Jag-lovers-digest V2 #22

owner-jag-lovers-di1 · April 1, 1996, 12:53am

jag-lovers-digest Monday, 1 April 1996 Volume 02 : Number 022----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: miurasv miurasv@ebicom.net
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 1996 13:47:54 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: MSD ignition

I have used MSD ignitions on my street cars. I have had to take them off
all of them except my Lamborghini. On my EType and my Ferraris, they
overheated the coils and the car would start to miss and finally stall. I
use an MSD7 and MSD super heavy duty coil on the MiuraSV and have not
had any problems. I guess ordinary coils and even ordinary heavy duty
coils don’t stand up to the amount of voltage produced.
AL

On Fri, 29 Mar 1996, Randy Wilson wrote:

Anyone have a schematic for an MSD ignition? Anyone have any idea whether
it would be applicable to my series II E-type?

Yep, and yep.

I am removing it from my Lola racer and cant see just throwing it on the
shelf. It ought to be good for something. I doubt it could be used on the
XJ6 or the Seville since they are both computer controlled.

XJ6 Series III, yes. XJ40, no. The Series III is not computer controlled. It’s
mechanical, with an electronic switching. The electronics are pretty much the
same as a small block Chevy HEI (and a 2 Liter Fiat Spyder :). What American
speed-parts company would design something not compatable with HEI? :>

Maybe I could put it on the AMC 360 in my Bricklin.

Should work here, too.

Any suggestions?

Install it where ever you want. If it doesn’t seem to make any difference,
pull it back out. Those things (6A series, anyway) are hell on coils. The
Jag XK engine, at street rpm’s, probably will not benefit that much, due
to it’s hemi head and centralized plug. The Bricklin, with it’s 4"+ bore
and side plug would most likely gain the most.

Second thought. Maybe, just maybe, the Series III with the MSD, a hot coil,
and the plug gap pried out to around .050 (1.3mm), will idle smoothly. :>

Randy

From: miurasv miurasv@ebicom.net
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 1996 13:49:32 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: MSD ignition

I forgot to mention in my last post concerning problems with the MSD on
my cars that I have installation instructions for the MSD 6 and 7. I
don’t have the internal schematic for the units.
AL

On Fri, 29 Mar 1996, Randy Wilson wrote:

Anyone have a schematic for an MSD ignition? Anyone have any idea whether
it would be applicable to my series II E-type?

Yep, and yep.

I am removing it from my Lola racer and cant see just throwing it on the
shelf. It ought to be good for something. I doubt it could be used on the
XJ6 or the Seville since they are both computer controlled.

XJ6 Series III, yes. XJ40, no. The Series III is not computer controlled. It’s
mechanical, with an electronic switching. The electronics are pretty much the
same as a small block Chevy HEI (and a 2 Liter Fiat Spyder :). What American
speed-parts company would design something not compatable with HEI? :>

Maybe I could put it on the AMC 360 in my Bricklin.

Should work here, too.

Any suggestions?

Install it where ever you want. If it doesn’t seem to make any difference,
pull it back out. Those things (6A series, anyway) are hell on coils. The
Jag XK engine, at street rpm’s, probably will not benefit that much, due
to it’s hemi head and centralized plug. The Bricklin, with it’s 4"+ bore
and side plug would most likely gain the most.

Second thought. Maybe, just maybe, the Series III with the MSD, a hot coil,
and the plug gap pried out to around .050 (1.3mm), will idle smoothly. :>

Randy

From: “rldsr” rldsr@mbs.net
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 1996 15:33:43 -5000
Subject: british daimlers

Need to sell the following british daimler automobiles: 1949 DB 18
“foursome” has three position drop head. Unrestored $17,500. and
1953 DB 18 special sport drop head. Unrestored and in need of a few
parts $14,500. Either of these automobiles will appeal to the
collector who wants something truly classic. Respond to
rldsr@mbs.net.
Richard L. Daggett
611 SE 39th Terrace
Ocala, FL. 34471
352-496-4890

From: RogerS7642@aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 1996 17:22:25 -0500
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #21

Workshop repair manuals are best purchased from the dealer of from others who
advertize in Hemmings. Watch out! There are errors and omissions in the
Jaguar publication. I have come across many of them in my time. Do not trust
the wiring diagram. It is plain wrong in many aspects.

The Haynes manual is a good deal cheaper, but there are many items it does
not cover.

If you have specific questions, jag-lovers-digest is as good a place as any
to have them answered.

Roger

From: Jim Goring jgoring@ccnet.com
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 1996 14:29:43 +0000
Subject: Re: MSD ignition

miurasv wrote:

I have used MSD ignitions on my street cars. I have had to take them off
all of them except my Lamborghini. On my EType and my Ferraris, …

Don’t you just hate messages that start like this?

sheesh… makes me feel like setting fire to the 16 year old family Vanagon and 10 year old
daily Fox parked in front of hobbled 31 year old S-type…

ahhh…

-Jim

From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 1996 14:22:42 -0800
Subject: Re: HR or SR tires to replace VR series?

Do not put a 205 on a XJ40, especially a Pirelli P5! The way the
front suspension works the edges roll over way too easily. You need a
wider tire, 215 with a 65 or 70 profile works fine. I’ve seen the P4000
on many different Jags and they seem to be a good choice. Think of the
VR rating as a bit of extra insurance.

Daniel Crone wrote:

Recommended for the 89 XJ40 is P205/70VR15. The VR is a stiffer tire than
either the HR or the SR. The HR and SR are more readily available in this
area, and seem lesser priced. My question is: Is it worth the extra money
for the VR series when 80 mph is as fast as I ever drive? There is a Pirelli
P4000 series that is 89.99 and comes in a V rating. This is much less than
the over 200$ per tire asked for the Pirelli P5, the original equipment
tire. Any experience, positive or negative, with tires out there?

From: HDR64@aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 1996 18:00:58 -0500
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #21

It is my opinion that the Jaguar factory service manuals are the best
available on the market. Haynes manuals and other aftermarket manuals such as
Chilton etc do not have near the amount of information that the factory
manuals have.

If you do find a discrepency with a factory manual, then it might be
reasonable to buy a Haynes and check against it’s schematic. But if you are
going to any serious jaguar work, you need the factory version.

As to WHERE to buy the manual. You can buy through a dealer(usually paying
the highest price) or purchase from someone in a specialty magazine like
Hemmings or purchase from a reputable business in your local area or even ON
LINE. (My company does sell Jaguar parts and accessories from on line
contacts.)

Good Luck in all your Jaguar repairs!

Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax

Specializing in parts, service, and accessories for British and European Cars
since 1959.

From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@compuserve.com
Date: 30 Mar 96 18:36:21 EST
Subject: XJC body numbers, XK120 parts

Re XJC:  Don't forget that there were separate series of chassis numbers

for RHD and LHD, but that body numbers were undifferentiated. That is probably
the most important factor that upsets the correlation that some expect between
chassis numbers and body numbers.
Re XK120 parts: sound very difficult to get. What about finding another
120 with a radio and copy the brackets? I had not heard of the black bodied
spark plugs before.
Regards, John Elmgreen

From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@compuserve.com
Date: 30 Mar 96 18:36:17 EST
Subject: XK120 - various

Re XK120 DHC steering column grommets and Dick's message:  Dick, I think

that the sleeve type you refer to is in fact BD 8514 shown in the DHC parts book
at page 38 and illustrated at Plate H 16 - it is the large cone shaped rubber
thing. However, exactly what part no. 814 is I am not sure. Was there another
grommet underneath the large cone/sleeve thing? Also I could not find the
cone/sleeve BD 8514 listed in the FHC parts book, although I would expect the
DHC and FHC to be the same here. Also the DHC shows a cover plate BD 6514 for
814, which is again not shown for the FHC. What does this all mean?
AAaarghhhh! I have good photos of the engine compartments of several quite
original DHCs but no FHCs.
Screws and washers for trims: I agree with Dick that these are very
important if you want to maintain the original look of trim, and a feature that
is so often messed up. The screws I think were typically BD 539/2 or 3 or 4 and
the cup washers BD 539/2. JCNA says that they were 3/16" head. Certainly they
have been available (not sure about now). I agree with the 3/16" head - same as
on the bootlid trim of my 150. You need to get the head size right, make sure
that they are rounded heads and countersunk - not always an easy combination to
find. I suppose that lengths vary. BD 539/1 screw is 3/4" long (plus about
1/32" for the rounded head). The cup washers are important too - they are only
a kind of partial cup - like a tea cup - without a return. Hard to describe.
XKs look crook (Aussie expression here) with large Phillips head screws and
large lumpy washers on the doors and interior trim generally. The originals are
quite small and discrete.
Jim Canedy asked re source for casting numbers for the head and block he
has - sorry to disappoint and not reveal a mysterious source, but they were in
the parts book! Jim, you are on the list so far as I am concerned. I ask that
others add Jim’s address to any messages and copy him in. Interesting sounding
120 racer to say the least!
XK120 alloy bumpers - Tony Parkinson says they are original and rare.
Has anyone else ever heard of these? 670207 apparently has these, I have never
heard of them before so far as I recall. XK120 wheel arch / boot area
braces: has Dick found the answer to this mystery? Sounds good re the
“stiffener” in the DHC parts book, but the rear quarter panel bracket BD 6764-5
for the FHC does not sound like the right bit to me (although I am not sure what
it is!).
Petrol filler covers: interesting that some later 120s may have had
moquette. When Suffolk & Turley in Coventry retrimmed ny 120 years ago, they
trimmed it with moquette. I did not query it. So far as I can work out with
the 140, the standard cars had moquette and the SE had Hardura. But the JCNA
says that the standard 140 did NOT have moquette, it was black. Some confusion
here. Any comments?
Re this group: can all please copy all others on all messages? I asked
Nick J of the Jag Lovers list whether he knew of any simple software that would
allow us to send messages to one address and have them automatically distributed
from there to another address. He said that the majordomo software of whatever
that the Jag Lovers list uses is an overkill, but my service provider
(CompuServe) cannot supply a redirecting facility like this. Also. Nick asked
if we would put the messages on the Jag Lovers list too, as you never know when
another XK owner may be lurking. I will send this to the List anyway.
Incidentally I will try to circulate a list of those in this group in the next
week or so (to each other) in case you need to update your records.
Re spark plugs: mention on Digest #20 of black bodied XK120 spark plugs.
I had never heard of these before. Can anyone provide a description?
Re my originality project: having gone through the parts books (and
summarised etc), I have now gone through the JCNA originality material on 120s
and 140s and added notes from there, as well as Bruce Carnachan’s CJA handout on
the same subject. Next will be the 150 JCNA material, and after that the Jaguar
Service Bulletins which I have now read but not added to my draft notes. Also,
anything that you guys out there contribute is noted for future reference.
Regards, John Elmgreen

From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@compuserve.com
Date: 30 Mar 96 18:41:01 EST
Subject: Paul Borel

There used to be a guy called Paul Borel who wrote some good stuff on XK
originality for a publication called Jaguar Quarterly in the 1970s in US. I
think it was a publication of one of the trim suppliers. Anyone heard of him
lately or know where he might be contacted? Regards, John Elmgreen

From: WestNet mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 1996 19:59:56 -0500
Subject: Re: E-Type Restoration Books

At 05:06 PM 3/28/96 -0600, you wrote:

I’ve just joined the list (will send introductory mail later). I have a 70
E-Type roadster that needs aesthetic help. I was considering buying the
“practical CLASSICS & car restorer E-Type Jaguar Restoration” shown in
Jaguar World Feb 96 as a bonus for subscribing. It is available in the US?
Does it have an ISBN number? Is it any good? Is there something better?

Thanks,

Jim Van Riper
Lenexa, KS, USA

The Practical Classics book is available in the US. ISBN 1873098 03 0. It is
a reasonably detailed overview of the restoration process, with lots of
high-quality pictures. The car in the book is a Series I coupe, so you will
not get any help with your ragtop or carbs, but otherwise the mechanicals
and body work should be simliar. I recommend this book highly.

You should also check out ‘Jaguar E-Type Six Cylinder Restoration &
Originality Guide’ by Thomas F. Haddock ISBN 0-87938-516-2. This book has
lots of great close up photos, and documents many minute details.

The best workshop reference available is 'The Complete Official Jaguar “E”
by Robert Bentley. This is a compendium of official Jaguar driver’s
handbooks, workshop manuals and tuning guides. My copy is very old, but the
ISBN is 0-8376-0136-3 (I don’t think this would change with the current
edition). All three books are available by mail order from Classic Motor
Books, 1800 826-6600.

Finally, Jaguar World magazine serialized a Series I OTS restoration ffrom
1994-1995. I know that back issues are available.

‘Original Jaguar E-Type’ is a disapointment. I do not recommend it.

Mike Frank
'69 E-type 2+2
Bronxville, NY

From: jamesc@oasis.novia.net (jc)
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 1996 21:08:37 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Engine Numbers

John. When searching for the stamped numbers on the block and head I did not
even consider the possibility of a part number. I thought this had to be a
casting series. I have always just checked the engine number ( which is not
present) This solves one problem but now I am curious why this would be in Momo
and Cunningham’s shop and race prepped. They did not race 150’s. They did
build John Fitch’s special.This engine has a modified pan that looks like a
rewelded MK II with a shorter height, two large dimpled areas to clear some
type of frame member. What about the polished rods,crank,et al. with “OK>LAB>
C&E”? Any Ideas?

The Jaguar Quarterly was published by Bassett’s in Rhode Island 1-401-539-3010
I have not heard of the author described. Thank you for all your efforts

JIM CANEDY (SS100,XK120Racer,Mk V DHC,150S,MK VII,Ex2)

From: WestNet mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 00:10:39 -0500
Subject: Re: Jaguar World

At 10:06 PM 3/30/96 -0500, you wrote:

Hi Mike,
re: your mail about restoration books, etc.
I have not been able to find Jaguar World up here
in Toronto, Canada. Presumably you have some issues.
Could you send me the address for that mag, please?
I have a '62 series 1, ots, and would like to get hold
of the '94-etc issues that serialized the restoration of this
E-Type.
Many thanks,
Charles Daly

Jaguar World is published in G.B. The Publisher is:

Kelsey Publishing Ltd.
Kelsey House
77 High Street
Bekenhan, Kent BR3 1AN, England
Tel 0181 658 3531
Fax 0181 650 8035

US distributor is:
Eric Waiter Associates
369 Springfield Ave
PO Box 188
Berkeley Heights, NJ 07922
tel 908 665 7811
Fax 908 665 7814

I know that the publisher still had back issues as of December, 1995. They
were available for L3.75 , plus L1.50 postage (special deal: buy all ten,
pay for eight). The series bagan with the July/August 1994 issue, and
concluded with the January/February 1996 issue. Hope this helps.

From: jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk (Stefan Schulz)
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 08:48:23 GMT
Subject: Jaguar repair manuals

In message 960330172224_501884940@emout04.mail.aol.com RogerS7642@aol.com writes:

Workshop repair manuals are best purchased from the dealer of from others who
advertize in Hemmings. Watch out! There are errors and omissions in the
Jaguar publication. I have come across many of them in my time. Do not trust
the wiring diagram. It is plain wrong in many aspects.

The Haynes manual is a good deal cheaper, but there are many items it does
not cover.

Well, apart from the Haynes and the four-binder dealer manual, is there
anything you can recommend ?

Also, how does one get hold of the updates for the official manual that are
sent to Jag dealers from time to time ?

Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk

From: Roly Alcock roly@redac.co.uk
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 12:45:49 +0100 (BST)
Subject: Re: Jag better than Caddy? Oil pressure loss!!

On Sat, 30 Mar 1996, James A. Isbell wrote:

Just then I noticed a flicker in the oil pressure needle and watched in
horror as it droped through 40, settling on 25lbs while at 70MPH!!! I

Or maybe it is something else. The main symptom is that it was sudden and
that the pressure seems to varry some while cruising at a constant speed.

This scenario happened to my nephew’s 85 4.2 sovereign XJ6, I was following
him at the time so I can state that there was no visible clue, that I could
see.

Anyway preliminary checks revealed nothing obviously amiss, so he just
lived with it. The pressure was now a steady 20lb.

2 months later he sold the car to a dealer, cos he now had a company car.

1 week after the primary cam chain snapped.

Draw your own conclusion as to whether the two incidents were related,
I don’t know but…

Cheers

Roly

Roly Alcock, (Postmaster) Principal Systems Engineer
Redac Systems Ltd, Tel: 01684 294161 ext. 211
Zuken-Redac Group Limited, Fax: 01684 298902
Green Lane, Internal redac E-mail: roly@redact
Tewkesbury, External E-mail: roly@redac.co.uk
Gloucestershire, GL20 8HE, UK Web: http://www.redac.co.uk

From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@compuserve.com
Date: 31 Mar 96 07:58:21 EST
Subject: Side screens

Can anyone tell me what screws and nuts are used for the XK120 side screens
(curtains), and what washers? Regards, John Elmgreen

From: densmith@islandnet.com (Dennis Smith)
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 96 09:54 PST
Subject: XK120 parts

Hi John,

10> Re XK120 parts: sound very difficult to get. What about finding an
10>120 with a radio and copy the brackets? I had not heard of the black bodied
10>spark plugs before.
10> Regards, John Elmgreen

The owner is really serious about obtaining original brackets. When he
required an original radiator, he hunted down Jaguar’s original
supplier of radiators for the XK120 and lo and behold, they had one on
the shelf which he was able to purchase. I also have not heard of the
black bodied spark plugs (but then I am no XK120 expert!).

Regards,

Dennis Smith

� OLX 2.2 � Why isn’t phonetic spelled the way it sounds?

From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 10:01:40 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Oz Jag-list fund

Hi everyone,

just a short note for Australian Jag-lovers who intend to contribute to
the upkeep of the Jag-lovers list.

Along the lines of Lawrence’s US fund management, I’m collecting local
donations for the Jag list fund. Due to a later start, I will accept
donations up until easter and perhaps later if you could warn me via email.

The postal address for contributions is:

Robert Dingli
PO Box 532
Ringwood, 3134
Victoria
Australia

Remember to send photos which I will package with my own and send to Nick.

Initial contributions have been received from:

Jan Wikstroem
Tony Watts

and promises from a few others

I tend to collect mail from here once a week, so hang in there if I haven’t
immediately confirmed receipt of your letters.

thanks guys,
Robert

Robert Dingli   r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au

Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 1 Apr 96 11:42:31
Subject: Re: More on XJ6C body numbers

Craig Tiano wrote:

On my '70, the number is stamped into the metal of the body structural
member that goes across the front of the car over the radiator.

That’s a great place to put it, since it’s a bolt-on piece that can be swapped
out in five minutes (plus an hour to shift all the relays and fix the slack
connectors…8+). I believe the “official” place for the VIN is on the flange
where the engine bay brace bolts to the top of the right-hand wing.

- Jan

** Are you sure (N/N)? **

From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 10:45:36 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S ECU Open/Closed Loop

Kirby writes,

Or that doohickey at the rear end of the left manifold. But herein lies
another question for Dingli: Does the EFI system provide a fixed amount of
fuel per revolution at idle, or does it vary with manifold vacuum? Even if
it were fixed, you would think that an air leak would raise the idle,
therefore causing more pulses and bringing the AFR back into line.

EFI systems often provide a fixed fuel rate per revolution during cranking
since the air flow or manifold pressure signals tend to fluctuate too much
or are outside the measurable bounds of the sensors. On the other hand,
while idling, the ECU will carefully meter fuel according to engine load
measured from manifold pressure signals for a speed density system or mass
air flow for other systems.

regards,
Robert

PS. Kirby, you have my permission to refer to me as Robert

Robert Dingli   r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au

Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 1 Apr 96 11:55:23
Subject: Re: lesson learned

Robert you were too much the gentleman. At least give yourself the
satisfaction of posting the offending mechanic’s business name here so
the list members can steer clear of it. He should have offered to
rebuild your brake system!

Oh, he should have offered, all right - but why would you let him, considering
his performance the first time?
8+)

By all means let’s have a blacklist - but we might have to think about
defamation laws first…

- Jan

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #22

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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 1 April 1996 Volume 02 : Number 023

From: arnoldr@magicnet.net (Ron Arnold)
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 19:55:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Search for a vehicle

Ben wrote:

I’m still looking to enter the club of Jag owners. Lately I have been in
persuit of az '78 XLJ6 with a Chevy conversion already installed.<

Ben

Oh Jeeze! Here we go again with the great ‘lump’ debate.

Hey Ben, do what ya gotta do, but don’t buy a bad conversion and then call
the Jag a crappy car. Good luck, and BTW, my friend Tom Curren had an
early '80’s ‘lump’ equipped Jag at the Central Florida All British Car show
today. No takers that I could tell…

Of course, Tom is still suffering from the electro-shock treatments…

Cheers,
Ron in Winter Park

arnoldr@magicnet.net

insert awe-inspiring quotation here!

From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 11:00:54 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S ECU Open/Closed Loop

Hi John,

Can you or Robert Dingli or Michael Neal confirm whether fuel flow is shut
off under trailing throttle?

Sorry, I don’t know enough about this particular system to answer.

And more questions, suggested by Neal’s instructions to check for closed
loop by monitoring O2 sensor voltage:

Do the O2 sensors operate by, say, changing their resistance such that the
correct voltage appears across them at stoich? Or, do they generate the
appropriate voltage at stoich? In either case, how does that tell you that
the ECU is in closed loop? Wouldn’t the appearance of the target voltage
just tell you that the AF ratio is at stoich? You would seem to be taking
it on faith at this point that the ECU is operating in closed loop. If this
conjecture is true, then don’t you really need a better way to tell when you
are in closed loop?

The O2 sensor generates a voltage between 0 and 1 volt. Half way inbetween
corresponds to stoich but the actual output as a function of air fuel ratio
(AFR) is very non-linear and switches abruptly from low to high levels.
The closed loop system adds a perturbation to the base fuel rate so that the
O2 sensor voltage switches from low (0.1-0.3V) to high (0.7-0.9) levels at
a frequency of about 2Hz. This minimises the temperature dependence of the
sensor and allows the ECU to handle the information in a digital manner.

To check that the ECU is in closed loop mode, connect a high input impedence
volt meter (preferrably not digital as you want to look at how the value
changes) to the signal wire while it is still connected to the ECU. Basic O2
gauges can be bought from speed shops or fabricated using a few basic
electronic parts. There is a web page somewhere (search for EGO sensor or
something similar) which details how to make one.

regards,
Robert

Robert Dingli   r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au

Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 1 Apr 96 12:08:27
Subject: Re: HR or SR tires to replace VR series?

Speed rating is purely a matter of resistance to heating at continuous high
speed. High-rated tires tend to be thinner and/or, as you say, stiffer. For my
money, the most important factors to look for are grip (dry and wet),
comfort/noise and cost per mile. VR tyres are not necessarily better in these
respects. Check out the motor mags for tyre tests!
There is nothing sacred about original equipment, except from the museum angle.
When it comes to driving performance, the thing to remember is that technology
marches ever forward…

- Jan

** Look unimportant - The enemy may be low on ammo **

From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 11:32:04 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: HR or SR tires to replace VR series?

Jan writes,

Speed rating is purely a matter of resistance to heating at continuous high
speed. High-rated tires tend to be thinner and/or, as you say, stiffer.For my
money, the most important factors to look for are grip (dry and wet),
comfort/noise and cost per mile. VR tyres are not necessarily better in these
respects. Check out the motor mags for tyre tests!

One other point to note, your local auto registration authorities and/or your
insurance company may specify that your car must be equiped with tyres of the
same rating as the originals. For example, this is a little known law in
Australia, defined by the Australian Design Rules (ADRs).

The last time my father replaced the tyres on his XJ SIII, the tyre retailer
asked him to check with his insurance company before fitting H rated tyres.

Certainly, V rated tyres aren’t necessarily the best performance/price
combination for many drivers.

Who knows when you might get the urge to drive over 210km/h?

regards,
Robert

Robert Dingli   r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au

Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 1 Apr 96 15:38:33
Subject: Re: HR or SR tires to replace VR series?

Robert Dingli: Who knows when you might get the urge to drive over 210km/h?

- every day, Robert, every day, but I resist it most of the time. Fortunately,
  even HRs will handle that for bursts of a couple of minutes, so there’s no
  danger of chunking on my way to work. In addition to which, I’m using VRs -
  simply because the only 235-60s I could find happened to be VR rated.

Seriously, though, you’re right about the insurance companies’ tyre rating
nonsense, although it appears to be one thing nobody checks (except tyre
salesmen who want to screw a few extra bucks out of you). I use the word
nonsense advisedly; Australia gets cars equipped with tyres for other markets
where speed limits are seen in a less constipated light than here, but we
shouldn’t change to a more appropriate tyre that actually is safer at the
speeds we use?

As it happens I asked my insurance company (NRMA) and was informed that they
had no restrictions except I couldn’t use rims wider than 7 inches. Which is
another futile prohibition, since nothing wider fill fit within the bodywork…

8+)

- Jan

** Life is full of little surprises. --Pandora **

From: croned@rcinet.com (Daniel Crone)
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 02:00:16 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Plugs swimming in oil!

I recently acquired an '89 XJ40 and tonight for no particular reason I
decided to take a spark plug wire off. Now I’m sickened. I don’t think the
engine design calls for plug wires to cook in 4 inches of oil. What is
wrong? 1 through 5 are just as I described, completely drenched in oil.
Plug 6 wasn’t too bad, not dry, but not swimming. Is this a gasket or
indicative of something far worse?

From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 1996 23:35:33 -0800
Subject: Re: Plugs swimming in oil!

When will people learn. If you are going to buy a car have it
checked out first! I really don’t get it. As far as oil in the spark
plug tubes, it is just the cam cover seals leaking. This is really a
sign of a neglected car though. Odds are you will have to spend at
least a couple of grand to get it in decent shape.

Daniel Crone wrote:

I recently acquired an '89 XJ40 and tonight for no particular reason I
decided to take a spark plug wire off. Now I’m sickened. I don’t think the
engine design calls for plug wires to cook in 4 inches of oil. What is
wrong? 1 through 5 are just as I described, completely drenched in oil.
Plug 6 wasn’t too bad, not dry, but not swimming. Is this a gasket or
indicative of something far worse?

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 1 Apr 96 18:58:13
Subject: Cooling experiment (SII XJ12)

In case it’s of interest to anyone:

Having trouble with cooling at highish speed (130-145 km/h or 80-90 mph) on hot
(the bitumen sticks to your shoes) Australian summer days, I went right through
both my SII V12s - rebuilt radiators, new pump and fan hub on one, new hoses,
new thermostats, 40% glycol coolant - with little joy. With 88 deg C
thermostats, both indicated between the “n” and “o” in “normal” when cruising
at 80 km/h (50 mph) but went to the “l” after 15 minutes at speed in hot
weather and were boiling briskly a minute after stopping (petrol boiling in the
injection piping, too).

As the water side overhaul brought no change, I concluded that the problem was
on the air side - small wonder, with so little space around the engine and
exhausts. I was looking at louvres in the bonnet and maybe outlets behind the
front wheels, which is all fairly major work, but thinking about the air flow
triggered a memory. I recalled reading about when Aston Martin introduced a
front air dam on the Vantage, and discovered that 80% of the air flow entered
through the chin inlet and air actually flowed back out through the top end of
the “normal” intake, which was duly blanked off.

The SII XJ doesn’t have an air dam, of course, but it does have a chin intake
and the bodywork gets fairly close to the road, so maybe the chin intake might
still be more important than it looks. But parked in the middle of this is a
dirty great backing plate and the front number plate. Flat-plate aerodynamics
being what you’d expect, this would divert so much of the air stream that
effectively 60% of the chin intake is blocked off at high speed.

So, I stored the backing plate from the Coupe (that being the car I intend to
keep) in my “original parts” bin and moved the number plate down from the
bumper bar location to below the bottom lip of the chin grille, where it’s now
pop-riveted on a pair of heavy stainless steel brackets at a typical air-dam
angle. Ground clearance is just right. That left the horns looking pretty
untidy, so I bolted them to the back of the number plate, where they just fit
the available space. My C has no fog lights, so I was spared the trouble of
removing those.

Well, you wouldn’t read about it. Having a good 20-minute blast with
enthusiastic use of throttle and brakes on a winding country road at 120-140
km/h (which I’ll energetically deny if the radar revenue collectors show up!)
on a good, hot summer day barely moved the needle past the “o” in “normal”. No
boiling after stopping and much later onset of vapour lock.

So maybe this was not a strictly scientific experiment with three-decimal-place
measurement of everything, but I’m satisfied. And next summer, I’ll get an air
dam…

- Jan

** 24 Hours In A Day, 24 Beers In A Case. Coincidence? I don’t think so. **

From: Donald.McGregor@snl.co.uk
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 10:05:23 +0100
Subject: Re: Plugs swimming in oil!

Contrary to the previous reply, oil aroung the plugs on an XJ40 is not
a problem.
Don’t Panic. This will cost you #50 for a new set of ‘O’ rings fitted
at a Jag dealers.

		Donald.

From: Donald.McGregor@snl.co.uk
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 10:14:52 +0100
Subject: Re: Ouch! - Jaguar Trade in Values

Visited the Jaguar garage at the weekend. Without looking at my car I
was offered
#4000 for my 1988 104,000mile 3.6 Sovereign. I was told that if I sold
it privately I could
get up to #5,500.

The dealers margin is about 8%, so cash for a new model you can expect
about 4%
off list price.
Donald.

From: ABatt10347@aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 08:43:18 -0500
Subject: Trust List

Along with a black list, how about a trust list? You know the guys that have
worked on your car and did a good job! I have one in the Nashville,TN area.
Classic Auto Works owned and operated by Bob Acuff. When I had wiper motor
problems he could have sent it off and charged big bucks but instead he
savaged some parts from old wiper motors and I was back in working order for
one tenth of what it could have cost!!!

                                                                    Bruce

Battles

From: BSherw@aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 08:42:34 -0500
Subject: Jaguar Suppliers List

Here are two corrections to the list of Jaguar Parts Suppliers, for any who
are trying to keep it current:
RE: Larry Bowling, and John Rhodes. I called the numbers listed for both
of these names just last week, as possible used XJ6 parts sources; both were
answered by housewives with little knowledge of Jaguars. (“Ain’t that some
kind of ‘furrin’ car?”)

From: “Jeff G. Wardeska” R21JEFF@etsu.east-tenn-st.edu
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 96 09:05:02 EST
Subject: Air rails.

Has anyone had experience with air rails? I recently bought a replacement for
mine which is rusting away ('84, SIII, 4.2L). Three of the tubes which attach
to the head have nozzles with very small openings, the other three are missing
these. Is this a critical problem? should I send it back? Thanks in advance
for any insight. Jeff.

From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@compuserve.com
Date: 01 Apr 96 09:31:37 EST
Subject: XK120 steering column

Dear Dick,  I agree that you are of course right about the steering

column “cuff” for the interior of the FHC and DHC. There are about 3 good
photos in Porter, for example.
James, re your engine and head, all I can guess is that these were just
the castings available at the time (same as they were using for 150s), and no
doubt the interesting stuff was what they did with them afterwards! I am not
much good on racing modifications, maybe someone else can help? I can suggest
however that the lack of engine number certainly seems to indicate that the
engine was never fitted to any car new. An interesting point is that for some
XKs part of the engine number was stamped on the crankshaft. Anyone else seen
this? Also the flywheel if I remember correctly. But I guess yours will not
have anything.
Dennis Smith - re original 120 radiator: I understand that here in
Australia we have to send XK radiators to New Zealand to get the correct old
fashioned core refitted!
Regards, John Elmgreen

From: jjoy@risc.sps.mot.com
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 09:00:02 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Jaguar Suppliers (posted monthly)

modified nov 3 – Newport Imports no longer in business, more desc.
for Ed West

Suppliers, North America (mostly).

(Corrections, etc, to: jjoy@risc.sps.mot.com)

The majority of this list has come from Rob Reilly reilly@admail.fnal.gov

   SUPPLIERS OF JAGUAR PARTS AND SERVICES               Rev. 3-27-95

A D Motor Rebuilding, NY 1-516-395-5101
Lucas, Smith’s motors rebuilt

Al Hogan’s Autojumble Mansfield, Ohio 1-419-524-1088
NOS parts supplier

Specializes in buying out old dealer stock. Owner (Al) is knowledgeable
about british car parts.

-Steve DuChene s0017210@cc.ysu.edu

Dick Ames, 608 Ft. Williams Pkwy, Alexandria, VA 22304 1-703-370-3097
stainless exhaust systems

Best price on stainless steel exhaust systems. I’ve misplaced the
address but can probably look it up if pressed.

-PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)

Ancient Car Parts, 64 N Main, Lyndonville, NY 14098 1-716-765-2894
rust repair panels for XJ

Apple Hydraulics, 715 Route 25A, Miller Place, NY 11764 1-800-882-7753
rebuilds Armstrong, Girling shocks, SU carbs 1-516-744-9627

Atlantic Enterprises, Route 4, Box 394-B, Loris, SC 29569 1-803-756-7565
steering racks, seal kits, polyurethane rack mounts

Auto Interiors of Europe, 1790 E McFadden, Unit 107 1-800-533-2886
interiors Santa Ana, CA 92705

(not sure which addr. is correct)
3023 S. Orange Ave.
Santa Ana, CA 92707
(714) 751-9046
Nice stuff if I remember correctly. Not cheap but nothing for these
beasts is.

- s912!rick@bnf.com (Rick Ezneker)

Kent Bain, 1785 Barnum Ave, Stratford, CT 06497 1-203-377-6745
custom interiors, seat rebuilding and repadding

G.W.Bartlett, Muncie, Ind. 1-800-338-8034
interior and trim parts

Sells original Jaguar Interior kits and components. All to exact Jaguar
specifications. As per original spec. Quite costly but isn’t quality
always a bit more? (eg. Interior kit for Jag 3.8s is about $4200, retail.)

- zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay)

Basset’s, Wyoming, R.I. 1-401-539-3010
restoration parts

Borla Industries, Oxnard, Calif. 1-805-983-7300
stainless exhaust

Bowling, Larry MO 1-314-888-1741
used parts

British Auto Center, 2938 SW Avalon Way, Seattle, WA 98126 206-935-0873

Lots of late model stuff, new and used. Very knowledgeable. Can
sometimes be grumpy. – Greg Meboe (meboe@wsunix.wsu.edu)

British Auto Interiors, 92 Londonderry Trnpk, 1-603-622-1050
interior and trim parts Manchester, NH 03104

British Auto USA Manchester, NH 1-800-452-4787
1-800-4-JAGPTS

Exc. inventory of interiors and body parts. Limited inventory of
mechanical parts but I always check them out because they’re cheaper!
(I avoid Bartlets for Jag interiors)

-PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)

British Car Parts, CA 1-818-788-7636
new and used parts

British Marque Auto PO Box 344, Bainbridge, PA 17502 1-717-426-2675
interiors

British Motor Service, 521 W. Katella, Orange, CA 92667 1-714-997-3800
Moss distributor, used XK parts

British Parts Northwest, 4105 SE Lafayette Hwy, 1-503-864-2001
new parts for late models, no sheet metal Dayton, OR 97114

British Restoration Parts, Kansas City, Mo. 1-800-821-3767
new restoration parts

British Spares, 46 Florence, Springfield, MA 01105 1-413-736-0463
fabricates panels for XK, Marks, E

British Vintages, 645-D Tank Farm Rd, 1-800-350-JAGS
San Luis Obispo, CA 93401 1-805-541-5986

Have their catalog but so far never used them.

-PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)

British Wire Wheel, 1650 Mansfield St, 1-408-479-4495
Santa Cruz, CA 95062
Dayton and Dunlop wire wheels, tires

THE place to go for correct reconditioning of your JagWires. Also to
buy THE correct tires.

-PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)

Bob Brosen, 7804 Billington Court, Oxen Hill, MD 20744 1-301-248-6327
new repro parts for pre-war, Mark IV, V

Classic Parts & Panels, Ltd. 0296 658938
Fleet Marston Farm, Bicester Rd., Nr Waddesdon
Aylesbury, Bucks, UK HD 18 ODZ XK panels

Classic Restoration Parts, Bellflower, Ca. 1-213-804-2756
XK grilles, gas tanks

Classic Tube 1-716-759-1800
A Division of Classic & Performance Specialists
80 Rotech Drive
Lancaster, NY 14086 USA

They supply steel and stainless steel pre-bent brake and fuel lines for
various makes of cars. I got half the brake lines and clutch lines
from them in stainless, and being the prudish restoration junkie I am,
I was concerned that the reproduction in stainless would not be very
“original”. However, I’m happy to say the final product is almost
identical to the original steel lines, most judges will not notice the
difference. – Mark Roberts (markdr@bnr.ca)

Concourse West, 644 Terminal Way, Costa Mesa CA 92627 714-642-9807
fax 714-645-8388

Have rebuilt diffs.

-PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)

Cordell R. Newby, 1410 N. Aurora, East Wenatchee, WA 98801 509-884-6823
Specializes in Mark V parts. New and used.

- s912!rick@bnf.com (Rick Ezneker)

Coshman Ent, PO Box 2685-J, Orcutt, CA 93455 1-805-937-7456
Whitworth tools, taps & dies, gauges, fasteners

Coventry Engineering, 9500 SW Martha St, Tigard, OR 97224 1-503-620-9482
wiring harnesses

Coventry S Ltd, 6406 85th Place, New Carrolton, MD 20784 1-800-537-4146
stainless exhaust systems

Joe Curto, 230-22 58th Ave. Bayside, NY 11364 1-718-465-4829
S.U. parts

Wes Czech, HCR 9550, Lucerne Valley, CA 92356 1-619-248-9603
XK parts

Stanley Daniel, 124 Parkview Rd. Cheltenham, PA 19012 1-215-782-1248
used Mark 7-9 parts from 30 cars, call after 9PM EST

Doctor Jaguar, 644 W 17th St, Costa Mesa, CA 92627 1-714-646-2816
parts, engines, trans, susp. parts

East Coast Jag Parts DE 1-302-731-7200

EJAG NEWS, Box J, Carlisle, Mass 01741 magazine, a few accessories

Engel Imports, Kalamazoo, Mich. 1-800-253-4080
new car dealer, will UPS, cheaper than other dealers

European Auto Specialists, 1-313-355-2730
OEM parts for late models

John Farrel, 4315 Murray St., Flushing, NY 11355 1-718-762-9071
NOS XK parts

Foreign Car Center, 1610 S Main, Milpitas, CA 95035 1-408-262-0325
used parts recycler

Grand Turisimo Jaguar, Eastlake, Ohio 1-800-852-4827, 1-216-951-2000
engine rebuilder, parts
Specializing in high performance parts and services. They list a
‘level 5’ Jaguar V12 with all of the whistles and bells like porting,
balancing, etc. with 6, count them, 6 two bbl Weber carbs mounted
vertically across the top of the V12! This engine sells for about
$13,500. - zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay)

Gunson Ltd., Pudding Mill Lane, London E15 2PJ
UK source for ColourTune

Tony Handler’s Foreign Parts Connection 1-213-473-7773
2028 Cotner Ave, Westwood, CA 90025

Harry CA 1-408-262-0235
used parts

H.P. Co., 1079 Colonial Club Dr, Harahan, LA 70123 1-504-737-4691
burled walnut dashboards

I-35 Imports Oklahoma 1-405-799-2886
used parts, 80 and older

Intermarque Auto Parts Houston 1-800-666-8700
parts and sheet metal

International Spare Parts 1-800-243-0073

J.K.Restorations, 12 Jackson, Oswego, IL 1-708-554-2120
complete restorations, specialist for XK and E, some used parts

Jag Atlanta, 3437 Sexton Woods Dr, Chamblee, GA 30341 1-800-533-8973
new, used parts for E and XJ 1-404-455-0175

Jaggist (Alan Trickel) 1065 Hillview, Ashland, OR 97520 1-503-535-8486
used XK parts

Jaguar Cars Inc, Public Relations, Mahwah NJ 1-201-818-9770
For a fee will authenticate your VIDNs.

-PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)

Jaguar Denver 1-800-426-4515
Lucas, Girling, Jag parts

Jaguar Heaven, 1433 Tillie Lewis Dr, Stockton, CA 95206-1130
info: 1-209-942-4524, orders: 1-800-969-4524, FAX: 1-209-942-3670
used parts recycler, all models

Jaguar Interiors of England, PO Box 47, Muncie, IN 47308 1-317-289-9901
carpeting and upholstery

Jaguar Motor Works, 3701 Longview Dr, Atlanta, GA 30341 1-800-331-2193
used XJ parts recycler, rebuilt parts Local 404-451-3839
FAX-404-451-7561

Jaguar of North America, Leonia, NJ 1-201-592-5200
factory American distributor

Jaguar South Greenville, SC 1-803-244-1555, 1-803-292-3934
used parts recycler

Jaguar parts SC 1-803-754-5363

Jaguar Warehouse, 6010 Mardale Lane, Burke, VA 22015 1-703-451-4071
NOS parts

Jaguar Warehouse, 5727 Walcott Ave, Fairfax, VA 22030 1-703-968-3983
XK parts

J C Whitney, Chicago, IL 312-431-6102

Also known as Warshawsky/Whitney. Sells car parts cheap for most cars
including LBCs. Massive buying power. Brainless order-takers. You
can call in the middle of the night for good long-distance rates. They
will not tell you brand names. All the swaybars are ADDCO. See also
ADDCO and Werace. - ?

J.C. Whitney offers a few items that are of interest. Things like generic
weatherstrip by the foot, etc. The do offer after market A/C units and
high output quartz halogen 7 inch headlights (110 watts!!!). The ad
carries the label ‘Not legal for street use.’ They look really cool.

- zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay)

John’s Cars, 800 Jaguar Lane, Dallas, TX 75226 1-214-426-4100
fax: 1-214-426-3116
V-8 conversions, other repro parts, claims improvements over stock

Just Jags, 407 Industrial Dr, Carmel, IN 46032 1-317-844-8823
new, used parts, service, restorations

Just Jags, 8720 Big Bend at Elm, St.Louis, MO 63119 1-314-968-2450
service, parts, restoration shop

Keller Associates, PO Box 2833, Saratoga, CA 95070 1-408-370-3705
burl walnut dashboards

Lister of North Am, 1912 Granvill Av, Muncie, IN 47308 1-800-338-8034
high performance accessories

Lovello, Mark SC 1-803-244-1555
used parts

Moss Motors, PO Box MG, 7200 Hollister Av, Goleta, CA 93116 800-235-6954
new and repro parts for XK’s

Moss Motors, Santa Barbara, California 1-805-963-0741
new car dealer

Cordell Newby, 1625 N Western, East Wenatchee, WA 98801 1-509-662-7748
new, used, repro parts for pre-war, Mark IV, V

added: Jul. 29, 1994
Nisonger Instrument Sales & Service 1-914-381-1952
570 Mamaroneck Ave. fax: 1-914-381-1953
Mamaroneck, NY 10543
Repairs capillary based guages.
“I had them repair my water temp gauge 2 months ago. Charge was $100 including
shipping, turnaround time was 2 weeks, and they take plastic.” Rob Reilly

Northwest Modern Classics, 121 Duryea, Raymond, WA 98577
interiors, carpets, upholstery, tops 1-800-854-1751,1-206-942-5532

Northwest Transmission Parts, Ohio 1-513-442-2811 or 1-800-327-1955
auto trans rebuilding kits, torque convertors

Peninsula Imports, 3749 Harlem Rd, Buffalo, NY 14215 1-800-999-1209
XJ, E body and rust repair panels 1-716-833-3000

Fred Petroske, RR1, Box 112, Chaumont, NY 13622 1-315-649-2861
used parts recycler, all models

Paul K. Phillips 1-305-846-7976
1124 N. W. 134 Ave. fax: 1-305-846-9450
Sunrise, FL 33323
Specializes in the XJ Coupe market and runs an XJC register.
“I have dealt with him once on an exhaust system (via a referral from
SICP) and got good service. He does require cash C.O.D. (no credit cards)
which is a bit of a bother.” - gladish@suite.com (Brian Gladish)

Phil’s, Inc. Ashland Ave, Evanston, IL 1-708-869-2434

PII Distributing, PO Box 27358, Houston, TX 77227-7358 1-800-231-5836
genuine Jaguar parts, sheet metal 1-713-975-6272

Chuck Pilate, 24996 W Magdalena Dr, Mt Clemens, MI 48045
XK, E parts 1-313-791-0429

Rich’s Import Auto Parts & Serv, 730 N Glebe Rd, Arlington, VA 22203
parts for E, XJ and 62 on sedans 1-800-336-6603, 1-703-522-0440

Rhino Auto Parts, Hanover, MN 1-612-498-8711
used and NOS parts 50’s to 70’s

Rhode Island Wiring Service, Box 3737H, Peace Dale, RI 02883
wiring harnesses 1-401-789-1955

Rhodes, John St. Louis, MO 1-314-961-2727
used parts

Martin Robey Panels, Pool Rd, Camp Hill 011-44-203-386-903
Industrial Estate, Nuneaton, Warks CV10 9AE England

Rodney, 2035 Cornell St, Sarasota, FL 33577 1-813-955-5960
used parts recycler

SCJ, 3 Elizabeth Ave, Burlington, MA 01803
NOS parts, pre-war to 61

Samplex, 30 Parkview Dr, Succasunna, NJ 07876 201-584-9370
US source for ColourTune

Special Interest Car Parts, 1340 Hartford Ave, Johnston, RI 02919
voice: 1-800-556-7496, 1-800-851-5600, 1-401-831-8850
fax: 1-800-672-SICP(1-800-672-7427), 1-401-831-7760
We have parts for your Jaguar, MG, Healey, TR. Good prices. Superb
catalog. Parts from XK120 through XJ40 including e-types. Will often
meet or beat prices from competitors.

S&S Specialties, 108 Sation St, Cumming, IA 50061 1-515-981-9148
NOS, rebuilt and used parts for XK, Mk and E, sheet metal parts

Stainless Steel Muffler Corp, 3032 Genesee St, Buffalo, NY 14225
stainless exhaust systems 1-716-893-2116

Terry’s Jaguar Parts, 117 E Smith St, Benton, IL 62812 1-800-851-9438
new and used parts for later models 1-618-439-4444

Bill Tracy, Sarasota, Florida 1-813-924-9523
new and repro parts for XK’s

Trans Ocean, Dept PDH, 390 Olive Tree Lane, Sierra Madre, CA 91024
Lucas parts jobber, '30 to '76 British cars

Welsh Jaguar Enterprises, Steubenville, Ohio 1-800-875-5247
new and repro parts for XK’s and newer 1-614-282-8649
fax: 1-614-282-1913
Catalogue available. (free)

The best prices for Jaguar parts that I have found.

- zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay)

Exc. inventory of parts, new and used. Can offer helpful technical advice.

-PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)

Ed West, 1941H Jan Marie Place, Tustin, CA 92680 1-714-832-2688
new, used, repro parts for earlier Jags

Ed west has lots of intresting stuff at very resonable prices and lots
of advice. – m_skogs@ix.netcom.com (Matthew Skosberg)

White Post Restorations, White Post, VA 22663 1-703-837-1140
restorations, brake and clutch cylinders resleeved

XK’s Unlimited, 850 Fiero Lane, San Luis Obispo, CA 93401 1-805-544-7864
new and repro parts for XK’s 1-800-444-JAGS
In CA: 805-544-7864 FAX: 805-544-1664

catalog available. ($6.00, refundable first order)
“Parts & Service for all model Jaguars from 1948 on” XK’s Unlimited is
a good place to send Girling calipers for for piston bore sleeving. -?

XK’s Unlimited is good, but is a bit higher than Welch Jaguar. They
are also committed to “correct” parts. Additionally, you can call them
without a part number. Just be sure that they tell you what is
included in the replacement part. - zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O.
Lindsay)

Good inventory and advice, but pricey. Nice catalogue. Has a
restoration shop sleeving brake cylinders in stainless.

-PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)

XKSS Interiors, Thousand Oaks, CA 91359 1-800-922-XKSS, 1-805-482-4682
interior and trim parts

Vicarage Jaguar 1-305-444-8759
% Gables Cats fax: 1-305-443-6443
220 Granello Avenue
Coral Gables, FL 33146
vicarage@ix.netcom.com (alt. vicarage@paradise.net)
http://paradise.net/vicarage

Vicarage says: If one is in need of specialized or hard to find parts
we will have them. In addition we do offer the unique Vicarage
upgrades and enhancement products for all post war Jaguars.

Zimmer, Bob 2675 Stoney Brook Rd, Orchard Park, NY 14127 1-716-652-7909
XK parts

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #23

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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 2 April 1996 Volume 02 : Number 024

From: Jim Marsden JMARSDEN@corel.com
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 12:15:58 -0700
Subject: 85 XJS STILL won’t run above idle

Hi All,
Thanks to all that have responded, but I am still having this problem. Let
me elaborate. Engine starts and runs about 300 - 400 rough idle. Fuel
pressure measured at the output of filter is about 70Lbs. Any movement
of the throttle produces no extra fuel and the extra air starves out the
process and the engine stalls. With throttle butterflys disconnected and
moving throttle pot separate produces VERY little engine action (only
about 50 rpm diff if any). Seems like throttle is not connected thru ECU to
injectors at all!
Once after running the engine for five or seven minutes like this
something clicked, (sounded electrical) and the thing took off. I have been
not able to reproduce this though.
There are three wires comming from the throttle pot, anybody have specs
on how they should behave? Restance reading disconnected or voltage
readings off running cars would be very helpful. Thanks in advance.

Regards,
Jim Marsden
Orem Utah
JMARSDEN@Corel.Com

From: “Alastar W. Lauener” bu08@central.napier.ac.uk
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 16:31:29 +0100
Subject: Crankshaft

John, you said re XK120

An interesting point is that for some XKs part of the engine number was
stamped on the crankshaft. Anyone else seen this? Also the flywheel if I
remember correctly. But I guess yours will not have anything.

My 64 3.4 S-Type engine had the engine number on the crankshaft web.
It may have been on the torque converter, but can’t remember. It was stamped
on somewhere else inside, again can’t remember, but definitely the crankshaft.

Cheers

Alastair Lauener Work Phone +44 131 455 2458 *
Chief Technician Fax +44 131 455 2267 *
Department of Building & Surveying Home Phone +44 1577 864242 *
Napier University, Edinburgh EH10 5DT a.lauener@central.napier.ac.uk *
1964 3.4 S-Type story at http://www.sn.no/home/nick/alas.html *

From: RWOODLIN@garfield.foods.indiana.edu
Date: 01 Apr 96 11:05:15 CDT
Subject: lesson revisited

A number of folks have asked where I took my car and had improper hoses
put on the brake resevoir. The offending operation was Just-Jags in
Indianapolis. I originally took the car in to have a leaking
transmission repaired and asked to have the plugs, belts and hoses
changed while they had the car. They called to inform me I needed to
replace the air rails and I said please do it while you have the car.
I also asked if it needed anything else. To make a long story short,
when I picked up the car and paid the $1500.+ bill they said the cam
towers were leaking and for an additional $1100. they would be happy to
fix it! This was in the same breath that they told me they were unable
to fix the leaking transmission!! They thought maybe it was a faulty
seal and I should drive the car to see if it would heal itself!!!
Oh well, I hope to build a garage this summer with a hoist and I will
fix these things myself. After all part of the enjoyment I derive from
British machinery is tinkering with it.
I just needed to have it all put back in perspective.

Robert Woodling
'84 XJ-S

From: RWOODLIN@garfield.foods.indiana.edu
Date: 01 Apr 96 11:12:54 CDT
Subject: brake hose

John,
You wrote:

I don;t know if I would be so quick to condemn the hose used. This
stuff has to contend with methanol and stuff that is more nasty that
brake fluid. That are the ratings for the hose. John Shuck…
xk120, e-type other brit stuff two and 4 wheel.

All I can say is that the fuel line did decompose and swell enough to
sludge up the lines and let in tons of air. I have not experienced any
trouble since I switched the hose and bled the brakes.

Robert Woodling
'84 XJ-S

From: Jennifer Joy jjoy@risc.sps.mot.com
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 10:11:49 -0600 (CST)
Subject: a note on the suppliers list

Hello all,

I have been exceptionally busy at work. I’ve also been experimenting
with different operating systems so I accidentally blew away the cron
job which sends out the supplier list. I just realized this last
week. I had not been reading the jag list at all for the last 4-6
months, so I never noticed I wasn’t sending the list out.

I will make the suggestions someone mentioned earlier, and I will
endeavour to keep sending out the list if folks find it useful. It
comes out on the first of each month.

Anyway, I hope work on the e-type will begin again soon.

jen (and Mark White)
the owners of a '72 2+2 e-type

   Jennifer Joy  sys/net admin Motorola/RISC  Austin,TX

jjoy@risc.sps.mot.com 512.891.8561 fax:512.891.7292 PGR:933-7333 #898561

From: LLoyd 3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@cmsa.berkeley.edu
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 96 08:04:52 PST
Subject: Re: XJ6 Series 3 - No Reverse

No reverse?? I’ve been told that the rule of thumb is; When reverse goes out,
that means the internals are so worno out the whold thing needs a major
rebuild.

LLoyd -yet another reason I’ll never own another automatic-

From: HDR64@aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 12:08:00 -0500
Subject: Re: XK120 - various

Our company is beginning a restoration project of an early XK120 Roadster.
Don’t have numbers handy but it is type without front fender side lamps. The
car is not 100% original, resprayed along the way to red…think it may have
been white or cream originally. But much is original. It has been sitting
covered in a barn since 1967.

Since we just joined the Jag newsgroup, I have missed some of the original
threads regarding bumpers, engine numbers etc. Is someone needing information
that I might be able to help with?

I have also heard that XK120s may have had “aftermarket” alloy
bumpers??Anyone heard of this…as opposed to factory ones. The reason I ask
is that I just purchased and sold a set of aluminum alloy polished bumpers.
Now…I am curious. Were they factory options , factory installed, or an
aftermarket period piece?

Regards,
Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax

From: LLoyd 3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@cmsa.berkeley.edu
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 96 09:20:45 PST
Subject: 4.2 liter trick…

For those of you with a 4.2 liter, here is something I learned over the weeke
nd which may save you a few dollars and some anger and embarrasment, frus-
tration and cursing.
It looked like my front seal was leaking, last week I put out a message for
some hints on removal/replacement. Well, Friday night I pulled the pulley/
harmonic ballancer, and the cone behind it. Then I could see that the pan has
to be removed to get at the oil seal. But, I could also see there was no
oil oround the old seal. Hard, packed greese, but no engine oil. So I let it
set overnight.
Saturday morning I saw oil drops on the floor in a DIFFERENT place than
before. It turns out the power steering pump was leaking at the pulley
seal. The oil dropped onto the crank pulley, it blew back onto the block and
ran down the front of the block making me think it was engine oil.
Sooooo, if you suspect a front seal, clean the PS pump and lines well, then
check them for fluid before pulling the crank pulley.

LLoyd -live and learn, it beats the alternative-

From: Elgsweep@aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 12:53:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Plugs swimming in oil!

In a message dated 96-04-01 02:16:24 EST, you write:

I recently acquired an '89 XJ40 and tonight for no particular reason I
decided to take a spark plug wire off. Now I’m sickened. I don’t think the
engine design calls for plug wires to cook in 4 inches of oil. What is
wrong?

Dan,

My guess is that the DPO spilled oil on top of the head when refilling. Cam
covers are much more likely to leak on the bottom. Clean it off and wait and
see if it reoccurs before you get too worried about it.

Dennis Murphy
Geneva, IL
1952 XK 120
1990 XJ-S

From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 96 10:01:37 PST
Subject: XJ40 Battery

The battery in my `91 XJ40 went dead this weekend. Can someone
tell me what kind of replacement battery I can get for this car?

Thanks. I’d appreciate a prompt response, as my car is inoperable
right now.

Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD

From: RWOODLIN@garfield.foods.indiana.edu
Date: 01 Apr 96 13:14:26 CDT
Subject: hoist ?s

I am designing a garage and I would like to install a car hoist in it.
I can buy a used in ground lift with central post and swing out arms
for $500. The price is right but I do not like the restrictiveness of
the center post. It seems to me that transmission work would be a problem.

Does anyone have any suggestions for a proper lift. I would like to
keep the expense below $3000.

Robert Woodling
'84 XJ-S

-building a better toy box

From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 1996 10:49:13 -0800
Subject: Re: brake hose

I really have to take issue with this brake hose discussion. There are different grades of fuel line,
some can be used on the brake reservoir without any problem. The type that we were supplied at the dealer
said fuel hose on it and never caused any problems with the brakes. Cheap American type fuel hose would
self-destruct. There is no excuse for this situation, but it really isn’t justified to condemn a shop for
one mistake.

RWOODLIN@garfield.foods.indiana.edu wrote:

John,
You wrote:

I don;t know if I would be so quick to condemn the hose used. This
stuff has to contend with methanol and stuff that is more nasty that
brake fluid. That are the ratings for the hose. John Shuck…
xk120, e-type other brit stuff two and 4 wheel.

All I can say is that the fuel line did decompose and swell enough to
sludge up the lines and let in tons of air. I have not experienced any
trouble since I switched the hose and bled the brakes.

Robert Woodling
'84 XJ-S

From: skurtzma@Verity.COM (Stephen Kurtzman)
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 11:06:56 -0800
Subject: XK8 orders

Good news for all you out there waiting for your chance to own an XK8. I
received a letter from my local dealer. He is now accepting orders for
delivery in October. One of the great advantages of ordering this early is
that they gaurantee that you will pay “MSRP with no dealer mark-up”. How
can you pass up such a deal!

BTW, even though this is April 1st, this posting is not a joke.

From: BSherw@aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 14:15:17 -0500
Subject: courtesy

IMHO, Michael Neal needs a vacation! (“Honey, have you seen my flame
suit?”)
Brian Sherwood, part-time jag mechanic, part-time psychiatrist

From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 1996 11:57:46 -0800
Subject: Re: Plugs swimming in oil!

Here we go again. Unless you are familiar with the design of the XJ40 and have had experience with them I
really wouldn’t recommend throwing out such useless drivel.

Elgsweep@aol.com wrote:

In a message dated 96-04-01 02:16:24 EST, you write:

I recently acquired an '89 XJ40 and tonight for no particular reason I
decided to take a spark plug wire off. Now I’m sickened. I don’t think the
engine design calls for plug wires to cook in 4 inches of oil. What is
wrong?

Dan,

My guess is that the DPO spilled oil on top of the head when refilling. Cam
covers are much more likely to leak on the bottom. Clean it off and wait and
see if it reoccurs before you get too worried about it.

Dennis Murphy
Geneva, IL
1952 XK 120
1990 XJ-S

From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 1996 11:55:30 -0800
Subject: Re: XJ40 Battery

Roger,
I highly recommend the Optima sealed battery. It costs around $150 but is well worth it. There is a
two year free replacement warranty with a six year depreciated warranty. Optima ships from San Jose, try
calling 800.292.4359 for a local dealer.

rpeng@cadev6.intel.com wrote:

The battery in my `91 XJ40 went dead this weekend. Can someone
tell me what kind of replacement battery I can get for this car?

Thanks. I’d appreciate a prompt response, as my car is inoperable
right now.

–

Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD

From: “Simon S. Johnson” johnsosi@cla.orst.edu
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 1996 12:44:55 -0800
Subject: Re: XK120 - various -Reply

Dear all–

I remember one could buy aluminum bumpers, perhaps in the 60s, when
you could not find steel. They did not have the shine of the chrome,
but were advertised as stronger. Can’t remember who sold them,
however. Sorry.

Cheers,

Simon

I have also heard that XK120s may have had “aftermarket” alloy
bumpers??Anyone heard of this…as opposed to factory ones. The
reason I ask is that I just purchased and sold a set of aluminum
alloy polished bumpers.
Now…I am curious. Were they factory options , factory installed, or
an aftermarket period piece?

Regards,
Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax

From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 12:40:19 -0800
Subject: RE: courtesy

NOT!, people need to pay a little more attention to what’s going on. I =
told the XJ40 owner exactly what was wrong then someone else told him =
exactly the same thing and then this off the wall response about a =
previous owner appeared. =20

From: BSherw@aol.com
Sent: Monday, April 01, 1996 11:15 AM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: courtesy

IMHO, Michael Neal needs a vacation! (“Honey, have you seen my flame
suit?”)
Brian Sherwood, part-time jag mechanic, part-time psychiatrist

From: “Jim Cantrell” JIMC@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 14:52:30 MDT
Subject: Almost Jaguar Content: Gumball rally

I rented the movie Gumball Rally this weekend since I hadn’t seen it
in over 15 years. I forgot what a great movie this was - made by
real gearheads. The scene with the cars screaming out of NYC is
absolutely wonderful. The sound of the Cobra and the screeming
Ferrari was almost too much for the senses. Almost feel like you
were there.

But those of you who have seen the movie know about the series II
E-type that refused to start. As I watched the movie this time, I
didn’t know whether to laugh or cry as I watched these guys trying to
start the car and one of them says “handsome design” and the other
says “I wish that it would run”. Despite my allegiance to the
marque, this part of the movie convinced me that it was written and
directed by somebody who really knew his cars. And of course as I
went out to work on my XJ6C this weekend, it wouldn’t start since the
floats in the Strombergs were stuck and draining gas on the floor.

So, in short, if you haven’t seen the movie in a while, go do it !
Its real refreshing after 15 years !

Jim Cantrell

76 XJ12C
76 XJ6C
66 Alpine 2.8L

From: Jim Goring jgoring@FGS.com
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 1996 14:14:25 +0000
Subject: Re: Almost Jaguar Content: Gumball rally

Jim Cantrell wrote:

I rented the movie Gumball Rally this weekend since I hadn’t seen it
in over 15 years. I forgot what a great movie this was - made by
real gearheads. The scene with the cars screaming out of NYC is
absolutely wonderful. The sound of the Cobra and the screeming
Ferrari was almost too much for the senses. Almost feel like you
were there.

and while you’re at it… get ‘The Italian Job’. One of the bes motor
head opening sequences on film, as anti-hero number one screams through
the alps in technicolor and stereo riffling through the gears in his
Ferrari coupe… There’s an E-type in there too somewhere, that meets an
ignoble end in the jaws of an earthmover…

back to work

From: “Alan Johnston” alan_johnston@ed22qm.msfc.nasa.gov
Date: 1 Apr 1996 16:43:26 -0600
Subject: FWD>Almost Jaguar Content-

Mail*Link� SMTP FWD>Almost Jaguar Content: Gumball rally

Jim wrote,

But those of you who have seen the movie know about the series II
E-type that refused to start.
snip
So, in short, if you haven’t seen the movie in a while, go do it !
Its real refreshing after 15 years !

Jim Cantrell

Speaking of jags in movies, I just happened to catch two different movies this
weekend that had jags. The first was an old “Herby the Love Bug” movie. It was
neat seeing all those classics racing around, including at least one E-type. The
other movie was the recently released Bruce WIllis movie “12 Monkeys”. In that
movie they steal a very poorly cared for SII or SIII XJ6. Pretty cool!

Alan
Alan_Johnston@ed22qm.msfc.nasa.gov

From: <@cmsa.berkeley.edu:3030P@VM1.CC.NPS.NAVY.MIL@sn.no@sn.no@sn.no>
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 01:01:22 +0200
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From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
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RWoodling makes a point, but misses the point, so to speak.

----------------------------Original message----------------------------
<self-destruct. There is no excuse for this situation, but it really isn’t
<justified to condemn a shop for
<one mistake.

Absolutely correct. But we do need to take note and educate ourselves. If
there is a reoccuring problem with the shop and they do not respond to
corrective suggestions/actions, that is, as they say, data.
I do not consider that one incident, but two. first, of course the brake
line; and secondly was the customer service when it was mentioned.
I would try the shop again for some small item and see. They may have had
a bad day.

LLoyd

From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 09:19:19 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: Cooling experiment (SII XJ12)

Hi Jan,

So, I stored the backing plate from the Coupe (that being the car I intend to
keep) in my “original parts” bin and moved the number plate down from the
bumper bar location to below the bottom lip of the chin grille, where it’s now
pop-riveted on a pair of heavy stainless steel brackets at a typical air-dam
angle. Ground clearance is just right. That left the horns looking pretty
untidy, so I bolted them to the back of the number plate, where they just fit
the available space. My C has no fog lights, so I was spared the trouble of
removing those.

Sounds interesting. I didn’t get the chance to do any continuous high speed
temperature tests this summer, but your experiment sounds reasonable. The
number plate backing plate on my Daimler is even bigger than the number plate
itself.

Something else I plan to do soon is to replace the front springs with a lower
set. This should lower the air flow under the car and draw more air through
the radiator and engine bay. A front air dam would have a similar result.

Robert ‘ground clearance - that’s for other cars’ Dingli

Robert Dingli   r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au

Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **

From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@compuserve.com
Date: 01 Apr 96 18:59:30 EST
Subject: Re: HR or SR tires to replace VR series?

In the previous notes on tyre rating, nobody has mentioned the load factor. Not
only does V rating (up to 240 km/hour) mean high speed rating, but usually also
a high load rating.

The pirelli P5 has a load rating of “97” , which many H and S rated tyres dont
have.
The spec for the German XJ12 S3 is Pirellis P5 Cinturato 215/70 or Dunlop Sport
D7. Wintertyres only Pirelli Winter 190, with load rating 95 (T- speed rating)in
215/65.

Anything else requires formal approval (not easy to get if Jaguar has not
approved).

Regards Jeffrey Gram

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #24

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Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 15:19:54 +0200
Message-Id: 199604021319.PAA13390@ekeberg.sn.no
From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 2 April 1996 Volume 02 : Number 025

From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 96 16:24:00 PST
Subject: Oil pressure in XJ6

James A. Isbell wrote:

Just then I noticed a flicker in the oil pressure needle and watched
in horror as it droped through 40, settling on 25lbs while at 70MPH!!!
… The main symptom is that it was sudden
and that the pressure seems to varry some while cruising at a constant
speed.

Is it too much to hope that it’s just the sending unit???

I had a similar case of flickering oil pressure, which (thankfully)
turned out to be the oil pressure sender (underneath the intake manifold
and a little hard to reach but not bad). A new sender cleared it up and
if I can believe the reading I’ve got 45PSI idling, 60PSI cruising and 80PSI
when I see how fast the car will go. I recall that I felt good about the
$60 for the new unit.

David

'84 XJ6 VDP with UK-spec headlamps

From: “J.W. Beckmeyer” 73131.3076@compuserve.com
Date: 01 Apr 96 19:38:25 EST
Subject: RE:hoist ?s

AS always, check Hemmings. There are always some ads in there for companies
selling those two pillar jobs. One that comes to mind is Eagle and the prices
run ~$3k. That’s delivered…but not installed.

I’ve heard that they are a bitch to install and set up but have no first hand
knowledge of this. Sure would be nice to have, however.

Best regards,
Jim Beckmeyer Union CIty, MI USA
e-mail: 73131.3076@compuserve.com
90 Jaguar XJ-40-Sovereign
60 Jaguar MK II

From: Craig Tiano ctiano@voicenet.com
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 19:39:07 -0500
Subject: Re: lesson revisited

At 11:05 AM 4/1/96 CDT, you wrote:

A number of folks have asked where I took my car and had improper hoses
put on the brake resevoir. The offending operation was Just-Jags in
Indianapolis. I originally took the car in to have a leaking
transmission repaired and asked to have the plugs, belts and hoses
changed while they had the car. They called to inform me I needed to
replace the air rails and I said please do it while you have the car.
I also asked if it needed anything else. To make a long story short,
when I picked up the car and paid the $1500.+ bill…

A good friend of mine took his Mercedes 300SEL 6.3 in to have the “light
whine” on his car diagnosed. Sure enough-needs a rebuild of the rear end and
no junkyard rears available. After he told them to fix it with an estimate
of $2500, they call back-why don’t we replace the leaking exhaust system?
ok. $1200. They call again-The rubber mounts are bad-gotta be replaced $400.
ok. The bearings turned out to be bad. $600. etc… Over the 6 weeks they
had the car, they called every few days with something that could be
upgraded or needed attention. The final bill? $6600. AND he didn’t go for
everything they suggested either. As he puts it-“I’m going to have to keep
the car until I die…”

Craig
Craig Tiano

Photography, Antique Cars (60’s Lincolns, 30’s Packards,
70 and 79 Daimler DS420s), American Eskimo Dogs,
HTML/CGI/Datacomm guru

---- Mail ---- ctiano@voicenet.com
– Homepage – http://www.voicenet.com/~ctiano/index.html
==========================================================

From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 96 19:53:52 EST
Subject: FWD>Almost Jaguar Content-

From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
*** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FC42
*** INTERNET ADDRESS - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM *****************
Subject: FWD>Almost Jaguar Content-

Speaking of classic movies with great cars, a while back I watched
an old 50’s movie I think called ‘on the beach’ or something like
that…it is about a nuclear holocaust, and the only americans to
survive were some guys in a submarine, lead by Gregory Peck I think.
They go to Australia which has been left fairly unscathed, and live
out their lives…and there is a great scene where the Australian
Grand Prix is being run at Philip Island. There are ‘D’ types racing
around, with Austin Healy’s, Merc 300sl’s and all the great classics
of the era…it’s just great seeing the brand new D types flying around
the track…

REGARDS…Shane
SYDVM1(SHANEM) SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM
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Date: 1 Apr 1996 16:43:26 -0600
From: “Alan Johnston” alan_johnston@ed22qm.msfc.nasa.gov
Subject: FWD>Almost Jaguar Content-
To: “jag-lovers news group” jag-lovers@sn.no
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Mail*Link( SMTP FWD>Almost Jaguar Content: Gumball rally

Jim wrote,

But those of you who have seen the movie know about the series II
E-type that refused to start.
snip
So, in short, if you haven’t seen the movie in a while, go do it !
Its real refreshing after 15 years !

Jim Cantrell

Speaking of jags in movies, I just happened to catch two different movies this
weekend that had jags. The first was an old “Herby the Love Bug” movie. It was
neat seeing all those classics racing around, including at least one E-type.
The
other movie was the recently released Bruce WIllis movie “12 Monkeys”. In that
movie they steal a very poorly cared for SII or SIII XJ6. Pretty cool!

Alan
Alan_Johnston@ed22qm.msfc.nasa.gov

From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 20:32:05 -0500
Subject: Re: hoist ?s

At 01:14 PM 4/1/96 CDT, RWOODLIN@garfield.foods.indiana.edu wrote:

I am designing a garage and I would like to install a car hoist in it.
I can buy a used in ground lift with central post and swing out arms
for $500. The price is right but I do not like the restrictiveness of
the center post. It seems to me that transmission work would be a problem.

Does anyone have any suggestions for a proper lift. I would like to
keep the expense below $3000.

Robert Woodling
'84 XJ-S
-building a better toy box

I would go for the center arm with swing out arms. There is always a way to
raise and block the car so that an occasional trans job can be worked out.

The most flexible lift, IMHO, is a two post (on the sides) with swing arms.
Then the entire center of the car is free. But if I had a choice of a $500
lift that occasionally annoyed me or a $2500 ‘perfect’ lift – and this is
for home use – well, you get the idea. Put the two grand you save into
other tools and equipment!

Regards,

John

From: bill wmrunner@westol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 19:41:06 -0500
Subject: RE: XK120 - various -Reply

Simon says

I remember one could buy aluminum bumpers, perhaps in the 60s, when
you could not find steel. They did not have the shine of the chrome,
but were advertised as stronger. Can’t remember who sold them,
however. Sorry.<<

Hal said

I have also heard that XK120s may have had “aftermarket” alloy
bumpers??Anyone heard of this…as opposed to factory ones. The
reason I ask is that I just purchased and sold a set of aluminum
alloy polished bumpers.
Now…I am curious. Were they factory options , factory installed, or
an aftermarket period piece?<<

I got mine from J. C. Whitney…sometime around 1978. They’d never be mistaken for steel bumpers.
but they’re better than going without.

They were available “as polished” and chrome plated.

Regards,

Bill Ruof

From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 21:01:52 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ-S ECU Open/Closed Loop

At 11:00 AM 4/1/96 +1000, robert dingli wrote:

snip
how does that tell you that
the ECU is in closed loop?

The O2 sensor generates a voltage between 0 and 1 volt. Half way inbetween
corresponds to stoich but the actual output as a function of air fuel ratio
(AFR) is very non-linear and switches abruptly from low to high levels.
The closed loop system adds a perturbation to the base fuel rate so that the
O2 sensor voltage switches from low (0.1-0.3V) to high (0.7-0.9) levels at
a frequency of about 2Hz. This minimises the temperature dependence of the
sensor and allows the ECU to handle the information in a digital manner.

To check that the ECU is in closed loop mode, connect a high input impedence
volt meter (preferrably not digital as you want to look at how the value
changes) to the signal wire while it is still connected to the ECU. Basic O2
gauges can be bought from speed shops or fabricated using a few basic
electronic parts. There is a web page somewhere (search for EGO sensor or
something similar) which details how to make one.

Robert: Thank you as always for the considered reply. I think I understand
your explanation, but am confused as to how this proves that the ECU is in
closed loop. All it seems to indicate is that the O2 sensors are behaving
as if the engine has gone into closed loop.

Let me ask this another way, as I’m not trying to split hairs. I would
imagine that the ECU has some logic built in to it that looks at all the
sensors, and does something like: “coolant temp high enough, vacuum within
limits, rpm within limits: OK, flip a bit”. Now closed loop operation
begins: open loop mappings are ignored, O2 voltages are monitored, injector
pulses are adjusted to maintain A/F ratios, etc.

What I want to know is if there is a way to know when that bit flips. Does
one of the connector pins on the ECU go low or high? Maybe measuring the O2
sensors is traditionally the way that it is done, but it sounds too
‘downstream’. For example, lets say that you had really good open loop
mappings and that conditions were just so. The O2 sensor readings could be
ok (yes, I understand that their non-linearity makes this sound like
balancing a cone on its point) but you’ll never know if you are in closed
loop. And what if you have a bad O2 sensor? Voltages might be ‘bad’ but
the ECU might be attempting closed loop. (And would it then oscillate
between open and again attempting closed loop?)

Why do I care? Because I am interested in monitoring when my XJ-S is in
open or closed loop under different driving scenarios, and monitoring the
flipping bit might be the most informative way to do this. And this, in
turn, is fed by an emerging opinion that some of the idiosyncracies of EFI
operation in these cars is not caused by external components like pressure
regulators and the like but by the ECU itself.

How do non-Jag ECUs handle these issues?

Regards,

John

From: William Kroppe kroppe@mich.com
Date: Mon, 01 Apr 1996 21:14:31 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ-S ECU Open/Closed Loop

Can you or Robert Dingli or Michael Neal confirm whether fuel
flow is shut off under trailing throttle?

Sorry, I don’t know enough about this particular system to answer.

Well, if you think about it, if the fuel flow was cut off, the
engine would stall, right? If the engine stalled, when you put
your foot back on the gas pedal, it wouldn’t start, not unless you
turned the ignition switch, which you definitely don’t do every
time you lift your foot off the gas pedal.

When you lift your foot off the gas, the throttle plate closes,
which, to the engine, means idle. Although being engaged to a
transmission prevents the engine from reaching idle speed rpm,
the engine does reach idle vacuum levels.

Try this: At speed (60mph or so) lift off the gas and put the
shifter in neutral (or push in the clutch pedal for manuals) and
wait a moment. The tachometer should read the number of rpm you
normally see at idle. So, even though the car is hurtling down
the road at 60mph, the engine thinks you are sitting at a stop
light. That is, until you re-engage the clutch or put the gear
shift back into drive.

The fuel flow is reduced, though. Fuel injector pulse width
is a function of throttle angle and engine rpm (and a host of
other temperatures and pressures). Injector pulse width is the
time duration the fuel injector is open (usually measured in
milliseconds). The injector is merely an opened-closed valve,
which is open for the duration known as “injector pulse width”.

B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6

From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 21:22:23 -0500
Subject: XJ-S Fan Decision

I’d like some opinions on cooling fan options for my '82 XJ-S.

At the beginning of the winter season, I disconnected the engine driven fan:
the bearings were starting to get noisy, and certainly not needed in winter.

Now that spring is here, its time to consider repair options. I think I
have three:

Replace noisy bearings and keep engine driven fan.
Replace engine fan with an electric.
Replace engine fan and stock electric fan with twin pushers mounted
ahead of the condensor.

Number one is most straightforward but downside is that this system will
continue to fail. Number two is pretty simple; I can get a nice 16"
electric that moves 2300 cfm, and in conjunction with the 9" stock electric
should give plenty of airflow. Number three is the most work (front end
braces will need work) but seems the most elegant: it would eliminate a lot
of clutter at the front of the engine. The twin 12" fans I’ve been
eyeballing move only 2100 cfm combined - quite a bit less than #2 and
probably #1.

Now I don’t feel any need to keep things stock. But I do want a system that
will let this black car idle at rest with the A/C on on a sunny 100 degree F
summer day with 90% humidity without overheating (the car is able to do this
with the stock fans). I am concerned that the twins might not have enough flow.

Comments? Ideas?

Regards,

John

From: REMANKING@aol.com
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 21:31:24 -0500
Subject: Re: XK120 - various

My comments on the issues John raised:
Interior screws, for anyone doing an XK interior Bassett’s sells a screw kit
for $15 that includes all the correct size stainless screws (#4), the
washers, screws for the sidecurtain plates and even the drill bits. One of
the best “values” (if their is such a thing in regards to an XK) in XK
restoration I have come across
Dick is correct that the hexed portion of the NA8 was originally “black
oxide” in finish, there are also NA8 with the silver cad plating which are
later replacements.
Alloy bumpers; there are a number of suppliers that sell cast aluminum
bumpers for XK120’s (Moss Motors is one). These bumpers are much easier to
make and are therefore much less expensive that a stamped and formed steel
version. Most of the restorers seems to frown on the aluminum ones as not
correct for an XK. They are about 25% of the price of the steel ones though.
On a separate note has anyone ever been able to put the amount of rear end
lube in a XK differential that the manual calls for?? I have tried and there
is no way that rear end can hold 2 liters of fluid before it spills out the
filler hole. It has to be a manual misprint.

From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 21:24:52 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Plugs swimming in oil!

I recently acquired an '89 XJ40 and tonight for no particular reason I
decided to take a spark plug wire off. Now I’m sickened. I don’t think the
engine design calls for plug wires to cook in 4 inches of oil. What is
wrong?

Dan,

My guess is that the DPO spilled oil on top of the head when refilling. Cam
covers are much more likely to leak on the bottom. Clean it off and wait and
see if it reoccurs before you get too worried about it.

This is not a XK engine. It’s an AJ6, a totally different beast. It is
impossible to inadvertantly spill oil into the plug wells. someone would have
to purposely remove each plug wire and pour some oil down the holes. The
oil fill is a pipe well away from the cam cover.

I have to fully agree with Michael on this. Oil in th plug wells of an AJ6 is
caused by a leaking cam cover gasket. And these gaskets do not suddenly sprout
“gushers”; the AJ6 is a very stout leak-free engine. This much oil in the
wells (4 inches??? having trouble believing that much possible) indicates that
it has been leaking for a LONG time. Therefore, it follows that the car has
not been looked at by someone that knows this breed in quite a while, or if it
has, the advised service needds were ignored.

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

From: jamesc@oasis.novia.net (jc)
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 22:21:05 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: XK120

In a message dated 96-03-30 18:38:37 EST, you write:

I ask that
others add Jim’s address to any messages and copy him in. Interesting
sounding
120 racer to say the least!

James,

I have added you to my list. Ref. Johns note above, tell me about your 120. I
am currently finishing up a conversion of a 120 roadster for vintage racing.
It should be running in the next week or two (with a little bit of luck).
Maybe we could share some info?

Dennis Murphy
Geneva, IL
1952 XK 120
1990 XJ-S

Dennis
I had a great time building the 120 racer and learned some things.Lou
Fidanza from GTJ spent a great deal of time as a patient teacher.

SUSPENSION
With mods you can eliminate the oversteer.Swap torsion bars to a larger size.
The sway bar used for the racing E type can be used if you build a spacer
and connections to clear the lower A arm. There is no way to build in a
negative camber without lowering the upper mounting point for the A arm or
shortening the upper A arm length. I chose the former. I stuck with the
rubber bushing but it is possible to go with delrin.The tie rods have to be
changed to adjust for bump steer.

ENGINE
This is where I shouldn’t have followed the rules. After being passed by
everybody in equal cars I asked why. They all used 3.8 motors with straight

port heads. I can hold my head high knowing that mine is totally legal but slow.
The valves are larger. Cams a bit hotter 9;1 compression ( I would go to 10:1
next time) It is necessary to put in a higher output oil pump which is
available. I modified GTJ oil baffles which work well and there are no
drops
in pressure. Remote oil filter and cooler. Balance everything. Big crank damper.
Alloy fly wheel is a must. It changes the engine more that anything. Fast accel,
fast decell. Very much like an Italian race engine.Comp clutch but not a
triple disk.

TRANSMISSION
I stuck with the Moss box. I have gotten good at double clutching but as I
am passed I swear I heard a fifth gear in some cars. Again I am proud to be
period.
I understand the 5 speed Borg Warner that goes in the Mustang is almost a
straight swap with a few mods to the bell housing & shortened driveshaft.

BRAKES
I am lucky in this respect. My car is a special bodied 120 and was updated
to XK150 brakes. I highly recommend carbon Kevlar pads. Braided hoses.Dual
masters

SAFETY
High quality roll bar and side hit tubes. Halon system. Five or six point
harness. Master cut off switch. Fuel cell

REAR END
Limited slip a must. Salsbury 4HA will accept a Dana power lock. The axles
can be welded to build in negative camber. My car has radius arms to
prevent wind up

Lots of other details on request. Again Lou Fidanza spent many nights on
the phone coaching me through this and I would be glad to share info.

Jim Canedy (SS100, MK V DHC, 120 racer, MK VII, 150S roadster Ex2)

From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 14:34:23 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S ECU Open/Closed Loop

John Napoli asks,

Robert: Thank you as always for the considered reply. I think I understand
your explanation, but am confused as to how this proves that the ECU is in
closed loop. All it seems to indicate is that the O2 sensors are behaving
as if the engine has gone into closed loop.

Let me ask this another way, as I’m not trying to split hairs. I would
imagine that the ECU has some logic built in to it that looks at all the
sensors, and does something like: “coolant temp high enough, vacuum within
limits, rpm within limits: OK, flip a bit”. Now closed loop operation
begins: open loop mappings are ignored, O2 voltages are monitored, injector
pulses are adjusted to maintain A/F ratios, etc.

Correct. Depening on the system, the open loop mappings may be used as a
basis for closed loop control - ie. the closed loop section provides a trim
to values set at the factory. The step beyond this is to adjust the base
fuel maps given the latest information.

What I want to know is if there is a way to know when that bit flips. Does
one of the connector pins on the ECU go low or high? Maybe measuring the O2
sensors is traditionally the way that it is done, but it sounds too
‘downstream’. For example, lets say that you had really good open loop
mappings and that conditions were just so. The O2 sensor readings could be
ok (yes, I understand that their non-linearity makes this sound like
balancing a cone on its point) but you’ll never know if you are in closed
loop. And what if you have a bad O2 sensor? Voltages might be ‘bad’ but
the ECU might be attempting closed loop. (And would it then oscillate
between open and again attempting closed loop?)

It is pretty obvious when the system goes into closed loop control. While
the open loop controller may be tuned to near lambda = 1 (relative air fuel
ratio where 1 equals stoichiometric mixture) the voltage output will ‘flicker’
around 0.5V or else sit at a low or high output. When under closed loop
control, the perturbation due to the closed loop system can be clearly seen
as a low frequency oscillation in the output.

If the sensor is faulty then the ECU should be able to detect this and will
remain open loop. The output will either ‘stick’ low or high.
In open or closed loop, you should be able to see a momentary lean-rich
condition at the output when blipping the throttle.

Why do I care? Because I am interested in monitoring when my XJ-S is in
open or closed loop under different driving scenarios, and monitoring the
flipping bit might be the most informative way to do this. And this, in
turn, is fed by an emerging opinion that some of the idiosyncracies of EFI
operation in these cars is not caused by external components like pressure
regulators and the like but by the ECU itself.

If you are interested in further information and have www access, try doing
a search for ‘Oxygen Sensor’ and you should find a page dedicated to the
workings of this type of sensor and some of the products available to allow you
to view their output.

How do non-Jag ECUs handle these issues?

I don’t know anything particular to the Jag ECU, but I woudl guess that they
all operate similarily.

regards,
Robert

Robert Dingli   r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au

Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **

From: “David Brown” david@barney.neu.sgi.com
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 07:46:59 -0600
Subject: Odd engine sound

Hello All,

I have a 75K mile '93 Daimler (Van den Plas) 4.0L, upon moderate (not foot to
the floor acceleration) I get a dum-dum-dum-dum sound from the engine, the kind
of sound you would expect from a 454 Chevy or something (without the power to
match). At lower acceleration levels the engine is quite sereen and this noise
is quite out of character for such a “lady”.

I am engineeringly inept and would like some pointers before investigating
further.

Does anyone have a shortlist of possible causes ?

Many thanks.

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 11:30:26 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: XJ6

Hello,

we have a nice XJS and are thinking of getting a “cheap” XJ6 for all day use.
We have seen an example over the weekend (1976 with about 60.000km, but in
quite a sad state). We got the common “I bought the car from a 70 years old
driver, who had problems driving therefor there a few scratches.” I’m not
sure about the mileage, the egine bay does not look very proper. There
is obviously some welding and paintwork required.

The guy askes FF 20000 (about $ 4000). Seems a little high to me, but
the french Jaguar market is not very big. What should I watch for on this
type of car.

If anyone in the UK has a car for sale in this price range, even rhd, please
drop me a mail.

Kind regards

- Matthias

From: wzehring@cmb.biosci.wayne.edu (Will Zehring)
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 08:16:18 -0500
Subject: Gumball, etc.

Fellow jag-o-philes:

I’ll second the motion; “Gumball Rally” is a genuine motor-head’s film. I
saw it for the first time a few weekends ago when friends got bored watching
the F1 race. The film is much better! And, yes, it is poignant for us Jag
owners. My ‘friends’ all waited for that scene and my reaction. I sank a
bit deeper into my chair.

Regarding “The Italian Job”… if memory serves, the car destroyed in the
early scene is a Lambo Miura, not a Ferrari. The E-types don’t get
destroyed until some several scenes later.

Lastly, maybe it was an April Fool’s posting regarding that oil in the
sparkplug holes?

Will “how much does an XK8 cost, anyway?” Zehring

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #25

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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 2 April 1996 Volume 02 : Number 026

From: “J.W. Beckmeyer” 73131.3076@compuserve.com
Date: 02 Apr 96 08:48:19 EST
Subject: MK II Restoration thoughts

Hi all!

It is odd the things one thinks about while doing a job for which one doesn’t
have the proper tool. Take rubber bushings for example.

Here I am in the garage with this plastic bag full of these innocent enough
looking rubber thingies that supposedly fit the appropriate parts of the front
suspension of the MK II. This can’t be that hard, I’m thinking.

Driving out the spent bushings was easy. After carefully and meticulously
cleaning out the bore where the new bushing is to go, I check the manual and it
simply says, “press in new bushings.” What could be easier? After comparing
the bushing with the hole into which it is to be placed, I can now see why a
solution of soapy water is called for to act as a lubricant to aid the bushing
in its placement…mixed 12:1 according to one book, 10:1 in the other. I mixed
mine a bit less precisely.

After getting the first bushing in place, I can see the flaw in my prototype
bushing placement tool. The bushing is not seated completely…hasn’t gone in
far enough and I clearly need a different tool to get the placement exactly
right. I’m on the right track (I think), just haven’t thought it through
completely. Hummm…back to the drawing board.

As this juncture, I am reminded of my Grandfather Link, who advised be to become
an engineer like him. He always said that the things I would learn in
engineering school would pay off later in life. This car restoration business
is what he must have been talking about. But I opted for a career in
broadcasting and twenty years in that business was paying off handsomely too
as it only took three seconds to talk myself into going back into the house for
lunch, a nap and then a cup of coffee.

Two hours later I was back in the garage looking for a solution: a tool that
would allow me to press the bushing in without stopping it before it was
centered and in place. I settled on a very large socket (1 5/16…what else
) on the backside, combined with a large C clamp to press the bushing in. I
also tried a three jaw puller with the jaws turned around, effectively making it
a three jaw pusher. Ultimately, this worked even better than the C clamp as the
threads were fine and made the job of pushing the bushing in easier. But this
also required more parts…a piece on top to push on the bushing, the socket,
and a piece under that upon which the jaws of the pusher nee Puller were to
hook.

I still haven’t decided if I like the C clamp or the pusher better. The C clamp
setup is simpler…less parts to keep in place. The pusher however has the
advantage of being easier to use once everything is set up and a way has been
found to keep everything from moving around as the pushing process commences.
I, at least, have the consolation of knowing that I have ample opportunity to
come to a conclusion. With two bushings down, I have six to go.

I recall all of the cliches that go with this kind of job: Craftsmanship is its
own reward; it is the process, not the end; attention to detail; right tool
for the job, etc. They’re all true, IMHO. Especially the “right tool for the
job” thing.

I have a third incarnation for “Jim’s Bushing Tool” that I want to try out
today. Simpler, less parts, advantage of the fine threads plus the advantage of
not having a bunch of parts slipping and moving around. If you’ve done this
job before, or have an IQ over 6, you probably know what I have in mind, most
likely.

Oh, BTW, for a time yesterday, I thought about sitting down and dashing off a
quick note to the Jag lovers list to ask for ideas on an easy way to do this
bushing business. I also considered checking out the archives. But I didn’t
because that would have ruined the game I was playing. I have time on my
side…there is no particular rush to get the car done. And besides, when it is
done, then what will I do?

In closing, I just want to say to all those who have done the restoration trip,
I respect you! I feel your pain.

Back to the garage…

Best regards,
Jim Beckmeyer Union CIty, MI USA
(where, on this second day of April, it is snowing and 29 degrees)

e-mail: 73131.3076@compuserve.com
90 Jaguar XJ-40-Sovereign
60 Jaguar MK II

From: “Himes,John W.” jwh@dw.att.com
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 96 08:05:00 PST
Subject: MSRP a good deal?

I wonder about Manufactures Suggested Retail Price being a good deal.
Haven’t you noticed on just about everything that has a MSRP that the
asking price is less? An example would be a car radio with a TV built in (
yes it was a small screen, and no I no longer have the radio, someone
decided they needed it more the I did one night ) I purchased several years
ago. The MSRP was $999. I paid $216 and that included shipping. Do you
really want to order a NEW, never before seen, driven car?

 Myself, I do like the pictures of the XK8. The back end looks a little

big to me and the front end looks sort of like the cat has 2 buck teeth with
braces. I am of the wait and see the real thing attitude before I make up
my mind.

John Himes
88 XJ-S 92K miles

“It’s not the kill, it’s the thrill of the chase” Deep Purple

From: skurtzma@Verity.COM (Stephen Kurtzman)
Date: Mon, 1 Apr 1996 11:06:56 -0800
Subject: XK8 orders

Good news for all you out there waiting for your chance to own an XK8. I
received a letter from my local dealer. He is now accepting orders for
delivery in October. One of the great advantages of ordering this early is
that they gaurantee that you will pay “MSRP with no dealer mark-up”. How
can you pass up such a deal!

BTW, even though this is April 1st, this posting is not a joke.

From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 09:25:11 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Cooling experiment (SII XJ12)

On Tue, 2 Apr 1996, robert dingli wrote:

Something else I plan to do soon is to replace the front springs with a lower
set. This should lower the air flow under the car and draw more air through
the radiator and engine bay. A front air dam would have a similar result.

You actually HAVE to do this? These things sag so badly by
themselves that most of us have to replace the blankety-blank things
every few years just to keep the car level. I wish I had known a couple
of years ago. I would have given you a set that you would LOVE!!!

Larry Lee

From: BD Baikie bruce@online.dct.com
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 1996 10:14:21 -0600
Subject: MK II Repaint

Dear fellow MK II Lovers,

Well my 67 MKII is in the paint shop for complete stripped down and new paint.
I will take a few photos and post them to a web page, the before, during and
after.

I do need the complete rubber kit for this. Any input on that to look out for
or the best place to order? I have an idea but would like to get the collective
input. The inside leather replace job will be in May.

Also any ideas on where to get a stainless steel ehaust systems for the 67
MK II 2.4?

Thanks for any input! PS - Its snowing in Green Bay, WI today

Bruce Baikie
67 MKII 2.4

From: lwalden@ebmud.com (Lee Walden)
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 07:31:38 -0800
Subject: Re: FWD>Almost Jaguar Content-

At 16:43 1996/04/01 -0600, Alan Johnston wrote:

Mail*Link=A8 SMTP FWD>Almost Jaguar Content: Gumball rally

Jim wrote,

About the Gumball Rally the e-Type that wouldn’t start.

Alan Wrote:

Speaking of jags in movies, I just happened to catch two different movies=
this
weekend that had jags. The first was an old “Herby the Love Bug” movie. It=
was
neat seeing all those classics racing around, including at least one
E-type. >The other movie was the recently released Bruce WIllis movie “12
Monkeys”. In >that movie they steal a very poorly cared for SII or SIII XJ6.
Pretty cool!
=20
Three of my favorite movies with Jags in them… Harold & Maude, filmed in
Hillsborough near where I went to school. Harold converted an E-type into a
hearse. It looks like a Volvo P-1800 “wagon”.=20

The second is when Richar Pryor steals an E-type so he and Gene Wilder can
catch up to the “Silver Streak”. Gene asks Richard “Why the Jag?”. See the
movie for Richard’s answer.=20

The Third is Vanishing Point. There’s a race between a Challenger and an
E-type. The Jag loses. Lee

From: “L. W. (Bill) Clark” lwc@fforsm.com
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 08:16:00 -0800
Subject: Jagrolet…

Ben…

A friend of mine in San Diego has one he’d probably like to sell… it’s CA
smog legal too.

Let me know on the side if you wish to pursue.

L. W. (Bill) Clark
1965 MkII rolling…
1973 E-type roadster ‘Smokey joe’

From: LLoyd 3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@cmsa.berkeley.edu
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 96 08:21:51 PST
Subject: Re: XK120 - various

Two liters or fluid for the rear end sounds like waaaaaay too much. I
also suspect a misprint.

LLoyd -then again, if it leaks out reeeeeeal fast…-

From: Gavin Murphy gmurphy@telalink.net
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 10:32:09 -0600
Subject: RE: Oil pressure in XJ6

My gauge went a little haywire too.
It went off the scale at the high end and then dropped off the scale at =
the low end. I assumed that I needed the gauge repaired now I am not so =
sure.
Is there a way to differentiate between a faulty gauge and a faulty =
sending unit?

Gavin
'83 XJ6 VDP

From: David J Shield[SMTP:David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com]
Sent: Monday, April 01, 1996 6:24 PM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Oil pressure in XJ6

James A. Isbell wrote:

Just then I noticed a flicker in the oil pressure needle and watched
in horror as it droped through 40, settling on 25lbs while at 70MPH!!!
… The main symptom is that it was sudden=20
and that the pressure seems to varry some while cruising at a constant =

speed.

Is it too much to hope that it’s just the sending unit???

I had a similar case of flickering oil pressure, which (thankfully)=20
turned out to be the oil pressure sender (underneath the intake manifold =

and a little hard to reach but not bad). A new sender cleared it up and =

if I can believe the reading I’ve got 45PSI idling, 60PSI cruising and =
80PSI=20
when I see how fast the car will go. I recall that I felt good about =
the=20
$60 for the new unit.

David

'84 XJ6 VDP with UK-spec headlamps

From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 96 10:00:13 PST
Subject: Re: XJ40 battery

Thanks to all those who responded to my inquiry reqarding the XJ40
battery. I took the dead battery out of my `91 XJ40 last night, and
took measurements of the dimensions; they are approximately:

9 1/4 " long
6 3/4 " wide
7 1/4 " tall

The old unit turned out to be a Sears Die Hard (43247)! For those
who really want to save a few bucks, this battery will do; however,
I will shop around for a better brand. Optima is seems to be the
ultimate choice, but they’re expensive, and according to my measurements
won’t fit exactly. Interstate also seems to be a popular choice.

Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 13:17:18 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S ECU Open/Closed Loop

Your statements do not rule out the possibility the Jag ECU shuts off the
fuel under trailing throttle.

If throttle plates are closed and engine speed is above some threshold,
why flow any fuel at all? The engine won’t stall. As the rpm
drops past the threshold value (maybe 1000 to 1200 rpm), resume firing the
injectors as if the car was idling in plenty of time. The engine speed
should never drop below idle, and you’ve saved some fuel.

The test you describe is inconclusive for either mode of operation, since
by shifting into neutral you have allowed the engine to drop below any
threshold rpm.

If the Jag ECU shuts off the fuel in this way, and Kirby’s ECU is not
reacting properly, his stalling under trailing throttle transients might
be explained. Or, maybe his ECU is ok, but his engine decelerates
quicker due to the manual flywheel and clutch assembly having less
inertia than the stock torque converter filled will fluid. His ECU can’t
react in time, and the engine stalls. A simple way to test this, but
maybe logistically difficult to perform, would be for hin to swap in an ECU
from a manual V12, assuming his clutch setup is not very much lighter
than stock Jag manual components.

Does anyone out there have detailed schematics/tech descriptions for this
ECU?

Regards,

John

On Mon, 1 Apr 1996, William Kroppe wrote:

Can you or Robert Dingli or Michael Neal confirm whether fuel
flow is shut off under trailing throttle?

Sorry, I don’t know enough about this particular system to answer.

Well, if you think about it, if the fuel flow was cut off, the
engine would stall, right? If the engine stalled, when you put
your foot back on the gas pedal, it wouldn’t start, not unless you
turned the ignition switch, which you definitely don’t do every
time you lift your foot off the gas pedal.

When you lift your foot off the gas, the throttle plate closes,
which, to the engine, means idle. Although being engaged to a
transmission prevents the engine from reaching idle speed rpm,
the engine does reach idle vacuum levels.

Try this: At speed (60mph or so) lift off the gas and put the
shifter in neutral (or push in the clutch pedal for manuals) and
wait a moment. The tachometer should read the number of rpm you
normally see at idle. So, even though the car is hurtling down
the road at 60mph, the engine thinks you are sitting at a stop
light. That is, until you re-engage the clutch or put the gear
shift back into drive.

The fuel flow is reduced, though. Fuel injector pulse width
is a function of throttle angle and engine rpm (and a host of
other temperatures and pressures). Injector pulse width is the
time duration the fuel injector is open (usually measured in
milliseconds). The injector is merely an opened-closed valve,
which is open for the duration known as “injector pulse width”.

B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6

From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 96 10:43:09 PST
Subject: Re: XJ40 battery

I forgot to mention one more thing.
After I took the old battery out, I noticed a rubber tube that runs
from somewhere around the battery box down to beneath the car.
My best guess is that this is just some sort of drain tube in case
water accumulates in the battery box. Can somebody confirm me on this?
I don’t really see anywhere this tube can connect to.

Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD

From: “Andy Broer” andy_broer@taligent.com
Date: 2 Apr 1996 11:41:06 -0800
Subject: Introduction (part II)

Mail*Link(r) SMTP Introduction (part II)

Hello again to all!

After a year or so of absence I have returned to the list! A year back I was
looking at purchasing a fun car for myself when I am not about on my Ducati
900SS. I have always thought highly of the XJS and was considering one when
last I listened in. Regrettably, I stopped listening in when I chose to go
with an italian car (the brand with the little “horsey” thing on the tail end
of the car)…BUT wait there’s more!

So things were hunky-dory there for awhile when the Mrs. says to me, “We need
to get rid of the monthly payment on the BMW” (well, actually, I just said
that to further the plot along…

So, we sold the “Blau-Mit-Weiss” and went hunting for a replacement.

A few weeks later…

We bought a 1983 XJS White with tan hides. 78k miles on the clock, chrome
glowing bright, paint glossy with only 2 scratches and one chip, interior is
in pretty good shape, passenger side seat has a small tear near the stitching,
but is otherwise in very good shape.

Took it to British Motors in San Jose, CA for the one over before I bought.
They came back with the laundry list of things. Most are minor. The one big
ticket item is the leaking “Stub Axle” which is bleeding oil onto the rear
brakes as well. Some lights are out and the cruise in non-op, but overall not
too bad. Car smogged alright, and we are on our way.

Oh, the tranny seemed just fine, and the compressions tested out on all 12
cylinders between 175-180. Which apparently is just fine and dandy.

Any recommendations for thrifty, but competent repair stops in the San Jose
area? I have done a bit of calling about and am considering British
Motorsport, Jaguar Purrformance and Jaguars Unlimited. Has anyone had
experience with any of these Northern California shops?

It is nice to be back.

Thanks in advance to all your wisdom and kind words,

Andy Broer
1994 Ducati 900SSCR
1983 Jaguar XJS HE
1975 Ferrari Dino 308GT4

From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 12:09:50 -0800
Subject: Re: 120 dhc

You wrote:

Hello all,

To adapt my car to the spanish legislation, turning lights need to
be=20
incorporated. Does somebody have experience on this?=20
Looking at the diagrams,

Jose

Hi Jose…
I have one of our cars in Madrid… You will find it with its owner
and the owner of Hispano Alemagna Motors Ben Heiderick… he handles
Lamborghini and Chrysler among other franchises…

Just call on him and I am sure he can help.
say hello from me!!! .

all the best
tony

VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web

From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 12:15:38 -0800
Subject: Re: XJ6 SIII auto-trans

Zoran

I just heard you have made it safely into England and to our facility
in Wolverhampton…

I also understand from Malcolm that you have one of the nicest S3 XJ6
left hookers he has seen !!!

He tells me that the paint is perhaps better than it might have been
when new !!

congratulations on such a fine car…

tony

VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web

From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 13:05:11 -0700 (MST)
Subject: – US Fund-raiser Preliminary Results –

The Jag-lovers fund raiser was a spectacular success!!!

As of Apr 1, the US fund-total stands at $620. A couple members
warned me that they had sent their contributions in late, so I
expect the total to end up around $650 by the end of the week.
I will post the final total next Monday.

This presents a bit of a problem since the total is well over
our target of $150 (the cost of net access to operate the
Jag-lovers mail list for 1 year). If costs are constant, we
have raised enough money to run the list for over 4 years.

Next Monday, I will send the money and pictures which I have
received to Nick to be used to run the list for the next
couple years. I’ll ask Nick to give us a brief outline of
how he will administer the fund.

I would like to sincerely thank the following people for
contributing to the fund-raiser and keeping Jag-lovers alive:

Donald and Anna Sime Waukegan, Illinois
Dick and Kathryn White Lexington, South Carolina
Tracy Ferrell San Diego, California
Peter and Donna Pesch Chardon, Ohio
John Elmgreen NSW Australia
Jim Beckmeyer Union City, Michigan
Georges Krcmery Quebec CANADA
Dennis Murphy and Nancy Beck Geneva, Illinois
Bill and Sara Clark Sunnyvale, California
Peter and Miriam Pepinsky Auburn, Alabama
Eugene Johnston Chapel Hill, North Carolina
Chris Howard Millbrae, California
Dr. Robert and Judy Reid Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Lawrence and Anne Buja Boulder, Colorado
Bradley Mack Falls Church, Virginia
Silas Elash San Jose, California
Chery and Brian Chase San Jose, California
Timothy Altman Palatine, Illinois
Eugene Siciuivas Toronto CANADA
John and Susan Shuck Westport, Connecticut
Carol and Todd Traver Croton-on-Hudson, New York
Nikolay Chitayev St. Louis, Missouri
Sharon and William Trimble Auburn, Alabama
Eric Logan Westport, Connecticut
Luci and Alan Johnston Huntsville, Alabama
Richard and Virginia Cavicke La Jolla, California
Doug Bohannon Winter Haven, Florida
Robert Woodling Bloominton, Indiana
Darlene and Peter Morris Vista, California
Michael and iris Frank Bronxville, New York
Hugh and Mary Jane Rainge Chelmsford, Massachusetts
J.F. “Cal” Callahan San Diego, California
Vincent Chrzanowski Baltic, Connecticut

/\ Lawrence Buja http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern/
_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
________________Boulder,Colorado___80307-3000

From: “R. Eugene Johnston (smp)” rej@cs.unc.edu
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 15:44:11 -0500
Subject: BW transmission woes

As happens every so often, I remember previous discussions on the group
about a problem that I didn’t have then, but do now. I am refering to
the BW transmission “morning sickness”. My series 1 XJ6 is showing
signs of not wnating to move the first thing in the morning. I can
back out the driveway find, but then the motor races and it won’t
go into forward drive. This lasts for maybe up to 1/2 minute. Then
it reluctantly goes into drive and by the time I have gone a block
or so, the transmission is shifting like normal and works fine the
rest of the day. Can anyone resurect the previous discussions that
I seem to remember happened on this group? I didn’t find anything on
Nick’s web pages. Gene Johnston '72 XJ6, '53 MK7

From: JQJF14A@prodigy.com (MR JOHN W SHUCK)
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 1996 15:57:42 EST
Subject: Re: Almost Jaguar Content: Gumball rally

Re…the jag in the Italain Job. There were two e-types. One was
restored just recently by Therobred and Classic Cars inthe UK I
believe. What really made me cry was the bucker loader picking up an
Aston Martin DB5or 6 conv. and throwing it over a cliff. They made…
what 200 of these cars…The mini’s going up and down the stairs is
cute too. John Shuck xk120, e-type westport, conn

From: TezFair@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 16:24:57 -0500
Subject: Re: XK8 orders

Your Dealer is not quite correct!
What Jaguar have done is to inform buyers some months back that if they buy
the current XJS then they can exercise a ‘trade in’ option at 80 per cent of
the ‘S’'s original value, so as to enable them to get the first XK8’s when
available for sale. Those who have waited may not get their car until mid
November.

The actual production of the XK8 will comence from 15th April 1996.

The last XJS ( UK spec, Ice Blue, V12 Coupe, Vin 226645) will run off the
production line around 1 - 2 PM Thursday 4th April after 20 years, 5 months.

Tez

From: mkenrick@golder.com (Michael Kenrick)
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 12:49:32 -0800
Subject: Fuel flow on deceleration

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From: William Kroppe kroppe@mich.com
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Author: William Kroppe kroppe@mich.com at internet
Subject was: Re: XJ-S ECU Open/Closed Loop

Can you or Robert Dingli or Michael Neal confirm whether fuel
flow is shut off under trailing throttle?

Sorry, I don’t know enough about this particular system to answer.

Well, if you think about it, if the fuel flow was cut off, the
engine would stall, right? If the engine stalled, when you put
your foot back on the gas pedal, it wouldn’t start, not unless you
turned the ignition switch, which you definitely don’t do every
time you lift your foot off the gas pedal.

 Your pre-computer view of life is outdated, I'm afraid.  The 
 mid-eighties XJ-S ECU does this neat trick when you lift your foot off 
 the gas and decelerate in gear.  But the ECU (or whatever) turns the 
 fuel flow back on when the revs drop to around 1100 rpm.  Magic!  
 
 If you turn the on-board computer to read instantaneous mpg, you see 
 it leap to an impossible 99 mpg during this deceleration phase.  No 
 fuel flow.  It was introduced with the HE engine, I think, as part of 
 the fuel economy drive.

When you lift your foot off the gas, the throttle plate
closes, which, to the engine, means idle. Although being
engaged to a transmission prevents the engine from reaching idle
speed rpm, the engine does reach idle vacuum levels.

Try this: At speed (60mph or so) lift off the gas and put the
shifter in neutral (or push in the clutch pedal for manuals) and
wait a moment. The tachometer should read the number of rpm you
normally see at idle. So, even though the car is hurtling down
the road at 60mph, the engine thinks you are sitting at a stop
light. That is, until you re-engage the clutch or put the gear
shift back into drive.

 The funny thing is, when I do this, the coasting revs are around the 
 1100 rpm mark.  The idle-in-neutral revs when stationary are around 
 800 rpm, and the idle-in-gear revs when stationary are around 550 rpm. 
  Wrong again, I'm afraid, William :-(

The fuel flow is reduced, though. Fuel injector pulse width
is a function of throttle angle and engine rpm (and a host of
other temperatures and pressures). Injector pulse width is the
time duration the fuel injector is open (usually measured in
milliseconds). The injector is merely an opened-closed valve,
which is open for the duration known as “injector pulse width”.

 No, fuel flow is cut off.  Zero.  Nada!
 
 Michael Kenrick

–IMA.Boundary.702874828–

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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 3 April 1996 Volume 02 : Number 027

From: Mike Bourget msmbou@magi.com
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 1996 17:03:38 +0000
Subject: Jag Lovers

Hi, I just found the jag-lovers note on the web. I recently
purchased an american model (I live in Canada) 1985 xj6 vanden plas.

I love the car, it truly is amazing to drive. My questions (I am
sure the first of many) is: The central locking system. I can
centrally lock all doors (and trunk) from the inside, and the
outside (using my key) but should it also not centrally unlock? or
is this something I missed in my documentation?

Does anyone have experience ordering parts from Terry’s jaguar. I
have had good e-mail response from them. I will have to order a
catalytic converter (new) and a waterpump (recondtioned) and I just
want to check to make sure they are reliable.

I truly look forward to conversing with some/all of you

Cheers from Canada
Mike

From: mkenrick@golder.com (Michael Kenrick)
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 12:49:32 -0800
Subject: Fuel flow on deceleration

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Author: William Kroppe kroppe@mich.com at internet
Subject was: Re: XJ-S ECU Open/Closed Loop

Can you or Robert Dingli or Michael Neal confirm whether fuel
flow is shut off under trailing throttle?

Sorry, I don’t know enough about this particular system to answer.

Well, if you think about it, if the fuel flow was cut off, the
engine would stall, right? If the engine stalled, when you put
your foot back on the gas pedal, it wouldn’t start, not unless you
turned the ignition switch, which you definitely don’t do every
time you lift your foot off the gas pedal.

 Your pre-computer view of life is outdated, I'm afraid.  The 
 mid-eighties XJ-S ECU does this neat trick when you lift your foot off 
 the gas and decelerate in gear.  But the ECU (or whatever) turns the 
 fuel flow back on when the revs drop to around 1100 rpm.  Magic!  
 
 If you turn the on-board computer to read instantaneous mpg, you see 
 it leap to an impossible 99 mpg during this deceleration phase.  No 
 fuel flow.  It was introduced with the HE engine, I think, as part of 
 the fuel economy drive.

When you lift your foot off the gas, the throttle plate
closes, which, to the engine, means idle. Although being
engaged to a transmission prevents the engine from reaching idle
speed rpm, the engine does reach idle vacuum levels.

Try this: At speed (60mph or so) lift off the gas and put the
shifter in neutral (or push in the clutch pedal for manuals) and
wait a moment. The tachometer should read the number of rpm you
normally see at idle. So, even though the car is hurtling down
the road at 60mph, the engine thinks you are sitting at a stop
light. That is, until you re-engage the clutch or put the gear
shift back into drive.

 The funny thing is, when I do this, the coasting revs are around the 
 1100 rpm mark.  The idle-in-neutral revs when stationary are around 
 800 rpm, and the idle-in-gear revs when stationary are around 550 rpm. 
  Wrong again, I'm afraid, William :-(

The fuel flow is reduced, though. Fuel injector pulse width
is a function of throttle angle and engine rpm (and a host of
other temperatures and pressures). Injector pulse width is the
time duration the fuel injector is open (usually measured in
milliseconds). The injector is merely an opened-closed valve,
which is open for the duration known as “injector pulse width”.

 No, fuel flow is cut off.  Zero.  Nada!
 
 Michael Kenrick

–IMA.Boundary.702874828–

From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 09:30:06 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: Cooling experiment (SII XJ12)

Hi Larry,

You actually HAVE to do this? These things sag so badly by
themselves that most of us have to replace the blankety-blank things
every few years just to keep the car level. I wish I had known a couple
of years ago. I would have given you a set that you would LOVE!!!

Interestingly enough, my '74 sits higher at the front than my fathers '81.
In fact, last time I had the front end aligned, I asked the guy to take out
any spacers under the front springs but I don’t think there were any there.
My rear springs are sitting nicely at about the same height as the newer car.

I’ll scan some photos soon for my web page.

regards,
Robert

Robert Dingli   r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au

Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Apr 96 10:25:05
Subject: Re: 85 XJS STILL won’t run above idle

Jim, your problem sounds for-sure electrical. I don’t know enough about your
vintage of V12 system, but that click you mention suggests that one of the
relays is failing to operate. This may be no more than the usual Joseph Lucas
manifestation, so I suggest strongly that you apply my favourite shotgun
treatment: clean out all the round connectors you can find - regardless of
whether they’re part of the fuel system, the more the merrier - with acetone
and cotton buds, and check the female spade connectors for grip. Tighten them
up gently with pliers until it takes substantial force to push them on.

Good luck!

-Jan

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 3 Apr 96 10:56:00
Subject: Re: XJ6

Well, Matthias, I don’t know a lot about sixes, but 60,000 km in 20 years is
3,000 km a year, which is abnormal. My '77 XJC has 240,000 km on it according
to the stack of receipts kept by four thoughtful POs. Maybe you shouldn’t
believe the rest of the story, either… 8+>

- Jan

From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 21:45:06 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ-S ECU Open/Closed Loop

At 02:34 PM 4/2/96 +1000, robert dingli wrote:

John Napoli asks,
snip

If you are interested in further information and have www access, try doing
a search for ‘Oxygen Sensor’ and you should find a page dedicated to the
workings of this type of sensor and some of the products available to allow you
to view their output.

Thanks, I will check this out. If an inexpensive monitoring device doesn’t
exist, perhaps I will look into cobbling together a high-input impedance
black box to toggle an LED on or off depending on ECU mode.

Regards,

John

From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 21:59:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel flow on deceleration

At 12:49 PM 4/2/96 -0800, Michael Kenrick wrote:

Can you or Robert Dingli or Michael Neal confirm whether fuel
flow is shut off under trailing throttle?
The mid-eighties XJ-S ECU does this neat trick when you lift your foot

off

the gas and decelerate in gear.  But the ECU (or whatever) turns the 
fuel flow back on when the revs drop to around 1100 rpm.  Magic!

Alright! And I had guessed this would happen between 1200 and 1000 rpm.
Even a blind hawk gets a few acorns…

If you turn the on-board computer to read instantaneous mpg, you see 
it leap to an impossible 99 mpg during this deceleration phase.  No 
fuel flow.  It was introduced with the HE engine, I think, as part of 
the fuel economy drive.

Even carburetted cars (that always dribble fuel) with mpg gauges will give
big numbers under these circumstances. Did you infer the fuel shut-off from
the readings of your on-board computer, or do you have specific knowledge of
this ECU? In which case I’ve got a lot of questions for you!

Regards,

John

From: William Kroppe kroppe@mich.com
Date: Tue, 02 Apr 1996 22:40:10 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ-S ECU Open/Closed Loop

John Napoli wrote:

Your statements do not rule out the possibility the Jag ECU shuts off the
fuel under trailing throttle.

If throttle plates are closed and engine speed is above some threshold,
why flow any fuel at all? The engine won’t stall. As the rpm
drops past the threshold value (maybe 1000 to 1200 rpm), resume firing the
injectors as if the car was idling in plenty of time. The engine speed
should never drop below idle, and you’ve saved some fuel.

Wait a second. If you are in a manual trans car, cruising at 60mph, and
put your foot on the clutch and hold it, what happens? If the ECU cuts
fuel supply, there would be no combustion, therefore no means to rotate
the crankshaft from the perspective of the engine. Looking at it from
the other end, since the clutch is disengaged, there is no coupling to
the rear wheels to motor the engine. Therefore, if there is no
combustion and no motoring, then the engine rpm will decay to zero, which
we know it does not.

Also, you can verify that your automatic trans car can physically achieve
zero engine rpm by putting the selector in neutral and shutting the
key off, while coasting from 60mph. If you put the car in neutral
and coast from 60mph, you will see the rpms go to idle. Is this or
is it not true?

What am I missing?

B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6

From: “L. W. (Bill) Clark” lwc@fforsm.com
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 19:47:16 -0800
Subject: South Bay (San Francisco) 'shops…

Andy Broer…

Barney Juchli at Jaguars Unlimited Los Gatos, is a straight guy, not the
cheapest but knows what he’s doing and only has to do it once - I think Ryan
Border made the comment originally, see his page it is very helpful and he
mentions a number of experiences with other shops also .
L. W. (Bill) Clark
1965 MkII rolling…
1973 E-type roadster ‘Smokey joe’

From: BMack7316@aol.com
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 23:59:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Jags on film – 12 Monkeys

I had to turn my head in shame and have my wife tell me when it was o.k. to
watch again when I saw that poor Jag!

Brad Mack

From: BMack7316@aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 00:11:26 -0500
Subject: Re: HR or SR tires to replace VR series?

Having tried it both ways, I opt for the factory rated tire. The wisdom is
that nothing makes a Jag behave like a “non-Jag” quicker than saving a few
bucks on an important part. XJ sedans are heavy – 4,000+ lbs. A less stiff
(lower rated) tire will result in outer edge wear, specifically at the front.
In addition to that, a sloppier response can be expected. 205 sounds small
for XJ40. SIII calls for 215, and they are essentially the same geometry
and weight – double check this…

Brad Mack
85 SIII
85 XJS
922 Pathfinder

From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 96 01:20:33 EST
Subject: Re: Cooling experiment (SII XJ12)

From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
*** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FC42
*** INTERNET ADDRESS - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM *****************
Subject: Re: Cooling experiment (SII XJ12)

Robert, the series 2 always looks like it sits higher at the
front than a series 3. That’s because the wheel arch itself is
higher, not neccessarily because of springs.
My car has the holden 5 litre in it which is over 100kg lighter than
the 4.2, and so I was worried that the front of my car was floating too
high. This was even more apparent when parked next to a series 3 at
my mechanics shop.

But when I looked at the picture in my manual, this is how the design
is with a series 2…I guess the wheel arches and other things
are part of the cosmetic changes made by pinna-farina who
transformed the series 2 design into the series 3.(not too sure about
the spelling there…been a while since I read about it).

Look around at other series 2 cars…you will see that they all appear
to be sitting high at the front…I think that you need to cut some of
the coils from the spring to lower it…I’ve seen some great series 1/2
cars that have been dropped at the front…looks great…try some of
the performance suspension shops for advice…they may even have the
lower/smaller springs in stock…I’ll be in the market later this
year, so it would be great to find out how you go in your endevour
to lower the front of your car.

REGARDS…Shane
SYDVM1(SHANEM) SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM
* Forwarding note from SMTP2 --IINUS1 04/03/96 15:22 *

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From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Message-Id: 199604022330.JAA17120@mullian.ee.mu.OZ.AU
Subject: Re: Cooling experiment (SII XJ12)
To: jag-lovers@sn.no (Jaguar Mail List)
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 09:30:06 +1000 (EST)
In-Reply-To: Pine.SOL.3.91.960402092000.15621A-100000@mallard.duc.auburn.edu
from “Larry Lee” at Apr 2, 96 09:25:11 am
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Hi Larry,

You actually HAVE to do this? These things sag so badly by
themselves that most of us have to replace the blankety-blank things
every few years just to keep the car level. I wish I had known a couple
of years ago. I would have given you a set that you would LOVE!!!

Interestingly enough, my '74 sits higher at the front than my fathers '81.
In fact, last time I had the front end aligned, I asked the guy to take out
any spacers under the front springs but I don’t think there were any there.
My rear springs are sitting nicely at about the same height as the newer car.

I’ll scan some photos soon for my web page.

regards,
Robert

Robert Dingli   r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au

Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **

From: Tony Watts amw@maths.uq.oz.au
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 17:19:32 +1000
Subject: Re: XJ40 battery

I forgot to mention one more thing.
After I took the old battery out, I noticed a rubber tube that runs
from somewhere around the battery box down to beneath the car.
My best guess is that this is just some sort of drain tube in case
water accumulates in the battery box. Can somebody confirm me on this?
I don’t really see anywhere this tube can connect to.

Roger Peng

This sounds like a battery vent tube to me. On the XJ-S there is a tube
about 1/4" that connects to a sort of plastic nipple that screws into the
side of the battery.

Tony Watts

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 11:36:39 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S ECU Open/Closed Loop

watching the board computer on my XJ-S V12 (European spec, no cat 12.5:1)
shows that fuel consumption drops to 0 if you drive downhill and have the
foot off the gas. The engine is simply turned by the automatic gear box.
If I put the selector to “N”, fuel consumption goes up, since fuel is
required to turn the engine.

I think most of the modern fuel injection system have this feature.
I had a 10 year old BMW with manual transmission. It was obvoius that fuel
consumption was 0 when running downhill with a gear engaged, and got up
when you took of the gear.

But I have another question concerning idle : My idle is 750 rpm, drops
to 500 rpm when I engage the transmission. If I close both air intake filter,
should the engine stall ? The idle drops a little more, but the engine
continues to run.

- Matthias

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 11:47:27 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S ECU Open/Closed Loop

Does anyone out there have detailed schematics/tech descriptions for this
ECU?

I think AJ6 has a book on fuel injection, (which is pretty expensive), but
I don’t know how detailed it is. I would also be interested in some more
details, in particuler how to reprogram it. It should be possible to have
several different “drive programs”, like original, power, economy which
could be selected. [by simply switching to a different EPROM].

Watching injector pulse width should be possible by connecting a LED
via a resistor to a fuel injector and mount it temporary (or permanent). This
should give a clear indication when fuel is shut off. Remember to put a
protection diode on the LED, to avoid that the injector cut off peak kills the
LED.

- Matthias

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 12:32:21 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: XJ40 battery

I forgot to mention one more thing.
After I took the old battery out, I noticed a rubber tube that runs
from somewhere around the battery box down to beneath the car.
My best guess is that this is just some sort of drain tube in case
water accumulates in the battery box. Can somebody confirm me on this?
I don’t really see anywhere this tube can connect to.

Roger Peng

This sounds like a battery vent tube to me. On the XJ-S there is a tube
about 1/4" that connects to a sort of plastic nipple that screws into the
side of the battery.

I think this vent tube is now very common. Many cars have the battery sitting
under the rear seat for example (BMW) and you need to evacute vapors. Before
buying an expensive replacment, check if battery destinated for AUDI would
work. The one I bought was for a AUDI 200 (I have a XJS) and had a
nibble on the side where you could fit the hose. Or is the vent pipe coming out of an additonal cover ?

- Matthias

From: david@ipelond.co.uk (David Brown)
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 11:54:17 GMT
Subject: Farewell for now

I’m leaving my present job tomorrow (4th) and I am not sure if I will be
able to receive e-mail at my new place of work, so I am unsubscribing.

So may I take this opportunity to thank everyone for their help and I look
forward to going on-line again as soon as I can.

TTFN,
David

David Brown, IPE
david@ipelond.co.uk
///_/_/_/_/////_///______
/_/_//_/_/_/_/_/____
/_/_/_/_/______/_/_/_/______
/_/_/_/_/_/_/________/_/_____
___/_/_/////_/_/_/_/_/______
/_/___/_/_//_/_/_/____
///_/_/_/____/////_///_________

From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 04:54:35 -0800
Subject: Re: XK8

You wrote:

The last XJS ( UK spec, Ice Blue, V12 Coupe, Vin 226645) will run off
the
production line around 1 - 2 PM Thursday 4th April after 20 years, 5
months.
Tez

Fascinating!! How does one come to know this rather significant bit of
trivia?? may I ask??
regards
tony

VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web

From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@compuserve.com
Date: 03 Apr 96 08:08:18 EST
Subject: XK various

Dear Dick,  I think you HAVE solved the 120 alloy bumpers mystery.  The

bumpers are obviously such an exposed part that replacements were often
required. I have seen a 120 with fibreglass bumpers, and another with Riley
bumpers!
Re the side screen screws: don’t worry too much re the thread sizes, I do
have the threaded frame, and it would be too much trouble for you. I would
however appreciate your comments re the screw head sizes and shapes, and any
nuts ditto.
Personal note: the Australian National Jaguar Rally is on this Easter
weekend in Canberra and I am planning to take the 120 down there for the
Saturday (about 3.5 hrs each way, should be fun! great weather here recently
although its fall/autumn - still about 24 degs Celsius, beautiful!). I have
been roped into helping with the XK originality judging, with 2 others, one from
the UK (Brian Ekins, well known, has been involved for years in the UK XK Day).
Should be an interesting experience - there are 4 120s entered, one 140 and 2 x
150s. The 120s include TWO alloy cars (660012 and 660018). It’s going to be
pretty hard to get me to deduct much from them! The owner of 18 knows more
about alloy car originality than any of the judges. Another of the 120s won our
National Concours outright (i.e. all models of Jaguars) 2 years ago and has been
improved since then. Hope I don’t make too many enemies. I will report on the
points of controversy.
John Shuck suggested we just post everything to the Jag Lovers list.
Makes sense basically, except that there are some people in this XK group who
are not list members. In fact a couple said to me that they had unsubscribed
because there was not much of interest to them. Also I got a few others from
the Web site who were not Jag Lovers list members. So we have this other
improvised system that really started between me and Dick Cavicke, with Rob
Reilly (where are you Rob?) and Jamie Fiffles then contributing. John S: do you
want to be added to the group?
Jose asks about flashers/indicators for the 120. I did this job a couple
of years ago. I will try to get some notes together. My car already had
separate brackets with separate little Lucas lights for the indicators. I
fitted another flasher unit (in behind the dash where you cannot see it) and my
car already used the 120 type horn assembly but with the indicator control on it
(this would not be easy to get). The 120 horn ring is upside down, you may have
noticed. I think I took a power source from the fuse or control box, running
the wire straight back through the firewall so it could barely be seen.
Re how to get original colours. This is very difficult! There are sets
of original colour chips floating about, we have one here in Sydney for some
colours, and I have a set of painted metal plates where they have been copied.
My investigations showed that it was impossible (mostly) to use colour codes and
expect a local manufacturer to recognise them and copy them. I have Pastel
Green somewhere. I will ask if our local guy who mixed the samples will let me
tell you how that colour was done (he took a modern colour and modified it).
But he wants to keep the formulas to himself for business reasons … The other
really good way is to find a good sample in your boot, or under the dash etc and
copy that.
Shane on Jag Lovers referred to a movie On the Beach (ancient) with D
types etc. It thought you might like to know that the novel that it was based
on was written by an Australian writer Neville Shute (nom de plume) whose full
name was Neville Shute Norway. He owned almost from new an XK140 in the 1950s
and used to race it here!.
Re Tony P’s message to Jose on Jag Lovers: Tony, can you send a copy to
Jose direct? I am not sure that he is on Jag Lovers tho I amy be wrong about
that.
A couple of miscellaneous queries: XK 150 carpets - when did they go
from curly to cut pile? Also queries by Terry McGrath in current issue of CJA
mag: choke location on XK140s with manual choke (and 120s) - any ideas? early
C type heads on 140s, without the C type badges on the cam covers - were they
red or silver (later were definitely silver).
Regards, John Elmgreen

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #27

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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 4 April 1996 Volume 02 : Number 028

From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 1996 16:51:05 -0100
Subject: Re: XK8

[ vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson) ]
| [ Terry Fairbrother (tezfair@aol.com) ]
| >
| > The last XJS ( UK spec, Ice Blue, V12 Coupe, Vin 226645) will run off
| > the production line around 1 - 2 PM Thursday 4th April after 20 years,
| > 5 months.
|
| Fascinating!! How does one come to know this rather significant bit of
| trivia?? may I ask??

I think it helps if you, like Terry, work at the factory

Nick

<<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>>
<<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>>

   The Jaguar enthusiasts WWW-site         <<<
http://www.sn.no/home/nick/jaguar.html <<<

From: Dan Welchman Dan.Welchman@Smallworld.co.uk
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 96 16:13:01 BST
Subject: Re: Fuel injection

OK, I can’t resist it.

I’ve been lured into asking a fuel-injection question.

We have a special cold-start injector on the SIII XJ6 right?
(only fired during cranking).
Well why not simply fire the main injectors for a bit longer?
Is the fuel volume required too high?

(Dingli bait strictly intentional)

Dan.

P.S. …put a new battery in the XJ6 yesterday (70 amp hours).
Does anyone out there understand the battery current
ratings? (ie DIN rating, cold cranking current etc etc?)
…did the trick anyway, old battery is now relegated to
inspection lamp duty for what the Americans laughably
call “shade-tree” mechanic purposes. “Snow-shelter-tree”
mechanic might be a better description!

From: wrf@scitec.com (William Frenchu)
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 11:39:12 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Last XJS

From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 04:54:35 -0800
Subject: Re: XK8

The last XJS ( UK spec, Ice Blue, V12 Coupe, Vin 226645) will run
off the production line around 1 - 2 PM Thursday 4th April after 20
years, 5 months. Tez

Fascinating!! How does one come to know this rather significant bit of
trivia?? may I ask??
regards
tony

Not sure where Tez found out, but the issue of Jaguar World I received
a day or two ago mentioned it. They thought it was a convertible,
however. It’s already destined for a museum.

=============================================================================
Bill Frenchu |"Back when I was a
Scitec, Inc. | boy, we carved our

----------------------------------------------------| own IC’s out of wood."
Work:wrf@scitec.com (609) 921-3892 x224|-----------------------
Home:74575.61@compuserve.com |Never ask a mortician to
Web: http://www.lookup.com/Homepages/51244/home.html|“bring back a cold one”.
=============================================================================

From: LLoyd 3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@cmsa.berkeley.edu
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 96 08:33:25 PST
Subject: Heat Shield Insulation

Heat Shield Insulation is currently on sale!! I just got a JCWhitney catalog
inthe mail. It says 3/8 inch thick fiber tech padding; 2 layers of 99.5%
pure industrial grade aluminum and is 48X72 inches. Cost is $21.95. Page
s-7 of catalog number 589C. Item number 25NX0705N
Also comes 48 inches wide in 24 and 48 foot rolls.
Sale good through July 31. Phone 312 431-6102

I need a timing light, so may kill two birds with one stone. Someone also
mentioned the JCWhitney dual carb syncronizer, maybe I’ll spring for one of
those too. I may try their universal windshield washing pump motor and see
if I can use it to replace the motor in my “E” type. Anyone tried that?
All this started with the need to get some seat covers for my Mercedes.

LLoyd

From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 96 9:29:48 PST
Subject: New XJ40 Battery Installed

Well, after some comparison shopping, I ended up getting
an Interstate battery, part number 47-50 for my `91 XJ40
(Battery under the hood). Thanks for the people who suggested
it to me. This battery fits exactly. I called around to get
the best price. Some shops wanted as much as $85 for it,
but I found a place that sells it for $69.

If you have trouble locating an Interstate dealer, call this
number: (800)272-6548.

Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD

From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 1996 19:21:55 -0100
Subject: ‘79’ XJ6L Wiring Diagram (fwd)

Guys,

this dropped into my mailbox today, does anyone have the
clue the guy needs?

Nick

-------- Forwarded message --------
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 1996 00:25:34 -0800
From: “Russell D. Mack Sr.” rsmack@rust.net
To: nick@sn.no
Subject: ‘79’ XJ6L Wiring Diagram

NICK, HELP!

I need a wiring diagram for a 1979 XJ6L Model II 1/2. The car has been
hacked befor I got it (wires cut and newones added). To make it worse I
painted the engine compartment during the winter and now it’s time to put
it all back together. It seems that my skill at taking things apart far
exceeds my skill at re-assembling them. I can’t remember how all thoes
relays on the right front engine compartment hook up or what they do.
Any suggestions?

My car is a Model II with some Model III stuff. I guess some time in 79
the started outfitting XJ’s with some series 3 things. Not quite sure if
I need a 79 wiring diagram or a 80.

On a closing note. I have loved Jag’s since I saw my first XKE when I
was about 10 years old. I am trying to work my way up to one of the
classic XKE beauties. Got any you aren’t using :)?

cheers!

Russell Mack
http://www.rust.net/~rsmack/taproom/

From: mike_israel@Merck.Com (Mike Israel)
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 1996 13:02 -0500 (EST)
Subject: XJ6 Still Spewing Fuel & $$$

Greetings All,

Once again, I come to the well seeking advice on my '86 XJ6 which I have now
decided to keep for another 100,000 miles or so. In reality I could
not find another vehicle which I considered a worthy replacement for less
than $30k. Anyway, on to my question.

Quick background. My '86 XJ6 has taken to spewing fuel from the left tank
filler neck whenever the left tank is selected. It has been suggested
that the likely culprits are:

 - The fuel changeover switch.
 -  The fuel return solenoid(s)

I have replaced the fuel changeover switch ($49.00) but the problem remains.
Presuming that it is the return solenoid would it likely be the left or the
right one. (At $50 each I would prefer to order the correct item).

Further information which may be helpful.

With the right tank selected and the engine running I can look inside the
right filler neck and indeed I see a nice steady stream of fuel. When I
switch to the left tank and look in the left filler neck the flow is not as
steady and the fuel rises above the return line (which could of course be
hiding a nice steady stream).

Thanks once again.

                     mike_israel@merck.com

'86 XJ6
'77 Spitfire
'81 Rabbit Diesel

From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 96 10:22:04 PST
Subject: Re: Jag Shop

Any recommendations for thrifty, but competent repair stops in the San Jose
area? I have done a bit of calling about and am considering British
Motorsport, Jaguar Purrformance and Jaguars Unlimited. Has anyone had
experience with any of these Northern California shops?

Definitely use Jaguar Unlimited. They really know their stuff,
and the cost is very reasonable.

Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD

From: Joseph Elad jelad@qdc.com
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 13:48:07 -0500 (EST)
Subject: 1961 Jaguar MkII 3.8 for sale…

1961 Jaguar Mark II 3.8 liter sedan, 220hp 4 speed w/overdrive, great
woodwork, great replacement cloth upholstery, very minor rust, chrome
needs replating, engine not started in 6+ months, but ran when parked.

Throw some tender loving care at this car and get a winner for not a lot
of money. While concours restored examples fetch $50K+, you can own a
good original car for an order of magnitude less. I need to move this
company out of a business parking lot NOW. Will consider all offers that
are quick! Please call me at (302) 798-0899 or e-mail to “jelad@qdc.com”.

From: “rldsr” rldsr@mbs.net
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 14:30:25 -5000
Subject: british daimlers

For sale: 1972 Daimler Limo D240. Very Good condition. Jaguar str.
6 engine and jag. parts. Has sliding glass partition and bar in rear. Approx. 40K
miles. Asking $24,500. Respond to rldsr@mbs.net
Richard L. Daggett
611 SE 39th Terrace
Ocala, FL. 34471
352-496-4890

From: Elgsweep@aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 15:47:31 -0500
Subject: Italian Cars

A friend is looking for a web site or list for people (possibly deranged)
interested in Lancias. Anybody know of one?

Thanks

Dennis Murphy
Geneva, IL
1952 XK 120
1990 XJ-S (just out from it’s winter nap!)

From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 96 12:56:43 PST
Subject: XK8

Regarding the upcoming XK8, my judgement would be to not rush
out to buy one (assuming that you can afford one, of course). If you
look back, every Jaguar model has undergone an evolution of
improvements, and the first year model is often the most troublesome
(e.g. XJ40, XJS). This is true with other manufacturers as well.

Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD

From: wzehring@cmb.biosci.wayne.edu (Will Zehring)
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 16:10:11 -0500
Subject: a moment of silence?

Fellow jag-o-philes:

Someone wrote (sorry, I forgot who):

The last XJS ( UK spec, Ice Blue, V12 Coupe, Vin 226645) will run off
the
production line around 1 - 2 PM Thursday 4th April after 20 years, 5
months.

I propose that we, loyal jag-o-philes that we are, observe a full hour
silence at this time (i.e. no postings!). I presume that it is 1-2PM GMT
that is meant by the above (?). By virtue of my prodigeous methematical
skill, that comes to between 7-8 AM EST in the US (so it wouldn’t be that
hard for me), and god-knows-what in Oz (sometime around mid-night?, also not
tough). Does anyone know for sure the time difference between the eastern
US and Coventry, UK? Six hours?

Will “how much fer one-a-dem xk8s?” Zehring

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 16:37:47 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S ECU Open/Closed Loop

On Tue, 2 Apr 1996, William Kroppe wrote:

John Napoli wrote:

Your statements do not rule out the possibility the Jag ECU shuts off the
fuel under trailing throttle.

If throttle plates are closed and engine speed is above some threshold,
why flow any fuel at all? The engine won’t stall. As the rpm
drops past the threshold value (maybe 1000 to 1200 rpm), resume firing the
injectors as if the car was idling in plenty of time. The engine speed
should never drop below idle, and you’ve saved some fuel.

Wait a second. If you are in a manual trans car, cruising at 60mph, and
put your foot on the clutch and hold it, what happens?

The engine speed reduces from whatever it was (say, 2000 rpm) to idle.
There is no need for fuel flow during the time it takes to drop from
cruise rpm to the threshold rpm. The threshold rpm would be selected in
the ECU programming to permit the engine enough time to resume idling
without stalling.

If the ECU cuts
fuel supply, there would be no combustion,

Not necessary during this transient period.

therefore no means to rotate
the crankshaft from the perspective of the engine.

Inertia does it. If the car is in gear, this transition period is
obviously longer than in a situation where you are effectively in neutral.

Looking at it from
the other end, since the clutch is disengaged, there is no coupling to
the rear wheels to motor the engine. Therefore, if there is no
combustion and no motoring, then the engine rpm will decay to zero, which
we know it does not.

It does not decay to zero because the ECU can resume fuel flow in time to
maintain idle rpm.

Also, you can verify that your automatic trans car can physically achieve
zero engine rpm by putting the selector in neutral and shutting the
key off, while coasting from 60mph. If you put the car in neutral
and coast from 60mph, you will see the rpms go to idle. Is this or
is it not true?

Both statements are true.

What am I missing?

The fact that there is a finite time taken for all this to happen and
that an ECU can respond to these transients intelligently.

Regards,

John

From: TezFair@aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 17:58:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Last XJS

The last XJS ( UK spec, Ice Blue, V12 Coupe, Vin 226645) will run
off the production line around 1 - 2 PM Thursday 4th April after 20
years, 5 months. Tez

Fascinating!! How does one come to know this rather significant bit of
trivia?? may I ask??
regards
tony

Not sure where Tez found out, but the issue of Jaguar World I received
a day or two ago mentioned it. They thought it was a convertible,
however. It’s already destined for a museum.

Well I know these little bits of gossip as I work on the XJS fitting the
propshaft and center mount.

To add to Tony’s letter, the last 2 are both going to the museum, The very
last I mentioned above, the one before is a Red 4.0L convertible, Tony
O’Keefe (curator) wanted both cars to be Black but the company refused.

Will Zehring,
UK time is 5 hours in front of Eastern time.
The initial pricing will be around 50.000 pounds sterling.

In reply to Roger Peng,
<<Regarding the upcoming XK8, my judgement would be to not rush
out to buy one (assuming that you can afford one, of course). If you
look back, every Jaguar model has undergone an evolution of
improvements, and the first year model is often the most troublesome
(e.g. XJ40, XJS). This is true with other manufacturers as well.>>

The XK8 has undergone over 8 months of pre-production ‘on track’ building,
this means that rather than engineers trying to solve a production problem,
it was given to the people who know how to build the cars, the production
line workers. This is new concept for Jaguar and it appears to have worked.
Bearing in mind that the actual production of ‘sale’ cars won’t start until
the 15th April, and won’t be available to the public until October - November
there are plenty of time left to iron out any remaining faults. The XJ40 was
built when Jaguar had very little money in the bank and as such there were
some engineering problems on initial release to the public, However since we
were took over from Ford the company has undertaken a major change in
manufacturing methods and this has created tighter control over both quality
and workmanship.

Tez
my apologies for the long letter, I thought it best to answer all question in
one go.

From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com
Date: Tue, 2 Apr 1996 16:05:47 -0800
Subject: RE: XJ40 battery

Roger,
The rubber hose is a battery vent tube. Interstate batteries =
don’t have a provision for this and you will end up with an acid mess. =
The Optimas are sealed and don’t need to be vented. This also means you =
won’t get the big mess around the terminals. They also don’t sulfate as =
easily as a standard battery. I don’t have any real fitment problems =
with the Optimas, they are really worth the price.

From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 02, 1996 10:43 AM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no (Jag Mailing List)
Subject: Re: XJ40 battery

I forgot to mention one more thing.
After I took the old battery out, I noticed a rubber tube that runs
from somewhere around the battery box down to beneath the car.
My best guess is that this is just some sort of drain tube in case
water accumulates in the battery box. Can somebody confirm me on this?
I don’t really see anywhere this tube can connect to.

–=20
-------------------------------------------------------------------------=

Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD

-------------------------------------------------------------------------=

From: lingren@alldata.com (Loren Lingren)
Date: Wed, 3 Apr 96 16:01:11 PST
Subject: Re: XJ6 Still Spewing Fuel & $$$

From jag-lovers-owner@sn.no Wed Apr 3 15:28:39 1996
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 1996 13:02 -0500 (EST)
From: mike_israel@Merck.Com (Mike Israel)
Subject: XJ6 Still Spewing Fuel & $$$
To: “‘jag-lovers@sn.no’” jag-lovers@sn.no
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type> : > TEXT/PLAIN>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT
Sender: owner-jag-lovers@sn.no
Content-Length: 1249

Greetings All,

Once again, I come to the well seeking advice on my '86 XJ6 which I have now
decided to keep for another 100,000 miles or so. In reality I could
not find another vehicle which I considered a worthy replacement for less
than $30k. Anyway, on to my question.

Quick background. My '86 XJ6 has taken to spewing fuel from the left tank
filler neck whenever the left tank is selected. It has been suggested
that the likely culprits are:
 - The fuel changeover switch.
 -  The fuel return solenoid(s)
I have replaced the fuel changeover switch ($49.00) but the problem remains.
Presuming that it is the return solenoid would it likely be the left or the
right one. (At $50 each I would prefer to order the correct item).

Further information which may be helpful.

With the right tank selected and the engine running I can look inside the
right filler neck and indeed I see a nice steady stream of fuel. When I
switch to the left tank and look in the left filler neck the flow is not as
steady and the fuel rises above the return line (which could of course be
hiding a nice steady stream).

Thanks once again.
                     mike_israel@merck.com
'86 XJ6
'77 Spitfire
'81 Rabbit Diesel

Greetings Mike,
Here is a test procedure I wrote for my company. I hope it will help you.

Loren Lingren

--------------------------Test-------------------------------------

If a complaint involves fuel tank flooding or fuel transfering to or
from one tank to the other, check the following:

Before proceding with testing, open both fuel filler caps, remove air
cleaner assembly and remove spare tire and floor board covering fuel
pump.

------------------- FUEL CHANGE-OVER VALVE -------------------

Wedge airflow meter flap open slightly.
Select right fuel tank with fuel tank switch. Switch button should be in OUT position and
there should be an “R” visible on the side of switch button.
Turn on ignition switch but 1mDo not start engine.0m Fuel pump should now
run.
At change-over valve in trunk, MOMENTARILY pinch off fuel hose
from right tank to change-over valve. Fuel pump should get noisy if
hose is pinched tight enough to stop fuel flow. If pump noise does not
increase, release right tank hose and pinch hose from left tank. If no
change in pump noise, change-over valve is probably drawing fuel from
both tanks. Check changeover valve for dirt.
Select left fuel tank with fuel tank switch. Switch button should
be retained at IN position.
At change-over valve in trunk, MOMENTARILY pinch fuel hose from left
tank to change-over valve. Pump noise should increase. If pump noise
does not increase, pinch hose from right tank. If no change in pump
noise, change-over valve is probably drawing fuel from both tanks and
should be replaced.

------------------- FUEL RETURN VALVES ------------------------

Note: Fuel tanks should NOT be full to top; fuel pump should be running as outlined in steps 1-3 above.

Select right tank.
Inside right filler neck, use a long screwdriver to hold spring
loaded flap open. Using a flashlight, look into fuel tank. The end of
fuel return line is visible and should have fuel flowing from it. If
no flow, check right tank return valve electrical connections:

White/purple wire … Battery Voltage
Black wire … Ground

Check left filler neck return line. If fuel is flowing, check left
return valve for dirt or malfunction.
Select left tank.
Check left filler neck for fuel flow from return line. If not
flowing, check left return valve for battery voltage. Should be no
voltage. If voltage, check tank switch.
Check right return line for flow. If flowing, check right return
valve for battery voltage. Should be none. If voltage, check tank
switch. If flowing but no voltage, check valve for dirt.

From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 1996 21:15:22 -0500
Subject: '62 E-Type

Hi all,
Amazing news today. I drove my '62 Series 1, ots,
today! The first time the car has been driven since
1974. Ok, so it was only about 10 feet inside the
garage…but I drove it! (it’s alive?)

The help I need from anyone is;
Someone mentioned recently that Jag World last year,
and perhaps part in 1994, ran a 6 or 8 part series on
restoration of this car. Anyone have either; copies of
that, that could either be given, sold or photo-copied
for me…will pay any (resonable) costs involved.
I’ve been able to find only the Nov/Dec '94 issue.
Also, any other jag lists, sites, etc. besides this one?
(Not to replace this one!)

Finally, any and all sources for catalogues, price lists, etc
for parts would be greatly appreciated -very little in sources
up here in Toronto, Canada.
Regards,
Charles (please don’t drool on the paintwork) Daly

From: William Kroppe kroppe@mich.com
Date: Wed, 03 Apr 1996 21:43:24 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ-S ECU Open/Closed Loop

John Napoli wrote:

the ECU can resume fuel flow in time to maintain idle rpm.

I guess I learned something here. Thanks.

B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6

From: James Stapleton 73303.2013@compuserve.com
Date: 03 Apr 96 22:15:21 EST
Subject: Copy of: XJ6 Problems

---------- Forwarded Message ----------

From: James Stapleton, 73303,2013
TO: INTERNET:@owner-jag-lovers-di1,
INTERNET:@owner-jag-lovers-di1
DATE: 4/1/96 7:11 PM

RE: Copy of: XJ6 Problems

After completing a complete restoration on my 83 XJ6
I have two problem areas I can’t seem to solve.
So I turn to the list for some group problem solving.

When driving (seems more pronounced with heat on)
the exhaust smell will drive you from the car,
and if you can stand it you’re eyes water like a man who’s
just gotten the repair bill from his friendly Jaguar dealer
for a complete brake job.

2a. I can’t seem to get curb idle any lower than 1000 rpm.
I have replaced every sensor and switch I can think of
to no avail.
b. With the rpm at 1000 shifting from park to
any gear sends a sudden knock from the rear end.
At first I thought it was a bad tranny mount but it seems
to jump at the differential. Could this be a tranny or diff.
problem or is it related to idle speed ??

Any help greatly appreciated, It was a long expensive winter(sob)

Thanks in advance,
Jim Stapleton
83 xj6
73 tr6
83 944

From: ply@ozemail.com.au (Patrick Young)
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 1996 14:12:39 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: FWD>Almost Jaguar Content- (cont’d).

SHANE MANTOSZKO wrote:
Speaking of classic movies with great cars, a while back I watched
an old 50’s movie I think called ‘on the beach’ or something like
that…it is about a nuclear holocaust,<…snip…>
They go to Australia which has been left fairly unscathed, and live
out their lives…and there is a great scene where the Australian
Grand Prix is being run at Philip Island. There are ‘D’ types racing
around, with Austin Healy’s, Merc 300sl’s and all the great classics
of the era…it’s just great seeing the brand new D types flying around
the track…

Even better is going to Phillip Island, it’s the sort of circuit where if
they held a Grand Prix there a motor race might break out… I went to the
historic festival this year and it was absolutely fantastic. Actually, the
best Jaguar was a Mark VIIM driven with great gusto in the midst of hordes
of much more nimble classic saloons. The sight of several former forests now
a living a more secluded life as interior trim being visible as the car
edged into the corner and then being replaced by a vision of sliding metal
with a poise more fitting to a Spanish galleon as the car lurched away from
the apex was quite stunning!

Best wishes,

Patrick Young

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #28

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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 5 April 1996 Volume 02 : Number 029

From: ply@ozemail.com.au (Patrick Young)
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 1996 14:12:45 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Crunched Movie Cars…

Further to the many comments about crushed cars in the Italian Job
(incidentally a thread of discussion running on both this list and the Audi
one too…)

Actually if you watch the Italian Job on video and freeze frame the film,
you will notice that the Aston and the Lamborghini both have no mechanicals
at the point of destruction.

Of course, having a rolling chassis of either in the garage might still
attract the neighbours’ attention…

Regards,

Patrick Young

From: “Robert Robinson” R_squared@msn.com
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 96 04:35:31 UT
Subject: XJ6’s with Delco Electronics?

Hello all;
Guess what? The wife wants an XJ6! She’s never before shown the slightest
interest in anything but brand-spanking new cars, including the E-Types,
Healey’s, Triumph’s and Porsches I’ve cycled through our garages over the
years. She’s suddenly decided that she would look good in an XJ6. And she
would!

She doesn’t want an XJ40 - she says they “look like Cadillacs”. (My apologies
XJ40 owners, she knows not of where she speaks!) She points out Series III
XJ6’s when we’re driving and says “Like that one!”.

Hence, my Series III related questions:

When did Jaguar start using Delco electrical parts in XJ6’s?
What significant Lucas bits were “swapped out”?
Was the switch to Delco parts done gradually over several model years, or
were all changes made at once in a particular model year?

The XJ6 FAQ at the web site contains a message that states:

A friend of mine just bought an XJ6 automatic
and loves it. He bought an '86. He was told
that this was one of the best years since it
has almost all Delco parts rather than Lucas.
He was told that even the wiring was a Delco harness.

True or not? My only experience with an XJ6 was a '71. I loved it - but I
wouldn’t have recommended it as a daily driver for someone who wasn’t
mechanically/electrically inclined.

My reasons for asking should be obvious: First, for safety reasons I’d like
for her to be driving the most “reliable” model XJ6 possible. There are areas
in So. Cal. where you most certainly do not want to have to get off the
freeway. Secondly, she’s finally showing an interest in something other than
a “brand new German car”. Her willingness to experiment should be rewarded.
Thirdly, here’s my big chance to get out from under the BMW payments (BTW, I’m
convinced that “BMW” must stand for “Break My Windows” - it’s happened three
times now). And, finally, I’m the one who’ll be servicing the big cat and
I’ve got plenty of Lucas-related problems of my own.

My apologies if I’m covering old ground here.

Robert Robinson
Newport Beach, CA.
“R_squared@msn.com”

“It is better to go into a corner slow and come out fast,
than to go into a corner fast and come out dead.”
- Sterling Moss

From: BMack7316@aol.com
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 1996 01:21:55 -0500
Subject: A/C

Three thermal limiter switches, 2.5 lbs. of freon, and $100.00 later,
“JAGNRND” is blowin’ ice cold. Many thanks to Steve, the manager of the
“Radiator Shop” in Merrifield, Virginia. I spent $1290.00 with the “Radiator
Shop” three years ago on an A/C system in an 84 SIII… Steve remembered me
and the black Jag, dutifully dug into my current problem, and squared it away
with short notice – I was just passing by and told him that money is not the
object when I asked him to take a look…My highest recommendations to this
firm!

Brad Mack

From: RLET@wcnd.ns-nl.att.com
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 96 02:10:08 EST
Subject: [none]

From RLET Thu Apr 04 09:16 MET DST 1996 remote from wcnd.ns-nl.att.com
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id 3163775B@wcnd.ns-nl.att.com; Thu Apr 04 09:16 MET DST 1996
From: “VanDerLet, Ronald” RLET@wcnd.ns-nl.att.com
To: “Elgsweep” aol.com!Elgsweep@wcnd, “jag-lovers” jag-lovers@sn.no
Cc: “british-cars” british-cars@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Italian Cars
Date: Thu Apr 04 10:07 MET DST 1996
Message-ID: 3163775B@wcnd.ns-nl.att.com
Encoding: 51 TEXT
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Content-Length: 1485

Dennis,

I suggest your friend tries the LANCIA Enthusiasts Home Page at:

or the official factory home page at
http://com-e.iol.it/lancia/gameng.htm.

There’s no LANCIA mailing list as far as I know, but the Italian car list
is interesting every now and then (when people aren’t discussing how
to change a light bulb on an Alfa Milano that is).
The mailing list can be reached at:
majordomo@balltown.cma.com.
The text contained in the body of the message should be:
subscribe italian-cars-digest

Hope this helps,

Ronald van der Let
Culemborg, The Netherlands
Ronald.vanderLet@att.com

“Wouldn’t such a trip take hours, dear? It’s such an old car” as my
mother
in law said about a 130 mile trip with my Lancia. I took her for a spin
and
she’s still recovering…

'78 Mercedes Benz 280CE ------ Daily workhorse with a drinking problem.
'67 Triumph GT6 ------ Undergoing nut and bolt restoration .You need to
travel at least 6 miles to see all the parts.
'69 Lancia Fulvia Coupe 1.3S Rallye ------ Lots of fun, but would you
believe those Lancia parts prices.

From: Elgsweep[SMTP:aol.com!Elgsweep@wcnd]
Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 1996 3:48 PM
To: jag-lovers
Cc: british-cars
Subject: Italian Cars

A friend is looking for a web site or list for people (possibly deranged)
interested in Lancias. Anybody know of one?

Thanks

Dennis Murphy
Geneva, IL
1952 XK 120
1990 XJ-S (just out from it’s winter nap!)

From: scikom@ibm.net (zafar)
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 1996 10:29:47 GMT
Subject: XK various

John,

It was two months ago since we have met and since then I have not been using
the XK a lot. Two weeks ago I have replaced the exhaust in my XK with the SS
Stainless Steel system. Since my car has automatic transmission some
additional welding and bending has to be made to fit it into the car. I was
quite surprised to hear the sound (noise ?) from the SS system which is
considerably louder than the one I had originally had. I have to test it in
the freeway to know whether it is really noisy and disturbing. Do you have
any experience on this ?

On my way back from the exhaust shop (I bought the system directly from UK, the shop only fitted it) I drove into one of Jakarta’s worst rain and the car stalled after I hit a large water puddle. After having everything checked (including putting additional 5 liters of fuel in the tank) I realized that the Lumenition Electronic Ignition I installed a year ago had failed. The car did have some hiccups previously since I installed the EI unit, but I didn’ t expect it would fail at the worst time. I had the control unit installed in the cabin to eliminate heat and moisture problems, but it didn’t help. I am thinking to install another pointless ignition system (Allison ?), would you recommend it? I surely agree that it is about time to have a more frequent exchange of information between XK owners. Therefore these are notes I have on how to keep an XK running: 1. Obsession to the car, my father started it 38 years ago, but I had refined it in the last 15 years. 2. Undertanding spouse, after dating for 7 years she accepted that she is my second love 3. Do it yourself, you wouldn’t believe how much damage can be made by an average mechanic 4. Patience (lots of it), living in a place where only a handful of XK ever imported you would be very lucky to get any parts 5. Funds, there are times that other priorities had to be changed according to the XK condition More about the upkeep of my XK includes a number of ‘modifications’, because if I have to stick to the originality I will never get the car on the road. Tthe following are some modifications I had done: 1. Brake Master Cylinder, Land Rover LWB early cast iron model 2. Brake Booster, Toyota Forklift in the right hand battery tray, previously PBR VH 40 in original position 3. Brake Lamp Switch, BMW 520 mechanical type, previuosly VW hydraulic type 4. Fuel Pump, Jodoshakiki electronic in the boot, because there are a lot of floods in Jakarta 5. Fuel Level Meter, unknown China brand with unknown accuracy (see above story) 5. Alternator, Nippondenso 50 Ah, slow traffic + auto trans + halogen lights + dc generator = trouble 6. Water pump pulley, custom made with smaller diameter 7. Lots of metric bolts, nuts etc. Best regards Zafar D. Idham Jakarta, Indonesia scikom@ibm.net '58 XK 150 FHC '60 Daimler Majestic Major '69 Alfa Romeo 1750 GTV ‘76 XJS From: “ALFIE::MRGATE::"A1::FELTS1"”@id1.atc.alcoa.com Date: Thu, 4 Apr 1996 7:35:06 -0500 (EST) Subject: RE: jag-lovers-digest V2 #28 From: NAME: Tom L. Felts FUNC: SFTY (38) TEL: 412-337-2024 <FELTS1@A1@ALFIE> To: NAME: VMSMail User SMTP%"jag-lovers <SMTP%“jag-lovers@sn.no”@MRGATE> By now you all probably have seen it, but in the April 3 USA Today there was an article by James Healey (Appropriate) titled "Jaguar XKE: A Work of Art. Yesterday a 1963 E was added to the Museum of Modern Art as a part of their permanent collection. Only two other cars arer permanent at the MOMA, a 1946 Cusitalia 202 GT and a 90 Ferrari Formula 1 race car. The curator stated that the XKE has “beauty and sculptural quality”. Also quoted was “It was fast and luxurious. The E-Tupe was build from 1961 until 1974 when US autos boasted hulking cast-iron V-8 engines displacing six, seven, eight liters. The Jag began life with a 3.8 liter six-cylinder, yet it hit close to 150 MPH while Detroit’s dinosaurs struggled to bury the needles of their 120 MPH speedometers. And the E-Type danced through corners that left Fords and Chevies skidding helplessly”. Now, back to the garage to finish my 66!!! Tom From: steveb@msd.measurex.com (Steve Beck) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 96 8:53:12 EDT Subject: Re: Last XJS From: TezFair@aol.com Date: Wed, 3 Apr 1996 17:58:57 -0500 Subject: Re: Last XJS The last XJS ( UK spec, Ice Blue, V12 Coupe, Vin 226645) will run off the production line around 1 - 2 PM Thursday 4th April after 20 years, 5 months. Tez Well I know these little bits of gossip as I work on the XJS fitting the propshaft and center mount. To add to Tony’s letter, the last 2 are both going to the museum, The very last I mentioned above, the one before is a Red 4.0L convertible, Tony O’Keefe (curator) wanted both cars to be Black but the company refused. Tez Excellent information! Nice to have an insider on the list. Keep it up. Just too bad you/me/the_list weren’t around when some of the list members’ cars were built. But then you would have everyone asking questions of you… Steve '70 E type From: Don40799@aol.com Date: Thu, 4 Apr 1996 09:09:18 -0500 Subject: '72 E-Type for Sale A friend has requested me to post a notice regarding a '72 E-Type 2+2 that he is interested in selling. Exterior Color: Silver Interior: Burgundy Wheels: Steel Has A/C, but needs freon. Mechanicals: Reportedly “runs good.” (I haven’t driven it.) Exterior condition: Straight. Good paint. Has body side moldings. Interior condition: Recently refurbished, looks new. Originality: Very original and complete. JCNA Competition: Has received 1st in Driven Class in recent years. Location: San Antonio, Texas Asking Price: $18,000, U.S. He also has a complete Series III E-Type bonnet in the carton. It is new, unused, still in primer black, manufactured by Martin Roby. Asking price is $3,000, U.S. For more info., contact me at Don40799@aol.com. Don Snyder From: “rldsr” rldsr@mbs.net Date: Thu, 4 Apr 1996 12:00:48 -5000 Subject: British Daimlers Thanks to notice from Craig Tiano, I realize I transposed the model number on previously posted: For sale 1972 Daimler Limo D240; should have read- For sale 1972 Daimler Limo DS420, priced at $24,500. Richard L. Daggett 611 SE 39th Terrace Ocala, FL. 34471 352-496-4890 From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca Date: Thu, 04 Apr 1996 14:05:04 -0500 Subject: Re: '62 E-Type (it’s alive!) Hi, Thanks to all for the nice responses to my last, re: my series 1 is alive! I have already sent mail to some sources on the list and bought Hemmings. I was really pleased to hear the engine run, for the first time in 22 yrs, then we found that the clutch was seized. Fortunately, I have a really good jag man working on the mechanicals and he was able to free it by shunting the car around the garage until it freed. (“an old mechanic’s trick,” he told me) I was then able to drive it back into place (about 15 ft. or so!) Next possible prob. will be the brakes, so my fingers are crossed, which makes typing as trickey as a “S” curve in the rain. When the car started, the mufflers promptly blew off, like a shotgun, and I have just ordered a complete Stainless steel system. Today I agonized over the interior, torn (like the vinyl) between wanting to be like original and the designer part wanting to do it’s (my) own thing… settled on charcoal leather seats and black/grey dash, door panels, etc. Very surprised to have a top person tell me that the original top is just fine and does not need replacing!! Amazing to get that kind of observation from a trim person. He’s going to replace the window, liner, strip and paint the frame, new rubber, etc. All this excitement and it’s snowing like mad here. (Pleeeeze don’t tell me what your weather is like!) Regards, Charles Daly, Toronto '62 Series 1, ots '59 Rolls (match box) '95 Dino (calendar) From: TezFair@aol.com Date: Thu, 4 Apr 1996 14:50:23 -0500 Subject: XK8 and other answers Hi again, <<What repair and maintenance documentation exists for the XJ-S and how does one get hold of it ? I have the four-binder factory manual only.>> As far as I am aware the Company’s service department only produce the manual that you have mentioned and no other manual. Well we have come to the end of the road, the final car rolled off the track at 3:10PM GMT (after a 1 hour photo session). There was a general sense of sadness throughout the workforce after building the car for so long, and with all that has happened over the last 6 years with take-overs and lay-offs, it seemed that the ‘S’ would out live us all. In total there were just over 115,000 made. As soon as I get the photos developed and scanned I shall post them to Nick as I believe he will be doing an artical on the ‘S’ shortly on his home page. I hope you all liked the XK8 wallpaper, (if you’ve downloaded it) From: spe00@eng.amdahl.com (Silas Elash) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 96 13:57:15 PST Subject: Re: XJ6’s with Delco Electronics? Robert wrote:

Guess what? The wife wants an XJ6! She’s never before shown the slightest
interest in anything but brand-spanking new cars, including the E-Types,
Healey’s, Triumph’s and Porsches I’ve cycled through our garages over the
years. She’s suddenly decided that she would look good in an XJ6. And she
would!

She points out Series III
XJ6’s when we’re driving and says “Like that one!”.

Ah yes. My wife never showed any interest in cars, until we got the SIII
XJ6. Now it is getting hard to tell whose car it is. I look in the driveway
and it is gone! and so is she! If I am gone on the weekend fishing, I come back
to stories of her and my daughter driving around all weekend with the sunroof
open. When she takes the XJ6 and returns, she is full of unsolicited
remarks like, “I really love driving that car.” I can understand, I feel the
same way. When we go somewhere and end up with two cars and need to drive
home- she takes the XJ6. And yes, she does look good in it. She is going to win
this one. It will end up her car.

So count yourslef lucky that it is starting out like that,
where it is her car from the start. I guess I better get that MK2
up to snuff (she can’t have this one!).

Silas

From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@compuserve.com
Date: 04 Apr 96 19:02:38 EST
Subject: Copy of: XK various

---------- Forwarded Message ----------

From: John Elmgreen, 100353,1733
TO: MR JOHN W SHUCK, INTERNET:JQJF14A@prodigy.com
CC: James Canedy, internet:jamesc@oasis.novia.net
Dick Cavicke, internet:dikavik@aol.com
Jamie Fiffles, INTERNET:REMANKING@aol.com
Jeff, internet:saraanni@northcoast.com
Simon Johnson, internet:johnsosi@cla.orst.edu
Roger Learmonth, 100722,1033
Dennis Murphy, internet:elgsweep@aol.com
Tony Parkinson, internet:vicarage@ix.netcom.com
jose del pino, INTERNET:jjdelpi@ibm.net
Rob Reilly, internet:reilly@admail.fnal.gov
Charles Sell, internet:sellc@usa.red-cross.org
Zach Zalatel, internet:z@iamug.org
DATE: 5-4-96 12:23 AM

RE: Copy of: XK various

Dear John, I’ll add you to my list. Re the 13,000 mile car, if you really do
get near it with a camera, could you get an extra set of prints for me? I will
of course happily pay. My snail mail address is 8 Milner Street, Mosman NSW
2088, Australia. This is just the sort of thing I need. I already have
something like 5000 XK originality photos but such a car is of course a rarity.
Regards, John Elmgreen.

From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@compuserve.com
Date: 04 Apr 96 19:02:29 EST
Subject: Copy of: XK various

---------- Forwarded Message ----------

From: John Elmgreen, 100353,1733
TO: James Canedy, internet:jamesc@oasis.novia.net
Dick Cavicke, internet:dikavik@aol.com
Jamie Fiffles, INTERNET:REMANKING@aol.com
Jeff, internet:saraanni@northcoast.com
Simon Johnson, internet:johnsosi@cla.orst.edu
Roger Learmonth, 100722,1033
Dennis Murphy, internet:elgsweep@aol.com
Tony Parkinson, internet:vicarage@ix.netcom.com
jose del pino, INTERNET:jjdelpi@ibm.net
Rob Reilly, internet:reilly@admail.fnal.gov
Charles Sell, internet:sellc@usa.red-cross.org
Zach Zalatel, internet:z@iamug.org
DATE: 5-4-96 12:13 AM

RE: Copy of: XK various

---------- Forwarded Message ----------

From: zafar, INTERNET:scikom@ibm.net
TO: John Elmgreen, 100353,1733
CC: (unknown), INTERNET:JAG-LOVERS@SN.NO
DATE: 4-4-96 8:31 PM

RE: XK various

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To: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@compuserve.com
From: scikom@ibm.net (zafar)
Subject: XK various
Cc: jag-lovers@sn.no
X-Mailer: <PC Eudora Version 1.4>

John,

It was two months ago since we have met and since then I have not been using
the XK a lot. Two weeks ago I have replaced the exhaust in my XK with the SS
Stainless Steel system. Since my car has automatic transmission some
additional welding and bending has to be made to fit it into the car. I was
quite surprised to hear the sound (noise ?) from the SS system which is
considerably louder than the one I had originally had. I have to test it in
the freeway to know whether it is really noisy and disturbing. Do you have
any experience on this ?

On my way back from the exhaust shop (I bought the system directly from UK, the shop only fitted it) I drove into one of Jakarta’s worst rain and the car stalled after I hit a large water puddle. After having everything checked (including putting additional 5 liters of fuel in the tank) I realized that the Lumenition Electronic Ignition I installed a year ago had failed. The car did have some hiccups previously since I installed the EI unit, but I didn’ t expect it would fail at the worst time. I had the control unit installed in the cabin to eliminate heat and moisture problems, but it didn’t help. I am thinking to install another pointless ignition system (Allison ?), would you recommend it? I surely agree that it is about time to have a more frequent exchange of information between XK owners. Therefore these are notes I have on how to keep an XK running: 1. Obsession to the car, my father started it 38 years ago, but I had refined it in the last 15 years. 2. Undertanding spouse, after dating for 7 years she accepted that she is my second love 3. Do it yourself, you wouldn’t believe how much damage can be made by an average mechanic 4. Patience (lots of it), living in a place where only a handful of XK ever imported you would be very lucky to get any parts 5. Funds, there are times that other priorities had to be changed according to the XK condition More about the upkeep of my XK includes a number of ‘modifications’, because if I have to stick to the originality I will never get the car on the road. Tthe following are some modifications I had done: 1. Brake Master Cylinder, Land Rover LWB early cast iron model 2. Brake Booster, Toyota Forklift in the right hand battery tray, previously PBR VH 40 in original position 3. Brake Lamp Switch, BMW 520 mechanical type, previuosly VW hydraulic type 4. Fuel Pump, Jodoshakiki electronic in the boot, because there are a lot of floods in Jakarta 5. Fuel Level Meter, unknown China brand with unknown accuracy (see above story) 5. Alternator, Nippondenso 50 Ah, slow traffic + auto trans + halogen lights + dc generator = trouble 6. Water pump pulley, custom made with smaller diameter 7. Lots of metric bolts, nuts etc. Best regards Zafar D. Idham Jakarta, Indonesia scikom@ibm.net '58 XK 150 FHC '60 Daimler Majestic Major '69 Alfa Romeo 1750 GTV ‘76 XJS From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@compuserve.com Date: 04 Apr 96 19:44:01 EST Subject: XK120 660353 Dear Jamie, My records show this car left the factory sometime in 1950 (approx December) and was sold new to Appleyards (the Jaguar dealer in Leeds, England, who sold new 27 XK120 roadsters). I recorded the special owners of a few cars (where shown in the factory records) but nothing for this car. It is also not on the XK registers I have collected over the years. The little info I have therefore is neutral. It will be interesting to hear more about it from you. I presume the Siamese Prince may be the legendary Prince Bira? He drove 660001 in the first XK120 victory at Silverstone in 1949. He also raced against Moss in 1952 (see Skilleter, pp82-3, 100). Maybe the car will have some record of its UK registration number, which should enable it to be identified in one of the XK books from a photo. I haven’t checked any of the other books (e.g. White). Dick White: re your engine VA 1733-8: the car with engine VA 1588-8 was despatched Feb 60 and with VA 1932-8 in July 60, so I would guess that your engine came from a car sent out somewhere between those dates From: jrdaker@nsd-www.mkt.3com.com (John R. Daker) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 1996 17:02:55 -0800 Subject: Greetings and very important questions… well, they are to me anyway. I’ve found a car that y’all may be familiar with. Well, maybe not the particular one… It’s a 1987 XJ-S, 65k miles, very good shape cosmetically, seems good mechanically too. I’m about 98% of the way towards comitting to it. I have a few questions though (uh-oh, another novice question fest). Where is the shift point supposed to be on a US spec car? The THM 400 seems like it’s depriving me of a great deal of pleasure, shifting under full throttle at around 4300 rpm, 700 shy of the power peak. Is this normal? More EPA games? Does the kickdown not kickdown the tranny above a certain speed, say 50? 60? At freeway speeds (75+ in CA) it won’t automatically kick down when floored. Kinda disappointing. It’ll do it manually however. What’s fair price for one of these things? Any big obvious warning signs of a lemon I should look for? Any and all advice is appreciated. If you feel like it, call me at 415/968-3191. I could use fast feedback. Thanks. Livin’ in a place where it’s always riding season. jrdaker@nsd-www.mkt.3com.com From: WestNet mfrank@westnet.com Date: Thu, 4 Apr 1996 20:30:37 -0500 Subject: Re: '62 E-Type At 09:15 PM 4/3/96 -0500, you wrote:

Hi all,
Amazing news today. I drove my '62 Series 1, ots,
today! The first time the car has been driven since
1974. Ok, so it was only about 10 feet inside the
garage…but I drove it! (it’s alive?)

The help I need from anyone is;
Someone mentioned recently that Jag World last year,
and perhaps part in 1994, ran a 6 or 8 part series on
restoration of this car. Anyone have either; copies of
that, that could either be given, sold or photo-copied
for me…will pay any (resonable) costs involved.
I’ve been able to find only the Nov/Dec '94 issue.
Also, any other jag lists, sites, etc. besides this one?
(Not to replace this one!)

Finally, any and all sources for catalogues, price lists, etc
for parts would be greatly appreciated -very little in sources
up here in Toronto, Canada.
Regards,
Charles (please don’t drool on the paintwork) Daly

Jaguar World is published in G.B. The Publisher is:

Kelsey Publishing Ltd.
Kelsey House
77 High Street
Bekenhan, Kent BR3 1AN, England
Tel 0181 658 3531
Fax 0181 650 8035

US distributor is:
Eric Waiter Associates
369 Springfield Ave
PO Box 188
Berkeley Heights, NJ 07922
tel 908 665 7811
Fax 908 665 7814

I know that the publisher still had back issues as of December, 1995. They
were available for BP3.75 , plus BP1.50 postage (special deal: buy all ten,
pay for eight). The series bagan with the July/August 1994 issue, and
concluded with the January/February 1996 issue. Hope this helps.

I still have the september/October 1995 issue and the November/December
1996 issues. I would be glad to copy the articles from these issues if you
send me a mailing address. I think I also have an order form for back
issues, which I can copy for you.

As to part suppliers, most of the big ones advertise in Hemmings. My
favorites for E-Type parts are:

XK’s Unlimited. 805 544-7864. Pricey, but complete line of authentic parts.

British Auto USA 603-622-1050. Very nice selection of NOS parts.

Terry’s Jaguar 618-439-4444. Good selection of parts, with special emphasis
on high performance upgrades.

Bassett’s Jaguar 401-539-3010. Relatively small line of highly authentic parts.

All of the above suppliers have very nice catalogs, and are generous with
expert advice for customers.

There is also a long list of parts dealers which has been circulating in jag
lovers. I will forward this to you separately.

Hope This Helps!!

Mike Frank
1969 E Type 2+2

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #29

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jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 6 April 1996 Volume 02 : Number 030

From: Robert Andrew Pace rap3@freenet.tlh.fl.us
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 1996 20:45:07 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Italian Cars

Have your friend look at c2.org domain name is for sale. Inquire now.

Robert Pace
Former Scorpion owner

On Wed, 3 Apr 1996 Elgsweep@aol.com wrote:

A friend is looking for a web site or list for people (possibly deranged)
interested in Lancias. Anybody know of one?

Thanks

Dennis Murphy
Geneva, IL
1952 XK 120
1990 XJ-S (just out from it’s winter nap!)

From: Craig Burlingame burlingc@belnet.bellevue.k12.wa.us
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 1996 17:55:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: XJ6’s with Delco Electronics?

On Thu, 4 Apr 1996, Robert Robinson wrote:

Hello all;
Guess what? The wife wants an XJ6!

True or not? My only experience with an XJ6 was a '71. I loved it - but I
wouldn’t have recommended it as a daily driver for someone who wasn’t
mechanically/electrically inclined.

On the contrary, I would say the Series 1 XJ6 makes an excellent daily driver and is acutally the best of the series; first for its originality, and secondly for its simplicity. In the last 3 years, the only big problems I’ve had have been to replace the alternator a year ago and the starter motor two years ago. Otherwise my Series 1 has been a most reliable automobile and I really haven’t experienced the electrical problems usually associated with the marque. Just for the record, my '72 which I’ve owned for 6 years has 110,000 miles total (45,000 since engine rebuild by PO). I average about 7,000 miles per year and two oil changes/yr. As you can tell, I’m a big fan of the original XJ6 series and haven’t seen the car yet that would make me want to trade this one in. Craig Burlingame From: “Robert Robinson” R_squared@msn.com Date: Fri, 5 Apr 96 03:30:10 UT Subject: RE: '62 E-Type/Jag World Restoration Project Charles; Congratulations on getting your cat up and running. That first drive in a once-dead vintage car, brought back to life with your own hands, is always the most exciting one. I think part of that excitement comes from half-expecting to hear a shrieking sound coming from the main bearings or some similar horror. on April 3rd you wrote:

The help I need from anyone is;
Someone mentioned recently that Jag World last year,
and perhaps part in 1994, ran a 6 or 8 part series on
restoration of this car. Anyone have either; copies of
that, that could either be given, sold or photo-copied
for me…will pay any (resonable) costs involved.
I’ve been able to find only the Nov/Dec '94 issue.

I don’t have copies of the old Jag Worlds that you need but, in reading
through the new issue, I noticed that the restoration series has been compiled
into a book. The latest Jag World has a full-page ad advertising this and
several other books which gives a phone number to call for ordering (in
England). I’m currently in my office and the magazine is at home but I think
I remember the price as being 15 Pounds (approx. $23.00??).

If no one else is able to supply the articles for you this might be your
answer. I’d be happy to fax you a copy of the ad if you don’t have access to
the magazine.

Robert Robinson
Series III E-Type
Newport Beach, CA.
R_squared@msn.com

From: B0R0@ozemail.com.au
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 1996 17:39:24 +1000 (EST)
Subject: TIMING CONVERSION.

I have a 1978 xj6 series II jag and would like some advice/thoughts in
converting the timing from the “old fashioned” points set up to a
electronic/modula system.

1/ Am I able to use the electrics from say a series III jag (thats if they are
fitted with electric timing). If I can use such a system what would I need to
do, to do the conversion?

2/ If I am unable to use series III (or whatever) electric system do JAGUAR fit
an aftermarket kit, how much? and where would i get it from?

3/ has anyone had experience with other electronic ignition systems by 3rd party
manufacturers ie. pirahna?

any advice would be much apprieciated and most welcome, thanx in advance.

MIK

1978 XJ6 SERIES II
DATSUN 120Y (YES I KNOW, BUT I ONLY USE IT GOING TO WORK, HONEST!!!)

From: wzehring@cmb.biosci.wayne.edu (Will Zehring)
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 1996 08:15:17 -0500
Subject: Wives and jags

Fellow jag-o-philes:

Congrats to the fellow whose wife wants to get an XJ6. Would that it were
true at my own home! My wife did cut out an ad from the paper for me. It
seems a local “specialty” used car dealer has a 93 XJ6 for sale, “low
mileage, like new” for $21K US. I strongly suspect she was just trying to
tease me. She’s delighful, in that regard :-/ If I had my druthers, I’d
rather spend an additional 35K on a new XK8, but I doubt the wife would see
the frivolity in it.

Just out of curiosity, what sort of prices are late model XJ6’s fetching,
and what should a prospective buyer “beware” of?

Cheers,
Will Zehring

From: JQJF14A@prodigy.com (MR JOHN W SHUCK)
Date: Fri, 05 Apr 1996 08:28:02 EST
Subject: RE: jag-lovers-digest V2 #28

just got back from the Museum of Modern Art party and some other
goodies. The invitation arrived about a 3 weeks ago so I called and
RSVP’ed. This was held on the 4th floor of the MOMA in NYC 3 April 3-
7pm. I had met another e-type owner a few weeks ago, so he and my
wife and I attended. The exihibit was entitled Refining the Sports
Car. The had a 63 OTS on display. The car will be added tothe
permanet collection along with a Cisitalia and a Ferrari. Color was
a deep blue/purple that you don’t see much of. They also had
original drawings and blueprints and original concept drawings from
Malcomn Sayer for the e-type. They also had a restored powertrain.
I thought that because the New York Auto Show was next week…that
they might have the XJ8 there, but I did find out that the press
conference was scheduled for 10am the next morning. I discussed this
with Jim Sambolt of JANE, Jaguar Assoc. of New England and he got me
an invite. Met some of the folks from Jaguar and the JCNA. I’m not
a member, but I’ll sign up real soon. Great folks that put alot of
effort into the accociation. The Blue Geneva car was there (with the
optional chrome wheels) and guess what…a light metallic red
convertible. The interior was a very light cream color. Henry
Manney once said that the e-type was the ultimate crumpet collector
(babe magnet), but this car should come with some sort of Land
Roveresque guards to keep them away !!!. I got a press kit, but no
viewing of the engine compartment…they state that the V8 engine
is all Jag. Great preview and the car looked very special. Mike
Dale had a grin a mile wide. Watch the rags for photos…I didn’t
take any, but lots of press were there…Good Luck keepers of the
faith…the crown has been passed…I’m keeping my 66, but savin’
my beer money. John Shuck, Westport, Conn.

From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 1996 09:50:07 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ6’s with Delco Electronics?

At 01:57 PM 4/4/96 PST, Silas Elash wrote:

Robert wrote:

Guess what? The wife wants an XJ6! She’s never before shown the slightest
interest in anything but brand-spanking new cars, including the E-Types,
Healey’s, Triumph’s and Porsches I’ve cycled through our garages over the
years. She’s suddenly decided that she would look good in an XJ6. And she
would!

She points out Series III
XJ6’s when we’re driving and says “Like that one!”.

Ah yes. My wife never showed any interest in cars, until we got the SIII
XJ6. Now it is getting hard to tell whose car it is. I look in the driveway
and it is gone! and so is she!

My wife, too, has always loved Jags. She was urging the aquisition of an
XJ6 SIII, but we were soured by events at our local Jag dealer. She was
really in love with XJ-S’s, though, and a couple of years later spotted the
one that we now own. Lucky for me that it has turned out to be ‘my’ car!

Regards,

John

From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 1996 10:19:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Greetings and very important questions…

At 05:02 PM 4/4/96 -0800, John R. Daker wrote:

well, they are to me anyway.

I’ve found a car that y’all may be familiar with. Well, maybe not the
particular one…

It’s a 1987 XJ-S, 65k miles, very good shape cosmetically, seems good
mechanically too. I’m about 98% of the way towards comitting to it. I
have a few questions though (uh-oh, another novice question fest).

Where is the shift point supposed to be on a US spec car? The THM 400
seems like it’s depriving me of a great deal of pleasure, shifting under
full throttle at around 4300 rpm, 700 shy of the power peak. Is this
normal? More EPA games?

This is normal. The transmission is calibrated for shifts way below power
peak (more like 6500 rpm). Many people modify the transmission to raise
things a bit.

Does the kickdown not kickdown the tranny above a certain speed, say 50?
60? At freeway speeds (75+ in CA) it won’t automatically kick down when
floored. Kinda disappointing. It’ll do it manually however.

Often normal. The stock kickdown event relies on movement of the throttle
cable casing, and these things can seize up. Not a big deal repair.
However, as noted above, the transmission is not very aggressive.

What you have observed does not indicate a bad tranny. If these things
bother you, you will need to work on the vacuum modulator, governor and
valve body. (Tranny removal not required.)

What’s fair price for one of these things?

I would say well below $10K. Maybe 5 or 6 depending on condition. 4 if
some things need work. Book values are low and the present owner knows full
well the how often work is needed and how much it costs. Negotiate,
negotiate, negotiate.

Any big obvious warning signs of a lemon I should look for?

Jaguar World magazine (two issues back) spotlighted the XJ-S and provided an
excellent summary of things to look for, such as where they rust, fatal
rust, and so on.

I would test the car really thoroughly to see if it runs at the correct
temperature. Poorly maintained cars will have overheating problems. If it
doesn’t, I would then look for signs that it had seriously overheated in the
past. Like every cooling system component has been replaced, fresh gaskets
at the top of the engine, etc. Listen for a ticking sound at idle (not
the sound of the fuel injectors; they normally tick) that would indicate a
loose valve seat (often fatal for the engine when it pops drops out). These
loosen as the result of the engine seriously overheating. With this
problem, I would pay 2K tops. Look for good oil pressure. The oil pressure
should not be almost zero at idle with engine hot and in gear, and should be
over 50 at speed. While my buddy has an XJ-S that has low oil pressures
exactly like these and has run the car that way for four years or more, I
would be suspicious; at the least use this as another bargaining chip. Look
for signs that wiring, sensors and other bits and pieces have been bodged.
Check the operation of every power component. Check that the climate
control works properly in all modes. All of these items can be very
expensive to repair, particularly if you have neither the time nor
inclination to fix it yourself.

Of course, then there are the standard checklist items, like suspension,
brakes, steering, leaks, noises, etc.

Don’t expect a perfect car – because then none of us would have Jags! –
but be well informed and get the car for the lowest possible price. Then
budget 1/3 of what you spend for repairs in the first year, which is what it
will take to sort it all out. The car will suffer several ‘major’ failures
within the first six months simply because it is owned by someone new.

Good luck and enjoy the car.

Regards,

John

From: wzehring@cmb.biosci.wayne.edu (Will Zehring)
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 1996 11:13:36 -0500
Subject: righteous indignation

Fellow jag-o-philes:

Is it true that the XK8 comes only with an automatic transmission?

Will “What were they thinking?” Zehring

From: ClaytB3@aol.com
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 1996 12:45:07 -0500
Subject: Great Deals (if you’re lucky)

Hi y’all,

if anyone is lucky enough to be employed by Ford or Jaguar, they have some
great deals on USED Jags! For instance, you could purchase a 1992 Sovereign
with less than 50k miles for about $17k. That includes a warranty and 24 hour
roadside assistance. They also have some very attractive 2 year lease
options.
Other, less exciting, news is that I’ve added some pictures of my car to my
web page: News, Politics, Sports, Mail & Latest Headlines - AOL.com. Also included is a picture of my
daughter and her XJ-S convertible.

Adios,

Clayton B.
85 XJ-S

From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 96 10:43:53 PST
Subject: XK8

Well, the XK8 is all over the magazines now. Last night I saw
it on the cover of Road and Track, which shows it in the form
of a red convertible. I must say the car looks better in convertible
form.

Last night’s “MoneyLine” program on CNN also had a video clip of
a red XK8 convertible. Unless I heard it wrong, they say that
the vehicle will cost $90K. I think that must be wrong, because
the coupe is supposed to cost around $60K.

Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD

From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 96 10:54:27 PST
Subject: More on XK8

Some more bits on the XK8:

The Road and Track photos give a first good look at the interior.
It shows a wood dash with classic round gauges, 3 in the center.
I’m glad to see that the center console isn’t so wide, and there
are no fat door pockets protruding from the sides. However, the inside
of the door looks rather Japanese. The window controls are apparently
taken from the sedans, and look a bit out-of-place.
Still no pictures of the engine compartment.

One more thought…
The new Jag and the new Aston Martin really look too close for
comfort. I think the Jag looks better, so I wonder who’s going
to dish out $120K for the Aston! Somehow Ford has allowed the
two companies to step over each other.

Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD

From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 1996 14:07:53 -0500
Subject: Jag Catalysts

Happened to be at my local Jag dealer today as someone was taking delivery
of a new pair of ‘smog’ V12 head pipes (O2 sensor mountings and integral cats).

I noticed that these pipes did not have the corrugated metal inserts
inserted into each of the four down tubes (at the end that attaches to the
exhaust manifold). These inserts are ostensibly part of the catalyst
system, and are present on many V12s (including my '82 XJ-S HE). Anybody
who has seen head pipes with these inserts in place would reasonably
conclude that they add a lot of restriction to the exhaust.

The replacement pipes I saw today have a different shape to the cats – more
streamlined and seemingly smaller than the cylindrical cats on the head
pipes with the inserts. The parts man said that both types of pipes are
available (with the inserts and without), both are fully certified
smog-wise, and that the design without the inserts is considered a better
performer because of the reduced back pressure. (The downstream cats are
required with both designs.)

I did not inquire as to price, but it seems that anyone replacing their cats
should consider these replacements, as the Jag V12 rewards you for anything
that helps it breathe better.

I don’t know if the two designs carry the same part number. It would also
be interesting to find out if the alternate design is standard on newer
Jags. Finally, I am in the US (non-California) and that undoubtedly matters
as well.

Nevertheless, I think this information is interesting and worth noting.

Regards,

John

From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 1996 12:45:26 -0700 (MST)
Subject: The Charms of the Jaguar.

Robert started it all with:

The wife…decided that she would look good in an XJ6. And she would!

then Silas responded:

My wife never showed any interest in cars, until we got the SIII XJ6.
Now it is getting hard to tell whose car it is. I look in the driveway
and it is gone! and so is she!

and John added:

My wife has always loved Jags. She was urging the acquisition of a XJ6 SIII

This is the reason for the success of the Jaguar XJ6. It has always had
a strong appeal to both men and women.

I have always found the XJ6 to have this strange, yet marvelous ability
to somehow enhance the charms of it’s driver when it’s a woman who’s
behind the wheel. Refined, yet sporting… Civilized, yet dangerous…
Since I’m genetically biased, I’ll leave it up to the women of the group
to give us their opinions of the view going the opposite way.

While the psychologists could probably have a field day with all this
and it may only show that I’m just the naive victim of some very shrewd
marketing by Jaguar Cars Inc, it is a view that I hold to based on years
of personal experience. When behind the wheel of our Volvo wagon, Anne
appears to be just another harried mom hauling the kids around. In the
Daimler, she somehow gets transformed into this classy babe who’s
obviously going somewhere important.

Even with the turbo, Anne’s 45 minute commute to Denver in the Volvo has
always appeared to be just a grinding chore for her. But, since I’ve
taken the Volvo off the road to rebuild the engine, her commute in the
Daimler appears to have lightened her mood (and, at 16mpg, her checkbook)
considerably. She reports that people are more courteous to her and that
the middle-aged guys in the Lexi, usually the most rude and aggressive of
drivers, have been unusually polite; waving and flirting with her on the
freeway rather than smoking by her as they did before.

In fact, Anne likes driving the Daimler so much that I’ve found myself
occasionally taking it to work on her days off just to force her to use
the Volvo for the car-killing stop-and-go errand type driving. Hummmm,
maybe that’s why I’m having to rebuild the Volvo.

I like to think that I’m above getting caught in the pretentiousness
that can come with driving a luxurious Jaguar. I’ve put enough sweat
and blood into the dirty and ugly undersides of this car to pretty much
be immune to the subtle charms of it’s leather, wood and curves. For
the most part, to me it’s just another car that gets us where we need to
go, sucking a ton of gas and driving up the insurance bill along the way.

But, when pressed, I will admit to liking the attention that it can draw
among the unfamiliar… To smiling when I floor it and hear the growl
of the race-bred motor which I rebuilt with my own hands powering us by
the staid econobox’s on the highway… To occasionally going into a
corner hot, then seeing how much more I can push it before it starts to
drift… To sometimes shaking my head as I look over it’s glossy wood
dash, leather seats and wonderful curves, wondering how this simple
country boy ended up driving such a cool car… To finding myself at
the front window of our home, watching Anne drive off in the Daimler and
thinking to myself, “What a beautiful woman, what a beautiful car…”

/\ Lawrence Buja http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern/
_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
________________Boulder,Colorado___80307-3000

From: TezFair@aol.com
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 1996 15:56:52 -0500
Subject: General Answers and XK8

Hi gang,
My apologies for not being able to attach the XK8 bitmap, Nick has informed
me of the file size limit of the mail robot, I was unaware of this. So if you
wish to have it please let me know and I shall send it to you directly.

Answers…
John G. Napoli asked

Is there a workbook or guideline of some sort that describes the order in
which the XJ-S is assembled, by subassembly? I will be doing a ground-up,
and, if available, it might provide insights as to the best sequence.
Usually the factory knows best about such matters and a hobbyist might not
divine the most efficient way.<

When we build any car we are given ‘process sheets’. These sheets enable the
operator to build the car correctly. However these sheets are unavailable to
anyone other than the person that is refers to. If you get stuck and need
help and a workshop manual doesn’t help then I shall try to find out the bit
you need help on.

Will Zehring asks…

Is it true that the XK8 comes only with an automatic transmission?<
yes. They tried a prototype manual but it worked out too costly to build.

XK8…
As far as I am aware the coupe will retail for around $75K & conv for around
$95K.
Aston Martin had the body shell 2 years before Jaguar so thats why they look
the same. There are subtle differences though. Aston Martin have been fitting
alot of XJS components for years. (If you ever get chance to have a look,
check out the auto gearshift stick). The reason for this? Its all down to
economics, who cares whats under the hood when the style is right. Without
Ford there would be no Jaguar or Aston Martin.

Terry

From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Fri, 05 Apr 1996 18:26:02 GMT
Subject: Re: Wives and jags

In message 9604051315.AA20533@cmb.biosci.wayne.edu wzehring@cmb.biosci.wayne.edu (Will Zehring) writes:

I strongly suspect she was just trying to
tease me.

My wife bought me the XJ-S service manuals as a birthday present. Nice too,
but she may just have been making a point…

Regards,

Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk

From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 1996 13:56:03 -0800
Subject: New 3.8 Etype engine w/webbers avail

We have just completed a new 3.8 E type engine with webbers and
lightened flywheel and hotter cams producing 245bhp on the dyno. The
customer has now decided he wants a 4.2 ( typical!) in his car…so if
any one wants a quick motor let us know… our cost and your price is
L3,250 or $5,000 lying at our works in Wolverhampton ( UK)…

If any one wants to exchange, we can take care of that as well if you
like…

Kind regards
tony

VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web

From: wzehring@cmb.biosci.wayne.edu (Will Zehring)
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 1996 11:13:36 -0500
Subject: righteous indignation

Will causes me to shake and shiver;

<Is it true that the XK8 comes only with an automatic transmission?

LLoyd “line em all up and shoot em”

From: “Mike Strickland” Mike.Strickland@bb.iu.net
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 1996 18:17:32 +0000
Subject: Questions…

Hi

I’ve finally decided to put my money where my mouth is and I’m
looking for a Jag here in Melbourne, Fl. I’ve been checking out a
couple of XJS’s that fit what I’m looking for but both need a lot of
work. I’ve read through Kirby Palms excellent guide but it’s hard to
tell whether it’s worth taking either of them on. I’d therefore appreciate
any advice/insights list members can provide and tips on what to look
for. Hey - if I get enough response may be I can write up a buyers
guide…

1/ 1986 XJS been parked up for 8 months after AC leaked and destroyed
wiring in engine bay. The interior has now rotted away. Do the alloy
V12 deteriorate a lot from standing? Is is possible to retrim a car
like this for any thing like a reasonable amount of money? Is there
anywhere that can supply second hand jag interior trim parts? The
owner only wants about $1500 for it though.

2/ 1988 XJS - has dropped a valve seat The owner spent $7k on
rebuilding the engine after an oil pump failed and the engine locked
up solid. This sounds to me like their may be more serious damage
from the overheating and rebuilding the heads and replacing the
damaged piston is just the start of the job! Price - $5k

I don’t mind doing the work if necessary as I’ve rebuilt a couple of
MGB’s and even a Triumph Vitesse before but never any thing as
complex as a Jag. Is it worth it though or should I just hold out for
a well cared for low mileage car for less than $6k - probaly rarer than
hen’s teeth!

Cheers
Mike

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #30

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jag-lovers-digest Sunday, 7 April 1996 Volume 02 : Number 031

From: James Stapleton 73303.2013@compuserve.com
Date: 05 Apr 96 23:09:34 EST
Subject: Tick ,Tick ,Tick

In scanning my mail I came accross,

Listen for a ticking sound at idle (not
the sound of the fuel injectors; they normally tick) that would indicate a
loose valve seat (often fatal for the engine when it pops drops out). These
loosen as the result of the engine seriously overheating.

My 83 XJ6 has a rapid ticking noise sounds like it’s from the right head.
It will tick for 20-30 seconds then stop for 5 -10 min.
Is this a loose seat ??? I could never realy figure it out and thought it
might just be a tappet rotating in the head (please tell me it is).

Does anyone know how to test the trip computer ? Mine recently stopped
working and the manuel has nothing about it.

Jim Stapleton
83 XJ6

From: Georges Krcmery gkrcmery@aei.ca
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 1996 23:41:55 -0500
Subject: XJ-S battery

The XJ-S requires an expensive special battery that is vented outside via a
thin rubber tube. The P.O. had installed an ordinary one, but I did find in
the boot the enclosed vent cover which fits over the six filler caps on the
original battery. This enabled me to find a cheap substitute.
The EXIDE Mega-Cell # E42 50W has a rectangular slot around it’s filler caps
which exactly matches the vent cover with only a slight adjustment: I had to
cut off about 1 cm of the slot’s lip to accomodate a similar widening under
the nipple of the vent cover. It then snapped right into place.
The battery is rated at 435 CCA and measures 9 1/8L x 6 5/8W x 6 3/4H. It is
about 1/4’’ too wide to fit in the tray. Fortunately, the bottom of the
battery has extra plastic on each side and it is possible to carefully saw
off 1/8’’ on both sides to make it fit.
At $53.95 Can.($75.95 list)it’s an attractive alternative. Should be even
cheaper in the USA. Check it out!

Georges Krcmery
4616 Hilltop, Pierrefonds,Qc
Canada, H9J 3L7
514-620-5702

From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Sat, 06 Apr 96 00:02:00 PST
Subject: late model xj6

Will writes:

Just out of curiosity, what sort of prices are late model XJ6’s
fetching, and what should a prospective buyer “beware” of?

Cheers,
Will Zehring

Here in CA, Series III XJ6s seem to run from $5-6K (early '80s) to
$7-9K, with $9K and higher for an exceptional car with low (<70K) miles
and really nice paint. None of them should have rust.

What to beware of? John Napoli’s advice yesterday re: XJS mostly
applies. Most of the mechanicals (barring engine and tranny) are
similar, if not the same. But I can’t resist - beware of the PO. Don’t
take anything for granted - look at the brakes and rotors with your own
eyeballs, drive the car while ignoring how nice it looks and feels and
possibly smells - pay attention to the lumpy idle or lack of power at
high speeds. Ask who’s maintained it, call the service dept., give them
the VIN, and get the car’s pedigree. They should read to you the
service history. The recent threads about tires - important. There are
tires that fit, and there are tires that fit and are correct. Cheap-o
tires are indicative of a cheap-o PO. I always overkill on tires.

Best regards,

David Shield
'87 Volvo 745TGA
'84 XJ6 VDP (It only leaks from the rear main seal)

–end–

From: jamesc@oasis.novia.net (jc)
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 1996 08:29:35 -0600 (CST)
Subject: XK150 help

Currently restoring 150S roadster. The center chrome strip on the bonnet
has a dimple in it and could use new chrome. There is a NOS piece available
at a
reasonable price but it fits a DHC or FHC. If I recall the DHC is longer.
Could this be shortened to fit the roadster?

Jim Canedy SS100,MK V DHC,120 racer,150s,MK VII,Ex2

From: TezFair@aol.com
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 1996 10:20:06 -0500
Subject: XK8 and other pics

Hi again,
since the mail robot can’t handle large picture I have been busy uploading
them to my home page. http://home.aol.com/tezfair

There is the XK8 that if converted to BMP makes a nice wallpaper, and a pic
of the last S to roll off the production line. (The picture was lifted off
our local newspaper so until I get my own pics developed it is a bit rough)

This is the first ever attempt at a web page so please forgive me if its
‘different’

Terry

From: TezFair@aol.com
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 1996 10:20:16 -0500
Subject: General Answers

Hi,

Clear me up on this will you. Is Aston Martin owned by Ford too? I know
for one that both Aston Martin DB7 and the XJ220 shared the same place of
build and design at Oxfordshire, UK.<

Yes Aston Martin is owned by Ford. They took over AM somewhere between 1987 -
1989, im not exactly sure.

The DB7 and XJ220 are not built on the same site. TWR’s factory was used for
the 220.

Some sub-assemblies of the XJ220 was also built at the Browns Lane Factory.
All the paint work was done in the old Limo shop. I was able to see every 220
bodyshell that was sprayed. I was also privilaged to be a passenger in number
129.

Tez

From: JQJF14A@prodigy.com (MR JOHN W SHUCK)
Date: Sat, 06 Apr 1996 11:48:57 EST
Subject: xj8 specs

the official press kit I picked up at the introduction at the NYC
auto show states that the trans will be a new 5 speed auto with a
switchable traction control. The new convert has a glass back window
with one touch operation, heated backlite and automaitc latching. It
does not have a hard cover, but the soft cover sits proud…a styling
and space consideration…looks neat. The new engine is named AJ-V8
and is a 4 liter. The press release states that it a “clean sheet”
design. John Shuck, Westport, Con. xk120, e-type…

From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Sat, 06 Apr 1996 15:33:04 -0500
Subject: www

Hi all,
Does anyone know how to capture a photo from
a web site and d/l into gif, jpg or another useable
format?
Also, I am able to print to a color printer, photos from
www but the colors are totally off and there doesn’t
seem to be any way of controlling this.???
Tez: I d/l the file from your web site and was unable
to decode it/change it to .bmp (I have uuedode)
Any hints??
Charles Daly

From: stephen@kurtzman.com (stephen kurtzman)
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 1996 12:59:06 -0800
Subject: Re: The Charms of the Jaguar.

Lawrence Buja writes:

…

While the psychologists could probably have a field day with all this
and it may only show that I’m just the naive victim of some very shrewd
marketing by Jaguar Cars Inc, it is a view that I hold to based on years
of personal experience. When behind the wheel of our Volvo wagon, Anne
appears to be just another harried mom hauling the kids around. In the
Daimler, she somehow gets transformed into this classy babe who’s
obviously going somewhere important.

Even with the turbo, Anne’s 45 minute commute to Denver in the Volvo has
always appeared to be just a grinding chore for her. But, since I’ve
taken the Volvo off the road to rebuild the engine, her commute in the
Daimler appears to have lightened her mood (and, at 16mpg, her checkbook)
considerably. She reports that people are more courteous to her and that
the middle-aged guys in the Lexi, usually the most rude and aggressive of
drivers, have been unusually polite; waving and flirting with her on the
freeway rather than smoking by her as they did before.

…

But, when pressed, I will admit to liking the attention that it can draw
among the unfamiliar… To smiling when I floor it and hear the growl
of the race-bred motor which I rebuilt with my own hands powering us by
the staid econobox’s on the highway… To occasionally going into a
corner hot, then seeing how much more I can push it before it starts to
drift… To sometimes shaking my head as I look over it’s glossy wood
dash, leather seats and wonderful curves, wondering how this simple
country boy ended up driving such a cool car… To finding myself at
the front window of our home, watching Anne drive off in the Daimler and
thinking to myself, “What a beautiful woman, what a beautiful car…”

Lawrence, I think you could get Jaguar Cars to pay you to write things like
this.

BTW, your observations about the way strangers treat you on the road when
you’re driving a Jaguar is consistent with my experience. We have a Sable
that we use for going places we don’t feel safe parking the Jags and the
difference in the way people react is amazing. If you drive a Sable, then
people act like you’re just some schmoe caught up in the rat race like
everyone else. Driving the XJ6, you are a polite, refined person of who
deserves some special consideration. It is too bad people don’t realize
that we all deserve that special consideration, regardless of the car we
drive.

From: Craig Tiano ctiano@voicenet.com
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 1996 19:34:09 -0500
Subject: Re: The Charms of the Jaguar.

At 12:59 PM 4/6/96 -0800, you wrote:

Lawrence Buja writes:

…

While the psychologists could probably have a field day with all this
and it may only show that I’m just the naive victim of some very shrewd
marketing by Jaguar Cars Inc, it is a view that I hold to based on years
of personal experience. When behind the wheel of our Volvo wagon, Anne
appears to be just another harried mom hauling the kids around. In the
Daimler, she somehow gets transformed into this classy babe who’s
obviously going somewhere important.

BTW, your observations about the way strangers treat you on the road when
you’re driving a Jaguar is consistent with my experience. We have a Sable
that we use for going places we don’t feel safe parking the Jags and the
difference in the way people react is amazing. If you drive a Sable, then
people act like you’re just some schmoe caught up in the rat race like
everyone else. Driving the XJ6, you are a polite, refined person of who
deserves some special consideration. It is too bad people don’t realize
that we all deserve that special consideration, regardless of the car we
drive.

Just imagine the looks I get trolling the city streets in a DS420 Limousine
with blacked-out rear windows and electric division up…
Not only do people stay WELL AWAY from the behemouth on the street for fear
of colliding with it but they try to peer inside to see who the rich or
famous guy in the back is… Last time I had it out, I had 3 of my American
Eskimo dogs in the back frollicking around…and a broad grin ach time
someone tried to figure out who or what was in the back in a huge white coat…

Craig Tiano

homepage: http://www.voicenet.com/~ctiano
email: ctiano@voicenet.com

American Eskimo Dogs, Photography,
Antique Cars, HTML/CGI/Datacomm guru

------------------------------

From: WestNet <mfrank@westnet.com>
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 1996 20:16:40 -0500
Subject: RPM woes

Got the Jag out of winter hibernation, and the first drive of the year
reminded me of The RPM Problem. Here it is: The car performs beautifully
when driven humanely, but when pressed, will not perform above 4000 rpm. At
4000, it coughs and sputters, and by 4500, it is impossible to get one more
rev out of the beast. (I don't make a habit of driving like this, it's just
annoying that it isn't right!) This is what I've tried:

New Plugs
New Wires
Rebuilt Carbs
Replaced all filters (including the tank screen)
Cleaned and adjusted points
Checked timing
Tried various concoctions in the carb dampers, including 30w oil, automatic
transmission fluid, and SU approved carb oil.

Additional info: This is a 1969 XKE 2+2, with the 4.2 engine. The PO
installed several high performance retrofits, including:

SU 3-carb setup (non-federal, obviously) 
Steel tube headers, with stock exhaust
Hot cam, according to PO, the spec is:
     Lift @.050  .417 Intake,.417 Exhaust
     Duration @.014    232 Intake, 232 Exhaust, 258 overlap
Mallory dual-point distributor

I use UO needles (SU#AUD1472), as this was what PO used, and I assume they
were selected to match the cam. Standard (UM) needles have been tried to no
avail. Gas mileage is about 14 mpg (US gallons), which I think is about
right for this car. Car is very quick up to 4000.

One odd thing: the fuel pressure is 2.5 psi at idle, but increases to 8 psi
by 4000 RPM. Shouldn't this be constant? I have installed Grose Jets to
prevent flooding, just in case this was the problem. The fuel pump had been
replaced by the PO, with a non-SU aftermarket unit.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Mike

------------------------------

From: Dikavik@aol.com
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 1996 22:34:26 -0500
Subject: An unusual '85 VDP

I have been unable to persuade my wife to switch from her '79, white, high
mileage XJ6 to our unique, very low mileage, antelope colored '85 VDP. I
recently gave up trying and put a new interior in the '79, in spite of the
fact that the cost of the interior was almost equal to the market value of
the car. Now then, I have reluctantly decided that the VDP should go and
anyone interested in owning an unabused, close-to-new '85 VDP, please have a
look:

"1985 JAGUAR XJ6 VDP, Antelope with Doeskin. Only 12,500 mi. Full history
known on this car whose California "Salvage" title resulted from being
rear-ended while the car was still owned by Jaguar USA and operated by its
president. Following full repair and settlement of a lengthy local ownership
dispute, I purchased it in 1990 as an extra car and an example of a very
original Jaguar. It has been driven 8000 trouble-free miles in the last 6
years to Jaguar Club shows and for special occasions. The car will stand very
close mechanical and cosmetic inspection. $14,000.  Located in La Jolla, CA.
619 456 0849."  

Regards,
Dick Cavicke (dikavik@aol.com)
'52 & '53 OTS & FHC
'79 XJ6 & '85 VDP
'91 Sable SW

------------------------------

From: Michael Neal <mneal@wco.com>
Date: Sat, 06 Apr 96 20:53:12 -0800
Subject: E Type For Sale

I posted this a while back for a customer.  He still hasn't sold it so here it goes again.  It appears to be a '69 Series 2 E-Type Coupe.  This is a real coupe, not a 2+2.  It's one owner, primrose and in pretty good shape, low mileage.  The owner is asking 19K.  Any opinions on the true value of this?

Thanks

------------------------------

From: "Ryan Border" <border@best.com>
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 1996 22:27:43 +0000
Subject: Re: Tick ,Tick ,Tick

James Stapleton writes:

> My 83 XJ6  has a rapid ticking noise sounds like it's from the right head.
> It will tick for 20-30 seconds then stop for 5 -10 min.
> Is this a loose seat ????   I could  never realy figure it out and thought it 
> might just be a tappet rotating in the head (please tell me it is).

Oh boy does this sound familliar.  Went through exactly this a few 
months ago with my '83 XJ6 motor.  Exactly the same symptoms.

Cause (as everyone who reads my mail knows) turned out to be a loose
exhaust tappet guide.  

Pull the cam exhaust cam cover and check the top surfaces of the 
tappet guides for evidence of contact with the cam.  If nothing
looks too bad, you can probably make your tick go away by installing
a stake-down kit... and as some have proved, it can be done 
(carefully) in the car.  Even if this turns out not to be the 
problem, the stake-down kit is considered good preventative
maintenance for these engines, and so you've got nothing to loose
by putting it in, and everything to gain.  

> Does anyone know how to test the trip computer ?  Mine recently stopped
> working and the manuel has nothing about it.
Sorry, no help here.

Good luck-
Ryan.

------------------------------

From: stephen@kurtzman.com (stephen kurtzman)
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 1996 22:43:44 -0800
Subject: Re: E Type For Sale

>I posted this a while back for a customer.  He still hasn't sold it so
>here it goes again.  It appears to be a '69 Series 2 E-Type Coupe.  This
>is a real coupe, not a 2+2.  It's one owner, primrose and in pretty good
>shape, low mileage.  The owner is asking 19K.  Any opinions on the true
>value of this?
>
>Thanks

What area is the owner located in?

------------------------------

From: Kirk Stewart <kstewart@MNSi.Net>
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 1996 02:02:51 -0500
Subject: xj40 trip computer

Hell, i'm new to this group and enjoy it so far. I've just (3 weeks) purchased
a 1988 6cyl sovereign and am enjoying it thus far, but I love to tinker.

Question: how does the trip computer get it's fuel data? It is convinced
that inst mileage is 99mpg, range is 999 and avg is 0.0

all else seems to work correctly, including the fuel guage.

I would appreciate any comments. thanks, kstewart@mnsi.net

------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Gram <101454.2570@compuserve.com>
Date: 07 Apr 96 04:49:06 EDT
Subject: Re: TIMING CONVERSION.

One way is to use the S3 ignition system. You need a (nother) distributor and
distributor cap, The corresponding amplifier and an evening studying wire
diagrams, and another building it in. I've done so but had to rever to old
system due to "funnies" in the vacumm advance system (which even was a vaumm
retard at some times).

There are also numerous NON-jaguar electronic kits. Most work fine.
Regards Jeffrey Gram, '78 XJ6C, XJ12 Sov HE.

------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Gram <101454.2570@compuserve.com>
Date: 07 Apr 96 05:54:58 EDT
Subject: Re: RPM woes

Hi Mike,

Unless there is something fishy about the carburation (check with a colortune
kit or aexhaust gas analyzer), a possible culprit is the vacumm advance unit.
The vacumm advance should be zero at idle (but with the dynamic at 12 deg BTDC
as far as I remenber (Europe) and 0 degrees North America (EPA again))), and the
advance at 1700 RPM is 20 deg with the vacumm pipe disconnected, thus this is
the dynamic RPM dependent advance. 

With vacumm pipe disconnected (but plugged), run at idle adjust timing to
specificatiom. Run engine at 1700 and check the advance beinga about 18-21
degrees. with steady 1700, and timing strobe gun pointed , whack throttle fully
open 1.5 seconds. Observe that the advance goes steadily up (earlier) following
the rpm. Connect vacumm pipe. Chech timing at 1700 RPM, should still be close to
18-21. with steady 1700 rpm (buy a timing strobe with built in rpm meter), whack
throttle open 1.5  seconds again. This time advance should be sudden moving
considerably before faster than before. I dont know the exact value, which is
difficult to read anyway since this is off the markings on the flywheel.

Notice that on the triple carb SU HD8's the front carb has the vacumm take off.
The hole drilled from top to just behind the throttle disc is very very small
(guess 0.6 mmillimeter), and if cloggged will provide no vacumm advance what so
ever. I haven't finished my triple carbs yet but one thing that I am going to
experiment with is the size of this hole. A small hole will not provide the same
level of vacumm at the distributor immediately as which appears immediately at
the manifold. One would tend to think Jaguar should have got this right but I
don't necessarily think so.

Get some vacumm  meters installe d in different places (manifold and in vacumm
line to distributor), and start tracking it down. Note however that shunting a
mechanical vacumm meter into the vacumm line to the distributor will change the
dynamic characteristics (vacumm build up slower due to more air to remove), but
the static vacumm remains the same.

Good experimenting. Regards Jeffrey Gram

------------------------------

From: Paul Peard <Paul.Peard@BankersTrust.com>
Date: Sun, 07 Apr 1996 13:44:06 +0100
Subject: Re: Plugs swimming in oil!

FWIW, I thought that this list was a free for all, we are all 
allowed to have ideas, I sometimes get silly/obviously wrong 
replies to queries, its up to me to sort the wood from the 
trees, at least people have bothered to show some interest in my 
problems!

Please don't let it degenerate into an electronic bitch-a-thon, 
I personally welcome any response even if its "yeah me too" or 
"no never seen it" or even the occasional "don't be stupid, have 
you checked you have gas in it!".

Just to add a bit to possible lack of service history for the 
car that started all this, I guess it means that the plugs 
haven't been out of the car for a while.

As always, just opinions
Paul

------------------------------

From: DHarr13177@aol.com
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 1996 10:54:04 -0400
Subject: Re: RPM woes

try replacing the coil

are you getting point bounce in the distributor? try replacing the points and
\ or have the distributor checked on a machine.

fuel flow can be checked by disconnecting the line to the carbs and timing
and measuring the amount pumped- compare to the shop manual

Doug

------------------------------

From: TezFair@aol.com
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 1996 11:08:15 -0400
Subject: Hi

Hi,
I have been busy updating my home page (http://home.aol.com/tezfair).
I have included some Convertible pictures of the XK8 and the last S to roll
off the track.
My appoligies to those who have visited and had corrupted pics.
Tez

------------------------------

From: BMack7316@aol.com
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 1996 11:17:51 -0400
Subject: List Fund

Hey gang,

Lawrence announced that we have a 4x overrun in the list fund colllection.
 That being said, I would like my contribution to go to Nick as token of
appreciation for the all the hard work... Lawrence, can you manage two
categories of contribution, or is it too late?

Brad Mack
85 SIII
85 XJS
92 Pathfinder

------------------------------

From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 1996 09:28:49 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Core Dump: Vintage racing an XK-120.

I found this article in a newsletter of the Rocky Mountain Vintage
Racing Club and thought it was worth reprinting.  The vintage class
which it describes is as close to racing a stock original 1952 XK-120 as
is safely possible: skinny tires, stock suspension, motor, cooling and
no aerodynamics (as opposed to fat sticky Yokohamas, lowered stiffened
suspension, a hot motor, custom radiator with a modern waterpump, and
cooling ducts up the ying-yang).  Basically, it's a core dump of Bob
Grossman's brain as he takes...

              A Lap of Steamboat in the Jag XK-120 FHC

Sunday afternoon -- group 5 on the track, getting centered for group 6.
Allard is a problem and I know I can get at least the red Prosche.  Got
to keep these MB's (Mercedes Benz Gullwing's) behind me - Rene really
charges.  Doug's 120 roadster will eat me alive if I screw up anyplace.
Keerist can that Abarth Allemano run!!

Got to to get speed and still get 5 and 6 right for the spectators.
Grid up. Position 9.  Five fingers up.  Belts on, four fingers up.
Glasses on console, helmet on, three fingers up. Glasses, gloves, two
fingers, ignition, starter, temp check, oil check one finger.  Keep the
MBs behind, find that Porsche roadster.  No fingers, roll out easy -
good pressure, water 160, second, track looks great.  Turn two, ease
into third - field strung out, Allard ahead with the Porsche, three,
four, around the bends, still strung out, count pairs, 1,2,3,4, me track
right, 7 down the hill, 8 bunching up, looks good for green, chicane,
nice grid... Green!!!

Nobody's going!!  Hole opening on the left, quick look and take it.
Damn, cut Rene's MB off cold - we're OK, so go!!!  Tires are cold, big
wheel spin on one, into two, big slide to the condos, third, fourth,
concrete - brakes, off brakes, blip throttle, third, brakes, off brakes,
second around 3, slide to 4, confidence tap, slide out into 5 entry.
Damn too much throttle, MB makes about 20 feet on Jag.  Into 5 in
second, get the big opposite lock going great, scares the shit out of
everybody!  Hit third at the workers station and into 6 with some
massive oversteer.  Hold the slide... hold the slide... not to close to
the inside, hold the slide... exit wide, cross track, check rear traffic
- - made great time on MB.  Second brakes, off brakes, pussy foot around 7
- - damn too close to barrels!  Will slide out at exit and lose speed down
the hill - damn, 4th, cones on left one, two, brakes, off brakes, blip
thottle, third, blip, second, apex, power - control wheel spin, full,
third, Abarth!! Chicane - damn I don't like this turn, apex out, full in
third, start, finish, fourth, stay in it - concrete on right, slight
bend, jam brakes, blip, third, blip, second, adjust with brakes, turn
in, slide going... control... control... full on, confidence tap, turn
in, slide out, full, third, whew!  Fourth, competition OK, concrete, jam
brakes, off brakes, blip, third, blip, second, turn in - easy, easy,
turn 4, nice exit, good time to 5, this time in third - seem to bog at
exit - into six - nice slide this time, clip at exit, slide wide,
competition, push seven, jam brakes, better entry and exit - good power
down the hill - made some time that round!!!  Eight, up the hill,
competition spread out, traffic coming up - pre-wars, take it easy -
Frazer-Nash, Alvis, Moggie - get on left to fill corner - damn, Rene
takes outside and pre-wars are right in front of me!! MB passes and I'm
stuck - turn 2, mash gas big time and off to catch the MB!  God I love
this stuff!!
                                    Bob Grossman
                                    Mighty Roar Racing Team
                                    Golden, Colorado

/\      Lawrence Buja           http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern/  
  \_][  southern@ncar.ucar.edu  National Center for Atmospheric Research
      \_________________________Boulder,_Colorado___80307-3000__________

------------------------------

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #31
*******************************

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jag-lovers-digest           Monday, 8 April 1996        Volume 02 : Number 032

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: TPatton111@aol.com
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 1996 12:51:11 -0400
Subject: jag won't crank

I have a 1982 Jaguar XJ6. I can't get it to crank. There is "fire" going to
the coil but not leaving the coil. There is not "fire" on the spark plug
wires. I replaced the coil but it still didn't crank. There is not any broken
wires that I can see. The distributor cap is not cracked (4 months old) and
the rotor button has just been replaced, too. Could this be the control box
or main computer?

Can you suggest anything?
Thanks in advance.

------------------------------

From: "White, Dick" <white@msgate.ColumbiaSC.ATTGIS.COM>
Date: Sun, 07 Apr 96 17:09:00 edt
Subject: RE: www

Charles,

The way to download pictures is dependent on what type of web browser you 
are using.  I use Netscape with Win95  and the way it works is to click the 
right mouse button and select 'save this image as....'.  Terry's pictures 
are already in JPEG (.jpeg) format.  If you want to convert to bitmap (.bmp) 
there are several applications available to accomplish this.  A shareware 
app which I use is LView-pro.  Open the file in the current format and save 
in the wanted format.  If you are using Win95, a great site for shareware 
applications is //www.windows95.com.  Choose '32-bit shareware...non-network 
shareware.....graphics.'  There you will find several graphics apps like 
Lview-pro, Paintshop Pro, and Graphics Workshop for Windows.  By the way 
this site is not run by Microsoft.  Check out fun and games while you're 
there too.  If you're not using Win95 there are probably other sites but I 
don't know.  Perhaps someone else can suggest.

Good Luck,

Dick White
Columbia, SC
'64 3.8 S-Type
'58 XK 150 FHC
 ----------
>From: charles daly
>To: jag-lovers
>Subject: www
>Date: Saturday, April 06, 1996 3:33PM
>
>Hi all,
>Does anyone know how to capture a photo from
>a web site and d/l into gif, jpg or another *useable*
>format?
>Also, I am able to print to a color printer, photos from
>www but the colors are totally off and there doesn't
>seem to be any way of controlling this.???
>Tez: I d/l the file from your web site and was unable
>to decode it/change it to .bmp (I have uuedode)
>Any hints??
>Charles Daly
>
>

------------------------------

From: James Stapleton <73303.2013@compuserve.com>
Date: 07 Apr 96 20:18:13 EDT
Subject: Xj6

Hi everyone,

Sorry to such a pain in the but with questions BUT,
After spending a year refurbishing my XJ6 outside-
inside and tons of mechanical.   I was thrilled last week
to find there was a Jag-Lovers list  and have been posting
numerous messages with my hit list of "Unsolved Mysteries".

1.  What is the normal operating water temp ?
     My car runs around 90 to 95 c.  Although
     the manual says the green area of the gauge
     is normal,  at 90c you can't touch the valve covers.

2.  What temp should the electric cooling fan come on ?

3.  I'm going to be replacing my catalytic converter,
     has anyone replaced this with a test pipe ?
     If so what do you have to do with the 02 sensor ?

Hope someone can shed some light on these questions.

Thanks,
Jim Stapleton
83XJ6

------------------------------

From: rudeen@ridgecrest.ca.us (james rudeen)
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 1996 18:07:19 -0700
Subject: List

Hello, allow me to introduce myself.  I am a retired engineer/manager,
having worked for the US Department of Defense for 33 years.  I have had a
love of Jaguars since first seeing/driving an XK 120 many years ago, at a
time when ownership of such a fine automobile was only a dream.  Twenty
years ago I purchased a tired XJ6 and after several years completed it's
restoration.  I sold it 8 years ago.  Ten years ago I located a tired and
somewhat abused 1972 XKE roadster, which I still own.  My restoration
project has been on-again/off-again since then, but one day I will finish
it.  This abused machine with it's wonderful spirit had been severely
pranged in the bonnet and then left parked in a barnyard.  When I first saw
her, she sat there humbly accepting the three large pigs wondering around
and bumping her sides, and humiliated by several chickens roosting on top.
Needless to say, her spirit called to me and I rescued her.  Except for the
bonnet, which was straightened to an acceptable shape, and an interior
abused by sitting in the sun, which is still not completely restored, she
is in quite good shape for her years.  Our climate is dry which is kind to
steel.  If anyone knows of a good used bonnet for a 72 XKE series III that
is for sale, I would appreciate the lead.  Glad to be aboard.  Jim

------------------------------

From: TPatton111@aol.com
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 1996 21:06:53 -0400
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #31

I have a 1982 Jaguar XJ6. I can't get it to crank. There is "fire" going to
the coil but not leaving the coil. There is not "fire" on the spark plug
wires. I replaced the coil but it still didn't crank. There is not any broken
wires that I can see. The distributor cap is not cracked (4 months old) and
the rotor button has just been replaced, too. Could this be the amplifier or
pick-up unit?

Can you suggest anything?
Thanks in advance.

------------------------------

From: croach@tnet.net (Chuck Roach)
Date: Sun, 7 Apr 1996 19:51:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: XJS ???

Hi,
I'm new to the list and have been downloading the archive files to find out
whats been going on before I got here. I have an '85 XJS that I bought 11
years ago when it had 18k on it from a little old lady in Portland, Oregon.
I was living in the L.A. area at the time. Since then I have seen the light
and now live in Victoria, British Columbia. Great place to live. Even lucky
enough to have a Jag dealer when I need parts I can't get anywhere else, and
friendly advice when needed.

	First, a compliment to Kirby for his book on the XJS. Looks like a lot of
work. Had a hell of a time downloading it. Took 4 tries to get a good copy.
But well worth the effort. Reading through it as time permits. Just came
across a problem I've had for years regarding the turn signal dash
indicators. My right turn indicator only blinks once, but the outside lights
are working. I will check the bulb types and contact connections this
weekend. Thx. again Kirby.

	Now for my problems that perhaps I can get some help with.

	1. LOW  IDLE WHEN COLD. I know its supposed to be a  bit low during the
first 45 seconds, but mine will stay around 500 RPM until the engine really
warms up. Then it idles around 750-800 RPM. I removed the aux. air valve and
tested it using hot water and it seems to work. Wide open when cold and
almost closed when hot. It doesn't quite close.
	2. STARTING PROBLEM WHEN HOT. When the engine is at operating temp. and I
start it without giving it gas as soon as it starts, it will stall. It will
do this multiple times until I give it gas. I found that I was getting vac.
advance immediately when I start it so I clamped off the vac. to the
distributor. No help. Didn't think that was my problem anyway. Which brings
up a question. Am I causing any problems by having advance immediately? I
assume my time delay solenoid is leaking when it gets hot as I don't have
vac. to the distributor when the engine is cold during the first 45 seconds.
Then I clamped off the vac. line to the left hand fuel regulator. Surprise,
it starts and runs. The vac. to the left hand regulator goes through a
thermal valve (EAC5086) or (EBC4600 sub.) (page1I 03L jag parts catalog)
that senses fuel temp. in the fuel rail. Asked my friendly Jag. svc. mgr.
what this was for and he says its used for hot start. 
	Questions:    What does applying vac. to the regulator do?
		      Whats the theory behind changing the pressure, cold vrs.
hot?
		      What kind of problems would I cause by clamping off this
line so that there is no vac. when the engine is cold?

	Is there any information available as to what the various Lucas testers,
such as the "epitest" and the instrument tester( SR/409), are measuring so
that the various checks that they are doing could be done with a meter,
oscilloscope or another instrument that is more readily available?

	I have the Haynes manual and the Jaguar Repair Operation Manual (AKM 3455
ED 4) but am not really happy with either. Any other suggestions where I can
get any better manuals?

 				Regards,
				Chuck Roach
				'85 XJS
				'80 BMW 528I
				'81 El Camino
                                Compuserve 76637,3501
                                croach@tnet.net
Note: Resending this as I'm not sure it made the list.

------------------------------

From: charles daly <cdaly@passport.ca>
Date: Sun, 07 Apr 1996 23:18:38 +0100
Subject: d/l from net

Hi all,
Many thanks to all who responded re: my request for
help in d/l from the net.  As many suggested (I am posting 
this only to help others who might enjoy doing this)
I did the following;

I am using win95 and Netscape Nav.2.
I saved a bright red Series 1, ots from the net, as a jpeg,
and d/l it into Photo-shop. I then "repainted" it white, to 
match mine own E-Type, then reduced a head/shoulders of 
myself and pasted it (me!) into the drivers seat. I then saved
it as a .bmp and loaded it into control panel/Display/backgrounds.
It is now my wallpaper!
It taught me a lot today...I am going to do a
total restoration of my E-Type...in photo-shop!
Have fun,
Charles Daly

------------------------------

From: "ALFIE::MRGATE::\"A1::FELTS1\""@atc.alcoa.com
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 1996 7:29:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: RE: jag-lovers-digest V2 #29

From:	NAME: Tom L. Felts                  
	FUNC: SFTY (38)                       
	TEL: 412-337-2024                     <FELTS1@A1@ALFIE>
To:	NAME: VMSMail User SMTP%"jag-lovers <SMTP%"jag-lovers@sn.no"@MRGATE>

Re: "I actually Drove it!!"  This was an especially good Easter weekend!  
After 6 years of restoration of my 66 E rdster, I drove it.  It was only in 
the parking lot, but I drove it.  Runs fantastic, and, ----great 
acceleration!

Just have a few things to do on the bonnet and add a few things inside and 
its' "on the road again"!

Tom

------------------------------

From: charles daly <cdaly@passport.ca>
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 1996 09:26:36 +0100
Subject: Re: "I actually Drove it!!"

At 07:29 AM 08/04/96 -0400, you wrote:
>From:	NAME: Tom L. Felts                  
>	>
>Re: "I actually Drove it!!"  This was an especially good Easter weekend!  
>After 6 years of restoration of my 66 E rdster, I drove it.  It was only in 
>the parking lot, but I drove it.  Runs fantastic, and, ----great 
>acceleration!
>>Just have a few things to do on the bonnet and add a few things inside and 
>its' "on the road again"!
>
>Tom,
  Great news about your '66 E! Happy to hear that another one is alive!
  I hope the "things to do on the bonnet" had nothing to do with the
  "great acceleration!" (G)
 Charles Daly

------------------------------

From: charles daly <cdaly@passport.ca>
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 1996 09:35:19 +0100
Subject: James Rudeen, new member

At 06:07 PM 07/04/96 -0700, you wrote:
>Hello, allow me to introduce myself.

Hi Jim,
Welcome!  Your story about the E & the chickens
is a good one (sounds like a good movie!)
Mine is similar, sans animals.  I 'found' my '62
Series 1, ots, is my sister's garage, where it sat
since 1974!
Doing a restore also, (not concourse, of course
but close.)  Should be driving this summer.
Have fun here and if you need anything,
just ask -a very helpful group here.  
BTW, I think you are in California? Great place for
a cat!  Up here, in Toronto, Canada, it's still snowing!
Guess that means I have to put the top up!
Best,
Charles Daly

------------------------------

From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 1996 09:55:11 -0400
Subject: Re: The Charms of the Jaguar.

>BTW, your observations about the way strangers treat you on the road when
>you're driving a Jaguar is consistent with my experience. We have a Sable
>that we use for going places we don't feel safe parking the Jags and the
>difference in the way people react is amazing. If you drive a Sable, then
>people act like you're just some schmoe caught up in the rat race like
>everyone else. Driving the XJ6, you are a polite, refined person of who
>deserves some special consideration.  It is too bad people don't realize
>that we all deserve that special consideration, regardless of the car we
>drive.
>
>

It's amazing the attention a Jag can bring.  I use my '82 XJ-S a lot,
including business trips, and while it looks good it is no trailer queen.  

On one trip, visiting clients in rural/suburban Pennsylvania, I parked the car amidst the other cars in the lot.  All day long, people I don't know (mostly women) are coming up to me and asking "Is that your Jaguar?".  That evening, catching a quick bite at a local diner, the waitresses all make a big fuss about the car, one asking for a ride (no, she didn't get it -- I am very happily married :] ).  Amazing.  I even see people in NYC occasionally stealing glances.  And New Yorkers don't acknowledge much!   Jags draw an inordinate amount of attention, unusual considering that they are not all that rare.  Odd that this is an angle totally ignored in the Jag advertising I've seen.  I'd bet that most production automakers would kill for that kind of brand regognition/reaction. Regards, John From: Hunt Dabney <hdabney@earthlink.net> Date: Mon, 8 Apr 1996 08:45:30 -0700 Subject: Re: Tick ,Tick ,Tick Jim- Re your trip computer: I've noticed that if the battery voltage drops too low, the trip computer will drop out and stay disabled (no display), until I pull it's fuse (or cable harness). Has happend when the lights have been left on, that sort of thing. THe fuse block can also corrode a bit around the fuses - sometimes reseating them helps. I have had to replace the 5 volt regulator in the computer, however, so these fail, too. Hunt At 11:09 PM 4/5/96 EST, James Stapleton wrote:
>In scanning my mail I came accross,
>
>> Listen for a ticking sound at idle (_not_
>>the sound of the fuel injectors; they normally tick) that would indicate a
>>loose valve seat (often fatal for the engine when it pops drops out).  These
>>loosen as the result of the engine seriously overheating.
>
>My 83 XJ6  has a rapid ticking noise sounds like it's from the right head.
>It will tick for 20-30 seconds then stop for 5 -10 min.
>Is this a loose seat ????   I could  never realy figure it out and thought it 
>might just be a tappet rotating in the head (please tell me it is).
>
>Does anyone know how to test the trip computer ?  Mine recently stopped
>working and the manuel has nothing about it.
>
>Jim Stapleton 
>83 XJ6
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: Elgsweep@aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 1996 12:45:07 -0400
Subject: RE: Questions....

>I've finally decided to put my money where my mouth is and I'm 
>looking for a Jag here in Melbourne, Fl. I've been checking out a 
>couple of XJS's that fit what I'm looking for but both need a lot of 
>work.

>Is it worth it though or should I just hold out for 
>a well cared for low mileage car for less than $6k

Low mileage might be tough, but high mileage and well cared for is OK.
Be patient and hold out for a good one! They are there. $5k is way too much
for an '88 with possibly serious engine problems. I sold an '85 a year ago
for $6,000. It had 77k and was in primo mechanical shape, straight & solid,
with an above average interior, but had bad paint (no rust). A $2,000 paint
job and it would be top notch. I looked at some nice '88 and '89 cars in the
$10k to $15k range.

It is really worth holding out for a good, low mileage example. The resale
value does not encourage big money restorations. Also, see the Jaguar World
issue (Feb  or March '96) focusing on XJ-S. A lot of good tips on what to
look for when purchasing.

Dennis Murphy
Geneva, IL 
1952 XK 120
1990 XJ-S

------------------------------

From: Ryan Border <rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 1996 10:02:32 -0700
Subject: Hub question

Hi Guys-

  A question regarding splined hubs:  How chewed is too chewed?  

I have purchased (in a bundle of other parts I wanted) a set of splined
front hubs.  One of them (to my eye) looks perfectly serviceable.  The
other has some visible damage, and I'm trying to decide if it's still
usable.

  Let's see if I can draw a picture:

          __________________                      ___________________
          |                 --------____      /---                  |
          |                             --__--                      |
          |                                                         |
  --------|                                                         |--------

This is a rough representation of the worst spline.  What apparently happened 
to the car that these parts came from is that someone installed the splines
on the wrong side of the car and the spinners went their own way under
braking.  Looks like the left wheel fell off the car without doing any
damage.  As the right wheel started to go, the driver applied the brakes,
locking the hubs.  The right wheel continued to spin as it fell off, grinding 
the above wear pattern into what was probably the top of the hub:

            \       \  <-  Wheel falling off car
             \       \
              \       \
            ---x--     \
   locked        |      \       x marks the damage
      hub-> ------       \
                 \        \
                  \        \

Because the hub was locked down by the brakes, the damage is constrained to
about a 30degree arc on the hub.  The rest of the splines are fine.   The
worst damage (in the center of this arc) is about like the picture above.
Towards the ends of the 30degree arc, it becomes barely visible.

So- is this hub garbage, or still a usable part?

Judging by the condition of the lower ball joints (covers and retaining screws
ground off, balls ground down to hemi-spheres), I'd guess the car was moving 
at a pretty good clip when the wheels fell off.  Must have been an exciting 
ride to say the least.

The good news in all of this is that I have upper and lower A-arms, steering 
arms, uprights, stub-axles, and if I choose to use them brake calipers and
rotors from a 420.  This will allow me to convert to a MK2-like front 
suspension assembly, which in turn makes front splined hubs available (if I
can't use the ones I have), which finally lets me do the conversion 
to wire wheels for my MK1 :-).

===== __ ============================================================== |> ===
     /\_\           Ryan Border                           o~_ o~_     __|    *
    / / /           Hewlett Packard Company, Inc.          >/-.>/'_  /_o|    *
   / / /_  _______  Software Design Engineer             ( )\---\(*)-( )'    *
  / / /__\/\______\ email: rborder@cup.hp.com or border@best.com             *
 / / __  / / __   / 19111 Pruneridge Ave. mailstop 42LX, Cupertino, CA 95014 *
/ / / / / / /_\/ /  (408) 447-2496      FAX: (408) 447-0641                  *
\/_/\/_/ / _____/   WWW: http://www.best.com/~border/howdy.html              *
===== / / / ==================================================================
      \/_/                

------------------------------

From: "Norm deCarteret (813-878-3798)" <nsdec@vnet.IBM.COM>
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 96 13:33:11 EDT
Subject: Cars I have owned....

Here's my contribution.  Maybe I got smarter over the years, but more
likely dumber.  I deleted motorcycles and bicycles from the list, and
also the vehicle and registration#s :-)  I recommend keeping a list
with all this information because it makes it easier when the DMV or
insurance agent mangles a number - I don't have to go searching.
There's many cars I'd like to own again, but I'm happy with everything
I still have (now that I've got rid of the last Lincoln :-).  Norm

Jun57 - Sep57  1952 Nash Rambler (used) O/D
Sep57 - Nov57  1957 Chevy Bel-Air - fast!, traded after blew the auto
Nov57 - Jun59  1958 Chevy Impala  - slow!  in effect, my last automatic
Jun59 - Jun61  1959 Chevy Impala  - 4 bbl and duals
Jun61 - Nov61  1961 Corvette white - base 283
Jan62 - Jun63  1962 Pontiac Grand Prix - 4 speed
Jun63 - Jun64  1963 Triumph TR4 - 1st Britcar, least annual mileage rate
Jun64 - Jun66  1964 Buick Skylark conv. - V8
Jun66 - May67  1961 Corvette (used)
May67 - Nov70  1967 Olds 442 conv. - HD everything, 85K miles
Jun70 - Jun72  1970 Datsun 240Z - 9th delivered on East Coast 90K miles
Jun72 - Apr78  1972 Datsun 240Z - 185K miles
May77 - Oct77  1977 Honda Accord -
Mar78 - Oct85  1978 Honda Accord - last new car (ever?)
Aug80 - Jul81  1963 Austin-Healey 3000 - maybe I got 200 miles on it?
May83 - Mar90  1949 Lincoln Cosmopolitan (auto)
Dec83 -        1969 Jaguar E-Type primrose roadster
Jun85 - Dec86  1966 Olds 442 hdtop
Jun85 -        1974 Datsun 260Z
Jan88 - May89  1981 Datsun pickup
Feb88 - Apr89  1955 Thunderbird
Jun88 - Aug92  1959 Austin-Healey 3000
Jul88 - Nov89  1974 Corvette
Aug88 -        1974 Datsun 260Z rdstr (yep, conversion)
Nov88 - Dec93  1936 Auburn 852 phaeton
Apr89 - Apr96  1946 Lincoln Continental coupe
May89 - Sep91  1977 Chevrolet Scottsdale pickup (auto)
May89 - Dec90  1956 Studebaker pickup
May89 -        1936 Auburn 852 phaeton (apart)
Dec89 - Apr92  1956 Lincoln Premiere (auto)
Jul90 - Aug91  1964 Studebaker Challenger
Apr91 -        1968 Oldsmobile Delta Custom (455 ci, factory 3 spd)
Aug91 - Sep93  1952 Studebaker Commander Regal
Sep91 -        1974 International C100 3/4 pickup
Apr92 -        1948 Studebaker Cmdr Regal Starlite
Jun92 -        1975 Cosworth Vega black (830 total miles)
Aug92 - Feb93  1953 Studebaker Starliner
Dec92 - Sep94  1962 Studebaker GT Hawk
Oct93 -        1972 Citroen SM
Feb94 - Apr96  1931 Auburn 898A phaeton

Norm deCarteret - nsdec@vnet.ibm.com
(PS - incidentally, I'm moving North about 1,000 miles from Tampa and
 could be persuaded to sell many of these, excepting only the Olds and
 Z-roadster, e-mail if interested)

------------------------------

From: mark@stoner.wsmr.nasa.gov
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 1996 05:51:31 -0600
Subject: Mail Test - please ignore

mail test

------------------------------

From: jackb@epix.net (Jack Bednarski)
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 1996 15:40:23 -0400
Subject: 71 XKE

I have a 71 XKE V12 with 27,000 miles.  Needles to say, the car is not
driven regularly.  A foul smell comes into the passenger compartment.  It
smells like exhaust but I can't find any leaks.  A machanic said the
stromberg carbs are the cause of the problem.  I add lead to the gas.

Can this be true?  Any suggestions?  

Jack Bednarski
71 XKE
90 XJ6 VDP

------------------------------

From: STEVEN.HUFF@hq.doe.gov
Date: 8 Apr 96 15:51:00 -0400
Subject: '94 XJ40 VDP Security System--Advice Needed

          Hi!  I've been lurking for several months, enjoying all and 
          learning a great deal.  In January I bought my first:  a Flamenco 
          Red/Creme 1994 Vanden Plas, in service 16 months, 8300 miles, 
          perfect condition, from a Jaguar dealer near Washington, DC.  

          After the purchase I learned, the PO was a Californian who got 
          Jaguar to purchase the car back "to maintain customer relations," 
          whatever that means.  I've had the car for almost 90 days and had 
          minor adjustments made.  A mechanic friend, familiar with 
          Jaguars, looked/drove her and didn't find anything wrong ("no 
          leaks or anything visible").

          BUT NOW I NEED THE GROUP'S ADVICE & COUNSEL ON THE OPERATION OF 
          THE SECURITY SYSTEM.

          Last Thursday night the front passenger window was smashed and 
          the cellular phone (mounted to the right of the console) was 
          stolen.  Also gone were the lambswool carpet protectors.  When I 
          emerged from dinner to discover the carnage, I was somewhat 
          surprised.  The alarm system wasn't sounding.  But I had to 
          disarm the security system to open the driver's door, so it was 
          still activated.  

          Can you all give me any reason for the failure?  The dealership 
          service advisor did not note the security system failure on the 
          repair invoice, but did tell me the crew checked the computer and 
          couldn't find an error recorded.  I thought the motion-induced 
          security feature would kick in.  I'm uncomfortable; will the 
          system will fail again?  Won't the system keep on sounding until 
          the battery goes dead?  What am I missing here?  

          I really need your straight scoop on this subject.  

          FWIW, the District of Columbia Metropolitan Police Department 
          doesn't normally respond to glass breaks; doesn't take 
          fingerprints; or chase car vandals.  I reported the cell phone 
          theft -- which is becoming more and more common -- the next day 
          via phone.  One day, because of the electronic serial number, I 
          may get the phone back.  

          Thanks

          Steven Huff
          Steven.Huff@hq.doe.gov

------------------------------

From: LLoyd <3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@cmsa.berkeley.edu>
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 96 12:49:18 PDT
Subject: Re: List

Jim,
  Your description of the "E" sounds very familiar. I have a '71 Series II
that sat in the barn for ten years after her "dad" died. Then the mechanics
were refurbished and I bought her with sills and floors needing replacement.
Right now, the tub is about ten hours of labor from being painted.
  Maybe by June.....

  LLoyd

------------------------------

From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 96 13:44:02 PDT
Subject: Monday Chuckles

| 
| 60 -Californians put on sweaters (if they can find one in their
|     wardrobe)
| 
| 50 -Miami residents turn on the heat
| 
| 40 -You can see your breath, Californians shiver uncontrollably
|     Minnesotans go swimming.
| 
| 35 -Italian cars don't start
| 
| 32 -Water freezes
| 
| 30 -You plan  your vacation to Australia, Minnesotans put on
|     T-shirts, Politicians begin to worry about the homeless,
|     British cars don't start
| 
| 25 -Boston water freezes, Californians weep pitiably,
|     Minnesotans eat ice cream, Canadians go swimming
| 
| 20 -You can hear your breath, Politicians begin to talk about
|     the homeless,  New York City water freezes, Miami
|     residents plan vacation further south
| 
| 15 -French cars don't start, You plan a vacation in Mexico, Cat
|     insists on sleeping in your bed with you
| 
| 10 -Too cold to ski, You need jumper cables to get your car going
| 
|  5 -You plan your vacation in Houston, American cars don't start
| 
|  0 -Alaskans put on T-shirts, too cold to skate
| 
|  -10 -German cars don't start, Eyes freeze shut when you blink
| 
|  -15 -You can cut your breath and use it to build an igloo,
|      Arkansas residents stick tongues to metal objects, Miami
|      residents cease to exist
| 
|  -20 -Cat insists on sleeping in your pajamas with you,
|   Politicians actually do something about the homeless,
|      Minnesotans shovel snow off roof, Japanese cars don't start
| 
|  -25 -Too cold to think, You need jumper cables to get driver
|      going
| 
|  -30 -You plan a two week hot bath, The Mighty Monongajela
|      freezes. Swedish cars don't start
| 
|  -40 -Californians disappear, Minnesotans button top button,
|      Canadians put on sweaters, your car helps you plan your trip
|      south
| 
|  -50 -Congressional hot air freezes, Alaskans close the bathroom
|      window
|    
| 
|  -60 -Hell freezes over, Polar bears move south!!
| 
|                     ---  THE END ---
| 

- -- 
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Roger Peng                                     (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #32
*******************************

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jag-lovers-digest         Wednesday, 10 April 1996      Volume 02 : Number 033

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Peter Hamel <jo79@dial.pipex.com>
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 96 21:35:37 GMT
Subject: New Member

Hello,

I have just joined this list and am posting a quick resume as 
suggested in the Welcome message, so here goes.

I have a 1986 Series 3 4.2 in black, I have to suffer not having any 
of the extras like air conditioning, trip computer, sunroof etc.
Still it makes thing easier as there is less to go wrong (thats what 
I tell myself anyway).

I live in the UK in North London, if there are any locals to me who 
want to swap tips, suppliers etc please send me a message.

A quick question to start things off, one that is I'm sure is often 
asked, what fuel consumption do other people with the same car as 
mine get (4.2 auto). I get about 90 miles on one tank with fairly 
light footed city driving, and nearly twice that on the open road at 
about 70-80 mph.

Also I'd like to say thanks and well done to the people who set this 
and the Web site up. I am very impressed as it looks like a very 
useful resource.

Regards to all

Pete Hamel
pete.hamel@dial.pipex.com

------------------------------

From: Peter Rebbechi <"REBBECHI PETER"@a1.meoc02.sno.mts.dec.com>
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 1996 03:34:00 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: XK8 Convertible

Just saw the pictures on Terry Fairweathers Web site.  Does this car
look like a winner!
The rake on that windscreen is really highlighted in the convertible. 
Are there any rich people out there who want to adopt an Australian,
and 'finance' one of these?

Hooked and stoked.!

------------------------------

From: charles daly <cdaly@passport.ca>
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 1996 18:48:56 +0100
Subject: Roger Landry's reply re:monitor setup

At 06:16 AM 08/04/96, you wrote:
>
>There is the possibility that if you're are running your monitor at high 
>resolution, it will only show sixteen colors. (1280x1024 for example)  This is 
>a limit of the video card.
>
>Roger,
  Duh...my printer cartridge needed replacing! 
  Now you know why my mechanic won't let me
  anywhere near my Series 1!!!!
  My monitor has so much white-out on it, I can no
  longer read it anyway. (g)
  Again,
  Charles Daly

------------------------------

From: jackb@epix.net (Jack Bednarski)
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 1996 19:47:22 -0400
Subject: 71 XKE V12

I have a 71 XKE V12 with 27,000 miles.  Needles to say, the car is not
driven regularly.  A foul smell comes into the passenger compartment.  It
smells like exhaust but I can't find any leaks.  A machanic said the
stromberg carbs are the cause of the problem.  I add lead to the gas.

Can this be true?  Any suggestions?  

Jack Bednarski
71 XKE
90 XJ6 VDP

------------------------------

From: "Robert Robinson" <R_squared@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 96 02:59:11 UT
Subject: For Gregory Andrachuk

Gregory;
Don't have your direct E-mail address to respond to but I wanted to thank you 
for sharing your XJ6 experiences.  My wife still wants a Series III.  Good.  I 
was worried the feeling might pass.

My (somewhat) negative comments about Lucas electrical bits came from my 
experiences with Triumphs, Healeys and E-Types.  The unwritten vintage racing 
rule seems to be: "If you want to be competitive, replace the Lucas parts".

It's nice to know that Series III XJ6's are giving reliable service.

Robert Robinson
Newport Beach, CA.

R_squared@msn.com 

------------------------------

From: "Robert Hyndman Jr." <bhyndman@niia.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 1996 23:11:19 -0500
Subject: '87 XJ6

Hello all,
  After many months of searching I believe I've found her! She's an '87 XJ6
with 54k, all summer miles. She looks as though she just rolled out of the
show room, the product of a very meticulous, soon-to-be PO. 
  Now the reason for thes posting. The radio did not work in this vehicle.
The s-t-b PO tells me that the battery was out of the car for the winter,
and that there is some kind of anti-theft code which must be entered before
the radio will work. He told me he had the code written down somewhere but
couldn't find it. I've never heard of this. Is this true or is this guy
pulling my leg? At any rate the s-t-b PO reluctantly agreed to take the car
to the dealer and get the code before I take possession of the car.
  One other question. I have been trying to change from jag-lovers-digest to
jag-lovers, I believe I've sent the right command to majordomo, but I keep
getting (unsubscribe: unknown list 'jag-lovers-digest'), as a reply. The
same thing happens when I try to subscribe to jag-lovers. If anyone can help
with this problem it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Bob
'52 MG-TD
'84 Dodge 600 Turbo Convertible
'87 XJ6 (soon)
~:P

------------------------------

From: Michael Neal <mneal@wco.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Apr 1996 22:00:36 -0700
Subject: RE: '87 XJ6

I have a list of radio codes for all of the original Series 3 XJ6s and =
XJSs that used the coded system.  If you get me the serial number I can =
probably give you the code.  The number is on the back of the radio.  =
Don't punch in the wrong code more than three times, you'll have to let =
the radio sit for an hour with the power on before you can enter the =
proper code.

=20

- ----------
From:  "Robert Hyndman Jr." <bhyndman@niia.net>
Sent:  Monday, April 08, 1996 9:11 PM
To:  jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject:  '87 XJ6

Hello all,
  After many months of searching I believe I've found her! She's an '87 =
XJ6
with 54k, all summer miles. She looks as though she just rolled out of =
the
show room, the product of a very meticulous, soon-to-be PO.=20
  Now the reason for thes posting. The radio did not work in this =
vehicle.
The s-t-b PO tells me that the battery was out of the car for the =
winter,
and that there is some kind of anti-theft code which must be entered =
before
the radio will work. He told me he had the code written down somewhere =
but
couldn't find it. I've never heard of this. Is this true or is this guy
pulling my leg? At any rate the s-t-b PO reluctantly agreed to take the =
car
to the dealer and get the code before I take possession of the car.
  One other question. I have been trying to change from =
jag-lovers-digest to
jag-lovers, I believe I've sent the right command to majordomo, but I =
keep
getting (unsubscribe: unknown list 'jag-lovers-digest'), as a reply. The
same thing happens when I try to subscribe to jag-lovers. If anyone can =
help
with this problem it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Bob
'52 MG-TD
'84 Dodge 600 Turbo Convertible
'87 XJ6 (soon)
~:P

------------------------------

From: Baard Th Hesvik <baard@telesoft.no>
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 1996 14:12:58 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ6-misc.

Dear all,

Carb-needles.
Last year a lot of you spoke of your experience with the so called OU-needles. 
Does anyone have an address for a supplier (preferable, but not neccesarily, 
Europe-side of the pond)

High speed refusal.
My XJ6 Series I '73 is an excellent runner within "city speed limits", but once 
I floor the pedal, it sort of refuses to rev up properly. The engine has some 
65K kilometer on it and seems tip top in every other respect. Any suggestions??

Oil pressure.
Given the above, my oil pressure should be just fine, and has been so, too. 
Until suddenly last year the gauge showed readings in the upper end of the 
scale. It hardly ever moves below the - ("normal") marking. It's been some time 
(some 15K kilometer) since I had a total oil/filter change. Could a sludgey oil 
filter cause the pressure to rise?

Cheers,
Baard

- -- 
______                  _       !  Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
  /  _  /  _   _   _   /   /    !  Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
 / /_/ / /_/ /_  / / -/- -/-    !  T: +47 52735000  F: +47 52717040
/ /_  / /_   _/ /_/  /   /_     !  E-mail: baard@telesoft.no

------------------------------

From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 1996 10:24:31 -0400
Subject: Re: '87 XJ6

At 11:11 PM 4/8/96 -0500, Robert Hyndman Jr. wrote:
>The s-t-b PO tells me that the battery was out of the car for the winter,
>and that there is some kind of anti-theft code which must be entered before
>the radio will work. He told me he had the code written down somewhere but
>couldn't find it. I've never heard of this. Is this true or is this guy
>pulling my leg? At any rate the s-t-b PO reluctantly agreed to take the car
>to the dealer and get the code before I take possession of the car.

I recall postings about this several months ago.  There is a way to get the
code, and it is an anti-theft feature.  (Also a penance for ever having your
battery go flat.)

Regards,

John

------------------------------

From: Jim Marsden <JMARSDEN@corel.com>
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 1996 20:35:23 -0600
Subject: RPM woes- REPLY

Mike wrote:
The car performs beautifully when driven humanely, but when pressed,
will not perform above 4000 rpm. At 4000, it coughs and sputters, and by
4500, it is impossible to get one more
- ------------snip-------------------
I have seen this problem before on a old 150 roadster. It ran just fine till it
wound up to 4,000 to 5,000 grand.  When we hooked it up to the scope
we were suprised to find the spikes of the ignition inverted! Checking
closer we found the ignition coil had the wrong polarity! Might not be your
problem, but it's easy to check.

Jim Marsden
JMARSDEN@Corel.com

------------------------------

From: "Donald L. Sime" <103234.320@compuserve.com>
Date: 09 Apr 96 10:54:14 EDT
Subject: 94 xj6 security system

To Steve Huff re his recent breakin on his xj6,

I am sorry to hear about the window smash on your car. I think you are wrong
about the nature of the alarm system. I just turned in a 94 that was on lease.
It is not a motion detection alarm system. You can sit on the trunk and bounce
up and down all day long and the alarm will not go off. Similarly, someone could
smash every window in the car and the alarm will not go off. However, if the
crook then reaches in and unlocks the door, as soon as he opens it, the horns
will start to blow.  The system protects you from someone picking the lock and
opening the door. Even if you used a key to open the door the horns will start
to blow. To both enable and disable the alarm, you must use the the transmitter
on your key chain.  Next chance you get try various alternatives. Rock the car
up and down, the alarm should not go off. Set the alarm with the windows open,
then reach in and unlock the doors. As soon as you open the door, the noise
should start. One word of warning, don't do this at 2:00 a.m. Your neighbors are
unlikely to understand. Another  warning, you should have two transmitters. If
you don't, get another. Also, change the batterys in the transmitters once a
year. There is nothing worse than to be somewhere after you have locked the car
and realize that the batteries in your transmitter are dead or that you left it
in your coat pocket which someone else wore home from the party. 

Good luck, it's a great car. I put 30k on mine and never had it in the shop. Now
if only you could exchange the sunroof for more head room......

Don Sime
XK 150

------------------------------

From: "Donald L. Sime" <103234.320@compuserve.com>
Date: 09 Apr 96 11:53:26 EDT
Subject: XJ6 security system

To Steve Huff re his 94 XJ6 security system,

After sending my previous message, it dawned on me that you may have a motion
detection system but it is not turned on.
 I believe a motion detection alarm was availble as an option, but I never knew
anyone that had it. Since yours is a Vanden Plas, maybe your PO had it
installed.  In any event, check to see if it is activated by lifting the lid to
the glove box  that is between the seats. Back by the hinges you will see a pair
of switches that control the alarm system and something else ( I forget what).
When the alarm is activated so that you can enable/disable it, the beep-beep
that you hear will be different. If it is not activated, the transmitter on your
key chain will only lock and unlock the doors. If it is activated, the
transmitter will still lock and unlock, but it will also turn on the alarm
system. When I say lock and unlock, I mean the doors, the trunk, and I believe
the gas door. You should enable the system, and then go around to each door,
trunk and gas door to see if it locked. Then with your key, unlock the trunk and
open it. The alarm should sound.

Hope this helps.

Don Sime
XK150

------------------------------

From: Tim Daw <tim@wessex.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 1996 08:55:32 +-100
Subject: XJR-S

I recently aquired a beautiful XJR-S (BRG, cream leather, spotless) and =
am enjoying the well tuned 6 litre V12, the extra wide tyres etc. This =
model was one serious motor car, but I can't find much about the limited =
number they built. Any information would be appreciated, especially as =
I've never had a car before that so many people ask me about.

My particular model was the Guy Salmon demonstrator (VIN =
SAJJSAES3BB1262867) and according to the papers its type approval is =
prototype and though it was first registered 01 Sept 89 it wasn't =
manufactured until 31 Dec 89 (see why I'm confused)

Cheers Tim=20

------------------------------

From: Peter Hamel <jo79@dial.pipex.com>
Date: Tue, 09 Apr 96 17:49:38 GMT
Subject: XJ6 SIII radiators

Hello All,

Can anyone advise me on how easy it easy to change a radiator on a 
series 3 XJ6 4.2 non air conditioning model.
When I say easy I mean is it the kind of job I can do outside in the 
street with a normal toolkit. It says in the manual that the bonnet 
has to be removed, is this the case ?

Thanks in advance

Pete Hamel
pete.hamel@dial.pipex.com

------------------------------

From: "Norm deCarteret (813-878-3798)" <nsdec@vnet.IBM.COM>
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 96 14:01:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Cars I have owned...

Sheesh.  Apologies for posting the subject title to the wrong group -
I misbegot where the thread was...but for those interested people have
been posting their past and current cars to british-cars@autox.team.net
and it has been an interesting thread.  Norm

------------------------------

From: jamesc@oasis.novia.net (jc)
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 1996 13:25:10 -0500
Subject: History (John Elmgreen)

John
   That you for sharing your history. You are a wonderful resource to have
on the list. Hopefully information can now be pooled much easier with the
net.
   I like your attitude about driving the cars. I started out doing
concours in 1978 and got bored with it in a few yrs. I still enjoy seeing a
100 point car but as an owner of several in the past I found out once they
were in that condition they could not be driven and became "GARAGE
FURNITURE". Vintage racing and rallies have cured me of that. Some of the
most beautiful cars show up at the track,are driven to the max for several
days and are a joy to look at,feel,listen to and see at speed. That beats
sitting in a parking lot for two days and you dont have to dust the
trophies. Some of the vintage races have included a concours and you get
the best of both worlds.
   You mentioned that you own an XKC. Would love to hear about it. THat has
always been a goal.
   Several years ago someone from Australia started a register for special
bodied 120's Does anyone know if it was ever finished   JIM CANEDY

------------------------------

From: Ryan Border <rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 1996 13:03:37 -0700
Subject: RPM Woes

I'm coming in at the middle here, so apologies if I'm just repeating what
others have already said...

>Mike (I don't know which Mike, or what kind of Jag he has) wrote:
>The car performs beautifully when driven humanely, but when pressed,
>will not perform above 4000 rpm. At 4000, it coughs and sputters, and by
>4500, it is impossible to get one more

This is almost exactly the behavior my car exhibited after I had installed
my new motor.  Except in my case, the cut-off RPM was closer to 3500.  New
(Allison) ignition system, new coil, new plugs etc.  Rebuilt carbs.

The probelm turned out to be my carb needles.  I had unmodified carbs with
a modified (essentially missing) air intake.  Without the restrictive air
intake, the carbs were leaning out at higher RPM's, essentially fuel starving
the motor.  Increasing the fuel pressure seemed to help at first, but the
problem persisted.  Finally, I reneedled the carbs (from UM to UO needles)
and the difference was astounding.  No change at lower RPM's, but the motor
would now happily pull all the way to the red-line (and I'm quite sure beyond
so I have to be carefull). 

So, if you have anything but a stock air intake for the carbs (for all I know,
Mikes car is fuel injected) that you have, consider new needles.

Ryan.

------------------------------

From: robert dingli <r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU>
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 12:08:39 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: Xj6 temperature questions

James Stapleton asks,
> 
> 1.  What is the normal operating water temp ?
>      My car runs around 90 to 95 c.  Although
>      the manual says the green area of the gauge
>      is normal,  at 90c you can't touch the valve covers.

Assuming your '83 has an 88 deg thermostat (like my non stock '74) then
you should expect normal operation in the 89 to 92 deg C range, plus or
minus a few degrees due to the difference in sensors and gauges.  Yours
sounds normal.

It's also normal for the engine to be too hot to touch.  The oil is normally
hotter than the water and the aluminium conducts heat very well.

> 2.  What temp should the electric cooling fan come on ?
> 
> 3.  I'm going to be replacing my catalytic converter,
>      has anyone replaced this with a test pipe ?
>      If so what do you have to do with the 02 sensor ?

Sorry - can't help you here.

regards,
Robert
- -- 
    Robert Dingli   r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems    (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
     University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA 
**  he who dies with the most toys, wins  **

------------------------------

From: robert dingli <r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU>
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 12:03:01 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ6 SIII radiators

Pete Hamel asks,
> 
> Can anyone advise me on how easy it easy to change a radiator on a 
> series 3 XJ6 4.2 non air conditioning model.
> When I say easy I mean is it the kind of job I can do outside in the 
> street with a normal toolkit. It says in the manual that the bonnet 
> has to be removed, is this the case ?

I have removed the radiator in my '74 SII without removing the bonnet.
My fan was removed (actually, it removed itself and thus the need to remove
and repair the radiator) and then the cowling.  It's handy to have a helper
to lift the radiator up and out.

regards,
Robert

- -- 
    Robert Dingli   r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems    (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
     University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA 
**  he who dies with the most toys, wins  **

------------------------------

From: robert dingli <r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU>
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 12:18:55 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: Core Dump: Vintage racing an XK-120.

Last September, Nida and I had the pleasure of visiting Lawrence Buja,
Bob Grossman, their families, friends and pets.

I have very vivid meories of Bob's XK120 sliding and squealing around the 
Steamboat Springs much to the delight of the crowd.

Bob gives a great account of roaring around the track amongst MB Gullwings
and Porches but failed to mention his David and Goliath duel with a Fiat
Bambino (they make Minis look large) who managed to stick to his tail for
at least one of the races.

Ah, those were the days,
Robert

- -- 
    Robert Dingli   r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems    (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
     University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA 
**  he who dies with the most toys, wins  **

------------------------------

From: robert dingli <r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU>
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 12:23:08 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: Copy of: XJ6 Problems

James Stapleton asks,
...
>  b.  With the rpm at 1000 shifting from park to
>      any gear sends a sudden knock from the rear end.
>       At first I thought it was a bad tranny mount but it seems
>      to jump at the differential. Could this be a tranny or diff.
>      problem or is it related to idle speed ??

I also suspect something loose in my '74 rear end.  My car is a manual
and there is definitely too much backlash in the drivetrain.  I suspect 
it may be in the rear suspension or diff mounts.  I have a single piece
tailshaft with good universals and the diff is very quiet.

Suggestions anyone?

Robert
- -- 
    Robert Dingli   r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems    (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
     University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA 
**  he who dies with the most toys, wins  **

------------------------------

From: "Robert Hyndman Jr." <bhyndman@niia.net>
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 1996 21:42:16 -0500
Subject: jag-lovers

Thanks to Nick and all who answered my questions concerning changing from
jag-lovers-digest to jag-lovers. I was in fact writing to the old address.
Bob
'52 MG-TD
'84 Dodge 600 Turbo Convertible
'87 XJ6 (soon)

------------------------------

From: robert dingli <r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU>
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 12:44:41 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: Fuel injection

Hello again,

sorry about all the posts this morning.  I got in after easter to find
almost 300 messages and since Jag-lovers is the highest priority ....

Anyway, Dan couldn't resist,

> OK, I can't resist it.

See I told you so.

> I've been lured into asking a fuel-injection question.
> 
> We have a special cold-start injector on the SIII XJ6 right?
> (only fired during cranking).

I beleive this injector is fired during cold cranking and immediately
afterwards governed by the thermotime switch (the forward most temperature
sender in the water rail).  The exact time is a function of temperature.

> Well why not simply fire the main injectors for a bit longer?
> Is the fuel volume required too high?

The volume of fuel required to start a car is in the order of 1-2% of the 
max fuel flow while running.  There is definitely enough flow capabilty
in the standard injectors to flood the engine under any conditions.

There are three reasons for using a cold start injector:
1) Early analogue ECUs were pretty basic and an easy way of adding extra
functions was to tack an almost separate module onto the existing system.
The thermotime switch operated cold start injector is so basic is could
even be tacked onto a carbied engine.

2) One of the reasons cold enrichment is required at all is due to
problems with fuel vapourisation (or lack thereof) at low temperatures.
An injector further upstream gives the fuel more time to mix with the air
and vapourise.  Better injector and control technology can overcome this
for most environments.

3) The manufacturer of the injection system can charge more for extra parts
when there are more sensors and actuators.  Personally, I prefer to keep
things simple and only use the bare minimum of sensors and injectors.

> (Dingli bait strictly intentional)

Thanks Dan,

Robert

- -- 
    Robert Dingli   r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems    (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
     University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA 
**  he who dies with the most toys, wins  **

------------------------------

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #33
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jag-lovers-digest         Thursday, 11 April 1996      Volume 02 : Number 034

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: slim@magicnet.net
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 00:07:22 -0400
Subject: diff....1987 siii

can't find anywhere in any of my books how to check oil/fluid in 
differential on 1987 siii sj6.

please post note with any info.  after reading about potential problems of 
even newer cars.....thought i'd better look in to it!

slim@magicnet.net

------------------------------

From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 96 01:47:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Copy of: XJ6 Problems

From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO  ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
*** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FC42
*** INTERNET ADDRESS  -  SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM  *****************
Subject: Re: Copy of: XJ6 Problems

 I have the same problem with regards to the thump coming from my
drive train. I have a fully rebuilt rear end and diff. However, I
noticed that when they put it all together, that the tailshaft had some
movement, probably 1/4 inch - 1/2 inch each way. Is this normal ? Or
should there be some shims that were supposed to be inserted to take
the 'play' out of the tailshaft ?  Mine is also a one piece tail shaft.
Is there a special type of uni joint that they should have used to
account for the off-centre angle that the tailshaft sits ? I'm starting
to think that the wobble i'm getting at high speeds in the steering
wheel is as a result of the tail shaft vibrating up through the gear-box
and into the front of the suspension/steering. Will know when I get a
wheel balance and alignment and replace front ball joints.(That will
give me a whole new undercarriage & drivetrain, including all
springs/bushes/shocks/tie rods/mounts etc.....if I still get a wobble or
vibration after all this, then I'll go ballistic...)

***************************************************************
***************************************************************
REGARDS.......Shane
SYDVM1(SHANEM)         SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM
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From: robert dingli <r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU>
Message-Id: <199604100223.MAA12954@mullian.ee.mu.OZ.AU>
Subject: Re: Copy of: XJ6 Problems
To: jag-lovers@sn.no (Jaguar Mail List)
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 12:23:08 +1000 (EST)
In-Reply-To: <960404031521_73303.2013_FHM40-1@CompuServe.COM> from "James
Stapleton" at Apr 3, 96 10:15:21 pm
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James Stapleton asks,
...
>  b.  With the rpm at 1000 shifting from park to
>      any gear sends a sudden knock from the rear end.
>       At first I thought it was a bad tranny mount but it seems
>      to jump at the differential. Could this be a tranny or diff.
>      problem or is it related to idle speed ??

I also suspect something loose in my '74 rear end.  My car is a manual
and there is definitely too much backlash in the drivetrain.  I suspect
it may be in the rear suspension or diff mounts.  I have a single piece
tailshaft with good universals and the diff is very quiet.

Suggestions anyone?

Robert
- --
    Robert Dingli   r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems    (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
     University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
**  he who dies with the most toys, wins  **

------------------------------

From: BSherw@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 10:24:51 -0400
Subject: Jaguar World magazine

Could someone please provide a subscription address for "Jaguar World"
magazine?  I'm particularly interested in the recent issue referrred to on
this list, concerned with buying a used XJ-S.  Thanks,
Brian Sherwood, '85 XJ6, shopping for XJ-S.

------------------------------

From: Jim Marsden <JMARSDEN@corel.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 09:06:57 -0600
Subject: 85 XJS with Dropped Valve Seat

Finally after two days of tugging and pulling spraying liquid wrench all
over I got the left head off my XJS last night. It had the famous tic tic tic
sound that would come and go in cylinder 6b. Compression read 0 lbs all
others were great.
My questions: Is the head rebuildable? It seems all messed up with valve
seat fragments implanted in the alumimum. The top of the piston is pited
also, but no damage to the cylinder bore, not even a ridge at 92K miles!
Is this going to happen again? Seems like its an overheat condition that
causes this. (I found the only receipt the PO left in the box was for a
radiator overhall and new thermostats!) I mean has the other head been
stressed where it will start loosing seats too?
Third question, I'm in Utah, anybody know of a good shop for rebuilding
heads or that has used heads?

Many thanks in advance,
Jim Marsden
85 Jag XJS
83 Mercedes 300D (For Sale)
90 F250
88 Suburban
JMARSDEN@Corel.com

------------------------------

From: Are Lorentsen <are@vinn.no>
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 96 18:13:00 PDT
Subject: O2-sensor measuring fresh air.

Hi!
My 82 XJ6 is an US-model and was therefore originally fitted with a 
catalyst. When taken to Norway in 1989, the catalyst was removed, and the 
exhaust-system was replaced with an european one (State regulations does not 
require catalysts on cars produced before 1989). I bought this car last year 
and to my surprise the O2-sensor was still there,  welded outside one of the 
exhaust pipes.

It is still placed like that, and I wonder what to do about it. Would I 
benefit from putting it back in again, and why?. I'll have to drill a hole 
in the exhaust pipe and have nut welded on to get it back in.

Fuel consumption is a bit high, is it likely to believe that measuring in 
outside air will lead to higher fuel consumption because the ECU is giving 
more fuel to burn all that oxygen?

I also have a problem with the sunroof. It opens up 10 cm and then it stops 
and won't go anyway like if a fuse is blown. After a while (a few minutes, I 
guess ) it is possible to close it again.

I will appreciate any input.

Are Lorentsen
Narvik, Norway
E-mail: are@vinn.no

------------------------------

From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 09:20:09 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Kirby does Denver.

Yesterday evening, the Denver area Jag-lovers members had the pleasure
of dinner with Kirby Palm and his lovely wife when they stopped in at
the monthly meeting of the Rocky Mountain Jaguar Club.  We had a
wonderful time chatting about Jaguars, the net, technology and chickens.

Kirby gave a brief presentation about his book and the club members were
stunned to hear someone talking about a Jaguar related product that
wasn't designed to separate them from their money.  The only regrets were
that they didn't have time to stay longer, they are really nice folks and
we're looking forward to the time when we can get together again.

- --

Also, we've been having mail router problems here for the past couple 
days.  If this msg makes it thru, I'll post up the final fund results 
this afternoon.

/\      Lawrence Buja           http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern/  
  \_][  southern@ncar.ucar.edu  National Center for Atmospheric Research
      \_________________________Boulder,_Colorado___80307-3000__________

------------------------------

From: Graham Watson <grahamw@microsoft.com>
Date: Tue, 9 Apr 1996 06:53:13 -0700
Subject: RE: '87 XJ6

I had the same problem. I took my car to a jag dealer, who looked at the
VIN (I think they are supposed to see the car!) and spoke to Jag. I had
the code later that day.

>----------
>From: 	Robert Hyndman Jr.[SMTP:bhyndman@niia.net]
>Sent: 	09 April 1996 05:11
>To: 	jag-lovers@sn.no
>Subject: 	'87 XJ6
>
>Hello all,
>  After many months of searching I believe I've found her! She's an '87
>XJ6
>with 54k, all summer miles. She looks as though she just rolled out of
>the
>show room, the product of a very meticulous, soon-to-be PO. 
>  Now the reason for thes posting. The radio did not work in this
>vehicle.
>The s-t-b PO tells me that the battery was out of the car for the
>winter,
>and that there is some kind of anti-theft code which must be entered
>before
>the radio will work. He told me he had the code written down somewhere
>but
>couldn't find it. I've never heard of this. Is this true or is this guy
>pulling my leg? At any rate the s-t-b PO reluctantly agreed to take the
>car
>to the dealer and get the code before I take possession of the car.
>  One other question. I have been trying to change from
>jag-lovers-digest to
>jag-lovers, I believe I've sent the right command to majordomo, but I
>keep
>getting (unsubscribe: unknown list 'jag-lovers-digest'), as a reply.
>The
>same thing happens when I try to subscribe to jag-lovers. If anyone can
>help
>with this problem it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
>Bob
>'52 MG-TD
>'84 Dodge 600 Turbo Convertible
>'87 XJ6 (soon)
>~:P
>
>

------------------------------

From: cci@intex.net (Reginald J. G. Heber)
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 11:26:27 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: jaguar head and block info

Hi folks,
Thanks to Dick White for providing the seed photos for a section on cylinder
head information.
The stamped and cast info are waiting for decoding by those of you out there
having the knowledge to share with the rest of us.
I hope many of you will also contribute color photos (or scanned images) of
different heads to add to the section until we have a full set.
I know that the color repesentation is not likely to be accurate (for the
many reasons mentioned in the section) so paint manufacturers product info
(for those heads which have been repainted and 'judged' to be
'original/authentic') would be useful for helping others replicate your results.
Dick also included some pictures of the block so that its stampings might be
decoded.
Your contribution of information and/or images will be appreciated.

BTW, my 140 FHC is rapidly approaching shock absorber 'deprivation' and I
can't find (one of the hazards of multiple moves)  my list of aftermarket
shocks for Jags. I know SPAX has them but I can't run JCNA Slalom using
'performance' shocks. 
Jon Heber cci@intex.net
JOASW
'55 140FHC, '77 XJ6C
AJCW 

------------------------------

From: cci@intex.net (Reginald J. G. Heber)
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 11:38:49 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: jaguar head & block info

Re the location of the' jag head and block' page, it would have helped if I
had told you all that its url is
http://www.intex.net/~cci/index.html.
Sorry about that gang.
Jon

------------------------------

From: DHarr13177@aol.com
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 16:34:37 -0400
Subject: E-type cylinder head volume

Anyone know how many cc's in the stock combustion chamber on a 4.2 1966 XKE ?

I am trying to figure my compression ratio with .020 oversize 8:1 pistons

Doug

------------------------------

From: Ron Miller <ron@thor.fc.hp.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 14:45:40 -0600
Subject: Intro

Hi,

The initial subscription to the list encourages an introduction so here it
is. 

Ron Miller, Ft. Collins Colo. Not currently a Jag owner. Too early to
tell if I'll be a Jag lover. My father bought my mother a '92 Jag XJ6
for their 40th anniversary. Dad has mentioned in passing that they might
replace it with another 3 yr old Jag in about 3 yrs and give the '92
to my wife and I. Hence I want to learn quite a lot more about the marque.
In its current condition, it's truly a luxurious automobile and has
much to be admired. But I won't be pleased with it if it's a maintenance
headache that will put my 15 year old jeep outside to sleep in the snow
during the winter.

ron@fc.hp.com

------------------------------

From: viadata@interramp.com (David Hurlston)
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 14:57:53 -0500
Subject: Haze on XJ40 headlights

I've been away from this excellent list for a few months and have missed
many postings.

Last time I was on the list, there was a brief discussion on film haze on
the headlights of the XJ40 (Mine is a '91 Sovereign).  I didn't get to see
if this was resolved.  One suggestion was that it was moisture, but that's
not the case.

I pulled one of the units but found it appears to be sealed with no way of
getting at the front lens.

Did I miss a magical means of removing the haze or am I stuck with it?

Thanks ... Dave

------------------------------

From: "Himes,John W." <jwh@dw.att.com>
Date: Tue, 09 Apr 96 22:49:00 PDT
Subject: Stock Alarm Systems

I am very sorry to hear about the problem you had with your window being 
smashed in and other products stolen. I had the same thing happen to me 
several years ago with a different car.  They broke in, took the stereo, 
ripped the speakers out of the doors and stole a bag that had lots of 
electronic stuff. ( I was going to school for electrical engineering and had 
an alarm system I made waiting to be graded before I installed it! )
 After reading some other postings on just how limiting the stock alarm 
system is ( Only goes off is the door is open ), I am very glad that my Jag 
did not have this kind of system.  I did have an alarm system installed.  It 
has a shock sensor that under mild hits or bump, gives a set of warning 
chirps.  If the car is hit hard, or a window is broken, or the alarm senses 
that the car is being jacked up, or door / trunk (bonnet ) is opened, the 
alarm goes off, lights flash.  Also while the alarm is engaged, the starter 
is cut off.  There is a valet switch you can use to turn the alarm off so it 
will not activate.  This switch is also used to turn off the alarm if you 
have the key, but the battery in the transmitter is dead.  This is all 
pretty standard stuff in current alarm systems.  I did re-locate my valet 
switch after the alarm was installed. It is not where most are located, 
making it much harder on a thief to get the car, yet accessible enough for 
me that is not an inconvenience to use if needed.

John Himes
88 XJ-S 92K miles ;-)

------------------------------

From: slim@magicnet.net
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 19:59:08 -0400
Subject: siii radiator removal

to:  pete hamell

i have replaced the radiator on my 87 siii xj6.  i guess it might be 
possible to remove the radiator with the bonnet on, but your back will get 
very tired and it seems too easy to damage the new radiator going in.  
better to take the bonnet off, lay it in the yard on a blanket.  if you can 
afford it, replace the thermostat, fan thermostat, belts and other cooling 
related items and verify all hoses for needing replacement.  

if you live in a hot climate and have no vehicle inspection requirements, 
consider locating an exhaust mechanic/converter abortionist and have the 
front catalyst removed, gutted and re-installed.

bottom line keep the engine cool and minimize the heat at the exhaust side 
of the cylinder head.

slim@magicnet.net

------------------------------

From: Ed Scripps <73200.2362@compuserve.com>
Date: 10 Apr 96 20:29:11 EDT
Subject: Sagging Jag

Hi group,

My '66 'E' Type dresses left or in other words the left side(driver's) is lower
than the right when standing still with no driver or passenger.

Measuring wheel well height the left side is about an inch lower that the right
with the left rear being about 1 1/8" lower.

Any ideas what might be wrong? Springs? Any thoughts on how to proceed?

Thanks,
- -Ed-

------------------------------

From: robert dingli <r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 11:12:23 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: E-type cylinder head volume

Doug asks,
> 
> Anyone know how many cc's in the stock combustion chamber on a 4.2 1966 XKE ?
> 
> I am trying to figure my compression ratio with .020 oversize 8:1 pistons

I think there was a discussion about this a few weeks back.  If you simply
want the resulting CR due to the overbore then there is very little
difference.  You will have a much greater change due to any head work that
would have resurfaced the head.

Now for some calcs...  (warning - the following is extremely boring)

Bore * Stroke = 3.625 x 4.173" (standard, I believe)
              = 92.075 x 105.9942 mm
              -> swept volume = 4234.544 cc total
to calc clearance volume (CV) based on swept volume and CR 
              (4234.544 + CV) / CV = 8
              CV = 604.93 cc total or 100.82 cc for each cylinder

Using this clearance vol and 0.020" overbore
              swept volume = 4281.399 cc
              (4281.399 + 604.93) / 604.93 = 8.0775 ie very little difference

If the head had 0.5mm skimmed off, the clearance volume would be reduced by
              (92.075 / 2) ^2 * PI * 0.5 /1000 = 3.329 cc per pot
              total clearance volume = 584.94 cc
resulting in a compression ratio of
              (4234.544 + 584.94) / 584.94 = 8.24
I'm not sure what a typical head resurface takes off the head, but since
my head has been skimmed at least 3 times, the 8:1 pistons that I have
probably give a compression ratio near 9:1.

I knew that I drank too much coffee this morning,
Robert  :-)

- -- 
    Robert Dingli   r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems    (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
     University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA 
**  he who dies with the most toys, wins  **

------------------------------

From: jamesc@oasis.novia.net (jc)
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 21:15:45 -0500
Subject: XK originality

Agree with great confidence about the following:
Manifold-No enamel on studs
Bonnet Bracing-no paint
Fan Blade- Painted to just past the rivets then metallic
150 Heater motor-should have print on top
Regards
JIM CANEDY

------------------------------

From: Randy Wilson <randy@taylor.infi.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 22:49:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: E-type cylinder head volume

>
>
>Doug asks,
>> 
>> Anyone know how many cc's in the stock combustion chamber on a 4.2 1966 XKE ?
>> 
>> I am trying to figure my compression ratio with .020 oversize 8:1 pistons
>
>I think there was a discussion about this a few weeks back.  If you simply
>want the resulting CR due to the overbore then there is very little
>difference.  You will have a much greater change due to any head work that
>would have resurfaced the head.

Though I have have concrete data on this, I would guess that taking a 8.00
CR ratio engine, and overboring it .0x0, you will end up with a compression
ratio of 8.00. This, of course, assumes perfect production; no slop. 

My thinking on this is that the piston manufacterer, in designing an
overbore piston, will take the increase of swept volume in to account, and
adjust the installed piston height to compensate (pin to crown height). 
Bassed on Robert's numbers, I come up with a .020 overbore requiring the
piston crown lowered 0.178 mm (.007") to get the appropriate combustion
chamber volume. Not much of a change.

>If the head had 0.5mm skimmed off, the clearance volume would be reduced by
>              (92.075 / 2) ^2 * PI * 0.5 /1000 = 3.329 cc per pot
>              total clearance volume = 584.94 cc
>resulting in a compression ratio of
>              (4234.544 + 584.94) / 584.94 = 8.24
>I'm not sure what a typical head resurface takes off the head, but since
>my head has been skimmed at least 3 times, the 8:1 pistons that I have
>probably give a compression ratio near 9:1.

Typical "trueing" cuts end up being in the .1 to .2 mm range; usually closer to
.1 mm. A head with .5 mm warpage gets tossed out, or put in the oven and
straightened. That much warpage will cause severe misalignment of the cam
bearing saddles. 

This is not to say that you can't cut .5 mm off of a head just for the joy of
it. I cut 2mm off my Fiat head (12.1:1, on 93 octane PON). :>

   Randy K. Wilson
     randy@taylor.infi.net

------------------------------

From: Randy Wilson <randy@taylor.infi.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 22:54:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: siii radiator removal

>
>i have replaced the radiator on my 87 siii xj6.  i guess it might be 
>possible to remove the radiator with the bonnet on, but your back will get 
>very tired and it seems too easy to damage the new radiator going in.  
>better to take the bonnet off, lay it in the yard on a blanket.  if you can 
>afford it, replace the thermostat, fan thermostat, belts and other cooling 
>related items and verify all hoses for needing replacement.  

When I pull S III radiators, I pull the radiator. I'm not interested in
the bonnet, the fan, or the fan shroud, so they stay put. There are only
two tricks. You needd to disconnect the bonnet stay and push it further
open (carefully), and it takes two people to lift the radiator out without
damaging it or the a/c evap. In my opinion, there is less risk of 
damaging something this way than there is damaging the paint removing and
refitting the bonnet.

   Randy K. Wilson
     randy@taylor.infi.net

------------------------------

From: jamesc@oasis.novia.net (jc)
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 21:30:38 -0500
Subject: LIST for head numbers

Could not find http://www.intex.net/"cci/index.html for info about casting
numbers. Please repost Thanks Jim Canedy

------------------------------

From: Hunt Dabney <hdabney@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 20:00:56 -0700
Subject: Re: 85 XJS with Dropped Valve Seat

Jim-
This happened to me. They were able to repair the head and rebuild it, and
I'm about 50K miles down the road since with no problems ('85 XJ6, 4.2L).
Likewise, piston and cylindar in good shape.
Good luck!
Hunt

At 09:06 AM 4/10/96 -0600, Jim Marsden wrote:
>Finally after two days of tugging and pulling spraying liquid wrench all
>over I got the left head off my XJS last night. It had the famous tic tic tic
>sound that would come and go in cylinder 6b. Compression read 0 lbs all
>others were great.
>My questions: Is the head rebuildable? It seems all messed up with valve
>seat fragments implanted in the alumimum. The top of the piston is pited
>also, but no damage to the cylinder bore, not even a ridge at 92K miles!
>Is this going to happen again? Seems like its an overheat condition that
>causes this. (I found the only receipt the PO left in the box was for a
>radiator overhall and new thermostats!) I mean has the other head been
>stressed where it will start loosing seats too?
>Third question, I'm in Utah, anybody know of a good shop for rebuilding
>heads or that has used heads?
>
>Many thanks in advance,
>Jim Marsden
>85 Jag XJS
>83 Mercedes 300D (For Sale)
>90 F250
>88 Suburban
>JMARSDEN@Corel.com
>
>

------------------------------

From: DHarr13177@aol.com
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 02:52:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Sagging Jag

the torsion bar has lost tension . It can be reset as per the shop manual.
The question is whether additional preload needs to be put in also, and how
much, so both sides of the car are equal. Does anyone know how much the side
is lifted if , say, an additional 1/8 inch preload is set ?  Cars with
airconditioning ( heavier) were set with longer setting gauges by a small
amount.

Doug

------------------------------

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #34
*******************************

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jag-lovers-digest          Friday, 12 April 1996       Volume 02 : Number 035

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Martin Robert Fooks, WWIS" <mfooks@postiss.netherlands.attgis.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 96 13:58:00 PDT
Subject: Jaguar World

Hello again all,

The address of Jaguar World in England is at follows :

Kelsey Publishing
Kelsey House
77 High St.
Beckenham
Kent
England
BR3 1AN

Tel : +44 181 658 3531
Fax : +44 181 650 8035

I think you will find them to be very helpful people.

 --------------------------------------------------------------------------  
 -----------
Martin R. Fooks (Martin.Fooks@Netherlands.NCR.COM)
    (Martin_Fooks@MSN.COM)
Web Pages :http://www.cris.com/~Mrfooks/
Tel : +31 20 651 2698/ +31 20 41 91 731

------------------------------

From: Elgsweep@aol.com
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 09:06:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Jaguar World Magazine

In a message dated 96-04-11 03:13:40 EDT, you write:

>Could someone please provide a subscription address for "Jaguar World"
>magazine?

Contact:

Kelsey Publications Ltd
Kelsey House
77 High St
Beckenham, Kent  BR3 1AN

Tel:: 0181-658-3531
Fax: 0181-650-8035

Dennis Murphy
Geneva, IL
1952 XK 120
1990 XJ-S

------------------------------

From: gvbjr@pluto.skyweb.net (gvb)
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 13:37:50 GMT
Subject: [none]

I am replacing the interior of my 1985 Jaguar XJ6. When I began removing the
carpeting from around the center console I noticed some kind of oil leaking
down inside of the car. What a mess. I am not currently losing any fluid
(oil or transmissioin) but I know that the heads were rebuilt a few thousand
miles before I purchased the car in January of this year. Has anyone run
into this problem before. Any ideas would be a help.

Regards,

George Buonanno
1985 XJ6

------------------------------

From: charles daly <cdaly@passport.ca>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 09:54:18 +0100
Subject: Sources around Buffalo, NY

Hi all,
I am travelling to Buffalo, NY in a week or two and am
looking for a source for jag parts in that area. Or any 
other jag sites (or "sights").
Anybody know of any?
I won't be travelling in my E-Type (still can't find
snow tires, heated soft-top, etc!)  
Also;
Any E-Type owners in Ontario, Canada on this
list?
Thanks, as usual,
Charles Daly, Toronto
'62 E-Type, Series 1, ots

------------------------------

From: John Elmgreen <100353.1733@compuserve.com>
Date: 11 Apr 96 10:05:54 EDT
Subject: Jag factory change, 1950

	Jamie Fiffles asked about the factory change to Browns Lane.  The best
info I have is from Andrew White's book, page 139.  The move took place over
about a 2 year period, announced in Oct 1950 and apparently completed aboput Nov
1952.  He says that by autumn 1951 the tool room, road test and machine shop
were installed, and the last thing to be moved was the paint shop.  Maybe this
tied in with the introduction of the new type paint (enamel I think) c late 52.
I have never heard of any particular features of XKs being related to this move.
The impression I get (from the books) is that it was done with minimal
disruption to production processes.
	Re concours judging underneath cars - I cannot recall if I mentioned it
before, but it was rather an unnerving experience lying under several of the
concours XKs gazing up at the sump and chassis - which had mirror finishes (I
could literally see my face etc), better than any new (robot painted, orange
peel) current car.  I can understand why there is resistance to judging
underneath cars - just how extreme do you go?  But it certainly results in some
amazing preparation of the XKs.  Incidentally, the whole event was won by an
XK140 DHC (ex USA as a wreck years ago), 2nd a similar ex LHD XK150 S OTS, 3rd
an E type.  
	Some other points:  
	Would any of you care to drop a line saying how the carpet heel pads were
originally on your cars (if you know). e.g. leather? one piece or two (per
side)? Hardura? stitched in a rectangle around the edges only?  or with a cross
as well?  anything under the leather (e.g. stiff cardboard)?  what size exactly?
I appreciate that few will be able to respond, given that the original carpets
are rarely retained.  Also, any XK150 owners out there with curly (loop pile)
carpet originally?
	Fog/driving lights: I am told that these have the manufacture date
stamped on them at the back (may need removal to find).  Anyone noticed this?  
	Head colour on an XK150 3.8:  said to be quite a dark blue.  Comments?
Regards,  John Elmgreen

------------------------------

From: "Donald L. Sime" <103234.320@compuserve.com>
Date: 11 Apr 96 10:48:29 EDT
Subject: Xk150 interior

Hi to all,

I am installing a new interior in my 58 XK150 FHC. I am to the point of putting
in the center arm rest, i. e.  the padded part that lies between the two seats.
Can anyone tell me how that piece is fastened to the transmission tunnel?  The
leather is monted on a thin board/cardboard material which then folds down
around the tunnel. Are there snaps that hold it there?  If so, I don't have any
evedince of there being any for my previous piece (my old part must have got up
and walked away because I can't find it to make a comparison).  I suppose that
the alternative is that it is merely held in place by the seats, but that seems
unlikely.

I would appreciate any advice.

Regards,
Don Sime

------------------------------

From: "PHILIP B. GRANT" <pgrant@balink.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 96 11:52:13 EST
Subject: XJ-12 Headliner Repair?

     (A)I'm a new member to the list w/ a '78 XJ-12 that has a sagging 
     headliner. (Florida car and heat seems to have zapped it.) Other than 
     replacement any thoughts on a repair that would involve injecting 
     contact or other fabric adhesive between fabric and roof.
     Or do I bite the bullet and install new headliner??

     (B) Best mail-order source of factory manual for Series II XJ-12.

     Thanks and cheers,

     Phil Grant

------------------------------

From: Chris Howard <christopher@netmanage.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 96 09:07:11 GST
Subject: TEST

TEST, please ignore.

*************************************************

Christopher Howard 
Supervisor, Technical Support Group
NetManage, INC.             email me at:
10725 DeAnza Blvd.      <christopher@netmanage.com>
Cupertino, CA 95014         our homepage:
                        <www.netmanage.com>
408/973-8181 
408/973-8272 fax        Home of the Chameleon !!

*************************************************

------------------------------

From: "J.W. Beckmeyer" <73131.3076@compuserve.com>
Date: 11 Apr 96 12:05:58 EDT
Subject: RE:Haze on XJ40 headlights

David Hurlston wrote:

>>Last time I was on the list, there was a brief discussion on
>>film haze on the headlights of the XJ40 (Mine is a '91
>>Sovereign).  I didn't get to see if this was resolved.  One
>>suggestion was that it was moisture, but that's not the case.

>>I pulled one of the units but found it appears to be sealed
>>with no way of getting at the front lens.

>>Did I miss a magical means of removing the haze or am I stuck
>>with it? 

David,

I had the hazy lights on my 90 Sovereign.

In my case, the film on the inside of the lens was *not* moisture.  There were
no net.list.opinions given that provided a satisfactory solution, so I had to
find my own.  Your options are:

1.  Clean the inside of the lens, or

2.  Buy new lamps. or,

3.  Live with it.

You are correct in stating that the units are sealed and have no provision for
cleaning off the lens, except for the hole in which the bulb is seated.  I tried
this and it was pretty much a waste of time.  

The only other options open to me were either replace both sides...(very
expensive!!) or try to open up the unit so as to get to the lens and clean it.
I was able to successfully open it up, clean it and reseal it...that was six
months ago and so far the haze has not reappeared nor have the lights fallen
apart. :-)

The way I looked at the situation, if I botched the job I would have to buy a
new lamp anyway, so what the hell...

If you're feeling brave, let me know and I'll email instructions.  I can't
guarantee results, however...

Best regards,
Jim Beckmeyer    Union CIty, MI USA
e-mail: 73131.3076@compuserve.com
90 Jaguar XJ-40-Sovereign
60 Jaguar MK II

------------------------------

From: ClaytB3@aol.com
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 12:51:47 -0400
Subject: Re: XJ-12 Headliner Repair?

The headliner in my XJ-S was in bad shape and sagging in parts so I had the
bright idea of fixing it myself. I removed the fiberglass headliner insert
and reattached some foam and fabric with 3M spray adhesive. It looked great
all winter long! A few weeks ago, we had some decent weather here in PA so I
had the car outside all day. Just that small amount of heat was enough to
completely undo all the adhesive, leaving the fabric and foam hanging from
the headliner.
I think my methods were sound, now I just need to find a better adhesive. Any
ideas on this one are appreciated.

Clayton Betlyon
85 XJ-S H.E.

------------------------------

From: Brian Jamieson <bjamie@jannock.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 13:37:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Sources around Buffalo, NY

>Any E-Type owners in Ontario, Canada on this
>list?

Yep - 73 E Type - located in Oakville & work in Toronto. 

In my spare time I am organising the Ontario Jag Owners Concours at Appleby
College in June - excellent place to see lots of great E Types.

Brian Jamieson   

------------------------------

From: Dan Graves <dan@fubar.rose.hp.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 10:58:32 PDT
Subject: Long Beach Grand Prix...

content-type:text/plain;charset=us-ascii
mime-version:1.0

Anybody going to the Long Beach Grand Prix this weekend?  I think I might be
able to make it down there (as a guest of Scott Pruett!) and was wondering
if anyone else on the list was planning on going.

Dan

------------------------------

From: Roly Alcock <roly@redac.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 19:10:32 +0100 (BST)
Subject: Triple whammy?

One of those weeks I suppose...

1. My S3 XJ6 needed 4 tyres, it is now shod with Falken ( 65 pounds a
corner )

2. The car then decided that it would be good fun to re-enact the Titanic
disaster, and proceded to scrape down the side of a lorry leaving a nice
long gouge from front wing thru to back wing.

3. Landlord of my local pub who had a pristine XJ40, '87, 80k miles, full
main dealer service history, maintained without cost being a consideration.
Decided to partex it for a Range Rover. He was given 2500 pounds for the car.
"Sorry" he said "I never thought that you might want it"

Ah well......................

- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Roly Alcock, (Postmaster)       Principal Systems Engineer
Redac Systems Ltd,              Tel: 01684 294161 ext. 211
Zuken-Redac Group Limited,      Fax: 01684 298902
Green Lane,                     
Tewkesbury,                     E-mail: roly@redac.co.uk
Gloucestershire, GL20 8HE, UK   Web: http://www.redac.co.uk
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 15:03:08 -0400
Subject: Re: XJ-12 Headliner Repair?

At 11:52 AM 4/11/96 EST, PHILIP B. GRANT wrote:
>     
>     (A)I'm a new member to the list w/ a '78 XJ-12 that has a sagging 
>     headliner. (Florida car and heat seems to have zapped it.) Other than 
>     replacement any thoughts on a repair that would involve injecting 
>     contact or other fabric adhesive between fabric and roof.
>     Or do I bite the bullet and install new headliner??
>     

My XJ-S had this problem; headliner replaced by PO.  My buddies XJ-S also
had a sagging headliner (couldn't see out rear view mirror), and he removed
it and somehow glued it, possibly using spray glue (art supply store).
Mine, being new, looks better but his repair turned out quite well.

Regards,

John

------------------------------

From: "PHILIP B. GRANT" <pgrant@balink.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 96 15:40:17 EST
Subject: Parts Sources--(Series 2 Xj-12}

     RE:'78 XJ-12 sedan

     I'm a new member to the list living in {northern} Virginia (USA) 
     looking for recommendation on used and new parts supply suggestions 
     from members.

     (A) Salvage yards in MD,PA,VA; NY and New England that people may have 
     had luck with and can recommend

     (B) Mail order sources.

     Primarily interested in mechanical; consummables parts etc.

     Thanks much,

     Phil Grant

------------------------------

From: "Paul Hibbs" <paul_hibbs@macmail.git.gulfaero.com>
Date: 11 Apr 1996 15:42:18 -0500
Subject: Another newbie

Introduction:
I'm a structural aircraft designer, with a carload of growing children.  Hence
my car restoration/repair philosophy...it's gotta be tough, and durable, and I
can only afford the parts.  I do all the labor or it doesn't get done.  My
present affair is with a 1975 XJ12L,  a 3 years ongoing project.  I did cough
up the cash for a beautiful base coat/clear coat dark green paint job.  But
(here goes nothing) I bought it with a small-block chevy engine already
installed (poorly).  So far I've un-installed the engine and re-done it to my
tastes; repaired floorboard rust, repaired leathers, repaired electrical
switches and wiring, etc.  The exterior is very close to perfect, the interior
only needs door panels. 
Contributions:
oXJ series II front wheel grease seals:  Victor part #66723 -or- Federal Mogul
part #224663.  
oXJ series II front Anti-sway bar bushing kit (complete with the vertical
spacer links)  Parts-Master #2-K5252  (made for a chevy truck but works fine,
and it's cheeep)
oXJ series II door lock soleniods- mine had all suffered core meltdown.  I am
retrofitting aftermarket motor-driven actuators.  They won't slam the linkage
like the original solenoids (my door lock cylinders had wallowed out the door
skin)  Send me a note for detailed minutia. 
QUESTIONS:
I want to rebuild my differential.  It just started whining.  I have a set of
explicit instructions from a jag factory manual.  But I need help! 
ois this task far beyond the capabilities of an educated shadetree mechanic
(like myself)?
owhere is a good source for the "crush" sleeves (1 pinion and 2 output shaft)?
oWhat the devil is the height of the jag service tool that I'm supposed to use
to zero my dial indicator, prior to checking the pinion shim stack height (+/-
spec is etched on the pinion face)?
oIs anyone making/selling XJ series II rear tail-light lenses?
Unrelated:
past stuff: 60 Austin-Healey 3000 BN7 (w/307 small block)
                60 Frogeye
                66 MGB
                67 MGB-GT
present stuff:  85 Volvo 740 turbo wagon
                        85 GMC van (give me a break, its to haul the kids)
                       Trek tandem road-bike (exercise with the kids)
                       73 Yamaha 650 (get away from the kids)
P.S.  I am thoroughly enjoying the Jag-lovers-digest,  a wonderful resource.  
Paul
Paul_Hibbs.Engineering@macmail.eng.gulfaero.com

------------------------------

From: LLoyd <3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@cmsa.berkeley.edu>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 96 13:09:51 PDT
Subject: headliner repair

  Repairing heaadliners is similar to the consept of being "kinda pregnent".
  "I'm sort of a virgin...".  "Well, the car runs almost perfect...", you get
the idea.
  The fabric is originally glued to the roof of the car. Over time, with the
aid of heat, wind and perhaps kids, it gets pulled down and sags. The glue and
the part of the fabric held by the glue stays on top. So now you try to glue
the rest back up on to the fabric already on the top. Make sence?
  So what happens? Your new glue (sprayed works best) glues the fabric up onto
the old, rotting, deteriorated fabric held on by the original glue. Before
long, the material seperates again, another layer pulls apart, leaving some
of the new glue on top, some on bottom, and the headliner sagging again. The
only thing accomplished is that there is more mess to clean off before you can
glue the new headliner up. Yes, be sure to remove ALL the old glue and old
material before gluing the new one on.

   "Do it to me one more time...."    LLoyd

------------------------------

From: LLoyd <3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@cmsa.berkeley.edu>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 96 13:23:39 PDT
Subject: Mk II question

  I'm looking at Mk II's with standard trannies. Do they come with air cond-
itioning and standard tranny's??  I understand the 3.8S does not.

  LLoyd bummer days?!

  BTW, anyone know of a Mk II for sale w/standard tranny & air??

 * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
   Only through the use of the Doppler effect
   can I tell if I'm coming or going.        LLoyd 1995
 * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
                LLoyd     BITNET  3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@CMSA.BERKELEY.EDU
                          DDN     3030P@VM1.CC.NPS.NAVY.MIL
                     '71 XKE ots  (recently cut in half)
                     Live person  (408) 656-3793
      Naval Postgrad School code 01b1 Monterey, Ca.  93943    USA

------------------------------

From: Hunt Dabney <hdabney@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 13:35:33 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ-12 Headliner Repair?

Phil-
I went through this. Tried spraying 3M contact adhesive between the liner
and the roof. The problem is, the foam liner under the headliner
disentigrates, so glueing only lasts a day or so. I had a new headliner put
in, cost about $300 US, got a correct fabric in a match to my upholstery,
instead of gray. It looks *really* nice - I was glad the idiot detailer
ruined it, once the new one was in! I've bought factory manuals from XK's
Unlimited with good success.
Hunt

At 11:52 AM 4/11/96 EST, PHILIP B. GRANT wrote:
>     
>     (A)I'm a new member to the list w/ a '78 XJ-12 that has a sagging 
>     headliner. (Florida car and heat seems to have zapped it.) Other than 
>     replacement any thoughts on a repair that would involve injecting 
>     contact or other fabric adhesive between fabric and roof.
>     Or do I bite the bullet and install new headliner??
>     
>     (B) Best mail-order source of factory manual for Series II XJ-12.
>     
>     Thanks and cheers,
>     
>     Phil Grant
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 23:22:09 +0000
Subject: [JagWeb] Update 12 April 1996

Just a few bits and pieces:

* The mailing-list archive is current up to the 5th April

* The guestbook has been updated for the first time in
  about 4 weeks, mainly due to all the folks asking me
  to get it done ;-)

* The MkVII/MKVIII/MKIX-section of the model guides has
  been updated with new images and text. Thanks to Aldert
  Bruinsma, Netherlands

* A new link or two in the list of links

And thats about all.

Nick
- -- 
<<<  Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC  >>>     
<<<       Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto        >>> 
>>> The JagWeb  http://www.sn.no/~nick/jaguar.html <<<

------------------------------

From: John McDonagh <MCDONAGJ@tui.lincoln.ac.nz>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 09:50:46 +1200
Subject: Re: Mk II question

Re Air conditioning - I have never seen a Mk II with air (except for 
Modern rebuilds eg Beechan/Vicarage) and suspect this may have been a 
dealer fitted option in the USA only?
John McDonagh
Department of Accounting Finance and Property Studies
Lincoln University
Christchurch
New Zealand

------------------------------

From: Dan Graves <dan@fubar.rose.hp.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 15:20:28 PDT
Subject: Re:  headliner repair

content-type:text/plain;charset=us-ascii
mime-version:1.0

>  The fabric is originally glued to the roof of the car. Over time, with 
> the aid of heat, wind and perhaps kids, it gets pulled down and sags. 
> The glue and the part of the fabric held by the glue stays on top. 
>    ... stuff deleted ...

  I agree with the jist of what LLoyd has to say with a few exceptions.  This
  is based on my experiences so you've been warned.  8-)  What deteriorates
  is the foam that the fabric is bonded to.  Headliner material (late model
  style) comes as fabric bonded to a thin layer of foam.  Over time the foam
  deteriorates and the fabric sags.  If you try to reattach the existing
  fabric/foam to itself it just pulls the foam apart again.  The only way
  to guarantee a fix is to replace it.  Usually, there's a shell made out of
  fiberboard or something similar that attaches to the roof of the car.  Once
  this shell is taken out of the car its fairly easy to replace the headliner.
  Make sure you get a spray glue that is PERMANENT and high heat resistant
  and like LLoyd said make sure the surface is cleaned really well before
  applying the glue/fabric.  I've done it on two cars now and if I can do it
  most anyone can!  8-)

  Dan

------------------------------

From: Jan Wikstroem <Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au>
Date: 12 Apr 96 12:04:50 
Subject: Re: XJ-12 Headliner Repair?

I had a similar problem with Styrofoam insulation stuck to the tin roof of my 
house (which gets hot enough to raise blisters here in sunny Sydney). I got 
good results with neutral cure roofing silicon sealant, but the insulation 
needs to be held in place for at least 12 hours while the silicon cures. I used 
double-sided sticky picture mounts for this.
- -Jan

------------------------------

From: robert dingli <r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU>
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 12:10:49 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Oz/NZ Jag-list fund

Greetings everyone,

I am pleased to announce that the local Jag-list contributions have
hit the AUD$100 mark.  Late next week I will finalise the collection
post the results to Nick.  

Contributions have been received from the following people:
Tony Watts, Jan Wikstroem, John McDonagh, Scott Fisher and myself.

If anyone else has posted or intends to post anything further, could
you please let me know via email.  I'd like to collect a few more
photos, so if anyone would like to send them to me, I post them to
Nick along with our contribution.

Thanks everyone,
Robert

postal address:  PO Box 532 Ringwood, 3134, Vic, Australia
- -- 
    Robert Dingli   r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems    (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
     University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA 
**  he who dies with the most toys, wins  **

------------------------------

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #35
*******************************

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jag-lovers-digest         Saturday, 13 April 1996      Volume 02 : Number 036

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: jamesc@oasis.novia.net (jc)
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 21:13:01 -0500
Subject: XK originality

Rob Reilly mentioned that the undersurface of his bonnet was black. This
was correct on the early 120s. I do not know the cut off date or number.
I was curious about the changeover from studless cam covers and aluminum cast
fans. My racer has both as well as the early engine mount that bolts to the
timing chain cover. It has original chassis and engine numbers confirmed by

Jaguar. chassis#671812 engine#W4049-8 These dont seem to be extremely
early numbers. Any ideas? JIM CANEDY

------------------------------

From: Craig Tiano <ctiano@voicenet.com>
Date: Thu, 11 Apr 1996 23:27:15 -0400
Subject: Re: headliner repair

>  The fabric is originally glued to the roof of the car. Over time, with the
>aid of heat, wind and perhaps kids, it gets pulled down and sags. The glue and
>the part of the fabric held by the glue stays on top. So now you try to glue
>the rest back up on to the fabric already on the top. Make sence?

In most of the older cars, the roof fabric is glued to a pad, which is then
glued to the roof. Normally the problem is that the pad has fallen away from
the roof because the old glue baked itself into oblivion from sitting the
car in the sun. OR the adhesive fell off the rusting interior of the roof
(just ask any Mk 7-9 owner about those metal sunroofs!). In fact, the
only proper way to correct the problem is to rip out the old stuff, wire
brush the interior of the roof to remove the old glue and any rust, repaint
if necessary, and contact adhesive the new material in place.

I just finished doing my 2 Daimlers (70 and 79) and believe me, this was NOT
a fun part of the restoration, as both had rust on the roof interior.

Craig
Craig Tiano
- -------------------------------------------
homepage: http://www.voicenet.com/~ctiano
email: ctiano@voicenet.com
- -------------------------------------------
American Eskimo Dogs, Photography,
Antique Cars, HTML/CGI/Datacomm guru

From: BMack7316@aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 00:43:41 -0400
Subject: SIII Audio Nirvana

Gentlemen:

This is not for the $ faint of heart. I have reached nirvana. For those of
you unfamiliar with a past thread on Jag sedan sound systems, I’ll sumarize:
We want to hear heaven without having to actually go there yet!

I replaced my Kenwood 645 amp with a 745, which pushes 160 clean watts into
the cabin. The 100 watt bass tube in the trunk has been adjusted to max
sensitivity at the lowest frequency (-80 Hz) The amp crossover settings have
been tuned accordingly.

I’ve replaced the front speakers (formerly Infinitys) with a hand-made
variety from “Oz.” They cost $325.00 a pair. UNBELIEVABLE!!! The tweeters
are mounted forward on the doors at stomach level. I’m going to ditch the
Infinitys in the rear for Oz as soon as possible – the Oz speakers sound
that good!

I’ve heard some sound systems in my day, but none quite like this. Half of
the $3000 cost comes from the source hardware – now that I’ve finally spent
some time and money paying attention to the output, Nirvana has been reached!

Brad Mack
“If I must spend three hours of every day in my Jag, I’m gonna enjoy it!”

From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@compuserve.com
Date: 12 Apr 96 08:48:26 EDT
Subject: XK150 centre trim

Don Sime asked how the centre trim panel (between the seats) is attached.

First, there are no “snaps”. Second, the panel is attached with 4 standard self
tappers and cup washers. I think they are screwed through to the floor,
possibly through 2 tabs each side, but I just cannot get out to my car at the
moment. Perhaps someone else can confirm. Regards, John Elmgreen

From: BSherw@aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 09:59:40 -0400
Subject: [none]

esponded to my query on “Jaguar World” magazine/XJ-S
literature. While checking these leads, I found the following Web address
for “Bookspeed- Jaguar Books”, for those of you who don’t already have it:
http://w3.win-uk.net/cars/bks_welj.htm Thanks again,
Brian Sherwood

From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 10:05:42 -0400
Subject: Re: SIII Audio Nirvana

At 12:43 AM 4/12/96 -0400, BMack7316@aol.com wrote:

Gentlemen:

This is not for the $ faint of heart. I have reached nirvana. For those of
you unfamiliar with a past thread on Jag sedan sound systems, I’ll sumarize:
We want to hear heaven without having to actually go there yet!

I replaced my Kenwood 645 amp with a 745, which pushes 160 clean watts into
the cabin. The 100 watt bass tube in the trunk has been adjusted to max
sensitivity at the lowest frequency (-80 Hz) The amp crossover settings have
been tuned accordingly.

I’ve replaced the front speakers (formerly Infinitys) with a hand-made
variety from “Oz.” They cost $325.00 a pair. UNBELIEVABLE!!! The tweeters
are mounted forward on the doors at stomach level. I’m going to ditch the
Infinitys in the rear for Oz as soon as possible – the Oz speakers sound
that good!

I’ve heard some sound systems in my day, but none quite like this. Half of
the $3000 cost comes from the source hardware – now that I’ve finally spent
some time and money paying attention to the output, Nirvana has been reached!

Brad Mack
“If I must spend three hours of every day in my Jag, I’m gonna enjoy it!”

Sounds like an amazing system – now here’s the conterpoint.

The stereo in my XJ-S has been out because of other work I’m doing on the
car. On a recent long business trip, I took along a Walkman and pair of
powered speakers. Piled this all on the passenger seat so I could listen to
some tapes en route.

Now if you think that this is leading to some kind of “…and it sounds just
as good…” drivel, you’re mistaken.

Before playing the tapes, I scanned local stations in search of something
interesting. Nothing on FM. What the heck, try AM.

Well, the AM receiver in this thing picked up nothing than a signal from, I
presume, the electronic ignition. It was the sweetest sounding engine noise
you can imagine. Sounded like an Indy car running down a straight.

So, of course, I a bit of time on this trip listening to this music. The
best was when running up through the gears and decelerating.

Too bad our Jags insulate us so from these wonderful sounds. I’ve said it
before – there is nothing like a twelve!

Regards,

John

From: mike_israel@Merck.Com (Mike Israel)
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 10:30 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Bye Bye XJ6

Greetings All,

Well, after months of debating “should I or shouldn’t I”, I have finally
traded in my '86 XJ6. My emotions on seeing it go are mixed.

I owned the vehicle for just over three years. I must say it has been both
the greatest and the worst car I have ever owned. The ride, the look and
the “soul” of the vehicle were beyond reproach and I swore I would never own
anything else. Unfortunately, the cost of ownership (repairs) easily
exceeded the combined costs of my three prior vehicles. The only thing I
can say is that is probably in much better mechanical shape today than it
was the day I bought it. I simply hit the point of not wanting to put any
more $$$ into it.

From my own experiences I will pass on some oft repeated words of advice for
future Jag owners.

Buy the very best Jag you can afford. You are better off paying a
premium than sinking $3,000 into a lower cost vehicle and then never really
trusting it. Look for those dealer service records. Had I spent another
$2,000 up front and also had it checked out by the dealer I would likely not
be trading it in after three years.
Get the vehicle checked out by a JAGUAR mechanic BEFORE purchase. I paid
$70.00 to get mine checked out by a “we fix anything” shop and they failed
to notice MANY problems unique to the XJ6 which were there when I bought it.
Again, penny wise and pound foolish.

Anyway, enough preaching. Would I buy another Jag in the future? Probably
yes. Actually I think I will wait until the current XJ series hit the 4+
year depreciation mark for used vehicles. Thus I will likely continue
lurking the list in its digest format.

Finally, I suppose you are all dying to know what I bought to replace the
Jag. You could not expect me to go from my Jag to a rice burner … not a
chance. My newest acquisition is a '91 Alfa Romeo 164S. Yes, I am paying
a premium. Yes, it does have meticulous (I mean perfect) dealer service
records, and yes, I did have it checked by an Alfa specialist. The car is
in showroom new condition.

Anyway, my sincerest thanks to all of you for your help over the past few
years. I look forward to sharing (vicariously) in your continuing Jaguar
adventures. I will also be posting some new unused XJ parts for sale once I
get things sorted out,

Best Regards,

                     mike_israel@merck.com

'86 XJ6 (Until tomorrow morning)
'91 Alfa 164S (Effective tomorrow morning)
'77 Spitfire
'81 Rabbit Diesel (In case I actually need to get somewhere )

From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 09:25:43 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: – Jag-Fund Final Tally –

I must apologize for taking so long to get the total out, the past week
has been hellish with stuff like moving a couple tons of misc Jaguar
parta from Grossman’s old race shop to his new race barn, pulling the
dead motor on the Volvo and pulling/refitting the head on the Jag MkII
racer to fix a blown head gasket in preparation for an event this
weekend. Moving all the parts left me with a nasty case of tendonitis
in my wrist, so I’m slowly pecking this msg out with my left hand.
Enough about my problems…

The Jag fund wildly exceeded all expectations, finishing with a total of
$755. I will be sending the check off to our list administrator, Nick,
today.

BMack asked if it was possible to redirect his contribution directly to
Nick as a thank you for Nick’s work. This is certainly possible and I
can coordinate this if anyone else wants to do the same. Simply contact
me sometime over the next week and I’ll move your contribution from the
Jag-fund column to the Thank-you-Nick column. At the end of next week,
I’ll inform Nick and everyone of the totals of the two columns.

I’d like to thank all those who have given so generously to keep the
list going. It looks like we are well set for a couple years.

Donald and Anna Sime Waukegan, Illinois
Dick and Kathryn White Lexington, South Carolina
Tracy Ferrell San Diego, California
Peter and Donna Pesch Chardon, Ohio
John Elmgreen Australia
Jim Beckmeyer Union City, Michigan
Georges Krcmery Quebec CANADA
Dennis Murphy and Nancy Beck Geneva, Illinois
Bill and Sara Clark Sunnyvale, California
Peter and Miriam Pepinsky Auburn, Alabama
Eugene Johnston Chapel Hill, North Carolina
Chris Howard Millbrae, California
Robert and Judy Reid Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Bradley Mack Falls Church, Virginia
Silas Elash San Jose, California
Chery and Brian Chase San Jose, California
Timothy Altman palatine, Illinois
Eugene Siciuivas toronto CANADA
John and Susan Shuck Westport, Connecticut
Carol and Todd Traver Croton-on-Hudson, New York
Nikolay Chitayev St. Louis, Missouri
Sharon and William Trimble Auburn, Alabama
Eric Logan Westport, Connecticut
Luci and Alan Johnston Huntsville, Alabama
Richard and Virginia Cavicke La Jolla, California
Doug Bohannon Winter Haven, Florida
Robert Woodling Bloominton, Indiana
Darlene and Peter Morris Vista, California
Michael and iris Frank Bronxville, New York
Hugh and Mary Jane Rainge Chelmsford, Massachusetts
J.F. “Cal” Callahan San Diego, California
Vincent Chrzanowski Baltic, Connecticut
Robert Gibson Honolulu, Hawaii
Thomas Golodik Closter, New Jersey
James and Lora Kirk II Charleston, West Virginia
David Shield El Dorado Hills, California
Lauren and Paulne Pratt Boulder, Colorado
kPeter Karpien W. Sand Lake, New York
John and Amalia Napoli Setauket, New York
Ilva Klebaner San Francisco, California
J.N. Mansbridge La Jolla, California

/\ Lawrence Buja http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern/
_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
________________Boulder,Colorado___80307-3000

From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 96 09:22:00 PDT
Subject: XJ6 parts replacement guide

Hi All,

I’ve decided that a useful contribution that I can make to the
jag-lovers group would be a parts-replacement guide (that is, can you
replace this Lucas part with an identical Bosch or Delco or whatever
part). In the past couple of months I’ve seen a number of replacement
threads go by, I’ve decided to capture these and post 'em on my
soon-to-be-web-site (I’ll notify Nick when it’s up).

So, I’ll capture these as they come by, with e-mail addresses of the
contributors so that readers can ask detailed questions. I’ll break the
list into an obvious format, like fuel, electrical, A/C, suspension,
performance, etc. Someone (Kirby?) recently asked if anyone would take
on the challenge of producing a Kirby-like book for the XJ6 - I’m not
attempting that, although things may evolve slightly in that direction.
Hmmm, maybe I can organize the chapters in the same way to facilitate
the future direction…

E-mail your inputs to me directly. If someone’s already doing this let
me know and we can consolidate.

Thanks,

David J. Shield

'84 XJ6 VDP
'87 Volvo 745 TGA

From: nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu (Nikolai Chitaev)
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 1996 00:30:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Bye Bye XJ6

Greetings All,

Well, after months of debating “should I or shouldn’t I”, I have finally
traded in my '86 XJ6. My emotions on seeing it go are mixed.

I owned the vehicle for just over three years. I must say it has been both
the greatest and the worst car I have ever owned. The ride, the look and
the “soul” of the vehicle were beyond reproach and I swore I would never own
anything else. Unfortunately, the cost of ownership (repairs) easily
exceeded the combined costs of my three prior vehicles. The only thing I
can say is that is probably in much better mechanical shape today than it
was the day I bought it. I simply hit the point of not wanting to put any
more $$$ into it.

Sad… but stay in touch, your experience is a grate value for those who
still in their firs steps of owning Jag

regards

                            Nikolai A. Chitaev, PhD.
                           <<87`XJ6 4.2L, EFI, BRG>>
                           {nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu}
                            {http://128.252.119.253}
                             St.Louis, Missouri, USA

From: spe00@eng.amdahl.com (Silas Elash)
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 96 10:35:44 PDT
Subject: Re: Mk II question

Re Air conditioning - I have never seen a Mk II with air (except for
Modern rebuilds eg Beechan/Vicarage) and suspect this may have been a
dealer fitted option in the USA only?
John McDonagh
Sorry, I missed the original thread of this discussion:

Yes, you are right about the dealer installed option. My MK2 originally
was fitted with this option- but it was removed by a PO. I started to
look into restoring it back to its “original” state and was met by countless
people saying that it did not work and put too much load on the engine.
That is why the PO took it off, and why everyone took it off.
I abandoned my hopes of air. I am awaiting the time when one of the shops
like Vicarage offers a “kit” of some kind. I have seen pictures of modern
installations and know that it can be done.

Silas Elash
62 MK2 - with no more air
84 XJ6

From: LLoyd 3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@cmsa.berkeley.edu
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 96 10:45:37 PDT
Subject: Re: Mk II question

There are Mk II’s in the USA with air cond. But it appears that only cars
with automatic trannys had it installed. Makes no sence to me. But I’m looking
for one with air and a 4-speed.
I’m told by the 420 registry guy (Henry Krisel in the US) that 420’s came
with either 4-speeds OR air. Only 79 420’s with 4-speeds were brought into
the US. Imagine finding parts for that!!
Mk II’s may not be the same, I don’t know. Perhaps I can find a series I
XJ6 with both at an affordable price.
LLoyd -can you believe I’m dumping a Mercedes for one??-

From: “PHILIP B. GRANT” pgrant@balink.com
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 96 15:17:00 EST
Subject: Tires–XJ-12/Dunlop [Resent}

______________________________ Forward Header __________________________________
342083; Fri, 12 Apr 96 13:46:11 EST
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 96 13:46:11 EST
From: “PHILIP B. GRANT” pgrant@balink.com
Message-Id: 9603128293.AA829342083@BAIS-SMTP.balink.com
To: jaglovers@sn.no
Return-Receipt-To: pgrant@balink.com
Subject: Tires–Resent
content-length: 2130

______________________________ Forward Header __________________________________
.389; Fri, 12 Apr 96 11:23:11 EST
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 96 11:23:11 EST
From: “PHILIP B. GRANT” pgrant@balink.com
Message-Id: 9603128293.AA829333389@BAIS-SMTP.balink.com
To: jaglovers@sn.no
Subject: Tires
content-length: 1295

__Id: 9603128293.AA829333082@BAIS-SMTP.balink.com To:
jaglovers@sn.no
Subject: Tire Sources??XJ-12/Dunlop-SPs
content-length: 652

 Situation: Man buys Jag 1978 XJ12 sedan (71K miles)
 
 Update: Mechanic assesses and reviews 1 week later. "You need: a, b, 
 c, d, e, f etc. and TIRES.
 
 Query: (a) Does anyone have a source for new (discount) Dunlops all 4 
 or (b) Source for slightly used ones--swap meets; parts yards in 
 MidAtlantic; NE etc.
 (c) Opinions on whether factory recommendation of Dunlops is the best 
 way to go.
 
 Thanks in advance for replies.
 
 Regards,
 
 Phil Grant (he whose wallet is about to be lightened by competent, but 
 mournful, local mechanic)
 
 ***********************
 
 
 
 Received: from charron.balink.co by BAIS-SMTP.balink.com (SMTPLINK 
 V2.11 P

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From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 15:07:05 -0500
Subject: Universal motor replacement.

I may try their universal windshield washing pump motor and see
if I can use it to replace the motor in my “E” type. Anyone tried that?
All this started with the need to get some seat covers for my Mercedes.

LLoyd

LLoyd, I realy think that motor wont put out near enough horsepower to
drive the “E Type”. It isn’t even fuel injected!!

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 15:07:07 -0500
Subject: [none]

It hardly ever moves below the - (“normal”) marking. It’s been some time
(some 15K kilometer) since I had a total oil/filter change. Could a sludgey
oil
filter cause the pressure to rise?

Cheers,
Baard

No, but dirty oil (which you surely have) can screw up the guage sender so
it gives a false reading.

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: Peter Hamel jo79@dial.pipex.com
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 96 21:40:59 GMT
Subject: Jaguar woodwork

Hello all,

Has anyone got any experience in renovating the woodwork in
relatively recent Jaguars ?

I have a 1986 series 3 XJ6 whose wood trim is peeling in places. I
thought I would try to strip the “varnish” off and recover the wood
on a couple of the door trims, but where the surface is still solid
it is very thick and difficult to remove. How do I remove this
covering without damaging the wood underneath. What is the covering ?
It seems like thick plastic. Also what type of surface treatment
should I use to re-cover the wood?
The surface of the wood under the covering is actually quite rough,
should it be sanded smooth before covering?
Sorry, lots of questions, any help gratefully received.

Regards

Pete Hamel
pete.hamel@dial.pipex.com

From: ericmuno@peganet.com
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 17:42:39 -0400
Subject: New Member (“Undecided”)

   I am a new member, but have been a Jaguar admirer for many years.        
   At the present I am considering investing around $15K. in a classic car
   as a hobby. I am undecided among three options:
   -Jaguar XKE-Thunderbird(55-57)-Corvette(53-63).(The car has to be

AUTOMATIC)
I am inclined for the E Type, which in my opinion, is one of the more
beauti-
ful cars ever built, BUT…I am concerned about so many
“horror
stories” on the poor reliability of this car.
I keep reading about problems with the Lucas electrical system, oil leaks
that cannot be fixed, over-heating engines, spare parts availability
problems etc.etc,.
I live in Florida,USA, and I can do some limited mechanical work myself.
Well my fellow Jaguar-Lovers, after reading this, I shall appreciate your
UN-BIASED and OBJECTIVE opinion, recommendations and advice.
Thank you very much for your help!!
Eric Munoz
Ericmuno@peganet.com

From: “mark (m.d.) roberts” markdr@bnr.ca
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 17:43:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Canadian E-types

Charles:

Another “yep”…1963 3.8l FHC, Ottawa. In my
spare time…er in my wife’s spare time, SHE is
organizing the Ottawa Jaguar Club’s Concours,
with Patricia Robertson, (refer to Jaguar Journal
from JCNA) also to be held in June, the 8th.
Usually have about a dozen E-types out for our show.

Regards, Mark R.

Mark Roberts Phone (613) 763-2924
Ottawa, Ontario, CANADA Fax: (613) 763-3970
1988 VDP - SIII V12 email: markdr@nortel.ca
1963 3.8L E-Type Coupe - 15 years into a 3 year project

From: Jon Jackson jon1@flash.net
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 17:48:47 -0500
Subject: Door Handle

I am searching for a left side door handle for a 87 XJ-S. I need the chrome one. If
any one has one for sale or knows where I may get one without having to give up one of
my arms, would you let me know. You can E-mail me directly at jon1@flash.net

Thanks
87 XJ-S and lovin it

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #36

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jag-lovers-digest Sunday, 14 April 1996 Volume 02 : Number 037

From: Dikavik@aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 18:41:23 -0400
Subject: Misc XK120

John Elmgreen asked about original XK 120 carpet heel pads. That’s the one
carpet item I kept from my original set. It has probably shrunk somewhat but
it currently measures 8.5" x 12.5" overall. It is made from two equal-sized
rectangular pieces of leather stitched together (stitches concealed) through
the center of the long (12.5") dimension. There is perimeter “top-stitching”
approximately one-fourth inch in from the outside edge and “top-stitching”
diagonals which intersect symmetrically at the center (on top of the seam
holding the two pieces of leather together). This decorative “top stitching”
is quite coarse with only 9 stitches each 2". There is no cardboard backing.
The pad leather edges have been turned under approx 3/4", trimmed at the
underside corners (to avoid an overlap lump) and glued.

I’ve forgotten who made the comment about the sound of his stainless steel
exhaust system. I would just affirm his observation in that a stainless dual
set from Ames which I have on my FHC is definitely loud (and irritating)
compared to the mild steel dual set on my OTS. I don’t know if changing the
stainless muffler alone would soften the sound. Both cars tend to announce
themselves excessively in my quiet neighborhood, and on long drives the noise
is wearing particularly since all conversation has to be shouted. (Hearing a
radio is out of the question.)

From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 22:43:12 +0100
Subject: Re: XJ40 Battery

 I highly recommend the Optima sealed battery.  It costs around $150 but is well worth it.  There is a 
two year free replacement warranty with a six year depreciated warranty. Optima ships from San Jose, try
calling 800.292.4359 for a local dealer.

The guys in Denver were talking about a “Gates” battery, and I think they
mentioned it was also referred to as an Optima. Apparently the
electrolyte is a gel rather than a liquid, so there is no chance of spillage.

I’d like to know more. There was disagreement about whether or not the
battery is truly sealed, since it would appear that chemistry requires
that gases will be emitted during operation. Is it sealed, or does it
merely give this impression because it can be turned upside down without
spilling?

From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 22:12:12 +0100
Subject: Brake Reservoir Hose

I don;t know if I would be so quick to condemn the hose used. This
stuff has to contend with methanol and stuff that is more nasty that
brake fluid. That are the ratings for the hose. John Shuck…
xk120, e-type other brit stuff two and 4 wheel.

All I can say is that the fuel line did decompose and swell enough to
sludge up the lines and let in tons of air. I have not experienced any
trouble since I switched the hose and bled the brakes.

For any and all that have this problem: As described in my booklet, I
went to an industrial hose supply joint and was sold a suitable piece of
hose, which has worked very well ever since. I have since discovered
that this hose is commonly available as standard “air hose”, red with a
black inner liner. The 1/4" size is needed on brake reservoirs. It is
sold by the foot at Home Depot and many other places.

I actually think this hose is BETTER than the original. The fluid
remains crystal clear, while it always seemed to discolor with the stock
hose. The only question might be how this hose will withstand heat,
since it is not necessarily intended to serve within an engine
compartment. My car has had no overheating problems since long before
this hose was installed, so it hasn’t been thoroughly tested in this area.

From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 21:03:01 +0100
Subject: Re: XJ-S ECU Open/Closed Loop

But herein lies
another question for Dingli: Does the EFI system provide a fixed amount of
fuel per revolution at idle, or does it vary with manifold vacuum? Even if
it were fixed, you would think that an air leak would raise the idle,
therefore causing more pulses and bringing the AFR back into line.

EFI systems often provide a fixed fuel rate per revolution during cranking
since the air flow or manifold pressure signals tend to fluctuate too much
or are outside the measurable bounds of the sensors. On the other hand,
while idling, the ECU will carefully meter fuel according to engine load
measured from manifold pressure signals for a speed density system or mass
air flow for other systems.

So, why does the ECU clearly behave DIFFERENTLY at idle than at any other
throttle position?

PS. Kirby, you have my permission to refer to me as Robert
Robert Dingli   r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au

Hey, Robert is too common, I even have a nephew by that name. But, if
you insist.

From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 20:53:29 +0100
Subject: Experience In A Book

I have suggested on several occasions that someone undertake the
preparation of a booklet similar to mine (XJ-S) on the XJ6. I have
recently come up with another suggestion, sorta along the same lines:
perhaps it would be helpful if someone would assemble a similar
collection of experience and wisdom on the XK engine itself. This should
involve less work, concentrating on the engine alone and ignoring the
rest of the car. It would also have a LOT of interest, since derivations
of this engine have been used in so many cars.

Anybody interested in such a venture? I would repeat my earlier offer
that someone can use my booklet as a starting point, but there’s likely
to be very little of use there.

From: BMack7316@aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 22:52:07 -0400
Subject: Re: SIII Audio Nirvana

John:

You’re absolutely, positively right about that V12 sound, unless it sounds
like my XJS does right now. The motor is coming out week after next. My
goal is to have her back on the road so that I can tickle my ears by Memorial
Day.

My straight six 4.2 sounds pretty neat too! I guess I’m finally blessed with
some win-win options; options to listen to 80 MPH of mechanical splendor or
an 80 MPH concert hall

Brad Mack (Coin operated)
85 SIII [JAGNRND]
85 XJS (entering rehab…)
92 Pathfinder (defending the Jags)

From: BMack7316@aol.com
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 23:01:45 -0400
Subject: SIII Popularity & Finding a Jag Club

There sure appears to be renewed interest in these sedans in the Washington
DC metro area. Prices are inching up, there are fewer for sale and you see
them on the road more frequently. I guess everyone is finally getting it!

Does anyone know of a Jaguar Club in my area?

Brad Mack (Coin operated)
85 SIII [JAGNRND]
85 XJS (entering rehab…)
92 Pathfinder (defending the Jags)

From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 23:03:19 +0100
Subject: Re: Plugs swimming in oil!

I recently acquired an '89 XJ40 and tonight for no particular reason I
decided to take a spark plug wire off. Now I’m sickened. I don’t think the
engine design calls for plug wires to cook in 4 inches of oil. What is
wrong?

My guess is that the DPO spilled oil on top of the head when refilling. Cam
covers are much more likely to leak on the bottom. Clean it off and wait and
see if it reoccurs before you get too worried about it.

This is not a XK engine. It’s an AJ6, a totally different beast. It is
impossible to inadvertantly spill oil into the plug wells. someone would have
to purposely remove each plug wire and pour some oil down the holes. The
oil fill is a pipe well away from the cam cover.

You guys are all missing the obvious answer. Some jerk wanted to add
oil to the engine and decided to top up each of these six cavities the
way one adds water to a battery!

“Never attribute to malice that which can be adequately explained by
stupidity.”

From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 23:09:04 +0100
Subject: downloading from www

Hi all,
So many have replied with help for me re: d/l graphics.
(Thank you)
I realized, as more responses came in, that I have been
thanking each by direct mail, instead of through the list…so
…they keep coming in!
I was able to d/l a red E-Type from the web, import it
into Photo-shop and “re-paint” it the color of my
'62 E-Type, then crop a head/shoulders of myself and
paste “me” in the driver’s seat! It is now my wallpaper.
I have now decided to do a full restoration in photo-shop!
Should save tons of $$$$.
Question: Are Colorado backup tapes eligible for concours
judging?
Ripped out the interior of the cabin today (most of it)

-it now resides on my dining room floor!
But that’s not a problem - I have an E-Type
-who can afford food?
Best,
Charles Daly

From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Fri, 12 Apr 1996 23:20:25 +0100
Subject: [none]

From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Subject: Re: Universal motor replacement.

At 03:07 PM 12/04/96 -0500, you wrote:
I may try their universal windshield washing pump motor and see
if I can use it to replace the motor in my “E” type. Anyone tried that?

LLoyd, I realy think that motor wont put out near enough horsepower to
drive the “E Type”. It isn’t even fuel injected!!
Jim Isbell
Lloyd,
Don’t listen to Jim. I’m sure it would work, but you’ll prob, need three
pump motors, one for each carb. Don’t forget to install a bilge pump in
the cabin though. Depending on cost, I suppose you could pass on the
bilge pump and just wear rubber boots (Wellies?) I think Barretts has
chrome oar-locks for $1800. the pair.
Good luck,
Charles

From: WestNet mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 1996 00:39:17 -0400
Subject: RPM Revisited

Many thanks to all who offered advice on my rev problem. Here is an update.

The consensus was that I had a distributor problem, so that is what I
checked. First I checked the advance using a timing light. While imprecise,
I was definitely getting plenty of advance.

Next, a new cap and rotor to no avail.

Next, I dressed and gapped the points…but wait! Shouldn’t a Mallory dual
point have two sets of points? Eureka! PO had set up the distributor with
only one set…no wonder there was so much room to work in there! Rumaging
through The Boxes, sure enough, found a second set of Mallory points.
Cobbled up an electrical lead, set everything up and…WOW…5000
at last…Nirvana! (Of course I never drive like that!).

One last question. Does anyone out there know the correct settings for a
Mallory distributor? I set each set of points at 28 degrees, with a combined
reading of 35 degrees. This seems to work OK. Is this right? Can it get even
better?

Thanks again,

Mike

From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 1996 08:55:03 -0400
Subject: Smoke Fix?

During the meeting I attended with the Jaguar club in Denver, there was much
discussion involving cars that smoke. Apparently Colorado has laws against
“visible emissions” – although I couldn’t determine how that applied to
diesel trucks. In any case, the suggestion was made that the use of
synthetic oil could reduce or eliminate visible smoke from oil-burning cars.

I find it an interesting enough concept to pose the question to this group.
I’m sure none of us would consider such a method of avoiding troubles with
those environment-protecting laws we all love and would properly rebuild our
own cars at the first sign of tailpipe smoke, but for the benefit of those
who must postpone that overhaul: will using synthetic oil really reduce or
eliminate oil-burning smoke?

  --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                   |  some rules must be broken.
                   |          -- Palm's Postulate

From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@compuserve.com
Date: 13 Apr 96 09:50:43 EDT
Subject: XJ6 - Alfa

Mike Israel just replaced his XJ6 with an Alfa 164. We did the same thing some
years ago (except it was an XJC 5.3 1975). I hope I do not make too may enemies
if I say that the XJC was a beautiful executive express, but the Alfa is a
sports car. It also has on road test exactly the same performance as the XJ40 4
litre (acceleration and top speed). We still have it, tho my wife would rather
have an XJ again (recent thread here?) even if it was she who wanted out of the
2 door. One disappointment with recent XJ6s (XJ40 and X300) has been the look
of the engine compartment. The Alfa is quite magnificent here - all Italian
style - 6 beautiful chromed inlet tubes etc etc. I will add that our
preferences at the broadest levels remain for English and Italian cars (no
Swedish, German or French - all too ugly for one thing). And the X300 really is
a magnificent looking car. Regards, John Elmgreen

From: Jim Goring jgoring@ccnet.com
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 1996 10:56:14 +0000
Subject: Re: XJ6 - Alfa

John Elmgreen wrote:

The Alfa is quite magnificent here - all Italian
style - 6 beautiful chromed inlet tubes etc etc. I will add that our
preferences at the broadest levels remain for English and Italian cars (no
Swedish, German or French - all too ugly for one thing). And the X300 really is
a magnificent looking car. Regards, John Elmgreen

This may merrit further psychological investigation. I too used to have an Alfa,(mine was the
GTV6). Drove wonderfully, cornered like it was on rails, etc… and the sound of that engine.
truly a poor man’s ferarri. And now? A 30 year old Jag sedan. Perhaps its a penchant for
posessing things that need our help, or keep us distracted from other pressing concerns out
there in so called real life.

I miss the zip of the Alfa. Especially now that the S-type is stuck in 1st gear. I sit in it
with the engine running going “grrr vroom, vroom”… with the daughter looking at me like I’ve
totally lost it. Which, of course, isnt far off.

Another good thing about the alfa’s, at least older ones. They are simple mechanically, and
lightweight.

Still… I like Bagheera just fine

From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 1996 20:14:05 -0400
Subject: R&T Review of XJ12

I was looking through an auto mag the other day; I think it was the April
issue of Road & Track. It reviewed the new XJ12, and gave it excellent reviews.

I thought it was interesting that Jaguar/Ford has introduced this
V12-powered car while cancelling the XJ-S.

There were at least two items, plainly visible in the pictures, that remind
us that Sir William is long gone and Ford is now in charge: 1) On the
intake manifolds is printed “Jaguar V12” in the biggest letters that would
fit. Tacky beyond belief. 2) On the top of the grille, there is the Jaguar
face medallion; mounted right behind it on the hood is a leaping cat.
Please, one or the other, not both.

  --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                   |  some rules must be broken.
                   |          -- Palm's Postulate

From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 1996 20:13:56 -0400
Subject: Re: XJ-S ECU Open/Closed Loop

If the Jag ECU shuts off the fuel in this way, and Kirby’s ECU is not
reacting properly, his stalling under trailing throttle transients might
be explained. Or, maybe his ECU is ok, but his engine decelerates
quicker due to the manual flywheel and clutch assembly having less
inertia than the stock torque converter filled will fluid.

My flywheel – a stock SIII E-type unit – is so goddamn heavy it’s hard to
imagine the torque convertor being any heavier, fluid or no. However, the
fact that the ECU doesn’t go into closed-loop in P or N, and in D the car
will be moving so the motion of the car will keep the motor turning,
indicates that the ECU may be working normally but would never have this
problem in a stock application.

His ECU can’t
react in time, and the engine stalls. A simple way to test this, but
maybe logistically difficult to perform, would be for hin to swap in an ECU
from a manual V12, assuming his clutch setup is not very much lighter
than stock Jag manual components.

Logistically difficult is right! As far as I know, such a critter does not
exist!

  --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                   |  some rules must be broken.
                   |          -- Palm's Postulate

From: GrateflJag@aol.com
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 1996 22:38:01 -0400
Subject: Re: SIII Popularity & Finding a Jag Club

In a message dated 96-04-12 23:34:09 EDT, you write:

Does anyone know of a Jaguar Club in my area?

I know that there is a club in the Washington DC area, but I don’t know the
contact person. However, I think you may find out some information if you
check out:

http://www.intex.net/personal/cci/jagdir.html

FYI (and others around the world) this is apparently a Jaguar Clubs of the
World listing. I haven’t visited yet, but did receive some snail-mail
advertising the service. Might be worth a quick look.

Kind regards,
Mark West
89 XJ-S
96 Jeep Grand Cherokee (so the Jag doesn’t need to know what “s-n-o-w” is…)

From: GrateflJag@aol.com
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 1996 22:43:17 -0400
Subject: Jaguar directory – NOT!

http://www.intex.net/personal/cci/jagdir.html isn’t anymore. Sorry for the
bum steer.

Mark

From: cci@intex.net (Reginald J. G. Heber)
Date: Sat, 13 Apr 1996 22:22:49 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: chassis numbers by car model

Good day all,
Have just posted a table of chassis numbers by car model. I believe it to be
error free (and Lucas to be
trouble free) but if you SHOULD happen upon an error of ommission or
commission, please let me know so I can fix it.
Time to shut down the system, major T-storms approaching; surge protectors
haven’t failed me yet, but I try not to test them tooooooooo often.
Jon Heber
http://www.intex.net/~cci/index.html

From: Dikavik@aol.com
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 1996 00:47:13 -0400
Subject: Thank You

John, thank you for sending me the AUS National Concours scoring results and
judging sheets. There appeared to be a nice cross section of cars. I liked
the make-up of the classes but was disappointed to see that the Authenticity
Judging Sheets were essentially a direct copy of JCNA’s, including some of
the totally out-of-whack point deductions. Something must be done to correct
things such as: One can be entirely missing the hood/top and lose 6.0 points,
yet bring a car with a wrong color, wrong fabric or missing headliner and you
lose 16.8 points; be missing one wheel spat and you only lose 1.8 points.
What a deal!! The JCNA Judges Manual is under revision and eventually that
section will be fixed.

If you ever need something to complain about, the authenticity score sheets
could keep you occupied for days. I do appreciate your sending them
regardless.

One more trivia item for the XK120 list. An item which is consistent on both
my cars and in the Spare Parts Catalogue is the strap which secures the tool
roll in the boot. (Not to be confused with the strap which is attached to the
tool roll itself). The tool roll securing strap is located in the left corner
of the boot forward of the fuel filler pipe cover. It attaches to the side
panel with a single sheet metal screw in the center of the strap. It is a
very awkward place to reach. If your car doesn’t have a strap I’ll bet the
hole is there where one was once attached. The “Strap, securing Tool Roll”,
BD.3437, is listed for all 120s see OTS pages 52 and 71; FHC page 12 and DHC
page 22.

Regards, Dick

From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Wed, 10 Apr 1996 21:37:37 GMT
Subject: Re: Jaguar World magazine

In message 960410102447_268312834@emout06.mail.aol.com BSherw@aol.com writes:

Could someone please provide a subscription address for “Jaguar World”
magazine?
[snip]
Brian Sherwood, '85 XJ6, shopping for XJ-S.

The issue you need is Volume 8, number 3 of January/February 1996. Address:

Jaguar World
Kelsey Publishing Ltd
Kelsey House
77 High Street
Beckenham, Kent
BR3 1AN
England

Telephone +44 (181) 6583531
Fax +44 (181) 6508035

Regards,

Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk

From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 1996 11:45:15 -0400
Subject: Re: '94 XJ40 VDP Security System–Advice Needed

     FWIW, the District of Columbia Metropolitan Police Department 
     doesn't normally respond to glass breaks; doesn't take 
     fingerprints; or chase car vandals.  I reported the cell phone 
     theft -- which is becoming more and more common -- the next day 
     via phone.  One day, because of the electronic serial number, I 
     may get the phone back.

Take it easy on your friends in blue; they have their hands full passing out
speeding tickets. If you actually want them to combat crime, you’re gonna
have to vote for a LOT more funding!

  --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                   |  some rules must be broken.
                   |          -- Palm's Postulate

From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 1996 12:53:44 -0400
Subject: Headliner Repair

The headliner in my XJ-S was in bad shape and sagging in parts so I had the
bright idea of fixing it myself. I removed the fiberglass headliner insert
and reattached some foam and fabric with 3M spray adhesive. It looked great
all winter long! A few weeks ago, we had some decent weather here in PA so I
had the car outside all day. Just that small amount of heat was enough to
completely undo all the adhesive, leaving the fabric and foam hanging from
the headliner.
I think my methods were sound, now I just need to find a better adhesive.

As I stated in a private message, all such attempts at regluing are a
complete waste of time, the headliner must be replaced. Here’s why: The
headliner consists of a fabric bonded to a layer of foam, which is glued to
the roof. When the headliner falls, it is not due to the glue failing but
rather to the foam deteriorating. The foam comes apart, leaving particles
of it glued to the roof and particles attached to the fabric. If you glue
the particles back together, the foam will just come apart again. The only
solution is to replace the headliner altogether.

By the way, there is no reason to replace the fiberglass. Replacing the
headliner means installing a new headliner over the old fiberglass.

It’s my understanding that the 3M spray adhesive is what the professional
shops use when installing new headliners.

  --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                   |  some rules must be broken.
                   |          -- Palm's Postulate

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #37

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Message-Id: 199604150751.JAA08526@ekeberg.sn.no
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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 15 April 1996 Volume 02 : Number 038

From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 1996 17:54:55 GMT
Subject: Re: XJ-S ECU Open/Closed Loop / V12 manual

In message 199604140013.AA06429@gcn.scri.fsu.edu Kirby Palm writes:

from a manual V12, assuming his clutch setup is not very much lighter
than stock Jag manual components.

Logistically difficult is right! As far as I know, such a critter does not
exist!

Chapter 37 of the Jaguar service manual is entitled “Gearbox-manual
(Jaguar-5.3)”

Must be for a V12, Jaguar never made a 6-cylinder 5.3

Regards,

Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk

From: “J.W. Beckmeyer” 73131.3076@compuserve.com
Date: 14 Apr 96 13:42:04 EDT
Subject: RE:Hazy XJ40 Headlamp lens

Notes on XJ-40 Headlamp haze…

Some of the list.XJ40.owners asked me to post my method for getting rid of the
haze on the inside of the headlamp lens. It seems that there are more than a
few XJ40 owners who have this problem with their headlamps. Then again, a LOT
of XJ40 owners don’t. Go figure. But before attempting what I’ve outlined
below, a couple of things should be taken into consideration.

First, I had nothing to lose by trying something drastic/stupid. Either I had
to replace my headlamps entirely with factory units (expensive) OR I had to
devise a method of cleaning the lenses. I figured that if I botched the job, I
would have to replace the headlamp units anyway. There was, IMHO, nothing to
lose. Of course, I could have just left them alone…remain hazy…but I didn’t
like that option. One thought: used units may be available from a Jag dealer or
indep. tech…you might want to check this out.

Secondly, no “official” fix for the XJ40 hazy headlamp syndrome has, to my
knowledge, been published by Jaguar. That being the case, the XJ40 owner facing
this problem has only a few options:

Live with it. or,
Replace the entire headlamp unit. I understand that prices for the unit
(new) run US $300 and up, each. or,
Find a way to clean the lens without destroying it in the process.

If options 1 and 2 are out of the question, you might be interested in how I
accomplished #3.

Remove the headlamp unit from the car.
Using a modestly precision cutting tool (Dremel), cut the chromed plastic
piece around the circumference of the reflector where it meets the glass, going
in from the edge 1/4". When this has been cut away, it is easy to locate where
the lens and reflector are joined together.
Using a sharp, thin blade (razor blade, Exacto knife), cut into the seam
where the reflector and lens are joined, breaking the bead made by the adhesive
used at the factory. When the entire circumference of the headlamp unit has
been cut, the reflector and lens can be detached from each other by gently
pulling them apart.

Note: As the reflector on my unit was clean and in fine shape, there was
nothing to do to it except protect it from dust and scratches while it was
separated from the lens. If, however, you find that the reflector on your unit
is in bad shape, you’re on your own. I have no method for cleaning, polishing
or restoring it.

Clean the lenses. I had very good luck with running them through a complete
cycle in my dishwasher.
Reattach the lens to the reflector. Using a suitable adhesive, lay a 1/8"
bead around the lens where it will meet with the reflector upon reassembly.
You’ll get best results if you can clamp the lens and reflector together while
the adhesive is drying. Not too much pressure, however.
Give the adhesive ample time to set. I used 24 hours.
Reinstall unit into car.

More notes–headlight aim: Before I did this, I got a measurement of the
pattern of my headlamps, both low and high beams. When the process was
completed, I rechecked the aim and found that nothing discernible had changed.
You may or may not wish to skip this step.

Considerations regarding the adhesive:

Has to be waterproof
Has to be heat resistant.
Has to provide a solid bond…can’t have those headlights falling apart. And
the bead you lay must be perfect to insure that no water can get in the
headlamp unit under normal use.
Has to last. Obviously one wants the adhesive bond to last permanently or at
least until the lens needs cleaning again. And, importantly, use an adhesive
that will not give off any substance (fumes, etc.) that might cause the lens to
haze up again. Remember that the adhesive may be exposed to considerable heat!
Has to be neutral in color. When the units are reassembled and in the car,
you will be able to see the adhesive bead through the glass (prism effect of
the lens, I guess). Jaguar used one that was light gray. I didn’t. It shows.
Well, at least I can see it but unless one knows what to look for, I doubt
that anyone other than a jag tech or jag lover would notice.

Also…
Be very careful when cutting the chromed plastic. The Dremel disk goes through
the plastic very quickly…only cut away enough to find the joint made up by the
lens and reflector.

In conclusion, this fix for the hazy XJ40 lens is not elegant. I don’t like it
myself. If anyone can actually find a simpler, faster, or less drastic way of
removing the haze, please share it with the list.

If you decide to use my method and are unclear about any of the steps, feel free
to email me and I’ll try to help you out.

Best regards,
Jim Beckmeyer Union CIty, MI USA
e-mail: 73131.3076@compuserve.com
90 Jaguar XJ-40-Sovereign
60 Jaguar MK II

From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 1996 20:11:20 -0400
Subject: RE:Hazy XJ40 Headlamp lens

I have a couple suggestions and questions regarding this headlight de-hazing
process, even though I don’t own an XJ40 and have never actually seen the
unit in question.

First:

Using a modestly precision cutting tool (Dremel), cut the chromed plastic
piece around the circumference of the reflector where it meets the glass, going
in from the edge 1/4".

It is not mentioned if this chrome plated plastic item is ever reinstalled.
However, it sounds like a perfect application of one of my favorite items:
aluminum tape. Sold for sealing air conditioning ductwork, it lasts
forever, resists heat well, and seals extremely well.

Second:

Clean the lenses. I had very good luck with running them through a
complete
cycle in my dishwasher.

If I had this thing apart, I’d be sorely tempted to put some Rain-X on the
inside surface of the glass.

Finally:

Again, I haven’t handled one of these assemblies myself, but I find it
rather difficult to believe that the haziness cannot be fixed by removing
the bulb, pouring some cleaner or solvent into the hole, and sloshing it
around. Why won’t this work?

  --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                   |  some rules must be broken.
                   |          -- Palm's Postulate

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 15 Apr 96 10:15:07
Subject: Re:^ Tires–XJ-12/Dunlop^ ^[Resent^}

Phil, I don’t know anything about the US situation, but I’m currently using
Dunlop Le Mans 225-60 on the standard steel rims of my '78 XJ5.3L and find it
a big improvement for handling and grip with no loss of comfort. The downside
is that the rolling radius is 5mm (0.2") too small, which gives me about a 3%
speedo error and a slight loss of ground clearance. On the '77 XJ5.3C I’m
running 7x15in alloy rims with Bridgestone Eagers in 235-60, which are perfect
for rolling radius and excellent for grip and handling but noisy at low speed,
take a couple of inches off the turning circle and required some slight
modification to the bodywork

- Jan

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 1996 18:44:20 -0500
Subject: XJ6 Book, I will take up the Challange

OK, Kirby, I will take up the challange and do the XJ6 book along the lines
of your XJS book. But I will need your input to keep me on the right track.

To all interested parties:

I am a published Technical writer and so have some, however minor, tallent
at this so I will give it a go.

I have as most of you know a 1982 XJ6 so I will hace a test bed for the
information when it is required.

If you have any information that you think should be in the “XJ6 Book”, send
it to me by E-Mail “off the list” Send it with the subject line “XJ6 Book”
so I will recognise it and not accidentaly wipe it out.

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: turborat@atlcom.net
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 96 20:56:30 -0400
Subject: Just a thought for the list

Hello all:

Having little experience in Majordomo and mail servers, I would like to
propose an idea if the technical ability of the server permits.

Would fellow readers like to see all of the “subject” titles appear at the
top of each volume? I enjoy many of the posts but, would find it
convienient to see what subject matter was included prior to searching for
revelant (to me) posts when time does not permit the reading of the entire
volume or in my case many volumes due to travel schedules.

I am currently subscribing to several other auto related digests, one of
which (BMW) constructs the volumes in the manner I suggest above. I would
be happy to post an example if requested. Assuming that it would be legal???

Thanks for the B/W.

Respectfully yours:

Paul Konitshek

'86 XJ-S

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 15 Apr 96 11:17:55
Subject: RE:Hazy XJ40 Headlamp lens

If the haze is actual dirt, read no further - Jim Beckmeyer’s recent posting is
obviously The Goods. If it’s condensation, I’d suggest pulling the unit out,
removing the bulb(s) and gently baking it in an electric oven at less than 90
deg c (200 F) for as long as it takes for the haze to go away. Resting it on
top of a central heating radiator should do the job, too.

- Jan

From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 1996 21:23:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Questions…

At 06:17 PM 4/5/96 +0000, mikes@iu.net wrote:

Hi

1/ 1986 XJS been parked up for 8 months after AC leaked and destroyed
wiring in engine bay. The interior has now rotted away. Do the alloy
V12 deteriorate a lot from standing? Is is possible to retrim a car
like this for any thing like a reasonable amount of money? Is there
anywhere that can supply second hand jag interior trim parts? The
owner only wants about $1500 for it though.

Great price for a project car.

2/ 1988 XJS - has dropped a valve seat The owner spent $7k on
rebuilding the engine after an oil pump failed and the engine locked
up solid. This sounds to me like their may be more serious damage
from the overheating and rebuilding the heads and replacing the
damaged piston is just the start of the job! Price - $5k

This car is not worth much. Buy 'em both for $1500 each, make one, and part
out the leftovers. IF you are into this sort of thing.

I don’t mind doing the work if necessary as I’ve rebuilt a couple of
MGB’s and even a Triumph Vitesse before but never any thing as
complex as a Jag. Is it worth it though or should I just hold out for
a well cared for low mileage car for less than $6k - probaly rarer than
hen’s teeth!

I don’t think so – you should be able to find a good XJ-S for this price.

Regards,

John

From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 1996 21:28:41 -0400
Subject: Re: General Answers and XK8

At 03:56 PM 4/5/96 -0500, TezFair@aol.com wrote:

Answers…
John G. Napoli asked

Is there a workbook or guideline of some sort that describes the order in
which the XJ-S is assembled, by subassembly? I will be doing a ground-up,
and, if available, it might provide insights as to the best sequence.
Usually the factory knows best about such matters and a hobbyist might not
divine the most efficient way.<

When we build any car we are given ‘process sheets’. These sheets enable the
operator to build the car correctly. However these sheets are unavailable to
anyone other than the person that is refers to. If you get stuck and need
help and a workshop manual doesn’t help then I shall try to find out the bit
you need help on.

Thanks for the offer! It may come in handy.

Napoli

From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 1996 21:58:12 -0400
Subject: Re: SIII Audio Nirvana

At 10:52 PM 4/12/96 -0400, BMack7316@aol.com wrote:

John:

You’re absolutely, positively right about that V12 sound, unless it sounds
like my XJS does right now. The motor is coming out week after next. My
goal is to have her back on the road so that I can tickle my ears by Memorial
Day.

My straight six 4.2 sounds pretty neat too! I guess I’m finally blessed with
some win-win options; options to listen to 80 MPH of mechanical splendor or
an 80 MPH concert hall

Brad Mack (Coin operated)
85 SIII [JAGNRND]
85 XJS (entering rehab…)
92 Pathfinder (defending the Jags)

Good luck on getting your engine back in quickly, and your not getting
Shipwrightish about it (I tend to have problems with that sometimes). Of
course, as long as your sound system is working, you could enjoy it in the
meantime.

Napoli

From: “Peter W. Karpien” 100306.3514@compuserve.com
Date: 14 Apr 96 22:21:27 EDT
Subject: 85 XJ6 Odometer and wind noise

Since the winter rebuild of the head my 85 XJ6 everything has been running
smoothly, but
now it is time to sort out some of the small problems.

Last weekend I took a small jaunt (150miles each way) down to Binghamton New
York.
The car performed wonderfully except for the odometer which stopped working
sometime on
the way down.

From what Ive read on the list I seem to recall that the signal to the odometer
and the trip
computer comes from the same transducer in the tranny. Correct me if Im wrong.
At present the trip computer is still measuring distance correctly as well as
all other measurements, and my
speedometer and tach are functioning fine as well. I am assuming then, that the
problem is
in the odometer gauge itself.

Is it possible to trouble shoot this gauge? Does anyone know how? What kind of
electronic
signal does it receive from the transducer, so I can test to see if it is
reaching the odometer and so I can
reproduce it (if possible) to test the odometer on the bench. Any suggestions
would surly be welcome.

One other quick one, I hope.
I have a considerable amount of air noise at high speeds coming from the back of
the drivers
side door. I think it is coming from the top of the window seal. I think the
window needs to go up
farther into the seal. The manual is unclear on adjusting the travel of the
window. My best
guess was to loosen the regulator outer slide channel securing bolts (Series
III service manual
pg 76-22 section 76.31.01)
and push the bolts up moving the regulator outer slide channel up. I tried
this quickly once
and it seemed to lessen the wind noise somewhat. Am I on the right track? No
pun intended.

TIA
Peter

-85XJ
100306.3514@compuserve.com

P.S.
Like some other members of the list, I was having problems with my bonnet
popping while driving.
I never could find a pattern and surprisingly it didnt usually happen while
driving over
bumpy roads. In any case I think I may have found the cure. I used to close
the bonnet by pushing
it down with my two hands while standing in front of the car. A friend of mine
showed me the
correct way which was by grabbing the top of grill section and pivoting it
downward, letting the weight of
the bonnet do all the work. It hasnt popped up yet since I started closing it
this way.
Its the little fixes that make it all worth while!

From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 1996 22:27:10 -0400
Subject: Re: XJ-S ECU Open/Closed Loop

At 08:13 PM 4/13/96 -0400, Kirby Palm wrote:

Logistically difficult is right! As far as I know, such a critter does not
exist!

The recent Jaguar World issue spotlighting XJ-S’s reported that there were
some manual cars. Not many, though.

Maybe just swap ECUs with someone else? I’ll lend you my old one if you
want. It has an intermittant problem, but nothing that would interfere with
this test.

Napoli

From: jgn@li.net (John G. Napoli)
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 1996 23:04:16 -0400
Subject: Re: XJ6 Book, I will take up the Challange

At 06:44 PM 4/14/96 -0500, James A. Isbell wrote:

OK, Kirby, I will take up the challange and do the XJ6 book along the lines
of your XJS book. But I will need your input to keep me on the right track.

To all interested parties:

I am a published Technical writer and so have some, however minor, tallent
at this so I will give it a go.

I have as most of you know a 1982 XJ6 so I will hace a test bed for the
information when it is required.

If you have any information that you think should be in the “XJ6 Book”, send
it to me by E-Mail “off the list” Send it with the subject line “XJ6 Book”
so I will recognise it and not accidentaly wipe it out.

–
Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

There has got to be a lot of information in common. Kirby’s book, while
focusing on the XJ-S, includes information on many topics applicable to the
XJ6. For example, parts and service sources, shared systems/components
(climate control and I’m sure many others), general operational and
modification guidelines, etc, etc.

May I offer a suggestion? Before diving in to a completely separate XJ6
document, even one that uses Kirby’s book as a starting point, take some
time to inventory everything in Kirby’s book. The goal is to avoid the
oodles of redundancy and no easy way to keep the two manuals in sync. Kirby
and you should agree on a procedure for dealing with issues that apply to
both cars. For example, maybe Kirby controls the ‘Sources’ chapter, and you
always include his latest version in the XJ6 book. New sources get added to
Kirby’s first, even if they are ‘discovered’ by an XJ6 book contributor.

It would also really be nice, though not necessary, if you and Kirby used
the same software. Kirby has hinted that he may be changing from
Wordperfect to Word, so maybe you both go that way. Kirby may need to
change sections in his book somewhat to accomodate the common topics.

Hey, listen, guys – I know that this is all volunteer stuff, and I am not
trying to suggest complex working relationships and dependencies to slow
each of you down. But it can be a bear to support two
separate-but-really-not documents. Some planning and coordination now could
make maintenance of these books easier in the long run.

Obviously, since these are your books handle them the way you want. If you
need some thoughts on options for setting up something like this, though,
let me know.

Napoli

From: Kirk Stewart kstewart@MNSi.Net
Date: Sun, 14 Apr 1996 23:41:26 -0400
Subject: xj40 trip computer

This is a repost of my poser for XJ40 people.

Question: how does the trip computer get it’s fuel data? Does it come from
the engine computer or the fuel guage? It is convinced
that inst mileage is 99mpg, range is 999 and avg is 0.0

all else seems to work correctly, including the fuel guage.

I would appreciate any comments. thanks, kstewart@mnsi.net

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 15 Apr 96 15:53:05
Subject: RE:Hazy XJ40 Headlamp lens

Kirby wrote:

Again, I haven’t handled one of these assemblies myself, but I find it
rather difficult to believe that the haziness cannot be fixed by removing
the bulb, pouring some cleaner or solvent into the hole, and sloshing it
around. Why won’t this work?

I would advise strongly against this, because the reflecting surface in the
headlamp is vapour-deposited aluminium and only a few molecules thick. This is
horribly vulnerable, as I found out the hard way once, trying to polish a
motorcycle headamp reflector. Even the very weak alkaline in ordinary soapsuds
could dull it. Incidentally, this is why we’re told not to install a new bulb
with bare fingers; the heat of the bulb evaporates the fingerprint grease and
creates a film of dust-adhesive on the reflector, which can’t be removed.

Possibly undiluted medical alcohol could be used, but I’d try it on a junk
unit first…

- Jan

From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 17:30:59 +1000 (EST)
Subject: XJ rear end backlash

Hi everyone,

thanks to those who replied to my original query regarding excess backlash
in my XJ rear. I have since had a basic check done by a suspension place
around the corner, and much to my short lived delight, it doesn’t appear
to have any major problems apart from worn bits that are known to wear.

Basically I really nedd to replace every bush that I haven’t yet replaced
as well as the RH rear wheel bearings (remember that I changed the LH set
not to long ago), side diff seals and probably some of the uni joints.

I guess that this will be a candidate for removing the complete rear end.

I’m almost tempted to pay someone to work on my car now that I have a full
time commitment (yes, I decided that 8.5 years of uni is enough and that
I should join the workforce). Has anyone heard of complete change over
XJ rear ends or had quotes to do the complete job (diff, seals, uni joints,
bushes, brakes and bearings) ???

Ta
Robert

Robert Dingli   r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au

Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **

From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 17:39:17 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S ECU Open/Closed Loop

Kirby asks,

So, why does the ECU clearly behave DIFFERENTLY at idle than at any other
throttle position?

Modern efi system designers put a lot of effort into controlling the idle
region of an engine’s performance. It makes a great impression on new car
buyers.

There are various efi and igniton control strategies used on electronically
controlled systems. The system I’ve implemented on my '74 XJ actually
draws no distinction between idle and any other operating condition apart
from using the part of the fuel and ignition timing table that applies to
that condition. For my engine, I have to run the system slightly richer
than stoichiometric to achieve a smooth idle for example.

What particular charateristics are different when your engine is idling?

regards,
Robert

Robert Dingli   r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au

Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **

From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 17:50:51 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S ECU Open/Closed Loop

Hi Kirby,

Still doesn’t answer a question I have: which way is which? I thought that
the O2 sensor actually sensed oxygen, thereby going to 1 volt when there
IS oxygen in the exhaust (lean condition) and 0 volts when there is no
oxygen (rich condition). However, an earlier discussion indicated that the
sensor actually provides a voltage comparison between one part of the sensor
reading exhaust and another part reading ambient air. I don’t believe this,
but would like to know for sure.

The voltage is near 1V when rich (or sensor too cold) and near 0V when lean.

Yes, the sensor responds to variations in the oxygen concentration between
the two surfaces (in the exhaust and outside) by generating a voltage.

The closed loop system adds a perturbation to the base fuel rate so that the
O2 sensor voltage switches from low (0.1-0.3V) to high (0.7-0.9) levels at
a frequency of about 2Hz. This minimises the temperature dependence of the
sensor and allows the ECU to handle the information in a digital manner.

I understood that the ECU would tend to “surf” the border between rich and
lean, but I figured it would just move lean when the O2 sensor said rich and
rich when it said lean, and hence cycle back and forth according to its
feedback rate. This perturbation would seem unnecessary, and I really don’t
understand what this would have to do with the temperature dependence of the
sensor or the digital processing of data.

Your understanding of how the system reacts is correct. It just depends on
how the algorithm is implemented in software. Don’t forget that such a
system will revert back and forth between open and closed loop depending
on how it is designed. The difference between the two operating conditions
should be small so that only a small trim is required to operate at lambda 1.
You can’t solely rely on the (slow) output of an oxygen sensor.

Creating more questions than answers,

Robert

Robert Dingli   r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au

Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **

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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 15 April 1996 Volume 02 : Number 039

From: Craig Tiano ctiano@voicenet.com
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 09:09:59 -0400
Subject: starting a car sitting for 2 years?

When I bought my '70 Daimler (4.2 dual carbed engine), the engine had just
been rebuilt. However, the rest of the car was disassembled and the beast
was referred to as an “agressive restoration project”. The engine was
“runnable” by holding a bottle of gasoline up in the air and letting gravity
carry it to the twin carbs, since the fuel pumps were both non-functional
and the fuel tanks were out, sitting in the back seat. Knowing I couldn’t
get to the car for 6+ months (now actually 20+ months), I drained the carbs,
drained the water, drained and replaced the brake fluid, and drained the
oil. I replaced the oil with fresh and rotated the engine 5 full revolutions
before considering it “stored”. Fast forward through the interior
re-assembly, exterior work, hooking up the fuel system refilling the
radiator, etc… to the present. The oil I put in before storing is still as
fresh as it was, so I didn’t change it.

I put in a fresh battery, turned the engine by hand over 3 times (which
seemed more difficult than I remember doing it 2 years ago), and attempted
to start it.
The starter cranks very…very…very…slowwwwwllllyyyyy…
Jumper cables to a running car in place. The starter cranks
very…very…very…slowwwwwllllyyyyy… Looks like the starter is
drawing a huge amount of current, since the interior lights not only dim,
but go out completely when the starter cranks.

It’s obviously not going to start nicely. Suggestions? My first thought is
to pull the starter and bench test it, but if you know how the 4.2 litre is
stuffed in and the starter is positioned, you’ll know why I’m looking for
other suggestions…
Craig Tiano

homepage: http://www.voicenet.com/~ctiano
email: ctiano@voicenet.com

American Eskimo Dogs, Photography,
Antique Cars, HTML/CGI/Datacomm guru

------------------------------

From: "J.W. Beckmeyer" <73131.3076@compuserve.com>
Date: 15 Apr 96 09:31:34 EDT
Subject: RE:Hazy XJ40 Headlamp lens

Hi all,

Kirby and Jan had a couple of excellent suggestions regarding the XJ40 hazy
headlight syndrome...

Kirby Palm wrote:

>> I find it rather difficult to believe that the haziness cannot
>>be fixed by removing the bulb, pouring some cleaner or solvent
>>into the hole, and sloshing it around.  Why won't this work?

Kirby,

I think you're on the right track.  This would be the easiest and fastest fix.
However, I was not able to find any household chemicals handy that would do the
job.  I tried the usual suspects: Various window cleaners, vinegar, water,
alcohol, all to no avail. Tuner cleaner and brake cleaner were of no help
either. :-)

After trying the above, I tossed this plan in favor of taking the units apart.
Reasons:

1. Some chemicals *may* be harmful to the reflector surface.  I knew that if I
ruined the reflector, the game was over. I wasn't in the mood to try more exotic
cleaners for this reason.  I fully believe that a suitable cleaning agent *is*
out there...I just don't know what it is and I only had two very limited
opportunities to experiment. Perhaps some of the other XJ40 owners can pick up
that ball here and find something that works.

2. After thinking things over, I thought that the best thing to do was try to
"reverse" the process the factory used to build the unit.  After doing some
exploratory surgery, I found that removing a little plastic was the only thing
keeping me from doing just that.  This "surgery" was, IMHO, the most dangerous
part of this whole operation. Once it was done and I knew what do, everything
went quite fast and was, in fact, pretty easy.

Kirby, about the cut plastic...yes, it was discarded.  Didn't think of using
aluminum tape...good idea!  However, I'm not sure if this is really necessary
and don't feel inclined to remove the units at this time to do it as the seal
that I made is intact and functioning.  How long it will last is a matter for
speculation right now...I'll get back to you in a year or two.  A consideration:
the plastic that I removed serves (as far as I can tell)  no purpose except to
provide a guide in mating up the lens and reflector.  There was no adhesive
attached to it.  

>>If I had this thing apart, I'd be sorely tempted to put some
>>Rain-X on the inside surface of the glass. 

Hindsight = 20/20 and all that.  Good idea and worth a try.  Should the
opportunity present itself to me again, I'll do it.

Jan W. wrote:

>> If it's condensation, <snip>

It wasn't condensation.  It was very dry.  

A curious note:  While the lens was hazed over, the reflector had *no* visible
defects and appeared to be in great shape! No haze or film on it at all.  This
raises some interesting questions:  why the lens and not the reflector?  Could
it be that this haze business had nothing to do with condensation but, in fact,
was caused by the heat produced by the bulbs reacting with something that was
inadvertently left on the lens or bulb during manufacture?

Best regards,
Jim Beckmeyer    Union CIty, MI USA
e-mail: 73131.3076@compuserve.com
90 Jaguar XJ-40-Sovereign
60 Jaguar MK II

------------------------------

From: "Robert A. Bagramian" <robtbagr@umich.edu>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 96 08:58:23 -0500
Subject: e-type tonneau

Can anyone give me a reasonable source for a tonneau cover for my 70
E-type roadster series II  6 cylinder?    Am looking for one that is
inexpensive if possible and even used if available.... Any ideas on how
to make one?  I understand they hook under the rear top chrome hooks and
have snaps replacing several dash vent screws behind the windscreen.
Perhaps only two actual snaps into the body on either side near the
doors are necessary.....  Any help or leads are appreciated....  
Bob Bagramian

------------------------------

From: "Himes,John W." <jwh@dw.att.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 96 07:54:00 PDT
Subject: Smoking

Kirby wrote:

>During the meeting I attended with the Jaguar club in Denver, there was 
much
>discussion involving cars that smoke.  Apparently Colorado has laws against
>"visible emissions" -- although I couldn't determine how that applied to
>diesel trucks.  In any case, the suggestion was made that the use of
>synthetic oil could reduce or eliminate visible smoke from oil-burning 
cars.

>I find it an interesting enough concept to pose the question to this group.
>I'm sure none of us would consider such a method of avoiding troubles with
>those environment-protecting laws we all love and would properly rebuild 
our
>own cars at the first sign of tailpipe smoke, but for the benefit of those
>who must postpone that overhaul: will using synthetic oil really reduce or
>eliminate oil-burning smoke?

I do not know about using synthetic oils.  If you have leaky valves or 
piston rings, the thin oil will still get by and the combustion chamber has 
to do something with it.  I have a 72 Mustang with a 305 that needs the 
heads to be rebuilt, if not the entire engine.  My way around the emissions 
in Colorado, is after cleaning the plugs, change the oil and add 2 cans of 
CD2 in the white can.  ( if you try and shake it, it makes no sound )
This stuff has the consistency of honey.  This pretty much keeps the car 
from visibly smoking.  Even though it does not need it, I also add a gallon 
of denatured alcohol to the tank.  This makes a very clean burning fuel. 
 The car does not run as good with that in the tank, but it passes emissions 
very well. ( meets 92 model year emissions standards )  Someday I will get 
around to correcting the problem, but hey, with the Jag running, who needs 
anything else? ( until the Jag is down again ;-)  )

It was nice to meet Kirby and his wife.  Very nice people.

John Himes
88 XJ-S 93K miles

------------------------------

From: "Tracy A. Ferrell" <tracy@brooktree.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 07:11:04 -0700
Subject: XJ rear end backlash

Robert Dingli asked:
>Has anyone heard of complete change over
>XJ rear ends or had quotes to do the complete 
>job (diff, seals, uni joints, bushes, brakes 
>and bearings) ????

Before I recently had the differential re-built in my Series III XJ6, I
looked into all the alternatives. One of them was to buy a complete rear
end assembly for $2600US from a place that advertises in Hemmings. The 
assembly includes everything down to brake calipers and pads.

I ended up paying $1800US to have a local shop rebuild it.

Tracy A. Ferrell      tracy@brooktree.com  in Sunny San Diego, CA, USA

------------------------------

From: "Tracy A. Ferrell" <tracy@brooktree.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 07:11:20 -0700
Subject: 7" Headlights

Hi there,
This real cool Australian dude (whose initials are Robert Dingli) sent me a
kit of parts to convert the outside headlights of my Series III XJ6 to the
proper 7" size. It looks great! Why did Jaguar have to change them to 5.75"
to import them into the US? Was it some safety issue or did the US think
they were doing the consumer a favor by making all the lights the same size?
I remember a short-lived discussion on this list about a year ago, but I
don't remember anyone really knowing the answer then.

Tracy A. Ferrell      tracy@brooktree.com  in Sunny San Diego, CA, USA 

------------------------------

From: henning@fp.com (Eric Henning)
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 10:29:02 -0400
Subject: '74 XJ12L For Sale

For those in the Philadelphia area there is a '74 XJ12L, grn/tan,
74k mi, $3500/bo   (215) 332-7381

this is was in local paper.  this is not my car, you now know all i know.

Just thought someone might be interested.

Eric
henning@fp.com

------------------------------

From: Zoran Mitrovic <100136.3714@compuserve.com>
Date: 15 Apr 96 10:34:07 EDT
Subject: Trip to Vicarage

Dear friends

My wounded SIII XJ6, my girlfriend and me have done it! We have come back from
our trip from Switzerland to England and back. You remember, my wounded cat had
(you see I write in the past) a big problem with the gearbox, so I had decided
to replace it at Vicarage in Wolverhampton, England.

Before leaving, there was a sad episode which explains why I was so eager to go
to England for my car. Last July the air conditioning ceased to work. I went to
the official Jaguar dealer to fix it. They said there was no leakage just there
was no freon left and refilled it (600$). I didn't use the car during the
winter, but one week before my trip the air conditioning ceased to work again.
On a Tuesday I left the car in the garage of the official Jaguar dealer. Wednesday in the morning I called, they just said they haven't looked at the car yet. In the afternoon they said there was a tube which was leaking it had to be replaced. In the evening they called me to say there is no such tube in Switzerland they have to order it from England and this takes 3 weeks. I said o.k. they should just refill it and they said it would work for about 6 months. Thursday morning I called if I can have the car in the afternoon, (they knew from the beginning I was leaving on Saturday), they said, no, but in the evening! In the afternoon, they called me to say they have a big problem, there was nearly no oil in the engine and the transmission is very bad, I would never make it to England (because of the transmission). And there are some O-rings which are defect and they can't refill it because they don't have those rings in store, but they could have it Friday. You know I was getting angry, and told them that they should not bother about the transmission and that they just have to refill this air conditioning. Friday morning they called me, that they had very bad news, they had noticed that the compressor was leaking and had to be replaced, but they could have it only on monday. Now I was furious and told them that this seems strange to me that they notice this only after 4 days and that they should just connect everything and I will come to pick up the car. O.K. this was the prolog. So without air conditioning we started towards England (We just needed the heater) The car behaved well, I didn't press it to much the cruising speed was about 150 Km/h. The channel we crossed by train through the new tunnel. It was amazing fast! So that we arrived to Windsor same day! I never thought I could come that far in one day. Next day we visited Oxford and then came to Vicarage. First impression was kind of astonished. It is a small garage with not much place, but then it got better and better. We had a warm reception by Mr.Woolhead his wife and the whole crew. They were very much prepared for our car and first he made us visit the garage. He showed us that they had also a second facility, so it wasn't that small as I thought. There were two MK II they were changing to Vicarage specifications and one E type. At the end he showed us the best: A Mk2 they changed to a cabriolet. Absolutely stunning the work which is behind this car. Certainly a dream-car. We looked then after my car, and he noted everything what was to do. And the list was long.... Transmission, compressor, tyres, brakes, etc...... Then they arranged us a Ford Mondeo TurboDiesel Rent-a-car. And we continued our trip through England. The Ford was much fun to drive and I have to tell you that english are great drivers, nearly everybody on the wrong side, and no accidents! It was the southwest part of England we enjoyed. Already on the second day Mr.Woolhead called me on my cellular phone that everything was going well with the car. 9 days later we came back to Wolverhampton, enjoyed a very nice talk with the Vicarage people and went through all the points which were done at my car. Even the least important thing was done. A final test drive impressed me and I have the very strong feeling that my car was in very best hands. The trip back was easy. Car behaving better then ever even at high speed on German Autobahn. Best regards Zoran Mitrovic P.S. And they said I have a beautiful car! From: "Shelly Bolden, Ext. 4770" <bolden@BBN.COM> Date: Mon, 15 Apr 96 10:33:10 EDT Subject: Re:  Headliner Repair Reference headliner replacement: My husband recently purchased new headliner for our boat. He called the manufacturer who recommended 3M #10 spray adhesive. There is also a 3M #7 (or #77, can't remember), be sure NOT to use this as it is not recommended. Regards, Shelly 90' Sovereign From: are@vinn.no (Are Lorentsen) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 16:56:18 +0200 Subject: O2-sensor and sunroof  Hi! No answer to the mail I posted it last week on this subject, so I try   again in case it didn't reach out (or maibe my inglish wass two bad). here goes 1: My 82 XJ6 is an US-model, and was originally fitted with a   catalyst-system. When taken to Norway in -89, the catalyst was removed,   and the exhaust-system was replaced with an european one (state   regulations in Norway does not require catalyst on cars produced before   1989). When I bought this car last year I found to my surprise that the   O2-sensor was still there, WELDED ON THE SURFACE OF THE MANIFOLD, thus   measuring in fresh air. I is still in that position, and I wonder what to do about it. Should I   put it back in again? If so, I will have to drill a hole and weld a nut   on to get it back in. The engine seems to perform very well, but fuel consumption is a bit   high. Since the O2-sensor now measures outside air, will it lead to   higher consumption because the ECU is giving more fuel to burn all that   oxygen? Does it make sense?  2: The sunroof opens up only 10 cm, and then it stops. It doesn't move   slower and finally stops, it just stops. Sometimes it won't close again   like if a fuse is blown, but if I wait a while and try again it will   close. Any input will be appreciated. Regards Are Lorentsen Narvik, Norway E-mail: are@vinn.no From: "Himes,John W." <jwh@dw.att.com> Date: Mon, 15 Apr 96 09:06:00 PDT Subject: Trip Computer Kirk Stewart wrote:

>Question: how does the trip computer get it's fuel data? Does it come from
>the engine computer or the fuel guage?  It is convinced
>that inst mileage is 99mpg, range is 999 and avg is 0.0

Not sure if this answers what you are asking about.  The Instant fuel 
mileage takes readings on 5 second intervals.  Lets say you are traveling 75 
mph, put the car into nutral to let it coast and your INSTANT fuel mileage 
will be very high.  (same happens when you just take your foot off the pedal 
)  If you "floor it" from a standing stop to get on the highway, your 
INSTANT fuel mileage will be very low.  I do not believe this is a error. 
 This is the approximate fuel mileage you are getting at that instant, not 
your overall average.  The thing I do not like about the trip computer, ( or 
it may be the odometer ) is that it does not agree with the odometer 
mileage.  If most of my driving is highway, they are very close to each 
other, if I do a lot of city type driving, the trip computer reports less 
then the odometer does.  This could have to do with the transducer sending 
out few pulses at low speed and the differences in conversion from digital 
to analog by the odometer, or the trip computer missing pulses at low speed. 
 I do not know.

John Himes
88 XJ-S 93K miles ;-)

------------------------------

From: elvis@gac.edu (Paul Estenson)
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 10:36:08 -0500
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #36

Kirby,

My Kitty is sick.  I have a '84 XJ6. Last Saturday the car stalled several
times.  It would start back up, but it stall again unless I hit the gas and
got it moving.  Is the problem my ignition coil or could there be another
fault.

Paul

------------------------------

From: BSherw@aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 11:42:34 -0400
Subject: [none]

frank@westnet.com)>  wrote:  

>Does anyone out there know the correct settings for a Mallory distributor?<

 I've always had good luck by just setting both sets of points at .022;  the
extra points take care of the necessary dwell time.  Not worth trying to set
a specific "dwell".
Brian Sherwood, 85 XJ-6

------------------------------

From: BSherw@aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 11:42:42 -0400
Subject: wind noise, XJ6 door

 "Peter W. Karpien" <100306.3514@compuserve.com>  wrote about wind noise from
his '85 XJ6 door.

Peter- check the weather-strip which seals the door to the frame.  My '85 had
gaps of about 1/4 inch in a couple of places where the ends of the strip butt
together, at the top of the window frame. Sealed with black RTV  (let the
door set open overnite, though).   :)
Brian Sherwood, '85 XJ-6

------------------------------

From: B.Orban@zds.com (Bela Orban)
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 12:10:40 -0400
Subject: DC Are Jag Club, Flex plate question

   I am just catching up on my digest and saw somebody asking about a 
   Washington, D.C. area Jag club. Here is the info:

   Nation's Capital Jaguar Owners Club
   P.O. Box 10188
   Silver Spring, MD 20914

   The point of contact for membership is:

   Dick Clark (703) 978-9435

   I also have a question for the list.

   Some time ago somebody was writing about the ticking noise caused by loose 
   rivets on the flex plate. I tried to search the archives but it's quite 
   impossible to find this article. Could someone send this post to me?

   Now that I got my '73 XJ 12 out of winter storage, it seems to have developed 
   a ticking noise that comes from the flywheel area, so I am very interested in 
   finding out how to fix it.
   (It is _NOT_ valve train related. I just checked/adjusted the valve 
   clearances and checked the compressions. All is well.)

   I am in digest mode, so you may want to send any reply to my e-mail address 
   below.

   Happy motoring,

   Bela Orban '73 XJ 12
   b.orban@zds.com

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 12:16:08 -0400
Subject: Re: XJ-S ECU Open/Closed Loop

>What particular charateristics are different when your engine is idling?

Specifically, when you disconnect the throttle pushrods so you can move the
pot without moving the butterflies, the engine makes a distinct change in
sound and RPM when the pot is moved off of idle.  If both idle and running
were a closed-loop feedback operation holding stochiometric via O2 sensor
signal, one would expect no change.

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: Jim Goring <jgoring@ccnet.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 10:03:39 +0000
Subject: pricey freon!

Zoran Mitrovic wrote:
>
> Last July the air conditioning ceased to work. I went to
> the official Jaguar dealer to fix it. They said there was no leakage just there
> was no freon left and refilled it (600$).

$600 for some freon?!!

Maybe prices are a little different in Switzerland, but this might have 
been a tip that this
particular garage had a few beople with boat payments to make that 
month....

otherwise, sounds

------------------------------

From: ClaytB3@aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 13:22:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Headliner Repair

As I'm getting ready to again redo my headliner, I've noticed that I've been
using the 3M #77 spray adhesive, not the #10. Now my search begins for 3M #10
or some other super-heavy-duty-never-come-unstuck spray adhesive.
I've been doing it in two parts:
1. Glue new foam to the fibreglass, let it dry.
2. Glue new fabric to the foam.
I'm now considering just glueing the fabric to the fibreglass. This would
also give me about another 1/8" of headroom!!

Clayton Betlyon
85 XJ-S

------------------------------

From: Quang Ngo <qlogic!ngo@netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 10:49:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Speedometer

Hello,

When does the speedometer flip over to 000000?  When it reaches 999999?

Thanks,
- -Quang (ngo@logic.com)

------------------------------

From: Quang Ngo <qlogic!ngo@netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 10:51:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Crankshaft speed sensor

I have an 89 XJ6 and I often see the warning "Feuling Failure #1" which
has something to do with the crankshaft speed sensor.  I just replaced
a new sensor but the warning still shows up like usual.  I checked the
wires and they seem to be fine.  What else could be wrong?  What else should
I check next?

Thanks,
- -Quang (ngo@qlogic.com)

------------------------------

From: Don40799@aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 14:16:50 -0400
Subject: [none]

ed up a nasty habit of stalling in hot weather.
 When pushing for acceleration from a stop, the engine will first start the
car rolling, and then will tend to cut out completely.  Only by letting up on
the accelerator, while coasting, can the engine be kept running (usually).
 If the A/C is turned "off," the engine will cut out momentarily a time or
two, but will usually recover and move on.  Operation at higher speeds (20 to
80 MPH), or in cooler weather, seems to be unaffected.  Coolant temperature
seems to be unaffected, which rules out frozen centrifugal weights in the
distributer (or does it?). 

Does anyone have a suggestion as to where I should start looking for the
problem?

Thanks,
Don Snyder
XJ-S 
'73 E-Type

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 14:40:48 -0400
Subject: Re: e-type tonneau

>Can anyone give me a reasonable source for a tonneau cover for my 70
>E-type roadster series II  6 cylinder?    Am looking for one that is
>inexpensive if possible and even used if available.... Any ideas on how
>to make one?

While visiting in Orlando a couple months ago, I was in a building supply
store called Builder's Square.  Stores like this (Lowe's, Home Depot, etc.)
have been having an escalating battle over fasteners the past few years,
each trying to outdo the other in selection.  So, I'm looking through the
vast collection of little drawers of fasteners and small hardware, and I
find that they have an entire rack dedicated to automotive fasteners.
What's more, one set of drawers has the "Lift-The-Dot" fasteners that all us
British convertible owners have grown to know and love.  One drawer had the
part that is crimped onto the fabric, and another drawer had the little post
that screws onto the bodywork.

That's right, a building supply store in Florida.  I couldn't believe it either.

I dunno if the E-type uses Lift-The-Dot fasteners, but I can't say I've ever
seen them for sale anywhere else, period.  And that was just one example of
the stuff in this store, it probably had just about anything else needed as
well.

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #39
*******************************

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jag-lovers-digest          Tuesday, 16 April 1996       Volume 02 : Number 040

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 14:40:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Smoking

>Even though it does not need it, I also add a gallon 
>of denatured alcohol to the tank.  This makes a very clean burning fuel. 
> The car does not run as good with that in the tank, but it passes emissions 
>very well. ( meets 92 model year emissions standards )

Ooooh!  Another interesting suggestion!  Anybody else subject to emissions
testing that's tried this?

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 14:40:43 -0400
Subject: Re: 7" Headlights

>This real cool Australian dude (whose initials are Robert Dingli) sent me a
>kit of parts to convert the outside headlights of my Series III XJ6 to the
>proper 7" size. It looks great! Why did Jaguar have to change them to 5.75"
>to import them into the US? Was it some safety issue or did the US think
>they were doing the consumer a favor by making all the lights the same size?

Yes, and yes.  It was a hell of a fight to get the US to allow rectangular
headlights!  And it was a few years after that before they lowered the
requirement that headlights be "sealed beam".  Now they allow any shape
headlight (only changed because of the energy crisis -- custom headlights
save fuel due to aerodynamics), the 7" are no longer illegal, but they still
restrict the number of headlights (four maximum) and wattage (55W low beam,
60W high beam - I think).  

I suppose I can understand the wattage limit on low beams, but why should
there be any limit on high beam wattage?

I also find it interesting that apparently high beams are limited to 60W
each regardless of whether there are two high beams or four.  With two
headlights you can't see squat unless you violate this law.  Fortunately,
I've never heard of anyone being cited for such violations, and my wife's
2-headlight Honda CRX now has 90W/130W H-4 bulbs in it which work very well.

Years back, when the "sealed beam" requirement was still in effect, I bought
a pair of headlights from J.C. Whitney that met the requirement.  They were,
in fact, standard size headlights with H-4 bulbs in them.  But they had a
rubber cover securely glued completely over the bulb and socket, leaving
only the terminals exposed, so that they met the criteria for "sealed beam".
Of course, as soon as a bulb fails, you just peel the rubber off and pitch
it in the trash and replace the H-4 bulb.

And while I don't own an XJ6, I agree that the 7" lights the car was
designed for look a BUNCH better than the smaller light with the hokey
spacer around it.  I dunno why all XJ6 owners aren't making this mod.

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: alindsay@fit.edu (ALEX H. LINDSAY)
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 15:00:10 -0400
Subject: E-Type Progress

        Hi all,
        Things have been progressing on the restoration of my '63 E-Type. I
have been stripping the body over the last several weeks and have just about
completed the process. 
        About a month ago, I had constructed a hydraulic lift to support the
body shell. This device allows me to raise and lower the body about two feet
as well as move it around the garage. Think of it as the mother of all
scissor jacks on wheels. 
        This past weekend I finally lifted the body with the jack and
removed the rear suspension and started on the front suspension. I hope to
have the front suspension/subframe off this week. After that the only thing
left on the body shell is the fuel tank, one bumper and the headliner. After
that, it is time to start cutting and welding. 
        One question, how do you remove the headliner from the roof? It
appears to extend behind the metal piece that holds the headliner trim in
place. Is the fabric glued directly to the roof or is there a backing board
of some kind? (I guess that's two questions.)
        Keep you posted on future progress.

Alex H. Lindsay

------------------------------

From: "White, Dick" <white@msgate.columbiasc.ncr.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 96 14:56:00 edt
Subject: RE: Jaguar directory -- NOT - well almost

Mark,

The URL for All Jaguar Clubs is http://www.intex.net/~cci/index.html, 
although the link to the list of the Jag clubs seems to be missing at the 
moment (I will send Jon an e-mail).  But while you visit the site you can 
look at the pictures I took of my 3.8 S-Type freshly painted head ('B') and 
block.  I'd like to hear comments about some of the mysterious stampings and 
cast marks.   Once I started looking for them I was surprised to find out 
how many there were.  After sending these pics to Jon I found even more 
stampings on the exhaust side of the head.

Regards,
Dick White
Columbia, SC
'64 3.8 S-Type
'58 XK150 FHC

 ----------
>From: GrateflJag
>To: jag-lovers
>Subject: Jaguar directory -- NOT!
>Date: Saturday, April 13, 1996 10:43PM
>
>http://www.intex.net/personal/cci/jagdir.html isn't anymore.  Sorry for the
>bum steer.
>
>Mark
>

------------------------------

From: spe00@eng.amdahl.com (Silas Elash)
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 96 13:34:58 PDT
Subject: Re: Mk II question

Along this thread,

My MK2 had air, BUT it originally came with a automatic.  This was changed
to the fully synchro 4sp MOD unit.  So the evidence I have is that the
automatic cars did have the option of the air (factory authorized add on).
Don't know about the original manual trans cars.

Silas

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 17:15:07 -0400
Subject: Stalling 

>ed up a nasty habit of stalling in hot weather.

Why does your message start in the middle of a word?  No idea what come
before this line.

>Coolant temperature
>seems to be unaffected, which rules out frozen centrifugal weights in the
>distributer (or does it?). 

No such luck; centrifugal advance should always have an eye kept on it.  If
the cooling system is up to par, it may be able to keep the coolant at the
proper temp no matter what, and a seized advance will burn your pistons
anyway -- without the coolant ever exceeding boiling temp!

Wonder if this is not clear to everyone?  Perhaps it should be clarified in
my booklet.

However, this particular set of symptoms does not indicate a stuck advance
to me.  Seems to me either an ignition or EFI problem.

>Does anyone have a suggestion as to where I should start looking for the
>problem?

Might as well start checking EFI components, including temperature sensors,
throttle pot, etc.

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 17:15:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Headliner Repair

>I've been doing it in two parts:
>1. Glue new foam to the fibreglass, let it dry.
>2. Glue new fabric to the foam.

One wonders what you're doing.  In these parts, headliner comes from the
factory as a single product, fabric and foam together.

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 96 14:22:20 PDT
Subject: RE:Hazy XJ40 Headlamp lens

>2.  Replace the entire headlamp unit.  I understand that prices for the unit
>(new) run US $300 and up, each. or,

What? you mean everytime one of my headlights go out, I need to pay $300
to fix it?

- -- 
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Roger Peng                                     (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Quang Ngo <qlogic!ngo@netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 14:47:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE:Hazy XJ40 Headlamp lens

My left headlight went out last month.  I went to Kragen's auto part and
picked up a headlight for $4.  It works fine.

- -Quang (ngo@qlogic.com)

On Mon, 15 Apr 1996 cadev6.intel.com!rpeng@netcomsv.netcom.com wrote:

> 
> >2.  Replace the entire headlamp unit.  I understand that prices for the unit
> >(new) run US $300 and up, each. or,
> 
> What? you mean everytime one of my headlights go out, I need to pay $300
> to fix it?
> 
> -- 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Roger Peng                                     (408)765-7863
> Intel Corporation
> Design Technology, Physical CAD
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 

------------------------------

From: Joe Bunik <jbunik@bayarea.net>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 16:45:27 -0700
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #36

Paul Estenson wrote:
> 
> Kirby,
> 
> My Kitty is sick.  I have a '84 XJ6. Last Saturday the car stalled several
> times.  It would start back up, but it stall again unless I hit the gas and
> got it moving.  Is the problem my ignition coil or could there be another
> fault.
> 
> Paul

I had a stalling problem with an XJS similar to this.  It would stall 
when running, start up again and either run with no problems or stall 
5-10 minutes or 1-2 days later.  It was the cold start sensor trying to 
enrich the mixture when it wasn't necessary.  A sensor replacement cured 
the problem.  This was a major problem for the dealer to diagnose since 
the problem was intermttent.  He played russian roulette changing 
sensors until he found the right one (fortunately I only had to pay for 
the final solution but it took 1-2 weeks of searching).

Don't know if this applies to an XJ6 but...

------------------------------

From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 96 19:46:39 EDT
Subject: XJ rear end backlash

From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO  ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
*** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FC42
*** INTERNET ADDRESS  -  SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM  *****************
Subject: XJ rear end backlash
 Robert, and all other interested jagophiles here in the land of Oz,

 Last year I had the whole rear end done here in Sydney. I shopped
around the jag specialists, and got prices ranging from $3000 to
$4500 to do the whole rear end.
 I tracked down a diff specialist here in Sydney called Gradan Gears.
(my mechanic sends the diff to them to re-build when he is doing a
rear end overhaul). One guy there is a dickhead pain in the ass, but
the other guy(who does all the diff work) is great, and very helpful.
 So instead of having my mechanic do all the work of dropping the
cradle, disassembling everything, and sending them the diff, I asked
them if they could do that part as well. They said yes.
 I then went shopping, and bought one new trailing arm, complete with new
bushes, new mounts for the cradle, new shocks, and some other assorted
new bits which I can't remember at the moment. I also got a late
model 2nd hand Diff Centre, which was in great condition, with almost
zero wear for around $100.(I had to buy the new trailing arm as the old
one had hit a gutter or rock or something, and was dented. No way we
could get new bushes into it. The other one was fine, and only needed
new bushes.)
 All the bits ended up costing me around $500-$600. Gradan Gears
dropped the cradle, pulled it apart, cleaned all the bits, and then
completely rebuilt the diff, with all new seals, bearings etc, then
they rebuilt the whole cradle with all the new parts I bought, and
put the car back on,...wait for it...... all for $750 including parts :-)
 Total complete rear end overhaul for less than $1500 (which is around
US$1200). My only regret was not putting new springs on. They seemed
ok, but they are definitely sagging now...Oh well, can do them myself
on a saturday without too much hassle...:-)
 Robert, good luck in getting your rear end done....if you want to save
yourself a grand or so, do it the way I did it....doesn't take long to
shop around via the yellow pages....I've found that the two most
outstanding parts suppliers here in Sydney for price are JAGARA Spares,
which is best by a mile, and run by a former Jaguar employee who knows
his stuff like no other, and the other is CATHOUSE spares, which for some
things is cheaper, just depends on what you're after at the time.
 Phone number for JAGARA is 02-792 7460  (019-602 908). Don't have the
number for cathouse with me.

***************************************************************
***************************************************************
REGARDS.......Shane
SYDVM1(SHANEM)         SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM
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From: robert dingli <r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU>
Message-Id: <199604150730.RAA28169@mullian.ee.mu.OZ.AU>
Subject: XJ rear end backlash
To: jag-lovers@sn.no (Jaguar Mail List)
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 17:30:59 +1000 (EST)
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Hi everyone,

thanks to those who replied to my original query regarding excess backlash
in my XJ rear.  I have since had a basic check done by a suspension place
around the corner, and much to my short lived delight, it doesn't appear
to have any major problems apart from worn bits that are known to wear.

Basically I really nedd to replace every bush that I haven't yet replaced
as well as the RH rear wheel bearings (remember that I changed the LH set
not to long ago), side diff seals and probably some of the uni joints.

I guess that this will be a candidate for removing the complete rear end.

I'm almost tempted to pay someone to work on my car now that I have a full
time commitment (yes, I decided that 8.5 years of uni is enough and that
I should join the workforce).  Has anyone heard of complete change over
XJ rear ends or had quotes to do the complete job (diff, seals, uni joints,
bushes, brakes and bearings) ????

Ta
Robert
- --
    Robert Dingli   r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems    (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
     University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
**  he who dies with the most toys, wins  **

------------------------------

From: David J Shield <David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 96 16:55:00 PDT
Subject: a couple of things

Hi All,

To a couple of threads:

As to de-hazing XJ40 lenses, while I haven't seen them with my own 
eyeballs, the take-apart and rebuild approach sounds like how I'd 
approach it.  I'd imagine that pouring cleaner in and swishing it around 
would attack the extremely thin and shiny reflective coating, and 
ultimately dim the headlamps.  Alcohol or other solvent would probably 
just re-deposit the hazy substance onto the reflector. 

As to Robert's general question about the rear end on an XJ, here's my 
experience:

The differential became noisy and was getting noisier.  Besides that, 
the car had developed a kind of annoying rear-end steer that I hated 
(take a long sweeping turn at say 70MPH and it would feel like the rear 
wanted to come around to the front).  Might have just been rear-end 
alignment but I didn't know.  Anyway, my favored Jag mechanic bid on the 
job and I awarded it to him.  Here's what he did:

- - Replaced the diff with a rebuilt.  $650, I recall.
- - While he was at it I asked him to put in a limited slip, for an extra  
  $300.  When you see the total you'll agree it was a small deal.
- - Replaced all 4 rear shocks with KYB gas shocks (I should have spent    
  more money here).  Parts cost ~$60 each.  I'd done the fronts a year   
  prior.
- - Replaced every single bushing.
- - Replaced the pinion seals.
- - Replaced the rear brake pads, didn't need to replace the discs because 
  they'd been replaced two years prior by a mechanic to whom I'll never  
  return.
- - Replaced the handbrake cable and re-installed the mechanism that acts  
  on the brakes correctly.  See reference to mechanic immediately above.
- - Set the alignment properly.
- - Told me that everything else back there (U-joints etc.) was fine.

Grand total was somewhere between $2,200 and $2,800, I don't remember.  
This was 2 years but only 10k miles ago.  

After spending so much I have a car with a quiet rear that tracks 
beautifully.  I had an opportunity during the rebuild to get a set of 
XJS radius arms and sway bar from Jaguar Heaven, for (I think) $250-300. 
This would have complemented the XJS sway bar I put in the front a year 
earlier.

I'm now running BF Goodrich Comp T/A VR235/60s.  A little noisy but they 
grip like crazy and really enhance the looks.  Does anyone have 
experience re-finishing the factory alloys?   The thick lacquer is 
chipping and looks crummy.  

David J. Shield
'84 XJ6 VDP (now for sale - I'm starting to look for an early E 
roadster, gotta be driveable, red preferred).

------------------------------

From: lwalden@ebmud.com (Lee Walden)
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 17:08:47 -0700
Subject: Re: Smoking

At 14:40 1996/04/15 -0400, Kirby Palm wrote:
>>Even though it does not need it, I also add a gallon 
>>of denatured alcohol to the tank.  This makes a very clean burning fuel. 
>> The car does not run as good with that in the tank, but it passes emissions 
>>very well. ( meets 92 model year emissions standards )
>
>Ooooh!  Another interesting suggestion!  Anybody else subject to emissions
>testing that's tried this?
>
>      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
>                       |  some rules must be broken.
>                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

A friend of mine always adds a couple of bottles of HEAT to his gas tank
before taking it in to be SMOGged.  His car hasn't failed yet.  It's a
1980's Ford.  Lee

------------------------------

From: Michael Frank <mfrank@westnet.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 21:42:34 -0400
Subject: Re: starting a car sitting for 2 years?

>It's obviously not going to start nicely. Suggestions? My first thought is
>to pull the starter and bench test it, but if you know how the 4.2 litre is
>stuffed in and the starter is positioned, you'll know why I'm looking for
>other suggestions...
>Craig Tiano

  Craig:

  First, you should plan on changing the oil soon. Although the oil has
never been run in, the volatile components, including detergent additives,
tend to evaporate over time. The oil also absorbs water and oxygen from the
atmosphere. 

   Next. Although you filled the sump before storing, this does nothing for
the upper engine area. The cylinder walls have dried out over time, and some
corrosion may have set in. You could have avoided this by spraying the
cylinders with heavy oil thru the spark plug holes. Now, if you manage to
start the engine dry, you risk wearing out the piston rings in very short
order. 

   To get the thing to start without further damage, pull out the spark
plugs and spray in a liberal amount of WD40. Allow this to sit overnight.
With any luck, the engine should turn free and can be started. Otherwise, a
ring job may be in order...

Be sure to check compression after it has been running for a while.

Mike Frank
1969 2+2 XKE 

------------------------------

From: Michael Frank <mfrank@westnet.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 21:42:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Smoking

At 07:54 AM 4/15/96 PDT, you wrote:
>
>Kirby wrote:
>
>>During the meeting I attended with the Jaguar club in Denver, there was 
>much
>>discussion involving cars that smoke.  Apparently Colorado has laws against
>>"visible emissions" -- although I couldn't determine how that applied to
>>diesel trucks.  In any case, the suggestion was made that the use of
>>synthetic oil could reduce or eliminate visible smoke from oil-burning 
>cars.
>
>>I find it an interesting enough concept to pose the question to this group.
>>I'm sure none of us would consider such a method of avoiding troubles with
>>those environment-protecting laws we all love and would properly rebuild 
>our
>>own cars at the first sign of tailpipe smoke, but for the benefit of those
>>who must postpone that overhaul: will using synthetic oil really reduce or
>>eliminate oil-burning smoke?
>
>I do not know about using synthetic oils.  If you have leaky valves or 
>piston rings, the thin oil will still get by and the combustion chamber has 
>to do something with it.  I have a 72 Mustang with a 305 that needs the 
>heads to be rebuilt, if not the entire engine.  My way around the emissions 
>in Colorado, is after cleaning the plugs, change the oil and add 2 cans of 
>CD2 in the white can.  ( if you try and shake it, it makes no sound )
>This stuff has the consistency of honey.  This pretty much keeps the car 
>from visibly smoking.  Even though it does not need it, I also add a gallon 
>of denatured alcohol to the tank.  This makes a very clean burning fuel. 
> The car does not run as good with that in the tank, but it passes emissions 
>very well. ( meets 92 model year emissions standards )  Someday I will get 
>around to correcting the problem, but hey, with the Jag running, who needs 
>anything else? ( until the Jag is down again ;-)  )
>
>It was nice to meet Kirby and his wife.  Very nice people.
>
>
>John Himes
>88 XJ-S 93K miles
>

------------------------------

From: Michael Frank <mfrank@westnet.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 21:42:36 -0400
Subject: Re: Smoking

At 07:54 AM 4/15/96 PDT, you wrote:

  Even though it does not need it, I also add a gallon 
>of denatured alcohol to the tank.  This makes a very clean burning fuel. 
> The car does not run as good with that in the tank, but it passes emissions 
>very well. ( meets 92 model year emissions standards )  Someday I will get 
>around to correcting the problem, but hey, with the Jag running, who needs 
>anything else? ( until the Jag is down again ;-)  )
>
>

John:

   Careful with that alcohol!!! The rubber components on early cars are not
meant for alcohol fuels. While your '88 may have been built in the age of
gasohol, folks with older cars (say, pre-'82) may find that carburetor
gaskets, hoses, and pump diaphragms may suddenly 'age' when subjected to
harsh alcohol fuels.

Mike Frank
1969 2+2 EType

------------------------------

From: SUKIENNICKI  ROBERT WIKTOR <sukienni@rintintin.Colorado.EDU>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 20:07:18 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: E-Type Head Compatibility?

I am certain that this question has come up recently. However, I could 
not find it in the archives.

Can a 3.8 E-Type head fit on a 4.2 block?  If so, what issues do I need 
to consider?

Thanks in advance,

Robert Sukiennicki
1967 E-Type 2+2

------------------------------

From: William Kroppe <kroppe@mich.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 22:13:18 -0400
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #38

turborat@atlcom.net said:

> Would fellow readers like to see all of the "subject" titles appear at the
> top of each volume?

I would love to see an index of subjects at the beginning of each digest.
I, too, suffer from not having the time to scroll through all the messages,
although nearly every one has tons of entertainment value, especially when
Larry Buja writes a heartrending treatise of Jaguar motoring experience, 
and other such stuff from other contributors.

(I loved the ongoing saga on lumps.)

B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6

------------------------------

From: William Kroppe <kroppe@mich.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 22:15:54 -0400
Subject: Re: XJ6 Book

JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu wrote:

> OK, Kirby, I will take up the challange and do the XJ6 book along the lines
> of your XJS book.  But I will need your input to keep me on the right 
> track.

Excellent work, Jim!  Three cheers.  Many thanks from me and I'm sure
many other list members.

B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6
@owner-jag-lovers-di1 wrote:

------------------------------

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #40
*******************************

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jag-lovers-digest          Tuesday, 16 April 1996       Volume 02 : Number 041

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: James Stapleton <73303.2013@compuserve.com>
Date: 15 Apr 96 22:08:41 EDT
Subject: Re: XJ6 carpet

- ---------- Forwarded Message ----------

From:	Nick Johannessen, INTERNET:nick@sn.no
TO:	James Stapleton, 73303,2013
DATE:	4/14/96 3:01 AM

RE:	Re: XJ6 carpet

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To: 73303.2013@CompuServe.COM
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Date: Sun, 14 Apr 1996 07:46:46 +0000
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Please repost to jag-lovers@sn.no

[ James Stapleton <73303.2013@CompuServe.COM> ]
| George Buonanno wrote,
| 
| >I am replacing the interior of my 1985 Jaguar XJ6. When I began removing the
| >carpeting from around the center console I noticed some kind of oil leaking
| >down inside of the car. What a mess. I am not currently losing any fluid
| >(oil or transmissioin) but I know that the heads were rebuilt a few thousand
| >miles before I purchased the car in January of this year. Has anyone run
| >into this problem before. Any ideas would be a help.
| 
| Does you're A/C work could be leaking oil as the system has a small
| amount of oil in it to lube the compressor.  Is this brake fluid 
| leaking under the pedals or is it just in the area of the console ?
| 
| Jim Stapleton
| 83 XJ6
| 
| 

- -- 
<<<  Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC  >>>     
<<<       Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto        >>> 
>>> The JagWeb  http://www.sn.no/~nick/jaguar.html <<<

------------------------------

From: James Stapleton <73303.2013@compuserve.com>
Date: 15 Apr 96 22:08:36 EDT
Subject: Re: Headliners

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RE:	Re: Headliners

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Please repost to jag-lovers@sn.no

[ James Stapleton <73303.2013@CompuServe.COM> ]
| A few people have asked about headliner replacement .
| A good source for the material is Bill Hirsch or BAS. both
| phone numbers are in Hemmings and if you don't have
| a copy email and I'll look up the numbers.  It cost about
| 100.00 for the correct fabric but you can get cheaper.
| 
| As far as the installation :
| Remove the entire headliner from the car( thru the left
| rear door opening) it's a very tight fit and it helps if the
| front seats are in the full recline position and the bottom
| of the rear seat is removed.
| 
| Set the headliner upside down on a table and start removing
| the fabric and foam from the shell.
| After all fabric is removed you can remove any foam that didn't
| come off with the fabric by gently rubbing with a wire brush.
| Get the shell as clean as possible.
| 
| Now the glue you want to use is contact cement and it should
| be sprayed on with a paint gun.
| For those who don't have access to a gun take the shell and the
| fabric to a trim shop and for 50-80 dollars you can have it installed.
| This is  a wise move anyway since with contact cement it's
| a one time shot :-{
| 
| Carefully reinstall the headliner.
| 
| Jim Stapleton
| 83 Xj6
| 
| 

- -- 
<<<  Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC  >>>     
<<<       Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto        >>> 
>>> The JagWeb  http://www.sn.no/~nick/jaguar.html <<<

------------------------------

From: BMack7316@aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 22:20:33 -0400
Subject: Lyons' Jaguar Spirit? 

Whilst traveling to and from the last regular season Washington Capitals
hockey game Saturday, I witnessed a perfect reddish XJ12C and another nice BG
SII.  I gawked hard. Three friends (who drive a Honda Accord, Isuzu Trooper,
and Mercedes 300) were with me in [JAGNRND], and expectedly, we broke a few
unimportant laws.  The women and children were contently jailed at my place
with plenty of booze for the duration (no, not the kids.) The US Air Arena,
where the Caps play, is situated at aproximately three o'clock on the DC
beltway, and I live at roughly nine, which is were we departed from.  By the
time we arrived at the arena, one friend had decided to start looking for a
Jag -- when we got home (the corner bar), another blurted out a desire to
have one.  The last, my dear friend, confidant, mechanic, and Honda Accord
owner, Greg, was his usual drunk self -- trying to defend owning zero
maintenance, worthless Japanese poop. 

Greg spewed forth plenty of rational reasons not to own a Jag, but my two new
converts won the argument in the end using "BECAUSE...!"  as their number one
defense.   It was three on one.

To make a long story short, my XJS, which should be back on the road soon, is
gonna get a new set of license plates if available in Virginia: [BECAUSE]  

Brad Mack (coin operated)
85 SIII [JAGNRND]
85 XJS (Because)???
92 Pathfinder (defending the Jags)

PS.  A different friend, Tony Quattrone, got a sweet deal on a black 85 XJS
with 40k on the ticker. He's probably lurking...Hi Tony!  Tony says he's a
Jag-lover for life now.

PPS.  To another friend, Quang Le -- just do it!  Quang is shopping for a Jag
too.  "You told me yourself you won't be happy with a 740i after cruising an
XJS.  You're an accountant with no plans for children for Christ's sake --
@%#& the German sedan!"

PPPS. Oh no, a liberal revolt in conservative Nothern Virginia -- a social
epedemic!!!  I must be a bad influence.
- ---------------------------------------------------------    

------------------------------

From: sfisher@sola.com.au (Scot Fisher)
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 96 22:12 CST
Subject: Roberts Rear End.

Greetings Robert,

I don't know if you remember what I did (3 years ago), was to remove the rear 
cage (easyish job) and pull it to bits (easy job) and hand the diff over to an
expert to re-build (hard job, for me :-).  Re-do all the other bits and
pieces, wheel bearings, uni-joints etc.  I'd encourage you to do the same.
Put the rebuilt diff
back in and put it all together. Once the rear cage is out of the car its all a 
delight to work on.  Easy is not the word.  You can even put it on the bench
and 
reach everything standing up, or sitting on a stool!  Excluding the time to
get the
diff back, and given you have all the spare parts, it's a weekend job.

Regards Scott.  
_______________________________________________________________________________
Scott Fisher [sfisher@sola.com.au] PH: (08)329-28341.                

                                                             _--_|\       N
SOLA OPTICAL                                                /      \    W + E
International Holdings Research Center                      \_.--*_/      S
Adelaide, South Australia                                         v

Joy is a Jaguar XJ6 with a flat battery, a blown oil seal and an unsympathetic 
wife, 9km outside of a small remote town, 3:15am on a cold wet winters morning.
_______________________________________________________________________________

------------------------------

From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 23:33:20 -0400
Subject: oil and water

Question:
I added leak stopper to the cooling system in my V12 in a vain attempt to
stall a heater matrix leak.  I have since remedied the problem (the proper
way) and wish to purge myself of all the gunk that I added to the system.
 Needless to say, I was without the benefit of the wisdom of the list when I
committed the hideous crime of adding leak stopper, and have since learned
the imperative nature of maintaining a cool V12.
Is there a best way to cleanse the system?
Also, is there a way to clean sludge out of the oil system without harm?  I
had a hot solvent treatment done on another car (at an oil change place)
which definately resulted in an ostensible oil pressure increase.  Are such
oil cleaning schemes wise/foolish/not good for British stuff?
Julian Mullaney    -  additive addict
'87 XJS Convertible

------------------------------

From: "Shelly Bolden, Ext. 4770" <bolden@BBN.COM>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 96 0:26:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Headliner Repair

My apologies folks, I wrote at the office without having the 3M
product in front of me. The 3M #10 spray adhesive recommendation
was wrong. I now have the can in front of me and it is:

3M #90 High Strength Adhesive

This is the product which the headliner manufacturer recommended we
use.

Just in case anyone is interested, I have two headliner sample cards 
in front of me. The manufacturer is Consolidated Admiral Corp., 
Woodbury, NY., (516) 921-2131, to call for a local distributor. 
They have a nice selection of quality headline.

Regards,
Shelly

------------------------------

From: Patrick Krejcik <pkr@SLAC.Stanford.EDU>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 21:35:55 -0700
Subject: Re: E-Type Progress

ALEX H. LINDSAY wrote:
>         One question, how do you remove the headliner from the roof? It
> appears to extend behind the metal piece that holds the headliner trim in
> place. Is the fabric glued directly to the roof or is there a backing board
> of some kind? (I guess that's two questions.)
 I think the piece you are referring to here is the "scuttle top panel assembly" 
which needs to be removed by unscrewing the sun visors and rearview mirror. The 
headliner finishes neatly behind this panel. The headliner and foam backing is glued 
to the roof.
Hope this helps.
Cheers, Patrick.
'65 Series I E-Type FHC

------------------------------

From: Michael Neal <mneal@wco.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 23:18:22 -0700
Subject: RE: Hazy XJ40 Headlamp lens

Can we please try to give feedback for the correct vehicles here!  In =
the last few hours mail alone I've noticed a later XJS possibly needing =
a cold start injectors.  An early XJ40 owner buying a headlight bulb for =
$4 when the original post was referring to the later rectangular housing =
headlights that take American type replacement halogen lightbulbs, no =
lenses  included.  I can just imagine the confusion out there.  In fact =
it is starting to border on ridiculous.

For the record, I believe in '82 the XJS had a recall on the fuel =
injection rails.  The later model type assemblies that replaced them =
deleted the injectors.  This left two Bosch fuel injection type plugs =
hanging with block-off plates on the intake manifolds. =20

Headlights in the US Spec XJ40s are as follows.  '88 and '89s had round =
headlights, four of them.  These should only be replaced with halogen =
bulbs no standard bulbs please!  The '90 and later, if I recall =
correctly, base XJ6s had the same type of setup, all others had the =
rectangular type lenses. The '95s went back to the four bulb assembly. =
The rectangular units used the halogen twist lock type bulbs with a 90 =
degree connector.  The bulbs are $15-20 each, the reflector/glass =
assembly is around $300.  The different types of setups take different =
bulb-fail modules.

Again I have to stress that it is important to identify the vehicle =
along with it's year, make and model along with the type of component or =
system being referred to.  Otherwise this list will continue to degrade =
into a strictly b.s. forum.

=20

- ----------
From:  Quang Ngo[SMTP:qlogic!ngo@netcom.com]
Sent:  Monday, April 15, 1996 7:47 AM
To:  cadev6.intel.com!rpeng@netcom.com
Cc:  73131.3076@compuserve.com; Jag Mailing List
Subject:  RE:Hazy XJ40 Headlamp lens

My left headlight went out last month.  I went to Kragen's auto part and
picked up a headlight for $4.  It works fine.

- -Quang (ngo@qlogic.com)

On Mon, 15 Apr 1996 cadev6.intel.com!rpeng@netcomsv.netcom.com wrote:

>=20
> >2.  Replace the entire headlamp unit.  I understand that prices for =
the unit
> >(new) run US $300 and up, each. or,
>=20
> What? you mean everytime one of my headlights go out, I need to pay =
$300
> to fix it?
>=20
> --=20
> =
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------=
- ---
> Roger Peng                                     (408)765-7863
> Intel Corporation
> Design Technology, Physical CAD
> =
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------=
- ---
>=20
>=20

------------------------------

From: brownd@filon.ml.com (Dave Brown - London Dev Xxxxx)
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 09:27:22 +0100
Subject: Test message - please ignore

David Brown, Merrill Lynch
brownd@ml.com
_______/\/\/\__________/\_____/\__________/\__/\/\/\/\/\____/\/\/\_________
_______/\____/\_______/\/\_____/\________/\_______/\________/\____/\_______
_______/\_____/\_____/\__/\_____/\______/\________/\________/\_____/\______
_______/\______/\___/\____/\_____/\____/\_________/\________/\______/\_____
_______/\_____/\___/\/\/\/\/\_____/\__/\__________/\________/\_____/\______
_______/\____/\___/\________/\_____/\/\___________/\________/\____/\_______
_______/\/\/\____/\__________/\_____/\________/\/\/\/\/\____/\/\/\_________

------------------------------

From: Don40799@aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 09:37:26 -0400
Subject: XJ-S and E-Mail Stalling

I have no idea why the Subject Line and the first few words of my previous
message were lost; but here is another attempt:

>My '83 XJ-S H.E. has picked up a nasty habit of stalling in hot weather.
 When >pushing for acceleration from a stop, the engine will first start the
car rolling, and >then will tend to cut out completely.  Only by letting up
on the accelerator, while >coasting, can the engine be kept running
(usually).  If the A/C is turned "off," the >engine will cut out momentarily
a time or two, but will usually recover and move on.  >Operation at higher
speeds (20 to 80 MPH), or in cooler weather, seems to be >unaffected.
 Coolant temperature seems to be unaffected, which rules out frozen
>centrifugal weights in the distributer (or does it?). 

>Does anyone have a suggestion as to where I should start looking for the
problem?

Kirby, you did a good job of deciphering the remains of my original message.
 The EFI (temperature sensors, throttle pot, etc.) and ignition component
checks are now on my agenda.  Thanks for the suggestions.

Don Snyder
XJ-S 
'73 E-Type

------------------------------

From: David Wood <David.Wood@durham.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 15:09:11 PDT
Subject: XJ6 wouldn't start

Dear all,

What a pain yesterday was on the Jag front, but at least I learned something.

After a week's holiday where the car (85 XJ6 3.4, twin carbs and AED) ran perfectly, 
it would not start. I thought the battery may be low, so got a jump from our other 
car. Still no joy. I took the plugs out to dry them and cleaned them up - still no start. 
Miffed, I took the (ultra-reliable) Nissan to work, after putting the Jag battery on 
charge.

Last night i refitted the battery. Still no joy. Then I checked for fuel by disconnecting 
the hose near the carbs - yes, a steady supply. i remember a thread about bad 
earths near the battery - checked these ok, and the earth strap was not getting 
warm on cranking. I cleaned the plugs again, reset them carefully and tested for a 
spark on them one by one by holding them close to the block on cranking. 
Every one fired. So, with a fuel supply, an electrical supply and no recent history to 
suggest a problem, I was stuck.

Luckily, I am in the RAC, but unluckily don't have a home start service. At the cost 
of �32 I instantly upgraded my membership. In fading light, the RAC man arrived 
and suggested that the AED might be flooding the engine. Apparently Jags must 
start nearly first time or even a correctly operating AED will provide too much fuel 
to start.

Here's the interesting (to me) bit. To clear the fuel from the cylinders, he knocked 
on the inertia switch, cutting off the fuel supply. After about 20 seconds cranking, 
the engine fired but ran very rough on the remaining fuel in the line. Resetting the 
switch restored normal behaviour, and the car ran perfectly.

He suggested taking the car out for a run to charge up the battery, and then wait 
until tomorrow morning to see what the AED did then. I did, and the car fired first 
time!!

So - what was wrong? 

Does anyone out there have experience of AED failure? Do they fail suddenly, or 
unpredictably? Thinking about it, I can't even understand how they work - are they 
essentially an uncontrolled extra fuel valve? 

If mine is on its way out, it seems easy enough to replace, but I am tempted by a 
manual choke conversion. Anyone done this?

Cheers,

Dave Wood. 

------------------------------

From: LLoyd <3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@cmsa.berkeley.edu>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 96 09:00:46 PDT
Subject: Re: Smoking

Re. addding methanol to gas for smog testing, here is a true story.

  A friend had an old raggidy pickup truck he used only occasionally around
the farm. Needed toget it smogged for the registration, so drove it into town.
It wouldn't pass. In discust, he drove it home, buying five gallons of alcy
on the way.
  Poured the alcohol into the tank which had only about three gallons of gasoli
ne in it, put a bit larger jets in the carb so she  would run, and drove it
back into town.
  Smog man hooked it up again. Smog man looked at the smog machine. Smog man
looked at the truck. Smog man looked at the machine. Smog man looked at the
truck. It was putting out no pollutants.
  Truck passed, friend filled the tank with gas, drove home and put the carb
jets back in.

  True story.   LLoyd

------------------------------

From: David J Shield <David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 96 09:18:00 PDT
Subject: 7" headlights

Hi - I did this also.  I ordered the kit of parts from Ken Jenkins in 
the UK.  One year and many faxes later, the parts finally were shipped.
The part you can't get in the states is the chrome bezel.  I think 
they're different for SI, II, III, but I could be wrong.  The buckets 
and adjusters look like standard British Leyland parts (they said BL 
right on them), which you should be able to get in the states.

I highly recommend this, as Tracy does.  Robert, maybe you want to go 
into business and become an exporter?

The other UK-spec mod that would be way cool is the headlamp washer kit.

David

>From: "Tracy A. Ferrell" <tracy@brooktree.com>
>Date: Mon, 15 Apr 1996 07:11:20 -0700
>Subject: 7" Headlights
>
>Hi there,
>This real cool Australian dude (whose initials are Robert Dingli) sent 
>me a kit of parts to convert the outside headlights of my Series III 
>XJ6 to the proper 7" size. It looks great! Why did Jaguar have to
>change them to 5.75" to import them into the US? Was it some safety 
>issue or did the US think they were doing the consumer a favor by 
>making all the lights the same size? I remember a short-lived 
>discussion on this list about a year ago, but I don't remember anyone 
>really knowing the answer then.
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: danlb@nando.net (Daniel  Bowdoin)
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 96 13:00:40 EDT
Subject: A (sort of) philosophical question

Is there anyone among us who is using an E-type as your sole mode of
transportation, day in and day out, with no alternative vehicle as a safety
net? Am I completely or nearly out of my mind to be contemplating this
possibility for myself?

------------------------------

From: Jim Goring <jgoring@ccnet.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 10:42:51 +0000
Subject: Re: A (sort of) philosophical question

Daniel Bowdoin wrote:
> 
> Is there anyone among us who is using an E-type as your sole mode of
> transportation, day in and day out, with no alternative vehicle as a safety
> net? Am I completely or nearly out of my mind to be contemplating this
> possibility for myself?

yes, you are out of your mind.

of course, you could call John's Cars.. and have a Chevy Lump put in... not to open that scar 
again.

still.. would be a fun daily driver.

------------------------------

From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 14:22:08 -0400
Subject: oil pressure

I want to measure my oil pressure mechanically by hooking up a regular
bourdon tube type guage.  
Does anyone know a convenient spot in the oil system of a 1987 V12 where a
fitting could be attached to do this ?
Thanks 
Julian Mullaney

------------------------------

From: Jim Marsden <JMARSDEN@corel.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 13:37:28 -0600
Subject: Re: headliner repair

Hi,

This last weekend I had the experience of reparing my 85 XJS headliner
that had seperated from the sponge material over 2/3rds of the roof. It
took about 15 minutes and came out perfect!
First I got a can of weldwood (?) spray glue, (any good brand of spray
contact cement should work).
Second, I carefully removed the strip of headliner that snaps off above
the doorline to gain acess to the backside of the fabric, ( I had to separate
about an inch more to get to the edge).
Third, I reached in as far as my arm would go and sprayed all over
between the sponge and the velour fabric.
Fourth, After waiting a minute or so, I started at the other edge and with a
straight edge or flat hand just smothed the headliner back into place.
I thought it would be much harder than it was.

Regards,
Jim Marsden
JMARSDEN@Corel.com

85 XJS H.E.
83 Mercedes (for sale cheap!)
88 Suburban
90 F250

------------------------------

From: Jim Marsden <JMARSDEN@corel.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 13:51:43 -0600
Subject: Dropped valve seat kills piston?

Hi,
My 85 XJS recently suffered a dropped valve seat. The machine shop
said they can repair (reweld) the head which will be much cheaper than
a used one. Incidently, the shop said they see dropped seats all the time
on these new 4 valve per cyl cars, so Jags really aren't so unique in this
problem after all. :)
My question is this; The shop said definitely replace the piston, (without
seeing it) if it has any marks on the top 'cause the top ring land will crack
and come loose. Has anyone had experience in this matter? I know it's
hard without seeing it, but I'd really like not to have to go into the bottom
end of this engine. (Is it possible in the car?). The top of the piston has
some scars and indentations in it but how far is the top ring and how
likely is it to crack? The cylinder looks great with no scratches or scoring
and you can still see the crosshatched honing marks. I find this incredible
that with all the loose valve seat flying around the cylinder wall is still ok.

My thanks in advance,
Jim Marsden
JMARSDEN@Corel.com

85 XJS HE
83 Mercedes 300D (for sale cheap)
88 Suburban
90 Ford F250

------------------------------

From: pbowers@ilk.com (Patrick J. Bowers)
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 16:14:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [none]

Hey I've got an '89 XJS with Marelli ingitions system.  I have just installed
new wire, plugs, cap, and rotor.  My question is should I be able to check for
mechanical advance as described in Kirby's Manual?  When I did as describe I 
only felt perhaps 1/16" movement.  However I believe the Marelli system is 
completely different from the one Kirby described.

Thanks,
Patrick Bowers

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 16:56:42 -0400
Subject: Re: oil pressure tap: XJ-S

>I want to measure my oil pressure mechanically by hooking up a regular
>bourdon tube type guage.  
>Does anyone know a convenient spot in the oil system of a 1987 V12 where a
>fitting could be attached to do this ?

On my '83, there is a block at the top center of the engine, below and rearward of the throttle bellcrank.  This block has the idiot light sender, the oil gauge sender, and both tappet block oil line fittings on it.  It also has an unused fitting, plugged.  Remove the plug and you're good to go! Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,   |  some rules must be broken. |          -- Palm's Postulate End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #41 ******************************* Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.6.12/on1) id <CAA08918> for jag-lovers-digest-out; Wed, 17 Apr 1996 02:50:01 +0200 Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 02:50:01 +0200 Message-Id: <199604170050.CAA08918@ekeberg.sn.no> From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no Subject:   jag-lovers-digest V2 #42 Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Precedence: bulk X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest jag-lovers-digest         Wednesday, 17 April 1996      Volume 02 : Number 042 From: danlb@nando.net (Daniel  Bowdoin) Date: Tue, 16 Apr 96 13:00:40 EDT Subject: A (sort of) philosophical question Daniel B. is loosing it. We must get him sedated, and turn on the elevator music. Now, after having said that, I am seriously considering it too, soon aft er I get my "E" back together, painted, interior installed, licenced, and well, you get the idea. <Is there anyone among us who is using an E-type as your sole mode of <transportation, day in and day out, with no alternative vehicle as a safety <net? Am I completely or nearly out of my mind to be contemplating this <possibility for myself? LLoyd -at first I said it was a three year project...- From: Peter Hamel <jo79@dial.pipex.com> Date: Tue, 16 Apr 96 18:02:17 GMT Subject: Re: Jaguar woodwork Lee, Thanks for the reply; that sounds good as I was wondering about some kind= of  oil for recovering rather than a varnish type covering. My only problem = is I'm  in the UK so I probably can't get the products you mentioned. Can you tel= l me  what kind of chemical Formbys refinsher contains (does it say on the can?= ) as I  can probably get something similar here. Thanks a lot. Regards Pete Hello all, Has anyone got any experience in renovating the woodwork in  relatively recent Jaguars ? Pete, Lee in Martinez,CA.  I'm currently refinishing the wood in my Mar= k X. Use Formby's refinisher to strip off the old lacquer.  Lightly polish = the wood with 0000 steel wool.  Re-stain if necessary with colonial walnut stain.  Re-coat with numerous layers of Tung Oil.  It will look like = new and wear like iron.  Lee From: Peter Hamel <jo79@dial.pipex.com> Date: Tue, 16 Apr 96 20:41:38 GMT Subject: Re: a couple of things (alloy refinishing) David, Re your last question, I have had my alloys refinshed by a specialist all= oy  wheel refinishing company. The cost is about 50 pounds (about $75 I guess= ). The  only problem is I'm in the UK and I guess you're in the US so there is = not much  point in giving you the company details. The results of the refinshing = process  were spectacular though, as new. I think they put the wheel on a lathe = and skim  the laquer plus very thin layer of top surface metal off, and then relaqu= er.  Use caution though because I had a wheel done earlier by another company = with  very poor results. Regards Pete I'm now running BF Goodrich Comp T/A VR235/60s.  A little noisy but the= y  grip like crazy and really enhance the looks.  Does anyone have  experience re-finishing the factory alloys?   The thick lacquer is  chipping and looks crummy.   David J. Shield '84 XJ6 VDP (now for sale - I'm starting to look for an early E  roadster, gotta be driveable, red preferred). From: Michael Neal <mneal@wco.com> Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 14:26:42 -0700 Subject: Re: Dropped valve seat kills piston? Jim, The XJS does not have a 4 valve per cylinder motor!  Odds are  definitely against you, the piston is probably damaged.  If you could  seal the liner and do a leakdown test that showed the rings weren't  jammed up then I might gamble on it.  It seems that the valve seats drop  from too lean a mixture or too hot of a head.  It is possible that it  could happen again. Jim Marsden wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> My 85 XJS recently suffered a dropped valve seat. The machine shop
> said they can repair (reweld) the head which will be much cheaper than
> a used one. Incidently, the shop said they see dropped seats all the time
> on these new 4 valve per cyl cars, so Jags really aren't so unique in this
> problem after all. :)
> My question is this; The shop said definitely replace the piston, (without
> seeing it) if it has any marks on the top 'cause the top ring land will crack
> and come loose. Has anyone had experience in this matter? I know it's
> hard without seeing it, but I'd really like not to have to go into the bottom
> end of this engine. (Is it possible in the car?). The top of the piston has
> some scars and indentations in it but how far is the top ring and how
> likely is it to crack? The cylinder looks great with no scratches or scoring
> and you can still see the crosshatched honing marks. I find this incredible
> that with all the loose valve seat flying around the cylinder wall is still ok.
> 
> My thanks in advance,
> Jim Marsden
> JMARSDEN@Corel.com
> 
> 85 XJS HE
> 83 Mercedes 300D (for sale cheap)
> 88 Suburban
> 90 Ford F250

------------------------------

From: tony goodall <tony@goodall.u-net.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 22:42:52 +0100
Subject: RE:Hazy XJ40 Headlamp lens

hi guys

>Kirby Palm wrote:
>
>>> I find it rather difficult to believe that the haziness cannot
>>>be fixed by removing the bulb, pouring some cleaner or solvent
>>>into the hole, and sloshing it around.  Why won't this work?

I'm no expert - but ----
why not put the unit, glass up, into a dishwasher, with 
dishwasher liquid.  The chemicals are strong, but no abrasion!!

(I recently replace a full rectangular unit, after a dead mudguard hit
it at 85mph), but I got a full unit. that was 125quid + VAT
glass alone cost a lot anyway (70-80 quid + fitting)

cheers
tony

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dr. A. Goodall       http://www.u-net.com/~goodall/
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 96 15:33:38 PDT
Subject: Jag Rear-Ends

I've now heard quite a few accounts of Series I-II-III XJ Jag's
needing complete rear end rebuilds. Just curious if anyone with
an XJ40 has had to do the same? Obviously, I'm asking about an
XJ40 that has covered extended mileages.

- -- 
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Roger Peng                                     (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Jim Marsden <JMARSDEN@corel.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 16:40:52 -0600
Subject: Dropped valve seat kills piston?

Hi,
My 85 XJS recently suffered a dropped valve seat. The machine shop
said they can repair (reweld) the head which will be much cheaper than
a used one. Incidently, the shop said they see dropped seats all the time
on these new 4 valve per cyl cars, so Jags really aren't so unique in this
problem after all. :)
My question is this; The shop said definitely replace the piston, (without
seeing it) if it has any marks on the top 'cause the top ring land will crack
and come loose. Has anyone had experience in this matter? I know it's
hard without seeing it, but I'd really like not to have to go into the bottom
end of this engine. (Is it possible in the car?). The top of the piston has
some scars and indentations in it but how far is the top ring and how
likely is it to crack? The cylinder looks great with no scratches or scoring
and you can still see the crosshatched honing marks. I find this incredible
that with all the loose valve seat flying around the cylinder wall is still ok.

My thanks in advance,
Jim Marsden
JMARSDEN@Corel.com

85 XJS HE
83 Mercedes 300D (for sale cheap)
88 Suburban
90 Ford F250

------------------------------

From: Jim Marsden <JMARSDEN@corel.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 13:51:43 -0600
Subject: Dropped valve seat kills piston?

Jim asks a good question:

<My question is this; The shop said definitely replace the piston, (without
<seeing it) if it has any marks on the top 'cause the top ring land will crack
<and come loose. Has anyone had experience in this matter? I know it's

  By all means. An indentation cannot squeeze the piston out. The metal can onl
y go down, and the first place there is any place for it to protrude is at the
top oil ring. It squeezes the oil ring, pinching it if it doesn't break it. A
pinched ring doesn't seal any more it is siezed to the piston.
  If you are dumping the car you can get by with it (even if it ain't ethical).
But I wouldn't drive it that way.

  LLoyd Been there, done that, and am still sorry.

------------------------------

From: "Andy Broer" <andy_broer@taligent.com>
Date: 16 Apr 1996 15:39:42 -0800
Subject: Re: A (sort of) philosophica

Mail*Link(r) SMTP               RE>A (sort of) philosophical question

Daniel,

>>Am I completely or nearly out of my mind to be contemplating this
possibility for myself?

It seems to me you are thinking with your heart and not letting anything stop
you from doing what you want. You are just the type of person I'd hire to get
a job done, or to call my friend and share a drink and a story with.

Life is too short to let fear stop you from doing what you want. I say do it.
If it turns out to be too much of a hassle deal with it later, pick up a $1000
junker if reliability turns out to be a problem.

I drive a 21 year old Ferrari to work, when it is in the shop I ride a Ducati
900SS. (My wife has the XJS) These are not rational choices, they are
emotional. They keep my sanity and love of life alive. If you belong to this
list you already have demonstrated high emotional drive. Reach out with your
feelings, what do you WANT to do?

Few people get to do what they want to do in life. Be one of them.

Andy

75 Ferrari Dino308GT4
83 Jaguar XJS HE
94 Ducati 900SSCR

------------------------------

From: LLoyd <3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@cmsa.berkeley.edu>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 96 15:46:41 PDT
Subject: Universal washer motor.

  Since we all had so much fun with my post about the universal motor for a
windshield washer I've decided against it. Replacing the 4.2 with one would
require completely re-adjusting the front torsion bars. I'm not ready to
tackle that.

  LLoyd

------------------------------

From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 96 15:51:07 PDT
Subject: XK8 Prices

>From the best I can gather so far, the XK8 will sell for $75-95K (U.S.)
depending on whether it's a coupe or convertible. 

I must say that's somewhat of an sticker-shock. The sports car market
in the U.S. isn't all that strong these days, yet the marketing people at 
Jaguar expect the XK8 to be more of a volume seller than the XJS.
I haven't looked at Porches for a while, but I know they were having
trouble moving 911's at under 70K. 

I don't want to be discouraging, but 95K is getting closer to the Bentley
realm (and we know how many of those get sold!). Heck, I can buy two
E-types for that much money; one for show, and one for go!

Jaguar really needs to get their compact car project going. I think
that's where BMW makes most of their money.

- -- 
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Roger Peng                                     (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: TezFair@aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 19:02:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Jaguar woodwork

Pete,

Lee metioned using Tung oil for your woodwork, here in the UK its difficult
to get and very expensive, Try B&Q (a British hardware store for people
outside the UK) for Danish oil, it contains tung oil and other exotic oils I
use it for woodturning and gives a good depth of finish after 3 coats.

Terry

------------------------------

From: Patrick Krejcik <pkr@SLAC.Stanford.EDU>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 15:11:32 -0700
Subject: Re: A (sort of) philosophical question

Daniel Bowdoin wrote:
> 
> Is there anyone among us who is using an E-type as your sole mode of
> transportation, day in and day out, with no alternative vehicle as a safety
> net? Am I completely or nearly out of my mind to be contemplating this
> possibility for myself?

Sure, my E-Type is "my" daily transportation. My wife has a car which is 
"hers" and is used for hauling around the kids and weekend trips. Does 
that count? If my Jaguar were to break down unexpectedly I would be 
stuck without a means of commuting. But its not going to break down 
unexpectedly because I know every inch of the car and I am attuned to 
every breath and murmur that it makes. No you are not crazy for 
contemplating the idea, but I am pretty sure that the rest of the world 
is crazy.

Cheers, Patrick.

'66 Series I E-Type FHC.

------------------------------

From: Stefan Schulz <jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 22:51:09 GMT
Subject: Ron Session's THM400 book

According to my book shop, Ron Session's book "How to work with and modify
the Turbo-Hydramatic 400 transmission" is out of print.  Does any of
the list.members want to sell me his/her copy ?

Regards,
- --
Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk

------------------------------

From: Michael Frank <mfrank@westnet.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 20:02:08 -0400
Subject: Re: A (sort of) philosophical question

At 01:00 PM 4/16/96 EDT, you wrote:
>Is there anyone among us who is using an E-type as your sole mode of
>transportation, day in and day out, with no alternative vehicle as a safety
>net? Am I completely or nearly out of my mind to be contemplating this
>possibility for myself?
>
>
Dan:
  I do about 7500 miles a year in my series II 2+2. However, this is not my
sole mode of transportation. These cars are practical drivers, but lets face
it, the newest Etype is 22 years old! My car is often out of action for
weeks at a time, as I like to do all the repair work correctly, by myself. I
would not run the car in bad weather, nor would I use it for city driving.
Some day (I hope not too soon), this car will receive a total ground-up and
be used for show only. Meanwhile, I drive it with respect. A vintage car is
not something you own: it is something you borrow from future enthusiasts.

Mike Frank
1969 Etype 2+2
1966 Plymouth Barracuda
1988 Toyota Supra
1995 Saab 900

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 20:24:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Dropped valve seat kills piston?

>The shop said definitely replace the piston, (without
>seeing it) if it has any marks on the top 'cause the top ring land will crack
>and come loose. Has anyone had experience in this matter?

Experience won't be of much use here.  The shop is correct, impact marks in
the top of the piston may have caused some structural damage that can't be
seen.  If you surveyed everyone who ever put an engine back together this
way, you'll find some who had failures (because the piston did in fact have
damage) and some who didn't (because their pistons were not damaged).  Both
outcomes are possible; the question is, do you wanna chance it?

The fact is, you just might.  If you replace the piston, it will entail a
lot more work, a little more money, and you will have an engine you can be
sure of.  If you don't replace the piston, it may run just fine, and you
will have saved the effort and expense.  If it does not, you will have to
tear it down to replace a broken piston.  In this worst-case scenario, you
will be out a second head gasket and possibly a liner and more head work;
the bottom end work needed doing one way or the other.

A shop doing work for pay will most certainly go for the overhaul; they can
pass the cost on to the customer, and cannot bear the blame for a broken
piston after doing the head work.  But you, as the car owner, can make your
own decisions.

If it were me, I'd make the decision based on what the dings look like.  If
they look like the piston just hit the loose seat, I'd probably go for it.
If it looks like the seat got caught between the piston and the head and
crunched it one good, I'd probably replace the piston.

>I'd really like not to have to go into the bottom
>end of this engine. (Is it possible in the car?).

It's possible (I did it) but not easy.  It's not a bad plan to pull the motor.

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 20:25:00 -0400
Subject: Centrifugal Advance - XJ-S

>Hey I've got an '89 XJS with Marelli ingitions system.  I have just installed
>new wire, plugs, cap, and rotor.  My question is should I be able to check for
>mechanical advance as described in Kirby's Manual?  When I did as describe I 
>only felt perhaps 1/16" movement.  However I believe the Marelli system is 
>completely different from the one Kirby described.

There are some modern ignition systems that perform advance functions
electronically, and don't require a distributor at all.  However, judging
from the exploded views of the systems, I don't think the Marelli in the Jag
is such a critter.  I think it uses a mechanical centrifugal advance,
essentially unchanged from the earlier models.  The only difference is how
the spark is generated and distributed.

I also think your advance is stuck.

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: John McDonagh <mcdonagj@tui.lincoln.ac.nz>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 12:21:24 +1200
Subject: Re: A (sort of) philosophica

Andy,

I really like your philisophy, - perhaps its because I too ride a 
motorcycle to work sometimes (Suzuki RG500) like today. My daily 
driver is a 66 MGB with 139,000 miles on the clock and still not 
rebored (though it needs it!). If I don't bring the MG I drive the 64 
Mk2. I must admit though I do have a 1982 Honda City but my wife 
drives this usually.

One thing I don't understand is why old cars seem to be so much more 
unreliable in the USA than they are here. Is it the gas, the 
mechanics, the DPO's the traffic, the roads the emission equipment ?

 I have done 50,000 miles in the Jag and 40,000 in the MG and only once
 have I needed a tow (fuel pump in the MG Surprise! I now carry a spare.)
 Two or three other times I have had to stop but with a bit of fiddleing and
 basic tools I have got going again. 

This is of special concern to me as later this year it looks like I 
will be spending six months at the University of Wisconsin-Madison. I 
will be taking my family with me and the plan is to buy a pre 1976 
car and at the end of my study leave drive back across the States to 
LA then ship the car back to NZ. (pre 1976 cars do not have to be 
converted to right and drive when they arrive in NZ). If I can expect 
this car to break down regularly in the middle of nowhere then I may 
have second thoughts about this plan.

John McDonagh
Department of Accounting Finance and Property Studies
Lincoln University
Christchurch
New Zealand

------------------------------

From: Jan Wikstroem <Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au>
Date: 17 Apr 96 10:31:23 
Subject: Re: O2-sensor and sunroof

Hello, Are,
I can't comment on your O2 sensor, except I think it would be a good idea to 
stick it back into the exhaust flow. You'll need to weld a nut of the right 
size to the pipe, then drill a hole into the pipe.

The sun roof problem sounds like an overload; I believe there's a thermal 
overload switch, which agrees with the way it can be closed after a brief wait. 
This suggests that the mechanism suffers from excessive friction, maybe from 
dirt and dried-up grease; I'd take it apart and clean all sliding parts. A 
little MoS2 grease should have it running sweetly for a long time.

- - Jan

------------------------------

From: Jerry Cole <jerryc@methow.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 16:41:12 -0700
Subject: 59MKI

I have been learking this newsletter for sometime and now I guess its
time for me to enter in.I own  a 59 MkI 3.4 auto that my significant
other or I drive daily (runs good lots of fun) however it has lots of
rust. I also own a 58 MKI 3.4 auto that has a seized engine and no rust.
Both are original. I have toyed with the idea of making one good car from
2 but I seem to have a moral issue with mixing serial numbers. I would
appreciate any opinions or thoughts on this issue. Are these 2 cars worth
keeping intact or would my conscious be clear if I made 1 car from 2.
Keep in mind I have a limited budget and love both cars but would really
like to have one really nice one instead of 2 cool but need help cars.

------------------------------

From: jamesc@oasis.novia.net (jc)
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 18:53:43 -0500
Subject: Re: E-Type Head Compatibility?

>I am certain that this question has come up recently. However, I could
>not find it in the archives.
>
>Can a 3.8 E-Type head fit on a 4.2 block?  If so, what issues do I need
>to consider?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Robert Sukiennicki
>1967 E-Type 2+2

Robert
  The head will bolt on but there are some differences in the water jackets.
You would not be able to use the same intake manifold and I believe there
is one additional water port on the rear of the 4.2 block that would be
occluded
Jim Canedy(SS100,120racer,MK V DHC, 150S,MK VII,EX2)

------------------------------

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #42
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jag-lovers-digest         Wednesday, 17 April 1996      Volume 02 : Number 043

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jan Wikstroem <Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au>
Date: 17 Apr 96 10:46:28 
Subject: Re: 7" Headlights

Kirby:
> ...but they still restrict the number of headlights (four maximum) and 
wattage (55W low beam,
> 60W high beam...

Could the legislators be trying to discourage night driving because it's so 
dangerous...? 
:3+>
- - Jan

------------------------------

From: Jan Wikstroem <Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au>
Date: 17 Apr 96 10:54:52 
Subject: Re: Smoking

A gallon of alky sounds a bit much; back in the '50s, we [Swedish drivers] used 
to put in about a pint per tankful because the alcohol absorbs condensation and 
gets the water out of the tank without freezing in the fuel lines.

Aaah, those happy days. I have vivid memories of clearing a frozen fuel line in 
- -26 deg C (in Fahrenheit, that's ...ummm... very cold). That's how I learned to 
put the schnapps in...
- - Jan

------------------------------

From: jamesc@oasis.novia.net (jc)
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 19:03:35 -0500
Subject: Re: XK originality

>Jim,
>
>My 120 is #671907, engine W4271-8, mfg. 2/18/52 per Jaguar. It also has cam
>covers without front studs and aluminum fan. By the way, are you racing with
>the aluminum fan? I was thinking of changing to a later fan before taking it
>out on the track this summer. Advice?
>
>A note to all 120 owners - have you checked the oil in the steering idler
>box? Just found last weekend that mine has been frozen, probably since
>before I owned the car! I never realized the idler box was there. When I
>removed the track bar to replace the pivots I found that the arm from the
>idler box was swinging loose ion the tapered shaft. It took considerable
>time (and judicious application of a torch) to turn the shaft out of the
>idler box.
>
>ADDRESS CHANGE:  Please change your records from Elgsweep@aol.com to
>elgparts@xnet.com  Thanks
>Dennis Murphy
>Geneva, IL
>1952 XK 120
>1990 XJ-S
Dennis
     Regarding the 120 fan:  It seemed like a lot of mass spinning at the
front of the engine so I removed it. I added an E type electric fan in
front of the radiator. On the special it cant be seen. It would be obvious
on the 120 but I dont think anyone would care at the track. (The aluminum
fan is polished and mounted on the wall above my desk in the shop. It
really is beautiful)
    The idler arm on the 120s always seem to leak and go dry. I put in new seals
and heavy weight oil and it still leaks. I an tempted to fill it with
grease and forget it. Any suggestions
Jim Canedy(SS100,120racer,MK V DHC,150s,MK VII, Ex2)

------------------------------

From: Jan Wikstroem <Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au>
Date: 17 Apr 96 11:25:23 
Subject: Re: A (sort of) philosophical question

Go for it, Dan. Life's too short! The E-type is no less reliable than any other 
Jag. In fact, it's pretty solid, once you get Mr. Lucas under control. I'm 
running an XJ12 for daily transport myself since three years and have had no 
unscheduled stops that I haven't been able to fix on the spot. Sure you have to 
keep the maintenance up to scratch on a 20-year-old car, but I enjoy tinkering, 
so that's no problem.

The uncertain potential risk of possible hassles that may or may not happen is 
no reason to give up all that driving pleasure!

- -Jan

------------------------------

From: Jan Wikstroem <Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au>
Date: 17 Apr 96 11:29:15 
Subject: Re: oil pressure

Try screwing the oil pressure transmitter into a tee, Julian; it lives in the 
back end of the valley, behind the throttle linkage/ignition coil pedestal. 
It's easy to get at once you take the pedestal out.
- - Jan

------------------------------

From: John McDonagh <mcdonagj@tui.lincoln.ac.nz>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 13:36:19 +1200
Subject: Re: 59MKI

Hi Jerry,

If I were you I would put the good engine in the rust free shell BUT 
keep the original seized engine and re build it at your leisure so 
that when your current engine wears out  or you otherwise feel 
inclined you can reunite the original components.

John McDonagh
Department of Accounting Finance and Property Studies
Lincoln University
Christchurch
New Zealand

------------------------------

From: Jan Wikstroem <Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au>
Date: 17 Apr 96 11:38:24 
Subject: RE:Hazy XJ40 Headlamp lens

Tony Goodall wrote:
>why not put the unit, glass up, into a dishwasher, with 
>dishwasher liquid.  The chemicals are strong, but no abrasion!!

You're darn tootin' the chemicals are strong; what we have here is sodium 
hydroxide in a strong enough solution to peel your skin off; the reflector 
coating will disappear (not go dull, *disappear*) in the time it takes you to 
start the machine and stop it again. Dishwasher manufacturers warn you against 
putting any aluminium items in!

- - Jan

------------------------------

From: jamesc@oasis.novia.net (jc)
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 20:35:11 -0500
Subject: JOHN ELMGREEN help

>Subject: engine numbers
>
>John
>    Hopefully you could shed some light on more engine number questions.
>If I could refer you to http://www.intex.net/~cci/index.html. There is a
>photo of Dick White's 3.8S engine with beautiful detail of all the engine
>markings. You taught me about the part numbers but what do the others mean
>and where would one find out?   JIM CANEDY

------------------------------

From: BMack7316@aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 22:32:53 -0400
Subject: [none]

 know of an easier way to acquire the parts to
make the switch?  If any of our enterprising parts suppliers are lurking,
I'll bet that there would be enough takers to support whatever effort it
 takes to figure out how to supply this conversion.

Brad Mack
85 SIII
85 XJS
92 Pathfinder

It takes a strong man to make a tender chicken
- --------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: HDR64@aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 23:02:13 -0400
Subject: A/C amplifier source(aftermarket

Sorry to "bomb" the list but wanted to let everyone know that we sell an
excellent aftermarket a/c amplifier unit for the XJ (original part number is
C45402)

The unit comes with a 5 year warranty. We are offering a special "net" price
just to get the word out. Only $175.00. For those of you in the "business",
we also have a trade program for installers and parts distributors.

Last but not least, we import the amplifiers from Australia. They are quality
pieces and are not common in the USA. (other USA suppliers offer aftermarket
amplifiers too but I believe ours is the best one for the money.)

Since it now warming up outside, thought some of you on the list might need a
good value on this particular item.

Best Regards,
Hal Rogers (HDR64@aol.com)
H.D. Rogers & Sons 
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA  71112
(318) 742-3651 phone
(318) 742-5044 fax

------------------------------

From: HDR64@aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 23:07:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Jag Rear-Ends

I have known of many XJ40, especially early models 88-90 that had
replacements under warranty. Seems that although they are entirely different
differentials than pre 88 cars, they still had some problems, at least in the
beginning. I am not sure whether they were all serious problems or bothersome
problems like minor noise that a new car owner would not tolerate. Anyone
else with stories?

If you want to talk warranty/service problems on XJ40- lets talk about the
original self levelling shock defects!

Regards,
Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons

------------------------------

From: "Peter W. Karpien" <100306.3514@compuserve.com>
Date: 16 Apr 96 23:21:53 EDT
Subject: Wind Noise

Thanks to Brian and Gregory for their advice on Wind noise.
Here is what I've found so far.

I have the little plastic caps in the top of the chrome frames on the front
doors, 
but not the rear ones.

I also found that the rear door seal on the
drivers side was not laying flat in the upper front corner.
  I was able to flatten it out a bit right before
closing the door (Watch them fingers!).  This didn't
 seem to make a lot of difference, but I suspect that 
the seal will get better if I make sure that that the rubber seal is 
 always  flat when the door is closed.
Dow anyone  know of any way to soften the rubber seals up a little?

No takers on the odometer problem? (see below)

Thank you,
Peter 
- -XJ6

100306.3514@compuserve.com

Last weekend I took a small jaunt (150miles each way) down to
Binghamton New York.  The car performed wonderfully except for the
 odometer which stopped working sometime on the way down.

>From what Ive read on the list I seem to recall that the signal to the odometer
and the trip
computer comes from the same transducer in the tranny.  Correct me if Im wrong.
At present the trip computer is still measuring distance correctly as well as
all other 
measurements, and my speedometer and tach are functioning fine as well.
  I am assuming then, that the problem is in the odometer gauge itself.

Is it possible to trouble shoot this gauge?  Does anyone know how? 
What kind of electronic signal does it receive from the transducer,
 so I can test to see if it is reaching the odometer and so I can
 reproduce it (if possible) to test the odometer on the bench. 
 Any suggestions would surly be welcome.

------------------------------

From: "Ryan Border" <border@best.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 1996 20:44:55 +0000
Subject: Re: 59MKI

Hi Jerry-

You write:
> I have been lurking this newsletter for sometime and now I guess its
> time for me to enter in.  I own  a 59 MkI 3.4 auto that my significant
> other or I drive daily (runs good lots of fun) however it has lots of
> rust. I also own a 58 MKI 3.4 auto that has a seized engine and no rust.

 I currently own a '59 MK1, used to own a '58 also, and dabbled
seriously with a friends '59.  So, I know a little bit about these 
cars.  If you've really got a rust (and bondo) free example, then 
congrats, thats a rare find indeed.  

> Both are original. I have toyed with the idea of making one good car from
> 2 but I seem to have a moral issue with mixing serial numbers. I would
> appreciate any opinions or thoughts on this issue.

 In your shoes there's 2 ways I'd consider going; both of which 
conclude with you driving the '58 with a good drive-train and 
original numbers...

1) Drive the car you're driving.  Have fun with it.  But, fix the 
'58.  Short of a busted block, there's really not much that can't
be fixed with these motors.   So maybe it takes a year or two to
get it sorted out- you've got the '59 to enjoy while you're working
on it.  Work towards building one really nice example (maybe swapping
some parts with the '58 to get it as good as possible) and enjoy 
the 59 while you work on it.  When you've got the '58 all sorted out,
then either start fixing the body on the '59 or just sell it.

2) Pull the drive-train out of the '58.  Drop the one from the '59 in 
and save the 59 shell away as a donor for parts.  Use the '59 drive-train 
while you (once again) rebuild the original 58 stuff.  When it's all done, drop it
back in- and save the '59 drive-train away for parts, or put it back 
in the '59 and sell it. 

I guess which way I'd go would depend on how rusted the '59 really
is.  If it's unsafe, or just too far gone to ever be worth fixing (as 
you're no doubt aware the value of a MK1 is quite a bit less than a 
comparable MK2), then I'd probably
relegate it to life as a parts car and get the '58 rolling ASAP with 
a drive-train swap.  If the '59 can be saved, or sold to recoup some
rebuild expenses then I'd keep it together and drive it while I 
got the '58 going.   

I did a motor-swap on my car, but 
  a) I had a cracked engine block
  b) I went from 2.4 to 4.2L... for a minor performance improvement
I wouldn't swap motors permanently just  to get the car running...  if nothing
else it hurts the value of the car as compared to a numbers matching example.
At the very least, I'd save the original parts from the '58 to 
include with the car for a future buyer.  I've even saved my numbers
matching (cracked) 2.4 motor.  I'll never put it back in the car, but
it's nice to know I could.

> Are these 2 cars worth
> keeping intact or would my conscious be clear if I made 1 car from 2.

If the 59 is really rusted, then expense to repair will be cost 
prohibitive unless (until?)  the value of the car  comes up a lot.  That said, 
it was still a very sad day when I sent my stripped down '58 parts car away to
the crusher.

> Keep in mind I have a limited budget and love both cars but would really
> like to have one really nice one instead of 2 cool but need help cars.

Hope that helps.  Just ask if there's any questions I might be able 
to answer regarding these cars.  I've been into just about every 
single component, most more than once.

Ryan Border
http://www.best.com/~border/pages/jag/jag.shtml 

PS: My wife joan says:
"Get out your checkbook"

------------------------------

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 09:08:52 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: XJ rear end backlash

Robert

> I'm almost tempted to pay someone to work on my car now that I have a full
> time commitment (yes, I decided that 8.5 years of uni is enough and that
> I should join the workforce).  Has anyone heard of complete change over
> XJ rear ends or had quotes to do the complete job (diff, seals, uni joints,
> bushes, brakes and bearings) ????

I'm currently having the final drive overhauled done on my '88 XJ-S. I had
a quote of about 700 pounds including bearing, seals, brakes, pads but no
u-joints. Price included removal and installing IRS.

- - Matthias

------------------------------

From: Michael Neal <mneal@wco.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 00:36:16 -0700
Subject: Re: Centrifugal Advance - XJ-S

The Marelli ignition system does control timing electronically in 
conjunction with the crankshaft position sensors.  The distributor is 
just a spark router but the system has it's own separate ECU located 
near the passengers feet.  It also comes complete with a vacuum line.  
There is also a nifty little jumper on the harness at the back side of 
the left intake manifold.  Pull this sucker and your timing retards, 
perfect for those trips to Mexico. Usually the connector is red.

Kirby Palm wrote:
> 
> >Hey I've got an '89 XJS with Marelli ingitions system.  I have just installed
> >new wire, plugs, cap, and rotor.  My question is should I be able to check for
> >mechanical advance as described in Kirby's Manual?  When I did as describe I
> >only felt perhaps 1/16" movement.  However I believe the Marelli system is
> >completely different from the one Kirby described.
> 
> There are some modern ignition systems that perform advance functions
> electronically, and don't require a distributor at all.  However, judging
> from the exploded views of the systems, I don't think the Marelli in the Jag
> is such a critter.  I think it uses a mechanical centrifugal advance,
> essentially unchanged from the earlier models.  The only difference is how
> the spark is generated and distributed.
> 
> I also think your advance is stuck.
> 
>       --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,
>                        |  some rules must be broken.
>                        |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 09:22:19 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: Stalling

Kirby,

> No such luck; centrifugal advance should always have an eye kept on it.  If
> the cooling system is up to par, it may be able to keep the coolant at the
> proper temp no matter what, and a seized advance will burn your pistons
> anyway -- without the coolant ever exceeding boiling temp!
>
> Wonder if this is not clear to everyone?  Perhaps it should be clarified in
> my booklet.

could you please explain why the temperature won't go up ?

- - Matthias

------------------------------

From: robert dingli <r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 18:27:51 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: O2-sensor and sunroof

Are asks,

> My 82 XJ6 is an US-model, and was originally fitted with a  
> catalyst-system. When taken to Norway in -89, the catalyst was removed,  
> and the exhaust-system was replaced with an european one (state  
> regulations in Norway does not require catalyst on cars produced before  
> 1989). When I bought this car last year I found to my surprise that the  
> O2-sensor was still there, WELDED ON THE SURFACE OF THE MANIFOLD, thus  
> measuring in fresh air.
> 
> I is still in that position, and I wonder what to do about it. Should I  
> put it back in again? If so, I will have to drill a hole and weld a nut  
> on to get it back in.
> 
> The engine seems to perform very well, but fuel consumption is a bit  
> high. Since the O2-sensor now measures outside air, will it lead to  
> higher consumption because the ECU is giving more fuel to burn all that  
> oxygen? Does it make sense? 

A modern digital efi system would detect this as a fault and default to
open loop operation which may or may not be more efficient than closed
loop.  Since your ECU is before most systems went digital it may not be
smart enough to figure out that there is a fault, but should still have
some sort of limit to its operation which would explain any rich running.

I'd be tempted to reinstall the sensor (or even a new one by now).

Sorry, I can't help you with the sunroof question.

regards,
Robert

    Robert Dingli   r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au
Power and Control Systems    (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
     University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA 
**  he who dies with the most toys, wins  **

------------------------------

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 11:19:27 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: Centrifugal Advance - XJ-S

> 
> The Marelli ignition system does control timing electronically in 
> conjunction with the crankshaft position sensors.  The distributor is 
> just a spark router but the system has it's own separate ECU located 
> near the passengers feet.  It also comes complete with a vacuum line.  
> There is also a nifty little jumper on the harness at the back side of 
> the left intake manifold.  Pull this sucker and your timing retards, 
> perfect for those trips to Mexico. Usually the connector is red.

I think I read in the XJ-S issue of Jaguar World that the Marelli was fitted
when compression dropped from 12.5 to 11.5 for use of lower octane unleaded
fuel. The XJ-S got the new Marelli system, but the Saloon kept the "old"
system resulting in 291 bhp versus about 265 bhp for the Saloon. Would it 
make sense to consider to upgrade to the Marelli on a 12.5:1 XJ-S (like mine)
in order to get a little more HP ?

Thanks

- - Matthias

------------------------------

From: tony goodall <tony@goodall.u-net.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 10:44:29 +0100
Subject: RE:Hazy XJ40 Headlamp lens

At 12:38 17/04/96 +0100, Jan Wikstroem wrote:

>You're darn tootin' the chemicals are strong; what we have here is sodium 
>hydroxide in a strong enough solution to peel your skin off; the reflector 
>coating will disappear (not go dull, *disappear*) in the time it takes you to 
>start the machine and stop it again. Dishwasher manufacturers warn you against 
>putting any aluminium items in!
>

fair enough!!!!

tony
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dr. A. Goodall       http://www.u-net.com/~goodall/
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 05:27:00 -0700
Subject: Re: XK8 Prices

You wrote: 
>
>
>>From the best I can gather so far, the XK8 will sell for $75-95K 
(U.S.)
>depending on whether it's a coupe or convertible.

I was told by the local folks here that the convertible is suppossed to 
be in the $75k area NOT $95... 
>
kind regards
tony
- -- 
VICARAGE JAGUARS..............Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK			Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 		World Class Concours Restorations
fax  305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage   e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
http://www.oslonett.no/home/nick/vicarage.html

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 08:48:29 -0400
Subject: American Mechanics

>One thing I don't understand is why old cars seem to be so much more 
>unreliable in the USA than they are here. Is it the gas, the 
>mechanics, the DPO's the traffic, the roads the emission equipment ?

It's the mechanics.  If it ain't a Chevy lump, they have no idea what to do
with it, but they'll give 'er a go anyway.  For these snapperheads, putting
in a Chevy lump is a real improvement, because then they finally know how to
work on it!

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 09:37:10 -0400
Subject: Re: Centrifugal Advance - XJ-S

>I think I read in the XJ-S issue of Jaguar World that the Marelli was fitted
>when compression dropped from 12.5 to 11.5 for use of lower octane unleaded
>fuel. The XJ-S got the new Marelli system, but the Saloon kept the "old"
>system resulting in 291 bhp versus about 265 bhp for the Saloon.

Hmmm.  Since the US-spec XJ-S was already at 11.5:1 compression, did it change?

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #43
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jag-lovers-digest         Wednesday, 17 April 1996      Volume 02 : Number 044

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 09:37:05 -0400
Subject: Burnt Pistons

>> No such luck; centrifugal advance should always have an eye kept on it.  If
>> the cooling system is up to par, it may be able to keep the coolant at the
>> proper temp no matter what, and a seized advance will burn your pistons
>> anyway -- without the coolant ever exceeding boiling temp!
>
>could you please explain why the temperature won't go up ?

It might; the point is, they are two totally different things.  Running
retarded makes the engine very inefficient, meaning less of the energy of
the fuel goes into pushing the car forward and more of the energy goes into
generating heat.  The coolant will have more heat to handle, and if it is
incapable, it will boil.  However, it might just be capable, and keep the
coolant from boiling (not real likely on a Jaguar V-12, which is known to be
marginal to begin with, but there are many other cars with
more-than-adequate cooling systems).  Even when the cooling system keeps the
coolant within reasonable temps, the engine is still dumping more heat into
the metal parts than it should, and the pistons are only too likely to
suffer; they are only minimally affected by coolant temperature.

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 09:37:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Centrifugal Advance - XJ-S

>The Marelli ignition system does control timing electronically in 
>conjunction with the crankshaft position sensors.  The distributor is 
>just a spark router but the system has it's own separate ECU located 
>near the passengers feet.  It also comes complete with a vacuum line.  
>There is also a nifty little jumper on the harness at the back side of 
>the left intake manifold.  Pull this sucker and your timing retards, 
>perfect for those trips to Mexico. Usually the connector is red.

Cute!  My mistake, I was looking at the wrong pictures!

This, of course, means they have fixed one of the biggest causes of engine
failure in the car.  Provided, of course, that the electronic critter
doesn't cause as many problems as the mechanical did.

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 09:36:47 -0400
Subject: Re: XK8 Prices

>>From the best I can gather so far, the XK8 will sell for $75-95K (U.S.)
>depending on whether it's a coupe or convertible. 
>
>I must say that's somewhat of an sticker-shock. The sports car market
>in the U.S. isn't all that strong these days

Largely because there are no sports cars for sale!

>yet the marketing people at 
>Jaguar expect the XK8 to be more of a volume seller than the XJS.

Because it's a sports car rather than a luxury tourer.  Less competition.

>I haven't looked at Porches for a while, but I know they were having
>trouble moving 911's at under 70K. 

Largely because 911's are so ugly.  Great cars, but a strain to look at.

>I don't want to be discouraging, but 95K is getting closer to the Bentley
>realm (and we know how many of those get sold!).

Bentley sports cars?  I guess not many.

>Jaguar really needs to get their compact car project going. I think
>that's where BMW makes most of their money.

Jaguar needs to forget about what BMW is doing and work on their own niche
- -- which appears to be what they're doing.

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 09:36:57 -0400
Subject: Chopped Messages

>From BMack7316@aol.com:

> know of an easier way to acquire the parts to
>make the switch?

I have gotten several messages lately that have been chopped off at the
beginning.  I *think* they all came from AOL members.  Somebody needs to
call AOL and get them working on the problem.

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 09:44:16 -0400
Subject: Re: XK8 Prices

>>>From the best I can gather so far, the XK8 will sell for $75-95K 
>(U.S.)
>>depending on whether it's a coupe or convertible.
>
>I was told by the local folks here that the convertible is suppossed to 
>be in the $75k area NOT $95... 

Putting it in the realm of Vipers.  Now, only one step remains to making it
a big seller: a major race win at LeMans, Sebring, or Daytona.

Anyone who followed Daytona saw the 4.5 liter Auroras kick ass, embarrassing
Vipers, Corvettes, Lister, Bughatti, Camaro, et al.  If this XK8 is a true
Jag, it should mop the floor next year.  D'ya suppose Ford plans to promote
a racing program?

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: "J.W. Beckmeyer" <73131.3076@compuserve.com>
Date: 17 Apr 96 10:00:29 EDT
Subject: Re: A (sort of) philosophical question

>>Daniel Bowdoin wrote:

 >  > Is there anyone among us who is
>>using an E-type as your sole mode of > transportation, day in
>>and day out, with no alternative vehicle as a safety > net? Am
>>I completely or nearly out of my mind to be contemplating this
>>> possibility for myself?

Patrick Krejcik replied:

>>Sure, my E-Type is "my" daily transportation. My wife has a car
>>which is  "hers" and is used for hauling around the kids and
>>weekend trips. Does  that count? If my Jaguar were to break
>>down unexpectedly I would be  stuck without a means of
>>commuting. But its not going to break down  unexpectedly
>>because I know every inch of the car and I am attuned to  every
>>breath and murmur that it makes.

Patrick, I think you're on to something.

Back in the days when I was an active commercial pilot, I has the opportunity to
fly a couple of "older" aircraft, a DeHav. Heron and DC-3...later on I owned a
1946 Ercoupe.  I believe that a common thread can be found between safely
operating older aircraft and older automobiles. It is, imo, maintenance.

Daniel, you might try looking at the situation in a different light.  The
reliability faults in older cars are very well known...this wasn't the case when
the car was built.  For example, we all know that the Lucas electronics leave
something to be desired.  Well, just replace them with something more reliable
wherever possible.  

This is one technique I've borrowed from the aircraft mechanics I worked with
that I hope to apply to my MK II...as possible (up to, but not including the
engine!!!).   I would just love to dump the generator, ignition system and carbs
on the MK II for more reliable components (alternator, fuel injection  and
electronic ignition).  If reliability is the issue, then I see nothing wrong
with doing this.  OTOH, if you want to show the car, then the above suggestions
do not apply.

A second aspect to maintenance is routine inspections and preventive maint.  On
the aircraft that I flew, inspections were conducted every 100 hours and a big
annual inspection was conducted, you guessed it, every year.  But these
inspections could be scheduled to occur when the aircraft wasn't needed, like
weekends and such...therefore, no down time when the plane was scheduled for
use.  Couldn't you apply something like this to maintaining your e-type?

I'm quite certain that a good aircraft mechanic would tell you that a plane that
is maintained and serviced according to the book is as safe and reliable as a
newer plane.  As a pilot, I had as much confidence in my '46 Ercoupe as I had in
any recent model Cessna 152. Now, if I can transfer that confidence to my 1960
MK II  (as opposed to, let's say,  a new XK8) remains to be seen. But I would
bet that the number of *surprise* down times might be less for the MK II than
for the newer XK8 if I (first rebuild and) maintain the MK II as I have written
above.

In short Daniel, if you want to use the e-type as a daily driver, you want to
avoid the surprise down time and increase the scheduled, and expected, down
time. And to directly answer your question:

>> Am >>I completely or nearly out of my mind 

Probably. But no more so than all of the other great people on this list who
love (and take good care of) their Jags.

Good luck!
Jim Beckmeyer    Union CIty, MI USA
e-mail: 73131.3076@compuserve.com
90 Jaguar XJ-40-Sovereign
60 Jaguar MK II

------------------------------

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 16:45:56 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: Centrifugal Advance - XJ-S

> >I think I read in the XJ-S issue of Jaguar World that the Marelli was fitted
> >when compression dropped from 12.5 to 11.5 for use of lower octane unleaded
> >fuel. The XJ-S got the new Marelli system, but the Saloon kept the "old"
> >system resulting in 291 bhp versus about 265 bhp for the Saloon.
>  
> Hmmm.  Since the US-spec XJ-S was already at 11.5:1 compression, did it change?

I don't know. How much horse-power has a US XJ-S and a saloon with 11.5:1
compression ? 

- - Matthias

------------------------------

From: RWOODLIN@garfield.foods.indiana.edu
Date: 17 Apr 96 09:55:57 EDT
Subject: reply to philosophica

>>One thing I don't understand is why old cars seem to be so much more
>>unreliable in the USA than they are here. Is it the gas, the
>>mechanics, the DPO's the traffic, the roads the emission equipment ?

>It's the mechanics.  If it ain't a Chevy lump, they have no idea what to do
>with it, but they'll give 'er a go anyway.  For these snapperheads, putting
>in a Chevy lump is a real improvement, because then they finally know how to
>work on it!

John,

I must take exception to Kilbert's above reply.  American mechanics are 
no worse than any others, there are good and bad.  Probably the root 
cause of fewer older vehicles in the States is that we tend to be a 
society with a disposable mentality. (Yes, many of us disposed of any 
mental abilities we may have had some years ago! :-}) Because we have 
for too long viewed the good ole USA as the land of plenty we do not 
treat our possessions, especially our cars, with the same TLC much of 
the rest of the worl does.  Reality is starting to set in here so 
perhaps there will be a paradigm shift in the near future.

Robert Woodling
'84 XJ-S

------------------------------

From: "Jim Cantrell" <jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 09:19:58 MDT
Subject: Re: A (sort of) philosophica

Concerning using impractical cars for daily drivers:

> Life is too short to let fear stop you from doing what you want. I say do it.
> If it turns out to be too much of a hassle deal with it later, pick up a $1000
> junker if reliability turns out to be a problem.

Hooray !  I can't agree more.  Most us, if honest, would admit that 
we drive cars that aren't ordinary for the same reasons, and 
practicality isn't one of them.  When I get into one of my many odd 
cars to go to work in the morning, the world changes completely - if 
only for a moment.  And its worth all of the hassles.
> 
> I drive a 21 year old Ferrari to work, when it is in the shop I ride a Ducati
> 900SS. (My wife has the XJS) These are not rational choices, they are
> emotional. They keep my sanity and love of life alive. If you belong to this
> list you already have demonstrated high emotional drive. Reach out with your
> feelings, what do you WANT to do?
> 
> Few people get to do what they want to do in life. Be one of them.
> 
 Once again, good advice.  Cars are made to be driven - DRIVE IT.  I
 had a beautiful 63 E-type roadster 12 years ago that I drove every
 day to work (except when it snowed - and then I had an old 63
 Chevy II to kill).  The memories that I still have from those
 experiences is worth every penny that the car cost.  I should add
 that the car was quite reliable and moderatley thrifty on gas if I
 could keep my foot out of it.  I continue to drive impractical
 cars every day and I have recently acquired 2 XJC's  (XJ6C and
 XJ12C).  One I plan to drive daily myself and my wife will drive
 the other.  I would strongly encourage you to do what you want to ! 

Best Regards,

Jim Cantrell

------------------------------

From: LLoyd <3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@cmsa.berkeley.edu>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 96 08:17:58 PDT
Subject: Another Mk II question

  Another Mk II question (does it sound like I may buy one?) I've recently
talked to a guy with a '59 Mark I (he thinks it's a I and not a II). It's an
export to the US, by the way.
  What is the difference between the Mk I and Mk II? 2.8 to 3.4 motor? Are
the 2.8's powerful enough to pull the hills? Do some have Air conditioning?
Is $6,000. (US) too much to pay for one? It has a 4 speed/OD but no air.

  LLoyd    II Mk or not to Mk, that is the question.

------------------------------

From: LOGAN@yaleads.ycc.yale.edu
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 96 11:42:01 EDT
Subject: Re: A (sort of) philosophical question

On Tue, 16 Apr 96 13:00:40 EDT you said: Is there anyone among us who is using an E-type as your sole mode of transportation, day in and day out, with no alternative vehicle as a safety net? Am I completely or nearly out of my mind to be contemplating this possibility for myself? I'm not doing it now, but 30 years ago (when I had a bit more hair on my head) I drove a beautiful '64 roadster for 10+ years as my sole source of transportation. It was a wonderful period in my life!!! I highly recommend you go for it :-) Eric Logan From: elgparts@xnet.com (Dennis Murphy) Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 11:11:03 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Re: A (sort of) philosophica Andy wrote:

>Life is too short to let fear stop you from doing what you want. I say do it.
>If it turns out to be too much of a hassle deal with it later, pick up a $1000
>junker if reliability turns out to be a problem.
>
>I drive a 21 year old Ferrari to work, when it is in the shop I ride a Ducati
>900SS. (My wife has the XJS) These are not rational choices, they are
>emotional. They keep my sanity and love of life alive. If you belong to this
>list you already have demonstrated high emotional drive. Reach out with your
>feelings, what do you WANT to do?
>
>Few people get to do what they want to do in life. Be one of them.

The world would be a better place if we all lived by this philosophy!

Dennis Murphy
Geneva, IL
1952 XK 120
1990 XJ-S

------------------------------

From: elgparts@xnet.com (Dennis Murphy)
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 11:11:06 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: A (sort of) philosophica

>One thing I don't understand is why old cars seem to be so much more 
>unreliable in the USA than they are here. Is it the gas, the 
>mechanics, the DPO's the traffic, the roads the emission equipment ?
>
>John McDonagh
>Department of Accounting Finance and Property Studies
>Lincoln University
>Christchurch

John,

It's probably due to our genetic make-up. We havwe an aversion to
preventitive maintanence. A lot of us ignore a noise until something breaks,
then we are surprised when we are stranded! Most US cars are lucky to get an
oil change once in a while.

Dennis Murphy
Geneva, IL
1952 XK 120
1990 XJ-S

------------------------------

From: "White, Dick" <white@msgate.columbiasc.ncr.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 96 12:21:00 edt
Subject: Carlisle Swap Meet

To Everyone,

Does anyone know anything about the swap meet at Carlisle, PA, USA this 
coming weekend?  I understand it is very large, but is it dominated by Ford 
and Chevy's?  I understand from John Shuck that there is a Carlisle-import 
swap meet in May but I'm curious about this one.  Will there be any jag 
stuff there?  Anyone been there?

Regards,
Dick White
Columbia, SC
'64 3.8 S-Type
'58 XK 150 FHC

------------------------------

From: "White, Dick" <white@msgate.columbiasc.ncr.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 96 12:26:00 edt
Subject: RE: Jaguar directory -- NOT-well almost

To all,

I was incorrect when I said the link to the JCNA clubs was missing.  It's 
there, you just push the button in the middle of the page that says 'next 
page' and you're there.  My apologies to Jon.  It was my first day back from 
vacation, at least that's my excuse.

Regards,
Dick White
Columbia, SC
'64 3.8 S-Type
'58 XK 150 FHC
 ----------
>From: White, Dick
>To: GrateflJag; jag-lovers
>Subject: RE: Jaguar directory -- NOT - well almos
>Date: Monday, April 15, 1996 10:15PM
>
>
>Mark,
>
>The URL for All Jaguar Clubs is http://www.intex.net/~cci/index.html,
>although the link to the list of the Jag clubs seems to be missing at the
>moment (I will send Jon an e-mail).  

------------------------------

From: LLoyd <3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@cmsa.berkeley.edu>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 96 10:29:43 PDT
Subject: burnt pistons

   My experience with retarded timing is that it tends to burn the valves
(exhaust valves) before it will burn a piston.
   And it will almost certainly be running too hot inthe mean time.

  LLoyd

------------------------------

From: Ryan Border <rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 11:13:34 -0700
Subject: re: Another MK2 (MK1) question

Egads- 2 MK1 questions in the same week!?!? 

Lloyd writes:

>  Another Mk II question (does it sound like I may buy one?) I've recently
>talked to a guy with a '59 Mark I (he thinks it's a I and not a II). It's an
>export to the US, by the way.

>  What is the difference between the Mk I and Mk II? 

I'll (mostly) quote directly from my own little spotters guide:
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
MK1: 
 Introduced in 1955 as the 2.4L Saloon, the MKI is the first unibody 
 (frameless) car Jaguar built. The styling reflects this, in several 
 conservative treatments: 

    Small windows, especially the rear 
    Heavy door pillars 
    Thick A Pillars 

There are two distinct flavors of MKI's. In 1957 Jaguar, recognizing that 
the 2.4L powerplant was somewhat anemic (especially in the U.S. market), 
began offering the car in a 3.4L version. To accomodate the extra load on 
the cooling system, a wider grille was introduced, similar to that found 
on an XK150. All later (after the introduction of the 3.4L Saloon) MKI's have 
this wide grille styling. Also, at this time, the rear spats were
changed from a full coverage (flat bottom) style, to a spat virtually 
indistinguishable from a MKII spat.

Rear track 4" narrower than the front, gives the cars an odd (to some) 
appearance from the rear.  Front turn signals are centered vertically on 
the front wings.

Trivia: The MKI was never sold as the "MKI"- it official name was the 
"2.4L/3.4L Saloon". It was with the introduction of the MKII that the 
earlier cars started to be referred to as the MKI; what they are now most 
commonly known as.

- ------------------------------------------------------------------------

MK2:
 Re-design of the MKI. Significant differences were in the roof, rear window 
shape, front and rear suspension, rear track, and engine availability. 

    Rear track widened 3" from the MKI. Rear bodywork redesigned to 
    incorporate this. 

    Grille redesigned, to incorporate a center vane. Grille boss housed in 
    the top section of this vane. 

    Chrome ("lighter") side window surrounds.  Rear side windows extended
    back into C-pillars.

    Daimler versions sold as the 2.5L V8 Saloon. 

At http://www.best.com/~border/pages/jag/spot/little.shtml I've got pictures
of both (you're probably familliar with the MK2) that show some of the
differences.

>2.8 to 3.4 motor? Are the 2.8's powerful enough to pull the hills? 

In good shape the 2.4 (not 2.8) motor has around 110HP.  The 2.4 is still
and XK motor, and shares many many parts with a 3.4.  The reduced
displacement comes via shortening the stroke (and cutting off the top of
the block) of a 3.4.  Bore (I believe) is the same. Other than the reduced
stroke the biggest difference is in carbs- the 2.4 uses twin down-draft Solex
carbs, and accordingly has it's own special intake manifold.

My 2.4 was never really healthy enough to fully assess the motors performance
potential.  Still, it didn't do too badly.  With such a short stroke it's 
reputation is that of a motor which rev's well, but is it's biggest 
shortcomming (as compared to a 3.4) is probably a lack of low end torque.

>Do some have Air conditioning?
I don't think so.  No sun-roofs either.

>Is $6,000. (US) too much to pay for one? It has a 4 speed/OD but no air.

Depends, as always, on condition.  I think top-end value for a MK1 (a perfect,
3.4L, wire wheel, 4sp overdrive, bucket seats, etc.) is probably in the 
$15-$20K range.  Quite a bit less than a comparable MK2.  Just like a MK2
rust is probably the biggest gotcha.

FWIW, I think my MK1 is a great car!  Go for it.  I also see you're in
Berkely, not too far from me (in Mountain View).  If you want to come
down and poke around another (my) MK1 and maybe go for a ride just let me 
know.
===== __ ============================================================== |> ===
     /\_\           Ryan Border                           o~_ o~_     __|    *
    / / /           Hewlett Packard Company, Inc.          >/-.>/'_  /_o|    *
   / / /_  _______  Software Design Engineer             ( )\---\(*)-( )'    *
  / / /__\/\______\ email: rborder@cup.hp.com or border@best.com             *
 / / __  / / __   / 19111 Pruneridge Ave. mailstop 42LX, Cupertino, CA 95014 *
/ / / / / / /_\/ /  (408) 447-2496      FAX: (408) 447-0641                  *
\/_/\/_/ / _____/   WWW: http://www.best.com/~border/howdy.html              *
===== / / / ==================================================================
      \/_/                

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 14:53:10 -0400
Subject: Old Cars vs. Safety and the Environment

Thought I'd bring up a topic for discussion, one that might be of interest
to many jag-lovers.  It was discussed some at the Rocky Mountain Jaguar Club
meeting I attended.

As all of us are probably aware, there is a trend worldwide to discourage
the use of older cars on the grounds that they are dangerous to other
motorists, and that they pollute a lot.  Japan, in fact, has a vehicle
taxation/inspection program that results in perfectly good cars -- and I
mean cars with 30,000 easy miles on them -- being driven down to the
junkyard and scrapped when they are ten years old.

I suspect that such a program would, in fact, be beneficial for both safety
and the environment, whereever it was implemented.  But that doesn't
necessarily mean it's worth it.

I think that people generally conjure up one of two different images when
they think about "old cars".  One is the old E-type, Ferrari, Aston Martin,
Chevy, whatever, carefully restored and/or maintained by a loving owner and
driven carefully or not at all.  The other is the 20-year-old rustbucket,
missing several body parts, that has had the oil changed once per decade
whether it needed it or not, and the owner drives the piss out of it and
will abandon it where it stops if it ever breaks down.

IMHO, those who support restrictions or bans on old cars are universally
thinking about the latter.  I don't think anybody, except maybe the most
zealous electric-car-driving tree-hugger, supports banning collector cars.
But how do you deal with one without infringing on the other?

There apparently are several possibilities:

1)  Ignore the safety and environment issues, tell the environmentalists to
get a life.  Tempting choice, but may not work for long.

2)  Require all cars, old and new, to meet safety and emission requirements.
The problem here is that, even when new and/or in perfect condition, a
pre-smog car pollutes about 20 times what a modern car does, and many also
had poorly designed brakes and suspensions by modern standards.  This is
part of the argument for banning.  To effectively counter this argument,
owners of older cars might have to upgrade safety equipment and install smog
equipment that was developed after the car was built!  So much for originality.

3)  Try to write legislation that prohibits junkers without prohibiting
classics.  Difficult, since a 25-year-old pickup truck can be either a
classic or a junker.

4)  Place some sort of fee or registration cost on old cars, enough to
encourage drivers of old junkers to get newer cars to save money, but
reasonable enough to have little effect on the classic car buff.  Might
work, but also might take money from the classic car buff that he otherwise
would have spent improving his car's safety and reducing it's tendency to
burn oil!

The Rocky Mountain Jaguar Club was apparently taking the tact that, if they
do their part in supporting the ban on visible polluters and actively report
all violators they encounter, they will help avoid the need for further
legislation.  I, for one, am not sure this tactic is likely to work for long.

While you all are cogitating on this issue, let me add one more reminder:
Whenever and whereever this becomes a political hot-button issue, the big
auto companies -- with all their $$$ -- are gonna come down in SUPPORT of
banning older cars.  The classic car buffs are gonna find themselves in
underdog status in a big hurry, and acting like zealots or reactionaries is
not gonna help.  It would be nice if we all had our thoughts in order before
it happens, and were able to formulate a plan of defense for when the time
comes.

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: alindsay@fit.edu (ALEX H. LINDSAY)
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 15:22:08 -0400
Subject: Re: A (sort of) philosophical question

>To: danlb@nando.net (Daniel  Bowdoin)
>From: alindsay@fit.edu (ALEX H. LINDSAY)
>Subject: Re: A (sort of) philosophical question
>
>>Is there anyone among us who is using an E-type as your sole mode of
>>transportation, day in and day out, with no alternative vehicle as a safety
>>net? Am I completely or nearly out of my mind to be contemplating this
>>possibility for myself?
>>
>        I think it would depend on what year car you are planning on using.
I have a '63 E-type that was my main means of year round transportation for
5 years (I did have a 1950 Willy's Jeep for when it really got bad, if you
want to consider that as a back-up). I drove at least 80 miles a day
commuting and, as mentioned in a previous post, was only stranded 3 times.
Once was due to a carbon tracked rotor, easily replaced (if I had a spare),
a burned out wheel bearing (should have repacked it sooner), and a cracked
oil pan due to a speed bump with a lump of ice on top. During this time the
car saw no special service or care. Change the oil, tune it up
occassionally, put gas in the tank and go. Granted, the car was only about
ten years old at the time but did have 100,000 miles on it. I also had
rebuilt the engine.
>        The reason I mentioned the year being important is that the early
cars were so simple. Point/coil ignition system and manual just about
everything else. Really very little to go wrong. You could carry and entire
tune-up kit with you and a few simple tools to fix most anything that went
wrong, at least enough to get you home. When I'm finished with my
restoration, I would not hesitate to take it anywhere.
>        That, at least has been my experience. Maybe I just have been
lucky. I have heard all the tails about problems with Lucas electrical
systems but can't corraborate this. When I stored the car years ago, it was
13 years old with 135,000 miles on it. When I got the car out of storage 3
years ago, the only thing I had to replace to get it running was the starter
solenoid. The original starter still cranked, the original generator still
charged and all the blowers, fans, lights, gauges, switches still worked. 
>        Now if it wasn't for all that body work I have to do.  
>
>
Alex H. Lindsay

------------------------------

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #44
*******************************

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jag-lovers-digest         Thursday, 18 April 1996      Volume 02 : Number 045

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: elgparts@xnet.com (Dennis Murphy)
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 11:11:06 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: A (sort of) philosophica

- ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>One thing I don't understand is why old cars seem to be so much more
>unreliable in the USA than they are here. Is it the gas, the
>mechanics, the DPO's the traffic, the roads the emission equipment ?
>
>John McDonagh
>Department of Accounting Finance and Property Studies
>Lincoln University
>Christchurch

Another opinion,

  I believe that most of the unwashed masses (the-masses or them-asses, depend-
ing on how you pronounce it) are so spoiled that they do not care to pay
attention to their cars, or even chect the instrument panel gages for that
matter.  I've seen people run out of gas and not be able to figure out why
the car won't run, drive on flat tires until they catch fire, blow engines
because they don't add oil, blow engines from not adding water, you name it.
  Unconscious. That's the word I'm looking for. Americans are unconscious.

  LLoyd

------------------------------

From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 21:51:47 +0000
Subject: [Admin] Center for potentially useful info

Just some potentially useful info:

1) To post to the list send mail to jag-lovers@sn.no,
   *no* other address will work.

2) To unsubscribe, send mail to majordomo@sn.no, with
   the text:
               unsubscribe jag-lovers
       or      unsubscribe jag-lovers-digest

   If this doesn't work you have probably in som way
   changed you mail-address since you first subscribed.
   In this case drop me a line and I'll try to help.

3) The web-site is at http://www.sn.no/home/nick/jaguar.html
   Among a dazzling array of informative information, this
   is where the mailing-list archives are available. Get
   them, read them.

4) If you have material you think might be nice for the
   web-site, mail me.

5) This is another nag for you, Lawrence ;-)

6) Regarding the subject: Yes, I just got my hands on a
   couple of tapes of CarTalk :-) Aural bliss and my
   favorite listening when driving to and fro work. Too
   bad I haven't got a source anymore... :-(

Nick
- --
<<<  Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC  >>>     
<<<       Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto        >>> 
>>> The JagWeb  http://www.sn.no/~nick/jaguar.html <<<

------------------------------

From: "Himes,John W." <jwh@dw.att.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 96 15:28:00 PDT
Subject: Speedometer problem

Peter W. Karpien wrote:

>Last weekend I took a small jaunt (150miles each way) down to
>Binghamton New York.  The car performed wonderfully except for the
>odometer which stopped working sometime on the way down.

>From what Ive read on the list I seem to recall that the signal to the
>odometer
>and the trip
>computer comes from the same transducer in the tranny.  Correct me if Im
>wrong.
>At present the trip computer is still measuring distance correctly as well 
as
>all other
>measurements, and my speedometer and tach are functioning fine as well.
> I am assuming then, that the problem is in the odometer gauge itself.

I do not know about trouble shooting but looking at my JAGUAR service manual 
(XJ-S) Volume 4 page 88-02 shows a schematic and states that the pulse 
signal comes from the speed transducer situated in the transmission in place 
of the angle drive.  The service interval counter (NAS market only) is 
situated in the boot compartment.  The manual shows how to remove and 
replace the gauge, but not how to trouble shoot.  It does show a little on 
how to trouble shoot the trip computer which does not apply here.

It sounds like an internal problem to me within the gauge where the wheels 
of distance no longer wish to turn, but the magnet that indicated speed is 
still all to happy to function.
( Guess your gauge wants to help keep you from getting speeding tickets, 
while maintaining the value of the car by keeping the miles off the clock 
;-)  )

But then again I am not the worlds greatest mechanic or authority on these 
things.  Just enough to keep my car rolling downhill.  The tow truck helps 
it get back up :-)

John Himes
88 XJ-S 93K miles and running good...

------------------------------

From: lwalden@ebmud.com (Lee Walden)
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 17:02:56 -0700
Subject: Re: Old Cars vs. Safety and the Environment

At 14:53 1996/04/17 -0400, Kirby Palm wrote:
>Thought I'd bring up a topic for discussion, one that might be of interest
>to many jag-lovers.  It was discussed some at the Rocky Mountain Jaguar Club
>meeting I attended.
>
>I suspect that such a program would, in fact, be beneficial for both safety
>and the environment, whereever it was implemented.  But that doesn't
>necessarily mean it's worth it.

>There apparently are several possibilities:
>
>1)  Ignore the safety and environment issues, tell the environmentalists to
>get a life.  Tempting choice, but may not work for long.
>
 Just because one country (or state in my case) decides to "toughen up" the
pollution laws doesn't do "anything" globally for the environment, but makes
them get a warm fuzzy for "doing their part".  eg Calif requires very strict
SMOG requirements and vapor recovery nozzles on gas pumps, but go across the
boarder to Mexico or Nevada or Arizona, and no vapor recovery systems to be
found.  It should be all or nothing, and for third world areas $$$ will
drive the move to "cleaning up" their act, otherwise the "environmentalist"
can go take a flying leap.

>2)  Require all cars, old and new, to meet safety and emission requirements.
>The problem here is that, even when new and/or in perfect condition, a
>pre-smog car pollutes about 20 times what a modern car does, and many also
>had poorly designed brakes and suspensions by modern standards.  This is
>part of the argument for banning.  To effectively counter this argument,
>owners of older cars might have to upgrade safety equipment and install smog
>equipment that was developed after the car was built!  So much for originality.
>
Based on events I've personally experienced, I'll put the JAG Saloons Mark X
and newer up against any Detroit Iron.  My brother had a guy rear-end him in
a Ford sedan.  The Ford was totaled, and the Jag suffered a broken tail
light and a small scratch in the bumper.  My grandad hit a guy who stopped
at the top of a merging on-ramp to the freeway.  Smashed in the guys trunk
and bumper.  His Mark X got a little dent in the top of the grill, and one
of the overriders on his bumper.  Our Mark X's, both '66 have 4-wheel disc
brakes, and corner as well as or better than most sport cars.  As far as
smog goes, when properly "tuned" they don't put out very much pollution.  I
could always add a cat to the exhaust system.  The biggest problem the 4.2's
have is they like to run at 80 MPH where they get good gas mileage.  Running
them at 55Mph is the pitts.

Here's a possibility to the SMOG problem which wouldn't require modification
to the "Originality" of the engine set-up.

There is a guy in Reno who developed a new type of fuel which really sounds
promising.  It's made out of Naptha and H20 (water for you non-chemical
types).  Catepillar Tractors is sponsoring his work.  The fuel can be used
in either diesels or gasoline engines.  Diesels require a $120.00 USD mod,
and then the engine can burn either diesel or his A50 solution.  Whats
really wild, is a car running this WITHOUT any "SMOG" equipment has
emmissions which are lower than the California year 2010 levels!  He's
ramping up the production to 50,000 gallons a month, and so far Catepillar
is gung-ho for it.  The fuel costs less to make than gasoline, so Standard
Oil and others are also looking into it.  His engine tear-downs show no
appreciable difference in wear, compared to engines running gas or the
diesels running diesel.  Current concerns are the ability of the fuel to not
freeze in colder climates.  Lee

------------------------------

From: Noah Dater <ndater@moose.uvm.edu>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 20:09:59 -0700
Subject: Re: Speedometer problem

My odometor has stopped working a few times, and it is generaly because the trip 
counter (not the computer) rolled over. For some reason the odometer is getting bound up 
when this happens. To fix it I just need to push the button a few times.  This 
usually works. I hope that it is this simple, but its worth a try.

	Noah
	83 XJ6
- -- 

"When I die, I'd like to go peacefully.
     In my sleep.
     Like my grandfather.
     Not screaming,
     like the passengers in his car..."
                                        -- anonymous--
        -----------------------------------------------------------

Noah Dater                 ----ndater@moose.uvm.edu----
Burlington, VT

------------------------------

From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 96 17:11:25 PDT
Subject: Re: XK8 Prices

>>From the best I can gather so far, the XK8 will sell for $75-95K (U.S.)
>>depending on whether it's a coupe or convertible.
>>
>>I must say that's somewhat of an sticker-shock. The sports car market
>>in the U.S. isn't all that strong these days

>Largely because there are no sports cars for sale!

Kirby:

  The reason there are fewer and fewer sports cars these days is because
of the weaking demand, partly due to the popularity of sports-utilities.
I'd say the Nissan 300ZX and Toyota Supra are practical, well-made
sports cars (although I don't like them), yet there's not enough market
for them these days. The same goes for the Acura NSX. I find it alarming
that the XK8 is going into the same arena the Japanese are exiting out of,
and selling at ever-higher prices.

>Jaguar needs to forget about what BMW is doing and work on their own niche

Well, if Jaguar can build a sports-compact car in the same vein as the
old MK II, I would certainly welcome it (I just don't want to see
a Taurus look-alike though!) 

- -- 
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Roger Peng                                     (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 96 17:17:41 PDT
Subject: Re: A (sort of) philosophical question

> Is there anyone among us who is
>using an E-type as your sole mode of transportation,

I am an idealist like many of you, but I still wouldn't do it.
Like someone else suggested, you at least need another cheap
Japanese junker to run around in.

To expand on your question, here are my opinions as to which
Jag models are suitable for daily transport:

XJ40               Yes
XJS                Only if late model
XJ6 series III     Tes
XJ6 series II      no
XJ6 series I       Maybe, if mostly rebuilt
XJ12 series I-III  no
XKE                forget it

- -- 
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Roger Peng                                     (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Craig Tiano <ctiano@voicenet.com>
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 20:42:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Carlisle Swap Meet

At 12:21 PM 4/17/96 edt, you wrote:
>
>To Everyone,
>
>Does anyone know anything about the swap meet at Carlisle, PA, USA this 
>coming weekend?  I understand it is very large, but is it dominated by Ford 
>and Chevy's?  I understand from John Shuck that there is a Carlisle-import 
>swap meet in May but I'm curious about this one.  Will there be any jag 
>stuff there?  Anyone been there?

The spring Carlisle show is dominated by Chevy, Ford (mustang primarily),
and Chrysler guys. Same with the Fall Carlisle. They also have speciality
shows for Ford, Chevy, and Chrysler. The spring and fall shows are an
all-day walk on uneven ground, up and down hills and quite tiring. What
british cars I've seen at Spring/Fall Carlisle have mostly been the more
common MG's and Triumphs.  

The import show has been getting worse and worse to the point I probably
won't even bother this year. Mostly consists of MG's. Took me 2 hours to get
there and I spent a total of 90 minutes walking around, which allowed me to
see everything twice. I purchased 2 gauges and a windscreen washer tank and
went home and put them in the car. The price was fair, but certainly not
worth the 4 hour drive and admission cost. 

If you want a good show, visit Hershey in the fall. October 9-12. Plan on
spending 3 solid days if you want to see "most of it". While at Carlisle,
you could probably purchase the more common parts to restore your mustang,
at Hershey you could start by buying a frame and walk around buying EVERY
other part necessary, no matter how esoteric. Lots of british cars there,
but scattered all over the place, no rhyme or reason, and not all cataloged
in the excellent $6 map/index they sell. You really have to walk the 60+
miles of aisles to see what people have for sale. Last year I spent 2 days
and saw it all, and needed another 4 to recover... But I did find the
elusive owners manual for a 1979 Daimler DS420 as well as an original sales
brochure.

Craig Tiano
- -------------------------------------------
homepage: http://www.voicenet.com/~ctiano
email: ctiano@voicenet.com
- -------------------------------------------
American Eskimo Dogs, Photography,
Antique Cars, HTML/CGI/Datacomm guru

From: BMack7316@aol.com
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 20:54:52 -0400
Subject: XJS Wheels on SIII

I spotted a black 84 VDP with these rims and it has become irresisitable to
me. The owner, a talkitive gentleman named Kurt, happened to be sitting in
the car so I quizzed him on the details. He said they bolt right on (but
only with XJS lug nuts) and the XJS wheels only track 1/2" wider than stock

– which is just fine provided that the tires aren’t larger than factory
specified 215 70.

I’ve tried to like the stock SIII aluminum rims (some call them Kensington)
but they don’t work for me. I toiled with selecting a set of aftermarket
rims, but none float my boat – either too aero-modern or they clash with the
XJ sedan styling. Lace BBS are so-so and as for wires – I have enough of a
time keeping the wheels true on the mountain bikes!

Replacing Jag wheels with different Jag wheels is sort of chic.

Anybody know where I can get (five) five-spoke XJ-S (circa mid-80s)
wheels for a reasonable price?
Any suggestions on getting the coating on an existing set refurbished?

Danke
Brad Mack
85 XJ6
85 XJS
92 Pathfinder

From: “mark (m.d.) roberts” markdr@bnr.ca
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 21:30:00 -0400
Subject: Re: 7" headlights

Just in case some of you may have forgotten, the Canadian
spec. Series III cars all had the 7" outboard lights from
1987 to the end of the series III XJ12 production
in 1992. This includes the last year (1/2 year) of
production of the XJ6 and Sovereign Series III cars,
before the XJ40’s came out.

Our '88 VDP series III has the 7" lights, and the
little wipers to boot…and they still work well.

If any of our American cousins would like a price quote
from my local Jag dealer, just let me know. I’m sure
I could get them and ship them down south in under
a year.

BTW, took the VDP in for the Spring service today, and
as usual, it was snowing. Soooo…who’s hogging all the
heat from that big lightbulb in the sky !!! Samantha
doesn’t like getting her “feet” cold or wet.

Regards, Mark R.

Mark Roberts Phone (613) 763-2924
Ottawa, Ontario, CANADA Fax: (613) 763-3970
1988 VDP - SIII V12 email: markdr@nortel.ca
1963 3.8L E-Type Coupe - 15 years into a 3 year project

From: cci@intex.net (Reginald J. G. Heber)
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 20:42:13 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: a/c amplifier

Hello Hal,
re xj6 a/c amplfier -
“The unit comes with a 5 year warranty. We are offering a special “net” price
just to get the word out. Only $175.00. For those of you in the “business”,
we also have a trade program for installers and parts distributors.:”

If you will send me the particulars, orig p/n, your p/n, application,
cost,etc, I will add it to the "Interchangeable Parts’ section at
http://www.intex.net/~cci/index.html.

Regards, Jon

From: sfisher@sola.com.au (Scot Fisher)
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 96 21:19 CST
Subject: USA, Land of plenty

Probably the root cause of fewer older vehicles in the States
is that we tend to be a society with a disposable mentality.
(Yes, many of us disposed of any mental abilities we may have
had some years ago! :-}) Because we have for too long viewed
the good ole USA as the land of plenty we do not treat our
possessions, especially our cars, with the same TLC much of the
rest of the worl does. Reality is starting to set in here so
perhaps there will be a paradigm shift in the near future.
Robert Woodling
'84 XJ-S

Land of pllenty, perhaps, land of cheap cars certainly! Nothing
breeds respect for a car faster than its price. If you pay a lot
for a car (even a 2nd hand one) you will be prepared to look
after it (in general). Cars in the USA seem to be so cheap they
are treated as a consumable rather than a consumer item.

I see from the 1996 Consumer Reports ‘Annual Auto Issue’ that the
XJ6 is around $60,000 US in Australia it would set you back about
$90,000 US. And looking through the mag the Jaguar is one of
‘the’ most expensive cars on test. Cars like the E-Class Mercedes
are ridiculous! In the US you can get one for $40,000 US while in
Aus you would pay $70,000 US. Mazda RX7s for $25,000 US!!! Ha
try $55,000 US in Australia. 3000GT Mitsubishi for $25,000,
forgive me while I go weep…$70,000 US here. Infact in the US it
looks like for under about $30K you can pick up just about anything
except an exotic import.

And for the record a 1982 XJ6 in good condition will cost you about
$13,000 US. On the other hand we don’t have snow, salt or much rust
here so 2nd hand cars are generally in good nick.

Regards Scott.

Scott Fisher [sfisher@sola.com.au] PH: (08)329-28341.

                                                         _--_|\       N

SOLA OPTICAL / \ W + E
International Holdings Research Center _.–*_/ S
Adelaide, South Australia v

Joy is a Jaguar XJ6 with a flat battery, a blown oil seal and an unsympathetic
wife, 9km outside of a small remote town, 3:15am on a cold wet winters morning.

From: cci@intex.net (Reginald J. G. Heber)
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 21:11:45 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: a/c sytem (mal)function in '77 XJ6C

Have A/C, must travel,
Unfortunate the trip is from Dallas to Cooperstown, NY for a family reunion

vacation - the last week of June thru 2nd week of July. More tolerable in
the southern hemisphere than here 'cause the heater works fine but the A/C…

Actually, the refrigeration system works well enough (unless it’s compared
to my wife’s Honda); the problem seems to be in the air handler part of the
system.
At times, with fan control on OFF, warm/hot air flows from side vents (when
car is in motion). Sometimes not.
At times, warm/hot air flows from side vents (sometimes from center vent
too) when A/C switch in LOW, or AUTO, or HIGH and rheostat set on 65.
Sometimes, the system seems to be working fairly well except that it doesn’t
produce really cold air; cool enough to get by except on a REAL summer day.
In all cases, the compressor is functioning and engine bay fittings are cold
or warm at the appropriate spots.

I have looked in British Leyland and Haynes manuals for a vacuum system
diagram, to no avail. I would like to ensure that the lines are in good
condition and properly routed.

Any thoughts on availability of pneumatic system diagram? or (to you guys
with the experience) obvious cause(s)?
Your thoughts/advice will be appreciated!

Regards, Jon

From: “Sleeman, Chris (Exchange)” ChrisSl@mel.praxa.com.au
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 12:08:24 +1000
Subject: RE: Speedometer problem

I have a problem with the odometer on my '76 Daimler double six also. If I
reset the trip counter while the car is moving, a while later the odometer
freezes. To fix, I simply reset the trip counter the next time I come to a
stop. This would be useful for clocking up personal usage kilometers when
you are trying to keep the business percentage use of the car high for tax
reasons. I don’t do this myself though because I like to keep an accurate
track of my mileage for servicing. When the problem first occurred I
envisaged rebuilding the speedometer, but after I found the workaround it
hasn’t bothered me. I simply reset the trip counter before I start the car.

Has anyone else had this problem with Series IIs?

I have heard (well actually seen) this kind of trick being deliberately
used in aircraft to falsify the time counter. This gains a few extra hours
before having to spend money on a 100 hourly service.

Regards,

Chris Sleeman

chrissl@praxa.com.au

From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 22:33:15 -0400
Subject: Getrag

Has anyone installed a 5 or 6 speed conversion kit in an E-type? How much
does this cost? How hard is it to do? Is the result wort the effort?

From: “Robert Robinson” R_squared@msn.com
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 96 03:52:40 UT
Subject: RE: Old Cars vs. Safety and the Environment

Kirbert wrote…

As all of us are probably aware, there is a trend
worldwide to discourage the use of older cars on
the grounds that they are dangerous to other
motorists, and that they pollute a lot. Japan, in fact,
has a vehicle taxation/inspection program that results
in perfectly good cars – and I mean cars with 30,000
easy miles on them – being driven down to the
junkyard and scrapped when they are ten years old.

…and thereby he raises an issue that should loom large for anyone remotely
interested in automobiles.

I’ve contemplated this point for years - and done essentially nothing. It’s
not hard to imagine however, that legislation could soon appear which bans
your and my classic vehicles from the roads. Don’t believe it? Well, it
wasn’t very long ago that my relatives from Germany laughed at my U.S. spec.
BMW’s lack of “go” when they drove it while visiting here. Now their
home-market cars are equipped with exactly the same emissions equipment and
they’re not laughing anymore.

In sports racing we’ve already seen severe restrictions on the types of fuels
that can be used - not to mention the recent noise restrictions that have been
put in place. Alone, these changes aren’t so bad - but do they signal the
inevitability of even more severe restrictions? Most likely, yes.

Classic cars do pollute more. But they represent a very, very small part of
the auto population. Perhaps classic auto organizations can begin regulating
themselves (and, thereby, earn “good citizen” standing) by insisting that
member’s vehicles not only look as good as when they left the factory, but run
as cleanly also. You can bet that Uncle Elmo’s 1947 junker won’t pass that
test.

Most important is this: How do we, as a community of car-lovers (Jag-lovers?)
protect ourselves? Make ourselves heard? Speak as one?

Robert Robinson
Newport Beach, CA.
R_squared@msn.com

“It is better to go into a corner slow and come out fast,
than to go into a corner fast and come out dead.”
- Sterling Moss

From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Wed, 17 Apr 1996 21:51:47 +0000
Subject: [Admin] Center for potentially useful info

Just some potentially useful info:

To post to the list send mail to jag-lovers@sn.no,
no other address will work.
To unsubscribe, send mail to majordomo@sn.no, with
the text:
unsubscribe jag-lovers
or unsubscribe jag-lovers-digest

If this doesn’t work you have probably in som way
changed you mail-address since you first subscribed.
In this case drop me a line and I’ll try to help.
The web-site is at http://www.sn.no/home/nick/jaguar.html
Among a dazzling array of informative information, this
is where the mailing-list archives are available. Get
them, read them.
If you have material you think might be nice for the
web-site, mail me.
This is another nag for you, Lawrence
Regarding the subject: Yes, I just got my hands on a
couple of tapes of CarTalk Aural bliss and my
favorite listening when driving to and fro work. Too
bad I haven’t got a source anymore…

Nick

<<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>>
<<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>>

The JagWeb http://www.sn.no/~nick/jaguar.html <<<

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #45

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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 18 April 1996 Volume 02 : Number 046

From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 00:41:38 +0100
Subject: '62 E-Type, Series 1, ots

Hi all,
Restoration is progressing…a few questions.
I’ve been reading/hearing how useless heaters/defrosters
are in an early E-Type. My car has no heater box at all
and I have to decide what to do. My mechanic’s suggestion
is to forget about it (being British, he’s used to the damp!)
I can’t imagine not having defrosters for those rainy, humid
days we get up here (Canada). Is the heater systems from
the various jag. parts suppliers adequate, or is there a better
suggestion?
(a trim person who stopped by the garage suggested that
I simply install a fan-in-a-box where the heater box should
be and blow air in through the defrost ducts.) ??
Also;
This car had carpet over the sills and along the outer side
walls (even on the doors!) I’m doing the doors properly,
but early specs. seem to indicate vinyl on the sills, rear
bulkhead, etc. Any knowledge/suggestions?
I’m not worrying too much about concours condition at
the moment, but am trying to be close to original, not,
however, at the expense of a better defrost system, etc.
Thanks for whatever learned help comes.
I’m enjoying this group a lot and am learning from you
all.
Regards,
Charles Daly
(a car that’s beginning to look like an E-Type)

From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 02:41:42 -0400
Subject: Re: A (sort of) philosophical question

Daniel Bowdoin writes:

Is there anyone among us who is
using an E-type as your sole mode of transportation, day in
and day out, with no alternative vehicle…

I was doing it for the better part of a year in 1994 with my 1967 E Type
coupe. The car never stranded me. I also used a 1967 MGB for nearly two
years in 1985 & 1986. The car occasionally had its problems, but many of
those were of the
easily-fixed-on-the-spot-using-duct-tape-paper-clips-or-WD40 variety. I had
a brake wheel cylinder go out once in the MG, leaving me without brakes, but
the E Type won’t have that sort of problem. I’d worry about old rubber
letting go occasionally (like in the brakes) & minor electrical gremlins, but
you AND the car will be happier for the experience and problems will become
LESS frequent the longer you use it.

I also had a coworker that drove his Series II 2+2 to work almost every day
for 5 years (except when he drove in his Citroen) on a 30 mile commute, and
that car was better in almost every way at the end of the period than it was
at the beginning. Really, the 4.2 E Type is nothing but a simplified,
lightweight, two seat XJ-6. How much can go wrong with a manual
transmission, wind-up windows, no airconditioning and no serious electronics?
The car was complex for its day, but you can actually figure out what stuff
does! On the other hand, the new XJ40 with “bells & whistles” IS pretty
nice.
-Steve A.
67 E Type Coupe
76 XJ6C
& now, 91 XJ40

From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 02:41:46 -0400
Subject: Re: RE:Hazy XJ40 Headlamp lens

Tony Goodall wrote:

why not put the unit, glass up, into a dishwasher, with
dishwasher liquid. The chemicals are strong, but no abrasion!!

Jan Wikstoem replied:

You’re darn tootin’ the chemicals are strong; what we have here is sodium
hydroxide in a strong enough solution to peel your skin off; the reflector
coating will disappear…

Hmmm, an idea just occurred to me. Since I just got a headlight broken on my
1991 XJ40 in a minor accident, why don’t we try some experimentation? Since
the headlight is unsalvageable anyway (the reflector got cracked, among other
things), I’ll see if I can’t get it back from the bodyshop & I can try a
number of different cleaning solutions on various areas of the reflector &
I’d be willing to dissect it afterwards. Heck, I could even simulate a good
headlight & try sloshing junk around inside! I don’t think my wife will be
enthusiastic about cooking the thing in the oven or dishwasher, though. If
there are others out there with trashed headlights, we could try quite a
number of combinations if we work together in the interests of Jaguar
science. Suggestions?
-Steve A.
PS: I’ll probably get the light back about the middle of next week & we
probably ought to think the “experiments” through as I’ve only got one light
to work with.

From: Peter Rebbechi <"REBBECHI PETER"@a1.meoc02.sno.mts.dec.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 06:38:00 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: XK8 Prices

$75k sounds real good to us Australians, as they are quoting $210,000
to $230,000 for the XK8 here!
The depressing thing is that salaries are comparable!

From: Peter Rebbechi <"REBBECHI PETER"@a1.meoc02.sno.mts.dec.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 06:37:00 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: XJ40 rear Ends

Not sure what you mean by extended mileage. My '88 has 220,000 km;s
without any noise from the rear end. Touch wood, and I hope that I
have not woken the gremlins by saying this.

From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 09:21:38 +0200
Subject: Re: A (sort of) philosophical question

SteveAv@aol.com wrote:

Really, the 4.2 E Type is nothing but a simplified, lightweight, two
seat XJ-6. How much can go wrong with a manual transmission, wind-up
windows, no airconditioning and no serious electronics?

Not much really I have used my 1970 XJ6 4.2, manual overdrive,
wind-up windows, no air-con etc, as my everyday and only car for
the past two years. Apart from the time I filled 90 litres of bad
fuel (diesel+petrol, gas-stations fault) there hasn’t been much
downtime at all. And the car is much healthier now than when I
bought it. I won’t say I haven’t had to do any work on it, I have,
but mainly small jobs that were sorted in an evening or a weekend.

Nick

Nick Johannessen @ Work email: nick@sn.no http://www.sn.no/home/nick/
Phone: +47-2207 3981 Cell : +47-905 95132 Fax: +47-2207 3444

From: Tommy loner@peterboro.net
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 03:55:45 -0400
Subject: Just Some Ramblin’

Hi!

You guys are my !#%*@ heroes! Jags galore! I’ve been spending a lot of =
time lurking (?) the past couple of days. My wife thinks I’ve lost it. =
She just doesn’t understand.

Anyways, I’m pretty new on the ‘net, and maybe it shows, so please bear =
with me. Hell, maybe this message won’t even get posted, the way I’ve =
been screwin’ everything up on my new IBM APTIVA PENTIUM 133 A40 WITH 2 =
GB HARD DRIVE, 16 MB RAM and 6X CD-ROM!

I am currently owned by a 1971 E Type roadster (4.2 L) and a 1980 XJ6. =
Both were premarital aquisitions. ;>)

So I bought the 1980 XJ6 about ten years ago and haven’t driven it for =
the past six or seven years. About three years ago I promised my wife =
I’d give her some driving lessons in the big blue sedan (cobalt blue, =
although most people couldn’t decide if it was green or blue). =
Unfortunately the car wouldn’t start. I figured at the time it was the =
starter, and I confirmed that last summer and I had it remanufactured. =
My wife was convinced I was holding out on her, but it just wasn’t the =
case. With the driving lessons, that is. :>)

Anyways, I’ve been telling my wife for a several years now, we’ve been =
married four years so I guess I’ve been telling her for four years now, =
that I’m gonna fix them cars up real good. Then she makes some crack =
about how I can sell them after they’re fixed up. Then the conversation =
goes all down hill. :>(

So I figure I’ll start with the XJ6 and try to finish it up by summer’s =
end, but you know the story, a little poke here and a little poke there =
(the car that is) and summer turns to fall and fall turns to an early =
winter (and it still feels like winter up here!).=20

So I’ve never done any mechanical or body work before but I really want =
to learn and accomplish. These are my babies. And the money’s tight. And =
I figure I’ll start with the XJ6 and it’ll be a learning process and =
it’ll help prime me up for the E-Type I plan to start on this summer.=20

And I want to do everything on the cheap, so my friend, who really does =
know cars, sort of, tells me to make my own replacement panels, it’ll be =
cheaper. So I try, and try, and Arghh! They look sort of crappy and I =
spend a lot of time with the plastic. With all the replacement panels =
available in the after market it just ain’t worth the effort. Don’t you =
agree?

So while the car is up on the stands where those reinforced jacking =
points are behind the rear doors, I worked away on the boot floor and =
rear valence and so on. And one day I come into my tent (it’s one of =
those plastic-tarps-on-a-metal-frame-portable-garage contraptions - not =
recommended unless you’re desperate) and I notice the IRS is sitting on =
a jack I left just under the differential. It only dropped about two =
inches onto this jack I had coincidentally but strategically placed =
under the differential, but I was devastated, it could’ve been a =
disaster. Those rubber thingamajigs just let go. Fortunately there was =
no damage. So why don’t they tell you these things in the manual. Can =
the same thing happen up front?=20

Speaking of manuals, what would you recommend for a novice like myself, =
who’s hell bent on doin’ it himself. I’ve got the Haynes manuals for the =
XJ6 and E-Type, and I’ve also got that Robert Bentley (?) manual titled =
the “Complete E-Type” (?). And some generic books on body work and =
painting, put out by the likes of Haynes and Motorbooks, and I’ve got a =
slew of books from England with all those luscious colour photos, and =
restoration guides for the XJ and E-Type put out by the likes of Jaguar =
World and something by Paul Skilleter, and so on and so forth. I’m =
havin’ a hell of a time hiding these from the wife. When she makes a new =
discovery I usually tell her that it’s a book I bought long before I met =
her (the good ol’ days ;>) ), but I’ve noticed some of the books were =
published in the nineties and eventually she’s gonna figure it out.

You know what I’d love to see? A CD-ROM that truly is the COMPLETE =
JAGUAR. All repair manuals, parts lists, wiring diagrams, all models, =
all years, complete history with biographies, etc. Wouldn’t that be =
groovy? Complete with video and sound bites. Ahh, to dream…

I dream, therfore I exist. (Who wrote that?)

Just before I let you go, what I really want to know is this: Can I make =
a living out of my Jaguar hobby? I’m getting a wee bit hungry for =
employment - self employment preferred. Any ideas?

I’ve often thought about buying some junkers for parts for my own =
personal use and whatever, but I know I’m going to have a lot of =
‘splainin’ to do if she finds them. Right now my basement is littered =
with Jag parts and the real estate guy says I gotta pack 'em up.

Any ideas?

Thanks a million.

Tommy.
loner@peterboro.net

From: “Andy Broer” andy_broer@taligent.com
Date: 18 Apr 1996 01:37:42 -0800
Subject: Re: A (sort of) philosophic

Mail*Link(r) SMTP RE>>A (sort of) philosophica

Started this as soon as I saw the mail coming in, but it seems a little dated
now.

John + all,

My personal feelings about why so many cars fail to achieve favorable status
in the US of A is due to good old American sloth!

This is aimed squarely at the type of folks who believe Japanese cars are a
god send of high quality workmanship, because they are too lazy to be vigilant
with their own valuable property.(Although I do have to thank the Japanese for
raising the quality bar)

I am ashamed to see my friends totally destroy a wonderful piece of automotive
art. They treat automobiles just the same way as disposable diapers. And my
god if it doesn’t have a cup holder in it!!! What the heck do they want a car
or a picnic table!?!

My wife and I had two corollas in the past, and both cost more to run than our
“expensive” BMW. Totally due to where the service was being done. The Toyota
shop was run by a guy with no concern for quality work or customer
satisfaction. The BMW shop was OTOH very concerned.

Now I have the XJS in getting worked over by a shop many of you recommended. I
am hoping for good things from them.

The prices of cars might affect how people treat their cars here soon enough.
Unfortunately only the ones who think about it will notice, that won’t be
many of us (in the USA). Why should they bother? Too much trouble. They’ll
just buy whatever JD Powers recommends. (sad but true)

For me, I want something really zesty anyway, let the masses (“them asses” I
like that;-) buy generic boxes. Give me something with STYLE! Panache! Verve!

Besides I love saying this phrase to someone in conversation, “Well I had to
drive the __________, because the ___________ is in the shop and my wife has
the __________” (Where I can insert almost any of our three vehicles) Then I
watch the wheels go 'round in their head for a while. (I should point out that
I am a young looking 30, that helps in the scenario)

Andy “Let them eat twinkies” Broer

75 Ferrari Dino 308GT4
83 Jaguar XJS HE
94 Ducati 900SSCR

From: “David Hallam” hallam@rsc.anu.edu.au
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 18:57:40 +0000
Subject: Re: Old Cars vs. Safety and the Environment

Driving a well maintained OLD car is environmentally a sensible thing to do.
Why? Well if we assume a 8 year life (Normal for cars in the US or Europe) then
60% of its total energy consumption was in its making. Hence if you can keep a
car on the road for longer it will have less of an energy debt when it is
finally fed back into the smelter. In order for a car to overcome the energy
dept the production and economy of cars has to increase dramatically.
I feel keeping them longer is much more fun and sensible. But it must be as a
daily car.
My daily car is a bicycle or a 25 year old car. I cannot wait to make it a 50
year old Daimler.
/dlh.
*** Without Treatment Development our past can only rot!****
David Hallam Senior Scientist, Materials Conservation
Queensland Museum, PO Box 3300 South Brisbane Qld. 4101 Australia.
************************* Standard Disclaimer;*************************
D.Hallam@mailbox.uq.edu.auhttp://www.uq.edu.au/~qmdhalla/**
David.Hallam@anu.edu.au**

From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@compuserve.com
Date: 18 Apr 96 09:02:59 EDT
Subject: Copy of: XKs

---------- Forwarded Message ----------

From: John Elmgreen, 100353,1733
TO: Bill Borden, INTERNET:wborden@dsg250.nad.ford.com
James Canedy, internet:jamesc@oasis.novia.net
Dick Cavicke, internet:dikavik@aol.com
John Elmgreen, 100353,1733
Jamie Fiffles, INTERNET:REMANKING@aol.com
Zafar Idham, INTERNET:scikom@ibm.net
Jeff, internet:saraanni@northcoast.com
Simon Johnson, internet:johnsosi@cla.orst.edu
Roger Learmonth, 100722,1033
Dennis Murphy, internet:elgsweep@aol.com
Tony Parkinson, internet:vicarage@ix.netcom.com
jose del pino, INTERNET:jjdelpi@ibm.net
Rob Reilly, internet:reilly@admail.fnal.gov
Charles Sell, internet:sellc@usa.red-cross.org
John W Shuck, internet:jqjf14a@prodigy.com
Don Sime, 103234,320
Dick White, INTERNET:white@msgate.ColumbiaSC.ATTGIS.COM
Zach Zalatel, internet:z@iamug.org
DATE: 17-4-96 11:33 PM

RE: Copy of: XKs

Copy to Bruce Dunow, XK120 OTS owner (672947) of Penryn, CA:  Bruce - I

picked up your email address from the WWW Jag Lovers site. We have a small
group of XK owners who sporadically exchange email messages - copy everyone else
on any query or reply is the simple idea. Would you like to be added to my
list? No obligation! Comment on anything you like, and tell us about your car
if you wish.

Miscellaneous responses to recent messages.
Dennis Murphy: thanks for the numbers for Doc Scadron. I may try a
general enquiry by fax and see what the result is.
Dick Cavicke: thanks for the info re the 120 heel pads. I believe that
all early cars had leather in 2 pieces as you described. Another car I have
observed with original carpets 660828 had each pad about 9" x 12 3/4" - just
slightly larger than yours. The stitching for the edge of the pad was 27
stitches per 5 inches - closer than the stitching you measured for the diagonals
(which I did not count, maybe they were the same). Hardura pads came later, e.g
on a DHC I have seen.
Rob Reilly: Rob, where are you? Did you get the German articles I sent
a few weeks ago, by Urs Schmidt?
Dick Cavicke: re concours judging etc: I was told that we had adopted
the American system here now, but I did not know how closely. I agree totally
with your comments re the points problems and discrepancies. There were 3 of us
judging and I was not the guy filling in the points, but more than once we came
across the sort of problem you have identified. For example, we had a top car
(140 DHC) with a (very wrong) black headlining. But there was no way that he
was going to lose the same points as if he had turned up with none at all! What
about repro grilles and badges? They are wrong (in that they are never entirely
accurate repros) but there has to be some judgement exercised as to how near a
miss they are, and points deducted according to that judgement.
Jamie Fiffles: Jamie asked some time ago re the tube/hose for the tyre
pump - where does it go? I now have the answer: in the tool roll, not screwed
into the pump at all. By the way, I have recently found that I have quite a few
of my original 120 tools! I had pretty much ignored them until late, leaving
them in the cellar, but the recent discussions inspired me to get them out. I
have about a dozen including a jack stamped 10/50 and a couple of ratchets
(remember the recent discussions about King Dicks and folding jack bits?) plus
miscellaneous other stuff. Thanks Dick for the note re the strap in the boot
for the roll. What are the dimensions of the strap?
Trim screws: I am now thinking that there are 2 types of cup washers
used on XK trim under the same part number. For example, on the door casings,
the XK120 usually has the minimal type cup washers, with no real lip (barely
bigger than the screw head). This is shown as BD 532/1 in the parts book. But
the XK150 (mine) has the same part number for the cup washers on the bootlid
trim, and they are the more conventional full lip type cup washer. Can anyone
else help here? Was it only the 150s that had the larger type?
Door trims: there was some discussion a while ago re early 120 OTSs
having leather door casings and later ones having Rexine (leathercloth, vinyl
type). Can anyone tell me (who has not already) what their cars had for the
door trim material?
Jose del Pino: it must be great to have the 120 DHC with you. We look
forward to hearing the story of its restoration as it happens. Good luck with
the deadline! Hope you have plenty of spare time.
Re rear licence plate rubber piping: I am still somewhat baffled here.
Could someone give me the dimensions of the piping they have, e.g. diameter of
the round bit (if that is what there is) and the length of the tag bit that goes
under the holder. How is it different from the rear guard piping? Someone said
the round bit was greater in diameter.
Dennis Murphy: the cam covers changed to studs at the front after W4690.
So yours W 4271-8 is before this and therefore “studless”.
Regards, John Elmgreen

From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@compuserve.com
Date: 18 Apr 96 09:04:14 EDT
Subject: Copy of: XK120

---------- Forwarded Message ----------

From: John Elmgreen, 100353,1733
TO: James Canedy, internet:jamesc@oasis.novia.net
Dick Cavicke, internet:dikavik@aol.com
John Elmgreen, 100353,1733
Jamie Fiffles, INTERNET:REMANKING@aol.com
Zafar Idham, INTERNET:scikom@ibm.net
Jeff, internet:saraanni@northcoast.com
Simon Johnson, internet:johnsosi@cla.orst.edu
Roger Learmonth, 100722,1033
Dennis Murphy, internet:elgparts@xnet.com
Tony Parkinson, internet:vicarage@ix.netcom.com
jose del pino, INTERNET:jjdelpi@ibm.net
Rob Reilly, internet:reilly@admail.fnal.gov
Charles Sell, internet:sellc@usa.red-cross.org
John W Shuck, internet:jqjf14a@prodigy.com
Don Sime, 103234,320
Dick White, INTERNET:white@msgate.ColumbiaSC.ATTGIS.COM
Zach Zalatel, internet:z@iamug.org
DATE: 18-4-96 11:00 PM

RE: Copy of: XK120

Dennis Murphy:  re the bridge across the studless cam covers:  Bruce

Carnachan’s notes mention this sort of thing as an authorised factory approved
type mod. There is a version of it at page 36 of Porter (apparently not exactly
the same). The glass brake fluid reservoirs were standard for most I think.
The metal type were used for the later tandem type master cylinders. I have also
seen reference to a metal type similar in shape to the glass, which we guess
might have been a replacement part. Any comments?
Jim Canedy asked re the casting / stamped marks on the block, apart from
the part nos. I have not looked yet, but I have no info that would enable me to
analyse what these other marks mean. I have a few photos and notes, but you have
what seems to be a rare or experimental part, and I now of no codes etc for
this. You might try writing to the factory in Coventry. Pity that Lofty
England is no longer with us - he may have been able to help.
I also enjoy hearing about the racing mods altho most of us cannot use
them. Wish I had the time / money etc to go racing in the XK!
Rob Reilly: great to hear from you! I have not received your recent
messages, as you guessed. Last I got was I think 1 March. I started to do a
small dictionary on the German articles, I will email it to you if I get a bit
further with it. There are a few very XK terms that are not too hard to
identify (e.g. rexine, enamel paint etc).
Rear licence plate holders: I am still puzzled here. Any responses re
the profile of the rubber piping and the comparison with the rear guards piping?
Felt for the inner, lower guards? Rob mentioned felt listed in the parts
book for FHC and DHC. Anyone got an opinion re the OTS?
Exhaust studs: my manifolds have I think always been reenamelled with
the studs in, but they do not get enamel on them where the nuts go, so they have
been OK.
Inner guard felts / foam rubber seals: the area I was referring to would
be at the side of item 8 on Plate F of the DHC book, the rounded edge of that
sealing panel.
Bonnet underside: anyone else got black here instead of body colour,
apparently original?
Rob, thanks for all your detailed comments, all have been noted for
future reference.
Regards, John Elmgreen

From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 09:29:28 -0400
Subject: XK8 Niches

The reason there are fewer and fewer sports cars these days is because
of the weaking demand, partly due to the popularity of sports-utilities.
I’d say the Nissan 300ZX and Toyota Supra are practical, well-made
sports cars (although I don’t like them), yet there’s not enough market
for them these days. The same goes for the Acura NSX. I find it alarming
that the XK8 is going into the same arena the Japanese are exiting out of,
and selling at ever-higher prices.

IMHO, bullshit. The demand is as strong as ever, perhaps more so. There is
absolutely NO supply. The Nissan Z and Acura NSX are attempts at exotics,
not sports cars. The Supra is an ugly hog. The Corvette, as any sports car
buff will tell you, is not a sports car. Neither is the Viper. The only
cars available in this country today that even come close to the idea of a
sports car are the Mazda Miata and RX-7 and the Honda del Sol; the RX-7 is
expensive and the other two are ugly, and you’ve gotta be under 5’5" to fit
in any of them, limiting the customer base severely.

Will the XK8 fill this underpopulated niche? Not with an automatic
transmission, it won’t! You gotta wonder just what niche they hope to fill!

  --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                   |  some rules must be broken.
                   |          -- Palm's Postulate

From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 09:29:24 -0400
Subject: Re: Old Cars vs. Safety and the Environment

Just because one country (or state in my case) decides to “toughen up” the
pollution laws doesn’t do “anything” globally for the environment… It
should be all or nothing…

Actually, I’m not sure I agree. Many forms of pollution are actually local
problems; reducing emissions of cars throughout the world will do nothing
for the smog in LA. Using LA as a specific example, that valley should
definitely have much stricter requirements than the rest of the world, due
to specific atmospheric problems they have. Of course, there are too many
influential people there who drive fancy cars, so CA must make it’s
regulations statewide in order to garner a majority of tree-hugging voters
to make restrictions stick.

Based on events I’ve personally experienced, I’ll put the JAG Saloons Mark X
and newer up against any Detroit Iron. My brother had a guy rear-end him in
a Ford sedan. The Ford was totaled, and the Jag suffered a broken tail
light and a small scratch in the bumper. My grandad hit a guy who stopped
at the top of a merging on-ramp to the freeway. Smashed in the guys trunk
and bumper. His Mark X got a little dent in the top of the grill, and one
of the overriders on his bumper.

You clearly have no idea what “safety” means. It has to do with protecting
the OCCUPANTS, not the bodywork. To limit the G-forces imposed on the
occupants, modern cars are designed to deliberately crumble. Take those
easily-crunched Detroit products into a head-on collision with each car at
30 mph at impact, and your chances are pretty good. Take your Mark X into
the same crash, and it may come away less bent – but you will be dead.

Our Mark X’s, both '66 have 4-wheel disc
brakes, and corner as well as or better than most sport cars.

This is probably true, but the Jaguar is an exception here. Most '66 cars
didn’t turn or stop worth a shit. I owned a '66 Mustang Fastback myself,
one of the worst pieces of crap I have ever driven, handling characteristics
of a rolling sewer cover – AFTER I added the anti-sway bar! Before, it was
positively unsafe to drive. Four-wheel drums, had to get a Shelby to get
disk brakes.

As far as
smog goes, when properly “tuned” they don’t put out very much pollution.

I realize that many may have the impression that emissions are simply a
matter of tune, but they’re not. The current US EPA limits on emissions
stand at 4% of the AVERAGE emissions of pre-smog brand new cars. You can
tune your pre-smog car all you want, you won’t pass current emissions
requirements.

I
could always add a cat to the exhaust system.

You could, but it probably wouldn’t work long unless you revise several
other parts in the engine compartment, or just pitch the carbs and install EFI.

There is a guy in Reno who developed a new type of fuel which really sounds
promising. It’s made out of Naptha and H20 (water for you non-chemical
types).

I’m no chemist, but I always wonder why all these miracle products always
include water. Water has no energy available for combustion.

Regardless of the pros and cons of this particular proposal, it would
probably be possible for almost all classic car owners to easily meet
current emissions requirements by converting their cars to run on propane.
This wouldn’t cost much, would leave the car mostly original, and provides
superb octane while it’s at it. Should this be considered a possibility for
a tactic to avoid restrictions on classic cars?

  --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                   |  some rules must be broken.
                   |          -- Palm's Postulate

From: RWOODLIN@garfield.foods.indiana.edu
Date: 18 Apr 96 08:33:45 EDT
Subject: ban on old cars

In response to Kirby’s older car piece…

Why not require all cars to be maintained to at a minimum the original
design specs? This should keep the clunkers off the road and encourage
proper maintenance which would help the environmental situation. With
this requirement only those willing to maintain an older vehicle - no
small task- would have them on the road.

Robert Woodling
'84 XJ-S

From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 10:04:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Old Cars vs. Safety and the Environment

Driving a well maintained OLD car is environmentally a sensible thing to do.
Why? Well if we assume a 8 year life (Normal for cars in the US or Europe)
then
60% of its total energy consumption was in its making. Hence if you can keep a
car on the road for longer it will have less of an energy debt when it is
finally fed back into the smelter.

This makes entirely too much sense, and I can prove it.

Currently (yes, that’s a pun!) there are regulations afoot to require a
certain percentage of cars sold in the US in the future to be “zero
emission” cars. This means electric cars.

Now, we’ll forget for a minute that most batteries are not zero emission
items, and in fact emit gasses during operation. And we’ll forget for a
minute that batteries are not a SOURCE of energy but merely a means of
storing it, and therefore the energy used involves operating an electrical
generating plant somewhere, so all we have accomplished is moving the source
of emissions from the tailpipe to the smokestack.

Instead of thinking about these pesky details, if we merely include the
manufacturing and disposal problems into the equation, we quickly realize
that the electric car is perhaps the worst of all possible polluters! The
batteries in these things are a disaster from any environmental viewpoint
you wanna take. But did that fact dissuade our leaders from foisting
requirements for such cars upon us?

One thing is for sure: if we wish to do battle with those who would regulate
us, the use of logic and wisdom is not to be expected to have much effect.

  --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                   |  some rules must be broken.
                   |          -- Palm's Postulate

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #46

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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 18 April 1996 Volume 02 : Number 047

From: “Himes,John W.” jwh@dw.att.com
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 96 07:38:00 PDT
Subject: Horse-power

I don’t know. How much horse-power has a US XJ-S and a saloon with 11.5:1
compression ?

Matthias

If I remember correctly from my sales brochure for the 88 model year, the
XJ-S V12 was rated at 262 bhp with a top speed of 140mph. I can double
check that tonight after I get home.

John Himes
88 XJ-S 93K miles

From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 07:49:42 -0700
Subject: Re: XJS Wheels on SIII

You wrote:

I spotted a black 84 VDP with these rims and it has become
irresisitable to me.

Anybody know where I can get (five) five-spoke XJ-S (circa
mid-80s)wheels for a reasonable price?

I get the wheels (4) inthe UK and they cost me L300 to buy and L100 to
restore and L100 to send on to me in the States. And I put them on our
customers cars for $750 …
Due their rarity ( to us anyway ) we can not sell them outright but I
did hear that Terry’s in Sarasota has some …

kind regards
tony

VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web

From: lupienj@wal.hp.com (John Lupien)
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 96 11:58:43 EDT
Subject: Nice XJ6 for sale

For a friend:

1982 Jaguar XJ6, 60,000 miles
good body, black paint
automatic
Some leaks: oil, steering fluid, coolant, brake fluid.
No electrical problems.

Please contact me if interested (lupienj@wal.hp.com).
The car is in Massachusetts. Looking for reasonable offers.

John R. Lupien
lupienj@wal.hp.com

From: kboetzer@auspex.com (Ken Boetzer)
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 09:17:02 -0700
Subject: Re: Old Cars vs. Safety and the Environment

Just because one country (or state in my case) decides to “toughen up” the
pollution laws doesn’t do “anything” globally for the environment… It
should be all or nothing…

Actually, I’m not sure I agree. Many forms of pollution are actually local
problems; reducing emissions of cars throughout the world will do nothing
for the smog in LA. Using LA as a specific example, that valley should
definitely have much stricter requirements than the rest of the world, due
to specific atmospheric problems they have. Of course, there are too many
influential people there who drive fancy cars, so CA must make it’s
regulations statewide in order to garner a majority of tree-hugging voters
to make restrictions stick.

Kirbert is right on here. If you visited L.A. in the 60’s from a place with
clean air you would understand. One could taste the air, and it wasn’t good!

Based on events I’ve personally experienced, I’ll put the JAG Saloons Mark X
and newer up against any Detroit Iron. My brother had a guy rear-end him in
a Ford sedan. The Ford was totaled, and the Jag suffered a broken tail
light and a small scratch in the bumper. My grandad hit a guy who stopped
at the top of a merging on-ramp to the freeway. Smashed in the guys trunk
and bumper. His Mark X got a little dent in the top of the grill, and one
of the overriders on his bumper.

You clearly have no idea what “safety” means. It has to do with protecting
the OCCUPANTS, not the bodywork. To limit the G-forces imposed on the
occupants, modern cars are designed to deliberately crumble. Take those
easily-crunched Detroit products into a head-on collision with each car at
30 mph at impact, and your chances are pretty good. Take your Mark X into
the same crash, and it may come away less bent – but you will be dead.

Another statement based on understanding the whole picture. 50s cars with their
leathal weapons sticking out of the instrument panels and hard steel dashbords
would damn well survive and accident. Then they would be sold to someone else
at the estate auction of the deceased occupants.

Our Mark X’s, both '66 have 4-wheel disc
brakes, and corner as well as or better than most sport cars.

This is probably true, but the Jaguar is an exception here. Most '66 cars
didn’t turn or stop worth a shit. I owned a '66 Mustang Fastback myself,
one of the worst pieces of crap I have ever driven, handling characteristics
of a rolling sewer cover – AFTER I added the anti-sway bar! Before, it was
positively unsafe to drive. Four-wheel drums, had to get a Shelby to get
disk brakes.

Thanks again!

As far as
smog goes, when properly “tuned” they don’t put out very much pollution.

I realize that many may have the impression that emissions are simply a
matter of tune, but they’re not. The current US EPA limits on emissions
stand at 4% of the AVERAGE emissions of pre-smog brand new cars. You can
tune your pre-smog car all you want, you won’t pass current emissions
requirements.

I
could always add a cat to the exhaust system.

You could, but it probably wouldn’t work long unless you revise several
other parts in the engine compartment, or just pitch the carbs and install EFI.

You got it here again. The fantasy that a well tuned old car will meet modern
emissions is just that. The fuel and ignition control required to do so is
nonexistant, and no amount of wishing will make it so.

There is a guy in Reno who developed a new type of fuel which really sounds
promising. It’s made out of Naptha and H20 (water for you non-chemical
types).

I’m no chemist, but I always wonder why all these miracle products always
include water. Water has no energy available for combustion.

I too hear these urban legends of 100+ mpg carbs, little twirlly thingies, etc.
that are of course always bought by the automakers so we won’t be able to get
them. Most of the time the people talking about them have no idea of the physics,
chemistry, or engineering priciples behind the subject at hand.

Regardless of the pros and cons of this particular proposal, it would
probably be possible for almost all classic car owners to easily meet
current emissions requirements by converting their cars to run on propane.
This wouldn’t cost much, would leave the car mostly original, and provides
superb octane while it’s at it. Should this be considered a possibility for
a tactic to avoid restrictions on classic cars?
  --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                   |  some rules must be broken.
                   |          -- Palm's Postulate

With regards to our classics, we must be aware of the problems they cause. Which
in most cases are minimal, and help the legislators write laws that deal with the
problems at hand without unnecessarily hindering those that are not a significant
part of the problem.

Thanks Kirbert,

Ken Boetzer

From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 12:37:43 -0400
Subject: Old Cars vs. Safety and Emissions

Why not require all cars to be maintained to at a minimum the original
design specs? This should keep the clunkers off the road and encourage
proper maintenance which would help the environmental situation. With
this requirement only those willing to maintain an older vehicle - no
small task- would have them on the road.

Not a bad idea. However, it has two problems. First, it is essentially the
status quo in many areas; emissions tests are performed to ensure your car
met whatever requirements existed at the time of its manufacture, and
motorists can be cited for not maintaining their vehicles in safe operating
condition. But motorists generally cannot be cited for failing to upgrade
their cars to newer safety or emissions standards. Hence, what exists is
what you propose. And the tree-huggers are still complaining!

Second, and perhaps the reason the tree-huggers are still complaining, is
that there were no emissions requirements before a certain date, so
emissions testing for original design specs is futile – there were no
design specs.

Perhaps the answer is to ESTABLISH some minimum requirements that could
apply to ALL cars, regardless of date of manufacture. It should be fairly
easy to establish a set of limits for emissions that reflect a pre-smog car
in good condition but would flunk any poorly-maintained junker. If you
happen to have a car that, even in good condition, fails this spec, you
might have to add some non-original upgrades, but that might be a rare case,
and in one fell swoop you have required the drivers of junkers to either
rebuild the motor or trade it in!

I, of course, would LOVE to see a requirement that all vehicles pass a
braking test – not just that the brakes work, but that they will stop the
fully-loaded vehicle from 60 mph in x feet. All 18-wheel trucks will have
to exchange their hard-as-a-rock high-mileage tires for something that
actually has some traction. All the early-80’s GM cars will have to install
tires about two sizes larger, since it seemed the trend at the time to put
really tiny tires on medium and full size cars. And many of the really
dangerous cars out there will need to be either upgraded or crushed. And
that means less chance of one of these cars running into ME!

  --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                   |  some rules must be broken.
                   |          -- Palm's Postulate

From: Braman Colton Wing bcw6@cornell.edu
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 12:27:56 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Old Cars vs. Safety and the Environment

in regards to safety, it seems as if there are two schools of thought.
Modern cars are designed to crumple, with the car absorbing the kinetic
energy and protecting the driver. With older cars, the object being hit
absorbs the energy, which is fine until you hit a really solid wall or
something. I realize that with airbags, crumple zones, etc. modern cars
are theoretically safer, but I think that as long as you’re strapped in
securely, a really solid older car can be just as safe. All you have to do
is look at a stock car. They are built with a roll cage
designed to prevent any crumpling at all, and yet drivers routinely hit the
wall at 150+mph and walk away. I think the secret is to have a driver
restraint that keeps you from hitting the windshield, dash, etc. I am also
a member of the Land Rover list, and there are literally hundreds
of stories of Land Rovers hitting everything from moose to semi trucks and
the occupants walking(or even driving) away.
In short, I can see the theory behind crumple zones, but in
practice, it seems as if a rigid bodied car can be just as safe under many
circumstances.

From: “Lauren E. Pratt” pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 96 07:38:39 PDT
Subject: 5 SPEED VS OVERDRIVE FOR E TYPE

Michael Frank wrote:

Has anyone installed a 5 or 6 speed conversion kit in an E-type? How much
does this cost? How hard is it to do? Is the result wort the effort?

A 4 speed manual transmission with overdrive was an option
in the long wheel base (2+2) E type. Could this overdrive
be retrofit ed to the SWB (OTS & FHC). It would require
rework of the transmission tunnel sheet metal and a shorter
drive shaft, maybe with CV joints. As the transmission and
rear end are relative fixed there should not be much movement
of the drive shaft. With a standard US 3.54 rear end the
engine reves are to high for just cruising in the open spaces
here in the western US.

Thanks in advance

Cheers Lauren

65 E type FHC under restoration

Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 4/18/96
Time: 7:38:39 AM

This message was sent by Chameleon

From: traver@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 96 12:39:32 EDT
Subject: E Type Front End Alignment

Where should I take my E type to get the front end alignment checked?
I can’t imagine taking it to one of the $39.95 front end align shops.
Any suggestions, especially in the Westchester Co area in NY ? Todd

From: henning@fp.com (Eric Henning)
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 13:05:46 -0400
Subject: Clunkers, zero-emissions

It seems we are beginning an emotional thread about old cars and that the gov’t
will take them away. Some points to ponder:

I think most of us agree pollution is bad. In some cities, on particularly
bad pollution days you are advised to stay indoors. Think about this, staying
indoors is healthier than going outside.

Most economically-challenged people (p.c. speak for poorer) cannot
afford to replace their old clunker with some new less polluting car. What
happens to these people when “old” cars are outlawed and there are no “old”
cars for these people to drive.

Zero emission cars are not required to use batteries, just put out zero
emissions. Present practical technology dictates that battries be used.
Forcing zero emission cars has already progressed technology into working
on better batteries (recyclable), and if a renewable power source can be
developed in
practical quantities (wind, solar, thermal, etc…) instead of
using non-renewable power sources (coal, gas, nuclear), we’re that much
closer to true zero emissions.

Most states offer antique and classic license plates. Perhaps this method
can be used for enthusiasts cars. Clunkers could then be seperated from
collectors. I don’t think the gov’t is targeting ours toys specifically.

If safety is really an issue than motorcycles will have to go . I as far as
I know, the only new safety feature built into motorcycles since I started
riding is the headlight doesn’t have an off switch anymore, light stays on as
long as the bike is running. Never seen a motorcycle come out on top unless
it involved a small farm animal.

The gov’t. I lived in Massachusetts when the state mandated seatbelt wearing.
There was such an outcry, this law was repealed the next year. See, we still
have control. (I always wear a seatbelt (if their there - use’em)
but I didn’t need the gov’t to tell me I had to)

I closing, I test drove a 1986 XJ6 today. No leaper on the hood, deals off.

Eric Henning
henning@fp.com

From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 13:08:46 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: A (sort of) philosophical question

On Wed, 17 Apr 1996 rpeng@cadev6.intel.com wrote:

Is there anyone among us who is
using an E-type as your sole mode of transportation,

To expand on your question, here are my opinions as to which
Jag models are suitable for daily transport:

XJ40 Yes
XJS Only if late model
XJ6 series III Tes
XJ6 series II no
XJ6 series I Maybe, if mostly rebuilt
XJ12 series I-III no
XKE forget it

I was going to stay out of this one, but, Roger, surely thou speakest in
jest!!! My 1979 XJ4.2, Series II performs JUST FINE in regular
service, thank you, and I see no reason why another well-cared-for
example of the breed wouldn’t do equally well. Not only that, most of
Maggie’s miles are run around town, which is not the easiest service.
She does fine on the road, too. Just last week, Bill Trimble and I made
a round trip to the Atlanta airport (about 200 miles) and she behaved
every bit like the lady she is…delightfully smooth, quiet, and
responsive at around 75 MPH. Yes, she was rebuilt a few years back, and
I think she’s better than ever. At some point, every machine needs that
to stay in service. Why would I want to trade her for the no-headroom,
cramped confines of an XJ40…just because it’s new?

Of course, if one wishes to drive any older–pardon me, experienced–
motorcar regularly, all of the recent comments made about regular,
preventative maintenance must be observed, but, then again, that
dictum holds if your car has only 100 miles on the clock.

As for the E, go for it! Just do what it takes to keep ANY machine in good
shape.

Larry Lee

From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 96 11:41:17 PDT
Subject: Re: A (sort of) philosophical question

| I was going to stay out of this one, but, Roger, surely thou speakest in
| jest!!! My 1979 XJ4.2, Series II performs JUST FINE in regular
| service, thank you, and I see no reason why another well-cared-for
| example of the breed wouldn’t do equally well.

Larry,

I was talking in the general sense, for the average Jag lover who may
not be as mechanically adept as you. Sure, if you rebuild any car carefully
you can make it fairly reliable, but in my opinion, even a relatively good
condition E-type or series II XJ6/12 require too much tinkering to drive
everyday. They’re “best” used as a second car.

Why would I want to trade her for the no-headroom,
cramped confines of an XJ40…just because it’s new?

No arguments from me regarding the cramped confines of the XJ40, but
I can give you some other reasons why a newer Jag (whether series III
XJ6 or XJ40) might be a better alternative for daily commute. One
reason is economics. Late model Jags can be picked up fairly cheaply
(at least in the U.S.). The amount of money you spend to restore an
older model can easily exceed that of an off-the-lot late model,
and you’re unlikely to recoup any of that cost. Also, a late model
with fuel-injection and better quality control will typically
give you better reliability (and due to the fact that the cars are
newer to start with). In any case, my comments above only apply towards
“daily commute”. I love the old Jags as much as anyone, especially
the series II XJ.

Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD

From: Braman Colton Wing bcw6@cornell.edu
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 12:27:56 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Old Cars vs. Safety and the Environment

Braman brings up an interesting point of mis-information;

<absorbs the energy, which is fine until you hit a really solid wall or
<something. I realize that with airbags, crumple zones, etc. modern cars
<are theoretically safer, but I think that as long as you’re strapped in
<securely, a really solid older car can be just as safe. All you have to do
<is look at a stock car. They are built with a roll cage
<designed to prevent any crumpling at all, and yet drivers routinely hit the
<wall at 150+mph and walk away. I think the secret is to have a driver
restraint that keeps you from hitting the windshield, dash, etc. I am also

We just had this discussion on another net I belong to. The stock car with
roll cage is built to disintegrate upon impact. The steering/suspension
shears away at a certain point absorbing some of the impact; then the fenders
rip off, absorbing more impact, the crumple zones absorb a lot, and the engine/
tranny pull out in a certain direction to release more energy. The roll
cage ends up bouncing along, rigid, hoping to keep the person inside it
from disintegrating. The whole car, front or rear will shorten up about
four feet very quickly.

LLoyd -that’s over simplified, but you get the idea-

From: kboetzer@auspex.com (Ken Boetzer)
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 13:00:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Old Cars vs. Safety and the Environment

SNIP, from bcw6@cornell.edu

In short, I can see the theory behind crumple zones, but in
practice, it seems as if a rigid bodied car can be just as safe under many
circumstances.

True, but that was almost never a design consideration until the late 60s.
The total package was not in general a consideration. Style, as in appearence,
was the overwhelming driving factor of the day. Design in the more global
sense was not brought to bear until the late 70s, at least in the USA.
The life cycle of the product is just now being given more serious consideration.
VW has made disassembly in a given amount of time a design consideration. This
will enhance the ability to recycle the car much more efficiently. This
approach to design is, IMHO, (as a design engineer), really the correct way to
look at the product. I often find it true that the big picture approach leads to
a product that is superior in all ways to the more singular goal oriented design
(read, often quick and dirty) approach. Ease of disassembly often shows easier
methods of assembly, etc. With regards to crumple zones, the car can be just as
“safe” but other things will be sacrificed. We live in a world of trade-offs.

Good Day,

Ken Boetzer

From: jackb@epix.net (Jack Bednarski)
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 16:01:14 -0400
Subject: Driving an E Type

It’s a dream of a lifetime. I drove a 71 XKE V12 from 1981 to 1985
everyday. Those were the best years of my life. I couldn’t pass up the
deal on this car and my wife said I needed a car for “everyday”. I loved
going to work. We even took the car on vacation on year. Our 2 small
children fit perfectly in the back of the 2+2. Not much room for luggage,
we didn’t go far or stay to long.

Driving the car everyday is the best thing for it. It didn’t leak, it
didn’t smell and it stayed in tune longer. As a matter of fact I decided to
buy a XJS V12 so that I can recapture that memorable time in my life.

Jack Bednarski
71 XKE V12
90 XJ6 VDP

From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 16:21:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Old Cars vs. Safety and the Environment

in regards to safety, it seems as if there are two schools of thought.
Modern cars are designed to crumple, with the car absorbing the kinetic
energy and protecting the driver. With older cars, the object being hit
absorbs the energy, which is fine until you hit a really solid wall or
something.

Actually, the theory in older cars is that the OCCUPANTS absorb the energy.

Counting on the object being hit absorbing the energy is only valid in
tanks. With the automobile vs. other automobiles, trees, phone poles,
buildings, fire hydrants, you name it, the theory won’t hold water – and,
in fact, never was the theory at the time these cars were built. The theory
was, let’s make the car strong and durable to keep the customer happy; if
they crash and die, well, there’s nothing we can do about that.

I realize that with airbags, crumple zones, etc. modern cars
are theoretically safer, but I think that as long as you’re strapped in
securely, a really solid older car can be just as safe.

Incorrect. You clearly have the impression that the only way you can die in
a car accident is to be physically mangled or impaled by foreign objects.
In fact, a really good way to get killed is by being subjected to excessive
G forces – possibly by your safety belt! The collapse of the front and
rear end of a car is essential to spread the deceleration over a couple feet
of travel, thereby minimizing G forces.

There is, however, a shortcoming to the theory, one that our illustrious
leaders fail to address – as usual. The regulations require a car to
protect a driver in the proverbial 30 mph crash with a brick wall, which is
similar energy-wise to a head-on between two similar cars travelling 30 mph.
There is validity in this, since our speed limits are low in the US and most
people can slow somewhat prior to a collision, so a relatively high
percentage of accidents do, in fact, happen at 30 mph or less.

However, the engineers are now very practiced at this design concept, and
are fully capable of designing the “crumple zones” for EXACTLY 30 mph, and
no faster. If the accident actually happens at 60 mph – four times the
energy – the nose will absorb 1/4 of the energy, and the other 3/4 will be
used to squash the occupants like bugs. In the case of such an accident,
the older cars may in fact be just as good or better at protecting the
occupants, although the chances of survival are slim either way.

All you have to do
is look at a stock car. They are built with a roll cage
designed to prevent any crumpling at all, and yet drivers routinely hit the
wall at 150+mph and walk away.

Everything in this statement is incorrect. First off, stock cars are in
fact built with crumple zones; in fact, it may be claimed that they invented
them. Everything forward and rearward of the driver’s compartment is
intended to crunch or disintegrate to absorb energy; the roll cage keeps
ONLY the driver’s compartment intact.

Second, stock cars (and other oval track racers) routinely hit the wall, but
always a glancing blow. Hence, it is not necessary to absorb the full
energy of the motion of the car within the length of a crumple zone (one or
two feet) but rather over several hundred yards as the car slides to a stop.
Despite the fuzz’s claim that speed kills, speed doesn’t hurt anything, it’s
the sudden stop that’ll get ya – and a sudden stop on an oval track is a
truly rare incident indeed.

  --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                   |  some rules must be broken.
                   |          -- Palm's Postulate

From: Peter Hamel jo79@dial.pipex.com
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 96 17:45:55 GMT
Subject: Re: Alloy refinishing

Martin,

The place I used is called Pristine, they are in South Milton Keynes and their
phone number is 01908 282628. They have various agents around the country who
will send them off for you so you don’t need to go there.
Good luck, Regards,

Pete

Peter,

I came across your mail in the jag-lovers digest and thought I’d drop
you a line. I’m not in need (yet !!) of re-lacquering on the jag but my
Honda Prelude needs it. I can’t seem to get anybody to not butcher them
when I’m having tyres changes, punctures repaired etc.

Where do you recommend? I’m in Rochdale, north of Manchester.

How thick is the lacquer they apply? The alloys on the jag seem to have
a much thicker coat than on the Honda. Perhaps the Jags have already
been re-finished.

Cheers

Martin

Martin Grossman 1990 Daimler 4.0
GEC Plessey Semiconductors
Oldham
Lancashire
UK

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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 19 April 1996 Volume 02 : Number 048

From: Ed Rubacha erubacha@wesleyan.edu
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 17:11:43 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: XK120 details

Sorry for the belated response to the traffic about some details of 120
originality. Regarding underbonnet paint: my 1953 FHC was painted the
same color as the bodywork. Carpet heel pads, original to the car, are of
hardura with a binding around the edge. The corners are rounded and all
are not 90 degree angles. Approximate dimensions: 8" x 13" or 13 3/4"…
the “slant” favors the transmission side, apparently for the sake of ap-
pearance. There is no “X” stitching across the heel pads. The rubber
welting surrounding the rear license plate panel is different from the
welting originally used between the rear fenders and body…sorry that I
don’t have dimensions handy. Cheers, Ed

From: Patrick Krejcik pkr@SLAC.Stanford.EDU
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 14:32:26 -0700
Subject: Re: 5 SPEED VS OVERDRIVE FOR E TYPE

Lauren E. Pratt wrote:

A 4 speed manual transmission with overdrive was an option
in the long wheel base (2+2) E type. Could this overdrive
be retrofit ed to the SWB (OTS & FHC). It would require
rework of the transmission tunnel sheet metal and a shorter
drive shaft, maybe with CV joints. As the transmission and
rear end are relative fixed there should not be much movement
of the drive shaft. With a standard US 3.54 rear end the
engine reves are to high for just cruising in the open spaces
here in the western US.

Lauren,
this is the first I have heard mention of an overdrive option for an
E-Type of any type. This subject has come up several times in the
history of this list, with most owners of US spec. cars bemoaning the
same points as you do.
So where did you here that this was ever an option? Was it a Laycock
overdrive as used in other Jaguar models? I often wondered how much
transmission tunnel sheet metal work would be involved to adapt the SWB
models.
Cheers, Patrick.

From: Patrick Krejcik pkr@SLAC.Stanford.EDU
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 14:42:51 -0700
Subject: Re: '62 E-Type, Series 1, ots

charles daly wrote:

Hi all,
Restoration is progressing…a few questions.
I’ve been reading/hearing how useless heaters/defrosters
are in an early E-Type. My car has no heater box at all
and I have to decide what to do. My mechanic’s suggestion
is to forget about it (being British, he’s used to the damp!)
I can’t imagine not having defrosters for those rainy, humid
days we get up here (Canada). Is the heater systems from
the various jag. parts suppliers adequate, or is there a better
suggestion?

Charles,
my heater is cetainly adequate. The demister system is marginal, though
better than other Brit cars of that vintage I think. If the interior is
dry so that the humidity is low, then the demister can just keep up.
Usually the cockpit of the E-Type is too warm and the scuttle vents are
useless for cool air in the heat of summer, but then again you have an
OTS!
I would also replace the original heater box because it is such a
charateristic sight under the E-Type bonnet, with its intake matching up
to the ducts in the bonnet.
Cheers, Patrick.
'65 Series I 4.2 E-Type FHC

From: viadata@interramp.com (David Hurlston)
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 15:46:23 -0500
Subject: Old cars

One thing I don’t understand is why old cars seem to be so much more
unreliable in the USA than they are here. Is it the gas, the
mechanics, the DPO’s the traffic, the roads the emission equipment ?

I have a “friend” who buys a new car every two years, and brags that he
never changes the oil, just sells the car off.

Now, IMHO, that’s right up there with wife-beating and cruelty to animals.

From: lwalden@ebmud.com (Lee Walden)
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 15:32:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Old Cars vs. Safety and the Environment

At 12:27 1996/04/18 -0400, Braman Colton Wing wrote:

I think the secret is to have a driver restraint that keeps you from
hitting the windshield, dash, etc. I am also a member of the Land Rover
list, and there are literally hundreds of stories of Land Rovers hitting
everything from moose to semi trucks and the occupants walking(or even
driving) away.

Last night on NBC’s Dateline, they ran a story on the Highway Insurance Data
Loss Institute. They ran 4x4’s at 40 Mph into a block pier so that the car
hit the pier half way across the hood.

They crashed a Honda Passport, Jeep Grand Cherokee, Ford Explorer, Toyota
4-runner, Land Rover Discovery, and a Chevy Blazer.

The “winner” was the Land Rover as it didn’t fold up as badly as some of the
other vehicles.

In short, I can see the theory behind crumple zones, but in
practice, it seems as if a rigid bodied car can be just as safe under many
circumstances.

All of the test vehicles has air bags, and in at least two of the crashes,
the driver’s head impacted the door frames hard enough to dent the frames.
The head impacted one at the opening edge side of the door, and the other
impact was at the bottom of the window, top rear of the door. The glass
blew out as the door frame crumpled. The Honda “folded” up, and the Blazer
did too.

Dateline’s recommendation was to go for the Toyota or the Land Rover.

From: spe00@eng.amdahl.com (Silas Elash)
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 96 16:16:22 PDT
Subject: Looking at an XJS

Oh boy, here I go again!

I may have an opportunity to purchase an 85 XJS. This
is gonna take some convincing on the marital front!

The cars is dark grey with a tan interior, has 36K mi.,
a V12 (did they all come with the V12?),
a mint interior, some lacquer checking on the paint.
The price is around $8K. Does this seem in the ball
park? I have not seen the car yet, but when it comes
up I will need to jump on it.

Is 85 a good year?
Encourage me or discourage me.

Silas
84 XJ6
62 MK2

From: “Himes,John W.” jwh@dw.att.com
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 96 14:50:00 PDT
Subject: Old & Electric

Here are my 2 cents or pence worth. I understand that California is
mandating or proposing that by year 199_ 10% of all cars sold in the state
must be electric to help with emissions, bla bla bla…

SO that means about 1 million cars that have a top speed of 60 or 70 mph,
about a 60 to 90 mile range,(forget about performance) take 6 to 8 hours to
fully charge. ( I know some now only take 2 - 5 ) Now I am not a power
plant genius, but does this not mean a greatly increased demand for electric
power? Do these power plants not create nasty emissions out the smoke
stack? ( Unless nuclear, different pollutence ). Where is the benefit? The
old clunker smoker will still be spitting out that nice bluish white smoke
screen whizzing by those electric cars whos real emissions now will come
from the power plant. Lets not even get started on price, or the fact that
if this car get into a traffic accident, that a hazardous materials crew
must also respond to clean up the battery acid. ( better hope is stay on the
road, or the environmentalists may not be very happy with you )

I disagree about older cars not being able to pass fairly current emissions.
MY 72 Mustang needs a valve job & most likely a engine rebuild also. It
smokes when started ( I use some oil treatments that are thick as honey to
pass the visual part of the inspection ). It will still pass 88 to 92 year
emissions here in Colorado, USA. I did state that I added denatured alcohol
to the gas. That was for insurance. After I got my car home from the
emissions place, it was not running very good. That was due to one of the
spark plugs having a crack.

Most mechanic friends of mine mostly agree, if you keep it tuned up, and
running in good condition, you should never have a problem passing
emissions. If it is a hot-rod, then you may have to make a few adjustments
first.

Ok, I will get off my little soap box and be quite now.

John Himes
88 XJ-S 93K mikes

From: Tom Golodik tgolodik@cybernex.net
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 21:04:04 -0400
Subject: Re: A (sort of) philosophical question

Dan Bowdoin wrote about using a E-type as a daily driver.

Dan:
Sorry for the long reply, but your philosophical musings moved me to
words. Yes, you probably are out of your head to be considering this.
This doesn’t necessarily mean that you shouldn’t consider it. I’ve
never owned an E-type so I don’t know that particular model well. But I
did use two Jaguars, at different times, as daily drivers, day-in,
day-out, without backup. One was a Mk V I used for about a year, the
other a Mk VIII that I used for two years. Each was a deliberate
decision, attesting, therefore, to my own well developed tendency toward
self destruction, so I know whereof I speak. I’ll leave it to the
shrinks on the list to sort this out.
However, I wound up enjoying the cars more and more the longer I drove
them. With the Mk VIII, I wound up fixing a lot of little stuff at
first, once past changing all the exhaust valves, but the car ran well.
I had some trouble with overheating in summer traffic jams, but I fitted
an auxiliary electric fan that helped that out somewhat. I had no major
problems and never failed to get home. Gave me an entirely different
perspective on the car and taught me a lot about preventive maintenance
and listening to what was going on under the hood. I eventually wound
up having to take the car off the road for major work, but when I
finally finish the repairs I’d consider doing it again. With the Mk V I
had spent a lot of time putting the car into A-1 shape prior to using it
as sole vehicle. That car was a brick. I still regret selling it in a
weak moment involving inordinate amounts of cash.
I guess it comes down to a couple of things: How well developed a sense
of adventure do you have? How patient are you? How high your level of
frustration? If a breakdown in the car won’t become a personal insult,
a machine-to-man affront, if you won’t blow a gasket when your car does,
give it a shot. It also requires that the dings and dents of
outrageous fortune, usually delivered in the parking lot of the A&P,
won’t put you in a frenzy. (“Zen and the Art of E-type ownership”?)
You will also probably have to put up with the condemnation of those who
view the E-type as some sort of relic that needs to be protected and
preserved and you a criminal for wanting to drive it regularly and enjoy
it, nevermind that you paid for it. I’ve been on the wrong side of that
conversation a number of times. But I don’t buy cars for investment. I
buy, and drive them for fun and enjoyment. When they ain’t fun, its
time to sell.
That’s the personal side. The machine side requires a car that’s
relatively sound and one that’s been fully sorted out before you start
this sort of craziness. You’ll also need necessary quantities of money
to put it right and then keep it right while you use it. For myself,
I’d definitely try an E-type…it’s got to be a little more modern than
the Mk VIII. Let us know if you do it, and keep a running report going!
Then the rest of us can say, “Told you so!”
Regards
Tom Golodik

PS…My wife learned to love the VIII during this time period and went
from hating it to driving it frequently around town. She can’t wait for
me to do the work and get it rolling again! I may not be able to
utilize it as much this time around if she has her way!

From: ClaytB3@aol.com
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 21:34:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Looking at an XJS

Silas,
I’m the proud owner of an 85 XJ-S and I love it. I haven’t experienced
anything negative with it that you wouldn’t expect from any other 10 year old
car. If everything is in average condition, your car sounds like a deal. I
paid about $4k more for mine with twice as many miles.
Go for it!
Clayton Betlyon
85 XJ-S

From: BMack7316@aol.com
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 21:55:54 -0400
Subject: Re: XJS Wheels on SIII

Thanks Kirby. I had a look at yours on the web and it looks pretty trick
with the VDP wheels. What year were those? 1991ish?

Remember, were talking SIII wheels – not XJ40. SIII are the busy Italian
style with black paint on the five spokes, open lug nuts (not covered like
XJ40) and many rectangular slots around the outer edge. I looked hard at the
guy’s with the XJS rims the other day and it certainly appeared that the
tires were a little closer to the fender.

Thanks for your trade offer for the fifth wheel. If I follow through with
this and can’t get five, I might take you up on it.

Brad Mack
85 SIII
85 XJS
92 Pathfinder

From: MGordon369@aol.com
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 22:06:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Dropped valve seat kills piston?

I’d really like not to have to go into the bottom
end of this engine. (Is it possible in the car?).

It’s possible (I did it) but not easy. It’s not a bad plan to pull the
motor.

O.K.

Just how hard is it to pull the motor?

I have a 1986 XJS with 130K that needs arebuild (head gasket leaks and I
think it dropped a valve seat) Any tips from members of the list will be
appreciated. I can’t justify/can’t afford to have a shop do the rebuild for
$7,000.

Thanks

From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 22:16:16 -0400
Subject: Re: '62 E-Type, Series 1, ots

At 12:41 AM 4/18/96 +0100, you wrote:

Hi all,
Restoration is progressing…a few questions.
I’ve been reading/hearing how useless heaters/defrosters
are in an early E-Type. My car has no heater box at all
and I have to decide what to do. My mechanic’s suggestion
is to forget about it (being British, he’s used to the damp!)
I can’t imagine not having defrosters for those rainy, humid
days we get up here (Canada). Is the heater systems from
the various jag. parts suppliers adequate, or is there a better
suggestion?

I completely rebuilt he heater in my Type II with a new heater box, fan,
resistor, valve, and heater core. I can report that the effect with the
blower on high and the valve fully opened is at best fair compared to any
modern car. The output is ok, but it is difficult to adjust with any sort of
precision. The defroster is quite anemic. As to the fan-in-the-box method,
I’m not sure where you would put the heater core, and it would look
ridiculous. If you manage to get enough cold air into the plenum to defrost
the windows, you will be quite chilly.

I recently came by the parts I need for the A/C unit, and I intend to have
this complete and installed by summer. After my experience with the heater,
I’m not expecting much cool- better to aim low and avoid disappointment.

If it’s any help, the (original) wheel well and sill covers on my car are
vinyl-I guess this would have been the same as on the type I.

Mike
1969 2+2 XKE

From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 22:16:24 -0400
Subject: Re: E Type Front End Alignment

At 12:39 PM 4/18/96 EDT, you wrote:

Where should I take my E type to get the front end alignment checked?
I can’t imagine taking it to one of the $39.95 front end align shops.
Any suggestions, especially in the Westchester Co area in NY ? Todd

I will be doing my ball joints pretty soon, and will be looking for an
alignment shop once I’m done. The two places I planned to try were GP
Abington in Tarrytown, and Wheatley’s on Central Ave in Scarsdale. If those
don’t pan out, I will probably nose around Connecticut or RI for an
appropriate shop. By the way, I use Mavis in Tuckahoe for wheel alignments
on my modern cars. They do a great job for very little money. For my '66
Plymouth I use Gatti on Boston Post Road in the Bronx.

Good Luck, and please let me know what you decide!

Mike Frank
1969 Etype 2+2
1966 Plymouth Barracuda
1988 Toyota Supra
1995 SAAB 900

From: BMack7316@aol.com
Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 22:18:22 -0400
Subject: XJS on the road to recovery

Well, I’ve done it. My V5 (sometimes V7) XJS will soon be a V12 again. Boy
did I have mixed emotions as I slid the keys under my mechanic’s door tonight
(had to drive it over under cover of darkness for obvious reasons.)

On the other hand, it is not doing anyone any good just sitting there helpless. Can’t sell it, nor can I enjoy It. Atleast this way I’ll have those two options soon. Rational thought is in the eye of the beholder (head of the thinker.) Brad Mack 85 SIII 85 XJS 92 Pathfinder From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au Date: 19 Apr 96 11:31:12 Subject: Re: Old Cars vs. Safety and the Environment Snipped from Kirby’s mail: zealous electric-car-driving tree-hugger Ya gotta be kiddin’! Every tree hugger I’ve seen drives something on the order of a scabrous ‘73 Hi-Ace van that runs on three cylinders, trailing a dense cloud of blue smoke. These folks never (well, hardly ever) put their money where their big mouths are! Seriously, Kirby, you’re right - if we don’t get together and do some neat, clean lobbying and keep a high profile as defenders of fine machinery, we’ll find ourselves legislated down a hole. So how do we do it? I don’t think I can get much of a hearing for my own view that pollution and road safety are not worth bothering about because our overpopulated civilisation will anyway be destroyed in the Hunger Wars that began in 1993 and look set to reach a climax in 2007… Come to think of it, road safety is a badly misunderstood issue. Two items in point: 1. When Sweden changed over from driving on the left to driving on the right (1965?), the European press predicted horrifying carnage. The actual result was that the death rate for the first 12 months was cut in half. Why? Because everybody felt unsure and drove more carefully! 2. Sometime way back then, Road&Track proposed tongue-in cheek that every card should have a telescoping steering column with a 12-gauge buckshot shell in the upper part and a firing pin in the lower part. Think about it; wouldn’t you drive very, very carefully? Safety-cocooned cars tend to encourage careless, unskilled, crash-prone driving. Athletic, beautifully-handling cars like our Jaguars encourage us to think about what we’re doing and acquire the driving skills to match. And besides, we are very careful not to dent them, right? Jan From: Dikavik@aol.com Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 23:57:34 -0400 Subject: XK120 John Elmgreen: Rear License Plate Holder, rubber piping - I only have after-market to measure but believe it to be fairly close to the original. The round portion of the piping is a full 1/4 inch. Depending on the source, the flat tab portion may vary between 1/2 to 3/4 inch wide and 1/16 to 3/32 thick. This item is difficult to fit because it cannot be easily glued to either the boot lid or the plate holder and it must be well trimmed to make the bends at the four corners. Fender Piping - There may be as many variations as there are cars but this is what I know. The original piping was made from a (body colored) textured vinyl/rexine folded and stitched over a piece of round, smooth, cotton or jute line. The diameter of the round portion of the piping was 3/16 to 1/4 inch; the flat portion (consisting of the two ends of the fabric) was at least 1.5 inches long, reaching well into the fender/body joint. Most piping ordered these days is a solid black vinyl which must be painted to match the car color. One could probably have it made to order…the old fashioned way. Bassett’s made some for me in 1982. Felt for front fender inner guards - I believe that the OTS also originally used “felt”, although I replaced mine with closed-cell foam rubber. I can’t recall anywhere on the 120 that rubber was originally used as a seal between fixed body panels. Bonnet underside - My OTS, 672776, was originally one of the strange ones that was undercoated. I was determined to leave it that way but got so much “advice” from experts during my early showing that I removed it. I believe that the original bonnet underside was finished in the same ugly flat black found in the 1950-52 engine compartments. Incidently, the undercoating came off without any damage to the exterior paint finish by soaking it with mineral spirits and gradually scraping it off. (Yes,…with the bonnet off the car). I refinished it in body color. I’ll send exact measurements of the Tool Roll Securing Strap soon, it is nearly identical to the strap on the tool roll itself. Regards, Dick From: BMack7316@aol.com Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 00:19:05 -0400 Subject: Philosophy 101 Combining a couple threads: DAILY JAG DRIVER. A Jag-lover can get away with using one for daily transportation; others cannot. Jaguar is my brand, just as I use Crest, Old Spice, Edge, Gillette, Budweiser, etc. I don’t walk into a store trying to save a buck on cheap beer or generic cigs. Jaguar is the only brand I consider. I have driven this brand daily for all of this decade. Something extreme and drastic would have to happen to change this. I’ve found SIII are every bit as reliable as the dozen General Motors products I’ve owned in the past. And, even if they weren’t, so what? Jaguar is my brand and I’m loyal to it. AMERICANS. The $400.00, give or take a nickle, monthly car or lease payment is considered perpetual to most Americans – a forever thing until they hit the lottery and buy that Rolls with cash. Most Americans have never seen an ownership title. In other words, they typically don’t own their cars – the BANK does. I am an American and proud of it, but at the same time, the financial nature of many of my fellow countrymen pisses me off. If they had to earn the cash first and then pay for a car with it, maybe they would care more about it to bother with changing the oil every once in awhile! This instant gratification crap annoys me. It goes like this: Graduate college, get a job, get a credit card, get a car loan, all in the span of a couple months. Permanant negative net worth! The value of a dollar or a hard day’s work never really gets learned or recognized. Hence, our nation is so in debt that we can barely pay attention. Stepping off the podium for now… Brad Mack From: BMack7316@aol.com Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 00:29:52 -0400 Subject: XJ6 Lightswitch – 7" Posting this again, #@$% thanks AOL. I gotta have em’. Does anyone know of an easier way to acquire the parts to make the switch? If any of our enterprising parts suppliers are lurking, I’ll bet that there would be enough takers to support whatever effort it takes to figure out how to supply this conversion. Brad Mack 85 SIII 85 XJS 92 Pathfinder It takes a strong man to make a tender chicken From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au Date: 19 Apr 96 11:45:39 Subject: Re: A (sort of) philosophical question Roger Peng wrote:

XJ40 Yes
XJS Only if late model
XJ6 series III Tes
XJ6 series II no
XJ6 series I Maybe, if mostly rebuilt
XJ12 series I-III no
XKE forget it

Do you have personal experience of all these models, Roger, or are you going by
hearsay? I can’t comment on the others, but my two SII XJ12s (one L, one C)
have provided perfectly reliable transport over three years, one I had
rectified the POs’ neglect. That’s the key, Roger: the’re correctly maintained.
Any car will be reliable if correctly maintained.

- Jan

From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 07:52:08 +0200
Subject: Re: XJ6 Lightswitch – 7"

Brad Mack wrote re 7" headlamps:

I gotta have em’. Does anyone know of an easier way to acquire the parts to
make the switch? If any of our enterprising parts suppliers are lurking,
I’ll bet that there would be enough takers to support whatever effort it
takes to figure out how to supply this conversion.

Just what parts are necessary to make this switch? I just
changed my original 7" headlamps to new Hella H4 lamps. The
originals were of the sealed beam type. The new ones cost
60 dollars a piece and fitted straight in. I guess if the
car came with 5" lamps you would need new fittings?

My suggestion would be to call a parts emporium in the UK,
my favorite is Classic Spares (new and 2nd hand parts) and
buy the fittings and then source H4 lamps elsewhere (unless
they can supply).

Perhaps someone could set themself up as a contact and
buy a bulk order?

Nick, 7"'s on both cars

Nick Johannessen @ Work email: nick@sn.no http://www.sn.no/home/nick/
Phone: +47-2207 3981 Cell : +47-905 95132 Fax: +47-2207 3444

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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 19 April 1996 Volume 02 : Number 049

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 19 Apr 96 16:24:47
Subject: Re: A (sort of) philosophical question

Something I forgot to mention in my last contribution (?) to this thread:
observing the tribulations of local Jag enthusiasts who take their cars out for
the occasional Sunday drive and suffer terrible reliability, and contrasting
this with the way my own cars worked better and better in daily use, I formed
the theory that Jaguars need to be in daily use. What originally prompted
that observation was when I had the XJ12L off the road for three months for a
leisurely engine overhaul (I like to spin out my pleasures); getting the show
on the road again, I found that three window hoists and the central locking had
gone on strike. After driving 20-30 fairly bumpy km (this is Australia), one
after the other reported for duty. The ignition and injection systems suffered
occasional nervous prostration for a few days until I cleaned out all the Lucas
(may his grave be shrouded in cold, clammy mist for ever) connectors.

I agree wholeheartedly with Brad Mack (Philosophy 101); these are cars, not
industrial sculptures and thrive on use. Yes, they’re old cars, but with
careful maintenance, they can be kept in top-notch condition essentially
forever. I don’t expect to buy another daily-use car as long as I live.

Before I got the Jag, travelling to and from work used to be a drag; now it’s
the high point(s) of my day…

- Jan

From: robert dingli r.dingli@ee.mu.OZ.AU
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 17:11:28 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ6 Lightswitch – 7"

Nick, along with most other non US Jag-lovers is lucky enough to have
7" outer lights on his XJ,

Just what parts are necessary to make this switch? I just
changed my original 7" headlamps to new Hella H4 lamps. The
originals were of the sealed beam type. The new ones cost
60 dollars a piece and fitted straight in. I guess if the
car came with 5" lamps you would need new fittings?

For anyone interested - there are are couple of variants when it comes
to fitting 7" lights (at least here in Australia). Firstly, the SII and
SIII have a fresh air ventilation system which draws air from over the outer
headlights, through a tube and into the footwell. The outer chrome trim
for the later cars has a mesh grille which can only be seen when looking
upwards. Secondly, the SI and early SII’s (all chrome bumpers) had a
separate combined indicator and parking light either above (SI) or below
(SII) the bumper. On later cars, this lense is completely amber and the
parking light is integrated into the main outer head light. This makes
very little difference except that the short loom into the rear of the
surrounding bucket has an extra wire.

Perhaps someone could set themself up as a contact and
buy a bulk order?

The outer chrome trim is very hard to find here. They tend to be one of the
first pieces to be thrown away after an accident and unlike a body panel,
they are not really repairable. Whenever I visit my local Jag wrecker, I
ask to see whether they have any fresh stock of chrome headlight trim. I
actually need a set myself.

regards,
Robert

Robert Dingli   r.dingli@ee.mu.oz.au

Power and Control Systems (+613) 9344 7966
Thermodynamics Research Labs (+613) 9344 7712
University of Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
** he who dies with the most toys, wins **

From: “Martin Robert Fooks, WWIS” mfooks@postiss.netherlands.attgis.com
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 96 10:27:00 PDT
Subject: XJS selling price

Bless me father for I am contemplating a SIN…

I have had my modified 1981 XJS for 4 years now and was extremely happy
with it (I can honestly say it is the best car I have ever owned) and
planed to keep it till it’s dying day…Until 3 weeks ago, that is.

Living in Holland at the moment, where road tax is based on the type of
fuel you run, and the weight of your car, the XJ will prove to be a very
expensive toy. The new upstart that has caught my eye is the Lotus Elise
(675Kg), which at only around 20,000 Pounds Sterling would enable me to
get that Mk1 E’type I’ve always wanted to restore as my 2nd toy.

I plan to sell my XJ at the end of the summer (Lotus can’t build my Elise
till spring 97 at the earliest), but have no idea what price I should
sell it for.

I have spent in excess of 27,000 Pounds Sterling getting it to the stage
it is now (HTTP://www.cris.com/~Mrfooks) and it would need the right
person to really want it. There are still a couple of things I would
want to do before selling(fixing the AirCo and the Speedo tick).

What prices would I be reasonable in asking (The mileage on the clock is
75000, but nearly everything has been replaced, including interior)?

Any useful information, such as good places to advertise this sort of
beast, would be greatly appreciated.

Calvin: People think it must be fun to be a super genius,
but they don’t realize how hard it is to put up with all
the idiots in the world.
Hobbes: Isn’t your pants’ zipper supposed to be in the front?

Martin R. Fooks (Martin.Fooks@Netherlands.NCR.COM)
(Martin_Fooks@MSN.COM)
Web Pages :http://www.cris.com/~Mrfooks/
Tel : +31 20 651 2698/ +31 20 41 91 731

Network Consultant, all round good-guy & part-time Demi-God.

From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 04:24:57 -0700
Subject: Re: Getrag/or SI XJ6 4spOD

You wrote:

Has anyone installed a 5 or 6 speed conversion kit in an E-type? How
much
does this cost? How hard is it to do? Is the result wort the effort?

We use the Getrag 5 speed which works exceptionally well… we are
building a 350bhp engine for a mexican racer now with this box and the
quik shift linkage … Lou Finabza’s 6 speed is pretty much just for
racing…

Cost installed upwards of $5k

We also have fitted the SI/II 4spOD box… it works fine as well for the
street…

cost around $3k installed…

kind regards
tony

VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web

From: jaguar@gate.net
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 08:30:15 -0400
Subject: XK8 and E-Type Racing

The SCCA (Sports Car Club of America) is reviewing the XK8 for their
GT-1(not-professional) class. SCCA GT-1 is very close to SCCA Trans Am
(professional) and IMSA GTS-1. SCCA GT-1 cars can cross over to Trans Am and to
GTS-1 with very minor modifications.

IMSA manages and regulates the 24 Hours of Daytona and the 12 Hours of Sebring.
I expect to see an XK8 being built and tested next year which could lead to a
serious entry in 1998.

The only non-vintage road racing class available to a Jaguar is SCCA GT-2 which
still allows the E-Type. I have recently recieved permission from the SCCA
competition board to race an E-Type roadster without a windshield in GT-2 class.

The GT-2 E-Type will have a tube chassis with composite body panels and a live
axle rear end. The engine will be a 4.2 Liter and I will probably use a Hewland
5-Speed transmission. The rear end will be a 9" Ford with an alluminum housing.

I plan to order a chassis in May, start construction this summer and hope to be
ready for testing next spring or early summer.

I welcome any suggestions on the construction of my car and I am currently
looking for sponsors.

Doug Bohannon jaguar@gate.net
P. O. Box 2843 Sun Coast Jaguar Club
Winter Haven, FL 33883 Predator Jaguar D-Type
(941) 293-5335 Predator Jaguar XKSS under construction
1964 MGB Race Car
1965 Land Rover 109 wagon under restoration

From: RWOODLIN@garfield.foods.indiana.edu
Date: 19 Apr 96 08:18:55 EDT
Subject: XJ-S Purchase

Silas,

The last I looked the book price for a 1985 XJ-S was right around $8k.
The only cure for the cracked lacquer is to strip to bare metal,
reprime and paint. A good paint job will set you back $3k+. The low
mileage is a plus. Take the car for a nice long drive and put it
through its paces. The price may become irrelevant once you have
experienced what should be a silky-smooth and pleasure filled ride!

Robert Woodling
'84 XJ-S

From: HDR64@aol.com
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 09:18:05 -0400
Subject: Re: XJ6 Lightswitch – 7"

Our company does import and have contact in the UK for Jaguar parts.
Although, I haven’t purchased any conversion lamps, yet. I do show a listing
for them in my original parts book. So…it should not be difficult to get
some sort of estimate together. As for bulk orders, that always makes pricing
less. Please email if you have any interest in the 7" conversion.

Best Regards,
Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax

From: alindsay@fit.edu (ALEX H. LINDSAY)
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 09:33:01 -0400
Subject: Re: A (sort of) philosophical question

Something I forgot to mention in my last contribution (?) to this thread:
observing the tribulations of local Jag enthusiasts who take their cars out
for
the occasional Sunday drive and suffer terrible reliability, and contrasting
this with the way my own cars worked better and better in daily use,

    I have to agree. In my years as a marine mechanic, I found that

boats that only got infrequent, casual use generally had the most problems
while those that were used regularly and to their full capability had few
problems (as long as they were well maintained).
I don’t know how many times I went on a service call and the
customer was complaining that they just had a tune-up and had hardly used
their boat and now it won’t start/run right. Then you find the tune-up was
several months ago and, true, they had only used it a few times since then.
Well, surprise, surprise!
The customer that I saw least was the one that had an regular oil
changes
(if four-stroke), gear lube changes, tune-ups, and then proceeded to use
(and enjoy) their boat on a regular basis.
Alex H. Lindsay

From: DHarr13177@aol.com
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 10:05:33 -0400
Subject: Re: '62 E-Type, Series 1, ots

I have a complete airconditioning setup for series 1 or 2 for sale

– $ 1,000

Doug

From: RLehman x2576 RLEHMAN@npr.org
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 9:59:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Cast wheels for sale

For sale: “Dayton Wire wheels” 6.5J x 15 x 28.5

Four pieces, Five spoke aluminum rims for all Jags until 1987
Brand new in original boxes, x-rated
Original price $1600. US

best offer

SEND REPLIES TO: rbrablec@npr.org

Russ Lehman “nothing worthwhile is ever easy”
NPR AED
Internet: rlehman@npr.org
Telco: 703-330-2356

From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 10:48:05 -0400
Subject: Dry Sump

I am only generally familiar with the operation of a dry sump oiling system.
However, I am somewhat surprised that it hasn’t been adopted for many street
cars. In theory, the use of a dry sump combined with a multi-plate clutch
should allow the engine to be set significantly lower in the car, improving
the CG, improving the visibility, reducing the driveline hump in RWD cars,
and other benefits. I have heard descriptions of Honda development teams
talking about putting great efforts into taking a few millimeters off the
height of their engines, and they still haven’t gone to dry sumps as far as
I know.

Can someone who is more familiar with dry sumps please enlighten me? Why
aren’t they more common?

  --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                   |  some rules must be broken.
                   |          -- Palm's Postulate

From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 10:47:52 -0400
Subject: The Classic American Driver

I have a “friend” who buys a new car every two years, and brags that he
never changes the oil, just sells the car off.

Now, IMHO, that’s right up there with wife-beating and cruelty to animals.

Whoa, now, that depends. Is it a GM product with a pushrod engine? If so,
it may be a wise practice.

As long as we’re discussing the American car owner, I will mention what a
friend of mine said about his neighbor – and, believe me, it wasn’t a
compliment: “He’s the kind of guy who goes down to the Chevy dealer on
Saturday for free Pepsi and hot dogs, and they sell him a car.”

  --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                   |  some rules must be broken.
                   |          -- Palm's Postulate

From: Paul Peard Paul.Peard@BankersTrust.com
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 15:56:37 +0100
Subject: Re: Hazy XJ40 Headlamp lens

Apologies for replying to “last weeks digests”, I haven’t had
much chance to get near the system since the new arrivals…

A couple of thoughts about the hazy lamp problem, if its water,
the heat of the headlamp bulbs should vapourise it, but if the
bulb seals well then the vapour can’t go anywhere, but if the
bulbs (or the lens) seals that well, how did the water get in
there in the first place.

Assuming it is water, I remember the following from school
chemistry lessons about making sure things are "really
really dry, rinse them with acetone, this “grabs hold” of the
water and then evaporates at much lower temp. - this may be
complete hogwash - school was a long time ago!

Regards
Paul

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 10:41:11 -0500
Subject: [none]

Sometime way back then, Road&Track proposed tongue-in cheek that every card
should have a telescoping steering column with a 12-gauge buckshot shell in
the
upper part and a firing pin in the lower part. Think about it; wouldn’t you
drive very, very carefully?

Something else that works is to disconnect the horn. Its less lethal. Try
it some day and see if you are not more carefull as you realise you cannot
warn the other guy.

Jim

===================================================
" Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"

John Wayne

P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.

From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 09:26:46 -0700
Subject: Re: Dry Sump

Hi…
just as an aside on the subject we are using a special Weaver pattern
pump with a large wet sump having 4.5 additional gallonage for a 4.75
litre race engine developing over 360 bhp…

Dry sumps are now not necessary … in this config …

all the best
tony

VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web

From: “Ed Freige” edf@borrego.studio.sgi.com
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 09:38:59 -0700
Subject: Re: E Type as a daily driver

It has been very entertaining reading all the pros and cons regarding the
question about using an E Type as a daily driver. I for one purchased a
'66 E Type Coupe in '72 for $2,000US, I still own the car and for the
first 11 years of ownership drove it every day rain or shine (California
Style) as well as on 800+ mile trips, the car NEVER let me down in all the
135,000 miles of driving. Granted there were some inconveniences that
would occur depending on weather, such as rainy days the windshield would
tend to fog up along with the rest of the windows so I would have to keep
them very clean, the footwells got extremely hot in the summer time so
I would keep all windows and rear quarters open. I faithfully changed the
oil and filter every 2,000 miles, checked all fluids weekly. Regarding
maintenance I did everything myself, calipers, hydraulic clutch cylinder
rebuild, fan motor replacement, carb sync, plugs, timing, dist rebuild,
tachometer sender repair etc…lots of small items. Never had any major
electrical problems with the car. I do sincerely believe that if you
can keep your car out of the repair shops and do the work yourself
you will never have as many problems related to electrical or mechanical.
During the past 14 years the car has been used on weekends and is now
nearing restoration completion to once again become a daily driver.
The pride of ownership and the continual thumbs up from admirers and
on lookers far outweighs all the minor incoveniences that you encounter
with the car. I have owned over 50 different cars during my life and
I have to say that the E Type has been the most enjoyable, comfortable
and fun ride I have encountered.

Ed.

From: Peter Morris pmorris@tfb.com
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 10:42:12 +0000
Subject: Re: XJ6 SIII 7" Headlights

On 15 Apr 96 at 14:40, Kirby Palm wrote:

And while I don’t own an XJ6, I agree that the 7" lights the car was
designed for look a BUNCH better than the smaller light with the
hokey spacer around it. I dunno why all XJ6 owners aren’t making
this mod.

The smaller lights incorporate a grill for the fresh air intake of the
air conditioning system. The air is ducted via the wings to outlets
in the scuttle side panels beneath the parcel tray. The outlets are
controlled by a three position lever.

Problem: my car has the intake grill/bezel around the light but I’ve
never seen the three-position lever. Can’t see into the wing to
verify the presence of any ducting!
Regards,

Peter Morris

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 10:41:11 -0500
Subject: [none]

Jim suggests, for safety;

<Something else that works is to disconnect the horn. Its less lethal. Try
<it some day and see if you are not more carefull as you realise you cannot
<warn the other guy.

In countries like the US, it wouldn’t matter much. We hardly ever use the
horn. In places I’ve lived, like Sicily, it would be disasterous. The
Sicialian drivers would all of a sudden find themselves with one hand that
had nothing to do.

LLoyd -the other hand is busy shaking a clenched fist out the window-

From: Dan Graves dan@fubar.rose.hp.com
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 10:57:22 PDT
Subject: Re: E-type daily drivers…

content-type:text/plain;charset=us-ascii
mime-version:1.0

Okay, guess I’ll through in my opinion on this subject too. I have a '69
E-type that I drive mostly between the spring and fall months of CA. In a
way, I expect more problems with this car than the others I have because of
the “reputation” of older Jaguars. Because of this I pay a lot more
attention to it. I check the fluid levels just about every time I
take it out and look at any noises or potential problems as soon as they
occur. Where as the other cars I have I tend to let go longer or not pay
as much attention too because I assume they’ll run better or be more
dependable. I guess I’m lazy with everything but the Jag.

So, I agree with Ed, E-types can be daily drivers if you make the extra
effort to keep on top of maintenance. Let me see, should I check over the
E-type and make sure its happy before driving it, or should I just drive
the Chevy van? Hmmmm…

Dan
'69 E-type OTS

From: kboetzer@auspex.com (Ken Boetzer)
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 11:06:02 -0700
Subject: Re: Dry Sump

I am only generally familiar with the operation of a dry sump oiling system.
However, I am somewhat surprised that it hasn’t been adopted for many street
cars. In theory, the use of a dry sump combined with a multi-plate clutch
should allow the engine to be set significantly lower in the car, improving
the CG, improving the visibility, reducing the driveline hump in RWD cars,
and other benefits. I have heard descriptions of Honda development teams
talking about putting great efforts into taking a few millimeters off the
height of their engines, and they still haven’t gone to dry sumps as far as
I know.

Can someone who is more familiar with dry sumps please enlighten me? Why
aren’t they more common?
  --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                   |  some rules must be broken.
                   |          -- Palm's Postulate

Kirbert,

From my experience I would say $$$. The dry sumps require lots of plumbing and
multistage oil pumps. (OK at least two.) Porsche uses them on the air cooled
engines, for cooling primarily. I can’t speak to the effort to remove the few
mm by Honda. It does seem like an interesting way to go though. I was going to
dry sump one of my street motors, (a swap situation), but the $700 price for the
pump put me off. In production though that would change significantly.

Cheers,

Ken

From: Ryan Border rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 11:25:10 -0700
Subject: Old cars et al

My $0.02 on: Safety, crumple zones, old cars, etc…

Crumple zones in a car are designed to spread decelleration out over
a longer distance, thus reducing the rate of decelleration and the
resultant forces on the pink squishy things inside. They
do no good at all if after the car has gradually crumpled to a halt,
you proceed to slam into the dashboard at full speed because you weren’t
wearing your seatbelt.

That said, in vehicle/vehicle collisions, momentum transfer plays a
big role too. If I’m cruising along in my 6500lb 1960 Cadillac battleship
and collide with a Geo Metro… well, let’s just say I’d rather not be in
that Metro. On the other hand, no car is going to win the momentum contest
with a bridge abutment- and no ammount of “sturdiness” will help you. I’d
much rather hit that bridge in the same Geo Metro that would get crunched
by my Cadillac. Maximum saftey is probably a late model (designed to
crumple) large car (Like a late model XJ6).

Re- old cars and the environment: That same Cadillac gets 8-10 mpg.
I try and keep it tuned as best I can (mostly to increase mileage and
power), but fully recognize that it will never run as clean as a new car.
On the other hand, my daily driver (to work) is a bicycle. There is another solution to this whole problem- we just don’t like it very much. Increase the gas tax to reflect true costs of pollution and put the money towards cleaning things up. Old ratted out clunkers will disappear from the road- they’ll no longer be such “cheap” forms of transport. It will become cost effective to pay a little more attention to car (both old AND new) maintenance to keep cars running at peak efficiency. Collectors and restorers won’t get hit too hard… we don’t put that many miles on the cars anyway, and a few hundred bucks a year in extra fuel costs is a pretty small fraction of all the time and money sunk into most restoration projects. Such a change wouldn’t change how and what I do with my old Jaguar at all. I’d probably get rid of the Cadillac. There- that should start a fire. Ryan. End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #49 ******************************* Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.6.12/on1) id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Sat, 20 Apr 1996 21:08:09 +0200 Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 21:08:09 +0200 Message-Id: 199604201908.VAA05613@ekeberg.sn.no From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #50 Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Precedence: bulk X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 20 April 1996 Volume 02 : Number 050 From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell) Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 14:04:04 -0400 Subject: [none] Braman is incorrect. 1. To be securely strapped into a rigid car is virtually the last thing you want. To be perfectly secured into a perfectly rigid car that strikes a perfectly immovable object would kill you instantly at a surprisingly low speed. Your body would be externally stopped instantly. Unfortunately, your major internal organs would continue to move forward. Your death would come from massive internal damage, including your heart being torn free from it’s major blood vessels. The latter is, in fact, a frequent cause of death in high speed crashes where the occupant is wearing belts and there isn’t a lot of external damage to the body. 2. NASCAR invented crumple zones. The cars are carefully designed to crush and shed parts in a major impact. Only the roll cage directly surrounding the driver is designed to remain intact and protect him from intrusion from external forces. If the cars were really rigid the drivers most certainly wouldn’t walk away. They can crush at least four feet at either end before getting to the roll cage. Reply Message ------------------------------- From: Braman Colton Wing bcw6@cornell.edu Date: Thu, 18 Apr 1996 12:27:56 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Old Cars vs. Safety and the Environment in regards to safety, it seems as if there are two schools of thought. Modern cars are designed to crumple, with the car absorbing the kinetic energy and protecting the driver. With older cars, the object being hit absorbs the energy, which is fine until you hit a really solid wall or something. I realize that with airbags, crumple zones, etc. modern cars are theoretically safer, but I think that as long as you’re strapped in securely, a really solid older car can be just as safe. All you have to do is look at a stock car. They are built with a roll cage designed to prevent any crumpling at all, and yet drivers routinely hit the wall at 150+mph and walk away. I think the secret is to have a driver restraint that keeps you from hitting the windshield, dash, etc. I am also a member of the Land Rover list, and there are literally hundreds of stories of Land Rovers hitting everything from moose to semi trucks and the occupants walking(or even driving) away. In short, I can see the theory behind crumple zones, but in practice, it seems as if a rigid bodied car can be just as safe under many circumstances. From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell) Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 15:58:56 -0500 Subject: Re: A (sort of) philosophical question All this talk about how unreliable older cars are seems to forget that when they were new they were reliable. An older car is no more or less reliable than a newer car. It just depends on your scheduled maintenance. And, when an older car (one with standard ignition system) stops, it is usualy a few minutes fiddling to get it to limp home. You will not limp home if you have a computer controlled car! I have 6 cars, the newest one is 11 years old (1985 Cadilac Seville) the oldest one is 26 years old (1970 E type). In the past I have owned cars as old ar 66 years and as new as Brand new. All had their quirks, but the only ones that left me walking were a 1958 Continental which was 5 years old (blown torque converter)and a 1985 Ford Escort that was less than a year old (it blew an ignition module because it was heat sinked to the block of all things and August in Texas is hell on ignition modules anyway). I have limped home many a time with a jurry rigged system, like the time the arm on the fuel pump broke off in the oil pan on a 1965 Citroen ID 19. I rigged a piece of string to the primmer handle and ran it in the wind wing and pumped it up and down as I drove home. Then there was the time I replaced the diaphram in the fuel pump of a 1962 Mercedes with a piece cut out of my wifes shower cap tied to the shaft with dental floss and sealed at the edge with fingernail polish (we were in the middle of the chihuiui deseart in Mexico with nothing but hot sind in every direction so its a good thing I didnt have a computer controlled car). I sold that car two years later and the shower cap was still in place! I would have loved to have seen the face of the mechanic that discovered that prety flowered diaphram! Jim =================================================== " Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!" John Wayne P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet. =================================================== From: elgparts@xnet.com (Dennis Murphy) Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 16:13:24 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Re:Looking at an XJS Oh boy, here I go again! I may have an opportunity to purchase an 85 XJS. This is gonna take some convincing on the marital front! Once she drives it she will be a pushover. My wife came back from a trip to Wisconsin a couple of years ago and her comment was “You’re right, it really does settle down and drive nice over 120.” !! The cars is dark grey with a tan interior, has 36K mi., a V12 (did they all come with the V12?), a mint interior, some lacquer checking on the paint. The price is around $8K. Does this seem in the ball park? I have not seen the car yet, but when it comes up I will need to jump on it. Is 85 a good year? Encourage me or discourage me. Silas 84 XJ6 62 MK2 Silas, Go for it! From my experience the '85 HE was a great car. Mine had right around 36k when I bought it in 1991. Sold it last year with just over 70k for $6,000. I could have done better, but my paint went south. Watch the lacquer checking you can assume it is just going to get worse and since it is under the clear coat there is nothing you can do about it. Mine got quite bad on the upper surfaces (hood, top & trunk (or bonnet, hood & boot if you prefer!)) It still looked good and had a good shine from 10 feet away, but up close the checking was fairly obvious. Some of it may have been due to sitting outside in the sun all day. Now I keep a cover on my '90 whenever it is parked outside (live and learn!) I also had a problem where a partial repaint had been done. The rear fenders and deck had been repainted - something I was aware of when I bought it. But the paint faded white quite badly on the corners of the top and the sail panels where it had been blended. Mechanically it was no problem. Between 36k and 70k I replaced the AC compressor, water pump, the steering rack, and had the transmission rebuilt. That was it other than normal maintenance, exhaust and tires. Actually I put new tires on when I bought it and they still had a few thousand left when I sold it. I paid $10,000 in ‘91. With repairs and all (I do a lot myself, but paid for steering rack and trans) I figured it cost me about $300 a month to drive it for four years - not bad IMHO! With those kind of miles it sounds like a good deal, especially if you can get him down a bit because of the paint. Good Luck! Dennis Murphy Geneva, IL 1952 XK 120 1990 XJ-S From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 17:27:54 -0400 Subject: Re: Dry Sump Dry sumps are now not necessary … in this config … I suppose I should have first asked the purpose. It is my impression that dry sump systems serve three purposes: 1) Remove the standing oil from the crankcase so that the rotating parts don’t slosh through it – thereby reducing drag and heat buildup. 2) Increase oil capacity, since you can install a BIG dry sump tank to keep as much oil as you’d like. 3) To reduce the physical depth of the engine (the crankcase only needs to clear the crank), thereby allowing lower mounting of the engine. Does this agree with others’ understanding? Tony, did your reply address #2, while my question addressed #3? Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | – Palm’s Postulate From: Craig Tiano ctiano@voicenet.com Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 19:39:19 -0400 Subject: Re: Old cars et al If I’m cruising along in my 6500lb 1960 Cadillac battleship Re- old cars and the environment: That same Cadillac gets 8-10 mpg. Such a change wouldn’t change how and what I do with my old Jaguar at all. I’d probably get rid of the Cadillac. Ryan, isn’t that 1960 Cadillac your hearse? How could you live without a side-loader? Doesn’t everyone need a large weekend vehicle in which to go grocery shopping? Tongue planted firemly in cheek… Craig Tiano homepage: http://www.voicenet.com/~ctiano email: ctiano@voicenet.com American Eskimo Dogs, Photography, Antique Cars, HTML/CGI/Datacomm guru ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ From: Tom Golodik tgolodik@cybernex.net Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 21:25:25 -0400 Subject: Re: Old Cars and safety I can bring some experience to bear on the thread re seatbelts, airbags and auto safety. I had a front end collision a couple of years ago, hitting a stopped truck at a relatively low speed–about 20 to 25 miles an hour. I was wearing a seat belt, but in a car not equipped with an airbag. I was pitched forward by the sudden stop, but didn’t hit anything and didn’t have a bruise. Nonetheless I was left unconscious by the sudden decleration. The neurologist told me at the time that the brain tends to get pushed against the skull case, breaking blood vessels and squishing various essential parts when you stop suddenly. I wound up with short term memory loss, an inability to concentrate and general edginess for about six months after the accident. (Friends point out it may not have entirely passed.) When I reached the outward travel allowed by the seat belt, I was flung back into the seat, crushing one vertebra. I still snap, crackle and pop in the morning. The vehicle was a XJ6 SII, and, no, I don’t want to talk about it. Tom Golodik From: Tom Golodik tgolodik@cybernex.net Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 21:30:45 -0400 Subject: Re: Dry Sump I’ve always thought one of the inherent advantages of the dry sump is that the engine lubricating system could be fully pressurized before you attempted to start the car since dry sumps usually utilize an external electrical pump. If most of the wear and tear on the engine comes during the first couple of seconds on startup before oil pressure rises to suitable psi, this could help lengthen the life of bearing surfaces. Also, I would think pressure would tend to be more uniform, regardless of the rpm or engine temperature. Tom Golodik From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 01:40:32 -0400 Subject: Re: A (sort of) philosophical question All this talk about how unreliable older cars are seems to forget that when they were new they were reliable. An older car is no more or less reliable than a newer car. It just depends on your scheduled maintenance. Come on, you guys don’t really believe that! The theories of reliability are quite clear, and have been analysed to a fine degree in the case of aircraft. Military jet aircraft engines are designed, maintained, and inspected to provide an extremely high level of reliability, bordering on absolute certainty. It works like this: you design parts so that they will run for so many hours before a crack appears, and then so many more hours before the crack grows large enough to be reliably observed during an inspection. The parts are tested to determine how long they will run between the point the cracks reach observable size and when they will finally fail. Then, the inspection intervals are scheduled to be LESS than this amount of operation, so that there is relative certainty that non-observable cracks will not cause failure. Cars are another matter. Nobody does any kind of elaborate inspections; instead, scheduled maintenance typically involves merely replacing items before they exceed their design life. When the car is new, theoretically it is very reliable – all the parts are well within their design lives. Some people feel that the best way to maintain reliability is to replace ALL the parts before any reach the end of their design life – IOW, buy a new car every year or two. Other folks choose to trust the owner’s manual, and perform the maintenance scheduled therein. This usually involves replacing certain parts on a schedule, and will usually result in very good reliability throughout the vehicle’s design life. Unfortunately, a vehicle’s design life is not “forever”, but rather some considerably more limited span, something like 10 years or 100,000 miles. Going beyond this point is exceeding design life for the vehicle in general, and you can throw the owner’s manual away; it will not tell you the shedule you need to follow to rebuild the motor, the transmission, the final drive, the brakes, the suspension, etc., etc., in order to keep the car in truly reliable condition. There are those of us who proudly venture into this realm on a continual basis. For us, unusual failures are to be expected; I recall hearing how one jag-lover had his car break in half at an intersection! Yes, you can keep an old car in a very good state of reliability with scrupulous care combined with listening and learning of the experiences of others with similar automobiles. And, considering how many “infant mortality” problems, design defects, and general examples of poor workmanship exist in some new cars these days, you may actually succeed in keeping an old car on the road as much as many newer cars. But when considering relying on an older car for sole means of transportation, one should be aware that there are definitely some risks that simply do not exist with a new car. Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | – Palm’s Postulate From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 01:52:49 -0400 Subject: Re: Dry Sump I’ve always thought one of the inherent advantages of the dry sump is that the engine lubricating system could be fully pressurized before you attempted to start the car since dry sumps usually utilize an external electrical pump. This would be a BIG benefit if, in fact, an electrical pump is used. Does anyone know enough to describe in detail what a dry sump pump looks like? I always expected there would actually be TWO pumps: one high-volume, low-pressure unit to scavenge the oil from the crankcase and send it into the external oil tank, plus one high-pressure pump to provide lubricating oil to the engine. To achieve the starting benefit, it’s the second pump that needs to be electric. I would not expect this, since it requires a good deal of power to drive such a pump, and an electric pump would be large – probably large enough to require its own alternator. Of course, it might be possible to have two separate high-pressure pumps working together, a small electric pump along with a big engine-driven pump. I also fail to see why a dry sump system would be necessary to achieve this benefit. Couldn’t an electric supplemental pump be installed in a conventional wet-sump oil system? Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | – Palm’s Postulate From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@compuserve.com Date: 20 Apr 96 02:11:12 EDT Subject: XK120s Replying to Dick Cavicke’s comments - Rear number/licence plate holder piping: seems this is very like the rear guards/fender piping but not quite the same, with many cars these days also having had the piping replaced in one or both areas. I guess that is why people like me (and Bruce Carnachan) thought they were the same piping - but I was then put off by the parts book recording a different part number, and saying “rubber” which was never used for the rear guards. Anyone got what they think is the original piping here? Re the rear guards piping: I have a series of notes collected here. Most (incl Bruce Carnachan, CJA) seem to agree that the piping was body colour and for earlier cars was rope covered Rexine (leathercloth). Porter dates the change very precisely at 13 April 53 (about the date of intro of the DHC) and I expected to find that in a Service Bulletin - but did not! What his source was, he does not say. BUT: JCNA says that sometimes the piping was black or not matching; Terry McGrath says that for some colours, Rexine may have been used after the plastic piping was introduced. Underbonnet finish: by “undercoat” do you mean what I would call “underseal” i.e. sound deadening / rust proofing gunk? Bruce Carnachan states that many cars had this, and that it may have been dealer applied in the USA, but was factory applied to cars later, but never to the firewall. I also had to remove a huge anount of this stuff from my car - when it was “restored” in the UK, it was smothered with underseal everywhere, most of which has now been removed. Messy job. Jamie also mentioned this stuff, but with body colour underneath it. Jamie, where was it applied? Under the bonnet only? What about under the guards, firewall, inner guards? Body colour under there too? Was the underseal stuff black or was it painted over body colour? Thanks for the other details Jamie, too. Jamie, when you refer to the original felt for the front guards, do you mean between the inner guards and the lower removeable panel, in the engine compartment area? What about between the guards (inside face) and the side of the scuttle? Felt there too? (Good rust trap I would think). General: we now have nearly 20 on this list, maybe I should do a short summary of names, and cars owned, where you live etc. Time does not permit at the moment however. From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk Date: Fri, 19 Apr 1996 22:13:58 GMT Subject: Re: XK8 Niches In message 199604181329.AA06491@gcn.scri.fsu.edu Kirby Palm writes: Will the XK8 fill this underpopulated niche? Not with an automatic transmission, it won’t! You gotta wonder just what niche they hope to fill! Plenty of power AND an auto gearbox AND lots of metal AND a soggy suspension were exactly the reasons why I bought my XJ-S. An XK-8 with auto tranny will (hopefully) be comfortable and fast at the same time. There is a market for that. Regards, Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk From: WestNet mfrank@westnet.com Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 09:06:57 -0400 Subject: Philosophy (Free Willy) Yesterday, I had a business appointment on 57th Street in NYC. Afterwards, I walked over to the Museum of Modern Art to see the new Jaguar exhibit. Here are some impressions: 1. I expected the Jag to be exhibited in the courtyard or the lobby. Somehow having it at the top of an escalator on the 3rd floor was unsettling. It was like going to the zoo and seeing a lion in a tiny iron cage. 2. The Jag was a Series I OTS, sort of a Plum color. It was as close to perfect as any I have seen. 3. The midday crowd at MOMA is definitely not auto-oriented. Everyone there seemed to think the car was very pretty - an important expression of industrial design. 4. The engine had been removed and placed on a stand. It was as perfect as the car. Not a drop of oil or grease, and all the orifices had been sealed with polished steel blanking plates. 5. Many of the original working blueprints were on the wall, neatly framed. When I went home, I opened the garage and looked at my own Jag. Yes, there is a tiny spec of rust on the headlight bucket. Yes, the engine has soiled itself. Yes, the door hinges sag a bit. I start the engine, and it ticks over immediately, eager for the road. I think that if a car has a soul, this one is happy. All in all, my Jag looks better to me than the captive car in the Museum. Not just because it’s mine, but because it’s doing what it was meant to do. I’m not convinced that driving an XKE every day is rational, but museum life is completely the opposite extreme, and I don’t like it one bit. The Cat should be free! Mike Frank 1969 2+2 Etype From: DHarr13177@aol.com Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 10:04:56 -0400 Subject: Re: AC for Etype I have a series 1 coupe 1966 The air conditioning set up is for sale- - $1,000 Compressor is rebuilt and with new clutch, new evaporator The vents are about 2 inches high It looks like the pictures in the various E-type books It is probably an aftermarket kit of the period Doug It probably was added on after delivery From: bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman Wing) Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 10:07:16 -0400 Subject: Re: Old Cars and safety Okay, I stand corrected. Perhaps it’s just the mental sense of security that I get from driving a tank that makes me prefer a Land Rover or a MkX to a smaller newer car. Regards, Braman From: William Kroppe kroppe@mich.com Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 10:19:22 -0400 Subject: Re: Dry Sump Kirby wrote:

In theory, the use of a dry sump combined with a multi-plate clutch
should allow the engine to be set significantly lower in the car, improving
the CG, improving the visibility, reducing the driveline hump in RWD cars,
and other benefits.

Can someone who is more familiar with dry sumps please enlighten me? Why
aren’t they more common?

Ken Boetzer has it right - it’s mainly the cost of doing it. You’re right
too, Kirby in that automotive stylists (they prefer to be called designers)
will do anything to get all the hardware stuff packed down as low as possible
so they can have as much artistic flexibility as possible. My job for the
last two years has been in vehicle packaging, where we were in a constant
struggle with the stylists. The packaging/styling saga recurs on every
vehicle at every company.

Another reason why dry sumps may not be common in production cars is
reliability. Adding additional oil hoses/lines introduces another potential
leak point, therefore something else in the system which has a probability
of leaking.

Last, is the weight of the equipment (but you would have a smaller oil pan,
hard to say what the total weight diff. would be) and the space it takes up.
In today’s engine bays space is at a premium (take a look at a late 60’s
Camaro engine bay for laughs) and the ancillary hardware needed to execute
the dry sump would, I’m sure, be difficult to fit in the engine bay. Well,
then, why don’t we put it somewhere else you may ask? You could put it
in the boot, but there you have longer oil lines and you would be taking
away trunk space, which must be considered if you’re doing it to a sedan,
but maybe not so important if you’re doing this to a sports car.

From: Tom Golodik tgolodik@cybernex.net
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 13:56:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Philosophy (Free Willy)

Mike:

That engine at MOMA isn’t the one from the car, which still has its
engine. Jaguar didn’t want the hood opened to display it, messing up
the aesthetics of those fine lines. The engine on display was borrowed
from Motorcraft, a Jaguar restoration shop in East Rutherford, NJ. The
museum doesn’t own the engine. Joe Maletsky, owner of Motorcraft who
did the rebuild on the '64 3.8, loaned it to Jaguar who loaned it to the
museum.

Tom Golodik

From: Tommy loner@peterboro.net
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 15:07:51 -0400
Subject: 1985 XJ6

Hi Guys (and Gals)!

I’ve got a Jag fixer from the old country now living in southern Ontario =
who I’ve been buggin’ for two front wings I need for my 1980 XJ6. He =
says he comes across good used ones from time to time, doesn’t sell =
crappy ones, and lets them go for a $100 a piece. Now that’s a deal! =
Unfortunately I’ve been on his case since the spring of '95 and he =
hasn’t had anything available. Dammit.

Anyways, he calls me this morning to tell me he wants to get rid of a =
1985 XJ6 that he recently took in cheap. He’s apparently been driving it =
on a regular basis, this guy is so sincere in an British sort of way, =
he’s my #@*%! hero, and wants to sell it for $2500 (that’s Canadian, =
equivalent to about $1800 U.S.). Now I know it’s bargain priced but I =
haven’t seen the car yet, it’s three hours away. Maybe I’ll check it out =
next Saturday.

Anyways, it’s got a black exterior, black tinted windows (I know, it’s a =
pimp-mobile - what? a Jag as a pimp-mobile - isn’t that an oxymoron), =
dark tan interior?, 200 K on the clock, all electrics work except some =
(ha! ha!) like the central locking is, ah, well, “sticky”, a/c doesn’t =
work, etc. He claims it’s not rotten, but the boot floor/rear valence is =
starting to go. Wing portions over the headlamps seem solid, although =
you never know till you start pokin, afterall it’s been repainted. =
Overall, he admits it’s rather tattered but with some elbow grease and =
TLC he figures it’s a good buy.

All I need are some gawddamn front wings. I’ve considered taking in such =
a car for parts though, and I’ve got lots of outdoor space to store it, =
but my wife will freak. She knows about my fender requirements, and at a =
$100 each she doesn’t really mind. Maybe I’ll just tell her that the =
fenders I’ve been looking for came with the car! Maybe.

So what do y’all think?

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #50

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jag-lovers-digest Sunday, 21 April 1996 Volume 02 : Number 051

From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 15:46:54 -0400
Subject: Re: XK8 Niches

Will the XK8 fill this underpopulated niche? Not with an automatic
transmission, it won’t! You gotta wonder just what niche they hope to fill!

Plenty of power AND an auto gearbox AND lots of metal AND a soggy suspension
were exactly the reasons why I bought my XJ-S. An XK-8 with auto tranny
will (hopefully) be comfortable and fast at the same time. There is a
market for that.

Agreed. However, there are presently about a hundred different cars out
there filling this niche; even an equal share of this market will be a poor
sales result. On the other hand, plenty of power, a smooth 5- or 6-speed
tranny, light weight, excellent handling and braking performance would put
the car in a class with very few competitors indeed; even if the overall
market were smaller, the chunk of that market the XK8 could corner would
make for a much larger amount of sales.

Like I said, sometimes I wonder how these idiots think. They take a survey,
and 85% of the customers say they want a back seat, so EVERY goddamn car
made for decades has a back seat! NOBODY wants to cater to the 15%! 90%
want an A/T, so next thing you know a manual is not even offered!

It might be even worse; they might just ask if a smooth ride is good, and
the answer will, of course, be yes. A smooth ride is always good. They
don’t bother to ask about the tradeoffs, whether an owner would be willing
to trade some easy-chair comfort for the ability to actually turn the car.

It seems to me that automakers have gotten more and more like politicians.
We used to have statesmen for leaders, who would do the right thing and tell
us why. Now we have politicians who don’t care what’s right, they just do
what the surveys say the people want and will therefore get them reelected.
Car companies don’t even try to make a decent car, they just assemble a
laundry list of features the marketing weenies say the people want; if, for
once, they would just forget all that shit and make a good car, they might
find it would sell!

Sir William, where are you?

  --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                   |  some rules must be broken.
                   |          -- Palm's Postulate

From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 16:44:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Dry Sump

A friend of mine who races told me about a system available to deliver
pressure to the oil system prior to starting the engine. He said they are
usually air cylinder systems which are discharged by an electrical switch to
pump some oil just before cranking. The air reservoir is then
re-presssurized after the engine is running.
I think these are used for long life marine diesel engines too.
Sorry no other details.
I would definately be interested in such a system if I rebuild my engine.
Julian Mullaney

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sat, 20 Apr 1996 18:15:20 -0500
Subject: Description of a DRY SUMP system.

My Lola Formula racer (open wheel rocket) has a dry sump system. And an
“Accusump”.

There is ONE pump a resevoir and lots of tubing and a filter and a cooler.

The oil is scavanged from the sump continualy and is fed to the “scavage
outlet” where it goes to the cooler then to the resovoir. From there it goes
back to the engine block pressure inlet. From the pressure outlet of the
pump it goes to the filter then to the block. There is only one pump
(mechanical) but it is a two stage pump. They also make tripple stage pumps
(mechanical) for double scavaging.

If you want pre oiling you must also have an “Acusump” or other brand.
These are only an accumulator that accumulates oil under pressure from the
system and holds it in reserve in case of a pump failure (usualy several
quarts) and if pressure fails it will return the oil to the system until it
is empty allowing you to maybe get back to the pits (less than a mile
usualy). It is fitted with an electrical valve that holds the oil in the
accumulator when you turn off the engine (or else you would overfill the
sump with the 2 qts of oil that it holds) but you must remember to turn off
the valve before you turn off the engine and not turn it on until the engine
oil pressure is up to normal. The one exception is to turn it on before
starting for a few seconds, long enough to pre oil the engine, then turn it
off until the engine is running at full pressure. They are realy not
designed for pre oiling, but it could work that way.

BUT the main thing to remember is that you don’t want to dump 2 qts of oil
into an already filled sump because there is not room for it and it will
leak all over the place so you must manage the selonoid operated valve very
carefully.

It is definately heavier since there are more parts and the dry sump is
usualy made with plate steel rather than the light weight sheet steel of a
wet sump because they are (in my case) just two inches from the pavement and
on occasion actualy scrape bottom on a fast transition through a dip!

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: REMANKING@aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 02:02:10 -0400
Subject: Re: XK120s feedback

My car had thick undercoating (looked like roofing tar or asphalt) under the
bonnet, in the wings (fenders), and most of the frame. it did not have any
on the firewall. the engine compartment and firewall were painted black
(even on the angled portion of the firewall were the body number is). There
was body color under the black. The body color underneath became very “thin”
lower down in the engine compartment and firewall.
The felt is between the mud guards and the front wings, and when I removed
the undercoating was pristine as was the wiring that the “tar” protected.
The undercoating cam off very easily with a little heat. One day I actually
just parked the car in the California sun for a couple hours and then got
underneath with a small scraper, the stuff just pealed off like soft butter.
I remove all the undercoating from both front wings in about a hour this
way.
As a side note to my previous shock absorber info when I replaced the front
shock I measured all the demensions from the originals and then looked in a
shock catalog for something with similar sizes. I was surprised to see the
the front shocks from a
Suzuki Samurai are EXACTLY the same as the 120 shocks in every way. So if
you need front shocks you can pick up a pair for a fraction of the cost that
are being asked for 120 shocks for your local parts house. I have a pair of
heavy duty gas shocks on there from Pep Boys that were on sale for $6.99
each!

From: GNKP18A@prodigy.com ( JOHN T HORNER)
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 07:57:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Old Cars vs. Safety and the Environment

– [ From: John Horner * EMC.Ver #2.10P ] –
-------- REPLY, Original message follows --------

Regardless of the pros and cons of this particular proposal, it would
probably be possible for almost all classic car owners to easily meet
current emissions requirements by converting their cars to run on
propane.
This wouldn’t cost much, would leave the car mostly original, and
provides
superb octane while it’s at it. Should this be considered a
possibility
for a tactic to avoid restrictions on classic cars?
  --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                   |  some rules must be broken.
                   |          -- Palm's Postulate

Kirby’s idea seems very reasonable to me as a compromise solution. I
have an interest in older cars and am also very concerned about the
environment (what world will my daughter be growing up in?) and have a
real concern about safety (two people I’m very close to both died in un-
avoidable auto accidents caused by other jerks on the road).

Safety is one of the reasons I’ve finally decided not to restore the
'66 Caddy presently stored in my garage. I’ve owned it since college
(when I bought it for $900) and have long planned to restore it. Now
that I have the financial resources to do so, I’m not going to because:
It has the worlds slowest stopping 4 wheel drum brakes, the steering
column is solid and will not break away in a wreck, no shoulder belts,
and a severe lack of cornering capability.

However, I also have and use a '72 Volvo 1800ES and a '67 420G (MarkX).
I’ve installed front shoulder belts in the 420G, and the Volvo already
came with “modern” three-point belts when new 24 years ago. Both cars
have four wheel disk brakes and respectable handling.

I’m not sure if anyone has ever crash tested a 420G, but I suspect it
would do ok. The main passenger compartment is an amazingly strong
unibody design due to massive sills and a massive set of fore and aft
cross braces. The front and rear sections just kind of hand from that
massive passenger compartment structure, so I bet it would crumple up
nicely whilst protecting the occupants in a head on collision. For a
side impact I’ll bet it would be as safe as our '92 Volvo.

Since we only use our old cars as entertainment/toys, Propane would be
a very interesting solution for the emissions problem. Especially in
the 420G where that monster rear boot just begs to be filled with a
tank. I wonder, however, about the safety tradeoff involved with
putting a flammable gas in the rear crush zone???

Cheers, John

From: GNKP18A@prodigy.com ( JOHN T HORNER)
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 07:57:01 EDT
Subject: Re: Old cars et al

– [ From: John Horner * EMC.Ver #2.10P ] –

From: Ryan Border \ Internet:

There is another solution to this whole problem- we just don’t like
it
very much. Increase the gas tax to reflect true costs of pollution
and
put the money towards cleaning things up. Old ratted out clunkers
will
disappear from the road- they’ll no longer be such “cheap” forms of
transport. It will become cost effective to pay a little more
attention
to car (both old AND new) maintenance to keep cars running at peak
efficiency. Collectors and restorers won’t get hit too hard… we
don’t
put that many miles on the cars anyway, and a few hundred bucks a
year in
extra fuel costs is a pretty small fraction of all the time and
money
sunk into most restoration projects.

AMEN! Nothing would improve the environment and safety more than
doubling the price of gasoline in the US. This crazy heard-like move
to poorly design, bad handling, ineffecient sport-utes would stop and
the burned out old clunkers would mostly get off the road.

Whilst at it, $5 per quart synthetic motor oil should be required -
that would hopefully discourage those jerks who drive down the road
smoking up the town with rings so far gone that the car is eating a
quart of oil per day. The long term reliability improvement from
synthetic oils would save money over the life cycle of our vehicles
through reduced repairs while at the same time reducing the pollution
which eventually results from ring wear.

Better living through selectively chosen higher taxes.

Now I duck for cover.

From: GNKP18A@prodigy.com ( JOHN T HORNER)
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 07:57:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Old Cars vs. Safety and the Environment

– [ From: John Horner * EMC.Ver #2.10P ] –

From: Braman Wing \ Internet: (bcw6@cornell.edu)

In short, I can see the theory behind crumple zones, but in
practice, it seems as if a rigid bodied car can be just as safe under
many
circumstances.

Actually what you want is a combination. The passenger compartment
needs to be amazingly strong (just like a roll cage provides your stock
car). It is the front and rear sections which need to crumple.

There is also the very real issue of relative masses. If your 5,000 lb
Land Rover hits a 2,000 Toyota Corolla, the Toyota is going to absorb
the vast majority of the impact. However, if your 4,000 lb Jaguar
crosses a 20,000 lb delivery truck, the Jag takes the energy. All
other things being equal, the more massive vehicle will be the safer
vehicle (passive safety wise).

Considering how many big trucks are on the road, I would never drive
around in a compact car. Speaking of which, my father in law was
killed two weeks ago when impacted in his Honda by a semi.

John

From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 06:38:15 MDT
Subject: Re: A (sort of) philosophical question

Kirby wrote:

All this talk about how unreliable older cars are seems to forget that when
they were new they were reliable. An older car is no more or less reliable
than a newer car. It just depends on your scheduled maintenance.

Come on, you guys don’t really believe that!

The theories of reliability are quite clear, and have been analysed to a

(much deleted here)

  --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                   |  some rules must be broken.
                   |          -- Palm's Postulate

Go ahead Kirby, be logical with us - see if we care ! I must add,
however, you are quite right. I drive my old cars because I choose
to and I quite frankly find the reliability issue to be a worthy
challenge. Your observations are well taken. But, as you point out,
the kinds of failures on older and high mileage cars will be of an
unusual nature which says to me that this type of car as daily
transportation is for either the mechanically inclined or the
wealthy. As a sole means of transportation, well, I don’t even trust
my new cars for that !

Jim Cantrell

76 XJ12C
76 XJ6C
66 ALpine 2.8L

From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 06:43:51 MDT
Subject: Re: Dry Sump

Kirby wrote:

I suppose I should have first asked the purpose. It is my impression that
dry sump systems serve three purposes:

Remove the standing oil from the crankcase so that the rotating parts
don’t slosh through it – thereby reducing drag and heat buildup.

Increase oil capacity, since you can install a BIG dry sump tank to keep
as much oil as you’d like.

To reduce the physical depth of the engine (the crankcase only needs to
clear the crank), thereby allowing lower mounting of the engine.

Does this agree with others’ understanding?

This thread actually enters my realm of experience. In racing
machines (drag/stock car etc) one of the big issues is the crankshaft
rotating at a very high RPM coming in contact with oil in the pan.
This creates a pseudo cavitation effect on the oil and makes a “foam”
of the oil (I’m talking 6000-10000 RPM). Second, the dry pump oiling
system is much more stable under high G force situations and this
ensures adequate oiling for example, during corners (yes I have seen
oil pressure go to zero in a corner with a full oil pan). IMHO, dry sump oiling for
most street machines enters the realm of “neat” but not necessary.

Best REgards,

JIm Cantrell

XJ12C
XJ6C
Alpine 2.8L

From: DHarr13177@aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 10:47:46 -0400
Subject: Porcelain on exhaust manifolds

Prairie Auto Porcelain finally refunded $100 for porcelain that quickly fell
off my manifolds.
(half what he charged me to do two E-type manifolds) Like I’m somehow half
to blame !

I’ll chalk it up to experience: if it sounds too good to be true etc. ( he
promised the porcelain never came off any previous customer’s manifolds )

Someone please try calling him on this and see if he still claims it always
stays on
Phone 507-645-5325

It took two letters from Hemmings complaint dept to get a response from him.

It is nice to know that Hemmings will try on a customer’s behalf

I’m going to use Hirsch’s high temp black paint next time unless anyone has a
better idea.

Porcelain is for the birds.

There must be a modern coating that WILL hold up and look similar

From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 12:55:54 -0400
Subject: Jaguar Integrity Plans…

Kirby Palm writes about keeping an older Jaguar on the road as a daily
driver, making an analogy with Military Aircraft Integrity Plans:
KP> …in the case of aircraft. Military jet aircraft
KP> engines are designed, maintained, and inspected to provide an
KP> extremely high level of reliability, bordering on absolute
KP> certainty.
KP> …Cars are another matter.

I’m really glad that Kirby brought up Integrity Plans for aircraft. These
now not only cover engines, but other aircraft systems such as the structure,
subsystems and software. The whole idea is to prevent the in-flight loss of
an aircraft due to an unexpected failure and to maintain mission capability
at a high level. It has been very successful and that’s why we have B-52
bombers that were built in the late 1950’s still considered as font line
combat aircraft. This really CAN be extended to cars. For a short period, I
was involved in looking at extending the approaches involved in aircraft
integrity plans to fleet management of buses. There appears to be no reason
why this cannot be done and, because of the nature of cars, it would be much
more straightforward than for aircraft (in-flight losses of cars are very
rare). The whole idea is to establish inspection and other “impending
failure warning” approaches that’ll tell you to fix something BEFORE you
experience a failure that causes your car to fail to complete a mission (like
that weekend jaunt down US 101 on a wine tour).

KP> Other folks choose to trust the owner’s manual, and perform the
KP> maintenance scheduled therein. This usually involves replacing
KP> certain parts on a schedule, and will usually result in very good
KP> reliability throughout the vehicle’s design life.

KP> Unfortunately, a vehicle’s design life is not “forever”…
KP> … Going beyond this point is exceeding design life for
KP> the vehicle in general, and you can throw the owner’s manual away;
KP> it will not tell you the shedule you need to follow to rebuild the
KP> motor, the transmission, the final drive, the brakes, the
KP> suspension, etc., etc., in order to keep the car in truly reliable
KP> condition.

Crude beginnings of integrity plans for Jaguars exist today. The manual is a
good starting point for initial inspection intervals. Unfortunately, it
doesn’t alert you that subsequent inspection intervals should be shortened
and it doesn’t alert you to the things you should be looking for in many
inspections. As a result, Kirby’s right in that you can almost throw the
owner’s manual away in developing any integrity plan that’ll keep a 30
year-old E Type on the road daily.

As a start, meticulous record keeping is a must. For example, components in
a braking system are subject to wear, corrosion, and aging. Annual
inspections of external components are a good start to keep a handle on
corrosion of braking components that go from outside-in. Corrosion of
components that go from inside-out can be slowed by periodic change of fluid.
Notice of an impending failure can be ususally found by brake fluid levels
that start dropping faster than normal. That’s one reason to perform
daily/weekly inspections of fluid levels in an older car. In addition, it’s
probably wise to treat rubber parts in the braking system as consumables that
need to be replaced periodically, at which time corrosion internal to the
braking system is revealed. Similarly, other “mission critical” rubber
components such as water hoses should be religiously replaced prior to
failures.

One important point to note is that to maintain high levels of Jaguar mission
reliability, one must correct impending problems AS SOON AS DETECTED! To
notice something wrong (like body rust in a structural member) in an
inspection & leave it is analogous to detecting a crack in an aircraft engine
part & not repairing the thing. THAT’S why you hear about things like the
old Jaguar breaking in half in an intersection. Either proper inspections
weren’t done or results weren’t acted on.

To do your own program, take the systems of the car & divide them into
“mission critical” & “nice to have.” If you follow this list for a while,
you’ll pick up most of the “mission critical” failures & symptoms. Set your
inspection intervals and techniques to expose symptoms BEFORE the failures
occur. Besides visual inspections, you’ll wind up doing things like periodic
compression checks, pressure tests, flow tests, emissions checks, and
acceleration/braking tests. Many of these can be lots of fun! If you follow
a thorough program, your “mission critical” and “in flight” failures will be
rare and even your “nice to have” stuff will work pretty well. It won’t be
the same as a NEW car (do you really want to go so far as to developing a way
to do annual inspections on your E Type carburetor floats?) but it’ll
probably be better by a long shot compared to most peoples’ three year-old
cars. Your maintenance costs will, however, be bigger than for the three
year-old car and will slowly increase per mile as your old car gets even
older. THAT’S true for aircraft as well.

As a starting point for a Jaguar, I’d halve the maintenance intervals given
in the manuals for any car older than 10 years or that’s beyond the mileage
that they list the last maintenance for (typically 60-100K miles). In
addition, I’d plan on regular replacement of rubber & other consumable items
that aren’t specified as items that need to be changed in the manual.
Finally, I’d establish a regular visual inspection program for daily,
weekly, monthly, & annual inspections. This last should include things like
making sure electrical connections & suspension components are tight & free
of corrosion. Keep records of what you observe in these inspections & write
down the numbers so you’ll notice if they change unexpectedly in a subsequent
inspection.
-Steve A.
1967 E Type
1976 XJ6C
1991 XJ40

PS: Yes, I DO work for an aircraft company! How could you tell? No, I
DON’T do all that on my E Type, but then I’m not using it as a daily driver
without backup anymore, either.

From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson )
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 10:02:08 -0700
Subject: Re: wet/Dry Sump

You wrote:

This thread actually enters my realm of experience.

Hi Jim
you may be interested to know that we are building a 4.75L
( bored out 4.2, 114mmm stroke, and 395 bhp at the flywheel )
race engine with a wet sump. We use a Weaver pattern pump and a larger
sump carrying around 4.5 gallons.

The racing team that is joining us onthis project does not recommend
the dry sump.

kind regards
tony

VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web

From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 13:46:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Description of a DRY SUMP system.

There is ONE pump a resevoir and lots of tubing and a filter and a cooler.

The oil is scavanged from the sump continualy and is fed to the “scavage
outlet” where it goes to the cooler then to the resovoir. From there it goes
back to the engine block pressure inlet. From the pressure outlet of the
pump it goes to the filter then to the block. There is only one pump
(mechanical) but it is a two stage pump. They also make tripple stage pumps
(mechanical) for double scavaging.

If the sump scavenging and the “scavenge outlet” are in fact related to one
stage and the “pressure inlet” and “pressure outlet” both refer to the other
stage, then it really is two pumps – the fact that they exist in a single
housing and driven by a single shaft is a petty detail.

When I worked at P&WA, I was involved with a classified project involving an
oil pump with one truly revolutionary feature. Although intended for jet
aircraft engines, this feature would make a common oil pump – dry or wet
sump – a whole bunch better. I suspect the classification is no longer of
importance (the Berlin wall is history, etc.) but I still wouldn’t reveal
the design of this critter without some agreements on profit sharing with a
manufacturer. Anybody know any such manufacturers that might be interested?

It is definately heavier since there are more parts and the dry sump is
usualy made with plate steel rather than the light weight sheet steel of a
wet sump because they are (in my case) just two inches from the pavement and
on occasion actualy scrape bottom on a fast transition through a dip!

Perhaps, but this wouldn’t necessarily translate to street applications. I
could envision a production street car with a dry sump and a sheet metal
pan. I suspect it would still be heavier, though; the additional plumbing,
reservoir, etc., cannot help but add weight.

  --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                   |  some rules must be broken.
                   |          -- Palm's Postulate

From: “Roger langley” lang0080@gold.tc.umn.edu
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 96 10:28:41 CST
Subject: oldies plus

I think a lot of whether to drive the oldie or not depends on the job you
have. If you have got to be there (air traffic controlers, nurses etc)
then it’s sort of daft to risk the car breaking down. If nobody cares when you show up (programmers,
middle managers) then you can risk it. To me, the big problem is to keep the rust at bay.

One point not mentioned is that each new car purchased has had a very
heavy environmental impact. For example, it takes three tons of water to make a ton
of steel. By keeping the older car in production, you are conserving
the planet’s resources.

I believe the corporate mission of British Leyland at one time was to
reduce all available iron (Fe) to oxides (Rust). This would allow the
entire planet to be magnetised and the poles would shift moving England to
a warmer climate. (How’s that for a conspiracy theory?)

Roger

Roger Langley
University of Minnesota
Vocational Education

Roger Langley
University of Minnesota
Vocational Education

From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 15:40:34 -0400
Subject: Higher Taxes, Anyone?

Increase the gas tax to reflect true costs of pollution and
put the money towards cleaning things up.

AMEN! Nothing would improve the environment and safety more than
doubling the price of gasoline in the US.

Whilst at it, $5 per quart synthetic motor oil should be required -
that would hopefully discourage those jerks who drive down the road
smoking up the town with rings so far gone that the car is eating a
quart of oil per day.

Better living through selectively chosen higher taxes.

Now I duck for cover.

You’ll get no flak from me! I have always felt that our gasoline taxes
should be higher, although I state the reasons differently. The most
economical and pollution-free mode of travel is mass-transit, and by a long
shot. However, our use of personal automobiles is heavily subsidized by the
government in the US, using my tax dollars. Those who choose to use
personal cars pay for their own vehicles and fuel, but the roads required –
clearly the vast majority of the cost of the system – is paid for by the
taxpayers, whether they use mass-transit systems or not. As a result,
personal automobiles are one of the cheapest modes of transportation
available to the citizen.

If I were in charge, the building and maintenance of our system of roads in
this country would come SOLELY from motor vehicle fuel taxes, thereby making
the user pay for the system. Those who choose mass transit, or bicycles, or
not to travel at all don’t have to pay for what they’re not using. And
since this would put personal automobiles on a more level playing field with
mass transit systems, such mass transit systems will become more popular and
able to survive without government subsidies of their own.

Even worse, our government recognizes the problems that it has caused, and
comes up with totally misguided solutions. It established the Corporate
Average Fuel Economy (CAFE) to force automakers to make cars nobody wanted
in large numbers. It now wants a certain percentage of cars to be
zero-emission vehicles. And, it threatens to ban older vehicles entirely.
How much easier would it be to merely establish a proper tax policy to force
users to pay for what they use, and let the economy solve the problems?

I’ll admit, the proposal to require synthetic oil is a new idea to me. Not
bad, though – I’ll have to think about it. The first problem I can see is
companies making really cheap synthetic oil to get around the requirement; I
suppose the regulation would have to be carefully worded to prevent this.

How about this: a tax of a couple dollars per quart on engine oil,
regardless of type? This would make the synthetic oil cost only twice what
normal oil costs rather than the present 4x, and therefore be more
attractive – especially since you can supposedly leave it in twice as long.
It would also encourage the use of on-board oil purification systems,
presently available but rarely considered worthwhile, which could lengthen
oil change intervals considerably.

  --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                   |  some rules must be broken.
                   |          -- Palm's Postulate

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #51

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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 22 April 1996 Volume 02 : Number 052

From: TezFair@aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 15:44:38 -0400
Subject: XK8 screen saver and updated home page

Hi all,
If you haven’t already got it, my new home page
(News, Politics, Sports, Mail & Latest Headlines - AOL.com) now contains the XK8 screensaver -
and its quite good. I have been busy learning how to use html so this page is
a first attempt, if there any faults or the pictures don’t appear please let
me know.

Nick, now that I have started doing a ‘proper’ web page and using it for
general Jag related stuff ie pics and files etc, could you insert my page on
your site as a link?

As for the debate about the XK8’s Niches, yes the car will be auto only, but
the auto will be like nothing you have ever dreamed of, it ‘talks’ to the
engine so that the driver will never feel the car change gear. This box also
has a sporty manual shift selector thats just as good as a real manual box.
Consider this, I fitted the propshaft to the XJS and since Xmas I only fitted
2 manual propshafts in 1700 cars. So where is the market for manuals?

As for backseats, The S was a real 2 seater for many years, and it wasn’t
until 1991MY and the last major face lift that it became a 2+2.

Terry Fairbrother

From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 18:17:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Clunkers, zero-emissions

Eric Henning writes:

EH> Zero emission cars are not required to use batteries, just put out
EH> zero emissions. Present practical technology dictates that battries
EH> be used.

I don’t believe that this is correct. Zero emission cars CAN be built today
using either Hydrogen fuel cells or using fossil fuels. Political mumbo
jumbo is, in some cases, precluding solutions OTHER than batteries. Even a
diesel running at constant load as a generator for an electric vehicle can be
zero emissions but a politician endorsing a diesel as a zero emission vehicle
is committing political suicide. Except for the CO2 & H2O byproducts,
virtually everything else can be captured. It is the need for constant
acceleration and deceleration that makes today’s cars impractical for
zero-emission operation. Battery-powered cars have a TERRIBLE handicap
compared to gasoline-powered cars in that even the best batteries store far
fewer BTUs per lb of storage medium than gasoline or ethanol and they are
slow to charge if discharged. That’ll still be the case 30 years from now.
I’ve seen zero emission cars (and tanks!) running off stuff like gasoline,
diesel, and LPG. The setup that seems attractive is a small, fossil-fueled
generator capable of steady-state energy sufficient to power cruise speeds,
battery or flywheel storage to provide acceleration, and an electric motor to
drive the thing. Those I’ve seen generally have dynamite acceleration &
great efficiency. Think about it & what’s the horsepower requirement for an
XJS cruising at 70? Pretty small generator. Unfortunately, we’ll be stuck
with battery monsters instead…
-Steve A.

From: “J.W. Beckmeyer” 73131.3076@compuserve.com
Date: 21 Apr 96 19:08:34 EDT
Subject: ZERO JAG CONTENT-Pollution & user taxes

I have no intention of tying up bandwidth debating various economic theories,
except to say this once to those of my friends on this list who advocate user
taxes to solve________(insert favorite problem here):

Bulls*it. Go find a nice unbiased text covering elementary economics. Pay
particular attention to the the chapters covering failed economic concepts.

Best regards,
Jim Beckmeyer Union CIty, MI USA
e-mail: 73131.3076@compuserve.com
90 Jaguar XJ-40-Sovereign
60 Jaguar MK II

From: scikom@ibm.net (zafar)
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 00:25:59 GMT
Subject: XK Chassis Number

Dear John,

As I promised to you on my visit in Sydney, I will find out the chassis
numbers of XK’s in Indonesia.
Last night I met the owner of the XK 140 Roadster (one of the 76 RHD made).
He said he remember the chassis number of his car by heart and it is S
800051. He still got the ID plate which shows the chassis, engine and
transmission numbers but he could not found the body number.
I hope you can confirm whether this chassis number is correct and let me
know where the car was originally sold to.
It took much longer to find out the XK chassis numbers than I expected, but
I will keep you posted on the results as soon as I got them.

Best regards

Zafa D. Idham

From: Tom Golodik tgolodik@cybernex.net
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 22:34:26 -0400
Subject: Re: ZERO JAG CONTENT-Pollution & user taxes

Go find a nice unbiased text covering elementary economics. Pay
particular attention to the the chapters covering failed economic
concepts.

While you’re in that unbiased text, look up externalities/spillovers,
then tell me if pollution–any pollution–doesn’t fit into that
definition nicely.

Tom Golodik

From: BMack7316@aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 22:56:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Re: A (sort of) philosophical question

In Digest #49, Jan Wikstroem wrote:

Before I got the Jag, travelling to and from work used to be a drag; now
it’s
the high point(s) of my day…

Also an excellent reason to schedule appointments with phantom clients!

Ed Friege also wrote:

The pride of ownership and the continual thumbs up from admirers and
on lookers far outweighs all the minor incoveniences that you encounter

EXACTLY!!!

Any Jaguar can be driven daily with pride, but only if maintained with equal
pride!

Later…
Brad Mack

From: BMack7316@aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 22:56:56 -0400
Subject: 7" Headlamp Conversion

Long plane trips allow me to catch up on some of the more important things in
life – like my Jag-lovers email!

At your convienience, please provide me with a quote for the necessary parts.

Gracias, Amigo
Brad Mack
85 SIII
85 XJS
92 Japanese Utility Vehicle

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 21:18:09 -0500
Subject: The XJ6 Book

Ok, I started putting this thing together and I have the following requests:

I have just finished reading the first 20 (volume#1 1-20) digests and
find that there needs to be a change in our habits. Please, Please, when
you referance a problem, referance the model of car! There are several
posts that refer to things that sound usefull, but I have no idea what model
car it is for.
If anyone can send me a list of the years, series, and engine types of
the XJ6 production I would be very greatfull
I would like to hear from you (off the list if possible) if you have
“improved” your XJ6. If we keep it off the list we can avoid some of the
bickering from the “purist” vs “improvist” crowd.
Hell, my Azlhiemers is clicking in, I forgot what the fourth request
was. I hope I finish the book before I forget I am writing it.

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 23:24:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Clunkers, zero-emissions

I don’t believe that this is correct. Zero emission cars CAN be built today
using either Hydrogen fuel cells or using fossil fuels.

Obviously, it’s gonna depend on your definition of “zero emissions”. Many
tree-huggers define it as a vehicle with no tailpipe or vent whatsoever.

A more reasonable approach would be to list pollutants, and define it as
emitting zero on all of them. You’re still gonna get arguments, because
scientists are constantly learning that previously-considered-harmless
substances are suddenly Public Enemy #1, so some people are gonna insist on
absolute zero of dangerous or innocuous substances alike.

Even using this more lenient definition, I seriously doubt you’re gonna get
any thermal engine (any engine that burns fuel and generates heat to
operate) to meet the definition of zero emissions. One of the pollutants
that tree-huggers are concerned about is oxides of nitrogen, which are
created whenever air is heated. The hotter the worse, which is the reason
cars have EGR systems; they keep the combustion temps down, reducing the NO
production. But I don’t think you can get to zero with such methods.

  --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                   |  some rules must be broken.
                   |          -- Palm's Postulate

From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 23:24:48 -0400
Subject: Re: ZERO JAG CONTENT-Pollution & user taxes

Bulls*it. Go find a nice unbiased text covering elementary economics. Pay
particular attention to the the chapters covering failed economic concepts.

I’ve got a better idea: Look at Europe. Look at Japan. Look at several
other places that have significant taxes on motor fuels. Then, look at the
US. Just who’s economic theories are failing?

  --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                   |  some rules must be broken.
                   |          -- Palm's Postulate

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 15:09:37 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: A new car !

Hello,

it seems I have a new car since I got my final drive unit fixed. Since I
bought it I had a noisy drive train. Finally I got it fixed last week and
I am really amazaed what a silk power glider my car is !

I brought the car from Paris to the Southern part of England to the small
business of Paul Taylor in Maidsstone/Kent. He advertizes in the JEC
magazine mainly for AC repair, but he does also all other repairs on
Jaguar.

Since there was some discussion about the prices to fix final drives
recently here is what I paid :

Removing final drive from car
Final drive overhaul (replacement of pinion bearings/oil seal)
Installation of new disks, pads, handbrake pads and handbrake overhaul
Adjustement of one rear wheel bearing
Reinstallation

for 765 pounds (no VAT required) which is about $ 1200 I think. I found this a
very reasonable price, even travel to the UK etc included.

I got the address from this list (Thanks Paul Beard !) and I can only
recommend this workshop.

A question to Kirby or Michael concerning the failed bearing : It was
the pinion outer bearing and the bearing rollers have little scares and the
top of the bearing had changed colors like it had got VERY hot.
Is this a problem of a bearing having too much or to less pre-load ? Paul
thinks the setting got messed up when the PO had tried to change the
leaking pinion oil-seal.

Since Paul also has a XJ-S (pre HE manual) I also gave him a copy of Kirby’s
booklet and he was very happy about this.

One thing he is looking for and he asked me if I could forward the question
to the group is the following : He is repairing aux air valves and it
some cases the thermostat is actually broken. Does anyone have a source
for this ?

Now a really happy Jag owner

- Matthias

From: Are Lorentsen are@vinn.no
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 96 16:24:00 PDT
Subject: RE: Higher Taxes, Anyone?

From: jag-lovers-owner
To: jag-lovers
Subject: Higher Taxes, Anyone?
Date: 21. April 1996 15:40

Among other things, Kirby wrote:

How much easier would it be to merely establish a proper tax policy to
force
users to pay for what they use, and let the economy solve the problems?

In Norway this is fulfilled on both gasoline and cars, making
us one of the (or the) most expensive countries to buy and
drive a car in. Unleaded gasoline costs USD 1,30 , and cars are
heavily taxed for horsepower, engine size and weight. Jaguar
XJ6 3,2(the cheapest one) costs USD 130.000 . The last XJS
coupe; USD 175.000 and to compare with, BMW 318i would cost USD
38.000. An industrial worker income is around USD 30.000.

It is really hard to be best in class, especially knowing
that Norway stands for only 0,2% of total CO2 emission in the
world!

regards
Are Lorentsen
Narvik, Norway
E-mail: are@vinn.no

From: Tom Walker Tjwal@cris.com
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 10:56:44 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: power steering

Ok folks, this might be a silly question but…

Owners manual for my 82 XJS HE says to use Type “G” tranny fluid for the
power steering. A quick look at the local auto parts store, and no Type “G”
to be found.

Soooo, is it OK to use the newer type rated fluids??? and what about mixing
types of fluid with the fluid that hasn’t spewed forth from the power
steering system.

Appreciate your thoughts
Tom Walker
Tjwal@concentric.net

From: LLoyd 3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@cmsa.berkeley.edu
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 96 08:01:22 PDT
Subject: Re: 1985 XJ6

“I found the fenders. they came with a car.” Should get a responce like;
“Yes Dear, I found this new purse. It came with this Mink coat.”

LLoyd

From: LLoyd 3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@cmsa.berkeley.edu
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 96 08:04:09 PDT
Subject: xj*

I gotta agree with Kirby on this. This beautiful new xk8 with an automatic
tranny defeats the purpose of a sports car.
Can you imagine someone ordering a big Caddilac limo. with all the access-
ories, a wet bar, TV etc, then having a 5-speed put in it? It defeats the
purpose of the car.

LLoyd

From: kboetzer@auspex.com (Ken Boetzer)
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 08:16:54 -0700
Subject: Re: Dry Sump

Not writen by Kirbert.

I’ve always thought one of the inherent advantages of the dry sump is
that the engine lubricating system could be fully pressurized before you
attempted to start the car since dry sumps usually utilize an external
electrical pump.

I’ve never heard of or seen an electrically driven oil system.

I always expected there would actually be TWO pumps: one high-volume,
low-pressure unit to scavenge the oil from the crankcase and send it into
the external oil tank, plus one high-pressure pump to provide lubricating
oil to the engine.

Right. On most production types the pump is intenal to the engine, (Porsche),
on add on Race engines for fromula/sports racing types the pump is often
driven externally via gilmer or other toothed belt type drive.

snip electric pump talk.

I also fail to see why a dry sump system would be necessary to achieve this
benefit. Couldn’t an electric supplemental pump be installed in a
conventional wet-sump oil system?

sometimes a hydraulic accumulator is hooked in to the oil pressure system with
a solinoid valve to open and close at the appropriate times. Much simpler and
uses less electrical power.

  --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                   |  some rules must be broken.
                   |          -- Palm's Postulate

Cheers,

Ken Boetzer

From: elgparts@xnet.com (Dennis Murphy)
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 11:22:06 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Old Cars vs. Safety and the Environment

Propane would be a very interesting solution for the emissions problem.
Especially in the 420G where that monster rear boot just begs to be filled
with >a tank. I wonder, however, about the safety tradeoff involved with
putting a flammable gas in the rear crush zone???

John,

Don’t worry about it. I recently saw a video put out by the CNG folks ( a
much better alternative than propane) on tank safety. You cannot make one of
those suckers explode no matter what you do. One of the tests involved older
cars with CNG conversions and the tanks in the trunk. They lifted them with
a crane (hooked to the front) and dropped them on the rear bumper from 50+
feet - no explosion, no leaks.

Dennis Murphy
Geneva, IL
1952 XK 120
1990 XJ-S

From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 11:42:27 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: A (sort of) philosophical question

On Fri, 19 Apr 1996, ALEX H. LINDSAY wrote:

Something I forgot to mention in my last contribution (?) to this thread:
observing the tribulations of local Jag enthusiasts who take their cars out
for
the occasional Sunday drive and suffer terrible reliability, and contrasting
this with the way my own cars worked better and better in daily use,
    I have to agree. In my years as a marine mechanic, I found that
boats that only got infrequent, casual use generally had the most problems
while those that were used regularly and to their full capability had few
problems (as long as they were well maintained).

Absolutely!!! Regular operation is the best thing for any machine in
good shape–whether it’s a model railroad locomotive, a boat, a lawn
mower, or a fine automobile. Machines are designed to run.

Larry Lee

From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 12:09:55 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Old cars et al

On Fri, 19 Apr 1996, Ryan Border wrote:

My $0.02 on: Safety, crumple zones, old cars, etc…

There is another solution to this whole problem- we just don’t like it
very much. Increase the gas tax to reflect true costs of pollution and
put the money towards cleaning things up.

One more time!!! The main reason (IMHO the ONLY reason) for taxes is to
raise the money necessary to operate government–NOT to micro-manage
every citizen’s life. While I am in total agreement that the true cost
of any endeavor–and transportation is a glaring example here–should be
borne by the practitioners or users of that endeavor, trying to cover
those costs through taxation only obfuscates the true and total cost.
To be truly effective, the total cost should be reflected in the price
that consumers see and pay. Only then can they make informed economic
decisions. Including part of the cost of anything in a tax masks that
and robs the consumer of vital information. Then some government type
steps in to say, “Trust me. I’ll handle it for you. Just don’t ask
questions.”

Good law should state the results desired rather than simply create
another way to funnel additional funds to lawmakers and bureaucrats who
will squander it away trying to develop biased regulations. Need an
example? Just look how well they’ve done with the Superfund money. Does
anybody even know how much has been spent, or what it bought?

Larry Lee

From: tony goodall tony@goodall.u-net.com
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 18:47:52 +0100
Subject: Re: no horn

At 16:41 19/04/96 +0100, Jim Isbell wrote:

No horn? . In places I’ve lived, like Sicily, it would be disasterous. The
Sicialian drivers would all of a sudden find themselves with one hand that
had nothing to do.

I thought they had the horn wired to electrical patches on their skin,
to enable automatic horn blowing when stress levels went above 10%!

cheers
tony

Dr. A. Goodall       http://www.u-net.com/~goodall/

From: tony goodall tony@goodall.u-net.com
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 18:47:58 +0100
Subject: Re: Dry Sump

At 21:44 20/04/96 +0100, Juliansean@aol.com wrote:

A friend of mine who races told me about a system available to deliver
pressure to the oil system prior to starting the engine. He said they are
usually air cylinder systems which are discharged by an electrical switch to
pump some oil just before cranking. The air reservoir is then
re-presssurized after the engine is running.
I think these are used for long life marine diesel engines too.
Sorry no other details.
I would definately be interested in such a system if I rebuild my engine.
Julian Mullaney

I was told by an engineer who used to design BIG marine diesel engines,
that they do pressurise in advance. With electric pumps, I think!

tony

Dr. A. Goodall       http://www.u-net.com/~goodall/

From: tony goodall tony@goodall.u-net.com
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 18:47:56 +0100
Subject: Re: Old Cars and safety

At 15:07 20/04/96 +0100, Braman Wing wrote:

Okay, I stand corrected. Perhaps it’s just the mental sense of security
that I get from driving a tank that makes me prefer a Land Rover or a MkX
to a smaller newer car. Regards,

be careful - at high speed, Landrovers and rangerovers can be worse-
they are more unstable (high centre of gravity), and
if they turn over, and finish-up on one side, and then a car hits the roof,
you will be crushed, the chassis is not going to protect you then.
I think that, to lower the centre of gravity, the weight in the roof is lower
than you think. My friend in a SWB LR thinks he is safe, but really,
only the chassis is strong!

cheers
tony

Dr. A. Goodall       http://www.u-net.com/~goodall/

From: tony goodall tony@goodall.u-net.com
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 18:47:51 +0100
Subject: Re: Old cars et al

At 19:25 19/04/96 +0100, Ryan Border wrote:

My $0.02 on: Safety, crumple zones, old cars, etc…

Maximum saftey is probably a late model (designed to
crumple) large car (Like a late model XJ6).

correct, see my WWW pages

There is another solution to this whole problem- we just don’t like it
very much. Increase the gas tax to reflect true costs of pollution and
put the money towards cleaning things up. Old ratted out clunkers will
disappear from the road- they’ll no longer be such “cheap” forms of
transport. It will become cost effective to pay a little more attention to
car (both old AND new) maintenance to keep cars running at peak efficiency.
Collectors and restorers won’t get hit too hard… we don’t put that many
miles on the cars anyway, and a few hundred bucks a year in extra
fuel costs is a pretty small fraction of all the time and money sunk into
most restoration projects.

we pay 300% tax on petrol in the UK, but I see old bangers chucking out smoke
every day, but only about 1/10 of the number before the yearly test required
low emissions. It also means everyone here is obsessed with fuel consumption
above all other factors.

Conclusion - to reduce emissions, either:
give new cars away free
or make tested legal emissions levels lower

cheers
tony

Dr. A. Goodall       http://www.u-net.com/~goodall/

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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 22 April 1996 Volume 02 : Number 053

From: tony goodall tony@goodall.u-net.com
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 18:47:49 +0100
Subject: Re: Old Cars vs. Safety and the Environment

At 17:27 18/04/96 +0100, Braman Colton Wing wrote:

in regards to safety, it seems as if there are two schools of thought.
Modern cars are designed to crumple, with the car absorbing the kinetic
energy and protecting the driver. With older cars, the object being hit
absorbs the energy, which is fine until you hit a really solid wall or
something. I realize that with airbags, crumple zones, etc. modern cars
are theoretically safer, but I think that as long as you’re strapped in
securely, a really solid older car can be just as safe. All you have to do
is look at a stock car. They are built with a roll cage
designed to prevent any crumpling at all, and yet drivers routinely hit the
wall at 150+mph and walk away. I think the secret is to have a driver
restraint that keeps you from hitting the windshield, dash, etc.

THe info I got was that:
(for direct crash at 90 degrees into a solid wall)

as a child, your body can stand impact “inside a cage” up to 50mph
in terms of instant deceleration
above that, internal injuries increase

as a 30 year old, impact at 50mph is about 50-50 lethal
(imagine a post hitting your chest at 50 mph!!)

as a 70-year old, the speed is much lower

Crumple zones can increase these speeds by (I think) about 10 mph,
but not much more than that without a 30-foot crumply-bonnet!
6-point seat belts can increase them too (I think)

at higher speed crashes, people who are uninjured
have been deflected, and the shock of deceleration is spread out
over more time (remember the guy with no parachute who had no
injuries after falling from 20000 feet?, after terminal velocity is reached
(about 120mph??), he stopped accelerating. Then he hit the side of a
fir tree, then a snowdrift. he walked away!

This is why motorbikes can be safer sometimes - if you leap clear,
then skid down the road, you decelerate gradually. Trouble is getting out
of the way of other traffic after you stop!!!

Anyway - crumple zones are a little better. It’s how you
crash that matters. I hit a church at 40mph, and lived but I regret it now.
I should have just kept the straight line, and hit the guy who jumped
the red light!

anyway the jag is the safest car on UK roads. see my WWW pages.
if someone with crumple zones hits you , you share the benefits anyway!

cheers
tony

Dr. A. Goodall       http://www.u-net.com/~goodall/

From: William F Trimble trimbwf@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 12:55:19 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: XJ6 ECU bad–I think (fwd)

Dear Jag-Lovers:
I’ve been struggling with bad running problems with my 85 XJ6 for
the last six weeks or so. The car runs rich, fouling the plugs
within a couple of miles. Cold idles is all right, then sometimes it
drops quickly off cold idle and runs badly. Through various diagnostic
procedures, we eliminated the ignition side. The coil is OK, the amplifier is OK, and
the pickup module is OK. Oil filler cap was tight, too.
So, over to the fuel side. The air flow meter was next to new, but we
changed it out for the old one I had. That made no difference. We
thought we might have had a fuel flow problem, so we disconnected the
return lines. The car ran fine for a while, then began to run rich
again. The airflow meter is next to brand new, but we swapped if for
the old one I have. No change. Then we thought it might be a carbon
cannister blockage. Bypassed that, checked the valves, and the car ran
again–for a couple of days, then started to run rich again. Replaced
the carbon cannister and the fuel return valves. No change. Car ran
badly. Swapped the O2 sensor. The one that was in it was about a year
old, but we changed it just to see what happened. Nothing changed.
Pulled the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator. That made no
difference, other than inhibiting acceleration. Fuel pump seemed noisy,
so replaced it, too. That made no difference, either.
We were pretty sure that we had done everything else we could do,
so we decided to look at the ECU. We disconnected it, crimped and
cleaned female connectors, cleaned male connectors, tapped the ECU and put
it back in. Car ran fine for two days, then back to rich running and
plug fouling. Barely got the car out of the driveway. Repeated the
above–removed ECU, tapped on it, and put it back in. Car ran fine. In
fact it ran all day Saturday and all day Sunday, and got me to work
today. It does, however, have a hot start problem that it did not have
before. It will crank forever on the first try, then fire almost
immediately on the second.
OK. We (Rick the mechanic, Larry Lee, me, and my dog) give up.
Anybody have any ideas? Has anybody had intermittent ECU failures? Is
there something wrong with the connector to the ECU? How can you know if
there’s a problem with the connector?
I did change the thermostat before all this developed. This
involved taking off the coolant rail, and moving some of the injection
harness out of the way. In the process of hooking things back up, I did
not connect a ground, and the car would not start. After connecting the
ground, the car ran fine for at least a couple of weeks. Could cranking
the car with that ground disconnected cause problems with the ECU?
Any advice, help, experience would be greatly appreciated.

Bill Trimble
Auburn, Alabama

From: “Norm deCarteret (813-878-3798)” nsdec@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 96 14:11:02 EDT
Subject: Series II E-type fuel problem

My roadster hasn’t been on the road since Sept. and the symptom is fuel.
It starts and runs on ether, but fuel’s not being delivered. I saw a
terrific post awhile ago that the XJ6’s fuel pump being the same as a
Vega’s (I think). Assuming my problem is the E’s pump, there wouldn’t be
any alternative for full freight would there? I didn’t think so

And: nice picture on the Series I roadster at the Museum of Art in today’s
NY Times, but Muschamp terms it “flashy” and “the blatantly phallic
XK-E came close to earning its makers an X rating” as well as “no matter
what hue, the E-type was more than a little off-color”. “Looking at the
car, you can almost begin to sympathize with cultural reactionaries who
feel that the 60s ruined everything. The decade’s sexual frankness
certainly spoiled much of the pleasure it must have once given people
to drive a car like the XK-E. WIthout repression to keep the laughter
in check, the car becomes something of a dirty joke”.

Personally, where an emotional response is appropriate as in, say, admiring
or doing something exceptional, thinking too much is just plain dumb
Norm

From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 17:49:48 +0000
Subject: Re: Higher Taxes, Anyone?

[ Are Lorentsen are@vinn.no ]
|
| In Norway this is fulfilled on both gasoline and cars, making
| us one of the (or the) most expensive countries to buy and
| drive a car in. Unleaded gasoline costs USD 1,30

Per litre. The 98 octane the Beast likes to gulp down
at an astonishing rate is 1.50 dollar a litre. That
works out to 5.25 dollars per US Gallon, or 4 pounds
per UK Gallon.

Now, why do so few people live in Norway?

Nick

<<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>>
<<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>>

The JagWeb http://www.sn.no/�ick/jaguar.html <<<

From: “John J. Lynch” pdi@cnj.digex.net
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 96 14:29:21 PDT
Subject: 89 XJS V-12 Alarm System and Door Locks

I’m trying to troubleshoot the latest electrical problem with my '89 XJ-S and could use some help. My keyless entry/alarm system is on the blink. The remote unit seems to be transmitting (as evidenced by the red LED on the steering column) but neither the door locks nor the alarm activate. (The panic alarm does work, however.)

Question:

Where is the keyless entry (radio) receiver unit located? (None of my factory manuals make mention of it)
How does the keyless entry/alarm receiver unit trigger the door and trunk solenoids.

Thanks
John J. Lynch
1989 XJ-S V-12
pdi@cnj.digex.net

From: “John J. Lynch” pdi@cnj.digex.net
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 96 14:54:51 PDT
Subject: 89 XJ-S V-12 Battery drain problem

Jag-Lovers,

Here’s some info for the group concerning a problem I fixed on my 1989 XJ-S V-12. Several times this winter I got into my car only to find that my new battery died overnight. Unable to locate any obvious accessories left on or any unusual current drains, I wrote off the problem as just another Lucas gremlin. Several weeks ago the occasional problem turned into an everyday affair. Unable to devote any time to locating the problem I resorted to pulling the ground lug off the battery after using the car. (Pain in the ass but it worked.) When the weather in New Jersey broke a few weeks ago I got out the old ohm meter and went out to work to locate the problem. Turns out my power antenna was the culprit. It was draining about 2.3 amps after the power was off. Although I haven’t opened up the thing to determine exactly why, I think it’s safe to assume that the contact signaling the relay that the antenna is fully retracted isn’t working.

John J. Lynch
1989 XJ-S V-12
pdi@cnj.digex.net

From: bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman Wing)
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 15:16:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Clunkers, zero-emissions

I may be totally off base here, but I heard somewhere that electric motors
produce ozone, which is a bad thing to have in the troposphere. Does anyone
know if it is produced in any measureable quantity? If it is, it seems as
if some aspects of air quality in cities would not be improved by switching
to “zero emmision” vehicles. Ozone is already a problem in some places.

                                                   regards,

                                                    Braman

From: Bill_Clark_at_PO__ACCT@ccmail.rsco.com
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 96 13:05:20 PST
Subject: CarTalk…

 Nick...
 
 I believe the CarTalk guys have a web site under  ??? @cartalk.com 
 
 
 Sorry can't be more specific, but it's a relatively new site, and... 
 and I'm playing catch-up from a 10 day vacation and don't recall where 
 I read it.

From: “Tracy A. Ferrell” tracy@brooktree.com
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 13:17:53 -0700
Subject: XJ6 ECU bad–I think (fwd)

Bill Trimble wrote that he’s having intermittent rich operation and
described how his troubleshooting has led him to the ECU. While I think he’s
probably on the right track, there’s a remote possibility that he’s
experiencing the same problem I had with my '84 XJ6.

Like Bill, my car would start running very rich and rough (billowing clouds
of black smoke). I tried everything and occasionally it appeared that it was
fixed. And then a couple of days later, the same thing. I finally put a
pressure gauge on the fuel rail. At this particular time the car was running
sort of OK and I just wanted to see if the fuel really went up about 10 lbs.
when you pull the vacuum line off the pressure regulator, like the book says.

I was getting a nominal reading (I think it was in the neighborhood of 34
lbs). When I pulled the vacuum line off, the pressure did go up by about 10
psi for a few seconds and then WAM!, it pegged my 100 psi gauge and was
running foul. I replaced the pressure regulator and haven’t had a problem since.

The other possibility I can think of is that the cold start injector is
faulty. You’ll get into trouble on this list if you suggest that the cold
start circuitry might be causing the problem, but a bad cold start injector
itself (like maybe it’s stuck open) is a possibility.

Cheers,

Tracy A. Ferrell tracy@brooktree.com
tracy@cts.com

     in Sunny, Gloriously Beautiful San Diego, CA, USA

From: kboetzer@auspex.com (Ken Boetzer)
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 13:25:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Old cars et al

On Fri, 19 Apr 1996, Ryan Border wrote:

My $0.02 on: Safety, crumple zones, old cars, etc…

There is another solution to this whole problem- we just don’t like it
very much. Increase the gas tax to reflect true costs of pollution and
put the money towards cleaning things up.

One more time!!! The main reason (IMHO the ONLY reason) for taxes is to
raise the money necessary to operate government–NOT to micro-manage
every citizen’s life. While I am in total agreement that the true cost
of any endeavor–and transportation is a glaring example here–should be
borne by the practitioners or users of that endeavor, trying to cover
those costs through taxation only obfuscates the true and total cost.

This is why the gas tax is perfect for this. Drive more pay more. This doesn’t
seem terribly obfuscated to me. Drive a heavy gass guzzler pay more. Drive
a small fuel efficient car pay less.

To be truly effective, the total cost should be reflected in the price
that consumers see and pay. Only then can they make informed economic
decisions. Including part of the cost of anything in a tax masks that
and robs the consumer of vital information.

See above.

Then some government type

steps in to say, “Trust me. I’ll handle it for you. Just don’t ask
questions.”

Since I can’t build the raod myself I guess I’ll have to count on someone to
take care of it. I’m not real enthusiastic about toll roads everywhere. That
would be an alternative to govt doing it. Forming transportation associations
might work, but I don’t think so. I notice the usual complaning here and of
course the usual lack of alternative propositions. Of course we could form a
militia and march around alot.

Good law should state the results desired rather than simply create
another way to funnel additional funds to lawmakers and bureaucrats who
will squander it away trying to develop biased regulations. Need an
example? Just look how well they’ve done with the Superfund money. Does
anybody even know how much has been spent, or what it bought?

Facinating observation but not really part of the issue at hand.

Larry Lee

Bitching and moaning, along with sweeping generalities is the easy part. I’m
trying to teach my kids that. My 14 year old is coming along quite well. The 10
year old needs work.

Ken

From: LLoyd 3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@cmsa.berkeley.edu
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 96 13:41:41 PDT
Subject: 3.8S automatic

A friend has a 3.8S w/automatic tranny that is starting to fail. It’s a
Borg/Warner 3-band. Can he get parts for this tranny, or does he need to
replace it with a different type? Cost? Wher can he get one? This is worst
case, it goes into the shop tomorrow.

LLoyd

From: kboetzer@auspex.com (Ken Boetzer)
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 13:53:00 -0700
Subject: Re: Dry Sump

From jag-lovers-owner@sn.no Mon Apr 22 13:43:39 1996
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At 21:44 20/04/96 +0100, Juliansean@aol.com wrote:

A friend of mine who races told me about a system available to deliver
pressure to the oil system prior to starting the engine. He said they are
usually air cylinder systems which are discharged by an electrical switch to
pump some oil just before cranking. The air reservoir is then
re-presssurized after the engine is running.
I think these are used for long life marine diesel engines too.
Sorry no other details.
I would definately be interested in such a system if I rebuild my engine.
Julian Mullaney

I was told by an engineer who used to design BIG marine diesel engines,
that they do pressurise in advance. With electric pumps, I think!

tony
Dr. A. Goodall       http://www.u-net.com/~goodall/

For big (really BIG, as in locomotive, tugboat, etc) they can extend life
considerably. For normal automotive they have primarily “brag value”. Imho
the gain will be difficult to measure. As to rebuilds just prime the system
with a drill motor or spin the engine without the plugs, and go on your merry
way.

Ken

P.S.

For racers they provide constant pressure while the pickup may be in air during
hard turns while the oil sloshes to the side of the pan.

From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 17:13:04 -0400
Subject: Safety

THe info I got was that:
(for direct crash at 90 degrees into a solid wall)

as a child, your body can stand impact “inside a cage” up to 50mph
in terms of instant deceleration
above that, internal injuries increase

as a 30 year old, impact at 50mph is about 50-50 lethal
(imagine a post hitting your chest at 50 mph!!)

as a 70-year old, the speed is much lower

All of this is actually irrational data – probably due to
oversimplification, which scientists often do when dealing with the masses.
The problem is G-loads, which have nothing to do with a post hitting your
chest at 50 mph. Nobody, regardless of age, could survive “instant
deceleration”, since that implies infinite G’s. The actual survivable limit
for G’s depends on the duration, position, and a couple other factors. Age
is most certainly a player; we all know children are made of rubber!

All cars, even tanks, will take some finite amount of time to decelerate;
“instant deceleration” also implies infinite forces, which cannot actually
occur in the real world. Even if the vehicle involved and the struck object
suffer no permanent damage in an impact, there was still elastic deformation
of the vehicle and the object it hit, resulting in the actual deceleration
taking some distance – and hence some time – and hence some finite G’s
were generated.

The G’s imposed on the “pink squishy things” has to do with how much
distance THEY take to stop. This involves the deformation (elastic or
plastic) of the object being hit, the deformation of the front end of the
vehicle, the deformation of the chassis between the front end and the
harness mounts, and the stretch of the belts themselves. There’s even some
variation WITHIN the pink squishy things, in that some parts are subjected
to higher G’s than other parts.

Crumple zones can increase these speeds by (I think) about 10 mph,
but not much more than that without a 30-foot crumply-bonnet!

Crumple zones can ALWAYS be used to reduce G’s of impacts, regardless of
speeds or the available nose length. The problem is that G’s must be
reduced to a certain level or nothing is accomplished. Given the typical
automobile dimensions and the practical limits for human survivability, the
30 mph test the US gov’t uses is about right.

Lemme give an example: If you hit a wall at 30 mph in a car with crumple
zones designed for such an impact, the bodies inside will decelerate at some
nearly-constant G force until stopped – and the car will be totalled, but
presumably human beings may have survived. If you hit the same wall with a
rigid older car, the bodies inside will decelerate at some nearly-constant G
force, but a much higher one than the first example – and the humans will
probably die. If you take the first car into the wall at 60 mph, they
bodies inside will stop with a notably NON-constant G force; for the first
couple of feet, they will experience the same G force as in the 30 mph
crash, then they will be subjected to a much, much higher G-force when the
crumple zone is exceeded and the bodies hit the wall directly! At 60 mph in
the rigid older car, the bodies are again subjected to higher G’s upon
initial impact, but this will do a better job of stopping them than before,
and the final max-G impact – when the nose of even this tank is crushed –
may be lessened significantly or even eliminated. But if the occupants are
killed by the initial G’s, who cares?

6-point seat belts can increase them too (I think)

The better the restraint system, the better the G’s are distributed
throughout the body. 6-point belts are better than a lap belt and shoulder
strap, and a properly-working air bag is better yet. But none of these can
totally eliminate the G-loading problem, they can only optimize one’s chances.

at higher speed crashes, people who are uninjured
have been deflected, and the shock of deceleration is spread out
over more time

Correct. This reduces the G’s by a whole bunch.

This is why motorbikes can be safer sometimes - if you leap clear,
then skid down the road, you decelerate gradually. Trouble is getting out
of the way of other traffic after you stop!!!

There’s more than one way to die. The G problem is only applicable if you
aren’t killed by projections in the dashboard, lacerations from broken
glass, etc., etc. With motorcycles, the problems are more often not G’s.

Anyway - crumple zones are a little better.

Compared to what? If compared to cars that crumple similarly but were not
designed specifically for the 30 mph test, I agree, the benefits are small,
especially if the impact occurs at speeds other than 30 mph. If compared to
a hypothetically rigid automobile, crumple zones are a BUNCH better. Let’s
make that as clear as possible: if you wanna survive an accident, you do NOT
want a rigid car!

anyway the jag is the safest car on UK roads.

IMHO, the safest car on any road is the one capable of avoiding the accident
in the first place. I, for one, would like to see the US crashworthiness
tests altered as follows: instead of testing the car by running it into the
wall at 30 mph, the car should approach the wall at 60 mph and hit the
brakes at some standardized point. With proper selection of the braking
distance, the average car will still hit the wall at 30 mph, and the test is
not changed. But cars with superior braking capability will hit the wall
slower, thereby reaping significant benefits over the Detroit battlewagons
that can’t stop within a city block but still garner superior ratings on
these tests!

if someone with crumple zones hits you , you share the benefits anyway!

This is true! If you gotta hit someone, pick the modern car to hit, since
it will improve YOUR odds of survival!

  --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                   |  some rules must be broken.
                   |          -- Palm's Postulate

From: “John J. Lynch” pdi@cnj.digex.net
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 96 17:07:38 PDT
Subject: 89 XJ-S V-12 Panel light rheostat

Gang,

Yet another Lucas electrical problem to be aware of. It seems the rheostat for the panel lights is subject to failure due to wear. After loosing interior lighting last week I openned up the rheostat to find that the metal contact paper had delaminated from the printed circuit board creating an open connection to my dash lights. For the moment I’ve jumped the leads to solve the problem. Anybody know what the resistance is on a good unit??. In case the replacement part is mucho $$ I’ll probably substitute a part from the local Radio Shack or just leave the jumpers in place!!

John J. Lynch
1989 XJ-S V-12
pdi@cnj.digex.net

From: Peter Hamel jo79@dial.pipex.com
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 96 20:56:22 GMT
Subject: alloy wheel refinishing

Stefan,

The company is called Pristine, they are in South Milton Keynes and their=

phone number is 01908 282628. They have various agents around the country=
who
will send them off for you so you don’t need to go there.
They charged me about =A350 per wheel, which is not cheap but the results=
were
excellent.
Good luck, Regards,

Pete

Peter,

Who is that alloy wheel refinishing company you mentioned ? I’m in the
UK too, and may be able to use them

Regards,

Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk

From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 14:47:39 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ6 ECU bad–I think (fwd)

This sounds like an intermittent fuel pressure regulator. It’s quite
common. If you drive the car around with a fuel pressure gauge hooked
up you would see the pressure max out to 100+ psi. Remember, the first
thing to check is fuel pressure!

Good luck.

William F Trimble wrote:

Dear Jag-Lovers:
I’ve been struggling with bad running problems with my 85 XJ6 for
the last six weeks or so. The car runs rich, fouling the plugs
within a couple of miles. Cold idles is all right, then sometimes it
drops quickly off cold idle and runs badly. Through various diagnostic
procedures, we eliminated the ignition side. The coil is OK, the amplifier is OK, and
the pickup module is OK. Oil filler cap was tight, too.
So, over to the fuel side. The air flow meter was next to new, but we
changed it out for the old one I had. That made no difference. We
thought we might have had a fuel flow problem, so we disconnected the
return lines. The car ran fine for a while, then began to run rich
again. The airflow meter is next to brand new, but we swapped if for
the old one I have. No change. Then we thought it might be a carbon
cannister blockage. Bypassed that, checked the valves, and the car ran
again–for a couple of days, then started to run rich again. Replaced
the carbon cannister and the fuel return valves. No change. Car ran
badly. Swapped the O2 sensor. The one that was in it was about a year
old, but we changed it just to see what happened. Nothing changed.
Pulled the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator. That made no
difference, other than inhibiting acceleration. Fuel pump seemed noisy,
so replaced it, too. That made no difference, either.
We were pretty sure that we had done everything else we could do,
so we decided to look at the ECU. We disconnected it, crimped and
cleaned female connectors, cleaned male connectors, tapped the ECU and put
it back in. Car ran fine for two days, then back to rich running and
plug fouling. Barely got the car out of the driveway. Repeated the
above–removed ECU, tapped on it, and put it back in. Car ran fine. In
fact it ran all day Saturday and all day Sunday, and got me to work
today. It does, however, have a hot start problem that it did not have
before. It will crank forever on the first try, then fire almost
immediately on the second.
OK. We (Rick the mechanic, Larry Lee, me, and my dog) give up.
Anybody have any ideas? Has anybody had intermittent ECU failures? Is
there something wrong with the connector to the ECU? How can you know if
there’s a problem with the connector?
I did change the thermostat before all this developed. This
involved taking off the coolant rail, and moving some of the injection
harness out of the way. In the process of hooking things back up, I did
not connect a ground, and the car would not start. After connecting the
ground, the car ran fine for at least a couple of weeks. Could cranking
the car with that ground disconnected cause problems with the ECU?
Any advice, help, experience would be greatly appreciated.

Bill Trimble
Auburn, Alabama

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #53

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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 23 April 1996 Volume 02 : Number 054

From: Jim Goring jgoring@ccnet.com
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 15:24:58 +0000
Subject: Re: 3.8S automatic

LLoyd wrote:

A friend has a 3.8S w/automatic tranny that is starting to fail. It’s a
Borg/Warner 3-band. Can he get parts for this tranny, or does he need to
replace it with a different type? Cost? Wher can he get one? This is worst
case, it goes into the shop tomorrow.

LLoyd

keep me posted!.. my S-type is in my garage (yes, still) untill finances permit me to drive it (in first gear) to a
local tranny place that works on these relics. I think places that repair these are far and few between. For
about $2400, some independants will use one of those ‘John’s Cars’ kits to fit a GMt400 onto the flywheel of the XK
engine. (if you are in the bay area, there is a shop in south san francisco thats done this a couple of times) If
my tranny needs a rebuild, I’m going to toss it in favor of the GM unit. Preserving the XK engine for purity’s
sake is one thing… but there is nothing sacred about the BW DG250…

Check out the link to John’s Cars on Nicks page. Some pretty helpful info.

And let us know your friends fate!

-Jim Goring

3.8 S type… garage queen

From: Patrick Krejcik pkr@SLAC.Stanford.EDU
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 15:32:21 -0700
Subject: Re: Car Talk Click and Clack

I just took a look at the Cartalk site of Click and Clack at:
http://cartalk.com/

Lots of fun stuff plus a survey to fill out about what you like/dislike
about your car. It took me about 10 minutes to fill it out.
Wouldn’t it be truly amazing if 500 Jaguar lovers responded to this
survey! Do you think they would start to believe in a conspiracy if, of
all the survey respondents who liked their cars, a huge proportion
turned out to be Jaguar owners! I recomend such action as self-indulgent
fun for the Jag-lovers list.

Cheers,
time for subversive fun,
Patrick.

'65 Series I 4.2 E-Type FHC

From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 18:32:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: XJ6 ECU bad–I think (fwd)

Dear Jag-Lovers:
I’ve been struggling with bad running problems with my 85 XJ6 for
the last six weeks or so. The car runs rich, fouling the plugs
within a couple of miles. Cold idles is all right, then sometimes it
…
Pulled the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator. That made no
difference, other than inhibiting acceleration. Fuel pump seemed noisy,
so replaced it, too. That made no difference, either.

What we have here is all the classic signs of a failing fuel pressure
regulator. The regulator is stuck closed, or the return line is plugged,
and the poor pump is screaming as it pushes out over 100 PSI. Needless
to say, the car runs a little rich. The fuel pressure should be a constant
36 PSI above manifold pressure. What is your fuel pressure, while the car
is running bad?

…
Bill Trimble
Auburn, Alabama

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 96 15:49:17 PDT
Subject: Auto vs. Manual in XK8

Auto or manual for the XK8? I can see both sides, but I
really think the market is going to lean heavily toward the
automatic, especially here in the U.S… Jaguar tried to sell
some manual XJS’s here in the last few years (anybody know
the exact model years?), but the appeal appeared to be limited.
I know, traditionalists require that a real sports car to have
a manual box, but I agree with one magazine article which
states that The XK8 is more of an XJS with an attitude,
than a pure sportscar in the sense of an E-type.

Personally, I’d prefer an automatic. I like driving a Jaguar
to be an effortless experience; there’s too much traffic around
town for manual transmission to be enjoyable. These days, automatic
transmissions are getting really good anyways, so it becomes a reasonable
choice even for the enthusiast.

Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD

From: “Himes,John W.” jwh@dw.att.com
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 96 16:34:00 PDT
Subject: Screen Saver

Just a note to Terry Fairbrother.

Took a look at your homepage, you did a good job. You maybe could add a
e-mail button instead of just listing your e-mail address. I do not know
anything about html, so you are miles ahead of me.

Looking at the convertible picture, looks like the rear seat room is just as
roomy, or maybe a little less then my 88 XJ-S. ( If you are a very small
child that is )

Like the screen saver intro. I was hoping there was more to it. Cute
promotional saver.

Have fun.

John Himes
88 XJ-S 93K miles

From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 96 16:04:49 PDT
Subject: Auto vs. Manual, part II

Question:

If there’s an automatic transmission that offers, say 98% the
performance of a manual, would anyone still prefer to drive a
manual? If so, for what reasons? (other than idealogy or stubbornness.)

I think the modern automatic transmission offers many advantages
over the manual:

More inperceptible gear change. Most drivers can’t accomplish
that on a manual the majority of the time.
Low/no maintenance. The auto’s in say, BMW’s, require no service
at all, not even a fluid change. You’ll never need to change
the clutch (engine-out job on many Jags), never need to worry
about clutch master/slave cylinders going bad or clutch fluid
going bad, and never need any adjustments.
Of course, effortless driving. You can be eating a burger at
the same time.

Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD

From: tony goodall tony@goodall.u-net.com
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 00:07:31 +0100
Subject: Re: Higher Taxes, Anyone?

At 18:49 22/04/96 +0100, Nick Johannessen wrote:

Now, why do so few people live in Norway?

Hey Nick!
I thought that was because all the Norges were all in England,
drinking our cheap beer! (and raiding marks and spencers)

cheers!!
tony

Dr. A. Goodall       http://www.u-net.com/~goodall/

From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 19:07:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Clunkers, zero-emissions

I may be totally off base here, but I heard somewhere that electric motors
produce ozone, which is a bad thing to have in the troposphere. Does anyone
know if it is produced in any measureable quantity?

All common automotive motors have commutators, which arc somewhat during
operation. This arcing will always produce some ozone by combining oxygen
molecules in the surrounding air. It is somewhat mitigated by the fact that
these motors are 12V, and the low voltage keeps the arcing to a minimum.

All the motors on board a typical car will therefore generate ozone,
including the starter, wipers, blower fans, electric windows, etc. The ones
that run the most – blowers and wipers – could be expected to be the
biggest sources.

The Lucas fuel pump in the XJ-S probably does NOT create ozone; the
commutator is immersed in fuel!

If you wanna get picky, every switch probably creates a tiny amount of ozone
when switched. Same with relays.

If it is, it seems as
if some aspects of air quality in cities would not be improved by switching
to “zero emmision” vehicles. Ozone is already a problem in some places.

I’d be interested in hearing more about these problems. Last I heard, the
only problem with ozone was that it attacked rubber products, including tires.

Zero emission electric cars, however, don’t produce ozone; they all use
brushless motors for efficiency. If anyone can muster the interest, these
type motors could also be used in the accessories in normal cars. Brushless
DC motors are quite common in other applications. Instead of relying on
carbon brushes and a segmented commutator, these motors use a transistorized
switching system. In some cases they include an optical or magnetic sensor
to sense rotor position, and in other cases they are designed not to even
need to know rotor position. Converting to such motors would be analogous
to converting from points to electronic ignition. It would totally
eliminate the arcing that causes ozone. It would also have durability
benefits, similar to that of electronic ignition; it eliminates the only
real wear item in the motor: the brushes. If properly designed, these
motors can also be quieter, since they lack the commutator; unfortunately,
they often buzz irritably at low speeds, and designers typically claim it
would cost too much to keep them quiet.

Of course, they’ll cost more. Did you really need to ask?

And if the transistorized system is made by Lucas, well…

It might also be possible to replace the various switches with
transistorized switching methods, much the way all our stereos and TV’s have.

  --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                   |  some rules must be broken.
                   |          -- Palm's Postulate

From: Patrick Fitzhorn patrick@lance.colostate.edu
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 17:34:47 -0600
Subject: Re: 3.8S automatic

LLoyd wrote:

A friend has a 3.8S w/automatic tranny that is starting to fail. It’s a
Borg/Warner 3-band. Can he get parts for this tranny, or does he need to
replace it with a different type? Cost? Wher can he get one? This is worst
case, it goes into the shop tomorrow.

LLoyd

my tranny needs a rebuild, I’m going to toss it in favor of the GM unit. Preserving the XK engine for purity’s
sake is one thing… but there is nothing sacred about the BW DG250…

I think the auto box on the 3.8S is a BW DG35, not a BW DG250. The cost
to rebuild my DG250 was about US$ 1250 for parts and equal for labor. My
guess is that the DG35 should be slightly cheaper. With one single exception,
parts were no problem (in fact, the torque converter was slit, rebuilt and welded, an outstanding job). The “impossible” part was an anti-creep pressure
switch with a ruptured case.

BTW, if anyone has a BW DG250 they would like to get rid of, I would like
a spare.

patrick fitzhorn ! “There is no unsophisticated engineering left,
mechanical engineering ! or at least there shouldn’t be!”
colorado state university ! Gorden Glegg

From: lwalden@ebmud.com (Lee Walden)
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 16:50:48 -0700
Subject: Re: Old Cars vs. Safety and the Environment

At 11:22 1996/04/22 -0500, Dennis Murphy wrote:

Propane would be a very interesting solution for the emissions problem.
Especially in the 420G where that monster rear boot just begs to be filled
with >a tank. I wonder, however, about the safety tradeoff involved with
putting a flammable gas in the rear crush zone???

John,

Don’t worry about it. I recently saw a video put out by the CNG folks ( a
much better alternative than propane) on tank safety. You cannot make one of
those suckers explode no matter what you do. One of the tests involved older
cars with CNG conversions and the tanks in the trunk. They lifted them with
a crane (hooked to the front) and dropped them on the rear bumper from 50+
feet - no explosion, no leaks.

Dennis Murphy
Geneva, IL
1952 XK 120
1990 XJ-S

Hmmm. That’s why all of our fleet of CNG trucks were recalled. Someting to
do with leaking tanks and safety hazards.

From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 96 19:59:23 EDT
Subject: Re: Clunkers, zero-emissions

From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
*** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FE21
*** INTERNET - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM *** IBMMAIL - AUIBMSPM ****
Subject: Re: Clunkers, zero-emissions

Braman, I think you just solved the greatest environmental threat that
we Australians have been facing for years !!! The huge hole in the
Ozone layer is just south of us, and is getting bigger. If electric
motors produce ozone, then hell, lets get electric cars onto the roads
ASAP !!! Not only will we get rid of the smog from all
the cars and trucks, but the extra ozone will patch the ozone layer
hole !!!

Now if we can just work out that minor problem with the pollution
from the acids/gases and production plants that go into producing all
this electric power…not to mention the increased cancer risks that
we all will have as a result of the increased levels of electric current
around our bodies…
I hope it’s not too long before we get this solar power thing going…

Hey, I wonder if Jaguar are thinking of making bicycles ?

REGARDS…Shane
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From: bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman Wing)
Subject: Re: Clunkers, zero-emissions
Sender: owner-jag-lovers@sn.no
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I may be totally off base here, but I heard somewhere that electric motors
produce ozone, which is a bad thing to have in the troposphere. Does anyone
know if it is produced in any measureable quantity? If it is, it seems as
if some aspects of air quality in cities would not be improved by switching
to “zero emmision” vehicles. Ozone is already a problem in some places.

                                                   regards,

                                                    Braman

From: “Patrick O’Neill” Patrick_O@msn.com
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 96 00:21:31 UT
Subject: Re: Dry Sump

Hello All,

I have found a good description with pictures of a Dry Sump system for a
Caterham/Lotus 7.

It is at: http://www.na.rim.or.jp/~doshir/auto/sevenand/what-in.html

Regards,

Patrick D. O’Neill
1963 MKII 3.8L MOD

From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 21:03:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Series II E-type fuel problem

At 02:11 PM 4/22/96 EDT, you wrote:

My roadster hasn’t been on the road since Sept. and the symptom is fuel.
It starts and runs on ether, but fuel’s not being delivered. I saw a
terrific post awhile ago that the XJ6’s fuel pump being the same as a
Vega’s (I think). Assuming my problem is the E’s pump, there wouldn’t be
any alternative for full freight would there? I didn’t think so

Norm:

Funny you should ask. This weekend I blew the fuel pump on my 1969 XKE. I
was a long way from home and a bit desperate, so I walked into an AID store
and naively asked for a fuel pump for a '69 E. The counter clerk shrugged,
looked in his book, and came up with a yellow box labeled KEM EFP19,
electonic fuel pump, KEM Manufacturing, Fair Lawn, NJ. It as about 40 bucks.

It turned out to be a very nice little fuel pump, which fit with no fuss. I
was on the road again in 15 minutes.

I ordered a new SU today, but only because I’m hung up on originality.

Mike

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 23 Apr 96 11:05:24
Subject: Re: Dry Sump

This is opinion, Kirby, but broadly speaking it’s unwise to add complexity (as
you know, a dry sump system has a separate scavenge pump and a remote oil tank

- all connected with external pipes). I’m sure you know how much trouble
  external oil lines are heir to… The maximum height saving in an engine that
  isn’t scratch-built for racing would be pretty marginal - in the case of the
  V12, it would be the height of the bolt-on sump minus whatever space the
  scavenge pick-up needs. Call it an inch and a half?

Then you have the additional complications of the chassis; the lowest point on
the V12 is really the underside of the front cross member, which is sitting
where the sump ain’t. So if you wanted to lower a V12 engine, you’d need to
redesign the chassis radically to pass the front cross member ahead of the
engine. This may be what the E-type has (sorry, I never studied one close up),
since it has been dry-sumped for competition.

Besides, I remember from my days with Volvo (I wrote the manuals for their
heavy vehicles back in the early sixties) that when you think in terms of
500,000-car production runs, a $20 cost saving looks mighty important, and a
wet sump saves a lot more than that. If production car makers will go to the
extreme of front wheel drive to save a few bucks, forget about exotic racing
technology!

- Jan

** File not found. Should I fake it? (Y/N) **

From: “Ronald H. Davis” ron7680@cjnetworks.com
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 20:17:58 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Hazy XJ40 Headlamp lens

At 03:56 PM 4/19/96 +0100, you wrote:

Apologies for replying to “last weeks digests”, I haven’t had
much chance to get near the system since the new arrivals…

A couple of thoughts about the hazy lamp problem, if its water,
the heat of the headlamp bulbs should vapourise it, but if the
bulb seals well then the vapour can’t go anywhere, but if the
bulbs (or the lens) seals that well, how did the water get in
there in the first place.

Assuming it is water, I remember the following from school
chemistry lessons about making sure things are "really
really dry, rinse them with acetone, this “grabs hold” of the
water and then evaporates at much lower temp. - this may be
complete hogwash - school was a long time ago!

Regards
Paul

I can’t believe that no one has included DIELECTRIC GREASE in any of these
threads. Anyone dealing with Lucas components should have a supply of
Scotchbrite and a 5 gallon bucket of dielectric grease. Same on any car.
You know when you turn the key some morning and all you get is a “click” or
two, the first thing you look for is are corroded batter terminals.
Cleaning and a dielectric grease (I’ll repeat that - dielectric grease) are
the answer.
Ron Davis
1954 Sunbeam-Talbot Alpine
1986 Honda XR 250R

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 19:27:13 -0500
Subject: To anyone who has ever posted to Jag Lovers

I am going through all the old digests and am finding some usefull material
for the “XJ6 Book” I will be copying some of the information I find into
the book and may not always be able to give credit where credit is due so I
am asking up front if anyone does not want me to use their posts. I will
assume silence means acceptance.

The XJ6 Book should be ready for preliminary release about June 30th.

Watch for an anouncement.

It will be available for downloading and will also be available in a
printed, bound book format for those who prefer to have it on a book shelf.

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 23 Apr 96 12:28:53
Subject: Re: Safety

Kirby wrote:

IMHO, the safest car on any road is the one capable of avoiding the accident
in the first place. I, for one, would like to see the US crashworthiness
tests altered as follows: instead of testing the car by running it into the
wall at 30 mph, the car should approach the wall at 60 mph and hit the
brakes at some standardized point. With proper selection of the braking
distance, the average car will still hit the wall at 30 mph, and the test is
not changed. But cars with superior braking capability will hit the wall
slower, thereby reaping significant benefits over the Detroit battlewagons
that can’t stop within a city block but still garner superior ratings on
these tests!

A wonderful idea, and I agree wholeheartedly (I could embroider it, but the
basis is right). It’s also rational, sensible and effective, so we can be
absolutely certain that any government will reject it out of hand…

- Jan

** Are you sure (N/N)? **

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 23 Apr 96 11:13:30
Subject: Re: XJ6 SIII 7" Headlights

Peter Morris wrote:

Can’t see into the wing to verify the presence of any ducting!

You can, too. Put a hand in above the front wheel and feel the top inside of
the wing. You’ll notice it’s flat and not curved like the top; that’s the duct.
I don’t know the SIII, but on my SII there’s a pull handle on each side near
the front edge of the door, which controls the fresh air. There’s a coarsely
knurled disk about 2in diameter on the outside wall of each footwell; that’s
the outlet and you can turn it to change the direction of the air flow.

- Jan

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 23 Apr 96 12:41:13
Subject: Re: Clunkers, zero-emissions

Kirby wrote(snip):

I’d be interested in hearing more about these problems. Last I heard, the
only problem with ozone was that it attacked rubber products, including tires.

Ozone is very strongly reactive indeed. The fake antique books industry uses
ozone to age paper at a rate of a couple of hundred years in minutes. Worse is
that weight for weight, it’s the most poisonous substance known to man. I seem
to recall reading that 3 ppm (parts per million) destroys all life down to the
virus level, which is why the French use it to disinfect their city water
supplies. I believe the Swedish work safety legislation requires ozone below
0.2 ppm in power stations, but I’m talking about stuff I read 40 years ago…

There used to be ozone generators for sale some years ago, as the fresh air
enjoyed in a pine forest after a thunderstorm was ascribed to “the invigorating
effects of ozone”. Fortunately, they didn’t work… Certain turn-of-the-century
mineral water labels make interesting reading in this context, as they used to
brag with their content of radioactive substances…

- Jan

** Dammit no! Don’t pick on the pho^$ L%a#!#+ **

From: bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman Wing)
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 00:15:17 -0400
Subject: Re: Clunkers, zero-emissions

I seem

to recall reading that 3 ppm (parts per million) destroys all life down to the
virus level, which is why the French use it to disinfect their city water
supplies. I believe the Swedish work safety legislation requires ozone below
0.2 ppm in power stations, but I’m talking about stuff I read 40 years ago…

I have a chart from the EPA that says ozone in concentrations of 10 ppm can
cause severe pulmonary edema, decreased blood pressure, and severe
bronchiolitis. I only have data from 1968, which shows that LA regularly
exceeded .25ppm, which can cause eye irritation and respiratory
difficulties. I would imagine that these figures are higher now. Ozone also
has very negative effects on agriculture in concentrations as little as .05
ppm.

Unfortunately, this ozone is in the troposphere, where it does us no good
at all. We need ozone in the stratosphere, where it has theoretically been
depleted by CFC’s. Incidentally, if everyone obeys the current treaties on
CFC limits, NASA says that the ozone “hole” should go away by late next
century. If anyone wants more info on ozone problems, let me know, because
I am taking a seminar about it and have lots of stuff. Cheers,

                                                    Braman

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #54

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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 23 April 1996 Volume 02 : Number 055

From: Dikavik@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 00:46:59 -0400
Subject: 3.8S Auto Trans Parts

An excellent source of parts for all automatic transmissions including
specialized items for Jaguar BW trans is:
Northwest Transmission Parts, 6347 Fair Ridge Road, Hillsboro, Ohio 45133.
Phone 513-927-5366.
They stock all sorts of rebuilt units and are nice people to deal with as
well.
Good luck. Dick Cavicke
Former MK 2 and 3.8S Automatics

From: ad366@lafn.org (Dana Adams)
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 22:17:47 -0700
Subject: odo question

Hello to all

Could someone point me to a source for interior wood for a 1986 XJ6,
preferably in the Southern California area. Used would be great, as I
only need to replace the center console piece, the dash and others are
still good.

Also, on this same car, the speedo and odo are non-functioning. Are they
electronic on this year model? What is the usual cause for failure, the
sensor on the trans, (is it on the trans?) or the instrument itself?

Clues and suggestions greatly appreciated. TIA for any help.

Dana

333

From: HappyFlyer@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 01:45:30 -0400
Subject: 4.2 Litre Tappet Retainers

Sometime in the last 6 months there was a posting exchange on the subject.
One chap having a shop in Stockton, CA seemed very knowledgable… could
someone be so kind as to give me a lead? My old PC crashed without me having
backed up this file section!

Thanks in advance, Harry
'74 XJ6 in recovery…
714+447-4810

From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 02:44:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Dry Sump

This is opinion, Kirby, but broadly speaking it’s unwise to add complexity (as
you know, a dry sump system has a separate scavenge pump and a remote oil tank

all connected with external pipes). I’m sure you know how much trouble
external oil lines are heir to…

I’m not sure the additional complexity would be all that great. Many cars,
Jaguars included, already have external oil lines going to and from a
cooler. Adding a reservoir should be no big deal, and the dual oil pump
won’t be major when designed into the engine and mass-produced.

The maximum height saving in an engine that
isn’t scratch-built for racing would be pretty marginal - in the case of the
V12, it would be the height of the bolt-on sump minus whatever space the
scavenge pick-up needs. Call it an inch and a half?

I think you can pull the bottom of the sump right up to the bottom of the
crank throws, and scavenge from each side. On the Jag V-12, this would be
more like four inches. The result would be that the lowest item would be
the flywheel/clutch/torque convertor, which is why I mentioned the
multi-plate clutch idea. You must address them both to do any good.

Then you have the additional complications of the chassis; the lowest point on
the V12 is really the underside of the front cross member, which is sitting
where the sump ain’t. So if you wanted to lower a V12 engine, you’d need to
redesign the chassis radically to pass the front cross member ahead of the
engine.

Whoa! There is no way I’d suggest any benefit for an existing automobile
design! What I’m suggesting is that automobiles could be designed from the
ground up incorporating a dry sump, and greatly reduce the hood height.

Besides, I remember from my days with Volvo (I wrote the manuals for their
heavy vehicles back in the early sixties) that when you think in terms of
500,000-car production runs, a $20 cost saving looks mighty important, and a
wet sump saves a lot more than that.

When Lee Iococca took over at Chrysler, he told the designers that if he
ever caught anyone using that logic again, they would be fired on the spot.
It was the only way to get them to include anything but four wheels and an
engine on the car, and the customers had learned that the cars were cheap
and wouldn’t buy them anymore.

A dry sump may not be a big selling point, but a low hoodline on a car with
a big engine might be. Like I said, I’m kinda surprised nobody has tried it.

  --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                   |  some rules must be broken.
                   |          -- Palm's Postulate

From: Kirby Palm palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 02:44:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Auto vs. Manual, part II

If there’s an automatic transmission that offers, say 98% the
performance of a manual, would anyone still prefer to drive a
manual? If so, for what reasons? (other than idealogy or stubbornness.)

One major reason: When you are in a four wheel drift in a turn with your
foot deep in the throttle, having the damn thing shift can send you into the
trees. A manual will NOT shift when you don’t want it to!

However, there is also questionable validity to your question. I have yet
to see an automatic that offers more than about 70% of the performance of a
manual, either speed or fuel economy. I have a 5-speed in my XJ-S, and can
assure you it makes the GM400 look pretty sad indeed – although that’s no
reflection on modern automatics, since the GM400 is a dinosaur. But I just
got through with a two-week trip in a brand new rental car, and the A/T in
that piece of junk sure didn’t change my mind about automatics.

I think there probably are inherent problems with the fluid drive/band
clutch/planetary gear method of power transmission. What I’m really hoping
will eventually happen is that somebody will couple a conventional manual
transmission to a torque convertor, and use microprocessor-controlled servos
to shift it. That should bring the internal losses back down within reason.

  --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                   |  some rules must be broken.
                   |          -- Palm's Postulate

From: “Rennick, Kim (AS01)” KRennick@p05.as01.honeywell.com.au
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 96 16:06:00 EST
Subject: XJ40 3.6L Sovereign: Antilock Failure

Jag-lovers,

Some time ago I posted a question regarding intermittent showing of the
‘Antilock Failure’ message on the VCM of my car and subsequent
reinitialising of the ABS unit. I had several replies from knowledgeable
folks pointing me to the ABS Overvoltage relay, mounted in the rear LH
fender.

Just by way of feedback, I can now report that I replaced the said relay
and, voila! the problem is fixed! FYI, I was quoted A$120 for the relay in
Australia, and US$60 from SICP in the US. (I took the SICP offer!).

So, thanks for the valued assistance - slowly, the knowledge spreads…

Kim Rennick

|
| XJ40 3.6L Sovereign - my daily driver & weekend occupier
| Citroen BX 19 GTI - wife’s daily driver & weekend occupier
|__________________________________________________

From: “Rennick, Kim (AS01)” KRennick@p05.as01.honeywell.com.au
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 96 16:25:00 EST
Subject: XJ40: Rust!

Folks,

On the outside of the rear door window frames of the XJ40, there is a small
(approximately 2" * 3") triangular piece of black painted metal that covers
a similarly triangular strengthening fillet containing the window channel.
I think that the black panel is rivetted onto the window frame

On my car (only on the LH door, mind you) this in-fill panel (ie the black
painted cover, rather that the window frame or the door itself) is rapidly
rusting to the point of extinction. My esteemed Jaguar agent tells me that
I have to replace the complete window frame, at a cost of (only) A$850, plus
labour! For some reason, I judged this to be not good value.

Has any XJ40 owner experienced a similar problem, and if so, tried to
replace the triangular in-fill panel? Can you give some pointers, like…

Must I remove the window frame (and hence the window glass) in order to
replace the in-fill panel?
Is there a known source for a professional looking replacement, not
attached to a complete window frame (and costing less than $850) ?
Any handy hints that I should know when attacking this?
How should a replacement panel be treated to avoid re-occurrence of the
rust?

This rust is not exactly structural, but it offends me nevertheless.
Whenever I was & polish the car (which is often) it cries out for
attention.

Thanks in advance,

Kim Rennick

|
| XJ40 3.6L Sovereign - my daily driver & weekend occupier
| Citroen BX 19 GTI - wife’s daily driver & weekend occupier
|__________________________________________________

From: “Martin Robert Fooks, WWIS” mfooks@postiss.netherlands.attgis.com
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 96 08:53:00 PDT
Subject: Safty, Crumple-Zones et all

Tony Goodall wrote : (remember the guy with no parachute who had no
injuries after falling from 20000 feet?, after terminal velocity is
reached (about 120mph??), he stopped accelerating. Then he hit the side
of a fir tree, then a snowdrift. he walked away!

Good point Tony… I shall look out for fir-trees if I have a major
accident in the future (I think I’ll have to wait till next winter for
the snow though, so I hope I’m not going too fast).

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 23 Apr 96 17:54:27
Subject: Rear engine/gearbox mount [XJ12]

Since the subject was raised recently, may I suggest that we standardise on
putting the applicable car type last in the subject and in square brackets, as
in this mail? Any standard at all would serve, of course, but somebody has to
be first to kick the ball or there won’t be a game…

To the subject: the rear mount on the V12 with the GM400 slush box is very
clever. A large coil spring takes the weight and a very soft foam rubber bush
restricts sideways movement. Fine, but the design assumes that gravity remains
unchanged, and there is nothing much to restrain upward movement. If you drive
like me, skipping gaily over hill and dale, you must have noticed an annoying
“clunk” from the floor every time the car gets airborne (well, almost) over a
crest or bump.
Well, I’ve found that a radiator mounting rubber (roughly 2in dia. by 3/8
thick) is a perfect fit on the rebound side and even has the right size hole in
the middle. Just undo the one large and two small bolts on the bottom plate,
pop it in and do the bolts up good and tight. The bumping is cured and there is
only one noticeable side effect: if the box is subject to clutch judder on
takeoff, it will be aggravated. Which, I guess, explains the choice of such an
ultra-supple design in the first place…

- Jan

** If you redo a batch file, does it become a son of a batch? **

From: William F Trimble trimbwf@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 05:59:15 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: XJ6 ECU bad–I think.

Dear Michael and Jag-Lovers:
There seems to be an emerging consensus that the fuel pressure
regulator is the prime suspect. We did not check the fuel pressure with
a gauge, so we don’t know if the pressure’s going out of sight. I’ll
replace it and see what happens. I wonder what’s going on, though, when
we take the ECU out and put it back in and the car runs.
Thanks for everyone’s help. I’ll report back on developments.

Bill Trimble
Auburn, Alabama

From: Craig Tiano ctiano@voicenet.com
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 07:42:05 -0400
Subject: Re: Dry Sump

A dry sump may not be a big selling point, but a low hoodline on a car with
a big engine might be. Like I said, I’m kinda surprised nobody has tried it.

The Mercedes Benz 6.9 cars of 1976-1982 had a dry sump, primarily due to the
huge size of the engine and the need to fit the tall engine into the
standard engine bay of a 450SEL. The oil capacity is about 10 quarts…
I own one, and it can press you back into the seat even when accellerating
from 80mph…Of course, it just doesn’t have the style of the Daimler in my
driveway, or the beautiful interior, but it always starts which is something
I can’t say about the fine car from Coventry.
Craig Tiano

homepage: http://www.voicenet.com/~ctiano
email: ctiano@voicenet.com

American Eskimo Dogs, Photography,
Antique Cars, HTML/CGI/Datacomm guru

------------------------------

From: "J.W. Beckmeyer" <73131.3076@compuserve.com>
Date: 23 Apr 96 08:30:01 EDT
Subject: Jag Restorations:hardware

Hi all...

A quick question for you...

As I go through the process of bringing my MK II up to driver status, I find
that a great deal of time is spent on the road going after nuts, bolts and other
misc. hardware.

I've seen those ads in JC WHitney and Harbor Freight for "The 1001 Nuts and Bolt
Assortment" for only USD 9.95 but we all know that these fasteners are pretty
low grade.  I'm wondering if you know of anyone makes/markets a similar set of
common use fasteners but of a higher grade, at least five or better? Or am I
destined to make daily trips to my local NAPA store for fasteners as I need
them?

Thanks and Best regards,
Jim Beckmeyer    Union CIty, MI USA
e-mail: 73131.3076@compuserve.com
90 Jaguar XJ-40-Sovereign
60 Jaguar MK II

------------------------------

From: "White, Dick" <white@msgate.columbiasc.ncr.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 96 08:48:00 edt
Subject: RE: 3.8S Auto Trans Parts

 ----------
>From: Dikavik
>To: 3030%navpgs.bitnet
>Cc: jag-lovers
>Subject: 3.8S Auto Trans Parts
>Date: Tuesday, April 23, 1996 12:46AM
>
>An excellent source of parts for all automatic transmissions including
>specialized items for Jaguar BW trans is:
>Northwest Transmission Parts, 6347 Fair Ridge Road, Hillsboro, Ohio 45133.
>Phone 513-927-5366.
>They stock all sorts of rebuilt units and are nice people to deal with as
>well.
>Good luck. Dick Cavicke
>Former MK 2 and 3.8S Automatics
>

I'll second that.  I've purchased parts from Northwest also.  They  seem to 
have the necessary parts and are very helpful.

I also recall a George Radwan in New York state who sells parts and rebuilt 
transmissions.  I don't know if he is still around it's been a two or three 
years since I spoke with him.  At one time I considered replacing mine and 
he had a rebuilt BW DG250 for $850 with exchange.  Did not include shipping. 
 The number I have for him is (516) 360-3681.  I never purchased from him so 
I can't attest to quality of work, one way or the other.

Dick White
'64 3.8 S-Type (auto)
'58 XK 150 FHC 

------------------------------

From: "White, Dick" <white@msgate.columbiasc.ncr.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 96 08:58:00 edt
Subject: Re: 3.8S automatic

Hello Patrick,

I don't know when they switched but I have a '64 3.8S and it has a BW DG250. 
 [I'm sure, those name plates are easy to read when they're lying on the 
garage floor :-)]
 ----------

>
>I think the auto box on the 3.8S is a BW DG35, not a BW DG250.  The cost
>to rebuild my DG250 was about US$ 1250 for parts and equal for labor.  My
>guess is that the DG35 should be slightly cheaper.  With one single 
exception,
>parts were no problem (in fact, the torque converter was slit, rebuilt and
>welded, an outstanding job).  The "impossible" part was an anti-creep 
pressure
>switch with a ruptured case.
>

>BTW, if anyone has a BW DG250 they would like to get rid of, I would like
>a spare.

Bad timing.  About 6 mos. ago someone in the San Francisco area was cleaning 
out his garage and he was giving one away.  I wanted it but it was too far 
to go.

>
>patrick fitzhorn            ! "There is no unsophisticated engineering 
left,
>mechanical engineering      !  or at least there shouldn't be!"
>colorado state university   !                                  Gorden Glegg
>
Regards,

Dick White
Columbia, SC
'64 3.8 S-Type
'58 XK 150 FHC

------------------------------

From: "Roger langley" <lang0080@gold.tc.umn.edu>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 96 05:27:32 CST
Subject: Interchangeability of doors on Series 2 and Series 3

Does any one know if a front door od a 1976 XJ12L Series 2 wil fit a 1983
XJ6 Series 3?  They look the same but it's hard to tell.
Roger

Roger Langley
University of Minnesota
Vocational Education

------------------------------

From: David Wood <David.Wood@durham.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 14:33:09 PDT
Subject: Old cars, safety, fuel prices, etc.

Dear all,

Lots of discussion on these topics in the last few days. Now a point of view from 
the UK.

1. I was astounded at Kirby's comments about wanting a brake test on cars every 
year. Don't you have one already?? We have had something called the annual 
MOT test for over thirty years, and which has gradually been upgraded to cover a 
comprehensive collection of things; brakes, including handrake, footbrake, 
individual wheel operation, rotor corrosion, brake pipes, etc.; steering and 
suspension, including dampers, bushes, corrosion; bodywork, where structural or 
including dangerous protrusions; seat belt function and condition; exhaust 
condition, emissions, noise; lights function; tyre wear and condition; no doubt lots 
of other things too. Don't you have such a test?

2. Someone mentioned the dubious validity of transferring emissions from a 
tailpipe to a power plant. The reason why this is valid is that you are replacing a 
multitude of tailpipes, hiding various levels of maintenance, with a few central, 
more easily controlled plants. The chance of better emissions control is much 
improved. 

3. I think it was Ryan and Kirby who suggested high fuel taxes as a means of 
getting people to tune up their engines. Fine in theory, if the person driving the car 
is paying for the fuel. In the UK, we have a company car mentality - it is a 
desirable, and very common, part of an employment package to be offered a car in 
typical middle management positions. Also as part of the deal is coverage of all the 
running costs. So the driver has no financial incentive whatsoever to drive slowly 
to save fuel, or have the car tuned up. 

Result? Over 60 % of new UK cars are bought by companies. The manufacturers 
design their cars to this 'fleet' market - and also their prices. The latter are high, but 
a bulk buyer can be offered a large discount. No such luck for Joe Public - who 
might be offered a token discount. Hence most new cars bought by individuals tend 
to be small cars.

A second result is that over 75% of petrol is used by people who aren't paying for 
it. Because petrol is so expensive here, the rest of the users, who numerically are 
in the majority but do comparatively little mileage, are generally all too well aware 
of unnecessary usage and couldn't do more than tinker at the margins of their 
annual mileage or state of tune. So an increase in tax would have little effect - I 
would guess doubling the price would only have a 5% impact, and then only for a 
temporary period.

Put a prohibitive tax on company cars, force the manufacturers to spec and price 
them for the individual and then a fuel tax might have an effect. Other than that all 
that would happen is that many people would get pissed off for little environmental 
impact.

Cheers,

Dave Wood.

------------------------------

From: John Elmgreen <100353.1733@compuserve.com>
Date: 23 Apr 96 09:59:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Copy of: XKs

- ---------- Forwarded Message ----------

From:	INTERNET:Dphdcpe@aol.com, INTERNET:Dphdcpe@aol.com
TO:	John Elmgreen, 100353,1733
DATE:	22-4-96 11:15 PM

RE:	Re: Copy of: XKs

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To: 100353.1733@compuserve.com
Subject: Re: Copy of: XKs

John, 

Please add me on your XK list. I own a 1960 XK150 Drophead Vin S838756DN,
Engine number VA1650-9, Body  P8288, Gearbox JLS45693JS, Carmine Red with
Black Interior and black hood. Built 14 March 60. This car scored 99.40 at
last years JCNA show at Coatsville, Pa. and it never had a ground up. The
judges loved the originality of the car although I felt that the car would
only score a 96 or 97. The seats in the car are still the original in
excellent condition and it upsets me when replacement seats that 
naturally look better than mine contributes to a better score.

Terry K. Wagner
RD #9 Box 37
Reading, Pa. 

------------------------------

From: John Elmgreen <100353.1733@compuserve.com>
Date: 23 Apr 96 09:59:51 EDT
Subject: XJ6 Book

	Jim Isbell:  have you looked at the indexes I did for the first 200 Jag
Lovers digests?  They are on the WWW site.  Any problems downloading, Nick can
fix. 
	 Regards,  John Elmgreen

------------------------------

From: John Elmgreen <100353.1733@compuserve.com>
Date: 23 Apr 96 09:59:53 EDT
Subject: Terry Wagner - XK150

	Dear Terry, Thanks for becoming part of this little group.  I will
circulate your note to the others with details of your wonderful sounding 150.
Copy everyone on all queries or answers/comments.
	To all:  I had a letter today from Bruce Carnachan whom some of you know
- - he is the XK120 Registrar for the Classic Jaguar Association and hugely
knowledgable re all things to do with 120s, esp. the peculiarities of the early
cars.  Apart from many interesting comments that I will not attempt to summarise
here (I will see if my secretary can put his letter on disk sometime and
circulate it), he expects shortly to be on email. As he is an enthusiastic
correspondent, we can expect some interesting material I am sure.  By the way,
he is trying to locate XK120s 671650 and 674875.  He sent me a copy of the
original 1954 sales invoice for the latter, which the original owner is trying
to locate: noted the "part chrome wire wheels - $90" factory fitted option.  The
list price was $3520.  Re 671650, Bruce has the original owners manual and wants
to reunite it with the car - a noble sentiment!  But a bit of a needle in a
haystack ...
	Regards,  John Elmgreen.

------------------------------

From: Peter Pesch <pesch@grendel.astr.cwru.edu>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 09:57:15 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Misc.

Hello to all.  Have a few comments and a question.

1)  I also saw the article in Saturday's New York Times about the
1963 E that is now on display.  I agree with Norm deCarteret.  
Muschamp's article struck me as utter rubbish.

2)  Electric Cars.  One must take into consideration that producing
electric power to charge the batteries (if batteries are used) also
contributes pollution.  A systems approach would include this 
pollution in evaluating the benefits of battery run cars.  I don't
know what the anser is, and have no axe to grind.  Just feel that
the whole process has to be considered, not just the end-point pollution.

3)  Safety and crumple zones.  Clearly, as some of you have noted, the
first goal is try to avoid a collision.  However, it seems to me that
an old and massive car in a collision with a very low mass car (with
or without crumple zones) is safer than the low-mass one, because the
low mass object will in fact, crumple.

4)  This past week-end brought the first decent weather to north east
Ohio, and I woke up 3 of my cats from their winter hibernation.  While
driving the 1985 XJ-S, I again missed my cruise control, which has been
inoperative for some time.  The diagnosis of my trusted repair person is
that I need a whole new unit (the bellows stuff).  This has not been
replaced because of the high cost.  My question is, hasn't any of the
very clever people on this list come up with a cheaper replacement?  Or
substitute?  Or solution?

Cheers,  Peter Pesch
1959 XK 150 fhc
1967 XK E 2+2
1976 XJV8L
1985 XJ S

------------------------------

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #55
*******************************

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jag-lovers-digest          Tuesday, 23 April 1996       Volume 02 : Number 056

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: kboetzer@auspex.com (Ken Boetzer)
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 13:25:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Old cars et al

Ken says;

<This is why the gas tax is perfect for this. Drive more pay more. This doesn't
<seem terribly obfuscated to me. Drive a heavy gass guzzler pay more. Drive
<a small fuel efficient car pay less.

  I think what Larry is saying is that taxes will be collected Perportedly to
pay for road maint./environmental cleaning/ or whatever the public wants to
hear. But then the money would rely be given to, for example, the Government
Health branch that uses our tax dollars to write propaganda about how important
it is for us to have gun control and remove all guns from good citizens.

  LLoyd -I'm with the government.   I'm here to help.-

Ken

------------------------------

From: lwalden@ebmud.com (Lee Walden)
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 07:47:46 -0700
Subject: Re: Auto vs. Manual, part II

At 02:44 1996/04/23 -0400, Kirby Palm wrote:
>>  If there's an automatic transmission that offers, say 98% the
>>performance of a manual, would anyone still prefer to drive a
>>manual? If so, for what reasons? (other than idealogy or stubbornness.)
>
>One major reason: When you are in a four wheel drift in a turn with your
>foot deep in the throttle, having the damn thing shift can send you into the
>trees.  A manual will NOT shift when you don't want it to!
>
>What I'm really hoping will eventually happen is that somebody will couple
a >conventional manual transmission to a torque convertor, and use
>microprocessor-controlled servos to shift it.  That should bring the
internal >losses back down within reason.
>
What about a "beefier" version of the "slapstick" automatic VW put in the
beetle a couple of years ago?  This tranny drove like a manual, but it
didn't have a pedal operated clutch.  The cluth was somehow incorporated
into the gearshifter.  When you applied pressure to the gearshift, the
clutch disengaged, you changed gears, and when you released pressure on the
shifter, the clutch engaged.  You could put the unit into "automatic" and it
drove like any other automatic transmission.  My friend liked to drive the
"manual" mode better.  "Loads of fun" or as much fun as you can have with a
"no performance" VW Beetle.  Lee

------------------------------

From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 96 16:04:49 PDT
Subject: Auto vs. Manual, part II

Roger asks;

<Question:
<
<  If there's an automatic transmission that offers, say 98% the
<performance of a manual, would anyone still prefer to drive a
<manual? If so, for what reasons? (other than idealogy or stubbornness.)

  Personally, I would have to drive it to see. There is not a more out-of-
control feeling than driving an automatic on a narrow,winding icy mountain
road.
  One of my worst experiences was driving my dads car in a snow storm. I
started up the car and made my way down to the intersection and stopped.
Then I started to turn left. The automatic choke was still partially on and
I had to ride the brakes to keep the car from creeping foreward too fast.
You probably know what happened. The front brake locked up and the front
skidded toward the ditch. Releasing the brakes just drove me more toward the di
tch. So I went brakes-on brakes-off brakes-on brakes-off right into the ditch
bending a tie rod. A two M.P.H. accident that could have been avoided if
I had a clutch.
  Brakes: With a standard I can get over 100,000 miles to a set of pads. With
an automatic, you are essentially riding the brakes all the time when in
traffic. To me, this is not fun.
  Controlling shift points: Whether going up hill or down hill, going into a
turn or coming out, wet, icy road conditions, anything other than "normal"
driving, an automatic tranny puts a damper between you and the road. I like
to "feel" the road through my accelerator pedal; especially  on wet or icy
roads. You simply cannot "feel" the road with an automatic. It is impossible
because of the torque converter slop.
  Naw, give me direct contact between the car and road any day. I learned to
drive on the mountain roads of Colorado, and the feel of the car is important
to me.  I may be the
last person on earth who wants to "drive" a car instead of "ride" in it.  When
I get too weak to push the clutch pedal in I'll be too weak to drive.

    LLoyd     -flame suit on, zipper up-

------------------------------

From: Larry Lee <leelarr@mail.auburn.edu>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 10:50:57 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Old cars et al

On Mon, 22 Apr 1996, Ken Boetzer wrote:

> 
> > On Fri, 19 Apr 1996, Ryan Border wrote:
> > 
> > > My $0.02 on:  Safety, crumple zones, old cars, etc...
> > > 
> > > There is another solution to this whole problem- we just don't like it
> > > very much.  Increase the gas tax to reflect true costs of pollution and 
> > > put the money towards cleaning things up.
> > 
> > One more time!!!  The main reason (IMHO the ONLY reason) for taxes is to 
> > raise the money necessary to operate government--NOT to micro-manage 
> > every citizen's life.  While I am in total agreement that the true cost 
> > of any endeavor--and transportation is a glaring example here--should be 
> > borne by the practitioners or users of that endeavor, trying to cover 
> > those costs through taxation only obfuscates the true and total cost.
> 
> This is why the gas tax is perfect for this. Drive more pay more. This doesn't
> seem terribly obfuscated to me. Drive a heavy gass guzzler pay more. Drive
> a small fuel efficient car pay less. 
> 
> > To be truly effective, the total cost should be reflected in the price 
> > that consumers see and pay.  Only then can they make informed economic 
> > decisions.  Including part of the cost of anything in a tax masks that 
> > and robs the consumer of vital information.
> 
> See above.
> 
>   Then some government type 
> > steps in to say, "Trust me.  I'll handle it for you.  Just don't ask 
> > questions."
> > 
> 
> Since I can't build the raod myself I guess I'll have to count on someone to
> take care of it. I'm not real enthusiastic about toll roads everywhere. That
> would be an alternative to govt doing it. Forming transportation associations
> might work, but I don't think so. I notice the usual complaning here and of
> course the usual lack of alternative propositions. Of course we could form a
> militia and march around alot.
> 
> > Good law should state the results desired rather than simply create 
> > another way to funnel additional funds to lawmakers and bureaucrats who 
> > will squander it away trying to develop biased regulations.  Need an 
> > example?  Just look how well they've done with the Superfund money.  Does 
> > anybody even know how much has been spent, or what it bought?
> 
> Facinating observation but not really part of the issue at hand. 
> 
> > 
> > Larry Lee
> 
> Bitching and moaning, along with sweeping generalities is the easy part. I'm
> trying to teach my kids that. My 14 year old is coming along quite well. The 10
> year old needs work.
> 
> Ken
> 

This thread started off talking about pollution, not road construction, 
and my initial comments were in response to that.  An increased tax on 
fuel will make driving more expensive, but it will not result in 
substantially reduced driving.  Thus, it would have no great impact on 
automotive pollution.  As evidence, look at what happened after the 1970s 
oil embargo.  The change was nowhere near what the anti-automobile folks 
believed would happen, and the economic problem was "solved" through 
devaluation (inflation).  I guess you could make gasoline cost 
$100/gallon and show 'em a thing or two, but I don't think either 
citizens or politicians are enthusiastic about what that would do to the 
economy.  Pollution reductions have come through better fuels, improved 
emission controls on vehicles, and improved vehicle efficiency.  We pay 
higher prices for cars, but taxes don't provide this technology.

If you want to get onto the topic of funding roads, lets look at what 
trucks do to them versus what they pay in taxes/user fees.  I've seen 
stickers on the backs of many trucks bragging about how they pay 
something like $4,500/year (U.S.) in road use taxes.  Depending on which 
of many studies you like, ONE pass of an 80,000 lb truck does as much 
damage to a road as between 7,000 and 10,000 (there are, no doubt, 
additional numbers available, but they are all high) passes of my 4,000 
lb Jaguar.  The typical truck probably drives--conservatively--ten times 
as many miles/year as I do.  If the truck was paying his fair share of 
his lifeline, my yearly road tax would be about a nickel.  It's not as 
bad for busses, but the subsidy is still quite heavy.  Estimates from 
research units like the National Center of Asphalt Technology indicate 
that initial construction of a mile of interstate highway is about ten 
times what it has to be for cars in order to accomodate trucks.  (And 
these guys want their trucks bigger and heavier.)  These costs do not 
show up in the price of shipping something, or someone, by truck or bus.  
We are already subsidizing them HEAVILY.  The same thing happens with air 
and water transportation, except the taxes come through different ways.

My comments about how total costs should be borne by users was based on 
this.  Of course governments are an effective means to build and maintain 
roads, but that shouldn't have to mean an unlimited fleecing of 
individual taxpayers.  Trucks and busses should pay for the damage they do, 
and that cost should be reflected in their rates.  No one knows what it 
really costs to move anyone or anything around today, largely because 
of the various costs that are hidden in a variety of subsidies (taxes).  
If that's not obfuscation, I don't know what is!

I'd be more than happy to pay my fair share.  At this point, even two or 
three times my fair share would be a vast improvement!  Let me keep the 
extra tax, along with the costs of collection, and I'll gladly pay the 
true cost of carriage for what I directly and indirectly use.

BTW, good law is much more than "fascinating."  Whether or not a law is 
good (fair) is a vital part of any question involving taxation.  It's 
OUR money, not the government's, to begin with.

This is probably a massive waste of Jag-Lovers bandwidth, so, if I've 
upset anyone because of it, please accept my apologies.  (Because of how 
this has developed, I couldn't come up with a good way to delete enough 
of the earlier messages to do any good.)  These are, however, issues that 
affect us all, and I think it's vitally important that each of us 
research/think/debate them thoroughly.

Larry Lee

------------------------------

From: "Himes,John W." <jwh@dw.att.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 96 08:33:00 PDT
Subject: antenna

John J. Lynch wrote:

>Here's some info for the group concerning a problem I fixed on my 1989 XJ-S
>V-12.  Several times this winter I got into my car only to find that my new
>battery died overnight.  Unable to locate any obvious accessories left on 
or
>any unusual current drains,  I wrote off the problem as just another Lucas
>gremlin.  Several weeks ago the occasional problem turned into an everyday
>affair.  Unable to devote any time to locating the problem I resorted to
>pulling the ground lug off the battery after using the car.
> (Pain in the ass but it worked.)  When the weather in New Jersey broke a 
few
>weeks ago I got out the old ohm meter and went out to work to locate the
>problem.  Turns out my power antenna was the culprit.  It was draining 
about
>2.3 amps after the power was off.  Although I haven't opened up the thing 
to
>determine exactly why, I think it's safe to assume that the contact 
signaling
>the relay that the antenna is fully retracted isn't working.

     A simple fix for this is to remove the fuse in the trunk / boot to the 
power antenna.
Best done with the antenna fully up so you can still listen to your favorite 
stations.
I have done this, but for a different reason.  With some slight bends in my 
antenna most likely due to high speed wind resistance, the antenna does not 
go fully down.  Then it will not go fully up.  Someday I will give in and 
spend the money for a replacement.

John Himes
LUCENT TECHNOLOGIES
"We make the things that make communications work"

88 XJ-S 93K miles ;-)

------------------------------

From: Tom Walker <Tjwal@cris.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 12:23:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Past Posting

The other day somebody posted a message regarding their experience with a
"gentleman" from Lake Bluff, I believe his name was "Doc" in regards to some
autos they had purchased from him.

Anyway to make a long story short, I've found somebody that had similar
experiences with who we believe to be the person, and I wanted to show him
the posting that was put on the list.  But, lo and behold, it would seem
that I deleted the message, anybody out there keep the message, or perhaps
the original poster could send a copy to me directly????

Tom Walker
Tjwal@concentric.net
82 XJS HE

------------------------------

From: kboetzer@auspex.com (Ken Boetzer)
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 09:48:10 -0700
Subject: Re: Old cars et al

SNIP
> Estimates from 
> research units like the National Center of Asphalt Technology indicate 
> that initial construction of a mile of interstate highway is about ten 
> times what it has to be for cars in order to accomodate trucks.  (And 
> these guys want their trucks bigger and heavier.)  These costs do not 
> show up in the price of shipping something, or someone, by truck or bus.  
> We are already subsidizing them HEAVILY.  The same thing happens with air 
> and water transportation, except the taxes come through different ways.
> 
> My comments about how total costs should be borne by users was based on 
> this.  Of course governments are an effective means to build and maintain 
> roads, but that shouldn't have to mean an unlimited fleecing of 
> individual taxpayers.  Trucks and busses should pay for the damage they do, 
> and that cost should be reflected in their rates.  No one knows what it 
> really costs to move anyone or anything around today, largely because 
> of the various costs that are hidden in a variety of subsidies (taxes).  
> If that's not obfuscation, I don't know what is!
> 
> I'd be more than happy to pay my fair share.  At this point, even two or 
> three times my fair share would be a vast improvement!  Let me keep the 
> extra tax, along with the costs of collection, and I'll gladly pay the 
> true cost of carriage for what I directly and indirectly use.
> 
> BTW, good law is much more than "fascinating."  Whether or not a law is 
> good (fair) is a vital part of any question involving taxation.  It's 
> OUR money, not the government's, to begin with.
> 
> This is probably a massive waste of Jag-Lovers bandwidth, so, if I've 
> upset anyone because of it, please accept my apologies.  (Because of how 
> this has developed, I couldn't come up with a good way to delete enough 
> of the earlier messages to do any good.)  These are, however, issues that 
> affect us all, and I think it's vitally important that each of us 
> research/think/debate them thoroughly.  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>                                                      
> Larry Lee                                            ^
                                                       |
Best point of all.-------------------------------------|

I suspect that the true cost of doing business has been difficult to determine
until just a few years ago. The current road system has been in place for an
amazingly short time. Our knowledge about it is increasing all the time. As is
evidenced by some of what I have seen in the media not enough is spent on
maintenance which results in premature failure, bridges rusting etc. (Not that
the media is the best possible source of information.)

I understand better what you were getting at. I also agree we should be applying
the knowedge to the system to improve it. We can only hope to elect politicians
who will try to linearize the system to all our benefit. (Good luck right?)

Cheers,

Ken

------------------------------

From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 96 9:54:07 PDT
Subject: Re: Interchangeability of doors on Series 2 and Series 3

>Does any one know if a front door of a 1976 XJ12L Series 2 wil fit a 1983
>XJ6 Series 3?  They look the same but it's hard to tell.

I don't think so. Well, it might fit, but they won't look the same.
For one thing, the door handle on a series III (flush-mounted) is different 
from a series II. The door panel on the inside will also look different.
The window frame might not look the same either.

Why not just look for a series III door? I'm sure it isn't difficult to
find one. 

- -- 
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Roger Peng                                     (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 13:00:49 -0400
Subject: Re: XJ-S # of seats and 5-speed market

- --IMA.Boundary.149872038
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Description: cc:Mail note part

In reply to Terry's comments about the number of seats in the XJ-S and 
the market for 5-speeds:

I can't imagine why you say the XJ-S was a two seater until the '91 
model year.  Every US market XJ-S I've ever heard of was a 2+2 until 
the -SC came along as a two seater.  Subsequently, the convertibles 
were also two-seaters until '91.  Since the rear seats in the 
convertible are even less useful that the coupe (the coupe will seat 
an adult legless dwarf in the back, whereas the convertible will only 
seat a preadolescent legless dwarf) I couldn't imagine why the company 
bothered.  I was told by the local dealer that it was done for 
insurance reasons, to get the car out of the high performance two-seat 
category.

As for the five speed.  The XJ-S wasn't offered in the US (certainly 
one of its major markets) with a manual transmission.  Even if it had 
been, I doubt many would have been sold since manufacturers and 
dealers avoid building and stocking manual transmission cars like the 
plague.

For example, the only way you can get a Toyota Camry with a 5-speed in 
the US is to get the stripped 4 cyl. model.  A year or two ago you 
could get a 5-speed with the V-6, but only in the SE model.  When my 
wife and I were looking, the dealer could only locate one in a five 
state area.  Every dealer we visited had the same story:  They could 
sell every V-6 5-speed they could get their hands on.  A lot of 
customers wanted them, but the factory built very few and dealer 
management wouldn't order 5-speeds for stock except in the low-end 4 
cylinder model.  We finally decided to get another Honda (our old one 
now has over 330,000 miles, approximately 550,000 kilometers) and got 
similar stories from the Honda dealers.  Honda doesn't make a manual 
V-6 Accord, although the salespeople all say a lot of customers ask 
for one.  You can get a 5-speed 4-cyl. VTEC EXL, which we bought, but 
we had to wait for one in the desired color since the dealer stocks 
very few 5-speed Accords except in the bottom model.  The day we 
bought ours the dealer had about two hundred Accords, but only one 
5-speed EXL on the lot.  He had some coming, including two in our 
color, which the salesman said would be snapped up immediately.

If you can't get the car you want with a 5-speed, then I would imagine 
sales of 5-speed models will be very low.  A self-fulfilling prophecy.

MikeC
m.cogswell@zds.com 

__________________________ Reply Separator ___________________________

From: TezFair@aol.com
Date: Sun, 21 Apr 1996 15:44:38 -0400
Subject: XK8 screen saver and updated home page

<snip>

As for the debate about the XK8's Niches,  

<snip>

I fitted the propshaft to the XJS and since Xmas I only fitted
2 manual propshafts in 1700 cars. So where is the market for manuals?

As for backseats, The S was a real 2 seater for many years, and it 
wasn't until 1991MY and the last major face lift that it became a 2+2.

Terry Fairbrother
- --IMA.Boundary.149872038--

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 13:37:38 -0400
Subject: Pollution

>2)  Electric Cars.  One must take into consideration that producing
>electric power to charge the batteries (if batteries are used) also
>contributes pollution.  A systems approach would include this 
>pollution in evaluating the benefits of battery run cars.  I don't
>know what the anser is, and have no axe to grind.  Just feel that
>the whole process has to be considered, not just the end-point pollution.

Perhaps.  However, it should be noted that a high percentage of our
pollution woes are local, not world-wide.  For example: if you could replace
a significant percentage of the autos in the LA valley with electrics, and
the power to recharge these electrics was generated OUTSIDE the valley, you
would have in fact accomplished a good thing.  But, as far as I know, this
is not the intent of any of the legislation involved; they generally
extrapolate local pollution issues as being national or worldwide, and
require electric cars everywhere rather than just where they might do some good.

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 13:37:43 -0400
Subject: Brakes

>1. I was astounded at Kirby's comments about wanting a brake test on cars
every 
>year. Don't you have one already?? We have had something called the annual 
>MOT test for over thirty years, and which has gradually been upgraded to
cover a 
>comprehensive collection of things; brakes, including handrake, footbrake, 
>individual wheel operation, rotor corrosion, brake pipes, etc.; steering and 
>suspension, including dampers, bushes, corrosion; bodywork, where
structural or 
>including dangerous protrusions; seat belt function and condition; exhaust 
>condition, emissions, noise; lights function; tyre wear and condition; no
doubt lots 
>of other things too. Don't you have such a test?

Here in the US, most of these things are done on a state-by-state basis,
although trends develop and all states often end up on a similar scheme.

Here in FL, we used to have such a test.  It was abandoned, however, when it
was shown statistically that it was having no effect on accident rates and
couldn't justify the cost to taxpayers or motorists.

It was a good idea, of course, just badly implemented.  In the braking
portion of the test, it generally determined only if the brakes worked at
all, rather than if they worked right.  I had a Sunbeam Alpine pass with
ease, and it needed pads and rotor turning badly.  My foster father's AMX
also passed, and required a $250 brake rebuild within weeks.  And a friend
with a Lotus Europa couldn't pass the tests, the machines said he had no
brakes, even though he could happily lock all fours in the parking lot; the
machine just wouldn't register a 1100 pound car.

However, what I'm suggesting here has nothing to do with vehicle
inspections.  The crashworthiness tests are performed by the federal gov't
on examples of new cars for sale, and a car must pass to be sold in this
country.  I'm suggesting that this test be altered to reflect braking
ability in addition to crumpling ability.

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 13:37:41 -0400
Subject: Cruise Control

>While
>driving the 1985 XJ-S, I again missed my cruise control, which has been
>inoperative for some time.  The diagnosis of my trusted repair person is
>that I need a whole new unit (the bellows stuff).  This has not been
>replaced because of the high cost.  My question is, hasn't any of the
>very clever people on this list come up with a cheaper replacement?  Or
>substitute?  Or solution?

This has been a standing question in my XJ-S help booklet.  In it, I point
out that it wouldn't be difficult to fit a generic aftermarket cruise
control unit, but it would probably look like hell; I don't see how you
could use the original switches, and would have to mount the tacky
aftermarket control inside somewhere.

It seems to me there should be a way to adapt a generic bellows such as
those used on common Chevys, but I don't know anyone who's tried it.

My booklet does give enough info that you could confirm exactly what is
wrong with your unit.  If the bellows itself is bad, it can be purchased
separately -- not cheap, but within reason.  The only other components are
two solenoids with tiny valves, and with a little ingenuity it should be
possible to fix whatever is wrong there -- even if it involves rewinding a
solenoid.

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 96 10:47:37 PDT
Subject: Re: Auto vs. Manual, part II 

| 
| The problem with any auto box, of course, is that it is programmed for
| some set of "standard" conditions and uses, and doesn't anticipate or
| react to nonstandard situations the way a human does.
| 
| Chip

The issue then is, do you want a car built for the majority of the
situations, or do you want a car built for the very occasional situations?

Would you drive around in a RV just so that you can go camping
once a year?

- -- 
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Roger Peng                                     (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman Wing)
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 00:15:17 -0400
Subject: Re: Clunkers, zero-emissions

 I can piggyback some info. to this;

<bronchiolitis. I only have data from 1968, which shows that LA regularly
<exceeded .25ppm, which can cause eye irritation and respiratory
<difficulties. I would imagine that these figures are higher now. Ozone also
<has very negative effects on agriculture in concentrations as little as .05
<ppm.

   About ten years ago a study was done on first graders in the LA area. Chest
x-rays were taken and studied. On virtually every child who had grown up in LA,
their x-ray showed incomplete development and dark spots on the lungs.
  For obvious reasons, the study was not publicized.
  ...BTW, for you non-US folks, first grade is age six.

  LLoyd

------------------------------

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #56
*******************************

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jag-lovers-digest         Wednesday, 24 April 1996      Volume 02 : Number 057

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 02:44:35 -0400
Subject: Re: Auto vs. Manual, part II

Yea Kirby;

<One major reason: When you are in a four wheel drift in a turn with your
<foot deep in the throttle, having the damn thing shift can send you into the
<trees.  A manual will NOT shift when you don't want it to!

  Instances where I can drive my car to it's limits make it impsooible to
keep the rear end where I want it with an automatic. The rear wheels either
get ahead or behind. There is no positive connection between engine/road.

<However, there is also questionable validity to your question.  I have yet
<to see an automatic that offers more than about 70% of the performance of a
<manual, either speed or fuel economy.  I have a 5-speed in my XJ-S, and can

  I think you are being VERY generous with that 70% figure.  Either you feel
the road through the throttle pedal or you don't.
  When you need a certain amount of acceleration or decelleration to hold on,
a torque converter can only make it worse.

    LLoyd

------------------------------

From: David J Shield <David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 96 12:15:00 PDT
Subject: question for the group

Hi,

My neighbor is looking at a Jag for the first time.  I explained to her 
that owning a Jag - any Jag - carries with it a 'responsibility' to 
maintain it.  Responsibility translates into maintain it or be sorry.

She's looking at a 1991 XJ6 VDP with 37K miles on it.  It's at the 
Jaguar dealership for $17K.  Assuming it's had immaculate maintenance 
(dunno, but let's assume that it has), what can she expect over the next 
5-8 years of ownership?  Usage profile will be lots of short trips to 
work (10 miles), taking kids to school in the morning (1 mile), errands, 
etc.  We live in a hilly area.

Questions follow:

How long do brakes last?  Cost to replace, with shop time?

How about the drivetrain?  Will the transmission fade as the SIII BWs do 
(every 60K miles)?

Being such a heavy car, what about tires and suspension components?

And, is the A/C system robust?

What about random failures?  Are the electricals reliable?

Any known danger signals to look out for?

I think she's sold on the emotional angle, but afraid of the financial 
angle.  Please reply to the list or separately to me - thanks!

David J. Shield
'84 XJ6 VDP
'87 Volvo 745TGA
- ----------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: tony goodall <tony@goodall.u-net.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 20:31:55 +0100
Subject: Re: Auto vs. Manual in XK8

At 23:49 22/04/96 +0100, rpeng@cadev6.intel.com wrote:
>
>  Personally, I'd prefer an automatic. I like driving a Jaguar 
>to be an effortless experience; there's too much traffic around 
>town for manual transmission to be enjoyable. These days, automatic 
>transmissions are getting really good anyways, so it becomes a reasonable 
>choice even for the enthusiast.

I agree,
I was forced to try autos, because of a (luckily left) knee injury
Previously, I was had the typical English "autos are for people who can't drive"
mentality. 
Now, even if my knee was OK, I would want an auto for 6.5 days a week, 
and a manual for 0.5 days.

cheers
tony
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dr. A. Goodall       http://www.u-net.com/~goodall/
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

From: tony goodall <tony@goodall.u-net.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 20:32:01 +0100
Subject: Re: Auto vs. Manual, part II

At 00:04 23/04/96 +0100, rpeng@cadev6.intel.com wrote:

>  , an automatic tranny puts a damper between you and the road. I like
>to "feel" the road through my accelerator pedal; especially  on wet or icy
>roads. You simply cannot "feel" the road with an automatic. It is impossible
>because of the torque converter slop.
>  Naw, give me direct contact between the car and road any day. I learned to

ah - but what about on a wet motorway at 85mph, when you need to brake 
or slow suddenly. Do you want the engine braking at the back, if you
don't get to the clutch in time?

mind you, I don't drive the auto in the snow if I can help it!

cheers
tony
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dr. A. Goodall       http://www.u-net.com/~goodall/
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

From: tony goodall <tony@goodall.u-net.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 20:31:56 +0100
Subject: Re: Auto vs. Manual, part II

At 07:44 23/04/96 +0100, Kirby Palm wrote:

>However, there is also questionable validity to your question.  I have yet
>to see an automatic that offers more than about 70% of the performance of a
>manual, either speed or fuel economy. 

1990 toyota supra,       ----     supra turbo
auto/manual
max speed   131/131     ----   153/153
0-60            8.1/8.1        ----     6.1/6.1
fuel-urban:   20.0/21.2      ----       19.2/19.6
fuel-56mph: 35.8/36.7      ----         36.7/35.3
fuel-75mph: 28.8/29.4       ----        28.2/27.4
auto weighs 25kg extra       ----    auto 10kg extra

figures from toyota literature

I got similar ratings with my 1987 GM Omega 3.0i 
(UK model - senator, Europe-omega)

now, the bigger the engine, the  better the auto box's 
performance. With the widened torque bands, the auto
can be engineered to exceed the performance of most 
people's driving of normal manual boxes.

However, I wouldn't use one on a rally car, off road!!

BTW the kick down at 80mph+ is fun on our motorways!!

cheers
tony
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dr. A. Goodall       http://www.u-net.com/~goodall/
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 15:37:52 -0500
Subject: Brakes and MOT tests

In Texas the stoping distance is measured from a given speed along with a
myriad of other things once a year.

But, and I stress this, BUT, it has been shown by statistics that the number
of accidents caused by mechanical failure is so small, less than 1%, that
such testing (which costs $12 per year to the consumer) is virtualy
worthless.  It would make more sense to test the driving skills of the
drivers.  It is stupid drivers or at least stupid responses to situations
which cause 99.9% of all accidents.

                                                    Jim

===================================================
 " Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"         

 John Wayne    

P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
===================================================          

------------------------------

From: Stefan Schulz <jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 22:40:29 GMT
Subject: Re: Higher Taxes, Anyone?

In message <199604211940.AA18959@gcn.scri.fsu.edu> Kirby Palm writes:
>
> If I were in charge, the building and maintenance of our system of roads in
> this country would come SOLELY from motor vehicle fuel taxes, thereby making
> the user pay for the system.

How about letting private companies build toll roads ?  That way the users
pay, too, without the inherent inefficiencies of resource allocation by
the state.

Regards,
- --
Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk

------------------------------

From: Stefan Schulz <jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 22:43:50 GMT
Subject: Re: Clunkers, zero-emissions

In message <199604220324.AA32100@gcn.scri.fsu.edu> Kirby Palm writes:
> Even using this more lenient definition, I seriously doubt you're gonna get
> any thermal engine (any engine that burns fuel and generates heat to
> operate) to meet the definition of zero emissions.

How about combining nuclear fusion (NOT fission) with peltier elements
or Stirling motors ?  The only emission would be waste heat, that's clean
according to your definition.

(Packaging the units is another matter...)

Regards,
- --
Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk

------------------------------

From: JAShevelew@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 17:38:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Brakes and MOT tests

In a message dated 96-04-23 17:10:56 EDT, JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim
Isbell) writes:

>In Texas the stoping distance is measured from a given speed along with a
>myriad of other things once a year.
>
>But, and I stress this, BUT, it has been shown by statistics that the number
>of accidents caused by mechanical failure is so small, less than 1%, that
>such testing (which costs $12 per year to the consumer) is virtualy
>worthless.  It would make more sense to test the driving skills of the
>drivers.  It is stupid drivers or at least stupid responses to situations
>which cause 99.9% of all accidents.
>
>                                                    Jim

I think that Jim may really be onto something here.  I bet if we tested
driver skills instead of the mechanical conditions of their vehicles we could
also alleviate road congestion in our major cities.

Jonathon
'93 XJ6 VDP
'96 Explorer (for the wife)
'94 Bonneville (for the daughter

------------------------------

From: Chris Howard <christopher@netmanage.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 96 14:48:26 GST
Subject: Placement of Aftermarket 1984 xj6 hood ornament

Thanks to the excellent resources here I finally called Welsh Jaguar and ordered a new antenna for Tiffany (1984 xj6 vp) and also had them throw in a hood ornament, question is what is the most standard placement of the ornament ? i guess the best measurement would be from the top of the grill
chrome to the ornament, gime me some ideas .... thanks ahead of time.

- ------------------------------------------------
Christopher Howard
E-mail: christopher@netmanage.com
4/23/96                              2:48:26 PM

Chameleon - The Best Windows TCP/IP applications
Chameleon - The Best MacOS TCP/IP applications
WebSurfer - The Best Web Browser
ECCO      - The Best Workgroup productivity tool
Swift     - The Best Terminal Emulation Suite
NewtWatch - The Best Desktop Management 
- ----------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 18:13:11 -0400
Subject: Taxes for Roads

>> ...initial construction of a mile of interstate highway is about ten 
>> times what it has to be for cars in order to accomodate trucks.
>> Trucks and busses should pay for the damage they do, 
>> and that cost should be reflected in their rates.

I suspect the only really fair way to apply a tax system here would be as
follows:  Each year when you renew your tag, the odometer reading is taken
and compared to the value from the previous year.  The total number of miles
driven, combined with the weight of the vehicle, are combined to determine
your tax.  The tax scale is not linear by weight, but rather increases
exponentially with the weight of the car.

This'd be great, and fair, but there are logistical problems galore.  I
suggest that paying for road maintenance and expansion with taxes on motor
fuel might not be quite as fair, but it'd be a lot easier to implement --
and it'd be a damn sight fairer than the present system!

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: "Lauren E. Pratt" <pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 96 13:51:33 PDT
Subject: RE: Safty and smog tests 

Dito Kerby, the yearly safety test was also thrown out in 
Colorado because it could not be proven it to be cost effective.

So to keep the money going to the service stations, they
instituted a smog test, which is now under contract to a
New Jersey company.  (The feds like it better.)

I think both tests are OK if done every 2 years and in moderation
so you will not have the horror stories you read about here.
- -------------------------------------
Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 4/23/96
Time: 1:51:33 PM

This message was sent by Chameleon 
- -------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: David J Shield <David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 96 15:14:00 PDT
Subject: Cruise Control  [XJ series]

Peter wrote:

>4)  This past week-end brought the first decent weather to north east
>Ohio, and I woke up 3 of my cats from their winter hibernation.  While
>driving the 1985 XJ-S, I again missed my cruise control, which has been
>inoperative for some time.  The diagnosis of my trusted repair person 
>is that I need a whole new unit (the bellows stuff).  This has not been
>replaced because of the high cost.  My question is, hasn't any of the
>very clever people on this list come up with a cheaper replacement?  Or
>substitute?  Or solution?

>Cheers,  Peter Pesch

Peter,

The cruise control bellows on my '84 XJ6 had begun to dry out and lose 
the vacuum seal at the ends due to intense heat on that side of the 
engine.  Shocked at the price of a new bellows, I decided to try to fix 
it first, and if I botched it I could then go pay the ~$60 for a new 
bellows.  The bellows had stretched at the ends, but was otherwise not 
too bad.  ascii art follows:

               /\  /\  /\         
     ________ /  \/  \/  \_______   
    | |                        | |    should look like
    |||                        |||    <-------- 
     |                          | 
     |<--- metal end plates --->|

       Cross-sections of bellows new and old

               /\  /\  /\         
     ________ /  \/  \/  \_______   
    / |                        | \    effects of aging
   / ||                        || \   <--------
     |                          |   <--- air leaked in here 
     |<--- metal end plates --->|

I cleaned it and the metal end pieces of grease, and used red RTV 
silicone rubber to glue it on.  I used a large hose clamp at each end 
while the glue cured, this did a good job of flattening the outer edges 
back inward for a good seal and better aesthetic result.

I think a black silicone would probably work but at the time I most 
concerned about temperature and chemical resistance.  I've used the red 
stuff at 450'C, so I knew it would work.  Black would certainly look 
better, although only a thin bead of red shows.  Maybe I'll dab some 
black silicone rubber over it.

This has held for 5 years.

If you find an exact or work-alike replacement let me know - Jon Heber 
and I are collaborating on a list of OEM replacement parts.  Somebody 
somewhere said this was a GM part......  Kirby, was that you?

David

------------------------------

From: TezFair@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 18:34:47 -0400
Subject: auto to manual conversion

Juliansean asked:

<<I read your note regarding manual propshafts in XJSs.  I have  a 1987 XJS
and have been researching the best way to replace the GM400 with a manual box
of some sort.  Do you have any advice, or sources for how to do this ?>>

Unless anybody esle here at jag-lovers knows otherwise, I would say that it
would be very difficult to change from auto to manual. Things to take into
consideration is that you will need a manual selector base plate that fits on
top of the tunnel, the auto's version is flat. The harness for a manual is
totally different, you require a lead for the reverse light switch, the auto
has a multi way connector and a selector cable, so blanking plates are needed
to block the holes. The ECU's will need to be changed as they were programmed
on a PECUS for auto configuration. The propshaft is a different type, the
auto has flanges either end, the manual has 1 flange(to diff) and splines(to
box). The centre mount is different in shape and position to the auto. Then
there are things like the clutch master cylinder and the pipes that run
around the engine bay. The centre console will need to be changed. So unless
you can get a donor car of the same year and somebody to programme the ECU to
your car (it requires the VIN number as part of the programming) I would say
its a no-no, but this is only the opinion of a jaguar fitter, not a qualified
service engineer, mechanic or specialist. It very well may be able to be done
...but at a price.

<<I didn't know there was any option for manual tranny in late model XJSs.
 Were these two special orders of some sort?>>
As we built cars for all countries there are market trends, the UK for
example tended to have more manuals than any other country. The manual
version was a cost option.

------------------------------

From: Ryan Border <rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 15:59:15 -0700
Subject: Rust Removal

See- I told you that would start a fire.  And so to make up for
it, here's a topic that has nothing to do with old cars, or pollution,
or taxes, or road construction...

What is the best product people have found for removing light 
surface rust from chrome surfaces.  I seem to remember a neighbor of
mine removing rust from a chrome bicycle rim with a Jasco
product- the results were pretty amazing?  Some sort of acid
based concrete cleaner me thinks.

The application: a used wire wheel I've got to use as my spare.
It's pretty grungy, but even though it's just going to live
in my boot, I'd like to get it as cleaned up as possible.  If the
task becomes impossible, I'll just paint it, but it might be interesting
to see if I can get a 10' shine back on it.

Thanks
Ryan.

------------------------------

From: "Brown, Neville (AS01)" <NBrown@p05.as01.honeywell.com.au>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 96 09:25:00 EST
Subject: XJ-S  Heater

Hi
With the weather now cooling down in Australia I had need for some heat 
inside the car,  but you guessed it . . .  heater not working.   The job 
looked too much for me so I put it in the shop.  Turned out to be a Blend 
Flap Motor (upper) had ceased to function.  Apparently the upper unit is 
very expensive to replace as the whole dash had to come out.  Cost $600 for 
labour and $461 for a new Blend Flap Motor.
Anyhow, Murphy's Law has applied as when they put the car back together the 
top unit worked fine, but then the lower unit went on the "blink".   As I 
needed the car that night the they put in a used unit, but with a warning 
that it has a good chance of failure.
The lower unit can be replaced with only 1 or 2 hours labour although the 
motors are identical and therefore the same price.
The unit is badged DELANAIR which I believe is manufactured by Delco in the 
US by GM, and probably used on many GM cars.
My question is . . . . . Does anybody out there know if this is the case? 
  If so I would appreciate any advice on a cheaper replacement.

Thanks in advance

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Neville Brown
XJ-S  1989 V12
ex Mk2 3.8
ex Mk1 2.4
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

From: jello@dns.ida.net (Phil Bates)
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 17:53:09 -0600
Subject: 5-speed market - little jag content

>In reply to Terry's comments about the number of seats in the XJ-S and 
>the market for 5-speeds:
>
>As for the five speed.  The XJ-S wasn't offered in the US (certainly 
>one of its major markets) with a manual transmission.  Even if it had 
>been, I doubt many would have been sold since manufacturers and 
>dealers avoid building and stocking manual transmission cars like the 
>plague.
>
>For example, the only way you can get a Toyota Camry with a 5-speed in 
>the US is to get the stripped 4 cyl. model.  A year or two ago you 
>could get a 5-speed with the V-6, but only in the SE model.  When my 
>wife and I were looking, the dealer could only locate one in a five 
>state area.  Every dealer we visited had the same story:  They could 
>sell every V-6 5-speed they could get their hands on.  A lot of 
>customers wanted them, but the factory built very few and dealer 
>management wouldn't order 5-speeds for stock except in the low-end 4 
>cylinder model.  We finally decided to get another Honda (our old one 
>now has over 330,000 miles, approximately 550,000 kilometers) and got 
>similar stories from the Honda dealers.  Honda doesn't make a manual 
>V-6 Accord, although the salespeople all say a lot of customers ask 
>for one.  You can get a 5-speed 4-cyl. VTEC EXL, which we bought, but 
>we had to wait for one in the desired color since the dealer stocks 
>very few 5-speed Accords except in the bottom model.  The day we 
>bought ours the dealer had about two hundred Accords, but only one 
>5-speed EXL on the lot.  He had some coming, including two in our 
>color, which the salesman said would be snapped up immediately.
>
>If you can't get the car you want with a 5-speed, then I would imagine 
>sales of 5-speed models will be very low.  A self-fulfilling prophecy.
>
>MikeC
>m.cogswell@zds.com 

I'd really like to put a 5 speed in my XJ12C too, but have found this a very 
costly conversion.  

Anyhow, on to modern cars - My father had the same issue with the Camry.  He 
even found the 5 speed SE models, but he is very tall.  The SE only comes 
with a sunroof, and that mad his head hit the roof.  No way to get one with 
a 5 speed and no sunroof.  He ended up with the Lexus version of the Camry, 
with an auto-magic.  He hates that automatic to this day, but contends that 
his Lexus is a great car, and notes it was the low scale model without a 
sunroof.  All of his previous cars had manual transmissions, and I still 
have his former 5 speed '86 Honda accord LX-i --- top of the line, injected, 
and with a 5-speed!

Phil Bates
67 MGB
75 Jaguar XJ12C
52 MG TD replicar (VW)

------------------------------

From: Tony Watts <amw@maths.uq.oz.au>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 10:15:54 +1000
Subject: Auto transmissions

Like several others, I find automatic transmissions unsatisfying and am
quite envious of the people who have an XJ-S or other nice Jaguar with
a manual gearbox.  Perhaps one of these days I might do a conversion.  The only
time I like the auto is for stop/start driving up a steep hill, especially as
most of the cars I have owned have not had good handbrakes.
With a good engine, clutch and gearchange mechanism, I believe I can change
gear manually as smoothly as an automatic.

I wonder though, whether one of the fancy new auto gearboxes like the BMW or
XK8 that allow complete manual control would feel OK.  I don't see any
intrinsic problem with planetary gears.  If the torque converter is made
to lock up above a fairly low speed, as at least some do, that removes
a lot of the inefficiency of the fluid coupling and should provide
reasonable engine braking.

Tony Watts
amw@maths.uq.oz.au

------------------------------

From: Patrick Krejcik <pkr@SLAC.Stanford.EDU>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 17:18:30 -0700
Subject: Re: Rust Removal

Ryan Border wrote:
> What is the best product people have found for removing light
> surface rust from chrome surfaces.  I seem to remember a neighbor of
> mine removing rust from a chrome bicycle rim with a Jasco
> product- the results were pretty amazing?  Some sort of acid
> based concrete cleaner me thinks.
> 
> The application: a used wire wheel I've got to use as my spare.
> It's pretty grungy, but even though it's just going to live
> in my boot, I'd like to get it as cleaned up as possible.  If the
> task becomes impossible, I'll just paint it, but it might be interesting
> to see if I can get a 10' shine back on it.

Any phosphoric acid based product will do the job. An expensive way to 
buy it is in the form of spray on wire wheel cleaner. Spray on, wait, 
hose off. A better way to buy it is as metal preparation etch solution 
from an auto paint store and better hardware stores. I used it 
extensively for myriads of parts when I restored my Jag.
Make sure you don't buy anything with hydrochloric acid in it, which 
eats away the steel as well as the rust.

Cheers, Patrick.

'65 Series I E-Type FHC

------------------------------

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #57
*******************************

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jag-lovers-digest         Wednesday, 24 April 1996      Volume 02 : Number 058

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 17:02:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Old cars, safety, fuel prices, etc

David:

1.      Kirby's comments, at least the ones I saw we about a change to 
the methods used in the US Federal crash tests performed during new 
car development.  He suggested changing the test from a 30 MPH impact 
into a solid wall to a 60 MPH test where the brakes are applied some 
standard distance from the wall, a distance calculated to result in a 
30 MPH impact with nominal brake performance.  I'm not optimistic 
about the utility of such a test.  I suppose that we would probably 
get better brakes (great for us) since the builders would then only 
have to deal with a lower speed impact.  However, I wouldn't be at all 
surprised to see cars designed to only survive the resulting lower 
speed impact.  After all, why exceed the requirement if it costs 
money?  That would clearly not be good for us.  Especially since most 
accident don't involve 90 degree impacts on solid, flat surfaces.  And 
all too often, the real world opportunity to apply the brakes 
sufficiently in advance of impact is taken away by some incredible 
idiot who does the completely unexpected.  My only crash came as a 
result of a woman who made a left turn directly across my path.  The 
functional equivalent of someone in the oncoming lane suddenly turning 
right in front of you.  In my case, she was stopped at the 
intersection, turn signal on, waiting for a break in the traffic flow. 
I was in the flow at about 35 MPH, just entering the intersection, 
when she suddenly took off.  I had no chance to avoid her, and barely 
got down 4 or 5 feet of skid marks before hitting her broadside on the 
front fender just behind the wheel.  The thing that saved me was the 
fact that she was crossing my path, so much of the energy was used by 
bending the front of my car to the right and deflecting my path.  
Kirby's proposed change to the test might very well have killed me.

2.      As for the annual testing, your mileage may vary.  Since every 
power not specifically granted by the Constitution remains with the 
States, each State decides on the licensing and testing standards.  
The Federal Government regulates the manufacture and sale, since they 
specifically have power over interstate commerce.  Once the new car is 
sold, however, it becomes the State that regulates its use.  Here in 
the Commonwealth of Virginia we have an annual safety inspection that 
included essentially the same items you list.  We also have a separate 
emissions test when renewing our license plates (which can be done in 
one or two year intervals, your choice.)  The emissions inspection 
does not apply to vehicles more than 20 years old.  Hence my '74 
E-Type no longer needs a regular emissions test. A few miles away in 
the State of Maryland safety inspections are only done when the car  
changes owners.  The lack of an annual inspection probably explains 
the relatively large amount of debris on Maryland roads.  Things (e.g. 
mufflers) are left to rust and rot until they fall off.  I'm not sure 
what emissions inspections they have, if any.  Some states have no 
inspections at all.

The Federal Government attempts to control these things by withholding 
Federal highway construction money from States that fail to meet the 
Federal requirements.  Since 90% of the money for major road 
construction is Federal, that's a very big stick.

Mike C
m.cogswell@zds.com

- --------------------------- Reply Message ----------------------------

From: David Wood <David.Wood@durham.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 14:33:09 PDT
Subject: Old cars, safety, fuel prices, etc.

Dear all,

Lots of discussion on these topics in the last few days. Now a point 
of view from the UK.

1. I was astounded at Kirby's comments about wanting a brake test on 
cars every year. Don't you have one already?? We have had something 
called the annual MOT test for over thirty years, 

<snip>

Don't you have such a test?

------------------------------

From: "Himes,John W." <jwh@dw.att.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 96 14:34:00 PDT
Subject: Vehicle check out

David Wood wrote:

>Lots of discussion on these topics in the last few days. Now a point of 
view
>from the UK.

>1. I was astounded at Kirby's comments about wanting a brake test on cars
>every
>year. Don't you have one already?? We have had something called the annual
>MOT test for over thirty years, and which has gradually been upgraded to
>cover a comprehensive collection of things; brakes, including handrake, 
footbrake,
>individual wheel operation, rotor corrosion, brake pipes, etc.; steering 
and
>suspension, including dampers, bushes, corrosion; bodywork, where 
structural
>or including dangerous protrusions; seat belt function and condition; 
exhaust
>condition, emissions, noise; lights function; tyre wear and condition; no
>doubt lots of other things too. Don't you have such a test?

     Over 15 years ago here in Colorado, U.S.A. we did have such a test. 
This was repealed and now cars only have to pass an emissions test every 
year or 2 or 3 depending on the age of the car.  If the driver stops his car 
by putting his feet through the floorboard, as long as he does not get into 
a accident, who will know ?  If he does, then he can be sited for operating 
a dangerous vehicle.  I can not state how things are in the 49 other states. 
( just because insurance is mandatory in the state, there are way too many 
that do not have it. No big deal until they hit you or your property )

Regarding Kirby's dislikes of automatic transmissions, here is another 
benefit, well sort of.  If you want to show boat your car and get a ticket, 
rev the engine up to red line or there about and then shift from neutral to 
first.  In a manual, tires spin ( until the clutch goes out ), in a 
automatic, the transmission breaks. ( maybe not the first time, but it will 
)  Try and get a rebuilt transmission with one where the case is cracked.

John Himes

------------------------------

From: jamesc@oasis.novia.net (jc)
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 19:07:16 -0500
Subject: Re: XK 150

>>The seats in the car are still the original in
>>excellent condition and it upsets me when replacement seats that
>>naturally look better than mine contributes to a better score.
>
>Terry,
>
AGREE WHOLEHEARTEDLY WITH DENNIS. DONT WORRY ABOUT THE POINTS OR THE GUY
THAT MAY WALK AWAY WITH THE TROPHY. KEEP YOUR SEATS ORIGINAL. THE GUYS WITH
THE SEAT COVERS WILL BE CALLING YOU TO CHECK ON WHAT'S ORIGINAL. YOU CAN
ALWAYS RESTORE
A BEAT UP CAR BUT YOUR CANT EVER "MAKE" AN ORIGINAL.

JIM CANEDY(SS100,120 RACER,MKV DHC, MK VII,150S,EX2)

------------------------------

From: jamesc@oasis.novia.net (jc)
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 19:20:28 -0500
Subject: TIRES FOR XK150 AND E TYPE

WOULD APPRECIATE SOME HELP WITH TIRES. MY 1962 ETYPE IS A LOW MILEAGE
ORIGINAL WITH 29K MILES. IT IS DRIVEN DURING NICE WEATHER AND HAS BEEN
STORED PROPERLY.
IT STILL HAS MICHELIN X'S PUT ON BY THE ORIGINAL OWNER IN 1969. NO PROBLEM WITH
CHECKING, FLAT SPOTS, AIR LOSS,ETC BUT THEY ARE 27 YEARS OLD. I FEEL LIKE THEY
SHOULD BE REPLACED FOR SAFETY. AGREE OR DISAGREE?> WHAT TYPE OF REPLACEMENT.
THE DUNLOP IS NOW AVAILABLE WITH ORIGINAL PATTERN. WOULD BE NICE BUT NOT AT THE
EXPENSE OF PERFORMANCE. THEY ARE ALSO $200 EACH WHICH WOULD BUY A PRETTY
NICE MODERN TIRE

MY XK150S IS IN THE SAME BOAT WITH UNKNOWN AGE FIRESTONES. NO PROBLEMS BUT
THEY HAVE BEEN ON SINCE I PURCHASED THE CAR IN 1982.  I CALLED BRITISH WIRE
AND THEY DO NOT HAVE ANYTHING AVAILABLE. THEY RECOMMENDED ANOTHER SUPPLIER
WHO SUGGESTED
FIRESTONES! ANY SUGGESTIONS?

JIM CANEDY(SS100,120 RACER, MK V DHC, MK VII, 150S,EX2)

------------------------------

From: Gunnar Helliesen <gunnar@bitcon.no>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 03:35:37 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: automatic vs. manual transmissions

Hi folks!

I've been lurking on this list for some time (no Jag), but as I'm 
hopefully buying an '86 XJ6 4.2 Sovereign tomorrow, I'll venture forth 
with some opinions...

Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu> wrote:

> One major reason: When you are in a four wheel drift in a turn with your
> foot deep in the throttle, having the damn thing shift can send you into the
> trees.

Good point, but you can control an automatic (to some extent) as well, 
especially if you're very familiar with the car. I know exactely when the 
tranny in my car will shift, it's become almost like an instinct. You can 
also use the stick and slap the car into a lower gear just when you need 
it, thereby eliminating the possible surprise.

>         A manual will NOT shift when you don't want it to!

Don't say that, it happened to me! The transmission was old and worn, it 
slipped out of gear and into neutral exactely at the wrong time, just 
when I was pulling out of a long curve with my foot to the floor. Almost 
blew the engine and sent me flying off the road (no trees...). Of course, 
this was a German car, a '79 Porsche 924 (piece of sh..!).

> However, there is also questionable validity to your question.  I have yet
> to see an automatic that offers more than about 70% of the performance of a
> manual, either speed or fuel economy.  I have a 5-speed in my XJ-S, and can

Speed yes, but one of my earlier cars, a '91 Volvo 740 had better fuel 
economy with the automatic than the manual box (both factory specs and my 
own experience). Might not apply in low-speed stop-and-go city traffic, 
YMMV and so on.... This is getting more and more common as automatics get 
lock-up converters and electronic controls. The automatic usually offers 
higher torque than a manual when you start from standing still (at the same 
engine RPM, due to both the converter and no loss from clutch slippage).  
Of course, the experience and skill of the driver of each type of 
transmission is a very important factor here.

Volvo put (puts?) torque converters on some heavy-duty trucks with manual 
transmissions for this very reason, these monsters also have a regular 
clutch so that you can actually fully release the clutch without moving 
and then apply power to get the thing moving. When fully loaded you would 
simply burn the clutch to cinders without moving an inch if you didn't 
have the torque converter. The converter then locks up at a relatively 
low speed to allow the truck to be driven as a normal manual shift once 
you get it moving. Note that we're talking 6x6 or even 8x8 drive 
trucks designed for off-road construction use here... I saw it (and drove 
it!) in a Volvo N12 6x6 some 10 years ago.

You can even out-accelerate a manual car with the automatic because you 
have a very short "power loss" during shifting compared to a manual, 
unless the driver of the manual car knows what he's doing. This will of 
course vary with engine torque, stall-speed, shifting-pattern of the 
automatic tranny and not to mention the driver. Most automatic 
transmissions can be "tuned", if you want responsiveness you can have it 
at the expense of smoothness. Just check out the various "performance" 
kits available for the GM TH350/400 and Ford C6 transmissions. I've 
driven a C6 that shifted like a horse-kick in my back even at moderate 
throttle.

> assure you it makes the GM400 look pretty sad indeed -- although that's no
> reflection on modern automatics, since the GM400 is a dinosaur.  But I just

True for a stock transmission in a Caddy, but you can have your TH400 any 
way you want it, even with a custom "manual" shift common in drag racing.

> got through with a two-week trip in a brand new rental car, and the A/T in
> that piece of junk sure didn't change my mind about automatics.
> 
> I think there probably are inherent problems with the fluid drive/band
> clutch/planetary gear method of power transmission.  What I'm really hoping
> will eventually happen is that somebody will couple a conventional manual
> transmission to a torque convertor, and use microprocessor-controlled servos
> to shift it.  That should bring the internal losses back down within reason.

I think this has been done for years in drag racing, I also think Saab 
has just put such a beast into production.

Whew, those were a lot of opinions for a "virgin" on this list, hope you 
forgive my long-winded rantings... ;-)

Gunnar

- --
Gunnar Helliesen   | Bergen IT Consult AS  | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway        | Jaguar owner to be...
gunnar@bitcon.no   | http://www.bitcon.no/ | Vicki who? What .sig virus?

------------------------------

From: Michael Frank <mfrank@westnet.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 22:48:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Higher Taxes, Anyone?

At 10:40 PM 4/22/96 GMT, you wrote:
>
>How about letting private companies build toll roads ?  That way the users
>pay, too, without the inherent inefficiencies of resource allocation by
>the state.
>
>Regards,
>--
>Stefan Schulz
>jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
>

Stefan:
 We've just returned from Argentina, where the government has privatized
sections of the highway. It is VERY obnoxious. Tollbooths at the strangest
locations. As you pay the toll, they hand you a stack of literature from the
company sponsoring the stretch of road. (As a frivolous touch, they also
give you a plastic bag for all the trash they hand you). And road
maintenance is pitiful for all that.

I, for one, am at a loss as to how the toll booth concept survived the gas
crisis. There is nothing I can think of that is more damaging to the
environment that a toll booth on a crowded highway. Long lines of cars
gulping gasoline to no good purpose. The tolls collected barely cover the
salaries of the collectors, with a little left over to maintain the booths. 

A few months ago, the toll booth was removed from a highway here in New
York. The producers of the movie 'Die Hard 3' wanted to blow it up as part
of the film. The state would not allow them to do it, due to insurance
concerns (HA!). Instead, construction crews took the better part of two
months to bulldoze the offensive structure. I would have paid the insurance
bill for the right to push the plunger!

Mike Frank
1969 2+2 Etype

------------------------------

From: Michael Frank <mfrank@westnet.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 23:03:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Rust Removal

At 03:59 PM 4/23/96 -0700, you wrote:
>
>See- I told you that would start a fire.  And so to make up for
>it, here's a topic that has nothing to do with old cars, or pollution,
>or taxes, or road construction...
>
>What is the best product people have found for removing light 
>surface rust from chrome surfaces.  I seem to remember a neighbor of
>mine removing rust from a chrome bicycle rim with a Jasco
>product- the results were pretty amazing?  Some sort of acid
>based concrete cleaner me thinks.
>
>

Ryan:
 For this type of application, I use a product called Zud. You can find it
in supermarkets and hardware stores with the kitchen cleansers, in a yellow
and green can. It is meant for removing rust stains from porcelain sinks.
The primary ingredient is oxalic acid. This is active enough to remove light
rust, but 'slow' enough not to do collateral damage.

I would apply it with some water and very fine steel wool, since the object
is to obtain a shiny surface. As long as the steel wool is fine enough, you
should do minimal damage to any remaining chrome.

Concrete cleaners are based on muriatic acid (actually hydrochloric acid).
This is very nasty stuff, difficult to handle and control. Muriatic will
surely strip off every last bit of chrome. Start with the mild chemicals
before you try anything this radical. 

Mike Frank
1969 2+2 Etype 

------------------------------

From: Robert Hyndman <bhyndman@niia.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 22:06:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Jag Restorations:hardware

At 08:30 AM 4/23/96 EDT, you wrote:
>Hi all...
>
>A quick question for you...
>
>As I go through the process of bringing my MK II up to driver status, I find
>that a great deal of time is spent on the road going after nuts, bolts and
other
>misc. hardware.
>
>I've seen those ads in JC WHitney and Harbor Freight for "The 1001 Nuts and
Bolt
>Assortment" for only USD 9.95 but we all know that these fasteners are pretty
>low grade.  I'm wondering if you know of anyone makes/markets a similar set of
>common use fasteners but of a higher grade, at least five or better? Or am I
>destined to make daily trips to my local NAPA store for fasteners as I need
>them?
>
>Thanks and Best regards,
>Jim Beckmeyer    Union CIty, MI USA
>e-mail: 73131.3076@compuserve.com
>90 Jaguar XJ-40-Sovereign
>60 Jaguar MK II
>
>
>
>
>Jim,
  I don't know if you have them in Michigan but here in Indiana we have TSC,
and Farm & Fleet stores which sell a variety of grade 8 nuts and bolts.
These are sold by the pound not the piece and I have found them to be very
high quality, you can mix and match any sizes, and at about $3.00 per pound
they are very economical.
Bob Hyndman

------------------------------

From: Michael Frank <mfrank@westnet.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 23:08:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Rust Removal

At 03:59 PM 4/23/96 -0700, you wrote:
>

>What is the best product people have found for removing light 
>surface rust from chrome surfaces.  I seem to remember a neighbor of
>mine removing rust from a chrome bicycle rim with a Jasco
>product- the results were pretty amazing?  Some sort of acid
>based concrete cleaner me thinks.
>
>

Ryan:
 For this type of application, I use a product called Zud. You can find it
in supermarkets and hardware stores with the kitchen cleansers, in a yellow
and green can. It is meant for removing rust stains from porcelain sinks.
The primary ingredient is oxalic acid. This is active enough to remove light
rust, but 'slow' enough not to do collateral damage.

I would apply it with some water and very fine steel wool, since the object
is to obtain a shiny surface. As long as the steel wool is fine enough, you
should do minimal damage to any remaining chrome.

Concrete cleaners are based on muriatic acid (actually hydrochloric acid).
This is very nasty stuff, difficult to handle and control. Muriatic will
surely strip off every last bit of chrome. Start with the mild chemicals
before you try anything this radical. 

Mike Frank
1969 2+2 Etype 

------------------------------

From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 96 20:12:33 PDT
Subject: Re: First Jag Purchase

>My neighbor is looking at a Jag for the first time.  I explained to her 
>that owning a Jag - any Jag - carries with it a 'responsibility' to 
>maintain it.  Responsibility translates into maintain it or be sorry.

I agree with you; however, I don't think we need to scare her off
too much. I have exactly the same car, same year, and it's been quite 
easy to live with.

>She's looking at a 1991 XJ6 VDP with 37K miles on it.  It's at the 
>Jaguar dealership for $17K.  Assuming it's had immaculate maintenance 

By the way, that's a very good price, assuming that the condition is
commeserate with the low mileage. Does it carry the Jag special edition
warranty? (somehow I doubt it, though she can perhaps ask for a warranty
during the negotiations). In my opinion, you cannot drive a better car
for that price. The VDP is especially nice, due to the wonderful interior.
- -- 
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Roger Peng                                     (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Michael Frank <mfrank@westnet.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 23:17:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Rust Removal

At 03:59 PM 4/23/96 -0700, you wrote:
>

>What is the best product people have found for removing light 
>surface rust from chrome surfaces.  I seem to remember a neighbor of
>mine removing rust from a chrome bicycle rim with a Jasco
>product- the results were pretty amazing?  Some sort of acid
>based concrete cleaner me thinks.
>
>

Ryan:
 For this type of application, I use a product called Zud. You can find it
in supermarkets and hardware stores with the kitchen cleansers, in a yellow
and green can. It is meant for removing rust stains from porcelain sinks.
The primary ingredient is oxalic acid. This is active enough to remove light
rust, but 'slow' enough not to do collateral damage.

I would apply it with some water and very fine steel wool, since the object
is to obtain a shiny surface. As long as the steel wool is fine enough, you
should do minimal damage to any remaining chrome.

Concrete cleaners are based on muriatic acid (actually hydrochloric acid).
This is very nasty stuff, difficult to handle and control. Muriatic will
surely strip off every last bit of chrome. Start with the mild chemicals
before you try anything this radical. 

Mike Frank
1969 2+2 Etype 

------------------------------

From: DHarr13177@aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 00:20:43 -0400
Subject: Re: TIRES FOR XK150 AND E TYPE

try Avons for the E type

British Wire Wheel is a good supplier

I like the appearance and performance of mine

Doug

------------------------------

From: arnie@qnet.com (Ted Arnold)
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 21:51:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: XK8 = Mustang

I have it on good authority, the mechanic who cares for my 3 Jags,  that the
new XK8 is really a Ford Mustang with some different cosmetics. I have an
appointment to see him tomorrow evening and he says he'll bring over the
paperwork he has that explains it.  To start with it has the Mustang V8
engine, etc, etc.  I'll keep you all informed as I find out more.  I hope
I'm wrong.

------------------------------

From: Hunt Dabney <hdabney@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 23:55:49 -0700
Subject: Re: power steering

Tom-
Some time ago I started down this path on the list for the trany in my '85
SIII XJ-6. Since that time, I've had every possible permutation of an answer
come my way, from, among other places, several major oil companies.
As I understand it, Type-G is an obsolete designator for Dexron. It's so
obsolete that nobody remembers what it was. So, the progression from Dexron
- -> II -> III is *supposed* to be corect, but I've seen Dexron-III bottles
that say "not equivalent to..." folowed by the specific type number
mentioned in the manual. 
Some guys on the list swear by Type F, some by Dexron-II/III. The overall
consensus was that consistancy and a clean system probably matter more. The
guys from Havoline told me Dexron-III. 
I hope you have better luck with a solid answer than I did. I've decided to
rinse mine out with Dex.-III and run that.
Good luck!
Hunt

At 10:56 AM 4/22/96 -0400, Tom Walker wrote:
>Ok folks, this might be a silly question but.....
>
>Owners manual for my 82 XJS HE says to use Type "G" tranny fluid for the
>power steering.  A quick look at the local auto parts store, and no Type "G"
>to be found.
>
>Soooo, is it OK to use the newer type rated fluids??? and what about mixing
>types of fluid with the fluid that hasn't spewed forth from the power
>steering system.
>
>Appreciate your thoughts
>Tom Walker
>Tjwal@concentric.net
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: Hunt Dabney <hdabney@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 23:55:38 -0700
Subject: Re: O2-sensor and sunroof 

Are-

I would install the O2 sensor into the exhaust stream, as you have
described. Otherwise, the ECU will not be able to maintain the correct
mixture, whcih couldn't be good for the engine, never mind fuel consumption!

Do you have a manual (a factory one)? The sun-roof may just need its switch
cleaned. A dirty/worn switch can limit the available torque from the motor.
Cleaning and (lightly) greasing the tracks and/or mechanism may also be
needed. The manual should help with how to go about this. The car should
have a little crank, which may be plugged onto the back of the roof-motor,
to allow you to open it by hand. If you can do this without forcing it, then
the switch is probably the problem. To get to the motor, you remove the
panel from the inside of the boot (trunk) behund the rear seat.

Good luck!
Hunt

At 04:56 PM 4/15/96 +0200, Are Lorentsen wrote:
>Hi!
>No answer to the mail I posted it last week on this subject, so I try  
>again in case it didn't reach out (or maibe my inglish wass two bad).
>
>here goes
>1:
>My 82 XJ6 is an US-model, and was originally fitted with a  
>catalyst-system. When taken to Norway in -89, the catalyst was removed,  
>and the exhaust-system was replaced with an european one (state  
>regulations in Norway does not require catalyst on cars produced before  
>1989). When I bought this car last year I found to my surprise that the  
>O2-sensor was still there, WELDED ON THE SURFACE OF THE MANIFOLD, thus  
>measuring in fresh air.
>
>I is still in that position, and I wonder what to do about it. Should I  
>put it back in again? If so, I will have to drill a hole and weld a nut  
>on to get it back in.
>
>The engine seems to perform very well, but fuel consumption is a bit  
>high. Since the O2-sensor now measures outside air, will it lead to  
>higher consumption because the ECU is giving more fuel to burn all that  
>oxygen? Does it make sense? 
>
>2:
>The sunroof opens up only 10 cm, and then it stops. It doesn't move  
>slower and finally stops, it just stops. Sometimes it won't close again  
>like if a fuse is blown, but if I wait a while and try again it will  
>close.
>
>Any input will be appreciated.
>
>Regards
>Are Lorentsen
>Narvik, Norway
>E-mail: are@vinn.no
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: Hunt Dabney <hdabney@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 23:55:53 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ6 ECU bad--I think (fwd)

Bill-

This may sound kinda stupid: I had a similiar behavior last week, just
before (1 day) I needed to drive myself to the airport to leave on business.
I did a *very* quick inspection of the obvious, then decided it couldn't
hurt to replace plugs/rotor/cap/wires, which I had a spare new set of. Wires
measured good with an ohmmeter, but had visible punch-through from
insulation breakdown. These were Bosch wires and less than 2 years old.
Rotor had visible tracking, too. The car now runs very smoothly, has good
power, gets about 2 more mpg and even idles pretty smoothly. I wish I did
this 6 months ago when I bought the parts!

Alternatively, I had my fuel pressure regulator fail about a year ago. Went
**very** rich, cat convertor was glowing red before it fused and died. Very
unpleasant to repair (read expensive). Horrible smoky exhaust, not
consistant at all.

Hunt

At 12:55 PM 4/22/96 -0500, William F Trimble wrote:
>
>
>Dear Jag-Lovers:
>	I've been struggling with bad running problems with my 85 XJ6 for 
>the last six weeks or so.  The car runs rich, fouling the plugs 
>within a couple of miles.  Cold idles is all right, then sometimes it 
>drops quickly off cold idle and runs badly.  Through various diagnostic 
>procedures, we eliminated the ignition side.  The coil is OK, the amplifier
is OK, and 
>the pickup module is OK.  Oil filler cap was tight, too.
>	So, over to the fuel side.  The air flow meter was next to new, but we 
>changed it out for the old one I had.  That made no difference.  We 
>thought we might have had a fuel flow problem, so we disconnected the 
>return lines.  The car ran fine for a while, then began to run rich 
>again.  The airflow meter is next to brand new, but we swapped if for 
>the old one I have.  No change. Then we thought it might be a carbon 
>cannister blockage.  Bypassed that, checked the valves, and  the car ran 
>again--for a couple of days, then started to run rich again.   Replaced 
>the carbon cannister and the fuel return valves.  No change.  Car ran 
>badly.  Swapped the O2 sensor.  The one that was in it was about a year 
>old, but we changed it just to see what happened.  Nothing changed.  
>Pulled the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator.  That made no 
>difference, other than inhibiting acceleration.  Fuel pump seemed noisy, 
>so replaced it, too.  That made no difference, either.
>	We were pretty sure that we had done everything else we could do, 
>so we decided to look at the ECU.  We disconnected it, crimped and 
>cleaned female connectors, cleaned male connectors, tapped the ECU and put 
>it back in.  Car ran fine for two days, then back to rich running and 
>plug fouling.  Barely got the car out of the driveway.  Repeated the 
>above--removed ECU, tapped on it, and put it back in.  Car ran fine.  In 
>fact it ran all day Saturday and all day Sunday, and got me to work 
>today.  It does, however, have a hot start problem that it did not have 
>before.  It will crank forever on the first try, then fire almost 
>immediately on the second.
>	OK.  We (Rick the mechanic, Larry Lee, me, and my dog) give up.  
>Anybody have any ideas?  Has anybody had intermittent ECU failures?  Is 
>there something wrong with the connector to the ECU?  How can you know if 
>there's a problem with the connector?  
>	I did change the thermostat before all this developed.  This 
>involved taking off the coolant rail, and moving some of the injection 
>harness out of the way.  In the process of hooking things back up, I did 
>not connect a ground, and the car would not start.  After connecting the 
>ground, the car ran fine for at least a couple of weeks.  Could cranking 
>the car with that ground disconnected cause problems with the ECU?
>	Any advice, help, experience would be greatly appreciated.
>	
>Bill Trimble
>Auburn, Alabama
>
>
>

------------------------------

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #58
*******************************

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jag-lovers-digest         Wednesday, 24 April 1996      Volume 02 : Number 059

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Iain McShane <shadie@hkabc.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 17:13:04 +0800
Subject: XJ40 Cutting-out

I have a strange problem with my 1986 (new shape) XJ 40 (3.6l)
When driving the car there is no problem, but when the temp reaches 90 the engine tries 
to die.
If I play with the throttle the engine will pick-up(only when the temp drops).
The fuel pressure is good.
The coolant temp sensor has been replaced.
One other thing, when the car tries to cut out the fuel pump sounds as if it is 
labouring.
Any ideas, Im lost
Iain Mcshane, Hong Kong

------------------------------

From: "Alastar W. Lauener" <bu08@central.napier.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 10:20:42 +0100
Subject: 3.8S Automatics

Concerning the debate over the autoboxes fitted to S-Type, 
there was a variation for the later ones.
The earlier were known as the DG, (I think 250) and simply had the
PNDLR option, the later which was known here as the BW35 had the 
P N D1 D2 L R  option.  These were for the very late cars.

  ************************************************************************
 * Alastair Lauener                       Work  Phone +44 131 455 2458    *
 * Chief Technician                             Fax   +44 131 455 2267    *
 * Department of Building & Surveying      Home Phone +44 1577 864242     *
 * Napier University, Edinburgh EH10 5DT   a.lauener@central.napier.ac.uk *
 * 1964 3.4 S-Type  story at http://www.sn.no/home/nick/alas.html         *
  ************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: Graham Watson <grahamw@microsoft.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 03:24:46 -0700
Subject: RE: Placement of Aftermarket 1984 xj6 hood ornament

Correct placement is *In the bin* ....... sorry, but I think they look
wrong (and in many countrys are illegal). Took me an age to get the
respray right on my XJ40 after removing the "ornament" the PO had put on
mine....

I think that any additions such as this are bound to reduce your cars
resale value, perhaps almost a s much as fluffy dice on the mirror !

>-----Original Message-----
>From:	Chris Howard 	[SMTP:christopher@netmanage.com]
>Sent:	Tuesday, April 23, 1996 3:48 PM
>To:	jag-lovers@sn.no
>Subject:	Placement of Aftermarket 1984 xj6 hood ornament
>
>
>
>Thanks to the excellent resources here I finally called Welsh Jaguar
>and ordered a new antenna for Tiffany (1984 xj6 vp) and also had them
>throw in a hood ornament, question is what is the most standard
>placement of the ornament ? i guess the best measurement would be from
>the top of the grill
>chrome to the ornament, gime me some ideas .... thanks ahead of time.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>    
>
>------------------------------------------------
>Christopher Howard
>E-mail: christopher@netmanage.com
>4/23/96                              2:48:26 PM
>
>Chameleon - The Best Windows TCP/IP applications
>Chameleon - The Best MacOS TCP/IP applications
>WebSurfer - The Best Web Browser
>ECCO      - The Best Workgroup productivity tool
>Swift     - The Best Terminal Emulation Suite
>NewtWatch - The Best Desktop Management 
>----------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Martin Robert Fooks, WWIS" <mfooks@postiss.netherlands.attgis.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 96 14:17:00 PDT
Subject: XK8 = Mustang.....= Daimler V8

I have proof that the new XK8 is in-fact the old Daimler V8 in disguise!

1.  4 wheels touching the ground (1 at each corner, exactly as in the   
Daimler).
2.  Spare wheel in the trunk (again, this is no accidental coincidence!).
3.  Glass Windscreen and side screens.
4.  Wood very much in evidence in the interior.
5.  Leather seats.
6.  V8 Powerplant... obvious Daimler V8 with modifications (note : both   
have 8 pistons!, explain THAT away Jaguar!!!)
7.  Number plates from the Daimler fit the XK8 and vice-versa.
8.  The same dealer that can service your Daimler can also service your   
XK8.

I'm going to save myself a lot of money and buy a Daimler V8, then do the   
few body modifications needed to make it look like the XK8.
 --------------------------------------------------------------------------  
 -----------
Martin R. Fooks (Martin.Fooks@Netherlands.NCR.COM)
    (Martin_Fooks@MSN.COM)
Web Pages :http://www.cris.com/~Mrfooks/
Tel : +31 20 651 2698/ +31 20 41 91 731
 --------------------------------------------------------------------------  
 -----------
Network Consultant, all round good-guy & part-time Demi-God.

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 08:40:31 -0400
Subject: Re: Cruise Control  [XJ series]

>The cruise control bellows on my '84 XJ6 had begun to dry out and lose 
>the vacuum seal at the ends due to intense heat on that side of the 
>engine. 
>
>  Somebody 
>somewhere said this was a GM part......  Kirby, was that you?

I've heard that, but I have been unable to confirm it.  I've also heard it
was an American Motors part, but haven't been able to confirm that either.

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 08:40:32 -0400
Subject: Re: zero-emissions

>How about combining nuclear fusion (NOT fission) with peltier elements
>or Stirling motors ?  The only emission would be waste heat, that's clean
>according to your definition.

Somebody would object to the heat emissions.  If you don't believe me, you
need to look at the requirements for electric power plants.  At the one I
worked at in Sanford, Florida, the plant (like most plants) was built along
a river in order to provide cooling.  Tree-huggers objected to reinjecting
river water back into the river a few degrees warmer than the surrounding
water.  The result: the plant had to buy land and create an artificial lake,
four square miles in size, to provide cooling capacity.  While some might
raise questions as to which tact adversely affects the environment the most,
this practice -- or the use of cooling towers, which release the heat and a
lot of water into the atmosphere -- is still the policy with construction of
new power plants today.

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 08:40:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Brakes and MOT tests

>>It would make more sense to test the driving skills of the
>>drivers.                                           Jim
>
>I think that Jim may really be onto something here.  I bet if we tested
>driver skills instead of the mechanical conditions of their vehicles we could
>also alleviate road congestion in our major cities.

And we would create a market for mass transit, making commuter systems
profitable enterprises, and reducing the need for everyone to be driving
their own cars.

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 08:40:37 -0400
Subject: Revised Crash Test, Emissions Testing

>I'm not optimistic 
>about the utility of such a test.  I suppose that we would probably 
>get better brakes (great for us) since the builders would then only 
>have to deal with a lower speed impact.  However, I wouldn't be at all 
>surprised to see cars designed to only survive the resulting lower 
>speed impact.

In the short term, I would expect this to be the result.  However, such a
result would also permit the Feds to increase the stringency of the test to
reflect the improved braking performance of the average car.  Once all the
carmakers have improved their brakes, then the braking distance can be
shortened to once again cause the average car to hit at 30 mph.  In fact,
this revision could be made automatic: the average braking performance of
one year's models could be used to establish the braking distance of the
succeeding year's crash tests.

At the present, the Feds have little potential of encouraging cars to get
any better.  A few years back, they considered raising the crash test to 35
mph.  However, for reasons already discussed, this would have limited
benefits and great costs.  So now they are talking about side impact testing.

> Especially since most 
>accident don't involve 90 degree impacts on solid, flat surfaces.

True enough, but most accidents DO involve 90 degree -- or nearly 90 degree
- -- impacts on SOMETHING.  The solid, flat surfaces merely standardize the
tests; the results are still valid for most real-world accidents.

>  And 
>all too often, the real world opportunity to apply the brakes 
>sufficiently in advance of impact is taken away by some incredible 
>idiot who does the completely unexpected.

I could not argue with any reasonable proposal to rid the highways of
idiots.  IMHO, such a program is long overdue.

> Here in 
>the Commonwealth of Virginia... The emissions inspection 
>does not apply to vehicles more than 20 years old.

Please, someone explain to me the logic in this.  Is pollution by
20-year-old cars somehow less harmful than pollution from newer cars?  Does
somebody think that if a car passed the tests for 20 years, it will no
longer pollute for the rest of its existence?

This REALLY strikes me as dumb.  The 20-year-old cars are PRECISELY the ones
that require emissions testing the most!  It seems to me that this exemption
is encouraging people to keep driving their old buckets whenever possible.

>  Some states have no 
>inspections at all.

That's the case here in Florida -- although, interestingly enough,
Hillsborough County (Tampa) apparently has instigated an emissions testing
program.  More power to them; the pollution in big cities is much worse than
it is here in the countryside of N Florida, and I'd just as soon they
applied such measures only where needed rather than statewide or nationwide.

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 08:40:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Higher Taxes, Anyone?

>How about letting private companies build toll roads ?  That way the users
>pay, too, without the inherent inefficiencies of resource allocation by
>the state.

The only problem is that we'd average about 2 mph trying to get anywhere.
Can you imagine how many tolls you'd have to stop and pay on your way to
work each morning?

Of course, technology may come through.  Once a system is established for
automatically charging tolls as you drive by at 60 mph, maybe this solution
will work.

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: GNKP18A@prodigy.com ( JOHN T HORNER)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 09:00:43 EDT
Subject: Re: ZERO JAG CONTENT-Pollution & user taxes

- -- [ From: John Horner * EMC.Ver #2.10P ] --

> >Go find a nice unbiased text covering elementary economics.  

For starters, there is no such animal as an unbiased text on economics.

The only sillier thing would be to believe that the Federal Reserve and
other central banks are "Non-Political".

------------------------------

From: GNKP18A@prodigy.com ( JOHN T HORNER)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 09:00:49 EDT
Subject: Re: Clunkers, zero-emissions

- -- [ From: John Horner * EMC.Ver #2.10P ] --

> From: Kirby Palm               \ Internet:    (palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu)
> Obviously, it's gonna depend on your definition of "zero emissions". 
Many
> tree-huggers define it as a vehicle with no tailpipe or vent
whatsoever.
> 
<snip>

What the "tree huggers" seem to miss is the obvious fact that the lack
of a tailpipe doesn't mean there isn't a pollution belching coal fired
power plant behind that handy-dandy pollution-free 220V electical
socket.   The naivete of some people is beyond belief.

The whole zero emissions thing seems misguided.  What should be
measured is the effective emissions.

FWIW.

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 09:15:37 -0400
Subject: Re: automatic vs. manual transmissions

>Good point, but you can control an automatic (to some extent) as well, 
>especially if you're very familiar with the car. I know exactely when the 
>tranny in my car will shift, it's become almost like an instinct.

True, but what good does it do you?  If you're trying to corner hard, it is
little comfort to know that the tranny is about to send you into the guard
rail.  If you change throttle, alter steering, whatever, you're as likely to
aggravate the traction situation as the tranny.

> You can 
>also use the stick and slap the car into a lower gear just when you need 
>it, thereby eliminating the possible surprise.

Unfortunately, not true.  The GM 400, with 2nd gear selected, shifts by
itself and even more suddenly than it does in D whenever you're at elevated RPM.

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 09:15:39 -0400
Subject: Re: XK8 = Mustang

>I have it on good authority, the mechanic who cares for my 3 Jags,  that the
>new XK8 is really a Ford Mustang with some different cosmetics. I have an
>appointment to see him tomorrow evening and he says he'll bring over the
>paperwork he has that explains it.  To start with it has the Mustang V8
>engine, etc, etc.  I'll keep you all informed as I find out more.  I hope
>I'm wrong.

Gee, why do I get the impression that your mechanic is making unwarranted
assumptions?  It is already an established fact that the V8 in the XK8 bears
no relation whatsoever to the "modular" V8 in the Mustang, is a different
displacement, was designed in England rather than the US, and is being
manufactured in England as well.

If you wanna talk badge engineering, perhaps a comparison between the XK8
and the Aston Martin is in order.

My impressions of the Ford Modular V8 engine is favorable, by the way.  I do
wonder why the modular wasn't used in the XK8; it almost seems a waste to
have developed a new motor for this limited application, and it makes it
much harder to get parts and knowledgeable repair work.

In a related vein, I asked a guy in a junkyard "How's Business?" and he
responded "Terrible!".  He then went on to explain how modern trends in
autos have destroyed the junk business.  A couple decades back, nearly all
the cars on the road shared a few basic engines and drivetrains; even a
small junkyard could supply most of the parts needed for most cars.  But
nowadays, each and every car seems to come with a unique engine, and even
the large junkyards are usually having to tell customers they don't have the
part needed.

I feel it is essential to discontinue obsolete engine designs (you all know
my feelings on the Chevy lump) and develop updated designs on a regular
basis.  But that doesn't call for hundreds of different engines.  I really
liked Chrysler's attitude of the Ioccoca era, when they used the same basic
four-banger for damn near every vehicle in the line.  It was a decent motor
- -- not the greatest -- and was very easy to get parts for, and even to
replace entirely.  Chrysler, of course, would have benefitted from having a
similar workhorse engine in a larger size.  If I were in charge of a car
company, I would try to have three or four good engines and use them in the
whole product line.  And periodically, I would replace each one with a newer
version.

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: HDR64@aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 09:22:28 -0400
Subject: Re: XJ-S Heater

Actually, as far as I know the Delanair heater unit is made/ supplied by
Delanair of England. I know the heater valves are made in the United States
by another company. Many aftermarket companies have attempted to obtain parts
directly from Delanair but they cannot sell directly because of contractual
obligations to Jaguar.

Regards,
Hal Rogers

P.S. I know this for sure, I tried....and other buyers that I know tried too!

------------------------------

From: chatmans@ext.missouri.edu
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 96 08:34:18 cdt
Subject: XJ6 Series III Radio Questions

     Hi.

     I'm new to the list, and happy to find you. About 1 month ago I bought 
     the XJ6 Series III that I've wanted since the early 80s. It's an 83 
     with 74K miles and is in reasonably good shape. If it's as solid as it 
     seems I plan to paint it this summer (Claret Red Metallic 
     disappearing). I'm especially glad to find your list as I am 120 miles 
     from the nearest exclusive Jag mechanics (Moore Jaguar in St. Louis, 
     MO). I hope to usually do my own work but turned to them last week to 
     fix a stub axle leak after I got concerned about being able to 
     properly torque the assembly. Anyway, the fix required two trips and a 
     car rental so I look forward to learning from this group.

     Anyway, I have a pressing question. Over the past 2-3 weeks the 
     radio/cassette display would occasionally fully light-up reading 1888 
     (some number of 8s) and would cease to work. At first, I could turn it 
     off and on and it would function properly. (Memory settings would be 
     lost.) Then, I could turn it off and on several times and it would 
     work. Now, it's gone. Before I tear into it, I wonder if I might as 
     well have a replacement handy or does it sound like a simple problem 
     -- maybe a bad ground connection -- or a cheap fix by a repair shop? 
     If I probably do need a replacement, what fits well? Are used Jag 
     radios a good idea or are they prone to trouble. To be honest, I kind 
     of hate to loose the Jaguar label. Didn't bother me when I replaced 
     the Honda's radio. 

     Thanks, Steve Chatman
     chatmans@ext.missouri.edu

------------------------------

From: "Himes,John W." <jwh@dw.att.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 96 07:58:00 PDT
Subject: XK8 Engine

A question to TezFair (Terry)
Someone posted that they are hearing that the XK8 is getting the Ford 
Mustang engine, a friend told me last night he heard that Jaguar is using 
the Ford Taurus SHO engine.  I thing I saw something earlier in one of the 
postings, but do not remember if this is a ford engine or a new Jaguar 
engine.

Can you please shed some light on the subject and enlighten those of us in 
the dark?

John Himes
88 XJ-S 93K miles :-)
72 Mustang 114K ? could be 214K or 314K ? miles

------------------------------

From: Stefan Schulz <jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 1996 22:40:29 GMT
Subject: Re: Higher Taxes, Anyone?

No offence, Steven, but I can tell you are not from the USA.

<How about letting private companies build toll roads ?  That way the users
<pay, too, without the inherent inefficiencies of resource allocation by
<the state.

  In some areas we have private ownership of utilities. For example, a private
company owns a local water company. The people who must use that water company
are paying about three times what I pay, in the same county.
  LLoyd

------------------------------

From: JAShevelew@aol.com
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 17:38:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Brakes and MOT tests

 Jonathon suggests;

<I think that Jim may really be onto something here.  I bet if we tested
<driver skills instead of the mechanical conditions of their vehicles we could
<also alleviate road congestion in our major cities.

  Well, I know it would in my state. Trouble is, the bad drivers would drive
anyway, license or not. Car insurance is already required, but something like
40% don't have any. (About 50+% in my County, we have a lot of farm workers.)
   LLoyd

------------------------------

From: LLoyd <3030P%NAVPGS.BITNET@cmsa.berkeley.edu>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 96 08:01:04 PDT
Subject: Re: Rust Removal

Ryan,
  I've had good luck with an automotive wheel spray cleaner and fine steel
wool.
       LLoyd

------------------------------

From: Are Lorentsen <are@vinn.no>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 96 17:08:00 PDT
Subject: Re: Higher Taxes, Anyone?

Kirby wrote:
>Of course, technology may come through.  Once a system is established for
>automatically charging tolls as you drive by at 60 mph, maybe this solution
>will work.

A system like this has been working very good for about 7 years in Oslo. A 
printed circuit board with a built in code (similar to the bar code on 
groceries)  in a small plastic house is placed inside your windshield. 
Signals from a transmitter placed 5 meters above the road is reflected from 
this piece, and if the code is not recognized by the computer your car is 
photographed. The system have been tested up to 140 km/h (90 mph).

You pay for 1 year in advance so this is only for people who live or work in 
the area. Others pay manually.

The system was established to finance new roads in the area, but I believe 
they will keep it forever for enviromental reasons.

Are Lorentsen
Narvik, Norway
82 XJ6
E-mail: are@vinn.no

------------------------------

From: James Bannister <loner@peterboro.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 11:16:29 -0400
Subject: Dumb And Not So Dumb Questions

Hi!

Just hopin' you kind souls can help me figure out a few things, such as:

1) When I reply to question and/or comment posted on jag-lovers do I =
send my e-mail to <jag-lovers@sn.no> or do I e-mail to the individual =
who posted the question and/or comment; or do I e-mail to the individual =
and "carbon copy" to the jag-lovers, or vice versa; or does it matter?

2) Pardon my ignorance, but what does "IMHO" mean? I've been wrackin' my =
brain on this one for a week!

3) Where can I read previous postings on jag-lovers, that is, before I =
subscribed?

4) Exactly what is jag-lovers, I mean, is it a user group or use net or =
what?

I promise I won't ask anymore dumb questions. Thanks a lot.

Tommy
loner@peterboro.net

------------------------------

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #59
*******************************

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Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 21:19:31 +0200
Message-Id: <199604241919.VAA17197@ekeberg.sn.no>
From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject:   jag-lovers-digest V2 #60
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jag-lovers-digest         Wednesday, 24 April 1996      Volume 02 : Number 060

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: James Bannister <loner@peterboro.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 11:16:59 -0400
Subject: RE: The XJ6 Book

Hi James:

Pardon my ignorance, but what is this "XJ6 Book" you refer to? And "20 Digests - Volume #1 1-20"?

I think I might be missin' out on some good stuff here.

Thanks.

Tommy.
loner@peterboro.net

"I think, therefore I am."

------------------------------

From: James Bannister <loner@peterboro.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 11:16:52 -0400
Subject: RE: Just Some Ramblin'

Hi Lloyd:

Sorry for the delayed response. I'm still overwhelmed by my new Windows =
95 and Internet experiences.

Thanks for the welcome. Much appreciated.

And your suggestion has prompted me to contact a certain Jag man who =
might be able to take me on as a sort of "freelance helper". Cool, eh?

Later.

Tommy.
loner@peterboro.net

------------------------------

From: James Bannister <loner@peterboro.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 11:16:43 -0400
Subject: RE: Just Some Ramblin'

Hi Stephen Wood:

Sorry for the delayed response. I'm still overwhelmed by my new Windows =
95 and Internet experiences.

As for my wife, she says real men don't need hobbies and real men have =
real man-type jobs, like construction. Seriously! You can see the =
futility I'm up against. Then again, I ain't no prize either. Maybe =
she'll come to when I finally get the cats back on the road. She's never =
been in one, except last October when she reluctantly sat in the =
driver's seat of my XJ6 and pumped the brake pedal while I bled the =
brakes.

As far as the parts catalogue, I've seen the parts guys at my Jag dealer =
refer to such a reference, and something similar (or maybe the same) at =
some Jag wrecker's warehouse. Maybe I'll post a request for some more =
opinions on the best reference in this area.

Later.

Tommy
loner@peterboro.net=20

------------------------------

From: Michael Frank <mfrank@westnet.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Apr 1996 22:48:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Higher Taxes, Anyone?

Mike observes;

<                                   The tolls collected barely cover the
<salaries of the collectors, with a little left over to maintain the booths.

  I lived in Sicily a few years ago and ther is one toll road running along
the east end of the island from north to south. It is a private road, and
as it passes through each mafia members turf, he collects a portion of the
fees. The road is in good shape, but the fee is very high, something like
ten cents (US) per mile. That is quite steep for the Sciilian economy.

  LLoyd -  you use-a my road, you pay-a me cash  -

------------------------------

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 11:29:56 -0400
Subject: More Auto vs Manual with no Jag content

Two points regarding auto versus manual:

1.      It's very difficult to compare performance and mileage in a given model 
car.  In my quest for a 5-speed small sedan I discovered that the manual 
versions were typically equipped with a different rear axle ratio.  A little 
math showed overall ratios varied as well, often by a wide margin.

        I wouldn't want a manual in my 6000+ lb Suburban with a 7000+ lb loaded 
horse trailer behind it.  The clutch sure wouldn't last long.  I guess I would 
be just as happy with an auto in an XJ-6/XJ-12 Sedan where "Grace, Space and 
Pace" would be the goal.  But my E-Type?  No way an auto goes in an E-Type.  I 
love my XJ-S, but the one thing that dampens my enjoyment of it is the damned 
auto.  Oh how I long for a 5-speed.  If the XK-8 is supposed to be the long 
awaited successor to the E, then it sure needs a 5-speed for me to love it.  
Maybe the fact that I don't have to endure bumper-to-bumper traffic makes a 
manual more desirable.

        One thing I haven't seen brought up in the debate so far is reliability.
Autos simply are much more complicated and less reliable than manuals.  My 
wife's Honda has gone 330,000 miles with it's 5-speed.  So far we've replaced 
the clutch once.  Had the transmission drained and the oil refilled when the 
clutch was done.  How many automatics can get to 100K without significant 
maintenance.  I see a lot of discussion on this list about auto problems, don't 
seem to recall much if any about manuals.

2.      The ultimate drag racing transmissions are pneumatically shifted 
planetary gears with multi-disc clutches.  The clutch is never used after 
launch.  Just push a button to shift to the next gear.  Actually, I guess that 
is the penultimate transmission.  The real ultimate is a top fuel car with a 
slider clutch and "growers".  The clutch allows the engine to stay at its peak 
while slipping enough to avoid lighting the tires.  The grower slicks 
effectively change the overall gear ratio by increasing in diameter as speed 
increases.  Sort of a CVT. 

MikeC 

- ------------------------- Reply Message -----------------------------------

True for a stock transmission in a Caddy, but you can have your TH400 any 
way you want it, even with a custom "manual" shift common in drag racing.

> got through with a two-week trip in a brand new rental car, and the A/T in
> that piece of junk sure didn't change my mind about automatics.
> 
> I think there probably are inherent problems with the fluid drive/band
> clutch/planetary gear method of power transmission.  What I'm really hoping
> will eventually happen is that somebody will couple a conventional manual
> transmission to a torque convertor, and use microprocessor-controlled servos
> to shift it.  That should bring the internal losses back down within reason.

I think this has been done for years in drag racing, I also think Saab 
has just put such a beast into production.

Whew, those were a lot of opinions for a "virgin" on this list, hope you 
forgive my long-winded rantings... ;-)

Gunnar

------------------------------

From: Larry Lee <leelarr@mail.auburn.edu>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 11:15:50 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Cruise Control

On Tue, 23 Apr 1996, Kirby Palm wrote:
> This has been a standing question in my XJ-S help booklet.  In it, I point
> out that it wouldn't be difficult to fit a generic aftermarket cruise
> control unit, but it would probably look like hell; I don't see how you
> could use the original switches, and would have to mount the tacky
> aftermarket control inside somewhere.

It doesn't have to look like hell at all.  My Series II XJ4.2 didn't have 
cruise control when I got it.  I don't think it was even available on 
Series II XJs.   I installed an aftermarket (Dana) cruise control, but I 
put in a turn signal stalk and shift quadrant (with the cruise switch) 
from a Series III.  You have to look at the cruise control wiring 
diagram and connect the Jag switches correctly, but it's no big deal.  

Inside, it's all Jag and looks just fine, thank you.

Larry Lee

------------------------------

From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 18:12:09 +0000
Subject: Re: Dumb And Not So Dumb Questions

[ James Bannister <loner@peterboro.net> ]
| 
| 1) When I reply to question and/or comment posted on jag-lovers do I
| send my e-mail to <jag-lovers@sn.no> or do I e-mail to the individual
| who posted the question and/or comment; or do I e-mail to the individual
| and "carbon copy" to the jag-lovers, or vice versa; or does it matter?

Either will do, same difference. If you think your reply merits
distribution to the list-members then send it to the list. If it's
a just a personal comment send it to the individual.

| 2) Pardon my ignorance, but what does "IMHO" mean? I've been wrackin' my
| brain on this one for a week!

In My Honest Opinion, or more commonly In My Humle Opinion.

| 3) Where can I read previous postings on jag-lovers, that is, before I
| subscribed?

The archives are downloadable from the web-site, in the Infobase, or
directly at:

   http://www.sn.no/home/nick/archive.html

| 4) Exactly what is jag-lovers, I mean, is it a user group or use net or
| what?

Chief Jag-lover Lawrence Buja wrote the defintive definition
on this, read it on the web-site (surprise!). The link is

   http://www.sn.no/home/nick/jaglovers.html

Nick
- -- 
<<<  Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC  >>>     
<<<       Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto        >>> 
>>> The JagWeb  http://www.sn.no/~nick/jaguar.html <<<

------------------------------

From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 18:10:22 +0000
Subject: Re: The XJ6 Book

[ James Bannister <loner@peterboro.net> ]
| 
| And "20 Digests - Volume #1 1-20"?

The Jag-lovers mailing-list archives are available at the
web-site, direct link is:

  http://www.sn.no/home/nick/archive.html

Goes right back to October 1993.

| I think I might be missin' out on some good stuff here.

You are.

Nick
- -- 
<<<  Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC  >>>     
<<<       Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto        >>> 
>>> The JagWeb  http://www.sn.no/~nick/jaguar.html <<<

------------------------------

From: Larry Lee <leelarr@mail.auburn.edu>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 11:32:34 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Taxes for Roads

On Tue, 23 Apr 1996, Kirby Palm wrote:

> This'd be great, and fair, but there are logistical problems galore.  I
> suggest that paying for road maintenance and expansion with taxes on motor
> fuel might not be quite as fair, but it'd be a lot easier to implement --
> and it'd be a damn sight fairer than the present system!
> 
> 
It would indeed.  A differential fuel tax rate, based on the size, i.e., 
weight, of the vehicle buying the fuel wouldn't be hard to implement with 
today's pumping systems, either.  Whether the money comes from license 
fees, fuel taxes, or a combination of the two really doesn't matter.  
What matters is that the money collected from the different types of 
vehicles, and the allocation of that money, is known, and that the 
overall burden is fairly assigned.

Larry Lee

------------------------------

From: "Lauren E. Pratt" <pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 96 08:07:08 PDT
Subject: RE: Rust Removal 

Ryan asked about rust removal from chrome plated wire wheels.
If there is rust on the chrome, it indicates there are in pin holes
in the chrome and the base metal is exposed to moisture and is 
rusting. You can remove the rust, but the rust can return.
A good heavy coat of wax will help, after the rust is removed.

The product to use to remove the rust is a mild phosphoric acid,
which can be obtained from most automotive paint stores. It is
a metal etch or surface conditioner and works by chemical action
to convert the rust (iron oxide) to iron phosphate and water.
The color of the iron phosphate is close to the color of the
chrome wheel, so may hide quite well.

Again, protection is required to prevent re-rusting

Cheers and good luck   Lauren

65 E FHC 

- -------------------------------------
Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 4/24/96
Time: 8:07:08 AM

This message was sent by Chameleon 
- -------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: JW Beckmeyer <73131.3076@compuserve.com>
Date: 24 Apr 96 11:43:34 EDT
Subject: Hypoid Oil 

Hi there...

I have a couple of questions of a technical nature.  Can you enlighten me
please?

My MK II literature calls for hypoid gear oil in the tranny, rear end and
steering gear.

I'm guessing that this is because the gears in these various components are,
indeed, hypoid.  Am I right?

Second question:  what are the properties of hypoid gear oil that make it
different from "normal" gear oil.

Thirdly, am I safe using a synthetic gear oil for hypoid applications if the
weight specs match.

Thanks much and
Best regards,
Jim Beckmeyer    Union CIty, MI USA
e-mail: 73131.3076@compuserve.com
90 Jaguar XJ-40-Sovereign
60 Jaguar MK II

------------------------------

From: Larry Lee <leelarr@mail.auburn.edu>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 12:03:48 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: zero-emissions

On Wed, 24 Apr 1996, Kirby Palm wrote:

> Somebody would object to the heat emissions.  If you don't believe me, you
> need to look at the requirements for electric power plants.  At the one I
> worked at in Sanford, Florida, the plant (like most plants) was built along
> a river in order to provide cooling.  Tree-huggers objected to reinjecting
> river water back into the river a few degrees warmer than the surrounding
> water.

Kirby's right about this one, and it's nothing new.  I worked on some of 
the early power plant cooling lake studies almost thirty years ago for 
Texas Power & Light Co.  The huggers howled about thermal 
pollution...said it doomed the native fish. ("native" fish in a stocked, 
man-made lake???)

The funiest thing was that our biggest problem was keeping fishermen out 
of the condenser discharge canal, where the water was the hottest.  I 
wonder why they always wanted to fish there?  Could it be that the fish 
liked it there?  Muskies in Minnesota might be different, but Texas fish 
like it hot.

Nevertheless, cooling towers are a big (read expensive) thing nowadays.  
But has anybody investigated how a cooling tower in Alabama MIGHT be 
affecting a California Condor?  We can't take any chances, you know.

Larry Lee

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 13:10:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Higher Taxes, Anyone?

>>Of course, technology may come through.  Once a system is established for
>>automatically charging tolls as you drive by at 60 mph, maybe this solution
>>will work.
>
>A system like this has been working very good for about 7 years in Oslo. A 
>printed circuit board with a built in code (similar to the bar code on 
>groceries)  in a small plastic house is placed inside your windshield. 
>Signals from a transmitter placed 5 meters above the road is reflected from 
>this piece, and if the code is not recognized by the computer your car is 
>photographed. The system have been tested up to 140 km/h (90 mph).
>
>You pay for 1 year in advance so this is only for people who live or work in 
>the area. Others pay manually.

I'm aware that the technology is there and has been used; that's why I made
the suggestion.  But for the system to be "established" in order to meet the
objectives being discussed, EVERY car would need to be fitted with the item
and have an account to charge to.  And ALL the roads -- including little
neighborhood things as well as expressways -- would have to be fitted with
the reader.  This isn't even likely in the foreseeable future, and won't
become even a remote possibility unless someone pushes the issue.

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 11:09:08 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Re: Dumb And Not So Dumb Questions

James Bannister asked...
{1) When I reply to question and/or comment posted on jag-lovers do I =
{send my e-mail to <jag-lovers@sn.no> or do I e-mail to the individual =
{who posted the question and/or comment; or do I e-mail to the individual =
{and "carbon copy" to the jag-lovers, or vice versa; or does it matter?

 It depends on who you want to see your reply.  If you think that it
 warrents 600+ people spending 10 seconds of their valuable time reading
 your reply, then by all means reply to jag-lovers@sn.no (Yikes!! That's
 1.67 precious hours of life lost for each jag-lovers posting).  If it's
 something that's applicable just to the person to whom you are
 replying, then do us all a favor and send it to just that one person.

 When you are posting to the whole list, it's probably better that you
 send it directly to the jag-lovers rather than Cc:ing it.  Some folk's
 mail filters (like mine) only look at From: lines and not Cc: lines
 when deciding which mailbox to save a piece of incoming mail into.

{2) Pardon my ignorance, but what does "IMHO" mean? I've been wrackin' my =
{brain on this one for a week!

 COL, you are a newbie...  IMHO means In My Humble|Honest Opinion.
 There a zillion more of these explained in some list somewhere.

{3) Where can I read previous postings on jag-lovers, that is, before I =
{subscribed?

 It's up on the jag-lovers archives.  The info on how to get there
 should be in the "Welcome to jag-lovers" file that you recieve when you
 first signed onto the list.

{4) Exactly what is jag-lovers, I mean, is it a user group or use net or =
{what?

 It's a mail-group or mail-list (mail-groups are good for keeping on
 topic and keeping the "My #insert(RANDOM_CAR) can smoke your Jag"
 riff-raff out).

{I promise I won't ask anymore dumb questions. Thanks a lot.

 Then you aren't going to get much out of this group.  Don't be scared
 to ask dumb questions as long as you've at least tried to think the
 problem thru.  The participants of this group get far more out of it
 than the lurkers.

 NICK-  These are good FAQ questions...  Can you blend them into the
        Welcome to Jag lovers file?

/\      Lawrence Buja           Climate and Global Dynamics Division
  \_][  southern@ncar.ucar.edu  National Center for Atmospheric Research
      \_________________________Boulder,_Colorado___80307-3000__________

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 13:58:53 -0400
Subject: Examples of Tree-Hugging -- No Jag Content!

> The huggers howled about thermal 
>pollution...said it doomed the native fish. ("native" fish in a stocked, 
>man-made lake???)

Near here, a paper mill dug a canal in order to dump its effluent into a
nearby river.  The flow in the river is large enough that the effluent has
not posed a problem.  But, lo and behold, somebody decided to declare the
canal itself a "navigable waterway", and charged the mill with polluting it!
Such companies now know better, and install pipelines instead of canals;
function is exactly the same, but the tree-huggers don't seem to get as riled.

We have one pulp mill that has been using a small river for discharge for
decades, and has cleaned up its effluent immensely over the years.  Nobody
locally minds, the locals are happy for the work and the effect on the local
economy.  Outsiders are all over its case, though, and it looks like the
company will install a 25-mile pipeline to the Gulf -- and the river will
probably dry up, since the effluent is about all the water in it.  Either
way, the effluent ends up in the Gulf, which is universally agreed to be no
problem; there's nothing toxic in the effluent.

Power plants have water treatment facilities, and water treatment involves
backflushing anion and cation tanks.  The results are acids and alkalis that
need to be disposed of.  Used to just dump in the river and nobody ten feet
downstream could tell the difference, but no more.  Now anything dumped in
the river must be within x of the same PH as the river water, so usually the
stuff is collected, mixed, and a little acid or alkali added to bring the PH
within limits -- and then dumped into the river.  But one plant got
creative; they installed a pump to draw a bunch of water out of the river,
used it to dilute their acids or alkalis, and dumped it back in the river.
The PH limit was met at the point the mixture entered the river, but
somebody noticed that they were really just dumping the stuff in the river,
and they had to spend oodles of $$$ taking the system back out and putting
in the same neutralization tank everyone else has.

Yet one more example: In downtown Tallahassee, the complex of state
government buildings is cooled by a system of chillers that use groundwater
to reject the waste heat.  Water is pumped out of the underground water
table, run through the heat exchanger, and then pumped back into the water
table, a little warmer than it started but otherwise unchanged.
Unfortunately, there are laws in this state governing what can be injected
into the groundwater table, and the water being pumped OUT of the water
table doesn't meet them!  So, before reinjecting the water they just pumped
up, they must purify it enough to meet the reinjection requirements.

>The funiest thing was that our biggest problem was keeping fishermen out 
>of the condenser discharge canal, where the water was the hottest.  I 
>wonder why they always wanted to fish there?  Could it be that the fish 
>liked it there?

At a plant at Turkey Point, south of Miami, the workers wondered if the
lobsters might be attracted to the heat.  They brought in a single lobster
trap, and in 8 hours caught enough lobsters to fill 4 -- that's right, FOUR
- -- 55-gallon drums full of lobster!

Right next door at the newer nuclear plants, they weren't allowed to use the
seawater for cooling, so they dug a series of canals and pump salt water
back and forth to reject the heat.  They decided to put these canals to good
use by commercially raising shrimp in them.  And since the passageways in
the heat exchangers are over an inch in diameter, they decided to avoid the
losses associated with screens and just let the shrimp swim right through
the heat exchangers.  Worked great for a while, then they ran into trouble.
Turns out that the warm water resulted in world-record shrimp measuring over
8 inches long, and they plugged up the heat exchanger but good causing an
emergency shutdown of a nuclear power plant!  I'm sure the nuclear
doomsayers are just as happy as the tree-huggers.  Reportedly, when they
took the cover off the heat exchangers, they had hundreds of shrimp staring
at them -- they were all stuck in the tubes tail-first.

I have said it before, and I'll say it again: We will not advance as a
civilization until we learn to ignore the lunatic fringe!

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: Patrick Krejcik <pkr@SLAC.Stanford.EDU>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 12:09:39 -0700
Subject: Re: Hypoid Oil

JW Beckmeyer wrote:
> My MK II literature calls for hypoid gear oil in the tranny, rear end and
> steering gear.
> 
> I'm guessing that this is because the gears in these various components are,
> indeed, hypoid.  Am I right?
> 
> Second question:  what are the properties of hypoid gear oil that make it
> different from "normal" gear oil.
> 
> Thirdly, am I safe using a synthetic gear oil for hypoid applications if the
> weight specs match.
> 

Jim,

hypoid oil contains sulfur, giving it both a distinctive smell and the ability to 
stick to metal surfaces under the high pressure at the contact points of hypoid gears.
Transmissions that specify non-hypoid oil are those that contain components like 
synchro rings that are made of alloys that are attacked by sulfur.
The lesson is, use the correct oil for the application. Putting hypoid oil in a 
non-hypoid box eats it up, and not using hypoid oil in a hypoid box means you are not 
providing adequate lubrication under load.
Now synthetic oil is also supposed to have superior adhesion properties on metal 
surfaces. Hence the advertisements showing engines with the oil drained out. But the 
question is whether synthetic oil gets squished out from between the gears under 
pressure more or less than hypoid oil. I don't know the answer to that one, but I'd 
like to!

Cheers, Patrick.

'65 Series I 4.2 E-Type FHC

------------------------------

From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 13:18:36 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Please stop the No-Jag-Content postings.

Just a gentle reminder that this is a list for the discussion of
subjects closely related to Jaguar automobiles.  As interesting as the
off-topics posting tend to be, there are other more appropriate forums
for them and they don't belong here.

Personally, my mailbox is overflowing and I'm spending more time
deleting off-topic posts than I am reading on-topic postings.

/\      Lawrence Buja           http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern/  
  \_][  southern@ncar.ucar.edu  National Center for Atmospheric Research
      \_________________________Boulder,_Colorado___80307-3000__________

------------------------------

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #60
*******************************

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jag-lovers-digest         Thursday, 25 April 1996      Volume 02 : Number 061

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jim Goring <jgoring@ccnet.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 12:27:45 +0000
Subject: Re: Higher Taxes, Anyone?

Kirby Palm wrote:
printed circuit board with a built in code (similar to the bar code on
> >groceries)  in a small plastic house is placed inside your windshield.
> >Signals from a transmitter placed 5 meters above the road is reflected from
> >this piece, and if the code is not recognized by the computer your car is
> >photographed. The system have been tested up to 140 km/h (90 mph).

> And ALL the roads -- including little
> neighborhood things as well as expressways -- would have to be fitted with
> the reader.  This isn't even likely in the foreseeable future, and won't
> become even a remote possibility unless someone pushes the issue.

ohh neat.  then big brother would know exactly where everyone is at all times.  
plus of course how fast they are going.  how convenient.  Am I the only one 
who finds this scenario chilling.  (no Norweigian pun intended.)

- -Jim Goring

------------------------------

From: TezFair@aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 15:33:31 -0400
Subject: Re: XK8 Engine

The XK8 is a totally new engine for Jaguar, its not a hybrid or a development
from some other lump. Thats why nobody has yet seen the engine close up, only
at a distance. The comparions may come from the ancillaries that are fitted
to the engine as they are Ford sourced.
I hope this will answer any questions.
Terry

------------------------------

From: TezFair@aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 16:40:29 -0400
Subject: Re: XK8 Engine

The XK8 is a totally new engine for Jaguar, its not a hybrid or a development
from some other lump. Thats why nobody has yet seen the engine close up, only
at a distance. The comparions may come from the ancillaries that are fitted
to the engine as they are Ford sourced.
I hope this will answer any questions.
Terry

------------------------------

From: henning@fp.com (Eric Henning)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 16:50:13 -0400
Subject: XJ6 idle

Hi all,
In search of an XJ6.  Test drove an '86 today.  Ran quite smooth but idles
roughly at 500 rpm (shakes up and down, would probably be considered cool in a '69 Chavy Nova)e[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[De[D
'69 Chevy Nova).  What is the normal idle speed for an '86 XJ6? and should you
not be able to tell if the car is even running? Won't buy this car anyway since the
paint is quite bad (worse than most).
thanks
Eric Henning
henning@fp.com
'80 Fiat Spider
'90 Caravan
'92 John Deere

------------------------------

From: Tom Walker <Tjwal@cris.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 17:18:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: two mile an hour accident

Hmmmmmm, I thought even automatics could be put into neutral. A gear shift
on the column or the console couldn't have been that far away

------------------------------

From: tony goodall <tony@goodall.u-net.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 22:38:39 +0100
Subject: Re: Higher Taxes, Anyone?

At 13:27 24/04/96 +0100, Jim Goring wrote:

>ohh neat.  then big brother would know exactly where everyone is at all times. 

I thought that was what portable phones were for ;-)

cheers
tony
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dr. A. Goodall       http://www.u-net.com/~goodall/
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

From: lwalden@ebmud.com (Lee Walden)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 14:42:43 -0700
Subject: Re: Examples of Tree-Hugging -- No Jag Content!

Here's some more Kirby...

At 13:58 1996/04/24 -0400, Kirby Palm wrote:

>Yet one more example: In downtown Tallahassee, the complex of state
>government buildings is cooled by a system of chillers that use groundwater
>to reject the waste heat.  Water is pumped out of the underground water
>table, run through the heat exchanger, and then pumped back into the water
>table, a little warmer than it started but otherwise unchanged.
>Unfortunately, there are laws in this state governing what can be injected
>into the groundwater table, and the water being pumped OUT of the water
>table doesn't meet them!  So, before reinjecting the water they just pumped
>up, they must purify it enough to meet the reinjection requirements.
>
>
The E.P.A. requires municipal water companies to add Chlorine to the water
so that there is a certain residual level at the tap farthest from the
treatment plant.  No discussion was made about "history" showing that there
haven't been any water related illnesses or problems, just increase the CL2
level.  My neighbor came over to complain that the tap water had more
chlorine in it than he kept in his swimming pool.  The best part is.... If
we have to "dump" water from one of the reservoirs, we can't let it run
"down the drain" as we'd be polluting the environment with "chemically
treated" water.  Talk about having it both ways.

In another example of Wash D.C. stupidity, the E.P.A. mandated that the
effluent from wastewater systems had to be 80% cleaner then the influent.
The problem for the city of Anchorage Alaska was the influent was so clean
they could never obtain the 80%.  The wastewater officials talked all of the
local fish processing centers into dumping the fish "waste" into the system
so that they could remove it in the plant and obtain the required thresholds.

Lastly, my company is on the hook for poluting the Mokelumne River because a
mine operated on behalf of the federal government is dumping toxic heavy
metals into the river, which with the approval of the Corps of Engineers, we
dammed in 1964.  The mine is abandoned.  No known owners.  We built coffer
dams to try and keep the metal leachate out of the river, and now we're
responsible for "cleaning up the mess".  Lee

------------------------------

From: BSherw@aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 18:09:22 -0400
Subject: XJ-6 hood ornament placement  [84 XJ-6]

Chris Howard asked: <....what is the correct placement for the hood
ornament?> 
[on 84 XJ6]

On my '85, the front edge of the ornament base is 3 and 3/16 inches aft of the grill edge. Brian Sherwood, '85 XJ-6 From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com Date: Wed, 24 Apr 96 15:09:08 PDT Subject: Re: More Auto vs Manual with no Jag Content How many automatics can get to 100K without significant maintenance. Every single automatic my family has owned has lasted 100K without any maintenance. In fact, I cannot think of any Japanese car that will have the automatic go out in under 100K miles. As for maintenance, typically the most you'd ever need to do is a fluid change. Of course, Jags seem to be the exception. The BW units on series III XJ's don't have a very good reputation. Roger Peng                                     (408)765-7863 Intel Corporation Design Technology, Physical CAD From: TVJohnMM@aol.com Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 18:26:43 -0400 Subject: Re: XK8 = SP8 Whilst it has been noted that there are many uncanny similarities between the recently introduced XK8 and the much beloved technological wonder the Daimler SP250, it should be noted that the Daimler was a four speed stick shift and therefore a "SPortscar" and the XK8 is an automatic and thus at best - a grand tourer.   Perhaps the supercharged XK8 may aspire to sportscar status if Jaguar mounts little up & downshift buttons somewhere.   ... John  '90 XJ40  currently formerly - Daimler SP250 push to start team member From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu> Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 18:57:55 -0400 Subject: Re: Higher Taxes, Anyone? Signals from a transmitter placed 5 meters above the road... ohh neat.  then big brother would know exactly where everyone is at all times.   plus of course how fast they are going.  how convenient.  Am I the only one  who finds this scenario chilling.  (no Norweigian pun intended.) Hey, you gotta look at the good side.  Cops would no longer need to spend 90% of their time and resources trying to stop speeders, perhaps could spend a little more effort actually fighting crime!  I know, I know, unwarranted optimism. You also would find that speeding would change from a game between drivers trying to see how much they can get away with against cops trying to reach a quota, to an absolute certain ticket.  Nobody would speed.  Then, perhaps, we can actually get some support for establishing reasonable speed limits, or eliminating them altogether. Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,   |  some rules must be broken. |          -- Palm's Postulate From: charles daly <cdaly@passport.ca> Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 20:27:18 +0100 Subject: E-Type interior mirror Hi all, Looking for help again. ('62,Series 1, roadster) I am about to recover the dash pad and although I know how the interior mirror (with post from top of screen to dash) installs, I don't know how you "get through" the dash cover.  Surely you don't just punch a hole through it (does Shirley have an E-Type?)  The original is either in the Smithsonian or a dumpster somewhere and whoever covered this one, covered the entire dash, vents, mirror mount and all.  Anyone with this type mirror please tell me how to do this.  I'm not in a hurry, except that the dash top is in my hands while I type this :) Charles Daly '62 E-Type, ots From: John Elmgreen <100353.1733@compuserve.com> Date: 24 Apr 96 20:28:37 EDT Subject: Originality James Canedy said to Terry - keep the seats original and don't worry about the guy who won the trophy.  Let me add my agreement as well!   I would much rather see an original 90% car than a restored 99% car.  I would also rather see a total "heap" restored (not much original left of it anyway) than a really nice old original car restored.  With the latter, I have seen one or two terrible examples of "improving" on original, so that noone else will ever know what that car once was for so long.   Re XK tyres: despite having had 7 XKs over 26 years, my experience is limited really to Pirelli Cints 185 x 16 which I think are the best tyres for an XK, and Avon Turbospeeds - original style cross ply.  The Avons do not hold on as well, and roar (the Pirellis can squeal).  But Pirellis seem unobtainable in Aus at present and even when available are a huge price.   Other availables would probably be Dunlops, but the rest would be truck etc tyres rated for 75 mph etc.  What can you get in the UK and USA? Andy:  I will add you to the list.  Initially, we swapped mesages usually off the list, but then Nick suggested they go to the list.  But any queries you want to send in, or comments, should be addressed to all in the XK group, as not all in that group are Jag Lovers subscribers.   From: Tommy <loner@peterboro.net> Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 20:31:11 -0400 Subject: RE: Placement of Aftermarket 1984 xj6 hood ornament When I bought my 1980 XJ6 in the mid '80's I had the dealer install a = leapin' cat hood ornament. Several attempts by neighbouring kids only = managed to loosen it, and this was a high falutin' neighbourhood (I = guess kids will be kids, as in little f*ckers). About five years ago = someone finally managed to rip it off, literally, leaving a bit of a = twisted bonnet to contend with, and I was living out in the sticks at = the time - no neighbours for miles. I won't bother replacing the ornament, partly because it wasn't = original, partly because it always seems to attract a vandalistic (?) = element, partly because I don't have a replacement and I ain't gonna buy = one, and partly because it always looked a little awkward on the front = of the car - sort of detracted from the car's sweeping lines. This last = reason is the same reason I won't be fixing mud flaps to the wheel wells = just my personal taste. In any case, I ventured out to the garage/tent, braving the snow (!) = falling right now, and measured four inches (approximately) from the = horizontal edge of the chrome grill. Naturally, you'll want to ensure = it's placed dead centre on that raised portion of the bonnet and also = ensure that the two holes (?) you drill into the bonnet don't interfere = with anything on the underside of the bonnet. Otherwise I don't think = it's that critical. I've seen some leapin' cats fore and aft of where = mine was located. Tommy. loner@peterboro.net "This green and pleasant land - Cavan Ontario" From: 	Chris Howard[SMTP:christopher@netmanage.com] Sent: 	Tuesday, April 23, 1996 10:48 AM To: 	jag-lovers@sn.no Subject: 	Placement of Aftermarket 1984 xj6 hood ornament Thanks to the excellent resources here I finally called Welsh Jaguar and = ordered a new antenna for Tiffany (1984 xj6 vp) and also had them throw = in a hood ornament, question is what is the most standard placement of = the ornament ? i guess the best measurement would be from the top of the = grill chrome to the ornament, gime me some ideas .... thanks ahead of time. =20 Christopher Howard E-mail: christopher@netmanage.com 4/23/96                              2:48:26 PM Chameleon - The Best Windows TCP/IP applications Chameleon - The Best MacOS TCP/IP applications WebSurfer - The Best Web Browser ECCO      - The Best Workgroup productivity tool Swift     - The Best Terminal Emulation Suite NewtWatch - The Best Desktop Management=20 From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell) Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 20:41:16 -0400 Subject: Re: [3] Old cars, safety, fuel prices, etc Well Kirby, the logic behind it is even more twisted than you might have feared. The emissions inspection law has a provision that once you have spent a specific (and fairly low) amount of money trying to pass, you get an automatic waiver.   How's that for dumb.  You have to pass emissions inspection, but if a tune up  won't fix it, we'll give you a lifetime waiver.  The theory is that the poor  can't afford new cars or lots of expensive cars, but they do need their clunker  to get to work.  If you force them out of their car, it'll just create a lot of  messy discrimination lawsuits.  The obvious extension was to not even bother  with cars more than 20 years old.  It would cost too much to administer and  wouldn't actually accomplish anything. There is also a bit of more reasonable logic at work here.  Since the DMV  collects your mileage with every safety or emissions inspection, they have a  good statistical idea of the distribution of miles by vehicle age and the  distribution of vehicle age within the total vehicle population.  The  information I saw published back when all this was being debated seemed to show  that the miles and actual pollution from 20 or older cars was statistically  insignificant.  The newer cars average many more miles per year and the actual  population of over 20s is relatively tiny.  Despite the much greater pollution  by a 20 year old car when compared to a new car, if both drove equal miles and  met the requirements at time of manufacture, the difference in usage and vehicle population meant that most of the pollution came from 10 and younger cars, and  virtually all from 20 and younger.  So they decided there just wasn't much to  gain.  This was especially true, since the areas with the highest pollution  (Northern Virginia) have fewer old cars per capita than the rural areas. Personally, I just heaved a sigh of relief that I didn't have to adjust the  carbs of the E into "pass the test" mode anymore.  MikeC m.cogswell@zds.com Reply Message -------------------------------------- <snip> Here in  the Commonwealth of Virginia... The emissions inspection  does not apply to vehicles more than 20 years old. Please, someone explain to me the logic in this.  Is pollution by 20-year-old cars somehow less harmful than pollution from newer cars?  Does somebody think that if a car passed the tests for 20 years, it will no longer pollute for the rest of its existence? This REALLY strikes me as dumb.  The 20-year-old cars are PRECISELY the ones that require emissions testing the most!  It seems to me that this exemption is encouraging people to keep driving their old buckets whenever possible. <snip> Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,   |  some rules must be broken. |          -- Palm's Postulate From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell) Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 20:59:02 -0400 Subject: Re[2]: Higher Taxes, Anyone? Actually, such a toll collector exists.  My wife and I both commute on a toll  road.  The tolls are "collected" from a transponder mounted on the inside of the windshield behind the rearview mirror.  I just drive through the toll plaza,  albeit with a 20 mph speed limit at the moment.  There will supposedly be some  new "Fastoll" (the name of the system) only lanes soon.  Hopefully, without the  20 mph speed restriction.  As it is, I've been experimenting at night when  there's no one looking.  The system seems to work fine (better actually) at  higher speeds. MikeC PS Regarding public versus private toll roads.  I pay $ 0.25 one way to get to  work on a public toll road.  My wife pays $ 0.50 to go farther on the same road. Maximum end-to-end toll is only $ 0.85.  I only pay once, she pays twice (the  most possible payments no matter where you start and stop.)  The road paid  itself off in only a couple of years, way ahead of expectations due to heavier  than anticipated usage. Now we're paying for additional lanes.  The road was  recently extended by a private company.  Any distance traveled on the private  road is $ 1.75.  Guess which road is very underused and way behind on projected  usage growth and revenue. M Reply Message ----------------------------------- From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu> Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 08:40:26 -0400 Subject: Re: Higher Taxes, Anyone? How about letting private companies build toll roads ?  That way the users pay, too, without the inherent inefficiencies of resource allocation by the state. The only problem is that we'd average about 2 mph trying to get anywhere. Can you imagine how many tolls you'd have to stop and pay on your way to work each morning? Of course, technology may come through.  Once a system is established for automatically charging tolls as you drive by at 60 mph, maybe this solution will work. Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,   |  some rules must be broken. |          -- Palm's Postulate From: Tom Golodik <tgolodik@cybernex.net> Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 22:32:01 -0400 Subject: Re: Higher Taxes, Anyone? Kirby Palm wrote:
> 
>And ALL the roads -- including little neighborhood things as well as 
>expressways -- would have to be fitted with
> the reader.  This isn't even likely in the foreseeable future, and 
>won't become even a remote possibility unless someone pushes the issue.
> 

In what is probably a remarkably enlightened move for four distinctly 
autonomous (no pun intended) governmental transporation bodies, the NJ 
Turnpike, the Garden State Parkway, the Atlantic City Expressway and the 
Port Authority of New York and New Jersey have just jointly awarded a 
contract to install a single system for automatic toll readers.  They've 
chosen the system currently in use by the New York Thruway, called EZ 
Pass, which allows cars to pass through a toll lane at about 30 mph.  Is 
this an anomoly or is there hope?  Doesn't meet Kirby's requirement that 
all cars be fitted with the device, but definitely a step in the right 
direction and I'm getting mine as soon as they are available.

Tom Golodik

------------------------------

From: jamesc@oasis.novia.net (jc)
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 20:58:04 -0500
Subject: Re: E-Type interior mirror

CHARLES
    YOU HAVE TO CUT A SMALL NOTCH AT THE VERY BACK OF THE DASH PAD FOR THE
MIRROR SUPPORT. IF YOU ARE RECOVERING I WOULD SUGGEST A MOLDED REPLACEMENT
RATHER THAN DOING IT WITH MATERIAL. THEY ARE FAIRLY INEXPENSIVE AND WHEN
DONE PROPERLY CAN NOT BE TOLD FROM ORIGINAL
      JIM CANEDY

   >Looking for help again. ('62,Series 1, roadster)
>I am about to recover the dash pad and although
>I know how the interior mirror (with post from
>top of screen to dash) installs, I don't know how
>you "get through" the dash cover.  Surely you don't
>just punch a hole through it (does Shirley have an
>E-Type?)  The original is either in the Smithsonian
>or a dumpster somewhere and whoever covered this
>one, covered the entire dash, vents, mirror mount
>and all.  Anyone with this type mirror please tell
>me how to do this.  I'm not in a hurry, except
>that the dash top is in my hands while I type this :)
>Charles Daly
>'62 E-Type, ots

------------------------------

From: Tommy <loner@peterboro.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 23:06:08 -0400
Subject: RE: Auto vs. Manual in XK8

According to my local Jag dealership in Toronto (Robert Motors) the XJS =
was available with the five speed stick shift for 1992 and 1993. =
Apparently there was insufficient demand to continue offering it. This =
is in Canada, but may extend to the States as well.

Personally, manual is my way to go. In fact, I went from a Honda Civic 5 =
speed to a XJ6 automatic and missed the manual so much I sought out a =
car meeting three criteria:

1) it had to be an open two seater;

2) it had to be a stick shift; and

3) it had to be a Jag.

So I bought a '71 E-Type.=20

Mind you, I've never driven a big car with a stick shift but I'm pretty =
sure I wouldn't be dissappointed.

Tommy.
loner@peterboro.net

"This green and pleasant land - Cavan Ontario"

- ----------
From: 	rpeng@cadev6.intel.com[SMTP:rpeng@cadev6.intel.com]
Sent: 	Monday, April 22, 1996 6:49 PM
To: 	Jag Mailing List
Subject: 	Auto vs. Manual in XK8

  Auto or manual for the XK8? I can see both sides, but I=20
really think the market is going to lean heavily toward the
automatic, especially here in the U.S.. Jaguar tried to sell
some manual XJS's here in the last few years (anybody know=20
the exact model years?), but the appeal appeared to be limited.=20
I know, traditionalists require that a real sports car to have
a manual box, but I agree with one magazine article which
states that The XK8 is more of an XJS with an attitude,
than a pure sportscar in the sense of an E-type.

  Personally, I'd prefer an automatic. I like driving a Jaguar=20
to be an effortless experience; there's too much traffic around=20
town for manual transmission to be enjoyable. These days, automatic=20
transmissions are getting really good anyways, so it becomes a =
reasonable=20
choice even for the enthusiast.

- --=20
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------=
- ---
Roger Peng                                     (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------=
- ---

------------------------------

From: "John J. Lynch" <pdi@cnj.digex.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 96 23:09:21 PDT
Subject: Re: Headliner Repair

>From: "Shelly Bolden, Ext. 4770" <bolden@BBN.COM>
>Date: Tue, 16 Apr 96 0:26:56 EDT
>Subject: Re: Headliner Repair
>
>Just in case anyone is interested, I have two headliner sample cards 
>in front of me. The manufacturer is Consolidated Admiral Corp., 
>Woodbury, NY., (516) 921-2131, to call for a local distributor. 
>They have a nice selection of quality headline.

I was thinking about replacing the headliner in my 89 XJ-S V12.  The previous owner was a smoker and killed the original fabric. Any idea on cost to repair??

John J. Lynch
1989 XJ-S V-12
pdi@cnj.digex.net

------------------------------

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #61
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jag-lovers-digest         Thursday, 25 April 1996      Volume 02 : Number 062

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Tommy <loner@peterboro.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 23:49:17 -0400
Subject: RE: odo question

Hi Jag Lovers:

The speedometer and odometer on my 1980 XJ6 is also on the fritz. Any information or hints would be much appreciated.

Tommy.
loner@peterboro.net

"This green and pleasant land - Cavan Ontario"

- ----------
From: 	Dana Adams[SMTP:ad366@lafn.org]
Sent: 	Tuesday, April 23, 1996 1:17 AM
To: 	jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: 	odo question

Hello to all 

Could someone point me to a source for interior wood for a 1986 XJ6, 
preferably in the Southern California area.  Used would be great, as I 
only need to replace the center console piece, the dash and others are 
still good.

Also, on this same car, the speedo and odo are non-functioning.  Are they 
electronic on this year model?  What is the usual cause for failure, the 
sensor on the trans, (is it on the trans?) or the instrument itself?

Clues and suggestions greatly appreciated.  TIA for any help.

Dana

- --
333

------------------------------

From: Tommy <loner@peterboro.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 23:40:52 -0400
Subject: RE: XJ6 SIII 7" Headlights

Actually, on the Series 3, that flat portion is some sort of inner panel =
or fender; the duct rests on top of that and extends from the opening =
above the outside headlight to the footwell. The duct is some sort of =
expandable and flexible foil stuff (two inches in diameter) that is =
normally sold as an engine breather duct at most auto supply shops. Very =
similar to the flexible air ducting (?) found on the engine in my '71 =
E-Type 4.2 litre.

The interior controls are the same as Jan mentions.

Tommy.
loner@peterboro.net

"This green and pleasant land - Cavan Ontario"

- ----------
From: 	Jan Wikstroem[SMTP:Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au]
Sent: 	Tuesday, April 23, 1996 7:13 AM
To: 	jag-lovers
Subject: 	Re: XJ6 SIII 7" Headlights

Peter Morris wrote:
> Can't see into the wing to verify the presence of any ducting!

You can, too. Put a hand in above the front wheel and feel the top =
inside of=20
the wing. You'll notice it's flat and not curved like the top; that's =
the duct.=20
I don't know the SIII, but on my SII there's a pull handle on each side =
near=20
the front edge of the door, which controls the fresh air. There's a =
coarsely=20
knurled disk about 2in diameter on the outside wall of each footwell; =
that's=20
the outlet and you can turn it to change the direction of the air flow.

- - Jan

------------------------------

From: Hunt Dabney <hdabney@earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 23:59:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: RE: odo question

Tommy-

There is an electronic transducer at the tail end of the transmission
extension which sends pulses to the spedo and to the trip computer. If your
trip computer is measuring mileage and distance properly, you may have
something wrong with the spedo. If both are malfunctioning, then I'd suspect
the transducer.

Good luck!
Hunt

At 11:49 PM 4/24/96 -0400, Tommy wrote:
>Hi Jag Lovers:
>
>The speedometer and odometer on my 1980 XJ6 is also on the fritz. Any
information or hints would be much appreciated.
>
>Tommy.
>loner@peterboro.net
>
>"This green and pleasant land - Cavan Ontario"
>
>----------
>From: 	Dana Adams[SMTP:ad366@lafn.org]
>Sent: 	Tuesday, April 23, 1996 1:17 AM
>To: 	jag-lovers@sn.no
>Subject: 	odo question
>
>
>
>Hello to all 
>
>Could someone point me to a source for interior wood for a 1986 XJ6, 
>preferably in the Southern California area.  Used would be great, as I 
>only need to replace the center console piece, the dash and others are 
>still good.
>
>Also, on this same car, the speedo and odo are non-functioning.  Are they 
>electronic on this year model?  What is the usual cause for failure, the 
>sensor on the trans, (is it on the trans?) or the instrument itself?
>
>Clues and suggestions greatly appreciated.  TIA for any help.
>
>Dana
>
>--
>333
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

From: scikom@ibm.net (zafar)
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 07:44:37 GMT
Subject: Rhodesian XK

Dear John, 

It was amazing to know how a car can show up in places thousand miles from 
where it was delivered originally.
I met the owner of the Rhodesian XK (S800051) because he was looking for 
other owner of Jaguar  XK.

The owner told me last night that he bought the car in a VERY sad condition 
in 3 major pieces (engine, chassis and remnant of the body) with a number of 
boxes containing hundreds of parts. It was late 1987 / early 1988 when he is 
still running tobacco trading and done a lot of trading with Rhodesian 
clients, so this Rhodesian XK was bought using Rhodesian money.

The car is still under restoration with 4 new fenders (imported from UK), 
used 3.8 engine from Australia with 3 Webers (the original engine was beyond 
repair) and still looking for complete dashboard panel and meters (anybody 
can help on this ?).

If you would like to contact the owner this is the address:
Y.T. (Boetje) Widjojo
Jalan NKF No: 3
Kemang Selatan
Jakarta 12560, Indonesia
fax: (62)(21)7817668

Best regards

Zafar D. Idham

------------------------------

From: Baard Th Hesvik <baard@telesoft.no>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 10:07:48 -0700
Subject: Re: Taxes, anyone....

Hey Tony,

Those are the people who don't drive thirsty beasts like we do.....  We'll be 
going to the US drinking gasoline if the price continues raising (which it 
will).

BTW; you're right about the beer. If I remember right, the last time I bought a 
six-pack (Michelob), I paid  12 ($18.50). A "pint" (0.45 litre here) of 
Guinness costs some 5 at the pub(!)

Cheers.

Baard

- -- 
______                  _       !  Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
  /  _  /  _   _   _   /   /    !  Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
 / /_/ / /_/ /_  / / -/- -/-    !  T: +47 52735000  F: +47 52717040
/ /_  / /_   _/ /_/  /   /_     !  E-mail: baard@telesoft.no

------------------------------

From: Baard Th Hesvik <baard@telesoft.no>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 10:30:15 -0700
Subject: Re: Placement of hood ornament on XJ.

Christopher,

The best placement of your newly acquired hood ornament is: the mantle piece in 
your living room! It certainly has nothing to do on your car! I would think 
more than twice before drilling a hole in the bonnet.

Cheers.

Baard

- -- 
______                  _       !  Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
  /  _  /  _   _   _   /   /    !  Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
 / /_/ / /_/ /_  / / -/- -/-    !  T: +47 52735000  F: +47 52717040
/ /_  / /_   _/ /_/  /   /_     !  E-mail: baard@telesoft.no

------------------------------

From: Nick Johannessen <nick@sn.no>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 10:49:15 +0200
Subject: XJ13 on Tv and in magazine

Just noticed that the BBC's Top Gear programme is testing
a XJ13-replica this week. It's on BBC World at 10:30 CET
today, and my �#%�" video-player isn't set. Damn.

Also, the May issue of Thoroughbred and Classic Sportscar
has an 8 page spread on the one and only real XJ13. Nice
photos, haven't read the article yet.

Nick
- --
Nick Johannessen @ Work  email: nick@sn.no     http://www.sn.no/home/nick/
Phone: +47-2207 3981     Cell : +47-905 95132  Fax: +47-2207 3444

------------------------------

From: John Elmgreen <100353.1733@compuserve.com>
Date: 25 Apr 96 05:28:34 EDT
Subject: Rhodesian XK

Dear Zafar,  Thanks for the information.  Sounds like this car has been a
substantial challenge!   I do not have the colour or other number details.  They
can be obtained from the factory by sending them the info you have and
requesting confirmation.  Cost is 25 pounds sterling.  Regards,  John Elmgreen

------------------------------

From: Jag-Boy@eeyore.eagpde.co.uk
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 96 10:45:13 +0100
Subject: A/C gremlins

I posted a question similar to this last year, but no-one seemed to have any
definitive suggestions - constructive ones, that is :)

Over winter, the effect has gone largely un-noticed, but now the warmer
weather is coming back (at last:), I thought I'd have another bash.

To recap:

88 XJ-S 3.6 coupe, A/C and heater working fine.
The problem occurs whenever I open a window or the sunroof. The drivers-side
ashtray and surrounding area (RHD UK-spec car) begins to heat up ?!?. The
metal gets quite hot, but not dangerously so. I must STRESS that this happens
with the A/C left off throughout, so I fail to see how it could be 
attributed to a loosened A/C hose or similar. 

Has anyone else experienced anything similar, os is my cat possessed ?

Jag-Boy
< bb@eagpde.co.uk >

------------------------------

From: David Wood <David.Wood@durham.ac.uk>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 12:50:08 PDT
Subject: Re: Safety

On Mon, 22 Apr 1996 17:13:04 -0400 Kirby Palm wrote:

(lot's of stuff deleted...)

> Let's
> make that as clear as possible: if you wanna survive an accident, you do NOT
> want a rigid car!
>

(...and here...)

 If you gotta hit someone, pick the modern car to hit, since
> it will improve YOUR odds of survival!
> 
>       --  Kirbert     

...to make the point that you appear to be contradictory. Or is the conclusion that

1. hit a wall in a crumple zoned car,

2. hit another vehicle in a rigid car?

Cheers,

Dave Wood.

------------------------------

From: elgparts@xnet.com (Dennis Murphy)
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 07:55:14 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: RE: XK8 Engine

The April issue of Automotive Industries magazine has the XK8 on the cover
and an article. The article is more about the changes at Jaguar since Ford,
but they make the following statement ref. the X200:

"The car will have a V6 engine. Jag will probably piggyback on Ford's
program for the new modular V6 for the DEW98. Jag will most likely share the
V6 block, but the engine would have different breathing. "it must be a
unique Jaguar engine" Scheele (Chairman Nick Scheele) says, "We need things
that Ford doesn't, like very flat torque and a power surge under
acceleration. We can also afford technology Ford can't."  Like the new V8,
however, the V6 will probably be built at a Ford plant."

The last sentence is the only reference to the new V8 in the article. They
also mention that assembly time for the XJ6 was 419 hours in 1990 - now it
is under 70 hours and they are shooting for 35!

Dennis Murphy
Geneva, IL
1952 XK 120
1990 XJ-S

------------------------------

From: "Robert W. Drummond (918) 669.2844" <Robert.Drummond@penta.ps.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 08:42:13 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Automated Toll Roads

Here in Oklahoma our numerous toll-roads are now all equipped with the PikePass
system.  This automated device allows the vehicle to be identified at speed (75
MPH) as it passes through the toll plaza.  The newer roads were built so that
if you have a PikePass (transponder attached to lower-left corner of windscreen)
you just drive on.  If you don't have it, you exit to a traditional "stop and
pay cash" toll gate.

The tolls are charged against an account you maintain with the Oklahoma
Turnpike Authority.  Each month you receive a statement showing the tolls
charged and the current account balance.  When the account balance falls to a
pre-determined threshold, you must send them a $40 check.  The other option is
to give them a credit card number and they'll automatically bill the $40 as
needed.  The charge then shows on the monthly statement.

Some of our toll roads are now completely automated, using the PikePass and
exact change only automated toll booths.

Robert

Oh, and yes, the system can read the PikePass at speeds in excess of 75 MPH :-)

------------------------------

From: alindsay@fit.edu (ALEX H. LINDSAY)
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 09:17:58 -0400
Subject: Body work

        Does anyone have any recommendations for what primer to use on the
inside of enclosed body panels such as in the sills, etc.? Also on how to
prime panels with surface rust but otherwise sound? You see adverts in
Hemming's and Eastwood for primers that you paint over rusty surfaces (such
as Corroless (sp?)). Has anyone used these and do they work? Or is it better
to OSPHO the surface and then usa a regular primer? 
        I'm getting to the point on my E-Type of removing and replacing body
panels. However, before I can really begin, I need to have a paint and
protect plan in place. Any help/suggestions in this area will be appreciated.
        Thanks.
Alex H. Lindsay

------------------------------

From: John Elmgreen <100353.1733@compuserve.com>
Date: 25 Apr 96 10:15:16 EDT
Subject: xk register

- ---------- Forwarded Message ----------

From:	Don Tracey, INTERNET:dont@echuca.net.au
TO:	John Elmgreen, 100353,1733
DATE:	25-4-96 9:59 PM

RE:	xk register

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Dear John,Could you please place me on the xk mailing list .I am 
restoring an xk150 roadster s830345,bn 15307 build date 25 april 1958. 
as I don't have another 150 to look at close handy I feel that your list 
might be able to guide me.Also have a friend in town restoring a 140 
dhc. also would like a cc list.I want to know things like the 
measurement  for the holes in the front fenders/mudguards where the 
plinth plate bolts on ,also is the bottom of the door hinge mountings 
below the vent sealed or open mine had a plate welded but it may have 
been done to hide the rust?           Don Tracey .Echuca .Australia.

------------------------------

From: John Elmgreen <100353.1733@compuserve.com>
Date: 25 Apr 96 10:15:09 EDT
Subject: XK150

Dear Don,  Thanks for your note.  You should get a full list of CCs with this
message.  You are on my list now.  The idea is you copy all with any queries or
answers.  I was very interested to hear about your 150 roadster as it was not on
my Aussie list before - what is the car's history?  Presumably it came in from
the USA in the last 5-10 years?  What State?  Any previous owners known?  What
is the engine number?  There are only a few 150 owners in this group but we
should be able to help with your queries.  My own 150 lives in a garage down the
road, so I cannot always get out to it to do measuring up etc straight away.
Let us have your questions anyway.  Who owns the 140 DHC?  What is its history?
I would be interested to know.  By the way, Ii think you are only the 2nd Aussie
in this group - glad of the company!  Regards,  John Elmgreen

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 11:30:02 -0400
Subject: Re: A/C gremlins

>88 XJ-S 3.6 coupe, A/C and heater working fine.
>The problem occurs whenever I open a window or the sunroof. The drivers-side
>ashtray and surrounding area (RHD UK-spec car) begins to heat up ?!?. The
>metal gets quite hot, but not dangerously so. I must STRESS that this happens
>with the A/C left off throughout, so I fail to see how it could be 
>attributed to a loosened A/C hose or similar. 

Never experienced this myself, but -- just a guess -- it sounds like there's
a leak in the tunnel.  Opening the window or sunroof causes a lower pressure
in the cabin, thereby drawing air from under the car through this leak,
through the console, and into the car.  The leak blows directly onto the
ashtray area.  Since the air under the car has been through the radiator and
engine compartment, it's quite hot.

Might try driving with the console cover off.  With a window open, put your
hand over the area and feel around.

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 11:30:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Safety

>> Let's
>> make that as clear as possible: if you wanna survive an accident, you do NOT
>> want a rigid car!
>>
> If you gotta hit someone, pick the modern car to hit, since
>> it will improve YOUR odds of survival!
>> 
>...to make the point that you appear to be contradictory. Or is the
conclusion that
>
>1. hit a wall in a crumple zoned car,
>
>2. hit another vehicle in a rigid car?

Negative.  No contradiction intended or involved.  If you gotta hit someone,
the best possible scenario for your survivability is for BOTH cars to have
well-designed crumple zones.  Either car being rigid is bad -- for both drivers.

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: "Lauren E. Pratt" <pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 96 07:59:13 PDT
Subject: RE: Body work 

Alex asked about painting over rust

Don't do it, Alex. Any painted over rust will eventually
blister and you will have to do the complete job over again.
Do it right the first time.

Painting over rust may be OK for a Ford, but not an E-Type.
The original Ford paint job on my Bronco has gone to hell
due to improper application, and the dealer/factory won't
do any thing about it.

You are right to protect the inside of the sills, but don't
forget the rear mounts and the inside of the front sub frame.

Cheers   Lauren

65 E-Type under restoration
Flakey painted Bronco
- -------------------------------------
Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 4/25/96
Time: 7:59:13 AM

This message was sent by Chameleon 
- -------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Joseph Reilly <reilly@husc.HARVARD.EDU>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 13:51:12 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Stalling '75 XJ6

Dear Jag-Lovers,
     My XJ6L SII has been stalling after highway driving.  The Strombergs 
have been rebuilt, and now feature a manual choke.  I have also ruled out 
the fuel pumps which have been replaced.  The car starts and runs fine if 
I let it sit for five minutes.  Any ideas?
Gratis,
Joe Reilly
75 XJ6L, 175,000 Miles

------------------------------

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 16:47:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Auto vs. Manual in XK8

Roger:

So what if the market leans heavily towards autos?  The market leans heavily 
towards lots of other things I don't want to drive.  The best seller list in the
US is dominated by pick-up trucks.

The key word in your last paragraph is choice.  You're happy, because you don't 
want the effort of shifting.  I, on the other hand, don't have to drive around 
in traffic.  Instead I get to play on nice roads where I enjoy working my way up
and down through the gears on the twisty bits.  If they don't offer a manual, my
only choice is to not buy the car.

MikeC

- -------------------------------- Reply Message --------------------------------

From:     rpeng@cadev6.intel.com[SMTP:rpeng@cadev6.intel.com]
Sent:     Monday, April 22, 1996 6:49 PM
To:       Jag Mailing List
Subject:  Auto vs. Manual in XK8

  Auto or manual for the XK8? I can see both sides, but I really think the 
market is going to lean heavily toward the automatic, especially here in the 
U.S.. <snip>

  Personally, I'd prefer an automatic. I like driving a Jaguar to be an 
effortless experience; there's too much traffic around town for manual 
transmission to be enjoyable. These days, automatic transmissions are getting 
really good anyways, so it becomes a reasonable choice even for the enthusiast.

- -------------------------------------------------------------------------

Roger Peng                                     (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: gvbjr@pluto.skyweb.net (gvb)
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 17:03:16 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Brakes

I am going to attempt to replace the brake pads on my 1985 Jaquar XJ6.  The
procedure looks simple according to the manual except for one small item.
The manual mentions a special tool to compress the pistons back into the
bores in order to have enough clearance for the new pads. Anyone know what
this tool is and how it is used? Is it merely a lever type gadget.  Are
there tools in an auto parts store that can be used as a substitute?
Usually I just use a c-clamp but there doesn't appear to be enough clearance
to do this.

        Thanks
        George Buonanno

------------------------------

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #62
*******************************

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jag-lovers-digest          Friday, 26 April 1996       Volume 02 : Number 063

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: mailer-daemon@amdahl.com (by way of John Bartholomew <jdb70@amail.amdahl.com>)
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 96 14:25 PDT
Subject: ROOKIE HELP - XKE COUPE

I don't know if this is the correct forum for this, but here goes anyway.
I am going to look at 67XKE coupe this weekend and I have no idea what
I should look for when checking this vehicle. This would be my first CAT,
and my hands are shaking already at the thought of owning this beast.
I am a confident mechanic and have restored a MGB, so I have some good
incite to the process. However, I am not familiar with jaguar or the XKE,
other than I know what a beautiful vehicle it is. At this point in time I am
clouded by the thoughts of owning driving this and want to make a wise
decision on if I buy or don't buy. For this reason I am soliciting you good
people for some facts that will guide me on this quest.
What can I expect this vehicle to be worth when it is mechanically sound
and drivable? I know what the owner want's for it, but I need to make a
judgement on if this is what I want and how much I am willing to spend.
Can you good people feed me some data to help me make this *major* decision.
Is there a FAQ for XKE-2+2, if so where can I find it?
Is there a price range/guide I can refer to, where might that be?
Is there a mechanical check list available that will give me pointers on
what to look at specifically.

Are there any *gotchas* ? I do know the brakes are non functional. What will
this mean? Servo? New M/C? New calipers? Does this car have disc brakes all
round and are the rear ones similar to the XJ in that this is major work to
say replace/remove discs etc.?
I know the engine runs and the tranny, automatic, is near new (only a few
hundred miles). It has been stored for some time, but I do not know how
long. I am assuming, at this point and until I see it, that it must have
been in use or attempted to be put into use, because the engine runs
(battery was charged or replaced for that to happen.)
I am really going into this *blind* and I hate to be in that position so can
anyone help me by giving me relevant advice/guidance.
So far as I know, the car is straight and never been hit anywhere and has no
rust. There is the usual (?) front end damage to the hood at the snout,
small ding. I know it is difficult to assess a value with the limited info
available, but if the serials match and it is straight, what would a
reasonable value be 6k,10K? any guidance would be great. Thanks in advance.-
John.

- --------------------------------------------------------------------
John D. Bartholomew  Amdahl San Jose CA.    Usual disclaimers apply.
      408-746-6361 - Voice Mail            408-746-8016 - FAX
               Internet id - jdb70@amail.amdahl.com
- --------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Lauren E. Pratt" <pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 96 13:12:04 PDT
Subject: Hot ashtray

I don't know much about the XJ-S, but could there be
a cigar lighter in the ashtray that some how gets
turned on when the window is lowered thereby deflecting
the wiring or inner door panel?  Just a thought.

Cheers   Lauren
- -------------------------------------
Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 4/25/96
Time: 1:12:04 PM

This message was sent by Chameleon 
- -------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: danlb@nando.net (Daniel  Bowdoin)
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 96 19:05:49 EDT
Subject: More on my (sort of) philosophical question

I'm the culprit whose question provoked the extensive discussion several
days ago about old cars in general and E-type Jaguars in particular as
daily drivers. It was my first posting to this group and I was astonished
by the number (nearly 60) and quality of the replies. There were two or
three teases (perfectly OK by me), but the vast majority--both the
encouraging and the cautious--were extremely gracious and thoughtful and
were very useful to me in my thinking.

So, I'm now searching for a late Series I or early Series II E-type
roadster or coupe (condition will determine which of the two I finally wind
up with). Such cars are few and far between in these parts (Raleigh, NC)
and I haven't met with much (actually, I haven't met with any) success as
of now. The cars I have seen so far have been pretty, to be brutally frank,
ratty. It mystifies me how people could have so little respect for these
wonderful machines that they would allow them to deteriorate so badly. (Or
maybe I'm just expecting too much.) So it appears that I'm going to have to
search farther afield than I had originally intended--perhaps even as far
away as the west coast. I'm not very keen on buying a car sight-unseen,
based only on someone's description--my recent experiences of the
correlation between a car as described and a car as it actually is have
been less than encouraging--but that may be the only way to go.

In any case, let me thank you all once again for your help. It was very
much appreciated and very highly valued. I've obviously stumbled onto an
exceptionally civilized group of people.

Best regards / Dan Bowdoin

------------------------------

From: alindsay@fit.edu (ALEX H. LINDSAY)
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 09:17:58 -0400
Subject: Body work

  GOOD QUESTION !!!!

<        Does anyone have any recommendations for what primer to use on the
<inside of enclosed body panels such as in the sills, etc.? Also on how to
<prime panels with surface rust but otherwise sound? You see adverts in

  I recently replaced my inner/outer sills on my 71 "E". The ONLY primer to
use is the new epoxy based stuff. And, the only way to apply it is to BRUSH
it on.
  Perhaps I should back up a bit. You weld the inner sill in, then weld the
sill stiffeners to it. Then along the welded seam, of course, all the primer is
burned off. This is where rust will start. This is where rust started in the
first place, from the factory; unless body damage resulted in it starting
somewhere else first.
  So you clean the area real well, and use a good, hard, heavy coat of primer
to protect the area. No, it isn't original. BFD. No one will see it anyway.
I also painted the inside bottom 6 to 8 inches of each door with the epoxy
primer.
  Hell will be freezing over when my Jag starts  to rust there again.
  LLoyd  - I ain't fast, but I do good work! -

------------------------------

From: lwalden@ebmud.com (Lee Walden)
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 16:42:25 -0700
Subject: Re: Auto vs. Manual in XK8

At 16:47 1996/04/25 -0400, Mike Cogswell wrote:
>Roger:
>
>So what if the market leans heavily towards autos?  The market leans heavily 
>towards lots of other things I don't want to drive.  The best seller list
in the
>US is dominated by pick-up trucks.
>
>The key word in your last paragraph is choice.  You're happy, because you
don't 
>want the effort of shifting.  I, on the other hand, don't have to drive around 
>in traffic.  Instead I get to play on nice roads where I enjoy working my
way up
>and down through the gears on the twisty bits.  If they don't offer a
manual, my
>only choice is to not buy the car.
>
>MikeC
>
>
>
>-------------------------------- Reply Message --------------------------------
>
>From:     rpeng@cadev6.intel.com[SMTP:rpeng@cadev6.intel.com]
>Sent:     Monday, April 22, 1996 6:49 PM
>To:       Jag Mailing List
>Subject:  Auto vs. Manual in XK8
>
>
>  Auto or manual for the XK8? I can see both sides, but I really think the 
>market is going to lean heavily toward the automatic, especially here in the 
>U.S.. <snip>
>
>  Personally, I'd prefer an automatic. I like driving a Jaguar to be an 
>effortless experience; there's too much traffic around town for manual 
>transmission to be enjoyable. These days, automatic transmissions are getting 
>really good anyways, so it becomes a reasonable choice even for the enthusiast.
>
>
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Roger Peng                                     (408)765-7863
>Intel Corporation
>Design Technology, Physical CAD
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
Try push starting your automatic some day.

------------------------------

From: tony goodall <tony@goodall.u-net.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 20:42:31 +0100
Subject: Re: Auto vs. Manual, part II

<but aren't the brakes set to divide the braking the best way for the
<suspension when in neutral anyway??? (60/40, etc)

   Braking 'adjustment' is factory set. At high speeds, hard braking results
in rear wheels locking easily compared to front wheels which burn pads gripping
them so hard.
  "At high speed, front burns pads, rear burns tires;
   at low speed, front and rear burn tires."

   That old saying means that at low speeds it is easy to lock up all four,
but at high speeds the fronts don't lock up as easily. Some race cars are
equipped with an adjustable valve to distribute the braking force between
front and rear.
    LLoyd  - a one car accident, waiting to happen  -

------------------------------

From: Peter Rebbechi <"REBBECHI PETER"@a1.meoc02.sno.mts.dec.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 00:10:00 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: Toll Booths and speeds

In Victoria, Australia, they are building a network of roads to bypass
traffic lights, city centre etc, and are using transponders in cars to
charge people.  Legal speeds on freeways are 100 km/h.  They do not
anticipate any slowing, and even an increase in average speeds. 
transponders are purchased for $30, and billed per month.  Cameras
mounted on gantries photograph cars not fitted with transponders, and
send the bill in the mail.  The downside is that the authorities have
worked out that they can recognise individual cars, and estimate
average speeds between points.  This has been on trial for 2 yrs on a
major highway linking 2 cities, and the camera points are linked by
computer to calculate average speeds.  It is anticipated that speeding
tickets will arrive in the mail based on average speed between points
being over the limit.  Since the cities are 1000km apart, they have
removed all reason to speed over long distances.  the camera points
are now known, and if you consult a map, you can plan a 'rest' stop
for coffee etc to lower average speed.  BTW, speed design criteria for
freeway design is for a design speed of 120km/h for 80km/h limited
roads, 140 km/h for 100 km/h limited roads.  With an XJ40, well over
200 km/h can be seen for at least an hour at a time on this trip .

------------------------------

From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 96 21:00:08 EDT
Subject: XJ6 - door rubber seals

From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO  ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
*** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FE21
*** INTERNET - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM ***  IBMMAIL - AUIBMSPM ****
Subject: XJ6 - door rubber seals

 I've just finished replacing the rubber seal around my drivers door.
It took me 4 damn hours !  I did the back drivers side last week and
it took 2 hours !.

 What I found difficult with the front was that the rubber was very loose
right around the door. The back was nice and tight, and so stayed in
place while I used a bicycle tyre tool to wedge it in.

 I've got two doors to go, and would love to know any hints/tips to
make this easier to do....otherwise I think I'll pay a body shop or
trim shop to do the last two.....not worth the aggravation and effort
that I just went thru to save 50 bucks.

( at least there is no longer any wind noise coming through the
drivers side now.....new rubbers and furflex has given the door a
nice tight seal....)

***************************************************************
***************************************************************
REGARDS.......Shane

------------------------------

From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 22:00:40 -0400
Subject: Delanair

I need help - especially from those readers who are proffessionals or
otherwise very knowledgable about 1987 XJS heating/air conditioning.
I have removed the dash of my XJS to fix a heating matrix system leak.  The
unit is the Delanair type - not the older type described in my manual.  The
thing seems to be built so integrally to the car that I cannot for the life
of me figure out how to get the bugger out.  
My objective is to replace a leaking heater core, but I suspect corrosion has
caused further damage to electronics as the unit does not operate properly.

Specific question # 1:

I heard that the heater core can be removed more easily by itself by cutting
pipes etc., can this be done with the later model Delanair unit?

Specific question # 2:

Can the entire unit be removed from the car for inspection, and if so how?

Specific question # 3:

Is there a manual somewhere for the Delanair AC unit?

Thanks for any advice guys,

Julian Mullaney        
'87 XJS Convertible

------------------------------

From: ajbeale@squirrel.com.au (A.J. Beale)
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 12:17:59 -0700
Subject: Jaguar Cars

Please advise how I can join the mailing list, as I own an XJ40 and would 
like to correspond with other Jag owners.  Alan.

------------------------------

From: "Andy Broer" <andy_broer@taligent.com>
Date: 25 Apr 1996 19:14:52 -0800
Subject: Signing off for a bit

Mail*Link(r) SMTP               Signing off for a bit

All,

I am leaving my current job and moving to Cisco Systems in May, I will miss
all the fun for a time until I get my email sorted out. Just wanted to let you
in on our '83 XJS HE goings on before I go.

Took the car in to the shop for many expected repairs. The good news is the
stub axle is going to be fine. The bad news is the rear main seal needs to be
replaced. (Uhggg!) Well, my level of commitment to the Jag list just got
bigger, so I'll be back!

In the "while I'm away" category...a friend sent this url to me. Folks in the
US might make use of it. "http://www.nashville.net/speedtrap/" speedtrap info.

Andy Broer
'72 Triumph TR6
'75 Ferrari Dino 308GT4
'83 Jaguar XJS HE
'94 Ducati 900SS

------------------------------

From: Jan Wikstroem <Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au>
Date: 26 Apr 96 11:15:17 
Subject: Re: Brakes and MOT tests

Jim Isbell wrote (snip):
 >It would make more sense to test the driving skills of the
>drivers.  It is stupid drivers or at least stupid responses to situations
>which cause 99.9% of all accidents.

Amen, brother. I have personal knowledge of five deaths within easy driving 
distance of my home (on a narrow country road) definitely caused by incompetent 
drivers having a panic reaction to running off the bitumen with their nearside 
wheels. The poor bastard wrenches at the wheel to get back up, and when the 
nearside front gets back up and suddenly grips, the car shoots across the road 
and attempts to uproot a tree (a power pole in one case that I actually 
witnessed). A simple half-hour session, teaching a) that the situation is not 
dangerous and b) that the way to deal with it is to steer gently back up when 
convenient, would have saved I don't know how many lives.
Do our fearless leaders attempt to train drivers? Do they attempt to teach 
responsibility and consideration? Not much, they don't. If you can go around a 
city block, restart up a hill and park in a one-car space, you're in. And 
expected somehow to pick up the rest as you go along. The only good thing 
Australian authorities do is that a new driver is on probation for a year and 
has to display a sign to warn other road users of his/her/its inexperience. A 
P-driver is also expected to stay under 80 km/h, which is no way to gain 
experience, and keep his blood alcohol level under 0.2%, which should apply to 
all of us.
In my not so humble opinion, driver training should be approached in the same 
way as any other vocational training, with a set curriculum. For example, back 
in 1958, when I took my car licence in Sweden, it was compulsory to do a 
two-hour drive on a motorway, at night, near the speed limit and overtaking at 
least twice. The instruction I had on that drive has probably saved my life 
several times.
It wouldn't hurt if the driver training were also preceded by a mild 
psychotechnic test, sorting out complete morons, homicidal maniacs and people 
constitutionally incapable of judging speed and distance. This would of course 
require a considerable reorientation, as we need to stop regarding driving as a 
civic right and start understanding that it should be a privilege reserved for 
those who prove themselves capable of handling that lethal weapon, the car, at 
least without hurting others.
- - Jan
- -----------------------------------------
**Position vacant: flame suit tester, no experience required**

------------------------------

From: William Kroppe <kroppe@mich.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 22:58:08 -0400
Subject: Re: XK8 = Mustang

arnie@qnet.com (Ted Arnold) wrote:

>I have it on good authority, the mechanic who cares for my 3 Jags,  that the
>new XK8 is really a Ford Mustang with some different cosmetics. I have an
>appointment to see him tomorrow evening and he says he'll bring over the
>paperwork he has that explains it.  To start with it has the Mustang V8
>engine, etc, etc.  I'll keep you all informed as I find out more.  I hope
>I'm wrong.

Your hopes have been fulfilled.  I'm sorry, but your mechanic does not
know anything about what he is talking about.  The XK8 has NOTHING to do
with the Mustang.

I am an engineer in product development at Ford working on rear wheel drive 
vehicles.  I am closely involved with certain projects which give me a
a basis for knowing what I am talking about on this subject.

BTW, Tez is correct on this matter.

B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6

------------------------------

From: MOWOG67@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 23:00:22 -0400
Subject: Re: ROOKIE HELP - XKE COUPE

Hey there,
I was in your position last April.  I own 2 MG's  (71 MGB, 67 MGB GT) that I
restored in the last 7 years.  I had always wanted an XKE coupe 2+2 and
happened across one near my home town.  I was just as aprehensive.  Dont
sweat it,  it's British, You'll feel right at home in a couple of weeks.
  Look for typical rust (sills, battery box, etc).  Its a breeze to work on,
 you pretty much sit in the engine while you work on it!  Rear suspension is
a little intimidating but really straight forward once you look at it! (
inboard rotors! ) 
   As far as price,  hmmm...  In Hemmings the 2+2's range from 8K to 25K,
  8K is usually rusty.  If your car is solid, running well, and fairly good
looking, under 12K would be a great deal!  Let me know what you do!!

Jeff
71 MGB
67 MGB GT
69 XKE 2+2

------------------------------

From: BMack7316@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 23:45:02 -0400
Subject: XJS Seats

Mike wrote:
>I couldn't imagine why the company bothered.  I was told by the local dealer
that it >was done for insurance reasons, to get the car out of the high
performance two-seat 
>category.

Mike:
XJS are THREE seaters;  Jeez, I thought everybody knew that.  Jokes aside,
the backseat fits one adult comfortably if you mush him/her in at an angle.
 And, the best part is that two 5' 6", 100-120 lb. women fit swell on the
right-hand side. :-)

Brad Mack
85 SIII
85 XJS
92 JUV (Japanese Utility Vehicle)

"There he goes, rearranging the deck chairs on the Titanic..."    

------------------------------

From: BMack7316@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 23:45:41 -0400
Subject: Re: Auto vs. Manual, #147

My $.02.  If the majority of my driving was done alone on twisty, fun roads,
I would own a manual trans.  Since the opposite is true, an automatic is far
more practical.  It is somewhat more professional (in my line of work) not to
jerk clients back and forth with a stick shift.

Brad Mack

------------------------------

From: BMack7316@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 23:47:07 -0400
Subject: Re: 91 XJS Reliability

- ---------------------
Forwarded message:
Subj:    91 XJS Reliability
Date:    96-04-25 23:46:15 EDT
From:    BMack7316
To:      David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com

On the whole, Jaguars that are well maintained, and have not experienced
periods of neglect, are as reliable as any other automobile on the road.
 HOWEVER, some things cost a little more to fix when they do break or need
routine service or repair.

Take care,
Brad Mack

------------------------------

From: SteveAv@aol.com
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 23:50:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Auto vs. Manual, part II 

Roger Peng writes:
RP> Would you drive around in a RV just so that you can go camping once a
year? 

Jaguar's gonna build an RV now???  Just imagine the cost of reupholstering &
recarpeting!  On the other hand, it would be apropos for that little jaunt
down to South America to see its namesakes...
                                     -Steve A.

------------------------------

From: arnie@qnet.com (Ted Arnold)
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 22:58:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: XK8 = Mustang

>arnie@qnet.com (Ted Arnold) wrote:
>
>
>
>Your hopes have been fulfilled.  I'm sorry, but your mechanic does not
>know anything about what he is talking about.  The XK8 has NOTHING to do
>with the Mustang.
>
I hope you are right but I'll reserve judgement untill I see the material
where my mechanic got his info.  He claims his father is a stockholder in
Ford and in their current annual report the subject is approached.  I'll
keep you informed.  PS Actually my mechanic DOES know what he's talking
about regarding Jaguars; my '91 XJ40 just turned 100K and so far, not a
major problem under his care.

------------------------------

From: Stefan Schulz <jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 07:28:09 GMT
Subject: Bearing retainer adhesive

Hi,

Local suppliers offer Loctite 638 (high strength) and Loctite 641 (medium
strength) as retaining adhesives.  Which is the more suitable one for
fitting front wheelbearing races to a stub axle ?

Regards,
- --
Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk

------------------------------

From: Roly Alcock <roly@redac.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 09:53:30 +0100
Subject: Re: Stalling '75 XJ6 

Sounds like blocked fuel tank breathers.

Roly

>Dear Jag-Lovers,
>     My XJ6L SII has been stalling after highway driving.  The Strombergs 
>have been rebuilt, and now feature a manual choke.  I have also ruled out 
>the fuel pumps which have been replaced.  The car starts and runs fine if 
>I let it sit for five minutes.  Any ideas?
>Gratis,
>Joe Reilly
>75 XJ6L, 175,000 Miles

- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Roly Alcock, (Postmaster)       Principal Systems Engineer
Redac Systems Ltd,              Tel: 01684 294161 ext. 211
Zuken-Redac Group Limited,      Fax: 01684 298902
Green Lane,                     
Tewkesbury,                     E-mail: roly@redac.co.uk
Gloucestershire, GL20 8HE, UK   Web: http://www.redac.co.uk
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #63
*******************************

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jag-lovers-digest          Friday, 26 April 1996       Volume 02 : Number 064

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rennick, Kim (AS01)" <KRennick@p05.as01.honeywell.com.au>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 96 19:21:00 EST
Subject: FW: XJ40: Rust!

I posted this a few days ago but as yet there has been no response.
I realise that its pretty dry subject matter, compared to road funding and 
environmental concerns!  Does anyone have any experience to relate on this?
Help!...please???
Regards,
Kim

Folks,

On the outside of the rear door window frames of the XJ40, there is a small 
(approximately 2" * 3")  triangular piece of black painted metal that covers 
a similarly triangular strengthening fillet  containing the window channel. 
 I think that the black panel is rivetted onto the window frame

On my car (only on the LH door, mind you) this in-fill panel (ie the black 
painted cover, rather that the window frame or the door itself) is rapidly 
rusting to the point of extinction.  My esteemed Jaguar agent tells me that 
I have to replace the complete window frame, at a cost of (only) A$850, plus 
labour!  For some reason, I judged this to be not good value.

Has any XJ40 owner experienced a similar problem, and if so, tried to 
replace the triangular in-fill panel?  Can you give some pointers, like...
1) Must I  remove the  window frame (and hence the window glass) in order to 
replace the in-fill panel?
2) Is there a known source for a professional looking replacement, not 
attached to a complete window frame (and costing less than $850) ?
3) Any handy hints that I should know when attacking this?
4) How should a replacement panel be treated to avoid re-occurrence of the 
rust?

This rust is not exactly structural, but it offends me nevertheless. 
 Whenever I was & polish the car (which is often) it cries out for 
attention.

Thanks in advance,

Kim Rennick
__________________________________________________
|                                  
|   XJ40 3.6L Sovereign - my daily driver & weekend occupier
|   Citroen BX 19 GTI -  wife's daily driver & weekend occupier
|__________________________________________________

------------------------------

From: Paul Peard <Paul.Peard@BankersTrust.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 11:10:08 +0100
Subject: Re:  A/C gremlins [XJ-S]

Me too, my car is an '86 XJ-S V12 RHD UK car, a few days 
after I bought it last year the A/C stopped working (the fuse in 
the left hand console "cheek" blew). The effect was exactly as 
described (it was August so I had the windows open when the A/C 
stopped working) left leg get warm, ash tray heat up to the 
point where you don;t really want to touch them.

My guess at the time was there is some A/C plumbing that runs 
down through the transmission tunnel and that was warming up 
when the A/C wasn't on, but as you say, it only happens with the 
windows open.

So if your cat is possessed then so is mine.....

Regards
Paul

------------------------------

From: Melanie Brackett <brackett@uwimona.edu.jm>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 05:59:02 -0500 (GMT-0500)
Subject: Lucas Mechanical Fuel Injection

Dear Sir/Madam;
		I am in dire need of your assistance. I own a 1972 2.8 
XJ6 that I need to modify for better perfomance. I plan to turbocharge 
it. I also want to put some form of TUNABLE Fuel Injection system on it, 
and the Lucas system fit the bill. Although every one has something 
rotten to say about this system, I think that once I get it to fit my 
engine, I will get it to work. I already have most of it (took it off a 
Triumph 2500 PI MkII) but the pedestal (the part that joins the metring 
block and ignition distributor to the engine) does not fit. I know that 
Coventry used this system in the late 50's early 60's on their racing 'D' 
and 'E' types, so I know that some information exists somewhere on how to 
do this. If you can get me the location of such a pedestal, or the 
engineering drawings of this unit, I will be most grateful. I can be 
reached at brackett@uwimona.edu.jm. This is in Kingston, Jamaica. Keep up 
the fine work.
							Yours Truly,
							Mario James

------------------------------

From: charles daly <cdaly@passport.ca>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 09:23:10 +0100
Subject: re: Brad Mack to Mike

Re:
Mike wrote: (re:XJS seats)
>I couldn't imagine why the company bothered.  I was told by the local dealer
that it >was done for insurance reasons, to get the car out of the high
performance two-seat 
>category.

Brad responded:
Mike:
XJS are THREE seaters;  Jeez, I thought everybody knew that.  Jokes aside,
the backseat fits one adult comfortably if you mush him/her in at an angle.
 And, the best part is that two 5' 6", 100-120 lb. women fit swell on the
right-hand side. :-)

 Brad:
 re: an earlier post, if Jag is building an RV you could prob. get
 100, 5'6" women in!
 Charles Daly

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 09:23:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Brakes

>The manual mentions a special tool to compress the pistons back into the
>bores in order to have enough clearance for the new pads. Anyone know what
>this tool is and how it is used? Is it merely a lever type gadget.

Big pair of channel-locks usually works for me!

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 09:23:40 -0400
Subject: Brakes

Somehow I missed the message that started this.  That won't stop me from
jumping in, however!

><but aren't the brakes set to divide the braking the best way for the
><suspension when in neutral anyway??? (60/40, etc)
>
>   Braking 'adjustment' is factory set. At high speeds, hard braking results
>in rear wheels locking easily compared to front wheels which burn pads gripping
>them so hard.
>  "At high speed, front burns pads, rear burns tires;
>   at low speed, front and rear burn tires."
>
>   That old saying means that at low speeds it is easy to lock up all four,
>but at high speeds the fronts don't lock up as easily. Some race cars are
>equipped with an adjustable valve to distribute the braking force between
>front and rear.

Interesting theory.  When braking hard (from any speed), the weight transfer
from rear to front tends to make the rears lock up.  The fact that rears are
often drum brakes doesn't help.  Not sure why speed would make any
difference, though.

There is, however, another dimension to the theory.  When driving in snow,
it is generally considered desirable to have the rears do most of the
braking.  Since all braking must be done gingerly, the levels of braking at
both ends are much lower, and there will be little weight transfer.  To deal
with this, car makers do various things.

The simplist is to design the brakes to apply more stopping at the rear than
the front, but to limit the effects at the rear with some "proportioning
valves" or some such.  When brakes are gently applied, the rears come on
harder than the fronts; but as the brakes are applied harder, the rears
reach a limit and apply no more, while the fronts get stronger.

A couple British sports cars I've owned took a unique approach.  Instead of
having power brakes, they had power ASSISTED brakes -- the boost unit wasn't
at the brake pedal, but rather in the hydraulic lines; it could be located
anywhere in the car.  But the booster was located in the lines to the front
brakes only, so the rears were non-boosted.  Somehow, this did the same
effect -- the rears are stronger when gently applied, but the fronts come on
stronger under heavy braking.

Of course, nowadays we have ABS.  It's still a good idea to get the
proportioning right, though, so you don't start skidding on any tire until
all tires are near their limit.

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: Paul Peard <Paul.Peard@BankersTrust.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 14:25:51 +0100
Subject: Re:  Delanair [XJ-S]

Julian,

I don't have specific info on getting the thing out (I got 
someone to do mine ('86 XJ-S V12)) but in the process of coming 
to the conclusion that I needed to replace it I learned a little 
about how it works, Kirby book describes the operation of the 
flaps etc. really well and the Repair operation manual goes into  
detail about how it is supposed to work.

When you say the unit does not operate properly, what actually 
happens (or doesn't).

If you care to post the symptoms the list can have free for all 
doing the diagnosis.

Regards
Paul

------------------------------

From: "Richard King" <kingr@sabc.co.za>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 15:52:07 +0200
Subject: Re: Body work

I believe what is being referred to here is called a WELD-THROUGH PRIMER.
(or WELDABLE PRIMER)
The best one, I'm told is made by WURTH and is 95% Zinc in an epoxy solution, and is 
also expensive ($25-00 a pint in the US?)

 I have been looking for something similar in South Africa, the  paint 
shops I've spoken to have never heard of such a product! 

However, my problem is mainly interiors of doors, and I would say 
that a good ZINC-CHROMATE primer is quite good enough for this.
(I'm using Duco Durathane K etch primer filler)

I find its essential to physically remove as much rust as possible with a 
wire-brush - THEN use a good quality rust treatment (Polycell 
"Rusist") which turns the rust into a black (iron phosphate?) layer 
ready for painting. If you don't remove as much as possible of the 
rust, it's possible for the surface to be black, but for rust to still 
exist underneath.....  I don't like to use straight phosphoric acid 
solutions, as you really need to flush this well away after use, and 
its inconvenient to have to  wait for water in joints etc. to 
thouroughly dry out before painting.
Hope this helps!

QUOTE ****

From: alindsay@fit.edu (ALEX H. LINDSAY)
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 09:17:58 -0400
Subject: Body work

  GOOD QUESTION !!!!

<        Does anyone have any recommendations for what primer
to use on the <inside of enclosed body panels such as in the
sills, etc.? Also on how to <prime panels with surface rust
but otherwise sound? You see adverts in

  I recently replaced my inner/outer sills on my 71 "E". The
  ONLY primer to
use is the new epoxy based stuff. And, the only way to apply
it is to BRUSH it on.
  Perhaps I should back up a bit. You weld the inner sill in,
  then weld the
sill stiffeners to it. Then along the welded seam, of course,
all the primer is burned off. This is where rust will start.
This is where rust started in the first place, from the
factory; unless body damage resulted in it starting somewhere
else first.
  So you clean the area real well, and use a good, hard, heavy
  coat of primer
to protect the area. No, it isn't original. BFD. No one will
see it anyway. I also painted the inside bottom 6 to 8 inches
of each door with the epoxy primer.
  Hell will be freezing over when my Jag starts  to rust there
  again. LLoyd  - I ain't fast, but I do good work! -
************************************************************
    Specialised Optical Services - SABC Johannesburg
    Pvt Bag x41,  Auckland Park,  2006, South Africa
      Tel: 27 11 714 2205     fax: 27 11 714 2213
 http://www.sabc.co.za/units/henley/optical/default.htm
************************************************************

Thought for the day:
    Communist (n): one who has given up all hope
    of becoming a Capitalist.

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 10:26:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Auto vs. Manual, #147

>It is somewhat more professional (in my line of work) not to
>jerk clients back and forth with a stick shift.

Interestingly, for the longest time Rolls Royce limousines were not
available with an automatic -- because of the shifting!  A properly-trained
driver could produce a much smoother ride than an automatic, so purchasing a
Rolls included the training for your chauffeur.  Of course, A/T's are better
now, and most Rolls Royces appear to be self-driven these days, so I suppose
all this is ancient history.

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 10:26:58 -0400
Subject: What's That Noise? (XJ-S)

When I make a left turn in my 1983 XJ-S and accelerate out of the turn, I
get a knock-knock-knock sound from the vicinity of the left (inside) rear
wheel.  There does not seem to be a similar effect when turning right.

Interestingly, Marty Sullivan (on this list) described to me in person the
exact same symptom on HIS car.  The cars are several years apart, his is an
H&E convertible, mine has a 5-speed.

Anybody know what causes this sound?

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 96 21:00:08 EDT
Subject: XJ6 - door rubber seals

Shane asks about gluing rubber seals;

< What I found difficult with the front was that the rubber was very loose
<right around the door. The back was nice and tight, and so stayed in
<place while I used a bicycle tyre tool to wedge it in.

   The old stretched rubber problem, ehh!  The way I handle it is painfull
because it goes against what I want to do naturally. I don't like to wait and
go slow.
  After applying glue to both the door and the rubber, wait for ten minutes or
so before placing the rubber on the frame. To me, it is the longest ten minutes
in history.
  But then the pieces will stick together by themselves and you won't feel like
a one armed paper hanger.

    LLoyd   - I don't mind waiting except that it takes so long.  -

------------------------------

From: David Covert <davecove@microsoft.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 08:30:28 -0700
Subject: HE for a Series 1 XJ12?

>
>I am working on a '73 Series 1 XJ12. This is one of the pre-HE models.
>The pickup unit in the distributor has some frayed wires and one of the
>small bolt holes that hold it in place is cracked. It will cost about
>$100 to replace. I need to remove the timing rotor to overhaul the rest
>of the distributor (it sticks). The rotor is resisting my efforts to
>remove it and I can count on breaking it in my efforts. It costs about
>$100 also.
>
>So, if I am looking at about $200 anyway, I thought I would check into
>getting a HE ignition system. Does anyone know if it is feasible to
>retrofit a HE system to this engine? Any idea of cost? Could I expect
>an increase in hp and/or economy?
>
>
>Dave Covert
>
>...Particle Man, Particle Man, doin' the things a particle can...
>                                           They Might Be Giants
>

------------------------------

From: Stefan Schulz <jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 07:28:09 GMT
Subject: Bearing retainer adhesive

Whoa! Wait, What? Huh?

<Local suppliers offer Loctite 638 (high strength) and Loctite 641 (medium
<strength) as retaining adhesives.  Which is the more suitable one for
<fitting front wheelbearing races to a stub axle ?

  Adhesive on wheel bearings??

  LLoyd         -everybody knows you nail 'em on....  -

------------------------------

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 17:45:32 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: What's That Noise? (XJ-S)

> When I make a left turn in my 1983 XJ-S and accelerate out of the turn, I
> get a knock-knock-knock sound from the vicinity of the left (inside) rear
> wheel.  There does not seem to be a similar effect when turning right.

Speaking of noises, I don't know what your problem is, but I have a problem
also on hard turns and accelerating, but I think it is the prop-shaft
coming out of the transmission touching the middle mount.
The spring and bushings are changed and it's less obvious, but still there.
The guy where I had the car in for repair told me that Jaguar had added
some additional spacers a few years ago to correct this, but on several
cars the problem still exists. Since yours is from the back and you have
a manual, it surely is different. If anyone is interested where exactly to
put the shims for the problem, let me know and I give you more details.

[The advantage of a very noisy fianl drive was that I ignorred those minor
 noises completely :-) }

Have a nice week-end !

- - Matthias

------------------------------

From: Jag-Boy <bryan@eagpde.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 96 16:42:12 +0100
Subject: Re: A/C gremlins [XJ-S] 

In message <3180A100.72C0@BankersTrust.com> you wrote: 

> Me too, my car is an '86 XJ-S V12 RHD UK car, a few days 
> after I bought it last year the A/C stopped working (the fuse in 
> the left hand console "cheek" blew). The effect was exactly as 
> described (it was August so I had the windows open when the A/C 
> stopped working) left leg get warm, ash tray heat up to the 
> point where you don;t really want to touch them.
> 
> My guess at the time was there is some A/C plumbing that runs 
> down through the transmission tunnel and that was warming up 
> when the A/C wasn't on, but as you say, it only happens with the 
> windows open.
> 
> So if your cat is possessed then so is mine.....
> 
> Regards
> Paul

Thanks for the reply Paul.
Did you spot Kirby's response.
At first I thought this seemed the most plausible, and in fact
I will still be looking at this at the weekend
(weather / girlfriend / hangover permitting :), but does it seem
more than coincidence that your's does/did it in exactly the same
place.

When you say the effect was the same, was this only while the
A/C was broken, or does it still happen?

All my vents seem to be blowing OK, so I'm dubious about
searching for a dodgy fuse...

Jag-Boy
< bb@eagpde.co.uk >

------------------------------

From: mark@stoner.wsmr.nasa.gov
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 03:00:57 -0600
Subject: Introduction

Hello, I have been receiving the list for over a year now
and have finally got around to an introduction. I currently have
two jags, both XJS. 

The '87 has over 100k miles now and is still going strong with a perfect
running original engine.  The work that I have done on the vehicle since
I bought it two years ago (15k miles) is as follows:
1.  General tune-up - All new hoses, belts, ignition wires, plugs, etc.
2.  RHS AC Blower quit due to a bad relay within the unit.
3.  Rebuit the TH400 transmission (would not upshift). It turned out to
    be a leaky kickdown solenoid (US$ 9.00), but I did a complete rebuild
    ($250.00 in parts) before finding this out.
4.  Replaced the radiator after the plastic fan went through it.
    (I don't recommend locking up the clutch on the fan)  Converted
    over to dual electric fans 14" and 16" which give much more CFM
    than stock. Also replaced 190 F thermostats with 180 F.  Now with
    both fans on the temperature will never get higher than the 'N'.
    (The temperature here gets over 100 F and I have a five mile long
    8% climb over the mountains to work.)

Now all I need to find a reasonable priced source for a LH window lift motor
and a speed transducer (pulse generator).

87' XJS Daily
86' XJS (for sale) 57K miles
M151 jeep
**************************************************************************
*  Mark Stoner               Phone: (505) 679-9745 FAX: (505) 679-9753   *
*  Telemetry Engineer                WWW:   http://www-psl.wsmr.nasa.gov *
*  Physical Sci. Lab. / NMSU         E-Mail:  mark@stoner.wsmr.nasa.gov  *
**************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: Paul Peard <Paul.Peard@BankersTrust.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 17:02:59 +0100
Subject: [Fwd: Re: Delanair [XJ-S]]

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Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 10:44:05 -0400
Message-ID: <960426104405_100930754@emout08.mail.aol.com>
To: Paul.Peard@bankerstrust.com
Subject: Re: Delanair [XJ-S]
X-Mozilla-Status: 0011

>RE: Delanair air conditioning/ heater system problems in an '87 XJS.
>Paul Peard asked "what were the symptoms prompting the removal of the AC
unit from the car?"

Paul, thanks for your reply.
The symptoms were coolant leaks (misting on the wind shield) and strange
noises.  Occasionally the system would make periodic thumping sounds.  The
sounds came from the right hand side of the centre console and sounded like a
servo motor was awry - as if it was trying to go beyond its travel range and
causing a plastic gear mechanism to skip a tooth.
Also, with the heater on, some vent outlets would heat properly while others
would allow cold air to enter.  I'm not sure if the cold air was coming from
the system or some other fresh air vent under the dash (are there any other
vents?).
The Delanair unit is much different to the one described in Kirby's drawings.
 It has no external flap linkages.  I think all the flaps are moved by servo
motors located at each of the flaps.

Thanks for comments and advice

Julian Mullaney 

- --------------2777D72DDF--

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 09:23:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Brakes

  Now I'm confused, or maybe there is two good ways to do it. ? !

<>The manual mentions a special tool to compress the pistons back into the
<>bores in order to have enough clearance for the new pads. Anyone know what
<>this tool is and how it is used? Is it merely a lever type gadget.
<
<Big pair of channel-locks usually works for me!

   I was under the impression (maybe wrong) that the tool looks like a
chisle of some kind where you hammer on it when it is inserted. Have I been
led astray?
  LLoyd  -    Press <ctrl-<alt-<del  to continue

------------------------------

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #64
*******************************

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jag-lovers-digest         Saturday, 27 April 1996      Volume 02 : Number 065

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Paul Peard <Paul.Peard@BankersTrust.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 17:23:24 +0100
Subject: Re: Delanair [XJ-S]

Julian,

I may be off the wall here, I am not actually sure which system my car has but I am pretty sure I've 
got flaps and linkages, but, here goes...

First of all, the misting may not have been leaky coolant, quick check, rub some off with you finger 
and taste it, apparently, if its sweet, its coolant, my car misted bad but it was plain water, turned 
out to be the condensation drains blocked causing a pint of so of water to lay around inside the a/c 
unit.

Secondly, no fresh air vents, and the centre console ones only ever pump refrigerated air, if the 
system is in heating mode you don't get anything through the centre vents.

In general (and this is a gross over simplification), there is a temp. switch, and an in car temp 
sensor (in the dash just above the glove box lock), it works out if the car is hot or cold, in place 
can be made to think the car is V. hot by holding the (heated) cigar lighter near it, should go balls 
out a/c mode. Local Jag man says, pull it pull the wires (open circuit), should get full a/c, so I 
guess short it and you get full heat.

Assuming ambient temp is above 65 and the car is warmed up, you should be able to hear things whir 
when you move the temp switch end to end, if it doesn't do anything then it may be a busted/rusted 
wire or the switch or the a/c amp has gone to its maker, I know a man who makes a replacement amp for 
approx. 1/4 price of a new one.

The fact you are actually getting both hot and cold air rules out the other three things that were 
wrong with mine, blocked heater core - it stayed cold, another occasion, too hot, hidden fuse in left 
hand (RHD car) console cheek blown meaning the comressor clutch didn't operate, and Kirby's favourite, 
the vacuum valve was busted (I got given a nearly new one by my local Jag man who took pity when I 
turned up in mid november waering a hat and gloves whilst driving - remember, all the air is 
refrigerated, then re-heated, so not only was it nearly 0 outside the car was chilling the rest of the 
heat out and putting it into the car.)

Hope that not all of the above is complete non/applicable rubbish <g>

Regards
Paul

------------------------------

From: Jag-Boy <bryan@eagpde.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 96 16:42:12 +0100
Subject: Re: A/C gremlins [XJ-S] 

In message <3180A100.72C0@BankersTrust.com> you wrote: 

> Me too, my car is an '86 XJ-S V12 RHD UK car, a few days 
> after I bought it last year the A/C stopped working (the fuse in 
> the left hand console "cheek" blew). The effect was exactly as 
> described (it was August so I had the windows open when the A/C 
> stopped working) left leg get warm, ash tray heat up to the 
> point where you don;t really want to touch them.
> 
> My guess at the time was there is some A/C plumbing that runs 
> down through the transmission tunnel and that was warming up 
> when the A/C wasn't on, but as you say, it only happens with the 
> windows open.
> 
> So if your cat is possessed then so is mine.....
> 
> Regards
> Paul

Thanks for the reply Paul.
Did you spot Kirby's response.
At first I thought this seemed the most plausible, and in fact
I will still be looking at this at the weekend
(weather / girlfriend / hangover permitting :), but does it seem
more than coincidence that your's does/did it in exactly the same
place.

When you say the effect was the same, was this only while the
A/C was broken, or does it still happen?

All my vents seem to be blowing OK, so I'm dubious about
searching for a dodgy fuse...

Jag-Boy
< bb@eagpde.co.uk >

------------------------------

From: "Scott W. Phillips" <phillips@mn.uswest.net>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 11:50:08 -0500
Subject: My two cents

I don't know about anyone else, but I see way too much of the redesigned
Ford Taurus in the new Jag.  Except for the front opening, the lights, side
lines and especially from the rear it looks too much like the Taurus for me.

And at least here in the States it isn't selling worth sh...

------------------------------

From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 19:11:38 +0000
Subject: [JagWeb] mini.update 26th april

Just a note to let everyone know the guestbook is up to
date again, sure does come a lot of entries!

Also, the archive is current up to the 23. April, and
there are a few more links on the links-page.

Have a nice weekend!

Nick
- -- 
<<<  Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC  >>>     
<<<       Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto        >>> 
>>> The JagWeb  http://www.sn.no/~nick/jaguar.html <<<

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 13:56:22 -0400
Subject: Re: HE for a Series 1 XJ12?

>>So, if I am looking at about $200 anyway, I thought I would check into
>>getting a HE ignition system. Does anyone know if it is feasible to
>>retrofit a HE system to this engine? Any idea of cost? Could I expect
>>an increase in hp and/or economy?

I would like to point out that HE might refer to the "High Efficiency"
Jaguar V-12 engine of 1981-on, but it also might refer to a generic high
energy ignition -- commonly referred to as HEI, I think.  I would presume
Mr. Covert doesn't really care, he just wants to know his options!

The advance curves (centrifugal and vacuum) for the H.E. engine are
radically different than those for the pre-H.E.  Therefore, I would not
recommend trying to retrofit a distributor from an '81 or newer engine.

If you wanna fit an aftermarket system, no problem -- but you'll probably
have to get a new distributor anyway, since most aftermarket systems still
rely on the original mechanical advance mechanisms.

There are complete ignition systems that eliminate the distributor entirely
and have programmable advance curves, but they ain't cheap.

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 13:59:51 -0400
Subject: Re: knock,knock

Kirby, 
I had a problem like yours (sort of, but not quite) with the knocking.
The PO had hit a rock or something which had deformed the metal safety strap
at the front end of one of the rear trailing arms.  This caused the trailing
arm to scrape the safety strap under heavy acceleration due to the amount of
flexing in the big rubber bushing at the front of the arm.  
I solved the problem by simply shoving a BFscrewdriver in the gap and bending
the strap back to original shape. 

Julian Mullaney 
'87 XJS

------------------------------

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 13:17:15 -0500
Subject: Speeding in an XJ40

> Since the cities are 1000km apart, they have
>removed all reason to speed over long distances.

What does this mean?

Thats one hell of alot of uninturupted pavement.  Seems to me it would
encourage speeding since your next stop at 100km/h is 10 hours away!

Where is a toll road 600 miles long?

I hope there are gas stations along the route!

My wife hopes there are toilets along the route.

Is that 1000km  a straight road or winding?

I wonder how long that XJ40 could stand 200kph?

Maybe 2.5 hours then a 5 hour rest stop and then another 2.5 hours at
200kph.  Sounds just as boring at 10 hours at 100kph but far more damaging
to the car and also possibly to the occupants.

                                                    Jim

===================================================
 " Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"         

 John Wayne    

P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
===================================================          

------------------------------

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 13:17:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Brakes and MOT tests

>P-driver is also expected to stay under 80 km/h, which is no way to gain 
>experience, and keep his blood alcohol level under 0.2%, which should apply to 
>all of us.

Jeez, I hope this is a misprint,  In the US  0.1%  is considered legaly
drunk!  At 0.25% you are on the verge of death (unless you are an alcoholic
and have built up a tollerance).  And 0.3% is rarely seen unless the victim
is dead.

Austrailia must be a real party place!!!

>psychotechnic test, sorting out complete morons, homicidal maniacs and people 
>constitutionally incapable of judging speed and distance.

Also a psychological test to determine if the driver cannot understand that
just because he wants to break the law he has no right to bully those who
are law abiding.  That might get some of the "Bubbas" in pick up trucks that
sit on your bumper at 75 MPH with high beams lit off the highway.

                                                    Jim

===================================================
 " Put on your helmet, get into your trench, and shut up!!"         

 John Wayne    

P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.
===================================================          

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 14:48:08 -0400
Subject: Old Engines

If you have an engine with a lot of miles on it but is otherwise operating
perfectly, what kind of horsepower reduction can you expect compared to a
new engine?  And what are the typical causes of these reductions?

Just about the only thing I can think of is additional leakage past the
piston rings (again, assuming worn but not jammed or broken).  Would this
cause a large percentage loss in horsepower?

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: lwalden@ebmud.com (Lee Walden)
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 11:59:36 -0700
Subject: Re: XK8 = Mustang

Recent Threads on the XK-8 include...

>I have it on good authority, the mechanic who cares for my 3 Jags,  that the
>new XK8 is really a Ford Mustang with some different cosmetics.

>To start with it has the Mustang V8 engine, etc, etc. 

and

> He claims his father is a stockholder in Ford and in their current annual
> report the subject is approached.

And the stuff Terry says...
>

Unfortunately I didn't save it Terry, sorry...

Now for the rest of the story...

The Mustang is a 4.6 liter 2 valve head, cast-iron block engine.  Over 250
parts in the Mustang engine are different from the 4.6 Liter Ford truck
engine, eventhough they "look the same". 

The engine in the XK-8 is a 4.0 Liter 4-valve all aluminmum job.  It is
"loosely" based on the new Ford Lincoln Mark VIII V-8.  When you get a
chance to actually "see" the engine in all it's glory, it will look like the
engine in the new Mark VIII.

The car is "based on" the XJS floor pan, but doesn't use it.  It is smaller
than the XJS.

It's also fun to drive.  My "source" has both driven it, and "worked" on the
engine.  Lee 

------------------------------

From: lwalden@ebmud.com (Lee Walden)
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 12:08:47 -0700
Subject: Re: My two cents

At 11:50 1996/04/26 -0500, Scott W. Phillips wrote:
>I don't know about anyone else, but I see way too much of the redesigned
>Ford Taurus in the new Jag.  Except for the front opening, the lights, side
>lines and especially from the rear it looks too much like the Taurus for me.
>
>And at least here in the States it isn't selling worth sh...
>
Is it just me, or has Ford gone on an ellispse binge.  The windows and dash
control openings on the Taurus/Sable and the general "look" of the car is
"odd".  The new XK-8 looks like the styling was "borrowed" from the same
designer.  It has a very "Mazda" look to it.  BTW The Taurus and Sable are
"Mazda" designs.  Kinda looks like a cross between the Ford Probe and the
new GM Aurora.  Lee

------------------------------

From: lwalden@ebmud.com (Lee Walden)
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 12:11:23 -0700
Subject: Wheel clunk

Ref: The note on turning and hearing a clunk-clunk-clunk for the wheel area
on acceleration...

Sounds like either a wheel bearing is gone, or a bad universal joint.  Lee

------------------------------

From: "Lauren E. Pratt" <pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 96 11:21:33 PDT
Subject: RE: Bearing retainer adhesive 

If your bearing races are worn/warped/bent enough that
you need something to hold them in, it may be time for
new parts. The races should be press interference fit,
but if you must use Locktite, use no. 640 Sleeve Retainer
as it is made for just such a problem. Note that there
must be some clearance or the Locktite will be scraped off
when the race is installed.

Cheers  Lauren
- -------------------------------------
Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 4/26/96
Time: 11:21:33 AM

This message was sent by Chameleon 
- -------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "<        >" <73131.3076@compuserve.com>
Date: 26 Apr 96 16:04:07 EDT
Subject: Re: Hypoid Oil

>>Now synthetic oil is also supposed to have superior adhesion
>>properties on metal  surfaces. Hence the advertisements showing
>>engines with the oil drained out. But the  question is whether
>>synthetic oil gets squished out from between the gears under 
>>pressure more or less than hypoid oil. I don't know the answer
>>to that one, but I'd  like to!

>>Cheers, Patrick.

>>'65 Series I 4.2 E-Type FHC

Patrick and all,

Since making my original post, and after getting your input, I called Amsoil and
they said that their synthetic gear lube would certainly be appropriate for
applications requiring a hypoid oil.  

Thanks much for you help!

Best regards,
Jim Beckmeyer    Union CIty, MI USA
e-mail: 73131.3076@compuserve.com
90 Jaguar XJ-40-Sovereign
60 Jaguar MK II

According to Amsoil and Mobil, their synthetic gear lube is fullly compatable
with applicatons requiring a Hypoid oil.

------------------------------

From: David J Shield <David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 96 14:06:00 PDT
Subject: XJ6 SI

Mario wrote:

>Dear Sir/Madam;
>          I am in dire need of your assistance. I own a 1972 2.8
>XJ6 that I need to modify for better perfomance. I plan to turbocharge
>it. I also want to put some form of TUNABLE Fuel Injection system on 
>it, and the Lucas system fit the bill.

Mario,

How about transplanting a 4.2L in, instead?

Best regards,

David

------------------------------

From: Larry Lee <leelarr@mail.auburn.edu>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 16:21:23 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Brakes and MOT tests

On 26 Apr 1996, Jan Wikstroem wrote:

> Jim Isbell wrote (snip):
>  >It would make more sense to test the driving skills of the
> >drivers.  It is stupid drivers or at least stupid responses to situations
> >which cause 99.9% of all accidents.
> 
> Amen, brother.
> In my not so humble opinion, driver training should be approached in the same 
> way as any other vocational training, with a set curriculum. For example, back 
> in 1958, when I took my car licence in Sweden, it was compulsory to do a 
> two-hour drive on a motorway, at night, near the speed limit and overtaking at 
> least twice. The instruction I had on that drive has probably saved my life 
> several times.

Isn't it amazing that, for the vehicle with far and away the greatest 
number of people(?) licensed to operate it, those potential auto 
driver licensees are rarely (ever?) required to demonstrate emergency 
procedures during the licensing exam?  License exams for aircraft pilots, 
locomotive enginemen, marine officers, and even stationary power plant 
operators stress emergency response.  After all, that's when you really 
screw the pooch...quickly.  How many of you have ever even been on a 
skid pad, for instance?  Every driver needs that experience.

Yeah, I know, it costs money and time while being of no re-election benefit.

Of course we also have the logic of the double- and triple-bottom truck 
drivers who say, "We never have any problems with 'em, except in 
emergencies," in defense of those monstrosities. 

Larry Lee

------------------------------

From: Larry Lee <leelarr@mail.auburn.edu>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 16:42:45 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: My two cents

On Fri, 26 Apr 1996, Lee Walden wrote:

> The new XK-8 looks like the styling was "borrowed" from the same
> designer.  It has a very "Mazda" look to it.  BTW The Taurus and Sable are
> "Mazda" designs.  Kinda looks like a cross between the Ford Probe and the
> new GM Aurora.

I agree on the Probe-Aurora marriage--the worst of both worlds IMHO.  As 
far as the Mazda look is concerned, I'm not so sure.  To me the Mazda 626 
looks a lot like the small Jag Sir William might build nowadays if he could, 
and the 929 looks fairly similar.  My Miata reminds me of a '60s Lotus 
Elan, in both style and handling, which is why I bought it in the first 
place!  I say, old chap, there are far worse credentials.

Larry Lee

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 18:04:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Old Engines

>Another, probably larger loss is a worn cam. As the cam wears the lift on both
>the exaust and the intake drops, which (as you well know reduces horsepower).

I know worn cam lobes would kill power, I just didn't know they wore
significantly!  They are hardened steel, I would expect that if they started
wearing at all, they would gall and really get boogered up.  I had one do
that once, on a Volvo; I understand Volvos of the early 70's had cam
hardness problems.  But it wore just one lobe, not the whole bunch.

How do I measure the cam lobe wear?

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 18:04:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Hypoid Oil

>Since making my original post, and after getting your input, I called
Amsoil and
>they said that their synthetic gear lube would certainly be appropriate for
>applications requiring a hypoid oil.  
>
>According to Amsoil and Mobil, their synthetic gear lube is fullly compatable
>with applicatons requiring a Hypoid oil.

I have no doubt that both Amsoil and Mobil will happily make such claims,
and have in fact gotten the same info from an Amsoil dealer myself.
However, I would still be looking at Red Line products.  Red Line MTL
(Manual Transmission Lubricant) is a synthetic oil developed especially for
manual transmissions, IMHO a significant improvement over using a synthetic
developed for engines.  I'm sure they have similar products for other gear
applications.

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 18:04:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Wheel clunk

>Ref: The note on turning and hearing a clunk-clunk-clunk for the wheel area
>on acceleration...
>
>Sounds like either a wheel bearing is gone, or a bad universal joint.  Lee

Why would it only happen on left hand turns?  There is no sound on straight
acceleration or right hand turns.

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 18:04:45 -0400
Subject: RE: Bearing retainer adhesive 

>If your bearing races are worn/warped/bent enough that
>you need something to hold them in, it may be time for
>new parts. The races should be press interference fit...

As mentioned in my booklet on the XJ-S and confirmed by my own experience,
the bearings on a Jaguar stub axle are a loose slip fit.  I replaced the
stub axle due to wear at the bottom (from the race turning), and used new
bearings.  Loose.  You gotta use Loctite or something, or they'll just turn
and wear a groove in the new stub axle.

>but if you must use Locktite, use no. 640 Sleeve Retainer
>as it is made for just such a problem.

That's what I used.  But, I haven't had it apart since, so I dunno if it's
working.

> Note that there
>must be some clearance or the Locktite will be scraped off
>when the race is installed.

Doesn't appear to be a problem.  The inner race of the inner bearing has a
radius on its inner edge, while the stub axle fitting in the tapered hole of
the upright forms a corner with no radius.  So, there is a little pocket
formed between the two.  If Loctite is applied and the bearing slid into
place, the Loctite will tend to get pushed into this space, and will
probably serve its purpose just fine there.

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: danlb@nando.net (Daniel  Bowdoin)
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 96 20:04:51 EDT
Subject: Re: My two cents

>Is it just me, or has Ford gone on an ellispse binge.  The windows and dash
>control openings on the Taurus/Sable and the general "look" of the car is
>"odd".  The new XK-8 looks like the styling was "borrowed" from the same
>designer.  It has a very "Mazda" look to it.  BTW The Taurus and Sable are
>"Mazda" designs.  Kinda looks like a cross between the Ford Probe and the
>new GM Aurora.  Lee

No, it isn't just you. I think I remember reading somewhere that the
"inspiration" for all the ellipses was the elliptical shape of the Ford
logo. Carried the idea a bit too far, IMHO.

Dan Bowdoin

------------------------------

From: blackmx5@usa.pipeline.com (Lawrence Karpman)
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 21:18:03 -0400
Subject: I need help fast!!!!

Two weeks after replacing my '85 SIII master cylinder due to brake failure,
today I am getting a loud SKWOOSH, SKWOOSH, every time I press the brake
pedal. it is eminating from somewhere near the pedal. Sounds like a
bellows. Brakes work fine though. 

I have to drive it tomorrow, so I need help fast, and can't find my
workshop manual since our move recently. 

Any help greatly appreciated. 

PLEASE E-MAIL DIRECTLY TO ME, and cc the list! 

Larry Karpman 
bedford, TX

------------------------------

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jag-lovers-digest          Sunday, 28 April 1996       Volume 02 : Number 066

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: BMack7316@aol.com
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 21:39:02 -0400
Subject: Re: Re: Jerky Stick??

Dude:

Ouch, I'm wounded. (grin)  "Which pedal is the clutch, pa?"  

I criss-cross the District of Columbia to make my living -- perpetual rush
hour!  During daylight, downtown D.C. traffic resembles New York.  Ever
submerge a client with his or her very own cup of coffee before?  Believe me,
once is all it takes to realize that maybe an automatic would have been a
more appropriate purchase.  It wasn't very funny at the time, but it is now;
I'll craft an email soon with the gorey details so the list can have a
chuckle or two...

Also, I look at it from this angle:  I use a car phone extensively, check
voicemail, drink coffee, smoke, get paged, fool with my stereo, eat, fool
with my Jag E-gizmos, dig through my briefcase, read stuff, navigate with
someone's screwed up directions to some unknown place, bla bla bla.    I ONLY
HAVE TWO HANDS.  Even if shifting were " voice activated", I probably still
couldn't use it as a daily driver. 

On a serious side, I agree with you about a manual XK-8. 15% is 15%.  And while we're at it, my SIII serves me excellently during the week, but I sure wish my weekend toy (85 XJS) was manual. :-) IMHO, Jaguar is testing the market in year one, which is very prudent.  If the XK-8 takes off, you can bet a manual option is already on the beancounter's whiteboards.  Brad Mack 85 SIII 85 XJS 92 JUV "There he goes...rearranging the deck chairs on the Titanic!"   __________________________________________________ From: ajbeale@squirrel.com.au (A.J. Beale) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 12:02:14 -0700 Subject: Assistance Many thanks to members mailing assistance in becoming a subscriber, now  successfully accomplished.  Am comparatively new to Internet and email, so  was impressed with the very rapid response.  Did not previously understand  concept of sending email with commands, presumably for automatic processing.  No problems in understanding messages, but only connected to Internet for  short periods each day to keep telephone line open.  My current car is an  88/89 XJ40 Sovereign and previous car was 83/84 XJ6.  Regards. Alan.       From: blackmx5@usa.pipeline.com (Lawrence Karpman) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 22:27:17 -0400 Subject: Re: I need help fast! Found my workshop manual, and obviously the SQWOOSH sound is coming from the vacumn servo unit. Book says braking is not affected, but higher pedal pressures are required.  Anyone else encounterd this problem? Possible causes? Fixes, etc.?  Larry Karpman  Bedford, TX From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com Date: Fri, 26 Apr 96 19:57:26 PDT Subject: XK8 Criticisms I don't know about anyone else, but I see way too much of the redesigned Ford Taurus in the new Jag.  Except for the front opening, the lights, side lines and especially from the rear it looks too much like the Taurus for me. And at least here in the States it isn't selling worth sh... Is it just me, or has Ford gone on an ellispse binge.   I agree with the comments above. In fact, the criticisms concerning the styling are coming in. There's an article in the latest issue of one of  the major British magazines (I think it is "CAR" Magazine) that talks  about the criticisms.  Some car designers don't regard the XK8 styling  highly, citing that it does not break any new ground, and saying that the  rear end is "too Japanese-like". One Italian designer went as far as saying it is not one of the better designs. My personal opinion is that, the more I look at it, the less I like it. Somehow it doesn't look very British. CAR Magazine reveals the car's interior. Although there's tons of wood and leather, the design looks more American than British. Looks like the Ford influence is becoming poinsonous! P.S. I can't stand the new Taurus. How such a horrible design can get  approved is beyond me. Roger Peng                                     (408)765-7863 Intel Corporation Design Technology, Physical CAD From: Juliansean@aol.com Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 22:59:45 -0400 Subject: Re: Delanair Please ignore this message unless you are interested in Delanair AC systems in an XJS. I finally got the heater matrix out of my AC unit without taking the entire thing out.   Removal is very easy.   With the steering column lowered, the heater core slides out sideways quite easily.  Mind you, I had the dash completely out. The problem was a leaky heater core, and leaks where the water pipes attach to it.   There was a problem of dissimilar metals causing corrosion of the bolts which attach the pipes to the brass core.  Also, the �O� ring seal used at the connection point appear to be of a terrible design.  A mechanic once told me that these O rings always go first.   This coolant leak had caused several multi-pin connectors to corrode, and had caused extensive corrosion of the circuit board mounted on the left side of the unit (presumably this is the amplifier I have heard of on the list earlier).   There are at least two little servo motors which operate the flaps, each with its own enclosed gear reduction mechanism.  These have no linkage rods, and are screwed to the plastic chassis of the unit.  What had happened in my case was the malfunctioning controller (corroded PC board) had caused the servo motor to go beyond the limit of travel, breaking one of the plastic gear teeth.   It is an absolute bitch to get at all this stuff even with the entire dash removed.   BTW, Kirby have you considered putting photographs (digitized) in your book, or in a book supplement ? If so, I will take some photos of my dissasembled mess if you think it would be usefull. Regards,  Julian Mullaney   From: William Kroppe <kroppe@mich.com> Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 23:40:55 -0400 Subject: Re: XK8 = Mustang Lee writes: The engine in the XK-8 is a 4.0 Liter 4-valve all aluminmum job.  It is "loosely" based on the new Ford Lincoln Mark VIII V-8.  When you get a chance to actually "see" the engine in all it's glory, it will look like the engine in the new Mark VIII. Guys, please believe me when I tell you the new XK8 engine is not based on the Romeo 4.6L V8.  I put my hands on both of these engines every day. The engine will not, does not, look like the engine in the Mark VIII.  It is an entirely ground up development job by Jaguar at Whitley.  The engine is produced, however, at a Ford engine plant in the UK. From: Tom Golodik <tgolodik@cybernex.net> Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 01:18:41 -0400 Subject: Re: Compressing Brake Calipers I was under the impression (maybe wrong) that the tool looks like a chisle of some kind where you hammer on it when it is inserted. Have I  been led astray? LLoyd  -     Best tool I've used for pressing in caliper pistons is the fork tool for  removing ball joints.  (Its also listed among the ten best tools of all  time in some Britmag list, along with duct tape, a large rock and seven  other essential items for the tool box which I don't remember at the  moment.) Its not as likely to break as the heavy duty screwdrivers I had  used in the past and is much more controllable.  The fork end of the  tool is usually tapered sharply and wide enough to cover both sides of  the piston.  Usually all I have to do is insert it between the caliper  and piston and just rock it back and forth a couple of times.  For the  really stubborn pistons (the kind the TR3 always seemed to have) the  tool is hefty enough to stand up to some cuss words and a few good sharp  whacks from the heavy ball peen. That's usually enough to loosen up any  piston.  Its also good for driving nails, an engine stethescope (don't  put your ear to the sharp end!), and is an emergency hydraulic jack  handle.  I haven't used it for removing ball joints, tho. Tom Golodik From: prebbech@ozemail.com.au (Peter Rebbechi) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 15:36:07 +1000 (EST) Subject: XJ40 ABS I also have been having wierd problems with the ABS on my 88 XJ40.  The warning light comes on at strange intervals, and often does not go out.  I have been reading the threads, and after replacing all the valve modules, decided to replace the overvoltage relay.  As has been said by others... VOILA!. Instant fix. Why do we read about the $100 fix after we have paid for the $1000 fix!. Just proves the value of the list. Yeah, I'm a salesman, but trust me. From: prebbech@ozemail.com.au (Peter Rebbechi) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 16:19:15 +1000 (EST) Subject: Speeding in an XJ40 Well,  I suppose I got what I deserved when I was succinct in my email. The road in question is between Sydney and Melbourne.  It is of highway standard, and at least 2 lanes wide in each direction all the way.  grades are of freeway standard, with associated large radius curves.  There are gas stations, McDonalds, Hungry Jacks, Towns, Motels, rest stops, etc approx every 50-100 km's, but rarely not all in one place.  These are all located off service roads, and if you had enough capacity, you could indeed drive the whole way without leaving the highway.  The camera gantries are located approx 300km apart, ensuring that a burst of 200kph for a half hour or so necessitates a stop for a coffee, comfort station etc to reduce the average speed.  The longest period I have driven at this speed is a half hour. Suffice to say that there are also highway patrol type police located where you may not expect, just in case you feel like breaking the law.  The rules are simple.  over the speedlimit by less than 15kph = $105 fine, and 1 demerit point. Over the speedlimit by less than 30kph, but more than 15kph = $165 fine and 3 demerit points. Exceeding the limit by over 30 kph means no licence for 3 months.  By how much decides how soon they will let you have it back.  12 demerit points in ANY 3 yr period also means no licence for 3 months. BTW, the alcohol limit was incorrect, it is 0.0% for Probationary licences, and 0.05% for full licence holders. 2 years without a licence is the penalty for exceeding this!.   If you drive carefully, you can still indulge yourself occasionally.  I drove for 2 1/2 yrs with one point left on my licence.  It is now clear!. Yeah, I'm a salesman, but trust me. From: Michael Neal <mneal@wco.com> Date: Wed, 24 Apr 1996 23:31:22 -0700 Subject: Re: XJ40 ABS Peter Rebbechi wrote:
> 
> I also have been having wierd problems with the ABS on my 88 XJ40.  The
> warning light comes on at strange intervals, and often does not go out.  I
> have been reading the threads, and after replacing all the valve modules,
> decided to replace the overvoltage relay.  As has been said by others...
> VOILA!. Instant fix.
> Why do we read about the $100 fix after we have paid for the $1000 fix!.

   Very simple, you just haven't taken your car to a decent jag 
mechanic.  Enough said.

> 
> Just proves the value of the list.
> 
> Yeah, I'm a salesman, but trust me.

------------------------------

From: Stefan Schulz <jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 10:32:04 GMT
Subject: Re: Bearing retainer adhesive

 Lloyd writes:
>   Adhesive on wheel bearings??
>
>   LLoyd         -everybody knows you nail 'em on....  -

Nope.  Nailing is what you do with the pedal on the right, provided the
engine is warm and the driver of the German abomination in the other
lane is asking for it...

Regards,
- --
Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk

------------------------------

From: Don Tracey <dont@echuca.net.au>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 10:01:42 +1100
Subject: Re: XK150

John Elmgreen wrote:
> 
> Dear Don,  Thanks for your note.  You should get a full list of CCs with this
> message.  You are on my list now.  The idea is you copy all with any queries or
> answers.  I was very interested to hear about your 150 roadster as it was not on
> my Aussie list before - what is the car's history?  Presumably it came in from
> the USA in the last 5-10 years?  What State?  Any previous owners known?  What
> is the engine number?  There are only a few 150 owners in this group but we
> should be able to help with your queries.  My own 150 lives in a garage down the
> road, so I cannot always get out to it to do measuring up etc straight away.
> Let us have your questions anyway.  Who owns the 140 DHC?  What is its history?
> I would be interested to know.  By the way, Ii think you are only the 2nd Aussie
> in this group - glad of the company!  Regards,  John Elmgreen

Dear John, The 150 is indeed an American import, from Ca.The only and I presume last 
registration is for a Merle Stearns in Ceres Ca,imported in 1989. LHD.The original 
engine no is V3783-8.However the car has been modified to 3,8 s specs ,also has a 
factory c/r gbox.The car is in what I would call fair condition,with the usual rust in 
the shut panel boxing behind and above the rear m/guards/fenders.The rust was hidden 
with tin and body sealer I don't know if it was badly done by experts or well done by 
what we call here bush mechanics.The car hadn't been used since it arrived in AUS, here 
only stored,I only brought it last year.Restoring the car to be driven not as a show 
car.Missing some pieces front bumper and mountings,bonnet/hood chrome strip,chrome cover 
strip off ln door .I intend to make a front bumper from a mk2 centre section and a mk7-8 
outer,the long strip somebody told me was off a mk7 but the one I have off a k7 is 
triangular in section,from the photos it look like a 1/2 round form, any ideas? Also how 
does one remove the rear hubs off the axle any easy way? I also own a a mk2,mk5,and a 64 
eh Holden(like a small chev)the holden is the only one going at the moment.I intend to 
join AA(Autos Anonymous)soon as I resign from the procrastinators club.Back to my friend 
Charlie xk140 I hit the wrong key (Well they are side by side,thats my excuse)its a fhc 
not a dhc.I will get details and forward the as soon as possible. Hope this posting is 
not too long and boring as I am fairly new to the net.  Regards Don Tracey-Australia
P.s. Can somebody please explain how to put the cc in the address list, Thanks

------------------------------

From: TezFair@aol.com
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 09:28:54 -0400
Subject: Re: XK8 Criticisms answered

There has been a lot of talk about how the car compares to this, that and the
other but most cars now all have similiar features. The current trend in the
UK is for curly cars, You could argue that Rover 400 looks the same as a
Vauxhall Astra as they both have a rounded back. The same can be said of the
XK8, if you want to see a Mazda in it then you will see Mazda styling. Its
down to your own view. Ford had no input in the styling of the car.

As for the debate about the V8 engine, a TV motoring programme here quoted
the engine as being developed from another Ford car, Upon hearing this Nick
Scheele was annoyed and wrote a letter to the editor of the programme
informing him that this was not the case, that this engine was designed by
our own engineers - not Ford's.

I asked about a manual option, the reply was that its not totally dismissed
at the moment, its just that they can't afford the development costs on
designing a new floorpan although when the supercharged version comes out in
a few years time its likely to have the option then.

Terry Fairbrother
http://members.aol.com/tezfair/jag.html

------------------------------

From: Iain McShane <shadie@hkabc.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 22:26:57 +0800
Subject: XJ40 Cutting-out

Posted this question last week but no responce.
I have been working on my 1986 XJ 3.6l, trying to solve the cutting out  problems.
Happens when the car is driving, at 90 deg the engine dies, very much like fuel
starvation.
If I play with the throttle the engine will pick up.
I have checked the ign system whick is ok.
Checked the fuel pressure stationary which is within spec.
The fuel pump makes labouring noises when the fault occurs but I do not know where or
how to check the feed to the fuel pump relay as this car has "LH" type fuel injection.
Any feedback appreciated.
Iain.

------------------------------

From: Tom Golodik <tgolodik@cybernex.net>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 12:04:44 -0400
Subject: XK8 Reaction

Just saw the layout in Road & Track on the new XK8.  I like the look of 
the car, both coupe and convertible, altho I haven't seen it in the 
metal yet.  To my eye, there's some real heritage in the lines although 
it wasn't until I read the story that I realized what was nagging me 
about the look.  With its V8, the length of the car from front bumper to 
edge of windshield is much shorter than in previous Jags, giving it a 
somewhat foreshortened look for a Jag.  It doesn't have that "from here 
to forever" look that the E and 120 had as a result of their long hoods. 
It has, however, a much more satisfying look that the XJ-S, which I 
didn't like at all when I first saw it, although it has grown on me.  
(I'm still not crazy about the later models, esp. the new ones, though 
the early ones with the flying buttresses look much better to me now.)  
Perhaps the XK8 is not so radically different from other cars on the 
road, like the E-type seemed to be at the time, and I'm sure the car is 
derivative in many ways (ie the new Aston, also a handsome car).  But 
overall, thumbs up from me.  I only hope the XK-8 continues the previous 
Jaguar tradition of rapid depreciation so I can afford one in the first 
quarter of the next millenium.

------------------------------

From: Michael Neal <mneal@wco.com>
Date: Thu, 25 Apr 1996 11:06:00 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ40 Cutting-out

Ideally you need to check fuel pressure while driving the car.  
Seeing that the the car cuts out at 90 deg I would recommend replacing 
the temp sensor for the fuel injection.  These are the first two steps I 
also take when diagnosing EFI problems.  I've had way too many 
intermittent problems with the coolant temp sensor, if it is more than a 
year old then it gets replaced.  There is a date code on the bosch 
replacement sensors.

     Is this an XJ40 bodied car?  

Iain McShane wrote:
> 
> Posted this question last week but no responce.
> I have been working on my 1986 XJ 3.6l, trying to solve the cutting out  problems.
> Happens when the car is driving, at 90 deg the engine dies, very much like fuel
> starvation.
> If I play with the throttle the engine will pick up.
> I have checked the ign system whick is ok.
> Checked the fuel pressure stationary which is within spec.
> The fuel pump makes labouring noises when the fault occurs but I do not know where or
> how to check the feed to the fuel pump relay as this car has "LH" type fuel injection.
> Any feedback appreciated.
> Iain.

------------------------------

From: Chuck Roach <76637.3501@compuserve.com>
Date: 27 Apr 96 22:38:16 EDT
Subject: TPS and WIndshield wiper motor

Hi,
Has anyone tried using contact cleaner on the throttle position pot.  I checked
mine the othe day and got some erractic readings using an analog ohmmeter.
Looked at it using a Flukemeter and of course it looked fine. Is this pot. just
a standard pot. or is it some odd construction? Which two leads are the ends of
the pot. I didn't remove the pot. so I don't even know it there is any way to
get contact cleaner in it. Any ideas?

My windshield wiper motor cover also fell apart and blocked the drain tubes.
Nice of them to take a large drain opening down to a 1/2" opening inside the
engine compartment. Damn, was that water cold running into my shoes. I went to
my Jag dealer to pick up a new cover and the parts/svc. mgr. told me to forget
it and just use an old one gal. plastic bottle ant cut it to fit and hold it in
place with cabble ties. Worked great. Will probably last as long as the
original.

Saw a number of posts on the odometer hanging up. I had this problem for years.
Would occasionally hang up when rolling another thousand miles. About 30 miles
later it would start working again. Until one day when it quit for good. I took
the Speedo apart and the problem was one of the wires going to the motor that
drives the odometer part was rubbing on the one thousand position wheel. Moved
it away and no problems since.

Regards,

Chuck Roach
76637.3501@compuserve.com
croach@tnet.net

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 18:04:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Old Engines

Kirby asks;
- ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
How do I measure the cam lobe wear?

    You don't need to actually measure it. If there is enough wear that
you cna see marks on the lobe, the cam needs replacing.
  LLoyd

------------------------------

From: Don Tracey <dont@echuca.net.au>
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 09:42:44 +1100
Subject: Re: XK150

John Elmgreen wrote:
 >
 > Dear Don,  Thanks for your note.  You should get a full list of CCs with this
 > message.  You are on my list now.  The idea is you copy all with any queries or
 > answers.  I was very interested to hear about your 150 roadster as it was not on
 > my Aussie list before - what is the car's history?  Presumably it came in from
 > the USA in the last 5-10 years?  What State?  Any previous owners known?  What
 > is the engine number?  There are only a few 150 owners in this group but we
 > should be able to help with your queries.  My own 150 lives in a garage down the
 > road, so I cannot always get out to it to do measuring up etc straight away.
 > Let us have your questions anyway.  Who owns the 140 DHC?  What is its history?
 > I would be interested to know.  By the way, Ii think you are only the 2nd Aussie
 > in this group - glad of the company!  Regards,  John Elmgreen

 Dear John, The 150 is indeed an American import, from Ca.The only and I presume last
 registration is for a Merle Stearns in Ceres Ca,imported in 1989. LHD.The original
 engine no is V3783-8.However the car has been modified to 3,8 s specs ,also has a
 factory c/r gbox.The car is in what I would call fair condition,with the usual rust in
 the shut panel boxing behind and above the rear m/guards/fenders.The rust was hidden
 with tin and body sealer I don't know if it was badly done by experts or well done by
 what we call here bush mechanics.The car hadn't been used since it had came here only
 stored,I only brought it last year.Restoring the car to be driven not as a show
 car.Missing some pieces front bumper and mountings,bonnet/hood chrome strip,chrome  
 cover strip off ln door .I intend to make a front bumper from a mk2 centre section and 
 a  mk7-8 outer,the long strip somebody told me was off a mk7 but the one I have off am 
 mk7 is triangular in section,from the photos it look like a 1/2 round form, any ideas? 
Also  how does one remove the rear hubs off the axle any easy way? I also own mk2,mk5 
,and a  64 eh Holden(like a small chev)the holden is the only one going at the moment.I 
intend to join AA(Autos Anonymous)soon as I resign from the procrastinators club.Back to 
my  friend Charlie's xk140 I hit the wrong key (Well they are side by side,thats my 
excuse)its a fhc not a dhc.I will get details and forward the as soon as possible. Hope 
this posting is not too long and boring as I am fairly new to the net.  Regards Don 
Tracey-Australia

This is a repeat of the message I sent yesterday but had returned as I had some of the 
addresses wrong ,so am not sure who got it ,so if you have already received please 
accept it my apology for clogging you email.I have just come home from working on the 
150 ,this list seems to be spurring me on.
               Don Tracey

------------------------------

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #66
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jag-lovers-digest          Monday, 29 April 1996       Volume 02 : Number 067

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 07:45:34 -0400
Subject: Re: TPS and WIndshield wiper motor

Chuck, the throttle pot ( I assume youare talking about an XJS) is a mylar
sheet with conductive carbon coating and a movement arm.  The resistance is
through the carbon. In other words it's a real piece of crap IMHO.
I bought a new one for $110 from:
Motorcars
Houston TX.
713-863-9388
(Although I think with enough fiddling you could adapt a normal, off the
shelf rotational potentiometer)

------------------------------

From: "Richard.Mansell" <Richard.Mansell@psemail.ps.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 13:13:00 +0100
Subject: Re: What's That Noise? (XJ-S)

Message authorized by:
    : /S=palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu/O=SMTP/P=PSC/A=MCI/C=US/ at ccx400uk

     Kirby

     I have had a similar? noise on both my HE and pre-HE. 

     In both instances it was the rear exhaust silencer just bumping the 
     car body due to g-forces of cornering and engine mounts flexing with 
     the torque of the engine under acceleration.

     Richard

______________________________ Reply Separator 
_________________________________
Subject: What's That Noise? (XJ-S)
Author:  /S=owner-jag-lovers@sn.no/O=SMTP/P=PSC/A=MCI/C=US/ at ccx400uk
Date:    26/04/96 15:26

When I make a left turn in my 1983 XJ-S and accelerate out of the turn, I 
get a knock-knock-knock sound from the vicinity of the left (inside) rear 
wheel.  There does not seem to be a similar effect when turning right.

Interestingly, Marty Sullivan (on this list) described to me in person the 
exact same symptom on HIS car.  The cars are several years apart, his is an 
H&E convertible, mine has a 5-speed.

Anybody know what causes this sound?

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: "Richard.Mansell" <Richard.Mansell@psemail.ps.net>
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 13:30:00 +0100
Subject: New book on XJ-S

     For XJ-S fans out there a new book has just been published by Paul 
     Skilleter called Jaguar XJ-S, a collectors guide. (ISBN 0-947981-99-3)

     My signed copy has just arrived and it is full of pretty pictures 
     (nearly 200) of XJ-S's and variants. There is a fair bit of history 
     detailing specification changes etc covering a total of 144 pages.

     Appendix A lists the technical specifications model by model.

     Appendix B lists the location of the chassis/VIN numbers and explains 
     what each bit of the VIN means.

     Appendix C lists launch dates and prices.

     Appendix D is a fairly detailed list of production changes by date 
     chassis and/or engine number.

     Appendix E lists annual production numbers.

     Appendix F lists performance figures.

     If you are into XJ-S's it is well worth a look.

     Richard Mansell

     richard.mansell@ps.net

------------------------------

From: John Elmgreen <100353.1733@compuserve.com>
Date: 28 Apr 96 10:12:20 EDT
Subject: Copy of: XK150

- ---------- Forwarded Message ----------

From:	John Elmgreen, 100353,1733
TO:	L J Haithcock, INTERNET:carpex@ix.netcom.com
DATE:	29-4-96 12:10 AM

RE:	Copy of: XK150

Thanks for your note - I will add you to the group.  You copy everyone on all
questions, and all answers.  I assume you will get a full list of CCs.
	Re the chassis numbers for XK150 S models:  for the benefit of those who
were not in on our earlier emails about this, we were trying to see whether
there was any rhyme or reason to the use of S chassis number prefixes for XK150
S models, and then T prefixes (which applied to most cars).  After consulting
all available books, JCNA etc, we or I concluded that there was no system at all
- - it was just a random business esp applicable to early S models.  Terry McGrath
says he has a factory memo on the subject and I have asked for a copy but never
received it.  I will ask again.
	Re the XK150 list, I have collected a few email addresses of XK150
owners, but if you would send me the ones you have, I will add them on.  I keep
them on a small Excel file which I can print for you if you want.  There are a
few XK150 owners in this group.  Any chassis numbers would be appreciated too.  
	Re the Jag Lovers, several people have now said to me that they do not
get enough relevant material here to be able to cope with the amount of email
generated, so that's one advantage of this list.  I will still generally send
copies to JL so that any new interested parties can add on if they want to.  
	I had the 150 out today too.  Still going well although I have removed a
wheel to send away for reconditioning as it has a broken spoke and bad chrome on
the rim.  I bought 300 spokes from a bloke in Wales some years ago, enough to do
all the wheels one day!
	Regards,  John Elmgreen

------------------------------

From: John Elmgreen <100353.1733@compuserve.com>
Date: 28 Apr 96 10:25:04 EDT
Subject: Don Tracey-XK150

Dear Don, Thanks for the note re the 150 roadster.  We will see if anyone in
this group recognises the name of Stearns in CA as the last known USA owner.  I
cannot answer you queries re the front bumper at this stage, would need to do a
bit more detective work.  We'll see what anyoe else can come up with.  Don't
hesitate to repeat any queries, sometimes time does not permit the research
necessary to make suggestions, and we forget them!  Also don't worry about the
length of the message:  you can assume you are preaching to the converted here
i.e. all keen XK owners, who will be interested to hear all about the car,
otherwise they would not be here.  By the way, what is the "Procrastinators
Club"?  Or is it just the "Club" that we all have belonged to at one time or
another!?  
	I see that there is a large auction of old parts in Adelaide shortly, the
Geoff Johnston estate.  Are you going to it?  I got the catalogue, not much Jag
stuff but I put a bid in for a history of the Lucas company (some will say it
will be a pile of black pages).  
	You could try contacting Terry Hilton in Orange, NSW for help re the
front bumpers etc.  He may be slightly gruff at first, but genuine interest
should ensure a helpful response.  
	Do you have any of the original tools with the car?  e.g. jack? ratchet?
T handle? others?
Regards,  John Elmgreen

------------------------------

From: egilk@sn.no (Egil Kvaleberg)
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 13:28:52 GMT
Subject: Re: Old Engines

Kirby Palm (palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu) wrote:
> If you have an engine with a lot of miles on it but is otherwise operating
> perfectly, what kind of horsepower reduction can you expect compared to a
> new engine?

I've always assumed that old engines that are otherwise OK gave *more*
horsepower. Mainly due to lower friction losses (which can be quite high).
Race engines are usually built loose for the same reason.

> And what are the typical causes of these reductions?

Reductions, if any, would come from:

1. Piston blowby first and foremost, I'd guess. But at least the
   problem lessens as the RPM increase (why: the pressure in the
   cylinder is the same, the time for the leak to have an effect is 
   shorter). So it should effect mileage and low speed torque more
   than max. horsepower. 

2. Increased valve clearance. Easily corrected.

3. Bad spark, worn plugs. Very easily corrected. 

4. Wrong or jitter in spark timing due to distributor wear. Easily
   checked and corrected.

5. Leaking valves, but that is more of a worn-out condition. 

6. The same goes for worm cam lobes, which can, if present, significantly
   reduce power.

7. Carbon build-up and/or increased oil content of inlet air due to
   blowby, leading to pinking.

8. But most importantly: The owners and/or passengers mechanical sympathy:

       "Hey, you can't drive this quick with an old car
	like that. Something will surely break."

       No, it won't. I've tried. Repeatedly :-)

Egil
- --
Email: egilk@sn.no  Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL:   http://www.sn.no/home/egilk/

------------------------------

From: Roly Alcock <roly@redac.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 17:21:13 +0100 (BST)
Subject: Film pages

Just a quick note.

Thanks to contributions to the film pages at Nicks web site, these pages
are now updated.

Roly
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Roly Alcock, (Postmaster)       Principal Systems Engineer
Redac Systems Ltd,              Tel: 01684 294161 ext. 211
Zuken-Redac Group Limited,      Fax: 01684 298902
Green Lane,                     
Tewkesbury,                     E-mail: roly@redac.co.uk
Gloucestershire, GL20 8HE, UK   Web: http://www.redac.co.uk
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu (Nikolai Chitaev)
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 15:53:54 -0500
Subject: Q:Catalytic convertors.

Hello, there.

Could someone, please, explain me what are those catalytic convertors,
where they are and how they work.

Thanks in advance.

                                Nikolai A. Chitaev, PhD.
                               <<87`XJ6 4.2L, EFI, BRG>>
                               {nikolaic@visar.wustl.edu}
                                {http://128.252.119.253}
                                 St.Louis, Missouri, USA

------------------------------

From: BSherw@aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 17:33:24 -0400
Subject: Camshaft wear

Kirby Palm asked:< How do you measure camshaft wear?>

The most accurate way would be with a "dial indicator", placed so that the
plunger sits directly on the camshaft lobe.  Then while turning the engine
over by hand, the indicator will read the exact lift at any point in the
revolution.  By comparing the base circle reading to the maximum lift, you
know the effective lobe height.  Each lobe can be measured in turn, and
compared to the others.
If the cam is out of the engine, a simple check with a micrometer will work.
 I have to agree with Lloyd, though- serious camshaft wear is usually pretty
visible.

BTW, does anyone know the cam timing specs for an '85 4.2? ( i.e., valve
opening and closing points, relative to crankshaft position).  I'm assembling
an engine now, and would like to check.  I have the tool to fit the camshaft
notch, but this seems crude, more for production-line work.
Has anyone ever tried advancing the cams 1 or 2 degrees, to boost low RPM
power?
Thanks, 
Brian Sherwood '85 XJ-6

------------------------------

From: "Ann Bilodeau"    <ann.bilodeau@Forsythe.Stanford.EDU>
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 96 17:25:46 PDT
Subject: Spark Plug Type??

Can anyone give me the "correct" spark plug number for
Champion sparke plugs for my 1966 E 4.2?  One sources says
UN 12Y for the 9:1 compression and another says N 11Y.
The Champion cross reference even call for a resistor type
RN 12Y I think.  The parts manual is of no help, it just
says Champion with a factor part number N.5.

Any help or education in spark plug type greatly appreciated.

------------------------------

From: Jan Wikstroem <Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au>
Date: 29 Apr 96 10:29:40 
Subject: Re: What's That Noise? (XJ-S)

This is like grandmother asking all and sundry how to suck eggs! I can't 
pretend to know anything about specific knocks, but if anything makes a noise 
when turning one way and not the other, the cause has to be excessive play in 
some component. For starters, I'd stick a garage jack under the left hub 
carrier and wobble the wheel. If that reveals no excessive play, I'd check the 
right side, too, because sound locations can be deceptive (I thought at one 
stage I had a loose rear bumper; turned out to be the &$@%$# sun roof).

If the exhaust pipe mounts are dicky , you could get a laterally polarised (!) 
thumping noise from that source, too. More unlikely, your outer left wheel 
bearing could have some damage. Then there's the real oddball stuff, like an 
inner balance weight that's come adrift just far enough that it hits something 
when the cornering load tips the upper part of the wheel inward; I had that on 
a front wheel, once.

Good luck!
- - Jan   :3+)

------------------------------

From: Jan Wikstroem <Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au>
Date: 29 Apr 96 10:39:12 
Subject: Re: Brakes and MOT tests

>From Jim Isbell: (snip)
- ->P-driver is also expected to stay under 80 km/h, which is no way to gain 
- ->experience, and keep his blood alcohol level under 0.2%, which should apply 
to 
- ->all of us.

- -Jeez, I hope this is a misprint,  In the US  0.1%  is considered legaly
- -drunk!  At 0.25% you are on the verge of death (unless you are an alcoholic
- -and have built up a tollerance).  And 0.3% is rarely seen unless the victim
- -is dead.

Indeed and of course, 0.02% is what I should of wrote. This keyboard can't 
spell worth a damn...
- - Jan    :3+)

------------------------------

From: Jan Wikstroem <Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au>
Date: 29 Apr 96 11:04:39 
Subject: Re: Old Engines

Kirby, you put me in mind of a couple of Swedes back in the fifties that had 
great success in showroom stock racing because they installed worn old engines 
and gearboxes in their Volvos; the theory was that there was less friction loss 
in well-broken-in equipment. 'Course, that was back when 60 bhp was Big Time 
and friction losses mattered more than nowadays... My personal experience has 
been that most of the power loss in old engines is due to worn  carburettors 
and sloppy ignition components so that mixture and spark advance, while they 
may be correct at idle, no longer track the correct load curve. I had my '73 
240Z overhauled at 225,000 km but it was still listless and rough; bushing the 
butterfly pivots in the carb bodies and replacing the needles, jets, float 
valves and seals gave it an incredible shot in the arm - suddenly, it was 1973 
again.

Worn valve seats wouldn't help, either, to the extent that they mask the valves 
and reduce effective lift.

As you say, excessively worn piston rings will probably lose some power, but 
it's been my experience that this is insignificant at high revs. When I bought 
my second Vincent Black Shadow it had a gouge in the wall of the rear cylinder 
(from the gudgeon pin that the PO had forgotten to circlip) that you could have 
lost a pencil through (all right, so I exaggerate, but it was bloody big). It 
was hard to start and ran on one cylinder up to about 3,000 rpm, but the top 
speed was the usual 210 kph (130 mph). That was legal in Sweden back then...

- - Jan

------------------------------

From: Ryan Border <rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 18:49:09 -0700
Subject: Suspension stuff

Greetings-

1) Tech Tip:  Protect and Beautify your bushings!
  There's a core set of shared experiences that cut across culture, 
  race, and generation.  The first time you played catch
  with your dad.  The first time you kissed a girl.  Driving
  a car for the first time.  Sliding across the vinyl bench 
  seat after you'd just "Armor-All'd" it.

  It's that last one that was my inspiration while trying to 
  press in A-arm bushings Friday night.  I've fought this battle
  before with very limited success, but this time I was armed
  with 2 things that made the job a lot easier
   a) a little experience  
   b) better tools: a bench vice and a more complete set of sockets

  Still, I encountered a couple of bushings that simply didn't
  want to be pressed.  So I got to thinking... what would make
  rubber really slippery?  Rubber is sort of like vinyl; and 
  Armor-All makes vinyl *real* slippery... so I tried it.  And,
  it really worked!  Better than lithium grease, better than 
  soapy water, better than anything else I've tried.  I started
  the bushings by hand, soaked the outside of the bushing and 
  inside of the sleeve with armor-all, put it in the vice and
  they slipped right in. I had all 8 bushings done in about 
  20mins.  No guarantees, but it's something most of us have
  laying around the garage anyway, so it might be worth a try
  next time your fighting bushings.

2) Question:  
  This week I received most of the parts to get my (MK2) susupension
  assembled; including brand new upper ball joints from SICP.  I
  tried to wiggle the ball joints around by hand, just to see how
  smooth/tight they were.  They were *really* tight, I could not
  budge them.  So I locked the head of one down in my vice (just
  like it would be locked into an upper A-arm assembly) and 
  tried to wiggle it... no go.  Next I spun the nut onto the end
  of the ball joint, and tried to wiggle it (in the vice) with 
  a hammer.  Still no go; though I certainly didn't wail on it
  or anything.  Is this normal?  How tight should these be?  As far
  as I can tell; there's really no need for a pre-load on the upper
  ball joints- though I could be wrong.  I'm just looking for
  a little re-assurance before bolting these in;  I'd hate to
  have to tear it all apart again if these parts aren't OK.

Ciao-
===== __ ============================================================== |> ===
     /\_\           Ryan Border                           o~_ o~_     __|    *
    / / /           Hewlett Packard Company, Inc.          >/-.>/'_  /_o|    *
   / / /_  _______  Software Design Engineer             ( )\---\(*)-( )'    *
  / / /__\/\______\ email: rborder@cup.hp.com or border@best.com             *
 / / __  / / __   / 19111 Pruneridge Ave. mailstop 42LX, Cupertino, CA 95014 *
/ / / / / / /_\/ /  (408) 447-2496      FAX: (408) 447-0641                  *
\/_/\/_/ / _____/   WWW: http://www.best.com/~border/howdy.html              *
===== / / / ==================================================================
      \/_/                

------------------------------

From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 22:45:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Delanair

To XJS owners and/or Delanair AC interested persons:

Kirby,
To answer some questions you had:
I think it would be virtually impossible to get the heater core out without
removing the dash.  Seems to me the dash is not really that difficult to
remove anyway.
The pipes and heater core are brass, the screws holding them together were
steel.  I guess stainless bolts would be better.  You could replace them as
apreventive measure.  I would DEFINATELY always fix this and replace the o
rings if the dash was removed for other reasons.  This leak really screwed up
a lot of stuff under there.  The drips ruined the AC amp, connectors, and my
CD player.
The O ring resides in a triangular space when the pipe is fitted into the
core.  My belief is that O rings work best when trapped in rectangular
spaces.  They were squished all over the place.  I would use Viton O rings
next time.
Dunno about the limit switch on the servo motors.  Will check.
I have a digital camera.  I can send files but I need some advice on how to
compress them i.e. whats the best way??
Julian Mullaney
XJS

------------------------------

From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 22:59:17 -0400
Subject: Re: XJS bodywork

I spent today stripping all the exterior chrome, bumpers etc. off of my 1987
XJS prior to a paint strip and new paint.
I noticed a couple of things XJS owners might want to know about ( maybe for
the book too, Kirby):

1)   water was pooling behind the rear light fixtures and there is no drain
hole.  Luckily I had no rust yet.  I will drill a drain hole here before
painting.

2)  Beginnings of rust under the lowermost lip of the trunk (boot) lid.
 There are not enough drain holes here  where the two sheets of steel are
spot welded.  Again, I will drill a couple more drain holes.

       Also, on a happier note, I was able to polish the rear light lenses to
look like new.  The XJS rear lenses are rather big and had gotten very dull
looking.  By using a $5 buffing wheel, a drill, and some jewelers rouge I was
able to make them glitter like glass again !

Julian Mullaney 1987 XJS

------------------------------

From: jamesc@oasis.novia.net (jc)
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 21:22:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Type??

>Can anyone give me the "correct" spark plug number for
>Champion sparke plugs for my 1966 E 4.2?  One sources says
>UN 12Y for the 9:1 compression and another says N 11Y.
>The Champion cross reference even call for a resistor type
>RN 12Y I think.  The parts manual is of no help, it just
>says Champion with a factor part number N.5.
>
>Any help or education in spark plug type greatly appreciated.
ANN
   I HAVE ALWAYS USED THE UN12Y IN THE E TYPE. THESE ARE NO LONGER
AVAILABLE WITHOUT THE RESISTOR IN THEM. I AM TOLD THAT THEY COMPENSATE FOR
THIS AND THE "HEAT" IS THE SAME IN THE R12Y. I CANT TELL THE DIFFERENCE.
THE GAP SHOULD BE SET AT .025INCHES.  JIM CANEDY SS100,120RACER,150S,MK V
DHC, MKVII,EX2

------------------------------

From: REMANKING@aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 23:57:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Various XK stuff

1)Saw John's post about putting in a bid for a history of Lucas.  This book
is called   "Lucas    the first 100 years".  I have a copy, they are fairly
rare in the U.S..  It's a   interesting  piece, but tends to dwell too much
on Joesphs attitude towards      employees.
2)The "Ex-Bira car".  In regards to the post of a couple of weeks ago about a
LHD 120 for    sale locally here is Glendale, CA.  John E. was right as the
car was once owned and      raced  by Prince Bira of Siam.  The car was
brought over from England about 20 years    ago and had never been restored.
 It is fairly original, except the rear fenders have been    smoothed into
the rear body were the welting should be.  The asking price is $17k
      which for and original LHD early 120 with Royalty and racing history
isn't too bad.  For    more information contact Bruce Carnachan as a friend
of his is the owner.
3) In regards to the tire pump hose for 120's being stored in the tool roll.
 Should I        assume that the repros in which the hose is permantly
attached to the pump are      "incorrect."  Were all 120 pump hoses
removable?  Does anyone know of a repro        which has a removable hose?
4) Received a copy of the new XK book by Boyce.  Not much information on
restoration     or originality, but a lot of early photos
(competition/racing) that I have not seen before.
   Was worth the 19 pounds.
5)Have a good story about the 120 worth sharing.  I have been driving mine a
lot recently    and when ever I park it people always walk around it trying
to figure out what it is.  The    only place they can find to ID it is the
bonnet badge.  As you know is says "Jaguar       cars LTd- Coventry"  A woman
called out to her husband today "Honey its a Jaguar       Coventry" to which
he replied "yea a Coventry, I thought so."  Better than an MG I
          suppose.
6) Speaking of the bonnet badge the original is made up of three individual
pieces.  How    about the repos are they one part?
7) Can anyone tell me what is the shape of the screw heads on the two screws
that hold    the side catches for the top clamps that attach to the
windshield side pillars?  I can tell    they are a BS thread but don't know
if they are round, oval or square headed screws.    

------------------------------

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #67
*******************************

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jag-lovers-digest          Monday, 29 April 1996       Volume 02 : Number 068

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jan Wikstroem <Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au>
Date: 29 Apr 96 11:52:45 
Subject: Re: TPS and WIndshield wiper motor

Pardon me for butting in, but I believe the recent post from Juliansean (snip)

>(Although I think with enough fiddling you could adapt a normal, off the
>shelf rotational potentiometer)

calls for a touch of caution: the pot is not necessarily linear. Granted, it's 
*probably* linear, but I'd make sure before I replace it with something better 
(or anyway hugely cheaper!) from Tandy et al.
- - Jan

------------------------------

From: sfisher@sola.com.au (Scot Fisher)
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 96 00:18 CST
Subject: Brake booster delay (XJ6 III, 1982)

My XJ6 has had the following symptom since I got it about 4 years ago, and
had the
symptom prior to that for several years.

Engine off:

When the car is left overnight the residual vacuum in the brake booster
bleeds to
atmospheric pressure.  This means that when you get in the car it initially has
no brake assist. The pedal feels hard under foot and requires heaps of pressure
to operate the brakes. During the day after the initial start up there is no
trouble with boost being avaliable prior to start up.

Engine on:

It usually takes about 4-15 seconds for the brake boost to come on line.  This 
normally is no problem for I rarely go anywhere within about 1 minuite of
starting
it. If you have your foot on the pedal you can feel it give slightly and go
a bit
softer when the brake boost comes on.

Q: Why do I get this delay in the vacuum build up?  Which parts should I
check out
or replace?

Regards Scott.

_______________________________________________________________________________
Scott Fisher [sfisher@sola.com.au] PH: (08)329-28341.                

                                                             _--_|\       N
SOLA OPTICAL                                                /      \    W + E
International Holdings Research Center                      \_.--*_/      S
Adelaide, South Australia                                         v

Joy is a Jaguar XJ6 with a flat battery, a blown oil seal and an unsympathetic 
wife, 9km outside of a small remote town, 3:15am on a cold wet winters morning.
_______________________________________________________________________________

------------------------------

From: Are Lorentsen <are@vinn.no>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 96 08:16:00 PDT
Subject: RE: Brake booster delay (XJ6 III, 1982)

Scott Fisher wrote (some deleted)
>It usually takes about 4-15 seconds for the brake boost to come on line.
>This
>normally is no problem for I rarely go anywhere within about 1 minuite of
>starting
>it. If you have your foot on the pedal you can feel it give slightly and go
>a bit
>softer when the brake boost comes on.

Thank you for bringing this up, I was going to. My 82 XJ6 has
exactly the same problem, except that it often takes 1-2
minutes before the brakes boost comes on.

Are Lorentsen
Narvik, Norway
E-mail: are@vinn.no

------------------------------

From: Jan Wikstroem <Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au>
Date: 29 Apr 96 16:08:38 
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Type??

Spark plug requirements vary a good deal according to the engine's state of 
tune, climate, how you drive, whether you do mainly short or long trips etc. 
You can determine which is your ideal plug by inspection, provided that your 
engine isn't burning oil badly, which tends to soot up the plugs.

Starting with the plugs you have, have one from each bank sand-blasted, then 
drive for a week or so in your normal fashion. If you don't mind what you 
spend, put in a fresh set of the recommended grade instead. I have found NGK 
much superior to both Bosch and Champion, by the way.  Coming home from a 
"normal" drive, shut down the engine without idling. Pull the cleaned plugs and 
inspect the working face of the insulators. Ideally, it should be no darker 
than the colour of milk chocolate and no lighter than tan.

If the plugs are white or nearly so, you need a "harder" or "colder" grade. The 
terminology is confusing here, as some people mean the exact opposite, but 
there's an easy way to tell: you need a plug where the insulator doesn't 
protrude so far on the working end, so less of it is exposed to combustion 
heat. If the plugs are dark brown or black, you need a "softer" or "hotter" 
grade - yes, you guessed it; one where the insulator sticks further into the 
combustion chamber.

It's very important that you tighten the spark plugs enough so the washer gets 
well compressed and heat is transferred properly to the cylinder head,but not 
so much that you strip the thread in the aluminium cylinder head - which is not 
difficult for a strong person. It's easiest with new plugs that have an unused 
washer: screw them in firmly with your fingers, then tighten two flats more. 
This doesn't work well if the thread has dirt or grit in it, so here's a neat 
way to clean out the threads:

Take a used-up spark plug and use whatever comes naturally to break up the 
insulator and remove the earth electrode and the centre electrode. Make two 
lengthwise cuts all the way through the threaded part with a hacksaw, then use 
a fine key file to remove the burrs. When you screw this item in and out a 
couple of times, it'll leave the thread clean as a whistle and very little will 
fall down into the cylinder, as the dirt is caught in the saw slits. I like to 
be fancy and make things easy for myself, so I welded a short socket wrench 
extension shaft (which was no good anyway) to mine. The V12 - even the pre-HE - 
is just a little awkward when it comes to playing withbthe spark plugs...

Have fun!
- - Jan

------------------------------

From: Michael Neal <mneal@wco.com>
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 1996 20:37:26 -0700
Subject: Re: Delanair

Julian,
     There is no reason to remove the dash.  It's fairly easy to get to 
the heater core.  Jaguar has a gasket to replace the orings.  It is 
shaped like the mating pipe of the heater core and is made out of a 
silicon/rubber type material.  
    It's been too long since I replaced one of these.  The XJ40 uses a 
similar unit and the heater core is accessible from the right side.  
There is a large piece of black tape, similar to electrical tape, that 
covers the access panel.  Removal of the core is simple as unbolting the 
pipes, pulling the glovebox and access cover and removing the core.

Juliansean@aol.com wrote:
> 
> To XJS owners and/or Delanair AC interested persons:
> 
> Kirby,
> To answer some questions you had:
> I think it would be virtually impossible to get the heater core out without
> removing the dash.  Seems to me the dash is not really that difficult to
> remove anyway.
> The pipes and heater core are brass, the screws holding them together were
> steel.  I guess stainless bolts would be better.  You could replace them as
> apreventive measure.  I would DEFINATELY always fix this and replace the o
> rings if the dash was removed for other reasons.  This leak really screwed up
> a lot of stuff under there.  The drips ruined the AC amp, connectors, and my
> CD player.
> The O ring resides in a triangular space when the pipe is fitted into the
> core.  My belief is that O rings work best when trapped in rectangular
> spaces.  They were squished all over the place.  I would use Viton O rings
> next time.
> Dunno about the limit switch on the servo motors.  Will check.
> I have a digital camera.  I can send files but I need some advice on how to
> compress them i.e. whats the best way??
> Julian Mullaney
> XJS

------------------------------

From: "Alastar W. Lauener" <bu08@central.napier.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 09:45:05 +0100
Subject: Suspension stuff

Ryan said Re top ball joints.

>) Question:  
>This week I received most of the parts to get my (MK2) susupension
>assembled; including brand new upper ball joints from SICP.  I
>tried to wiggle the ball joints around by hand, just to see how
>smooth/tight they were.  They were *really* tight, I could not
>budge them.  So I locked the head of one down in my vice (just
>like it would be locked into an upper A-arm assembly) and 
>tried to wiggle it... no go.  Next I spun the nut onto the end
>of the ball joint, and tried to wiggle it (in the vice) with 
>a hammer.  Still no go; though I certainly didn't wail on it
>or anything.  Is this normal?  How tight should these be?  As far
>as I can tell; there's really no need for a pre-load on the upper
>ball joints- though I could be wrong.  I'm just looking for
>a little re-assurance before bolting these in;  I'd hate to
>have to tear it all apart again if these parts aren't OK.

I got my Balljoints from Jaguar, and was surprised how tight they were.
Even mounting in a vice, and with a tubular lever over the stem, they were 
dificult to budge.
BTW, you can replace the lower shimmed joints with the latest sealed for life 
XJ40 type, and they really do just bolt in, much easier job.

  ************************************************************************
 * Alastair Lauener                       Work  Phone +44 131 455 2458    *
 * Chief Technician                             Fax   +44 131 455 2267    *
 * Department of Building & Surveying      Home Phone +44 1577 864242     *
 * Napier University, Edinburgh EH10 5DT   a.lauener@central.napier.ac.uk *
 * 1964 3.4 S-Type  story at http://www.sn.no/home/nick/alas.html         *
  ************************************************************************

------------------------------

From: Paul Peard <Paul.Peard@BankersTrust.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 10:56:36 +0100
Subject: Re:  A/C gremlins [XJ-S]

"> Me too, my car is an '86 XJ-S V12 RHD UK car, a few days
> after I bought it last year the A/C stopped working (the fuse in
> the left hand console "cheek" blew). The effect was exactly as
> described (it was August so I had the windows open when the A/C
> stopped working) left leg get warm, ash tray heat up to the
> point where you don;t really want to touch them."

Still happens now when I run with the A/C switched off, when its working, it all seems fine 
and air blows where/when it is supposed to, the guy who fixed my heater matrix (an A/C 
specialist) gave the system a once over and said everything was OK.

Regards
Paul

------------------------------

From: "Martin Robert Fooks, WWIS" <mfooks@postiss.netherlands.attgis.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 96 11:51:00 PDT
Subject: XK8 Styling again

One of the Dutch Auto Mags has a feature on the XK8 accompanied with some   
interesting shots of the car alongside an XKE.

I think the quote from Tez, that you will see what you want to see in the   
styling is true, as from the correct angle, the fronts of the two jags   
are very similar, from the gaping intake hole at the front, through the   
lines in the middle of the bonnet, even to the side indicators.

I think only time will really tell (helped along with a decent price) and   
hope to be on this list in 20 years time with my XK8 Cabrio, discussing   
how I don't like the new L-Type.

 --------------------------------------------------------------------------  
 -----------
Martin R. Fooks (Martin.Fooks@Netherlands.NCR.COM)
    (Martin_Fooks@MSN.COM)
Web Pages :http://www.cris.com/~Mrfooks/
Tel : +31 20 651 2698/ +31 20 41 91 731
 --------------------------------------------------------------------------  
 -----------
Network Consultant, all round good-guy & part-time Demi-God.

------------------------------

From: Paul Peard <Paul.Peard@BankersTrust.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 11:08:44 +0100
Subject: Re: Delanair [XJ-S]

Julian,

Glad to hear to got to the bottom of the problem, 
if your amplifier is shot do you want the address 
(UK) for the guy who makes new/better amps. I have 
no association with him, except he mended my car 
once....

Regards
Paul

------------------------------

From: "J.W. Beckmeyer" <73131.3076@compuserve.com>
Date: 29 Apr 96 08:29:54 EDT
Subject: Copy of: RE: MK 1/2 Suspension stuff

- ---------- Forwarded Message ----------

From:	J.W. Beckmeyer, 73131,3076
TO:	Ryan Border, INTERNET:rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com
DATE:	4/29/96 7:36 AM

RE:	Copy of: RE: MK 1/2 Suspension stuff

Ryan Border wrote:

>> Rubber is sort of like vinyl; and    Armor-All makes vinyl
>>*real* slippery... so I tried it.  And,   it really worked! 
>>Better than lithium grease, better than    soapy water, better
>>than anything else I've tried.

I'll try it!!!   Armor-All never crossed my mind when I was trying to find a
lube to use and, as I have a couple of bushings to go, I'll have ample
opportunity to give it a go.  Thanks for this tip, Ryan! BTW, up to this point,
the best lube I found was silicone grease.

>> Is this normal?  How tight should these be?  As far   as I can
>>tell; there's really no need for a pre-load on the upper   ball
>>joints- though I could be wrong.

The ones I got from Brit AUto were stiff as hell.  So were the lowers after I
got them rebuilt, although they were not quite as tight as I had some control
over them.

Hope this input helps.

BTW, PT 2, did you install new bushings/pins in the steering drag link? If you
do, I was advised( by someone we both know and love) to use red loctite.
Unfortunately, I got the advice a few days too late.

Best regards,
Jim Beckmeyer    Union CIty, MI USA
e-mail: 73131.3076@compuserve.com
90 Jaguar XJ-40-Sovereign
60 Jaguar MK II

- --Being poor isn't supposed to be fun.  If it was, everyone would
want to do it.

------------------------------

From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 09:25:47 -0400
Subject: Re: Stiff ball joints

I think ball joints can be too stiff.   I once removed one too many shims
from the lower ball joints on my XJS with the result that the movement was no
longer supple.  You could feel the car not quite returning to original ride
height after minor bumps etc. due to excess stiffness in the joints  You
could also just barely hear them when they moved.  I have since replaced them
with new shimless joints.  
Julian Mullaney

------------------------------

From: chatmans@ext.missouri.edu
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 96 08:29:21 cdt
Subject: Radio Acting Up

     First, sorry for the earlier post regarding my radio acting peculiar 
     and progressively worse. I should have looked in the archives first, 
     but I didn't know about them at the time. I have since found much 
     helpful advice there. Second, I was able to solve my problem in an 
     unexpected way. After discovering on removal that even a slight bump 
     or ground change could sometimes produce the 1888 dial display, I 
     opened the radio and looked for a loose wire. I cleaned the insides 
     but found no loose connections. After reattaching the radio for more 
     testing, it worked fine. Luckily my 12 year old son was helping me and 
     made the crucial link. When cleaning the radio we removed a 50 mm 
     length of cassette tape that was in the works. The tape must have been 
     the culprit. Lesson, if you don't know the history of the tape player, 
     there may be a loose piece of tape making odd connections.

------------------------------

From: Daniel.Crone@lexis-nexis.com (Crone, Daniel A.)
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 10:28:31 -0400
Subject: its raining underneath the dash

Its been raining for 24 hours and the 89 XJ40 has been sitting outside. 
 This morning I sit down in the drivers seat and my left shoe and sock  are 
drenched with water.  On the commute to work, I notice that there is a 
sloshing sound from the dash.  By the time I reach work, no sloshing sound 
but the drivers and passenger's side carpets are soaked.

What's wrong?

{Is this the fault of the humidity buttons on the dash being set 
incorrectly? :-)}

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 10:51:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake booster delay (XJ6 III, 1982)

>When the car is left overnight the residual vacuum in the brake booster
>bleeds to
>atmospheric pressure.
>
>It usually takes about 4-15 seconds for the brake boost to come on line.

Obviously, the booster itself might be faulty.  But before checking that,
I'd check the check valve in the line to it.  On the XJ-S, this check valve
screws into the rear end of the right side intake manifold, and has a hose
connected to it.  Dunno anything about the XJ6, but it's there somewhere,
either in the hose or screwed into the manifold.  Take it out, see if it
looks like it's behaving as a check valve should, replace if doubtful.

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 10:51:42 -0400
Subject: Re: TPS (XJ-S)

>>(Although I think with enough fiddling you could adapt a normal, off the
>>shelf rotational potentiometer)
>
>calls for a touch of caution: the pot is not necessarily linear. Granted, it's 
>*probably* linear, but I'd make sure before I replace it with something better 
>(or anyway hugely cheaper!) from Tandy et al.

I heard a rumor that the pot from a Ford EFI can be adapted with some
fiddling.  If anyone succeeds, please post details.

I'm not real sure linearity would matter much.  As far as I can tell, this
pot serves only two purposes:  1) It tells the ECU when the throttle is at
idle.  This must be carefully set during installation by ensuring the proper
resistance reads at idle position.  2) It serves the purpose of an
accelerator pump by firing all injectors in response to a sudden change in
resistance.

Clearly, linearity is unimportant to the first purpose.  For the second, a
pot with a different linearity but essentially the same overall range would
only make a slight difference in throttle response function, the driver
would probably not notice.

The real problem occurs when this pot is breaking up, as it is wont to do.
When the pot goes from some resistance to infinite resistance and back, the
accelerator function goes nuts, firing the injectors wildly.

The pot on mine went bad right at the position that corresponds to normal
driving speeds.  The wiper apparently wore right through the carbon coating.

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: Kirby Palm <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 10:51:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Camshaft wear

> I have to agree with Lloyd, though- serious camshaft wear is usually pretty
>visible.

This is where I'd like to get some more opinions.  Is there a distinction
between normal wear and actual damage?  This discussion stipulated normal
wear only, engine otherwise operating perfectly.  Will a cam lobe experience
normal wear that reduces the lift significantly?  Will this wear be "pretty
visible"?  Or is the pretty visible stuff what happens during NON-normal
wear, when the surface galls or the thing runs without oil or something?

      --  Kirbert      |  If anything is to be accomplished,  
                       |  some rules must be broken.
                       |          -- Palm's Postulate

------------------------------

From: BSherw@aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 17:33:24 -0400
Subject: Camshaft wear

Brian says;

<If the cam is out of the engine, a simple check with a micrometer will work.
< I have to agree with Lloyd, though- serious camshaft wear is usually pretty
<visible.

   I have seen wear that is probably only a thousanth (of an inch) or so,
where it is not even all the way across the top of the lobe. But even that
small amount is visable, it leaves small scratches and/or shiny spots not the
same color as the rest of the lobe.

   LLoyd

------------------------------

From: Noah Dater <ndater@moose.uvm.edu>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 12:39:18 -0700
Subject: Re: Brake booster delay (XJ6 III, 1982)

I also have the same problem, but the time that it takes my 
brake system to give boost is directly related to the temperate out side. 
If it is cold it takes much longer than if its warm. In fact in the 
summer I have no problem ever. 
- -- 

"When I die, I'd like to go peacefully.
     In my sleep.
     Like my grandfather.
     Not screaming,
     like the passengers in his car..."
                                        -- anonymous--
        -----------------------------------------------------------

Noah Dater                 ----ndater@moose.uvm.edu----
Burlington, VT

------------------------------

From: Iain McShane <shadie@hkabc.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 00:44:11 +0800
Subject: XJ40 Cutting out update

Michael Neal wrote:
>
> Ideally you need to check fuel pressure while driving the car.
> Seeing that the the car cuts out at 90 deg I would recommend replacing
> the temp sensor for the fuel injection.  These are the first two steps I
> also take when diagnosing EFI problems.  I've had way too many
> intermittent problems with the coolant temp sensor, if it is more than a
> year old then it gets replaced.  There is a date code on the bosch
> replacement sensors.
>
>      Is this an XJ40 bodied car?
>
> Iain McShane wrote:
> >
> > Posted this question last week but no responce.
> > I have been working on my 1986 XJ 3.6l, trying to solve the cutting out  problems.
> > Happens when the car is driving, at 90 deg the engine dies, very much like fuel
> > starvation.
> > If I play with the throttle the engine will pick up.
> > I have checked the ign system whick is ok.
> > Checked the fuel pressure stationary which is within spec.
> > The fuel pump makes labouring noises when the fault occurs but I do not know where or
> > how to check the feed to the fuel pump relay as this car has "LH" type fuel injection.
> > Any feedback appreciated.
> > Iain.Thanks for the reply.
The coolant temp sensor has been replaced without any change to problem.
I am sure the problem is to do with the fuel pump, the noise is quite loud.
I will try folowing the feed from the fuel pump.
Could this problem have anything to do with the fuel return system or breather 
system, when I remove the fuel filler cap there is a lot of pressure released.
Cheers Iain

------------------------------

From: TezFair@aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 13:33:06 -0400
Subject: More XK8

Anthony Parkinson asked

<<Are you aware of any plans to introduce an automatice solid cover for 
the dropped top, instead of the classic tonneau? I think Aston and Jag 
are the only luxury cars without this convenience?>>

The engineers are looking at ways to do an auto solid hood cover.
Unfortunately these type of covers are very complex in engineering terms
because of the number of moving parts, hydraulic piping and wiring looms
involved. The upshot being it causes the car to become too expensive to sell
in comparison with a cloth one. When the cost comes down then they will do
one.

Terry

------------------------------

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #68
*******************************

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jag-lovers-digest          Tuesday, 30 April 1996       Volume 02 : Number 069

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jeffrey Gram <101454.2570@compuserve.com>
Date: 29 Apr 96 15:13:46 EDT
Subject: RE: Brake booster delay (XJ6 III, 1982)

Dear list members,

I'm online again after a 20 days break.
The brake booster delay after start up on older jags (10-15 years) I have had
also. It was extremely dangerous, since if I used the boost which was there and
needed to brake hard immediately  (i.e coming to a traffic light) after there
was no boost. This has caused near accidents and every time a heartbeat rate of
160 within a split second. I fiddled for a long time with this problem, I
reconditioned all brake calipers, the master culinder, new air filters in the
servo booster, No change - but better balance. Years after (I am ashamed) when
in for another problem (misalingen centre propshaft bearing) I asked fo r the
jag authorised garage to fix this annoying brake problem. Fix was to install
another brake booster. A new one was very expensive so he fitted a second hand
one -looked scruffy, but my god was there a difference. Instant braking (well
almost) and much better brake feel. And I drove for years with the faulty servo.

I actually dont know what was wrong with the old one. But changing made all the
difference. The series three 12 cylinder has a vacumm storage tank under right
wing.

Apart from the above problem I still find the response time too slow on XJ
series brakes ( I had now driven a few apart from my own). For the ultrafast
reaction in town I find them too slow

Regards Jeffrey Gram XJ6C '78 , XJ12 '84 Sov HE.

------------------------------

From: Noah Dater <ndater@moose.uvm.edu>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 16:18:34 -0700
Subject: brake booster

I also have the same problem, but the time that it takes my
brake system to give boost is directly related to the temperate out side.
If it is cold it takes much longer than if its warm. In fact in the
summer I have no problem ever.
- -- 

"When I die, I'd like to go peacefully.
     In my sleep.
     Like my grandfather.
     Not screaming,
     like the passengers in his car..."
                                        -- anonymous--
        -----------------------------------------------------------

Noah Dater                 ----ndater@moose.uvm.edu----
Burlington, VT

------------------------------

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 16:15:15 -0400
Subject: more spams (zero Jag content)

     Sorry for the garbage, but I've suddenly started getting unsolicited 
     junk mail allegedly from mhclimited.com

     Since my incoming mail is authenticated, it is obvious that it really 
     comes from a user at netcom.com.  If you have received unsolicited 
     mail with either of the following subjects and return addresses, 
     please forward the offending mail to abuse@netcom.com.  The user gets 
     a warning on first offense, a suspended account on second and a 
     terminated account on the third strike.  

     Performance Feedback Seminar
     from Assess Tech<assess@mhclimited.com>

     or

     Please Help Us Save The Children
     from harvest@mhclimited.com

     Thanks, and if you are not a fellow victim please accept my apologies 
     for this message.

     MikeC
     m.cogswell@zds.com 

------------------------------

From: "Lauren E. Pratt" <pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 96 11:42:14 PDT
Subject: To all our Australian Friends

Our Sincerest Sympthies in your darkest hour.

  Lauren
- -------------------------------------
Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 4/29/96
Time: 11:42:15 AM

This message was sent by Chameleon 
- -------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Alastair Reynolds <alastair@areyn.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 1996 21:48:13 +0100
Subject: S Type Steering Problems

I wrote this draft article to help those who might be considering
converting their S Type to modern rack and pinion steering.

I Have been the owner of an S Type now for the last 3 years
(9000 miles). When I got the car the steering was to be honest a
bit flakey. I replaced the track rod ends (4 off) and the idler
and spigot bushes. Jamie Gibbon in Glasgow shimmed the power box
to something like normal. The steering was ok but not fantastic,
not exactly positive but at least not dangerously vague like
before. These renovations kept me going for two years but in a moment of
madness in an attempt to replace a leaking steering pump with a
second hand pump I test drove the result only to find that after
a few miles the pressure limiting valve stuck and all power to the
steering box was lost. The process of returning home with no
hydraulic steering pressure was enough to completely stuff the
free play in the box to an unacceptable level again. 

Worse than that Jamie from Glasgow did not recommend shimming
the box again in case the steering seized in extreme conditions
of lock and temperature. I spent the winter of 95 looking for a
second hand box in reasonable condition, this proved to be a
fruitless task, the closest I came was the temporary purchase of
a reconditioned box from FB components. This turned out to be
the wrong type. At this time I became more interested in the
various conversion kits to modern rack and pinion. There are
three kits on offer Ken Jenkins, Barratts and a company called
Classic Jaguar Spares. The Barratts kit is manufactured by
Vicarage. In fact Anthony Parkinson run's Vicarage's US
marketing operation and is a very active participant on the
Jaguar Lovers internet mailing list. I have to state I did not
want to do this conversion, I dearly wanted to keep the car
original. If the cost of keeping the car original was really
poor steering then that was a price to high. Either upgrade the
steering or sell the car that was the choice. I decided to keep
the car.    

For almost one reason I chose to pursue the Barratts/ Vicarage
approach, they were also the mostresponsive to my questions. 
The reason I was keen on the Vicarage kit was the treatment of 
the power assisted steering (PAS) pump, located below the generator
away from the roasting manifolds and retaining the original fan belt
and pulley system.

The down side is that they had never fitted the kit to an S
Type. I looked closely at the manuals and the chassis of both
cars, they looked very similar to me.  Barratts (Richard Darcy)
were very keen to sell me a kit but initially could not give me
a guarantee that the kit would fit my S Type. As time passed I
kept phoning Richard up asking if they had any more information
about fitting their kit to an S Type. He eventually came up with
an offer I could not refuse (I guess he figured it was the
lessor of two evils, lets face it I was not for giving in). They
would sell me a kit and if I had any problems they would fix
them no matter what the problems were. They would even fit the
kit for free if I took the car to them in Shropshire, if I chose
to fit it myself  then if I got stuck then if I got the car to
them they would still fit the kit for free assuming I had not
caused any damage in the process.

Being a Jag enthusiast of course I was not keen to let someone
else have the fun of converting my S Type for me. I elected to
buy the kit and fit it myself despite the kind offers of
Barratts. Armed with the assurances from Barratts the
distributors and Vicarage the manufacturers I proceeded
carefully. 

The kit arrived in two days, that is where the fun began (I do
not mean that in a negative sense), the rack fitted well enough,
some minor tolerance problems with the left mounting bracket
(bolt alignment) I suspect the Jag chassis was not manufactured
to the same tight tolerance as the Vicarage bracket, some
obround holes would be helpful. The main problem is with the
clearance between the knuckle joint connecting the lower
steering column to the new rack and the chassis. The lip on the
corner of the chassis fouls the new joint (see photo). I was
being sent by my employers on a business trip on the 1st April
96 to Vancouver, so I arranged for Alistair Buxton from Thorns
Garage to modify the chassis, I was not happy with just bending
the lip up, as recommended on the MK2 conversion. The subframe
on an S Type and MK2 are mounted on rubber blocks which move
around while cornering. The S Type may be more of a problem in
this area. I wanted at least half an inch clearance. Just
bending up the top lip would only give an eighth at most.

On my Return from Vancouver I found the welding had indeed been done (see photo), Alistair had left plenty of room for the new steering joint, he had even reconnected the lower column for me. The next step was to connect the pump, no it did not fit, even although the chassis dimensions according to the Service Manuals look identical at the front between the MK2 and S Type. I wrote
an e-mail to Anthony Parkinson in the US and he said to contact
Malclom at the factory in England. Malcolm was extremely
helpful, and extended the offer again to bring the car to him
and he would fix the problems.

I do not give up that easily, there were two basic problems, 1)
The engine stabiliser brackets on the sub-frame denied access to
the rear of the PAS pump for the hydraulic pipes. 2) The PAS
pump fouled the engine mounting in a major way so as not to be
adjustable for it's drive belt.

I tackled the stabiliser bracket by removal, as the bracket by
1966 was no longer used. This unfortunately required the removal
of the sub-frame first.

The other problem required a new bracket. I phoned Malcolm again
with a new suggestion, how about me sending him a design for a
new bracket and they could make it up. To my surprise Malcolm
said yes, I sketched a quick drawing and Faxed it to them for
comment. To my surprise they proceeded to make the part. In the
interim I found another problem with the conversion. Vicarage
designed their kit to integrate the lower engine mounting and
the PAS pump into one bracket. The MK2 conversion  remounts the
Generator (if not already mounted)  on a separate w bracket (not
supplied 15 pounds) fixed above the engine mounting. The
original S Type bracket has the engine mounting and Generator
mounting integrated. The bracket Barratts had supplied refitting
the Genny above the engine mounting did not fit my S Type in two
key respects. The problem is the air intake on an S Type is
located next to the Genny, extending the adjustment for the
Genny location would have violated that space (assuming the fan
belt remains the same length). The alternative would have been a
shorter Fan belt (why have another non standard arrangement if
you can avoid it). The other problem is that the bracket
supplied by Barratts was 1/4 

inch too short, this was easily fixed with a spacer, again what
a guddle ( a well known Scottish term for a bodge).

     I phoned Malcolm at the factory and explained the new
problems, as ever he could not have been more helpful he put me
in touch with Peter who was making my bracket. I agreed to send
a new set of drawings after I modeled the new set up in foam
board so as to get some check on my design. Foam board is one of
these modern materials that professional model makers use for
fabricating look-a-like models of the finished product. I choose
some 3/16 thick the same as the mounting bracket for the
steering pump. After three attempts I eventually had a design
that worked, the foam board is so strong you could even mount
the pump in it's new position and check the clearances. The
bracket design (including Generator mounting now integrated) was
Faxed to Malcolm on the following Monday and to my utter
astonishment the bracket was ready by Tuesday afternoon. This
buy the way is no ordinary bracket. For a start it is made of
3/16 inch mild steel with no fewer than 12 parts before welding.
The parts themselves were not a simple shape either. Those chaps
at Vicarage certainly appear to know what they are about.
Malcolm said "he had never seen a bracket like it, mountings for
everything in all directions".

Conclusion

- --------------

The car is now roadworthy for the 96 season after many hours and
with the MOT just passed. Sure it took much longer than
anticipated (4 Days over a month), but is that not what Jags are
all about. I have to pay tribute to the backup that I got from
Vicarage this was probably influenced in no small way by Anthony
Parkinson. And also the Skill and judgment that Richard at
Barratts showed in striking the original deal. I am in no way
connected with Barratts or Vicarage other than by virtue of the
WWW. I must also thank Alistair Buxton of Thorns Garage for the
excellent welding on the chassis. I can honestly say that the
experience has been well worth while from all sorts of angles.
And las but not least Peter at Vicarage who welded up the
bracket.

1) My steering is now a  miracle of modern engineering, I have
driven it aggressively and I can honestly say there is no hint
of bump steer problems so as I can detect. To be honest that was
my biggest worry. I checked the steering geometry on axle stands
(off load) and on the ramp ( on load) the geometry as far as I
could tell remained the same. That is measuring the tracking in
both positions I think I would have detected if there was a
problem. I guess there could be a problem with the geometry
while cornering, but aggressive driving so far has revealed no
nasty behavior.

2) I enjoyed the problem solving, especially when I now know the
people at Vicarage who have renewed my faith in classic car
business. It is nice to talk to people who are  interested in
your problems after they have collected your money. Vicarage
does now have a solution for the S Type and my testimonial as to
their organisation.

3) I can show by this article that you can with some effort and
very little skill fit modern steering properly to an S Type with
good backup from a professional organisatiion. If I was to do
the job again I am sure it would take half the time. After all
my estimates include time to design a new bracket, that was the
only  skilled part of the job.

Health Check

- ----------------

1) Loosen steering column so as to release lower steering column.

2) Disconnect old steering hardware

3) Mount new steering rack ( 4 bolts).

3) Remove carburetors for access to chassis for welding. You can
do this without removing the        carbs if you have a pit or a
ramp.

4) Modify chassis (see photograph) to allow plenty of room for
knuckle joint at bottom of lower 

    steering column.

5) Remove radiator to gain access to engine pulley.

6) Remove Generator and bottom engine pulley.

6) Fit new bottom engine pulley

5) Remove sub frame and steering to grind off stabiliser
bracket. Remove bracket. (MK2 does not     have this bracket).

6) Refit subframe

7) Remove right hand engine mounting

8) Fit mounting bracket for Generator, PAS pump and engine
mounting removed in 8.

9) Refit all the hardware that is not already replaced (e.g.
Carburetors, radiator, Generator etc.).

10) Set up steering geometry, any good service manual with rack
and pinion steering will tell you     how to do this.

Note:- When considering the cost of this upgrade remember all
the parts you come across that may need replacing because they
are old or worn out

If you don't feel up to the job (Being an amateur the job took
me 4 days over a Month) phone Malcolm at the factory, I am sure
they can fit it for you for a small fee.

Problems remaining

- -----------------------

1) Where to relocate the horn now that the PAS pump is taking up
that slot.

2) The PAS pump belt is a little too long, slipping on full lock.

- -- 
Alastair Reynolds
1966 S Type Owner

------------------------------

From: per@quantum.ece.ucsb.edu (Per Stenius)
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 96 16:48:41 PDT
Subject: XJ6 vs. XJ6L '70-71

I am currently considering buying a XJ6 '71, after testdriving one that was in
rather good condition. This was the first Jag I have driven, and I was rather
impressed how the car felt (especially considering it is 25 years old and has
79K miles on it). So, as you might guess, I have spent the last few days trying
frantically to get some information about the car and thanks to the excellent
Internet resources I have learned a great deal.
Anyways, my question is this: today I saw what supposedly was an XJ6L '70, and
I was surprised at how different it looked. Not only did the XJ6L have a more
"modern" (read lower) grill (which changed the front drastically) but it also
was completely different inside, with meters etc. placed at different places.
Now it may be that the car I initially drove (XJ6) has had its interior changed
somewhat, although at least the seats seemed original. The woodpanel in this
car looked like some pale variety of pine, and so I was wondering whether this
really is as it should be (the car is light blue wt. black leather interior).
Any comments on this are greatly appreciated!
- --
_______________________________________________________________________________
Per Stenius (http://www.engineering.ucsb.edu/~pstenius/)
Office: Room 4158C, Engineering I (for mail use addresses below)
Work:   Dept. of Elec. Engr., Box 14     Home: 6750 El Colegio Rd., Apt.#412
        University of California               Goleta, CA. 93117, USA
        Santa Barbara, CA. 93106               Phone: (805) 685 5357  
        Phone: (805) 893 8664                  Fax: Above number, 10pm-8am USWT
        Fax:   (805) 893 3262           Email: per@quantum.ece.ucsb.edu

------------------------------

From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 96 20:09:41 EDT
Subject: its raining underneath the dash

From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO  ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
*** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FE21
*** INTERNET - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM ***  IBMMAIL - AUIBMSPM ****
Subject: its raining underneath the dash

 I guess you got a bad windscreen rubber seal....by the amount of water
that you're talking about, the deterioration should be fairly
noticeable.....while your at it, check the seal around the bonnet as
well....some water may be getting into the engine bay, and seeping
through some of the holes where pipes and cables, such as the
throttle cable go.....I would also check the door rubber seals,
and make sure that some is not getting in that way as well.....
basically, make sure that whole car is sealed up tight....once  you get
new rubber where you think you need it, give it a good test with a
hose and some buckets....don't know about whether or not the plenum
box in front of the windscreen has access into the cabin in a XJ40 ?
If it does have any kind of venting to the inside of the car, then maybe
it's drainage holes are blocked, and its filling up and spilling
into the car......I had similar problems...the p/o replaced the
windscreen rubber, but still had a leak. I let the car get dry, took out
the carpets, and went to work with a hose and buckets, soaking certain
areas of the front of the car, while sealing up others with plastic
sheeting....after an hour or so, I diagnosed the problem of the water
getting into the engine bay area, and working it's way inside that back
of the dash along the throttle cable. I put an aftermarket rubber seal
right around the lip under the bonnet, and now not only have zero water
getting into the engine bay, but also less engine noise reaching the
cabin......your problem though, will surely be bigger than this, as
you're getting alot more water, enough to slosh around behind the dash.
(the sloshing went away because it all ran down onto the floor...)

***************************************************************
***************************************************************
REGARDS.......Shane
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From: Daniel.Crone@lexis-nexis.com (Crone, Daniel A.)
To: jag-lovers@sn.no (Jaguar)
Message-Id: <1996Apr29.102500.1429.16118@smtpgate.lexis-nexis.com>
X-Mailer: Microsoft Mail via PostalUnion/SMTP for Windows NT
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 10:28:31 -0400
Subject: its raining underneath the dash
Sender: owner-jag-lovers@sn.no
Precedence: bulk

Its been raining for 24 hours and the 89 XJ40 has been sitting outside.
 This morning I sit down in the drivers seat and my left shoe and sock  are
drenched with water.  On the commute to work, I notice that there is a
sloshing sound from the dash.  By the time I reach work, no sloshing sound
but the drivers and passenger's side carpets are soaked.

What's wrong?

{Is this the fault of the humidity buttons on the dash being set
incorrectly? :-)}

------------------------------

From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 96 20:13:13 EDT
Subject: Re: Stiff ball joints

From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO  ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
*** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FE21
*** INTERNET - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM ***  IBMMAIL - AUIBMSPM ****
Subject: Re: Stiff ball joints

 I also had stiff ball joints once....took a few aspirin and lay down for
a while and the problem went away.......

***************************************************************
***************************************************************
REGARDS.......Shane
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From: Juliansean@aol.com
Received: by emout16.mail.aol.com (8.6.12/8.6.12) id JAA05152; Mon, 29 Apr
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Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 09:25:47 -0400
Message-ID: <960429092546_102618438@emout16.mail.aol.com>
To: 73131.3076@CompuServe.COM, jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Re: Stiff ball joints
Sender: owner-jag-lovers@sn.no
Precedence: bulk

I think ball joints can be too stiff.   I once removed one too many shims
from the lower ball joints on my XJS with the result that the movement was no
longer supple.  You could feel the car not quite returning to original ride
height after minor bumps etc. due to excess stiffness in the joints  You
could also just barely hear them when they moved.  I have since replaced them
with new shimless joints.
Julian Mullaney

------------------------------

From: Ben Tobias <bte@kaiwan009.kaiwan.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 1996 19:30:12 -0700
Subject: My New Jagrolet

I'm proud to say I'm in the club!  8D!  I just purchased the Jaguar of my 
dreams.  I wish to acknowledge the help I received from Bill Clark (a member 
of this list) who referred me to the previous owner.  You are a true 
gentleman.  Thank you very much, Bill.

This is what I have:  1976 XJ6L (series II) with a GMC 350 V8 and Chevy 400 
Tranny.  The body is Primrose (pale yellow).  The interior was maintained in 
excellent shape and the car runs very well.  I plan on only minimal work on 
it to really bring out it's sparkle.  I have named her Elizabeth.

I don't mean to start a flame war between the purists and enhancers but this 
is the only way i would buy the car (American mechanicals).  As original, 
there are just too many things to go wrong with this car.  I hope to 
hear some comments from the converted crowd that might have some words of 
advice for me.

So to all of you, happy motoring!

Ben Tobias
bte@kaiwan.com
1976 XJ6L

------------------------------

From: Iain McShane <shadie@hkabc.net>
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 1996 10:41:22 +0800
Subject: Re: its raining underneath the dash

Crone, Daniel A. wrote:
> 
> Its been raining for 24 hours and the 89 XJ40 has been sitting outside.
>  This morning I sit down in the drivers seat and my left shoe and sock  are
> drenched with water.  On the commute to work, I notice that there is a
> sloshing sound from the dash.  By the time I reach work, no sloshing sound
> but the drivers and passenger's side carpets are soaked.
> 
> What's wrong?
> 
> {Is this the fault of the humidity buttons on the dash being set
> incorrectly? :-)}
> 
> I have used a very good system before for this type of problem.
Sikes Pickavant and many other tool suppliers sell an ultrasonic sender (which you
leave inside the car) and a receiver which you check all window, door and 
heating/breather vents for leaks, the unit screams when a leak is found.
The reason I mention S.P is that their tester is also a freon detector to detect air 
con leaks, cylinder head leaks.
Hope this helps.
Iain.

------------------------------

From: Michael Neal <mneal@wco.com>
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 1996 20:59:08 -0700
Subject: Re: Brake booster delay (XJ6 III, 1982)

Scot,
     This is a fairly uncommon problem.  Usually it is a problem with 
the vacuum check valve.  The later Series 3 XJ6s have a check valve in 
the metal line from the intake manifold to the brake booster.  It is a 
black and white valve located near the battery.  They are easily sourced 
at most parts stores, try one for a VW.  Battery acid has a bad habit of 
creating pinholes in the valve, be sure to check it thoroughly.  The 
earlier cars, I don't recall the year break-off, have a check valve 
built into the intake manifold.  It isn't really replaceable and tends 
to jam up permanently.  The procedure is to jam the valve open, mangling 
is ok here<g> and install the later style check valve in the line.  If 
this doesn't improve the boost then you probably aren't getting good 
vacuum or the booster is going.

Scot Fisher wrote:
> 
> My XJ6 has had the following symptom since I got it about 4 years ago, and
> had the
> symptom prior to that for several years.
> 
> Engine off:
> 
> When the car is left overnight the residual vacuum in the brake booster
> bleeds to
> atmospheric pressure.  This means that when you get in the car it initially has
> no brake assist. The pedal feels hard under foot and requires heaps of pressure
> to operate the brakes. During the day after the initial start up there is no
> trouble with boost being avaliable prior to start up.
> 
> Engine on:
> 
> It usually takes about 4-15 seconds for the brake boost to come on line.  This
> normally is no problem for I rarely go anywhere within about 1 minuite of
> starting
> it. If you have your foot on the pedal you can feel it give slightly and go
> a bit
> softer when the brake boost comes on.
> 
> Q: Why do I get this delay in the vacuum build up?  Which parts should I
> check out
> or replace?
> 
> Regards Scott.
> 
> _______________________________________________________________________________
> Scott Fisher [sfisher@sola.com.au] PH: (08)329-28341.
> 
>                                                              _--_|\       N
> SOLA OPTICAL                                                /      \    W + E
> International Holdings Research Center                      \_.--*_/      S
> Adelaide, South Australia                                         v
> 
> Joy is a Jaguar XJ6 with a flat battery, a blown oil seal and an unsympathetic
> wife, 9km outside of a small remote town, 3:15am on a cold wet winters morning.
> _______________________________________________________________________________

------------------------------

From: "Himes,John W." <jwh@dw.att.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 96 11:47:00 PDT
Subject: XJ-S thummpty noise

 Kirby Palm wrote:

>When I make a left turn in my 1983 XJ-S and accelerate out of the turn, I
>get a knock-knock-knock sound from the vicinity of the left (inside) rear
>wheel.  There does not seem to be a similar effect when turning right.

>Interestingly, Marty Sullivan (on this list) described to me in person the
>exact same symptom on HIS car.  The cars are several years apart, his is an
>H&E convertible, mine has a 5-speed.

>Anybody know what causes this sound?

I am not sure if this is your problem or not.  I had a similar problem. 
 This was due to the soft bushing on the rear transmission mount need to be 
replaced. ( it allowed too much play and the noise was from the axle rubbing 
in the tunnel. ) This was only noticeable when the weight shifted to the 
left side of the car ( Right turns ).

John Himes
88 XJ-S 93K miles ;-)

------------------------------

From: "Himes,John W." <jwh@dw.att.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 96 14:17:00 PDT
Subject: Non list content

Just a note to let you know of a new? virus.  Do not download  or execute 
the files
PKZ300B.EXE or PKZ300B.ZIP    If you run PKZ300B.EXE, all data on your hard 
drive will be lost. The only recovery process is to restore the hard drive 
utilizing backup files that are not stored on the PC.  The code in these 
files are a TROJAN HORSE, not exactly a computer virus. This program will 
not spread to other computers unless copied or downloaded and then executed. 
 According to PKWARE Inc., the latest version of PKZIP is PKZ204G.EXE.

I know this is not correct list content, but felt important enough to warn 
of its existence.

John Himes

------------------------------

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #69
*******************************

Jag-lovers-digest V2 #22

–

Roger Peng (408)765-7863 Intel Corporation Design Technology, Physical CAD

Craig Craig Tiano

REGARDS…Shane SYDVM1(SHANEM) SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM *** Forwarding note from SMTP2 --IINUS1 04/02/96 10:46 ***

REGARDS…Shane SYDVM1(SHANEM) SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM *** Forwarding note from SMTP2 --IINUS1 04/03/96 15:22 ***

Any useful information, such as good places to advertise this sort of beast, would be greatly appreciated.

Calvin: People think it must be fun to be a super genius, but they don’t realize how hard it is to put up with all the idiots in the world. Hobbes: Isn’t your pants’ zipper supposed to be in the front?

Martin R. Fooks (Martin.Fooks@Netherlands.NCR.COM) (Martin_Fooks@MSN.COM) Web Pages :http://www.cris.com/~Mrfooks/ Tel : +31 20 651 2698/ +31 20 41 91 731

P.S. Might consider a flame suit under that helmet.

Regards,

REGARDS…Shane *** Forwarding note from SMTP2 --IINUS1 04/23/96 06:38 ***

Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD

Craig
Craig Tiano

REGARDS…Shane
SYDVM1(SHANEM) SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM
* Forwarding note from SMTP2 --IINUS1 04/02/96 10:46 *

REGARDS…Shane
SYDVM1(SHANEM) SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM
* Forwarding note from SMTP2 --IINUS1 04/03/96 15:22 *

Any useful information, such as good places to advertise this sort of
beast, would be greatly appreciated.

Calvin: People think it must be fun to be a super genius,
but they don’t realize how hard it is to put up with all
the idiots in the world.
Hobbes: Isn’t your pants’ zipper supposed to be in the front?

Martin R. Fooks (Martin.Fooks@Netherlands.NCR.COM)
(Martin_Fooks@MSN.COM)
Web Pages :http://www.cris.com/~Mrfooks/
Tel : +31 20 651 2698/ +31 20 41 91 731

REGARDS…Shane
* Forwarding note from SMTP2 --IINUS1 04/23/96 06:38 *