but one he could answer. The one
he couldn’t was why the alloys corroded so badly. All he said was that
they preferred to fit steel wheels.
So there you have it, from the horse’s mouth.
On my own Jag, which, however, is eight years old, the alloys are corroded
badly as well. If I could get steel wheels for it I would buy them.
Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 19 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 157
Re: Rear radius arm bushings
Re: prelubrication recommendation
Re: XJ6 Milage?
RE: Lubrication/Anybody use a pre-luber?
door locks
Rear Radius Arms XJ6
road wheels
Re: XJ6 SERIES II Door panels RUST
Chris Sleeman Jag Crash
MK1/2 Spare tire cover
RE: XJ6 SERIES II Door panels RUST
Re: SIII Temp
Re:Mark Stiles’ “Why a Jag” question on jag-lovers-digest V2 #156
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #156
Trunk release cable problem
vacation
Question: SIII E type headliner
Re: Question: SIII E type headliner
I’ve Just bought a Mk II!! - Need advice
SIII Door Panels
Re:Mark Stiles’ “Why a Jag” question on jag-lovers-digest V2 #156
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 09:39:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Rear radius arm bushings
On Jun 18, 1:58pm, Frans HOEKEMEIJER wrote:
Subject: RE: Rear radius arm bushings
Alastair, All the workshop manuals I have for my E-type show that the radius
arm bushes should be installed with the holes fore and aft. This is to give
compliance in that direction. There are hardly any sideways forces and
compliance in that direction is not necessary. If the holes were not
necessary they would not have been provided, unless the installation of
these bushes is different for the heavier models of Jaguars like the S-type.
I hope somebody confirms because this seems an important point.
Frans.>
– End of excerpt from Frans HOEKEMEIJER
Hi
I’d like to add my 2 cents.
You are both right. The manual says to put the holes fore and aft for
compliance, but do you really want compliance in that direction?
The forward pivot of the radius arm is not in line w/ the inner pivot of the
lower a-arm, so in stock form the radius arm works against itself and the whole
geometry is messed up as the susp goes through its travel- a bad design really.
Many racers remove the radius arm and replace it w/ a link that is in line w/
the inner pivot of the lower a-arm and everything is happy (see the excellent
Vicarage E-type!).
Sooo… where do you put the holes? Does not matter. It dosn’t work right
anyway!
Mark McChesney
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 15:42:26 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: prelubrication recommendation
Regarding prelubing pumps : would a “oil changer” pump not do the job ? The kind
of pump you buy for less than $ 20 and which is used to change oil by pumping
it out of the engine through the oil level tube ?
-
- Matthias
From: Are Lorentsen are@vinn.no
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 96 15:40:00 PDT
Subject: Re: XJ6 Milage?
litres of petrol which equates to approx 9k per litre. which comes out at
about
25 miles per gallon.MIK.
Jacques Watson says 7,5 km/l is 17,5 mpg, that is US-gallons(3,785L). Seemes
like MIK are talking English gallons(4,546L).
Are
Narvik, Norway
82XJ6
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 09:56:13 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: RE: Lubrication/Anybody use a pre-luber?
Wow, you’re really making things difficult. Pull the plugs and spin the
engine with the starter. That’s a lot more than they do at the factory!!!
On Mon, 17 Jun 1996, Frans HOEKEMEIJER wrote:
I have never used a preluber but the idea is interesting. In stead of buying
such an expensive equipment I would use a second hand fuel pump from an old
domestic heater burner. These are gear type pumps with an adjustable over
pressure valve and can be had from a heating installation business. I might
try it myself when I start the V8 in my Daimler.
Frans.In a few weeks I plan to try and start my rebuilt V12 for the first
time. I understand that I need to pre-lube the engine first. What I
don’t understand is how I am supposed to do that.My guess (after reading Kirby’s manual) is that I need to get one of
those electric aux oil pumps and install it. I also guess that one of
these would be a good thing to have in the first place.Since they cost $400 or so, I thought I would ask a few questions before
I dealt out the clams…
- If I don’t use one of these pumps, how do I pre-lube?
- If I do need one of these pumps, where do I get one? I found one in
JCWhitney for $420…>ouch<- Anybody here use one? Love it? Hate it?
Dave Covert
…Particle Man, Particle Man, doin’ the things a particle can…
They Might Be Giants
From: “Arnold, Dr Dave” davearno@sandton.senchem.co.za
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 96 15:56:00 PDT
Subject: door locks
What is the most common failure mode for the door locks on the older
XJ6’s? Several of my doors will not lock/unlock. I’ve given up on
trying
to use them.
My next door neighbor has the same model and his have failed as well.
Curt…try a Wynns product called “Wynflon”. None of my XJ6 ser II
door furniture worked, till I took off the door liners and sprayed the
stuff in. If it doesn’t act immediately, just wait a couple of
days…Hope this helps…Dave
From: James_H._Legge@hud.gov
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 96 10:30:13 EST
Subject: Rear Radius Arms XJ6
Jim, (JISBELLJR)
I did the rear radius arm bushings on my '85 XJ6 not too
long ago and it wasn't too bad of a job. The only thing
was, I took the arms and the new bushings out to a local
machine shop and had them press out the old and install the
new bushings, it cost about $20. Also, I had to go out and
find some safety wire, or mechanics wire of the proper gage
to wrap the nuts after torqueing.
While on this subject ... The reason that I replaced
those bushings was that I've had a knock, knock, knock on
take-off, especially when hitting the accelerator and
turning right. It sounds like it's coming from under the
rear seat on the right side. It goes away after reaching
about 5 mph. I've replaced the aforesaid bushings, the
right rear hub bearings (and shimmed to specs), the rear
struts (all four of them) and adjusted the propellor shaft
center bearing many times, and all have had no effect. It
doesn't seem serious, but it is an annoyance. Has anyone
else experienced this ? Please don't tell me it's in the
differential - I'm pretty sure mine is not a limited-slip.
All else is doing fine, the only things that don't work
are a couple of functions on the trip computer - and they
work when the planets line-up in a certain configuration !
Jim
From: Gregory Andrachuk MGB@UVVM.UVic.CA
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 96 09:10:22 PDT
Subject: road wheels
I am interested in purchasing a set of NEW Kent alloy wheels for my Series
III xj6. These are the original equipment, five spoke wheels, not the
"pepper/pot " wheels. Question:does anyone have any experience with the
aftermarket reproductions of these? Does anyone have a set of NEW, that is
UNMARKED wheel to sell? Price? Since I show my car, they have to be
virtually, (no, in fact they have to BE) perfect. Almost perfect
I already have ! Responses please.
Gregory Andrachuk
By the way, the Annual British Car Picnic in Victoria, British Columbia
(every Father-s Day) attracted about 250 British cars from Jensen Healeys to
Bentleys to Minis. Among the Jags were a ONE OWNER, and gorgeous 76 XJC,
a Series II (76) xj6 in Green and Biscuit, also beautiful, a fabulous
black 140 OTS, several concours E types, several Series III xj6 and xj12
models… For any one living in the Southwest of Canada, or the Northwest
of the US, this is a worthwhile, and relaxed show. The only judging is
popular appeal, and there is no entry fee. You simply show up with your
Jaguar (or other) and strawberries and champagne, and enjoy the day and
the cars. Ever seen a REAL Wolseley police saloon (justlike on Miss Marple)?
There was a perfect one on the field. The emphasis is not on concours quality
(although there certainly were some), but on a love of cars English, warts
and all!
From: Gregory Andrachuk MGB@UVVM.UVic.CA
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 96 09:24:00 PDT
Subject: Re: XJ6 SERIES II Door panels RUST
The chrome sleeve must be gently pried back to remove the set screw, then
the whole assembly slides bac. In other words, there are TWO directions
of removal: UP for the rear end, and BACK for the front. This will be
obvious when it comes off. It is to prevent movement.
Gregory Andrachuk
From: Mark Budd MBudd@inforoute.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 18:29:30 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Chris Sleeman Jag Crash
Hi Chris,
You wrote about your wife viewing the accident with the new Jag. Bad
story, but I did find it strange that the laws for insurance had seemed very
“dated.” In Montreal, (in Canada all over maybe?) you can’t buy the plate
for your car without having proof of insurance! This story would of happened
10 years ago, but no longer! They even have insurance on the plate itself in
case of bodily harm to a pedestrian etc… I have fire and theft insurance on
my E-Type while it’s being restored!
Another thing, we don’t argue anymore about who was to blame for an
accident. It was tying up the courts every case, because who wants that kind
of thing on their record?, so we have no fault insurance. No arguing, no
fights at the scene. Each pay the deductible and get on with it. Accidents
are just that…
One could sue for the deductible if you felt wronged, but it’s not worth it.
I felt sorry for the Jag owner you described, but wonder how this set up was
allowed to happen! I we also have 2 way insurance as an option here of
course, and one way that covers you for the damage “you” do to someone
else’s car, but not paying for the damage to your own, but I’m sure you’ve
heard all about that!
Poor owner, but he/she walked into that one!
Mark Budd
'70 Roadster
From: Ryan Border rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 10:36:03 -0700
Subject: MK1/2 Spare tire cover
I’ve got a 205 65 R14 tire on my spare wheel; which is preventing the
metal spare wheel cover from seating properly; it just sits up on the
tire. Anyone else have (solved) this problem? I’m imagining some
kind of shim that would sit in the lip that the cover usually goes
on, and provides a raised lip for the wheel cover to actually
sit on. I can’t be the first person to face this dilemna. Any other
ideas (besides using a down-sized spare)?
Ryan.
From: Tommy loner@peterboro.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 14:08:38 -0400
Subject: RE: XJ6 SERIES II Door panels RUST
Hey All!
On my 1980 XJ6 (as in Series 3) that chrome sleeve slides along the = "handle" (be careful not to cut into the vinyl on the handle) and in = doing so exposes a screw that fastens the handle to the inside of the = door. This applies to the front doors only. Tommy loner@peterboro.net From: B0R0@ozemail.com.au[SMTP:B0R0@ozemail.com.au] Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 1996 12:35 PM To: jag-lovers@sn.no Subject: XJ6 SERIES II Door panels RUST Jaguar XJ6 series II I have just found that i have some rust at the bottom of the door on the = passenger side, and i have started to take of the panels so i can get = into the=20 bottom from the inside and unblock the hole to let out the water and = spray in=20 some fish oil, (untill i can afford to get a complete respray next year) now i have out the screws and pushed up the newspaper holder but the = extension=20 arm (the end with the chrome sleve) wont come off, how do i remove this = piece so=20 that i can get into the door. and no i dont have a manual. thanx for help in advance. MIK. From: "Michael P. Neal" <mneal@wco.com> Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 11:05:42 -0700 Subject: Re: SIII Temp Lawrence Karpman wrote:
I will head your advice (m.neal) and have my radiator rodded, thermostat
replaced, and temp sensor also. But I’ve noticed something appaently odd.
The thermostat opening doesn’t provide any great drama that you were looking for.
When the engine is brought to operating temp (90) and the cap on the
expansion tank is removed, no coolant is being sucked into the system. The
tank remains full and pulsates slightly. I would have thought it would be
sucked in when the thermostat opened.
The SIII is pretty good at self bleeding. Generally you just need to top off the
tank after the thermostat opens.
I was told that because I didn’t “burp” the system after I replaced the top
hose, that I have air in my system.
You aren’t dumb if you are asking, we all know what ASSUME means!
I’m dumb, so you comments are very important to me.
Larry Karpman
'85 XJ-6
From: Robert E Gibson rgibson@hawaii.edu
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 09:31:31 -1000
Subject: Re:Mark Stiles’ “Why a Jag” question on jag-lovers-digest V2 #156
I have had three months of “Very nice - but why didn’t you buy a
BMW/Mercedes/Lexus?” since I bought my lovely '87 XJ6 Vanden Plas. At
first I only smiled and shrugged, but now I have part of an answer. When
asked, I now say, “Look, I am 60 years old. When I drive through Waikiki,
lovely ladies of all ages look at me and smile. That never happened in
any other car I ever drove.” That is just for starters. I am now
gathering more data for future answers. But deep down inside I know the
most important reason is that I just love this car. Bob Gibson -
Honolulu, Hawaii
From: “T.J. Mitchell” tjmitch@citynet.net
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 16:12:55 -0400
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #156
Dear Jag Lovers:
Need to replace console wood on series III xj6. Any ideas on where a kit
can be found that will approx match wood on dash.
Also, wood on glove box cracked. Underlying wood looks good, however, need
refinished. Anyone have any idea what varnish/shellack/finish is used to
give that unique golden hue on jag wood?
Any ideas greatly appreciated.
From: LLoyd 3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@pucc.PRINCETON.EDU
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 96 09:11:29 PDT
Subject: Trunk release cable problem
I can’t remember who had the cable releaase problem, but I got mine to show
the same symptoms over the weekend.
On the “e” type, the cable must remain positioned correctly within the housin
g. For example. if you pull the cable, and then turn it a few degrees, it will
not retract back into the housing. So your trunk will not latch, or will latch
just barely, then pop open at the most inappropriate time.
The fix is to release the cable from the latch, pull and push the cable
a few times, rotating it so that it will go completely back into the housing.
Then with it pushed all the way into the housing, reattach the cable to the
latch. Lock and unlock by had a few times without actually closing the trunk
until it works properly.
LLoyd
From: LLoyd 3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@pucc.PRINCETON.EDU
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 96 09:17:38 PDT
Subject: vacation
I will be unsubscribing today to go on vacaton. Take care all, see you in abo
ut 4 weeks.
LLoyds
From: jman@anchor.cs.colorado.edu
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 14:58:42 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Question: SIII E type headliner
I've been following the jag-lovers digest for the last two months.
I got on the Jaguar bandwagon when I signed up to restore my
fathers 1972 V12 2+2 Etype. The car (purchased new in 1972 by
my father) sat in a garage collecting dust for 12 years. My mother
wanted to get rid if it, so I volunteered to put it back in running
order. The car has been running for about 6 months (another story),
and now I really want to put a headliner in it. The original headliner
has since turned to dust.
Anyone out there have any experience/insight into replacement. I
recall some mail a while back on the subject, but can't seem to find
them anymore. I would like to know if the headliner board can be
removed from the car to do the installation. The Jaguar
manual says it comes out through the windshield, and I really don't
want to remove the windshield. Also, what kind of glue should one
use, and how much material is needed to do the job.
Thanks in Advance,
Jim Mankovich
jman@cs.colorado.edu or jman@convex.com
Technical Consulting Engineer http://www.cs.colorado.edu/~jman/Home.html
Hewlett-Packard Company University of Colorado at Boulder
Convex Technology Center ECOT 7-7 Engineering Center
Richardson, TX Campus Box 430
Boulder, Colorado 80309-0430
Phone 303-492-2757
Fax 303-492-2844
From: zavadsky@austin.ibm.com (Vlad Zavadsky)
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 16:23:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Question: SIII E type headliner
Jim,
For about $250, you can get a professional to take the board out,
replace the headliner, and put the board back in. And they’ll even
warranty it. All that without removing the windshield. If you gonna
try to do it yourself, be very careful not to damage the board, they
are not cheap to replace.
Vlad
From: mslade mslade@fidler.co.uk
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 96 10:08:55 BST
Subject: I’ve Just bought a Mk II!! - Need advice
Glad to see you’re getting a MkII - I only got mine ('64 - BRG) a
month ago after fifteen years of wanting. The car (called Grace)
has far surpassed my expectations - the PO didn’t run it much and
the more I have driven her the more the engine has loosened up. My
only problem at the moment is that I have to stop myself from trying
to pass everything on the road! You cruise along at about 2500 rpm
and you think that’s it, but then you floor the throttle and the
beast comes alive! I’ve found the mid-range acceleration to be the
equal of all but the fastest of modern cars. Long term projects
are to replace the steering with a higher ration rack and pinion
power asisted setup, uprate the brakes with later four-pot calipers
from XJS, and improve the handling with a thinker anti-roll bar and
adjustable konis.
I looked into air-conditioning briefly when I was starting to look
for the car - I was quoted about #3,000.00 by R S Coachworks (they
advertise in most of the classic car mags). This is way too
expensive for me so I’ve shelved the idea for the time being. At
the moment I will be fitting an alternator so I can fit a decent
stereo and alarm. I also have a pair of two inch carbs to rebuild
and fit - next project.
I do really want aircon though as I am finding the jag a bit like a
sauna in the hot weather. Therefore please let me know if you find
a more reasonable offer. Also, something I’ve wondered is how easy
it is to take the air-con from a later Jag and fit it - assuming
that you can the stiff cheap from a breakers yard. Does anyone
know what parts you would need to get and how feasable the operation
is yourself (i’m no mechanical duffer, but have no knowledge of how
an A/C system actually works).
Mark '64MkII
From: blackmx5@usa.pipeline.com (Lawrence Karpman)
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 22:59:53 GMT
Subject: SIII Door Panels
Anyone know if the '86 door panels with wood insets will fir the '85 XJ-6 ?
Larry Karpman
From: “Lauren E. Pratt” pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 96 17:05:34 PDT
Subject: Re:Mark Stiles’ “Why a Jag” question on jag-lovers-digest V2 #156
When asked “Why a Jag?”, just say that when you wanted
to move up, you decided to go all the way.
Cheers Lauren
Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 6/18/96
Time: 5:05:34 PM
This message was sent by Chameleon
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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 19 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 158
RE: Chris Sleeman Jag Crash
Re: Quick Story - Enough to make you cry
RE: newcomer
Re: front adjustment / rip off ?
Re: $75 oil pressure guage sender XJ6
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #155
Re: SIII Temp
Re: XJ6 SERIES II Door panels RUST
Re: XJ40 Handbook and “Why a Jag?”
Hark, the Oracle speaks on Oil Pressure Guage senders.
Re: Air Conditioning/Compressor Replacement
Luggage compartment light switch
Catalog
Mk1/2 Spare Tyre Cover & Wheel Sizes
Re: Hark, the Oracle speaks on Oil Pressure Guage senders.
Sc Parts (Fred)
XJ40 – Bonnet lights
Body shells
Re: Catalog
hay-fevererish Mk 2 owner…
From: “Sleeman, Chris (Exchange)” C.Sleeman@praxa.com.au
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 08:59:41 +1000
Subject: RE: Chris Sleeman Jag Crash
All, and Mark Budd,
With regard to insurance in Victoria, Australia…
Registration of the motor vehicle includes third party insurance, which
covers injuries to people. This is all that is required to drive a
vehicle. If you have an accident that is all or part your fault, you
fork out the dollars.
The next level is “Third party property” which covers other people’s
cars and property if the accident was your fault. There is a second
class of this called “third party property, fire and theft” which covers
what it says. Basically you are covered for everything except your
vehicle in an accident that you caused.
Finally there is “comprehensive” which covers all damage to anyone and
anything (supposedly) even if it is your fault. You must pay an excess
(deductable) though.
The reasons that people apportion blame here are caused by insurance and
legality. Many comprehensive policies charge no deductable if you can
name the other driver and it was their fault. Also, our “No Fault”
policies mean that if the accident wasn’t caused by you, you don’t pay
an excess, and you don’t pay a higher premium next year. On the legal
side, whoever caused the accident must pay for the damage. If no one can
be found to blame, the costs are apportioned.
I had an accident a few years ago where I ran up the back of a VW. The
damage to the VW came to about $900. My damage was a bent bumper and
broken turn indicators. I didn’t claim insurance, but the other driver
did. I wrote to her insurance company, and said that I didn’t believe
that the accident was my fault, but that I would still pay 90% of the
repair bill. I got a quote for a new bumper for my car ($1200, for a
Nissan skyline '82) and the whole bill added up to over $2100. I paid
her about $750 and fixed my bumper with a crow bar (it did a really nice
job too!). Bought new lights for $86, and was on my way. If we had the
same insurance that you have, it would have cost me $86 only.
I, for one, have had comprehensive insurance on every car I have ever
owned (10) except for one. That was an old ute that was only worth about
$1000. I could afford to lose it.
Before purchasing most cars, I call up an insurance agent and arrange
for a cover note. They don’t usually charge for this, but they cover
your car for two weeks, and then back-date your comprehensive policy
when you insure with them.
Most policies that I have had will cover you for two weeks if you
purchase a new car to replace the insured one. I hope that the guy who
had the accident has this!
For the record, one of my father’s employees wrote a business car off
before they had insured it. Legally the insurance company (FAI) didn’t
have to pay anything, but they said that because the company usually
insures with them, they will cover it. Now that is service! Mind you,
that was about ten years ago, I would not expect it today.
Regards,
Chris Sleeman
From: ewilliam@cisco.com (Evan Williams)
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 10:43:53 +1000
Subject: Re: Quick Story - Enough to make you cry
Chris,
This guy must have been filthy rich, stupid or both, I was under the
impression that if you had finance you were required to have insurance
before you got to drive the car so I can only assume that he paid cash.
Guess he will claim it against his tax, that will get him 48 cents back per
dollar.
Regards
Evan Williams
Account Manager Federal Region
Email: ewilliam@cisco.com
Phone: 61-6-2180505
Fax: 61-6-2574922
Mobile: 61-0419236992
Page 61-24306381
Cisco Systems Australia
Patience is a virtue afforded
those with nothing better to do
From: “Fulford_Jack” Fulford#u#Jack@mail.ndhm.gtegsc.com
Date: 18 Jun 1996 18:05:50 -0400
Subject: RE: newcomer
Al,
I don’t know prices in the Philippines but, in the US, $14K for a car that
is essentially a shell is veeerrry excessive. I would think that $3-5K for it
would be more then sufficient.
Jack Fulford 67 E-type
Original>Message:
the car
has no engine but the shell seems structurally sound. the interior and
suspension needs major work. the original hardtop is in bad shape and the
owner wants US $ 14,000 for the whole car.the car is RHD and we’re LHD here.
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 19 Jun 96 12:40:09
Subject: Re: front adjustment / rip off ?
Matthias :
So it’s 3 hours which totals up at about $300…reasonable?
Depends on what needs to be done. Adjustment of toe-in only shouldn’t take more
than 20 minutes even if it’s way out as it’s only a matter of turning the
tie-rods after slackening locknuts. Camber adjustment involves taking off the
wheel, slackening inner upper A-arm mounts and transferring shims in and out,
and caster adjustment involves taking off the wheel, slackening upper ball
joint mounts and transferring shims forward and back.
Adjusting the rear camber involves jacking up the rear end, unbolting the inner
drive shaft joints and adding/removing shims; no need to remove wheels.
As I said before, Matthias, if you have a reliable manual that tells you how
much adjustment each shim gives, you can easily do these things yourself with
common hand tools once you get a tyre seller to measure the wheel angles for
you. The Jaguar manual specifies the use of special tools to lock the
suspension at half height, but I believe that is a little too theoretical - it
makes more sense to me if you set the alignments at the normal riding height,
which varies according to how tired the springs are (a major problem on the
V12).
When all the shims don’t give you enough movement; if the angle in question is
still seriously out, you may need to repair or replace a major component. This
is the strongest reason for doing the adjustment yourself; a workshop may well
fail to tell you that there’s a major problem - not a joke, this has happened
to a friend of mine.
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 19 Jun 96 12:48:30
Subject: Re: $75 oil pressure guage sender XJ6
Sounds fair enough, Jim; if the gauge acts in a normal way but merely reads
low, there’s obviously no wiring problem - especially if there’s a clearly
defined but much too low relief valve opening pressure. And yes, the sender is
more likely to suffer than the gauge,as it sits in a nasty, hot, vibrating
environment. Judging by the pattern of postings, this sender appears not to
have been up to the job on certain models.
I guess I have to red the details more carefully…
-
- Jan
From: TPatton111@aol.com
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 22:12:50 -0400
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #155
I just bought a leaping cat (small) hood ornament for my 1982 XJ6. Can
someone tell me exactly how far back to drill the holes?
Please respond to TPatton111@aol.com
Thanks,
Tim Patton
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 19 Jun 96 13:09:37
Subject: Re: SIII Temp
Forgive me for butting in here, but the description of the way your cooling
water behaves seems normal, Larry. And yes, it’s utterly vital to bleed the
radiator. I have put a half-inch piece of large rubber hose on my garden hose
nozzle so it seals against the filler neck. I just open the bleed valve and
turn on the water; when water appears in the bleed valve, the system is full.
To keep a check on leaking, just open the bleed valve three-four minutes after
starting from cold. Depending on how much air comes out before the water, you
can judge nicely how much leakage you have. If no water comes out at all, blow
into the overflow hose with the filler cap tight; you should hear the vacuum
valve in the filler cap “burping” and water should come out soonish at the
bleed valve. If you go cross-eyed before any water comes out, you have a
priority 1 leak…
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 19 Jun 96 13:15:29
Subject: Re: XJ6 SERIES II Door panels RUST
If you mean the little chrome sleeve at the upper end of the door handle, it’s
a snap fitting and you pry it off the door face (carefully) with a screwdriver.
It covers a 1/4"(?) hex-head screw.
- -Jan
From: ewilliam@cisco.com (Evan Williams)
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 12:52:58 +1000
Subject: Re: XJ40 Handbook and “Why a Jag?”
A totally unmechanical point:
When I got the car, many colleagues (not my friends - they have taste)
asked me things like:“Very nice - but why didn’t you buy a BMW/Mercedes/Lexus?”
What would you say to these people?
Mark
The answer is:-
“Because”…people who know who they are generally buy a Jag, people who
are looking for themselves buy the Merc’s and BMW and lost souls buy the
Lexus.
Regards
Evan Williams
Account Manager Federal Region
Email: ewilliam@cisco.com
Phone: 61-6-2180505
Fax: 61-6-2574922
Mobile: 61-0419236992
Page 61-24306381
Cisco Systems Australia
Patience is a virtue afforded
those with nothing better to do
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 21:32:54 -0500
Subject: Hark, the Oracle speaks on Oil Pressure Guage senders.
I opened the old one up just minutes ago.
I will tell you what I found and astound you with the great knowledge that I
have discovered and regale you with tales of mystery and revelation.
Inside the thing is a diaphram (steel I think) that is directly in contact
with the oil on one side and has a limited movement as the oil pressure
increases.
On the outside of the diaphram there is situated, riding against the center of the diaphram, a moveable arm that pivots up and down with the change in the oil pressure. This arm is connected electricaly to the outside of the sender which is screwed into the block and therefore is at ground (earth for the Brits) potential. This arm is connected directly to a “wiper” that slides along a wire wound resistor the end of which is the terminal on the tom of the sender. Just as I predicted before opening the thing up. As oil pressure increases the resistance decreases. Therefore I predict that the guage itself is merely an amp meter that is calibrated to be full scale when the minimum resistance point is reached (maximum current flow) and is “zero” when the maximum resistance point is reached (minimum current flow). The guage must be hooked at one side to the battery and at the other end to the guage perhaps with another resistor in series (inside the guage) that limmits the current to the full scale reading of the guage. This prediction is supported by the fact that the guage shows “zero” when the lead to the sender is removed. There is no “pulse train” there is only a change in resistance. I will now procede to measure the total resistance of the wire, which in this case was unbroken, but had become un-glued (The glue used looked like a very cheap goop that had hardened and deteriorated with heat and age) from the center “form” and was all at one end of the form rather than distributed evenly along its length. This will tell me just what size of “pot” to replace it with. I will have to devise a method of transfering the motion to the shaft of the “pot” but that should be easy. Sure it will cost me more labor than $75 to repair it, but then what is the knowledge worth? And the next time it breaks, which if I do the engineering correctly it wont, I will be able to replace the “pot” in less than 15 minutes. Jim “Better an outlaw than not free.” Nance O’Neil From: Jon Jackson jon1@flash.net Date: Tue, 18 Jun 1996 22:41:42 -0500 Subject: Re: Air Conditioning/Compressor Replacement gvb wrote:
My air conditioning system just quit and it appears that the clutch on the
compressor is not operating. I have a 1985 XJ6. I have not checked the
system out yet but I suspect the meltable fuse has gone due to low freon
level. If this is the case I will replace the whole compressor unit since
it is 11 years old. In Kirby Palm’s help book he mentioned that the GM unit
referred to as an A-6 could be substituted for the original compressor. I
talked to an auto parts store and they told me that there are a few
different models. Does anyone know the model number of this unit that would
require the fewest number of modifications?
Also, Kirby mentions a Ford substitute for the drier unit. Anyone know
the model number on this?Thanks
George Buonanno
1985 XJ6
George,
I replaced my compressor on my 87 XJ-S with a rebuilt on from autozone.
At a cost of $65.00 us. This was asking for the compressor made for my
car.
Jon
From: pbrown@sbnsw.com.au
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 96 0:41:38 ���
Subject: Luggage compartment light switch
Hi,
Three foolish questions:
Does anyone know where the above component is mounted on a Series II? Doesn’t
show up in the manual.
When climate control is selected, is the compressor clutch powered on for all
modes of operation?
Does anyone know how the rear map reading lights (Daimler Double six) are
acutated? One of mine keeps on switching on and depleting the battery.
Many thanks for advice
Peter Brown (Pbrown@sbnsw.com.au)
Tip - reticent or non-existent upshifts on GM400 boxes can be due to
restricted or leaking vacuum modulator → manifold pipes
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 07:18:00 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Catalog
Hello,
I thought about changing my automatic transmission into manual, so I ordered
a catalog from Gran Turismo (Ohio), since they advertised in the last JEC
magazine. They replied promplty with a FAX quote (unfortuenly a little out
of my price range) and send of their High Performance catalog. This catalog
is really nice, + 50 pages with all kind of peformance mods, springs,
torsion bars, gear-boxes, engines etc. and covers XJ6/12 MKX MKII and XK
with lots on E-types.
Their phone number is 216-259 5656 / FAX 216-259 5588
I’m in no way associated with them, I’m just impressed about their catalog.
[it’s contains also minor items like “Hylomar” sealants]
-
- Matthias
From: mslade mslade@fidler.co.uk
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 96 9:10:59 BST
Subject: Mk1/2 Spare Tyre Cover & Wheel Sizes
Whilst my car was in a garage recently, I got a chance to look over
a genuine Coombs MkII they had in for extensive work. This car had
wider tyres and they had overcome the problem you are talking about
by covering the rest of the boot(trunk) floor with thickish wood,
and then putting a thin wood cover over the wheel. This meant that
the whole of the boot floor was level, although you do lose a bit of
depth to the boot. Personally I would favour running a thinner
tyre as the spare, so you don’t have to change anything. On the
car I saw the wood had been painted black, and with wear was
starting to look very scruffy.
On a related point what’s the widest tyres I can fit to my MkII
without rubbing the rear wheel spats?
Mark ('64 MkII)
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 13:28:46 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: Hark, the Oracle speaks on Oil Pressure Guage senders.
Jim,
I had a scope hooked up yesterday night in the garage and as you might have guessed,
no pulses (only a few spikes from the near-by ignition). I did not check
any ranges, as the garage get clocked up with CO2 pretty fast …
Anyhow, why don’t you just try to repair the existing poti if the wire is not
broken ?
-
- Matthias
From: Mark Budd MBudd@inforoute.net
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 14:09:40 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Sc Parts (Fred)
On Wed 12 June 1996
FCB@MI.NET
Fred wrote,
"Hoping to get further info regarding SC Parts Group and hopefully
an address or such. Maybe some help with that phone number. How do I use it?"
Hi Fred!
By the by, I'm a Montrealer first, a Canadian second, and last but
not least, a Quebecer! I am not one of the separatists, but do plan to run
over one, once my E-Type is restored…
The Address for SC Parts Group Ltd. is…
SC Parts Group Ltd.
13 Cobham Way
Gatwick Road Crawley
West Sussex RH10 2RX
England
To phone them, I press this... 01 44 1293 547841 (That right to the
order desk) I think the same would work for you? I’m sure you’ll enjoy the
catalogue. E-mail me about your E-Type, what kind is it, what condition it’s
in, and did you do any of the restoration yourself? I am presently
rebuilding my steering rack after just finishing the front suspension.
(sandblasting and paint, replacing all worn parts to new) I’ll e-mail you
privately about more of it of this weekend. Hope to hear about yours.
See ya!
Mark Budd
'70 XK-E Roadster
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 08:17:35 -0500
Subject: XJ40 – Bonnet lights
I cannot get the bonnet lights to light on my 88 XJ40. I’ve been told that
they should only go on when my front lights are on, is this true? No
matter, they just don’t go on at all.
I checked my manual and don’t see a fuse for them and I’ve tried replacing
the bulbs to no avail.
Any help out there?
Scott Phillips
'88 XJ40 – no bonnet lights, no a/c, but it drives like a dream (oh, I’d
better be careful, I think praising your Jag is like praising your hunting
dog … only do it AFTER they have performed!!!
From: Jerome_J_MOTTA@umail.umd.edu (jm102)
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 96 09:23 EDT
Subject: Body shells
I heard somewhere that XJ body shells are still available (new or
remanufactured). Anyone know anything of this rumor?
Jerry
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 10:14:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Catalog
On Jun 19, 7:18am, Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR wrote:
Subject: Catalog
I ordered
a catalog from Gran Turismo (Ohio), since they advertised in the last JEC
magazine. They replied promplty with a FAX quote (unfortuenly a little out
of my price range) and send of their High Performance catalog. This catalog
is really nice, + 50 pages with all kind of peformance mods, springs,
torsion bars, gear-boxes, engines etc. and covers XJ6/12 MKX MKII and XK
with lots on E-types.
The more you buy from them the more they will cut you deals. They are
charitable to repeat customers!
Mark
From: “Richard King” kingr@sabc.co.za
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 16:36:34 +0200
Subject: hay-fevererish Mk 2 owner…
From: ifinlay@vossnet.co.uk (Ian Finlay)
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 16:47:36 +0100
Subject: I’ve just bought a MKII!! Now need advice …
snip …
So to the questions:
- Does anyone in the UK fit air con at a reasonable cost? My
hay fever is killing me!
…snip
Does the aircon make any difference???
(The only A/C that helps my hay-fever is the one in our Clean Room
here at work…)
I see in a South African car
magazine (called… Car Magazine!) that someone local is making an
evaporative cooler. Looks like a small round tank that goes in the
boot (trunk) and a fan blows air over a wet surface and then through
vents into the car interior. Apart from the cooling effect (if
any…!) I wonder if there wouldn’t be some sort of cleaning effect -
ie pollen and other small particles removed from the air…?
I might even try to make one some day - I would be inclined, perhaps,
to either include a negative ion generator in the thing - or go the
whole hog and try to make a proper electrostatic filter. On the
other hand - there are so many of us poor allergic fellows around,
you’d think, if it did any good, that someone would have done it and
made a fortune already…
ahhhh… cheers!.. tisshhoooo!!
Richard King
Johannesburg
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
'85 Alfa 33 x 2
'75 Peugeot 404
http://www.sabc.co.za/units/henley/optical/pvt/cars.htm
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 19 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 159
Re: Rear radius arms
Re: MK1/2 Spare tire cover
Re: XJ40 – Bonnet lights
RE: XJ6 Series III Body shells
Insurance
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #155 (Small leaper attachment)
Re: XJ6 Paint Match
XJ-40 Bonnet Lights
Re: SIII Temp
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #155 (Small leaper attachment)
Mark II enlarged tyre well
Re: XJ Body shells
Re: Wheel Sizes
Re: XJ40 Handbook and “Why a Jag?”
Re: SIII Temp
Thermostat housing bolts
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #155 (Small leaper attachment)
Re:leaper
FW: Thermostat housing bolts
SIII -XJ6 core (freeze) plug removal/refitting
Re: Mk1/2 Spare Tyre Cover & Wheel Sizes
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 10:52:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Rear radius arms
Clarification
Many racers remove the radius arm and replace it w/ a link that is in line w/
the inner pivot of the lower a-arm and everything is happy…
()
|| STOCK (bad)
||
radius ||
arm ||
|| |
|| ||
|| || || lower
||||___|| wishbone(a-arm)
| ____________ |
|| ||
|| ||
||
|
()
// MODIFIED (good)
// :
// :
// :
//
// _|
// ||
|| // ||
||//||
| _______________
|| ||
|| ||
||
|
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 08:03:00 -0700
Subject: Re: MK1/2 Spare tire cover
You wrote:
I’ve got a 205 65 R14 tire on my spare wheel;
Yes, we do this alot… we take out the spare tyre well and add a rim
to extend its depth and then simply weld it back in…
Fits fine… needless to say this is done in the body shop before prep
and paint …
all the best
tony
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
From: Donald McGregor 01355 262072 Donald.McGregor@snl.co.uk
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 16:04:47 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: Re: XJ40 – Bonnet lights
Scott,
The XJ40 bonnet light come on with the side lights (position
1). Assuming
that your bulbs and fuses are OK, the bonnet switch must be
suspect.
The switch is near the washer bottle / aircon dryer. There may
even be a
relay for the bonnet lamps also.
I’ll double check the bulb sizes & fuse location, when I get
home.
Best of luck.
Donald McGregor ('88 3.6 Sovereign XJ40 - 106,000 miles and no
aircon)
Donald.McGregor@snl.co.uk
(Only 1200 emails left to read after 3 weeks off…)
From: “Roger langley” lang0080@gold.tc.umn.edu
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 10:18:21
Subject: RE: XJ6 Series III Body shells
Special Interest Car Parts shows a series three shell but when I asked about
this on the jagnet, most repondents thought it would be a monstrous job to
migrate old parts to this shell. Part of the problem is how to move it and
store it. Email me off Jagnet if you want more info.
PS Are you in Duluth or another UMD?
Roger Langley
lang0080@gold.tc.umn.edu
612-771-0806
University of Minnesota
St. Paul, Minnesota, USA
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 10:27:08 -0500
Subject: Insurance
Here in Texas you are AUTOMATICALY covered for 30 days after the purchase of
a new car to the extent that your other car(s) are covered. All you have to
do is notify the insurance carrier within that 30 days and agree to pay the
premium.
If you had an accident 29 days after buying the car and called the insurer
the next day to activate the policy for the normal 6 months, you are
covered. There is no requirement that you notify them as soon as the car is
purchased.
This of course would only apply if you already had insurance on one or more
cars. Most people are replacing an insured car when they buy the next one
so that covers most people.
Jim
===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"
John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 10:27:23 -0500
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #155 (Small leaper attachment)
I just bought a leaping cat (small) hood ornament for my 1982 XJ6. Can
someone tell me exactly how far back to drill the holes?
About 4" to the rear of the rear license plate.
Jim
===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"
John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: Donald McGregor 01355 262072 Donald.McGregor@snl.co.uk
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 16:45:28 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: Re: XJ6 Paint Match
Andy,
I used my local Paint shop suppliers to make me three aerosols
of my paint. All I had to do was give them the paint code off
the
label in the door jamb. Cost around 3 pounds (UK) per 250ml
can.
The paint match was perfect…but my spraying isn’t up to
much…
Apologies for the late replies only 1000 emails left to read
Donald.McGregor@snl.co.uk
('88 3.6 Sovereign XJ40)
From: PLacey@swri.edu
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 96 10:59:27 CDT
Subject: XJ-40 Bonnet Lights
Same here. The under-hood lights on my 1988 XJ-40 also seem to work or not
at will. Mostly, they do not seem to work! If you come up with a solution
please let us know.
Paul Lacey
From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 09:38:59 -0700
Subject: Re: SIII Temp
No, it is not necessary to bleed the radiator. I’ve probably done over 100 radiator jobs on the S3 XJ6
and have had no problems!!! There is no bleed valve on a S3 XJ6, get your damn models straight.
How many times do I have to go off on this! Know the difference between models if you are going to “butt in”.
Jan Wikstroem wrote:
Forgive me for butting in here, but the description of the way your cooling
water behaves seems normal, Larry. And yes, it’s utterly vital to bleed the
radiator. I have put a half-inch piece of large rubber hose on my garden hose
nozzle so it seals against the filler neck. I just open the bleed valve and
turn on the water; when water appears in the bleed valve, the system is full.To keep a check on leaking, just open the bleed valve three-four minutes after
starting from cold. Depending on how much air comes out before the water, you
can judge nicely how much leakage you have. If no water comes out at all, blow
into the overflow hose with the filler cap tight; you should hear the vacuum
valve in the filler cap “burping” and water should come out soonish at the
bleed valve. If you go cross-eyed before any water comes out, you have a
priority 1 leak…
- Jan
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 10:27:23 -0500
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #155 (Small leaper attachment)
Jim is pulling your leg…
<>I just bought a leaping cat (small) hood ornament for my 1982 XJ6. Can
<>someone tell me exactly how far back to drill the holes?
<>
<
<About 4" to the rear of the rear license plate.
The real purists correctly and precisely place it closer to 4 7/32 inches
rear of the license plate.
LLoyd
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 10:48:10 -0700
Subject: Mark II enlarged tyre well
This is multipart MIME message.
- –qhqxpvpstmgorplykrhpnupspsjjwt
Content-Type:text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; name=“NCZ0474.TMP”
see attached
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
- –qhqxpvpstmgorplykrhpnupspsjjwt
Content-Type:text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; name=“00001060.msg”
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com(Anthony Parkinson )
Subject: Re: MK1/2 Spare tire cover
To: Ryan Border rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com
Cc: jag-lovers@sn.no
You wrote:
I’ve got a 205 65 R14 tire on my spare wheel;
Yes, we do this alot… we take out the spare tyre well and add a rim
to extend its depth and then simply weld it back in…
Fits fine… needless to say this is done in the body shop before prep
and paint …
all the best
tony
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
- –qhqxpvpstmgorplykrhpnupspsjjwt–
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 10:53:00 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ Body shells
You wrote:
I heard somewhere that XJ body shells are still available (new or
remanufactured). Anyone know anything of this rumor?
Yes, Jerry they were available at Pressed Steel Fisher ( UK)…
cheap … now I am not sure…
all the best
tony
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 10:51:09 -0700
Subject: Re: Wheel Sizes
You wrote:
This car had
wider tyres and they had overcome the problem you are talking about
by covering the rest of the boot(trunk) floor with thickish wood,
and then putting a thin wood cover over the wheel.
Perhaps you may have seen our reply onthis .we make the tyre well
deeper . so no change to the floor…
On a related point what’s the widest tyres I can fit to my MkII without rubbing the rear wheel spats? We use 205s at the maximum but that may be with our smaller welded spats only… 195s should be no problem all the best tony VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations fax 305 443 6443 http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com Inactive web From: tony goodall tony@goodall.u-net.com Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 19:34:59 +0100 Subject: Re: XJ40 Handbook and “Why a Jag?” At 09:16 18/06/96 +0100, Mark Stiles wrote:
When I got the car, many colleagues (not my friends - they have taste)
asked me things like:“Very nice - but why didn’t you buy a BMW/Mercedes/Lexus?”
- well I know its a stupid question but I did have difficulty
explaining in terms that made sense to them. (To me BMWs are naff,
Mercs well built but a bit too teutonic and hold their value too well
for me to be able to buy an equivalent age one, and Lexus look like
someone started designing a Merc but made it too fat and got the front
wrong)
(these observations apply in the UK only, I have too little data for elsewhere)
BMWs are for people more interested in the badge than the car.
Most BMW owners think that a 1.6 BMW is classy, although few
BMWs are large or classy. Only the 7 and 8 series compete with jags
This also means that second hand BMWs are overpriced, because
The herd want them, and compete to buy them.
A 316 looks like a mid-range saloon to me, but not some sheep,
(hmmm costs same as a family car, same engine, same shape…)
Mercedes - when we had a hired 1.8 merc for a few days, everyone stared at us.
Why are people so sad, it’s the same thing, the badge more important than the
car. Fortunately, Merc do make good, classy big cars. the 500s and 600s a match
(engineering-wise) for a Jag. But people associate this class with the 1.8
and 2.0 models
why??? Same value-holding as BMWs, but at least there’s some reason for it,
although most UK mercs are weedy and underpowered.
The Lexus - the plastic merc. Toyota make nice modern plasticky sports cars,
The supra is good at what it attempts to be. The Lexus attempts to compete with
Jags, etc., but fails. From the outside, it looks like any other jap car.
Inside, it is way too plasticky and has no class at all. It barely beats a Ford
Granada for class inside (We have one)
Bear in mind that many UK company directors drive Jags to “fly the flag”,
and this causes a glut of second hand Jaggs in the UK, hence the low prices.
Does this make them poor cars??? I don’t think so…
Tell your colleagues - if they want to follow the other sheep, and pay extra
for an inferior and less classy car, good luck to them!!
Emperor’s new clothes … every time at the lights, Jags beat weedy BMWs and
Mercs,
and match the big ones.
Cheapest Jag = 30k (3.2i)
Cheapest BMW =15k (1.6i)
top Jag = 70k (6.0i v12)
top BMW = 80k (5.0i)
cheapest Merc = 1.8 at 20k
top merc = 100k, for a 6.0i??
Therefore -
all Jags are better than most Mercs on the road, Most BMWs on the road
All Jags are morer classy than all Lexii
All jags are classier than all BMWs and Mercs
All Jags are way classier than most BMWs and Mercs
Ask these people = Would they pay 100k for a 2-bed terraced house, when a
5-bed detached is 100 yards away, for 50k???
Emperor’s new clothes…
cheers
tony
Dr. A. Goodall http://www.u-net.com/~goodall/
From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 13:10:00 MDT
Subject: Re: SIII Temp
No, it is not necessary to bleed the radiator. I’ve probably done over 100 radiator jobs on the S3 XJ6
and have had no problems!!! There is no bleed valve on a S3 XJ6, get your damn models straight.
How many times do I have to go off on this! Know the difference between models if you are going to “butt in”.
Excuse me ? I have seen flames around here but I think that this
kind of reply is out of order. We all appreciate and highly
value your expertise, but this kind of response would be, in my humble
opinion, better on a one to one basis. You ARE right, you don’t have
to bleed the series III. However, if somebody’s lack of knowledge or
incorrect answer resulting from an honest mistake makes somebody that
angry, I would prefer not to hear it. Politeness does make a difference.
I have found Jan to be always very helpful and personable. Not all
of us are expert in the field of Jaguars, engineering or whatever,
and some allowance needs to be made for the fact that this is an environment where
most of us come to BECAUSE we don’t know all we need or want to about
the cars.
Kind regards,
Jim Cantrell
76 XJ12C
76 XJ6C
66 Alpine 2.8L
From: blackmx5@usa.pipeline.com (Lawrence Karpman)
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 15:15:15 -0400
Subject: Thermostat housing bolts
As anticipated, I cannot, nor can two local shops, remove two of the three
thermostat housing bolts. They feel as though they will twist off.Any help
out there?
Larry Karpman
'85 XJ-6
From: hdrsons@iamerica.net (Hal Rogers)
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 14:27:17 -0600
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #155 (Small leaper attachment)
At 10:27 AM 6/19/96 -0500, Jim Isbell wrote:
I just bought a leaping cat (small) hood ornament for my 1982 XJ6. Can
someone tell me exactly how far back to drill the holes?About 4" to the rear of the rear license plate.
Jim
Hmmmm…do you drag that leaping cat on a tow rope from the rear bumper?
Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
Import Auto Specialists
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax
Serving Auto Enthusiasts since 1959
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 16:08:12 -0400
Subject: Re:leaper
Jim is pulling your leg…
<>I just bought a leaping cat (small) hood ornament for my 1982 XJ6. Can
<>someone tell me exactly how far back to drill the holes?
<>
<
<About 4" to the rear of the rear license plate.
The real purists correctly and precisely place it closer to 4 7/32 inches
rear of the license plate.
The way I heard it, you measure back 4 7/32 inches from the eyebrows.
Mike
From: Gavin Murphy gmurphy@telalink.net
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 15:38:28 -0500
Subject: FW: Thermostat housing bolts
Probably not what you want to hear but I had the same problem on my '83.
One bolt came out clean the head sheared of the second and the third =
would not turn at all.
After three evenings of cut knuckles etc. I ended up cutting the whole =
housing off the block. I suspect the P.O. used a bolt sealer when they =
last changed the thermostat. On the plus side I got a second hand =
housing for 60.00 bucks.
Good Luck.
Gavin.
'83 XJ6 VDP
From: Lawrence Karpman[SMTP:blackmx5@usa.pipeline.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 1996 2:15 PM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Thermostat housing bolts
As anticipated, I cannot, nor can two local shops, remove two of the =
three
thermostat housing bolts. They feel as though they will twist off.Any =
help
out there?=20
=20
Larry Karpman=20
'85 XJ-6
From: “Peter Hamel (h)” pete-hamel@dial.pipex.com
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 21:12:53 +0000
Subject: SIII -XJ6 core (freeze) plug removal/refitting
Dear JLs,
I have a coolant leak from one of the core (freeze?) plugs on the top of
my cylinder head. Its an '86 4.2 engine, and the plug is about 3/4 inch
in diam. closest to the front of the engine. How do I remove the plug,
and can I do this with everything in place (ie without removing head
etc)?
How is the new plug inserted, is it just hammered carefully into place?
Also do I have to use any kind of sealant when putting the new one in to
avoid leaks?
Thanks in advance
Pete Hamel
From: John McDonagh MCDONAGJ@tui.lincoln.ac.nz
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 09:30:57 +1200
Subject: Re: Mk1/2 Spare Tyre Cover & Wheel Sizes
Re tyre sizes, even the standard 185 radials will rub on the spats if
you do some vigorous cornering. I have 205/65’s on mine and have
modified the front corners of the spats very slightly but they still
rub pretty bad. I leave them off a lot of the time.
The Coombs cars had modified spats because of this problem and you
can get fiberglass spats that are not as wide as the standard ones -
in fact they only are about two inches wide and cover little more
than the groove in which the standard spat sits. They can be attached
permanently as you can remove the wheel with them still on.
John McDonagh
Department of Accounting Finance and Property Studies
Lincoln University
Christchurch
New Zealand
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #159
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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 20 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 160
Re: hay-fevererish Mk 2 owner…
leaper
XJ6 SIII Thermostat Housing Bolts
Re: SIII Temp
Re: Thermostat housing bolts
Re: Thermostat housing bolts
Re: Thermostat housing bolts
You think you’ve got problems (Was: “Why a Jag?”)
Wood Trim matching
Re:Mark Stiles’ “Why a Jag” question on jag-lovers-digest V2 #156
Re: XJ-40 Bonnet Lights
Re: XJ40 – Bonnet lights
External Door Handles on 1990 XJ40
Re: XK Engine Thermostat Housing Bolts
Small leaper attachment [S3 XJ6]
E-Type Series 3 Manual
Re: SIII Temp
Re: XJC; XK120 alloy
Re: SIII Temp
Insurance (& bonnet leaper…sigh)
From: John McDonagh MCDONAGJ@tui.lincoln.ac.nz
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 09:37:18 +1200
Subject: Re: hay-fevererish Mk 2 owner…
The Beecham Jags built here (similar concept to the Vicarage cars)
are mainly sent to Japan and air conditioning is a popular option. I
have seen photos of their installation and apparently it sits inside a
modified heater box which looks standard from under the bonnet but
extends further inside under the dash so you loose the use of the
glovebox.
I don’t know if they would sell you the setup seperately and I bet it
would be expensive, but I could probably find their address if
anybody is interested.
John McDonagh
Department of Accounting Finance and Property Studies
Lincoln University
Christchurch
New Zealand
From: tony goodall tony@goodall.u-net.com
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 22:40:04 +0100
Subject: leaper
ah
but what shall I do with the leaper already on my XJ40 daimler?
(there when I bought it)
tony
Dr. A. Goodall http://www.u-net.com/~goodall/
From: Dan Jensen Dan.Jensen@GAT.COM
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 14:58:40 -0700
Subject: XJ6 SIII Thermostat Housing Bolts
Larry:
I am not sure which model you are referring to, but I will relate my own
very recent experience. When pulling the thermostat housing off of my '83
XJ6, which to my knowledge had never been done by the PO, I was not able to
remove two of the bolts. I resorted to removing the coolant rail from the
head, using various anti-rust compounds, allowoing time, etc. In the end,
the two bolt heads simply twisted off. The bolts were effectively bonded to
the housing due to accummulation of crude and probably galvanic corrosion
between the steel bolts and aluminium housing. I had to drill out the bolts
through virtually the entire length of the housing (tricky) since I did not
have access to a press. Because the threads in the coolant rail were also
beyond repair, I added longer bolts and nuts. Turned out o.k., but it was a
fair amount of work.
Dan Jensen
'81 & '83 XJ6
'84 XJS
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 13:31:51 -0700
Subject: Re: SIII Temp
Jim,
In case you hadn’t noticed I’ve been trying to beat it into everyone’s head here
that model specific information is just that, model specific. In case you missed my
ten other replies on similar type situations this has become a real problem here.
We finally are getting people to include the model in the header and then the others
just go and ignore it in their response. I’ve had to resort to flaming because it
just isn’t sinking in. Jan’s response was directly contradictive to what I said and
was 100% wrong. He was talking about a car that was not a S3 XJ6! This is a list
matter, he chose to post to the entire list so that’s where my reply was directed.
Until people get the message I will continue to flame. Misinformation is a waste of
all our time here. If you don’t like what I have to say or how I say it then simply
put me in your mail kill file!
Jim Cantrell wrote:
No, it is not necessary to bleed the radiator. I’ve probably done over 100 radiator jobs on the S3 XJ6
and have had no problems!!! There is no bleed valve on a S3 XJ6, get your damn models straight.
How many times do I have to go off on this! Know the difference between models if you are going to “butt in”.Excuse me ? I have seen flames around here but I think that this
kind of reply is out of order. We all appreciate and highly
value your expertise, but this kind of response would be, in my humble
opinion, better on a one to one basis. You ARE right, you don’t have
to bleed the series III. However, if somebody’s lack of knowledge or
incorrect answer resulting from an honest mistake makes somebody that
angry, I would prefer not to hear it. Politeness does make a difference.
I have found Jan to be always very helpful and personable. Not all
of us are expert in the field of Jaguars, engineering or whatever,
and some allowance needs to be made for the fact that this is an environment where
most of us come to BECAUSE we don’t know all we need or want to about
the cars.Kind regards,
Jim Cantrell
76 XJ12C
76 XJ6C
66 Alpine 2.8L
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 13:36:26 -0700
Subject: Re: Thermostat housing bolts
Larry,
You seem to have spent a bit of time on this already so I have a
suggestion. Snap the bolt heads off, easily done, and cut them off at
the back of the thermostat housing, not the outer cover. Order a used
housing from Jag Heaven for $30 and be on your way. The bolts corrode
in the housing and basically freeze up there. I have a collection of
these damn things! I like to re-thread the threads in the manifold with
helicoils to give a better anchor for the bolts in the aluminum in water
rail.
Lawrence Karpman wrote:
As anticipated, I cannot, nor can two local shops, remove two of the three
thermostat housing bolts. They feel as though they will twist off.Any help
out there?Larry Karpman
'85 XJ-6
From: blackmx5@usa.pipeline.com (Lawrence Karpman)
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 22:19:14 GMT
Subject: Re: Thermostat housing bolts
Thanks again. One question. If I cut the bolts off at the back of the
thermostat housing, how do I get the leftovers out of the water manifold?
Larry
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 14:55:12 -0700
Subject: Re: Thermostat housing bolts
Larry,
They screw out fairly easy from the water rail. They are
just frozen in the “disposable” thermostat housing. When
cutting the housing be careful to cut the housing and not the
water rail.
Lawrence Karpman wrote:
Thanks again. One question. If I cut the bolts off at the back of the
thermostat housing, how do I get the leftovers out of the water manifold?Larry
From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 00:44:34 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: You think you’ve got problems (Was: “Why a Jag?”)
On Wed, 19 Jun 1996, tony goodall wrote:
Cheapest Jag = 30k (3.2i)
Cheapest BMW =15k (1.6i)
top Jag = 70k (6.0i v12)
top BMW = 80k (5.0i)cheapest Merc = 1.8 at 20k
top merc = 100k, for a 6.0i??
OK people, time to make you realize just how lucky you are. Here are the
prices for a selection of new cars in Norway. All prices taken from the
latest issue of “BIL”, a Norwegian auto monthly.
NOK = Norwegian Kroner, L = Pound Sterling and $ = USD.
Exchange rates: NOK 1 = $0.15 = L0.10 (NOK 10/L and NOK 6.5/$).
I list two models for each make, the cheapest and the most expensive.
Make model NOK $ L
Jaguar XJ6 3.2 SWB 851,600 131,015 85,160
Daimler Double Six LWB 2,028,800 312,123 202,880
Mercedes C 180 298,000 45,846 29,800
Mercedes S 600 C 3,203,700 492,877 320,370
BMW 316i Compact 229,800 35,354 22,980
BMW 850CSi 1,995,000 306,923 199,500
Lexus LS400 (only model listed) 1,301,300 200,200 130,130
Porsche 911 Carrera 1,468,500 225,923 146,850
Porsche 911 Turbo 2,551,500 392,538 255,150
Ferrari F355 GTB 2,128,838 327,514 212,883
Ferrari 456 GT 3,856,731 593,343 385,673
Bentley Brooklands 2,520,000 387,692 252,000
Bentley Continental (4 door) 4,450,000 684,615 445,000
Chrysler Neon 2.0 SE 189,900 29,215 18,990
Chrysler Viper RT/10 1,990,000 306,154 199,000
Mazda 323 1.3 LX (3 door) 155,900 23,985 15,590
Mazda Xedos 9 2.5 automatic 460,000 70,769 46,000
And just for kicks, what I just paid for my 10 year old Jaguar:
'86 Jaguar XJ6 4.2 Sovereign 205,000 31,538 20,500
What I paid 2 years ago for a new '94 US Ford Conversion van:
'94 Ford E-350 7.3D conversion van 303,000 46,615 30,300
The price for my Jaguar was fair, if not cheap, by Norwegian standards.
But then the car is in good shape. Why didn’t I just import one from the
US or the UK? Nah, wouldn’t save much. By the time I’d got it through
customs and finally (you wouldn’t believe the red tape) got license
plates on it, it would have cost me more or less the same.
The reason cars are this expensive here? Taxes of course. Anyone feel
like moving to Norway?
Sorry to rant and rave on about this, but I get a little jealous when I
read about the prices you guys pay for your cars…
Gunnar
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar XJ6 4.2 Sovereign
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | Vicki who? What .sig virus?
From: david_gruber@fmc.com (DAVID GRUBER)
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 18:52:29 -0500
Subject: Wood Trim matching
After attempting (unsuccessfully) to refurbish the wood trim piece surrounding
the gearshift on my 87 xj6III, I decided to bite the bullet and replace the
piece with a new one from a dealer.
I ordered the replacement from Thoroughbred Motorcars and was given the choice
of either burled or figured walnut. The parts salesman couldn’t really explain
the difference, except that the burled was dark and the figured lighter. He
also checked with the parts manager who said that burled was standard and the
figured rarer (perhaps optional?). I checked the factory invoice for the car
and it only said “Walnut” - there were no options on the car. I went with the
walnut burl.
Of course, when it arrived, it looked NOTHING like the original wood. Not only
was it very dark, but it had quite a bit of grain in the design whereas my
dashboard pieces show heavy burl with no grain evident. My dash has an orangish
red tint to it.
Thoroughbred was kind enough to accept the item in return for the other
(lighter) piece. When that arrived, I was disappointed to find that it was
still significantly darker, browner, and grainier than my original wood and had
very little burl.
Questions:
-
How does the wood trim change with age? Does it lighten or change tint as
the varnish ages? -
Is replacing a single piece a waste of time? I know that Vicarage has a full
dash kit for about $800. -
I’ve heard of a place called Medira (sp?) Concepts that can refinish
individual pieces to match original pieces. Has anyone used them? -
Does anyone have any insight into the burled vs. figured walnut confusion?
Many thanks,
Dave
From: stephen@kurtzman.com (stephen kurtzman)
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 16:28:48 -0800
Subject: Re:Mark Stiles’ “Why a Jag” question on jag-lovers-digest V2 #156
I have had three months of “Very nice - but why didn’t you buy a
BMW/Mercedes/Lexus?” since I bought my lovely '87 XJ6 Vanden Plas. At
first I only smiled and shrugged, but now I have part of an answer. When
asked, I now say, “Look, I am 60 years old. When I drive through Waikiki,
lovely ladies of all ages look at me and smile. That never happened in
any other car I ever drove.” That is just for starters. I am now
gathering more data for future answers. But deep down inside I know the
most important reason is that I just love this car. Bob Gibson -
Honolulu, Hawaii
BMW, Mercedes and Lexus appeal immediately to logic. You appreciate their
precision manufacturing. Buy one of these cars and you rest comfortably in
the knowledge that you purchased a fine car.
Jaguar immediately grabs you by your sense of aesthetics. Then it woos you
with its performance. The manufacturing quality is high, but it is the
craftsmanship and attention to details that soothes you. Buy a Jag and you
rest comfortably in your car.
From: ewilliam@cisco.com (Evan Williams)
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 11:05:39 +1000
Subject: Re: XJ-40 Bonnet Lights
Same here. The under-hood lights on my 1988 XJ-40 also seem to work or not
at will. Mostly, they do not seem to work! If you come up with a solution
please let us know.
Paul Lacey
Put mine down for this one as well, checked the switch bulb’s and gave up
thinking I’ll do it one day. Lucky I have never needed them.
Regards
Evan Williams
Account Manager Federal Region
Email: ewilliam@cisco.com
Phone: 61-6-2180505
Fax: 61-6-2574922
Mobile: 61-0419236992
Page 61-24306381
Cisco Systems Australia
Patience is a virtue afforded
those with nothing better to do
From: ajbeale@squirrel.com.au (A.J. Beale)
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 11:34:42 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ40 – Bonnet lights
I cannot get the bonnet lights to light on my 88 XJ40. I’ve been told that
they should only go on when my front lights are on, is this true? No
matter, they just don’t go on at all.I checked my manual and don’t see a fuse for them and I’ve tried replacing
the bulbs to no avail.
My car is a 1990 XJ40, but the system may be the same and I had the same
problem. The fault was in the switch. I’m not sure if it is a Lucas, but
it looks like a typical example of Lucas wizardry. As the switch spends
most of its time in the “off” position and is spring loaded to come on when
the bonnet is lifted, the spring weakens and the plunger does not lift high
enough. Check this by turning on the parking lights and lifting up the
switch plunger (located right hand side, front) which should turn the lights
on. With a little tinkering, you should be able to improve the operation
and avoid replacing the switch. Alan.
From: ajbeale@squirrel.com.au (A.J. Beale)
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 11:48:53 -0700
Subject: External Door Handles on 1990 XJ40
Frequently, an external door handle on my '90 XJ40 is very difficult to
operate, making it necessary to push in on the door while lifting the handle
or risking breaking something. I have been told that these door handles are
like this and breakages are not uncommon. Has anyone else had and
preferably fixed this problem or can suggest how it might be fixed?? Alan.
From: Kroppe kroppe@mich.com
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 22:11:14 -0400
Subject: Re: XK Engine Thermostat Housing Bolts
Re: the conversation on removing the stuck bolts.
My '82 4.2l had the same problem. I, too, felt like I would twist the
bolts off. My solution was patience and WD40. I squirted the housing
bolts thoroughly every night for a week. Also, I soaked the gasket
between the t’stat housing and water rail with WD40, and scraped as much
gasket away with a razor blade. My thinking was twofold:
- Soaking the gasket will get more WD40 to the threads
- Scraping the gasket away will relieve the tension on the threads
Eventually they came off. If you don’t have time on your side, you may
have to resort to brute force. (which, in my opinion, is to be avoided.)
I have been the victim of my own brute force repair procedures in the
past.
Which goes to show, that all you really need in this world is a can of
WD40, a roll of duct tape and a pair of channel locks and you can do
anything.
B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 20 Jun 96 13:11:34
Subject: Small leaper attachment [S3 XJ6]
Jim Isbell wrote:
Jim is pulling your leg…
<>I just bought a leaping cat (small) hood ornament for my 1982 XJ6. Can
<>someone tell me exactly how far back to drill the holes?
<>
<
<About 4" to the rear of the rear license plate.
The real purists correctly and precisely place it closer to 4 7/32 inches
rear of the license plate.
So much for purists. Helpful people say “Put it where you think it looks good,
since it isn’t standard anyway”
Mine are S2, so the (standard) placement may not do you much good. Let me know
if you’re interested anyway, and I’ll run a tape over it.
-
- Jan
From: “George W. Cohn” gwcohn@azstarnet.com
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 19:10:34 -0700
Subject: E-Type Series 3 Manual
I just received a neat package by UPS today. A salesman in Texas that I
buy from frequently found a E-Type series 3 Service manual at a yard sale
and sent it to me. The manual is in a light blue 4 ring binder with
raised lettering on the cover and is copyrighted 1971. It is in pristine
condition with no fingerprints or grease stains on it. I would like to
send him a thank you gift in return but I would like to know what this
thing is worth. I’m thinking that it is an original manual. If so, does
anyone have an estimation of it’s value? I’m restoring a series 2 E-type
so it is not exactly appropriate but I may be able to use it to trade for
something I need later. Thanks in advance for any input.
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 20 Jun 96 15:49:34
Subject: Re: SIII Temp
OK guys, let’s cool it (!). I admit freely that I’m utterly ignorant of S3.
When the originator mentioned bleeding the cooling system, I jumped to the
conclusion that S3 had the same arrangement as S2, which maybe I shouldn’t
have. I’ll restrain myself in future and only respond to S2 V12 and general
matters…
Oh well, maybe the odd philosophical one, like “why a Jaguar”, to which my
answer varies with the audience, like
“If you have to ask, you’ll never know”
“It’s the only V12 I can afford”
“If an old bomb is all you can afford, let it be an exciting old bomb”
“BMW has produced two classics, Mercedes one, all of Japan one. Every Jaguar
is a classic”
“It followed me home”
“The girls prefer it”
-
- Jan
From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 01:36:02 -0400
Subject: Re: XJC; XK120 alloy
John Elmgreen writes:
JE> XJC Values in Australia - reasonable roadgoing cars around $16-$24k
JE> Aus (= c $13-$19k US). I have the impression that in recent years
JE> the V12s have overtaken the 6s in price (used to be the opposite).
JE> Anyone else notice this?
I wouldn’t be suprised to see the V12s overtaking the 6s in price. In a 20
year-old car, practicality for everyday use isn’t the same consideration it
used to be while the capability of the car is more important. Personally,
I’ll suffer through with my 6!
-Steve A.
'67 E Type
'76 XJ6C (Not a 12, but I like Fritz the Cat anyway!)
'91 XJ40
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 22:56:47 -0700
Subject: Re: SIII Temp
Jan,
That’s all I ask, no jumping to conclusions without asking
yourself if the car is the same model. Sorry I blasted you on the
whole list but the problem is way too common here.
Jan Wikstroem wrote:
OK guys, let’s cool it (!). I admit freely that I’m utterly ignorant of S3.
When the originator mentioned bleeding the cooling system, I jumped to the
conclusion that S3 had the same arrangement as S2, which maybe I shouldn’t
have. I’ll restrain myself in future and only respond to S2 V12 and general
matters…Oh well, maybe the odd philosophical one, like “why a Jaguar”, to which my
answer varies with the audience, like
“If you have to ask, you’ll never know”
“It’s the only V12 I can afford”
“If an old bomb is all you can afford, let it be an exciting old bomb”
“BMW has produced two classics, Mercedes one, all of Japan one. Every Jaguar
is a classic”
“It followed me home”
“The girls prefer it”
- Jan
From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 08:27:17 -0700
Subject: Insurance (& bonnet leaper…sigh)
Gooooood morning fellow jag lovers!
Yeah, it is; I never get up this early unless there is a plane to catch, but
today I had to if I where to see my daughter off to her trip to Denmark…
Insurance;
In Norway and, I gather, also the rest of Scandinavia, a “semi”-comprehensive
insurance is mandatory. Your won’t get your license plates issued (even if it’s
a cash purchase at the dealers) until the vehicle approval authority gets a
confirmation from the insurance company that an agreement hs been drawn up.
The semi-comprehensive insurance covers everyone and everything you might hit
driving your car. To cover damage to your own vehicle you must extend the
insurance, which is voluntary.
Thus, unless you’re DUI or extremely wreckless, you don’t risk ending up
personally responsible for damage to the other party’s vehicle even if the
fault is yours, which is good because if some poor bugger hits your Jaguar, his
company will pay and you don’t have to chase a guy who can’t pay.
Tim!
On my restless crusade aginst Jaguar vandals I once again have to warn you of the horrible wrath that is in store for the ones who drill holes in their XJ bonnet. It is sacrilege and will be punished beyond your imagination (the walls around me tremble, the floors are shaking!) Why don’t you get a nice piece of wood to mount the leaping jaguar on, and place it on your mantel piece? Have a nice day! Baard ______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS / _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund / // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040 / /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #160 ******************************** Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4) id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Thu, 20 Jun 1996 18:31:03 +0200 (MET DST) Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 18:31:03 +0200 (MET DST) Message-Id: 199606201631.SAA03109@ekeberg.sn.no X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #161 Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Precedence: bulk X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 20 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 161 Re: XK Engine Thermostat Housing Bolts Re: XJ-40 Bonnet Lights Re: XJC; XK120 alloy boot (trunk) light XJ6 Mk II Wheel Spats - Coombs type Leaper… RE: Air Conditioning/Compressor Replacement Jag Vacuum Climate Routing Tappet block sealant - - V-12 Cruise Control XJ6 Series 3 - 1983 Aussie Prices Speedo right angle drive Re: Vacuum advance, '85 XJ6 Re: SIII Temp Re: Mk II Wheel Spats - Coombs type Re[2]: Lubrication/Anybody use a pre-luber? thermostat housing bolts Insurance a plea Re: MK1/2 Spare tire cover From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 22:59:05 -0700 Subject: Re: XK Engine Thermostat Housing Bolts Kroppe wrote:
Re: the conversation on removing the stuck bolts.
My '82 4.2l had the same problem. I, too, felt like I would twist the
bolts off. My solution was patience and WD40. I squirted the housing
bolts thoroughly every night for a week. Also, I soaked the gasket
between the t’stat housing and water rail with WD40, and scraped as much
gasket away with a razor blade. My thinking was twofold:
- Soaking the gasket will get more WD40 to the threads
- Scraping the gasket away will relieve the tension on the threads
Eventually they came off. If you don’t have time on your side, you may
have to resort to brute force. (which, in my opinion, is to be avoided.)
I have been the victim of my own brute force repair procedures in the
past.Which goes to show, that all you really need in this world is a can of
WD40, a roll of duct tape and a pair of channel locks and you can do
anything.
And lots of time on your hands to waste? You’re patience is near
miraculous. I prefer to cut the damn thing off and go on to the next
project.
B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Wed, 19 Jun 1996 23:01:18 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ-40 Bonnet Lights
Check the hood switch at the right front corner of the hood. The
contacts are probably getting corroded. Let me know what you find.
Evan Williams wrote:
Same here. The under-hood lights on my 1988 XJ-40 also seem to work or not
at will. Mostly, they do not seem to work! If you come up with a solution
please let us know.
Paul LaceyPut mine down for this one as well, checked the switch bulb’s and gave up
thinking I’ll do it one day. Lucky I have never needed them.Regards
Evan Williams
Account Manager Federal Region
Email: ewilliam@cisco.com
Phone: 61-6-2180505
Fax: 61-6-2574922Mobile: 61-0419236992
Page 61-24306381
Cisco Systems AustraliaPatience is a virtue afforded those with nothing better to do
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 20 Jun 96 19:45:42
Subject: Re: XJC; XK120 alloy
I can confirm that XJC V12s are becoming more valuable than sixes in the Great
South Land. I have a hypothesis that this is because ignorant *^%$#@ mechanics
stuff up the V12, which is then swapped for a lump. Result: V12s getting rare.
Another result: you see lots more V12 engines than sixes for sale. I picked up
one pre-HE with cracked block (from a crash) for $A700 inc the GM400 slushbox
and an HE that had had a fire on top for $A1,000 (which I know is being
replaced with a small-block Chevy). A “good” HE is beinmg advertised this week
for $2,500 and will undoubtedly sell for much less.
As to what is more practical for daily transport, I se no reason why the really
quite agricultural V12 shouldn’t be as practical as anything else, given
correct maintenance - apart from fuel consumption. I’ve used two (1978 XJL and
1977 XJC) for about three years, covering some 60,000 km with no more trouble
than you’d expect from any car of that age. The Lucas electrics - source of 90%
of the problems - are of course the same regardless of engine.
-
- Jan
From: “Arnold, Dr Dave” davearno@sandton.senchem.co.za
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 96 10:41:00 PDT
Subject: boot (trunk) light XJ6
Does anyone know where the above component is mounted on a Series II?
Doesn’t show up in the manual.
FWIW, on my 80 XJ6 ser II this light is controlled by a mercury switch in
the body of the light. If it doesn’t come on when the boot lid is opened
(sidelights must be on), and the bulb (globe) is OK, then it’s a good bet
that the mercury is coated with non-conducting rust. This is from
experience. It can be fixed by removing the light, CAREFULLY opening the
body of the switch (rotate and pull the cap from the body), tip up to
transfer the liquid mercury to a suitable small container (raid the
Tupperware cupboard in HER territory), add citric acid (I used a squeeze
of lemon juice (give HER the rest of the lemon to suck). When the rust
has dissolved, reverse the above, but make sure the mercury is dry first.
Don’t heat the mercury, use a Kleenex.
CAUTION: mercury vaporises at room temperature, and over a time can be
toxic (Minimata disease). Don’t breath in the (invisible) vapours, and
avoid spills. Spilt mercury can be “neutralised” with sulphur. If you are
a tad scared off by this warning, give the job to HER.
Dave
1980 XJ6 ser II
“Toys-R-Ours”
From: mslade mslade@fidler.co.uk
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 96 10:01:10 BST
Subject: Mk II Wheel Spats - Coombs type
As a follow on from recent mailings concerning ‘Coombs’ type spats
for a MkII, the only one I have seen had the spats moulded into the
bodywork, making it an irreversible change. Does anyone know of
narrower spats that fit in the same way as the standard ones, so
that you could change back to standard spats in the future if need
be.
This may be what you were referring to, John (McDonagh), but does
anyone know where I can get hold of some in the UK, and at what
cost?~
Mark ('64 MkII)
From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 13:45:25 -0700
Subject: Leaper…
Hi all,
Awfully sorry, chaps. Had I read yesterdays second digest, I would have known
that the case had already been debated seriousely (apart from Mike’s remark.
Would that be the driver’s or the passenger’s eye browes, Mike?)
To Tony who wrote:
but what shall I do with the leaper already on my XJ40 daimler?
(there when I bought it)
I’d say that removing the leaper from the bonnet, welding the holes and
respray the bonnet would be the ultimate thing to do! That’d be awsome!! I think
that’s probably what I myself would do! Yeah, for sure.
Is that something to think about, or what?
Cheers
Baard
______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no
From: Graham Watson grahamw@microsoft.com
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 05:11:55 -0700
Subject: RE: Air Conditioning/Compressor Replacement
Check the control box and the evaporator thermostat. If either of these
fail it can cause the clutch to lock on or off, depending on fault. Also
find the wire supplying current to the clutch and put a meter (or
lightbulb !) on it to see if the clutch is being switched. You may find
it’s nothing to do with the compressor, but a problem further back in
the system.
This is the exact (opposite) of the problem I’ve just had - I was
getting a “growl” out of the compressor after it had been running for
about 15 minutes - almost attractive on a Jag - arent they supposed to
“growl” ? Anyway, it turned out that on mine the clutch wasn’t
DISengaging, thus freezing the whole system solid. I replaced my
compressor, only to find it wasn’t the faulty part.
If anyone wants a compressor for a '92 XJ40 …
From: Jon Jackson[SMTP:jon1@flash.net]
Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 1996 4:41 AM
To: Jag Lovers
Subject: Re: Air Conditioning/Compressor Replacementgvb wrote:
My air conditioning system just quit and it appears that the clutch on the
compressor is not operating. I have a 1985 XJ6. I have not checked the
system out yet but I suspect the meltable fuse has gone due to low freon
level. If this is the case I will replace the whole compressor unit since
it is 11 years old. In Kirby Palm’s help book he mentioned that the
GM unit
referred to as an A-6 could be substituted for the original compressor. I
talked to an auto parts store and they told me that there are a few
different models. Does anyone know the model number of this unit that
would
require the fewest number of modifications?
Also, Kirby mentions a Ford substitute for the drier unit. Anyone know
the model number on this?Thanks
George Buonanno
1985 XJ6
George,I replaced my compressor on my 87 XJ-S with a rebuilt on from autozone.
At a cost of $65.00 us. This was asking for the compressor made for my
car.
Jon
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 08:30:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Jag Vacuum Climate Routing
The vacuum lines on my 82 XJ-S from the engine to (and including) the
selector switch and servo seem to have been fiddled with, presumably by
the PO. Non-stock looking vacuum hose and a bunch of adapters and
connectors – and one factory hard black plastic vacuum line that doesn’t
connect to anything – are the tip-offs. Since I will soon (finally!)
have the time to complete the work on my climate control system,
I want to make sure I have all the information I need to quickly
complete the job.
My manuals don’t show the stock vacuum line routing for the climate
control. Everything ‘downstream’ of the switch and servo seems untouched
and original (except for that one black line). Could you provide me with a
description of the vacuum line routing to and from the switch and servo?
I’d appreciate any guidance.
Thanks very much.
Regards,
John
From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 08:57:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Tappet block sealant - - V-12
What is the recommended sealant for V-12 tappet block installation.
Thomas E. Alberts
1987 XJ-S
From: chatmans@ext.missouri.edu
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 96 09:36:37 cdt
Subject: Cruise Control XJ6 Series 3 - 1983
I've just reviewed Tom Graham's excellent description of the cruise
control system and trouble shooting guide. The cruise did not work on
my recently purchased XJ6 but armed with the trouble shooting guide I
attacked the situation last night. The good news was that I quickly
found the problem -- or at least a problem. The bad news was that it
wasn't addressed in the guide. My problem is that the bellows is
detached from the wing. (1) That is the correct location isn't it?
By the look of it, the three small pedestal-like pieces supporting the
bellows were simply glued to the wing. (2) Anyone know what adhesive
should be used there? I assume that it is an uncommon problem and that
little force should be needed to hold the bellows in place. (3) Is
that true?
For those interested, my guess regarding the cause of the
problem is that the cable frayed inside the shield (that is true)
preventing the cable from pulling the gas pedal. The force then ripped
the bellows off the wing because something had to give. Should we
applaud Jaguar engineers for designing the system to shear-off before
destroying the bellows? 8^) Thanks in advance. Steve Chatman,
Columbia, Missouri, USA.
From: Robert_Abascal@ccmail.orl.mmc.com
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 08:58 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Aussie Prices
This is to my Aussie (I hope this is not a derogatory term) friends.
Some of the recent postings have included prices for cars in
Australia. I live in the US and they seem incredibly high! Is there
a reason for this? If not, I'll be on the next boat over there with a
hull full of Jaguars. Just wondering.
Robert Abascal - '63 XKE OTS, '66 XKE Coupe
From: Robert_Abascal@ccmail.orl.mmc.com
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 09:01 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Speedo right angle drive
I have 2 busted speedo right angle drives. I have a specific question
about rebuilding these things. How is the squared cable attached to
the gear? I hope one of you has done this before. It such a simple
device but oh so expensive to have repaired by someone else.
Thanks in advance for any money saving advice.
Robert Abascal
From: BSherw@aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 11:13:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Vacuum advance, '85 XJ6
Can anyone tell me what the is the function of the small unit in the line to
the vacuum advance of my '85 XJ6 4.2? It is located under the intake
manifold, and has piping to the vac advance unit, direct manifold vacuum, and
to the throttle body. I’m wondering if there would be an advantage to
bypassing this piece and connecting the vac advance directly to the manifold.
Thanks,
Brian Sherwood
'85 XJ6
'88 Chevy truck, with GM-spec “Appaloosa” hood (black paint falling off)
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 11:19:54 -0400
Subject: Re: SIII Temp
On Jun 20, 3:49pm, Jan Wikstroem wrote:
Subject: Re: SIII Temp
"BMW has produced two classics, Mercedes one, all of Japan one.
- Jan
OK, what are they???
Mark
The BMWs are the Isetta 300 and 600, right?
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 08:34:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Mk II Wheel Spats - Coombs type
You wrote:
As a follow on from recent mailings concerning ‘Coombs’ type spats
for a MkII, the only one I have seen had the spats moulded into the
bodywork, making it an irreversible change. Does anyone know of
narrower spats that fit in the same way as the standard ones, so
that you could change back to standard spats in the future if need
be.This may be what you were referring to, John (McDonagh), but does
anyone know where I can get hold of some in the UK, and at what
cost?~
Yes, Martin Robey … see Jaguar World etc… maybe 50 quid…
tony
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 11:19:42 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: Lubrication/Anybody use a pre-luber?
Subject: RE: Lubrication/Anybody use a pre-luber?
Author: ifinlay@vossnet.co.uk (Ian Finlay) at INTERNET
Date: 06/17/96 04:41 PM
I seem to recall a recommendation in an old mag to make a tool using
and old distributor. Just use the shaft, and have the end machined to fit
in an
electric drill.
YMMV!
Ian
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
You recall correctly. The bad news is that the only people on this
list who can use that info are "lumpers."
Your basic American pushrod V-8 uses a single gear off the camshaft to
drive both the oil pump and the distributor. Generally the gear is
pinned to a shaft that goes down to drive the pump and has a slot on
top to mate with the end of the distributor. Take out the distributor
and gear, insert a long shaft with the appropriate hex end into the
pump and spin the shaft with your drill. Instant oil pressure. Works
on every Ford, Chevy and Mopar V-8 I've ever tried.
None of which help our Jags much. Overhead cam engines typically have
a totally different setup.
As for the original question. You pre-lube the engine when you
assemble it. There are a number of assembly lube products on the
market whose purpose is to provide lubrication to a newly assembled
engine until the oil pressure builds up. Unless you are dumb enough
to install an empty oil filter, that won't be long. Hopefully, one of
the last things done before starting the new engine is to fill the
sump AND OIL FILTER. Then the pump doesn't waste the first 20 or 30
seconds filling it for you while your bearings sit around waiting for
oil pressure to arrive. I used to use a 50-50 mix of oil and STP when
assembling engines. Dip all the internal parts when assembling. For
our drag racing engines, which had tremendous cylinder pressures and
very loose clearances, we used a homemade pre-luber. It was just an
old air tank. Remove the valve, put in a couple of quarts of oil,
replace the valve and add about 100psi of air. Attach it to a fitting
on the block, turn it upside down and let the air blow oil into the
galleys. Once Accu-sumps came along we just started buying them for
the racers.
MikeC
From: BSherw@aol.com
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 11:40:25 -0400
Subject: thermostat housing bolts
Larry Karpman wrote:
… I cannot, nor can two local shops, remove two of the three <
thermostat housing bolts. They feel as though they will twist off. >
I have used this method in similar situations, with >some< success:
Drill a small (1/16 in.) hole in the housing where the ends of the threads
would be.
Squirt in penetrating oil, and wait patiently.
Work bolts back and forth.
If “Murphy’s Law” is in effect in your situation, you probably can’t access
the bolts
you need to, and will have to twist the bolts off anyway, and use an
Easy-out.
Good luck!
Brian Sherwood, '85 XJ6
From: “Himes,John W.” jwh@dw.att.com
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 96 09:43:00 PDT
Subject: Insurance
It is sounding like many parts of the world other then the USA have their
acts together when it comes to mandatory insurance coverage and enforcement.
Here in Colorado you are required to have at least liability insurance. If
you hit something or someone your insurance will pay up to your covered
maximums, but you do not have to have your car covered. If you wreck or
destroy your car, you get to buy a new one. Of course you can also get
comprehensive to cover your vehicle(s) also. When you buy a car, you must
show you have insurance coverage when you register the vehicle with the
state. You can buy insurance for the day, week, month… After that when
you pay your yearly registration fee, you simply sign stating that you have
insurance and if you do not have coverage you could be fined bla bla bla…
The lady that hit the side of my jag last year did not have insurance for
several years. I ended up taking her to court to get her to pay my
insurance deductible and it took her about a 9 months to pay the $1000. She
was a real (!). The courts & police do not really care unless there is a
serious accident or death, then the punishment is normally a slap on the
wrist and a scolding from the judge. Again the victims have less rights
then the criminals or persons at fault. You gotta love it!
John Himes
88 XJ-S 94K Miles
From: Gregory Andrachuk MGB@UVVM.UVic.CA
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 96 08:59:36 PDT
Subject: a plea
Before the Neal/Cantrell thing goes too far, can we PLEASE all agree to
offer information based on our knowledge of SPECIFIC models, and to
state that we are referring to SPECIFIC models. Much information will
refer to all Series I, II, and III xj models, for example, but much will
not. It is essential that we state the SPECIFIC model and year, preferably
in both QUESTIONS and RESPONSES. One more thing. Most of us get too much mail.
Is it really necessary for us all to read smart-alec answers, or to read
answers that are specific to ONE PERSON and situation (e.g. “Jack: Ill
send you the info tomorrow” )??? This is a waste of time and space.
The list should be used for questions and information of a GENERAL
INTEREST.
Gregory Andrachuk
From: ifinlay@vossnet.co.uk (Ian Finlay)
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 17:30:19 +0100
Subject: Re: MK1/2 Spare tire cover
At the risk of being too simplistic - deflate the tyre! Then go get a small
tyre inflater that runs off 12V (usually the cigar lighter, but you can
always
put crocodile clips on the end). If you’re near a Euro-scrapyard, look in
any Porsche 944 - they come with a really nice inflation kit for space
saver spares.
Ian
On Jun 18, 1996 10:36:03, ‘Ryan Border rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com’ wrote:
I’ve got a 205 65 R14 tire on my spare wheel; which is preventing the
metal spare wheel cover from seating properly; it just sits up on the
tire. Anyone else have (solved) this problem? I’m imagining some
kind of shim that would sit in the lip that the cover usually goes
on, and provides a raised lip for the wheel cover to actually
sit on. I can’t be the first person to face this dilemna. Any other
ideas (besides using a down-sized spare)?Ryan.
Ian Finlay
work:ian.finlay@stream.com
DOD# 960
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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 21 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 162
Re: hay-fevererish Mk 2 owner…
Re[2]: Incorrect/inaccurate/useless answers (was: SIII Temp)
Re: Wood Trim matching (87 xj6III)
RE: External Door Handles on 1990 XJ40
Re: thermostate bolts
Labour Tax shock
Re: Vacuum advance, '85 XJ6
turning radius XJ S3 “Long” versus S2 coupe "short
Re: Quick Story - Enough to make you cry
Re: Wood Trim matching -SIII
(fwd) E-type jag required for film shoot
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #161
XJ40 - bonnet lights, door handles
XJ40 Idle too high intermittantly
External Door Handles on 1990 XJ40
Re: Aussie Prices
'86 XJ6 SIII (US) climate control problem
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #155
From: ifinlay@vossnet.co.uk (Ian Finlay)
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 17:30:28 +0100
Subject: Re: hay-fevererish Mk 2 owner…
On Jun 19, 1996 16:36:34, ‘“Richard King” kingr@sabc.co.za’ wrote:
Air con seems to help, but I’m not sure why. Maybe the drying mechanism, as
well
as the cooling, helps to reduce the pollen level. It certainly reduces the
inflammation in those nasal passages! There are drugs that do this too of
course,
but I’d rather avoid that!
Ian
>snip .... > >So to the questions: > >1) Does anyone in the UK fit air con at a reasonable cost? My >hay fever is killing me! > >...snip > >Does the aircon make any difference???? > >(The only A/C that helps my hay-fever is the one in our *Clean Room* >here at work....) > >I see in a South African car >magazine (called... Car Magazine!) that someone local is making an >evaporative cooler. Looks like a small round tank that goes in the >boot (trunk) and a fan blows air over a wet surface and then through >vents into the car interior. Apart from the cooling effect (if >any...!) I wonder if there wouldn't be some sort of cleaning effect - >ie pollen and other small particles removed from the air....? > >I might even try to make one some day - I would be inclined, perhaps, >to either include a negative ion generator in the thing - or go the >whole hog and try to make a proper electrostatic filter. On the >other hand - there are so many of us poor allergic fellows around, >you'd think, if it did any good, that someone would have done it and >made a fortune already..... > >ahhhh.... cheers!..... tisshhoooo!! > >Richard King >Johannesburg >+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ >'85 Alfa 33 x 2 >'75 Peugeot 404 > >http://www.sabc.co.za/units/henley/optical/pvt/cars.htm > >++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ > - -- - ------------------------------------------ Ian Finlay work:ian.finlay@stream.com DOD# 960From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 12:38:20 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: Incorrect/inaccurate/useless answers (was: SIII Temp)
I think I have to side with Mike Neal here…
His reply was a bit terse, but the high frequency of inappropriate and
incorrect replies to technical questions is extremely irritating.
Furthermore, it’s going to cause someone some serious damage sooner or
later. The number of wrong answers must approach 50% on some weeks. If it
isn’t a reply from a Series III XJ-6 owner to a question from a Series 3
E-Type, then it’s a reply based on knowledge about US cars to a question
from an Australian.
Please, all of us, do a few simple things:
-
When asking technical questions, specify model and year (e.g. '85 XJ-6
SIII) If your country isn’t obvious from your address or signature, you
might mention that as well. Year and model should always be in the subject
header. -
When replying, try to remember:
a. Different years may be dramatically different. It is virtually
guaranteed they will be somewhat different.
b. The cars vary quite a bit from market to market. Much of the
discussion on this list involves engine accessories, emissions controls and
electrical items. The very things that change the most. Different markets
also have different standard and optional features. Even the names
(Sovereign and VDP) are applied to different trim levels.
c. Please, please identify opinions and assumptions as what they are.
Don’t present it as a fact unless you are positive.
MikeC
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: SIII Temp
Author: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu at INTERNET
Date: 06/19/96 01:10 PM
No, it is not necessary to bleed the radiator. I’ve probably done over 100
rad iator jobs on the S3 XJ6
and have had no problems!!! There is no bleed valve on a S3 XJ6, get your
dam n models straight.
How many times do I have to go off on this! Know the difference between
models
if you are going to “butt in”.
Excuse me ? I have seen flames around here but I think that this
kind of reply is out of order. We all appreciate and highly
value your expertise, but this kind of response would be, in my humble
opinion, better on a one to one basis. You ARE right, you don’t have
to bleed the series III. However, if somebody’s lack of knowledge or
incorrect answer resulting from an honest mistake makes somebody that
angry, I would prefer not to hear it. Politeness does make a difference.
I have found Jan to be always very helpful and personable. Not all
of us are expert in the field of Jaguars, engineering or whatever,
and some allowance needs to be made for the fact that this is an environment
wher e
most of us come to BECAUSE we don’t know all we need or want to about
the cars.
Kind regards,
Jim Cantrell
76 XJ12C
76 XJ6C
66 Alpine 2.8L
From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 13:06:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Wood Trim matching (87 xj6III)
- –IMA.Boundary.150092538
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Description: cc:Mail note part
The dealer had to replace my console trim ('88 XJ-S) when the car was about
one month old. Apparently the service manager knew the drill, since they
ordered six pieces and let me pick the one I thought matched the best. I
was surprised at the significant variations in color, darkness and basic
type of graining. My wood is a medium dark reddish brown American Black
Walnut. The dealer said mine was all burl. In appearance it has virtually
100% “swirls” as opposed to “grain”. In retrospect, I don’t know why I was
surprised. I collect antique muskets, which all have stocks made from the
same wood. Color and grain vary considerably. I guess that’s why we like
wood instead of wood grained plastic. In addition, I’ve seen other year
XJ-S’s with very light wood. I’ve been told they are elm. I don’t know
what wood you have, or if different year/model XJ-6s have different types
of wood like the XJ-S obviously did.
Over the years my wood has lightened somewhat, I assume due to sun (it’s a
convertible) although it is garaged at home and I use a cover when I park
it for anything longer than a quick trip into a store. The lightening is
readily apparent when I remove something that overlaps the wood, especially
on the console. Then you can see a darker outline where the wood didn’t
fade where it was covered.
You could probably get a decent match if you work with a supplier that has
a good stock. I’d send a color photo of the part to show grain/burl. Never
heard of Medira.
MikeC
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Wood Trim matching
Author: david_gruber@fmc.com (DAVID GRUBER) at INTERNET
Date: 06/19/96 06:52 PM
After attempting (unsuccessfully) to refurbish the wood trim piece surrounding
the gearshift on my 87 xj6III, I decided to bite the bullet and replace the
piece with a new one from a dealer.
Of course, when it arrived, it looked NOTHING like the original wood.
Questions:
-
How does the wood trim change with age? Does it lighten or change tint as
the varnish ages? -
Is replacing a single piece a waste of time? I know that Vicarage has a full
dash kit for about $800. -
I’ve heard of a place called Medira (sp?) Concepts that can refinish
individual pieces to match original pieces. Has anyone used them? -
Does anyone have any insight into the burled vs. figured walnut confusion?
Many thanks,
Dave
- –IMA.Boundary.150092538–
From: “K.D.Fox” kfox@dial.pipex.com
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 09:44:43 +0100
Subject: RE: External Door Handles on 1990 XJ40
Frequently, an external door handle on my '90 XJ40 is very difficult to
operate, making it necessary to push in on the door while lifting the
handle
or risking breaking something. I have been told that these door handles
are
like this and breakages are not uncommon. Has anyone else had and
preferably fixed this problem or can suggest how it might be fixed?? Alan.
Hi All,
I had this problem too!
The fix was to remove the handle, clean off any corrosion and grease it,
refit, then adjust the connecting rod so that there is a small amount of
slack in the system.
That cured mine which had the linkage too tight after a visit to the
bodyshop.
Hope this helps
Kevin Fox
From: Ed Scripps 73200.2362@compuserve.com
Date: 20 Jun 96 13:57:26 EDT
Subject: Re: thermostate bolts
Brian Sherwood wrote:
If “Murphy’s Law” is in effect in your situation, you probably can’t >access
the bolts you need to, and will have to twist the bolts off anyway, >and use an
Easy-out.
Good luck!
I have always had very little success in using easy outs after twisting off
bolts. This might have more to do with me than the easy outs.
It seems if the bolt is stuck enough that it won’t come out normally an easy
isn’t going to help much. In fact I usually end up breaking an easy out off in
the whole making thing worse!
The last time this happened was with the exhaust studs in the head in which a
broke off two studs. I used an easy out on one and broke it off. I took my
losses and let a pro take over and my maching shop was able to get the broken
mess out but the expierence has really scared me off from using easy outs.
Can any one offer advice for these situations?
- -Ed-
Brian Sherwood wrote:
If “Murphy’s Law” is in effect in your situation, you probably can’t >access
the bolts you need to, and will have to twist the bolts off anyway, >and use an
Easy-out.
Good luck!
Brian Sherwood, '85 XJ6
From: Alan Akeister 100705.3012@compuserve.com
Date: 20 Jun 96 14:26:07 EDT
Subject: Labour Tax shock
For all you U.K. members of the Jag Lovers list:-
In the paper today, it was announced that the Labour Party are to hit “owners of
big-engined gas guzzlers” with higher taxes if they win the next general
election. Clair short said that “we have to learn to use the car differently”
Also motorists will be charged by the amount of journeys that they do.
Any one want to buy a 1.0 Litre engine for their Jag?
Alan A.
P.S. passed three XK8’s going the other way today, What a beutiful car!! the
convertable especially!!
From: nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu (Nikolai Chitaev)
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 13:47:15 -0600
Subject: Re: Vacuum advance, '85 XJ6
Can anyone tell me what the is the function of the small unit in the line to
the vacuum advance of my '85 XJ6 4.2? It is located under the intake
manifold, and has piping to the vac advance unit, direct manifold vacuum, and
to the throttle body. I’m wondering if there would be an advantage to
bypassing this piece and connecting the vac advance directly to the manifold.
Thanks,
Brian Sherwood
Does it has something to do with cruise control?
Nikolai A. Chitaev, PhD.
<<87`XJ6 4.2L, EFI, BRG>>
{nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu}
{http://128.252.119.253}
St.Louis, Missouri, USA
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 20 Jun 96 15:26:30 EDT
Subject: turning radius XJ S3 “Long” versus S2 coupe "short
Hi everybody,
I have noticed that my xj12 S3 1984 Sov. HE has a significantly greater turning
radius than my Xj6
coupe. The 12 is a “long” wheelbase and the coiupe is a short wheelvase (4
inches shorter).
The difference in wheelbase would make the turnind raduis greater on the long
wheelbase if everything else was the same, however the difference I experience
seems that maybe the steering rack is also diffrent. Can anybody confirm ? and
where is the difference ?. The long wheelbase is slightly difficult to manoeuvre
in a tight undergraound garage. Is there any adjustments I can “fiddle”.
Apart from this the S3 steering has more weight (less powerful).
Regards Jeffrey Gram
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 20 Jun 96 15:26:32 EDT
Subject: Re: Quick Story - Enough to make you cry
Bad bad story,
I guess the morale is some people are idiots…
…and that the legislation leave lots to be desired…
You cant even get a car on the road in some sensible European countries without
insurance
and what could have been much worse - it could have been a human wrapped around
the bumper -
that would make the cost of a new jag an insignificant amount.
I’m afraid I have no sympathy for such examples of ignorance.
Regards Jeffrey Gram
From: “Peter Hamel (h)” pete-hamel@dial.pipex.com
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 19:36:42 +0000
Subject: Re: Wood Trim matching -SIII
Dave,
It might not be any use to you as I guess you’re in the US, but here in
the UK a company called Autostyle can supply you with all the wood pieces
you need. I think your wood might be elm rather than walnut, the elm
being much lighter, it has a much straighter grain than the walnut. When
I called them about the same piece as you required they said I could send
in a small piece of the wood and they would try to match it. The piece
you need is listed at 55 pounds ($80ish).
Also I think the wood gets much lightened in time by sunlight.
Autostyle are on +44 (0)1634 840530.
Good luck
Pete Hamel
DAVID GRUBER wrote:
After attempting (unsuccessfully) to refurbish the wood trim piece surrounding
the gearshift on my 87 xj6III, I decided to bite the bullet and replace the
piece with a new one from a dealer.I ordered the replacement from Thoroughbred Motorcars and was given the choice
of either burled or figured walnut. The parts salesman couldn’t really explain
the difference, except that the burled was dark and the figured lighter. He
also checked with the parts manager who said that burled was standard and the
figured rarer (perhaps optional?). I checked the factory invoice for the car
and it only said “Walnut” - there were no options on the car. I went with the
walnut burl.Of course, when it arrived, it looked NOTHING like the original wood. Not only
was it very dark, but it had quite a bit of grain in the design whereas my
dashboard pieces show heavy burl with no grain evident. My dash has an orangish
red tint to it.Thoroughbred was kind enough to accept the item in return for the other
(lighter) piece. When that arrived, I was disappointed to find that it was
still significantly darker, browner, and grainier than my original wood and had
very little burl.Questions:
How does the wood trim change with age? Does it lighten or change tint as
the varnish ages?Is replacing a single piece a waste of time? I know that Vicarage has a full
dash kit for about $800.I’ve heard of a place called Medira (sp?) Concepts that can refinish
individual pieces to match original pieces. Has anyone used them?Does anyone have any insight into the burled vs. figured walnut confusion?
Many thanks,
Dave
From: “Thos. Carney” carney@vcn.bc.ca
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 14:11:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: (fwd) E-type jag required for film shoot
Path: freenet.vancouver.bc.ca!unixg.ubc.ca!van-bc!van.istar!ott.istar!istar.net!winternet.com!nntp.primenet.com!news.texas.net!news.kei.com!newsfeed.internetmci.com!qns3.qns.net!news.ecn.uoknor.edu!munnari.OZ.AU!news.mel.connect.com.au!news.mira.net.au!news.internex.net.au!connexus.apana.org.au!not-for-mail
From: jagger@connexus.apana.org.au (Brian Lang)
Newsgroups: rec.autos.antique
Subject: E-type jag required for film shoot
Date: 20 Jun 1996 14:26:42 GMT
Organization: connexus.apana.org.au
Lines: 17
Message-ID: 4qbn32$6e2@preeda.internex.net.au
NNTP-Posting-Host: connexus.apana.org.au
X-Newsreader: TIN [UNIX 1.3 950621BETA PL0]
Wanted to hire e-type jag, early to mid '60s, onm sat 22nd june, probably
rare,
must be silver or gunmetal grey, for film shoot in Melbourne, Australia
on Sat 22nd of June. Would be Interested in Hearing from any one in
Australia who has, or knows of a Jag like this. Has to be hardtop. Please
call Laurie Faen , Artist Services. 03 9 645 3911, even after this date,
or leave message via e-mail.
Thanx-- (we had one organised to match one in London, which we filmed
over there, but haver lost it due to family problems)
__
||____ ____ ____ ___________
| __ \ / \ / _/ __ _ __
| |/ __ _/ // > // > /| | /
/_| ( /_ /_ / ___ >|
_| ////___/ /
<=======================================>
From: Don Tracey dont@echuca.net.au
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 19:42:50 +1100
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #161
From: Robert_Abascal@ccmail.orl.mmc.com
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 08:58 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Aussie PricesThis is to my Aussie (I hope this is not a derogatory term) friends. Some of the recent postings have included prices for cars in Australia. I live in the US and they seem incredibly high! Is there a reason for this? If not, I'll be on the next boat over there with a hull full of Jaguars. Just wondering. Robert Abascal - '63 XKE OTS, '66 XKE CoupeRobert, The term Aussie is certainly not derogatary. Just got the latest
copy of Australian Jaguar ,which lists new Jag prices
$A1=$US.79c
XJ6 3.2 $A124,000 ($US979560)
XJR $A175,500 ($US138,OOO)
PETROL where I live about A.79c(us.62)litre approx $US 2.26 ,but
reading the Norwegian prices made me feel good.It’s not that easy to
bring newer type cars in to Australia ,all sorts of obstacles in the
way ,complying with local design rules ,duties and taxes.Think that we
look after our cars a bit better than you Americans, now I can see why.
Don Tracey
From: Peter Rebbechi <"REBBECHI PETER"@A1.MEOC02.SNO.mts.dec.com>
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 21:52:00 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: XJ40 - bonnet lights, door handles
ajbeale@squirrel.com.au (A.J. Beale) wrote
Frequently, an external door handle on my '90 XJ40 is very difficult to
operate, making it necessary to push in on the door while lifting the handle
or risking breaking something. I have been told that these door handles are
like this and breakages are not uncommon. Has anyone else had and
preferably fixed this problem or can suggest how it might be fixed?? Alan.
I had this problem, and discussion says that it is common indeed. Jaguar
supposedly redesigned the handle to make it stronger. The common cause of
failure seems to be door mechanisms that are never lubed. Replacement handles
come in at around $400 (AUST) each. My mechanic has a retired gentleman (Heath
Robinson type of guy) who has fabricated reinforcing brackets for the existing
handle, as long as it is cracked, not broken. I had these brackets added to
the other doors before they went as well. BTW, ever tried to get in the
drivers seat of an XJ40 by climbing in the passenger side? Not easy!.
Bonnet lights.- second the motion ! check the switch at the front frame.
Easily identifiable, with an accordion shaped boot on it. Remove the switch,
spary a little WD40 or similar, refit, it works.
From: “K.D.Fox” kfox@dial.pipex.com
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 1996 00:23:57 +0100
Subject: XJ40 Idle too high intermittantly
Please help me with a very infuriating problem with my 88 3.6 Sovereign.
The idle is sometimes too high, 1100rpm when stopping, dropping slowly to
750ish when stopped, immediately 1100 when the accelerator is touched.
I have tried:
New throttle pot,
had a full engine set up done by a jag specialist, (slight improvement)
Tightening up the throttle stop spring,
The problem can happen at any time, recently I started from cold, drove 2
miles, stopped and the problem is there, (engine shows normal temperature.)
Restarted 10 minutes later and all is OK. Other times it has continued to
happen even after stopping.
Surely somebody else has had this problem, all help gratefully appreciated.
Regards
Kevin Fox
From: ajbeale@squirrel.com.au (A.J. Beale)
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 1996 09:57:16 -0700
Subject: External Door Handles on 1990 XJ40
Thanks to all who responded. If I can’t make some improvements from the
information received, I will give up cars - well, maybe. Alan.
From: ewilliam@cisco.com (Evan Williams)
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 1996 09:58:57 +1000
Subject: Re: Aussie Prices
This is to my Aussie (I hope this is not a derogatory term) friends. Some of the recent postings have included prices for cars in Australia. I live in the US and they seem incredibly high! Is there a reason for this? If not, I'll be on the next boat over there with a hull full of Jaguars. Just wondering.
It’s called import duty or protecting local industry thus ensuring the
continuation of average product for the mass market and sales tax. Once
upon a time one could buy a car overseas keep it fo 12 months and then
bring it back to Oz, this would reduce the duty payable. I think they found
that alot of Australians went overseas and happened to have friends who
would garage the car for 12 months and send it on. Also we now have
individual country compliance regulations so Jag’s are manufactured for
Australia to meet our legal requirements.
It is cruel to read the prices paid in other countries especially when they
seem to be quibbling over the price but I guess that is the market they
live in
Regards
Evan Williams
Account Manager Federal Region
Email: ewilliam@cisco.com
Phone: 61-6-2180505
Fax: 61-6-2574922
Mobile: 61-0419236992
Page 61-24306381
Cisco Systems Australia
Patience is a virtue afforded
those with nothing better to do
From: Peter Morris pmorris@tfb.com
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 18:27:51 -8
Subject: '86 XJ6 SIII (US) climate control problem
My climate control just started acting up. Time was when I would
fire up the engine I would almost immediately be blasted with frigid
air (any time of the day or night). Shortly, I’d hear the wheels
truning in there and the frigid blast would moderate to a light,
perhaps warmer breeze (assumes the temp setting was on 75 degrees).
Then, as interior temp changed or I varied the temp setting, I’d again
hear the wheels turning and get more or less fan speed and temp
change.
NOW, climb in, fire her up and…the fan, if it comes on at all, comes
on low. No wheels turning. If I play with the temp control and move
clockwise to raise the temp, that works. If I try to lower the temp
(or just get the A/C just to kick in) I get…clickity click click
clickity etc… No change in fan speed. I do get a temp change but the
fan does not.
So, what’s happening here?
Regards,
Peter Morris
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 20:41:38 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #155
On Tue, 18 Jun 1996 TPatton111@aol.com wrote:
I just bought a leaping cat (small) hood ornament for my 1982 XJ6. Can
someone tell me exactly how far back to drill the holes?
Measuring straight up and back from the tip of your nose, 5 inches is
just about right for the first hole. That’s about 1 inch behind the
average hair line. The other hole can be located from the first one.
Seriously, there is no exactly right measurement for this because Jaguar
did NOT install such mascots.
Larry Lee
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #162
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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 21 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 163
Aussie Prices
Re: Luggage compartment light switch
Bargain XJS
Tires for 89 XJ40
new member, 85 XJS
Seized Engine? ;(
RE: Seized Engine? ;(
Re: hay-fevererish Mk 2 owner…
Re: Insurance
Re: new member, 85 XJS
XJ12_engine
Lighten up
XJ6 FUEL FILL DRAIN
Japan Classic?
S2 E-Type, Getrag 5 speed conv.
From: sfisher@sola.com.au (Scott Fisher)
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 96 21:06 CST
Subject: Aussie Prices
This is to my Aussie (I hope this is not a derogatory term) friends.
Some of the recent postings have included prices for cars in
Australia. I live in the US and they seem incredibly high! Is there
a reason for this? If not, I'll be on the next boat over there with a
hull full of Jaguars. Just wondering.
Robert Abascal - '63 XKE OTS, '66 XKE Coupe
Aussie is not considered derogatory.
There are several reasons for the price differential
- Australian Dollars are not worth the same as US dollars, the exchange
rate is at about $1 US = $1.28 Aus. So divite any Australian $ price
you see by 1.28. So $18,000 Aus = $14,000 US.
Although Australian dollars are just as hard to earn as US ones
-
Import duty. We have a protected car industry to the tune of 30-50+%
import tax on cars. i.e car costs $50,000 US costs $75000 us after
the tax man has got to it. This keeps the import prices up and thus
the new and second hand market up. The US has little or no import tarrifs
(as far as I am aware). We also have sales tax and tax tax -
We have a population of approx 18 million vs 260? for the US. Economies
of scale. -
We have a climate (cool-dry to hot-dry) in most of the country so the
condition of old cars is very good. Rust is rare, the roads are lightly
populated and thus cars tend to survive (battle scars) better than other
places I have seen.
The main reason tho is taxation. You may be surprised to learn that overall
the USA has the cheapest consumer products on the plannet, so just about
every consumer product in every other country should look expensive to you.
If you brought US Jaguars to Australia you would have a difficult time
selling them since 1) You would have to pay import duty and or meet a
different safety standard 2) We drive on the right hand side of the car
and left hand side of the road…as Jaguars were ‘meant’ to be driven
After all, what sane person would run the hot exhaust system under the
drivers feet and put the brake system near all that heat…
Regards Scott.
Scott Fisher [sfisher@sola.com.au] PH: +61 08 329-28341.
_--_|\ N
SOLA / \ W + E
International Holdings Research Center _.–_/ S
Adelaide, South Australia. v
Joy ia a Jaguar XJ6 with a flat battery, a blown oil seal and an
unsympathetic wife, 9km outside of a small remote town, 3:15am on
a cold wet winters morning.
SOLA?- Opthalmic Lens Manufacturer, unless all those transparent disks
we make are part of some secret conspiracy to make transparent disks!
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 20:52:17 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Luggage compartment light switch
On Thu, 20 Jun 1996 pbrown@sbnsw.com.au wrote:
Three foolish questions:
Does anyone know where the above component is mounted on a Series II? Doesn’t
show up in the manual.
The switch is an integral part of the light bulb socket, and it is a
total piece of crap–a little ball rolling around inside that is supposed
to make contact with two internally protruding wires when the boot lid is
open. You can shake it. You can spray it full of electrical contact
cleaner. You can try to hold your mouth just right. None of these will
cause the thing to work more than a few times. If you want reliable
light in the boot, you will have to replace it with a better unit. The
one on my 1988 Mercury Grand Marquis worked reliably…so I rationalized
something about Ford ownership of Jaguar and did the deed. Let there be
light.
I have to pass on your other questions.
Larry Lee
From: GFoster737@gnn.com (Gerald Foster)
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 23:51:46
Subject: Bargain XJS
For the record, I bought the Blue XJS I wrote about last week. I offered
the PO $2,000.00 and my offer was accepted. The local mechanic who examined
it for the PO said the noisy engine sounded like a sure death rattle. For
2K the car looks good enough for a roll of the dice. I had a 74 XJ12L from
1979-88 and managed to keep it running most of the time. I may be looking
for a good used engine after this weekend for a quick swapout. I plan to
drive the car everyday so I’m not interested in a multi-year restoration. I
also turned up a pretty decent looking 86 XJ6 in maroon for $3,000.00. It
belongs to the same dealer who had (and still does) the red 86 XJS. Anyone
desiring his phone number can E-Mail me for it.
Thanks for all those who gave the valuable advice!
Gerald
From: GFoster737@gnn.com (Gerald Foster)
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 1996 00:06:46
Subject: Tires for 89 XJ40
I checked the Pirelli Home page on the Web (WWW.pirelli.com) looking for some
reasonably priced tires for my XJ40. Turns out they have a P 4000 super touring V
rated radial which seemed like a good replacement for the P5 which came on the car.
Pulled up a source on the internet (WWW.tires.com) and found a discount tire house
called the Tire Rack, located in South Bend. Ia. They give prices on the net on
most any tire you can name. Ordered 4 Pirelli 205/70VR15’s (P4000) for $82.00 each
plus shipping of 25.14 for the four. Ordered on a Monday and got them Wed. at 2:00PM
via UPS Groundsaver! Got a local tire dealer to mount, balance and 4 wheel align for
128.00. Tire Rack phone # is 1-800-428-8355. Michelin MXV4’s were $111.00 plus same
shipping. I am located about 500 miles from South Bend. The tires feel good and I
can tell no difference form the P5’s.
From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 21:14:58 -0700
Subject: new member, 85 XJS
I just joined jag-lovers and I am looking forward to sharing my experiences
and getting some help! Get ready for a long winded introduction. If you
make it to the end you’ll find a request for help, and an offer you might
not be able to refuse.
I have a 1985 XJ-S with 107,000 miles on it. The license plate says “IT
PURS”. It does…most of the time…it also coughs, spits, hisses and
occasionally (frequently?) wets the floor.
Over the past several years I have been slowly replacing worn/failed
mechanical parts. Last December (95) I totaled up the runing damages and
decided that I would either have to sell it and move on to another XJ-S (of
course), or I would invest some additional funds to “re-novate” the car and
keep it for a few more years. You can guess what I chose!!!
The paint was burning off (I live in Arizona, USA), and, the interior needed
to be re-done, so:
- I found a paint shop with good references, a friendly approach, a decent
price, and apparently able to do a “good” job (the local jag club I belong
to was of little help, it appears that most owners of older jags got them
already restored: so I went at this on my own and later found out that I was
right three out of four on my impressions of the paint shop; can you guess
which?) - stripped all the chrome and trim off the car myself, (boy was that fun!!)
- had the shop strip the old paint (this being the first time I have done
anything like this I found that “strip” is a relative term!!) and had them
re-paint the car in the original BRG (metallic finish)
4)Meantime I had ordered a “kit” for recovering the front seats, headliner
material for re-covering the same, and leather dye for refinishing the rest
of the leather in the car since it was beggining to show the underlying
leather and it had faded. - It took me about two weeks (I took some time off from work) and managed
to get it all the interior work done without major screw-ups!!(I had to
re-do the headliner side-rails, yes those thin strips above the windows,
three times; I won’t bore you with the bad luck details). I can honestly
say that the upholstering job turned out quite good…especially not having
done any of this before. The liner is not, too, bumpy; the recovered front
seats look great, and the re-painted (sorry redyed) leather actually matches
the recovered seats quite close. The only thing I am not happy with is that
the re-dyed surfaces came out shiny instead of flat. Any suggestions? - the paint job is something else. Overall, it is OK but it could have
been a great deal better had I known then what I know now (I sound like my
father used to). I can tell that they didn’t strip to bare metal as promised. - the last step in the process (am I an optimist or what?!), was to have
the original radio/tape deck removable face plate repaired (the display was
jumbled up, the buttons were sticking, and the tape deck was jamming). For
$100 they “replaced all the guts” and the thing works like new! - I have now almost completed putting the car back together. Its taken
six-months. Nt because it needed this much time but because i did it slowly.
The last thing to tackle is refinishing the wood trim. The wood itself is
in great shape, but the lacquer coating has hair cracks on it. I will strip
it and refinish it. - Total tab, so far, for the above (no accounting for my time), $3500.
What would I do different the next time I do this? Well, first I would take
the car for stripping to a specialty shop, I let myself be talked into
letting the paint shop strip the car even though the price difference for
going to a shop that only strips, using plastic media, would have been
negligible (paint shops paint, they really don’t like to strip, its messy,
and it actually requires some work). Second, I would have specified in my
contract with the paint shop that I would need to approve the strip job
before they painted the car (instead, and going on previous customer’s
recommendations, I trusted them; as you can tell they cut corners on the
stripping job!!). It is not enough to sue them…maybe.
Now I need some help:
- The shocks, front and back, need to be replaced. “Bogue” shocks seem to
be the standard, and Special Interest Car Parts seems to have them at a
reasonable price (reasonable is relative when it comes to jags, isn’t it?).
Are there other “standard” shocks (such as Monroe perhaps?), that work as
well? Also, it seems that the front shocks are not that difficult to
replace; is it something that can be done by me with a standard car jack
and a decent collection of wrenches? - The left front disc brake is warpped; it “shimmies” when I brake. The
jag dealer has graciously offered to fix this for a modest fee. Is taking
the rotors off to have them planed-off very difficult? The only brakes I
have ever worked on are standard drum brakes and I was able (a few years
back) to rebuild a couple of sets without much difficulty, on my own.
Last:
I have a bunch of parts from a (now defunct) 85 XJ-S that I would be willing
to sell (AC blowers, both sides; window lift mechanisms and motors, both
sides; door locks, with key, and electric motors, both sides; and, catalytic
converters, three, one didn’t survive the wreck). Any one interested?
From: Curt Onstott onstottc@ucs.orst.edu
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 22:24:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Seized Engine? ;(
I seek your pity and inspirational messages. I was driving along in my
XJ6, with it’s recently completed, completely rebuilt engine. The
temperature gauge was in the middle of its range the oil pressure was
holding steady at 50. I was at a stop sign, hit the gas and took off.
Realizing, that I was going double the speed limit, I hit the brakes. At
that very moment, the engine died. (It has never done that.) I coasted to
a stop and attempted to restart. The engine will not turn over at all. I
can hear the “thunk” of the pinion gear engaging, however the engine will
not budge. On my MG Midget, the starter occasionally jams and I rock the
car while it is in gear to disengage it. Luckily, I was almost in my
driveway when this happened.
I’m at a loss as to what I should do next. I don’t want to do anything
irrational at this point.
I’ve tried:
Using a jumper cable to connect the engine directly to the negative
terminal of the battery. No change.
Jumpering the positive terminal to the terminal on the starter. No luck
here either.
I cant seem to find a tool to use to try to turn the engine
by the pulley bolt. I’ve got a 1 5/16" wrench, but will have to pull the
radiator before I can turn the engine over.
Any ideas what happened? I hope it’s something electrical, but it’s not
looking like it is at this point.
- -To err is human. To err faster and more efficiently requires a computer.-
Curt Onstott - Windows/DOS/PC Specialist - Information Services - Oregon
State University. - (541) 737-1483 - Office: Kerr 217
From: “Richard Atherton (Entex)” a-richat@microsoft.com
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 23:40:56 -0700
Subject: RE: Seized Engine? ;(
You didn't mention what year it was or if it has a manual or automatic
transmission. If it is a manual, then put the car in fourth gear and
rock it back and fourth while someone watches the engine to see if it
turns even a little bit. You will have the mechanical advantage in
fourth gear. If it is an automatic, this obviously won’t work.
One other "odd" thing you can check. I bought a 81 mustang that the
exact same thing had happened to, except it was an old tired engine.
The owner had to hit the brakes to avoid another car, and SLAM -O - Wham
Bang. It locked up tight. The starter would not budge it. Rolled it
in fourth gear, and skidded. I bought it a year later for $75. and
when got it home, I put a socket on the dampener bolt and tried to turn
it with a 3’ breaker bar. All I managed to do was to break the right
engine mount (tore the rubber part). When I tried to turn it backwards,
it Turned !! It also had a ratchetting sound as it turned backwards.
When I tried to turn it forwards again, it was locked tight! I yelled I
know what it is !!! And I kept turning backwards until I heard what I
was waiting for. A light clatter and ker-plink, and then I could turn
it freely in both directions without any noise.
What had happened was a pressure plate bolt had worked its way out and
had fallen to the bottom of the bell housing. and was resting quietly in
the grease and gook at the bottom. When they previous owner hit the
brakes hard, the bolt came loose are rolled into the ring gear on the
fly wheel. It went round and round and finally jammed against the bell
housing just above the starter. When he pulled the starter to check it,
everything seemed fine. when they replaced it, it still couldn’t turn
the crank because it was still jammed. When I turned it backwards, the
jammed bolt just bounced on the ring gear teeth (the ratchetting noise),
but would jam again when turned forward. I just kept turning until it
fell free of the fly wheel. I took a 1 3/4 " hole saw and cut a hole in
the bottom of the bell housing and removed the deformed bolt, charged up
the battery and started it up. After filling my garage with smoke, it
ran fine. I drove it for another 5 years, and only put another $80 into
it for tune up parts…The previous owner, was really P.O. when I came
by the next day and told him what had happened. It cost him $3,000
…When it broke, he was on his way to trade it in on a new Escort GT.
(This was a true Story…)
So......The moral of the story ??? Always try and turn it backwards if
it gets jammed! It could save you thousands of Dollars.
If it is an automatic, the Torque converter bolts can come and do the
same thing. I had them come out once in a Chevy Monza and rattled a
round and made a lot of noise, but didn’t lock it up. The inspection
plate made it a lot easier to remove the damaged bolts and to put in the
new ones. I never did replace the missing bolt on the Mustang…
Good Luck. I hope it is not actually seized. If it won't turn in
either direction. Try removing all of the spark plugs, then use and air
hose (attached to a compressor) with a rubber tip, and pressurize each
cylinder. At least one will be on the expansion or compression stroke.
Pump 125 psi into the cylinder and see if it will move. If it
won’t…it’s going to be …very…expensive }8-(
Sorry for making this so long.
Rich
From: Curt Onstott[SMTP:onstottc@ucs.orst.edu]
Sent: Thursday, June 20, 1996 10:24 PM
To: Jaguar_Mail_List
Subject: Seized Engine? ;(I seek your pity and inspirational messages. I was driving along in my
XJ6, with it’s recently completed, completely rebuilt engine. The
temperature gauge was in the middle of its range the oil pressure was
holding steady at 50. I was at a stop sign, hit the gas and took off.
Realizing, that I was going double the speed limit, I hit the brakes.
At
that very moment, the engine died. (It has never done that.) I coasted
to
a stop and attempted to restart. The engine will not turn over at all.
I
can hear the “thunk” of the pinion gear engaging, however the engine
will
not budge. On my MG Midget, the starter occasionally jams and I rock
the
car while it is in gear to disengage it. Luckily, I was almost in my
driveway when this happened.I’m at a loss as to what I should do next. I don’t want to do anything
irrational at this point.I’ve tried:
Using a jumper cable to connect the engine directly to the negative
terminal of the battery. No change.Jumpering the positive terminal to the terminal on the starter. No
luck
here either.I cant seem to find a tool to use to try to turn the engine
by the pulley bolt. I’ve got a 1 5/16" wrench, but will have to pull
the
radiator before I can turn the engine over.Any ideas what happened? I hope it’s something electrical, but it’s
not
looking like it is at this point.-To err is human. To err faster and more efficiently requires a
computer.-Curt Onstott - Windows/DOS/PC Specialist - Information Services -
Oregon
State University. - (541) 737-1483 - Office: Kerr 217
From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 1996 03:09:56 -0400
Subject: Re: hay-fevererish Mk 2 owner…
Richard King writes:
RK> I see in a South African car magazine (called… Car Magazine!)
RK> that someone local is making an evaporative cooler. Looks like a
RK> small round tank that goes in the boot (trunk) and a fan blows air
RK> over a wet surface and then through vents into the car interior.
RK> Apart from the cooling effect (if any…!)
Golly, it’s amazing how these things stay around forever! The evaporative
cooler really DOES work - using the same principles as swamp coolers found
frequently in desert communities. I’ve seen a couple in use in pre-AC era
cars, though the ones I saw mounted in the passenger window & used a ram air
scoop instead of a fan. They look pretty ungainly (sort of like a small jet
engine sitting at the top of the window, though the window mounted ones are
very “period” for a 40’s or 50’s car. Simple, too & you can easily remove it
when you don’t need cooling. The most recent one I saw was in a early 50’s
Ford so it ought to be right at home in a Mk 1 or early Mk 2. Too bad
Kirby’s not around this month or he could probably give us a complete history
of swamp coolers for cars.
-Steve A.
BTW, is the South African Car Magazine the same as the British Car Magazine?
From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 1996 03:10:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Insurance
Jim Isbell writes:
JI> Here in Texas you are AUTOMATICALY covered for 30 days after the
JI> purchase of a new car to the extent that your other car(s) are
JI> covered. All you have to do is notify the insurance carrier within
JI> that 30 days and agree to pay the premium.
Is that true if your fleet contains some cars with insurance & others
without? What about if you have more than one carrier (like collector’s
insurance on one of the vehicles)? My E Type isn’t insured right now as the
windows are out & it has a case of shipwright’s disease (not terminal). I
suspect that the coverage may be dependent on the carrier & circumstances
rather than a state law.
-Steve A.
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 1996 11:24:26 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: new member, 85 XJS
) The shocks, front and back, need to be replaced. “Bogue” shocks seem to
be the standard, and Special Interest Car Parts seems to have them at a
reasonable price (reasonable is relative when it comes to jags, isn’t it?).
Are there other “standard” shocks (such as Monroe perhaps?), that work as
well? Also, it seems that the front shocks are not that difficult to
replace; is it something that can be done by me with a standard car jack
and a decent collection of wrenches?
I’m also planning to change my front shocks, the original are Boge, but
I was told by a friend that they wore out pretty fast. He recommended
Koni shocks, I heard this from several other people as well. I just got a
quote in my email, 1 shock 55 pounds.
Yes, they are easy to remove. I had them out when I changed my front wheel
disks and I found it easier to remove them for easy access to some bolts,
it’s really a question of minutes. I used some wire to compress them when
I pulled them out for easier manipulation. Something in additon to change
might be the shock bushes.
- The left front disc brake is warpped; it “shimmies” when I brake. The
jag dealer has graciously offered to fix this for a modest fee. Is taking
the rotors off to have them planed-off very difficult? The only brakes I
have ever worked on are standard drum brakes and I was able (a few years
back) to rebuild a couple of sets without much difficulty, on my own.
I had the same problem on my '88 XJ-S and I simply changed the rotors
and pads. I think a new rotor was about 25 pounds.
Do you have Kirby’s XJ-S booklet ?
What kind of dye did you use ?
-
- Matthias
From: Thomas van Brackel poker@uni-paderborn.de
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 1996 13:19:39 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: XJ12_engine
Hello everyone,
I have some problems with my XJ12 Souverin.
In cause of an accident the block of the engine
and the gearbox are broken.
I tried to find a new engine all over Germany for
the last two years, and the only thing I found out is …
!!! YOU BETTER HAVE NO TROUBLE LIKE THIS !!!
but never the less, here are some numbers which I found
on the block :
6 MR 89 perhaps the day of construction
7P 6235 7SB
DE 296
BA 87016
EBC 2918 P
If you can help me to find a block, a whole engine, a gear(box),
or you even know anything about the meening of the
above numbers send me an answer.
Thanks,
Thomas
From: James_H._Legge@hud.gov
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 96 09:12:27 EST
Subject: Lighten up
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
I got a chuckle out of this message. I’ve never heard heard
those little clips referred to as “crocodile clips”. Over
here we call them “alligator clips”, or down here
below the mason-dixon, just “gator clips”.
Jim '85 XJ6 '80 TR7
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 17:30:19 +0100
Subject: Re: MK1/2 Spare tire cover
At the risk of being too simplistic - deflate the tyre! Then go get a small
tyre inflater that runs off 12V (usually the cigar lighter, but you can
always
put crocodile clips on the end). If you’re near a Euro-scrapyard, look in
any Porsche 944 - they come with a really nice inflation kit for space
saver spares.
Ian
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From: hewittr@iaccess.com.au (RON HEWITT)
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 1996 23:11:14 GMT
Subject: XJ6 FUEL FILL DRAIN
Hi new to the list just another Ausie from the top of NSW
Don’t try to bring late model cars to Australia as we have approx one third
of the population working for the various governments all making laws to
keep their jobs, most factories won’t even try and supply a full range of
models to Australia as to obtain compliance is to costly.
I was talking to a motorcycle dealer the other day who told me that to get
compliance for the ABS brakes (which aids safety)on a model which is sold
here without ABS. Compliance cost just to add the ABS would be equal to the
cost of one motorcycle.
Also the authorities often will not allow imported vehicles off the wharf
unless they are going direct to somebody who has a compliance certificate,
as these certificates are often granted only for certain models if you have
the wrong model in the container you may have your vehicle tied up on the
wharf paying ridiculous high charges whilst looking for somebody with the
right piece of paper on the wall, it can be done but do your home work first
and as cars over here are more expensive they are usually looked after
better so only top cars are saleable at a profit but many tales tell of
losses and heart break.
Enough of this here is a small tip I have used on my S111
When working on my XJ6 S111 I had the bottom of the rear guards off to clean
and rust prevent, the two hoses which drain the water from the fuel fillers
stop inside these covers therefore keeping wet the inside of the covers
which must be a rust haven as its usually full of dirt and damp mud creates
rust.
An easy mod is to extend these hoses with a bit of 3/8 pipe about 6" long
bent to fit so it pokes out the original drain holes.
Cheers
Ron
From: “Himes,John W.” jwh@dw.att.com
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 96 08:18:00 PDT
Subject: Japan Classic?
Someone wrote:
“BMW has produced two classics, Mercedes one, all of Japan one.”
Is Japan’s classic Godzilla?
John Himes
From: John Wild jmw@lupine.demon.co.uk
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 1996 16:12:21 +0100 (BST)
Subject: S2 E-Type, Getrag 5 speed conv.
I would like to fit a Getrag 5 speed manual gearbox into my 1970 2+2 auto
E-Type. I could buy a kit with all I need for nearly 2000 pounds, but I
prefer to hunt for a second had one, doing it the hard (inexpensive) way.
The five speed manual box fitted to the XJS 3.6, XJ6 S3, XJ40’s
seem a good starting point. However, I have been warned that SOME of the
later 5 speed boxes have electrical gizmos attached, and that these type
are unsuitable. Does anyone have information as to WHEN these later boxes
were introduced, and any other things to avoid (eg, are boxes from 2.8
and 3.4 XJ6’s OK?). Also any advice on bell housings and clutches???
My Haynes Manual for XJ6 (No. 242) states of the 5 speed box:
“The gearbox is generally known as the 77mm gearbox… The same type of
gearbox is found in other vehicles in the BL range, notably the TR7 and
the Rover SD1.” Has anyone used a replacement box from one of these
in a Jaguar? Were there problems???
I have seen an S1.5 roadster with the 5 speed box fitted, and I have
spoken with the owner of a 2+2 5 speed who said that it was a fantastic
improvement over the auto box.
The down side was having to cut a new hole in the bell housing for the
gear stick, re-machining the drive shaft, and on the 2+2, some
repositioning of the handbrake was required.
TIA,
John Wild.
1970 XKE 2+2 auto.
1967 Jensen FF - Brit cars with a lump.
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #163
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jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 22 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 164
Spark Plug change 88 XJ-S
'77 xj6c; emission control
77 xj6c; air injection pump
E-Type roadster for sale
rec’s for tranny replacement - Nor Cal
S2 XJ-6/12/parts/free
XJ40 Bonnet lights – fixed and thanks
Re: 77 xj6c; air injection pump
Re: S2 XJ-6/12/parts/free/what might have been
Re: S2 E-Type, Getrag 5 speed conv.
Jag-Lovers Membership
Re: Spark Plug change 88 XJ-S
Re: S2 E-Type, Getrag 5 speed conv.
Prices in Australia
Re: wet-coolers - no good
Re: Expensive Jags you also get in Denmark
From: “Himes,John W.” jwh@dw.att.com
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 96 08:36:00 PDT
Subject: Spark Plug change 88 XJ-S
I finally got around to changing the plugs on my 88 XJ-S. What a pain in
the (!)…
At first I tried to remove the front plugs w/o removing the A/C compressor.
I do have a small spark plug socket that would fit, but when the plus is
about 1/2 screwed out, the socked was against the compressor. Removing the
compressor was not as bad as I thought, just remove 4 bolts and prop it out
of the way. ( Just remember not to remove the bolt that holds the sandwich
plate that holds the hoses against the compressor, or you will have to get
your A/C system recharged. :-(. And no I did not do this ) Removing the
cruise control bellows made things very easy for the front 3 or 4 on each
side. The problem plugs for me were 5A, 6A, 5B. These plugs were really
inaccessible, or a wiring column was just enough in the way to make it hard
to start threading the plug. Using some flexible hose to start the new plug
in hard to reach places is a great idea. Thanks to all who have mentioned
this in the past. I did use NKG (sp?) plugs. The car idles more stable
now. The old plugs were WAY out of gap. The manuals call for a gap of
.025. The plugs I removed were between .040 - .050. At least there were no
bad surprises. ( fouled plugs, plugs wet with oil or coolant ) Seems to run
better and quicker pickup. Should have done this much sooner.
If you are still reading this, I do have a question. I have seen many posts
about seized centrifugal advances on the distributor. I do see this in a
parts explosion in a manual for 84 and older. In my manual for my 88, there
is no mention of this. Does the 88 XJ-S V12 have the centrifugal advance,
or is this a different distributor.
I am going to replace the rotor and cap later this summer. They both looked
ok, but could use replacing. They do show a little wear.
John Himes
88 XJ-S 94K miles
From: cci@intex.net (Reginald J. G. Heber)
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 1996 09:56:09 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: '77 xj6c; emission control
Good morning(here) all,
Any fisher-people on the list? My ‘fish’ may be bigger than yours! Recently
I asked for suggestions re my a/c problem(s). (Thanks to those who replied!)
In summary, on a recent trip, it began to switch back and forth between
cooling and HEATing with shorter and shorter cooling cycles. Then, after we
got back, the a/c wouldn’t run at all.
AND the windshield wipers ran continuously.
To shorten the story (but not the ‘fish’), the wiper fuse is adjacent to the
a/c relay & clutch fuse. When the wiper fuse is pulled, the a/c works, and,
naturally (poor assumption in Jag ) the wipers stop. To have both
function, one must place the wiper fuse so that one end is well seated but
the other end makes only minimal contact.
Obviously (!?), there is a problem with - or behind - the fuse block. I’ll
attack that this weekend.
The work-around for the cycling heat/cool was to catch the amplifier when it
switched to max cool and pull its fuse thus putting the kibosh on its truly
artificial ‘inteligence’. Must be time to order one from H&R; I know I have
their email address here…somewhere.
Regards, Jon Heber
140, 150, xj6c
From: cci@intex.net (Reginald J. G. Heber)
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 1996 10:13:52 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: 77 xj6c; air injection pump
New question;
I noticed there is what appears to be an attachment point for a vacuum line
on the valve at the rear of the air injection pump, but no vacuum line.
There is also a small metal tube that runs from that vicinity, around the
front of the engine, to which is attached a ~12" piece of rubber tubing -
going nowhere. I also noticed, while I was resting under the car, a vacuum
port about midway on the intake manifold. It is ‘stoppered’.
A) Should there be a vacuum line to the air pump? And what is its function?
B) Does the path described above sound like the proper route?
C) The car is barely in spec on the CO portion of the emission test; how
is the above related to that, if at all.
Thanks for the help.
Jon
From: “Norm deCarteret (914-759-4559)” nsdec@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 96 11:21:02 EDT
Subject: E-Type roadster for sale
1969 Series II primrose roadster for sale, mechanically sound,
black interior leather worn but not cracked, good black soft top,
factory hardtop and A/C, tonneau in box, paint serviceable with
minor dins. Owned in Tampa since 1983, moved to Penna and would
like to sell before transporting it to PA. Norm 717-296-5140
(PS: 74K miles, I bought w/67K, carbs just rebuilt, top engine done
when I bought, along with brakes, shocks, steering; all receipts)
From: Jim Goring jgoring@FGS.com
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 1996 08:38:30 +0000
Subject: rec’s for tranny replacement - Nor Cal
Hi all
well… Bagheera (65 3.8 S-Type) is about to receive major surgery this
summer… New late model GM transmission to replace the gone to heaven
BW DG250 unit, plus a new power rack and pinion kit. I am in the San
Francisco Bay area, and would appreciate any recommendations for good
shops to carry out this work. I have been trying to locate Sun Coast
Conversions, but have no idea where they are… southern CA I think.
I’d appreciate any suggestions from the list… particularly if someone
has had similar work done on their own S-Type or MKII.
thanks
Jim Goring
Frank, Goring & Straja Architects jgoring@FGS.com
1144 65th Street Voice: (510) 595 9000
Oakland, CA 94608 Fax: (510) 595 9209
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 1996 13:31:48 -0400
Subject: S2 XJ-6/12/parts/free
HI ALL,
A friend of mine just gave me a set of S2 XJ-12 front hubs/calipers/spindle
supports (uprights) to use in my E-type brake/susp upgrade (don’t try this
w/out GTJ steering arms!).
He also gave me some parts that I don’t need…
- upper & lower front A-arms (very clean)
- steering arms (also clean)
- complete instiment panel w/ gauges, swiches, a/c vents etc. -wood ok but
varnish lifting at corners (no dash top or console)
If anyone needs these (and isn’t just going to sell them) E-mail me and you can
have them - we’ll work out shipping. Or I’ll be at Mid-Ohio 6-21 (tomorrow)
Mark McChesney mmcchesn@ford.com
we had a nice V-12 too but thats gone.
- -what these parts WERE going to be used for is an interesting story…
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 1996 12:48:52 -0500
Subject: XJ40 Bonnet lights – fixed and thanks
Hey, hey, hey – jag-lovers come through for a friend again!! Sure enough
it was the switch in the front of the car that the list suggested. A little
WD40 and working it a bit and they work like a charm.
Glad I didn’t let my jag dealer near it for that problem! He had said that
for about an hour’s work ($67.00 usd per hour) they could ‘probably’ get it
working right!
Now, if WD40 would just work on my a/c compressor
Thanks again to the world of jag-lovers out there! You all are great!
Scott Phillips
'88 XJ40, with working bonnet lights, but still no a/c.
From: nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu (Nikolai Chitaev)
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 1996 14:16:18 -0600
Subject: Re: 77 xj6c; air injection pump
New question;
I noticed there is what appears to be an attachment point for a vacuum line
on the valve at the rear of the air injection pump, but no vacuum line.
There is also a small metal tube that runs from that vicinity, around the
front of the engine, to which is attached a ~12" piece of rubber tubing -
going nowhere. I also noticed, while I was resting under the car, a vacuum
port about midway on the intake manifold. It is ‘stoppered’.
A) Should there be a vacuum line to the air pump? And what is its function?
Yes, there should be. Its function to operate a valve, which will redirect the air flow to the exhaust. However, normaly it is blocked by solenoid operated valve, and will work only when solenoid get its current (which is
temperature dependent).
B) Does the path described above sound like the proper route?
The part described above is the rout which normaly should be ended into air
filter housing. At normal temperatures air pamp is pumping air to the
atmosphere, and I believe due to estetical reasons, the end of this rout is
placed into air inlet.
C) The car is barely in spec on the CO portion of the emission test; how
is the above related to that, if at all.
Basically, the only things affected seriously by air pump are catalytic
converters. I believe, carbon deposits on their surface will significantly
shorten their life, and excess of oxigen helps burn its out.
Simultaneously, feedback from oxigen sensor is inhibited. But all this
happens only at very cool temperatures and only in very short period of
time. All the other ways, the pump just pumping air to atmosphere.Thanks for the help.
Jon
Nikolai A. Chitaev, PhD.
<<87`XJ6 4.2L, EFI, BRG>>
{nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu}
{http://128.252.119.253}
St.Louis, Missouri, USA
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 1996 15:41:29 -0400
Subject: Re: S2 XJ-6/12/parts/free/what might have been
we had a nice V-12 too but thats gone.
-what these parts WERE going to be used for is an interesting story…
OK, here is the story.
Back in 1990 a friend of mine approached me about doing a ‘modern’ E-type for
very limited production (Jaguar/Ford not involved). He was going to do the
chassis and he wanted me to do the styling. I have learned not to take what
this friend says too lightly as he actually does what he says he is going to
do. He is David Piontek and he did the Sportek sports car that some of you may
have seen in Car&Driver or Motortrend. - 0-60 in 3.7sec etc. He built 10. Dave
asked me to do the styling for that car too (1987) and I’m still kicking myself
for not taking him seriously.(he did let me do the interior for it latter). So
the Jag thing sounded great. The chassis was to be adhesive bonded alloy and
the exterior was to be hand hammered alu. I did some sketches and a 1/4 scale
model around the engineering package he supplied. I must say the thing looked
great. We spent a lot of time working out the proportions and it looked like a
very aggressive E-type on hormones (wish I knew how to attach a photo). Anyway,
Dave got a bent S2 XJ-12 as donor(for the prototype). The V-12 was getting 6
Delorttos and a 6-speed gearbox, the chassis was going to use the XJ susp. and
brakes, until we learned how bad the geometry is on the XJs (and how much the
calipers weighed!) which is why I have them now. So, a new suspension then. The
model was cast and a copy still resides at Pioneer Engineering in their lobby.
Pioneer (not the audio people) was to build the car but then there were some
problems and the thing is now stuck in some hopeless negotiations. It would
have been fast as it was very light and it would have handled as we had some of
the best susp. development people in the world involved." Would have" seems to
be the key words here as a runner was never built. Maybe at another time.
Anyway, anybody want these parts…
Mark
From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 1996 16:12:48 -0400
Subject: Re: S2 E-Type, Getrag 5 speed conv.
I want to perform the same basic surgery on my '88 XJ-S. Where can you get a
kit with all you need for 2000 pounds???
Just to add some confusion, I was working on my Chevy Suburban last week and the
manual fell open to the manual transmission section. Lo and behold, there’s an
exploded drawing of a transmission with the title “Getrag 5-spd (85mm)” WHOA!!
sez I . . . If there’s one thing I’m sure of, it’s that Chevy parts are a ton
cheaper than Jag parts here in the rebellious colonies. The bad news is that
the Getrag (at least the one used in the Chevy) has an integral bell housing
which certainly won’t bolt up to the back of my V-12. It also appears that the
different versions have different shifter locations (fore and aft). That may be
good news for you, since it appears that the shifter can go in any location by
changing a few shifter bits. Can anyone out there confirm or deny that?
The bad news is that it appears that most versions have no provisions for
mechanical speedometer hookup. Since most (if not all) of the Jags that used a
Getrag 5-spd also had electronic speedometers that could be a problem for you.
Not for me, since I have an electronic speedometer.
Keep in touch with your progress, as will I. I very much want to get a 5-speed
if I can do it for a reasonable cost. A few have dangled $3000 - $5000 prices,
but the magically turn into $10,000 when you go to take them up on it.
PS: Gran Tourisimo Jags here in the US offer a 6-speed kit for most Jags,
including 6 cyl E-Types. If you have the pedal box, supply the clutch and do
some sub-assembly it’s about $6500 US$ in the price list I have. It’s a
stronger transmission, but I would have to modify my XJ-S console more than I
care to.
PPS: A Jensen FF. Cool! I worked for a dealer who sold them way back. The ones
I worked on were Chrysler 383s with 4wd and a Dunlop Maxeret ABS. Way ahead of
their time in a lot of ways.
MikeC m.cogswell@zds.com
'74 E-Type OTS
'88 XJ-S (H&E Convertible)
'88 Honda Accord (333,000 miles and climbing)
'91 Chevy Suburban (when you really need the room)
'96 Honda Accord (hope it lasts as long as the '88)
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: S2 E-Type, Getrag 5 speed conv.
Author: John Wild jmw@lupine.demon.co.uk at INTERNET
Date: 06/21/96 04:12 PM
I would like to fit a Getrag 5 speed manual gearbox into my 1970 2+2 auto
E-Type. I could buy a kit with all I need for nearly 2000 pounds, but I prefer
to hunt for a second had one, doing it the hard (inexpensive) way.
The five speed manual box fitted to the XJS 3.6, XJ6 S3, XJ40’s
seem a good starting point. However, I have been warned that SOME of the later 5
speed boxes have electrical gizmos attached, and that these type are unsuitable.
Does anyone have information as to WHEN these later boxes were introduced, and
any other things to avoid (eg, are boxes from 2.8 and 3.4 XJ6’s OK?). Also any
advice on bell housings and clutches???
My Haynes Manual for XJ6 (No. 242) states of the 5 speed box:
“The gearbox is generally known as the 77mm gearbox… The same type of
gearbox is found in other vehicles in the BL range, notably the TR7 and the
Rover SD1.” Has anyone used a replacement box from one of these
in a Jaguar? Were there problems???
I have seen an S1.5 roadster with the 5 speed box fitted, and I have spoken with
the owner of a 2+2 5 speed who said that it was a fantastic improvement over the
auto box.
The down side was having to cut a new hole in the bell housing for the gear
stick, re-machining the drive shaft, and on the 2+2, some repositioning of the
handbrake was required.
TIA,
John Wild.
1970 XKE 2+2 auto.
1967 Jensen FF - Brit cars with a lump.
From: Robert Richardson rrichardson@eurekanet.com
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 1996 18:12:01 -0500
Subject: Jag-Lovers Membership
I would like to become a member of Jag Lovers and also would like the
form that would enable to describe my special interest in Jaguars.
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 1996 21:10:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Spark Plug change 88 XJ-S
I have found that the stock Jag spark plug wrench from the tool kit will
remove the front plugs OK, without removing the compressor. This was on
an 82 XJ-S HE.
On Fri, 21 Jun 1996, Himes,John W. wrote:
I finally got around to changing the plugs on my 88 XJ-S. What a pain in
the (!)…
At first I tried to remove the front plugs w/o removing the A/C compressor.
I do have a small spark plug socket that would fit, but when the plus is
about 1/2 screwed out, the socked was against the compressor. Removing the
compressor was not as bad as I thought, just remove 4 bolts and prop it out
of the way. ( Just remember not to remove the bolt that holds the sandwich
plate that holds the hoses against the compressor, or you will have to get
your A/C system recharged. :-(. And no I did not do this ) Removing the
cruise control bellows made things very easy for the front 3 or 4 on each
side. The problem plugs for me were 5A, 6A, 5B. These plugs were really
inaccessible, or a wiring column was just enough in the way to make it hard
to start threading the plug. Using some flexible hose to start the new plug
in hard to reach places is a great idea. Thanks to all who have mentioned
this in the past. I did use NKG (sp?) plugs. The car idles more stable
now. The old plugs were WAY out of gap. The manuals call for a gap of
.025. The plugs I removed were between .040 - .050. At least there were no
bad surprises. ( fouled plugs, plugs wet with oil or coolant ) Seems to run
better and quicker pickup. Should have done this much sooner.If you are still reading this, I do have a question. I have seen many posts
about seized centrifugal advances on the distributor. I do see this in a
parts explosion in a manual for 84 and older. In my manual for my 88, there
is no mention of this. Does the 88 XJ-S V12 have the centrifugal advance,
or is this a different distributor.I am going to replace the rotor and cap later this summer. They both looked
ok, but could use replacing. They do show a little wear.John Himes
88 XJ-S 94K miles
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 21 Jun 1996 21:25:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: S2 E-Type, Getrag 5 speed conv.
Now, maybe you can attach that Chevy bellhousing. Doesn’t John’s Cars
offer quarterbreed kit, which puts a TH350 into a BW Jag? Wouldn’t this
be the part you need? And if so, couldn’t I then use the same part to
mount a Chevy bellhousing behind my 82 V12?
I tried to check this out w/ John’s Cars a while ago. The guy I talked
to said that they would not split up a kit to sell me only the part I
needed. I tried to appeal to John hisself, but he wasn’t around, and I
haven’t followed up. But if this works, a lot of Jags can get manual
transmissions a lot less expensively - there is no way that I would
sink $5000-$10000 US in my car for a transmission!
On Fri, 21 Jun 1996, Mike Cogswell wrote:
I want to perform the same basic surgery on my '88 XJ-S. Where can you get a
kit with all you need for 2000 pounds???Just to add some confusion, I was working on my Chevy Suburban last week and the
manual fell open to the manual transmission section. Lo and behold, there’s an
exploded drawing of a transmission with the title “Getrag 5-spd (85mm)” WHOA!!
sez I . . . If there’s one thing I’m sure of, it’s that Chevy parts are a ton
cheaper than Jag parts here in the rebellious colonies. The bad news is that
the Getrag (at least the one used in the Chevy) has an integral bell housing
which certainly won’t bolt up to the back of my V-12. It also appears that the
different versions have different shifter locations (fore and aft). That may be
good news for you, since it appears that the shifter can go in any location by
changing a few shifter bits. Can anyone out there confirm or deny that?The bad news is that it appears that most versions have no provisions for
mechanical speedometer hookup. Since most (if not all) of the Jags that used a
Getrag 5-spd also had electronic speedometers that could be a problem for you.
Not for me, since I have an electronic speedometer.Keep in touch with your progress, as will I. I very much want to get a 5-speed
if I can do it for a reasonable cost. A few have dangled $3000 - $5000 prices,
but the magically turn into $10,000 when you go to take them up on it.PS: Gran Tourisimo Jags here in the US offer a 6-speed kit for most Jags,
including 6 cyl E-Types. If you have the pedal box, supply the clutch and do
some sub-assembly it’s about $6500 US$ in the price list I have. It’s a
stronger transmission, but I would have to modify my XJ-S console more than I
care to.PPS: A Jensen FF. Cool! I worked for a dealer who sold them way back. The ones
I worked on were Chrysler 383s with 4wd and a Dunlop Maxeret ABS. Way ahead of
their time in a lot of ways.MikeC m.cogswell@zds.com
'74 E-Type OTS
'88 XJ-S (H&E Convertible)
'88 Honda Accord (333,000 miles and climbing)
'91 Chevy Suburban (when you really need the room)
'96 Honda Accord (hope it lasts as long as the '88)______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: S2 E-Type, Getrag 5 speed conv.
Author: John Wild jmw@lupine.demon.co.uk at INTERNET
Date: 06/21/96 04:12 PMI would like to fit a Getrag 5 speed manual gearbox into my 1970 2+2 auto
E-Type. I could buy a kit with all I need for nearly 2000 pounds, but I prefer
to hunt for a second had one, doing it the hard (inexpensive) way.The five speed manual box fitted to the XJS 3.6, XJ6 S3, XJ40’s
seem a good starting point. However, I have been warned that SOME of the later 5
speed boxes have electrical gizmos attached, and that these type are unsuitable.
Does anyone have information as to WHEN these later boxes were introduced, and
any other things to avoid (eg, are boxes from 2.8 and 3.4 XJ6’s OK?). Also any
advice on bell housings and clutches???My Haynes Manual for XJ6 (No. 242) states of the 5 speed box:
“The gearbox is generally known as the 77mm gearbox… The same type of
gearbox is found in other vehicles in the BL range, notably the TR7 and the
Rover SD1.” Has anyone used a replacement box from one of these
in a Jaguar? Were there problems???I have seen an S1.5 roadster with the 5 speed box fitted, and I have spoken with
the owner of a 2+2 5 speed who said that it was a fantastic improvement over the
auto box.The down side was having to cut a new hole in the bell housing for the gear
stick, re-machining the drive shaft, and on the 2+2, some repositioning of the
handbrake was required.TIA,
John Wild.
1970 XKE 2+2 auto.
1967 Jensen FF - Brit cars with a lump.
From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@compuserve.com
Date: 21 Jun 96 22:35:10 EDT
Subject: Prices in Australia
Robert asked why Aussie prices are high. Same reason as Norway: taxes (on new
cars). From time to time there are arbitrage opportunities, and we have cars
imported from either the UK or the US, or occasionally going back the other way
(XKs at least). As an example, many XK150s were imported into Aus from the UK
in the 1960s, and also in the late 70s early 80s. Since about 1985, there have
been several dozen XKs imported from the US - usually basket cases and 140s or
150s (easier to convert to RHD than 120s). The imports have slowed in recent
years: the cars cost a fortune to restore properly, and are not worth the
investment in the end (in monetary terms anyway) with the slump in the classic
car market the last few years. But I would not doubt that money is still made
by some imports of some models. There are import concessions for old cars (?
over 30 years), later cars have quite a few hurdles to get over. New Jaguars
here range between about AUD 120k and 200k (say USD 95k - 160k). Regards, John
Elmgreen.
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 22 Jun 96 03:48:32 EDT
Subject: Re: wet-coolers - no good
Hi,
the wet-coolers are close to useless, and they damp up the car. You can forget
this idea.
Ion-generators are to some hay fever people better than nothing but in reality
these devices charge the dust particles up, so they immediately find somewhere
to attract to. This means the dust settles on everything insdide the car. - no
good either.
only slight help is a pollen filter in the inlet air stream, or a filter blower
running in-sied the car. I have one from NSA (multilevel marketing), they do
work, but make a hell of a noise.
regards Jeffrey Gram
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 22 Jun 96 03:48:30 EDT
Subject: Re: Expensive Jags you also get in Denmark
Yep,.
Scandinavia is not a Car-paradise. Denmark (where I came from )has a car tax
policy just as raving
mad as Norway.
Once I was interested in a job in Denmark I checked with customs. They wanted
165.000 DKr (about 25.000 US $) just to get registration on the the 1978 XJ6C,
and 85.000 for the VW golf. Absolutely insane. These are MY cars . I paid for
them with taxed money in a European union country (and Denmark is in this
union), I did’nt buy them to sell and make money, and they want to TAX ME !!! ON
MY BELONGINGS !!
Raving mad, lunetics. All other european union have resonable rules for import
in connection with immigration, but not Denmark. Denmark still manages to steer
clear of the Europen goverments directives.
This would about 50% to 75% of what I could expect in salary per year , and
then earn 50% less, and pay 25% more in Tax -not me. Not anymore. No - I’m
afraid Good old denmark is only a country where my parents live. Love it but
living there after 11 years in Holland and Germany I guess is not in anymore,
unless I could save up a million bucks to spend but, Not good at saving
either…
In denmark they put about 180% tax on the car and then 25% VAt…
In Holland about 40% +17.5% VAT.
In Germany only 15% Vat - Guess where I bought the Twelve cylinder…for 8000 $
(and 4000$ in minor repairs…)
Regards (and Gunnar I feel with you)
Jeffrey Gram
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #164
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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 24 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 165
Typing errors,stud removal.
Looking for a 420G body shell
New member on the list
XJ6 vapor lock.
88 XJ-S Spark Plug change
XJ6 SIII Temp & Other Stuff (Mostly Other Stuff)
1985 XJ6 VDP Ignition
XJ40 – fuses and relays
XJ-S H.E. Centrifugal Advance
XK120 sidelights
Copy of: XK120 sidelights
67 xke - crow engineering
Lets start the Chebby lump thing all over again.
Re: why a Jaguar?
67 xke
Re: Aussie Prices
[SIII XJ6) Cold start injector disconnected. Why?
Re: [SIII XJ6) Cold start injector disconnected. Why?
From: Don Tracey dont@echuca.net.au
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 1996 08:56:08 +1100
Subject: Typing errors,stud removal.
Robert Abascal - '63 XKE OTS, '66 XKE CoupeRobert, The term Aussie
is certainly not derogatary. Just got the latest
copy of Australian Jaguar ,which lists new Jag prices
$A1=$US.79c
XJ6 3.2 $A124,000 ($US979560)
XJR $A175,500 ($US138,OOO) Don Tracey
Apologies to Nick for not putting the subject and making extra work
for him,also typing when running late for work produces typing errors,
hence the XJ6 3.2 is not $979560 but around $US 97k ,the price of petrol
I gave in US is per US gallon.($2.26 per US gallon)
Also on the subject of seized or frozen bolts in alloy,I do in my line
of work. I would not reccomend anyone who is not experienced ,using easy
outs and anyone with experience wouldn’t use them anyway.I presume we
are talking the tapered ones, these tend to expand in the hole the
harder you try. There are better types available Stahwille make an
excellant stud remover but fairly expensive (here in Australia,anyway).
The process I use when the stud is in aluminium and of a reasonable size
(3/8" or over) is to build up the stud with a mig welder (very
carefully)and to the built up metal which is proud of the aluminium
place a nut over top and mig it onto the bolt allow to cool and with
plenty of crc or whatever gently try and work the bolt out,the heat from
the welding seems to help with the process.If the bolt is not broken,
grind off or remove the head this gives you a bit already protruding
weld the nut to this.
Don Tracey
Australia
From: “Lauren Hansman” lauren@ncdto.ncd.com
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 1996 08:28:06 -0500
Subject: Looking for a 420G body shell
Hi Folks
Yes, it’s hard to believe with all this talk about those super-thin
models, but some of us do prefer the Rubenesque body form!
I have a 1968 420G with a dinged up front. The car is complete
mechanically and interior wise with very low mileage and I would like to
put it back together. However, my investigations to date have led me to
believe that I might be wiser to transfer my bits to another shell
rather than spend the money and effort straightening out my current
body.
I am interested in getting a rust free 420G shell and don’t need any
trim or mechanical bits if it has already been stripped. I have a tow
vehicle and trailer and am in the Toronto area so North America is where
I hope to find this curvacious bod.
Thanks
Lauren
_/ _/ _/_/_/ _/_/_/ Lauren Hansman
_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ District Manager, Eastern Canada
_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ Network Computing Devices
_/ // _/ _/ _/ 141 Brunel Rd., Suite #110
/ / /// /// Mississauga, Ont. L4Z 1X3
Phone: (905) 501-1800 FAX: (905) 501-1808 email: lauren@ncd.com
http://www.ncd.com
From: Schoch-Wegmueller@www-sol2.swissonline.ch
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 96 17:46:48 PDT
Subject: New member on the list
Name: Schoch-Wegmueller
E-mail: Schoch-Wegmueller@mail.swissonline.ch
Date: 22.06.96
Time: 17:46:48
Hello, my name is Martin Wegmueller. I have just joined the list. I live in Bergdietikon,
Switzerland. I own a 1959 XK 150 RHD indigo blue which I bought in London, drove to Switzerland
in 1993 and restored then during the following 2 years. My other car for daily use is a 1988
Daimler Double Six which I bought just recently. Both cars do as fine as Jags do. I am rather
new to the clubs. I would be interested in any gatherings and rallies which take place in
Switzerland or nearby.
From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 1996 10:27:15 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: XJ6 vapor lock.
Will begs the british-cars list…
{I posted a plea the other week about a vapor lock problem in an '87 XJS.
No, you posted a plea about vapor lock on an '87 XJ6. Very different
animals. However, your tenacity has made me feel guilty enough about
not answering your first posting that I’ll share my thoughts on the
subject having also experienced it.
First, for Jag questions, join the jag-lovers mail list. Lots of
experts there and a few real live Professional Jag mechanics too. The
jag-lovers intro is appended below
Second, as your friend suspects, the problem is probably fuel related.
But, don’t rule out the possibility that it may be electrical. In any
case, it’s a distressingly common problem with the fuel injected SIII
XJ6’s. I’ve seen more than one pretty XJ6 parked on the side of a busy
road on a hot day, immobile, with it’s bonnet open and a fuming pilot
pacing the sidewalk. Unfortunately, it’s happened to me^H^Ha friend of
mine more than once, too.
Guess #1:
The reason to suspect that the problem may be fuel related is that, in
their infinite wisdom, the designers of the XJ6 fuel system chose to run
the return line for the petrol thru a fuel cooler on the back of the AC
compressor (they overpressure the incoming fuel, releasing a controlled
amount to the injectors, cycling the remainder back to the gas tank).
This sounds good until you realize that the AC compressor is way over on
the exhaust side of the engine and, to get the fuel from the fuel
injector rail to the fuel cooler, the return fuel line is run around the
hot engine block for a good distance, then continues back to the fuel
tank in close proximity to the hot exhaust pipes. If your AC is not
working (as they tend not to do on these cars), the fuel cooler doesn’t
and you eventually end up with a tank full of very warm petrol, making
you very susceptible to vapor lock. However, I still haven’t figured
out why these cars appear to vapor lock so easily when the fuel pump
operates at such high pressure. Anyway Anne said that she called the
Jag dealer and the parts guy said that there was a technical bulletin
and a $55 fix for this. I’ll try to follow this up further on Monday .
Guess #2:
Your friend’s XJ6 may be suffering from ignition componants which fail
when they get too warm. She’s got a coil sitting up next to the head
where it can get good and toasty and a silver ignition amplifier an inch
away from the hot head, next to the distributor.
The check for whether it’s a fuel or electrical problem is very simple,
but does require some preparation. Have her acquire a spare sparkplug,
a pair of gloves, some vice-grips and, most importantly, a proper
attitude to view her next next vapor lock episode as an opportunity for
brilliant scientific discovery.
Then, when her XJ6 quits on her again, have her put on the gloves, pull
the rearmost sparkplug wire and fit it to her spare sparkplug. Use the
vise-grips to clamp the metal part of the body of the spare sparkplug to
a good grounding point on the car where she can see the electrode of the
spare sparkplug from the driver’s seat of the car (the big bolt where
the two black body stabilizer bars meet at the center-rear of the engine
bay is a good place). Crank the engine and see if there’s a spark at
the electrode of her test sparkplug. If she see’s a spark, then the
problem is fuel. If she’s certain that there’s no spark, then it’s
probably a flaky electrical part.
Then fix as necessary.
/\ Lawrence Buja http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern/
_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
________________Boulder,Colorado___80307-3000
From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 1996 09:05:57 GMT
Subject: 88 XJ-S Spark Plug change
In message 31CAC4E0@dwmsgate.dw.att.com “Himes,John W.” writes:
I have seen many posts
about seized centrifugal advances on the distributor. I do see this in a
parts explosion in a manual for 84 and older. In my manual for my 88, there
is no mention of this. Does the 88 XJ-S V12 have the centrifugal advance,
or is this a different distributor.
No. Different manual. A kind gentleman from Honeywell Oz - the name escapes
me at the moment, but I haven’t forgotten that I promised him a beer in case
he ever makes it to the UK - faxed me the relevant pages from an older
manual and they fit reality in my 88 XJ-S quite nicely.
Remember, that manual went through Jaguar quality assurance. Hah.
Regards,
Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 1996 13:33:44 -0400
Subject: XJ6 SIII Temp & Other Stuff (Mostly Other Stuff)
On my 1939 SS100, you don’t have to worry about any of that stuff as it’s*…
Seriously, it doesn’t bother me AT ALL if people indicate how they deal with
a given problem on their own car that’s different from the original post,
though if they indicated what car & year they were talking about I could
judge a LOT better how, if at all, I could apply some of that info to MY
fleet. Even the reply that sent M. Neal into fits of nattering frenzy would
have been useful to many on the list if it’d specified WHAT car SOMEWHERE.
Not necessarily in the subject (some use various means to track message
threads). Not even necessarily at the start of the message. As part of the
signature even would be good. SOMEWHERE so we DON’T get someone messing up
their car (On the other hand, someone that relies on all posts to this
excellent list as infallible Jaguar gospel probably shouldn’t own a Jag in
the first place - they should be buying a slightly used bridge from me).
By the way, I’ve gotten some info on heat-resistant marking (even ordered a
catalog) that should be applicable to aluminum cam covers (& other metals).
I hope to do some experimental verification & will post the status when
Kirby Palm gets back (since he was the one that originally asked). The XJ40
headlight haze washout experiment turned out to be a washout as the bodyshop
“forgot” to give back the broken light & then couldn’t locate it.
-Steve A.
'39 SS100*
'67 E Type Coupe
'76 XJ6C
'91 XJ6 (talking to another owner, I was dramatically reminded that most
people
look at you like you’re from another planet if you ask them how
they like
their XJ40 - “I have an XJ6, you pond scum!”)
- Imaginary car for illustrative purposes only
From: gprice@Rt66.com (Gregory W. Price)
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 1996 13:32:45 -0600
Subject: 1985 XJ6 VDP Ignition
I heard that you can use a GM ignition amplifier in place of the (much more
expensive) Jag unit. Any truth to this? I also heard something about
modifying the GM unit with a diode? How about the coil pickup? Any help
would be appreciated.
Gregory W. Price & Company, Ltd
Business research and information management
for those who need it most.
1-800-670-5491
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 1996 16:16:17 -0500
Subject: XJ40 – fuses and relays
I just got done fixing a leaky boot … I hope. In the process, and in
fixing my bonnet lights, I have now seen what I think are ‘relays’. Are
these the little box-like connections with names on them?
I see so much talk of them on the list that I will show my ignorance, now
that I know where they are (if this is them), and ask what they do…
Scott Phillips
'88 XJ40
From: Greg Meboe meboe@mont-blanc.scs.wsu.edu
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 1996 16:53:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: XJ-S H.E. Centrifugal Advance
On Fri, 21 Jun 1996, Himes,John W. wrote:
I have seen many posts
about seized centrifugal advances on the distributor. I do see this in a
parts explosion in a manual for 84 and older. In my manual for my 88, there
is no mention of this. Does the 88 XJ-S V12 have the centrifugal advance,
or is this a different distributor.
John,
According to my quickly-fading memory, Jaguar didn’t start putting
the more modern Marelli ignition on the V-12 until sometime in the 1989
model year. So your car should have the older centrifugal and vacuum
type distributor.
Good plug story. Many of us can commiserate with you.
PS, was I talking with you several months ago about purchasing a used
XJ-S stereo?
Greg
Greg Meboe meboe@mont-blanc.scs.wsu.edu
Web site>> http://www.scs.wsu.edu/~meboe
Mechanical Engineer Boeing Payloads Division
'85 XJ-12 H.E. (daily) '67 Spit-6 '74 TR-6
From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@compuserve.com
Date: 22 Jun 96 21:16:23 EDT
Subject: XK120 sidelights
- There was a thread many months ago about whether the red indicator light on
top of XK sidelights had the tall end at the front or at the back. The parts
books indicate the tall end at the front, and I have now got a Lucas catalogue
(dating from 1954) that shows the same. However, I will say that I agree that
at least some Mk IIs seem to have been different (various sources have suggested
that). - Would any XK120 owners please advise what sort of lens they have in their
sidelights. Later cars seem to have been clear glass with lettering stamped
into it, but early cars seem to have varied e.g. some had what looks like a sort
of plastic lens, which I have seen very discoloured (deep yellow) and close to
opaque (not much good for a light), others have had various letters stamped into
them. In many cases, the sidelights on XK120s are not the originals, in my
observastion. I am therefore looking to do a survey!
Regards, John Elmgreen
From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@compuserve.com
Date: 22 Jun 96 21:18:57 EDT
Subject: Copy of: XK120 sidelights
- ---------- Forwarded Message ----------
From: John Elmgreen, 100353,1733
TO: Jag Lovers, internet:jag-lovers@sn.no
DATE: 23-6-96 11:13 AM
RE: Copy of: XK120 sidelights
- There was a thread many months ago about whether the red indicator light on
top of XK sidelights had the tall end at the front or at the back. The parts
books indicate the tall end at the front, and I have now got a Lucas catalogue
(dating from 1954) that shows the same. However, I will say that I agree that
at least some Mk IIs seem to have been different (various sources have suggested
that). - Would any XK120 owners please advise what sort of lens they have in their
sidelights. Later cars seem to have been clear glass with lettering stamped
into it, but early cars seem to have varied e.g. some had what looks like a sort
of plastic lens, which I have seen very discoloured (deep yellow) and close to
opaque (not much good for a light), others have had various letters stamped into
them. In many cases, the sidelights on XK120s are not the originals, in my
observastion. I am therefore looking to do a survey!
Regards, John Elmgreen
From: belmore@ns.netjax.com
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 1996 11:39:04 -0500
Subject: 67 xke - crow engineering
Hi everyone,
Has anyone out there in jag land had any dealing with crow engineering.
I found their ad in Hemmings Motor News.
I want to have my engine’s checked out and rebuilt (brought back to
new life).
They say that they will come to your house and do the engine work right
there. They
told me that it would be between $4000 - $4500 for a backet case job. Like
parts all over the place and engine not running.
I have a 1967 xke coupe and a 1967 xke 2+2 both are 4.2 engines. We
live in
Jacksonville, Illinois.
We are a little unsure about the way these guys are doing business.
The only
way you can reach them is buy leaving a message on an answering machine and
they will
get back to you.
Just wanting to know if anyone has used them or not. With over 700
members,
someone should know about them.
Thanks Bob Elmore
anyone with any 67 Xke please mail me seperate from the list wanting to know
who you
are and were you live. trying to get a list up of 67 xke jag members
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 1996 19:45:47 -0500
Subject: Lets start the Chebby lump thing all over again.
I have been thinking about something and would appreciate some input.
I have a “Chebby”, well not realy, ita a 1985 Cadillac Seville (same company
made it). It is way under powered and I am thinking of putting a Jag IRS
under the rear and a V12 under the hood. Sort of a “Chebby with a Jaguar Lump”.
In the front I see it as fairly easy. Just remove the half shafts and
retain the entire front end. Then hack the chassis as necessary to put the
V12 and TH400 under there, will have to build a transmission hump for sure.
Then in the rear I am sure there will be some cutting in order to get the
thing to sit low enough.
Ok, now that I have spilled my guts, whats wrong with the idea other than
all the work? The '85 Seville is just a “knock off” of the Daimler limo
anyway, so you can’t say the styling is bad.
Jim
“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 24 Jun 96 12:46:33
Subject: Re: why a Jaguar?
When bragging about one’s own marque, a certain amount of exaggeration will be
permitted. Also, of course, what constitutes a classic is very much a matter of
opinion, but when addressing ignorami (people who can even contemplate a Lexus
over any Jag being automatically thus classified) there is no need to go into
detail.
BMW:
I believe the BMW 328 is an unarguable classic, being the first sports car with
integral wings and in its time a brilliant performer. Then there’s the pretty
one designed by Loewy - I forget the number - in the fifties, which found great
popularity but small sales. I find I have to include the M1 as well - not a
commercial success, not a racing success but remarkably handsome and a great
performer, as well as being noteworthy as BMW’s first attempt at a mid-engine,
even if the design was all Lamborghini’s. Personally, I wouldn’t mind owning a
BMW 700 - I bet you’ll have to search hard for a reference to that one - but
that’s because of personal memories. I road-tested it for a Swedish motor
magazine in the winter of '59 and killed two birds with one snowball by using
it to cover the Swedish Midwinter Rally. It was an eminently chuckable and
light little four-seater coupe (box-on-top-of-box styling) with a BMW motorbike
engine out back, and I was very pleased to arrive at every special stage finish
before the leaders. This was in minus 20deg C with pure hard-packed snow on the
roads and before the days of spiked tyres, so engine performance was not an
issue. I recall the steering geometry moved the whole nose about a foot
sideways when turned lock to lock standing still (the entire swing-arm
suspension turned) - terriffic for parking.
Mercedes:
On second thought I have to include the 540K as well as the 300SL gullwing, and
of course their mid-engined 170V might have become a classic except for the
truly awful swinging arm suspension and gutless engine. Then again, there is
one SSKL unaccounted for (all the others being known to have been scrapped) and
I would hardly mind finding that one at all, at all…
Japan:
I have some respect for the 240Z, having owned a 1973 one since new and had a
lot of fun in it. It could have been developed into a fine GT (not being open,
it can’t be regarded as a sports car in the true sense) with some work on the
suspension geometry and aerodynamics. While it looks a little slabsided by
today’s standards, it did have that very fine Loewy styling. There’s a definite
collector’s market developing for early two-seater Z cars, which is one
indication of de facto classic status. Otherwise, the only Jap car I can
imagine with anything like a following as a classic is the Mazda RX7. Of course
there are lots and lots of very good japanese cars, but they lack that
essential something that sets a classic apart.
From: belmore@ns.netjax.com
Date: Sun, 23 Jun 1996 20:53:13 -0500
Subject: 67 xke
hi all,
there was some talk a little while ago about the right angle gear box on
the end of the speedo cable. I took mine off because my odometer wasn’t working
right. Is the cable piece that sticks out of the end of the right angle gear box
suppose to be attached to the right angle or can you take it out.
Mine, you can take it out of the end of the right angle. and put it
back in
Ididn’t know if I needed to buy another one or not. I can put a drill on the
end of the speedo cable and it moves my odometer, I put the angle on the end
and I can’t get it to work. If I take it apart and move the right angle
piece by it’s self
it turns the other end of the right angle gear box.
Anyone have any ideas on what to try before I have to buy a $120.00
end to the cable.
thanks, Bob
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 24 Jun 96 12:58:05
Subject: Re: Aussie Prices
There are two main factors, Robert, but the leading one is that due to import
regulations, all cars are very expensive here, with the possible exception of
common locals (a basic slushbox six “family car” with comfortable seating for
five and not much else will set you back around $A 25,000 or $US 18,500). The
current Toyota Corolla CSi retails at about that price, too. When the XJ220
was announced, it was quoted at a nice, round $A 2,000,000 .
The other factor is that as long as you live a few km away from the coast,
there is little or no rust, and barring accident damage, bodywork tends to
last, enhancing the value of really old cars. My 19-year-old XJC has no rust at
all except severe pitting of the passenger-side floor where an unnoticed water
leak kept the carpet wet for a while.
-
- Jan
From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 05:36:39 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: [SIII XJ6) Cold start injector disconnected. Why?
On my '86 SIII XJ6 4.2 the PO has disconnected the fuel hose from the
fuel rail to the cold start injector and simply plugged it with a large
bolt. What could be the motivation for doing this? If the injector is
faulty, is it very expensive to replace?
I noticed this while tightening a fan belt this afternoon. Thought I
could smell gasoline/petrol and found a steady flow from the
not-so-plugged-after-all hose. Guess I was lucky it didn’t catch fire…
Gunnar
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar XJ6 4.2 Sovereign
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | Vicki who? What .sig virus?
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 24 Jun 96 17:56:59
Subject: Re: [SIII XJ6) Cold start injector disconnected. Why?
Why did the PO disconnect the cold start injector? Who knows what makes PO’s
tick!
Here’s a simple way to test the cold start injector: Take it out of the
manifold and hook it up to the fuel hose but leave it disconnected
electrically. Turn on the ignition two-three times to run the fuel pump and
work up some pressure. Observe the injector for a minute or two, to see if it
squirts or dribbles (stand by with a rag or hang it into a bottle). If it
does, it needs to be replaced. If it doesn’t, check the electrical operation.
Plug in the normal connector and turn on the ignition; if the engine is dead
cold, the injector should squirt for a second or two at this stage - at least,
that’s what the K-Jetronic on my S2 V12 does. Your system may require cranking,
for all I know.
If there’s no result, either the injector or the wiring (or, unlikely, the ECU)
could be faulty. If so, test the injector with 12V via test leads from the
battery.
I have mixed feelings about the cold start injector, anyway - it’s a very
primitive method to enrich the mixture for cold starting. Modern systems do it
by increasing the injection time of the normal injectors.
-
- Jan
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #165
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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 24 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 166
RE: [SIII XJ6) Cold start injector disconnected. Why?
Fuel pump on XJ6
Re: why a Jaguar? (No Jag content)
S-Tupe Steering, Autobox
Re: [SIII XJ6) Cold start injector disconnected. Why?
1985 XJ6 - chirping noises
XJ40 Mud Traps
Re: XJ6 vapor lock.
Re: 1985 XJ6 - chirping noises
Why a jag
['92 XJ40] Should I “chip” my Jag ???
83 XJ6 Steering Rack Bushings
RE: Bargain XJS Purchase
Re: Labour Tax shock
Re: Spark Plug change 88 XJ-S
RE: XJ40 Idle too high intermittantly
'88 XJ-S front wheelbearings
Re: Lets start the Chebby lump thing all over again.
Re: Lets start the Chebby lump thing all over again.
Oddie studs
From: “Roger langley” lang0080@gold.tc.umn.edu
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 01:50:52
Subject: RE: [SIII XJ6) Cold start injector disconnected. Why?
The dealer suggested doing this on my old XJ12 to stop floodng during very hot
waether (90 degrees F or higher).
Roger Langley
lang0080@gold.tc.umn.edu
612-771-0806
University of Minnesota
St. Paul, Minnesota, USA
From: “Mnr Jacques Watson” GNFMJFW@frm.uovs.ac.za
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 09:13:44 GMT2
Subject: Fuel pump on XJ6
Hi all Jag-lovers
In the last week or so we have had quite a discussion on why the XJ6
have 2 fuel tanks. Well, I would not be able to give any usefull
input on that topic, but I am glad there are 2 tanks because that
implies 2 fuel pumps as well. And allthough this also may sound
redundant, it sure comes in handy when one of them is on the brink.
This was indeed the case when I wanted to go home from work on Friday
afternoon with my 75 XJ6L S2. I could get the car to start, it would
rev to about 3500 and die. This I repeated over and over without
getting the car to go. Disgusted I went home (got a lift) and drank
to much beer. Next day I called my mechanic. His response : “Sounds
like the fuel pump. Switch to the other tank and make an apointment
with me next week to get the pump fixed.”
Bingo! I went back to the car, put in 5 liters of fuel in the other
tank (which was empty) and went home. This makes me look rather
stupid on two accounts. Firstly, it is only the third time that the
Jag had to overnight at my work because she doesn’t wants to go.
Secondly, several of my collegues gathered around the car to “help”
(with very snide comments) and the solution boils down to switching
to the other tank.
So, Watson’s theory as to why there are 2 fuel tanks : The Jaguar
engineers of the 70’s realised that in the 90’s young overly
enthusiastic younsters will still fall in love with Jaguars to the
extend that they will buy badly maintained Jaguars, in which case 2
XXX (substitute fuel tanks, fuel pumps etc.) are better than one.
Regards
Jacques Watson (gnfmjfw@frm.uovs.ac.za)
1975 XJ6L (now running again)
Frequently heard comments on my Jag : “Jacques, your Jag must have a
beautiful engine, because every now and then your bonnet is open and you
and a mechanic are looking at it”
From: “Roger langley” lang0080@gold.tc.umn.edu
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 02:12:54
Subject: Re: why a Jaguar? (No Jag content)
I would consider the BMW 63x series to be classics or their styling. This
seemed to be a very un-teutonic car visually.
The first Honda CRX Si series deserve to be part of the automotive heritage.
They were very taut, fast and durable; very much more of a driver’s car than
the soft Miata. The early Celica GTs were very similar.
The Jag seems to have a peculiar effect on the owner! In nine years of reading
the “Thrifties” want ads (where cars under $2,500 are listed), I have never
seen a Jaguar listed. Many BMW’s, Mercedes and Alfa’s are listed but never a
Jag. This suggests a sense of owner symbiosis with the car that makes even the
most clapped out model to be too good for the “thrifty” world
Roger Langley
lang0080@gold.tc.umn.edu
612-771-0806
University of Minnesota
St. Paul, Minnesota, USA
From: “Alastar W. Lauener” bu08@central.napier.ac.uk
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 09:27:03 +0100
Subject: S-Tupe Steering, Autobox
Jim, you said about your S-Type surgery
is about to receive major surgery this
summer… New late model GM transmission to replace the gone to heaven
BW DG250 unit, plus a new power rack and pinion kit
Glad to here you aim to get the car going again.
Alastair Reynolds has done the steering conversion on his S-Type,
the kit he fitted himself was the vicarage kit, obtained here from
SNG Barrats.
The full story is at nick’s place
http://www.sn.no/home/nick/jecglasgow/steer.htm, including pictures.
As for the autobox, well, mine still works!
- Alastair Lauener Work Phone +44 131 455 2458 *
- Chief Technician Fax +44 131 455 2267 *
- Department of Building & Surveying Home Phone +44 1577 864242 *
- Napier University, Edinburgh EH10 5DT a.lauener@central.napier.ac.uk *
- 1964 3.4 S-Type story at http://www.sn.no/home/nick/alas.html *
From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 11:33:21 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: [SIII XJ6) Cold start injector disconnected. Why?
On 24 Jun 1996, Jan Wikstroem wrote:
I have mixed feelings about the cold start injector, anyway - it’s a very
primitive method to enrich the mixture for cold starting. Modern
systems do it by increasing the injection time of the normal injectors.
Thanks, Jan.
As far as I know (but don’t quote me on this the L-Jetronic system on
my Series III does increase (or widen or whatever) the pulse to the
injectors as well as use the cold start injector. I can’t verify this
right now because I haven’t got the manual handy.
Anyway, the car starts even when cold, the only symptom I have of
something missing is the fact that I normally have to crank it a while
before the engine fires if it’s really cold. If it’s warm it fires right
away.
Thanks for the tips on checking the injector, I’ll get right to it this
evening.
Gunnar
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar XJ6 4.2 Sovereign
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | Vicki who? What .sig virus?
From: David Wood David.Wood@durham.ac.uk
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 11:05:08 PDT
Subject: 1985 XJ6 - chirping noises
Dear all,
Model ID: 1985 SIII XJ6 3.4 (with BW66 gearbox, which may be relevant) - right
hand drive (relationship to hearing noises below)
Strange noises time. One of those intermittent things that may be a real pig to
identify.
It sounds like a couple of young nightingales having singing lessons - a kind of
high pitched, irregular chirping. Worst of all, it is intermittent. Trying to identify it
when driving along, all I can report are these symptoms:
(i) no noise when stationary - starts almost as soon as on the move,
(ii) with the windows down, I can hear it out of both sides. It sounds louder out of
the left, but this may be because this side is picking up echos from walls,
hedgerows and the like,
(iii) I can also hear it with the windows up,
(iv) there is no relationship with road speed - no change in pitch, volume or pattern,
which is irregular anyway,
(v) no relationship with road bumps,
(vi) the noise is apparent when the car is hot or cold - again no relationship,
(vii) I took off all road wheels last night and visually inspected the
hub/brake/suspension systems - nothing obviously amiss, except for a largely
disintegrated dust cover on the upper left side front ball joint.
What is this noise? I tend not to suspect anything associated with the wheel area,
because any grinding/catching of materials should have a regular beat to it (??)
Only by a process of elimination, rather than suspicion, do I think it may be the
gearbox. Though what part of it I haven’t a clue. In the 'box’s defence:
(i) the oil level is full, and the colour good,
(ii) the gear changes up and down are perfect,
(iii) selection is not a problem.
So, to conclude this rather lengthy post: has anyone noticed this chirping before?
What is it? Is it something terminal, or just annoying? How can it be fixed?
Just to add further frustration, it didn’t make a sound on driving in today…
Cheers,
Dave Wood.
From: Mark Stiles ittmjs@staffs.ac.uk
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 11:13:14 +0100
Subject: XJ40 Mud Traps
This weekend, I duitifully set about cleaning my recently acquired
Daimler(XJ40) 4.0. As part of the activity I removed a large
quantity of dried soil etc from the inside of the lips around the wheel
arches (why don’t car owners ever seen to do this?) - there is no
evidence of even incipient tin worm, so all is well. Question: Are
there other less obvious/hidden mud traps on this model (previous Jag
was SII XJ6) I should pay attention to?
Mark
Mark Stiles - Academic Development Manager
IT Services
Staffordshire University
01785 353410
From: David Wood David.Wood@durham.ac.uk
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 11:41:13 PDT
Subject: Re: XJ6 vapor lock.
On Sat, 22 Jun 1996 10:27:15 -0600 (MDT) Lawrence Buja wrote:
The reason to suspect that the problem may be fuel related is that, in
their infinite wisdom, the designers of the XJ6 fuel system chose to run
the return line for the petrol thru a fuel cooler on the back of the AC
compressor (they overpressure the incoming fuel, releasing a controlled
amount to the injectors, cycling the remainder back to the gas tank).
This sounds good until you realize that the AC compressor is way over on
the exhaust side of the engine and, to get the fuel from the fuel
injector rail to the fuel cooler, the return fuel line is run around the
hot engine block for a good distance, then continues back to the fuel
tank in close proximity to the hot exhaust pipes. If your AC is not
working (as they tend not to do on these cars), the fuel cooler doesn’t
and you eventually end up with a tank full of very warm petrol, making
you very susceptible to vapor lock.
Lawrence,
Just as a point of interest, as it doesn’t affect my 3.4 carb powered XJ6, many
British 4.2 injections don’t have A/C - it was only standard in the Sovereign spec.
How were these cars designed to cool the fuel on its return?
Cheers,
Dave Wood.
From: Dan Welchman Dan.Welchman@Smallworld.co.uk
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 96 11:42:25 BST
Subject: Re: 1985 XJ6 - chirping noises
David Wood writes:-
…Strange noises time.
It sounds like a couple of young nightingales having singing lessons -]
etc etc.
Well, when my 85 SIII 4.2 XJ6 Sov started “chirping” like this it turned
out just to be a slightly slack power-steering belt.
I hope that’s your problem because it’s easy (and free!) to check and
rectify.
…something to check before spending any money anyway.
Dan.
P.S. …better check the alternator drive belt tension too while you’ve
got the bonnet open.
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 07:27:51 -0500
Subject: Why a jag
I think the difference is that when you see a Merc, BMW, or Lexus on the
road all anyone does is look at the car, BUT when you see a Jaguar, people
always look at the car, but also look to see WHO’S Driving!!!
Scott Phillips
'88 XJ40
From: Graham Watson grahamw@microsoft.com
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 05:49:34 -0700
Subject: ['92 XJ40] Should I “chip” my Jag ???
I’m thinking of replacing the ECU in my '92 XJ40 3.2, to try and get
some more mid-range power out of it.
There seem to be two ways to do this - either give “Superchips” some
money, or give AJ6 Engineering some money. Does anybody have any opinion
as to :-
Is either of these two companies better ?
Is there another company I should be talking to ?
What sort of difference might it make ?
Is there a better way to improve mid-range performance, other than a
V12 ?
Many Thanks
Graham Watson
From: chatmans@ext.missouri.edu
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 96 08:15:39 cdt
Subject: 83 XJ6 Steering Rack Bushings
Mine need to be replaced, and I am hoping for some elementary
instruction. I've tried Haynes and the Jag-lovers archive but
neither had as much detail as I seem to need. I have learned that
the after-market bushings are widely preferred and will have a much
longer life. I've also learned that stuck bushings can be removed by
using a combination of 5/16ths threaded rod and two sockets, one that
fits the inside of the housing and one just large enough for the old
bushing to slide into (Kirby Palm, Oct, 1995). I've also learned that
it's not too bad a job and takes a first-timer about a morning. Could
someone please offer a walk-through of sequence and hints? For
example, do I need to disconnect the ball joints? Do they need to be
driven out? Should they be disconnected before the bushing bolts? How
much fluid will drain out? Et cetera, et cetera. I understand that
this is a common problem and mine certainly are bad. In fact, they're
basically gone. Much TIA as always. Steve Chatman, Columbia, Missouri.
From: Dennis Murphy elgparts@xnet.com
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 08:29:50 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: RE: Bargain XJS Purchase
Gerald,
I agree with Roger Peng - Spend a few thousand more and get a good one. They
are out there. The resale value on the S is not as strong as we would like
so getting your money back out of a total rebuild is highly unlikely. By the
same token, that works to your advantage when you are buying, good cars with
relatively low mileage are available, you just have to look for them.
A little over a year ago I sold a nice running '85 HE for $6,000. It needed
paint, but that was really all. It was mechanically sound (as I told one
potential purchaser I would have had no qualms about getting in that car and
driving it Texas the next day) and hand no rust at all - just faded and
cracked paint.
The moral is - keep loking and buy the best you can afford.
Good Luck.
Dennis Murphy
Geneva, IL
1952 XK120
1990 XJ-S
From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 10:10:07 GMT
Subject: Re: Labour Tax shock
In message 960620182606_100705.3012_EHU60-1@CompuServe.COM Alan Akeister writes:
[about the labour party intending to introduce a gas guzzler tax]
Any one want to buy a 1.0 Litre engine for their Jag?
No, but I’ll get a bumper sticker that says “Capitalist and proud of it”.
Yet another kind of envy we Jag-Lovers will have to cope with.
Regards.
Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 09:46:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Spark Plug change 88 XJ-S
Snap On sells a plug wrench mounted on a 3/8" drive extension with
a ball-socket universal joint. (around $30) It works very well but I still
usually remove the A/C to make sure the wires can be properly removed
and replaced.
Thomas E. Alberts
1987 XJ-S
I have found that the stock Jag spark plug wrench from the tool kit will
remove the front plugs OK, without removing the compressor. This was on
an 82 XJ-S HE.On Fri, 21 Jun 1996, Himes,John W. wrote:
I finally got around to changing the plugs on my 88 XJ-S. What a pain in
the (!)…
At first I tried to remove the front plugs w/o removing the A/C compressor.
I do have a small spark plug socket that would fit, but when the plus is
about 1/2 screwed out, the socked was against the compressor. Removing the
compressor was not as bad as I thought, just remove 4 bolts and prop it out
of the way.
From: “K.D.Fox” kfox@dial.pipex.com
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 09:06:55 +0100
Subject: RE: XJ40 Idle too high intermittantly
Please help me with a very infuriating problem with my 88 3.6 Sovereign.
The idle is sometimes too high, 1100rpm when stopping, dropping slowly to
750ish when stopped, immediately 1100 when the accelerator is touched.
I know nothing about XJ40’s, but I had the same problem on my 85 XJS and
the
problem was simply that a small leak in the cruise control vacuum solenoid
allowed a small vacuum to the diaphram when the enging was running, and
operated the accelerator.
This may not be the cause of your problem but if is, it is relatively
simple
to to fix by replacing the cruise control vacuum solenoid.
Also check that there is sufficient slack in the cruise control operating
mechanism.
Thanks for the help. the problem was the cruise control linkage which was
holding the throttle slightly open. The linkage adjustment bolt had been
tightened up so tight that it would only settle in the same place due to
indented metal. The solution was to remove the cruise control solenoid and
fit a washer between the solenoid and the bracket.
The problem was made worse by the cruise control solenoid shrinking
slightly when hot / heat soaked I think. This slight opening was seen by
the engine management that opened the air bypass valve slightly thinking
that the throttle was open.
Thanks once again the car is transformed.
Kevin Fox
From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 11:40:47 GMT
Subject: '88 XJ-S front wheelbearings
The front wheelbearings on my '88 XJ-S are noisy. Again. So, next weekend
I’ll fit new ones. Since I’m not the proud owner of a dial gauge, I’ll
have to set endplay by the tighten-until-restricted-then-back-off-one-flat
method.
To make sure that goes right, can anyone tell me:
-
With the wheels back on, should there be any noticeable play if I rock
the wheels top to bottom ? -
What is likely to have caused roughness of the bearings after only one
year / 12,000 miles of operation ? Obviously, if the shop that fitted them
made a mistake resulting in the damage, I’m not keen on repeating that.
Hint: The rollers of the outer bearings (didn’t take them further apart
while diagnosing) have a very slight rust-coloured tint around the middle. -
The Quinton Hazell rebuild kits I bought come with a plastic-and-wire
grease seal. Does that sound right ? I’m halfway expecting the plastic to
deteriorate rapidly due to heat from the brake disks. -
On a similar note, the rebuild kits include a small sachet of grease.
Should I use that or Castrol LM ?
Regards,
Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
From: nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu (Nikolai Chitaev)
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 09:54:07 -0600
Subject: Re: Lets start the Chebby lump thing all over again.
I have been thinking about something and would appreciate some input.
I have a “Chebby”, well not realy, ita a 1985 Cadillac Seville (same company
made it). It is way under powered and I am thinking of putting a Jag IRS
under the rear and a V12 under the hood. Sort of a “Chebby with a Jaguar
Lump”.In the front I see it as fairly easy. Just remove the half shafts and
retain the entire front end. Then hack the chassis as necessary to put the
V12 and TH400 under there, will have to build a transmission hump for sure.
Then in the rear I am sure there will be some cutting in order to get the
thing to sit low enough.Ok, now that I have spilled my guts, whats wrong with the idea other than
all the work? The '85 Seville is just a “knock off” of the Daimler limo
anyway, so you can’t say the styling is bad.
Jim, why not to buy, a Jag shell (XJ6 or XJS), and generate a one more
“nice” car for the road?
Nikolai A. Chitaev, PhD.
<<87`XJ6 4.2L, EFI, BRG>>
{nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu}
{http://128.252.119.253}
St.Louis, Missouri, USA
From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 09:11:01 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Re: Lets start the Chebby lump thing all over again.
{Ok, now that I have spilled my guts, whats wrong with the idea other than
{all the work? The '85 Seville is just a “knock off” of the Daimler limo
{anyway, so you can’t say the styling is bad.
Jim,
This is a baaaaaaaaad idea for a number of reasons.
-
Those Daimler limos are hard to look at, too. So reason #1 is that
you still have to look at that '85 Seville everyday. -
You will never be able to sell the mutant car.
-
Good luck insuring it. Given the current litigatious nature of our
country, if you are driving around a car which you have made even minor
modifications to the body/suspension/weight-distribution, I feel that
you are leaving yourself extremely exposed to a serious lawsuit if
that car ever gets in an accident, even after you no longer own it. My
survivers have been given explicit instructions to avenge me financially
should I ever get smooshed by one of those unstable monster trucks. It
doesn’t take much imagination to see how the cross-examination would go:
Lawyer: Did you make these aforementioned modifications to what
was once a safe vehicle?
Poor schmuck: Yes, it made it go really fast and look really cool too.
Lawyer: Did your modified car pass all required Federal safety
and crash tests?
Poor schmuck: What tests?
Lawyer: Are you a certified engineer of either vehicle dynamics
or design?
Poor schmuck: No, but I’ve worked on cars alot and know how to weld.
Judge: I award the plaintiff 1 bazillion dollars based on
gross negligence and blah blah blah…
The answer is simple. Either restore the Seville properly or sell it,
buy another Jag and put all the time and effort which you were going to
invest in kludging up that mutant car into building a great Jaguar.
You’ve already paid your dues with all the work you’ve done on your
current Jag, might as well cash in on it.
/\ Lawrence Buja http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern/
_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
________________Boulder,Colorado___80307-3000
From: MPlechaty@gnn.com (Mike Plechaty)
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 08:07:15
Subject: Oddie studs
I just received a flyer from British Auto/USA. They have available
Oddie studs in 3 sizes for various interior applications on XK’s &
some Mk’s.
Mike Plechaty
“Plus ca change, plus c’est
la meme chose” - A. Karr
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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 25 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 167
Plug Change & Centrifugal advance & Thanks & Cruise Bellows
Re: why a Jaguar?
1979 SJ6 II - RPM at idle
RE: XJ40 Mud Traps
Re: Spark Plug change 88 XJ-S
Boot boy (Mk1 Update)
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #166
Re: Spark Plug change 88 XJ-S
Re: Spark Plug change 88 XJ-S
'85 XJS Symptoms…?
WEB PAGES
re: Fuel pump on XJ6
Australian Auction Prices
wire wheels…close call!!!
Re: Cruise Bellows
Travel Gadgets, Welsh BW66 & Caution about a Shady Firm
'88 XJ40 Front Shocks
xke list
From: “Himes,John W.” jwh@dw.att.com
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 96 09:12:00 PDT
Subject: Plug Change & Centrifugal advance & Thanks & Cruise Bellows
Just wanted to thank the several people who responded to me either directly
or through the list about what I saw as conflicting Jaguar manuals on my 88
XJ-S centrifugal advance. After changing the plugs, the performance has
improved a little, or at least enough to notice. The car is running a
little hotter now. Guess I need to tear into the distributor and check the
advance mechanism. It was hard to believe how far out of gap the previous
plugs were. They were between .040 - 050 with the specs at .025.
Last week when I did this work and removed the cruise control bellows, I am
pretty sure why the cruise control does not work After disconnecting the
vacuum line, squeezed the bellows, placed my finger on the hole, released
the bellows and they fully expanded. The rubber is not sealing at all
against the metal plates. I need to re-read the trouble shooting guide in
the web site, but in short is it OK to just to seal the metal plates and
rubber with some silicone sealant to make it air tight. This is not where
the bellows flex, just where the surround the metal plates.
Also to Greg Meboe, if you did not get my mail, I do still have the stock
radio if still interested. Just have not thought of a $ yet. Maybe a few
thousand? Just kidding
John Himes
88 XJ-S 94K miles
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 11:21:21 -0400
Subject: Re: why a Jaguar?
At 12:46 PM 6/24/96, you wrote:
Then there’s the pretty
one designed by Loewy - I forget the number - in the fifties, which found
great
popularity but small sales.
The one you are thinking of is the BMW 507, with body by Pinninfarina.
Raymond Loewy is best known for his Studebaker designs, including the
President, Avanti and Starlight models. I don’t believe he had much to do
with non-USA designs.
Japan:
I would add the third generation Toyota Supra. It has a lot of neat
features, including monocoque construction with separate front and rear
subframes, powerful inline 6 cylinder engine, aluminum DOHC head, 2+2
styling, long hood/hatchback rear, a string of indistiguishable rocker
switches on the dash panel, occasional overheating problems… say, it
sounds like… yes…it is…a knock-off XKE. Hmmmmmm.
Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
1966 Plymouth Barracuda
1988 Toyota Supra
1995 Saab 900
From: new.acc@sasknet.sk.ca (Michael McGuire)
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 10:32:45 -0600
Subject: 1979 SJ6 II - RPM at idle
What is an ideal rpm at idle? Is a slight intermittent tremble at stop signs
common for this model? I think it’s the first fuel injection model,(and the
last SII?)
From: “K.D.Fox” kfox@dial.pipex.com
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 15:03:44 +0100
Subject: RE: XJ40 Mud Traps
This weekend, I duitifully set about cleaning my recently acquired
Daimler(XJ40) 4.0. As part of the activity I removed a large
quantity of dried soil etc from the inside of the lips around the wheel
arches (why don’t car owners ever seen to do this?) - there is no
evidence of even incipient tin worm, so all is well. Question: Are
there other less obvious/hidden mud traps on this model (previous Jag
was SII XJ6) I should pay attention to?
Mark
Mark Stiles - Academic Development Manager
IT Services
Staffordshire University
01785 353410
I suggest removing the front inner wheelarch liners, I found enough soil to
fill a large plantpot on my '88 XJ40!! Also keep an eye on the lip where
the boot opening button is located, my boot rusted through here. Also front
of bonnet at left and right seams is a trouble spot.
Hope this helps
Kevin Fox
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 09:37:35 -0700
Subject: Re: Spark Plug change 88 XJ-S
Why don’t we all just get the “May” socket that Jaguar sells for
removing the front sparkplugs.
Thomas Alberts wrote:
Snap On sells a plug wrench mounted on a 3/8" drive extension with
a ball-socket universal joint. (around $30) It works very well but I still
usually remove the A/C to make sure the wires can be properly removed
and replaced.Thomas E. Alberts
1987 XJ-SI have found that the stock Jag spark plug wrench from the tool kit will
remove the front plugs OK, without removing the compressor. This was on
an 82 XJ-S HE.On Fri, 21 Jun 1996, Himes,John W. wrote:
I finally got around to changing the plugs on my 88 XJ-S. What a pain in
the (!)…
At first I tried to remove the front plugs w/o removing the A/C compressor.
I do have a small spark plug socket that would fit, but when the plus is
about 1/2 screwed out, the socked was against the compressor. Removing the
compressor was not as bad as I thought, just remove 4 bolts and prop it out
of the way.
From: Ryan Border rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 11:08:25 -0700
Subject: Boot boy (Mk1 Update)
This weekends project was refinishing the interior of the boot. The process
I’ve been using is to chemically strip/scrape the old paint, hammer out any
dents, use a “Miracle” ant-rust paint (like POR-15) as a primer/filler,
do some light sanding, and then shoot a color coat of flat black “Rustoleum”
as the finish, using a detail (about 1/2 size) paint gun.
All has gone well, except for the underside of spare tire cover, where I’m
having trouble stripping the paint… The paint there appears to be original
factory paint, and there are lots of nooks and cranny’s around the welded
structure that gives the cover its rigidity. Repeated applications of Jasco
paint stripper have not been successfull. A heat gun was not successfull.
Boiling Jasco on top of the paint with the heat gun was not successfull.
That’s some tough paint! I’ll try a different chemical stripper next, and as
a last resort I guess I could always solvent boil the thing. At this point,
it’s become a test of will :-).
Also last week I asked about ways to accomodate a wider spare tire in the
stock well. I got 3 different suggestions from the list:
a) Cut out the well, add a ~2" ring of metal and weld the well back on.
The “right” way to do it, for sure, but more of a project than I
was willing to take on now.
b) Just deflate the tire.
Doh! why didn’t I think of that. I tried it, but even deflated,
the cover still just sat up on top of the 205 65R15 radial. The
sidewalls are stiff on these tires, and deflating didn’t actually
help very much.
c) Build up the whole floor with wood, deepening the well by effectively
raising the lip.
After discovering that deflating the tire didn’t solve my problem,
I figured a combination of deflating and slightly building up the
floor would do the trick.
So, I spent most of Sunday morning in the driveway with 3/4" plywood, a
jigsaw, cardboard (making test-fit templates) and my router (routed a new lip
for the lid to sit on). Turns out the inflated tire now even fits so,
I don’t have to buy a compressor to carry around.
Already, the boot looks %100 better. Frankly it was kind of embarassing
before, with rust, dents, flaking paint, multi-colored filler, etc. The
addition of carpet and a side panel to cover the fuel pump is all that’s
left to do back there… well, that and re-finishing the tire cover.
I also trashed my wire wheel wrench :-(. The alignment shop appears
to have hired a gorilla to re-install my front knock-offs. I was trying
to remove the front wheels to do some brake bleeding. I had my wife
stand on the brakes and hold the steering wheel steady so the wheel wouldn’t
move and gave a good heave on the wrench. I felt the knock-off give a bit
and so really pulled on it… it wasn’t the knock-off I felt give. The
wrench was now pretzeled around my knock-off and it took quite an effort to
bend it back straight enough that I could get it off. Bled the front brakes
with the wheels on and resolved myself to waiting for the delivery of the
lead hammer. XK’s says they’ll ship me a new one if I promise not to
crank on it so hard. Too much weightlifting I guess…
Have a good one-
Ryan.
From: Syber420@aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 14:54:51 -0400
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #166
In a message dated 96-06-24 14:06:17 EDT, @owner-jag-lovers-di1
writes:
Re: My 1988 XJS Roadster (Hess & Eisenhardt conversion)
This model has working rear windows installed in the conversion. The Left
rear window failed and I was told that a motor replacement was required which
would require disassembly of the body. Luckily, a persistent mechanic found a
relay in the trunk which controls window operation. The connections were
loose. Problem solved. Thanks to Don’s Jags in Flemington, N.J. (George is
owner and mechanic) Hope this helps others.
From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 15:08:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Spark Plug change 88 XJ-S
Huh? Ummm… Michael, if you are serious could you please elaborate
for those of us that have no idea of what you are talking about?
Michael Neal writes:
Why don’t we all just get the “May” socket that Jaguar sells for
removing the front sparkplugs.Thomas Alberts wrote:
Snap On sells a plug wrench mounted on a 3/8" drive extension with
a ball-socket universal joint. (around $30) It works very well but I still
usually remove the A/C to make sure the wires can be properly removed
and replaced.Thomas E. Alberts
1987 XJ-S
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 11:45:10 -0700
Subject: Re: Spark Plug change 88 XJ-S
The socket I have has stamped in it VLC 18G1364. The second part
looks like a Jaguar tool part number. I also made a custome tool that
takes the plug out to the last two threads, but that I may have to
patent before I show anyone.
Thomas Alberts wrote:
Huh? Ummm… Michael, if you are serious could you please elaborate
for those of us that have no idea of what you are talking about?Michael Neal writes:
Why don’t we all just get the “May” socket that Jaguar sells for
removing the front sparkplugs.Thomas Alberts wrote:
Snap On sells a plug wrench mounted on a 3/8" drive extension with
a ball-socket universal joint. (around $30) It works very well but I still
usually remove the A/C to make sure the wires can be properly removed
and replaced.Thomas E. Alberts
1987 XJ-S
From: blender@ix.netcom.com (David A. Blender)
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 12:57:53 -0700
Subject: '85 XJS Symptoms…?
Hello Everyone:
A few weeks ago I requested some assistance on this same vehicle as it
had blown up a sparkplug. Thank you all who responded with your ideas,
suggestions and assistance. All taken care of…and Champion Spark Plug
Company has by now a nice informative letter sitting before their legal
department…I would guess.
On this latest of malfunctions…here are the issues and such.
My jag has been somewhat, shall we say…challenging. This latest go
round is that it had been overheating in our 102 degree Texas heat.
The car has new thermostats, recored radiator, new hoses and belts, new
sparkplugs, timing chain, waterpump, new headgaskets, resurfaced
valves… cooling fan, heater core, heater valve, and the list goes on,
etc… All of the obvious is fixed or new. The overheating became
severe…To the point of having to stop and letting it cool while
watching large amounts of coolant blow through the overflow. I
diagnosed a misaligned distributor…resulting from the PO. Now
fixed…the power of the V12 is fantastic and the temperature now
operates closer to normal ranges.
However, as the vehicle heats up from cold…the power is somewhat
affected…it operates great when cold or cool…as the day wears on the
and the engine temperature is at or slightly above “N”, the power
decreases somewhat…also accompanied by an occasional ping or two upon
acceleration. What is this? Do I need to set the advance mechanism to
compensate for this ping and warming of the engine? ALSO, as the car
is driven at higher and higher speeds over extended periods…the
temperature indicator will level off in the middle between the “N” and
“H” indicators. As the car is slowed (45-55 MPH) it will cool down to
the “N” range again.
- When warm or hot the idle seems to adjust itself downward. It
actually will slow to 300-400 RPM for a while before it quits. In
stop-and-go traffic…the car will die upon acceleration (from a stop
only) or during extended idling periods. What causes this…? Could
this all be related? When the engine is cooler…the idle even with
the A/C is fine. I have adjusted the idle on several different
ocassions…so what to do…??
Any assistance or suggestions is much appreciated in advance…
This problem just puzzles me…as I have done all that I know how to do
to correct the problem…
Many thanks…
David A. Blender
1985 Jaguar XJS H.E.
From: TezFair@aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 18:36:51 -0400
Subject: WEB PAGES
Hi lovers of our cars,
Just to let you know that my Ford web page is up and running.
I know there are a number of you who work for Ford, and I would appreciate
any contibution from you. This being in the form of ‘what you do for Ford’.
Also, we are expecting another baby in Febuary, so our little production line
is in full swing as well as the XK8’s.
Terry Fairbrother
From: pbrown@sbnsw.com.au
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 96 18:40:22 ���
Subject: re: Fuel pump on XJ6
Jacques,
I haven’t had this happen on my S2 yet, but I think that leaving a tank empty
may predispose it to rust.
Perhaps other owners have encountered this.
I generally cycle the tanks, filling each alternately and leaving about a 1/4
tank in the ‘unfilled’ one.
Also, if I am deliberately running a tank dry (to test fuel economy - or
rather fuel consumption ) I test the other tank before it’s completely dry
-
- just in case that side has gone on the fritz since I last used it and to
prime up some pressure for a smooth transition.
Trying to explain all this to my girlfriend was too much - still hasn’t read
the manual :-(!
Regards
Peter Brown
- just in case that side has gone on the fritz since I last used it and to
P.S. The expression ‘too much beer’ does not compute.
“Mnr Jacques Watson” GNFMJFW@frm.uovs.ac.za Wrote:
|
| Hi all Jag-lovers
|
| In the last week or so we have had quite a discussion on
| why the XJ6
| have 2 fuel tanks. Well, I would not be able to give any
| useful
| input on that topic, but I am glad there are 2 tanks
| because that
| implies 2 fuel pumps as well. And although this also may
| sound
| redundant, it sure comes in handy when one of them is on
| the brink.
|
| This was indeed the case when I wanted to go home from
| work on Friday
| afternoon with my 75 XJ6L S2. I could get the car to
| start, it would
| rev to about 3500 and die. This I repeated over and over
| without
| getting the car to go. Disgusted I went home (got a lift)
| and drank
| to much beer. Next day I called my mechanic. His
| response : “Sounds
| like the fuel pump. Switch to the other tank and make an
| appointment
| with me next week to get the pump fixed.”
|
| Bingo! I went back to the car, put in 5 liters of fuel in
| the other
| tank (which was empty) and went home. This makes me look
| rather
| stupid on two accounts. Firstly, it is only the third
| time that the
| Jag had to overnight at my work because she doesn’t wants
| to go.
| Secondly, several of my colleagues gathered around the car
| to “help”
| (with very snide comments) and the solution boils down to
| switching
| to the other tank.
|
| So, Watson’s theory as to why there are 2 fuel tanks : The
| Jaguar
| engineers of the 70’s realised that in the 90’s young
| overly
| enthusiastic youngsters will still fall in love with
| Jaguars to the
| extend that they will buy badly maintained Jaguars, in
| which case 2
| XXX (substitute fuel tanks, fuel pumps etc.) are better
| than one.
|
| Regards
|
| Jacques Watson (gnfmjfw@frm.uovs.ac.za)
| 1975 XJ6L (now running again)
| Frequently heard comments on my Jag : “Jacques, your Jag
| must have a
| beautiful engine, because every now and then your bonnet
| is open and you
| and a mechanic are looking at it”
|
From: Peter Rebbechi <"REBBECHI PETER"@A1.MEOC02.SNO.mts.dec.com>
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 23:19:00 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: Australian Auction Prices
Shannons have 6 Auctions of Classic, Vintage, and Unique cars a year.
Last night they had their June Auction, and the following Jaguar prices were recorded. Many other cars were auctioned (63 in total). I will not mention these for brevity. Some bargains were had, but these were few and far between. I bid for 2 cars, and was soundly beaten by others with bigger pockets. My impression is that generally people paid too much.
1979 SII XJ6 - 13,000 Aust$ SOLD - average condition to good
1958 MK1 - 9,000 Aust$ SOLD - Daily driver not bad condition
1984 XJS - 24,000 Aust$ Passed in - Very good condition
1966 Etype 2+2 Coupe - 19,500 Aust$ SOLD !!! needs some work but daily driver condition. Some rust visible in doors, plenty of oil leaks. Let down by being an import (UK) and an Auto. I would consider this a bargain! Would need up to 20,000 spent to bring back to daily driver cond. Keep counting to get it to VG status!
1988 XJS - 19,500 Aust$ Passed In - average to good condition.
1946 MKIV - 31,000 Aust$ Passed In - completely original, never restored, driveable, roadworthy, all matching numbers, with same plates as when first registered. Could be used as a daily driver!. Best start to a restorer I have seen for some time. Owner wanted high 30’s.
Other cars were sold, many unreserved. two kit cars were passed in, a type35 Bugatti (VW powered, UGH), and a Countach replica.
Quite a few low mileage cars, 7 x MG’s, 3 x MGA, and 3 x TD, 1 x TC. The TC is supercharged and blown. Not used as a trailer queen, but raced, and has still won 5 concours (all marque) in last 10 years.
The selling rate was just over half sold. Bidding was fierce for some cars, and non-existent for others.
From: B0R0@ozemail.com.au
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 11:04:16 +1000 (EST)
Subject: wire wheels…close call!!!
Just to let people who have wire wheels, that i have experianced what COULD have
been a disaster. I was driving home from the girlfriends, and I felt something
strange, I naturally thought id left the boot open, as this has a similar
effect. The wheels seemed to have a flat spot, I thought the girlfriend might
have had a close call and I was going to speak to her about it. anyhow I decided
to check the wheels, you know those wire ones, the ones that look good on a
classic car and damn hard to clean. Low and behold i happen to come across one
wheel with half of the spokes snapped, so the moral of this story is always
check your wheels everytime you do a service, I have found a tap with a
screwdriver or small hammer will let you here the dull thud of a broken wire.
Question. does anyone know if there is anyone in Melbourne. Australia that can
fix up wire wheels, if not does anyone have access on a classic car newsgroup
that could leave a message for me.
thanx in advance
MIK.
From: Greg Meboe meboe@mont-blanc.scs.wsu.edu
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 18:54:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Cruise Bellows
On Mon, 24 Jun 1996, Himes,John W. wrote:
is it OK to just to seal the metal plates and
rubber with some silicone sealant to make it air tight. This is not where
the bellows flex, just where the surround the metal plates.
Yes, that’s a good fix. I used non-hardening Hylomar on mine, but a
silicone sealer probably would work better.
<<< End Jaguar Content >>>
Also to Greg Meboe, if you did not get my mail, I do still have the stock
radio if still interested. Just have not thought of a $ yet. Maybe a few
thousand?
I did get your mail, but I got an error from your server on a
previous reply message to you. Hopefully my private reply to your offer
message gets through.
Greg
Greg Meboe meboe@mont-blanc.scs.wsu.edu
Web site>> http://www.scs.wsu.edu/~meboe
Mechanical Engineer Boeing Payloads Division
'85 XJ-12 H.E. (daily) '67 Spit-6 '74 TR-6
From: BMack7316@aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 21:58:55 -0400
Subject: Travel Gadgets, Welsh BW66 & Caution about a Shady Firm
Hey gang! Been out of pocket for awhile, but back. A wicked thunderstorm
knocked our power out, but thanks to the Lithium-ion, Alkaline and NiCAD
gods, I could care less. I recently realized just how AC/DC everything I own
is. I’m on the balcony with an iced 12-pack (screw the food – let it rot
if means sacrificing COLD beer), my laptop, a few candles and batt-op
lanterns, and my trusty PCMCIA CD ROM jamming some Joan Osborne. It could be
worse…
I just had a rebuilt BW66 from Welsh Enterprises put in “JAGNRND.” The unit
came without a shift cable attached and the wrong speedometer drive gear.
This meant that the freshly rebuilt unit had to cracked open from two ends,
consuming more time. With very little bitching from my mechanic, Welsh
promptly refunded me an extra $200.00. I think they know I’m a Jag-lover
list recipient and could have potentially unleashed some vile cyber-comments
about them, but it was a stand-up thing to do anyway. Way to go Welsh
Enterprises!
Contrast with my other Jag. I bought a V12 from Kraft Five Star in Des
Moines (listed in Hemmings.) Dirt Balls! I asked for a complete motor, and
it came without manifolds, injestors or distributor. They also charged my
credit card the day I ordered the motor, but didn’t ship it for three more
weeks. I figure this email is retaliation enough for the extra day or two of
sweat to get the parts off the old engine.
Brad Mack
85 SIII
85 XJS
92 Pathfinder
From: rs@telerama.lm.com (Rich Shehab)
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 22:26:24 -0400
Subject: '88 XJ40 Front Shocks
I have an '88 XJ40 with 105,000 miles and I believe it is time to replace
the front shock absorbers.
Jaguar wants about twice as much as other parts dealers.
Can anyone tell me the who is the manufacturer of the original shock, and if
they are available through other parts dealers?
Are other brand shocks just as good as the original equipment?
What is the expected life (mileage) for the front shocks?
I would appreciate a quick response, as I’ll be deciding what to do tomorrow.
Thank you,
Rich Shehab
Pittsburgh, PA
From: belmore@ns.netjax.com
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 22:36:03 -0500
Subject: xke list
Just thought I would say I’m sorry for not wanting the other Xke’s for my
list. The
truth is I screwed up when I sent out the invite for the xke owner to send
me there
Info. If they had an xke so I could get a list started on other Xke owner
and were
they are. Maybe we can get something going.
SORRY Bob
PLEASE SEND INFO> ON YOUR XKE to me
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #167
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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 25 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 168
Jaguar war stories
'85 XJS Symptoms…?
Spitting auxilary carburator - SU HD6
Wire wheels
Jag: E-type SII roadster boot board fasteners
Re: wire wheels…close call!!!
Removing 83 S3 Center Console
420 - Ignition cut-out switch
ECU TESTER?
Jag tool kit? (1988 XJ-S)
Re: ['92 XJ40] Should I “chip” my Jag ???
Throttle Jacks (LBC, but not jag specific)
Just a thank you to the list
Mk2 Paint question
Classic Status
Re: why a Jaguar?
Re: Fuel pump on XJ6
re:Wire Wheels- Melb Australia
From: rrichardson@eurekanet.com (Robert J. Richardson)
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 23:40:49 -0500
Subject: Jaguar war stories
I’m new on the list so I hope I’ve addressed this correctly. I’d like to
fill out the data base form, but it’s a little confusing. Should I make up
a form or just fill in the data that’s pertinent? My Jaguar years go back
to 1956 when I practically gave away a 1955 Chevy V-8 to acquire a 1953
XK-120M DHC (drophead
coupe). It’s top was most evident even when down, but it had mohair lining,
roll-up windows and beautiful walnut fascia and side trim plus lush leather
seats. This was my main transportation in and around Warren, Ohio. We had a
great sports car club with an inner group called the Left Turn Club. And
this is how I met and raced against a 19-year-old kid from Cleveland–Roger
Penske!
We had a hill climb on a piece of state highway that actually was
sanctioned by the Highway Patrol. Roger showed up in a bright yellow Jag
roadster that was at least 500 pounds lighter than my drophead. He came in
first in our class and beat me by just a few seconds. This was in 1957.
More than one Corvette was brought back to the staging area in bits and
pieces of fractured fibreglass. The
reason we named our inner circle the Left Turn Club was because we talked
our way into using a half-mile dirt track during the intermissions of
Friday night
stock-car races to display our “great racing skills.” I almost always came
in last, but I was the only one who stayed off the rail and didn’t have to
visit
the body shop the next day. I think Roger was involved in these fiascos,
but my memory is fading after about 40 years. I took that Jag to Aruba when
I joined Esso as to help write and edit the “Aruba Esso News”, but it never
got within a mile of any beach area. We all had beach buggies, some with no
bodies, because of the salt air. My buggy was a 1950 Morris Minor that
wouldn’t go into reverse. The beautiful Jag was kept tightly wrapped in a
closed garage most of the time. Aruba only had one highway that was about
seven miles long and speed was limited to 45mph in a few open stretches.
When it was time to leave Aruba in 1963 for a stateside career, I decided
to sell the Jag for $900 thinking I could easily replace it in Los Angeles.
That was a mistake. Nothing like it was available at a price I could
afford, so I ended up going back to Ohio in a new Corvair. But I
wonder-whatever happened to good old Roger Penske? Hmmm.
From: blender@ix.netcom.com (David A. Blender)
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 21:42:57 -0700
Subject: '85 XJS Symptoms…?
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
From: blender@ix.netcom.com (David A. Blender)
Subject: '85 XJS Symptoms…?
Date: Mon, 24 Jun 1996 12:57:53 -0700
Hello Everyone:
A few weeks ago I requested some assistance on this same vehicle as it
had blown up a sparkplug. Thank you all who responded with your ideas,
suggestions and assistance. All taken care of…and Champion Spark Plug
Company has by now a nice informative letter sitting before their legal
department…I would guess.
On this latest of malfunctions…here are the issues and such. My jag has been somewhat, shall we say…challenging. This latest go round is that it had been overheating in our 102 degree Texas heat. The car has new thermostats, recored radiator, new hoses and belts, new sparkplugs, timing chain, waterpump, new headgaskets, resurfaced valves… cooling fan, heater core, heater valve, and the list goes on, etc… All of the obvious is fixed or new. The overheating became severe…To the point of having to stop and letting it cool while watching large amounts of coolant blow through the overflow. I diagnosed a misaligned distributor…resulting from the PO. Now fixed…the power of the V12 is fantastic and the temperature now operates closer to normal ranges. However, as the vehicle heats up from cold…the power is somewhat affected…it operates great when cold or cool…as the day wears on the and the engine temperature is at or slightly above “N”, the power decreases somewhat…also accompanied by an occasional ping or two upon acceleration. What is this? Do I need to set the advance mechanism to compensate for this ping and warming of the engine? ALSO, as the car is driven at higher and higher speeds over extended periods…the temperature indicator will level off in the middle between the “N” and “H” indicators. As the car is slowed (45-55 MPH) it will cool down to the “N” range again. 2) When warm or hot the idle seems to adjust itself downward. It actually will slow to 300-400 RPM for a while before it quits. In stop-and-go traffic…the car will die upon acceleration (from a stop only) or during extended idling periods. What causes this…? Could this all be related? When the engine is cooler…the idle even with the A/C is fine. I have adjusted the idle on several different ocassions…so what to do…?? Any assistance or suggestions is much appreciated in advance… This problem just puzzles me…as I have done all that I know how to do to correct the problem… Many thanks… David A. Blender 1985 Jaguar XJS H.E. P.S. Sorry if you are receiving this message twice! However, it was bounced back to me twice each time indicating the message was undeliverable…so here it is again… From: jorgen@tvnorge.no (Jorgen Scheel) Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 12:48:41 +0100 Subject: Spitting auxilary carburator - SU HD6 I was poking around with my -59 Mark1 3.4 manual yesterday. I gave the engine a good degreasing and a steam, aferwards it did not start. Well i am used to that because the distributor gets damp and so on. I blow things dry and start again. Brooooom!! After a couple of minuttes running the water temerature reaches about 35 degrees celcius, the thermostat does its thing and the auxilary carburator is releved of its duties. Then the engine almost stops and the aux. carb. spits gas from the air intake (?)three channels right in front of the solenoid)). Well maybe there was some water in there - I thought. But this does not stop it keeps spitting gasoline! Why? I did not dare to run the engine anymore because the spitting makes such good air/gas mix its scary… (BOOM!?!) HELP! MK1 -59 jorgen@tvnorge.no From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@compuserve.com Date: 25 Jun 96 08:34:10 EDT Subject: Wire wheels I don’t know about Melbourne, but I have just sent one of my wire wheels to a guy here in Sydney (I hope he’s OK, sounds it so far). If you want the address etc, drop me a line. By the way, some years ago I purchased about 300 spokes from Peter someone in Wales, for 16 inch CWW for the XK150, thinking that they would eventually save me money. Having sent 60 to this bloke with the wheel, the first thing he did was to ring me up and tell me that they were no good! The originals (he says) were double somethinged (was it butted?) (i.e. thick at each end) and my Welsh ones are the same thickness throughout; also, the angle is slightly wrong at one end, as a result of which the chrome will be chipped off. So he is going to put his own (original type) spokes in. Anyone else know what should be original in detail on a 60 spoke XK wire wheel? He also said to me that he used to import the (new) Indian Dunlops unchromed, strip and chrome the whole wheel, rebuild it properly, and it was fine. I have heard complaints re the Indians. Regards, John Elmgreen From: ejt@wg.icl.co.uk (Ted Trim) Date: Tue, 25 Jun 96 13:36:38 BST Subject: Jag: E-type SII roadster boot board fasteners Hi all, What kind of fasteners were used in an SII 1968 E-type roadster to secure the “floor board” in the boot/trunk? A colleague thinks they might have been Dzus type twist-locks with toggle handles. Any ideas? Cheers, Ted ejt@wg.icl.co.uk From: hdrsons@iamerica.net (Hal Rogers) Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 08:28:33 -0600 Subject: Re: wire wheels…close call!!! At 11:04 AM 6/25/96 +1000, B0R0@ozemail.com.au wrote:
Just to let people who have wire wheels, that i have experianced what COULD
have
been a disaster. I was driving home from the girlfriends, and I felt something
strange, I naturally thought id left the boot open, as this has a similar
effect. The wheels seemed to have a flat spot, I thought the girlfriend might
have had a close call and I was going to speak to her about it. anyhow I
decided
to check the wheels, you know those wire ones, the ones that look good on a
classic car and damn hard to clean. Low and behold i happen to come across one
wheel with half of the spokes snapped, so the moral of this story is always
check your wheels everytime you do a service, I have found a tap with a
screwdriver or small hammer will let you here the dull thud of a broken wire.Question. does anyone know if there is anyone in Melbourne. Australia that
can
fix up wire wheels, if not does anyone have access on a classic car newsgroup
that could leave a message for me.
If you cannot repair the wheel, you may try the following outfit:
GB Auto Supplies
20 Garema Circuit
Kingsgrove, NSW 2208
(02) 758 1344
(02) 740 3319 fax
Tell him, Hal Rogers sent you.
Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
Import Auto Specialists
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax
Serving Auto Enthusiasts since 1959
From: BD1Y0CA@NJMKTNG.BELL-ATL.COM
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 11:30:54 -0400
Subject: Removing 83 S3 Center Console
I would like to change my stock radio and service the trip
computer. Can someone tell me the tool to remove the
locknuts underneath the climate control knobs, I think once
they are removed I can get to the plate in front of the
radio. True?
Also once I get that far what else needs to be done to get
the trip computer out.Thanks for any help someone can offer.
Alex Lynch
83 SIII
62 TR-3
From: Peter Carpenter afp332@bangor.ac.uk
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 16:52:15 +0100 (BST)
Subject: 420 - Ignition cut-out switch
I have 1967 420, which is fitted with a cut-out switch, located in the
glove compartment, on the side backing into the wiring/fusebox area.
I am told that this was a factory fitted item, and certainly the wiring
looks identical to all the other stuff. It is meant to cut-out the LT
circuit of the ignition - and perhaps others. There are 3 wires attached
to the terminals of the switch. I have not as yet gone to the trouble of
tracing these wires.
The car has been for body treatment, with engine out. On return, the
switch has not worked properly. Activating causes a huge current drain.
With it ‘off’ the car runs very well, but the tacho reads about 100% too
high (which it used not to), and there is an intermittent failure in the
LT circuit, causing a cough.
I ask whether anyone else is familiar with the circuit I describe,
because it is not in any wiring diagram I have seen.
I assume that the switch is wired to something strange, but I don’t yet
know what, and perhaps coincidentally the tacho needs recalibrating and
there is a poor wire connection/ dodgy coil. I have the ability to work
through all the circuits and wires… BUT does it ring any bells with
anyone???
Regards
Peter Carpenter
From: cgaudi@gaudi.IExpress.Com (Charles Gaudi)
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 13:06:11 -0400
Subject: ECU TESTER?
I have a 84 XJS and an 87 XJ6 SIII what I don’t have is a way of conducting
any diagostics on the electronic control unit for the engine. Does anyone
out there no of a maker of a testing unit like those manufactured by Sun
electronics for Fords and GM systems. I have one for my Ford Taurus, it
cost $29.95US and runs a complete diagnostics program on the ECU. It
reports back any error codes and directs you to the fault or allows you to
do the wiggle test on connectors to find the fault.
I’d love to buy one of these for my Jags as this would solve alot of
problems in a hurry.
If any one can help please lets us all know thanks
Chuck Gaudi
Merritt Island, Fla.
From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 10:19:26 -0400
Subject: Jag tool kit? (1988 XJ-S)
- –IMA.Boundary.382127538
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Description: cc:Mail note part
The following snippet raises a question for me …
I have found that the stock Jag spark plug wrench from the tool kit will
remove the front plugs OK, without removing the compressor. This was on
an 82 XJ-S HE.
Does this mean that the '82 XJ-S came with a tool kit? If so, does anyone
know when (if) the toolkit was dropped as a standard item? My '88 XJ-S did
not come with a tool kit, only a jack. Does this mean the dealer ripped me
off 8 years ago? Or was the kit simply omitted from the US Market cars on
the theory that most American Jag buyers wouldn’t know what to do with them
anyway . . . ?
MikeC m.cogswell@zds.com
'74 E-Type OTS (with tool roll)
'88 XJ-S (H&E Convertible) (with no tool kit!)
'88 Honda Accord (335,000 miles and climbing) (doesn’t need tools)
'91 Chevy Suburban (when you really need the room)
'96 Honda Accord (hope it lasts as long as the '88)
- –IMA.Boundary.382127538–
From: tony goodall tony@goodall.u-net.com
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 18:33:41 +0100
Subject: Re: ['92 XJ40] Should I “chip” my Jag ???
At 13:49 24/06/96 +0100, Graham Watson wrote:
I’m thinking of replacing the ECU in my '92 XJ40 3.2, to try and get
some more mid-range power out of it.There seem to be two ways to do this - either give “Superchips” some
money, or give AJ6 Engineering some money. Does anybody have any opinion
as to :-
Is either of these two companies better ?
Is there another company I should be talking to ?
What sort of difference might it make ?
Is there a better way to improve mid-range performance, other than a
V12 ?
I’d trust AJ6 more, but I’d advise you to leave it alone
You won’t be able to get insured as easily, and the performance will
be little different - AJ6 did an intake upgrade for the XJS, but any of these
will invalidate your insurance (in the UK at least), and the “loss adjusters”
do know what to look for when you have a crash. They know which models
chip well, and they check the ECUs. When your car is at the garage, and he
finds
it, you’re left with thte repair bill.
Get a 4.0 or a v12 if you want more power.
or take the cat off (legal in UK I think), that would give 10-20 bhp extra I
think!!!
(put it back on every year for the MOT)
cheers
tony
(1990 XJ6 3.6)
Dr. A. Goodall http://www.u-net.com/~goodall/
From: Jim Van Riper jvr@informix.com
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 12:59:34 -0500
Subject: Throttle Jacks (LBC, but not jag specific)
Sorry about this non-Jag specific post, but I’m a bit desparate. I’m trying
to sell my 79 TR7 convertible so that I can put the resulting funds into my
70 E. I’ve tried the triumph list but no one knows anything about my
problem, throttle jacks. I’m hoping that Jaguar used a similar system during
the late 70’s and someone here may know the answer.
Since this is a non-jag specific question, please respond to me directly.
Here is the situation:
The throttle jack (TJ) is a small black box with a white casing on the back
and a white plunger. On the TR it is under the two Zenith carbs. It has two
unmarked male spade connectors on the bottom.
The TJ is not completely connected. A wire is connected to one of the male
spades and it goes to the carbs. I don’t know where the main wire is. My
factory 77 TR7 book says only Canadian cars have TJs in 1977 and that there
should be a slate and yellow wire connected to it. I can’t find a slate and
yellow wire. My Haynes book (which claims to cover up to 1980 TR7s and TR8s)
makes no mention of it at all and doesn’t have a wiring diagram later than
77 or 78.
Here is what I have coming out of the harness under the carbs:
Green Wire & Green w/Orange stripe wire connecting to the bottom of the
intake manifold via a white plug. Not likely candidates?
A brown w/Orange stripe wire with a tubular connector. Goes no where.
A black wire with a tubular connector connected to a black wire that
attaches to the backside of the front carb.
A black w/Orange stripe wire with a tubular connector connected to a black
w/orange stripe wire that connects to the backside of the front carb and it
looks like it goes into a white socket. It is a little aft of the pure black
wire. The black and black w/orange wires are joined via their insulation
(like zipcord) between their tubular connectors and the carb.
A black w/red wire going to an odd little switch that just dangles. The
Victoria British catalog seems to indicate that this switch should be
screwed into something. However, neither manual makes any acknowledgement
about the switches existance.
A green w/orange wire going to the same odd little switch.
Any ideas? The orphaned brown w/orange seems like a candidate but the
tubular connector surely won’t fit the spade connector on the bottom of the
throttle jack.
Any help greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
jvr
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 14:11:05 -0500
Subject: Just a thank you to the list
Awhile back, someone on the list stated that they never took their car
through a car wash (which I donot do anymore), in part because it gave them
the chance to “see small problems before they became large and expensive ones”.
Well thank you to whomever gave that pearl of wisdom. This past saturday I
am washing the Jag when I notice that the left muffler, et al is knocking
against the bottom of the boot. Closer inspection shows that the clamp from
the exhaust pipe to the muffler is cracked and loose. $1.33 later for a new
clamp, problem is fixed. I hate to think what a new muffler, chrome end,
etc. would have cost!?
Scott Phillips
'88 XJ40
PS Anyone know why there is no jag club in Minnesota?
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 22:28:56 +0000
Subject: Mk2 Paint question
A question from a local club member:
He has a Mk2 that needs new paint. The original colour is
called “opalescent maroon”. None of the local paint-guys
can find this in their books, and therefore can’t mix up
a batch for him.
Does anyone have a recipe that might be right?
Nick
<<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>>
<<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>>
The JagWeb http://www.sn.no/~nick/jaguar.html <<<
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 96 14:28:13 PDT
Subject: Classic Status
Japan:
I have some respect for the 240Z, having owned a 1973 one since new and had a
lot of fun in it. It could have been developed into a fine GT
.
.
Otherwise, the only Jap car I can
imagine with anything like a following as a classic is the Mazda RX7.
Actually, there’s one Japanese car that has developed a large cult following,
and has virtually established classic status: The Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40.
Yes, that’s right, I bet some classic car folks don’t even know. It was
last imported to the U.S. around 1983, and is highly sought after today.
Try buying one in the local newspapers; good ones are usually gone within
hours after the ad comes out, with no questions asked and asking price paid!
I know this because I bought and sold one!
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 17:35:11 -0400
Subject: Re: why a Jaguar?
At 12:46 PM 6/24/96, you wrote:
Then there’s the pretty
one designed by Loewy - I forget the number - in the fifties, which found
great
popularity but small sales.
The one you are thinking of is the BMW 507, with body by Pinninfarina.
Raymond Loewy is best known for his Studebaker designs, including the
President, Avanti and Starlight models. I don’t believe he had much to do
with non-USA designs.
Japan:
I would add the third generation Toyota Supra. It has a lot of neat
features, including monocoque construction with separate front and rear
subframes, powerful inline 6 cylinder engine, aluminum DOHC head, 2+2
styling, long hood/hatchback rear, a string of indistiguishable rocker
switches on the dash panel, occasional overheating problems… say, it
sounds like… yes…it is…a knock-off XKE. Hmmmmmm.
Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
1966 Plymouth Barracuda
1988 Toyota Supra
1995 Saab 900
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 96 14:47:31 PDT
Subject: Re: Fuel pump on XJ6
but I am glad there are 2 tanks because that
implies 2 fuel pumps as well.
Actually, it doesn’t imply that. On the series II XJ12 I had, there’s
a switch that decides which tank to draw the fuel from, but there’s
only one pump.
If you look at the design of the series I-III XJ sedan, it’s easy to
see why it’s got two tanks: simply because with the bulky independent
rear suspension and the spare tire in the trunk well, there’s no
other place to put the fuel tanks except on the sides. In the brochures
of the 70’s, it gives some non-sense about how this helps to give the car
better balance!!
Some further comments: the fuel tanks are poorly designed. They tend to rust
and leak, and they’re very difficult/expensive to replace. There’s also no
reason why the two sides couldn’t be connected. The switches that control the
tank selection often give trouble, and end up causing fuel to overflow
out of one of the tanks.
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: Peter Rebbechi <"REBBECHI PETER"@A1.MEOC02.SNO.mts.dec.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 21:46:00 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: re:Wire Wheels- Melb Australia
Try
NEWAY Motor Wheel repairs, (03) 94573141, Factroy 2/11 Beatrice Avenue West Heidelberg VIC 3081.
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #168
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X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest
jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 26 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 169
69 E FHC very good $12k !!
Condensation Problem in XJ-6 Series III
Re: ECU TESTER?
E-Type Restoration Opportunity
Nice '68 Jag 340 Mk.II for sale
E coupe $12k excellent
RE: E-Type Restoration Opportunity
Re: 83 XJ6 Steering Rack Bushings
Engine XJS Wanted
Manual transmission on 1983 Jaguar U.S. models?
Re: Manual transmission on 1983 Jaguar U.S. models?
Re: Manual transmission on 1983 Jaguar U.S. models?
Re: Manual transmission on 1983 Jaguar U.S. models?
XJS rear axle to fit on MK1/MK2?
Re: '88 XJ40 Front Shocks
Re: 69 E FHC very good $12k !!
Re: Manual transmission on 1983 Jaguar U.S. models?
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 15:04:19 -0700
Subject: 69 E FHC very good $12k !!
I have just taken a look at a SII E FHC across the street from me that
will soon be owned by a dealership here taking the car in trade for a
Land Rover.
Excellent paint ( White - non orig) excellent interior ( biscuit -non
orig) engine and mechanicals seem good … with A/C ( working)
They will take $12k for it… I think it is a good price if anyone wants
one of these cars!!
all the best
tony
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
From: “Rice, Brian” RICEB@lsod.srl.dsto.defence.gov.au
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 96 09:07:00 CST
Subject: Condensation Problem in XJ-6 Series III
Hi fellow Jag Lovers,
This is my 1st message to Jag Lovers Mail List and wow, am I impressed by
how it works. Well done!
My beautiful '84 XJ-6 Series III Soveriegn is being ruined by condensation
inside the cabin. After using the car for a while and then parking on cold
nights the water that has collected in the airconditioner recondenses onto
the cold windsreen and completely fogs the inside of the car which is
causing heaps of damage. The roof lining is now peeling off every where.
The two drain pipes on either side of the car are CLEAR. I have probed them
from underneath and vacuumed them out from inside the airconditioner (no
easy task) using a piece of half inch plastic hose on our vacuum cleaner.
They are definitely clear and apart from a small amount of fluff were in
good state of cleanliness.
I suspect that the problem has something to do with the fact that ever since
we purchased the car 5 years ago small pieces of black plastic foam (quite
course in texture) have been blowing out of the airconditioner vents. I
think it must be an internal dust filter or something that has deteriorated
with time. There is nothing in the Jaguar Workshop Manuals on this. Can
anyone please help? The airconditioner flaps all work properly and seem to
be adjusted correctly. When the car is parked with the engine off , the
vacuum stays high in the storage reservoir but the airconditioner flaps stay
open in the demist screen position allowing moisture to vent up onto the
windscreen.
Apart from these little irritations I love my 2 Jaguars and get a great deal
of pleasure out of owning and driving them. My wife and I saved up for ages
and purchased a matched pair, the '84 XJ-6 Series III Sovereign above, and
an ‘85 XJ-S HE, both white. The HE won the South Australian Jaguar Drivers’
Club Category B (Not full Concourse) for XJ-S Class in 1995 and is my pride
and joy although I like the style (grace and elegance) of the Sovereign
better.
Brian W.Rice
South Australia
'84 XJ-6 Series III Sovereign
'85 XJ-S HE
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 13:33:06 -0700
Subject: Re: ECU TESTER?
You and everyone else would love one of these units. Unfortunately
what you are talking about is not running a diagnostics program on the
ECU. All it is doing is checking for trouble codes that the ECU stores.
This function has to be built into the ECU. Trouble codes are
notoriously unreliable and at best only give you a starting place for
your diagnosis. The newer cars, '94 and newer I believe, use OBDII.
This system is actually much better. It’s sort of like comparing a 286
to a Pentium. Not to mention that you wasted $30, you can get the same
results by jumping a couple of pins and counting pulses of the check
engine light.
Charles Gaudi wrote:
I have a 84 XJS and an 87 XJ6 SIII what I don’t have is a way of conducting
any diagostics on the electronic control unit for the engine. Does anyone
out there no of a maker of a testing unit like those manufactured by Sun
electronics for Fords and GM systems. I have one for my Ford Taurus, it
cost $29.95US and runs a complete diagnostics program on the ECU. It
reports back any error codes and directs you to the fault or allows you to
do the wiggle test on connectors to find the fault.I’d love to buy one of these for my Jags as this would solve alot of
problems in a hurry.If any one can help please lets us all know thanks
Chuck Gaudi
Merritt Island, Fla.
From: Joe Bunik jbunik@bayarea.net
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 16:53:42 -0700
Subject: E-Type Restoration Opportunity
I have the unfortunate personal situation of having to relocate from the
Los Angeles area (actually Tustin in Orange County). Due to the need to
move into a reduced environment from what I currently enjoy, I am forced
to consider giving up my current project and am looking for a good home
for a dear member of the family.
I have a 68 E-Type (Series 1 1/2, open headlights, rocker switches, old
style bumper/turn signals above bumper) with all the mechanicals out and
in various stages of paint and cleaning. The original body has some
amount of rust but could be put in shape. I also have a second '68
E-Type body tub (with trunk lid and doors) and hood which is/was a
California car (intended by its original owner to become a racer but
never made it) and has no rust. The body tub (trunk lib and doors) are
currently in primer.
I also have new F/R bumpers, 4 new wire wheels (triple spoke) and a
veritable plethora of new parts/pieces to replace those originals which
need replacement. The engine had approximately 2500 miles on a re-build
which included valves, bearings and clutch before removal. No work has
been done on the rear suspension.
I know that this type of project is at it’s worst time but everything is
ready for reassembly and the chance to finsh it off in the way E-Types
deserve. My new position/location does not permit the completion of
this project in anything resembling a timely manner nor will I likely
have the space for 2 cars worh of sheetmetal.
Please contact me by E-mail if anyone has further interest. I will
consider all offers.
From: Harald Freise hfreise@fox.nstn.ca
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 21:44:57 -0300 (ADT)
Subject: Nice '68 Jag 340 Mk.II for sale
FYI:
Seen at the local (Ottawa, Canada) weekend British car show this
past weekend.
"1968 Jaguar 340 (Mk 2) complete restoration completed in 1990. DOHC
engine, automatic transmission, 4-wheel disk brakes, all original, all
numbers match."
The car is BRG and very nice. The handout says that it has "several
1st place Jaguar Clubs of North America (JCNA) trophies (class 8). Car
consistently scores in the 99.7-99.9 (out of possible 100) range under JCNA
Concours Class rules. All original, receipts are available."
"Asking price $45,000.00 (Cdn) but am open to offers. Contact
Charlie at (613) 830-7418 (evenings)."
The handout is quite extesive and I can post it to you on request.
Otherwise I know NOTHING.
Harald
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 18:46:10 -0700
Subject: E coupe $12k excellent
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From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Subject: 69 E FHC very good $12k !!
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Sender: owner-jag-lovers@sn.no
Precedence: bulk
I have just taken a look at a SII E FHC across the street from me that
will soon be owned by a dealership here taking the car in trade for a
Land Rover.
Excellent paint ( White - non orig) excellent interior ( biscuit -non
orig) engine and mechanicals seem good … with A/C ( working)
They will take $12k for it… I think it is a good price if anyone wants
one of these cars!!
all the best
tony
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
From: “Roger langley” lang0080@gold.tc.umn.edu
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 21:00:48
Subject: RE: E-Type Restoration Opportunity
What sort of price are you thinking about?
Roger Langley
lang0080@gold.tc.umn.edu
612-771-0806
University of Minnesota
St. Paul, Minnesota, USA
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jun 96 12:59:43
Subject: Re: 83 XJ6 Steering Rack Bushings
This is not a difficult job, but can be hard on the patience as it involves
juggling heavy parts in a confined space while oil and grit drips in your
face…
You don’t need to remove the ball joints; the steering should be re-aligned
after this job, anyway, so the easy way is to unscrew the tie rods where you
normally adjust them. If you leave the locknuts exactly two flats off where
they were, say, it’s easy to get back to about the original adjustment as a
starting point.
Draining the liquid is no big deal; there’s only about a quart in the system.
To save yourself some dribbles, swing the steering slowly from lock to lock a
couple of times after you disconnect the tie rods and pipes (and put a drain
pan under the rack!).
Pull out the three mounting bolts and drop the rack down before you disconnect
the steering rod U-joint - it’s hard to get at, otherwise. You must pull the
U-joint clamping bolt out before you can disengage the splines.
For the same reason, it’s a good idea to refit the steering rod U-joint before
you offer the rack up to the mounting brackets, even if it’s a bit of a juggle.
The cutout for the clamping bolt ensures that you get it back in the correct
position.
The hardest part is lining up the strange four-hole shim affair in the double
bracket at the steering column end; a pointed dowel or small Phillips
screwdriver helps. I found this shim superfluous with the urethane aftermarket
bushes I fitted to my XJC, so left it out (couldn’t have got it in is nearer
the mark).
The Jaguar manual specifies a special tool to locate the rack at the correct
height. Personally, I can’t see the need for this, as the possible vertical
movement (less than 1/16") is trivial in comparison with the suspension
movement. The part this tool is to line up with has anyway been banged against
the ground so many times in 19 years of use that accurate alignment is
impossible.
When you get down to doing the wheel alignment afterwards, remove the grease
nipple in the middle of the large friction adjusting nut in the continuation of
the spindle and insert the shank of a drill bit that fits the hole (9/32" from
memory, but don’t quote me), then turn the steering gently from side to side
until it locks. This is to centralise the steering exactly.
Don’t assume that the PO has done everything right, so have caster and camber
measured as well. You can adjust both yourself, provided you know the existing
angles. Don’t take the word of a wheel shop for the correct angles, but use the
ones out of the Jaguar manual - the wheel shops rely on some very casual data
books.
If, after all the adjustment, your steering wheel is canted when you drive
straight ahead, adjust this by pulling the steering wheel and adjusting it on
its splines; the other end is not adjustable.
The important point about the aftermarket bushes is that they permit little or
no endwise movement. If your mounting brackets have been banged about, the
bushes may be a loose fit; make sure you shim them up good and tight. You’ll
find your steering utterly transformed!
Have fun,
- -Jan
From: GFoster737@gnn.com (Gerald Foster)
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 23:21:37
Subject: Engine XJS Wanted
Anyone have a good used V12 HE engine for 86 XJS? E-Mail with condition and prices.
Prefer complete engine as removed but will consider all offers. Would appreciate
some leads on sources for this engine. I have the Jag listing of parts suppliers but
want to save some time and phone calls. Prefer Eastern USA location. Will be
parting out my engine if anyone needs miscell parts from it.
From: wje@fir.esd.sgi.com (William J. Earl)
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 22:13:02 -0700
Subject: Manual transmission on 1983 Jaguar U.S. models?
I am in the process of buying a 1983 Jaguar XJ6, originally sold
in New Hampshire, U.S.A., with an automatic transmission. The
transmission has since been replaced with a Getrag 5-speed manual
transmission, which I have been told is what was used on the British
models. (Is that correct?) I plan to register the car in California,
which is a bit complicated, due to state rules in regard to smog
inspections for modified vehicles. Were any 1983 Jaguar models with a
6 cylinder engine and a 5-speed manual transmission sold in the U.S.?
If so, this would likely make the registration process simpler, since
there are simple exceptions for modified vehicles which have a
drive train which was sold in the U.S.
I am new to the this list, and reside in Boulder Creek, California,
in the Santa Cruz Mountains, about 50 miles south of San Francisco.
I found the car described above via the Internet, and plan to drive
it across the country in August. I was looking for a elegant
car, but I insist on a manual transmission in any car I drive
regularly. The car I found is quite pristine.
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 22:20:41 -0700
Subject: Re: Manual transmission on 1983 Jaguar U.S. models?
I’ve never seen or heard of a 5 speed SIII XJ6 being imported into
the states by Jaguar Cars of North America. There was the 5 speed XJS
with the AJ6 motor in the mid '80s. I think 70 or 80 of those were
imported. That wouldn’t really help much though. Does the CA DMV
really check for transmission type?
William J. Earl wrote:
I am in the process of buying a 1983 Jaguar XJ6, originally soldin New Hampshire, U.S.A., with an automatic transmission. The
transmission has since been replaced with a Getrag 5-speed manual
transmission, which I have been told is what was used on the British
models. (Is that correct?) I plan to register the car in California,
which is a bit complicated, due to state rules in regard to smog
inspections for modified vehicles. Were any 1983 Jaguar models with a
6 cylinder engine and a 5-speed manual transmission sold in the U.S.?
If so, this would likely make the registration process simpler, since
there are simple exceptions for modified vehicles which have a
drive train which was sold in the U.S.I am new to the this list, and reside in Boulder Creek, California,in the Santa Cruz Mountains, about 50 miles south of San Francisco.
I found the car described above via the Internet, and plan to drive
it across the country in August. I was looking for a elegant
car, but I insist on a manual transmission in any car I drive
regularly. The car I found is quite pristine.
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 22:20:41 -0700
Subject: Re: Manual transmission on 1983 Jaguar U.S. models?
I’ve never seen or heard of a 5 speed SIII XJ6 being imported into
the states by Jaguar Cars of North America. There was the 5 speed XJS
with the AJ6 motor in the mid '80s. I think 70 or 80 of those were
imported. That wouldn’t really help much though. Does the CA DMV
really check for transmission type?
William J. Earl wrote:
I am in the process of buying a 1983 Jaguar XJ6, originally soldin New Hampshire, U.S.A., with an automatic transmission. The
transmission has since been replaced with a Getrag 5-speed manual
transmission, which I have been told is what was used on the British
models. (Is that correct?) I plan to register the car in California,
which is a bit complicated, due to state rules in regard to smog
inspections for modified vehicles. Were any 1983 Jaguar models with a
6 cylinder engine and a 5-speed manual transmission sold in the U.S.?
If so, this would likely make the registration process simpler, since
there are simple exceptions for modified vehicles which have a
drive train which was sold in the U.S.I am new to the this list, and reside in Boulder Creek, California,in the Santa Cruz Mountains, about 50 miles south of San Francisco.
I found the car described above via the Internet, and plan to drive
it across the country in August. I was looking for a elegant
car, but I insist on a manual transmission in any car I drive
regularly. The car I found is quite pristine.
From: wje@fir.esd.sgi.com (William J. Earl)
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 22:59:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Manual transmission on 1983 Jaguar U.S. models?
Michael P. Neal writes:
I’ve never seen or heard of a 5 speed SIII XJ6 being imported into
the states by Jaguar Cars of North America. There was the 5 speed XJS
with the AJ6 motor in the mid '80s. I think 70 or 80 of those were
imported. That wouldn’t really help much though. Does the CA DMV
really check for transmission type?
In principle, the smog stations are supposed to check, and,
if they object, you visit a Bureau of Automotive Repair referee.
If referee tests your car and decides whatever change you made
does not put you over the emissions limits, he puts a BAR sticker
on your car, and you are home free ever after. If not, you have
to go to one of two testing services for a full certification,
much as would be done for a gray market imported car. The
referee costs about $40; the certification costs about $1500.
I got a really good deal on the car, so even the latter would
be tolerable, but talking the referee into accepting the change
would be easier.
I did not expect that any XJ6s with manual transmissions
had been sold in the U.S., but it seemed worth asking.
From: jorgen@tvnorge.no (Jorgen Scheel)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 10:00:54 +0100
Subject: XJS rear axle to fit on MK1/MK2?
I had a vision last night…
I have two MK1, one to restore to original the other is a parts car. The
parts car is pretty much complete so I am toying with the idea to get that
running to.
Would anyone be able to tell me if the rear axle from a XJS would fit on the
car?
Of course its not a bolt on fit, but is it to wide? Anyone tried it on a
MK2? Anyone know the rear axle load of an XJS compared to a MK1/MK2?
All ideas welcome!
MK1 -59
jorgen@tvnorge.no
From: Donald McGregor Donald.McGregor@snl.co.uk
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 10:49:58 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: Re: '88 XJ40 Front Shocks
Rich asked (about '88 XJ40 Shocks)
Can anyone tell me the who is the manufacturer of the original
shock, and if they are >>available through other parts dealers?
The original shocks were made by BOGE. You can still get these
in
‘Kwik-fit’ type garages at a reasonable price with lifetime
warranty in some
cases (that’s what I have…(50 UK pounds each including
fitting))
I think Jaguar now only fit BILSTEIN (sp?) shocks, and these
are a little more
expensive ( 70 UK pounds each plus fitting ?) The shocks are
not really
any more expensive at the Jaguar Dealers but the labour
is…
What is the expected life (mileage) for the front shocks?
If you are lucky, shocks will last and last but they do
deteriorate over time
My rear shocks are still original and I’ve done 106,000 miles.
The front ones
have been replaced three times in the same distance and one
new shock
failed only two months after being replaced…under warranty
fortunately.
Donald.McGregor@snl.co.uk
1988 3.6 Sovereign XJ40
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 03:51:39 -0700
Subject: Re: 69 E FHC very good $12k !!
You wrote:
Gentlemen, please send details of this 1969 coupe. Also,where are
you
located? Many thanks, Henry Brigham. HBRIGIII@AOL.com Rockport,
Texas
Hi … This is not our car nor do we have anything to do with it other
than having seen it. The car was silver and black now is white with
biscuit. engine and a/c operate well. car appears tidy and well kept (
owned by a very wealthy NY venture capitalist). 92k on the odometer.
Paint is clean and interior looks unused ( could have been done inthe
last 6 months or so (?)… Probably needs $500 spending on it at most.
Car being traded to the local dealer who wants to get rid of it FAST!!
Just thought folks on the list should be aware of it…
car is in Miami Florida … to see call Chris at the Jaguar Collection
tony
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 03:57:37 -0700
Subject: Re: Manual transmission on 1983 Jaguar U.S. models?
I have seen/ heard of a few manual SIIIs in the states … legal or not
i am not sure… maybe grey market.
However, the Getrag was NOT the 5 speed installed it was another model
(BW I think) from the SII and also in early SIII ( 80/81)
all the best
tony
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 26 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 170
Re: Lets start the Chebby lump thing all over again.
Overheating XJS
Re: 83 XJ6 Steering Rack Bushings
Re: Jag tool kit? (1988 XJ-S)
Re: S2 XJ-6/12/parts/free
Re: Jag Vacuum Climate Routing
Denver Trip Planned
Re: 67 xke - crow engineering
Japanese classic cars
XJS rear axle on a MK1? Reply for Ted Trim
RE: Wood Trim matching
First Post – Howdy! – Door Locks
Electrical definition – relays
NO SUBJECT
Beer Contest. (Was XJ6 seized engine.)
Jag tool kit? (1988 XJ-S)
Re: Original Series III 5-speed US car
Re: Beer Contest. (Was XJ6 seized engine.)
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 08:09:15 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Lets start the Chebby lump thing all over again.
I love it. WHy not add a transfer case and front center diff from a late
model chebby pickup for four wheel drive? ANd extend the front end -
longer hood - for room for all this stuff. ANd jack it way up.
Seriously, sounds like a challenging project, and by all means do it if
you have the urge to prove you can, but you’ll probably be spending a lot
of time and money on a conversion that will never quite be ‘right’. Too
many design compromises along the way. The final product may not be up
to your expectations, given the effort involved. And that could be
disappointing. But if you really need to prove you can do it, go ahead.
On Sun, 23 Jun 1996, James A. Isbell wrote:
I have been thinking about something and would appreciate some input.
I have a “Chebby”, well not realy, ita a 1985 Cadillac Seville (same company
made it). It is way under powered and I am thinking of putting a Jag IRS
under the rear and a V12 under the hood. Sort of a “Chebby with a Jaguar Lump”.In the front I see it as fairly easy. Just remove the half shafts and
retain the entire front end. Then hack the chassis as necessary to put the
V12 and TH400 under there, will have to build a transmission hump for sure.
Then in the rear I am sure there will be some cutting in order to get the
thing to sit low enough.Ok, now that I have spilled my guts, whats wrong with the idea other than
all the work? The '85 Seville is just a “knock off” of the Daimler limo
anyway, so you can’t say the styling is bad.Jim“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil
From: RLehman x2576 RLEHMAN@npr.org
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 8:11:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Overheating XJS
Here we go again. The 85XJS is spilling antifreeze after it’s parked, the temp
goes up when sitting in traffic… I’ve tried filling it up, bleeding the
radiator, but it still ejects fluid and the temp goes just above the “N”
It’s got 140K miles on it. Should I go ahead and replace the t-stats to start
with? Is there anything else that I should check first?
Is there an easy test to see if the radiator is shot (deposits…)?
Thanks,
Russ Lehman
“nothing worthwhile is ever easy”
Internet: rlehman@npr.org
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 08:17:22 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: 83 XJ6 Steering Rack Bushings
When I changed the rack bushings on my 82 XJ-S, I found it easier to pull
the entire rack – tie rod ends, rack mounting bolts, pinch bolt on
steering shaft, and two p/s lines – so I could work at my work bench to
remove the old bushings. For me, that was more convenient, and it was no
trouble removing and reinstalling the rack.
I believe that Michael Neal, on the other hand, who has done this
probably dozens of times, can do it on the lift with the rack hanging
from the tie rods in minutes. (Michael, I am not speaking for you, but
you have described your approach in a number of postings.)
On Mon, 24 Jun 1996 chatmans@ext.missouri.edu wrote:
Mine need to be replaced, and I am hoping for some elementary instruction. I've tried Haynes and the Jag-lovers archive but neither had as much detail as I seem to need. I have learned that the after-market bushings are widely preferred and will have a much longer life. I've also learned that stuck bushings can be removed by using a combination of 5/16ths threaded rod and two sockets, one that fits the inside of the housing and one just large enough for the old bushing to slide into (Kirby Palm, Oct, 1995). I've also learned that it's not too bad a job and takes a first-timer about a morning. Could someone please offer a walk-through of sequence and hints? For example, do I need to disconnect the ball joints? Do they need to be driven out? Should they be disconnected before the bushing bolts? How much fluid will drain out? Et cetera, et cetera. I understand that this is a common problem and mine certainly are bad. In fact, they're basically gone. Much TIA as always. Steve Chatman, Columbia, Missouri.
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 08:28:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Jag tool kit? (1988 XJ-S)
The ‘toolkit’ on the XJ-S in question is comprised of a bag, jack, lug
wrench, etc. One of the goodies in there was the plug wrench. A PO even
added some non-stock wrenches.
On Tue, 25 Jun 1996, Mike Cogswell wrote:
The following snippet raises a question for me …
I have found that the stock Jag spark plug wrench from the tool kit will
remove the front plugs OK, without removing the compressor. This was on
an 82 XJ-S HE.Does this mean that the '82 XJ-S came with a tool kit? If so, does anyone
know when (if) the toolkit was dropped as a standard item? My '88 XJ-S did
not come with a tool kit, only a jack. Does this mean the dealer ripped me
off 8 years ago? Or was the kit simply omitted from the US Market cars on
the theory that most American Jag buyers wouldn’t know what to do with them
anyway . . . ?MikeC m.cogswell@zds.com
'74 E-Type OTS (with tool roll)
'88 XJ-S (H&E Convertible) (with no tool kit!)
'88 Honda Accord (335,000 miles and climbing) (doesn’t need tools)
'91 Chevy Suburban (when you really need the room)
'96 Honda Accord (hope it lasts as long as the '88)
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 08:37:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: S2 XJ-6/12/parts/free
I replied to this message, but don’t know if it was ever posted (recent
mail server problems) so I am replying again.
I am very interested in the instrument panel, for my personal use!, and
would appreciate it if it is still available.
Thanks.
On Fri, 21 Jun 1996, Mark McChesney wrote:
HI ALL,
A friend of mine just gave me a set of S2 XJ-12 front hubs/calipers/spindle
supports (uprights) to use in my E-type brake/susp upgrade (don’t try this
w/out GTJ steering arms!).He also gave me some parts that I don’t need…
- upper & lower front A-arms (very clean)
- steering arms (also clean)
- complete instiment panel w/ gauges, swiches, a/c vents etc. -wood ok but
varnish lifting at corners (no dash top or console)If anyone needs these (and isn’t just going to sell them) E-mail me and you can
have them - we’ll work out shipping. Or I’ll be at Mid-Ohio 6-21 (tomorrow)Mark McChesney mmcchesn@ford.com
we had a nice V-12 too but thats gone.
-what these parts WERE going to be used for is an interesting story…
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 08:38:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Jag Vacuum Climate Routing
I am resending this message because recent mail server problems may have
interfered with its original posting.
On Thu, 20 Jun 1996, John Napoli wrote:
The vacuum lines on my 82 XJ-S from the engine to (and including) the
selector switch and servo seem to have been fiddled with, presumably by
the PO. Non-stock looking vacuum hose and a bunch of adapters and
connectors – and one factory hard black plastic vacuum line that doesn’t
connect to anything – are the tip-offs. Since I will soon (finally!)
have the time to complete the work on my climate control system,
I want to make sure I have all the information I need to quickly
complete the job.My manuals don’t show the stock vacuum line routing for the climate
control. Everything ‘downstream’ of the switch and servo seems untouched
and original (except for that one black line). Could you provide me with a
description of the vacuum line routing to and from the switch and servo?
I’d appreciate any guidance.Thanks very much.
Regards,
John
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 08:45:14 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Denver Trip Planned
I will be in Denver, Colorado on business from July 8 thru 12.
If possible, I would like to meet any jag-lovers in the area and/or
attend any jag activities that might be scheduled. Are there any jag
places that should be visited (dealers, junkyards, etc)?
Thanks.
Regards,
John
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 26 Jun 96 10:33:01 EDT
Subject: Re: 67 xke - crow engineering
Hi bob,
I dont know crow eng, but doing an engine job right there and then at your house
I think you can forget.
I can’t imagine them to be able to do all the possibly required engineering.
They would almost definately have to cut corners.
Can’t reach them by telephone ? - for get them. You definately dont want to have
trouble with such potentially “fast jobs guys”.
Don’t be afraid to pay up to 50% more for a job at a very well known restorer
(on the engine) - If you have trouble just once on the “first” try with a less
professional restorer, that will immediately be more expensive - believe me - I
have burned the fingers a few times.
5000$ for an engine job is possibly far too much anyway. If it is for the whole
car it is car to cheap
Sound like you should avoid these “engineers” …
regards Jeffrey Gram
From: zlozower@primenet.com (neil zlozower)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 08:38:07 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Japanese classic cars
Hi Jag Lovers
Since there is so much talk about “classic cars” from various countries, I
had to add my two cents in and give the Japanese market my vote for what I
think is their “coolest” classic sports car!! That would have to go hands
down to the Toyota 2000!!! Has anyone out there ever seen one?? I have seen
many and they are georgeous!!!
The above is only my opinion!!
Zloz
64 XKE roadster
From: jorgen@tvnorge.no (Jorgen Scheel)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 17:39:16 +0100
Subject: XJS rear axle on a MK1? Reply for Ted Trim
Ted - mailing to your adress keeps bouncing (host unknown). Maybe our problem?
Anyway here is my reply to you in public…
I don’t know what that respective track widths of the XJS and Mk1 are, but
the Mk1 will be significantly narrower. (I can look it up at home if required).
However, the X-JS rear subframe assembly is closely related to the E-type rear
and that was fitted to the S-type, a close descendant of the Mk1 - can you get
to look at an S-type? or 420? The parts book may help to identify what panels
were changed at the back.
I dont really know of any S-types around, but I dont think the S-type is any
wider than the Mk2, and I know Ryan Border fitted a Mk2 rear axle to his
Mk1. I have also seen some postings regarding wheels/tires stating that the
Mk2 can not use any wider than 195 tires, my Mk1 has 205 and thats not a
problem. At least that indicates there is some space there…
An interesting project, let us know how (if!) it goes.
I have had some similar(good) experience with my Range Rover.
I bought a trashed -91 Land Rover Discovery Tdi for nothing. Got it home
pulled my -78 tired Range Rover apart. Everything from the Discovery fitted
right in (except rear seats and roof stuff). The dashboard, gearbox, engine
(new mounts only), steering box/wheel, heater/cooler. Everything bolt on.
The fire wall was identical (used it for rust repair). Of course no one at
Land Rover can confirm this…
This all has to do with (I suspect) being able to use up all the parts in
stock/manufacturing equip, even though they stop making a model. (Range
Rover Classic).
Mr. Lyons being such a pennywise chap might have had some of the same
philosophy?
It would really be a good help if you had the books to see it in, because I
have to make a quick move. There is a guy selling an axle cheap…
I`ll keep the list informed if it works out! (next summer…)
MK1 -59
jorgen@tvnorge.no
From: “White, Dick” white@msgate.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 11:58:00 -0400
Subject: RE: Wood Trim matching
David,
I always assumed that the sun would bleach or lighten the wood, however
on my '64 S-Type it seems to have done the opposite. I bought this car
in '79 when it was 15 years old and had about 70k miles on it. The dash
had a lot of cracks in the finish. Cracks down to the wood. I had the
wood stripped by a professional (furniture) and re-applied the varnish
myself. When I received the dash back , it had very distinguishable
dark lines it in where the cracks were. So I assume either the sun
turned it darker over the years or the process used by the furniture
refinisher turned it darker. The only thing I know about the process is
that it was dipped in a tank.
I decided to varnish over the dark stripes because I thought it gave the
dash some character and an antique look. Besides I was afraid if I
tried to sand it off I might sand all the way through the veneer.
Sorry, I can’t help with the other questions; not that I really helped
with this one.
Dick White
Columbia, SC
'64 3.8 S-Type
'58 XK 150 FHC
From: david_gruber@fmc.com
- How does the wood trim change with age? Does it lighten or change tint as
the varnish ages?
Many thanks,
Dave
From: justinb@Okway.okstate.edu (Justin Beightol)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 11:53:18 -0500
Subject: First Post – Howdy! – Door Locks
A good old Oklahoma Howdy to everyone!
I'm the proud owner of a near perfect 1987 Jaguar XJ6.
I have all of the schematics for the car, but haven't found a way to
actually get to the wires without taking a lot of panels off. Are the
panels attached the standard way and just need a panel popper to take
them off or is there something funny about them.
The problem I have is the door locks. They don't function. In
service records there is an entry that the previous owner took the car
in for that reason and they replace a fuse and fixed a bad connector
at the front left door. I opened the panel by the front left door and
it all looked stock to me. Has anyone else had a problem with the
door locks? If so, what did you have to do to fix them? Any common
things to check.
BTW, this is my first Jaguar, I just parted with a 1985 Isuzu Impluse
and don't think I will ever go back to a rice burner or another car
after driving this one! They definitely have my vote for best looking
car on the road!
Thanks!
Justin Beightol
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 12:24:45 -0500
Subject: Electrical definition – relays
Perhaps my earlier query was masked by the XJ40 reference in the subject line.
I don’t know what relays are, and their function. I have found them in the
car, I think, but see so many threads related to them and malfunctions that
I would love to learn their function, purpose, etc.
Thanks
Scott Phillips
'88 XJ40
From: “Owens, Adam J.” uscuc8hc@ibmmail.com
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 14:00:23 EDT
Subject: NO SUBJECT
Date: 1996-06-26 13:53
Priority:
Michael P. Neal writes
I’ve never seen or heard of a 5 speed SIII XJ6 being imported into
the states by Jaguar Cars of North America.
I know of one original Series III 5-speed US car. Stew Jones (of Stew Jones
Restoration in Connecticut - 1995 JCNA Concours national winner 1974 E
Roadster) owns it and his wife Karen ran it in the JANE slalom back on June
- The car came from Ohio and is a genuine US car that came with the 5 speed
and pepperpot wheels. Talking with Stew and Karen that day they said they
have only heard of 1 other true US spec stick sedan. They said they will
show the car (it’s beautiful)
and it is for sale. Anyone interested should call Stew Jones Restorations
(203) 379-1534. I have no personal interest in either the business or this
car.
Best
A.J. Owens
1985 XJ-6 Series III (auto)
1982 Harley Davidson FXRS (this one’s a 5-speed!)
From: Curt Onstott onstottc@ucs.orst.edu
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 11:26:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Beer Contest. (Was XJ6 seized engine.)
I’ve got a six pack of Pyramid Ale for the first person to correctly guess
what caused my XJ6 SII engine to seize. Non-US entrants must pay postage.
I finally got around to confirming that the engine on my XJ6 did indeed
seize. I had to remove the radiator and shroud, so that I coud get my 1
5/16 inch wrench onto the pulley bolt.
It seized last Thursday as I was driving home from work. I was
decelerating to pull onto my street and the engine died. (No nasty noises
either.) When I went to restart it the Starter would not turn it at all.
I wish that it had been an electrical problem like a bad ground!
The oil pressure and temperature were fine, about three minutes before it
happened. The car ran beutifully for 150 miles. (It was only getting 8
miles per gallon though.)
I’ve started the task of removing the engine in order to perform an
autopsy. I’ve got a few theories:
-
The cylinders were not bored out enough. (How much clearance should
there be for .030 oversize pistons?) -
The headgasket blew and was “steam cleaning” a cylinder causing it to
seize from poor lubrication. -
Blockage in an oil line?
- -To err is human. To err faster and more efficiently requires a computer.-
Curt Onstott - Windows/DOS/PC Specialist - Information Services - Oregon
State University. - (541) 737-1483 - Office: Kerr 217
From: “Richard.Mansell” Richard.Mansell@psemail.ps.net
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 19:52:00 +0100
Subject: Jag tool kit? (1988 XJ-S)
- ---------------------------- Forwarded with Changes
From: /S=owner-jag-lovers@sn.no/O=SMTP/P=PSC/A=MCI/C=US/ at ccx400uk
Date: 6/25/96 3:19PM
To: Richard Mansell at Not-Cop5
*cc: /S=jag-lovers@sn.no/O=SMTP/P=PSC/A=MCI/C=US/ at ccx400uk
Subject: Jag tool kit? (1988 XJ-S)
Message authorized by:
: /S=M.Cogswell@zds.com/O=SMTP/P=PSC/A=MCI/C=US/ at ccx400uk
Mike
I have just bought an 89 5.3 XJ-S and it came with a tool kit
containing spanners, screw drivers, spare fuses, plug wrench etc. etc.
Another 89 I looked at had the same kit so I assume it is original.
Richard
______________________________ Forward Header
Subject: Jag tool kit? (1988 XJ-S)
Author: /S=owner-jag-lovers@sn.no/O=SMTP/P=PSC/A=MCI/C=US/ at ccx400uk
Date: 25/06/96 15:19
The following snippet raises a question for me …
I have found that the stock Jag spark plug wrench from the tool kit will
remove the front plugs OK, without removing the compressor. This was on
an 82 XJ-S HE.
Does this mean that the '82 XJ-S came with a tool kit? If so, does anyone
know when (if) the toolkit was dropped as a standard item? My '88 XJ-S did
not come with a tool kit, only a jack. Does this mean the dealer ripped me
off 8 years ago? Or was the kit simply omitted from the US Market cars on
the theory that most American Jag buyers wouldn’t know what to do with them
anyway . . . ?
MikeC m.cogswell@zds.com
'74 E-Type OTS (with tool roll)
'88 XJ-S (H&E Convertible) (with no tool kit!)
'88 Honda Accord (335,000 miles and climbing) (doesn’t need tools)
'91 Chevy Suburban (when you really need the room)
'96 Honda Accord (hope it lasts as long as the '88)
From: wje@fir.esd.sgi.com (William J. Earl)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 13:28:40 -0700
Subject: Re: Original Series III 5-speed US car
Adam J. Owens writes:
…
Michael P. Neal writes
I’ve never seen or heard of a 5 speed SIII XJ6 being imported into
the states by Jaguar Cars of North America.
I know of one original Series III 5-speed US car. Stew Jones (of Stew Jones
Restoration in Connecticut - 1995 JCNA Concours national winner 1974 E
Roadster) owns it and his wife Karen ran it in the JANE slalom back on June
- The car came from Ohio and is a genuine US car that came with the 5 speed
and pepperpot wheels. Talking with Stew and Karen that day they said they
have only heard of 1 other true US spec stick sedan. They said they will
show the car (it’s beautiful)
and it is for sale. Anyone interested should call Stew Jones Restorations
(203) 379-1534. I have no personal interest in either the business or this
car.
…
I called Mr. Jones (who is very pleasant to talk with and obviously
a driving enthusiast), and asked about the history of his car. It turns out
that it was orignally sold in Holland, and reportedly imported by an Egyptian
diplomat. It has a completely clear Connecticut title, but it is essentially
equivalent to a gray market import.
Mr. Jones said that the Series III sedans with 5-speed transmissions
were never imported by Jaguar Cars, due to the requirements for separate
crash and emissions tests for them, coupled with the expected low rate of
sales. BMW used to offer their 7-series sedans with a 5-speed transmission,
but stopped doing so around 1989, for similar reasons.
From: nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu (Nikolai Chitaev)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 15:55:59 -0600
Subject: Re: Beer Contest. (Was XJ6 seized engine.)
I’ve got a six pack of Pyramid Ale for the first person to correctly guess
what caused my XJ6 SII engine to seize. Non-US entrants must pay postage.
I finally got around to confirming that the engine on my XJ6 did indeed
seize. I had to remove the radiator and shroud, so that I coud get my 1
5/16 inch wrench onto the pulley bolt.It seized last Thursday as I was driving home from work. I was
decelerating to pull onto my street and the engine died. (No nasty noises
either.) When I went to restart it the Starter would not turn it at all.
I wish that it had been an electrical problem like a bad ground!The oil pressure and temperature were fine, about three minutes before it
happened. The car ran beutifully for 150 miles. (It was only getting 8
miles per gallon though.)I’ve started the task of removing the engine in order to perform an
autopsy. I’ve got a few theories:
The cylinders were not bored out enough. (How much clearance should
there be for .030 oversize pistons?)The headgasket blew and was “steam cleaning” a cylinder causing it to
seize from poor lubrication.Blockage in an oil line.
Not for beer, but for fun, whlist having beer would be also fine.
I think, that you had a VERY LOW oil. Fast braking coused oil to slip in
the front of oil pan, and an air babble was introguced into oil lines. The
amount of air was sufficient to couse an engine to size. This doesnt contradict the fact that you saw a "normal" oli pressure, since oil pressure doesnt reflect its amount.
Nikolai A. Chitaev, PhD.
<<87`XJ6 4.2L, EFI, BRG>>
{nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu}
{http://128.252.119.253}
St.Louis, Missouri, USA
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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 27 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 171
Re: Engine XJS Wanted
RE: Beer Contest. (Was XJ6 seized engine.)
re: Electrical definition – relays
Re: Beer Contest. (Was XJ6 seized engine.)
Re: Japanese classic cars
right angle speedo drive
JAGUAR XJ6 BRAKES
Re: Japanese classic cars
Re: Japanese classic cars
new member
89 XJ-S flat-spot
XJS axle on Mk1
jag-lovers-digest V2 #170
Re: Overheating XJS
Re: greetings
XJ6 S3 Door Locks
RE: Mk2 Paint question
Bad-running 1985 XJ6 Update
Re: Overheating XJS
From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 15:19:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Engine XJS Wanted
- –IMA.Boundary.707328538
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Description: cc:Mail note part
There is an XJ-S V-12 in the most recent Hemmings Motor News (June?).
Complete, including engine mounted accessories for $5000. Supposedly only
20 miles on it. I’d look it up and tell you more, but I airmailed my copy
to a New Zealand list member so he could get an idea of classic car prices
here in the US for a trip he’s planning.
MikeC
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Engine XJS Wanted
Author: GFoster737@gnn.com (Gerald Foster) at INTERNET
Date: 06/25/96 11:21 PM
Anyone have a good used V12 HE engine for 86 XJS? E-Mail with condition and
prices.
Prefer complete engine as removed but will consider all offers. Would
appreciate some leads on sources for this engine. I have the Jag listing of
parts suppliers but want to save some time and phone calls. Prefer Eastern USA
location. Will be parting out my engine if anyone needs miscell parts from it.
- –IMA.Boundary.707328538–
From: “Lauren E. Pratt” pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 96 15:10:16 PDT
Subject: RE: Beer Contest. (Was XJ6 seized engine.)
Curt
Sorry to hear about your seized engine. Did you say in your
first post that the engine had a recent overhaul. If so, may
be stuck pistons. I overhauled a Austin Healey many years
ago and the machine shop fit the pistons to tight. I had 2
pistons gaul the cylinder walls, but the engine did not seize.
It just felt like some one was standing on the brakes while I
was on the gas. As soon as I let up on the gas the engine turned
free again. During the first 500 miles I had a quart of Rislone
in with the oil and had no problem. After the oil change with
out the Rislone I stuck the pistons right away.
I am working on a 4.2 engine that a PO started to rebuild. It has
new .030 pistons for it, but this time his machine shop fit
the pistons with .005 to .008 skirt clearance which I believe
is way too much for a cast piston. The Jag manual calls for
.0007 to .0013, which seems tight to me. Around .002, maybe.
Keep us informed as to what you find, and what should the skirt
clearance really be? Anyone?
Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 6/26/96
Time: 3:10:16 PM
This message was sent by Chameleon
From: pbrown@sbnsw.com.au
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 96 18:53:44 ���
Subject: re: Electrical definition – relays
“Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net Wrote:
|
| Perhaps my earlier query was masked by the XJ40 reference
| in the subject line.
|
| I don’t know what relays are, and their function. I have
| found them in the
| car, I think, but see so many threads related to them and
| malfunctions that
| I would love to learn their function, purpose, etc.
|
| Thanks
|
| Scott Phillips
| '88 XJ40
|
|
Scott,
I shan’t pretend to be an authority on this, but here’s what I do know:
Relays comprise a circuit which, when energised, causes one or more sets of
contacts to open or close. It usually does this through electromagnetic
induction (if you have seen the internals of an electric doorbell, you’ll have
an idea). This function can give rise to some uses:
(i) A small current flow can be used to induce a large current flow. Let’s
assume you wish to drive a circuit which will draw 200 amps. For a switch to
handle this it would need to be big and unwieldy. Furthermore, the wires going
to and from it would need a 200 amp capacity (big and thick). This problem can
be solved by using a relay which may draw only 1 amp to acutate it (hence the
wires and switch need to be only 1 amp) while the relay’s internals for the
switched contacts can be the big, meaty 200 amp buggers. The starter solenoid
is an example of this. This solution also prevents undue attenuation of the
current by reducing the length of the cable runs (which introduce resistance
into the circuit).
(ii) Relays can operate as logic gates. If you want one switch to have two
actions, energising one circuit which is normally open and de-energising
another which is normally closed (on) this can be achieved by using two relays
or a multifunction relay. This makes the switch internals significantly
simpler to design.
Hope this helps. You can buy relays from Radio Shack for a couple of bucks,
get a test lamp and a battery and have a bit of a fiddle to give you
‘hands-on’ experience.
Regards
Peter Brown
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 19:27:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Beer Contest. (Was XJ6 seized engine.)
8 MPG? Were you dumping gas into the crankcase, thinning it and motor
seized? Is there a gas smell in the oil?
On Wed, 26 Jun 1996, Curt Onstott wrote:
I’ve got a six pack of Pyramid Ale for the first person to correctly guess
what caused my XJ6 SII engine to seize. Non-US entrants must pay postage.
I finally got around to confirming that the engine on my XJ6 did indeed
seize. I had to remove the radiator and shroud, so that I coud get my 1
5/16 inch wrench onto the pulley bolt.It seized last Thursday as I was driving home from work. I was
decelerating to pull onto my street and the engine died. (No nasty noises
either.) When I went to restart it the Starter would not turn it at all.
I wish that it had been an electrical problem like a bad ground!The oil pressure and temperature were fine, about three minutes before it
happened. The car ran beutifully for 150 miles. (It was only getting 8
miles per gallon though.)I’ve started the task of removing the engine in order to perform an
autopsy. I’ve got a few theories:
The cylinders were not bored out enough. (How much clearance should
there be for .030 oversize pistons?)The headgasket blew and was “steam cleaning” a cylinder causing it to
seize from poor lubrication.Blockage in an oil line?
-To err is human. To err faster and more efficiently requires a computer.-
Curt Onstott - Windows/DOS/PC Specialist - Information Services - Oregon
State University. - (541) 737-1483 - Office: Kerr 217
From: REMANKING@aol.com
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 20:00:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Japanese classic cars
That is a Datsun 2000 not Toyota.
From: jshuck@localnet.com
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 96 20:35:51 PDT
Subject: right angle speedo drive
take that small piece out…go to a speedo repair shop and have the guy cut
you a small piece of cable, abouth 4 inches long. Now have them square the
piece of cable with a big hammer device. Then cut it to length.
Bingo…$.50 repair…John Shuck, Westport, Conn,
From: carfindr@tiac.net (CARFINDERS USA)
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 22:24:37 -0400
Subject: JAGUAR XJ6 BRAKES
Dear all,
I wonder if anyone may be able to help me with an XJ6 problem.
I recently overhauled the brake master cylinder, re-installed it back in the
car and now I have no fluid getting past it to the brake lines. Should I
have ‘bench-bled’ it? and if so-how? If I shouldn’t have to bench bleed it
what do you think the problem could be? I’m
fairly certain that I reassembled it correctly - any help you can give would
be appreciated.
P.S. Please e-mail me directly as I do not receive the list regularly.
regards,
Jeff. e-mail: carfindr@tiac.net
From: R.R.Thomas@chem.utas.edu.au (Rick Thomas)
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 12:49:09 +1100
Subject: Re: Japanese classic cars
That is a Datsun 2000 not Toyota.
The Datsun 2000 was an ugly/boxy copy of an "MGB ".
The Toyota 2000 was a GT. This was a sensual copy of the “E” Type Jag.
I agree that the Toyota 2000 GT was one of the best looking vehicles ever to
be produced by Japan.
I still was one of their original car brochures. There were soft and hard
top versions. A soft top was featured in one of the James Bond films.
Rick. Thomas.
From: Robert Hyndman bhyndman@niia.net
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 22:20:26 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Japanese classic cars
At 08:00 PM 6/26/96 -0400, you wrote:
That is a Datsun 2000 not Toyota.
I believe Zloz is correct it is a Toyota 2000 GT. I have a sportscar book
called “The Ultimate Classic Car Book” which shows a very nice picture of a
car which looks somewhat like a cross between an E-type and a Ferrari GTO.
337autos were produced 1965-'68, powered by a Yamaha inline DOHC six.
Bob
From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 1996 22:02:17 +0700
Subject: new member
Hi everyone. I’m Greg Price, and I’ve just purchased a second-owner 1985
XJ6 VDP. It’s my first Jag and I’m constantly on the lookout for
any helpful information on service, maintenance, repairs, warnings,
etc. I like to do my own servicing whenever possible (read: whenever
I don’t have to spend a small fortune on specialty tools). My car is
in pretty good shape structurally and mechanically, but needs a paint
job (is Glassurit paint OK?), a main seal and some electrical work
Does anyone have a great write-up on the low-tension ignition
circuit? I’ve heard that you can replace a blown electronic ignition amplifier
with a GM unit, but I’ve also heard that you must modify the GM unit
with a diode or some such. Is this true? Details? Can you adapt
and use a GM distributor pickup as well?
I’m glad I’ve found a group of like-minded owners, and if you are
planning to come to Santa Fe, email me and I’ll tell you the good
places to eat!
G. W. Price & Company, Ltd
Probabilistic Record Linkage Services
Consultants in survey research and program evaluation
gprice@rt66.com
From: “Greg Madison (ART)” madison@arts.usf.edu
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 02:16:24 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: 89 XJ-S flat-spot
Hello all,
I am new to the list and live in Florida (work/student at the University
of South Florida). I have an 89 XJ-S thats about 71,000 miles old.
The car (over the past year) slowly developed a flat spot around 3,500 rpm
after coming up to normal operating temp (this information is
from the PO: I’ve only had this car for 3 weeks). After it warmed up it
couldn’t be pushed passed this point and would rev no higher. Over the
last 4 days this “flat spot” has gotten flatter: It has now dropped to
1500 rpm (around 40 MPH, not fun on the freeway). I can see this “limit”
drop as the car warms up. When cold (and lukewarm) it runs smooth and
has no flat spot at all. Acceleration is good (except for that mushy
GM400 thingy). As the water temp gauge reaches about a quarter of its
scale,
engine will only rev to 3500rpm. By the time the engine has reached
normal operating temp, can only make it to 1500 RPM. Under the
1500RPM limit the throttle is still very responsive. At the limit, engine
starts running rough and it usually backfires one time. Idle is smooth
and stays at the correct speed, hot or cold engine. Car does not seem to
be overheating and the gauge runs at the bottom of the “N” while driving
and at the top of the “N” when at idle (in 93F ambient temp at 85-95%
humidity). There are never any boiling sounds or coolant spraying out
after stopping the engine. The car passed its state emissions test 3
weeks ago (22ppm HC, .20% CO)
As long as the engine is hot it won’t rev passed these limits while
driving or in neutral.
The PO recently changed the distributor (Marelli ignition), fuel filter
and all the engine sensors (except MAP). His mechanic and some guy at a
discount muffler shop think the catalyst need replacing. The muffler shop
person wants to drill holes in the exhaust system to check for pressure
drop.
I found one of the butterfly shaft bushings missing and replaced
it/adjusted the throttles (thanks to Kirby Palm for his excellent and
downloadable book of experience).
I really don’t want someone from a chain muffler shop drilling holes in my
car.
The question is: Does this sound like a catalytic converter problem to
anyone? If so, is there a way I can test for this myself (without
drilling holes)? Someone spot welded the front components of the exhaust
systems together so I may have to replace the whole thing if the cats are
bad.
regards,
Greg
From: “Alastar W. Lauener” bu08@central.napier.ac.uk
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 11:52:51 +0100
Subject: XJS axle on Mk1
I am not sure who is contemplating this, but be assured that the rear end of
the Mk1 Mk2 is very very different from the XJ-S and S-Types etc being
contemplated. Basically, on all IRS cars, the rear chassis and mount points
are very different from Mk1 Mk2 etc. You are talking major surgery.
I don’t know if this has ever even been done by the specialists?
Vicarage perhaps?
- Alastair Lauener Work Phone +44 131 455 2458 *
- Chief Technician Fax +44 131 455 2267 *
- Department of Building & Surveying Home Phone +44 1577 864242 *
- Napier University, Edinburgh EH10 5DT a.lauener@central.napier.ac.uk *
- 1964 3.4 S-Type story at http://www.sn.no/home/nick/alas.html *
From: Felts_Thomas_L/atc_mail5-id@mail5-id.atc.alcoa.com
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 96 07:43:09 -0400
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #170
Re: Engine rebuild (Crow Eng) I know nothing about these folks, but
wanted to give you my story re: engine rebuild. I had my 66 E engine
“TOTALLY” rebuilt by H & B Auto in Jennette, Pa–outside Pittsburgh.
Excellent job, at 1/2 the cost of what they quote. H&B also has full
machining services for those inevitable machining needs. I’m sure many
others have similiar stories to tell.
Tom
From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 08:17:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Overheating XJS
These cars have a tendency to acculualate loads of shit between the
A/C condenser and the front of the radiator. That is one likely cause.
There is nothing wrong with replacing t-stats if they are old but
if you want to know whether they are the cause of your problem
you can put them in a pot of water and monitor the temp at which they
open/close. Since they are easy to get at you may as well start
with this, but be prepared to find that they work perfectly and
plan on going on to the next step.
Thomas E. Alberts
Here we go again. The 85XJS is spilling antifreeze after it’s parked, the temp
goes up when sitting in traffic… I’ve tried filling it up, bleeding the
radiator, but it still ejects fluid and the temp goes just above the “N”It’s got 140K miles on it. Should I go ahead and replace the t-stats to start
with? Is there anything else that I should check first?Is there an easy test to see if the radiator is shot (deposits…)?
From: Jim Young jyoung@cmc.doe.CA
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 08:40:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: greetings
Hello everybody,
I just wanted to say hello from Toronto, Canada after signing onto this list.
Last night, I test drove a new XJ6. It was the first time I drove any
Jag and I must say, the driveability is very good. I took it through,
side streets, up and down hills, out onto the highway and of course
and nice tight off ramp. Presently, I’m driving an RX-7 and I was
expecting quite a bit more roll in the tight turn but was quickly
surprised to the Jag’s tight feel.
Does anyone have any word on the reliability of the new Jags?
I’ve read up on the Jag-lover’s web page, and it seems to contain
only info regarding the older models.
Cheers,
-
- Jim Young (jyoung@cmc.doe.ca)
From: david_gruber@fmc.com (DAVID GRUBER)
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 09:30:44 -0500
Subject: XJ6 S3 Door Locks
Justin -
<<I’m the proud owner of a near perfect 1987 Jaguar XJ6.>>
Same here - '87 XJ6 (Stock #583) Solent Blue/Biscuit.
<<Has anyone else had a problem with the door locks? If so, what did you have
to do to fix them? Any common things to check.>>
I had trouble with the control of the electric locks from the inside driver’s
door. You didn’t say what type of trouble you’re having, so it’s hard to
advise:
- -is there no electrical activity when you turn the key switch?
- -how about the interior lock?
- -is the failure intermittant or complete?
For me, it was an intermittant failure due to the internal linkage in the
driver’s door panel - the key switch would always work, the interior lock was
dead. After removing the interior door panel and adjusting the linkage rods
(and spraying some lubricant on the pieces, it works fine now.
You get to the actuator inside the driver’s door and test to see if it’s getting
power or if it just isn’t being mechanically activated.
Regards,
Dave
From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 16:13 +0200
Subject: RE: Mk2 Paint question
Hello, Nick, my Daimler is the same colour (a kind of reddish metallic=20
brown) and the paintshop could not find the reference either. So they looked=20=
at an unfaded part of the car (under the brightwork on the B post) and mixed=20=
the paint themselves. Of course that had to be done before taking all the=20
old paint off. I find that my new paint is a bit browner than the original=20
colour but this is no problem. I think that BMW and many other makes of=20
modern cars have a very similar colour.
Also congratulations on the website for the North Cape Rally. I enjoyed it a=20=
lot. Did you use a digital camera? The pictures turned out very well. A pity=20=
about the weather though.
Regards, Frans.
A question from a local club member:
He has a Mk2 that needs new paint. The original colour is
called “opalescent maroon”. None of the local paint-guys
can find this in their books, and therefore can’t mix up
a batch for him.Does anyone have a recipe that might be right?
Nick
<<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>>
<<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>>The JagWeb http://www.sn.no/~nick/jaguar.html <<<
=20
From: William F Trimble trimbwf@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 09:19:35 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Bad-running 1985 XJ6 Update
Dear Jag-Lovers:
I’ve finally been able to catch my breath and provide the list
with a summary of developments in regard to my XJ6 and its rich-running
problem from a couple of months ago. The diagnostic procedure was long
and frustrating. At various points we–Larry Lee, Rick the Mechanic, and
I–thought we had found the problem, and at each stage what we thought
was the fix turned out not to be. At one point we were pretty sure that
the evaporative emission system was the culprit. Then we thought it was
the ECU and/or connections with the wiring harness. A rebuilt ECU and
lots of fiddling with the connections made the car run worse. Finally,
Rick the Mechanic said that he just wanted to live with the car for a
while. I said fine–I had my trusty 1973 MGB GT to rely on anyway.
After several days–during which the car would run fine one day
and crud up the next–Rick said he found the problem. It turned out to
be a clip on the air cleaner that was periodically contacting one of the
wires leading to the ballast resistor. A year or so ago, I had coil
problems and it dawned on Rick and me that the aftermarket coils from
SICP needed to have ballast resistors fitted to them. We did so,
locating the resistor on the inner fender beneath the air cleaner. There
was plenty of clearance, unless the air cleaner was rotated slightly so that
one of the three clips, which protrude about 3/4 in. from the body of the
air cleaner, bumps the wire. I had rotated the cleaner when I replaced
it following the thermostat replacement episode. Rick found the
problem when he decided that the problem couldn’t be on the injection
side (we had replaced everything) and that the rich running problem was
so much like ones that had occurred as a result of bad coils. So the
fault had to be somewhere on the ignition side. He began tracing wires and
leads and found it right away.
Story over? No. The car ran fine for a week or so and then
returned to running rich. Back to Rick with much head-scratching and
general feelings of resignation and frustration. “We thought we
had it.” Rick wanted to live with car for a while again. I said OK. A
couple of days later he called to say that he’d fixed it. The problem
this time was dirty battery connections. He discovered one day that the
car was running fine until he slammed the hood, and it immediately began
to run rough and blow out black smoke. Bad connection somewhere. He
detached and cleaned the battery terminals, and all was well.
Lessons for Jag owners: (1) There is no substitute for a close
visual insepction of everything. All the manuals say this, and it seems
so basic, but it’s easy with these complex cars to overlook the obvious.
(2) Modifications from original can cause problems. My ballast resistor
installation is not original, and it was at least partially culpable. (3)
Make sure all electrical connections are clean and tight. The ECU is
dealing with very low voltages; many of these cars are 10, 12, 15 years
old, and it doesn’t take much corrosion to slow those electrons down.
So, I’m a few months older, a good deal wiser about my Jag, a
little poorer, and I have an excellent collection of good used parts for
Series III electrical and fuel injection systems.
Bill Trimble
Auburn, Alabama
From: Peter Carpenter afp332@bangor.ac.uk
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 15:26:21 +0100 (BST)
Subject: Re: Overheating XJS
I admit I have forgotten the first message about this one. I had a TVR
that idled at ok temp with an electric fan. It drove fast at ok temp. But
after driving fast and slowing down the temp went right over and the rad.
lost fluid. A new water pump didn’t make any difference. A temp gauge on
the outlet of the radiator showed very well cooled water. The problem
turned out to be a partly blocked rad that was passing enough water when
idling to keep cool, and was getting enough air at speed to keep THE WATER
at a reasonable temperature, but the engine itself was building up a
reserve that on slowing down, the rad/fan couldn’t cope.
Just a thought…
Peter Carpenter
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #171
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X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest
jag-lovers-digest Friday, 28 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 172
Re: Japanese classic cars
New Member-responses
Air Comnpressor question
Missing Keys
Re: Denver Trip Planned
Re: New Member-responses
Re: Beer Contest/Siezed Engine
JAGUAR XJ6 BRAKES
Re: Air Comnpressor / V12 spark plug thread size
Re: 89 XJ-S flat-spot
Re: JAGUAR XJ6 BRAKES
XJ-S rack bushing removal
Re: Air Comnpressor question
Re: Air Comnpressor / V12 spark plug thread size
[XJ40 '92 3.2] What bits should I replace in the front end suspension ?
Jaguar Factory Tours
83 XJ6-exhaust system questions
Re: 83 XJ6-exhaust system questions
Re: Electrical definition – relays
Re: Japanese classic cars - MGB copy - NOT!
V12 rotor & cap question
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 10:31:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Japanese classic cars
On Jun 26, 8:00pm, REMANKING@aol.com wrote:
Subject: Re: Japanese classic cars
That is a Datsun 2000 not Toyota.
– End of excerpt from REMANKING@aol.com
Is it a Toyota 3000? I’m sure he wasn’t talking about the Datsun 2000.
Mark
From: Jag140@aol.com
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 11:02:15 -0400
Subject: New Member-responses
I’m a new member and really enjoy the information I’ve received! I would
like to offer a few comments on questions posed…
Curt Onstott offers a six pack for diagnosis of his engine seizure… I
submit a problem with the timing chains/camshafts… if the securing bolt for
the camshaft sprocket comes adrift, it can foul the timing chain and this can
stop the engine right now.
Nick Johannessen requests paint codes for “Opalescent Maroon”… Paint codes
are available, but you may have to call England for these. Some books may
contain these, but mine aren’t readily available… eg. “Original Jaguar XK”,
etc.
Ted Trim asks what fasteners hold the Board above the spare tire in a 68 SII
E Rdstr…
It is a Dzus fastener with a Toggle handle… Like a “speed nut”. It has a
retaining washer below so it won’t fall out when the board is removed, but
yours must have escaped.
Dual fuel tanks and fuel pumps on my 75XJ6L and 60MKIX were used to increase
the trunk space by placing the fuel tanks in the rear wings. Reliability???
We therefore have two fuel pumps that can fail. I would be surprised if an
XJ12 doesn’t have two fuel pumps.
Thanks to you all for the interesting and informative material!! It’s nice
to know that others also enjoy the sublime combination of pain and pleasure
that comes from owning and loving these fine examples of British automotive
art.
Michael Riley
From: Bill Jackson jackson@nprdc.navy.mil
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 08:26:34 -0700
Subject: Air Comnpressor question
A short while ago there was a discussion concerning air compressors and
what size/capacity air compressor is best for home garage use. I want to
get an air compressor for my garage and Sears is having a sale coming
up. The specs on the air comprtessor are listed below.
Would somebody please tell me if it’s adaquate for home usage. This also
means using air tools along with the normal tire attachments.
- 110 or 220 volt capability
- 7.1 SCFM at 90 PSI
- 9.1 SCFM at 40 PSI
- 125 Max PSI
- Oil free direct drive motor
- 5 HP with 30 gal. tank
Bill
From: Jim Van Riper jvr@informix.com
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 10:58:35 -0500
Subject: Missing Keys
My 70 E only has one key. Of course local shops can’t make copies because
they don’t have blanks. This has not been a really big deal but it appears
my 2 year old took the keys out and has hidden them. So I have two questions,
How does one get keys made for a 70 E?
If I can’t find them, what do I do?
Thanks,
jvr
From: “JSHEARER.US.ORACLE.COM” JSHEARER@us.oracle.com
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 96 10:30:53 PDT
Subject: Re: Denver Trip Planned
- –Boundary-14406020-0-0
To John Napoli -
I live in the Denver area and own a 1984 XJ6. I know of an owners group
meeting while you’re here and can find out about other events. Please e-mail
me direct: jshearer@us.oracle.com
Jeff Shearer
- –Boundary-14406020-0-0
X-Orcl-Content-Type: message/rfc822
Sent: 26 Jun 1996 08:45:14
From:"John Napoli " owner-jag-lovers@sn.no
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Denver Trip Planned
X-Orcl-Application: X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers using -f
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I will be in Denver, Colorado on business from July 8 thru 12.
If possible, I would like to meet any jag-lovers in the area and/or
attend any jag activities that might be scheduled. Are there any jag
places that should be visited (dealers, junkyards, etc)?
Thanks.
Regards,
John
- –Boundary-14406020-0-0–
From: Curt Onstott onstottc@ucs.orst.edu
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 10:33:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: New Member-responses
It would be great if this is what happened! It sounds less expensive than
the alternatives! We’ll find out who wins this weekend!
On Thu, 27 Jun 1996 Jag140@aol.com wrote:
I’m a new member and really enjoy the information I’ve received! I would
like to offer a few comments on questions posed…Curt Onstott offers a six pack for diagnosis of his engine seizure… I
submit a problem with the timing chains/camshafts… if the securing bolt for
the camshaft sprocket comes adrift, it can foul the timing chain and this can
stop the engine right now.Nick Johannessen requests paint codes for “Opalescent Maroon”… Paint codes
are available, but you may have to call England for these. Some books may
contain these, but mine aren’t readily available… eg. “Original Jaguar XK”,
etc.Ted Trim asks what fasteners hold the Board above the spare tire in a 68 SII
E Rdstr…
It is a Dzus fastener with a Toggle handle… Like a “speed nut”. It has a
retaining washer below so it won’t fall out when the board is removed, but
yours must have escaped.Dual fuel tanks and fuel pumps on my 75XJ6L and 60MKIX were used to increase
the trunk space by placing the fuel tanks in the rear wings. Reliability???
We therefore have two fuel pumps that can fail. I would be surprised if an
XJ12 doesn’t have two fuel pumps.Thanks to you all for the interesting and informative material!! It’s nice
to know that others also enjoy the sublime combination of pain and pleasure
that comes from owning and loving these fine examples of British automotive
art.Michael Riley
- -To err is human. To err faster and more efficiently requires a computer.-
Curt Onstott - Windows/DOS/PC Specialist - Information Services - Oregon
State University. - (541) 737-1483 - Office: Kerr 217
From: Ed Mellinger meed@mbari.org
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 10:37:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Beer Contest/Siezed Engine
Subject: Re: Beer Contest. (Was XJ6 seized engine.)
8 MPG? Were you dumping gas into the crankcase, thinning it and motor
seized? Is there a gas smell in the oil?
Wouldn’t even have to get to the crankcase or thin the oil, could have
just washed the oil film off the cylinder walls. This is a frequent
consequence of a stuck choke, carb float, or injector (depending on what
your XJ6 has…). I had a close call like this once when a hose clamp
fouled the cold start enrichment lever on an injection pump… luckily
I’d been a cheapskate and just honed (rather than re-bored) the block,
the piston fit was sloppy, and the rings withstood a few miles of
scuffing.
I’d guess that Jag specs those remarkably tight piston/bore fits to keep
noise down (maybe secondarily for blowby/emissions); as an amateur, I’d
be afraid to go for anything tighter than .002 myself…
- -Ed Mellinger
meed@mbari.org
From: carfindr@tiac.net (CARFINDERS USA)
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 14:28:13 -0400
Subject: JAGUAR XJ6 BRAKES
Dear all,
I wonder if anyone may be able to help me with an XJ6 problem.
I recently overhauled the brake master cylinder, re-installed it back in the
car and now I have no fluid getting past it to the brake lines. Should I
have ‘bench-bled’ it? and if so-how? If I shouldn’t have to bench bleed it
what do you think the problem could be? I’m
fairly certain that I reassembled it correctly - any help you can give would
be appreciated.
P.S. Please e-mail me directly as I do not receive the list regularly.
regards,
Jeff. e-mail: carfindr@tiac.net
From: Matthias Fouquet Lapar mfl@cray.com
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 13:55:52 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Air Comnpressor / V12 spark plug thread size
Would somebody please tell me if it’s adaquate for home usage. This also
means using air tools along with the normal tire attachments.
- 110 or 220 volt capability
- 7.1 SCFM at 90 PSI
- 9.1 SCFM at 40 PSI
- 125 Max PSI
- Oil free direct drive motor
- 5 HP with 30 gal. tank
Bill,
I’m living in Paris and bought a compressor last months. It says 1.5HP
and has a 50 ltr tank. I’m this week in the US and when I checked at Sears
for a few SAE tools, I also looked at the compressors. It seems that
HP != HP, my 1.5CV compressor looked exactly as a 3.5 or 4 HP here.
There was also a thread in the auto.tech newsgroup a while ago saying
that HP is not given correctly in most cases.
I heard that oil free compressors might have more trouble, (piston rings,
tank corrosion)
Mine had a hard going valve (made of plastic), so I put on a little
bit of silicon spray. Worked great. Then I browsed through a few JEC
back issues, one talking about “dont’s” : "Never bring silicone even near
a air compressor when it will ever be used for painting. Silicone causes
fish-eyes. Even opening a silicone based wax can 20 feet away will cause
problems …
Something to keep in mind :-).
While I am here, I plan to buy a air impact wrench. I try not to spend to much,
at MalMart I saw a pretty “cheap” one with max 275 lb/ft torque. Is this
enough. Any advice would be appreciated !
I alos plan to get a compression tester, could someone please tell me
what size the spark plugs threads have on the V12 ?
Any fast reply would be really appreciated since I’l go back this weekend
-
- Matthias
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 16:00:58 -0400
Subject: Re: 89 XJ-S flat-spot
It sounds more like a distributor advance problem to me.
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 16:01:58 -0400
Subject: Re: JAGUAR XJ6 BRAKES
I had a similar problem when doing the master cylynder on my XK120 some time
ago. I don’t know how I did it but I installed the check valve backwards.
The symptoms were as you described. Hope this helps. It is more fun to
make them go but it helps if they also stop.
Dave Freeman 1952 XK120 1960 Morgan +4 1953 MGTD
From: “Himes,John W.” jwh@dw.att.com
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 96 13:56:00 PDT
Subject: XJ-S rack bushing removal
Just to add my 2 cents worth, when I changed my rack mount bushings on my 88
XJ-S earlier this year, I was fearful that this would take a long time. The
“book” says 7.1 hours. This must be removing the rack from the car,
replacing bushings, remounting rack, alignment, bla bla bla… What I did
was to drive the car up on 2 ramps, remove the oil filter, removed the 3
bolts that hold the rack in place and let it hang, detach the steering from
the rack. ( You do need to remove the bolt, nut just loosen it. There is a
notch in the gear on the rack that the bold slides through ), . The stock
bushings were flush on one side and maybe a 1mm overhang on the other side.
Using a hammer, hit the side that slightly overhung to loosen it. Then
using a cold chisel ( a screw driver would have worked too ) carefully
tapped out the old bushings. Then I replaced with new Urethane bushings &
reversed the process. I had my wife tell me when the wheels were straight,
then had her turn the steering wheel so it was correct & reconnected the
steering. Dirty work, but not too bad for someone that has never done this
before.
John Himes
88 XJ-S 94K miles
From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 16:09:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Air Comnpressor question
A short while ago there was a discussion concerning air compressors and
what size/capacity air compressor is best for home garage use. I want to
get an air compressor for my garage and Sears is having a sale coming
up. The specs on the air comprtessor are listed below.Would somebody please tell me if it’s adaquate for home usage. This also
means using air tools along with the normal tire attachments.
- 110 or 220 volt capability
- 7.1 SCFM at 90 PSI
- 9.1 SCFM at 40 PSI
- 125 Max PSI
- Oil free direct drive motor
- 5 HP with 30 gal. tank
That is the one I have. It is enough to do anything you want.
I use it mainly with 1/2" impact, 3/8" butterfly wrench, 3/8"
ratchet. Of course it is more than enough for those. If I was
going to do it over again though I might consider sources
other than Sears. A friend of mine bought a Devilbis sp? upright
model with something like 60 gallon tank and belt driven pump
for close to what you’ll pay for that Craftsman. I think he made
a better purchase. It seems a better quality unit, closer to industrial
quality, and doesn’t sound as obnoxious as the direct drives.
Thomas E. Alberts
From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 17:29:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Air Comnpressor / V12 spark plug thread size
While I am here, I plan to buy a air impact wrench. I try not to spend to much,
at MalMart I saw a pretty “cheap” one with max 275 lb/ft torque. Is this
enough. Any advice would be appreciated !
I guess you mean a 1/2" drive then. I bought a cheapo 275 ftlb made
in Taiwan ($35) one and was very dissappointed with it. Seemed like it was
putting out about 75 ft lb and just didn’t feel right. Maybe it was
defective, but I returned it in exchange for a 350 ft lb Campbell-Hausfield
pro series for around $70. I am very happy with this one. It seems
like the ones with the steel front piece, made to look like the Ingersol-
Rand models, are the best. By the way, I find that I use my 3/8 butterfly
wrench a lot more than any other. It is very convenient and a $35
Campbell-Hausfield does the job. The 350 ft lb one I mainly use for
lug nuts, Harmonic balancer bolt, aand major suspension components.
You can fo almost everything else with the butterfly wrench.
Thomas E. Alberts
From: Graham Watson grahamw@microsoft.com
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 15:11:49 -0700
Subject: [XJ40 '92 3.2] What bits should I replace in the front end suspension ?
I’m thinking that the old lady needs some renovation, now that she’s got
her sixth digit on the odometer. If anybodys been through replacing
bushes etc, could you let me know what bits you’d replace as a matter of
course around the suspension area - as an example, I intend to replace
the engine mountings, as I have a feeling there is a bit too much engine
vibration coming though to the cabin (although the engine is fine),
probably the track rod ends… Does a '92 have the issue of the
steering rack bushes ?
Any thoughts appreciated !
From: GrateflJag@aol.com
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 18:39:35 -0400
Subject: Jaguar Factory Tours
I’ve recently returned from holiday in the U.K., and whilst there visited
Coventry and the birthplace of my baby, an 89 XJ-S coupe.
I was very pleased with my visit to the factory. Tony O’Keefe, who is the
curator of the Jaguar Daimler Heritage Trust, took over an hour out of his
day to take me around the factory floor, where I was able to see both the
production lines making saloons (XJ etc) and the new XK-8. I was very
impressed with the condition of the factory – firstly, it’s VERY clean – no
oil stains on the floor whatsoever! – and it’s also obvious that
Jag is taking the Quality thing very seriously.
They’ve put some interesting procedures in place to make sure that only
high-quality vehicles make it to the end of line. Now, you may ask yourself,
am I 1) a representative of Jaguar, or 2) easily brainwashed? No to both …
one procedure is called the “Buyoff Station”. Every 10 stations (there are
about 170 stations on each line, so 17 buyoff stations) the group leader is
responsible for “selling” each car down the line to the next station. If the
car is defective in any way, it stops the line until the problem is fixed.
Even after the car leaves the line, if a problem is found, it goes all the
way back to the responsible station for resolution, and then has to be
checked all over again.
The XK-8 is a nice-looking vehicle up-close. I was able to see a number of
them in different stages of preparation. And it was also fun to stand in the
employee parking lot, surrounded by Jags of all makes and colors. I never
seen that many together at any time (other than at a Concours!).
If you’re ever in Coventry, I recommend going on the plant tour. I found it
very interesting, and different than any of the US car plants that I’ve
visited.
Mark West
89 XJ-S
From: Noah Dater ndater@moose.uvm.edu
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 19:09:45 -0400
Subject: 83 XJ6-exhaust system questions
My exhuast system needs work. While contemplating what to do, I began
to wonder if I really needed the back two mufflers. AT this point they
arn’t really doing anything, and the car is still quite enough. My
thinking is that I will reduce back pressure by just running straight
pipes out the back. Is this a bad idea. I don’t want to mess up the
dynamics of the system. Any comments
Noah Dater
From: hdrsons@iamerica.net (Hal Rogers)
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 19:59:32 -0600
Subject: Re: 83 XJ6-exhaust system questions
At 07:09 PM 6/27/96 -0400, Noah Dater wrote:
My exhuast system needs work. While contemplating what to do, I began
to wonder if I really needed the back two mufflers. AT this point they
arn’t really doing anything, and the car is still quite enough. My
thinking is that I will reduce back pressure by just running straight
pipes out the back. Is this a bad idea. I don’t want to mess up the
dynamics of the system. Any comments
Noah Dater
I recall about a year ago, a customer coming in with an XJ6 Series 1
(actually a Daimler Series 1 I believe) that had just pipes, no mufflers,
at the rear. I recall it being excessively loud. However, maybe the exhaust
pipe conditions were poor. It might be okay as a stop gap to remove blown
mufflers and put in pipes but I probably wouldn’t do it personally.
Regards,
Hal Rogers
Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
Import Auto Specialists
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax
Serving Auto Enthusiasts since 1959
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 28 Jun 96 13:34:53
Subject: Re: Electrical definition – relays
Scott Phillips:
I don’t know what relays are, and their function…I would love to learn their
function, purpose, etc.
In principle, a relay is a spring-return switch operated by an electromagnet
(solenoid). Its most common uses are 1) switching heavy current where the
controlling current is small, 2) switching several poles by energising a single
lead and 3) reversing operation, so that power is switched ON when the
controlling lead is de-energised and vice versa - often a combination of all
three. Your headlight relay will be a combination of 1 and 2.
By combining relays, you can achieve complex logic functions. A simple example
is the light warning bleeper I fitted to my XJC; it bleeps when the parking
light circuit is energised AND the key is out of the steering lock, as sensed
by a very small relay connected to the auxiliary switch on the steering lock
(which operates the seat belt etc. warning on newer models).
I’m sure your local library will have a basic trade school text on relays,
which will teach you not only more details about how they work but also how to
interpret relay symbols in wiring diagrams - essential if you want to
trouble-shoot any electrical problem.
-
- Jan
From: jello@dns.ida.net (Phil Bates)
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 20:46:57 -0600
Subject: Re: Japanese classic cars - MGB copy - NOT!
That is a Datsun 2000 not Toyota.
The Datsun 2000 was an ugly/boxy copy of an "MGB ".
The Toyota 2000 was a GT. This was a sensual copy of the “E” Type Jag.
I agree that the Toyota 2000 GT was one of the best looking vehicles ever to
be produced by Japan.
I still was one of their original car brochures. There were soft and hard
top versions. A soft top was featured in one of the James Bond films.Rick. Thomas.
You are showing some ignorance here, the Datsun 2000 is the enlarged engine
sized Datsun 1500 Fairlady. This car came out before the MGB, in 1961. The
MGB came out in '63. Granted, the 1500 engine and carbs (made by hitachi
under license from SU) were direct rip-offs of the BMC A series engine.
Phil Bates
67 MGB
75 Jaguar XJ12C
52 MG TD replicar (VW)
From: Heidikraut@aol.com
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 23:36:12 -0400
Subject: V12 rotor & cap question
I hope this is not a too stupid question, but would like input to make sure I
know what I think I know, or don’t know?
After installation of a new cap & rotor, should the rotor just barely miss
touching the contacts in the cap, or should the rotor just touch the cap &
wear off some of the contact surface to wear it down?
Please either post replys to me directly at jwh@dw.att.com ( I am useing my
wifes AOL account to send this ) or post to the list.
My gut feeling is that the rotor should not touch the cap and wear off some
of the contact surface which appears to be a thin layer of tin or something
over plastic or vinal and wearing this off reduces the efficiency. Or I may
be wrong. What do you think.
John Himes
88 XJ-S 94K miles
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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 28 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 173
Center Console lock nuts & XJ-S tool kit
Bargain XJS
Factory books wanted
Re: Japanese classic cars - MGB copy - NOT!
Re: Japanese classic cars
RE: Missing Keys
Pre-ignition XJ6 II
Reupholstering XJ6
Pre-ignition XJ6 II
RE: 83 XJ6-exhaust system questions
Oil Pressure
Air Compressors
1987 XJ-S auxiliary air valve purpose and adjustment
Found missing keys
RE: Air Comnpressor question
Re: V12 rotor & cap question
Reupholstering XJ6
RE: Air Compressor question
Major Electrical Cut Out! [XJ6]
From: “Himes,John W.” jwh@dw.att.com
Date: Wed, 26 Jun 96 09:18:00 PDT
Subject: Center Console lock nuts & XJ-S tool kit
If the locknuts are the same as on the XJ-S under the climate control knobs,
there is a special tool for removing these kind of nuts that are round with
2 notches cut in them. I do not have one of those. I use needle nose
pliers or a screwdriver to remove these. For me it works. It can be a
little bit of a pain putting them back on. I normally use 2 small
screwdrivers to start the threading and then either a slightly larger
screwdriver or needle nose pliers again to finish tightening.
According to Kirby Palms book, the XJ-S tool kit (CAC5368) is about $71 US
from Jaguar and was not original equipment. This does include a plug wrench
and other unmentioned items. When cleaning out my trunk yesterday I took
out the jack pack and found what I think is this tool. It looks like
galvanized steel with a very short socket on the end & 2 knuckle type joints
on a long rod. After recently replacing my plugs I think I will still
prefer to remove the A/C compressor. This way you can see if there is dirt
before you remove the plugs, gives you much more room, you can place your
hands in there to replace the plug. you only need to remove 4 bolts that
hold down the compressor, 2 in front, 2 in the rear. You do not even need to
loosen the belt at this time, but you will when replacing the pump. Just do
not remove a single larger bolt that holds a sandwich plate against the 2
A/C freon hoses or you will have to get your A/C system re-charged ( $$$
) You also need to remove the cruise control bellows - 3 bolts. This also
gives you more room. I just supported the A/C compressor out of the way
with a large screwdriver. I guess you can re-place the spark plugs in #1a,
#1b if you have small hands, which I do not. By doing this it only takes a
few more minutes to complete the job IMHO.
While in there, take a look at your cap & rotor, oil the felt pad under
the rotor ( I know where it is, I think ) and move the rotor to see if your
centrifugal advance is working. All sorts of stuff I have learned on this
list I just wish the cap was not so expensive ( about $90 US from the
dealer & rotor was $16 ) for the Lucas.
John Himes
88 XJ-S 94K Miles
From: GFoster737@gnn.com (Gerald Foster)
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 01:26:06
Subject: Bargain XJS
An update on the bargain XJS which I now own. I pulled the junk off the top
of the engine so as to clean the plug holes before removing the plugs. The
plug holes were full of old oil and grit. I fairly knew the car needed an
engine, but was surprised at the compression readings. My gauge reads high
consistently.
1A=0 1B=0
2A=0 2B=200
3A=230 3B=230
4A=215 4B=0
5A=240 5B=230
6A=240 6B=210
Just out of curiousity, anyone venture a guess as to what went wrong? Blown
head gaskets, stuck valves? PO said car suddenly lost power and then began
running rough and making noise, but did not mention overheating (or
concealed it) Car is very nice, not a riple or single ding in the paint. I
am investigating a rebuild or good used engine and weighing the costs. Car
has 133K on the clock with 80% road miles. (400 mile round trip each weekend
for 5 years) Would this car be a candidate for cylinder head overhaul with
that kind of milage? I have done one V12 head job and swore it would be my
last. Comments? Straight 6 Jaguar quoted me $2600 or threabouts for an
overhaul. Am getting a quote from a local tomorrow. My cost for a machine
shop to build the heads, true them etc. is about $200.00 ea. Should this
option be considered? I can remove and replace and set the engine back up,
but the high milage spooks me.
Thanks
Gerald
From: GFoster737@gnn.com (Gerald Foster)
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 01:32:41
Subject: Factory books wanted
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 01:31:21
From: GFoster737@gnn.com (Gerald Foster)
To: Jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: Factory books wantedAnyone have a set of factory manuals for an 86 XJS they want to sell?
Anyone need a factory manual for a 74 XJ12L? Also have a good rear bumper
for the 74 XK12L.
From: sugimoto@sums.shiga-med.ac.jp (Yoshihisa SUGIMOTO)
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 14:42:33 +0900
Subject: Re: Japanese classic cars - MGB copy - NOT!
At 8:46 PM 96.6.27 -0600, Phil Bates wrote:
That is a Datsun 2000 not Toyota.
The Datsun 2000 was an ugly/boxy copy of an "MGB ".
The Toyota 2000 was a GT. This was a sensual copy of the “E” Type Jag.
I agree that the Toyota 2000 GT was one of the best looking vehicles ever to
be produced by Japan.
I still was one of their original car brochures. There were soft and hard
top versions. A soft top was featured in one of the James Bond films.Rick. Thomas.
You are showing some ignorance here, the Datsun 2000 is the enlarged engine
sized Datsun 1500 Fairlady. This car came out before the MGB, in 1961. The
MGB came out in '63. Granted, the 1500 engine and carbs (made by hitachi
under license from SU) were direct rip-offs of the BMC A series engine.
Surely, Datsun Fairlady 2000, i.e. SR311, is an uprated version of SP310
Fairlady with a 1500cc engine. Originally Nissan (Datsun) made SP210
Fairlady in late 50’s before SP310 came out. AFAIK, SP210 had a glass fiber
body. At that time Nissan made Austin A40 in Japan and have gotten a lot of
technology from it. Actually most of Nissan’s OHV engines are derived from
BMC B type engines.
A friend of mine had owned an SR311, which was a fast car with an SOHC
engine. I don’t think it’s an ugly car but unsophisticated.
BTW, I think Honda S800 is a most favorable Japanese classic car to own.
Toyota 2000GT is a good car but too expensive even in Japan.
Yoshihisa Sugimoto, M.D., Ph. D.
Department of Medicine I // Medical Information Center
Shiga University of Medical Science
From: sugimoto@sums.shiga-med.ac.jp (Yoshihisa SUGIMOTO)
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 14:44:47 +0900
Subject: Re: Japanese classic cars
At 10:31 AM 96.6.27 -0400, Mark McChesney wrote:
On Jun 26, 8:00pm, REMANKING@aol.com wrote:
Subject: Re: Japanese classic cars
That is a Datsun 2000 not Toyota.
– End of excerpt from REMANKING@aol.comIs it a Toyota 3000? I’m sure he wasn’t talking about the Datsun 2000.
I agree with you. He was talking about Toyota 2000GT.
Yoshihisa Sugimoto, M.D., Ph. D.
Department of Medicine I // Medical Information Center
Shiga University of Medical Science
From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 09:22 +0200
Subject: RE: Missing Keys
I had a new set of keys made for my Daimler 1966 by:
David Manners
991, Wolverhampton Road, Oldbury
West Midlands B69 4RJ
U.K.
Tel: +44121 544 4040
Fax: +44 121 544 5888
You need to give them the code that is stamped on the lock cylinder either=20
inside the lock mechanism or on the outside of the cylinder of the ignition=20=
switch. They should be the same if none of the cylinders have been changed.
Frans.
My 70 E only has one key. Of course local shops can’t make copies because
they don’t have blanks. This has not been a really big deal but it=20
appears
my 2 year old took the keys out and has hidden them. So I have two=20
questions,How does one get keys made for a 70 E?
If I can’t find them, what do I do?Thanks,
jvr=20
From: “Arnold, Dr Dave” davearno@sandton.senchem.co.za
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 96 09:23:00 PDT
Subject: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
The good news is that the more I drive my 1980 XJ6 ser. II (daily to
work) the better it runs, except for a recent symptom which I know most
of you can help me with. The problem is that when I cut the engine it
continues to run on, with the pistons playing hide-and-seek with the
crankshaft. I did the obvious and put in a new set of plugs, but no
change. The PO said that a major top-end overhaul had recently been done
(I found the old valves in the boot (trunk). What would cause this to
happen, and what do you think I can do about it? Looking forward to some
expert help!
Dave.
“Toys-R-Ours”
From: “Owens, Adam J.” uscuc8hc@ibmmail.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 06:59:28 EDT
Subject: Reupholstering XJ6
Date: 1996-06-28 06:53
Priority:
Fellow Jag-lovers
I am thinking that my Series III XJ could do with having the seats
recovered and the carpets replaced. I have no problem with doing the
carpeting job, however some questions about the seats. Has anyone done this
particular job and what tools are required (esp any that the usual tool box
won’t have)? Am I being an idiot to attempt to do this job myself?- I don’t
mind taking time but I do want it to look and feel correct when it’s done.
Lastly,any recommendations as to vendors (in USA)? BAS? Bassetts? etc. Much
thanks
Best regards,
A.J. Owens
From: “Arnold, Dr Dave” davearno@sandton.senchem.co.za
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 96 13:08:00 PDT
Subject: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
From: Arnold, Dr Dave
Sent: Friday, June 28, 1996 09:39
To: ‘jag-lovers@sn.no’
Subject: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
The good news is that the more I drive my 1980 XJ6 ser. II (daily to
work) the better it runs, except for a recent symptom which I know most
of you can help me with. The problem is that when I cut the engine it
continues to run on, with the pistons playing hide-and-seek with the
crankshaft. I did the obvious and put in a new set of plugs, but no
change. The PO said that a major top-end overhaul had recently been done
(I found the old valves in the boot (trunk). What would cause this to
happen, and what do you think I can do about it? Looking forward to some
expert help!
Dave.
“Toys-R-Ours”
From: “White, Dick” white@msgate.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 08:35:00 -0400
Subject: RE: 83 XJ6-exhaust system questions
Noah,
My 3.8 S-Type does not have the rear mufflers. The PO removed them. I
have left it that way because I have never had to replace the exhaust
system. Sometimes I think it sounds really cool and enjoy listening to
the exhaust note, othertimes I find it an annoyance. Probably depends
on what mood I’m in. If I ever replace the entire system I will put it
back to original.
Dick White
'64 3.8 S-Type
'58 XK 150 FHC
From: Noah Dater
To: Jag-Lovers
Subject: 83 XJ6-exhaust system questions
Date: Thursday, June 27, 1996 7:09PMMy exhuast system needs work. While contemplating what to do, I began
to wonder if I really needed the back two mufflers. AT this point they
arn’t really doing anything, and the car is still quite enough. My
thinking is that I will reduce back pressure by just running straight
pipes out the back. Is this a bad idea. I don’t want to mess up the
dynamics of the system. Any comments
Noah Dater
From: reavesj@nise-ch.nosc.mil (Jim Reaves)
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 08:57:36 -0800
Subject: Oil Pressure
Hello to All,
I am new to the list (Two days) but am enjoying the dialogues. I
have a 1967/70 420G Saloon that has been recently refurbished and a 1979
XJ6L, Series II, 4.2L Fuel Injected. The XJ6 is my daily driver and my
problem is with it.
When first started in the morning the oil pressure shows at 40-50
lbs and is steady, as the engine warms the pressure falls off steadily
until the gauge shows zero. In addition it sometimes becomes erratic and
the gauge will suddenly peg below zero. The erratic swings may be
electrical but the low oil pressure appears to be genuine as evidenced by a
clatter when the engine is accelerated. The oil pump was just replaced but
that did not alter the situation.
Any inputs to this would be greatly appreciated.
Jim Reaves
Jim Reaves
reavesj@nosc.mil
803-974-5712
From: “KENNETH M GILSON” kgilson@ccmail.unl.edu
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 96 10:08:00 CST
Subject: Air Compressors
For what it's worth:
If you are thinking about purchasing a air compressor make sure you
purchase one large enough to do the job. This means spending a little
more money than you want BUT, you will not regret it. Eventually you
will want to use a spray gun or you might want to even sandblast a
little rust off. The following is some general data, a good spray gun
uses about 8 to 13 cfm at 40 to 50 psi depending on the gun you own.
If you decide to sandblast you will need about 14 to 18 cfm at 100 to
120 psi using a small orifice in the nozzle. I would advise to have a
pro do the job. A decent compressor will put out about 4 cfm at 90 psi
per horsepower. A Quincy, Devilbis, Ingersol Rand are all good
compressors and the slower the compressor runs the longer it will
last. Also on the list you should have a filter in the line to remove
contaminants. About the voltage and hz I personally like 220/240 volts
and 60 hz. here in the U.S.A. The tank should be a minimum of 60
gallons and an 80 is better for added storage. My recommendation is a
3hp at 12 cfm on an 60 gal. tank. Minimum. A 5 hp on a 80 gal tank is
ideal for the home shop.
Kenny Gilson
64E Type OTS
From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 11:19:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: 1987 XJ-S auxiliary air valve purpose and adjustment
I am not entirely clear on the function of the auxilliary air
valve on my 1987 XJ-S V-12. It seems to be a way of introducing
a controlled “vacuum leak” for the purpose of regulating
idle speed. Is this correct? Moreover it appears to be temperature
compensated so that it “leaks” less once the engine is warmed
up. A few years back, I had some idle stability problems
(bellcrank potentiometer had a dead spot). The mechanic
I had looking at it noted that the air valve screw was adjusted
all the way in and decided it could be the problem and replaced it.
The new valve still worked best with the screw turned all the way in
so that is the way it stayed. The car ran fine but that adjustment
always seemed to me to be an indicator of trouble somewhere.
I have recently completed some major engine work. Engine runs better
than ever, but still the air screw must be all the way in to establish
proper idle speed. I know everyone will tell me I have a vacuum
leak somewhere. I am pretty confident I don’t as I have replaced many
vacuum lines, checked all connections, and due to the rebuild
I have new intake manifold gaskets. My questions:
1.) Is it a problem that the auxiliary air valve works
best when the screw is turned all the way in?
2.) Is my understanding (guess) of the function of this valve
correct?
3.) Is the fully screwed in position the minimum air-flow setting?
4.) Could I be loosing vacuum through some other servo valve
like the ones for vapor recovery?
Thomas E. Alberts
From: Jim Van Riper jvr@informix.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 10:21:50 -0500
Subject: Found missing keys
I wanted to thank everyone who responded to my dilemma.
We found them last night. After searching all the drawers in the house,
searching all the toyboxes and container-like toys, and cleaning the garage,
my wife sat in the car and tried to think like a two year old. She looked
around and noticed that there is a hole where the emergency brake enters the
console. We got the flashlight and walla! A bit of stiff wire and the a few
moments later the Jag started up.
A momentary victory of adults over the forces of toddlerhood!
For those thinking they might want to get a spare set and avoid this type of
world-wide embarrassment, I was given these leads on new keys.
Welsh in the US
David Manners
991, Wolverhampton Road, Oldbury
West Midlands B69 4RJ
U.K.
Tel: +44121 544 4040
Fax: +44 121 544 5888
I was told you need to give them the code that is stamped on the lock
cylinder either inside the lock mechanism or on the outside of the cylinder
of the ignition switch.
From: David Covert davecove@microsoft.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 08:43:46 -0700
Subject: RE: Air Comnpressor question
I gave some thought to compressors when I had to replace my compressor a
couple of months ago. I came up with 3 real guidelines to home shop
compressors…
- Must have a free running cfm rating high enough to take care of your
most air hungry tool at that tools rated psi. - Must be a piston type (instead of the oil free ‘screw’(?) type). My
father-in-law is a maintainance supervisor and knows his compressors. A
piston-type compressor that needs an oil change every so often seems to
out-last the oil-free kind in heavy usage. - As big of a tank as is practical, the fewer times the compressor has
to start up, the better.
After looking at the Craftsman compressors, I wound up with a Coleman
(yes, Coleman) 220V, 5hp compressor from Sam’s. It meets all of my
criteria, plus I had a personal reference. A very good friend of mine
said that he has been running the exact same model compressor at this
place of work for the last 5 years with it in the ‘Auto’ position the
whole time. They have never changed the oil… I was impressed…
Dave Covert
…Particle Man, Particle Man, doin’ the things a particle can…
They Might Be Giants
From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 11:10:28 GMT
Subject: Re: V12 rotor & cap question
In message 960627233612_565753343@emout12.mail.aol.com Heidikraut@aol.com writes:
After installation of a new cap & rotor, should the rotor just barely miss
touching the contacts in the cap, or should the rotor just touch the cap &
wear off some of the contact surface to wear it down?
After installation the new rotor of mine ‘missed’ the cap by about 0.5mm.
Engine runs just fine, so I assume that this is how the thing is designed.
Regards
Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
'88 XJ-S V12
From: “Owens, Adam J.” uscuc8hc@ibmmail.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 12:20:54 EDT
Subject: Reupholstering XJ6
Date: 1996-06-28 12:16
Priority:
Fellow Jag-lovers
I am thinking that my Series III XJ could do with having the seats
recovered and the carpets replaced. I have no problem with doing the
carpeting job, however some questions about the seats. Has anyone done this
particular job and what tools are required (esp any that the usual tool box
won’t have)? Am I being an idiot to attempt to do this job myself?- I don’t
mind taking time but I do want it to look and feel correct when it’s done.
Lastly,any recommendations as to vendors (in USA)? BAS? Bassetts? etc. Much
thanks
Best regards,
A.J. Owens
From: “Patrick O’Neill” Patrick_O@msn.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 96 16:30:08 UT
Subject: RE: Air Compressor question
I have recently purchased the Sears air compressor you are referring to and it
works very well for me.
If you are going to buy one you can join the “Craftsman Club” just by asking
at the register. It is FREE and you get 10% OFF that days purchases. I joined
when I bought mine and saved an extra $30.
Regards,
Patrick D. O’Neill
1963 MKII 3.8L MOD
Rolling Hills Estates, California
From: Bill Jackson jackson@nprdc.navy.mil
Date: Thu, 27 Jun 1996 08:26:34 -0700
Subject: Air Comnpressor question
A short while ago there was a discussion concerning air compressors and
what size/capacity air compressor is best for home garage use. I want to
get an air compressor for my garage and Sears is having a sale coming
up. The specs on the air comprtessor are listed below.
Would somebody please tell me if it’s adaquate for home usage. This also
means using air tools along with the normal tire attachments.
-
110 or 220 volt capability
-
7.1 SCFM at 90 PSI
-
9.1 SCFM at 40 PSI
-
125 Max PSI
-
Oil free direct drive motor
-
5 HP with 30 gal. tank
Bill -
From: Bob Whiles 71561.2752@compuserve.com
Date: 28 Jun 96 10:30:46 EDT
Subject: Major Electrical Cut Out! [XJ6]
Bob Whiles 71561.2752@CompuServe.COM ]
Greetings Everyone,
I’ve been quite the last few weeks (work and work) and have been trying to catch
up on the mail.
Today, I experienced something new (would have rather won the lottery).
I get in the jag this morning and start it up. A couple of minutes later the
engine dies and I notice that the trip computer is reset to “0”.
This happens twice more during the day … engine cuts out and ALL Electrical
goes. I mean everything and the trip computers memory is wiped.
It’s like someone disconnects one of the battery cables while the engine is
running - kills the engine and wipes out all 12volts. What could be the
problem. Does anyone have an Idea? I had other plans for saturday, but
priorities are priorities, I’ll work on the Jag.
Some other side effects ( seems to happen when warming up, seat belt buzzer
stays on and makes a wierd dying noise, no power(sluggish) all of a sudden).
Engine Idle rough.
It’s times like these that I’m glad to be part of such a great group of car
lovers, Thanks in Advance
Bob Whiles, Redlands CA USA 71561.2752@compuserve.com
86 Jaguar XJ6 S3
Dreaming for E Type
→ “So what is there about a picture of a pretty girl wearing
→ a Bikini, High Heals and standing next to a Beautiful
→ Car that doesn’t make sense?”
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #173
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jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 29 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 174
Re: 89 XJ-S flat-spot
RE: Bargain XJS
Re: Major Electrical Cut Out! [XJ6]
jag-lovers-digest V2 #172
Re: Japanese classic cars - MGB copy - NOT!
Broken E-Type Frame
Pre-ignition XJ6 II
Re: Major Electrical Cut Out! [XJ6]
RE: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
Re: prelubrication recommendation
Reference material
XJ6 BUMPERS
Washers
Re: Reference material
NOS question…
XJ40 “normal” ranges
XJ40 “normal” ranges
Re: NOS question…
Reupholstering XJ6
Re: NOS question…
Reupholstering XJ6
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 12:08:43 -0500
Subject: Re: 89 XJ-S flat-spot
I responded off the list ut maybe I should put this on the list also.
It sounds to me like the engine is running too rich and the excess fuel is
clogging the Catilytic converter.
This has happened to me twice on other cars which had carbs. that needed
cleaning and the choke got stuck. After slowing down for a while or
sometimes stoping the converter can clear itself and then you can go on.
At night if you look under the car the Cat will be glowing red hot.
In this case it might be the cold start injector is stuck on.
Jim
===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"
John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: “Lauren E. Pratt” pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 96 10:38:52 PDT
Subject: RE: Bargain XJS
Gerald asked for thoughts on his XJS engine.
I will suggest you should pull the engine and dismantle it
to know exactly what it’s true condition is, no guesses.
Only by knowing exactly the present condition can you
chart a course to where you want to be.
The cylinders with compression are relative even, but
high. But as you say your gauge reads high. The cylinders
with zero compression could be from burnt valves or blown
head gasket. These could be the result of serious over
heating, but are all just guesses. Open the engine up to
be sure. It could very well be that rebuilding the heads
and a ring job and this engine will give all the miles
you will need. Buying a used engine is a big crap shoot,
more guesses and luck.
That is my $0.02 worth, for what it is worth.
Cheers Lauren 65 E-Type FHC
Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 6/28/96
Time: 10:38:52 AM
From: zavadsky@austin.ibm.com (Vlad Zavadsky)
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 12:22:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Major Electrical Cut Out! [XJ6]
Bob,
Some time ago I had a similar problem. In my case the battery cable was
bad. It looked OK, but a lot of wires in the cable were broken. Some times
enough wires were connected to get the car going, other times the engine
would not even turn over. Also, (I don’t know about Jags) but GM cars
have a fusible link. If it goes bad, the car stops.
Vlad
From: Rolando.Arroyo@NCAL.KAIPERM.ORG
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 10:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #172
dear jag-lovers,
i am looking for a mark ii and would like to install an air conditioning
system. does anyone have any experience with this?
thanks,
rolly
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 13:41:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Japanese classic cars - MGB copy - NOT!
On Jun 28, 2:42pm, Yoshihisa SUGIMOTO wrote:
Subject: Re: Japanese classic cars - MGB copy - NOT!
BTW, I think Honda S800 is a most favorable Japanese classic car to own.
Toyota 2000GT is a good car but too expensive even in Japan.Yoshihisa Sugimoto, M.D., Ph. D.
Department of Medicine I // Medical Information Center
Shiga University of Medical Science
– End of excerpt from Yoshihisa SUGIMOTO
I have a friend here in Michigan that has a near perfect Honda S800 - neat
car!
Isn’t it chain drive?
Mark
From: Mark Budd MBudd@inforoute.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 19:42:06 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Broken E-Type Frame
Hi Everyone,
Hoping to have help on this one : I am ready to install all my
restored suspension parts on my front frames of my “E” and assemble it to
the picture frame and bonnet support rack. Problem is the passenger side
lower frame rail is broken. Seems like a clean cut with a hacksaw! I was
told by a restoration company that it was probably due to a hard hit that
twisted the frame thus breaking it clean.
The frames on my “E” are in fantastic condition due to old
Zeibarting and thick oil covering them! I stripped the drivers frame with
acid and found nothing wrong - not even surface rust, all brass welds were
strong. The bonnet support had a dent in the rad support area, but easy to
fix at the body shop. The frame that is cracked has NO rust spots at all, so
I hate to have to pay $800-$1200 Cdn. to purchase a new frame. I had it
repaired but the restoration company I deal with said it wasn’t acceptable.
I tried to find the same Reynalds? (sic) tubing but could not. I contacted a
Metallurgist I deal with, and HE could not find this tubing. If they
reproduce these frames, why can’t I purchase a length of it, and have my
welder cut out the old section, and brass weld (as original) the new
section? Would this be acceptable?
What I’m asking is, “Has anyone gone through this, and found a
solution without the large cost of replacing an otherwise good unit?” Would
the quality and strength be compromised? I tried to find a quality used unit
but they were all in terrible shape, and each one of the three I found was
cracked! (They still asked for $350 Cdn. each!)
Thx in advance for any advice…
Mark Budd
'70 E-Type Roadster
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 12:52:20 -0500
Subject: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
Sounds like an ignition timing problem to me.
Jim
===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"
John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 12:07:34 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Re: Major Electrical Cut Out! [XJ6]
Bob’s having electrical problems with his XJ6…
{It’s like someone disconnects one of the battery cables while the engine is
{running - kills the engine and wipes out all 12volts…
{Some other side effects ( seems to happen when warming up, seat belt buzzer
{stays on and makes a wierd dying noise, no power(sluggish) all of a sudden).
{Engine Idle rough.
I don’t know how you expect us to diagnose this problem without knowing
the color of your car :-).
Anyway, do your headlights stay on?
Yes: Check your ignition switch/wiring (1) or engine sensors (2).
No: Dead short/bad connection from battery (3).
I’ve experienced three similar electrical problems recently:
-
A burnt connection on the back of the ignition switch (XJ6).
Symptoms: Car is Dead with a capital D. Turn the key and
absolutely nothing happens. Headlights and cabin
lights work, but dash voltmeter is inert.This bad contact occurred where the main positive 12volt feed (brown)
enters the ignition switch. I incorrectly assumed that it was a bad
park position switch on the gear shifter, ripped the console apart,
shorted around the park switch and it was still dead. I touched a
bunch of stuff underneath the dash tracing wires and it suddenly
started. I had no idea why. I couldn’t get it to fail again until
the next morning when it stranded Anne in the driveway. Remembering
what I had done, she started wiggling underdash wires until it
started. It pointed her to the ignition switch. Then I got under
there and started wiggling wires until I could hear a relay clicking.
That traced it to the brown wire. It was warm and, if I looked
closely, I could see some burnt insulation and little sparks at the
connection. I replaced the switch (very easy) and everything was OK
until… -
Bad connection on the throttle microswitch (XJ6).
Symptoms: Car starts fine, then it coughs, idles roughly and quits
after a few seconds. All electrics stay on except the fuel
pump.Test: Unhook the two yellow wire connectors and put a jumperwire
across them. The car starts and idles fine, but when you
slowly press on the gas, the RPMs rapidly cycle up and down
near the idle RPM.I’ve had trouble here before and it struck again just this morning.
There’s a little black microswitch with two yellow wires on the
intake manifold, near the throttle equipment. It senses when the
throttle is open. I think it’s connected to the fuel pump somehow
and cuts off the fuel pump under certain conditions. Awhile ago, I
noticed my microswitch was broken and replaced it with a generic one
with slightly smaller terminals. At first, I didn’t get a good
connection and the fuel pump would cut out after a few seconds. Once
I got a good connection, it ran OK. -
A dead short (MGB).
A friend recently told me that her MGB would occasionally just lose
all electrics while driving down the road: headlights go off, engine
misses, gauges drop. I told her about the ignition switch, but that
didn’t explain her head lights, so I said it was probably a dead
short somewhere. A few days later she call to say that it was a dead
short, she wiggled the + cable and was greeted by a shower of sparks
where some insulation had rubbed off against the frame of the car.
/\ Lawrence Buja http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern/
_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
________________Boulder,Colorado___80307-3000
From: “Lauren E. Pratt” pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 96 13:43:11 PDT
Subject: RE: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
Dave
Your engine run-on problem is probably not due to a timing problem
as the engine continues to sput and pop after the ignition
is turned off.
As the engine winds down, it continues to draw in a fuel and
air mixture and a red hot piece of carbon in the cylinder
sets it off. This causes the engine to spit and sputter on one
or more cylinders.
That is the cause. The fix…Try adjusting carb or fuel injection
for proper fuel-air ratio and idle speed. Also get some good gas,
the cheep stuff is worse with this problem. Ignition timing
could be part of the problem if it causes a hotter piece of carbon.
I am sure others can expand further on this.
Cheers Lauren 65 E-Type
Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 6/28/96
Time: 1:43:11 PM
From: lupienj@wal.hp.com (John Lupien)
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 96 16:55:35 EDT
Subject: Re: prelubrication recommendation
Analogy : are you aware of the “old fashioned” and sensible foot plunger
actived wind screen washers that negates use of electric motor?? (a squirt
gun) I wonder if this system could be used with modifications as a preluber.
The best windsheild washer I ever used was in a Renault. Some of the
worst automotive features I have come across were also on Renaults,
but this made up for a lot. Basically a rubber thing on the dash that
you push on, and this forces washer stuff to squirt onto the windshield.
The reason I liked it better than the foot-pump variety was that it
was easier to modulate and that the passenger could operate it as well.
And the pump motor never seized…
John R. Lupien
lupienj@wal.hp.com
From: gprice@Rt66.com (Gregory W. Price)
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 15:18:24 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Reference material
Would anyone mind telling me, as a first-time Jag owner, what the ultimate
workshop manual is for the XJ6 Series III? Is it the factory manual or is
there one better?
Gregory W. Price & Company, Ltd
Research, evaluation and information management services
Personal computer specialists: Free answers to your emailed PC questions
gprice@rt66.com
From: carfindr@tiac.net (CARFINDERS USA)
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 18:13:12 -0400
Subject: XJ6 BUMPERS
I am quietly going nuts here - hopefully someone cap put me out of my misery!
I own a 1976 XJ6 Coupe with bloody great horrible rubber bumpers that are
rusting and crying out to be thrown away. I would like to replace them with
the European Chrome bumpers as fitted to the series II saloons and coupes. I
had thought that if I were to want these bumpers I would have to go to
England to get them - but every so often I see a series II Jag with them on
here in the U.S.! My question is this, were early series II saloons
(say pre-'74) imported to the U.S. with chrome bumpers or have each of these
cars I’ve seen brought them in from the UK?
Any Ideas?
Jeff e-mail: carfindr@tiac.net
From: Ryan Border rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 15:42:35 -0700
Subject: Washers
Hi all,
While we’re on the subject of windshield washers, lets get back on
track and see if anybody can explain the function of my non-functional
windshield washer on my Jag (a '59 MK1).
The control (at least I think this was the washer control) is nothing
more than a valve: you push the button on the dash and the valve opens.
My belief is that this somehow worked off of engine vacuum; though I
haven’t figured out how it was hooked up… all that was left behind
the dash were stubs of crusty rubber hoses.
How did it work?
How would I go about hooking it back up?
Thanks-
Ryan.
PS: For you old timers, I figure it’s asking this once a year or so :-).
From: Curt Onstott onstottc@ucs.orst.edu
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 15:53:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Reference material
The factory manual is handy-- but I’ve found the factory parts catalogue
quite helpful. Tons of illustrations of most of the major assemblies!
On Fri, 28 Jun 1996, Gregory W. Price wrote:
Would anyone mind telling me, as a first-time Jag owner, what the ultimate
workshop manual is for the XJ6 Series III? Is it the factory manual or is
there one better?
Gregory W. Price & Company, Ltd Research, evaluation and information management servicesPersonal computer specialists: Free answers to your emailed PC questions
gprice@rt66.com
- -To err is human. To err faster and more efficiently requires a computer.-
Curt Onstott - Windows/DOS/PC Specialist - Information Services - Oregon
State University. - (541) 737-1483 - Office: Kerr 217
From: Dan Graves dan@bimmer.rose.hp.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 96 16:16:12 PDT
Subject: NOS question…
Just recently the fuel pump on my '69 E-type has been acting up and finally
stopped working. Well, kinda. It works great except the little plastic-like
membrane on the front of the diaphram deteriorated and now the fuel leaks
through the diaphram material. I called around expecting the worst (it is
a Jag) and was very surprised to hear the prices of parts. For $50 I can
get a rebuild kit for the original pump (not bad, not great). For $60 I
can get an aftermarket electronic pump that bolts in place of the original
(I’d seriously consider this - while keeping the original for future repair).
But, for $70 I can get a NOS (New - Old Stock) original pump. I’m opting
for the NOS pump. Does anyone have an opinion about NOS parts and whether
or not I’ll have a higher chance of problems since its an “old” part?
The car is all original but is driven at least three days a week during the
spring/summer/fall in CA. I need it to be dependable (at least the pump!).
Dan Graves
'69 E-type OTS
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 20:17:29 -0500
Subject: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.
My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.
Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.
Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 20:17:29 -0500
Subject: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.
My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.
Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.
Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:40:10 -0400
Subject: Re: NOS question…
The “improved” gas being sold everywhere but especially in California might
eat the diaphragm of your NOS pump. Some of the materials used in the older
pumps don’t like alcohol at all. This might be what happened to your
existing pump. Maybe you can experiment by cutting a little piece of the
diaphragm from your old pump and immersing in alcohol. On second thought it
might be more fun to immerse yourself in alcohol.
Dave 1952 XK120 rdstr 1960 Morgan +4 1953 MGTD
From: Bob Whiles 71561.2752@compuserve.com
Date: 28 Jun 96 21:39:37 EDT
Subject: Reupholstering XJ6
Greetings Adam,
You wrote,
Fellow Jag-lovers
I am thinking that my Series III XJ could
do with having the seats recovered and the carpets
replaced. I have no problem with doing the
carpeting job, however some questions about the seats. Has
anyone done this particular job and what tools are
required (esp any that the usual tool box won’t have)? Am
I being an idiot to attempt to do this job myself?- I don’t
mind taking time but I do want it to look and feel correct
when it’s done. Lastly,any recommendations as to vendors
(in USA)? BAS? Bassetts? etc. Much thanks
Best
regards,
A.J. Owens
I was told by a shop owner one time “the job is always easier when you don’t
know what you are doing.” My wife and I own a trim shop. The basic tools for
auto upholstery are
- Set of Hog Ring Pliers $8-$15US
- Hog Rings
This is assuming that you are buying the covers pre-made. I have not done our
Jag yet, but sometimes a seat cover needs a little hand stiching.
I hope this helps,
Bob Whiles, Redlands CA USA 71561.2752@compuserve.com
86 Jaguar XJ6 S3
Dreaming for an E Type (I want one of each)
- → "So what is there about a picture of a pretty girl wearing
- → a Bikini, High Heals and standing next to a beautiful
- → car that doesn’t make sense?"
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:40:10 -0400
Subject: Re: NOS question…
The “improved” gas being sold everywhere but especially in California might
eat the diaphragm of your NOS pump. Some of the materials used in the older
pumps don’t like alcohol at all. This might be what happened to your
existing pump. Maybe you can experiment by cutting a little piece of the
diaphragm from your old pump and immersing in alcohol. On second thought it
might be more fun to immerse yourself in alcohol.
Dave 1952 XK120 rdstr 1960 Morgan +4 1953 MGTD
From: Bob Whiles 71561.2752@compuserve.com
Date: 28 Jun 96 21:39:37 EDT
Subject: Reupholstering XJ6
Greetings Adam,
You wrote,
Fellow Jag-lovers
I am thinking that my Series III XJ could
do with having the seats recovered and the carpets
replaced. I have no problem with doing the
carpeting job, however some questions about the seats. Has
anyone done this particular job and what tools are
required (esp any that the usual tool box won’t have)? Am
I being an idiot to attempt to do this job myself?- I don’t
mind taking time but I do want it to look and feel correct
when it’s done. Lastly,any recommendations as to vendors
(in USA)? BAS? Bassetts? etc. Much thanks
Best
regards,
A.J. Owens
I was told by a shop owner one time “the job is always easier when you don’t
know what you are doing.” My wife and I own a trim shop. The basic tools for
auto upholstery are
- Set of Hog Ring Pliers $8-$15US
- Hog Rings
This is assuming that you are buying the covers pre-made. I have not done our
Jag yet, but sometimes a seat cover needs a little hand stiching.
I hope this helps,
Bob Whiles, Redlands CA USA 71561.2752@compuserve.com
86 Jaguar XJ6 S3
Dreaming for an E Type (I want one of each)
- → "So what is there about a picture of a pretty girl wearing
- → a Bikini, High Heals and standing next to a beautiful
- → car that doesn’t make sense?"
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #174
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jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 29 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 175
XJ40 “normal” ranges
XKE Headliner
XKE Headliner
Re: NOS question…
Reupholstering XJ6
XJ40 “normal” ranges
XKE Headliner
Re: NOS question…
Reupholstering XJ6
Bob Whiles Electric Failure
XJ40 “normal” ranges
Bob Whiles Electric Failure
XKE Headliner
Re: NOS question…
Reupholstering XJ6
XJ40 “normal” ranges
Panther sportscar.
Panther sportscar.
Bob Whiles Electric Failure
XKE Headliner
Re: NOS question…
Reupholstering XJ6
XJ40 “normal” ranges
Panther sportscar.
Bob Whiles Electric Failure
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 20:17:29 -0500
Subject: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.
My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.
Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.
Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 22:31:13 -0400
Subject: XKE Headliner
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know how to
remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 332-9302) has
started manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I will keep
the list posted.
Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 22:31:13 -0400
Subject: XKE Headliner
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know how to
remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 332-9302) has
started manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I will keep
the list posted.
Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:40:10 -0400
Subject: Re: NOS question…
The “improved” gas being sold everywhere but especially in California might
eat the diaphragm of your NOS pump. Some of the materials used in the older
pumps don’t like alcohol at all. This might be what happened to your
existing pump. Maybe you can experiment by cutting a little piece of the
diaphragm from your old pump and immersing in alcohol. On second thought it
might be more fun to immerse yourself in alcohol.
Dave 1952 XK120 rdstr 1960 Morgan +4 1953 MGTD
From: Bob Whiles 71561.2752@compuserve.com
Date: 28 Jun 96 21:39:37 EDT
Subject: Reupholstering XJ6
Greetings Adam,
You wrote,
Fellow Jag-lovers
I am thinking that my Series III XJ could
do with having the seats recovered and the carpets
replaced. I have no problem with doing the
carpeting job, however some questions about the seats. Has
anyone done this particular job and what tools are
required (esp any that the usual tool box won’t have)? Am
I being an idiot to attempt to do this job myself?- I don’t
mind taking time but I do want it to look and feel correct
when it’s done. Lastly,any recommendations as to vendors
(in USA)? BAS? Bassetts? etc. Much thanks
Best
regards,
A.J. Owens
I was told by a shop owner one time “the job is always easier when you don’t
know what you are doing.” My wife and I own a trim shop. The basic tools for
auto upholstery are
- Set of Hog Ring Pliers $8-$15US
- Hog Rings
This is assuming that you are buying the covers pre-made. I have not done our
Jag yet, but sometimes a seat cover needs a little hand stiching.
I hope this helps,
Bob Whiles, Redlands CA USA 71561.2752@compuserve.com
86 Jaguar XJ6 S3
Dreaming for an E Type (I want one of each)
- → "So what is there about a picture of a pretty girl wearing
- → a Bikini, High Heals and standing next to a beautiful
- → car that doesn’t make sense?"
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 20:17:29 -0500
Subject: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.
My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.
Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.
Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 22:31:13 -0400
Subject: XKE Headliner
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know how to
remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 332-9302) has
started manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I will keep
the list posted.
Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:40:10 -0400
Subject: Re: NOS question…
The “improved” gas being sold everywhere but especially in California might
eat the diaphragm of your NOS pump. Some of the materials used in the older
pumps don’t like alcohol at all. This might be what happened to your
existing pump. Maybe you can experiment by cutting a little piece of the
diaphragm from your old pump and immersing in alcohol. On second thought it
might be more fun to immerse yourself in alcohol.
Dave 1952 XK120 rdstr 1960 Morgan +4 1953 MGTD
From: Bob Whiles 71561.2752@compuserve.com
Date: 28 Jun 96 21:39:37 EDT
Subject: Reupholstering XJ6
Greetings Adam,
You wrote,
Fellow Jag-lovers
I am thinking that my Series III XJ could
do with having the seats recovered and the carpets
replaced. I have no problem with doing the
carpeting job, however some questions about the seats. Has
anyone done this particular job and what tools are
required (esp any that the usual tool box won’t have)? Am
I being an idiot to attempt to do this job myself?- I don’t
mind taking time but I do want it to look and feel correct
when it’s done. Lastly,any recommendations as to vendors
(in USA)? BAS? Bassetts? etc. Much thanks
Best
regards,
A.J. Owens
I was told by a shop owner one time “the job is always easier when you don’t
know what you are doing.” My wife and I own a trim shop. The basic tools for
auto upholstery are
- Set of Hog Ring Pliers $8-$15US
- Hog Rings
This is assuming that you are buying the covers pre-made. I have not done our
Jag yet, but sometimes a seat cover needs a little hand stiching.
I hope this helps,
Bob Whiles, Redlands CA USA 71561.2752@compuserve.com
86 Jaguar XJ6 S3
Dreaming for an E Type (I want one of each)
- → "So what is there about a picture of a pretty girl wearing
- → a Bikini, High Heals and standing next to a beautiful
- → car that doesn’t make sense?"
From: GFoster737@gnn.com (Gerald Foster)
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 23:03:19
Subject: Bob Whiles Electric Failure
Bob.
Clean your battery terminals, re-tighten them, charge the battery. This
usually does the trick, I’ve experienced it on several of my cars over the
years. Battery terminal corrosion will reduce the available amperage by 50%
with a corresponding drop in voltage, and it doesn’t take much corrosion
either.
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 20:17:29 -0500
Subject: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.
My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.
Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.
Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
From: GFoster737@gnn.com (Gerald Foster)
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 23:03:19
Subject: Bob Whiles Electric Failure
Bob.
Clean your battery terminals, re-tighten them, charge the battery. This
usually does the trick, I’ve experienced it on several of my cars over the
years. Battery terminal corrosion will reduce the available amperage by 50%
with a corresponding drop in voltage, and it doesn’t take much corrosion
either.
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 22:31:13 -0400
Subject: XKE Headliner
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know how to
remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 332-9302) has
started manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I will keep
the list posted.
Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:40:10 -0400
Subject: Re: NOS question…
The “improved” gas being sold everywhere but especially in California might
eat the diaphragm of your NOS pump. Some of the materials used in the older
pumps don’t like alcohol at all. This might be what happened to your
existing pump. Maybe you can experiment by cutting a little piece of the
diaphragm from your old pump and immersing in alcohol. On second thought it
might be more fun to immerse yourself in alcohol.
Dave 1952 XK120 rdstr 1960 Morgan +4 1953 MGTD
From: Bob Whiles 71561.2752@compuserve.com
Date: 28 Jun 96 21:39:37 EDT
Subject: Reupholstering XJ6
Greetings Adam,
You wrote,
Fellow Jag-lovers
I am thinking that my Series III XJ could
do with having the seats recovered and the carpets
replaced. I have no problem with doing the
carpeting job, however some questions about the seats. Has
anyone done this particular job and what tools are
required (esp any that the usual tool box won’t have)? Am
I being an idiot to attempt to do this job myself?- I don’t
mind taking time but I do want it to look and feel correct
when it’s done. Lastly,any recommendations as to vendors
(in USA)? BAS? Bassetts? etc. Much thanks
Best
regards,
A.J. Owens
I was told by a shop owner one time “the job is always easier when you don’t
know what you are doing.” My wife and I own a trim shop. The basic tools for
auto upholstery are
- Set of Hog Ring Pliers $8-$15US
- Hog Rings
This is assuming that you are buying the covers pre-made. I have not done our
Jag yet, but sometimes a seat cover needs a little hand stiching.
I hope this helps,
Bob Whiles, Redlands CA USA 71561.2752@compuserve.com
86 Jaguar XJ6 S3
Dreaming for an E Type (I want one of each)
- → "So what is there about a picture of a pretty girl wearing
- → a Bikini, High Heals and standing next to a beautiful
- → car that doesn’t make sense?"
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 20:17:29 -0500
Subject: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.
My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.
Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.
Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 00:00:08 -0400
Subject: Panther sportscar.
Does anyone know anything about the Panther sportscar? I saw one advertised
locally. It looks a bit like the SS-100, but carries modern Jag running
gear. Body is aluminum, so I would imagine that is quite fast, despite the
retro design and primitive aerodynamics. According to the ad, it was
factory-built in UK in 1981. What are they worth? Any experiences?
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 00:00:08 -0400
Subject: Panther sportscar.
Does anyone know anything about the Panther sportscar? I saw one advertised
locally. It looks a bit like the SS-100, but carries modern Jag running
gear. Body is aluminum, so I would imagine that is quite fast, despite the
retro design and primitive aerodynamics. According to the ad, it was
factory-built in UK in 1981. What are they worth? Any experiences?
From: GFoster737@gnn.com (Gerald Foster)
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 23:03:19
Subject: Bob Whiles Electric Failure
Bob.
Clean your battery terminals, re-tighten them, charge the battery. This
usually does the trick, I’ve experienced it on several of my cars over the
years. Battery terminal corrosion will reduce the available amperage by 50%
with a corresponding drop in voltage, and it doesn’t take much corrosion
either.
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 22:31:13 -0400
Subject: XKE Headliner
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know how to
remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 332-9302) has
started manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I will keep
the list posted.
Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:40:10 -0400
Subject: Re: NOS question…
The “improved” gas being sold everywhere but especially in California might
eat the diaphragm of your NOS pump. Some of the materials used in the older
pumps don’t like alcohol at all. This might be what happened to your
existing pump. Maybe you can experiment by cutting a little piece of the
diaphragm from your old pump and immersing in alcohol. On second thought it
might be more fun to immerse yourself in alcohol.
Dave 1952 XK120 rdstr 1960 Morgan +4 1953 MGTD
From: Bob Whiles 71561.2752@compuserve.com
Date: 28 Jun 96 21:39:37 EDT
Subject: Reupholstering XJ6
Greetings Adam,
You wrote,
Fellow Jag-lovers
I am thinking that my Series III XJ could
do with having the seats recovered and the carpets
replaced. I have no problem with doing the
carpeting job, however some questions about the seats. Has
anyone done this particular job and what tools are
required (esp any that the usual tool box won’t have)? Am
I being an idiot to attempt to do this job myself?- I don’t
mind taking time but I do want it to look and feel correct
when it’s done. Lastly,any recommendations as to vendors
(in USA)? BAS? Bassetts? etc. Much thanks
Best
regards,
A.J. Owens
I was told by a shop owner one time “the job is always easier when you don’t
know what you are doing.” My wife and I own a trim shop. The basic tools for
auto upholstery are
- Set of Hog Ring Pliers $8-$15US
- Hog Rings
This is assuming that you are buying the covers pre-made. I have not done our
Jag yet, but sometimes a seat cover needs a little hand stiching.
I hope this helps,
Bob Whiles, Redlands CA USA 71561.2752@compuserve.com
86 Jaguar XJ6 S3
Dreaming for an E Type (I want one of each)
- → "So what is there about a picture of a pretty girl wearing
- → a Bikini, High Heals and standing next to a beautiful
- → car that doesn’t make sense?"
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 20:17:29 -0500
Subject: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.
My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.
Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.
Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 00:00:08 -0400
Subject: Panther sportscar.
Does anyone know anything about the Panther sportscar? I saw one advertised
locally. It looks a bit like the SS-100, but carries modern Jag running
gear. Body is aluminum, so I would imagine that is quite fast, despite the
retro design and primitive aerodynamics. According to the ad, it was
factory-built in UK in 1981. What are they worth? Any experiences?
From: GFoster737@gnn.com (Gerald Foster)
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 23:03:19
Subject: Bob Whiles Electric Failure
Bob.
Clean your battery terminals, re-tighten them, charge the battery. This
usually does the trick, I’ve experienced it on several of my cars over the
years. Battery terminal corrosion will reduce the available amperage by 50%
with a corresponding drop in voltage, and it doesn’t take much corrosion
either.
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #175
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Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 08:09:38 +0200 (MET DST)
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jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 29 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 176
XKE Headliner
Re: NOS question…
Reupholstering XJ6
XJ40 “normal” ranges
Panther sportscar.
Bob Whiles Electric Failure
XKE Headliner
Re: NOS question…
Reupholstering XJ6
XJ40 “normal” ranges
Panther sportscar.
Bob Whiles Electric Failure
XKE Headliner
Re: NOS question…
Reupholstering XJ6
XJ40 “normal” ranges
Panther sportscar.
Bob Whiles Electric Failure
Multiple Message Copies
Re: XJ40 “normal” ranges
XKE Headliner
Re: NOS question…
Reupholstering XJ6
XJ40 “normal” ranges
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 22:31:13 -0400
Subject: XKE Headliner
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know how to
remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 332-9302) has
started manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I will keep
the list posted.
Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:40:10 -0400
Subject: Re: NOS question…
The “improved” gas being sold everywhere but especially in California might
eat the diaphragm of your NOS pump. Some of the materials used in the older
pumps don’t like alcohol at all. This might be what happened to your
existing pump. Maybe you can experiment by cutting a little piece of the
diaphragm from your old pump and immersing in alcohol. On second thought it
might be more fun to immerse yourself in alcohol.
Dave 1952 XK120 rdstr 1960 Morgan +4 1953 MGTD
From: Bob Whiles 71561.2752@compuserve.com
Date: 28 Jun 96 21:39:37 EDT
Subject: Reupholstering XJ6
Greetings Adam,
You wrote,
Fellow Jag-lovers
I am thinking that my Series III XJ could
do with having the seats recovered and the carpets
replaced. I have no problem with doing the
carpeting job, however some questions about the seats. Has
anyone done this particular job and what tools are
required (esp any that the usual tool box won’t have)? Am
I being an idiot to attempt to do this job myself?- I don’t
mind taking time but I do want it to look and feel correct
when it’s done. Lastly,any recommendations as to vendors
(in USA)? BAS? Bassetts? etc. Much thanks
Best
regards,
A.J. Owens
I was told by a shop owner one time “the job is always easier when you don’t
know what you are doing.” My wife and I own a trim shop. The basic tools for
auto upholstery are
- Set of Hog Ring Pliers $8-$15US
- Hog Rings
This is assuming that you are buying the covers pre-made. I have not done our
Jag yet, but sometimes a seat cover needs a little hand stiching.
I hope this helps,
Bob Whiles, Redlands CA USA 71561.2752@compuserve.com
86 Jaguar XJ6 S3
Dreaming for an E Type (I want one of each)
- → "So what is there about a picture of a pretty girl wearing
- → a Bikini, High Heals and standing next to a beautiful
- → car that doesn’t make sense?"
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 20:17:29 -0500
Subject: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.
My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.
Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.
Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 00:00:08 -0400
Subject: Panther sportscar.
Does anyone know anything about the Panther sportscar? I saw one advertised
locally. It looks a bit like the SS-100, but carries modern Jag running
gear. Body is aluminum, so I would imagine that is quite fast, despite the
retro design and primitive aerodynamics. According to the ad, it was
factory-built in UK in 1981. What are they worth? Any experiences?
From: GFoster737@gnn.com (Gerald Foster)
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 23:03:19
Subject: Bob Whiles Electric Failure
Bob.
Clean your battery terminals, re-tighten them, charge the battery. This
usually does the trick, I’ve experienced it on several of my cars over the
years. Battery terminal corrosion will reduce the available amperage by 50%
with a corresponding drop in voltage, and it doesn’t take much corrosion
either.
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 22:31:13 -0400
Subject: XKE Headliner
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know how to
remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 332-9302) has
started manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I will keep
the list posted.
Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:40:10 -0400
Subject: Re: NOS question…
The “improved” gas being sold everywhere but especially in California might
eat the diaphragm of your NOS pump. Some of the materials used in the older
pumps don’t like alcohol at all. This might be what happened to your
existing pump. Maybe you can experiment by cutting a little piece of the
diaphragm from your old pump and immersing in alcohol. On second thought it
might be more fun to immerse yourself in alcohol.
Dave 1952 XK120 rdstr 1960 Morgan +4 1953 MGTD
From: Bob Whiles 71561.2752@compuserve.com
Date: 28 Jun 96 21:39:37 EDT
Subject: Reupholstering XJ6
Greetings Adam,
You wrote,
Fellow Jag-lovers
I am thinking that my Series III XJ could
do with having the seats recovered and the carpets
replaced. I have no problem with doing the
carpeting job, however some questions about the seats. Has
anyone done this particular job and what tools are
required (esp any that the usual tool box won’t have)? Am
I being an idiot to attempt to do this job myself?- I don’t
mind taking time but I do want it to look and feel correct
when it’s done. Lastly,any recommendations as to vendors
(in USA)? BAS? Bassetts? etc. Much thanks
Best
regards,
A.J. Owens
I was told by a shop owner one time “the job is always easier when you don’t
know what you are doing.” My wife and I own a trim shop. The basic tools for
auto upholstery are
- Set of Hog Ring Pliers $8-$15US
- Hog Rings
This is assuming that you are buying the covers pre-made. I have not done our
Jag yet, but sometimes a seat cover needs a little hand stiching.
I hope this helps,
Bob Whiles, Redlands CA USA 71561.2752@compuserve.com
86 Jaguar XJ6 S3
Dreaming for an E Type (I want one of each)
- → "So what is there about a picture of a pretty girl wearing
- → a Bikini, High Heals and standing next to a beautiful
- → car that doesn’t make sense?"
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 20:17:29 -0500
Subject: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.
My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.
Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.
Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 00:00:08 -0400
Subject: Panther sportscar.
Does anyone know anything about the Panther sportscar? I saw one advertised
locally. It looks a bit like the SS-100, but carries modern Jag running
gear. Body is aluminum, so I would imagine that is quite fast, despite the
retro design and primitive aerodynamics. According to the ad, it was
factory-built in UK in 1981. What are they worth? Any experiences?
From: GFoster737@gnn.com (Gerald Foster)
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 23:03:19
Subject: Bob Whiles Electric Failure
Bob.
Clean your battery terminals, re-tighten them, charge the battery. This
usually does the trick, I’ve experienced it on several of my cars over the
years. Battery terminal corrosion will reduce the available amperage by 50%
with a corresponding drop in voltage, and it doesn’t take much corrosion
either.
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 22:31:13 -0400
Subject: XKE Headliner
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know how to
remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 332-9302) has
started manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I will keep
the list posted.
Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:40:10 -0400
Subject: Re: NOS question…
The “improved” gas being sold everywhere but especially in California might
eat the diaphragm of your NOS pump. Some of the materials used in the older
pumps don’t like alcohol at all. This might be what happened to your
existing pump. Maybe you can experiment by cutting a little piece of the
diaphragm from your old pump and immersing in alcohol. On second thought it
might be more fun to immerse yourself in alcohol.
Dave 1952 XK120 rdstr 1960 Morgan +4 1953 MGTD
From: Bob Whiles 71561.2752@compuserve.com
Date: 28 Jun 96 21:39:37 EDT
Subject: Reupholstering XJ6
Greetings Adam,
You wrote,
Fellow Jag-lovers
I am thinking that my Series III XJ could
do with having the seats recovered and the carpets
replaced. I have no problem with doing the
carpeting job, however some questions about the seats. Has
anyone done this particular job and what tools are
required (esp any that the usual tool box won’t have)? Am
I being an idiot to attempt to do this job myself?- I don’t
mind taking time but I do want it to look and feel correct
when it’s done. Lastly,any recommendations as to vendors
(in USA)? BAS? Bassetts? etc. Much thanks
Best
regards,
A.J. Owens
I was told by a shop owner one time “the job is always easier when you don’t
know what you are doing.” My wife and I own a trim shop. The basic tools for
auto upholstery are
- Set of Hog Ring Pliers $8-$15US
- Hog Rings
This is assuming that you are buying the covers pre-made. I have not done our
Jag yet, but sometimes a seat cover needs a little hand stiching.
I hope this helps,
Bob Whiles, Redlands CA USA 71561.2752@compuserve.com
86 Jaguar XJ6 S3
Dreaming for an E Type (I want one of each)
- → "So what is there about a picture of a pretty girl wearing
- → a Bikini, High Heals and standing next to a beautiful
- → car that doesn’t make sense?"
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 20:17:29 -0500
Subject: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.
My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.
Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.
Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 00:00:08 -0400
Subject: Panther sportscar.
Does anyone know anything about the Panther sportscar? I saw one advertised
locally. It looks a bit like the SS-100, but carries modern Jag running
gear. Body is aluminum, so I would imagine that is quite fast, despite the
retro design and primitive aerodynamics. According to the ad, it was
factory-built in UK in 1981. What are they worth? Any experiences?
From: GFoster737@gnn.com (Gerald Foster)
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 23:03:19
Subject: Bob Whiles Electric Failure
Bob.
Clean your battery terminals, re-tighten them, charge the battery. This
usually does the trick, I’ve experienced it on several of my cars over the
years. Battery terminal corrosion will reduce the available amperage by 50%
with a corresponding drop in voltage, and it doesn’t take much corrosion
either.
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:10:04 -0700
Subject: Multiple Message Copies
Is anyone here getting multiple copies of messages? I think I’m up to 5
copies of the same messages.
========================================================
Michael P. Neal Master Jaguar Technician
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:02:31 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Scott,
88-89 XJ40’s run 13.5 to 14V. 13 is slightly low but usually nothing to
worry about. 14.5 volts usually means the battery is going south. All my data
here is at 70-90 degrees ambient, lights off on US spec cars. Coolant
temperature is generally in the 85-90 degree range. 80 in the winter is
probably ok. Anything below 85 during normal test conditions usually indicates
a bad thermostat. On a few occasions I have also had the coolant temp sender
for the gauge go bad. Oil pressure depends on what kind of sender the car has.
The early cars had a SIII type sender that read high. At cruising speed it
will read 80 psi. The correct sender reads 60 at 2000rpm cruising. Idle is 65
for the early sender and 35-45 for the late sender. I keep a data base on all
my customers cars to establish baseline data. If anyone is interested in more
details let me know.
Scott W. Phillips wrote:
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
========================================================
Michael P. Neal Master Jaguar Technician
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 22:31:13 -0400
Subject: XKE Headliner
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know how to
remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 332-9302) has
started manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I will keep
the list posted.
Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:40:10 -0400
Subject: Re: NOS question…
The “improved” gas being sold everywhere but especially in California might
eat the diaphragm of your NOS pump. Some of the materials used in the older
pumps don’t like alcohol at all. This might be what happened to your
existing pump. Maybe you can experiment by cutting a little piece of the
diaphragm from your old pump and immersing in alcohol. On second thought it
might be more fun to immerse yourself in alcohol.
Dave 1952 XK120 rdstr 1960 Morgan +4 1953 MGTD
From: Bob Whiles 71561.2752@compuserve.com
Date: 28 Jun 96 21:39:37 EDT
Subject: Reupholstering XJ6
Greetings Adam,
You wrote,
Fellow Jag-lovers
I am thinking that my Series III XJ could
do with having the seats recovered and the carpets
replaced. I have no problem with doing the
carpeting job, however some questions about the seats. Has
anyone done this particular job and what tools are
required (esp any that the usual tool box won’t have)? Am
I being an idiot to attempt to do this job myself?- I don’t
mind taking time but I do want it to look and feel correct
when it’s done. Lastly,any recommendations as to vendors
(in USA)? BAS? Bassetts? etc. Much thanks
Best
regards,
A.J. Owens
I was told by a shop owner one time “the job is always easier when you don’t
know what you are doing.” My wife and I own a trim shop. The basic tools for
auto upholstery are
- Set of Hog Ring Pliers $8-$15US
- Hog Rings
This is assuming that you are buying the covers pre-made. I have not done our
Jag yet, but sometimes a seat cover needs a little hand stiching.
I hope this helps,
Bob Whiles, Redlands CA USA 71561.2752@compuserve.com
86 Jaguar XJ6 S3
Dreaming for an E Type (I want one of each)
- → "So what is there about a picture of a pretty girl wearing
- → a Bikini, High Heals and standing next to a beautiful
- → car that doesn’t make sense?"
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 20:17:29 -0500
Subject: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.
My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.
Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.
Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #176
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jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 29 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 177
Multiple Message Copies
Re: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Panther sportscar.
Bob Whiles Electric Failure
XKE Headliner
Re: NOS question…
Reupholstering XJ6
XJ40 “normal” ranges
Multiple Message Copies
Re: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Panther sportscar.
Bob Whiles Electric Failure
XKE Headliner
Re: NOS question…
Reupholstering XJ6
XJ40 “normal” ranges
Multiple Message Copies
Re: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Panther sportscar.
Bob Whiles Electric Failure
XKE Headliner
Re: NOS question…
Reupholstering XJ6
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:10:04 -0700
Subject: Multiple Message Copies
Is anyone here getting multiple copies of messages? I think I’m up to 5
copies of the same messages.
========================================================
Michael P. Neal Master Jaguar Technician
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:02:31 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Scott,
88-89 XJ40’s run 13.5 to 14V. 13 is slightly low but usually nothing to
worry about. 14.5 volts usually means the battery is going south. All my data
here is at 70-90 degrees ambient, lights off on US spec cars. Coolant
temperature is generally in the 85-90 degree range. 80 in the winter is
probably ok. Anything below 85 during normal test conditions usually indicates
a bad thermostat. On a few occasions I have also had the coolant temp sender
for the gauge go bad. Oil pressure depends on what kind of sender the car has.
The early cars had a SIII type sender that read high. At cruising speed it
will read 80 psi. The correct sender reads 60 at 2000rpm cruising. Idle is 65
for the early sender and 35-45 for the late sender. I keep a data base on all
my customers cars to establish baseline data. If anyone is interested in more
details let me know.
Scott W. Phillips wrote:
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
========================================================
Michael P. Neal Master Jaguar Technician
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 00:00:08 -0400
Subject: Panther sportscar.
Does anyone know anything about the Panther sportscar? I saw one advertised
locally. It looks a bit like the SS-100, but carries modern Jag running
gear. Body is aluminum, so I would imagine that is quite fast, despite the
retro design and primitive aerodynamics. According to the ad, it was
factory-built in UK in 1981. What are they worth? Any experiences?
From: GFoster737@gnn.com (Gerald Foster)
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 23:03:19
Subject: Bob Whiles Electric Failure
Bob.
Clean your battery terminals, re-tighten them, charge the battery. This
usually does the trick, I’ve experienced it on several of my cars over the
years. Battery terminal corrosion will reduce the available amperage by 50%
with a corresponding drop in voltage, and it doesn’t take much corrosion
either.
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 22:31:13 -0400
Subject: XKE Headliner
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know how to
remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 332-9302) has
started manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I will keep
the list posted.
Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:40:10 -0400
Subject: Re: NOS question…
The “improved” gas being sold everywhere but especially in California might
eat the diaphragm of your NOS pump. Some of the materials used in the older
pumps don’t like alcohol at all. This might be what happened to your
existing pump. Maybe you can experiment by cutting a little piece of the
diaphragm from your old pump and immersing in alcohol. On second thought it
might be more fun to immerse yourself in alcohol.
Dave 1952 XK120 rdstr 1960 Morgan +4 1953 MGTD
From: Bob Whiles 71561.2752@compuserve.com
Date: 28 Jun 96 21:39:37 EDT
Subject: Reupholstering XJ6
Greetings Adam,
You wrote,
Fellow Jag-lovers
I am thinking that my Series III XJ could
do with having the seats recovered and the carpets
replaced. I have no problem with doing the
carpeting job, however some questions about the seats. Has
anyone done this particular job and what tools are
required (esp any that the usual tool box won’t have)? Am
I being an idiot to attempt to do this job myself?- I don’t
mind taking time but I do want it to look and feel correct
when it’s done. Lastly,any recommendations as to vendors
(in USA)? BAS? Bassetts? etc. Much thanks
Best
regards,
A.J. Owens
I was told by a shop owner one time “the job is always easier when you don’t
know what you are doing.” My wife and I own a trim shop. The basic tools for
auto upholstery are
- Set of Hog Ring Pliers $8-$15US
- Hog Rings
This is assuming that you are buying the covers pre-made. I have not done our
Jag yet, but sometimes a seat cover needs a little hand stiching.
I hope this helps,
Bob Whiles, Redlands CA USA 71561.2752@compuserve.com
86 Jaguar XJ6 S3
Dreaming for an E Type (I want one of each)
- → "So what is there about a picture of a pretty girl wearing
- → a Bikini, High Heals and standing next to a beautiful
- → car that doesn’t make sense?"
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 20:17:29 -0500
Subject: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.
My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.
Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.
Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:10:04 -0700
Subject: Multiple Message Copies
Is anyone here getting multiple copies of messages? I think I’m up to 5
copies of the same messages.
========================================================
Michael P. Neal Master Jaguar Technician
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:02:31 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Scott,
88-89 XJ40’s run 13.5 to 14V. 13 is slightly low but usually nothing to
worry about. 14.5 volts usually means the battery is going south. All my data
here is at 70-90 degrees ambient, lights off on US spec cars. Coolant
temperature is generally in the 85-90 degree range. 80 in the winter is
probably ok. Anything below 85 during normal test conditions usually indicates
a bad thermostat. On a few occasions I have also had the coolant temp sender
for the gauge go bad. Oil pressure depends on what kind of sender the car has.
The early cars had a SIII type sender that read high. At cruising speed it
will read 80 psi. The correct sender reads 60 at 2000rpm cruising. Idle is 65
for the early sender and 35-45 for the late sender. I keep a data base on all
my customers cars to establish baseline data. If anyone is interested in more
details let me know.
Scott W. Phillips wrote:
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
========================================================
Michael P. Neal Master Jaguar Technician
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 00:00:08 -0400
Subject: Panther sportscar.
Does anyone know anything about the Panther sportscar? I saw one advertised
locally. It looks a bit like the SS-100, but carries modern Jag running
gear. Body is aluminum, so I would imagine that is quite fast, despite the
retro design and primitive aerodynamics. According to the ad, it was
factory-built in UK in 1981. What are they worth? Any experiences?
From: GFoster737@gnn.com (Gerald Foster)
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 23:03:19
Subject: Bob Whiles Electric Failure
Bob.
Clean your battery terminals, re-tighten them, charge the battery. This
usually does the trick, I’ve experienced it on several of my cars over the
years. Battery terminal corrosion will reduce the available amperage by 50%
with a corresponding drop in voltage, and it doesn’t take much corrosion
either.
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 22:31:13 -0400
Subject: XKE Headliner
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know how to
remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 332-9302) has
started manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I will keep
the list posted.
Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:40:10 -0400
Subject: Re: NOS question…
The “improved” gas being sold everywhere but especially in California might
eat the diaphragm of your NOS pump. Some of the materials used in the older
pumps don’t like alcohol at all. This might be what happened to your
existing pump. Maybe you can experiment by cutting a little piece of the
diaphragm from your old pump and immersing in alcohol. On second thought it
might be more fun to immerse yourself in alcohol.
Dave 1952 XK120 rdstr 1960 Morgan +4 1953 MGTD
From: Bob Whiles 71561.2752@compuserve.com
Date: 28 Jun 96 21:39:37 EDT
Subject: Reupholstering XJ6
Greetings Adam,
You wrote,
Fellow Jag-lovers
I am thinking that my Series III XJ could
do with having the seats recovered and the carpets
replaced. I have no problem with doing the
carpeting job, however some questions about the seats. Has
anyone done this particular job and what tools are
required (esp any that the usual tool box won’t have)? Am
I being an idiot to attempt to do this job myself?- I don’t
mind taking time but I do want it to look and feel correct
when it’s done. Lastly,any recommendations as to vendors
(in USA)? BAS? Bassetts? etc. Much thanks
Best
regards,
A.J. Owens
I was told by a shop owner one time “the job is always easier when you don’t
know what you are doing.” My wife and I own a trim shop. The basic tools for
auto upholstery are
- Set of Hog Ring Pliers $8-$15US
- Hog Rings
This is assuming that you are buying the covers pre-made. I have not done our
Jag yet, but sometimes a seat cover needs a little hand stiching.
I hope this helps,
Bob Whiles, Redlands CA USA 71561.2752@compuserve.com
86 Jaguar XJ6 S3
Dreaming for an E Type (I want one of each)
- → "So what is there about a picture of a pretty girl wearing
- → a Bikini, High Heals and standing next to a beautiful
- → car that doesn’t make sense?"
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 20:17:29 -0500
Subject: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.
My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.
Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.
Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:10:04 -0700
Subject: Multiple Message Copies
Is anyone here getting multiple copies of messages? I think I’m up to 5
copies of the same messages.
========================================================
Michael P. Neal Master Jaguar Technician
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:02:31 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Scott,
88-89 XJ40’s run 13.5 to 14V. 13 is slightly low but usually nothing to
worry about. 14.5 volts usually means the battery is going south. All my data
here is at 70-90 degrees ambient, lights off on US spec cars. Coolant
temperature is generally in the 85-90 degree range. 80 in the winter is
probably ok. Anything below 85 during normal test conditions usually indicates
a bad thermostat. On a few occasions I have also had the coolant temp sender
for the gauge go bad. Oil pressure depends on what kind of sender the car has.
The early cars had a SIII type sender that read high. At cruising speed it
will read 80 psi. The correct sender reads 60 at 2000rpm cruising. Idle is 65
for the early sender and 35-45 for the late sender. I keep a data base on all
my customers cars to establish baseline data. If anyone is interested in more
details let me know.
Scott W. Phillips wrote:
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
========================================================
Michael P. Neal Master Jaguar Technician
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 00:00:08 -0400
Subject: Panther sportscar.
Does anyone know anything about the Panther sportscar? I saw one advertised
locally. It looks a bit like the SS-100, but carries modern Jag running
gear. Body is aluminum, so I would imagine that is quite fast, despite the
retro design and primitive aerodynamics. According to the ad, it was
factory-built in UK in 1981. What are they worth? Any experiences?
From: GFoster737@gnn.com (Gerald Foster)
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 23:03:19
Subject: Bob Whiles Electric Failure
Bob.
Clean your battery terminals, re-tighten them, charge the battery. This
usually does the trick, I’ve experienced it on several of my cars over the
years. Battery terminal corrosion will reduce the available amperage by 50%
with a corresponding drop in voltage, and it doesn’t take much corrosion
either.
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 22:31:13 -0400
Subject: XKE Headliner
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know how to
remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 332-9302) has
started manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I will keep
the list posted.
Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:40:10 -0400
Subject: Re: NOS question…
The “improved” gas being sold everywhere but especially in California might
eat the diaphragm of your NOS pump. Some of the materials used in the older
pumps don’t like alcohol at all. This might be what happened to your
existing pump. Maybe you can experiment by cutting a little piece of the
diaphragm from your old pump and immersing in alcohol. On second thought it
might be more fun to immerse yourself in alcohol.
Dave 1952 XK120 rdstr 1960 Morgan +4 1953 MGTD
From: Bob Whiles 71561.2752@compuserve.com
Date: 28 Jun 96 21:39:37 EDT
Subject: Reupholstering XJ6
Greetings Adam,
You wrote,
Fellow Jag-lovers
I am thinking that my Series III XJ could
do with having the seats recovered and the carpets
replaced. I have no problem with doing the
carpeting job, however some questions about the seats. Has
anyone done this particular job and what tools are
required (esp any that the usual tool box won’t have)? Am
I being an idiot to attempt to do this job myself?- I don’t
mind taking time but I do want it to look and feel correct
when it’s done. Lastly,any recommendations as to vendors
(in USA)? BAS? Bassetts? etc. Much thanks
Best
regards,
A.J. Owens
I was told by a shop owner one time “the job is always easier when you don’t
know what you are doing.” My wife and I own a trim shop. The basic tools for
auto upholstery are
- Set of Hog Ring Pliers $8-$15US
- Hog Rings
This is assuming that you are buying the covers pre-made. I have not done our
Jag yet, but sometimes a seat cover needs a little hand stiching.
I hope this helps,
Bob Whiles, Redlands CA USA 71561.2752@compuserve.com
86 Jaguar XJ6 S3
Dreaming for an E Type (I want one of each)
- → "So what is there about a picture of a pretty girl wearing
- → a Bikini, High Heals and standing next to a beautiful
- → car that doesn’t make sense?"
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #177
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jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 29 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 178
XJ40 “normal” ranges
Multiple Message Copies
Re: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Panther sportscar.
Bob Whiles Electric Failure
XKE Headliner
Re: NOS question…
Reupholstering XJ6
XJ40 “normal” ranges
Multiple Message Copies
Re: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Panther sportscar.
Bob Whiles Electric Failure
XKE Headliner
Re: NOS question…
Reupholstering XJ6
XJ40 “normal” ranges
Multiple Message Copies
Re: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Panther sportscar.
Bob Whiles Electric Failure
XKE Headliner
Re: NOS question…
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 20:17:29 -0500
Subject: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.
My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.
Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.
Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:10:04 -0700
Subject: Multiple Message Copies
Is anyone here getting multiple copies of messages? I think I’m up to 5
copies of the same messages.
========================================================
Michael P. Neal Master Jaguar Technician
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:02:31 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Scott,
88-89 XJ40’s run 13.5 to 14V. 13 is slightly low but usually nothing to
worry about. 14.5 volts usually means the battery is going south. All my data
here is at 70-90 degrees ambient, lights off on US spec cars. Coolant
temperature is generally in the 85-90 degree range. 80 in the winter is
probably ok. Anything below 85 during normal test conditions usually indicates
a bad thermostat. On a few occasions I have also had the coolant temp sender
for the gauge go bad. Oil pressure depends on what kind of sender the car has.
The early cars had a SIII type sender that read high. At cruising speed it
will read 80 psi. The correct sender reads 60 at 2000rpm cruising. Idle is 65
for the early sender and 35-45 for the late sender. I keep a data base on all
my customers cars to establish baseline data. If anyone is interested in more
details let me know.
Scott W. Phillips wrote:
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
========================================================
Michael P. Neal Master Jaguar Technician
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 00:00:08 -0400
Subject: Panther sportscar.
Does anyone know anything about the Panther sportscar? I saw one advertised
locally. It looks a bit like the SS-100, but carries modern Jag running
gear. Body is aluminum, so I would imagine that is quite fast, despite the
retro design and primitive aerodynamics. According to the ad, it was
factory-built in UK in 1981. What are they worth? Any experiences?
From: GFoster737@gnn.com (Gerald Foster)
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 23:03:19
Subject: Bob Whiles Electric Failure
Bob.
Clean your battery terminals, re-tighten them, charge the battery. This
usually does the trick, I’ve experienced it on several of my cars over the
years. Battery terminal corrosion will reduce the available amperage by 50%
with a corresponding drop in voltage, and it doesn’t take much corrosion
either.
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 22:31:13 -0400
Subject: XKE Headliner
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know how to
remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 332-9302) has
started manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I will keep
the list posted.
Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:40:10 -0400
Subject: Re: NOS question…
The “improved” gas being sold everywhere but especially in California might
eat the diaphragm of your NOS pump. Some of the materials used in the older
pumps don’t like alcohol at all. This might be what happened to your
existing pump. Maybe you can experiment by cutting a little piece of the
diaphragm from your old pump and immersing in alcohol. On second thought it
might be more fun to immerse yourself in alcohol.
Dave 1952 XK120 rdstr 1960 Morgan +4 1953 MGTD
From: Bob Whiles 71561.2752@compuserve.com
Date: 28 Jun 96 21:39:37 EDT
Subject: Reupholstering XJ6
Greetings Adam,
You wrote,
Fellow Jag-lovers
I am thinking that my Series III XJ could
do with having the seats recovered and the carpets
replaced. I have no problem with doing the
carpeting job, however some questions about the seats. Has
anyone done this particular job and what tools are
required (esp any that the usual tool box won’t have)? Am
I being an idiot to attempt to do this job myself?- I don’t
mind taking time but I do want it to look and feel correct
when it’s done. Lastly,any recommendations as to vendors
(in USA)? BAS? Bassetts? etc. Much thanks
Best
regards,
A.J. Owens
I was told by a shop owner one time “the job is always easier when you don’t
know what you are doing.” My wife and I own a trim shop. The basic tools for
auto upholstery are
- Set of Hog Ring Pliers $8-$15US
- Hog Rings
This is assuming that you are buying the covers pre-made. I have not done our
Jag yet, but sometimes a seat cover needs a little hand stiching.
I hope this helps,
Bob Whiles, Redlands CA USA 71561.2752@compuserve.com
86 Jaguar XJ6 S3
Dreaming for an E Type (I want one of each)
- → "So what is there about a picture of a pretty girl wearing
- → a Bikini, High Heals and standing next to a beautiful
- → car that doesn’t make sense?"
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 20:17:29 -0500
Subject: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.
My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.
Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.
Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:10:04 -0700
Subject: Multiple Message Copies
Is anyone here getting multiple copies of messages? I think I’m up to 5
copies of the same messages.
========================================================
Michael P. Neal Master Jaguar Technician
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:02:31 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Scott,
88-89 XJ40’s run 13.5 to 14V. 13 is slightly low but usually nothing to
worry about. 14.5 volts usually means the battery is going south. All my data
here is at 70-90 degrees ambient, lights off on US spec cars. Coolant
temperature is generally in the 85-90 degree range. 80 in the winter is
probably ok. Anything below 85 during normal test conditions usually indicates
a bad thermostat. On a few occasions I have also had the coolant temp sender
for the gauge go bad. Oil pressure depends on what kind of sender the car has.
The early cars had a SIII type sender that read high. At cruising speed it
will read 80 psi. The correct sender reads 60 at 2000rpm cruising. Idle is 65
for the early sender and 35-45 for the late sender. I keep a data base on all
my customers cars to establish baseline data. If anyone is interested in more
details let me know.
Scott W. Phillips wrote:
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
========================================================
Michael P. Neal Master Jaguar Technician
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 00:00:08 -0400
Subject: Panther sportscar.
Does anyone know anything about the Panther sportscar? I saw one advertised
locally. It looks a bit like the SS-100, but carries modern Jag running
gear. Body is aluminum, so I would imagine that is quite fast, despite the
retro design and primitive aerodynamics. According to the ad, it was
factory-built in UK in 1981. What are they worth? Any experiences?
From: GFoster737@gnn.com (Gerald Foster)
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 23:03:19
Subject: Bob Whiles Electric Failure
Bob.
Clean your battery terminals, re-tighten them, charge the battery. This
usually does the trick, I’ve experienced it on several of my cars over the
years. Battery terminal corrosion will reduce the available amperage by 50%
with a corresponding drop in voltage, and it doesn’t take much corrosion
either.
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 22:31:13 -0400
Subject: XKE Headliner
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know how to
remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 332-9302) has
started manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I will keep
the list posted.
Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:40:10 -0400
Subject: Re: NOS question…
The “improved” gas being sold everywhere but especially in California might
eat the diaphragm of your NOS pump. Some of the materials used in the older
pumps don’t like alcohol at all. This might be what happened to your
existing pump. Maybe you can experiment by cutting a little piece of the
diaphragm from your old pump and immersing in alcohol. On second thought it
might be more fun to immerse yourself in alcohol.
Dave 1952 XK120 rdstr 1960 Morgan +4 1953 MGTD
From: Bob Whiles 71561.2752@compuserve.com
Date: 28 Jun 96 21:39:37 EDT
Subject: Reupholstering XJ6
Greetings Adam,
You wrote,
Fellow Jag-lovers
I am thinking that my Series III XJ could
do with having the seats recovered and the carpets
replaced. I have no problem with doing the
carpeting job, however some questions about the seats. Has
anyone done this particular job and what tools are
required (esp any that the usual tool box won’t have)? Am
I being an idiot to attempt to do this job myself?- I don’t
mind taking time but I do want it to look and feel correct
when it’s done. Lastly,any recommendations as to vendors
(in USA)? BAS? Bassetts? etc. Much thanks
Best
regards,
A.J. Owens
I was told by a shop owner one time “the job is always easier when you don’t
know what you are doing.” My wife and I own a trim shop. The basic tools for
auto upholstery are
- Set of Hog Ring Pliers $8-$15US
- Hog Rings
This is assuming that you are buying the covers pre-made. I have not done our
Jag yet, but sometimes a seat cover needs a little hand stiching.
I hope this helps,
Bob Whiles, Redlands CA USA 71561.2752@compuserve.com
86 Jaguar XJ6 S3
Dreaming for an E Type (I want one of each)
- → "So what is there about a picture of a pretty girl wearing
- → a Bikini, High Heals and standing next to a beautiful
- → car that doesn’t make sense?"
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 20:17:29 -0500
Subject: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.
My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.
Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.
Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:10:04 -0700
Subject: Multiple Message Copies
Is anyone here getting multiple copies of messages? I think I’m up to 5
copies of the same messages.
========================================================
Michael P. Neal Master Jaguar Technician
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:02:31 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Scott,
88-89 XJ40’s run 13.5 to 14V. 13 is slightly low but usually nothing to
worry about. 14.5 volts usually means the battery is going south. All my data
here is at 70-90 degrees ambient, lights off on US spec cars. Coolant
temperature is generally in the 85-90 degree range. 80 in the winter is
probably ok. Anything below 85 during normal test conditions usually indicates
a bad thermostat. On a few occasions I have also had the coolant temp sender
for the gauge go bad. Oil pressure depends on what kind of sender the car has.
The early cars had a SIII type sender that read high. At cruising speed it
will read 80 psi. The correct sender reads 60 at 2000rpm cruising. Idle is 65
for the early sender and 35-45 for the late sender. I keep a data base on all
my customers cars to establish baseline data. If anyone is interested in more
details let me know.
Scott W. Phillips wrote:
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
========================================================
Michael P. Neal Master Jaguar Technician
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 00:00:08 -0400
Subject: Panther sportscar.
Does anyone know anything about the Panther sportscar? I saw one advertised
locally. It looks a bit like the SS-100, but carries modern Jag running
gear. Body is aluminum, so I would imagine that is quite fast, despite the
retro design and primitive aerodynamics. According to the ad, it was
factory-built in UK in 1981. What are they worth? Any experiences?
From: GFoster737@gnn.com (Gerald Foster)
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 23:03:19
Subject: Bob Whiles Electric Failure
Bob.
Clean your battery terminals, re-tighten them, charge the battery. This
usually does the trick, I’ve experienced it on several of my cars over the
years. Battery terminal corrosion will reduce the available amperage by 50%
with a corresponding drop in voltage, and it doesn’t take much corrosion
either.
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 22:31:13 -0400
Subject: XKE Headliner
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know how to
remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 332-9302) has
started manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I will keep
the list posted.
Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:40:10 -0400
Subject: Re: NOS question…
The “improved” gas being sold everywhere but especially in California might
eat the diaphragm of your NOS pump. Some of the materials used in the older
pumps don’t like alcohol at all. This might be what happened to your
existing pump. Maybe you can experiment by cutting a little piece of the
diaphragm from your old pump and immersing in alcohol. On second thought it
might be more fun to immerse yourself in alcohol.
Dave 1952 XK120 rdstr 1960 Morgan +4 1953 MGTD
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #178
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jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 29 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 179
Reupholstering XJ6
XJ40 “normal” ranges
Multiple Message Copies
Re: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Panther sportscar.
Bob Whiles Electric Failure
XKE Headliner
Re: NOS question…
Reupholstering XJ6
XJ40 “normal” ranges
Re: Multiple Message Copies
Multiple Message Copies
Re: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Panther sportscar.
Bob Whiles Electric Failure
XKE Headliner
Re: NOS question…
Reupholstering XJ6
XJ40 “normal” ranges
Re: Multiple Message Copies
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #177
Multiple Message Copies
Re: XJ40 “normal” ranges
From: Bob Whiles 71561.2752@compuserve.com
Date: 28 Jun 96 21:39:37 EDT
Subject: Reupholstering XJ6
Greetings Adam,
You wrote,
Fellow Jag-lovers
I am thinking that my Series III XJ could
do with having the seats recovered and the carpets
replaced. I have no problem with doing the
carpeting job, however some questions about the seats. Has
anyone done this particular job and what tools are
required (esp any that the usual tool box won’t have)? Am
I being an idiot to attempt to do this job myself?- I don’t
mind taking time but I do want it to look and feel correct
when it’s done. Lastly,any recommendations as to vendors
(in USA)? BAS? Bassetts? etc. Much thanks
Best
regards,
A.J. Owens
I was told by a shop owner one time “the job is always easier when you don’t
know what you are doing.” My wife and I own a trim shop. The basic tools for
auto upholstery are
- Set of Hog Ring Pliers $8-$15US
- Hog Rings
This is assuming that you are buying the covers pre-made. I have not done our
Jag yet, but sometimes a seat cover needs a little hand stiching.
I hope this helps,
Bob Whiles, Redlands CA USA 71561.2752@compuserve.com
86 Jaguar XJ6 S3
Dreaming for an E Type (I want one of each)
- → "So what is there about a picture of a pretty girl wearing
- → a Bikini, High Heals and standing next to a beautiful
- → car that doesn’t make sense?"
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 20:17:29 -0500
Subject: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.
My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.
Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.
Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:10:04 -0700
Subject: Multiple Message Copies
Is anyone here getting multiple copies of messages? I think I’m up to 5
copies of the same messages.
========================================================
Michael P. Neal Master Jaguar Technician
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:02:31 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Scott,
88-89 XJ40’s run 13.5 to 14V. 13 is slightly low but usually nothing to
worry about. 14.5 volts usually means the battery is going south. All my data
here is at 70-90 degrees ambient, lights off on US spec cars. Coolant
temperature is generally in the 85-90 degree range. 80 in the winter is
probably ok. Anything below 85 during normal test conditions usually indicates
a bad thermostat. On a few occasions I have also had the coolant temp sender
for the gauge go bad. Oil pressure depends on what kind of sender the car has.
The early cars had a SIII type sender that read high. At cruising speed it
will read 80 psi. The correct sender reads 60 at 2000rpm cruising. Idle is 65
for the early sender and 35-45 for the late sender. I keep a data base on all
my customers cars to establish baseline data. If anyone is interested in more
details let me know.
Scott W. Phillips wrote:
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
========================================================
Michael P. Neal Master Jaguar Technician
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 00:00:08 -0400
Subject: Panther sportscar.
Does anyone know anything about the Panther sportscar? I saw one advertised
locally. It looks a bit like the SS-100, but carries modern Jag running
gear. Body is aluminum, so I would imagine that is quite fast, despite the
retro design and primitive aerodynamics. According to the ad, it was
factory-built in UK in 1981. What are they worth? Any experiences?
From: GFoster737@gnn.com (Gerald Foster)
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 23:03:19
Subject: Bob Whiles Electric Failure
Bob.
Clean your battery terminals, re-tighten them, charge the battery. This
usually does the trick, I’ve experienced it on several of my cars over the
years. Battery terminal corrosion will reduce the available amperage by 50%
with a corresponding drop in voltage, and it doesn’t take much corrosion
either.
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 22:31:13 -0400
Subject: XKE Headliner
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know how to
remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 332-9302) has
started manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I will keep
the list posted.
Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:40:10 -0400
Subject: Re: NOS question…
The “improved” gas being sold everywhere but especially in California might
eat the diaphragm of your NOS pump. Some of the materials used in the older
pumps don’t like alcohol at all. This might be what happened to your
existing pump. Maybe you can experiment by cutting a little piece of the
diaphragm from your old pump and immersing in alcohol. On second thought it
might be more fun to immerse yourself in alcohol.
Dave 1952 XK120 rdstr 1960 Morgan +4 1953 MGTD
From: Bob Whiles 71561.2752@compuserve.com
Date: 28 Jun 96 21:39:37 EDT
Subject: Reupholstering XJ6
Greetings Adam,
You wrote,
Fellow Jag-lovers
I am thinking that my Series III XJ could
do with having the seats recovered and the carpets
replaced. I have no problem with doing the
carpeting job, however some questions about the seats. Has
anyone done this particular job and what tools are
required (esp any that the usual tool box won’t have)? Am
I being an idiot to attempt to do this job myself?- I don’t
mind taking time but I do want it to look and feel correct
when it’s done. Lastly,any recommendations as to vendors
(in USA)? BAS? Bassetts? etc. Much thanks
Best
regards,
A.J. Owens
I was told by a shop owner one time “the job is always easier when you don’t
know what you are doing.” My wife and I own a trim shop. The basic tools for
auto upholstery are
- Set of Hog Ring Pliers $8-$15US
- Hog Rings
This is assuming that you are buying the covers pre-made. I have not done our
Jag yet, but sometimes a seat cover needs a little hand stiching.
I hope this helps,
Bob Whiles, Redlands CA USA 71561.2752@compuserve.com
86 Jaguar XJ6 S3
Dreaming for an E Type (I want one of each)
- → "So what is there about a picture of a pretty girl wearing
- → a Bikini, High Heals and standing next to a beautiful
- → car that doesn’t make sense?"
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 20:17:29 -0500
Subject: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.
My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.
Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.
Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
From: jorgen@tvnorge.no (Jorgen Scheel)
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 12:01:51 +0100
Subject: Re: Multiple Message Copies
Is anyone here getting multiple copies of messages? I think I’m up to 5
copies of the same messages.
Only 5? I`m getting more…
MK1 -59
jorgen@tvnorge.no
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:10:04 -0700
Subject: Multiple Message Copies
Is anyone here getting multiple copies of messages? I think I’m up to 5
copies of the same messages.
========================================================
Michael P. Neal Master Jaguar Technician
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:02:31 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Scott,
88-89 XJ40’s run 13.5 to 14V. 13 is slightly low but usually nothing to
worry about. 14.5 volts usually means the battery is going south. All my data
here is at 70-90 degrees ambient, lights off on US spec cars. Coolant
temperature is generally in the 85-90 degree range. 80 in the winter is
probably ok. Anything below 85 during normal test conditions usually indicates
a bad thermostat. On a few occasions I have also had the coolant temp sender
for the gauge go bad. Oil pressure depends on what kind of sender the car has.
The early cars had a SIII type sender that read high. At cruising speed it
will read 80 psi. The correct sender reads 60 at 2000rpm cruising. Idle is 65
for the early sender and 35-45 for the late sender. I keep a data base on all
my customers cars to establish baseline data. If anyone is interested in more
details let me know.
Scott W. Phillips wrote:
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
========================================================
Michael P. Neal Master Jaguar Technician
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 00:00:08 -0400
Subject: Panther sportscar.
Does anyone know anything about the Panther sportscar? I saw one advertised
locally. It looks a bit like the SS-100, but carries modern Jag running
gear. Body is aluminum, so I would imagine that is quite fast, despite the
retro design and primitive aerodynamics. According to the ad, it was
factory-built in UK in 1981. What are they worth? Any experiences?
From: GFoster737@gnn.com (Gerald Foster)
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 23:03:19
Subject: Bob Whiles Electric Failure
Bob.
Clean your battery terminals, re-tighten them, charge the battery. This
usually does the trick, I’ve experienced it on several of my cars over the
years. Battery terminal corrosion will reduce the available amperage by 50%
with a corresponding drop in voltage, and it doesn’t take much corrosion
either.
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 22:31:13 -0400
Subject: XKE Headliner
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know how to
remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 332-9302) has
started manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I will keep
the list posted.
Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:40:10 -0400
Subject: Re: NOS question…
The “improved” gas being sold everywhere but especially in California might
eat the diaphragm of your NOS pump. Some of the materials used in the older
pumps don’t like alcohol at all. This might be what happened to your
existing pump. Maybe you can experiment by cutting a little piece of the
diaphragm from your old pump and immersing in alcohol. On second thought it
might be more fun to immerse yourself in alcohol.
Dave 1952 XK120 rdstr 1960 Morgan +4 1953 MGTD
From: Bob Whiles 71561.2752@compuserve.com
Date: 28 Jun 96 21:39:37 EDT
Subject: Reupholstering XJ6
Greetings Adam,
You wrote,
Fellow Jag-lovers
I am thinking that my Series III XJ could
do with having the seats recovered and the carpets
replaced. I have no problem with doing the
carpeting job, however some questions about the seats. Has
anyone done this particular job and what tools are
required (esp any that the usual tool box won’t have)? Am
I being an idiot to attempt to do this job myself?- I don’t
mind taking time but I do want it to look and feel correct
when it’s done. Lastly,any recommendations as to vendors
(in USA)? BAS? Bassetts? etc. Much thanks
Best
regards,
A.J. Owens
I was told by a shop owner one time “the job is always easier when you don’t
know what you are doing.” My wife and I own a trim shop. The basic tools for
auto upholstery are
- Set of Hog Ring Pliers $8-$15US
- Hog Rings
This is assuming that you are buying the covers pre-made. I have not done our
Jag yet, but sometimes a seat cover needs a little hand stiching.
I hope this helps,
Bob Whiles, Redlands CA USA 71561.2752@compuserve.com
86 Jaguar XJ6 S3
Dreaming for an E Type (I want one of each)
- → "So what is there about a picture of a pretty girl wearing
- → a Bikini, High Heals and standing next to a beautiful
- → car that doesn’t make sense?"
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 20:17:29 -0500
Subject: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.
My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.
Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.
Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
From: jorgen@tvnorge.no (Jorgen Scheel)
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 12:01:51 +0100
Subject: Re: Multiple Message Copies
Is anyone here getting multiple copies of messages? I think I’m up to 5
copies of the same messages.
Only 5? I`m getting more…
MK1 -59
jorgen@tvnorge.no
From: “Terry Tegner” brewtec@global.co.za
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 00:31:36 +0200
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #177
WHOA BOY, not only am I getting multiple copeis but I’m now getting
multiple copies of a multiple copies query.
Terence Tegner
brewtec@global.co.za
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:10:04 -0700
Subject: Multiple Message Copies
Is anyone here getting multiple copies of messages? I think I’m up to 5
copies of the same messages.
========================================================
Michael P. Neal Master Jaguar Technician
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:02:31 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Scott,
88-89 XJ40’s run 13.5 to 14V. 13 is slightly low but usually nothing to
worry about. 14.5 volts usually means the battery is going south. All my data
here is at 70-90 degrees ambient, lights off on US spec cars. Coolant
temperature is generally in the 85-90 degree range. 80 in the winter is
probably ok. Anything below 85 during normal test conditions usually indicates
a bad thermostat. On a few occasions I have also had the coolant temp sender
for the gauge go bad. Oil pressure depends on what kind of sender the car has.
The early cars had a SIII type sender that read high. At cruising speed it
will read 80 psi. The correct sender reads 60 at 2000rpm cruising. Idle is 65
for the early sender and 35-45 for the late sender. I keep a data base on all
my customers cars to establish baseline data. If anyone is interested in more
details let me know.
Scott W. Phillips wrote:
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
========================================================
Michael P. Neal Master Jaguar Technician
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #179
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Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 13:54:05 +0200 (MET DST)
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jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 29 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 180
Panther sportscar.
Bob Whiles Electric Failure
XKE Headliner
Re: NOS question…
Reupholstering XJ6
XJ40 “normal” ranges
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #177
Re: Multiple Message Copies
Multiple Message Copies
Re: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Panther sportscar.
test #1
Bob Whiles Electric Failure
XKE Headliner
Re: NOS question…
Reupholstering XJ6
XJ40 “normal” ranges
test #1
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #177
Re: Multiple Message Copies
Multiple Message Copies
Re: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Panther sportscar.
Bob Whiles Electric Failure
XKE Headliner
Re: NOS question…
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 00:00:08 -0400
Subject: Panther sportscar.
Does anyone know anything about the Panther sportscar? I saw one advertised
locally. It looks a bit like the SS-100, but carries modern Jag running
gear. Body is aluminum, so I would imagine that is quite fast, despite the
retro design and primitive aerodynamics. According to the ad, it was
factory-built in UK in 1981. What are they worth? Any experiences?
From: GFoster737@gnn.com (Gerald Foster)
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 23:03:19
Subject: Bob Whiles Electric Failure
Bob.
Clean your battery terminals, re-tighten them, charge the battery. This
usually does the trick, I’ve experienced it on several of my cars over the
years. Battery terminal corrosion will reduce the available amperage by 50%
with a corresponding drop in voltage, and it doesn’t take much corrosion
either.
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 22:31:13 -0400
Subject: XKE Headliner
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know how to
remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 332-9302) has
started manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I will keep
the list posted.
Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:40:10 -0400
Subject: Re: NOS question…
The “improved” gas being sold everywhere but especially in California might
eat the diaphragm of your NOS pump. Some of the materials used in the older
pumps don’t like alcohol at all. This might be what happened to your
existing pump. Maybe you can experiment by cutting a little piece of the
diaphragm from your old pump and immersing in alcohol. On second thought it
might be more fun to immerse yourself in alcohol.
Dave 1952 XK120 rdstr 1960 Morgan +4 1953 MGTD
From: Bob Whiles 71561.2752@compuserve.com
Date: 28 Jun 96 21:39:37 EDT
Subject: Reupholstering XJ6
Greetings Adam,
You wrote,
Fellow Jag-lovers
I am thinking that my Series III XJ could
do with having the seats recovered and the carpets
replaced. I have no problem with doing the
carpeting job, however some questions about the seats. Has
anyone done this particular job and what tools are
required (esp any that the usual tool box won’t have)? Am
I being an idiot to attempt to do this job myself?- I don’t
mind taking time but I do want it to look and feel correct
when it’s done. Lastly,any recommendations as to vendors
(in USA)? BAS? Bassetts? etc. Much thanks
Best
regards,
A.J. Owens
I was told by a shop owner one time “the job is always easier when you don’t
know what you are doing.” My wife and I own a trim shop. The basic tools for
auto upholstery are
- Set of Hog Ring Pliers $8-$15US
- Hog Rings
This is assuming that you are buying the covers pre-made. I have not done our
Jag yet, but sometimes a seat cover needs a little hand stiching.
I hope this helps,
Bob Whiles, Redlands CA USA 71561.2752@compuserve.com
86 Jaguar XJ6 S3
Dreaming for an E Type (I want one of each)
- → "So what is there about a picture of a pretty girl wearing
- → a Bikini, High Heals and standing next to a beautiful
- → car that doesn’t make sense?"
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 20:17:29 -0500
Subject: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.
My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.
Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.
Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
From: “Terry Tegner” brewtec@global.co.za
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 00:31:36 +0200
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #177
WHOA BOY, not only am I getting multiple copeis but I’m now getting
multiple copies of a multiple copies query.
Terence Tegner
brewtec@global.co.za
From: jorgen@tvnorge.no (Jorgen Scheel)
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 12:01:51 +0100
Subject: Re: Multiple Message Copies
Is anyone here getting multiple copies of messages? I think I’m up to 5
copies of the same messages.
Only 5? I`m getting more…
MK1 -59
jorgen@tvnorge.no
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:10:04 -0700
Subject: Multiple Message Copies
Is anyone here getting multiple copies of messages? I think I’m up to 5
copies of the same messages.
========================================================
Michael P. Neal Master Jaguar Technician
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:02:31 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Scott,
88-89 XJ40’s run 13.5 to 14V. 13 is slightly low but usually nothing to
worry about. 14.5 volts usually means the battery is going south. All my data
here is at 70-90 degrees ambient, lights off on US spec cars. Coolant
temperature is generally in the 85-90 degree range. 80 in the winter is
probably ok. Anything below 85 during normal test conditions usually indicates
a bad thermostat. On a few occasions I have also had the coolant temp sender
for the gauge go bad. Oil pressure depends on what kind of sender the car has.
The early cars had a SIII type sender that read high. At cruising speed it
will read 80 psi. The correct sender reads 60 at 2000rpm cruising. Idle is 65
for the early sender and 35-45 for the late sender. I keep a data base on all
my customers cars to establish baseline data. If anyone is interested in more
details let me know.
Scott W. Phillips wrote:
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
========================================================
Michael P. Neal Master Jaguar Technician
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 00:00:08 -0400
Subject: Panther sportscar.
Does anyone know anything about the Panther sportscar? I saw one advertised
locally. It looks a bit like the SS-100, but carries modern Jag running
gear. Body is aluminum, so I would imagine that is quite fast, despite the
retro design and primitive aerodynamics. According to the ad, it was
factory-built in UK in 1981. What are they worth? Any experiences?
From: Stian W Arnesen stian@a.sn.no
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 13:14:02 +0200
Subject: test #1
- -Stian
From: GFoster737@gnn.com (Gerald Foster)
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 23:03:19
Subject: Bob Whiles Electric Failure
Bob.
Clean your battery terminals, re-tighten them, charge the battery. This
usually does the trick, I’ve experienced it on several of my cars over the
years. Battery terminal corrosion will reduce the available amperage by 50%
with a corresponding drop in voltage, and it doesn’t take much corrosion
either.
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 22:31:13 -0400
Subject: XKE Headliner
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know how to
remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 332-9302) has
started manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I will keep
the list posted.
Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:40:10 -0400
Subject: Re: NOS question…
The “improved” gas being sold everywhere but especially in California might
eat the diaphragm of your NOS pump. Some of the materials used in the older
pumps don’t like alcohol at all. This might be what happened to your
existing pump. Maybe you can experiment by cutting a little piece of the
diaphragm from your old pump and immersing in alcohol. On second thought it
might be more fun to immerse yourself in alcohol.
Dave 1952 XK120 rdstr 1960 Morgan +4 1953 MGTD
From: Bob Whiles 71561.2752@compuserve.com
Date: 28 Jun 96 21:39:37 EDT
Subject: Reupholstering XJ6
Greetings Adam,
You wrote,
Fellow Jag-lovers
I am thinking that my Series III XJ could
do with having the seats recovered and the carpets
replaced. I have no problem with doing the
carpeting job, however some questions about the seats. Has
anyone done this particular job and what tools are
required (esp any that the usual tool box won’t have)? Am
I being an idiot to attempt to do this job myself?- I don’t
mind taking time but I do want it to look and feel correct
when it’s done. Lastly,any recommendations as to vendors
(in USA)? BAS? Bassetts? etc. Much thanks
Best
regards,
A.J. Owens
I was told by a shop owner one time “the job is always easier when you don’t
know what you are doing.” My wife and I own a trim shop. The basic tools for
auto upholstery are
- Set of Hog Ring Pliers $8-$15US
- Hog Rings
This is assuming that you are buying the covers pre-made. I have not done our
Jag yet, but sometimes a seat cover needs a little hand stiching.
I hope this helps,
Bob Whiles, Redlands CA USA 71561.2752@compuserve.com
86 Jaguar XJ6 S3
Dreaming for an E Type (I want one of each)
- → "So what is there about a picture of a pretty girl wearing
- → a Bikini, High Heals and standing next to a beautiful
- → car that doesn’t make sense?"
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 20:17:29 -0500
Subject: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.
My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.
Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.
Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
From: Stian W Arnesen stian@a.sn.no
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 13:14:02 +0200
Subject: test #1
- -Stian
From: “Terry Tegner” brewtec@global.co.za
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 00:31:36 +0200
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #177
WHOA BOY, not only am I getting multiple copeis but I’m now getting
multiple copies of a multiple copies query.
Terence Tegner
brewtec@global.co.za
From: jorgen@tvnorge.no (Jorgen Scheel)
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 12:01:51 +0100
Subject: Re: Multiple Message Copies
Is anyone here getting multiple copies of messages? I think I’m up to 5
copies of the same messages.
Only 5? I`m getting more…
MK1 -59
jorgen@tvnorge.no
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:10:04 -0700
Subject: Multiple Message Copies
Is anyone here getting multiple copies of messages? I think I’m up to 5
copies of the same messages.
========================================================
Michael P. Neal Master Jaguar Technician
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:02:31 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Scott,
88-89 XJ40’s run 13.5 to 14V. 13 is slightly low but usually nothing to
worry about. 14.5 volts usually means the battery is going south. All my data
here is at 70-90 degrees ambient, lights off on US spec cars. Coolant
temperature is generally in the 85-90 degree range. 80 in the winter is
probably ok. Anything below 85 during normal test conditions usually indicates
a bad thermostat. On a few occasions I have also had the coolant temp sender
for the gauge go bad. Oil pressure depends on what kind of sender the car has.
The early cars had a SIII type sender that read high. At cruising speed it
will read 80 psi. The correct sender reads 60 at 2000rpm cruising. Idle is 65
for the early sender and 35-45 for the late sender. I keep a data base on all
my customers cars to establish baseline data. If anyone is interested in more
details let me know.
Scott W. Phillips wrote:
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
========================================================
Michael P. Neal Master Jaguar Technician
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 00:00:08 -0400
Subject: Panther sportscar.
Does anyone know anything about the Panther sportscar? I saw one advertised
locally. It looks a bit like the SS-100, but carries modern Jag running
gear. Body is aluminum, so I would imagine that is quite fast, despite the
retro design and primitive aerodynamics. According to the ad, it was
factory-built in UK in 1981. What are they worth? Any experiences?
From: GFoster737@gnn.com (Gerald Foster)
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 23:03:19
Subject: Bob Whiles Electric Failure
Bob.
Clean your battery terminals, re-tighten them, charge the battery. This
usually does the trick, I’ve experienced it on several of my cars over the
years. Battery terminal corrosion will reduce the available amperage by 50%
with a corresponding drop in voltage, and it doesn’t take much corrosion
either.
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 22:31:13 -0400
Subject: XKE Headliner
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know how to
remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 332-9302) has
started manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I will keep
the list posted.
Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:40:10 -0400
Subject: Re: NOS question…
The “improved” gas being sold everywhere but especially in California might
eat the diaphragm of your NOS pump. Some of the materials used in the older
pumps don’t like alcohol at all. This might be what happened to your
existing pump. Maybe you can experiment by cutting a little piece of the
diaphragm from your old pump and immersing in alcohol. On second thought it
might be more fun to immerse yourself in alcohol.
Dave 1952 XK120 rdstr 1960 Morgan +4 1953 MGTD
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #180
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jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 29 June 1996 Volume 02 : Number 181
Reupholstering XJ6
XJ40 “normal” ranges
test #1
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #177
Re: Multiple Message Copies
Multiple Message Copies
Re: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Panther sportscar.
Bob Whiles Electric Failure
XKE Headliner
Re: NOS question…
Reupholstering XJ6
XJ40 “normal” ranges
test #1
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #177
Re: Multiple Message Copies
Re: Multiple Message Copies
Multiple Message Copies
Re: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Panther sportscar.
Bob Whiles Electric Failure
XKE Headliner
Something is screwed up…
Re: NOS question…
Reupholstering XJ6
From: Bob Whiles 71561.2752@compuserve.com
Date: 28 Jun 96 21:39:37 EDT
Subject: Reupholstering XJ6
Greetings Adam,
You wrote,
Fellow Jag-lovers
I am thinking that my Series III XJ could
do with having the seats recovered and the carpets
replaced. I have no problem with doing the
carpeting job, however some questions about the seats. Has
anyone done this particular job and what tools are
required (esp any that the usual tool box won’t have)? Am
I being an idiot to attempt to do this job myself?- I don’t
mind taking time but I do want it to look and feel correct
when it’s done. Lastly,any recommendations as to vendors
(in USA)? BAS? Bassetts? etc. Much thanks
Best
regards,
A.J. Owens
I was told by a shop owner one time “the job is always easier when you don’t
know what you are doing.” My wife and I own a trim shop. The basic tools for
auto upholstery are
- Set of Hog Ring Pliers $8-$15US
- Hog Rings
This is assuming that you are buying the covers pre-made. I have not done our
Jag yet, but sometimes a seat cover needs a little hand stiching.
I hope this helps,
Bob Whiles, Redlands CA USA 71561.2752@compuserve.com
86 Jaguar XJ6 S3
Dreaming for an E Type (I want one of each)
- → "So what is there about a picture of a pretty girl wearing
- → a Bikini, High Heals and standing next to a beautiful
- → car that doesn’t make sense?"
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 20:17:29 -0500
Subject: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.
My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.
Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.
Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
From: Stian W Arnesen stian@a.sn.no
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 13:14:02 +0200
Subject: test #1
- -Stian
From: “Terry Tegner” brewtec@global.co.za
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 00:31:36 +0200
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #177
WHOA BOY, not only am I getting multiple copeis but I’m now getting
multiple copies of a multiple copies query.
Terence Tegner
brewtec@global.co.za
From: jorgen@tvnorge.no (Jorgen Scheel)
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 12:01:51 +0100
Subject: Re: Multiple Message Copies
Is anyone here getting multiple copies of messages? I think I’m up to 5
copies of the same messages.
Only 5? I`m getting more…
MK1 -59
jorgen@tvnorge.no
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:10:04 -0700
Subject: Multiple Message Copies
Is anyone here getting multiple copies of messages? I think I’m up to 5
copies of the same messages.
========================================================
Michael P. Neal Master Jaguar Technician
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:02:31 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Scott,
88-89 XJ40’s run 13.5 to 14V. 13 is slightly low but usually nothing to
worry about. 14.5 volts usually means the battery is going south. All my data
here is at 70-90 degrees ambient, lights off on US spec cars. Coolant
temperature is generally in the 85-90 degree range. 80 in the winter is
probably ok. Anything below 85 during normal test conditions usually indicates
a bad thermostat. On a few occasions I have also had the coolant temp sender
for the gauge go bad. Oil pressure depends on what kind of sender the car has.
The early cars had a SIII type sender that read high. At cruising speed it
will read 80 psi. The correct sender reads 60 at 2000rpm cruising. Idle is 65
for the early sender and 35-45 for the late sender. I keep a data base on all
my customers cars to establish baseline data. If anyone is interested in more
details let me know.
Scott W. Phillips wrote:
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
========================================================
Michael P. Neal Master Jaguar Technician
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 00:00:08 -0400
Subject: Panther sportscar.
Does anyone know anything about the Panther sportscar? I saw one advertised
locally. It looks a bit like the SS-100, but carries modern Jag running
gear. Body is aluminum, so I would imagine that is quite fast, despite the
retro design and primitive aerodynamics. According to the ad, it was
factory-built in UK in 1981. What are they worth? Any experiences?
From: GFoster737@gnn.com (Gerald Foster)
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 23:03:19
Subject: Bob Whiles Electric Failure
Bob.
Clean your battery terminals, re-tighten them, charge the battery. This
usually does the trick, I’ve experienced it on several of my cars over the
years. Battery terminal corrosion will reduce the available amperage by 50%
with a corresponding drop in voltage, and it doesn’t take much corrosion
either.
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 22:31:13 -0400
Subject: XKE Headliner
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know how to
remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 332-9302) has
started manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I will keep
the list posted.
Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:40:10 -0400
Subject: Re: NOS question…
The “improved” gas being sold everywhere but especially in California might
eat the diaphragm of your NOS pump. Some of the materials used in the older
pumps don’t like alcohol at all. This might be what happened to your
existing pump. Maybe you can experiment by cutting a little piece of the
diaphragm from your old pump and immersing in alcohol. On second thought it
might be more fun to immerse yourself in alcohol.
Dave 1952 XK120 rdstr 1960 Morgan +4 1953 MGTD
From: Bob Whiles 71561.2752@CompuServe.COM
Date: 28 Jun 96 21:39:37 EDT
Subject: Reupholstering XJ6
Greetings Adam,
You wrote,
Fellow Jag-lovers
I am thinking that my Series III XJ could
do with having the seats recovered and the carpets
replaced. I have no problem with doing the
carpeting job, however some questions about the seats. Has
anyone done this particular job and what tools are
required (esp any that the usual tool box won’t have)? Am
I being an idiot to attempt to do this job myself?- I don’t
mind taking time but I do want it to look and feel correct
when it’s done. Lastly,any recommendations as to vendors
(in USA)? BAS? Bassetts? etc. Much thanks
Best
regards,
A.J. Owens
I was told by a shop owner one time “the job is always easier when you don’t
know what you are doing.” My wife and I own a trim shop. The basic tools for
auto upholstery are
- Set of Hog Ring Pliers $8-$15US
- Hog Rings
This is assuming that you are buying the covers pre-made. I have not done our
Jag yet, but sometimes a seat cover needs a little hand stiching.
I hope this helps,
Bob Whiles, Redlands CA USA 71561.2752@compuserve.com
86 Jaguar XJ6 S3
Dreaming for an E Type (I want one of each)
- → "So what is there about a picture of a pretty girl wearing
- → a Bikini, High Heals and standing next to a beautiful
- → car that doesn’t make sense?"
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 20:17:29 -0500
Subject: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.
My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.
Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.
Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
From: Stian W Arnesen stian@a.sn.no
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 13:14:02 +0200
Subject: test #1
- -Stian
From: “Terry Tegner” brewtec@global.co.za
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 00:31:36 +0200
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #177
WHOA BOY, not only am I getting multiple copeis but I’m now getting
multiple copies of a multiple copies query.
Terence Tegner
brewtec@global.co.za
From: jorgen@tvnorge.no (Jorgen Scheel)
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 12:01:51 +0100
Subject: Re: Multiple Message Copies
Is anyone here getting multiple copies of messages? I think I’m up to 5
copies of the same messages.
Only 5? I`m getting more…
MK1 -59
jorgen@tvnorge.no
From: Peter Carpenter afp332@bangor.ac.uk
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 14:20:51 +0100 (BST)
Subject: Re: Multiple Message Copies
Just to add to everyone’s misery, my highest multiple copy is 34.
A bit of a shock to log on to find 180 messages waiting…
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:10:04 -0700
Subject: Multiple Message Copies
Is anyone here getting multiple copies of messages? I think I’m up to 5
copies of the same messages.
========================================================
Michael P. Neal Master Jaguar Technician
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:02:31 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Scott,
88-89 XJ40’s run 13.5 to 14V. 13 is slightly low but usually nothing to
worry about. 14.5 volts usually means the battery is going south. All my data
here is at 70-90 degrees ambient, lights off on US spec cars. Coolant
temperature is generally in the 85-90 degree range. 80 in the winter is
probably ok. Anything below 85 during normal test conditions usually indicates
a bad thermostat. On a few occasions I have also had the coolant temp sender
for the gauge go bad. Oil pressure depends on what kind of sender the car has.
The early cars had a SIII type sender that read high. At cruising speed it
will read 80 psi. The correct sender reads 60 at 2000rpm cruising. Idle is 65
for the early sender and 35-45 for the late sender. I keep a data base on all
my customers cars to establish baseline data. If anyone is interested in more
details let me know.
Scott W. Phillips wrote:
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
========================================================
Michael P. Neal Master Jaguar Technician
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 00:00:08 -0400
Subject: Panther sportscar.
Does anyone know anything about the Panther sportscar? I saw one advertised
locally. It looks a bit like the SS-100, but carries modern Jag running
gear. Body is aluminum, so I would imagine that is quite fast, despite the
retro design and primitive aerodynamics. According to the ad, it was
factory-built in UK in 1981. What are they worth? Any experiences?
From: GFoster737@gnn.com (Gerald Foster)
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 23:03:19
Subject: Bob Whiles Electric Failure
Bob.
Clean your battery terminals, re-tighten them, charge the battery. This
usually does the trick, I’ve experienced it on several of my cars over the
years. Battery terminal corrosion will reduce the available amperage by 50%
with a corresponding drop in voltage, and it doesn’t take much corrosion
either.
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 22:31:13 -0400
Subject: XKE Headliner
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know how to
remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 332-9302) has
started manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I will keep
the list posted.
Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 15:58:21 +0000
Subject: Something is screwed up…
Sorry about the screw-up with multiple messages going
out. There is something wrong with something somewhere…
We’re on the case, hope it will be fixed soon.
Nick
<<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>>
<<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>>
The JagWeb http://www.sn.no/~nick/jaguar.html <<<
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 21:40:10 -0400
Subject: Re: NOS question…
The “improved” gas being sold everywhere but especially in California might
eat the diaphragm of your NOS pump. Some of the materials used in the older
pumps don’t like alcohol at all. This might be what happened to your
existing pump. Maybe you can experiment by cutting a little piece of the
diaphragm from your old pump and immersing in alcohol. On second thought it
might be more fun to immerse yourself in alcohol.
Dave 1952 XK120 rdstr 1960 Morgan +4 1953 MGTD
From: Bob Whiles 71561.2752@compuserve.com
Date: 28 Jun 96 21:39:37 EDT
Subject: Reupholstering XJ6
Greetings Adam,
You wrote,
Fellow Jag-lovers
I am thinking that my Series III XJ could
do with having the seats recovered and the carpets
replaced. I have no problem with doing the
carpeting job, however some questions about the seats. Has
anyone done this particular job and what tools are
required (esp any that the usual tool box won’t have)? Am
I being an idiot to attempt to do this job myself?- I don’t
mind taking time but I do want it to look and feel correct
when it’s done. Lastly,any recommendations as to vendors
(in USA)? BAS? Bassetts? etc. Much thanks
Best
regards,
A.J. Owens
I was told by a shop owner one time “the job is always easier when you don’t
know what you are doing.” My wife and I own a trim shop. The basic tools for
auto upholstery are
- Set of Hog Ring Pliers $8-$15US
- Hog Rings
This is assuming that you are buying the covers pre-made. I have not done our
Jag yet, but sometimes a seat cover needs a little hand stiching.
I hope this helps,
Bob Whiles, Redlands CA USA 71561.2752@compuserve.com
86 Jaguar XJ6 S3
Dreaming for an E Type (I want one of each)
- → "So what is there about a picture of a pretty girl wearing
- → a Bikini, High Heals and standing next to a beautiful
- → car that doesn’t make sense?"
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #181