jag-lovers-digest Monday, 1 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 182
XJ40 “normal” ranges
multiple messages
Re: Multiple Message Copies
Re: multiple messages
XJ6 “run on” problem
XJ6 Streering column
Re: prelubrication recommendation
Re: why a Jaguar?
oil capacity 3.4L
Jag Technicians In Northern CA
Electronic ignition probs
Re: XJ6 Streering column
Re: why a Jaguar?
Re: Multiple Message Copies
E-Type cooling fan
meeting a member
Re: why a Jaguar?
XJ6 S1 Air filter
'88 XJ-S V12 front wheelbearings - Quinton Hazell rebuild kit
Re: Air Comnpressor question
repeat
Jag event
XJ6 SI - Hi or Low Compression?----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 1996 20:17:29 -0500
Subject: XJ40 “normal” ranges
Being relatively new to jag world, I found myself wondering what the
‘normal’ ranges are for the XJ40 on the three primary gauges.
My battery runs at about 13 to 13.5, my oil pressure varies from three to 8
(idle to running at posted speed), and my temperature was running at 80 F in
the winter (Minnesota), but now is running at 85 to 90 F.
Just a matter of curiosity as to what other XJ40 owners are seeing in their
cars.
Scott, '88 XJ40, with still no a/c, Phillips
PS I have no idea what caused the XJS to sieze, but I’m going to spend my
weekend with a six pack anyway! I just wish I could get those giant Fosters
cans like you folks down under can! Cheers!
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 09:27:55 -0500
Subject: multiple messages
I almost hate to send this, but whats happened?
I’m getting multiple messages, tens of rejected, full mailboxes messages?
THis AM I got up to 151 messages, all but five duplicates!
Scott Phillips
'88 XJ40
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 10:55:58 -0400
Subject: Re: Multiple Message Copies
This is getting sick! Is the server doing this -and is this message now
contributing to the problem? I am up to 275 messages!
Mark
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 11:20:33 -0400
Subject: Re: multiple messages
Me too. Something is drastically wrong here. I am getting copies of
messages that I read and deleted yesterday. Somebody fix something.
Something is full. Is jag-lovers@sn.no powered by Lucas electronics?
Dave the Free man
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 09:59:39 -0500
Subject: XJ6 “run on” problem
Yes, the ignition timing CAN and often DOES cause this problem. What
happens is the timing is off far enough to cause the top of the cylinder to
get too hot. This causes hot spots in the cylinder that act like spark
plugs after the ignition is turned off.
To kill the engine on a carb model you floorboard the throttle and the lean
mixture (throttle butterfly wide open) will kill it. In a fuel injected
model, I don’t know.
Jim
“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 09:59:44 -0500
Subject: XJ6 Streering column
Does anyone know where the problem exists in the XJ6 when the horn gets
stuck on somewhere inside the steering column?
Is is the “lower 15"”? I noticed that SICP has that part on sale for $99
and if that is where it is it would be worth the $99 plus my own labor to
replace it.
Jim
“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 09:59:41 -0500
Subject: Re: prelubrication recommendation
Analogy : are you aware of the “old fashioned” and sensible foot plunger
actived wind screen washers that negates use of electric motor?? (a squirt
gun) I wonder if this system could be used with modifications as a preluber.
Yes and no. Maybe. The 1948 daimler had a system where the heat of the
exhaust caused the expansion of a bellows (once each time the engine warmed
up) which pumped oil to all the chassis lubrication points. Another car I
had, I think it was a Bentley had a lever that you pushed to lube the
chassis every time you started the car,…if you remembered. The Bently
system could be modified to lube the crank I suppose.
Jim
“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil
From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 14:18:50 -0400
Subject: Re: why a Jaguar?
Jan Wikstroem writes:
When bragging about one’s own marque, a certain amount of
exaggeration will be permitted. Also, of course, what constitutes a
classic is very much a matter of opinion, but when addressing
ignorami (people who can even contemplate a Lexus over any Jag being
automatically thus classified) there is no need to go into detail.
Doesn’t a Classic have to be pre-WWII? If a car was built after the war, it
can’t be a Classic, but at most a “Milestone” car. BTW, Jaguar’s prewar cars
form a “full classic marque” (even the marginal ones), as do Alfa Romeo,
Duesenberg, Hispano Suiza & Mercedes (among others). I’m not sure about BMW,
but I’m sure that the 328 IS a Classic. The E Type IS rated as a Milestone
car. The 240Z SHOULD be a Milestone if it isn’t. It marked the first really
successful Japanese sports touring car and, though it did appear to be
influenced by the E Type, was clearly not an E Type clone. A Lexus might be
nice to some, but it doesn’t represent any sort of Milestone that I can see
other perhaps as “the first badge-engineered Toyota.”
-Steve A.
'67 E Type Coupe
'76 XJ6C
'91 XJ40
From: “L. Haithcock” haithco@bgsm.edu
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 15:11:11 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: oil capacity 3.4L
Can anyone tell me the oil pan capacity of a 3.4L XK engine (including
filter). The sources I have found disagree. I have seen both 18 and 15
pints. I think this is 9 or 7 1/2 quarts.
Thanks
L J Haithcock
S830794DN
XK-150S OTS
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 12:31:11 -0700
Subject: Jag Technicians In Northern CA
If there are any Jag techs lurking on this list that live in the San
Francisco bay area, please get ahold of me. I have a line on possible
employment for someone with late model experience.
========================================================
Michael P. Neal Master Jaguar Technician
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 14:27:07 +0700
Subject: Electronic ignition probs
Is it possible to use the (much less expensive) GM ignition amplifier
rather than the Jag module? How about the distributor pickup? Am I
begging for trouble, or staring at a huge cost savings?
G. W. Price & Company, Ltd
Probabilistic Record Linkage Services
Consultants in research, information management
and program evaluation
gprice@rt66.com
***Free answers to emailed PC questions***
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 12:32:59 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ6 Streering column
Jim,
Usually the problem is in the upper part of the column. The rod
that goes down the center of the shaft shorts out at it’s base.
James A. Isbell wrote:
Does anyone know where the problem exists in the XJ6 when the horn gets
stuck on somewhere inside the steering column?Is is the “lower 15"”? I noticed that SICP has that part on sale for $99
and if that is where it is it would be worth the $99 plus my own labor to
replace it.Jim“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil
========================================================
Michael P. Neal Master Jaguar Technician
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 17:50:35 +0100
Subject: Re: why a Jaguar?
Steve A. wrote (In part)
Doesn’t a Classic have to be pre-WWII? If a car was built after the war, it
can’t be a Classic, but at most a “Milestone” car.
To quote that famous jag owner, Roget, a classic is, among other
definitions;
excellent, fine, exemplary, worth imitating
above par, preferable, better, very good, first-rate,
A-1, superexcellent, A plus, prime, quality, good quality,
fine, superfine, most desirable, in a class by itself or oneself!!
(he didn’t mention “must leak oil:)”
Which my E certainly is!
Best,
Charles Daly,
'62 classic E-Type
From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu
Date: Sat, 29 Jun 1996 18:13:33 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Multiple Message Copies
I am getting 5 or more copies of messages too.
Thomas
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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 1 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 183
Re: Japanese classic cars
Re: V12 auxiliary air valve purpose and adjustment
RE: meeting a member
XJS V12
XJ seat parts
XJ 40 Won’t Run
Re: Japanese classic cars - MGB copy - NOT!
XJ6 83 Wheels - Want to buy upgrade
Technolgy
Re: XJ seat parts
XK 120 - hard to start
Starter problems
Re: XJ 40 Won’t Run
85 XJ6 instruments
Jaguar Suppliers (posted monthly)
From: Bill Detelich bdetelic@nando.net
Date: Sat, 22 Jun 1996 05:53:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Japanese classic cars
I believe the car in the James Bond movie was a Mazda Cosmo
Bill D.
61 Mk2
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 1 Jul 96 12:09:41
Subject: Re: V12 auxiliary air valve purpose and adjustment
:
The aux. air valve does indeed have the two purposes you surmise, Tom. It’s
supposed to help cold idle by upping the revs and does provide an adjusting
screw for warm idle speed. The dopey thing tends to jam open as the slider
valve gets coated with glop; I got sick of replacing them and simply blocked
the cold idle bypass hole (letting it suck in a small piece of rag - on a
string in case it didn’t work out) on the second car. I need to help the
throttle with a gentle foot for the first 5 seconds on a cold morning,
otherwise I don’t miss the cold idle assist one bit. Of course, it never gets
much below freezing where I live…
As for your idle screw position, I’m sorry, but you do have a vacuum leak
somewhere; the screw should normally be at least a couple of turns out from the
bottom. There are lots of possibilities; I found manifold leaks on my XJC by
listening to a length of fuel hose dangled around the flanges. You can check
the overrun valves after taking off the air filter elements: put your thumb
over the intake hole near the front end and blip the throttle - there should be
a bit of suction only for a second or two as the throttle slams shut. This is,
of course, assuming that your model still has them. Otherwise, yes, there are
indeed lots of vacuum hoses and nozzles to check, but the aforementioned trick
with the bit of fuel hose speeds the search.
I assume both your throttles are set to the regulation .05mm (.002") feeler
gauge clearance when resting on their stops?
Good luck,
-
- Jan
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 1996 19:28:25 -0500
Subject: RE: meeting a member
for him…Anyone who has reservation about meeting anyone on the
list…rest easy…normal people here…I’ve met two, Brain and Dick
White. What delightful people.
I want to second that motion.
I went to DC back in October and met several very fine people from the Jag
list. I also belong to a writers list and I met over 8 of them along the
way and at a party given in my honor in DC. (No, I didnt do anything
important, it was just a party because I had traveled there and writers need
very little encouragement to gather in an Irish pub and tell stories).
I also tried to get in touch with people from the Bricklin club I belong to
and was told that they would not give out the address list because people
were afraid that if someone knew they owned a Bricklin that they would come
in the night and steel them. I carefuly explained to them that almost any
Jaguar is worth more than the paultry 12 to $14,000 that a very nice
Bricklin will bring and yet Jag owners were less worried and friendlier. It
didnt get me the mailing list though so I satisfied myself with Jag owners
and writers from the intertnet.
In the last week of September I will be meeting with a couple from New
Zealand who will be touring the US then. I met them on the Lotus list.
In the near future… I will be traveling north from Texas to Michigan in
the first two weeks in September to scope out the possibilitys of purchasing
a summer home there and would be most happy to meet with anyone along that
route, or in Michigan who would communicate with me privately off the list
preferably to keep the bandwidth down.
Jim
“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil
From: BMack7316@aol.com
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 1996 23:54:29 -0400
Subject: XJS V12
Well, the fresh engine is finally in, but nothing connected yet – I expect
spark Wednesday night.
Still got the old motor, but I’m not sure what to do with it. It needs a
timing chain, oil pump, left head and all seals. Any suggestions? I’d rather
not give it away if it can be sold.
Brad Mack
85 SIII [JAGNRND]
85 XJS (it’s a guy thing)
92 JUV (Japanese Utility Vehicle)
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 1 Jul 96 16:45:24
Subject: XJ seat parts
My local Jag parts pusher informs me that the black rubber sheet that forms the
base of an XJ front seat (S1 and S2, anyway) is - wait for it - unavailable.
Guess what’s happened to mine, under its daily load of 105 bouncing kg (233
lbs)…
Does anyone know where I might secure a couple, or some substitute? Especially,
of course, a substitute that is (gasp, shudder) better!
-
- Jan
From: Jag140@aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 02:41:43 -0400
Subject: XJ 40 Won’t Run
I have a 1991 XJ VDP (36K miles) which is really giving me fits. One day, It
stumbled briefly while driving. The next day, it drove fine for 4-5miles them
began to miss and would barely run above an idle. Towed it home, it starts
fine, but won’t take any throttle… Spits back and gradually falters and
dies… It’s given me several different error messages… It behaves as if
the fuel pressure rail is pressurized for starting, but then the pressure
falls and the engine just dies… I’m reluctant to use the dealer, and also
reluctant to have anyone try repairs on a trial and error basis…
Any thoughts as to the likely source of my problem??
Thanks for your help!
Michael Riley MD
From: sugimoto@sums.shiga-med.ac.jp (Yoshihisa SUGIMOTO)
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 18:03:22 +0900
Subject: Re: Japanese classic cars - MGB copy - NOT!
At 1:41 PM 96.6.28 -0400, Mark McChesney wrote:
I have a friend here in Michigan that has a near perfect Honda S800 - neat
car!
Isn’t it chain drive?
That’s great! Older Honda S800 and all S600 have a rear trailing arm
independent suspension with chain drive. Newer S800 have a simple rigid
rear axle. Great Soichiro Honda sticked to the chain drive that resembled
to bike.
For the performance in Gymkhana competition rigid-axled car is faster than
those with chain drive. But I prefer chain-drived cars personally.
Yoshihisa Sugimoto, M.D., Ph. D.
Department of Medicine I // Medical Information Center
Shiga University of Medical Science
From: chatmans@ext.missouri.edu
Date: Sun, 30 Jun 96 10:18:58 cdt
Subject: XJ6 83 Wheels - Want to buy upgrade
Well, I guess that just about says it all. I have the original
equipment painted mag and would like something else. Please send
description and price to my personal address
(chatmans@ext.missouri.edu). Thanks. Steve Chatman, Columbia, MO, USA.
From: henning@fp.com (Eric Henning)
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 10:05:44 -0400
Subject: Technolgy
Bob,
Clean your f&*^ing battery terminals already. How many times do we have to
tell you. What’s the big interest in Panthers all of a sudden, 50 people
must have asked about them. “Improved gas”, I don’t no anything about
improved gas!!!, leave me alone I’ve got 247 messages to read!!!
AHHHHHHHH!!! HAL let me in, open the door HAL!!!
Ohhh we’ve lost control! somebody help us, please…
I am now insane.
eric
From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 08:23:47 MDT
Subject: Re: XJ seat parts
Jan wrote:
My local Jag parts pusher informs me that the black rubber sheet that forms the
base of an XJ front seat (S1 and S2, anyway) is - wait for it - unavailable.
Does anyone know where I might secure a couple, or some substitute? Especially,
of course, a substitute that is (gasp, shudder) better!
I ran into a similar problem on another brit car. I replaced the
rubber diaphram with a hand made cavas replacement. The canvas was
then suspended vis-a-vis the seat frame by stiff springs to allow the
canvas replacement to strain relieve. I don’t know if its better
than the rubber but it does work as I have used mine for over 10
years.
Kind regards,
Jim Cantrell
From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@CompuServe.COM
Date: 01 Jul 96 10:26:12 EDT
Subject: XK 120 - hard to start
- ---------- Forwarded Message ----------
From: Larry Hodson, INTERNET:lwh3419@en.com
TO: John Elmgreen, 100353,1733
DATE: 30-6-96 11:00 PM
RE: Re: XK group
Sender: lwh3419@en.com
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Date: Sun, 30 Jun 1996 23:01:17 -0400 (EDT)
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To: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@CompuServe.COM
From: Larry Hodson lwh3419@en.com
Subject: Re: XK group
At 08:13 AM 5/28/96 EDT, you wrote:
Dear Larry & Denise, I saw from the WWW site that you are the owners of an
XK120. If you want to join our little group of XK owners who swap email re the
cars, let me know. Regards, John Elmgreen XK120, XK150Dear John
I thought you or one in your group could help me on this problem.
I’ve owned my '54 120 for about 14 years. The whole time I’ve had
it I’ve always had trouble starting it after it has set for more than
3 or 4 days. I’ve tuned it by the book and have others check it out
but to no avail. It seems that if I release the starter button at just
the right time( top of the piston stroke) it’ll catch and run. Other-
wise it’s a slow grind untill the battery runs down and I get the
jumper cables out. It seems as if all the battery amps are going to
the starter motor and not to the plugs.
I’ve tried a new coil but that didn’t help. The batteries are good.
I thought I try another set of plug wires. Perhaps Packard 440 solid
copper wires although I heard they can cause radio and TV inter-
ferance. My present wires are the everyday ones with graphide or
whatever centers. I’ve got the stock distributor and point setup
in use but I was wondering if I should put in an electronic one.
My buddy Joe Burke up near Boston has a '53 120 Coupe and he was
able to start his car in below zero weather when he lived in Clev-
land. Other people tell me not to install it because if it fails
then you are stuck for sure out in the middle of nowhere, wheras
if your points screw up just reset them and you are back on the
road. I would prefer to cure this without installing electronic
ignition if possible.
If anyone has any ideas please drop me a line.
Larry Hodson
lwh3419@en.com
From: David Covert davecove@microsoft.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 08:10:09 -0700
Subject: Starter problems
Got real close to starting the V12 this past weekend. All I needed was
to pre-lube, install plugs, plug wires, and intake manifolds. I would’a
gotten there too if I hadn’t run into a bit of a problem with the
prelube step.
When I first went to pre-lube, the starter made that rapid ticking sound
that starters make when they are attached to a dead battery. So I set a
charger on it, and when to clean up for lunch. When I came out to go to
lunch, I hit the ignition and the engine turned a couple of times
weakly. Battery for sure I decided…
On the way back from lunch, I stopped and bought a 700cca battery. I installed it, hit the ignition again. and heard the same ticking sound. ‘Great’, I thought, ‘they come from the store discharged.’ I measured the no-load voltage, and it read 12.75 volts. Didn’t seem too low… So I put the charger on it and left it for several hours. Tried again and still got the ticking (and buzzing and honking). I hooked both batteries up and tried. Same result… I measured the resistance across the battery leads with the switch off and gor 8ohms. Thinking I had a shoe=rt I spent 30 minutes or so tracking it down. It finally dawned on me that the 8ohms was the clock. Doah! Ideas? Dave Covert …Particle Man, Particle Man, doin’ the things a particle can… They Might Be Giants From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com Date: Mon, 01 Jul 1996 07:51:48 -0700 Subject: Re: XJ 40 Won’t Run Standard Disclaimer(If you want your car running properly in as short a time as possible find a good late model jag specialist). It would be nice to know what error messages your are getting. It does sound like a bad crank position sensor or water in the fuel(fuel cap on improperly). Jag140@aol.com wrote:
I have a 1991 XJ VDP (36K miles) which is really giving me fits. One day, It
stumbled briefly while driving. The next day, it drove fine for 4-5miles them
began to miss and would barely run above an idle. Towed it home, it starts
fine, but won’t take any throttle… Spits back and gradually falters and
dies… It’s given me several different error messages… It behaves as if
the fuel pressure rail is pressurized for starting, but then the pressure
falls and the engine just dies… I’m reluctant to use the dealer, and also
reluctant to have anyone try repairs on a trial and error basis…Any thoughts as to the likely source of my problem??
Thanks for your help!
Michael Riley MD
========================================================
Michael P. Neal Master Jaguar Technician
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
From: james Williams williams@ixl.com
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 1996 11:48:29 -0400
Subject: 85 XJ6 instruments
I just bought an 85 XJ6 and I’m confused. I thought all 85’s had the
trip computer. Mine does not, just a nice analog clock in that
location.
My owner’s manual (the one in the glove box any way) also shows a
different light switch than on the actual car. Mine seems to have the
European fog light options which I understand are illegal in the US.
The real problem is that the wood trim is broken around the clock.
I say wood but this stuff is not more than 0.1 inches thick and looks
like plastic.
Any help from someone who knows why my model is different and where I
can get the new wood trim?
Thanks
Jim Williams
From: jjoy@risc.sps.mot.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 09:00:02 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Jaguar Suppliers (posted monthly)
removed Larry Bowling and John Rhodes since the phone numbers are no
longer valid
added H.D. Rogers & Sons and Asom Electric
modified British Auto USA/Interiors entries – combined since the same
shop
Suppliers, North America (mostly).
(Corrections, etc, to: jjoy@risc.sps.mot.com)
The majority of this list has come from Rob Reilly reilly@admail.fnal.gov
SUPPLIERS OF JAGUAR PARTS AND SERVICES Rev. 3-27-95
A D Motor Rebuilding, NY 1-516-395-5101
Lucas, Smith’s motors rebuilt
Al Hogan’s Autojumble Mansfield, Ohio 1-419-524-1088
NOS parts supplier
Specializes in buying out old dealer stock. Owner (Al) is knowledgeable
about british car parts.
- -Steve DuChene s0017210@cc.ysu.edu
Dick Ames, 608 Ft. Williams Pkwy, Alexandria, VA 22304 1-703-370-3097
stainless exhaust systems
Best price on stainless steel exhaust systems. I’ve misplaced the
address but can probably look it up if pressed.
- -PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)
Ancient Car Parts, 64 N Main, Lyndonville, NY 14098 1-716-765-2894
rust repair panels for XJ
Apple Hydraulics, 715 Route 25A, Miller Place, NY 11764 1-800-882-7753
rebuilds Armstrong, Girling shocks, SU carbs 1-516-744-9627
Asom Electric, 1204 McClellan Dr., Los Angeles, CA 90025 1-310-820-3720
email: asomelect@aol.com 1-800-424-2766
Electrical rebuilding shop that deals mostly in Lucas and Bosch and
rebuild starters, alternators, generators, fuel pumps, voltage regulators,
wiper and window motors. They have a large supply of Lucas parts,
including discontinued items. In business for 36 years, have daily UPS,
and accept credit cards.
Atlantic Enterprises, Route 4, Box 394-B, Loris, SC 29569 1-803-756-7565
steering racks, seal kits, polyurethane rack mounts
Auto Interiors of Europe, 1790 E McFadden, Unit 107 1-800-533-2886
interiors Santa Ana, CA 92705
(not sure which addr. is correct)
3023 S. Orange Ave.
Santa Ana, CA 92707
(714) 751-9046
Nice stuff if I remember correctly. Not cheap but nothing for these
beasts is.
-
- s912!rick@bnf.com (Rick Ezneker)
Kent Bain, 1785 Barnum Ave, Stratford, CT 06497 1-203-377-6745
custom interiors, seat rebuilding and repadding
G.W.Bartlett, Muncie, Ind. 1-800-338-8034
interior and trim parts
Sells original Jaguar Interior kits and components. All to exact Jaguar
specifications. As per original spec. Quite costly but isn’t quality
always a bit more? (eg. Interior kit for Jag 3.8s is about $4200, retail.)
-
- zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay)
Basset’s, Wyoming, R.I. 1-401-539-3010
restoration parts
Borla Industries, Oxnard, Calif. 1-805-983-7300
stainless exhaust
British Auto Center, 2938 SW Avalon Way, Seattle, WA 98126 206-935-0873
Lots of late model stuff, new and used. Very knowledgeable. Can
sometimes be grumpy. – Greg Meboe (meboe@wsunix.wsu.edu)
British Auto USA, 92 Londonderry Trnpk, 1-603-622-1050
British Auto USA Interiors Manchester, NH 03104 1-800-4-JAGPTS
interior and trim parts 1-800-452-4787
Exc. inventory of interiors and body parts. Limited inventory of
mechanical parts but I always check them out because they’re cheaper!
(I avoid Bartlets for Jag interiors)
- -PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)
British Car Parts, CA 1-818-788-7636
new and used parts
British Marque Auto PO Box 344, Bainbridge, PA 17502 1-717-426-2675
interiors
British Motor Service, 521 W. Katella, Orange, CA 92667 1-714-997-3800
Moss distributor, used XK parts
British Parts Northwest, 4105 SE Lafayette Hwy, 1-503-864-2001
new parts for late models, no sheet metal Dayton, OR 97114
British Restoration Parts, Kansas City, Mo. 1-800-821-3767
new restoration parts
British Spares, 46 Florence, Springfield, MA 01105 1-413-736-0463
fabricates panels for XK, Marks, E
British Vintages, 645-D Tank Farm Rd, 1-800-350-JAGS
San Luis Obispo, CA 93401 1-805-541-5986
Have their catalog but so far never used them.
- -PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)
British Wire Wheel, 1650 Mansfield St, 1-408-479-4495
Santa Cruz, CA 95062
Dayton and Dunlop wire wheels, tires
THE place to go for correct reconditioning of your JagWires. Also to
buy THE correct tires.
- -PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)
Bob Brosen, 7804 Billington Court, Oxen Hill, MD 20744 1-301-248-6327
new repro parts for pre-war, Mark IV, V
Classic Parts & Panels, Ltd. 0296 658938
Fleet Marston Farm, Bicester Rd., Nr Waddesdon
Aylesbury, Bucks, UK HD 18 ODZ XK panels
Classic Restoration Parts, Bellflower, Ca. 1-213-804-2756
XK grilles, gas tanks
Classic Tube 1-716-759-1800
A Division of Classic & Performance Specialists
80 Rotech Drive
Lancaster, NY 14086 USA
They supply steel and stainless steel pre-bent brake and fuel lines for
various makes of cars. I got half the brake lines and clutch lines
from them in stainless, and being the prudish restoration junkie I am,
I was concerned that the reproduction in stainless would not be very
“original”. However, I’m happy to say the final product is almost
identical to the original steel lines, most judges will not notice the
difference. – Mark Roberts (markdr@bnr.ca)
Concourse West, 644 Terminal Way, Costa Mesa CA 92627 714-642-9807
fax 714-645-8388
Have rebuilt diffs.
- -PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)
Cordell R. Newby, 1410 N. Aurora, East Wenatchee, WA 98801 509-884-6823
Specializes in Mark V parts. New and used.
-
- s912!rick@bnf.com (Rick Ezneker)
Coshman Ent, PO Box 2685-J, Orcutt, CA 93455 1-805-937-7456
Whitworth tools, taps & dies, gauges, fasteners
Coventry Engineering, 9500 SW Martha St, Tigard, OR 97224 1-503-620-9482
wiring harnesses
Coventry S Ltd, 6406 85th Place, New Carrolton, MD 20784 1-800-537-4146
stainless exhaust systems
Joe Curto, 230-22 58th Ave. Bayside, NY 11364 1-718-465-4829
S.U. parts
Wes Czech, HCR 9550, Lucerne Valley, CA 92356 1-619-248-9603
XK parts
Stanley Daniel, 124 Parkview Rd. Cheltenham, PA 19012 1-215-782-1248
used Mark 7-9 parts from 30 cars, call after 9PM EST
Doctor Jaguar, 644 W 17th St, Costa Mesa, CA 92627 1-714-646-2816
parts, engines, trans, susp. parts
East Coast Jag Parts DE 1-302-731-7200
EJAG NEWS, Box J, Carlisle, Mass 01741 magazine, a few accessories
Engel Imports, Kalamazoo, Mich. 1-800-253-4080
new car dealer, will UPS, cheaper than other dealers
European Auto Specialists, 1-313-355-2730
OEM parts for late models
John Farrel, 4315 Murray St., Flushing, NY 11355 1-718-762-9071
NOS XK parts
Foreign Car Center, 1610 S Main, Milpitas, CA 95035 1-408-262-0325
used parts recycler
Grand Turisimo Jaguar, Eastlake, Ohio 1-800-852-4827, 1-216-951-2000
engine rebuilder, parts
Specializing in high performance parts and services. They list a
‘level 5’ Jaguar V12 with all of the whistles and bells like porting,
balancing, etc. with 6, count them, 6 two bbl Weber carbs mounted
vertically across the top of the V12! This engine sells for about
$13,500. - zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay)
Gunson Ltd., Pudding Mill Lane, London E15 2PJ
UK source for ColourTune
Tony Handler’s Foreign Parts Connection 1-213-473-7773
2028 Cotner Ave, Westwood, CA 90025
H.D. Rogers & Sons 1-318-742-3651
3418 Barksdale Blvd. fax: 1-318-742-5044
Bossier City, LA 71112
email: hdr64@aol.com (Hal Rogers)
Family-owned business supplying used, NOS, discontinued parts as well as
enhancements for newer cars. For example, they offer aftermarket a/c
hoses for XJ series and a less expensive amplifier. They try to give
special rates to internet users. They also have contracts worldwide
and will try to locate hard to find items, and offer special prices for
prepaid orders from overseas.
Harry CA 1-408-262-0235
used parts
H.P. Co., 1079 Colonial Club Dr, Harahan, LA 70123 1-504-737-4691
burled walnut dashboards
I-35 Imports Oklahoma 1-405-799-2886
used parts, 80 and older
Intermarque Auto Parts Houston 1-800-666-8700
parts and sheet metal
International Spare Parts 1-800-243-0073
J.K.Restorations, 12 Jackson, Oswego, IL 1-708-554-2120
complete restorations, specialist for XK and E, some used parts
Jag Atlanta, 3437 Sexton Woods Dr, Chamblee, GA 30341 1-800-533-8973
new, used parts for E and XJ 1-404-455-0175
Jaggist (Alan Trickel) 1065 Hillview, Ashland, OR 97520 1-503-535-8486
used XK parts
Jaguar Cars Inc, Public Relations, Mahwah NJ 1-201-818-9770
For a fee will authenticate your VIDNs.
- -PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)
Jaguar Denver 1-800-426-4515
Lucas, Girling, Jag parts
Jaguar Heaven, 1433 Tillie Lewis Dr, Stockton, CA 95206-1130
info: 1-209-942-4524, orders: 1-800-969-4524, FAX: 1-209-942-3670
used parts recycler, all models
Jaguar Interiors of England, PO Box 47, Muncie, IN 47308 1-317-289-9901
carpeting and upholstery
Jaguar Motor Works, 3701 Longview Dr, Atlanta, GA 30341 1-800-331-2193
used XJ parts recycler, rebuilt parts Local 404-451-3839
FAX-404-451-7561
Jaguar of North America, Leonia, NJ 1-201-592-5200
factory American distributor
Jaguar South Greenville, SC 1-803-244-1555, 1-803-292-3934
used parts recycler
Jaguar parts SC 1-803-754-5363
Jaguar Warehouse, 6010 Mardale Lane, Burke, VA 22015 1-703-451-4071
NOS parts
Jaguar Warehouse, 5727 Walcott Ave, Fairfax, VA 22030 1-703-968-3983
XK parts
J C Whitney, Chicago, IL 312-431-6102
Also known as Warshawsky/Whitney. Sells car parts cheap for most cars
including LBCs. Massive buying power. Brainless order-takers. You
can call in the middle of the night for good long-distance rates. They
will not tell you brand names. All the swaybars are ADDCO. See also
ADDCO and Werace. - ?
J.C. Whitney offers a few items that are of interest. Things like generic
weatherstrip by the foot, etc. The do offer after market A/C units and
high output quartz halogen 7 inch headlights (110 watts!!!). The ad
carries the label ‘Not legal for street use.’ They look really cool.
-
- zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay)
John’s Cars, 800 Jaguar Lane, Dallas, TX 75226 1-214-426-4100
fax: 1-214-426-3116
V-8 conversions, other repro parts, claims improvements over stock
Just Jags, 407 Industrial Dr, Carmel, IN 46032 1-317-844-8823
new, used parts, service, restorations
Just Jags, 8720 Big Bend at Elm, St.Louis, MO 63119 1-314-968-2450
service, parts, restoration shop
Keller Associates, PO Box 2833, Saratoga, CA 95070 1-408-370-3705
burl walnut dashboards
Lister of North Am, 1912 Granvill Av, Muncie, IN 47308 1-800-338-8034
high performance accessories
Lovello, Mark SC 1-803-244-1555
used parts
Moss Motors, PO Box MG, 7200 Hollister Av, Goleta, CA 93116 800-235-6954
new and repro parts for XK’s
Moss Motors, Santa Barbara, California 1-805-963-0741
new car dealer
Cordell Newby, 1625 N Western, East Wenatchee, WA 98801 1-509-662-7748
new, used, repro parts for pre-war, Mark IV, V
added: Jul. 29, 1994
Nisonger Instrument Sales & Service 1-914-381-1952
570 Mamaroneck Ave. fax: 1-914-381-1953
Mamaroneck, NY 10543
Repairs capillary based guages.
“I had them repair my water temp gauge 2 months ago. Charge was $100 including
shipping, turnaround time was 2 weeks, and they take plastic.” Rob Reilly
Northwest Modern Classics, 121 Duryea, Raymond, WA 98577
interiors, carpets, upholstery, tops 1-800-854-1751,1-206-942-5532
Northwest Transmission Parts, Ohio 1-513-442-2811 or 1-800-327-1955
auto trans rebuilding kits, torque convertors
Peninsula Imports, 3749 Harlem Rd, Buffalo, NY 14215 1-800-999-1209
XJ, E body and rust repair panels 1-716-833-3000
Fred Petroske, RR1, Box 112, Chaumont, NY 13622 1-315-649-2861
used parts recycler, all models
Paul K. Phillips 1-305-846-7976
1124 N. W. 134 Ave. fax: 1-305-846-9450
Sunrise, FL 33323
Specializes in the XJ Coupe market and runs an XJC register.
“I have dealt with him once on an exhaust system (via a referral from
SICP) and got good service. He does require cash C.O.D. (no credit cards)
which is a bit of a bother.” - gladish@suite.com (Brian Gladish)
Phil’s, Inc. Ashland Ave, Evanston, IL 1-708-869-2434
PII Distributing, PO Box 27358, Houston, TX 77227-7358 1-800-231-5836
genuine Jaguar parts, sheet metal 1-713-975-6272
Chuck Pilate, 24996 W Magdalena Dr, Mt Clemens, MI 48045
XK, E parts 1-313-791-0429
Rich’s Import Auto Parts & Serv, 730 N Glebe Rd, Arlington, VA 22203
parts for E, XJ and 62 on sedans 1-800-336-6603, 1-703-522-0440
Rhino Auto Parts, Hanover, MN 1-612-498-8711
used and NOS parts 50’s to 70’s
Rhode Island Wiring Service, Box 3737H, Peace Dale, RI 02883
wiring harnesses 1-401-789-1955
Martin Robey Panels, Pool Rd, Camp Hill 011-44-203-386-903
Industrial Estate, Nuneaton, Warks CV10 9AE England
Rodney, 2035 Cornell St, Sarasota, FL 33577 1-813-955-5960
used parts recycler
SCJ, 3 Elizabeth Ave, Burlington, MA 01803
NOS parts, pre-war to 61
Samplex, 30 Parkview Dr, Succasunna, NJ 07876 201-584-9370
US source for ColourTune
Special Interest Car Parts, 1340 Hartford Ave, Johnston, RI 02919
voice: 1-800-556-7496, 1-800-851-5600, 1-401-831-8850
fax: 1-800-672-SICP(1-800-672-7427), 1-401-831-7760
We have parts for your Jaguar, MG, Healey, TR. Good prices. Superb
catalog. Parts from XK120 through XJ40 including e-types. Will often
meet or beat prices from competitors.
S&S Specialties, 108 Sation St, Cumming, IA 50061 1-515-981-9148
NOS, rebuilt and used parts for XK, Mk and E, sheet metal parts
Stainless Steel Muffler Corp, 3032 Genesee St, Buffalo, NY 14225
stainless exhaust systems 1-716-893-2116
Terry’s Jaguar Parts, 117 E Smith St, Benton, IL 62812 1-800-851-9438
new and used parts for later models 1-618-439-4444
Bill Tracy, Sarasota, Florida 1-813-924-9523
new and repro parts for XK’s
Trans Ocean, Dept PDH, 390 Olive Tree Lane, Sierra Madre, CA 91024
Lucas parts jobber, '30 to '76 British cars
Welsh Jaguar Enterprises, Steubenville, Ohio 1-800-875-5247
new and repro parts for XK’s and newer 1-614-282-8649
fax: 1-614-282-1913
Catalogue available. (free)
The best prices for Jaguar parts that I have found.
-
- zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay)
Exc. inventory of parts, new and used. Can offer helpful technical advice.
- -PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)
Ed West, 1941H Jan Marie Place, Tustin, CA 92680 1-714-832-2688
new, used, repro parts for earlier Jags
Ed west has lots of intresting stuff at very resonable prices and lots
of advice. – m_skogs@ix.netcom.com (Matthew Skosberg)
White Post Restorations, White Post, VA 22663 1-703-837-1140
restorations, brake and clutch cylinders resleeved
XK’s Unlimited, 850 Fiero Lane, San Luis Obispo, CA 93401 1-805-544-7864
new and repro parts for XK’s 1-800-444-JAGS
In CA: 805-544-7864 FAX: 805-544-1664
catalog available. ($6.00, refundable first order)
“Parts & Service for all model Jaguars from 1948 on” XK’s Unlimited is
a good place to send Girling calipers for for piston bore sleeving. -?
XK’s Unlimited is good, but is a bit higher than Welch Jaguar. They
are also committed to “correct” parts. Additionally, you can call them
without a part number. Just be sure that they tell you what is
included in the replacement part. - zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O.
Lindsay)
Good inventory and advice, but pricey. Nice catalogue. Has a
restoration shop sleeving brake cylinders in stainless.
- -PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)
XKSS Interiors, Thousand Oaks, CA 91359 1-800-922-XKSS, 1-805-482-4682
interior and trim parts
Vicarage Jaguar 1-305-444-8759
% Gables Cats fax: 1-305-443-6443
220 Granello Avenue
Coral Gables, FL 33146
vicarage@ix.netcom.com (alt. vicarage@paradise.net)
http://paradise.net/vicarage
Vicarage says: If one is in need of specialized or hard to find parts
we will have them. In addition we do offer the unique Vicarage
upgrades and enhancement products for all post war Jaguars.
Zimmer, Bob 2675 Stoney Brook Rd, Orchard Park, NY 14127 1-716-652-7909
XK parts
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #183
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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 2 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 184
XJ6 s3 ('87) Electrical Problem
Re: '85 XJ-S
RE: E-Type cooling fan
Re: Starter problems
RE: 85 XJ6 instruments
Jag Mechanic Needed
Steering Rack Bushing Replacement Summary - XJ6 3 83
How to send pictures
Re: Panther cars
fog lights
88 V12 5.3 Vacuum feed to Distributor
shows
car club
Wood in Jaguars
Brakes on S-type
car clubs
Re: Starter problems
Re: car clubs
Clubs
Pittsburgh Grand Prix
Re: Wood in Jaguars
RE: Sending Pictures
From: DaveofNJ@aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 12:26:42 -0400
Subject: XJ6 s3 ('87) Electrical Problem
I have a bizarre electrical problem with my '87 XJ6 s3. Recently, I noticed
with the ignition off, the radio and A/C fan motor remain on. All other
controls (windows, computer, etc.) shut off as expected when the ignition is
turned off, but the radio and blower remain powered.
As I was late for a meeting last Friday, I had to leave the beast parked with
the blower still running - the OFF setting on the A/C control had no effect -
it was the same as LOW. At least I could shut off the radio. When I
returned to the parked car three hours later, the blower was still blowing.
It started up OK and I was able to drive it home.
When I got home, I found the fuse for the A/C, Heater motors and removed it.
The radio and blower shut off. When I replaced the fuse, they remained off
and functioned normally for a while (shut off when ignition off, powered with
ignition on), but later resumed their bizarre behavior. Removing and
replacing the fuse once again “reset” the system.
I notice the fuse description is “A/C, Heater Motor via Relay”. Could the
problem be the relay? Seems like it to me, but I can’t find the relay
anywhere (the wiring diagram is no help). Can anyone tell me where to find
the relay for the heater motor? Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
Many thanks,
Dave
87 XJ6 III
daveofnj@aol.com
david_gruber@fmc.com
From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 1996 09:31:38 -0700
Subject: Re: '85 XJ-S
Think British! RHD is the way the cars were originally built so it
stands to reason that the “A” bank is on the right hand side. This is
the cylinder to check the timing from. It is easier to use it’s
companion cylinder 6A. Access it at the distributor, it is much easier
to get to than 1A.
Aaron Burnett wrote:
This may sound like a stupid question but:
Is the driver’s side or passenger side #1 cylinder used for timing (I know I
should be looking for 1A, but all of my spark plug wires have been replaced
and may have been mislabelled).Any assistance is appreciated
Aaron Burnett
From: “Lauren E. Pratt” pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 96 10:47:21 PDT
Subject: RE: E-Type cooling fan
<The Lucas cooling fan on my 65 E-type OTS just got fried and I am
<considering replacing it with a more effective system. The whimpy motor
<and double blade probably don’t pull nearly as much air through as some
<other possible motor/blade combinations. I am concerned about possible
<mounting problems. Any comments would be greatly appreciated on the
<subject.
When I first saw that miserable finger whacking fan on my E-Type,
I knew it had to go. I have designed a holder to mount a GM fan motor
and large 5 blade fan in the same location as the original Jag fan
and motor, and this sucker moves the air. I have also designed a
electronic circuit to take the place of the 10 volt regulator and
control the GM fan. It turns on low speed at 85C and high speed at
95C,turn off is at 5C below turn on. These settings can be changed
to what ever temp desired. I haven’t installed it on the car as yet
(still under restoration) but it works great as a bread board circuit.
Cheers Lauren
30,000 parts for a 65 E-Type FHC
Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 7/1/96
Time: 10:47:21 AM
From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 13:21:44 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Starter problems
I hit the ignition and the engine turned a couple of times
weakly. Battery for sure I decided…
Are you sure you have your ground straps connected?
Thomas E. ALberts
From: “Lauren E. Pratt” pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 96 11:25:45 PDT
Subject: RE: 85 XJ6 instruments
<My owner’s manual (the one in the glove box any way) also shows a
<different light switch than on the actual car. Mine seems to have the
<European fog light options which I understand are illegal in the US.
What is illegal about fog lights? My 65 E-Type also has a fog light
position on the light switch. Is it also illegal?
Cheers Lauren
Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 7/1/96
Time: 11:25:45 AM
From: g.pearson@williams-helde.com (Greg Pearson)
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 10:59:16 -0800
Subject: Jag Mechanic Needed
Hello,
After several weeks of lurking I finally need some advice. I’ve been
searching for the right Jag and have found a beautiful '87 XJ6 that I wish
to buy. Can anyone recommend a good Mechanic in the Seattle area for a
pre-purchase check out? I’ve read about some local “guru” on the JagWeb
page although no name was given- does anyone know who he is?
TIA!
Greg
From: chatmans@ext.missouri.edu
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 96 13:40:31 cdt
Subject: Steering Rack Bushing Replacement Summary - XJ6 3 83
I originally posted the request and thought that others might benefit
from the help I received. I hope that this is considerd to be a
good use of the exchange. With the advice received and a tool from
John's Cars, I did the job in about 1 1/2 hour including coffee
break, clean-up, time to admire my fine work, and short test drive.
In a nutshell, if your car is a few years old, 13 in my case, and if
your steering rack bushings haven't been replaced, they probably
should be and you will experience much improved steering response. I
imagine that an expert can do this job in 10-15 minutes if necessary.
Special thanks to John Himes, Julio Loza, John Napoli, Tim Scott, and
Jan Wikstroem. If I missed anyone, I'm very sorry. Also, XJ6 owners
who have read about Kirby Palm's XJS down-loadable book but haven't
examined it should do so. Many specifics apply and the discussion is
widely applicable. Steering rack bushing upgrade is a case in point.
Anyway, for other novices, I will try to reflect the collective advice
given and my limited experience.
Steering Rack Bushing Replacement
Please note that the following is a report based on my one and only
experience with this task. (Actually, I tried once before to remove
the bushings with a tool I assembled, failed, had to reassemble, and
then ordered the John's Cars tool before I tried again.) I am an
amateur mechanic with novice rank. This is not expert advice and may
be incomplete or flat wrong. Also, the following description relied
on the advice of others and describes one of several possible
solutions. I think that it is the fastest and easiest solution.
Diagnosis: From inside the car, you might notice that you begin to steer
shortly before the car begins to turn, then the car first turns a bit more
than you wanted it to. From under the car, you will likely see gaps
between the bushing sleeves and the mounting bracket that were once filled
by rubber. As I understand the condition, it is a near certainty that an
older Jag needs this work.
Parts: I used the polyurethane bushings sold by John's Cars (about $45). I
assume that they are the same as, or very similar to, others available.
For a description of the design and material problems of the original
parts, please see Kirby Palm's, Experience in a Book (pp. 140-142). I also
recommend the bushing removal tool available from John's Cars (about $35
new purchase or about $17.50 rental). More about this later.
Minimal Required Sequence:
1 - Raise car and support with reliable stands or drive onto ramps.
2 - Note the presence of shim washers then remove 3 retaining bolts
(1/2 inch socket and 1/2 inch closed-end wrench). There are 2 bolts
at the steering column end and one at the other end.
3 - With minor encouragement, the steering rack will drop down a
few inches.
4 - Using a tool designed for the purpose, force the old bushings out.
This is easier said than done and determines which variation in method
is required. It is THE critical task in this project. I used a tool
designed by John's Cars for this purpose and was very pleased with the
result. If you use the John's Cars tool, then you will need 5/8 inch
socket (1/2 inch drive) and 5/8 inch boxed-end wrench. If your
bushings are very tight, you might use a socket or the plunger part of
the tool to create the first movement by holding the plunger against
one end of the sleeve and striking with a hammer. To help locate the
sleeve, one end of the sleeve will likely extend beyond the rack a few
millimeters.
5 - Insert after-market bushings (easy) with end pieces, new bracket, and
washers fitted, then push rack back into original position. Some
advisors noted that this can be a bit difficult because oily grit is
dropping into your eyes as you fiddle with aligning the bushings and
mounting brackets. Mine was fairly easy. With the new bushing bracket
(I don't know what to call this piece but it is a three-sided thin
metal housing that surrounds the two bushings on the steering column
end) in place and aligned with the bushings, push the rack into
position so that you can insert the first bolt into the lower hole.
Then push the bushing at the other end of the rack into position with
new washers and spacers in position. (I was not able to insert the
three additional spacing washers originally used and had to be content
with one). The third, and last, bushing should be easy to align
because the bottom bushing of the column-end pair is in position. A
Phillips screwdriver, or similar tool is handy for alignment.
6 - Attach nuts and tighten. I understand that the rack should be level
and that there may even be a correct height. I don't know. I did
raise the end opposite the steering column until it fitted squarely
in the mounting bracket.
7 - Put the car back on the road and go have fun.
Special note on removing steering rack bushings:
How any part that has been soaking in oil for years under a Jag can be so
hard to remove is beyond me. If you following the above sequence, you will
need a tool to force out the old bushing sleeve that contacts with the
steering rack. The internal parts of the bushing will come with the the
external sleeve. I recommend that you rent or buy the tool designed by
John's Cars. (There may be similar tools available from others.) The tool
is a threaded rod with a fixed head that slides through washer, plunger
piece, cup-like piece, then washer and nut. As you tighten the nut, the
plunger pulls the old bushing into the cup end. You can assemble something
similar using sockets and/or pipe, bolts or threaded rod, washers and nuts.
I first tried a homemade assembly but was unable to dislodge the bushing.
I can report that the John's Cars tool is tough. I applied enough force
to the tool that my 1/2 drive socket wrench skipped a tooth for the first
time. In case you're wondering, I don't work for John's Cars.
From: Alan Akeister 100705.3012@CompuServe.COM
Date: 01 Jul 96 15:05:54 EDT
Subject: How to send pictures
Hi everybody.
I have found a picture of a one-off drop head Daimler X300, which has been
specially built by Jag to celebrate 100 years of Daimler.
Called the “Corsica” it is named after the 1931 Daimler drophead coupe, it is
based upon the Daimler saloon platform, which the wheelbase has been cut by
6inches to strengthen bodyshell rigidity.
Any one know how I can upload it to the list?
Alan Akeister
From: Alan Akeister 100705.3012@CompuServe.COM
Date: 01 Jul 96 15:05:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Panther cars
Michael,
Panther Sports cars. I looked at a couple in Ryton at Tony Gilbert Cars. Very
nice for what they are.
You can have either a Ford V62.9 Ltr from the Scorpio or a 1600cc XR engine
fitted.
Panther Cars went bust some years back. They then were bought by Myoung-Won
Sohn, who is President of Ssang Yong Motor Company. Incedentally, Ken Greenley,
who was the designer of the Panther Cars Solo is now Consultant Director of
design at Ssang.
The Panther Cars are OK, and as the running gear is all Fraud, err Ford,
maintenance and repairs are a doddle.
Prices As I said, Tony Gilbert cars (Tel: 01203-303062) has two for sale, a “G”
reg in red for GBP 9,495 and a “A” reg 2.9 V6 for GBP 7,495
Hope this is of use,
Alan Akeister
From: RWOODLIN@garfield.foods.indiana.edu
Date: 01 Jul 96 14:16:42 EDT
Subject: fog lights
My understanding of the difference in the switching for fog lights is
that the British understand that having a light source lower to the
surface and switching off the headlights allows you to see where you
are going in a dense fog. Some American beaureucrat did not realize
that having the headlights on while using the fog lights ensures that
you can’t see anything except a wall of mist three feet in front of the car.
One of the things on my list of things to do for Fritz (my '84 XJ-S) is
to rewire the switch to its original and correct function.
Robert Woodling
From: jwh@dwrock.dw.lucent.com
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 96 14:41:00 PDT
Subject: 88 V12 5.3 Vacuum feed to Distributor
I have a question to the list. Yesterday I decided to check my timing after
installing a new oil pressure gauge sending unit ( Yes, this does seem to
fix engines wit low oil pressure 
) With the help of my wife, the timing
was at about 0 degrees at idle (900 or a little less rpm) and 18 BTDC at
3000 rpm. Then I realized I forgot to disconnect the vacuum and plug it.
After doing this, I got the same readings. Hummm… I think that this is
telling me that the tube to the distributor is not supplying any vacuum. I
did not get a chance to check anything further, I was paged to come in to
work. If my hoses are connected properly, this is what I have ( no vacuum
at the distributor )? There is a small vacuum tube that connects to the
underside of the right butterfly, this connects to a blue - greenish thing
with 3 other connections, one goes to the distributor, I did not have a
chance to trace the other two. Is this blue-greenish plastic thing only
intended to be a splitter and supply vacuum to 3 sources from one feed, or
is this a vacuum actuated switch that can shut off the vacuum feed to the
distributor? This was done with the temp gauge off bottom and I can move
the rotor about the width of the brass end against a sprung force ( about 12
degrees ? )
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
John Himes
88 XJ-S 95K Miles 
From: belmore@ns.netjax.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 17:15:14 -0500
Subject: shows
doed anyone out there know of any car shows in Illinois or wisconsin. We are
looking for several to go to. But haven’t found any in our area.
Bob
From: belmore@ns.netjax.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 17:18:47 -0500
Subject: car club
Does anyone know of any car clubs In Illinois or wisconsin. We want to get
involved with our 67 XKE 2+2. We are very new at this and haven’t found any
clubs yet or don’t know how to find out were they are. THANKS BOB
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 96 16:42:13 PDT
Subject: Wood in Jaguars
I have what might be a stupid question:
Why is it that the wood veneers in Jaguar interiors are always so
thin? Jaguar is not really a mass production car, and wood isn’t all
that expensive to begin with. Why doesn’t the manufacturer make them
a bit thicker, so they would be less subject to cracking? Or is it
a case of planned obsolescence again?
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: Yves Hiltpold hiltpold@cui.unige.ch
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 02:02:22 -0200
Subject: Brakes on S-type
Hi,
I’m new on this list. I have a 1963 S-type 3.8 Jag which hasn’t run since
1978.
I have some trouble with the brakes. The pistions which are in the front
brake caliper are stuck. How can I make them out ? Does anyone has a trick
? I’ve already tried to put compressed air and it worked for on caliper,
but the other one is really getting me nuts !
What is the best place to order parts either in UK or in the States for
this kind of car ?
Can anyone tell me if there are books except for the parts book and the
maintenance book ?
The car is in pretty good shape, the engine runs smoothly. I just don’t
have brakes !!!
Any help would be appreciated !
Yves Hiltpold
16, rue Vautier
1227 Carouge
Geneva - Switzerland
Phone/Fax : ++ 41 22 342-4944
E-mail : hiltpold@cui.unige.ch
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 19:51:48 -0500
Subject: car clubs
I second the motion…does anyone know of a jag club in Minnesota, or the
upper midwest???
Scott Phillips
'88 XJ40
PS Thanks to whom ever fixed the glitch on the multi-message
situation…I figure congrats should go to Nick!!
From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 22:37:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Starter problems
In a message dated 96-07-01 11:49:59 EDT, davecove@microsoft.com (David
Covert) writes:
Got real close to starting the V12 this past weekend…
When I first went to pre-lube, the starter made that rapid ticking sound
that starters make when they are attached to a dead battery.
Dave, are you sure you have grounded the engine block properly? This
happened to me and I had to rebuild the alternator and strter motor before
figuring it out.
Julian Mullaney
From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 1996 23:19:54 +0100
Subject: Re: car clubs
Hi all,
To those last few searches for clubs in Minn/Wisc.???
If you check out JEC (Jaguar Enthusiasts Club)
web site at;
http://www.jec.org.uk/regions/59.htm
you’ll get the contact person for that region.
Steve Favill Tele: 1 414 786 8087
Address:13226 N. Meadow Lane
New Berlin, VI 53151
The JEC web site is; http://www.JEC.ORG.UK/index.htm
There is also JCNA (North America) but I don’t have their
site. Info search in Netscape will find it, I’m sure.
Have fun,
Charles Daly,
'62 E-Type, ots
JEC member
From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 1996 23:23:59 +0100
Subject: Clubs
To my last, just sent, re: jag clubs in US,
try web site;
http://www.intex.net/~cci/jagdir1.html
it lists clubs by state.
Charles Daly
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 23:29:09 -0400
Subject: Pittsburgh Grand Prix
Does anyone know anything about the Pittsburgh GP? I understand there is a
Jaguar show associated with it this year.
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 23:29:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Roger:
A few possibilities:
-
Modern cars are subject to very strict safety regulations. US
restrictions require dashboards,etc to absorb considerable impact without
injuring occupants. I recall that the Chrysler TC (Maserati-enhanced) was
substantially delayed because the beautiful wooden steering wheel was found
to splinter on impact. Mercedes uses very, very thin veneers on aluminum
backings for the same reason. -
“Burled Walnut” seems to be the most popular interior wood finish for
autos. This is not the product of a tree, but, (believe it or not) is a
fungus, which is gathered in small chunks. It really can’t be used as solid
wood because of it’s rarity and lack of structural strength, thus must be
applied as a veneer.
Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
At 04:42 PM 7/1/96 PDT, you wrote:
I have what might be a stupid question:
Why is it that the wood veneers in Jaguar interiors are always so
thin? Jaguar is not really a mass production car, and wood isn’t all
that expensive to begin with. Why doesn’t the manufacturer make them
a bit thicker, so they would be less subject to cracking? Or is it
a case of planned obsolescence again?–
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 21:45:27 +0700
Subject: RE: Sending Pictures
Sending pictures is pretty straightforward. You can send the picture file
as an attachment to your email message. Your email package has this
as an option for new or reply messages.
If all you have is a paper picture, find someone with a color scanner
and that person can create the computer file (either a GIF or JPEG
file) that you can then attach and send to us. If you don’t know
someone with a color scanner, then you can usually take the picture
to a quick copy center such as Kinko’s or Alphagraphics and they can
scan the image for you.
G. W. Price & Company, Ltd
Probabilistic Record Linkage Services
Consultants in research, information management
and program evaluation
gprice@rt66.com
***Free answers to emailed PC questions***
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #184
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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 2 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 185
Re: Starter problems
Re: Sending Pictures
Re: XJ40 30mpg???
I’M BAAAACK!!!
'77 XJ-S - Ignition Problems
re : XJ seat parts
Re: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
RE: Reupholstering XJ6
Re: Condensation Problem in XJ-6 Series III
Re: Multiple Message Copies
Re: XJ40 30mpg???
RE: Washers
Re: XJ40 30mpg???
Re: XJ40 30mpg???
Brakes on S-type
RE: Brakes on S-type
cruise control
Wood veneer
Starter problems [result]
Air Con Installation in the UK
From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 22:10:07 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Re: Starter problems
{charger on it, and when to clean up for lunch. When I came out to go to
{lunch, I hit the ignition and the engine turned a couple of times
{weakly. Battery for sure I decided…
Dave
Download my Guide to Debugging Starters from the website.
And if you run into something not covered there, let me know so I can
add it to the file.
/\ Lawrence Buja http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern/
_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
________________Boulder,Colorado___80307-3000
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 06:17:44 +0000
Subject: Re: Sending Pictures
[ “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com ]
| Sending pictures is pretty straightforward. You can send the picture file
| as an attachment to your email message. Your email package has this
| as an option for new or reply messages.
Let me just nip this one in the bud… Sending an encoded
image to the 700 recipients of this mailing-list is not
going to win the sender any popularity prizes. The correct way
to go about it would be to put the image on a web-page and
post a pointer to it. If you don’t have your own web-pages
I can put it on the Jag-lovers pages.
Nick
<<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>>
<<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>>
The JagWeb http://www.sn.no/~nick/jaguar.html <<<
From: kharder@Direct.CA (Ken Harder)
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 1996 21:39:41 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ40 30mpg???
We have bought a 1988 Jaguar Sovereign XJ6 which has a 3.6L engine. When we
first had the car it got aprox. 10mpg in the city so I did a tune up on it. I
replaced the plugs, plug wires, distributer cap, rotor and air filter and the
mileage went up to aprox. 20 in the city. The air filter was plugged up and
I believe this to be the main problem. We just got back from a trip from
Vancouver B.C. to Portland Oregon and averaged 28.9 mpg on it!!!??? on the
highway. I compared the computer to my manual calculations and it was right.
Has anyone else had this experience? As I am new to Jaguars, I thought that
they were supposed to get terrible gas mileage and that you had to put up
with paying the gas to drive such a fine…automobile!
Ken Harder
From: Tom Graham TGraham@internetmci.com
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 1996 22:28:09 -0500
Subject: I’M BAAAACK!!!
- – [ From: Tom Graham * EMC.Ver #2.3 ] –
Howdy Chaps-
Guess NOBODY missed me these last two/three months or so!!! Way back then
I loaded Windows 95 in my PC, and, well, I’d rather not talk about it.
Anyway, here’s my greeting and first $.02,- all you true XJ6 lovers, have
you replaced that old, original ignition coil??? If not, please do it now
before you start asking questions about why the engine dies when turning a
corner, or, why it quits at 3120 rpm and then comes back to life at 2990
rpm, etc!!!
Cherio - Tom Graham
tgraham@internetmci.com
From: Derek Hibbs Derek.Hibbs@genius
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 16:08:53 +1000
Subject: '77 XJ-S - Ignition Problems
Can anyone offer information about could cause the ignition system on my '77
XJ-S to just stop dead?
I’m a new member and I enjoy sifting through all the interesting bits and
pieces that come my way. I have recently purchased a BRG (metallic) 77 XJ-S
which is my pride and joy, and up until yesterday it was running well. I had
used the vehicle only three hours earlier when it failed to start. I’ve
checked for loose connections, broken wires etc but there seems to be no
signs of life from the ignition leads. Any comments?
Thanks,
Derek Hibbs
From: “Arnold, Dr Dave” davearno@sandton.senchem.co.za
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 96 07:50:00 PDT
Subject: re : XJ seat parts
Jan Wikstroem wrote:
My local Jag parts pusher informs me that the black rubber sheet that
forms
the
base of an XJ front seat (S1 and S2, anyway) is - wait for it -
unavailable.
Guess what’s happened to mine, under its daily load of 105 bouncing kg
(233
lbs)…
Jan…same weight, same problem 8-)). My temporary solution (six
months ago and looking a bit permanent) was to buy four thick solid
rubber bungees, the sort of thing you would use to strap down a load on a
roof rack, the things that have steel hooks on each end. I arranged them
in a web so that they support the rubber sheet. You could do worse than
try this way of fixing the problem, but if (when) you find a better
solution, please let me know !
Cheers
Dave
1980 XJ6 ser II
“Toys’R’Ours”
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@CompuServe.COM
Date: 02 Jul 96 02:42:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
The XJ6 sometime has an annoying tendency to run-on after ignition taken off and
key out, very enbarrissing to leave the car and it psplutters on in bursts.
Mine woudl in bad times then suddendly reverse the direction , accelerate up in
a vioogor and tyhen die miserably spitting through the carbs
Mine is a carburetted Coupe 1978, and the cause can partly be due to too high an
idle speed. The idle speed should not exceed 750 RPM in neutral gear, and 650
then drive selected.
I have always suspected carbon build up and tried numerous de-coke fluids -
never helped anything. When I finally reconditioned the head (due to other
circumstances) the head didn’t show serious carbon residue, but there was some.
The valves however had thick thick carbon residue on the non-combustion chamber
side. must have caused several BHP in reduced airflow.
Ignition timing will probably add to the ill effects if not spot on.
Try lowering the RPM in Idle first.
Good luck jeffrey Gram
From: Bob Whiles 71561.2752@CompuServe.COM
Date: 01 Jul 96 19:55:20 EDT
Subject: RE: Reupholstering XJ6
Hi Adam,
Hi Bob,
I appreciate the reply, especially from someone with experience. Can this
job be done by one person or would assistance help? (I have a willing but
similarly inexperienced body pledged to the enterprise if needed). Any rough
idea on how much time should be put aside to do the job correctly? Where can
I get Hog-ring pliers (Snap-On, Cornwall, etc?) and the rings? How many
should I get - planning to do both fronts and the rear?
I would look in the yellow pages under upholstery supplies, go to one and get my
pliers there. Hog rings are pointed clips used to attach the cover to the seat
frame and the pliers used to attach them are sort of like pliers with the “head”
hollowed out so that the ring can fit into them. I have a pair that is straight
like a pair of pliars and find them hard to use. Try to get a pair with the
“head” bent to about a 45 degree angle (that’s inline with the handles - hope
that make sense), these are easier to use. Hog rings are normally baged and
purchased by the pound. You don’t need very many and suppose a pound will do.
It is always nice to have someone to help you get the seats in and out of the
car. Time wise I can’t say how long it should take. I haven’t done mine yet
and you should be aware of a couple of things. . .
-
When you get the old covers off inspect the foam. It goes with age and I
would expect the drivers side to go first. If it needs to be replaced, then
you’ll have two choices. Buy a new “pad” or make your own. I prefer to make
and shape my own, because I can then select the grade of foam to use. -
Some designs require that you “tie down” or hog ring in a section that gives
you the tuck inbetween the bolsters. If you find a piece of heavy wire (spring)
that is used to tie down the section between the deck (where you sit) and the
bolsters, then tie down these sections before you strech the cover out over the
rest of the seat. The same goes for any other sections like this.
Sometimes an arm rest or head rest requires some hand stiching, other than this
it’s just work. Take your time and maybe do one seat at a time, rather than
taking out the complete interior (in case it’s a driver and you take longer than
expected.
I do plan to buy
pre-made covers, being in the trade do you have recommendation for vendors?
No I don’t. I called someone on the east coast that I got the name out of
Kirby’s book. The price was right for the leather and the guy seemed OK. I
don’t remember what the companies name was. I would ask around the list to see
if anyone else has bought any. The best I can do is to tell you ask lot’s of
questions and go with the one that you think will give you the best service. Do
not select someone based on price! It’s the people that you are going to be
doing business with that will make all the difference in how things will turn
out if something goes wrong. Also inspect the covers closely before installing
them. If you are unhappy, then that would be the time to return them.
Just as curiosity, would you use a kit or make your own?
I would make my own. I can fit it as I make it, alter the shape of the seats,
select the materials and it’s cheaper. (Quicker to buy them)
Ask any specific questions that you need to. If you get in a bind let me know.
Bob Whiles, Redlands CA.
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@CompuServe.COM
Date: 02 Jul 96 02:42:34 EDT
Subject: Re: Condensation Problem in XJ-6 Series III
Hi Brian,
I think we all have this problem with air-co’s, but maybe yours is specially
“bad”. I have thought of having a circuit that reverses the polarity to the
blower motors to suck out air a minute or two after switching the ignition off
and again a minute after switching the ignition on. Hoave not got around to this
(either…).
Regards Jeffrey Gram
From: Volker Nadenau nadenau@ipers1.e-technik.uni-stuttgart.de
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 09:07:17 +0200 (MST)
Subject: Re: Multiple Message Copies
On Fri, 28 Jun 1996, Michael P. Neal wrote:
Hi Michael,
I also received lots of copies of the same message. First I thought it is
a local problem, but if you are receiving also lots of copies it is not.
Volker
Is anyone here getting multiple copies of messages? I think I’m up to 5
copies of the same messages.========================================================
Michael P. Neal Master Jaguar Technician
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
Volker Nadenau Phone: ++49 711 685 7200
University of Stuttgart Fax : ++49 711 685 7143
Institute for Physical Electronics Internet: nadenau@ipers1.e-technik.uni-stuttgart.de
Pfaffenwaldring 47
70569 Stuttgart
Germany
From: ewilliam@cisco.com (Evan Williams)
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 17:11:01 +1000
Subject: Re: XJ40 30mpg???
Ken,
Don’t talk miles anymore but 10 liters per 100 km is OK at 120km/h. Around
town 13-14 l/100km. Sounds like you did a good job.
We have bought a 1988 Jaguar Sovereign XJ6 which has a 3.6L engine. When we
first had the car it got aprox. 10mpg in the city so I did a tune up on it. I
replaced the plugs, plug wires, distributer cap, rotor and air filter and the
mileage went up to aprox. 20 in the city. The air filter was plugged up and
I believe this to be the main problem. We just got back from a trip from
Vancouver B.C. to Portland Oregon and averaged 28.9 mpg on it!!!??? on the
highway. I compared the computer to my manual calculations and it was right.Has anyone else had this experience? As I am new to Jaguars, I thought that
they were supposed to get terrible gas mileage and that you had to put up
with paying the gas to drive such a fine…automobile!Ken Harder
Regards
Evan Williams
Account Manager Federal Region
Email: ewilliam@cisco.com
Phone: 61-6-2180505
Fax: 61-6-2574922
Mobile: 61-0419236992
Page 61-24306381
Cisco Systems Australia
Patience is a virtue afforded
those with nothing better to do
From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 09:39 +0200
Subject: RE: Washers
Hello Ryan, I used to have an XK150 a long time ago with the same washers.=20
When the button on the dash is pushed, vacuum is connected to the washer=20
mechanism. It pulls a diaphragm in the dome on the inside of the washer=20
fixed to the lid on the bottle. On the other side of the diaphragm water is=20=
drawn from the bottle. When you release the button on the dash, atmospheric=20=
pressure is allowed on the vacuum side of the diaphragm and the spring=20
action of it (and may be an auxiliary spring?) pushes the water drawn=20
beforehand to the washer jets. I have never taken it apart so I know nothing=20=
of the valves in the washer mechanism. So water is spraying only after you=20
release the button.
Frans.
Hi all,
While we’re on the subject of windshield washers, lets get back on
track and see if anybody can explain the function of my non-functional
windshield washer on my Jag (a '59 MK1).The control (at least I think this was the washer control) is nothing
more than a valve: you push the button on the dash and the valve opens.
My belief is that this somehow worked off of engine vacuum; though I
haven’t figured out how it was hooked up… all that was left behind
the dash were stubs of crusty rubber hoses.How did it work?
How would I go about hooking it back up?Thanks-
Ryan.PS: For you old timers, I figure it’s asking this once a year or so :-).
=20
From: Mark Stiles ittmjs@staffs.ac.uk
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 09:00:25 +0100
Subject: Re: XJ40 30mpg???
The owners handbook for my 90 model Daimler 4.0 indicates approx
33mpg(imperial) at a steady 56mph and 30mpg at a steady 75mph. I’m
getting around 18mpg pottering around town but even a short 30 mile run
will increase the average on the trip computer significantly(I only
reset it now and then), so your 28.9 seems quite reasonable.
One feature of trip computer than always amuses me is the "Instant
mpg"reading, which indicates zero when sat stationary in traffic -
quite properly of course - this is one occasion when all cars do the
same mpg!! (What you need then is gallons per hour idling!)
Mark
On Mon, 01 Jul 1996 21:39:41 -0700 Ken Harder kharder@Direct.CA wrote:
We have bought a 1988 Jaguar Sovereign XJ6 which has a 3.6L
engine. When we
first had the car it got aprox. 10mpg in the city so I did a tune up on it. I
replaced the plugs, plug wires, distributer cap, rotor and air filter and the
mileage went up to aprox. 20 in the city. The air filter was plugged up and
I believe this to be the main problem. We just got back from a trip from
Vancouver B.C. to Portland Oregon and averaged 28.9 mpg on it!!!??? on the
highway. I compared the computer to my manual calculations and it was right.Has anyone else had this experience? As I am new to Jaguars, I thought that
they were supposed to get terrible gas mileage and that you had to put up
with paying the gas to drive such a fine…automobile!Ken Harder
Mark Stiles - Academic Development Manager
IT Services
Staffordshire University
01785 353410
From: Roly Alcock roly@redac.co.uk
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 09:20:28 +0100
Subject: Re: XJ40 30mpg???
Not more political correctness!
I still don’t know how hot 23 degrees centigrade is, I’ll certainly never
understand litres and kloms.
Ken,
Don’t talk miles anymore but 10 liters per 100 km is OK at 120km/h. Around
town 13-14 l/100km. Sounds like you did a good job.
Roly Alcock, (Postmaster) Principal Systems Engineer
Redac Systems Ltd, Tel: 01684 294161 ext. 211
Zuken-Redac Group, Fax: 01684 298902
Green Lane,
Tewkesbury, E-mail: roly@redac.co.uk
Gloucestershire, GL20 8HE, UK Web: http://www.redac.co.uk
From: “Alastar W. Lauener” bu08@central.napier.ac.uk
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 09:23:43 +0100
Subject: Brakes on S-type
Hello Yves
You were having trouble with your S-Type brakes. I am assuming that you have
the caliper off the car. If you really cannot get out the piston, even using
compressed air, leverage will not work. Those piston lugs are fragile.
You can put grease nipples on either side of the piston housing after removing
the pipes, and use a grease gun to force out the piston. This does make a
big mess which takes ages to clean up, but then you want to have a clean caliper
anyway. You are probably best to change the seals after contact with grease,
but I don’t know. I did. If you are going to do more pistons, put the grease
back in the grease gun. Remember, this grease will be contaminated after use
and shouldn’t be used for anything else.
I had to use this procedure on every one of the eight pistons on my car
and used lots of grease.
BTW, my family comes from Switzerland originally, and we have many cousins
there still. My S-Type has been all round Switzerland twice when I was
a young boy on family holidays, although I haven’t been there for a number of
years, my brother has just returned from visiting the family
- Alastair Lauener Work Phone +44 131 455 2458 *
- Chief Technician Fax +44 131 455 2267 *
- Department of Building & Surveying Home Phone +44 1577 864242 *
- Napier University, Edinburgh EH10 5DT a.lauener@central.napier.ac.uk *
- 1964 3.4 S-Type story at http://www.sn.no/home/nick/alas.html *
From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 11:45 +0200
Subject: RE: Brakes on S-type
Salut Yves,
Alastair has already given you good advice what to do with your brake=20
cylinders. I would renew them if the car has been idle for such a long time=20=
as the originals are quite prone to corrosion. I usually order parts from=20
David Manners or F.B. Components in the U.K.
I’ve received a flyer from British Auto USA that they now have stainless=20
steel cylinders, a bit more expensive but corrosion proof. If you want their=20=
addresses, contact me by e-mail.
Don’t forget the E-type meeting coming week-end in Geneva for the 35 th=20
anniversary of the E-type presentation in Geneva in 1961.
Frans.
Hi,
I’m new on this list. I have a 1963 S-type 3.8 Jag which hasn’t run since
1978.I have some trouble with the brakes. The pistions which are in the front
brake caliper are stuck. How can I make them out ? Does anyone has a trick=20=
? I’ve already tried to put compressed air and it worked for on caliper,
but the other one is really getting me nuts !What is the best place to order parts either in UK or in the States for
this kind of car ?Can anyone tell me if there are books except for the parts book and the
maintenance book ?The car is in pretty good shape, the engine runs smoothly. I just don’t
have brakes !!!Any help would be appreciated !
Yves Hiltpold
16, rue Vautier
1227 Carouge
Geneva - Switzerland
Phone/Fax : ++ 41 22 342-4944
E-mail : hiltpold@cui.unige.ch=20
From: hewittr@iaccess.com.au (RON HEWITT)
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 21:26:58 GMT
Subject: cruise control
My s111 xj6 1983 sovereign cruise control main unit was lost by the po does
anybody have one (preferably in australia ) and what are they worth.
Also the automatic is not changing down to first gear until almost stopped
causing a clonk from the rear is this just cable adjustment it is adjusted
right according to the crimp or something else the car has done 160klms and
is immaculate.
Cheers
Ron
From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@CompuServe.COM
Date: 02 Jul 96 07:50:51 EDT
Subject: Wood veneer
I always assumed that veneers were thin because that was all they had to be. I
just had some veneered timber installed in my office, and the veneer seems
hardly thicker than a couple of sheets of paper. I can’t imagine why a cost
conscious bloke like Lyons would have objected. Regards, John Elmgreen
From: David Covert davecove@microsoft.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 06:26:12 -0700
Subject: Starter problems [result]
First of all, I want to thank all of those that responded. The solution
came from those suggestions.
As I read responses yesterday, I came to realize that I could not
guarantee the condition of the ground for the engine. So when I got home
last night, I took a jumper cable, attached one end to the negative
battery terminal, and the other end to a convenient bracket on the
engine.
Starter worked fine… 8 }
Now to find that grounding strap I must have missed…
Dave Covert
…Particle Man, Particle Man, doin’ the things a particle can…
They Might Be Giants
From: Scott Demaret scott.demaret@ioppublishing.co.uk
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 14:34:46 +0100
Subject: Air Con Installation in the UK
I’ve noticed a few people have requested details of companies who install Air
Con systems in the UK.
The best person I know of is below, and he is also a time served jaguar
mechanic and quite reasonable
P J G Auto Services
Servicing - Repairs
All Makes of Cars
Specialist in Rolls Royce, Bentley, Range Rover & JAGUAR
Air conditioning, Installation and Repairs
Bristol 01179 611527
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #185
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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 3 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 186
1987 XJ-S differential differences
more on possible vacuum problem 88 XJ-S 5.3L V12 US specs
Charging problems
Seattle mechanic
Urgent: Any good Jaguar mechanics in Amsterdam, NL?
Re: Panther cars
RE: XJ6 s3 ('87) Electrical Problem
CO Analyzer / Original hoses
Re: Panther cars
charging problems
Re: Starter problems [result]
PITTSBURGH VINTAGE GRAND PRIX
Re: Wood in Jaguars
'84 XJS fog light switch
1987 XJ-S ECU fuel air mixture control
Re: Air Con Installation in the UK
Re: Wood in Jaguars
Re[2]: Wood in Jaguars
Re: CO Analyzer / Original hoses
Re: Panther cars
Re: CO Analyzer / Original hoses
Re: Panther cars
From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 09:52:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: 1987 XJ-S differential differences
I have an 87 XJ-S with I believe a Dana rear end. (which I am
told you can tell by the lack of a drain plug) A friend is
willing to give me rear calipers and disks from a Saginaw
differential XJ-S that I would rebuild and use in mine if
they are interchangable. Can anyone tell me whether the
rear brake components are the same on Dana and Saginaw diffs?
Thomas E. Alberts
From: jwh@dwrock.dw.lucent.com
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 96 08:01:00 PDT
Subject: more on possible vacuum problem 88 XJ-S 5.3L V12 US specs
Earlier I posted a question to the list, in summary the question was that my
timing with the vacuum connected or disconnected & plugged was the same with
the engine warm at 0 degrees at idle & 18 BDTC at 3000 rpm. Last night I
was able to do a little more diagnostic work.
With the car VERY warmed up, I checked the vacuum from the green control
valve to the distributor, 0 vacuum at idle, and very little at 2500 - 3000
rpm. I then checked the vacuum from the underside of the right-hand
butterfly valve that supplies the valve and this source was very strong. I
did not get a chance to check the other line to the control valve marked
CARB. I do not know what this green control valve is intended to do. It
looks like it gets its source of vacuum from the underside of the right
butterfly, and has 2 lines marked DIST & CARB. The line feeding the DIST
has a T in it and also feeds something else. The line marked CARB goes to a
round black & orangish underside & a metallic silver disk in the middle of
the underside plastic device mounted above the right thermostat that also
gets a vacuum feed from the side of the right butterfly. What should I be
checking for or how are these devices intended to work?
Thanks for your input and any other help.
John Himes
88 XJ-S 95K Miles
From: Harjit Singh harjit@kinkos.com
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 07:24:51 -0700
Subject: Charging problems
Hi
I have an 84 XJ6 that’s been perplexing me. The charging system seems
to work on or off depending on its mood. Sometimes when I switch tanks
or use the heater/A/C fan the charging system would cut out. The
battery gauge would indicate no charge and it will like that until it drains
the battery. The irony is that the battery idiot light indicates that it is
charging. It does not light up. I checked the light and it is working. If I
leave the car overnight or for 6 hours or so, the charging system comes
back to life. Looks to me there is a short of some sort but where and
how.
I have replaced the Lucas alternator and checked all the connections and
wires and they are all in good order.
Does anyone out there ever experience such a dilemma or have any
suggestions. I am at wits end.
Harjit
Kinko’s Corporate MIS
From: bill@wmspear.com (Bill Spear)
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 07:40:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Seattle mechanic
From: g.pearson@williams-helde.com (Greg Pearson)
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 1996 10:59:16 -0800
Subject: Jag Mechanic Needed
Can anyone recommend a good Mechanic in the Seattle area for a
pre-purchase check out?
Al Gerard (Jr) in Belleview would be an excellent choice for this or other
Jaguar work. He rebuilt my E-Type engine which hasn’t had a hiccup in two
years and as I remember he is an enthusiast for 83-86 Jaguar engines. Tell
them I said hello if you call. Cheers, Bill Spear
Gerard Coachworks
3111 107th SE
Belleview, Wa. 98004
206/869-1747
Bill Spear
227 7th Street
Juneau, Alaska 99801
907/586-2209 v
907/586-6858 f
bill@wmspear.com
The world’s most wonderful pins…
http://www.carmelnet.com/spearpins
Play the accordian, go to jail. That’s the law.
From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 16:59:28 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Urgent: Any good Jaguar mechanics in Amsterdam, NL?
I’ve decided to drive to Amsterdam next week. The whole trip is a sort
of spur-of-the-moment thing so I haven’t planned in advance. I’ll be in
Amsterdam from Monday July 8 to Friday July 12.
Parking in Amsterdam is expensive so I thought “why not put the car in
for a tune-up instead?”.
Does anyone on the list know of a good Jaguar mechanic or garage in or
near Amsterdam? My car is an '86 SIII XJ6 4.2 Sovereign and the work I
want done is a tune-up/service of the engine and a diagnosis of the front
and rear suspension (I want to know what parts are gone and should be
replaced, I’ll fix it myself later).
An official Jaguar dealer is OK I guess, they’re bound to be cheaper than
Oslo Jaguar Service anyway.
If anyone on the list is living in Amsterdam and would like to meet,
drop me a line in private email!
Thanks,
Gunnar
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar XJ6 4.2 Sovereign
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | Vicki who? What .sig virus?
From: Peter Carpenter afp332@bangor.ac.uk
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 16:24:38 +0100 (BST)
Subject: Re: Panther cars
On 1 Jul 1996, Alan Akeister wrote:
Michael,
Panther Sports cars. I looked at a couple in Ryton at Tony Gilbert Cars. Very
nice for what they are.
You can have either a Ford V62.9 Ltr from the Scorpio or a 1600cc XR engine
fitted.
This one was called a Kallista. There seems to be a distant and VERY vague
memory of another model the Lima. And wasn’t there another company that
made something like the ‘J2’? I am sure that there was one based on Jag
running gear…
As usual my massage has been of no help…
From: Ed Scripps 73200.2362@CompuServe.COM
Date: 02 Jul 96 11:19:49 EDT
Subject: RE: XJ6 s3 ('87) Electrical Problem
DaveofNJ@aol.com wrote:
I have a bizarre electrical problem with my '87 XJ6 s3.
Isn’t this redundant when talking about a Jag?
Sorry,
- -Ed-
From: Ed Scripps 73200.2362@CompuServe.COM
Date: 02 Jul 96 11:33:40 EDT
Subject: CO Analyzer / Original hoses
I’m considering purchasing a CO analyzer. I have a couple of old multiple
carburetor cars that I would use the device for. One, the '66 Jag doesn’t have
any manifold CO test tubes but couldn’t I use the probe up the exhaust pipes?
Where could I get a CO analyzer?
Is there any source that is still making the old hoses that for lack of a better
term have a type of braided cloth covering?
Thanks
- -Ed-
From: David Wood David.Wood@durham.ac.uk
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 16:59:17 PDT
Subject: Re: Panther cars
On Tue, 2 Jul 1996 16:24:38 +0100 (BST) Peter Carpenter wrote:
… Panther Sports cars. I am sure that there was one based on Jag
running gear…
I hope I’m picking up this thread correctly. The Panther based on Jag running gear
was called the de Ville, using the V12 engine, auto box and rear suspension of an
XJS. Made in the late 1970’s, it was ‘styled’ to look like a huge late 1920’s car.
Very over the top: grotesque to some, beautiful to others, different beyond any
doubt!
Very rare - I’ve never seen one on the road. I wonder how many were made - and
how many are left? And what about the six wheeler Panther Solo, in the style of a
Tyrrell racing car??
Cheers,
Dave Wood.
From: Harjit Singh harjit@kinkos.com
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 09:03:22 -0700
Subject: charging problems
Hi
I have an 84 XJ6 that’s been perplexing me. The charging system seems to
work on or off depending on its mood. Sometimes when I switch tanks or
use the heater/A/C fan the charging system would cut out. The battery
gauge would indicate no charge and it will like that until it drains the
battery. The irony is that the battery idiot light indicates that it is
charging. It does not light up. I checked the light and it is working.
If I leave the car overnight or for 6 hours or so, the charging system
comes back to life. Looks to me there is a short of some sort but where
and how.
I have replaced the Lucas alternator and checked all the connections and
wires and they are all in good order.
Does anyone out there ever experience such a dilemma or have any
suggestions. I am at wits end.
Harjit
Kinko’s Corporate MIS
From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 13:07:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Starter problems [result]
Now to find that grounding strap I must have missed…
I think we are working with an XJ-S here right? THere should
be one that goes from a sandwich plate bolt to the suspension
carrier, and another from the frame to the suspension carrier.
Both are optimally located so they are almost impossible to
see or reach with the suspension and exhaust system installed.
They are on the left side and bolt on th the rear edge of the
suspension carrier. Good luck.
Thomas E. Alberts
From: Felts_Thomas_L/atc_mail5-id@mail5-id.atc.alcoa.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 96 13:12:50 -0400
Subject: PITTSBURGH VINTAGE GRAND PRIX
Someone asked about the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix. In a word
“fantastic”! Saturday, 20 July is British Car day—approx. 400 cars
from Spitfires to Rolls. Also, the vintage cars are doing time trials
that day. Event held in Schindley Park in the Oakland section of Pitts.
Sunday is race day. They always have a marque of the year for this
event and this year the Jag is the marque. The Jags will have a special
parking spot near the finish line and there is plenty of refreshments
and chatter!
If you are near Pittsburgh at this time, and love Brit cars–esp. Jags,
this is the place to be.
Call if you need other info.
Tom Felts 412 325-1293
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 96 12:58:06 PDT
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
I think the deteriorating wood in Jaguars ought to be considered a
quality problem. If they’re going to put wood in there, they ought
to make it last a while. Just about all of the 80’s and some 90’s
XJ6’s and XJS’s I’ve seen have cracked, faded or broken up wood.
The original intention of having wood in the interior is to provide
a luxurious, classy atmosphere, but after a few afternoons in the sun,
the deteriorated wood tends to give a shabby atmosphere instead.
Therefore, I try to never park under the sun for extended periods of
time, which is sometimes inconvenient. German and Japanese makes
tend to not suffer from this problem, although their wood often look
like plastic! I guess you just can’t have everything.
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 96 13:30:00 PDT
Subject: '84 XJS fog light switch
Robert,
If the '84 XJS headlamp switch is the same as the '84 XJ6 switch,
conversion to original spec is straightforward (per the Haynes '82-'86 XJ6
SI/II/III manual, page 252):
- Disconnect battery.
- Remove switch.
- Remove the fiber optic (which blocks the switch from turning to the fog
position). - Depress the switch and turn it to the fog position.
- Re-install the fiber optic, 90’ rotated (I’ll have to see this to comprehend
it but it should be obvious). - Per the Haynes schematic, the fog lamps are connected directly to lug 5 of
the switch. I think the wires to the front may be in place on the car, but
possibly not (haven’t looked). Per Haynes, there is no relay. I think I’ll put
in a relay, just to be safe. - Install some fog lamps.
Your mail was an inspiration to me - this is now on the list of things to do
before the Sacramento fog season comes back this winter. This will come after
the radiator is cleaned out (just dropped it off at a shop today), the A/C
compressor and evaporator are replaced, and the transmission is replaced.
Hopefully this year.
Regards,
David
'84 XJ6 VDP
- -------from Robert Woodlin-------
Subject: fog lights
My understanding of the difference in the switching for fog lights is
that the British understand that having a light source lower to the
surface and switching off the headlights allows you to see where you
are going in a dense fog. Some American beaureucrat did not realize
that having the headlights on while using the fog lights ensures that
you can’t see anything except a wall of mist three feet in front of the
car.
One of the things on my list of things to do for Fritz (my '84 XJ-S) is
to rewire the switch to its original and correct function.
Robert Woodling
- -----------------------------end----------------------
From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 17:36:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: 1987 XJ-S ECU fuel air mixture control
I have been inticed by various sources into curiosity over the
ECU fuel/air mixture adjustment on the ECU. It is reported
that this adjustment is to be used only by authorized cites to
obtain proper emissions. It is also reported that user adjustment
leads to smoother idle and perhaps better performance. Does
anyone car to comment? Is there some proper tool for the
adjustment besides going in with a Dremal tool and cutting a slot
in the shaft? What rationale does one use to establish a good
mixture? O_2 sensor output?
Thomas E. Alberts
From: tony goodall tony@goodall.u-net.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 22:45:52 +0100
Subject: Re: Air Con Installation in the UK
At 14:34 02/07/96 +0100, Scott Demaret wrote:
I’ve noticed a few people have requested details of companies who install Air
Con systems in the UK.
I know a place in Formby, Lancashire if it’s useful
tony
Dr. A. Goodall http://www.u-net.com/~goodall/
From: DavidZ333@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 18:26:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Skipping the question of veneer as opposed to thick wood, inherently prone to
splitting :
When I was in high school (56-60), a friend and I used to go through the
classies in order to even find an interesting automobile to look
at and some times drive.
Once we went to see a British racing green XK120 coupe. When the owner
showed us the car, his children were with him. When he opened the door, each
of the two children grabbed a rag from storage inside and began to polish the
wood work. The owner said that they were “trained” to go over the wood with
an oil soaked cloth every time they got in the car. The wood was glorious.
if you want plastic impregnated wood in your cars - and ancient salvaged
sailing ships - that is your choice. However, some things in life require
the active involvement of intelligent life in order to maintain a level of
quality.
How do you feel about the family in the ads who spray their mags and then
hang around with hanging mouths watching them become pristine and perfect - a
late 20th century American take on civilization.
Perhaps a virtual Jaguar would do.
This does require avoidance of stressful situations such as daily intense
sunlight and yahoo pseudomechanics. There is no substitute for TLC, tung
oil, and soft natural fibers.
David
From: mkenrick@golder.com (Michael Kenrick)
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 16:21:31 -0700
Subject: Re[2]: Wood in Jaguars
This is a Mime message, which your current mail reader
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-
–IMA.Boundary.048943638
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Content-Description: cc:Mail note partI wonder if David is right about TLC for the modern car as well…
Surely the problem with wood in 80’s models is not the veneer being
too thin, but drying and cracking of the polyurethane coating.When I finally understood what was happening to my porous and “living”
autopaint as I polished and waxed my feline beast, I wondered if other
similar finishes might benefit from the replenishment of vital oils
and whatever… No doubt someone will say that polyurethane is a
different animal all together, and can absorb nothing through its
non-porous surface…Anyway, I occasionally rub a little yellow car wax (Meguiar’s) over
the polyurethane coating which protects that beautiful veneer… Does
this help?I have an 86 XJ-S that spent 5 years in California, and has now
completed 5 years in the Pacific Northwest. It is parked outside
every day, rain or shine, but with a screen sunshade in the summer.
Original wood is perfect. Cause and effect, or did I just get lucky?Michael Kenrick
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To: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com, jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
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From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 20:01:04 GMT
Subject: Re: CO Analyzer / Original hoses
On 2 Jul 1996, Ed Scripps wrote:
One, the '66 Jag doesn’t have
any manifold CO test tubes but couldn’t I use the probe up the exhaust pipes?
Yes. If it has got twin exhaust system and twin carburettors you get the
benefit of one measuring point per carb.
Where could I get a CO analyzer?
Gunson makes some inexpensive ones. I’ve got the model with the analogue
instrument powered by the car battery. It works like a dream. I paid slightly
over $100 for it here in Norway.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 20:33:40 GMT
Subject: Re: Panther cars
On Tue, 2 Jul 1996, Peter Carpenter wrote:
On 1 Jul 1996, Alan Akeister wrote:
Panther Sports cars.
This one was called a Kallista. There seems to be a distant and VERY vague
memory of another model the Lima. And wasn’t there another company that
made something like the ‘J2’?
The J72, you mean? That was an SS100 lookalike made by, indeed, Panther
in the 70s. Running gear was from Jaguar.
All in all a pretty tasteless contraption, if you ask me. Although
overshadowed in terms of vulgarity by the US inventor of the “replicar”
idea, the Excalibur. A true “Liberace” among cars.
The Lima and the Kallista is more or less the same thing, methinks. Just
different years, engines and ownership, Panther being sold to Korean
interests. Although it is also of 30s “style”, its got a character more of
its own.
The ‘J2’ was a different animal altogether. A two seater sports made by
Allard around 1950. Quicker than the XK120, but the latter was the more
handsome. Not that the J2 is ugly, it is IMHO the prettiest of the
Allards, with its distinctive scuttle shape, aero screens and front cycle
wings.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 20:01:04 GMT
Subject: Re: CO Analyzer / Original hoses
On 2 Jul 1996, Ed Scripps wrote:
One, the '66 Jag doesn’t have
any manifold CO test tubes but couldn’t I use the probe up the exhaust pipes?
Yes. If it has got twin exhaust system and twin carburettors you get the
benefit of one measuring point per carb.
Where could I get a CO analyzer?
Gunson makes some inexpensive ones. I’ve got the model with the analogue
instrument powered by the car battery. It works like a dream. I paid slightly
over $100 for it here in Norway.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 20:33:40 GMT
Subject: Re: Panther cars
On Tue, 2 Jul 1996, Peter Carpenter wrote:
On 1 Jul 1996, Alan Akeister wrote:
Panther Sports cars.
This one was called a Kallista. There seems to be a distant and VERY vague
memory of another model the Lima. And wasn’t there another company that
made something like the ‘J2’?
The J72, you mean? That was an SS100 lookalike made by, indeed, Panther
in the 70s. Running gear was from Jaguar.
All in all a pretty tasteless contraption, if you ask me. Although
overshadowed in terms of vulgarity by the US inventor of the “replicar”
idea, the Excalibur. A true “Liberace” among cars.
The Lima and the Kallista is more or less the same thing, methinks. Just
different years, engines and ownership, Panther being sold to Korean
interests. Although it is also of 30s “style”, its got a character more of
its own.
The ‘J2’ was a different animal altogether. A two seater sports made by
Allard around 1950. Quicker than the XK120, but the latter was the more
handsome. Not that the J2 is ugly, it is IMHO the prettiest of the
Allards, with its distinctive scuttle shape, aero screens and front cycle
wings.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #186
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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 3 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 187
Re: Wood in Jaguars
Re: Wood in Jaguars
Re: CO Analyzer / Original hoses
Re: Panther cars
Re[2]: Wood in Jaguars (fwd)
Re: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
Re: Wood in Jaguars
Re[2]: Wood in Jaguars (fwd)
Re: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
Re: Wood in Jaguars
Re: Wood in Jaguars
Re: CO Analyzer / Original hoses
Re: Panther cars
Re: Starter problems
Re: XK 120 - hard to start
Re: Starter problems
Re: XK 120 - hard to start
Re[2]: Wood in Jaguars (fwd)
Re: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
Re: Wood in Jaguars
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 96 15:41:38 PDT
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Another naive question from someone who hasn’t done any woodwork:
Why not take a piece of wood, and just make a wooden dashboard out of it
with no veneer on the surface? Instead just put colored varnish on the surface
to make it look nice. Is this not done because a regular wooden surface
would be too soft and subject to scratches and dents?
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 96 15:41:38 PDT
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Another naive question from someone who hasn’t done any woodwork:
Why not take a piece of wood, and just make a wooden dashboard out of it
with no veneer on the surface? Instead just put colored varnish on the surface
to make it look nice. Is this not done because a regular wooden surface
would be too soft and subject to scratches and dents?
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 20:01:04 GMT
Subject: Re: CO Analyzer / Original hoses
On 2 Jul 1996, Ed Scripps wrote:
One, the '66 Jag doesn’t have
any manifold CO test tubes but couldn’t I use the probe up the exhaust pipes?
Yes. If it has got twin exhaust system and twin carburettors you get the
benefit of one measuring point per carb.
Where could I get a CO analyzer?
Gunson makes some inexpensive ones. I’ve got the model with the analogue
instrument powered by the car battery. It works like a dream. I paid slightly
over $100 for it here in Norway.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 20:33:40 GMT
Subject: Re: Panther cars
On Tue, 2 Jul 1996, Peter Carpenter wrote:
On 1 Jul 1996, Alan Akeister wrote:
Panther Sports cars.
This one was called a Kallista. There seems to be a distant and VERY vague
memory of another model the Lima. And wasn’t there another company that
made something like the ‘J2’?
The J72, you mean? That was an SS100 lookalike made by, indeed, Panther
in the 70s. Running gear was from Jaguar.
All in all a pretty tasteless contraption, if you ask me. Although
overshadowed in terms of vulgarity by the US inventor of the “replicar”
idea, the Excalibur. A true “Liberace” among cars.
The Lima and the Kallista is more or less the same thing, methinks. Just
different years, engines and ownership, Panther being sold to Korean
interests. Although it is also of 30s “style”, its got a character more of
its own.
The ‘J2’ was a different animal altogether. A two seater sports made by
Allard around 1950. Quicker than the XK120, but the latter was the more
handsome. Not that the J2 is ugly, it is IMHO the prettiest of the
Allards, with its distinctive scuttle shape, aero screens and front cycle
wings.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 96 17:09:18 PDT
Subject: Re[2]: Wood in Jaguars (fwd)
|
| Anyway, I occasionally rub a little yellow car wax (Meguiar’s) over
| the polyurethane coating which protects that beautiful veneer… Does
| this help?
|
| Michael Kenrick
|
A more general question: Do you guys periodically put anything on the wood?
I’m hesitant to mess with the wood, fearing that some chemical compound
might accidentally cause the surface finish/color to fade.
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 12:24:20
Subject: Re: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
Let me add my $0.016 ($A0.02) to this thread: this problem is basically
design-related. One possible cure is to change to one grade colder spark plugs;
this works on some cars. Inspect the face of one plug; if the insulator is
white, change to a plug with a higher heat rating (insulator protrudes less
into the combustion chamber). It should be milk chocolate coloured after a
normal speed run.
This doesn’t always work out; some combustion chambers have swirl centres where
coke collects very quickly and builds up deposits thick enough to glow. One way
to live with such engines (forget about decoking every 10,000 miles) is very
simple: give it full throttle as you switch off the ignition. The sudden inrush
of cold air helps stop the glowing, and the greater pumping power required
stops the engine rotating more quickly.
-
- Jan
From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 96 21:28:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
*** Resending note of 07/03/96 11:18
*** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FE21
*** INTERNET - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM *** IBMMAIL - AUIBMSPM ****
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Another naive question from someone who hasn’t done any woodwork:
Why not take a piece of wood, and just make a wooden dashboard out of it
with no veneer on the surface? Instead just put colored varnish on the surfac
to make it look nice. Is this not done because a regular wooden surface
would be too soft and subject to scratches and dents?
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Roger, the reason is that the really nice wood is the burl. This comes
from when a branch falls off a tree, and the spot where it came from
gets a ‘rounded’ look, much like a wart on our skin. Compared to the
overall size of the tree, there is a very small percentage of burl.
Since it looks so great, it is in high demand, and is therefore
expensive as hell.
Therefore, they use cheap junky plywood, and put a sliver of walnut
veneer on the outside. Looks great, and is 1/20th the cost of solid burl.
I personally love the chestnut burl they use in Rolls Royce/Bently. Much
lighter, like the biscuit trim in the jaguar. I’ll eventually buy some
myself and retrim my woodwork to match my biscuit connolly leather. Will
also do around all the switches and gear stick.
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 96 17:09:18 PDT
Subject: Re[2]: Wood in Jaguars (fwd)
|
| Anyway, I occasionally rub a little yellow car wax (Meguiar’s) over
| the polyurethane coating which protects that beautiful veneer… Does
| this help?
|
| Michael Kenrick
|
A more general question: Do you guys periodically put anything on the wood?
I’m hesitant to mess with the wood, fearing that some chemical compound
might accidentally cause the surface finish/color to fade.
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 12:24:20
Subject: Re: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
Let me add my $0.016 ($A0.02) to this thread: this problem is basically
design-related. One possible cure is to change to one grade colder spark plugs;
this works on some cars. Inspect the face of one plug; if the insulator is
white, change to a plug with a higher heat rating (insulator protrudes less
into the combustion chamber). It should be milk chocolate coloured after a
normal speed run.
This doesn’t always work out; some combustion chambers have swirl centres where
coke collects very quickly and builds up deposits thick enough to glow. One way
to live with such engines (forget about decoking every 10,000 miles) is very
simple: give it full throttle as you switch off the ignition. The sudden inrush
of cold air helps stop the glowing, and the greater pumping power required
stops the engine rotating more quickly.
-
- Jan
From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 96 21:28:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
*** Resending note of 07/03/96 11:18
*** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FE21
*** INTERNET - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM *** IBMMAIL - AUIBMSPM ****
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Another naive question from someone who hasn’t done any woodwork:
Why not take a piece of wood, and just make a wooden dashboard out of it
with no veneer on the surface? Instead just put colored varnish on the surfac
to make it look nice. Is this not done because a regular wooden surface
would be too soft and subject to scratches and dents?
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Roger, the reason is that the really nice wood is the burl. This comes
from when a branch falls off a tree, and the spot where it came from
gets a ‘rounded’ look, much like a wart on our skin. Compared to the
overall size of the tree, there is a very small percentage of burl.
Since it looks so great, it is in high demand, and is therefore
expensive as hell.
Therefore, they use cheap junky plywood, and put a sliver of walnut
veneer on the outside. Looks great, and is 1/20th the cost of solid burl.
I personally love the chestnut burl they use in Rolls Royce/Bently. Much
lighter, like the biscuit trim in the jaguar. I’ll eventually buy some
myself and retrim my woodwork to match my biscuit connolly leather. Will
also do around all the switches and gear stick.
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 96 15:41:38 PDT
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Another naive question from someone who hasn’t done any woodwork:
Why not take a piece of wood, and just make a wooden dashboard out of it
with no veneer on the surface? Instead just put colored varnish on the surface
to make it look nice. Is this not done because a regular wooden surface
would be too soft and subject to scratches and dents?
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 20:01:04 GMT
Subject: Re: CO Analyzer / Original hoses
On 2 Jul 1996, Ed Scripps wrote:
One, the '66 Jag doesn’t have
any manifold CO test tubes but couldn’t I use the probe up the exhaust pipes?
Yes. If it has got twin exhaust system and twin carburettors you get the
benefit of one measuring point per carb.
Where could I get a CO analyzer?
Gunson makes some inexpensive ones. I’ve got the model with the analogue
instrument powered by the car battery. It works like a dream. I paid slightly
over $100 for it here in Norway.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 20:33:40 GMT
Subject: Re: Panther cars
On Tue, 2 Jul 1996, Peter Carpenter wrote:
On 1 Jul 1996, Alan Akeister wrote:
Panther Sports cars.
This one was called a Kallista. There seems to be a distant and VERY vague
memory of another model the Lima. And wasn’t there another company that
made something like the ‘J2’?
The J72, you mean? That was an SS100 lookalike made by, indeed, Panther
in the 70s. Running gear was from Jaguar.
All in all a pretty tasteless contraption, if you ask me. Although
overshadowed in terms of vulgarity by the US inventor of the “replicar”
idea, the Excalibur. A true “Liberace” among cars.
The Lima and the Kallista is more or less the same thing, methinks. Just
different years, engines and ownership, Panther being sold to Korean
interests. Although it is also of 30s “style”, its got a character more of
its own.
The ‘J2’ was a different animal altogether. A two seater sports made by
Allard around 1950. Quicker than the XK120, but the latter was the more
handsome. Not that the J2 is ugly, it is IMHO the prettiest of the
Allards, with its distinctive scuttle shape, aero screens and front cycle
wings.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 11:31:06
Subject: Re: Starter problems
I’d start by checking the earth (ground) connections, Dave. There’s excessive
resistance somewhere in the circuit - just the oppposite of a short. The engine
earth strap may not be making perfect contact with the chassis, for instance;
the battery negative strap ditto, for another. A good, quick trouble-shooting
method is to put a voltmeter across various parts of the cirquit and operating
the starter; bad contact will show up as a significant (more than the odd volt)
voltage. I’d start by connecting the voltmeter between the engine block and the
chassis…
Just as a f’rinstance, I once had the exact same problem with Rover 75 ('51
model), which has the battery under the rear seat. There were so many bad
contact spots in the chassis itself that I had to put a continuous earth strap
from battery to engine.
Good hunting,
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 11:22:03
Subject: Re: XK 120 - hard to start
The engine firing when you let go of the start button is a typical symptom of
ballast resistor trouble. I’m not saying that’s necessarily what you have here,
but it would be very much my first thing to check.
In principle, the ignition coil is designed to operate at around 7-8 volts,
which is what you typically get out of a 12V system while the starter draws its
100 or so amps. So at all other times, you need to have a ballast resistor in
series with the coil to drop the voltage and prevent burning it out. This
resistor should be shorted out by a relay during starting; if this is not
happening, the ballast resistor drops the coil voltage so much that you get
little or no spark.
To check this, hook up a voltmeter to the coil + terminal and watch it while
cranking; the voltage should change very little as the starter operates. If it
drops to 3-4 V, it’s time to trace the ballast bypass circuit, starting with
the #$%@& Lucas connectors…
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 11:31:06
Subject: Re: Starter problems
I’d start by checking the earth (ground) connections, Dave. There’s excessive
resistance somewhere in the circuit - just the oppposite of a short. The engine
earth strap may not be making perfect contact with the chassis, for instance;
the battery negative strap ditto, for another. A good, quick trouble-shooting
method is to put a voltmeter across various parts of the cirquit and operating
the starter; bad contact will show up as a significant (more than the odd volt)
voltage. I’d start by connecting the voltmeter between the engine block and the
chassis…
Just as a f’rinstance, I once had the exact same problem with Rover 75 ('51
model), which has the battery under the rear seat. There were so many bad
contact spots in the chassis itself that I had to put a continuous earth strap
from battery to engine.
Good hunting,
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 11:22:03
Subject: Re: XK 120 - hard to start
The engine firing when you let go of the start button is a typical symptom of
ballast resistor trouble. I’m not saying that’s necessarily what you have here,
but it would be very much my first thing to check.
In principle, the ignition coil is designed to operate at around 7-8 volts,
which is what you typically get out of a 12V system while the starter draws its
100 or so amps. So at all other times, you need to have a ballast resistor in
series with the coil to drop the voltage and prevent burning it out. This
resistor should be shorted out by a relay during starting; if this is not
happening, the ballast resistor drops the coil voltage so much that you get
little or no spark.
To check this, hook up a voltmeter to the coil + terminal and watch it while
cranking; the voltage should change very little as the starter operates. If it
drops to 3-4 V, it’s time to trace the ballast bypass circuit, starting with
the #$%@& Lucas connectors…
-
- Jan
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 96 17:09:18 PDT
Subject: Re[2]: Wood in Jaguars (fwd)
|
| Anyway, I occasionally rub a little yellow car wax (Meguiar’s) over
| the polyurethane coating which protects that beautiful veneer… Does
| this help?
|
| Michael Kenrick
|
A more general question: Do you guys periodically put anything on the wood?
I’m hesitant to mess with the wood, fearing that some chemical compound
might accidentally cause the surface finish/color to fade.
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 12:24:20
Subject: Re: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
Let me add my $0.016 ($A0.02) to this thread: this problem is basically
design-related. One possible cure is to change to one grade colder spark plugs;
this works on some cars. Inspect the face of one plug; if the insulator is
white, change to a plug with a higher heat rating (insulator protrudes less
into the combustion chamber). It should be milk chocolate coloured after a
normal speed run.
This doesn’t always work out; some combustion chambers have swirl centres where
coke collects very quickly and builds up deposits thick enough to glow. One way
to live with such engines (forget about decoking every 10,000 miles) is very
simple: give it full throttle as you switch off the ignition. The sudden inrush
of cold air helps stop the glowing, and the greater pumping power required
stops the engine rotating more quickly.
-
- Jan
From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 96 21:28:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
*** Resending note of 07/03/96 11:18
*** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FE21
*** INTERNET - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM *** IBMMAIL - AUIBMSPM ****
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Another naive question from someone who hasn’t done any woodwork:
Why not take a piece of wood, and just make a wooden dashboard out of it
with no veneer on the surface? Instead just put colored varnish on the surfac
to make it look nice. Is this not done because a regular wooden surface
would be too soft and subject to scratches and dents?
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Roger, the reason is that the really nice wood is the burl. This comes
from when a branch falls off a tree, and the spot where it came from
gets a ‘rounded’ look, much like a wart on our skin. Compared to the
overall size of the tree, there is a very small percentage of burl.
Since it looks so great, it is in high demand, and is therefore
expensive as hell.
Therefore, they use cheap junky plywood, and put a sliver of walnut
veneer on the outside. Looks great, and is 1/20th the cost of solid burl.
I personally love the chestnut burl they use in Rolls Royce/Bently. Much
lighter, like the biscuit trim in the jaguar. I’ll eventually buy some
myself and retrim my woodwork to match my biscuit connolly leather. Will
also do around all the switches and gear stick.
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #187
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X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest
jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 3 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 188
Re: Wood in Jaguars
Re: CO Analyzer / Original hoses
Re: Panther cars
Re: Panther cars
Re: Panther cars
Re: Starter problems
Re: XK 120 - hard to start
Re[2]: Wood in Jaguars (fwd)
Re: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
Re: Wood in Jaguars
Re: Wood in Jaguars
Re: Wood in Jaguars
Re: CO Analyzer / Original hoses
Re: Panther cars
Need advice with AC adjustment - 85 XJ-s
Re: Wood in Jaguars
Need advice with AC adjustment - 85 XJ-s
Re: Panther cars
Re: Starter problems
Re: XK 120 - hard to start
Re[2]: Wood in Jaguars (fwd)
Re: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 96 15:41:38 PDT
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Another naive question from someone who hasn’t done any woodwork:
Why not take a piece of wood, and just make a wooden dashboard out of it
with no veneer on the surface? Instead just put colored varnish on the surface
to make it look nice. Is this not done because a regular wooden surface
would be too soft and subject to scratches and dents?
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 20:01:04 GMT
Subject: Re: CO Analyzer / Original hoses
On 2 Jul 1996, Ed Scripps wrote:
One, the '66 Jag doesn’t have
any manifold CO test tubes but couldn’t I use the probe up the exhaust pipes?
Yes. If it has got twin exhaust system and twin carburettors you get the
benefit of one measuring point per carb.
Where could I get a CO analyzer?
Gunson makes some inexpensive ones. I’ve got the model with the analogue
instrument powered by the car battery. It works like a dream. I paid slightly
over $100 for it here in Norway.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 20:33:40 GMT
Subject: Re: Panther cars
On Tue, 2 Jul 1996, Peter Carpenter wrote:
On 1 Jul 1996, Alan Akeister wrote:
Panther Sports cars.
This one was called a Kallista. There seems to be a distant and VERY vague
memory of another model the Lima. And wasn’t there another company that
made something like the ‘J2’?
The J72, you mean? That was an SS100 lookalike made by, indeed, Panther
in the 70s. Running gear was from Jaguar.
All in all a pretty tasteless contraption, if you ask me. Although
overshadowed in terms of vulgarity by the US inventor of the “replicar”
idea, the Excalibur. A true “Liberace” among cars.
The Lima and the Kallista is more or less the same thing, methinks. Just
different years, engines and ownership, Panther being sold to Korean
interests. Although it is also of 30s “style”, its got a character more of
its own.
The ‘J2’ was a different animal altogether. A two seater sports made by
Allard around 1950. Quicker than the XK120, but the latter was the more
handsome. Not that the J2 is ugly, it is IMHO the prettiest of the
Allards, with its distinctive scuttle shape, aero screens and front cycle
wings.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 22:09:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Panther cars
<VERY vague
memory of another model the Lima. And wasn’t there another company that
made something like the ‘J2’? I am sure that there was one based on Jag
running gear…
As usual my massage has been of no help…>
Your mwmory is not totally gone. I remember seeing one based on Jag running
gear in a Jag repair shop in Costa Mesa, Ca. It did indeed look a little
like an SS100. Car was very light weight and must have been very, very fast.
Dave the Free man
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 22:09:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Panther cars
<VERY vague
memory of another model the Lima. And wasn’t there another company that
made something like the ‘J2’? I am sure that there was one based on Jag
running gear…
As usual my massage has been of no help…>
Your mwmory is not totally gone. I remember seeing one based on Jag running
gear in a Jag repair shop in Costa Mesa, Ca. It did indeed look a little
like an SS100. Car was very light weight and must have been very, very fast.
Dave the Free man
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 11:31:06
Subject: Re: Starter problems
I’d start by checking the earth (ground) connections, Dave. There’s excessive
resistance somewhere in the circuit - just the oppposite of a short. The engine
earth strap may not be making perfect contact with the chassis, for instance;
the battery negative strap ditto, for another. A good, quick trouble-shooting
method is to put a voltmeter across various parts of the cirquit and operating
the starter; bad contact will show up as a significant (more than the odd volt)
voltage. I’d start by connecting the voltmeter between the engine block and the
chassis…
Just as a f’rinstance, I once had the exact same problem with Rover 75 ('51
model), which has the battery under the rear seat. There were so many bad
contact spots in the chassis itself that I had to put a continuous earth strap
from battery to engine.
Good hunting,
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 11:22:03
Subject: Re: XK 120 - hard to start
The engine firing when you let go of the start button is a typical symptom of
ballast resistor trouble. I’m not saying that’s necessarily what you have here,
but it would be very much my first thing to check.
In principle, the ignition coil is designed to operate at around 7-8 volts,
which is what you typically get out of a 12V system while the starter draws its
100 or so amps. So at all other times, you need to have a ballast resistor in
series with the coil to drop the voltage and prevent burning it out. This
resistor should be shorted out by a relay during starting; if this is not
happening, the ballast resistor drops the coil voltage so much that you get
little or no spark.
To check this, hook up a voltmeter to the coil + terminal and watch it while
cranking; the voltage should change very little as the starter operates. If it
drops to 3-4 V, it’s time to trace the ballast bypass circuit, starting with
the #$%@& Lucas connectors…
-
- Jan
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 96 17:09:18 PDT
Subject: Re[2]: Wood in Jaguars (fwd)
|
| Anyway, I occasionally rub a little yellow car wax (Meguiar’s) over
| the polyurethane coating which protects that beautiful veneer… Does
| this help?
|
| Michael Kenrick
|
A more general question: Do you guys periodically put anything on the wood?
I’m hesitant to mess with the wood, fearing that some chemical compound
might accidentally cause the surface finish/color to fade.
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 12:24:20
Subject: Re: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
Let me add my $0.016 ($A0.02) to this thread: this problem is basically
design-related. One possible cure is to change to one grade colder spark plugs;
this works on some cars. Inspect the face of one plug; if the insulator is
white, change to a plug with a higher heat rating (insulator protrudes less
into the combustion chamber). It should be milk chocolate coloured after a
normal speed run.
This doesn’t always work out; some combustion chambers have swirl centres where
coke collects very quickly and builds up deposits thick enough to glow. One way
to live with such engines (forget about decoking every 10,000 miles) is very
simple: give it full throttle as you switch off the ignition. The sudden inrush
of cold air helps stop the glowing, and the greater pumping power required
stops the engine rotating more quickly.
-
- Jan
From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 96 21:28:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
*** Resending note of 07/03/96 11:18
*** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FE21
*** INTERNET - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM *** IBMMAIL - AUIBMSPM ****
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Another naive question from someone who hasn’t done any woodwork:
Why not take a piece of wood, and just make a wooden dashboard out of it
with no veneer on the surface? Instead just put colored varnish on the surfac
to make it look nice. Is this not done because a regular wooden surface
would be too soft and subject to scratches and dents?
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Roger, the reason is that the really nice wood is the burl. This comes
from when a branch falls off a tree, and the spot where it came from
gets a ‘rounded’ look, much like a wart on our skin. Compared to the
overall size of the tree, there is a very small percentage of burl.
Since it looks so great, it is in high demand, and is therefore
expensive as hell.
Therefore, they use cheap junky plywood, and put a sliver of walnut
veneer on the outside. Looks great, and is 1/20th the cost of solid burl.
I personally love the chestnut burl they use in Rolls Royce/Bently. Much
lighter, like the biscuit trim in the jaguar. I’ll eventually buy some
myself and retrim my woodwork to match my biscuit connolly leather. Will
also do around all the switches and gear stick.
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 96 15:41:38 PDT
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Another naive question from someone who hasn’t done any woodwork:
Why not take a piece of wood, and just make a wooden dashboard out of it
with no veneer on the surface? Instead just put colored varnish on the surface
to make it look nice. Is this not done because a regular wooden surface
would be too soft and subject to scratches and dents?
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 13:39:18
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Apart from the cost of walnut (and other sightly timbers), solid timber has
problems with changing humidity and temperature and tends to crack as it
expands and contracts at right angles to the fibres. Plywood is structurally
very superior to solid timber because the fibres run in more than one direction.
-
- Jan
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 20:01:04 GMT
Subject: Re: CO Analyzer / Original hoses
On 2 Jul 1996, Ed Scripps wrote:
One, the '66 Jag doesn’t have
any manifold CO test tubes but couldn’t I use the probe up the exhaust pipes?
Yes. If it has got twin exhaust system and twin carburettors you get the
benefit of one measuring point per carb.
Where could I get a CO analyzer?
Gunson makes some inexpensive ones. I’ve got the model with the analogue
instrument powered by the car battery. It works like a dream. I paid slightly
over $100 for it here in Norway.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 20:33:40 GMT
Subject: Re: Panther cars
On Tue, 2 Jul 1996, Peter Carpenter wrote:
On 1 Jul 1996, Alan Akeister wrote:
Panther Sports cars.
This one was called a Kallista. There seems to be a distant and VERY vague
memory of another model the Lima. And wasn’t there another company that
made something like the ‘J2’?
The J72, you mean? That was an SS100 lookalike made by, indeed, Panther
in the 70s. Running gear was from Jaguar.
All in all a pretty tasteless contraption, if you ask me. Although
overshadowed in terms of vulgarity by the US inventor of the “replicar”
idea, the Excalibur. A true “Liberace” among cars.
The Lima and the Kallista is more or less the same thing, methinks. Just
different years, engines and ownership, Panther being sold to Korean
interests. Although it is also of 30s “style”, its got a character more of
its own.
The ‘J2’ was a different animal altogether. A two seater sports made by
Allard around 1950. Quicker than the XK120, but the latter was the more
handsome. Not that the J2 is ugly, it is IMHO the prettiest of the
Allards, with its distinctive scuttle shape, aero screens and front cycle
wings.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 19:55:13 -0700
Subject: Need advice with AC adjustment - 85 XJ-s
Hoping one of you can provide me with advice about an AC air flow problem…
The AC in my 85 XJ-S works fine (just put in a new compressor, hoses and
receiver drier), and puts out a good amount of cold air. The problem is
that in the regular AC mode some of the air is being blown out through the
windshield vents as opposed to all of it coming out through the facia vents
or the footwell vents. The flow onot the windshield vents is also uneven,
the left (driver) windshield vent lets out a barely perceptible flow; the
right windshield vent lets out a large amount of air flow. I have also
noted that the right facia vent (adjacent to the door itself) puts out a
very weak air stream.
I hate to see all that “cool air” going onto one side of the windshield,
insted of onto the passanger/driver. Any ideas on what is causing this and
how to rectify it?
Thanks,
Rob W-M
85 XJ-S
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 13:39:18
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Apart from the cost of walnut (and other sightly timbers), solid timber has
problems with changing humidity and temperature and tends to crack as it
expands and contracts at right angles to the fibres. Plywood is structurally
very superior to solid timber because the fibres run in more than one direction.
-
- Jan
From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 19:55:13 -0700
Subject: Need advice with AC adjustment - 85 XJ-s
Hoping one of you can provide me with advice about an AC air flow problem…
The AC in my 85 XJ-S works fine (just put in a new compressor, hoses and
receiver drier), and puts out a good amount of cold air. The problem is
that in the regular AC mode some of the air is being blown out through the
windshield vents as opposed to all of it coming out through the facia vents
or the footwell vents. The flow onot the windshield vents is also uneven,
the left (driver) windshield vent lets out a barely perceptible flow; the
right windshield vent lets out a large amount of air flow. I have also
noted that the right facia vent (adjacent to the door itself) puts out a
very weak air stream.
I hate to see all that “cool air” going onto one side of the windshield,
insted of onto the passanger/driver. Any ideas on what is causing this and
how to rectify it?
Thanks,
Rob W-M
85 XJ-S
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 22:09:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Panther cars
<VERY vague
memory of another model the Lima. And wasn’t there another company that
made something like the ‘J2’? I am sure that there was one based on Jag
running gear…
As usual my massage has been of no help…>
Your mwmory is not totally gone. I remember seeing one based on Jag running
gear in a Jag repair shop in Costa Mesa, Ca. It did indeed look a little
like an SS100. Car was very light weight and must have been very, very fast.
Dave the Free man
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 11:31:06
Subject: Re: Starter problems
I’d start by checking the earth (ground) connections, Dave. There’s excessive
resistance somewhere in the circuit - just the oppposite of a short. The engine
earth strap may not be making perfect contact with the chassis, for instance;
the battery negative strap ditto, for another. A good, quick trouble-shooting
method is to put a voltmeter across various parts of the cirquit and operating
the starter; bad contact will show up as a significant (more than the odd volt)
voltage. I’d start by connecting the voltmeter between the engine block and the
chassis…
Just as a f’rinstance, I once had the exact same problem with Rover 75 ('51
model), which has the battery under the rear seat. There were so many bad
contact spots in the chassis itself that I had to put a continuous earth strap
from battery to engine.
Good hunting,
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 11:22:03
Subject: Re: XK 120 - hard to start
The engine firing when you let go of the start button is a typical symptom of
ballast resistor trouble. I’m not saying that’s necessarily what you have here,
but it would be very much my first thing to check.
In principle, the ignition coil is designed to operate at around 7-8 volts,
which is what you typically get out of a 12V system while the starter draws its
100 or so amps. So at all other times, you need to have a ballast resistor in
series with the coil to drop the voltage and prevent burning it out. This
resistor should be shorted out by a relay during starting; if this is not
happening, the ballast resistor drops the coil voltage so much that you get
little or no spark.
To check this, hook up a voltmeter to the coil + terminal and watch it while
cranking; the voltage should change very little as the starter operates. If it
drops to 3-4 V, it’s time to trace the ballast bypass circuit, starting with
the #$%@& Lucas connectors…
-
- Jan
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 96 17:09:18 PDT
Subject: Re[2]: Wood in Jaguars (fwd)
|
| Anyway, I occasionally rub a little yellow car wax (Meguiar’s) over
| the polyurethane coating which protects that beautiful veneer… Does
| this help?
|
| Michael Kenrick
|
A more general question: Do you guys periodically put anything on the wood?
I’m hesitant to mess with the wood, fearing that some chemical compound
might accidentally cause the surface finish/color to fade.
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 12:24:20
Subject: Re: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
Let me add my $0.016 ($A0.02) to this thread: this problem is basically
design-related. One possible cure is to change to one grade colder spark plugs;
this works on some cars. Inspect the face of one plug; if the insulator is
white, change to a plug with a higher heat rating (insulator protrudes less
into the combustion chamber). It should be milk chocolate coloured after a
normal speed run.
This doesn’t always work out; some combustion chambers have swirl centres where
coke collects very quickly and builds up deposits thick enough to glow. One way
to live with such engines (forget about decoking every 10,000 miles) is very
simple: give it full throttle as you switch off the ignition. The sudden inrush
of cold air helps stop the glowing, and the greater pumping power required
stops the engine rotating more quickly.
-
- Jan
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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 3 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 189
Re: Wood in Jaguars
Re: Wood in Jaguars
Re: CO Analyzer / Original hoses
Re: Panther cars
Re: Wood in Jaguars
Need advice with AC adjustment - 85 XJ-s
Re: Panther cars
Re: Starter problems
Re: XK 120 - hard to start
Re[2]: Wood in Jaguars (fwd)
Re: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
Re: Wood in Jaguars
Re: Wood in Jaguars
Re: CO Analyzer / Original hoses
Re: Panther cars
Mad Majordomo
Mad Majordomo
Re: Wood in Jaguars
Need advice with AC adjustment - 85 XJ-s
Re: Panther cars
Re: Starter problems
Re: XK 120 - hard to start
From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 96 21:28:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
*** Resending note of 07/03/96 11:18
*** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FE21
*** INTERNET - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM *** IBMMAIL - AUIBMSPM ****
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Another naive question from someone who hasn’t done any woodwork:
Why not take a piece of wood, and just make a wooden dashboard out of it
with no veneer on the surface? Instead just put colored varnish on the surfac
to make it look nice. Is this not done because a regular wooden surface
would be too soft and subject to scratches and dents?
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Roger, the reason is that the really nice wood is the burl. This comes
from when a branch falls off a tree, and the spot where it came from
gets a ‘rounded’ look, much like a wart on our skin. Compared to the
overall size of the tree, there is a very small percentage of burl.
Since it looks so great, it is in high demand, and is therefore
expensive as hell.
Therefore, they use cheap junky plywood, and put a sliver of walnut
veneer on the outside. Looks great, and is 1/20th the cost of solid burl.
I personally love the chestnut burl they use in Rolls Royce/Bently. Much
lighter, like the biscuit trim in the jaguar. I’ll eventually buy some
myself and retrim my woodwork to match my biscuit connolly leather. Will
also do around all the switches and gear stick.
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 96 15:41:38 PDT
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Another naive question from someone who hasn’t done any woodwork:
Why not take a piece of wood, and just make a wooden dashboard out of it
with no veneer on the surface? Instead just put colored varnish on the surface
to make it look nice. Is this not done because a regular wooden surface
would be too soft and subject to scratches and dents?
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 20:01:04 GMT
Subject: Re: CO Analyzer / Original hoses
On 2 Jul 1996, Ed Scripps wrote:
One, the '66 Jag doesn’t have
any manifold CO test tubes but couldn’t I use the probe up the exhaust pipes?
Yes. If it has got twin exhaust system and twin carburettors you get the
benefit of one measuring point per carb.
Where could I get a CO analyzer?
Gunson makes some inexpensive ones. I’ve got the model with the analogue
instrument powered by the car battery. It works like a dream. I paid slightly
over $100 for it here in Norway.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 20:33:40 GMT
Subject: Re: Panther cars
On Tue, 2 Jul 1996, Peter Carpenter wrote:
On 1 Jul 1996, Alan Akeister wrote:
Panther Sports cars.
This one was called a Kallista. There seems to be a distant and VERY vague
memory of another model the Lima. And wasn’t there another company that
made something like the ‘J2’?
The J72, you mean? That was an SS100 lookalike made by, indeed, Panther
in the 70s. Running gear was from Jaguar.
All in all a pretty tasteless contraption, if you ask me. Although
overshadowed in terms of vulgarity by the US inventor of the “replicar”
idea, the Excalibur. A true “Liberace” among cars.
The Lima and the Kallista is more or less the same thing, methinks. Just
different years, engines and ownership, Panther being sold to Korean
interests. Although it is also of 30s “style”, its got a character more of
its own.
The ‘J2’ was a different animal altogether. A two seater sports made by
Allard around 1950. Quicker than the XK120, but the latter was the more
handsome. Not that the J2 is ugly, it is IMHO the prettiest of the
Allards, with its distinctive scuttle shape, aero screens and front cycle
wings.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 13:39:18
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Apart from the cost of walnut (and other sightly timbers), solid timber has
problems with changing humidity and temperature and tends to crack as it
expands and contracts at right angles to the fibres. Plywood is structurally
very superior to solid timber because the fibres run in more than one direction.
-
- Jan
From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 19:55:13 -0700
Subject: Need advice with AC adjustment - 85 XJ-s
Hoping one of you can provide me with advice about an AC air flow problem…
The AC in my 85 XJ-S works fine (just put in a new compressor, hoses and
receiver drier), and puts out a good amount of cold air. The problem is
that in the regular AC mode some of the air is being blown out through the
windshield vents as opposed to all of it coming out through the facia vents
or the footwell vents. The flow onot the windshield vents is also uneven,
the left (driver) windshield vent lets out a barely perceptible flow; the
right windshield vent lets out a large amount of air flow. I have also
noted that the right facia vent (adjacent to the door itself) puts out a
very weak air stream.
I hate to see all that “cool air” going onto one side of the windshield,
insted of onto the passanger/driver. Any ideas on what is causing this and
how to rectify it?
Thanks,
Rob W-M
85 XJ-S
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 22:09:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Panther cars
<VERY vague
memory of another model the Lima. And wasn’t there another company that
made something like the ‘J2’? I am sure that there was one based on Jag
running gear…
As usual my massage has been of no help…>
Your mwmory is not totally gone. I remember seeing one based on Jag running
gear in a Jag repair shop in Costa Mesa, Ca. It did indeed look a little
like an SS100. Car was very light weight and must have been very, very fast.
Dave the Free man
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 11:31:06
Subject: Re: Starter problems
I’d start by checking the earth (ground) connections, Dave. There’s excessive
resistance somewhere in the circuit - just the oppposite of a short. The engine
earth strap may not be making perfect contact with the chassis, for instance;
the battery negative strap ditto, for another. A good, quick trouble-shooting
method is to put a voltmeter across various parts of the cirquit and operating
the starter; bad contact will show up as a significant (more than the odd volt)
voltage. I’d start by connecting the voltmeter between the engine block and the
chassis…
Just as a f’rinstance, I once had the exact same problem with Rover 75 ('51
model), which has the battery under the rear seat. There were so many bad
contact spots in the chassis itself that I had to put a continuous earth strap
from battery to engine.
Good hunting,
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 11:22:03
Subject: Re: XK 120 - hard to start
The engine firing when you let go of the start button is a typical symptom of
ballast resistor trouble. I’m not saying that’s necessarily what you have here,
but it would be very much my first thing to check.
In principle, the ignition coil is designed to operate at around 7-8 volts,
which is what you typically get out of a 12V system while the starter draws its
100 or so amps. So at all other times, you need to have a ballast resistor in
series with the coil to drop the voltage and prevent burning it out. This
resistor should be shorted out by a relay during starting; if this is not
happening, the ballast resistor drops the coil voltage so much that you get
little or no spark.
To check this, hook up a voltmeter to the coil + terminal and watch it while
cranking; the voltage should change very little as the starter operates. If it
drops to 3-4 V, it’s time to trace the ballast bypass circuit, starting with
the #$%@& Lucas connectors…
-
- Jan
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 96 17:09:18 PDT
Subject: Re[2]: Wood in Jaguars (fwd)
|
| Anyway, I occasionally rub a little yellow car wax (Meguiar’s) over
| the polyurethane coating which protects that beautiful veneer… Does
| this help?
|
| Michael Kenrick
|
A more general question: Do you guys periodically put anything on the wood?
I’m hesitant to mess with the wood, fearing that some chemical compound
might accidentally cause the surface finish/color to fade.
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 12:24:20
Subject: Re: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
Let me add my $0.016 ($A0.02) to this thread: this problem is basically
design-related. One possible cure is to change to one grade colder spark plugs;
this works on some cars. Inspect the face of one plug; if the insulator is
white, change to a plug with a higher heat rating (insulator protrudes less
into the combustion chamber). It should be milk chocolate coloured after a
normal speed run.
This doesn’t always work out; some combustion chambers have swirl centres where
coke collects very quickly and builds up deposits thick enough to glow. One way
to live with such engines (forget about decoking every 10,000 miles) is very
simple: give it full throttle as you switch off the ignition. The sudden inrush
of cold air helps stop the glowing, and the greater pumping power required
stops the engine rotating more quickly.
-
- Jan
From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 96 21:28:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
*** Resending note of 07/03/96 11:18
*** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FE21
*** INTERNET - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM *** IBMMAIL - AUIBMSPM ****
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Another naive question from someone who hasn’t done any woodwork:
Why not take a piece of wood, and just make a wooden dashboard out of it
with no veneer on the surface? Instead just put colored varnish on the surfac
to make it look nice. Is this not done because a regular wooden surface
would be too soft and subject to scratches and dents?
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Roger, the reason is that the really nice wood is the burl. This comes
from when a branch falls off a tree, and the spot where it came from
gets a ‘rounded’ look, much like a wart on our skin. Compared to the
overall size of the tree, there is a very small percentage of burl.
Since it looks so great, it is in high demand, and is therefore
expensive as hell.
Therefore, they use cheap junky plywood, and put a sliver of walnut
veneer on the outside. Looks great, and is 1/20th the cost of solid burl.
I personally love the chestnut burl they use in Rolls Royce/Bently. Much
lighter, like the biscuit trim in the jaguar. I’ll eventually buy some
myself and retrim my woodwork to match my biscuit connolly leather. Will
also do around all the switches and gear stick.
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 96 15:41:38 PDT
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Another naive question from someone who hasn’t done any woodwork:
Why not take a piece of wood, and just make a wooden dashboard out of it
with no veneer on the surface? Instead just put colored varnish on the surface
to make it look nice. Is this not done because a regular wooden surface
would be too soft and subject to scratches and dents?
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 20:01:04 GMT
Subject: Re: CO Analyzer / Original hoses
On 2 Jul 1996, Ed Scripps wrote:
One, the '66 Jag doesn’t have
any manifold CO test tubes but couldn’t I use the probe up the exhaust pipes?
Yes. If it has got twin exhaust system and twin carburettors you get the
benefit of one measuring point per carb.
Where could I get a CO analyzer?
Gunson makes some inexpensive ones. I’ve got the model with the analogue
instrument powered by the car battery. It works like a dream. I paid slightly
over $100 for it here in Norway.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 20:33:40 GMT
Subject: Re: Panther cars
On Tue, 2 Jul 1996, Peter Carpenter wrote:
On 1 Jul 1996, Alan Akeister wrote:
Panther Sports cars.
This one was called a Kallista. There seems to be a distant and VERY vague
memory of another model the Lima. And wasn’t there another company that
made something like the ‘J2’?
The J72, you mean? That was an SS100 lookalike made by, indeed, Panther
in the 70s. Running gear was from Jaguar.
All in all a pretty tasteless contraption, if you ask me. Although
overshadowed in terms of vulgarity by the US inventor of the “replicar”
idea, the Excalibur. A true “Liberace” among cars.
The Lima and the Kallista is more or less the same thing, methinks. Just
different years, engines and ownership, Panther being sold to Korean
interests. Although it is also of 30s “style”, its got a character more of
its own.
The ‘J2’ was a different animal altogether. A two seater sports made by
Allard around 1950. Quicker than the XK120, but the latter was the more
handsome. Not that the J2 is ugly, it is IMHO the prettiest of the
Allards, with its distinctive scuttle shape, aero screens and front cycle
wings.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 22:53:08 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Mad Majordomo
The major’s gone mad…again…forgetting that he’s already sent messages
out to us, &c, &c, &c…
Is there a cure? Can he get treatment?
Larry Lee
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 22:53:08 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Mad Majordomo
The major’s gone mad…again…forgetting that he’s already sent messages
out to us, &c, &c, &c…
Is there a cure? Can he get treatment?
Larry Lee
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 13:39:18
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Apart from the cost of walnut (and other sightly timbers), solid timber has
problems with changing humidity and temperature and tends to crack as it
expands and contracts at right angles to the fibres. Plywood is structurally
very superior to solid timber because the fibres run in more than one direction.
-
- Jan
From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 19:55:13 -0700
Subject: Need advice with AC adjustment - 85 XJ-s
Hoping one of you can provide me with advice about an AC air flow problem…
The AC in my 85 XJ-S works fine (just put in a new compressor, hoses and
receiver drier), and puts out a good amount of cold air. The problem is
that in the regular AC mode some of the air is being blown out through the
windshield vents as opposed to all of it coming out through the facia vents
or the footwell vents. The flow onot the windshield vents is also uneven,
the left (driver) windshield vent lets out a barely perceptible flow; the
right windshield vent lets out a large amount of air flow. I have also
noted that the right facia vent (adjacent to the door itself) puts out a
very weak air stream.
I hate to see all that “cool air” going onto one side of the windshield,
insted of onto the passanger/driver. Any ideas on what is causing this and
how to rectify it?
Thanks,
Rob W-M
85 XJ-S
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 22:09:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Panther cars
<VERY vague
memory of another model the Lima. And wasn’t there another company that
made something like the ‘J2’? I am sure that there was one based on Jag
running gear…
As usual my massage has been of no help…>
Your mwmory is not totally gone. I remember seeing one based on Jag running
gear in a Jag repair shop in Costa Mesa, Ca. It did indeed look a little
like an SS100. Car was very light weight and must have been very, very fast.
Dave the Free man
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 11:31:06
Subject: Re: Starter problems
I’d start by checking the earth (ground) connections, Dave. There’s excessive
resistance somewhere in the circuit - just the oppposite of a short. The engine
earth strap may not be making perfect contact with the chassis, for instance;
the battery negative strap ditto, for another. A good, quick trouble-shooting
method is to put a voltmeter across various parts of the cirquit and operating
the starter; bad contact will show up as a significant (more than the odd volt)
voltage. I’d start by connecting the voltmeter between the engine block and the
chassis…
Just as a f’rinstance, I once had the exact same problem with Rover 75 ('51
model), which has the battery under the rear seat. There were so many bad
contact spots in the chassis itself that I had to put a continuous earth strap
from battery to engine.
Good hunting,
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 11:22:03
Subject: Re: XK 120 - hard to start
The engine firing when you let go of the start button is a typical symptom of
ballast resistor trouble. I’m not saying that’s necessarily what you have here,
but it would be very much my first thing to check.
In principle, the ignition coil is designed to operate at around 7-8 volts,
which is what you typically get out of a 12V system while the starter draws its
100 or so amps. So at all other times, you need to have a ballast resistor in
series with the coil to drop the voltage and prevent burning it out. This
resistor should be shorted out by a relay during starting; if this is not
happening, the ballast resistor drops the coil voltage so much that you get
little or no spark.
To check this, hook up a voltmeter to the coil + terminal and watch it while
cranking; the voltage should change very little as the starter operates. If it
drops to 3-4 V, it’s time to trace the ballast bypass circuit, starting with
the #$%@& Lucas connectors…
-
- Jan
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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 3 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 192
Re: CO Analyzer / Original hoses
Re: Panther cars
The list has gone haywire again
Re: XK 120 - hard to start
re: XK 120 - hard to start
wood veneers and cracks
Mad Majordomo
Re: Wood in Jaguars
Need advice with AC adjustment - 85 XJ-s
Re: Panther cars
Re: Starter problems
Re: XK 120 - hard to start
Re[2]: Wood in Jaguars (fwd)
Re: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
Re: Wood in Jaguars
Re: Wood in Jaguars
Re: CO Analyzer / Original hoses
Re: Panther cars
RE: The list has gone haywire again
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 20:01:04 GMT
Subject: Re: CO Analyzer / Original hoses
On 2 Jul 1996, Ed Scripps wrote:
One, the '66 Jag doesn’t have
any manifold CO test tubes but couldn’t I use the probe up the exhaust pipes?
Yes. If it has got twin exhaust system and twin carburettors you get the
benefit of one measuring point per carb.
Where could I get a CO analyzer?
Gunson makes some inexpensive ones. I’ve got the model with the analogue
instrument powered by the car battery. It works like a dream. I paid slightly
over $100 for it here in Norway.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 20:33:40 GMT
Subject: Re: Panther cars
On Tue, 2 Jul 1996, Peter Carpenter wrote:
On 1 Jul 1996, Alan Akeister wrote:
Panther Sports cars.
This one was called a Kallista. There seems to be a distant and VERY vague
memory of another model the Lima. And wasn’t there another company that
made something like the ‘J2’?
The J72, you mean? That was an SS100 lookalike made by, indeed, Panther
in the 70s. Running gear was from Jaguar.
All in all a pretty tasteless contraption, if you ask me. Although
overshadowed in terms of vulgarity by the US inventor of the “replicar”
idea, the Excalibur. A true “Liberace” among cars.
The Lima and the Kallista is more or less the same thing, methinks. Just
different years, engines and ownership, Panther being sold to Korean
interests. Although it is also of 30s “style”, its got a character more of
its own.
The ‘J2’ was a different animal altogether. A two seater sports made by
Allard around 1950. Quicker than the XK120, but the latter was the more
handsome. Not that the J2 is ugly, it is IMHO the prettiest of the
Allards, with its distinctive scuttle shape, aero screens and front cycle
wings.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 07:13:24 +0200
Subject: The list has gone haywire again
Sorry folks, seems like we are experiencing yet another
bumbling Major Domo. We are trying to locate the source
of the problem. Please bear with us for a while longer.
Nick (admin with premature gray hair)
From: REMANKING@aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 00:51:15 -0400
Subject: Re: XK 120 - hard to start
In a message dated 96-07-02 22:15:39 EDT, Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au (Jan
Wikstroem) writes:
<< The engine firing when you let go of the start button is a typical symptom
of
ballast resistor trouble. I’m not saying that’s necessarily what you have
here,
but it would be very much my first thing to check.
In principle, the ignition coil is designed to operate at around 7-8 volts,
which is what you typically get out of a 12V system while the starter draws
its
100 or so amps. So at all other times, you need to have a ballast resistor
in
series with the coil to drop the voltage and prevent burning it out. This
resistor should be shorted out by a relay during starting; if this is not
happening, the ballast resistor drops the coil voltage so much that you get
little or no spark.
To check this, hook up a voltmeter to the coil + terminal and watch it while
cranking; the voltage should change very little as the starter operates. If
it
drops to 3-4 V, it’s time to trace the ballast bypass circuit, starting with
the #$%@& Lucas connectors…
- Jan
This is correct especially on Chryslers. However XK120 do not use a ballast
resistor. Most early Lucas coils and all of the Lucas “Sport” coils are
designed not to use a ballast resitor.
From: pbrown@sbnsw.com.au
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 96 0:04:53 ���
Subject: re: XK 120 - hard to start
Larry,
You can always retain your old mechanical ignition system to use in case the
new-fangled gadget falls over.
I generally keep a can of ether spray in case any of my cars won’t start; a
shot of that down the air cleaner will get it going every time.
As for TV interference from copper cables, surely you turn the set off while
you’re driving!
Regards
Peter Brown
Lobotomised SII Daimler VDP
Triumph TC2500
John Elmgreen 100353.1733@CompuServe.COM Wrote:
|
|
| ---------- Forwarded Message ----------
|
| From: Larry Hodson, INTERNET:lwh3419@en.com
| TO: John Elmgreen, 100353,1733
| DATE: 30-6-96 11:00 PM
|
| RE: Re: XK group
|
| Sender: lwh3419@en.com
| Received: from en.com (en.com [204.89.181.1]) by
| dub-img-6.compuserve.com (8.6.10/5.950515)
| id WAA09185; Sun, 30 Jun 1996 22:58:53 -0400
| Received: from lwh3419.en.com (p14-ts3.en.net
| [207.78.11.45]) by en.com (8.7.4/8.7.4) with SMTP id
| XAA02783 for 100353.1733@CompuServe.COM; Sun, 30 Jun
| 1996 23:01:17 -0400 (EDT)
| Date: Sun, 30 Jun 1996 23:01:17 -0400 (EDT)
| Message-Id: 199607010301.XAA02783@en.com
| X-Sender: lwh3419@en.com (Unverified)
| X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 1.5.2
| Mime-Version: 1.0
| Content-Type: text/plain; charset=“us-ascii”
| To: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@CompuServe.COM
| From: Larry Hodson lwh3419@en.com
| Subject: Re: XK group
|
| At 08:13 AM 5/28/96 EDT, you wrote:
| >Dear Larry & Denise, I saw from the WWW site that you
| are the owners of an
| >XK120. If you want to join our little group of XK owners
| who swap email re the
| >cars, let me know. Regards, John Elmgreen XK120, XK150
| >
| >Dear John
|
| I thought you or one in your group could help me on this
| problem.
| I’ve owned my '54 120 for about 14 years. The whole time
| I’ve had
| it I’ve always had trouble starting it after it has set
| for more than
| 3 or 4 days. I’ve tuned it by the book and have others
| check it out
| but to no avail. It seems that if I release the starter
| button at just
| the right time( top of the piston stroke) it’ll catch and
| run. Other-
| wise it’s a slow grind untill the battery runs down and I
| get the
| jumper cables out. It seems as if all the battery amps are
| going to
| the starter motor and not to the plugs.
|
| I’ve tried a new coil but that didn’t help. The batteries
| are good.
| I thought I try another set of plug wires. Perhaps Packard
| 440 solid
| copper wires although I heard they can cause radio and TV
| inter-
| ferance. My present wires are the everyday ones with
| graphide or
| whatever centers. I’ve got the stock distributor and point
| setup
| in use but I was wondering if I should put in an
| electronic one.
| My buddy Joe Burke up near Boston has a '53 120 Coupe and
| he was
| able to start his car in below zero weather when he lived
| in Clev-
| land. Other people tell me not to install it because if it
| fails
| then you are stuck for sure out in the middle of nowhere,
| wheras
| if your points screw up just reset them and you are back
| on the
| road. I would prefer to cure this without installing
| electronic
| ignition if possible.
|
| If anyone has any ideas please drop me a line.
|
| Larry Hodson
| lwh3419@en.com
|
|
|
From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 21:09:00 -0700
Subject: wood veneers and cracks
I might as well add my two bits of speculation on the cracking veneer
debate…
The wood trim on my 85 XJ-S appears to be cracking. However upon closer
inspection I can tell that it is not the veneer that is cracking, it is the
polyurethane coating on top that is cracking. The reason?.. shrinkage and
differential contraction/expansion; as the volatile compounds in the
polyurethane evaporate over time the coating shrinks, particularly if it is
thick in order to give it that nice deep shine… Extremes of heating,
cooling and humidity really help this process along nicely by mechanically
contracting and expanding that nice, thick, shiny layer of polyurethane (or
lacquer, or varnish)!!! In essence what is happening is that you have this
sandwich composed of three layers (actually more, but they can be lumped)of
different materials with differing expansion properties. The underlying
layer is plywood (actually a sub-sandwich itself; non-comestible variety),
the middle layers is the actual veneer (very thin and tightly glued to the
plywood), and the polyurethane. The plywood is porous and thick and the
veneer, because it is well glued to the plywood, might as well be part of
it. Both of these layers are subject to much less contraction/expansion
than the thinner, more flexible, more dense, polyurethane. The result is
the poyurethane shrinks and expands at a much faster rate than the
underlying part of the wood sandwich. In addition, over time and without
any mechanical shrinking/expanding the polyurethane will dry as the
volatiles in it evaporate. This is a slow process, but… give it enough
time, and/or the right conditions and you became the proud owner of genuine,
premium, jguar cracked trim.
One indication of this process is the fact that most of these cracks will
be perpendicular to the long axis of the piece of wood; the long axis is the
direction in which you’ll get the greatest amount of shrinkage. Once the
shrinkage crack develops, the UV component of light gets through it and
begins to darken the wood itself. In addition the crak now provides direct
acces to the wood for air and any moisture that it may have. Over time the
veneer layer under the polyurethane crack itself drys, weakens, and perhaps
lifts off the plywood onto which it is glued, and the crack travels through
the vener and into the wood.
Most of the problems with the wood in my car are of this nature. None of the
problems appear to be related to the veneer separting from the underlying
plywood “base”. A few of the problem spots are related to the plywood
separating along its own layers (parallel to the face of the plywood); this
is definetely a quality problem. Good old jag used poor grade plywood;
period. One additional problem spot in my case is related to the butt joint
(no jokes please) between two adjacent pieces of veneer on the same trim
piece, separating. This problem appears to be due to distortion of the
plywood (its got a slight curl or curvature)onto which the veneer is glued.
Again this is also a quality problem; not weith the veneer but with the
underlying plywood.
So, what to do? I am opting for re-finishing all of my trim pieces. Once I
get the new polyurethane coat on then I intend to follow the practice
described by one of the other commenters (?) on this subject: occasionally
apply a light coating of furniture grade oil onto the wood and or follow it
with a light wax. Polyurethane has porosity; applying the oil will slow the
evaporation of the volatile compounds in it. A wax coating will seal the
pores and will prevent the evaporation of the volatiles in the polyurethane
or the furniture oil that does manage to soak in.
Hope I haven’t bored all of you…
Rob W-M
85 XJ-S
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 22:53:08 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Mad Majordomo
The major’s gone mad…again…forgetting that he’s already sent messages
out to us, &c, &c, &c…
Is there a cure? Can he get treatment?
Larry Lee
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 13:39:18
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Apart from the cost of walnut (and other sightly timbers), solid timber has
problems with changing humidity and temperature and tends to crack as it
expands and contracts at right angles to the fibres. Plywood is structurally
very superior to solid timber because the fibres run in more than one direction.
-
- Jan
From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 19:55:13 -0700
Subject: Need advice with AC adjustment - 85 XJ-s
Hoping one of you can provide me with advice about an AC air flow problem…
The AC in my 85 XJ-S works fine (just put in a new compressor, hoses and
receiver drier), and puts out a good amount of cold air. The problem is
that in the regular AC mode some of the air is being blown out through the
windshield vents as opposed to all of it coming out through the facia vents
or the footwell vents. The flow onot the windshield vents is also uneven,
the left (driver) windshield vent lets out a barely perceptible flow; the
right windshield vent lets out a large amount of air flow. I have also
noted that the right facia vent (adjacent to the door itself) puts out a
very weak air stream.
I hate to see all that “cool air” going onto one side of the windshield,
insted of onto the passanger/driver. Any ideas on what is causing this and
how to rectify it?
Thanks,
Rob W-M
85 XJ-S
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 22:09:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Panther cars
<VERY vague
memory of another model the Lima. And wasn’t there another company that
made something like the ‘J2’? I am sure that there was one based on Jag
running gear…
As usual my massage has been of no help…>
Your mwmory is not totally gone. I remember seeing one based on Jag running
gear in a Jag repair shop in Costa Mesa, Ca. It did indeed look a little
like an SS100. Car was very light weight and must have been very, very fast.
Dave the Free man
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 11:31:06
Subject: Re: Starter problems
I’d start by checking the earth (ground) connections, Dave. There’s excessive
resistance somewhere in the circuit - just the oppposite of a short. The engine
earth strap may not be making perfect contact with the chassis, for instance;
the battery negative strap ditto, for another. A good, quick trouble-shooting
method is to put a voltmeter across various parts of the cirquit and operating
the starter; bad contact will show up as a significant (more than the odd volt)
voltage. I’d start by connecting the voltmeter between the engine block and the
chassis…
Just as a f’rinstance, I once had the exact same problem with Rover 75 ('51
model), which has the battery under the rear seat. There were so many bad
contact spots in the chassis itself that I had to put a continuous earth strap
from battery to engine.
Good hunting,
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 11:22:03
Subject: Re: XK 120 - hard to start
The engine firing when you let go of the start button is a typical symptom of
ballast resistor trouble. I’m not saying that’s necessarily what you have here,
but it would be very much my first thing to check.
In principle, the ignition coil is designed to operate at around 7-8 volts,
which is what you typically get out of a 12V system while the starter draws its
100 or so amps. So at all other times, you need to have a ballast resistor in
series with the coil to drop the voltage and prevent burning it out. This
resistor should be shorted out by a relay during starting; if this is not
happening, the ballast resistor drops the coil voltage so much that you get
little or no spark.
To check this, hook up a voltmeter to the coil + terminal and watch it while
cranking; the voltage should change very little as the starter operates. If it
drops to 3-4 V, it’s time to trace the ballast bypass circuit, starting with
the #$%@& Lucas connectors…
-
- Jan
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 96 17:09:18 PDT
Subject: Re[2]: Wood in Jaguars (fwd)
|
| Anyway, I occasionally rub a little yellow car wax (Meguiar’s) over
| the polyurethane coating which protects that beautiful veneer… Does
| this help?
|
| Michael Kenrick
|
A more general question: Do you guys periodically put anything on the wood?
I’m hesitant to mess with the wood, fearing that some chemical compound
might accidentally cause the surface finish/color to fade.
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 12:24:20
Subject: Re: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
Let me add my $0.016 ($A0.02) to this thread: this problem is basically
design-related. One possible cure is to change to one grade colder spark plugs;
this works on some cars. Inspect the face of one plug; if the insulator is
white, change to a plug with a higher heat rating (insulator protrudes less
into the combustion chamber). It should be milk chocolate coloured after a
normal speed run.
This doesn’t always work out; some combustion chambers have swirl centres where
coke collects very quickly and builds up deposits thick enough to glow. One way
to live with such engines (forget about decoking every 10,000 miles) is very
simple: give it full throttle as you switch off the ignition. The sudden inrush
of cold air helps stop the glowing, and the greater pumping power required
stops the engine rotating more quickly.
-
- Jan
From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 96 21:28:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
*** Resending note of 07/03/96 11:18
*** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FE21
*** INTERNET - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM *** IBMMAIL - AUIBMSPM ****
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Another naive question from someone who hasn’t done any woodwork:
Why not take a piece of wood, and just make a wooden dashboard out of it
with no veneer on the surface? Instead just put colored varnish on the surfac
to make it look nice. Is this not done because a regular wooden surface
would be too soft and subject to scratches and dents?
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Roger, the reason is that the really nice wood is the burl. This comes
from when a branch falls off a tree, and the spot where it came from
gets a ‘rounded’ look, much like a wart on our skin. Compared to the
overall size of the tree, there is a very small percentage of burl.
Since it looks so great, it is in high demand, and is therefore
expensive as hell.
Therefore, they use cheap junky plywood, and put a sliver of walnut
veneer on the outside. Looks great, and is 1/20th the cost of solid burl.
I personally love the chestnut burl they use in Rolls Royce/Bently. Much
lighter, like the biscuit trim in the jaguar. I’ll eventually buy some
myself and retrim my woodwork to match my biscuit connolly leather. Will
also do around all the switches and gear stick.
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 96 15:41:38 PDT
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Another naive question from someone who hasn’t done any woodwork:
Why not take a piece of wood, and just make a wooden dashboard out of it
with no veneer on the surface? Instead just put colored varnish on the surface
to make it look nice. Is this not done because a regular wooden surface
would be too soft and subject to scratches and dents?
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 20:01:04 GMT
Subject: Re: CO Analyzer / Original hoses
On 2 Jul 1996, Ed Scripps wrote:
One, the '66 Jag doesn’t have
any manifold CO test tubes but couldn’t I use the probe up the exhaust pipes?
Yes. If it has got twin exhaust system and twin carburettors you get the
benefit of one measuring point per carb.
Where could I get a CO analyzer?
Gunson makes some inexpensive ones. I’ve got the model with the analogue
instrument powered by the car battery. It works like a dream. I paid slightly
over $100 for it here in Norway.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 20:33:40 GMT
Subject: Re: Panther cars
On Tue, 2 Jul 1996, Peter Carpenter wrote:
On 1 Jul 1996, Alan Akeister wrote:
Panther Sports cars.
This one was called a Kallista. There seems to be a distant and VERY vague
memory of another model the Lima. And wasn’t there another company that
made something like the ‘J2’?
The J72, you mean? That was an SS100 lookalike made by, indeed, Panther
in the 70s. Running gear was from Jaguar.
All in all a pretty tasteless contraption, if you ask me. Although
overshadowed in terms of vulgarity by the US inventor of the “replicar”
idea, the Excalibur. A true “Liberace” among cars.
The Lima and the Kallista is more or less the same thing, methinks. Just
different years, engines and ownership, Panther being sold to Korean
interests. Although it is also of 30s “style”, its got a character more of
its own.
The ‘J2’ was a different animal altogether. A two seater sports made by
Allard around 1950. Quicker than the XK120, but the latter was the more
handsome. Not that the J2 is ugly, it is IMHO the prettiest of the
Allards, with its distinctive scuttle shape, aero screens and front cycle
wings.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 22:16:44 -0700
Subject: RE: The list has gone haywire again
Sooooo… Now would probably be a good time for everyone to make =
multiple postings and flood the mailboxes of the hapless people that are =
not near their computer at the moment.
Just kidding of course!
From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 1996 10:13 PM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: The list has gone haywire again
Sorry folks, seems like we are experiencing yet another
bumbling Major Domo. We are trying to locate the source
of the problem. Please bear with us for a while longer.
Nick (admin with premature gray hair)
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #192
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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 3 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 193
RE: The list has gone haywire again
The list has gone haywire again
Re: XK 120 - hard to start
re: XK 120 - hard to start
wood veneers and cracks
Mad Majordomo
Re: Wood in Jaguars
Need advice with AC adjustment - 85 XJ-s
Re: Panther cars
Re: Starter problems
Re: XK 120 - hard to start
Re[2]: Wood in Jaguars (fwd)
Re: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
Re: Wood in Jaguars
Re: Wood in Jaguars
Re: CO Analyzer / Original hoses
Re: Panther cars
RE: The list has gone haywire again
The list has gone haywire again
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 22:16:44 -0700
Subject: RE: The list has gone haywire again
Sooooo… Now would probably be a good time for everyone to make =
multiple postings and flood the mailboxes of the hapless people that are =
not near their computer at the moment.
Just kidding of course!
From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 1996 10:13 PM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: The list has gone haywire again
Sorry folks, seems like we are experiencing yet another
bumbling Major Domo. We are trying to locate the source
of the problem. Please bear with us for a while longer.
Nick (admin with premature gray hair)
From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 07:13:24 +0200
Subject: The list has gone haywire again
Sorry folks, seems like we are experiencing yet another
bumbling Major Domo. We are trying to locate the source
of the problem. Please bear with us for a while longer.
Nick (admin with premature gray hair)
From: REMANKING@aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 00:51:15 -0400
Subject: Re: XK 120 - hard to start
In a message dated 96-07-02 22:15:39 EDT, Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au (Jan
Wikstroem) writes:
<< The engine firing when you let go of the start button is a typical symptom
of
ballast resistor trouble. I’m not saying that’s necessarily what you have
here,
but it would be very much my first thing to check.
In principle, the ignition coil is designed to operate at around 7-8 volts,
which is what you typically get out of a 12V system while the starter draws
its
100 or so amps. So at all other times, you need to have a ballast resistor
in
series with the coil to drop the voltage and prevent burning it out. This
resistor should be shorted out by a relay during starting; if this is not
happening, the ballast resistor drops the coil voltage so much that you get
little or no spark.
To check this, hook up a voltmeter to the coil + terminal and watch it while
cranking; the voltage should change very little as the starter operates. If
it
drops to 3-4 V, it’s time to trace the ballast bypass circuit, starting with
the #$%@& Lucas connectors…
- Jan
This is correct especially on Chryslers. However XK120 do not use a ballast
resistor. Most early Lucas coils and all of the Lucas “Sport” coils are
designed not to use a ballast resitor.
From: pbrown@sbnsw.com.au
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 96 0:04:53 ���
Subject: re: XK 120 - hard to start
Larry,
You can always retain your old mechanical ignition system to use in case the
new-fangled gadget falls over.
I generally keep a can of ether spray in case any of my cars won’t start; a
shot of that down the air cleaner will get it going every time.
As for TV interference from copper cables, surely you turn the set off while
you’re driving!
Regards
Peter Brown
Lobotomised SII Daimler VDP
Triumph TC2500
John Elmgreen 100353.1733@CompuServe.COM Wrote:
|
|
| ---------- Forwarded Message ----------
|
| From: Larry Hodson, INTERNET:lwh3419@en.com
| TO: John Elmgreen, 100353,1733
| DATE: 30-6-96 11:00 PM
|
| RE: Re: XK group
|
| Sender: lwh3419@en.com
| Received: from en.com (en.com [204.89.181.1]) by
| dub-img-6.compuserve.com (8.6.10/5.950515)
| id WAA09185; Sun, 30 Jun 1996 22:58:53 -0400
| Received: from lwh3419.en.com (p14-ts3.en.net
| [207.78.11.45]) by en.com (8.7.4/8.7.4) with SMTP id
| XAA02783 for 100353.1733@CompuServe.COM; Sun, 30 Jun
| 1996 23:01:17 -0400 (EDT)
| Date: Sun, 30 Jun 1996 23:01:17 -0400 (EDT)
| Message-Id: 199607010301.XAA02783@en.com
| X-Sender: lwh3419@en.com (Unverified)
| X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 1.5.2
| Mime-Version: 1.0
| Content-Type: text/plain; charset=“us-ascii”
| To: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@CompuServe.COM
| From: Larry Hodson lwh3419@en.com
| Subject: Re: XK group
|
| At 08:13 AM 5/28/96 EDT, you wrote:
| >Dear Larry & Denise, I saw from the WWW site that you
| are the owners of an
| >XK120. If you want to join our little group of XK owners
| who swap email re the
| >cars, let me know. Regards, John Elmgreen XK120, XK150
| >
| >Dear John
|
| I thought you or one in your group could help me on this
| problem.
| I’ve owned my '54 120 for about 14 years. The whole time
| I’ve had
| it I’ve always had trouble starting it after it has set
| for more than
| 3 or 4 days. I’ve tuned it by the book and have others
| check it out
| but to no avail. It seems that if I release the starter
| button at just
| the right time( top of the piston stroke) it’ll catch and
| run. Other-
| wise it’s a slow grind untill the battery runs down and I
| get the
| jumper cables out. It seems as if all the battery amps are
| going to
| the starter motor and not to the plugs.
|
| I’ve tried a new coil but that didn’t help. The batteries
| are good.
| I thought I try another set of plug wires. Perhaps Packard
| 440 solid
| copper wires although I heard they can cause radio and TV
| inter-
| ferance. My present wires are the everyday ones with
| graphide or
| whatever centers. I’ve got the stock distributor and point
| setup
| in use but I was wondering if I should put in an
| electronic one.
| My buddy Joe Burke up near Boston has a '53 120 Coupe and
| he was
| able to start his car in below zero weather when he lived
| in Clev-
| land. Other people tell me not to install it because if it
| fails
| then you are stuck for sure out in the middle of nowhere,
| wheras
| if your points screw up just reset them and you are back
| on the
| road. I would prefer to cure this without installing
| electronic
| ignition if possible.
|
| If anyone has any ideas please drop me a line.
|
| Larry Hodson
| lwh3419@en.com
|
|
|
From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 21:09:00 -0700
Subject: wood veneers and cracks
I might as well add my two bits of speculation on the cracking veneer
debate…
The wood trim on my 85 XJ-S appears to be cracking. However upon closer
inspection I can tell that it is not the veneer that is cracking, it is the
polyurethane coating on top that is cracking. The reason?.. shrinkage and
differential contraction/expansion; as the volatile compounds in the
polyurethane evaporate over time the coating shrinks, particularly if it is
thick in order to give it that nice deep shine… Extremes of heating,
cooling and humidity really help this process along nicely by mechanically
contracting and expanding that nice, thick, shiny layer of polyurethane (or
lacquer, or varnish)!!! In essence what is happening is that you have this
sandwich composed of three layers (actually more, but they can be lumped)of
different materials with differing expansion properties. The underlying
layer is plywood (actually a sub-sandwich itself; non-comestible variety),
the middle layers is the actual veneer (very thin and tightly glued to the
plywood), and the polyurethane. The plywood is porous and thick and the
veneer, because it is well glued to the plywood, might as well be part of
it. Both of these layers are subject to much less contraction/expansion
than the thinner, more flexible, more dense, polyurethane. The result is
the poyurethane shrinks and expands at a much faster rate than the
underlying part of the wood sandwich. In addition, over time and without
any mechanical shrinking/expanding the polyurethane will dry as the
volatiles in it evaporate. This is a slow process, but… give it enough
time, and/or the right conditions and you became the proud owner of genuine,
premium, jguar cracked trim.
One indication of this process is the fact that most of these cracks will
be perpendicular to the long axis of the piece of wood; the long axis is the
direction in which you’ll get the greatest amount of shrinkage. Once the
shrinkage crack develops, the UV component of light gets through it and
begins to darken the wood itself. In addition the crak now provides direct
acces to the wood for air and any moisture that it may have. Over time the
veneer layer under the polyurethane crack itself drys, weakens, and perhaps
lifts off the plywood onto which it is glued, and the crack travels through
the vener and into the wood.
Most of the problems with the wood in my car are of this nature. None of the
problems appear to be related to the veneer separting from the underlying
plywood “base”. A few of the problem spots are related to the plywood
separating along its own layers (parallel to the face of the plywood); this
is definetely a quality problem. Good old jag used poor grade plywood;
period. One additional problem spot in my case is related to the butt joint
(no jokes please) between two adjacent pieces of veneer on the same trim
piece, separating. This problem appears to be due to distortion of the
plywood (its got a slight curl or curvature)onto which the veneer is glued.
Again this is also a quality problem; not weith the veneer but with the
underlying plywood.
So, what to do? I am opting for re-finishing all of my trim pieces. Once I
get the new polyurethane coat on then I intend to follow the practice
described by one of the other commenters (?) on this subject: occasionally
apply a light coating of furniture grade oil onto the wood and or follow it
with a light wax. Polyurethane has porosity; applying the oil will slow the
evaporation of the volatile compounds in it. A wax coating will seal the
pores and will prevent the evaporation of the volatiles in the polyurethane
or the furniture oil that does manage to soak in.
Hope I haven’t bored all of you…
Rob W-M
85 XJ-S
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 22:53:08 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Mad Majordomo
The major’s gone mad…again…forgetting that he’s already sent messages
out to us, &c, &c, &c…
Is there a cure? Can he get treatment?
Larry Lee
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 13:39:18
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Apart from the cost of walnut (and other sightly timbers), solid timber has
problems with changing humidity and temperature and tends to crack as it
expands and contracts at right angles to the fibres. Plywood is structurally
very superior to solid timber because the fibres run in more than one direction.
-
- Jan
From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 19:55:13 -0700
Subject: Need advice with AC adjustment - 85 XJ-s
Hoping one of you can provide me with advice about an AC air flow problem…
The AC in my 85 XJ-S works fine (just put in a new compressor, hoses and
receiver drier), and puts out a good amount of cold air. The problem is
that in the regular AC mode some of the air is being blown out through the
windshield vents as opposed to all of it coming out through the facia vents
or the footwell vents. The flow onot the windshield vents is also uneven,
the left (driver) windshield vent lets out a barely perceptible flow; the
right windshield vent lets out a large amount of air flow. I have also
noted that the right facia vent (adjacent to the door itself) puts out a
very weak air stream.
I hate to see all that “cool air” going onto one side of the windshield,
insted of onto the passanger/driver. Any ideas on what is causing this and
how to rectify it?
Thanks,
Rob W-M
85 XJ-S
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 22:09:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Panther cars
<VERY vague
memory of another model the Lima. And wasn’t there another company that
made something like the ‘J2’? I am sure that there was one based on Jag
running gear…
As usual my massage has been of no help…>
Your mwmory is not totally gone. I remember seeing one based on Jag running
gear in a Jag repair shop in Costa Mesa, Ca. It did indeed look a little
like an SS100. Car was very light weight and must have been very, very fast.
Dave the Free man
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 11:31:06
Subject: Re: Starter problems
I’d start by checking the earth (ground) connections, Dave. There’s excessive
resistance somewhere in the circuit - just the oppposite of a short. The engine
earth strap may not be making perfect contact with the chassis, for instance;
the battery negative strap ditto, for another. A good, quick trouble-shooting
method is to put a voltmeter across various parts of the cirquit and operating
the starter; bad contact will show up as a significant (more than the odd volt)
voltage. I’d start by connecting the voltmeter between the engine block and the
chassis…
Just as a f’rinstance, I once had the exact same problem with Rover 75 ('51
model), which has the battery under the rear seat. There were so many bad
contact spots in the chassis itself that I had to put a continuous earth strap
from battery to engine.
Good hunting,
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 11:22:03
Subject: Re: XK 120 - hard to start
The engine firing when you let go of the start button is a typical symptom of
ballast resistor trouble. I’m not saying that’s necessarily what you have here,
but it would be very much my first thing to check.
In principle, the ignition coil is designed to operate at around 7-8 volts,
which is what you typically get out of a 12V system while the starter draws its
100 or so amps. So at all other times, you need to have a ballast resistor in
series with the coil to drop the voltage and prevent burning it out. This
resistor should be shorted out by a relay during starting; if this is not
happening, the ballast resistor drops the coil voltage so much that you get
little or no spark.
To check this, hook up a voltmeter to the coil + terminal and watch it while
cranking; the voltage should change very little as the starter operates. If it
drops to 3-4 V, it’s time to trace the ballast bypass circuit, starting with
the #$%@& Lucas connectors…
-
- Jan
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 96 17:09:18 PDT
Subject: Re[2]: Wood in Jaguars (fwd)
|
| Anyway, I occasionally rub a little yellow car wax (Meguiar’s) over
| the polyurethane coating which protects that beautiful veneer… Does
| this help?
|
| Michael Kenrick
|
A more general question: Do you guys periodically put anything on the wood?
I’m hesitant to mess with the wood, fearing that some chemical compound
might accidentally cause the surface finish/color to fade.
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 12:24:20
Subject: Re: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
Let me add my $0.016 ($A0.02) to this thread: this problem is basically
design-related. One possible cure is to change to one grade colder spark plugs;
this works on some cars. Inspect the face of one plug; if the insulator is
white, change to a plug with a higher heat rating (insulator protrudes less
into the combustion chamber). It should be milk chocolate coloured after a
normal speed run.
This doesn’t always work out; some combustion chambers have swirl centres where
coke collects very quickly and builds up deposits thick enough to glow. One way
to live with such engines (forget about decoking every 10,000 miles) is very
simple: give it full throttle as you switch off the ignition. The sudden inrush
of cold air helps stop the glowing, and the greater pumping power required
stops the engine rotating more quickly.
-
- Jan
From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 96 21:28:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
*** Resending note of 07/03/96 11:18
*** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FE21
*** INTERNET - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM *** IBMMAIL - AUIBMSPM ****
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Another naive question from someone who hasn’t done any woodwork:
Why not take a piece of wood, and just make a wooden dashboard out of it
with no veneer on the surface? Instead just put colored varnish on the surfac
to make it look nice. Is this not done because a regular wooden surface
would be too soft and subject to scratches and dents?
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Roger, the reason is that the really nice wood is the burl. This comes
from when a branch falls off a tree, and the spot where it came from
gets a ‘rounded’ look, much like a wart on our skin. Compared to the
overall size of the tree, there is a very small percentage of burl.
Since it looks so great, it is in high demand, and is therefore
expensive as hell.
Therefore, they use cheap junky plywood, and put a sliver of walnut
veneer on the outside. Looks great, and is 1/20th the cost of solid burl.
I personally love the chestnut burl they use in Rolls Royce/Bently. Much
lighter, like the biscuit trim in the jaguar. I’ll eventually buy some
myself and retrim my woodwork to match my biscuit connolly leather. Will
also do around all the switches and gear stick.
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 96 15:41:38 PDT
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Another naive question from someone who hasn’t done any woodwork:
Why not take a piece of wood, and just make a wooden dashboard out of it
with no veneer on the surface? Instead just put colored varnish on the surface
to make it look nice. Is this not done because a regular wooden surface
would be too soft and subject to scratches and dents?
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 20:01:04 GMT
Subject: Re: CO Analyzer / Original hoses
On 2 Jul 1996, Ed Scripps wrote:
One, the '66 Jag doesn’t have
any manifold CO test tubes but couldn’t I use the probe up the exhaust pipes?
Yes. If it has got twin exhaust system and twin carburettors you get the
benefit of one measuring point per carb.
Where could I get a CO analyzer?
Gunson makes some inexpensive ones. I’ve got the model with the analogue
instrument powered by the car battery. It works like a dream. I paid slightly
over $100 for it here in Norway.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 20:33:40 GMT
Subject: Re: Panther cars
On Tue, 2 Jul 1996, Peter Carpenter wrote:
On 1 Jul 1996, Alan Akeister wrote:
Panther Sports cars.
This one was called a Kallista. There seems to be a distant and VERY vague
memory of another model the Lima. And wasn’t there another company that
made something like the ‘J2’?
The J72, you mean? That was an SS100 lookalike made by, indeed, Panther
in the 70s. Running gear was from Jaguar.
All in all a pretty tasteless contraption, if you ask me. Although
overshadowed in terms of vulgarity by the US inventor of the “replicar”
idea, the Excalibur. A true “Liberace” among cars.
The Lima and the Kallista is more or less the same thing, methinks. Just
different years, engines and ownership, Panther being sold to Korean
interests. Although it is also of 30s “style”, its got a character more of
its own.
The ‘J2’ was a different animal altogether. A two seater sports made by
Allard around 1950. Quicker than the XK120, but the latter was the more
handsome. Not that the J2 is ugly, it is IMHO the prettiest of the
Allards, with its distinctive scuttle shape, aero screens and front cycle
wings.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 22:16:44 -0700
Subject: RE: The list has gone haywire again
Sooooo… Now would probably be a good time for everyone to make =
multiple postings and flood the mailboxes of the hapless people that are =
not near their computer at the moment.
Just kidding of course!
From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 1996 10:13 PM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: The list has gone haywire again
Sorry folks, seems like we are experiencing yet another
bumbling Major Domo. We are trying to locate the source
of the problem. Please bear with us for a while longer.
Nick (admin with premature gray hair)
From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 07:13:24 +0200
Subject: The list has gone haywire again
Sorry folks, seems like we are experiencing yet another
bumbling Major Domo. We are trying to locate the source
of the problem. Please bear with us for a while longer.
Nick (admin with premature gray hair)
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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 3 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 194
Re: XK 120 - hard to start
re: XK 120 - hard to start
wood veneers and cracks
Mad Majordomo
Re: Wood in Jaguars
Need advice with AC adjustment - 85 XJ-s
Re: Panther cars
Re: Starter problems
Re: XK 120 - hard to start
Re[2]: Wood in Jaguars (fwd)
Re: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
Re: Wood in Jaguars
Re: Wood in Jaguars
Re: CO Analyzer / Original hoses
Re: Panther cars
RE: The list has gone haywire again
The list has gone haywire again
Re: XK 120 - hard to start
re: XK 120 - hard to start
From: REMANKING@aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 00:51:15 -0400
Subject: Re: XK 120 - hard to start
In a message dated 96-07-02 22:15:39 EDT, Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au (Jan
Wikstroem) writes:
<< The engine firing when you let go of the start button is a typical symptom
of
ballast resistor trouble. I’m not saying that’s necessarily what you have
here,
but it would be very much my first thing to check.
In principle, the ignition coil is designed to operate at around 7-8 volts,
which is what you typically get out of a 12V system while the starter draws
its
100 or so amps. So at all other times, you need to have a ballast resistor
in
series with the coil to drop the voltage and prevent burning it out. This
resistor should be shorted out by a relay during starting; if this is not
happening, the ballast resistor drops the coil voltage so much that you get
little or no spark.
To check this, hook up a voltmeter to the coil + terminal and watch it while
cranking; the voltage should change very little as the starter operates. If
it
drops to 3-4 V, it’s time to trace the ballast bypass circuit, starting with
the #$%@& Lucas connectors…
- Jan
This is correct especially on Chryslers. However XK120 do not use a ballast
resistor. Most early Lucas coils and all of the Lucas “Sport” coils are
designed not to use a ballast resitor.
From: pbrown@sbnsw.com.au
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 96 0:04:53 ���
Subject: re: XK 120 - hard to start
Larry,
You can always retain your old mechanical ignition system to use in case the
new-fangled gadget falls over.
I generally keep a can of ether spray in case any of my cars won’t start; a
shot of that down the air cleaner will get it going every time.
As for TV interference from copper cables, surely you turn the set off while
you’re driving!
Regards
Peter Brown
Lobotomised SII Daimler VDP
Triumph TC2500
John Elmgreen 100353.1733@CompuServe.COM Wrote:
|
|
| ---------- Forwarded Message ----------
|
| From: Larry Hodson, INTERNET:lwh3419@en.com
| TO: John Elmgreen, 100353,1733
| DATE: 30-6-96 11:00 PM
|
| RE: Re: XK group
|
| Sender: lwh3419@en.com
| Received: from en.com (en.com [204.89.181.1]) by
| dub-img-6.compuserve.com (8.6.10/5.950515)
| id WAA09185; Sun, 30 Jun 1996 22:58:53 -0400
| Received: from lwh3419.en.com (p14-ts3.en.net
| [207.78.11.45]) by en.com (8.7.4/8.7.4) with SMTP id
| XAA02783 for 100353.1733@CompuServe.COM; Sun, 30 Jun
| 1996 23:01:17 -0400 (EDT)
| Date: Sun, 30 Jun 1996 23:01:17 -0400 (EDT)
| Message-Id: 199607010301.XAA02783@en.com
| X-Sender: lwh3419@en.com (Unverified)
| X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 1.5.2
| Mime-Version: 1.0
| Content-Type: text/plain; charset=“us-ascii”
| To: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@CompuServe.COM
| From: Larry Hodson lwh3419@en.com
| Subject: Re: XK group
|
| At 08:13 AM 5/28/96 EDT, you wrote:
| >Dear Larry & Denise, I saw from the WWW site that you
| are the owners of an
| >XK120. If you want to join our little group of XK owners
| who swap email re the
| >cars, let me know. Regards, John Elmgreen XK120, XK150
| >
| >Dear John
|
| I thought you or one in your group could help me on this
| problem.
| I’ve owned my '54 120 for about 14 years. The whole time
| I’ve had
| it I’ve always had trouble starting it after it has set
| for more than
| 3 or 4 days. I’ve tuned it by the book and have others
| check it out
| but to no avail. It seems that if I release the starter
| button at just
| the right time( top of the piston stroke) it’ll catch and
| run. Other-
| wise it’s a slow grind untill the battery runs down and I
| get the
| jumper cables out. It seems as if all the battery amps are
| going to
| the starter motor and not to the plugs.
|
| I’ve tried a new coil but that didn’t help. The batteries
| are good.
| I thought I try another set of plug wires. Perhaps Packard
| 440 solid
| copper wires although I heard they can cause radio and TV
| inter-
| ferance. My present wires are the everyday ones with
| graphide or
| whatever centers. I’ve got the stock distributor and point
| setup
| in use but I was wondering if I should put in an
| electronic one.
| My buddy Joe Burke up near Boston has a '53 120 Coupe and
| he was
| able to start his car in below zero weather when he lived
| in Clev-
| land. Other people tell me not to install it because if it
| fails
| then you are stuck for sure out in the middle of nowhere,
| wheras
| if your points screw up just reset them and you are back
| on the
| road. I would prefer to cure this without installing
| electronic
| ignition if possible.
|
| If anyone has any ideas please drop me a line.
|
| Larry Hodson
| lwh3419@en.com
|
|
|
From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 21:09:00 -0700
Subject: wood veneers and cracks
I might as well add my two bits of speculation on the cracking veneer
debate…
The wood trim on my 85 XJ-S appears to be cracking. However upon closer
inspection I can tell that it is not the veneer that is cracking, it is the
polyurethane coating on top that is cracking. The reason?.. shrinkage and
differential contraction/expansion; as the volatile compounds in the
polyurethane evaporate over time the coating shrinks, particularly if it is
thick in order to give it that nice deep shine… Extremes of heating,
cooling and humidity really help this process along nicely by mechanically
contracting and expanding that nice, thick, shiny layer of polyurethane (or
lacquer, or varnish)!!! In essence what is happening is that you have this
sandwich composed of three layers (actually more, but they can be lumped)of
different materials with differing expansion properties. The underlying
layer is plywood (actually a sub-sandwich itself; non-comestible variety),
the middle layers is the actual veneer (very thin and tightly glued to the
plywood), and the polyurethane. The plywood is porous and thick and the
veneer, because it is well glued to the plywood, might as well be part of
it. Both of these layers are subject to much less contraction/expansion
than the thinner, more flexible, more dense, polyurethane. The result is
the poyurethane shrinks and expands at a much faster rate than the
underlying part of the wood sandwich. In addition, over time and without
any mechanical shrinking/expanding the polyurethane will dry as the
volatiles in it evaporate. This is a slow process, but… give it enough
time, and/or the right conditions and you became the proud owner of genuine,
premium, jguar cracked trim.
One indication of this process is the fact that most of these cracks will
be perpendicular to the long axis of the piece of wood; the long axis is the
direction in which you’ll get the greatest amount of shrinkage. Once the
shrinkage crack develops, the UV component of light gets through it and
begins to darken the wood itself. In addition the crak now provides direct
acces to the wood for air and any moisture that it may have. Over time the
veneer layer under the polyurethane crack itself drys, weakens, and perhaps
lifts off the plywood onto which it is glued, and the crack travels through
the vener and into the wood.
Most of the problems with the wood in my car are of this nature. None of the
problems appear to be related to the veneer separting from the underlying
plywood “base”. A few of the problem spots are related to the plywood
separating along its own layers (parallel to the face of the plywood); this
is definetely a quality problem. Good old jag used poor grade plywood;
period. One additional problem spot in my case is related to the butt joint
(no jokes please) between two adjacent pieces of veneer on the same trim
piece, separating. This problem appears to be due to distortion of the
plywood (its got a slight curl or curvature)onto which the veneer is glued.
Again this is also a quality problem; not weith the veneer but with the
underlying plywood.
So, what to do? I am opting for re-finishing all of my trim pieces. Once I
get the new polyurethane coat on then I intend to follow the practice
described by one of the other commenters (?) on this subject: occasionally
apply a light coating of furniture grade oil onto the wood and or follow it
with a light wax. Polyurethane has porosity; applying the oil will slow the
evaporation of the volatile compounds in it. A wax coating will seal the
pores and will prevent the evaporation of the volatiles in the polyurethane
or the furniture oil that does manage to soak in.
Hope I haven’t bored all of you…
Rob W-M
85 XJ-S
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 22:53:08 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Mad Majordomo
The major’s gone mad…again…forgetting that he’s already sent messages
out to us, &c, &c, &c…
Is there a cure? Can he get treatment?
Larry Lee
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 13:39:18
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Apart from the cost of walnut (and other sightly timbers), solid timber has
problems with changing humidity and temperature and tends to crack as it
expands and contracts at right angles to the fibres. Plywood is structurally
very superior to solid timber because the fibres run in more than one direction.
-
- Jan
From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 19:55:13 -0700
Subject: Need advice with AC adjustment - 85 XJ-s
Hoping one of you can provide me with advice about an AC air flow problem…
The AC in my 85 XJ-S works fine (just put in a new compressor, hoses and
receiver drier), and puts out a good amount of cold air. The problem is
that in the regular AC mode some of the air is being blown out through the
windshield vents as opposed to all of it coming out through the facia vents
or the footwell vents. The flow onot the windshield vents is also uneven,
the left (driver) windshield vent lets out a barely perceptible flow; the
right windshield vent lets out a large amount of air flow. I have also
noted that the right facia vent (adjacent to the door itself) puts out a
very weak air stream.
I hate to see all that “cool air” going onto one side of the windshield,
insted of onto the passanger/driver. Any ideas on what is causing this and
how to rectify it?
Thanks,
Rob W-M
85 XJ-S
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 22:09:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Panther cars
<VERY vague
memory of another model the Lima. And wasn’t there another company that
made something like the ‘J2’? I am sure that there was one based on Jag
running gear…
As usual my massage has been of no help…>
Your mwmory is not totally gone. I remember seeing one based on Jag running
gear in a Jag repair shop in Costa Mesa, Ca. It did indeed look a little
like an SS100. Car was very light weight and must have been very, very fast.
Dave the Free man
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 11:31:06
Subject: Re: Starter problems
I’d start by checking the earth (ground) connections, Dave. There’s excessive
resistance somewhere in the circuit - just the oppposite of a short. The engine
earth strap may not be making perfect contact with the chassis, for instance;
the battery negative strap ditto, for another. A good, quick trouble-shooting
method is to put a voltmeter across various parts of the cirquit and operating
the starter; bad contact will show up as a significant (more than the odd volt)
voltage. I’d start by connecting the voltmeter between the engine block and the
chassis…
Just as a f’rinstance, I once had the exact same problem with Rover 75 ('51
model), which has the battery under the rear seat. There were so many bad
contact spots in the chassis itself that I had to put a continuous earth strap
from battery to engine.
Good hunting,
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 11:22:03
Subject: Re: XK 120 - hard to start
The engine firing when you let go of the start button is a typical symptom of
ballast resistor trouble. I’m not saying that’s necessarily what you have here,
but it would be very much my first thing to check.
In principle, the ignition coil is designed to operate at around 7-8 volts,
which is what you typically get out of a 12V system while the starter draws its
100 or so amps. So at all other times, you need to have a ballast resistor in
series with the coil to drop the voltage and prevent burning it out. This
resistor should be shorted out by a relay during starting; if this is not
happening, the ballast resistor drops the coil voltage so much that you get
little or no spark.
To check this, hook up a voltmeter to the coil + terminal and watch it while
cranking; the voltage should change very little as the starter operates. If it
drops to 3-4 V, it’s time to trace the ballast bypass circuit, starting with
the #$%@& Lucas connectors…
-
- Jan
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 96 17:09:18 PDT
Subject: Re[2]: Wood in Jaguars (fwd)
|
| Anyway, I occasionally rub a little yellow car wax (Meguiar’s) over
| the polyurethane coating which protects that beautiful veneer… Does
| this help?
|
| Michael Kenrick
|
A more general question: Do you guys periodically put anything on the wood?
I’m hesitant to mess with the wood, fearing that some chemical compound
might accidentally cause the surface finish/color to fade.
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 12:24:20
Subject: Re: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
Let me add my $0.016 ($A0.02) to this thread: this problem is basically
design-related. One possible cure is to change to one grade colder spark plugs;
this works on some cars. Inspect the face of one plug; if the insulator is
white, change to a plug with a higher heat rating (insulator protrudes less
into the combustion chamber). It should be milk chocolate coloured after a
normal speed run.
This doesn’t always work out; some combustion chambers have swirl centres where
coke collects very quickly and builds up deposits thick enough to glow. One way
to live with such engines (forget about decoking every 10,000 miles) is very
simple: give it full throttle as you switch off the ignition. The sudden inrush
of cold air helps stop the glowing, and the greater pumping power required
stops the engine rotating more quickly.
-
- Jan
From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 96 21:28:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
*** Resending note of 07/03/96 11:18
*** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FE21
*** INTERNET - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM *** IBMMAIL - AUIBMSPM ****
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Another naive question from someone who hasn’t done any woodwork:
Why not take a piece of wood, and just make a wooden dashboard out of it
with no veneer on the surface? Instead just put colored varnish on the surfac
to make it look nice. Is this not done because a regular wooden surface
would be too soft and subject to scratches and dents?
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Roger, the reason is that the really nice wood is the burl. This comes
from when a branch falls off a tree, and the spot where it came from
gets a ‘rounded’ look, much like a wart on our skin. Compared to the
overall size of the tree, there is a very small percentage of burl.
Since it looks so great, it is in high demand, and is therefore
expensive as hell.
Therefore, they use cheap junky plywood, and put a sliver of walnut
veneer on the outside. Looks great, and is 1/20th the cost of solid burl.
I personally love the chestnut burl they use in Rolls Royce/Bently. Much
lighter, like the biscuit trim in the jaguar. I’ll eventually buy some
myself and retrim my woodwork to match my biscuit connolly leather. Will
also do around all the switches and gear stick.
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 96 15:41:38 PDT
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Another naive question from someone who hasn’t done any woodwork:
Why not take a piece of wood, and just make a wooden dashboard out of it
with no veneer on the surface? Instead just put colored varnish on the surface
to make it look nice. Is this not done because a regular wooden surface
would be too soft and subject to scratches and dents?
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 20:01:04 GMT
Subject: Re: CO Analyzer / Original hoses
On 2 Jul 1996, Ed Scripps wrote:
One, the '66 Jag doesn’t have
any manifold CO test tubes but couldn’t I use the probe up the exhaust pipes?
Yes. If it has got twin exhaust system and twin carburettors you get the
benefit of one measuring point per carb.
Where could I get a CO analyzer?
Gunson makes some inexpensive ones. I’ve got the model with the analogue
instrument powered by the car battery. It works like a dream. I paid slightly
over $100 for it here in Norway.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 20:33:40 GMT
Subject: Re: Panther cars
On Tue, 2 Jul 1996, Peter Carpenter wrote:
On 1 Jul 1996, Alan Akeister wrote:
Panther Sports cars.
This one was called a Kallista. There seems to be a distant and VERY vague
memory of another model the Lima. And wasn’t there another company that
made something like the ‘J2’?
The J72, you mean? That was an SS100 lookalike made by, indeed, Panther
in the 70s. Running gear was from Jaguar.
All in all a pretty tasteless contraption, if you ask me. Although
overshadowed in terms of vulgarity by the US inventor of the “replicar”
idea, the Excalibur. A true “Liberace” among cars.
The Lima and the Kallista is more or less the same thing, methinks. Just
different years, engines and ownership, Panther being sold to Korean
interests. Although it is also of 30s “style”, its got a character more of
its own.
The ‘J2’ was a different animal altogether. A two seater sports made by
Allard around 1950. Quicker than the XK120, but the latter was the more
handsome. Not that the J2 is ugly, it is IMHO the prettiest of the
Allards, with its distinctive scuttle shape, aero screens and front cycle
wings.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 22:16:44 -0700
Subject: RE: The list has gone haywire again
Sooooo… Now would probably be a good time for everyone to make =
multiple postings and flood the mailboxes of the hapless people that are =
not near their computer at the moment.
Just kidding of course!
From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 1996 10:13 PM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: The list has gone haywire again
Sorry folks, seems like we are experiencing yet another
bumbling Major Domo. We are trying to locate the source
of the problem. Please bear with us for a while longer.
Nick (admin with premature gray hair)
From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 07:13:24 +0200
Subject: The list has gone haywire again
Sorry folks, seems like we are experiencing yet another
bumbling Major Domo. We are trying to locate the source
of the problem. Please bear with us for a while longer.
Nick (admin with premature gray hair)
From: REMANKING@aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 00:51:15 -0400
Subject: Re: XK 120 - hard to start
In a message dated 96-07-02 22:15:39 EDT, Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au (Jan
Wikstroem) writes:
<< The engine firing when you let go of the start button is a typical symptom
of
ballast resistor trouble. I’m not saying that’s necessarily what you have
here,
but it would be very much my first thing to check.
In principle, the ignition coil is designed to operate at around 7-8 volts,
which is what you typically get out of a 12V system while the starter draws
its
100 or so amps. So at all other times, you need to have a ballast resistor
in
series with the coil to drop the voltage and prevent burning it out. This
resistor should be shorted out by a relay during starting; if this is not
happening, the ballast resistor drops the coil voltage so much that you get
little or no spark.
To check this, hook up a voltmeter to the coil + terminal and watch it while
cranking; the voltage should change very little as the starter operates. If
it
drops to 3-4 V, it’s time to trace the ballast bypass circuit, starting with
the #$%@& Lucas connectors…
- Jan
This is correct especially on Chryslers. However XK120 do not use a ballast
resistor. Most early Lucas coils and all of the Lucas “Sport” coils are
designed not to use a ballast resitor.
From: pbrown@sbnsw.com.au
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 96 0:04:53 ���
Subject: re: XK 120 - hard to start
Larry,
You can always retain your old mechanical ignition system to use in case the
new-fangled gadget falls over.
I generally keep a can of ether spray in case any of my cars won’t start; a
shot of that down the air cleaner will get it going every time.
As for TV interference from copper cables, surely you turn the set off while
you’re driving!
Regards
Peter Brown
Lobotomised SII Daimler VDP
Triumph TC2500
John Elmgreen 100353.1733@CompuServe.COM Wrote:
|
|
| ---------- Forwarded Message ----------
|
| From: Larry Hodson, INTERNET:lwh3419@en.com
| TO: John Elmgreen, 100353,1733
| DATE: 30-6-96 11:00 PM
|
| RE: Re: XK group
|
| Sender: lwh3419@en.com
| Received: from en.com (en.com [204.89.181.1]) by
| dub-img-6.compuserve.com (8.6.10/5.950515)
| id WAA09185; Sun, 30 Jun 1996 22:58:53 -0400
| Received: from lwh3419.en.com (p14-ts3.en.net
| [207.78.11.45]) by en.com (8.7.4/8.7.4) with SMTP id
| XAA02783 for 100353.1733@CompuServe.COM; Sun, 30 Jun
| 1996 23:01:17 -0400 (EDT)
| Date: Sun, 30 Jun 1996 23:01:17 -0400 (EDT)
| Message-Id: 199607010301.XAA02783@en.com
| X-Sender: lwh3419@en.com (Unverified)
| X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 1.5.2
| Mime-Version: 1.0
| Content-Type: text/plain; charset=“us-ascii”
| To: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@CompuServe.COM
| From: Larry Hodson lwh3419@en.com
| Subject: Re: XK group
|
| At 08:13 AM 5/28/96 EDT, you wrote:
| >Dear Larry & Denise, I saw from the WWW site that you
| are the owners of an
| >XK120. If you want to join our little group of XK owners
| who swap email re the
| >cars, let me know. Regards, John Elmgreen XK120, XK150
| >
| >Dear John
|
| I thought you or one in your group could help me on this
| problem.
| I’ve owned my '54 120 for about 14 years. The whole time
| I’ve had
| it I’ve always had trouble starting it after it has set
| for more than
| 3 or 4 days. I’ve tuned it by the book and have others
| check it out
| but to no avail. It seems that if I release the starter
| button at just
| the right time( top of the piston stroke) it’ll catch and
| run. Other-
| wise it’s a slow grind untill the battery runs down and I
| get the
| jumper cables out. It seems as if all the battery amps are
| going to
| the starter motor and not to the plugs.
|
| I’ve tried a new coil but that didn’t help. The batteries
| are good.
| I thought I try another set of plug wires. Perhaps Packard
| 440 solid
| copper wires although I heard they can cause radio and TV
| inter-
| ferance. My present wires are the everyday ones with
| graphide or
| whatever centers. I’ve got the stock distributor and point
| setup
| in use but I was wondering if I should put in an
| electronic one.
| My buddy Joe Burke up near Boston has a '53 120 Coupe and
| he was
| able to start his car in below zero weather when he lived
| in Clev-
| land. Other people tell me not to install it because if it
| fails
| then you are stuck for sure out in the middle of nowhere,
| wheras
| if your points screw up just reset them and you are back
| on the
| road. I would prefer to cure this without installing
| electronic
| ignition if possible.
|
| If anyone has any ideas please drop me a line.
|
| Larry Hodson
| lwh3419@en.com
|
|
|
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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 3 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 195
wood veneers and cracks
Mad Majordomo
Re: Wood in Jaguars
Need advice with AC adjustment - 85 XJ-s
Re: Wood in Jaguars
Re: Panther cars
Re: Starter problems
Re: XK 120 - hard to start
Re[2]: Wood in Jaguars (fwd)
Re: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
Re: Wood in Jaguars
Re: Wood in Jaguars
Re: CO Analyzer / Original hoses
Re: Panther cars
Re: Wood in Jaguars
RE: The list has gone haywire again
The list has gone haywire again
Re: XK 120 - hard to start
Wire wheels
re: XK 120 - hard to start
From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 21:09:00 -0700
Subject: wood veneers and cracks
I might as well add my two bits of speculation on the cracking veneer
debate…
The wood trim on my 85 XJ-S appears to be cracking. However upon closer
inspection I can tell that it is not the veneer that is cracking, it is the
polyurethane coating on top that is cracking. The reason?.. shrinkage and
differential contraction/expansion; as the volatile compounds in the
polyurethane evaporate over time the coating shrinks, particularly if it is
thick in order to give it that nice deep shine… Extremes of heating,
cooling and humidity really help this process along nicely by mechanically
contracting and expanding that nice, thick, shiny layer of polyurethane (or
lacquer, or varnish)!!! In essence what is happening is that you have this
sandwich composed of three layers (actually more, but they can be lumped)of
different materials with differing expansion properties. The underlying
layer is plywood (actually a sub-sandwich itself; non-comestible variety),
the middle layers is the actual veneer (very thin and tightly glued to the
plywood), and the polyurethane. The plywood is porous and thick and the
veneer, because it is well glued to the plywood, might as well be part of
it. Both of these layers are subject to much less contraction/expansion
than the thinner, more flexible, more dense, polyurethane. The result is
the poyurethane shrinks and expands at a much faster rate than the
underlying part of the wood sandwich. In addition, over time and without
any mechanical shrinking/expanding the polyurethane will dry as the
volatiles in it evaporate. This is a slow process, but… give it enough
time, and/or the right conditions and you became the proud owner of genuine,
premium, jguar cracked trim.
One indication of this process is the fact that most of these cracks will
be perpendicular to the long axis of the piece of wood; the long axis is the
direction in which you’ll get the greatest amount of shrinkage. Once the
shrinkage crack develops, the UV component of light gets through it and
begins to darken the wood itself. In addition the crak now provides direct
acces to the wood for air and any moisture that it may have. Over time the
veneer layer under the polyurethane crack itself drys, weakens, and perhaps
lifts off the plywood onto which it is glued, and the crack travels through
the vener and into the wood.
Most of the problems with the wood in my car are of this nature. None of the
problems appear to be related to the veneer separting from the underlying
plywood “base”. A few of the problem spots are related to the plywood
separating along its own layers (parallel to the face of the plywood); this
is definetely a quality problem. Good old jag used poor grade plywood;
period. One additional problem spot in my case is related to the butt joint
(no jokes please) between two adjacent pieces of veneer on the same trim
piece, separating. This problem appears to be due to distortion of the
plywood (its got a slight curl or curvature)onto which the veneer is glued.
Again this is also a quality problem; not weith the veneer but with the
underlying plywood.
So, what to do? I am opting for re-finishing all of my trim pieces. Once I
get the new polyurethane coat on then I intend to follow the practice
described by one of the other commenters (?) on this subject: occasionally
apply a light coating of furniture grade oil onto the wood and or follow it
with a light wax. Polyurethane has porosity; applying the oil will slow the
evaporation of the volatile compounds in it. A wax coating will seal the
pores and will prevent the evaporation of the volatiles in the polyurethane
or the furniture oil that does manage to soak in.
Hope I haven’t bored all of you…
Rob W-M
85 XJ-S
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 22:53:08 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Mad Majordomo
The major’s gone mad…again…forgetting that he’s already sent messages
out to us, &c, &c, &c…
Is there a cure? Can he get treatment?
Larry Lee
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 13:39:18
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Apart from the cost of walnut (and other sightly timbers), solid timber has
problems with changing humidity and temperature and tends to crack as it
expands and contracts at right angles to the fibres. Plywood is structurally
very superior to solid timber because the fibres run in more than one direction.
-
- Jan
From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 19:55:13 -0700
Subject: Need advice with AC adjustment - 85 XJ-s
Hoping one of you can provide me with advice about an AC air flow problem…
The AC in my 85 XJ-S works fine (just put in a new compressor, hoses and
receiver drier), and puts out a good amount of cold air. The problem is
that in the regular AC mode some of the air is being blown out through the
windshield vents as opposed to all of it coming out through the facia vents
or the footwell vents. The flow onot the windshield vents is also uneven,
the left (driver) windshield vent lets out a barely perceptible flow; the
right windshield vent lets out a large amount of air flow. I have also
noted that the right facia vent (adjacent to the door itself) puts out a
very weak air stream.
I hate to see all that “cool air” going onto one side of the windshield,
insted of onto the passanger/driver. Any ideas on what is causing this and
how to rectify it?
Thanks,
Rob W-M
85 XJ-S
From: Volker Nadenau nadenau@ipers1.e-technik.uni-stuttgart.de
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 09:19:32 +0200 (MST)
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Hi Roger,
taking a piece of massive wood would not be a good solution. It also will
crack under the heavy duty environmental conditions in a car. (enourmous
temperature range and not enough humidity in summer).
The effect is just the other way around. Thicker layers will crack easier,
because it can not move to reduce the inner forces. The only way the avoid
cracking as much as possible is to use very high quality venneer, which
has been
cut in thin layers years before use in a car und was stored under constant
temperature und humidity, on a multilayer base.
Volker
Another naive
question from someone who hasn’t
done any woodwork: >
Why not take a piece of wood, and just make a wooden dashboard out of it
with no veneer on the surface? Instead just put colored varnish on the surface
to make it look nice. Is this not done because a regular wooden surface
would be too soft and subject to scratches and dents?–
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
Volker Nadenau Phone: ++49 711 685 7200
University of Stuttgart Fax : ++49 711 685 7143
Institute for Physical Electronics Internet: nadenau@ipers1.e-technik.uni-stuttgart.de
Pfaffenwaldring 47
70569 Stuttgart
Germany
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 22:09:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Panther cars
<VERY vague
memory of another model the Lima. And wasn’t there another company that
made something like the ‘J2’? I am sure that there was one based on Jag
running gear…
As usual my massage has been of no help…>
Your mwmory is not totally gone. I remember seeing one based on Jag running
gear in a Jag repair shop in Costa Mesa, Ca. It did indeed look a little
like an SS100. Car was very light weight and must have been very, very fast.
Dave the Free man
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 11:31:06
Subject: Re: Starter problems
I’d start by checking the earth (ground) connections, Dave. There’s excessive
resistance somewhere in the circuit - just the oppposite of a short. The engine
earth strap may not be making perfect contact with the chassis, for instance;
the battery negative strap ditto, for another. A good, quick trouble-shooting
method is to put a voltmeter across various parts of the cirquit and operating
the starter; bad contact will show up as a significant (more than the odd volt)
voltage. I’d start by connecting the voltmeter between the engine block and the
chassis…
Just as a f’rinstance, I once had the exact same problem with Rover 75 ('51
model), which has the battery under the rear seat. There were so many bad
contact spots in the chassis itself that I had to put a continuous earth strap
from battery to engine.
Good hunting,
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 11:22:03
Subject: Re: XK 120 - hard to start
The engine firing when you let go of the start button is a typical symptom of
ballast resistor trouble. I’m not saying that’s necessarily what you have here,
but it would be very much my first thing to check.
In principle, the ignition coil is designed to operate at around 7-8 volts,
which is what you typically get out of a 12V system while the starter draws its
100 or so amps. So at all other times, you need to have a ballast resistor in
series with the coil to drop the voltage and prevent burning it out. This
resistor should be shorted out by a relay during starting; if this is not
happening, the ballast resistor drops the coil voltage so much that you get
little or no spark.
To check this, hook up a voltmeter to the coil + terminal and watch it while
cranking; the voltage should change very little as the starter operates. If it
drops to 3-4 V, it’s time to trace the ballast bypass circuit, starting with
the #$%@& Lucas connectors…
-
- Jan
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 96 17:09:18 PDT
Subject: Re[2]: Wood in Jaguars (fwd)
|
| Anyway, I occasionally rub a little yellow car wax (Meguiar’s) over
| the polyurethane coating which protects that beautiful veneer… Does
| this help?
|
| Michael Kenrick
|
A more general question: Do you guys periodically put anything on the wood?
I’m hesitant to mess with the wood, fearing that some chemical compound
might accidentally cause the surface finish/color to fade.
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 12:24:20
Subject: Re: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
Let me add my $0.016 ($A0.02) to this thread: this problem is basically
design-related. One possible cure is to change to one grade colder spark plugs;
this works on some cars. Inspect the face of one plug; if the insulator is
white, change to a plug with a higher heat rating (insulator protrudes less
into the combustion chamber). It should be milk chocolate coloured after a
normal speed run.
This doesn’t always work out; some combustion chambers have swirl centres where
coke collects very quickly and builds up deposits thick enough to glow. One way
to live with such engines (forget about decoking every 10,000 miles) is very
simple: give it full throttle as you switch off the ignition. The sudden inrush
of cold air helps stop the glowing, and the greater pumping power required
stops the engine rotating more quickly.
-
- Jan
From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 96 21:28:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
*** Resending note of 07/03/96 11:18
*** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FE21
*** INTERNET - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM *** IBMMAIL - AUIBMSPM ****
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Another naive question from someone who hasn’t done any woodwork:
Why not take a piece of wood, and just make a wooden dashboard out of it
with no veneer on the surface? Instead just put colored varnish on the surfac
to make it look nice. Is this not done because a regular wooden surface
would be too soft and subject to scratches and dents?
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Roger, the reason is that the really nice wood is the burl. This comes
from when a branch falls off a tree, and the spot where it came from
gets a ‘rounded’ look, much like a wart on our skin. Compared to the
overall size of the tree, there is a very small percentage of burl.
Since it looks so great, it is in high demand, and is therefore
expensive as hell.
Therefore, they use cheap junky plywood, and put a sliver of walnut
veneer on the outside. Looks great, and is 1/20th the cost of solid burl.
I personally love the chestnut burl they use in Rolls Royce/Bently. Much
lighter, like the biscuit trim in the jaguar. I’ll eventually buy some
myself and retrim my woodwork to match my biscuit connolly leather. Will
also do around all the switches and gear stick.
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 96 15:41:38 PDT
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Another naive question from someone who hasn’t done any woodwork:
Why not take a piece of wood, and just make a wooden dashboard out of it
with no veneer on the surface? Instead just put colored varnish on the surface
to make it look nice. Is this not done because a regular wooden surface
would be too soft and subject to scratches and dents?
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 20:01:04 GMT
Subject: Re: CO Analyzer / Original hoses
On 2 Jul 1996, Ed Scripps wrote:
One, the '66 Jag doesn’t have
any manifold CO test tubes but couldn’t I use the probe up the exhaust pipes?
Yes. If it has got twin exhaust system and twin carburettors you get the
benefit of one measuring point per carb.
Where could I get a CO analyzer?
Gunson makes some inexpensive ones. I’ve got the model with the analogue
instrument powered by the car battery. It works like a dream. I paid slightly
over $100 for it here in Norway.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 20:33:40 GMT
Subject: Re: Panther cars
On Tue, 2 Jul 1996, Peter Carpenter wrote:
On 1 Jul 1996, Alan Akeister wrote:
Panther Sports cars.
This one was called a Kallista. There seems to be a distant and VERY vague
memory of another model the Lima. And wasn’t there another company that
made something like the ‘J2’?
The J72, you mean? That was an SS100 lookalike made by, indeed, Panther
in the 70s. Running gear was from Jaguar.
All in all a pretty tasteless contraption, if you ask me. Although
overshadowed in terms of vulgarity by the US inventor of the “replicar”
idea, the Excalibur. A true “Liberace” among cars.
The Lima and the Kallista is more or less the same thing, methinks. Just
different years, engines and ownership, Panther being sold to Korean
interests. Although it is also of 30s “style”, its got a character more of
its own.
The ‘J2’ was a different animal altogether. A two seater sports made by
Allard around 1950. Quicker than the XK120, but the latter was the more
handsome. Not that the J2 is ugly, it is IMHO the prettiest of the
Allards, with its distinctive scuttle shape, aero screens and front cycle
wings.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: Volker Nadenau nadenau@ipers1.e-technik.uni-stuttgart.de
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 09:19:32 +0200 (MST)
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Hi Roger,
taking a piece of massive wood would not be a good solution. It also will
crack under the heavy duty environmental conditions in a car. (enourmous
temperature range and not enough humidity in summer).
The effect is just the other way around. Thicker layers will crack easier,
because it can not move to reduce the inner forces. The only way the avoid
cracking as much as possible is to use very high quality venneer, which
has been
cut in thin layers years before use in a car und was stored under constant
temperature und humidity, on a multilayer base.
Volker
Another naive
question from someone who hasn’t
done any woodwork: >
Why not take a piece of wood, and just make a wooden dashboard out of it
with no veneer on the surface? Instead just put colored varnish on the surface
to make it look nice. Is this not done because a regular wooden surface
would be too soft and subject to scratches and dents?–
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
Volker Nadenau Phone: ++49 711 685 7200
University of Stuttgart Fax : ++49 711 685 7143
Institute for Physical Electronics Internet: nadenau@ipers1.e-technik.uni-stuttgart.de
Pfaffenwaldring 47
70569 Stuttgart
Germany
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 22:16:44 -0700
Subject: RE: The list has gone haywire again
Sooooo… Now would probably be a good time for everyone to make =
multiple postings and flood the mailboxes of the hapless people that are =
not near their computer at the moment.
Just kidding of course!
From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 1996 10:13 PM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: The list has gone haywire again
Sorry folks, seems like we are experiencing yet another
bumbling Major Domo. We are trying to locate the source
of the problem. Please bear with us for a while longer.
Nick (admin with premature gray hair)
From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 07:13:24 +0200
Subject: The list has gone haywire again
Sorry folks, seems like we are experiencing yet another
bumbling Major Domo. We are trying to locate the source
of the problem. Please bear with us for a while longer.
Nick (admin with premature gray hair)
From: REMANKING@aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 00:51:15 -0400
Subject: Re: XK 120 - hard to start
In a message dated 96-07-02 22:15:39 EDT, Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au (Jan
Wikstroem) writes:
<< The engine firing when you let go of the start button is a typical symptom
of
ballast resistor trouble. I’m not saying that’s necessarily what you have
here,
but it would be very much my first thing to check.
In principle, the ignition coil is designed to operate at around 7-8 volts,
which is what you typically get out of a 12V system while the starter draws
its
100 or so amps. So at all other times, you need to have a ballast resistor
in
series with the coil to drop the voltage and prevent burning it out. This
resistor should be shorted out by a relay during starting; if this is not
happening, the ballast resistor drops the coil voltage so much that you get
little or no spark.
To check this, hook up a voltmeter to the coil + terminal and watch it while
cranking; the voltage should change very little as the starter operates. If
it
drops to 3-4 V, it’s time to trace the ballast bypass circuit, starting with
the #$%@& Lucas connectors…
- Jan
This is correct especially on Chryslers. However XK120 do not use a ballast
resistor. Most early Lucas coils and all of the Lucas “Sport” coils are
designed not to use a ballast resitor.
From: jorgen@tvnorge.no (Jorgen Scheel)
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 09:46:04 +0100
Subject: Wire wheels
If one has the wire wheel hubs, what wheels can one fit?
Are there different kind of wire wheels that fit different models/makes?
Just wonderin…
1.5 x MK1 -59
jorgen@tvnorge.no
From: pbrown@sbnsw.com.au
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 96 0:04:53 ���
Subject: re: XK 120 - hard to start
Larry,
You can always retain your old mechanical ignition system to use in case the
new-fangled gadget falls over.
I generally keep a can of ether spray in case any of my cars won’t start; a
shot of that down the air cleaner will get it going every time.
As for TV interference from copper cables, surely you turn the set off while
you’re driving!
Regards
Peter Brown
Lobotomised SII Daimler VDP
Triumph TC2500
John Elmgreen 100353.1733@CompuServe.COM Wrote:
|
|
| ---------- Forwarded Message ----------
|
| From: Larry Hodson, INTERNET:lwh3419@en.com
| TO: John Elmgreen, 100353,1733
| DATE: 30-6-96 11:00 PM
|
| RE: Re: XK group
|
| Sender: lwh3419@en.com
| Received: from en.com (en.com [204.89.181.1]) by
| dub-img-6.compuserve.com (8.6.10/5.950515)
| id WAA09185; Sun, 30 Jun 1996 22:58:53 -0400
| Received: from lwh3419.en.com (p14-ts3.en.net
| [207.78.11.45]) by en.com (8.7.4/8.7.4) with SMTP id
| XAA02783 for 100353.1733@CompuServe.COM; Sun, 30 Jun
| 1996 23:01:17 -0400 (EDT)
| Date: Sun, 30 Jun 1996 23:01:17 -0400 (EDT)
| Message-Id: 199607010301.XAA02783@en.com
| X-Sender: lwh3419@en.com (Unverified)
| X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 1.5.2
| Mime-Version: 1.0
| Content-Type: text/plain; charset=“us-ascii”
| To: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@CompuServe.COM
| From: Larry Hodson lwh3419@en.com
| Subject: Re: XK group
|
| At 08:13 AM 5/28/96 EDT, you wrote:
| >Dear Larry & Denise, I saw from the WWW site that you
| are the owners of an
| >XK120. If you want to join our little group of XK owners
| who swap email re the
| >cars, let me know. Regards, John Elmgreen XK120, XK150
| >
| >Dear John
|
| I thought you or one in your group could help me on this
| problem.
| I’ve owned my '54 120 for about 14 years. The whole time
| I’ve had
| it I’ve always had trouble starting it after it has set
| for more than
| 3 or 4 days. I’ve tuned it by the book and have others
| check it out
| but to no avail. It seems that if I release the starter
| button at just
| the right time( top of the piston stroke) it’ll catch and
| run. Other-
| wise it’s a slow grind untill the battery runs down and I
| get the
| jumper cables out. It seems as if all the battery amps are
| going to
| the starter motor and not to the plugs.
|
| I’ve tried a new coil but that didn’t help. The batteries
| are good.
| I thought I try another set of plug wires. Perhaps Packard
| 440 solid
| copper wires although I heard they can cause radio and TV
| inter-
| ferance. My present wires are the everyday ones with
| graphide or
| whatever centers. I’ve got the stock distributor and point
| setup
| in use but I was wondering if I should put in an
| electronic one.
| My buddy Joe Burke up near Boston has a '53 120 Coupe and
| he was
| able to start his car in below zero weather when he lived
| in Clev-
| land. Other people tell me not to install it because if it
| fails
| then you are stuck for sure out in the middle of nowhere,
| wheras
| if your points screw up just reset them and you are back
| on the
| road. I would prefer to cure this without installing
| electronic
| ignition if possible.
|
| If anyone has any ideas please drop me a line.
|
| Larry Hodson
| lwh3419@en.com
|
|
|
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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 3 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 196
wood veneers and cracks
Wire wheels
Re: Panther cars
Repeated Messages
Re: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
Re: Wood in Jaguars
Re: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
RE: The list has gone haywire again
Re: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
The list has gone haywire again
Re: XK 120 - hard to start
re: XK 120 - hard to start
Mad Majordomo
wood veneers and cracks
1987 XJ6 Center Console – Escucheon?
XJ6 Cruise Control
Re: Wood in Jaguars
Need advice with AC adjustment - 85 XJ-s
From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 21:09:00 -0700
Subject: wood veneers and cracks
I might as well add my two bits of speculation on the cracking veneer
debate…
The wood trim on my 85 XJ-S appears to be cracking. However upon closer
inspection I can tell that it is not the veneer that is cracking, it is the
polyurethane coating on top that is cracking. The reason?.. shrinkage and
differential contraction/expansion; as the volatile compounds in the
polyurethane evaporate over time the coating shrinks, particularly if it is
thick in order to give it that nice deep shine… Extremes of heating,
cooling and humidity really help this process along nicely by mechanically
contracting and expanding that nice, thick, shiny layer of polyurethane (or
lacquer, or varnish)!!! In essence what is happening is that you have this
sandwich composed of three layers (actually more, but they can be lumped)of
different materials with differing expansion properties. The underlying
layer is plywood (actually a sub-sandwich itself; non-comestible variety),
the middle layers is the actual veneer (very thin and tightly glued to the
plywood), and the polyurethane. The plywood is porous and thick and the
veneer, because it is well glued to the plywood, might as well be part of
it. Both of these layers are subject to much less contraction/expansion
than the thinner, more flexible, more dense, polyurethane. The result is
the poyurethane shrinks and expands at a much faster rate than the
underlying part of the wood sandwich. In addition, over time and without
any mechanical shrinking/expanding the polyurethane will dry as the
volatiles in it evaporate. This is a slow process, but… give it enough
time, and/or the right conditions and you became the proud owner of genuine,
premium, jguar cracked trim.
One indication of this process is the fact that most of these cracks will
be perpendicular to the long axis of the piece of wood; the long axis is the
direction in which you’ll get the greatest amount of shrinkage. Once the
shrinkage crack develops, the UV component of light gets through it and
begins to darken the wood itself. In addition the crak now provides direct
acces to the wood for air and any moisture that it may have. Over time the
veneer layer under the polyurethane crack itself drys, weakens, and perhaps
lifts off the plywood onto which it is glued, and the crack travels through
the vener and into the wood.
Most of the problems with the wood in my car are of this nature. None of the
problems appear to be related to the veneer separting from the underlying
plywood “base”. A few of the problem spots are related to the plywood
separating along its own layers (parallel to the face of the plywood); this
is definetely a quality problem. Good old jag used poor grade plywood;
period. One additional problem spot in my case is related to the butt joint
(no jokes please) between two adjacent pieces of veneer on the same trim
piece, separating. This problem appears to be due to distortion of the
plywood (its got a slight curl or curvature)onto which the veneer is glued.
Again this is also a quality problem; not weith the veneer but with the
underlying plywood.
So, what to do? I am opting for re-finishing all of my trim pieces. Once I
get the new polyurethane coat on then I intend to follow the practice
described by one of the other commenters (?) on this subject: occasionally
apply a light coating of furniture grade oil onto the wood and or follow it
with a light wax. Polyurethane has porosity; applying the oil will slow the
evaporation of the volatile compounds in it. A wax coating will seal the
pores and will prevent the evaporation of the volatiles in the polyurethane
or the furniture oil that does manage to soak in.
Hope I haven’t bored all of you…
Rob W-M
85 XJ-S
From: jorgen@tvnorge.no (Jorgen Scheel)
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 09:46:04 +0100
Subject: Wire wheels
If one has the wire wheel hubs, what wheels can one fit?
Are there different kind of wire wheels that fit different models/makes?
Just wonderin…
1.5 x MK1 -59
jorgen@tvnorge.no
From: Mark Stiles ittmjs@staffs.ac.uk
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 09:13:59 +0100
Subject: Re: Panther cars
On Tue, 2 Jul 1996 22:09:12 -0400 Freemandl@aol.com wrote:
<VERY vague
memory of another model the Lima. And wasn’t there another company that
made something like the ‘J2’? I am sure that there was one based on Jag
running gear…As usual my massage has been of no help…>
Your mwmory is not totally gone. I remember seeing one based on Jag running
gear in a Jag repair shop in Costa Mesa, Ca. It did indeed look a little
like an SS100. Car was very light weight and must have been very, very fast.
Dave the Free man
You are both right - the J2 (SS100 ish) was indeed based on Jag running
gear and was made by the first incarnation of Panther cars, the compnay
has subsequently changed hands at least once and is now (I think) owned
by a far-eastern company possibly Korean?).
Mark
Mark Stiles - Academic Development Manager
IT Services
Staffordshire University
01785 353410
From: brownd@filon.ml.com (Dave Brown - London Dev Xxxxx)
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 09:19:06 +0100
Subject: Repeated Messages
Look, this may seem a little over the top, but if you KNOW that messages are
being duplicated and everyone is already going to receive zillions of redundant
messages, what the *%$~! is the point of adding to the redundancy by sending
useles comments and quips about the fact!
Anyway, that’s my moan over for now, so I’ll get down off the soapbox and let
someone else take their turn…
Cheers,
David
David Brown, Merrill Lynch
brownd@ml.com
///_/_/_/_/////_///______
/_/_//_/_/_/_/_/____
/_/_/_/_/______/_/_/_/______
/_/_/_/_/_/_/________/_/_____
___/_/_/////_/_/_/_/_/______
/_/___/_/_//_/_/_/____
///_/_/_/____/////_///_________
From: ifinlay@vossnet.co.uk (Ian Finlay)
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 09:26:38 +0100
Subject: Re: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
On Jul 03, 1996 12:24:20, ‘Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au’ wrote:
I was told that this is a Bad Idea ™, as the unburnt petrol washes the
lubrication off the top rings
and bores, and can lead to premature wear. Don’t know how true it is - any
comments?
Ian
>... give it full throttle as you switch off the ignition. The sudden inrush > >of cold air helps stop the glowing, and the greater pumping power requiredstops the engine rotating more quickly.
- Jan
Ian Finlay
work:ian.finlay@stream.com
DOD# 960
From: Volker Nadenau nadenau@ipers1.e-technik.uni-stuttgart.de
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 09:19:32 +0200 (MST)
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Hi Roger,
taking a piece of massive wood would not be a good solution. It also will
crack under the heavy duty environmental conditions in a car. (enourmous
temperature range and not enough humidity in summer).
The effect is just the other way around. Thicker layers will crack easier,
because it can not move to reduce the inner forces. The only way the avoid
cracking as much as possible is to use very high quality venneer, which
has been
cut in thin layers years before use in a car und was stored under constant
temperature und humidity, on a multilayer base.
Volker
Another naive
question from someone who hasn’t
done any woodwork: >
Why not take a piece of wood, and just make a wooden dashboard out of it
with no veneer on the surface? Instead just put colored varnish on the surface
to make it look nice. Is this not done because a regular wooden surface
would be too soft and subject to scratches and dents?–
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
Volker Nadenau Phone: ++49 711 685 7200
University of Stuttgart Fax : ++49 711 685 7143
Institute for Physical Electronics Internet: nadenau@ipers1.e-technik.uni-stuttgart.de
Pfaffenwaldring 47
70569 Stuttgart
Germany
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 20:01:58
Subject: Re: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
Ian Finlay :
I was told that this is a Bad Idea ™, as the unburnt petrol washes the
lubrication off the top > >rings and bores.
This is one of those theoretical concerns you hear around the place, but I
would be astonished if anyone has done any actual testing of this point.
Personally, I doubt very much if any liquid petrol would reach the cylinders of
a hot (really hot; this is Jaguar!) engine; if it did, you’d have the oil
getting washed off all the time the engine runs…
If there’s petrol/air mixture remaining in one cylinder (as the other five
would have at least one valve open and be ventilated), would the petrol
condense out as the engine cools? Probably, but the quantity would be in
eyedropper land
-
- 4.2L/6 = 700 mL
-
- 700 mL mixture @ 13:1 (rich, for the sake of argument) = 53 mL petrol vapour
-
- No idea what 53 mL petrol vapor would condense to, but let’s guess at 0.05 mL
and would do precious little washing.
This is where somebody has access to a data book and slaps my wrist for
guessing wrong.
The whole thing only applies to carburetted engines, of course; in an injected
engine, the fuel supply ceases when the ignition is turned off and there
can’t be any overrun. Whazzat? You have an injected 4.2 and it runs on? Check
your injectors; at least one is dribbling…
-
- Jan
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 22:16:44 -0700
Subject: RE: The list has gone haywire again
Sooooo… Now would probably be a good time for everyone to make =
multiple postings and flood the mailboxes of the hapless people that are =
not near their computer at the moment.
Just kidding of course!
From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 1996 10:13 PM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: The list has gone haywire again
Sorry folks, seems like we are experiencing yet another
bumbling Major Domo. We are trying to locate the source
of the problem. Please bear with us for a while longer.
Nick (admin with premature gray hair)
From: Peter Carpenter afp332@bangor.ac.uk
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 10:11:41 +0100 (BST)
Subject: Re: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
On 3 Jul 1996, Jan Wikstroem wrote:
to live with such engines (forget about decoking every 10,000 miles) is very
simple: give it full throttle as you switch off the ignition. The sudden inrush
of cold air helps stop the glowing, and the greater pumping power required
stops the engine rotating more quickly.
- Jan
BUT, does this not introduce unburnt petrol, to wash the cylinders clean?
From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 07:13:24 +0200
Subject: The list has gone haywire again
Sorry folks, seems like we are experiencing yet another
bumbling Major Domo. We are trying to locate the source
of the problem. Please bear with us for a while longer.
Nick (admin with premature gray hair)
From: REMANKING@aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 00:51:15 -0400
Subject: Re: XK 120 - hard to start
In a message dated 96-07-02 22:15:39 EDT, Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au (Jan
Wikstroem) writes:
<< The engine firing when you let go of the start button is a typical symptom
of
ballast resistor trouble. I’m not saying that’s necessarily what you have
here,
but it would be very much my first thing to check.
In principle, the ignition coil is designed to operate at around 7-8 volts,
which is what you typically get out of a 12V system while the starter draws
its
100 or so amps. So at all other times, you need to have a ballast resistor
in
series with the coil to drop the voltage and prevent burning it out. This
resistor should be shorted out by a relay during starting; if this is not
happening, the ballast resistor drops the coil voltage so much that you get
little or no spark.
To check this, hook up a voltmeter to the coil + terminal and watch it while
cranking; the voltage should change very little as the starter operates. If
it
drops to 3-4 V, it’s time to trace the ballast bypass circuit, starting with
the #$%@& Lucas connectors…
- Jan
This is correct especially on Chryslers. However XK120 do not use a ballast
resistor. Most early Lucas coils and all of the Lucas “Sport” coils are
designed not to use a ballast resitor.
From: pbrown@sbnsw.com.au
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 96 0:04:53 ���
Subject: re: XK 120 - hard to start
Larry,
You can always retain your old mechanical ignition system to use in case the
new-fangled gadget falls over.
I generally keep a can of ether spray in case any of my cars won’t start; a
shot of that down the air cleaner will get it going every time.
As for TV interference from copper cables, surely you turn the set off while
you’re driving!
Regards
Peter Brown
Lobotomised SII Daimler VDP
Triumph TC2500
John Elmgreen 100353.1733@CompuServe.COM Wrote:
|
|
| ---------- Forwarded Message ----------
|
| From: Larry Hodson, INTERNET:lwh3419@en.com
| TO: John Elmgreen, 100353,1733
| DATE: 30-6-96 11:00 PM
|
| RE: Re: XK group
|
| Sender: lwh3419@en.com
| Received: from en.com (en.com [204.89.181.1]) by
| dub-img-6.compuserve.com (8.6.10/5.950515)
| id WAA09185; Sun, 30 Jun 1996 22:58:53 -0400
| Received: from lwh3419.en.com (p14-ts3.en.net
| [207.78.11.45]) by en.com (8.7.4/8.7.4) with SMTP id
| XAA02783 for 100353.1733@CompuServe.COM; Sun, 30 Jun
| 1996 23:01:17 -0400 (EDT)
| Date: Sun, 30 Jun 1996 23:01:17 -0400 (EDT)
| Message-Id: 199607010301.XAA02783@en.com
| X-Sender: lwh3419@en.com (Unverified)
| X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 1.5.2
| Mime-Version: 1.0
| Content-Type: text/plain; charset=“us-ascii”
| To: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@CompuServe.COM
| From: Larry Hodson lwh3419@en.com
| Subject: Re: XK group
|
| At 08:13 AM 5/28/96 EDT, you wrote:
| >Dear Larry & Denise, I saw from the WWW site that you
| are the owners of an
| >XK120. If you want to join our little group of XK owners
| who swap email re the
| >cars, let me know. Regards, John Elmgreen XK120, XK150
| >
| >Dear John
|
| I thought you or one in your group could help me on this
| problem.
| I’ve owned my '54 120 for about 14 years. The whole time
| I’ve had
| it I’ve always had trouble starting it after it has set
| for more than
| 3 or 4 days. I’ve tuned it by the book and have others
| check it out
| but to no avail. It seems that if I release the starter
| button at just
| the right time( top of the piston stroke) it’ll catch and
| run. Other-
| wise it’s a slow grind untill the battery runs down and I
| get the
| jumper cables out. It seems as if all the battery amps are
| going to
| the starter motor and not to the plugs.
|
| I’ve tried a new coil but that didn’t help. The batteries
| are good.
| I thought I try another set of plug wires. Perhaps Packard
| 440 solid
| copper wires although I heard they can cause radio and TV
| inter-
| ferance. My present wires are the everyday ones with
| graphide or
| whatever centers. I’ve got the stock distributor and point
| setup
| in use but I was wondering if I should put in an
| electronic one.
| My buddy Joe Burke up near Boston has a '53 120 Coupe and
| he was
| able to start his car in below zero weather when he lived
| in Clev-
| land. Other people tell me not to install it because if it
| fails
| then you are stuck for sure out in the middle of nowhere,
| wheras
| if your points screw up just reset them and you are back
| on the
| road. I would prefer to cure this without installing
| electronic
| ignition if possible.
|
| If anyone has any ideas please drop me a line.
|
| Larry Hodson
| lwh3419@en.com
|
|
|
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 22:53:08 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Mad Majordomo
The major’s gone mad…again…forgetting that he’s already sent messages
out to us, &c, &c, &c…
Is there a cure? Can he get treatment?
Larry Lee
From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 21:09:00 -0700
Subject: wood veneers and cracks
I might as well add my two bits of speculation on the cracking veneer
debate…
The wood trim on my 85 XJ-S appears to be cracking. However upon closer
inspection I can tell that it is not the veneer that is cracking, it is the
polyurethane coating on top that is cracking. The reason?.. shrinkage and
differential contraction/expansion; as the volatile compounds in the
polyurethane evaporate over time the coating shrinks, particularly if it is
thick in order to give it that nice deep shine… Extremes of heating,
cooling and humidity really help this process along nicely by mechanically
contracting and expanding that nice, thick, shiny layer of polyurethane (or
lacquer, or varnish)!!! In essence what is happening is that you have this
sandwich composed of three layers (actually more, but they can be lumped)of
different materials with differing expansion properties. The underlying
layer is plywood (actually a sub-sandwich itself; non-comestible variety),
the middle layers is the actual veneer (very thin and tightly glued to the
plywood), and the polyurethane. The plywood is porous and thick and the
veneer, because it is well glued to the plywood, might as well be part of
it. Both of these layers are subject to much less contraction/expansion
than the thinner, more flexible, more dense, polyurethane. The result is
the poyurethane shrinks and expands at a much faster rate than the
underlying part of the wood sandwich. In addition, over time and without
any mechanical shrinking/expanding the polyurethane will dry as the
volatiles in it evaporate. This is a slow process, but… give it enough
time, and/or the right conditions and you became the proud owner of genuine,
premium, jguar cracked trim.
One indication of this process is the fact that most of these cracks will
be perpendicular to the long axis of the piece of wood; the long axis is the
direction in which you’ll get the greatest amount of shrinkage. Once the
shrinkage crack develops, the UV component of light gets through it and
begins to darken the wood itself. In addition the crak now provides direct
acces to the wood for air and any moisture that it may have. Over time the
veneer layer under the polyurethane crack itself drys, weakens, and perhaps
lifts off the plywood onto which it is glued, and the crack travels through
the vener and into the wood.
Most of the problems with the wood in my car are of this nature. None of the
problems appear to be related to the veneer separting from the underlying
plywood “base”. A few of the problem spots are related to the plywood
separating along its own layers (parallel to the face of the plywood); this
is definetely a quality problem. Good old jag used poor grade plywood;
period. One additional problem spot in my case is related to the butt joint
(no jokes please) between two adjacent pieces of veneer on the same trim
piece, separating. This problem appears to be due to distortion of the
plywood (its got a slight curl or curvature)onto which the veneer is glued.
Again this is also a quality problem; not weith the veneer but with the
underlying plywood.
So, what to do? I am opting for re-finishing all of my trim pieces. Once I
get the new polyurethane coat on then I intend to follow the practice
described by one of the other commenters (?) on this subject: occasionally
apply a light coating of furniture grade oil onto the wood and or follow it
with a light wax. Polyurethane has porosity; applying the oil will slow the
evaporation of the volatile compounds in it. A wax coating will seal the
pores and will prevent the evaporation of the volatiles in the polyurethane
or the furniture oil that does manage to soak in.
Hope I haven’t bored all of you…
Rob W-M
85 XJ-S
From: justinb@Okway.okstate.edu (Justin Beightol)
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 13:39:40 -0500
Subject: 1987 XJ6 Center Console – Escucheon?
Hey guys! Thanks for all the help with my door locks. I think I sent
each individual a reply, but in case I didn't, THANKS!
For others that might want to know what the cause was that kept the
doorlocks from working was the inline fuse above the auxillary fuse
box. ;*)
My question is about the center console. There is one screw up by the
window switches, but I don't find any others. Is that the only screw
that is to be taken out to remove the center console (the one
surrounding the gear shift lever). Is that the escucheon? (Spelling
may be wrong.)
Thanks,
Justin Beightol
1987 Jaguar XJ6 SIII with a little ouch
Stupid parking stops (concrete blocks that you pull up to bent a
little bit of my metal.)
From: justinb@Okway.okstate.edu (Justin Beightol)
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 14:16:28 -0500
Subject: XJ6 Cruise Control
Guys,
I have a rather odd problem, my cruise control will "grab," if you
will, but will not hold the speed. It will pull the accelerator from
my foot, but will not hold the speed, or accelerate. I have traced
most of the wiring, but am not sure what to check on the mechanical
side. Any pointers?
Justin Beightol
1987 Jaguar XJ-6 SIII
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 13:39:18
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Apart from the cost of walnut (and other sightly timbers), solid timber has
problems with changing humidity and temperature and tends to crack as it
expands and contracts at right angles to the fibres. Plywood is structurally
very superior to solid timber because the fibres run in more than one direction.
-
- Jan
From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 19:55:13 -0700
Subject: Need advice with AC adjustment - 85 XJ-s
Hoping one of you can provide me with advice about an AC air flow problem…
The AC in my 85 XJ-S works fine (just put in a new compressor, hoses and
receiver drier), and puts out a good amount of cold air. The problem is
that in the regular AC mode some of the air is being blown out through the
windshield vents as opposed to all of it coming out through the facia vents
or the footwell vents. The flow onot the windshield vents is also uneven,
the left (driver) windshield vent lets out a barely perceptible flow; the
right windshield vent lets out a large amount of air flow. I have also
noted that the right facia vent (adjacent to the door itself) puts out a
very weak air stream.
I hate to see all that “cool air” going onto one side of the windshield,
insted of onto the passanger/driver. Any ideas on what is causing this and
how to rectify it?
Thanks,
Rob W-M
85 XJ-S
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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 3 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 197
Re: Panther cars
Re: Starter problems
Re: XK 120 - hard to start
Re[2]: Wood in Jaguars (fwd)
Re: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
Re: Wood in Jaguars
Re: Wood in Jaguars
Re: CO Analyzer / Original hoses
Re: Panther cars
Mk II Coombs Arches & Air-Con
re: XK 120 - hard to start
wood veneers and cracks
Re: Mad Majordomo (Larry Lee)
Fwd: XJ6 S2 run-on/preignition
1987 XJ6 Center Console – Escucheon?
Re[2]: Wood in Jaguars
RE:meeting a member
location of parts
From: Freemandl@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 22:09:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Panther cars
<VERY vague
memory of another model the Lima. And wasn’t there another company that
made something like the ‘J2’? I am sure that there was one based on Jag
running gear…
As usual my massage has been of no help…>
Your mwmory is not totally gone. I remember seeing one based on Jag running
gear in a Jag repair shop in Costa Mesa, Ca. It did indeed look a little
like an SS100. Car was very light weight and must have been very, very fast.
Dave the Free man
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 11:31:06
Subject: Re: Starter problems
I’d start by checking the earth (ground) connections, Dave. There’s excessive
resistance somewhere in the circuit - just the oppposite of a short. The engine
earth strap may not be making perfect contact with the chassis, for instance;
the battery negative strap ditto, for another. A good, quick trouble-shooting
method is to put a voltmeter across various parts of the cirquit and operating
the starter; bad contact will show up as a significant (more than the odd volt)
voltage. I’d start by connecting the voltmeter between the engine block and the
chassis…
Just as a f’rinstance, I once had the exact same problem with Rover 75 ('51
model), which has the battery under the rear seat. There were so many bad
contact spots in the chassis itself that I had to put a continuous earth strap
from battery to engine.
Good hunting,
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 11:22:03
Subject: Re: XK 120 - hard to start
The engine firing when you let go of the start button is a typical symptom of
ballast resistor trouble. I’m not saying that’s necessarily what you have here,
but it would be very much my first thing to check.
In principle, the ignition coil is designed to operate at around 7-8 volts,
which is what you typically get out of a 12V system while the starter draws its
100 or so amps. So at all other times, you need to have a ballast resistor in
series with the coil to drop the voltage and prevent burning it out. This
resistor should be shorted out by a relay during starting; if this is not
happening, the ballast resistor drops the coil voltage so much that you get
little or no spark.
To check this, hook up a voltmeter to the coil + terminal and watch it while
cranking; the voltage should change very little as the starter operates. If it
drops to 3-4 V, it’s time to trace the ballast bypass circuit, starting with
the #$%@& Lucas connectors…
-
- Jan
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 96 17:09:18 PDT
Subject: Re[2]: Wood in Jaguars (fwd)
|
| Anyway, I occasionally rub a little yellow car wax (Meguiar’s) over
| the polyurethane coating which protects that beautiful veneer… Does
| this help?
|
| Michael Kenrick
|
A more general question: Do you guys periodically put anything on the wood?
I’m hesitant to mess with the wood, fearing that some chemical compound
might accidentally cause the surface finish/color to fade.
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Jul 96 12:24:20
Subject: Re: Pre-ignition XJ6 II
Let me add my $0.016 ($A0.02) to this thread: this problem is basically
design-related. One possible cure is to change to one grade colder spark plugs;
this works on some cars. Inspect the face of one plug; if the insulator is
white, change to a plug with a higher heat rating (insulator protrudes less
into the combustion chamber). It should be milk chocolate coloured after a
normal speed run.
This doesn’t always work out; some combustion chambers have swirl centres where
coke collects very quickly and builds up deposits thick enough to glow. One way
to live with such engines (forget about decoking every 10,000 miles) is very
simple: give it full throttle as you switch off the ignition. The sudden inrush
of cold air helps stop the glowing, and the greater pumping power required
stops the engine rotating more quickly.
-
- Jan
From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 96 21:28:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
*** Resending note of 07/03/96 11:18
*** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FE21
*** INTERNET - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM *** IBMMAIL - AUIBMSPM ****
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Another naive question from someone who hasn’t done any woodwork:
Why not take a piece of wood, and just make a wooden dashboard out of it
with no veneer on the surface? Instead just put colored varnish on the surfac
to make it look nice. Is this not done because a regular wooden surface
would be too soft and subject to scratches and dents?
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Roger, the reason is that the really nice wood is the burl. This comes
from when a branch falls off a tree, and the spot where it came from
gets a ‘rounded’ look, much like a wart on our skin. Compared to the
overall size of the tree, there is a very small percentage of burl.
Since it looks so great, it is in high demand, and is therefore
expensive as hell.
Therefore, they use cheap junky plywood, and put a sliver of walnut
veneer on the outside. Looks great, and is 1/20th the cost of solid burl.
I personally love the chestnut burl they use in Rolls Royce/Bently. Much
lighter, like the biscuit trim in the jaguar. I’ll eventually buy some
myself and retrim my woodwork to match my biscuit connolly leather. Will
also do around all the switches and gear stick.
From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 96 15:41:38 PDT
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Another naive question from someone who hasn’t done any woodwork:
Why not take a piece of wood, and just make a wooden dashboard out of it
with no veneer on the surface? Instead just put colored varnish on the surface
to make it look nice. Is this not done because a regular wooden surface
would be too soft and subject to scratches and dents?
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 20:01:04 GMT
Subject: Re: CO Analyzer / Original hoses
On 2 Jul 1996, Ed Scripps wrote:
One, the '66 Jag doesn’t have
any manifold CO test tubes but couldn’t I use the probe up the exhaust pipes?
Yes. If it has got twin exhaust system and twin carburettors you get the
benefit of one measuring point per carb.
Where could I get a CO analyzer?
Gunson makes some inexpensive ones. I’ve got the model with the analogue
instrument powered by the car battery. It works like a dream. I paid slightly
over $100 for it here in Norway.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 20:33:40 GMT
Subject: Re: Panther cars
On Tue, 2 Jul 1996, Peter Carpenter wrote:
On 1 Jul 1996, Alan Akeister wrote:
Panther Sports cars.
This one was called a Kallista. There seems to be a distant and VERY vague
memory of another model the Lima. And wasn’t there another company that
made something like the ‘J2’?
The J72, you mean? That was an SS100 lookalike made by, indeed, Panther
in the 70s. Running gear was from Jaguar.
All in all a pretty tasteless contraption, if you ask me. Although
overshadowed in terms of vulgarity by the US inventor of the “replicar”
idea, the Excalibur. A true “Liberace” among cars.
The Lima and the Kallista is more or less the same thing, methinks. Just
different years, engines and ownership, Panther being sold to Korean
interests. Although it is also of 30s “style”, its got a character more of
its own.
The ‘J2’ was a different animal altogether. A two seater sports made by
Allard around 1950. Quicker than the XK120, but the latter was the more
handsome. Not that the J2 is ugly, it is IMHO the prettiest of the
Allards, with its distinctive scuttle shape, aero screens and front cycle
wings.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: mslade mslade@fidler.co.uk
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 96 9:39:38 BST
Subject: Mk II Coombs Arches & Air-Con
Just to let anyone know that’s interested - I spoke to Martin Robey
about Coombs style arches (they call them ‘sport’ arches) - cost is
106 pounds sterling per arch, (plus VAT at 17.5% if you live in UK).
Still too pricey for me.
Aircon systems for a Mk II - I’ve phoned PJG Auto Services in
Bristol - he was very helpful but couldn’t do it. He said the
compressor and piping would be no problem at all; special brackets
would have to be made up; and he had no idea how it would come out
into the car’s interior - he recommended contacting XK Engineering
or Vicarage to see how they’ve done it.
My problem is I know I can get it done, but in England it is a
highly desiable luxury, not really a necessity. I can’t therefore
justify spending lots of dosh on it, and would prefer to get the
know-how to be able to adapt a later system to suit, rather than
just throw money at someone to do it.
If Tony Goodall would let me have the phone number of that place in
Formby then I’ll try there.
Mark ('64 MkII)
From: pbrown@sbnsw.com.au
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 96 0:04:53 ���
Subject: re: XK 120 - hard to start
Larry,
You can always retain your old mechanical ignition system to use in case the
new-fangled gadget falls over.
I generally keep a can of ether spray in case any of my cars won’t start; a
shot of that down the air cleaner will get it going every time.
As for TV interference from copper cables, surely you turn the set off while
you’re driving!
Regards
Peter Brown
Lobotomised SII Daimler VDP
Triumph TC2500
John Elmgreen 100353.1733@CompuServe.COM Wrote:
|
|
| ---------- Forwarded Message ----------
|
| From: Larry Hodson, INTERNET:lwh3419@en.com
| TO: John Elmgreen, 100353,1733
| DATE: 30-6-96 11:00 PM
|
| RE: Re: XK group
|
| Sender: lwh3419@en.com
| Received: from en.com (en.com [204.89.181.1]) by
| dub-img-6.compuserve.com (8.6.10/5.950515)
| id WAA09185; Sun, 30 Jun 1996 22:58:53 -0400
| Received: from lwh3419.en.com (p14-ts3.en.net
| [207.78.11.45]) by en.com (8.7.4/8.7.4) with SMTP id
| XAA02783 for 100353.1733@CompuServe.COM; Sun, 30 Jun
| 1996 23:01:17 -0400 (EDT)
| Date: Sun, 30 Jun 1996 23:01:17 -0400 (EDT)
| Message-Id: 199607010301.XAA02783@en.com
| X-Sender: lwh3419@en.com (Unverified)
| X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 1.5.2
| Mime-Version: 1.0
| Content-Type: text/plain; charset=“us-ascii”
| To: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@CompuServe.COM
| From: Larry Hodson lwh3419@en.com
| Subject: Re: XK group
|
| At 08:13 AM 5/28/96 EDT, you wrote:
| >Dear Larry & Denise, I saw from the WWW site that you
| are the owners of an
| >XK120. If you want to join our little group of XK owners
| who swap email re the
| >cars, let me know. Regards, John Elmgreen XK120, XK150
| >
| >Dear John
|
| I thought you or one in your group could help me on this
| problem.
| I’ve owned my '54 120 for about 14 years. The whole time
| I’ve had
| it I’ve always had trouble starting it after it has set
| for more than
| 3 or 4 days. I’ve tuned it by the book and have others
| check it out
| but to no avail. It seems that if I release the starter
| button at just
| the right time( top of the piston stroke) it’ll catch and
| run. Other-
| wise it’s a slow grind untill the battery runs down and I
| get the
| jumper cables out. It seems as if all the battery amps are
| going to
| the starter motor and not to the plugs.
|
| I’ve tried a new coil but that didn’t help. The batteries
| are good.
| I thought I try another set of plug wires. Perhaps Packard
| 440 solid
| copper wires although I heard they can cause radio and TV
| inter-
| ferance. My present wires are the everyday ones with
| graphide or
| whatever centers. I’ve got the stock distributor and point
| setup
| in use but I was wondering if I should put in an
| electronic one.
| My buddy Joe Burke up near Boston has a '53 120 Coupe and
| he was
| able to start his car in below zero weather when he lived
| in Clev-
| land. Other people tell me not to install it because if it
| fails
| then you are stuck for sure out in the middle of nowhere,
| wheras
| if your points screw up just reset them and you are back
| on the
| road. I would prefer to cure this without installing
| electronic
| ignition if possible.
|
| If anyone has any ideas please drop me a line.
|
| Larry Hodson
| lwh3419@en.com
|
|
|
From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 1996 21:09:00 -0700
Subject: wood veneers and cracks
I might as well add my two bits of speculation on the cracking veneer
debate…
The wood trim on my 85 XJ-S appears to be cracking. However upon closer
inspection I can tell that it is not the veneer that is cracking, it is the
polyurethane coating on top that is cracking. The reason?.. shrinkage and
differential contraction/expansion; as the volatile compounds in the
polyurethane evaporate over time the coating shrinks, particularly if it is
thick in order to give it that nice deep shine… Extremes of heating,
cooling and humidity really help this process along nicely by mechanically
contracting and expanding that nice, thick, shiny layer of polyurethane (or
lacquer, or varnish)!!! In essence what is happening is that you have this
sandwich composed of three layers (actually more, but they can be lumped)of
different materials with differing expansion properties. The underlying
layer is plywood (actually a sub-sandwich itself; non-comestible variety),
the middle layers is the actual veneer (very thin and tightly glued to the
plywood), and the polyurethane. The plywood is porous and thick and the
veneer, because it is well glued to the plywood, might as well be part of
it. Both of these layers are subject to much less contraction/expansion
than the thinner, more flexible, more dense, polyurethane. The result is
the poyurethane shrinks and expands at a much faster rate than the
underlying part of the wood sandwich. In addition, over time and without
any mechanical shrinking/expanding the polyurethane will dry as the
volatiles in it evaporate. This is a slow process, but… give it enough
time, and/or the right conditions and you became the proud owner of genuine,
premium, jguar cracked trim.
One indication of this process is the fact that most of these cracks will
be perpendicular to the long axis of the piece of wood; the long axis is the
direction in which you’ll get the greatest amount of shrinkage. Once the
shrinkage crack develops, the UV component of light gets through it and
begins to darken the wood itself. In addition the crak now provides direct
acces to the wood for air and any moisture that it may have. Over time the
veneer layer under the polyurethane crack itself drys, weakens, and perhaps
lifts off the plywood onto which it is glued, and the crack travels through
the vener and into the wood.
Most of the problems with the wood in my car are of this nature. None of the
problems appear to be related to the veneer separting from the underlying
plywood “base”. A few of the problem spots are related to the plywood
separating along its own layers (parallel to the face of the plywood); this
is definetely a quality problem. Good old jag used poor grade plywood;
period. One additional problem spot in my case is related to the butt joint
(no jokes please) between two adjacent pieces of veneer on the same trim
piece, separating. This problem appears to be due to distortion of the
plywood (its got a slight curl or curvature)onto which the veneer is glued.
Again this is also a quality problem; not weith the veneer but with the
underlying plywood.
So, what to do? I am opting for re-finishing all of my trim pieces. Once I
get the new polyurethane coat on then I intend to follow the practice
described by one of the other commenters (?) on this subject: occasionally
apply a light coating of furniture grade oil onto the wood and or follow it
with a light wax. Polyurethane has porosity; applying the oil will slow the
evaporation of the volatile compounds in it. A wax coating will seal the
pores and will prevent the evaporation of the volatiles in the polyurethane
or the furniture oil that does manage to soak in.
Hope I haven’t bored all of you…
Rob W-M
85 XJ-S
From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 08:34:44 +0100
Subject: Re: Mad Majordomo (Larry Lee)
Naw, it’s just a Lucas mail list!
C
From: Jag140@aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 10:26:32 -0400
Subject: Fwd: XJ6 S2 run-on/preignition
Forwarded message:
Subj: XJ6 S2 run-on/preignition
Date: 96-07-03 10:21:26 EDT
From: Jag 140
To: jag-lover@sn.no
I believe someone asked about “running-on” on his Series II XJ6… the engine
kept running after the ignition was shut off… I believe Most Ser2 in the US
have carbs, though a few later cars had fuel injection. For the carb models,
I don’t have my workshop manual right at hand, but I recall distictly that
this model incorporates an anti-run-on valve… It is electrically activated
for a few seconds when the ignition is turned off… it is located on the side
of the inner wing in the engine compartment and has 1" hoses and electrical
wires running to it. It somehow equalized the air pressure on both sides of
the
needle/jet assy in the carbs and therefore gas no longer flowed into the
engine. It works, as long as it is working. I’ve never had run-on problems
in my 75XJ6L…
I’ll be interested to know if this is the problem…
Michael Riley
From: david_gruber@fmc.com (DAVID GRUBER)
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 09:01:33 -0500
Subject: 1987 XJ6 Center Console – Escucheon?
Justin -
I just replaced my center console with new wood, so I know about this one. In
order to remove the center console, you need to remove the screw you mentioned
on the window switch panel, but also the lid (hinges at rear) and tray of
storage compartment between the seats. With the storage compartment lid and
tray removed, you can disconnect the window switches behind the switch plate.
Push the switch plate forward (toward the engine) and lift. The center (wood)
console and switch plate are attached and come out as one unit, but the wood
piece fits under the radio a bit, so you have to pivot it. You do not need to
mess with the gearshift at all to remove this piece - in fact, if you do, it is
VERY difficult to get the retaining clip back into place for the cruise control
after it has been removed.
Hopefully, that helps. Good luck.
Regards,
Dave
'87 XJ6-III
From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 10:35:19 -0400
Subject: Re[2]: Wood in Jaguars
David is exactly correct. The unfortunate truth is that proper maintenance
of natural materials requires a much higher level of “audience
participation” than many of us are accustomed to give.
The wood in my '88 XJS looks like the day it was made, despite the higher
than normal exposure (it’s a convertible). There is a slight amount of
lightening I attribute to sun bleaching, but it’s only noticeable if you
remove a switch bezel so you can directly compare exposed and unexposed
areas. The wood continues to look good for the simple reason that I take
care of it. Every time the car is washed the wood gets cleaned, followed
by a light oiling with Tung oil. I’ve used this stuff for years on antique
musket stocks to keep the walnut in good shape. When the car gets waxed, I
also wax the wood with a good grade of paste wax intended for fine
furniture.
In a similar vein, the leather of your seats need regular cleaning and
applications of nourishment to keep it supple. I use the same high quality
saddle soap and other products that my daughter uses on her saddles and
tack.
You can get by with not caring for vinyl and plastic, but natural materials
will deteriorate if not cared for properly.
MikeC
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Author: DavidZ333@aol.com at INTERNET
Date: 07/02/96 06:26 PM
Skipping the question of veneer as opposed to thick wood, inherently prone to
splitting :
if you want plastic impregnated wood in your cars - and ancient salvaged
sailing ships - that is your choice. However, some things in life require
the active involvement of intelligent life in order to maintain a level of
quality.
This does require avoidance of stressful situations such as daily intense
sunlight and yahoo pseudomechanics. There is no substitute for TLC, tung
oil, and soft natural fibers.
David
From: JW Beckmeyer 73131.3076@CompuServe.COM
Date: 03 Jul 96 11:06:40 EDT
Subject: RE:meeting a member
In the near future… I will be traveling north from Texas
to Michigan in the first two weeks in September to scope out
the possibilitys of purchasing a summer home there and would be
most happy to meet with anyone along that route, or in Michigan
who would communicate with me privately off the list preferably
to keep the bandwidth down.
Jim,
I certainly hope you’ll have time to stop by. I live in Union City, which is in
Southern Michigan, about 30 minutes north of the Indiana border.
What kind of property are you looking for? Where?
Best regards,
Jim Beckmeyer
90 Sov
60 Mk II
46 Ercoupe (gone but not forgotten)
From: Harjit Singh harjit@kinkos.com
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 08:16:36 -0700
Subject: location of parts
I have a 72 XJ6 and am trying to locate the sunroof cables and weather
stripping around the sunroof. Would anybody out there know where to
obtain them in the states or elswhere? I would really appreciate it.
Harjit
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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 4 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 198
Re: location of parts
Re: Re[2]: Wood in Jaguars
catalytic converters
Wood in Jaguars
Re: Wood in Jaguars
Ignition Coils on XJ6
RE: catalytic converters
1984 VDP XJ6 interior trim question
FW: Re: Wood in Jaguars
RE: catalytic converters
My list of wants/needs for S3 VDP 1984
New Member
RE: catalytic converters
sunroof
Re: catalytic converters
Re: Ignition Coils on XJ6
DENVER GET TOGETHER at PINTS PUB 7/9/96
Re: Re[2]: Wood in Jaguars
From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 10:12:02 MDT
Subject: Re: location of parts
I have a 72 XJ6 and am trying to locate the sunroof cables and weather
stripping around the sunroof. Would anybody out there know where to
obtain them in the states or elswhere? I would really appreciate it.
I have a series 2 XJ12 that has a sunroof. Through much searching I
have determined that: 1) the series I and series II did not have
factory sunroofs even if they look factory (as mine does) 2) You are
on your own to try to find parts for these sunroofs. I reccomend
trying to fit some rubber weatherstripping from some supplier like
Steele or some other restoration supplier. Unfortunately, there is
no good solution and you will need some luck and creativity to find
parts.
Kind regards,
Jim Cantrell
76 XJ12C
76 XJ6C
66 Alpine 2.8L
From: Mark Stiles ittmjs@staffs.ac.uk
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 18:04:18 +0100
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Wood in Jaguars
On Wed, 3 Jul 1996 10:35:19 -0400 Mike Cogswell M.Cogswell@zds.com wrote:
Every time the car is washed the wood gets cleaned, followed
by a light oiling with Tung oil.
Er…, what’s Tung oil - is it something we might call something
else???
Mark
90 Daimler 4.0
Mark Stiles - Academic Development Manager
IT Services
Staffordshire University
01785 353410
From: “Ed Freige” edf@borrego.asd.sgi.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 10:55:25 -0700
Subject: catalytic converters
Hello -
Am currently in the process of identifying a path of least resistance for
replacing/removing my catalytic converters on my '85 XJS. I realize that they
are very much required in California, USA, but after pricing them installed
through the friendly Midas muffler shop, and buying direct from a distributor I
find that both prices are astronomical for a vehicle with only 75K miles.
Midas quoted $1100 for the replacement and installation, the distributor quoted
a price of $362 per side ($724). I know that I can weld or have welded ($60) a
couple pieces of pipe and solve the problem for at least 18 months when it is
once again time for a smog inspection. And just maybe the inspector wouldn’t
bend down far enough to see the missing units and just maybe it would pass the
emissions.
The other side is - am I being a responsible citizen by removing the units and
allowing the pollutants into our atmosphere unchecked to cause harm to all of
us. So I read a little bit about fuels - leaded versus non-leaded and came
upon some startling statements. Unleaded fuel used in autos without catalytic
convertors are more toxic to humans than leaded fuels used in autos (of course
without catalytic convertors). Apparently the lead in leaded fuels being
heavier that air when burned falls to the ground when spent from the exhaust
system, whereas the benzine that is used in unleaded fuels actually floats in
the air and is more damaging to those that are around the highways. And also
catalytic convertors need about 15 miles of driving to warm up to the high
temperature required to burn off the benzine. This all tells me that the
majority of commuters today are not travelling far enough for the convertors to
actually operate correctly. And that many people are running new vehicles with
high mileage that have ineffective convertors and are basically spewing this
benzine into the air. This is a quick thumb nail overview of my findings and
I am sure this area is wide open to several differing opinions.
Bottom line - what are all of you doing with regards to this expendable
catalytic converter(s)? Are you spending the $750+ each and every 75K miles,
or are you running on plugged up systems, or are you removing the units?
I would really appreciate your feedback/comments.
Thanks,
Ed.
'66 E Type w/lump
'85 XJS w/o lump
From: jackb@epix.net (Jack Bednarski)
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 14:06:39 -0400
Subject: Wood in Jaguars
The reason a veneer is used on the dash of Jaguars and other fine
automobiles is because it is more stable than solid pieces of wood. A
veneer is a select piece of wood usually the finest piece that can be found.
A solid piece of wood is prone to splitting, cracking and delaminating. For
a solid piece to be stable it has to be cut into small strips and laminated
together with the grain laid in opposite directions. Quite acceptable for
log cabins and rustic furniture settings, but not for elegant motor cars.
To prevent drying and sun damage use “Guardsman Furniture Polish” with UV
protection. It cleans and nourishes the finish. This is not a commercial,
but for informational purposes only.
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 13:24:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Wood in Jaguars
Seems we are missing something here. No mater where the stuff comes from
and no matter how strong it is, and no matter how rare it is, if you had
something that you could sell in thin slices at big money or sell in big
slabs for about the same price each, wouldnt you slice it as thin as
possible to maximize profit?
Jim
===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"
John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 13:24:07 -0500
Subject: Ignition Coils on XJ6
It would seem that the ignition coil on the XJ6 is less than perfect and
should be replaced as soon as possible. But since most of the XJ6s on the
list have been previously owned, the question is, how does one determine if
one has the orriginal ignition coil or if the po has already replaced it?
Jim
===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"
John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 10:59:09 -0700
Subject: RE: catalytic converters
An XJS requires catalysts to run anywhere near clean. Without them =
you are looking at 200+ PPM of Hydrocarbons. My Porsche 944, without =
the catalyst on, runs as clean as a S3 XJ6. There are aftermarket =
converters available. It will still probably run around $350 a side. =
As for most people not driving enough to heat up their cats, that is =
just plain B.S.. Even a S3 XJ6 only takes about 2 minutes in average =
weather to light off even when it is just sitting there idling. Jumping =
in the car and taking off even speeds up the process. The latest cars =
are so clean that you can stick your face in the tailpipe and only =
breath in water vapor.
From: Ed Freige[SMTP:edf@borrego.asd.sgi.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 1996 10:55 AM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Cc: edf@giraffe.asd.sgi.com
Subject: catalytic converters
Hello -
Am currently in the process of identifying a path of least resistance =
for
replacing/removing my catalytic converters on my '85 XJS. I realize that =
they
are very much required in California, USA, but after pricing them =
installed
through the friendly Midas muffler shop, and buying direct from a =
distributor I
find that both prices are astronomical for a vehicle with only 75K =
miles.
Midas quoted $1100 for the replacement and installation, the distributor =
quoted
a price of $362 per side ($724). I know that I can weld or have welded =
($60) a
couple pieces of pipe and solve the problem for at least 18 months when =
it is
once again time for a smog inspection. And just maybe the inspector =
wouldn’t
bend down far enough to see the missing units and just maybe it would =
pass the
emissions.
The other side is - am I being a responsible citizen by removing the =
units and
allowing the pollutants into our atmosphere unchecked to cause harm to =
all of
us. So I read a little bit about fuels - leaded versus non-leaded and =
came
upon some startling statements. Unleaded fuel used in autos without =
catalytic
convertors are more toxic to humans than leaded fuels used in autos (of =
course
without catalytic convertors). Apparently the lead in leaded fuels =
being
heavier that air when burned falls to the ground when spent from the =
exhaust
system, whereas the benzine that is used in unleaded fuels actually =
floats in
the air and is more damaging to those that are around the highways. And =
also
catalytic convertors need about 15 miles of driving to warm up to the =
high
temperature required to burn off the benzine. This all tells me that =
the
majority of commuters today are not travelling far enough for the =
convertors to
actually operate correctly. And that many people are running new =
vehicles with
high mileage that have ineffective convertors and are basically spewing =
this
benzine into the air. This is a quick thumb nail overview of my =
findings and
I am sure this area is wide open to several differing opinions.
Bottom line - what are all of you doing with regards to this expendable
catalytic converter(s)? Are you spending the $750+ each and every 75K =
miles,
or are you running on plugged up systems, or are you removing the units?
I would really appreciate your feedback/comments.
Thanks,
Ed.
'66 E Type w/lump
'85 XJS w/o lump
From: Chris Howard christopher@netmanage.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 96 12:18:55 GST
Subject: 1984 VDP XJ6 interior trim question
I am attempting to replace the plastic transmission face plate-
a better description would be the flat plastic peice with the PRN21 on it.
Im running into the problem where the lucas cruise control switch
will not fit unless I unsolder the wires connected to the switch so
that I can fit the switch from the top of the face plate piece, because of the crown on top of the switch it will only go in from the top…
My main concern is that I prefer not to solder any wiring and maybe there
is some alternative way of doing this ?
The good news is at 96K and 7 months this is still the best car I
have ever owned, sure it requires alot of effort, but its worth it.
Thanks again in advance !
Chris
Christopher Howard
E-mail: christopher@netmanage.com
7/3/96 12:18:55 PM
Chameleon - The Best Windows TCP/IP applications
Chameleon - The Best MacOS TCP/IP applications
WebSurfer - The Best Web Browser
ECCO - The Best Workgroup productivity tool
Swift - The Best Terminal Emulation Suite
NewtWatch - The Best Desktop Management
From: Chris Howard christopher@netmanage.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 96 12:29:04 GST
Subject: FW: Re: Wood in Jaguars
I just found a crack on the lower piece of wood above my radio, im sick about it, my car was perfect when i took delivery. Tung oil will be added to my regimin immediately… also found a slight crack near the right air vent-- my nerves.
- — On Wed, 3 Jul 1996 09:19:32 +0200 (MST) Volker Nadenau nadenau@ipers1.e-technik.uni-stuttgart.de wrote:
Hi Roger,
taking a piece of massive wood would not be a good solution. It also will
crack under the heavy duty environmental conditions in a car. (enourmous
temperature range and not enough humidity in summer).
The effect is just the other way around. Thicker layers will crack easier,
because it can not move to reduce the inner forces. The only way the avoid
cracking as much as possible is to use very high quality venneer, which
has been
cut in thin layers years before use in a car und was stored under constant
temperature und humidity, on a multilayer base.
Volker
Another naive
question from someone who hasn’t
done any woodwork: >
Why not take a piece of wood, and just make a wooden dashboard out of it
with no veneer on the surface? Instead just put colored varnish on the surface
to make it look nice. Is this not done because a regular wooden surface
would be too soft and subject to scratches and dents?–
Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
Volker Nadenau Phone: ++49 711 685 7200
University of Stuttgart Fax : ++49 711 685 7143
Institute for Physical Electronics Internet: nadenau@ipers1.e-technik.uni-stuttgart.de
Pfaffenwaldring 47
70569 Stuttgart
Germany
- -----------------End of Original Message-----------------
Christopher Howard
E-mail: christopher@netmanage.com
7/3/96 12:29:05 PM
Chameleon - The Best Windows TCP/IP applications
Chameleon - The Best MacOS TCP/IP applications
WebSurfer - The Best Web Browser
ECCO - The Best Workgroup productivity tool
Swift - The Best Terminal Emulation Suite
NewtWatch - The Best Desktop Management
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 14:35:48 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: RE: catalytic converters
On Wed, 3 Jul 1996, Michael P. Neal wrote:
The latest cars are so clean that you can stick your face in the
tailpipe and only breath in water vapor. >
Thank you, no, but be my guest! If possible, be sure and tell us about
the “trip.”
New cars are quite clean, as exhaust goes, but unless you are burning
hydrogen with (only) oxygen–in the right proportion, of course–you
will have more than water in the exhaust. Perverters aren’t THAT good.
They can’t just eliminate elements like carbon, nitrogen, sulphur, etc.
that an air-gasoline engine sends them.
Larry Lee
From: Chris Howard christopher@netmanage.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 96 12:47:20 GST
Subject: My list of wants/needs for S3 VDP 1984
Heres my current fix/wish list :
Radio is dead, not original-- this is a mystery, happened after i had the
right rocker panel repainted… 
Antenna mast and motor bad, replaced with Welsh Jaguar replacement
antenna, friend (ha !) told me this is not the right replacement for the
car… is there an FAQ on this ?
Dash cracked… enough said, lesson learned-- tung oil purchased today.
Wire wheels, read FAQ pros and cons… im going with the wheels thanks
again for the reference to British wire wheels
SHOW STOPPER : hot california days and my air blows semi cold and
towards the left side of the large main vent, it blows warm air
this one bothers me. Air conditioning fixed by PO…a year ago-
Headliner piping or edging is rotting and can be seen from rear of car
should I replace the piping first ?
Christopher Howard
E-mail: christopher@netmanage.com
7/3/96 12:47:20 PM
Chameleon - The Best Windows TCP/IP applications
Chameleon - The Best MacOS TCP/IP applications
WebSurfer - The Best Web Browser
ECCO - The Best Workgroup productivity tool
Swift - The Best Terminal Emulation Suite
NewtWatch - The Best Desktop Management
From: Steve Patchel spatchel@radford.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 13:36:55 -0700
Subject: New Member
Jaguar Owners:
Starting tomorrow I will be the proud owner of a 70 E Type Roadster. Car has
only had 2 owners with the previous owner having had the car since 1973.
The car has rebuilt engine, front suspension, and gear box. New exhaust,
interior (except dash) and top. Its a “California car” and as a result has
no rust. Paint is in good condition (white) and will need to be redone in
next 4(?) years.
I am “somewhat familiar” with British Cars as I am the only owner of a 71
MGB and have had most of the “adventures” associated with owning a British
Car of this vintage.
I have driven the car a number of times and it is very smooth through all of
the gears, no strange noises, and even with 3 SU’s it idles well. (My MG
should do this well with only 2 SU’s.) AC, however does not work.
I am looking for an “owners manual” and workshop manual. I do not intend to
do a lot of the work myself, but having the manuals does help me understand
the car, etc.
The car will continue to “live” in Northern Calif, near Palo Alto. It has
been serviced by European Stables in Redwood City.
Input on sources for parts, service, etc. is much appreciated as is any
other info.
Thanks in advance
Stephen Patchel
Consulting Practice Leader
Radford Associates
voice: 408-321-2540
fax: 408-321-2650
From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 16:43:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: RE: catalytic converters
Bottom line - what are all of you doing with regards to this expendable
catalytic converter(s)? Are you spending the $750+ each and every 75K miles,
or are you running on plugged up systems, or are you removing the units?
I would really appreciate your feedback/comments.
I have developed a method for “rebuilding” the catalytic converters
although it is not recommended for use yet since I still haven’t
figured out how to put the new catalyst back into the old canisters.
Anyway, I will share the method for removing the catalyst in case you
can figure out the rest.
Not all models have the same cats. The description I give here
pertains to mine, which is a 1987 XJ-S. The 1987 XJ-S has
a larger diameter (say 5") cat in each downpipe followed by smaller
(say 4" dia) cats directly following. Where the downpipes connect
to the exhaust manifold, each tube contains a roll of corrigated
metal material (like a jellyroll) that is held in place by two small
spotwelded pins. If someone wanted to remove these rolls, which
incidentally would appear to significantly restrict exhaust flow,
they could cut the rolls using a small chisel or drill straight
down past the welded in pins. Once this is done screws driven into
the rolls can be used to extract them from each pipe. Now the cat
canisters can be cleared through the pipe ends. The material in the
canisters is a ceramic-like honeycomb that the exhaust flow passes
through longitudinally. It is readily broken up into chunks and
extracted through the pipe ends. An extra long shafted 1" spade
drill would work well for this. Drill out the center of the
ceramic first and work toward the edges. The ceramic is surrounded
with a steel mesh which will wrap around the drill and prevent you
getting too close to the edges. At this point any remaining material
can be knocked out with a long chisel and the mesh extracted with
a hook or long nose pliers. Now simply figure out how to get new
honeycomb material and how to get it into the cannisters and reassemble.
In the mean time, while you are figuring this out, the empty cannisters
look just like legal catalytic converters. In CA and some other states
more than a simple visual inspection is done so they may not pass
inspection. If you can get them to pass, I am sure everyone on
the list would love to hear about it. You may also want to consider
Micheal Neal has to say about the XJ-S releasing a lot of hydrocarbons
without cats.
Thomas E. Alberts
From: allporsche@cajunnet.com (Bart G. Denys)
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 16:01:53 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: sunroof
Hi guys!
Being new to jags, I find lots of interesting things on the list. But now,
I need your help.
I purchased 86 XJ6 VDP about a month ago and have only to fix a few minor
electrical glitches(suprise!).I have fixed a rusted aeriel motor into
perfect working condition by tearing down the motor, blasting all parts, and
then rebuilding with the same parts. I have also replaced the windscreen
washer for $8, and it also now works perfectly.(My local jag mechanic said I
could spend $200 and it still would not work) The next thing I would like
to work on is the sunroof. When the car was first purchased, the roof would
open only after the car had been started for approx. 8 minutes. Now, it
won’t open even after thirty. I have tried turning off radio and a/c to no
avail. The voltage gauge reads 13 volts. Door locks work appropriately. I
have looked into the manual, but I find that that is of no help(no
troubleshooting guides). I do know that power to the motor is provided via
a thermal circuit breaker. Since this breaker is shared with the door
locks, and the locks work, this is probably not the problem. Any
suggestions as to where I should start? Where is that thermal circuit
breaker located? Otherwise, the car is a dream.
Many thanks,
Stacy
86 XJ6 VDP
From: nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu (Nikolai Chitaev)
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 16:13:17 -0600
Subject: Re: catalytic converters
Bottom line - what are all of you doing with regards to this expendable
catalytic converter(s)? Are you spending the $750+ each and every 75K miles,
or are you running on plugged up systems, or are you removing the units?
I would really appreciate your feedback/comments.Thanks,
Ed.
This suprise me. 75K and cats are gone? Are you sure? While the appr.350
per side seems a right price. They are really expensive (contains
platinum).
Nikolai A. Chitaev, PhD.
<<87`XJ6 4.2L, EFI, BRG>>
{nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu}
{http://128.252.119.253}
St.Louis, Missouri, USA
From: nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu (Nikolai Chitaev)
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 16:15:04 -0600
Subject: Re: Ignition Coils on XJ6
It would seem that the ignition coil on the XJ6 is less than perfect and
should be replaced as soon as possible. But since most of the XJ6s on the
list have been previously owned, the question is, how does one determine if
one has the orriginal ignition coil or if the po has already replaced it?Jim
Just replacing it, Jim ;-).
(Joke)
Nikolai A. Chitaev, PhD.
<<87`XJ6 4.2L, EFI, BRG>>
{nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu}
{http://128.252.119.253}
St.Louis, Missouri, USA
From: jwh@dwrock.dw.lucent.com
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 96 15:39:00 PDT
Subject: DENVER GET TOGETHER at PINTS PUB 7/9/96
We are having a get together in Denver, CO on July 9th at 7:pm MST at PINTS
PUB
221 W. 13Th Ave 303-534-7543.
For those interested, please give my a e-mail or a call before Tuesday
Afternoon if you will be attending. This way I will know how many tables to
reserve. There will even be people from out of state attending. This
should be fun time for all. This is not replacing the RMJC meeting, just a
friendly get together to meet.
( the table reservation will be under the name LUCAS )
John Himes
jwh@dw.att.com
or jhimes@attmail.com
303-538-2203
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 20:39:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Wood in Jaguars
Mark
Tung oil is a finishing oil extracted, I believe, from an Asian tree of some
sort. It is only known as Tung oil, and should be available in the UK. Here
in the US we also can get ‘Swedish Finishing Oil’, which is a mixture of
Tung Oil and other finishing oils. These products are sold here under the
“Formby’s” brand name, among others. I think Formby’s exports to the UK.
Find a shop that specializes in supplies for furniture refinishing.
If you can’t find Tung oil, you can try a mix of 40% boiled linseed oil and
60% turpentine. The finish won’t be as durable as Tung oil, but it will
preserve the wood. Just wipe it on, let it soak for a minute, then wipe it
off immediately. Be sure you use boiled oil, or it will never dry. (The
hardware store will carry both boiled and raw oil)
Mike Frank
1969 XKE 2+2
At 06:04 PM 7/3/96 +0100, you wrote:
On Wed, 3 Jul 1996 10:35:19 -0400 Mike Cogswell M.Cogswell@zds.com wrote:
Every time the car is washed the wood gets cleaned, followed
by a light oiling with Tung oil.
Er…, what’s Tung oil - is it something we might call something
else???Mark
90 Daimler 4.0Mark Stiles - Academic Development Manager
IT Services
Staffordshire University
01785 353410
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #198
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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 5 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 199
Re: Catalytic Converters
Wood in Jags
Re: catalytic converters
XJ40 - fuel consumption
Re: Re[2]: Wood in Jaguars
XJ6-SIII, rear brake rotors
XJS Catalytic converters
Re[4]: Wood in Jaguars
Status & Editing included text (fwd)
‘84 XJ6 Fog lamp switch - a correction
87 XJ-S A/C spews chunks…
420G Body
catalytic converter debate
A/C chunks: T. Alberts’ 87 XJ-S
catalytic converter debate
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 20:47:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Catalytic Converters
Premature (like under 100k miles) cat failure is usually due to a problem
further up the food chain. Check:
Air pump operation. If the cat isn’t getting oxygen it has no raw material
to catalyze, but it will overheat and die.
Oxygen sensor, if so equipped.
Tuning.
Engine condition.
Also, never, never, never use leaded fuel with a converter. It will clog the
catalyst in one or two tankfuls.
I think the responsible thing to do is replace the converter.
Mike
From: mslade mslade@fidler.co.uk
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 96 9:07:53 BST
Subject: Wood in Jags
I believe Tung oil is also called “Danish Oil” in the UK - you
should easily be able to get it from hardwood suppliers in your area
-
- look in yellow pages. You can get a nice finish on wood using
it, but it will not approach the high gloss finish achieved with a
lacquer. I have a hardwood kitchen worktop which is regularly
treated with Danish/Tung oil - it’s very hardwearing, and absorbed
into the wood, but does not get a high gloss finish.
- look in yellow pages. You can get a nice finish on wood using
Mark ('64 Mk II)
From: Mark Stiles ittmjs@staffs.ac.uk
Date: Thu, 04 Jul 1996 09:31:50 +0100
Subject: Re: catalytic converters
On Wed, 3 Jul 1996 10:55:25 -0700 Ed Freige edf@borrego.asd.sgi.com wrote:
So I read a little bit about fuels - leaded versus non-leaded and came
upon some startling statements. Unleaded fuel used in autos without catalytic
convertors are more toxic to humans than leaded fuels used in autos (of course
without catalytic convertors). Apparently the lead in leaded fuels being
heavier that air when burned falls to the ground when spent from the exhaust
system, whereas the benzine that is used in unleaded fuels actually floats in
the air and is more damaging to those that are around the highways. And also
catalytic convertors need about 15 miles of driving to warm up to the high
temperature required to burn off the benzine. This all tells me that the
majority of commuters today are not travelling far enough for the convertors to
actually operate correctly. And that many people are running new vehicles with
high mileage that have ineffective convertors and are basically spewing this
benzine into the air. This is a quick thumb nail overview of my findings and
I am sure this area is wide open to several differing opinions.
This confirms a view I have developed. Particularly in the UK,( small
congested country) the vast majority of journeys are carried out under
conditions when the convertors are not performing, as the average
journey is well less than 15miles (probably more like 5 miles!). There
was a major debate in Europe some years ago over the respective merits
of Cat Convertors vs Lean Burn technology. Lean burn seems to me the
obvious choice for european driving habits, but convertors won out.
Could it be conected to the fact that the insides of cats are all made
(in europe at least) by a UK company who hold patent?? Surely not!
Cynical - me - never!
Mark
90 Daimler 4.0 (one of the very last without cats!)
From: Peter Rebbechi <"REBBECHI PETER"@A1.MEOC02.SNO.mts.dec.com>
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 08:35:00 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: XJ40 - fuel consumption
The ‘good’ mileage that you are experiencing is not a freak of nature, but what it is intended to be.
I average 19 MPG around the city, and over 30 mpg on a run.
When I first got the Jag (3 yrs ago) the mileage was much worse, but I soon learned how to drive the car to get good economy. The secret is not in acceleration, but in braking. In essence, every time you press the brake pedal, you cost yourself fuel. Such a big and heavy car will continue for quite some distance without a foot on the ‘go’ pedal.
If you drive ahead of your self, and let the car slow down on its own, the fuel economy increases substantially.
From: Mark Stiles ittmjs@staffs.ac.uk
Date: Thu, 04 Jul 1996 09:42:45 +0100
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Wood in Jaguars
Many thanks for the info on Tung oil - I’ll investigate!
Mark
Mark Stiles - Academic Development Manager
IT Services
Staffordshire University
01785 353410
From: John Whitehead bcf@tir.com
Date: Thu, 04 Jul 1996 11:25:08 -0400
Subject: XJ6-SIII, rear brake rotors
I plan to replace the rear brake rotors on my '87 XJ6. The original rotors
are non-ventilated but have, what appears to be, a “band” sandwiched or
laminated between the rotor faces. I purchased after market rotors (from
Terry’s Jaguar) and they are solid without this composite structure. A
local car mechanic (not jaguar ) indicated that the solid rotors are much
noisier than the original equipment. Does anyone have first hand knowledge
on the pros and cons of the solid rotors?
Reguards,
John Whitehead
Marysville, Michigan USA
67 XKE Roadster (OTS?)
87 XJ6 (european spec.)
From: Jag140@aol.com
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 12:14:33 -0400
Subject: XJS Catalytic converters
Ed Freige needs to replace his catalytic converters on his XJS @ 75K miles
and is disturbed by the cost (750$-1100$). I believe the converters have a
ceraminc lattice frame inside that can fracture… mine did at about 40K
miles and plugged my exhaust system causing poor performance and increased
back pressure, blowing some EGR hoses. Converters can be rebuilt, and that is
the route I took… cost me about 300$ for both. The bodies were cut open,
innards replaced (or so I was told), and rewelded. They look fine… I think
the smog check stations do look for the converters and won’t pass you unless
they are present. (there are ways around that, you know.)
I believe good and responsible citizens do occasionally drive cars with
questionable smog compliance (eg let’s put two SUHD8’S on our series 2 XJ6!!)
and I don’t fault them for it.
Good Luck
Michael Riley
’
From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 15:53:58 -0400
Subject: Re[4]: Wood in Jaguars
Tung oil: “a pale yellow drying oil obtained from the seeds of tung trees and
used chiefly in quick-drying varnishes and paints and as a waterproofing agent”
It’s pretty readily available around here (Virginia, USA) in hardware stores.
Try a store that sells wood working supplies. The kind of store that would
cater to cabinet makers, etc.
I don’t recall seeing it called anything else. I used linseed oil many, many
years ago before I discovered Tung oil. The linseed oil was much thicker and
built up into too heavy a coating.
- -MikeC
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Wood in Jaguars
Author: Mark Stiles ittmjs@staffs.ac.uk at INTERNET
Date: 07/03/96 06:04 PM
On Wed, 3 Jul 1996 10:35:19 -0400 Mike Cogswell M.Cogswell@zds.com wrote:
Every time the car is washed the wood gets cleaned, followed
by a light oiling with Tung oil.
Er…, what’s Tung oil - is it something we might call something
else???
Mark
90 Daimler 4.0
Mark Stiles - Academic Development Manager
IT Services
Staffordshire University
01785 353410
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Thu, 04 Jul 1996 21:40:02 +0000
Subject: Status & Editing included text (fwd)
Well, it looks like the Major has calmed down again, let’s
hope it lasts. Without knowing exactly what caused the
problem it is hard to know who to shoot, but I for one
would like to apologise to everyone for the trouble. As
list-admin I got more than 500 messages in under 6 hours
yesterday, nearly made me go home and hide from the world
Anyhow, I grabbed a piece of the Brit-car list that I though
I would share with you guys. I hope a few of you might find
it rather educational. So, rather than do all the work of
writing a piece like this from scratch, I give you Mark K
Bradakis pretty lucid piece on how to edit the text of
messages you are commenting on. I echo his sentiments 100%,
be warned.
Take care,
Nick (mostly harmless)
- -------- Forwarded message --------
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 1996 20:16:50 -0400
From: Mark J Bradakis mjb@spitfire.cs.utah.edu
To: admin@autox.team.net
Subject: Editing included text
A week or two ago, I was cleaning up the MG digest, and sent a message
to the MG list asking folks to put some effort into editing the text they
include with their replies. Though it shouldn’t come as a surprise to me,
a fair number of folks seemed to have no idea what I was talking about.
So, I’ll explain myself with some examples from the various lists. I won’t
include the one from the triumph list where a digest subscriber sent in two
or three lines of comment, followed by the entire 60,000 chars of the
digest in his reply.
In the examples below, the line and char counts are probably not absolutely
exact, but close enough to illustrate my point. And my point is that it
would be nice if you folks would put some effort into not having unnecessary
volume being added to the size of the list mailings. Sure, it seems like
only a dozen or wo people are on the big lists, since they are the only ones
who submit messages, but the big lists have around 1,000 entires. An extra
10K of chars per day on each of these lists starts to add up.
One night I shrunk the tigers digest from 85,000 to just under 50,000.
Person A sent a message. Person B replied, with all of Person A’s mail
included. Person A then responded to that, with all of Person B’s message
included, which of course had the orignal message in it. Then Person B
replied to A’s reply, which included the original message, B’s reply, A’s
reply to that and then B’s latest reply. And then A chimed in again, etc.
So maybe with some education of the list members, I’ll go from spending 15
hours a week cleaning up “mailbox full” errors to only 14.9!
mjb.
1111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111
Example 1: (The infamous “Me too” message) 29 lines, 970 chars
*** Resending note of 06/24/96 16:13
“Bruce A. Krobusek” wrote:
Was there ever a consensus regarding the SOLers getting together at
one place and at one time at VTR in Albany? If so, could someone fill
me in as to the wheres and whens? If not, should we try to set
something up?To which Ken Streeter replied:
I don’t know that anything was decided, but would be looking forward to
this, too!By then I’ll probably be ready for a break too! I’m just not up for
organizing ANYTHING else right now. If someone wants to coordinate something
I’ll be happy to answer questions about available or convienent locations.So far we have Bruce, Ken, Jamie Palmer, Andy Mace and me. I would guess
that Bob Bownes, Mark B, John Lye, and Chris Kantariev would be up for
it too. Any others?Rik, chairing this thing is enough to do, Schlierer
Count me in too.
Ralph Jannelli
What could have been sent, 3 lines, about 30 chars:
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 14:31:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: rjannelli@uncc.campus.mci.net (Ralph Jannelli)
Subject: Re: SOLers at VTR
Count me in too, I’ll be at VTR.
Ralph Jannelli
*** Example 2, 60 lines, 1486 chars:
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 09:47:36 -0500
From: tom.wagner@Central.Sun.COM (Tom Wagner - Program Manager)
Subject: Re: The fancy cursor is available!
Jeffrey:
Is this a program for PC’s only or
will it work on Unix boxes also???
Let me know.
Thanks
Tom Wagner
`67’ MGB
(Various stages of restoration - All
Paint removed to metal, working on rust
removal.) Waiting for day to become daily
vehicle.
`92’ Honda Civic LX(Excellent car)
`93’ Honda Civic CDX(Moms car)
Sun Microsystems
Sun Service Division - Program Manager
Phone: 713-964-7068
Email: tom.w.wagner@Central.Sun.com
From mgs-owner@autox.team.net Thu Jun 20 09:39 CDT 1996
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 09:36:15 -0500
From: Jeff Fayne fayne@mcs.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
To: “Jason F. Dutt” simjason@ix.netcom.com
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: The fancy cursor is available!
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bitJason F. Dutt wrote:
Hello, and thanks to all who showed interest and/or offered to
help in making this little creation of mine available.You can download the MG Rotating Insignia at:
British Cars Web - Scions of Lucas or download it directly from FTP at:
ftp://ftp.team.net/solActually it’s at ftp://ftp.team.net/mgs
The file name is mglogo.zip. Unzip it into a temporary directory
and read the readme file for installation instructions.Regards,
Jay
–
Jeffrey Fayne - Systems Engineer fayne@mcs.com
INX International Ink Co. http://www.inxink.com
1130 Howard St. Elk Grove Village,IL 60007
(847)364-7774 x23 (847)364-7825 FAX
What could have been sent, maybe 10 lines. I won’t get into overly long
signatures in this message.
Jeffrey:
Is this fancy cursor program for PC’s only or
will it work on Unix boxes also???
Let me know.
Thanks
Tom Wagner tom.w.wagner@Central.Sun.com
*** Example 3, 45 lines, 1,264 chars.
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 96 20:33 EST
From: Bill Georgas 0005419627@mcimail.com
Subject: Re: TR6 Tunnel Cover Question
Ken,
I installed one of these a couple of months ago. Much better than
the disintegrating old piece, but a real trial to install. I believe
the tab you mention is supposed to be an attachment point under or
inside of the cover.
Good luck,
Bill
'72 TR6
Date: Tue Jun 25, 1996 08:47 am CDT
Source-Date: Tue, 25 Jun 1996 09:43:14 -0400
From: KMNTR6
EMS: INTERNET / MCI ID: 376-5414
MBX: KMNTR6@aol.com
TO: triumphs
EMS: INTERNET / MCI ID: 376-5414
MBX: triumphs@autox.team.net
BCC: * Bill Georgas / MCI ID: 541-9627
Subject: TR6 Tunnel Cover Question
Message-Id: 11960625134711/0003765414DC4EM
Source-Msg-Id: 960625094312_142387117@emout13.mail.aol.com
U-Sender: owner-triumphs@triumph.cs.utah.edu
Hi All-
I am having the engine of my 1974 TR6 rebuilt, so while it’s out (along with
the interior) I decided to replace the cardboard gearbox and tunnel covers
with the new “space age plastic” ones.
The question: at the center back of the tunnel there is a metal tab with
screw to attach the cover at it’s highest point? Does this tab go inside, on
top, or somewhere else on the tunnel cover. Is the tab bent down, up or
straight out? It looks like it’s the tab that a courtesy light could have
been attached to on earlier TR6s.
Thanks
Ken Nachman
Richmond Triumph Register
1957 TR3
1974 TR6
An example of one way to edit the reply, without losing the original train
of thought:
Date: Tue, 25 Jun 96 20:33 EST
From: Bill Georgas 0005419627@mcimail.com
Subject: Re: TR6 Tunnel Cover Question
Ken Nachman writes:
I am having the engine of my 1974 TR6 rebuilt, so while it’s out (along with
the interior) I decided to replace the cardboard gearbox and tunnel covers
with the new “space age plastic” ones.
The question: at the center back of the tunnel there is a metal tab with
screw to attach the cover at it’s highest point? Does this tab go inside, on
top, or somewhere else on the tunnel cover. Is the tab bent down, up or
straight out? It looks like it’s the tab that a courtesy light could have
been attached to on earlier TR6s.
Ken,
I installed one of these a couple of months ago. Much better than
the disintegrating old piece, but a real trial to install. I believe
the tab you mention is supposed to be an attachment point under or
inside of the cover.
Good luck,
Bill
'72 TR6
<<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>>
<<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>>
The JagWeb http://www.sn.no/~nick/jaguar.html <<<
From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Thu, 04 Jul 96 13:45:00 PDT
Subject: '84 XJ6 Fog lamp switch - a correction
Hi,
After I quoted the Haynes instructions on ‘disinhibiting’ the fog lamp
switch on the SIII XJ6, Gregory A. wrote me to say that Haynes was
totally wrong, the solution was quite different and everything is wired.
Well, I checked last night and Gregory is right. Here’s the deal:
0. Remove headlamp switch knob.
- Remove the headlamp switch faceplate (may not be necessary but it’s
only two Philips screws). - Locate the C-clip encircling the shaft at the front of the switch
assembly. - Remove said clip.
The headlamp switch now has the fog lamp position enabled
(disinhibited), and even shuts off the headlamps when ‘fog’ is selected.
All I need to do is get some fog lamps and install them. Anyone know
where the wires come out at the front?
Thanks, Gregory.
David
'84 XJ6 VDP in foggy Sacramento
From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 17:23:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: 87 XJ-S A/C spews chunks…
Recently, every time I start my XJ-S the A/C showers me
and any passengers present with little black chunks of
dry rotted foam rubber. This has been going
on for about a month and shows no sign of letting up. I was
sort of hoping that eventually the source would be exhausted
and the showers would stop.
My questions:
1.) What are these pieces coming from?
2.) will the A/C system still operate properly once the
foam rubber thing that is disintegrating is completely gone?
3.) How long will it continue to do this?
THomas E. Alberts
From: jaguar@gate.net
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 18:36:42 -0400
Subject: 420G Body
I accidently deleted the message from someone looking for a 420G body.
Dan Ligas has on in Tampa, Fl. I believe he is asking $500.00 for it.
You can reach him at (813) 539-0218.
Doug Bohannon jaguar@gate.net
P. O. Box 2843 Sun Coast Jaguar Club
Winter Haven, FL 33883 Predator Jaguar D-Type
(941) 293-5335 Predator Jaguar XKSS under construction
1964 MGB Race Car
1965 Land Rover 109 wagon under restoration
From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
Date: Thu, 04 Jul 1996 16:00:11 -0700
Subject: catalytic converter debate
A few comments on the catalytic converter debate…
The responsible thing to do is to replace the converters…I agree with
Michael Frank in this regard.
The converters burning up before 100k miles seems to be premature. How do
you know that the converters are bad?
The medium (ceramic material mentioned in one of the other responses; by the
way, unless you replace the ceramic material with new material the
convereter will not work as intended) “holds” the catalyst (a precious
metal, usually not always, that "accelerates the “burning”, or oxygenation,
of unburnt fuel at lower temperatures than found in the engine’s chambers).
The ceramic medium is honeycombed in order to increase the surface area of
precious metal impregnated ceramic to the exhaust flow. The ceramic medium
can become fouled by lead (if you use leaded gasoline) or by other
contaminants that shouldn’t be, but some times are found, in the fuel. More
commonly the ceramic medium can become fouled by prolonged exposure to large
amounts of unburnt fuel and insufficient oxygen (sounds like a poor fuel
mixture to me), or if oil is getting into the exhaust. First thing to do
then is to make sure that the car is properly tuned.
Temperature also plays an important role in this reaction. The purpose of
the catalyst is to result in oxygenation (burning)of the fuel at a lower
temperature and oxygen levels than are normally required in the engine’s
chambers. However, there is still a minnimum temperature that has to be
achieved for the reaction to proceed at a substantial pace. The converters
do not do much good until they warm up to operating temperature. This of
course will vary. So talking about a specific number of miles is somewhat
qualitative. However, I would agree that 15 miles on a reasonably warm day
is about the minnimum before you get to that point.
Regarding the toxic aspects of 1)“breathing exhaust from the tail pipe”,
2)lead, and 3)benzene:
1)Where do we send memorial donations to?
2)Lead from leaded gasoline is currently one of the major sources of lead in
air. Not because new lead is being added but because leaded gasoplines put
out a lot of it in the past and it clings to miniscule dust particles which
we then breathe in. Lead will attack the nervous system, particularly in
the case of youg children. One of the best things that has happened is the
elimination of leaded gasolines.
3)Benzene is a well documented carcinogen. It is very volatile and
flammable. As a result, the proportion of benzene in unburnt fuel is not
necessarily high; however other components may be quite high, and not
necessarily any better for your health. The converters, when working, take
care of this problem. However, it is likely that you still get significant
doses of benzene while fueling your car (unless the nozzle has a vapor
recovery provision), and from breathing the air inside the car (anyone
familiar with fuel odors in jags?).
Please don’t get me wrong…spending the $, whether on catalytic
converters or something else, is not always easy. In the case of the
converters, it is needed and it is the responsible thing to do.
Rob W-M
85 XJ-S
From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
Date: Thu, 04 Jul 1996 16:25:52 -0700
Subject: A/C chunks: T. Alberts’ 87 XJ-S
Each of the blower assamblies (one on ezch side) has two vents;one leads to
the air intake for the system (actually drawing fresh air in from under the
windshield wiper motor “grate” at the front of the car), the other opens
into the inside of the car and draws air from the car in the re-circulate
mode. The two vents are connected so that when one opens the other closes
proportionally. So much for function…
Each of the vents consist of a plate that butts-up against a box onto which
the blower motor is mounted. The plate for the inside vent in my 85 XJ-S
has a black foam rubber gasket that forms a seal when the vent closes; the
outside vent has a white foam rubber gasket. Based on the color that T.
Alberts’ reported,and assuming that there is actually some consistency in
the black/white foam rubber arrengement in my car, then the black bits are
probably fragments of the inside gasket. Either the gasket got loose or it
is desintegrating (mine is not particularly hardy). Pieces of the gasket
are then aspirated by the blower and spewn out through the vents.
My guess isthat the A/C will ontinue to operate OK with the gasket partially
chewed up. However the blending of the inside/outside air may be a bit out
of whack. Fixing the problem will probably require taking the blower
assambley out. This is a job that requires patience and time.
I recently had the pleasure of having to remove the passanger side blower
assambley in my car (that’s how I learned all these wonderfull details). To
get to the blower you first have to disassamble part of the underscuttle. I
would start with the passanger side since this has more room. I found that
the shop manual gave decent directions on all the things tht have to be
removed to get the blower assambley out.
If you are very flexible and thin, you might be able to inspect the gasket
on the inside vent without pulling out the blower assambley. This will
require you to lay on your back on the floor of the car (it gets easier if
you remove the front seat out; which I would reccomend if you decide to pull
the assambleys out). When the A/C is off, the vent is shut against the box
but it will open if you pull on it by hand. You might be able to inspect the
gasket then.
If anyone wants more first hand advice regarding this challenging procedure
let me know.
Rob W-M
85 XJ-S
From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
Date: Thu, 04 Jul 1996 16:27:06 -0700
Subject: catalytic converter debate
A few comments on the catalytic converter debate…
The responsible thing to do is to replace the converters…I agree with
Michael Frank in this regard.
The converters burning up before 100k miles seems to be premature. How do
you know that the converters are bad?
The medium (ceramic material mentioned in one of the other responses; by the
way, unless you replace the ceramic material with new material the
convereter will not work as intended) “holds” the catalyst (a precious
metal, usually not always, that "accelerates the “burning”, or oxygenation,
of unburnt fuel at lower temperatures than found in the engine’s chambers).
The ceramic medium is honeycombed in order to increase the surface area of
precious metal impregnated ceramic to the exhaust flow. The ceramic medium
can become fouled by lead (if you use leaded gasoline) or by other
contaminants that shouldn’t be, but some times are found, in the fuel. More
commonly the ceramic medium can become fouled by prolonged exposure to large
amounts of unburnt fuel and insufficient oxygen (sounds like a poor fuel
mixture to me), or if oil is getting into the exhaust. First thing to do
then is to make sure that the car is properly tuned.
Temperature also plays an important role in this reaction. The purpose of
the catalyst is to result in oxygenation (burning)of the fuel at a lower
temperature and oxygen levels than are normally required in the engine’s
chambers. However, there is still a minnimum temperature that has to be
achieved for the reaction to proceed at a substantial pace. The converters
do not do much good until they warm up to operating temperature. This of
course will vary. So talking about a specific number of miles is somewhat
qualitative. However, I would agree that 15 miles on a reasonably warm day
is about the minnimum before you get to that point.
Regarding the toxic aspects of 1)“breathing exhaust from the tail pipe”,
2)lead, and 3)benzene:
1)Where do we send memorial donations to?
2)Lead from leaded gasoline is currently one of the major sources of lead in
air. Not because new lead is being added but because leaded gasoplines put
out a lot of it in the past and it clings to miniscule dust particles which
we then breathe in. Lead will attack the nervous system, particularly in
the case of youg children. One of the best things that has happened is the
elimination of leaded gasolines.
3)Benzene is a well documented carcinogen. It is very volatile and
flammable. As a result, the proportion of benzene in unburnt fuel is not
necessarily high; however other components may be quite high, and not
necessarily any better for your health. The converters, when working, take
care of this problem. However, it is likely that you still get significant
doses of benzene while fueling your car (unless the nozzle has a vapor
recovery provision), and from breathing the air inside the car (anyone
familiar with fuel odors in jags?).
Please don’t get me wrong…spending the $, whether on catalytic
converters or something else, is not always easy. In the case of the
converters, it is needed and it is the responsible thing to do.
Rob W-M
85 XJ-S
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #199
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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 5 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 200
RE: catalytic converters
9-ton D type
Painting Brake Cannister
Re: Painting Brake Cannister
Re: SII/SII Master Cylinder
RE: Painting Brake Cannister
RE: New Member
XJ12 S3 aerial
XJ6 s3 Relay location?
wood in jags/ Mk II critique
RE: Brakes on S-type
New Mk II
Wood in Jaguars
RE: New Mk II
Re: sunroof
Borranis and Cintaratos
cruise switch xj6
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 5 Jul 96 10:52:08
Subject: RE: catalytic converters
Michael P. Neal:
The latest cars are so clean that you can stick your face in the
tailpipe and only breath in water vapor. >
In which case you’d suffocate, since water vapour is no substitute for oxygen
…
Seriously, though, there was a test by SAAB that showed that what came out of
its exhaust pipe on a drive in central London was cleaner than what went in the
air intake. Whatever that says about the SAAB, it says more about the stuff the
poor bastards in central London have to breathe…
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 5 Jul 96 11:32:00
Subject: 9-ton D type
The Museum of Fire in Penrith, NSW, Australia is selling a number of surplus
1969-72 Dennis type D fire engines (crew-cab tank pumpers); they have six in
excellent running order and 20 or so in varying states of disrepair. I’ve put
in a ridiculous bid ($1,000) for one of the good ones; if I get it, it’s a real
bargain and if I don’t, I won’t lose any sleep.
And why am I telling the Jag-lovers this? They are powered by 4.2L XJ engines,
that’s why (two SUs, five-speed manual with PTO for the pump). Now, wouldn’t
that be just the thing to round out any Jaguar collection?
-
- Jan
From: rjs2v@uva.pcmail.virginia.edu
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 21:07:17 -0400
Subject: Painting Brake Cannister
I am cleaning up the engine compartment of our XK150, and want to
paint the cannisters or reservours which hold the hydralic fluid
for the brakes and the clutch – and the engine bay around them.
But the last time I tried that, there must have been a residual
of hydralic luid on the cannisters, and on the wall, or else I
spilled a little bit of fluid, topping off. That styff must be
tough on paint. Any one have any ideas as to how to claen those
ares, to nuetralize the hydrolic fluid? Turpintine? Washing
Soda? Thanks, in advance, for your advice.
Bob Sack
59 XK 150 DHC
86 BRG XJ6
Robert J. Sack
phone 804 924 4814
fax 804 924 4859
From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 11:33:46 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: Painting Brake Cannister
Bob Shack asks,
I am cleaning up the engine compartment of our XK150, and want to
paint the cannisters or reservours which hold the hydralic fluid
for the brakes and the clutch – and the engine bay around them.
But the last time I tried that, there must have been a residual
of hydralic luid on the cannisters, and on the wall, or else I
spilled a little bit of fluid, topping off. That styff must be
tough on paint. Any one have any ideas as to how to claen those
ares, to nuetralize the hydrolic fluid? Turpintine? Washing
Soda? Thanks, in advance, for your advice.
I generally resort to flushing with copious amounts of water. I
have spilled brake fluid onto my Daimler’s engine bay paint many times
over the past few years and have had no problems whatsoever. I resprayed
the car with (what we call here) a “two pack baked enamel” paint which
has managed to resist most things.
In late 1992, I returned from a two week holiday to find that a can of
paint stripper had leaked onto the boot of my car. It blistered the top
coat but didn’t managed to damage the undercoat. I suppose that’s why the
undercoat cost $300 for 4 litres plus hardener…
Remember to throw away brake fliud soaked rags as soon as you have finished
using them. There’s nothing worse than leaving a rag sitting on top of
paintwork which you thought only had a bit of oil on it.
regards,
Robert
Robert Dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **
From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 11:37:41 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: SII/SII Master Cylinder
Joe Reilly asked a long time ago,
Does anyone have experience swaping the brake master cylinder in SIIXJ6’s with a SIII’s? A dealer tells me the two SII cylinders (remote and
overhead reservoir) are interchangeable. It’s just a matter of changing
the seals and hoses. If so, I could save at least $100 US. The SIII is
even cheaper.
I have used a SIII flat rectangular reservoir (I always have trouble spelling
that word on my SII master cylinder for years now. With the correct seals,
it is trivial to mount.
regards,
Robert
Robert Dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **
From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 08:29 +0200
Subject: RE: Painting Brake Cannister
Hi,
I would take them off the car and stick them in the dishwasher.
Frans.
I am cleaning up the engine compartment of our XK150, and want to
paint the cannisters or reservours which hold the hydralic fluid
for the brakes and the clutch – and the engine bay around them.
But the last time I tried that, there must have been a residual
of hydralic luid on the cannisters, and on the wall, or else I
spilled a little bit of fluid, topping off. That styff must be
tough on paint. Any one have any ideas as to how to claen those
ares, to nuetralize the hydrolic fluid? Turpintine? Washing
Soda? Thanks, in advance, for your advice.Bob Sack
59 XK 150 DHC
86 BRG XJ6Robert J. Sack
phone 804 924 4814
fax 804 924 4859=20
From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 09:03 +0200
Subject: RE: New Member
Hello Stephen, One of the manuals I’ve got for the E-type is called "Bentley=20=
Official Jaguar E-type" or something like that. It is an American=20
publication based on the factory manuals and has a very handy format for=20
taking in the car on a trip for use in case of trouble by yourself or a=20
garage. You can buy it at the Jaguar specialists in your area like XK=20
Unlimited.
Frans.
I have driven the car a number of times and it is very smooth through all=20=
of
the gears, no strange noises, and even with 3 SU’s it idles well. (My MG
should do this well with only 2 SU’s.) AC, however does not work.I am looking for an “owners manual” and workshop manual. I do not intend=20
to
do a lot of the work myself, but having the manuals does help me=20
understand
the car, etc.The car will continue to “live” in Northern Calif, near Palo Alto. It has
been serviced by European Stables in Redwood City.Input on sources for parts, service, etc. is much appreciated as is any
other info.Thanks in advance
Stephen Patchel
Consulting Practice Leader
Radford Associates
voice: 408-321-2540
fax: 408-321-2650=20
From: Volker Nadenau nadenau@ipers1.e-technik.uni-stuttgart.de
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 09:28:59 +0200 (MST)
Subject: XJ12 S3 aerial
Hi anybody,
last night I tried to work out why my aerial is not working since a few
days. I found that the relay is working properly and the power is switched
to the input of the motor. Therefore I opened the housing of the aerial
motor and I found the motor itself in good condition and working if I
connected the 12V directly to the rotor. The reason for the fault is the
end position switch. The contacts are made of copper and were totally
corroded due to water in the housing. The little hose, which should drain
the water was clogged up. One of the contacts cracked and therefore this
switch can not be repaired.
My question is now: Does anybody have an used aerial eventually exchanged
for other faults than the switch. I do not want to echange the whole
aerial, because the switch is a few bucks worth.
Volker
Volker Nadenau Phone: ++49 711 685 7200
University of Stuttgart Fax : ++49 711 685 7143
Institute for Physical Electronics Internet: nadenau@ipers1.e-technik.uni-stuttgart.de
Pfaffenwaldring 47
70569 Stuttgart
Germany
From: DaveofNJ@aol.com
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 06:48:34 -0400
Subject: XJ6 s3 Relay location?
Can anyone tell me where the relay for the heater/ac blower is? I posted a
message last week, but didn’t get any response. Perhaps someone has a
service manual or knows from experience where to locate this critter.
Thanks,
Dave
From: mslade mslade@fidler.co.uk
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 96 9:26:53 BST
Subject: wood in jags/ Mk II critique
DavidZ wondered if the Tung Oil finish is acceptable. Personally I
wouldn’t accept it, but I wouldn’t dream of dictating to others.
As regards the Mk II it is quite simply wonderful. I use it as my
everyday transport. I got a good ex-South Africa car which had
been fully restored. I paid the same price as for a new econo-box
ford/nissan/bag-o-shite and it has more style and class than
practically anything I see on the road. Depreciation? what’s
that?
It will compete on equal terms with 99% of modern traffic - and
surprises many with it’s turn of speed. People come up to you in
car parks just to talk about your car and how special it is to them
-
- it seems to mean something special to so many different people.
Someone on this list asked what response they should give to people
who ask why they bought a Jag. The answer I would say is that if
you have to ask then you simply wouldn’t understand.
- it seems to mean something special to so many different people.
Downsides to ownership? nothing that can’t be sorted - gets too hot
inside - the heater/cooler is pathetic; the steering is too heavy
and too low-geared (going to install higher ratio power steering),
and the brakes don’t feel safe at speed (going to uprate those as
and when funds allow).
Mark ('64 MkII)
From: Yves Hiltpold hiltpold@cui.unige.ch
Date: Fri, 05 Jul 1996 14:38:20 -0200
Subject: RE: Brakes on S-type
Hi, sorry, I had a day off yesterday.
There’s just one thing. Can I find grease nipple that fit in the holes of
the brake caliper ? The ones I found in the front suspension are not the
same size. Are there some nipples elsewhere in the car I could “borrow” ?
Or do I have to buy one that fits somewhere ?
Sorry, I wasn’t clear here. Use the bleed nipples, take one off another
caliper. Remember to unblock them after.
OK, but does the grease-gun (how do you call it in English) fits well on
the bleed screw ?
Now I have another problem…
When I started up the car two days ago, it started OK, but suddently the
engine stopped and fuel was spilling out of the auxiliary carburetor. Now
as soon as I turn the key and the fuel pump starts to work, fuel is pouring
from this auxiliary carburetor.
The question is : does anyone have had this problem ? Is the auxiliary
carburetor dead ? If yes how do I take it off (do I have to take the two
SU6 out too and will I have to tune them again) ?
Thanks for any help !
Yves hiltpold
Geneva - Switzerland
63 S-type 3.8
From: David Wood David.Wood@durham.ac.uk
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 14:17:59 PDT
Subject: New Mk II
Well, that’s what it said on the front cover of the car magazine I picked up - caught
my attention as well.
The article referred, of course, to Jaguar’s new compact, X200, due for release in
1998. There was an artist’s sketch: X300 headlights, Mk II grill - but otherwise just
a blob. I hope the real thing is much better.
There were inevitable comparisons with Jaguar’s last compact, the Mk II, which led
me to thinking about other Jaguar comparisons as well, and what does ‘Jaguar’
now mean and stand for. Let me expand on this.
The XK120, Mk II, E-type and XJ6 would be on anyone’s list of all time classic cars,
never mind one restricted to Jaguars. What do they all have in common to justify
this (besides the engine, clever sod)? Answer: when they were launched, they were
so far ahead of the competition, that in the strictest sense competition didn’t exist.
For looks, performance and, very important, price, there was nothing to touch the
XK120 or any of the others. That is why they are remembered - as trailblazing cars
that set the standard for others to follow.
Sure, there was a downside - basically, long term fragility. This led to horrendous
depreciation. But you have to remember that these were British cars, built to the
same British standards as the rest - they weren’t built with Mercedes quality and
durability in mind.
Then, in my opinion, the rot started. Jaguar must have decided that it wanted to
move up-market, and correspondingly jacked the price up. I blame the start of this
on the XJ-S. Even the last E-type was a bargain - the first XJ-S was up there with
Porsche and Ferrari prices. And, by the time the XJ6 gave way to the XJ40, Jaguar
had moved their saloon car prices way up-market as well. No longer did Jaguar
offer unsurpassable value for money. Unfortunately for Jaguar, the message didn’t
get through that fragility is not expected with high prices, and so the horrendous
depreciation continued, which is why people like me can drive an XJ6 today.
Since the late 80’s, Jaguar have worked hard on quality, and it seems to be
working. The new X300 seems a fine car, but at 30,000 pounds minimum I am
never going to test that assumption. It is competitive, but is it light years ahead of
the opposition in every respect? I think not.
Which brings me back to the ‘new Mk II’. Will this be much prettier, have much
more performance, and be much cheaper than the opposition? If it makes one of
these, I suppose it’ll be judged a success. I doubt if it’ll ever make all three
(especially at a suggested entry price of 23,000 pounds).
Yes, it will be a good car, have high build quality, and probably be half a notch
better than the rest. But there’s more to being a Jaguar than that, or stuffing the
inside with wood, leather and chrome. Being a Jaguar used to be about trailblazing,
having the customers queue for your product, and sending the opposition
management reaching for their tranquilisers.
It seems that Jaguar is determined to be a competitive car maker that will expand
its production year on year and turn in a profit. Will its products be seen as
classics in 20-30 years time - by everyone, as well as by biased jag-lovers?
Cheers,
Dave Wood.
P.S. The new X200 will apparently be called XJ6 (because of a V6 engine). The
X300 will then be called XJ8 (V8), the XK8 will become smaller, and the V12 will
disappear - all before the end of the century. Are things moving, or what?
P.P.S. The article also mentioned that the average age of a new Jaguar buyer is 52
(not surprised, given the prices). With XK8 and X200, it was hoped to bring this
down to 38. I wonder what it was prior to the XJ-S launch?
From: Kroppe kroppe@mich.com
Date: Fri, 05 Jul 1996 09:44:57 -0400
Subject: Wood in Jaguars
Hi folks.
The thread on Tung oil is interesting. I saw a comment about Tung oil
not giving as glossy a finish as lacquer.
Q: I want to use some kind of finish protector on my '82 XJ6, which
has (in my mind) a pretty glossy, shiny veneer. If I use Tung oil,
will I lose the gloss and gain a flat finish, like I have seen in
some Mark IIs?
I like the soft finish of the older cars, but I don’t think it is
proper for the period of my newer car. Thanks for any and all info.
B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6
From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 16:23 +0200
Subject: RE: New Mk II
Hello David, I don’t think that Jaguars are now that much more expensive in=20=
relation to other cars than in the 50’s and 60’s. Then the price of a new=20
Jaguar was about 3 to 4 times the price of a small car and it is still like=20=
that. Also, not many people then could buy them new, and it is still=20
basically the same. We are richer now but as car making is a labour=20
intensive business, from the designing of the robots to the stitching of the=20=
leather, the relation of average earnings to the price of cars hasn’t=20
changed that much. Of course this is a approximation, depending on country=20
of residence, profession and so on.
I have the feeling that “classics” as we know them are not made anymore and=20=
30 years from now I would be much surprised (if I have the time to live as=20
far!) if people would collect the now current cars, apart from very=20
exceptional ones. This is because “classics” like the Jaguar Mk 2 or XK150=20
were the result of the artistry of one or a few masterminds and can easily=20
be recognised as such. Nowadays cars are designed by anonymous groups with=20
the help of powerful computers and personality of the cars diminishes.
Have a nice week end, Frans.
The XK120, Mk II, E-type and XJ6 would be on anyone’s list of all time
classic cars,
never mind one restricted to Jaguars. What do they all have in common to
justify
this (besides the engine, clever sod)? Answer: when they were launched,=20
they
were
so far ahead of the competition, that in the strictest sense competition
didn’t exist.
For looks, performance and, very important, price, there was nothing to=20
touch
the
XK120 or any of the others. That is why they are remembered - as=20
trailblazing
cars
that set the standard for others to follow.Sure, there was a downside - basically, long term fragility. This led to
horrendous
depreciation. But you have to remember that these were British cars, built=20=
to
the
same British standards as the rest - they weren’t built with Mercedes=20
quality
and
durability in mind.Then, in my opinion, the rot started. Jaguar must have decided that it=20
wanted
to
move up-market, and correspondingly jacked the price up. I blame the start=20=
of
this
on the XJ-S. Even the last E-type was a bargain - the first XJ-S was up=20
there
with
Porsche and Ferrari prices. And, by the time the XJ6 gave way to the XJ40,
Jaguar
had moved their saloon car prices way up-market as well. No longer did=20
Jaguar
offer unsurpassable value for money. Unfortunately for Jaguar, the message
didn’t
get through that fragility is not expected with high prices, and so the
horrendous
depreciation continued, which is why people like me can drive an XJ6=20
today.Since the late 80’s, Jaguar have worked hard on quality, and it seems to=20
be
working. The new X300 seems a fine car, but at 30,000 pounds minimum I am
never going to test that assumption. It is competitive, but is it light=20
years
ahead of
the opposition in every respect? I think not.Which brings me back to the ‘new Mk II’. Will this be much prettier, have
much
more performance, and be much cheaper than the opposition? If it makes one=20=
of
these, I suppose it’ll be judged a success. I doubt if it’ll ever make all
three
(especially at a suggested entry price of 23,000 pounds).Yes, it will be a good car, have high build quality, and probably be half=20=
a
notch
better than the rest. But there’s more to being a Jaguar than that, or
stuffing the
inside with wood, leather and chrome. Being a Jaguar used to be about
trailblazing,
having the customers queue for your product, and sending the opposition
management reaching for their tranquilisers.It seems that Jaguar is determined to be a competitive car maker that will
expand
its production year on year and turn in a profit. Will its products be=20
seen
as
classics i
n 20-30 years time - by everyone, as well as by biased=20
jag-lovers?Cheers,
Dave Wood.
P.S. The new X200 will apparently be called XJ6 (because of a V6 engine).=20=
The
X300 will then be called XJ8 (V8), the XK8 will become smaller, and the=20
V12
will
disappear - all before the end of the century. Are things moving, or what?P.P.S. The article also mentioned that the average age of a new Jaguar=20
buyer
is 52
(not surprised, given the prices). With XK8 and X200, it was hoped to=20
bring
this
down to 38. I wonder what it was prior to the XJ-S launch?=20
From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 09:06:17 MDT
Subject: Re: sunroof
have looked into the manual, but I find that that is of no help(no
troubleshooting guides).
No joke. I also find the manuals to be of NO help here either. On
mine, I tore the whole thing apart and with a volt-meter, drew the
schematic (series II).
I do know that power to the motor is provided via
a thermal circuit breaker. Since this breaker is shared with the door
locks, and the locks work, this is probably not the problem. Any
suggestions as to where I should start? Where is that thermal circuit
breaker located? Otherwise, the car is a dream.
I’m afraid that you have no choice but to remove the headliner (on
yours its a biscuit - easier than tuck and roll) and take a close
look at the situation. On mine, the relays and such are all mounted
up by the sunroof. I would check the limit switches (there should be
two). If they are corroded (very likely), there’s a very likely
source of problems.
Kind regards,
Jim Cantrell
76 XJ12C
76 XJ6C
66 Alpine 2.8L
From: DavidZ333@aol.com
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 12:03:45 -0400
Subject: Borranis and Cintaratos
First, help me with the proper spelling of the Cints.
Second, I have a late 54 XK120 runner driver in good condition - 50,000
miles, no rust or body damage - had been in storage for last 17 years. I
cannot restore it yet and may not due to cost. further, my wife feels that
Jaguars are so dramatic that they call unwanted attention to them and their
drivers. She like the idea of a rough, less ostentatious car. (From a few
yards away, any XK120 is eye catching.) There is a certain charm to an old
unrestored car that is safe and reliable - just did total brake job E. G. -
do you agree?
A wonderful, honest, caring, reasonable “finder” who procured the car for me
just found a set of Borranis for the car. (This fellow does not advertise
and does not want his name mentioned. (A collector linked me with him.) I
could not resist - $1300 total. ( Borranis can still be procured on special
order for about $1800 each.) The wheels are in fine condition but are dirty.
There is some minor rust and peeling chrome on the hubs as well.
Eventually, I will probably paint them.
Question : Can anyone recommend a good way to clean them short of the $375
each advertised restoration cost of these wheels? At this point, I am only
looking for a simple, basic way to remove most of the grunge without hurting
the wheels. TSP came to mind, but I do not know the effect of it on alloy.
Third, my finder has also located a set of 185 x 16 Centaratos. These tires
are in the original wrappings and have been in dark storage for at least the
last 10 years. I can have them for $800. I am interested in these because
of their rarity along with other obvious reasons - like they’re gorgeous and
feather light. Obviously, I could get a set of Avons for a lot less. I am
super stretched financially, but am a sucker for stuff like this and am even
considering using plastic beyond the second mortage which bought the Jaguar.
The borranis are 16 x 5 - will this work with 185s
Opinions? Reactions?
Apparently, 17 years worth of rodents have lived, eaten, and urinated in the
seats. Further, the previous owner did not replace floor boards and thus
allowed the seat frames to rust badly. They may be salvagable, but the seats
themselves are awful. This is really the only damaged parts.
Can anyone connect me with a set of used seats? Used but good top? Floor
boards by any chance? I will make them - boards - if I cannot find some
cheap.
Thanks for any help and commentary.
David
From: Gregory Andrachuk MGB@UVVM.UVic.CA
Date: Fri, 05 Jul 96 09:46:49 PDT
Subject: cruise switch xj6
Replacement of the cruise control switch on the transmission face plate:
After removing the clip from the switch (carefully, it is plastic), the
switch cane be withdrawn from the top. But the wires are NOT, NOT to be
cut. The harness connector for this switch hides down the driver’s side
(on left-hand drive Series III saloons) of the console. The best access
is by removing the padded plate with the heater louvre. It is a snap!
Reconnection, of course is the reverse. Why the wiring is of such a length
is a mystery, but there it is. As a general rule, DO NOT cut wires in a
Jaguar. This will only lead to the possibility of failure at yet another
point in the electrical system. About driving/fog lamps in saloons
and I think in xjs models: the wiring is already in place, and the connectors
are at the front of the fenders. Preparing the lighting switch is NOT as the
Haynes manual directs. Simply remove the C/clip which prevents depressing
the switch, and voila!. Everything is already in place, and no cutting,
removal of fibroptics, turning of the switch or anything else is needed!
Gregory Andrachuk, Victoria, Canada.
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #200
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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 8 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 201
Center Console
Re: 87 XJ-S A/C spews chunks…
Re: wood in jags/ Mk II critique
RE: E-Type cooling fan
E-Type FHC interior
Re: 9-ton D type
Re: A/C chunks: T. Alberts’ 87 XJ-S
someone was looking for a Lotus 7
Re: E-Type FHC interior
Re: catalytic converter debate
AC refrigerant question
Re: AC refrigerant question
As if New Mexico wasn’t hot enough…
XJ6 SIII Heater fan relays
Re: AC refrigerant question
Series III shocks
SIII -XJ6 core (freeze) plug removal/refitting
Re: AC refrigerant question
XK120 plug survey
Transporting and E-Type
Re: XK plug survey
I struck oil
From: justinb@Okway.okstate.edu (Justin Beightol)
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 12:07:16 -0500
Subject: Center Console
Hey guys! Thanks for everyone's help with my cruise control, I got it
fixed, now I just have to tweak it so that it holds the speed a little
better!
Okay, I know how to remove the center console, but there is one thing
that I can get to budge. It is the part in the console that catches
the latch for the compartment cover. It looks like it should pop
right up out of the center console, but I can't move it. It is the
only thing keeping the tray in the center console and keeping me from
removing the center console. Does anyone have any pointers?
Thanks,
Justin Beightol
'87 Jaguar XJ6
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 12:18:58 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: 87 XJ-S A/C spews chunks…
On Thu, 4 Jul 1996, Thomas Alberts wrote:
Recently, every time I start my XJ-S the A/C showers me
and any passengers present with little black chunks of
dry rotted foam rubber.
My questions:
1.) What are these pieces coming from?
There are a couple of possibilities. Some foam gaskets are used in the
duct system which can deteriorate and release these chunks. Tearing the
system down to get to these would be a bear, but it can be done. The
other–and I believe more likely–possibility is that the foam insulation
inside the evaporator unit is deteriorating. The unit is lined with foam
to prevent the walls of the unit from “sweating” when the A/C is running
by keeping the walls above the dew point temperature. It’s put on the
inside so it doesn’t get damaged during handling and installation.
Trying to get inside the unit to replace this makes the first job look
like child’s play!
2.) will the A/C system still operate properly once the
foam rubber thing that is disintegrating is completely gone?
The A/C system will still operate. If gaskets are deteriorating, you may
get some air leakage and less to the vents. If the evaporator insulation
is going, you eventually may get some cold water dripping and ultimately
some rusting of the unit. A second problem with this is that chunks of
insulation will occasionally plug the condensate drain tubes. This also
causes cold water to drip on your feet, particularly in turns, but it is
easy to remedy–at least temporarily. Just get under the car and blow a
little shot of compressed air up the tubes.
3.) How long will it continue to do this?
Probably as long as you own the car, unless you replace some things.
Hope this helps.
Larry Lee
From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 14:38:25 -0400
Subject: Re: wood in jags/ Mk II critique
Perhaps a little clarification is in order here . . .
The finish on my wood is not Tung oil, it’s the original Jag high gloss
finish. I simply use a soft cloth that is damp with Tung oil to wipe down
the wood after I clean it in the hope that the oil will keep the wood from
drying out. It seems to work just fine, since my wood is still very pretty
and has no surface cracking despite eight years in a convertible.
Tung oil by itself produces a nice finish, but it is certainly not glossy.
MikeC
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: wood in jags/ Mk II critique
Author: mslade mslade@fidler.co.uk at INTERNET
Date: 07/05/96 09:26 AM
DavidZ wondered if the Tung Oil finish is acceptable. Personally I
wouldn’t accept it, but I wouldn’t dream of dictating to others.
<snip>
Mark ('64 MkII)
From: “Lauren E. Pratt” pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 96 11:26:22 PDT
Subject: RE: E-Type cooling fan
To those who asked.
You inquired about my mod for the series I E-Type fan. I was
talking to my nephew (a body shop foreman for many years) about
the sorry fan Jag put in the SI E-Type. He went back to his
stash of reclaimed parts and came up with a nice fan and motor,
he thought from a “late model” GM product. It looked like the
same fan and motor that was on my 86 LeSabre (the larger of two,
the car had the trailer towing package with 2 fans), and is the
same as on my 94 LeSabre 3.8 engine with AC. If this fan was used
for this many years on the Buick, and most likely Olds, Cad, and
others, there must be millions of them out there.
It turned out the motor was shot, but for $42 I got a new after
market motor (made in Canada) from the local CarQuest outlet. The
fan is just a bit over 16 inches and fits just fine in the original
fan shroud. The trick was to design a bracket that would hold the
fan in the proper place as the clearance with the shroud was quite
small. Also I did not want to cut up the original mount as I wanted
to be able to reinstall the original fan if I wanted to show the
car. I did not want to mount the fan to the radiator as the
vibration might cause problems.
The 10 volt regulator as supplied by Jaguar switches between
battery (or alternator charging voltage) and ground to give an
time average of 10 volts. Because I wanted to use the electrical
point between the temp gauge and the temp sender to control the fan,
(and because the switching regulator causes noise in other circuits)
the Jag 10 volt regulator was changed out for a solid state regulator.
The meter voltage is compared with a fixed but controllable voltage to
determine when to turn on the fan. The first set point turns on the
fan through a resistor for slow speed operation, a second set point
will turn on the full voltage for high speed operation. Another part
of the circuit puts in a offset to control the turn off points, about
5 degrees.
The cost of motor, circuit board, electronics, and relays would be
in the $125 range, not counting the fan blade from a salvage yard or
GM dealer, wiring and terminals, and an hour or so to fabricate a
motor mounting fixture. Not a very viable option when fans that
mount to the radiator are available in the $150 to $200 range. But
as my time is cheep (for my car) this does just what I want it to do.
Hope this helps.
Cheers Lauren
65 E-Type under restoration
Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 7/5/96
Time: 11:26:22 AM
From: rrichardson@eurekanet.com (Robert J. Richardson)
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 18:55:34 -0500
Subject: E-Type FHC interior
I’m looking for help from someone who has had an interior kit installed on
an E-Type Series I FHC. Bartlett offers a deluxe kit (including leather
seat materials) for about $2,200. But I need to have an estimate on cost of
labor for a full installation of the interior including the dash and facia.
Hourly labor rates for auto upholstering in my area is $35-$45 and hour. If
someone can tell me the total hours this install takes, I could then better
estimate my total investiment for a new interior.
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 20:19:30 -0400
Subject: Re: 9-ton D type
Jan:
Five speed with power take off? Any chance the tranny will fit an E-Type?
(Half-serious question).
Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
And why am I telling the Jag-lovers this? They are powered by 4.2L XJ engines,
that’s why (two SUs, five-speed manual with PTO for the pump).
From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 1996 22:27:07 -0400
Subject: Re: A/C chunks: T. Alberts’ 87 XJ-S
In a message dated 96-07-04 19:57:47 EDT, ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
writes:
<<< stuff about AC system description>>>>>>
By the way, the AC system in the '85 XJS may be different to that of an '87
XJS. I think '87 was when they switched to the Delanair AC system which is a
different animal. My '87 has the Delanair type. Just thought you should
know…
Julian Mullaney
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sat, 06 Jul 1996 08:38:13 -0500
Subject: someone was looking for a Lotus 7
I know this is not on Jaguars, but someone from the Jag list contacted me
privately from Austrailia and was looking for a Lotus 7.
Would you please contact me again, I misplaced your mail.
I have info for you.
Jim
“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 1996 08:12:12 -0700
Subject: Re: E-Type FHC interior
You wrote:
I’m looking for help from someone who has had an interior kit
installed on an E-Type Series I FHC. Bartlett offers a deluxe kit
(including leather seat materials) for about $2,200.
I just returned from the UK with my own FHC trim kit in Sateen Chesnut
for the E type I bought from Will Zehring on the list. Our cost for the
kit is $1800 although mne ais a little more expensive as it is all
leather.
But I need to have an estimate on cost of
labor for a full installation of the interior including the dash and
facia.
Our charges here in Coral Gables to fit the kit is $1500 … but do
remeber the ohours do vary by car. For instance my car did not have
pockets on the B pilar and I am putting them in…
kind regards
tony
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
From: Peter Morris pmorris@tfb.com
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 1996 08:53:58 -8
Subject: Re: catalytic converter debate
On 4 Jul 96 at 16:00, Weiss-Malik wrote:
A few comments on the catalytic converter debate…
The converters burning up before 100k miles seems to be premature.
How do you know that the converters are bad?
In my '86 XJ SIII, a clogged (bad) converter resulted in very poor
acceleration, that is to say, leisurely, stately, stodgy, slowwwwww.
This is what I noticed. My mechanic, whom I do trust, diagnosed and
replaced the converter; acceleration restored.
Regards,
Peter Morris
From: jello@dns.ida.net (Phil Bates)
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 1996 14:32:59 -0600
Subject: AC refrigerant question
Watching TV the other day, I saw a 10 sec news snipit. They said - “Its
getting easier for people with older cars to recharge their air
conditioning.” Then they showed some boxes that said FREEZE 12 on them, and
had small (1/2 pt?) containers that look just like the small freon cans
people used to buy at auto parts stores, K-mart, etc. Showed a couple guys
with the old style hoses hooked to a small container, recharging their car’s
A/C. Looked to me like there was a NEW product that was a direct
replacement for the old Freon R-12 (no, I do not mean R124, 124A, 123, 123A
or R-14, but an actual direct replacement for R12) or that regulations were
being relaxed (I doubt this second one very highly).
I live in a remote location (but fairly populated for around here, but
remote), and am not likely to see this stuff for months or years, but need
to recharge my XJ12C’s A/C, and would like to do it cheap. Does anyone have
further information on a new refrigerant that really replaces R-12, or did
anyone else see this short bit of info on TV?? I’d really like to get some
of this product.
Thanks,
Phil Bates
67 MGB
75 Jaguar XJ12C
52 MG TD replicar (VW)
From: jblair@exis.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 1996 19:22:39 -0400
Subject: Re: AC refrigerant question
At 02:32 PM 7/6/96 -0600, Phil Bates wrote:
Watching TV the other day, I saw a 10 sec news snipit. They said -
“Its getting easier for people with older cars to recharge their air
conditioning.” Then they showed some boxes that said FREEZE 12 on
them, and had small (1/2 pt?) containers that look just like the
…
Enclosed you will find some information that I got on the Honda list. I’ve
been meaning to put it up and see if anyone has had
any dealings with the stuff or not.
It appears that an R-12 replacement refrigerant is finally available
for older systems. I quote from the “New Products” section of the
July 1996 Car Craft, pg. 128:
"Pennzoil FR-12 Refrigerant:
“Pennzoil Products has become the distributor for FRIGC, FR-12
refrigerant. Its properties are virtually identical to R-12, also
known as Freon, the most widely used automotive A/C system efrigerant.
However, R-12 is now banned by the EPA. FR-12 solves the problem of
having to undergo costly changes with an R-12 A/C system. It’s ready to use
with only minimal system adaptation and has also been accepted by the EPA.
New cars now use R-134a, and older R-12 systems can’t use R-134a without
significant alterations. The FR-12 refrigerant is compatible with R-12
systems. Contact your local auto parts retailer.”
Is this just “GHG-12” a.k.a. “R-406a”, George Goble’s R-12 replacement
conconction? See http://ghg.ecn.purdue.edu/ghg2.html#R-406A,
George’s home page discussion of the matter, as well as
http://www.worldserver.com/R-406A/.
From what I can see, it appears not. The only other contender that
I was aware of (and I’m not an expert) was a product that was being
worked on (by Dupont?) and was reported in an SAE paper that I have in
my filing cabinet. From what I remember it wasn’t really a
contender because is didn’t pass the EPA’s flammability requirements
for such products (again, this is as I remember, so I might be
slightly mistaken).
Jim
Jim
John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net
Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229
48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire
The one with the most toys, wins!
From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 1996 18:50:41 +0700
Subject: As if New Mexico wasn’t hot enough…
My '85 XJ6 - SIII gets very hot in the cabin along the transmission
housing. The selector lever is hot, the ash trays are mini-ovens and
the whole hump is hot to the touch. Is this normal or am I baking my
Borg?
G. W. Price & Company, Ltd
Probabilistic Record Linkage Services
Consultants in research, information management
and program evaluation
gprice@rt66.com
***Free answers to emailed PC questions***
From: BSherw@aol.com
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 1996 22:44:17 -0400
Subject: XJ6 SIII Heater fan relays
DaveofNJ asked:
Can anyone tell me where the relay for the heater/ac blower is?<
Dave, on my 85 XJ6, the blower speed relays are located forward of the center
console,LH side. Remove the LH side panel for access. Look for a (black?)
box about the size of a cigarette pack. Happy hunting!
Brian Sherwood
From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 12:24:30 -0400
Subject: Re: AC refrigerant question
In a message dated 96-07-06 19:45:41 EDT, jblair@exis.net (John T. Blair)
writes:
It appears that an R-12 replacement refrigerant is finally available
for older systems…"Pennzoil FR-12 Refrigerant:
It’s ready to use
with only minimal system adaptation…
John, have you any idea what kind of minimal adaptations are needed? Paul
Taylor in the UK told me there was a direct replacement fro R-12 too but he
didn’t have any details. I would love to get some of this for my "87 XJS.
Thanks
Julian Mullaney
From: “David Tordoff” dtordoff@flash.net
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 12:12:26 -0500
Subject: Series III shocks
Does anyone know of a replacement shock absorber for the Series III XJ6. I
have an 83 that I need to fit new shocks to. I checked with a local shop
and they wanted $500 for the job. The front ones are in need of
replacement so I am most interested any any information about them. I
checked the interchangable list that is out on
http://www.intex.net/~cci/jcna4.html but it only lists the I, II and E
type.
Many thanks,
From: “Peter Hamel (h)” pete-hamel@dial.pipex.com
Date: Sun, 07 Jul 1996 18:38:19 +0000
Subject: SIII -XJ6 core (freeze) plug removal/refitting
Dear JLs,
This a repeat posting from a couple of weeks ago, I didn’t get any
replies (unusual). I know its simple but any help would be appreciated.
I have a coolant leak from one of the core (freeze?) plugs on the top of
my cylinder head. Its an '86 4.2 engine, and the plug is about 3/4 inch
in diam. closest to the front of the engine. How do I remove the plug,
and can I do this with everything in place (ie without removing head
etc)?
How is the new plug inserted, is it just hammered carefully into place?
Also do I have to use any kind of sealant when putting the new one in to
avoid leaks?
Thanks in advance
Pete Hamel
From: jblair@exis.net (John T. Blair)
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 15:15:23 -0400
Subject: Re: AC refrigerant question
At 12:24 PM 7/7/96 -0400, Juliansean@aol.com wrote:
John, have you any idea what kind of minimal adaptations are needed?
Paul Taylor in the UK told me there was a direct replacement for
R-12 too but he didn’t have any details. I would love to get some
of this for my "87 XJS.
Unfortunately Julian I don’t. I haven’t had a chance to follow up on
the info in the post yet. It’s just something I’ve seen and thought
it would be worth keeping for future reference.
So far, I haven’t heard from anyone but you about it either.
John
John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net
Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229
48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire
The one with the most toys, wins!
From: REMANKING@aol.com
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 15:20:38 -0400
Subject: XK120 plug survey
What brand and type plug have all you 120 owners had the best luck with? I
presently have NGK BP5ES in the engine but will be changing plugs this week
and am looking for some recommendations.
From: rrichardson@eurekanet.com (Robert J. Richardson)
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 16:46:16 -0500
Subject: Transporting and E-Type
I’ll need to transport my E-Type some 1,200 miles to a restoration specialist.
I’m unable to drive it ,because of a health problem…
How best could I have it transported? Is there a professional auto hauler
out there and, if so, what approximately would a hauler charge? Any other
suggestions would be appreciated. I do have a driver should anyone suggest
a rental truck. He is also willing to tow it with my BMW 528e.Could the
Bimmer safely tow an E-Type? Would the E-Type’s drive train have to be
disconnected for a safe tow? Any ideas on how I can get the Jag to this
distant location at the most reasonable price?
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 16:04:48 -0700
Subject: Re: XK plug survey
You wrote:
What brand and type plug have all you 120 owners had the best luck
with? I presently have NGK BP5ES in the engine but will be changing
plugs this week and am looking for some recommendations.
For our 3.4 engines we use NGK BPR6ES or Champion N9Y
kind regards
tony
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
From: rrichardson@eurekanet.com (Robert J. Richardson)
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 19:50:59 -0500
Subject: I struck oil
I don’t mean to hog this great Jaguar message board, but I’m planning on
shipping my Jag for some restoration work and found this problem-
I started it after it had been mothballed for a couple of months. It took
more than several attempts, first with full choke then lever in the
mid-position, no choke and back and forth until it finally caught hold. I
let it fast idle for about five minutes and discovered oil in the spark
plug wells of the back three plugs. There are no cam gasket leaks so the
oil has to be coming up from the cylinders. I’ve only got about 15,000
miles on new rings. Is the problem temporary because the engine hasn’t been
fired up for months or am I facing a serious problem here. The closest Jag
dealer is 75 miles away and I hesitate to drive it that far. The idle
wasn’t jet smooth, but the engine seemed to be firing evenly on all
cylinders. I would appreciate any feedback on possible causes for this
symptom.
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #201
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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 8 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 202
Re: SIII XJ6 core (freeze) plug removal/refitting
Re: Series III shocks
Re: A/C Refrigerant Question
XKE Series II A/C: The Definitive Posting
XJ6 Series 1 - A/C
R12 Substitutes
Catalytic Convertors
Jag: Mk2 and similar: sidelights/dim-dip; relays
Series I XJ6
From: Kroppe kroppe@mich.com
Date: Sun, 07 Jul 1996 22:00:13 -0400
Subject: Re: SIII XJ6 core (freeze) plug removal/refitting
“Peter Hamel (h)” pete-hamel@dial.pipex.com wrote:
I have a coolant leak from one of the core (freeze?) plugs on the top of
my cylinder head. It’s an '86 4.2 engine, and the plug is about 3/4 inch
in diam. closest to the front of the engine. How do I remove the plug,
and can I do this with everything in place (ie without removing head
etc)?
I have removed the core plugs from my '82 4.2L cylinder head by tapping on
the side edge of the core plug. This is the “wall” of the cup of the plug,
not the bottom of the cup. The plug will rotate sideways, then you can pry
it carefully with a screwdriver and then get some pliers on it to pull it
out. This was done on a workbench, but I feel it can be done in the car.
How is the new plug inserted, is it just hammered carefully into place?
Also do I have to use any kind of sealant when putting the new one in to
avoid leaks?
I haven’t done this one yet, but my machine shop tells me you carefully tap
the new plug in place using something that is the same diameter as the outer
edge of the cup. Don’t strike the bottom of the cup or it will collapse.
I have also heard many recommendations from my machine shop and the Jag
Lovers’ list that you should use loctite or RTV around core plugs when
replacing them. Core plugs can be gotten from the mail order joints -
Terry’s, SICP, XK’s, etc.
Good luck.
B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6 - Got my cylinder head back and it looks great!!
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sun, 07 Jul 1996 21:42:39 -0500
Subject: Re: Series III shocks
Does anyone know of a replacement shock absorber for the Series III XJ6. I
have an 83 that I need to fit new shocks to. I checked with a local shop
and they wanted $500 for the job. The front ones are in need of
Since the car requires 6 shocks and each one costs abput $75 that puts the
parts cost at $450. I would consider their offer to install them at $50 to
be a bargain! OK so maybe you can find them for $50 (but they wont have a
lifetime waranty like the $75 ones) each that still means they will install
them for $200, a bit high, but I have seen worse.
Jim
“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 23:51:29 -0400
Subject: Re: A/C Refrigerant Question
Tonight I will be writing up the story of my Series II XKE A/C overhaul,
which I will post to the list. To make a long story short, there are really
no direct replacements for R12 yet. George Gobel’s product is not approved,
and the substitute products are composed of methane, propane, or other
noxious/explosive materials. They install the same way as r12, but their
chemical properties are all over the board. By the way, you will need to
evacuate the system properly, so you will still have to pay big bucks to a
certified A/C shop.
The ‘minimal modification’ will include, at the very least, replacement of
the fill valves. The EPA (in the US) requires that automotive systems have a
unique pipe fitting, depending on the type of refrigerant used. This allows
proper recycling.
If the new refrigerant is compatible with mineral oil, fine. Otherwise the
system may need to be completely drained and cleaned, before refilling with
synthetic lubricant. By the way, the oil seals which worked so well for the
last (fill in the blank) years may quickly fail if they are incompatible
with synthetics. The A/C shops I’ve talked to would rather replace the
compressor than bother with this.
In fact,if you are doing all of this, you may as well replace everything and
convert to R134.
I know that R12 is big money these days, but it beats replacing that old
compressor. Surely someone out there has an old Toyauto which just needs to
make it thru a couple of more summers…let’s try the new stuff on that,
rather than a real car…
Mike Frank
1969 XKE 2+2 (now with working air)
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 23:51:31 -0400
Subject: XKE Series II A/C: The Definitive Posting
Let me begin by warning everyone that this will be a long posting. When I
finish a big project, I like to write it up, if only for my own
documentation. Someday I will be the PO of my car and some FO would like to
know what I have done. In this case, total restoration of my A/C unit, there
seems to be enough general interest to warrant publication to the list.
Table of Contents:
-
driving Impressions (since this is what everyone wants to know, I put it
first) -
Scope of project
-
XKE Series II Air Conditioning: History
-
How Automotive A/C systems work
-
Rebuilding the system: Compressor, condensor, and receiver/dryer
-
Rebuilding the system: Underdash unit
-
Electrical System
-
Recharging
-
Adjustments
-
XKE Series II A/C: Driving Impressions
The US East Coast tends to be very hot and muggy in the summer. This
weekend was no exception, with temperatures in the low 90’s and moderate to
high humidity. It was a good weekend to try out my brand new, factory fresh
XKE A/C.The first thing I should point out is that the Series II A/C plenum has
five vents. Four of them are on the passenger side. So right off the bat,
air distribution is uneven.Second, the A/C unit draws a_l_l it’s input air from the footwell area on
the passenger side. The only way to add fresh air is to open a window or run
the heater blower.Third, those of you who are old hands with E-Types are used to placebo
switches. The A/C unit adds two knobs which do almost nothing. One of these
is a thermostat knob. This regulates the temperature of the
e_v_a_p_o_r_a_t_o_r, not the car interior. The only correct position for
this knob is full cold. The other switch controls the A/C fan. It has four
settings: low, medium, high, and off. Turning the fan on also causes the
compressor clutch to engage, and turns the radiator fans on (rgardless of
input from the ‘otter’ switch). In other words, it turns the unit on and off.
So how does all this work? Fair is the word that comes to mind. The low
fan setting is almost useless, so I bounced around between high and medium.
Cooling was sufficient to make a hot day bearable, but not really
comfortable. I would guess that this unit can drop cockpit temperature by
not more than 15 degress (F).
I kept the heater air flap open, and experimented with opening the window
a crack vs. running the heater fan to bring in fresh air. Either works.
Running th A/C without fresh air will eventually result in a very stuffy cabin.
The battery was slightly on discharge until the engine reached about
1200RPM. With the headlights on, ‘on charge’ does not occur until over
2000RPM. I am running the 45 amp alternator.
Engine temperature was dead steady just below the middle of the guage.
They really did a good job of redesigning the cooling system on the Type II’s.
There was little or no effect on gas mileage. This is really not
surprising: open windows have about the same effect on aerodynamics as open
parachutes. My gas mileage was consistently 14-15 mile per (US) gallon.
Overall impression: it’s better than nothing, but the output is disappointing.
- Scope of the Project
My car is a 1969 E Type 2+2. It had originally had the factory A/C system,
but this had been disabled by the PO. Specifically, the hoses had been cut
away to make room for a header system (which I have since replaced with a
stock exhaust). Cutting the hoses in this manner allowed all sorts of dust,
oil, and water into the system. The compressor, in partucular, was badly
fouled. This was my evaluation of the system:
Hoses: Two totally missing, two cut to the stubs, leaving only the ends.
Condensor: Salvagable, but hard to clean
Receiver/Dryer: Must be replaced, as standard practice for any A/C rebuild
Compressor: Badly fouled, since isolation valves had been removed
Underdash components: Facia damaged, mechanical components condition
unknown
The only part available off the shelf for this car is the receiver/dryer. I
bought this from Welsh.
The hoses and isolation valves needed replacing, but I had no idea what the
hose lengths were. In some cases, I wasn’t even sure of the fitting sizes
and thread specs. Luckily, I found someone with a parts car, who swapped me
the compressor, isolation valves, and hoses for some other spares. The only
parts which I would eventually use would be the isolation valves.
I sent the hoses to Old Air Products to be copied.
As to the rest of the system, I lucked into an estate sale which included a
carload of NOS Jag parts. This included a brand new compressor and
condensor. It also contained a professionally rebuilt underdash unit, sans
the facia. The price was surprisingly low, and I was in business.
After six months of parts hunting, the project was now relatively simple.
Rather than bother with old components, I was going to replace everything.
I would have possibly the only ‘new’ XKE air conditioning system on the
planet.
-
XKE Series II air conditioning: a history.
The Jaguar E-Type sold to a sports/luxury crowd in the US. The competion
included
Corvettes an Thunderbirds, either of which could be had with A/C. Jaguar saw
it’s competion as Aston, Ferrari, and Lamborghini, which all had a sporting,
as opposed to a luxurious character. The English summer climate is also much
milder than in the US, which prejudiced the designers. American dealers soon
became frustrated with Coventry’s inability or unwillingness to supply A/C,
and began installing A/C units themselves (see photo and discussion, p 387
of Porter’s Definitive History).
Jaguar was thus pressured by the American dealers to offer A/C in the E
Type. Exactly when this became available as a factory option is unclear.
Skilleter reports that A/C was available as an option in the 3.8 liter
Series I, but this seems unlikely. The discussion in Porter suggests that
the factory began development in 1966, and the first units may have been
fitted to the 4.2 Series I. But it is more likely that the first ‘official’
installations were on Series 1.5’s, and mass production did not begin until
the Series II.
Series II (and Series I, if there is such a thing) air conditioning was an
American phenomenon. It does not appear to have been available in RHD form.
How common is it? Hard to say, but there were about 8000 LHD coupes and 2+2
Series II’s. When I was shopping, I saw A/C on about 1 in every three cars.
This would suggest that a total of about 2400 cars were so equipped. Just a
guess.
Judging by the design of the unit, I would guess that these were all built
‘off the line’, perhaps even being fitted out by the dealer. I base this
assessment on the simple design of the evaporator unit, which doesn’t
provide for outside air, but instead only recirculates inside air. This
simple type of unit is very conducive to after-market installation. The
photos in Haddock show a large number of variations in part placement and
orientation, corroborating my hypothesis.
There are several variations on this unit. I believe mine is the most common.
-
How an automotive A/C system works
If a gaseous substance is compressed, two things happen: it becomes hot,
and it occupies less volume. The relationship of temperature, pressure and
volume has been known since the 17th century, and is called Boyle’s Law.A/C systems make use of this phenomenon. A gas (R-12 Freon, in this case)
is compressed. In its compressed form, it is then cooled to ambient
temperature. Cooled, it condenses into a pressurized liquid. This cooled
liquid is then released into a low pressure container. The process now
reverses itself: the pressurized liquid evaporates into a vapor and
becomes…cold! Warm air from the interior of the car is simply blown
across the cold evaporator and viola! Conditioned air.
In theory, almost any gas can be used as a refrigerant. Until the 30’s, in
fact, refrigerators and freezers used carbon dioxide, amonia, or sulfur
dioxide as the refrigerant. Some manufacturers used propane or butane. These
gases all have advantages and disadvantages. But the disadvantages include
noxious vapors or even explosion in the event of a leak. Dupont’s invention
of Freon in the thirties revolutionized the refrigeration industry because
it was non volatile and almost non-toxic. It also mixes well with mineral
oil lubricants used in compessors.
In the 1980’s it was discovered that a complex interatction between freon
and other atmoshperic pollutants was destroying the earth’s vital ozone
layer. For that reason traditional freons (R12 in particular) have been
severely restricted in recent years. More about this in the section on
recharging.
Lets trace thru the function of an A/C system:
1. Freon is compressed by the belt-driven compressor.
2. Compressed (hot) freon is fed to the condensor via a hose. The
condensor is a tube-and-fin device which looks a lot like an auto radiator.
It is typically mounted in front of the regular radiator.
3. Air moving thru the fins of the condensor cools the compressed freon,
which becomes a fluid.
4. Liquid freon is fed from the condensor to the receiver/drier thru a
hose. The purpose of the receiver/drier is, as the name implies, twofold.
First, it receives and stages a supply of cooled freon for the evaporator.
Second, it contains a chemical substance which absorbs any water from the
working gas. This is extremely important, because the fluorine in Freon can
react with water to produce hydrofluoric acid, which will destroy the system.
5. Cooled liquid freon is then fed thru a hose from the receiver/drier
to the expansion valve. This is a complex little valve which allows the
compressed fluid to enter the low pressure evaporator in a controlled
manner. It is the ‘gatekeeper’ betweeen the high and low pressure areas of
the system. The expansion valve is typically brazed or welded directly into
the evaporator assembly.
6. As liquid freon passes thru the expansion valve, it enters the low
pressure area of the evaporator. As it does so, it expands and becomes a
gas. It also becomes very cold.
7. A fan blows interior air across the outside of the evaporator,
creating cool air which is conducted back to the interior of the car.
8. The freon, which has been heated by the action of the fan, is now
conducted back to the compressor, where the cycle starts again.
-
Rebuilding the Type II A/C system: Condensor, Compressor, Reciever/Drier.
Caution: When working with any A/C part, care must be taken not to
expose the part to the atmosphere for an extended period. Doing so will
allow moisture into the system, which can cause uncorrectable damage. All
parts are delivered from the manufacturer or rebuilder sealed, dessicated,
and (in some cases) pressurized. Do not remove the temporary seals until you
are ready to connect the parts. If you are reusing an old part, an attempt
should be made to dry it. This can be done either by heating the part, or by
sealing the part overnight in a plastic bag with some silica gel packets
(like you find packed with electronic gear).
Condensor. The condensor on the E-type is a very simple unit. Two short
bolts hold it to the front of the radiator, and two straps at the bottom
hold it to the front rail. The upper fitting connects to a hose leading to
the discharge side of the compressor. The lower fitting connects to a hose
leading to the ‘in’ side of the Receiver/Drier. The only special precaution
is to make sure that there is enough clearance to close the bonnet once the
hoses are connected. Test the fit very carefully, and bend the end of the
tubing if the fit is not good.
Compressor. The compressor on most Series II’s is a York Tecumseh. This is
a compact little compressor. It is also very much obsolete. I am told that
when these things go, they are often unrebuildable, which is just as well,
since I have no idea where to get a rebuild kit. As delivered from the
factory, there is a full charge of 11 ounces of oil in the compressor. It is
also shiped sealed and pressurized to prevent the incursion of atmospheric
moisture. Since it is unlikely that a new one will ever turn up again, these
facts are presented for historical purposes only.
Isolation valves. The input and discharge ports on the compressor connect to
hoses via isolation valves. When these valves are turned fully clockwise,
the compressor is sealed off from the balance of the system, allowing it to
be replaced or maintained independently. When the valves are halfway down,
they allow the system to be charged thru the service ports. when the valves
are all the way up (fully counter clockwise), the system is in normal
operating status. The top of the isolation valves should be canted
approximately 45 degrees towards the engine. If you install the valves
upright, you will end up with two little bumps on your bonnet. The clearance
is that tight.
Mounting bracket. The bracket which holds the compressor is a very heavy
duty appliance. It is an L shape arrangement of box steel, which allows the
compressor to be mounted where the alternator normally is, and the
alternator to be relocated in front of the engines.
Belts. The compressor belt can be changed without removing the alternator or
the alternator belt. This may not be obvious at first glance. The procedure
I followed is:
- Turn the steering wheel to the right.
- This allows you to 'step in' behind the left front tire, to get a good
angle on the work.
- Using a 3/4" open end wrench, loosen the bolt holding the jockey wheel
bracket. The engineering here is almost comical: there is exactly enough
clearance under the coil to allow movement of the wrench. You undo the bolt
one flat at a time.
- using a large adjustable wrench behind the jockey wheel, swing it out
of the way. The belt is now loose.
- Slip the belt off the compressor and pulley.
- There is exactly enough clearance to slide the belt out under the L
bracket.
- Installation is the reverse of removal.
Receiver drier. The receiver/drier is bolted to the brake fluid heat
shield. There may be a few variations on this location. The ‘in’ side is
connected to the lower condensor fitting via a hose. The ‘out’ side is
connected the underdash unit with another hose.
-
Rebuilding the Type II A/C system: Underdash.
The underdash assembly contains the evaporator, expansion valve,
thermostat, fan, and switch. This is all in one fiberglass unit which also
serves as the air plenum and condensate drain. This is quite a lot of
function in a 30 inch by 10 inch unit.
The evaporator and expansion valve are brazed into a single unit. The large
hose connects the unit to the input of the compressor. The small hose
connects the unit to the output of the receiver/drier. These hoses feed thru
an oblong hole in the firewall. On my car, this hole did not line up with
the underdash unit precisely. See my comments above regarding the ‘off the
line’ nature of these air conditioning units. The hoses had to be attached
before the unit was hoisted into place, and then it was a struggle hanging
the box.
The evaporator sits at the low point of the plastic case, allowing
condensate water to drain out through two outlets at the rear of the unit.
The drain water then feeds thru two surgical rubber hoses which lead out
thru two grommeted holes in the transmission tunnel. The left hose
unfortunately drains right on to the exhaust system, which will probably
have an effect on the longevity of the front pipes. The handling of
condensate water is generally ineffective, and the carpet will be a bit damp
after a full day of running the A/C. This is primarily due to condensation
around the hose fittings.
The fan unit is integral with the evaporator case. The fan motor projects
out the top of the unit, and fits neatly into an ‘empty’ space behind the
glove box.
The front facia is very, very delicate. Mine was in pieces when the car was
delivered, and diligent search failed to locate a good replacement. Instead,
I built up a jig out of wood and cardboard, and remolded the broken parts as
best I could. The louvers on mine all work, but they tend to move around
with a mind of their own. The stress of assembly cause additional cracking,
which I had to fix in place. If I could think of something better to replace
it with, I would.
The unit has two ‘tabs’ on it’s top side. These engage the lower edge of the
dashboard. Although this seems flimsy, it is adequate to suspend the unit.
Two brackets, one next to the ignition lock, and one on the passenger side
kick panel, keep the unit from sliding out back out of the dash.
The ignition lock, by the way, is attached to the side of the A/C unit. The
steering column does n_o_t lock on an A/C equipped car.
-
Electrical System Considerations
A white wire on the battery side of fuse 7 energises the A/C relay. This
relay is located behind the left splash panel. The three relays located
there are (from the top): horn relay, alternator relay, and A/C Relay.
The relay is energized whenever the key is in the on position. When
energized, a high current circuit brings power back to the A/C switch (black
wire). There is an in-line fuse on this circuit. I used a 20-amp fuse here
(does anyone know the correct rating).
When the A/C fan switch moves to one of the on positions, a second fan
relay is energized, turning on both radiator fans. Both fan relays are on a
steel plate bolted to the railing directly below the coil. A very large
resistor on the brake fluid heat shield modulates the speed of the A/C fan.
There are take-offs corresponding to the High, Medium, and Low Speed settings.
Depending on the setting of the thermostat switch, the compressor clutch
will also be energized when the A/C fan is turned on.
The wire bundle for all of this passes out the firewall thru the same hole
as the evaporator hoses. This doesn’t seem like a particularly save
arrangement, but there it is.
-
Recharging
Recharging should be carried out by a licensed A/C shop. This is for
several reasons.
-
You need to get all the air and moisture out of the system before you
recharge. Failure to do this will result in premature failure of the system. -
It is illegal for just plain folks to handle R12.
-
Professional shops have leak detection equipment, which can save you
time and money. -
Guesswork is a poor substitute for manifold guages.
As mentioned before R12 is on the ‘endangered substance’ list. Now you may
have heard about substitutes, but there are really n_o
r_e_p_l_a_c_e_m_e_n_t_s for R12 yet. Various experimental products are not
approved, and the established substitute products are composed of methane,
propane, or other noxious/explosive materials. They install the same way as
r12, but their chemical properties are all over the board.
A 'minimal modification" will be required to install a substitute coolant.
The ‘minimal modification’ will include, at the very least, replacement of
the fill valves. The EPA (in the US) requires that automotive systems have a
unique pipe fitting, depending on the type of refrigerant used. This allows
proper recycling.
If the new refrigerant is compatible with mineral oil, fine. Otherwise the
system may need to be completely drained and cleaned, before refilling with
synthetic lubricant. By the way, the oil seals which worked so well for the
last (fill in the blank) years may quickly fail if they are incompatible
with synthetics. The A/C shops I’ve talked to would rather replace the
compressor than bother with this.
In fact,if you are doing all of this, you may as well replace everything and
convert to R134.
So much for the pitch. How much does it cost? Unbelievably, a full charge of
R12 costs $100-$150 in the New York area! Ouch!
- Adjustments. The thermostat dial on the dashboard detects the temperature
of the evaporator, not the cabin temperature. If you find that you aren’t
getting enough cool, the chances are that the thermostat capilary has be
inserted too far into the evaporator matrix. This can be adjusted without
disassembly. If you hold a flashlight to the second vent from the left, you
will see the capilary tube. It looks like a piece of aluminum wire. Follow
this to the point where it enters the evaporator matrix. Use a crochet hook
to pull this back out of the matrix (don’t worry, the end that goes into the
evaporator is not bolted, tied, or locked down in any way). You should be
able to pull this back about half an inch. This will lower the temperature
of the cool air about five degrees. That is the only adjustment I know of.
Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: per@quantum.ece.ucsb.edu (Per Stenius)
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 96 22:19:05 PDT
Subject: XJ6 Series 1 - A/C
Hi to all! A while ago I posted a question regarding my Series 1 XJ6 A/C that
was not working (system evidently plugged somewhere, since it held vacuum but
the low side did not respond). My A/C is now depressurized and I have removed
the receiver/dryer, which I will replace. When I shook the rec/dryer there
was no sound, indicating that at least as far as that was concerned the failure
of the rec/dryer was not the cause for clogged up lines (ie. the crystals in
the rec/dryer were still where they should be - I think…). Anyways, I am now
ready to remove the expansion valve (dash and glove box have come out…) but
it still looks like that is a rather nasty job… Has anyone done this, and
could you in that case shed some light on the procedure (I do have the factory
manual, but sometimes it contains errors, like when I was going to remove the
dash it conveniently forgot to mention 2 hidden screws that needed removal…
Took me 30min to figure that out…). The expansion valve itself (or its lower
portion) is covered with some black stuff - how should one treat that? And
finally, how sensitive is the little copper tubing that comes out of the valve?
Is it a part of the valve, and where is the other end fastened? It is tough
to see there, and I would not like to remove the window for this… (although
that would make things easier). Also, is replacing the expansion valve really
necessary, or should I do a vacuum test on the system with the new receiver/
dryer first? Where else could there be a clog?
Thanks for any advice you can give, I’d like to get the car down to LA in time
for the Concours in La Palma (July 28), so the sooner I hear from you the
better…!
PS. the sidemarker lamp lenspads from XKU to this car where a tad too small
making installation a really pain… I did it using dental floss (!!) and
plenty of time, but I’ll save the details… Anyways, those 1-2mm really
do make a difference on a rubber pad…
Per Stenius (http://www.engineering.ucsb.edu/~pstenius/)
Email: per@quantum.ece.ucsb.edu
From: Tom Graham TGraham@internetmci.com
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 1996 00:31:05 -0500
Subject: R12 Substitutes
- – [ From: Tom Graham * EMC.Ver #2.3 ] –
'Morning Chaps-
First the standard disclaimer re R12 Freon etc.
Second check out web site Ozone Layer Protection | US EPA
And more specifically, probably …ozone/title6/SNAP/snap.html - or-
…ozone/title6/609/609.html
Yes, this is and OFFICIAL U.S. EPA web site !!!
In that site, I think, somewhere is a document titled “Choosing and Using
Alternative Refigerants for Motor Vehicle Air Conditioning”, dated May
1996. This document was referenced on rec.autos.tech a few weeks ago and
here’s some info from it.
- -The EPA ozone protection hotline is 1-800-296-1996.
- -FREEZ-12 (not FREEZE-12?) is still under review by EPA (May '96) But I’ve
since heard it IS being distributed by Pennzoil, so call Pennzoil. - -FRIGC FR-12 is available from Intermagnetic General 1-800-555-1442.
- -R406A and GHG-X4 are proposed acceptable, distributed by People’s Welding,
1-800-382-9006.
(R406A has been approved for STATIONARY AC systems and reportedly works
great, even better cooling than R-12 - my comment, not EPA’s). - -And about 10 others on the list/table.
I have no experience with any of them (still have some R12 on hand, lucky
me!!!)
Cherio - Tom
From: Tom Graham TGraham@internetmci.com
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 1996 00:30:43 -0500
Subject: Catalytic Convertors
- – [ From: Tom Graham * EMC.Ver #2.3 ] –
'Morning Chaps-
On the subject of cat convertors and specifically exhaust back pressure. I
had the same question re my old FORD (not Jag). I put a pressure gauge on
the exhaust manifold, before the convertor, and measured something like
less than 1 psi at idle and 2-3psi at 60 mph. This seemed reasonable, so
assumed the convertor was not plugged.
Now, my 84XJ6 has on the exhaust manifold a set of holes, drilled and
plugged, but, into which a pressure gauge could be fitted, or maybe, use
the hole from the O2 sensor. (At least this is what I remember, it is
night and late and I’m too lazy to go out and pop open the hood/bonnet!!!).
If this is so, the only question is what are normal/typical exhaust back
pressure readings??? My best guess would be about the same as the Ford, 2-
3 psi at 60-70 mph??
Cherio - Tom
From: ejt@wg.icl.co.uk (Ted Trim)
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 96 13:50:51 BST
Subject: Jag: Mk2 and similar: sidelights/dim-dip; relays
Jag-lovers,
I’m getting closer to putting Clarence (1966 3.4 Mk2) back on the road after
an extended engine bay rebuild. One thing I would like to upgrade is the
sidelights - they are next to useless.
I’d like your thoughts on a couple of ideas I’ve had.
i) Fit Mini-style headlamps with auxiliary sidelight bulbs (Minis don’t have
separate sidelights) - this would mean cutting a hole in the headlamp
bowl I think.
ii)Make the sidelight switch position operate the headlamps in dim-dip mode
when the ignition is on - as per recent UK market cars. I believe
dim-dip can be done in at least three ways, but connecting the main beams
in series looks best fo rthis application. Comments?
I have tried to keep things as original as poss, but this car will
never be concours and I would like better sidelights. What do you all think?
The car lives in the UK, if this is relevant.
Also, what is the difference between a 6RA and a 22RA relay?
Cheers,
Ted
From: henning@fp.com (Eric Henning)
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 10:44:10 -0400
Subject: Series I XJ6
Greetings all,
I’ll be looking at a 1970 XJ6 soon (maybe tonite) and was wondering if any
Series I XJ6 owners had any insight into things to look for initially.
The car has the 4.2l engine, 109k miles, has had the floorboards replaced,
been repainted, a/c blows cool but not really cold, has been stored a couple months, e[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De
months in a barn, third owner. Owner says car is in excellent condition.
He’s not asking much so I’m not that worried about getting burned.
I believe these cars have dual Stromberg’s. Is it tough to keep these
cars tuned?
I have read the info on the Jag-Lovers site (Monster guide) but any
input would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Eric Henning
henning@fp.com
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X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest
jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 9 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 203
XJ6-SIII, rear brake rotors
New Jaguars
RE: Series I XJ6
XJ6 Series 1 - window wipe seals
85’ XJS Ignition wiring
88XJ-S 5.3 V12 Idle surging & Denver Get Together on 7/9/96
XJ6 SIII replacement shocks
The lambda sensor - best thing since sliced bread
Re: XKE Headliner
Re: XKE Headliner
Re: XKE Headliner
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #200
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #200
Re: XKE Headliner
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #200
Re: XKE Headliner
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #200
Re: XKE Headliner
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #200
From: “Tracy A. Ferrell” tracy@brooktree.com
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 1996 11:37:34 -0700
Subject: XJ6-SIII, rear brake rotors
John Whitehead wrote (in part):
I purchased after market rotors (from Terry’s Jaguar)
and they are solid without this composite structure…
Does anyone have first hand knowledge on the pros and
cons of the solid rotors?
I recently had those solid rotors installed at the same time I had my '84
XJ6 differential rebuilt. I had to keep taking the car back because the
brakes were so noisy (Squealing, screaching, whatever). They put new cheap
pads in each time and after about a day they would get noisy again. They
finally put in $65US (well, that’s what they said they cost!) metal pads in
and the noise has gone.
Regards,
Tracy A. Ferrell tracy@brooktree.com in Sunny San Diego, CA, USA
From: “North, Melissa” man.apa@email.apa.org
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 96 15:22:09 -0400
Subject: New Jaguars
Will the person looking to discuss the merits, etc. of the brand new
Jaguars drop me an e-mail line? (I’ve misplaced the digest with your
message). I’m new to this list and I’m soaking up as much info as I can
in preparation for buying a Jag of my own. It’s a lengthy saving-up
process, though, so my future '96 XJ6 won’t be new in three years.
Melissa North
man.apa@email.apa.org
From: Matt Saak msaak@unicom.net
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 15:06:25 -0600
Subject: RE: Series I XJ6
Eric, can you pass along any info that you get on this question. I’m =
looking at a 69 XJ6 with a 6 cyl and the dual strombergs also. It’s in =
pretty good shape and the owner is asking $9500. I’m concerned about the =
price also. If anyone has any input to what a 69 needing a new interior, =
with minor body rust, please let me know!!!
From: Eric Henning[SMTP:henning@fp.com]
Sent: Monday, July 08, 1996 8:44 AM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Series I XJ6
Greetings all,
I’ll be looking at a 1970 XJ6 soon (maybe tonite) and was wondering if =
any
Series I XJ6 owners had any insight into things to look for initially.
The car has the 4.2l engine, 109k miles, has had the floorboards =
replaced,
been repainted, a/c blows cool but not really cold, has been stored a =
couple months, =
=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B=
[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B=
[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B=
[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B=
[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B=
[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B=
[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B=
[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B=
[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B=
[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B=
[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B=
[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B[D=1B
months in a barn, third owner. Owner says car is in excellent =
condition.
He’s not asking much so I’m not that worried about getting burned.
I believe these cars have dual Stromberg’s. Is it tough to keep these
cars tuned?
I have read the info on the Jag-Lovers site (Monster guide) but any
input would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Eric Henning
henning@fp.com
From: per@quantum.ece.ucsb.edu (Per Stenius)
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 96 13:18:55 PDT
Subject: XJ6 Series 1 - window wipe seals
Hello again! One more thing I forgot to ask in my previous posting: has anybody
replaced the window wipe seals for the rear doors? It seems to me that in order
to get this done one has to take out the window itself, since it does not go
all the way down. Again, if anybody has done this, let me know.
Per
PS. Just a reminder (I have not gotten many responses on my previous posting…)
that if anyone has replaced the expansion valve on their XJ6 Series 1 send me
an email, since I am about to do it, and it seems to be a rather tight spot…
Per Stenius (http://www.engineering.ucsb.edu/~pstenius/)
Email: per@quantum.ece.ucsb.edu
From: Jim Marsden JMARSDEN@corel.com
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 1996 14:17:43 -0600
Subject: 85’ XJS Ignition wiring
Hi all,
It’s been about 4 months since I took the left head off my 85 XJS V12. I
thought I would remember the wiring and how it went but after putting
everything back… no 12 V on the coil primary +. Just for kicks I hot wired
it to a 12v source and it ran so everything else must be OK.
So, if someone with a similiar car could verify the following: There are
four wires off the coil primary. Two leading to the secondary coil and the
other pair going to the ignition module. There are two other wires on the
same side comming out of the ignition module. One is blue & white and the
other, connects to a very thin white wire, both going into the harness.
Also there are the two wires going to the distributor pickup on the side of
the module.
My question is, normally a coil gets it’s 12v source thru a ballast resistor
but I can’t find one and I thought I read somewhere Lucas coils don’t use
one. In Kirby’s book however, there is mention of one being present. So
if I’m not missing a wire, (there are still two empty lugs on the ignition coil,
which makes me think I might be) where is the 12v normally comming
from?
Another wiring question, although not related to ignition: There is a loose
wire around the vicinity of the compressor/cruise-control area that has a
round push on threaded terminal connector. Where does this go? I see no
place or point of connecting it to the rear of the compressor and I don’t
believe the bellows have anything electrical within? Possibly it slips down
the front of the engine to some sensor???
Thanks in advance,
Jim Marsden
P.S. Love the list! (even with it’s problems)
From: jwh@dwrock.dw.lucent.com
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 96 14:53:00 PDT
Subject: 88XJ-S 5.3 V12 Idle surging & Denver Get Together on 7/9/96
1st, thanks to those who told me what I should have already known about
my possible vacuum problem to my distributor. ( look at the diagram under
the hood ) One of the lines to the by-pass valve was connected to the
shaft the butterfly is connected to, not the vacuum source on the underside
of the butterfly mounting. Looked kinda strange that the vacuum hose
rotated when you moved the throttle open. Not that I have this corrected,
my mileage has greatly improved ( from 13 to 18 mpg according to the trip
computer ) and my cold idle works for the first time in the 3 + years I have
had the car. Now I have two new problems, or problems that existed but did
not show then selves until this was corrected. After the car starts to warm
up, the engine surges a little, maybe 200 - 500 rpm. I do remember reading
past posts about this subject, but can not find them. Was this cured by
disconnecting & plugging the right side fuel pressure regulator?
Also, there is a sound in the right side of the passenger or forward of the
passenger compartment that comes on from 1 to maybe 5 minutes after the car
is first started cold. It sounds like door lock engaging, but louder or
something hitting the side of the car, like a big rock. ( even with the car
sitting still ). Any ideas?
Just a reminder note to those in the Denver, Colorado area there is a
group of us getting together at PINTS PUB tomorrow ( 7/9/96 ) at 7:pm. If
you are going to attend, please let me know by Tuesday afternoon so I can
let the pub know how many to expect. The table or reservation will be
under the name LUCAS. ( Hopefully that does not mean a corner table in a
dark corner with a burned out bulb. Thanx Merritt )
The address is 221 W. 13th Ave. 2 blocks west of Broadway on 13Th. phone -
303-534-7543. There is parking available at Dozens ( their “sister”
restaurant ), or other lots nearby.
John Himes
88 XJ-S 95K Miles
jwh@dw.att.com or
jhimes@attmail.com
303-538-2203
From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 96 11:39:00 PDT
Subject: XJ6 SIII replacement shocks
David Tordoff,
I replaced my aged OEM shocks (on my '84 XJ6 VDP) with KYB Gas shocks a
couple of years ago. They were about ~$55 each at the local parts
house. I believe the ride is equivalent to stock, maybe a bit better.
Definite improvement over the worn-out ones. Now I think that I could
have gone a little stiffer. I replaced the front shocks myself - very
straightforward (and dirty), but the rears I left to my mechanic as I
don’t have the tools or inclination. He did the rears in the course of
other major rear end work - the rate for the shock part of the job was
trivial in comparison.
Regards,
David
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 22:41:34 GMT
Subject: The lambda sensor - best thing since sliced bread
Long time ago I promised some of you a status report regarding the
usefullness of a lambda oxygen sensor.
The conclusion is that it does all I had expected, and more. I will
certainly never ever change an exhaust system on any of my cars without
adding one. For $30 and an hour work you suddenly get full control of what
is happening in the combustion chambers.
What you need in addition is an accurate voltmeter; you’ll find perfectly
good enough digital instruments at approx $20. I’m looking at several
options for a more permanent solution, preferably one which gives the
lambda reading directly. The display of three LEDs sold at various racing
shops is pretty useless.
You’ll get full monitoring of the mixture under all conditions, all the
way from lambda (excess air ratio) from 0.7 to 1.3. The reaction to load
variations is instantaneous, and all indications I have is that the
readings are pretty accurate, too.
Together with a vacuum instrument and the Lucas manual, it enables you to
set up the mixture for the Lucas mechanical injection correctly for all
conditions (surprisingly accurately so, given the simlicity of the control
system).
I’ve now set it up to lambda 0.9 for the WOT region, between 1.0 to 1.03
for medium throttle, and approaching 1.1 under very light load conditions.
It should work equally well for setting up a carburettor.
I can only guesstimate that many may save 10-20% on their petrol bill,
and increase power by 5% by setting the mixture up properly.
Further details available at:
http://www.sn.no/~egilk/t_tune.html
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: Patrick Krejcik pkr@SLAC.Stanford.EDU
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 1996 17:56:12 -0700
Subject: Re: XKE Headliner
I was reluctant to reply while the list was haywire but I think its safe
to venture now.
The edge trim strips can be peeled back by first removing the
padded,upholstered rails above the doors. These are held on by sheet
metal screws from the rear side. To access the screws you have to peel
away the door seal rubber which usually breaks so it is best to combine
this job with the installation of new door seals.
Cheers, Patrick.
1965 Series I E-Type FHC.
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know >how to remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 >332-9302) hasstarted manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I >will keep
the list posted.Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: Patrick Krejcik pkr@SLAC.Stanford.EDU
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 1996 17:56:12 -0700
Subject: Re: XKE Headliner
I was reluctant to reply while the list was haywire but I think its safe
to venture now.
The edge trim strips can be peeled back by first removing the
padded,upholstered rails above the doors. These are held on by sheet
metal screws from the rear side. To access the screws you have to peel
away the door seal rubber which usually breaks so it is best to combine
this job with the installation of new door seals.
Cheers, Patrick.
1965 Series I E-Type FHC.
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know >how to remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 >332-9302) hasstarted manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I >will keep
the list posted.Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: Patrick Krejcik pkr@SLAC.Stanford.EDU
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 1996 17:56:12 -0700
Subject: Re: XKE Headliner
I was reluctant to reply while the list was haywire but I think its safe
to venture now.
The edge trim strips can be peeled back by first removing the
padded,upholstered rails above the doors. These are held on by sheet
metal screws from the rear side. To access the screws you have to peel
away the door seal rubber which usually breaks so it is best to combine
this job with the installation of new door seals.
Cheers, Patrick.
1965 Series I E-Type FHC.
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know >how to remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 >332-9302) hasstarted manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I >will keep
the list posted.Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: “Ross Hilton” pacrefrh@oznet02.ozemail.com.au
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 19:10:32 +1110
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #200
Frans Hoekemeijer wrote:
I don’t think that Jaguars are now that much more
expensive in relation to other cars than in the 50’s and 60’s. Then the price of
a new Jaguar was about 3 to 4 times the price of a small car and
it is still like that. Also, not many people then could buy them new, and it is
still basically the same.
Agreed. We forget that Jaguars always were, and still are, rich
mens/womens playthings. Although its true that Lyons always made
certain that Jaguar cars were cheaper than the competition, it should
be remembered that the competition was incredibly expensive. What,
for instance, do you compare to an XK120? I would say a Ferrari,
though others may disagree. Same with a MKVII… a Bentley? I didn’t
see many ferrari’s and Bentleys around my home town when I was a kid.
Captains of industry were the Jaguar drivers in those days. The man
in the street owned a Ford Prefect or used the bus!
regards
Ross Hilton
From: “Ross Hilton” pacrefrh@oznet02.ozemail.com.au
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 19:10:32 +1110
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #200
Frans Hoekemeijer wrote:
I don’t think that Jaguars are now that much more
expensive in relation to other cars than in the 50’s and 60’s. Then the price of
a new Jaguar was about 3 to 4 times the price of a small car and
it is still like that. Also, not many people then could buy them new, and it is
still basically the same.
Agreed. We forget that Jaguars always were, and still are, rich
mens/womens playthings. Although its true that Lyons always made
certain that Jaguar cars were cheaper than the competition, it should
be remembered that the competition was incredibly expensive. What,
for instance, do you compare to an XK120? I would say a Ferrari,
though others may disagree. Same with a MKVII… a Bentley? I didn’t
see many ferrari’s and Bentleys around my home town when I was a kid.
Captains of industry were the Jaguar drivers in those days. The man
in the street owned a Ford Prefect or used the bus!
regards
Ross Hilton
From: Patrick Krejcik pkr@SLAC.Stanford.EDU
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 1996 17:56:12 -0700
Subject: Re: XKE Headliner
I was reluctant to reply while the list was haywire but I think its safe
to venture now.
The edge trim strips can be peeled back by first removing the
padded,upholstered rails above the doors. These are held on by sheet
metal screws from the rear side. To access the screws you have to peel
away the door seal rubber which usually breaks so it is best to combine
this job with the installation of new door seals.
Cheers, Patrick.
1965 Series I E-Type FHC.
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know >how to remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 >332-9302) hasstarted manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I >will keep
the list posted.Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: “Ross Hilton” pacrefrh@oznet02.ozemail.com.au
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 19:10:32 +1110
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #200
Frans Hoekemeijer wrote:
I don’t think that Jaguars are now that much more
expensive in relation to other cars than in the 50’s and 60’s. Then the price of
a new Jaguar was about 3 to 4 times the price of a small car and
it is still like that. Also, not many people then could buy them new, and it is
still basically the same.
Agreed. We forget that Jaguars always were, and still are, rich
mens/womens playthings. Although its true that Lyons always made
certain that Jaguar cars were cheaper than the competition, it should
be remembered that the competition was incredibly expensive. What,
for instance, do you compare to an XK120? I would say a Ferrari,
though others may disagree. Same with a MKVII… a Bentley? I didn’t
see many ferrari’s and Bentleys around my home town when I was a kid.
Captains of industry were the Jaguar drivers in those days. The man
in the street owned a Ford Prefect or used the bus!
regards
Ross Hilton
From: Patrick Krejcik pkr@SLAC.Stanford.EDU
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 1996 17:56:12 -0700
Subject: Re: XKE Headliner
I was reluctant to reply while the list was haywire but I think its safe
to venture now.
The edge trim strips can be peeled back by first removing the
padded,upholstered rails above the doors. These are held on by sheet
metal screws from the rear side. To access the screws you have to peel
away the door seal rubber which usually breaks so it is best to combine
this job with the installation of new door seals.
Cheers, Patrick.
1965 Series I E-Type FHC.
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know >how to remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 >332-9302) hasstarted manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I >will keep
the list posted.Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: “Ross Hilton” pacrefrh@oznet02.ozemail.com.au
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 19:10:32 +1110
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #200
Frans Hoekemeijer wrote:
I don’t think that Jaguars are now that much more
expensive in relation to other cars than in the 50’s and 60’s. Then the price of
a new Jaguar was about 3 to 4 times the price of a small car and
it is still like that. Also, not many people then could buy them new, and it is
still basically the same.
Agreed. We forget that Jaguars always were, and still are, rich
mens/womens playthings. Although its true that Lyons always made
certain that Jaguar cars were cheaper than the competition, it should
be remembered that the competition was incredibly expensive. What,
for instance, do you compare to an XK120? I would say a Ferrari,
though others may disagree. Same with a MKVII… a Bentley? I didn’t
see many ferrari’s and Bentleys around my home town when I was a kid.
Captains of industry were the Jaguar drivers in those days. The man
in the street owned a Ford Prefect or used the bus!
regards
Ross Hilton
From: Patrick Krejcik pkr@SLAC.Stanford.EDU
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 1996 17:56:12 -0700
Subject: Re: XKE Headliner
I was reluctant to reply while the list was haywire but I think its safe
to venture now.
The edge trim strips can be peeled back by first removing the
padded,upholstered rails above the doors. These are held on by sheet
metal screws from the rear side. To access the screws you have to peel
away the door seal rubber which usually breaks so it is best to combine
this job with the installation of new door seals.
Cheers, Patrick.
1965 Series I E-Type FHC.
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know >how to remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 >332-9302) hasstarted manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I >will keep
the list posted.Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: “Ross Hilton” pacrefrh@oznet02.ozemail.com.au
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 19:10:32 +1110
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #200
Frans Hoekemeijer wrote:
I don’t think that Jaguars are now that much more
expensive in relation to other cars than in the 50’s and 60’s. Then the price of
a new Jaguar was about 3 to 4 times the price of a small car and
it is still like that. Also, not many people then could buy them new, and it is
still basically the same.
Agreed. We forget that Jaguars always were, and still are, rich
mens/womens playthings. Although its true that Lyons always made
certain that Jaguar cars were cheaper than the competition, it should
be remembered that the competition was incredibly expensive. What,
for instance, do you compare to an XK120? I would say a Ferrari,
though others may disagree. Same with a MKVII… a Bentley? I didn’t
see many ferrari’s and Bentleys around my home town when I was a kid.
Captains of industry were the Jaguar drivers in those days. The man
in the street owned a Ford Prefect or used the bus!
regards
Ross Hilton
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #203
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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 9 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 204
Re: XKE Headliner
Re: 85’ XJS Ignition wiring
Re: 85’ XJS Ignition wiring
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #200
Re: XKE Headliner
Re: 85’ XJS Ignition wiring
More R-12 Stuff
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #200
Re: XKE Headliner
More R-12 Stuff
Re: 85’ XJS Ignition wiring
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #200
Re: XKE Headliner
More R-12 Stuff
Re: 85’ XJS Ignition wiring
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #200
Re: XKE Headliner
More R-12 Stuff
From: Patrick Krejcik pkr@SLAC.Stanford.EDU
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 1996 17:56:12 -0700
Subject: Re: XKE Headliner
I was reluctant to reply while the list was haywire but I think its safe
to venture now.
The edge trim strips can be peeled back by first removing the
padded,upholstered rails above the doors. These are held on by sheet
metal screws from the rear side. To access the screws you have to peel
away the door seal rubber which usually breaks so it is best to combine
this job with the installation of new door seals.
Cheers, Patrick.
1965 Series I E-Type FHC.
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know >how to remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 >332-9302) hasstarted manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I >will keep
the list posted.Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 22:52:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: 85’ XJS Ignition wiring
My question is, normally a coil gets it’s 12v source thru a ballast resistor
but I can’t find one and I thought I read somewhere Lucas coils don’t use
one. In Kirby’s book however, there is mention of one being present. So
if I’m not missing a wire, (there are still two empty lugs on the ignition coil,
which makes me think I might be) where is the 12v normally comming
from?
If there is a ballast, it’s a piece of resistor wire.
There is a seperate 12v (and tach out) wire set going to the coil. These
two wires are in the harness that comes around the back of the engine,
and feeds the two oil pressure units, and I believe the full throttle
switches.
in addition, the amplifier will have two wires to the coil, two to
the distributor, and two to the injection harness (bullet plugs). Plus
there are two more wires from the coil to the aux coil up in front
of the radiator.
This gives a total of six wires on the coil. I think I have all that
right. I just put heads on an 84 last week…
Another wiring question, although not related to ignition: There is a loose
wire around the vicinity of the compressor/cruise-control area that has a
round push on threaded terminal connector. Where does this go? I see no
It goes to the overheat switch in the back of the compressor. Often when
a new compressor is installed, the switch is not moved over to the new
compressor.
Thanks in advance,
Jim Marsden
P.S. Love the list! (even with it’s problems)
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 22:52:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: 85’ XJS Ignition wiring
My question is, normally a coil gets it’s 12v source thru a ballast resistor
but I can’t find one and I thought I read somewhere Lucas coils don’t use
one. In Kirby’s book however, there is mention of one being present. So
if I’m not missing a wire, (there are still two empty lugs on the ignition coil,
which makes me think I might be) where is the 12v normally comming
from?
If there is a ballast, it’s a piece of resistor wire.
There is a seperate 12v (and tach out) wire set going to the coil. These
two wires are in the harness that comes around the back of the engine,
and feeds the two oil pressure units, and I believe the full throttle
switches.
in addition, the amplifier will have two wires to the coil, two to
the distributor, and two to the injection harness (bullet plugs). Plus
there are two more wires from the coil to the aux coil up in front
of the radiator.
This gives a total of six wires on the coil. I think I have all that
right. I just put heads on an 84 last week…
Another wiring question, although not related to ignition: There is a loose
wire around the vicinity of the compressor/cruise-control area that has a
round push on threaded terminal connector. Where does this go? I see no
It goes to the overheat switch in the back of the compressor. Often when
a new compressor is installed, the switch is not moved over to the new
compressor.
Thanks in advance,
Jim Marsden
P.S. Love the list! (even with it’s problems)
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
From: “Ross Hilton” pacrefrh@oznet02.ozemail.com.au
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 19:10:32 +1110
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #200
Frans Hoekemeijer wrote:
I don’t think that Jaguars are now that much more
expensive in relation to other cars than in the 50’s and 60’s. Then the price of
a new Jaguar was about 3 to 4 times the price of a small car and
it is still like that. Also, not many people then could buy them new, and it is
still basically the same.
Agreed. We forget that Jaguars always were, and still are, rich
mens/womens playthings. Although its true that Lyons always made
certain that Jaguar cars were cheaper than the competition, it should
be remembered that the competition was incredibly expensive. What,
for instance, do you compare to an XK120? I would say a Ferrari,
though others may disagree. Same with a MKVII… a Bentley? I didn’t
see many ferrari’s and Bentleys around my home town when I was a kid.
Captains of industry were the Jaguar drivers in those days. The man
in the street owned a Ford Prefect or used the bus!
regards
Ross Hilton
From: Patrick Krejcik pkr@SLAC.Stanford.EDU
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 1996 17:56:12 -0700
Subject: Re: XKE Headliner
I was reluctant to reply while the list was haywire but I think its safe
to venture now.
The edge trim strips can be peeled back by first removing the
padded,upholstered rails above the doors. These are held on by sheet
metal screws from the rear side. To access the screws you have to peel
away the door seal rubber which usually breaks so it is best to combine
this job with the installation of new door seals.
Cheers, Patrick.
1965 Series I E-Type FHC.
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know >how to remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 >332-9302) hasstarted manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I >will keep
the list posted.Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 22:52:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: 85’ XJS Ignition wiring
My question is, normally a coil gets it’s 12v source thru a ballast resistor
but I can’t find one and I thought I read somewhere Lucas coils don’t use
one. In Kirby’s book however, there is mention of one being present. So
if I’m not missing a wire, (there are still two empty lugs on the ignition coil,
which makes me think I might be) where is the 12v normally comming
from?
If there is a ballast, it’s a piece of resistor wire.
There is a seperate 12v (and tach out) wire set going to the coil. These
two wires are in the harness that comes around the back of the engine,
and feeds the two oil pressure units, and I believe the full throttle
switches.
in addition, the amplifier will have two wires to the coil, two to
the distributor, and two to the injection harness (bullet plugs). Plus
there are two more wires from the coil to the aux coil up in front
of the radiator.
This gives a total of six wires on the coil. I think I have all that
right. I just put heads on an 84 last week…
Another wiring question, although not related to ignition: There is a loose
wire around the vicinity of the compressor/cruise-control area that has a
round push on threaded terminal connector. Where does this go? I see no
It goes to the overheat switch in the back of the compressor. Often when
a new compressor is installed, the switch is not moved over to the new
compressor.
Thanks in advance,
Jim Marsden
P.S. Love the list! (even with it’s problems)
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
From: Tom Graham TGraham@internetmci.com
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 1996 21:32:12 -0500
Subject: More R-12 Stuff
- – [ From: Tom Graham * EMC.Ver #2.3 ] –
'Morning Chaps-
Got some more stuff re this, in particular the Pennzoil FRIGC FR-12
substitute. Pennzoil has a web site, http://www.pennzoil.com. In the new
products section, is a page of info on their FRIGC. Briefly it says that
FR-12 is an R-12 substitute and all that is required is that you change
some fittings which cost only about $10.
They have a toll free number 1-800-424-3907. I called it and asked about
where to buy FR-12 in southern CA, they said to call 1-800-458-4998. I did
and they said that FR-12 is not distributed via the chain stores, e.g. Trak,
, PEP Boys, etc but through independent mechanics. Also, it is available
only in 30 pound containers. I asked for a local, Anaheim, distributor and
they gave me “Ron’s Auto Parts” (714) 490-0805. I called them and they
said they sell FR-12, 30 lbs for $265. And that NO liscense or such is
required for purchase. End of story.
Cherio - Tom
From: “Ross Hilton” pacrefrh@oznet02.ozemail.com.au
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 19:10:32 +1110
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #200
Frans Hoekemeijer wrote:
I don’t think that Jaguars are now that much more
expensive in relation to other cars than in the 50’s and 60’s. Then the price of
a new Jaguar was about 3 to 4 times the price of a small car and
it is still like that. Also, not many people then could buy them new, and it is
still basically the same.
Agreed. We forget that Jaguars always were, and still are, rich
mens/womens playthings. Although its true that Lyons always made
certain that Jaguar cars were cheaper than the competition, it should
be remembered that the competition was incredibly expensive. What,
for instance, do you compare to an XK120? I would say a Ferrari,
though others may disagree. Same with a MKVII… a Bentley? I didn’t
see many ferrari’s and Bentleys around my home town when I was a kid.
Captains of industry were the Jaguar drivers in those days. The man
in the street owned a Ford Prefect or used the bus!
regards
Ross Hilton
From: Patrick Krejcik pkr@SLAC.Stanford.EDU
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 1996 17:56:12 -0700
Subject: Re: XKE Headliner
I was reluctant to reply while the list was haywire but I think its safe
to venture now.
The edge trim strips can be peeled back by first removing the
padded,upholstered rails above the doors. These are held on by sheet
metal screws from the rear side. To access the screws you have to peel
away the door seal rubber which usually breaks so it is best to combine
this job with the installation of new door seals.
Cheers, Patrick.
1965 Series I E-Type FHC.
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know >how to remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 >332-9302) hasstarted manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I >will keep
the list posted.Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: Tom Graham TGraham@internetmci.com
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 1996 21:32:12 -0500
Subject: More R-12 Stuff
- – [ From: Tom Graham * EMC.Ver #2.3 ] –
'Morning Chaps-
Got some more stuff re this, in particular the Pennzoil FRIGC FR-12
substitute. Pennzoil has a web site, http://www.pennzoil.com. In the new
products section, is a page of info on their FRIGC. Briefly it says that
FR-12 is an R-12 substitute and all that is required is that you change
some fittings which cost only about $10.
They have a toll free number 1-800-424-3907. I called it and asked about
where to buy FR-12 in southern CA, they said to call 1-800-458-4998. I did
and they said that FR-12 is not distributed via the chain stores, e.g. Trak,
, PEP Boys, etc but through independent mechanics. Also, it is available
only in 30 pound containers. I asked for a local, Anaheim, distributor and
they gave me “Ron’s Auto Parts” (714) 490-0805. I called them and they
said they sell FR-12, 30 lbs for $265. And that NO liscense or such is
required for purchase. End of story.
Cherio - Tom
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 22:52:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: 85’ XJS Ignition wiring
My question is, normally a coil gets it’s 12v source thru a ballast resistor
but I can’t find one and I thought I read somewhere Lucas coils don’t use
one. In Kirby’s book however, there is mention of one being present. So
if I’m not missing a wire, (there are still two empty lugs on the ignition coil,
which makes me think I might be) where is the 12v normally comming
from?
If there is a ballast, it’s a piece of resistor wire.
There is a seperate 12v (and tach out) wire set going to the coil. These
two wires are in the harness that comes around the back of the engine,
and feeds the two oil pressure units, and I believe the full throttle
switches.
in addition, the amplifier will have two wires to the coil, two to
the distributor, and two to the injection harness (bullet plugs). Plus
there are two more wires from the coil to the aux coil up in front
of the radiator.
This gives a total of six wires on the coil. I think I have all that
right. I just put heads on an 84 last week…
Another wiring question, although not related to ignition: There is a loose
wire around the vicinity of the compressor/cruise-control area that has a
round push on threaded terminal connector. Where does this go? I see no
It goes to the overheat switch in the back of the compressor. Often when
a new compressor is installed, the switch is not moved over to the new
compressor.
Thanks in advance,
Jim Marsden
P.S. Love the list! (even with it’s problems)
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
From: “Ross Hilton” pacrefrh@oznet02.ozemail.com.au
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 19:10:32 +1110
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #200
Frans Hoekemeijer wrote:
I don’t think that Jaguars are now that much more
expensive in relation to other cars than in the 50’s and 60’s. Then the price of
a new Jaguar was about 3 to 4 times the price of a small car and
it is still like that. Also, not many people then could buy them new, and it is
still basically the same.
Agreed. We forget that Jaguars always were, and still are, rich
mens/womens playthings. Although its true that Lyons always made
certain that Jaguar cars were cheaper than the competition, it should
be remembered that the competition was incredibly expensive. What,
for instance, do you compare to an XK120? I would say a Ferrari,
though others may disagree. Same with a MKVII… a Bentley? I didn’t
see many ferrari’s and Bentleys around my home town when I was a kid.
Captains of industry were the Jaguar drivers in those days. The man
in the street owned a Ford Prefect or used the bus!
regards
Ross Hilton
From: Patrick Krejcik pkr@SLAC.Stanford.EDU
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 1996 17:56:12 -0700
Subject: Re: XKE Headliner
I was reluctant to reply while the list was haywire but I think its safe
to venture now.
The edge trim strips can be peeled back by first removing the
padded,upholstered rails above the doors. These are held on by sheet
metal screws from the rear side. To access the screws you have to peel
away the door seal rubber which usually breaks so it is best to combine
this job with the installation of new door seals.
Cheers, Patrick.
1965 Series I E-Type FHC.
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know >how to remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 >332-9302) hasstarted manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I >will keep
the list posted.Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: Tom Graham TGraham@internetmci.com
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 1996 21:32:12 -0500
Subject: More R-12 Stuff
- – [ From: Tom Graham * EMC.Ver #2.3 ] –
'Morning Chaps-
Got some more stuff re this, in particular the Pennzoil FRIGC FR-12
substitute. Pennzoil has a web site, http://www.pennzoil.com. In the new
products section, is a page of info on their FRIGC. Briefly it says that
FR-12 is an R-12 substitute and all that is required is that you change
some fittings which cost only about $10.
They have a toll free number 1-800-424-3907. I called it and asked about
where to buy FR-12 in southern CA, they said to call 1-800-458-4998. I did
and they said that FR-12 is not distributed via the chain stores, e.g. Trak,
, PEP Boys, etc but through independent mechanics. Also, it is available
only in 30 pound containers. I asked for a local, Anaheim, distributor and
they gave me “Ron’s Auto Parts” (714) 490-0805. I called them and they
said they sell FR-12, 30 lbs for $265. And that NO liscense or such is
required for purchase. End of story.
Cherio - Tom
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 22:52:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: 85’ XJS Ignition wiring
My question is, normally a coil gets it’s 12v source thru a ballast resistor
but I can’t find one and I thought I read somewhere Lucas coils don’t use
one. In Kirby’s book however, there is mention of one being present. So
if I’m not missing a wire, (there are still two empty lugs on the ignition coil,
which makes me think I might be) where is the 12v normally comming
from?
If there is a ballast, it’s a piece of resistor wire.
There is a seperate 12v (and tach out) wire set going to the coil. These
two wires are in the harness that comes around the back of the engine,
and feeds the two oil pressure units, and I believe the full throttle
switches.
in addition, the amplifier will have two wires to the coil, two to
the distributor, and two to the injection harness (bullet plugs). Plus
there are two more wires from the coil to the aux coil up in front
of the radiator.
This gives a total of six wires on the coil. I think I have all that
right. I just put heads on an 84 last week…
Another wiring question, although not related to ignition: There is a loose
wire around the vicinity of the compressor/cruise-control area that has a
round push on threaded terminal connector. Where does this go? I see no
It goes to the overheat switch in the back of the compressor. Often when
a new compressor is installed, the switch is not moved over to the new
compressor.
Thanks in advance,
Jim Marsden
P.S. Love the list! (even with it’s problems)
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
From: “Ross Hilton” pacrefrh@oznet02.ozemail.com.au
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 19:10:32 +1110
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #200
Frans Hoekemeijer wrote:
I don’t think that Jaguars are now that much more
expensive in relation to other cars than in the 50’s and 60’s. Then the price of
a new Jaguar was about 3 to 4 times the price of a small car and
it is still like that. Also, not many people then could buy them new, and it is
still basically the same.
Agreed. We forget that Jaguars always were, and still are, rich
mens/womens playthings. Although its true that Lyons always made
certain that Jaguar cars were cheaper than the competition, it should
be remembered that the competition was incredibly expensive. What,
for instance, do you compare to an XK120? I would say a Ferrari,
though others may disagree. Same with a MKVII… a Bentley? I didn’t
see many ferrari’s and Bentleys around my home town when I was a kid.
Captains of industry were the Jaguar drivers in those days. The man
in the street owned a Ford Prefect or used the bus!
regards
Ross Hilton
From: Patrick Krejcik pkr@SLAC.Stanford.EDU
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 1996 17:56:12 -0700
Subject: Re: XKE Headliner
I was reluctant to reply while the list was haywire but I think its safe
to venture now.
The edge trim strips can be peeled back by first removing the
padded,upholstered rails above the doors. These are held on by sheet
metal screws from the rear side. To access the screws you have to peel
away the door seal rubber which usually breaks so it is best to combine
this job with the installation of new door seals.
Cheers, Patrick.
1965 Series I E-Type FHC.
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know >how to remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 >332-9302) hasstarted manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I >will keep
the list posted.Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: Tom Graham TGraham@internetmci.com
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 1996 21:32:12 -0500
Subject: More R-12 Stuff
- – [ From: Tom Graham * EMC.Ver #2.3 ] –
'Morning Chaps-
Got some more stuff re this, in particular the Pennzoil FRIGC FR-12
substitute. Pennzoil has a web site, http://www.pennzoil.com. In the new
products section, is a page of info on their FRIGC. Briefly it says that
FR-12 is an R-12 substitute and all that is required is that you change
some fittings which cost only about $10.
They have a toll free number 1-800-424-3907. I called it and asked about
where to buy FR-12 in southern CA, they said to call 1-800-458-4998. I did
and they said that FR-12 is not distributed via the chain stores, e.g. Trak,
, PEP Boys, etc but through independent mechanics. Also, it is available
only in 30 pound containers. I asked for a local, Anaheim, distributor and
they gave me “Ron’s Auto Parts” (714) 490-0805. I called them and they
said they sell FR-12, 30 lbs for $265. And that NO liscense or such is
required for purchase. End of story.
Cherio - Tom
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #204
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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 9 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 205
Re: 85’ XJS Ignition wiring
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #200
Re: XKE Headliner
More R-12 Stuff
Re: 85’ XJS Ignition wiring
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #200
Re: XKE Headliner
More R-12 Stuff
Re: 85’ XJS Ignition wiring
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #200
Re: XKE Headliner
More R-12 Stuff
Re: 85’ XJS Ignition wiring
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #200
Re: XKE Headliner
Shock absorbers
Cruise Control 83 XJ6 S3
Bunged up list.
jag
Anyone in Boston?
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 22:52:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: 85’ XJS Ignition wiring
My question is, normally a coil gets it’s 12v source thru a ballast resistor
but I can’t find one and I thought I read somewhere Lucas coils don’t use
one. In Kirby’s book however, there is mention of one being present. So
if I’m not missing a wire, (there are still two empty lugs on the ignition coil,
which makes me think I might be) where is the 12v normally comming
from?
If there is a ballast, it’s a piece of resistor wire.
There is a seperate 12v (and tach out) wire set going to the coil. These
two wires are in the harness that comes around the back of the engine,
and feeds the two oil pressure units, and I believe the full throttle
switches.
in addition, the amplifier will have two wires to the coil, two to
the distributor, and two to the injection harness (bullet plugs). Plus
there are two more wires from the coil to the aux coil up in front
of the radiator.
This gives a total of six wires on the coil. I think I have all that
right. I just put heads on an 84 last week…
Another wiring question, although not related to ignition: There is a loose
wire around the vicinity of the compressor/cruise-control area that has a
round push on threaded terminal connector. Where does this go? I see no
It goes to the overheat switch in the back of the compressor. Often when
a new compressor is installed, the switch is not moved over to the new
compressor.
Thanks in advance,
Jim Marsden
P.S. Love the list! (even with it’s problems)
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
From: “Ross Hilton” pacrefrh@oznet02.ozemail.com.au
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 19:10:32 +1110
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #200
Frans Hoekemeijer wrote:
I don’t think that Jaguars are now that much more
expensive in relation to other cars than in the 50’s and 60’s. Then the price of
a new Jaguar was about 3 to 4 times the price of a small car and
it is still like that. Also, not many people then could buy them new, and it is
still basically the same.
Agreed. We forget that Jaguars always were, and still are, rich
mens/womens playthings. Although its true that Lyons always made
certain that Jaguar cars were cheaper than the competition, it should
be remembered that the competition was incredibly expensive. What,
for instance, do you compare to an XK120? I would say a Ferrari,
though others may disagree. Same with a MKVII… a Bentley? I didn’t
see many ferrari’s and Bentleys around my home town when I was a kid.
Captains of industry were the Jaguar drivers in those days. The man
in the street owned a Ford Prefect or used the bus!
regards
Ross Hilton
From: Patrick Krejcik pkr@SLAC.Stanford.EDU
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 1996 17:56:12 -0700
Subject: Re: XKE Headliner
I was reluctant to reply while the list was haywire but I think its safe
to venture now.
The edge trim strips can be peeled back by first removing the
padded,upholstered rails above the doors. These are held on by sheet
metal screws from the rear side. To access the screws you have to peel
away the door seal rubber which usually breaks so it is best to combine
this job with the installation of new door seals.
Cheers, Patrick.
1965 Series I E-Type FHC.
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know >how to remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 >332-9302) hasstarted manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I >will keep
the list posted.Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: Tom Graham TGraham@internetmci.com
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 1996 21:32:12 -0500
Subject: More R-12 Stuff
- – [ From: Tom Graham * EMC.Ver #2.3 ] –
'Morning Chaps-
Got some more stuff re this, in particular the Pennzoil FRIGC FR-12
substitute. Pennzoil has a web site, http://www.pennzoil.com. In the new
products section, is a page of info on their FRIGC. Briefly it says that
FR-12 is an R-12 substitute and all that is required is that you change
some fittings which cost only about $10.
They have a toll free number 1-800-424-3907. I called it and asked about
where to buy FR-12 in southern CA, they said to call 1-800-458-4998. I did
and they said that FR-12 is not distributed via the chain stores, e.g. Trak,
, PEP Boys, etc but through independent mechanics. Also, it is available
only in 30 pound containers. I asked for a local, Anaheim, distributor and
they gave me “Ron’s Auto Parts” (714) 490-0805. I called them and they
said they sell FR-12, 30 lbs for $265. And that NO liscense or such is
required for purchase. End of story.
Cherio - Tom
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 22:52:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: 85’ XJS Ignition wiring
My question is, normally a coil gets it’s 12v source thru a ballast resistor
but I can’t find one and I thought I read somewhere Lucas coils don’t use
one. In Kirby’s book however, there is mention of one being present. So
if I’m not missing a wire, (there are still two empty lugs on the ignition coil,
which makes me think I might be) where is the 12v normally comming
from?
If there is a ballast, it’s a piece of resistor wire.
There is a seperate 12v (and tach out) wire set going to the coil. These
two wires are in the harness that comes around the back of the engine,
and feeds the two oil pressure units, and I believe the full throttle
switches.
in addition, the amplifier will have two wires to the coil, two to
the distributor, and two to the injection harness (bullet plugs). Plus
there are two more wires from the coil to the aux coil up in front
of the radiator.
This gives a total of six wires on the coil. I think I have all that
right. I just put heads on an 84 last week…
Another wiring question, although not related to ignition: There is a loose
wire around the vicinity of the compressor/cruise-control area that has a
round push on threaded terminal connector. Where does this go? I see no
It goes to the overheat switch in the back of the compressor. Often when
a new compressor is installed, the switch is not moved over to the new
compressor.
Thanks in advance,
Jim Marsden
P.S. Love the list! (even with it’s problems)
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
From: “Ross Hilton” pacrefrh@oznet02.ozemail.com.au
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 19:10:32 +1110
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #200
Frans Hoekemeijer wrote:
I don’t think that Jaguars are now that much more
expensive in relation to other cars than in the 50’s and 60’s. Then the price of
a new Jaguar was about 3 to 4 times the price of a small car and
it is still like that. Also, not many people then could buy them new, and it is
still basically the same.
Agreed. We forget that Jaguars always were, and still are, rich
mens/womens playthings. Although its true that Lyons always made
certain that Jaguar cars were cheaper than the competition, it should
be remembered that the competition was incredibly expensive. What,
for instance, do you compare to an XK120? I would say a Ferrari,
though others may disagree. Same with a MKVII… a Bentley? I didn’t
see many ferrari’s and Bentleys around my home town when I was a kid.
Captains of industry were the Jaguar drivers in those days. The man
in the street owned a Ford Prefect or used the bus!
regards
Ross Hilton
From: Patrick Krejcik pkr@SLAC.Stanford.EDU
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 1996 17:56:12 -0700
Subject: Re: XKE Headliner
I was reluctant to reply while the list was haywire but I think its safe
to venture now.
The edge trim strips can be peeled back by first removing the
padded,upholstered rails above the doors. These are held on by sheet
metal screws from the rear side. To access the screws you have to peel
away the door seal rubber which usually breaks so it is best to combine
this job with the installation of new door seals.
Cheers, Patrick.
1965 Series I E-Type FHC.
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know >how to remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 >332-9302) hasstarted manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I >will keep
the list posted.Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: Tom Graham TGraham@internetmci.com
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 1996 21:32:12 -0500
Subject: More R-12 Stuff
- – [ From: Tom Graham * EMC.Ver #2.3 ] –
'Morning Chaps-
Got some more stuff re this, in particular the Pennzoil FRIGC FR-12
substitute. Pennzoil has a web site, http://www.pennzoil.com. In the new
products section, is a page of info on their FRIGC. Briefly it says that
FR-12 is an R-12 substitute and all that is required is that you change
some fittings which cost only about $10.
They have a toll free number 1-800-424-3907. I called it and asked about
where to buy FR-12 in southern CA, they said to call 1-800-458-4998. I did
and they said that FR-12 is not distributed via the chain stores, e.g. Trak,
, PEP Boys, etc but through independent mechanics. Also, it is available
only in 30 pound containers. I asked for a local, Anaheim, distributor and
they gave me “Ron’s Auto Parts” (714) 490-0805. I called them and they
said they sell FR-12, 30 lbs for $265. And that NO liscense or such is
required for purchase. End of story.
Cherio - Tom
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 22:52:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: 85’ XJS Ignition wiring
My question is, normally a coil gets it’s 12v source thru a ballast resistor
but I can’t find one and I thought I read somewhere Lucas coils don’t use
one. In Kirby’s book however, there is mention of one being present. So
if I’m not missing a wire, (there are still two empty lugs on the ignition coil,
which makes me think I might be) where is the 12v normally comming
from?
If there is a ballast, it’s a piece of resistor wire.
There is a seperate 12v (and tach out) wire set going to the coil. These
two wires are in the harness that comes around the back of the engine,
and feeds the two oil pressure units, and I believe the full throttle
switches.
in addition, the amplifier will have two wires to the coil, two to
the distributor, and two to the injection harness (bullet plugs). Plus
there are two more wires from the coil to the aux coil up in front
of the radiator.
This gives a total of six wires on the coil. I think I have all that
right. I just put heads on an 84 last week…
Another wiring question, although not related to ignition: There is a loose
wire around the vicinity of the compressor/cruise-control area that has a
round push on threaded terminal connector. Where does this go? I see no
It goes to the overheat switch in the back of the compressor. Often when
a new compressor is installed, the switch is not moved over to the new
compressor.
Thanks in advance,
Jim Marsden
P.S. Love the list! (even with it’s problems)
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
From: “Ross Hilton” pacrefrh@oznet02.ozemail.com.au
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 19:10:32 +1110
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #200
Frans Hoekemeijer wrote:
I don’t think that Jaguars are now that much more
expensive in relation to other cars than in the 50’s and 60’s. Then the price of
a new Jaguar was about 3 to 4 times the price of a small car and
it is still like that. Also, not many people then could buy them new, and it is
still basically the same.
Agreed. We forget that Jaguars always were, and still are, rich
mens/womens playthings. Although its true that Lyons always made
certain that Jaguar cars were cheaper than the competition, it should
be remembered that the competition was incredibly expensive. What,
for instance, do you compare to an XK120? I would say a Ferrari,
though others may disagree. Same with a MKVII… a Bentley? I didn’t
see many ferrari’s and Bentleys around my home town when I was a kid.
Captains of industry were the Jaguar drivers in those days. The man
in the street owned a Ford Prefect or used the bus!
regards
Ross Hilton
From: Patrick Krejcik pkr@SLAC.Stanford.EDU
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 1996 17:56:12 -0700
Subject: Re: XKE Headliner
I was reluctant to reply while the list was haywire but I think its safe
to venture now.
The edge trim strips can be peeled back by first removing the
padded,upholstered rails above the doors. These are held on by sheet
metal screws from the rear side. To access the screws you have to peel
away the door seal rubber which usually breaks so it is best to combine
this job with the installation of new door seals.
Cheers, Patrick.
1965 Series I E-Type FHC.
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know >how to remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 >332-9302) hasstarted manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I >will keep
the list posted.Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: Tom Graham TGraham@internetmci.com
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 1996 21:32:12 -0500
Subject: More R-12 Stuff
- – [ From: Tom Graham * EMC.Ver #2.3 ] –
'Morning Chaps-
Got some more stuff re this, in particular the Pennzoil FRIGC FR-12
substitute. Pennzoil has a web site, http://www.pennzoil.com. In the new
products section, is a page of info on their FRIGC. Briefly it says that
FR-12 is an R-12 substitute and all that is required is that you change
some fittings which cost only about $10.
They have a toll free number 1-800-424-3907. I called it and asked about
where to buy FR-12 in southern CA, they said to call 1-800-458-4998. I did
and they said that FR-12 is not distributed via the chain stores, e.g. Trak,
, PEP Boys, etc but through independent mechanics. Also, it is available
only in 30 pound containers. I asked for a local, Anaheim, distributor and
they gave me “Ron’s Auto Parts” (714) 490-0805. I called them and they
said they sell FR-12, 30 lbs for $265. And that NO liscense or such is
required for purchase. End of story.
Cherio - Tom
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 22:52:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: 85’ XJS Ignition wiring
My question is, normally a coil gets it’s 12v source thru a ballast resistor
but I can’t find one and I thought I read somewhere Lucas coils don’t use
one. In Kirby’s book however, there is mention of one being present. So
if I’m not missing a wire, (there are still two empty lugs on the ignition coil,
which makes me think I might be) where is the 12v normally comming
from?
If there is a ballast, it’s a piece of resistor wire.
There is a seperate 12v (and tach out) wire set going to the coil. These
two wires are in the harness that comes around the back of the engine,
and feeds the two oil pressure units, and I believe the full throttle
switches.
in addition, the amplifier will have two wires to the coil, two to
the distributor, and two to the injection harness (bullet plugs). Plus
there are two more wires from the coil to the aux coil up in front
of the radiator.
This gives a total of six wires on the coil. I think I have all that
right. I just put heads on an 84 last week…
Another wiring question, although not related to ignition: There is a loose
wire around the vicinity of the compressor/cruise-control area that has a
round push on threaded terminal connector. Where does this go? I see no
It goes to the overheat switch in the back of the compressor. Often when
a new compressor is installed, the switch is not moved over to the new
compressor.
Thanks in advance,
Jim Marsden
P.S. Love the list! (even with it’s problems)
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
From: “Ross Hilton” pacrefrh@oznet02.ozemail.com.au
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 1996 19:10:32 +1110
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #200
Frans Hoekemeijer wrote:
I don’t think that Jaguars are now that much more
expensive in relation to other cars than in the 50’s and 60’s. Then the price of
a new Jaguar was about 3 to 4 times the price of a small car and
it is still like that. Also, not many people then could buy them new, and it is
still basically the same.
Agreed. We forget that Jaguars always were, and still are, rich
mens/womens playthings. Although its true that Lyons always made
certain that Jaguar cars were cheaper than the competition, it should
be remembered that the competition was incredibly expensive. What,
for instance, do you compare to an XK120? I would say a Ferrari,
though others may disagree. Same with a MKVII… a Bentley? I didn’t
see many ferrari’s and Bentleys around my home town when I was a kid.
Captains of industry were the Jaguar drivers in those days. The man
in the street owned a Ford Prefect or used the bus!
regards
Ross Hilton
From: Patrick Krejcik pkr@SLAC.Stanford.EDU
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 1996 17:56:12 -0700
Subject: Re: XKE Headliner
I was reluctant to reply while the list was haywire but I think its safe
to venture now.
The edge trim strips can be peeled back by first removing the
padded,upholstered rails above the doors. These are held on by sheet
metal screws from the rear side. To access the screws you have to peel
away the door seal rubber which usually breaks so it is best to combine
this job with the installation of new door seals.
Cheers, Patrick.
1965 Series I E-Type FHC.
I am about to swap the headliner on my 2+2. Does anyone know >how to remove the upholstered edge trim strips? By the way, BAS (360 >332-9302) hasstarted manufacturing coupe/2+2 sunvisors…I intend to order a set to
replace those miserable scraps of wool that dangle from my roof. I >will keep
the list posted.Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2
From: jorgen@tvnorge.no (Jorgen Scheel)
Date: Tue, 09 Jul 1996 15:15:34 +0100
Subject: Shock absorbers
Help!
I am looking for a supplier for KONI shocks. Preferably in Europe, but
California is OK to. They cost about �80 pounds in Norway, but they have to
be ordered. So I figyred I might as well do it myself. I dont have the
number for them but what I need is front and rear, and they are listed undre
special jagur/daimler as MkII shocks.
And help/prices/numbers to call (not 800-number…) would be appreciated…
1.5 x MK1 -59
jorgen@tvnorge.no
From: chatmans@ext.missouri.edu
Date: Tue, 09 Jul 96 08:31:08 cdt
Subject: Cruise Control 83 XJ6 S3
First, thanks to Tom Graham and Kirby Palm for their descriptions of
the system. My obvious problems were mechanical and have been replaced
or repaired: split bellows, broken supports, frayed cable, and stuck
solenoids. I now have functioning cruise control of a sort. When
cruise control is activated by the turn-signal column switch (50 mph),
the car increases speed by about 20 mph (70 mph) and then maintains
that increased speed (70 mph) very well. If interrupted and "reset"
with the console switch, it will return to the increased speed (70
mph). If re-activated by the turn-signal switch, it will increase
speed about 20 mph again (at least it appears to be headed to 90 mph
but there was too much traffic to go past 80 mph). Kirby Palm's book
describes adjustment of the ECU but mine is solid state. What's going
on and is there anything I can do to make the control more accurate? I
tried putting more pressure on the bellows cable by extending the
bellows before tightening but it seemed to have no effect. TIA
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 08:50:10 -0500
Subject: Bunged up list.
I think Patrick Krejcik is the one who screwed up the list. He stayed off
and all was well. He is back on and it is clobbered. Maybe you should
check out your server Pat.
There is also the posibility that someone is using an anonymous server.
Those things fuck up everything.
Jim
===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"
John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: Donald.Zbylut@gsa.gov
Date: Tue, 09 Jul 96 11:11:45 EST
Subject: jag
Would like to be on mail list. My name is Don Zbylut
From: ifinlay@vossnet.co.uk (Ian Finlay)
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 17:42:54 +0100
Subject: Anyone in Boston?
I’m working in Boston(ish) next week - any Jag lovers care to meet for a
drink and a chin-wag?
And I’m picking up my “new” (to me) MKII!
Bwahahahahahahaha!!! (chuckle(
B-]
Ian
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #205
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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 11 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 206
Jag breakers yard in CA?
Re: Bunged up list.
RE: More R-12 Stuff
Re: Anyone in Boston?
Denver get together
Re: Jag breakers yard in CA?
Re: SUNROOF
XK8 and XKE
Gasoline odor in interior of XJS HE
Monterey Historical Classic
Re: Gasoline odor in interior of XJS HE
Windshiel wiper motor for 85 XJS
420G - I’ve gone and done it !!
Re: Gasoline odor in interior of XJS HE
Read about the XJ13
XJ6 S3 Wheel/Tire Combinations
XJ6 "87 Fuel Tank Problem
E-Type brake bleed
Lead or Bondo
Type G
Cruise control
electrical gage-85 XJ-S
Re: Gasoline odor in interior of XJS HE
From: ifinlay@vossnet.co.uk (Ian Finlay)
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 17:44:12 +0100
Subject: Jag breakers yard in CA?
Anyone know the name/details of a breakers yard in the San Fransico bay
area that has
Jag parts? I vaguely remember seeing an ad in an old Hemmings, but can’t
find it now.
Ian
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Tue, 09 Jul 1996 16:22:21 +0000
Subject: Re: Bunged up list.
[ JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell) ]
| I think Patrick Krejcik is the one who screwed up the list. He stayed off
| and all was well. He is back on and it is clobbered. Maybe you should
| check out your server Pat.
Nope. Not Patricks fault. My service provider has been hard
at work sorting things out, after I dug out my very big stick
and showed it to them. No idea what caused the f**k-up, but
things should be back to normal now.
Nick, with a licence to walk
<<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>>
<<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>>
The JagWeb http://www.sn.no/~nick/jaguar.html <<<
From: Julio Loza julio@synerdyne.com
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 10:29:02 -0700
Subject: RE: More R-12 Stuff
And that NO liscense or such is
required for purchase. End of story.
Cherio - Tom
I called Pennzoil as well and talk to one of their reps regarding this =
new product. When I asked her about the licensing issue she said that =
you must have a license to purchase this new product. It is mandated by =
the EPA, according to her, for all automotive refrigerants. I just =
called Ron’s Auto ( the local place where they are selling this new =
refrigerant) and they said a license is required to purchase this new =
refrigerant.
By the way getting a license to purchase A/C refrigerant is a simple =
matter in most states. All you need to do is contact MACS at 1-(800) =
609-6227 and ask them what you need to do in your state. It usually =
only takes $20 and a short test they send you with a booklet regarding =
responsible use of the refrigerants. You don’t even have to know how to =
charge up your A/C system ( this type of technical questions aren’t part =
of the test). For more info related to refrigerants try =
http://www.dcc.edu/vettenet/acfaq.txt.
Julio Loza
From: lupienj@wal.hp.com (John Lupien)
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 96 15:10:16 EDT
Subject: Re: Anyone in Boston?
I’m working in Boston(ish) next week - any Jag lovers care to meet for a
drink and a chin-wag?
And I’m picking up my “new” (to me) MKII!
Bwahahahahahahaha!!! (chuckle(
Ian
Hi Ian,
Not actually in Boston proper, but I will be happy to buzz in and meet
another jag-lover. Let me know what dates and hotels, and I’ll get in
touch when you are here.
John R. Lupien
lupienj@wal.hp.com
From: jwh@dwrock.dw.lucent.com
Date: Tue, 09 Jul 96 14:00:00 PDT
Subject: Denver get together
If you have tried to send me a mail message to jwh@dw.att.com Monday or
Tuesday, I may not have gotten it. Please re-send to jwh@dw.lucent.com or
jhimes@attmail.com or call 303-538-2203 before 4:pm MST. With the breaking
up of AT&T into 3 companies, the servers are being divided up and it seems
as of yesterday sometime mail sent to my old server takes quite a long time
before it makes it to me, but fairly quickly via the new address. ( Sent
myself 2 messages, the one to jwh@dw.lucent.com took 20 minutes, the one to
jwh@dw.att.com has still has not arrived after 3 hours ) I promise, this is
the last note about getting together tonight.
So far I have
John Himes
Lawrence Buja
John Napoli
Merritt Smith
Lauren Pratt ( I think )
John Himes
88 XJ-S 95K Miles
jwh@dw.lucent.com
From: Jim Goring jgoring@FGS.com
Date: Tue, 09 Jul 1996 13:36:14 +0000
Subject: Re: Jag breakers yard in CA?
Ian Finlay wrote:
Anyone know the name/details of a breakers yard in the San Fransico bay
area that has
Jag parts? I vaguely remember seeing an ad in an old Hemmings, but can’t
find it now.Ian
yes… try “Jaguar Heaven” in stockton. they have lots of stuff and are reasonably
inexpensive
Jim Goring
Frank, Goring & Straja Architects jgoring@FGS.com
1144 65th Street Voice: (510) 595 9000
Oakland, CA 94608 Fax: (510) 595 9209
From: allporsche@cajunnet.com (Bart G. Denys)
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 16:49:20 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: SUNROOF
Hi guys!
Thanks to those of you that responded to my question on the sunroof not
working. After checking the motor and cables which worked fine, I discoverd
that the problem was in the rocker switch. I sprayed an electric contact
cleaner with a small needle into the crevices then followed with compressed
air. Presto! The roof works perfectly.
On another note, I removed the silver fender trim . Best offer can takes
them. (Retail $89)
Regards,
Stacy
From: mikes@bb.iu.net
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 17:30:44 +0000
Subject: XK8 and XKE
I just got back from a trip to England where I spotted my first XK8.
I was driving through Kenilworth just 5 or so miles from Coventry
when there it was waiting at a traffic light by the Virgin and Castle
pub. It was on trade plates so I imagine it was on some sort of test
run from the factory. Looked very nice…almost as good as my new
aquisition.
After some months of looking I bought myself a Jag. It’s a Series 3
XKE 2+2. It needs a little reasembly and a little bodywork but it was
a bargain (I hope). The PO rebuilt engines in his spare time and
seemed to be a somewhat of a perfectionist. Luckily he had found a
new bonnet and had fitted it only recently. The car has some minor
rust in the front and rear of the sills and around the wheel arches.
Can anyone recommend a source in the US for repair pannels? In
fact, can anyone recommend a source in general for parts for this
car? The people I spoke to had catalogs for the series 1 and 2 but
not the 3. I’d be interested in hearing recommendations or warnings
regarding any suppliers.
Thanks
Mike
From: Jim Brown brown@ns.net
Date: Tue, 09 Jul 1996 17:31:00 -0700
Subject: Gasoline odor in interior of XJS HE
As the second owner of a 1985 XJS HE ( 62K miles) I am discovering the many
confounding joys of Jaguar ownership. One of the many is the pronounced odor
of gasoline in the trunk and, to a lesser extent, the interior of the car.
I’ve done a cursory check of the hoses and fittings in the trunk. Nothing is
obvious although some of the hoses are discolored (darkened) slightly in
part but don’t appear to be damp. It makes me a little nervous to be
surrounded by the odor while driving. It is also very unpleasant. Anyone
have some ideas that I might try to remedy this perplexing problem?
By the way, the list is great.
Jim Brown
'85 XJS HE
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 22:48:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Monterey Historical Classic
Hi All!
I’m back for the moment (sort of) – probably leave again next week for a
week or two. I’m planning to drive my (still in pieces) E to Monterey in
August for the Historical Classic races (to see them, not to race) –
curious if any of you plan to attend, also if anyone knows if there will be
a Jag corral this year and who to contact to buy passes.
Thanks!
Hunt
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 10 Jul 96 16:21:35
Subject: Re: Gasoline odor in interior of XJS HE
To Jim Brown:
If your XJS is anything like my XJC, you’ll find more hoses and pipes behind
the trim in the boot, Jim. However, in my experience, the strongest and most
dangerous source of petrol smells is the plumbing on top of the engine. It’s
all pressurised, and as the rubber settles, the hose clamps no longer exert so
much pressure, and if you just push one of the injector rails, say, a little
during a spark plug change, that can be enough to break the seal and start a
leak. It’s easily fixed by tightening up the screw clamps, but you are right to
be vigilant as even a small engine fire can be expensive and easily grows into
a big one.
It can do absolutely no harm to go right through the fuel system and tighten up
all the screw clamps. And do get a Maintenance Operations Manual from your
local Jag parts dealer; it’s not the greatest manual in the world, but it’s
indispensible for showing you where all the bits are.
-
- Jan
From: autotest@ix.netcom.com (Test Engineering Consultants)
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 23:22:24 -0700
Subject: Windshiel wiper motor for 85 XJS
Mine is dead, new one is expensive, any suggestions on a place to
repair, preferably in SF, Bay Area, are appreciated.
Please reply directly.
Thanks, Ilya Klebaner.
From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 96 03:30:25 EDT
Subject: 420G - I’ve gone and done it !!
From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
*** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FE21
*** INTERNET - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM *** IBMMAIL - AUIBMSPM ****
Subject: 420G - I’ve gone and done it !!
Well jag-lovers, after many many months of searching, I’ve finally
found a 420G to own and love.
It has had over $4,000 spent on engine rebuild, and has a completely
new interior which just blew me away. Every inch looks brand new. It’s
the best trim job I’ve seen. must have cost $6000 or more. Even the boot
has been made to look like new. Car has a fully rebuilt rear end,
diff,shocks,bushes etc all near new.
Downside is that it has been hit real hard on the front right. Upside
is that the guy had already bought a new front guard and all the other
bits to have it fixed. He had some insurance quotes of $10,000 to fix
it, but I’m sure I’ll get out of it for $3,000 or so, and do the
re-painting of the damaged areas myself. The engine and gearbox still run
great, although the mountings look to be broken. Still drives ok, and so
shouldn’t be too much of a drama to fix it. Everything in the engine bay
still works, so hopefully not too many mechanical parts needed.
Whole thing cost me $3,000…even if the body work is worst than I
thought, hell I’ll get one with a decent body and re-locate my interior
and mechanicals onto it…just the seats and door trims would normally
cost $3,000 !!
Can any experienced owners give me some advice on what to look out for
with a front fender hit on these cars ? They look like they are built
like a tank, but maybe the doors and other panels may have been buckled
a bit or put out of line.
Also, my XJ6 is about to have it’s old 5 litre lump removed in favour
of a late model 350 corvette TPI motor with all the accessories. (no
lump comments please…at least I now own one of each…man, how that
350 corvette engine can be called a lump is beyond me…the performance
and economy is awesome when you compare it to the 4.2…please, no lump
debate)
I will have the jag condenser, air-con compressor,fans, receiver dryer
and radiator left over when I upgrade my lump. Has anybody had any
experience fitting the XJ6 air-con parts into the engine bay of a
mark X or 420 G ? Are there some after market contraptions that I can
buy to put in the cabin, that can link up with the compressor in the
engine bay ? I don’t need to fancy climate control stuff. I’ll keep the
heater separate…any advice from owners or engineers who may be able
to help me would be immensely appreciated.
Thanks all…and no, I would never dream of lumping the 420G…that
would be the greatest sacrilege of all…I’m naming her Raquel,
as she has curves to die for…hopefully my wife will start talking
to me again soon…corvette motor…420g…raquel… sigh…
REGARDS…Shane
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 1996 12:57:50 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: Gasoline odor in interior of XJS HE
As the second owner of a 1985 XJS HE ( 62K miles) I am discovering the many
confounding joys of Jaguar ownership. One of the many is the pronounced odor
of gasoline in the trunk and, to a lesser extent, the interior of the car.
I’ve done a cursory check of the hoses and fittings in the trunk. Nothing is
obvious although some of the hoses are discolored (darkened) slightly in
part but don’t appear to be damp. It makes me a little nervous to be
surrounded by the odor while driving. It is also very unpleasant. Anyone
have some ideas that I might try to remedy this perplexing problem?
I a the similar problem on my '88 XJ-S. It was a leak in the fuel
tank itself, so fuel soaked into the pad unter the tank. From there
it found a tiny hole into the cabin leaking into the foam of the rear seat.
I fixed the hole in the tank myself. If you ever have the tank out check
for a rivet on the right hand side. I think there has been a recall
for this. I’ve put some huge washer around the rivet to avoid that it
creates a hole in the tank.
Of course, I have replaced every single piece of foam/carpet which
was in contact with fuel.
-
- Matthias
From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 1996 13:07:21 +0200
Subject: Read about the XJ13
Just in case there are some of you that didn’t catch the article in
Thoroughbred and Classic Car about the XJ13, it has been reproduced
on the web, courtesy of SpecialCar.com:
http://www.SpecialCar.com/TCC/1996/05/xj13/index.html
Nick
Nick Johannessen // nick@sn.no // http://www.sn.no/~nick/
Adminstrator of the JagWeb and the Jag-lovers mailing-list
Check out the North Cape Challenge 1996 http://www.sn.no/~moydalus/
From: chatmans@ext.missouri.edu
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 96 09:07:49 cdt
Subject: XJ6 S3 Wheel/Tire Combinations
Hi.
I'm looking for a comprehensive S3 list and, as I can't find one,
would be happy to compile such. Please send to my address any
successful variation on the 15x6 wheel with 205 70 15 tires (or tyres
if you prefer) accomplished without suspension or frontend
modifications. If you have a wider wheel, please be sure to make note
of the fact. TIA.
Steve Chatman, Columbia, MO
84 XJ6 S3
From: Gary Bradford gbradford@daisy.ashcc.uky.edu
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 1996 10:50:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: XJ6 "87 Fuel Tank Problem
I own a 1987 XJ6. The right fuel tank pumps into the left fuel tank. If
the left fuel tank in full, excess fuel is pumped until it runs out of the
charcoal cannister. I have replaced both fuel/air return valves in the fuel
tank plumbing system. Any help or suggestions for remedying the problem
would be greatly appreciated.
From: rrichardson@eurekanet.com (Robert J. Richardson)
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 1996 15:43:13 -0500
Subject: E-Type brake bleed
A leak in the flex line area forthe rear brakes drained all the fluid from
the middle brake fluid cannister on my Series I E-Type FHC. The line, if it
is defective, must be replaced in order to bleed the brake system. The big
question is can this flexible brake line be checked and/or replaced without
dropping the rear suspension unit? I’m hoping to hear that the suspension
won’t have to be removed to have access to the flex line.
From: “Daniel S. Hayes” danh@Intelus.Com
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 1996 16:33:29 -0400
Subject: Lead or Bondo
This post is to thank those who responded to my questions about body work:
lead or bondo. I would like to thank John Shuck, Ryan Border, K. Boetzer,
Mike Cogswell, Kenny Gilson, and Steve A. Forgive me if I forgot someone.
Though one of you leads, I found a real Jaguar body specialist near the
Washington D.C. metro area:
Andy at Automotive Metal Performance
11018 Kemps Mill Rd.
Williams Port, MD 21795 (by Hagerstown)
301-223-5017
REAL ETYPE BODY SPECIALIST!! He even has his own E-Type jig!!!
Thanx,
Daniel S. Hayes
2200 Wilson Blvd., #102-226
Arlington, VA 22201
danh@intelus.com 64 3.8 Series I E-Type Coupe
301-990-6363x263 301-330-6707 Fax
July 10, 1996
4:32 pm
From: justinb@Okway.okstate.edu (Justin Beightol)
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 1996 16:22:58 -0500
Subject: Type G
Guys,
Fill me in here. What is Type G transmission fluid? Can I use Type
F? If not, clue me in to where I can get type G.
Thanks,
Justin
'87 XJ-6
PS. I hope I didn't miss something very obvious.
From: Tom Graham TGraham@internetmci.com
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 1996 20:31:56 -0500
Subject: Cruise control
- – [ From: Tom Graham * EMC.Ver #2.3 ] –
'Morning Chaps-
Chatmans@ext.missouri.edu wrote re his 83 XJ6 cruise control that increases
from the selected speed.
First, the speed will continue to increase as long as you hold in the set
button. Maybe the set button is sticking “on” after you let go of it???
The way to get at and see the set button is to remove the little label on
the front of the stalk. It is made of very thin aluminum and is glued on.
To remove it, heat gently with a hair dryer which will soften the glue and
then you can pull off the label.
Second quoting from the Jag cruise control repair section provided to me by
Loren Lingren a year ago, it says-
“The vehicle should cruise at +/- 1 mph of the speed selected. If not,
remove the rubber grommet from the side of the Controller and adjust the
set speed potentiometer with a small screwdriver. Clockwise to increase.
Counter-clockwise to decrease the cruise speed. Note: Potentiometer
deleted from late vehicles.”
Wonderful!!! And it does not say what to do if it is a “late vehicle”!!!
Cherio - Tom
From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
Date: Sat, 06 Jul 1996 20:37:30 -0700
Subject: electrical gage-85 XJ-S
The battery gage in my 85 XJ-S is “non-responsive” on its own. When I turn
on the car the gage needle just stays on the bottom. I have found that by
giving the carefully placed knock on the exterior trim I can get the gage to
move and register. However, it never reaches the mid-point of the gage and
stops just below the mid-point line. As soon as I turn the car off and
re-start it the gage does not respond unless I repeat the knocking
procedure. I have no other problems and the electrical seems to be running
just fine. The gage is an annoyance and I would like to find a way to
straighten the problem up. Any suggestions??? Thanks,
Rob W-M
85 XJ-S
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 01:31:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Gasoline odor in interior of XJS HE
I believe that there is vapor recovery plumbing located up high in the
trunk on both sides – above the filler neck, and on the other side as
well. These could be the cause of the odor.
On Tue, 9 Jul 1996, Jim Brown wrote:
As the second owner of a 1985 XJS HE ( 62K miles) I am discovering the many
confounding joys of Jaguar ownership. One of the many is the pronounced odor
of gasoline in the trunk and, to a lesser extent, the interior of the car.
I’ve done a cursory check of the hoses and fittings in the trunk. Nothing is
obvious although some of the hoses are discolored (darkened) slightly in
part but don’t appear to be damp. It makes me a little nervous to be
surrounded by the odor while driving. It is also very unpleasant. Anyone
have some ideas that I might try to remedy this perplexing problem?By the way, the list is great.
Jim Brown
'85 XJS HE
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #206
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Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 05:12:17 +0200 (MET DST)
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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 12 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 207
Re: Gasoline odor in interior of XJS HE
Denver After Action Report
Tiny little u-joints
Jag: XK engine clutches query
RE: Tiny little u-joints
RE: E-Type brake bleed
Re: Read XJ13, comments
Re: Anyone in Boston?
Hello and my first tech problem
Maybe a 1970 XJ6
Monterey Historic
87 VDP Climate Control
British Car Weekend
MKII 3.8: First couple of days report!
re: electrical gage-85 XJ-S
XJ suspension mods
Re: electrical gage-85 XJ-S
Re: Gasoline odor in interior of XJS HE
re: electrical gage-85 XJ-S
1987 XJ-S kickdown circuit failure
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 01:37:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Gasoline odor in interior of XJS HE
I have found that the stainless clamps specifically intended for high
pressure applications (they are sold as ‘fuel injection hose clamps’)
should be used. They seal better, don’t loosen, and even improve the
underhood appearance. It is common for the conventional type of clamp to
be substituted by mechanics and owners over time. The high pressure
clamps are moderately more expensive but worth it.
On 10 Jul 1996, Jan Wikstroem wrote:
To Jim Brown:
If your XJS is anything like my XJC, you’ll find more hoses and pipes behind
the trim in the boot, Jim. However, in my experience, the strongest and most
dangerous source of petrol smells is the plumbing on top of the engine. It’s
all pressurised, and as the rubber settles, the hose clamps no longer exert so
much pressure, and if you just push one of the injector rails, say, a little
during a spark plug change, that can be enough to break the seal and start a
leak. It’s easily fixed by tightening up the screw clamps, but you are right to
be vigilant as even a small engine fire can be expensive and easily grows into
a big one.It can do absolutely no harm to go right through the fuel system and tighten up
all the screw clamps. And do get a Maintenance Operations Manual from your
local Jag parts dealer; it’s not the greatest manual in the world, but it’s
indispensible for showing you where all the bits are.
- Jan
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 02:05:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Denver After Action Report
I had the pleasure of meeting with some of our Denver jag-lovers the
other night during a business trip. The venue – a British pub – and the
company were great. I enjoyed the conversation and the opportunity to put
faces with the names.
It was a treat seeing the cars, too. The Buja’s Daimler and John Himes’
XJ-S are very impressive.
(None of us seemed to be psychopaths, either.)
Thanks, folks, for taking the time to get together, and especially to
John for pulling it all together. I’m glad I had the
chance to meet you all and I hope to see you again soon.
Regards,
John
From: M2747@aol.com
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 03:10:51 -0400
Subject: Tiny little u-joints
Jag Lover List,
I have a ‘69 E-Type OTS with a clicking in the steering colum. I
have narrowed it down to the little u-joint right above your toes in the
colum. There are two of these joints in the colum, one close to the rack,
and the one giving me the problem. I’ve been told that they are different,
yet look identical, and the one I need isn’t available anywhere. Any help
would be appreciated, are they the same? and if not where can I get the upper
u-joint? P.S. How do you spell colum, it just doesn’ look right…
Thanks in advance!
Mark Meredith
M2747@aol.com
From: ejt@wg.icl.co.uk (Ted Trim)
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 96 08:42:49 BST
Subject: Jag: XK engine clutches query
Jag-lovers,
Re clutches fitted to 60s Jaguars…
Can the “coil spring” type clutch cover be replaced by the corresponding
diaphram cover fitted to later cars? (There are two sizes of each in my
parts lists). What else would have to be changed?
Thanks,
Ted
From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 11:16 +0200
Subject: RE: Tiny little u-joints
You could order them from:
F.B.Components,
Oxford, U.K.
fax: +44 1865 250065
There are two the same U/J’s in the steering column of the series 1 and 2=20
E-types.
Their order n=B0 from F.B. Components is: S095 and the price =A315.10 each,=20=
transport extra.
Frans.
I have a '69 E-Type OTS with a clicking in the steering colum.=20
I
have narrowed it down to the little u-joint right above your toes in the
colum. There are two of these joints in the colum, one close to the rack,
and the one giving me the problem. I’ve been told that they are=20
different,
yet look identical, and the one I need isn’t available anywhere. Any help
would be appreciated, are they the same? and if not where can I get the=20
upper
u-joint? P.S. How do you spell colum, it just doesn’ look right…
Thanks in advance!
Mark Meredith
M2747@aol.com=20
From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 11:26 +0200
Subject: RE: E-Type brake bleed
Well, as normally the rear suspension is installed and then hooked up to the=20=
brakes, it followes that you can change the flexible brake pipe without=20
problems. It goes to a T-piece that is fixed on the lower lip of the=20
subframe. You will have to start undoing the union on the brakeline to the=20
front first to be able to turn the flexible unscrewing it from the T-oiece=20
on the subframe. The worst part of it is bleeding the brakes!
Frans.
A leak in the flex line area forthe rear brakes drained all the fluid from
the middle brake fluid cannister on my Series I E-Type FHC. The line, if=20
it
is defective, must be replaced in order to bleed the brake system. The big
question is can this flexible brake line be checked and/or replaced=20
without
dropping the rear suspension unit? I’m hoping to hear that the suspension
won’t have to be removed to have access to the flex line.=20
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson)
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 02:51:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Read XJ13, comments
You wrote:
Just in case there are some of you that didn’t catch the article in
Thoroughbred and Classic Car about the XJ13,
Two points…
- the car has a 5 speed ZF 25/1 gearbox not a 6 speed.
- the crash wasmore than likely due to the incorrect setting of the
front suspension and in particular the rack. As the car lifted at
speed the front wheels began to toe in… the rear wheel disintegrated
on impact with the wall …
Having replicated the original we noticed this aspect when we built our
car and changed the setting accordingly…
all the best
tony
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
From: ifinlay@vossnet.co.uk (Ian Finlay)
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 09:35:28 +0100
Subject: Re: Anyone in Boston?
I’ll be in the Hilton at Dedham Place from next Monday evening.
Ian
On Jul 09, 1996 15:10:16, ‘lupienj@wal.hp.com (John Lupien)’ wrote:
I’m working in Boston(ish) next week - any Jag lovers care to meet for a
drink and a chin-wag?
And I’m picking up my “new” (to me) MKII!
Bwahahahahahahaha!!! (chuckle(
IanHi Ian,
Not actually in Boston proper, but I will be happy to buzz in and meet
another jag-lover. Let me know what dates and hotels, and I’ll get in
touch when you are here.–
John R. Lupien
lupienj@wal.hp.com
From: Cosmo simond@informix.com
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 13:45:12 +0100
Subject: Hello and my first tech problem
Hi,
Two months ago I finaly bought the car I had been wanting for 10
years: A 1983, XJ6 Series III, dark blue with biscuit interior.
As I had expected, a few nigling problems need sorting so has anyone
had any experience of the following:
o Intermittent speedometer.
On my journey to/from work the speedo cuts out after 20-25 miles.
At the start of the next journey it will start working again. It
is the electrical type and I have checked the connections at the
speedo and the sender unit. It has only started happening now the
weather is getting hotter, but that may just be my fertile
imagination. I’m thinking (hoping) it is the sender unit anyone
have an idea which is more likely (or costly)?
o Rear window demister.
Only two elements still work which make it not very effective.
The wires are not embedded in the glass and I wondered if anyone
had this problem and been able to repair it (wire bridges,
conductive paint)?
o Diavia air conditioning.
This was fitted by the dealer at time of purchase and doesn’t
appear to work anymore. Anyone have experience of this type of
air-con or know what to look for in general when it just doesn’t
seem to produce air colder than standard vents.
Thanks in advance,
Cosmo
From: henning@fp.com (Eric Henning)
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 09:03:10 -0400
Subject: Maybe a 1970 XJ6
Greeting all,
well I finally got a chance to look at the 1970 XJ6 for sale about
an hour and a half away. It’s owned by a real estate guy who lives on a
farm and kept it in the barn. Why do so many farms have Jags?
He has had the car since 40k miles. It now has 110k miles. He used it
as a daily driver up to 2 months ago. He used to sell Jags and Bentley’s.
He also has a 39 Daimler, 55 Chevy, an El Camino with 400,000 miles and just
but a new Continental. (he’s currently looking for an XKE 2+2). So much
for his personal history.
The car is silver with black original interior. Leather is all good, no
rips, cracks, but needs to be re-dyed. Car has had sills, floorpans, trunk
re-done before a very good paint job. New motor mounts, says every seal has
been replaced
(car still leaks oil, uses/leaks 1 qrt. every 400 miles), exhaust done 2 yrs.
ago, newer tires, new battery. Chrome all good except rear bumper where
side mounts are, rusted through but still attached. All electrrics seem to
work except rear defroster, one rear electric window works slow. Undercarriage
looks good. Stake down kit on one side only (says owner). Parking brake
in-operative. Car idles extremely fast (20k) but drops to 5k in gear.
Will not kick down in idle.
Car is currently not registered so could only drive around his farm.
Temperature gauge was at the very high normal end. Could be due to high
idle? and low driving speed?
All in all it seems like a very solid car. Engine does run smooth but again
due to high idle when turning car off it chatters, wheezes then chunks,
then dies.
So what’s the point? I’m scared. I am more partial to Series III XJ6’s
but this seems too good to pass (he’s only asking $2,000 USD) I can
hear those of you in other countries cursing me outright.
Because of the distance, unfamilar area, isolation, not registered car, it
will be tough to have a qualified mechanic look the car over. I did
spend my high school and college summers working as a “mechanic”
in my friends uncle’s gas/garage station.
Please encouragement, warnings, quit your whinings would be appreciated.
If I buy this it proable means I’ll need to get rid of my vgc Fiat Spider
(very fun, lots of comments), or my old trustworthy not afraid to take
anywhere VW with 140k miles.
Thanks.
Eric
henning@fp.com
From: bill_clark@ccmail.rsco.com
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 96 06:35:47 PST
Subject: Monterey Historic
Yes there is a JAG corral... there is a discounted ticket also... $25
down from $30, plus a $1 to cover mailing, but availability is
limited.
I sent my $'s to
George Barry,
611 South 15th Street
San Jose CA 95112-2368
(408) 280-5678 Home
(408) 735-3053 Office
(408) 735-4101 Fax
George is Treasurer of the local JAG club.
From: “Owens, Adam J.” uscuc8hc@ibmmail.com
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 10:29:16 EDT
Subject: 87 VDP Climate Control
Date: 1996-07-11 10:23
Priority:
Greetings all,
Posting this question for my cousin who recently aquired a 1987 Vanden
Plas Series III. The A/C system does not come on properly. When set for
cooling, the flappers do not open and hot air continues to blow through the
console vents and the side vents on the facia but not the large center vent.
Repeated switching of the blower speed switch eventually kicked on the
system and we started getting slightly cooled air out of all the vents
including the center. A local mechanic he uses checked the A/C system and
found it virtually empty - He then put in a pound or so of freon to check
for leaks and found none, he then evacuated the system until the reason for
it being empty could be found. The recent DPO had no idea and had not had
the system worked on. The compressor, thermal fuse etc seem to be fine - any
ideas on what could be keeping the system from switching to cool mode from
heating? Perhaps the cabin temp sensor?
TIA
A.J. Owens
From: Joseph Reilly reilly@husc.HARVARD.EDU
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 11:51:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: British Car Weekend
Just a reminder to anyone in the New England area that this weekend is
British Car Weekend at the Museum of Transportation in Brookline MA.
It goes from 10-2 on Saturday and Sunday. If “Penny” starts I’ll be
there on Sunday.
Joe
SII XJ6L
From: ifinlay@vossnet.co.uk (Ian Finlay)
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 17:04:15 +0100
Subject: MKII 3.8: First couple of days report!
Well, I got my MKII the other night, and bid a tearful (sniffy, at least)
farewell to my '91 Porsche 944 turbo. Especially the aircon and reclining
seats. The dealer (nice chap called Simon, from Barnsbury Classics in
London) showed me the controls, then remembered I’d mentioned the
4 other old vehicles I have and gave me a workshop manual!
Off went my fiancee (Donna) and I in the Jag. 100 yards of nervous
driving out of the small yard (“will it get through that gap on your
side?”,
“I don’t know - where’s the corner?”), one left turn, one set of traffic
lights and we’re off! Then the grin … and I haven’t stopped grinning
since! It’s so smooooth and quiet at 85 …
Got home, and Lucas, prince of darkness, sneaked up. I went out to
the car later - just to get some paperwork, you understand - and just
had to play with the switches to find out what worked. Or didn’t. Sum
total:
One headlamp, interior lights, some dash lights, cigar lighter socket
(I don’t smoke, but have to charge the 'phone), map light, headlamp
flasher and the horn (hooter).
Open up the dash (easy this bit) to find no map light and some loose
wires. Find more loose wires, but these are live!
Anyway, to avoid boring anyone I got a new sealed beam and some
insulating tape! Simon can fix the rest, as they mostly worked
prior to the negative earth conversion. He’s fitting seatbelts next week,
original mounts, new webbing, so he can do the rest while I’m travelling.
If you’re interested in this stuff, please email and I’ll keep going every
now and again. Otherwise, sorry and I’ll shut up now. I just can’t stop
talking about it, so why should you lot escape!
Cheers,
Ian
'56 Ford F100
'57 Plymouth Belvedere
'64 Pontiac Parisienne convertible
'56 Ford Consul (for sale)
and now…
'60 MKII Jag 3.8!!!
From: david_gruber@fmc.com (DAVID GRUBER)
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 10:10:11 -0500
Subject: re: electrical gage-85 XJ-S
<<I have found that by giving the carefully placed knock on the exterior
<<trim I can get the gage to move and register.
I go through the same ritual when I start up my '87 XJ6 of rapping on the fuel
gauge and volt meter. Ever notice that the speedometer needle moves when you
knock on one of the other gauges?
I believe this was a design feature, dubbed “Reading on Demand”, that was
implemented by Jaguar to save wear-and-tear of the gauges caused by giving
constant readings. My model has an additional feature (clearly intended for
those who prefer constant readings) - it idles so roughly (despite all attempts
to smooth the idle), that knocking on the gauges is no longer necessary - they
are in a constant state of vibration.
I suppose you could replace the gauge or just chalk it up to the character of
the beast. First-time passengers look on quizically when I start the car, then
wake up all the gauges.
Regards,
Dave
'87 XJ6-III
From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 10:54:27 +1000 (EST)
Subject: XJ suspension mods
Hi everyone,
it’s been a while since I had time to stir the Jag-lovers’ hornet’s nest.
Last night I attended a local Jag XJ register meeting to discuss a proposed
XJ club racing class based around near mechanically standard SI and SII
4.2 sedans. I was more interested in general modifications which would
improve the handling of my SII Daimler 4.2 for ‘enthusiastic’ road use.
Eventually I would be interested in finding partners to help build a
cheap XJ race car to compete in the competition here in Victoria, Australia.
The class specifies twin carb 4.2 engines with standard manifolds
and BW 65 or 66 auto. The aim is to be able to build the car for
$5 - $10K AUD.
Due to the modifications which I have already done to my car, it falls
outside the rules. I’m not sure if I would be game enough to take it
onto the track competitively in the first place nor would I want to
live without interior trim and the like which would be removed to
reduce weight.
Here are some of the recommended suspension mods. I’m interested in
hearing any comments since most of the suggestions are new to me. The
speaker on the night was an experienced Jaguar mechanic and racer.
Front suspension:
Replace the rubber ‘eye’ bush that supports the front of the subframe
with a solid aluminium unit, solely relying on the rubber V blocks for
compliance.
Replace the upper inner wishbone bushes with harder Nolathane (polyurethane)
units but leave the lower inners rubber.
Replace front springs with stiffer units (up to 100% stiffer for racing)
and replace shock absorbers with adjustable ‘AVO’ units.
Rear suspension:
Turn front trailing arm bushes 90 degrees to stiffen them in the fore/aft
direction.
Stiffer springa and shocks as per front suspension.
Other suggested modifications which are outside the current rules:
Replace rear disk rotors with ventilated units.
Increase front roll bar diameter and add (XJS) rear bar.
Any ideas appreciated.
regards,
Robert
Robert Dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 12 Jul 96 13:08:48
Subject: Re: electrical gage-85 XJ-S
You have a Lucasoid, Rob (ie., bad contact). It could be merely the spade
connectors on the back on the gauge, as the Lucas ones get tired with time.
Tightening them up with a pair of pliers works just fine. More likely, it’s
inside the instrument, in which case you should take it apart and fiddle with
whatever looks like a bad contact or semi-broken wire - unless you’re not big
on electrical tinkering, in which case buying another gauge is the recommended
course…
-
- Jan
77 XJ12C
78 XJ12L
85 #@$%^& Isuzu table-top
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 12 Jul 96 13:11:48
Subject: Re: Gasoline odor in interior of XJS HE
Jon Napoli :
I have found that the stainless clamps specifically intended for high
pressure applications (they are sold as ‘fuel injection hose clamps’)
should be used.
Couldn’t agree more, John. The extra strength of the stainless steel lets you
tighten them significantly more without damage.
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 12 Jul 96 13:56:16
Subject: re: electrical gage-85 XJ-S
David Gruber :
I go through the same ritual when I start up my '87 XJ6 of rapping on the fuel
gauge and volt meter.
As indeed do I with the rev counter in my '77 XJ12C. Unfortunately, my pleasure
is slightly marred because travelling over the first couple of bumps will have
the same effect. I am always reminded of that scene in “Ladykillers” where
Margaret Rutherford goes to fill her tea kettle and bangs on the water pipe to
release the water with much gurgling - using a cut-down croquet mallet hanging
on the wall next to the pipe, obviously dedicated to this purpose.
Forgive me, British members, but this represents to me an essential and most
endearing part of British culture, which it behooves me as a resident of the
former Empire to preserve. I will not repair this rev counter, nor would I
dream of owning one of those stolid, boring Teutonic products that require
neither tapping nor tinkering and leave no stains on the driveway to mark their
territory…
-
- Jan
From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 1996 23:15:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: 1987 XJ-S kickdown circuit failure
Recently my kickdown circuit stopped working. I noticed one of the
terminals had broken off the switch so I replaced the switch with a new
one. Still no kickdown. Checked the voltage across the two green
wires that connect to it: 12 volts. Checked that the switch indeed
activates by depressing the accelerator pedal fully. Checked that
the switch upon actuation activates 12 volts at the high side of the
switch. The fuse is good. The cruise control circuit (which seems
to be tied into this through the inhibit switch) works fine. What
do I check next? I really miss having kickdown.
Thomas E. ALberts
1987 XJ-S
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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 12 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 208
XJ air leaks
Re: XJ suspension mods
British Race Festival—Zandvoort, Holland 31 aug. - 1 Sept.
Re: 1987 XJ-S kickdown circuit failure
Re: XJ suspension mods
Jaguar World
RE: 87 VDP Climate Control
Driveway stains (wes: Re[2]: electrical gage-85 XJ-S)
Curta calculator
1987 XJ-S leather treatment
Lawrence Goes Racing in a Jag MkII.
XJ6 Series 3 - Tire Sizes
Any Jag-lovers near Groeningen?
Re: Jag breakers yard in CA?
Re: Lawrence Goes Racing in a Jag MkII.
From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 13:15:22 +1000 (EST)
Subject: XJ air leaks
Fellow Jag-lovers,
With the cold weather we have been having of late, I have noticed that
air is getting into the cabin somewhere under the dash. This air is
separate to the fresh air vents in the outer side of the footwells and
is obviously unheated. The problem is only noticable when cruising at
mid to high speeds.
I know that the seal around the (manual) gear stick console doesn’t seal
very well, but I suspect that the air may be coming from further forward.
Has anyone encountered this problem before?
regards,
Robert
'74 Daimler Sov SII
Robert Dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 12 Jul 96 14:21:28
Subject: Re: XJ suspension mods
Hi, Robert,
Those mods sound familiar. I’ll just comment that
my upper inner A-arm bushes, which are standard XJ12 S2 wear, are complex
two-layer floating metal bushes, presumably lubricated for life and hideously
expensive.
I’ve found careful wheel alignment to Jag manual specs (not the typical tyre
shop specs) productive of greatly improved handling
Ditto 15 x 7 alloy rims (“Stealth” pattern @$A250) with 235-60 tyres
GT Jaguar of Perry Village, Ohio, and SCCA championship fame, has a suspension
conversion kit that keeps camber at -3/4 deg under hard cornering, which they
regard as optimum.
I’ve heard positive comments about bringing the front ends of the rear
suspension track rods inboard to the line of the inner wishbone pivots on
racing E-types.
It makes great sense to put a torque stay between the bottom plate of the rear
suspension sub-frame and the body, which is something I’ve put on my “Must Do
Real Soon” list…
-
- Jan
From: “Martin Robert Fooks, WWIS” mfooks@postiss.netherlands.ncr.com
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 96 09:32:00 PDT
Subject: British Race Festival—Zandvoort, Holland 31 aug. - 1 Sept.
Hi all,
There is a British race weekend involving MG’s, Triumphs, Jaguars and Aston
Martins, which will be held at the Zandvoort Circuit here in Holland at the
end of August.
I know that the prices start from 15 Guilders, and am currently finding out
full information from the circuit.
If anyone in the area would like the information passed to them, please let
me know.
Martin
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 12 Jul 96 15:39:20
Subject: Re: 1987 XJ-S kickdown circuit failure
If yours is a GM400 slushbox, Thomas, it’ll have a kickdown solenoid near the
back end of the box; you can get at the spade connector from underneath. Hook
up a continuity tester or just any 12V light bulb and repeat your switch test.
If it lights up, the solenoid is suspect; if it doesn’t, there’s a break in the
wiring. Sorry, I can’t comment on the cruise control - no such modern
fripperies on my cars…
-
- Jan
God is an atheist - who would He worship?
From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 15:24:40 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ suspension mods
Jan writes,
Those mods sound familiar. I’ll just comment that
my upper inner A-arm bushes, which are standard XJ12 S2 wear, are complex
two-layer floating metal bushes, presumably lubricated for life and hideously
expensive.
From memory, the upper inner A arm bushes on my '74 were conventional rubber
between the inner and outer steel cylinders. Are they different on an XJ12?
…
I’ve heard positive comments about bringing the front ends of the rear
suspension track rods inboard to the line of the inner wishbone pivots on
racing E-types.
I checked out this option last night while inspecting an XJ on a hoist. It
looks as though the exhaust system would get in the way of any attempts to
move this pivot point inboard.
It makes great sense to put a torque stay between the bottom plate of the rear
suspension sub-frame and the body, which is something I’ve put on my “Must Do
Real Soon” list…
Last night, someone asked about going one step further and welding the rear
subframe to the chassis.
Since the lower wishbone is rigidly attached to the subframe except around
the axis of the pivot, there has to be some compliance in the subframe mount
due to the arc that the trailing arm follows. A simple torque stay to the
chassis may restrict this movement in the subframe and cause the suspension
to bind.
I noticed on an XJS that there is a bracket between the rear/rear shock
absorber lower mount and the outer wishbone pivot. What is the function of
this bracket (a tie down point perhaps??) and should my SII have them??
regards,
Robert
Robert Dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **
From: “Alastair Lauener” a.lauener@central.napier.ac.uk
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 96 09:11:15 gmt
Subject: Jaguar World
I received my copy of Jaguar World from the paperboy this morning
and lo and behold, our very own John Elmgreen has written an
excellent article about our Jag-lovers list and Nick’s Website in
particular, with reference to the other Jag-interest sites around
as well. He mentions many of the discussions that have been around
the group occasionally (Chevy lumps etc), also the history of the
mail group originating in Australia.
Nick is called a legend amongst computer literate Jaguar lovers,
which I believe is true.
I won’t go into more detail, as many of you will be reading the
article in time.
Hope Nick’s list server can take all the extra traffic from
readers of the magazine who now come and get connected up.
Well done John, a great article.
- Alastair Lauener Work Phone +44 131 455 2458 *
- Chief Technician Fax +44 131 455 2267 *
- Department of Building & Surveying Home Phone +44 1577 864242 *
- Napier University, Edinburgh EH10 5DT a.lauener@central.napier.ac.uk *
- 1964 3.4 S-Type story at http://www.sn.no/home/nick/alas.html *
From: Graham Watson grahamw@microsoft.com
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 02:02:59 -0700
Subject: RE: 87 VDP Climate Control
If you take it to your local Jag dealer, he should have a test rig he
can plug in and work out exactly which bits don’t work. Cost me ?60, but
at least I now know exactly which bits need replacing. With the cost of
A/C components on Jags, one mistakenly replaced bit will cost you far
more …
From: Owens, Adam J.[SMTP:uscuc8hc@ibmmail.com]
Sent: 11 July 1996 15:29
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: 87 VDP Climate ControlDate: 1996-07-11 10:23
Priority:
Greetings all,
Posting this question for my cousin who recently aquired a 1987 Vanden
Plas Series III. The A/C system does not come on properly. When set for
cooling, the flappers do not open and hot air continues to blow through the
console vents and the side vents on the facia but not the large center vent.
Repeated switching of the blower speed switch eventually kicked on the
system and we started getting slightly cooled air out of all the vents
including the center. A local mechanic he uses checked the A/C system and
found it virtually empty - He then put in a pound or so of freon to check
for leaks and found none, he then evacuated the system until the reason for
it being empty could be found. The recent DPO had no idea and had not had
the system worked on. The compressor, thermal fuse etc seem to be fine - any
ideas on what could be keeping the system from switching to cool mode from
heating? Perhaps the cabin temp sensor?
TIA
A.J. Owens
From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 10:37:01 -0400
Subject: Driveway stains (wes: Re[2]: electrical gage-85 XJ-S)
I own two Jags, two rice burners (both Hondas) and one Chevy. Guess which
one of the five leaves the driveway stains . . .
… the lump.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: re: electrical gage-85 XJ-S
Author: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au at INTERNET
Date: 07/12/96 01:56 PM
. . . this represents to me an essential and most endearing part of British
culture, which it behooves me as a resident of the former Empire to preserve. I
will not repair this rev counter, nor would I dream of owning one of those
stolid, boring Teutonic products that require neither tapping nor tinkering and
leave no stains on the driveway to mark their territory…
-
- Jan
From: Paul Amaranth amaranth@Oakland.edu
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 11:29:52 -0500 (EDT)
Subject: Curta calculator
This is a stab in the dark, but worth a shot.
I’ve recently become interested in obtaining one of the Curta mechanical
calculators. These are handheld devices that look a bit like a pepper
mill. There were manufactured up to the early '70s and, I gather, were
popular with rally drivers (thus the connection to this list
If anyone has one they’d be willing to part with, drop me a line.
Paul Amaranth Manager User Services - office: (810) 370 4541 (also voicemail)
(e-mail) amaranth@oakland.edu [Rochester, Michigan USA]
Web page: http://www.acs.oakland.edu/~amaranth
From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 11:49:17 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: 1987 XJ-S leather treatment
I find thet the seat leather in my car is getting quite
hard compared to what it should be and I assume the next
stage of this progression will be cracking. I have begun
apply hide food to see if it softens them up. Can anyone
comment on whether this is likely to work or is this
damage irreversible? I intend to get some Connoly dye
once they soften up to helpo restore the color on worn
spots. Any comments or advice based on experience will
be appreciated.
Thomas E. Alberts
From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 10:30:13 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Lawrence Goes Racing in a Jag MkII.
All of us here are Jaguar owners for one reason or another. I’ve gone
on enough here about how I see it all. But, after wrestling with Jags
for going on five years now, somedays I feel a little burnt out dealing
with the day to day quirks of these cars. I dunno, maybe it’s one of
those familiarity breeds contempt issues. The local Jag club meetings
become tiresome, the members annoying and the car polishers tedious.
Closer to home, I watch my XJ6 getting ground down from Anne’s long
daily commute, a spray of paint chips pocketing the front, then a ping
on the windshield and a shattered fog light, next a smoked ignition
switch and finally a “Sorry, honey, if I knew it was going to rain that
hard I wouldn’t have left the windows open.” God knows what’s coming
next, it’s all starting to get old and I’m feeling pretty tired of
continually battling it.
Late winter is the very worst. Yet another grey morning, more dirty
snow or a day-long rain storm. But, just when it seems totally
unbearable, spring arrives. First a warm day comes, then a few brave
flowers start to bloom and the hardy trees begin to leaf out. It is a
time of renewal, rebirth, but forget that nature crap, it’s the sounds
of air wrenches which awakens me, the smell of racing gas that stirs
complex memories of adrenaline and speed and it’s the first crackle of a
unmufflered 3.8L overhead cam racing engine which brings a smile to my
face. Yes, the sun is shining and finally it’s racing season again,
Jaguar racing season.
For me, it started innocently enough, helping a friend run his Triumph
Spitfire in some of the Rocky Mountain Vintage Racing Club events six
years ago,. Being a gearhead at heart, it wasn’t long before I came to
the conclusion that the little four cylinder roadster was just a toy
next to the big-block cars. I soon discovered that I was fascinated with
the Jaguars and I’ll never forget a wonderful day at the Mountain View
course, halfway between Denver and Ft Collins, a few miles east of where
the Rockies rise out of the high plains. That afternoon I figured out
what all the fuss was about as I watched a silver and red 4.2 liter
Jaguar E-type roadster beautifully out-drive and out-muscle a snarling
pack of big-block Corvettes, Mustangs and Camaros. I never saw that
E-type again and always wondered what had happened to it.
It was fantastic and I was hooked. I bought a Jaguar MkII for a family
car before moving up to an XJ6. I soaked up the rich Jaguar racing
history, from the glorious underdog LeMans victories of the fifties to
the dark failures of the seventies and eventual redemption in the
eighties. Images of scrappy Jaguar C and D-types winning against the
formidable Mercedes Benz factory teams and their long silver torpedos,
the best of the powerful 4 liter Ferrari’s and the seasoned Aston Martin
DBR 4’s and 5’s. Then came the waning of the factory teams and the rise
of the privateers, Ecurie Ecosse, Group 44, TWR and others. The saddest
chapter was British (PS) Leyland takeover in the seventies and their
doomed attempt to regain Jaguar’s racing glory, as the Broadspeed V-12
XJ coups failed under their own complexity. Over-weight,
over-engineered and under-supported, it was a grim parable of the whole
disastrous BL era. Then the surprise victories of '80’s Lemans Jags
parallelling the commercial comeback of company.
I felt that I had really arrived by getting personally involved with a
private Jaguar race team, putting the first wrench to an actual racing
Jaguar, paying my dues with long nights at the shop and hot days of
support work in the pits, slowing picking up the intricate language,
dance and rituals of the track. Somehow I really lucked out, and
stumbled upon the neatest couple of Jagaholics running under the banner
of the Mighty Roar Racing Team with their XK-120 coupe and MkII sedan.
Pat and Bob Grossman are enthusiastic yet patient, dedicated yet off the
wall, smart as hell yet willing teach me the basics. I crewed with them
for a couple years, learning about racing, Jaguars and good friends
along the way.
The Gift: Santa arrived a few days before Christmas, bearing a bottle of
wine and a thin manila envelope. In the envelope was a small
certificate with words to the effect:
In appreciation for your tireless help, the Mighty Roar Racing
Team is sending you to the spring RMVR driver's school in the
Team's 1962 Jaguar MkII race car.
I never thought it’d happen, but I was going racing in a Jaguar!!!
As spring arrived Grossman and I were distracted with the huge job of
moving the race shop from one building to another two miles away. At
the last minute, we prepped the big Jaguar MkII Sedan for the racing;
replacing a head gasket, refilling the fluids and getting it all shined
up after it’s winter sleep.
The School: First contact was the Friday night orientation meeting. The
club president played the good cop, warmly welcoming us to the racing
fold. Grossman, as chief marshall, was the bad cop, letting us know
just what was allowed and what was not, leaving us with the clear
impression that the very best thing was to not give him any reason to
come have a chat with you about your driving habits. The guidelines
were simple: think, do the right thing and don’t screw up. If you
contact another car or hit something off course, you are done for the
weekend. I had heard it explained along time ago that the next year no
one remembers is you won or lost a particular race, but they will
remember if you bang up someone else’s car. We went on to learn about
the insurance situation, the cornerworkers and the flagging system
before heading home for a restless night’s sleep.
Early spring mornings at the Second Creek course are cold and windy. At
the driver’s meeting we were told the schedule: a track walk, then a
couple sessions of follow the leader with our instructors. Though we
were all anxious to get in the cars, the track walk was eye-opening. It
quickly became apparent that my instructor, John Connell, knew his
stuff. Though he was a long time 911 pilot, he seemed to know Jags
well. He showed us the braking points, the preferred lines through the
corners and tried to pound into us that the whole point is to drive with
a goal of getting around the whole track fast, rather than trying to get
thru each corner fast. We soaked up all that we could, hoping that we
wouldn’t forget anything important.
We suited up, started the cars and I followed John and the other student
around the track. I didn’t push the MkII too hard, it seemed a bit
squirrly and I lost John after I pitted to check why the MkII wasn’t
warming up the way I expected. With John out of sight I could relax and
drive the course. Following the other instructors, I found myself
driving the straights faster and faster, waiting longer before braking
harder, turning later and later to get thru the corners faster. It was
a real plus driving a mature race car. I had high confidence in the
engine, brakes and rubber. With no passing allowed I could concentrate
on working out my cockpit procedures, gauge checks, the best
shifting/braking methods, spotting cornerworkers while working out my
driving lines and braking points.
The next session John drove the Jag with me as the passenger. He was
pushing that car much harder than I did, but he was all over the track.
We’d slam into a corner, get halfway thru then he’d make a huge
correction and power thru to the next corner. It didn’t feel smooth or
right at all. Finally, coming thru a high-speed chicane, he spun the
Jag in the middle of the track. I was really starting to wonder what
kind of instructor I had been stuck with. He immediately pitted and
declared the car undrivable.
“Yeah, right,” I thought, “I didn’t have any trouble driving it.” But,
later that night back at the shop we discovered that John was absolutely
right. We had flunked prep. The toe-in adjustment binder nut had not
been tightened, giving the car a bad case of toe-out and, when I was in
the passenger seat, I kicked the open a valve on the oil accu-sump,
which had a leaking seal, resulting in oil dripping down directly in
front of the rear wheel. We reset the toe-in, cleaned up the oil, wired
the accu-sump closed and got the MkII back on the trailer.
The next days driver’s meeting laid out the rules to the days sessions.
a couple sessions with limited passing, then a real race in the
afternoon. I gridded up behind a brace of push-rod V8 mustangs led by a
very experienced instructor and tried to keep up with them. It was
great fun, but quite unnerving to suddenly have a rear-view mirror full
of 911 and trying to decide how to deal with it. The big Jag was much
better behaved in the morning sessions and I was able to get it to a few
points where I was pushing it to it’s limits rather than it pushing me
to mine. It was quite a thrill to be able to pull away from the Camaro
and the Cougar which showed up on my tail halfway through the session.
But these were just the practice sessions. After the green flag/start
demo over lunch would be the real race session.
Finally, that afternoon came the chance to actually take the wheel of a
fully race-prepped Jaguar on a track, in competition with other drivers.
In the beginning you simply try to get around the track without screwing
up, tentative and apprehensive as you do your best to absorb all the new
things which are unfolding around you so fast. Then you start to push
the car with more and more more confidence as it all begins to click for
a bit and you get a glimpse of what all the fuss is really about. But
an instant later, you miss the line or blow a shift and find yourself
all tied up in mental knots again, juggling aggression and caution,
pride with fear, your skills with the unknown. Before long, your
confidence is back, everything becomes right again and soon you
transition to this wonderful time-without-time where life reduces down
to a 3-second stream-of-consciousness window of total focus on setting
up this line just right, late brake, late apex under acceleration, wind
it out, shift-up, wind it out, brake, brake HARDER, downshift, pushing
into the next corner hotter, accelerating out faster, passing that Alfa,
dropping the cars off your tail then getting smoked by a someone even
faster, trusting the Jag, pushing it hard and probing your limits
before, suddenly it’s over, the checkered’s out and you’re pulling into
the pits with muscles trembling and a huge grin on your face.
Afterwards we trailered the Jag and discussed the race, reviewing what
went well and what didn’t. In the course of the conversation, I
discovered that my instructor was the owner/driver of that silver and
red E-type which I had first seen so many years before.
My Jaguar racing experience was fantastic and it’s one which all too few
Jaguar owners get to experience. There’s something exhilarating about
being around these cars being driven as they were meant to be, hard and
at the limits of their design. And, like all good things in life,
spectating simply can’t compare with participating.
/\ Lawrence Buja http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern/
_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
________________Boulder,Colorado___80307-3000
From: chatmans@ext.missouri.edu
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 96 11:40:52 cdt
Subject: XJ6 Series 3 - Tire Sizes
Hi.
The following contains some facts and amateur opinions. I hope that
those with experience or expertise will contribute to the discussion.
Also, I have assumed that the reader knows at least as much as I do
about tire width, aspect ratio and effective diameter and doesn't mind
converting inches to centimeters.
I requested wheel tire combinations that have proved successful on XJ6
Series 3 cars and have received few responses. Perhaps we are
satisfied with recommended sizes or clearance is too large a problem.
I would still like to learn more about the possibilities but here is
what I now have regarding 15 inch wheels. Recognizing that there were
likely marketing differences by country and that I'm relying on a book
called Hollander Wheels Identification and Interchange Manual, here is
what I've found. Please correct errors that you notice.
Until the XJ40 in 1988, the XJ6 used a 15x6 wheel. Tire sizes were
205/70 or, optionally, 215/70. From 1988 to 1993, wheels were 15x7
(various slotted alloys) or 15x6.5 (diamond spoke). The recommended tire
size for the XJ40 was also 205/70.
If my computations are correct, here are tire widths and total diameter
for various 15 inch alternatives. Please note that I only have reported
success for 4: 205/70 or 215/70 for the XJ6 and 205/70 and 215/65 for
the XJ40.
205/70 is 26.3 inches in diameter and 8.0 inches wide.
215/65 is 26.0 inches in diameter and 8.4 inches wide.
215/70 is 26.9 inches in diameter and 8.4 inches wide.
225/60 is 25.6 inches in diameter and 8.8 inches wide.
225/65 is 26.5 inches in diameter and 8.8 inches wide.
235/60 is 26.1 inches in diameter and 9.2 inches wide.
If correct, then both the 205 and 215 tires have been used on 6, 6.5,
and 7 inch wide wheels. Or in other words, the range has been from an
8.4 inch wide tire on a 6 inch wheel to an 8 inch tire on a 7 inch
wheel. Using the XJ6's 215/70 on a 6 inch wheel as a limit, could an
owner so inclined put 235/60's on a 7 inch wheel or 225/65's on a 6 1/2
inch wheel? What if you put 6.5 or 7 inch wheels on a Series 3. Could
you then use 225's or 235's? Has anyone tried?
Last comments:
Total diameter probably has a greater impact on visual appeal and other
considerations than on speedometer accuracy (about 3 mph at 70 from
largest to smallest listed). Also, there is much better selection for
some sizes than others. For example, there are many 215/65's and few
215/70's. And last, yes, I too might harbor redneck tendencies.
Steve Chatman
From: nick@sn.no
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 19:14:25 +0200
Subject: Any Jag-lovers near Groeningen?
Jag-lover Gunnar Helliesen is having problems with his '86 XJ6
just outside Groeningen in the Netherlands. He believes it may
be a tappet guide that has come loose. Question is: is it safe
to drive on, or should be seek immediate assistance?
If he needs assistance, are there are Jag-lovers in the area
that might be able to offer any support?
Gunnar will be phoning me back later. Please help him.
Nick
From: bizmodel@prodigy.com (MR DAVID V KERNER)
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 13:40:05, -0500
Subject: Re: Jag breakers yard in CA?
- – [ From: David V. Kerner * EMC.Ver #2.10P ] –
I have used British Motorsports and have been pleased with them. Their
address is:1143 Dell Ave. Campbell, CA. Their telephone number is (408)
370-7174. By the way they sell both new and used parts.
Cheers
Bud
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 14:03:19 -0400
Subject: Re: Lawrence Goes Racing in a Jag MkII.
On Jul 12, 10:30am, Lawrence Buja wrote:
Subject: Lawrence Goes Racing in a Jag MkII.
Images of scrappy Jaguar C and D-types winning against the
formidable Mercedes Benz factory teams and their long silver torpedos,
Did ANYONE ever beat M-B in the 60’s??? '55 LeMans doesn’t count- MB quit
while Moss was still leading in the 300 SLR (by 2 laps over the 2nd place
D-type. I don’t think Jaguar ever beat Mercedes in the '50s.
Mark
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #208
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jag-lovers-digest Sunday, 14 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 209
Daimler Corsica Pictures
Re: Lawrence Goes Racing in a Jag MkII.
mark II 3.8l
Visit to the dealer ( 88 XJ-S v12 )
Engine timing
Re: 1987 XJ-S leather treatment
Re: Visit to the dealer ( 88 XJ-S v12 )
Re: Engine timing (Series 3 XJ6)
Re: 1987 XJ-S leather treatment
Correction to earlier post
XJ6 starting problem and Relay Identification
E-Type Exhaust leak
Re:Relay Identification
Older saloon power steering slop
Mileage and fuel-octane advise
re.Lawrence Goes Racing in a Jag MkII.
Re: Lawrence Goes Racing in a Jag MkII.
XJ Suspension Modifications
From: TezFair@aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 14:55:04 -0400
Subject: Daimler Corsica Pictures
Hi Jag people,
I have aquired a few pictures from work, scanned them and can be found under
the gallery section on my ‘http://members.aol.com/tezfair/ford.html’ page.
Enjoy
Terry Fairbrother
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 15:30:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Lawrence Goes Racing in a Jag MkII.
On Jul 12, 2:03pm, Mark McChesney wrote:
Did ANYONE ever beat M-B in the 60’s???
Da, I mean the '50s - Mercedes didn’t race in the '60s! Sorry.
Mark
PS everyone who is getting parts from me they’ll be sent out REAL soon.- Just
got back from vac. and am back working 7 days/week again-eech #&@%$*!!!
From: Rolando.Arroyo@ncal.kaiperm.org
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 12:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: mark II 3.8l
dear ian finlay and other jag lovers,
congratulations, i too just purchased my first mark ii .
it is a 1962 mark ii and has the reclining seats (definately a plus),
whire wheels,etc. The only draw back is no airconditioning, map light
vent fan and horn do not work. Any suggestions on repairing above or
adding airconditiong? The previous owner also upgraded the transmission
with an xj-6 transmission. What kind of gas milage should i be getting?
I drove 100 miles on 1/2 a tank.
From: jwh@dwrock.dw.lucent.com
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 96 14:50:00 PDT
Subject: Visit to the dealer ( 88 XJ-S v12 )
I made a trip to the dealer today to get an estimate on some front end
damage ( fog lighjts & spoiler was broken ) that was caused by a truck in
front of me with a re-tread tire that retired. Ouch. When speaking to the
mechanic he liked the idea or the job that I did replacing the stock fans
cooling fans with electric fans that cover the entire radiator. He told me
of a different modification I may want to try. according to him, if you
replace the 2 coil system within large coil like is used on newer cars (
can’t remember the name of the ignition system, it starts with a M and
sounds Italian to me ). This coil evidently produces 50,000 volts the plugs
instead of 25,000 as with the current set up and can maintain this without
the need for 2 coils. He also fixed my rpm surging problem by simply
tightening all of the intake manifold bolts…Evendently these can get loose
over time and need to be checked.
Also, anyone in the Denver or rocky Mountain area that is looking for a good
winter car ( so the JAG does not get hurt ) Stevenson Imports has a
Ferrari 340 GT, red with 95K miles asking $25K. Looks good, but is a bit
out of my price range
John Himes
88 XJ-S 95K miles
From: scoleman@pcl.net (Steve Coleman)
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 17:43:15 -0500
Subject: Engine timing
Today I checked and adjusted the timing on my 1987 XJ6 SIII for the
first time since I bought it in March this year (OK, it was the first
time I have adjusted the timing on any car). Anyway, using my inductive
timing light I adjusted the timing to 17 degrees BTDC, 800 RPM, vacuum
advance disconnected. The car seemed to run OK afterward, as it has
since I got it as a matter of fact. As I was later looking through the
shop manual I discovered that cylinder number one was the REAR cylinder,
not the forward one as I had assumed. So I went back and checked the
timing with the timing light connected to the rear plug wire rather than
the front one and the strobe indicated–17 degrees BTDC! I then checked
the timing with the strobe connected to each plug wire in turn and each
time got the same result–17 degrees BTDC. How can this be? Am I
misunderstanding some fundamental principle of engine timing, or do I
have a serious ignition problem here?
Steve Coleman
1987 XJ6 SIII
1989 XJ40
From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 1996 20:00:43 -0700
Subject: Re: 1987 XJ-S leather treatment
Thomas Alberts asked:
I find thet the seat leather in my car is getting quite
hard compared to what it should be and I assume the next
stage of this progression will be cracking. I have begun
apply hide food to see if it softens them up. Can anyone
comment on whether this is likely to work or is this
damage irreversible?<
I am interested in the reply to this as well, so please make sure you post
your answers to the group. Please.
Thomas also asked:
I intend to get some Connoly dye
once they soften up to helpo restore the color on worn
spots. Any comments or advice based on experience will
be appreciated.>
I just “redyed” all of the leather in my 85 XJ-S (“biscuit” what else??),
except for the front seats which I recovered with new leather (I used a kit
for these). The redyeing process was fairly easy and straightforward. I
spent a lot of time clening the old leather which had begun fading (actually
the “dye” is a lacquer and apparently it had dried sufficiently to have
begun flaking off in areas of high contact; the net effect is that the
underlying leather was showing through the dye) but was not cracked.
After cleaning the leather first with a leather cleaner solution (I used the
leather cleaner from the Jag dealer and scrubbed with a soft nylon brush
including all the crevices; the cleaner worked great and went a long way, I
only used one-half of a bottle for essentially the whole car), I wiped it
down with a moist rag and let it dry over three to four days. The next step
was to then wipe the leather down with lacquer thinner to make sure that any
oils were taken off. A fair amount of pigment came off the old finish in
this step but the thinner did not strip the old dye. I again let the
leather dry over three to four days.
I then applied the dye with a disposable type spray unit (ACE hardware sells
them pretty cheap). This step required several consecutive light sprays
with several hours of drying time in between. This I think is the critical
step and I was fortunate that I live in Arizona where the air is super dry.
I thought all along that the dye had dried between coats. However, after
about two weeks of very hot and dry weather I came to realize that it had
taken that long for the lacquer to actually dry (this is based on the “feel”
of the finish to the touch). I suspect that if I had done this in a wetter
climate the dye would still be drying!!! My advice to anyone trying this in
other climates is that you actually allow one to two days between coats
and/or use heat lamps and fans to speed the drying process. Even then don’t
expect the dye to be completely dry for a while (it will feel just slightly
“sticky” and you will be able to tell the difference only after it actually
cures dry).
Also the dye does not really penetrate into the leather. It is a lacquer
and forms a very thin and flexible coating on top of the leather. It is
thinned (mine came ready to be sprayed and did not require additional
thining) and therefore also transluscent; so it takes several repeated coats
to get it evenly spread out. Also, while the color match with the recovered
front seats was pretty close, I can assure you that re-dyed patches will
stand out. Your best bet here is to actually redye all of the surface
around the patches to a natural break such as the piping around the edges.
You are actully better off doing the whole top of the back-seat for
instance, rather than just a small area.
The only aspect of the redyeing that I wish would be different is that the
finish is shinier than the original finish. I don’t know if this is because
of my technique or whether it is just part of process. I’ve had some
success taking the shine off by wiping very lightly and quickly the
refinished surface (well after the dye dried) with a rag soaked in lacquer
thinner. However you have to do this very fast in order to not lift the
finish off altogether (no it didn’t happen to me).
Lastly I got my dye from a US supplier. If anyone is interested in contact
informatin let me know. Also let me know if you have any questions about
the process. I’ll be glad to share whatever else I learned.
Happy dyeing!!!
Rob W-M
85 XJ-S
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 22:13:27 -0700
Subject: Re: Visit to the dealer ( 88 XJ-S v12 )
John,
The late model ignition system is Italian manufactured Marelli
brand. The late cars still use 2 coils but have one for each bank. The
system is computer controlled but you should be able to use the coils.
The intake system is prone to leaks. You should use propane gas to
locate leaks. A manifold gasket can split and cause the cylider to run
lean which usually causes a dropped valve seat.
John Himes
88 XJ-S 95K miles
========================================================
Michael P. Neal Master Jaguar Technician
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 22:28:22 -0700
Subject: Re: Engine timing (Series 3 XJ6)
Steve,
Cylinders 1 and 6, 2 and 5, 3 and 4 are companion cylinders. This
means that the crankpins are on the same plane. When No. 1 is on the
compression stroke No. 6 is on the exhaust stroke at exactly the same
time. This means you can check the timing at either cylinder. This is
also handy for leakdown testing. I rotate the engine by hand with the
tester installed in one cylinder and insert a long 1/4" extension into
the companion cylinder. This allows me to eyeball TDC so the motor
doesn’t spin over when I apply air to the tester.
The one thing to be careful when you pull a head on one of these
engines is to set up the distributor to the correct cylinder. Because
of the companion cylinder syndrome it is possible to get the distributor
off 180 degrees. Jaguar, in their great wisdom, set the timing marks on
the cams to correspond to the distributor being set to No. 6 cylinder.
I can always tell when some “True Professional” mechanic has been at a
car. The distributor is always 180 degrees off!
Steve Coleman wrote:
Today I checked and adjusted the timing on my 1987 XJ6 SIII for the
first time since I bought it in March this year (OK, it was the first
time I have adjusted the timing on any car). Anyway, using my inductive
timing light I adjusted the timing to 17 degrees BTDC, 800 RPM, vacuum
advance disconnected. The car seemed to run OK afterward, as it has
since I got it as a matter of fact. As I was later looking through the
shop manual I discovered that cylinder number one was the REAR cylinder,
not the forward one as I had assumed. So I went back and checked the
timing with the timing light connected to the rear plug wire rather than
the front one and the strobe indicated–17 degrees BTDC! I then checked
the timing with the strobe connected to each plug wire in turn and each
time got the same result–17 degrees BTDC. How can this be? Am I
misunderstanding some fundamental principle of engine timing, or do I
have a serious ignition problem here?
Steve Coleman
1987 XJ6 SIII
1989 XJ40
========================================================
Michael P. Neal Master Jaguar Technician
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 1996 08:54:20 -0400
Subject: Re: 1987 XJ-S leather treatment
Thomas:
I have been using Gliptone Liquid Leather. It seems to soften the leather
quite a bit, and it has a leather-like fragrance which makes the interior
smell new.
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
At 11:49 AM 7/12/96 -0400, you wrote:
I find thet the seat leather in my car is getting quite
hard compared to what it should be and I assume the next
stage of this progression will be cracking. I have begun
apply hide food to see if it softens them up. Can anyone
comment on whether this is likely to work or is this
damage irreversible? I intend to get some Connoly dye
once they soften up to helpo restore the color on worn
spots. Any comments or advice based on experience will
be appreciated.Thomas E. Alberts
From: jwh@dwrock.dw.lucent.com
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 96 21:29:00 PDT
Subject: Correction to earlier post
In a earlier post today I mentioned a modification a Jag Mechanic told me
today about replacing the 2 coil system on my 88 XJ-S V12 to use a single
coil as is used on newer cars. These have a Marelli (sp?) coil. (NOW I
Remember the name) He said that this coil output gives a stronger spark at
50,000 volts instead of 25,000 with the current setup and does not have the
rise capacity problem the 2 coil system is designed to prevent. I also
forgo, he has a friend that is also a Jag mech. in TX, USA that used some
spare intake manifolds and his MIG welder to have 2 butterfly air intakes on
each bank instead of one as is stock. Apparently runs great. He also
drilled a bunch of holes in the side of the filter covers for more air flow.
John Himes
88 XJ-S 95K Miles
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 1996 09:36:08 -0500
Subject: XJ6 starting problem and Relay Identification
My 82 series III will refuse to start on occasion. very intermitently. By
refuse to start I mean turn the key and NOTHING. Starter does not turn,
NOTHING. The battery is fine.
I have found that on other cars this is because of a bad connection on one
of the battery cables which can be found by touch (they get hot).
But this one is somewhat different.
Usualy opening the hood and looking at the engine (a typical response of
many motorists) it will then miraculously start.
But I discovered by accident why that works. Two days ago it happened. I
opened the hood and looked. Didn’t work, still nothing. I pulled on the
cables to rotate them on the connections (this will sometimes “wipe” a bad
connection off). Nothing. Then by accident I bumped the three “relays” on
the firewall just above the engine at dead center. It atarted! Aparently
unlatching the hood jiggles these “relays” enough to fix the problem most of
the time.
Can anyone identify those three “relays”? My manual does not identify the
location of ANY electronic components (Haynes). I assume the RED one on the
passanger side (right, here in the USA) is a relay but the two gray ones are
smaller and I am not so sure they are relays. They are positioned just
above the heater valve on the firewall.
Jim
“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil
From: Ed Scripps 73200.2362@CompuServe.COM
Date: 13 Jul 96 17:05:56 EDT
Subject: E-Type Exhaust leak
I’m having some trouble closing an exhaust leak and I’m looking for a little
advice.
Recently I replaced the pipes that go from the muffler to the resonators on a
series I 4.2 E-type. I can’t seem to get rid of a couple of leaks where the
pieces come together. I’ve tightened the clamps till they nearly break yet
exhaust still shoots out between the pipes and the muffler.
Any tips?
Thanks,
Ed
From: nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu (Nikolai Chitaev)
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 1996 17:22:16 -0600
Subject: Re:Relay Identification
Can anyone identify those three “relays”? My manual does not identify the
location of ANY electronic components (Haynes). I assume the RED one on the
passanger side (right, here in the USA) is a relay but the two gray ones are
smaller and I am not so sure they are relays. They are positioned just
above the heater valve on the firewall.Jim
Jim, I can enlighten you about two of them.
The middle, “red” one is cold start relay,
the smaller one, which is closest two batery is fuel pump relay (if I
remember correctly). But I don`t recal now, what the last one is doing.
Nikolai A. Chitaev, PhD.
<<87`XJ6 4.2L, EFI, BRG>>
{nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu}
{http://128.252.119.253}
St.Louis, Missouri, USA
From: ROLindsay@aol.com
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 1996 19:05:23 -0400
Subject: Older saloon power steering slop
Hi gang. It’s been a while since I posted a note. Yet, I have a question.
I am (slowly) rebuilding a '66 3.8 “S” Type saloon. I have just replaced
all of the rubber/steel bushings in the front-end. It made a considerable
difference as the car was prone to “wonder” at road speed. Yet, there is
still a lot more “play” (pronounced “slop”) in the steering than I desire.
I have read the steering section of the service manual (section “i”) only
to find that it is characteristically weak in relating cause (defect) to
effect (slop). It does describe an adjustment for end-travel that involves
sizing shims. But, I don’t know if this potentially mal-adjusted scenerio
is the cause of the sloppy steering.
The car has power (assisted) steering of the style the manual calls “type
one”. (It also leaks fluid from a bad seal in the high pressure hose
connection.) Let me better describe the problem:
While traveling straight ahead, I can turn the steering wheel 30 degrees
or so with no action transmitted to the wheels. It’s like a range in the
middle of the steering where the wheel has no action! The car no longer
is “loose” on the road but it does leave one with a very “out of control”
feeling. So, the questions are,
- Is the end-travel adjustment the culprit?
- Is the “box” just very worn and needs replacing/rebuilding?
- Has some ham-fisted pseudo-mechanic been in there mucking things up?
- All of the above?
I would GUESS that the same steering box was used on the Mk-II, 340,
420 and perhaps the bigger saloons. I havn’t checked the parts catalogs
to verify this guess.
Have any of you been in to the steering box on one of these cars? Or,
have any of you had/have this problem. Any and all advice is appreciated.
I really don’t want to pull that box apart if I don’t have to. It is really
a
mess of loose balls, rollers and stuff. I’m a very carefull and “clean”
rebuilder but ANYBODY can accidentally drop a tray of little parts!
Thanks in advance for any help you might offer.
Regards,
Rick Lindsay, Tulsa, Oklahoma USA
'66 3.8 “S”-Type
'89 420 SEL Mercedes
From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
Date: Tue, 09 Jul 1996 18:21:33 -0700
Subject: Mileage and fuel-octane advise
I’d like to hear from the rest of you out there with XJ-Ss regarding:
- I get about 9-10mpg in city driving and 12-13mpg in highway driving. I
use 92-octane “premium” fuel and live in a very hot climate (Arizona). How
does this compare to your gas copnsumption? - Any of you using lower octane fuel (less than 92)? How does the car
drive with lower octane fuel? In this area the typical octane ratings are
87, 89, and 92. - Do any of you use the add-in type fuel injector-cleaner additives? If
so, what type and do you think they do any good? Are they bad? - Last, I go through a quart of oil about every 1500 miles. This is
higher than what I am used to in american cars. The car does not “smoke” at
any time, does not leak engine oil (it does leak other fluids!!!), and, even
when the oil level is low, the oil on the dipstick is relatively “clear” and
not black. I replace the oil filter and the oil every 3,000 miles
religiously. Is the oil consumption typical or is it an indication of
something out of whack?
Any comments, experiences, or suggestions will be perused with a great deal
of interest!!! Thanks,
Rob W-M
85 XJ-S
From: Don Tracey dont@echuca.net.au
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 1996 08:23:56 +1100
Subject: re.Lawrence Goes Racing in a Jag MkII.
Subject: Lawrence Goes Racing in a Jag MkII. Somehow I really lucked out, and
stumbled upon the neatest couple of Jagaholics running under the banner
of the Mighty Roar Racing Team with their XK-120 coupe and MkII sedan.
Pat and Bob Grossman are enthusiastic yet patient, dedicated yet off the
wall, smart as hell yet willing teach me the basics. I crewed with them
for a couple years, learning about racing, Jaguars and good friends
along the way.
I thought the name Bob Grossman sounded familiar,I went to the Jaguar
xk Gold Portfolio book where on page 144 is an article on a 150s racing
with a Bob Grossman . Could this be the same man ? The article was from
Sports Car Illustrated Dec 1958,if it is he’s been racing for along
time.
Don Tracey
Australia.
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 1996 10:34:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Lawrence Goes Racing in a Jag MkII.
On Jul 12, 2:03pm, Mark McChesney wrote:
Subject: Re: Lawrence Goes Racing in a Jag MkII.
Did ANYONE ever beat M-B in the 50’s??? '55 LeMans doesn’t count- MB quit
while Moss was still leading in the 300 SLR (by 2 laps over the 2nd place
D-type). I don’t think Jaguar ever beat Mercedes in the '50s.
No one has replied to my question,(I seem to have started a thread w/myself
here- help me out) I am no historian, but I remember somewhere reading that the
Mercedes factory team was never beaten. Jaguar messed up at LeMans one year(not
sure which) w/ the C-type - they got scared that Mercedes was entering and
modified the body of the C-types to try and get more top speed. The cars
overheated as a result and the Mercs walked away w/the race. Had Jaguar left
the bodywork alone they would have surly won as the Mercs were slower. Then in
'55 the D- types had the lap record but Moss in the 300 SLR was still way out
ahead when the order to quit was given by the Merc factory (because of the big
accident). I only know about LeMans, what about other races? There may have
been some private entry Mercs that got beat by Jaguars - but the factory???
Anyway, this is sort of interesting to me as my father-in-law is buying
(today!) a 1972 Mercedes 6.3 sedan (one of only 9 imported to the US that year)
it has 50,000 miles and is in very good shape - needs paint(no rust) and new
ft. seat leather, he is getting it for $2400 -I say again $2400! The seller
didn’t really know what he had- they took it out to test drive it and they
couldn’t stop laughing for hours after, it was so fast. The seller followed in
a '95 Mustang Cobra and the Merc left it for dead - the Mercedes looks so
boring, could be a diesel for all anyone would know, but just wicked fast!
Magz. tests of the time put 0-60 at 5.6 and 5.8sec. My father-in-law is teasing
me(as only a father-in-law can) about how he is going to stomp my E-type and
how Mercedes 4-door grandmother cars are faster than Jaguars sportscar. Woe is
me. He knows I’m spending $9,000 on a high perf. engine rebuild and I still
don’t think I could stay w/him w/that. To top it off the Mercedes club says
that the 6.3 is good for about a 1/2 million miles before he even has to think
about a rebuild.
So it would be nice to know if Jaguar ever beat Mercedes…
Mark McChesney
'65 Etype ots
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@CompuServe.COM
Date: 14 Jul 96 16:48:49 EDT
Subject: XJ Suspension Modifications
Hi Robert Dingli,
So you wanna be a racer ?. Sounds interesting, but I would not do it with my
“road” XJC -too much to
write off in a split second, however my humble opinion to the recommended mods :
If we talk a Race - XJ for closed circuit the recommendations seem sensible,
basically removing play in the suspension by removing /stiffening rubbers.
However for your road going XJ some are not appropiate :
Front suspension:
Replace the rubber ‘eye’ bush that supports the front of the subframe
with a solid aluminium unit, solely relying on the rubber V blocks for
compliance.
The rubber eyes have some movement during wild cornering but nothing that you
would dare to force
to notice on a public road ! The bushes are part of the Jaguar legendary ride,
and I would not change these to aluminium nor to hard plastic. If yours are old
just replace them. The same goes for the front suspension rear V mounts.
Replace the upper inner wishbone bushes with harder Nolathane (polyurethane)
units but leave the lower inners rubber.
This is a possibility which will stiffen the relative movement of the wishbones
to the front suspension subframe (and the Upright . Under hard cornering, the
top wishbone of the outher corner wheel will be exposed to a force attempting to
pull the wishbone out, away from the car. The Rubbers will give very slightly
and will cause a change in Camber angle, which changes the attack angle of the
rubber to the road, however the last point requires further factors discussed
such as the tyre distortion. Obviously ? the lower profile the less distortion
(and the less comfort driving the car on the straight).
Replace front springs with stiffer units (up to 100% stiffer for racing)
and replace shock absorbers with adjustable ‘AVO’ units.
This is a subject to much controversy. Stiffer springs is not a cure for good
cornering (not alone), but serves to reduce the level of movement of the wheel
in respect to the body, orr said differently, to transfer movements of the wheel
more readily to the chassis.
Jags are softies, again the legendary ride, and in order to obtain better
cornering without sacrificing
comfort completely, a sensible approach to the increase of the spring rate is
required. 100 % will make the car unbearable to drive. An uprate of 25% all
around will increase the performance in cornering, but the real performance
increase comes only with increased torsion bar rate.
The torsion bar in front can be increased 100 - 200 % with adversely affecting
the ride comfort, but the car
stays horizontal during even very hard cornering (on the limit). This is a much
overlooked improvement of any car. My XJC is destined for a Harvey Bailey
Engineering Treatment in UK. This is a precisely engineered suspension mod pack
consisting of re-valved Bilstein schocks, 25% uprated springs, and increased
torsion bar front AND A TORSION BAR REAR. Cost : 1000 Pounds.
Schocks : First these must be GOOD. Adjustable is fine , I have just bought
Adjustable SPAX (middle of the road quality), in order to experiment with the
setting. The setting is adjustable from the outside (turn wheel out, get
screwdriver out , adjust. This is a 30 second procedure. KONI has adjustables
but require to take them out. This is a 2 hour procerdure per wheel in a
workshop.
However it must be realised that adjustables set to hard for the spring rate
will cause the schock to carry the load and the load id given to the upper
schock mount whichj will break shortly. Just open the bonnet on any XJ 10 -15
years old. Half of them have upper front schocjk mounts which are split, and or
rusted
away.
Rear suspension:
Turn front trailing arm bushes 90 degrees to stiffen them in the fore/aft
direction.
Stiffer springa and shocks as per front suspension.
You can do this. It will give only slight improvement - I doubt you will notice.
Note that the rear suspension trailing arm is to take up acceleration and
braking forces. Note also that this arrangement is imperfect since the vertical
movement of the arm causes it to move the rear subframe forth and back (which
turning the bush 90 degrees will not gete rid of). When you have realised this
is true, think of what happens during hard cornering. Say you go into a tight
left bend, the car tilts right. The right rear trailing arm will be near
horisontal, due to the suspension right being depressed hard. The rear left
suspension trailing arm will be lower at the rear end (where the small bush is)
since the body moved up, and thus the arm has svung down PULLING the rear
subframe closer to the middle of the car. We have now unveiled the Jaguar Rear
Steering. The Relative movement of the whole rear subframe is in this example
clockwise when viewing the car from the top going through the left bend. This
effect adds to the steering of the front wheels and thus adds to provoke
oversteering. Ever notice that Jags can be very Nimble on cornering ?. It
frightens me - but one learns to live with it. You can now appreciate that
reducing the tilt of the car during cornering by adding rear and front uprated
torsion bars greatly improve the overall “feel”.
Replace rear disk rotors with ventilated units.
Yes - if you like , however the front is more important. Here you would gain
considerable braking performance by uprating to 12" or 13" or 14" ventilated
racing discs from AP racing in UK.
No cheap Mod however, expect about 1200-2000 Pounds for uprated discs, and 4 pot
aluminium brake calipers depending upon the size, which will make the car brake
like a Porsche 911 (I am saving…)
I have Rear ventilated discs, Bought a conversion kit inn UK at (ask for phone
numbers if interested) Price is 220 Pounds, for 2 discs and a kit to widen the
old calibers. I uprated bevcause I like the idea, and because I believe it will
reduce the heat to the rear diff Seals.
Other important modes are : Super lightweight alloys (titanium…
Magnesium…) $$$$$. and Lightweight
Brake calipers (aluminium) (see above brake mod). Such mods are to reduce the
socalled unsprung weight which improves the wheel’s ability to follow the road
surface. A great mass has inertia and inertia makes slow.
And another Mod : the steering rack bushes : get plastic ones. The steering rack
itself, should be from a series three XJ, which improves the feel, however it
is inadequate for a real performer. For this a rack from ZF is required. The
xj’s racks cannot pump the required amount on a real tight left right left bends
and that is horrifying. You whack the steering 1/2 turn at lightning speed and
the wheel moves responsively at first and then sets in going real tight. This
change in weight is dangeraous since it is speed dependent (steering wheel
accelaration - not the speed of the car) and it cannot be “helped” by
“experienced drivers”.
But again the most of us don’t have nerves to check this out !!!.
Hope this was of some use - swap with some injection tech talk (when I have
time to get the injection fixed - I am determined to clean up the XJ12
injection/ignition )
Regards Jeffrey Gram
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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 15 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 210
URGENT! Help!
Re: Re:I think it is starter solenoid.
Re: Mileage and fuel-octane advise
XJ6 S1 - Ignition lock (HELP!)
Re: Mileage and fuel-octane advise
Re: Lawrence Goes Racing in a Jag MkII
request for info on XJR-S models
'76 XJ12 - Spark Plugs, heat ranges
Re: Mileage and fuel-octane advise
oil capacity 3.4L
Re: E-Type Exhaust leak
AJ-V8 Auto transmission for XK8
JAG AJV8 Engine Specification
RE: Older saloon power steering slop
Re: 1987 XJ-S leather treatment
Re: Mileage and fuel-octane advise
Re: 1987 XJ-S leather treatment
From: BMack7316@aol.com
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 1996 16:57:45 -0400
Subject: URGENT! Help!
Need help lining up a XJS HE Distributor. Did it by the book and no start.
Spark and battery juice good. Any secrets we should know about?
Please call Jeremy at (703) 764-2109 collect. It is 5:00 pm EST in Virginia,
USA.
Thanks in advance
Brad Mack
From: nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu (Nikolai Chitaev)
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 1996 16:14:32 -0600
Subject: Re: Re:I think it is starter solenoid.
Neither the fuel pump relay nor the cold start relay would be the cause of
my problem which is the starter does not rotate.I wish the problem would last long enough to troubble shoot it, but it only
happens once in a while and it goes away very quickly on opening the hood.
My fear is that it will happen one day when my wife is out in the boondocks
and I am not available to fix it.Thanks for the information. At least two of the relays are not my
problem…#8-)Jim
Jim, frankly saing, I had something similar to the simptoms you desribed,
but it started different.
Once, I was about to start the car. It started as usuall, but I noticed
that some other noise appeared. Engine is working, and something “Buzzing”
in the backgrownd, which was never before. At first, I thought that noise
is comimg from outside of the car. I left the car, got around and realized
that noise is comimg from under the hood. I stopped the car, and it
appeares that it defenetly coming from starter. After the while the noise
stopped. Then I tried to start the car, and you guess it, nothing happend.
No usual solenoid click, nothing!!! The car looked absolutelly dead.
I checed all the connections, everything was OK, but car wont start. Then I
took Laurences "Started Guide", took off (dissassembled) starter from the engine, and troubleshoot it. It appeared that the problem was, starter solenoid. It wont egaged as it suppose to do. After playing aroud with solenoid, it finaly start to work. I put it back into the car, now again everithing worked OK. A couple of months latter, the same thing happend again. I started the car, it starts, but solenoid again wont quit, and was "buzzing", which means engaging itself. I soped the car, dissconnected the wire which runs from batery to the starter (white/red fat wire), but to no avail, solenoid, I dont now how, still engaging itself and was very hot. I
just slam it with wrench, it quits. But the car now wont start again.
Everything repeated itself.
I was lazy to repeat dissassemby procedure, and sinse anyway I dont know what I fixed at first time, I just slam solenoid couple more times. It start to work again!!! Since then, it working. I just got the wrench ready for any ocasion to slamm the soleniod. If your car wont start, and you dont hear the solenoid “click” when you start the car, just slamm the
solenoid couple of times, it should work. The problem I think is
lubrication. It probably stick to the off position, so it could not be
engaged.
Nikolai A. Chitaev, PhD.
<<87`XJ6 4.2L, EFI, BRG>>
{nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu}
{http://128.252.119.253}
St.Louis, Missouri, USA
From: ehuff@tuba.aix.calpoly.edu
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 1996 16:49:04 -0700
Subject: Re: Mileage and fuel-octane advise
In response to Rob’s questions re XJS mileage, fuel, etc., my experience with
my 1985 XJS is as follows:
-
I regularly get about13-14 mpg around town and about 17-18 in highway
driving. I live along the central California coast where the weather is
always perfect. -
I regularly use 87 octane fuel as the owners manual suggests and have
noticed no ill effects. -
I occasionally use fuel injector cleaners but not any particular brand,
-
I change my oil every 3000 miles and normally do not have to add oil.
Am I typical?
Earl Huff
85 XJS
53 XK120
47 Triumph 1800 Roadster
From: per@quantum.ece.ucsb.edu (Per Stenius)
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 96 17:43:09 PDT
Subject: XJ6 S1 - Ignition lock (HELP!)
OK, so the unthinkable has happened. As some of you might know, I have been
working on my A/C lately, and it was now time to put all the parts together
again. This meant reinstalling the dash, instument panel and glove box. All
went fine, but in the process I noticed that my ignition/steering lock was a
bit loose. No problem, I thought, having discovered a little bolt at the end
of it (the end that meets the steering column) - just tighten there… so I
did… The end of the bolt (the hexagonal top) looked beefy so I just tightened
it normally - and “crack”, that’s when things started going wrong: the bolt
snapped (under that beefy hex-end was a truly wimpy bolt, 2mm roughly!)!
OK, no problem, I did get the lock tightened up, and I figured I can
drill out the bolt in there one of these days… WRONG! When I tried the
ignition switch, the key would not turn even to reach the first position!
Now, I tried to turn the steering wheel,thinking maybe the steering is jamming
the lock, but it turns freely (even when key is not in). The key only turns
slightly, and does not reach the first point of contact.
So far: I tried to drill out the headless bolt, but when the drill was half
way through the lock I stopped. The key still does not turn. I have drilled
with roughly the thickness of the boltthreads a bit over hafway through, and
then with a slightly thicker one slightly less than half through. No change.
PLEASE! If anybody has the slightest clue of what went wrong with the lock and
what I need to do to get the key turning again, please let me know ASAP!!!
I will talk to my mechanic tomorrow, but this is such an unusual thing that
I wonder what he’ll say. And there is nobody to blame but me…
Per Stenius (http://www.engineering.ucsb.edu/~pstenius/)
Fax: (805) 893 3262 Email: per@quantum.ece.ucsb.edu
From: Ivan isk00@visi.net
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 1996 21:29:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Mileage and fuel-octane advise
Rob,
My 88 gets perhaps a little bit less mileage than yours. I have found
that it makes a really really big diference how one drives. With my
foot in it alot, it will really use gas. I burn 87 octane all the time.
She never complains and it doesn’t seem to make any difference when I
burn 93 octane.
I have used one shot of the special additive at the recommendation of
the Frank Garnett, Chief Mechanic and owner of Auto Engineering Ltd
here in Newport News. He swears by it. The same company makes an oil
additive also that contains some teflon/MgSO2 additives I think. I
don’t recall the brand but it comes in a purple container and is made
for aircraft too. Found the name, Bishops. Seems to work well and
apparently you don’t need it too often.
I had most ( never all) of the oil leaks fixed ( still leaks a little
brake fluid ) but she doesn’t seem to use much. Frank claims the oil
consumption is part of the design. Soft piston rings cause less wear on
the cylinders, but contribute to the oil consumption.
Ivan The meek shall inherit the Earth
The rest of us will head for the Stars
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 1996 20:17:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Lawrence Goes Racing in a Jag MkII
I race my car, 1982 XJ6 Series 3. I don’t know what the similarities are,
but all I did besides keep the car in perfect shape, alignment (stock with
maybe a twitch less camber), all bushings new or at least in good shape, and
all fluids topped up.
The one non-stock thing do is to remove the front license plate to improve
the cooling. It will stay 10 degrees cooler.
I realy don’t think there is much a Jaguar needs if it is in good condition.
Now I dont claim this is a perfect racing machine, or even a great one, BUT
in my rookie race I took the checkered flag in first place, ahead of 17 cars
including two Ferrari 308’s one of which didn’t even finish. This with a
car that was 13 years old and turned 100,000 miles on the track that day.
Admitedly, I have since not again equaled that performance.
Jim
“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil
From: BSherw@aol.com
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 1996 23:07:32 -0400
Subject: request for info on XJR-S models
I would appreciate any information relative to the TWR -based XJR-S, sold in
the early '80’s. What options did these cars have not found on the regular
XJS? I have a chance to purchase an '85 XJR-S, and don’t have much
information on this model derivative. Thanks in advance-
Brian Sherwood
From: “Sleeman, Chris” C.Sleeman@praxa.com.au
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 14:26:21 +1000
Subject: '76 XJ12 - Spark Plugs, heat ranges
All,
I was purchasing spark plugs for my '76 Daimler Double Six the other day
and came across something I thought was unusual.
In the Bosche catalogue, the plugs recommended for the Daimler were
W8DC, while the plugs recommended for the XJ12 were W7DC. (Both the same
model and fuel injected).
I am quite sure that there are no mechanical differences between the two
vehicles, so why are different plugs recommended? I have some
suggestions…
-
Error in the catalogue.
-
Different thermostats in the vehicles (will this affect the heat
range?). -
The wonderful Daimler grill acts differently in cooling the engine.
-
Daimler and Jaguar drivers have different driving habits.
Can anyone shed some light on this?
Regards,
Chris Sleeman
c.sleeman@praxa.com.au
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 09:00:22 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: Mileage and fuel-octane advise
- I get about 9-10mpg in city driving and 12-13mpg in highway driving. I
use 92-octane “premium” fuel and live in a very hot climate (Arizona). How
does this compare to your gas copnsumption?
We live in Paris, not very hot. On long “calm” travels we get between
20-22 mpg, no experience in city driving (we live outside of Paris) and
don’t even consider it driving it in Paris
Our car has not cat, 12.5:1 295HP, I always heard that catalysts cause
higher fuel consumption.
- Any of you using lower octane fuel (less than 92)? How does the car
drive with lower octane fuel? In this area the typical octane ratings are
87, 89, and 92.
Fuel ratings are different here but a quick calculation indicates
that we use about 93 octane fuel. When we used 90 by “accident” a few
weaks ago we had pinging under full throttle. But again, I think we have
different compression rations.
- Do any of you use the add-in type fuel injector-cleaner additives? If
so, what type and do you think they do any good? Are they bad?
STP. Our idle is a little rough (normal ?) but I could not notice any
difference. But I was told my a quite good mechanic that once in a while
I should use it. I guess it does not hurt (except your wallet)
- Last, I go through a quart of oil about every 1500 miles. This is
higher than what I am used to in american cars. The car does not “smoke” at
any time, does not leak engine oil (it does leak other fluids!!!), and, even
when the oil level is low, the oil on the dipstick is relatively “clear” and
not black. I replace the oil filter and the oil every 3,000 miles
religiously. Is the oil consumption typical or is it an indication of
something out of whack?
I have a leak on the front oil seal (which I will replace) so yes it uses
some oil, I think about 1 ltr 3000k. I chane oil/filter every 2000 miles
(even 1500 in wintertime), but we often use the car for short travel
-
- Matthias
From: Dennis Murphy elgparts@xnet.com
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 08:25:38 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: oil capacity 3.4L
Can anyone tell me the oil pan capacity of a 3.4L XK engine (including
filter). The sources I have found disagree. I have seen both 18 and 15
pints. I think this is 9 or 7 1/2 quarts.
Thanks
L J Haithcock
S830794DN
XK-150S OTS
I believe it varies from model to model, and maybe year to year. The manual
for my 120 shows 28 pints US (14 quarts), but I have the deep, finned
aluminum oil pan that was later replaced.
Dennis Murphy
Geneva, IL
1952 XK120
1990 XJ-S
From: hdrsons@iamerica.net (Hal Rogers)
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 08:36:51 -0600
Subject: Re: E-Type Exhaust leak
At 05:05 PM 7/13/96 EDT, Ed Scripps wrote:
I’m having some trouble closing an exhaust leak and I’m looking for a little
advice.Recently I replaced the pipes that go from the muffler to the resonators on a
series I 4.2 E-type. I can’t seem to get rid of a couple of leaks where the
pieces come together. I’ve tightened the clamps till they nearly break yet
exhaust still shoots out between the pipes and the muffler.
Sounds as if the pipes do not mesh into eachother as far as the should. You
may have to seperate the pipes and to see the marks on them to determine how
deeply they are fitting into eachother. With that info you may have to
expand one of the pipes slightly to allow them to seat home. This type of
problem is not uncommon especially when replacing individual pipes as
opposed to complete same brand systems.
Regards,
Hal
Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
Import Auto Specialists
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax
Serving Auto Enthusiasts since 1959
From: Alan Akeister 100705.3012@CompuServe.COM
Date: 15 Jul 96 09:34:33 EDT
Subject: AJ-V8 Auto transmission for XK8
Here is the specification for the Five speed auto transmission:-
This information and pictures, are available in the Jagur Enthusiasts Club Magazine
as well as articles such as AJ6 cylinder head removal/refit, XJS rebuild, Xk120
restoration etc
Why not join the club NOW!!
INTELLEGENT FIVE-SPEED AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
The XK8 will also feature the first 5 speed auto transmission in a Jaguar.
The electronically controlled ZF transmission faetures a wide gear ratio spread
overdrive top gear and an advanced low-inertia torque
converter to match perfectly the engine’s power and torque
The converter features a slip controlled clutch to acheive a near locked condition
at low speeds in high gears, enhancing fuel economy and refinement.
A 32 bit intellegent transmission control modul determines exactly the right
gearshift point based on the driver demands and road conditions, enhancing vehicle
performance and driveability. Electronic shift energy management reduces engine
torque during gearshifts for seamless gearchanges
TRANNY SPECIFICATIONS
Type ZF 5HP24 5-speed automatic
Torque Converter type With slip controlled lock up clutch
Torque from 120 Nm to 300 Nm at 2,000 Revs/minute
Ratios 1st 3.57 to 1
2nd 2.20 to 1
3rd 1.51 to 1
4th 1.00 to 1
5th 0.80 to 1
Rev 4.10 to 1
Lubrication system Maintenance free
Weight 95 Kg with oil
Best Regards
Alan Akeister
From: Alan Akeister 100705.3012@CompuServe.COM
Date: 15 Jul 96 09:34:35 EDT
Subject: JAG AJV8 Engine Specification
For information,
For all of you who are not members of the Jaguar Enthusiasts Club, (WHY AREN’T YOU ???)
This was in the latest edition of the wonderful club magazine:
AJ-V8 ENGINE SPECIFICATION
No. of Cylinders 8
Configuration 90 degree V8
Capacity 3996cc
Bore 86mm
Stroke 86mm
Compression ratio 10.75 to 1
Piston area 464.7cm2
Fuel grade 95 RON Unleaded
Maximum power 294PS @ 6,100 RPM
Maximum Torque 393Nm @ 4,250 RPM
Cylinder Block Type Die cast aluminium(aluminum for our colonialist
readers :~})alloy block and headplate assembly
DIN 1725 alloy block with Nikasil-plated bores.
SAE J452 bedplate with cast iron bearing cap inserts
Cylinder head type Precision sand cast aluminium, LM25TF, fully heat
treated
Combustion Chamber Type Pentroof
Number of valves/cylinder Four
Valve operation Twin Overhead camshafts per bank; chain driven
hydraulically actuated two-position inlet cam VCP
system
Tappet Type Aluminium inverted bucket with top mounted shim
Tappet Clearances 0.20mm inlet
0.25mm exhaust
Camshafts Chilled cast iron
Number of camshaft bearings five
Crakshaft Spheriodal Graphite cast iron
No. of crankshaft bearings Main:-five, Big end:-eight
Connecting rods Powder sinter forged steel
Pistons Die cast aluminium alloy with fully floating gudgeon pins
Piston rings TOP:- barrel faced molybdenum plasma sprayed ring
SECOND:- Napier taper
BOTTOM:- Two piece spring assisted
Sump Type Die cast aluminium with windage tray
Lubrication Lobed rotor pump Full flow paper filter, 6.5 Litre
oil capacity thermostatically controlled oil cooler
Ignition NipponDenso (What, No Lucar, prince of darkness?)
EMS with on-plug coils
Firing Order 1,5,2,4,6,3,7,8
Spark plugs 14mm fine wire Platinum tip
Plug gap 1.0mm
Fuel injection NipponDenso EMS with sequentially driven side-feed
injectors
Inlet manifold Eight branch Polyamide 66 GF-35 manifold with central
plenum, integral fuel rail
Exhaust Gas recirculation NipponDenso EMS with stepper motor driven valve
Throttle control NipponDenso EMS with DC motor driven throttle and
integral back-up
Cooling system Sealed pressure 10.1 Litre capacity, enclosed
impeller, mechanical pump
Weight of engine 200 Kg
Jagur Cars Blurb
- The most efficient engine in its class, with the highest specific power (72.5 bhp/ltr)
and highest specific torque ay low engine speeds - Flexibility with a minimum 80% of peak torque between 140 and 6400 rpm
- lightest engine in its class
- Variable inlet cam phasing (VCP) system optimises valve timing, increasing
both low-speed torque & top-end power - Liner free cylinder bores for enhanced refinement, durability & reduced weight
- Plastic moulded air inlet manifold with integral fuel rails aids gas flow for
improved power and starting performance - stiffest powertrain in its class delivers excellent rfinement and durability
- The pantented prcision split-block cooling system acheives a very fast warm-up
less than 4 minutes in the simulated urban cycle, to reduce emmisions and fuel consumption - Thin wall exhaust manifolds and close-coupled catalytic converters are capable of
operating within 30 seconds of start up to further reduce emmissions - Platinum tipped spark plugs filled for life transmission and maintenance free drive
systems reduce servicing costs (Ho Ho Ho ROLF!!!) - All new, bespoke engine management system, incorporating two 16 bit microprocessors
with a memory capacity of 192 Kb and electronic throttle, meets world wide emmisions
legislations whilst maintaining excellent drivability
Auto tansmission to follow
Regards
Alan Akeister
From: “White, Dick” white@msgate.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 11:26:00 -0400
Subject: RE: Older saloon power steering slop
- Is the end-travel adjustment the culprit?
I doubt it.
- Is the “box” just very worn and needs replacing/rebuilding?
It’s possible but I would investigate other, cheaper things first. You
didn’t mention that you had replaced idler arms, or ball joints. These
can greatly affect steering and give you that ‘out of control’ feeling
(actually ‘out of control’ reality). Also, there is a steering idler
about 2 ft from the box which tends to wear out also. I would suspect
all of these before I replaced the steering box.
- Has some ham-fisted pseudo-mechanic been in there mucking things up?
Probably just father time and mother miles.
- All of the above?
Have any of you been in to the steering box on one of these cars? Or,
have any of you had/have this problem. Any and all advice is appreciated.
I really don’t want to pull that box apart if I don’t have to. It is
really a
mess of loose balls, rollers and stuff. I’m a very careful and “clean”
rebuilder but ANYBODY can accidentally drop a tray of little parts!
I rebuilt mine (Burnam) about three years ago because of a leak. I
found all the O-rings and the one seal locally for less than $10, but
none of these have anything to do with slop. I put the shims back in
exactly as they came out.
Yes, there really ARE a lot of loose balls, rollers, and stuff. They
don’t start out loose but quickly enter that state if you’re not
careful. You can actually replace the O-rings and seal without
disassembling the part with the recirculating balls but you have to be
careful. I wasn’t and had to get all those damn little balls back where
they belonged and vaseline only helps a little. We were living in a
rental house at the time while we were having a new house built and I
didn’t have a workshop or a garage. I did this job in my kitchen (Yes,
my wife really loves me). Several days after completing the job I
discovered a ball bearing in the living room carpet. Looked kinda
familiar. Got out the micrometer and it just happened to be the exact
same size as the ones used as recirculating balls. What a coincidence I
told myself. Do you suppose the previous renter performed the same job
in the kitchen as I did? As you might have guessed I took it apart
again and sure enough there was room for one more little ball.
Regards,
Dick White
Columbia, SC
'64 3.8 S-Type
'58 XK 150 FHC
From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 09:28:26 MDT
Subject: Re: 1987 XJ-S leather treatment
I really enjoyed reading your comments and experiences in re-dying
your leather seats. I am preparing to do this same thing on my 1976
XJ6C. THanks for sharing your experiences with us all.
On the subject of drying, you wrote:
step and I was fortunate that I live in Arizona where the air is super dry.
I thought all along that the dye had dried between coats. However, after
about two weeks of very hot and dry weather I came to realize that it had
taken that long for the lacquer to actually dry (this is based on the “feel”
of the finish to the touch). I suspect that if I had done this in a wetter
climate the dye would still be drying!!! My advice to anyone trying this in
other climates is that you actually allow one to two days between coats
and/or use heat lamps and fans to speed the drying process. Even then don’t
expect the dye to be completely dry for a while (it will feel just slightly
The engineer in me can’t resist analyzing this and I believe that
your conclusion is correct but reasoning is not. The dye dries by
evaporating the laquer thinner in the die. It migrates through the
dye to the air. The rate of evaporation is a function of the vapor
pressure of the thinner (hotter = higher) and the concentration of
thinner in the air. It is largely unrelated to the humidity since
the critical concentration gradient between the drying dye and the
air is with regards to thinner and not water. This is very similar
to our experiences painting cars. The type of reducer or thinner
that you use depends on the temperature of the ambient air. So,
living Arizona where it is hot is the critical part. Owners should
avoid redying in cold temperatures rather than high humidity. Good
air circulation would also be important (keep windows down).
Your point of drying time is a good one however and I would not have
thought of it otherwise.
Kind regards,
Jim Cantrell
76 XJ12C
76 XJ6C
66 Alpine 2.8L
From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 11:44:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Mileage and fuel-octane advise
- –IMA.Boundary.242544738
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Description: cc:Mail note part
In reply to Rob Weiss-Malik regarding XJ-Ss:
- I get about 12-13 mpg in city driving and 17-19 mpg in highway driving.
I use 89-octane (ron+mon)/2 “plus” fuel and live in Virginia. Mileage is
lower in the Winter when we get served “oxygenated fuel”. - The car runs fine on 89, which I believe was recommended for my '88.
Using 92 octane doesn’t affect anything but my wallet. - I use a fuel injector cleaner additive three or four times a year.
Usually the local discount auto parts chain’s “house brand”. I don’t know
if it helps, but the car runs great. Starts easily, idles smoothly, pulls
steadily when accelerating (albeit not as enthusiastically as one might
wish.) - I don’t add any oil between changes (3000 miles). The level barely
changes on the dipstick, certainly much less then 1/2 quart.
Rob W-M
85 XJ-S
- –IMA.Boundary.242544738–
From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 12:01:16 -0400
Subject: Re: 1987 XJ-S leather treatment
In a message dated 96-07-12 12:13:38 EDT, talberts@aero.odu.edu (Thomas
Alberts) writes:
the seat leather in my car is getting quite
hard compared to what it should be
I have used Lexol to soften the leather on my '87 XJS with far better results
than hide food. Also, the water based dye from Gerard coachworks works very
well indeed (including the vinyl).
Julian Mullaney
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #210
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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 16 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 211
'87 XJ-6 Shocks
Re: request for info on XJR-S models
Re: E-Type Exhaust leak
Re: XJ suspension mods
Re: Mileage and fuel-octane advise
Chrome (86 XJ-S)
'68 XKE FHC REAR BRAKES
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #210
Re: XJ6 starting problem and Relay Identification
Tools!
Early intake manifold
Re: Tools!
St. Louis Concours
Re: '68 XKE FHC REAR BRAKES
Re: Tools!
32-bit
1975 XJ6C
Re: Tools!
European Network of assistance
New Member
Series III XJ-6 Reupholstery
XJ6 overheating HELP!!!
From: justinb@Okway.okstate.edu (Justin Beightol)
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 12:02:55 -0500
Subject: '87 XJ-6 Shocks
Hey guys! I want to thank everyone for the help you have given me
with my car!
My next question relates to the shocks. What brand do you prefer on
your car? I was thinking along the lines of Monroe/Monroe Magnum, or
is it better to get back to the originals...?
Thanks,
Justin
From: TezFair@aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 13:47:00 -0400
Subject: Re: request for info on XJR-S models
<I would appreciate any information relative to the TWR -based XJR-S, sold in
the early '80’s. What options did these cars have not found on the regular
XJS? I have a chance to purchase an '85 XJR-S, and don’t have much
information on this model derivative. Thanks in advance-
Brian Sherwood>
The basic difference of the XJR-S over a standard XJS was the 6.0L V12
engine, sports steering and suspension, and odd sized wheels. Oh and a fancy
rear quarter light!!. Other than that its much the same.
I remember building them years ago, doesn’t time fly when your having fun!!
Terry Fairbrother
From: Patrick Krejcik pkr@SLAC.Stanford.EDU
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 10:55:14 -0700
Subject: Re: E-Type Exhaust leak
Ed Scripps wrote:
I’m having some trouble closing an exhaust leak and I’m looking for a >little advice.
Recently I replaced the pipes that go from the muffler to the >resonators on a series I 4.2 E-type. I can’t seem to get rid of a >couple of leaks where the pieces come together. I’ve tightened the >clamps till they nearly break yet exhaust still shoots out between the >pipes and the muffler.
Ed,
there is a muffler sealing compound you can buy at any auto store
(Permatex in the USA). It is a grey, water based paste that comes in a
tube. You squeeze a liberal amount of this paste onto the pipes before
assembly. Partially tighten the clamps and wipe off excess paste with a
wet rag (important if you ever have to dissassemle it later). Run engine
until joint heats up and the compound dries and hardens, tighten clamps.
I also used stainless steel clamps.
Cheers, Patrick.
From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 13:57:44 -0400
Subject: Re: XJ suspension mods
In a message dated 96-07-12 01:48:48 EDT, r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU (robert
dingli) writes:
I noticed on an XJS that there is a bracket between the rear/rear shock
absorber lower mount and the outer wishbone pivot. What is the function of
this bracket (a tie down point perhaps??)
Perhaps this seemingly functionless bracket was a “fix” for high stresses, or
stress cracking??? I’ve often wondered what it was for.
Julian Mullaney (XJS)
From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 14:14:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Mileage and fuel-octane advise
- I get about 9-10mpg in city driving and 12-13mpg in highway driving. I
use 92-octane “premium” fuel and live in a very hot climate (Arizona). How
does this compare to your gas copnsumption?
Mine gets 18-19mpg highway and say 16-17 combined. It runs well on 89
octane when everything is adjusted properly. Seems to get a little better
mileage on 92-93 octane though.
- Any of you using lower octane fuel (less than 92)? How does the car
drive with lower octane fuel? In this area the typical octane ratings are
87, 89, and 92.
See above. It used to run hot in summer before I got my radiator
redone. Then it pinged on anything but high octane.
- Last, I go through a quart of oil about every 1500 miles. This is
higher than what I am used to in american cars. The car does not “smoke” at
any time, does not leak engine oil (it does leak other fluids!!!), and, even
when the oil level is low, the oil on the dipstick is relatively “clear” and
not black. I replace the oil filter and the oil every 3,000 miles
religiously. Is the oil consumption typical or is it an indication of
something out of whack?
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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 16 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 212
Re: European Network of assistance
Re: mark II 3.8l
Re: Anyone in Boston?
XKE Overheating
Steering rack Bush replacement XJ6 III
RE: Tools!
Re: Tools!
RE: 32-bit
Vancouver Concours
Theoretical question
Toys
Lucas Wiper motors
New small Jag
Air conditioning repairs: '88 XJ40
Re: XKE Overheating
SeriesIII XJ6 Charging problems
She has run her last race…
Re: Toys
Re: Steering rack Bush replacement XJ6 III
Re: New small Jag
Re: She has run her last race…
XK8 Screen-Saver
Re: She has run her last race…
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 15:12:52 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: European Network of assistance
Jeffrey Gram has suggested that we compile a list of information, including
Jag-Lovers contact details and garages who offer a good service in our
areas. I would have enough space to hold the European related information,
but would need someone else to offer for the rest of the world.
Excellent idea. For people stranded near Paris, here is my home number
+ 33 1 3041 4865
A french automagzine also publishes a list like this and there is also
a list of hotels available in France which provide secure overnight
parking. If you have anything to publish, send me a mail. We have just
created the french section for the JEC and being the editor of a small
bulletin I’m always looking for interesting information
-
- Matthias
From: ifinlay@vossnet.co.uk (Ian Finlay)
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 15:57:23 +0100
Subject: Re: mark II 3.8l
The map light and headlamp flasher are on the same fuse. Does
the lamp flasher work? No? Check the fuse. My map light
doesn’t work - because it’s missing! More info next time …
Ian
On Jul 12, 1996 12:49:00, ‘Rolando.Arroyo@ncal.kaiperm.org’ wrote:
dear ian finlay and other jag lovers,
congratulations, i too just purchased my first mark ii .
it is a 1962 mark ii and has the reclining seats (definately a plus),
whire wheels,etc. The only draw back is no airconditioning, map light
vent fan and horn do not work. Any suggestions on repairing above or
adding airconditiong? The previous owner also upgraded the transmission
with an xj-6 transmission. What kind of gas milage should i be getting?
I drove 100 miles on 1/2 a tank.
From: ifinlay@vossnet.co.uk (Ian Finlay)
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 15:58:11 +0100
Subject: Re: Anyone in Boston?
Hi John,
I’m staying at the Dedham Hilton, and I’m here 'til Friday morning.
Give me a call at the hotel, or drop me an email with a number.
I can’t remember if you did so already or not, as my mail went
bang the other day …
Ian
On Jul 09, 1996 15:10:16, ‘lupienj@wal.hp.com (John Lupien)’ wrote:
I’m working in Boston(ish) next week - any Jag lovers care to meet for a
drink and a chin-wag?
And I’m picking up my “new” (to me) MKII!
Bwahahahahahahaha!!! (chuckle(
IanHi Ian,
Not actually in Boston proper, but I will be happy to buzz in and meet
another jag-lover. Let me know what dates and hotels, and I’ll get in
touch when you are here.–
John R. Lupien
lupienj@wal.hp.com
From: jschaible@attmail.com (John Schaible)
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 11:07:18 -0500
Subject: XKE Overheating
- Can anyone help regarding overheating of my 1971 SII XKE OTS? I purchased the car this spring and it has always run hot. The car basically runs at the high end of the normal heat range (i.e., up to the “L” of “Normal” on the temperature gauge), and then heat soaks after the ignition is turned off until the coolant reservoir overflows via the vent pipe.
To date, I have had a very competent Jaguar mechanic do the following measures with only a minor degree of success:
- Replaced thermostat (175* F)
- Chemically flushed cooling system and replaced with new coolant
- Replaced electric fan thermostatic switches
- Adjust timing
- New radiator cap (7 Lb.'s)
- Add “Water Wetter” to coolant to improve heat transfer
- Does the bonnet really have to be removed in order to pull out the radiator? Would placing the car on a lift approximately two feet off the ground allow for enough forward travel of the bonnet so that the radiator could be removed?
Regards – Jack Schaible
From: george@brooktree.com (george mykulowycz)
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 96 08:14:44 PDT
Subject: Steering rack Bush replacement XJ6 III
Hello everyone,
This past weekend I replaced the power steering rack bushes on my 87 XJ6 III with the polyurethane type. I was able to do this with the rack still mounted in the car. I have one question that I hope someone has the answer for me. As you disassemble the rack there are three places that the rack is bolted to the car. One on the passenger side and two on the drivers side. As you remove the assembly on the drivers side there is a u shaped bracket (actually the bracket is quite thin) that is sandwiched between the rack and the mounting to the frame. This u shaped bracket had one washer tack welded to it. I could not use it with the polyurethane kit because of the thickness of the washer. Does anyone know the purpose of this u shaped bracket? The engineer in me says the part is redundant, but there is usually there is a reason why the part exist. I needed to get the car roadworthy so I just put in washers supplied with the kit as to have no play in the rack and did not ins!
tall this u shaped bracket. I s
uppose I could remove the metal sleeve inside the polyurethane bush and file it down just a bit so it will fit inside the u shaped bracket. I would appreciate any comments and suggestion that anyone has about this. Thanks.
George Mykulowycz
87 XJ6 VDP
77 XJ6C
69 XKE Roadster
From: “Lauren E. Pratt” pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 96 09:37:44 PDT
Subject: RE: Tools!
Jorgen
In response to your question about Craftsman (Sears) tools,
I have some in my tool box that I have used for over 30 years.
I am not a full time mechanic but I have always done my own
auto repair. I would expect these tools to last another 30
years if they are not abused, that is do not use a screw driver
as a chisel or pry bar. Craftsman tools had a life time warranty
at one time, and may still do. They may not be the best tool on
the market,but they give good value for your money. About the
torque wrench, don’t try to skimp by with a el-cheapo, get one
that can be calibrated, money well spent.
Cheers Lauren
Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 7/16/96
Time: 9:37:44 AM
This message was sent by Chameleon
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 12:13:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Tools!
Mattias:
It’s funny the things you take for granted. If you are in the states and
want to purchase SAE hardware, you are better off not going to an auto parts
store. The best places are local hardware stores, which ususally carry bulk
packs of nuts and bolts (1/4 lb- 1 lb boxes). Also boat supply stores, which
carry bulk packages of stainless and bronze hardware.
Of course, Whitworth hardware is almost impossible to come by, wherever
you go…
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
At 08:45 AM 7/16/96 +0200, you wrote:
- SAE nuts/screws (I put together two full boxes coarse/fine thread at a auto store. When my bag came of the air craft it had a sticker HEAVY attached :-))
From: “Lauren E. Pratt” pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 96 10:04:55 PDT
Subject: RE: 32-bit
Matthias says he dose not like the 16 bit processor in the
XJ8. A 16 bit processor can address 65,536 points, or give
data to 0.00153 %, which is hundreds of times more accurate
than any of the sensors. So what is the requirement for anything
with a greater accuracy?
Cheers Lauren
Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 7/16/96
Time: 10:04:55 AM
This message was sent by Chameleon
From: Gregory Andrachuk MGB@UVVM.UVic.CA
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 96 09:30:45 PDT
Subject: Vancouver Concours
The JCNA sanctioned Heritage Concours takes place in Vancouver, British
Columbia, Canada, on the Weekend of August 16, 17, and 18, with the Concours
judging on Saturday the 17th. There is a full range of classes, including
DRIVERS and DISPLAY the cars in this class not being judged, and usually
some very interesting cars, in abeautiful location (Waterfront Park, North
Vancouver). So if you live anywhere in North America within driving distance,
plan to attend. I can provide more details for anyone interested.
Gregory Andrachuk,
Victoria, Canada
From: nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu (Nikolai Chitaev)
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 11:42:40 -0600
Subject: Theoretical question
Dear Jag-lovers.
Here comes the theoretical question about how ignition timing and let say
centrifugal and vacuum advance mechanisms would affect O2 sensor readings
over a wide range of rpm.
For instance, at 750 rpm the voltmeter at O2 sensor shows swing between
0.5-0.7 volt. However, what reading should be at 1200 rpm, 3000 rpm, and
4500 rpm, assuming that all the above mentioned mechanisms work perfect?
Should it be the same, or if changes, how?
Else, if ignition advances fail, would 02 reading serve as an indicator
that something is wrong with ignition advance, and if yes, how?
thanx in advance.
Nikolai A. Chitaev, PhD.
<<87`XJ6 4.2L, EFI, BRG>>
{nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu}
{http://128.252.119.253}
St.Louis, Missouri, USA
From: DavidZ333@aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 12:56:46 -0400
Subject: Toys
I would like to respectfully make a general announcement to all Jaguar lovers
and anyone else who will listen :
My Jaguar is not a toy.
Thank you. David davidz333@aol.com
From: Rob Westcott westcotr@belnet.bellevue.k12.wa.us
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 09:56:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Lucas Wiper motors
The windshield wiper moter in the MKII decided to retire, the unit was
fine but it needed a new armature. John Bullis at Classic Auto Electric
in Seattle Washington could have done the job at a very reasonable price
but needed a source for aramatures and field coils. Anyone know of a
source other than Lucas? they just want to sell complete motors (expensive).
I also want to reccomend him as a great source for help, quality
restoration and repair of Lucas problems. He can be reached at (206)283-5022
or E-mail at: JonBull@gnn.com
Rob Westcott
'63 MKII
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 12:03:51 -0500
Subject: New small Jag
I ran across the following in the USA Today of 7/15/06:
“SMALL JAGUAR EYED: Luxury automaker Jaguar is considering building a
smaller car to compete with the BMW 3-series and the Mercedes-Benz C-class,
says today’s Automotive News, a trade magazine. Its parent company, Ford
Motor, is redefining Jaguar with cars priced less than the current lineup,
which starts at $56,000”
Just thought I’s post the info.
Scott Phillips
'88 XJ40
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 12:03:52 -0500
Subject: Air conditioning repairs: '88 XJ40
I have decided to think about trying to replace the condensor on my '88 XJ40
on my own.
Any words of caution, and what would the BEST resource for a
do-it-yourself-er be??
TIA
Scott Phillips
'88 XJ40
From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 11:22:36 MDT
Subject: Re: XKE Overheating
Check to see if the radiator fins have started to debond from the
core. On my E-type, I noticed this by checking the fins in the four
corners of the radiator. Solder suffers from thermal fatigue and the
solder that bonds the fins to the core crack. Result is less heat
transfer. If you find the fins loose at the corners, it is time for
a new core. And if you buy a new core, purchase a good one. The
cheap cores have a higher lead content and a lower tin content with a
resulting lower fatigue life.
Kind regards,
Jim Cantrell
76 XJ12C
76 XJ6C
66 Alpine 2.8L
From: Harjit Singh harjit@kinkos.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 10:46:07 -0700
Subject: SeriesIII XJ6 Charging problems
Hi
I have an 84 XJ6 that’s been perplexing me. The charging system seems
to work on or off depending on its mood. Sometimes when I switch tanks
or use the heater/A/C fan the charging system would cut out. The
battery gauge would indicate no charge and it will like that until it drains
the battery. The irony is that the battery idiot light indicates that it is
charging. It does not light up. I checked the light and it is working. If I
leave the car overnight or for 6 hours or so, the charging system comes
back to life. Looks to me there is a short of some sort but where and
how.
I have replaced the Lucas alternator and checked all the connections and
wires and they are all in good order.
Does anyone out there ever experience such a dilemma or have any
suggestions. I am at wits end.
Harjit
Kinko’s Corporate MIS
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 12:55:11 -0500
Subject: She has run her last race…
In one fell swoop my wife solved all the XJ6s problems. No more
overheating, no more leaking, no more not starting. She has died perhaps
never to be resurected.
At 9:40 this morning while negotiating a left ture (not much real
negotiation here. The othe car refused to budge) she was hit on the
passanger side at the front wheel and sliding back to include both doors.
The front wheel is tucked under (bad sign?) the windshield is popped out and
the LEFT front door is binding ('nother bad sign?). The first pro to look at
it said at least three grand. Since the book value is 5.5 grand I guess the
insurance co will total it… I will never be able to replace it for $5,500.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to convince the insurance co that it
is worth more with the brand new leather interior, impecable maintenance,
and an engine so good that it races competitively even though it has 115K
miles on it?
I guess I should be looking for one with a shot interior, blown engine and a
great body. Sounds like my wife…#8-)
Jim
===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"
John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: zavadsky@austin.ibm.com (Vlad Zavadsky)
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 13:00:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Toys
I would like to respectfully make a general announcement to all Jaguar lovers
and anyone else who will listen :My Jaguar is not a toy.
Thank you. David davidz333@aol.com
That’s unfortunate, David. My XJS is a toy. And it’s a cool toy!
Vlad
85 XJS
From: hdrsons@iamerica.net (Hal Rogers)
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 13:13:25 -0600
Subject: Re: Steering rack Bush replacement XJ6 III
At 08:14 AM 7/16/96 PDT, george mykulowycz wrote:
Hello everyone,
This past weekend I replaced the power steering rack bushes on my 87 XJ6
III with the polyurethane type. I was able to do this with the rack still
mounted in the car. I have one question that I hope someone has the answer
for me. As you disassemble the rack there are three places that the rack is
bolted to the car. One on the passenger side and two on the drivers side.
As you remove the assembly on the drivers side there is a u shaped bracket
(actually the bracket is quite thin) that is sandwiched between the rack and
the mounting to the frame. This u shaped bracket had one washer tack welded
to it. I could not use it with the polyurethane kit because of the
thickness of the washer. Does anyone know the purpose of this u shaped
bracket? The engineer in me says the part is redundant, but there is
usually there is a reason why the part exist. I needed to get the car
roadworthy so I just put in washers supplied with the kit as to have no play
in the rack and did not ins!
!
tall this u shaped bracket. I s
uppose I could remove the metal sleeve inside the polyurethane bush and
file it down just a bit so it will fit inside the u shaped bracket. I would
appreciate any comments and suggestion that anyone has about this. Thanks.
The thrust washer(s) C29406 are not required with the newer style upgrade
bushings. They were required as necessary to shim up distances when original
press in bushings are used.(CAC1634/CAC1635).
Regards,
Hal
Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
Import Auto Specialists
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax
Serving Auto Enthusiasts since 1959
From: zavadsky@austin.ibm.com (Vlad Zavadsky)
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 13:04:58 -0500
Subject: Re: New small Jag
A while ago I saw a picture Jag SUV. Well, actually it looked like
a Ford Explorer with a Jaguar badge. Does anyone know anything about it?
Vlad
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 14:31:26 -0400
Subject: Re: She has run her last race…
On Jul 16, 12:55pm, Jim Isbell wrote:
Subject: She has run her last race…
At 9:40 this morning while negotiating a left ture (not much real
negotiation here. The othe car refused to budge) she was hit on the
passanger side at the front wheel and sliding back to include both doors.
The front wheel is tucked under (bad sign?)
Well, I guess this means I will be sending thoughs front suspension A-arms to
you after all. Buy the car back from the inc. co. ($100 should do it?) and take
the $5500 and fix it!
Mark McChesney
The A-arms are boxed and ready to go, sorry I have no ft. fender & doors!
From: chatmans@ext.missouri.edu
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 96 13:30:27 cdt
Subject: XK8 Screen-Saver
mafa@easynet.co.uk asked about the XK8 screen-saver. It's available at
www.sirius.com/~ratloaf/saver_az/f-j.html. It is 1.3 MB in size and is
just OK in my opinion. I think that it goes something like slash &
growl, slash & growl, front view, rear view, Jag emblem, and sales
pitch. Steve Chatman
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 14:45:00 -0400
Subject: Re: She has run her last race…
On Jul 16, 12:55pm, Jim Isbell wrote:
Subject: She has run her last race…
I guess I should be looking for one with a shot interior, blown engine and a
great body.
I have a friend who has an S1 XJ6 in great cond. - a true Calf. car, no
rust, it has a lump motor.
Maybe your car and his could merge???
He wants to sell, I think he wants around $4-5000, and it needs a new
interior as it is vinyl. White w/ red interior.
Mark McChesney
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X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest
jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 17 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 213
Re: Tools!
RE: 32-bit
Re: Lucas Wiper motors
Boot and Bonnet opening
RE: She has run her last race…
Re: New small Jag
Re: XK8 Screen-Saver
re: Tools
Re: New small Jag
Relay locations
Re: Toys
Re: Anyone in Boston?
RE: Tools!
Re: XJ6 starting problem and Relay Identification
Re: Toys
Re: Toys
Re: Exhaust Leaks.
Re: XJ6 S1 - Ignition lock (HELP!)
Re: '76 XJ12 - Spark Plugs, heat ranges
Re: Steering rack Bush replacement XJ6 III
Re: Toys
ser. II xj6 air. cond.failure.
Re: catalytic converter debate
From: Michael Bain mbain@wolfenet.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 11:51:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Tools!
Mike> However, since Craftsman is a Sears house brand (so she didn’t
Mike> exactly find them in a local hardware store) the warranty
Mike> probably won’t help you much in Norway. On the other hand, you
Mike> aren’t really likely to break one anyway.
Of course, Jag-Lovers have lots of friends in the US that would help
exchange!
Michael Bain “When in Doubt, Gas It!!!” mbain@wolfenet.com
From: danlb@nando.net (Daniel Bowdoin)
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 15:03:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: RE: 32-bit
Matthias says he dose not like the 16 bit processor in the
XJ8. A 16 bit processor can address 65,536 points, or give
data to 0.00153 %, which is hundreds of times more accurate
than any of the sensors. So what is the requirement for anything
with a greater accuracy?
I thought Matthias was joking. But maybe I was seeing irony where it wasn’t
intended.
Regards–Dan Bowdoin
From: hdrsons@iamerica.net (Hal Rogers)
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 14:37:07 -0600
Subject: Re: Lucas Wiper motors
At 09:56 AM 7/16/96 -0700, Rob Westcott wrote:
The windshield wiper moter in the MKII decided to retire, the unit was
fine but it needed a new armature. John Bullis at Classic Auto Electric
in Seattle Washington could have done the job at a very reasonable price
but needed a source for aramatures and field coils. Anyone know of a
source other than Lucas? they just want to sell complete motors (expensive).
I also want to reccomend him as a great source for help, quality
restoration and repair of Lucas problems. He can be reached at (206)283-5022
or E-mail at: JonBull@gnn.comRob Westcott
'63 MKII
I believe the part numbers from Lucas were originally:
743929 wiper armature
54713957 field coil
729367 brush set
I will check my inventory later today…does anyone else have the parts on
the net?
Regards,
Hal
Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
Import Auto Specialists
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax
Serving Auto Enthusiasts since 1959
From: “MarrioSD” marriosd@ccmail.apldbio.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 96 12:33:00 PDT
Subject: Boot and Bonnet opening
Hi
A quick introduction, then a question.
I’m a Brit living in California, been here about 2 years with my wife and 2
kids. We live in a town called Livermore about 1 hour from San Francisco.
Being British I have a tendency to buy any interesting British cars that I see.
It will take years of therapy to get over this shock of finding old British cars
that are totally rust free.
I’m now on my third car, the first was a 74 TR6 which is now restored and my
daily driver in the winter! the second is a 71 MK II interceptor awaiting
restoration and the third and hence this letter is a 65 ‘S’ type Jaguar.
The jaguar has a good body, wire wheels, AC, and half ways reasonable paint, the
engine spins on the starter but hasn’t run in a number of years.
the inside is rubbish, the head lining is hanging down (whatever is between the
roof and the cloth has come unstuck) The seats have been retrimmed in Vinyl and
the wood on the dash top has disintegrated.
Question. How can I open the boot, the key appears to fit the hole but won’t
turn fully, I don’t even know if it is the correct key, any hints on how to open
it without damage.
Thanking you in advance and looking forward to be an active member of the group.
regards
Steve Marriott.
P.S. Yes Mike Trace the same Steve Marriott you caught up with after years
through the Jensen eMail group.
From: “White, Dick” white@msgate.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 16:31:00 -0400
Subject: RE: She has run her last race…
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to convince the insurance co that it
is worth more with the brand new leather interior, impecable maintenance,
and an engine so good that it races competitively even though it has 115K
miles on it?
Jim,
I successfully increased the value of my 3.8 S-Type by taking it to an
appraiser, getting a letter signed, and taking the letter to my
insurance agent. They put the letter on file and upped the value of my
policy. Of course this was done prior to having an accident :-).
Perhaps you could convince an appraiser to judge it on an ‘as if’
basis… ‘as if’ it hadn’t been hit.
Regards and good luck,
Dick White
Columbia, SC
'64 3.8 S-Type
'58 XK 150 FHC
From: TezFair@aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 17:07:10 -0400
Subject: Re: New small Jag
In a message dated 16/07/96 19:03:27, you write:
I ran across the following in the USA Today of 7/15/06:
“SMALL JAGUAR EYED: Luxury automaker Jaguar is considering building a
smaller car to compete with the BMW 3-series and the Mercedes-Benz C-class,
says today’s Automotive News, a trade magazine. Its parent company, Ford
Motor, is redefining Jaguar with cars priced less than the current lineup,
which starts at $56,000”
Its called the X200, and will be made in 1988.
Terry F.
From: TezFair@aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 17:11:47 -0400
Subject: Re: XK8 Screen-Saver
The XK8 screen saver has been available on my site since the company released
it!!
Once again, to those who have forgot, the 1 off convertable saloon the
Daimler Corsica can be seen on my Ford web
page…http://members.aol.com/tezfair/ford.html, and follow the gallery
links. I understand that Nick has been having trouble accessing my various
sites, If you also have problems, please let me know
Terry F.
From: Ryan Border rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 14:28:31 -0700
Subject: re: Tools
As others have pointed out, the real value to Craftsman tools is the
nationwide, now questions, lifetime warranty. Their ads pretty much invite
you to abuse the tools: my favorite example is when they tow a race truck
out of a ditch by wedging a spanner in the bumper and yanking the truck out
with a towing strap tied to it.
I’ve never had a problem with that guarantee. It’s a good
thing too- as I’ve broken my fair share of them:
o Scredrivers: all of them at least once. Most often by using a
big Crescent wrench on the handle to increase the torque applied.
Have broken (stripped) a few Phillips ones with ‘normal’ use.
o Ratchets: though not without use of a cheater bar… or a hammer
to create my own ‘impact wrench’.
o Sockets: mushroomed the end drifting things with them. Fractured
one thin-wall with a step-down and an air impact wrench.
With the exception of a couple of the screwdrivers the tools were all
clearly broken by abuse rather than use. But, that’s what I paid
the extra money for :-). Only once did I have someone question
how I broke the tool, and I told him that I tried to tow a race
truck out of a ditch with it. Nothing further was made of it… I think
he was just curious and didn’t get the joke. I hear ratchets are now
often “repaired” rather than replaced, and as others have noted they
aren’t the best, having a pretty coarse ratchet to them.
IMNSO:
The spanners are good (excellent actually) quality, the screwdrivers
aren’t as good as they used to be (much easier to break), the sockets
are decent, and the ratchets are OK. I’m very happy with my Craftsman
torque wrench. If I didn’t have the nationwide guarantee to rely
on, I’d be inclined to price shop before plunking down the money for
Craftsman… pehaps looking at the Husky tools at Home Dope, or the
tools now sold at Walmart.
Ryan.
From: TezFair@aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 17:59:12 -0400
Subject: Re: New small Jag
oops silly typo, X200 in 1998!!
TF
From: scoleman@pcl.net (Steve Coleman)
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 17:32:32 -0500
Subject: Relay locations
I need some help locating some relays. I have a 1987 XJ6 SIII. The
delay for the courtesy lights does not work, probably disabled or
removed by whoever installed the alarm system. In addition, the heated
rear window demister doesn’t work. The service manual has diagrams
which indicate relay locations but it seems to be talking about RHD cars
and the difference does not appear to be a simple right-left
transposition. If anyone knows the locations (and appearances) of these
relays the help would be greatly appreciated.
Steve Coleman
1987 XJ6 SIII
1989 XJ40
From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 17:14:23 +0700
Subject: Re: Toys
Overcoming denial is the first and most difficult step…
I would like to respectfully make a general announcement to all Jaguar lovers
and anyone else who will listen :My Jaguar is not a toy.
Thank you. David davidz333@aol.com
G. W. Price & Company, Ltd
Probabilistic Record Linkage Services
Consultants in research, information management
and program evaluation
gprice@rt66.com
***Free answers to emailed PC questions***
From: ifinlay@vossnet.co.uk (Ian Finlay)
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 23:39:05 +0100
Subject: Re: Anyone in Boston?
Hi John,
I’m staying at the Dedham Hilton, and I’m here 'til Friday morning.
Give me a call at the hotel, or drop me an email with a number.
I can’t remember if you did so already or not, as my mail went
bang the other day …
Ian
On Jul 09, 1996 15:10:16, ‘lupienj@wal.hp.com (John Lupien)’ wrote:
I’m working in Boston(ish) next week - any Jag lovers care to meet for a
drink and a chin-wag?
And I’m picking up my “new” (to me) MKII!
Bwahahahahahahaha!!! (chuckle(
IanHi Ian,
Not actually in Boston proper, but I will be happy to buzz in and meet
another jag-lover. Let me know what dates and hotels, and I’ll get in
touch when you are here.–
John R. Lupien
lupienj@wal.hp.com
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 18:45:01 -0500
Subject: RE: Tools!
I have a craftsman rachet that I bought when I was 18 years old. I am now
turning 60 next month. This 1/2" ratchet handle has been used to hammer all
sorts of things and has the nicks to prove it. I have turned otherwise un
turnable nuts with a 4 foot piece of “cheater” pipe on the handle. It still
works perfectly 40 years later. Many of the craftsman tools in my box have
been there since that day when I was 18 and about to get married. I figured
the money would run out soon after marrige so I spent it first. The marrige
has lasted, and so have the Craftsman tools. The only Craftsman tools that
I dont still have were either lost or stolen.
Jim
“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 17 Jul 96 12:44:34
Subject: Re: XJ6 starting problem and Relay Identification
Starting with the assumption that the S3 wiring is sufficiently similar to S2,
the right-most relay is the one that switches the starter motor and ballast
resistor. On my S2 XJ12, I had exactly the problem you describe and found that
it was due to the heavy white+red wire having a slack female spade connector on
it that made bad contact with the spade on the relay. I tightened this
connector up with a pair of pliers and haven’t had any trouble since (2yrs).
Personally, I’ve found that the best thing you can do to enhance the
reliability of any oldish Jaguar is to go through all accessisble connectors,
tighten up all the female spades and clean out all the “Lucars” with Q-tips and
acetone. Some of the female “Lucars” go slack, too. The worst one on both my
XJs has been the main headlight power connector in the bundle above and forward
of the left wheel arch; it’s two male “Lucars” stuck into an intermediate tube
and when it has bad contact, the current causes enough heating to melt the
insulation. I’ve replaced it with a modern spade connector pair (yellow code)
on both cars and experienced no further trouble.
Incidentally, if your gearbox safety switch or its wiring goes belly-up, that
white+red wire is what you use as a get-you-home to start the engine (first
making sure the gear lever is in P and switching on the ignition…). Just pull
the connector off the relay and touch it to the large (can’t miss it) brass
screw terminal (battery +) on the firewall about a foot down and slightly
outboard to operate the starter.
- -Jan
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 22:17:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Toys
David:
Each year, my firm sponsors a golf tournament for clients. This year, I
drove the Jag to the course. Afternoon and evening were spent taking clients
for joy rides! Everyone wanted a ride: just like an amusement park. A
photographer with a polaroid sent each rider home with a Jag-picture…and
every face was smiling…
At the end of the evening, the pretty red head in marketing asked for a ride
home in her ‘dream car’…
Just how do you define ‘toy’?
Mike Frank
1969 E-type 2+2
At 12:56 PM 7/16/96 -0400, you wrote:
I would like to respectfully make a general announcement to all Jaguar lovers
and anyone else who will listen :My Jaguar is not a toy.
Thank you. David davidz333@aol.com
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 22:17:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Toys
David:
Each year, my firm sponsors a golf tournament for clients. This year, I
drove the Jag to the course. Afternoon and evening were spent taking clients
for joy rides! Everyone wanted a ride: just like an amusement park. A
photographer with a polaroid sent each rider home with a Jag-picture…and
every face was smiling…
At the end of the evening, the pretty red head in marketing asked for a ride
home in her ‘dream car’…
Just how do you define ‘toy’?
Mike Frank
1969 E-type 2+2
At 12:56 PM 7/16/96 -0400, you wrote:
I would like to respectfully make a general announcement to all Jaguar lovers
and anyone else who will listen :My Jaguar is not a toy.
Thank you. David davidz333@aol.com
From: Don Tracey dont@echuca.net.au
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 00:45:45 +1100
Subject: Re: Exhaust Leaks.
o>
Ed Scripps wrote:
I’m having some trouble closing an exhaust leak and I’m looking for a
little advice.
Ed,
there is a muffler sealing compound you can buy at any auto store
(Permatex in the USA). It is a grey, water based paste that comes in a
tube.
I find that silicon sealant does the job ,just the ordinary if
you are real fussy hi temp silicon ,I only use the hi temp up nearer the
motor. Down the back away from the motor(and heat) the common type does
the job just as well.
Don Tracey
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 17 Jul 96 13:58:44
Subject: Re: XJ6 S1 - Ignition lock (HELP!)
That bolt is supposed to snap on installation, Per - it’s a security thing, to
stop evildoers unscrewing the steering lock and hot-wiring your car. It’s a bit
silly, though, because I’ve found the recommended method to get the bolts out
(I’ve done it three times, once to replace a broken lock and twice to swap the
good lock to another car) both quick and simple. Use a centre punch to make an
indent near the edge of the round bolt head, then tap in an anti-clockwise
direction to unscrew the bolt.
As to why the lock isn’t working, you’ll have to take it apart to find out.
There’s a very small Allen screw in the side of the barrel; if you unscrew
that, you can pull out the switch portion to work on the actual lock part with
oil and elbow grease. It’s not safe to do this with the switch still in, if it
turns out the blockage is in the switch. The reason is that the part of the
lock that drives the switch consists of two very thin and fragile prongs of
cast zinc. I had to replace my lock because the switch action got heavy due to
wear and those %$%#@*& prongs snapped off. I was informed that this part can’t
be replaced and the complete steering lock assembly has to be replaced…
Good luck!
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 17 Jul 96 14:06:10
Subject: Re: '76 XJ12 - Spark Plugs, heat ranges
I’d say the perception in the Bosh marketing department is that Jaguar drivers
are managing directors in a hurry and Daimler drivers are chauffeurs to elderly
dowagers… :3+)
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 17 Jul 96 14:23:09
Subject: Re: Steering rack Bush replacement XJ6 III
That u-shaped thingy is a compound shim and is intended to restrict movement of
the standard bushes. You don’t need it with the urethane bushes, so all is well.
-
- Jan
From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 23:36:38 +0100
Subject: Re: Toys
Gentlemen,
re: the above thread.
My jaguar is not only not a toy, it’s not
even a jaguar. It’s a fifteen story apartment
building, which explains the high expenditures…
er…sorry, I thought I was talking to Revenue
Canada (IRS for you down south!)
grins,
Charles Daly
From: B0R0@ozemail.com.au
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 15:47:28 +1000 (EST)
Subject: ser. II xj6 air. cond.failure.
Well i managed to get my wire wheel built to spec. BUT as i pulled up into the
guys driveway there was smoke coming from underneath my bonnet. it turned out
that the air. cond. belt was melting on the comp. totally stuffed.
Question. Can i replace the unit with a unit off another car.
ie ford falcon EA.
What else would there have to be done to make it compatable.
ie. hoses etc.
any other advice on exchanging units, and i do know that i will have to make up
new mounting brakets etc.
thanx in advance.
MIk
From: B0R0@ozemail.com.au
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 15:47:54 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: catalytic converter debate
If you want to see more indepth information about catalytic convertors, then
i suggest you pay a visit to nexus magazine on the net. (not sure of the address
) i printed off a copy of what they had to say and it made some damn interesting
reading. thats NEXUS.
CYA
MIK
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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 17 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 214
Re: Toys
leather dye/ 16bit
re:Toys
First long trip XJ6 II
RE: Air conditioning repairs: '88 XJ40
RE: First long trip XJ6 II
Re: re:Toys
Re: First long trip XJ6 II
RE: re:Toys
Re: Toys
Re: SeriesIII XJ6 Charging problems
JEC Subscriptions
Article in Jaguar World
Re: 87 VDP Climate Control
XJ6 Ser. I ignition lock - thanks!
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #213
Re: Tools!
Re: First long trip XJ6 II
RE: 32-bit
Re: XJ6 overheating HELP!!!
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 17 Jul 96 16:50:42
Subject: Re: Toys
Toy [n]
see → Jaguar
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 08:01:11 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: leather dye/ 16bit
Since a few months I tried to order a redye kit from Gerard Coachworks,
they make the CT600 which was recommended by several people. I had
first written to them in April and they told me that they have problems
with one of their suppliers. I called yesterday and it seems not clear
if they will continue to produce CT600 again. The guy was extremly helpfull
and he proposed even to drop me a note which other dye products work well.
Does anyone have experience with other dye products then the Connolly ?
The thing I liked from the description of CT600 is the fact that you
can even use it on plastic parts.
If anyone has a stock enough do redye a XJ-S in magnolia, I would be
interested.
I thought Matthias was joking. But maybe I was seeing irony where it wasn’t
intended.
Of course I was joking! I’m amazed that all of a sudden stuff like this
shows up in marketing materials. ECU’s have uPs since a long time, but
this was the first time I saw it announced. A shift from horse power and
torque to Mbytes and MIPS ? (<-- joke)
-
- Matthias
From: “Arnold, Dr Dave” davearno@sandton.senchem.co.za
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 96 07:59:00 PDT
Subject: re:Toys
David said
"I would like to respectfully make a general announcement to all Jaguar
lovers
and anyone else who will listen :
My Jaguar is not a toy.
Thank you. David "
Well, really, get real! Let me tell you how it is on the real side. A
toy is a good which has a perceived value greater than the market value,
and where cost/benefit analysis is irrelevant. Cost of purchase is not a
major consideration. Emotional content is high. A toy generates a
strong sense of ownership, a sense of pride. Ergo, if you don’t have a
toy, why do you need to (emotionally) tell us it’s not one? Is your
jaguar a means of getting from A to B ? It’s an extension to your
personality. Are your clothes just to cover you? Your shoes to stop
your feet wearing out? Your haircut? Your bedroom? Your sex life?
Jaguars are the epitome of romance. Totally impractical as a means of
transport. Jags are never used as a source of income…Jag taxis,
ldv’s, Jag minibuses??? No, just Jag-lovers! You are what you eat,
wear and drive. And say.
Well, got a bit wound up there, but really a Jaguar fits all the criteria
for a toy, and that’s a fact.
Dave.
80 XJ6 II
Toys’R’ours
From: “Arnold, Dr Dave” davearno@sandton.senchem.co.za
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 96 08:05:00 PDT
Subject: First long trip XJ6 II
My 1980 XJ6 ser II is ready for its first long trip (since I got it, that
is). I plan to go from Johannesburg to Cape Town and back, a road
distance of 1000 miles each way. Assuming that there are very few
garages, if any, that carry Jaguar spares on the entire route, what
spares would you recommend I take?. My car came with nothing in the way
of tools or spares, so I am starting from scratch. Come on, you
long-haul experts, give me and our other readers the benefit of your
invaluable experience ! You may find a place in heaven (where everyone
drives a Jaguar and St. Lucas runs a shop) if you can prevent my wife
catching a plane the next time.
Dave
Toys’R’ours
From: Graham Watson grahamw@microsoft.com
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 00:00:46 -0700
Subject: RE: Air conditioning repairs: '88 XJ40
Take it to a air-cond engineer, get him to bleed the gas out of it. If
you really want to do it yourself, replace the condenser and the dryer
bottle, then take it back to him to recharge the system.
Graham Watson
Managing Consultant (Finance)
Microsoft Consulting Services (UK)
01734-270431
Original Message-----
From: Scott W. Phillips [SMTP:phillips@mn.uswest.net]
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 1996 6:04 PM
To: Jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Air conditioning repairs: '88 XJ40
I have decided to think about trying to replace the condensor on my '88
XJ40
on my own.
Any words of caution, and what would the BEST resource for a
do-it-yourself-er be??
TIA
Scott Phillips
'88 XJ40
From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 09:50 +0200
Subject: RE: First long trip XJ6 II
I would take ignition parts (condenser, points, if your car still has them,=20=
spare plugs, distributor cap and rotor), coolant hoses, a can of water, a=20
length of electric wire, a length of steel wire, an electric meter or a test=20=
lamp, electrical and other tapes, spare belts, a small oil can or a spray=20
bottle of WD40, and the quantity of engine oil that you think you would=20
need. All this on top of some handtools, spanners, screwdrivers and pliers.=20=
It sounds like a lot but the boot is big. You will find that you need=20
something else probably but it gives a good feeling having these things on=20
board. Don’t forget that farms usually have the necessary items (tools for=20
instance) in stock for many problems with cars (I hesitate to say tractors=20
as I don’t want to give the impression to compare your Jaguar with a=20
tractor;-)
Tell us of your experiences afterwards.
Frans.
My 1980 XJ6 ser II is ready for its first long trip (since I got it, that=20=
is). I plan to go from Johannesburg to Cape Town and back, a road
distance of 1000 miles each way. Assuming that there are very few
garages, if any, that carry Jaguar spares on the entire route, what
spares would you recommend I take?. My car came with nothing in the way=20
of tools or spares, so I am starting from scratch.
Dave
Toys’R’ours=20
From: Mark Stiles ittmjs@staffs.ac.uk
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 09:18:20 +0100
Subject: Re: re:Toys
Whilst I would agree that a Jag may well be a “toy” in some senses, I
must take exception to:
Totally impractical as a means of
transport.
Perfectly practical for the sort of motoring I do: Going to work,
travel between campuses, shopping(BIG boot), visiting friends relatives
-
- it goes along the road, stops, transports people???
Jags are never used as a source of income…Jag taxis,
ldv’s, Jag minibuses???
Jags are VERY widely used as Wedding cars in the UK - and it ain’t
free!!
Mark
Mark Stiles
90 Daimler 4.0
From: Cosmo simond@informix.com
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 09:29:33 +0100
Subject: Re: First long trip XJ6 II
Arnold, Dr Dave wrote:
My 1980 XJ6 ser II is ready for its first long trip (since I got it, that
is). I plan to go from Johannesburg to Cape Town and back, a road
distance of 1000 miles each way. Assuming that there are very few
garages, if any, that carry Jaguar spares on the entire route, what
spares would you recommend I take?. My car came with nothing in the way
of tools or spares, so I am starting from scratch. Come on, you
long-haul experts, give me and our other readers the benefit of your
invaluable experience ! You may find a place in heaven (where everyone
drives a Jaguar and St. Lucas runs a shop) if you can prevent my wife
catching a plane the next time.
Previous experience with a Series I touring Scotland tought me
that water hoses are a good thing to carry. We didn’t, but were
very lucky to find that the tiny garage we managed to limp to
in a remote part of the highlands had a very handy mechanic who
replaced the blown hose by cutting down a shaped hose from some
other car. You may not be so lucky. Fan belts would also be
appropriate.
I’d also be inclined to take electrical patching stuff like wire
(various gauges), fuses, spade & bullet connectors, insulating tape,
pliers, wire strippers, small voltmeter etc.
Cosmo
From: “Arnold, Dr Dave” davearno@sandton.senchem.co.za
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 96 10:32:00 PDT
Subject: RE: re:Toys
My point exactly. Weddings are romantic and emotional, not business,
ergo a Jag. I also use my toy on a daily basis, but this is no criterion
since I would play with all my other toys as often as possible too. :-))
Dave
Toys’R’ours
From: Mark Stiles[SMTP:ittmjs@staffs.ac.uk]
Sent: Wednesday, July 17, 1996 09:18
To: Arnold, Dr Dave
Cc: ‘DavidZ333@aol.com’; ‘jag-lovers@sn.no’
Subject: Re: re:Toys
Whilst I would agree that a Jag may well be a “toy” in some senses, I
must take exception to:
Totally impractical as a means of
transport.
Perfectly practical for the sort of motoring I do: Going to work,
travel between campuses, shopping(BIG boot), visiting friends relatives
- it goes along the road, stops, transports people???
Jags are never used as a source of income…Jag taxis,
ldv’s, Jag minibuses???
Jags are VERY widely used as Wedding cars in the UK - and it ain’t
free!!
Mark
Mark Stiles
90 Daimler 4.0
From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 03:34:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Toys
Uh, O.K…
Did I miss something here?
MikeC
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Toys
Author: DavidZ333@aol.com at INTERNET
Date: 07/16/96 12:56 PM
I would like to respectfully make a general announcement to all Jaguar lovers
and anyone else who will listen :
My Jaguar is not a toy.
Thank you. David davidz333@aol.com
From: “Robert Johnson, D.Sc.” bjomejag@sover.net
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 07:34:05 -0500
Subject: Re: SeriesIII XJ6 Charging problems
Harjit Singh wrote:
Hi
I have an 84 XJ6 that’s been perplexing me. The charging system seems
to work on or off depending on its mood. Sometimes when I switch tanks
or use the heater/A/C fan the charging system would cut out. The
battery gauge would indicate no charge and it will like that until it drains
the battery. The irony is that the battery idiot light indicates that it is
charging. It does not light up. I checked the light and it is working. If I
leave the car overnight or for 6 hours or so, the charging system comes
back to life. Looks to me there is a short of some sort but where and
how.
I have replaced the Lucas alternator and checked all the connections and
wires and they are all in good order.
Does anyone out there ever experience such a dilemma or have any
suggestions. I am at wits end.Harjit
Kinko’s Corporate MIS
I would check out the ignition switch. If the switch does not provide
an earth path for the alternator field, it will result in draining of
the battery with no charge. I have seen this happen in several
instances. Often, wiggling the key and rotating slightly will bring
the ampere meter back on scale. When this condition exists the battery
should stay up. Hope this helps.
Bob
SS1, Mk1 etc
From: Alan Akeister 100705.3012@CompuServe.COM
Date: 17 Jul 96 08:36:07 EDT
Subject: JEC Subscriptions
Hi, all,
for all of you who want to join the Jagaur Enthusiasts Club,
If you are in the U.K., you can join by either sending your name & address
to: Jaguar Enthusiasts Club Ltd,
FREEPOST (BS-6705)
Patchway
Bristol
BS12 6BR,
or tel Graham Searle on 0117-969-8186.
or contact the JEC web site at : http://www.jec.org.uk/index2.htm
Best Regards
Alan Akeister
From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 14:41 +0200
Subject: Article in Jaguar World
Congrats John on your article in Jaguar World that I discovered just now.
After the idea of splitting up the jag-lovers list has been sinking in for a=20=
few months, I now believe that this probably is the way to go because the=20
number of mails per day becomes to big. It is no use saying that one can=20
delete the unwanted mails because I am curious enough to continue reading=20
the mails on “modern Jaguars” while my main interest lies with the “golden=20
oldies”. Reading all of them doesn’t leave much time to respond. The=20
splitting point, as far as I am concerned, should lie between E-types,=20
XJ-6’s series 1 and 2 on one hand and the XJ-S and XJ-6 series 3 on the=20
other hand, that is to say before and after electronic ignition and petrol=20
injection.
Regards, Frans.
From: Denny Alford alforkd@occ-uky.campus.mci.net
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 08:08:47 -0500
Subject: Re: 87 VDP Climate Control
From: Owens, Adam J.[SMTP:uscuc8hc@ibmmail.com]
Sent: 11 July 1996 15:29
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: 87 VDP Climate ControlDate: 1996-07-11 10:23
Priority:
Greetings all,
Posting this question for my cousin who recently aquired a 1987 Vanden
Plas Series III. The A/C system does not come on properly. When set for
cooling, the flappers do not open and hot air continues to blow through the
console vents and the side vents on the facia but not the large center vent.
Repeated switching of the blower speed switch eventually kicked on the
system and we started getting slightly cooled air out of all the vents
including the center. A local mechanic he uses checked the A/C system and
found it virtually empty - He then put in a pound or so of freon to check
for leaks and found none, he then evacuated the system until the reason for
it being empty could be found. The recent DPO had no idea and had not had
the system worked on. The compressor, thermal fuse etc seem to be fine - any
ideas on what could be keeping the system from switching to cool mode from
heating? Perhaps the cabin temp sensor?
TIA
A.J. Owens
I had the exact problem with my '83 XJ-6 III. The problem was (this sounds
long, but the solution is simple) that with time, the insulation on the
inside of the box with all the flappers, evaporators, etc. becomes
deteriorated. Condensation, on the outside of the box, runs down into
places where it was not intended to be. The source of my problem was that
same moisture getting into the servo-motor assembly, which in turn controls
most all the damper movements.
Have your friend take off the passenger side trim piece below and to the
left of the glove box. Study the black box (a pretty good size fiberglass
assembly) untill you recognize a smaller assembly directly below it. This
should be the “servo-motor assembly”. Try to blow out as much of the crud
(there may be a bunch of it) as possible with compressed air, then follow
with some WD-40. If you are lucky, it will come back to life with no
further effort.
It may pay to inspect as many of the small diameter vacuum hoses as you can
access, as a few of mine were split from age, and although functional, were
suspect as possible future problems, and replaced.
Best of luck!
Sincerely,
Denny Alford
From: per@quantum.ece.ucsb.edu (Per Stenius)
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 96 8:34:29 PDT
Subject: XJ6 Ser. I ignition lock - thanks!
Thanks to all who sent in their advice! The thing is now working. Turned out
that the correct thing to do is to drill out the old bolt (and, yes, the head
is supposed to snap - so that design works…;-), put new threads, and screw
in a new bolt. Getting the old bolt out any other way does not work, since the
bolt is so extremely thin (approx. 2mm). The tiny bolt itself is in a brass
part, that in turn threads into the steel of the steering column.
Incidentally, I now have a Jag (XJ6 SI) web page where I discuss all the
problems I have had, and what my (with the help from Jag-lovers!) solution was.
It can be accessed through the address below.
Per Stenius (http://www.engineering.ucsb.edu/~pstenius/)
Fax: (805) 893 3262 Email: per@quantum.ece.ucsb.edu
From: “Richard King” kingr@sabc.co.za
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 17:42:53 +0200
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #213
Matthias says he dose not like the 16 bit processor in the
XJ8. A 16 bit processor can address 65,536 points, or give
data to 0.00153 %, which is hundreds of times more accurate
than any of the sensors. So what is the requirement for
anything with a greater accuracy?
A recent article in one of the electronic magazines (ETI?) made
the claim that some of the newer engine control systems were fast
enough to optimise timing and fuel injection to account for
individual differences between cylinders - all in real-time!
I wonder if the theoretical limits of development of the otto cycle
engine are not already in sight? (Famous last words?)
Richard King
Johannesburg
South (blerry freezing!) Africa
From: “Richard King” kingr@sabc.co.za
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 17:59:55 +0200
Subject: Re: Tools!
From: jorgen@tvnorge.no (Jorgen Scheel)
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 01:29:24 +0100
Subject: Tools!
I need some help and tips from some of you in the states. I
<have some family thats coming to visit. I want them to buy me
some tools. I`m looking to buy a wrench set and a Torque
wrench. Is Craftsman any good? Its what she found in her local
hardware store. Here in metric land any good inch tool is
“special” and expensive…
Thanks!
Have you considered buying “METRINCH”? (…spelt wrong?)
Magnificent tools - work on the flats rather than the corners of the
nut - and work on BOTH metric and inch sizes!
I’m pretty sure they are US made - they cost the proverbial “arm and
a leg” here in Johannesburg - but would undoubtably last two
lifetimes…
Richard King
Johannesburg
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
'85 Alfa 33 x 2
'75 Peugeot 404
http://www.sabc.co.za/units/henley/optical/pvt/cars.htm
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
From: LLoyd 3030P@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 96 08:50:24 PDT
Subject: Re: First long trip XJ6 II
Stuff to carry on a trip
On a long road trip I always have a basic tool kit in the car; sockets, a couple of extensions; end wrenches, pliars, vice grips, duct tape, wire, screw drivers, the usual stuff. Wrap them up tightly so they don’t rattle or take up much space. include a fan belt which fits the water pump, perhaps one for the alternator if different. Of course, spare tire, jack, lug wrench. A spare set of points nad condencer, a length of wire, and a VOM is not a bad idea. Some spare fuses. If you’ve got one of those cars that the lights are on all the time, then you need to find out how to unplug or break the bulbs in case of an electrical failure. It’s much cheaper and safer to replace the bulbs than it is to be caught out in the middle of nowhere when you run your battery dead trying to make it to the next town after an electrical failure. I always carried a bag of candy and blankets in the car when I lived in the mountains. There are always streams or snow to drink. But on the desert also carry water (NOT alcohol). Hmmmm, perhaps on a Jag, an extra fuel pump, ehh? Oh, and a quarter for the phone… LLoyd -been there, done that, survived- From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 09:24:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: RE: 32-bit FWIW, there are lots of considerations in choosing the “right” microcontroller for a given application. If a given 16 bit (or even 8 bit) processor has the necessary processing bandwidth and appropriate set of peripherals (built in subsystems), no amount of additional speed or buswidth will have any useful effect. Sort of like, if a #6 machine screw is appropriate to an application, a 1/2" hardened bolt isn’t necessarily better. Hunt At 10:04 AM 7/16/96 PDT, Lauren E. Pratt wrote:
Matthias says he dose not like the 16 bit processor in the
XJ8. A 16 bit processor can address 65,536 points, or give
data to 0.00153 %, which is hundreds of times more accurate
than any of the sensors. So what is the requirement for anything
with a greater accuracy?Cheers Lauren
Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 7/16/96
Time: 10:04:55 AMThis message was sent by Chameleon
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 09:24:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: XJ6 overheating HELP!!!
Low temp in winter suggests thermostat stuck partially open, overheat in
summer stuck mostly closed. I imagine you could have this condition. Also,
the impeller on you water pump could be non-existant (I’ve had this, due to
corrosion), and the thermostat stuck slightly open.
Good luck!
Hunt
At 12:26 PM 7/16/96 -0700, Barrie Dawson wrote:
1985 4.2 Jaguar Sovereign auto with air/con purchased October 1995
I have had some overheating problems recently which I am having difficulty
curing.
About 4 weeks ago, during an unusual hot spell for UK, the engine
overheated full
scale on temp guage. Almost all the coolant vented out of the system via the
pressure cap release. Since then any journey greater than 5 miles were the
engine
has reached 90 degrees plus results in coolant venting. There is an auxillary
electirc fan but this never comes on, I have connected the fan to run
constantly but
no difference.Known fixes to date including repairs prior to overheating problem.
- Leaking core plugs replaced Feb 1995.
- Split radiator to thermostat hose replaced April 1995 during service.
- Replaced pressure cap July 1995 because system was failing to come up to
pressure, jaguar part, 15lbs pressure.- Auxillary fan switch, radiator mounted, replaced June 1996.
- Bottom radiator hose under power steering pump, chaffed, possible air
intake
replaced June 1996.There is a slight leak from the water pump, usually starts after refilling
a cold
engine no leak when engine running. It has been suggested that thermostat
may be
faulty, could this account for low coolant temp in the winter.I wait in hope of a saviour.
Barrie
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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 18 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 215
Re: Toys
RE: She has run her last race…
Toy taxi?
splitting the list
MKII 3.8 running report - it’s broken!
Re: Tools!
Toys
Re: leather dye/ 16bit
E-Type brakes
CPU power
Re: Toy taxi?
Re: ser. II xj6 air. cond.failure.
16 bit vs. 32 bit ECUs
CPU power
re: Re: ser. II xj6 air. cond.failure
re: Re: ser. II xj6 air. cond.failure
re: Re: ser. II xj6 air. cond.failure
re: Re: ser. II xj6 air. cond.failure
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 09:24:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Toys
This works for me!
Hunt
At 04:50 PM 7/17/96, Jan Wikstroem wrote:
Toy [n]
see → Jaguar
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 09:24:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: She has run her last race…
Jim-
I did this with my e. Added 50% to the insured value this way.
Hunt
At 04:31 PM 7/16/96 -0400, White, Dick wrote:
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to convince the insurance co that it
is worth more with the brand new leather interior, impecable maintenance,
and an engine so good that it races competitively even though it has 115K
miles on it?Jim,
I successfully increased the value of my 3.8 S-Type by taking it to an
appraiser, getting a letter signed, and taking the letter to my
insurance agent. They put the letter on file and upped the value of my
policy. Of course this was done prior to having an accident :-).
Perhaps you could convince an appraiser to judge it on an ‘as if’
basis… ‘as if’ it hadn’t been hit.Regards and good luck,
Dick White
Columbia, SC
'64 3.8 S-Type
'58 XK 150 FHC
From: bill@wmspear.com (Bill Spear)
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 08:36:32 -0900
Subject: Toy taxi?
Dr Dave" davearno@sandton.senchem.co.za
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 96 07:59:00 PDT
Dr. Dave said:
Jags are never used as a source of income…Jag taxis,
ldv’s, Jag minibuses???
Hate to burst your bubble, but I have been observing with a certain degree
of astonishmnent that one of our local cab companies is apparently
converting an older XJ6 of the “12 Monkeys” variety into a taxicab.
However, I will agree with you that you basic statement, that Jags are
never used as a source of income, will undoubtedly hold true in this
instance. Cheers, Bill
Bill Spear bill@wmspear.com
227 7th Street. Juneau, Alaska 99801
907/586-2209 v 907/586-6858 f
Talismen, amulets and charms for an uncertain world.
http://www.carmelnet.com/spearpins
“We did Nebraska in seven and a half minutes today. I think that’s the best
way do Nebraska.”
SR-71 pilot
From: bill@wmspear.com (Bill Spear)
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 08:44:22 -0900
Subject: splitting the list
From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 14:41 +0200
Frans wrote:
After the idea of splitting up the jag-lovers list has been sinking in for
a=20=
few months, I now believe that this probably is the way to go because the=20
number of mails per day becomes to big. It is no use saying that one can=20
delete the unwanted mails because I am curious enough to continue reading=20
the mails on “modern Jaguars” while my main interest lies with the "golden=20
oldies…
I would like to suggest that Frans subscribe to the digest, and at the same
time thank Nick or whomever has done the great work on the ‘table of
contents’ on the digest. I get one message a day or so and can scan through
it for things of interest right away. I was about to drop out too because
it was getting really time consuming no matter how interesting and
convivial, but now it takes only a few minutes. I don’t think I’m missing
anything on the digest am I? Regards, Bill
Bill Spear bill@wmspear.com
227 7th Street. Juneau, Alaska 99801
907/586-2209 v 907/586-6858 f
“…they’ve got to pull against the ebb, and it runs cruel off the point.”
Patrick O’Brian
Talismen, amulets and charms for an uncertain world.
http://www.carmelnet.com/spearpins
From: ifinlay@vossnet.co.uk (Ian Finlay)
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 18:58:41 +0100
Subject: MKII 3.8 running report - it’s broken!
Boohoohoo…
You may remember from my first report that I picked up my “new”
MKII on Tuesday last week. I happily blasted to and from work
all that week, somehow not quite managing to find a chance
to show off my new toy (another thread there …) to any friends
or my Mum, all of whom were primed to cheer and wave flags
and all of whom wanted a ride.
On arriving home Friday night I pulled into my driveway and,
as usual, started steering to full left lock to tuck the front
of the car where it always sat. Then I heard the ominous “clunk”,
and while the steering wheel turned, the wheels didn’t. Looking
under the bonnet I could see that the rubber coupling connecting
the steering column to the steering box input shaft had given
up the ghost, and the retaining bolts had not retained much.
At least I wasn’t haring around a corner … Called the dealer,
who to his credit seemed quite shocked, and sent a transporter
round the next day to take the car. I enclosed a list of all the
broken electrical stuff too…
Tip #1: Don’t try to put a MKII on a transported backwards, the
exhaust and front number plate get in the way.
So, I’m in Boston (so I didn’t need the car anyway), but I’m sure
nobody I know believes I got the car…
More next week when I get it back!
Ian
From: “Richard King” kingr%sabc.co.za@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 17:59:55 +0200
Subject: Re: Tools!
Interesting…
<Have you considered buying “METRINCH”? (…spelt wrong?)
<
<Magnificent tools - work on the flats rather than the corners of the
<nut - and work on BOTH metric and inch sizes!
The new Craftsman sockets are made this way too.
LLoyd
From: “Martin Robert Fooks, WWIS” mfooks@postiss.netherlands.ncr.com
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 96 15:45:00 PDT
Subject: Toys
I have to admit that my Jaguar is not officially a toy… It is a
high-profile promotional vehicle, built with the aim of getting the
attention of prospective clients.
(I really must change the company from one specializing in computers, to one
specializing in Jaguar modifications, so that I can offer a service to
people who have seen my toy, sorry, promotional vehicle and asked about
details).
Martin Fooks
Nitrous Oxide Injected XJS
P.S. It is the most fun of any promotional vehicle I have ever owned!
From: stephen@kurtzman.com (stephen kurtzman)
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 13:06:00 -0800
Subject: Re: leather dye/ 16bit
Of course I was joking! I’m amazed that all of a sudden stuff like this
shows up in marketing materials. ECU’s have uPs since a long time, but
this was the first time I saw it announced. A shift from horse power and
torque to Mbytes and MIPS ? (<-- joke)
Jokes have a way of concealing the truth. Over the last couple of years
I’ve seen sales literature for a number of cars boast of sophisticated
microprocessors and networks. In coming years, expect to see online
diagnostics through an internet connection and an embedded http server (<–
half joking).
From: rrichardson@eurekanet.com (Robert J. Richardson)
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 16:39:00 -0500
Subject: E-Type brakes
I understand I can have the flexible brake hose replaced on my 1964 E-Type
FHC without having to drop the rear suspension. But if the leak is in one
of the calipers then I’m told replacing the brake pads may temporarily cure
the leak.
Can brake pads or the bridge pipes be replaced without dropping the
suspension? My mechanic needs a qualified answer before he can go ahead
with the job. Thanks.
From: Peter Rebbechi <"REBBECHI PETER"@A1.MEOC02.SNO.mts.dec.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 22:05:00 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: CPU power
Before anybody gets carried away with 16 bits or 32 bits,
remember that Man got to the Moon on 7k of memory. Surely
engineers can ensure I can get to the shops in my car!.
Horses for courses.
From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 18:58:50 +0100
Subject: Re: Toy taxi?
Dr. Dave said:
Jags are never used as a source of income…
I will agree with you that you basic statement, that Jags are
never used as a source of income
If I may burst yet another bubble, my jag mechanic
is doing quite well!!! (Just check my bank account!)
Grins,
Charles Daly,
'62 E-Type, ots
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 18:10:42 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: ser. II xj6 air. cond.failure.
On Wed, 17 Jul 1996 B0R0@ozemail.com.au wrote:
that the air. cond. belt was melting on the comp. totally stuffed.
=20
Question. Can i replace the unit with a unit off another car.=20
ie ford falcon EA.
=20
any other advice on exchanging units, and i do know that i will have to m=
ake up=20
new mounting brakets etc.
Get another Harrison (that’s GM) A-6 compressor. It’s as good as any=20
compressor out there, better than most, and it fits! Your mounting=20
brackets should all work just fine. Be careful when re-installing the=20
aluminum hose connection fitting on the back. There is only one bolt=20
in the center. It has to be snug not to leak, but it is easy to=20
overtighten the bolt and warp the aluminum fitting. If this happens, you=
=20
buy another fitting.
On the subject of automotive A/C, I’ve recently seen some advertisements=20
for “Conversion Kits” that supposidly enable one to convert an existing=20
R-12 system to R-134a. I’ve not examined one of these kits (need=20
to do that!), but I am assuming (always dangerous) that it includes new=20
seals, gaskets, O-rings, and hoses that are R-134a-resistant. I=20
would estimate that converting an existing system this way would probably=
=20
decrease performance by 10-15y=DE/m{e=CDbW/=D1D=A5p=A5=AE
From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 96 12:53:00 PDT
Subject: 16 bit vs. 32 bit ECUs
Hi,
Here's an area where I have some expertise. I've designed many
microcontrollers for many applications and customers. For the
automobile manufacturer, choosing the ECU is a non-trivial task. Part
of the solution set includes whether the (substantial) software
development investment can be carried over to other current and future
cars, either on the same 16-bit CPU or on a same-family 32-bitter.
The question of whether it's a 16-bit or 32-bit CPU comes down to
bandwidth, cost, and synergy with the rest of the product line (the
other cars that you build) and the future (can you get more than one
model year life out of this component and software development
investment?). There is a common misunderstanding in how computers
handle large numbers. In reality, a 16-bit CPU easily handles large
numbers - you're not limited to the width of a 16-bit word. A 32-bit
CPU potentially has higher executional bandwidth - and generally
higher system cost. But if the 16-bit machine has the bandwidth to
execute the task, more bits give zero upside effect.
One of my neighbors made an observation recently: In the old days,
guys stood around and talked about horsepower and carburetors and
such. Now guys stand around and talk about our computers. This is
carried over to advertising, where consumer awareness of computers in
general has risen to the point where manufacturers to do the same sort
of bragging about bits and MIPS.
I guess some of us still talk about cars, communicating via our
computers. :)
Regards,
David
'84 XJ6 VDP
Evaluating a '70 E 2+2 this Saturday - one owner - real clean....
DX4-100
Pentium (tm) Processor - only 90MHz
From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 96 20:23:05 EDT
Subject: CPU power
From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
*** Resending note of 07/18/96 09:10
*** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FE21
*** INTERNET - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM *** IBMMAIL - AUIBMSPM ****
Subject: CPU power
Before anybody gets carried away with 16 bits or 32 bits,
remember that Man got to the Moon on 7k of memory. Surely
engineers can ensure I can get to the shops in my car!.
Horses for courses.
The moon on 7k of memory…jeez, after thinking about it, and
watching apollo 13, it’s just unbelievable that with such primitive
computer technology they managed to do it. In Apollo 13 those guys used
slide rules, and had pencils/paper in the spacecraft doing calculations
on trajectory when they were still millions of miles from earth…
Think about the breakdowns we all encounter in our toys < >
With all the possible combinations of causes, seeing these guys
baby a spacecraft a million miles back to home just made me think that
those ‘X-files’ guys who believe there are conspiracies everywhere,
may not be too far off the mark when they say that hollywood produced
the lunar landing…maybe Capricorn One was not such a fictional movie
after all…who was that…just heard someone breathing outside
my door…Cheryl get the kids quick…my god they’re here…trust
no-one you guys…ahhhhhhhhh
From: pbrown@sbnsw.com.au
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 96 0:57:47 ���
Subject: re: Re: ser. II xj6 air. cond.failure
Hi,
Thanks, Larry, for your reply to the original question; however, I think
what’s being asked is if anyone knows a plain vanilla Australian car whose A/C
pump will fit. Most car breakers will only recognise car models when you’re
'phoning around looking for parts.
Even more pertinent is whether we can still use R12 systems here in Oz - I
heard that garages are no longer permitted to use R12 and any recharging must
be done with a non-CFC refrigerant (with attendant and considerable
modification costs).
If anyone can advise on this subject - and how to do the conversion, it would
be immensely helpful. My compressor sounds like a set of bagpipes - at least
now I can estimate engine RPM without looking at the tachometer 8…-(.
TIA
Peter Brown
Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu Wrote:
|
| On Wed, 17 Jul 1996 B0R0@ozemail.com.au wrote:
|
| > that the air. cond. belt was melting on the comp.
| totally stuffed.
| > Question. Can i replace the unit with a unit off
| another car.=20
| > ie ford falcon EA.
| > any other advice on exchanging units, and i do know that
| i will have to m=
| ake up=20
| > new mounting brakets etc.
|
| Get another Harrison (that’s GM) A-6 compressor. It’s as
| good as any=20
| compressor out there, better than most, and it fits! Your
| mounting=20
| brackets should all work just fine. Be careful when
| re-installing the=20
| aluminum hose connection fitting on the back. There is
| only one bolt=20
| in the center. It has to be snug not to leak, but it is
| easy to=20
| overtighten the bolt and warp the aluminum fitting. If
| this happens, you=
| =20
| buy another fitting.
|
| On the subject of automotive A/C, I’ve recently seen some
| advertisements=20
| for “Conversion Kits” that supposidly enable one to
| convert an existing=20
| R-12 system to R-134a. I’ve not examined one of these
| kits (need=20
| to do that!), but I am assuming (always dangerous) that it
| includes new=20
| seals, gaskets, O-rings, and hoses that are
| R-134a-resistant. I=20
| would estimate that converting an existing system this way
| would probably=
| =20
| decrease performance by 10-15
From: pbrown@sbnsw.com.au
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 96 0:57:47 ���
Subject: re: Re: ser. II xj6 air. cond.failure
Hi,
Thanks, Larry, for your reply to the original question; however, I think
what’s being asked is if anyone knows a plain vanilla Australian car whose A/C
pump will fit. Most car breakers will only recognise car models when you’re
'phoning around looking for parts.
Even more pertinent is whether we can still use R12 systems here in Oz - I
heard that garages are no longer permitted to use R12 and any recharging must
be done with a non-CFC refrigerant (with attendant and considerable
modification costs).
If anyone can advise on this subject - and how to do the conversion, it would
be immensely helpful. My compressor sounds like a set of bagpipes - at least
now I can estimate engine RPM without looking at the tachometer 8…-(.
TIA
Peter Brown
Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu Wrote:
|
| On Wed, 17 Jul 1996 B0R0@ozemail.com.au wrote:
|
| > that the air. cond. belt was melting on the comp.
| totally stuffed.
| > Question. Can i replace the unit with a unit off
| another car.=20
| > ie ford falcon EA.
| > any other advice on exchanging units, and i do know that
| i will have to m=
| ake up=20
| > new mounting brakets etc.
|
| Get another Harrison (that’s GM) A-6 compressor. It’s as
| good as any=20
| compressor out there, better than most, and it fits! Your
| mounting=20
| brackets should all work just fine. Be careful when
| re-installing the=20
| aluminum hose connection fitting on the back. There is
| only one bolt=20
| in the center. It has to be snug not to leak, but it is
| easy to=20
| overtighten the bolt and warp the aluminum fitting. If
| this happens, you=
| =20
| buy another fitting.
|
| On the subject of automotive A/C, I’ve recently seen some
| advertisements=20
| for “Conversion Kits” that supposidly enable one to
| convert an existing=20
| R-12 system to R-134a. I’ve not examined one of these
| kits (need=20
| to do that!), but I am assuming (always dangerous) that it
| includes new=20
| seals, gaskets, O-rings, and hoses that are
| R-134a-resistant. I=20
| would estimate that converting an existing system this way
| would probably=
| =20
| decrease performance by 10-15
From: pbrown@sbnsw.com.au
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 96 0:57:47 ���
Subject: re: Re: ser. II xj6 air. cond.failure
Hi,
Thanks, Larry, for your reply to the original question; however, I think
what’s being asked is if anyone knows a plain vanilla Australian car whose A/C
pump will fit. Most car breakers will only recognise car models when you’re
'phoning around looking for parts.
Even more pertinent is whether we can still use R12 systems here in Oz - I
heard that garages are no longer permitted to use R12 and any recharging must
be done with a non-CFC refrigerant (with attendant and considerable
modification costs).
If anyone can advise on this subject - and how to do the conversion, it would
be immensely helpful. My compressor sounds like a set of bagpipes - at least
now I can estimate engine RPM without looking at the tachometer 8…-(.
TIA
Peter Brown
Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu Wrote:
|
| On Wed, 17 Jul 1996 B0R0@ozemail.com.au wrote:
|
| > that the air. cond. belt was melting on the comp.
| totally stuffed.
| > Question. Can i replace the unit with a unit off
| another car.=20
| > ie ford falcon EA.
| > any other advice on exchanging units, and i do know that
| i will have to m=
| ake up=20
| > new mounting brakets etc.
|
| Get another Harrison (that’s GM) A-6 compressor. It’s as
| good as any=20
| compressor out there, better than most, and it fits! Your
| mounting=20
| brackets should all work just fine. Be careful when
| re-installing the=20
| aluminum hose connection fitting on the back. There is
| only one bolt=20
| in the center. It has to be snug not to leak, but it is
| easy to=20
| overtighten the bolt and warp the aluminum fitting. If
| this happens, you=
| =20
| buy another fitting.
|
| On the subject of automotive A/C, I’ve recently seen some
| advertisements=20
| for “Conversion Kits” that supposidly enable one to
| convert an existing=20
| R-12 system to R-134a. I’ve not examined one of these
| kits (need=20
| to do that!), but I am assuming (always dangerous) that it
| includes new=20
| seals, gaskets, O-rings, and hoses that are
| R-134a-resistant. I=20
| would estimate that converting an existing system this way
| would probably=
| =20
| decrease performance by 10-15
From: pbrown@sbnsw.com.au
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 96 0:57:47 ���
Subject: re: Re: ser. II xj6 air. cond.failure
Hi,
Thanks, Larry, for your reply to the original question; however, I think
what’s being asked is if anyone knows a plain vanilla Australian car whose A/C
pump will fit. Most car breakers will only recognise car models when you’re
'phoning around looking for parts.
Even more pertinent is whether we can still use R12 systems here in Oz - I
heard that garages are no longer permitted to use R12 and any recharging must
be done with a non-CFC refrigerant (with attendant and considerable
modification costs).
If anyone can advise on this subject - and how to do the conversion, it would
be immensely helpful. My compressor sounds like a set of bagpipes - at least
now I can estimate engine RPM without looking at the tachometer 8…-(.
TIA
Peter Brown
Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu Wrote:
|
| On Wed, 17 Jul 1996 B0R0@ozemail.com.au wrote:
|
| > that the air. cond. belt was melting on the comp.
| totally stuffed.
| > Question. Can i replace the unit with a unit off
| another car.=20
| > ie ford falcon EA.
| > any other advice on exchanging units, and i do know that
| i will have to m=
| ake up=20
| > new mounting brakets etc.
|
| Get another Harrison (that’s GM) A-6 compressor. It’s as
| good as any=20
| compressor out there, better than most, and it fits! Your
| mounting=20
| brackets should all work just fine. Be careful when
| re-installing the=20
| aluminum hose connection fitting on the back. There is
| only one bolt=20
| in the center. It has to be snug not to leak, but it is
| easy to=20
| overtighten the bolt and warp the aluminum fitting. If
| this happens, you=
| =20
| buy another fitting.
|
| On the subject of automotive A/C, I’ve recently seen some
| advertisements=20
| for “Conversion Kits” that supposidly enable one to
| convert an existing=20
| R-12 system to R-134a. I’ve not examined one of these
| kits (need=20
| to do that!), but I am assuming (always dangerous) that it
| includes new=20
| seals, gaskets, O-rings, and hoses that are
| R-134a-resistant. I=20
| would estimate that converting an existing system this way
| would probably=
| =20
| decrease performance by 10-15
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #215
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Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 17:24:29 +0200 (MET DST)
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From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #216
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Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Precedence: bulk
X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest
jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 18 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 216
re: Re: ser. II xj6 air. cond.failure
re: Re: ser. II xj6 air. cond.failure
re: Re: ser. II xj6 air. cond.failure
re: Re: ser. II xj6 air. cond.failure
Re: XR8 Raffle
Re: Toy taxi?
FS: primrose E-type roadster
[S3 XJ6] Holiday tappet-guide woes
A/C
A/C
Engine cleaning
RE: She has run her last race…
Re: ser. II xj6 air. cond.failure. (fwd)
re: Re: ser. II xj6 air. cond.failure
A/C conversion
Jaguars in professional use
From: pbrown@sbnsw.com.au
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 96 0:57:47 ���
Subject: re: Re: ser. II xj6 air. cond.failure
Hi,
Thanks, Larry, for your reply to the original question; however, I think
what’s being asked is if anyone knows a plain vanilla Australian car whose A/C
pump will fit. Most car breakers will only recognise car models when you’re
'phoning around looking for parts.
Even more pertinent is whether we can still use R12 systems here in Oz - I
heard that garages are no longer permitted to use R12 and any recharging must
be done with a non-CFC refrigerant (with attendant and considerable
modification costs).
If anyone can advise on this subject - and how to do the conversion, it would
be immensely helpful. My compressor sounds like a set of bagpipes - at least
now I can estimate engine RPM without looking at the tachometer 8…-(.
TIA
Peter Brown
Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu Wrote:
|
| On Wed, 17 Jul 1996 B0R0@ozemail.com.au wrote:
|
| > that the air. cond. belt was melting on the comp.
| totally stuffed.
| > Question. Can i replace the unit with a unit off
| another car.=20
| > ie ford falcon EA.
| > any other advice on exchanging units, and i do know that
| i will have to m=
| ake up=20
| > new mounting brakets etc.
|
| Get another Harrison (that’s GM) A-6 compressor. It’s as
| good as any=20
| compressor out there, better than most, and it fits! Your
| mounting=20
| brackets should all work just fine. Be careful when
| re-installing the=20
| aluminum hose connection fitting on the back. There is
| only one bolt=20
| in the center. It has to be snug not to leak, but it is
| easy to=20
| overtighten the bolt and warp the aluminum fitting. If
| this happens, you=
| =20
| buy another fitting.
|
| On the subject of automotive A/C, I’ve recently seen some
| advertisements=20
| for “Conversion Kits” that supposidly enable one to
| convert an existing=20
| R-12 system to R-134a. I’ve not examined one of these
| kits (need=20
| to do that!), but I am assuming (always dangerous) that it
| includes new=20
| seals, gaskets, O-rings, and hoses that are
| R-134a-resistant. I=20
| would estimate that converting an existing system this way
| would probably=
| =20
| decrease performance by 10-15
From: pbrown@sbnsw.com.au
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 96 0:57:47 ���
Subject: re: Re: ser. II xj6 air. cond.failure
Hi,
Thanks, Larry, for your reply to the original question; however, I think
what’s being asked is if anyone knows a plain vanilla Australian car whose A/C
pump will fit. Most car breakers will only recognise car models when you’re
'phoning around looking for parts.
Even more pertinent is whether we can still use R12 systems here in Oz - I
heard that garages are no longer permitted to use R12 and any recharging must
be done with a non-CFC refrigerant (with attendant and considerable
modification costs).
If anyone can advise on this subject - and how to do the conversion, it would
be immensely helpful. My compressor sounds like a set of bagpipes - at least
now I can estimate engine RPM without looking at the tachometer 8…-(.
TIA
Peter Brown
Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu Wrote:
|
| On Wed, 17 Jul 1996 B0R0@ozemail.com.au wrote:
|
| > that the air. cond. belt was melting on the comp.
| totally stuffed.
| > Question. Can i replace the unit with a unit off
| another car.=20
| > ie ford falcon EA.
| > any other advice on exchanging units, and i do know that
| i will have to m=
| ake up=20
| > new mounting brakets etc.
|
| Get another Harrison (that’s GM) A-6 compressor. It’s as
| good as any=20
| compressor out there, better than most, and it fits! Your
| mounting=20
| brackets should all work just fine. Be careful when
| re-installing the=20
| aluminum hose connection fitting on the back. There is
| only one bolt=20
| in the center. It has to be snug not to leak, but it is
| easy to=20
| overtighten the bolt and warp the aluminum fitting. If
| this happens, you=
| =20
| buy another fitting.
|
| On the subject of automotive A/C, I’ve recently seen some
| advertisements=20
| for “Conversion Kits” that supposidly enable one to
| convert an existing=20
| R-12 system to R-134a. I’ve not examined one of these
| kits (need=20
| to do that!), but I am assuming (always dangerous) that it
| includes new=20
| seals, gaskets, O-rings, and hoses that are
| R-134a-resistant. I=20
| would estimate that converting an existing system this way
| would probably=
| =20
| decrease performance by 10-15
From: pbrown@sbnsw.com.au
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 96 0:57:47 ���
Subject: re: Re: ser. II xj6 air. cond.failure
Hi,
Thanks, Larry, for your reply to the original question; however, I think
what’s being asked is if anyone knows a plain vanilla Australian car whose A/C
pump will fit. Most car breakers will only recognise car models when you’re
'phoning around looking for parts.
Even more pertinent is whether we can still use R12 systems here in Oz - I
heard that garages are no longer permitted to use R12 and any recharging must
be done with a non-CFC refrigerant (with attendant and considerable
modification costs).
If anyone can advise on this subject - and how to do the conversion, it would
be immensely helpful. My compressor sounds like a set of bagpipes - at least
now I can estimate engine RPM without looking at the tachometer 8…-(.
TIA
Peter Brown
Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu Wrote:
|
| On Wed, 17 Jul 1996 B0R0@ozemail.com.au wrote:
|
| > that the air. cond. belt was melting on the comp.
| totally stuffed.
| > Question. Can i replace the unit with a unit off
| another car.=20
| > ie ford falcon EA.
| > any other advice on exchanging units, and i do know that
| i will have to m=
| ake up=20
| > new mounting brakets etc.
|
| Get another Harrison (that’s GM) A-6 compressor. It’s as
| good as any=20
| compressor out there, better than most, and it fits! Your
| mounting=20
| brackets should all work just fine. Be careful when
| re-installing the=20
| aluminum hose connection fitting on the back. There is
| only one bolt=20
| in the center. It has to be snug not to leak, but it is
| easy to=20
| overtighten the bolt and warp the aluminum fitting. If
| this happens, you=
| =20
| buy another fitting.
|
| On the subject of automotive A/C, I’ve recently seen some
| advertisements=20
| for “Conversion Kits” that supposidly enable one to
| convert an existing=20
| R-12 system to R-134a. I’ve not examined one of these
| kits (need=20
| to do that!), but I am assuming (always dangerous) that it
| includes new=20
| seals, gaskets, O-rings, and hoses that are
| R-134a-resistant. I=20
| would estimate that converting an existing system this way
| would probably=
| =20
| decrease performance by 10-15
From: pbrown@sbnsw.com.au
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 96 0:57:47 ���
Subject: re: Re: ser. II xj6 air. cond.failure
Hi,
Thanks, Larry, for your reply to the original question; however, I think
what’s being asked is if anyone knows a plain vanilla Australian car whose A/C
pump will fit. Most car breakers will only recognise car models when you’re
'phoning around looking for parts.
Even more pertinent is whether we can still use R12 systems here in Oz - I
heard that garages are no longer permitted to use R12 and any recharging must
be done with a non-CFC refrigerant (with attendant and considerable
modification costs).
If anyone can advise on this subject - and how to do the conversion, it would
be immensely helpful. My compressor sounds like a set of bagpipes - at least
now I can estimate engine RPM without looking at the tachometer 8…-(.
TIA
Peter Brown
Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu Wrote:
|
| On Wed, 17 Jul 1996 B0R0@ozemail.com.au wrote:
|
| > that the air. cond. belt was melting on the comp.
| totally stuffed.
| > Question. Can i replace the unit with a unit off
| another car.=20
| > ie ford falcon EA.
| > any other advice on exchanging units, and i do know that
| i will have to m=
| ake up=20
| > new mounting brakets etc.
|
| Get another Harrison (that’s GM) A-6 compressor. It’s as
| good as any=20
| compressor out there, better than most, and it fits! Your
| mounting=20
| brackets should all work just fine. Be careful when
| re-installing the=20
| aluminum hose connection fitting on the back. There is
| only one bolt=20
| in the center. It has to be snug not to leak, but it is
| easy to=20
| overtighten the bolt and warp the aluminum fitting. If
| this happens, you=
| =20
| buy another fitting.
|
| On the subject of automotive A/C, I’ve recently seen some
| advertisements=20
| for “Conversion Kits” that supposidly enable one to
| convert an existing=20
| R-12 system to R-134a. I’ve not examined one of these
| kits (need=20
| to do that!), but I am assuming (always dangerous) that it
| includes new=20
| seals, gaskets, O-rings, and hoses that are
| R-134a-resistant. I=20
| would estimate that converting an existing system this way
| would probably=
| =20
| decrease performance by 10-15
From: Don Tracey dont@echuca.net.au
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 07:31:50 +1100
Subject: Re: XR8 Raffle
I see that the EAA is raffling an XR8 at the Oshkosh Air Show that is on
this month.They have one on show there. Tickets available only at the
air show at $50 each or 6 for $260 ,7500 tickets .choice of convertable
or coupe.Info at http://www.eaa.org . Best of luck to anyone who is
there ands buys a ticket.
DON TRACEY
AUSTRALIA.
From: Denny Alford alforkd@occ-uky.campus.mci.net
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 07:55:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Toy taxi?
From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 18:58:50 +0100
Subject: Re: Toy taxi?Dr. Dave said:
Jags are never used as a source of income…
I fondly refer to mine as “Dell’s (Mechanic) Supplemental Retirement Fund”!
You would STILL have to pry it away from me! ;o>
From: “Norm deCarteret (914-759-4559)” nsdec@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 96 09:20:31 EDT
Subject: FS: primrose E-type roadster
Carbs just rebuilt, factory A/C and hardtop. Paint has a couple dings
and black leather worn but serviceable and presentable. Top engine
rebuild when I bought the car in 1983 with 67K, 74K miles today. Brakes,
shocks and what-not done since, all receipts available. Now in NE Penna.
$22K. Norm 717-296-5140 or nsdec@vnet.ibm.com
From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 15:21:44 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: [S3 XJ6] Holiday tappet-guide woes
[This posting is quite long, sorry about that!]
Call me the Tappet Guy, everybody else does!
As some of you might know, I took my car, an '86 SIII XJ6 4.2 Sovereign
for a little spin last week and had some trouble…
I drove from Bergen to Amsterdam, some 2100 kilometers, without a
glitch. In fact, I remember sitting in my hotel room in Amsterdam and
contemplating the posting I was going to make to Jag-Lovers when I got
home: “Bergen-Amsterdam and back with only a burnt-out turn-signal bulb”.
Well, a lot more was in store…
While in Amsterdam I had my car in for a 24000Km service at Kimman BV,
their service was excellent though pricey. Thanks to Martin Robert Fooks
for the tip.
The day after I collected my car from Kimman I started on the way home. I
was just west of Groeningen, cruising at a steady 140Km/h and thoroughly
enjoying myself when disaster struck. Everything seemed to happen at
once, the engine sound got deeper, a loud whirring noise appeared as
well as an intermittant clicking. I pulled off the motorway at the first
opportunity and got out of the car with the engine idling.
There was no mistake about it, a loud, mechanical clicking sound from the
engine. All sorts of different scenarios went through my mind, from a
broken valve via a broken valve spring to a worn-out tie-rod bearing. You
get the picture… the strange thing was that the sound sort of floated
when I revved the engine, it came and went. I quickly discovered the
reason for the deeper note from the engine and the loud whirring, the
exhaust system was leaking from three different joints and the engine
cooling fan clutch had seized up making the fan turn with the engine
whether it was needed or not.
The fan and the exhaust I considered minor problems, but I was really
worried about the clicking sound. I drove carefully to the nearest gas
station and parked in the shade. I let the engine cool off for a while
and removed the sparkplugs. They all looked fine, no trace of oil or any
mechanical impact of any kind. I was a bit relieved but still puzzled and
worried. I also checked the oil and coolant, they both looked fine and
the levels had not changed.
Luckily I’d brought my GSM cellular phone so I called Nick for some
advice. It was sure nice to have someone familiar with Jaguars to talk to
in a situation like that! Thanks Nick! He asked me to rev the engine to
check if the sounds appeared all over the rpm scale so I started her up
again. The clicking sound was gone! I almost couldn’t believe it, but
decided to continue the trip. After about five minutes of slow driving
(max 2500rpm) on the motorway the clicking returned. I pulled off the
motorway again at a rest stop and started calling people all over the
place…
Nick volunteered to try to get hold of any Jag Lovers in the Netherlands
while I called SOS International in Denmark to arrange for transporting
the car home somehow. This international rescue service is part of my
extensive insurance coverage (which I pay a lot of money for), but I was
instantly disappointed when I called them. They were very busy right now
but would call me back in two and a half hours. I never heard from them
again. So much for SOS International…
Instead I called Wim vanGinhoven (thanks for the tip, Tony!) who was out
fishing but still answered my call for help on his cellular phone. He was
very helpful (thanks Wim!) and suggested that I get in touch with Mr.
DeVries of Hori Jaguar in Tynaarlo. Mr. DeVries was not at home but I
still decided to drive to his garage as it was only 15 kilometers away.
On the way there the clicking persisted… I parked outside his garage
and sat down to smoke and wait. I must have smoked a whole pack of
sigarettes that evening!
After talking to Nick, Wim and others it suddenly dawned on me that the
problem was probably a loose tappet-guide.
While I was waiting I called Vicarage in the UK and spoke to a man
called Malcolm. He was quite fantastic and did everything in his power
(and them some!) to help. He tried calling all the Jaguar people he knew
in both Holland and Germany to find someone who could help. It was not
his fault that he couldn’t reach anyone, it was after all late Friday
evening by that time. Thanks Malcolm!
I suddenly remembered a tip I got from “Gerry from Switzerland” on this
list and tried calling CC Classics N.V. near Den Haag. They were very
helpful and volunteered to “wait up” for me and work on the car trough
the night. I was seriously considering taking them up on their offer but
decided against it as it was quite a long drive in the wrong direction.
After waiting until midnight for Mr. DeVries to come home I decided to go
and get something to eat. This involved going back on the motorway and
driving for some kilometers so I was not very happy about it. I was
constantly waiting for the clicking sound to return, but it never did!
After some careful deliberations and discussion with my passenger we
decided to head for home and drive very carefully. Driving through
Germany on the autobahn at night and not being able to go faster than
100Km/h was not much fun, but we made it back home to Norway without
further incidents. I stopped over in Oslo and visited Nick who rewarded
me with a North Cape Challenge T-shirt and cap. He told me that he had
got hold of Jeffrey Gram who had galantly offered to help. I didn’t need
it by then, but thank you, Jeffrey!
Since then the engine has not made a single click, but I am still going
to secure those tappet-guides at the first opportunity. I’ve read a lot
on this list about tappet-guide stakedown kits, but all the people I’ve
talked to during and since my trip adviced against them and recommended a
small steel screw beside each tappet-guide instead. I guess I’ll opt for
this solution as it seems the simplest.
All in all (and in retrospect) the car behaved quite well. It is after
all 10 years old, has seen over 177000 kilometers (110000 miles) of
service without any major overhauls and it didn’t break down completely
and leave me stranded. It used very little oil and the fuel consumption
was only 12 liters/100 kilometers (19.8 mpg US). Funny thing was that
the fuel consumption was the same whether driving 80-90Km/h (50-60mph)
in Norway or 140-160Km/h (90-100mph) in Germany and Holland. The engine
temperature never once rose above the normal 90 degrees C, even when
cruising at a steady 160Km/h (100mph) in warm weather going down through
Germany or in rush hour traffic in Amsterdam. The total distance covered
on this trip was 4250 kilometers (2650 miles).
I’ve made this trip many times (six, I think) in many different cars, but
never before has the term Grand Touring made any real sense to me. Now it
surely does. Next year I will have fixed the problems that arose this
time and quite a few other items and I will drive it for an even longer
trip to Spain. What have I learned from this experience? To bring a lot
of tools, some spare parts, a list of people and garages compiled from
postings on Jag Lovers, my GSM cellular phone with a “modem” interface and
a portable computer.
Thank you, Jag Lovers, the greatest resource for Jaguar owners on the
planet!
Do I still love my Jaguar? Oh yes!
Gunnar
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar XJ6 4.2 Sovereign
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | Vicki who? What .sig virus?
From: jorn@itn.is (Johann Orn Hedinsson)
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 13:34:44 +0000
Subject: A/C
Hi there fellow Jag owners
A question to you air cond. guys. I am removing the engine of my xj6 81 and
plan to do a lot of work in the engine compartment. I need to get out of my
way the pump and the cndenser but my service manual says I am supposed
under no circumstances to take this apart.
My question is why. Is it dangerous or just not adviseable.
Another one. There was a member on this list who drove an xj6 in which he
had changed the engine to chevy 350. Are you still out there? Does anybody
know who this was.
Greetings from the frozen north, up on top
Johann Orn
From: jorn@itn.is (Johann Orn Hedinsson)
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 13:38:56 +0000
Subject: A/C
Hi there fellow Jag owners
A question to you air cond. guys. I am removing the engine of my xj6 81 and
plan to do a lot of work in the engine compartment. I need to get out of my
way the pump and the cndenser but my service manual says I am supposed
under no circumstances to take this apart.
My question is why. Is it dangerous or just not adviseable.
Another one. There was a member on this list who drove an xj6 in which he
had changed the engine to chevy 350. Are you still out there? Does anybody
know who this was.
Greetings from the frozen north, up on top
Johann Orn
From: jackb@epix.net (Jack Bednarski)
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 10:44:20 -0400
Subject: Engine cleaning
We all have our favorite method of keeping the exterior of our cars looking
like new, but what is the best way to keep the engine clean? A lot of
people like to look over these cars and ask if they can see the engine
compartment. It would be embarrassing to have a dirty engine. Any good ideas?
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 09:53:26 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: RE: She has run her last race…
On Wed, 17 Jul 1996, Hunt Dabney wrote:
Jim-
I did this with my e. Added 50% to the insured value this way.I successfully increased the value of my 3.8 S-Type by taking it to an
appraiser, getting a letter signed, and taking the letter to my
insurance agent.
Can you give us any ideas on locating an appraiser who knows what he is
doing, and what was needed to convince your insurance company that he
did? Also, ballpark cost for it? Thanks.
Larry Lee
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 10:13:32 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: ser. II xj6 air. cond.failure. (fwd)
Greetings all,
Sorry about the interrupted message. Something went haywire in our
server in the middle of my writing it, but that portion of it went out
anyway. I promise I was not suddenly making obscene comments!!! I
completed the post below.
Larry Lee
Forwarded message ---------- Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 18:10:42 -0500 (CDT)
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
To: B0R0@ozemail.com.au
Cc: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Re: ser. II xj6 air. cond.failure.
On Wed, 17 Jul 1996 B0R0@ozemail.com.au wrote:
that the air. cond. belt was melting on the comp. totally stuffed.
Question. Can i replace the unit with a unit off another car.
ie ford falcon EA.any other advice on exchanging units, and i do know that i will have to make up
new mounting brakets etc.
Get another Harrison (that’s GM) A-6 compressor. It’s as good as any
compressor out there, better than most, and it fits! Your mounting
brackets should all work just fine. Be careful when re-installing the
aluminum hose connection fitting on the back. There is only one bolt
in the center. It has to be snug not to leak, but it is easy to
overtighten the bolt and warp the aluminum fitting. If this happens, you
buy another fitting.
Since you are opening the system, be sure to replace the dryer, too.
On the subject of automotive A/C, I’ve recently seen some advertisements
for “Conversion Kits” that supposidly enable one to convert an existing
R-12 system to R-134a. I’ve not examined one of these kits (need
to do that!), but I am assuming (always dangerous) that it includes new
seals, gaskets, O-rings, and hoses that are R-134a-resistant. I
would estimate that converting an existing system this way would probably
decrease performance by 10-15 percent, but that
may be suitable in a number of climates. It would reduce refrigerant gas
cost by about 75 percent, not to mention availability problems. Has anybody
seen or tried one of these? If so, please comment.
Larry Lee
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 10:22:04 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: re: Re: ser. II xj6 air. cond.failure
On Fri, 19 Jul 1996 pbrown@sbnsw.com.au wrote:
Hi,
Thanks, Larry, for your reply to the original question; however, I think
what’s being asked is if anyone knows a plain vanilla Australian car whose A/C
pump will fit. Most car breakers will only recognise car models when you’re
'phoning around looking for parts.
I’m certainly no expert on Austrailian cars, but don’t the General Motors
cars produced or sold there use GM systems? If so, I would think that the
A-6 compressors should be on a lot of them. If not, I would be
interested to know whose systems they do use.
Larry Lee
From: viadata@interramp.com (David Hurlston)
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 10:12:58 -0700
Subject: A/C conversion
A recent question concerned the cost of conversion to the new R134A.
Pennzoil is advertising an R12 replacement that requires no modifications to
the existing A/C. Check out their New Products section at www.pennzoil.com.
It sells for about 8 bucks a pound. That’s ten times what I used to pay for
R12 but less than half what I pay for it now! I don’t know if it’s
available yet in Oz.
Since the average age of Jags on the road in the US is 15 years, there must
be a lot of owners that will be looking for an alternative to R12. If
anyone has had experience with the Pennzoil product, I’d sure be interested
in hearing about it.
By the way, an A/C man told me that Dupont has 90% of capacity devoted to
turning out the present R12 before the manufacturing ban goes into effect
next year. He says they will have a stockpile that will last until 2020. I
imagine they are expecting to get a pretty good price for it.
Dave
From: per@quantum.ece.ucsb.edu (Per Stenius)
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 96 8:30:52 PDT
Subject: Jaguars in professional use
Just to add my $0.02 worth, I’d like to point out that the British policeforce
has been using Jaguars over several decades. To quote from Nigel Thorley’s
excellent book on the XJ:
“Jaguars have been the regular transport for our Police forces for years, from
the early days of the SS in the thirties, but perhaps the two models most
commonly associated with the force have been the Mark II in the sixties and
the XJ in the seventies and eighties.”
Anyways, I still claim that if properly maintained (and this can be done at
reasonable cost if one does part of the work oneself) the Jaguar is an
excellent and reliable car. After my PO did a valve job on the car I currently
have, it has been running great (starts better than my '82 Maxima, although
it has 10 more years on it…). Of course, after all this, it better take me
to LA and back next weekend for the car show…!
Per Stenius (http://www.engineering.ucsb.edu/~pstenius/)
Fax: (805) 893 3262 Email: per@quantum.ece.ucsb.edu
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #216
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X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest
jag-lovers-digest Friday, 19 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 217
Re: A/C
XJ6 Series III nasty transmission noise.
armstrong steering
Re: A/C conversion
Re: XJ6 Series III nasty transmission noise.
Brian Chase? …
Clean engine compartment
1990 VDP air conditioning problem
‘Factory’ R134A air con conversions
Retorquing XK cylinder heads
Theoretical question
Repacing termostat
concerned
Re: armstrong steering
A/C R-12 to R-134a Retro Kit
Re: ‘Factory’ R134A air con conversions
Re: Clean engine compartment
Wanted XJ6 with shot motor and tatty interior
Splitting the list
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 10:46:41 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: A/C
On Thu, 18 Jul 1996, Johann Orn Hedinsson wrote:
A question to you air cond. guys. I am removing the engine of my xj6 81 and
plan to do a lot of work in the engine compartment. I need to get out of my
way the pump and the cndenser but my service manual says I am supposed
under no circumstances to take this apart.
My question is why. Is it dangerous or just not adviseable.
It can be dangerous if you don’t know what you are doing. The system is
under pressure (around 100psi when not running), and it must be
discharged before any connections are broken. R-12 is considered to be
an environmental hazard, so it should not be discharged into the air.
You need a recovery unit–and the guy who knows how to use it–to do this
properly…and legally in most places.
It’s never advisable to break open an A/C system if you don’t have to.
With the lengths of hoses normally found under the bonnet, one can often
dismount things like compressors and condensers and lay them adequately
out of the way without breaking into the system.
If you do decide to disconnect and remove A/C components, I suggest the
following:
-
Have a certified shop remove the refrigerant from your A/C system.
-
Be careful with the first fitting you take apart. There may be some
residual pressure in the system that could flip something at you. I
always depress one of the Schrader valves to equalize any pressure
differential first. -
Seal off any openings you make in the system immediately to prevent
moisture from infiltrating. Use plastic sheeting of plugs that are
waterproof, not tape that might be porous. -
Be sure to replace the dryer, even though you may not have needed to
remove it for access, as one of the last things when you put the system back
together. -
Go back to your A/C shop for a system evacuation, leak test, and
recharge (with proper lubricant).
Hope this helps.
Larry Lee
From: Dan Welchman Dan.Welchman@Smallworld.co.uk
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 96 16:57:46 BST
Subject: XJ6 Series III nasty transmission noise.
Dear fellow Jag-lovers,
My 1985 (Series III) XJ6 Sovereign (105000 miles) has developed a
most alarming noise which I suspect may be a disintegrating bearing
in one of the universal joints in the rear drive-shafts.
When pulling away from rest it sometimes makes a frighteningly sharp
“CLACK!” sound from what sounds like the rear off-side of the car
(I’m always sitting on the off-side of course so I may be wrong).
It sometimes actually makes a whole sequence of these noises when
pulling away “clack!-clack!-clack!-clack!-clack!-clack” but then
goes quiet just before I have a heart-attack".
It also sometimes makes a “CLACK!” on deceleration.
The problem is maddeningly intermittent and seems to go away after
a few miles. (maybe those little needle rollers get a bit softer
once they’re red-hot so they dont make a “CLACK!” ?!?!?
I have jacked the car up and had a search about underneath.
At first I found a very loose prop shaft guard cover so I hoped
that I had found the problem, but no such luck. With the guard
off it still makes the noise. (Oh well! at least that’s one easy
problem that I’ve found nice and early!)
When lying underneath the car on axle stands and spinning the rear
wheels the off-side inner drive-shaft UJ DOES seem to be making
too much noise (a bit of squeaking and groaning) and the torque
seems to be uneven as you go through 360 degrees of road-wheel
travel.
However it is very difficult to judge the slop in the UJ because
of the Jag rear suspension using the drive shaft as an upper-wishbone
which means the thing is still under load (a bit) even when the car
is jacked up off it’s wheels.
Some questions:-
-
Is there a convenient way to “un-load” those joints so I can
more easily test for backlash! (maybe a jack applied cleverly
somewhere) -
Could I have a drive for a couple of miles and then check to see
if any UJ is getting unduly hot? -
Am I barking up the wrong tree (ie these are classic symptoms of
a dead differential or something like that?)
((Mind you, the diff FEELS OK if you can judge this by trying to
waggle the two rear brake disks in contra-rotation and there not]
being much backlash))
Thanks in advance for your help.
Dan,
P.S. JIM! sorry to hear about your XJ6! (hope your wife wasn’t hurt).
…Rebuild it!! (hell, you know you’re going to do it anyway!)
From: kharder@Direct.CA (Ken Harder)
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 09:39:58 -0700
Subject: armstrong steering
My beautiful 88 jag xj40 soveriegn had a tune-up, new nitrogen bladder and
new hose( the one that costs 110.00) just before we took the car on a run
down the Oregon coast. It ran great and we got terrific gas milleage, all
was right with the world.
Last weekend, after parking at the airport for 2 and 1/2 days(very dusty
from airport construction)we experienced armstrong steering on the way out
of the parkade. This seemed to go away during the half hour trip home, but
is back again today, It is intermittent and occurs during low speeds.
What do you think? Could it be the power steering? The fluid level is perfect.
Help, Debbie
From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 11:04:41 MDT
Subject: Re: A/C conversion
I have been intrigued by the latest discussions on the use of R12
replacements. Furthermore, I have three vehicles that need
recharging and our local AC man is quoting 40$ per pound for the
stuff !!! When I called last month, he was at 32$ per pound.
Ouuchhh !
So, I have decided to experiment with some of the new FR12. I called
and talked to the penzoil folks, who are just distributors of the
stuff, and got the engineering lowdown on it. It is composed of 59%
R134A, 39% R124 and 2% butane. The refrigerant compounds are all
flurocarbon based but are apparently “less” ozone depleting than R12,
are not considered flammable, and thus earn the EPA SNAP
certification as legal. The ratio of capacity for FR12 to R12 is 90%
-
- in other words 0.9 lbs for every lb of R12 that would have been put
in the system. As far as compatibility with the rubber
seals in R12 systems, well, one has to take their word for it.
However, a large company like penzoil must have satisfied itself that
this is ok enough to not be highly liable in the short term (or so
the reasoning goes). Oh yeah, you have to evacuate every last bit
(and recycle of course) the old R12. New fittings need to be screwed
on top of the old R12 fittings in order to meet EPA regulations (actually
all gas fitting are different in the US to prevent accidental mixing
of the gases). I was quoted 10$ for the new fittings.
- in other words 0.9 lbs for every lb of R12 that would have been put
I used to do air-conditioning systems a decade or so ago and am going
to experiment with the FR12 in my truck before I apply it to my Jags.
I have all of the equipment to evacuate and charge the system (no
existing R12 in the truck so no need to recycle here).I called
Penzoil and got a price quote of 245$ for 30 lbs of the stuff. A
friend of mine who owns a repair shop is going to split the cost of
it with me and we are going to experiment on cars taht don’t really
matter. We have to get IMAC certified to buy the stuff but that only
costs 15$ and a simple test. I will keep you posted when I find out
how it goes.
Kind regards,
Jim Cantrell
76 XJ12C
76 XJ6C
66 Alpine 2.8 L
Dodge truck with soon to be FR12 refrigerant.
From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 11:08:08 MDT
Subject: Re: XJ6 Series III nasty transmission noise.
I once had a similar thing happen in a 4wd vehicle. It was
intermittent and usually taking off from a dead stop in the cold. It
I suspected u-joints as you do. It turned out to be the bolt holding
the ring gear to the carrier had come out and were occasionally
travelling through the geartrain. It was an ugly sight. I hope that
yours is only a u-joint.
Kind regards,
Jim Cantrell
76 XJ12C
76 XJ6C
From: Dan Graves dan@bimmer.rose.hp.com
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 96 10:19:18 PDT
Subject: Brian Chase? …
Sorry to bomb the list with this…
Hey Brian, I know you’re out there somewhere but I lost your email address.
Send me a note.
BTW, I just replaced the fuel pump on my '69 E-type OTS with an aftermarket
“Moprod” unit from XK’s Unlimited. It looks and sounds almost identical to
the stock pump with the exception of a hard plastic case. It uses the stock
mounting brackets and bolts right in place of the original. $59.95 + S/H +
tax for me (I’m in CA). And, I drove it to work today!!! 
Dan
From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 96 13:35:00 PDT
Subject: Clean engine compartment
Jack Bednarski asked about keeping the engine clean.
For a daily-driver kind of car, here's what I do:
I hand-wash my cars, and when I do that I pop the hood and give the
entire engine and ancillaries a good going-over with the hose. Same
with the oil pan and transmission. I'm careful to not spray too
intensely around the distributor, plug wires, brake fluid reservoir,
and carb or injectors. I've only once had a problem with getting the
inside of the distributor wet, since then I've been more careful.
This keeps the engine clean enough to not get your hands greasy when
repairing things, but it doesn't get it reeeeeally shiny.
Anyone do steam-cleans routinely? Are they recommended, or does it
hurt something?
David
From: CoastDA@aol.com
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 17:34:52 -0400
Subject: 1990 VDP air conditioning problem
I have a 90 VDP. In the last month the low and medium fan settings on the A/C
won’t work unless you FIRST turn the switch to high. Then the a/c started
blowing hot air. The local repair shop sez it will cost me US$280 in parts
and US$200 in labor because of a “leak in the high pressure hose” and that
all the freon leaks out.
I’m a lawyer, all I know is that the a/c isn’t working.
Any thoughts/suggestions appreciated:
From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 09:29:51 +1000 (EST)
Subject: ‘Factory’ R134A air con conversions
While on the topic of air conditioning,
There is an advertisment in Australian Jaguar magazine by Jaguar for
dealer fitted conversions to R134A for later cars. I gather this applies
to XJ S3 and later. Has anyone had any experience with this conversion?
Since my system has been disconnected for many years I guess I would need
to replace almost everything anyway… Or then again, I could fit a
supercharger in place of the the compressor and drive really fast with the
windows down.
regards,
Robert ‘thinking laterally’
Robert Dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **
From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 09:42:14 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Retorquing XK cylinder heads
Hi everyone,
Now that I beleive that I have finally stopped oil leaks from the cam
covers on my SII 4.2, I have noticed that there appears to be a leak from
the back of the head at the head gasket interface. I can confirm that
the leak is not from the external oil feed lines or banjo fitting nor from
the oil seals at the rear of the cam covers.
There is also a very minor weepage from the front LHS of the head, also at
the gasket interface extending to the timing chain cover.
My question is - can / should I retorque the head and could it possibly
help this condition?
Secondly, what is the recommended procedure for retorquing an XK head.
My engine is relatively ‘fresh’ (~20K km since rebuild) and has never had
the head retorqued. The head studs are stainless steel if that makes any
difference.
thanks,
Robert ‘in search of the leak free cat’
Robert Dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **
From: nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu (Nikolai Chitaev)
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 18:56:06 -0600
Subject: Theoretical question
Dear Jag-lovers.
Here comes the theoretical question about how ignition timing and let say
centrifugal and vacuum advance mechanisms would affect O2 sensor readings
over a wide range of rpm.
For instance, at 750 rpm the voltmeter at O2 sensor shows swing between
0.5-0.7 volt. However, what reading should be at 1200 rpm, 3000 rpm, and
4500 rpm, assuming that all the above mentioned mechanisms work perfect?
Should it be the same, or if changes, how?
Else, if ignition advances fail, would 02 reading serve as an indicator
that something is wrong with ignition advance, and if yes, how?
thanx in advance.
Nikolai A. Chitaev, PhD.
<<87`XJ6 4.2L, EFI, BRG>>
{nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu}
{http://128.252.119.253}
St.Louis, Missouri, USA
From: nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu (Nikolai Chitaev)
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 18:59:19 -0600
Subject: Repacing termostat
Dear friends.
Would someone describe, preferably in more detail, how to replace termostat
on 1987 XJ6 series 3. Engine 4.2 EFI. Starting from where its located and
so on…
Thanks in advance.
Nikolai A. Chitaev, PhD.
<<87`XJ6 4.2L, EFI, BRG>>
{nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu}
{http://128.252.119.253}
St.Louis, Missouri, USA
From: jorn@itn.is (Johann Orn Hedinsson)
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 00:59:32 +0000
Subject: concerned
Hi you guys.
Vlad, Mark, Hal, Larry, Gregory I appreciate coming back to the list and
finding you people as willing as ever.
And thanks for the info about the a/c I am going to do it like you
suggested i.e. asking a guy over to take care of it. I didnt know that this
Freon or what it is was so dangerous but I think that I heard something
about it beeing bad for the ozone layer or rather the whole in it which
incidently is up above me! So l think I will pay my dues and have it done
the right way.
Yea Gregory a friend of mine said it was like peeing on a church altar but
what the heck when you hear of something new you want to know about it,
well at least I do.
And Mark, in Iceland of all places.
Greetings from the frozen…
Johann Orn
From: “Robert Johnson, D.Sc.” bjomejag@sover.net
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 21:10:09 -0500
Subject: Re: armstrong steering
Ken Harder wrote:
My beautiful 88 jag xj40 soveriegn had a tune-up, new nitrogen bladder and
new hose( the one that costs 110.00) just before we took the car on a run
down the Oregon coast. It ran great and we got terrific gas milleage, all
was right with the world.
Last weekend, after parking at the airport for 2 and 1/2 days(very dusty
from airport construction)we experienced armstrong steering on the way out
of the parkade. This seemed to go away during the half hour trip home, but
is back again today, It is intermittent and occurs during low speeds.
What do you think? Could it be the power steering? The fluid level is perfect.
Help, Debbie
It sound like seals in the steering rack. This symptom, often refered
to as morning sickness, is caused by fluid leakage past the O-rings in
the control valves: As the oil warms up the seal occurs and the power
returns. Rebuilt racks are available and are not difficult to replace.
Bob,
SS1, Mk1,Mk7,Mk10 and current
From: “mark (m.d.) roberts” markdr@nortel.ca
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 15:16:00 -0400
Subject: A/C R-12 to R-134a Retro Kit
This may be interest to those thinking about changing their A/C systems
from R-12 to R-134a. It is a reprint of the Jaguar Technical Bulletin
on the subject, copied verbatum…errors, if any, included.
Technical Service Bulletin #8239 Date:940601
R134a RETROFIT KITS
82-39
R-134a Retrofit Kits
MODEL: All
Date:6/94
Jaguar Engineered kits are now available which convert R-12 charged
air conditioning refrigerent systems to HFC R-134a systems.
Should Jaguar owners wish to convert their R-12 systems at their own
expense, retro-fit kits are available as shown below. Retrofitting
procedures are shown in the Technical Guide - Air Conditioning System
- HFC Refrigerant Retrofit - Part Number JTP 425. Please file this
publication carefully as no additional copies are availabe.
NOTE:
The primary changes involve the replacement of the existing
compressor lubricating oil with an oil compatible with both
HFC R-134a refrigerant and with the residual R-12 lubricating
oil. It is not possible to completely flush R-12 type
lubricating oil from the refrigerant system prior to changing
to Ester oil and R-134a. Additionally it is necessary to
replace the input shaft seal of the compressor with a seal
compatible with the R-134a refrigerant and oil as described
in the manual.
PART COMPRESSOR V.I.N. REPAIR
NUMBER TYPE FITS RANGE TIME
JLM 11610 Sanden 510/709 XJ40 - 3.6/4.0 507471->667578 3.10 hrs.
1988-93
Sanden 709 XJS 4.0 179740->190527 3.35 hrs.
1993-94
Sanden 709 XJS 6.0 188105->190527 3.45 hrs.
1993
JLM 116101 Harrison Ser.III XJ6 4.2 330666-> 3.10 hrs.
1982-87
Ser.III XJ12 5.3 300001-> 3.10 hrs.
1979-92
XJS 5.3 100001->188104 3.10 hrs.
1979-92
Regards, Mark Roberts Phone: (613) 763-2924
Ottawa, Ontario, CANADA Fax: (613) 763-3970
1988 VDP - SIII V12 email: markdr@nortel.ca
1963 3.8L E-Type Coupe - 15 years into a 3 year project
From: dlfreeman@ipa.net (Dave & Linda Freeman)
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 19:56:24 -0500
Subject: Re: ‘Factory’ R134A air con conversions
While on the topic of air conditioning,
There is an advertisment in Australian Jaguar magazine by Jaguar for
dealer fitted conversions to R134A for later cars. I gather this applies
to XJ S3 and later. Has anyone had any experience with this conversion?Since my system has been disconnected for many years I guess I would need
to replace almost everything anyway… Or then again, I could fit a
supercharger in place of the the compressor and drive really fast with the
windows down.
Put on your shorts, take off your shirt, and go with plan B. It sounds
like a lot more fun.
regards,
Robert ‘thinking laterally’–
Robert Dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **
Dave and Linda ----- Living the good life!
From: dlfreeman@ipa.net (Dave & Linda Freeman)
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 19:56:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Clean engine compartment
Jack Bednarski asked about keeping the engine clean. For a daily-driver kind of car, here's what I do: I hand-wash my cars, and when I do that I pop the hood and give the entire engine and ancillaries a good going-over with the hose. Same with the oil pan and transmission. I'm careful to not spray too intensely around the distributor, plug wires, brake fluid reservoir, and carb or injectors. I've only once had a problem with getting the inside of the distributor wet, since then I've been more careful.
Try covering the distributor with a plastic baggie. It works for me.
This keeps the engine clean enough to not get your hands greasy when repairing things, but it doesn't get it reeeeeally shiny. Anyone do steam-cleans routinely? Are they recommended, or does it hurt something? David
Dave and Linda ----- Living the good life!
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 21:27:43 -0500
Subject: Wanted XJ6 with shot motor and tatty interior
I am now officialy in the matket for an XJ6 needing a transplant. My XJ6
was pronounced terminal by the insurance adjuster. Would like to find one
in Texas or in a nearby state that is drivable home. Engine is no problem,
interior is no problem, but the car has to be well priced and have a rust
free body. I would expect that a car with a good engine/good interior might
be out of my price range, but I will consider anything. I want another XJ6.
My car was hit on the passanger side so hard (60mph)that the un dammaged
doors on the drivers side are jamed shut!!
The bonnet, also visualy undammaged is jammed shut. The roof is kinked so
that the sun roof won’t open. The only orfice that will open is the boot lid!
The adjuster could not believe that my wife walked away from the collision.
She still has no reccolection of how she got out of the car and no one else
has any suggestions since all the doors are jamed shut!
I have a perfect Engine with TH350 transmission attached, 4 … er… no make
that 3 brand new tires, all new leather interior and a just rebuilt AC that
works perfectly, that are all untouched by the accident, but no place to put
them if I buy the wreck from the insurance company. (our subdivision wont
allow wrecks outside and the garage has an E-type and a Lola in it)
Jim
“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil
From: Jag140@aol.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 00:58:30 -0400
Subject: Splitting the list
I receive the digest, download it when necessary, and read it with my word
processor, printing those sections that I may need in the future… eg.
changing spark plugs in an xjs. (Don’t you all keep files on your jaguars?)
I think many of us have more than one Jaguar, and most that don’t hope to in
the future… I own more jaguars than is good for me, but I am prone to
excess. Most of my cars share the fabulous XK engine, rear suspension, etc.
and I find all of the postings interesting and useful.
If the list is split, I’m afraid all of us will miss some very good
exchanges…Imagine the tedium involved in reviewing several lists daily!! I
hope we can stay with the present format for some time longer.
Regards,
Michael Riley
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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 19 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 218
Re: Theoretical question
Re: request for info on XJR-S models
Re: Miracle “wax”.
Tranny for a Series III XJ6
Tranny for a Series III XJ6
Question
Re: She has run her last race…
Question
Re: She has run her last race…
Tranny for a Series III XJ6
Re: Engine cleaning
1980 XJ6 Headlamps
XJ-S Climate Control Vacuum Lines
XJ-S Climate Control Vacuum Lines
1980 XJ6 Headlamps
Re: Engine cleaning
Question
From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 15:09:53 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: Theoretical question
Nikolai asks,
Here comes the theoretical question about how ignition timing and let say
centrifugal and vacuum advance mechanisms would affect O2 sensor readings
over a wide range of rpm.
For instance, at 750 rpm the voltmeter at O2 sensor shows swing between
0.5-0.7 volt. However, what reading should be at 1200 rpm, 3000 rpm, and
4500 rpm, assuming that all the above mentioned mechanisms work perfect?
Should it be the same, or if changes, how?
The output of the O2 sensor is only meaningful around stoichiometric air
fuel ratios where the output abruptly switches. While your engine is
operating in closed loop mode, the output of the O2 sensor should oscillate
around 0.5 volts. There are some operating conditions where the system
will operate in open loop without the aid the sensor. These conditions may
include wide open throttle, deceleration, cold O2 sensor and highway cruising.
Else, if ignition advances fail, would 02 reading serve as an indicator
that something is wrong with ignition advance, and if yes, how?
No. The ignition timing barely affects the output of the O2 sensor, if
at all. Once you system is operating in closed loop, it would compensate
for any minor changes in other operating conditions.
regards,
Robert
Robert Dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **
From: “Richard.Mansell” Richard.Mansell@psemail.ps.net
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 1996 23:00:00 +0100
Subject: Re: request for info on XJR-S models
- ------ =_0_MIME_Boundary_17892.31ef1dfb.im8s2ty0.eurh021.eur.ps.net
Content-Type: text/plain; name=“Authorized by…”; charset=us-ascii
Message authorized by:
: /S=TezFair@aol.com/O=SMTP/P=PSC/A=MCI/C=US/ at ccx400uk
-
------ =_0_MIME_Boundary_17892.31ef1dfb.im8s2ty0.eurh021.eur.ps.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printableBrian
I have just got back from a motoring event at Silverstone race track =
in England=2e There was an autojumble there and one of the stalls was =
=selling original TWR sales brochures for =a33=2c listing all of the =
options available=2e There is also a road test of a TWR XJ-S in the =
1975-1988 Jaguar XJS Gold portfolio=2e
Having just purchased an 89 XJ-S that the PO was trying to sell as an =
=XJR-S I have made a point of reading up about them to find out which =
bits of an XJR-S were actually on my car=2e
I believe that there were quite a few options available from TWR =
including bodykit=2c suspension modifications =28uprated front springs=
=2c gas =filled dampers=29=2c steering mods=2c tuned exhaust=2c a 6=2e0 380bhp =
engine and =5 speed manual ZF gearbox=2e Four caliper alloy brakes were offered on=
=the front with ventilated disks on the rear=2e Re-valving of the auto =
box =was an option=2e
Apart from the manual gearbox and 6=2e0L engine most of the options we=
re =carried over to the Jaguar Sport XJR-S=2e =
=
The official Jaguar version was first sold in August 1988=2e They were=
=made by Jaguar Sport who were owned 50=2f50 by Jaguar and Tom =
Walkinshaw=2e They began operating in Kidlington=2c the home of the TW=
R =race team=2e
Cars=2c ordered through 20 selected dealers=2c were built as standard =
at =Browns Lane then delivered to Kidlington minus bumpers but trimmed to =
=the Jaguar Sport spec=2e Once finished they were sent back to Jaguar f=
or =dispatch to the dealer=2e
The original modifications included body colour front air dam=2c side =
=skirts=2c rear apron and boot mounted wing=2e The engine was the stand=
ard =5=2e3 engine but the front springs and were uprated along with uprated=
=dampers all round=2e The steering rack bushes and rear radius arm fron=
t =bushes were also stiffer=2e The steering rack was re-valved to give le=
ss =assistance=2e The cars were re-badged XJR-S=2e A factory ordered XJR-S=
=should have the letter S as the fifth letter of the VIN number=2e
The wheels were 15=22 Speedline alloys with 7=2e5 inch rims and wider =
low =profile tyres=2e
=
Towards the end of 1989 the XJR-S received a 6=2e0 litre=2c 318bhp eng=
ine =with modified cold air intakes=2e The wheels were now 16=22 by 8=22 wi=
th =225=2f50 front tyres and 245=2f55 rears=2e The front springs were upra=
ted =again along with the rear springs=2e
Other modifications appear to have been four exhaust outlets=2c red =
camshaft covers=2c =3bleather covered steering wheel and gear shift kn=
ob=2e =The leather seats had contrasting piping and stitching as well as =
XJR-S embossed on the head rests=2e The gearbox was revalved to give =
better response=2e
There were more suspension changes and more engine modifications in =
1992=2e
Jaguar Sport later moved to Bloxham where owners could put their =
standard XJ-S’s through the FAB =28fitted at Bloxham=29 scheme to have=
=their car turned into an XJR-S=2e The only part not retro-fitted was =
the XJR-S Jaguar Sport badge=2e This appears to be what has happened =
to my car although not all options were fitted=2e =
=
The XJR-S became obsolete when the standard car received a 6=2e0L engi=
ne =in 1993=2e
All of the above is extracted from books so the info is only as =
accurate as they are=2e
Richard
=
=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=
=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f Forward Header =
=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=
=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f
Subject=3a Re=3a request for info on XJR-S models
Author=3a =2fS=3downer-jag-lovers=40sn=2eno=2fO=3dSMTP=2fP=3dPSC=2fA=3dMCI=
=2fC=3dUS=2f at ccx400uk =
Date=3a 15=2f07=2f96 18=3a47
=
=
=3cI would appreciate any information relative to the TWR -based XJR-S=2c s=
old =
in
the early '80’s=2e What options did these cars have not found on the regul=
ar =
XJS=3f I have a chance to purchase an '85 XJR-S=2c and don’t have much =
information on this model derivative=2e Thanks in advance-
Brian Sherwood=3e
=
=
The basic difference of the XJR-S over a standard XJS was the 6=2e0L V12 =
engine=2c sports steering and suspension=2c and odd sized wheels=2e Oh and =
a fancy =
rear quarter light=21=21=2e Other than that its much the same=2e
I remember building them years ago=2c doesn’t time fly when your having fun=
=21=21
=
Terry Fairbrother
http=3a=2f=2fmembers=2eaol=2ecom=2ftezfair=2fford=2ehtml
- ------ =_0_MIME_Boundary_17892.31ef1dfb.im8s2ty0.eurh021.eur.ps.net–
From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 11:36:53 -0700
Subject: Re: Miracle “wax”.
Hi guys,
'Any of you heard about “Dura Shine”?
I saw a commercial presentation of this miraculous stuff on TV last night. It’s
said to be extremely resistant to anything from acid rain to laser beams(!)
Also, it is supposed to have an extreme rust-preventing ability and you “…never
have to take your car to the car wash again…”. The idea is that you just hose
the car down when dusty or dirty. The dirt will run off and so will the water,
leaving no beads and, conesequently, water stains.
At 29.95 I thought I’d give it a go. Just wanted to check with you lot first to
see if it’s for real.
Cheers!
Baard
______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no
From: Harjit Singh harjit@kinkos.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 06:30:10 -0700
Subject: Tranny for a Series III XJ6
Hi everybody,
Would anybody out there know if there is any replacement Transmission
produced by GM or Ford that would replace the original 84 XJ6?
My has given out on me and I have heard that there is an OEM tranny that
fits to the bolt.
Is there such an animal?
Thanks
From: Harjit Singh harjit@kinkos.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 06:30:10 -0700
Subject: Tranny for a Series III XJ6
Hi everybody,
Would anybody out there know if there is any replacement Transmission
produced by GM or Ford that would replace the original 84 XJ6?
My has given out on me and I have heard that there is an OEM tranny that
fits to the bolt.
Is there such an animal?
Thanks
From: jwalters@biddeford.com (John Walters)
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 09:51:38 -0400
Subject: Question
Hello
I am new to this conference and need advice. I do not now have a Jaguar but
am very seriously considering buying a new ’ 96 XJ6. I live in rural Maine
-
- there is no dealer in the state - and face a 2+ hour drive to a dealer in
Manchester, NH or even further to dealers in suburban Boston.
I understand there is a good independent garage 40 miles away in Portland
but have not yet checked it out. I am interested in having a reliable car;
my questions are:
- there is no dealer in the state - and face a 2+ hour drive to a dealer in
-
Is the new XJ6 REALLY any more reliable than its predecessors?
- electrical & electronic systems?
- motor, transmission, and running systems? -
Is it likely to leak oil, coolant, transmission fluid?
-
Can I plan on having the Portland garage do oil changes and minor
tuneups with the dealer doing the heavy stuff, or is it likely that I will
face a lot of initial warranty work that I can only get done at the
dealership? Can I expect a lot of initial warranty work? -
What are the weak points in the XJ6 and what are the strong points?
-
Does anyone have any recommendation regarding a dealership?
Thanks in advance for any help or comments you might have.
/John Walters
John Walters
P.O. Box 81
Phippsburg, Maine 04562
(207) 389-2152
jwalters@biddeford.com
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 09:53:12 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: She has run her last race…
I’d say your idea is the way to go. Let the insurance company total the
car, but negotiate hard to get the upper limit of value based on the new
parts, interior, etc. Then deduct the salvage value (maybe $300) and
keep the title. Buy the best body you can and you should come out pretty
even (except for your labor ) and you’ll have a nice pile of spare
parts, too boot.
On Tue, 16 Jul 1996, Jim Isbell wrote:
In one fell swoop my wife solved all the XJ6s problems. No more
overheating, no more leaking, no more not starting. She has died perhaps
never to be resurected.At 9:40 this morning while negotiating a left ture (not much real
negotiation here. The othe car refused to budge) she was hit on the
passanger side at the front wheel and sliding back to include both doors.
The front wheel is tucked under (bad sign?) the windshield is popped out and
the LEFT front door is binding ('nother bad sign?). The first pro to look at
it said at least three grand. Since the book value is 5.5 grand I guess the
insurance co will total it… I will never be able to replace it for $5,500.Does anyone have any suggestions on how to convince the insurance co that it
is worth more with the brand new leather interior, impecable maintenance,
and an engine so good that it races competitively even though it has 115K
miles on it?I guess I should be looking for one with a shot interior, blown engine and a
great body. Sounds like my wife…#8-)Jim===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: jwalters@biddeford.com (John Walters)
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 09:51:38 -0400
Subject: Question
Hello
I am new to this conference and need advice. I do not now have a Jaguar but
am very seriously considering buying a new ’ 96 XJ6. I live in rural Maine
-
- there is no dealer in the state - and face a 2+ hour drive to a dealer in
Manchester, NH or even further to dealers in suburban Boston.
I understand there is a good independent garage 40 miles away in Portland
but have not yet checked it out. I am interested in having a reliable car;
my questions are:
- there is no dealer in the state - and face a 2+ hour drive to a dealer in
-
Is the new XJ6 REALLY any more reliable than its predecessors?
- electrical & electronic systems?
- motor, transmission, and running systems? -
Is it likely to leak oil, coolant, transmission fluid?
-
Can I plan on having the Portland garage do oil changes and minor
tuneups with the dealer doing the heavy stuff, or is it likely that I will
face a lot of initial warranty work that I can only get done at the
dealership? Can I expect a lot of initial warranty work? -
What are the weak points in the XJ6 and what are the strong points?
-
Does anyone have any recommendation regarding a dealership?
Thanks in advance for any help or comments you might have.
/John Walters
John Walters
P.O. Box 81
Phippsburg, Maine 04562
(207) 389-2152
jwalters@biddeford.com
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 09:53:12 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: She has run her last race…
I’d say your idea is the way to go. Let the insurance company total the
car, but negotiate hard to get the upper limit of value based on the new
parts, interior, etc. Then deduct the salvage value (maybe $300) and
keep the title. Buy the best body you can and you should come out pretty
even (except for your labor ) and you’ll have a nice pile of spare
parts, too boot.
On Tue, 16 Jul 1996, Jim Isbell wrote:
In one fell swoop my wife solved all the XJ6s problems. No more
overheating, no more leaking, no more not starting. She has died perhaps
never to be resurected.At 9:40 this morning while negotiating a left ture (not much real
negotiation here. The othe car refused to budge) she was hit on the
passanger side at the front wheel and sliding back to include both doors.
The front wheel is tucked under (bad sign?) the windshield is popped out and
the LEFT front door is binding ('nother bad sign?). The first pro to look at
it said at least three grand. Since the book value is 5.5 grand I guess the
insurance co will total it… I will never be able to replace it for $5,500.Does anyone have any suggestions on how to convince the insurance co that it
is worth more with the brand new leather interior, impecable maintenance,
and an engine so good that it races competitively even though it has 115K
miles on it?I guess I should be looking for one with a shot interior, blown engine and a
great body. Sounds like my wife…#8-)Jim===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: Harjit Singh harjit@kinkos.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 06:30:10 -0700
Subject: Tranny for a Series III XJ6
Hi everybody,
Would anybody out there know if there is any replacement Transmission
produced by GM or Ford that would replace the original 84 XJ6?
My has given out on me and I have heard that there is an OEM tranny that
fits to the bolt.
Is there such an animal?
Thanks
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 10:21:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Engine cleaning
When cleaning a really dirty engine for the first time (I routinely wash
the engine compartments on all our vehicles) I’ll use whatever works,
depending on how bad it is. Real bad, old paintbrushes and solvent, as
well as a siphon-fed nozzle hooked up to the air compressor. Not too
bad, Gunk from Price Club (real cheap). Gunk is OK but it leaves a film
that must be removed by washing with a good quality car wash soap. For
maintenance I use soap and sponges, brushes or spray with Gunk on bad
areas. There are several things to watch out for: 1. Any ‘manly’ cleaner
will leave either a raw finish and/or a film. This must be washed off.
2. A perfectly clean engine has little ‘sparkle’. To liven things up,
something must be added. A common used-car preparation trick is to spray
the cleaned engine with clear lacquer. This is fast but temporary and
not too repeatable when it all starts to peel. I use a dressing spray
bought in bulk from a car wash supply store. I decant it into spray
bottles and spritz it generously over everything. Adds gloss, lasts for
months, no damage to anything, easily renewed, even smells nice. 3.
Most people tell you to wrap distributors, carberetors and such. I never
have and have never had a problem, and my cars get no more routine
maintenance than would be expected. I do usually start the beasts
afterwards and let them idle for awhile.
I’m sure that I’ll get several postings telling me why this can’t work
and how I’m destroying our cars. Well, it works, has worked for
fifteen-plus years (in some cases on the same cars) and works equally
well on trailer queens and vehicles we accumulate mileage on at the rate
of 50K miles per year.
On Thu, 18 Jul 1996, Jack Bednarski wrote:
We all have our favorite method of keeping the exterior of our cars looking
like new, but what is the best way to keep the engine clean? A lot of
people like to look over these cars and ask if they can see the engine
compartment. It would be embarrassing to have a dirty engine. Any good ideas?
From: Tommy loner@peterboro.net
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 10:32:29 -0400
Subject: 1980 XJ6 Headlamps
Hey All!
Can anyone advise me on the proper headlamp "configuration" for my 1980 =
XJ6 (as in series 3). I stripped the car’s trim for a respray and I’m =
going through the tedious task of reassembling.
Unfortunately, my memory is not as good as I thought and the vidoetape =
I took of the car prior to starting my project seems to miss a few key =
areas.
-
Do the headlamps with the three prongs go into the wing’s (as in =
fenders) “eyes” and do the headlamps with the two prongs go into the =
bonnet’s “eyes”? Or vice versa? -
Are the three pronged headlamps the high beams and the two pronged =
headlamps the low beams? I get the feeling that the three pronged =
headlamps serve a dual purpose - low and high beams - hence the two =
filaments within.PLEASE, someone straighten me out on this quandary.
By the way, my =
“do-it-yourself-homemade-under-the-tent-with-the-dirt-floor” body and =
paint work on the above car: I was hoping to do better, but afraid I =
would do worse. I think most would give it an 8 or 9 out of 10.
Thanks for your help!
Tommy.
loner@peterboro.net
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 10:45:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: XJ-S Climate Control Vacuum Lines
OK, guys, I need some help. I am in the middle of modifying my
climate control system ('82 XJ-S HE) and before I mess with the vacuum
servo ‘logic’ I want to make sure that I know what was. Problem is that
there are several clues pointing out that the system has been violated by
persons unkown – bits of odd vacuum line patched in here and there.
The issue for me is not the vacuum piping to the dashpots, but the main
vacuum feed from the engine and the vacuum lines to the dash selector
switsh and master servo.
Hunt Dabney was going to send me the routing, but he has disappeared (are
you out there, Hunt? I hope you’re OK.). Michael Neal hasn’t replied (are
you mad at me, Michael? It’s not like I’ve got a 327 under the hood!).
Kirby is apparently still exploring the southern hemispere.
Can anybody help? Thanks in advance.
(BTW, if anyone is interested, I’ll be happy to describe the control
changes I ultimately make.)
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 10:45:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: XJ-S Climate Control Vacuum Lines
OK, guys, I need some help. I am in the middle of modifying my
climate control system ('82 XJ-S HE) and before I mess with the vacuum
servo ‘logic’ I want to make sure that I know what was. Problem is that
there are several clues pointing out that the system has been violated by
persons unkown – bits of odd vacuum line patched in here and there.
The issue for me is not the vacuum piping to the dashpots, but the main
vacuum feed from the engine and the vacuum lines to the dash selector
switsh and master servo.
Hunt Dabney was going to send me the routing, but he has disappeared (are
you out there, Hunt? I hope you’re OK.). Michael Neal hasn’t replied (are
you mad at me, Michael? It’s not like I’ve got a 327 under the hood!).
Kirby is apparently still exploring the southern hemispere.
Can anybody help? Thanks in advance.
(BTW, if anyone is interested, I’ll be happy to describe the control
changes I ultimately make.)
From: Tommy loner@peterboro.net
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 10:32:29 -0400
Subject: 1980 XJ6 Headlamps
Hey All!
Can anyone advise me on the proper headlamp "configuration" for my 1980 =
XJ6 (as in series 3). I stripped the car’s trim for a respray and I’m =
going through the tedious task of reassembling.
Unfortunately, my memory is not as good as I thought and the vidoetape =
I took of the car prior to starting my project seems to miss a few key =
areas.
-
Do the headlamps with the three prongs go into the wing’s (as in =
fenders) “eyes” and do the headlamps with the two prongs go into the =
bonnet’s “eyes”? Or vice versa? -
Are the three pronged headlamps the high beams and the two pronged =
headlamps the low beams? I get the feeling that the three pronged =
headlamps serve a dual purpose - low and high beams - hence the two =
filaments within.PLEASE, someone straighten me out on this quandary.
By the way, my =
“do-it-yourself-homemade-under-the-tent-with-the-dirt-floor” body and =
paint work on the above car: I was hoping to do better, but afraid I =
would do worse. I think most would give it an 8 or 9 out of 10.
Thanks for your help!
Tommy.
loner@peterboro.net
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 10:21:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Engine cleaning
When cleaning a really dirty engine for the first time (I routinely wash
the engine compartments on all our vehicles) I’ll use whatever works,
depending on how bad it is. Real bad, old paintbrushes and solvent, as
well as a siphon-fed nozzle hooked up to the air compressor. Not too
bad, Gunk from Price Club (real cheap). Gunk is OK but it leaves a film
that must be removed by washing with a good quality car wash soap. For
maintenance I use soap and sponges, brushes or spray with Gunk on bad
areas. There are several things to watch out for: 1. Any ‘manly’ cleaner
will leave either a raw finish and/or a film. This must be washed off.
2. A perfectly clean engine has little ‘sparkle’. To liven things up,
something must be added. A common used-car preparation trick is to spray
the cleaned engine with clear lacquer. This is fast but temporary and
not too repeatable when it all starts to peel. I use a dressing spray
bought in bulk from a car wash supply store. I decant it into spray
bottles and spritz it generously over everything. Adds gloss, lasts for
months, no damage to anything, easily renewed, even smells nice. 3.
Most people tell you to wrap distributors, carberetors and such. I never
have and have never had a problem, and my cars get no more routine
maintenance than would be expected. I do usually start the beasts
afterwards and let them idle for awhile.
I’m sure that I’ll get several postings telling me why this can’t work
and how I’m destroying our cars. Well, it works, has worked for
fifteen-plus years (in some cases on the same cars) and works equally
well on trailer queens and vehicles we accumulate mileage on at the rate
of 50K miles per year.
On Thu, 18 Jul 1996, Jack Bednarski wrote:
We all have our favorite method of keeping the exterior of our cars looking
like new, but what is the best way to keep the engine clean? A lot of
people like to look over these cars and ask if they can see the engine
compartment. It would be embarrassing to have a dirty engine. Any good ideas?
From: jwalters@biddeford.com (John Walters)
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 09:51:38 -0400
Subject: Question
Hello
I am new to this conference and need advice. I do not now have a Jaguar but
am very seriously considering buying a new ’ 96 XJ6. I live in rural Maine
-
- there is no dealer in the state - and face a 2+ hour drive to a dealer in
Manchester, NH or even further to dealers in suburban Boston.
I understand there is a good independent garage 40 miles away in Portland
but have not yet checked it out. I am interested in having a reliable car;
my questions are:
- there is no dealer in the state - and face a 2+ hour drive to a dealer in
-
Is the new XJ6 REALLY any more reliable than its predecessors?
- electrical & electronic systems?
- motor, transmission, and running systems? -
Is it likely to leak oil, coolant, transmission fluid?
-
Can I plan on having the Portland garage do oil changes and minor
tuneups with the dealer doing the heavy stuff, or is it likely that I will
face a lot of initial warranty work that I can only get done at the
dealership? Can I expect a lot of initial warranty work? -
What are the weak points in the XJ6 and what are the strong points?
-
Does anyone have any recommendation regarding a dealership?
Thanks in advance for any help or comments you might have.
/John Walters
John Walters
P.O. Box 81
Phippsburg, Maine 04562
(207) 389-2152
jwalters@biddeford.com
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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 19 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 219
Bearing unmount on a S-type
Re: She has run her last race…
Tranny for a Series III XJ6
Bearing unmount on a S-type
XJ-S Climate Control Vacuum Lines
1980 XJ6 Headlamps
Re: Engine cleaning
Question
Re: She has run her last race…
Tranny for a Series III XJ6
E-type clock
E-type clock
Bearing unmount on a S-type
XJ-S Climate Control Vacuum Lines
1980 XJ6 Headlamps
Re: Engine cleaning
Question
Re: She has run her last race…
Tranny for a Series III XJ6
E-type clock
From: Yves Hiltpold hiltpold@cui.unige.ch
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 16:49:14 -0200
Subject: Bearing unmount on a S-type
Hi Jag Lovers !
I’m working on the front suspension of my s-type. I want to check the
bearings. I have been able to remove the outer hub bearing, but not the
inner one. How do I remove the inner hub seal ? How is it fixed ? It seems
it has been forced in the hub. Any idea ?
By the way, to unmount the rear brake caliper I have to take the rear
suspension off the car. Is that right ?
As any one of you done this ? Any particular problems ?
Thanks for any help !
Yves Hiltpold - S-type 3.8
Geneva - Switzerland
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 09:53:12 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: She has run her last race…
I’d say your idea is the way to go. Let the insurance company total the
car, but negotiate hard to get the upper limit of value based on the new
parts, interior, etc. Then deduct the salvage value (maybe $300) and
keep the title. Buy the best body you can and you should come out pretty
even (except for your labor ) and you’ll have a nice pile of spare
parts, too boot.
On Tue, 16 Jul 1996, Jim Isbell wrote:
In one fell swoop my wife solved all the XJ6s problems. No more
overheating, no more leaking, no more not starting. She has died perhaps
never to be resurected.At 9:40 this morning while negotiating a left ture (not much real
negotiation here. The othe car refused to budge) she was hit on the
passanger side at the front wheel and sliding back to include both doors.
The front wheel is tucked under (bad sign?) the windshield is popped out and
the LEFT front door is binding ('nother bad sign?). The first pro to look at
it said at least three grand. Since the book value is 5.5 grand I guess the
insurance co will total it… I will never be able to replace it for $5,500.Does anyone have any suggestions on how to convince the insurance co that it
is worth more with the brand new leather interior, impecable maintenance,
and an engine so good that it races competitively even though it has 115K
miles on it?I guess I should be looking for one with a shot interior, blown engine and a
great body. Sounds like my wife…#8-)Jim===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: Harjit Singh harjit@kinkos.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 06:30:10 -0700
Subject: Tranny for a Series III XJ6
Hi everybody,
Would anybody out there know if there is any replacement Transmission
produced by GM or Ford that would replace the original 84 XJ6?
My has given out on me and I have heard that there is an OEM tranny that
fits to the bolt.
Is there such an animal?
Thanks
From: Yves Hiltpold hiltpold@cui.unige.ch
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 16:49:14 -0200
Subject: Bearing unmount on a S-type
Hi Jag Lovers !
I’m working on the front suspension of my s-type. I want to check the
bearings. I have been able to remove the outer hub bearing, but not the
inner one. How do I remove the inner hub seal ? How is it fixed ? It seems
it has been forced in the hub. Any idea ?
By the way, to unmount the rear brake caliper I have to take the rear
suspension off the car. Is that right ?
As any one of you done this ? Any particular problems ?
Thanks for any help !
Yves Hiltpold - S-type 3.8
Geneva - Switzerland
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 10:45:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: XJ-S Climate Control Vacuum Lines
OK, guys, I need some help. I am in the middle of modifying my
climate control system ('82 XJ-S HE) and before I mess with the vacuum
servo ‘logic’ I want to make sure that I know what was. Problem is that
there are several clues pointing out that the system has been violated by
persons unkown – bits of odd vacuum line patched in here and there.
The issue for me is not the vacuum piping to the dashpots, but the main
vacuum feed from the engine and the vacuum lines to the dash selector
switsh and master servo.
Hunt Dabney was going to send me the routing, but he has disappeared (are
you out there, Hunt? I hope you’re OK.). Michael Neal hasn’t replied (are
you mad at me, Michael? It’s not like I’ve got a 327 under the hood!).
Kirby is apparently still exploring the southern hemispere.
Can anybody help? Thanks in advance.
(BTW, if anyone is interested, I’ll be happy to describe the control
changes I ultimately make.)
From: Tommy loner@peterboro.net
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 10:32:29 -0400
Subject: 1980 XJ6 Headlamps
Hey All!
Can anyone advise me on the proper headlamp "configuration" for my 1980 =
XJ6 (as in series 3). I stripped the car’s trim for a respray and I’m =
going through the tedious task of reassembling.
Unfortunately, my memory is not as good as I thought and the vidoetape =
I took of the car prior to starting my project seems to miss a few key =
areas.
-
Do the headlamps with the three prongs go into the wing’s (as in =
fenders) “eyes” and do the headlamps with the two prongs go into the =
bonnet’s “eyes”? Or vice versa? -
Are the three pronged headlamps the high beams and the two pronged =
headlamps the low beams? I get the feeling that the three pronged =
headlamps serve a dual purpose - low and high beams - hence the two =
filaments within.PLEASE, someone straighten me out on this quandary.
By the way, my =
“do-it-yourself-homemade-under-the-tent-with-the-dirt-floor” body and =
paint work on the above car: I was hoping to do better, but afraid I =
would do worse. I think most would give it an 8 or 9 out of 10.
Thanks for your help!
Tommy.
loner@peterboro.net
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 10:21:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Engine cleaning
When cleaning a really dirty engine for the first time (I routinely wash
the engine compartments on all our vehicles) I’ll use whatever works,
depending on how bad it is. Real bad, old paintbrushes and solvent, as
well as a siphon-fed nozzle hooked up to the air compressor. Not too
bad, Gunk from Price Club (real cheap). Gunk is OK but it leaves a film
that must be removed by washing with a good quality car wash soap. For
maintenance I use soap and sponges, brushes or spray with Gunk on bad
areas. There are several things to watch out for: 1. Any ‘manly’ cleaner
will leave either a raw finish and/or a film. This must be washed off.
2. A perfectly clean engine has little ‘sparkle’. To liven things up,
something must be added. A common used-car preparation trick is to spray
the cleaned engine with clear lacquer. This is fast but temporary and
not too repeatable when it all starts to peel. I use a dressing spray
bought in bulk from a car wash supply store. I decant it into spray
bottles and spritz it generously over everything. Adds gloss, lasts for
months, no damage to anything, easily renewed, even smells nice. 3.
Most people tell you to wrap distributors, carberetors and such. I never
have and have never had a problem, and my cars get no more routine
maintenance than would be expected. I do usually start the beasts
afterwards and let them idle for awhile.
I’m sure that I’ll get several postings telling me why this can’t work
and how I’m destroying our cars. Well, it works, has worked for
fifteen-plus years (in some cases on the same cars) and works equally
well on trailer queens and vehicles we accumulate mileage on at the rate
of 50K miles per year.
On Thu, 18 Jul 1996, Jack Bednarski wrote:
We all have our favorite method of keeping the exterior of our cars looking
like new, but what is the best way to keep the engine clean? A lot of
people like to look over these cars and ask if they can see the engine
compartment. It would be embarrassing to have a dirty engine. Any good ideas?
From: jwalters@biddeford.com (John Walters)
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 09:51:38 -0400
Subject: Question
Hello
I am new to this conference and need advice. I do not now have a Jaguar but
am very seriously considering buying a new ’ 96 XJ6. I live in rural Maine
-
- there is no dealer in the state - and face a 2+ hour drive to a dealer in
Manchester, NH or even further to dealers in suburban Boston.
I understand there is a good independent garage 40 miles away in Portland
but have not yet checked it out. I am interested in having a reliable car;
my questions are:
- there is no dealer in the state - and face a 2+ hour drive to a dealer in
-
Is the new XJ6 REALLY any more reliable than its predecessors?
- electrical & electronic systems?
- motor, transmission, and running systems? -
Is it likely to leak oil, coolant, transmission fluid?
-
Can I plan on having the Portland garage do oil changes and minor
tuneups with the dealer doing the heavy stuff, or is it likely that I will
face a lot of initial warranty work that I can only get done at the
dealership? Can I expect a lot of initial warranty work? -
What are the weak points in the XJ6 and what are the strong points?
-
Does anyone have any recommendation regarding a dealership?
Thanks in advance for any help or comments you might have.
/John Walters
John Walters
P.O. Box 81
Phippsburg, Maine 04562
(207) 389-2152
jwalters@biddeford.com
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 09:53:12 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: She has run her last race…
I’d say your idea is the way to go. Let the insurance company total the
car, but negotiate hard to get the upper limit of value based on the new
parts, interior, etc. Then deduct the salvage value (maybe $300) and
keep the title. Buy the best body you can and you should come out pretty
even (except for your labor ) and you’ll have a nice pile of spare
parts, too boot.
On Tue, 16 Jul 1996, Jim Isbell wrote:
In one fell swoop my wife solved all the XJ6s problems. No more
overheating, no more leaking, no more not starting. She has died perhaps
never to be resurected.At 9:40 this morning while negotiating a left ture (not much real
negotiation here. The othe car refused to budge) she was hit on the
passanger side at the front wheel and sliding back to include both doors.
The front wheel is tucked under (bad sign?) the windshield is popped out and
the LEFT front door is binding ('nother bad sign?). The first pro to look at
it said at least three grand. Since the book value is 5.5 grand I guess the
insurance co will total it… I will never be able to replace it for $5,500.Does anyone have any suggestions on how to convince the insurance co that it
is worth more with the brand new leather interior, impecable maintenance,
and an engine so good that it races competitively even though it has 115K
miles on it?I guess I should be looking for one with a shot interior, blown engine and a
great body. Sounds like my wife…#8-)Jim===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: Harjit Singh harjit@kinkos.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 06:30:10 -0700
Subject: Tranny for a Series III XJ6
Hi everybody,
Would anybody out there know if there is any replacement Transmission
produced by GM or Ford that would replace the original 84 XJ6?
My has given out on me and I have heard that there is an OEM tranny that
fits to the bolt.
Is there such an animal?
Thanks
From: Robert_Abascal@ccmail.orl.mmc.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 11:12 -0500 (EST)
Subject: E-type clock
I have two broken clocks for the E-types.
It appears that the plastic contact assembly has deteriorated.
Has anyone repaired or can recommend someone that repairs these
clocks. I've called several shops advertised in Hemmings and they
won't touch them with a ten foot pole. Does anyone retrofit modern
guts for these clocks. Any help is appreciated.
Robert Abascal '63 OTS and '66 Coupe XKE
From: Robert_Abascal@ccmail.orl.mmc.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 11:12 -0500 (EST)
Subject: E-type clock
I have two broken clocks for the E-types.
It appears that the plastic contact assembly has deteriorated.
Has anyone repaired or can recommend someone that repairs these
clocks. I've called several shops advertised in Hemmings and they
won't touch them with a ten foot pole. Does anyone retrofit modern
guts for these clocks. Any help is appreciated.
Robert Abascal '63 OTS and '66 Coupe XKE
From: Yves Hiltpold hiltpold@cui.unige.ch
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 16:49:14 -0200
Subject: Bearing unmount on a S-type
Hi Jag Lovers !
I’m working on the front suspension of my s-type. I want to check the
bearings. I have been able to remove the outer hub bearing, but not the
inner one. How do I remove the inner hub seal ? How is it fixed ? It seems
it has been forced in the hub. Any idea ?
By the way, to unmount the rear brake caliper I have to take the rear
suspension off the car. Is that right ?
As any one of you done this ? Any particular problems ?
Thanks for any help !
Yves Hiltpold - S-type 3.8
Geneva - Switzerland
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 10:45:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: XJ-S Climate Control Vacuum Lines
OK, guys, I need some help. I am in the middle of modifying my
climate control system ('82 XJ-S HE) and before I mess with the vacuum
servo ‘logic’ I want to make sure that I know what was. Problem is that
there are several clues pointing out that the system has been violated by
persons unkown – bits of odd vacuum line patched in here and there.
The issue for me is not the vacuum piping to the dashpots, but the main
vacuum feed from the engine and the vacuum lines to the dash selector
switsh and master servo.
Hunt Dabney was going to send me the routing, but he has disappeared (are
you out there, Hunt? I hope you’re OK.). Michael Neal hasn’t replied (are
you mad at me, Michael? It’s not like I’ve got a 327 under the hood!).
Kirby is apparently still exploring the southern hemispere.
Can anybody help? Thanks in advance.
(BTW, if anyone is interested, I’ll be happy to describe the control
changes I ultimately make.)
From: Tommy loner@peterboro.net
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 10:32:29 -0400
Subject: 1980 XJ6 Headlamps
Hey All!
Can anyone advise me on the proper headlamp "configuration" for my 1980 =
XJ6 (as in series 3). I stripped the car’s trim for a respray and I’m =
going through the tedious task of reassembling.
Unfortunately, my memory is not as good as I thought and the vidoetape =
I took of the car prior to starting my project seems to miss a few key =
areas.
-
Do the headlamps with the three prongs go into the wing’s (as in =
fenders) “eyes” and do the headlamps with the two prongs go into the =
bonnet’s “eyes”? Or vice versa? -
Are the three pronged headlamps the high beams and the two pronged =
headlamps the low beams? I get the feeling that the three pronged =
headlamps serve a dual purpose - low and high beams - hence the two =
filaments within.PLEASE, someone straighten me out on this quandary.
By the way, my =
“do-it-yourself-homemade-under-the-tent-with-the-dirt-floor” body and =
paint work on the above car: I was hoping to do better, but afraid I =
would do worse. I think most would give it an 8 or 9 out of 10.
Thanks for your help!
Tommy.
loner@peterboro.net
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 10:21:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Engine cleaning
When cleaning a really dirty engine for the first time (I routinely wash
the engine compartments on all our vehicles) I’ll use whatever works,
depending on how bad it is. Real bad, old paintbrushes and solvent, as
well as a siphon-fed nozzle hooked up to the air compressor. Not too
bad, Gunk from Price Club (real cheap). Gunk is OK but it leaves a film
that must be removed by washing with a good quality car wash soap. For
maintenance I use soap and sponges, brushes or spray with Gunk on bad
areas. There are several things to watch out for: 1. Any ‘manly’ cleaner
will leave either a raw finish and/or a film. This must be washed off.
2. A perfectly clean engine has little ‘sparkle’. To liven things up,
something must be added. A common used-car preparation trick is to spray
the cleaned engine with clear lacquer. This is fast but temporary and
not too repeatable when it all starts to peel. I use a dressing spray
bought in bulk from a car wash supply store. I decant it into spray
bottles and spritz it generously over everything. Adds gloss, lasts for
months, no damage to anything, easily renewed, even smells nice. 3.
Most people tell you to wrap distributors, carberetors and such. I never
have and have never had a problem, and my cars get no more routine
maintenance than would be expected. I do usually start the beasts
afterwards and let them idle for awhile.
I’m sure that I’ll get several postings telling me why this can’t work
and how I’m destroying our cars. Well, it works, has worked for
fifteen-plus years (in some cases on the same cars) and works equally
well on trailer queens and vehicles we accumulate mileage on at the rate
of 50K miles per year.
On Thu, 18 Jul 1996, Jack Bednarski wrote:
We all have our favorite method of keeping the exterior of our cars looking
like new, but what is the best way to keep the engine clean? A lot of
people like to look over these cars and ask if they can see the engine
compartment. It would be embarrassing to have a dirty engine. Any good ideas?
From: jwalters@biddeford.com (John Walters)
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 09:51:38 -0400
Subject: Question
Hello
I am new to this conference and need advice. I do not now have a Jaguar but
am very seriously considering buying a new ’ 96 XJ6. I live in rural Maine
-
- there is no dealer in the state - and face a 2+ hour drive to a dealer in
Manchester, NH or even further to dealers in suburban Boston.
I understand there is a good independent garage 40 miles away in Portland
but have not yet checked it out. I am interested in having a reliable car;
my questions are:
- there is no dealer in the state - and face a 2+ hour drive to a dealer in
-
Is the new XJ6 REALLY any more reliable than its predecessors?
- electrical & electronic systems?
- motor, transmission, and running systems? -
Is it likely to leak oil, coolant, transmission fluid?
-
Can I plan on having the Portland garage do oil changes and minor
tuneups with the dealer doing the heavy stuff, or is it likely that I will
face a lot of initial warranty work that I can only get done at the
dealership? Can I expect a lot of initial warranty work? -
What are the weak points in the XJ6 and what are the strong points?
-
Does anyone have any recommendation regarding a dealership?
Thanks in advance for any help or comments you might have.
/John Walters
John Walters
P.O. Box 81
Phippsburg, Maine 04562
(207) 389-2152
jwalters@biddeford.com
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 09:53:12 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: She has run her last race…
I’d say your idea is the way to go. Let the insurance company total the
car, but negotiate hard to get the upper limit of value based on the new
parts, interior, etc. Then deduct the salvage value (maybe $300) and
keep the title. Buy the best body you can and you should come out pretty
even (except for your labor ) and you’ll have a nice pile of spare
parts, too boot.
On Tue, 16 Jul 1996, Jim Isbell wrote:
In one fell swoop my wife solved all the XJ6s problems. No more
overheating, no more leaking, no more not starting. She has died perhaps
never to be resurected.At 9:40 this morning while negotiating a left ture (not much real
negotiation here. The othe car refused to budge) she was hit on the
passanger side at the front wheel and sliding back to include both doors.
The front wheel is tucked under (bad sign?) the windshield is popped out and
the LEFT front door is binding ('nother bad sign?). The first pro to look at
it said at least three grand. Since the book value is 5.5 grand I guess the
insurance co will total it… I will never be able to replace it for $5,500.Does anyone have any suggestions on how to convince the insurance co that it
is worth more with the brand new leather interior, impecable maintenance,
and an engine so good that it races competitively even though it has 115K
miles on it?I guess I should be looking for one with a shot interior, blown engine and a
great body. Sounds like my wife…#8-)Jim===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: Harjit Singh harjit@kinkos.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 06:30:10 -0700
Subject: Tranny for a Series III XJ6
Hi everybody,
Would anybody out there know if there is any replacement Transmission
produced by GM or Ford that would replace the original 84 XJ6?
My has given out on me and I have heard that there is an OEM tranny that
fits to the bolt.
Is there such an animal?
Thanks
From: Robert_Abascal@ccmail.orl.mmc.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 11:12 -0500 (EST)
Subject: E-type clock
I have two broken clocks for the E-types.
It appears that the plastic contact assembly has deteriorated.
Has anyone repaired or can recommend someone that repairs these
clocks. I've called several shops advertised in Hemmings and they
won't touch them with a ten foot pole. Does anyone retrofit modern
guts for these clocks. Any help is appreciated.
Robert Abascal '63 OTS and '66 Coupe XKE
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #219
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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 19 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 220
A/C FWIW
Bearing unmount on a S-type
XJ-S Climate Control Vacuum Lines
1980 XJ6 Headlamps
Re: Engine cleaning
Question
Re: She has run her last race…
Tranny for a Series III XJ6
Tranny for a Series III XJ6
Re: She has run her last race…
Re: Engine cleaning
Re: E-type clock
Re: E-Type brakes
Re: A/C
Re: Retorquing XK cylinder heads
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #210
Vacation - off the list
Re: E-Type brakes
First Long Trip in XJ6 II
Chad Bolles E-Mail Address
From: “KENNETH M GILSON” kgilson@ccmail.unl.edu
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 96 11:05:53 CST
Subject: A/C FWIW
The R-12 which is in the older cars has been out of production since
Dec. '95 an EPA mandate. When its gone its gone. However there are
several drop-ins which can be used. In other words you must remove all
the R-12 from the A/C and then recharge the unit. The drop-ins must be
charged as a liquid on the high side because they are a blend, they
have different boiling points and they will "separate" if charged as a
vapor. The blends are usually more efficient so it won't take as much
refrigerant to charge a system and they are much cheaper. If you
decide to take the plunge and convert to R-134A have a pro to make the
change. The existing flexible lines will eventually leak because
R-134A will permeate through the old lines. You may be disappointed in
the outcome on a hot day because R134A is less efficient by about 15%.
As mentioned in other posts Pennzoil makes a drop-in and one that is
coming out is called Kar Kool by Icor International. With the drop-ins
the oil does not need to be changed as in R134A. If and when the time
comes I will use a blend.
Kenny Gilson '64 OTS (go fast don't need A/C:))
From: Yves Hiltpold hiltpold@cui.unige.ch
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 16:49:14 -0200
Subject: Bearing unmount on a S-type
Hi Jag Lovers !
I’m working on the front suspension of my s-type. I want to check the
bearings. I have been able to remove the outer hub bearing, but not the
inner one. How do I remove the inner hub seal ? How is it fixed ? It seems
it has been forced in the hub. Any idea ?
By the way, to unmount the rear brake caliper I have to take the rear
suspension off the car. Is that right ?
As any one of you done this ? Any particular problems ?
Thanks for any help !
Yves Hiltpold - S-type 3.8
Geneva - Switzerland
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 10:45:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: XJ-S Climate Control Vacuum Lines
OK, guys, I need some help. I am in the middle of modifying my
climate control system ('82 XJ-S HE) and before I mess with the vacuum
servo ‘logic’ I want to make sure that I know what was. Problem is that
there are several clues pointing out that the system has been violated by
persons unkown – bits of odd vacuum line patched in here and there.
The issue for me is not the vacuum piping to the dashpots, but the main
vacuum feed from the engine and the vacuum lines to the dash selector
switsh and master servo.
Hunt Dabney was going to send me the routing, but he has disappeared (are
you out there, Hunt? I hope you’re OK.). Michael Neal hasn’t replied (are
you mad at me, Michael? It’s not like I’ve got a 327 under the hood!).
Kirby is apparently still exploring the southern hemispere.
Can anybody help? Thanks in advance.
(BTW, if anyone is interested, I’ll be happy to describe the control
changes I ultimately make.)
From: Tommy loner@peterboro.net
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 10:32:29 -0400
Subject: 1980 XJ6 Headlamps
Hey All!
Can anyone advise me on the proper headlamp "configuration" for my 1980 =
XJ6 (as in series 3). I stripped the car’s trim for a respray and I’m =
going through the tedious task of reassembling.
Unfortunately, my memory is not as good as I thought and the vidoetape =
I took of the car prior to starting my project seems to miss a few key =
areas.
-
Do the headlamps with the three prongs go into the wing’s (as in =
fenders) “eyes” and do the headlamps with the two prongs go into the =
bonnet’s “eyes”? Or vice versa? -
Are the three pronged headlamps the high beams and the two pronged =
headlamps the low beams? I get the feeling that the three pronged =
headlamps serve a dual purpose - low and high beams - hence the two =
filaments within.PLEASE, someone straighten me out on this quandary.
By the way, my =
“do-it-yourself-homemade-under-the-tent-with-the-dirt-floor” body and =
paint work on the above car: I was hoping to do better, but afraid I =
would do worse. I think most would give it an 8 or 9 out of 10.
Thanks for your help!
Tommy.
loner@peterboro.net
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 10:21:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Engine cleaning
When cleaning a really dirty engine for the first time (I routinely wash
the engine compartments on all our vehicles) I’ll use whatever works,
depending on how bad it is. Real bad, old paintbrushes and solvent, as
well as a siphon-fed nozzle hooked up to the air compressor. Not too
bad, Gunk from Price Club (real cheap). Gunk is OK but it leaves a film
that must be removed by washing with a good quality car wash soap. For
maintenance I use soap and sponges, brushes or spray with Gunk on bad
areas. There are several things to watch out for: 1. Any ‘manly’ cleaner
will leave either a raw finish and/or a film. This must be washed off.
2. A perfectly clean engine has little ‘sparkle’. To liven things up,
something must be added. A common used-car preparation trick is to spray
the cleaned engine with clear lacquer. This is fast but temporary and
not too repeatable when it all starts to peel. I use a dressing spray
bought in bulk from a car wash supply store. I decant it into spray
bottles and spritz it generously over everything. Adds gloss, lasts for
months, no damage to anything, easily renewed, even smells nice. 3.
Most people tell you to wrap distributors, carberetors and such. I never
have and have never had a problem, and my cars get no more routine
maintenance than would be expected. I do usually start the beasts
afterwards and let them idle for awhile.
I’m sure that I’ll get several postings telling me why this can’t work
and how I’m destroying our cars. Well, it works, has worked for
fifteen-plus years (in some cases on the same cars) and works equally
well on trailer queens and vehicles we accumulate mileage on at the rate
of 50K miles per year.
On Thu, 18 Jul 1996, Jack Bednarski wrote:
We all have our favorite method of keeping the exterior of our cars looking
like new, but what is the best way to keep the engine clean? A lot of
people like to look over these cars and ask if they can see the engine
compartment. It would be embarrassing to have a dirty engine. Any good ideas?
From: jwalters@biddeford.com (John Walters)
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 09:51:38 -0400
Subject: Question
Hello
I am new to this conference and need advice. I do not now have a Jaguar but
am very seriously considering buying a new ’ 96 XJ6. I live in rural Maine
-
- there is no dealer in the state - and face a 2+ hour drive to a dealer in
Manchester, NH or even further to dealers in suburban Boston.
I understand there is a good independent garage 40 miles away in Portland
but have not yet checked it out. I am interested in having a reliable car;
my questions are:
- there is no dealer in the state - and face a 2+ hour drive to a dealer in
-
Is the new XJ6 REALLY any more reliable than its predecessors?
- electrical & electronic systems?
- motor, transmission, and running systems? -
Is it likely to leak oil, coolant, transmission fluid?
-
Can I plan on having the Portland garage do oil changes and minor
tuneups with the dealer doing the heavy stuff, or is it likely that I will
face a lot of initial warranty work that I can only get done at the
dealership? Can I expect a lot of initial warranty work? -
What are the weak points in the XJ6 and what are the strong points?
-
Does anyone have any recommendation regarding a dealership?
Thanks in advance for any help or comments you might have.
/John Walters
John Walters
P.O. Box 81
Phippsburg, Maine 04562
(207) 389-2152
jwalters@biddeford.com
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 09:53:12 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: She has run her last race…
I’d say your idea is the way to go. Let the insurance company total the
car, but negotiate hard to get the upper limit of value based on the new
parts, interior, etc. Then deduct the salvage value (maybe $300) and
keep the title. Buy the best body you can and you should come out pretty
even (except for your labor ) and you’ll have a nice pile of spare
parts, too boot.
On Tue, 16 Jul 1996, Jim Isbell wrote:
In one fell swoop my wife solved all the XJ6s problems. No more
overheating, no more leaking, no more not starting. She has died perhaps
never to be resurected.At 9:40 this morning while negotiating a left ture (not much real
negotiation here. The othe car refused to budge) she was hit on the
passanger side at the front wheel and sliding back to include both doors.
The front wheel is tucked under (bad sign?) the windshield is popped out and
the LEFT front door is binding ('nother bad sign?). The first pro to look at
it said at least three grand. Since the book value is 5.5 grand I guess the
insurance co will total it… I will never be able to replace it for $5,500.Does anyone have any suggestions on how to convince the insurance co that it
is worth more with the brand new leather interior, impecable maintenance,
and an engine so good that it races competitively even though it has 115K
miles on it?I guess I should be looking for one with a shot interior, blown engine and a
great body. Sounds like my wife…#8-)Jim===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: Harjit Singh harjit@kinkos.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 06:30:10 -0700
Subject: Tranny for a Series III XJ6
Hi everybody,
Would anybody out there know if there is any replacement Transmission
produced by GM or Ford that would replace the original 84 XJ6?
My has given out on me and I have heard that there is an OEM tranny that
fits to the bolt.
Is there such an animal?
Thanks
From: Harjit Singh harjit@kinkos.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 06:30:10 -0700
Subject: Tranny for a Series III XJ6
Hi everybody,
Would anybody out there know if there is any replacement Transmission
produced by GM or Ford that would replace the original 84 XJ6?
My has given out on me and I have heard that there is an OEM tranny that
fits to the bolt.
Is there such an animal?
Thanks
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 09:53:12 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: She has run her last race…
I’d say your idea is the way to go. Let the insurance company total the
car, but negotiate hard to get the upper limit of value based on the new
parts, interior, etc. Then deduct the salvage value (maybe $300) and
keep the title. Buy the best body you can and you should come out pretty
even (except for your labor ) and you’ll have a nice pile of spare
parts, too boot.
On Tue, 16 Jul 1996, Jim Isbell wrote:
In one fell swoop my wife solved all the XJ6s problems. No more
overheating, no more leaking, no more not starting. She has died perhaps
never to be resurected.At 9:40 this morning while negotiating a left ture (not much real
negotiation here. The othe car refused to budge) she was hit on the
passanger side at the front wheel and sliding back to include both doors.
The front wheel is tucked under (bad sign?) the windshield is popped out and
the LEFT front door is binding ('nother bad sign?). The first pro to look at
it said at least three grand. Since the book value is 5.5 grand I guess the
insurance co will total it… I will never be able to replace it for $5,500.Does anyone have any suggestions on how to convince the insurance co that it
is worth more with the brand new leather interior, impecable maintenance,
and an engine so good that it races competitively even though it has 115K
miles on it?I guess I should be looking for one with a shot interior, blown engine and a
great body. Sounds like my wife…#8-)Jim===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 10:21:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Engine cleaning
When cleaning a really dirty engine for the first time (I routinely wash
the engine compartments on all our vehicles) I’ll use whatever works,
depending on how bad it is. Real bad, old paintbrushes and solvent, as
well as a siphon-fed nozzle hooked up to the air compressor. Not too
bad, Gunk from Price Club (real cheap). Gunk is OK but it leaves a film
that must be removed by washing with a good quality car wash soap. For
maintenance I use soap and sponges, brushes or spray with Gunk on bad
areas. There are several things to watch out for: 1. Any ‘manly’ cleaner
will leave either a raw finish and/or a film. This must be washed off.
2. A perfectly clean engine has little ‘sparkle’. To liven things up,
something must be added. A common used-car preparation trick is to spray
the cleaned engine with clear lacquer. This is fast but temporary and
not too repeatable when it all starts to peel. I use a dressing spray
bought in bulk from a car wash supply store. I decant it into spray
bottles and spritz it generously over everything. Adds gloss, lasts for
months, no damage to anything, easily renewed, even smells nice. 3.
Most people tell you to wrap distributors, carberetors and such. I never
have and have never had a problem, and my cars get no more routine
maintenance than would be expected. I do usually start the beasts
afterwards and let them idle for awhile.
I’m sure that I’ll get several postings telling me why this can’t work
and how I’m destroying our cars. Well, it works, has worked for
fifteen-plus years (in some cases on the same cars) and works equally
well on trailer queens and vehicles we accumulate mileage on at the rate
of 50K miles per year.
On Thu, 18 Jul 1996, Jack Bednarski wrote:
We all have our favorite method of keeping the exterior of our cars looking
like new, but what is the best way to keep the engine clean? A lot of
people like to look over these cars and ask if they can see the engine
compartment. It would be embarrassing to have a dirty engine. Any good ideas?
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 13:26:21 -0400
Subject: Re: E-type clock
On Jul 19, 11:12am, Robert_Abascal@ccmail.orl.mmc.com wrote:
Subject: E-type clock
I have two broken clocks for the E-types.
It appears that the plastic contact assembly has deteriorated.
Has anyone repaired or can recommend someone that repairs these
clocks. I’ve called several shops advertised in Hemmings and they
won’t touch them with a ten foot pole. Does anyone retrofit modern
guts for these clocks. Any help is appreciated.Robert Abascal '63 OTS and '66 Coupe XKE– End of excerpt from Robert_Abascal@ccmail.orl.mmc.com
Yes
You can get an E-type (or Mk2 etc.)clock w/ modern guts from XKs Unlimited. I
think SNG Barratt has them too - $50-$60 I think.
Mark
From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 13:30:47 -0400
Subject: Re: E-Type brakes
- –IMA.Boundary.623797738
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Description: cc:Mail note part
If your “mechanic” doesn’t know if he needs to drop the rear suspension in
order to replace the pads, then I strongly suggest you look for a qualified
mechanic instead of a qualified answer!
MikeC
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: E-Type brakes
Author: rrichardson@eurekanet.com (Robert J. Richardson) at INTERNET
Date: 07/17/96 04:39 PM
Can brake pads or the bridge pipes be replaced without dropping the
suspension? My mechanic needs a qualified answer before he can go ahead
with the job. Thanks.
- –IMA.Boundary.623797738–
From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 13:38:01 -0400
Subject: Re: A/C
- –IMA.Boundary.609797738
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Description: cc:Mail note part
There was . . . but we killed him and ate him.
"... we tanned his hide when he died, Clyde,
and that's it 'anging on the shed ..."
MikeC
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: A/C
Author: jorn@itn.is (Johann Orn Hedinsson) at INTERNET
Date: 07/18/96 01:34 PM
Hi there fellow Jag owners
Another one. There was a member on this list who drove an xj6 in which he
had changed the engine to chevy 350. Are you still out there? Does anybody
know who this was.
Greetings from the frozen north, up on top
Johann Orn
- –IMA.Boundary.609797738–
From: Patrick Krejcik pkr@SLAC.Stanford.EDU
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 10:56:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Retorquing XK cylinder heads
Robert wrote:
Now that I beleive that I have finally stopped oil leaks from the cam
covers on my SII 4.2, I have noticed that there appears to be a leak >from the back of the head at the head gasket interface. I can confirm >that the leak is not from the external oil feed lines or banjo fitting >nor from
the oil seals at the rear of the cam covers.
Robert,
I once had a similar situation on my E-Type after replacing gaskets on
the banjo fittings etc. The leak got worse until I finally noticed a
hairline fatigue crack in the oil line where it is brazed into the banjo
fitting. It was extremely difficult to see at first as it was just along
the edge of the braze material. I found it by cleaning the engine and
then taping clean white tissue everywhere to locate the origin of the
oil. The good news was I could soft solder a patch on top of the hard
braze until obtaing a replacement.
So I would advise looking very carefully again before blaming the head
gasket. After all, where is there any high pressure oil behind the head
gasket? Water and combustion gases are the things that can blow through
a head gasket, but I can’t immediately think of a high pressure oil
passage that goes through the head gasket.
Cheers, Patrick.
From: Tom Golodik tgolodik@buttercup.cybernex.net
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 23:38:23 -0400
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #210
Re oil pan capacity of the 120:I happen to have the original factory XK 120 workshop in front of me:
flat base sump: engine, sump=28 US pints; engine, total=34 pints
stepped base sump: engine, sump=25 pints; engine, total=28 pints
Tom Golodik
From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 14:03:51 -0400
Subject: Vacation - off the list
I'll be off the list until mid-August. I'll be in New Zealand and
then in Australia. Hopefully I will have learned to say g'day mate
properly before I return.
MikeC
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 14:42:15 -0400
Subject: Re: E-Type brakes
On Jul 19, 1:30pm, Mike Cogswell wrote:
Subject: Re: E-Type brakes
If your “mechanic” doesn’t know if he needs to drop the rear suspension in
order to replace the pads, then I strongly suggest you look for a qualified
mechanic instead of a qualified answer!MikeC
I agree, get someone who knows Jags. But if you can’t, and you still trust this
guy… yes the pads can be changed w/out dropping the rear end, but you must
have very small finger and some background in Yoga wouldn’t hurt. I don’t
suggest this. It is (believe me) far easier to drop the subframe - there are
only 4 mounts, just disconnect brake pipes and the exaust, undo (unbolt) the
drive shaft flange and the radius arms, support the car and drop the subframe
w/ a floor jack. Its just that easy folks, if I can do it (heck if my 16yr old
brother can) just about anyone can. Jaguar may have made the pads difficult to
get at but they made the subframe easy to remove. Don’t fear the subframe!
Mark
From: Joseph Reilly reilly@husc.HARVARD.EDU
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 14:47:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: First Long Trip in XJ6 II
Along with an adequate tool kit, I would highly recommend carrying a
fuel pump and ignition coil (if it has one). Most of us I think have
some kicking around and I ended up getting kicked around by my
passengers when I neglected to bring them - even though they are just
sitting around in my garage. Gasket makers have numerous uses and should
also come along.
I always carry a fire extingusher but I’d rather not talk about why
right now.
Joe Reilly
XJ6 II
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 15:18:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Chad Bolles E-Mail Address
Does anyone know Chad Bolles’ e-mail address?
Even better: Chad, are you out there?
Thanks.
John
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #220
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jag-lovers-digest Sunday, 21 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 221
V12 E-Type hot start problems
Re: First Long Trip in XJ6 II
Re: E-Type brakes
Re: V12 E-Type hot start problems
XJ6 S3 83 Stake-Down Kit
RE: XJ6 S3 83 Stake-Down Kit
multiple messages
Re: headlamps
350 conv. Elizabeth’s report card
GM 400 Transmission Problem
Main beams on Mk1…
URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!!
Adding to posts
Re(2): multiple mess - me too
Re: Main beams on Mk1…
“Closed loop”
Re: “Closed loop”
Wire wheels
Intermittent Engine Miss
my 87xj-6
From: Morrismori@aol.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 15:38:56 -0400
Subject: V12 E-Type hot start problems
Hi ! Anybody out there have any ideas how to cure hot start problems on a V12
E-Type. My car starts well when cold ( well, at least as well as can be
expected from 72 E-Type with carbs) but after a run in hot weather it doesn’t
seem so willing. It sounds like the battery is down on power but this isn’t
the case when the engine is cold. I read somewhere that when the car is left
for a short period after a run, the engine temperature increases and the
pistons expand. This in turn causes friction and the starter strains to turn
the engine. Another theory is as the temperature of the fuel in the carbs
increases the viscosity will also increase, This in turn causes too much fuel
to be drawn into the engine (too rich a mixture) and the plugs get flooded.
But this wouldn’t explain why the engine turns over slowly, as if the battery
was flat.
Would be greatful for any tips on this problem,
Martin Gardiner, Frankfurt, Germany
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 21:08:34 +0200
Subject: Re: First Long Trip in XJ6 II
[ Joseph Reilly reilly@husc.HARVARD.EDU ]
|
| I always carry a fire extingusher
I second this one. Even if you never have cause to use it,
just that one time you do need it… It’s not expensive,
will ride happily in the boot (always easily accessible,
of course) and could really save the day when something
nasty happens, be it to yourself or another motorist.
I know, that man was me.
Nick, been there, extinguished that
<<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>>
<<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>>
The JagWeb http://www.sn.no/~nick/jaguar.html <<<
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 14:42:15 -0400
Subject: Re: E-Type brakes
On Jul 19, 1:30pm, Mike Cogswell wrote:
Subject: Re: E-Type brakes
If your “mechanic” doesn’t know if he needs to drop the rear suspension in
order to replace the pads, then I strongly suggest you look for a qualified
mechanic instead of a qualified answer!MikeC
I agree, get someone who knows Jags. But if you can’t, and you still trust this
guy… yes the pads can be changed w/out dropping the rear end, but you must
have very small finger and some background in Yoga wouldn’t hurt. I don’t
suggest this. It is (believe me) far easier to drop the subframe - there are
only 4 mounts, just disconnect brake pipes and the exaust, undo (unbolt) the
drive shaft flange and the radius arms, support the car and drop the subframe
w/ a floor jack. Its just that easy folks, if I can do it (heck if my 16yr old
brother can) just about anyone can. Jaguar may have made the pads difficult to
get at but they made the subframe easy to remove. Don’t fear the subframe!
Mark
From: hdrsons@iamerica.net (Hal Rogers)
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 16:54:57 -0600
Subject: Re: V12 E-Type hot start problems
At 03:38 PM 7/19/96 -0400, Morrismori@aol.com wrote:
Hi ! Anybody out there have any ideas how to cure hot start problems on a V12
E-Type. My car starts well when cold ( well, at least as well as can be
expected from 72 E-Type with carbs) but after a run in hot weather it doesn’t
seem so willing. It sounds like the battery is down on power but this isn’t
the case when the engine is cold. I read somewhere that when the car is left
for a short period after a run, the engine temperature increases and the
pistons expand. This in turn causes friction and the starter strains to turn
the engine. Another theory is as the temperature of the fuel in the carbs
increases the viscosity will also increase, This in turn causes too much fuel
to be drawn into the engine (too rich a mixture) and the plugs get flooded.
But this wouldn’t explain why the engine turns over slowly, as if the battery
was flat.
Would be greatful for any tips on this problem,
Martin Gardiner, Frankfurt, Germany
Perhaps the starter itself is baking/overheating the armature/brushes etc
causing this. Have you had the starter reconditioned lately? Also be sure to
check all connections, grounds of course but I don’t expect that to be your
problem. Some cars actually have heat shields to keep the exhaust heat from
affecting starter internals.
Regards,
Hal
Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
Import Auto Specialists
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax
Serving Auto Enthusiasts since 1959
From: chatmans@ext.missouri.edu
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 96 14:58:56 cdt
Subject: XJ6 S3 83 Stake-Down Kit
I've read that the job of installing a kit is reasonably easy and that
some are using screws instead, but I have a question. If I buy a kit
will I have to drill & tap or does it attach using existing
studs/nuts/bolts? Thanks in advance. Steve Chatman
From: “Lauren E. Pratt” pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 96 18:06:08 PDT
Subject: RE: XJ6 S3 83 Stake-Down Kit
The stake down kits I have seen requires 6 holes be drilled
in the head. Kind of un-nerving, isn’t it. But the screws
also requires 6 (or 12) smaller holes be drilled, also the
cam may have to be removed for this operation as I believe
the screws should be placed beside the lifter guides, not
above or below where the cam lobes could hit them.
Cheers Lauren
Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 7/19/96
Time: 6:06:08 PM
This message was sent by Chameleon
From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 1996 19:20:53 -0700
Subject: multiple messages
Is anyone else getting multiple copies of the same message? Yesterday, I was
getting two copies of each e-mail message. Today it is three to four in
some cases. Is it possible that someone’s computer is automatically
forwarding their e-mail back into the jag-lovers adress?
Rob W-M
85 XJ-S
From: fcb@mi.net (Fred Bramston)
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 00:13:31 -0300
Subject: Re: headlamps
Do the headlamps with the three prongs go into the wing’s (as in =
fenders) “eyes” and do the headlamps with the two prongs go into the =
bonnet’s “eyes”? Or vice versa?Are the three pronged headlamps the high beams and the two pronged =
headlamps the low beams? I get the feeling that the three pronged =
headlamps serve a dual purpose - low and high beams - hence the two =
filaments within.
Generally, in most horizontal dual headlight systems the high/low
beams(three prongers) go on the outboard(wing) sides and the high beams(two
prongers) go on the inboard sides. I believe also that if you check the
wiring it should indicate by the plug-ins the proper positioning.As they had
been in position for so long that any attempt to place them out of position
should be immediately obvious by the resistance to change.(Particularly if
you are using the original harness.)
That’s my 2 pennies worth.Have fun.
From: Ben Tobias bte@kaiwan009.kaiwan.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 22:58:04 -0700
Subject: 350 conv. Elizabeth’s report card
Hello all!
I have been lurking for awhile now, taking in all the info I could about the
“jagrolets” and other useful topics. Now to report on how Elizabeth is
making the transition from weekender in San Diego to everyday vehicle in Los
Angeles.
For those who don’t remember, Elizabeth is a a 1976 XJ6L with a GMC 350 V8.
The engine is in overall great shape: other items were not so good. Here’s a
run down of all the work from the 2+ months we’ve been together. All the
prices are in $US.
Preliminary fluids and filters: $33
Overhaul Rack and pinion, replace
all 6 shocks, electrical work: $1414
New set of tires Pirelli P400: $385
Tune up: new spark wires, points
and resistor: $242
Battery: $90
Alarm system (auto window close) $325
Neutral switch (caused other problems)
and new starter: $393
More electrical (tossed warning buzzer) $80
Replace motor mounts, rebuild carb
and new rear brake pads (shave rotor) $654
Repalce EGR valve, connect charcoal
cannister and TRS valve (smog devices) $390
So, a little over $4,000 into the car I bought for just under $4,000. But
don’t get me wrong, I’m ecstatic. I still have some interior work to do,
plus the power door locks aren’t funtioning anymore. That’s should be
squared away soon. Still a great deal as nothing can be bought in America
for anything close to this price.
Now I get the proper respect from other drivers. Maybe they don’t want to
mess up the pretty old car. Maybe they fear the “cheese grater” grill as I
hurtle toward them. But now, (and I wonder if anyone out there has had this
happen) it seem the Mercedes drivers are getting in my way: blocking me in
parking spots, cutting me off, and generally being a nuisance. Could it be
they realize they spent too much? ;}
Sincerely;
Ben Tobias
1976 XJ6L Jagrolet
bte@kaiwan.com
From: blender@ix.netcom.com (David A. Blender)
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 23:12:21 -0700
Subject: GM 400 Transmission Problem
Hello all:
Here we go again with my 1985 XJS HE…
This time I was on my way home from work today and all was working
wonderfully with the car… I was traveling about 70 mph and passed a
car by doing so, just for fun I pressed all the way down on the
accelerator until the passing switch was depressed…it kicked in and
really went flying. About 3-4 miles down the highway I encountered
heavy traffic and slowed down. As I went to speed back up I noticed
that the the transmission was not shifting out of first gear…it
revved up fairly high 4-5k rpms and still no shifting to second or
third etc… Also, when I stepped on the accelerator it felt like the
engine would need to rev high to engage and continue moving the car
forward… When I manually moved the transmission to 2nd or 3rd it was
engaging. When I put it into 1st and proceeded then let up on the
accelerator it had a sensation of the transmission not even being
engaged until I stepped back on the accelerator…then it felt like it
was re-engaging. What the heck is this???
F.Y.I.
I recently had the transmission rebuilt and replaced the torque
converter…all about 6,000 miles ago. The engine was rebuilt 8,000
miles ago. The body and frame have 97,000 miles. The car has been
running very strong.
It just does not make sense. I checked under the bonnet or hood to
see if the vacuum that leads to the modulator at the transmission is
attached…yes, it is…
If anyone knows anything about what this might be…or has had
experience similar to mine…please write me and let me know what it
might be or what I can do to rectify the problem.
Many thanks…
David A. Blender
1985 XJS HE
From: jorgen@tvnorge.no (Jorgen Scheel)
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 14:08:14 +0100
Subject: Main beams on Mk1…
I`m trying to fix all the electrics on my Mk1, every light works now except
the main beams. There is no power getting there at all. I have checked the
switch in the dash and there is current going from the switch - but to
where? According to the wire diagrams in the Haynes book it goes to a
dim/dip switch. What is that and where is it? Is there a relay hidden somewhere?
I tried to follow the wire from the switch. As far as I can see it dives
into the main harness and out to the engine compartment. At this point I
cant find it again because all the wires in the engine compartment are
blackish and the colour is not easily established.
Anyone done this? Ryan? Is there no relay?
And whoose idea is this “sealed beam” s…t?
Do you really replace the whole lamp on bulb failure?
Sometimes I think about what the PO said to me while counting my money:
You will have 2 happy days with this car - today and the day you get rid
of it!
1.5 x MK1 -59
jorgen@tvnorge.no
SMS: Write your message under “subject” and max. 120 letters.
4792264673@sms.netcom.tele3.no
From: Alan Akeister 100705.3012@CompuServe.COM
Date: 20 Jul 96 07:19:01 EDT
Subject: URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!!
This is an urgent message for all Uk owners:
According to todays (20/7/96) Daily Telegraph," Leaded Four star could become a
thing of the past under European Commission proposals for cleaner air. If they
are adopted by Britain, the last unleaded fuel will be sold here on December
31st 1999.
Owners of the 2.2Million cars in Britain including 150,000 classic cars will
face huge bills for converting to unleaded fuel
the EC proposals are contained in the “Auto Oil” package of measures aimed at
reducing road transport emmissions by up to 70 percent by 2010 and setting
rigorous quality standards EVEN MORE SEVERE THAN THOSE OF THE UNITED STATES!
many owners of older cars risk serious cylinder head damage if they try to run
their cars on unleaded petrol. Although lead substitute petrol additives are on
sale they are yet to be proven.
According to Shell’s fuel development manager, Dr Katherine Hickey, a viable
substitute for lead in four star had not been found"
Contact your MP urgently, and tell him that this proposal must NOt be
implemented until a viable substitute has been found
Why oh Why did we join these idiots in Brussels?
regards
Alan Akeister
From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 08:02:02 +0100
Subject: Adding to posts
Hi all,
This is just a suggestion for anyone who shares
the fun of using this list. I think it would be
interesting if we (Anyone who wants to) add the
city/country we are in, as part of our signature,
at the end of our posts.
Please…if you’re not interested, to paraphrase
Nike, “just don’t do it!” -no need for long threads
on this one!
Regards,
Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
'62 E-Type, ots
From: hdrsons@iamerica.net (Hal Rogers)
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 09:45:32 -0600
Subject: Re(2): multiple mess - me too
At 07:20 PM 7/15/96 -0700, Weiss-Malik wrote:
Is anyone else getting multiple copies of the same message? Yesterday, I was
getting two copies of each e-mail message. Today it is three to four in
some cases. Is it possible that someone’s computer is automatically
forwarding their e-mail back into the jag-lovers adress?
Same problem here too.
Hal
Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
Import Auto Specialists
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax
Serving Auto Enthusiasts since 1959
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 15:13:48 GMT
Subject: Re: Main beams on Mk1…
On Sat, 20 Jul 1996, Jorgen Scheel wrote:
I`m trying to fix all the electrics on my Mk1, every light works now except
the main beams. There is no power getting there at all. I have checked the
switch in the dash and there is current going from the switch - but to
where? According to the wire diagrams in the Haynes book it goes to a
dim/dip switch. What is that and where is it?
This switch allows you to switch from full to dipped beam. A nice little
gesture if you ever encounter oncoming traffic.
It is a round switch that you press with your lefthand big toe, once to
dip, and once again to return to full beam. There is no relay, the switch
carries the full current. Although I am not familiar with Mk.1s, I would
assume it is mounted in the floor to the left (and a little upwards) of
the clutch pedal somewhere.
Do you really replace the whole lamp on bulb failure?
Yes. You replace it with a proper H4 item.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: scoleman@pcl.net (Steve Coleman)
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 19:32:53 -0500
Subject: “Closed loop”
I am still somewhat new to the science (?art) of fuel injection, but I
like trying to do my own work, tuneups, etc. and to understand what I am
doing. I have seen various references to “closed loop” and a smaller
number of references to “open loop” in posts concerning fuel/air mixture
adjustments, setting idle speed, and the like. I would appreciate it if
someone would define or explain these terms and how one determines if an
engine is operating in one of these modes. Thanks.
Steve Coleman, Gadsden, Alabama
1987 XJ6 SIII
1989 XJ40
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 07:07:05 GMT
Subject: Re: “Closed loop”
On Sat, 20 Jul 1996, Steve Coleman wrote:
I am still somewhat new to the science (?art) of fuel injection, but I
like trying to do my own work, tuneups, etc. and to understand what I am
doing. I have seen various references to “closed loop” and a smaller
number of references to “open loop” in posts concerning fuel/air mixture
adjustments, setting idle speed, and the like.
In a process regulated by a “closed loop” system, there is some manner of
measuring what the process end result is (in our case the lambda sensor).
This measurement is compared to an optimum value, and a feedback value is
calculated that corrects the process parameters (the amount of fuel
injected).
The term “open loop” really means no loop at all. The process end result
is not controlled. For a carburettor engine, the amount of fuel is just
governed by the amount of air passing plus to some extent the movement of
the accelerator. Since it can’t compensate for various process variations,
the open loop mode is of course not particulary accurate.
Since an engine will run happily with variations in air-fuel ratio of say
20%, the open loop mode was good enough for almost 100 years of motoring.
With its much narrower margin of error, the 3-way catalyst changed that.
In principle, one could claim that a carburettor engine with manual choke
is operated in a crude sort of human assisted “closed loop” on cold
starts. The driver listening to the way the engine is running, and
adjusting the choke accordingly.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@CompuServe.COM
Date: 21 Jul 96 09:44:20 EDT
Subject: Wire wheels
Our XK150 has stamped in the rim wells (i.e. under the tyre) of its apparently
original 60 spoke chromed wire wheels the designations DRC 5K x 16 UD and also
near the valve XA 456 as well as MADE IN ENGLAND across the inside rim,
elsewhere. Ayone know what these designations mean? Exactly what was the 5K
wheel that I often read about? Was it a shape of rim or what? Maybe DRC meant
Dunlop Rubber Company? I wondered if 456 might be a date (April 56) but my car
is a 1959. All suggestions welcome! By the way, Kirby Palm is in Sydney at
present. Regards, John Elmgreen
From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 10:15:36 +0700
Subject: Intermittent Engine Miss
Just thought I’d relate my diagnostics and the ultimate solution for my
intermittent engine miss problem, in case it should happen to you.
My newly-purchased '85 VdP (my very first Jag) had an irregular (and
sometimes severe) engine miss. The engine would run fine when cold,
then begin to miss after a few miles. The miss would disappear under
hard acceleration.
My first step was to trace the high tension circuit to find and
resolve any poor connections or faulty wires. The spark plug wires
were taped into a bunch using electrical tape (don’t you love
high-tech solutions?) and several of the wire boots were split. One
of the wires would pop out of the distributor cap with little
provocation (hence the sometimes severe engine miss). My first step was
to replace the suspect wires and install a wiring harness to maintain
proper HT wire separation. Upon inspection of the distributor cap, I
found that it was well-used and probably should be replaced, so I
went ahead and installed a new cap and rotor. What the heck, new
plugs too. During the prepurchase, the mechanic said the wrong coil
was installed, so I replaced it with the proper Lucas unit. So much
for the HT circuit, wouldn’t you say? The miss was still there, but
the intermittently severe miss was gone.
I traced the LT circuit from the battery terminals (clean and tight)
to the coil terminals and found no breaks in the wires, loose
fittings, or anything else problematic. The Lucas ignition amplifier had
been replaced with a GM ignition amplifier by the PO. I didn’t want
to shell out US$240 at the moment, so I left it as it was. The miss
was still there.
Via the Bosch fuel injection manual, I found that tiny air leaks
after the air meter can cause a lean mixture. This lean mixture can
cause an engine miss (made sense to me initially, after all, when I
mash on the accelerator, the accelerator injector kicks in and
enriches the mixture - the miss goes away). I disassembled the intake system
from the intake pipe to the throttle plate and cleaned and tightened
all of the connections, cleaned and inspected everything for pinhole leaks,
conducted a basic mechanical and electrical check of the air meter,
and reassembled the intake system. The miss was still there.
I tested the throttle switch. Both closed throttle and WOT switch
positions worked as expected. I removed the ECU, cleaned the contacts,
and reinstalled the unit. I checked and tightened all vacuum
connections, and added a bottle of Fuel Injector Cleaner to one tank of gas.
The miss was still there.
I had not, due to lack of time, equipment and patience:
Tested the fuel pressure.
Tested (via replacement) the ignition amplifier
Removed and checked the fuel injectors.
Tested the distributor pickup, or measured the air gap.
So I left the car with my local Jag guru, who spent a considerable
amount of time getting annoyed with the car as well. The ultimate
problem, you ask? A bent, corroded spade connector hidden under a
plastic shield, connecting the distributor pickup to the coil.
The miss is gone. Finally.
Regards,
Greg.
G. W. Price & Company, Ltd
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Probabilistic Record Linkage Services
Consultants in research, information management
and program evaluation
From: “Gerald E. Clarke” jeclark@kweb.net
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 11:47:10 -0500
Subject: my 87xj-6
Greetings from Kansas. I own an 87 XJ6. It has high miles but looks
new. I have had many problems which I resolved on my own. The first
lesson is “Don’t get creative”. I bought a manual and salvage locator
book that saved me money and time. My first project was the rack. I
bought a rebuilt unit from “Terry’s Jaquar Parts” and had a local shop
install it. I asked the mechanic if he could do the work and he said it
would take a couple hours (it took six) but he only charged me for two).
My next disaster was the water pump. I did that one myself. While I
had it apart I replaced all hoses, belt and had the radiator rebuilt. I
wasn’t too hard except for the bonnet being in the way. The engine
runs cooler now and stopped burning oil. I also had the wiper motor
quit. That was fixed with a rebiult unit from Terry’s. That was a very
messy job but easy to do. I had the antenna motor sticking so I
disconnected it. I bought a new cruise control unit from “Special
Interest Car Parts” after several attempts at glueing the aged rubber
only to have it split apart. It work now but the constant pedal assist
is needed to overcome resistance to throttle movement. Hopefully it’s
just a cable thing. The radio ate a tape and in the process of
removal I blew a fuse (in-line???) somewhere and never have found it. I
replaced the entire radio with a Sony. The headlights flickered twice
then turned off for a few second before coming on again. I replaced the
headlight switch and haven’t had any more scares. I replaced the
left fuel return valve that was also painless. After the local tire
shop rounded all the lug nuts I am searching the aftermarket for non-jag
replacements. It sounds like I am constantly working on my car but it’s
just a lot of little things that come with age. My original plan was to
do the Chevy conversion but I’m not convinced that everything electronic
will work. I don’t want anything left disconnected. Some questions I
have for anyone out there are: Does anyone have a fix for the wood
veneer? I spent a lot of money getting salvage pieces only to have them
crack and peel. What about those pesky electric window switches? Mine
tend to be sticky especially rear ones. Well, that’s it for me. I have
enjoyed my car and love the double-takes when other drivers see me on
the road.
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #221
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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 22 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 222
RE: URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!!
XJS - What year?
Jagrolets
V-12 E OTS for sale, 20k, Seattle
[Fwd: Re: Jagrolets]
83 XJ6 SIII Distributor Clamp
69 E-Type Alternator Help!
Re: Question (new XJ6)
Re: “Closed loop”
Re: XJS - What year?
Re: Intermittent Engine Miss
Re: GM 400 Transmission Problem
jagrolets
After Market Jag Suppliers
Brake Fluids
Stainless Steel Exhausts
Re: 69 E-Type Alternator Help!
RE: URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!!
XJ40 hydraulics & XJ6 S3 rear lamps
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 11:29:39 -0500
Subject: RE: URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!!
You can relax. This is just a knee jerk response. The gasoline will do
nothing except shorten the lifetime of the valve seats. And not by much.
All the letters to your MP, what ever that is, wont make any difference.
We have been running on the new gasoline for about 10 years here in the US
and the old cars are still tooling around out there. Nothing has changed.
The same such “warning” and “urgent” letters were flying when they got rid
of leaded gas here and it was all a waste of time because.
1>) no one listens
2>) its really not a problem.
Really, Alan, get down off your soapbox and quit stiring up imaginary trouble.
Jim
“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil
From: cuno@macworld.ch (Cuno Schneeberger)
Date: 21 Jul 1996 19:40:06 GMT
Subject: XJS - What year?
Jag-Lovers,
I just bought a XJS V12 Coupe that is supposed to be a 1990 model. Now I am
not sure if this is actually the case. How can I verify the model year?
Thanks for your help
Cuno
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 11:42:25 -0500
Subject: Jagrolets
Help, there are two on line now. What is happening to us? One already and
another contemplating the unthinkable just in one day!
Both commented that they enjoyed the looks they get.
Did you guyes ever think that if they knew there was a “chevy lump” under
the hood they wouldnt look? Part of why they look is because its an honest
car that has real performance. With that “lump” under the hood its a junk
pile waiting to find its last owner who will mercifully put it to sleep or…
I think I have found the solution to my dead cat. I have found two neutered
jags with lumps in them. I am considering getting the one with the broken
crank and transplanting the 4.2 from my totaled car into it. They are
available (because of the chevy engine) at $1500 and $2000.
If either of you guys wants to sell your Jag(?) I will give it a good home
and a real engine.
What more fitting end to my Jag than to to a lumpectomy on one of those
neutered cats and bring it back to REAL life?
Jim
“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil
From: Greg Meboe meboe@mont-blanc.scs.wsu.edu
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 12:42:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: V-12 E OTS for sale, 20k, Seattle
The subject line says it all, but here’s the complete text:
WIFE SAYS 2 MUST GO
MY LOSS, YOUR GAIN
62 356 coupe $10k
66 must conv $12k
71 XKE conv, V-12, 4sp, $20k
All exc miech, Priced to sell, OBO
Sad owner, (206)334-1285
Disclaimer:
I don’t know this fellow, his wife, or the cars. (personally I’d be
tempted to get a different wife). I’ll be in France for the next week or so,
otherwise I’d volunteer to go check it out if someone was interested.
Greg
Greg Meboe meboe@mont-blanc.scs.wsu.edu
Web site>> http://www.scs.wsu.edu/~meboe
Mechanical Engineer Boeing Payloads Division
'85 XJ-12 H.E. (daily) '67 Spit-6 '74 TR-6
From: Ben Tobias bte@kaiwan009.kaiwan.com
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 13:30:09 -0700
Subject: [Fwd: Re: Jagrolets]
X-Mozilla-Status: 0001
Message-ID: 31F29323.5A2B@pop.kaiwan.com
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 13:29:23 -0700
From: Ben Tobias bte@pop.kaiwan.com
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.0 (Win16; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: “James A. Isbell” JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu
CC: bte@kaiwan.com
Subject: Re: Jagrolets
References: 199607211743.MAA11105@mail.utexas.edu
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
James A. Isbell wrote:
Help, there are two on line now. What is happening to us? One already and
another contemplating the unthinkable just in one day!Both commented that they enjoyed the looks they get.
Did you guyes ever think that if they knew there was a “chevy lump” under
the hood they wouldnt look? Part of why they look is because its an honest
car that has real performance. With that “lump” under the hood its a junk
pile waiting to find its last owner who will mercifully put it to sleep or…I think I have found the solution to my dead cat. I have found two neutered
jags with lumps in them. I am considering getting the one with the broken
crank and transplanting the 4.2 from my totaled car into it. They are
available (because of the chevy engine) at $1500 and $2000.If either of you guys wants to sell your Jag(?) I will give it a good home
and a real engine.What more fitting end to my Jag than to to a lumpectomy on one of those
neutered cats and bring it back to REAL life?Jim“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil
Part of the beauty is they don’t know!!! My truck engine is AT LEAST as
quiet as an original motor. Obviously you like wasting your money. And
getting worse gas mileage at the same time. HA HA HA HA. I wouldn’t let you
come NEAR Elizabeth.
Ben
BTW in Southern California “Chevy lump” Jags sell for more than the ones with
the original engine. What do we know? ;). Once again two words :BATTERY
FAN!!! HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
From: BD1Y0CA@NJMKTNG.BELL-ATL.COM
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 18:19:51 -0400
Subject: 83 XJ6 SIII Distributor Clamp
Hi, can someone tell me what size the clamp bolt is that
secures the distrbutor. I snapped the head off of the cap
screw so I need to remove the distributor to drill it out,
but a 11 mm is too small and 12 mm too big.Inch sizes don;t
seem to fit either 7/16 too small 1/2 too big. Do I need a
32nd size. Also what is the best kind of wrench to get in
there with it is very tight area. Thanks for any help.
Alex Lynch
83 XJ 6 SIII
62 TR 3
From: MOWOG67@aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 20:44:39 -0400
Subject: 69 E-Type Alternator Help!
Hello,
I have a 69 Etype with the Lucas A-1121 alternator. I recently bought a new
alternator and a new alternator wiring harness. The previous owner modified
the original harness (drastically) and I have no “guide” to follow for
installing the new harness. Can someone offer pointers??
The old alternator was acting very wacky before it quit. The lights in the
car would “pulse”, and it seemed to charge to much (almost to 16volts).
Maybe a ground problem? Also, the red alternator light on the tach stays
on, even though it’s charging.
Thanks,
Jeff B.
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 22 Jul 96 11:42:03
Subject: Re: Question (new XJ6)
To the questions from John Walters, I can’t contribute any direct answers - I’m
strictly an “old Jag” man, and live in Australia to boot. I’d just like to pass
on one piece of advice: do get the factory maintenance manual and learn to do
the minor running maintenance yourself, such as fluid checks and changes,
checking that everything stays tight, inspecting brake pads and disks, tyres
and pressures etc. Not only will this save you bucks, you will let the big cat
know that you care - that you’re not a callous “use-and-dispose” owner but
prepared to enter into a deeper, more meaningful and lasting relationship.
She’ll respond, and so will you - trust me.
Of course, there’s also the not unimportant point that you’ll know that the
job is not skimped but properly done; even the new Jags have quirks and
peculiarities that your run-of-the-mill mechanic neither knows nor cares about.
Welcome, good luck and enjoy!
-
- Jan
From: “Robert Johnson, D.Sc.” bjomejag@sover.net
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 20:56:57 -0500
Subject: Re: “Closed loop”
Steve Coleman wrote:
I am still somewhat new to the science (?art) of fuel injection, but I
like trying to do my own work, tuneups, etc. and to understand what I am
doing. I have seen various references to “closed loop” and a smaller
number of references to “open loop” in posts concerning fuel/air mixture
adjustments, setting idle speed, and the like. I would appreciate it if
someone would define or explain these terms and how one determines if an
engine is operating in one of these modes. Thanks.Steve Coleman, Gadsden, Alabama
1987 XJ6 SIII
1989 XJ40
The difference between “open loop” and “closed loop” refers to the
feedback from the lamda sensor. I open loop the ECU will supply a
pulse width determined by engine RPM, vacuum, water temp, air temp,
and other preprogramed factors. In closed loop these factors are
driven by the feedback from the lamda sensor that gives a specific
voltage (approx 500 mv) at the ideal air fuel ratio of about 14/1.
Most contemporary ECUs work in closed loop if possible. Under start up
and full accelleration the closed loop can not be maintained at the
500 MV and the system goes open. Also, if the lamda sensor is not
functioning the system will operate on open loop.
I hope this helps.
Bob Johnson, Brattleboro, Vt.
SS1, Mk1, Mk VII, and current
From: “Robert Johnson, D.Sc.” bjomejag@sover.net
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 21:05:41 -0500
Subject: Re: XJS - What year?
Cuno Schneeberger wrote:
Jag-Lovers,
I just bought a XJS V12 Coupe that is supposed to be a 1990 model. Now I am
not sure if this is actually the case. How can I verify the model year?Thanks for your help
Cuno
The date of manufacture should be on the drivers side B door post.
Bob Johnson, Brattleboro, Vt.
Mk X, XKE, XJ12L
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 22 Jul 96 12:31:10
Subject: Re: Intermittent Engine Miss
Greg Price :
A bent, corroded spade connector hidden under a
plastic shield, connecting the distributor pickup to the coil.
The Prince of Darkness at work again. As I’ve nagged everybody lots of times
before, Lucas spade connectors are made of copper-coloured putty and go slack
with time. With any electrical trouble, I always check wiring and connectors
first - double always if it’s an intermittent…
Even better, don’t wait until trouble strikes, but set a Sunday morning aside
and clean out all the tubular “Lucarse” connectors with Q-tips and acetone (or
let me know if you find something that works better) and check all the spades,
both cleaning them and tightening up the females with pliers until it takes
considerable force to push them back on.
I agree entirely with what Greg says about the HT leads; they do need regular
replacement (well, every few years).
-
- Jan
Sydney, Australia
XJ12L
XJ12C
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 22 Jul 96 12:12:55
Subject: Re: GM 400 Transmission Problem
I can’t tell you specifically what’s gone wrong, David, but apart from a broken
spring or crud in the valve block, it could be that your kickdown microswitch
is failing to open (this happened to me, once). This is easy to check; the
switch should be located where the throttle cable is anchored to the engine if
the arrangement is the same as on the XJ; it’s actually the sheath of the cable
that moves and actuates the switch at full throttle. Maybe the cable sheath is
failing to retract, maybe the switch lever needs a little judicious bending. A
voltmeter and some throttle stomping will soon tell.
As for the freewheeling in first gear, that’s a standard safety measure to
prevent over-revving when changing down. When I had my GM400 overhauled and had
a shifter kit put in, the slushbox specialist got rid of this for me. Now I
just have to be careful not to drop into first over 90 km/h (55 mph)…
BTW, the GM400 doesn’t kick down into first; the kickdown switch only operates
the 3-2 downchange, unless you have the thing altered.
Good luck,
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 22 Jul 96 13:09:33
Subject: jagrolets
Hey, folks, let’s keep it down to good-natured ribbing and respect each other’s
views. After all, I’ve never criticised the poor deprived souls that drive
around with merely half of a V12…
We’re here to help each other and share the pleasure that is Jaguar, not to
piss on each other’s heads. A Jag with a V8 in it is still a Jag (or does it
have to be a Ford or Daimler V8…?) and its chassis and body need every bit as
much TLC, and are every bit as wonderful, regardless of the engine.
Let’s concentrate on what we have in common, not on what sets us apart.
- -Jan
PS: Having said that, it does strike me as a good, economical idea to reconvert
a conversion - if it’s a botched, kludgy conversion and not a professional one.
Of course, the purists will still complain, because the engine will be much
younger or older than the body…
*** Emotional outrage is not a substitute for informed thought -J. Wikstrom on
the current Australian anti-gun legislation drive ***
From: Tommy loner@peterboro.net
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 22:42:52 -0400
Subject: After Market Jag Suppliers
Hey All Jag Lovers:
I'm just finishing up my 1980 XJ6 (from cobalt blue - yech! - to signal =
red with Biscuit interior) and, if I don’t find a job or start a =
business soon, I’ve been hinting (threatening?) to the wife that I’ll =
embark on my 1971 E-Type restoration (signal red with black interior to =
signal red with biscuit interior - maybe).
Can anyone recommend and/or comment on the reputation of aftermarket =
suppliers, such as, XKs Unlimited, Special Interest Car Parts, Martin =
Robey, G.W Bartlett Co. for interiors, and BAS Ltd. for trim. I have all =
their catalogues but have yet to deal with any of them. I’ve tried to =
contact SICP by way of their Compuserve e-mail address only to have it =
returned undelivered. And would it really be feasible to deal with =
Martin Robey in the U.K. for body parts, afterall I’m in Canada. Do XKs =
Unlimited and SICP distribute Martin Robey panels anyways?.
Others?
Tell me about your favourite and least favourite, and why?
You can e-mail me directly if so desired.
Thanks in advance.
Tommy.
loner@peterboro.net
From: Tommy loner@peterboro.net
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 22:50:05 -0400
Subject: Brake Fluids
Hey All Jag Lovers:
I'm seriously considering converting the brake fluids in my 1980 XJ6 =
and 1971 E-Type. How does one go about changing the existing (paint =
destroying) brake fluid to a silicone brake fluid? Must one change any =
existing seals or components?=20
Is the silicone brake fluid really gentler on paint?
Cost?
Are there other advantages and/or disadvantages to converting to =
silicone brake fluid?
Thanks in advance.
Tommy.
loner@peterboro.net
From: Tommy loner@peterboro.net
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 23:07:22 -0400
Subject: Stainless Steel Exhausts
Hey All Jag Lovers:
The time has come to replace the exhaust on my 1980 XJ6. The y-pipe has =
almost entirely rusted away from the catalytic converter pipe and the =
centre mufflers have some holes. It can only get worse over time.
For my 1971 E-Type the exhaust is somewhere out in the bushes overgrown =
with a mob of weeds. That’s where I tossed it last spring.
I'm seriously considering Double 'S' Exhausts Ltd. distributed in =
Canada by Stainless Steel Muffler Corporation. They’re located in the =
Toronto area so it’s convenient.
My Midas Muffler guy wonders if the mufflers are really stainless steel =
throughout? Afterall, what SSMufflerCorporation sells is about half the =
cost of what Midas can source.
My independent jag mechanic, Ian, wonders out loud if they'll change =
the sound of the exhaust, especially in the E-Type?
Double 'S' claims to be the original and finest in stainless steel =
exhausts. Ah, the power of advertising!
Anyone out there installed stainless steel and/or dealt with Double 'S' =
Exhausts or Stainless Steel Muffler or others? E-mail me directly if you =
want to.
Thanks a million.
Tommy.
loner@peterboro.net
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 23:41:30 -0700
Subject: Re: 69 E-Type Alternator Help!
MOWOG67@aol.com wrote:
the original harness (drastically) and I have no “guide” to follow for
installing the new harness. Can someone offer pointers??
Depending on whether or not you have A/C, there are four or five wires
connecting to the alternator:
- The brown&yellow wire connects the ‘AL’ post on the alternator to the
‘AL’ lead on the ignition warning light relay. This is a cylindrical
relay located just below your heater blower, next to the voltage
regulator. It looks a bit like an emergency flasher, but it is a relay.
This relay is ‘normally closed’, meaning that it will conduct
electricity between the E and WL leads when the AL lead is n_o_t
energized, ie, when the alternator is not puttng out current.
2.A brown&purple wire connecting the ‘F+’ post on the alternator to the
C2 post on the alternator relay and the + post on the voltage
regulator… The alternator relay is on the left mudguard, behind the
battery. There are two or three relays in this location. From the top,
they are: horn relay, alternator relay, and A/C relay.
-
A brown&green wire connecting the ‘F-’ post on the alternator to the
F post on the voltage regulator. -
A brown wire connecting the B+ alternator post to the positive
battery terminal post. -
A brown and white wire connecting the B+ alternator post to the C3
post on the A/C relay, if so equipped.
The old alternator was acting very wacky before it quit. The lights in the
car would “pulse”, and it seemed to charge to much (almost to 16volts).
Replacing the voltage regulator, in addition to everything else you are
doing, would be a good precaution. ‘Normal’ charge is 13.5 volts, and
should not exceed 14-15 volts.
Also, the red alternator light on the tach stays
on, even though it’s charging.
Check or replace the relay, as described above. This light is wired in
series with the
E and WL leads. When the AL lead is energized, the circuit should be
broken. My guess is that either the relay is bad, or the AL lead is not
wired to the alternator correctly.
I have a schematic I could fax you , if you wish. Just email me with a
number.
Many thanks to list members who have helped me compile this info…
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 23:44:41 GMT
Subject: RE: URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!!
On Sun, 21 Jul 1996, James A. Isbell wrote:
2>) its really not a problem.
That depends. A lot.
On a Jag with high quality seats in an aluminium head, you won’t have any problems with unleaded. Or not that I’ve heard of. Although the factory won’t “allow” it, my impression is that Jags from mid 50s and on will all tolerate unleaded quite nicely, thank you. BUT, enter lesser cars with seats directly in a cast iron head, and the scenario suddenly is quite another one. Combined with enthusiastic driving, unleaded can quite quickly destroy seats. Egil Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899 Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/ From: cobac@ix.netcom.com (Eric J Faber ) Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 21:08:30 -0700 Subject: XJ40 hydraulics & XJ6 S3 rear lamps Hi Jag-lovers!, I own a 1989 Jaguar Vanden Plas(XJ40), and have a question regarding the self leveling rear suspension. When the engine is started, after about 30 seconds, the rear of the car begins to rise a few inches, then about 5 seconds later, click! the rear falls and is sagging. Then the back bounces up & down, while driving it! Break pressure is good and there are no HSMO leaks, however, the rear always tries to level itself unsucessfully. It seems as if pressure is not being held between the valve block and rear struts. The pressure relief valve was changed when a technical bulletin was issued, but I don’t know when that was (It’s the valve with a raised head). Does this pressure relief valve sound like the problem and should be changed? Also, I have learned of a KYB Co. kit to change the rear struts to conventional. The kit includes struts and some thin spacers, but no new springs, I think this will cause the rear end to sag permanently, any way to correct this? Does the hydraulic rear ride better or softer than the kit converted rear? I’m asking beacuse the car has had the mentioned problem since I bought it, and I don’t know which system rides better. I would like to keep it original, but will convert for comfort/ride sake. And also, on a friends 1986 Jaguar Vanden Plas Series III, I had to remove the left rear marking lamp. When I plugged it back in, the lamp worked, howver, the right rear parking lamp and right rear license lamp don’t work now. The bulbs are good and no current is being detected. I checked all visible fuses and all are good. All other exterior lamps work correctly, is there a fuse hidden somewhere I can’t find? Thanks for any help you can offer! End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #222 ******************************** Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4) id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Mon, 22 Jul 1996 16:31:39 +0200 (MET DST) Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 16:31:39 +0200 (MET DST) Message-Id: 199607221431.QAA20410@ekeberg.sn.no X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #223 Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Precedence: bulk X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest jag-lovers-digest Monday, 22 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 223 Re: Brake Fluids RE: Brake Fluids BW66 (XJ6 III) Transmission Re: BW66 (XJ6 III) Transmission Re: URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!! Re: Engine cleaning 69 E-Type Alternator Help! RE: Main beams on Mk1… Cleaning Chrome Wire Wheels [Meta] Enough already! A/C compressor clutch / oil pressure XK8 in public Re: V12 E-Type hot start problems Re: After Market Jag Suppliers Re: Stainless Steel Exhausts Re: Stainless Steel Exhausts No Subject- No Subject- From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 00:23:17 -0400 Subject: Re: Brake Fluids Tommy: Silicone fluid does not mix well with standard fluids. The best way to convert is to replace everything. Short of that, clean out all the calipers, fluid reservoirs, and the master cylinder as best you can. It would also be a good idea to replace all the rubber seals. Silicone fluid does not melt paint. It is chemically very stable, and will not need changing as frequently as standard fluids. Standard brake fluids are hydroscopic, that is, they absorb moisture. This is why brake fluid should be changed from time to time. Silicone will not absorb moisture. This may seem like an advantage, but it means that any water trapped in your system will ‘puddle’, potentially causing catastrophic failure. Small air bubbles trapped in silicone fluid tend to gather into large air bubbles. For this reason, you should bleed the system a few times after converting. Silicone fluid is almost impossible to find on the road. It is very expensive when you find it. Mike Frank 1969 E-Type 2+2 At 10:50 PM 7/21/96 -0400, you wrote:
Hey All Jag Lovers:
I’m seriously considering converting the brake fluids in my 1980 XJ6 and
1971 E-Type. How does one go about changing the existing (paint destroying)
brake fluid to a silicone brake fluid? Must one change any existing seals or
components?Is the silicone brake fluid really gentler on paint?
Cost?
Are there other advantages and/or disadvantages to converting to silicone
brake fluid?Thanks in advance.
Tommy.
loner@peterboro.net
From: “Richard Atherton (Entex)” a-richat@microsoft.com
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 21:55:12 -0700
Subject: RE: Brake Fluids
Silicone Brake fluid can be found at almost any Motorcycle Shop in the
US. It has been used in most bikes since the mid 80’s, since it so easy
to spill the stuff on the tank paint jobs.
Rich
From: Michael Frank[SMTP:mfrank@westnet.com]
Sent: Sunday, July 21, 1996 9:23 PM
To: Tommy
Cc: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Re: Brake FluidsTommy:
Silicone fluid does not mix well with standard fluids. The best way to
convert is to replace everything. Short of that, clean out all the calipers,
fluid reservoirs, and the master cylinder as best you can. It would also be
a good idea to replace all the rubber seals.Silicone fluid does not melt paint. It is chemically very stable, and will
not need changing as frequently as standard fluids.Standard brake fluids are hydroscopic, that is, they absorb moisture. This
is why brake fluid should be changed from time to time. Silicone will not
absorb moisture. This may seem like an advantage, but it means that any
water trapped in your system will ‘puddle’, potentially causing catastrophic
failure.Small air bubbles trapped in silicone fluid tend to gather into large air
bubbles. For this reason, you should bleed the system a few times after
converting.Silicone fluid is almost impossible to find on the road. It is very
expensive when you find it.Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2At 10:50 PM 7/21/96 -0400, you wrote:
Hey All Jag Lovers:
I’m seriously considering converting the brake fluids in my 1980 XJ6 and
1971 E-Type. How does one go about changing the existing (paint destroying)
brake fluid to a silicone brake fluid? Must one change any existing seals or
components?Is the silicone brake fluid really gentler on paint?
Cost?
Are there other advantages and/or disadvantages to converting to silicone
brake fluid?Thanks in advance.
Tommy.
loner@peterboro.net
From: sfisher@sola.com.au (Scott Fisher)
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 96 00:44 CST
Subject: BW66 (XJ6 III) Transmission
About 14 months ago my trans failed, not a hard failure, it started to slip
in first
sort of ‘squonking’ on take-off like it was not getting full clutch pressure and
juddering/squealing occasionally on the 1-2 change. This failure/symptom
happened random intervals, weeks apart.
$1000 later it was supposedly fixed, an internal seal had failed apparently.
Well
2 months after my warranty had expired it has reappeared. Anyone got some
ideas on
what sort of areas might be upset causing the above symptoms?
Just trying to build up a case for when I confront the auto-shop.
Regards Scott.
Scott Fisher [sfisher@sola.com.au] PH: +61 08 329-28341.
_--_|\ N
SOLA / \ W + E
International Holdings Research Center _.–_/ S
Adelaide, South Australia. v
Joy ia a Jaguar XJ6 with a flat battery, a blown oil seal and an
unsympathetic wife, 9km outside of a small remote town, 3:15am on
a cold wet winters morning.
SOLA?- Opthalmic Lens Manufacturer, unless all those transparent disks
we make are part of some secret conspiracy to make transparent disks!
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 23:33:08 -0700
Subject: Re: BW66 (XJ6 III) Transmission
Scott,
As we like to say here in California, you’ve been screwed! As you
know, the BW66 is a piece of junk. Check the kickdown cable to see if
the ferrule was moved or removed completely. Generally a trans shop
will throw a basic rebuild kit of seals and gaskets and any parts that
are obviously trashed. Every one that I’ve seen done was had the shift
pressure jacked up to compensate for a problem that wasn’t fixed. To
fix these problems the pump, governor and sometimes the case needs to be
replaced. This drives the price up to around the U.S. $2000 level. For
all you Series 3 XJ6 owners, I would recommend checking the ferrule
position that is crimped on the shift pressure cable. Generally it
should be no more that 1/8" away from the outer cable housing. If it is
and you’ve had trans work done then you have problems.
Scott Fisher wrote:
About 14 months ago my trans failed, not a hard failure, it started to slip
in first
sort of ‘squonking’ on take-off like it was not getting full clutch pressure and
juddering/squealing occasionally on the 1-2 change. This failure/symptom
happened random intervals, weeks apart.$1000 later it was supposedly fixed, an internal seal had failed apparently.
Well
2 months after my warranty had expired it has reappeared. Anyone got some
ideas on
what sort of areas might be upset causing the above symptoms?Just trying to build up a case for when I confront the auto-shop.
Regards Scott.
Scott Fisher [sfisher@sola.com.au] PH: +61 08 329-28341.
_--_|\ NSOLA / \ W + E
International Holdings Research Center _.–_/ S
Adelaide, South Australia. vJoy ia a Jaguar XJ6 with a flat battery, a blown oil seal and an
unsympathetic wife, 9km outside of a small remote town, 3:15am on
a cold wet winters morning.
SOLA?- Opthalmic Lens Manufacturer, unless all those transparent disks
we make are part of some secret conspiracy to make transparent disks!
========================================================
Michael P. Neal Master Jaguar Technician
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
http://www.wco.com/~mneal
From: Volker Nadenau nadenau@ipers1.e-technik.uni-stuttgart.de
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 09:11:27 +0200 (MST)
Subject: Re: URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!!
Hello everybody,
Alan was really upset by the news of stopping delivery of leaded 4 star by
end of this year. We in Germany have the same problem, but nobody is
really worried about this. Most fuel stations decided to stop selling
leaded fuel, because the sold amount is so low, that it does not make any
sense to have a pump for leaded any longer. Nearly all of them offer
additives for cars which really need lead and they started a big
advertisement campain promoting theses additives. It is also cheaper to
use the additive, because the differende in price between the unleaded and
leaded ia about 0.1DM per litre. We probably get used to theses additives
next year.
Volker
On 20 Jul 1996, Alan Akeister wrote:
This is an urgent message for all Uk owners:
According to todays (20/7/96) Daily Telegraph," Leaded Four star could become a
thing of the past under European Commission proposals for cleaner air. If they
are adopted by Britain, the last unleaded fuel will be sold here on December
31st 1999.
Owners of the 2.2Million cars in Britain including 150,000 classic cars will
face huge bills for converting to unleaded fuel
the EC proposals are contained in the “Auto Oil” package of measures aimed at
reducing road transport emmissions by up to 70 percent by 2010 and setting
rigorous quality standards EVEN MORE SEVERE THAN THOSE OF THE UNITED STATES!
many owners of older cars risk serious cylinder head damage if they try to run
their cars on unleaded petrol. Although lead substitute petrol additives are on
sale they are yet to be proven.
According to Shell’s fuel development manager, Dr Katherine Hickey, a viable
substitute for lead in four star had not been found"Contact your MP urgently, and tell him that this proposal must NOt be
implemented until a viable substitute has been foundWhy oh Why did we join these idiots in Brussels?
regards
Alan Akeister
Volker Nadenau Phone: ++49 711 685 7200
University of Stuttgart Fax : ++49 711 685 7143
Institute for Physical Electronics Internet: nadenau@ipers1.e-technik.uni-stuttgart.de
Pfaffenwaldring 47
70569 Stuttgart
Germany
From: “Arnold, Dr Dave” davearno@sandton.senchem.co.za
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 96 08:47:00 PDT
Subject: Re: Engine cleaning
Try a proprietary degreaser, maybe one of the ones like Wynn’s “Clean
Green”, (but this may be a local product name) ?, then, on the black
parts I get really sophisticated and use…black boot polish.
Works like a dream, but may result in similar comments to those of my
wife, slightly sneering and containing in the body of the message
“TRAILER QUEEN !” Given in good faith, not responsible for matrimonial
effects, good or bad. ;-))
Dave
toys’R’ours
From: “Arnold, Dr Dave” davearno@sandton.senchem.co.za
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 96 09:08:00 PDT
Subject: 69 E-Type Alternator Help!
Pulsing and 16V means a defective voltage regulator inside the
alternator. Solution is to replace, at little cost. This is from
personal experience.
Dave
Toys’R’ours
From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 10:02 +0200
Subject: RE: Main beams on Mk1…
If the Mk1 has a similar wiring as on my Daimler V8 (I imagine it has) than=20=
the lighting wire goes from the light switch in the big cable through the=20
bulkhead into the engine compartment, where it splits out again and goes to=20=
the left (on a lhd car) under the heater box and goes back into the driver’s=20=
compartment near the clutch pedal where you should find the foot operated=20
switch. There are 3 wires. one of them carries the current from the light=20
switch, one carries the current for low beam and one for high beam. These=20
last two go back via the same cable to the original split and from there=20
(together with the wires for side lights, indicators and fog lights, and a=20
whole bundle more that separate out to the fuse and relay box) to the front=20=
of the engine compartment to a rubber insulator with 5 holes for bullet=20
connectors. This insulator is fixed to the left side of the engine=20
compartment high up. Have fun as I had when I had to unravel this spaghetti=20=
salad in my car recently.
Frans.
I`m trying to fix all the electrics on my Mk1, every light works now=20
except
the main beams. There is no power getting there at all. I have checked the
switch in the dash and there is current going from the switch - but to
where? According to the wire diagrams in the Haynes book it goes to a
dim/dip switch. What is that and where is it? Is there a relay hidden
somewhere?I tried to follow the wire from the switch. As far as I can see it dives
into the main harness and out to the engine compartment. At this point I
jorgen@tvnorge.no
From: brownd@filon.ml.com (Dave Brown - London Dev Xxxxx)
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 09:26:26 +0100
Subject: Cleaning Chrome Wire Wheels
Hi,
I decided at the weekend to make a real effort in cleaning the CWW’s on my
Daimler 250. They are in pretty good shape but covered in the remains of WD40
from the winter (to protect them from the salt, etc.).
Having spent the best part of three hours on one wheel with a toothbrush and
small strips of cloth I was wondering if anyone has any tips for doing this
quicker? I have heard it’s not a good idea to use a jet wash, hence my attemp at
manual labour, but at this rate it will be winter again by the time I get them
clean!
Any ideas?
TIA,
David
David Brown, Merrill Lynch
brownd@ml.com
///_/_/_/_/////_///______
/_/_//_/_/_/_/_/____
/_/_/_/_/______/_/_/_/______
/_/_/_/_/_/_/________/_/_____
___/_/_/////_/_/_/_/_/______
/_/___/_/_//_/_/_/____
///_/_/_/____/////_///_________
From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 13:04:27 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: [Meta] Enough already!
The volume of traffic on this list is more than sufficient as is, we do
not need to rekindle the Purist vs. Lumpist flame wars at this point. Get
a grip, get a life or please get lost.
While I’m at it:
Please stop the “we are getting duplicate messages here” messages, they
only contribute to the problem as everybody is getting duplicate “we are
getting duplicate messages here” messages and then we all get duplicate
“me too” messages in reference to the “we are getting duplicate messages
here” messages which only seem to spark another batch of “me too”
messages in reference to the second (or maybe the first, who can keep
track anyway) “we are getting duplicate messages here” messages. That
make sense? Good. Now please read up on “Emily Postnews Answers Your
Questions on Netiquette” and read the first paragraph of this posting
again.
I’ll get off my soap box now. Thank you.
Gunnar
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar XJ6 4.2 Sovereign
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | Vicki who? What .sig virus?
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 13:12:21 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: A/C compressor clutch / oil pressure
Hi,
since a few days I thought I had a strange engine noise. Most likely
on acceleration or deceleration. Mild panic ^@^$#@ . Everytime I turned
of the A/C to listen carefully, nothing. Wait a minute, everytime ?
Turns out to be the clutch on the A/C compressor which makes a
shuttering noise. The clutch does not look very good either. Is this
a common error ? It is also (of course) pretty expensive. Is there
something wrong with just bolting the clutch together and ran the
compressor all the time ? I could always use a warning light for
the overtemp switch and simply cut of the belt if something goes
wrong. I checked araound for parts, looks like I am approaching
more then 100 pounds …
Another question concerning oil pressure: how long does it take
to buildup oil pressure after a start ? My oil light stays on for
say 5 seconds and pressure builds up at the same time, with always
a little noise. It’s a V12.
Thanks
-
- Matthias
From: David Wood David.Wood@durham.ac.uk
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 12:36:40 PDT
Subject: XK8 in public
Couldn’t believe what I saw yesterday - an XK8 in a public car park. I
did get very close to confirm it was not a DB7!!
I saw one last week at the JEC day at Harewood, but this one was
unexpected. Metallic black, left hand drive, reg no N130 BRW (I think,
maybe BKW, memory is fading), from the tax disc I’d say registered
in April/May this year, and the association on the number plates said
‘Jaguar Cars Ltd’.
Presumably these are being released to senior Jag execs at the
minute - but why left hand drive in this country??
Impressions? Badly looked after. A deeply scratched rear o/s wing,
fingermarks all over the glass, particularly around the driver’s door,
leather on the driver’s seat creased and sharply indented on the
cushion, as if someone’s been pressing down in a few places with a
chisel for a few days. The outside was filthy, so much so that the
paintwork looked like it had a milky bloom to it - I hope it wasn’t the
paint going off!! And, just like the car at Harewood, the leading edge
of the rear wheel arch is a real mud and stone trap just where it
meets the sill - no progress from my SIII XJ6 there, then!!
Overall, not impressed. If these cars are meant to be showing off to
the public what is generally available in October, it’s bad news that
they’re in the hands of people who let them get into this state in such
a short period of time. How can anyone be given this expensive car
and not apparently look after it, particularly as they presumably work
for the company?
Tez Fair (it is you who works at Jaguar?) - any chance of showing this
to Nick Scheele? (g)
Cheers,
Dave Wood.
From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 08:58:37 -0400
Subject: Re: V12 E-Type hot start problems
In a message dated 96-07-19 16:09:25 EDT, Morrismori@aol.com writes:
Anybody out there have any ideas how to cure hot start problems on a V12
E-Type. My car starts well when cold ( well, at least as well as can be
expected from 72 E-Type with carbs) but after a run in hot weather it
doesn’t
seem so willing. It sounds like the battery is down on power but this isn’t
the case when the engine is cold. I
Perhaps the quality of the ground connection to the engine block deteriorates
as temperature increases, but is OK when cold. This would cause slow starts
when hot. An easy way to diagnose this is to attach a battery booster cable
to the frame and touch to the block while running - if you see a small spark,
then you have a poor engine ground. If that seems a little crude for a
Jaguar, you could monitor the voltage drop between engine and frame under hot
and cold conditons using a voltmeter and draw the same conclusion.
Julian Mullaney
From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 09:10:06 +0100
Subject: Re: After Market Jag Suppliers
RE: Tommy’s last post
I"ve just completed (almost!) the restoration
of my '62 E-Type and have used all the
suppliers you mentioned except for Martin
Robey and I am still waiting for their catalogue.
I’m in Toronto, so understand your
(perceived) problem. “Our” biggest pain is the
big currency difference and shipping costs.
Virtually all the suppliers have 800 numbers so
you can just phone them directly.
The numbers I use are;
SICP- 800-556-7496
XK’s Unlimited- 800-444-5247
Welsh- 800-875-5247
Bartlett- 800-338-8034
If I’m placing a large $ order (HA!) I often call
several and compare prices. My experience has been
that all of the above are very friendly (of course) and
give excellent service. Because of the many, many
parts I have ordered there have been a few ‘gliches’
(sending the wrong item, etc.) but each one has been
quick to replace, respond, etc. at no cost to me.
I have even found some who will lower their price
when I question the fact that they are (were) higher
than a competitor.
I got most of my interior kit from Bartlett (did the rest
myself) and was totally satisfied. (All kits are way
over priced! IMHO)
I’m posting this to the list since it might be helpful to
others (it sure would have helped me, 4 months ago!)
Good luck,
Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
'62 E-Type, ots
Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
'62 E-Type, ots
From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 09:13:47 +0100
Subject: Re: Stainless Steel Exhausts
RE: Tommy’s post, SS system
Part of my restoration was to use SS’s exhaust
system. I have no idea if it’s 100% SS but they
give a life time warranty and it has not changed
the sound from my car at all. It came from Brampton,
Ontario (manufactured there) and, again, I am
completely satisfied with it.
Sorry for the 2nd post but I send the previous before
reading Tommy’s 2nd.
Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
'62 E-Type, ots
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 09:38:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Stainless Steel Exhausts
On Jul 21, 11:07pm, Tommy wrote:
Subject: Stainless Steel Exhausts
My independent jag mechanic, Ian, wonders out loud if they’ll change
the >sound of the exhaust, especially in the E-Type?
I have the same concern. My boss (one of many) has a 3.8 E-type ots and did a
SS exhaust. I think it sounds tinny (is that a word?) Other people say SS
sounds throaty. Throaty I can live w/ - tinny I can’t. Anyone notice a
difference in the sound of SS vs. mild steel? I haven’t bought the exhaust for
my E type yet.
Mark McChesney Detroit,MI.
From: Carlos Madero/Intl/Corp/Tyson Carlos_Madero/Intl/Corp/Tyson.TYSON@mislnx.tyson.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 08:00:48 -0500
Subject: -No Subject-
Hello, anybody there? I sent my message to majordomo@sn.no to register in
jag-lovers, but have received no answer.
From: Carlos Madero/Intl/Corp/Tyson Carlos_Madero/Intl/Corp/Tyson.TYSON@mislnx.tyson.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 08:00:48 -0500
Subject: -No Subject-
Hello, anybody there? I sent my message to majordomo@sn.no to register in
jag-lovers, but have received no answer.
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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 22 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 224
RE: A/C compressor clutch / oil pressure
Canada-to-US Registration HELP
RE: A/C compressor clutch / oil pressure
Canada-to-US Registration HELP
Minimun # RPM’s
-No Subject-
Minimun # RPM’s
Re: [Meta] Enough already!
RE: A/C compressor clutch / oil pressure
Canada-to-US Registration HELP
-No Subject-
Fire extinguishers
Re: GM 400 Transmission Problem
Re: GM 400 Transmission Problem
Fire extinguishers
Re: [Meta] Enough already!
Minimun # RPM’s
RE: A/C compressor clutch / oil pressure
From: Graham Watson grahamw@microsoft.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 07:32:07 -0700
Subject: RE: A/C compressor clutch / oil pressure
Do not wire up the A/C clutch to run all the time. This is the way my
XJ40 is currently running, as the evaporator temp sensor is not working,
and what happens when the compressor runs all the time is it freezes the
evaporator, the input valve shuts down, and the compressor is left
trying to pump refrigerant around a blocked system. PDQ, the compressor
makes even worse noises than your clutch is at the moment. FWIW, I used
to get a noise like a timing chain rattle from my car when the A/C was
off, I was just about to remove the engine when my brain clicked into
gear - tightening the belt made the noise go away - apparently for good.
Whilst I’m on the keyboard - somebody posted info on how to adjust the
range on the A/C panel on an XJ40 some time ago - could they repost, as
I’ve lost the mail, and my car seems to believe that anything above
freezing cold means hot. I thing it involved either adjusting some pots.
at the back of the panel or soldering a resistor in parallel ?
Graham Watson
Managing Consultant (Finance)
Microsoft Consulting Services (UK)
01734-270431
Original Message-----
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com [SMTP:mfl@kheops.cray.com]
Sent: Monday, July 22, 1996 12:12 PM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Cc: mfl@kheops.cray.com
Subject: A/C compressor clutch / oil pressure
Hi,
since a few days I thought I had a strange engine noise. Most likely
on acceleration or deceleration. Mild panic ^@^$#@ . Everytime I turned
of the A/C to listen carefully, nothing. Wait a minute, everytime ?
Turns out to be the clutch on the A/C compressor which makes a
shuttering noise. The clutch does not look very good either. Is this
a common error ? It is also (of course) pretty expensive. Is there
something wrong with just bolting the clutch together and ran the
compressor all the time ? I could always use a warning light for
the overtemp switch and simply cut of the belt if something goes
wrong. I checked araound for parts, looks like I am approaching
more then 100 pounds …
Another question concerning oil pressure: how long does it take
to buildup oil pressure after a start ? My oil light stays on for
say 5 seconds and pressure builds up at the same time, with always
a little noise. It’s a V12.
Thanks
-
- Matthias
From: Dennis Rockwood dlr@cadence.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 10:52:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Canada-to-US Registration HELP
Greetings to jag-lovers.
I have been enjoying reading your emails for the last 6 weeks or so, since
finding it mentioned on the web. And have been looking for a 86 or 87 XJ6
for my wife at least since then.
To make a long story as short as possible, I recently found a great '86 XJ12
through a local Jaguar mechanic, checked it out, talked to the owner, made
a deal, exchanged papers and monies, went to Department of Motor Vehicles to
get registration and plates, and HIT A BRICK WALL. The gentleman that sold
the car to me was from Canada (I live in Mass, USA). He checked with the
Canadian customs people before coming here for a vacation, and told them he
might sell his car while down here. They told him everything that he needed
to do as far as Canada was concerned, but never mentioned that he should also
check to see what US customs might require. OK, I am trying not to ramble
here and just stick to the problem.
The problem is that he needed to get Port of Entry papers from the US customs
people at the border. OK, no problem, just drive back to the border to get the
POE documentation, right? Not that easy, part of the process of getting
approved POE is to do a visual inspection of the vehicle for 2 important
stickers, one from DOT (department of transportation) for compliance with
their safety standards, and one from EPA for compliance with emission standards.
Well, it has the DOT and not the EPA sticker. Many phone calls later I
learned that if the stickers are not there, then a letter from the manufacturer
(Jaguar, of course) was needed, mentioning the VIN of the car and verifying
that the car meets those standards. My phone call to Jaguar resulted in a very
dissapointing message that the car needed 2 MORE catalists and secondary air
injection in order to meet standards.
So the owner and I agreed to re-exchange papers and monies and he is now back
home in Canada trying it from his side (supposedly the correct way) to get
this car back to me.
The key here seems to be the DOT and EPA compliance. I have been told that
every US citizen is entitled to get a waiver one time for vehicles in this
situation, but I have no leads on how to get one.
Can anyone help me out here?
Has anyone heard of this waiver?
Anyone bought a car from CAnada?
Any words of wisdom? (legal, please, I don’t need the hassle every year when
I try to get an inspection sticker)
Thanks in advance for any help,
Rocky
dlr@cadence.com
86 XJ12 VDP (almost)
Massachusetts, USA
From: Graham Watson grahamw@microsoft.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 07:32:07 -0700
Subject: RE: A/C compressor clutch / oil pressure
Do not wire up the A/C clutch to run all the time. This is the way my
XJ40 is currently running, as the evaporator temp sensor is not working,
and what happens when the compressor runs all the time is it freezes the
evaporator, the input valve shuts down, and the compressor is left
trying to pump refrigerant around a blocked system. PDQ, the compressor
makes even worse noises than your clutch is at the moment. FWIW, I used
to get a noise like a timing chain rattle from my car when the A/C was
off, I was just about to remove the engine when my brain clicked into
gear - tightening the belt made the noise go away - apparently for good.
Whilst I’m on the keyboard - somebody posted info on how to adjust the
range on the A/C panel on an XJ40 some time ago - could they repost, as
I’ve lost the mail, and my car seems to believe that anything above
freezing cold means hot. I thing it involved either adjusting some pots.
at the back of the panel or soldering a resistor in parallel ?
Graham Watson
Managing Consultant (Finance)
Microsoft Consulting Services (UK)
01734-270431
Original Message-----
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com [SMTP:mfl@kheops.cray.com]
Sent: Monday, July 22, 1996 12:12 PM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Cc: mfl@kheops.cray.com
Subject: A/C compressor clutch / oil pressure
Hi,
since a few days I thought I had a strange engine noise. Most likely
on acceleration or deceleration. Mild panic ^@^$#@ . Everytime I turned
of the A/C to listen carefully, nothing. Wait a minute, everytime ?
Turns out to be the clutch on the A/C compressor which makes a
shuttering noise. The clutch does not look very good either. Is this
a common error ? It is also (of course) pretty expensive. Is there
something wrong with just bolting the clutch together and ran the
compressor all the time ? I could always use a warning light for
the overtemp switch and simply cut of the belt if something goes
wrong. I checked araound for parts, looks like I am approaching
more then 100 pounds …
Another question concerning oil pressure: how long does it take
to buildup oil pressure after a start ? My oil light stays on for
say 5 seconds and pressure builds up at the same time, with always
a little noise. It’s a V12.
Thanks
-
- Matthias
From: Dennis Rockwood dlr@cadence.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 10:52:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Canada-to-US Registration HELP
Greetings to jag-lovers.
I have been enjoying reading your emails for the last 6 weeks or so, since
finding it mentioned on the web. And have been looking for a 86 or 87 XJ6
for my wife at least since then.
To make a long story as short as possible, I recently found a great '86 XJ12
through a local Jaguar mechanic, checked it out, talked to the owner, made
a deal, exchanged papers and monies, went to Department of Motor Vehicles to
get registration and plates, and HIT A BRICK WALL. The gentleman that sold
the car to me was from Canada (I live in Mass, USA). He checked with the
Canadian customs people before coming here for a vacation, and told them he
might sell his car while down here. They told him everything that he needed
to do as far as Canada was concerned, but never mentioned that he should also
check to see what US customs might require. OK, I am trying not to ramble
here and just stick to the problem.
The problem is that he needed to get Port of Entry papers from the US customs
people at the border. OK, no problem, just drive back to the border to get the
POE documentation, right? Not that easy, part of the process of getting
approved POE is to do a visual inspection of the vehicle for 2 important
stickers, one from DOT (department of transportation) for compliance with
their safety standards, and one from EPA for compliance with emission standards.
Well, it has the DOT and not the EPA sticker. Many phone calls later I
learned that if the stickers are not there, then a letter from the manufacturer
(Jaguar, of course) was needed, mentioning the VIN of the car and verifying
that the car meets those standards. My phone call to Jaguar resulted in a very
dissapointing message that the car needed 2 MORE catalists and secondary air
injection in order to meet standards.
So the owner and I agreed to re-exchange papers and monies and he is now back
home in Canada trying it from his side (supposedly the correct way) to get
this car back to me.
The key here seems to be the DOT and EPA compliance. I have been told that
every US citizen is entitled to get a waiver one time for vehicles in this
situation, but I have no leads on how to get one.
Can anyone help me out here?
Has anyone heard of this waiver?
Anyone bought a car from CAnada?
Any words of wisdom? (legal, please, I don’t need the hassle every year when
I try to get an inspection sticker)
Thanks in advance for any help,
Rocky
dlr@cadence.com
86 XJ12 VDP (almost)
Massachusetts, USA
From: Steve Patchel spatchel@radford.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 08:02:31 -0700
Subject: Minimun # RPM’s
I have recently purchased a 70 E-Type and the previous owner was very
specific about warning me to keep the rpm’s above 2000. This would require
staying in 2nd gear while driving in residential streets with a 35 mph
limit. The car “pulls” fine in a higher gear and lower rpm.
My question is the 2000 rpm requirement myth or does it have some basis in
reality?
Thanks in advance for your assistance.
Stephen Patchel
Consulting Practice Leader
Radford Associates
voice: 408-321-2540
fax: 408-321-2650
From: Carlos Madero/Intl/Corp/Tyson Carlos_Madero/Intl/Corp/Tyson.TYSON@mislnx.tyson.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 08:00:48 -0500
Subject: -No Subject-
Hello, anybody there? I sent my message to majordomo@sn.no to register in
jag-lovers, but have received no answer.
From: Steve Patchel spatchel@radford.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 08:02:31 -0700
Subject: Minimun # RPM’s
I have recently purchased a 70 E-Type and the previous owner was very
specific about warning me to keep the rpm’s above 2000. This would require
staying in 2nd gear while driving in residential streets with a 35 mph
limit. The car “pulls” fine in a higher gear and lower rpm.
My question is the 2000 rpm requirement myth or does it have some basis in
reality?
Thanks in advance for your assistance.
Stephen Patchel
Consulting Practice Leader
Radford Associates
voice: 408-321-2540
fax: 408-321-2650
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 11:33:41 -0400
Subject: Re: [Meta] Enough already!
On Jul 22, 1:04pm, Gunnar Helliesen wrote:
Subject: [Meta] Enough already!
The volume of traffic on this list is more than sufficient as is, we do
not need to rekindle the Purist vs. Lumpist flame wars at this point. Get
a grip, get a life or please get lost.
You Europeanish types are not as effected by the lump controversy - being in
Europe, but it is a REAL concern here in the land of the lumps. I actually know
people (ordinary decent people) w/ lumps in their jags. There is not a
limitless supply of XK powered cars, XK motors, and XK parts in the world.
Isn’t this a real issue? This is for posterity now so be honest. Don’t you want
your grand children to be able to buy(w/ head held high) real XK powered cars.
By then all the European ones will be rusted out and your grandkids will have
to import them from S.W. Texas. They’ll say, “Grandfather I didn’t know the
Jaguar XJ6 S3 had a Chevy V-8” and you’ll say “DRAT, I should have listen to
Mark McChesney 30 yrs ago and let them continue fighting out the lump war on
the Jag-lovers list…”
Mark McChesney Detroit(home of the lump), Michigan 48128 'Merica.
Hey, its your future…
From: Graham Watson grahamw@microsoft.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 07:32:07 -0700
Subject: RE: A/C compressor clutch / oil pressure
Do not wire up the A/C clutch to run all the time. This is the way my
XJ40 is currently running, as the evaporator temp sensor is not working,
and what happens when the compressor runs all the time is it freezes the
evaporator, the input valve shuts down, and the compressor is left
trying to pump refrigerant around a blocked system. PDQ, the compressor
makes even worse noises than your clutch is at the moment. FWIW, I used
to get a noise like a timing chain rattle from my car when the A/C was
off, I was just about to remove the engine when my brain clicked into
gear - tightening the belt made the noise go away - apparently for good.
Whilst I’m on the keyboard - somebody posted info on how to adjust the
range on the A/C panel on an XJ40 some time ago - could they repost, as
I’ve lost the mail, and my car seems to believe that anything above
freezing cold means hot. I thing it involved either adjusting some pots.
at the back of the panel or soldering a resistor in parallel ?
Graham Watson
Managing Consultant (Finance)
Microsoft Consulting Services (UK)
01734-270431
Original Message-----
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com [SMTP:mfl@kheops.cray.com]
Sent: Monday, July 22, 1996 12:12 PM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Cc: mfl@kheops.cray.com
Subject: A/C compressor clutch / oil pressure
Hi,
since a few days I thought I had a strange engine noise. Most likely
on acceleration or deceleration. Mild panic ^@^$#@ . Everytime I turned
of the A/C to listen carefully, nothing. Wait a minute, everytime ?
Turns out to be the clutch on the A/C compressor which makes a
shuttering noise. The clutch does not look very good either. Is this
a common error ? It is also (of course) pretty expensive. Is there
something wrong with just bolting the clutch together and ran the
compressor all the time ? I could always use a warning light for
the overtemp switch and simply cut of the belt if something goes
wrong. I checked araound for parts, looks like I am approaching
more then 100 pounds …
Another question concerning oil pressure: how long does it take
to buildup oil pressure after a start ? My oil light stays on for
say 5 seconds and pressure builds up at the same time, with always
a little noise. It’s a V12.
Thanks
-
- Matthias
From: Dennis Rockwood dlr@cadence.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 10:52:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Canada-to-US Registration HELP
Greetings to jag-lovers.
I have been enjoying reading your emails for the last 6 weeks or so, since
finding it mentioned on the web. And have been looking for a 86 or 87 XJ6
for my wife at least since then.
To make a long story as short as possible, I recently found a great '86 XJ12
through a local Jaguar mechanic, checked it out, talked to the owner, made
a deal, exchanged papers and monies, went to Department of Motor Vehicles to
get registration and plates, and HIT A BRICK WALL. The gentleman that sold
the car to me was from Canada (I live in Mass, USA). He checked with the
Canadian customs people before coming here for a vacation, and told them he
might sell his car while down here. They told him everything that he needed
to do as far as Canada was concerned, but never mentioned that he should also
check to see what US customs might require. OK, I am trying not to ramble
here and just stick to the problem.
The problem is that he needed to get Port of Entry papers from the US customs
people at the border. OK, no problem, just drive back to the border to get the
POE documentation, right? Not that easy, part of the process of getting
approved POE is to do a visual inspection of the vehicle for 2 important
stickers, one from DOT (department of transportation) for compliance with
their safety standards, and one from EPA for compliance with emission standards.
Well, it has the DOT and not the EPA sticker. Many phone calls later I
learned that if the stickers are not there, then a letter from the manufacturer
(Jaguar, of course) was needed, mentioning the VIN of the car and verifying
that the car meets those standards. My phone call to Jaguar resulted in a very
dissapointing message that the car needed 2 MORE catalists and secondary air
injection in order to meet standards.
So the owner and I agreed to re-exchange papers and monies and he is now back
home in Canada trying it from his side (supposedly the correct way) to get
this car back to me.
The key here seems to be the DOT and EPA compliance. I have been told that
every US citizen is entitled to get a waiver one time for vehicles in this
situation, but I have no leads on how to get one.
Can anyone help me out here?
Has anyone heard of this waiver?
Anyone bought a car from CAnada?
Any words of wisdom? (legal, please, I don’t need the hassle every year when
I try to get an inspection sticker)
Thanks in advance for any help,
Rocky
dlr@cadence.com
86 XJ12 VDP (almost)
Massachusetts, USA
From: Carlos Madero/Intl/Corp/Tyson Carlos_Madero/Intl/Corp/Tyson.TYSON@mislnx.tyson.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 08:00:48 -0500
Subject: -No Subject-
Hello, anybody there? I sent my message to majordomo@sn.no to register in
jag-lovers, but have received no answer.
From: LLoyd 3030P@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 96 08:37:13 PDT
Subject: Fire extinguishers
When I carried a fire extinguisher, I always kept it within reach from the
drivers seat. It is nice to be aboe to put it in the boot, but too often the fi
re is in the rear half of the vehicle, and you can’t get near the boot.
I had it’s holder bolted on the center console on the passengers side about
where the passengers calf would be.
Small inconvenievce…
LLoyd
From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 09:59:00 MDT
Subject: Re: GM 400 Transmission Problem
Jan wrote:
BTW, the GM400 doesn’t kick down into first; the kickdown switch only operates
the 3-2 downchange, unless you have the thing altered.
I believe that you are incorrect here. All of my TH400 transmissions
go 2-1 or 3-2 based on the lickdown - stock or not.
Kind regards,
Jim Cantrell
76 XJ12C
76 XJ6C
From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 09:59:00 MDT
Subject: Re: GM 400 Transmission Problem
Jan wrote:
BTW, the GM400 doesn’t kick down into first; the kickdown switch only operates
the 3-2 downchange, unless you have the thing altered.
I believe that you are incorrect here. All of my TH400 transmissions
go 2-1 or 3-2 based on the lickdown - stock or not.
Kind regards,
Jim Cantrell
76 XJ12C
76 XJ6C
From: LLoyd 3030P@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 96 08:37:13 PDT
Subject: Fire extinguishers
When I carried a fire extinguisher, I always kept it within reach from the
drivers seat. It is nice to be aboe to put it in the boot, but too often the fi
re is in the rear half of the vehicle, and you can’t get near the boot.
I had it’s holder bolted on the center console on the passengers side about
where the passengers calf would be.
Small inconvenievce…
LLoyd
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 11:33:41 -0400
Subject: Re: [Meta] Enough already!
On Jul 22, 1:04pm, Gunnar Helliesen wrote:
Subject: [Meta] Enough already!
The volume of traffic on this list is more than sufficient as is, we do
not need to rekindle the Purist vs. Lumpist flame wars at this point. Get
a grip, get a life or please get lost.
You Europeanish types are not as effected by the lump controversy - being in
Europe, but it is a REAL concern here in the land of the lumps. I actually know
people (ordinary decent people) w/ lumps in their jags. There is not a
limitless supply of XK powered cars, XK motors, and XK parts in the world.
Isn’t this a real issue? This is for posterity now so be honest. Don’t you want
your grand children to be able to buy(w/ head held high) real XK powered cars.
By then all the European ones will be rusted out and your grandkids will have
to import them from S.W. Texas. They’ll say, “Grandfather I didn’t know the
Jaguar XJ6 S3 had a Chevy V-8” and you’ll say “DRAT, I should have listen to
Mark McChesney 30 yrs ago and let them continue fighting out the lump war on
the Jag-lovers list…”
Mark McChesney Detroit(home of the lump), Michigan 48128 'Merica.
Hey, its your future…
From: Steve Patchel spatchel@radford.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 08:02:31 -0700
Subject: Minimun # RPM’s
I have recently purchased a 70 E-Type and the previous owner was very
specific about warning me to keep the rpm’s above 2000. This would require
staying in 2nd gear while driving in residential streets with a 35 mph
limit. The car “pulls” fine in a higher gear and lower rpm.
My question is the 2000 rpm requirement myth or does it have some basis in
reality?
Thanks in advance for your assistance.
Stephen Patchel
Consulting Practice Leader
Radford Associates
voice: 408-321-2540
fax: 408-321-2650
From: Graham Watson grahamw@microsoft.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 07:32:07 -0700
Subject: RE: A/C compressor clutch / oil pressure
Do not wire up the A/C clutch to run all the time. This is the way my
XJ40 is currently running, as the evaporator temp sensor is not working,
and what happens when the compressor runs all the time is it freezes the
evaporator, the input valve shuts down, and the compressor is left
trying to pump refrigerant around a blocked system. PDQ, the compressor
makes even worse noises than your clutch is at the moment. FWIW, I used
to get a noise like a timing chain rattle from my car when the A/C was
off, I was just about to remove the engine when my brain clicked into
gear - tightening the belt made the noise go away - apparently for good.
Whilst I’m on the keyboard - somebody posted info on how to adjust the
range on the A/C panel on an XJ40 some time ago - could they repost, as
I’ve lost the mail, and my car seems to believe that anything above
freezing cold means hot. I thing it involved either adjusting some pots.
at the back of the panel or soldering a resistor in parallel ?
Graham Watson
Managing Consultant (Finance)
Microsoft Consulting Services (UK)
01734-270431
Original Message-----
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com [SMTP:mfl@kheops.cray.com]
Sent: Monday, July 22, 1996 12:12 PM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Cc: mfl@kheops.cray.com
Subject: A/C compressor clutch / oil pressure
Hi,
since a few days I thought I had a strange engine noise. Most likely
on acceleration or deceleration. Mild panic ^@^$#@ . Everytime I turned
of the A/C to listen carefully, nothing. Wait a minute, everytime ?
Turns out to be the clutch on the A/C compressor which makes a
shuttering noise. The clutch does not look very good either. Is this
a common error ? It is also (of course) pretty expensive. Is there
something wrong with just bolting the clutch together and ran the
compressor all the time ? I could always use a warning light for
the overtemp switch and simply cut of the belt if something goes
wrong. I checked araound for parts, looks like I am approaching
more then 100 pounds …
Another question concerning oil pressure: how long does it take
to buildup oil pressure after a start ? My oil light stays on for
say 5 seconds and pressure builds up at the same time, with always
a little noise. It’s a V12.
Thanks
-
- Matthias
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #224
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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 22 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 225
Canada-to-US Registration HELP
Re: Cleaning Chrome Wire Wheels
-No Subject-
Unleaded gasoline in older cars
Re: Cleaning Chrome Wire Wheels
Re: GM 400 Transmission Problem
Re: GM 400 Transmission Problem
Fire extinguishers
Mk II and two inch carbs
Re: [Meta] Enough already!
Re: Brake Fluids
Soggy (Long) brakes on 84 XJ6
Minimun # RPM’s
RE: A/C compressor clutch / oil pressure
Canada-to-US Registration HELP
-No Subject-
Thank you
From: Dennis Rockwood dlr@cadence.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 10:52:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Canada-to-US Registration HELP
Greetings to jag-lovers.
I have been enjoying reading your emails for the last 6 weeks or so, since
finding it mentioned on the web. And have been looking for a 86 or 87 XJ6
for my wife at least since then.
To make a long story as short as possible, I recently found a great '86 XJ12
through a local Jaguar mechanic, checked it out, talked to the owner, made
a deal, exchanged papers and monies, went to Department of Motor Vehicles to
get registration and plates, and HIT A BRICK WALL. The gentleman that sold
the car to me was from Canada (I live in Mass, USA). He checked with the
Canadian customs people before coming here for a vacation, and told them he
might sell his car while down here. They told him everything that he needed
to do as far as Canada was concerned, but never mentioned that he should also
check to see what US customs might require. OK, I am trying not to ramble
here and just stick to the problem.
The problem is that he needed to get Port of Entry papers from the US customs
people at the border. OK, no problem, just drive back to the border to get the
POE documentation, right? Not that easy, part of the process of getting
approved POE is to do a visual inspection of the vehicle for 2 important
stickers, one from DOT (department of transportation) for compliance with
their safety standards, and one from EPA for compliance with emission standards.
Well, it has the DOT and not the EPA sticker. Many phone calls later I
learned that if the stickers are not there, then a letter from the manufacturer
(Jaguar, of course) was needed, mentioning the VIN of the car and verifying
that the car meets those standards. My phone call to Jaguar resulted in a very
dissapointing message that the car needed 2 MORE catalists and secondary air
injection in order to meet standards.
So the owner and I agreed to re-exchange papers and monies and he is now back
home in Canada trying it from his side (supposedly the correct way) to get
this car back to me.
The key here seems to be the DOT and EPA compliance. I have been told that
every US citizen is entitled to get a waiver one time for vehicles in this
situation, but I have no leads on how to get one.
Can anyone help me out here?
Has anyone heard of this waiver?
Anyone bought a car from CAnada?
Any words of wisdom? (legal, please, I don’t need the hassle every year when
I try to get an inspection sticker)
Thanks in advance for any help,
Rocky
dlr@cadence.com
86 XJ12 VDP (almost)
Massachusetts, USA
From: Rob Westcott westcotr@belnet.bellevue.k12.wa.us
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 09:06:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Cleaning Chrome Wire Wheels
I decided at the weekend to make a real effort in cleaning the CWW’s on my
Daimler 250. They are in pretty good shape but covered in the remains of WD40
from the winter (to protect them from the salt, etc.).Having spent the best part of three hours on one wheel with a toothbrush and
small strips of cloth I was wondering if anyone has any tips for doing this
Any ideas?
Hey, You got it down to 3 hours, your doing great. I just finished the
annual cleaning of all 5 wheels, first one took 4 hours…
First thing I find that is much easier to work on the wheels off
the car, I place one on top of a plastic garbage can so I can work on
them standing up, turn on some good tunes and wear soft cotton (cheapo)
gloves to protect my fingers. I use Meguiar’s OO Hi-Tech Wash with a
siphon feed nozel on the air compressor for the first cleaning to get the
big chunks off. I use alcohol on rags or swabs to clean out the hubs and
get the grease out of the holes for the spokes. If you don’t clean this
the grease will continue to spread up the wires next time you drive off.
I clean the wheels with a combo cleaner polish (like Mequires #9)
This will clean and protect the wheels with one process. It’s easiest to
work from the inside of the wheel first. Long skinny fingers that bend
backward are a real advantage here but baring that I use a variety of
long (12") sticks and a flexible plastic rod that will get down between
the spokes and rim or hub. I have found that using long 2"wide strips of
soft cotton cloth works well up and down the spokes but havn’t found any
way other than the four step (top-bottom-front-top-bottom-back) on each
of the 72 spokes. To get into the tight corners, try holding one end of
the cloth, pushing the cloth into the small space with the rounded end
of a dowel and gently pull the cloth through while holding the dowel in
the place you want to clean. The effect is to be able to pull about 12"
of cloth over the end of the stick while you direct this movement with
the end of the stick. (much easier to show than explain).
As you can see the discription of cleaning a wheel takes as long
as the job itself I finish the wheel by cleaning and using a
dressing on the wheel itself and put a tiny bit of grease on the splines.
The wheels look beautiful when they are clean and shiny, I
convince myself that this labor of love is worth all the effort!
Rob Westcott
From: Carlos Madero/Intl/Corp/Tyson Carlos_Madero/Intl/Corp/Tyson.TYSON@mislnx.tyson.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 08:00:48 -0500
Subject: -No Subject-
Hello, anybody there? I sent my message to majordomo@sn.no to register in
jag-lovers, but have received no answer.
From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 10:15:17 MDT
Subject: Unleaded gasoline in older cars
Jim wrote:
You can relax. This is just a knee jerk response. The gasoline will do
nothing except shorten the lifetime of the valve seats. And not by much.We have been running on the new gasoline for about 10 years here in the US
and the old cars are still tooling around out there. Nothing has changed.
I must agree that this unleaded question is much over-blown. I
personally believe that the story that the unleaded will harm older
engines is nothing more than a wive’s tale. I have personally run
several of my older “lumps” from the late 60’s on unleaded for 15
years with no problem. In fact, when I was a professional mechanic,
I NEVER ONCE saw an older engine damaged from running unleaded. IN
fact, the newer engines seem to have a higher incidence of burned
valves and pitted seats. Apart from the obvious boost top octane
levels, I really don’t understand the real benefit of lead to the
valvetrain.
Kind regards,
Jim Cantrell
76 XJ12C
76 XJ6C
many lumps running on unleaded
From: Rob Westcott westcotr@belnet.bellevue.k12.wa.us
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 09:06:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Cleaning Chrome Wire Wheels
I decided at the weekend to make a real effort in cleaning the CWW’s on my
Daimler 250. They are in pretty good shape but covered in the remains of WD40
from the winter (to protect them from the salt, etc.).Having spent the best part of three hours on one wheel with a toothbrush and
small strips of cloth I was wondering if anyone has any tips for doing this
Any ideas?
Hey, You got it down to 3 hours, your doing great. I just finished the
annual cleaning of all 5 wheels, first one took 4 hours…
First thing I find that is much easier to work on the wheels off
the car, I place one on top of a plastic garbage can so I can work on
them standing up, turn on some good tunes and wear soft cotton (cheapo)
gloves to protect my fingers. I use Meguiar’s OO Hi-Tech Wash with a
siphon feed nozel on the air compressor for the first cleaning to get the
big chunks off. I use alcohol on rags or swabs to clean out the hubs and
get the grease out of the holes for the spokes. If you don’t clean this
the grease will continue to spread up the wires next time you drive off.
I clean the wheels with a combo cleaner polish (like Mequires #9)
This will clean and protect the wheels with one process. It’s easiest to
work from the inside of the wheel first. Long skinny fingers that bend
backward are a real advantage here but baring that I use a variety of
long (12") sticks and a flexible plastic rod that will get down between
the spokes and rim or hub. I have found that using long 2"wide strips of
soft cotton cloth works well up and down the spokes but havn’t found any
way other than the four step (top-bottom-front-top-bottom-back) on each
of the 72 spokes. To get into the tight corners, try holding one end of
the cloth, pushing the cloth into the small space with the rounded end
of a dowel and gently pull the cloth through while holding the dowel in
the place you want to clean. The effect is to be able to pull about 12"
of cloth over the end of the stick while you direct this movement with
the end of the stick. (much easier to show than explain).
As you can see the discription of cleaning a wheel takes as long
as the job itself I finish the wheel by cleaning and using a
dressing on the wheel itself and put a tiny bit of grease on the splines.
The wheels look beautiful when they are clean and shiny, I
convince myself that this labor of love is worth all the effort!
Rob Westcott
From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 10:20:11 MDT
Subject: Re: GM 400 Transmission Problem
David wrote:
forward… When I manually moved the transmission to 2nd or 3rd it was
engaging. When I put it into 1st and proceeded then let up on the
accelerator it had a sensation of the transmission not even being
engaged until I stepped back on the accelerator…then it felt like it
was re-engaging. What the heck is this???
My guess is that the 12V signal to the kick-down solenoid is stuck or
the solenoid is mechanically stuck in the actuated position. The
TH400 uses a electrically actuated kickdown. A switch on either the
throttle sends 12V to the solenoid which causes a down-shift. I
played around with putting a switch inside one of my lumps and played
with it. The behavior that you describe is consistent with the
solenoid either electrically actuated or mechanically stuck.
Kind regards,
Jim Cantrell
76 XJ12C
76 XJ6C
Lumps with TH400’s
From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 09:59:00 MDT
Subject: Re: GM 400 Transmission Problem
Jan wrote:
BTW, the GM400 doesn’t kick down into first; the kickdown switch only operates
the 3-2 downchange, unless you have the thing altered.
I believe that you are incorrect here. All of my TH400 transmissions
go 2-1 or 3-2 based on the lickdown - stock or not.
Kind regards,
Jim Cantrell
76 XJ12C
76 XJ6C
From: LLoyd 3030P@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 96 08:37:13 PDT
Subject: Fire extinguishers
When I carried a fire extinguisher, I always kept it within reach from the
drivers seat. It is nice to be aboe to put it in the boot, but too often the fi
re is in the rear half of the vehicle, and you can’t get near the boot.
I had it’s holder bolted on the center console on the passengers side about
where the passengers calf would be.
Small inconvenievce…
LLoyd
From: mslade mslade@fidler.co.uk
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 96 14:29:14 BST
Subject: Mk II and two inch carbs
I am currently rebuilding a set of two inch carbs for my 1964 MkII.
The problem I am probably going to have relates to the throttle
linkage. Currently the ‘loud’ pedal opens up the carb butterfly by
means of a complicated set of levers. I feel that the throttle pedal
on the MkII is quit heavy and I can’t help but feel that this is the
reason. On my old MGB the linkage was simply a cable, directly
operated by the pedal.
My question is this:-~
-
Do you think putting a cable in instead will make the throttle
seem lighter, and more responsive? -
Does anyone have experience of doing such a conversion? (I have
two SU HS8 carbs) -
Any tips on what to avoid if I choose to go this route?~
-
There is no question 4.
Mark
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 11:33:41 -0400
Subject: Re: [Meta] Enough already!
On Jul 22, 1:04pm, Gunnar Helliesen wrote:
Subject: [Meta] Enough already!
The volume of traffic on this list is more than sufficient as is, we do
not need to rekindle the Purist vs. Lumpist flame wars at this point. Get
a grip, get a life or please get lost.
You Europeanish types are not as effected by the lump controversy - being in
Europe, but it is a REAL concern here in the land of the lumps. I actually know
people (ordinary decent people) w/ lumps in their jags. There is not a
limitless supply of XK powered cars, XK motors, and XK parts in the world.
Isn’t this a real issue? This is for posterity now so be honest. Don’t you want
your grand children to be able to buy(w/ head held high) real XK powered cars.
By then all the European ones will be rusted out and your grandkids will have
to import them from S.W. Texas. They’ll say, “Grandfather I didn’t know the
Jaguar XJ6 S3 had a Chevy V-8” and you’ll say “DRAT, I should have listen to
Mark McChesney 30 yrs ago and let them continue fighting out the lump war on
the Jag-lovers list…”
Mark McChesney Detroit(home of the lump), Michigan 48128 'Merica.
Hey, its your future…
From: dlfreeman@ipa.net (Dave & Linda Freeman)
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 10:57:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Brake Fluids
Hey All Jag Lovers:
I'm seriously considering converting the brake fluids in my 1980XJ6 and 1971 E-Type. How does one go about changing the existing (paint
destroying) brake fluid to a silicone brake fluid? Must one change any
existing seals or components?Is the silicone brake fluid really gentler on paint? Cost? Are there other advantages and/or disadvantages to converting tosilicone brake fluid?
Thanks in advance.Tommy.
loner@peterboro.net
Normal brake fluid is hydroscopic (i.e. it will absorb water) and silicone
is not. Moisture in the brake fluid is what causes such things as pitting
of the wheel cylinders. Did you know that the reccomended practice with
normal brake fluid is to flush and replace every year!! Pain in the rear.
I am not familiar with the newer Jags but I am running silicone fluid in my
XK120 and in my Morgan + Four with no adverse affects on hoses or seals.
It is however considerably more expensive.
Dave and Linda Freeman
Living the Good Life
From: Julio Loza julio@synerdyne.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 09:50:38 -0700
Subject: Soggy (Long) brakes on 84 XJ6
I just finished rebuilding the master cylinder and front brake pistons =
on my XJ6. I had been putting DOT3 brake fluid until someone told me =
that this was the wrong brake fluid for this car. Anyway the brake =
system was not stopping as firmly as when I got the car and I decided to =
rebuild the system ( with the exception of the rear brakes ). I rebuilt =
both the master cylinder and front brakes without any problems - or so I =
thought. I then flushed the system with Girlings Brake fluid and bled =
it. When I tested it however the pedal went all the way down before it =
would stop the car. I bled it again - I think it was better afterwards =
but not significantly. Since the brakes have four chambers in the front =
could air still be trapped in there? Is a special method of bleeding =
these brakes? Are all four brakes supposed to apply equal pressure on =
their rotors? Any tips or help in diagnosing this would be appreciated.
Thanks
Julio Loza
From: Steve Patchel spatchel@radford.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 08:02:31 -0700
Subject: Minimun # RPM’s
I have recently purchased a 70 E-Type and the previous owner was very
specific about warning me to keep the rpm’s above 2000. This would require
staying in 2nd gear while driving in residential streets with a 35 mph
limit. The car “pulls” fine in a higher gear and lower rpm.
My question is the 2000 rpm requirement myth or does it have some basis in
reality?
Thanks in advance for your assistance.
Stephen Patchel
Consulting Practice Leader
Radford Associates
voice: 408-321-2540
fax: 408-321-2650
From: Graham Watson grahamw@microsoft.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 07:32:07 -0700
Subject: RE: A/C compressor clutch / oil pressure
Do not wire up the A/C clutch to run all the time. This is the way my
XJ40 is currently running, as the evaporator temp sensor is not working,
and what happens when the compressor runs all the time is it freezes the
evaporator, the input valve shuts down, and the compressor is left
trying to pump refrigerant around a blocked system. PDQ, the compressor
makes even worse noises than your clutch is at the moment. FWIW, I used
to get a noise like a timing chain rattle from my car when the A/C was
off, I was just about to remove the engine when my brain clicked into
gear - tightening the belt made the noise go away - apparently for good.
Whilst I’m on the keyboard - somebody posted info on how to adjust the
range on the A/C panel on an XJ40 some time ago - could they repost, as
I’ve lost the mail, and my car seems to believe that anything above
freezing cold means hot. I thing it involved either adjusting some pots.
at the back of the panel or soldering a resistor in parallel ?
Graham Watson
Managing Consultant (Finance)
Microsoft Consulting Services (UK)
01734-270431
Original Message-----
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com [SMTP:mfl@kheops.cray.com]
Sent: Monday, July 22, 1996 12:12 PM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Cc: mfl@kheops.cray.com
Subject: A/C compressor clutch / oil pressure
Hi,
since a few days I thought I had a strange engine noise. Most likely
on acceleration or deceleration. Mild panic ^@^$#@ . Everytime I turned
of the A/C to listen carefully, nothing. Wait a minute, everytime ?
Turns out to be the clutch on the A/C compressor which makes a
shuttering noise. The clutch does not look very good either. Is this
a common error ? It is also (of course) pretty expensive. Is there
something wrong with just bolting the clutch together and ran the
compressor all the time ? I could always use a warning light for
the overtemp switch and simply cut of the belt if something goes
wrong. I checked araound for parts, looks like I am approaching
more then 100 pounds …
Another question concerning oil pressure: how long does it take
to buildup oil pressure after a start ? My oil light stays on for
say 5 seconds and pressure builds up at the same time, with always
a little noise. It’s a V12.
Thanks
-
- Matthias
From: Dennis Rockwood dlr@cadence.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 10:52:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Canada-to-US Registration HELP
Greetings to jag-lovers.
I have been enjoying reading your emails for the last 6 weeks or so, since
finding it mentioned on the web. And have been looking for a 86 or 87 XJ6
for my wife at least since then.
To make a long story as short as possible, I recently found a great '86 XJ12
through a local Jaguar mechanic, checked it out, talked to the owner, made
a deal, exchanged papers and monies, went to Department of Motor Vehicles to
get registration and plates, and HIT A BRICK WALL. The gentleman that sold
the car to me was from Canada (I live in Mass, USA). He checked with the
Canadian customs people before coming here for a vacation, and told them he
might sell his car while down here. They told him everything that he needed
to do as far as Canada was concerned, but never mentioned that he should also
check to see what US customs might require. OK, I am trying not to ramble
here and just stick to the problem.
The problem is that he needed to get Port of Entry papers from the US customs
people at the border. OK, no problem, just drive back to the border to get the
POE documentation, right? Not that easy, part of the process of getting
approved POE is to do a visual inspection of the vehicle for 2 important
stickers, one from DOT (department of transportation) for compliance with
their safety standards, and one from EPA for compliance with emission standards.
Well, it has the DOT and not the EPA sticker. Many phone calls later I
learned that if the stickers are not there, then a letter from the manufacturer
(Jaguar, of course) was needed, mentioning the VIN of the car and verifying
that the car meets those standards. My phone call to Jaguar resulted in a very
dissapointing message that the car needed 2 MORE catalists and secondary air
injection in order to meet standards.
So the owner and I agreed to re-exchange papers and monies and he is now back
home in Canada trying it from his side (supposedly the correct way) to get
this car back to me.
The key here seems to be the DOT and EPA compliance. I have been told that
every US citizen is entitled to get a waiver one time for vehicles in this
situation, but I have no leads on how to get one.
Can anyone help me out here?
Has anyone heard of this waiver?
Anyone bought a car from CAnada?
Any words of wisdom? (legal, please, I don’t need the hassle every year when
I try to get an inspection sticker)
Thanks in advance for any help,
Rocky
dlr@cadence.com
86 XJ12 VDP (almost)
Massachusetts, USA
From: Carlos Madero/Intl/Corp/Tyson Carlos_Madero/Intl/Corp/Tyson.TYSON@mislnx.tyson.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 08:00:48 -0500
Subject: -No Subject-
Hello, anybody there? I sent my message to majordomo@sn.no to register in
jag-lovers, but have received no answer.
From: Carlos Madero/Intl/Corp/Tyson Carlos_Madero/Intl/Corp/Tyson.TYSON@mislnx.tyson.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 12:14:46 -0500
Subject: Thank you
Thank you, Mark and Rob.
I am new in this group, and actually this is my first association in the net.
I own a 1973 XJ6 (silver/red) which is my daily transportation up to now. It
was converted to the E-type knock-off wire wheels, otherwise it is stock. The
engine runs good, but I think it needs more power and have bought a 350
Chev/700R4 trans for it. If there is anyone who has gone through the
conversion and may have some oppinion (pro/con) on a given way to go about the
swap, please write.
Other questions that keep me distracted while I am at work;
- Do XJ6’s have a shell where the headliner is glued to? I just found out my
headliner is glued to the sheetmetal in the roof !! - One of the motors for the power windows went out, and when I pulled it out I
noticed it is a Delco unit, made in the USA. Anybody know whether other early
'70s cars (maybe Cadillacs, Olds?) use the same motors?? - Anybody out there has a '73 parts car? There are a few trim pieces I need
to buy. - Here is my small contribution, when I changed the vacuum-activated heater
valve, I noticed it is the same as early 70’s Chevrolet cars. It was much
cheaper that way !! - I would appreciate also any leads on replacing the vacuum diaphragm that
opens and closes the fresh air / recirculate gate.
Thank you,
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #225
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Tim@cccp.co.uk
jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 23 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 226
jag-lovers-digest V2 #215
Re: A/C compressor clutch / oil pressure
FW: After market Jag Suppliers.
Re: Unleaded gasoline in older cars
Re: Stainless Steel Exhausts
Re: XK8 in public
Re: stereo installation
Whine at 60 mph (fwd)
Chevy lumps and broken toys
GM 400 Transmission Problem
Re: Loss of Leaded petrol
Re: Mk II and two inch carbs
RE: Main beams on Mk1…
Re: After Market Jag Suppliers
Re: Cleaning Chrome Wire Wheels
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #221
first jag
Re: Exhaust Leaks and Silicone
From: Felts_Thomas_L/atc_mail5-id@mail5-id.atc.alcoa.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 96 14:16:45 -0400
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #215
Re: Jag general and Pittsbvrgh Vintage Grand Prix.
Anyone missing this event missed an absolutely premier britcar event.
You owe it to yourself to attend one of these events—so–start
planning for next year.
The 66 E-rdster that I have been restoring for 6 years was DRIVEN to the
race this weekend. Ran great, looked great and I was in heaven----worth
all the time and money (i think!)
Tom
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 14:41:11 -0400
Subject: Re: A/C compressor clutch / oil pressure
Matthias:
Turns out to be the clutch on the A/C compressor which makes a
shuttering noise.
I have just installed a complete new A/C setup on my E-Type. The compressor
was b_r_a_n_d new. It sometimes makes a slight chattering noise on hard
acceleration…I assume that this is normal. The noise is noticable, but not
obnoxious. The clutch is magnetic, so there really isn’t a lot that can go
wrong with it.
Is there
something wrong with just bolting the clutch together and ran the
compressor all the time ?
Running the compressor all the time will result in overloading the
system…most likely you will find that the evaporator ices up…
I could always use a warning light for
the overtemp switch and simply cut of the belt if something goes
wrong.
You will be going thru a lot of belts…
Another question concerning oil pressure: how long does it take
to buildup oil pressure after a start ? My oil light stays on for
say 5 seconds and pressure builds up at the same time, with always
a little noise. It’s a V12.
I don’t know what’s normal on a V12, but five seconds sounds fine to me.
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
From: Chiahotny David DCHIAHOT@DQC2C.DOFASCO.CA
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 96 14:54:00 DST
Subject: FW: After market Jag Suppliers.
Tommy: I live in Hamilton Ont. so I am somewhat familiar with the Canadian
problems of the suppliers of parts. Here is my experience with an ongoing
restoration of my 70 E-type OTS.
I used Martin Robey for the panels for the floor and one rocker panel. The
materials arrived in about 4 weeks by air from Britain, everything was of
excellent quality and fit well. The air freight was not bad, but shipping
from Toronto to Hamilton in bond (before clearing customs) cost almost as
much as shipping from Britain. Lesson: pick up material as soon as possible
when it arrives in the country.
Special Interest Car Parts
I have used these people for various ball joints, trim etc. They use only
UPS for shipping. This is a real problem because they charge an exhorbitant
fee for crossing the border. Any of the others are preferable. - Purolator
or even the post office. They claim things go missing by post, and they
will not use other shippers. I had some items short shipped once and it
took 3 months to get is straightened out. They were cooperative, but UPS
was not. The original paper work was used with the short shipped items
(worth about $25 US) and even though it was prepaid shipping , UPS wanted
$325 because the paperwork was from a $1000 order. UPS kept coming to the
door every other day for 6 weeks until I would accept the shipment with a no
charge agreement from UPS. Even then I got a bill in the mail from UPS
which I finally got them to agree would not be paid.
British Auto USA
I have used these people for small parts. They are very agreeable, will
ship by mail, or your preferred carrier. I have had no problems getting any
ordered parts from them. Mail delivery comes is about 1 week.
Bartletts interior and trim
I ordered a complete interior from Bartlett’s. (Muncie Indiana)
Thankfully, I used a US address for delivery. The interior came in dribs
and drabs for about 8 months. Small boxes, large boxes, etc. When it was
finally all delivered, I drove to the US, picked it up and brought it across
the border clearing customs. It would have cost a fortune in customs and
shipping fees if I had used my own address. The downside is that I could
not inspect the items until well after delivery and payment, but It was all
top quality make in England.
I once used Barry Hankinson in Britain for a carpet set, convertible top and
some trim. It took one full year almost to the day from order to delivery.
I called several times to check on the order. First ‘We have received
your order and will be processing it soon’ (3 months after order) ‘we
processed your order and have ordered the blue material for your carpet’ (5
months after order) ‘we saw that your order was for a blue mohair top so we
have now ordered the blue mohair material’ (7 months after order). So, the
quality was excellent, the price was good, but the delivery was extremely
slow.
Welsh Jaguar
I have used Welsh’s and have toured their facility. They are very
knowledgeable, helpful and willing to ship according to your instructions.
They have very good stock and try to supply quality items. But the price
may be higher than others.
These are a few of my thoughts on the Jag aftermarket suppliers. I hope
this helps you.
David Chiahotny
'70 E-type OTS
'71 Triumph Spitfire
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 18:58:48 GMT
Subject: Re: Unleaded gasoline in older cars
On Mon, 22 Jul 1996, Jim Cantrell wrote:
Apart from the obvious boost top octane
levels, I really don’t understand the real benefit of lead to the
valvetrain.
There is only one place the lead will do any good: On the seats of the
exhaust valves.
There have been quite extensive reasearch being performed in the UK
confirming the requirement for a certain (albeit low) level of lead in
certain older engines. As noted earlier, engines with aluminium heads
and other engines with valve guide inserts will usually survive well
without lead. Despite their manufacturers not always recommending it. I
have also got the impression that the lead deposited on the seats early in
an engines life will help later on when running unleaded.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 18:47:45 GMT
Subject: Re: Stainless Steel Exhausts
On Mon, 22 Jul 1996, Mark McChesney wrote:
Throaty I can live w/ - tinny I can’t. Anyone notice a
difference in the sound of SS vs. mild steel?
The standard stainless steel system is a bit louder. Not extremely so, but
you’ll notice it. I wouldn’t exactly describe it as tinny, but the mild
steel system certainly has got a more mellow tone to it.
Of course, you often don’t realize this because you change because the
existing system is so rotten anything is an improvement :-).
The system on my S-type (a complicated contraption with 5 mufflers) is
from Falcon. I would expect that to be pretty middle-of-the-road as SS
systems go. The fit was OK.
I read an article recently about a company that claims that they are
delivering SS systems that sounds just like mild steel. Forgot their name,
though. It was a small UK company.
As for why, I assume it is caused by a combinanation of the SS being
harder (and thus less dead) than mild steel, and perhaps also that with
SS systems you can get away with thinner material?
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: TezFair@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 15:26:34 -0400
Subject: Re: XK8 in public
Hi Dave & members,
I was sorry that your impression of our XK8 was poor. The only explanation I
can give at to its condition is that all the 8’s on the road are engineering
test cars and are driven to destruction. If the paint gets scratched then
nothing is done to repair it, this is to test the rust proofing abilities.
The seats are in constant 24hr use, so it thus tests durability of repeated
Bums on Seats. So the overall aim is for reliability and customer
satisfaction. (I hope I don’t sound like a saleman there!!.)
Its my understanding that the 8’s were not allowed to leave the Coventry area
because of any bad press a rough car may receive. So this guy was obviously
showing off. I shall take this letter to work, and usually the letters I take
are seen by the directors, if not by Nick.
Terry Fairbrother
From: allporsche@cajunnet.com (Bart G. Denys)
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 14:53:23 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: stereo installation
Jag-lovers
I want to install an Alpine CD unit (DIN size) into my 86 xj6. Can anyone
help me with:
1. Wiring instuctions
2. Installation help (does it fit / do I need to cut wires /
should I purchase a kit?)
Any help will be greatly appreciated
Thanks
Stacy
From: “Wilkie A. Wilson” wawilson@acpub.duke.edu
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 15:47:28 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Whine at 60 mph (fwd)
- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 15:46:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: Wilkie A. Wilson wawilson@acpub.duke.edu
To: jag-lover@sn.no
Subject: Whine at 60 mph
Hi Jag-lovers,
I am new to this list today and don’t quite know whether to hope that my
question has already been answered (and thus my problem solved) or that
you have not seen this question, and thus are entertained…in any case
I need help!
I just bought a 93 XJ6 with 75K miles on it and had a prepurchase
inspection from a reliable group ( I hope). I absolutlely love this car!!!
But to my perfectionist ears there is a bit of a problem…starting at
about 60 mph and ending at about 70 mph there is a whine in the rear end
that disappears immediately when I remove my foot from the gas and the
car coasts. I had the mechanic drive it and I have talked to two
dealers…everyone thinks it is probably the differential, but no one
recommeds spending any money at this point. I had heard that some
differentials were going bad on 93’s and 94’s at low mileage…sooooooo,
does anyone have a good idea. I would really like to stop the whine and
worry about something else!!!
Thanks
Bill Wilson
From: DavidZ333@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 15:57:00 -0400
Subject: Chevy lumps and broken toys
Jaguar lovers,
1 - After reading and further considering responses to an earlier
announcement, I looked up the word “toy” in my unabridged dictionary, one
deep with connotation, and stand fast to my original thought.
2 - While I understand and appreciate those who are tired of the lump debate,
I find it most fascinating and hope it continues. In fact I am planning on
writing an article on the debate and encourage anyone interested to share his
or her thoughts about the Chevy powered Jaguar concept with me.
There is something more important in the debate than petty argument. I think
there is an important metaphor inherent in the discussion having to do,
ultimately, with good art and bad art. I believe that the question of art,
of quality to get Pirsigish on you, is at the very heart of our future
survival and of our history.
I will not elaborate especially as I do not know how many of you care;
however, a case in point.
One Jaguar Lover expressed frustration about the debate because, as he put
it, nobody looks under the hood anyway. Now, I ask you, is that revealing or
what? Is that a metaphor or what?
Apparently for some people there is no aesthetic principle involved in this
question as there so obviously seems to be to Mark McChesney. This is not a
value judgment - not yet. For some, apparently, a Jaguar is a toy, and so
being a frivolus thing can be played with by installing Chevy engines in it,
adding flames, or entering in drag races. When I was an ado, a friend of
mine submitted a model of an Anglia powered Cadilac for competition and
received an honorable mention.
Someone advised, by not taking ones Jaguar too seriously, one can enjoy the
car more. And so we have the so called Chevy Lump as enjoyed by many. This
is not a value judgment.
3 - Finally, finally I overcame the brake problem in my '54 XK120 S. The
brakes are now totally restored. The Jaguar had been benignly stored in a
garage in Iowa for the last 17 years. I bought it a year ago. Remarkably, I
continue to find rodent drek in odd places.
After taking care of the obvious, I began to drive the Jaguar and the hell
with the urine drenched seats. Whatever it is that the few miles driven in
the 120 instilled in me, it is something that I need - that I need. Wants
are one thing and needs another. Speaking only for myself of course, a need
is a most practical concern.
Toys may be you, but toys ain’t me. That’s not a value judgment.
Huge clouds of whiteish smoke came from the exhaust the day befor ewe were
going to Elkart Lake for the Chicago Historic Races. I was near water and
added a gallon. Smoke smoke smoke the way home. Four miles later I added
another gallon. White smoke from the exhaust. Smoke from the radiator
filler. Blip the engine and bubbles bubbled.
And so, again I am without my Jaguar and am in need.
4 - I have a guess as to the problem of course, but what do you think the
chances are that it’s not serious?
5 - I have a 12,000 miles kick ass Chevy engine sitting in the corner of my
garage.
6 - How many of you experienced a wave of intense disgust and fear a moment
ago?
Regards
David
From: Don40799@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 16:22:59 -0400
Subject: GM 400 Transmission Problem
From: blender@ix.netcom.com (David A. Blender)
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 23:12:21 -0700
Subject: GM 400 Transmission Problem
Re: David Blender’s request for information regarding XJ-S HE failure to
shift from first to second (and higher) gear.
My �83 XJ-S had the same �stuck in first gear� problem starting on the trip
home from a body shop following a relatively minor collision. Before taking
it to a shop, I looked all around for a loose wire connection or new leak.
The only thing I found was a loose ground strap at the frame near the front
of the engine on the left side. I doubted that the loose connection was the
problem because the engine was running fine. However, after securing the
connection, the transmission has been shifting without problems for the last
18 months.
My guess is that the collision jarred the strap enough for it to periodically
lose continuity, since the car ran fine for several days between the bump and
the repairs. The body shop would have had no reason to disturb the
connection.
David, please let me know what you find, for my future reference if the
problem returns.
Don Snyder, San Antonio, Texas
'83 XJ-S
'73 E-Type
From: Alan Akeister 100705.3012@CompuServe.COM
Date: 22 Jul 96 17:03:40 EDT
Subject: Re: Loss of Leaded petrol
James A Isabel,
<<Really, Alan, get down off your soapbox and quit stiring up imaginary
trouble.>>
Well, thank you for that enlightened comment, particulary from someone who lives
in Texas! I’m glad you find a report in a British newspaper “stirring up
imaginary trouble” particulary as it was in a newspaper of considerable standing
in the world. More than can be said for the Houston Chronical, or the Dallas
Morning News :~)
Please read my note again, James, where am I “stirring up” ?
As for getting off my soapbox, I put the article onto the digest for
information.
I have had many postings agreeing that a problem does exist, from all around the
world.
If you do not agree, that is your perogative, which I am happy to hear, but
please do not accuse me of stirring up people. ;~}
Oh, and by the way, an MP is a member of Parliament, a man or woman elected by
the whole of his constituents, ( or at any rate those who can be bothered to
vote, about 80per cent 8~) ) Anyone can stand, by getting 20 members of the
electorate for the area to support him, (not the Texan way,by a caucus of a
political party,) and is chosen by his ability, not by how much money he has, or
who he has bribed! (or in the case of certain people who he has screwed :~)
What’s the matter James, belong to the wrong party in Texas? :~)
Still standing on his soapbox, and proud to be able to do so
Still an Oilers fan (at least until they abandon Houston!)
Alan Akeister
Southam,
Coventry
15 miles from the Jaguar “maternity hospital” Browns Lane,
4,470 miles from the Astrodome
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 21:07:37 GMT
Subject: Re: Mk II and two inch carbs
On Mon, 22 Jul 1996, mslade wrote:
My question is this:-~
- Do you think putting a cable in instead will make the throttle
seem lighter, and more responsive?
Yes. But IMHO that is not a Good Thing. The geometry of certain parts of
the linkage is built like it is to make the throttle response progressive.
This means that the first part of pedal travel will only give moderate
speed increase, and you have to press the pedal all the way to get full
power. Which is good, because it makes the car much easier to drive
without jerkiness.
If you connect a cable directly to the butterflies, the first few
millimeters of pedal travel will immediately give a lot of power, and the
last half will not really do that very much.
The latter method gives an initial impression of responsiveness, but
IMHO the first approach will win in the long run.
For a similar “salesroom trick”, go have a look at some audio amplifiers
whose volume control, on a scale to 10, will give almost full blast on say
4. The customer will turn the volume control, and notice that it gets
quite loud at a couple of notches. “Wow, and the scale goes all the way to
10” he thinks, and he’s sold!
- There is no question 4.
I have an answer for it, though. Have a look at your link mechanism -
lubricate all joints and take up the slack - and you might end up enjoying
it :-).
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: jorgen@tvnorge.no (Jorgen Scheel)
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 02:08:44 +0100
Subject: RE: Main beams on Mk1…
goes back into the driver’s
compartment near the clutch pedal where you should find the foot operated
switch. There are 3 wires.
Thanks to you and other jag-lovers I now have lights in every corner.
The solution was that P.O. had removed the floor switch and just tucked the
carpet over… Me having only a Haynes manual only found that there was a
switch. I had no idea it was a floor switch…
Found it of course on the parts car… Every thing okay now - except
breaks
1.5 x MK1 -59
jorgen@tvnorge.no
Sandvika - Norway
SMS: Write your message under “subject” and max. 120 letters.
4792264673@sms.netcom.tele3.no
From: Shane Gibson shane_gibson@qsp.co.nz
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 10:25:12 -0700
Subject: Re: After Market Jag Suppliers
I am just about to order a set of Leather Seat Covers for my Daimler V8
250 from Aldridge Trimming in the UK. Has anybody had any dealings (good
or bad) with this company and their products?
Thanks
Shane
From: “Ed Freige” edf@borrego.asd.sgi.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 15:51:47 -0700
Subject: Re: Cleaning Chrome Wire Wheels
David Brown -
I have your solution - It takes 30 minutes to do 4 wire wheels, and the
results are outstanding.
Many years ago when I ran wire wheels on my E type, I use to spend countless
hours with chrome polish, toothbrushes, terrycloth rags, steelwool etc…
trying to keep the wheels shiney and bright. Living in the beach area of
Southern California, USA, this exercise was required at least once each and
every month.
I visited a local Jaguar dealer by the name of Wittlesey Jaguar located in
Torrance, CA just next door to the beach area. They recommended a solution
that they sold called D-85, it came in a quart size plastic bottle and sold
at that time (1974) for approximately US$5.00. I still have a small amount
in that same bottle in my garage.
I would take the D-85 basically known as an aluminum cleaner and spray it
on each wire wheel, allowing it to foam and soak for approximately
15 minutes and then I would hose it off with plain water and towel dry the
wheels. This stuff was fantastic, it not only took off the road tar and
grime but also any rust that might have formed at the junction or around
the spokes as they entered the rim. It is really amazing stuff and the
results are beyond your expectations no matter how bad your wheels might
appear to be.
Not having needed it in recent years, I do not know if it is still available
over the counter, or if it is under a different label, but it is basically
an aluminum cleaner and I am sure that it is possible to find such a
solution most likely at a hardware store.
…
From: Ed Mellinger meed@mbari.org
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 16:04:04 -0700
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #221
Contact your MP urgently, and tell him that this proposal must NOt be
implemented until a viable lead substitute has been foundWhy oh Why did we join these idiots in Brussels?
Maybe so you won’t spend the next 60 years spraying a bio-accumulating,
non-degrading neurotoxin into the air, as you have for the past 60!
Get real. This thread has been beat to death repeatedly. The only
engines really affected are ones with cast iron heads that spend a good
part of their life near full load – marine engines, stationary engines,
lawnmower engines for cryin’ out load – NOT car engines and NOT Jag
engines.
Enjoy your hobby, but in future try to act responsibly about its
consequences for public health.
Ed Mellinger
Monterey, CA
meed@mbari.org
From: Jason Philbrook jasonph@sidehack.gweep.net
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 20:00:11 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: first jag
Just thought I’d try to share my excitement and fun. And I dont even have
the vehicle yet!
I spent the whole day saturday looking for jaguars, after researching for
two months. Last car I looked at was a bright red 1989 XJS V12. It was
soooooo nice in every way…
I bought it. My life wont be normal until I get it into my dooryard.
Tomorrow, I’m going over to pick it up. I called the insurance company today.
Insurace Company: Good morning, this is Linda.
Me: [introduce myself]. I am getting a different vehicle and will need
insurance on it.
IC: Great. What is it?
Me: A Jaguar X[interupted]
IC: Wooooo -ieeeee
Me: A Jaguar XJS, 1989
IC: Wow. What does it have for an engine?
Me: [pause] A V-12
IC: Wooooo -ieeeee. How old are you?
Me: 21
IC: Have you received any speeding tickets or had any accidents
Me: No, None
IC: We classify that as a performance auto. Being a 21 year old male, it
might get expensive. Have you already bought the vehicle? You might not
want to buy it once you find out what the insurance will be.
Me: I intend to keep it.
IC: We’ll try to find something today. It might be difficult to find
someone to underwrite your insurance.
Gonna be fun. I found it is very hard to keep within the speed limits
though. You can’t hear the engine, it handles our new england roads
nicely, and accelerates effortlessly, thus I caught myself going 50 in a 30
zone while on a test drive.
- -Jason Philbrook
From: “Rice, Brian” RICEB@lsod.srl.dsto.defence.gov.au
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 96 09:36:00 CST
Subject: Re: Exhaust Leaks and Silicone
In Jag Lovers V2 #203 Don Tracey wrote Re: Exhaust Leaks and Ed Scripps
replied.
Just add my two bobs (two shillings or 20 cents) worth.
I use both anti seize grease (copper loaded) and silicon sealer (high
temperature) (just smear on top of each other, grease first), on all the
joints in the exhaust system right from manifolds to chrome tail pipes, and
am continually amazed at how easy they come apart… The exhaust is also VERY
quiet because of no leaks.
I also wire brush and use anti seize grease on ALL nuts and bolts etc. Any
EXPOSED threads are then coated with cheaper gasket silicon sealer to
protect them from rust, dirt and stone damage. Several years of doing this
means that every time I now have to remove the exhaust to get at things
(which seems to be quite often) I can literally undo the nuts by hand after
loosening them with a socket or spanner.
Brian W.Rice Adelaide South Australia
85 XJ-S HE (White)
84 XJ-6 Sovereign (White)
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #226
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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 23 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 227
XJ-S Steering Wheel
Re: GM 400 Transmission Problem
XK8
RE: She has run her last race…
RE: Minimun # RPM’s
Re: GM 400 Transmission Problem
Re: Exhaust Leaks and Silicone
Re: Unleaded gasoline in older cars
RE:A Question (Peter Morris)
Re: silicone brake fluid
RE: Unleaded Petrol
Lump Opinions
RE: Unleaded Petrol
Re: Cleaning Wire wheels
Model year
Originality debate
Cleaning Chrome Wire Wheels
From: TR8XLR8@aol.com
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 21:50:59 -0400
Subject: XJ-S Steering Wheel
Hello all,
I have a problem I hope someone can help with. I’d like to replace the stock
steering wheel on my 85 XJS-HE with a wooden one. I’m looking for something
tasteful that would compliment the Elm interior and perhaps even have a
Jaguar logo. Any advice on brands, supplier etc would be appreciated.
Also, I’ve got a TH400 that tends to engage 2nd gear (and sometimes 3rd) very
roughly. Its a solid change but lands with a thud (especially at 3000RPM+).
Sometimes it shifts pretty well but usually not… Any ideas on how I might
could cure this ? Could it be a modulator problem or am I due for a trans
rebuild. Thanks, Tony
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 07:50:40 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: GM 400 Transmission Problem
forward… When I manually moved the transmission to 2nd or 3rd it was
engaging. When I put it into 1st and proceeded then let up on the
accelerator it had a sensation of the transmission not even being
engaged until I stepped back on the accelerator…then it felt like it
was re-engaging. What the heck is this???My guess is that the 12V signal to the kick-down solenoid is stuck or
the solenoid is mechanically stuck in the actuated position. The
TH400 uses a electrically actuated kickdown. A switch on either the
throttle sends 12V to the solenoid which causes a down-shift. I
played around with putting a switch inside one of my lumps and played
with it. The behavior that you describe is consistent with the
solenoid either electrically actuated or mechanically stuck.
Could someone please explain me why the kickdown switch is only active
in 3rd ? Soemtimes I found it quite annouying that you can’t down-shift
with a kick-down from 2 → 1
Thanks
-
- Matthias
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 08:27:10 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: XK8
I was sorry that your impression of our XK8 was poor. The only explanation I
can give at to its condition is that all the 8’s on the road are engineering
test cars and are driven to destruction.
I’ve you are looking for any other drivers to drive a XK8 to death,
just let me know. Downtown Paris driving would be a real good test :-))
-
- Matthias
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 23:41:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: She has run her last race…
Larry-
I think that first, I’d ask the insurance company (or your agent) if they
have people who they use for this (mine did). He was quite impressed with
the car and didn’t argue with any information that I ggave him.
Hunt
At 09:53 AM 7/18/96 -0500, Larry Lee wrote:
On Wed, 17 Jul 1996, Hunt Dabney wrote:
Jim-
I did this with my e. Added 50% to the insured value this way.I successfully increased the value of my 3.8 S-Type by taking it to an
appraiser, getting a letter signed, and taking the letter to my
insurance agent.Can you give us any ideas on locating an appraiser who knows what he is
doing, and what was needed to convince your insurance company that he
did? Also, ballpark cost for it? Thanks.Larry Lee
From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 09:21 +0200
Subject: RE: Minimun # RPM’s
On a level road you can easily stay in top down to 1500 rpm. Of coarse, if=20
you want to accelerate you have shift down and I find it best to stay over=20
2000 rpm (with my 3.8 E) to avoid pinking. This is due to the poorer quality=20=
of the petrol now than in the 60’s.
Frans.
I have recently purchased a 70 E-Type and the previous owner was very
specific about warning me to keep the rpm’s above 2000. This would require
staying in 2nd gear while driving in residential streets with a 35 mph
limit. The car “pulls” fine in a higher gear and lower rpm.My question is the 2000 rpm requirement myth or does it have some basis in
reality?Thanks in advance for your assistance.
Stephen Patchel
Consulting Practice Leader
Radford Associates
voice: 408-321-2540
fax: 408-321-2650=20
From: Volker Nadenau nadenau@ipers1.e-technik.uni-stuttgart.de
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 09:26:31 +0200 (MST)
Subject: Re: GM 400 Transmission Problem
Hello Matthias,
as far as I know there is a kickdown inhibitor switch located at the
selector (?!?) of the autotransmission. It should be easy to shorten it. I
think the workshop manual discusses the replacement of this switch.
Volker
On Tue, 23 Jul 1996, Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR wrote:
forward… When I manually moved the transmission to 2nd or 3rd it was
engaging. When I put it into 1st and proceeded then let up on the
accelerator it had a sensation of the transmission not even being
engaged until I stepped back on the accelerator…then it felt like it
was re-engaging. What the heck is this???My guess is that the 12V signal to the kick-down solenoid is stuck or
the solenoid is mechanically stuck in the actuated position. The
TH400 uses a electrically actuated kickdown. A switch on either the
throttle sends 12V to the solenoid which causes a down-shift. I
played around with putting a switch inside one of my lumps and played
with it. The behavior that you describe is consistent with the
solenoid either electrically actuated or mechanically stuck.Could someone please explain me why the kickdown switch is only active
in 3rd ? Soemtimes I found it quite annouying that you can’t down-shift
with a kick-down from 2 → 1Thanks
- Matthias
Volker Nadenau Phone: ++49 711 685 7200
University of Stuttgart Fax : ++49 711 685 7143
Institute for Physical Electronics Internet: nadenau@ipers1.e-technik.uni-stuttgart.de
Pfaffenwaldring 47
70569 Stuttgart
Germany
From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 09:53 +0200
Subject: Re: Exhaust Leaks and Silicone
Yes, this is the way to do it. I use Neverseez, an American product. Two=20
weeks ago we came back from Geneva from the meeting with the JDC (UK) who=20
were here to visit our club for the 35th anniversary of the first showing of=20=
the E-type. It was pooring with rain and in my hurry to be able to put the=20
car into its garage I passed over the threshold across our entrance to=20
quickly. As the suspension did its job the car swung a bit lower as usual=20
and the gate stop cought on the crosspiece joining the two silencers.=20
Immediately the engine roared loudly and afterwards I saw that the silencers=20=
had been torn out of the down tubes and the rear exhaust hanger had been=20
torn apart. I am glad this happened because without lubrication I would=20
probably have broken the down tubes. Now I could simply put everything=20
together again, robbing my Daimler in restoration of a hanger for the rear=20
exhaust tubes. (I have Falcon SS exhaust.)
I didn’t know though that there exist a high temp. silicone sealer.
Frans.
Just add my two bobs (two shillings or 20 cents) worth.
I use both anti seize grease (copper loaded) and silicon sealer (high
temperature) (just smear on top of each other, grease first), on all the
joints in the exhaust system right from manifolds to chrome tail pipes,=20
and
am continually amazed at how easy they come apart… The exhaust is also=20
VERY
quiet because of no leaks.
I also wire brush and use anti seize grease on ALL nuts and bolts etc.=20
Any
EXPOSED threads are then coated with cheaper gasket silicon sealer to
protect them from rust, dirt and stone damage. Several years of doing=20
this
means that every time I now have to remove the exhaust to get at things
(which seems to be quite often) I can literally undo the nuts by hand=20
after
loosening them with a socket or spanner.
Brian W.Rice Adelaide South Australia
85 XJ-S HE (White)
84 XJ-6 Sovereign (White)=20
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 08:10:39 GMT
Subject: Re: Unleaded gasoline in older cars
On Mon, 22 Jul 1996, Egil Kvaleberg wrote:
As noted earlier, engines with aluminium heads
and other engines with valve guide inserts will usually survive well
^^^^^
without lead.
Sorry for any possible confusion - it should of course be valve SEAT
insert.
As for the mechanism behind this, the valve seats made directly into a
cast iron top will consist of pretty soft material. With very high
temperatures (as in high speed motorway driving), small instances of
microscopic “spot” welding will occur that over time will cause material
to disappear from the seat, leaving a rough surface. If the valve starts
to leak, the problems will only accelerate due to an even further increase
in temperature. A microscopic layer of lead (that fastens to the seat due
to the high temperatures) will prevent this from happening.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: Barrie Dawson DAWSONB@btcec3.agw.bt.co.uk
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 96 10:36:03 -0700
Subject: RE:A Question (Peter Morris)
Peter,
I am sorry I don’t frequent used book stores so will not be able to assist. However
if I come across any Ellis Peters books I will let you know.
Barrie Dawson
Chatham, Kent, England
'85 XJ6 Sovereign SIII
From: “Richard King” kingr@sabc.co.za
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 12:00:12 +0200
Subject: Re: silicone brake fluid
Re: silicone brake fluid not being readily available on the road…
I have read, however, that it is “compatible” with normal fluid - to
the extent that in an emergency you could safely mix normal fluid
with the silicone stuff - but losing, ofcourse, all the benefits of
the silicone fluid.
I once read an article (I’ll try to dig it out) where an engineer
offered several reasons why one should only use silicon fluid in a
system specifically designed for it. There was a question of
the silicon being able to compress to some extent etc…
Richard King
Johannesburg
From: brownd@filon.ml.com (Dave Brown - London Dev Xxxxx)
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 11:35:31 +0100
Subject: RE: Unleaded Petrol
I’ve been following this thread with interest. The consensus seems to be that it
is OK to run with unleaded in older Jags, but with certain caveats.
Now being mechanically challenged, I don’t always follow the technical
arguments. So, a simpe question:
Is it OK to run my standard 1967 250 V8 Daimler with unleaded or not ?
And if i DO run it on unleaded, do I need to add any additives of some sort or
other ?
Sorry if is specific but the discussion has been a trifle confusing at times.
Regards,
David
David Brown, Merrill Lynch
brownd@ml.com
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/_/_/_/_/_/_/________/_/_____
___/_/_/////_/_/_/_/_/______
/_/___/_/_//_/_/_/____
///_/_/_/____/////_///_________
From: “Owens, Adam J.” uscuc8hc@ibmmail.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 07:34:43 EDT
Subject: Lump Opinions
Date: 1996-07-23 07:27
Priority:
On Mon, 22 Jul 1996 DavidZ333 writes
2 - While I understand and appreciate those who are tired of the lump
debate,
I find it most fascinating and hope it continues. In fact I am planning on
writing an article on the debate and encourage anyone interested to share
his
or her thoughts about the Chevy powered Jaguar concept with me.
My thoughts on the lump issue? OK it’s a personal thing, there are several
that I
openly lust for (Shelby Cobras and Cadillac Allards come to mind) but this
isn’t one of
them. Nothing against the Chevy, I’ve owned and greatly enjoyed it in
Camaros,
SS’s etc - admit it, it’s a great little motor - if you must make a hybrid
it’s not a
bad choice, but that’s not for me.
One Jaguar Lover expressed frustration about the debate because, as he put
it, nobody looks under the hood anyway. Now, I ask you, is that revealing
or
what? Is that a metaphor or what?
Well, I can’t answer for anyone else but I DO look under the hood whenever I
can.
The mechanical beauty of the XK six and it’s appointments is always
impressive to me.
True, you can’t see it passing by on the street but if it’s my car I know
it’s there. Before
I actually got my car (1985 XJ-6 SIII) I seriously considered buying a
conversion or a
car with a good body and a sour engine to do the deed to. In the last 2
years of HEAVY
year-round New England driving and experiencing the magic of the car as it
was meant
to be, I could never do that to it now. The fuel consumption has averaged
18-22 MPG
in mixed spirited driving. The performance level is fine, I would like a
little more HP
so when the motor comes due for a rebuild I plan to go Brian Donovan’s and
have them
warm it up a little, but with 90,000 on it she still runs smooth & clean so
they probably
won’t be making any money from me for a while
Continuing further…
Huge clouds of whiteish smoke came from the exhaust the day befor ewe were
going to Elkart Lake for the Chicago Historic Races. I was near water and
added a gallon. Smoke smoke smoke the way home. Four miles later I added
another gallon. White smoke from the exhaust. Smoke from the radiator
filler. Blip the engine and bubbles bubbled.
And so, again I am without my Jaguar and am in need.
4 - I have a guess as to the problem of course, but what do you think the
chances are that it’s not serious?
The odds? Probably about the same as sprouting wings and flying a couple of
laps around the building
at lunch - Not absolutely impossible but it sounds HIGHLY unlikely :^(
5 - I have a 12,000 miles kick ass Chevy engine sitting in the corner of my
garage.
Put it in a Corvette! If that’s not an option,sell it and you’ve got your
rebuild money or
a pretty good chunk of it
6 - How many of you experienced a wave of intense disgust and fear a moment
ago?
Not disgust but disappointment. Real XKs get rarer every year I would not
want to modify
one. A decent replica (Shields coming up, Captain!) would be a good home for
the above
mentioned hot Chevy though. I have no problem with replicars as long you
don’t try to
tell people they’re the real McCoy. I saw a nicely done Sebring roadster
(Big Healey replicar)
with an LT-1 350 in it at a show a couple of weeks ago. Looked and sounded
like a lot of
fun - I liked it. Would I have liked it if it was a real AH with an engine
swap done to it? No,
for the same reason stated above. My opinions FWIW…
Best,
A.J. Owens
1985 XJ-6 Series III - Don’t worry baby, Jag you are - Jag you’ll stay
1982 Harley Davidson FXRS
From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 14:23 +0200
Subject: RE: Unleaded Petrol
It all depends if the valve inserts in your (and my) Daimler are made of a=20
hardened cast iron or not. It seems that the consensus is that the inserts=20
of Jaguar cylinder heads have the right properties, but this is not at all=20
sure for the Daimler. I will use leaded super (97octane) as long as it is=20
available and when not anymore frequently check the valve clearances. If=20
they diminish very rapidly, then the only other solution is to have=20
modified the cylinder heads with higher quality inserts. I don’t believe=20
much in additives for this problem.
Frans.
I’ve been following this thread with interest. The consensus seems to be=20
that
it
is OK to run with unleaded in older Jags, but with certain caveats.Now being mechanically challenged, I don’t always follow the technical
arguments. So, a simpe question:Is it OK to run my standard 1967 250 V8 Daimler with unleaded or not ?
And if i DO run it on unleaded, do I need to add any additives of some=20
sort
or
other ?
David Brown, Merrill Lynch
brownd@ml.com
From: Peter Carpenter afp332@bangor.ac.uk
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 13:45:26 +0100 (BST)
Subject: Re: Cleaning Wire wheels
I was given a tip via Jaguar Enthusiast Club magazine: after cleaning the
wheels, use a bathroom silicon sealant type stuff on the heads of the
wires in the hub, to prevent the grease slooshing straight out again.
Seems to have worked for me.
If you will excuse a bit of pedantry about another topic - in terms of
brake fluid, the word is hygroscopic.
Peter Carpenter
1967 420
UK
From: RWOODLIN@garfield.foods.indiana.edu
Date: 23 Jul 96 08:10:52 EDT
Subject: Model year
Cuno and others who may be interested,
From 1981 on the model year can be determined with the tenth letter in
the VIN number stamped on the body shell between the engine compartment
stiffeners.
The tenth letter denotes year of manufacture with B = 1981, C=1982,
D=1983, etc. A car manufactured in 1990 should have a K in the tenth
position. A more complete description of the VIN number can be found
in the appendix of Paul Skilleters book on the XJ-S.
Robert Woodling
'84 XJ-S H.E. (an ‘E’ of different stripes! :-} - now please no hate
mail or dispersions from owners of E-Types - They remain the most
beautifull of automobiles
From: Cosmo simond@informix.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 15:34:55 +0100
Subject: Originality debate
To my mind the “lump debate” is the thick end of the wedge.
Originality is fine but there are degrees to which things can
go and start getting out of control. [ This is a little long
winded but something I keep wanting to say ]
I’m all for keeping a car original but there sometimes comes a
point where it is imposible to keep the car running and still
original. If NOS is unobtainable then refurbished will do, if
you can’t get refurbished then get remanufactured if you can’t
get that, then try to find nearest replacement etc. A good
couple of examples were recently on the list indicating that
the AC compressor is the same on some Jags and GM cars, and a
vacuum switch that could be sourced generically rather than
specifically from Jaguar. I don’t have any problem using this
information to the full.
I have to confess that my '65 Mustang has remanufactured items
rather than 100% original - I didn’t want to pay $80+ dollars
for a NOS indicator stalk when I could get an exact functional
equivalent for $20. I can’t keep the car on the road if I insisted
on the real thing. I would have to sell it to the kind of guy who
delights in spending months tracking down an obscure grommit and
paying $$$$ for it when Halfords has a new equivalent for 2 quid.
My XJ6 will be the same, I’ll keep it running as best I can with
the budget that I have.
But it would take a lot of presure to try and convince me that
I needed to junk my XK engine (or the 289 from the Mustang) and
replace it with a Rover V8 (say). It just doesn’t make any sense!
Sorry for the rambling - just needed to get that off my chest.
Cosmo
83 XJ6 SIII
65 Mustang Fastback
From: LLoyd 3030P@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 96 08:02:35 PDT
Subject: Cleaning Chrome Wire Wheels
Guess I started out much the same as many of you, spending hours and hours
on each wheel. Tried different things.
But I found the quick solution. Sold in the US in a red spray bottle, and has
, I believe phosphoric acid (the acid that eats rust). Just spray it on and let
it set for a few minutes, and spray it off with a hose. Gets rid of rust, road
tar and anything else you don’t want. Then I dry them with compressed air with
one hand and hold a beer with the other.
Wish I’l have known about this stuff many houurs of labor ago…
LLoyd - old rithmeticians never die. They just converge to zero after an
infinate number of iterations. -
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #227
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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 23 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 228
Unleaded gas in cast iron seats
RE: first jag
RE: Unleaded Petrol
Re: Originality debate
RE: URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!!
I don’t believe it!
GM HEI Ignition Amplifier
RE: URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!!
parts cleaner
Re: wire wheel cleaner
Re: GM 400 Transmission Problem
Re: I don’t believe it!
Re: I don’t believe it!
2-1 TH400 Kickdown
Re: I don’t believe it!
RE : Booted out and P.O.ed
Re: Chevy lumps and broken toys
RE: parts cleaner
please HELP ME
From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 09:24:00 MDT
Subject: Unleaded gas in cast iron seats
Sodium filled exhaust valves would generally only be found on very high
performance cars. But do you know if the seats are made directly in the
head, ot whether they are inserts? In the latter case, they will probably
be hard enough to prevent the problem.
Truck engines in the US typically have sodium filled valves. I
generally am too cheap to replace normal old valves with sodium
filled ones since they are 2-3 times as expensive. The majority of older
cast iron US motors have cast iron seats. US auto manifacturers
began flame hardening some valve seats in the 80’s. The result was
that this introduced residual stresses into the castings which ended
up cracking many heads. Believe it or not, head castings for chevy
lumps are getting reasonably hard to find anymore because of this
problem. In the late 80’s, many of the US manufacturers began using
hardened seat inserts.
Various UK engine research labs (Esso and Shell springs to mind) don’t think
so.
The US Food and Drug Administration also says that quantities of certain chemicals
causes cancer in laboratory animals. in the US at least, many of us
have become skeptical of these kinds of results. They are generally
true in the absolute, but when compared to reality, they don’t
completely stand true.
I would also add that the US began mandating unleaded fuel in cars
built in 1975 and after. Thus, cast iron lumps with unhardened seats
running on unleaded is the standard for at least 10 years of
manufacture. I talked with a friend of mine who has been in the
engine machine shop business for two decades. His comment was that
they did not ever see any real differences in wear of valve seats
until about a year ago. They have seen a noticable increase in
exhaust valve wear on extremely high mileage motors. Coincidence or
caused by lack of lead mandated several years ago ? I don’t know.
He did say that if the valve guides are in good shape and the valves
and seats are properly ground, an older set of cast iron heads on
unleaded are good for 100,000+ miles.
THus, I think that we are both right. The lack of lead does cause
increased wear, but its not anything to lose sleep over if your motor
is in good operating condition.
And as Forrest Gump says, “That’s all that I’ve got to say about that
!”.
Kind regards,
JIm Cantrell
From: “Lauren E. Pratt” pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 96 09:55:18 PDT
Subject: RE: first jag
Jason Philbrook says he was doing 50 in a 30 MPH zone,
and that is why his insurance will be so high.
Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 7/23/96
Time: 9:55:18 AM
From: “Lauren E. Pratt” pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 96 10:12:37 PDT
Subject: RE: Unleaded Petrol
Some where I read that XK engines after about 1968 used
a exhaust valve seat insert that would survive the non leaded
fuel. I will look it up and post the information.
Cheers Lauren
Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 7/23/96
Time: 10:12:37 AM
From: DavidZ333@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 12:31:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Originality debate
But you see, it is not just an abstract originality debate. Sure, one might
install an unoriginal starter motor and rather live comfortably with that;
however, I am asking Jaguar lovers to consider, for one thing, the engine.
It is not only a question of function : not does it go but how does it go.
It is a question of aesthetics : do you want to see an orange painted
steel valve cover or an aluminum cam cover when you open the bonnet?
As I said previously, I hope to write an article re this subject and would
enjoy hearing from anyone who is not bored with the topic.
Pax David Z
From: ifinlay@vossnet.co.uk (Ian Finlay)
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 17:34:26 +0100
Subject: RE: URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!!
I disagree with you in your generalisation. From memory (YMMV):
A classic car mag over here (UK) ran a test with a mid-60s Austin land
crab.
After a few K miles on unleaded the valve seats had receeded such that
the head was basically scrap. This was an iron head car, as are all of mine
except the MKII.
On Jul 21, 1996 11:29:39, ‘JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)’ wrote:
You can relax. This is just a knee jerk response. The gasoline will do
nothing except shorten the lifetime of the valve seats. And not by much.
Good grief! Follow these simple instructions:
- Insert head in sand
- Everything is fine
All the letters to your MP, what ever that is, wont make any difference.
Your view of democracy is possibly colo(u)red by your culture. Ours works,
more or less. At least we don’t have to elect our Queen … or is Bill
really
in charge?! (Note: humourous diversion - continue in talk.soc.politics or
somewhere)
We have been running on the new gasoline for about 10 years here in the US
and the old cars are still tooling around out there. Nothing has changed.
Old US cars may well still be running. My '56 F100 with it’s original 272
Y-block
V8 ran useably with virtually no compression on two cylinders, broken rings
and
no distributor advance. The exhaust was very leaky, and the valves needed
grinding in. It could still pull tree stumps out! I don’t fancy trying to
run a 3.8l
XK like this.
The same such “warning” and “urgent” letters were flying when they got rid
of leaded gas here and it was all a waste of time because.
1>) no one listens
If you don’t speak, no one has anything to listen to. In Europe, battles
just like
this have been won by the Motorcycling groups (100bhp limits), the car
lobby
(mandatory type approval, retrofitting of stuff like seat belts, orange
indicators,
continuous taxation) and others.
2>) its really not a problem.
For you. Anyway, since it sounds like you volunteered, you can pay for
the 8 cylinder heads I’ll have to repair/convert.
Really, Alan, get down off your soapbox and quit stiring up imaginary
trouble.
Don’t.
–
Jim“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil
Nance is short for “nancy boy” presumably.
Ian
From: “MarrioSD” marriosd@ccmail.apldbio.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 96 10:06:09 PDT
Subject: I don’t believe it!
Hi
Last month I bought a 65 ‘S’ type Jag and immediately joined the email group in
the hope of gaining insight and information on the Marque.
I asked a question - my boot is shut and locked and I can’t open it, I wanted to
know if anybody could suggest a way of opening it without using a crow bar.
I got “1” reply message telling me the key for the glove box and the boot are
the same, I can’t open the glove box either.
SOMEBODY MADE A STUPID BLOODY COMMENT ABOUT HIS CAR IS NOT A TOY AND GETS DOZENS
OF REPLIES!!!
SOMEBODY ELSE MENTIONS TOOLS AND AGAIN WE THRASH SEARS VS HOME DEPOT VS WALL
MARTS TOOLS TO DEATH!!
Am I missing something here, aren’t we supposed to be offering help to other
Jaguar owners.
I need some help here guys, how about it.
Regards
Steve.
Livermore, CA
1965 ‘S’ Type Jag
1971 Jensen Interceptor MK II
1974 Triumph TR6
1992 Ford Explorer
1993 Kawasaki Ninza 750
From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 11:10:36 +0700
Subject: GM HEI Ignition Amplifier
FWIW,
The GM HEI electronic ignition module DOES work on my '85 SIII XJ6. I’ve
done no formal testing to make sure it reacts properly in every
possible performance scenario, but it runs. I don’t present this as
an ultimate replacement, but if your Lucas amplifier dies, then you
can use a GM unit as a short term (and low cost, US$13.99) solution
to hold you over until your (US$240.00) Lucas unit arrives.
Greg
G. W. Price & Company, Ltd
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Probabilistic Record Linkage Services
Consultants in research, information management
and program evaluation
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 12:38:26 -0500
Subject: RE: URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!!
I disagree with you in your generalisation. From memory (YMMV):
A classic car mag over here (UK) ran a test with a mid-60s Austin land
crab.
After a few K miles on unleaded the valve seats had receeded such that
the head was basically scrap. This was an iron head car, as are all of mine
I will bet they never tore down the engine first. The dammage was already
there.
You disagree from a very precarious position. You don’t use the stuff over
there and here in the US it has been mandated for 15 years. We have first
hand knowledge, not speculation by a magazine.
Here in the US I have been running a 1970 VW (and you know those are not
quality engines) and a 1974 Bricklin, also a cast iron head with no
problewms for 15 years on unleaded.
Its all scare tactics. As stated by several people on the list. Only
stationary engines that run continously at high load have a problem with
unleaded.
When the unleaded is mandated you will suddenly hear horror stories of
engines failing due to the gas. The truth is the engines were old and about
to fail long before they used the gas. When they fail the owners blame the
gas.
Its pure bull shit and I would think that the rest of the world could see
that after 15 years here in the states wher leaded gas is not available
(actualy illegal), cars are not failing. Here in the Southwest US cars last
longer than in Europe because they dont rust out as fast. It is not unusual
to see 30 year old cars running around with obviously little maintenance. I
am not talking about collectors cars, I am talking about junkers that are
still used for transportation. If there was a problem with unleaded it
would have shown up, and it hasnt. Those old junkers continue to putter along.
I run a 1972 Ford Cortina engine in my Formula Ford race car. It runs at
7000 rpm for 15 to 20 laps of the track. No problems! At least not with
the head… #8-)
There may be a problem with the plastic fittings in carbruetors if unleaded
with alcohol additives is used. This has been shown in Arizona USA where
they mandate alcohol in the summer to reduce polution, but that is a
separate and easly fixable problem. A few replacement parts in the carb
fixes this. But and I repeat, there are no major problems traceable to
unleaded in a car engine. And there are 15 (Fifteen) years of experience to
back this statement up.
Jim
===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"
John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: Robert_Abascal@ccmail.orl.mmc.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 11:20 -0500 (EST)
Subject: parts cleaner
Has anyone tried to clean parts using a concentration of Drano (a
commercial liquid drain unclogger)? I saw it on TV once and thought
I'd give it a try. It could remove paint, grease, grime, and even
rust! It looked so much easier than sand blasting. If anyone has
tried this please post any tips and the dilution of the drain cleaner.
robert abascal '63 OTS & '66 Coupe XKE
From: Robert_Abascal@ccmail.orl.mmc.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 11:25 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: wire wheel cleaner
I used wire wheel cleaner that was bought from the local car detailing
supply shop. It's some kind of nasty acid. Just spray on, let it
soak for a minute, scrub with a wirewheel brush (long and pointy), and
hose off. I was told by a detail guy to spray amor-all (white general
dressing) to stabilize(?) the acid afterwards. The results are
amazing.
robert abascal '63 OTS & '66 Coupe XKE
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 13:19:11 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: GM 400 Transmission Problem
Stuck governor? Don’t know if this would cause these symptoms, but I
believe that you can pull it with the trans in the car.
On Fri, 19 Jul 1996, David A. Blender wrote:
Hello all:
Here we go again with my 1985 XJS HE…
This time I was on my way home from work today and all was working
wonderfully with the car… I was traveling about 70 mph and passed a
car by doing so, just for fun I pressed all the way down on the
accelerator until the passing switch was depressed…it kicked in and
really went flying. About 3-4 miles down the highway I encountered
heavy traffic and slowed down. As I went to speed back up I noticed
that the the transmission was not shifting out of first gear…it
revved up fairly high 4-5k rpms and still no shifting to second or
third etc… Also, when I stepped on the accelerator it felt like the
engine would need to rev high to engage and continue moving the car
forward… When I manually moved the transmission to 2nd or 3rd it was
engaging. When I put it into 1st and proceeded then let up on the
accelerator it had a sensation of the transmission not even being
engaged until I stepped back on the accelerator…then it felt like it
was re-engaging. What the heck is this???F.Y.I.
I recently had the transmission rebuilt and replaced the torque
converter…all about 6,000 miles ago. The engine was rebuilt 8,000
miles ago. The body and frame have 97,000 miles. The car has been
running very strong.
It just does not make sense. I checked under the bonnet or hood to
see if the vacuum that leads to the modulator at the transmission is
attached…yes, it is…If anyone knows anything about what this might be…or has had
experience similar to mine…please write me and let me know what it
might be or what I can do to rectify the problem.Many thanks…
David A. Blender
1985 XJS HE
From: lupienj@wal.hp.com (John Lupien)
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 96 15:01:18 EDT
Subject: Re: I don’t believe it!
I asked a question - my boot is shut and locked and I can’t open it, I wanted to
know if anybody could suggest a way of opening it without using a crow bar.
I need some help here guys, how about it.
Hi Steve,
Sorry if you didn’t like the first couple of flame wars you saw
on the list. Here’s something that may help you: check out the following
on the WWW:
http://www.lysator.liu.se:7500/mit-guide/mit-guide.html
It’s all about how to pick locks…
John R. Lupien
lupienj@wal.hp.com
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 20:54:48 +0200
Subject: Re: I don’t believe it!
[ “MarrioSD” marriosd@ccmail.apldbio.com ]
|
| I asked a question - my boot is shut and locked and I can’t open it, I wanted to
| know if anybody could suggest a way of opening it without using a crow bar.
Perhaps you should rephrase it, maybe along the lines of having
locked your tools in the boot and need them to remove the lump
the PO put in your toy
Seriously though, cheer up, ask again and maybe you’ll get a reply.
Don’t expect the world, the people on the list are only here
because they are enthusiasts, not because they are paid to offer
advice.
The advice is free, and frequently worth what you pay.
Nick
<<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>>
<<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>>
The JagWeb http://www.sn.no/~nick/jaguar.html <<<
From: jwh@dwrock.dw.lucent.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 96 13:54:00 PDT
Subject: 2-1 TH400 Kickdown
on my 88 XJ-S V12, the tranny will sometimes, but not always kickdown 2 -1.
If I want to make sure it does, I manually downshift. It will go 1 -2 with
the shifter in 1 as a engine/tranny safety design they all have. I did add
a shift kit that allows for a more firmer shift and the tires will “chirp”
on 1-2 hard execration. To me this sometimes 2 - 1 kickdown is normal for
GM trannys. I had the same thing with a TH350 in 2 Trans Am’s I had, but
they would kickdown more readily but were not as reliable. For reference,
when I needed a part for my tranny, the Chevy dealer had to lookup the part
for a 88 truck, ( not in a passenger car for that year ) kinda gives me a
little more confidence in the tranny. 96K on it without a rebuild and still
seems strong to me.
John Himes
88 XJ-S 96K Miles
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 16:36:48 -0400
Subject: Re: I don’t believe it!
On Jul 23, 10:06am, MarrioSD wrote:
Subject: I don’t believe it!
HiLast month I bought a 65 ‘S’ type Jag and immediately joined the email group
in
the hope of gaining insight and information on the Marque.I asked a question - my boot is shut and locked and I can’t open it, I wanted
to
know if anybody could suggest a way of opening it without using a crow bar.
Sorry Steve,
Bet you are getting more responses now! The squeaky wheel…
I am no help at all on locks since I just spent a week and a half trying to
get the ignition tumbler out of my 1980 Caddy Coupe De Ville (it is sooo hard
to admit that that is my daily driver - the Mini is broke again). Anyway, I
used a dent puller on the Caddy lock. Now you can write a post about stupid
replys.
Mark McChesney
- -well, it worked.
From: DavidZ333@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 16:39:11 -0400
Subject: RE : Booted out and P.O.ed
Steve and Jaguar lovers,
While I empathize and sympathize with Steve’s problem and surely hope he can
be helped soon, I must point out that I did not receive dozens of responses
to my “STUPID” statement expressing my attitude re my Jaguar : “My Jaguar is
not a toy.” far from it. I wish I had.
Please forgive my repetitiousness, but for anyone interested in the deeper
questions provoked by “man and his machines”, I look forward to your
comments.
Steve, why are you upset; it’s only a toy.
From: DavidZ333@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 16:44:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Chevy lumps and broken toys
Good posting David.
I must say that I feel very conflicted over this debate. I have an E-type
that I am doing things to that would make some purists cringe (but not a
V-8).
Does that make me a hypocrite?
I have, as I have said, friends that have V-8 ‘Jags’, and I understand why
they did the conversions (understanding dose not mean agreeing). I think
that
Ed Freige has done the responsible thing w/ his E-type conversion in that he
has saved the original motor and can reinstall it at will.
It is obviously an owners own business as to what he/she does w/ their car,
but what is the long term consequences of so many conversions being done?
This
has to have an effect on the availability of original XK engined (&V-12s!)
cars. If you doubt this ask “Johns Cars” how many conversions they have done
in
the last 10 yrs!
I don’t have an XJ-6 but some time in the future I plan to get one. The
best
S1 (SWB) that I know of has a 350 in it, and I am tempted to buy it because
the
body is so good. What does this say about the market for these cars - at
least
in my area? (Eechhhh, what does that say about me?) Actually, this car would
be
much more desirable to me if it had the Xk motor still in it.
Peer presure can have an effect on peoples decision to convert. Should we
start a “stop the senseless carnage campaign”? Can we make it unfashionable
to
convert? Can we on the list have any effect at all?
I do apologize to the European members of the list for continuing this
thread, as I know that it has little interest to many of them.
I’ll stop now.
Mark McChesney
Forwarded message:
From: mmcchesn@ford.com (Mark McChesney)
To: DavidZ333@aol.com
Date: 96-07-23 11:49:01 EDT
Good posting David.
I must say that I feel very conflicted over this debate. I have an E-type
that I am doing things to that would make some purists cringe (but not a
V-8).
Does that make me a hypocrite?
I have, as I have said, friends that have V-8 ‘Jags’, and I understand why
they did the conversions (understanding dose not mean agreeing). I think
that
Ed Freige has done the responsible thing w/ his E-type conversion in that he
has saved the original motor and can reinstall it at will.
It is obviously an owners own business as to what he/she does w/ their car,
but what is the long term consequences of so many conversions being done?
This
has to have an effect on the availability of original XK engined (&V-12s!)
cars. If you doubt this ask “Johns Cars” how many conversions they have done
in
the last 10 yrs!
I don’t have an XJ-6 but some time in the future I plan to get one. The
best
S1 (SWB) that I know of has a 350 in it, and I am tempted to buy it because
the
body is so good. What does this say about the market for these cars - at
least
in my area? (Eechhhh, what does that say about me?) Actually, this car would
be
much more desirable to me if it had the Xk motor still in it.
Peer presure can have an effect on peoples decision to convert. Should we
start a “stop the senseless carnage campaign”? Can we make it unfashionable
to
convert? Can we on the list have any effect at all?
I do apologize to the European members of the list for continuing this
thread, as I know that it has little interest to many of them.
I’ll stop now.
Mark McChesney
From: “Lauren E. Pratt” pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 96 14:37:13 PDT
Subject: RE: parts cleaner
I have not used Draino to clean auto parts, but it
does clean the pitch from a saw blade.
Cheers Lauren
Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 7/23/96
Time: 2:37:13 PM
This message was sent by Chameleon
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 23:02:48 +0200
Subject: please HELP ME
After I got home from work tonight (it is now 11pm …) I thought I shoukd
check what I need to replace on my A/C clutch. I had a hard time to get
of the screw of, but thanks to my new impact wrench I got it loose.
I cleaned up with engine cleaner (the compressor is still connected to
the A/C in the car and I tried to extract the clutch. Since my extractors
where too large, I said,ok put it back in car. When I put on a new screw,
I found the clutch stuck ! I re-installed the compressor and thought the
clutch would come free under load, but is stuck. So the compressor
is runni g all the time and this is not good. Sometimes after start the
clutch does not full engage, but after a few second it does. We planned
to go on a trip this week-end … Marie-Anne is delighted about my “fix”
What can I do ? I,ve put on some WD40 in case somethng is bound, but I guess
that’s not a good idea either. AARGGGHHH
Any help/advice would be greqly appreciated. I guess I won’t sleep well,
but before I mess up furthere[DI stop
thanks in advance
-
- Matthias
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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 24 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 229
parts cleaner
Re: URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!!
[none]
Re: A/C compressor clutch / oil pressure
Re: Fire extinguishers
Re: GM 400 Transmission Problem
XJ-S Steering Wheel
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #215 from Tom Felts
Re: Unleaded gas in cast iron seats
Re: Originality debate
Re: parts cleaner
Re: Whine at 60 mph (fwd)
Re: I don’t believe it!
Lumpectomy anyone?
[General] Gasoline information
Radar Detectors, Ignition Problems: XKE and General Interest
Re: Unleaded gas in cast iron seats
Kimmo & URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!!
1980 XJ6 Series 3
From: Robert_Abascal%ccmail.orl.mmc.com@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 11:20 -0500 (EST)
Subject: parts cleaner
What an idea !?!?
-
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Has anyone tried to clean parts using a concentration of Drano (a
commercial liquid drain unclogger)? I saw it on TV once and thought
I’d give it a try. It could remove paint, grease, grime, and even
rust! It looked so much easier than sand blasting. If anyone has
tried this please post any tips and the dilution of the drain cleaner.Also, can this be kept over time in a container? Does it loose it’s
potency?LLoyd
From: kimmo kimmo@kimmo.demon.co.uk
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 01:00:46 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!!
I’m sorry that this is my first message to this group and it’s negative.
This is an urgent message for all Uk owners:
I don’t know if I qualify in Alan’s category of “Uk owners” as I’m an
European owning a Jaguar (XJ6 4.2 Sovereign Ser III, -86) in UK but here’s
my comment anyway…
I just can’t understand that in 1996 you still have people who don’t
understand the environmental problems we are facing. I’m originally from
Scandinavia where the awareness of environmental problems is very high,
even when there’s still plenty of “clean” environment to “waste”.
As hopefully everyone knows cars are still one of the biggest cause for
environmental problems so any measures for reducing exhaust emissions
should be concern of us all. It’s so ignorant to just worry about ones
classic car without seeing the big picture. I hope Alan doesn’t have kids,
as they would be in the end paying for the Alan’s classic car…
I’m a great fan of Jags and 50’s-70’s American cars, but it’s still a HOBBY
for me, it’s not the most important thing in my life. If it is for
somebody, that’s sad…
Of course one could ask who am I to moralize others as I’m driving an
unenvironmental Jaguar. It’s a contradiction I gladly admit, but as a film
maker who has made several environmental films I explain to myself that I’m
allowed to have this one vice. Also I’ve been able to go from V8 down to
straight 6, that’s an improvement, isn’t it?
Why oh Why did we join these idiots in Brussels?
Alan, my dear honourable friend, to be frank, if you don’t know why
reducing exhaust emissions is important I’m sure you don’t understand why
UK is a member in EU. It’s an even more complicated issue and it’s not
Jaguar related…
Kimmo
“Sorry again, but this annoyed me greatly”…
Alan wrote:
According to todays (20/7/96) Daily Telegraph," Leaded Four star could
become a
thing of the past under European Commission proposals for cleaner air. If they
are adopted by Britain, the last unleaded fuel will be sold here on December
31st 1999.
Owners of the 2.2Million cars in Britain including 150,000 classic cars will
face huge bills for converting to unleaded fuel
the EC proposals are contained in the “Auto Oil” package of measures aimed at
reducing road transport emmissions by up to 70 percent by 2010 and setting
rigorous quality standards EVEN MORE SEVERE THAN THOSE OF THE UNITED STATES!
many owners of older cars risk serious cylinder head damage if they try to run
their cars on unleaded petrol. Although lead substitute petrol additives
are on
sale they are yet to be proven.
According to Shell’s fuel development manager, Dr Katherine Hickey, a viable
substitute for lead in four star had not been found"Contact your MP urgently, and tell him that this proposal must NOt be
implemented until a viable substitute has been foundWhy oh Why did we join these idiots in Brussels?
regards
Alan Akeister
From: Gordon Airs gordon@airs.demon.co.uk
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 23:10:34 GMT
Subject: [none]
I now have a very nice 1958 Jaguar XK150 dhc, 3.4 overdrive, British
racing green. However, it has the obvious remnants of a luggage rack
on the outside of the boot lid. I am very anxious to either fit the
appropriate missing parts, or fit another similar rack. There are two
chromed straps, one and a half inch wide, each with two bolts, on the
back of the boot. They are about 18 inches long, and about 24 inches
apart. Each strap has a bend-over angle pointing rearwards with a
small round hole. The top angles protrude 2 and a half inches, ther
bottom ones by 4 and a half inches.
If any XK 150 Jag-lovers recognise this, and can help me I would be
very grateful!
GORDON AIRS, Kilmacolm, Renfrewshire, Scotland, that’s UK.
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 24 Jul 96 11:39:17
Subject: Re: A/C compressor clutch / oil pressure
As for the oil pressure, Matthias, this is one of the less brilliant parts of
the V12 design. The oil pump is very cleverly arranged around the front end of
the crankshaft, but the sump and hence the oil suction is at the back end, with
a large (around 20-25 mm?) pipe, and there’s no foot valve to keep this pipe
full of oil.
So when you start, the pump has to a) work up suction, b) fill that long pipe
and c) fill an equally long and large pipe back to the relief valve and oil
pressure switch, which are (of course) located right at the back. All you can
do is let the engine idle gently until the magic light goes out, plus a couple
of seconds…
And yes, I plan to fit a suitable foot valve when I finally get down to
overhauling my spare engine…
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 24 Jul 96 11:51:33
Subject: Re: Fire extinguishers
Mine’s on a slope on the outer wall down the footwell, where it clears the
passenger’s ankles. BTW, I hope you’re aware that it needs to be taken out and
shaken every so often (say, every oil change) to stop the powder settling under
road vibrations to a hard cake - not that there’s a lot of road vibration in a
Jag…
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 24 Jul 96 11:47:31
Subject: Re: GM 400 Transmission Problem
Jim Cantrell :
All of my TH400 transmissions
go 2-1 or 3-2 based on the lickdown - stock or not.
That’s not what the SII Jaguar V12 workshop manual specifies, Jim.
-
- Jan
From: Floyd Mah fsmah@pacbell.net
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 18:02:17 -0700
Subject: XJ-S Steering Wheel
I would like to put in a vote for the Nardi wheel. When I
bought my '87 XJ6 last year, the PO advertised the car as having a Nardi
wheel. Of course, I had no idea what he was referring to, but when I
called him up, he spent almost as much time talking about the steering
wheel as the car. He would have transferred it to his new '95 XJ40 if
it were not for the different configuration required by an air bag. He
gave me the original steering wheel, which I have in my closet, but the
Nardi wheel has grown on me and I think it’s pretty cool.
Apparently Nardi used to make racing cars before steering wheels,
but it seems that the steering wheels are somewhat prized by car
enthusiasts. Terry’s Jaguar Parts catalog has the item on page 38
(item#1051). The steering wheel adapter list on the same page has a
Jaguar face as well. Good luck on your search.
Floyd Mah. '87 XJ6.
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 24 Jul 96 12:12:50
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #215 from Tom Felts
When you respond to something in the digest, could you please write something
significant in the Subject line, as it otherwise only shows the digest number.
I for one can’t afford the time to read every mail just to check if it’s about
something that matters to me.
From: wje@fir.esd.sgi.com (William J. Earl)
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 18:28:08 -0700
Subject: Re: Unleaded gas in cast iron seats
Jim Cantrell writes:
…
I would also add that the US began mandating unleaded fuel in cars
built in 1975 and after. Thus, cast iron lumps with unhardened seats
running on unleaded is the standard for at least 10 years of
manufacture. I talked with a friend of mine who has been in the
engine machine shop business for two decades. His comment was that
they did not ever see any real differences in wear of valve seats
until about a year ago. They have seen a noticable increase in
exhaust valve wear on extremely high mileage motors. Coincidence or
caused by lack of lead mandated several years ago ? I don’t know.
He did say that if the valve guides are in good shape and the valves
and seats are properly ground, an older set of cast iron heads on
unleaded are good for 100,000+ miles.THus, I think that we are both right. The lack of lead does cause
increased wear, but its not anything to lose sleep over if your motor
is in good operating condition.
…
Beside buying a Jaguar, I am also restoring a 1931 Ford Model A
Town Sedan. When I had the engine rebuilt, the machine shop (which
specializes in rebuilding antique engines) inserted hardened valve
seats. (The engine did not originally have valve seat inserts.) This
is a reasonable solution, particularly when one has the engine apart
anyway.
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 24 Jul 96 13:02:48
Subject: Re: Originality debate
I can see merit in keeping a very rare museum piece in the most original
condition possible. I wouldn’t think of tampering with a Mercedes SSKL for
instance (should I be so lucky as to find the only one unaccounted for and
possibly still existing) and if I couldn’t afford to keep it as a collector’s
piece, I’d sell it (D-B would probably offer $5M). I also wouldn’t swap out my
V12, even if it’s as common as fleas on a dog and by no means a museum piece,
because that glorious, outrageous monster engine is the only reason I have a
Jaguar. On the other hand, the next time my Isuzu 1-tonner craps out, I’ll take
great delight in swapping in a second-hand 4-cylinder Toyota twin cam and put
the Isuzu garbage where I can piss on it every day. And if one of my grandsons
wonders why I have defiled that Isuzu with a Toyota lump, I’ll just laugh
hysterically.
It boils down to what you keep a car for. If you’re into the preservation for
posterity thing, that’s what you do. If you want a car that’s fun to drive,
then you act accordingly and let others operate museums. When it comes right
down to it, it’s all self-indulgence, i.e., we do what we do because we feel
good about it. We just like our self-indulgence in different flavours, so lets
drop the righteousness act.
- -Jan
1977 XJ12C
1978 XJ12L
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 24 Jul 96 13:31:41
Subject: Re: parts cleaner
You need to be careful with the composition of the cleaner you use, Robert. If
it contains any sodium hydroxide (aka lye, washing soda, sugar soap) it will
strip the shine right off aluminium parts. Concentrated NAOH is great for
stripping paint and crud off cast iron parts, but if you leave, say, a cam
cover in it overnight, it’ll be gone by morning. It’s not wonderful for your
skin, either.
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 24 Jul 96 12:17:13
Subject: Re: Whine at 60 mph (fwd)
I’d just check the oil in the diff; they double do leak… If that doesn’t take
care of it I agree, I would wait until I find out whether there’s anything else
wrong in the rear sub-frame assembly before whipping it out.
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 24 Jul 96 13:22:53
Subject: Re: I don’t believe it!
Shucks, Steve, if I had an S-type I might be able to help you - but as all I
could offer was the obvious suggestion to consult a locksmith, which I assume
you already have (?), I couldn’t really contribute. You need facts about a rare
problem, and facts are hard to come by.
As to the other subjects you mention, they receive such response because they
are all about opinion. And opinions are like strings - every yo-yo has one…
BTW, how many keys do you have? On my XJs, the boot and doors have different
keys even though the part number for the locks is the same, so maybe you’re
just missing a key. If you have time and patience, you might try picking the
lock (I think it’s only a four-pin job) Insert the proverbial bobby pin
(they’re spring steel), press it down into the slot on the jagged side of the
key, apply light turning force to the cylinder with a small screwdriver and
withdraw the pin slowly. This calls for a certain amount of “touch” but why not
give it a try.
-
- Jan
77 XJ12C
78 XJ12L
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 22:40:16 -0400
Subject: Lumpectomy anyone?
Ad from the newsletter of the Jaguar Touring Club of New Jersey (USA):
FOR SALE
Jaguar V-12 Engine (Serial #AH 625)& Transmission (Serial #17066) with
intake&exhaust manifold, four 175CD2 Carbs, and original distributor. Driven
55K miles.
$2,000.00
Call 201-635-7557
Anyone for a reverse conversion?
Mike Frank
1969 XKE 2+2
From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 04:40:25 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: [General] Gasoline information
In reference to the current debate over unleaded gasoline I direct your
attention to the following WWW page:
http://www.public.iastate.edu/~punk/ice/ice.html
Under the section labelled “Technical Information: Fuel” (about 2 thirds
down the page) is a collection of links to different sources of
information about automotive gasoline, including a Gasoline FAQ.
Share and enjoy!
Gunnar
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar XJ6 4.2 Sovereign
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | Vicki who? What .sig virus?
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 23:05:19 -0400
Subject: Radar Detectors, Ignition Problems: XKE and General Interest
I recently bought a Uniden radar detector for the Jag. It went back to the
store almost immediately, because it kept signaling laser alerts. When a
Valentine 1 had the same problem, I began to suspect the car itself. Parking
the Jag nose to nose with my Saab, which is equipped with a Bell 615 remote,
I was able to trigger the Bell by revving the engine in the Jag!!!
The problem was in the Jag’s ignition system. I run a very, very original
set of copper core plug wires. Apparently, there was so much radio static
from the ignition, that radar detectors just wouldn’t work.
My copper core wires are an NOS set - lacquered insulation and fiberboard
organiser. I couldn’t see replacing them. So what I did was to install
resistor plugs. I also installed a length of standard, 7mm resistance cable
replacing the lead between the cap and the coil. This combination put enough
resistance in the circuit to quiet down the static without replacement of
the spark plug harness.
Now my radar detector works fine. So does the radio, not that it is
especially audible on the road!
The question is, did the Jag put out so much static that I was jamming
police radar?
If so, the radar detector could be more of a liability than an aid.
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
From: jello@dns.ida.net (Phil Bates)
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 21:50:44 -0600
Subject: Re: Unleaded gas in cast iron seats
Jim Cantrell writes:
I would also add that the US began mandating unleaded fuel in cars
built in 1975 and after.
I don’t believe this is 100% accurate. I distinctly recall our family
owning a 1979 Honda Accord CVCC that did not require unleaded fuel. I think
'75 was the first year for strict emmission standards in the U.S. that
caused most cars to put in catalytic converters, and thus use unleaded fuel.
The very first emmissions systems requirements were enacted in '68.
The CVCC engine design burned more efficiently, and thus avoided the
unleaded fuel requirements (but I don’t recall what CVCC meant, heck, I was
only 13).
Anyhow, it is all water under the bridge in the U.S. now, as you can no
longer buy leaded fuel without going to a local airport and paying almost
two times what premium no lead costs.
Phil Bates
67 MGB
75 Jaguar XJ12C
52 MG TD replicar (VW)
From: DavidZ333@aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 00:12:27 -0400
Subject: Kimmo & URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!!
Good for you, Kimmo !
For anyone who still has some hope left, as you seem to do, a bit of fun or
even comfort or a world of fun and comfort is not worth a planet and its
future. Terra’s no toy.
As for being hypocritical by owning a gas guzzler or an emissions monster,
there is no way for even lots and lots of people to be pure and have any
significant effect on the environment. IMHO either we all agree on the
goal and focus on it sincerly, honestly, and rationally - and accept the cost
-
- or it’s all over; we’re closing in.
Pax
Davidz
From: Tommy loner@peterboro.net
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 00:16:05 -0400
Subject: 1980 XJ6 Series 3
Hey All Jag Lovers:
I've been sittin' pretty smug lately as I've followed various threads =
concerning a/c and the like.
After substantial body work and a respray, the likes of which I started =
last spring, I’ve just put my 1980 XJ6 back on the road. Fully insured, =
licensed, and ready to roll. It’s been sittin’ still for six years - =
except when it was dragged from house move to house move. The last =
licence sticker was dated 1990! That’s when it was cobalt blue - now =
it’s signal red!
Mechanically, I've done very little. Changed the oil, filters, front =
windscreen, master cylinder, some brake lines, etc.
I've been running the car for the past two weeks and it's been =
flawless. All the lighting and electrics work, braking is fully =
effective, engine smooth and quiet, automatic transmission smooth - even =
the damned air conditioning runs like it did six years ago!
I spoke too soon.
Petrol odours. Exhaust ready to drop. Intermittent (?) leak of =
transmission fluid. Wheel bearings heating up. Mysterious signal and =
side light problems. Speedometer and odometer non-functional. In need of =
front wheel alignment. Power window won’t close. Power window won’t =
open. Power locks won’t lock. Petrol odours.
And that's just happened since the weekend!
Now the games begin.
Be on the lookout for frequent requests for advice - coming to a user's =
group near you.
<<<<<<<<<< Tommy >>>>>>>>>>
loner@peterboro.net
“Lost in the hills of Cavan”
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #229
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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 24 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 230
Re: Radar Detectors, Ignition Problems: XKE and General Interest
jag historical data?
Re: Kimmo & URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!!
jag historical data?
Re: Kimmo & URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!!
jag historical data?
Re: Kimmo & URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!!
jag historical data?
Re: Kimmo & URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!!
RE: URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!
RE: URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!
jag historical data?
Re: Kimmo & URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!!
RE: URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!
jag historical data?
Re: Kimmo & URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!!
Insults?
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 24 Jul 96 16:04:51
Subject: Re: Radar Detectors, Ignition Problems: XKE and General Interest
Mike Frank :
The question is, did the Jag put out so much static that I was jamming
police radar?
That’s a definite possibility, although I’d have expected the bonnet to be a
fairly effective screen. A spark transmitter will radiate over a very broad
band, although it should peak at frequencies where the ignition cables are
fractions and multiples of the wavelength. The repetition frequency of the
spark (rpm dependent) may also be significant to pulsed Doppler radars.
My Vincent Black Shadow had ignition leads around the front of the engine that
must have resonated near the then (late sixties) Swedish police radar
frequency; I was pulled up for doing 260 km/h (160 mph) which was quite
flattering, but I had no trouble convincing the Servants of the State that this
was manifest nonsense and their equipment must have been malfunctioning because
a) it was 50 km/h (31 mph) faster than the official top speed of the Shadow, b)
they checked me just after a rather small roundabout in a 50 km/h zone and c)
if I had been going that fast, I would have been quite unable to pull up when
they flagged me down. So I got away without paying a fine for my actual 75 km/h
(46 mph)…
- -Jan
77 XJ12C
78 XJ12L
From: jagbob@ix.netcom.com (Robert W. Rankin )
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 23:29:04 -0700
Subject: jag historical data?
Hi listees,
A friend owns a 1966 E-Type, and asked me if I knew how to find
out about the history of his car. You know, the original color, sales
record, date of manufacture, etc. Can anyone help me out here? I
suppose I could write to JCNA or Jaguar, but if anyone has an address,
I’d appreciate it. I have done this for some of my old Triumphs and
maybe it is the same. Heritage Trust, or what ever? Thanks.
jagbob@ix.netcom.com
Bob Rankin
Carson City, NV, USA
1949 TR2000 Rdstr
1959 TR-3A
1980 TR-8
1970 E-Type 2+2
1975 XJ6C
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 24 Jul 96 17:33:34
Subject: Re: Kimmo & URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!!
DavidZ333 (one of the New Hampshire Z333s?) :
As for being hypocritical by owning a gas guzzler or an emissions monster,
there is no way for even lots and lots of people to be pure and have any
significant effect on the environment. IMHO either we all agree on the
goal and focus on it sincerly, honestly, and rationally - and accept the cost
- or it’s all over; we’re closing in.
This is of course only peripherally Jag-related, but as this observation
implies, we can have a small number of heavily polluting people and no problem,
a large number of less polluting people and a bearable problem or a very large
number of people who hardly pollute at all - and one hell of a problem. It
seems that quite unthinkingly, the world has assumed that we must have the
maximum number of people and hence must cut pollution regardless of expense.
There is no specific advantage in jamming as many people as possible on to the
Earth.
If you extrapolate present and physically possible trends, it is clear that
pollution control is at best a temporary solution and we must reach the point
where nature cannot absorb the mere biological effluent from the human
population even if it engages in no activity whatever beyond manual food
production (and, of course, procreation). Well within a century, too, except
that the Hunger Wars of 2014 will put a kink in the graph…
So why don’t we stop wasting resources on a futile temporary solution and
concentrate on reducing not the population rate of increase, but the
population. I’m not necessarily advocating retroactive birth control, but
surely a smaller population (that can allow itself to drive Jaguars without
destroying the Earth) is a better long-term solution than making everybody’s
life boring, colourless and overcrowded?
:3+)
- -Jan
From: jagbob@ix.netcom.com (Robert W. Rankin )
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 23:29:04 -0700
Subject: jag historical data?
Hi listees,
A friend owns a 1966 E-Type, and asked me if I knew how to find
out about the history of his car. You know, the original color, sales
record, date of manufacture, etc. Can anyone help me out here? I
suppose I could write to JCNA or Jaguar, but if anyone has an address,
I’d appreciate it. I have done this for some of my old Triumphs and
maybe it is the same. Heritage Trust, or what ever? Thanks.
jagbob@ix.netcom.com
Bob Rankin
Carson City, NV, USA
1949 TR2000 Rdstr
1959 TR-3A
1980 TR-8
1970 E-Type 2+2
1975 XJ6C
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 24 Jul 96 17:33:34
Subject: Re: Kimmo & URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!!
DavidZ333 (one of the New Hampshire Z333s?) :
As for being hypocritical by owning a gas guzzler or an emissions monster,
there is no way for even lots and lots of people to be pure and have any
significant effect on the environment. IMHO either we all agree on the
goal and focus on it sincerly, honestly, and rationally - and accept the cost
- or it’s all over; we’re closing in.
This is of course only peripherally Jag-related, but as this observation
implies, we can have a small number of heavily polluting people and no problem,
a large number of less polluting people and a bearable problem or a very large
number of people who hardly pollute at all - and one hell of a problem. It
seems that quite unthinkingly, the world has assumed that we must have the
maximum number of people and hence must cut pollution regardless of expense.
There is no specific advantage in jamming as many people as possible on to the
Earth.
If you extrapolate present and physically possible trends, it is clear that
pollution control is at best a temporary solution and we must reach the point
where nature cannot absorb the mere biological effluent from the human
population even if it engages in no activity whatever beyond manual food
production (and, of course, procreation). Well within a century, too, except
that the Hunger Wars of 2014 will put a kink in the graph…
So why don’t we stop wasting resources on a futile temporary solution and
concentrate on reducing not the population rate of increase, but the
population. I’m not necessarily advocating retroactive birth control, but
surely a smaller population (that can allow itself to drive Jaguars without
destroying the Earth) is a better long-term solution than making everybody’s
life boring, colourless and overcrowded?
:3+)
- -Jan
From: jagbob@ix.netcom.com (Robert W. Rankin )
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 23:29:04 -0700
Subject: jag historical data?
Hi listees,
A friend owns a 1966 E-Type, and asked me if I knew how to find
out about the history of his car. You know, the original color, sales
record, date of manufacture, etc. Can anyone help me out here? I
suppose I could write to JCNA or Jaguar, but if anyone has an address,
I’d appreciate it. I have done this for some of my old Triumphs and
maybe it is the same. Heritage Trust, or what ever? Thanks.
jagbob@ix.netcom.com
Bob Rankin
Carson City, NV, USA
1949 TR2000 Rdstr
1959 TR-3A
1980 TR-8
1970 E-Type 2+2
1975 XJ6C
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 24 Jul 96 17:33:34
Subject: Re: Kimmo & URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!!
DavidZ333 (one of the New Hampshire Z333s?) :
As for being hypocritical by owning a gas guzzler or an emissions monster,
there is no way for even lots and lots of people to be pure and have any
significant effect on the environment. IMHO either we all agree on the
goal and focus on it sincerly, honestly, and rationally - and accept the cost
- or it’s all over; we’re closing in.
This is of course only peripherally Jag-related, but as this observation
implies, we can have a small number of heavily polluting people and no problem,
a large number of less polluting people and a bearable problem or a very large
number of people who hardly pollute at all - and one hell of a problem. It
seems that quite unthinkingly, the world has assumed that we must have the
maximum number of people and hence must cut pollution regardless of expense.
There is no specific advantage in jamming as many people as possible on to the
Earth.
If you extrapolate present and physically possible trends, it is clear that
pollution control is at best a temporary solution and we must reach the point
where nature cannot absorb the mere biological effluent from the human
population even if it engages in no activity whatever beyond manual food
production (and, of course, procreation). Well within a century, too, except
that the Hunger Wars of 2014 will put a kink in the graph…
So why don’t we stop wasting resources on a futile temporary solution and
concentrate on reducing not the population rate of increase, but the
population. I’m not necessarily advocating retroactive birth control, but
surely a smaller population (that can allow itself to drive Jaguars without
destroying the Earth) is a better long-term solution than making everybody’s
life boring, colourless and overcrowded?
:3+)
- -Jan
From: jagbob@ix.netcom.com (Robert W. Rankin )
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 23:29:04 -0700
Subject: jag historical data?
Hi listees,
A friend owns a 1966 E-Type, and asked me if I knew how to find
out about the history of his car. You know, the original color, sales
record, date of manufacture, etc. Can anyone help me out here? I
suppose I could write to JCNA or Jaguar, but if anyone has an address,
I’d appreciate it. I have done this for some of my old Triumphs and
maybe it is the same. Heritage Trust, or what ever? Thanks.
jagbob@ix.netcom.com
Bob Rankin
Carson City, NV, USA
1949 TR2000 Rdstr
1959 TR-3A
1980 TR-8
1970 E-Type 2+2
1975 XJ6C
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 24 Jul 96 17:33:34
Subject: Re: Kimmo & URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!!
DavidZ333 (one of the New Hampshire Z333s?) :
As for being hypocritical by owning a gas guzzler or an emissions monster,
there is no way for even lots and lots of people to be pure and have any
significant effect on the environment. IMHO either we all agree on the
goal and focus on it sincerly, honestly, and rationally - and accept the cost
- or it’s all over; we’re closing in.
This is of course only peripherally Jag-related, but as this observation
implies, we can have a small number of heavily polluting people and no problem,
a large number of less polluting people and a bearable problem or a very large
number of people who hardly pollute at all - and one hell of a problem. It
seems that quite unthinkingly, the world has assumed that we must have the
maximum number of people and hence must cut pollution regardless of expense.
There is no specific advantage in jamming as many people as possible on to the
Earth.
If you extrapolate present and physically possible trends, it is clear that
pollution control is at best a temporary solution and we must reach the point
where nature cannot absorb the mere biological effluent from the human
population even if it engages in no activity whatever beyond manual food
production (and, of course, procreation). Well within a century, too, except
that the Hunger Wars of 2014 will put a kink in the graph…
So why don’t we stop wasting resources on a futile temporary solution and
concentrate on reducing not the population rate of increase, but the
population. I’m not necessarily advocating retroactive birth control, but
surely a smaller population (that can allow itself to drive Jaguars without
destroying the Earth) is a better long-term solution than making everybody’s
life boring, colourless and overcrowded?
:3+)
- -Jan
From: brownd@filon.ml.com (Dave Brown - London Dev Xxxxx)
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 09:03:22 +0100
Subject: RE: URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!
I’m sorry, Kimmo, but bringing environmental issues into this debate is just
plain silly. Yes, unleaded is better than leaded petrol. But unleaded petrol is
STILL very environmentally UNfriendly. If you are really concerned about the
environment then give up the internal combustion engine completely!
Every drop of spilled petrol on a garage forecourt contributes more
environmental damage than driving miles in any vehicle. In addition, look at the
amount of polution caused by electricity generators, factories, public
transport… et al. Are a few (getting fewer all the time) classic cars
actually contributing that much to the state of the environment ? I think not.
Now excuse me while I go and decoke my lungs…
David
David Brown, Merrill Lynch
brownd@ml.com
///_/_/_/_/////_///______
/_/_//_/_/_/_/_/____
/_/_/_/_/______/_/_/_/______
/_/_/_/_/_/_/________/_/_____
___/_/_/////_/_/_/_/_/______
/_/___/_/_//_/_/_/____
///_/_/_/____/////_///_________
From: brownd@filon.ml.com (Dave Brown - London Dev Xxxxx)
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 09:03:22 +0100
Subject: RE: URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!
I’m sorry, Kimmo, but bringing environmental issues into this debate is just
plain silly. Yes, unleaded is better than leaded petrol. But unleaded petrol is
STILL very environmentally UNfriendly. If you are really concerned about the
environment then give up the internal combustion engine completely!
Every drop of spilled petrol on a garage forecourt contributes more
environmental damage than driving miles in any vehicle. In addition, look at the
amount of polution caused by electricity generators, factories, public
transport… et al. Are a few (getting fewer all the time) classic cars
actually contributing that much to the state of the environment ? I think not.
Now excuse me while I go and decoke my lungs…
David
David Brown, Merrill Lynch
brownd@ml.com
///_/_/_/_/////_///______
/_/_//_/_/_/_/_/____
/_/_/_/_/______/_/_/_/______
/_/_/_/_/_/_/________/_/_____
___/_/_/////_/_/_/_/_/______
/_/___/_/_//_/_/_/____
///_/_/_/____/////_///_________
From: jagbob@ix.netcom.com (Robert W. Rankin )
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 23:29:04 -0700
Subject: jag historical data?
Hi listees,
A friend owns a 1966 E-Type, and asked me if I knew how to find
out about the history of his car. You know, the original color, sales
record, date of manufacture, etc. Can anyone help me out here? I
suppose I could write to JCNA or Jaguar, but if anyone has an address,
I’d appreciate it. I have done this for some of my old Triumphs and
maybe it is the same. Heritage Trust, or what ever? Thanks.
jagbob@ix.netcom.com
Bob Rankin
Carson City, NV, USA
1949 TR2000 Rdstr
1959 TR-3A
1980 TR-8
1970 E-Type 2+2
1975 XJ6C
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 24 Jul 96 17:33:34
Subject: Re: Kimmo & URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!!
DavidZ333 (one of the New Hampshire Z333s?) :
As for being hypocritical by owning a gas guzzler or an emissions monster,
there is no way for even lots and lots of people to be pure and have any
significant effect on the environment. IMHO either we all agree on the
goal and focus on it sincerly, honestly, and rationally - and accept the cost
- or it’s all over; we’re closing in.
This is of course only peripherally Jag-related, but as this observation
implies, we can have a small number of heavily polluting people and no problem,
a large number of less polluting people and a bearable problem or a very large
number of people who hardly pollute at all - and one hell of a problem. It
seems that quite unthinkingly, the world has assumed that we must have the
maximum number of people and hence must cut pollution regardless of expense.
There is no specific advantage in jamming as many people as possible on to the
Earth.
If you extrapolate present and physically possible trends, it is clear that
pollution control is at best a temporary solution and we must reach the point
where nature cannot absorb the mere biological effluent from the human
population even if it engages in no activity whatever beyond manual food
production (and, of course, procreation). Well within a century, too, except
that the Hunger Wars of 2014 will put a kink in the graph…
So why don’t we stop wasting resources on a futile temporary solution and
concentrate on reducing not the population rate of increase, but the
population. I’m not necessarily advocating retroactive birth control, but
surely a smaller population (that can allow itself to drive Jaguars without
destroying the Earth) is a better long-term solution than making everybody’s
life boring, colourless and overcrowded?
:3+)
- -Jan
From: brownd@filon.ml.com (Dave Brown - London Dev Xxxxx)
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 09:03:22 +0100
Subject: RE: URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!
I’m sorry, Kimmo, but bringing environmental issues into this debate is just
plain silly. Yes, unleaded is better than leaded petrol. But unleaded petrol is
STILL very environmentally UNfriendly. If you are really concerned about the
environment then give up the internal combustion engine completely!
Every drop of spilled petrol on a garage forecourt contributes more
environmental damage than driving miles in any vehicle. In addition, look at the
amount of polution caused by electricity generators, factories, public
transport… et al. Are a few (getting fewer all the time) classic cars
actually contributing that much to the state of the environment ? I think not.
Now excuse me while I go and decoke my lungs…
David
David Brown, Merrill Lynch
brownd@ml.com
///_/_/_/_/////_///______
/_/_//_/_/_/_/_/____
/_/_/_/_/______/_/_/_/______
/_/_/_/_/_/_/________/_/_____
___/_/_/////_/_/_/_/_/______
/_/___/_/_//_/_/_/____
///_/_/_/____/////_///_________
From: jagbob@ix.netcom.com (Robert W. Rankin )
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1996 23:29:04 -0700
Subject: jag historical data?
Hi listees,
A friend owns a 1966 E-Type, and asked me if I knew how to find
out about the history of his car. You know, the original color, sales
record, date of manufacture, etc. Can anyone help me out here? I
suppose I could write to JCNA or Jaguar, but if anyone has an address,
I’d appreciate it. I have done this for some of my old Triumphs and
maybe it is the same. Heritage Trust, or what ever? Thanks.
jagbob@ix.netcom.com
Bob Rankin
Carson City, NV, USA
1949 TR2000 Rdstr
1959 TR-3A
1980 TR-8
1970 E-Type 2+2
1975 XJ6C
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 24 Jul 96 17:33:34
Subject: Re: Kimmo & URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!!
DavidZ333 (one of the New Hampshire Z333s?) :
As for being hypocritical by owning a gas guzzler or an emissions monster,
there is no way for even lots and lots of people to be pure and have any
significant effect on the environment. IMHO either we all agree on the
goal and focus on it sincerly, honestly, and rationally - and accept the cost
- or it’s all over; we’re closing in.
This is of course only peripherally Jag-related, but as this observation
implies, we can have a small number of heavily polluting people and no problem,
a large number of less polluting people and a bearable problem or a very large
number of people who hardly pollute at all - and one hell of a problem. It
seems that quite unthinkingly, the world has assumed that we must have the
maximum number of people and hence must cut pollution regardless of expense.
There is no specific advantage in jamming as many people as possible on to the
Earth.
If you extrapolate present and physically possible trends, it is clear that
pollution control is at best a temporary solution and we must reach the point
where nature cannot absorb the mere biological effluent from the human
population even if it engages in no activity whatever beyond manual food
production (and, of course, procreation). Well within a century, too, except
that the Hunger Wars of 2014 will put a kink in the graph…
So why don’t we stop wasting resources on a futile temporary solution and
concentrate on reducing not the population rate of increase, but the
population. I’m not necessarily advocating retroactive birth control, but
surely a smaller population (that can allow itself to drive Jaguars without
destroying the Earth) is a better long-term solution than making everybody’s
life boring, colourless and overcrowded?
:3+)
- -Jan
From: Alan Akeister 100705.3012@CompuServe.COM
Date: 24 Jul 96 06:42:00 EDT
Subject: Insults?
Hi all,
I thought you would like to see the reply I had from James A. Isabell to the
message I posted to the Jag Lovers list.
Obviously he does not understand what the :~) or 8-} means in a message.
I am sorry if my comments that were supposed to be taken lightheartedly have
fallen on stony ears, but there is no call whatsoever to use language as written
below. (and just in case you do not realise what I mean James, I DO not mean
this lightheartedly)
<<Your information comes from “all over the world” but not from the US which
has been using the stuff solely for years. There is no problem, its imaginary.
You are fond of attacking me on a personal basis, why dont you do your
research instead.
Personal insults are the amunition of fools who dont know the first element
of proper debate, research.
The people you are hearing from have no more clue than you do. Your
newspaper is pure and simple, full of shit.
When they wanted to outlaw leaded here I was worried to, but I had no one to
ask, because we were first. You have the advantage that you could ask or
take advantage of information from your wiser US compatriots. But in
typical English fassion you have the “if it wasnt invented here its no good”
attitude.
Now I will stoop to personal insult to match your idiot remarks about two
papers I never read.
I live in Austin, do you know what that paper is? Noooo? Then try
research. Oops, I forgot, you dont do that. You read newspapers instead.
Most people know that 80 percent of what is printed is bull shit. I have
read your English papers and it applys there as well as in the states. Like
the headline I read in the Salisbury morning paper (BTW, that’s in England
just outside of London) that said, “Heat Wave, Temperature reaches 75
degrees, cattle go crazy, running off a cliff.” Must be those Mad Cow
infected beefs you keep trying to palm off on the rest of the world. We
will trade you some AIDS infected queers for them, how about that?
As to your politics being honorable and clean, you must not read your own
newspapers after all but I do, occasionaly, when I am traveling there.
Cummon, we beat you fair and square in 1776 and you can’t change it by being
an ass hole.
You may respond, but I wont honor it with a reply.
My mother taught me to, “Never argue with a fool.”
Jim
“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil >>
OK James, let’s end it there. Let’s not take up any more of the Jag lovers list
with what is now turning out to be a negative discussion.
I will not reply to any more of your postings, Kindly do not post to me either.
Best regards
Alan Akeister
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #230
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Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 17:14:02 +0200 (MET DST)
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Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #231
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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 24 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 231
Unleaded Petrol Debate
Re: I don’t believe it!
XK150 luggage rack
Leaks…leaks…leaks…those pesky leaks…
Leaks…leaks…leaks…those pesky leaks…
Re: Originality debate
looking for parts
RE: URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!!
Re: URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!!
re: Unleaded gasoline in older cars
1987 XJ-6 Starter, Front Suspension, and Radio…
RE: I don’t believe it
Re: Leaks…leaks…leaks…those pesky leaks…
Replying to the Digest
Re: SYMBOLS
More thoughts on unleaded
From: brownd@filon.ml.com (Dave Brown - London Dev Xxxxx)
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 13:34:53 +0100
Subject: Unleaded Petrol Debate
Hi all,
I’ve been following this thread with considerable interest as I do live in the
UK, and own a mid-sixties Daimler 250. However, I think that is has really gone
far enough now. I fully appreciate that our American cousins have had this
“problem” for 15 years or so, but it has to be said that there IS still some
confusion over the actual facts.
I am sure, like everything else, there is no real black and white answer, and
even the grey will vary from model to model. And a lot of “research” and “tests”
are probably still based on conjecture and opinions. If someone could come up
with a real scientific basis for research such as: “We took two identical MKII’s
and ran one for 20,000 mile on unleaded and one for 20,000 mile on leaded under
the same conditions and there was/was not a difference, etc” then this would
probably solve the debate (at least for MkII’s!). But as this is practically an
impossibility we will have to rely on the experience, opinions and conjecture of
those who have had this problem for much longer than ourselves.
It might be useful for someone with the relevant knowledge/experience to post a
list of cars that will/might/possibly be affected.
But please, lets not get TOO personal…
Regards,
David
David Brown
'67 Daimler 250 V8 (with dirty CWW’s)
brownd@ml.com
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From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 09:25:28 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: I don’t believe it!
I have a reprint of some factory service bulletins that describes a way
to do it. This is supposed to be ‘confidential’ factory information. I
will e-mail you privately.
John
On Tue, 23 Jul 1996, MarrioSD wrote:
Hi
Last month I bought a 65 ‘S’ type Jag and immediately joined the email group in
the hope of gaining insight and information on the Marque.I asked a question - my boot is shut and locked and I can’t open it, I wanted to
know if anybody could suggest a way of opening it without using a crow bar.I got “1” reply message telling me the key for the glove box and the boot are
the same, I can’t open the glove box either.SOMEBODY MADE A STUPID BLOODY COMMENT ABOUT HIS CAR IS NOT A TOY AND GETS DOZENS
OF REPLIES!!!SOMEBODY ELSE MENTIONS TOOLS AND AGAIN WE THRASH SEARS VS HOME DEPOT VS WALL
MARTS TOOLS TO DEATH!!Am I missing something here, aren’t we supposed to be offering help to other
Jaguar owners.I need some help here guys, how about it.
Regards
Steve.
Livermore, CA
1965 ‘S’ Type Jag
1971 Jensen Interceptor MK II
1974 Triumph TR6
1992 Ford Explorer
1993 Kawasaki Ninza 750
From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@CompuServe.COM
Date: 24 Jul 96 09:30:58 EDT
Subject: XK150 luggage rack
Dear Gordon, I saw your message on Jag Lovers and will add you to our little XK
group (unless you wish otherwise of course). I do not know of any repro luggage
racks available. In fact, I cannot find any photos on a quick look through a
few books, nor is the luggage rack in the XK150 parts book at all as an option
or otherwise (it was however listed for the 120 and 140). But I do have a photo
of one fitted to an XK150 S FHC that is pretty original - it is higher at the
rear of the car than at the front, to clear the boot handle and rear no. plate
light, with 3 horizontal bars and the usual further retaining bar at the very
bottom. I will photocopy the photo and post it to you. It may be that this a
non-original extra - I really do not know! I have also checked the records I
have of XKs and I have noted that the following XK150 FHC chassis had luggage
racks (whether original or not, I do not know): 825127, 825134, 825340. These
are all very late XK150s in Australia. I will circulate this answer to others on
our XK group and see what they can add. Regards, John Elmgreen
From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 06:43:18 -0700
Subject: Leaks…leaks…leaks…those pesky leaks…
Hi,
I need some advice in diagnosing just how bad my tranny leak is…the symptoms:
Right after filling the tranny with fluid to the psecified levels and after
the car sits over a sufficient period of time to cool down, I find a puddle
of tranny fluid (several ounces worth) on the floor right below the back of
the engine bay and slightly off-center on the passanger side. If I don’t
refill the transmission and continue to drive the amount of fluid that is
leaked diminishes pretty rapidly and becomes almost non-noticeable. At this
point the fluid level stabilizes right at the end of the dipstick. I’ve had
the jag dealer take a look at this and they have informed me that the
underside of the transmission is all wet and that I will need to replace
some gasket to the tune of several hundresds of dollars.
My question: since the leak appears to be related to the level of the fluid
in the transmission (could I be misinterpreting this?) is there some other
reason other than a bad gasket that would account for the loss and could be
more easily (read “cheap” here) fixed? Is there a fitting or connection
(perhaps the dipstick tube) that could be loose and needs tightening? Any
help guidance would be highly appreciated. Thanks in advance
Rob W-M, Phoenix, Arizona
85 XJ-S
From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 06:50:49 -0700
Subject: Leaks…leaks…leaks…those pesky leaks…
Hi,
I need some advice in diagnosing just how bad my tranny leak is…the symptoms:
Right after filling the tranny with fluid to the psecified levels and after
the car sits over a sufficient period of time to cool down, I find a puddle
of tranny fluid (several ounces worth) on the floor right below the back of
the engine bay and slightly off-center on the passanger side. If I don’t
refill the transmission and continue to drive the amount of fluid that is
leaked diminishes pretty rapidly and becomes almost non-noticeable. At this
point the fluid level stabilizes right at the end of the dipstick. I’ve had
the jag dealer take a look at this and they have informed me that the
underside of the transmission is all wet and that I will need to replace
some gasket to the tune of several hundresds of dollars.
My question: since the leak appears to be related to the level of the fluid
in the transmission (could I be misinterpreting this?) is there some other
reason other than a bad gasket that would account for the loss and could be
more easily (read “cheap” here) fixed? Is there a fitting or connection
(perhaps the dipstick tube) that could be loose and needs tightening? Any
help guidance would be highly appreciated. Thanks in advance
Rob W-M, Phoenix, Arizona
85 XJ-S
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 09:55:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Originality debate
On Jul 24, 1:02pm, Jan Wikstroem wrote:
It boils down to what you keep a car for. If you’re into the preservation for
posterity thing, that’s what you do.
Jan, the posterity thing was intended to be a little humor, OK, maybe a very
little humor. I’m really not so noble as to worry about our posterity. I’m more
worryed about getting an S1 XJ6 w/ out a V-8 - when I can afford it(which may
be a while).
so lets
drop the righteousness act.
Didn’t intend to come across that way - having committed some Jaguar
atrocities of my own.
Mark McChesney
Could you see the Mercedes, Porsche or BMW lists even mentioning a conversion?
From: P & B Springer springer@oz.sunflower.org
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 09:11:25 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: looking for parts
Hello,
I just found out about this list b/c I recently found a somewhat
delapidated 1970 XKE 2+2 to fix up. Since I anticipate needing a lot
of body parts over the next couple of years, I’d like to know if anyone
out there knows a good source for used parts in the US, preferably in the
Midwest.
TIA,
Bill
springer@oz.sunflower.org
From: ifinlay@vossnet.co.uk (Ian Finlay)
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 15:07:12 +0100
Subject: RE: URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!!
On Jul 23, 1996 12:38:26, ‘JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)’ wrote:
I disagree with you in your generalisation. From memory (YMMV):
A classic car mag over here (UK) ran a test with a mid-60s Austin land
crab.
After a few K miles on unleaded the valve seats had receeded such that
the head was basically scrap. This was an iron head car, as are all of
mineI will bet they never tore down the engine first. The dammage was already
there.
Wrong.
You disagree from a very precarious position. You don’t use the stuff
over
there and here in the US it has been mandated for 15 years. We have first
hand knowledge, not speculation by a magazine.
Wrong. We have both unleaded and “super” (higher octane) unleaded. All
new cars run unleaded, and many older ones.
Here in the US I have been running a 1970 VW (and you know those are not
quality engines) and a 1974 Bricklin, also a cast iron head with no
problewms for 15 years on unleaded.
The VW, as you say, is not a highly tuned engine as standard. From what
I’ve
read, low tuned engines suffer less, especially if not driven hard. I don’t
know
how you drive of course. Anyway, I didn’t say YOUR engine was going to
suffer,
just that to generalise on such as thing may be misleading.
Its all scare tactics. As stated by several people on the list. Only
stationary engines that run continously at high load have a problem with
unleaded.
If I cruise at 90+ MPH (in Germany, of course) for a few hours, stopping
for short periods for gas and coffee, does it matter whether it’s a
stationary
engine or not? I would have thought that this would represent a continuous
high load.
When the unleaded is mandated you will suddenly hear horror stories of
engines failing due to the gas. The truth is the engines were old and
about
to fail long before they used the gas. When they fail the owners blame
the
gas.
Wow - that’s like saying that “well, smoking doesn’t cause lung cancer
because old people die anyway and that were probably sick way before
we found out that smoking was a killer”. I think you’re pushing the bounds
of crystal-ball-gazing.
Its pure bull shit and I would think that the rest of the world could see
that after 15 years here in the states wher leaded gas is not available
(actualy illegal), cars are not failing. Here in the Southwest US cars
last
longer than in Europe because they dont rust out as fast. It is not
unusual
to see 30 year old cars running around with obviously little maintenance.
I
am not talking about collectors cars, I am talking about junkers that are
still used for transportation. If there was a problem with unleaded it
would have shown up, and it hasnt. Those old junkers continue to putter
along.
How do you know how the engines are maintained? I have a '56 British
Ford which looks like hell, but the engine’s been very well looked after.
As I said before, my truck (1956 remember) ran “just fine” with a basically
damaged engine.
I run a 1972 Ford Cortina engine in my Formula Ford race car. It runs at
7000 rpm for 15 to 20 laps of the track. No problems! At least not with
the head… #8-)
How many hours has it done between valve jobs? What type valve seats?
There may be a problem with the plastic fittings in carbruetors if
unleaded
with alcohol additives is used. This has been shown in Arizona USA where
they mandate alcohol in the summer to reduce polution, but that is a
separate and easly fixable problem. A few replacement parts in the carb
fixes this. But and I repeat, there are no major problems traceable to
unleaded in a car engine. And there are 15 (Fifteen) years of experience
to
back this statement up.
There is an equal amount of experience to show that there are problems.
If you (and presumably, the relevant authorities) are so convinced how
about
giving classic owners free mechanical warranties (after an inspection, of
course)?
Ian
Jim
===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: ifinlay@vossnet.co.uk (Ian Finlay)
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 15:07:22 +0100
Subject: Re: URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!!
On Jul 24, 1996 01:00:46, ‘kimmo kimmo@kimmo.demon.co.uk’ wrote:
> >I just can't understand that in 1996 you still have people who don't >understand the environmental problems we are facing. I'm originally from >Scandinavia where the awareness of environmental problems is very high, >even when there's still plenty of "clean" environment to "waste".Just my 2p worth - I’ worried about the environment too, I just get really
fed up with the focus on cars, and leaded petrol especially, when problems
like acid rain from power stations, methane from increased cattle
“production”,
and the lack of recycling are, IMHO, more serious.
As hopefully everyone knows cars are still one of the biggest cause for
environmental problems …
Data please … Anyway, from what I recall (and hopefully someone can
confirm) more pollution is produced during a car’s manufacture and
scrapping
than during it’s life. Not sure of the figures here though.
… so any measures for reducing exhaust emissions
should be concern of us all. It’s so ignorant to just worry about ones
classic car without seeing the big picture. I hope Alan doesn’t have kids,
as they would be in the end paying for the Alan’s classic car…
This is a jag list. That means some (a lot) of the people here are classic
car
types. Hence the conversation. Alan (or anyone else) didn’t say they/we
didn’t worry about pollution in general, but that wasn’t the point.
I’m a great fan of Jags and 50’s-70’s American cars, but it’s still a
HOBBY
for me, it’s not the most important thing in my life. If it is for
somebody, that’s sad…
Why? Would we have had the Schlumph collection, or the recent find of
a barn full of Stutz’s? It’s not the MOST important thing in my life
either,
but it’s important none the less.
Of course one could ask who am I to moralize others as I’m driving an
unenvironmental Jaguar…
At least you’re keeping it on the road, rather than being un-environmental
and buying a new car B-)
… It’s a contradiction I gladly admit, but as a film
maker who has made several environmental films I explain to myself that
I’m
allowed to have this one vice. Also I’ve been able to go from V8 down to
straight 6, that’s an improvement, isn’t it?
Er, not necessarily. Is this a joke?
Why oh Why did we join these idiots in Brussels?
Alan, my dear honourable friend, to be frank, if you don’t know why
reducing exhaust emissions is important I’m sure you don’t understand why
UK is a member in EU. It’s an even more complicated issue and it’s not
Jaguar related…
Let’s just have a huge beaurocracy and make sure that the pollution they
generate is compensated for by giving classic owners a hard time. The EEC
was a good idea, the EU sucks. Now there’s a well crafted political
argument!
Kimmo
“Sorry again, but this annoyed me greatly”…
<Alan’s post cut for b/w reasons>
From: “Richard King” kingr@sabc.co.za
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 16:23:59 +0200
Subject: re: Unleaded gasoline in older cars
I notice most of the debate on this subject revolves around valve
wear.
Stories going around in this part of the world speak of the use, in
unleaded, of aromatics for anti-knock purposes - Toluene, benzene, and one other?
-
- that, it is claimed, can cause problems with fuel-lines, gaskets and
carb. parts on older (unspecified) vehicles?
- that, it is claimed, can cause problems with fuel-lines, gaskets and
Richard King
Johannesburg
From: justinb@Okway.okstate.edu (Justin Beightol)
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 09:28:16 -0500
Subject: 1987 XJ-6 Starter, Front Suspension, and Radio…
First:
What kind (make) of starter is on the Jaguar 4.2L engine (in a 1987
XJ6)? It seems to me that the solenoid or spring is losing it's
strength and doesn't always engage the flywheel.
Second:
(background) I have a loose "slam"plate above the catalytic (spelling)
converter(left hand side of the car) and a loose metal brake line
going down the right hand side of the car.
(opinion) Everytime I hit a bump driving the car it sounds like two
metal pieces hitting together along with the combined noise of what
sounds to be a "dead" shock. What else could be making these sounds?
I will be glad to give more detail if necessary (I just don't want to
add extraneous stuff). Again, this is on a 1987 XJ6.
Third:
I have installed a Pioneer 12 disc cd-changer in the automobile, and
have the changer installed under the passenger seat, and the
controller mounted in the ashtray to the left of the transmission
lever (Is there a technical name?). It works out pretty neat and I am
thinking of motorizing the ashtray to close when the car is off, and
open when the car is turned on. I still have the stock Jaguar
AM/FM/Tape head unit. I would be interested in what others have done
to their Jaguar's.
Justin Beightol
1987 Jaguar XJ-6
From: brownd@filon.ml.com (Dave Brown - London Dev Xxxxx)
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 15:29:42 +0100
Subject: RE: I don’t believe it
Steve,
I’m fairly sure that you should have two keys, one for doors and ignition and
one for glove compartment and boot. If you’re missing the glove compartmrnt/boot
key then it might be easier to break into the glove compartment in order to find
the lock number to get a new key made. Not all that helpful, but might be better
than taking a crowbar to the boot!
Good luck,
David
David Brown, Merrill Lynch
brownd@ml.com
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From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 16:41:49 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: Leaks…leaks…leaks…those pesky leaks…
My question: since the leak appears to be related to the level of the fluid
in the transmission (could I be misinterpreting this?) is there some other
reason other than a bad gasket that would account for the loss and could be
more easily (read “cheap” here) fixed? Is there a fitting or connection
(perhaps the dipstick tube) that could be loose and needs tightening? Any
help guidance would be highly appreciated. Thanks in advance
Rob,
I think leaking at the dipstick is a very common problem. I think I also
have this problem and just ordered the O-ring. I think price was # 0.68.
As far as I know it is also common practice to drain some of the ATF
by simply removing the dipstick since the pan has no drain plug when
changing oil/filter.
Matthias (with a now hosed A/C clutch @&&*@)
From: LLoyd 3030P@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 96 07:47:12 PDT
Subject: Replying to the Digest
When replying to the digest, on my system I can overwrite the subject line.
Give that a try, then if it works, we are in business…
LLoyd
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 11:13:37 -0400
Subject: Re: SYMBOLS
On Jul 24, 6:42am, Alan Akeister wrote:
Obviously he does not understand what the :~) or 8-} means in a message.
I want to stay out of this, but what does :~) or 8- mean?
Is :~) laughing?
From: alindsay@winnie.fit.edu (ALEX H. LINDSAY)
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 11:21:31 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: More thoughts on unleaded
Thought I would contribute my own 2 cents worth (or insert own
monetary conversion factor here) on this unleaded topic. I have some
personal as well as professional observations to make.
I think I would tend to agree that the unleaded problem is not as
great as is generally made out. Even well before unleaded became mandatory
here in the US, Amoco (or American Oil) sold an unleaded fuel as their
premium grade. I used this fuel exclusively in my '63 E-type as well as a
1958 Century speedboat that had a 272 V-8 in it (someone else mentioned this
engine in their old Ford pickup). Both of these engines were designed well
before the advent of unleaded. I still have both and never have seen any
evidence of valve seat recession due to using unleaded. The only valve seat
problems I have had was when I rebuilt my E-type engine. Since I had it
apart and it had a lot of miles on it, I thought I would take the head to be
professionaly rebuilt. After spending an exorbitant amount of money (for the
time)on the head, I mistakenly assumed they had at least set the valve
clearances. Wrong! The had ground the valve seats but not adjusted the
clearances. Consequently, the valves were tight and eventually burned the
seats slightly. Was able to fix by grinding seats again.
These are of course, personal observations, your actual experiences
may vary.
From an ex-professional standpoint, I was a mechanic/service manager
for many years in the boat business and so had the oppurtunity to observe a
large number of engine problems. You wouldn’t believe the engine problems I
have seen.
Valve seat recession can be a problem even with engines designed for
unleaded. The problem arises, as someone else mentioned, in heavily loaded
engines. Boat engines run at a considerably higher load than automobile
engines. In the interest of economy, both in purchasing and fuel
consumption, I have seen people buy rather large boats with the smallest
available engine. Consequently, wether they mean to or not, they end up
running the poor thing wide open all the time (so much for economy - I try
to tell them, but do they listen? – Nooooo!). As a result, I have seen
complete valve seat recession, face of valve completely sunk into head, in
less than 100 hours of operation. This doesn’t just apply to small engines
in large boats, it also applies to large engines in even larger boats. I
have read in professional publications of tests run on large yachts with
large gas engines (454-460-500+ cu. in.) that experienced valve seat
recession in less than 50 hrs. of operation.
Again, the key here is load. Marine/industrial engines spend a large
part of their operating time near or at their maximum load capability,
automobile engines rarely reach this operating level. You may have several
hundred horsepower available but how often do you use all that power? Hard,
very hard accleration? Only lasts a few seconds. Pulling heavy loads up a
steep grade? That hill ends someplace. Most of the time your engine is
loafing along at a fraction of its output. When cruising, it may only take
50 horsepower to move your car along at a steady 60-70 mph.
If you ever do run into a valve seat recession problem, it is fixable.
The XK engine has valve seat inserts now. If the old seats recede, or in my
case get burned, they can be replaced with new, hardened valve seats that
will better accept unleaded fuel. If you have a cast iron head, the same fix
is available. The engines I mentioned above were GM 4 cylinder engines with
cast iron heads. I sent them to a head shop that cut pockets into the head
and installed valve seat inserts. Put original head back on engine and off
they went. Doesn’t solve the original problem of an underpowered boat but
there isn’t much you can do about that.
The point I am trying to make is that given the use most of us give
their cars, I don’t see the use of unleaded as being much of a problem.
Granted, the seats may not last quite as long as they would have but the
difference should be minimal. You would probably be considering a valve job
by this time anyway. I don’t see catastrophic failures occuring shortly
after the switch to unleaded. How well you keep your engine in tune would
probably have a greater impact than just the fuel switch. Good state of
tune=effeciency=better power output=lower load.
Alex H. Lindsay
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #231
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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 25 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 232
Re: Radar Detectors,
Re: Radar Detectors, Ignition Problems: XKE and General Interest
Re: Radar Detectors,
symbols/abbreviations
RE: The unleaded petrol debate
Tranny leaks
Re: Radar Detectors,
Cruise Control & Wheel Update 83 XJ6 S3
Major Problems with XJS
Re: More thoughts on unleaded
Calm down! + Fuel smells in an XJS
My new Jag and LeadedFuel (not log)
Re: Radar Detectors,
Re: Insults?
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #228
Re: Major Problems with XJS
“keyless” boot
Re: Unleaded gasoline in older cars
Re: Calm down! + Fuel smells in an XJS
From: “Donald R. Farr” d.farr@phx.cox.com
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 09:05:18 -0700
Subject: Re: Radar Detectors,
You tell an interesting tale, and while I’ve never had that problem with
either of my Jags…I do have an interesting item to bring to the table.
When I drive under some of our streetlights with my 91 Sovereign, they
dim and go out. It is the most baffling thing…to be driving along and
have the streetlight go dark as you drive under it. I’ve even gone back
around the block…found that the light is back on…and had it go out
again. Then there is my neighbors motion detector light for his back
yard…when I drive by in the Jag…it comes on. When I drive the BMW,
Olds or Mercedes past his drive…nothing happens.
Anyone heard of something like this before…any ideas why it may be
happening. The only thought I’ve had suggested, is that one of our
competitors has bugged my car so they can hear my conversations, but I
think it’s far fetched.
Donald R. Farr
(602) 948-7499 - fax
d.farr@phx.cox.com - e-mail
http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/dfarr.htm - Homepage
From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 12:43:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Radar Detectors, Ignition Problems: XKE and General Interest
The question is, did the Jag put out so much static that I was jamming
police radar?
I say probably not. Also, if it is setting off your laser detector
it is a sign of a problem. I had a bad carbon button in my
distributor cap once and it triggered the laser detector
continually. This signal propogates in a spherical pattern
and dissipates rapidly. Pulling the detector back a couple of
feet from the windshield caused the alarm to stop. A properly
running Jag engine will not trigger the laser band. This signal
is a sign of arcing. An arcing relay or switch will also set it off.
Thomas E. Alberts
1987 XJ-S
From: Larry Miller psllarry@gate.net
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 12:48:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Radar Detectors,
Donald R. Farr wrote:
again. Then there is my neighbors motion detector light for his back
yard…when I drive by in the Jag…it comes on. When I drive the BMW,
Olds or Mercedes past his drive…nothing happens.
Happens to my 67E all the time. sometime if I just sneak by while
idleing, I can fool the motion detector, but not usually.
My big chevy van doesn’t set it off but the little jag does…
strange.
Larry Miller
psllarry@gate.net
From: LLoyd 3030P@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 19:03:01 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: symbols/abbreviations
Symbols and abbreviations. To help you understand, and to help
convey the ‘emotion’ of messages, here is a short list of some of the
symbols/abbreviations we use. Use these freely, as often the printed word
is taken much harsher than it is intended.
= smile 
= laughing smile
:-* = kiss = wink
:-X = my lips are sealed 
= blahh [slip of the tongue]
= indifferent = frown
= crying :-o = oh!
0:-) = angel >:-> = devil
:-> = biting sarcastic smile >;-> = devilish wink
:–)> = smiley with a goatee
BTW = By The Way NIFOC = Nude In Front Of The Computer
ROTFL = Roll On The Floor Laughing
LOL = Laughing Out Loud IMHO = In My Humble Opinion
these are the most commonly used; LLoyd
From: Barrie Dawson DAWSONB@btcec3.agw.bt.co.uk
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 96 18:31:05 -0700
Subject: RE: The unleaded petrol debate
1985 Series 3 Jaguar Sovereign 4.2
I have discussed the unleaded issue with Jaguar Cars and several dealers/repairers
here in the UK. The general view is that although the XK engine was designed to run
on 100 octane rated fuel it will run on anything, after all it has been around a
very long time and has survived all sorts of user abuse.
The pseudo unleaded, 98 octane unleaded plus/super-unleaded, fuels are preferable
for those cars NOT fitted with a catalyst. If however a catalyst is fitted an
unleaded fuel will be sufficient but there may be pinking, especially when climbing
hills under heavy load. Rapid acceleration may also cause pinking, but then who
drives a heavy saloon like that.
The lead substitutes are far from worth the money, better to de-tune and run
unleaded gracefully.
As for the older Jaguars/Daimlers they would probably only survive using lead
substitutes or expensive head work.
Barrie Dawson
Chatham, Kent. England
From: RWOODLIN@garfield.foods.indiana.edu
Date: 24 Jul 96 13:02:10 EDT
Subject: Tranny leaks
Rob W-M,
I have had similar problems with a leaking tranny. There are ‘O’ rings
that deteriorate at the end of the dipstick tube and on the modulator.
You will need to disconnect the dipstick tube from the securing mount
on the engine to enable you to lift it out of the tran case. You will
also need to remove the heat shields to ease access. If replacing the
‘O’ rings does not do the trick you will need to regasket the
transmission which presents a wonderfull opportunity to change the
filter screen and renew the fluid! Of course if you end up doing the
gasket thing you need to remove the exhaust system and the rear tranny
mount. You will soon realize why the labor charge is so high and all
the good jag mechanics have small hands!
Robert Woodling
'84 XJ-S
From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 14:04:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Radar Detectors,
again. Then there is my neighbors motion detector light for his back
yard…when I drive by in the Jag…it comes on. When I drive the BMW,
Olds or Mercedes past his drive…nothing happens.
I can see where the Jags would pose bigger more intense infrared
signatures than most vehicles.
Thomas
From: chatmans@ext.missouri.edu
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 96 14:28:24 cdt
Subject: Cruise Control & Wheel Update 83 XJ6 S3
Thanks to everyone who provided help on these two recent queries of
mine. I hope you don't mind me sharing the final outcomes with you as
no one at my house was as excited as they should have been.
First, regarding cruise control. I was the one with the 20 mph
increase who thought that I had a solid state system that could not be
adjusted. After more than one jaglover tried to tell me the same thing
I read in Kirby Palm's book and Thomas Graham's cruise control guide,
I looked again. Doh, of course they are adjustable. The adjusting
screws are just tiny things on the wrong side of black Jolly Roger
sized doodads that I apparently didn't examine closely enough the
first time. After 20 minutes of stop and go on the highway, I got it
to within 2 or 3 mph. I recommend that you use a copilot if possible
to avoid repeated stops on the shoulder. The adjustment is VERY
sensitive.
Second, I replaced the Kent 5 spoke mags with lattice (diamond) wheels
that I found used ($385 for 4 in excellent shape, but if the wife asks
they were $285). I also replaced the 205x70 front and 215x60 back
tires with 215x70's all around. (Go ask the PO why it had different
sized tires.) I decided to go with 215's as the new wheels are 1/2
inch wider and I wanted to fill the wheel well like the 70s do. I'm
happy with the changes. The wheels are a matter of taste but you can
imagine the difference in the height of the rear caused by a change of
60 to 70 aspect ratio at the rear wheel. I was also able to use Kirby
Palm's description of proper dynamic balancing to find and hire
someone who would do it right. His machine wasn't fully adjustable so
proper balance required some trial and error, but the weights are in
two plains and out of sight and covered by aluminum tape. Because the
worker let me help (read watch him like a hawk), I tipped him and we
were both happy with the result. If interested, read Kirby's book for
an explanation -- on wheel balancing not tipping.
Steve Chatman
From: Carl Sewell csewell@spidernet.com.cy
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 22:52:16 ±300
Subject: Major Problems with XJS
Help Help
Have Recently had to Overhaul a Jaguar XJS V12 Engine due to a
Burnt out Piston and Exhaust Valve on Cylinder No 6A.
On Dismantling the Engine We found that the rear Main Bearing shells
were Blue and through to the copper Backing which was flaking off.
The Car had done at this Time only 54000 Miles from New.
The Engine was Reconditioned By fitting New Piston and Valve to Cylinder
No 6A, All New Piston Rings (Bores were Lightly Honed to allow new Rings
to Bed in) All New Bearings (Main and Big End) Were Fitted and the Cylinder
Heads were Overhauled.
On Starting the Engine After Overhauling everthing ran Very Well
Until the Owner of the Car (A Good Friend) Ran the Car up to 140 MPH
for approx 20 Miles. The Car at this time had done around 2000 Miles
from Overhauling of the Engine.
When the Car was stopped after His High Speed Run We noticed
a Very bad oil Leak from the Crankshaft Rear Main Oil Seal.
It Appears that the Rear Main Bearing has Gone Again.
Can Ayone Help with Advise/Reasons why this should have Happened
Again.
All Parts were Checked with A Micrometer (Crankshaft ect) and were found
to be well within Jaguar Recommended wear Limits.
Crankshaft is Standard Size.
Any Help/Advise Would be Much Appriciated as I am Completly Baffled
as to Why this has Happened.
thanks
C Sewell
csewell@spidernet.com.cy
From: fcb@mi.net (Fred Bramston)
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 16:57:59 -0300
Subject: Re: More thoughts on unleaded
A.Lindsay said:
Valve seat recession can be a problem even with engines designed forunleaded. The problem arises, as someone else mentioned, in heavily loaded
engines. -/- Again, the key here is load. Marine/industrial engines spend a
large
part of their operating time near or at their maximum load capability,
automobile engines rarely reach this operating level. You may have several
hundred horsepower available but how often do you use all that power? Hard,
very hard accleration? Only lasts a few seconds. Pulling heavy loads up a
steep grade? That hill ends someplace. Most of the time your engine is
loafing along at a fraction of its output. When cruising, it may only take
50 horsepower to move your car along at a steady 60-70 mph.
-/- If you ever do run into a valve seat recession problem, it is fixable.
The XK engine has valve seat inserts now. If the old seats recede, or in my
case get burned, they can be replaced with new, hardened valve seats that
will better accept unleaded fuel. If you have a cast iron head, the same fix
is available. The engines I mentioned above were GM 4 cylinder engines with
cast iron heads. I sent them to a head shop that cut pockets into the head
and installed valve seat inserts. Put original head back on engine and off
they went. Doesn’t solve the original problem of an underpowered boat but
there isn’t much you can do about that.
The point I am trying to make is that given the use most of us give
their cars, I don’t see the use of unleaded as being much of a problem.
Granted, the seats may not last quite as long as they would have but the
difference should be minimal. You would probably be considering a valve job
by this time anyway. I don’t see catastrophic failures occuring shortly
after the switch to unleaded. How well you keep your engine in tune would
probably have a greater impact than just the fuel switch. Good state of
tune=effeciency=better power output=lower load.Alex H. Lindsay
(abridged by Fred version)
hear hear! Rah Rah! I concur and A.L. said it much better than I did in my
rambling response the last time we covered this topic.-Fred
From: “Martin Robert Fooks, WWIS” mfooks@postiss.netherlands.ncr.com
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 96 16:36:00 PDT
Subject: Calm down! + Fuel smells in an XJS
STOP!!!
If you guys want to get into an England/America war, please be so kind as to
start an new list entitled “The America+Chevrolet/England+Jaguar War List”.
We have some really decent and helpful people on this list and nobody
benefits from the more insulting flames (half of which sound more like “My
dad’s better than your dad!” arguments from a junior school playground).
Martin Fooks
(English ex. patriot)
P.S. I miss that lovely petrol smell inside my Jag since re-tightening all
my fuel hoses on the V12.
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 15:25:10 -0500
Subject: My new Jag and LeadedFuel (not log)
We will start with the plans (my mechanic and I) on Friday. We have a
series 3 Jag with a beautiful body, my wreck, and $3650. The owner of the
jag wants more money than I want to spend, but my mechanic wants the engine
from it and the transmission from it. Now we sit down to play poker! By
Saturday I should have a plan to report on the reserection of the Pheonix.
There is only ONE relavant FACT in this entire disscussion on unleaded fuel:
After 15 years of having ONLY unleaded gasoline to fuel cars in the US,
there is NO EVIDENCE that it hurts the automobile engine in any way . On
any block in the city you will see several 20 year old automobiles and there
is no big industry geared to rebuilding heads. It must not be a factor or
there would be mechanics on every street corner hawking head rebuilds.
Jim
===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"
John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: Steve Patchel spatchel@radford.com
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 13:46:46 -0700
Subject: Re: Radar Detectors,
Don Farr raised and interesting question:
"When I drive under some of our street lights with my 91 Sovereign, they
dim and go out.
Anyone heard of something like this before…any ideas why it may be
happening."
I can only report that I have experienced a similar situation with my 71 MG
and remember a similar thread appearing on the MG list. (Can’t comment on
the 70-E Type as I’m waiting for the registration to clear before I drive
it. California police have no sense of humor regarding driving a car lacking
proper plates.)
Naturally the dimming of street lights was all attributed to the “god of
darkness” setting up some kind of “Lucas-Field Effect”.
Hope this helps
Stephen Patchel
Consulting Practice Leader
Radford Associates
voice: 408-321-2540
fax: 408-321-2650
From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 14:53:28 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Re: Insults?
Alan writes…
{I thought you would like to see the reply I had from James A. Isabell to the
{message I posted to the Jag Lovers list.
[Long private e-mail from Jim Isbell deleted]
{OK James, let’s end it there. Let’s not take up any more of the Jag lovers list
{with what is now turning out to be a negative discussion.
{ I will not reply to any more of your postings, Kindly do not post to me either.
This spirited debate has been quite interesting, showing the confidence
of the participants in their knowledge of the subject. However, some
unacceptable boundaries just got crossed here which need to be
reestablished.
Alan, I need to warn you that you are getting way out of line. You
first posted an alarmist message, then your public reply to Jim’s
measured response was full of baiting and personal insults. Although it
was unnecessarily inflammatory and told us much more about YOU than
anything else, we chalked it up to you being a newbie and didn’t call
you on it.
But, what you did today totally unacceptable. Since it’s obvious that
you are new to the net world, let me give you a couple pointers:
First, posting private e-mail to a public list without the consent of
the original sender is considered a serious breach of netiquette. It’s
the online equivalent to fouling your trousers in a polite social
setting. You’ve made yourself look like an idiot.
Second, we don’t care in the least what Jim wrote to you in a private
e-mail, it’s none of our business. Like I tell my kids all the time,
if you object to something he’s done, work it out with him, not us. If
your style is to go around flinging insults and acting as if you and
your surroundings are the greatest thing ever seen on earth, please
don’t come whining to us when someone lets you know privately that they
disagree with you.
Third, a little humility is good. Once you’ve been around the net for
awhile, you discover that there’s alot of really really smart people
out there and it’s much better to learn from them than to insult them.
It’s best to assume that someone knows what they are talking about
until proven otherwise. If they are full of shit, it soon becomes
obvious. Based on long experience, we know that Jim is in full
command of what he’s talking about. We’re not so sure about you yet.
Don’t get me wrong, you are a valued asset here. You’ve given us some
excellent information in the past and we realize that your concern on
this topic is real. We also know that Jim can be brutally blunt
sometimes.
But remember, we’ve already been through the unleaded experience eons
ago, we’ve seen the Aussie’s go through it and now we are watching you
go through it. In a few years you will be dealing with the same very
strict emissions restrictions which we are seeing here now. We have a
pretty good first-hand idea of what the costs and benefits of these
programs are for the individual car owner and we are more than willing
to share our experience with you if you are willing to listen.
The only thing we ask here is that everyone respect the guidlines
of civil discourse which have served this group so well for so long.
/\ Lawrence Buja http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern
_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
________________Boulder,Colorado___80307-3000
From: “Thos. Carney” carney@vcn.bc.ca
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 07:25:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #228
To Marrio SD re his '65 “keyless” boot. Ok–you asked, but this comes
from ignorance–my thought would be to take the glove box “lid” off, or
its lock only, and take it to a locksmith. If he can fit a key to that,
the same should open the boot? Might be worth a shot.
From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 17:43:14 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Major Problems with XJS
Have Recently had to Overhaul a Jaguar XJS V12 Engine due to a
Burnt out Piston and Exhaust Valve on Cylinder No 6A.
On Dismantling the Engine We found that the rear Main Bearing shells were Blue and through to the copper Backing which was flaking off. The Car had done at this Time only 54000 Miles from New. The Engine was Reconditioned By fitting New Piston and Valve to Cylinder No 6A, All New Piston Rings (Bores were Lightly Honed to allow new Rings to Bed in) All New Bearings (Main and Big End) Were Fitted and the Cylinder Heads were Overhauled. I am not an “expert” but I have had the experience of doing similar work on my own 87 XJ-S. My first impression is that it seems highly unusual to have main bearing problems or a burnt out piston at only 54K miles! These engines are very hearty. Mine had 130K miles and all bearings were still within tolerence and the crank was perfect. Do you know what caused the burnt piston? Was there a MAJOR overheat involved? It could be that whatever condition lead to the first bearing failure has not been corrected and caused this further problem. It would take a severe misalignment to burn up that main bearing in such a short time. I hate to lecture, but driving 140mph for 20 minutes with an engine with only 2000 miles on it seems quite reckless. Not that it could cause a main to fail. One possibility is that the rear main seal was not installed correctly and has burned up. If that seal is not prefitted just right, I understand it can burn up in short order. Especially driving 140mph at only 2000 miles. (You didn’t give the year so I am assuming the rope type seal here.) Thomas E. Alberts From: zavadsky@austin.ibm.com (Vlad Zavadsky) Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 16:51:35 -0500 Subject: “keyless” boot A while ago I lost my door key for an 85 XJ-S. Local Jag dealer said they might be able to help based on the serial number, but they wanted about $60.00 for the service. I took the car to a local locksmith, he found a blank key for the lock ($2.00), came over to my car, and using just a small file he cut a key. All in about 5 minutes, at a cost of $20.00. No power tools, no numbers, nothing … just a small file and five minutes playing with my lock. Vlad From: Shane Gibson shane_gibson@qsp.co.nz Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 09:55:30 -0700 Subject: Re: Unleaded gasoline in older cars Richard King wrote:I notice most of the debate on this subject revolves around valve
wear.Stories going around in this part of the world speak of the use, in
unleaded, of aromatics for anti-knock purposes - Toluene, benzene, and one other?
- that, it is claimed, can cause problems with fuel-lines, gaskets and
carb. parts on older (unspecified) vehicles?Richard King
Johannesburg
The same thing is happening in New Zealand.
The Goverment and the Oil companies decided to remove Leaded petrol from
the market and so far there has been reports of the petrol deteriating
rubber components, causing pinking and the odd engine fire.
Each oil company now has a free telephone number so people can report
problems for them to rectify.
The NZ Classic Car magazine has been doing its nut about all this for the
past two years.
Shane Gibson
Sales Accountant
Quality Software Products
Wellington, New Zealand
From: hdrsons@iamerica.net (Hal Rogers)
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 17:10:28 -0600
Subject: Re: Calm down! + Fuel smells in an XJS
STOP!!!
If you guys want to get into an England/America war, please be so kind as to
start an new list entitled “The America+Chevrolet/England+Jaguar War List”.
We have some really decent and helpful people on this list and nobody
benefits from the more insulting flames (half of which sound more like “My
dad’s better than your dad!” arguments from a junior school playground).Martin Fooks
(English ex. patriot)
Oh yes, I agree entirely…after all I wouldn’t know which side of the war
to take! (My dad is English, Mother Texan.) THIS IS TEARING ME APART!
Regards,
Hal Rogers
Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
Import Auto Specialists
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax
Serving Auto Enthusiasts since 1959
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #232
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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 25 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 233
Re: parts cleaner
XJ40 - too reliable? new project
Unleaded Fuel in Older Cars
Jag historical data
Who Wants My Money?
Lucas Relay standards (general interest)
XKE Series II A/C: Definitive posting update
Mailing vs Brousing
[Non-Jaguar] Pollution and such
Re: parts cleaner
[SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve stop screw/nut
RE: URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!
Re: parts cleaner
Mark X for Sale
Parts Cleaning, Honda CVCC, Air Pollution
RE: Parts Cleaning, Honda CVCC, Air Pollution
[XJS] Converting cabriolet to convertible in UK
Jag History info
From: dlfreeman@ipa.net (Dave & Linda Freeman)
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 16:44:58 -0500
Subject: Re: parts cleaner
Has anyone tried to clean parts using a concentration of Drano (a commercial liquid drain unclogger)? I saw it on TV once and thought I'd give it a try. It could remove paint, grease, grime, and even rust! It looked so much easier than sand blasting. If anyone has tried this please post any tips and the dilution of the drain cleaner. robert abascal '63 OTS & '66 Coupe XKE
I once read a tech article on using drano for cleaning the inside of gas
tanks but I don’t remember the suggested dilution. It seems like it was a
goodly number of cans in a 15 gal. tank. If you do decide to use it
remember it is quite caustic.
Dave and Linda Freeman
Living the Good Life
From: Peter Rebbechi <"REBBECHI PETER"@A1.MEOC02.SNO.mts.dec.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 22:28:00 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: XJ40 - too reliable? new project
IMHO, the XJ40 is too reliable. I am unable to satisfy my
urge to potter around the garage, because it doesn’t break
down.
Because of this, I am about to start a new project. I have
ordered a kit car, a replica Lotus Seven. So, it will
almost be a British car too.
I take delivery in mid September, and will be updating my
web page as it progresses. I will not post progress reports
on this list, as these probably do not belong here.
I have retained the XJ40 as my daily driver. I almost sold
it, but when it came to it, could not do it. I actually had
to tell a guy that I had changed my mind and did not want to
sell it anymore. maybe negative selling works, because he
became more persistent, and the price started going up!
On July 30, I will have had this car for 3 yrs, and 175,000
kms. I have changed jobs, and annual mileage is now down to
about 25,000 km. Current speedo reading is 228,000 km.
I have NO intention of putting alump in it, although a 4L
AJ6 may happen when this one expires in 300,000 km time.
Without adding to the rambling, Almost no-one asks to see
under the bonnet, they just want to sit in the seats, and
touch the wood.
Staying on the list.
Peter Rebbechi
88 XJ40 Sovereign
92 Mitsubishi Starwagon
96 Westfield SEiW
Big mortgage
Too many kids.
From: sfisher@sola.com.au (Scott Fisher)
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 96 18:45 CST
Subject: Unleaded Fuel in Older Cars
Jaguar’s own story is that cars produced after 1967 use a valve seat that is
compatable
with unleaded fuel. Since the XK engine has an aluminium head they all use
valve seats
of some description (so too the V12 which is after 1967 anyway). If you
have a pre-1967
XK then it surely must have been rebuilt by now? If you have had the valve
seats replaced
since then with the genuine jaguar article you will have tough-enough valve
seats.
Pushrod Jaguars having a cast iron head need hardened valve seats added (if
the purists will
allow this sort of butchery
I’ll track down the service bulletin and post the extact thing within a few
days. As
far as I can tell it’s not the lack of lead you should be worrying about its
the octane
rating of the fuel. Knocking can do more damage to your pride and joy in
minutes than
any amount of unleaded. In Australia we have been suffering a sliding
rating for years
100 → 98 and now 96 RON (dont get too excited those of you in the US you
use MON which
has correspondingly lower values for the same fuel).
It’s a contradictory world…Lead is bad for the kiddies development, lead
interferes
with the calalytic converters we want to use to cut out other nasties in the
emissions
the EPA is on our backs about, let’s get rid of it, woops the octane went
down, boost
it up with other nasties, on ho it also makes more pollution in the refining
process
to create high octane unleaded fuel dam! if we can’t get the same octane as
we used to
we will detune the older cars to cope with the reduced lead levels. Result:
Older
cars running less efficiently creating more pollution than if they had the
correct fuel…
at least the lead is gone :-/
Regards Scott.
Scott Fisher [sfisher@sola.com.au] PH: +61 08 329-28341.
_--_|\ N
SOLA / \ W + E
International Holdings Research Center _.–_/ S
Adelaide, South Australia. v
Joy ia a Jaguar XJ6 with a flat battery, a blown oil seal and an
unsympathetic wife, 9km outside of a small remote town, 3:15am on
a cold wet winters morning.
SOLA?- Opthalmic Lens Manufacturer, unless all those transparent disks
we make are part of some secret conspiracy to make transparent disks!
From: DocJagry@aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 20:31:39 -0400
Subject: Jag historical data
To Bob Rankin - re Jaguar Archive Services
Bob:
Jaguar offers the information your friend needs at the following address:
Jaguar Archives, Jaguar Cars Inc.
555 MacArthur Blvd.
Mahwah, NJ 07430
The cost the last time I used the service was $25 for JCNA members and $40
for others. Jaguar requests that you send the numbers from the car’s
identification plate and proof of personal ownership. You’ll receive an
initial letter with the information they have (often including the name and
address of the original owner) followed later by a certificate suitable for
framing.
Jon Schrock
Lancaster, PA, USA
!956 XK140
1965 E Type
1977 XJ12L
From: Tommy loner@peterboro.net
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 21:31:45 -0400
Subject: Who Wants My Money?
Hey All Jag Lovers:
With all the free advice I get from this group I feel I should pay some =
money. Where should I send it?
Seriously though, now that I have everyone's attention, is there a =
trick to removing the wheel bearings in the rear hub of my 1980 XJ6. =
I’ve got the manuals, I’ve removed the wheel, I’ve removed the split pin =
(as in cotter pin), and for the life of me I can’t budge that =
castellated nut!
With the transmission in park, parking brake on tight, I tried to turn =
that castellated nut with all my might! It won’t budge! At one point the =
hub started to turn.
Does it come off counterclockwise? Do I need a special tool? Can I use =
an impact wrench to remove it?
Help!
Tommy
loner@peterboro.net
“Lost in the hills of Cavan”
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 21:34:42 -0400
Subject: Lucas Relay standards (general interest)
I know Lucas relays have standard designations on their posts. For example,
W1 W2 are the armature posts if I am not mistaken. There are also numerical
designations on later, plastic bodied relays. Does anyone know the whole
coding scheme?
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 21:34:39 -0400
Subject: XKE Series II A/C: Definitive posting update
Based on input received, I share the following tips:
-
When installing a brand new compressor, ‘work’ it by hand for a minute or
two before charging, and certainly before running. Do this as follows: With
the ignition key in the off position, grasp the pump wheel firmly (this is
the rear, free turning wheel, not the belt pulley). Rotate this clockwise
(as viewed from the front of the car) at a slow, but deliberate pace. This
allows oil to settle into the crankcase. -
The standard schematic is incorrect. The A/C relay is a 6RA, and should
be wired as follows:W1: white (fuse 7)
W2: Black (ground)
C2: Brown and white (alternator)
C1: Black and Yellow (A/C fan switch, via in-line fuse) -
Never run a ‘dry’ a/c system. It should always be charged to prevent
compressor damage.
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
From: nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu (Nikolai Chitaev)
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 20:48:16 -0600
Subject: Mailing vs Brousing
This message is mainly for Nick`s attention, but opinion of a group will be
grately appreciated.
Nick, when youll have a time, would you take a look at a former Bionet gopher, which has been transformed, about 7-8 month ago. At the beginning of its existance it was the mailing list similar to
ours, and I was a regular subscriber. The main feature of transformation is, that its possible now to access all posted mails "messages" thru intertet brouser (netscape and alike). It seems to me that the way the messages are organised and archived is extremly user- friendly. Another important feature is that you also dont
need to be subscriber to read and to reply to posted messages. It could be
done stright forward thru mailing abilities of brousers. On another hand,
there are still a parallel maling list in it original form for users who
dont have, or otherwise dont want brouse thru internet.
At the end, I found this very useful. If before I had a lot of “junk” mails
coming in (this was the reason I unsubscribed), now I just set my brouser
to the servers address and I could see, search, read, post, and reply only to those messages Im interested in.
What do you think? Uhh! the address is:
http://www.bio.net:80/hypermail/METHDS-REAGNTS/
Nikolai A. Chitaev, PhD.
<<87`XJ6 4.2L, EFI, BRG>>
{nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu}
{http://128.252.119.253}
St.Louis, Missouri, USA
From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 04:35:13 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: [Non-Jaguar] Pollution and such
ifinlay@vossnet.co.uk (Ian Finlay) wrote:
On Jul 24, 1996 01:00:46, ‘kimmo kimmo@kimmo.demon.co.uk’ wrote:
[snip!]Of course one could ask who am I to moralize others as I’m driving an
unenvironmental Jaguar…At least you’re keeping it on the road, rather than being un-environmental
and buying a new car B-)
Now there’s a point…
Currently, the authorities here in Norway are running a campaign to get
old cars off the road for environmental and safety reasons. I’ve always
wondered about that, does it really pollute more to run an old car w/o
catalytic converters, even if it’s badly out of tune, than to use a whole
lot of energy to scrap it and produce a brand new car? How long could you
drive the old car before it would “pay off” to scrap it and produce a new
car?
I’d really like to know the answer to that one…
Gunnar
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar XJ6 4.2 Sovereign
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | Vicki who? What .sig virus?
From: Tom Golodik tgolodik@buttercup.cybernex.net
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 23:01:25 -0400
Subject: Re: parts cleaner
Has anyone tried to clean parts using a concentration of Drano (a commercial liquid drain unclogger)?
Haven’t used Drano but have used a spray-on oven cleaner for a grease
encrusted rear end. After spraying, I let it sit overnight covered by a
tarp. Scraped most of the heavy stuff off easily the next day and then
cleaned the rest with a hose. This was particularly good in tight
areas, crevices and nooks that otherwise wouldn’t ever get really
clean. This requires wearing goggles, rubber gloves and long pants and
long sleeved shirt and an appropriate mask, at a minimum, unless you
have a well developed streak of self-destruction. Try to keep the parts
downwind and watch the overspray. You can’t do this in an area where
children or pets are later going to roam. In order to minimize the
residue, I put about two weeks supply of old newspapers and a wad of old
rags and paper towels underneath to catch the run-off, which I then
loaded into garbage bags.
From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 05:37:56 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: [SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve stop screw/nut
It’s amateur night!
I decided to adjust the idle speed of my 1986 Series III XJ6 4.2 tonight,
and went about the task with more brawn than brains.
I first looked up the procedure in my original Jaguar workshop manual and
all it could tell me was that I should adjust the idle screw on the air
distribution box. Not really knowing what that was I tried adjusting the
screw that looked like the logical choice for idle adjustment. BIG
mistake. It later turned out that I had adjusted the “butterfly valve
stop screw” more or less at random.
I finally found the correct screw after looking in my Haynes manual
(would you believe it, it actually contained something useful!) and
managed to adjust the idle speed.
Now for my question: The workshop manual says that the butterfly valve
stop screw should be adjusted so that there is a clearance of 0.02 inches
between the valve and the housing. What happens if this clearance is
either too small (probably the case now) or too big? I’ll try to fix it
ASAP of course, but I’m really curious as to why this clearance has to be
exactely 0.02 inches. Does it affect the idle fuel/air mixture? Something
else?
One more question: After my mangling tonight I noticed that the
accellerator pedal now sticks slightly in the off/out position. Could
this be caused by my “adjustment” of the butterfly valve stop screw?
Sorry, even one more question: This problem has been around since I
bought the car so it was not brought about by my fiddling tonight. If I
press the accellerator gently from idle the engine sputters and almost
dies for a second or two (cold or hot). What is going on? Is the engine
flooded with gasoline? Something else? How do I find out and how do I
fix it?
Hints, advice or just plain opinions from the collected wisdom of this
list would be much appreciated!
Gunnar
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar XJ6 4.2 Sovereign
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | Vicki who? What .sig virus?
From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 10:38:27 GMT
Subject: RE: URGENT MESSAGE ALL UK OWNERS!
On Wed, 24 Jul 1996, Dave Brown - London Dev Xxxxx wrote:
I’m sorry, Kimmo, but bringing environmental issues into this debate is just
plain silly. Yes, unleaded is better than leaded petrol.
Please also keep in mind that the level of lead required for the valve
seats is approx. 20 times or more lower than the level of lead used for
raising the compression in the merry 60s.
As for motoring and the contributon to pollution - there are other factors
too. In Oslo during the winter (when pollution can be a problem), the
pollution contributed by the burning of wood for heating (“cosy fireplace”
and all that) is approx. the same as from road traffic.
Egil
Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 00:18:19 -0400
Subject: Re: parts cleaner
I always use dishwashing liquid for heavy grease. I apply the liquid
directly to the part, and brush vigorously with a toothbrush or nylon scrub
brush. Then I dip the brush in very hot water, and gradually wash away the
soap. This procedure is surprisingly effective, and totally safe. The
specific product I use is “Dawn”, but I don’t know whether it is available
outside the US.
For light rust, I use a product called ‘Zud’, which is a mix of oxalic acid
and mild abrasives.
For fresh oil stains on the driveway, try applying a layer of cat litter,
and letting it sit for a few days. For old oil stains, learn to love them.
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
From: “Robert C. Paulson” rpaul@west.net
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 22:35:58 -0700
Subject: Mark X for Sale
Greetings,
Yes, you read it correctly, I know of a 1966 Jaguar Mark X for sale.
Mechanically very sound. It is a great daily driver. To my knowledge the car
since importation into the United States has always been in Southern California.
The car is currently in Santa Barbara California. But it can be driven or shipped
anywhere.
This car will round out your Jaguar car collection. It is a nice second or third (or
second AND third) Jaguar car to have. It seats 8 adults or sleeps four. (Have I
dropped enough hints that this is a BIG car?)
Price? Glad you asked. I’m not sure. It is a lot of car for $6000 (US), but the
owner is open to offers.
Feel free to contact me at the above e-mail address or contract the owner, Clark
Volmar, at phone #(voice): (805) 966-3649, FAX: (805) 564-4118.
Sincerely,
Robert Paulson
1966 3.8 S-type
From: “George W. Cohn” gwcohn@azstarnet.com
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 22:45:12 -0700
Subject: Parts Cleaning, Honda CVCC, Air Pollution
I’m replying to three threads at once because the Major’s been stuttering
again and no sense in generating thousands of messages for everyone.
(1) Robert Abascal asked about using Drano or other lye based drain
cleaners to clean parts. This is similar to the alkaline baths that some
commercial stripping companies use. It is covered extensively in Tom
Brownwell’s book “Restoring Collector Cars”, Motorbooks International
ISBN 0-87938-174-4. Basically you mix about 13 ounces of Drano or lye
with two gallons of water and soak your parts. It will damage
non-ferrous metals like aluminum so don’t soak your carburetors!
Tri-Sodium-Phosphate will also work. Same warnings.
(2) Phil Bates commented about the Honda CVCC engine being so efficient
but couldn’t remember what CVCC stood for. As I recall, it means
Controlled Vortex Combustion Chamber. If I’m not mistaken, this is where
the Civic model comes from.
(3) Ian Finlay or Jim Isbell, I can’t remember which, made a comment
about the gas companies putting alcohol in the gasoline in the summer in
Arizona USA to reduce emmisions. Sorry guys, that’s in the winter. I
live in Arizona and from September to March they supply that stuff and
you can’t believe how foul it makes some cars smell! It may reduce
Carbon Monoxide but for some reason it would do a skunk proud! As an
interesting side note, There is a product available at most of the local
auto parts stores called “Smog Chek” (spelling) at $8 US that is supposed
to garantee that your car will pass the state mandated emmissions tests
if you run 8 ounces of this stuff in your gas tank. On close reading of
the label, it seems to be the same alcohol additive we get at no extra
charge in the winter!
From: “Richard Atherton (Entex)” a-richat@microsoft.com
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 23:35:47 -0700
Subject: RE: Parts Cleaning, Honda CVCC, Air Pollution
CVCC stands for Compound Vortex Controlled Combustion. In essence it
involved a dual chambered head with one small chamber adjacent to the
rest of the chamber. This small chamber had a second intake valve
(quite small) that would draw in a small fairly rich and easily ignited
charge. The spark plug was also in this small chamber. The main
chamber would draw in a VERY lean and VERY difficult to ignite mixture.
When the plug fired, it would quickly ignite the rich mixture. The
burning and expanding gasses would then easily ignite the very lean
mixture in the main chamber. The carbs were a bear to work on though. A
Very tough engine, and a basic design that I believe Honda still uses.
Not sure though, I have been out of Hondas for some time.
Rich
From: George W. Cohn[SMTP:gwcohn@azstarnet.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 1996 10:45 PM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Parts Cleaning, Honda CVCC, Air PollutionI’m replying to three threads at once because the Major’s been stuttering
again and no sense in generating thousands of messages for everyone.(1) Robert Abascal asked about using Drano or other lye based drain
cleaners to clean parts. This is similar to the alkaline baths that some
commercial stripping companies use. It is covered extensively in Tom
Brownwell’s book “Restoring Collector Cars”, Motorbooks International
ISBN 0-87938-174-4. Basically you mix about 13 ounces of Drano or lye
with two gallons of water and soak your parts. It will damage
non-ferrous metals like aluminum so don’t soak your carburetors!
Tri-Sodium-Phosphate will also work. Same warnings.(2) Phil Bates commented about the Honda CVCC engine being so efficient
but couldn’t remember what CVCC stood for. As I recall, it means
Controlled Vortex Combustion Chamber. If I’m not mistaken, this is where
the Civic model comes from.(3) Ian Finlay or Jim Isbell, I can’t remember which, made a comment
about the gas companies putting alcohol in the gasoline in the summer in
Arizona USA to reduce emmisions. Sorry guys, that’s in the winter. I
live in Arizona and from September to March they supply that stuff and
you can’t believe how foul it makes some cars smell! It may reduce
Carbon Monoxide but for some reason it would do a skunk proud! As an
interesting side note, There is a product available at most of the local
auto parts stores called “Smog Chek” (spelling) at $8 US that is supposed
to garantee that your car will pass the state mandated emmissions tests
if you run 8 ounces of this stuff in your gas tank. On close reading of
the label, it seems to be the same alcohol additive we get at no extra
charge in the winter!
From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 08:53:36 +0200
Subject: [XJS] Converting cabriolet to convertible in UK
Question here for the guys in the UK:
Does anyone know of any reputable companies in the business of
converting XJ-S cabriolets to full convertibles? Paul Banham
used to do this, but has now stopped doing conversions to
concentrate on producing replacement woodwork.
Also, with regards to chassis strengthening: How is the
strengthening of the cabriolet compared to the coupe and
the full convertible? Does it use the same as the convertible?
Reason for asking, a friend in the club here is looking to
import an XJ-S to Norway and a converted cabriolet is the
only option cost-wise, since the later convertibles would be
quite horrific to bring in duty-wise.
Thanks for any help.
Nick
Nick Johannessen // nick@sn.no // http://www.sn.no/~nick/
Adminstrator of the JagWeb and the Jag-lovers mailing-list
Check out the North Cape Challenge 1996 http://www.sn.no/~moydalus/
From: jagbob@ix.netcom.com (Robert W. Rankin )
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 00:47:02 -0700
Subject: Jag History info
Hey,
Thanks to all who responded with info on The Heritage Trust. I will
relay to my friend with the E-Type.
By the way, we used to have a member in the Reno Jaguar Club who
put a Hi-performance Chevy engine in his '67 E-Type OTS. He used to
call it a “Drag-Jag”, but everyone else called it a “Fag-Jag”. Ha Ha.
jagbob@ix.netcom.com
Bob Rankin
Carson City, Nev, USA
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #233
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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 25 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 234
SS exhausts
Re: [XJS] Converting cabriolet to convertible in UK
I’m back
Re: Lucas Relay standards
Re: Lucas Relay standards
Re: Lucas Relay standards
Re: Radar Detectors,
XJ-S FUEL INJECTOR NOISE
Re: Boot lock S-type
Jag Value
Re: [XJS] Converting cabriolet to convertible in UK
Jag-Lovers assistance
Re: Calm down! + Fuel smells in an XJS
RE: Lights going out
MkII/Daimler scuttle vent
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #232
Jag historical data
Re: XK120
Emissions testing in Minnesota, usa; ABS Failure light: '88 XJ40
NOS Locators—Windshield Concern
Re: Major Problems with XJS
From: “Dawson, Barrie” dawsonb@btcec3.agw.bt.co.uk
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 96 09:41:00 GMT
Subject: SS exhausts
I have recently had an original equipment exhaust fitted to my 1985 series
III 4.2 Sovereign, which mixes Stainless and mild steel parts. The only
stainless parts are the front 2 boxes, over axle pipes and tail pipe trims
(non-catalyst system). I believe the catalysts are also stainless steel
where fitted.
When first fitted there was a slight increase in exhaust noise but that
seems to be normal for any new exhaust system.
As to value for money at least the original parts come with 3 year warranty
on the stainless parts.
Barrie Dawson
Chatham, Kent, England
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 11:06:13 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: [XJS] Converting cabriolet to convertible in UK
Does anyone know of any reputable companies in the business of
converting XJ-S cabriolets to full convertibles? Paul Banham
used to do this, but has now stopped doing conversions to
concentrate on producing replacement woodwork.
Nick,
I’m in France, but I reply anyhow :-). I think Arden in Germany
does XJ-S bodystyling mods including conversions.
I can find out the address if you want to.
-
- Matthias
From: Gunnar Forsgren gunnar@medial.se
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 11:11:41 +0200
Subject: I’m back
Hi, after several months of too much work I am finally
prepared to handle the list traffic again.
I am sure I have been missing a lot.
I will try to recap from the digests.
I noticed the story in Jaguar World, great job.
The XJ is still in storage awaiting financial stability.
Another car of german brand got higher priority this summer,
see picture below. The XJ will be subject
to continued bodywork the coming winter.
Gunnar Forsgren gunnar@medial.se
MEDIAL Maskin & Data +46 8 570 25056 (phone/fax/answer)
S-139 50 V�rmd�, SWEDEN http://www.medial.se/opel
XJ6 4.2 S1 '72 http://www.medial.se/opel/cars.jpg
From: ejt@wg.icl.co.uk (Ted Trim)
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 96 11:03:33 BST
Subject: Re: Lucas Relay standards
Mike Franks asks about Lucas relays;
I know Lucas relays have standard designations on their posts.
Does anyone know the whole coding scheme?
Sorry Mike, I don’t know and I’m still hoping for an answer to my query:
What is the difference between a 6RA and a 22RA?
Everyone’s too busy arguing about fuel, lumps and airconditioning. It’s
got to the point where I would support a list split for older jags. Or
a sub-list for “compact saloons” like the xk group.
If anyone is interested I could post my fix for my seized scuttle vent.
Cheers,
Ted ejt@wg.icl.co.uk
1966 3.4 Mk2
PS I’ve just seen what a good job John Elmgreen did for his Jaguar World
article - good one John.
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 13:10:34 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: Lucas Relay standards
I know Lucas relays have standard designations on their posts.
Does anyone know the whole coding scheme?Sorry Mike, I don’t know and I’m still hoping for an answer to my query:
What is the difference between a 6RA and a 22RA?
Did you try Lucas’s service departement ? They should have documentation
available. I have the phone number at home if you want. It’s also
in Kirby’s book
-
- Matthias
From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 13:42 +0200
Subject: Re: Lucas Relay standards
Everyone’s too busy arguing about fuel, lumps and airconditioning. It’s
got to the point where I would support a list split for older jags. Or
a sub-list for “compact saloons” like the xk group.
Agreed!If anyone is interested I could post my fix for my seized scuttle vent.
Yes, I am.
Frans.
Cheers,
Ted ejt@wg.icl.co.uk
From: fcb@mi.net (Fred Bramston)
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 08:44:31 -0300
Subject: Re: Radar Detectors,
When I drive under some of our streetlights with my 91 Sovereign, they
dim and go out.
Then there is my neighbors motion detector light for his back
yard…when I drive by in the Jag…it comes on. When I drive the BMW,
Olds or Mercedes past his drive…nothing happens.–
Donald R. Farr
(602) 948-7499 - fax
d.farr@phx.cox.com - e-mail
http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/dfarr.htm - Homepage
It’s just a “natural” show of respect.!!! -Fred
From: “Connie Vloutely” connie_vloutely@macmail.git.gulfaero.com
Date: 25 Jul 1996 08:03:58 -0500
Subject: XJ-S FUEL INJECTOR NOISE
HI to the net,
I have a 1990 XJ-S with 28,000 mile on it. Except for one engine oil leak,
source unknown, a coolant leak from the heater control valve and a clicking
sound (sounds like valve tappet noise) this car is in mint condition. Engine
had noise since I bought 3000 mile ago. Didn’t bother me then.
Now for my question. The clicking sound is in the front right of the engine.
The engine idle is smooth and car runs well at speed. I can make the noise go
away by removing the connector from the fuel injector for cylinder number 1A
(#1 right side).
When I do this the engine develops a miss (expected) and all you hear is the
light clicking sounds of the other fuel injectors. Just like a well oiled
sewing machine.
Is the clicking just a noisy fuel injector. If fuel injector is noisy, can I
expect to fail soon !!! I want to take a long trip and do not want to get
caught short.
Any comment on what noise may will be appreciated.
Thanks for your help.
Connie Vloutely
Savannah, Ga
From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 14:06:54 -0700
Subject: Re: Boot lock S-type
Hi guys,
I thought “I don’t believe it” wasn’t a good subject for a shut boot and glove
comp.
Steve, I know very litle about S-types, but if the key to my XJ-SI vanished, I’d
try to get to the lock mechanism from the inside. Either by cutting out the
circular holes behind the back seat, or through the loudspeaker holes on the
“hat-shelf”. If there aren’t any holes in your S-type, I would consider making
one (or two). Maybe this’ll yield a few ideas…
Picking the lock would of course be the most human thing to do. Don’t you have
any friends in low places?
And, I agree that this list has taken a bad turn, away from the constructive,
advisory forum I thought it would be. Too many members indulge in discussions
with rather limited interest for others!!
Good luck.
Baard
______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no
From: Keith Elliott kelliott@intranet.ca
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 08:28:49 -0400
Subject: Jag Value
Hello everyone…
First off I am not a Jag owner although I own a couple of old Land
Rovers with Lucas electrics of course so I am not a total outsider when it
comes to british autos What I am writing about though is, a friend of
mine has a 1954 Jag MKVII and I was wondering what would be the approx.
value for such a beast. The engine and gearbox are in tip top shape,
actually they are remarkable. The car needs brake and fuel pump work plus
new tires to be road worthy and safetyable, but that is it. The body looks
very nice from a distance of about 20 feet but as you get closer the many
shoddy body jobs really stand out. There are no holes or rust showing on the
outer body but there is a lot of bondo there. The interior is in fair
restorable condition except for the front seat which is badly cracked and
split. After putting a battery, toyota fuel pump, and priming the carbs the
auto started and purred like a kitten after not being started for about 7
years. He has been asking for around $4000,00 Canadian for it but has even
had trouble getting people to look at it for that price! I don’t think that
that is an unreasonable price for this car, actually I think that it is
probably way cheap! Neither of us knows what it is really worth so here I
sit asking the experts :). Any comments and opinions you could give me would
be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Keith
From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 08:46:34 -0400
Subject: Re: [XJS] Converting cabriolet to convertible in UK
In a message dated 96-07-25 03:19:16 EDT, nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
writes:
Also, with regards to chassis strengthening: How is the
strengthening of the cabriolet compared to the coupe and
the full convertible? Does it use the same as the convertible?
Nick, here’s whatI know about chassis strengthening: The Cabriolets came
stock with a rear chassis stiffener. This ia a ladder type device made out
of square tubing (sort of home made looking) which connects the frame rails
under the front seat area to the bottom of the trunk. The frame passes under
the rear suspension cage with a bit of clearance.
Here in the US I think some full convertible conversions were made from
Cabriolets because they came with this stiffener and are therefore better
candidates.
For a couple of years there were factory authorized conversions of the XJS
done by Hess & Eisenhart. These were sold through Jaguar dealers. These
were born either as cabriolets or hardtops and to my knowledge the stiffening
was done by modifying the structure behind the front seats around the fuel
tanks. These models had no X brace stiffeners under the front or rear end
(but would greatly benefit from them).
The later factory produced convertibles have X braces under both the front
and rear end. I have examined these and they look quite simple and light
weight. It appears that they would not be too difficult to fabricate. They
are made of small diameter tubing and I think they only act in tension. From
everything I have heard the new models are very stiff. There is a reference
in Kirby’s book about a British source for the front X brace.
Julian Mullaney 1987 XJS Hess & Eisenhart Convertible
From: “Martin Robert Fooks, WWIS” mfooks@postiss.netherlands.ncr.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 96 14:25:00 PDT
Subject: Jag-Lovers assistance
Hi all,
You may remember a couple of weeks ago that Gunnar got into mechanical
problems with his Jag whilst on a trip to Holland.
Initially we decided to create a list of Jag-Lovers who may be able to offer
assistance, which could be downloaded through the Net, but after talking to
Nick Johannessen today on this matter we have decided that this is
information that should not be available directly from a Web-Page, but that
people who want it should be able to request that it is sent to them via
E-Mail.
I am still trying to compile a list of people (thanks to Frans Hoekemijer,
Nick and Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR) who may be of assistance, or indeed just be
willing to show a fellow Jag-Lover around their part of the world.
Martin Fooks
Home: +31 (0)20 41 91 731
Work: +31 (0)20 651 2698
E-Mail: Martin.Fooks@Netherlands.NCR.COM / Martin_Fooks@MSN.COM
URL: HTTP:\www.cris.com~mrfooks
Postal Address : Venetihof 94, 1019NB Amsterdam, Netherlands
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 08:51:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Calm down! + Fuel smells in an XJS
On Jul 24, 5:10pm, Hal Rogers wrote:
Subject: Re: Calm down! + Fuel smells in an XJS
STOP!!!
Oh yes, I agree entirely…after all I wouldn’t know which side of the war
to take! (My dad is English, Mother Texan.) THIS IS TEARING ME APART!
Ah, my dad is a New Yorker, my mother is English. Hey, maybe we could get a
North vs. South fight started? Texas vs. New York! What part of England is your
father from? I’m sure we could get something going over that too!
Mark McChesney
From: brownd@filon.ml.com (Dave Brown - London Dev Xxxxx)
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 14:02:45 +0100
Subject: RE: Lights going out
When I drive under some of our streetlights with my 91 Sovereign, they
dim and go out.–
Donald R. Farr
Are you sure it’s not just the car roof blocking out the light?:-)))))
David Brown, Merrill Lynch
brownd@ml.com
///_/_/_/_/////_///______
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/_/_/_/_/______/_/_/_/______
/_/_/_/_/_/_/________/_/_____
___/_/_/////_/_/_/_/_/______
/_/___/_/_//_/_/_/____
///_/_/_/____/////_///_________
From: brownd@filon.ml.com (Dave Brown - London Dev Xxxxx)
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 14:09:48 +0100
Subject: MkII/Daimler scuttle vent
I have a problem with my scuttle vent (at least I think that’s what you call the
vent on the bonnet just in front of the windscreen). Unlike Franz/Ted’s problem,
mine won’t close. I’ve looked at the lever mechanism behind the instrument panel
and the lever (the one that you move inside the car) won’t attach to the lever
going to the vent, mainly due to the fact the vent won’t close properly. I can’t
see any reason why the vent won’t close, but I can’t press it fully closed.
Any ideas how I can look at the mechanism from the actual vent to the lever
behind the instrument panel ?
TIA,
David
David Brown,
'67 Daimler 250
brownd@ml.com
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/_/_/_/_/______/_/_/_/______
/_/_/_/_/_/_/________/_/_____
___/_/_/////_/_/_/_/_/______
/_/___/_/_//_/_/_/____
///_/_/_/____/////_///_________
From: Michael Sutcliffe mgs@netspace.net.au
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 23:51:45 +0000
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #232
Re: Insults?
The only thing we ask here is that everyone respect the guidlines
of civil discourse which have served this group so well for so long./\ Lawrence Buja http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern
_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
________________Boulder,Colorado___80307-3000
I wish to congratulate Mr. Lawrence Buja on a superbly constructed
letter of advice which should be equally addressed to many authors
submitting personal insults on an otherwise worthwhile news group. I
have only been reading these notes for about five weeks and am a little
disappointed at the lack of good old fashioned manners which one would
expect of a Jaguar enthusiast.
I hope that the wonderful spirit of this ability to interact so easily
can be put to a more mature use.
Michael Sutcliffe
Looking for late model V12 Sovereign
From: BSherw@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 09:54:31 -0400
Subject: Jag historical data
jagbob @ix.netcom.com asked about obtaining historical data for a friend’s
'66 E-type-
Robert- I’m not sure exactly what they provide as “historical data”, but here
is address and phone no. for JCNA “Archives” (taken from Kirby Palm’s XJ-S
Help Booklet):
Jaguar Journal (JCNA)
P.O. Box 220
Stormville, NY. 12582
attn: Karen Miller
Ph. 201-818-8500, ask for archives
I think a non-member “Vehicle Information Request” costs $40 US. I called
this number earlier this week to find out exactly what information the report
provides. Apparently Karen only works two days a week (Kinda like me…
so I left a message, and I’m waiting for her reply.
Have any other list members ever used this service? Comments?
Brian Sherwood
'85 XJ6
'84 XJR-S, (I think)
From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@CompuServe.COM
Date: 25 Jul 96 10:05:38 EDT
Subject: Re: XK120
Dear David & Linda, I’ll add you to the list. Copy everyone else on it with
all messages. Re your engine, what are the original engine, body gearbox nos.
from the identification plate of your car? what is the number of the engine
actually fitted? We should be able to work out what model it was from, with the
number. Some people are fanatical about “matching numbers” but if you cannot
find the actual original engine, I wouldn’t worry too much about fitting a later
model 1950s XK engine. It is a personal opinion of course. If you find that
the fitted engine needs a big rebuild, you might decide to see if you can find
an XK120 engine again of course and rebuild it while continuing to use whatever
is currently fitted. I’ll copy this to others in the group and see what the
response is. Regards, John Elmgreen
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 09:23:37 -0500
Subject: Emissions testing in Minnesota, usa; ABS Failure light: '88 XJ40
One quick question: Not that it is unique, but I get mutiple and seemingly
random ABS failure messages. Has anyone noticed that their frequency and
duration has any corralation (sp?) to higher ambient air temps?
Item of possible interest to note, as there seem to be many emissions-test
threads on the list at various times. I took my jag in for its first
emissions test here in Minnesota, an annual affair for all cars over 4 years
old, which you get taxed for, but the state claims is not a tax, only a fee.
They check for an unvented fuel cap, catalytic converter, fuel inlet
restrictor (for unleaded only) and then test for HC (ppm) CO (%) and CO2 (%)
all at idle.
To pass the test you must have less than 220 ppm of HC, less than 1.20% CO,
and a minimum of 4.0% CO2. My car passed with 0 ppm of HC, 0% of CO, and
15.0% of CO2.
If you fail, you get another try at idle. If you fail again you get to go
get your car fixed and try later. No plates until your car passes, as you
must take your certificate in to get your renewal stickers.
Maybe this process is the same all over, but thought that some might find
what we do here of interest. If not, just let me know – nicely please –
as my flame-retardant suit is at the cleaners and I mean no harm!
Scott Phillips
'88 XJ40
PS While many of you have had nice ‘opportunities’ with your local gendarme,
I have discovered the opposite. A local policeman here who, I’m guessing,
doesn’t like my Jag, and will pull me over for any type of perceived
offence. Too slow a turn, frames around my plates, burned bulb, did I have
my seat belt fastened.
From: Felts_Thomas_L/atc_mail5-id@mail5-id.atc.alcoa.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 96 11:29:18 -0400
Subject: NOS Locators—Windshield Concern
Just a word to the wise on a concern I had with this company–NOS
Locators. Bought a new windshield from them for my E-Type. It did not
seal because of a design flaw---- top of the glass was uneven.
I called to complain, and was basically blamed for everything from a
poor rubber seal to a twisted top chrome. They “do not ship any flawed
windshields”!
My rubber seal was from Bartlett and the chrome top is original.
Bottom line—sorry, it is your fault we can’t help you.
If you buy from them, you might keep this in mind.
Tom
From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 09:30:37 MDT
Subject: Re: Major Problems with XJS
Carl wrote:
On Starting the Engine After Overhauling everthing ran Very Well Until the Owner of the Car (A Good Friend) Ran the Car up to 140 MPH for approx 20 Miles. The Car at this time had done around 2000 Miles from Overhauling of the Engine. When the Car was stopped after His High Speed Run We noticed a Very bad oil Leak from the Crankshaft Rear Main Oil Seal. It Appears that the Rear Main Bearing has Gone Again. I had a similar experience with a Ford V8 with a neoprene rear main seal (without the high speed run). I rebuillt the motor for the guy and spared no expense (everything new and machined correctly). After some 100 miles, he had a real leaker from the rear main area but only when the motor got to full operating temperature. I agreed to fix the problem. I origonally though that it was a leaking oil galley plug. Upon many hours of investigation, I discovered that it was the rear main seal. What had happened (again deleting many hours of investigation, measuring, fixing) is that upon start up, the guy who installed the motor had not used the correct start up procedure with respect to pre-oiling. Apparently, the rear main bearing had oil starved and got real hot. This literally melted the rear main seal and of course led to the leak. I checked the remainder of the bearings, journals, and clearances, replaced the rear main bearing, rear main seal, and the motor runs great for the last 50,000 miles. My point in common here with your problem is that bearing heat, which obviously destroyed your first bearing, can be significant enough to ruin seals. Your leak could be an indicator of a much worse problem. Lets hope not. All Parts were Checked with A Micrometer (Crankshaft ect) and were found to be well within Jaguar Recommended wear Limits. Crankshaft is Standard Size. I would have had the block checked for bearing bore alignment and the crank and rods checked for correct alignment. You don’t often get warnings like the bad bearing, and they should be investigated. If you did all of those things, I’m stumped unless it is an oil delivery problem. Kind regards, Jim Cantrell 76 XJ12C 76 XJ6C 66 Alpine 2.8L End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #234 ******************************** Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4) id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Fri, 26 Jul 1996 02:09:02 +0200 (MET DST) Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 02:09:02 +0200 (MET DST) Message-Id: 199607260009.CAA18142@ekeberg.sn.no X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #235 Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Precedence: bulk X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest jag-lovers-digest Friday, 26 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 235 Club Membership Help Request Re: Cleaning CWW’s RE: Lights going out How to Find a Mint Late V-12 XJ 1986 XJ12 VDP FOR SALE Re: How to find a mint late V-12 XJ Now I believe! I apologise for my English friends indiscressions Re: Mothers Wheel Cleaner Parts cleaning Coil change… E-Type gearbox whine at idle Re: Coil change… Dash top removal. Lacquer Paint Oh, no! Re: Coil change… XJ6 SIII Oxygen sensor Water and oil, backwards? RE: Parts Cleaning, Honda CVCC, Air Pollution digest of advice on:leaks…leaks…leaks…those pesky leaks Re: XJ6 SIII Oxygen sensor From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 08:46:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Club Membership Help Request Hi! I’ve been e-mailing various Jag clubs trying to re-join (I some how fell off of JCNA). I’d really appreciate being aimed at the right person or place. I’m in Orange County, California (Irvine). I want to re-join prior to the Monterey Classics, and would like to buy passes, etc, but as they are in 2.5 weeks, I’m getting rather concerned! Thanks! Hunt Dabney From: LLoyd 3030P@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil Date: Thu, 25 Jul 96 08:41:55 PDT Subject: Re: Cleaning CWW’s I’ve been asked by several people to look up the name of the CWW cleaner I mentioned a couple days ago. It’s the spray on stuff in a red plastic bottle that you let set for a few minutes and then hose off. I would have never guessed, but here is the name; Mothers Wheel Mist Wheel Cleaner It has a warning about it’s content and costs about $5 US a bottle. LLoyd - yes, and it cleans like a mother too - From: hdrsons@iamerica.net (Hal Rogers) Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 11:04:06 -0600 Subject: RE: Lights going out At 02:02 PM 7/25/96 +0100, Dave Brown - London Dev Xxxxx wrote:
When I drive under some of our streetlights with my 91 Sovereign, they
dim and go out.–
Donald R. FarrAre you sure it’s not just the car roof blocking out the light?:-)))))
That’s interesting…I have noticed that in while driving various cars in
the past, too. I though maybe the lights had a sensor that was picking up
the headlamps and shutting off the lamp temporarily.
Regards,
Hal
Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
Import Auto Specialists
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax
Serving Auto Enthusiasts since 1959
From: Daniel Kagan 101360.256@CompuServe.COM
Date: 25 Jul 96 11:38:11 EDT
Subject: How to Find a Mint Late V-12 XJ
I wonder if anyone could give me some buying advice. I am in the UK and would
love to lay my hands on a mint condition Series III XJ, preferably a 12-cylinder
car. By “mint”, I mean one of those rare cars that have less than 30,000 miles
and have been fastidiously maintained, or a thorough recent restoration of a
more used example. I have telephoned a few XJ specialists, who advertise in
Classic Car Mart, and have lodged a request for trade-ins on the Jaguar Dealer
network. I also go to our local auction house when they’re selling classic
luxury cars, but so far no luck. Has anyone any suggestions as to how I might
find what I’m looking for? Equally important: what does anyone think I should
be prepared to pay if I am lucky enough to find one! One dealer said that such
a car would fetch 20,000 pounds, but that sounded ludicrously high to me. I
would welcome your thoughts, ladies and gentlemen, and I thank you.
From: Dennis Rockwood dlr@cadence.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 12:45:39 -0400
Subject: 1986 XJ12 VDP FOR SALE
Fellow Jag lovers,
This is the car that I lost. See ‘Canada-to-US Registration HELP’
The owner and I decided that it is too much of a hassle to import
this car into US, my loss is someone’s gain, hopefully. I obviously
highly recommend this car, it has had excellent care, please discuss
details and price with Mr. Taylor, ( he doesn’t have an email ) and
I will continue my search for an 86 or 87 XJ6 in the US only.
Regards to all
For Sale - 1986 Jaguar XJ12 VDP
Vanden Plas model
94,000 KM (57,000 mi)
Sage Green exterior
#1 excellent condition
never seen winter
Contact William Taylor
Monteal, Quebec
514 737-0694
From: Dan Welchman Dan.Welchman@Smallworld.co.uk
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 96 18:06:25 BST
Subject: Re: How to find a mint late V-12 XJ
Daniel Kagan wrote:-
I wonder if anyone could give me some buying advice. I am in the UK and would
love to lay my hands on a mint condition Series III XJ, preferably a 12-cylinder
car… etc.
Hard to find!
…but try the magazine of the Jaguar Enthusiasts club (worth joining anyway).
…always has a lot of adverts for low-mileage cars, some with colour photos.
Dan.
From: “MarrioSD” marriosd@ccmail.apldbio.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 96 09:59:33 PDT
Subject: Now I believe!
Hi Jag-lovers
That’s better 32 replies to my “I don’t believe it” message. Virtually all were
informative.
A couple of replies stated that they didn’t answer my first message because they
thought that what they had to offer would have already occurred to me. Although
I’m reasonable familiar with some classic cars and quite handy at restoring
them, I’m not yet that familiar with the idiosyncrasies of the Jaguar marque.
I feel sure my sentiments are shared about getting to much information and
having to sift through it, is better than none at all, sorry 1 and thank you Jim
Ellis.
The good news is I have now opened the boot, it was a combination of information
from a number of people, the information that I used that I didn’t know or that
hadn’t occurred to me, was as follows.
-
I wasn’t aware that the boot and glove box keys were to same.
-
I had 3 keys that all looked identical, including the number on the key. I
wrongly assumed the keys were the same because of the numbers, somebody pointed
out that the number is the key type and not the lock number. -
This I had already tried, but no doudt had a bearing on the end result,
soaking the lock for a couple hours/days with WD40 or equivalent. -
One gentleman spent what must have been a long time drawing a diagram of a
lock barrel and how to pick it using wire and screw driver using letters and
numbers in ccMail. Thanks.
Armed with the above information I started by trying to pick the glove box,
unsuccessfully (I don’t intend to give up my day job just yet) but this must
have helped free the tumblers.
I then retried all the keys and found that one did in fact turn and open the
glove box, I now knew which key would fit the boot.
The boot was still reluctant to open, so I tried picking it again to loosen the
tumblers after which with maybe more pressure than would be normal the key
popped open the catch. After a few trys the key turns easily.
I would like to thank everybody for their time, I can now get access to the fuel
pumps and continue in my effort to start this sleeping lady. She last ran about
14 years ago.
Best Regards
Steve Marriott.
1965 ‘S’ Type Jaguar (non runner, needs interior)
1971 Jensen Interceptor (running needs cosmetics)
1974 Triumph TR6 (restored, winter transport)
1986 Cobra (RV not car, for hire)
1992 Explorer (wifes kids transporter)
1993 Kawasaki 750 Ninja (summer transport)
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 12:24:03 -0500
Subject: I apologise for my English friends indiscressions
I posted my comments privately, not on the list. I did this because I knew
they did not belong on a public forum. I however did not do it to hide
them. I have no objection to anyone seeing the comments.
While I feel that my course was correct and I have no objection to ANYONE
seeing what I wrote I do appologise for my antagonists indiscression in
placing an otherwise private discussion on the list.
Jim
===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"
John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: hdrsons@iamerica.net (Hal Rogers)
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 13:09:37 -0600
Subject: Re: Mothers Wheel Cleaner
At 08:41 AM 7/25/96 PDT, LLoyd wrote:
I’ve been asked by several people to look up the name of the CWW cleaner
I mentioned a couple days ago. It’s the spray on stuff in a red plastic
bottle that you let set for a few minutes and then hose off.
I would have never guessed, but here is the name;
Mothers
Wheel Mist
Wheel CleanerIt has a warning about it’s content and costs about $5 US a bottle.
LLoyd - yes, and it cleans like a mother too -
Our company used to carry Mothers but are moving into other lines. However,
I do have some Mothers procuct at 50% off old retail pricing. Products
include 1x bottle Red Wheel Cleaner Spray, lots of Mag Wheel Polish, lots of
various wax/cleaner products…all Mothers brand.
If anyone interested in the whole lot or parts…let me know.
Regards,
Hal
Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
Import Auto Specialists
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax
Serving Auto Enthusiasts since 1959
From: jorgen@tvnorge.no (Jorgen Scheel)
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 20:41:52 -0100
Subject: Parts cleaning
I like to use half a barell of diesel with chicken wire in the middle.
Lower the parts, let them soak and use toothbrush or so to clean good…
For really tough stuff I use a American carburator cleaner that I buy in
bottles, the last one is not nice to rubber and so on. I dont really know if
the diesel can harm anything, but the carbutrator cleaner gives you a
headache after a few minuttes…
1.5 x MK1 -59
jorgen@tvnorge.no
Sandvika - Norway
SMS: Write your message under “subject” and max. 120 letters.
4792264673@sms.netcom.tele3.no
From: jorgen@tvnorge.no (Jorgen Scheel)
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 20:49:50 -0100
Subject: Coil change…
In the jungle of ignition I need some tips.
Car: MkI 3.4 litre -59
My coil is taking its death breath.
What coil should one buy, is there any point in the “high voltage” in the
magazines? Can it harm anything?
How about going electonic with Luminition or similar, should a take this in
considiration when choosing coil?
Changed my front shocks today… I guess those springs were OK anyway…
1.5 x MK1 -59
jorgen@tvnorge.no
Sandvika - Norway
SMS: Write your message under “subject” and max. 120 letters.
4792264673@sms.netcom.tele3.no
From: Morrismori@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 15:54:23 -0400
Subject: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
(sorry for sending this message to majordomo first; hit the wrong button in
the address box)
I have an V12 E-type over here (in western germany) that has a lot of
problems but I and many of my fellow road users love it. (except my “get rid
of it” wife. Although she was greatful that I could give her a lift this
morning after her XJS failed to start ).
Anyway, anybody out there know what a whining noise emanating from the
gearbox is when the car is idling at the lights. (It’s quite loud and
obtrusive).
I’m not talking about the usual ( old bus) whine of the gears when driving.
This noise ceases when you depress the clutch and is not always present (
somewhat depending on the weather ).
I also noticed recently that the rear wheels turn when the back is jacked up
and the gearbox is not in gear. ( engine running of course). You can stop the
wheels by holding them quite easily, but I wonder if this is normal.
Be greatful for any tips on this,
Martin Gardiner,
Frankfurt, Germany
72 S3 E-Type roadster
89 XJS coupe
From: “MarrioSD” marriosd@ccmail.apldbio.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 96 13:45:23 PDT
Subject: Re: Coil change…
Hi
I’ve replaced both coils on my Triumph and Jensen in the last year, the Triumph
I used the Lucas Sports coil, and in the Jensen I used the MSD II.
Both work great, the reason I switched from Lucas to MSD was because after
installing the Lucas coil I bought a MSD electronic ignition (6A), this works
superbly, it puts about 450 volts on the primary side of the coil and give
multiple sparks where you would normally get only one.
If you even have chance to see their demo unit in car accessory shops, they use
conventional ignition first with a gap of about 4 inches, then switch to the
MSD. The best way to describe it is like a scene from an old Frankenstein movie
-
- quite unbelievable.
Having been so impressed with the MSD ignition on the Triumph I opted for the
MSD coil for the Jensen.
I hope this helps.
Best regards
Steve
Subject: Coil change…
From: jorgen@tvnorge.no (Jorgen Scheel) at CCMAIL
Date: 7/25/96 1:21 PM
In the jungle of ignition I need some tips.
Car: MkI 3.4 litre -59
My coil is taking its death breath.
What coil should one buy, is there any point in the “high voltage” in the
magazines? Can it harm anything?
How about going electonic with Luminition or similar, should a take this in
considiration when choosing coil?
Changed my front shocks today… I guess those springs were OK anyway…
1.5 x MK1 -59
jorgen@tvnorge.no
Sandvika - Norway
SMS: Write your message under “subject” and max. 120 letters.
4792264673@sms.netcom.tele3.no
From: “MarrioSD” marriosd@ccmail.apldbio.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 96 13:59:00 PDT
Subject: Dash top removal.
Hi Jag-lovers.
Can anybody advise me how to remove the dash top on a 1965 ‘S’ Type.The wood has
completely lost the veneer and requires refinishing.
Regards
Steve Marriott.
1965 ‘S’ Type Jaguar (non runner, needs interior)
1971 Jensen Interceptor (running needs cosmetics)
1974 Triumph TR6 (restored, winter transport)
1986 Cobra (RV not car, for hire)
1992 Explorer (wifes kids transporter)
1993 Kawasaki 750 Ninja (summer transport)
From: “MarrioSD” marriosd@ccmail.apldbio.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 96 13:56:31 PDT
Subject: Lacquer Paint
Yes I have split loyalties.
But both require painting in the next 12 months and having just finished
painting my Triumph with Base coat and clear, I’ve decided it takes a
disproportionate amount of time to finish the clear after it spends 1.5 hours
drying in my garage picking every bit of dust and crap you can imagine.
with this in mind can any body advise me where it is possible to get cellulose
lacquer still, as I intend to finish both cars in this.
The closer to the bay area in CA the better as I would like to be able to drive
there.
Regards
Steve Marriott.
1965 ‘S’ Type Jaguar (non runner, needs interior)
1971 Jensen Interceptor (running needs cosmetics)
1974 Triumph TR6 (restored, winter transport)
1986 Cobra (RV not car, for hire)
1992 Explorer (wifes kids transporter)
1993 Kawasaki 750 Ninja (summer transport)
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 17:43:56 -0400
Subject: Oh, no!
I’m BAAAAAACK!
I would suggest that someone verify what the average traffic on this list
was while I was gone vs. when I’m here. However, I have heard that the list
had some technical problems and sent multiple copies of messages while I was
gone, so perhaps I can avoid hearing the embarrassing statistics.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: jorgen@tvnorge.no (Jorgen Scheel)
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 00:13:48 -0100
Subject: Re: Coil change…
I’ve replaced both coils on my Triumph and Jensen in the last year, the Triumph
I used the Lucas Sports coil, and in the Jensen I used the MSD II.
MSD? It really does not tell me anything American? German? Would you know
the price range approx for a XK engine?
Got your boot up did you?
Thanks…
1.5 x MK1 -59
jorgen@tvnorge.no
Sandvika - Norway
SMS: Write your message under “subject” and max. 120 letters.
4792264673@sms.netcom.tele3.no
From: scoleman@pcl.net (Steve Coleman)
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 17:33:11 -0500
Subject: XJ6 SIII Oxygen sensor
Some recent messages in this forum concerning oxygen sensor operation
got me interested in replacing the one on my car, a 1987 XJ6 Series
III. It has almost 90,000 miles on it, the PO admitted to me that all
the maintainance on it had been done by a Mr Goodwrench shop and I did
not know if it had ever been replaced. I have learned to inspect a part
that I am replacing because often enough the “replacement” part sold to
me does not match the original. Sure enough, a visit to Auto Zone
produced a part which was not the same as the one in the car. The one
in my car is a three-lead variety; the one sold by Auto Zone, made by
Bosch and listed in Bosch’s own catalogue as the correct replacement, is
a single-lead variety. I examined the wiring schematic for the car, and
found that the oxygen sensor in the diagram indeed has only a single
connection to the ECU, with a ground connection presumably through the
exhaust downpipe. The sensor in my car has a black lead which connects
to a blue wire, identified in the wiring diagram as the connection to
the ECU. It also has a white and a white/black wire leading to a
separate plug, whose wire then disappears into the engine compartment
and I cannot trace it further. Is anyone familiar with these devices
and can tell me which one, that is, single- or three-lead, can be used,
and possibly what the other two wires coming out of the one I currently
have connect to?
Steve Coleman
1987 XJ6 Series III
1989 XJ40
From: reeder@sky.net (Bob & Ariana Reeder)
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 17:41:58 -0700
Subject: Water and oil, backwards?
I recently bought a Daimler 250 V8. It’s up on blocks right now getting
the engine ripped out for rebuilding. Any special advice I can receive I’m
sure would be most helpful. I found water in the oil pan (about 6 quarts)
and oil in the exhaust system. Sounds like something is backwards here.
HELP!
Bob Reeder
President Blackthorn Records
http://worldmall.com:80/reeder/
From: Curt Onstott onstottc@ucs.orst.edu
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 16:19:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: Parts Cleaning, Honda CVCC, Air Pollution
I have a 78 Honda Accord with the CVCC engine. I overhauled it two years
ago because the valve guides were worn. It had 120,000 miles and I could
still see the machining marks on the crank.
The carb on it is a bear to overhaul. The advice I’ve heard is to treat
it like a “black box,” and leave it alone. If one goes bad it is best to
buy a brand new one rather than reconditioned. They are very touchy…
-Pessimist: “This ship is sinking.” -Optimist: “This ship is half full.”
Curt Onstott - Windows/DOS/PC Specialist - Information Services - Oregon
State University. - (541) 737-1483 - Office: Kerr 217
From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 16:23:55 -0700
Subject: digest of advice on:leaks…leaks…leaks…those pesky leaks
Hi everyone,
I got a lot of responses/advice on the issue of my tranny leak. I thought
that others might be interested in the consensus of opinions…
-
Six out of ten gave the O-ring at the dipstick tube junction with the pan
the “thumbs up” for most likely source of the problem. Several had this
fixed and it worked. -
Two out of ten thought that the pan gasket was the culprit (when they
fixed theirs it solved their problem). -
Two of the ten thought the seal at the torque converter was the culprit;
in one case this solved his problem.
I don’t know about you but given the choices I like number one!!! I’ll let
you know how this turns out after I take care of it.
Also, another question: while attempting to find additional information
about the dipstick tube in the shop manual (almost none there!) I noticed
that there are only one or two diagrams that show the location of the
dipstick tube in the engine bay. Both diagrams indicate that the tube is on
the driver side (left side of the car as you sit in it). The tube in my car
is located on the passanger side. Any significance to this ?
Rob W-M
85 XJ-S
From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 10:03:37 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ6 SIII Oxygen sensor
Steve Coleman asked about the differences between various oxygen sensors.
There are a few wiring variants as far as oxygen sensors are concerned.
There is only one signal wire from any sensor which should output 0-1 volt
relative to the chassis earth. In normal closed loop operation, this
output should oscillate around a nominal value near 0.5 volt which a frequency
around 2 Hz. With age (or lead / silicone contamination), the output response
of the sensor can slow down, affecting the closed loop control performance.
To measure this output, a high impedance input imepedence volt meter is
required so that the sensor output is not too heavily loaded by the meter.
Extra wires are commonly used to supply an internal heater and or to provide
a signal earth. An internal heater allows the sensor to operate sooner after
startup. (The sensor requires a few hundred degrees to operate.) The signal
earth helps to ensure that the signal is not affected by voltage drops
between the sensor, exhaust and engine.
I don’t know the exact details of the SIII in question, but would guess that
the extra wires on the original sensor are for the heater circuit (which is
not required after the first 60 seconds or so, anyway). A single wire sensor
will operate exactly the same after this period.
Having just spent the last two days in an emissions lab doing preliminary
certification tests on Australian Ford Falcons, I’m getting quite used to
reading and engine’s state of tune from this humble sensor.
regards,
Robert
Robert Dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **
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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 26 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 236
Re[2]: Coil change…
Re: [SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve - SOLVED
Re: Originality debate
Re: Oh, no!
Re: I apologise for my English friends indiscressions
Re: Oh, no!
Re: I apologise for my English friends indiscressions
Re: Originality debate
Re: [SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve - SOLVED
Re: Water and oil, backwards?
Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
Re: Water and oil, backwards?
Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
Re: Oh, no!
Re: I apologise for my English friends indiscressions
Re: Originality debate
From: “MarrioSD” marriosd@ccmail.apldbio.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 96 17:06:30 PDT
Subject: Re[2]: Coil change…
Hi
MSD is an American company and can be contacted at Fax 915 857 3344.
The cost was about $150, it uses the existing points but draws so little current
that they should last indefinitely.
Regards
Steve
Subject: Re: Coil change…
From: jorgen@tvnorge.no (Jorgen Scheel) at CCMAIL
Date: 7/25/96 3:17 PM
I’ve replaced both coils on my Triumph and Jensen in the last year, the Triumph
I used the Lucas Sports coil, and in the Jensen I used the MSD II.
MSD? It really does not tell me anything American? German? Would you know
the price range approx for a XK engine?
Got your boot up did you?
Thanks…
1.5 x MK1 -59
jorgen@tvnorge.no
Sandvika - Norway
SMS: Write your message under “subject” and max. 120 letters.
4792264673@sms.netcom.tele3.no
From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 02:44:52 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: [SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve - SOLVED
Yesterday I wrote:
It’s amateur night!
I decided to adjust the idle speed of my 1986 Series III XJ6 4.2 tonight,
and went about the task with more brawn than brains.
Thanks to Richard Atherton and David J Shield for help and insights. Both
were spot on and helped me get things right again.
The accellerator pedal stuck simply because the butterfly valve was
closing completely and sticking against the housing. I readjusted the
butterfly valve according to specs and then had to readjust the idle
speed again because of the slightly increased airflow. I then checked the
throttle microswitch and found that it was working but it was also
misaligned. It stayed closed too long causing (as I understand it) the ECU
to go crazy: It’s trying to stabilize the idling speed in counteraction
to the drivers attempt to increase rpms. I adjusted it to open the
instant the throttle is starting to open.
I had a productive day today (took the day off from work and worked on the
car instead…), I managed to change all the brake pads, fix the
“Amsterdam-trip” leak in the exhaust and adjust the butterfly valve. Now
she’s almost as smooth as silk again, I just need to change that fan
coupling… (the car sounds almost like a plane taking off when above
1500rpm…)
You know, I actually love working on this car. It is so rewarding when
you get it right!
Gunnar
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar XJ6 4.2 Sovereign
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | Vicki who? What .sig virus?
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 11:39:14
Subject: Re: Originality debate
Mark McChesney :
Could you see the Mercedes, Porsche or BMW lists even
mentioning a conversion?
Quite apart from any damaging admissions like “they don’t need to”, there’s a
big difference between them and us. Has it struck you that their clubs are
always “Xyz Owners’ Club” and ours are always “Jaguar Drivers’ Club”?
Obviously, drivers are more concerned with how a car drives, owners with how
it…er…owns. I bought my XJC from an “owner” - it was quite original,
spotless and shiny - but barely ran and would have failed a roadworthiness
inspection…
Don’t worry about offending me, Mark, that would take quite a lot and I’m
certainly not offended. I just tried to analyse and make clear the underlying
reasons why we act as we do. I have this childish belief that if we all
understand the difference between fact and opinion, and concede that everybody
has a right to hold (and express) any opinion, however unfounded, we’ll all get
along better.
It’s unfortunate that written communication doesn’t include tone of voice,
facial expression and gestures (though we can do without some gestures); this
often leads to misunderstandings. What we need is a character set with better
smileys…
:3+)
All the best, and may you find a good XJ to de-lump… Unfortunately, ours are
all RHD, otherwise it might be worth your while importing a terminal case from
Australia (I’ve seen a decent, original, road-registered S2 XJ12 for 5,000
Ozbucks (4,000 US) and an XJS body shell in good nick for 800).
- -Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 11:55:55
Subject: Re: Oh, no!
What’s that? Have you ben away, Kirby?
:3+)
Welcome back, anyway…
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 11:54:09
Subject: Re: I apologise for my English friends indiscressions
Yeah, Jim, it’s a bit like running to mummy, isn’t it - “see what the nasty man
did to me”. Well, I’m not going to kiss it and make it well; private
conversations are private , and we should all know what to do if we don’t
like the temperature in the kitchen…
:3+)
- -Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 11:55:55
Subject: Re: Oh, no!
What’s that? Have you ben away, Kirby?
:3+)
Welcome back, anyway…
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 11:54:09
Subject: Re: I apologise for my English friends indiscressions
Yeah, Jim, it’s a bit like running to mummy, isn’t it - “see what the nasty man
did to me”. Well, I’m not going to kiss it and make it well; private
conversations are private , and we should all know what to do if we don’t
like the temperature in the kitchen…
:3+)
- -Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 11:39:14
Subject: Re: Originality debate
Mark McChesney :
Could you see the Mercedes, Porsche or BMW lists even
mentioning a conversion?
Quite apart from any damaging admissions like “they don’t need to”, there’s a
big difference between them and us. Has it struck you that their clubs are
always “Xyz Owners’ Club” and ours are always “Jaguar Drivers’ Club”?
Obviously, drivers are more concerned with how a car drives, owners with how
it…er…owns. I bought my XJC from an “owner” - it was quite original,
spotless and shiny - but barely ran and would have failed a roadworthiness
inspection…
Don’t worry about offending me, Mark, that would take quite a lot and I’m
certainly not offended. I just tried to analyse and make clear the underlying
reasons why we act as we do. I have this childish belief that if we all
understand the difference between fact and opinion, and concede that everybody
has a right to hold (and express) any opinion, however unfounded, we’ll all get
along better.
It’s unfortunate that written communication doesn’t include tone of voice,
facial expression and gestures (though we can do without some gestures); this
often leads to misunderstandings. What we need is a character set with better
smileys…
:3+)
All the best, and may you find a good XJ to de-lump… Unfortunately, ours are
all RHD, otherwise it might be worth your while importing a terminal case from
Australia (I’ve seen a decent, original, road-registered S2 XJ12 for 5,000
Ozbucks (4,000 US) and an XJS body shell in good nick for 800).
- -Jan
From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 02:44:52 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: [SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve - SOLVED
Yesterday I wrote:
It’s amateur night!
I decided to adjust the idle speed of my 1986 Series III XJ6 4.2 tonight,
and went about the task with more brawn than brains.
Thanks to Richard Atherton and David J Shield for help and insights. Both
were spot on and helped me get things right again.
The accellerator pedal stuck simply because the butterfly valve was
closing completely and sticking against the housing. I readjusted the
butterfly valve according to specs and then had to readjust the idle
speed again because of the slightly increased airflow. I then checked the
throttle microswitch and found that it was working but it was also
misaligned. It stayed closed too long causing (as I understand it) the ECU
to go crazy: It’s trying to stabilize the idling speed in counteraction
to the drivers attempt to increase rpms. I adjusted it to open the
instant the throttle is starting to open.
I had a productive day today (took the day off from work and worked on the
car instead…), I managed to change all the brake pads, fix the
“Amsterdam-trip” leak in the exhaust and adjust the butterfly valve. Now
she’s almost as smooth as silk again, I just need to change that fan
coupling… (the car sounds almost like a plane taking off when above
1500rpm…)
You know, I actually love working on this car. It is so rewarding when
you get it right!
Gunnar
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar XJ6 4.2 Sovereign
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | Vicki who? What .sig virus?
From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 18:54:03 +0700
Subject: Re: Water and oil, backwards?
Bob wrote:
I found water in the oil pan (about 6 quarts)
and oil in the exhaust system. Sounds like something is backwards here.
HELP!
Bob, the news may be bad, it may be not so bad. Several problems can
cause these symptoms:
-
Blown or leaking headgasket - not so bad, you’ll install a new
one as part of the rebuild anyway. -
Cracked head (the car’s). - Bad. Big bucks, unless you can find
someone parting out your type of engine on the cheap. Fat chance.
You can usually see the crack, especially if it’s leaking water. If
you can’t see the crack, have the head Magnafluxed (if it’s a cast
iron head) or Zyglowed (if it’s an aluminum head). If no crack is
found, move on to possibility 3. -
Cracked block - Bad. Same inspection techniques as with a
cracked head.
I read an advertisement in Hemmings about a company that repairs
cracks in cast iron. I have not heard of any successes with this, so I remain
skeptical.
Good luck.
Greg
G. W. Price & Company, Ltd
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Probabilistic Record Linkage Services
Consultants in research, information management
and program evaluation
From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 18:54:03 +0700
Subject: Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
I have an V12 E-type over here (in western germany) that has a lot
of problems but I and many of my fellow road users love it. (except
my “get rid of it” wife. Although she was greatful that I could
give her a lift this morning after her XJS failed to start ).
Anyway, anybody out there know what a whining noise emanating from
the gearbox is when the car is idling at the lights. (It’s quite
loud and obtrusive). I’m not talking about the usual ( old bus)
whine of the gears when driving. This noise ceases when you depress
the clutch and is not always present ( somewhat depending on the
weather ). I also noticed recently that the rear wheels turn when
the back is jacked up and the gearbox is not in gear. ( engine
running of course). You can stop the wheels by holding them quite
easily, but I wonder if this is normal.Be greatful for any tips on this,
Martin Gardiner,
Frankfurt, Germany
72 S3 E-Type roadster
89 XJS coupe
Martin,
I had a get-rid-of-it wife once. Got rid of it, though.
Though not an expert on E-types (or any other car, for that
matter), but having had (more than) my share of clutch/transmission
problems with british and other cars, three possible problems spring to
mind:
-
Clutch throwout bearing (noise usually appears when the clutch is
depressed, then disappears if you put the car in neutral and release
the clutch); -
Input shaft bushing/bearing in the flywheel (though usually a minor whine)
-
Worn input shaft bearing in the transmission housing (would make
sense if it disappears when the clutch is depressed, but should whine
all the time, not just at idle)
Hope this helps.
Greg.
G. W. Price & Company, Ltd
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Probabilistic Record Linkage Services
Consultants in research, information management
and program evaluation
From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 18:56:02 +0700
Subject: Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
I have an V12 E-type over here (in western germany) that has a lot
of problems but I and many of my fellow road users love it. (except
my “get rid of it” wife. Although she was greatful that I could
give her a lift this morning after her XJS failed to start ).
Anyway, anybody out there know what a whining noise emanating from
the gearbox is when the car is idling at the lights. (It’s quite
loud and obtrusive). I’m not talking about the usual ( old bus)
whine of the gears when driving. This noise ceases when you depress
the clutch and is not always present ( somewhat depending on the
weather ). I also noticed recently that the rear wheels turn when
the back is jacked up and the gearbox is not in gear. ( engine
running of course). You can stop the wheels by holding them quite
easily, but I wonder if this is normal.Be greatful for any tips on this,
Martin Gardiner,
Frankfurt, Germany
72 S3 E-Type roadster
89 XJS coupe
Martin,
I had a get-rid-of-it wife once. Got rid of her, though.
Though not an expert on E-types (or any other car, for that
matter), but having had (more than) my share of clutch/transmission
problems with british and other cars, three possible problems spring to
mind:
-
Clutch throwout bearing (noise usually appears when the clutch is
depressed, then disappears if you put the car in neutral and release
the clutch); -
Input shaft bushing/bearing in the flywheel (though usually a minor whine)
-
Worn input shaft bearing in the transmission housing (would make
sense if it disappears when the clutch is depressed, but should whine
all the time, not just at idle)
Hope this helps.
Greg.
G. W. Price & Company, Ltd
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Probabilistic Record Linkage Services
Consultants in research, information management
and program evaluation
From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 18:54:03 +0700
Subject: Re: Water and oil, backwards?
Bob wrote:
I found water in the oil pan (about 6 quarts)
and oil in the exhaust system. Sounds like something is backwards here.
HELP!
Bob, the news may be bad, it may be not so bad. Several problems can
cause these symptoms:
-
Blown or leaking headgasket - not so bad, you’ll install a new
one as part of the rebuild anyway. -
Cracked head (the car’s). - Bad. Big bucks, unless you can find
someone parting out your type of engine on the cheap. Fat chance.
You can usually see the crack, especially if it’s leaking water. If
you can’t see the crack, have the head Magnafluxed (if it’s a cast
iron head) or Zyglowed (if it’s an aluminum head). If no crack is
found, move on to possibility 3. -
Cracked block - Bad. Same inspection techniques as with a
cracked head.
I read an advertisement in Hemmings about a company that repairs
cracks in cast iron. I have not heard of any successes with this, so I remain
skeptical.
Good luck.
Greg
G. W. Price & Company, Ltd
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Probabilistic Record Linkage Services
Consultants in research, information management
and program evaluation
From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 18:54:03 +0700
Subject: Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
I have an V12 E-type over here (in western germany) that has a lot
of problems but I and many of my fellow road users love it. (except
my “get rid of it” wife. Although she was greatful that I could
give her a lift this morning after her XJS failed to start ).
Anyway, anybody out there know what a whining noise emanating from
the gearbox is when the car is idling at the lights. (It’s quite
loud and obtrusive). I’m not talking about the usual ( old bus)
whine of the gears when driving. This noise ceases when you depress
the clutch and is not always present ( somewhat depending on the
weather ). I also noticed recently that the rear wheels turn when
the back is jacked up and the gearbox is not in gear. ( engine
running of course). You can stop the wheels by holding them quite
easily, but I wonder if this is normal.Be greatful for any tips on this,
Martin Gardiner,
Frankfurt, Germany
72 S3 E-Type roadster
89 XJS coupe
Martin,
I had a get-rid-of-it wife once. Got rid of it, though.
Though not an expert on E-types (or any other car, for that
matter), but having had (more than) my share of clutch/transmission
problems with british and other cars, three possible problems spring to
mind:
-
Clutch throwout bearing (noise usually appears when the clutch is
depressed, then disappears if you put the car in neutral and release
the clutch); -
Input shaft bushing/bearing in the flywheel (though usually a minor whine)
-
Worn input shaft bearing in the transmission housing (would make
sense if it disappears when the clutch is depressed, but should whine
all the time, not just at idle)
Hope this helps.
Greg.
G. W. Price & Company, Ltd
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Probabilistic Record Linkage Services
Consultants in research, information management
and program evaluation
From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 18:56:02 +0700
Subject: Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
I have an V12 E-type over here (in western germany) that has a lot
of problems but I and many of my fellow road users love it. (except
my “get rid of it” wife. Although she was greatful that I could
give her a lift this morning after her XJS failed to start ).
Anyway, anybody out there know what a whining noise emanating from
the gearbox is when the car is idling at the lights. (It’s quite
loud and obtrusive). I’m not talking about the usual ( old bus)
whine of the gears when driving. This noise ceases when you depress
the clutch and is not always present ( somewhat depending on the
weather ). I also noticed recently that the rear wheels turn when
the back is jacked up and the gearbox is not in gear. ( engine
running of course). You can stop the wheels by holding them quite
easily, but I wonder if this is normal.Be greatful for any tips on this,
Martin Gardiner,
Frankfurt, Germany
72 S3 E-Type roadster
89 XJS coupe
Martin,
I had a get-rid-of-it wife once. Got rid of her, though.
Though not an expert on E-types (or any other car, for that
matter), but having had (more than) my share of clutch/transmission
problems with british and other cars, three possible problems spring to
mind:
-
Clutch throwout bearing (noise usually appears when the clutch is
depressed, then disappears if you put the car in neutral and release
the clutch); -
Input shaft bushing/bearing in the flywheel (though usually a minor whine)
-
Worn input shaft bearing in the transmission housing (would make
sense if it disappears when the clutch is depressed, but should whine
all the time, not just at idle)
Hope this helps.
Greg.
G. W. Price & Company, Ltd
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Probabilistic Record Linkage Services
Consultants in research, information management
and program evaluation
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 11:55:55
Subject: Re: Oh, no!
What’s that? Have you ben away, Kirby?
:3+)
Welcome back, anyway…
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 11:54:09
Subject: Re: I apologise for my English friends indiscressions
Yeah, Jim, it’s a bit like running to mummy, isn’t it - “see what the nasty man
did to me”. Well, I’m not going to kiss it and make it well; private
conversations are private , and we should all know what to do if we don’t
like the temperature in the kitchen…
:3+)
- -Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 11:39:14
Subject: Re: Originality debate
Mark McChesney :
Could you see the Mercedes, Porsche or BMW lists even
mentioning a conversion?
Quite apart from any damaging admissions like “they don’t need to”, there’s a
big difference between them and us. Has it struck you that their clubs are
always “Xyz Owners’ Club” and ours are always “Jaguar Drivers’ Club”?
Obviously, drivers are more concerned with how a car drives, owners with how
it…er…owns. I bought my XJC from an “owner” - it was quite original,
spotless and shiny - but barely ran and would have failed a roadworthiness
inspection…
Don’t worry about offending me, Mark, that would take quite a lot and I’m
certainly not offended. I just tried to analyse and make clear the underlying
reasons why we act as we do. I have this childish belief that if we all
understand the difference between fact and opinion, and concede that everybody
has a right to hold (and express) any opinion, however unfounded, we’ll all get
along better.
It’s unfortunate that written communication doesn’t include tone of voice,
facial expression and gestures (though we can do without some gestures); this
often leads to misunderstandings. What we need is a character set with better
smileys…
:3+)
All the best, and may you find a good XJ to de-lump… Unfortunately, ours are
all RHD, otherwise it might be worth your while importing a terminal case from
Australia (I’ve seen a decent, original, road-registered S2 XJ12 for 5,000
Ozbucks (4,000 US) and an XJS body shell in good nick for 800).
- -Jan
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #236
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To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #237
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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 26 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 237
Re: [SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve - SOLVED
Re: Emissions testing in Minnesota, usa; ABS Failure light: '88 XJ40
Re: Emissions testing in Minnesota, usa; ABS Failure light: '88 XJ40
Re: Water and oil, backwards?
Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
Re: Oh, no!
Re: I apologise for my English friends indiscressions
Re: Originality debate
Re: [SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve - SOLVED
Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
Re: symbols/abbreviations
Re: Major Problems with XJS
Re: symbols/abbreviations
XKE Sunvisors
Re: Major Problems with XJS
Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
Re: Emissions testing in Minnesota, usa; ABS Failure light: '88 XJ40
Re: Water and oil, backwards?
Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 02:44:52 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: [SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve - SOLVED
Yesterday I wrote:
It’s amateur night!
I decided to adjust the idle speed of my 1986 Series III XJ6 4.2 tonight,
and went about the task with more brawn than brains.
Thanks to Richard Atherton and David J Shield for help and insights. Both
were spot on and helped me get things right again.
The accellerator pedal stuck simply because the butterfly valve was
closing completely and sticking against the housing. I readjusted the
butterfly valve according to specs and then had to readjust the idle
speed again because of the slightly increased airflow. I then checked the
throttle microswitch and found that it was working but it was also
misaligned. It stayed closed too long causing (as I understand it) the ECU
to go crazy: It’s trying to stabilize the idling speed in counteraction
to the drivers attempt to increase rpms. I adjusted it to open the
instant the throttle is starting to open.
I had a productive day today (took the day off from work and worked on the
car instead…), I managed to change all the brake pads, fix the
“Amsterdam-trip” leak in the exhaust and adjust the butterfly valve. Now
she’s almost as smooth as silk again, I just need to change that fan
coupling… (the car sounds almost like a plane taking off when above
1500rpm…)
You know, I actually love working on this car. It is so rewarding when
you get it right!
Gunnar
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar XJ6 4.2 Sovereign
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | Vicki who? What .sig virus?
From: “Robert Johnson, D.Sc.” bjomejag@sover.net
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 22:01:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Emissions testing in Minnesota, usa; ABS Failure light: '88 XJ40
Scott W. Phillips wrote:
One quick question: Not that it is unique, but I get mutiple and seemingly
random ABS failure messages. Has anyone noticed that their frequency and
duration has any corralation (sp?) to higher ambient air temps?
I believe the cause of the random ABS error message is a high
resistance in the coil of the wheel sensor. It seems that small stones
get between the sensor barrel and the hub carrier. Over time the
winding develops high resistance and eventually opens completely.
Prior to opening the poor coil connection results in random low
voltage pulses and the resulting error signal. It would be reasonable
for the resistance to go up with higher temperature and explain the
observation you have made.
A possible explanation.
Bob
SS1,Mk1,MkX and XJS
Brattleboro, VT
From: “Robert Johnson, D.Sc.” bjomejag@sover.net
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 22:01:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Emissions testing in Minnesota, usa; ABS Failure light: '88 XJ40
Scott W. Phillips wrote:
One quick question: Not that it is unique, but I get mutiple and seemingly
random ABS failure messages. Has anyone noticed that their frequency and
duration has any corralation (sp?) to higher ambient air temps?
I believe the cause of the random ABS error message is a high
resistance in the coil of the wheel sensor. It seems that small stones
get between the sensor barrel and the hub carrier. Over time the
winding develops high resistance and eventually opens completely.
Prior to opening the poor coil connection results in random low
voltage pulses and the resulting error signal. It would be reasonable
for the resistance to go up with higher temperature and explain the
observation you have made.
A possible explanation.
Bob
SS1,Mk1,MkX and XJS
Brattleboro, VT
From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 18:54:03 +0700
Subject: Re: Water and oil, backwards?
Bob wrote:
I found water in the oil pan (about 6 quarts)
and oil in the exhaust system. Sounds like something is backwards here.
HELP!
Bob, the news may be bad, it may be not so bad. Several problems can
cause these symptoms:
-
Blown or leaking headgasket - not so bad, you’ll install a new
one as part of the rebuild anyway. -
Cracked head (the car’s). - Bad. Big bucks, unless you can find
someone parting out your type of engine on the cheap. Fat chance.
You can usually see the crack, especially if it’s leaking water. If
you can’t see the crack, have the head Magnafluxed (if it’s a cast
iron head) or Zyglowed (if it’s an aluminum head). If no crack is
found, move on to possibility 3. -
Cracked block - Bad. Same inspection techniques as with a
cracked head.
I read an advertisement in Hemmings about a company that repairs
cracks in cast iron. I have not heard of any successes with this, so I remain
skeptical.
Good luck.
Greg
G. W. Price & Company, Ltd
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Probabilistic Record Linkage Services
Consultants in research, information management
and program evaluation
From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 18:54:03 +0700
Subject: Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
I have an V12 E-type over here (in western germany) that has a lot
of problems but I and many of my fellow road users love it. (except
my “get rid of it” wife. Although she was greatful that I could
give her a lift this morning after her XJS failed to start ).
Anyway, anybody out there know what a whining noise emanating from
the gearbox is when the car is idling at the lights. (It’s quite
loud and obtrusive). I’m not talking about the usual ( old bus)
whine of the gears when driving. This noise ceases when you depress
the clutch and is not always present ( somewhat depending on the
weather ). I also noticed recently that the rear wheels turn when
the back is jacked up and the gearbox is not in gear. ( engine
running of course). You can stop the wheels by holding them quite
easily, but I wonder if this is normal.Be greatful for any tips on this,
Martin Gardiner,
Frankfurt, Germany
72 S3 E-Type roadster
89 XJS coupe
Martin,
I had a get-rid-of-it wife once. Got rid of it, though.
Though not an expert on E-types (or any other car, for that
matter), but having had (more than) my share of clutch/transmission
problems with british and other cars, three possible problems spring to
mind:
-
Clutch throwout bearing (noise usually appears when the clutch is
depressed, then disappears if you put the car in neutral and release
the clutch); -
Input shaft bushing/bearing in the flywheel (though usually a minor whine)
-
Worn input shaft bearing in the transmission housing (would make
sense if it disappears when the clutch is depressed, but should whine
all the time, not just at idle)
Hope this helps.
Greg.
G. W. Price & Company, Ltd
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Probabilistic Record Linkage Services
Consultants in research, information management
and program evaluation
From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 18:56:02 +0700
Subject: Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
I have an V12 E-type over here (in western germany) that has a lot
of problems but I and many of my fellow road users love it. (except
my “get rid of it” wife. Although she was greatful that I could
give her a lift this morning after her XJS failed to start ).
Anyway, anybody out there know what a whining noise emanating from
the gearbox is when the car is idling at the lights. (It’s quite
loud and obtrusive). I’m not talking about the usual ( old bus)
whine of the gears when driving. This noise ceases when you depress
the clutch and is not always present ( somewhat depending on the
weather ). I also noticed recently that the rear wheels turn when
the back is jacked up and the gearbox is not in gear. ( engine
running of course). You can stop the wheels by holding them quite
easily, but I wonder if this is normal.Be greatful for any tips on this,
Martin Gardiner,
Frankfurt, Germany
72 S3 E-Type roadster
89 XJS coupe
Martin,
I had a get-rid-of-it wife once. Got rid of her, though.
Though not an expert on E-types (or any other car, for that
matter), but having had (more than) my share of clutch/transmission
problems with british and other cars, three possible problems spring to
mind:
-
Clutch throwout bearing (noise usually appears when the clutch is
depressed, then disappears if you put the car in neutral and release
the clutch); -
Input shaft bushing/bearing in the flywheel (though usually a minor whine)
-
Worn input shaft bearing in the transmission housing (would make
sense if it disappears when the clutch is depressed, but should whine
all the time, not just at idle)
Hope this helps.
Greg.
G. W. Price & Company, Ltd
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Probabilistic Record Linkage Services
Consultants in research, information management
and program evaluation
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 11:55:55
Subject: Re: Oh, no!
What’s that? Have you ben away, Kirby?
:3+)
Welcome back, anyway…
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 11:54:09
Subject: Re: I apologise for my English friends indiscressions
Yeah, Jim, it’s a bit like running to mummy, isn’t it - “see what the nasty man
did to me”. Well, I’m not going to kiss it and make it well; private
conversations are private , and we should all know what to do if we don’t
like the temperature in the kitchen…
:3+)
- -Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 11:39:14
Subject: Re: Originality debate
Mark McChesney :
Could you see the Mercedes, Porsche or BMW lists even
mentioning a conversion?
Quite apart from any damaging admissions like “they don’t need to”, there’s a
big difference between them and us. Has it struck you that their clubs are
always “Xyz Owners’ Club” and ours are always “Jaguar Drivers’ Club”?
Obviously, drivers are more concerned with how a car drives, owners with how
it…er…owns. I bought my XJC from an “owner” - it was quite original,
spotless and shiny - but barely ran and would have failed a roadworthiness
inspection…
Don’t worry about offending me, Mark, that would take quite a lot and I’m
certainly not offended. I just tried to analyse and make clear the underlying
reasons why we act as we do. I have this childish belief that if we all
understand the difference between fact and opinion, and concede that everybody
has a right to hold (and express) any opinion, however unfounded, we’ll all get
along better.
It’s unfortunate that written communication doesn’t include tone of voice,
facial expression and gestures (though we can do without some gestures); this
often leads to misunderstandings. What we need is a character set with better
smileys…
:3+)
All the best, and may you find a good XJ to de-lump… Unfortunately, ours are
all RHD, otherwise it might be worth your while importing a terminal case from
Australia (I’ve seen a decent, original, road-registered S2 XJ12 for 5,000
Ozbucks (4,000 US) and an XJS body shell in good nick for 800).
- -Jan
From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 02:44:52 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: [SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve - SOLVED
Yesterday I wrote:
It’s amateur night!
I decided to adjust the idle speed of my 1986 Series III XJ6 4.2 tonight,
and went about the task with more brawn than brains.
Thanks to Richard Atherton and David J Shield for help and insights. Both
were spot on and helped me get things right again.
The accellerator pedal stuck simply because the butterfly valve was
closing completely and sticking against the housing. I readjusted the
butterfly valve according to specs and then had to readjust the idle
speed again because of the slightly increased airflow. I then checked the
throttle microswitch and found that it was working but it was also
misaligned. It stayed closed too long causing (as I understand it) the ECU
to go crazy: It’s trying to stabilize the idling speed in counteraction
to the drivers attempt to increase rpms. I adjusted it to open the
instant the throttle is starting to open.
I had a productive day today (took the day off from work and worked on the
car instead…), I managed to change all the brake pads, fix the
“Amsterdam-trip” leak in the exhaust and adjust the butterfly valve. Now
she’s almost as smooth as silk again, I just need to change that fan
coupling… (the car sounds almost like a plane taking off when above
1500rpm…)
You know, I actually love working on this car. It is so rewarding when
you get it right!
Gunnar
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar XJ6 4.2 Sovereign
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | Vicki who? What .sig virus?
From: “Robert Johnson, D.Sc.” bjomejag@sover.net
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 22:17:29 -0500
Subject: Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
Morrismori@aol.com wrote:
(sorry for sending this message to majordomo first; hit the wrong button in
the address box)I have an V12 E-type over here (in western germany) that has a lot of
problems but I and many of my fellow road users love it. (except my “get rid
of it” wife. Although she was greatful that I could give her a lift this
morning after her XJS failed to start ).
Anyway, anybody out there know what a whining noise emanating from the
gearbox is when the car is idling at the lights. (It’s quite loud and
obtrusive)
It sounds like the throw out bearing. If so the noise will go away
when you pick off the clutch, as the thrust on the bearing only exists
when the clutch is depressed. It is common to have the sound change or
vanish by pumping the clutch.
Hope this helps,
Bob
MkVIII, E-Type, XJ50
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 13:10:15
Subject: Re: symbols/abbreviations
And let’s not forget
= grin
= big grin
:3+) = me, peering over my granny glasses and, as always, smiling
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 13:17:05
Subject: Re: Major Problems with XJS
Did you check all oil passages in the block and crankshaft…? My first guess
would be that the passage from the gallery to the rear bearing is blocked.
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 13:10:15
Subject: Re: symbols/abbreviations
And let’s not forget
= grin
= big grin
:3+) = me, peering over my granny glasses and, as always, smiling
-
- Jan
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 22:31:52 -0400
Subject: XKE Sunvisors
I just finished installing my new sunvisors from BAS (360 332-9302). As far
as I know, they are the only people making coupe sunvisors. Quality is
outstanding.
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 13:17:05
Subject: Re: Major Problems with XJS
Did you check all oil passages in the block and crankshaft…? My first guess
would be that the passage from the gallery to the rear bearing is blocked.
-
- Jan
From: “Robert Johnson, D.Sc.” bjomejag@sover.net
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 22:17:29 -0500
Subject: Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
Morrismori@aol.com wrote:
(sorry for sending this message to majordomo first; hit the wrong button in
the address box)I have an V12 E-type over here (in western germany) that has a lot of
problems but I and many of my fellow road users love it. (except my “get rid
of it” wife. Although she was greatful that I could give her a lift this
morning after her XJS failed to start ).
Anyway, anybody out there know what a whining noise emanating from the
gearbox is when the car is idling at the lights. (It’s quite loud and
obtrusive)
It sounds like the throw out bearing. If so the noise will go away
when you pick off the clutch, as the thrust on the bearing only exists
when the clutch is depressed. It is common to have the sound change or
vanish by pumping the clutch.
Hope this helps,
Bob
MkVIII, E-Type, XJ50
From: “Robert Johnson, D.Sc.” bjomejag@sover.net
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 22:01:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Emissions testing in Minnesota, usa; ABS Failure light: '88 XJ40
Scott W. Phillips wrote:
One quick question: Not that it is unique, but I get mutiple and seemingly
random ABS failure messages. Has anyone noticed that their frequency and
duration has any corralation (sp?) to higher ambient air temps?
I believe the cause of the random ABS error message is a high
resistance in the coil of the wheel sensor. It seems that small stones
get between the sensor barrel and the hub carrier. Over time the
winding develops high resistance and eventually opens completely.
Prior to opening the poor coil connection results in random low
voltage pulses and the resulting error signal. It would be reasonable
for the resistance to go up with higher temperature and explain the
observation you have made.
A possible explanation.
Bob
SS1,Mk1,MkX and XJS
Brattleboro, VT
From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 18:54:03 +0700
Subject: Re: Water and oil, backwards?
Bob wrote:
I found water in the oil pan (about 6 quarts)
and oil in the exhaust system. Sounds like something is backwards here.
HELP!
Bob, the news may be bad, it may be not so bad. Several problems can
cause these symptoms:
-
Blown or leaking headgasket - not so bad, you’ll install a new
one as part of the rebuild anyway. -
Cracked head (the car’s). - Bad. Big bucks, unless you can find
someone parting out your type of engine on the cheap. Fat chance.
You can usually see the crack, especially if it’s leaking water. If
you can’t see the crack, have the head Magnafluxed (if it’s a cast
iron head) or Zyglowed (if it’s an aluminum head). If no crack is
found, move on to possibility 3. -
Cracked block - Bad. Same inspection techniques as with a
cracked head.
I read an advertisement in Hemmings about a company that repairs
cracks in cast iron. I have not heard of any successes with this, so I remain
skeptical.
Good luck.
Greg
G. W. Price & Company, Ltd
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Probabilistic Record Linkage Services
Consultants in research, information management
and program evaluation
From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 18:54:03 +0700
Subject: Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
I have an V12 E-type over here (in western germany) that has a lot
of problems but I and many of my fellow road users love it. (except
my “get rid of it” wife. Although she was greatful that I could
give her a lift this morning after her XJS failed to start ).
Anyway, anybody out there know what a whining noise emanating from
the gearbox is when the car is idling at the lights. (It’s quite
loud and obtrusive). I’m not talking about the usual ( old bus)
whine of the gears when driving. This noise ceases when you depress
the clutch and is not always present ( somewhat depending on the
weather ). I also noticed recently that the rear wheels turn when
the back is jacked up and the gearbox is not in gear. ( engine
running of course). You can stop the wheels by holding them quite
easily, but I wonder if this is normal.Be greatful for any tips on this,
Martin Gardiner,
Frankfurt, Germany
72 S3 E-Type roadster
89 XJS coupe
Martin,
I had a get-rid-of-it wife once. Got rid of it, though.
Though not an expert on E-types (or any other car, for that
matter), but having had (more than) my share of clutch/transmission
problems with british and other cars, three possible problems spring to
mind:
-
Clutch throwout bearing (noise usually appears when the clutch is
depressed, then disappears if you put the car in neutral and release
the clutch); -
Input shaft bushing/bearing in the flywheel (though usually a minor whine)
-
Worn input shaft bearing in the transmission housing (would make
sense if it disappears when the clutch is depressed, but should whine
all the time, not just at idle)
Hope this helps.
Greg.
G. W. Price & Company, Ltd
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Probabilistic Record Linkage Services
Consultants in research, information management
and program evaluation
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #237
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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 26 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 238
Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
Re: Oh, no!
Re: I apologise for my English friends indiscressions
XKE Sunvisors
Re: Originality debate
Re: symbols/abbreviations
Re: [SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve - SOLVED
Re: Major Problems with XJS
Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
Re: Emissions testing in Minnesota, usa; ABS Failure light: '88 XJ40
Re: Water and oil, backwards?
Re: Originality debate
Re: [SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve - SOLVED
Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
Re: Lucas Relay standards (general interest)
Re: [SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve stop screw/nut
Re: Oh, no!
Re: I apologise for my English friends indiscressions
Re: Lucas Relay standards (general interest)
From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 18:56:02 +0700
Subject: Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
I have an V12 E-type over here (in western germany) that has a lot
of problems but I and many of my fellow road users love it. (except
my “get rid of it” wife. Although she was greatful that I could
give her a lift this morning after her XJS failed to start ).
Anyway, anybody out there know what a whining noise emanating from
the gearbox is when the car is idling at the lights. (It’s quite
loud and obtrusive). I’m not talking about the usual ( old bus)
whine of the gears when driving. This noise ceases when you depress
the clutch and is not always present ( somewhat depending on the
weather ). I also noticed recently that the rear wheels turn when
the back is jacked up and the gearbox is not in gear. ( engine
running of course). You can stop the wheels by holding them quite
easily, but I wonder if this is normal.Be greatful for any tips on this,
Martin Gardiner,
Frankfurt, Germany
72 S3 E-Type roadster
89 XJS coupe
Martin,
I had a get-rid-of-it wife once. Got rid of her, though.
Though not an expert on E-types (or any other car, for that
matter), but having had (more than) my share of clutch/transmission
problems with british and other cars, three possible problems spring to
mind:
-
Clutch throwout bearing (noise usually appears when the clutch is
depressed, then disappears if you put the car in neutral and release
the clutch); -
Input shaft bushing/bearing in the flywheel (though usually a minor whine)
-
Worn input shaft bearing in the transmission housing (would make
sense if it disappears when the clutch is depressed, but should whine
all the time, not just at idle)
Hope this helps.
Greg.
G. W. Price & Company, Ltd
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Probabilistic Record Linkage Services
Consultants in research, information management
and program evaluation
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 11:55:55
Subject: Re: Oh, no!
What’s that? Have you ben away, Kirby?
:3+)
Welcome back, anyway…
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 11:54:09
Subject: Re: I apologise for my English friends indiscressions
Yeah, Jim, it’s a bit like running to mummy, isn’t it - “see what the nasty man
did to me”. Well, I’m not going to kiss it and make it well; private
conversations are private , and we should all know what to do if we don’t
like the temperature in the kitchen…
:3+)
- -Jan
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 22:31:52 -0400
Subject: XKE Sunvisors
I just finished installing my new sunvisors from BAS (360 332-9302). As far
as I know, they are the only people making coupe sunvisors. Quality is
outstanding.
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 11:39:14
Subject: Re: Originality debate
Mark McChesney :
Could you see the Mercedes, Porsche or BMW lists even
mentioning a conversion?
Quite apart from any damaging admissions like “they don’t need to”, there’s a
big difference between them and us. Has it struck you that their clubs are
always “Xyz Owners’ Club” and ours are always “Jaguar Drivers’ Club”?
Obviously, drivers are more concerned with how a car drives, owners with how
it…er…owns. I bought my XJC from an “owner” - it was quite original,
spotless and shiny - but barely ran and would have failed a roadworthiness
inspection…
Don’t worry about offending me, Mark, that would take quite a lot and I’m
certainly not offended. I just tried to analyse and make clear the underlying
reasons why we act as we do. I have this childish belief that if we all
understand the difference between fact and opinion, and concede that everybody
has a right to hold (and express) any opinion, however unfounded, we’ll all get
along better.
It’s unfortunate that written communication doesn’t include tone of voice,
facial expression and gestures (though we can do without some gestures); this
often leads to misunderstandings. What we need is a character set with better
smileys…
:3+)
All the best, and may you find a good XJ to de-lump… Unfortunately, ours are
all RHD, otherwise it might be worth your while importing a terminal case from
Australia (I’ve seen a decent, original, road-registered S2 XJ12 for 5,000
Ozbucks (4,000 US) and an XJS body shell in good nick for 800).
- -Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 13:10:15
Subject: Re: symbols/abbreviations
And let’s not forget
= grin
= big grin
:3+) = me, peering over my granny glasses and, as always, smiling
-
- Jan
From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 02:44:52 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: [SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve - SOLVED
Yesterday I wrote:
It’s amateur night!
I decided to adjust the idle speed of my 1986 Series III XJ6 4.2 tonight,
and went about the task with more brawn than brains.
Thanks to Richard Atherton and David J Shield for help and insights. Both
were spot on and helped me get things right again.
The accellerator pedal stuck simply because the butterfly valve was
closing completely and sticking against the housing. I readjusted the
butterfly valve according to specs and then had to readjust the idle
speed again because of the slightly increased airflow. I then checked the
throttle microswitch and found that it was working but it was also
misaligned. It stayed closed too long causing (as I understand it) the ECU
to go crazy: It’s trying to stabilize the idling speed in counteraction
to the drivers attempt to increase rpms. I adjusted it to open the
instant the throttle is starting to open.
I had a productive day today (took the day off from work and worked on the
car instead…), I managed to change all the brake pads, fix the
“Amsterdam-trip” leak in the exhaust and adjust the butterfly valve. Now
she’s almost as smooth as silk again, I just need to change that fan
coupling… (the car sounds almost like a plane taking off when above
1500rpm…)
You know, I actually love working on this car. It is so rewarding when
you get it right!
Gunnar
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar XJ6 4.2 Sovereign
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | Vicki who? What .sig virus?
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 13:17:05
Subject: Re: Major Problems with XJS
Did you check all oil passages in the block and crankshaft…? My first guess
would be that the passage from the gallery to the rear bearing is blocked.
-
- Jan
From: “Robert Johnson, D.Sc.” bjomejag@sover.net
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 22:17:29 -0500
Subject: Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
Morrismori@aol.com wrote:
(sorry for sending this message to majordomo first; hit the wrong button in
the address box)I have an V12 E-type over here (in western germany) that has a lot of
problems but I and many of my fellow road users love it. (except my “get rid
of it” wife. Although she was greatful that I could give her a lift this
morning after her XJS failed to start ).
Anyway, anybody out there know what a whining noise emanating from the
gearbox is when the car is idling at the lights. (It’s quite loud and
obtrusive)
It sounds like the throw out bearing. If so the noise will go away
when you pick off the clutch, as the thrust on the bearing only exists
when the clutch is depressed. It is common to have the sound change or
vanish by pumping the clutch.
Hope this helps,
Bob
MkVIII, E-Type, XJ50
From: “Robert Johnson, D.Sc.” bjomejag@sover.net
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 22:01:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Emissions testing in Minnesota, usa; ABS Failure light: '88 XJ40
Scott W. Phillips wrote:
One quick question: Not that it is unique, but I get mutiple and seemingly
random ABS failure messages. Has anyone noticed that their frequency and
duration has any corralation (sp?) to higher ambient air temps?
I believe the cause of the random ABS error message is a high
resistance in the coil of the wheel sensor. It seems that small stones
get between the sensor barrel and the hub carrier. Over time the
winding develops high resistance and eventually opens completely.
Prior to opening the poor coil connection results in random low
voltage pulses and the resulting error signal. It would be reasonable
for the resistance to go up with higher temperature and explain the
observation you have made.
A possible explanation.
Bob
SS1,Mk1,MkX and XJS
Brattleboro, VT
From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 18:54:03 +0700
Subject: Re: Water and oil, backwards?
Bob wrote:
I found water in the oil pan (about 6 quarts)
and oil in the exhaust system. Sounds like something is backwards here.
HELP!
Bob, the news may be bad, it may be not so bad. Several problems can
cause these symptoms:
-
Blown or leaking headgasket - not so bad, you’ll install a new
one as part of the rebuild anyway. -
Cracked head (the car’s). - Bad. Big bucks, unless you can find
someone parting out your type of engine on the cheap. Fat chance.
You can usually see the crack, especially if it’s leaking water. If
you can’t see the crack, have the head Magnafluxed (if it’s a cast
iron head) or Zyglowed (if it’s an aluminum head). If no crack is
found, move on to possibility 3. -
Cracked block - Bad. Same inspection techniques as with a
cracked head.
I read an advertisement in Hemmings about a company that repairs
cracks in cast iron. I have not heard of any successes with this, so I remain
skeptical.
Good luck.
Greg
G. W. Price & Company, Ltd
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Probabilistic Record Linkage Services
Consultants in research, information management
and program evaluation
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 11:39:14
Subject: Re: Originality debate
Mark McChesney :
Could you see the Mercedes, Porsche or BMW lists even
mentioning a conversion?
Quite apart from any damaging admissions like “they don’t need to”, there’s a
big difference between them and us. Has it struck you that their clubs are
always “Xyz Owners’ Club” and ours are always “Jaguar Drivers’ Club”?
Obviously, drivers are more concerned with how a car drives, owners with how
it…er…owns. I bought my XJC from an “owner” - it was quite original,
spotless and shiny - but barely ran and would have failed a roadworthiness
inspection…
Don’t worry about offending me, Mark, that would take quite a lot and I’m
certainly not offended. I just tried to analyse and make clear the underlying
reasons why we act as we do. I have this childish belief that if we all
understand the difference between fact and opinion, and concede that everybody
has a right to hold (and express) any opinion, however unfounded, we’ll all get
along better.
It’s unfortunate that written communication doesn’t include tone of voice,
facial expression and gestures (though we can do without some gestures); this
often leads to misunderstandings. What we need is a character set with better
smileys…
:3+)
All the best, and may you find a good XJ to de-lump… Unfortunately, ours are
all RHD, otherwise it might be worth your while importing a terminal case from
Australia (I’ve seen a decent, original, road-registered S2 XJ12 for 5,000
Ozbucks (4,000 US) and an XJS body shell in good nick for 800).
- -Jan
From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 02:44:52 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: [SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve - SOLVED
Yesterday I wrote:
It’s amateur night!
I decided to adjust the idle speed of my 1986 Series III XJ6 4.2 tonight,
and went about the task with more brawn than brains.
Thanks to Richard Atherton and David J Shield for help and insights. Both
were spot on and helped me get things right again.
The accellerator pedal stuck simply because the butterfly valve was
closing completely and sticking against the housing. I readjusted the
butterfly valve according to specs and then had to readjust the idle
speed again because of the slightly increased airflow. I then checked the
throttle microswitch and found that it was working but it was also
misaligned. It stayed closed too long causing (as I understand it) the ECU
to go crazy: It’s trying to stabilize the idling speed in counteraction
to the drivers attempt to increase rpms. I adjusted it to open the
instant the throttle is starting to open.
I had a productive day today (took the day off from work and worked on the
car instead…), I managed to change all the brake pads, fix the
“Amsterdam-trip” leak in the exhaust and adjust the butterfly valve. Now
she’s almost as smooth as silk again, I just need to change that fan
coupling… (the car sounds almost like a plane taking off when above
1500rpm…)
You know, I actually love working on this car. It is so rewarding when
you get it right!
Gunnar
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar XJ6 4.2 Sovereign
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | Vicki who? What .sig virus?
From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 18:54:03 +0700
Subject: Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
I have an V12 E-type over here (in western germany) that has a lot
of problems but I and many of my fellow road users love it. (except
my “get rid of it” wife. Although she was greatful that I could
give her a lift this morning after her XJS failed to start ).
Anyway, anybody out there know what a whining noise emanating from
the gearbox is when the car is idling at the lights. (It’s quite
loud and obtrusive). I’m not talking about the usual ( old bus)
whine of the gears when driving. This noise ceases when you depress
the clutch and is not always present ( somewhat depending on the
weather ). I also noticed recently that the rear wheels turn when
the back is jacked up and the gearbox is not in gear. ( engine
running of course). You can stop the wheels by holding them quite
easily, but I wonder if this is normal.Be greatful for any tips on this,
Martin Gardiner,
Frankfurt, Germany
72 S3 E-Type roadster
89 XJS coupe
Martin,
I had a get-rid-of-it wife once. Got rid of it, though.
Though not an expert on E-types (or any other car, for that
matter), but having had (more than) my share of clutch/transmission
problems with british and other cars, three possible problems spring to
mind:
-
Clutch throwout bearing (noise usually appears when the clutch is
depressed, then disappears if you put the car in neutral and release
the clutch); -
Input shaft bushing/bearing in the flywheel (though usually a minor whine)
-
Worn input shaft bearing in the transmission housing (would make
sense if it disappears when the clutch is depressed, but should whine
all the time, not just at idle)
Hope this helps.
Greg.
G. W. Price & Company, Ltd
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Probabilistic Record Linkage Services
Consultants in research, information management
and program evaluation
From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 18:56:02 +0700
Subject: Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
I have an V12 E-type over here (in western germany) that has a lot
of problems but I and many of my fellow road users love it. (except
my “get rid of it” wife. Although she was greatful that I could
give her a lift this morning after her XJS failed to start ).
Anyway, anybody out there know what a whining noise emanating from
the gearbox is when the car is idling at the lights. (It’s quite
loud and obtrusive). I’m not talking about the usual ( old bus)
whine of the gears when driving. This noise ceases when you depress
the clutch and is not always present ( somewhat depending on the
weather ). I also noticed recently that the rear wheels turn when
the back is jacked up and the gearbox is not in gear. ( engine
running of course). You can stop the wheels by holding them quite
easily, but I wonder if this is normal.Be greatful for any tips on this,
Martin Gardiner,
Frankfurt, Germany
72 S3 E-Type roadster
89 XJS coupe
Martin,
I had a get-rid-of-it wife once. Got rid of her, though.
Though not an expert on E-types (or any other car, for that
matter), but having had (more than) my share of clutch/transmission
problems with british and other cars, three possible problems spring to
mind:
-
Clutch throwout bearing (noise usually appears when the clutch is
depressed, then disappears if you put the car in neutral and release
the clutch); -
Input shaft bushing/bearing in the flywheel (though usually a minor whine)
-
Worn input shaft bearing in the transmission housing (would make
sense if it disappears when the clutch is depressed, but should whine
all the time, not just at idle)
Hope this helps.
Greg.
G. W. Price & Company, Ltd
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Probabilistic Record Linkage Services
Consultants in research, information management
and program evaluation
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 14:14:05
Subject: Re: Lucas Relay standards (general interest)
The “Lucas” relays on both my XJs (late 70’s) are rebadged Bosch relays, so it
might be an idea to check if anone has any relay contacts (!) at Bosch.
-
- jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 14:21:36
Subject: Re: [SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve stop screw/nut
Gunnar Helliessen :
I’m really curious as to why this clearance has to be exactely 0.02 inches.
I’d guess that they want the butterfly just off the wall to prevent sticking in
the inevitable cruddy deposits, not to mention preventing wear of the throat,
and 0.002in (0.05mm) is simply the thinnest commonly available feeler gauge.
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 11:55:55
Subject: Re: Oh, no!
What’s that? Have you ben away, Kirby?
:3+)
Welcome back, anyway…
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 11:54:09
Subject: Re: I apologise for my English friends indiscressions
Yeah, Jim, it’s a bit like running to mummy, isn’t it - “see what the nasty man
did to me”. Well, I’m not going to kiss it and make it well; private
conversations are private , and we should all know what to do if we don’t
like the temperature in the kitchen…
:3+)
- -Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 14:14:05
Subject: Re: Lucas Relay standards (general interest)
The “Lucas” relays on both my XJs (late 70’s) are rebadged Bosch relays, so it
might be an idea to check if anone has any relay contacts (!) at Bosch.
-
- jan
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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 26 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 239
Re: [SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve stop screw/nut
XKE Sunvisors
Re: symbols/abbreviations
Re: Major Problems with XJS
Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
Re: Emissions testing in Minnesota, usa; ABS Failure light: '88 XJ40
Re: I apologise for my English friends indiscressions
Re: Water and oil, backwards?
Re: Lucas Relay standards (general interest)
Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
Re: [SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve stop screw/nut
Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
XKE Sunvisors
Re: Oh, no!
Re: symbols/abbreviations
Re: Originality debate
Re: Major Problems with XJS
Re: [SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve - SOLVED
Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
Re: Emissions testing in Minnesota, usa; ABS Failure light: '88 XJ40
Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 14:21:36
Subject: Re: [SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve stop screw/nut
Gunnar Helliessen :
I’m really curious as to why this clearance has to be exactely 0.02 inches.
I’d guess that they want the butterfly just off the wall to prevent sticking in
the inevitable cruddy deposits, not to mention preventing wear of the throat,
and 0.002in (0.05mm) is simply the thinnest commonly available feeler gauge.
-
- Jan
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 22:31:52 -0400
Subject: XKE Sunvisors
I just finished installing my new sunvisors from BAS (360 332-9302). As far
as I know, they are the only people making coupe sunvisors. Quality is
outstanding.
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 13:10:15
Subject: Re: symbols/abbreviations
And let’s not forget
= grin
= big grin
:3+) = me, peering over my granny glasses and, as always, smiling
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 13:17:05
Subject: Re: Major Problems with XJS
Did you check all oil passages in the block and crankshaft…? My first guess
would be that the passage from the gallery to the rear bearing is blocked.
-
- Jan
From: “Robert Johnson, D.Sc.” bjomejag@sover.net
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 22:17:29 -0500
Subject: Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
Morrismori@aol.com wrote:
(sorry for sending this message to majordomo first; hit the wrong button in
the address box)I have an V12 E-type over here (in western germany) that has a lot of
problems but I and many of my fellow road users love it. (except my “get rid
of it” wife. Although she was greatful that I could give her a lift this
morning after her XJS failed to start ).
Anyway, anybody out there know what a whining noise emanating from the
gearbox is when the car is idling at the lights. (It’s quite loud and
obtrusive)
It sounds like the throw out bearing. If so the noise will go away
when you pick off the clutch, as the thrust on the bearing only exists
when the clutch is depressed. It is common to have the sound change or
vanish by pumping the clutch.
Hope this helps,
Bob
MkVIII, E-Type, XJ50
From: “Robert Johnson, D.Sc.” bjomejag@sover.net
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 22:01:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Emissions testing in Minnesota, usa; ABS Failure light: '88 XJ40
Scott W. Phillips wrote:
One quick question: Not that it is unique, but I get mutiple and seemingly
random ABS failure messages. Has anyone noticed that their frequency and
duration has any corralation (sp?) to higher ambient air temps?
I believe the cause of the random ABS error message is a high
resistance in the coil of the wheel sensor. It seems that small stones
get between the sensor barrel and the hub carrier. Over time the
winding develops high resistance and eventually opens completely.
Prior to opening the poor coil connection results in random low
voltage pulses and the resulting error signal. It would be reasonable
for the resistance to go up with higher temperature and explain the
observation you have made.
A possible explanation.
Bob
SS1,Mk1,MkX and XJS
Brattleboro, VT
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 11:54:09
Subject: Re: I apologise for my English friends indiscressions
Yeah, Jim, it’s a bit like running to mummy, isn’t it - “see what the nasty man
did to me”. Well, I’m not going to kiss it and make it well; private
conversations are private , and we should all know what to do if we don’t
like the temperature in the kitchen…
:3+)
- -Jan
From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 18:54:03 +0700
Subject: Re: Water and oil, backwards?
Bob wrote:
I found water in the oil pan (about 6 quarts)
and oil in the exhaust system. Sounds like something is backwards here.
HELP!
Bob, the news may be bad, it may be not so bad. Several problems can
cause these symptoms:
-
Blown or leaking headgasket - not so bad, you’ll install a new
one as part of the rebuild anyway. -
Cracked head (the car’s). - Bad. Big bucks, unless you can find
someone parting out your type of engine on the cheap. Fat chance.
You can usually see the crack, especially if it’s leaking water. If
you can’t see the crack, have the head Magnafluxed (if it’s a cast
iron head) or Zyglowed (if it’s an aluminum head). If no crack is
found, move on to possibility 3. -
Cracked block - Bad. Same inspection techniques as with a
cracked head.
I read an advertisement in Hemmings about a company that repairs
cracks in cast iron. I have not heard of any successes with this, so I remain
skeptical.
Good luck.
Greg
G. W. Price & Company, Ltd
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Probabilistic Record Linkage Services
Consultants in research, information management
and program evaluation
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 14:14:05
Subject: Re: Lucas Relay standards (general interest)
The “Lucas” relays on both my XJs (late 70’s) are rebadged Bosch relays, so it
might be an idea to check if anone has any relay contacts (!) at Bosch.
-
- jan
From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 18:54:03 +0700
Subject: Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
I have an V12 E-type over here (in western germany) that has a lot
of problems but I and many of my fellow road users love it. (except
my “get rid of it” wife. Although she was greatful that I could
give her a lift this morning after her XJS failed to start ).
Anyway, anybody out there know what a whining noise emanating from
the gearbox is when the car is idling at the lights. (It’s quite
loud and obtrusive). I’m not talking about the usual ( old bus)
whine of the gears when driving. This noise ceases when you depress
the clutch and is not always present ( somewhat depending on the
weather ). I also noticed recently that the rear wheels turn when
the back is jacked up and the gearbox is not in gear. ( engine
running of course). You can stop the wheels by holding them quite
easily, but I wonder if this is normal.Be greatful for any tips on this,
Martin Gardiner,
Frankfurt, Germany
72 S3 E-Type roadster
89 XJS coupe
Martin,
I had a get-rid-of-it wife once. Got rid of it, though.
Though not an expert on E-types (or any other car, for that
matter), but having had (more than) my share of clutch/transmission
problems with british and other cars, three possible problems spring to
mind:
-
Clutch throwout bearing (noise usually appears when the clutch is
depressed, then disappears if you put the car in neutral and release
the clutch); -
Input shaft bushing/bearing in the flywheel (though usually a minor whine)
-
Worn input shaft bearing in the transmission housing (would make
sense if it disappears when the clutch is depressed, but should whine
all the time, not just at idle)
Hope this helps.
Greg.
G. W. Price & Company, Ltd
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Probabilistic Record Linkage Services
Consultants in research, information management
and program evaluation
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 14:21:36
Subject: Re: [SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve stop screw/nut
Gunnar Helliessen :
I’m really curious as to why this clearance has to be exactely 0.02 inches.
I’d guess that they want the butterfly just off the wall to prevent sticking in
the inevitable cruddy deposits, not to mention preventing wear of the throat,
and 0.002in (0.05mm) is simply the thinnest commonly available feeler gauge.
-
- Jan
From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 18:56:02 +0700
Subject: Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
I have an V12 E-type over here (in western germany) that has a lot
of problems but I and many of my fellow road users love it. (except
my “get rid of it” wife. Although she was greatful that I could
give her a lift this morning after her XJS failed to start ).
Anyway, anybody out there know what a whining noise emanating from
the gearbox is when the car is idling at the lights. (It’s quite
loud and obtrusive). I’m not talking about the usual ( old bus)
whine of the gears when driving. This noise ceases when you depress
the clutch and is not always present ( somewhat depending on the
weather ). I also noticed recently that the rear wheels turn when
the back is jacked up and the gearbox is not in gear. ( engine
running of course). You can stop the wheels by holding them quite
easily, but I wonder if this is normal.Be greatful for any tips on this,
Martin Gardiner,
Frankfurt, Germany
72 S3 E-Type roadster
89 XJS coupe
Martin,
I had a get-rid-of-it wife once. Got rid of her, though.
Though not an expert on E-types (or any other car, for that
matter), but having had (more than) my share of clutch/transmission
problems with british and other cars, three possible problems spring to
mind:
-
Clutch throwout bearing (noise usually appears when the clutch is
depressed, then disappears if you put the car in neutral and release
the clutch); -
Input shaft bushing/bearing in the flywheel (though usually a minor whine)
-
Worn input shaft bearing in the transmission housing (would make
sense if it disappears when the clutch is depressed, but should whine
all the time, not just at idle)
Hope this helps.
Greg.
G. W. Price & Company, Ltd
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Probabilistic Record Linkage Services
Consultants in research, information management
and program evaluation
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 22:31:52 -0400
Subject: XKE Sunvisors
I just finished installing my new sunvisors from BAS (360 332-9302). As far
as I know, they are the only people making coupe sunvisors. Quality is
outstanding.
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 11:55:55
Subject: Re: Oh, no!
What’s that? Have you ben away, Kirby?
:3+)
Welcome back, anyway…
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 13:10:15
Subject: Re: symbols/abbreviations
And let’s not forget
= grin
= big grin
:3+) = me, peering over my granny glasses and, as always, smiling
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 11:39:14
Subject: Re: Originality debate
Mark McChesney :
Could you see the Mercedes, Porsche or BMW lists even
mentioning a conversion?
Quite apart from any damaging admissions like “they don’t need to”, there’s a
big difference between them and us. Has it struck you that their clubs are
always “Xyz Owners’ Club” and ours are always “Jaguar Drivers’ Club”?
Obviously, drivers are more concerned with how a car drives, owners with how
it…er…owns. I bought my XJC from an “owner” - it was quite original,
spotless and shiny - but barely ran and would have failed a roadworthiness
inspection…
Don’t worry about offending me, Mark, that would take quite a lot and I’m
certainly not offended. I just tried to analyse and make clear the underlying
reasons why we act as we do. I have this childish belief that if we all
understand the difference between fact and opinion, and concede that everybody
has a right to hold (and express) any opinion, however unfounded, we’ll all get
along better.
It’s unfortunate that written communication doesn’t include tone of voice,
facial expression and gestures (though we can do without some gestures); this
often leads to misunderstandings. What we need is a character set with better
smileys…
:3+)
All the best, and may you find a good XJ to de-lump… Unfortunately, ours are
all RHD, otherwise it might be worth your while importing a terminal case from
Australia (I’ve seen a decent, original, road-registered S2 XJ12 for 5,000
Ozbucks (4,000 US) and an XJS body shell in good nick for 800).
- -Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 13:17:05
Subject: Re: Major Problems with XJS
Did you check all oil passages in the block and crankshaft…? My first guess
would be that the passage from the gallery to the rear bearing is blocked.
-
- Jan
From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 02:44:52 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: [SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve - SOLVED
Yesterday I wrote:
It’s amateur night!
I decided to adjust the idle speed of my 1986 Series III XJ6 4.2 tonight,
and went about the task with more brawn than brains.
Thanks to Richard Atherton and David J Shield for help and insights. Both
were spot on and helped me get things right again.
The accellerator pedal stuck simply because the butterfly valve was
closing completely and sticking against the housing. I readjusted the
butterfly valve according to specs and then had to readjust the idle
speed again because of the slightly increased airflow. I then checked the
throttle microswitch and found that it was working but it was also
misaligned. It stayed closed too long causing (as I understand it) the ECU
to go crazy: It’s trying to stabilize the idling speed in counteraction
to the drivers attempt to increase rpms. I adjusted it to open the
instant the throttle is starting to open.
I had a productive day today (took the day off from work and worked on the
car instead…), I managed to change all the brake pads, fix the
“Amsterdam-trip” leak in the exhaust and adjust the butterfly valve. Now
she’s almost as smooth as silk again, I just need to change that fan
coupling… (the car sounds almost like a plane taking off when above
1500rpm…)
You know, I actually love working on this car. It is so rewarding when
you get it right!
Gunnar
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar XJ6 4.2 Sovereign
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | Vicki who? What .sig virus?
From: “Robert Johnson, D.Sc.” bjomejag@sover.net
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 22:17:29 -0500
Subject: Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
Morrismori@aol.com wrote:
(sorry for sending this message to majordomo first; hit the wrong button in
the address box)I have an V12 E-type over here (in western germany) that has a lot of
problems but I and many of my fellow road users love it. (except my “get rid
of it” wife. Although she was greatful that I could give her a lift this
morning after her XJS failed to start ).
Anyway, anybody out there know what a whining noise emanating from the
gearbox is when the car is idling at the lights. (It’s quite loud and
obtrusive)
It sounds like the throw out bearing. If so the noise will go away
when you pick off the clutch, as the thrust on the bearing only exists
when the clutch is depressed. It is common to have the sound change or
vanish by pumping the clutch.
Hope this helps,
Bob
MkVIII, E-Type, XJ50
From: “Robert Johnson, D.Sc.” bjomejag@sover.net
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 22:01:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Emissions testing in Minnesota, usa; ABS Failure light: '88 XJ40
Scott W. Phillips wrote:
One quick question: Not that it is unique, but I get mutiple and seemingly
random ABS failure messages. Has anyone noticed that their frequency and
duration has any corralation (sp?) to higher ambient air temps?
I believe the cause of the random ABS error message is a high
resistance in the coil of the wheel sensor. It seems that small stones
get between the sensor barrel and the hub carrier. Over time the
winding develops high resistance and eventually opens completely.
Prior to opening the poor coil connection results in random low
voltage pulses and the resulting error signal. It would be reasonable
for the resistance to go up with higher temperature and explain the
observation you have made.
A possible explanation.
Bob
SS1,Mk1,MkX and XJS
Brattleboro, VT
From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 18:54:03 +0700
Subject: Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
I have an V12 E-type over here (in western germany) that has a lot
of problems but I and many of my fellow road users love it. (except
my “get rid of it” wife. Although she was greatful that I could
give her a lift this morning after her XJS failed to start ).
Anyway, anybody out there know what a whining noise emanating from
the gearbox is when the car is idling at the lights. (It’s quite
loud and obtrusive). I’m not talking about the usual ( old bus)
whine of the gears when driving. This noise ceases when you depress
the clutch and is not always present ( somewhat depending on the
weather ). I also noticed recently that the rear wheels turn when
the back is jacked up and the gearbox is not in gear. ( engine
running of course). You can stop the wheels by holding them quite
easily, but I wonder if this is normal.Be greatful for any tips on this,
Martin Gardiner,
Frankfurt, Germany
72 S3 E-Type roadster
89 XJS coupe
Martin,
I had a get-rid-of-it wife once. Got rid of it, though.
Though not an expert on E-types (or any other car, for that
matter), but having had (more than) my share of clutch/transmission
problems with british and other cars, three possible problems spring to
mind:
-
Clutch throwout bearing (noise usually appears when the clutch is
depressed, then disappears if you put the car in neutral and release
the clutch); -
Input shaft bushing/bearing in the flywheel (though usually a minor whine)
-
Worn input shaft bearing in the transmission housing (would make
sense if it disappears when the clutch is depressed, but should whine
all the time, not just at idle)
Hope this helps.
Greg.
G. W. Price & Company, Ltd
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Probabilistic Record Linkage Services
Consultants in research, information management
and program evaluation
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #239
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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 26 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 240
Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
Re: Oh, no!
Re: Retorquing XK cylinder heads
Re: Retorquing XK cylinder heads
Re: Water and oil, backwards?
Re: Originality debate
Re: Lucas Relay standards (general interest)
Re: [SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve - SOLVED
Re: [SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve stop screw/nut
Re: I apologise for my English friends indiscressions
XKE Sunvisors
Re: symbols/abbreviations
Re: Major Problems with XJS
Re: XJ-S FUEL INJECTOR NOISE
Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
Re: Emissions testing in Minnesota, usa; ABS Failure light: '88 XJ40
Re: Water and oil, backwards?
Re: I apologise for my English friends indiscressions
Re: XJ-S FUEL INJECTOR NOISE
Re: Retorquing XK cylinder heads
Re: Lucas Relay standards (general interest)
From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 18:56:02 +0700
Subject: Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
I have an V12 E-type over here (in western germany) that has a lot
of problems but I and many of my fellow road users love it. (except
my “get rid of it” wife. Although she was greatful that I could
give her a lift this morning after her XJS failed to start ).
Anyway, anybody out there know what a whining noise emanating from
the gearbox is when the car is idling at the lights. (It’s quite
loud and obtrusive). I’m not talking about the usual ( old bus)
whine of the gears when driving. This noise ceases when you depress
the clutch and is not always present ( somewhat depending on the
weather ). I also noticed recently that the rear wheels turn when
the back is jacked up and the gearbox is not in gear. ( engine
running of course). You can stop the wheels by holding them quite
easily, but I wonder if this is normal.Be greatful for any tips on this,
Martin Gardiner,
Frankfurt, Germany
72 S3 E-Type roadster
89 XJS coupe
Martin,
I had a get-rid-of-it wife once. Got rid of her, though.
Though not an expert on E-types (or any other car, for that
matter), but having had (more than) my share of clutch/transmission
problems with british and other cars, three possible problems spring to
mind:
-
Clutch throwout bearing (noise usually appears when the clutch is
depressed, then disappears if you put the car in neutral and release
the clutch); -
Input shaft bushing/bearing in the flywheel (though usually a minor whine)
-
Worn input shaft bearing in the transmission housing (would make
sense if it disappears when the clutch is depressed, but should whine
all the time, not just at idle)
Hope this helps.
Greg.
G. W. Price & Company, Ltd
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Probabilistic Record Linkage Services
Consultants in research, information management
and program evaluation
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 11:55:55
Subject: Re: Oh, no!
What’s that? Have you ben away, Kirby?
:3+)
Welcome back, anyway…
-
- Jan
From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 14:24:01 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: Retorquing XK cylinder heads
Patrick writes,
I once had a similar situation on my E-Type after replacing gaskets on
the banjo fittings etc. The leak got worse until I finally noticed a
hairline fatigue crack in the oil line where it is brazed into the banjo
fitting. It was extremely difficult to see at first as it was just along
the edge of the braze material. I found it by cleaning the engine and
then taping clean white tissue everywhere to locate the origin of the
oil. The good news was I could soft solder a patch on top of the hard
braze until obtaing a replacement.
I have already been through this and at one stage bought a replacement oil
feed line and new crush washers. I’m quite confident that this isn’t the
problem since there is no oil on the pipe or fittings whatsoever. Before I
cured the cam cover gasket problem (by not using a gasket), I used to get a
film of oil down the back of the head and all over the cam feed pipes.
The oil that I am noticing appears on the top LHS of the bell housing. Is
it possible that there is suffient oil leaking from the dip stick tube and
blown onto the bell housing to cause such a problem?
regards,
Robert
Robert Dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **
From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 14:24:01 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: Retorquing XK cylinder heads
Patrick writes,
I once had a similar situation on my E-Type after replacing gaskets on
the banjo fittings etc. The leak got worse until I finally noticed a
hairline fatigue crack in the oil line where it is brazed into the banjo
fitting. It was extremely difficult to see at first as it was just along
the edge of the braze material. I found it by cleaning the engine and
then taping clean white tissue everywhere to locate the origin of the
oil. The good news was I could soft solder a patch on top of the hard
braze until obtaing a replacement.
I have already been through this and at one stage bought a replacement oil
feed line and new crush washers. I’m quite confident that this isn’t the
problem since there is no oil on the pipe or fittings whatsoever. Before I
cured the cam cover gasket problem (by not using a gasket), I used to get a
film of oil down the back of the head and all over the cam feed pipes.
The oil that I am noticing appears on the top LHS of the bell housing. Is
it possible that there is suffient oil leaking from the dip stick tube and
blown onto the bell housing to cause such a problem?
regards,
Robert
Robert Dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **
From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 18:54:03 +0700
Subject: Re: Water and oil, backwards?
Bob wrote:
I found water in the oil pan (about 6 quarts)
and oil in the exhaust system. Sounds like something is backwards here.
HELP!
Bob, the news may be bad, it may be not so bad. Several problems can
cause these symptoms:
-
Blown or leaking headgasket - not so bad, you’ll install a new
one as part of the rebuild anyway. -
Cracked head (the car’s). - Bad. Big bucks, unless you can find
someone parting out your type of engine on the cheap. Fat chance.
You can usually see the crack, especially if it’s leaking water. If
you can’t see the crack, have the head Magnafluxed (if it’s a cast
iron head) or Zyglowed (if it’s an aluminum head). If no crack is
found, move on to possibility 3. -
Cracked block - Bad. Same inspection techniques as with a
cracked head.
I read an advertisement in Hemmings about a company that repairs
cracks in cast iron. I have not heard of any successes with this, so I remain
skeptical.
Good luck.
Greg
G. W. Price & Company, Ltd
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Probabilistic Record Linkage Services
Consultants in research, information management
and program evaluation
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 11:39:14
Subject: Re: Originality debate
Mark McChesney :
Could you see the Mercedes, Porsche or BMW lists even
mentioning a conversion?
Quite apart from any damaging admissions like “they don’t need to”, there’s a
big difference between them and us. Has it struck you that their clubs are
always “Xyz Owners’ Club” and ours are always “Jaguar Drivers’ Club”?
Obviously, drivers are more concerned with how a car drives, owners with how
it…er…owns. I bought my XJC from an “owner” - it was quite original,
spotless and shiny - but barely ran and would have failed a roadworthiness
inspection…
Don’t worry about offending me, Mark, that would take quite a lot and I’m
certainly not offended. I just tried to analyse and make clear the underlying
reasons why we act as we do. I have this childish belief that if we all
understand the difference between fact and opinion, and concede that everybody
has a right to hold (and express) any opinion, however unfounded, we’ll all get
along better.
It’s unfortunate that written communication doesn’t include tone of voice,
facial expression and gestures (though we can do without some gestures); this
often leads to misunderstandings. What we need is a character set with better
smileys…
:3+)
All the best, and may you find a good XJ to de-lump… Unfortunately, ours are
all RHD, otherwise it might be worth your while importing a terminal case from
Australia (I’ve seen a decent, original, road-registered S2 XJ12 for 5,000
Ozbucks (4,000 US) and an XJS body shell in good nick for 800).
- -Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 14:14:05
Subject: Re: Lucas Relay standards (general interest)
The “Lucas” relays on both my XJs (late 70’s) are rebadged Bosch relays, so it
might be an idea to check if anone has any relay contacts (!) at Bosch.
-
- jan
From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 02:44:52 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: [SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve - SOLVED
Yesterday I wrote:
It’s amateur night!
I decided to adjust the idle speed of my 1986 Series III XJ6 4.2 tonight,
and went about the task with more brawn than brains.
Thanks to Richard Atherton and David J Shield for help and insights. Both
were spot on and helped me get things right again.
The accellerator pedal stuck simply because the butterfly valve was
closing completely and sticking against the housing. I readjusted the
butterfly valve according to specs and then had to readjust the idle
speed again because of the slightly increased airflow. I then checked the
throttle microswitch and found that it was working but it was also
misaligned. It stayed closed too long causing (as I understand it) the ECU
to go crazy: It’s trying to stabilize the idling speed in counteraction
to the drivers attempt to increase rpms. I adjusted it to open the
instant the throttle is starting to open.
I had a productive day today (took the day off from work and worked on the
car instead…), I managed to change all the brake pads, fix the
“Amsterdam-trip” leak in the exhaust and adjust the butterfly valve. Now
she’s almost as smooth as silk again, I just need to change that fan
coupling… (the car sounds almost like a plane taking off when above
1500rpm…)
You know, I actually love working on this car. It is so rewarding when
you get it right!
Gunnar
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar XJ6 4.2 Sovereign
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | Vicki who? What .sig virus?
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 14:21:36
Subject: Re: [SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve stop screw/nut
Gunnar Helliessen :
I’m really curious as to why this clearance has to be exactely 0.02 inches.
I’d guess that they want the butterfly just off the wall to prevent sticking in
the inevitable cruddy deposits, not to mention preventing wear of the throat,
and 0.002in (0.05mm) is simply the thinnest commonly available feeler gauge.
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 11:54:09
Subject: Re: I apologise for my English friends indiscressions
Yeah, Jim, it’s a bit like running to mummy, isn’t it - “see what the nasty man
did to me”. Well, I’m not going to kiss it and make it well; private
conversations are private , and we should all know what to do if we don’t
like the temperature in the kitchen…
:3+)
- -Jan
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 22:31:52 -0400
Subject: XKE Sunvisors
I just finished installing my new sunvisors from BAS (360 332-9302). As far
as I know, they are the only people making coupe sunvisors. Quality is
outstanding.
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 13:10:15
Subject: Re: symbols/abbreviations
And let’s not forget
= grin
= big grin
:3+) = me, peering over my granny glasses and, as always, smiling
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 13:17:05
Subject: Re: Major Problems with XJS
Did you check all oil passages in the block and crankshaft…? My first guess
would be that the passage from the gallery to the rear bearing is blocked.
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 15:38:44
Subject: Re: XJ-S FUEL INJECTOR NOISE
Hi, Connie,
Out of the 24 injectors under my alleged care, 8 or 10 can be described as
noisy. Until the happy day when I get to take one apart, I can’t comment on the
cause - but I’ve never had any trouble with them. I suspect it’s simply some
noise-reducing item (rubber disk?) that dies of natural causes.
-
- Jan
From: “Robert Johnson, D.Sc.” bjomejag@sover.net
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 22:17:29 -0500
Subject: Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
Morrismori@aol.com wrote:
(sorry for sending this message to majordomo first; hit the wrong button in
the address box)I have an V12 E-type over here (in western germany) that has a lot of
problems but I and many of my fellow road users love it. (except my “get rid
of it” wife. Although she was greatful that I could give her a lift this
morning after her XJS failed to start ).
Anyway, anybody out there know what a whining noise emanating from the
gearbox is when the car is idling at the lights. (It’s quite loud and
obtrusive)
It sounds like the throw out bearing. If so the noise will go away
when you pick off the clutch, as the thrust on the bearing only exists
when the clutch is depressed. It is common to have the sound change or
vanish by pumping the clutch.
Hope this helps,
Bob
MkVIII, E-Type, XJ50
From: “Robert Johnson, D.Sc.” bjomejag@sover.net
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 22:01:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Emissions testing in Minnesota, usa; ABS Failure light: '88 XJ40
Scott W. Phillips wrote:
One quick question: Not that it is unique, but I get mutiple and seemingly
random ABS failure messages. Has anyone noticed that their frequency and
duration has any corralation (sp?) to higher ambient air temps?
I believe the cause of the random ABS error message is a high
resistance in the coil of the wheel sensor. It seems that small stones
get between the sensor barrel and the hub carrier. Over time the
winding develops high resistance and eventually opens completely.
Prior to opening the poor coil connection results in random low
voltage pulses and the resulting error signal. It would be reasonable
for the resistance to go up with higher temperature and explain the
observation you have made.
A possible explanation.
Bob
SS1,Mk1,MkX and XJS
Brattleboro, VT
From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 18:54:03 +0700
Subject: Re: Water and oil, backwards?
Bob wrote:
I found water in the oil pan (about 6 quarts)
and oil in the exhaust system. Sounds like something is backwards here.
HELP!
Bob, the news may be bad, it may be not so bad. Several problems can
cause these symptoms:
-
Blown or leaking headgasket - not so bad, you’ll install a new
one as part of the rebuild anyway. -
Cracked head (the car’s). - Bad. Big bucks, unless you can find
someone parting out your type of engine on the cheap. Fat chance.
You can usually see the crack, especially if it’s leaking water. If
you can’t see the crack, have the head Magnafluxed (if it’s a cast
iron head) or Zyglowed (if it’s an aluminum head). If no crack is
found, move on to possibility 3. -
Cracked block - Bad. Same inspection techniques as with a
cracked head.
I read an advertisement in Hemmings about a company that repairs
cracks in cast iron. I have not heard of any successes with this, so I remain
skeptical.
Good luck.
Greg
G. W. Price & Company, Ltd
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Probabilistic Record Linkage Services
Consultants in research, information management
and program evaluation
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 11:54:09
Subject: Re: I apologise for my English friends indiscressions
Yeah, Jim, it’s a bit like running to mummy, isn’t it - “see what the nasty man
did to me”. Well, I’m not going to kiss it and make it well; private
conversations are private , and we should all know what to do if we don’t
like the temperature in the kitchen…
:3+)
- -Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 15:38:44
Subject: Re: XJ-S FUEL INJECTOR NOISE
Hi, Connie,
Out of the 24 injectors under my alleged care, 8 or 10 can be described as
noisy. Until the happy day when I get to take one apart, I can’t comment on the
cause - but I’ve never had any trouble with them. I suspect it’s simply some
noise-reducing item (rubber disk?) that dies of natural causes.
-
- Jan
From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 14:24:01 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: Retorquing XK cylinder heads
Patrick writes,
I once had a similar situation on my E-Type after replacing gaskets on
the banjo fittings etc. The leak got worse until I finally noticed a
hairline fatigue crack in the oil line where it is brazed into the banjo
fitting. It was extremely difficult to see at first as it was just along
the edge of the braze material. I found it by cleaning the engine and
then taping clean white tissue everywhere to locate the origin of the
oil. The good news was I could soft solder a patch on top of the hard
braze until obtaing a replacement.
I have already been through this and at one stage bought a replacement oil
feed line and new crush washers. I’m quite confident that this isn’t the
problem since there is no oil on the pipe or fittings whatsoever. Before I
cured the cam cover gasket problem (by not using a gasket), I used to get a
film of oil down the back of the head and all over the cam feed pipes.
The oil that I am noticing appears on the top LHS of the bell housing. Is
it possible that there is suffient oil leaking from the dip stick tube and
blown onto the bell housing to cause such a problem?
regards,
Robert
Robert Dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 14:14:05
Subject: Re: Lucas Relay standards (general interest)
The “Lucas” relays on both my XJs (late 70’s) are rebadged Bosch relays, so it
might be an idea to check if anone has any relay contacts (!) at Bosch.
-
- jan
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #240
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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 26 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 241
Re: [SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve stop screw/nut
Re: Originality debate
Re: [SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve - SOLVED
XKE Sunvisors
Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
Re: XJ-S FUEL INJECTOR NOISE
Re: Retorquing XK cylinder heads
Re: Lucas Relay standards (general interest)
Re: [SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve stop screw/nut
Re: symbols/abbreviations
Re: Major Problems with XJS
XKE Sunvisors
Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
Re: Emissions testing in Minnesota, usa; ABS Failure light: '88 XJ40
Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
Re: Oh, no!
Re: Water and oil, backwards?
Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
Re: I apologise for my English friends indiscressions
Re: Originality debate
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 14:21:36
Subject: Re: [SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve stop screw/nut
Gunnar Helliessen :
I’m really curious as to why this clearance has to be exactely 0.02 inches.
I’d guess that they want the butterfly just off the wall to prevent sticking in
the inevitable cruddy deposits, not to mention preventing wear of the throat,
and 0.002in (0.05mm) is simply the thinnest commonly available feeler gauge.
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 11:39:14
Subject: Re: Originality debate
Mark McChesney :
Could you see the Mercedes, Porsche or BMW lists even
mentioning a conversion?
Quite apart from any damaging admissions like “they don’t need to”, there’s a
big difference between them and us. Has it struck you that their clubs are
always “Xyz Owners’ Club” and ours are always “Jaguar Drivers’ Club”?
Obviously, drivers are more concerned with how a car drives, owners with how
it…er…owns. I bought my XJC from an “owner” - it was quite original,
spotless and shiny - but barely ran and would have failed a roadworthiness
inspection…
Don’t worry about offending me, Mark, that would take quite a lot and I’m
certainly not offended. I just tried to analyse and make clear the underlying
reasons why we act as we do. I have this childish belief that if we all
understand the difference between fact and opinion, and concede that everybody
has a right to hold (and express) any opinion, however unfounded, we’ll all get
along better.
It’s unfortunate that written communication doesn’t include tone of voice,
facial expression and gestures (though we can do without some gestures); this
often leads to misunderstandings. What we need is a character set with better
smileys…
:3+)
All the best, and may you find a good XJ to de-lump… Unfortunately, ours are
all RHD, otherwise it might be worth your while importing a terminal case from
Australia (I’ve seen a decent, original, road-registered S2 XJ12 for 5,000
Ozbucks (4,000 US) and an XJS body shell in good nick for 800).
- -Jan
From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 02:44:52 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: [SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve - SOLVED
Yesterday I wrote:
It’s amateur night!
I decided to adjust the idle speed of my 1986 Series III XJ6 4.2 tonight,
and went about the task with more brawn than brains.
Thanks to Richard Atherton and David J Shield for help and insights. Both
were spot on and helped me get things right again.
The accellerator pedal stuck simply because the butterfly valve was
closing completely and sticking against the housing. I readjusted the
butterfly valve according to specs and then had to readjust the idle
speed again because of the slightly increased airflow. I then checked the
throttle microswitch and found that it was working but it was also
misaligned. It stayed closed too long causing (as I understand it) the ECU
to go crazy: It’s trying to stabilize the idling speed in counteraction
to the drivers attempt to increase rpms. I adjusted it to open the
instant the throttle is starting to open.
I had a productive day today (took the day off from work and worked on the
car instead…), I managed to change all the brake pads, fix the
“Amsterdam-trip” leak in the exhaust and adjust the butterfly valve. Now
she’s almost as smooth as silk again, I just need to change that fan
coupling… (the car sounds almost like a plane taking off when above
1500rpm…)
You know, I actually love working on this car. It is so rewarding when
you get it right!
Gunnar
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar XJ6 4.2 Sovereign
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | Vicki who? What .sig virus?
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 22:31:52 -0400
Subject: XKE Sunvisors
I just finished installing my new sunvisors from BAS (360 332-9302). As far
as I know, they are the only people making coupe sunvisors. Quality is
outstanding.
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 18:54:03 +0700
Subject: Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
I have an V12 E-type over here (in western germany) that has a lot
of problems but I and many of my fellow road users love it. (except
my “get rid of it” wife. Although she was greatful that I could
give her a lift this morning after her XJS failed to start ).
Anyway, anybody out there know what a whining noise emanating from
the gearbox is when the car is idling at the lights. (It’s quite
loud and obtrusive). I’m not talking about the usual ( old bus)
whine of the gears when driving. This noise ceases when you depress
the clutch and is not always present ( somewhat depending on the
weather ). I also noticed recently that the rear wheels turn when
the back is jacked up and the gearbox is not in gear. ( engine
running of course). You can stop the wheels by holding them quite
easily, but I wonder if this is normal.Be greatful for any tips on this,
Martin Gardiner,
Frankfurt, Germany
72 S3 E-Type roadster
89 XJS coupe
Martin,
I had a get-rid-of-it wife once. Got rid of it, though.
Though not an expert on E-types (or any other car, for that
matter), but having had (more than) my share of clutch/transmission
problems with british and other cars, three possible problems spring to
mind:
-
Clutch throwout bearing (noise usually appears when the clutch is
depressed, then disappears if you put the car in neutral and release
the clutch); -
Input shaft bushing/bearing in the flywheel (though usually a minor whine)
-
Worn input shaft bearing in the transmission housing (would make
sense if it disappears when the clutch is depressed, but should whine
all the time, not just at idle)
Hope this helps.
Greg.
G. W. Price & Company, Ltd
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Probabilistic Record Linkage Services
Consultants in research, information management
and program evaluation
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 15:38:44
Subject: Re: XJ-S FUEL INJECTOR NOISE
Hi, Connie,
Out of the 24 injectors under my alleged care, 8 or 10 can be described as
noisy. Until the happy day when I get to take one apart, I can’t comment on the
cause - but I’ve never had any trouble with them. I suspect it’s simply some
noise-reducing item (rubber disk?) that dies of natural causes.
-
- Jan
From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 14:24:01 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: Retorquing XK cylinder heads
Patrick writes,
I once had a similar situation on my E-Type after replacing gaskets on
the banjo fittings etc. The leak got worse until I finally noticed a
hairline fatigue crack in the oil line where it is brazed into the banjo
fitting. It was extremely difficult to see at first as it was just along
the edge of the braze material. I found it by cleaning the engine and
then taping clean white tissue everywhere to locate the origin of the
oil. The good news was I could soft solder a patch on top of the hard
braze until obtaing a replacement.
I have already been through this and at one stage bought a replacement oil
feed line and new crush washers. I’m quite confident that this isn’t the
problem since there is no oil on the pipe or fittings whatsoever. Before I
cured the cam cover gasket problem (by not using a gasket), I used to get a
film of oil down the back of the head and all over the cam feed pipes.
The oil that I am noticing appears on the top LHS of the bell housing. Is
it possible that there is suffient oil leaking from the dip stick tube and
blown onto the bell housing to cause such a problem?
regards,
Robert
Robert Dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 14:14:05
Subject: Re: Lucas Relay standards (general interest)
The “Lucas” relays on both my XJs (late 70’s) are rebadged Bosch relays, so it
might be an idea to check if anone has any relay contacts (!) at Bosch.
-
- jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 14:21:36
Subject: Re: [SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve stop screw/nut
Gunnar Helliessen :
I’m really curious as to why this clearance has to be exactely 0.02 inches.
I’d guess that they want the butterfly just off the wall to prevent sticking in
the inevitable cruddy deposits, not to mention preventing wear of the throat,
and 0.002in (0.05mm) is simply the thinnest commonly available feeler gauge.
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 13:10:15
Subject: Re: symbols/abbreviations
And let’s not forget
= grin
= big grin
:3+) = me, peering over my granny glasses and, as always, smiling
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 13:17:05
Subject: Re: Major Problems with XJS
Did you check all oil passages in the block and crankshaft…? My first guess
would be that the passage from the gallery to the rear bearing is blocked.
-
- Jan
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 22:31:52 -0400
Subject: XKE Sunvisors
I just finished installing my new sunvisors from BAS (360 332-9302). As far
as I know, they are the only people making coupe sunvisors. Quality is
outstanding.
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
From: “Robert Johnson, D.Sc.” bjomejag@sover.net
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 22:17:29 -0500
Subject: Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
Morrismori@aol.com wrote:
(sorry for sending this message to majordomo first; hit the wrong button in
the address box)I have an V12 E-type over here (in western germany) that has a lot of
problems but I and many of my fellow road users love it. (except my “get rid
of it” wife. Although she was greatful that I could give her a lift this
morning after her XJS failed to start ).
Anyway, anybody out there know what a whining noise emanating from the
gearbox is when the car is idling at the lights. (It’s quite loud and
obtrusive)
It sounds like the throw out bearing. If so the noise will go away
when you pick off the clutch, as the thrust on the bearing only exists
when the clutch is depressed. It is common to have the sound change or
vanish by pumping the clutch.
Hope this helps,
Bob
MkVIII, E-Type, XJ50
From: “Robert Johnson, D.Sc.” bjomejag@sover.net
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 22:01:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Emissions testing in Minnesota, usa; ABS Failure light: '88 XJ40
Scott W. Phillips wrote:
One quick question: Not that it is unique, but I get mutiple and seemingly
random ABS failure messages. Has anyone noticed that their frequency and
duration has any corralation (sp?) to higher ambient air temps?
I believe the cause of the random ABS error message is a high
resistance in the coil of the wheel sensor. It seems that small stones
get between the sensor barrel and the hub carrier. Over time the
winding develops high resistance and eventually opens completely.
Prior to opening the poor coil connection results in random low
voltage pulses and the resulting error signal. It would be reasonable
for the resistance to go up with higher temperature and explain the
observation you have made.
A possible explanation.
Bob
SS1,Mk1,MkX and XJS
Brattleboro, VT
From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 18:56:02 +0700
Subject: Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
I have an V12 E-type over here (in western germany) that has a lot
of problems but I and many of my fellow road users love it. (except
my “get rid of it” wife. Although she was greatful that I could
give her a lift this morning after her XJS failed to start ).
Anyway, anybody out there know what a whining noise emanating from
the gearbox is when the car is idling at the lights. (It’s quite
loud and obtrusive). I’m not talking about the usual ( old bus)
whine of the gears when driving. This noise ceases when you depress
the clutch and is not always present ( somewhat depending on the
weather ). I also noticed recently that the rear wheels turn when
the back is jacked up and the gearbox is not in gear. ( engine
running of course). You can stop the wheels by holding them quite
easily, but I wonder if this is normal.Be greatful for any tips on this,
Martin Gardiner,
Frankfurt, Germany
72 S3 E-Type roadster
89 XJS coupe
Martin,
I had a get-rid-of-it wife once. Got rid of her, though.
Though not an expert on E-types (or any other car, for that
matter), but having had (more than) my share of clutch/transmission
problems with british and other cars, three possible problems spring to
mind:
-
Clutch throwout bearing (noise usually appears when the clutch is
depressed, then disappears if you put the car in neutral and release
the clutch); -
Input shaft bushing/bearing in the flywheel (though usually a minor whine)
-
Worn input shaft bearing in the transmission housing (would make
sense if it disappears when the clutch is depressed, but should whine
all the time, not just at idle)
Hope this helps.
Greg.
G. W. Price & Company, Ltd
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Probabilistic Record Linkage Services
Consultants in research, information management
and program evaluation
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 11:55:55
Subject: Re: Oh, no!
What’s that? Have you ben away, Kirby?
:3+)
Welcome back, anyway…
-
- Jan
From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 18:54:03 +0700
Subject: Re: Water and oil, backwards?
Bob wrote:
I found water in the oil pan (about 6 quarts)
and oil in the exhaust system. Sounds like something is backwards here.
HELP!
Bob, the news may be bad, it may be not so bad. Several problems can
cause these symptoms:
-
Blown or leaking headgasket - not so bad, you’ll install a new
one as part of the rebuild anyway. -
Cracked head (the car’s). - Bad. Big bucks, unless you can find
someone parting out your type of engine on the cheap. Fat chance.
You can usually see the crack, especially if it’s leaking water. If
you can’t see the crack, have the head Magnafluxed (if it’s a cast
iron head) or Zyglowed (if it’s an aluminum head). If no crack is
found, move on to possibility 3. -
Cracked block - Bad. Same inspection techniques as with a
cracked head.
I read an advertisement in Hemmings about a company that repairs
cracks in cast iron. I have not heard of any successes with this, so I remain
skeptical.
Good luck.
Greg
G. W. Price & Company, Ltd
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Probabilistic Record Linkage Services
Consultants in research, information management
and program evaluation
From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 18:54:03 +0700
Subject: Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
I have an V12 E-type over here (in western germany) that has a lot
of problems but I and many of my fellow road users love it. (except
my “get rid of it” wife. Although she was greatful that I could
give her a lift this morning after her XJS failed to start ).
Anyway, anybody out there know what a whining noise emanating from
the gearbox is when the car is idling at the lights. (It’s quite
loud and obtrusive). I’m not talking about the usual ( old bus)
whine of the gears when driving. This noise ceases when you depress
the clutch and is not always present ( somewhat depending on the
weather ). I also noticed recently that the rear wheels turn when
the back is jacked up and the gearbox is not in gear. ( engine
running of course). You can stop the wheels by holding them quite
easily, but I wonder if this is normal.Be greatful for any tips on this,
Martin Gardiner,
Frankfurt, Germany
72 S3 E-Type roadster
89 XJS coupe
Martin,
I had a get-rid-of-it wife once. Got rid of it, though.
Though not an expert on E-types (or any other car, for that
matter), but having had (more than) my share of clutch/transmission
problems with british and other cars, three possible problems spring to
mind:
-
Clutch throwout bearing (noise usually appears when the clutch is
depressed, then disappears if you put the car in neutral and release
the clutch); -
Input shaft bushing/bearing in the flywheel (though usually a minor whine)
-
Worn input shaft bearing in the transmission housing (would make
sense if it disappears when the clutch is depressed, but should whine
all the time, not just at idle)
Hope this helps.
Greg.
G. W. Price & Company, Ltd
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Probabilistic Record Linkage Services
Consultants in research, information management
and program evaluation
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 11:54:09
Subject: Re: I apologise for my English friends indiscressions
Yeah, Jim, it’s a bit like running to mummy, isn’t it - “see what the nasty man
did to me”. Well, I’m not going to kiss it and make it well; private
conversations are private , and we should all know what to do if we don’t
like the temperature in the kitchen…
:3+)
- -Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 11:39:14
Subject: Re: Originality debate
Mark McChesney :
Could you see the Mercedes, Porsche or BMW lists even
mentioning a conversion?
Quite apart from any damaging admissions like “they don’t need to”, there’s a
big difference between them and us. Has it struck you that their clubs are
always “Xyz Owners’ Club” and ours are always “Jaguar Drivers’ Club”?
Obviously, drivers are more concerned with how a car drives, owners with how
it…er…owns. I bought my XJC from an “owner” - it was quite original,
spotless and shiny - but barely ran and would have failed a roadworthiness
inspection…
Don’t worry about offending me, Mark, that would take quite a lot and I’m
certainly not offended. I just tried to analyse and make clear the underlying
reasons why we act as we do. I have this childish belief that if we all
understand the difference between fact and opinion, and concede that everybody
has a right to hold (and express) any opinion, however unfounded, we’ll all get
along better.
It’s unfortunate that written communication doesn’t include tone of voice,
facial expression and gestures (though we can do without some gestures); this
often leads to misunderstandings. What we need is a character set with better
smileys…
:3+)
All the best, and may you find a good XJ to de-lump… Unfortunately, ours are
all RHD, otherwise it might be worth your while importing a terminal case from
Australia (I’ve seen a decent, original, road-registered S2 XJ12 for 5,000
Ozbucks (4,000 US) and an XJS body shell in good nick for 800).
- -Jan
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #241
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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 26 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 242
Re: [SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve - SOLVED
Re: Engine timing
XK120/140 or E-type?
Re: Radar Detectors
Re: XK8 in public
Re: MkII/Daimler scuttle vent
Re: msd ignition
Re: Radar Detectors
Hello
one more thing…
Re: Radar Detectors,
Re: I apologise for my English friends indiscressions
a/c clutch clearance
Re: XKE Sunvisors
not again…again…again…again…
XJ-S convertible bracing
XJ-S rear main bearing problems
Re: digest of advice on:leaks…leaks…leaks…those pesky lea
RE: The unleaded petrol debate
Jaguar translations
'70 XKE - Starter inhibit switch - where is it?
From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 02:44:52 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: [SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve - SOLVED
Yesterday I wrote:
It’s amateur night!
I decided to adjust the idle speed of my 1986 Series III XJ6 4.2 tonight,
and went about the task with more brawn than brains.
Thanks to Richard Atherton and David J Shield for help and insights. Both
were spot on and helped me get things right again.
The accellerator pedal stuck simply because the butterfly valve was
closing completely and sticking against the housing. I readjusted the
butterfly valve according to specs and then had to readjust the idle
speed again because of the slightly increased airflow. I then checked the
throttle microswitch and found that it was working but it was also
misaligned. It stayed closed too long causing (as I understand it) the ECU
to go crazy: It’s trying to stabilize the idling speed in counteraction
to the drivers attempt to increase rpms. I adjusted it to open the
instant the throttle is starting to open.
I had a productive day today (took the day off from work and worked on the
car instead…), I managed to change all the brake pads, fix the
“Amsterdam-trip” leak in the exhaust and adjust the butterfly valve. Now
she’s almost as smooth as silk again, I just need to change that fan
coupling… (the car sounds almost like a plane taking off when above
1500rpm…)
You know, I actually love working on this car. It is so rewarding when
you get it right!
Gunnar
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar XJ6 4.2 Sovereign
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | Vicki who? What .sig virus?
From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 17:41:05 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: Engine timing
A couple of weeks ago, Steve Coleman asked,
Today I checked and adjusted the timing on my 1987 XJ6 SIII for the
first time since I bought it in March this year (OK, it was the first
time I have adjusted the timing on any car). Anyway, using my inductive
timing light I adjusted the timing to 17 degrees BTDC, 800 RPM, vacuum
advance disconnected. The car seemed to run OK afterward, as it has
since I got it as a matter of fact. As I was later looking through the
shop manual I discovered that cylinder number one was the REAR cylinder,
not the forward one as I had assumed. So I went back and checked the
timing with the timing light connected to the rear plug wire rather than
the front one and the strobe indicated–17 degrees BTDC! I then checked
the timing with the strobe connected to each plug wire in turn and each
time got the same result–17 degrees BTDC. How can this be? Am I
misunderstanding some fundamental principle of engine timing, or do I
have a serious ignition problem here?
As someone else pointed out, the firing events of opposing cylinders (the
pairs which go up and down at the same time) are one complete revolution of
the crankshaft out of phase. Cylinders one and six, for example, fire at
the same crank angular position but on ever other revolution. A wasted spark
distributorless ignition system fires opposing cylinders together, twice as
often as necessary. The spark during the exhaust stroke on one of the
cylinders is ‘wasted’ but it means that you require half the number of
ignition coils and don’t require a cam or distributor trigger for control
timing.
The big question then is why did you also get the same result on the other
cylinders?
My guess is that your timing light pickup (I presume it has an inductive
clamp device that you secure around the appropriate lead) is a bit too
senstive and is detecting the ignition pulses from the ajoining leads. Try
moving the pickup to the sparkplug end of the leads away from neighbouring
leads. Alternatively, your leads may be cross coupling enough to trigger
the timing light, but not enough to fire the spark plug. I can assure you
that your engine would let you know if it was in fact firing 120 or 240
degrees out of sync.
Sorry about the late reply.
regards,
Robert
'74 Daimler 4.2 with distributorless ignition
Robert Dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **
From: Zoran Mitrovic 100136.3714@CompuServe.COM
Date: 26 Jul 96 03:42:27 EDT
Subject: XK120/140 or E-type?
Dear friends
I’m back to the list after some months of hard work.
The hard work was rewarding, so now I would like to make a dream true. Up to now
I own a XJ6, but now I would like to buy another classic Jaguar. My problem is
that nobody can have everything. I love the looks oh the XK120/140 AND the
E-type. (Both DHC or roadster).
I’ve seen many of them and I can not decide which is more desirable for me. But
I never had a chance to drive some of those cars. And that’s my question. HAs
somebody driven both or all three types? What is more enjoyable to drive?
I know that an XK is somewhat more expensive to buy. But how is it with the
reliability?
And last but not least, if you know some nice car of this type which can be
baught, please tell me.
Thank you and best regards Zoran Mitrovic
From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 11:19:41 GMT
Subject: Re: Radar Detectors
In message 199607240305.XAA17316@westnet.com Michael Frank writes:
The question is, did the Jag put out so much static that I was jamming
police radar?
Now THERE’S a thought. Anyone know what frequencies police radar operates
at ? Sourcing Gunn diodes and building resonators shouldn’t be too
difficult. Of course, building a unit that on detection of police
radar transmits a couple of watts ERP to jam it for a minute or so would
be strictly illegal in most jurisdictions, so don’t even think about it,
particularly if you are an electronics engineer.
If there are other EEs on the list, perhaps we could discuss in more detail
what not to do because doing it would result in such a jammer.
Regards,
Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 10:41:01 GMT
Subject: Re: XK8 in public
In message ECS9607221240G@venus.dur.ac.uk David Wood writes:
Impressions? Badly looked after.
[details snipped]
A friend of mine works for BMW (spit!) and often drives prototypes home for
the weekend. They always look run down, too. Maybe the XK8 you saw was
a prototype, too. LHD for a prototype would make sense, after all, the
US are their biggest export market.
Regards,
Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
From: ejt@wg.icl.co.uk (Ted Trim)
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 96 10:08:43 BST
Subject: Re: MkII/Daimler scuttle vent
David Brown asks about his scuttle vent…
I can’t
see any reason why the vent won’t close, but I can’t press it fully closed.Any ideas how I can look at the mechanism from the actual vent to the lever
behind the instrument panel ?
Almost certainly the hinge has siezed…on mine, it would neither completely
close or completely open. What had happened was that the hinge was rusted
solid and the hinge plates themselves were flexing - three sections of the
hinge were broken right through with fatigue.
This has to be one of the most difficult bits of the car to access - it’s
a very poor arrangement, not least because there’s no paint or anything in
this area!
You can see the hinge if you remove the whole centre console, instrument panel,
vent hoses etc from the area, and it helps if you unclip the wire harnesses
and remove the sound deadening felt - and then lie upside down beneath the
assembly…I also removed the outside flap assembly. Despite copious
application of easing oil there was no way it was going to free up. I
ended up drilling out the two rivets and 7 spot welds which secure the hinge
to the bulkhead - these are just accessible from the outside. I have just
completed reassembly…details to follow. I need to practise ascii art first!
Sorry to depress you but this is a real pain.
Go and oil your scuttle vent hinges, compact saloon owners!
Cheers,
Ted
1966 3.4 Mk with operating scuttle vent
From: Don Tracey dont@echuca.net.au
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 08:32:21 +1100
Subject: Re: msd ignition
From: “MarrioSD” marriosd@ccmail.apldbio.com
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 96 17:06:30 PDT
Subject: Re[2]: Coil change…Hi
MSD is an American company and can be contacted at Fax 915 857 3344.
The cost was about $150, it uses the existing points but draws so little current
that they should last indefinitely.Regards
Steve
MSD Company is on the net and will send out a catalogue ,free of
charge. Mine cost them $6 airmail to send it to AUS.Seem to be very
helpful.
http://www.msdignition.com/msdign.htm
DON TRACEY
AUSTRALIA.
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Jul 96 21:14:25
Subject: Re: Radar Detectors
Stefan Schulz :
Of course, building a unit that on detection of police radar transmits a couple
of watts ERP to jam it for a minute or so would be strictly illegal
And of course, a couple of kW would be even more illegal but so much more fun.
Aaah, the puffs of blue smoke rising behind the bushes as a Jaguar passes…
-
- Jan
From: “Mike Claus” claus@smtp.wg.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 96 08:25:26 EST
Subject: Hello
H1 there.
I am, at last, a Jaguar owner! After many years of yearning
and watching from the sidelines I have taken the plunge.
I am now the proud owner of a 1993 XJ-S Convertible. What a
beauty! Kingfisher blue with tan interior/roof. Very pretty
after-market pinstriping. Only 38K miles, all the service
records meticulously maintained. Owned (literally) by a little
old lady who kept it in a nice heated garage and never drove
it in inclement weather. Extended warranty to 7 years/ 100K
miles. I am one happy guy at the moment.
While I intend to drive the car regularly, I am planning on
keeping it nice. I own another car (a Toyota) so I won't need
to drive the Jag in winter or rain. (not much of either here
in temperate Raleigh, North Carolina). I purchased a cover so
I can keep it covered if I park in the blazing sun for long
periods. I'm not very mechanically minded, but I guess I am
prepared to pay the outrageous costs of performing the factory
recommended servicing at the local dealer. If any of you
folks can give me advice on how to keep this car as clean and
nice as possible - pass it along! Also, if you happen to know
of anybody in the local area who is actually qualified to
service the car and will work for less $$ than the dealer I
would like to hear about that too.
I am planning my first real trip next weekend. My wife and I
are planning an anniversary weekend away in the mountains -
about a 5 hour drive. Hope the weather is great.
I'm looking forward to hearing from you all and learning about
you cars and your experiences with them.
Regards,
- mclaus
From: “Mike Claus” claus@smtp.wg.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 96 08:37:22 EST
Subject: one more thing…
Hello again ....
I almost forgot something important.
I have a boot cover I can't use. It's a long story, but I
ended up with a boot cover that fits the newer XJ-S series -
1994 and newer with the back seat. I can't use it on my 1993
model. It's an original Jaguar part - heavy leather, fully
lined, and is in great shape. I have paid to have a boot
cover made up that I can use, so I would like to sell this one
to defray some of that cost. Is US $600 too much to ask? A
new one from Jaguar is about US $1275! If you or anyone you
know might be interested, please let me know.
BTW - why did they change the car and install that silly :)
back seat? No one can sit in it - way too small. The luggage
compartment is much more useful - in my opinion.
- mclaus
From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 10:46:03 GMT
Subject: Re: Radar Detectors,
In message 31F649BE.6029@phx.cox.com “Donald R. Farr” writes:
When I drive under some of our streetlights with my 91 Sovereign, they
dim and go out.
It is common for streetlights to have a vibration or motion detector and
associated circuitry which cuts the light’s electricity supply in case it
is hit by a car. This is useful to know if you’re fifteen, and the girl you’re
dating doesn’t want to be kissed goodbye for the night in front of her
parents’ house in case they see it. All you have to do is to kick the
light really hard about two feet up from the ground. It’ll go out for a
few minutes
Could be vibrations causing it in your case. How loud is your exhaust ?
Then there is my neighbors motion detector light for his back
yard…when I drive by in the Jag…it comes on. When I drive the BMW,
Olds or Mercedes past his drive…nothing happens.
Probably just a mark of respect More seriously, these detectors detect
objects which are a) moving and b) warmer than their surroundings. Jags
do run hot, other cars don’t always.
Regards,
Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
From: Alan Akeister 100705.3012@CompuServe.COM
Date: 26 Jul 96 10:07:34 EDT
Subject: Re: I apologise for my English friends indiscressions
Please do not apologise for me, I am big and old enough to do that myself :~)
(Smiley, just in case people still do not understand :~))
Luckily, Jan I have a big fan in the kitchen to remove the heat 8~)
If I have upset people, then I will apologise for that,
however, this debate had been held in public all the way through, (soapbox,
etc) and I felt that it was wrong to suddenly place that discussion in private.
Particulary the viscious nature of the comments. I did not post in private my
thoughts, which the mail was supposed to be about. I always feel that if you
put one face on to the public, you should have that face in private.
I will AGAIN say that the original posting that started this chain was not meant
to be alarmist, it was to bring to peoples attention what was being said (For
information) by a reputable newspaper (Followed incedentally by a article in the
Classic car magazine) and by a spokesperson from a leading oil company.
I Have been accused by people of then leaving comments set to be inflammatory,
these were ALL prefixed by a Smiley, however, some people do not seem to have
noticed this! the then comments sent to me on this subject in private I felt
were not the type of rational debate expected from members of this group.
However, again, if I have caused anyone upset, I do apologise,
but please,James, do not send such private postings or even public ones :~) if
you had not sent such a comment, I would not have posted it. If you
misinterpreted my previous comments, then I will apologise for that, however,
your first posting was less than civil :~)
Please, however, let’s now get over this, and get on to much more interesting
things associated with Jaguars, I did say I would not comment on this posting
again, but I do feel that a lot of the comments are incorrect.
Best regards (especially to my American friends :~) )
Alan Akeister
From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 11:17:28 GMT
Subject: a/c clutch clearance
In message 199607260914.LAA02454@turquoise.cray.com mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR) writes:
Is yours 0.5 mm ? Not sure what could go
wrong if you have the wrong clearance.
I believe 0.5mm is what the manual says, but the exact clearance is uncritical.
Mine needed tightening up by a competent a/c shop after a jag main dealer
overhauled the a/c and misadjusted the clearance to about 2mm, resulting
in really loud ‘clacks’ when the clutch engaged. If it engaged, it did miss
sometimes. No damage done, except that I got hot when driving
Regards,
Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 08:27:40 MDT
Subject: Re: XKE Sunvisors
Mike wrote:
I just finished installing my new sunvisors from BAS (360 332-9302). As far
as I know, they are the only people making coupe sunvisors. Quality is
outstanding.Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
Somehow this message made me remember an incident about 15 years ago
when I had my 63 E-type roadster. I was much youger then and drove
much faster. During one of my late afternoon 100+ Mph blasts down the
back-country roads here in Utah, one of my sun visors moved up into
the airstream. It was ripped off by the high speed air. My buddy
and I slowed down, turned around and went back to get it only to find
some old man by the road side mad as hell since he thought that we
had trown something at him. So, make sure that you either drive slow
Mike or tie your sun visors down !
Kind regards,
Jim Cantrell
76 XJ12C
76 XJ6C
Still dreaming about 63 E-type that I was dumb to
sell
From: “Richard King” kingr@sabc.co.za
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 16:27:44 +0200
Subject: not again…again…again…again…
Am I the only one receiving multiple copies…copies… copies… of
the digest… digest… digest… ???
From: BSherw@aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 10:31:10 -0400
Subject: XJ-S convertible bracing
Nick asked about chassis bracing for XJ-S cabriolet and conversion to full
convertible-
Nick- in Paul Skilleter’s “XJ-S Collector’s Guide” there are a couple of
pictures/drawings showing extra bracing (sheet-metal structure) added to the
major body pan in XJ-S convertibles; however, I don’t recall if anything was
shown re:cabriolet. I will look when I get home from work… :).
Brian Sherwood
'84 XJS, '85 XJ6
From: BSherw@aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 10:30:49 -0400
Subject: XJ-S rear main bearing problems
While you have the engine apart this time, I’d suggest you check the oil
supply to the rear main- make especially sure there are no obstructions in
the galley passages…
Brian Sherwood
From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 08:30:40 MDT
Subject: Re: digest of advice on:leaks…leaks…leaks…those pesky lea
dipstick tube in the engine bay. Both diagrams indicate that the tube is on
the driver side (left side of the car as you sit in it). The tube in my car
is located on the passanger side. Any significance to this ?
Yes, passengers are expected to check the tranny fluid during
refueling stops.
Kind regards,
Jim Cantrell
From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 10:53:06 GMT
Subject: RE: The unleaded petrol debate
In message 199607241732.TAA13802@ekeberg.sn.no Barrie Dawson writes:
I have discussed the unleaded issue with Jaguar Cars and several dealers/repairers
here in the UK. The general view is that although the XK engine was designed to run
on 100 octane rated fuel it will run on anything, after all it has been around a
very long time and has survived all sorts of user abuse.
Good for XK engine owners. What about the H.E. high compression UK spec
V12 ?
Regards,
Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 13:34:58 GMT
Subject: Jaguar translations
Just bought a five-litre can of Jaguar antifreeze. The German text on the
back label, translated back into English says: “Jaguar cooling systems
must only be filled with water.”
Translation services courtesy of Lucas, no doubt
Regards,
Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 96 07:57:00 PDT
Subject: '70 XKE - Starter inhibit switch - where is it?
Hi All,
I just bought a 1970 XKE 2+2 automatic from the original owner - I
have all the delivery papers etc. (list was $7,500, he bought it for
$6,500, 26 years later I bought it for $9,000). More about the
acquisition story later, but for now I have a problem. I'm going out
Saturday night, my fiance wants to go out in the 'new' car, this is
very cool, but last night it wouldn't start.
All the electrical (I should say *most* of the electrical) works OK,
the headlamps come on etc. and stay on while I turn the key, but there
is no click from a relay or noise from a starter or anything to
indicate the key has turned to start position other than the jingle of
the key chain.
Battery seems OK and the posts are secure. Just for drill I gave it
an overnight charge.
This seems consistent with a misadjusted starter inhibit switch - how
do I access this? What else could it be? I don't have a lot of time
to mess around this time, so any clues are welcome.
When I have photos I'll reveal my web site url.
Thanks and best regards,
David
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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 26 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 243
RE: The unleaded petrol debate
Re: Wire Wheel Cleaner
Water in the boot ('88XJ40)-- solved
Facts, Opinions
Re: '70 XKE - Starter inhibit switch - where is it?
Re: '70 XKE - Starter inhibit switch - where is it?
RE: The unleaded petrol debate
Re: not again…again…again…again…
RE: Build up boot gasket
Re: Facts, Opinions
XJS wheels or XJ6 wheels?
Re: XJ-S FUEL INJECTOR NOISE
Re: '70 XKE - Starter inhibit switch - where is it?
Any suggestions on an XJ engine swap?
Re: Facts, Opinions
72 2+2 Etype Control Knob Question
Re: Facts, Opinions
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 17:24:17 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: RE: The unleaded petrol debate
Good for XK engine owners. What about the H.E. high compression UK spec
V12 ?
I asked Jaguar France and they replied in written that I could use
unleaded fuel (XJ-S V12 '88 12.5:1). Not sure if they would replace
my engine if there would be a problem
-
- Matthias
From: bizmodel@prodigy.com (MR DAVID V KERNER)
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 11:37:56, -0500
Subject: Re: Wire Wheel Cleaner
- – [ From: David V. Kerner * EMC.Ver #2.10P ] –
I have also cleaned wire wheels in the bathtub, however, there is an
easier way. British Wire Wheel in Santa Cruz California makes their own
cleaning product. I think they will send you a sample. I believe a
gallon costs about $20.00 US. You just hose the wheels and then spray
the solution on, wait several minutes, no longer than five, and hose
off. Before discovering their product I used to use a wire wheel
cleaner made by a company called Eagle. That was a two bottle process
and it costs approximately $7.00 US for small bottles.
Cheers, Bud.
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 11:20:06 -0500
Subject: Water in the boot ('88XJ40)-- solved
FYI to anyone who has had mysterious water in their boot.
I thought I had done everything I could. Adjusted one top corner to meet
gasket, crawled inside and looked for light (at this point I lost all
remaining respect from my family members as to what constitutes proper
concern over my Jag), bondo-ed two pin-prick holes, tapped out and replaced
screw in license light, blasted gallons upon gallons of water from hose all
over…couldn’t figure it out as it continued to happen only in rain.
Then I left the boot open and poured water down the “channel” between the
body and the gasket to see where it all went and low and behold there it
was. At the left hand bottom corner of the rubber gasket was a low point
where the water – only when running slowly would creap over the gasket and
leak into the boot.
Paper toweling is now absorbing any water as I have yet to figure a way to
build up that small area of gasket without replacing whole thing, which is
in great shape otherwise (possibly some silicone caulk?).
Thought I’d post to help any others if anyone has had this problem and to
see if anyone had an idea of how to build up only one area on a gasket.
Have a great weekend all – may your touring be heavenly…your brews
cold…and the women hot.
Scott ‘still no a/c’ Phillips
'88 XJ40
Minnesota,usa
From: DavidZ333@aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 12:30:05 -0400
Subject: Facts, Opinions
Please forgive me if you feel this should be a private E to Jan - I
understand how one might legitimately arguye that. However, Jan’s message
was toall and so mine. Thank you :
As Jan states, I too am extremely interested in understanding human and other
behavior. I too believe that if we all understand the difference between
fact and opinion ( and learn even the most basic of thinking skills which is
generally absent in American society and getting worse ) we will all be
better off and get along better.
However, I most emphatically disagree with Jan’s notion that any opinion,
“however unfounded” should be tolerated - my words there. An opinion without
a sound basis is not only worthless except by accident, but it should not be
considered an opinion and should not be tolerated as legitimate. It is
rather a wish, a gut feeling, and most often a raw prejudice. I believe that
there is such a thing as objective truth and that it can be found, but truth
ain’t anything one wants it to be.
Jan and anyone else who is sincerely interested in fact and well based and
considered opinion and has a willingness to accept and be content with fact
as well as we are able to determine it, may I suggest either joining one or
both of the two major Skeptics orgagizations in the states or at least to
read their publications. ( By the way, many people who are seemingly afraid
of the truth or the rational search for it commonly misdefine Skepticism -
not you though. )
I am proud to be a Skeptic despite the hatred often directed to me and other
Skeptics. Many people do not want their cherished beliefs and biases
questioned let alone sometimes shown to be utterly vacuous.
This will sound dramatic I know, but it is literally true. For me my
connection and communication with the rationality of the Skeptics community
has literally saved my life.
We can exchange well reasoned opinions having to do with the appropriateness
of Chevy powered Jaguars and still respect each others position when there is
sound reasoning at its heart.
However, if you tell me that in your opinion and belief Jesus appeared to you
and spoke to you from an image in an oil spill, I will demand evidence and
use of the scientific method, the only manner of truth seeking that has been
shown to work for all of its sometimes stummblings along the way.
Jan and those who are forgiving me this lengthy message, IMHO, I believe it
can be argued very well indeed that to tolerate unfounded “opinion” and to
thereby give it legitimacy is to provoke the destruction, ultimately, of our
very planet. Believing something does not make it true. It isn’t that easy.
To believe that this planet can be raped and pillaged and trashed for limited
personal gain because the end of the world will come c. the year 2000 anyway
( A belief held and preached by James Watt, Ronald Reagan’s Secretary of the
Interior ) is not one I am able to accept no matter how hard some folks may
believe it. Where is your evidence? Just show me your evidence, not your
belief and not your hope and wish, but your evidence. One might justly
dislike and fear the various uses of science, but it is all we have that
works in finding truth.
Jan and others who express or hold similar views about fact, popular myth (
which our society lives on it would seem), and opinion may find Skeptics
organizations, publications, and thought to be enlightening, extremely
interesting, and most stimulating.
Again, I will accept as legitimate some arguments against using this forum
for the above. I do sincerely apologize again. However, IMHO, all things
are connected ( chaos theory?) - they are for me - and so I was pleased to
read Jan’s comment and to read of Mark’s personal conflict re his Jaguar.
Finally, Jan and others, re the “other car clubs” being “owners” clubs rather
than “drivers” clubs, may I respectfully remind you of the comments expressed
in this forum that focused not on driving Jaguars but rather on their
function as a supposed status symbol.
My wife and other folks I know delight in the notion of our having an
unrestored but mechanically sound ( until last Friday) XK120 because it
does not carry with it the dramatic ostentatiousness of a 100 point 120. (
On the other hand, any 120 no matter how rough is an aesthetic delight from only a few yards away - IMHO) An aside : You know of course that many of the Pebble Beach cars do not run. That’s a fact not an opinion and not in itself a value judgment. What do you think? Do these non running million dollar cars fit your personal definition of toy? Thanks for listening and understanding my need to respond as I have. Davidz Pax From: Steve Patchel spatchel@radford.com Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 09:28:36 -0700 Subject: Re: '70 XKE - Starter inhibit switch - where is it? David: I’m new to the list (just got a 70 E Type) and am not an expert on the car. I have however owned an MG for over 25 years and am some what familiar with the “interesting electrical problems” associated with Lucas systems. The problem you raised regarding the car not starting was reported to me by the previous owner. He stated that if the car sat for more than a week, it would not start despite the fact that the battery was fully charged. He simply jumped the battery from another car and the E started immediately with no further problems unless he let the car sit for the magical 2 weeks. He never bothered to investigate why this problem occurred, consequently I too am interested in how you resolve the problem. Sorry can’t be more help Stephen Patchel Consulting Practice Leader Radford Associates voice: 408-321-2540 fax: 408-321-2650 From: hdrsons@iamerica.net (Hal Rogers) Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 12:00:13 -0600 Subject: Re: '70 XKE - Starter inhibit switch - where is it? At 07:57 AM 7/26/96 PDT, David J Shield wrote:
Hi All, I just bought a 1970 XKE 2+2 automatic from the original owner - I have all the delivery papers etc. (list was $7,500, he bought it for $6,500, 26 years later I bought it for $9,000). More about the acquisition story later, but for now I have a problem. I'm going out Saturday night, my fiance wants to go out in the 'new' car, this is very cool, but last night it wouldn't start. All the electrical (I should say *most* of the electrical) works OK, the headlamps come on etc. and stay on while I turn the key, but there is no click from a relay or noise from a starter or anything to indicate the key has turned to start position other than the jingle of the key chain.
If the ignition switch/ key etc is in the dash, then they have a habit of
coming loose, displacing the wires at the back. Otherwise, it could be a
relay, wiring problem, or even maybe a starter. Good luck in your search.
Regards,
Hal
Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
Import Auto Specialists
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax
Serving Auto Enthusiasts since 1959
From: dlfreeman@ipa.net (Dave & Linda Freeman)
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 11:45:46 -0500
Subject: RE: The unleaded petrol debate
In message 199607241732.TAA13802@ekeberg.sn.no Barrie Dawson writes:
I have discussed the unleaded issue with Jaguar Cars and several
dealers/repairers
here in the UK. The general view is that although the XK engine was
designed to run
on 100 octane rated fuel it will run on anything, after all it has been
around a
very long time and has survived all sorts of user abuse.Good for XK engine owners. What about the H.E. high compression UK spec
V12 ?Regards,
Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
I was just reading an article this morning regarding our currently
available gas (US) and it’s effect on older cars. Our current 93 octane
((RON+MON)/2) is about equivalent to a RON of 101-104. This should be good
enough for a well tuned engine with a compression ration up to 11:1.
However if you are worried about exhaust valve seat recession(EVSR) there
are a number of over the counter additives sold under such names as
ValveTect, Valve Pro, Valve Guard etc. Another is Bardahl’s Instead-O-Lead
which contains a manganeses-based additive called MMT and in addition to
valve protection will raise the octane about 2 points. All the products
are reasonable effective at preventing EVSR. The above comments are
paraphrased quotes from Robert E. Reynolds who has 25 years experience in
the petroleum industry and is a member of several industry advisory
committees. He is the author of the “Changes in Gasoline” manual series
which has a circulation of more than 500,000 copies.
Dave and Linda Freeman
Living the Good Life
From: dlfreeman@ipa.net (Dave & Linda Freeman)
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 11:45:51 -0500
Subject: Re: not again…again…again…again…
Am I the only one receiving multiple copies…copies… copies… of
the digest… digest… digest… ???
Of course your not!! One would hope that someone could find the underlying
cause of this problem and fix it once and for all. It is very difficult to
follow a thread when the list behaves like this.
Dave and Linda Freeman
Living the Good Life
From: “Lauren E. Pratt” pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 96 11:51:58 PDT
Subject: RE: Build up boot gasket
Scott
For your boot leak problem, can you lift the gasket in the
corner where it is leaking and build up under the gasket
with a sponge rubber material, holding the assembly in place
with silicon caulk? This way the built up section will not show
and the boot lid can be closed right away with out getting caulk
on the lid. Be sure to taper the ends of the added material so
there will not be a step change in thickness.
Cheers Lauren
Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 7/26/96
Time: 11:51:58 AM
This message was sent by Chameleon
From: dlfreeman@ipa.net (Dave & Linda Freeman)
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 13:06:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Facts, Opinions
An aside : You know of course that many of the Pebble Beach cars do not run.
That’s a fact not an opinion and not in itself a value judgment. What do
you think? Do these non running million dollar cars fit your personal
definition of toy?Thanks for listening and understanding my need to respond as I have.
Davidz Pax
Are you sure of your fact. The last time I attended the Pebble Beach
Concours all entrants were required to start their engines during the
judging. If they were so fortunate as to win a trophy they were required
to drive onto the presentation stand. Have things changed since then??
Dave and Linda Freeman
Living the Good Life
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 14:49:31 -0500
Subject: XJS wheels or XJ6 wheels?
Ok, the project is underway. maybe. We are still ironing out the money side
of it, but I have found a transplanr car for my wrecked donor.
I need some answers. I would like esthetic responses only. I know it wont
be orriginal, but I dont want to debate that.
The transplant car has XJS wheels on it. My first inpression is that all
that chrome is guady. They look like new, But the orriginal alloy wheels
on my '82 are a bit tatty, expecialy the one that got hit in the accident.
Should I keep the old alloy wheels or go with the new XJS wheels?
Answers based just on your esthetic feelings only please. If you want to
fight the orriginality fight please post privately to thedevil@hell.com
Jim
===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"
John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 13:05:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: XJ-S FUEL INJECTOR NOISE
On the noise issue, I just replaced all of the injector seals and rubber mounts (don’t forget the little O-rings that go on the outside of the molded plastic inserts that mate with the manifold!) My injectors are now really quiet! I needed these on a Sunday for unplanned repair, so found them at a Bosch injection parts supplier (to the VW/Porsche/BMW markets). FWIW, I just had the most annoying experience with my injectors! (85 XJ-6 III). While repairing and replacing my engine wiring harnesses, which had decided to merge with each other, I decided to replace the fuel lines at the distribution rail, as they were leaking, even when I tightened the clamps. I bought real Jag hose. Maybe it was on the shelf for 10 years, or maybe Jag has special hose installation jigs, but I could not get that 7mm hose onto the injectors or fuel rail to save my life! I tried using a heat gun to soften it up, this actually worked somewhat. After removing the injectors from the car, (I thought maybe I could succeed if I installed them one at a time), it occurred to me that I really didn’t have to use Jag hose, so I bought 5/15" (7.9mm) SAE fuel injection hose, which slides right on. I sure wish I’d been lazy and bought the domestic hose in the first place!!! Hunt At 03:38 PM 7/26/96, Jan Wikstroem wrote:
Hi, Connie,
Out of the 24 injectors under my alleged care, 8 or 10 can be described as
noisy. Until the happy day when I get to take one apart, I can’t comment on
the
cause - but I’ve never had any trouble with them. I suspect it’s simply some
noise-reducing item (rubber disk?) that dies of natural causes.
- Jan
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 13:05:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: '70 XKE - Starter inhibit switch - where is it?
David-
My S-III XJ-6 does this when the shift lever is pushed all the way towards
the dash. Pulling back to the “P” stop clears it for me, so I haven’t taken
the time to look further. BTW, when I bought my XJ-6, until I located and
cleaned all of the fuse holders, electrically it was a bit on the
eccentric side! Congrats on the new toy! (Hey- mine are both toys! ).
Best-
Hunt
At 07:57 AM 7/26/96 PDT, David J Shield wrote:
Hi All, I just bought a 1970 XKE 2+2 automatic from the original owner - I have all the delivery papers etc. (list was $7,500, he bought it for $6,500, 26 years later I bought it for $9,000). More about the acquisition story later, but for now I have a problem. I'm going out Saturday night, my fiance wants to go out in the 'new' car, this is very cool, but last night it wouldn't start. All the electrical (I should say *most* of the electrical) works OK, the headlamps come on etc. and stay on while I turn the key, but there is no click from a relay or noise from a starter or anything to indicate the key has turned to start position other than the jingle of the key chain. Battery seems OK and the posts are secure. Just for drill I gave it an overnight charge. This seems consistent with a misadjusted starter inhibit switch - how do I access this? What else could it be? I don't have a lot of time to mess around this time, so any clues are welcome. When I have photos I'll reveal my web site url. Thanks and best regards, David
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 15:34:58 -0500
Subject: Any suggestions on an XJ engine swap?
Anyone have the flat rate numbers on replaceing Rod and Mains if the engine
is already out of the car on the garage floor?
Can the pistons be pulled out the bottom without removing the head?
(Probably not advisable since there could very well be a ridge that needs to
be reamed before new rings are fitted anyway.)
How about flat rate on rings when the engine is out of the car?
The old engine I am transplanting into my new car is running perfectly but
it has 115,000 miles on it and it occured to me that I should do anything
that I could that would be easy and benificial while the engine is on the
floor of the garage. But I also subscribe to the old addage “If it ain’t
broke, dont fix it.”
I intend to detail the engine compartment while the engines are being swapped.
Any other suggestions for what to do while the engine is on the floor?
Jim
===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"
John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: dlfreeman%ipa.net@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil (Dave & Linda Freeman)
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 13:06:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Facts, Opinions
As a matter of fact, this is still correct:
<Are you sure of your fact. The last time I attended the Pebble Beach
<Concours all entrants were required to start their engines during the
<judging. If they were so fortunate as to win a trophy they were required
<to drive onto the presentation stand. Have things changed since then??
The owners pour about a gallon in them to start them, more than once a car
has not been able to climb the slope to the platform for one reason or another,
usually fuel related. It makes for many chuckles from the crowd and much embar-
rasment to the owner.
LLoyd
From: jman@anchor.cs.colorado.edu
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 15:02:11 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: 72 2+2 Etype Control Knob Question
Hello again:
Last time I posted, I asked about how to replace my headliner.
Thanks to all those who responded. Based on the comments I received,
I decided to go the route of having someone else do it for me.
Labor cost ended up being $120 which seemed like a deal to me.
I bought the headliner material from Terrys Jaguar for $180, which
seemed like too much, but it was exactly the same as the original
headliner material which is what I wanted.
Now, on to the next question. There is a control knob located on
the left side of the center console on the drivers side. Below
where you right knee would be if you were driving. Anyone out
there know what this control operates? None of the books I have
metion it. The control appears to operate a variable resistor, and
has two wires connected to it.
1972 2+2 Etype V12 (Auto with Air)
1965 Suzuki S32-2
1986 BMW R80
Thanks in Advance
Jim Mankovich
jman@cs.colorado.edu or jman@convex.com
Technical Consulting Engineer http://www.cs.colorado.edu/~jman/Home.html
Hewlett-Packard Company University of Colorado at Boulder
Convex Technology Center ECOT 7-7 Engineering Center
Richardson, TX Campus Box 430
Boulder, Colorado 80309-0430
Phone 303-492-2757
Fax 303-492-2844
From: zavadsky@austin.ibm.com (Vlad Zavadsky)
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 16:10:20 -0500
Subject: Re: Facts, Opinions
davidz wrote:
Finally, Jan and others, re the “other car clubs” being “owners” clubs rather
than “drivers” clubs, may I respectfully remind you of the comments expressed
in this forum that focused not on driving Jaguars but rather on their
function as a supposed status symbol.
status symbol… come on, most of Jaguars on this list worth less than
a new Ford Taurus, and many don’t even reach the level of an Escort.
Anyone working for McDonalds can afford to buy a used Jag. Maintaining it,
however, is a different story. Is this why people are so much against
chevy-lump? Is insisting on all original parts a way to keep any Joe
from owning a Jag? Admittingly, slightly elitist, but I like the approach.
To me, Jaguar is a pleasant way to waste money (and enjoy the process!!)
Vlad
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #243
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jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 27 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 244
Thanks
Status symbols
NGK Spark Plugs XJ6 S3
Re: XJ Engine Swap
Replacement for Refrigerant R12 & R134A
Re: '70 XKE - Starter inhibit switch - where is it?
Re:Starter inhibit switch
XKE Sunvisors
CD-Changer installation in 87 XJ-6!
1987 Xj-6 CD-Changer installation – second attempt…
brake issue
Fuel Odours
PLEASE, try to use less bandwith for small talk…
Re: [SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve stop screw/nut
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 18:54:01 -0400
Subject: Thanks
Now that my wife and I have returned from my trip to New Zealand and
Australia, I’d like to express my appreciation to all those jag-lovers who
helped along the way:
John Milne and his family in Christchurch, NZ, whom we imposed on entirely
too much (three days!) but they made us feel sooo welcome;
John McDonagh and family, also of Christchurch at the time but scheduled to
travel to the UK and then Wisconsin shortly after our visit. John drove us
around the Jaguar-related sights of Christchurch and then managed to arrange
an impromptu meeting of the local Jaguar club, which blew me away – more on
that later;
Robert Dingli and his new bride, who showed us around Melbourne as well as a
tour of the lab where Dingli does research;
Don Tracey and his family, who took us to a local car club meeting in
Echuca, Victoria;
Alan Beale and his wife, whom we spent a pleasant evening with in Brisbane;
Tony Watts, Colin Graham, and the rest of the Jaguar Drivers Club of
Queensland whose meeting we attended;
Jan Wikstrom and his wife, who put us up and put up with us when we got to
the Sydney area – and let me test out his wonderful XJC 5.3;
And John Elmgreen, whom we actually didn’t get to visit (sorry) but who
helped us find out what was going on locally in Sydney over the phone.
After our visit with the Rocky Mountain Jaguar Club as well as these visits,
we have come to the conclusion that Jaguar owners tend to be really superb
people. Thanks to all.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: DavidZ333@aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 18:56:31 -0400
Subject: Status symbols
Vlad:
status symbol… come on, most of Jaguars on this list worth >less than
a new Ford Taurus, and many don’t even reach the level of an >Escort.
Price then = status?
Anyone working for McDonalds can afford to buy a used Jag.
Then why do they all drive new Camaros? Or is it just the managers?
Is insisting on all original parts a way to keep any Joe
from owning a Jag? Admittingly, slightly elitist, but I like >the approach.
Slightly eletist - yes. Interesting approach.
To me, Jaguar is a pleasant way to waste money (and enjoy the process!!)
Seriously, Vlad, what precisely is the nature of the waste you revel in? Is
spend and waste the same, how different ?
Davidz
From: Kyle Chatman kchatman@mail.coin.missouri.edu
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 19:28:37 -0500
Subject: NGK Spark Plugs XJ6 S3
Quick question – I was given BP5ES NGK spark plugs. Was that correct? =
The parts man seemed to have some trouble crossing to the Champion N12Y =
listing. I had also read that the XJS takes BPR6EFS plugs. TIA
From: Kroppe kroppe@mich.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 22:35:18 -0400
Subject: Re: XJ Engine Swap
JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell) wrote:
Any other suggestions for what to do while the engine is on the floor?
Replace:
- Oil pump
- Water pump
- Main bearings
- Thrust washers
- Con rod bearings
All of the above can be replaced from the bottom of the engine, except the water pump
which can be attacked from the front. If you want to remove the cylinder head, then
you’re in a position to pretty much replace everything. None of it is difficult to
remove/replace, it’s just the amount of time it takes to do it. When dismantling an
engine, you need zen-like concentration and don’t forget to label EVERYTHING with
tags/baggies and solvent-resistant ink (ball point works well for me).
My '82 4.2L motor is presently 100% dismantled (core plugs too) and I am almost ready
to place a huge parts order and begin the assembly sequence. The trickiest part I’ve
come across is the myriad of little bits comprising the timing apparatus. Other
than that, it’s pretty simple. It was amazing to see that there was NO ridge in my
bores and the motor has 96k miles on it. I would fathom it was a moderately well
maintained motor, but nothing special.
Good luck with the swap.
B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6
From: “George W. Cohn” gwcohn@azstarnet.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 19:57:58 -0700
Subject: Replacement for Refrigerant R12 & R134A
Since there seems to be an interest here in how to keep those older Jaguar air
conditioners working, I thought I’d pass on some info I have. Freon R12 is now selling
in the USA for $600 to $1,000 per 30 lb container! This is because it’s manufacture was
banned as of Dec. 31, 1995. There has been some info on this service about a product
called FR12 distributed by Pennzoil Corporation. I recently saw some first hand
results of another product called HOT SHOT-A from ICOR International.
The HVAC guy where I work wanted to try this product as it is supposed to be a
drop in replacement for both R12 and R134A as well as costing only $250 per 25 pound
container. He installed it in an icemaker that he had replaced the compressor in.
After several days, he had to readjust the ice maker as it was producing more cold than
before!
Here's what the manufacturers literature says: No retrofitting, no oil changes.
Just recover the old refrigerant and recharge the system with HOT SHOT-A. They claim
it reduces wear on the equipment, uses less energy, and increases system performance.
It also says that suction and head pressures should be the same or slightly higher than
R12. No need to change any controls. It is supposedly compatible with any
refrigeration oil. It must be charged as a liquid because it is a blend and not a
single compound. They provide a special valve to allow you to charge the liquid through
the suction side without damaging the compressor. Also, you only charge 80% by weight.
It is less dense than R12. For example, if the normal R12 charge were 40 ounces, you
would use 32 ounces of this stuff. Here’s the kicker. This stuff supposedly provides
5% more cooling than R12 and 15% more cooling than R134A! It’s also non toxic and non
flammable. The global warming factor is 0.38 (R12 = 1.0) You must be a certified AC
tech to purchase it. I know it all seems too good to be true.
We're going to use it to recharge the air conditioning in my Datsun 240Z this
weekend so I’ll get a chance first hand to test it. If it works out okay, eventually
I’ll put it in my E-type when I get it back together.
Just in case anyone else wants to let their air conditioning tech know about it,
here are some phone numbers:
ICOR International ESP
Indianapolis, Indiana Pickering Ontario, Canada
(317) 486-1013 (905) 420-6300
2-1973 Datsun 240-Z’s
1-1974 Datsun 260-Z
1-1970 Jaguar XKE Roadster
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 23:08:44 -0400
Subject: Re: '70 XKE - Starter inhibit switch - where is it?
At 07:57 AM 7/26/96 PDT, you wrote:
This seems consistent with a misadjusted starter inhibit switch - how
do I access this? What else could it be? I don’t have a lot of time
to mess around this time, so any clues are welcome.
David:
Before doing anything radical, I would fiddle with the shift lever and try
to finesse it into submission. Odds are, there is a bit of corrosion on the
switch plunger or contacts, and a little back and forth might free it. Also
try rocking the lever left and right while in park.
I am not familiar with the E-Type automatic, but looking at the diagrams in
Bentley’s “The Complete Official Jaguar E” (you should get a copy), You can
find this switch as follows:
-
Remove (unscrew) the shift knob.
-
Disconnect the battery.
-
There is one large chrome acorn nut on either side of the speaker
housing. remove these, and remove the speaker housing by pulling forward
while gently spreading the sides a bit open. -
You should now be able to lift up the center console, at least enough
to get to the four screws securing the ‘PRNDL’ housing. If you need to
remove additional hardware to lift the console, I can’t help, not being
familiar with the auto console.
5. Remove the 'PRNDL' housing by removing the four screws at it's base.
6. The shift linkage and all electrical connections will now be
accessible. The
starter inhibit switch will be on the left side, towards the front.
It has a hex-shaped body. Do not confuse it with the reverse light switch,
which is more or less round, and mounted closer to the base of the shifter.
7. Short the switch to ground, and give it a spin.
Alternative procedure:
In park, start inhibitor switch grounds the "W2" lead of the starter
solenoid relay. Only problem is, I don’t know where this relay is located. I
can, however, tell you where it isn’t:
1. It isn't on the left mudguard, behind the battery. The three relays
in this location are, from the top: horn, alternator, and A/C
2. It isn't mounted on the front rail, below the alternator. The two
relays in that location are for the radiator fans.
3. It is not located behind the center section of the dash. (remove the
two thumbscrews, and the center panel will swing down.) The relay in that
location is the headlight relay.
4. It isn't the round relay under the heater box. This is the ignition
light relay.
5. My best guess is that it is located behind the dash, on the right
side. You would need to remove the dash cover to explore further. This is a
simple procedure, but write me if you need to do this.
6. Whatever you do, DO NOT undo any of the screws securing the A/C
underdash unit. R&R of the A/C underdash is a two person job, and you will
need some advice. There are only two screws holding this in, and if you are
unfortunate enough to undo either of them, removal will be accomplished with
surprising suddeness.
Other steps:
1. You may have a bad starter. This seems unlikely, but if so, welcome
to the world of Lucas and Jaguar. Let’s just say that replacing said starter
is difficult.
2. Bad starter solenoid. Same comments as #1
3. Dirty/corroded spade connectors, terminals or leads on any of the
above electrical items. Once again, welcome to the wonderful world of Lucas.
4. Someone suggested adding a second battery. If this works, then
there is a corroded connector someplace. I would hesitate to drive the car
until I found the real problem.
My Jag starts every time. Every time. I give it a little choke, and it fires
on the first turn. Every time. If you settle for less, you will get stuck
somewhere.
Hope this helps
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 23:16:12 -0400
Subject: Re:Starter inhibit switch
I wrote:
In park, start inhibitor switch grounds the “W2” lead of the starter
solenoid
relay.
OOOPSS!! In park, the start inhibitor switch opens the ground on the W2
lead! If you want to bypass the switch, ground the lead.
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 23:23:45 -0400
Subject: XKE Sunvisors
To clarify my earlier note (a couple of questions on this). The BAS
sunvisors are complete units. You need only transfer the hinge and chrome
end cap from your old visors. Quality is excellent, all stitches are
invisible, and they will fit a passenger side mirror, if your car was so
equipped. The hardboard forms seem to be superior in strength to the
originals (but then again, mine were really far gone).
The 'sunvisors' included in most interior kits are usually just cloth
cut-outs which must be sewn and glued to your old (usually worn-out) forms.
This is beyond my upholstering capability, so the BAS ready-mades were well
worth the money to me.
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
From: justinb@Okway.okstate.edu (Justin Beightol)
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 23:18:38 -0500
Subject: CD-Changer installation in 87 XJ-6!
Denny,
Nice to meet you! I’m glad that I can finally give something back
to the list!
Here is what I have in my system, and 10-1 I would bet it is the
same as yours. I have the stock Jaguar AM/FM/Tape 5 preset radio,
with the stock speakers, which are single cone 5.25" speakers in a
plastic pod. The CD player is a Pioneer CDX-FM128. It is a 12-disc
caddy and external modulator.
I checked these CD players before I purchased the Pioneer CD-player:
Clarion, Kenwood, Alpine and Sony. The reason I chose the Pioneer
is (believe it or not, unless I was given wrong information, which
is doubtful) that the cord between the display unit and CD-player is
about 16 feet(which was needed for my original plan to install the
player in the car). The others, the display has to be between 3 and
6 feet away from the CD-changer.
Initially I was going to install the CD-changer in the trunk, but
as it worked out, I installed the modulator in the trunk, ER boot
There is a single wire going to it. which made for rather easy routing
of the wire. The CD changer I mounted under the passenger seat
with the unit facing backwards. I mounted it so that I could
change the caddy while driving, but far enough forward that most
people will not hit it with their feet. I then ran the wire
going to the modulator (in the boot) along with the engine control
wiring, coming out of the center console by the seat belt latch
on the passenger side, and plugging right into the unit.
The display unit (which I assume you were interested in) snapped
right into the ashtray holder without any modifications (just
removed the actual ashtray so that the holder was left). And routed
the wire to the back of the escutcheon and down under the carpet to
the CD-changer.
The power wires (two of them), I routed under the carpet that goes along
the transmission hump, and hooked (soldered) the red (the one that is to be
switched) onto the AC fuse, and soldered the orange wire (constant)
to another fuse terminal. Remember to put the wires on the fuse
side, not the power side!
Put the back seat back on, put the front seat back together,
and have a great CD changer that transmits on 87.9MHz.
If I was better, I would like to mount the display unit in the
center of the leather dash cover so that I don’t have to take
my eyes off the road so much, but that comes after a few tries
on some junked out dashboards! I also have plans of motorizing
the ashtray cover so that it opens once the car is turned on and
closes when the car is turned off. This would then conceal the
fact that you have a $430(with 8% tax) CD-changer.
I purchased this unit at Wal-Mart for $398 (before tax), and most
other audio specialty stores wanted $458 (before tax), even
megastores like Best Buy/Circuit City wanted $450-$478(before tax and
installation, plus best buy won’t touch Jaguars.)
I have plans of upgraded the stock speakers with Boston Acoustics
tweeter pods mounted on the little triangle area on the front doors
in front of the window, and replacing the stock speakers with
Infinity Kappa series speakers, or Bose. I plan on supplementing
the bass in the car with a homemade 7th order bandpass enclosure
box with an 8" woofer and 100-watt Rockford Fosgate Amplifier. You
can purchase a similar box from Collins Audio. Heck, a SAS Bazooka
tube might work well! I am just a do-it-yourself type if I can.
Hope this helps you.
Let me know of any ideas that you have, I would be most interested!
Also, I would like to know what you think about my front suspension
problem.
Justin Beightol
1987 XJ-6
From: justinb@Okway.okstate.edu (Justin Beightol)
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 23:20:09 -0500
Subject: 1987 Xj-6 CD-Changer installation – second attempt…
Denny,
Nice to meet you! I’m glad that I can finally give something back
to the list!
Here is what I have in my system, and 10-1 I would bet it is the
same as yours. I have the stock Jaguar AM/FM/Tape 5 preset radio,
with the stock speakers, which are single cone 5.25" speakers in a
plastic pod. The CD player is a Pioneer CDX-FM128. It is a 12-disc
caddy and external modulator.
I checked these CD players before I purchased the Pioneer CD-player:
Clarion, Kenwood, Alpine and Sony. The reason I chose the Pioneer
is (believe it or not, unless I was given wrong information, which
is doubtful) that the cord between the display unit and CD-player is
about 16 feet(which was needed for my original plan to install the
player in the car). The others, the display has to be between 3 and
6 feet away from the CD-changer.
Initially I was going to install the CD-changer in the trunk, but
as it worked out, I installed the modulator in the trunk, ER boot
There is a single wire going to it. which made for rather easy routing
of the wire. The CD changer I mounted under the passenger seat
with the unit facing backwards. I mounted it so that I could
change the caddy while driving, but far enough forward that most
people will not hit it with their feet. I then ran the wire
going to the modulator (in the boot) along with the engine control
wiring, coming out of the center console by the seat belt latch
on the passenger side, and plugging right into the unit.
The display unit (which I assume you were interested in) snapped
right into the ashtray holder without any modifications (just
removed the actual ashtray so that the holder was left). And routed
the wire to the back of the escutcheon and down under the carpet to
the CD-changer.
The power wires (two of them), I routed under the carpet that goes along
the transmission hump, and hooked (soldered) the red (the one that is to be
switched) onto the AC fuse, and soldered the orange wire (constant)
to another fuse terminal. Remember to put the wires on the fuse
side, not the power side!
Put the back seat back on, put the front seat back together,
and have a great CD changer that transmits on 87.9MHz.
If I was better, I would like to mount the display unit in the
center of the leather dash cover so that I don’t have to take
my eyes off the road so much, but that comes after a few tries
on some junked out dashboards! I also have plans of motorizing
the ashtray cover so that it opens once the car is turned on and
closes when the car is turned off. This would then conceal the
fact that you have a $430(with 8% tax) CD-changer.
I purchased this unit at Wal-Mart for $398 (before tax), and most
other audio specialty stores wanted $458 (before tax), even
megastores like Best Buy/Circuit City wanted $450-$478(before tax and
installation, plus best buy won’t touch Jaguars.)
I have plans of upgraded the stock speakers with Boston Acoustics
tweeter pods mounted on the little triangle area on the front doors
in front of the window, and replacing the stock speakers with
Infinity Kappa series speakers, or Bose. I plan on supplementing
the bass in the car with a homemade 7th order bandpass enclosure
box with an 8" woofer and 100-watt Rockford Fosgate Amplifier. You
can purchase a similar box from Collins Audio. Heck, a SAS Bazooka
tube might work well! I am just a do-it-yourself type if I can.
Hope this helps you.
Let me know of any ideas that you have, I would be most interested!
Also, I would like to know what you think about my front suspension
problem.
Justin Beightol
1987 XJ-6
From: Cliff Sadler ata@netsrq.com
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 01:02:41 -0400
Subject: brake issue
Hi. I’ve got an '83 XJS that probably hasn’t had a great deal of brake
work done to it over it’s life. What I’m experiencing now is: often
when braking to a stop, I am getting a vibration in the STEERING WHEEL,
that sometimes can get quite violent (the passenger can see, and feel
it); but other times is hardly noticable. This is within the same
drive. Doesn’t seem to matter whether the car is cold, hot, first
braking, or the 30th.
I’m assuming that this may be warped front rotors, but I wanted an
opinion from the group.
Cliff Sadler
VP Sales/Marketing ATA, Inc.
http://www.netsrq.com/~ata/docexpress
ata@netsrq.com
From: Tommy loner@peterboro.net
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 00:57:29 -0400
Subject: Fuel Odours
Hey All Jag Lovers:
As I mentioned in a previous posting I'm getting a fuel odour in my =
1980 XJ6. When the windows are closed while running the car there’s no =
fuel odour inside the cabin. If the windows are open the smell is faint =
while moving and more pronounced when at idle. Because the odour seems =
greatest when backing out of my driveway I figure the fuel odour must =
originate from the rear of the car.
Absolutely no fuel leaks or odour in the boot (unbelievable, but =
true!). No apparent leaks from any fuels lines located underbody. No =
apparent leaks in the engine bay. I disassembled and reassembled the =
fuel rail and all components last summer when I detailed the engine.=20
Is it possible that I installed the fuel filler caps on opposite sides =
when replacing them after repainting?. I know they don’t look “handed” =
but upon closer inspection I believe they are. The rubber (or neoprene =
or whatever) seal that is held against the fuel filler neck when the cap =
is closed has a metal plate attached to it. Should that metal plate =
correspond to the open area of the filler neck and not to the tab casted =
in the neck? Does any of this make sense? It seems there is a bit of an =
odour coming from the filler caps - maybe air turbulence is kicking it =
up when driving?
=09
Can anyone advise me on those fuel filler caps before I interchange =
them?
Also, today on my way into town, the fuel odour was very strong. Much =
more than ever before. When I got into town I looked under the car near =
the LH rear wheel well and - dammit - fuel was pissin’ out. Dripping all =
over that rear muffler! Upon further inspection, when I got home, I =
discovered that the fuel “return” line sprouted a leak from 16 years of =
corrosion right next to the 3 way splitter just behind the IRS on the =
LHS. So instead of just splicing in some 3/8 inch hose I’ll have to =
remove and replace that splitter as well.
I really don't think this leak was the cause of previous fuel odours. =
Afterall, I previously checked and couldn’t see any leakage or signs =
thereof. Then again, maybe it was leaking ever so lightly and =
evaporating on the muffler before I could detect it visually.
I know I'm rambling, but please bear with me. I'm almost done.
Is it advisable to use copper tubing for fuel lines? It's cheap, easy =
to bend, and pretty corrosion resistant. A bit soft, though. I wouldn’t =
use it for brake lines because of this but I’ve seen others that have =
without ill effect.
In closing - what's the story on those fuel filler caps and what are =
the disadvantages of using copper tubing for fuel line? Maybe it’ll =
produce (British Racing) green exhaust smoke. ;>)
Sorry to bore you all, but do respond. Thanks.
Tommy
loner@peterboro.net
“Lost in the hills of Cavan”
From: Gunnar Forsgren gunnar@medial.se
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 11:28:10 +0200
Subject: PLEASE, try to use less bandwith for small talk…
Jan Wikstroem wrote:
Don’t worry about offending me, Mark, that would take quite a lot and I’m
certainly not offended. I just tried to analyse and make clear the underlying
reasons why we act as we do. I have this childish belief that if we all
understand the difference between fact and opinion, and concede that everybody
has a right to hold (and express) any opinion, however unfounded, we’ll all get
along better.It’s unfortunate that written communication doesn’t include tone of voice,
facial expression and gestures (though we can do without some gestures); this
often leads to misunderstandings. What we need is a character set with better
smileys…
Please Mr Wikstroem !
I checked my mail and found 178 new messages since thursday,
the majority from Mr Jan Wikstroem, most of them containing
chatty talk like the sample above commenting on each and every
subject talked about on the list.
Several messages are duplicates for which
reason I don’t know, some list server problem ?
This radiated to several hundreds of list subscribers.
No fun to download a lot of stuff over a dial-up modem
and find the contents of little use to most Jag owners.
I suggest frequent back and forth dicussions with a single och a few
people about off topic stuff be carried out over email.
Or at least consider if the contents is of interest to hundreds
of people before you post it. Sorry for my comment, I just did not
recognize the good ol list I used to read.
Few will care to subscribe to the traffic otherwise
and the list will have lost its original purpose.
This list would be ideal to run as newsgroups
on a private News server where groups could be set up to
divide topics into areas so that not all users will
have to download everything.
Also the type of web message board service in use at many places
on the web might be a solution, if enhanced to allow selection
of multiple discussion groups.
As an example I run a web board for Opel automobile talk at
http://www.medial.se/opel/opconf.html
That kind of WWW conference system could be enhanced to carry
multiple groups, tell me what you think of
such a solution for Jag conferencing.
Could even add password protection to keep out
other than the list members.
Gunnar Forsgren gunnar@medial.se
MEDIAL Maskin & Data +46 8 570 25056 (phone/fax/answer)
S-139 50 V�rmd�, SWEDEN http://www.medial.se
XJ6 4.2 S1 '72
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 03:00:01 -0400
Subject: Re: [SIII XJ6] Butterfly valve stop screw/nut
Gunnar Helliessen :
I’m really curious as to why this clearance has to be exactely 0.02 inches.
Jan Wikstroem:
I’d guess that they want the butterfly just off the wall to prevent
sticking in
the inevitable cruddy deposits, not to mention preventing wear of the throat,
and 0.002in (0.05mm) is simply the thinnest commonly available feeler gauge.
There was a change here once. I suspect that the key issue is to make sure
the butterfly is open enough to prevent sticking, while not specifying a
gauge so thick that there is a risk of the STIFFNESS of the gauge making the
butterfly sit way too far open.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #244
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jag-lovers-digest Sunday, 28 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 245
Cracked Oil Tubes
Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
Re: digest of advice on:leaks…leaks…leaks…those pesky leaks
Ignition Amp for Early V-12
Strokin’
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #243
Re: Strokin’
Vibration in steering wheel on breaking
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #238
Top Displacement for a 4.2L is 4.75L
Re: Strokin’
V-12 maximum displacement
armstrong steering
'70 XKE - Starter inhibit switch. Aha, there it is!
XJ6 (SIII) fuel filler caps
Differential Access – XJ-S
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 02:59:59 -0400
Subject: Cracked Oil Tubes
Patrick writes,
I once had a similar situation on my E-Type after replacing gaskets on
the banjo fittings etc. The leak got worse until I finally noticed a
hairline fatigue crack in the oil line where it is brazed into the banjo
fitting. It was extremely difficult to see at first as it was just along
the edge of the braze material.
When I worked on jet engines at P&WA, one of the biggest durability problems
was with brazed tubing fittings. In a vibration environment, the braze
connection between the tube and the fitting is where fatigue will eventually
cause a crack, either through the braze material (making the fitting come
loose) or through the tube. If you’re lucky and the crack is through the
braze, you can simply re-braze it.
Probably wouldn’t be too difficult to make a replacement tube. Of course,
I’d be tempted to improve something, possibly making it larger tubing or
reinforcing the ends to stiffen it locally.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 02:59:57 -0400
Subject: Re: E-Type gearbox whine at idle
Morrismori@aol.com wrote:
I have an V12 E-type over here (in western germany)…
Anyway, anybody out there know what a whining noise emanating from the
gearbox is when the car is idling at the lights. (It’s quite loud and
obtrusive)Robert Johnson, D.Sc.:
It sounds like the throw out bearing. If so the noise will go away
when you pick off the clutch, as the thrust on the bearing only exists
when the clutch is depressed. It is common to have the sound change or
vanish by pumping the clutch.
Unfortunately for this theory, the throwout bearing on the V-12 E-type is a
carbon bearing, not a roller. Hard to imagine the sliding of carbon against
steel making this noise. Besides, it seems to make noise at the wrong time.
Seems more likely to me to be the input bearing on the tranny, which would
stop when the clutch is depressed long enough for the input shaft to stop
turning.
Doesn’t matter, though; whatever it is, tranny must come out, at which time
the problem will be obvious.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 02:59:53 -0400
Subject: Re: digest of advice on:leaks…leaks…leaks…those pesky leaks
Also, another question: while attempting to find additional information
about the dipstick tube in the shop manual (almost none there!) I noticed
that there are only one or two diagrams that show the location of the
dipstick tube in the engine bay. Both diagrams indicate that the tube is on
the driver side (left side of the car as you sit in it). The tube in my car
is located on the passanger side. Any significance to this ?
Probably a difference between the Borg Warner DG and the GM 400, although I
dunno for sure. The dipstick is on the right side in my car as well, as
well as all cars I’ve seen. I don’t think it could easily be moved, as
that’s where the hole is on the GM 400.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 03:00:07 -0400
Subject: Ignition Amp for Early V-12
Got a flyer in the mail from British Auto/USA that includes an ad for “New
Development… A Major Breakthrough for V-12 Owners”. The illustration
shows what looks like the early finned aluminium ignition amp. The
description goes as follows:
"The factory long ago recognized the fault of placing this
electronic box in the high temperature environment on the engine. A
redesigned unit allowed moving the amplifier to the front of the engine
compartment. A band-aid solution at best, the unit still suffered from low
high voltage output.
"British Auto/USA has had this unit fully reinvented using modern
high tech components which allows the unit to live in the original engine
mounting. This new unit provides a reliable solution which provides a spark
output 8 times better than the original and comes with a lifetime warranty.
Now you can put your Jaguar back to original appearance with modern high
output and reliability for concours showing or your personal satisfaction."
The ad mentions the S-3 E-type, S-1 XJ12, and S-2 XJ12 with carburetors. It
does NOT mention the early XJ-S, although it certainly sounds as though this
amp would be suitable for it as well.
The part number for this unit is JLM368/R, and it lists for $395.
Anybody wanna discuss this?
In a related development, John Milne gave me a copy of SAE paper 720163,
which describes the development of the Jaguar V-12 engine. The Lucas “OPUS”
Mark 2 electronic ignition system is described. To summarize, the amp
contains a 600KHz oscillator. This high-frequency voltage is fed to the
pickup in the distributor, which has an E-shaped core. The voltage feeds
two similar coils on the top and bottom legs of the E. Because the coils
are opposed to each other, the secondary coil on the center leg gets no net
flux and produces no output. When a ferrite insert in the disk on the
distributor rotor aligns itself with the center and one side of this E, the
input coil on that side becomes more closely coupled with the secondary coil
than the opposing input coil, and the imbalance causes an output in the
secondary coil. The output of the secondary coil is fed back to the
amplifier, where it turns the power transistor on and off.
A V-12 operating at 6000 RPM requires 600 sparks/sec. The paper claims that
the capability of a conventional contact breaker ignition system is only 400
sparks/second, while the OPUS system can produce 800 sparks/second.
The various discussions about wire length concerns when moving make some
sense here. 800KHz is pretty high (I’ll defer to the EE’s to elaborate) and
running such a signal through unshielded/unbalanced wires of any length in
an engine compartment could conceivably cause problems. Any significant
impedance could drop signal power considerably, and if the wire feeding the
primary coil is placed alongside the wire from the secondary coil, it may
generate enough signal in the secondary wire by induction to trigger a
spark. If the wires are waving around with the vibration and airflow in the
compartment, they may go in and out of position with each other causing
random misfiring.
I have often wondered if the relocation kit, which includes a new amp,
includes a MODIFIED amp to provide for the longer wires, or whether the amp
is included just because you don’t bother doing the fix until the original
amp is fried anyway. If relocation of the original amp were a workable
plan, you’d think they would offer a kit to do it WITHOUT a new amp (and
therefore much cheaper) and possibly even do it as a recall. I have heard
from people that moved their old amp with success, and I have heard from one
owner who purchased the relocation kit and couldn’t get the new amp to work
until he SHORTENED the wires and put it back in the “V” of the engine.
I will take this opportunity to pass on a tip I got from Dick Russell in
Christchurch. He had problems after relocating the amp to the top of the
radiator. He got some ribbon wire with six conductors and used every other
wire to connect the amp to the pickup in the distributor. The unused
conductors in between held the wires far enough apart to prevent any
problems, and his system worked fine.
Gee. I wrote a pretty lengthy message considering my own car doesn’t have
this amp, didn’t I?
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 02:59:39 -0400
Subject: Strokin’
Many gearheads can tell you – right off the top of their heads – just how
many cubic inches you can fit into a Chevy small block. There ain’t any
substitute for cubic inches, and fitting the most cubes possible into an
engine is one excellent way to get the most HP per pound of motor – a good
route to an excellent performance car. Conversely, having a large, heavy
block with nowhere near as much displacement as it should have is a recipe
for a cow.
So: how much displacement can you fit into a Jaguar V-12, which starts at
5.3 litre? Anyone who has ever seen the block, especially sitting on a
bench, knows it is a BIG block. Of course, the fact that it is a V-12 will
make it appear larger than a V8 of comparable displacement. And the fact
that it is a radically over-square configuration (90mm bore x 70mm stroke)
also will make the block appear larger than it is. But just how big is it,
really?
The various oversize Jaguar V-12’s on the market seem to indicate that the
farthest one can expand the 90mm bore is to somewhere around 98mm. I don’t
think this includes the possibilities of siamesed cylinders or other risky
methods, but it’s probably as close together as you’d want the bores to get.
But the 1994-on 6.0 litre engine has a 78mm stroke. What’s the limit there?
While in Christchurch, New Zealand, I met a guy named Bill White who went a
ways answering this question. It all started with a company in the UK that
intends to build a 3/4 scale Spitfire. They liked the idea of the Jaguar
V-12, since it was about the right size and configuration to mimic the Rolls
Royce Merlin; but they were a little upset about the 300 HP rating the
engine typically comes with, figuring they would need something more like
500 HP to make the Spitfire perform the way it should.
White said, “No worries, can do.” He opened up the Jag to 95mm x 95mm –
IOW, he increased the stroke by an INCH, for a whopping 8.1 litre capacity.
And, since the engine is so far oversquare to begin with, even this radical
a stroking still results in a perfectly square motor. While I was visiting
his little shop and inspecting his crank casting forms, I asked him about
what all was involved. Custom oil pan? No, the stock sandwich plate and
pan assembly. Serious cutting on the block? No, it all fits without
modification, other than a boring of the holes in the block to fit the
larger wet liners. Fancy heads? No, the stock HE heads are used, thereby
maintaining the May fireball combustion chamber benefits. The only
concession is that the piston skirts are kinda short.
For the aircraft application, White is working on adapting half of a diesel
truck turbocharger to provide a belt-driven supercharger – similar to what
the Merlin had. However, as long as he’s developed the motor this far, he
is also preparing a naturally-aspirated version for use in the XJ-S.
At the time of my visit, this engine had only been dyno tested up to 3000
RPM (it’s designed to run at 5000 in the aircraft application – IOW, no
stresses, ultra-reliable conservative), but he reports that in
normally-aspirated form at 3000 RPM it produces over 500 ft-lbs of torque.
The supercharged setup produces 820 ft-lbs. White figures he’ll be able to
provide a solid, dependable 650 HP for the aircraft.
This isn’t even White’s forte; his specialty is intake systems, but I will
discuss that in a separate message.
I said he went a long way to answering the question; I didn’t say it was
this engine. I asked what stroke would fit inside the block, and he replied
that well over four inches was possible. He told me that an outfit in the
UK called Forward Engineering prepares Jaguar V-12’s for offshore boat
racing applications. These guys take advantage of the wet liner
configuration by inserting a spacer between the block and the head,
effectively raising the deck height by the thickness of the spacer. Liners
that are longer than stock by the same amount permit a long stroke while
using pistons with adequate skirt length. Simple replacement of the stock
studs with longer ones holds the head on, and making the spacer thickness
the same as one link of the timing chain allows the addition of four links
and using the stock timing chain setup. With all this plugged in, their
engines end up at 9.3 litre – and are reportedly the engine of choice in
the offshore boat racing biz.
So: we were discussing how to assemble an XJ-S to harass the Viper/Corvette
crowd?
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: “Thos. Carney” carney@vcn.bc.ca
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 07:39:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #243
Re silicone and Scott’s 88 XJ40 (boot seal)
We have enough debates (?!) going re chevy lumpectomies,
leaded/unleaded etc. so I hate to risk another one: also my comment
following caused a near flame war on the antiques column (pro and con),
BUT
My mechanic of 25+ years who also has a masters degree in chemistry
has banned the use of silicone on my vehicles, urging me to use the more
expensive urathane. He claims silicone (at least most such silicone
compounds) encourage rust. I believe it is something to do with the
curing vis-a-vis painted surfaces etc.
We have some real experts on the Jag Lovers column, but I thought I
should point this out for Scott or anyone else’s benefit.
Tom Carney
1949 Jag Mark V drophead
1969 Mercedes Benz 250C
(How come every second time I wear them my socks are inside out?)
- -0-
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 10:47:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Strokin’
On Jul 27, 2:59am, Kirby Palm wrote:
Subject: Strokin’
So: how much displacement can you fit into a Jaguar V-12, which starts at
5.3 litre?
Anyone know how big you can go w/ a Jag 6? I am going to do a big$(hey, my only
toy-I’ll spend what it takes) rebuild on my E-motor and want the most torque
and mid range h.p. I have see ads for 4.5 and 4.8 litre. Anyone had experience
w/ these? Is it a new crank that gives the displacement?
but he reports that in
normally-aspirated form at 3000 RPM it produces over 500 ft-lbs of torque.
The supercharged setup produces 820 ft-lbs. White figures he’ll be able to
provide a solid, dependable 650 HP for the aircraft.
Stop it Kirby, you’re making me salivate
So: we were discussing how to assemble an XJ-S to harass the Viper/Corvette
crowd?
And why not do a SWB Etype?
Mark McChesney
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 10:28:32 -0500
Subject: Vibration in steering wheel on breaking
Its an easy fix. Either replace your front rotors or have them turned
($120 vs $15) If you need the car as I did and can’t wait then order the
new ones and have the old ones turned and put them on the shelf for later.
Jim
“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil
From: RogerS7642@aol.com
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 13:40:21 -0400
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #238
In a message dated 96-07-25 23:48:25 EDT, you write:
<< I had a get-rid-of-it wife once. Got rid of her, though. >>
Congratulations on getting rid of a bad wife!
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson)
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 13:08:32 -0700
Subject: Top Displacement for a 4.2L is 4.75L
This is multipart MIME message.
- –cikhnteaiscgasqjhlkyahnegpexxk
Content-Type:text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; name=“NCZ2333.TMP”
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
- –cikhnteaiscgasqjhlkyahnegpexxk
Content-Type:text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; name=“00001166.msg”
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com(Anthony Parkinson)
Subject: Re: E type 4.75L (4.2)
To: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
You wrote:
Anyone know how big you can go w/ a Jag 6?
Max is 4.75L
I am going to do a big$(hey, my only
toy-I’ll spend what it takes) rebuild on my E-motor and want the most
torque
and mid range h.p. I have see ads for 4.5 and 4.8 litre. Anyone had
experience
w/ these?
You can only get 4.5 in the bores…
Is it a new crank that gives the displacement?
Then the additional displacement is from the stroke extended to 114mm
We also use the Porsche turbo (Mahle) pistons
wet sump using sump wings to increase capacity
We will be getting 395 bhp on 130 octane at the flywheel. Torgue tunes
i around 2500 rpm … cost is $18,000 on your motor ex works
It is currently running in the UK and will be in Mexico at the end of
September in 61 Lightweight…
All the best
tony
VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web
- –cikhnteaiscgasqjhlkyahnegpexxk–
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 18:58:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Strokin’
At 02:59 AM 7/27/96 -0400, you wrote:
So: how much displacement can you fit into a Jaguar V-12, which starts at
5.3 litre?
In the December '95 issue of British Car (a relatively obscure magazine
published here in the USA), there was an article titled “Monster-Motor V12
E-Type”. The article was about a car built by Sovereign Motors of Santa
Rosa, CA. The car was an E-Type, but this was just a demonstration vehicle
for a motor they planned to put in and XJ-S. The motor was stroked out an
extra 92 cubic inches. (about 1500 cc), bringing displacement to about 6.8L.
Now this is the cool part. They fit two 4.0 AJ6 heads to the motor. That’s
right, AJ6 heads. The left head had to be sectioned up and remanufactured,
to allow the intake ports to be “in the valley”. An Electromotive TEC 1
ignition computer provided engine management. Standard cams were used, and
the combustion chambers remain stock. A header exhaut completes the package.
This yields a motor with about 6.8 liters displacement, 10:1 compression, 48
valves, six ignition coils, fuel injection, and … 640
horsepower!!! (price is only $45,000US).
Now let’s put it all together: A bored and stroked engine, yielding say,
eight liters, fuel injected, four valve heads, and perhaps a supercharger.
What would you guess? 900? 1000 horsepower?
I also remember reading somewhere about someone putting a real Merlin engine
in a Rolls Royce Phantom III. The Phantom had to be stretched(!!!) and
strengthed to accept the engine, and the driveline was built up from truck
components. The Merlin yielded about 1200 HP, and the owners comment was
something like “moves great—in a straight line”.
Mike Frank
1969 E-type 2+2
From: jello@dns.ida.net (Phil Bates)
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 18:39:41 -0600
Subject: V-12 maximum displacement
I don’t remember where I read it, and I looked, but can’t find it, but …
I recall reading that the V-12 block was designed to go up to a maximum
displacement of 7 l without block modification. You can slip in bored out
cylindars and pistons, and change the stroke somewhat. If you want to
machine the block, of course it is a much larger range.
Phil Bates
67 MGB
75 Jaguar XJ12C
52 MG TD replicar (VW)
From: kharder@Direct.CA (Ken Harder)
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 1996 22:42:05 -0700
Subject: armstrong steering
Thank you to everyone who replied and tried to help with my steering
problem. I thought I was going to have to let go of the big bucks for a
steering rack. It was only a 25.00 valve. My friend Ludwig at British Motors
in Surrey, found the problem right away. To recap, I had armstrong steering
only at low speeds.
Thanks again,
Debbie
From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 96 00:40:00 PDT
Subject: '70 XKE - Starter inhibit switch. Aha, there it is!
Thanks to the several who gave me a crash course on where the starter inhibit
switch is in my newly-acquired '70 XKE 2+2 automatic. Mike Frank’s reply was
very comprehensive and I’ll print this out as a relay_location_and_function
digest. Late Friday night I poked around and suddenly it sprang to life, and
started fine today (and tonight). I have no idea why. I’d rather it just
stayed dead until I found the offending element. But I’ll heed Mike’s advice
and not do any mission-critical driving until I’ve checked and cleaned every
connector, relay, and switch.
A few words about the car: I bought it on Tuesday from the original owners, with
78K miles. I think I got a good price. By the service records it’s only done 7K
miles in the last 10 years. The interior was redone 10 years ago, and the body
resprayed at the same time. Original color was Willow Green, and the subframe
and firewall still are. The outside is a metallic bronze which is not
unpleasant. My kids think it’s a cool car.
Due to lack of exercise, the transmission seals are pretty leaky. Before I
spring the bucks to have those replaced, I poured in a $3.00 bottle of
Gunk-brand transmission sealer. Am I making a big mistake here? Is this stuff
really healthy for the transmission? I drove about 20 miles today and it’s
leaking less, I think.
Otherwise it’s in great shape. The compression varies from 145 to 160, and the
motor makes decent power. The chrome is perfect, no ripples or any dings, the
wire wheels look great but need tightening. My mechanic made a long list of
things to fix, none of them serious. The A/C is shot, but that’s
straightforward work, anyway Mike’s comprehensive A/C installation guide is
saved to disk.
Thanks all, and regards,
David
'70 XKE 2+2 Bronze(d)
'84 XJ6 VDP Sage Green
'87 Volvo 745 TGA Fire Engine Red
From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 96 01:09:00 PDT
Subject: XJ6 (SIII) fuel filler caps
Tommy,
I checked what you wrote by looking at my '84 XJ6, which has never had
the fuel filler caps removed, and it seems that they are handed, as
you say. The cast filler opening has a tab molded into it. The tab,
which covers about 90' or so, should be closest to it's side of the
car. In other words, one fuel filler opening has the tab on the left
- that should go on the left side of the car. And so on for the
right-sided one. The rubber washer with the metal plate (in the
lovely chrome cap) should seat tightly against the cast opening
without the metal piece hitting the cast tab. Dunno if this has
anything to do with the fuel odor you are experiencing - maybe the
problem is spread over several components. I know that it doesn't
have to be this way - mine is devoid of fuel odors. I have no
expertise on whether copper is suitable as fuel piping - but I haven't
seen it used in production.
Best regards,
David
Tommy wrote:
>Is it possible that I installed the fuel filler caps on opposite
?sides when replacing them after repainting?. I know they don't look
>"handed" but upon closer inspection I believe they are. The rubber
>(or neoprene or whatever) seal that is held against the fuel filler
>neck when the cap is closed has a metal plate attached to it. Should
>that metal plate correspond to the open area of the filler neck and
>not to the tab casted in the neck? Does any of this make sense? It
>seems there is a bit of an odour coming from the filler caps - maybe
>air turbulence is kicking it up when driving?
>Can anyone advise me on those fuel filler caps before I interchange =
>them?
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 04:58:29 -0400
Subject: Differential Access – XJ-S
Brian Sherwood says:
I recently changed the gear lube in the differential of my '84 XJ-S- there
was a 3" round access plug in the boot, just forward of the fuel pump, which
when removed allowed me to get in with a wrench to remove the plug and also
made putting in the fill tube much easier. I didn’t see any mention of this
plug in your booklet, thought you might be interested.
That’s because I never heard of it! I have checked my '83, and it has a
similar opening – except that it is permanently sealed with a metal plug!
Don’t think I could open it without a saw. So, I am posting this to the
group for additional input. How many of you have rubber plugs as well? Or
did the PO of this guy’s car use a saw?
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 29 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 246
RE: 1987 XJ-6 Starter, Front Suspension, and Radio…
Re: Strokin’
Re: Why build a small engine?
Re: Why build a small engine?
Re: Strokin’
Re: Strokin’
[none]
No turn indicator lights on dash panel/ cruise control defunct
XJ40 KYB shock conversion
Why buy a Jaguar?
XJ40 KYB shock conversion
XJ6 ser 2 Air-con Compressor
XJ6 ser 2 - fresh air intake
Re: Strokin’
Re: -No Subject-
US '86 XJ6 SIII: Loss of door locking
Re: Why buy a Jaguar?
Re: XJ6 ser 2 - fresh air intake
Re: Fuel-pump 74 E-type
Differential Access Plug-- XJ-S
From: “Dawson, Barrie” dawsonb@btcec3.agw.bt.co.uk
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 96 14:24:00 GMT
Subject: RE: 1987 XJ-6 Starter, Front Suspension, and Radio…
I have had a similar problem with the suspension appearing to knock when
hitting bumps, it turned out to be the steering rack mountings being badly
worn. There is another possibility that of the front roll bar mounting
bushes,
Barrie Dawson
Chatham, Kent. England
1985 Series 3 Sovereign
From: jag-lovers-owner
To: jag-lovers
Subject: 1987 XJ-6 Starter, Front Suspension, and Radio…
Date: 24 July 1996 09:28
First:
What kind (make) of starter is on the Jaguar 4.2L engine (in a 1987
XJ6)? It seems to me that the solenoid or spring is losing it's
strength and doesn't always engage the flywheel.
Second:
(background) I have a loose "slam"plate above the catalytic (spelling)
converter(left hand side of the car) and a loose metal brake line
going down the right hand side of the car.
(opinion) Every time I hit a bump driving the car it sounds like two
metal pieces hitting together along with the combined noise of what
sounds to be a "dead" shock. What else could be making these sounds?
I will be glad to give more detail if necessary (I just don't want to
add extraneous stuff). Again, this is on a 1987 XJ6.
Third:
I have installed a Pioneer 12 disc cd-changer in the automobile, and
have the changer installed under the passenger seat, and the
controller mounted in the ashtray to the left of the transmission
lever (Is there a technical name?). It works out pretty neat and I am
thinking of motorizing the ashtray to close when the car is off, and
open when the car is turned on. I still have the stock Jaguar
AM/FM/Tape head unit. I would be interested in what others have done
to their Jaguar's.
Justin Beightol
1987 Jaguar XJ-6
From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 15:35:51 GMT
Subject: Re: Strokin’
In message 199607270659.AA20900@gcn.scri.fsu.edu Kirby Palm writes:
With all this plugged in, their
engines end up at 9.3 litre – and are reportedly the engine of choice in
the offshore boat racing biz.So: we were discussing how to assemble an XJ-S to harass the Viper/Corvette
crowd?
Well, what kind of torque converter and (auto!) gearbox would be able to take
the resulting torque ?
Regards,
Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 15:46:23 GMT
Subject: Re: Why build a small engine?
In message 199607280902.AA04147@gcn.scri.fsu.edu Kirby Palm writes:
I
can’t imagine it being the reasoning behind the Jag V-12 being only 5.3 or
6.0 when it could be 7.0 or more, though.So: Any comments?
Cost. Smaller motor = cheaper build = larger gross margin
Jaguar only enlarged the V12 after BMW came out with their 5.6 litre engine.
Hey presto, Jaguar topped them with a 6 litre.
Regards,
Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
From: jello@dns.ida.net (Phil Bates)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 10:10:21 -0600
Subject: Re: Why build a small engine?
It may be true, however, that the use of the full displacement of a block
(and therefore more power) may entail making OTHER parts of the car heavier,
including the use of a heavier-duty drivetrain, bigger brakes, etc., and all
of this may in fact result in reduced fuel economy. It’s probably not the
way I would go in car design, but I can see some companies doing it. I
can’t imagine it being the reasoning behind the Jag V-12 being only 5.3 or
6.0 when it could be 7.0 or more, though.
There is an obvious answer. Durability. The thinner the walls of the
cylindars, the shorter their life. Longer strokes put more stress on your
bearings.
Phil Bates
67 MGB
75 Jaguar XJ12C
52 MG TD replicar (VW)
From: Melanie Brackett brackett@uwimona.edu.jm
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 11:24:37 -0500 (GMT-0500)
Subject: Re: Strokin’
On Sun, 28 Jul 1996, Stefan Schulz wrote:
With all this plugged in, their
engines end up at 9.3 litre – and are reportedly the engine of choice in
the offshore boat racing biz.
Well, what kind of torque converter and (auto!) gearbox would be able to take
the resulting torque ?
Well, I would think a “lump’s behind” should do fine, pal o’ mine.
Properly prepared, they can and do withstand enormous amounts of torque.
Might not be the most efficient tranny in the world, the GM TH350-400-700,
but they are the strongest. So go get some aftermarket parts for your
“rear end”. Cheap, too. While I’m at it, Foward Engineering was
mentioned by me sometine ago, and they were offering a 8.2Litre
conversion then, but some members on the list were quick to point out
that the firm was disreputable, if I remember correctly. Any comments?
Welcome back Kirby !
If its a jungle out there,
I’m glad I’m driving a Jaguar.
Mario James, 1972 XJ6 SI
From: Melanie Brackett brackett@uwimona.edu.jm
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 11:39:51 -0500 (GMT-0500)
Subject: Re: Strokin’
Now this is the cool part. They fit two 4.0 AJ6 heads to the motor. That’s
right, AJ6 heads. The left head had to be sectioned up and remanufactured,
to allow the intake ports to be “in the valley”. An Electromotive TEC 1
ignition computer provided engine management. Standard cams were used, and
the combustion chambers remain stock. A header exhaut completes the package.
This yields a motor with about 6.8 liters displacement, 10:1 compression, 48
valves, six ignition coils, fuel injection, and … 640
horsepower!!! (price is only $45,000US!)Mike Frank
1969 E-type 2+2
You know, they should give out capital punishment for writing posts like
this. You know how much needless pain and suffering you’ve now bestowed
upon me? chronic hepatitic jaguaricus withoutus syndromus has now come
home to roost…Oh, the calamity of it! I would like the
phone number of this firm, though… to ask just a few leeeeetle
questions…
If its a jungle out there,
I’m glad I’m driving a Jaguar.
Mario James
1972 XJ6 SI
From: jackb@epix.net (Jack Bednarski)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 01:37:11 -0400
Subject: [none]
Why own a Jaguar? Is it an elitist status symbol? Is it an expensive TOY??
Some can say yes to both questions. But search deep into your psyches. Do
you love the style and beauty of the car? Do you spend hard earned dollars
to restore and repair these beautiful works of art because you want the rest
of the world to be able to see and appreciate these cars in their original
condition? Do you want to see the marque succeed so you can buy another
model in the future? I can’t imagine a more beautiful car than a Jag. If
you can answer yes to these questions you’re a Jag Lover or a very rich lunatic.
Jack Bednarski
71 XKE V12
90 XJS VDP
95 XJS V12
From: Jim Brown brown@ns.net
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 12:44:05 -0700
Subject: No turn indicator lights on dash panel/ cruise control defunct
Dear List-mates,
I’m having a wonderful time with my new 1985 XJ-S HE. The PO did a great job
keeping it original and beautiful. I’m sorry I waited so long to own a
Jaguar…what a pleasure to drive. As you’d imagine, however, I’m working
through a series of quirks and anomalies in the finest Jaguar tradition. A
fuel odor problem in the trunk still has me stumped, despite excellent
advice from the group ,but no more power steering leak!
Today’s problem; when activating the turn indicators the external signals
work, the flasher works but the indicator lights on the dash don’t. Sound
familiar to anyone? The cruise control also took a dive this last week. One
day it was working, the next day nothing. I’d appreciate advice on that too.
I suspect that it must be something rather minor(I hope) and characteristic
of the breed.
I’ve seen oblique reference to a Jaguar event of some sort in Monterey/
Carmel, California apparently in the month of August. I’d like to attend.
Any information would be very welcome.
Thank you in advance.
Jim
From: cobac@ix.netcom.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 16:05:50 -0700
Subject: XJ40 KYB shock conversion
Hi Jag-Lovers!,
I’ve taken the advice of others and have converted the
rear-leveling shocks on my 1989 (XJ40) Vanden Plas to the non-leveling
type. To do this, I purchased the KYB conversion kit (it was almost 1/2
the price of the dealers kit), and installed it in relatively no time!
The problem “now” is, the back of the car sags, and looks as if I have
filled the trunk with cinder blocks (even though nothing is in the car)!
The kit included: 2 KYB shocks (with a dish to hold the spring),
2 very thin spacers (beneath spring), 2 dust boots, and 2 small washers
with nuts for the top of the shocks. Everything (except the small nuts &
washers), were reused from the “old” hydraulic system (including
springs).
I assume the rear fender curves should be slightly ABOVE the
tires, however, mine are OVER the tires. The car also exhibits a fairly
firm ride now. The rear height is the only thing that deters from the
cars extreme beauty (It looks like the car has broken rear hydraulics,
even though they’re now fixed)!
Any help on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated! Can I
order new “non leveling” springs from the dealer to use with the KYB’s?
Price?
Would like to hear of any similar problems. Thanks for all
replys!
From: jackb@epix.net (Jack Bednarski)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 16:58:13 -0400
Subject: Why buy a Jaguar?
Why own a Jaguar? Is it an elitist status symbol? Is it an expensive TOY??
Some can say yes to both questions. But search deep into your psyches. Do
you love the style and beauty of the car? Do you spend hard earned dollars
to restore and repair these beautiful works of art because you want the rest
of the world to be able to see and appreciate these cars in their original
condition? Do you want to see the marque succeed so you can buy another
model in the future? If I didn’t love the car I wouldn’t bother restoring
it. I can’t imagine a more beautiful car than a Jag.
I feel likre I’m preserving an endanged species.
Jack Bednarski
71 XKE V12
90 XJS VDP
95 XJS V12
From: cobac@ix.netcom.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 17:35:41 -0700
Subject: XJ40 KYB shock conversion
Hi Jag-Lovers!,
I’ve taken the advice of others and have converted the
rear-leveling shocks on my 1989 (XJ40) Vanden Plas to the non-leveling
type. To do this, I purchased the KYB conversion kit (it was almost 1/2
the price of the dealers kit), and installed it in relatively no time!
The problem “now” is, the back of the car sags, and looks as if I have
filled the trunk with cinder blocks (even though nothing is in the car)!
The kit included: 2 KYB shocks (with a dish to hold the spring),
2 very thin spacers (beneath spring), 2 dust boots, and 2 small washers
with nuts for the top of the shocks. Everything (except the small nuts &
washers), were reused from the “old” hydraulic system (including
springs).
I assume the rear fender curves should be slightly ABOVE the
tires, however, mine are OVER the tires. The car also exhibits a fairly
firm ride now. The rear height is the only thing that deters from the
cars extreme beauty (It looks like the car has broken rear hydraulics,
even though they’re now fixed)!
Any help on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated! Can I
order new “non leveling” springs from the dealer to use with the KYB’s?
Price?
Would like to hear of any similar problems. Thanks for all
replys!
From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 96 20:24:46 EDT
Subject: XJ6 ser 2 Air-con Compressor
From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
*** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FE21
*** INTERNET - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM *** IBMMAIL - AUIBMSPM ****
Subject: XJ6 ser 2 Air-con Compressor
In the last week or so, my compressor has been making a chattering
noise for the first few minutes that my air-con is on. The car
sat still at the body shop for 2 weeks, and I’ve just picked it up.
Is this a sign that the compressor is on it’s way out ? It’s not
as cool as it was a few weeks ago. Hopefully the noise is only
because it is low on gas…hope someone can help.
thanks…
420G - '69 babe named Raquel (a fender and paint job away from driving)
XJ6 - '78 series 2 lump (better to lump than to dump)
1990 mitsubishi pajero - for the things I just wouldn’t do in the jags…
(p.s. are the mitsubishi 4wd’s in the US also called ‘Pajero’ ? I
heard that it mean’s ‘wanker’ in Spanish…this must be amusing in
california…‘wanker’ in Aussie lingo means ‘jerk-off’ in Yankee lingo.)
REGARDS…Shane
From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 96 20:36:19 EDT
Subject: XJ6 ser 2 - fresh air intake
From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
*** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FE21
*** INTERNET - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM *** IBMMAIL - AUIBMSPM ****
Subject: XJ6 ser 2 - fresh air intake
Was browsing through my workshop manual on the weekend. For this car
it has fresh air intakes coming from the front headlights, into
the footwells inside the car.
The manual also says that the grill in front of the windscreen that
has the washer jet in it, also is an air-intake.
Can someone please explain where this air intake comes into ? Is it
only for cars without air-con ? From what I can see in the workshop
manual, the air intake for the blowers is next to the fresh air intake
in the footwells. If you pull the fresh air lever, then the air will come
in through the headlights, along a plastic duct, into the footwell, and
will then be blown by the blower fan through the vent system. Is this
how it happens ? I cannot figure out how the air intake in front
of the windscreen comes into the picture…I’m getting fumes from the
car in front through my air-con system, and have the fresh air vents
closed…I need to figure out how these fumes are getting through…
thanks all…
420G - Raquel (curves to die for…)
XJ6 - s/2 lump (better to live with a heart transplant than not at all…)
1990 mitsubishi pajero - (the wifes daily ‘wanker’ …qe mister faulty ?)
REGARDS…Shane
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 29 Jul 96 12:30:51
Subject: Re: Strokin’
Well, I dunno - GTJag of Ohio claims 750 bhp from a normally aspirated 6.0L
V12, and a local (Sydney) Jag workshop has advertised a twin-turbo 6L V12 with
“900+ bhp”. Personally, I’d love to test drive a car with a super-hot V12, but
I have a sneaking suspicion that the 350 or so bhp I expect to get from a
slightly tuned HE AYN (Any Year Now) will harmonise better with the handling
and stopping capabilities of the XJC…
- -Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 29 Jul 96 12:42:55
Subject: Re: -No Subject-
Jach Bednarski :
Do you spend hard earned dollars to restore and repair
these beautiful works of art because you want the rest
of the world to be able to see and appreciate these cars
in their original condition?
There’s probably something wrong with me, as I put the labour and money in so
that I and my nearest and dearest can enjoy an outstandingly wonderful car -
while graciously inviting the rest of the world to take a flying jump. If they
want well-kept Jaguars, let them keep their own Jaguars, says I…
:3+)
-
- Jan
From: Peter Morris pmorris@tfb.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 18:51:07 8
Subject: US '86 XJ6 SIII: Loss of door locking
The other day, I closed the drivers side (left) door, after a short
shopping stop. I immediately heard a consistent ticking sound
emanating from the middle of the door. Raising or lowering the
window, locking and unlocking the doors, shutting power off and on
all had no effect. As I was on my way home, after the hours which my
mechanic closes, I continued on my way. However, about 10 minutes
later the ticking stopped. Hmmm…oh, well.
Next morning, I arrived at work and attempted to lock the doors in my
normal fashion when to my surprise and disappointment, no power door
locks.
Now, I’ve looked at the schematic, and it appears that the door lock
relay is the only item in common with all 4 (5 including the boot)
solenoids. When, over the telephone, I described the symptoms to my
mechanic, who may not have been listening too closely, he said it
might be the solenoid, but he’d get up in there and check it out.
Still, I’d like to think I can figure this one out, myself. The
schematic isn’t very helpful. Where, for instance, IS the door
locking solenoid? In the driver side door (left)?
Any help greatfully accepted!
Regards,
Peter Morris
From: Ben Tobias bte@kaiwan009.kaiwan.com
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 1996 00:47:25 -0700
Subject: Re: Why buy a Jaguar?
Jack Bednarski wrote:
Why own a Jaguar? Is it an elitist status symbol? Is it an expensive TOY??
Some can say yes to both questions. But search deep into your psyches. Do
you love the style and beauty of the car? Do you spend hard earned dollars
to restore and repair these beautiful works of art because you want the rest
of the world to be able to see and appreciate these cars in their original
condition? Do you want to see the marque succeed so you can buy another
model in the future? If I didn’t love the car I wouldn’t bother restoring
it. I can’t imagine a more beautiful car than a Jag.
I feel likre I’m preserving an endanged species.Jack Bednarski
71 XKE V12
90 XJS VDP
95 XJS V12
Of all the mail related to the subject of all or nothing Jaguar ownership I
find this one most to my liking to reply to. Some of the others have been
way too harsh on owners of Elizabeth and cars like her. The problem is I
don’t have enough money to own 3 fine cars like those stated above, and yet
I would like to be. I want to get my foot in the door now before all the
nice bodies have been taken up. Is that wrong?
At no point did I ever say I would never ever change this cars engine to a
MODERN Jaguar engine. Why not? But for those who would insist that I go
back to a 76 engine; well, all I can say is the San Fernando Valley is not
Coventry.
Sincerely;
Ben
bte@kaiwan.com
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 29 Jul 96 12:52:10
Subject: Re: XJ6 ser 2 - fresh air intake
Shane, the intake in front of the windshield is heater+airco. The footwell
vents are probably a leftover from pre-airco days. I’m thinking of converting
mine to cold air intakes for the engine - I can’t see much point in admitting
38 deg C (100F) outside air into an air-conditioned car, and don’t like drawing
heated cooling air into the engine.
-
- Jan
From: fcb@mis.ca (Fred Bramston)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 22:59:10 -0300
Subject: Re: Fuel-pump 74 E-type
Hi folks we’ve had some great discussions this month!and some not so great!
However at this time I'd like to get some info regarding rebuilding
and tuning the dual fuel pump that comes with the S3 E and no doubt most of
the later Jags as I understand.
My fuel pump was causing me sporadic misses on a trip to Old Orchard
Beach(USA) about 14 years ago, and on the way back it really started missing
badly. However it got me to the bridge in Calais Maine (that serves as one
of the main international border crossings to Canada) on a Monday afternoon
of a Canadian Long Weekend. (For those of you who have not experienced a
Monday Afternoon after a long weekend consider L.A. Highway Rush hour
traffic on a one lane road.)
Anyway, She conked out just as I was about to get on the bridge, and
there she stayed.It was my good fortune that I was not 1/2 an hour later as
the stores in Calais would have been closed then. As it was, I had a fifteen
minute walk to the closest autoparts store to purchase their last general
purpose fuel pump. Thank goodness for charge cards(it had been a fun but
expensive weekend).Not to mention a few pieces of hose and clamps and wire
and tape ,etc.etc.I only had one chance to get it right.The whole job took
about two hours from breakdown, to startup.The most fun part was that the
traffic was so crowded at that point in the procession I had absolutely no
place to push it out of the way.
I ended up repairing it (temporarily, so I thought)with the south
bound(USA) traffic passing me on my left within two feet and the Northbound
traffic(Canada) with less than that on my right. Amazingly I got little or
no negative comments and a lot of the people seemed happy to be able to see
her this up close and personal.
I, on the other hand had a face colour to match that of the Jag. for
the whole two hours.Ah well she’d already seen me across Canada a couple of
times so I owed her at least that. Sorry, wasn’t planning to get into this
story right now but someone asked a short while ago about some “stories” and
that’s one of mine.
Anyway as I started to ask, could anyone help me find some info regarding
the fuel pumps? thanks in advance.
Fred.
Again I apologize for the longwindedness.
From: BSherw@aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 22:03:41 -0400
Subject: Differential Access Plug-- XJ-S
Kirby Palm wrote:
I have checked my '83, and it has a
similar opening – except that it is permanently sealed with a metal plug!<
I guess I wasn’t specific- The access hole did have a “permanent” metal plug;
I just popped it out with a screwdriver, did my lube thing, then pressed the
plug back in, with some RTV around the edge.-
Brian Sherwood
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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 29 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 247
XJ6 ser 2 - fresh air intake
RE: 1987 XJ-6 Front Suspension
RE: Why buy a Jaguar?
Re: XJ6 ser 2 - fresh air intake
XJ6 Ride Height
Re: Fuel-pump 74 E-type
Re: XJ ser 2 - fresh air intake
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #243 (Silicone as rust-maker)
US '86 XJ6 SIII: Loss of door locking
Why build a small engine?
Re: XJ40 KYB shock conversion
Lucas Opus system
Re: No turn indicator lights on dash panel/ cruise control defunct
[XJ12 II] Rear end damage
XJS VDP
XJS AC Support Plate
Metal Etch on Cam Covers
Re: Tranny for a Series III XJ6
Re: Tranny for a Series III XJ6
Re: XJS AC Support Plate
From: Tommy loner@peterboro.net
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 22:44:46 -0400
Subject: XJ6 ser 2 - fresh air intake
Hey Shane:
I have no experience on the XJ6 Series 2 but here's what I know about =
an early (1980) Series 3:
-
The fresh air intakes originating from the headlights in the front =
wings is routed to the footwells via 2 inch diameter foil ducts. They =
are only routed to the footwells - nowhere else. -
The heating and air conditioning fan blower uses air originating from =
the intake grill immediately in front of the front windscreen - the =
grill with the washer jets. This is the blower’s only source of fresh =
air. If you remove the grill and feel around “up inside” the cavity I =
believe you will find an opening with the blower. -
There is no connection between the fresh air delivered to the =
footwells and the fresh air used by the fan blower.Having removed both front wings from my 1980 XJ6 I have first hand =
knowledge of the fresh air ventilation. I doubt there were substantial =
changes from Series 2 to Series 3 in this area.Let me know how you make out.
Tommy
loner@peterboro.net
“Lost in the hills of Cavan”
From: Tommy loner@peterboro.net
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 23:04:55 -0400
Subject: RE: 1987 XJ-6 Front Suspension
Hey Justin:
Coincidentally, just last Thursday, I experienced a loose rattling =
sound every time I hit a bump. Paved roads in Cavan are few and far =
between so the rattle was frequent.
I felt the sound was originating from the left front wheel area and =
upon further investigation it was just what Barrie Dawson suggested as a =
possibility for your problem. The anti-roll bar on either end mounts to =
a pin that in turn mounts to the front wheel suspension. This pin =
assembly consists of the pin itself (threaded on both upper and lower =
ends), two rubber bushings and two metal “cup” washers between the pin =
“body” and upper threads, and two rubber bushings and two metal “cup” =
washers between the pin “body” and the lower threads. In my case, one =
washer had rusted out it’s inner hole and was forced over the pin “body” =
allowing a couple of inches of unwanted movement for the anti-roll bar =
mount.
=09
Quick fix - I removed the pin and added some new stainless steel =
washers on either side of the original “cup” washers. No more errant =
sounds.
Easy to inspect as you don't even have to raise the front of the car.
Check it out and let me know how you make out.
Tommy
loner@peterboro.net
“Lost in the hills of Cavan”
From: Tommy loner@peterboro.net
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 23:12:11 -0400
Subject: RE: Why buy a Jaguar?
Hey Jack:
Why buy a Jaguar?
Because it's a sickness!
Tommy
loner@peterboro.net
“Lost in the hills of Cavan”
From: Jack Bednarski[SMTP:jackb@epix.net]
Sent: Sunday, July 28, 1996 4:58 PM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Why buy a Jaguar?
Why own a Jaguar? Is it an elitist status symbol? Is it an expensive TOY??
Some can say yes to both questions. But search deep into your psyches. Do
you love the style and beauty of the car? Do you spend hard earned dollars
to restore and repair these beautiful works of art because you want the rest
of the world to be able to see and appreciate these cars in their original
condition? Do you want to see the marque succeed so you can buy another
model in the future? If I didn’t love the car I wouldn’t bother restoring
it. I can’t imagine a more beautiful car than a Jag.
I feel likre I’m preserving an endanged species.
Jack Bednarski
71 XKE V12
90 XJS VDP
95 XJS V12
From: Tommy loner@peterboro.net
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 23:28:56 -0400
Subject: Re: XJ6 ser 2 - fresh air intake
Hey Jan:
=09
Firstly, if you don’t want fresh air delivered to the interior of the =
car via the fresh air vents why not just close them. On my 1980 XJ6 =
there’s a lever below the dash on each outboard side of the footwells =
marked “air” to open and close the fresh air supply in the footwells. =
Does the Series 2 have this facility?
=09
Secondly, from what I’ve read over the years, the fresh air ventilation =
ducts originating from the headlights to the footwells were not =
originally part of the XJ6/12 configuration. Apparently it was added =
later on due to pressure from the North American market as a source of =
fresh air for ventilation. When it was added I’m not sure, but obviously =
with Series 2 at the latest and maybe as early as some later Series 1’s.
Trivial information, I know. But that's my specialty.
Now if I could only figure out the inner workings of engines and =
transmissions I might be able to follow some of the threads on this =
group! ;>)
Tommy
loner@peterboro.net
“Lost in the hills of Cavan”
From: Tommy loner@peterboro.net
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 23:55:47 -0400
Subject: XJ6 Ride Height
Hey All Jag Lovers:
Cobac's concern over his XJ40 KYB shock conversion has sparked my =
interest in something partially related.
In my 1980 XJ6 Series 3 the rear wing curves are slightly below the top =
of the rear tires and the front wing curves are well above the top of =
the front tires.
Does anyone know what the actual measurements are for the distance from =
the top of the tire to the “roof” of the wheel well, front and rear? Is =
there a technical term for this measurement?
I've frequently wondered if my car was sitting quite right and the only =
way I’ve been able to judge it is by comparison with published =
photographs of similar cars and by “eye”.
Anyone feel like asking their butler to go out to the garage with a =
tape measure?
Tommy
loner@peterboro.net
“Lost in the hills of Cavan”
From: Tommy loner@peterboro.net
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 00:06:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel-pump 74 E-type
Hey Fred:
Not too sure about "tuning" a fuel pump but there are rebuild kits =
available on the market for an SU fuel pump (AUF 305?). This is what’s =
in my 1971 E-Type Series 2 (4.2 litre). Last I checked the price was =
half of a new pump. Approximately $30 U.S. as opposed to $70 U.S. for =
new.
When you say dual fuel pump do you mean dual fuel pumps? There were two =
SU pumps in the E-Type V12, weren’t there?
Anyways, check out SICP and/or XKs Unlimited.
Let me know how you make out.
Tommy
loner@peterboro.net
“Lost in the hills of Cavan”
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 29 Jul 96 14:56:56
Subject: Re: XJ ser 2 - fresh air intake
Tommy :
… if you don’t want fresh air delivered to the interior of the car via the
fresh air vents why not just close them.
Yes, Tommy, of course I keep the silly things closed - at least when the A/C
system is working… I was questioning the design philosophy, not the practical
operation.
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 29 Jul 96 12:18:32
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #243 (Silicone as rust-maker)
To quote the famous Castrol ad, silicones ain’t silicones. Some leave a residue
of acetic acid as they cure, which is a very weak acid but could conceivable
harm bare metal. The trick is to buy “neutral-cure” silicon. I checked out a
spot where I used some of it on bare mild steel about 15 years ago, and it’s
rusted everywhere except where it’s covered by the (transparent) silicone.
No offense, but may I remind originator Tom Carney that it’s a good idea to
make up a meaningful subject line when responding to the digest?
:3+)
-
- Jan
From: Tommy loner@peterboro.net
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 00:21:12 -0400
Subject: US '86 XJ6 SIII: Loss of door locking
Hey Peter:
Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't all doors (including the boot) have =
a door lock solenoid? How else would the power locks be physically =
activated?
As for the relay, I believe it's located under the glove box just above =
or beside the fuse panel inside that access panel on the passenger side. =
There’s a relay board that has three cutout switches - two for power =
windows and one for power locks. I think! I may be way off here! I seem =
to remember fiddlin’ and diddlin’ around with (and eventually replacing =
one or two of) these cutout switches last year to remedy a power window =
challenge. I really can’t remember though. Too much aluminum in my diet, =
you know? ;>)
Let me know how you make out.
Tommy
loner@peterboro.net
“Looking for a good self employment/business opportunity”
From: Tommy loner@peterboro.net
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 00:33:27 -0400
Subject: Why build a small engine?
Hey Kirby:
Two comments:
-
“…since apparently this list has been sucking in my absence” is a =
wee bit harsh. Suffering from uncontrollable duplication, yes, =
“sucking”, no. -
Stupid question more than comment. “…the engine may be =
under-square…” What does “under-square” mean?
Tommy
loner@peterboro.net
“Looking for that perfect business opportunity”
=20
From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 21:01:41 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ40 KYB shock conversion
You might want to research a kit that is only half the price of the
dealers before you put it on the car! To get the proper spring rate and
height you have to change the springs. You can use the stock springs if
you modify the lower spring perch but the spring rate will be too high.
BTW, the KYB shocks are also a lot stiffer than the OEM type. If you
are looking for the proper Jaguar ride stay away from them.
cobac@ix.netcom.com wrote:
Hi Jag-Lovers!,
I’ve taken the advice of others and have converted the
rear-leveling shocks on my 1989 (XJ40) Vanden Plas to the non-leveling
type. To do this, I purchased the KYB conversion kit (it was almost 1/2
the price of the dealers kit)
From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 96 22:24:00 PDT
Subject: Lucas Opus system
Kirby (welcome back, Kirby) gave some details on the Opus Mark 2
electronic ignition and then started a discussion why relocating the
amplifier is usually unsuccessful. I think he gave enough details on
the operation of the system to assume the following: The electronic
pickup is part of the oscillator itself, and thus so are the wires
between the pickup and the amp. Adding significant length of wire -
enough to physically re-site the amp - adds enough parasitics to kill
the oscillator. Either that, or the additional length of wires adds
enough capacitance and inductance (it adds up very quickly) to kill
off the measly signal produced by the pickup. If this is important
enough, we could reverse-engineer the system (draw schematics and
measure parasitics) and understand how much of what kind of wire would
satisfy the circuit requirements and still allow the system to
operate. Unless the system is in an epoxy-potted box, it shouldn't be
that hard, esp. with the SAE paper Kirby has captured.
Reverse-engineering the relocation kit would be very interesting also
- if the amp in the relocation kit is essentially the same as the
stock system with only circuit parameter mods, this could be
documented, then the brave Opus Mark 2 owners could do their own
relocation.
600KHz *was* pretty high for power electronics - in those days.
David (EE)
'70 XKE 2+2 - no fancy electronics - just points and a coil
'84 XJ6 VDP - radiator rodded out and back in as of today, A/C
compressor back in as of today
'87 Volvo 745TGA
From: “Quang Ngo” quang@valleynet.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 22:29:46 -0700
Subject: Re: No turn indicator lights on dash panel/ cruise control defunct
From: Jim Brown brown@ns.net
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: No turn indicator lights on dash panel/ cruise control defunct
Date: Sunday, July 28, 1996 12:44 PMDear List-mates,
[ Some stuff deleted ]
Today’s problem; when activating the turn indicators the external signals
work, the flasher works but the indicator lights on the dash don’t. Sound
familiar to anyone? The cruise control also took a dive this last week.
One
day it was working, the next day nothing. I’d appreciate advice on that
too.
I suspect that it must be something rather minor(I hope) and
characteristic
of the breed.
The cruise control on my 89 XJ40 has the same problem… the problem still
remains. I believe it’s the SET button that causes the problem. If you
open
the cruise control panel you’ll see that the SET button is not well
designed.
- -Quang (quang@valleynet.com)
89 JX40 (black)
89 MBX 300E (red)
From: “Sleeman, Chris” C.Sleeman@praxa.com.au
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 14:53:36 +1000
Subject: [XJ12 II] Rear end damage
All,
Yesterday I had the misfortune of being hit in the rear side by another
car. I was going around a round-about and the other guy didn’t give way.
The car hit the rear LHS wheel and dented / tore the back of the wheel
arch. The impact was not very hard, I would guess that he was going
around 20 to 40 kph.
I have put in an insurance claim, and have already received a quote for
the panel damage ($972AUD). The question I have is regarding the rear
suspension.
The rear wheel doesn’t appear to be damaged, however I am worried that
there could be damage that I can not see to the rear suspension. The car
doesn’t feel bad, but it feels to me like something is different
(probably psychological).
Has anyone else had a similar accident? I would be interested to hear
any suggestions regarding what I should get checked.
Regards,
Chris Sleeman
c.sleeman@praxa.com.au
(Woo Hoo… I now have full access to the WWW!!! - “Who cares” you
say?)
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 07:50:38 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: XJS VDP
90 XJS VDP
Hi Jack,
I was just looking at your car list (nice, nice …) can you tell me
what a XJS VDP is ? I read that there was one prototype XJS Daimler, but I
have never heard about a VDP.
Why own a Jaguar ? I guess it has something to do with childhood memories
[there is a nice commercial on the V12 video cassette on this]
And it’s also value for money fro money. Which else V12 powered car could
you buy for a very reasonable price ?
-
- Matthias
From: averill@earthlink.net (Steve Averill)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 23:33:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: XJS AC Support Plate
Kirby Palm writes about the Jaguar V-12 before he went on vacation:
KP> …this V area is largely blocked – not so
KP> much by the A/C compressor as by the support plate holding up the
KP> front of the compressor.
KP> How about taking the plate out, cutting a big hole in the
KP> middle of it, and putting it back in?
KP> Of course, enough meat needs to be left to support the compressor,
KP> but that should still permit a fairly large opening
It certainly would permit a fairly large opening. I can’t imagine why
Jaguar hasn’t done that themselves over the years. Probably some reason
like AC not being standard on the home market?
Took a close look at the front of XJS’s at the All British Field Meet last
weekend and I think one would be kidding one’s self to think that much of
ANYTHING you could do would improve the airflow much short of just cutting
a giant hole in the bonnet & even THAT might not help much. I knew that
the older XJS’s were a mess under there, but the late 80’s aren’t all that
much better. Makes me feel a whole lot better about sticking with the 6
cylinder jobs!
-Steve A.
'67 E Type Coupe
'76 XJ6C
'91 XJ40
From: averill@earthlink.net (Steve Averill)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 23:33:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Metal Etch on Cam Covers
Way back when, before he went on vacation, Kirby Palm wrote about sticking
brass leaping Jaguars on his cam covers & I suggested that a metal etch
might also look snazzy. Since then, I’ve done a bit of research on the
topic & find that the metal etch isn’t too impractical. Basically, it
consists of using an etching acid in conjunction with a rubber stamp to
make the image, followed by a neutralizer to keep the etch from really
eating into the metal. The acid is available commercially & I even sent
away for a brochure that I haven’t gotten yet.
I found an aircraft specification that gives the mixture, but it only
listed it for steel, not for aluminum castings. Rubber stamps can be made
up in just about any pattern that you’d like (even photos) with the price
depending on the size. If anyone’s interested, I can e-mail them some of
the promising candidate compounds’ ingredient lists and a basic procedure.
I came to the conclusion that a rubber stamp cost more than the decal to
re-apply to my XJ40, though I WILL make a contact print of it in case I
change my mind later…
-Steve A.
'67 E Type Coupe
'76 XJ6C
'91 XJ40
From: averill@earthlink.net (Steve Averill)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 23:33:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Tranny for a Series III XJ6
Harjit Singh wrote:
Would anybody out there know if there is any replacement Transmission
produced by GM or Ford that would replace the original 84 XJ6?
Is there such an animal?
I don’t think there’s anything that’ll bolt up without ANY modifications,
but I seem to recall that John’s Cars of Dallas (they advertize in
Hemming’s Motor News) offers what they call a “Quarterbreed” kit for the
XJ6. It included a modified GM tranny along with parts necessary to mate
it to your XK engine. That’s a lump that won’t be visible even with the
bonnet open & the GM tranny is a nicer unit than the BW.
-Steve A.
'67 E Type Coupe
'76 XJ6C (WITH a BW)
'91 XJ40
From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 09:12:22 +0200
Subject: Re: Tranny for a Series III XJ6
Would anybody out there know if there is any replacement Transmission
produced by GM or Ford that would replace the original 84 XJ6?I don’t think there’s anything that’ll bolt up without ANY modifications,
but I seem to recall that John’s Cars of Dallas (they advertize in
Hemming’s Motor News) offers what they call a “Quarterbreed” kit for the
XJ6. It included a modified GM tranny along with parts necessary to mate
it to your XK engine. That’s a lump that won’t be visible even with the
bonnet open & the GM tranny is a nicer unit than the BW.
Johns Cars do in fact have a website, and info about the “Quarterbreed”
conversion, replacing the BW with T350 or T200-4R/T700R4 overdrives. More
info at http://www.johnscars.com/qb/qb.html
Just to let you know…
Nick
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 29 Jul 96 19:54:26
Subject: Re: XJS AC Support Plate
Steve Averill :
…short of just cutting a giant hole in the bonnet & even THAT might not help
much.
No question, that V12 takes up a lot of engine bay cross-section, and I don’t
believe there’s a great difference between XJ and XJS. From my own little
experimentations, I’ve come to the conclusion that the real problem is the poor
aerodynamics of the front end. No worries at low speed, the fans take care of
that, but at high speed I believe the wrong-way-sloping chin line causes the
air flow to stagnate partly under the belly of the car, making the flow
marginal anywere above 120 km/h (75 mph) or so.
I’ve written before about the significant improvement to cooling I got on my
XJ12C by just moving the numberplate down below the chin intake, where it
serves as a tiny spoiler. I’m convinced that a proper spoiler would bring
further improvement and would incidentally improve the already great road
holding. Proof: a few years ago, two race-tuned XJSs with very prominent air
dams won Australia’s premier super-saloon endurance race 1-2 (the Bathurst
1000) and had no overheating problems whatever, in spite of Australian summer
heat.
As for the heat in the valley behind the air conditioning compressor, I don’t
think it’s a problem as long as the engine coolant temperature is normal - the
heads being fully jacketed, I don’t see how the space between them could get
any hotter than the coolant, apart from whatever heat the compressor gives off.
-
- Jan
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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 29 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 248
Re: Lucas Opus system
“Cooked Engine”
car roller - car titler
Re: Strokin’
Time and $$$ Spent on Jags
Re: Strokin’
Re: Why build a small engine?
Re: Strokin’
Re: Why build a small engine?
New cooling fans for XJ-S HE
[XJ6 early] Low max rpm / Bad coil?
Re: In search of parts XJ6-S1
Local XJ6-C for sale
RE: “Cooked Engine”
Re: Why build a small engine?
E-Type…it’s alive again !
Diavia Air Conditioning
Re: Strokin’
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 29 Jul 96 19:18:04
Subject: Re: Lucas Opus system
This is probably one of those cases where fools blunder in.
I have just swapped out a suspected faulty amplifier (front-mounted) on my '77
XJC for an engine-mounted one off a wrecked engine. I disliked the engine
mounting because of the obvious thermal stress and mounted the amplifier up
front, lengthening the wires as needed. I also replaced the wires right up to
the pickup coil, as they were frayed at the exit from the distributor. I used
fairly heavy wires (“red” crimp connector size) and joined them to the
amplifier wiring only a couple of inches from the amp, using crimp joiners. I
used spade connectors just in front of the distributor, which I crimped and
soldered for security. The wiring is covered by a loose sheath.
Guess what - the spark is fat and blue, the engine starts instantly hot or cold
and runs cleanly and smoothly right up to the redline.
There was one thing that caused me some concern: in the changeover from
engine-mounted to front-mounted amplifiers, Lucas in its wisdom not only
changed the pin-out on the three-pin connector from the distributor, but also
reversed the colours of the leads. I decided to ignore the colours and wired
the thing so as to maintain the order of connections at the pickup head.
As for the amplifier itself, there is precious little pottery involved. I
opened up the suspect one (four small hex-head screws underneath) and found
that while there’s a silicon blob at the cable entry and a silicon slurp for a
seal around the lid, the inside is empty and there is complete access to PC
board and power transistor. No need to $pend up on a new one if it goes belly
up; this unit is eminently repairable.
I hope this has added some clues.
-
- Jan
From: Alan Akeister 100705.3012@CompuServe.COM
Date: 29 Jul 96 07:00:55 EDT
Subject: “Cooked Engine”
Hi All,
I have a question that I hope someone will have a suggestion to;
I am looking at a 1988 XJS V12 with 100,000 miles on for sale at 4,500 GBP
I know he will come down in price. the only thing is that an extra temperature
guage has been fitted to the car and the in-dash one does not work.
What I am afraid of is perhaps the engine has been “Cooked”
Any one know a way (short of dismantalling it) of knowing if this is so?
Best Regards
Alan Akeister
(picking up a Rover 623 GSi company car on Wednesday)
From: “Richard King” kingr@sabc.co.za
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 13:04:39 +0200
Subject: car roller - car titler
Not specifically Jag oriented, but if anyone has a in interest in
rolling/tilting his project car…
http://www.sabc.co.za/units/henley/optical/pvt/cars.htm
…now includes a picture from the “liqui-tilter” brochure, and might
just point you in the right direction. Hope this helps someone.
Richard King
Johannesburg
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 07:15:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Strokin’
Jan Wikstroem:
Well, I dunno - GTJag of Ohio claims 750 bhp from a normally aspirated 6.0L
V12, and a local (Sydney) Jag workshop has advertised a twin-turbo 6L V12 with
“900+ bhp”. Personally, I’d love to test drive a car with a super-hot V12, but
I have a sneaking suspicion that the 350 or so bhp I expect to get from a
slightly tuned HE AYN (Any Year Now) will harmonise better with the handling
and stopping capabilities of the XJC…
Hey, there’s no such thing as too much power. There is, however, a
tremendous difference in the drivability of engines, especially when set up
for performance. I’m sure either of the engines described would drive quite
differently from the stock or near-stock V-12.
However, the 8.1 liter described should be quite streetable. The difference
is between souping up for more hp/litre and just adding litres. If you add
litres while maintaining a comparable hp/litre, you should still be able to
drive it just as readily in downtown traffic – and use the same octane fuel.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 07:15:51 -0400
Subject: Time and $$$ Spent on Jags
Jan Wikstroem:
There’s probably something wrong with me, as I put the labour and money in so
that I and my nearest and dearest can enjoy an outstandingly wonderful car -
while graciously inviting the rest of the world to take a flying jump.
I’ve met Jan’s “nearest and dearest”. The rest of us should be so lucky as
to have a better half that’s as interested in our cars as we are!
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 07:15:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Strokin’
Mike Frank:
Now this is the cool part. They fit two 4.0 AJ6 heads to the motor.Mario James:
You know, they should give out capital punishment for writing posts like
this.
You guys must be new. That particular setup was discussed some time back.
Supposedly, it was nowhere near what it was cracked up to be, would not fit
in the XJ-S engine compartment, weighed a ton, and the company putting it
together apparently skipped the country with a lot of people’s hard earned
cash while being investigated by the Feds or some such.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 07:15:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Why build a small engine?
Stefan Schulz:
Cost. Smaller motor = cheaper build = larger gross margin
The only difference between a 5.3 litre Jaguar V-12 and a 7.0 litre Jaguar
V-12 would be the dimensions of the crank, con rods, pistons, and liners –
and each of these would change so slightly that you’d have to stare at them
REAL close to notice the differences. Cost of production of the engine
would be virtually the same regardless of displacement.
Jaguar only enlarged the V12 after BMW came out with their 5.6 litre engine.
Hey presto, Jaguar topped them with a 6 litre.
IMHO, Jaguar only enlarged their V-12 only because they (finally) realized
that a larger motor wouldn’t scare off their customers. Throughout the 80’s
they were often considering eliminating the V-12 from their production lines
entirely, on the assertion that the customer wanted smaller engines. They
even produced a 6-cyl version of the XJ-S.
All of this, I suppose, only indicates the problems associated with gauging
the American market from across the Atlantic. I coulda told 'em all along
that the 6 litre would sell better, and a 7 litre better yet.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 07:15:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Strokin’
Stefan Schulz:
Well, what kind of torque converter and (auto!) gearbox would be able to take
the resulting torque ?
Actually, the GM 400 is often used for applications with similar loads,
including trucks. But I suspect heavy-duty innards are employed.
The Vector, an American supercar, supposedly uses a GM 400, and it
supposedly has umpteen HP with a huge V-8. Of course, the car is light.
When such a performance application is discussed, the GM 400 is usually the
item of choice – but only after being fitted with high-performance
aftermarket parts.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 07:15:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Why build a small engine?
Phil Bates:
There is an obvious answer. Durability. The thinner the walls of the
cylindars, the shorter their life.
Why? Cylinders typically don’t fail due to thinness. The only time a
thicker wall is advantageous is when you’re planning to bore it during a
rebuild – something that’s done in a vanishingly small percentage of
engines produced. And it isn’t even an issue in engines with wet liners
such as the Jaguar V-12, you simply replace the liners.
Longer strokes put more stress on your
bearings.
By resulting in higher torque, I suppose that’s true. But the loading on
bearings in engines is typically not a problem. The major cause of bearing
wear is startups, not loading. And, remember, most of these engines I’m
talking about ARE offered by the manufacturer in the larger displacements,
and wear rates of bearings have never been an issue in any of them as far as
I know.
What’s more, with the larger displacement configuration, the car may be
fitted with taller cruising gears, lowering the cruise RPM – and this is
likely to INCREASE durability more than any of the above effects will
decrease it.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 11:43:44 GMT
Subject: New cooling fans for XJ-S HE
Well, it’s summer, my XJ-S V12 is getting warm under the bonnet, and I
finally want to get 'round to trying a few of the suggested fixes. ISTR
that there are people on this list who say they have two fans mounted in
front of the radiator covering the entire area.
What I want to know is: How do you install the fans ? In my car there’s
less than an inch between the front crossmember and the radiator. Does
the installation involve a new crossmember ?
Are there kits available or can anyone recommend sources (UK/Europe preferred)
Does anyone in the UK sell Redline Water Wetter ?
TIA
Regards,
Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 13:26:24 +0200
Subject: [XJ6 early] Low max rpm / Bad coil?
Got a “problem” with my series 1 XJ6, with engine from a 420. Can’t
seem to get the rpm higher than around 3500. We have gone over the
carbs, new needles and springs and adjustment. The timing is correct
at idle at least, we haven’t checked for advance.
The engine will rev quite happily up to around 3500, then it just
seems like it hits a rev-limiter. Apart from this the car is running
very well. Hasn’t been this good since I bought it, although the
low max.rpm has been there all the time.
Just curious tho, since the coil looks pretty grimy and old, could
it be a new coil would help? If so, can I put in one of the universal
high-power style coils?
Nick
Nick Johannessen @ Work email: nick@sn.no http://www.sn.no/home/nick/
Phone: +47-2207 3981 Cell : +47-905 95132 Fax: +47-2207 3444
From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 11:27:25 -0700
Subject: Re: In search of parts XJ6-S1
Hi all,
I’ve decided to make another attempt on locating a few items needed for my
'73 Series I XJ-6. I guess most of you have fairly easy access to parts, but
here in Norway it can be rather tough!
These are some of the things I need: (The parts must be new or in perfect
condition)
-
- Rubber seals for right and left NDV-windows (front quarter-lights) and
complete unit with hinge for right hand side.
- Rubber seals for right and left NDV-windows (front quarter-lights) and
-
- Flap control quadrant, which is the centre lever above the radio.
-
- Water valve; that lets hot water into the heater matrix.
-
- Armrest/door pockets in grey vinyl
-
- Interior lamps (placed high up on B-posts) w/lower part chromium plated
-
- Aluminium finishers for radio panel and centre console.
-
- Aluminium finishers for front door thresholds.
If you have something laying about, or you know of anyone that does, please get
in touch.
BTW, I also have some surplus, so if any of you are interested, this is a part
of my current inventory: - Centre sections of rear bumber; one newly chrome
plated (S1) and one a bit tatty, but not rusted (S2).- Flap (air) actuator. -
Filler cap. - interior door handle (new). - Vent. fan (1 of 2)
Ah, and another quick question; Is it possible to lure the headliner padding out
through the rear door of a SWB XJ?? Would somebody care to try so I don’t
ruin mine. >:->.
SOME COMMENTS;
Jim Mankovitz: I don’t know (others probably do…) but could it be a built in
“fader” for the stereo?
Jack Bednarski: Do you really have an XJ-S Vanden Plas? I thought VDP was
reserved for Daimlers, and Daimler XJ-S is, as far as I know, only seen as a
prototype that never went into production.
Shane Mantoszko: The auxiliary air intake from the headlights, through plastic
ducts and into the footwell, has nothing to do with the heating system as such.
It is a direct flow from the headlight grille into the footwell.
The grille in front of the windshield is the (only) air intake for your
heating/ventilation (or AC) system.
Jan Wikstrom: AC or not, you still have these fresh air intakes. You do have
windows even if you have AC, don’t you. that doesn’t mean you have to keep them
open, now does it? ;-). And how do you accomplish drawing heated cooling air
into your engine? Is is air from the car in front of you you’re warried about,
overtake him! ;-@
Best regards,
Baard
______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no
From: wrf@scitec.com (William Frenchu)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 08:15:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Local XJ6-C for sale
While taking a break from the joys of yardwork this weekend, I
stumbled across someone who “must sell” their 1975(?) XJ6-C. I’m
probably not the person you would want to have inspect this car for
you, and I couldn’t find the owner, but this is what a cursory
examination showed:
Car is Silver/Black with Black roof. Didn’t note the mileage. Leather
interior looked surprisingly good through the windows. The wood, on
the other hand looked pretty bad… almost all the varnish was
peeling away. Roof looked pretty good. Vinyl(?) dash is cracked in at
least two places.
I couldn’t decide if it had been repainted at some point or not, but
it would most likely need it soon. There were a lot of fine surface
scratches and some “flaking” areas on sharp bends, for example, on the
body around the bonnet.
There may have been a small ripple on the right front fender, possibly
some past body work?
There was some rust in the rocker panels, and under the front bumper
at least, the latter more extensive.
The owner is asking US$4900 on the sign in the window and claims he
“must sell it” due to an impending move.
Unfortunately, I was on my other British transport (a 1969 Triumph
Daytona) and didn’t have a pencil and paper with me to make a note of
the phone number. If anyone here has any interest in it, I’d be happy
to take a trip out there again. You can reply directly to me (at
wrf@scitec.com).
===========================================================================
Bill Frenchu Scitec, Inc. |“Back when I was a
Work: wrf@scitec.com (609) 921-3892 x224 | boy, we carved our
Web: http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/wrf | own IC’s out of wood.”
From: Graham Watson grahamw@microsoft.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 05:50:21 -0700
Subject: RE: “Cooked Engine”
I would think that the gauge “fix” says more about the way the current
owner did his maintainence than anything else. I can’t see why it should
lead you to think that it has been “cooked”.
You should check the following (at least) :-
-
- Listen to the engine when started from cold, esp under load.
-
- Check for smoke from the exhaust when started ?
-
- Check for any “gunk” in the oil filler cap ?
-
- Take it for a run, what’s it sound like when it’s warmed up ?
-
- When warm, does it run on when you turn off the ignition ?
-
- Check all the spark plugs - after a run they should ideally be light
grey, but perhaps the biggest thing is that they are all the same colour
- Check all the spark plugs - after a run they should ideally be light
-
- if not, you could have a duff cylinder.
-
- Ideally, take a compression tester - you can get one for ?20~30 from
Halfords and use it. If the Current Owner won’t let you use it
…
- Ideally, take a compression tester - you can get one for ?20~30 from
A car with this mileage may also need some suspension work doing - mine
does ! You might arrange with the local Jag dealer that you take the
car in for a look-see. Could be ?100 or so very well spent !
G
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Akeister [SMTP:100705.3012@CompuServe.COM]
Sent: 29 July 1996 12:01
To: Jag Lovers
Subject: “Cooked Engine”
Hi All,
I have a question that I hope someone will have a suggestion to;
I am looking at a 1988 XJS V12 with 100,000 miles on for sale at 4,500
GBP
I know he will come down in price. the only thing is that an extra
temperature
guage has been fitted to the car and the in-dash one does not work.
What I am afraid of is perhaps the engine has been “Cooked”
Any one know a way (short of dismantalling it) of knowing if this is so?
Best Regards
Alan Akeister
(picking up a Rover 623 GSi company car on Wednesday)
From: Cosmo simond@informix.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 14:00:34 +0100
Subject: Re: Why build a small engine?
One reason (in the UK and other parts of Europe) to produce a smaller engine is
for tax purposes. In the old days, cars were rated on calculated HP and then taxed
accordingly. Thus, it became fashionable to have very over (or could be under -
memory fades) square dimensions for the engine as the calculated HP and tax was
lower. Now, we don’t use calculated HP, but simple capacity, to rate cars.
For the UK, these taxes are mainly for company cars where they are not privately
owned. There are various tax bands and you get shafted^H^H^H^H^H^H^Htaxed by the
government accordingly. I can’t remember the bands but it would be advantageous
for a car maker to have different engine sizes for the same car. Utilising the
same block etc throughout the range is an obvious cost saving.
Bit of a moot point for Jags as they would never be in anything but the top band.
Cosmo
83 XJ6
65 Mustang
From: “mark (m.d.) roberts” markdr@nortel.ca
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 09:32:00 -0400
Subject: E-Type…it’s alive again !
It’s alive…it’s alive !!!
After being deadly quite for 14 years 11 months and 2 days,
my E-type has come back to life ! Actually, the car has
been off the road for that long, the engine was rebuilt
20 years ago…and not run…'till yesterday !
What a great feeling. I had a pile of Jaguar bits,
which if correctly assembled, would result in a running
Jaguar…well it’s running…yahoo, yipee, yehaw.
What a wonderful sound, 2000 RPM of tappets clicking
away in their rythym, the pistons doing their 1-5-3-6-2-4
dance, and the exhaust doing their burbling notes,…
and everything so smoooooth !
So, now all I need is to re-do the rear-end (seals, bearings,
hubs, brakes), replace the windshield…again…fix and paint
the nose, get new wheels and tires (tyres), and,…well
drive it ! Yipee !
I had to tell someone !
Regards, Mark Roberts Phone: (613) 763-2924
Ottawa, Ontario, CANADA Fax: (613) 763-3970
1988 VDP - SIII V12 email: markdr@nortel.ca
1963 3.8L E-Type Coupe - 15 years into a 3 year project
…but it’s running !
From: Cosmo simond@informix.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 14:51:08 +0100
Subject: Diavia Air Conditioning
Having just got my Series III XJ6 topped up with R12 I can look forward
to a cool summer, however my first impression is that I’m in for a cool
winter as well. It doesn’t seem very keen to be switched off! It is
not the standard Jaguar equipment but was fitted by a Jag dealer when
first purchased and I have no documentation.
The standard fan/heater controls have been hi-jacked as follows:
Fan control: OFF - RAM - LOW - MED - HIGH
Heat control: VENT - LOW - HEAT - HOT - DEMIST
I’ve guessed OFF ;-), RAM opens the vents to the outside, no A/C. Other
fan settings switch A/C on.
VENT opens the side dash vents and the larger console vent. LOW closes
the console vent. DEMIST opens demister vents to the front screen. Fine
so far, but the HEAT/HOT settings don’t seem to turn the A/C off at
all. Just mix in hot air with the cold from the A/C. I’m sure
this isn’t how it is meant to work. Why would I want the A/C on when
I just want heat?
Looking at regular (factory fitted) A/C I can see a small slider under
the radio for temperature - am I missing this?
When checking something else I did discover something that looks like
a termostat/rotary switch arangement bare, with no knob, tucked behind
the pasenger (left) side of the console cover near the footwell. I
haven’t tried playing with this yet but why isn’t it adjustable from the
cockpit?
Cosmo
83 XJ6
65 Mustang
From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 09:13:15 MDT
Subject: Re: Strokin’
When such a performance application is discussed, the GM 400 is usually the
item of choice – but only after being fitted with high-performance
aftermarket parts.
I can personally vouch for the 400. Its a VERY strong transmission
even in stock form. And it all depends on how its used. Two
relevant experiences with the 400 come tom mind. First, I have a car
that I race in the 1/4 mile - a 1973 Vega with a 500 hp 327 ci V8 and
TH400 that is more or less stock (shift kit). I have had this
tranmission for over 15 years and have put 25-40,000 very abusive
miles on it and it has yet to complain. Second, afriend of mine had
a similar machine - a 69 Chevelle with a 427 V8, supercharger, and a
mostly stock TH400 (shift kit and high stall torque converter). The
motor put out a 800 dyno horsepower. He had some problems with the
torque converter ballooning due to high torque which destroyed the transmission oil
pump. He replaced it with a reinforced torque converter and repaired
the transmission and had no further problems.
Make no mistake, the 400 is almost indestructable. I always tell
people of how my son accidentally put mine in reverse at 55 mph. We
came to a very exciting stop but no damage happened to the
transmission. This same thing happened to a friend of mine with a
TH350, and he had no reverse within 30 miles. Mine has put on 10,000
miles since ! But this transmission is like most other detroit iron,
its very tough but very unsophisticated. Nonetheless, it does the
job.
Kind regards,
Jim Cantrell
76 XJ12C
76 XJ6C
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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 29 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 249
Please help a Jaguar lover
Re: Why build a small engine?
Re: [XJ6 early] Low max rpm / Bad coil?
MKII overheating?
MKII alternator conversion
Re: XJ40 KYB shock conversion
Re: “Cooked Engine”
Re: New cooling fans for XJ-S HE
Diavia Air Conditioning
Re: Strokin’
Thoughts regarding lumps…
re: [XJ6 early] Low max rpm / Bad coil?
GM Transmissions.
Problems with my new XJ-S
Missing
XJS VDP
Radio for E-Type
Daimler 1988 XJ40
From: DavidZ333@aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 11:40:29 -0400
Subject: Please help a Jaguar lover
Jaguar lovers, A couple came upon an XJ6 for sale down the road and nearly
lost their minds with desire. They called me in hopes that I could offer
some advise. My basic advise was to learn about the cars and then decide
what they wanted (would have to be a used vehicle). I assured them that
patience and an intelligent manner would greatly pay off as compared to
impulsiveness.
They accepted that and now want to review various Jaguar passenger cars. Can
anyone recommend a book or books or any practical source that would allow
these folks to make a wise decision. So far they only know about Jaguars
that the grey four door XJ6 down the road was breath taking and that they
must have one. This one happened to be a 1985.
I have recommended the British field days in Illinois in fall, but what would
you suggest until then?
Thank you so much.
Davidz
From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 09:41:09 MDT
Subject: Re: Why build a small engine?
Thought I’d bring up another of my famous topics for discussion, since
apparently this list has been sucking in my absence.
Sucking in your absence ? Now, now Kirby, I know that you are an
opinionated sort but I have to take exception. I might say perahps
considerably more boring in your absence but definately not sucking.
Many engines come in a variety of displacements. The small-block Chevy has
been assembled as everything from the low 200’s up to 370 ci or so.
Probobly illegal or immoral to be a lump expert on the Jaguar net but
it was 262 ci to 400 ci to be exact. Some have even managed to make 440 ci out
of the small block chevy.
It’s also possible that there are durability and other tradeoffs, especially
with maximizing stroke; if the pistons end up with very short skirts, they
may not last as long or run as quietly as a shorter-stroke version allowing
longer skirts.
In the case of the small block chevy, it depended on what you wanted
to use the motor for. In the beginning, the motors were small
(1950’s) since the technology of casting the cylinders was marginal
and the engineers more conservative. As the centering precesion of
casting the bores increased, bores diameters increased significantly.
The same is true of the stroke. Higher stroke meant a redesign of
the crank journals in the Chevy to a larger diameter to withstand the
increased dynamic loads of higher moving masses. In the mid to late
60’s, these problems were overcome and various displcements were
available and were used for different applications. trucks typically
got the longer stroke 350 which had good torque. the 327, which revs
really good due to its shorter stroke, was put into performance and
not so performance cars. The 307, with its long stroke and small
bore, was put in cars trying to be economical since this undersquare
configuration was very comfortable operating at low RPM. Later in
the 70’s, the 400 was introduced and this motor is completely
different from the others (shortened rods, larger crank journals) and
was used in heavy cars and trucks due to long stroke and resulting
good low RPM torque. In the 80’s, as government regulations became
increasingly important, smaller displacement motors, such as the 305,
were used to reduce fuel consumption.
So why is this relevant to the discussion at hand ? This “case
study” shows that there are often a variety of reasons for variable
displacement within a single engine family. 1) Technology 2) Stroke
versus bore (over square better at high RPM and undersqaure better at
low RPM) 3) Fuel economy (oversquare seems to be better - my
empirical judgement) 4) taxes (only for our non-US friends ). In
constructing some of my racing vehicles, I often chose smaller
displacement motors (over square) that are more comfortable at high RPM. Why ?
they are believed to be more durable but this may be a wive’s tale.
Maybe I have simply restated what Kirby said (does this mean that I
agree), but I hope that it helps to shed some light on the subject.
Kind regards,
Jim Cantrell
76 XJ12C
76 XJ6C
66 Alpine 2.8L
From: dlfreeman@ipa.net (Dave & Linda Freeman)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 10:20:19 -0500
Subject: Re: [XJ6 early] Low max rpm / Bad coil?
Got a “problem” with my series 1 XJ6, with engine from a 420. Can’t
seem to get the rpm higher than around 3500. We have gone over the
carbs, new needles and springs and adjustment. The timing is correct
at idle at least, we haven’t checked for advance.The engine will rev quite happily up to around 3500, then it just
seems like it hits a rev-limiter. Apart from this the car is running
very well. Hasn’t been this good since I bought it, although the
low max.rpm has been there all the time.Just curious tho, since the coil looks pretty grimy and old, could
it be a new coil would help? If so, can I put in one of the universal
high-power style coils?Nick
Nick Johannessen @ Work email: nick@sn.no http://www.sn.no/home/nick/
Phone: +47-2207 3981 Cell : +47-905 95132 Fax: +47-2207 3444
Sounds like the symptoms of no advance. Elsewhere on the list someone
talked about rebuilding your distributor using only machine oil to
eliminate stuck mechanical advance. Check it out.
Dave and Linda Freeman
Living the Good Life
From: bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman Wing)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 12:17:20 -0400
Subject: MKII overheating?
While driving along last week in fairly cool weather, the temp on my MKII
sudenly jumped up to about 195=B0F. This alarmed me consideranly, since it
normally runs at 165=B0 and it was a cool night with mo heavy load on the
engine. I could find nothing wrong, and I’m not even sure the gauge was
reading right, since the engine didn’t seem particularly hot. It has since
done the same thing two more times, the temp will climb to 190 very fast
and then stay there steadily for a while and then go back down to 165. Any
ideas? I came up with the following scenarios:
-
The thermostat is sticking closed - entirely possible since it is a Big
A piece of **** -
The gauge is being wierd - unlikely since it is a mechanical VDO gauge,
very good quality I think. -
Some critical cooling port is being periodically blocked by a piece of de=
bris
Since 2 of these require taking the cooling system apart to remedy, if
anyone has heard of anything similar, I’d like to know. Thanks in advance,
Braman
From: bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman Wing)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 12:17:24 -0400
Subject: MKII alternator conversion
Well, the Lucas voltage regulator finally annoyed me enough to convert to
an alternator.(Long story, involving a rainstorm, a forgotten toolkit, and
an impatient girlfriend) I did this on my land Rover last year with great
success(so far) and figured a MKII conversion wouldn’t be too much harder.
The wiring worked out fine, and the positive-negative ground conversion
only took an hour. However, I had planned to use the double-grooved pulley
from the old generator so I wouldn’t have to change all the other pulleys.
Unfortunately, the fan belt is too short for this set up, as the alternator
is considerably wider than the generator. I don’t have much hope of finding
a longer belt, and I’d rather not change all the other pulleys. Has anyone
else done a conversion like this? If so, did you swap pulleys, find a
longer belt, or make new mounting brackets? Thanks in advance,
Braman
From: hdrsons@iamerica.net (Hal Rogers)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 11:24:48 -0600
Subject: Re: XJ40 KYB shock conversion
At 04:05 PM 7/29/96 -0700, cobac@ix.netcom.com wrote:
Hi Jag-Lovers!,
I’ve taken the advice of others and have converted the
rear-leveling shocks on my 1989 (XJ40) Vanden Plas to the non-leveling
type. To do this, I purchased the KYB conversion kit (it was almost 1/2
the price of the dealers kit), and installed it in relatively no time!
The problem “now” is, the back of the car sags, and looks as if I have
filled the trunk with cinder blocks (even though nothing is in the car)!
The kit included: 2 KYB shocks (with a dish to hold the spring),
2 very thin spacers (beneath spring), 2 dust boots, and 2 small washers
with nuts for the top of the shocks. Everything (except the small nuts &
washers), were reused from the “old” hydraulic system (including
springs).
When converting you should change the springs. I do not like the KYB
conversion AT ALL. You really need proper springs AND a better grade of
shock…like Boge (the OE manufacturer). Boge does make the proper shock for
a non-levelling car. Other shocks brands might also be considered but I have
had good experiences with the Boge.
Good Luck!
Hal
Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
Import Auto Specialists
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax
Serving Auto Enthusiasts since 1959
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 12:29:48 -0400
Subject: Re: “Cooked Engine”
Alan Akeister:
What I am afraid of is perhaps the engine has been “Cooked”
Any one know a way (short of dismantalling it) of knowing if this is so?
Before buying any V-12 Jaguar, you should do a compression check. This
should show any serious problems.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 12:29:51 -0400
Subject: Re: New cooling fans for XJ-S HE
Stefan Schulz:
What I want to know is: How do you install the fans ? In my car there’s
less than an inch between the front crossmember and the radiator. Does
the installation involve a new crossmember ?
The crossmember goes diagonally accross the radiator. Install one fan high
and to one side, the other low to the other side, so the crossmember goes
between them. With some of the really flat fans available today, the edge
will fit within that inch.
When choosing fans, get the biggest diameter you can fit – even if the edge
goes beyond the edge of the radiator. I’d suggest cutting out cardboard the
same size as available fans to trial fit before buying, if possible.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Barrie Dawson DAWSONB@btcec3.agw.bt.co.uk
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 96 17:46:57 -0700
Subject: Diavia Air Conditioning
Cosmo
Regarding your question, why does the air-con run all the time?
According to Jaguar the air-con system works as follows:
The incomming air is chilled to remove the moisture then reheated to the required
temperature. As you haven’t got the temperature control unit, graduated in degrees,
the system doesn’t know what temperature setting to set, The slider type control
usually mounted under the radio makes fine ajustments to the air being delivered to
the side vents. The centre vent in the dash will ONLY supply cooled air when
working properly. The climate control servo normally opens and closes the vents in
order to produce an even balance of air thoughout the car.
I hope this helps you in yor quest for a better in car climate.
Barrie Dawson
Chatham, Kent. England
1985 Series 3 Sovereign
From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 10:48:17 MDT
Subject: Re: Strokin’
Kirby wrote:
Since you are so pleased with the beast, how about explaining why they are
so UNreliable when bolted into Jaguars? Almost everyone – myself included
– has to rebuild them long before 100,000 miles, even when properly maintained.
Very curious and generally inconsistant with my experience in the
matter. Maybe it’s Lucas modifications or simply the proximity to the
Lucas components. Seriously, I have had no experiences like that. i
I used to be a professional mechanic and the 400 was never known to
be unreliable. The TH250 was a disaster however and known to be very
unreliable. The one known weak point on the TH400 is the oil pickup
tube assembly. The filter draws oil from the pan and this is passed
vertically through a tube. The o-rings on the filter an at the pump
inlet are known to leak in cold weather which results in pump
cavitation. Another thought occurred to me is that for a Jag, the
specification may have been such that they adjusted the shifting
behavior to be “smoother”. The easy way to do that is with more
clutch slippage during shifts. I drove one jag-400 combination and
it seemed to me that the shifts were very soft compared to the ones
in trucks etc. that I have driven. I like mine to shift firm since they seem to last
longer that way.
Kind regards,
Jim Cantrell
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 13:27:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Thoughts regarding lumps…
I was thinking about the motivations behind the need to swap Chevy
engines into Jags, and came up with the following reasons.
-
Need for More Power – If one wanted to drastically increase the
power of the car, perhaps the easiest and most cost-effective way is a
swap. Jag performance parts are relativelly rare and expensive, compared
to that available for Chevy engines. Regardless of the potential of the
Jag engines (Kirby’s recent postings regarding the potential of these
engines is fascinating), most ‘gearheads’ would probably start with the
swap and deal with engine mods and components that – to them – are well
understood. Kind of staying within their own knowledge universe. -
Need to Work with Something that is Known – A bit of a variant of
the above, but not because of a need for monster power. If you are a
person that depends on your own capabilities, whether by choice or
ignorance (you
just don’t know about the Jag parts and service infrastructure that
exists), and you are faced with the need for serious engine work, you will
probably opt to replace it with something you understand and that you can
support. A while ago, someone posted a message about finding a Jag for
sale by a farmer, who thought the best feature of the car was its Chevy
engine. To him it probably was – he had replaced something he couldn’t
or wouldn’t handle with something entirely within his knowledge universe. -
Need to ‘Do The Right Thing’ as Defined by the Folklore – You may not
agree with the above two scenarios, arguing that people in the above
situations could stroke their motor or winnow out mail order suppliers.
But hopefully you can understand the motivation (I can, and do so
without passing judgement).
This third one, though, to me is the doosie.
How many times have you heard someone talk about something like, say, a
Mercedes diesel car with respect to how they last forever compared to the
gasoline version? WAIT A MINUTE!! The only thing different on these cars
is the engine! Do the suspension bushings and ball joints and alternator
and windshield wiper motor and universal joints (etc, etc) ‘know’ that
there is a diesel in the car, and that they should last longer? Of
course not. Do these cars get ‘better’ parts? Of course not. Assuming
that their life is not being extended by a more conservative driving
style (associated with the more conservative car), the overall life of
the car should be the same. But because popular opinion
assigns these cars the reputation, ‘everyone’ considers that to be the
case, regardless of how these cars really stack up against their gasoline
counterparts.
So the cars are kept longer, and even if the gas version would
have gone as far, the myth is reinforced. And if a diesel car dies
before its time, no one notices because the myth must be kept alive.
So it is, IMHO, with Jags. Everyone ‘knows’ that they are undependable.
And usually its the engine that gets blamed.
I’ve participated on this list for some time, and there seems to be
precious little, if anything, fundamentally wrong with Jag engines.
We all know that is not the case for peripheral systems, like Lucas
electrical components. So maybe the Jag undependability myth has been
fed by this, and the motors take the rap. Makes you feel bad for someone
who swaps in a Chevy to solve a cars problems, when it was not the
engines fault.
A lot of businesses – like John’s Cars – are based on this popular
feeling. Do they replace enough of the cars peripheral systems to solve
the real problem? Or do the owners of the swapped cars turn a blind eye
to continuing problems with A/C systems and so on? (They can afford to,
because by swapping in a Chevy they have ‘done the right thing’ as
far as the folklore is concerned.)
Why doesn’t a "John’s Cars exist to swap Chevys into BMWs or Volvos?
Jag engines routinely last as long, as evidenced by this list.
Maybe BMW and Volvo have better peripheral systems overall, so they are
more ‘balanced’ (everything dies at the same rate), and maybe because
folklore generation is more sensitive to the standard deviation than the mean.
Personally, I wouldn’t ever want to replace my V12, but I – and many of
you – have absolutely no compunction about modifying the peripheral
systems to weed out the real culprits. So we install aftermarket
or alternative electric fans, A/C amps, hood struts, wheel bearings,
u-joints, and so on.
Sorry for the long posting, but I’ve been thinking about this for some
time, and it is a slant on the lump issue that hasn’t been directly
addressed in previous discussions.
Comments?
John
From: Ryan Border rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 10:30:48 -0700
Subject: re: [XJ6 early] Low max rpm / Bad coil?
Hi Nick,
Sounds very very much like the problem I had with my 420 parts. Tuned
carbs, checked timing, replaced ignition, etc. And it still just wouldn’t
pull past about 3500rpm’s.
In my case, the problem was that the air induction system I had was very
different (less restrictive) than the 420 was. The result being that
more air was getting delivered to the engine at higher RPM’s, and the
mixture leaned out as the motor revved. It was fuel starving.
Increasing the fuel pressure helped a little bit; actually it moved
my red-line from 3000 to 3500 or so. What finally solved the problem
was putting some racing needles into the carbs. The needles I used
are “UO” profile; I’m guessing you have the “UM” profile. You mention
that you replaced the needles; but if you replaced them with stock
420 needles then it won’t help. The racing needles are designed for
high performance (low restriction, or no) air intake, and taper so
as to deliver more fuel at higher RPM’s without changing the low
rpm performance.
I don’t know what air intake you’re using; but I’m guessing it’s
the stock S1 XJ6 setup. Seems reasonable that Jaguar may have
improved the design between the 420 and the XJ6, lessening the
restrictions between the intake and the carbs.
New needles are cheap, and easy to install. The difference it made
to my car was simply amazing. Worth a try.
Ryan.
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 13:08:10 -0500
Subject: GM Transmissions.
My '82 xj6 has a TH350 on the back of the Jag 6cyl engine. Twice fluid
lines to the radiator cooler have come lose and the car has come to a stop 5
miles from where the fluid first started flowing onto the ground. (I can
follow the trail it leaves. always 5 miles. The lines apparently under
pressure blew apart.). When it runs out of fluid it quits pulling and it
coasts into the same parking lot where I put the lines back together and
refill it with fluid. Amazingly, no dammage has been done to the
transmission. The thing is bulletproof. I use the car to tow my race car
to the track and back, something I would never have attempted with the BW66.
After the second incident I replaced the connections with brass fittings
instead of hoses and clamps.
Jim
===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"
John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: “Mike Claus” claus@smtp.wg.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 96 14:27:12 EST
Subject: Problems with my new XJ-S
Last week I told you all 'bout my new '93 XJ-S convertible.
There are lots of great things about this car - but I do have
two kind of odd things...
1. At one point the rear quarter window on the LH side
decided to stop coming up when I raised the top. Other side
worked fine. Stayed that way for about a week, then suddenly
started working again. Has worked fine for about 3 weeks now.
Any ideas? Is this a problem that is likely to happen again?
2. The door lock on the drivers (LH) side of the door locks
easily with the key, but will frequently (2 out of 5 times)
not unlock with the key - I will need to unlock the passenger
side door with the key and open the drivers door from the
inside. The local dealer said it required lubrication - which
he performed at no cost (warranty). It worked fine for about
two days - but started again yesterday. Anybody else have
similar problems?
- mclaus
From: “Jeff G. Wardeska” R21JEFF@etsu.etsu-tn.edu
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 96 14:45:55 EDT
Subject: Missing
I would appreciate the combined wisdom of the group. My '84 SIII XJ6 has a ser
ious missing problem under acceleration. The car runs beautifully for the firs
t 2-3 minutes, but as it begins to warm up, the engine sputters under accelerat
ion. I have replaced plugs, wires, distributer cap, advance unit, coil and cle
aned injectors (fuel supply to engine is great). We originally thought problem
was water in tanks (there was) but this has been drained and several tank
fuls run through, without inprovement. Abyone else with this type of experien
ce? Thanks in advance. Jeff
From: jackb@epix.net (Jack Bednarski)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 15:33:53 -0400
Subject: XJS VDP
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 07:50:38 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: XJS VDP
90 XJS VDP
Hi Jack,
I was just looking at your car list (nice, nice …) can you tell me
what a XJS VDP is ? I read that there was one prototype XJS Daimler, but I
have never heard about a VDP.
Why own a Jaguar ? I guess it has something to do with childhood memories
[there is a nice commercial on the V12 video cassette on this]
And it’s also value for money fro money. Which else V12 powered car could
you buy for a very reasonable price ?
-
-
- Matthias
-
This was a typo. The car is a 90 XJ6 VDP. Very sorry for your
inconvenience. You’re right about Jags being reasonable 12 cyl cars.
Jack
From: Felts_Thomas_L/atc_mail5-id@mail5-id.atc.alcoa.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 96 15:41:27 -0400
Subject: Radio for E-Type
Anyone have an “original” radio that will fit in the very limited space
of the console for a 66 E that you want to sell?
Also looking for the speaker covers—the ones that fit in/on/0r over
the side openings.
Tom Felts 412 325 1293
From: Edward Leusink eleusink@dial.pipex.com
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 1996 19:51:26 +0000
Subject: Daimler 1988 XJ40
Hi
I am new to this mail servver and enjoy reading the very enthusiasitic comments about
Jags in general and the very helpful responses in particular.
Have been a very hapy 1988 XJ40 owner for some two years and am based in North London
UK. Acquired the love of Jags since childhood when we had a 3.8 S Type.
A couple of small queries:
-
Anyone know of an independant (read cheaper then main dealer) repairer with a
speciality for Jags based in North London or therabouts? My repairer, although good
and with a liking for Jags, is not up to the speciality stuff like a/c, electrics and so
forth. -
On the a/c front the system works generally ok except occasionally the footwell blows
‘warm’ when it should be cold. Also when the a/c has been working for a few minutes a
‘scrunching’ sound can be heard in the vicinity of the controls. Any ideas? I rather
suspect that the a/c needs some servicing which it never has had since I bought the car.
Many thanks for any responses.
Edward Lesuink
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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 30 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 250
Re: Thoughts regarding lumps…
Local XJ6-C for sale
'83 XJ6 Power Steering Rack Rebuild
Merlin in Rolls Royce
Silicone corrosion
Re: GM Transmissions.
Re: Thoughts regarding lumps…
Re: Missing
Re: Local XJ6-C for sale
E-type article
Re: '83 XJ6 Power Steering Rack Rebuild
Advice for those buying an XJ6
Re: Fuel-pump 74 E-type
XJ6 Series III Fuel Injection, etc
Re: XJ6 Series III Fuel Injection, etc
For Sale: Mark X
Re: Daimler 1988 XJ40
From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 13:59:08 MDT
Subject: Re: Thoughts regarding lumps…
John wrote:
- Need for More Power – If one wanted to drastically increase the
power of the car, perhaps the easiest and most cost-effective way is a
swap. Jag performance parts are relativelly rare and expensive, compared
I have to agree with this. I have a sunbeam Alpine which had a bad
motor. Turned out that I could have rebuilt it, but I wanted more
power. I swapped in a V6 from a german Capri (not an american lump
but a german lump !) to get more power and better access to parts.
Turns out to be a very balanced car and very reliable. But to modify
the origonal engine to get the same horsepower would have sacrificed
drivability and reliability. Its this balance that is the true
virtue of the swap - regardless of what brand into what brand.
- Need to Work with Something that is Known – A bit of a variant of
Probobly true for the corn farmer in N. Dakota but I find this
reasoning to be the most objectionable. A variant on this is what I
call the xenophobic swapper - " why don’t you get rid of that x@#$^%
foreign pice of crap and put a real (aka american) engine in it". I
find these types barely worth my time to discuss the matter. I
beleive that Kirby refers to them as “bubbas” - here in Utha we call
them “rednecks”.
How many times have you heard someone talk about something like, say, a
Mercedes diesel car with respect to how they last forever compared to the
gasoline version? WAIT A MINUTE!! The only thing different on these cars
is the engine! Do the suspension bushings and ball joints and alternator
Aha, another unjust social myth unmasked. I agree.
before its time, no one notices because the myth must be kept alive.
No, that never happens (said with much sarcasm).
I’ve participated on this list for some time, and there seems to be
precious little, if anything, fundamentally wrong with Jag engines.
Hooray, I couldn’t agree more. Besides, if the motors were really
that terrible, Jaguar would have lost lots of money in the long run
and would have either remedied the proiblem or changed. Not strictly
true for all of the car, but a general fact of doing business. I
have driven jag motors many miles. I find that they need close
attention and do have some potential weak spots, but are not unworthy
unreliable pieces of crap. I think the thing that bothers most
people about them is the price of the parts (due to manufacturing
volumes - chevy small block lumps have cheap parts but big block
lumpos are more expensive since there is less demand for parts) and
complexity of the valvetrain. These are not pushrod motors and don’t
have simple valve systems. But I bought my Jaguar XJ12c because it
had a twelve cylinder and I really admire the way that its
engineered and put together. Sure its not easy to work on, but have
you ever tried to change the plugs on a mid 70’s chevy Monza with a
V8 ? No picnic in the park either.
to continuing problems with A/C systems and so on? (They can afford to,
The source of most of my problems.
Good posting John. I agree with much of what you said. I too would
never replace the Jag motors in my cars (I reply “No, I guess that I’m
a purist” to those that suggest it) but I have swapped 8 other motors
in cars that had good reasons to do so. Thus, I would not say that
swapping does not have a place. but by the same token, I’m not
driving a museum piece either just because I still have the 12 in my
XJ12C.
Kind regards,
Jim Cantrell
76 XJ12C
76 XJ6C
66 Alpine 2.8L
From: Joseph Reilly reilly@husc.HARVARD.EDU
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 16:11:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Local XJ6-C for sale
William Frenchu wrote about a 75 XJ6C going for $4900 U.S.. Is this
price correct? I can’t imagine a 75 going for that much unless the motor
was new or the car was never driven at all. I would suspect a gas leak
inside that has clouded the owners judgement. Offer him $1000 if it runs
and order new bank checks because you’ll need 'em.
Joe Reilly
75 XJ6
From: Dan Jensen Dan.Jensen@GAT.COM
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 13:10:42 -0700
Subject: '83 XJ6 Power Steering Rack Rebuild
I just completed a rebuild of the Adwest power steering rack in my '83 SIII
following the somewhat cryptic directions in the factory manual, insights in
Kirby’s handbook, and my successful experience of having done this ~10 years
ago with my '81 SIII. I thought I was being very careful when installing the
rack seals and assembling the unit and I had reasonable expectations of
success. To my great surprise, filling the power steering pump provided
enough head to cause both ends of the rack to leak. You can imagine what
happened when the car was started - a veritable river of ATF. Has anyone who
has attempted this repair ever confronted this? I must have made a BIG error
if an 18" head of fluid can cause leaks to this extent.
Thanks in advance for any insight.
Dan Jensen General Atomics
jensendd@vaxd.gat.com PO Box 85608
San Diego, CA 92186-9784
(619) 455-4158
(619) 455-4111 FAX
From: Ed Mellinger meed@mbari.org
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 13:13:34 -0700
Subject: Merlin in Rolls Royce
I also remember reading somewhere about someone putting a real Merlin engine
in a Rolls Royce Phantom III. The Phantom had to be stretched(!!!) and
strengthed to accept the engine, and the driveline was built up from truck
components. The Merlin yielded about 1200 HP, and the owners comment was
something like “moves great—in a straight line”.
It’s true – this car was at Pebble Beach last year. The comment I
overheard while admiring the thing’s dual 4" exhaust pipes was “Rolls
Royce Funnycar”, which was apt. It silenced conversations from The
Lodge to Carmel Bay each time he fired it up (twice while I was there).
I was quite disappointed that he didn’t win a prize and get to drive up
to the reviewing stand to accept it, as is standard practice at
Pebble…
- -Ed Mellinger, Monterey CA
From: Ed Mellinger meed@mbari.org
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 13:24:41 -0700
Subject: Silicone corrosion
To quote the famous Castrol ad, silicones ain’t silicones. Some leave a residue
of acetic acid as they cure, which is a very weak acid but could conceivable
harm bare metal. The trick is to buy “neutral-cure” silicon. I checked out a
spot where I used some of it on bare mild steel about 15 years ago, and it’s
rusted everywhere except where it’s covered by the (transparent) silicone.
Silicone sealant isn’t permitted in most aircraft applications for this
reason (among others). Two neutral-cure silicones I know of are Dow
Corning 3140 and 3145; one’s an adhesive and one’s a thinner “coating”,
but I’m not sure either is designed to be an engine gasket so buyer
beware. Warning… they are priced like aircraft parts too!
In the “among others” category is the tendency of silicone to squeeze
out in a bead and then peel off in strings… possibly into your engine
oil on its way to a bearing! This definite no-no is the most cited
reason I’ve heard against use of silicone in, er, sensitive areas.
- -Ed Mellinger, Monterey CA
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 16:27:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: GM Transmissions.
How did you bolt up that transmission? Was it a John’s Cars kit? What
parts are used?
John
On Mon, 29 Jul 1996, Jim Isbell wrote:
My '82 xj6 has a TH350 on the back of the Jag 6cyl engine. Twice fluid
lines to the radiator cooler have come lose and the car has come to a stop 5
miles from where the fluid first started flowing onto the ground. (I can
follow the trail it leaves. always 5 miles. The lines apparently under
pressure blew apart.). When it runs out of fluid it quits pulling and it
coasts into the same parking lot where I put the lines back together and
refill it with fluid. Amazingly, no dammage has been done to the
transmission. The thing is bulletproof. I use the car to tow my race car
to the track and back, something I would never have attempted with the BW66.After the second incident I replaced the connections with brass fittings
instead of hoses and clamps.Jim===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"John Wayne
P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 16:51:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Thoughts regarding lumps…
On Mon, 29 Jul 1996, Jim Cantrell wrote:
- Need to Work with Something that is Known – A bit of a variant of
Probobly true for the corn farmer in N. Dakota but I find this
reasoning to be the most objectionable. A variant on this is what I
call the xenophobic swapper - " why don’t you get rid of that x@#$^%
foreign pice of crap and put a real (aka american) engine in it". I
find these types barely worth my time to discuss the matter. I
beleive that Kirby refers to them as “bubbas” - here in Utha we call
them “rednecks”.
I guess that I agree that when ths happens its a shame, but it happens
all the time and it always will. Fortunately, when it happens to a Jag,
at least there were a lot of them made. One occasionallly hears of very
rare automobiles that got weird engines swapped in out in the hinterlands.
How many times have you heard someone talk about something like, say, a
Mercedes diesel car with respect to how they last forever compared to the
gasoline version? WAIT A MINUTE!! The only thing different on these cars
is the engine! Do the suspension bushings and ball joints and alternatorAha, another unjust social myth unmasked. I agree.
before its time, no one notices because the myth must be kept alive.
No, that never happens (said with much sarcasm).
I’ve participated on this list for some time, and there seems to be
precious little, if anything, fundamentally wrong with Jag engines.Hooray, I couldn’t agree more. Besides, if the motors were really
that terrible, Jaguar would have lost lots of money in the long run
and would have either remedied the proiblem or changed. Not strictly
true for all of the car, but a general fact of doing business.
Since Jags are not the only English cars saddled with poor peripheral
systems, why is it that they are the focus? Maybe because they are so
desirable. Less desirable cars get tossed – no one is anxious to put a
350 into a Zephyr (as a former Zephyr owner I can say this! :] ). Cars
like MGs just have ‘character’, and the V8 swap is not as feasible anyway
in these little guys. Jaguar just built itself a niche that most
automakers would spend a great deal of money avoiding.
to continuing problems with A/C systems and so on? (They can afford to,
The source of most of my problems.
Me, too!!!
Good posting John. I agree with much of what you said. I too would
never replace the Jag motors in my cars (I reply “No, I guess that I’m
a purist” to those that suggest it) but I have swapped 8 other motors
in cars that had good reasons to do so. Thus, I would not say that
swapping does not have a place. but by the same token, I’m not
driving a museum piece either just because I still have the 12 in my
XJ12C.
I’ve got a couple of engine swaps under my belt, too – lumps into a '50
Plymouth (my first car and, at age 16, a great way to prove some
naysayers wrong) and a '48 Jeepster later on (ten years of hard work
before minivans became fashionable). Neither project affected the
classic car scene much :]
But why would I ever go from 12 to 8, even if Jag did with the XK8???
Thanks for your response.
John
From: hdrsons@iamerica.net (Hal Rogers)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 16:27:33 -0600
Subject: Re: Missing
At 02:45 PM 7/29/96 EDT, Jeff G. Wardeska wrote:
I would appreciate the combined wisdom of the group. My '84 SIII XJ6 has a ser
ious missing problem under acceleration. The car runs beautifully for the firs
t 2-3 minutes, but as it begins to warm up, the engine sputters under accelerat
ion. I have replaced plugs, wires, distributer cap, advance unit, coil and cle
aned injectors (fuel supply to engine is great). We originally thought problem
was water in tanks (there was) but this has been drained and several tank
fuls run through, without inprovement. Abyone else with this type of experien
ce? Thanks in advance. Jeff
You might consider changing the fuel injection temp sensor. We sell them for
about $19.00. They can cause running problems like you described…more
noticable it seems after engine reaches operating temperature.
Regards,
Hal
Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
Import Auto Specialists
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax
Serving Auto Enthusiasts since 1959
From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 15:28:05 MDT
Subject: Re: Local XJ6-C for sale
William Frenchu wrote about a 75 XJ6C going for $4900 U.S.. Is this
joe wrote:
price correct? I can’t imagine a 75 going for that much unless the motor
was new or the car was never driven at all. I would suspect a gas leak
inside that has clouded the owners judgement. Offer him $1000 if it runs
and order new bank checks because you’ll need 'em.Joe Reilly
75 XJ6
Actually, I believe that although this particular price may be a little too high
(500-1000$) this is the going rate for the rare two door coupes. The
latest prices for a XJ6C is basket case 2-3 k$, medium condition 4-6
k$, and good condition 7-10 k$. I generally steer clear of any of
these if they have rust at all. I can deal with the mechanical
problem, but rotten metal is a nightmare that I would prefer to do
without.
incidentally, I paid 4 k$ for a 76 XJ12C that had a clean rust free
body, bad interior and a good but not running motor. I had to race a
couple of people to the car as the price was very competitive. I
later bought a 76 XJ6C in a similar condition for 2 k$. I think that
Guido was after the guy and he gave me a real steal. I had to wire
the money to him within 24 hours so I suspect that he was in hock
with the local loan shark.
Kind regards,
Jim Cantrell
From: Ryan Border rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 14:39:11 -0700
Subject: E-type article
A good break from the Monday blues…
http://www.caranddriver.com/member/curIssue/aug_96/bedard.html
From: hdrsons@iamerica.net (Hal Rogers)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 17:07:22 -0600
Subject: Re: '83 XJ6 Power Steering Rack Rebuild
At 01:10 PM 7/29/96 -0700, Dan Jensen wrote:
I just completed a rebuild of the Adwest power steering rack in my '83 SIII
following the somewhat cryptic directions in the factory manual, insights in
Kirby’s handbook, and my successful experience of having done this ~10 years
ago with my '81 SIII. I thought I was being very careful when installing the
rack seals and assembling the unit and I had reasonable expectations of
success. To my great surprise, filling the power steering pump provided
enough head to cause both ends of the rack to leak. You can imagine what
happened when the car was started - a veritable river of ATF. Has anyone who
has attempted this repair ever confronted this? I must have made a BIG error
if an 18" head of fluid can cause leaks to this extent.Thanks in advance for any insight.
I, personally do not recommend DIY rack seals replacement because most racks
have wear and pitting on the surface of the inner tube/piston (for lack of a
better term) These really have to be reconditioned for a proper rebuild in
my opinion. Special attention is also necessary as to perfect condition of
the seal kits…I have seen many slight defects on seals that can cause
leaks. This is true especially on aftermarket kits.
Regards,
Hal
Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
Import Auto Specialists
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax
Serving Auto Enthusiasts since 1959
From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 96 16:48:00 PDT
Subject: Advice for those buying an XJ6
David Z.,
An excellent resource is the book 'Jaguar XJ6 - The Complete
Companion'. I think the author is Thorley. With this they'll learn
the nuances of the years and models, and get used to looking at the
details.
Other advice is to thoroughly browse Nick's Jag Web. Lawrence Buja
has written a section they should read:
http://www.oslonett.no/home/nick/monster/ch6.html
Other advice? Introduce them to a really good mechanic, before they
buy anything.
David Shield
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 19:56:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Fuel-pump 74 E-type
Fred:
Repair parts for the “dual” SU pumps are readily available from any the
usual Jag parts dealers. Repair should be straight forward. These pumps are
also used on the early XJ12’s.
I keep a “generic” replacement pump and some tools in the trunk for
emergencies. By all accounts, these SU pumps don’t go very far. I suspect
that this is due, in part, to the additives in modern gasoline.
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
At 10:59 PM 7/28/96 -0300, you wrote:
However at this time I'd like to get some info regarding rebuildingand tuning the dual fuel pump that comes with the S3 E and no doubt most of
the later Jags as I understand.
Anyway as I started to ask, could anyone help me find some info regarding
the fuel pumps? thanks in advance.
From: scoleman@pcl.net (Steve Coleman)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 19:31:59 -0500
Subject: XJ6 Series III Fuel Injection, etc
I have probably gotten myself in way over my head, but I could not help
it. I have this notion that anything that can be adjusted, should be
adjusted. I also suspect components of not functioning correctly unless
explictly tested.
I have been obsessing over my car’s (1987 XJ6 Series III) air flow meter
ever since I discovered that it had been tampered with—maybe even
before that, as I realized soon after I got the car that its gas mileage
was worse the 1985 XJS V12 I owned a few years ago. It seemed to have
especially poor mileage at speeds over 65 MPH, at odds with posts I have
seen on this forum. I have been sure that the fuel/air mixture could be
adjusted to improve the situation. I was just not sure how to do it,
scientifically, at least. I had opened up the air flow meter,
discovered the adjustments that could be done to it, but suspected that
I would probably need a carbon monoxide analyzer to do it properly.
This past weekend, after reading several posts concerning the oxygen
sensor and what its output means, I decided to try some adjustments
using the oxygen sensor as my guide. I went ahead with this, but having
done so, even though the car still runs well, I am questioning the
assumptions I made to do this and wonder if anyone has any advice.
Specifically, I tried to adjust the air flow meter to produce a fairly
flat oxygen sensor voltage over a wide range of RPM (with the
transmission in neutral–should measurements be made under actual
driving conditions?). This output was in the range of .750 to .850
volts, somewhere in the “stoichiometric” to “maximum power” range I
think. Anyway, having done this, I think the engine is in general
running a bit rich–fuel economy seems slightly worse, engine runs
cooler than before. Was my assumption of a flat “lambda” correct, and
if not, what should I be looking for?
I also found that there are elements to the system not described in the
Series III service manual. I decided to check the operation of the
throttle switch. The service manual, and the wiring schematic, indicate
that the “wide open throttle” contact on the switch is connected
directly to two inputs on the ECU. On mine, the WOT contact appears to
be wired in series with a device called the “Lucas Air Switch” which is
then connected to the ECU. This “air switch” receives various other
inputs from the air flow meter. By the time I discovered these
variations my courage was waning and I decided against dismantling the
system any further. However, the “Lucas Air Switch” receives no mention
in my service manual. Does anyone know anything about this part–how it
works, what it is supposed to do? Is it just another step in
performance degradation to meet emission standards?
Steve Coleman, Gadsden, AL
1987 XJ6 Series III
1989 XJ40
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 22:02:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: XJ6 Series III Fuel Injection, etc
I have been obsessing over my car’s (1987 XJ6 Series III) air flow meter
ever since I discovered that it had been tampered with—maybe even
…
This past weekend, after reading several posts concerning the oxygen
sensor and what its output means, I decided to try some adjustments
using the oxygen sensor as my guide. I went ahead with this, but having
done so, even though the car still runs well, I am questioning the
assumptions I made to do this and wonder if anyone has any advice.
Specifically, I tried to adjust the air flow meter to produce a fairly
flat oxygen sensor voltage over a wide range of RPM (with the
transmission in neutral–should measurements be made under actual
driving conditions?). This output was in the range of .750 to .850
volts, somewhere in the “stoichiometric” to “maximum power” range I
think. Anyway, having done this, I think the engine is in general
running a bit rich–fuel economy seems slightly worse, engine runs
cooler than before. Was my assumption of a flat “lambda” correct, and
if not, what should I be looking for?
Yep, wrong assumptions. If this was done with the O2 sensor disconnected,
you’re running way to rich. If it was done with the sensor hooked up, i.e.
the injection trying to lean out to cover, then you’re WAY to rich.
There are two basic adjustments in there; the wiper postion and the clock
spring. These are effectively offset and slope, though they do affect
each other some.
When I set the meters up by hand (not a common task), I aim for .4v with
the sensor disconnected. This must be checked under load, steady state cruising.
Try it at several speeds through the range. Do not worry too much about idle.
Once you’re set up, cruising (sensor hooked up) should produce a contunious
sweep between .3v and .7v. WOT should give around .8v steady.
However, the “Lucas Air Switch” receives no mention
in my service manual. Does anyone know anything about this part–how it
works, what it is supposed to do? Is it just another step in
performance degradation to meet emission standards?
Jag did not use the throttle switch for the standard L-jet things. Instead,
they used it as part of the air injection control. Basicly, the air pump
is only engaged when the system is in open loop. Throttle position and
engine temp are two key parameters.
Steve Coleman, Gadsden, AL
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
From: “Robert C. Paulson” rpaul@west.net
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 21:37:47 -0700
Subject: For Sale: Mark X
Greetings,
Yes, you read it correctly, I know of a 1966 Jaguar Mark X for sale.
Mechanically very sound. It is a great daily driver. To my knowledge the car has
always been in Southern California since importation into the United States.
The car is currently in Santa Barbara California. But it can be driven or shipped
anywhere.
This car will round out your Jaguar car collection. It is a nice second or third (or
second AND third) Jaguar car to have. It seats 8 adults or sleeps four. (Have I
dropped enough hints that this is a BIG car?)
Price? Glad you asked. I’m not sure. It is a lot of car for $6000 (US), but the
owner is open to offers.
Feel free to contact me at the above e-mail address or contract the owner, Clark
Volmar, at phone #(voice): (805) 966-3649, FAX: (805) 564-4118.
Sincerely,
Robert Paulson
1966 3.8 S-type
From: brownd@filon.ml.com (Dave Brown - London Dev X1818)
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 08:56:27 +0100
Subject: Re: Daimler 1988 XJ40
Edward,
I can recommend two independent repair shops ROUND North london, although
tending to the west side:
AWB Motors in Southall 0181-571 5502 (highly recommended by the JEC)
Carwrights in West Harrow 0181-863 1689 (I use these guys as I live round the
corner)
AWB specialise in Jags, everything from complete restorations to spare parts.
Carwrights are a more general classic and sportscar shop, but have a lot of
experience with Jags.
Hope this is of some help.
Regards,
David
David Brown
67 Daimler 250 V8
brownd@ml.com
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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 30 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 251
Door lock surprise
Re: Why build a small engine?
Re: Small engines
Re: MKII alternator conversion
Inlet Manifold Design
GM400 - The Strength Debate
US Engines (small and large)
Re: [XJ6 early] Low max rpm / Bad coil?
Re: US Engines (small and large)
Re: locked trunk
Re: US Engines (small and large)
Re: Local XJ6-C for sale
early xj6 low max rpm
Re: Inlet Manifold Design
Re: GM400 - The Strength Debate
Re: GM400 - The Strength Debate
Re: US Engines (small and large)
Re: Inlet Manifold Design
From: Cosmo simond@informix.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 09:52:31 +0100
Subject: Door lock surprise
I went to lock the car last night and found the key a little stiff but
worked OK. Then I noticed it wasn’t the door key but a completely
unrelated key. Further investigation showed that I could easily unlock
the doors with a 20 pence piece! ACK!
So, how big a deal is it to replace all the lock barrels on an 83 XJ6.
At least 2 doors and 2 petrol caps, anything else? Is it expensive,
tricky, even posible to just replace the worn parts? I would like to
keep just one key, but I guess I could live with different door/fuel
keys.
Help, before someone nicks it.
Cosmo
83 XJ6
65 Mustang
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 05:03:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Why build a small engine?
Jim Cantrell:
it was 262 ci to 400 ci to be exact. Some have even managed to make 440 ci
out
of the small block chevy.
Man! I didn’t know it would go THAT big.
In the beginning, the motors were small
(1950’s) since the technology of casting the cylinders was marginal
and the engineers more conservative. As the centering precesion of
casting the bores increased, bores diameters increased significantly.
I’ll buy that. But why would you ever go BACK to the smaller config?
The same is true of the stroke. Higher stroke meant a redesign of
the crank journals in the Chevy to a larger diameter to withstand the
increased dynamic loads of higher moving masses.
Understandable. But still doesn’t explain why you would ever go BACK to the
smaller journals.
trucks typically
got the longer stroke 350 which had good torque. the 327, which revs
really good due to its shorter stroke, was put into performance and
not so performance cars.
Perhaps a good example to discuss. If you put a longer stroke in the 327,
it would rev lower (at comparable piston/con rod stresses) but would
generate more torque. Would the HP go up or down? Or is all of that
immaterial, Chevy owners don’t care about power, just want it to rev?
The 307, with its long stroke and small
bore, was put in cars trying to be economical since this undersquare
configuration was very comfortable operating at low RPM.
Again, I cannot fathom any real economic benefits. If we keep the same
stroke and enlarge the bore, wouldn’t it pull as well at lower throttle?
Later in
the 70’s, the 400 was introduced and this motor is completely
different from the others (shortened rods, larger crank journals) and
was used in heavy cars and trucks due to long stroke and resulting
good low RPM torque.
Why not bolt it into the lighter cars as well?
In the 80’s, as government regulations became
increasingly important, smaller displacement motors, such as the 305,
were used to reduce fuel consumption.
How? What you need to reduce fuel consumption is LIGHTER motors.
In
constructing some of my racing vehicles, I often chose smaller
displacement motors (over square) that are more comfortable at high RPM.
Why ?
they are believed to be more durable but this may be a wive’s tale.
The key issue in durability is piston/con rod stresses, which vary with
stroke and RPM. When you go to longer stroke, you must sacrifice RPM. In
many racing venues, you are limited to a set displacement, therefore the
higher RPM you can turn that given displacement, the faster you will be.
Hence, over-square engines are popular for these classes.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 05:03:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Small engines
Ryan Border:
Especially in the old days, the first iteration of an engine would be
a conservative one. A design over-engineered so that the chances of
all the new engines failing is small.After a while, weaknesses in the engine could be identified, and corrected,
allowing the displacment to be increased…
I can buy that. But why would you ever go BACK to making the smaller
displacement?
From then on, I think it’s just marketing. You sell 350 small blocks in
your Camaro- so you can charge more for the 400 version in the Corvette.
Now THAT sounds like a reasonable answer!
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 05:04:09 -0400
Subject: Re: MKII alternator conversion
Braman Wing:
I don’t have much hope of finding
a longer belt, and I’d rather not change all the other pulleys.
I would think that finding a longer belt woulda been easier than typing the
message. Please explain why you have little hope.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 05:04:15 -0400
Subject: Inlet Manifold Design
Bill White, the guy who built the 8.1 litre V-12, actually kinda specializes
in tuned intake systems. He told me something that I’ll pass along as a
discussion topic.
On the stock intake manifolds for the Jaguar V-12, the runners going to the
corner cylinders are longer than all the others. According to White, this
can result in as much as 8% more torque from those cylinders than the
others. IOW, the longer tube results in a greater charge to these cylinders.
Now, if this were a carburetted or throttle-body EFI engine, this would be
no big deal. But on a multi-port system, each injector is providing the
same amount of fuel. More air with the same fuel means those cylinders are
running leaner than the others. Either the corners are too lean, or the
others are too rich.
If I understand it right, the oxygen sensors will keep the EFI surfing the
point where oxygen appears in the exhaust. Since this will be the point
where the four corner cylinders run just a hair the lean side of
stochiometric, the other cylinders will always run rich.
One of the intake systems White has created is a pair of intake manifolds
that look almost exactly like the stock parts except that the runners are
much larger – large enough that the inside of these runners is as large as
the outside of the stock manifold. But while he was at it, he addressed the
issue of the corner cylinders. His solution was to have the corner runners
go from round to slightly oval and back to round, negating just enough of
the ram effect to bring those cylinders in line with the other eight.
Testing on single-cylinder rigs showed his manifold provides the same air to
all cylinders within 0.5%. The altered shape of the corner runners isn’t
even noticeable visually unless it’s pointed out.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: “Martin Robert Fooks, WWIS” mfooks@postiss.netherlands.ncr.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 96 10:49:00 PDT
Subject: GM400 - The Strength Debate
Having destroyed 2 TH400 boxes in my XJS within the last year, I thought I
should add my 2 penneth worth to this thread.
YES, the box is in itself pretty strong, even in its original state, but I
would stress that the very weak link in the transmission does seem to be the
Torque Converter.
My first box (Completely standard, mated to 475BHP max) shattered the
original torque converter, sending bits of metal back into the transmission,
rendering it completely un-repairable (right down to the casing).
The second box was built (by the same chap who built the transmission for
that stretched Merlin Engined Roller) with various uprating goodies which
included an uprated torque converter to take the extra power. It seems he
must be loosing it in his old age, as after only 800 Miles I had shattered
this Torque converter, resulting in exactly the same terminal damage to the
Auto box. As a note, this was achieved without even using the Nitrous, so
we are only talking about 325BHP.
The new transmission has been built by a specialist in Holland, using a VERY
much uprated torque converter and the same enhancements in the Transmission
itself. The shifting is now even harsher (the rear wheels tend to break
away very easily upon a gear shift, which my passengers find very impressive
and has also caused me to get on first name terms with my tyre suppliers).
Martin R. Fooks
From: brownd@filon.ml.com (Dave Brown - London Dev X1818)
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 11:31:45 +0100
Subject: US Engines (small and large)
Hi,
With all this talk about small/large block Chevvies, I was wondering. Do
Americans ALWAYS talk about engines in terms of cubic inches ? If one asked the
average American what size his engine was would he respond “two litre” or “X
cubic inches” ? (I can’t be bothered to work out the conversion )
Just curious.
David Brown
brownd@ml.com
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From: Melanie Brackett brackett@uwimona.edu.jm
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 21:29:09 -0500 (GMT-0500)
Subject: Re: [XJ6 early] Low max rpm / Bad coil?
On Mon, 29 Jul 1996, Nick Johannessen wrote:
Got a “problem” with my series 1 XJ6, with engine from a 420. Can’t
seem to get the rpm higher than around 3500. We have gone over the
carbs, new needles and springs and adjustment…
Are you running S.U.'s, Nick? If you are, then I would check the air
filter. No, seriously, the filter, if it is absent or torn will upset the
air/fuel ratio as metered by said carburettor, making it too lean. I
would check this first before anything else (check gasket between the
carbs and the air filter box, the ring gasket ring around the box, that
kind of thing.
If its a jungle out there,
Im glad I’m driving a Jaguar.
Mario James
1972 XJ6 SI
From: Cosmo simond@informix.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 13:34:06 +0100
Subject: Re: US Engines (small and large)
Dave Brown - London Dev X1818 wrote:
With all this talk about small/large block Chevvies, I was wondering. Do
Americans ALWAYS talk about engines in terms of cubic inches ? If one asked the
average American what size his engine was would he respond “two litre” or “X
cubic inches” ?
If yer braggin’ then “there’s no substitute for inches” is a well known phrase
I believe. Most American cars (certainly the vast majority of V8’s) are
specified in cubic inches. The brochure’s may have the liter (sic) equivalent
but if your in a bar talkin to bubba, it’s inches. The only big exception I’ve
seen to this is the 5.0L Mustang (302ci). The Jeep’s being sold in the UK are
badged here as 4.0L but I don’t know if that is a purely UK thing.
Smaller 4 pots may be spec’ed in litres as 91 cubic inches sounds a lot less
impresive than 1500cc.
Cosmo
83 XJ6 4.2L
65 Mustang 289ci
From: cgaudi@gaudi.IExpress.Com (Charles Gaudi)
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 08:36:21 -0400
Subject: Re: locked trunk
Take it to a local locksmith. For about $30.00 they will make you a new key
and open your trunk.
Hi
Last month I bought a 65 ‘S’ type Jag and immediately joined the email group in
the hope of gaining insight and information on the Marque.I asked a question - my boot is shut and locked and I can’t open it, I
wanted to
know if anybody could suggest a way of opening it without using a crow bar.I got “1” reply message telling me the key for the glove box and the boot are
the same, I can’t open the glove box either.SOMEBODY MADE A STUPID BLOODY COMMENT ABOUT HIS CAR IS NOT A TOY AND GETS
DOZENS
OF REPLIES!!!SOMEBODY ELSE MENTIONS TOOLS AND AGAIN WE THRASH SEARS VS HOME DEPOT VS WALL
MARTS TOOLS TO DEATH!!Am I missing something here, aren’t we supposed to be offering help to other
Jaguar owners.I need some help here guys, how about it.
Regards
Steve.
Livermore, CA
1965 ‘S’ Type Jag
1971 Jensen Interceptor MK II
1974 Triumph TR6
1992 Ford Explorer
1993 Kawasaki Ninza 750
From: “John Loftin” john.loftin@ccmail.eo.ray.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 96 07:36:49 EST
Subject: Re: US Engines (small and large)
Yes, Americans usually refer to engine size in cubic inches. The only
possible exception is the 5-liter Mustang, 302 in^3. With large "5.0"
emblems on the sides of the car.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: US Engines (small and large)
Author: brownd@filon.ml.com (Dave Brown - London Dev X1818) at smtp
Date: 7/30/96 08:23 AM
Hi,
With all this talk about small/large block Chevvies, I was wondering. Do
Americans ALWAYS talk about engines in terms of cubic inches ? If one asked the
average American what size his engine was would he respond “two litre” or “X
cubic inches” ? (I can’t be bothered to work out the conversion )
Just curious.
David Brown
brownd@ml.com
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From: wrf@scitec.com (William Frenchu)
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 08:49:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Local XJ6-C for sale
From: Joseph Reilly reilly@husc.HARVARD.EDU
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 16:11:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Local XJ6-C for saleWilliam Frenchu wrote about a 75 XJ6C going for $4900 U.S.. Is thisprice correct? I can’t imagine a 75 going for that much unless the motor
was new or the car was never driven at all. I would suspect a gas leak
inside that has clouded the owners judgement. Offer him $1000 if it runs
and order new bank checks because you’ll need 'em.Joe Reilly
75 XJ6
That’s his initial asking price at least. As no one has expressed
any interest in it, we’ll never know what his actual selling price
might be…
From: “R. Eugene Johnston (smp)” rej@cs.unc.edu
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 09:04:53 -0400
Subject: early xj6 low max rpm
Nick, I had similar problem with my s1 xj6. No power, backfire and
couldn’t get it above about 3500 rpm under load. Found it to be a
faulty vacuum to distributor advance mech. I can’t remember which of
the many vacuum outlets I was using, but with increasing rpm, the
vacuum leveld off, ie no more advance. I changed the vacuum source
( I thnkd I moved it from the carb. to the manifold) and solved
the problem. It’s at least easy to try.
Gene Johnston '72 XJ6 '53MK7
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 09:12:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Inlet Manifold Design
Now this is interesting!
Michael Neal: when V12s cook, is it the ‘outside’ cylinders that suffer
the most?
Are these manifolds available, and at what price?
And what about simply welding on a second or third throttle plate body –
spacing them properly – onto the stock manifold? Might be cheaper and
work just as well (I vaguely remember that someone has done this – Chad
Bolles???).
Could the same balance be achieved by introducing just the right sized
vacuum leak in the center cylinders?
John
On Tue, 30 Jul 1996, Kirby Palm wrote:
Bill White, the guy who built the 8.1 litre V-12, actually kinda specializes
in tuned intake systems. He told me something that I’ll pass along as a
discussion topic.On the stock intake manifolds for the Jaguar V-12, the runners going to the
corner cylinders are longer than all the others. According to White, this
can result in as much as 8% more torque from those cylinders than the
others. IOW, the longer tube results in a greater charge to these cylinders.…But while he was at it, he addressed the
issue of the corner cylinders. His solution was to have the corner runners
go from round to slightly oval and back to round, negating just enough of
the ram effect to bring those cylinders in line with the other eight.
Testing on single-cylinder rigs showed his manifold provides the same air to
all cylinders within 0.5%. The altered shape of the corner runners isn’t
even noticeable visually unless it’s pointed out.-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | -- Palm's Postulate
From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 09:07:43 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: GM400 - The Strength Debate
My first box (Completely standard, mated to 475BHP max) shattered the
original torque converter, sending bits of metal back into the transmission,
…
As a note, this was achieved without even using the Nitrous, so
we are only talking about 325BHP.
Martin,
You are running nitrous on an XJ-S? That is very interesting.
Care to share some of the details of your implementation and
your experiences with this mod? Sounds like you have it
on an otherwise stock engine. Is this correct? Where did
you get the 475BHP figure, dyno or estimate?
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 09:18:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: GM400 - The Strength Debate
A friend of mine has a TH400 in his nitrous, 455ci Olds-powered Firebird
dragster. It is the only part of the car that has never broken. The
trans is heavily modified, and even includes a trans brake (the tranny is
in first and reverse at the same time. Spool up the revs, punch a
solenoid-release button and you’re GONE). The car remains streetable
(although shifts are very harsh).
The components to do just about anything to these trannys are easily
available in the States. E-mail me if you want more info on the mods to
my friend’s tranny. Also, check out B&M Racings web page.
John
On Tue, 30 Jul 1996, Martin Robert Fooks, WWIS wrote:
Having destroyed 2 TH400 boxes in my XJS within the last year, I thought I
should add my 2 penneth worth to this thread.YES, the box is in itself pretty strong, even in its original state, but I
would stress that the very weak link in the transmission does seem to be the
Torque Converter.My first box (Completely standard, mated to 475BHP max) shattered the
original torque converter, sending bits of metal back into the transmission,
rendering it completely un-repairable (right down to the casing).The second box was built (by the same chap who built the transmission for
that stretched Merlin Engined Roller) with various uprating goodies which
included an uprated torque converter to take the extra power. It seems he
must be loosing it in his old age, as after only 800 Miles I had shattered
this Torque converter, resulting in exactly the same terminal damage to the
Auto box. As a note, this was achieved without even using the Nitrous, so
we are only talking about 325BHP.The new transmission has been built by a specialist in Holland, using a VERY
much uprated torque converter and the same enhancements in the Transmission
itself. The shifting is now even harsher (the rear wheels tend to break
away very easily upon a gear shift, which my passengers find very impressive
and has also caused me to get on first name terms with my tyre suppliers).Martin R. Fooks
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 09:29:12 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: US Engines (small and large)
Most Americans still think English, so things like '327 Chevies" and ‘428
Fords’ have meaning in their (our) frame of reference.
Now that the manufacturers refer to engine sizes
metrically, I would bet that a ‘3.8 liter Minivan’ has no meaning to them
whatsoever – meaning that they can not relate it to the equivalent
English unit (“380 cubic inches, right?” :] )
In fact, I’d bet that if they knew just how tiny their new motors were,
compared to their beloved cars of days past, they’d be downright
disappointed. Metric notation for engine sizes must be a Godsend to the
marketing types (much easier to sell a 4.6 liter Ford pick-em-up to one
of Kirby’s bubbas, when these guys know that manly trucks have 350s or,
even better, 454s in them).
John
On Tue, 30 Jul 1996, Dave Brown - London Dev X1818 wrote:
Hi,
With all this talk about small/large block Chevvies, I was wondering. Do
Americans ALWAYS talk about engines in terms of cubic inches ? If one asked the
average American what size his engine was would he respond “two litre” or “X
cubic inches” ? (I can’t be bothered to work out the conversionJust curious.
David Brown
brownd@ml.com
///_/_/_/_/////_///______
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/_/_/_/_/______/_/_/_/______
/_/_/_/_/_/_/________/_/_____
___/_/_/////_/_/_/_/_/______
/_/___/_/_//_/_/_/____
///_/_/_/____/////_///_________
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 15:42:55 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: Inlet Manifold Design
Now this is interesting!
Michael Neal: when V12s cook, is it the ‘outside’ cylinders that suffer
the most?Are these manifolds available, and at what price?
And what about simply welding on a second or third throttle plate body –
spacing them properly – onto the stock manifold? Might be cheaper and
work just as well (I vaguely remember that someone has done this – Chad
Bolles???).Could the same balance be achieved by introducing just the right sized
vacuum leak in the center cylinders?
John,
I think AJ6 Engineering offers also something like this. [both manifolds
and second throttle]
-
- Matthias
(hey, or we can use plastic like on the new XK8 engine !)
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #251
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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 30 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 252
XJ-S Steering Wheel Retrofit
Re: Inlet Manifold Design
Re: Inlet Manifold Design
Re[2]: US Engines (small and large)
Jag engines
Re: MKII alternator conversion
The Jag-Lovers Overheating Guide.
US Engines (small and large)
70 E-Type
Re: looking for new xj6
Re: Missing
“E” bumper question
Re[2]: Inlet Manifold Design
Re: MKII alternator conversion
E-Type ride height saga
Re: Inlet Manifold Design
Re: Re[2]: Inlet Manifold Design
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 09:51:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: XJ-S Steering Wheel Retrofit
Last night I replaced the big, ugly, skinny steering wheel in my '82 XJ-S
with an aftermarket wheel from Grant.
Why a Grant wheel? Simply because they are inexpensive, and I am not at
the point with my car where a more exotic wheel would be appropriate.
Grant wheels are also all interchangeable (a separate adapter is specific
for each car), and they have a large selection of styles.
The wheel I selected is a three-spoke (3-6-9), with the 3 and 9 o’clock
spokes drooped down slightly to form thumbrests. The wheel has a fat
rubber rim and black anodized center section. It is a design clone of
the Momo wheels used in late model Ferraris.
Installation took all of ten minutes. THe center cap of the stock wheel
comes off with two screws from behind. Pull out the horn stalk (long
brass tubing with a plastic cap at the end). Remove the center nut
(15/16" socket).
This is the first of two times I got lucky on this job. I didn’t need a
steering wheel puller! I gently rocked the wheel back and forth – use
‘feeling’ – and it came right off.
Next, install the aluminum (black wrinkle finished) adapter for the new
wheel. (Oh yes, before you start: point the wheels straight ahead!)
Mount this on the spline such that a mounting screw hole is directly ‘up’.
Loosely tighten the center nut (don’t forget the washer). Attach the
steering wheel using the five supplied allen screws, placing the horn
button retaining ring underneath. Tighten the allen screws evenly
and tightly as you would a wheel. Completely tighten te center nut.
Reinsert the horn tube.
Up to now the process is basically as Grant specifies. The next step I
improvised as an expedient (and it seems to have worked out just fine).
Take the Grant horn button and bend the center wiring terminal lug
around in a ‘U’. Take a small piece of foam rubber (I nibbled off a
piece from an old mouse pad) and place it within the ‘U’. The idea is to
prevent the lug from bending in to maintain contact with the center of
the brass tube, but not so much to prevent the horn button assembly from
seating properly. This is the second time I got lucky – I got it on the
first try.
Pop in the horn button assembly and you’re done.
The new wheel is a couple of inches smaller in diameter, which for me
makes the car more comfortable to drive (more knee clearance
underneath). The fore-and-aft adjustment feature should be unaffected,
although I haven’t tried (I run mine all the way ‘in’). The new wheel
has a much better feel than the stock wheel.
IMHO, it looks a lot better, too. Price for the wheel was about $60 US,
and the adapter came in under $30. Now I just need to figure out how to
replace the Grant logo in the center of the horn button with a round
Jaguar head, and I’ll be all set.
John
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 09:57:22 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Inlet Manifold Design
Plastic! That’s the ticket! I can buy me a load of PVC pipe at Home
Depot tonight and glue me up some new intake manifolds!!! Why, I’ll whip
me up a whole bunch of throttle plates out of clothes dryer vents, too!!!
John
On Tue, 30 Jul 1996, Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR wrote:
Now this is interesting!
Michael Neal: when V12s cook, is it the ‘outside’ cylinders that suffer
the most?Are these manifolds available, and at what price?
And what about simply welding on a second or third throttle plate body –
spacing them properly – onto the stock manifold? Might be cheaper and
work just as well (I vaguely remember that someone has done this – Chad
Bolles???).Could the same balance be achieved by introducing just the right sized
vacuum leak in the center cylinders?John,
I think AJ6 Engineering offers also something like this. [both manifolds
and second throttle]
- Matthias
(hey, or we can use plastic like on the new XK8 engine !)
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 16:10:55 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: Inlet Manifold Design
Plastic! That’s the ticket! I can buy me a load of PVC pipe at Home
Depot tonight and glue me up some new intake manifolds!!! Why, I’ll whip
me up a whole bunch of throttle plates out of clothes dryer vents, too!!!
:-))
Well, I was not serious, but now I need to ask : why not have plastic
inlet manifolds ? They should be easier (and cheaper ?) to build and
light weight. Not sure about the cloth dryer vents though
-
- Matthias
From: “Mike Claus” claus@smtp.wg.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 96 10:35:47 EST
Subject: Re[2]: US Engines (small and large)
Way back in '80 I had a Pontiac Trans-Am which had a 5.0
emblazoned on the air scoop - it was actually a 305 CI.
- mclaus
93 XJ-S Convertible
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: US Engines (small and large)
Author: “John Loftin” john.loftin@ccmail.eo.ray.com at WG-RAL-SMTP
Date: 7/30/96 7:36 AM
Yes, Americans usually refer to engine size in cubic inches. The only
possible exception is the 5-liter Mustang, 302 in^3. With large "5.0"
emblems on the sides of the car.
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: US Engines (small and large)
Author: brownd@filon.ml.com (Dave Brown - London Dev X1818) at smtp
Date: 7/30/96 08:23 AM
Hi,
With all this talk about small/large block Chevvies, I was wondering. Do
Americans ALWAYS talk about engines in terms of cubic inches ? If one asked the
average American what size his engine was would he respond “two litre” or “X
cubic inches” ? (I can’t be bothered to work out the conversion )
Just curious.
David Brown
brownd@ml.com
///_/_/_/_/////_///______
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/_/_/_/_/______/_/_/_/______
/_/_/_/_/_/_/________/_/_____
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From: “Victor A. Carreno” vac@air16.larc.nasa.gov
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 10:45:46 -0400
Subject: Jag engines
John Napoli jgn@li.net wrote:
So it is, IMHO, with Jags. Everyone ‘knows’ that they are undependable.
And usually its the engine that gets blamed.
In my personal experience, the contrary is true. The 4.2 litre engine is an
amassing machine. When I bough my 78 XJ6 the points’ gap was so small it
looked as if they were not opening, the timing was so advanced I had to
move the distributor one gear notch to get it within range of calibration,
and the valves were badly out of adjustment. Yet, the engine was running!
This is definitely not the case with the old Toyota, Ford, Datsun, Chrysler
and GM engines I have had.
The only time this Jaguar has stranded some one was when the ground wire
for the fuel pump broke-off. But for the untrained eye it is the engine
that is not running. And of course, if you don’t want this to happen again,
put a GM V8 in there …
Victor.
From: Kirby Palm palmk%gcn.scri.fsu.edu@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 05:04:09 -0400
Subject: Re: MKII alternator conversion
Amen;
I don’t have much hope of finding
a longer belt, and I’d rather not change all the other pulleys.
<I would think that finding a longer belt woulda been easier than typing the
<message. Please explain why you have little hope.
My local parts store has belts in about 1/4 inch increments. It took a couple
of trips to get the right size for my “E” type air conditioner compressor,
but was not a particular problem.
LLoyd, in agreement with… – Palm’s Postulate
From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 09:03:53 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: The Jag-Lovers Overheating Guide.
Friends,
After seeing all the recent questions on overheating Jaguars come across
the list, I rummaged thru my archives and put together some of the
collective wisdom of the Jag-lovers net on the subject. Nick was kind
enough to HTMLify it for the web and put on the Jag-lovers web site at:
http://www.sn.no/home/nick/overheat.html
Note, this is just a guide aimed at the average Jag owner, not a
technical engineering document. I’ve tried to cover all of the main
problem areas without getting bogged down with excessive details or
technical overkill.
Also, this is the first draft of the guide. If anyone sees something
which they feel should be changed added, or deleted, or wants to add
some personal experience, please let me know. I’m very open to
suggestions. The ultimate goal is to create a comprehensive, yet easily
readable reference on the subject to which we can direct future
overheating questions to without having to repeat the same information
every time. The copyright statement is there only to keep it from being
nicked by the “Make $$$ from the Net” types.
At 500+ lines, the Overheating Guide is just too big to post to the jag
list in it’s entirety. So, I’ve included just the intro and table of
contents below. Unfortunately, I’m not in a position to distribute to
distribute individual copies from this account, so please download it
from the net rather than asking me to mail you a copy.
And, yes, I’m still working on the E-type page.
/\ Lawrence Buja http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern/
_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
________________Boulder,Colorado___80307-3000
The Jag-lovers Guide to Overheating Problems
V1.0 (Jul 96)
Lawrence Buja
southern@ncar.ucar.edu
Jaguar XK engines are designed to run within a specified temperature
range and overheating a Jaguar engine can be a very expensive mistake.
With the thermal expansion of the aluminum head being two or three times
that of the iron block, the XK heads are very susceptible to warpage
when overheated. If the engine gets hot enough to seize the pistons,
the damage can be catastrophic. The cost of repairing a heat damaged
engine can range from a minimum of several hundred dollars if you do it
all yourself to several thousand dollars if you have a specialist do it
for you. Needless to say, it pays to watch your temperature gauge
carefully and to take any signs of overheating seriously.
This guide is designed to help you diagnose overheating problems with
your Jaguar. While principly aimed at Jaguar XK engines, it should
apply just as well to other automobiles.
Table of contents:
A. Common causes of overheating:
01. Expired fan clutch.
02. Stuck thermostat.
03. Wrong/expired radiator cap.
04. Coolant leaks, external.
05. Radiator clogged externally.
06. Radiator clogged internally.
07. Engine core clogged internally.
08. Coolant leaks, internal.
09. Incorrect ignition timing.
10. Fuel mixture is too lean.
B. Other, less common, overheating causes.
11. Waterpump failures.
12. Bad auxiliary fan.
13 Exhaust restrictions.
14. Overfilled recovery tank.
15. Dragging brakes (Main or park).
16. High compression.
17. Low engine oil.
C. What to do now?
D. Coolant system pressure discussion.
E. Ignition timing discussion.
F. Modifications to help keep your Jaguar cool.
A. Common causes of overheating:
The basic theory behind water cooled engines is that a liquid coolant is
circulated through the engine, where the liquid conducts heat away from
the engine, to the radiator, where the coolant passes the heat to the
outside air, and back to the engine. While this system sounds quite
simple, there are a number of things which can disrupt it such as:
- Inadequate air circulation past the radiator and engine.
- Restricted coolant circulation through the engine, radiator or hoses.
- Coolant leaks, which reduce the level or pressure of the system.
- An improperly tuned, overloaded or, in the worst case, dying engine.
To get some clues as to why your Jaguar is overheating, there are some
items which you should make note of:
- When does is overheat? Always or only under certain conditions?
- After the car is stopped, does the radiator feel warm?
- Does the coolant level stay full? Are the obvious coolant leaks?
- Is anything else wrong? Bad performance, white exhaust?
Given this information, you are well on the way to finding the source of
the problem. Unfortunately, tracking down the cause of your overheating
isn’t always as straight forward as this list suggests and you may end
up replacing several components before finally solving the problem.
But, don’t give up, perseverance pays off and by carefully noting the
symptoms and learning a little about how your cooling system works, most
cooling problems can be solved by the home mechanic. Finally, given the
potential costs of repairing a heat damaged engine, there is no shame in
taking your Jaguar to a competent mechanic to fix an overheating problem
if you don’t have the time or inclination to repair it yourself.
Below is a list of potential sources of overheating with their symptoms,
a short discussion of the problem and some suggested remedies.
The rest of the text can be found at: http://www.sn.no/home/nick/overheat.html
From: brownd%filon.ml.com@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil (Dave Brown - London Dev X1818)
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 11:31:45 +0100
Subject: US Engines (small and large)
David asks;
<With all this talk about small/large block Chevvies, I was wondering. Do
Americans ALWAYS talk about engines in terms of cubic inches ? If one asked the
<average American what size his engine was would he respond “two litre” or “X
<cubic inches” ? (I can’t be bothered to work out the conversion )
Americans will generally respond in cubic inches, which is the ‘normal’ term
used here. However the younger crowd, and crowd who purchase ‘foreign’ cars
will also know the engine size in liters. I get the feeling many can’t
tell how many liters convert to cubic inches though.
///_/_/_/_/////_///______
LLoyd
From: Steve Patchel spatchel@radford.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 08:18:02 -0700
Subject: 70 E-Type
Jaguar Lovers:
I’m working my way through minor “adventures” associated with my 70 E and
have come across a number of minor items that need attentions, burned out
lamps, variety of loose nuts, door locks needing lubrications, etc.
I do, however, have two questions for the group:
-
I have noticed that the “caps” (through which you add oil to the carb) on
the top of each carb comes unscrewed after about 100 miles of driving. This
occurs on all 3 of the carbs, despite the fact that I have tightened them
myself. One suggestion I heard was to clean the threads with carb cleaner
and then use a bit of “Lock-tight” (sp?), a US product often used to ensure
that nuts don’t come undone. (Maybe we could send some to our political
leaders) I’m a little reluctant to try this as I’m unsure how difficult it
will be to open the “caps” to inspect/add oil. Any input would be appreciated. -
The power antenna does not function. I have looked at the unit in the
boot and can’t quite figure out how it works. I have not tested to determine
if the wires are actually getting any power, but the housing that holds the
actual antenna appears to be separated from some kind round casing (function
unknown). Again any input is appreciated, including “after market
substitutions”.
I’m quite certain that these will not be my last questions.
Thanks in advance.
Stephen Patchel
Consulting Practice Leader
Radford Associates
voice: 408-321-2540
fax: 408-321-2650
From: JHFerrell@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 11:23:44 -0400
Subject: Re: looking for new xj6
i am looking for a mint condition mid-80’s xj6. I own one now, but it
recently had a run-in with a power pole, and i’d like to replace it. any
leads?
thanks
jhferrell@aol.com
From: gprice@Rt66.com (Gregory W. Price)
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 08:06:04 -0600
Subject: Re: Missing
My '85 was doing the same thing. A spade terminal in the wire from the
distributor to the coil had corroded, interrupting (intermittently) the
distributor pickup signal, causing the coil to skip a beat and the engine to
misfire. The spade terminal wasn’t obvious, since it was shrouded by a
plastic protective shield. Mine too would run fine for a few minutes, until
some engine heat would build up. Then it would miss. Almost caused an
accident when I couldn’t accelerate out of an intersection. My guess is
that the spade terminal loosened its grip once it heated up a bit.
I would appreciate the combined wisdom of the group. My '84 SIII XJ6 has a ser
ious missing problem under acceleration. The car runs beautifully for the firs
t 2-3 minutes, but as it begins to warm up, the engine sputters under accelerat
ion. I have replaced plugs, wires, distributer cap, advance unit, coil and cle
aned injectors (fuel supply to engine is great). We originally thought problem
was water in tanks (there was) but this has been drained and several tank
fuls run through, without inprovement. Abyone else with this type of experien
ce? Thanks in advance. Jeff
Gregory W. Price & Company, Ltd
Business research and information management
for those who need it most.
1-800-670-5491
From: LLoyd 3030P@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 96 09:00:04 PDT
Subject: “E” bumper question
Got a question on the rubber that goes along the top of the rear bumper of
the series II “E” type.
For “originality”, do the ends of the rubber get bent around, under and back
along the bumper, or should they be cut off at the front of the bumper where
it wraps around the side?
Am I making myself clear?
LLoyd - with the jag cut in half -
From: “John Loftin” john.loftin@ccmail.eo.ray.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 96 11:18:28 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Inlet Manifold Design
Plastic intake manifolds have two advantages:
1. Weight
2. Heat transfer - The plastic acts as an insulator and does not add
heat to the inlet charge as metal would.
I believe Ford and Chrysler are using plastic intake manifold on some
of their new models.
_
Well, I was not serious, but now I need to ask : why not have plastic
inlet manifolds ? They should be easier (and cheaper ?) to build and
light weight. Not sure about the cloth dryer vents though
-
- Matthias
From: “Lauren E. Pratt” pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 96 10:05:04 PDT
Subject: Re: MKII alternator conversion
I believe the original request for help on this question
stated he wanted to keep the original double v belt and
pulleys, but needed a longer double v belt to accommodate
the mounting of a alternator in place of the generator.
Are you implying the double v belt is available in increments
of 1/4 inch? If so, your parts store must much better equipped
than any I have seen. I believe that a “few” different lengths
are available from the normal Jag parts outlets.
Cheers Lauren
Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 7/30/96
Time: 10:05:04 AM
This message was sent by Chameleon
From: Ed Scripps 73200.2362@CompuServe.COM
Date: 30 Jul 96 12:55:13 EDT
Subject: E-Type ride height saga
I’m still trying to troubleshoot my '66 E-type’s ride height problem.
The rear of the car is one inch lower on the left side. The front is also lower
but not nearly as much.
I checked the torsion bar measurements and the left side is no more than a 1/4"
lower than the right. I can’t see how this could lead to the rear being an 1"
lower.
So recently I took the springs and shocks from the left rear and moved them to
the right rear. My theory being that over the years the left side, having the
weight of the driver and fuel, caused the left springs to weaken. Nice theory
but it was wrong. There’s been no change.
My new theory is that all the springs have lost the ability to return to normal
height. Thus if the weight is on the left side the springs just can’t bring the
car back up to were it should be.
Any thoughts on this possibility? Any other ideas?
Thanks,
- -Ed-
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 13:15:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Inlet Manifold Design
I believe that many cars do have plastic intake manifolds these days.
BMW may have been first on their V12, ostensibly to reduce noise. Even
garden-variety GM V6s have plastic intakes these days.
Of course, the material used is undoubtedly carefully formulated for
correct behavior under a wide range of temperatures.
John
On Tue, 30 Jul 1996, Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR wrote:
Plastic! That’s the ticket! I can buy me a load of PVC pipe at Home
Depot tonight and glue me up some new intake manifolds!!! Why, I’ll whip
me up a whole bunch of throttle plates out of clothes dryer vents, too!!!
:-))
Well, I was not serious, but now I need to ask : why not have plastic
inlet manifolds ? They should be easier (and cheaper ?) to build and
light weight. Not sure about the cloth dryer vents though
- Matthias
From: aek@netcom.com (Andrew Kalman)
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 10:27:50 -0700
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Inlet Manifold Design
Hi All.
John Loftin wrote:
Plastic intake manifolds have two advantages: 1. Weight 2. Heat transfer - The plastic acts as an insulator and does not add heat to the inlet charge as metal would. I believe Ford and Chrysler are using plastic intake manifold on some of their new models.
BMW has been using a one-piece plastic manifold in their 2.5l and 3.0l (and
now 3.2l) 6-cylinder 24-valve engine (e.g. what’s in the E36-body 325i/is,
328i/is, and M3) for several years now.
There were also plastic intake runners available for a short time on the
2002tii (early 70’s), but I believe there were some problems involved
(cracking?), so later cars used aluminum runners, as did all the BMW
engines that followed w/separate runners (e.g. in the 320i, and all the
“big 6” cars).
Another place where one occasionally sees plastic used is on intake
horns, e.g. on the BMW M1’s M88 engine (6 big red 5"-long plastic horns
going to the individual throttle bodies for each cylinder) –
unfortunately, in street trim these horns are hidden deep inside the air
filter housing.
This is not meant as a BMW plug, but rather a perspective on another car
company’s approach.
| Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@netcom.com |
| standard disclaimers apply |
|___________________________________________|
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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 30 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 253
Re: Daimler 1988 XJ40 - London repairers
Re: Jag engines
RQ R!@ R12 (finally)
For John Elmgreen re XK150 luggage rack.
Re: E-Type ride height saga
For John Elmgreen re XK150 luggage rack.
Reliability of 4.2l engine
XJ6 or XJ40 as daily driver?
Re: MKII alternator conversion
Re: Jag engines
GM 400 pump cavitation
'88 XJ-S (UK spec) windscreen wipers
Re: Inlet Manifold Design
Whining axle/brakes/u-joints???
plastic intakes
Chevy lumps…etc
Hello
RE: “Cooked Engine”
Re: E-type article…
From: “Peter Hamel (h)” pete-hamel@dial.pipex.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 18:40:53 +0000
Subject: Re: Daimler 1988 XJ40 - London repairers
Edward,
You could try the Jaguar Car Clinic on 0171 700 6424/7. I don’t know if
they are up to a/c and the like but they can probably handle most other
things, and they will be a lot cheaper than a dealer. They are near Kings
Cross.
Regards
Pete Hamel
Edward Leusink wrote:
Hi
A couple of small queries:
- Anyone know of an independant (read cheaper then main dealer) repairer with a
speciality for Jags based in North London or therabouts? My repairer, although good
and with a liking for Jags, is not up to the speciality stuff like a/c, electrics and so
forth.
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 13:55:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Jag engines
I don’t doubt your experiences. My point is that ‘popular opinion’
maligns Jags, and the engine is the first to be blamed.
When I first got my XJ-S it had a very straightforward problem that the
PO was unable to have properly diagnosed and fixed. It drove him to sell
the car for a low price. It is not too hard to imagine an unscrupulous
or inexperienced shop coming up with an exorbitant quote or repair bill,
either. So the hapless former owner stands around the cocktail party
regaling his tale of woe, listeners commiserate with him, and the myth is
both reinforced and continued.
At the risk of wasting bandwidth, here’s another example of how myths
endure. This is completely true and exactly what happened.
A couple of years ago, I had to take one of our two dogs to the
Animal Medical Center in NYC for specialized treatment. Because we were
to be out all day, I took both dogs with us. Both were in separate cages
in the back of my pick-em-up. After dropping off the one dog, I suggested
to my wife that we pass thru Chinatown to pick up some pastry for the
friends we were going to visit on the way home.
Now Chinatown in NYC is in an area with narrow streets, so I parked half
up the sidewalk, which is normal in the area.
So here I am, clean fancy truck (out of character for the area),
on sidewalk, dog in one cage, other cage empty. Needless to say,
it drew a lot of attention. My wife went
into one of our favorite restaurants to pick up the pastry.
I’m sitting on the tailgate, waiting for her, and petting the other dog.
At this point a tourist walked up. Clearly an out-of-towner, Caucasian,
with an Asian companion. “What’s the story?”, he asks. “What do you
mean?”, said I. “You know, the truck, the dog, the cage.”, he says.
Never one to pass up a straight line, I pointed out the restaurant and
replied: “Oh, I sell dogs to the restaurants.”, expecting him and his
companion to laugh. (As luck would have it, at that moment my wife came
out, counting her change, which added to the illusion of what follows.)
Instead, he turns to his companion and says “I thought you all didn’t
do that anymore!”. She was obviously very embarrassed by the whole thing.
The point is that it is very difficult to displace a well-held myth.
(For those that are interested, after a comprehensive course of treatment,
the other dog didn’t make it.)
John
On Tue, 30 Jul 1996, Victor A. Carreno wrote:
John Napoli jgn@li.net wrote:
So it is, IMHO, with Jags. Everyone ‘knows’ that they are undependable.
And usually its the engine that gets blamed.In my personal experience, the contrary is true. The 4.2 litre engine is an
amassing machine. When I bough my 78 XJ6 the points’ gap was so small it
looked as if they were not opening, the timing was so advanced I had to
move the distributor one gear notch to get it within range of calibration,
and the valves were badly out of adjustment. Yet, the engine was running!
This is definitely not the case with the old Toyota, Ford, Datsun, Chrysler
and GM engines I have had.The only time this Jaguar has stranded some one was when the ground wire
for the fuel pump broke-off. But for the untrained eye it is the engine
that is not running. And of course, if you don’t want this to happen again,
put a GM V8 in there …Victor.
From: henning@fp.com (Eric Henning)
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 14:07:38 -0400
Subject: RQ R!@ R12 (finally)
Firstly, thanks to all who responded to my Series I XJ6 purchase inquiry.
For the record i have not yet purchased it (it is still available). I am
still amazed at the lack of interest in these cars from the general public
as far as owning one goes. I guess it takes a special kind of person
(please nobody mis-interprete this as no one on this list is disinterested,
it’s just that you can find very good samples for little $$$)
Now, to re-hash the A/C refrigerant issue. I just got back from PEP Boys
(eastern USA auto chain parts store) and right in the middle of the floor
they were selling R-12 in 12 oz cans ($5.00 a can) and 30lb tanks.
Small print said you must be a certified tech. to purchase. So…,
if any of you happen to be certified techs and need a ready source,
there you go. Maybe you could pick up a couple cans for me
Also I saw an add for a '75 XJ coupe in the Philly area, $5,000.00 so now
we have two in the greater PHilly area to choose as discussed in this forum.
Later dudes,
Eric
henning@fp.com
From: Gordon Airs gordon@airs.demon.co.uk
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 17:57:35 GMT
Subject: For John Elmgreen re XK150 luggage rack.
John, Many thanks for your prompt e-mail and your equally prompt air
mail letter. I have now been in touch with a small firm in England and
they hope to find me one to fit the original bolt holes. Here’s
hoping!
Incidentally, next week I am having my seats and leather interior
replaced with fine new green leather supplied by the company - just
three miles from my village - which does the leather seating for Saab,
Volvo, Renault, airlines, and the infamous House of Commons!
It’s called the Bridge of Weir Leather Co so it should just about
finish off my car beautifully. If you like when it is all finished I
will send you a photo showing the luggge rack etc. Thanks
again for your interest and help. By the way I see your are named in
this month’s Jaguar World article on jag-lovers internet…
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 14:27:52 -0400
Subject: Re: E-Type ride height saga
On Jul 30, 12:55pm, Ed Scripps wrote:
Subject: E-Type ride height saga
I’m still trying to troubleshoot my '66 E-type’s ride height problem.
The rear of the car is one inch lower on the left side. The front is also
lower
but not nearly as much.
I checked the torsion bar measurements and the left side is no more than a
1/4"
lower than the right. I can’t see how this could lead to the rear being an
1"
lower.So recently I took the springs and shocks from the left rear and moved them
to
the right rear. My theory being that over the years the left side, having
the
weight of the driver and fuel, caused the left springs to weaken. Nice
theory
but it was wrong. There’s been no change.
This is weird, a guy I work with has the same problem w/ his S2 coupe and
tried to solve it by borrowing the spring/shock units off of my (disasembled)
Etype(which used to sit level) to see if it would help, he was met w/ similar
results - no change, still sits lower on the right! He just gave up. Maybe the
cage is bent?
Mark McChesney
you know he never gave the springs back…
From: Gordon Airs gordon@airs.demon.co.uk
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 17:58:32 GMT
Subject: For John Elmgreen re XK150 luggage rack.
John, Many thanks for your prompt e-mail and your equally prompt air
mail letter. I have now been in touch with a small firm in England and
they hope to find me one to fit the original bolt holes. Here’s
hoping!
Incidentally, next week I am having my seats and leather interior
replaced with fine new green leather supplied by the company - just
three miles from my village - which does the leather seating for Saab,
Volvo, Renault, airlines, and the infamous House of Commons!
It’s called the Bridge of Weir Leather Co so it should just about
finish off my car beautifully. If you like when it is all finished I
will send you a photo showing the luggge rack etc. Thanks
again for your interest and help. By the way I see your are named in
this month’s Jaguar World article on jag-lovers internet…
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 13:46:05 -0500
Subject: Reliability of 4.2l engine
John Napoli jgn@li.net wrote:
So it is, IMHO, with Jags. Everyone ‘knows’ that they are undependable.
And usually its the engine that gets blamed.
My '82 had 52,000 miles on it when I got it. I have no idea what kind of
maintenance it got, but I suspect very poor.
It now has 115,000 miles on it (4 years). The maintenance has been
impecable. I pull a trailer with a race car on it (2200 lbs). I race it on
occasion and have had it above 120mph since it turned 100,000 miles. In
fact it turned 100,000 in turn #1 while passing a Ferrari 308GTB at
TexasWorld Speedway. (I am not too sure of the exact location. As you can
immagine my eyes were not spending much time on the odometer at that
moment.) I cannot imagine a more reliable engine. In fact after the
“total” of my car by my wife I am pulling the engine (even though it has
115,000 miles on it) and transmission to put into another XJ6 (the engine in
the new XJ6 has 77,000 miles on it and may be fine, but I know my engine is
fine, so out goes the “new” one).
I am also considering “pulling” my wife from behind the wheel…#8-)
“Prefiero morrir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”
Gen. Emiliano Zapata
1879-1919
From: cuno@macworld.ch (Cuno Schneeberger)
Date: 30 Jul 1996 20:58:40 GMT
Subject: XJ6 or XJ40 as daily driver?
Hey Jag-Lovers!
I need your opinion. I’m thinking about buying a low miles XJ6 series 3 (85,
86) or a newer XJ40 (92, 93) as a daily driver (I drive around 15K miles a
year). I read that the later series 3 XJ6s are supposed to be reliable but
I’m reluctant to buy a ten year old car as a daily driver. On the other hand
I was told that the XJ40s have notorious electronic problems (and they don’t
look half as nice as the XJ6s). I might add that I have absolutely no
experience in fixing cars myself and I don’t want to spend every other
weekend in the garage trying to get the lady running again.
What do you suggest, should I get a newer XJ40 or one of the last XJ6s?
Thanks
Cuno
90 XJS V12
From: bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman Wing)
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 15:07:13 -0400
Subject: Re: MKII alternator conversion
I am not sure we are on the same wavelength here; the MKII belt I am
referring to has a double groove design something like this:
belt cross-section:
| _ |
_/ _/
pulley profile:
|_/_/|
| |
| _ _ |
|/ / |
Sorry about my poor art, but hopefully it shows what I’m talking about. If
these belts are indeed common, I guess I’m in luck, but I wasn’t aware that
they were. I haven’t been able to find one in the past without going to a
Jag place.
Braman
From: “Victor A. Carreno” vac@air16.larc.nasa.gov
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 15:30:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Jag engines
I don’t doubt your experiences. My point is that ‘popular opinion’
maligns Jags, and the engine is the first to be blamed.
John,
I understand your point completely. I was adding that not only Jaguar
engines are as reliable as other car engines but that in my experience
Jaguar engines are more tolerant to abuses than other engines. The last
sentence on my posting was supposed to be a sarcastic remark:
Your engine is not running because it doesn’t have gasoline. Hence, the
engine is no good.
Victor.
From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 13:31:10 GMT
Subject: GM 400 pump cavitation
In message 6269CA2F2D@sysdiv.sdl.usu.edu “Jim Cantrell” writes:
The one known weak point on the TH400 is the oil pickup
tube assembly. The filter draws oil from the pan and this is passed
vertically through a tube. The o-rings on the filter an at the pump
inlet are known to leak in cold weather which results in pump
cavitation.
So THAT’s my mine whines in cold weather until it’s warmed up ! Been
wondering for ages. Is there an easy fix ?
Regards,
Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 19:24:52 GMT
Subject: '88 XJ-S (UK spec) windscreen wipers
The service manual is wrong, presumably describing an earlier version of
the motor and mechanics. Mine has an Electrolux (not Lucas!) motor
and proper steel mechanics rather than the flimsy plastic arrangement
shown in the manual.
Doesn’t stop it from playing up though. The whole contraption seized
completely yesterday, I took it apart and cleaned things out as best as
I could. Noticed the following weak points requiring preventive
maintenance, hence this post:
- The wiper arms rotate on shafts in primitive (bronze ?) bushes. It
looked like these bushes are really two each side, one held by the large
nut visible from the outside, the other screwed in from underneath and
held in place by a grub screw. Screwed into what ? Er, the cast aluminium,
iron, or whatever of the grid above. As a result there is a zone between
the two where water will seep in sooner or later and meet a less noble
metal than the bushing itself. Corrosion and seizure ensues. Brilliant
design. NOT.
Fixed it by first prying the shafts out of the bushings, using the
usual combination of WD-40, swear words and brute force. Doing a bit
of archaeology and digging out the circlips that hold them in place
from underneath all the corrosion helped a lot here. Cleaned shafts
and bushings, lubricated with Molybdenumdisulphide grease and put the lot
back together again.
-
Several participants on the list have commented on how the rubber
boot over their wiper motor came apart and let water into the wiper
motor proper. Unbelievably, mine was A-OK after eight years in the
car. So there may be a better part now in case anyone needs a
replacement. -
The wiper motor multiplug looks like lots of Lucas bullet connectors
in a common case. Arrgh. Cleaned it as best I could. -
All hinges of the mechanics got a once-over with spray-on grease.
-
The small bolts holding the grid in place on the side that’s nearer
the windscreen are easily overtorqued. Ahem. They consist of an unneces-
sarily complicated-looking metal-rubber-metal contraption which, if the
top end is sheared off, will have to have the bottom end drilled out
because it’s corroded into place. Can be replaced with a suitable M4
bolt and a few rubber and metal washers in the right places, though. -
Out of curiosity I opened the motor gears while I had the rest apart
anyway. They looked in OK shape, considering.
On the whole, this design (whatever its part number) seems better than
the Lucas thing others complain about, but it does need TLC and grease,
not just on the levers and hinges, but more importantly, the wiper
arm shafts and bushes. Nice of Jaguar to tell us that.
Regards,
Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
From: John Napoli jgn%li.net@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 13:15:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Inlet Manifold Design
Yes,
<I believe that many cars do have plastic intake manifolds these days.
<…
<Of course, the material used is undoubtedly carefully formulated for
<correct behavior under a wide range of temperatures.
That is absolutely right. Be sure to use the high temp PVC.
…and super-glue… LLoyd
From: Trond Vidar Olsen Trond.Vidar.Olsen@hrp.no
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 96 22:03:35 +0200
Subject: Whining axle/brakes/u-joints???
Hi,
My '66 XKE has started to develop a whining sound from the rear,
anyone have a clue what to look at first?
Also, I am wondering about installing a Kenlowe radiator fan kit
instead of the original stuff,…is it worth it?
thanks,
Trond V.
From: Ed Mellinger meed@mbari.org
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 13:20:32 -0700
Subject: plastic intakes
There were also plastic intake runners available for a short time on the
2002tii (early 70’s), but I believe there were some problems involved(cracking?).
Actually what the plastic runners did was to suck down flat like a soggy
soda straw. BMW went to aluminum after '71.
It’s really a fairly difficult application for plastic, going from
sub-zero cold starts to hot shutdown while bolted to a scalding hot
cylinder head, while withstanding millions of cycles from 0 to 1
atmosphere, with an occasional backfire spike thrown in for good
measure. AND the plastic has to at least compete with metal on cost,
while delivering the previously noted benefits of quiter operation and
keeping the intake charge cool. The various manufacturers who were
first to figure this equation out were justified in bragging a bit about
it, IMHO.
p.s. Porsche used a plastic intake plenum (“airbox”) starting in '73 to
save weight, but the intake runners were still aluminum. The plastic
box was fragile enough to backfiring that an aftermarket pop-off valve
quickly appeared and is considered mandatory equipment nowadays…
moral: never underestimate the hostility of the underhood environment…
- -Ed Mellinger Monterey CA
From: Dan Graves dan@bimmer.rose.hp.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 96 13:32:38 PDT
Subject: Chevy lumps…etc
Cars like MGs just have ‘character’, and the V8 swap is not as feasible
anyway in these little guys.
Although its a Ford lump instead of Chevy I have a '64 MGB with a 289 in
it. I don’t know if its feasible or not but it sure is fun!
Dan
'69 E-type OTS (with a Jaguar lump in it!)
From: Carlos Madero/Intl/Corp/Tyson Carlos_Madero/Intl/Corp/Tyson.TYSON@mislnx.tyson.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 14:39:05 -0500
Subject: Hello
Hi, I am a new subscriber to the jag-lovers group, and I am very excited about
it. I am 43 years old, a food scientist during my working hours, and one of my
favorite pastimes is working on keeping my cars running right.
My Jaguar is a 1973 XJ6, I bought it in Dallas, Texas back in 1987. The car is
silver with red interior, and at some point in its life it received hubs and
wire wheels from an E-type Jaguar. I use it to commute to work. I have always
thought the car needs more power and have been interested in installation of a
Chevrolet V8 engine. I would love to hear from other Jag-lovers who have gone
through the “conversion” for advice and suggestions. I already have bought a
350 Chevrolet with a 700R4 transmission, and if I do not use if on the XJ6, I
may put it on my 1953 Chevy Pickup.
Some of my present projects / concerns;
Do XJ6 come originally equipped with a “shell” that supports the headliner, or
is the headliner supposed to be glued to the underside of the roof?
Are there any tricks to running tubeless tires on the E-type wheels? I am
running tubes now.
Here is my small contribution to the group; I had to replace the heater valve
in the car, and found that Chevrolets of late 60’s or early 70’s use the exact
same part. Last week one of the electric motors on the power window system
quit working, and upon examination, it said “Delco Made in the US” . I went to
the salvage yard and located an early 70’s Cadillac, which provided me with the
exact same part, I paid 10 dollars for it. I suspect other GM cars of the same
era may share those parts.
Y’all have a good day !!
Carlos Madero
From: Alan Akeister 100705.3012@CompuServe.COM
Date: 30 Jul 96 16:48:09 EDT
Subject: RE: “Cooked Engine”
Graham,
<< I can’t see why it should
lead you to think that it has been “cooked”.>>
my thought was that if the temp guage had not been working, and the PO had not
seen this, he might have overheated, then put the other guage in afterwards.
The car is at a dealer now, and has been so for three months.
Thanks for the pointers, I will ahve a look on Saturday
best Regards
Alan Akeister
From: Dan Graves dan@bimmer.rose.hp.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 96 13:57:14 PDT
Subject: Re: E-type article…
A good break from the Monday blues…
http://www.caranddriver.com/member/curIssue/aug_96/bedard.html
Ryan Border mentioned this article in a previous post and after reading
it I thought I’d share something a friend did for me just last week.
An engineer here at work was back in New York on business a couple weeks
ago attending a big PC show of some kind. About three days after she
returned from her trip I found a poster-sized print of an E-type OTS
that she got at the Museum of Modern Art in New York, along with about
10 different photographs of the E-type they had on display! The framed
print now resides over my fireplace in the living room.
I’ve got some great friends.
Dan
'69 E-type OTS
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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 31 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 254
Cubic inches = ?
83 XJ6 S3 – Fuel Injection Adjustment
Re: “Cooked Engine”
Re: Jag engines
Helpful advice
“E” bumper question
Re: electrical gage-85 XJ-S
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #246
Re: Thoughts regarding lumps…
Re: Bearing stress
Re: US Engines (small and large)
Re: Inlet Manifold Design
Re: Inlet Manifold Design
Re: US Engines (small and large)
Re: [XJ6 early] Low max rpm / Bad coil?
“The Car” Raymond Carver
Borg Warner 66 Transmission
Intake manifold design
Inlet Manifold Design
From: Dan Graves dan@bimmer.rose.hp.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 96 14:19:12 PDT
Subject: Cubic inches = ?
Lloyd, don’t go tellin’ everyone that us mericans know the engines sizes
in both cubic inches AND centimeters! My personal view about that
topic is that most V8’s are referred to in cubic inches and most other
motors are referred to in cubic centimeters. My MG has a 289 in it, the
Trans Am I owned had a 305, but my van has a 4.3 liter.
I think my E-type must have a 4.2 liter V6 in it. Isn’t that why it has
two covers on top?
Dan
From: chatmans@ext.missouri.edu
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 96 16:47:24 cdt
Subject: 83 XJ6 S3 – Fuel Injection Adjustment
I was just reading the XJ6 problems part of Lawrence Buja's Jag-lovers
Net Guide to Jaguars and am curious about Joseph Augenbraun's
statement that the fuel injection is set too lean with too slow
response on the air flow sensor. He mentions "Breaking off the potting
compound to get in and make adjustments..." and improving 0-60 times
by 1 1/2 seconds. Could someone describe the adjustments simply enough
for a DIY with standard tools? Has anyone tried and was it worth it?
TIA
Steve Chatman
From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 16:38:17 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Re: “Cooked Engine”
{I am looking at a 1988 XJS V12 with 100,000 miles on for sale at 4,500 GBP
{I know he will come down in price. the only thing is that an extra temperature
{guage has been fitted to the car and the in-dash one does not work.
{What I am afraid of is perhaps the engine has been “Cooked”
{Any one know a way (short of dismantalling it) of knowing if this is so?
My first british car was a TR-8 which had been cooked by the PO’s wife
driving it up a long canyon with no water in it. The first clue was a
patchs of blistered paint on the hood and in the engine bay, the second
was a leaky water pump. I got lucky and the heads hadn’t warped.
I recently saw mid 80’s XJS which had just been rebuilt after an engine
fire, all the hoses and stickers in the engine bay looked too much too
new and shiny for it’s age.
Definitely do the compression test which everyone else is suggesting.
But, if you suspect a cooked engine, stick your head in and look around
for blistered paint, smoked stickers or melted plastic parts in out of
the way places.
/\ Lawrence Buja http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern/
_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
________________Boulder,Colorado___80307-3000
From: bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman Wing)
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 19:22:44 -0400
Subject: Re: Jag engines
I can also attest to the durability of the XK engine - although this might
be an extreme case. My dad and I bought a MKX at an auction,although the
auctioneer told us that there was a “slight engine noise”, it was in nice
original condition, and the price was good enough that we could put an
engine in it and it would still be reasonable. We got the beast home and I
set about trying to start it, changing oil, oiling cylinders, etc. With a
little starting fluid and the help of a batery charger, the engine started
quite easily, considering it had been sitting 10+ years. However when we
started it, the “slight engine noise” turned out to be a horrible banging
that sounded like a rod bearing, so I shut it down immediately. Upon
disassembly, I found the following problems:
- –several rod nuts had fallen off and were in the sump
- –absolutely NO rod bearings left in 2 cylinders
- –rest of the big end bearings paper thin, I could wobble the crankshaft
around by hand - –block cracked in 2 places
- –pistons hitting the botton of the head due to the lack of bearings
- –timing chain bottom tensioner gone, causing the chain to grind a 1/4"
groove in the block - –valves badly burned
- –hole in #1 piston that I could stick my finger through
- –oil pump innards looked like someone took a chisel to them
And the motor started easily and idled nicely!!(at least for a few seconds
until I yanked the coil wire) The engine is now almost back together, I was
able to reuse everything(with some machining) except pistons, 2 rods, and
the oil pump. I used another block, but the original just needs 2 liners,
line boring, and 2 cracks welded, so I’m keeping it as a spare. And to
think, the chevy that I once raced on an oval gave up the ghost after
burning one valve!
P.S. This is not meant to be part of the debate over lumping, just an
anecdote I thought others might find interesting.
From: SCleme519@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 19:23:58 -0400
Subject: Helpful advice
I’m fairly new to the list and have been lurking for a few weeks. I would
like to thank S. Chatman for his posting concerning steering rack bushing
replacement summary. I used his advice and did the job with no problems.
The new bushings are a great improvement, and I think they make my XJ6 SIII
much safer to drive. I would recommend the procedure to anyone who is
experiencing unresponsive steering.
Steve Clements
From: Tommy loner@peterboro.net
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 20:04:37 -0400
Subject: “E” bumper question
Hey Lloyd:
Just went outside and braved the elements to check on that E-Type rear =
bumper.
On my 1971 Series 2 the rubber extends to the "front end" of the rear =
bumper on top and continues underneath for an inch or two. The seal =
above and below is all one piece, but I don’t think it’s folded or bent =
over. It looks as though it was moulded that way. I’m pretty sure mine =
is original.
Let me know how you make out.
Tommy
loner@peterboro.net
“Looking for the perfect business opportunity”
From: “Rice, Brian” RICEB@lsod.srl.dsto.defence.gov.au
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 96 09:42:00 CST
Subject: Re: electrical gage-85 XJ-S
In Jag-Lovers V2#206 Rob W-M wrote re Subject: electrical gage-85 XJ-S
All gauges in my 85 XJ-S read low by 25% when I acquired the car several
years ago with 50Km on odo.
I did some tests by lifting No 4 fuse and applying a variable voltage to
the dead end from a power supply, making sure not to exceed 15 volts. With
precisely 12 volts applied the voltmeter showed about 9V. The fuel gauge
also only indicated 3/4 with a full tank of petrol.
Removed the instrumentation panel, quite an easy job, and investigated on
the bench.
All gauges showed corrosion at the rear terminal nuts and washers where they
contact the flexible printed wiring assembly. I was able to repair by
soldering tinned copper wire to the flexible circuit board tracks being
careful not to melt the plastic flexible board and fashioning the wire into
circular washers to go under the terminals thus establishing good contacts
again.
While I was at it I removed all gauges, cleaned the dust out and
straightened up the yellow pointers so that they were all nicely horizontal
when in the vertical instrumentation clusters. This had been annoying me for
ages.
Gauges now work as designed with no problems and no need to thump the dash
board.
Brian W.Rice
Adelaide South Australia
85 XJ-S HE (White)
84 XJ-6 Sovereign (White)
From: RogerS7642@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 20:55:00 -0400
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #246
In a message dated 96-07-28 22:16:39 EDT, you write:
<< 1987 XJ-6 Starter, Front Suspension, and Radio…
Date: 24 July 1996 09:28 >>
Before you go any further, check that the struts which go from the centre of
each inner wing (fender) to the center of the buklhead are tightly bolted
down. I was ready to remove and rebuild the front suspension when I
discovered that one of the struts was loose.
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 21:25:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Thoughts regarding lumps…
John Napoli and Jim Cantrell discuss:
- Need for More Power – If one wanted to drastically increase the
power of the car, perhaps the easiest and most cost-effective way is a
swap. Jag performance parts are relativelly rare and expensive…I have to agree with this. I have a sunbeam Alpine which had a bad
motor. Turned out that I could have rebuilt it, but I wanted more
power. I swapped in a V6 from a german Capri (not an american lump
but a german lump !) to get more power and better access to parts.
Wait a minute, guys. There are two separate issues being discussed here.
One is “originality”, the value of keeping a car as it was originally
intended. Some people value this, but I do not in the slightest. The other
issue is just what constitutes an improvement. I owned a Sunbeam Alpine,
and can personally attest that almost any engine swap would have been an
improvement; I’m sure the German V6 helped considerably. But a Chevy lump
in place of a Jaguar V-12 is NOT an improvement, in any sense of the word.
A Chevy lump in place of the Jag six might be considered an improvement by
some, I’ll leave that discussion to those who own such cars.
- Need to Work with Something that is Known…
Probobly true for the corn farmer in N. Dakota but I find this
reasoning to be the most objectionable.
Me, too. Of course, part of the thing I like about cars is learning
something new, so I guess I have no clear understanding of why anyone would
wanna trash something just because they aren’t familiar with it. Probably
an example of mental laziness.
How many times have you heard someone talk about something like, say, a
Mercedes diesel car with respect to how they last forever compared to the
gasoline version?Aha, another unjust social myth unmasked. I agree.
Hate to suggest this, but it’s probably true. The diesel engine is
inherently more durable, simply because the fuel has more lubricity than
gasoline; it drastically reduces upper cylinder and valve wear. The engines
typically also have no power to speak of, which lowers the stresses on
everything else in the car. And, finally, the person that would buy a
diesel has an entirely different mentality than us jag-lovers, and is likely
to treat his car differently than we treat ours.
I’ve participated on this list for some time, and there seems to be
precious little, if anything, fundamentally wrong with Jag engines.Hooray, I couldn’t agree more. Besides, if the motors were really
that terrible, Jaguar would have lost lots of money in the long run
and would have either remedied the proiblem or changed. Not strictly
true for all of the car, but a general fact of doing business.
Actually, this is where I feel the problems have occurred – not just with
Jaguars, but with British cars in general. The British – especially Jaguar
-
– have always been able to design their cars with esthetics far superior to
those of other countries. They may not be the sleekest, or the most
fashionable, or the flashiest, but British cars have always managed to be
some of the most visually attractive around. IMHO, this has PREVENTED them
from being forced to straighten out their act, where any other cars with
comparable problems would have gone under long ago. Their relentless good
looks, combined with nearly constant rumors that “they have addressed all
their problems, only the older cars had trouble, the new ones are reliable”
have managed to keep their sales going through thick and thin.-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 21:25:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Bearing stress
Peter Carpenter:
…surely a
longer stroke engine will have greater stress on the bearings purely
because of the greater momentum change at the ends of the stroke, which
of course is exacerbated with cold oil etc on starting?
When talking about engines of differing strokes, the issue normally
considered the indicator of stress is piston speed. A longer stroke engine
will have higher piston speeds at the same RPM, and therefore higher
stresses – everywhere, bearings, con rods, pistons, you name it.
Therefore, to maintain the same piston speed and therefore the same
durability, a longer stroke engine must turn slower.
When comparing engines at the same RPM, of course the longer stroke will
have higher stresses. I choose to compare engines at the same piston speed,
where stresses on reciprocating parts are comparable – and the stresses on
bearings may actually be lower, since they are turning slower.
As far as cold starting goes, I doubt if stroke makes much difference. The
problem is inherent in that an oil film bearing does not work at standstill,
period, it requires motion to establish the film. So, it must rely on the
lubricity of the oil itself and the durability of the bearing shells to get
it past the point where the oil film forms.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 21:25:17 -0400
Subject: Re: US Engines (small and large)
David Brown:
With all this talk about small/large block Chevvies, I was wondering. Do
Americans ALWAYS talk about engines in terms of cubic inches ? If one asked
the
average American what size his engine was would he respond “two litre” or “X
cubic inches” ? (I can’t be bothered to work out the conversion
Americans – at least around here – regularly use both. When talking about
engines that have been around since before the invention of the metric
system (i.e., Chevy lumps), they usually talk cubic inches. But when
talking about Jap cars or newer American engines, they usually will talking
about liters – and yes, that’s how they spell it.
Most people are aware that a 305ci engine is 5 liters and a 427ci is 7
liters, and don’t need to know any more about the conversion.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 21:25:27 -0400
Subject: Re: Inlet Manifold Design
John Napoli:
Are these manifolds available, and at what price?
I dunno. I’m also not entirely sure how suitable they are for the stock 5.3
litre engine. He’s using them on his 8.1 litre. Going to larger pipes on
an inlet manifold is similar to using larger pipes on an exhaust manifold –
better at high power, while sacrificing benefits at lower speeds. The
smaller tubes on the stock 5.3 may provide better ram at low RPM due to
higher velocities in the tubes.
And what about simply welding on a second or third throttle plate body –
spacing them properly – onto the stock manifold?
This is two entirely different issues. Adding butterflies provides more
throttle opening, which will help if the throttles are restrictive and won’t
do any good at all if they’re not; in the case of the stock 5.3 with its
huge butterflies, I seriously doubt if additional butterflies will provide
much benefit. If you haven’t opened the air filter housing intakes, it
definitely won’t do anything at all.
The ram tubes are a different idea. The butterflies open into a plenum, and
the ram tubes go from this plenum to each cylinder. During the intake
strokes, the air gets moving in these tubes and then tries to KEEP moving as
the piston comes to a stop at the bottom of its stroke, causing a ram
effect. Going to larger pipes allows more flow at top end, but reduces the
ram effect at low flow – so it tends to move the torque curve upward. Good
for racing, not good for street.
Could the same balance be achieved by introducing just the right sized
vacuum leak in the center cylinders?
You try it, and report on the results.
A leak will provide about the same amount of air at all times, while the
boost due to ram effect varies with RPM. You’d always be off somewhere.
Actually, there is one method used on some other design manifolds that solve
similar problems: a separate small tube comes from the plenum and connects
to the side of a runner. This tends to kill the ram up to that point, so
the effective length of that tube is back to what the others are. Makes an
ugly manifold, though.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 21:25:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Inlet Manifold Design
John Napoli:
Plastic! That’s the ticket! I can buy me a load of PVC pipe at Home
Depot tonight and glue me up some new intake manifolds!!! Why, I’ll whip
me up a whole bunch of throttle plates out of clothes dryer vents, too!!!
Suggest you use CPVC, for the better high temp capability.
A Dodge Neon I rented had a plastic intake manifold, seemed to work fine.
There’s no real strength issue, but I did wonder how it could be bolted to
the head without melting or getting brittle and cracking.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 21:25:31 -0400
Subject: Re: US Engines (small and large)
John Napoli:
Now that the manufacturers refer to engine sizes
metrically, I would bet that a ‘3.8 liter Minivan’ has no meaning to them
whatsoever – meaning that they can not relate it to the equivalent
English unit (“380 cubic inches, right?” :] )
You can drop the smilie. I personally knew a Bubba who (through some
bizarre set of occurrences) owned a 450SEL Mercedes. Was VERY disappointed
when I explained to him that did not mean 450 cubic inches.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| -- Palm's Postulate
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 31 Jul 96 13:49:10
Subject: Re: [XJ6 early] Low max rpm / Bad coil?
Just an observation, Nick: I had an elderly Rover that ran fine but started
spluttering at that sort of revs and refused to go faster; turned out to be a
dud points capacitor.
-
- Jan
From: DavidZ333@aol.com
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 22:51:39 -0400
Subject: “The Car” Raymond Carver
The Car Raymond Carver
The car with a cracked windshield.
The car that threw a rod.
The car without brakes.
The car with a faulty U-joint.
The car with a hole in its radiator.
The car I picked peaches for.
The car with a cracked block.
The car with no reverse gear.
The car I traded for a bicycle.
The car with steering problems.
The car with generator trouble.
The car with no back seat.
The car with the torn front seat.
The car that burned oil.
The car with rotten hoses.
T’he car that left the restaurant without paying.
The car with bald tires.
The car with no heater or defroster.
The car with its front end out of alignment.
The car the child threw up in.
The car I threw up in.
The car with the broken water pump.
The car whose timing gear was shot.
The car with a blown head-gasket.
The car I left on the side of the road.
The car that leaked carbon monoxide.
The car with a sticky carburetor.
The car that hit the dog and kept going.
The car with a hole in its mufller.
The car with no muffler.
The car my daughter wrecked.
The car with the twice-rebuilt engine.
The car with corroded battery cables.
The car bought with a bad check.
Car of my sleepless nights.
The car with a stuck thermostat.
The car whose engine caught fire.
The car with no headlights.
The car with a broken fan belt.
The car with wipers that wouldn’t work.
The car I gave away.
The car with transmission trouble.
The car I washed my hands of.
The car I struck with a hammer.
The car with payments that couldn’t be met.
The repossessed car.
The car whose clutch-pin broke.
The car waiting on the back lot.
Car of my dreams.
My car.
From: Tommy loner@peterboro.net
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 23:10:09 -0400
Subject: Borg Warner 66 Transmission
Hey All Jaggers:
I’ve been following threads on transmission leaks with interest. =
Unfortunately…
1980 XJ6 equipped with original Borg Warner 66 transmission.
Car has been sitting for six years.
Drove car around the block a dozen times last summer while doing the =
body work.
Got the car back on the road, proper, three weeks ago.
Drove the car for several hundred kilometres over two weeks time.
Came back from a 40 kilometre run and noticed transmission fluid =
dripping from underside of car - especially transmission and driveshaft =
area right back to the IRS. Looks as though there was a leak and it =
sprayed over large area.
Unable to pinpoint exact location of leak (fluid is everywhere - =
dripping).
I topped up transmission fluid which was down approximately 2 1/2 litres =
from full capacity of 8 litres.
I have run the car several hundred kilometres since the leaking episode =
without any apparent ill-effects and no further leakage.
What would cause an “intermittent” transmission leak?
TIA
Tommy
loner@peterboro.net
“Lost in the hills of Cavan”
From: Tony Watts amw@maths.uq.oz.au
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 13:13:12 +1000
Subject: Intake manifold design
From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 05:04:15 -0400
Subject: Inlet Manifold Design…
On the stock intake manifolds for the Jaguar V-12, the runners going to the
corner cylinders are longer than all the others. According to White, this
can result in as much as 8% more torque from those cylinders than the
others. IOW, the longer tube results in a greater charge to these cylinders.
The discussion of intake manifolds intrigues me. If a longer runner to the
corner cylinders increases the flow to those cylinders, there is some
interesting fluid dynamics going on. Presumably, it means that there are
large amplitude aerodynamic waves travelling around the place with the
fluctuating flow into individual cylinders interfering with the flow
into other cylinders. At 6,000 rpm, say, there is 1/300 of a second
between consecutive firings on each bank of cylinders and in this time a
sound wave travels about 4 feet, which is of the order of magnitude of the
distances we are talking about in the manifold.
The same sorts of questions arise for exhaust systems. Does anyone know of
any good books or papers on these topics?
Tony Watts
amw@maths.uq.oz.au
From: Ivan isk00@visi.net
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 23:54:01 -0400
Subject: Inlet Manifold Design
None of you have ever seen the AMOCO adds for Torlon? They show a guy
hoding a plastic automotive engine. The block is made of their TORLON
material which is quite strong. Obviously the cylinders, pistions,
rods, cranks and heads were of metal, but the entire engine could be
picked up by one rather hefty looking fellow. I believe they raced this
engine somewhere.
Torlon is a polyimide, like Vespel I think. We were using it for some
special valve seats on our submarine valves. Engineered plastics can
replace metal in many applications. cost and molding requirements are
the driving factors, but the light weight and other advantages make them
attractive.
88 XJ-S, Melissa (very beautiful and expensive, fast too)
Ivan | The meek shall inherit the Earth
http://users.visi.net/~isk00 | The rest of us will head for the Stars
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #254
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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 31 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 255
Re: Why build a small engine?
broken antenna XJ6
Re: MKII alternator conversion
Re: Inlet Manifold Design
Re: You’re doing it again guys!!
Re: Jag engines and lumps
Re: Door lock surprise
Re: Jag engines and lumps
Re: XJ6 or XJ40 as daily driver?
Worldwide XK Register
power windows
Re: Reliability of 4.2l engine
Jag engines
Re: Jag engines
Re: US Engines (small and large)
Re: Hello
Jag drivers vs. car owners
Borg Warner 66 Transmission
[SIII XJ6] Rear springs - ride height
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 31 Jul 96 13:35:32
Subject: Re: Why build a small engine?
I agree with Kirby’s response to Phil Bates; small cubes in a big block is
nothing to do with overdesigning for durability. My personal opinion is that
Jaguar left so much space in the V12 because
a) it’s easier to correct design mistakes if there’s elbow room in the block
b) it’s nice to have room to do a cheap upgrade without total redesign if
racing rules and/or market demands change.
Let’s remember that the V12 was specifically designed to be successful in
racing first, with an option to create a series of road cars to ride on any
racing success.
-
- Jan
From: Robert Hyndman bhyndman@niia.net
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 23:43:22 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: broken antenna XJ6
Just got back from a 8 day 1500 mile trip in the XJ6. The car ran flawlessly.
What a drivers car! Somewhere in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan I decided
the Jag was getting pretty grubby so I stopped in at a “NO TOUCH CAR WASH”.
Normally I hand wash the car myself but I was in a hurry. Well the “NO TOUCH
CAR WASH” ripped the antenna off the Jag. I went in and bitched to the owner
wereupon he led me to the front of the building and showed me the fine print
which said “lower power antennas”, end of my case.
Anyway,can I replace just the antenna mast? Or do I have to replace the
whole unit. The antenna still goes up and down, it just kind of lays over
the wing.
Where might I find one other than a Jaguar dealership?
Thanks in advance.
Bob
“We’ve got to learn to respect what we don’t understand…”
Amy Ray
From: Rob Westcott westcotr@belnet.bellevue.k12.wa.us
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 1996 23:34:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: MKII alternator conversion
The PO had cleverly installed 2, narrow V-belts on my MKII. I tried
several different length Jag double groove belts untill I found one that fit.
Rob Westcott
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 31 Jul 96 20:02:22
Subject: Re: Inlet Manifold Design
Matthias F-L :
why not have plastic inlet manifolds ? They should be easier (and
cheaper ?) to build and light weight.
Just make sure you use the right plastic (melting point >200 deg C?). Don’t
know about cheaper; they’ll ned injection moulding and tooling for that ain’t
inexpensive. Forget about hand-making; that’s a lot easier in steel tubing…
Fun idea, though :3+)
-
- Jan
From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 11:11:15 -0700
Subject: Re: You’re doing it again guys!!
Now I’m really starting ‘not to believe it’. Although response on requsts has
picked up a bit since Steve blew his hat off, we’re now witnessing another
discussion evolving to not even having the slightest to do with Jaguars.
Yes, I mean the discussion on “small engines…” Isn’t there another list for
you guys to discuss issues like this? I don’t oppose to references made to other
marques then ours, but when posting after posting is about Detroit droppings I
think - IMHO - it’s gone too far.
Cosmo:
I’d be very surprised if your locks need replacments. Some penetrating libricant
and a little time should do it. If not, pick’em out, clean and grease.
Eric:
You sizzy! You are a disappointment. I thought you’d joined the S1’ers by now!
Best regards,
Baard
______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 31 Jul 96 20:35:24
Subject: Re: Jag engines and lumps
I get two basic reactions when people find out that I drive a Jag:
1: Gee, I didn’t know journalism is that well paid!
2: How can you live with a car that spends 9 days out of 10 in the workshop?
I have given up on explaining to people that my car is 19 years old and cost me
half of what you pay for a so-called “family car”; they just won’t believe it.
So I just answer something flip like “it’s not - I just don’t piss up my money
in the pub every Friday”.
As for the reliability thing, I just say “I wouldn’t know - mine hasn’t broken
down yet”. Which is sort of true; I’ve always managed to get home :3+).
Seriously, the problem with “reputations” is that they’re all based on hearsay
and they all get exaggerated by people who seek to make themselves interesting
by making up or “improving” sensational anecdotes.
I think a lot of people (mostly ignorant) swap in lumps not because they want
more power but because lumps have a reputation for being reliable and Jag
engines - even though you and I know that they’re practicall unbreakable -
don’t.
Then again, in defence of the lump, an esoteric specification does not a good
engine make. What matters is not “quad cams, 32 valves” (barfsville, it should
be specified per cylinder anyway) but how many bhp @ what revs with how much
noise and vibration. Sadly, I can no longer remember which engine I read about
(BOP?) but Popular Mechanics was enthusing about this quad-cam 32-valve
injected V8 that put out the same bhp @ the same rpm as its pushrod carburetted
predecessor and I felt a sudden desire to write an article titled “the
Emperor’s New Engine”…
Oh, I love the Jag V12 and think it the most marvellously excessive monster (I
call my XJC “old Sabretooth” when we’re alone) but I can see the other
viewpoint, too. Happiness is the name of the game, and you’re entitled to your
flavour as I’m entitled to mine.
Sorry about all that, I’ll go and sober up now, before I get flamed again for
using too much bandwidth…
x-)
-
- Jan
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 31 Jul 96 20:41:10
Subject: Re: Door lock surprise
You can buy the lock barrels separately; just see your local Jag parts pusher -
or does someone have a line into the lock manufacturer?
As for theft proofing, locks won’t do it - they’re too easy to pick. Try
changing the wiring so you have to, say, turn on the fog lamps while starting
or (as in my 4-door) the fuel pump won’t run unless the rear window heating is
on.
-
- Jan
From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 14:12 +0200
Subject: Re: Jag engines and lumps
As for the reliability thing, I just say “I wouldn’t know - mine hasn’t
broken
down yet”. Which is sort of true; I’ve always managed to get home :3+).Seriously, the problem with “reputations” is that they’re all based on
hearsay
and they all get exaggerated by people who seek to make themselves
interesting
by making up or “improving” sensational anecdotes.
That’s true, not only on the reliability of Jaguar engines but also of Lucas=20=
electrics. After all the driving for the last 30 years in English cars I=20
haven’t once suffered an electrical breakdown (neither another one for that=20=
matter). The only time it came close was when I decided in a fit of youthful=20=
enthusiasm to change the petrol pump in my XK150 during an “improvement=20
programme”. After all it was 15 years old but behaved impeccably. The new=20
pump made me stop a few times on the road side, coming to life again after=20
hitting it with the wheel change hammer. The points were badly adjusted. So=20=
now, even during restorations I never change anything; everything gets=20
tested and if necessary overhauled rather than changed.
(BOP?) but Popular Mechanics was enthusing about this quad-cam 32-valve
injected V8 that put out the same bhp @ the same rpm as its pushrod
carburetted
predecessor and I felt a sudden desire to write an article titled “the
Emperor’s New Engine”…
Yes, but the specific petrol consumption was about 30% lower and it polluted=20=
less too I suppose.
Sorry about all that, I’ll go and sober up now, before I get flamed again=20=
for
using too much bandwidth…
x-)
- Jan
If we want to save bandwidth than we should stop the list altogether maybe.=20=
(hastily putting on the flamesuit) B-{S
Frans.
From: Mark Stiles ittmjs@staffs.ac.uk
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 13:25:24 +0100
Subject: Re: XJ6 or XJ40 as daily driver?
I have no experience of Series 3 XJ6s but do use a '90 model Daimler
4.0 (XJ40) as a daily driver. I have only had the beast for a few
months, but so far it has been very reliable. (I did have a fuse go -
but replacing it was all that was needed). Received wisdom in my local
Jag Enthusiasts Club - and from others asked - is that the XJ40s are
much beter from 90 model on (locks that work, things like that) and
that this applies to general build quality in particular. (Probably,
he said, cowering, the influence of FoMoCo?)
Mark
Mark Stiles - Academic Development Manager
IT Services
Staffordshire University
01785 353410
From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@CompuServe.COM
Date: 31 Jul 96 08:27:34 EDT
Subject: Worldwide XK Register
I have decided to compile a worldwide XK Register from all known registers (e.g.
CJA, past UK XK Registers, Australian register etc) and all other information
that is offered. Anyone out there able to let me have copies of car details
from their local clubs e.g. chassis, engine etc numbers from the identification
plates, names and addresses of past and present owners, history of the car,
registration/licence numbers, copy of Heritage Certificates? All donations
gratefully received. Fax to 61 2 9221 5195, snail mail to 8 Milner Street,
Mosman NSW 2088, Australia. we have had some messages about this within the XK
group. Regards, John Elmgreen
From: “R. Eugene Johnston (smp)” rej@cs.unc.edu
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 08:39:13 -0400
Subject: power windows
Carlos, was the power window motor from the front or rear window?
The reason I ask is that my 72 xj6 has a defunct left rear window,
but when I tried to access the motor it seems to be integrated with
the glass lift mechanism and not easily removable. I replaced the
front window motor some years ago and it was easily removed.
The headliner in the series 1 is glued to a fibre board type material.
I took my car to an upholstry shop who glued in a new headliner without
removing fibre board for about $50. I then recovered all the other
trim pieces myself.
Gene Johnston '72 xj6 '53 MK7
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 08:45:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Reliability of 4.2l engine
Hey, the guy in the Ferrari was me! I was looking at the odometer, too!
It had just passed ‘10’!
Just kidding, of course. It sure sounds like you are getting your moneys
worth out of that engine. Not that anyone outside this list would
believe you… (Kidding again)
What are you going to do with the extra engine?
John
On Tue, 30 Jul 1996, Jim Isbell wrote:
John Napoli jgn@li.net wrote:
So it is, IMHO, with Jags. Everyone ‘knows’ that they are undependable.
And usually its the engine that gets blamed.My '82 had 52,000 miles on it when I got it. I have no idea what kind of
maintenance it got, but I suspect very poor.It now has 115,000 miles on it (4 years). The maintenance has been
impecable. I pull a trailer with a race car on it (2200 lbs). I race it on
occasion and have had it above 120mph since it turned 100,000 miles. In
fact it turned 100,000 in turn #1 while passing a Ferrari 308GTB at
TexasWorld Speedway. (I am not too sure of the exact location. As you can
immagine my eyes were not spending much time on the odometer at that
moment.) I cannot imagine a more reliable engine. In fact after the
“total” of my car by my wife I am pulling the engine (even though it has
115,000 miles on it) and transmission to put into another XJ6 (the engine in
the new XJ6 has 77,000 miles on it and may be fine, but I know my engine is
fine, so out goes the “new” one).I am also considering “pulling” my wife from behind the wheel…#8-)
“Prefiero morrir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”
Gen. Emiliano Zapata 1879-1919
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 07:47:13 -0500
Subject: Jag engines
Just an item to note…the engine in my 88XJ40 has needed MUCH less repair
work, while receiving the same level of mantenance, as the engine in my 89
Merc. sable wagon.
As a matter of fact, the Merc is going to go bye-bye while the Jag will be
around for a long time (I hope).
Scott ‘still no a/c – but it doesn’t work in the Merc either’ Phillips
'88 XJ40
Minnetonka, MN usa
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 08:48:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Jag engines
Right on. And its even possible that you have no gas because some part
made of English rubber, as well described in Kirby’s book, gave up the ghost.
Is it ok to swap in good 'murrican rubber?
John
On Tue, 30 Jul 1996, Victor A. Carreno wrote:
I don’t doubt your experiences. My point is that ‘popular opinion’
maligns Jags, and the engine is the first to be blamed.John,
I understand your point completely. I was adding that not only Jaguar
engines are as reliable as other car engines but that in my experience
Jaguar engines are more tolerant to abuses than other engines. The last
sentence on my posting was supposed to be a sarcastic remark:Your engine is not running because it doesn’t have gasoline. Hence, the
engine is no good.Victor.
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 07:56:07 -0500
Subject: Re: US Engines (small and large)
At 09:25 PM 7/30/96 -0400, Kirby wrote:
Americans – at least around here – regularly use both. When talking about
engines that have been around since before the invention of the metric
system (i.e., Chevy lumps), they usually talk cubic inches.
Kirby, hate to pick nits, but I think the metric system has been around a
lot longer than the Chevy lump…
Scott Phillips
'88XJ40
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 09:03:53 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Hello
Oh, man – what timing. Did someone put you up to this?
Put the Chevy in the Chevy. If you need more power from the Jag six, there
is a lot you can do to it.
(Wait a minute – I’ve got it! Put the V8 in the pickup, and replace the
Jag six with the Stovebolt 6!!!)
John
On Tue, 30 Jul 1996, Carlos Madero/Intl/Corp/Tyson wrote:
Hi, I am a new subscriber to the jag-lovers group, and I am very excited about
it. I am 43 years old, a food scientist during my working hours, and one of my
favorite pastimes is working on keeping my cars running right.My Jaguar is a 1973 XJ6, I bought it in Dallas, Texas back in 1987. The car is
silver with red interior, and at some point in its life it received hubs and
wire wheels from an E-type Jaguar. I use it to commute to work. I have always
thought the car needs more power and have been interested in installation of a
Chevrolet V8 engine. I would love to hear from other Jag-lovers who have gone
through the “conversion” for advice and suggestions. I already have bought a
350 Chevrolet with a 700R4 transmission, and if I do not use if on the XJ6, I
may put it on my 1953 Chevy Pickup.Some of my present projects / concerns;
Do XJ6 come originally equipped with a “shell” that supports the headliner, or
is the headliner supposed to be glued to the underside of the roof?
Are there any tricks to running tubeless tires on the E-type wheels? I am
running tubes now.Here is my small contribution to the group; I had to replace the heater valve
in the car, and found that Chevrolets of late 60’s or early 70’s use the exact
same part. Last week one of the electric motors on the power window system
quit working, and upon examination, it said “Delco Made in the US” . I went to
the salvage yard and located an early 70’s Cadillac, which provided me with the
exact same part, I paid 10 dollars for it. I suspect other GM cars of the same
era may share those parts.Y’all have a good day !!
Carlos Madero
From: “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 08:43:23 -0500
Subject: Jag drivers vs. car owners
To briefly follow-up on this thread, I have noticed that there is a distinct
conversation that occurs regrading Jags seen on the road. Whereas those I
am with may say ‘nice Mercedes’ or ‘what model is that BMW’, the remarks
regarding a Jag they see includes comments about the car, but always
includes comments about trying to see who’s driving it, too. They are
intrigued not only by the car, but also by the ‘who’ of who is in that car!
Same when I park it, fuel it, etc. I can’t count the times strangers have
come up, commented on their personal dream of Jag ownership, and ALWAYS ask
‘what is it like to drive’, and ‘please would you open the hood (bonnet) so
I could take a look at the engine’-- even my paltry 6.
Just some observations.
Scott Phillips
'88 XJ40
Minnetonka, mn, usa
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 08:48:53 -0500
Subject: Borg Warner 66 Transmission
What would cause an “intermittent” transmission leak?
TIA
Tommy
You are in luck, I know the answer to that question!! Maybe the only one I
know the answer to.
It wasnt really a leak. It was an overflow due to over reving.
You probably had the car in low and didnt realise it. The high revs of the
engine were not noticable because an XJ6 is so quiet if it has a good
exhaust system.
I have done this twice, once on a Corvair and once on a Ford truck. It
wasnt until I did it on the truck that I realised I had unloaded the Corvair
prematurely. I thought there was something major wrong with the Corvair so
I sold it immediately. Now I know better.
If it doesnt repeat I will almost bet that this was the problem.
“Prefiero morrir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”
Gen. Emiliano Zapata
1879-1919
From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 16:46:50 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: [SIII XJ6] Rear springs - ride height
I think someone else asked this question on the list a while ago, I never
saw any answers so I’ll ask it again. Sorry for the inconvenience…
When I had my '86 Series III XJ6 4.2 Sovereign in for service at Kimman
BV in Amsterdam a couple of weeks ago a mechanic told me I should replace
the rear springs. I’m about to replace the shocks/dampers all 'round so I
would like the list’s opinions and experiences regarding this. I’ll have to
dismantle the springs to replace the rear shocks/dampers anyway, no need
to do the work twice…
I’m really not so sure about replacing my rear springs, the car looks
perfectly level to me, even with full tanks of gas/petrol and an
assortment of tools, gadgets and gizmos in the trunk/boot. This could of
course just mean that my front springs are sagging as well, but they look
okay to me and said mechanic never mentioned that I need to replace them.
Are there other reasons for changing the springs (on a 100% stock
vehicle)? Can the springs loose their firmness and “ride quality” even
without sagging?
In the finest Kirby tradition (welcome back!) I’d like your help with
some observations:
If you have a Series III XJ6 (or even XJ12) I’d be most grateful if you
could observe the following points on your car(s) and report them to me
in private email. I’ll post a summary to the list when the jury’s in…
-
How high above ground does the car ride (measured on a level, flat
surface from the ground up to the lower edge of the rocker panel below
the B post)? Please measure to the lowest part of the panel itself, not
to the thin (welding) lip sticking out underneath. On my car: LH side
20.7cm (8 5/32"), RH side 21.0cm (8 9/32"). -
How high above ground does the car ride at the rear (measured from the
ground up to the lowest point of the panel beneath and behind the rear
bumper, just in front of the little round hole)? On my car: 22.7cm (8
15/16"). -
Does the car stand perfectly level or does it ride a bit higher at
the rear? Mine is level (or maybe even a little bit higher at the rear). -
On my car the edges of the rear wheel arches cover the top of the
rear tires/tyres by about 1.5cm (19/32") on both sides. This one is a
bit difficult to measure, but how does it look on your car? -
Please include any modifications you have done (or know that the PO
has done) to your car, esp. if you have non-standard size wheels
and/or tires/tyres. Please include model (XJ6/XJ12) as well as model
year of your car. Mine is an '86 XJ6 with the standard 205/70VR15
P5’s on the standard 6" steel wheels.
Thank you!
Gunnar
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar XJ6 4.2 Sovereign
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | Vicki who? What .sig virus?
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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 31 July 1996 Volume 02 : Number 256
XJS Convertible Conversion - Update
Re: Jag drivers vs. car owners
Re: BW 66 Transmission
Re: broken antenna XJ6
Re: Thoughts regarding lumps…
Re: Inlet Manifold Design
Re: US Engines (small and large)
The resurection of old #25
Re: Jag engines and lumps
RE: BW 66 Transmission
'84 XJ6 VDP overheating
Major Problems with XJS V12
4.2 autopsy results – Questions
Restoration Update
Jaguar rims for sale.
[SIII XJ6] LH side front fender/wing fit
From: “Martin Robert Fooks, WWIS” mfooks@postiss.netherlands.ncr.com
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 96 11:54:00 PDT
Subject: XJS Convertible Conversion - Update
Nick,
Did you get any decent information on the conversion?
Between you Kirby Palm, and John Napoli, I have been forced to daydream and
change my plans to sell the XJS.
I would very much like a copy of any details you received on conversions
within Europe.
Martin R. Fooks.
— Dreaming of a 600BHP+ Convertible XJS with Transmission break —
From: Mark Stiles ittmjs@staffs.ac.uk
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 16:35:16 +0100
Subject: Re: Jag drivers vs. car owners
On Wed, 31 Jul 1996 08:43:23 -0500 “Scott W. Phillips” phillips@mn.uswest.net wrote:
… but always
includes comments about trying to see who’s driving it, too. They are
intrigued not only by the car, but also by the ‘who’ of who is in that car!
I have the same experience, even here in the UK. I often get approach
by people at social events in Stafford, who I don’t know but “have seen
you driving your Jag…”. Also recently I was parked at a
canalside pub with a friend, when a group of people came out of the pub
and when over to my six year old car saying “what a nice Jag, Oh its a
Daimler”…, much to the disgust of the owner(sat at the next table) of
a brand new Lexus whose car was parked alongside! Smug or what!?
Mark
'90 Daimler 4.0
Mark Stiles - Academic Development Manager
IT Services
Staffordshire University
01785 353410
From: “BJ Kroppe” wkroppe@ford.com
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 11:46:51 -0400
Subject: Re: BW 66 Transmission
Tommy loner@peterboro.net wrote:
What would cause an “intermittent” transmission leak?
At work we have experienced transmission fluid geysers caused by
overfilling the transmission. The geyser emanates from the dipstick.
(side note: transmission dipsticks are going by the wayside in lieu
of sealed for life units)
A word to all: be very sure you have the correct amount of fluid in
your transmissions. It’s recommended to drain the transmission and
refill if you are in doubt.
B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6
From: “Donald R. Farr” d.farr@phx.cox.com
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 09:00:47 -0700
Subject: Re: broken antenna XJ6
I’ve got a similar problem…started to get some advice on this about two
months ago before I left on an extended trip, and misplaced the posts I’d
received on it.
Mine spewed out the plastic strip that, I guess, runs the mast up and
down.
I’d appreciate a re-post of where and what can be done.
Thanks,
Don
Donald R. Farr
Paradise Valley, AZ 85253
91 Sovereign
http://www.people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/dfarr.htm
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 12:33:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Thoughts regarding lumps…
Glad you are chiming in on this one:
On Tue, 30 Jul 1996, Kirby Palm wrote:
John Napoli and Jim Cantrell discuss:
- Need for More Power – If one wanted to drastically increase the
power of the car, perhaps the easiest and most cost-effective way is a
swap. Jag performance parts are relativelly rare and expensive…I have to agree with this. I have a sunbeam Alpine which had a bad
motor. Turned out that I could have rebuilt it, but I wanted more
power. I swapped in a V6 from a german Capri (not an american lump
but a german lump !) to get more power and better access to parts.Wait a minute, guys. There are two separate issues being discussed here.
One is “originality”, the value of keeping a car as it was originally
intended. Some people value this, but I do not in the slightest. The other
issue is just what constitutes an improvement. I owned a Sunbeam Alpine,
and can personally attest that almost any engine swap would have been an
improvement; I’m sure the German V6 helped considerably. But a Chevy lump
in place of a Jaguar V-12 is NOT an improvement, in any sense of the word.
A Chevy lump in place of the Jag six might be considered an improvement by
some, I’ll leave that discussion to those who own such cars.
I think we pretty much agree on this one, but many of us add a bit of
passion to what can be an unemotional, logical analysis. If I wanted to go
as fast or a little faster than a stock Jag motor, I could go with a lump
and have an equivalent $/HP ratio (lumps are cheaper, but you already
have the Jag motor and there is the cost of aquisition of the lump and
the conversion kit). But if I wanted to go really, really fast, the $/HP
would work in favor of the lump, simply because speed parts are so
available and so cheap for them. Just browse thru a Jeg’s or Summit
catalog, and see how cheap it is to build a monster lump – then browse
thru Terry’s catalog and price out the same HP for a Jag!!!
On the issue of originality, I don’t feel bad about modifying my old
XJ-S, given that some 100,000 were produced over twenty-five years. I
would feel differently if there had been only 10,000 produced.
On the issue of what is an improvement, it depends upon the frame of
reference of the person involved. My Type 1 swapper (lumper?) was
presented as someone looking at the price/performance involved with
putting together a really powerful car. That you and I might not go this
route is a testament to what we place value on, rather than pure economics.
- Need to Work with Something that is Known…
Probobly true for the corn farmer in N. Dakota but I find this
reasoning to be the most objectionable.Me, too. Of course, part of the thing I like about cars is learning
something new, so I guess I have no clear understanding of why anyone would
wanna trash something just because they aren’t familiar with it. Probably
an example of mental laziness.
Absolutely. Sometimes coupled with a fear of the unknown. I WANT to
learn about new things, and master them at that. You and I and most
people on this list share this trait, and it is a Good Thing.
How many times have you heard someone talk about something like, say, a
Mercedes diesel car with respect to how they last forever compared to the
gasoline version?Aha, another unjust social myth unmasked. I agree.
Hate to suggest this, but it’s probably true. The diesel engine is
inherently more durable, simply because the fuel has more lubricity than
gasoline; it drastically reduces upper cylinder and valve wear. The engines
typically also have no power to speak of, which lowers the stresses on
everything else in the car. And, finally, the person that would buy a
diesel has an entirely different mentality than us jag-lovers, and is likely
to treat his car differently than we treat ours.
Well, I did allow for conservative driving in my original posting. But
conservativelly driven gasoline cars don’t do so bad, either (everyone
wants the ‘little old lady’ car.) And yes, diesel engines do tend to go
farther than gasoline jobs, for the reasons you mention. But suspension
bushings don’t wear out as a function of upper cylinder lubrication, but
by how often and hard you load them and bounce (and if they are English,
by how many oxygen molecules and photons of sunlight they have been
subjected to :] ).
So I agree with your points, but my point was that all of these factors
give diesel automobiles the myth of great longevity, where the fact base
suggests that other factors are at play. The same myth generators have
ruled Jag engines unworthy :[ . Why, just today getting gas and
checking under the hood, the attendant came out and offered me this
unsolicited advice: “You should put a Chevy in there.” Why did he say
this? He was all of 18 and has probably never even ridden in a Jag. He
was just reciting the myth.
Then I guess there are just dang fools, like those that install aluminum
siding on brick houses…
I’ve participated on this list for some time, and there seems to be
precious little, if anything, fundamentally wrong with Jag engines.Hooray, I couldn’t agree more. Besides, if the motors were really
that terrible, Jaguar would have lost lots of money in the long run
and would have either remedied the proiblem or changed. Not strictly
true for all of the car, but a general fact of doing business.Actually, this is where I feel the problems have occurred – not just with
Jaguars, but with British cars in general. The British – especially Jaguar
– have always been able to design their cars with esthetics far superior to
those of other countries. They may not be the sleekest, or the most
fashionable, or the flashiest, but British cars have always managed to be
some of the most visually attractive around. IMHO, this has PREVENTED them
from being forced to straighten out their act, where any other cars with
comparable problems would have gone under long ago. Their relentless good
looks, combined with nearly constant rumors that “they have addressed all
their problems, only the older cars had trouble, the new ones are reliable”
have managed to keep their sales going through thick and thin.
This is an extremely interesting point. It seems perfectly valid.
Maybe no one swaps lumps into Bentleys and Rollers because their owners
can afford not to. By the time the cars degrade to the point where the
rank-and-file swap in lumps, they are off everyone’s radar screens. The
lower end Brit cars don’t show on the radar, either – not too much of
an aftermarket for Mini lump conversions. So Jaguar is right in the
middle and ‘suffers’ most!
And there is an certainly an analog here to relationships
between the sexes!
John
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 12:39:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Inlet Manifold Design
So to net this all out, is there no reason to make any intake manifold
mods on a basically stock V12? Other than opening the intake horns on
the air cleaners (been there, done that) and maybe low restriction filters
(K&N, ibid)? And radiusing the butterfly housing edge as described in
your book (not yet done)?
(On the (humorous) vacuum leak idea, you know that the guys at Lucas would
design some sort of feedback system to provide a variable vacuum leak.
I’m sure that the team that concocted the climate control would be up to
the task! :] )
John
On Tue, 30 Jul 1996, Kirby Palm wrote:
John Napoli:
Are these manifolds available, and at what price?
I dunno. I’m also not entirely sure how suitable they are for the stock 5.3
litre engine. He’s using them on his 8.1 litre. Going to larger pipes on
an inlet manifold is similar to using larger pipes on an exhaust manifold –
better at high power, while sacrificing benefits at lower speeds. The
smaller tubes on the stock 5.3 may provide better ram at low RPM due to
higher velocities in the tubes.And what about simply welding on a second or third throttle plate body –
spacing them properly – onto the stock manifold?This is two entirely different issues. Adding butterflies provides more
throttle opening, which will help if the throttles are restrictive and won’t
do any good at all if they’re not; in the case of the stock 5.3 with its
huge butterflies, I seriously doubt if additional butterflies will provide
much benefit. If you haven’t opened the air filter housing intakes, it
definitely won’t do anything at all.The ram tubes are a different idea. The butterflies open into a plenum, and
the ram tubes go from this plenum to each cylinder. During the intake
strokes, the air gets moving in these tubes and then tries to KEEP moving as
the piston comes to a stop at the bottom of its stroke, causing a ram
effect. Going to larger pipes allows more flow at top end, but reduces the
ram effect at low flow – so it tends to move the torque curve upward. Good
for racing, not good for street.Could the same balance be achieved by introducing just the right sized
vacuum leak in the center cylinders?You try it, and report on the results.
A leak will provide about the same amount of air at all times, while the
boost due to ram effect varies with RPM. You’d always be off somewhere.Actually, there is one method used on some other design manifolds that solve
similar problems: a separate small tube comes from the plenum and connects
to the side of a runner. This tends to kill the ram up to that point, so
the effective length of that tube is back to what the others are. Makes an
ugly manifold, though.-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | -- Palm's Postulate
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 12:41:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: US Engines (small and large)
There you go!!!
John
On Tue, 30 Jul 1996, Kirby Palm wrote:
John Napoli:
Now that the manufacturers refer to engine sizes
metrically, I would bet that a ‘3.8 liter Minivan’ has no meaning to them
whatsoever – meaning that they can not relate it to the equivalent
English unit (“380 cubic inches, right?” :] )You can drop the smilie. I personally knew a Bubba who (through some
bizarre set of occurrences) owned a 450SEL Mercedes. Was VERY disappointed
when I explained to him that did not mean 450 cubic inches.-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | -- Palm's Postulate
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 11:50:11 -0500
Subject: The resurection of old #25
Well, it is underway finaly. The insurance is settled and the recipient car
has been contracted for.
I will get my car back for $1100. That is too much considering they would
be lucky to get $600 at auction. But on the other hand I know the value of
the several parts so I am paying it (under protest). I will also get $4875
in cash. (net $3775 after buying back my wreck)
I found a 1985 XJ6 that I will get for $4500. It needs a motor transplant
and a transmission transplant (still has the BW66 bucket of bolts).
My mechanic will transplant the engine/tranny/tow hitch for $810 and the
interior for $110. He is willing to allow me $500 for all the left over
salvage so the transplant will cost only $420 plus the cars.
The bottom line is I get a 1985 XJ6 with a book value $2200 greater than my
1982 XJ6 and the cost to me is $1345 plus incidentals so lets say $1500.
The new car already has a realitively new $3000 paint job (refrigerator
white, which is good down here in Texas). The old one needed a paintjob.
It will have my 2 month old leather interior and the TH350 transmission.
I will still have to pay to have the shocks (brand new) swaped and the tires
swaped onto the XJS wheels. We havent negotiated that yet, but it shouldnt
be too much more.
I think it will turn out fairly well except for the $205 fine my wife had to
pay for the illegal left turn.
I am wondering if I should let her drive the Seville for a while. It needs
a paint job too…#8-)
The white paint job means it will be easier to put my racing number (#25) on
it since I wont need the white circle behind the number.
Wish me luck, I am going to need it.
“Prefiero morrir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”
Gen. Emiliano Zapata
1879-1919
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 12:52:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Jag engines and lumps
The point, really, is that so few people these days seem to listen and
think. They rely on what they have been spoon fed. Your points on how
to evaluate an improvement are more based on logic than hype – do you
really expect this to fly???
John
On 31 Jul 1996, Jan Wikstroem wrote:
I get two basic reactions when people find out that I drive a Jag:
1: Gee, I didn’t know journalism is that well paid!
2: How can you live with a car that spends 9 days out of 10 in the workshop?
I have given up on explaining to people that my car is 19 years old and cost me
half of what you pay for a so-called “family car”; they just won’t believe it.
So I just answer something flip like “it’s not - I just don’t piss up my money
in the pub every Friday”.As for the reliability thing, I just say “I wouldn’t know - mine hasn’t broken
down yet”. Which is sort of true; I’ve always managed to get home :3+).Seriously, the problem with “reputations” is that they’re all based on hearsay
and they all get exaggerated by people who seek to make themselves interesting
by making up or “improving” sensational anecdotes.I think a lot of people (mostly ignorant) swap in lumps not because they want
more power but because lumps have a reputation for being reliable and Jag
engines - even though you and I know that they’re practicall unbreakable -
don’t.Then again, in defence of the lump, an esoteric specification does not a good
engine make. What matters is not “quad cams, 32 valves” (barfsville, it should
be specified per cylinder anyway) but how many bhp @ what revs with how much
noise and vibration. Sadly, I can no longer remember which engine I read about
(BOP?) but Popular Mechanics was enthusing about this quad-cam 32-valve
injected V8 that put out the same bhp @ the same rpm as its pushrod carburetted
predecessor and I felt a sudden desire to write an article titled “the
Emperor’s New Engine”…Oh, I love the Jag V12 and think it the most marvellously excessive monster (I
call my XJC “old Sabretooth” when we’re alone) but I can see the other
viewpoint, too. Happiness is the name of the game, and you’re entitled to your
flavour as I’m entitled to mine.Sorry about all that, I’ll go and sober up now, before I get flamed again for
using too much bandwidth…
x-)
- Jan
From: Graham Watson grahamw@microsoft.com
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 09:43:14 -0700
Subject: RE: BW 66 Transmission
Other than draining and refilling, anybody know how to check - the
owners manual procedure of “Run till hot, park, wait, move stick slowly
through all positions and back to park, then check with engine running”
seems to give very inconsistent / dubious results …
-----Original Message-----
From: BJ Kroppe [SMTP:wkroppe@ford.com]
Sent: 31 July 1996 16:47
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Re: BW 66 Transmission
Tommy loner@peterboro.net wrote:
What would cause an “intermittent” transmission leak?
At work we have experienced transmission fluid geysers caused by
overfilling the transmission. The geyser emanates from the dipstick.
(side note: transmission dipsticks are going by the wayside in lieu
of sealed for life units)
A word to all: be very sure you have the correct amount of fluid in
your transmissions. It’s recommended to drain the transmission and
refill if you are in doubt.
B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6
From: Chris Howard christopher@netmanage.com
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 96 09:57:44 GST
Subject: '84 XJ6 VDP overheating
I’ve been noticing the temperature on my '84 XJ6 VDP has been getting
a little higher than normal recently, although it has been very hot
here in California, temperatures around 95 to 100 degrees, I am concerned
that i may need to look at some solutions for this, the gauge usually
shows at around 90c, but recently i find it running two notches
above that still in the green, but still running hotter than normal.
A few month ago, several people discussed what thier cat runs at-
my lady is getting to 98K miles and she may be in for a radiator boiling
or maybe just a check of the electric fan in front of the radiator.
thanks in advance for the advice.
Christopher Howard
E-mail: christopher@netmanage.com
7/31/96 9:57:44 AM
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From: Carl Sewell csewell@spidernet.com.cy
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 19:59:53 ±300
Subject: Major Problems with XJS V12
Further to My last Message the Engine is now completely stripped and
Cleaned. We Found the Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal Burned Out but the
Bearing is Fortunatly OK. We are now Waiting the Arrival in Cyprus
of the Required new Parts ready to Rebuild the Engine.
Any Tips on Fitting the Rear Oil Seal Welcomed. Have Read the workshop
Manual and Also Kirby Palm’s Tips for Fitting of this Seal
Thanks all who Replied with Ideas/Advise on My last Mail
Regards
C Sewell
csewell@spidernet.com.cy
From: Curt Onstott onstottc@ucs.orst.edu
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 10:03:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: 4.2 autopsy results – Questions
As some may recall, I made an offering of beer to whom ever correctly
guessed why my >200 mile Xj6 engine seized. Well I finally developed
enough courage to crack it open. I was happy to see that there were no
thrown rods etc. However, I immediately noticed that the end float was
way off. I pulled the center bearing and inspected the thrust bearings.
The front thrust bearing has spun and is now jammed between the crankshaft
and the center main bearing pillar. This is why I have not been able to
turn the crank.
I must not have done a very good job setting the end float! I think the
problem was that I checked the end float after I fitted the rear oil seal.
It clamped down on the crank so much, that I could not move the crankshaft
enough to see if clearances were correct. Also, what is the best type of
seal to use on the rear oil seal? I used the rope one and it was a real
pain to fit.
The thrust bearing surface on the crankshaft is worn. I’m assuming that I
can have these surfaces polished at a machine shop and then fit oversize
thrust bearings. What is the maximum oversize that I can get?
- -Pessimist: “This ship is sinking.” -Optimist: “This ship is half full.”
Curt Onstott - Windows/DOS/PC Specialist - Information Services - Oregon
State University. - (541) 737-1483 - Office: Kerr 217
From: LLoyd 3030P@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 96 09:58:10 PDT
Subject: Restoration Update
I’ve been working on my '71 “E” type for about 21 months now, and have just
made a breakthrough. Wanted to share my progress with the group, so if you
aren’t interested, now’s the time to delete.
When I got it, the floors and sills were rusted and she sagged in the middle.
The drive train was in excellent shape and the interior was gone. I spent most
of the first year getting parts and having the welding done. Replaced the
entire floor, inner and outer sills. The rest I’ve done myself.
Sunday night I got the back bumper on. By last night I had the rear lights
on and working, and the entire trunk interior finished. What a difference,
having cleaned out an large corner of the garage that was filled with parts.
About 3/4 of the interior is installed (not a difficult job), the doors are
painted and on. Haven’t started on the bonnet yet, or the top. The engine
compartment is about 98% detailed out.
A good thing about painting with these new acrylic paints is that if you get
a sag or fish eye, you can resand and blend in new paint. Fixed a bug hole
that way. He flew into my wet paint and left a big black spot. Uggh!
Great feeling of accomplishment!! LLoyd
From: RBRABLEC@npr.org
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 13:18:28 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Jaguar rims for sale.
FOR SALE:
Original Jaguar XJS five spoke aluminum rims, brand new, never mounted,
hardware included.
Price: best offer.
E-mail: rbrablec@npr.org
Tel: (301) 652-6330
From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 19:48:15 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: [SIII XJ6] LH side front fender/wing fit
I’m going to have to replace the LH side front fender/wing on my '86 Series
III XJ6 4.2 Sovereign after a young lady completely failed to see me and
then completely failed to apply the brakes until she had planted her
little Japanese midget car firmly into said fender/wing.
“Ooops, I didn’t see you!” No shit, Sherlock.
Anyway, this happened a month or so ago so I’ve had time to cool down now.
My favourite body man has finally found the time to fix the damage so
I’ve started to check around for parts.
Some of the parts people I’ve talked to have warned me that these
fenders/wings do not simply bolt on, they have to be custom fitted and
that’s a lot of work. This is said to even apply to original Jaguar
fenders/wings.
Anyone ever done this or know of someone who has? How much time should an
experienced fender-bending, hammer-touting body man expect to use just to
make the fender/wing fit the car (the car is otherwise as straight and
perfect as any pre-XJ40 Jaguar could be expected to be)? 4 hours? A full
8 hour day? More?
Grateful for any info or insights on this…
Gunnar
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar XJ6 4.2 Sovereign
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | Vicki who? What .sig virus?
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #256