Jag-lovers-digest V2 #392

owner-jag-lovers-di1 · September 30, 1996, 10:31pm

jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 1 October 1996 Volume 02 : Number 392

1987 XJ6 III brake light problem
Re: Substitute throttle potentiometer for V12 EFI
Re: '88 XJ-S V12 (UK) steering rack replacement
My groan is gone! ('59 MK1)
RE: Alternators and Dynamos
RE: nice new jag - need answers
Re: swap name
Re: Restore or replace, SIII XJ-6
Re: 1987 XJ6 III brake light problem
Car Storage - Carcoon
Re: Restore or replace, SIII XJ-6
Re: swap name
aluminum polish
Re: 1987 XJ6 III brake light problem
Re: Restore or replace, SIII XJ-6
aluminum polish
Sir William, noisy AC.
Re: aluminum polish----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: george@brooktree.com (george mykulowycz)
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 96 09:52:22 PDT
Subject: 1987 XJ6 III brake light problem

Hello everyone,

On the way to work today my wife said that the red brake light (idiot light) came on while she was driving. At the time she said the light came on while she was not braking and stayed on after that. She did not stop driving when this happened. Her discription of this was that there was no difference in braking after the light went on. I have not checked out the car yet and I am hoping I can get some suggestions on what to look for to identify what the problem is. If any one has any suggestion please let me know, because I would like to get the car roadworthy a soon as possible.

Last week I installed new front brake pads and at that time the brake fluid was topped up. There is no evidence of any leaks on my garage floor. Any help would be appriciated. Thanks.

George Mykulowycz

87 XJ6 Vanden Plas
77 XJ6C
69 XKE Roadster

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 13:23:45 -0005
Subject: Re: Substitute throttle potentiometer for V12 EFI

Jeffrey Gram:

A small mirror and and a LED-Laser and pick-up sensors packed around
a perimeter of 180 degrees would do the job together with a
array of gates to electronically switch resistances in / out. To overcome
coarseness a Pentium 200 based or other small microprocessor could time
interpolate and average over the signals from adjacent LASER detectors and
switch
a secondary bank of fine adjustment resistors in and out.

This sounds like a workable plan! And it probably wouldn’t cost any
more than the Jaguar throttle pot!

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 13:23:45 -0005
Subject: Re: '88 XJ-S V12 (UK) steering rack replacement

Anyone have a UK supplier and part number for the aftermarket bushings
WITH WHOM THEY HAD GOOD EXPERIENCES ?

Matthias:

I got mine from Barret’s and they are black. They fit well, but the there
is a little metallic sleeve in the middle. When the rack moves in the fittings
you can feel (barely) the sleeve touching the mounting. I don’t know the
other fittings, but a “full” plastic fitting might be better.

This sounds like the bushings were installed incorrectly! The ‘metal
sleeve’ is essential to the design, and the bolt is supposed to be
tightened down until the brackets on the chassis are against both
ends of it. If yours are merely ‘touching the mounting’,
either you didn’t tighten the mounting bolts enough or you didn’t use
enough fender washers during assembly.

How difficult is it really ? Any non-obvious caveats ?

Make sure you remove the bold which connects to the tower
to the steering column, otherwise it won’t come off

True, but you can replace the rack bushings without disconnecting the
steering column.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: Ryan Border rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 10:28:11 -0700
Subject: My groan is gone! ('59 MK1)

Hi Guys-
Back in August, I posted a message to the group asking for some
diagnostic help with a really bad groaning noise my car was making. I
described it then as the same sound a big truck or bus might make just
as it rolls to a stop. It would only happen after about an hours driving,
after everything had gotten warm, and occured when turning left or
driving on a road with lots of crown (right side of car lower than left).
It went away if I applied the brakes, and when it started happening, the
brake pedal also got hard; too hard in my opinion. It began happening
this summer after I completed the conversion to wire wheels.

I’ve let the problem go for a while. I didn’t have any long trips planned
with the car, and during short drives around town, the problem never
happened. I was also kind of depressed about it: the consensus seemed to be
that I might have a bad rear wheel (axle) bearing which would be a major
pain to get to. That, and a new toy in the garage which has been
occupying most of my free time lately, are my excuses for not getting to
work on this sooner…

On Saturday, I finally decided to take a closer look at things
to see if I could find the source of the problem. One theory I had
was that the right rear hub might be loose on the taper, allowing the
rotor to shift slightly between the pads, setting up a vibration. I
was going to pull the cotter pin, and really bear down on the big nut
retaining the hub with an impact wrench. Pulled the wheel and decided
to first check all the nuts/bolts while I was in there.

Call it being in tune with my car; call it mechanics intuition, call
this blind luck whatever you want; but the first bolt I checked was
loose. It was the upper bolt holding the right rear caliper to the axle.
Took almost 3 full turns (I was starting to think it was stripped) to
get it tight. So, I think my theory was close… except that it wasn’t
the rotor that was shifting, it was the caliper.

Took the car for a good long drive on Sunday, and there is no hint of
the noise! No hint of the brake pedal getting hard either!
The groan is gone!

I did replace the pistons on the rear calipers as part of my conversion
to wires (see BestWeb.com - Lease or Buy Domain Names - Best Web Limited if you care
why). I have a faint memory of maybe starting to pull this caliper before
deciding to just swap the pistons in place. Perhaps I started to loosen the
bolt, decided to try and swap in place, and never remembered to re-tighten it.
They weren’t saftey wired (they are now), but rather were held in with red
loc-tite. After losing one of these bolts from a front caliper a couple
of years ago, you’d think I’d have finally learned my lesson…

Happy happy, joy joy-
===== __ ============================================================== |> ===
/_\ Ryan Border o~_ o~_ | *
/ / / Hewlett Packard Company, Inc. >/-.>/’ /o| *
/ / / _______ Software Design Engineer ( )-–(*)-( )’ *
/ / //_____\ email: rborder@cup.hp.com or border@best.com *
/ / __ / / __ / 19111 Pruneridge Ave. mailstop 42LX, Cupertino, CA 95014 *
/ / / / / / // / (408) 447-2496 FAX: (408) 447-0641 *
//// / _____/ WWW: BestWeb.com - Lease or Buy Domain Names - Best Web Limited *
===== / / / ==================================================================
//

From: “Dawson, Barrie” dawsonb@btcec3.agw.bt.co.uk
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 96 18:29:00 GMT
Subject: RE: Alternators and Dynamos

A very simple answer is:
That a dynamo produces direct charging current, DC, and an alternator
produces an alternating charging current, AC.

The complicated answer is:
The dynamo has a rather limited output rarely above 30 amps and as such is
unable to produce sufficient output to efficiently run the modern car.
The alternator however is available in several models which can provide an
output from 60 to 100 amps. The 60 amp versions are the most common whereas
the higher output units are usually fitted to heavy usage vehicles like the
emergency services.

The dynamo works by spinning a coil between 2 magnetic fields, this has the
effect of inducing a voltage in the coil which is tapped off at a constant
current rate. The alternator works by spinning a magnet between 2 coils.
The induced voltage from each coil, 1 positive and 1 negative,
alternating, are fed to the rectifier and the positive voltage is tapped off
at a constant voltage rate. Therefore the dynamo is a constant current
charger and the alternator is a constant voltage charger.

eg. Dynamo: increase engine speed = increased voltage - lights get
brighter.
Alternator: increase engine speed = increased current - no effect on
lights.

Both alternators and dynamos require regulators to ensure a constant feed to
the electrical circuit, the regulator prevents over charging. The
alternator requires an additional circuit known as a rectifier, this
converts the AC output to a DC output required for vehicle circuits. The
regulator on the dynamo is usually a separate device with relays preset to
operate at the required voltage. The alternator has a rectifier built in
and sometimes also the regulator. These devices are “solid state” or
transistorised and far more efficient. Both devices are usually set-up to
give a maximum voltage output of approx 14 volts @30amps(dynamo) &
60amps(alternator), for commercial vehicles this would be 24 volts @60 - 100
amps(alternator).

Barrie Dawson
Chatham, Kent England
1985 series III Sovereign

Subject: Alternators and Dynamos
Date: 30 September 1996 23:38

A very simple minded question. What’s the difference between an
alternator and a dynamo? Is one American and the other English for
the same thing, or is there some kind of a distinction?

Regards,
Makoto Honjo
Phone/Fax +81-3-3473-1848

From: “Dawson, Barrie” dawsonb@btcec3.agw.bt.co.uk
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 96 18:37:00 GMT
Subject: RE: nice new jag - need answers

Quick check do a compression test for the head gasket, look for oil in water
or water on dipstick. General visual inspection of hoses or leaks from the
heater inside the car, could also be a faulty pressure cap.
I’d be concerned if the temperature gauge went above the mid point, this
would indicate trouble.

Barrie Dawson
Chatham, Kent England
1985 series III Sovereign

Subject: nice new jag - need answers
Date: 30 September 1996 11:37

I have found a 1991 ultra-mint XJS V12 Convertible to replace my 1987 that
was destroyed. One owner, all receipts, flawless, only 35K miles.

Two questions before signing the cheque though:

It was a bit low on coolant and I want to make sure it’s not leaking or
(perish the thought) small head gasket leak into exhaust despite the low
mileage. What’s the best way to figure it out???

The temperature gauge never rose above mid point (N) despite repeated
thrashings in very hot climate. However, when cruising at speed in a more
subdued manner, the temp.gauge dropped a little bit. Is this normal or
should I be concerned???

Please respond quick before I buy it anyway.

Thanks Julian Mullaney

From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 14:25:29 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: swap name

On Fri, 27 Sep 1996, Jeffrey Gram wrote:

swap name

I vote for the last more informative name, but something more “cathing” would be appropiate.
what about,

Jag-lovers spares corner ?

The Cats Corner ?

etc.

Don’t forget a good motto, say something like one that 103rd Street Auto
Parts in Jacksonville, Florida, once (still?) had:

"All of our parts are road tested."

Larry Lee

From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 21:10:14 +0200
Subject: Re: Restore or replace, SIII XJ-6

[ Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net ]
|
| I plan to find a local “rent a lift” DIY garage and get the beast up on a
| rack for close inspection. Will survey what it needs and go from there.

Woah there! There can be only one beast, and it is mine.
The series 3 is a female car, no doubt about it, so you’ll
have to find another name for it :-p

The Real Beast ™ is my series 1, manual overdrive, no
girly electric windows, no sun roof, no air-condition,
rough paint-job (British Racing Green, accept no substitute),
no radio antenna, only one wing-mirror and no extra blinky
lights all around. I call it a lightweight, since I keep
having spare bits left over after working on it… It
proven it’s heritage on the racetrack, with me manhandling
the Jag-lovers Nardi steering wheel. It’s made it to the
North Cape and back, with a trailer riding shotgun all the
way. It runs all year round, rain snow or sleet, no problems,
other than an incredibly feeble heater. Thanks to the lack
of soundproofing under the bonnet I can hear every tick,
whine and grunt from the snorting, oil-dripping XK-engine,
pushing it’s waste through the self-installed, very poorly
hung stainless system.

Now, my series 3 is a hairdressers car in comparison. So
my wife gets to drive it

Nick

<<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>>
<<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>>

The JagWeb http://www.sn.no/~nick/jaguar.html <<<
This mail was intentionally written to bait Jim Isbell <

From: Jan-Ivar =?iso-8859-1?Q?S=F8rensen?= jan-ivar.sorensen@kf.kommorg.no
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 21:40:25 +0200
Subject: Re: 1987 XJ6 III brake light problem

At 09:52 30.09.96 PDT, you wrote:

Hello everyone,

On the way to work today my wife said that the red brake light (idiot
light) came on while she was driving. At the time she said the light came
on while she was not braking and stayed on after that. She did not stop
driving when this happened. Her discription of this was that there was no
difference in braking after the light went on. I have not checked out the
car yet and I am hoping I can get some suggestions on what to look for to
identify what the problem is. If any one has any suggestion please let me
know, because I would like to get the car roadworthy a soon as possible.

I suppose you mean the brake-warning light INSIDE the car. There should be a
“brake-circuit-switch” which triggers this. Look in the engine compartment
and follov the brake-pipes from the master-cylinder and you should find the
switch where the brake-pipes are “split” (there would also be two cables
coming down to this “switch”. On some models it can be reset by pressing a
metal-pin located in the bottom of the switch from one side to another. If
you are not familiar with this “brake-circuit-switc” I’ll recomend you to
visit your local garage, because this light should NOT turn itself on unless
there are someting wrong with the brakes.

Last week I installed new front brake pads and at that time the brake fluid
was topped up. There is no evidence of any leaks on my garage floor. Any
help would be appriciated. Thanks.

From: Brian Pel BPEL@mccarthy.ca
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 14:17:52 -0400
Subject: Car Storage - Carcoon

So far the product is suitable for indoor storage only and it appears to do a
good job. A recent Carcoon advert indicates that they are working on an
outdoor version.

From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 13:24:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Restore or replace, SIII XJ-6

Oops - sorry Nick! Tez and I are both terrible examples of people who have
no respect for intelectual property, I guess! Note, though, that mine was
“the beast”, not “The Beast ™”, and possibly, I used a different font. In
any case, I’ll have my lawyer contact your laywer so that we can work this
out. I don’t know how to deal with the various international borders,
however. Maybe Tez would like to share legal expenses! The real problem here
is the need for a publicaly acceptable generic name for when it’s bad, vs.
when it runs well. Usually, it’s just “the Jag”, or “the black Jag” (as
opposed to my 'E, which is white). In the states, at least, this could
really get me in trouble! Maybe the more politically correct model
designations would be better…

The last thing I want to do here is restart the naming thread, sorry I said
anything!

Hunt

At 09:10 PM 9/30/96 +0200, Nick Johannessen wrote:

[ Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net ]
|
| I plan to find a local “rent a lift” DIY garage and get the beast up on a
| rack for close inspection. Will survey what it needs and go from there.

Woah there! There can be only one beast, and it is mine.
The series 3 is a female car, no doubt about it, so you’ll
have to find another name for it :-p

The Real Beast ™ is my series 1, manual overdrive, no
girly electric windows, no sun roof, no air-condition,
rough paint-job (British Racing Green, accept no substitute),
no radio antenna, only one wing-mirror and no extra blinky
lights all around. I call it a lightweight, since I keep
having spare bits left over after working on it… It
proven it’s heritage on the racetrack, with me manhandling
the Jag-lovers Nardi steering wheel. It’s made it to the
North Cape and back, with a trailer riding shotgun all the
way. It runs all year round, rain snow or sleet, no problems,
other than an incredibly feeble heater. Thanks to the lack
of soundproofing under the bonnet I can hear every tick,
whine and grunt from the snorting, oil-dripping XK-engine,
pushing it’s waste through the self-installed, very poorly
hung stainless system.

Now, my series 3 is a hairdressers car in comparison. So
my wife gets to drive it

Nick

<<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>>
<<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>>

The JagWeb http://www.sn.no/~nick/jaguar.html <<<
This mail was intentionally written to bait Jim Isbell <

From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 21:44:16 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: swap name

On Fri, 27 Sep 1996, Jeffrey Gram wrote:

swap name

I vote for the last more informative name, but something more
“cathing” would be appropiate.
what about,
[suggestions deleted]

Jeffrey,

As Kirbert pointed out we need something informative and describing,
that’s why I settled on his suggestion “The Jaguar/Daimler used parts
exchange”. This name also ensures the most correct indexing in all the
different search engines on the Web.

To those of you who haven’t seen it yet, you can find it at:

You can use this service to sell, buy or trade SS, Jaguar and Daimler
cars and parts. The service is free and open for all. No commercial
advertising, please.

Gunnar

From: LLoyd 3030P@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 96 13:58:07 PDT
Subject: aluminum polish

The very thought of bringing up the “A” word again has me in a tizzie, but
I got a question. What can I use to clean/polish aluminum? I tried chrome
polish, but it laughed at me.
I’m talking about the aluminum ribs on top of the 4.2 tappet covers.
The aluminum under the hood is the last skuzzie looking thing there, but I’m
stumped as to how to get it clean looking.

LLoyd

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 17:10:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: 1987 XJ6 III brake light problem

George: Two things, one look for loose wire on top of M/C reservoir,
happens all the time, wire breaks and you never see it. 2 Make sure the
handbrake is all the way down, a slight movement up will sometimes cause
the light to come on.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212 USA 803 798 3044On
Mon, 30 Sep 1996, george mykulowycz wrote:

Hello everyone,

On the way to work today my wife said that the red brake light (idiot light) came on while she was driving. At the time she said the light came on while she was not braking and stayed on after that. She did not stop driving when this happened. Her discription of this was that there was no difference in braking after the light went on. I have not checked out the car yet and I am hoping I can get some suggestions on what to look for to identify what the problem is. If any one has any suggestion please let me know, because I would like to get the car roadworthy a soon as possible.

Last week I installed new front brake pads and at that time the brake fluid was topped up. There is no evidence of any leaks on my garage floor. Any help would be appriciated. Thanks.

George Mykulowycz

87 XJ6 Vanden Plas
77 XJ6C
69 XKE Roadster

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 17:20:44 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Restore or replace, SIII XJ-6

The Real Beast ™ is my series 1, manual overdrive, no
girly electric windows, no sun roof, no air-condition,
rough paint-job (British Racing Green, accept no substitute),
snip
other than an incredibly feeble heater. Thanks to the lack
of soundproofing under the bonnet I can hear every tick,
whine and grunt from the snorting, oil-dripping XK-engine,
pushing it’s waste through the self-installed, very poorly
hung stainless system.

Now, my series 3 is a hairdressers car in comparison. So
my wife gets to drive it

Nick

Now, let’s hear it for manly Jaguars!

John

From: RWOODLIN@garfield.foods.indiana.edu
Date: 30 Sep 96 17:20:21 EDT
Subject: aluminum polish

In answer to Lloyd’s quest:

The best polish I have ever used is a product called Autosol. It is
made in Germany but is available in England and the U.S. It is the
only product I use on aluminum. Discovered it thru a Brit friend whill
polishing motorcycles.

Robert Woodling
'84 XJ-S

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 16:24:55 -0500
Subject: Sir William, noisy AC.

The voice interview I mentioned on the pronounciation of Jaguar was an
interview with Sir William. I consider him the authority on the subject and
he said Jag-u-were.

I have a question about noise from freon flow in an AC system. I just got
my XJ6 back and I can hear the freon flow through the system. I didnt used
to be able to. I had this happen on a Ford Escort once after an AC repair.
Never knew why.

Is this curable? The AC works perfectly, its just that you can hear the
freon “sing” as it goes through the system. Its most noticable after you
shut the car off and the freon goes toward equilibrium.

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: “Lee Walden” lwalden@ebmud.com
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 15:30:36 -0700
Subject: Re: aluminum polish

From: LLoyd 3030P@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil
To: Jag Lovers jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: aluminum polish
Date: Monday, September 30, 1996 1:58 PM

The very thought of bringing up the “A” word again has me in a tizzie,
but
I got a question. What can I use to clean/polish aluminum? I tried chrome
polish, but it laughed at me.
I’m talking about the aluminum ribs on top of the 4.2 tappet covers.
The aluminum under the hood is the last skuzzie looking thing there, but
I’m
stumped as to how to get it clean looking.

LLoyd

I use Mother’s Mag Wheel and Aluminum polish. It works IMHO better than
simichrome polish. Put a little on a piece of terry cloth and rub the Al
until it turns black. Move to a clean piece of the cloth and buff off the
black to reveal nice “mirror finish” clean Al. Use a buffing wheel for
faster shining. Lee

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #392

Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4)
id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Tue, 1 Oct 1996 15:55:18 +0200 (MET DST)
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 15:55:18 +0200 (MET DST)
Message-Id: 199610011355.PAA29429@ekeberg.sn.no
X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f
From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #393
Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Precedence: bulk
X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest

jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 1 October 1996 Volume 02 : Number 393

Re: aluminum polish
XJ40 vs. Series III
XJ40: NO ABS LIGHT
RE: aluminum polish
want to join
Re: nice new jag - need answers
RE: Alternators and Dynamos
Re: 1987 XJ6 III brake light problem
Re: The Beast
XJ6 III fuel filter - effect on idle
Re: XJ40: NO ABS LIGHT
XJ6 III lazy power steering
The big road trip
re: The big road trip
new member
SIII XJ6 Noises
RE: Aluminum Polish
Re: aluminum polish
Re: XJ40: NO ABS LIGHT
1994 Vanden Plas

From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 16:31:27 +0700
Subject: Re: aluminum polish

The very thought of bringing up the “A” word again has me in a tizzie, but
I got a question. What can I use to clean/polish aluminum? I tried chrome
polish, but it laughed at me.
I’m talking about the aluminum ribs on top of the 4.2 tappet covers.
The aluminum under the hood is the last skuzzie looking thing there, but I’m
stumped as to how to get it clean looking.

LLoyd

LLoyd,

Tried Mag Wheel polish? It’s made for aluminum
(alumina/aluminium/aluma/…) and shined my cam covers very nicely.

Greg

            G. W. Price & Company, Ltd
               Santa Fe, New Mexico

Consultants in research, information management 
             and program evaluation
      Probabilistic Record Linkage Services

From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 96 16:01:44 PDT
Subject: XJ40 vs. Series III

The debate goes on:

I like the looks of my
XJ6C, but I’d rather DRIVE the XJ40. It’s the only car that’s made me
think of selling the XJ6C in spite of its beautiful looks, engine, and
ride. It’s primitive by comparison - only its looks have saved it so
far…

The XJ40 is the ugliest Jag…

I’ve owned a series II (not III), and I currently drive a `91 XJ40. I can
tell you both of the above statements have merits to them. What we
really want is a series III body style with XJ40 reliability and advancements.

Indeed, the series III is the most beautiful car in the world, but
it’s not all that durable compared to other cars. Especially when it’s
done over 120K miles, the car virtually needs to be restored. You need
a new engine, new transmission, new paint, new interior, new wood,
no bushings, new steering rack, rear suspension work, some rust removal,
A/C work, electrics repair, and perhaps a new gas tank or two. The total cost
can be daunting, and you need to go through a lot of hassles to get
everything done. Once you’re done, if you ever decide to part with your
Jag, you’ll never get your investments back.

Alternatively, a 90 or later XJ40 with low mileage can be readily picked up at Honda prices. These cars are ready to drive; you can use them everyday. The maintenance is simpler, maintenance cost is lower, and you get to experience a car with 90’s advancements.

Trade-offs? Mostly just the styling, and more cramped interior space.
It’s still a Jaguar, doesn’t feel Japanese or German. If you get a Vanden
Plas, I’d say the interior is even nicer than a series III.

Some other thoughts: If you really like your old series III, keep it
as a second car. Drive it on weekends. Alright, if you simply don’t
like the XJ40, I would try to find another series III with lower
mileage. They can be found at good prices if you’re patient.

Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD

From: cobac@ix.netcom.com
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 16:03:49 -0700
Subject: XJ40: NO ABS LIGHT

Hi all,
Noticed something on my 1989 XJ40 which may actually be a blessing
My ANTI-LOCK FAILURE! lamp has NEVER lighten up. I checked some wiring,
particulary under the dash, and can’t see any visble wire tampering (pulled
apart the harness, and it didn’t light then either!). Some want to disable
this lamp, I guess the PO found out how to! Any suggestions why the lamp
isn’t working? Any idea what to check?
Never noticed this until others complained about the faulty relay in
the boot making “FAILURE” light up.

Thanks a lot for any suggestions!
cobac@ix.netcom.com

From: Aaron Burnett aaron.burnett@attws.com
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 16:08:52 -0700
Subject: RE: aluminum polish

I used 000 steel wool to clean the aluminum induction manifolds on my
XJ-S with very good results.

Aaron
'85 XJ-S

From: LLoyd[SMTP:3030P@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil]
Sent: Monday, September 30, 1996 1:58 PM
To: Jag Lovers
Subject: aluminum polish

The very thought of bringing up the “A” word again has me in a
tizzie, but
I got a question. What can I use to clean/polish aluminum? I tried
chrome
polish, but it laughed at me.
I’m talking about the aluminum ribs on top of the 4.2 tappet covers.
The aluminum under the hood is the last skuzzie looking thing there,
but I’m
stumped as to how to get it clean looking.

LLoyd

From: Nona canoe@onlink.net
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 20:43:28 -0700
Subject: want to join

Hi:
I would like to get onto your Jag lovers E-Mail list.
We are Bill and Nona Schorse and we own a 1955 XK140
special equipment roadster. We have had this car for
33 years. I do all of the servicing and most of the
repair work. Last winter I rebuilt the engine and
transmission. I was in need of fewer band aids on
this engine change than doing the same work on an
E type. We belong to the Nipissing region of HASC
(Historical Automobile Society of Canada). My interest
is in the Mark 7, XK120, 140, 150. I understand that the
1955 XK 140 Special edition roadster is fairly rare.
Does anyone out there have one? Besides our interest in
the Jag we run our own business which is building and
repairing canoes and selling supplies. Look us up at
www.trillium.net/canoe. Please tell us how to join up
so we can exchange ideas etc. The Jag Lovers and the
Jag Lovers Digest look interesting. What is the difference
between the 2 and what is the subscription charge? Hope to hear
from you soon.
Bill & Nona
canoe@onlink.net

From: cbay@ghgcorp.com
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 21:26:12 -0500
Subject: Re: nice new jag - need answers

Think I can answer your first question. Try a cooling system pressure
tester. A good local shop should have one. Pressurize the system up to the
rated pressure of the cooling system & wait. If you have a leak, the
pressure gauge will register it. If it goes down, you have a leak somewere
in the cooling system! At this point you look for wet, seeping areas.
I don’t know much about V-12s, so I’ll leave them to the experts.
Cleo
52 XK120
56 XK140
62 E-Type
65 3.4S

I have found a 1991 ultra-mint XJS V12 Convertible to replace my 1987 that
was destroyed. One owner, all receipts, flawless, only 35K miles.

Two questions before signing the cheque though:

It was a bit low on coolant and I want to make sure it’s not leaking or
(perish the thought) small head gasket leak into exhaust despite the low
mileage. What’s the best way to figure it out???

The temperature guage never rose above mid point (N) despite repeated
thrashings in very hot climate. However, when cruising at speed in a more
subdued manner, the temp.guage dropped a little bit. Is this normal or
should I be concerned???

Please respond quick before I buy it anyway.

Thanks Julian Mullaney

From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 96 22:43:52 EDT
Subject: RE: Alternators and Dynamos

From: SHANE MANTOSZKO IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST
* Resending note of 10/01/96 08:26
* SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FE21
* INTERNET - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM * IBMMAIL - AUIBMSPM **
Subject: RE: Alternators and Dynamos

eg. Dynamo: increase engine speed = increased voltage - lights get
brighter.
Alternator: increase engine speed = increased current - no effect on
lights.

Barrie Dawson
Chatham, Kent England
1985 series III Sovereign

Barrie, if what you say above is true, can you help me out with my
current problem. I have a mitsubishi 4 wheel drive, and am having
electrical problems and idling problems. It is idling very low, and
the voltage gauge is slowly dropping down whilst at idle. Revving the
engine starts to make it climb again, and at the same time makes the
headlights get brighter. Both my mechanic and auto electrician say that
the alternator/regulator are fine. I still have doubts.
Is it just the fact that the car is idling at around 400 rpm as opposed
to its usual 800 rpm that may be causing the problem ? Does the
alternator need enough revs to maintain the voltage level ? (If so,
then my problem is probably the computer or the injectors are probably
dirty…car has been tuned up, so plugs/fuel etc is not the problem…)

Are there any other things that may be causing this charging problem ?

From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 23:58:38 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: 1987 XJ6 III brake light problem

Hello everyone,

On the way to work today my wife said that the red brake light (idiot light) came on while she was driving. … Last week I installed new front brake pads and at that time the brake fluid was topped up. There is no evidence of any leaks on my garage floor. Any help would be appriciated. Thanks. George Mykulowycz There are two things that will turn on the light. There a float switch on the master reservoir that trips when the fluid gets low, and a switch on the parking brake handle. Normally it is either low fluid or the parking brake being set. But there is a third fairly common thing, especially considering the resent work. The float switch is in the reservoir cap. Sometimes when you mess with the cap, one of the wires will come adrift, but stay inside the rubber boot so that you don’t notice it. When this happens, the loose wire will eventually migrate over to the other wire, shorting out and turning the light on. Randy K. Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 05:32:52 +0100 (MET) Subject: Re: The Beast OK, so I’m not Jim but I’ll bite anyway. Nick wrote:

The Real Beast ™ is my series 1, manual overdrive, no
girly electric windows, no sun roof, no air-condition,
rough paint-job (British Racing Green, accept no substitute),

Been there, driven that, got the T-shirt and can vouch for Nick, he’s
telling the truth.

Gunnar

From: tsa@mso.anu.edu.au (Tim Axelrod)
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 15:03:48 +1000
Subject: XJ6 III fuel filter - effect on idle

I’ve been trying for a while to eliminate the cause of rough idling
when my XJ6 III is warm. I’ve always suspected a vacuum leak as the
cause, but have never been able to find it.

This past weekend I finally got around to replacing the fuel filter,
last replaced by the PO (or maybe the PPO…). As I removed the
filter, the horribly cloudy looking fuel that drained back out of it
from the inlet side made it clear that it was way overdue for
replacement.

The surprise: warm idle is now consistently smooth!

I’m delighted, but also puzzled. I would have expected a nearly blocked
filter to affect high power operation, but not idle.

Cheers,

Tim Axelrod
Mt. Stromlo Observatory
Canberra, Australia

From: “Donald R. Farr” d.farr@phx.cox.com
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 22:07:40 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ40: NO ABS LIGHT

Noticed something on my 1989 XJ40 which may actually be a
blessing My ANTI-LOCK FAILURE! lamp has NEVER lighten up.

Count your lucky stars!!! Mine never goes out. Wanna trade?

don farr

Paradise Valley, AZ
(602) 948-7499 - fax
91 Sovereign
d.farr@phx.cox.com - e-mail
http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/dfarr.htm - Don’s Homepage
http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/jetta1.htm - Jetta Notebook Computers
http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/march10.htm - Wireless products
http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/ncs1.htm - National Consulting Services

From: tsa@mso.anu.edu.au (Tim Axelrod)
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 15:10:01 +1000
Subject: XJ6 III lazy power steering

The power steering on my 1981 XJ6 III seems inadequate. Whenever it
is called on to work hard, the steering will suddenly revert to unassisted
operation. An example is when entering a roundabout, which requires
fairly rapid movement from straight to left and then to right. If done
at any speed, the steering will feel unassisted about the time the wheel
starts moving right.

The PO fitted wider wheels and tires than standard, so this doubtless
makes the problem worse, but I’m still convinced the power steering
itself has a problem. The fluid level is correct, there are no leaks,
and no bad noises.

I’m suspecting the pump is due for an overhaul. Does anyone know how
likely this is, or how to check further?

Thanks,

Tim Axelrod
Mt. Stromlo Observatory
Canberra, Australia

From: “Peter Rebbechi (03) 9275 3374” <"REBBECHI PETER"@A1.MEOC02.SNO.mts.dec.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 1996 05:18:00 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: The big road trip

Tomorrow morning, I and a few friends are to venture from
Victoria to Rural NSW for the Bathurst Car races. This is a
1000km event (the race) that is run at sprint speeds for 6
hours. The premier Event for Australia.
By comparison, I will be driving 1,700 km to get there and
back, at decidedly no sprint speeds. The only stop is for
fuel. Because of speed limits, speed will be restricted to
about 120 km/h, as the constabulary also know what happens
to people going to the car races, and use radar,
helicopters, planes etc to spoil our fun. But you never
know!.
I expect the 850km trip to be done in around 8 hrs.
Is anyone else going? If so, call me on my mobile on 018 17
1986.

We will be the unkempt people on ‘hell corner’.
To those who may get this event on TV, we will hold up our
JAG signs.

See ya.

From: pbrown@sbnsw.com.au
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 96 16:41:59 +60000
Subject: re: The big road trip

Hey Peter,
I know you’re not going at sprint speeds but the race isn’t till Sunday. What
will you do, or for the
benefit of people who haven’t been there, what can you do in Bathurst for
three days?
What was the year the XJS won (I seem to remember it did once).
Have fun and watch out for the pigs in space (police helicopters).
Peter Brown

From: johngeo@senet.com.au (John Geovanovich)
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 20:36:14 +0930
Subject: new member

Hi All,
I am a new member to your group and I have the Jag bug having a
Series 2 since 1984 then a XJS since 1988 and lastly a early model S1, both
S1 and S2 are 4.2 litre cars, due to work commitments I do not get to drive
the as often as I would like as to me they are a real drivers car, I still
get a buzz driving them especially on our freeways.
I look forward to being part of the Jag-lovers group and hope that I can
learn from you and also help others in the group.

                            Regards,
                                    John Geovanovich.

From: “Dan Golder” dan_golder@sdm.buffalo.edu
Date: 1 Oct 1996 08:00:27 -0400
Subject: SIII XJ6 Noises

I have a 1985 SIII XJ6 VDP…

On colder mornings (50 degrees) after a day or two of sitting, my Jag makes a
strange “clicking” noise upon startup.

It grows progressively weaker as the car warms up, but is still very slightly
discernable even after 5 minutes of running or so…

It is best described as a light clicking or tapping noise, and is noticeable
only from the passenger compartment, with the doors shut. The noise from
opening the engine bay drowns out any chance of hearing the noise from outside
the car.

Seems to be coming from the front of the car, but I could be mistaken.

It does not seem to be related to engine speed, nor position of the
transmission (park is the same as drive). It is again, most discernable when
the car is cold, with a “tic-tic-tic-tic” sound, maybe 150-200 tics per
minute.

It only occurs when the car is running. If ignition is on (key turned) but the
engine is off, it does not occur (seeming to rule out an electric fuel pump,
which is the closest “normal” car noise to this sound that I’ve heard).

I have run out of ideas, and I’m wondering:

What is it?
Is this a common, Jag specific problem?
Is it anything to worry about?
Has it happened to anyone else?
What’s the fix?

Any help would be appreciated. If possible, and email response would be
preferred, as I sometimes have precious little time to read the posts. Thanks.

Dan_Golder@sdm.buffalo.edu

From: Jack Fulford fulford@gte.com
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 07:46:02 -0500
Subject: RE: Aluminum Polish

Greetings:
I have been using “Mother’s” brand aluminum polish on my Jag. It works =
great!! Be prepared to use a little elbow grease but the results are =
worth it. I bought it for $3.00US at the local TRAK Auto (a large chain =
of car parts stores).

Jack Fulford
67 E-Type
Dallas, TX

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 08:51:50 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: aluminum polish

LLoyd: Try a product called Never Dull,(I might have spelled it wrong),I
think I found it a a Pep Boys or Autozone, or sum such store like that.
If you can not find it drop by you local fire station as them what they
use to clean and polish their A with.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212 USA 803 798 3044
803 798 4512 FAXOn
Mon, 30 Sep 1996, LLoyd wrote:

The very thought of bringing up the “A” word again has me in a tizzie, but
I got a question. What can I use to clean/polish aluminum? I tried chrome
polish, but it laughed at me.
I’m talking about the aluminum ribs on top of the 4.2 tappet covers.
The aluminum under the hood is the last skuzzie looking thing there, but I’m
stumped as to how to get it clean looking.

LLoyd

From: Michael Powers/TEIR/Thomson Michael_Powers@teir.com
Date: 1 Oct 96 9:28:01
Subject: Re: XJ40: NO ABS LIGHT

Never noticed this until others complained about the faulty relay in
the boot making “FAILURE” light up.
I, too, have seen my VCM ABS light up on occasion. Could I get more details
about this relay? Where in the boot is it located?

Thanks,
Mike

cobac @ ix.netcom.com

09/30/96 04:03 PM
To: jag-lovers @ sn.no @ Internet
cc:
Subject: XJ40: NO ABS LIGHT

Hi all,
Noticed something on my 1989 XJ40 which may actually be a blessing
My ANTI-LOCK FAILURE! lamp has NEVER lighten up. I checked some wiring,
particulary under the dash, and can’t see any visble wire tampering (pulled
apart the harness, and it didn’t light then either!). Some want to disable
this lamp, I guess the PO found out how to! Any suggestions why the lamp
isn’t working? Any idea what to check?
Never noticed this until others complained about the faulty relay in
the boot making “FAILURE” light up.

Thanks a lot for any suggestions!
cobac@ix.netcom.com

From: SNUU46A@prodigy.com (MR PAUL R MARTIN)
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 09:34:00, -0500
Subject: 1994 Vanden Plas

I need instructions on replacing a spent passenger side air bag. It
is not electricaly controled. Is there
a safty? I have the new one in hand but will not try this with out
some instruction. Thanks Paul

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #393

Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4)
id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Tue, 1 Oct 1996 18:21:55 +0200 (MET DST)
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 18:21:55 +0200 (MET DST)
Message-Id: 199610011621.SAA05584@ekeberg.sn.no
X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f
From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #394
Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Precedence: bulk
X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest

jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 1 October 1996 Volume 02 : Number 394

Jaguar Suppliers (posted monthly)
Re: Alternators and Dynamos
RE: Aluminum Polish
Re: aluminum polish
Re: XJ40: NO ABS LIGHT
Local Shops and Dealers
V12 stumbling - answer
I’m new

From: jjoy@risc.sps.mot.com
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 09:00:02 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Jaguar Suppliers (posted monthly)

Suppliers, North America (mostly).

[This list is automatically sent out on the first of each month.]

Updates:
none

(Corrections, etc, to: jjoy@risc.sps.mot.com)

The majority of this list has come from Rob Reilly reilly@admail.fnal.gov

   SUPPLIERS OF JAGUAR PARTS AND SERVICES               Rev. 8-1-96

A D Motor Rebuilding, NY 1-516-395-5101
Lucas, Smith’s motors rebuilt

Al Hogan’s Autojumble Mansfield, Ohio 1-419-524-1088
NOS parts supplier

Specializes in buying out old dealer stock. Owner (Al) is knowledgeable
about british car parts.

-Steve DuChene s0017210@cc.ysu.edu

Dick Ames, 608 Ft. Williams Pkwy, Alexandria, VA 22304 1-703-370-3097
stainless exhaust systems

Best price on stainless steel exhaust systems. I’ve misplaced the
address but can probably look it up if pressed.

-PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)

Ancient Car Parts, 64 N Main, Lyndonville, NY 14098 1-716-765-2894
rust repair panels for XJ

Apple Hydraulics, 715 Route 25A, Miller Place, NY 11764 1-800-882-7753
rebuilds Armstrong, Girling shocks, SU carbs 1-516-744-9627

Asom Electric, 1204 McClellan Dr., Los Angeles, CA 90025 1-310-820-3720
email: asomelect@aol.com 1-800-424-2766

Electrical rebuilding shop that deals mostly in Lucas and Bosch and
rebuild starters, alternators, generators, fuel pumps, voltage regulators,
wiper and window motors. They have a large supply of Lucas parts,
including discontinued items. In business for 36 years, have daily UPS,
and accept credit cards.

Atlantic Enterprises, Route 4, Box 394-B, Loris, SC 29569 1-803-756-7565
steering racks, seal kits, polyurethane rack mounts

Auto Interiors of Europe, 1790 E McFadden, Unit 107 1-800-533-2886
interiors Santa Ana, CA 92705

(not sure which addr. is correct)
3023 S. Orange Ave.
Santa Ana, CA 92707
(714) 751-9046
Nice stuff if I remember correctly. Not cheap but nothing for these
beasts is.

- s912!rick@bnf.com (Rick Ezneker)

Kent Bain, 1785 Barnum Ave, Stratford, CT 06497 1-203-377-6745
custom interiors, seat rebuilding and repadding

G.W.Bartlett, Muncie, Ind. 1-800-338-8034
interior and trim parts

Sells original Jaguar Interior kits and components. All to exact Jaguar
specifications. As per original spec. Quite costly but isn’t quality
always a bit more? (eg. Interior kit for Jag 3.8s is about $4200, retail.)

- zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay)

Basset’s, Wyoming, R.I. 1-401-539-3010
restoration parts

Borla Industries, Oxnard, Calif. 1-805-983-7300
stainless exhaust

British Auto Center, 2938 SW Avalon Way, Seattle, WA 98126 206-935-0873

Lots of late model stuff, new and used. Very knowledgeable. Can
sometimes be grumpy. – Greg Meboe (meboe@wsunix.wsu.edu)

British Auto USA, 92 Londonderry Trnpk, 1-603-622-1050
British Auto USA Interiors Manchester, NH 03104 1-800-4-JAGPTS
interior and trim parts 1-800-452-4787

Exc. inventory of interiors and body parts. Limited inventory of
mechanical parts but I always check them out because they’re cheaper!
(I avoid Bartlets for Jag interiors)

-PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)

British Car Parts, CA 1-818-788-7636
new and used parts

British Marque Auto PO Box 344, Bainbridge, PA 17502 1-717-426-2675
interiors

British Motor Service, 521 W. Katella, Orange, CA 92667 1-714-997-3800
Moss distributor, used XK parts

British Parts Northwest, 4105 SE Lafayette Hwy, 1-503-864-2001
new parts for late models, no sheet metal Dayton, OR 97114

British Restoration Parts, Kansas City, Mo. 1-800-821-3767
new restoration parts

British Spares, 46 Florence, Springfield, MA 01105 1-413-736-0463
fabricates panels for XK, Marks, E

British Vintages, 645-D Tank Farm Rd, 1-800-350-JAGS
San Luis Obispo, CA 93401 1-805-541-5986

Have their catalog but so far never used them.

-PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)

British Wire Wheel, 1650 Mansfield St, 1-408-479-4495
Santa Cruz, CA 95062
Dayton and Dunlop wire wheels, tires

THE place to go for correct reconditioning of your JagWires. Also to
buy THE correct tires.

-PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)

Bob Brosen, 7804 Billington Court, Oxen Hill, MD 20744 1-301-248-6327
new repro parts for pre-war, Mark IV, V

Classic Parts & Panels, Ltd. 0296 658938
Fleet Marston Farm, Bicester Rd., Nr Waddesdon
Aylesbury, Bucks, UK HD 18 ODZ XK panels

Classic Restoration Parts, Bellflower, Ca. 1-213-804-2756
XK grilles, gas tanks

Classic Tube 1-716-759-1800
A Division of Classic & Performance Specialists
80 Rotech Drive
Lancaster, NY 14086 USA

They supply steel and stainless steel pre-bent brake and fuel lines for
various makes of cars. I got half the brake lines and clutch lines
from them in stainless, and being the prudish restoration junkie I am,
I was concerned that the reproduction in stainless would not be very
“original”. However, I’m happy to say the final product is almost
identical to the original steel lines, most judges will not notice the
difference. – Mark Roberts (markdr@bnr.ca)

Concourse West, 644 Terminal Way, Costa Mesa CA 92627 714-642-9807
fax 714-645-8388

Have rebuilt diffs.

-PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)

Cordell R. Newby, 1410 N. Aurora, East Wenatchee, WA 98801 509-884-6823
Specializes in Mark V parts. New and used.

- s912!rick@bnf.com (Rick Ezneker)

Coshman Ent, PO Box 2685-J, Orcutt, CA 93455 1-805-937-7456
Whitworth tools, taps & dies, gauges, fasteners

Coventry Engineering, 9500 SW Martha St, Tigard, OR 97224 1-503-620-9482
wiring harnesses

Coventry S Ltd, 6406 85th Place, New Carrolton, MD 20784 1-800-537-4146
stainless exhaust systems

Joe Curto, 230-22 58th Ave. Bayside, NY 11364 1-718-465-4829
S.U. parts

Wes Czech, HCR 9550, Lucerne Valley, CA 92356 1-619-248-9603
XK parts

Stanley Daniel, 124 Parkview Rd. Cheltenham, PA 19012 1-215-782-1248
used Mark 7-9 parts from 30 cars, call after 9PM EST

Doctor Jaguar, 644 W 17th St, Costa Mesa, CA 92627 1-714-646-2816
parts, engines, trans, susp. parts

East Coast Jag Parts DE 1-302-731-7200

EJAG NEWS, Box J, Carlisle, Mass 01741 magazine, a few accessories

Engel Imports, Kalamazoo, Mich. 1-800-253-4080
new car dealer, will UPS, cheaper than other dealers

European Auto Specialists, 1-313-355-2730
OEM parts for late models

John Farrel, 4315 Murray St., Flushing, NY 11355 1-718-762-9071
NOS XK parts

Foreign Car Center, 1610 S Main, Milpitas, CA 95035 1-408-262-0325
used parts recycler

Grand Turisimo Jaguar 1-216-259-5656
4285 Main Street fax: 1-216-259-5588
Perry Village, OH 44081
engine rebuilder, parts
Specializing in high performance parts and services. They list a
‘level 5’ Jaguar V12 with all of the whistles and bells like porting,
balancing, etc. with 6, count them, 6 two bbl Weber carbs mounted
vertically across the top of the V12! This engine sells for about
$13,500. - zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay)

Gunson Ltd., Pudding Mill Lane, London E15 2PJ
UK source for ColourTune

Tony Handler’s Foreign Parts Connection 1-213-473-7773
2028 Cotner Ave, Westwood, CA 90025

H.D. Rogers & Sons 1-318-742-3651
3418 Barksdale Blvd. fax: 1-318-742-5044
Bossier City, LA 71112
email: hdrsons@iamerican.net

Family-owned business supplying used, NOS, discontinued parts as well as
enhancements for newer cars. For example, they offer aftermarket a/c
hoses for XJ series and a less expensive amplifier. They try to give
special rates to internet users. They also have contracts worldwide
and will try to locate hard to find items, and offer special prices for
prepaid orders from overseas.

Harry CA 1-408-262-0235
used parts

H.P. Co., 1079 Colonial Club Dr, Harahan, LA 70123 1-504-737-4691
burled walnut dashboards

I-35 Imports Oklahoma 1-405-799-2886
used parts, 80 and older

Intermarque Auto Parts Houston 1-800-666-8700
parts and sheet metal

International Spare Parts 1-800-243-0073

J.K.Restorations, 12 Jackson, Oswego, IL 1-708-554-2120
complete restorations, specialist for XK and E, some used parts

Jag Atlanta, 3437 Sexton Woods Dr, Chamblee, GA 30341 1-800-533-8973
new, used parts for E and XJ 1-404-455-0175

Jaggist (Alan Trickel) 1065 Hillview, Ashland, OR 97520 1-503-535-8486
used XK parts

Jaguar Cars Inc, Public Relations, Mahwah NJ 1-201-818-9770
For a fee will authenticate your VIDNs.

-PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)

Jaguar Denver 1-800-426-4515
Lucas, Girling, Jag parts

Jaguar Heaven, 1433 Tillie Lewis Dr, Stockton, CA 95206-1130
info: 1-209-942-4524, orders: 1-800-969-4524, FAX: 1-209-942-3670
used parts recycler, all models

Jaguar Interiors of England, PO Box 47, Muncie, IN 47308 1-317-289-9901
carpeting and upholstery

Jaguar Motor Works, 3701 Longview Dr, Atlanta, GA 30341 1-800-331-2193
used XJ parts recycler, rebuilt parts Local 404-451-3839
FAX-404-451-7561

Jaguar of North America, Leonia, NJ 1-201-592-5200
factory American distributor

Jaguar South Greenville, SC 1-803-244-1555, 1-803-292-3934
used parts recycler

Jaguar parts SC 1-803-754-5363

Jaguar Warehouse, 6010 Mardale Lane, Burke, VA 22015 1-703-451-4071
NOS parts

Jaguar Warehouse, 5727 Walcott Ave, Fairfax, VA 22030 1-703-968-3983
XK parts

J C Whitney, Chicago, IL 312-431-6102

Also known as Warshawsky/Whitney. Sells car parts cheap for most cars
including LBCs. Massive buying power. Brainless order-takers. You
can call in the middle of the night for good long-distance rates. They
will not tell you brand names. All the swaybars are ADDCO. See also
ADDCO and Werace. - ?

J.C. Whitney offers a few items that are of interest. Things like generic
weatherstrip by the foot, etc. The do offer after market A/C units and
high output quartz halogen 7 inch headlights (110 watts!!!). The ad
carries the label ‘Not legal for street use.’ They look really cool.

- zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay)

John’s Cars, 800 Jaguar Lane, Dallas, TX 75226 1-214-426-4100
fax: 1-214-426-3116
V-8 conversions, other repro parts, claims improvements over stock

Just Jags, 407 Industrial Dr, Carmel, IN 46032 1-317-844-8823
new, used parts, service, restorations

Just Jags, 8720 Big Bend at Elm, St.Louis, MO 63119 1-314-968-2450
service, parts, restoration shop

Keller Associates, PO Box 2833, Saratoga, CA 95070 1-408-370-3705
burl walnut dashboards

Lister of North Am, 1912 Granvill Av, Muncie, IN 47308 1-800-338-8034
high performance accessories

Lovello, Mark SC 1-803-244-1555
used parts

Moss Motors, PO Box MG, 7200 Hollister Av, Goleta, CA 93116 800-235-6954
new and repro parts for XK’s

Moss Motors, Santa Barbara, California 1-805-963-0741
new car dealer

Cordell Newby, 1625 N Western, East Wenatchee, WA 98801 1-509-662-7748
new, used, repro parts for pre-war, Mark IV, V

added: Jul. 29, 1994
Nisonger Instrument Sales & Service 1-914-381-1952
570 Mamaroneck Ave. fax: 1-914-381-1953
Mamaroneck, NY 10543
Repairs capillary based guages.
“I had them repair my water temp gauge 2 months ago. Charge was $100 including
shipping, turnaround time was 2 weeks, and they take plastic.” Rob Reilly

Northwest Modern Classics, 121 Duryea, Raymond, WA 98577
interiors, carpets, upholstery, tops 1-800-854-1751,1-206-942-5532

Northwest Transmission Parts, Ohio 1-513-442-2811 or 1-800-327-1955
auto trans rebuilding kits, torque convertors

Peninsula Imports, 3749 Harlem Rd, Buffalo, NY 14215 1-800-999-1209
XJ, E body and rust repair panels 1-716-833-3000

Fred Petroske, RR1, Box 112, Chaumont, NY 13622 1-315-649-2861
used parts recycler, all models

Paul K. Phillips 1-305-846-7976
1124 N. W. 134 Ave. fax: 1-305-846-9450
Sunrise, FL 33323
Specializes in the XJ Coupe market and runs an XJC register.
“I have dealt with him once on an exhaust system (via a referral from
SICP) and got good service. He does require cash C.O.D. (no credit cards)
which is a bit of a bother.” - gladish@suite.com (Brian Gladish)

Phil’s, Inc. Ashland Ave, Evanston, IL 1-708-869-2434

PII Distributing, PO Box 27358, Houston, TX 77227-7358 1-800-231-5836
genuine Jaguar parts, sheet metal 1-713-975-6272

Chuck Pilate, 24996 W Magdalena Dr, Mt Clemens, MI 48045
XK, E parts 1-313-791-0429

Rich’s Import Auto Parts & Serv, 730 N Glebe Rd, Arlington, VA 22203
parts for E, XJ and 62 on sedans 1-800-336-6603, 1-703-522-0440

Rhino Auto Parts, Hanover, MN 1-612-498-8711
used and NOS parts 50’s to 70’s

Rhode Island Wiring Service, Box 3737H, Peace Dale, RI 02883
wiring harnesses 1-401-789-1955

Martin Robey Panels, Pool Rd, Camp Hill 011-44-203-386-903
Industrial Estate, Nuneaton, Warks CV10 9AE England

Rodney, 2035 Cornell St, Sarasota, FL 33577 1-813-955-5960
used parts recycler

SCJ, 3 Elizabeth Ave, Burlington, MA 01803
NOS parts, pre-war to 61

Samplex, 30 Parkview Dr, Succasunna, NJ 07876 201-584-9370
US source for ColourTune

Special Interest Car Parts, 1340 Hartford Ave, Johnston, RI 02919
voice: 1-800-556-7496, 1-800-851-5600, 1-401-831-8850
fax: 1-800-672-SICP(1-800-672-7427), 1-401-831-7760
We have parts for your Jaguar, MG, Healey, TR. Good prices. Superb
catalog. Parts from XK120 through XJ40 including e-types. Will often
meet or beat prices from competitors.

S&S Specialties, 108 Sation St, Cumming, IA 50061 1-515-981-9148
NOS, rebuilt and used parts for XK, Mk and E, sheet metal parts

Stainless Steel Muffler Corp, 3032 Genesee St, Buffalo, NY 14225
stainless exhaust systems 1-716-893-2116

Terry’s Jaguar Parts, 117 E Smith St, Benton, IL 62812 1-800-851-9438
new and used parts for later models 1-618-439-4444

Bill Tracy, Sarasota, Florida 1-813-924-9523
new and repro parts for XK’s

Trans Ocean, Dept PDH, 390 Olive Tree Lane, Sierra Madre, CA 91024
Lucas parts jobber, '30 to '76 British cars

Welsh Jaguar Enterprises, Steubenville, Ohio 1-800-875-5247
new and repro parts for XK’s and newer 1-614-282-8649
fax: 1-614-282-1913
Catalogue available. (free)

The best prices for Jaguar parts that I have found.

- zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay)

Exc. inventory of parts, new and used. Can offer helpful technical advice.

-PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)

Ed West, 1941H Jan Marie Place, Tustin, CA 92680 1-714-832-2688
new, used, repro parts for earlier Jags

Ed west has lots of intresting stuff at very resonable prices and lots
of advice. – m_skogs@ix.netcom.com (Matthew Skosberg)

White Post Restorations, White Post, VA 22663 1-703-837-1140
restorations, brake and clutch cylinders resleeved

XK’s Unlimited, 850 Fiero Lane, San Luis Obispo, CA 93401 1-805-544-7864
new and repro parts for XK’s 1-800-444-JAGS
In CA: 805-544-7864 FAX: 805-544-1664

catalog available. ($6.00, refundable first order)
“Parts & Service for all model Jaguars from 1948 on” XK’s Unlimited is
a good place to send Girling calipers for for piston bore sleeving. -?

XK’s Unlimited is good, but is a bit higher than Welch Jaguar. They
are also committed to “correct” parts. Additionally, you can call them
without a part number. Just be sure that they tell you what is
included in the replacement part. - zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O.
Lindsay)

Good inventory and advice, but pricey. Nice catalogue. Has a
restoration shop sleeving brake cylinders in stainless.

-PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)

XKSS Interiors, Thousand Oaks, CA 91359 1-800-922-XKSS, 1-805-482-4682
interior and trim parts

Vicarage Jaguar 1-305-444-8759
% Gables Cats fax: 1-305-443-6443
220 Granello Avenue
Coral Gables, FL 33146
vicarage@ix.netcom.com (alt. vicarage@paradise.net)
http://paradise.net/vicarage

Vicarage says: If one is in need of specialized or hard to find parts
we will have them. In addition we do offer the unique Vicarage
upgrades and enhancement products for all post war Jaguars.

Zimmer, Bob 2675 Stoney Brook Rd, Orchard Park, NY 14127 1-716-652-7909
XK parts

From: Robert Bradley Robert.Bradley@bh.eyi.com
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 09:45:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Alternators and Dynamos

A very simple minded question. What’s the difference between an
alternator and a dynamo? Is one American and the other English for
the same thing, or is there some kind of a distinction?

I’m sure someone else can give a better explanation but just in case they don’t
I’ll give it a try.

No they are not the same thing.

Simple explanation - the alternator is the new technology which is more robust
and generates higher currents (35 amps at least with 50 or 55 not uncommon).
The good dynamo/generators peaked out at about 22 amps.

There are two major differences - which part spins and how the AC is converted
to DC.

A dynamo (AKA generator) has coils of wire (several sets of them I think, say
10 to 15) spinning inside fixed magnets (fixed to the dynamo housing). It uses
the comutator on the end of the spinning shaft to smooth what starts out as an
AC current from the coils. The comutator is the terminals for each end of the
10-15 coils of wire arranged in a cylinder around the spinning shaft. The two
terminals for each coil are on opposite sides of the comutator so that they
contact the two carbon “brushes” at the same time thereby completing a circuit
and allowing the transfer of the current from that coil. This is how the
comutator is used to convert the AC current being created in each coil, as it
spins inside the magnetic field, into a continuous DC output. There is a
regulator involved in the process also but one thing at a time.

The Alternator has the components reversed and spins the magnets inside (1 or 2
I think) coils fixed to the case of the alternator. It is so called because it
produces ALERNATING CURRENT (AC). This AC is converted to the required DC by
a diode rectifier which is usually built in to the alternator. There is also a
regulator involved in this situation which may or may not be incorporated into
the alternator.

Corrections/additions anyone?

Any Questions?

Robert Bradley
82 XJ6, 82 Daimler, 87 XJ-S

From: hdrsons@iamerica.net (Hal Rogers)
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 1996 10:24:25 -0600
Subject: RE: Aluminum Polish

At 07:46 AM 10/1/96 -0500, Jack Fulford wrote:

Greetings:
I have been using “Mother’s” brand aluminum polish on my Jag. It works
great!! Be prepared to use a little elbow grease but the results are worth
it. I bought it for $3.00US at the local TRAK Auto (a large chain of car
parts stores).

Jack Fulford
67 E-Type
Dallas, TX

Yes TRAK does carry it. But if anyone has trouble finding Mothers Aluminum
Polish, let me know. I have both the small and large sizes…about $3 and $6
per can.

Best Regards,
Hal

Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
Import Auto Specialists
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax

Serving Auto Enthusiasts since 1959

From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 11:20:03 -0400
Subject: Re: aluminum polish

On Sep 30, 1:58pm, LLoyd wrote:

Subject: aluminum polish
The very thought of bringing up the “A” word again has me in a tizzie, but
I got a question. What can I use to clean/polish aluminum? I tried chrome
polish, but it laughed at me.
I’m talking about the aluminum ribs on top of the 4.2 tappet covers.
The aluminum under the hood is the last skuzzie looking thing there, but I’m
stumped as to how to get it clean looking.

I like Flitz polish best.

Mark McChesney

From: hdrsons@iamerica.net (Hal Rogers)
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 1996 10:28:58 -0600
Subject: Re: XJ40: NO ABS LIGHT

At 09:28 AM 10/1/96, Michael Powers/TEIR/Thomson wrote:

Never noticed this until others complained about the faulty relay in
the boot making “FAILURE” light up.
I, too, have seen my VCM ABS light up on occasion. Could I get more details
about this relay? Where in the boot is it located?

Thanks,
Mike

The relay is greyish in color. Jag part number DBC4282. I sell them as
original for a little less than Jaguar pricing at $45.00 should anyone be
interested. I do not get a big margin on them because Hella the manufacturer
can only sell them through Jaguar at this time. So I buy them from England
as directly as possible.

Best Regards,
Hal

Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
Import Auto Specialists
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax

Serving Auto Enthusiasts since 1959

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 12:16:28 -0005
Subject: Local Shops and Dealers

So soon after the creation of the Jaguar/Daimler Parts site may not
be a good time to mention this, but I have another idea for a helpful
use of the WWW.

What I think would be helpful would be an online listing of the
various local shops that do Jaguar or Jaguar-related work –
including dealers. Basically, someone with a need to know could
access the site, select the country he’s interested in, then the
state, then the local area, and finally be given a list of the
various shops in that area. Optional: he might also be able to bring
up a collection of comments regarding a selected shop.

I consider this to be a separate idea from the suppliers list or
the list of sources in my XJ-S book. For the most part, I try to
list only sources of interest to XJ-S owners everywhere (mail-order
places, etc.), and avoid listing individual dealers or shops
generally of interest only to locals. Such a site could fill that
void.

Establishment of such a site requires somebody to set it up, but the
input should be easy: each of us can send info on the shops in our
area. Even info copied out of the phone book would suffice, if
nothing else is known. Comments could be added later, if someone has
a pleasant (or otherwise) experience with the shop.

There seem to be a lot of people who post questions to this group
trying to find a decent shop in their area. Also, those who travel
in their Jags might wanna check out the availability of repair sites
along their route – or, if they are connected via a laptop with
cellular modem, they could find the nearest site AFTER they break
down.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: p.hyslop@utoronto.ca (p.hyslop)
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 12:14:13 -0400
Subject: V12 stumbling - answer

    Last week I posted a message asking for advice concerning

intermittent loss of power and rough running (as if the engine was running
out of gas or loosing ignition). I received several helpful replies.

    The correct answer appears to be one partially suggested by Kirby

Palm …i.e. partial blockage of the fuel pick-up filter inside the gas
tank. In the 74 V12 E-type (but not in the XJ-S wher the filter seems to be
right on the end/inside the fuel pick-up line) the fuel pick-up hose has a
1.5 inch by 0.5 inch tubular fine mesh filter which fits loosely over the
distal 1.25 inches of the fuel pick-up line (see diagram below). This
filter and the distal end of the fuel pick-up line both hang into a small
bowl made by the fuel tank drain plug (see diagram below).

    In a perfect world of scrupulously clean gas pumps, this is

obviously a great way to get that last droplet of gas from the tank and
minimize the effects of surges during acceleration/decelaration/cornering.

    Equally obvious, in the real world of not so careful gasoline

dealers content to pump the sludge from the bottom of their empty tanks and
sell it to you as “premium”, it’s a very quick way to fill the pick-up bowl
with detritus. This crap then gets sucked onto the filter and blocks it up
during constant high fuel flow rates (~3500 rpm x 1 hr) … causing fuel
starvation and the symptoms I noticed. When you switch the engine off for a
minute, the suction is released, the crap falls off, and the engine then
runs fine again until the cycle repeats itself …etc etc… until you burn
out the electric fuel pump … fortunately I have found the problem in time
(I hope).

    Although my Jaguar service manual does not mention periodic

clean-out of the fuel drain plug/fuel pick-up resevoir, it is obvious from
the construction that this is a service/maintenance item (the filter is
loosely fitted over the fuel pick-up line and can be easily removed,
cleaned and replaced through the fuel drain plug apperture).

    My recommendation - clean out the fuel tank drain-plug/fuel

resevoir once a year whether it needs it or not…but I’m probably
re-inventing the wheel here.

      | | <================== Fuel pick-up pipe and
      | |                     plastic mesh filter          INSIDE

------ || || -------------------------------------------------
\\\| |:: |\\\\ <===== Fuel Tank base \\\\\\\\\
—\| |:: |\----------------------------------------------
|\| |:: |\| OUTSIDE
|\| |:: |\|
|\| |:: |\|
|\| |:: |\| <===== screw-in fuel tank
|\| ----- |\| drain plug/fuel pick-up
|\| |\| resevoir
\\\\\\\\/

Peter

74 XKE-V12 Roadster

From: hached01@bh.bbc.co.uk (Dieter Hachenberg)
Date: 01 Oct 96 17:15:55 GMT
Subject: I’m new

Hi,

I’ve recently subscribed to the list and have followed the discussions
with much interest. I don’t currently own a Jag, but am looking for a
series 3 XJ6 Sovereign. If anyone knows of an '85/86 for sale, in the
South of England, I’d be interested to hear.

Also, if anyones got any tips on what I should be looking out for, rust
spots, mechanical flaws etc, I’d appreciate any info, before I blow my
entire bank balance on repairs.

Look forward to hearing from you

Dieter Hachenberg

Hopefully soon - XJ6 S111

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #394

X-UIDL: 117b88a6400122046852ca7525cef64f
Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4)
id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Wed, 2 Oct 1996 04:38:20 +0200 (MET DST)
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 04:38:20 +0200 (MET DST)
Message-Id: 199610020238.EAA21187@ekeberg.sn.no
X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f
From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #395
Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Precedence: bulk
Status: RO
X-Status:
X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest

jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 2 October 1996 Volume 02 : Number 395

Valve cover polishing
XJ40 - Brake accumulator
Re: Local Shops and Dealers
Valve cover polishing
Re: XJ40 vs. Series III
XJ40 - ABS CLUNK!
XK8 seen
V12 stumbling - answer
Re: V12 stumbling - answer
Re: Valve cover polishing
Re: aluminum polish
Re[2]: Alternators and Dynamos
XJS V12 radiator flush
Re: aluminum polish
Power window conversion
Re: Replace the ECU as preventative maintenance?
Re: Ignition Amplifier
Re: aluminum polish

From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 96 09:39:00 PDT
Subject: Valve cover polishing

LLoyd,

Lee has it right - use Mothers Mag wheel polish. If you want to really
sharpen up those Al-You-Min-E-Um valve cover ribs, use the finest grade
emery paper with a very sturdy sanding block (like a block of wood),
finish up with the polish.

Having said this, what’s the best paint to re-paint the black parts of
those valve covers?

David
'84XJ6 VDP - The Mighty Jag
'70XKE 2+2 - Little Jag

From: Michael Powers/TEIR/Thomson Michael_Powers@teir.com
Date: 1 Oct 96 14:37:09
Subject: XJ40 - Brake accumulator

After running several tests from Michael Neil’s excellent post on brake
troubleshooting,
I believe I need to replace the brake accumulator (this was due to the
intermittent “low brake
pressure” light on the VCM). Several replies that I received seemed to
indicate that there had been some good posts on how to do this.

So if anyone has previous posts on:

Where the accumulator is located
How to replace
What else is required

Please post’em!

Many thanks,
Mike
/-----------------------------------------------------------------
| mpowers@teir.com
| (703) 736-1832
|
| On my block, a lot of people walk their dogs and I always see them
| walking along with their little poop bags. This, to me, is the lowest
| activity in human life. Following a dog with a little scooper.
| Waiting for him to go so you can walk down the street with
| it in your bag. If aliens are watching this through telescopes,
| they’re going to think the dogs are the leaders of the planet.
| If you see two life forms, one of them’s making a poop, the
| other one’s carrying it for him, who would you assume is in charge?
| -Jerry Seinfeld
*-------------------------------------------------------------------*/

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 14:53:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Local Shops and Dealers

Good idea, Kirby.

John

On Tue, 1 Oct 1996, Kirbert wrote:

What I think would be helpful would be an online listing of the
various local shops that do Jaguar or Jaguar-related work –
including dealers. Basically, someone with a need to know could
access the site, select the country he’s interested in, then the
state, then the local area, and finally be given a list of the
various shops in that area. Optional: he might also be able to bring
up a collection of comments regarding a selected shop.

From: David J Shield David_J_Shield�m.fm.intel.com@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 96 09:39:00 PDT
Subject: Valve cover polishing

David asks;

<Having said this, what’s the best paint to re-paint the black parts of
<those valve covers?

Clean them thouroughly and rough them slightly with some steel wool. Then
smear some vasoline over the parts you don’t want to get paint on. Spray
with some semi-gloss black. When dry, wipe the vasoline off the shiny
all-you-mini-ummmmmm part.
Lloyd - what was it that vasoline used to advertise itself as, "the
family something?? -

From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 96 12:41:36 PDT
Subject: Re: XJ40 vs. Series III

You asked some very difficult questions. Here’s how I would put it:

The XJ40 is newer than a SIII, and is more durable, thus it would
ride better than a half-worn SIII. Many SIII’s need new steering rack
bushings, front end rebuild, rear end work, new shocks, and new bushings
throughout by about 80k miles (Jag techs please correct me if I’m wrong).
Why is that? Because usually the old rubber has hardened or worn. Even if
it’s not quite time for repair, the ride would have deteriorated.
If the SIII were new, I’d say it probably rides better due to the
superior rear suspension. I suspect Jag moved the brakes outward on
the XJ40 due to easier service and greater reliability.
Any car can be made to run forever (well, maybe except for some Italian
stuff…) if you keep replacing worn items. I think a better question is,
what would I have to do to keep up with the car? I would say generally
you would have to do less to a XJ40. I’ve seen many in the local for-sale
ads that have run over 120K miles already, even the least reliable 88 models. XJ40's have superior ZF transmissions that last longer than the BW units in SIII's. The AJ6 engine in XJ40's don't blow head gaskets at 100K miles like many SIII's do, and it doesn't need a stake- down kit. Electrics (post 90 models) are more reliable. The paint
doesn’t crack like SIII’s. Even the leather interior is more durable.
Leather and wood, in my opinion, only look good if they’re not in a shabby
state.

Having said all this, if you love the SIII, by all means get it, and
pamper it a bit. Don’t get something you don’t like. I’m just trying
to show you some practical concerns. I think the best “window” to buy
the series III was around 1990, when you could pick them up fairly
new at still reasonable prices. Now you have to be more patient and
look for a good one.

Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD

From: cobac@ix.netcom.com
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 12:52:45 -0700
Subject: XJ40 - ABS CLUNK!

Hi all,
Also have another brake problem now. Installed new brake rotors and
pads (all dealer), and the ABS system clunks all the time, well, only when
slowing down. Even a gradual slowing down, not attempting a wheel-lock or
anything! My passengers and I have a neck ache from this problem!
Scenario: Low pressure light on for about 9 seconds in morning only.
Rear struts are now non-leveling dealer package
Brakes clunk!
According to the tests it may be the charge solenoid (the low pressure),
because the reservoir may sometimes overflow with green oil (back-flow, not
seating?)

Where is this charge switch/solenoid thing, if it’s still applicable to a
non-leveling car?

Thanks for any insight or experiences!
Eric
cobac@ix.netcom.com

From: Gregory Andrachuk MGB@UVVM.UVIC.CA
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 96 13:30:05 PDT
Subject: XK8 seen

Last night I attended the Canadian premiere of the XK8 in Victoria,
British Columbia. There were literally hundreds of people in a hotel
ballroom, and the Jags: two xk8 models in red (coupe and convertible, and
an xj6 Vanden Plas (for the first time the Vanden Plas designation in
Canada is for a six cylinder car). All and anything you wanted to drink,
courtesy of Jaguar, and a parking lot and garage FULL of Jaguars and
other high line models. The photos of the XK8 did not prepare me for
the car in the “flesh”. It is far more beautiful and better proportioned
than any photo can show, and IMHO the coupe is the winner. The fit and
finish of these cars is flawless. I have ordered one to be picked up
ten years from now!
Gregory Andrachuk

From: p.hyslop@utoronto.ca (p.hyslop)
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 18:03:38 -0400
Subject: V12 stumbling - answer

    Last week I posted a message asking for advice concerning

intermittent loss of power and rough running (as if the engine was running
out of gas or loosing ignition). I received several helpful replies.

    The correct answer appears to be one partially suggested by Kirby

Palm …i.e. partial blockage of the fuel pick-up filter inside the gas
tank. In the 74 V12 E-type (but not in the XJ-S wher the filter seems to be
right on the end/inside the fuel pick-up line) the fuel pick-up hose has a
1.5 inch by 0.5 inch tubular fine mesh filter which fits loosely over the
distal 1.25 inches of the fuel pick-up line (see diagram below). This
filter and the distal end of the fuel pick-up line both hang into a small
bowl made by the fuel tank drain plug (see diagram below).

    In a perfect world of scrupulously clean gas pumps, this is

obviously a great way to get that last droplet of gas from the tank and
minimize the effects of surges during acceleration/decelaration/cornering.

    Equally obvious, in the real world of not so careful gasoline

dealers content to pump the sludge from the bottom of their empty tanks and
sell it to you as “premium”, it’s a very quick way to fill the pick-up bowl
with detritus. This crap then gets sucked onto the filter and blocks it up
during constant high fuel flow rates (~3500 rpm x 1 hr) … causing fuel
starvation and the symptoms I noticed. When you switch the engine off for a
minute, the suction is released, the crap falls off, and the engine then
runs fine again until the cycle repeats itself …etc etc… until you burn
out the electric fuel pump … fortunately I have found the problem in time
(I hope).

    Although my Jaguar service manual does not mention periodic

clean-out of the fuel drain plug/fuel pick-up resevoir, it is obvious from
the construction that this is a service/maintenance item (the filter is
loosely fitted over the fuel pick-up line and can be easily removed,
cleaned and replaced through the fuel drain plug apperture).

    My recommendation - clean out the fuel tank drain-plug/fuel

resevoir once a year whether it needs it or not…but I’m probably
re-inventing the wheel here.

      | | <============== Fuel pick-up pipe and
      | |                 plastic mesh filter    INSIDE

------ || || ------------------------------------------
\\\| |:: |\\ <===== Fuel Tank base \\\\\\\
—\| |:: |\---------------------------------------
|\| |:: |\| OUTSIDE
|\| |:: |\|
|\| |:: |\|
|\| |:: |\| <===== screw-in fuel tank
|\| ----- |\| drain plug/fuel pick-up
|\| |\| resevoir
\\\\\\\\/

Peter

74 XKE-V12 Roadster

From: “Lee Walden” lwalden@ebmud.com
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 14:48:57 -0700
Subject: Re: V12 stumbling - answer

Peter wrote:

    The correct answer appears to be one partially suggested by Kirby
Palm …i.e. partial blockage of the fuel pick-up filter inside the gas
tank.

--------------SNIP---------------

    Although my Jaguar service manual does not mention periodic
clean-out of the fuel drain plug/fuel pick-up resevoir, it is obvious
from
the construction that this is a service/maintenance item (the filter is
loosely fitted over the fuel pick-up line and can be easily removed,

-------------SNIP------------------

      | | <================== Fuel pick-up pipe and
      | |                     plastic mesh filter          INSIDE
------ || || -------------------------------------------------
\\\| |:: |\\\\ <===== Fuel Tank base \\\\\\\\
—\| |:: |\----------------------------------------------
|\| |:: |\| OUTSIDE
|\| |:: |\|
|\| |:: |\|
|\| |:: |\| <===== screw-in fuel tank
|\| ----- |\| drain plug/fuel pick-up
|\| |\| resevoir
\\\\\\\\/
---------------

On the MARK X’s the filter is brass mesh, and it is attached to the drain plug. It also fits tightly against the fuel pickup tube. If the drain plug has never been removed, the mesh WILL TEAR off of the plug. My brother says a GRACO airless sprayer filter pickup is almost an exact match and much cheaper than the “official” Jaguar part. Lee From: “Lee Walden” lwalden@ebmud.com Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 14:51:31 -0700 Subject: Re: Valve cover polishing David wrote:

Having said this, what’s the best paint to re-paint the black parts of
those valve covers?

Mask off the ribs with masking tape and then spray the cam cover with a
nice semigloss or Crinkle black paint. Remove the masking tape and hit it
with Mother’s again. Lee

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 14:29:16 -0500
Subject: Re: aluminum polish

 I guess I could bottle some of my patented Mexican cheese dip and send 
 it to you.  Every time I make a batch the inside of the pan 
 (aluminum/aluminium or otherwise) looks like a mirror.  My wife says 
 she won't even try to eat something that can do that to metal.
 
 On a more serious note, try a Brillo pad or a Scotchbrite pad.  Both  will polish cast alumiwhatever nicely.  Far too abrasive for sheet  alumimetal, but ok for castings.  I have also used felt polishing  points in my die grinder (kind of an oversize Dremel Mototool) with  various grades of buffing compound.  If you want to try a cloth and  finger approach, Mother's makes a good alumistuff polish (or at least  they did a few years ago.) The real problem is not making it shiny, its keeping it that way!  The  A-word metal oxidized faster than you can polish it.  I've tried  various clear coatings in the past.  They look good for a while, but  soon discolor and sometimes peel from the underhood temperatures. If anyone has a solution to the problem of keeping it shiny in a high  temperature environment I'd sure like to hear it. MikeC ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: aluminum polish Author:  LLoyd <3030P@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil> at Internet Date:    9/30/1996 1:58 PM The very thought of bringing up the "A" word again has me in a tizzie, but I got a question. What can I use to clean/polish aluminum? I tried chrome  polish, but it laughed at me. I'm talking about the aluminum ribs on top of the 4.2 tappet covers. The aluminum under the hood is the last skuzzie looking thing there, but I'm  stumped as to how to get it clean looking. LLoyd From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell) Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 15:54:34 -0500 Subject: Re[2]: Alternators and Dynamos While alternators are far superior to generators in automotive  applications, especially at maintaining a constant voltage over a  fairly wide rpm range, they still will start to fall off at low rpm  under load. It's very common for a car with a heavy electrical load (e.g.  headlights, climate control, wipers, rear window heater, etc.) to fall  below the point where the alternator can keep up with the load at very  low engine rpm.  This will be aggravated if the engine is idling too  slowly.  If the alternator cannot maintain voltage at the proper  engine idle speed and the electrical load is less than the winter  worst case, I would do some diagnostics.  If the voltage regulator is  maintaining the proper voltage except for low rpm I would start by  checking the diodes in the alternator. In your specific case, does the voltage gauge come back up when you  raise the rpm to 800?  If so, and that is the correct idle, then I'd  quit worrying about the alternator and start tracking down the idle  problem. MikeC ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: RE: Alternators and Dynamos Author:  shanem@vnet.IBM.COM at Internet Date:    9/30/1996 10:43 PM eg. Dynamo:  increase engine speed = increased voltage - lights get  brighter. Alternator:  increase engine speed = increased current - no effect on  lights. Barrie Dawson Chatham, Kent England 1985 series III Sovereign Barrie, if what you say above is true, can you help me out with my current problem. I have a mitsubishi 4 wheel drive, and am having  electrical problems and idling problems. It is idling very low, and  the voltage gauge is slowly dropping down whilst at idle. Revving the  engine starts to make it climb again, and at the same time makes the headlights get brighter. Both my mechanic and auto electrician say that  the alternator/regulator are fine. I still have doubts. Is it just the fact that the car is idling at around 400 rpm as opposed to its usual 800 rpm that may be causing the problem ? Does the  alternator need enough revs to maintain the voltage level ? (If so,  then my problem is probably the computer or the injectors are probably  dirty...car has been tuned up, so plugs/fuel etc is not the problem..) Are there any other things that may be causing this charging problem ? From: Patrick Siu <patrick@idacom.hp.com> Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 17:01:41 -0600 (MDT) Subject: XJS V12 radiator flush Hi, Winter is approaching in Canada ... I tried to flush the radiator yesterday and discovered that there is no drain plug at the bottom of the radiator.  Is this the original design from Jaguar?  Any advise on the best way to drain the radiator? Any word of caution or suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance for your help. Patrick Siu 89 XJS V12 Conv. From: "Lee Walden" <lwalden@ebmud.com> Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 17:27:45 -0700 Subject: Re: aluminum polish Mike wrote:

 The real problem is not making it shiny, its keeping it that way!

The

 A-word metal oxidized faster than you can polish it.  I've tried 
 various clear coatings in the past.  They look good for a while, but

 soon discolor and sometimes peel from the underhood temperatures.

I use a “paint additive” called PENETROL. You wipe on a thin coating, and
it protects the metal from the elements. Don’t know how it holds up to
engine heat though. You could try it. I use it to protect amateur radio
antenna systems. Lee

From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 96 21:17:14 EDT
Subject: Power window conversion

From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
*** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FE21
*** INTERNET - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM *** IBMMAIL - AUIBMSPM ****
Subject: Power window conversion

Since I didn’t get any replies last time, I’ll try again.

I have a 420G, but I guess this post applies to any jag.

My car has manual wind up windows. I have 4 brand new XJ6 power
window motors and want to find out how difficult it is to add
them to the car. Anyone there who can offer advice ???

I will shop around for a nice neat set of power window switches to
put in the centre console. Anyone recommend a nice set ? I’ve seen
some mark 2’s with a power window conversion that had a nice set of
switches in a panel about 4 inches by 2 inches. Something like this
would be great.

(Hopefully someone out there can help…I’m starting to think that
the discussion on the older cars is now dwindling to zip, and people
are talking about more day to day things and about new models more
often. I’m starting to long for the usenet to get started so that these
discussions can move on to it, and the meatier stuff can get more
priority on this list…) cheers…

1970 420G - Raquel , my voluptuous mistress
1978 XJ6 - My series 2 lumpster (TPI Corvette 350 CI)

REGARDS…Shane

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 2 Oct 96 11:18:44
Subject: Re: Replace the ECU as preventative maintenance?

Roger Langley: : On an older car (above 100 000 miles) would it make
sense to forestall
problems by replacing the ECU.

No. The No. 1 cause of injection/ignition trouble is dirty and slack connectors
and broken wires. As a preventive step, clean all tubular connectors with
cotton buds and acetone and check all spade connectors for firmness; tighten
them up (carefully) with a pair of pliers as needed. The connectors behind the
dash are usually OK.

-Jan

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 2 Oct 96 11:33:24
Subject: Re: Ignition Amplifier

I’ve had a bit of a peek at my spare amplifier (date stamped 1987), to check
out this point (possible damage from broken connection to pickup coil). It
appears to be a standard capacitive discharge ignition unit. It’s difficult to
trace the circuit due to a number of unmarked and compound components, but it’s
clear that this is what the three wires to the pickup coil do:

BLACK: common earth
RED: signal from coil to bipolar transistor amplifier stage via DC-blocking
diode.
YELLOW: Small AC excitation current for pickup from oscillator coil. Little or
no DC.

The pickup coil itself is similar to that in a dynamic microphone but much
smaller. Breaking/making any of the three wires cannot cause harmful voltage
spikes.

I can only assume that the requirement to replace pickup and amplifier together
EITHER comes from the person responsible for requiring the use of Bar’s Leaks
in the coolant OR relates to the different connectors and wire colour code in
engine-mounted amplifiers as opposed to front-mounted ones.

Regards,

-Jan

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 2 Oct 96 13:15:25
Subject: Re: aluminum polish

Mike Cogswell : I guess I could bottle some of my patented Mexican
cheese dip and send
it to you. Every time I make a batch the inside of the pan
(aluminum/aluminium or otherwise) looks like a mirror. My wife says she won’t
even try to eat something that can do that to metal.

Hey, can I have the recipe?

It’s the acetic acid in the vinegar that dissolves some of the aluminium; I
remember my granny cooking up some vinegar pickles in a cast aluminium saucepan

- it sprang a leak. And aluminium ions in food are strongly implicated in
  Alzheimer’s Disease. I’ve junked all my aluminium cooking utensils (too late,
  too late - I forget why) and I’d use a glass bowl if I were you…

My favourite aluminium polish is Solvol Autosol, a German product available
world wide. It’s an abrasive/solvent mix that produces a superb finish (on
chrome, too) and also contains something that appears to leave a protective
film - possibly wax. At least, the polish job seems to last extremely well.

-Jan

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #395

Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4)
id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Wed, 2 Oct 1996 09:28:57 +0200 (MET DST)
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 09:28:57 +0200 (MET DST)
Message-Id: 199610020728.JAA24800@ekeberg.sn.no
X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f
From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #396
Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Precedence: bulk
Status: O
X-Status:
X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest

jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 2 October 1996 Volume 02 : Number 396

90 xj6 bulb failure light
Re: Alternators and Dynamos
[none]
SIII vs. XJ40
Buying a SIII
Re: XJ40 vs. Series III
Re: XJ40 - ABS CLUNK!
Ignition coil testing
XJ6 SIII Speedo Error
Re: Alternators and Dynamos
Re: XJS V12 radiator flush
Re: aluminum polish
Re: XJ6 SIII Speedo Error
Re: 90 xj6 bulb failure light
Not XJ6 III but serious SI warning - Read it
Jags at Bathurst
Re: SIII vs. XJ40
Re: SIII XJ6 Noises
Re: Ignition coil testing

From: IBVILLIN@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 23:09:38 -0400
Subject: 90 xj6 bulb failure light

we have a 90 xj6 that has a bulb failure light that comes on most times when
brakes are applied. installed all new factory bulbs in rear of vehicle and
light still comes on. also light comes on at times when you acceel. any
thoughts???

From: Paul Brand paulbr@atiaust.com.au
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 96 09:03:04 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: Alternators and Dynamos

Sorry but i couldn’t help it…

One produces alternating current an the other is a feudal japanese lord…!!
:-8

Cheers
Paul

At 09:45 AM 10/1/96 -0500, you wrote:

A very simple minded question. What’s the difference between an
alternator and a dynamo? Is one American and the other English for
the same thing, or is there some kind of a distinction?

I’m sure someone else can give a better explanation but just in case they
don’t
I’ll give it a try.

No they are not the same thing.

Simple explanation - the alternator is the new technology which is more robust
and generates higher currents (35 amps at least with 50 or 55 not uncommon).
The good dynamo/generators peaked out at about 22 amps.

There are two major differences - which part spins and how the AC is converted
to DC.

A dynamo (AKA generator) has coils of wire (several sets of them I think, say
10 to 15) spinning inside fixed magnets (fixed to the dynamo housing). It
uses
the comutator on the end of the spinning shaft to smooth what starts out as an
AC current from the coils. The comutator is the terminals for each end of the
10-15 coils of wire arranged in a cylinder around the spinning shaft. The two
terminals for each coil are on opposite sides of the comutator so that they
contact the two carbon “brushes” at the same time thereby completing a circuit
and allowing the transfer of the current from that coil. This is how the
comutator is used to convert the AC current being created in each coil, as it
spins inside the magnetic field, into a continuous DC output. There is a
regulator involved in the process also but one thing at a time.

The Alternator has the components reversed and spins the magnets inside (1
or 2
I think) coils fixed to the case of the alternator. It is so called
because it
produces ALERNATING CURRENT (AC). This AC is converted to the required DC by
a diode rectifier which is usually built in to the alternator. There is
also a
regulator involved in this situation which may or may not be incorporated into
the alternator.

Corrections/additions anyone?

Any Questions?

Robert Bradley
82 XJ6, 82 Daimler, 87 XJ-S

From: alex@lindisfarne.hb.school.nz (alex beacham)
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 96 15:17 NZST
Subject: [none]

From: WEZA65A@prodigy.com (MR MICHAEL D FATSI)
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 23:53:45, -0500
Subject: SIII vs. XJ40

The two main reasons we buy Jags are: 1. they are simply beautiful
looking automobiles, and 2. They are a treat to drive. While my first
point is subjective I would have to say that the XJ-40 leaves
something to be desired in the looks department, especially when
compared to the SIII. Since, as we know Jaguars are art forms rather
that appliances maintenance and other mundane considerations must
take a back seat these two reasons, or else I fear we should all be
driving Honda Accords. I might as well add that for my money the new
XJ-6 puts Jaguar sedans back on top in the looks department

From: WEZA65A@prodigy.com (MR MICHAEL D FATSI)
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 00:18:00, -0500
Subject: Buying a SIII

Re: Query of Dieter Hachenberg

When looking to buy a SIII Jag one should be aware of many things
such as maintenence history overall condition etc. From my experience
major issues should be: has the car had a stake down kit installed if
not and the car still looks like a deal be prepared to do this as
soon as you buy the car. This kit is not a cheap fix due to labour
costs (the head must be removed) but is absolutely necessary, so
negotiate accordingly. Another key issue is paint, look at it
carefully the laquer on these cars tends to crack and must be
completely sanded off to respray which is very expensive. From what I
have read paint improvements went into effect in mid 1986 so many
'86’s and 87’s have good paint, many earlier cars have been reprayed
but look into this as a cheap respray (without having the old
cracking paint removed) will not last. Good luck on your search.

From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 00:32:31 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: XJ40 vs. Series III

The XJ40 is newer than a SIII, and is more durable, thus it would
ride better than a half-worn SIII. Many SIII’s need new steering rack
bushings, front end rebuild, rear end work, new shocks, and new bushings
throughout by about 80k miles (Jag techs please correct me if I’m wrong).

80K sounds fair for the front end. The rear goes longer. But just for the
record, the common wear items (ball joints, upper arm bushings and shock
mount bushings) are the same pieces for both cars. Well the shock mounts
are different sizes, but the same material. The XJ40 steering rack mount
is better stock. I think road feel is better on a SIII with the aftermarket
bushings.

If the SIII were new, I’d say it probably rides better due to the
superior rear suspension.

Nothing is worse than an XJ40 with failed self levelers in the back. To
quote Carrol Smith (talking about something entirely different: “… like
four pogo sticks going down the road in loose formation”.

you would have to do less to a XJ40. I’ve seen many in the local for-sale
ads that have run over 120K miles already, even the least reliable `88

As you said, any car (including Italian) can be made to run forever. I have
many SIII customers with over 150K on the clock. Several with over 250K.

models. XJ40’s have superior ZF transmissions that last longer than
the BW units in SIII’s.

True and to this day it amazes me. The 4HP22 unit was used by several Euro
car makers in the 80’s. Volvo, BMW, Peugeot, Renault, Lincoln… and
they all had excessive failure rates. It was common to hear stories from
the dealer mechs about having to push a new car off the transporter and
put another transmission in it. It was so common that Volvo went back to
Borg Warner (well, Asian Warner) around 88.

I’ve yet to see one of these units fail in an XJ40. Typical of Jag to have
the inverse reliability record of a common proven part. :>

The AJ6 engine in XJ40’s don’t blow head gaskets at 100K miles like
many SIII’s do, and it doesn’t need a stake-down kit.

Again, for the record, I am currently doing more AJ6 head gaskets than XK’s.
This is due to oil leaks out the right front corner. Other than that, the
AJ6 is a fantastic engine.

Electrics (post `90 models) are more reliable. The paint
doesn’t crack like SIII’s. Even the leather interior is more durable.
Leather and wood, in my opinion, only look good if they’re not in a shabby
state.

All true.

…

Roger Peng (408)765-7863

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 00:41:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: XJ40 - ABS CLUNK!

Hi all,
Also have another brake problem now. Installed new brake rotors and
pads (all dealer), and the ABS system clunks all the time, well, only when
slowing down. Even a gradual slowing down, not attempting a wheel-lock or
anything! My passengers and I have a neck ache from this problem!
Scenario: Low pressure light on for about 9 seconds in morning only.
Rear struts are now non-leveling dealer package
Brakes clunk!
According to the tests it may be the charge solenoid (the low pressure),
because the reservoir may sometimes overflow with green oil (back-flow, not
seating?)

Where is this charge switch/solenoid thing, if it’s still applicable to a
non-leveling car?

The charge switch and solenoid are both still very active. They have to
do with the hydraulic brake booster. They have nothing to do with the
rear suspension, the brake hydraulics proper, nor the ABS system. If
they totally failed you would only loose power assist (only? ever try to
stop one of these beasts without any?).

The solenoid is on the valve block, and the switch is on the accumulator
vessel.

Now, what are all of the symptoms? Does the pedal feel normal? Is the clunk
a one time thing, or continuous? rotational? Is the braking force linear or
is it jerky/grabbing? What makes you think it’s the ABS doing the clunking,
and not the brake mechanicals?

My first guess would be a rotor that is severely warped, or not seated
correctly on the hub.

Eric
cobac@ix.netcom.com

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

From: Aaron Burnett aaron.burnett@attws.com
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 22:02:13 -0700
Subject: Ignition coil testing

As a neophyte automotive electrician, I need some assistance in testing
the ignition coils on my '85 XJ-S. Can anyone give me easy to
understand, step by step instructions for this task?

Thanks in advance.

Aaron Burnett
'85 XJ-S

From: Bob Kerr bkerr@primenet.com
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 22:19:04 -0700 (MST)
Subject: XJ6 SIII Speedo Error

I recently purchased a 1983 XJ6 VP: over 100k miles, but good condition:
some minor undesired features!
One of the ‘features’ is that the speedo appears to read low, e.g. read
40mph but really doing closer to 50 - I think!
Does anyone have data as to what rpm of the engine corresponds to what speed

- in top gear say. A range of speeds would be useful: 30, 40, 50, 60 …
  This would allow me to confirm my suspicions and hopefully avoid a speeding
  ticket. My car is a standard US model, I believe, with no mods in this area
  (wheels, tires, differential, transmission, …).
  Assuming that my suspicions prove correct, are there any obvious places to
  look other than having the speedo rebuilt? The odometer does appear to be
  correct as far as I can tell.

I’m new to this list, and new to owning Jaguar cars, but loved them forever!
I’ve had a Triumph TR6 for twenty years, and its still my daily driver, but
is overdue now for some serious work - hence the justification for the Jag
purchase! Trouble is, my wife has fallen in love with the Jag, so …
BobK

Bob Kerr, Phoenix AZ, USA
'76 Truimph TR6 OD (Carmine);
'83 Jaguar XJ6 Vanden Plas (Gold)
Arsenal Gunners FAN
“Relax…don’t worry…have a homebrew!”

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 07:31:00 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: Alternators and Dynamos

Corrections/additions anyone?

Any Questions?

I guess one important point is that an alternator deliveres an significant
amount of current at about engine idle speed if I remember well.

- Matthias

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 07:55:17 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: XJS V12 radiator flush

I tried to flush the radiator yesterday and discovered that there is
no drain plug at the bottom of the radiator. Is this the original
design from Jaguar? Any advise on the best way to drain the radiator?

I removed the lower radiator hose.

- Matthias

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 08:02:51 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: aluminum polish

My favourite aluminium polish is Solvol Autosol, a German product available
world wide. It’s an abrasive/solvent mix that produces a superb finish (on
chrome, too) and also contains something that appears to leave a protective
film - possibly wax. At least, the polish job seems to last extremely well.
-Jan

Here in France is a company “Belgom” (spelling ?) which amongst others product
have a very nice aluminium cleaner. I bought a bottle recently and it really
gives excellent results. I also saw this product advertized in other
European countries.

- Matthias

From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 1996 02:17:10 -0400
Subject: Re: XJ6 SIII Speedo Error

I’m certainly no expert, but when I replaced my
tach generator the techie that rebuilt it tested it
on some kinda flutterometer contraption and, showing
me that it worked properly, told me that they are not
nearly as accurate as people think.
Since I’m having the same suspicions about my own
speedo, I am having a friend drive (following me) checking
my speeds at various increments.
Yeah, I know, and who is going to check his?
Prob. a cop!, it is an E you know.
Regards,
Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
'62 E-Type, ots

From: “Donald R. Farr” d.farr@phx.cox.com
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 1996 23:18:10 -0700
Subject: Re: 90 xj6 bulb failure light

we have a 90 xj6 that has a bulb failure light that comes on most
times when brakes are applied.

I’ve had a similar problem with my 91 Sovereign that reappears like a
ghost from time to
time with never a satisfactory answer. I usually “cure” it by
slamming the driver door (I suggest doing this at stop lights, not
while going around a curve at 90mph).

I’m all ears to what others have to say.

Donald R. Farr
Paradise Valley, AZ 85253
(602) 948-7499 - fax
91 Sovereign
d.farr@phx.cox.com - e-mail
http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/dfarr.htm - Don’s Homepage
http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/jetta1.htm - Jetta Notebook Computers
http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/march10.htm - Wireless products
http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/ncs1.htm - National Consulting Services

From: Robert Bradley Robert.Bradley@bh.eyi.com
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 01:26:01 -0500
Subject: Not XJ6 III but serious SI warning - Read it

I don’t think this is your problem but you reminded me of something which
happened to me several years ago on my Series I XJ12 which scared the daylights
and several other things out of me. I don’t know if it’s common and I believe
it is not just a Jaguar problem, but everone should be aware of the following
in case it ever happens to you - it will possibly save your life.

As far as I am aware there was no warning from the steering system - everthing
was working fine. Then, in a instant I discovered I could no longer turn the
car to the left AT ALL. If I turned the wheel a little to the right that was
easy to do but NO amount of force would turn the wheel back to the left in
the slightest. I shudder ever time I think what I would have done if I had
been traveling at any speed. By the grace of who or whatever, I was reverse
parking at the time! The steering specialist (in Melbourne not Bahrain), who
stripped the rack, said that the the piston on the rack had come loose and shot
to one end of the rack (left end I presume) where it was tilted by the force of
the power steering fluid and formed an extremely effective one way locking
mechanisim on the rack which no amount of force could release.

That’s the warning, here’s the immediate reaction which I hope no-one ever has
to use.

I had time to work this out - it took me about 10-20 seconds, you may not be so
lucky. Cut the engine immediately in order to stop the steering pump. This
removed the pressure from the displaced piston and allowed me to turn the wheel
both ways albeit without any assistance but at least I had full steering
control.

P.S. I think the steering specialist said that the rack design was modified on
later models to attach the piston to the rack in a more secure manner. Can
anyone confirm?

P.P.S. Has any one else had this happen? I don’t want everyone to pannick and
start stripping their racks.

Robert Bradley
82 XJ4.2, 82 Daimler, 87 XJ-S

From: Robert Bradley Robert.Bradley@bh.eyi.com
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 01:42:49 -0500
Subject: Jags at Bathurst

What was the year the XJS won (I seem to remember it did once).

1984 I think but you bring back fond memories. Magnificent race to watch. It
was TWR at their best “I came, I saw, I conquered”. It was a real
demonstration of how a professional team does things. No mucking around, three
car team, fully equiped. All cars were a class above the field. The number
THREE car won easing up at the end due to a broken seat mount. The number two
car retired with a broken headlamp which sent glass into the air intake.
Tom’s (#1) car lost a few laps with an oil leak (how unusual) but Tom got the
last say when the commentary team was focusing on the race for second/third.
Half way up the back straight with second & third neck and neck, side by side
(take your pick); the incar camera in one of the tussling cars is pointed si
deways at the other to highlight the struggle. The commentator is going wild

- meanwhile Tom steams past to make it three abreast (he was a few laps down),
  as he draws level he turns to the camera, smiles, flicks a wave and steams
  off. Beautiful stuff - anyone got a tape?

Robert Bradley
82 XJ, 82 Daimler, 82 XJ-S

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 2 Oct 96 17:54:47
Subject: Re: SIII vs. XJ40

The thing about taste is that, being a species of opinion, one person’s taste
is as valid as any other person’s. I think it’s just a little rude to tell
others that “Your car is ugly next to mine, and doesn’t drive as well, either”.
Personally, I like my XJ12C very much and every drive is a thrill - but if you
prefer the Series 4 XJ6 (aka XJ 40), and get great pleasure out of driving it,
that’s great, and I’m happy for you. Even if you have formed an attachment to a
lump transplant patient, I’m happy for you. It’s your choice, and it’s your
taste that matters, not mine.

Having said that, I think it’s a damn’ shame they didn’t do an XJ12C in series
3…
:3+)

-Jan

From: Robert Bradley Robert.Bradley@bh.eyi.com
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 02:11:05 -0500
Subject: Re: SIII XJ6 Noises

You are incorrect to rule out the fuel pump. The pump itself does not click on
this model - it whirs (SUs click). Furthermore it does not operate when the
engine is not running or the key is in the cranking position.

One suggestion as follows. The noise you describe, including your diagnosis
notes (notably that the noise is more obvious from inside the car) is very
similiar to the noise I have in one of my SIIIs. After much investigation by
myself and the Jaguar service manager we narrowed it down to a fuel pulsing
noise being transmitted from the fuel line through the body of the car. No
easy fix was obvious. Since the noise is only noticable when ambient noise
levels are low ie. the car is idling and the AC is OFF (only for a few weeks
in winter) and it is not doing any mechanical damage I have not bothered to
pursue it further.

Robert Bradley
Bahrain
82 XJ, 82 Daimler, 87 XJ-S(if it ever comes back from the workshop)

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 2 Oct 96 18:22:19
Subject: Re: Ignition coil testing

This is the Gum Tree Garage test for a V12 ignition when it cranks but refuses
to start:

Pull the lead from coil to distributor out of the distributor and jam it
under a fuel pipe so there’s a gap of about 1 mm (.04in) between the brass and
the nearest engine part.
Crank the engine. Do you get fat, blue sparks in the gap? Then the ignition
is OK and you need to troubleshoot the injection system. If not, continue:
Pull the spade connector off the coil terminal marked (+). Turn the ignition
on, then test the power with a spare light bulb between the connector and
engine bare metal (this is better than a voltmeter, because it will reveal a
poor contact with insufficient current carrying capacity). Is the lamp bright?
Then continue; if there’s no voltage, check the ignition switch and all its
wiring including the ballast resistor.
Touch the connector quickly several times to the terminal. Do you get a
spark now? Then the pickup coil in the distributor or its wiring, or (less
likely) the amplifier, may be faulty. If there’s no spark, turn the ignition
off and continue:
Get a test lead with alligator clips. Clip one end to bare metal on the
engine, pull the tubular connector off the (-) terminal of the coil and clip
the other end to that terminal.
Repeat test 4. If you get a spark now, the amplifier or its wiring is
faulty. If you get no spark, the coil is dead.

Enjoy!

-Jan

77 XJ12C
78 XJ12L

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #396

Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4)
id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Wed, 2 Oct 1996 17:03:19 +0200 (MET DST)
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 17:03:19 +0200 (MET DST)
Message-Id: 199610021503.RAA22250@ekeberg.sn.no
X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f
From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #397
Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Precedence: bulk
X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest

jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 2 October 1996 Volume 02 : Number 397

Re: XJ6 III lazy power steering
Re: XJ40 vs. Series III
Wanted XJ6 SIII, XJ40
Re: SIII XJ6 Noises
Alzheimers/Aluminum
Jaguar Association of New England Rally (X-post SOL)
Bulb Failure Light XJ6/XJS
looking for used tires / XJ-S
Re: XJS V12 radiator flush
RE: Sir William, noisy AC.
Jaguar Suppliers (posted monthly)

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 2 Oct 96 19:00:16
Subject: Re: XJ6 III lazy power steering

Does sound like the pump is clapped out, Tim - although they usually get noisy
with age. Have you checked the belt tension? It does need to be fairly tight.

Actually, I just remembered - there’s a small strainer in the relief valve,
which may be blocked; this tends to pop the valve prematurely and reduce the
pressure. To check this, disconnect the delivery line and use a socket (can’t
remember the size - 7/8?) to unscrew the delivery fitting. Behind it, there’s a
spring and a valve spool; at the inner end of the spool (forward as the car
travels), there’s what looks like a self-locking hex nut; the tiny strainer is
in in the mouth of this nut; unscrew it and clean with great care.

For neatness, suck the oil out of the pump before you start - a retired bicycle
pump can easily be converted into a sucker…

The official Repair Operations Manual has a pretty good section on PAS
trouble-shooting, but it calls for gauges and fittings.

-Jan

From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 09:48:20 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: XJ40 vs. Series III

Roger Peng rpeng@cadev6.intel.com wrote:

Indeed, the series III is the most beautiful car in the world, but

Amen to that! IMHO the Series III XJ is the Cindy Crawford of cars. Or
maybe Cindy is the Jaguar of women? Hmmm…

it’s not all that durable compared to other cars. Especially when it’s
done over 120K miles, the car virtually needs to be restored. You need
a new engine, new transmission, new paint, new interior, new wood,
no bushings, new steering rack, rear suspension work, some rust removal,
A/C work, electrics repair, and perhaps a new gas tank or two. The total
cost can be daunting, and you need to go through a lot of hassles to get
everything done. Once you’re done, if you ever decide to part with your
Jag, you’ll never get your investments back.

Maybe not today, but I think I read somewhere that these cars are rising
stars among the automobile collectors. They are after all getting 10
years old and more and just about everyone agrees that they are
beautiful. I’m afraid that we’re getting to the point soon where they
won’t be driven anymore, they’ll be collected. What a pity.

Ah well, I bought mine to drive it! Now if I could only get Cindy
somehow I’d sure as hell… never mind!

Gunnar

From: Mareks Malnacs Mareks@kc-po.swh.lv
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 96 10:57:00 EET
Subject: Wanted XJ6 SIII, XJ40

Hi,

I`m interested to purchase Jaguar XJ6 SIII (1985 - 1987 only) or XJ40
(1988 - 1993). Important - left placed steering wheel! Colour and
interrior - any, possible. Power windows, doors etc. May be with or
without CD/radio.
Thanks for any response,
Mareks Malnacs.

From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 10:02:34 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: SIII XJ6 Noises

“Dan Golder” dan_golder@sdm.buffalo.edu wrote:

I have a 1985 SIII XJ6 VDP…

On colder mornings (50 degrees) after a day or two of sitting, my Jag makes a strange “clicking” noise upon startup. We have a lot of those mornings around here (and worse to come). My car has the same thing, sounds like it’s coming from under the car, at first I thought it was the passenger seat that was loose or something. The PO (and Oslo Jaguar Service) have told me that it’s the fuel return line. The noise is created by pulses in the line or some such. I’ve checked the tube (yep, it’s running right beneath the passenger seat) and it’s already insulated with rubber by the PO. I’ve been told that it’s perfectly normal and the only way to get rid of it is to install a filter (I think) in line with the tube. I haven’t really investigated further, let me know if you do and find out some more. Gunnar Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar XJ6 4.2 Sovereign gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | Vicki who? What .sig virus? From: “Felts, Thomas L.” Thomas.Felts@alcoa.com Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 07:27:13 -0400 Subject: Alzheimers/Aluminum Someone recently suggested you throw your AL pans away because use could cause Alzeimers. To my knowledge there has never been any statistically proven link between Al pan use and Alzeimers. Tom From: “Owens, Adam J.” uscuc8hc@ibmmail.com Date: Wed, 02 Oct 1996 09:34:39 EDT Subject: Jaguar Association of New England Rally (X-post SOL) Date: 1996-10-02 09:14 Priority: For any jag-lovers in the Boston,MA area on Sunday October 20,1996. JANE will be holding a Fall Fun Rally. This will be a short non-JCNA sanctioned ‘fun-type’ rally similar to the Spring Rally held in May. Entry is open to anyone and any vehicle. Entry fee will be $15 and trophies will be awarded for 1st, 2nd and 3rd place along with the infamous DLBF prize. Meeting point will the Burger King Restaurant on RTE 128 North in Beverly,MA at 10:00 AM. For further info please call the JANE Rallymasters John & Nancy Capacefalo at (617) 729-2065. Best of luck to all! Cheers, A.J. Owens - Jaguar Association of New England http://users.aol.com/ajowens/jane.htm From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell) Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 08:49:01 -0500 Subject: Bulb Failure Light XJ6/XJS I have a bulb failure indication on my XJ6 and cannot find the solution unless it is the detector unit itself that is out. My XJ6 manual (Haynes…?) says that the clearance lights front and back and the tail lights are monitored. Strangely, the Haynes manual for the XJS seems to indicate that only the Brake lights are monitored. Does anyone have the true information? And, is there a way to test the detectors to determine if they are working? JIM I. “Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.” Gen. Emiliano Zapata 1879-1919 From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR) Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 15:50:26 +0200 (MET DST) Subject: looking for used tires / XJ-S I’m looking for two used tires for my XJ-S, Pirelli’s P600 235. If anyone something and is going to JEC spare day in October, please let me know Thanks matthias From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell) Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 10:04:25 -0500 Subject: Re: XJS V12 radiator flush The same question was asked a few weeks ago… The answer is: disconnect the lower radiator hose at the radiator end. (It will drain REAL fast.) ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: XJS V12 radiator flush Author: Patrick Siu patrick@idacom.hp.com at Internet Date: 10/1/1996 5:01 PM Hi, Winter is approaching in Canada … I tried to flush the radiator yesterday and discovered that there is no drain plug at the bottom of the radiator. Is this the original design from Jaguar? Any advise on the best way to drain the radiator? Any word of caution or suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance for your help. Patrick Siu 89 XJS V12 Conv. From: “Dawson, Barrie” dawsonb@btcec3.agw.bt.co.uk Date: Wed, 02 Oct 96 15:22:00 GMT Subject: RE: Sir William, noisy AC. Jim, I have been experiencing the same thing with the AC on my series III . I recently had the AC system rebuilt, compressor/condenser/dryer/various valves & thermostats, everything was fine for about 5 months. I noticed a hissing sound, inside the car, every time the compressor cut in. I checked under the bonnet and noticed an increase in bubbles in the dryer sight glass and a heavy build up of frost on the return pipe to the compressor. I checked this out with my local AC specialist and he said the system was low on refrigerant and needed topping up. Getting system recharged next week, ?40.00 should do it. Barrie Dawson Chatham, Kent England 1985 series III Sovereign From: jag-lovers-owner To: jag-lovers Subject: Sir William, noisy AC. Date: 30 September 1996 16:24 The voice interview I mentioned on the pronounciation of Jaguar was an interview with Sir William. I consider him the authority on the subject and he said Jag-u-were. I have a question about noise from freon flow in an AC system. I just got my XJ6 back and I can hear the freon flow through the system. I didnt used to be able to. I had this happen on a Ford Escort once after an AC repair. Never knew why. Is this curable? The AC works perfectly, its just that you can hear the freon “sing” as it goes through the system. Its most noticable after you shut the car off and the freon goes toward equilibrium. Jim “Better an outlaw than not free.” Nance O’Neil From: jjoy@risc.sps.mot.com Date: Tue, 1 Oct 1996 09:00:02 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Jaguar Suppliers (posted monthly) Suppliers, North America (mostly). [This list is automatically sent out on the first of each month.] Updates: none (Corrections, etc, to: jjoy@risc.sps.mot.com) The majority of this list has come from Rob Reilly reilly@admail.fnal.gov SUPPLIERS OF JAGUAR PARTS AND SERVICES Rev. 8-1-96 A D Motor Rebuilding, NY 1-516-395-5101 Lucas, Smith’s motors rebuilt Al Hogan’s Autojumble Mansfield, Ohio 1-419-524-1088 NOS parts supplier Specializes in buying out old dealer stock. Owner (Al) is knowledgeable about british car parts. Steve DuChene s0017210@cc.ysu.edu Dick Ames, 608 Ft. Williams Pkwy, Alexandria, VA 22304 1-703-370-3097 stainless exhaust systems Best price on stainless steel exhaust systems. I’ve misplaced the address but can probably look it up if pressed. PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik) Ancient Car Parts, 64 N Main, Lyndonville, NY 14098 1-716-765-2894 rust repair panels for XJ Apple Hydraulics, 715 Route 25A, Miller Place, NY 11764 1-800-882-7753 rebuilds Armstrong, Girling shocks, SU carbs 1-516-744-9627 Asom Electric, 1204 McClellan Dr., Los Angeles, CA 90025 1-310-820-3720 email: asomelect@aol.com 1-800-424-2766 Electrical rebuilding shop that deals mostly in Lucas and Bosch and rebuild starters, alternators, generators, fuel pumps, voltage regulators, wiper and window motors. They have a large supply of Lucas parts, including discontinued items. In business for 36 years, have daily UPS, and accept credit cards. Atlantic Enterprises, Route 4, Box 394-B, Loris, SC 29569 1-803-756-7565 steering racks, seal kits, polyurethane rack mounts Auto Interiors of Europe, 1790 E McFadden, Unit 107 1-800-533-2886 interiors Santa Ana, CA 92705 (not sure which addr. is correct) 3023 S. Orange Ave. Santa Ana, CA 92707 (714) 751-9046 Nice stuff if I remember correctly. Not cheap but nothing for these beasts is. s912!rick@bnf.com (Rick Ezneker) Kent Bain, 1785 Barnum Ave, Stratford, CT 06497 1-203-377-6745 custom interiors, seat rebuilding and repadding G.W.Bartlett, Muncie, Ind. 1-800-338-8034 interior and trim parts Sells original Jaguar Interior kits and components. All to exact Jaguar specifications. As per original spec. Quite costly but isn’t quality always a bit more? (eg. Interior kit for Jag 3.8s is about $4200, retail.) zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay) Basset’s, Wyoming, R.I. 1-401-539-3010 restoration parts Borla Industries, Oxnard, Calif. 1-805-983-7300 stainless exhaust British Auto Center, 2938 SW Avalon Way, Seattle, WA 98126 206-935-0873 Lots of late model stuff, new and used. Very knowledgeable. Can sometimes be grumpy. – Greg Meboe (meboe@wsunix.wsu.edu) British Auto USA, 92 Londonderry Trnpk, 1-603-622-1050 British Auto USA Interiors Manchester, NH 03104 1-800-4-JAGPTS interior and trim parts 1-800-452-4787 Exc. inventory of interiors and body parts. Limited inventory of mechanical parts but I always check them out because they’re cheaper! (I avoid Bartlets for Jag interiors) PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik) British Car Parts, CA 1-818-788-7636 new and used parts British Marque Auto PO Box 344, Bainbridge, PA 17502 1-717-426-2675 interiors British Motor Service, 521 W. Katella, Orange, CA 92667 1-714-997-3800 Moss distributor, used XK parts British Parts Northwest, 4105 SE Lafayette Hwy, 1-503-864-2001 new parts for late models, no sheet metal Dayton, OR 97114 British Restoration Parts, Kansas City, Mo. 1-800-821-3767 new restoration parts British Spares, 46 Florence, Springfield, MA 01105 1-413-736-0463 fabricates panels for XK, Marks, E British Vintages, 645-D Tank Farm Rd, 1-800-350-JAGS San Luis Obispo, CA 93401 1-805-541-5986 Have their catalog but so far never used them. PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik) British Wire Wheel, 1650 Mansfield St, 1-408-479-4495 Santa Cruz, CA 95062 Dayton and Dunlop wire wheels, tires THE place to go for correct reconditioning of your JagWires. Also to buy THE correct tires. PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik) Bob Brosen, 7804 Billington Court, Oxen Hill, MD 20744 1-301-248-6327 new repro parts for pre-war, Mark IV, V Classic Parts & Panels, Ltd. 0296 658938 Fleet Marston Farm, Bicester Rd., Nr Waddesdon Aylesbury, Bucks, UK HD 18 ODZ XK panels Classic Restoration Parts, Bellflower, Ca. 1-213-804-2756 XK grilles, gas tanks Classic Tube 1-716-759-1800 A Division of Classic & Performance Specialists 80 Rotech Drive Lancaster, NY 14086 USA They supply steel and stainless steel pre-bent brake and fuel lines for various makes of cars. I got half the brake lines and clutch lines from them in stainless, and being the prudish restoration junkie I am, I was concerned that the reproduction in stainless would not be very “original”. However, I’m happy to say the final product is almost identical to the original steel lines, most judges will not notice the difference. – Mark Roberts (markdr@bnr.ca) Concourse West, 644 Terminal Way, Costa Mesa CA 92627 714-642-9807 fax 714-645-8388 Have rebuilt diffs. PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik) Cordell R. Newby, 1410 N. Aurora, East Wenatchee, WA 98801 509-884-6823 Specializes in Mark V parts. New and used. s912!rick@bnf.com (Rick Ezneker) Coshman Ent, PO Box 2685-J, Orcutt, CA 93455 1-805-937-7456 Whitworth tools, taps & dies, gauges, fasteners Coventry Engineering, 9500 SW Martha St, Tigard, OR 97224 1-503-620-9482 wiring harnesses Coventry S Ltd, 6406 85th Place, New Carrolton, MD 20784 1-800-537-4146 stainless exhaust systems Joe Curto, 230-22 58th Ave. Bayside, NY 11364 1-718-465-4829 S.U. parts Wes Czech, HCR 9550, Lucerne Valley, CA 92356 1-619-248-9603 XK parts Stanley Daniel, 124 Parkview Rd. Cheltenham, PA 19012 1-215-782-1248 used Mark 7-9 parts from 30 cars, call after 9PM EST Doctor Jaguar, 644 W 17th St, Costa Mesa, CA 92627 1-714-646-2816 parts, engines, trans, susp. parts East Coast Jag Parts DE 1-302-731-7200 EJAG NEWS, Box J, Carlisle, Mass 01741 magazine, a few accessories Engel Imports, Kalamazoo, Mich. 1-800-253-4080 new car dealer, will UPS, cheaper than other dealers European Auto Specialists, 1-313-355-2730 OEM parts for late models John Farrel, 4315 Murray St., Flushing, NY 11355 1-718-762-9071 NOS XK parts Foreign Car Center, 1610 S Main, Milpitas, CA 95035 1-408-262-0325 used parts recycler Grand Turisimo Jaguar 1-216-259-5656 4285 Main Street fax: 1-216-259-5588 Perry Village, OH 44081 engine rebuilder, parts Specializing in high performance parts and services. They list a ‘level 5’ Jaguar V12 with all of the whistles and bells like porting, balancing, etc. with 6, count them, 6 two bbl Weber carbs mounted vertically across the top of the V12! This engine sells for about $13,500. - zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay) Gunson Ltd., Pudding Mill Lane, London E15 2PJ UK source for ColourTune Tony Handler’s Foreign Parts Connection 1-213-473-7773 2028 Cotner Ave, Westwood, CA 90025 H.D. Rogers & Sons 1-318-742-3651 3418 Barksdale Blvd. fax: 1-318-742-5044 Bossier City, LA 71112 email: hdrsons@iamerican.net Family-owned business supplying used, NOS, discontinued parts as well as enhancements for newer cars. For example, they offer aftermarket a/c hoses for XJ series and a less expensive amplifier. They try to give special rates to internet users. They also have contracts worldwide and will try to locate hard to find items, and offer special prices for prepaid orders from overseas. Harry CA 1-408-262-0235 used parts H.P. Co., 1079 Colonial Club Dr, Harahan, LA 70123 1-504-737-4691 burled walnut dashboards I-35 Imports Oklahoma 1-405-799-2886 used parts, 80 and older Intermarque Auto Parts Houston 1-800-666-8700 parts and sheet metal International Spare Parts 1-800-243-0073 J.K.Restorations, 12 Jackson, Oswego, IL 1-708-554-2120 complete restorations, specialist for XK and E, some used parts Jag Atlanta, 3437 Sexton Woods Dr, Chamblee, GA 30341 1-800-533-8973 new, used parts for E and XJ 1-404-455-0175 Jaggist (Alan Trickel) 1065 Hillview, Ashland, OR 97520 1-503-535-8486 used XK parts Jaguar Cars Inc, Public Relations, Mahwah NJ 1-201-818-9770 For a fee will authenticate your VIDNs. PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik) Jaguar Denver 1-800-426-4515 Lucas, Girling, Jag parts Jaguar Heaven, 1433 Tillie Lewis Dr, Stockton, CA 95206-1130 info: 1-209-942-4524, orders: 1-800-969-4524, FAX: 1-209-942-3670 used parts recycler, all models Jaguar Interiors of England, PO Box 47, Muncie, IN 47308 1-317-289-9901 carpeting and upholstery Jaguar Motor Works, 3701 Longview Dr, Atlanta, GA 30341 1-800-331-2193 used XJ parts recycler, rebuilt parts Local 404-451-3839 FAX-404-451-7561 Jaguar of North America, Leonia, NJ 1-201-592-5200 factory American distributor Jaguar South Greenville, SC 1-803-244-1555, 1-803-292-3934 used parts recycler Jaguar parts SC 1-803-754-5363 Jaguar Warehouse, 6010 Mardale Lane, Burke, VA 22015 1-703-451-4071 NOS parts Jaguar Warehouse, 5727 Walcott Ave, Fairfax, VA 22030 1-703-968-3983 XK parts J C Whitney, Chicago, IL 312-431-6102 Also known as Warshawsky/Whitney. Sells car parts cheap for most cars including LBCs. Massive buying power. Brainless order-takers. You can call in the middle of the night for good long-distance rates. They will not tell you brand names. All the swaybars are ADDCO. See also ADDCO and Werace. - ? J.C. Whitney offers a few items that are of interest. Things like generic weatherstrip by the foot, etc. The do offer after market A/C units and high output quartz halogen 7 inch headlights (110 watts!!!). The ad carries the label ‘Not legal for street use.’ They look really cool. zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay) John’s Cars, 800 Jaguar Lane, Dallas, TX 75226 1-214-426-4100 fax: 1-214-426-3116 V-8 conversions, other repro parts, claims improvements over stock Just Jags, 407 Industrial Dr, Carmel, IN 46032 1-317-844-8823 new, used parts, service, restorations Just Jags, 8720 Big Bend at Elm, St.Louis, MO 63119 1-314-968-2450 service, parts, restoration shop Keller Associates, PO Box 2833, Saratoga, CA 95070 1-408-370-3705 burl walnut dashboards Lister of North Am, 1912 Granvill Av, Muncie, IN 47308 1-800-338-8034 high performance accessories Lovello, Mark SC 1-803-244-1555 used parts Moss Motors, PO Box MG, 7200 Hollister Av, Goleta, CA 93116 800-235-6954 new and repro parts for XK’s Moss Motors, Santa Barbara, California 1-805-963-0741 new car dealer Cordell Newby, 1625 N Western, East Wenatchee, WA 98801 1-509-662-7748 new, used, repro parts for pre-war, Mark IV, V added: Jul. 29, 1994 Nisonger Instrument Sales & Service 1-914-381-1952 570 Mamaroneck Ave. fax: 1-914-381-1953 Mamaroneck, NY 10543 Repairs capillary based guages. “I had them repair my water temp gauge 2 months ago. Charge was $100 including shipping, turnaround time was 2 weeks, and they take plastic.” Rob Reilly Northwest Modern Classics, 121 Duryea, Raymond, WA 98577 interiors, carpets, upholstery, tops 1-800-854-1751,1-206-942-5532 Northwest Transmission Parts, Ohio 1-513-442-2811 or 1-800-327-1955 auto trans rebuilding kits, torque convertors Peninsula Imports, 3749 Harlem Rd, Buffalo, NY 14215 1-800-999-1209 XJ, E body and rust repair panels 1-716-833-3000 Fred Petroske, RR1, Box 112, Chaumont, NY 13622 1-315-649-2861 used parts recycler, all models Paul K. Phillips 1-305-846-7976 1124 N. W. 134 Ave. fax: 1-305-846-9450 Sunrise, FL 33323 Specializes in the XJ Coupe market and runs an XJC register. “I have dealt with him once on an exhaust system (via a referral from SICP) and got good service. He does require cash C.O.D. (no credit cards) which is a bit of a bother.” - gladish@suite.com (Brian Gladish) Phil’s, Inc. Ashland Ave, Evanston, IL 1-708-869-2434 PII Distributing, PO Box 27358, Houston, TX 77227-7358 1-800-231-5836 genuine Jaguar parts, sheet metal 1-713-975-6272 Chuck Pilate, 24996 W Magdalena Dr, Mt Clemens, MI 48045 XK, E parts 1-313-791-0429 Rich’s Import Auto Parts & Serv, 730 N Glebe Rd, Arlington, VA 22203 parts for E, XJ and 62 on sedans 1-800-336-6603, 1-703-522-0440 Rhino Auto Parts, Hanover, MN 1-612-498-8711 used and NOS parts 50’s to 70’s Rhode Island Wiring Service, Box 3737H, Peace Dale, RI 02883 wiring harnesses 1-401-789-1955 Martin Robey Panels, Pool Rd, Camp Hill 011-44-203-386-903 Industrial Estate, Nuneaton, Warks CV10 9AE England Rodney, 2035 Cornell St, Sarasota, FL 33577 1-813-955-5960 used parts recycler SCJ, 3 Elizabeth Ave, Burlington, MA 01803 NOS parts, pre-war to 61 Samplex, 30 Parkview Dr, Succasunna, NJ 07876 201-584-9370 US source for ColourTune Special Interest Car Parts, 1340 Hartford Ave, Johnston, RI 02919 voice: 1-800-556-7496, 1-800-851-5600, 1-401-831-8850 fax: 1-800-672-SICP(1-800-672-7427), 1-401-831-7760 We have parts for your Jaguar, MG, Healey, TR. Good prices. Superb catalog. Parts from XK120 through XJ40 including e-types. Will often meet or beat prices from competitors. S&S Specialties, 108 Sation St, Cumming, IA 50061 1-515-981-9148 NOS, rebuilt and used parts for XK, Mk and E, sheet metal parts Stainless Steel Muffler Corp, 3032 Genesee St, Buffalo, NY 14225 stainless exhaust systems 1-716-893-2116 Terry’s Jaguar Parts, 117 E Smith St, Benton, IL 62812 1-800-851-9438 new and used parts for later models 1-618-439-4444 Bill Tracy, Sarasota, Florida 1-813-924-9523 new and repro parts for XK’s Trans Ocean, Dept PDH, 390 Olive Tree Lane, Sierra Madre, CA 91024 Lucas parts jobber, '30 to '76 British cars Welsh Jaguar Enterprises, Steubenville, Ohio 1-800-875-5247 new and repro parts for XK’s and newer 1-614-282-8649 fax: 1-614-282-1913 Catalogue available. (free) The best prices for Jaguar parts that I have found. zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay) Exc. inventory of parts, new and used. Can offer helpful technical advice. PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik) Ed West, 1941H Jan Marie Place, Tustin, CA 92680 1-714-832-2688 new, used, repro parts for earlier Jags Ed west has lots of intresting stuff at very resonable prices and lots of advice. – m_skogs@ix.netcom.com (Matthew Skosberg) White Post Restorations, White Post, VA 22663 1-703-837-1140 restorations, brake and clutch cylinders resleeved XK’s Unlimited, 850 Fiero Lane, San Luis Obispo, CA 93401 1-805-544-7864 new and repro parts for XK’s 1-800-444-JAGS In CA: 805-544-7864 FAX: 805-544-1664 catalog available. ($6.00, refundable first order) “Parts & Service for all model Jaguars from 1948 on” XK’s Unlimited is a good place to send Girling calipers for for piston bore sleeving. -? XK’s Unlimited is good, but is a bit higher than Welch Jaguar. They are also committed to “correct” parts. Additionally, you can call them without a part number. Just be sure that they tell you what is included in the replacement part. - zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay) Good inventory and advice, but pricey. Nice catalogue. Has a restoration shop sleeving brake cylinders in stainless. PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik) XKSS Interiors, Thousand Oaks, CA 91359 1-800-922-XKSS, 1-805-482-4682 interior and trim parts Vicarage Jaguar 1-305-444-8759 % Gables Cats fax: 1-305-443-6443 220 Granello Avenue Coral Gables, FL 33146 vicarage@ix.netcom.com (alt. vicarage@paradise.net) http://paradise.net/vicarage Vicarage says: If one is in need of specialized or hard to find parts we will have them. In addition we do offer the unique Vicarage upgrades and enhancement products for all post war Jaguars. Zimmer, Bob 2675 Stoney Brook Rd, Orchard Park, NY 14127 1-716-652-7909 XK parts End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #397 ******************************** Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4) id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Wed, 2 Oct 1996 23:36:25 +0200 (MET DST) Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 23:36:25 +0200 (MET DST) Message-Id: 199610022136.XAA10798@ekeberg.sn.no X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #398 Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Precedence: bulk X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 2 October 1996 Volume 02 : Number 398 Bulb Failure Light XJ6/XJS Re: XJ6 SIII Speedo Error RE: Sir William, noisy AC. Re[2]: XJ6 SIII Speedo Error XJS cough & Sputter oil pressure Wanted XJ6 SIII, XJ40 RE:XJ40 vs SIII (quite long) Surviving California Smog Check Re: XJS V12 radiator flush Re: Alzheimers/Aluminum (no Jag content whatsoever) RE:XJ40 vs SIII (quite long) Bulb Failure Light XJ6/XJS Vintage Restorations, Kent, UK Re: Alzheimers/Aluminum (no Jag content whatsoever) 1994 vanden plas Re: Alzheimers/Aluminum (no Jag content whatsoever) Re: Vintage Restorations, Kent, UK XJS A/C Servo Connections From: “Tracy A. Ferrell” tracy@brooktree.com Date: Wed, 02 Oct 1996 08:20:32 -0700 Subject: Bulb Failure Light XJ6/XJS Jim Isbell wrote:
I have a bulb failure indication on my XJ6 and cannot find the solution
unless it is the detector unit itself that is out.

My XJ6 manual (Haynes…?) says that the clearance lights front and back and
the tail lights are monitored.

Strangely, the Haynes manual for the XJS seems to indicate that only the
Brake lights are monitored.

Does anyone have the true information? And, is there a way to test the
detectors to determine if they are working?

I’ve had the bulb failure light come on on my '84 XJ6 for bad side markers
and tail lights. However, I’m sure the license plate lights are also in the
circuit.
Since the bulb failure circuit is measuring the difference in current
between each side, it’s important that you match wattage between sides.

Tracy A. Ferrell tracy@brooktree.com in Sunny San Diego

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 10:33:13 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ6 SIII Speedo Error

I don’t know about your area, but around here (Northern Virginia, USA) you can
take your car to a number of places to get your speedometer checked/calibrated.
My wife took her Honda to a local Jiffy Lube and had hers done. (Jiffy Lube is
a chain of drive-in oil change / lube job places. In and out in minutes. I was
astonished that they did something like speedometer checks.) They gave her a
neat little computer generated sheet showing speedo versus actual speeds.

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: XJ6 SIII Speedo Error
Author: Bob Kerr bkerr@primenet.com at Internet
Date: 10/1/1996 10:19 PM

I recently purchased a 1983 XJ6 VP: over 100k miles, but good condition:
some minor undesired features!
One of the ‘features’ is that the speedo appears to read low, e.g. read
40mph but really doing closer to 50 - I think!
Does anyone have data as to what rpm of the engine corresponds to what speed

- in top gear say. A range of speeds would be useful: 30, 40, 50, 60 …
  This would allow me to confirm my suspicions and hopefully avoid a speeding
  ticket. My car is a standard US model, I believe, with no mods in this area
  (wheels, tires, differential, transmission, …).
  Assuming that my suspicions prove correct, are there any obvious places to
  look other than having the speedo rebuilt? The odometer does appear to be
  correct as far as I can tell.

I’m new to this list, and new to owning Jaguar cars, but loved them forever!
I’ve had a Triumph TR6 for twenty years, and its still my daily driver, but
is overdue now for some serious work - hence the justification for the Jag
purchase! Trouble is, my wife has fallen in love with the Jag, so …
BobK

Bob Kerr, Phoenix AZ, USA
'76 Truimph TR6 OD (Carmine);
'83 Jaguar XJ6 Vanden Plas (Gold)
Arsenal Gunners FAN
“Relax…don’t worry…have a homebrew!”

From: Graham Watson grahamw@microsoft.com
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 08:11:09 -0700
Subject: RE: Sir William, noisy AC.

I had a similar problem, (A heavy build up of frost on the return pipe)
It was the temp sensor on the evaporator which wasn’t working, causing
the compressor to be on all the time. Before you spend any money, you
might just want to check that the compressor clutch is cutting in and
out as it maintains a sensible temperature, rather than trying to freeze
the pipework solid.

Graham

-----Original Message-----
From: Dawson, Barrie [SMTP:dawsonb@btcec3.agw.bt.co.uk]
Sent: Wednesday, October 02, 1996 3:22 PM
To: ‘jag-lovers-owner’
Subject: RE: Sir William, noisy AC.

Jim,

I have been experiencing the same thing with the AC on my series III . I
recently had the AC system rebuilt, compressor/condenser/dryer/various valves
& thermostats, everything was fine for about 5 months. I noticed a hissing
sound, inside the car, every time the compressor cut in. I checked under the
bonnet and noticed an increase in bubbles in the dryer sight glass and a
heavy build up of frost on the return pipe to the compressor. I checked this
out with my local AC specialist and he said the system was low on refrigerant
and needed topping up. Getting system recharged next week, ?40.00 should do
it.

Barrie Dawson
Chatham, Kent England
1985 series III Sovereign

From: jag-lovers-owner
To: jag-lovers
Subject: Sir William, noisy AC.
Date: 30 September 1996 16:24

The voice interview I mentioned on the pronounciation of Jaguar was an
interview with Sir William. I consider him the authority on the subject and
he said Jag-u-were.

I have a question about noise from freon flow in an AC system. I just got
my XJ6 back and I can hear the freon flow through the system. I didnt used
to be able to. I had this happen on a Ford Escort once after an AC repair.
Never knew why.

Is this curable? The AC works perfectly, its just that you can hear the
freon “sing” as it goes through the system. Its most noticable after you
shut the car off and the freon goes toward equilibrium.
                                                       Jim
“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 11:24:21 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: XJ6 SIII Speedo Error

This is a Mime message, which your current mail reader
may not understand. Parts of the message will appear as
text. To process the remainder, you will need to use a Mime
compatible mail reader. Contact your vendor for details.

–IMA.Boundary.145172448
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Description: cc:Mail note part

Easiest way is with a decent highway that has mile/km markers and a
stopwatch. In the US there are many locations that are identified by signs
as “measured miles” specifically so people can check their speedometer and
odometer. There happens to be one a couple of miles from my office. If
you use standard mileposts (kmposts?) you need to go a reasonable distance
for averaging since the highway department isn’t to fussy about exact
location. The measured miles, on the other hand, are accurate.

Call your local bureaucracy, they may have measured distances marked off
for you. Another handy set of markers available in many locations are the
stripes painted across the road used by airborne police to measure your
speed. If you have aerial cops, you should be able to get distances
between stripes and a nearby location from your local police station.

MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: XJ6 SIII Speedo Error
Author: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca at Internet
Date: 10/2/1996 2:17 AM

Since I’m having the same suspicions about my own
speedo, I am having a friend drive (following me) checking
my speeds at various increments.
Yeah, I know, and who is going to check his?
Prob. a cop!, it is an E you know.
Regards,
Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
'62 E-Type, ots

–IMA.Boundary.145172448–

From: Jana treadwel@ieway.com
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 1996 09:14:49 -0700
Subject: XJS cough & Sputter

Here I am again. I’m not having good luck with my cat. Heres the
scenario. The engine is warm from driving, the car is parked for 30
minutes, I try to restart it and it ignites but won’t idle. I have to
rabbit foot the accelerator for a minute or two. Along with this problem
my car is prone to overheat slightly from city driving. Any connections
between the two? I’ve had the car one year and already put $2000.00 in
repairs. I’d like to see my mechanic a little less often if possible.

Jana treadwel@ieway.com

From: DHarr13177@aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 12:26:55 -0400
Subject: oil pressure

My recently rebuilt 4.2 E type has 45 psi cold, 40-42 hot at 3,000 rpm with
10-40 castrol. Outside temp 50-70 F

The builder predicted 50 - 55 psi.

What pressure should a "new motor " have ? ( Stock, street driven)

The shop manual says 40 psi at 3,000 but doesn’t specify oil weight

The racing prep factory manual says 40 psi with 40w oil

This seems to low

How about a poll of members ? Just hit " reply " and the number of psi you
have

Thanks

 Doug

1966 E-Type

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 11:47:19 -0500
Subject: Wanted XJ6 SIII, XJ40

I`m interested to purchase Jaguar XJ6 SIII (1985 - 1987 only) or XJ40
(1988 - 1993). Important - left placed steering wheel! Colour and
interrior - any, possible. Power windows, doors etc. May be with or
without CD/radio.
Thanks for any response,
Mareks Malnacs.

You are going to be very disapointed in your purchase.

You mention color, power windows, and audio accessories. These are not the
things you should be concerned about when buying ANY car, Jaguar or not.

You are not addressing the items that need looking at. I suggest you
purchase a new Japanese car with the color of your choice and make sure it
is dealer maintained.

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: Barrie Dawson DAWSONB@btcec3.agw.bt.co.uk
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 96 18:19:48 -0700
Subject: RE:XJ40 vs SIII (quite long)

The current debate on the merits of the XJ40 & SIII is good to read and for my
money the SIII has it. I can only give a view based on my experiences of SIII
ownership and a friend who owns an XJ40. I have a 1985 SIII Sovereign, my
friend has an XJ40.

My SIII has 76500 miles behind it and a full Jaguar service history. Since I
bought it in 1994 I have done 16500 miles the like of which I have never
experienced before, I tell a lie 250 miles in a Rolls Royce Silver Shadow II.
When I bought the car there were several things wrong that needed attention:

i) Steering & front suspension needed some bushes and minor castor/camber
adjustments.
ii) Rear suspension trunion bearings.
iii) Replacement radiator and pump, originals clogged with BARRS LEAKS.
iv) Exhaust system, 11 years isn’t bad for an exhaust.
v) Recharging of A/C and a new compressor/condenser.
vi) Replacement headlamp wiper motors.
vii) Replacement gearbox reverse gear failed.

The interior has no noticeable wear and apart from mild chips/scratches the
paint work is perfect.

My friends 1990 XJ40 owned for 1 year however has 55000 miles on the clock and
full Jaguar service history. The ride in this car is now also typical of all
Jaguars but my friend is far from happy with it. He has had nothing but trouble:

i) New diff assembly and pair of driveshafts.
ii) New shocks all round.
iii) New front discs and 3 sets of front pads.
iv) 1 complete exhaust and an additional set of rear boxes.
v) 2 new drivers door exterior handles, the others snapped off.
vi) New drivers door mirror, motors packed up.
vii) Complete new A/C system.
viii) New bonnet and boot lid, originals rusted away.
ix) New front and rear screen seals.
x) Complete respray and not that good either.
xi) Replacement radiator, his also clogged with BARRS LEAKS.
xii) Replacement gearbox, front brake band failed.

The interior is also very good but then the car has been off the road for some
time.

I grant you there are many advances in the motor industry that the XJ40 holds
over the SIII but then the SIII is using the lessons of the past to deliver a
better product. I feel that Jaguar learnt a lot during the SI and SII, all of
which they put to good use in the SIII. But when Ford took over they tried to
put into practice a start from fresh approach on a save money basis. There are
a lot of features that are designed to improve service times but these are at the
expense of quality.

The main failing at first glance must be the styling or should I say lack of it
in the XJ40. Where are the curves, gone, given up to sharp corners and square
head lights. Sorry guys but the XJ40 is really ugly. The best thing about the
XJ40 is they kept making the XJS and SIII V12 to take our minds of it. Well what
now, the new XJ6 and the XK8, only time will tell at least the styling is back.

Barrie Dawson
Chatham, Kent England
1985 series III Sovereign

From: Steve Patchel spatchel@radford.com
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 10:47:55 -0700
Subject: Surviving California Smog Check

Group:

Brief Background

As most of you here in the US are aware, California is out to get all cars
older than 1990 off the road. This policy is being implemented by tightening
(reducing) the amount of emissions allowable. (Cars are checked every 2
years and also can not be sold without a valid smog certificate. This rule
applies to all cars produced after 1965.) Failure results in you being
unable to renew your vehicle registration, simply put: no registration = no
drive. Lots have been written about this, but that’s a different story.

My Story

I recently purchased a 70 E type and needless to say the DPO thought it
would pass our new smog test-wrong!! The car was identified as a “gross
polluter”, this is very bad and subjects you to all sorts of bs. It took me
4 weeks to get it all straitened out and finally get the car through the
system. Fortunately the PO had to pay the bill.

My suggestion to all of us here is California is to have the car “pretested”
and don’t depend on the fact that “the car passed last time”. Older Jags are
very prone to failing the test, especially if they have been tuned to “run”
rather than “pass” the emissions test. The tightened standards will make it
even harder to pass.

Resolving this problem with the emissions test could not have been done
without the assistance of the folks at European Stables in Redwood City, Ca.
They took the time to work with me and very much went the extra mile (or KM
depending on your location). They really understand Jags and have a
commitment to helping their customers. Prices are also quite fair.( I have
no vested interest in them) It seems like we are always looking for a shop
that does quality work.

I apologize to those of you outside of Norther California, but thought this
experience was worth relating.

There has been some talk of suspending these new smog test regulations, but
whose to say. I hope so, but won’t hold my breath.

Stephen Patchel
Consulting Practice Leader
Radford Associates
voice: 408-321-2540
fax: 408-321-2650

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 13:57:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: XJS V12 radiator flush

On Tue, 1 Oct 1996, Patrick Siu wrote:

I tried to flush the radiator yesterday and discovered that there is
no drain plug at the bottom of the radiator. Is this the original
design from Jaguar? Any advise on the best way to drain the radiator?

My 82 XJ-S has a radiator drain that you can open from the top. Look for
a metal rod over on the upper right side of the radiator. It might be
partially obscured by other stuff in the area. Twist the rod handle and
that’s it. Of course, often the best way to drain things is by pulling
the lower hose. I do this from the top, taking an extra 3 minutes to pull
the expansion tank, which by the way has no way to drain it to the bottom
(so you might as well pull it anyway). (I also brazed in standard
plumbing fittings to the expansion tank so that I can drain it without
pulling it from the car.)

John

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 14:41:09 -0005
Subject: Re: Alzheimers/Aluminum (no Jag content whatsoever)

Someone recently suggested you throw your AL pans away because use could
cause Alzeimers. To my knowledge there has never been any statistically
proven link between Al pan use and Alzeimers.

It has not been proven, but such “proof” is not what one should be
looking for. By the same token, tobacco has never been proven to
cause lung cancer! A better question might be: has aluminum been
proven to NOT cause Alzeimers. For my money, all my aluminum pots
and pans were donated to Goodwill several years back.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: cobac@ix.netcom.com
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 12:13:27 -0700
Subject: RE:XJ40 vs SIII (quite long)

At 06:19 PM 10/2/96 -0700, you wrote:

…Sorry guys but the XJ40 is really ugly.
Barrie Dawson
Chatham, Kent England
1985 series III Sovereign

Is it? Well, the ladys still seem to like it! Lexus and Mercedes owners
still give angry looks toward me occasionally (I guess they wanted a Jag,
but didn’t want Jag maintance costs!).

While on the subject, anyone see the CNN news poll about a year or two ago?
They interviewed women and asked what they thought was the sexyist car around.
What did the majority answer? Jaguar, of course! And what car did the news
reports show? That’s right!, a gorgeous late model XJ40 in kingfisher blue
with tan leather, with its owner waving at the camera!

Well, everyone’s entitled to their opinion!

cobac@ix.netcom
1989 XJ40 Vanden Plas (black/biscuit)

From: Peter Carpenter 106257.3334@CompuServe.COM
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 15:41:43 -0400
Subject: Bulb Failure Light XJ6/XJS

Hi Jim,

What are you like! I could have sworn you wrote the definitive XJ6 bumper
book?
Haynes, eh?, who needs 'em.

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
My XJ6 manual (Haynes…?) says that the clearance lights front and back

From: Peter Carpenter 106257.3334@CompuServe.COM
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 15:41:14 -0400
Subject: Vintage Restorations, Kent, UK

Does anyone have a kind word to say about this bunch?
They are into dashboards and instrument reconditioning.
They are busy - but I don’t know why… They are so damn rude and ‘too busy
to return your call’. Arrogance is no way to keep up a business, so FWIW I
recommend shoving a black mark against them.

Peter Carpenter
1967 420
UK

From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 16:29:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Alzheimers/Aluminum (no Jag content whatsoever)

On Oct 2, 2:41pm, Kirbert wrote:

It has not been proven, but such “proof” is not what one should be
looking for. By the same token, tobacco has never been proven to
cause lung cancer! A better question might be: has aluminum been
proven to NOT cause Alzeimers. For my money, all my aluminum pots
and pans were donated to Goodwill several years back.

My understanding was that aluminum was found in the brains of Alzeimers victims
but they did not know if it was cause or effect. I ditched our aluminum pans
too… Not going to wait to find out. But what about all that aluminum dust
from sanding and polishing the dash pots and valve covers on my E-type??? :-/
Maybe one day they’ll find it in my brain…

Mark McChseashedf err McCheaseghfiysdf… what ever

From: paul r martin martinpr@secis.com
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 1996 15:37:18 -0700
Subject: 1994 vanden plas

I have a 1994 vdp that I have just repaired . It was salvaged but I had
littel trouble and expense restoring it. Now what a beeeeeutifull auto.
My wife has taken it over. She looks so good in it that I’m frightened
to let her out of my sight.(jokeing). I need instruction on replacing
the spent passenger side (right) air bag. I purchased it ($1200 us) and
I would like to install it , there is no electrical connection. Any help?
Also there is a sound (viberating pump type) from right side firewall?
Dealer said ABS (breaks) pump. Is there a cure for this very anoying
loud sound.thanks Paul Martin ,Hoover Alabama USA.

PS: have connection for slightly damaged late model Jags.
sunn46a@prodigy.com

From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 1996 17:04:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Alzheimers/Aluminum (no Jag content whatsoever)

For my money, all my aluminum pots
and pans were donated to Goodwill several years back.

Oh, great! Now I’ll get it!
{:>)
Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
'62 E-Type, ots

From: hdrsons@iamerica.net (Hal Rogers)
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 1996 16:17:25 -0600
Subject: Re: Vintage Restorations, Kent, UK

At 03:41 PM 10/2/96 -0400, Peter Carpenter wrote:

Does anyone have a kind word to say about this bunch?
They are into dashboards and instrument reconditioning.
They are busy - but I don’t know why… They are so damn rude and ‘too busy
to return your call’. Arrogance is no way to keep up a business, so FWIW I
recommend shoving a black mark against them.

Peter Carpenter
1967 420
UK

I bumped into some of their reconditioned guages in a MG K3 last
year.(literally) Not much room under the dash of one. The guages worked
fine…but I don’t know about their makers!

Regards,
Hal

Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
Import Auto Specialists
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax

Serving Auto Enthusiasts since 1959

From: “Phil Patton” ppatton@ibm.net
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 96 16:34:57 -0500
Subject: XJS A/C Servo Connections

The PO of my '86 XJS had gotten the vacuum hoses
connected with the A/C control goofed up while
trying to repair a problem with the A/C. There
is a black hose and a red hose comming from under
the servo that appear to connect to a green and
a white hose. Does anyone know the correct
connection for these hoses? Also the original
problem is still there. The servo “jogs” back and
forth rather than attaining the desired posistion
and stopping. I replaced the A/C control amplifier
(expensive!) but this had no effect. Any ideas
where I should look next. It appears that if one
of the temp. sensors where bad the servo would run
to one extreme or the other and then stop. Is it
possible that this is caused by a bad servo
feedback pot?
Many thanks to the group for your help.

Phil

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #398

X-UIDL: 01dc77815515b368cc73219ad74e8342
Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4)
id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Thu, 3 Oct 1996 04:13:52 +0200 (MET DST)
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 04:13:52 +0200 (MET DST)
Message-Id: 199610030213.EAA28502@ekeberg.sn.no
X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f
From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #399
Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Precedence: bulk
Status: RO
X-Status:
X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest

jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 3 October 1996 Volume 02 : Number 399

1994 vdp
Re: Jags at Bathurst
Re: Alzheimers/Aluminum (no Jag content whatsoever)(Bad news)
XK8 Screen Saver
XK-8 (I came, I saw, I left) (long)
Re: Jags at Bathurst
Re: TWR JAGUAR XJS’s AT BATHURST (1985).
Re: XJ-S help needed
Bulb Failure Light XJ6/XJS
Starting Problem
XJ40 - Brake accumulator
RE: TWR JAGUAR XJS’s AT BATHURST (1985).
Re: XJS cough & Sputter
XJ6 bulb failure light
Re: 90 xj6 bulb failure light
A caution for Sydney Jag owners (XJ6 in particular)

From: SNUU46A@prodigy.com (MR PAUL R MARTIN)
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 17:04:47, -0500
Subject: 1994 vdp

Sorry I’m new at this . May have sent several times.

I have a 1994 vdp that I have just repaired . It was salvaged but I
had
little trouble and expense restoring it. Now what a beeeeeutifull
auto.
My wife has taken it over. She looks so good in it that I’m
frightened
to let her out of my sight.(joking). I need instruction on replacing
the spent passenger side (right) air bag. I purchased it ($1200 us)
and
I would like to install it , there is no electrical connection. Any
help?
Also there is a sound (vibrating pump type) from right side fire wall?

Dealer said ABS (breaks) pump. Is there a cure for this very annoying

loud sound.thanks Paul Martin ,Hoover Alabama USA.

PS: have connection for slightly damaged late model Jags.
snuu46a@prodigy.com

From: Derek Hibbs Derek.Hibbs@wizardis.com.au
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 08:44:34 +1000
Subject: Re: Jags at Bathurst

Robert,

Our club has two VHS tapes that cover Jags at Bathurst. I haven’t seen them
yet but email me if you are interested and I’ll get more info to you.

Regards,
Derek Hibbs
Canberra, Australia
77 XJ-S

From: pbrown@sbnsw.com.au
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 96 8:47:47 +60000
Subject: Re: Alzheimers/Aluminum (no Jag content whatsoever)(Bad news)

Ever wondered what they put in anti-perspirant? Aluminium!
Dilemma: Keep your mind or your friends?
Peter Brown

From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 1996 15:49:03 -0700
Subject: XK8 Screen Saver

Does anyone have the XK8 screen saver. I couldn’t find it on the main
site.

Thanks

========================================================
Michael P. Neal ASE Master Technician, Jaguar Certified
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
http://www.wco.com/~mneal (always under construction:-)

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 14:00:11 -0500
Subject: XK-8 (I came, I saw, I left) (long)

Well, the long anticipated day finally arrived yesterday. As a long time
Jag Lover who endured the demise of the E-Type and the disappointment of
the introduction of the XJ-S, and who has patiently waited for a couple of
decades for the introduction of a new “sports car”, my invitation to the
premier showing was burning a hole in my pocket.

The local “launch” featured a BRG coupe, a bright blue convertible, lots of
beverages, hors d’oeuvres, guests and one probable big mistake (more on
that later.)

My initial impression (with a little background first so you’ll have an
idea of my bias.) Many years ago I bought a 59 MGA as my first car. I
looked covetously at the big Healys, and could scarcely dream of a
XK-120/140/150. I was in high school when the E-Type was introduced.
While my classmates read Hot Rod, I was busy with Sports Car Graphic.
After '61 my dreams were recalibrated. The E-Type was the only dream.
Life goes on, and six years out of college I bought my dream, a brand new
Series3 OTS. Shortly after, the XJ-S was introduced. My reaction was
significant disappointment in the styling. Reading all the magazine
articles demonstrated I wasn’t alone. Even the most enthusiastic had no
kind words for the style, the flying buttresses being especially damned.
The years move on and the XJ-S steadily improves in many ways, with sales
rising well here in the States. Meanwhile I harbor no desire to own one.
The looks simply don’t appeal to me. Now it’s 1988. I still have my
beloved E-Type. One afternoon I stop by the Jag dealer’s parts department
to pick up a fuel filter and a couple of gaskets for the E (naturally.) On
the way out I walked through the showroom and was stopped dead in my tracks
by a Grenadier Red XJ-S convertible. (The “factory authorized” Hess &
Eisenhardt version.) It looked completely transformed. Once again, an
instant reprogramming of my automotive aspirations. I drove straight home,
held up a gasket, and said “Honey, see this? This is the most expensive
gasket you will ever see!” Yep, the garage definitely is more symmetrical
with a Jag V-12 on both sides.

So now it’s 1996. The XK-8s are beautiful vehicles, the fit and finish is
better than any Jag I’ve ever seen. But they just don’t tug at my heart.
The exterior styling is attractive, but kind of bland. The front fenders
(wings) hint at previous Jags, as does the hood (bonnet). I guess the
grill opening is supposed to hint at the E-Type, with its oval shape and
horizontal bar. But it is significantly marred by two large rectangular
rubber protrusions. Once you get past the A pillar, its basically just
another '90s streamlined bean. No matter where I stood, it never shouted
“I’m a Jag and proud of it.” Virtually every other Jag, except for the
XJ-40 (sorry guys), is readily identified as a Jag from a distance by
people who can’t tell the difference between a Ford and a Chevy.
Strangely, I liked the looks of the coupe better than the convertible (this
from died in the wool folding top person.)

The engine compartment is strangely barren when you open the hood. In the
center is a tangle of black intake runners, surrounded by cosmetic engine
covers/shields that hide all the wiring and plumbing. Nothing really to
look at.

My reaction to the interior is mixed. Like any recent Jag, it is
scrumptious. Beautiful, supple leather, shining veneer, real analog
instruments, shining veneer, a neatly organized radio stack, shining
veneer, a ton of switches and lots of veneer. Did I mention the veneer?
Oh, yes. There’s plenty of it. Enough for several XJ-6s. Way to much of
it, in fact. The center three instruments (clock, oil pressure and
battery) almost look lost in the midst of this huge plank of wood that
extends the width of the car. The main binnacle has a centered
speedometer, with a smaller tach to the left and a tach-sized combo fuel
level and temperature on the right. All the instruments are legible and
traditional white on black. It would be much better if the tach was the
same size as the speedometer. The others are a bit small for their
distance from the driver and would be more legible if they were angled
toward the driver’s seat. The seats are very comfortable, and fully
adjustable thanks to lots of electric motors. The XK-8 also has two
position memory, so the seats, mirrors and tilt/telescope wheel can be
preset for two drivers. The tilt wheel automatically rises out of the way
for entry or exit (there is a switch position on its adjustment knob to
disable this feature.) The wheel is the same basic combo wood and leather
wheel on the high end XJ-6s. I still hate it fiercely. The rear seat in
the coupe is the functional equivalent of the XJ-S coupe’s rear seat. The
rear seat in the convertible is a cruel joke. They could probably be sued
for advertising it as having more than two seats. The boot that covers the
convertible top when it’s down can only be removed by opening the trunk,
something I found a bit odd. One convertible in the lot had its top up.
It fit very nicely and was quite taut. The car was locked, so I couldn’t
get a good look at the inside of the top.
Continuing back, the trunk (boot) is fairly spacious. It looks larger than
my XJ-S trunk. There is a pull-up panel covering a full size spare fitted
in a sunken well under the trunk floor. Also in the trunk is a monstrously
big battery. Looks like it belongs in a large diesel truck. Not likely
you’ll find a replacement anywhere handy. There is also a large box that
contains a lot of relays, fuses and other electrical/electronic goodies.
Close the lid and the rear looks like half the current Fords. Not as oddly
oval as a Taurus, but sort of generic jellybean.

So, the overall is:

Plus: Flawless fit and finish. All the controls are easily reached from
the driver’s seat. Everything you touch seems to have a nice “feel”, it’s
mostly wood or leather. The controls and switchgear seem more harmonized
in feel than my XJ-S. They are both very attractive cars. In many ways,
they look better in the sheet metal than they did in pictures. I’ll go
back tomorrow if I get a chance to drive one and see it outside without the
crowd.

Minus: Generic styling. While it looks attractive, I wonder how it will
“wear.” When I park my eight year old XJ-S it still regularly draws
admirers. When I park my twenty-two year old E-Type it draws a crowd, as
will any XK. I often see people stop to admire XJ-6s (series1-3). Ten or
twenty (or two) years from now will anyone even pause to look at an XK-8?
Or will it be just another bean?
Too much wood. Half the vertical height of wood would be more than enough.
Very large black plastic A/C outlets mounted high in the center don’t help.

What I’d really like: a modest restyling outside to get rid of the rubber
things in the front opening (offer a dealer installed E-Type AAMCO bar for
people who parallel park in the city) and inject some genuine Jag styling
cues. Maybe a touch of gentle upwards rounding of the rear fenders to hint
at the E-Type. Like they hinted at it in the front. Introduce an XK-8S
sports model. Throw away all the electrically adjustable stuff, I never
move my seat anyway. Keep the power windows and exterior mirrors only.
Toss the rear seat from the convertible. A simple carpeted shelf, possibly
with a locking bin like the early XJ-S convertibles would be lighter,
cheaper and much more functional. Put in a 5 or 6 speed manual, a simpler
console (you don’t need a leather covered hydraulic ashtray or cup holders,
if you really want a sports version you don’t smoke while you drive and the
cups would never stay in the holder anyway.) Anyway, you get the idea.

Finally (at last) the big mistake:

Featured with the two XK-8s was a “never-been-titled” '74 E-Type OTS. In
fact, the exact same car that was sitting on the showroom floor 22 years
ago when I purchased my E.

Why a mistake? Because half the crowd spent more time looking at the
E-Type than the XK-8s. I can’t begin to tell you how many times I heard
people say they’d rather buy the E than the -8. Wives were dragging
husbands over, asking why not look at this one? Husbands were dragging
wives over, saying how that’s the Jag they always wanted. It was kind of
funny and sad at the same time. In many ways the E-Type stole the show.

MikeC

From: R.R.Thomas@chem.utas.edu.au (Rick Thomas)
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 09:59:56 +1100
Subject: Re: Jags at Bathurst

The Jags gave Bathurst some international class, it was a memorable race. I
would love to seem them back again.

This Sunday all we will see is Ford Falcon and Holden Commodore V8’s doing
battle on the Mount. A pride of Jaguar V12’s would really add some spice to
the “Great Race”.

Rick Thomas.

From: Jim Ellis jellis@metz.une.edu.au
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 09:07:31 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: TWR JAGUAR XJS’s AT BATHURST (1985).

G’day from Oz,

    I am an ex-Bathurst resident and watched the 1985 race live from the

top of Mount Panorama (the best spot IMHO). The A. Hahne / J. Goss Jaguar
XJS won this race. I do have a video of the race - Channel 7, the
Broadcaster also market each year, a video containing the highlights from
each race. As far as I know, these are still available and I could obtain
details of the availability etc. if necessary.

P.S. You can get information (both curent and historical) on the ‘AMP 1000’
(as it is now known - another change of sponsor!) on the Web at :

    http://www.ozemail.com.au/~ardc/

cheers,

Jim Ellis.

(1963 Daimler 2.5 v8 .)

At 09:28 AM 2/10/96 +0200, you wrote:

From: Robert Bradley Robert.Bradley@bh.eyi.com
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 01:42:49 -0500
Subject: Jags at Bathurst

What was the year the XJS won (I seem to remember it did once).

1984 I think but you bring back fond memories. Magnificent race to watch.
off. Beautiful stuff - anyone got a tape?

Robert Bradley
82 XJ, 82 Daimler, 82 XJ-S

Jim Ellis
Internal Auditor
University of New England,
N.S.W. 2351.
AUSTRALIA.

'phone: (067) 733497;
[national: +61 67 733497;]

fax: (067) 733314;

e-mail: jellis@metz.une.edu.au

From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 12:15:44 GMT
Subject: Re: XJ-S help needed

In message 199609291920.OAA17525@mail.utexas.edu JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell) writes:

What is the effect of the air cleaners being mounted backwards in the
housings? When I removed them I noticed that the PO had them installed
backwards (with the “front” arrow pointing to the rear). Maybe he drove in
reverse alot.

There are blanking plates for backfire protection (?) on the back. Two
two different types of air cleaners exist with the blanking plate on the back
in different positions dependent on whether your car has ABS or not. On the
ones with ABS, the filter housings are moved towards the front of the car
because one of them would otherwise foul the vacuum reservoir/pump assembly
for the brakes.

Get air cleaner elements which, when fitted, will have the blanking plate
exactly over the hole of the intake. Perversely enough, this apparently
allows the engine to breathe better - the fuel consumption of mine went
down by about 1l/100km after fitting the correct filters correctly.

Regards,

Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 1996 17:57:54 -0500
Subject: Bulb Failure Light XJ6/XJS

What are you like! I could have sworn you wrote the definitive XJ6 bumper
book?
Haynes, eh?, who needs 'em.

The Haynes manual is not much good, but it does have pictures and 70% of the
time they are right. Thats why I wrote the XJ6 Book, to correct some of the
deficiencies of the Haynes Manual. The Jaguar manual is not much better
than the Haynes manual. Both have their failure modes, but they are a start
when nothing else works.

Besides, where do you think I got the RIGHT answers, not from the manual I hope?

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: Dennis Beisswanger beiss@ix.netcom.com
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 1996 20:32:11 -0700
Subject: Starting Problem

Hi,

I have an intermitent starting problem with my 82 XJ6 SIII 4.2. On
average, in about 1 in 15 starting attempts all I get is a hum (fuel
pump?). After 1 or more retrys, with sometimes wiggling a battery cable
or relay wire, it starts and runs fine. I have cleaned and tightened
the battery connections including the ground to the body, engine to body
ground and also the starter/solenoid connections. I tested the ignition
switch (when it was in a “no start” condition). I tested the inhibitor
switch per the Haynes manual. I replaced the negative battery cable and
replaced the starter with a rebuilt one (2 weeks with no problems after
this; I thought it was solved). The battery was replaced last winter.
This has been going on for about 10 months.

What other part should I replace that doesn’t need to be? Starter
relay?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

From: ajbeale@squirrel.com.au (A.J. Beale)
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 00:42:05 GMT
Subject: XJ40 - Brake accumulator

Michael: The accumulator is located under the RHS of the car near the
front. It is in unit with an aluminium block containing two switches - the
low pressure warning switch and the charge switch. Two hydraulic tubes
connect into the aluminium block and the assembly is anchored by a steel
clamp around the accumulator.
First, it is probably a good idea to disconnect the battery earth lead and
the book says to do that. Next, pump the brake pedal about 30 times to
fully discharge the accumulator - the pedal should go hard. Under the
bonnet (hood) in the vicinity of the air conditioner’s drier bottle (that’s
the thing you check to see if the air conditioner needs recharging) you will
find an electrical connector, with 4 leads coming out of it. Double check
that you have found the one with the leads going down to the accumulator
assembly. Cut the plastic ratchet type wire tie that is holding it in place
and disconnect the connector. Feed the lower half of the connector down to
where you can get hold of it from under the car. Now jack up the front of
the car about 6 inches and ensure that it is safe to get under. From under
the car, first thoroughly clean up around the hydraulic tube connections to
the accumulator’s aluminium block (in this job, cleanliness comes before
godliness) disconnect the two tubes (after first noting how far the nuts
screw into the block, for reference in re-assembly) and move them out of the
way, but avoid bending them as that will make the re-assembly more
difficult. Little or no oil will escape. Note that there is a bracket
which one of the tubes goes through in connecting to the aluminium block.
Loosen the accumulator clamp bolt and it will be no problem to remove the
assembly. The rest is the way it looks, with a good filter wrench being as
good as anything to remove the old accumulator from the block and tighten up
the new one, but be very careful to avoid any possibility of damage to the
aluminium block. Because of the way the assembly is held in position on the
car, there is no danger of the accumulator unscrewing while in service.
Before continuing, it is not a bad idea to drop a blunt probe down through
the hole into the old accumulator and see how far it goes. I’m not sure how
far it should go in a new accumulator, but on a blown one it will probably
go right to the end, indicating that the bladder has blown. Reconnecting
the tubes can be a little awkward, with more than a fair chance of cross
threading. The threads are fine and it’s not easy to see what you are
doing. Any sign of resistance early in tightening is almost certainly an
indication of cross threading, so undo and start again. On re-assembly it
is easiest to not fully tighten the clamp bolt holding the accumulator,
until the hydraulic connections are nipped up - you may need to jiggle the
thing a little to get the nuts started in the right direction. Good luck
and I apologise if I have overdone the minor instructions. The job is quite
easy and should not take more than about half an hour if all goes well. Alan.

From: “Sleeman, Chris” C.Sleeman@praxa.com.au
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 11:02:03 +1000
Subject: RE: TWR JAGUAR XJS’s AT BATHURST (1985).

All,

I was born and bred in Bathurst. Perhaps that’s what started my interest
in cars…

My wife and I went to the big race last year. I was really disappointed
that they only have the V8s in the race now. It found it a lot less
interesting than it used to be.

A few years ago there were cars entered from all over the world, and in
several classes now we only have Australian meat-head V8s. I think they
have ruined the essence of the event.

My suggestion - enter the 2.0L super tourers and allow international
entries such as Jaguars (well, especially Jaguars!).

I wonder if they would allow a Jag with a 307 chevy? - Sarcasm.

Regards,

Chris Sleeman
c.sleeman@praxa.com.au

PS Jim - thanks for the location of the web site

From: “Robert Johnson, D.Sc.” bjomejag@sover.net
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 1996 21:52:50 -0500
Subject: Re: XJS cough & Sputter

Jana wrote:

Here I am again. I’m not having good luck with my cat. Heres the
scenario. The engine is warm from driving, the car is parked for 30
minutes, I try to restart it and it ignites but won’t idle. I have to
rabbit foot the accelerator for a minute or two. Along with this problem
my car is prone to overheat slightly from city driving. Any connections
between the two?

More specifics of the vehicle would help in giving feedback.

It is possible that the overheating is driving the water temp sensor
to shut down the pulse width from the ECU. Pumping the accelerator
allows running on the throttle change pulses untill water circulates
to cool down the temp sensor. Possibly flushing the cooling system,
checking for obstructions to air flow, and assuring the overtemp fan
is functional will elliminate the overheating and the related poor hot
start.

Hope this helps,
Bob Johnson
XJS, XJ12L, XJ50

From: “John Littler” auibmdak@ibmmail.com
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 1996 21:57:52 EDT
Subject: XJ6 bulb failure light

If the bulbs are OK check the wiring - if it’s cutting in on acceleration
perhaps there’s a wire that’s loose and losing contact. The bulb failure
also checks ALL your bulbs (or at least it does on my 84 XJ6) so maybe
its the number plate light or a blinker.
John

we have a 90 xj6 that has a bulb failure light that comes on most times
brakes are applied. installed all new factory bulbs in rear of vehicle an
light still comes on. also light comes on at times when you acceel. any
thoughts???

Level 1, 29-57 Christie St.
St Leonards NSW 2065
Ph: +61-2-9937-8063 Fax: +61-2-9937-8100
Mobile +61-419-617-619

From: scoleman@pcl.net (Steve Coleman)
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 1996 20:52:09 -0500
Subject: Re: 90 xj6 bulb failure light

IBVILLIN@aol.com wrote:

we have a 90 xj6 that has a bulb failure light that comes on most times when
brakes are applied. installed all new factory bulbs in rear of vehicle and
light still comes on. also light comes on at times when you acceel. any
thoughts???
A similar problem on my '88 XJ40 was due to cracked solder joints in one
of the brake light/signal light control modules, located just in front
of the rear light housings behind the carpet. I resoldered each joint
on the circuit board (took about 10 minutes per module) and this fixed
the problem.

Steve Coleman
1987 XJ6 x2

From: “John Littler” auibmdak@ibmmail.com
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 1996 22:13:29 EDT
Subject: A caution for Sydney Jag owners (XJ6 in particular)

As a word of warning for those who are looking for good jag mechanics in
Sydney - Cremorne Prestige in Artarmon,Sydney, shouldn’t be your first
point of call. The quality of work HAS been GOOD, BUT following my last
visit, I’m convinced that they aren’t playing square with me (and
presumably the rest of their customers) I had my XJ6 engine rebuilt by
them (although I’ll probably never know whether it really needed doing).
At the end of the 1000km run in period it took it back to them to have
the head tightened and the oil changed. I mentioned that since the work
was done there was a transmission fluid leak (not previously there). They
told me when I picked up the car that they’d “tightened the transmission
up but that the leak was probably because the power steering pinion seal
was leaking”
I KNOW that can’t be right because the leak was evidencing itself near
the bell housing…a little far back for the power steering seals to be
the cause (unless there’s some really weird physics happening under the
bonnet of Jags).
So I’d suggest if you’re going to use them only do so if you’re really
knowledgeableabout what you want - there prices do appear to be
reasonable but if you can’t trust them…
John

Level 1, 29-57 Christie St.
St Leonards NSW 2065
Ph: +61-2-9937-8063 Fax: +61-2-9937-8100
Mobile +61-419-617-619

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #399

Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4)
id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Thu, 3 Oct 1996 17:10:47 +0200 (MET DST)
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 17:10:47 +0200 (MET DST)
Message-Id: 199610031510.RAA02086@ekeberg.sn.no
X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f
From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #400
Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Precedence: bulk
X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest

jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 3 October 1996 Volume 02 : Number 400

Re: XK-8 (I came, I saw, I left) (long)
Re: 90 xj6 bulb failure light
RE:XJ40 vs SIII
Currency Conversion (Very Little Jag Content)
XJ-S Book Size
Re: XJ-S help needed
re: A caution for Sydney Jag owners (XJ6 in particular)
RE: oil pressure
oil pressure
Re: Starting problems
Re: XK8 Screen Saver
Re: Starting problems
Re: Jaguar specialists on the Web
Re: Jaguar specialists on the Web
Re: Alzheimers/Aluminum (no Jag content whatsoever)
[XK8] - UK only - Top Gear Reminder
RE:XJ40 vs SIII (the reality)
bleeding brakes
[none]
XK-8 versus Aston-Martin

From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 22:53:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: XK-8 (I came, I saw, I left) (long)

I’ve been informed that I need to clear yet another space in the
collection. My boss went to the debut. He saw. He left. After placing an
order. I’ll post impressions after a through inspection. It will be a
while, though. Supposedly the car is to be built next week. So, Tez,
if you spot a black-coffee-black convertible coming down the line with
a eastern US destination, how about tieing a coke bottle up inside a
fender cavity for me? :>

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

From: RMac@aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 23:30:37 -0400
Subject: Re: 90 xj6 bulb failure light

Donald R. Farr wrote"

we have a 90 xj6 that has a bulb failure light that comes on most
times when brakes are applied.

I’ve had a similar problem with my 91 Sovereign that reappears like a
ghost from time to
time with never a satisfactory answer. I usually “cure” it by
slamming the driver door (I suggest doing this at stop lights, not
while going around a curve at 90mph).

I’m all ears to what others have to say.

In my four months of ownership that damned bulb failure light has gone on
over half a dozen times – but four of those were burned out bulbs! I also
have an intermittent connection in the courtesy lamp in the trunk (boot)
which the car insists on telling me about.

Never, however, have I had a false alarm. In every case it has been a
genuine bulb failure or its equivalent.

Other than problems stemming directly from the neglect of the PO, it is the
only hassle the car has given me. (“Wait a while,” I hear you all
saying…)
. . . .

Jim Isbell wrote:

the Haynes manual for the XJS seems to indicate that only the
Brake lights are monitored.
Does anyone have the true information?

I can tell you from experience that the license plate, fog lamps, and trunk
courtesy lights are monitored, but not all the time… Fog lamps only when
switched on, for instance. Other lamps have a logic I haven’t figured out.

Robert MacLeay
'90 XJ40 vdp Majestic

“So how come we had 50 choices for Miss America, but only two for President
of the United States?” – A.E. Neuman

From: RMac@aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 1996 23:30:39 -0400
Subject: RE:XJ40 vs SIII

Barrie Dawson ranted:

I feel that Jaguar learnt a lot during the SI and SII, all of
which they put to good use in the SIII. But when Ford took over they tried
to
put into practice a start from fresh approach on a save money basis. There
are
a lot of features that are designed to improve service times but these are
at the
expense of quality.

For the record, the development of the XJ40 preceeded Ford’s aquisition of
Jaguar by several years. Everyone agrees Jaguar’s quality has improved since
the purchase. This is a result of Ford management, perhaps?

I am satisfied with the reliability of my car, and have no desire to live
with the grief which I hear described in so many of these missives. As for
appearance, I honestly don’t get your worship of the SIII. I always thought
the S1 had the purer lines, especially in the greenhouse. My car impresses
the hell out of people – neighbors I’s never spoken with came by to
congratulate me on its purchase. Good enough.

Robert MacLeay
'90 XJ40 vdp Majestic
(formerly) numerous Fords and Lincolns

From: “George W. Cohn” gwcohn@azstarnet.com
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 1996 22:17:04 -0700
Subject: Currency Conversion (Very Little Jag Content)

From time to time we bandy about costs of various projects here and since
this is a world-wide group, It’s sometimes difficult to relate the cost
in another country to your local exchange rate. Surf on over to
Currency Encyclopedia | Xe and you can convert any currency to your local
currency in real-time. This might come in handy for those using the
Jag/Daimler Used Parts Exchange.

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 03:15:15 -0005
Subject: XJ-S Book Size

I recently have been having some problems printing my XJ-S book.
Then I installed some more RAM, bringing the total up from 16MB to
32MB – and my printing problems went away. I’m sure there’s a
driver problem somewhere, no size of file should cause system
lockups, it should just start caching. However, I do wonder how far
out into untested ground I am getting; the file is about 1.3MB these
days, and showing no signs of slowing growth. Is there a limit to
MS-Word file size?

Is anybody else having trouble with its size? I got a message from
somebody saying their system froze after they scanned to a particular
page, but I dunno why. I also dunno what I’d do about it; since the
document is full of cross-references, I can’t very easily break it
into multiple documents. And since half the cross-references are to
figures, I can’t easily pull the illustrations out and make them
separate files.

While I may claim to know a thing or two about the XJ-S, I still feel
like an amateur on MS-Word.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 03:15:17 -0005
Subject: Re: XJ-S help needed

Stefan Schulz:

There are blanking plates for backfire protection(?) on the back.
Two different types of air cleaners exist with the blanking plate
on the back in different positions dependent on whether your car
has ABS or not.

Reportedly, the K&N filters for the XJ-S do not have the blank-off,
and therefore the same filter fits either ABS or non-ABS cars. The
K&N filter has fabric between aluminum mesh and is certified as a
flame arrestor for boating applications, perhaps that’s why it
doesn’t need the blank-off.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: pbrown@sbnsw.com.au
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 96 17:17:48 +60000
Subject: re: A caution for Sydney Jag owners (XJ6 in particular)

begin 600 attach.Z
M’YV0:=R,>7/&31HZ;URTF7,&@,.‘$"-G$BQHL6+&“N"V&@#!@P0#:"B$&# M!DB1)$V&%"F2!HP:,3C*D$'#AHT:-&..E!&#9$@8&8,*'4JTZ,0Z<^B$D;,1 M)LW8*P,4KQ:=2I5±JW<JUJ]>O69&D:'D#1HW+!HH:)+F#!HZ(,247’G
MC1PZ:$”<4.'3LS(-ZXF?O&#B;^;,;9-&CAR[<P[`1$&1%I:RB[(7,X
MS)JYE<^></YZ9LU+D`H",&3ADY;L+XM5.&31[-()Q(:1($1,`Y<,J,\2L8
M!`K=O’U’QCOW<1C.BN7823.&L)PS80S.D9VF>$#5>–$AK,4;N’#:.;6E<.&
M3`K<(-4(1)#QL>!==K’!:UW-.>`M"751AENP)6&8YT0F0)DI,&@
M&XF5$=E2<\V!5’##I1:$&:XQU<9M4R@%&(%G!1>&)')4888=:31&@A)]&<@
M7&$,49F=QR4EP))U6&&&65P!L<;=[QFF6NO_659&5±D1H5Z8’@HH:M_0""
M?$34X!$(9MA%&0B#W6&ECIEEQQF%JKF(GQR48;=;W`E"“,=8Z3’U!UHO`%”
MA/1D5H1U_GIQ!-“/$%$%G’5`=>`A[U11YX6@C`B”%‘!J5IV>;1A5QFI)4&’ M@V/"<=!ME1%I)AFDG7’;@'EF1]UR80149Y6BD2:9A2ZH=81(+`QZ1IJ0<&7
MDD(=H<;:C6K@`AEG04"$P?1P<9K(H#`0Q@QBM$&&9X!D8:W;=3A@L#M>$#
M"%<\YIH.:O$!0KQ;7DB779R===2!KD!6)A,(18GGWYB&.QH:S@)<'^ZTJL&
M@Y8AX:L8T06$+U3Y$'&8+>U`,(0+GHVUQ07.G77KY-%L1=2WF5L8;EY$’
M"Y;UF=_&)!%KUP@Y"$I4V8TEA2]1]H:F&%7G0L"E7/%48=4IQY]KQR9(1’$
M%/L1",(13RALQ!54#&O`O*&R<93/?IKZ6ULL$@‘O=/-<1#-29S0!J:“32=0
MD>C)AI[,E+GH1LX@P-%V’D[.X;3!/>(UMKR0HJ`FT5?64:X8MOUMI87F(9A>
M8Y@BA=”`<+Y7X\2<78J%$C8#@FX.HXPXYD$O<W=+WIK-;M%XPMF%/Y8C
MYK<-1AM3:U!H)I]\Z>D;7"YE3F]@Q7)-ZM_I=`KV5O>.A>!^7H^5PP>P;#&
MW7+4,=EWP<G17:"1GO9\7&A&ZCKN]D],V^U5IO?<86UY"X’XIB;-O4%&F)J8
MOXH4JH@5J#N#X0Q>_$8ON>U-<^LA%O?V%1E6#>9O+J(+B\9$!SED9PZ,F8/<
MBF,&8:6A-%##`HHI#/NP<%%TY’4’#+‘’!=I;VGIL1WW$(?2#%O,C4RU8[X
M5@<X:“Y3??->'D[`&1&<3(`1O%^52GC”%Z06=QK8J-NY;<$7<LS(AR/,)`
MO/U$!2ES2="1DL24"C+)?6HSE4&HQBIT(N#P8KA7T1`KQHMX5!7B"FLD,X
MGKG/+3@2#K?B9,88IO%UTR$#@<;@)'H=1#%L,Q@EL_N<@%>#:SX!E<P$H7
M5(8-U;H6F)9"OQV!24QR1)2[%B&)JFMCVQ8CI_D4LI%PM$XZKN6"D%8!E±
MX0V0BM[9;I.DQA@)#7F06\5<-S$X!=?@%&?)@.6GIT)9C"=(PN#YJ`]C/FI
M;M"IPQGVDA3?&,9G=3A!"$7C)(2`X)CX$TSF6&49/QW(=?C49W.@-$UZ)0])
MUR+#7MAX1C%("BY\AL^15@@$'BLAW.Y(74J1=`P>!-=1SB,M`K^@],S:8
M,Z6C[-DS22UR<'57SUQU\J>TBM:8)07O9A0!MJP820TDT$.6E"#&WP,#>Y+
M2AKF4J+MR:M$TRJ#8)9"AL@X80J)M,]-Z`4%-.@`!“NP00Q:((,6Y”`’,[A!
M"W```QO,8"-&“`,>SIK6M;;UK7&=_E@0\FO$$,II+7UM`@Q@L5:UR56L.
MZ46L%CVLIC-K&8WR]G.>O:SH`VM:$=+VM:]K2H3:UJ5\O:UKKVM;”-K6QG
M2]O:VO:VN,VM;G?+V][Z]K?`#:YPATO<XAKWN,A-KG7R]SF.O>YT(VN==+
MW>I:][K8S:YVM\O=[GKWN^`-KWC’2][RFO>\Z$VO>M?+WO:Z][WPC:]\YTO?
&^MKWOD,!
`
end

From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 09:28 +0100
Subject: RE: oil pressure

Hello all,
my rebuilt E-type engine gives 30-40 psi at idle and 55 at 2000 rpm with=20
20W-50 Castrol (hot) at 15 to 20 deg. C outside temp. 55 psi seems to be the=20=

pressure where the overload valve of the pump opens. Of coarse, the gauge=20
must be calibrated against a mechanical gauge, which I did at 40 psi. I=20
built a small test rig for that so I can do that off the car.
Frans.

My recently rebuilt 4.2 E type has 45 psi cold, 40-42 hot at 3,000 rpm=20
with
10-40 castrol. Outside temp 50-70 F

The builder predicted 50 - 55 psi.

What pressure should a "new motor " have ? ( Stock, street driven)

The shop manual says 40 psi at 3,000 but doesn’t specify oil weight

The racing prep factory manual says 40 psi with 40w oil

This seems to low

How about a poll of members ? Just hit " reply " and the number of psi=20
you
have

Thanks
 Doug
1966 E-Type

=20

From: “Alastair Lauener” a.lauener@napier.ac.uk
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 96 09:31:33 gmt
Subject: oil pressure

Doug,

My recently rebuilt 4.2 E type has 45 psi cold, 40-42 hot at 3,000 rpm with
10-40 castrol. Outside temp 50-70 F

3.4 S-Type engine, with Duckhams ‘Q’ 20W 50 oil, has 50-55psi on cold start-up,
40-45 psi on normal hot driving, (1000 - 3000rpm) with 30 psi on a hot idle
(500rpm). This engine still running in. Before rebuild the idle pressure was
down to 15psi, with around 25 hot. The gauge and sender unit are the same.
Iwould always use 20-50 oil in an XK type engine, personal preference.

Alastair Lauener *
1964 3.4 S-Type http://www.sn.no/home/nick/alas.html *

From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 10:02:20 -0700
Subject: Re: Starting problems

Dennis BeiBwanger wrote:

I have an intermitent starting problem with my 82 XJ6 SIII 4.2

It sounds like the periode it worked fine was just an accident

I assume your car is an automatic, no stick-shift… Ever noticed that if not
in park or neutral, the starter won’t crank the engine? (Am I stupid? 'couse you
do; you americans are breast-fed and raised with automatic transmissions!)
Anyways, I had some shit happening once. It acted like it was in gear; didn’t
crank. After wiggling about for a while with wires and switches, it was suddenly
OK. This was years ago and has never happened since.

Now however, I’m experiencing a problem with the starter (mentioned before some
weeks ago). Half of the times I start it, the following will happen: I turn the
key and it is like the battery is nearly flat, but it ain’t. I turn the key
again to start position and holds it; first a couple of lazy revs, and then
suddenly it “lets go” and cranks the engine properly. Some guy told me the
problem lies with the starter, but what can be done to fix it, that’s what I
wanna know.

Anyone…?

Cheers,
Bard

______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no

From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 09:56:48 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: XK8 Screen Saver

“Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com wrote:

Does anyone have the XK8 screen saver. I couldn’t find it on the main
site.

You can download it from my “Sovereign” page at:

Gunnar

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 13:47:41 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: Starting problems

key and it is like the battery is nearly flat, but it ain’t. I turn the key
again to start position and holds it; first a couple of lazy revs, and then
suddenly it “lets go” and cranks the engine properly. Some guy told me the
problem lies with the starter, but what can be done to fix it, that’s what I
wanna know.

I don’t know the XJ6, but the XJS has a starter relay. If you should have this,
ask someone to give it a little smack when you are cranking or check the
voltage accross the relay contacts

- Matthias

From: Mark Stiles ittmjs@staffs.ac.uk
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 13:31:23 +0100
Subject: Re: Jaguar specialists on the Web

Recently there was a post on Service Manuals for the XJ40 available
from the JEC? I have stupidly deleted it - could someone forward it
on to me please?

Mark

Mark Stiles
90 Daimler 4.0

From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 14:43:28 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: Jaguar specialists on the Web

On Thu, 3 Oct 1996, Mark Stiles wrote:

Recently there was a post on Service Manuals for the XJ40 available
from the JEC? I have stupidly deleted it - could someone forward it
on to me please?

It can be ordered from Bookspeed. Bookspeed accept orders
by email and have a pretty comprehensive web-site. The
web-site is linked to the main page of the JagWeb.

Nick

From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 08:10:28 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Alzheimers/Aluminum (no Jag content whatsoever)

On Wed, 2 Oct 1996, Mark McChesney wrote:

On Oct 2, 2:41pm, Kirbert wrote:

It has not been proven, but such “proof” is not what one should be
looking for. By the same token, tobacco has never been proven to
cause lung cancer! A better question might be: has aluminum been
proven to NOT cause Alzeimers. For my money, all my aluminum pots
and pans were donated to Goodwill several years back.

My understanding was that aluminum was found in the brains of Alzeimers victims
but they did not know if it was cause or effect. I ditched our aluminum pans
too… Not going to wait to find out. But what about all that aluminum dust
from sanding and polishing the dash pots and valve covers on my E-type??? :-/
Maybe one day they’ll find it in my brain…

Mark McChseashedf err McCheaseghfiysdf… what ever

I think I did this too…but, for the life of me, I can’t remember.
Seriously, Jaguar owners have enough gremlins to be paranoid about
without this one.

Larry Lee

From: Paul Peard 100025.1253@CompuServe.COM
Date: 03 Oct 96 09:38:18 EDT
Subject: [XK8] - UK only - Top Gear Reminder

UK Jag Lovers, Top Gear has the XK8 road test tonight.

Regards
Paul

From: Michael Powers/TEIR/Thomson Michael_Powers@teir.com
Date: 3 Oct 96 9:55:35
Subject: RE:XJ40 vs SIII (the reality)

Whew!!! I was hoping somebody would send a post that took the
“babe factor” into account when comparing an SIII and the XJ40.

Let’s face it, women like the XJ40 better. Period.

Is there really anything more that needs to be said?

Respectfully yours,
Mike

PS - If there are any women on the list, don’t bother sending any nasty
emails saying I’m sexist, or whatever. You know the truth when you hear it…

cobac @ ix.netcom.com

10/02/96 12:13 PM
To: jag-lovers @ sn.no @ Internet
cc:
Subject: RE:XJ40 vs SIII (quite long)

At 06:19 PM 10/2/96 -0700, you wrote:

…Sorry guys but the XJ40 is really ugly.
Barrie Dawson
Chatham, Kent England
1985 series III Sovereign

Is it? Well, the ladys still seem to like it! Lexus and Mercedes owners
still give angry looks toward me occasionally (I guess they wanted a Jag,
but didn’t want Jag maintance costs!).

While on the subject, anyone see the CNN news poll about a year or two ago?
They interviewed women and asked what they thought was the sexyist car around.
What did the majority answer? Jaguar, of course! And what car did the news
reports show? That’s right!, a gorgeous late model XJ40 in kingfisher blue
with tan leather, with its owner waving at the camera!

Well, everyone’s entitled to their opinion!

cobac@ix.netcom
1989 XJ40 Vanden Plas (black/biscuit)

From: COOPER ROBIN D COOPER_ROBIN_D@Lilly.com
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 13:55:54 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: bleeding brakes

has anyone ever tried to bleed the rear brakes on a 1967 E-type series 1
without dropping the tranny. it seems as though i can put it up on jack
stands and do it from underneath without going through the incredible
hassle with the rear suspension. i would just like to check with other
peoples experiences before starting. thanks,
robin cooper
1967 E-type series 1 coupe
1974 E-type series 3 convertible

From: p.hyslop@utoronto.ca (p.hyslop)
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 11:26:30 -0400
Subject: [none]

Someone recently suggested you throw your AL pans away because use could
cause Alzeimers. To my knowledge there has never been any statistically
proven link between Al pan use and Alzeimers.

Re: Alzheimer’s and dementia:

I won’t pollute the list with arcane technical arguments on Aluminum and
Alzheimer’s Disease and other dementias. There are three world experts on
this: Donald crapper-McLachlan (CRND, Toronto), Daniel Perl (Mt Sinai, New
York) and William Markesbury (Lexington, Kentucky). The former have data in
favour of Aluminum being involved, the latter has data against it. Their
work is easily accessible in any science library, if anyone has a burning
desire to know more they can contact them or me directly. The bottom line
from all three experts however is that you can keep your aluminum pots and
pans, and more importantly your aluminum engines.

    However, I think that the medical literature has missed a novel

syndrome that may bear on this discussion. Every Jag-lover’s spouse can
attest to the dementing effects of Jaguar ownership. It is manifest as
mindlessly frittering away dollars and time while polishing, tuning, fixing
Jags, and then spending even more time nattering about it on the internet.
The cause is UNKNOWN but likely culprits are … organic solvents
(cleaning/polishing), Aluminum intoxication (biting the engine during
frustration attacks), and most likely of all, an inate “consitutional
weakness” (i.e. “bad genes” of jag-owners). … got to go now, feel a
dementia attack coming on!

Peter

'74 XKE V12 Roadster

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 10:17:02 -0500
Subject: XK-8 versus Aston-Martin

 After I left yesterday's message about the XK-8 launch, I went home to 
 discover the latest issue of Road & Track in my mailbox.
 
 Right on the cover is the XK-8, with a promise of a full road test 
 inside.  Next to it (both on the cover and sequentially inside) is the 
 car it could have been and should have been, the exciting new F-Type!  
 (ooops, I mean Aston-Martin)
 
 The test of the XK-8 oozed praise from every pore.  Some of the things 
 I dislike the most (e.g. more wood on the dash than in a small forest, 
 that damned ugly steering wheel) they praised the most.  Oh well, if 
 we all liked the same designs, I guess we would all have the same 
 model car.  Worse yet, they'd all be the same color.
 
 R&T did agree that the stylist quit before he finished the back half 
 of the car.
 
 The handling was highly praised, with a lot of ink spent on the 
 suspension, etc.  Funny thing though, when I went to the road test 
 summary page. their previous tests showed the XJR sedan equal to the 
 exciting new XK-8 on the skid pad (at 0.83g) and the XJR was faster 
 through the slalom!
 
 Next was the new Aston-Martin, which most of you will remember as the 
 ill-fated F-Type.  Remember drooling over the "secret spy photos" in 
 all the magazines a few years ago?  Well, the F-Type is alive and well 
 in Newport-Pagnell!  It neatly answers virtually everything I didn't 
 like about the XK-8.
 
 The instrument panel and console are tastefully appointed with more 
 than adequate quantities of wood.  The instrument cluster is 
 symmetrical, with equal sized speedometer and tachometer.  If you have 
 access to Road & Track, just compare the interior photos.  The A-M 
 even has a nice, small diameter, leather wrapped wheel.  (I wonder if 
 it will fit in the XK-8?)
 
 The rear styling of the A-M is also a vast improvement.  The rear 
 fenders have just that small amount of upward rounding or bulging I 
 thought the XK-8 needed to continue hinting at the E-Type.
 
 And best of all, the A-M has a 5-speed!  If A-M (not to mention 
 Ferrari) can sell expensive 2+2 GTs with a 5-speed, why in the hell 
 can't Jaguar at least have one on their "sports" car as an option?  
 Use the one in the A-M.  It certainly fits in a shortened XJ-S, which 
 they both are, and it fits the A-M's destroked AJ-6 engine.
 
 Finally, on the last page, R&T has a side by side photo comparison of 
 the two cars.  Lose the A-M side gills and replace its trademark grill 
 with an E-Type oval and you basically have long- and short-nosed 
 versions of the same car from the doors forward.  The A-M greenhouse 
 isn't as much like a pillbox as the XK-8's.  Advantage A-M.  The rear 
 end is an absolute slam dunk in favor of the A-M.  
 
 <sigh>  what could have been!
 
 MikeC

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #400

Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4)
id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Thu, 3 Oct 1996 22:48:25 +0200 (MET DST)
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 22:48:25 +0200 (MET DST)
Message-Id: 199610032048.WAA02207@ekeberg.sn.no
X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f
From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #401
Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Precedence: bulk
X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest

jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 3 October 1996 Volume 02 : Number 401

Re; bulb falure
SIII Unleaded conversion
Chrome,
solinoid question
what your car says about you
XK8 in Wall Street Journal
Re: XK-8 versus Aston-Martin
XJS Electrical problems
Re: XJ-S help needed
Re: XJ-S Book Size
Re: solinoid question
Re: XK-8 versus Aston-Martin
Re: '88 XJ-S V12 (UK) steering rack replacement
XJ40 vs. SIII
Re[2]: XJ40 vs SIII (the reality)
Re: XK-8 versus Aston-Martin
Jaguars and babes
20 - 50 oil

From: HealeyDoc@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 11:47:02 -0400
Subject: Re; bulb falure

<we have a 90 xj6 that has a bulb failure light that comes on <most times
when
<brakes are applied. installed all new factory bulbs in rear of <vehicle and
<light still comes on. also light comes on at times when you <acceel. any
thoughts???

We have found that when the bulb failure light comes on it is best to replace
ALL the bulb for the car. If this doest work look the lamp modules.

British Car Specialist 2060 N. Wilson Way Stockton Ca 95205
209-948-8767 (fax# 948-1030) HealeyDoc@aol.com

Norman Nock - Tech, advisor, David Nock - Service
Sheila Huggins - parts research

Technical books by Norman Nock avalilable for the MG and Healey.

If you have any questions give Norman or David Nock a call

From: “Dawson, Barrie” dawsonb@btcec3.agw.bt.co.uk
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 96 16:40:00 GMT
Subject: SIII Unleaded conversion

I have been concerned about the unleaded issue in Europe since I wish to
have some driving holidays there in the future. The German situation looks
pretty grim so I need some advice.

What do I need to do to convert to unleaded running?
How much would a catalyst conversion set me back?

UK prices only please, thanks.

Barrie Dawson
Chatham, Kent England

1985 series III Sovereign

From: Scott Demaret scott.demaret@ioppublishing.co.uk
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 17:00:58 +0100
Subject: Chrome,

Hi.

Does anybody have any experience, good or bad with removing the chrome
cappings around the top of the door frames (XJ6- S2/3), have tried on a old
scrap door, and it seems almost impossible without damaging the chrome…

The next questions is, if they will come off, how do they go back on.

Thanks

Scott

From: Frank Perrick frankp@mscnet.net
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 12:45:21 -0400
Subject: solinoid question

I am trying to design a set up that will turn on a 50 amp 12 volt
circuit in the trunk when the key is on. I do a lot of special events
for my company and need to install my voltage inverter to provide 120
volts for areas not giving us power. My initial low cost methode was to
have a small relay turn on a starter solinoid but I know a starter
solinoid is probally designed to only operate for a short time. A 12
volt contacter would be ideal but the only place I can find one is in a
A/C parts house for $80 big ones. I need a solinoid that has a secondary
holding coil that kicks on after the main has activated, This lower
current coil would keep the switch open after the main coil did all the
hard work. Pin ball machines use this concept to keep the coli from
burning up when some body holds the flipper in the active state. Wow
talk about a simple question getting dificult. By the way I’m keeping my
car for now, until my car lot guy gets a volvo in to swap even. Frank
Perrick 1985 XJS
P.S I found a Lancia 2000 in rough shape runs and A/C blows cold are
these things worth anything he wants $500 for it.

From: Brent Eagling brent@filoli.com
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 96 10:19:01 -0700
Subject: what your car says about you

Subject: what your car says about you

 Acura Integra          - I have always wanted to own the Buick of
                            sports cars
 Acura Legend           - I'm too bland for German cars
 Acura NSX              - I am impotent
 Audi 90                - I enjoy putting out engine fires
 Buick Park Avenue      - I am older than 34 of the 50 states
 Cadillac Eldorado      - I am a very good Mary Kay salesman
 Cadillac Seville       - I am a pimp
 Chevrolet Camaro       - I enjoy beating up people
 Chevrolet Chevette     - I like seeing people's reactions when I tell
                            them I have a 'Vette
 Chevrolet Corvette     - I'm in a mid-life crisis
 Chevrolet El Camino    - I am leading a militia to overthrow the
                            government
 Chrysler Cordoba       - I dig the rich Corinthian leather
 Datsun 280Z            - I have a kilo of cocaine in my wheel well
 Dodge Dart             - I teach third grade special education and I
                            voted for Eisenhower
 Dodge Daytona          - I delivered pizza for four years to get this
                            car
 Ford Fairmont          - (See Dodge Dart)
 Ford Mustang           - I slow down to 85 in school zones
 Ford Crown Victoria    - I enjoy having people slow to 55mph and
                            change lanes when I pull up behind them
 Geo Storm              - I will start the 11th grade in the Fall.
 Geo Tracker            - I will start the 12th grade in the Fall.
 Honda del Sol          - I have always said, half a convertible is
                            better than no convertible at all
 Honda Civic            - I have just graduated and have no credit
 Honda Accord           - I lack any originality and am basically a
                            lemming.
 Infiniti Q45           - I am a physician with 17 malpractice suits
                            pending.
 Isuzu Impulse          - I do not give a rip about J.D. Power or his
                          	  reports.
 Jaguar XJ6             - I am so rich I will pay 60K for a car that is
                        		    in the shop 280 days per year.
 Kia Sephia             - I learned nothing from the failure of
                            Daihatsu Corp.
 Lincoln Town Car       - I live for bingo and covered dish suppers >>>

                            Mercury Grand Marquis  - (See above)
 Mercedes 500SL         - I will beat you up if you ask me for an
                            autograph
 Mercedes 560SEL        - I have a daughter named Bitsy and a son named
                            Cole
 Mazda Miata            - I do not fear being decapitated by an
                            eighteen-wheeler
 MGB                    - I am dating a mechanic
 Mitsubishi Diamante    - I don't know what it means either
 Nissan 300ZX           - I have yet to complete my divorce
                            proceedings.
 Oldsmobile Cutlass     - I just stole this car and I'm going to make a
 Peugeot 505 Diesel     - I am on the EPA's Ten Most Wanted List
 Plymouth Neon          - I sincerely enjoy doing the Macarena
 Pontiac Trans AM       - I have a switchblade in my sock
 Porsche 944            - I am dating big haired women that otherwise
                            would be inaccessible to me
  Rolls Royce Silver Shadow  - I think Pat Buchannon is a tad bit too
                            liberal
 Saturn SC2             - (See Honda Civic)
 Subaru Legacy          - I have always wanted a Japanese car even more
 Toyota Camry           - I am still in the closet
 Volkswagon Beetle      - I still watch Partridge Family reruns
 Volkswagon Cabriolet   - I am out of the closet
 Volkswagon Microbus    - I am tripping right now
 Volvo 740 Wagon        - I am frightened of my wife

From: mkenrick@golder.com (Michael Kenrick)
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 10:51:13 -0700
Subject: XK8 in Wall Street Journal

 My car-loving colleague has just shown me the 8-page pullout from 
 today's Wall Street Journal.  Pretty impressive advert aimed at the 
 perceived target market!  
 
 His estimate of the cost for such a feature is between 8 and 16 
 MILLION dollars!  (Pity it is in B&W only, but apparently the WSJ is 
 not geared up for any colour work)  Nice to see Jaguar, backed no 
 doubt by those Ford people, are taking this baby very seriously and 
 pulling out all the stops.
 
 Michael Kenrick

From: “Lee Walden” lwalden@ebmud.com
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 11:06:33 -0700
Subject: Re: XK-8 versus Aston-Martin

Sorry to Dissapoint Mike…

----------------SNIP------------------------

 And best of all, the A-M has a 5-speed!  If A-M (not to mention 
 Ferrari) can sell expensive 2+2 GTs with a 5-speed, why in the hell 
 can't Jaguar at least have one on their "sports" car as an option?  
 Use the one in the A-M.  It certainly fits in a shortened XJ-S,

which

 they both are, and it fits the A-M's destroked AJ-6 engine.

The F-type (AM) and the XK8 are NOT both built on the same chassis. The F
is based on a shortened XJS, but the KX8 design was started from a clean
sheet of paper. Have to agree on why no 5-speed for a “sports” car. Lee

From: Jon Jackson jon1@flash.net
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 13:40:16 -0700
Subject: XJS Electrical problems

I almost hate to send this email. I was working on the cat two nights ago
and had taken the battery out of the car to clean all of the terminals and
posts. Upon re-entry it was set in place backwards. Without paying any
attention I secured the positive cable and proceeded to secure the negative
cable–BACKWARDS. Dumbfounded that I had done this I quickly pulled the
cables off.

The next day I replaced the alternator that had been shorted out by this
mistake. All seems to be good now. But no. An intermittent problem with
the fuel gage. Every now and then when I press the brake pedal the fuel gage
bottems out. Release the breake and it goes back to reading correctly. This
is all with it sitting in my garage. I am not sure the correct term for this
on but I will explain it as best I can. While driving with the RPM between
1500 and 2000 the engine clatters, I think some people call it dieseling.
Above 2000 and below 1500 every thing seems ok. It will only do this while
the engine is under a load. It will not do it in while the gear is in park.
I noticed today that it does not do this until it gets to normal operating
temp.

My guess at the second problem is that it has something to do with the timing
advance, but I know very little about this sort of thing. Any and all help
is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Jon Jackson
87 XJS BRG (sick kitty)

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 15:00:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: XJ-S help needed

On Thu, 3 Oct 1996, Kirbert wrote:

Reportedly, the K&N filters for the XJ-S do not have the blank-off,
and therefore the same filter fits either ABS or non-ABS cars. The

Yes, I have the K&N filters and this is exactly how they are designed.

John

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 15:07:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: XJ-S Book Size

On Thu, 3 Oct 1996, Kirbert wrote:

I recently have been having some problems printing my XJ-S book.
Then I installed some more RAM, bringing the total up from 16MB to
32MB – and my printing problems went away. I’m sure there’s a

I have printed your Word document off from machines with only 16 MB of
RAM. No problem. Suspect that your problem lies in your system
configuration and/or printer driver setup. If problem persists e-mail me
privately and I’ll have one of our techies talk you through it.

driver problem somewhere, no size of file should cause system
lockups, it should just start caching.

Yes

However, I do wonder how far
out into untested ground I am getting; the file is about 1.3MB these
days, and showing no signs of slowing growth. Is there a limit to
MS-Word file size?

This is not that big a document and you should not be having problems.

Is anybody else having trouble with its size? I got a message from
somebody saying their system froze after they scanned to a particular
page, but I dunno why. I also dunno what I’d do about it; since the
document is full of cross-references, I can’t very easily break it
into multiple documents. And since half the cross-references are to
figures, I can’t easily pull the illustrations out and make them
separate files.

This should not be necessary and would make use of the manual a pain.

While I may claim to know a thing or two about the XJ-S, I still feel
like an amateur on MS-Word.

You do not seem to have committed any sins in the formatting of the
document. Big documents with graphics are subject to cache/swap space
issues. Machine speed and setup and other concurrent tasks affect it all.

Regards,

John

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 15:20:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: solinoid question

Two easy ways to do this. Relays require more power to pick up than to
stay picked up. Wire a resistance in series with the coil that is shunted
when the coil is deenergized. Second way is to use a ‘toggling’ type of
relay – these only require coil energization for a moment to toggle
between contacts open and closed. Surplus catalogs or stores will have
them for a couple of bucks.

John

On Thu, 3 Oct 1996, Frank Perrick wrote:

I am trying to design a set up that will turn on a 50 amp 12 volt
circuit in the trunk when the key is on. I do a lot of special events
for my company and need to install my voltage inverter to provide 120
volts for areas not giving us power. My initial low cost methode was to
have a small relay turn on a starter solinoid but I know a starter
solinoid is probally designed to only operate for a short time. A 12

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 15:29:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: XK-8 versus Aston-Martin

On Thu, 3 Oct 1996, Lee Walden wrote:

The F-type (AM) and the XK8 are NOT both built on the same chassis. The F
is based on a shortened XJS, but the KX8 design was started from a clean
sheet of paper. Have to agree on why no 5-speed for a “sports” car. Lee

Wait – I thought that the XK8 is using some XJ-S floor panels. Tez –
what is the straight story???

John

From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Mon, 30 Sep 1996 12:26:17 GMT
Subject: Re: '88 XJ-S V12 (UK) steering rack replacement

In message 199609301001.MAA05976@turquoise.cray.com mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR) writes:

Check if you have a leak at the tower seal once the
rack is out.
Funny you should say that - that’s why I need a rebuilt rack ! Another
“common failure mode” methinks.

Regards,

Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk

From: James_H._Legge@hud.gov
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 96 15:19:18 EST
Subject: XJ40 vs. SIII

Roger Peng snips and writes :
The debate goes on:

I like the looks of my
XJ6C, but I’d rather DRIVE the XJ40. It’s the only car that’s made me
think of selling the XJ6C in spite of its beautiful looks, engine, and
ride. It’s primitive by comparison - only its looks have saved it so
far…

The XJ40 is the ugliest Jag…

Indeed, the series III is the most beautiful car in the world,

Alternatively, a `90 or later XJ40 with low mileage can be readily picked up at
Honda prices.
Trade-offs? Mostly just the styling, and more cramped interior space.
It’s still a Jaguar, doesn’t feel Japanese or German. ------

It’s sort of like choosing a woman. Would you rather have a nice dowdy,
hard-working woman who is a good cook and looks after the house but has
no curves whatsoever - or a Cindy Crawford type who can’t cook, doesn’t
do housework, but is a knockout that you can’t keep away from ?
Hey, I’ll take frozen dinners and housework anyday !!

Jim Legge
'85 SIII
'80 TR7

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 14:34:24 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: XJ40 vs SIII (the reality)

This is a Mime message, which your current mail reader
may not understand. Parts of the message will appear as
text. To process the remainder, you will need to use a Mime
compatible mail reader. Contact your vendor for details.

–IMA.Boundary.711173448
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Description: cc:Mail note part

Yeah, I’d say there are a few things left to say . . .

Grow up. If you think some “babe factor” is the most important factor
in automobile selection (or Jags), call back when your acne clears up.
Do any of you seriously think the CNN poll was asking women if they
found the XJ-6 series III or the XJ-6 (a.k.a. XJ-40) the most sexy? Do you
even think CNN is aware of the difference? Or ever heard of an “XJ-40”?
Much more likely, people were given a list of brand names (e.g. Jaguar,
Honda, BMW, etc.) and asked to identify the one they thought was the
sexiest. No doubt it was Jag by a landslide, but I’ll bet there was quite
a variety of Jags in mind when they answered the question. Depending on
age and nationality they were thinking of everything from XK-120s and the
older saloons right on up. I’d bet many of the older ones were thinking of
E-Types, and a lot of younger ones had an XJ-S in their thoughts.
I still have the E-Type I bought new in '74 and the XJ-S convertible I
bought in '88. Over the years I have had a number of notes and cards left
on them by women. So what? Who in their right mind would care about the
opinion of some “babe” who leaves notes on cars belonging to total
strangers? Worse yet, would you even think about responding to one? Would
your medical insurance even cover the risk if you did?
I’m human, so I certainly bask in the glow when a person in the car
next to me lowers the window and makes a favorable comment. When it’s a
nice day and I’m cruising with the top down the chance of a stoplight
comment from a stranger is probably over 75%. I’m also enough of a sexist
pig that the glow is a bit warmer if the person happens to be a woman.
But, while pleasant comments from strangers certainly add to the overall
enjoyment, I’d love my Jags exactly as much if the comments were absent.
Give me a crisp, clear Fall day like today and a few miles of winding road.
Better yet, up on the Blue Ridge following the curves of Skyline Drive
through all the riot of colors the trees provide this time of year. Top
down, all those wonderful V-12 sounds, that is what owning a Jag is about.
Impressing the neighbors and the babes is why Yuppies buy BMWs.
The women on this list need not respond to your post, I’ll cheerfully
do it for them. You unnecessarily and unfairly offer them insult and
demean their interest in Jaguars. While they are still a minority on this
list, they certainly provide as much insight and useful input as anyone
else. Have you even noticed that the monthly update to the Jag vendor
list, one of the most useful posts, is contributed by a fellow Jag-Lover
who happens to be a woman? In my on and off-line exchanges I have found
that their messages would be indistinguishable from any other Jag-Lover’s
except for the name on the “from:” line.
Last, but certainly not least, is the original question. I’ve never
owned a Jag sedan of any type, so I feel no obligation to rationalize my
purchase by favoring one over another. Having said that, I can state
without reservation that the XJ-6/12 Series III is obviously the most
beautiful Jag sedan ever produced. The Series II is a close second. As
for the XJ-40 . . . When it was first introduced as a replacement for the
XJ-6 I hated the looks. To me Jag styling has always been about curves and
tradition. Over the decades, Jag styling had undergone a tremendous
change. Nonetheless, all the styling cues remained so that any Jag, sedan
or otherwise, fairly screamed “I’m a JAG” to anyone who even glanced at it.
So along comes this purported Jag that looks like … Well, like a …
Actually, like the box it shipped in. Yes, it was probably the highest
quality Jag sedan produced up 'til then. Yes, it still had the Jag ride,
handling and glorious interior. (Well, the quality and ride were ok once
you replaced the door handles and rear shocks.) But it just doesn’t look
like a Jag. After I got over hating it for not looking like a Jag, I
realized it is actually a quite attractive car. Much more so than most of
it’s competition. (Obvious exception being the Infinity, which had
apparently adopted as many Jag styling cues as possible. It certainly
wasn’t Jag competition in any other way.) Jaguar certainly came to agree,
since one of the major objectives of the latest XJ-6 redesign was obviously
to restore the curves and traditional Jag styling cues. Just in case
anyone missed the point, they drove it home in all the commercials
featuring nostalgic music and older Jags reflected in the paint of the new
car. I notice the XJ-40 never showed up in the reflections!

So, bottom line: Is the XJ-40 pretty? Sure. Best looking Jag sedan? Get
a grip!

 Mike C

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RE:XJ40 vs SIII (the reality)
Author: Michael Powers/TEIR/Thomson
Michael_Powers@teir.com at Internet
Date: 10/3/1996 9:55 AM

Whew!!! I was hoping somebody would send a post that took the
“babe factor” into account when comparing an SIII and the XJ40.

Let’s face it, women like the XJ40 better. Period.

Is there really anything more that needs to be said?

Respectfully yours,
Mike

PS - If there are any women on the list, don’t bother sending any nasty
emails saying I’m sexist, or whatever. You know the truth when you hear it…

cobac @ ix.netcom.com

10/02/96 12:13 PM
To: jag-lovers @ sn.no @ Internet
cc:
Subject: RE:XJ40 vs SIII (quite long)

At 06:19 PM 10/2/96 -0700, you wrote:

…Sorry guys but the XJ40 is really ugly.
Barrie Dawson
Chatham, Kent England
1985 series III Sovereign

Is it? Well, the ladys still seem to like it! Lexus and Mercedes owners
still give angry looks toward me occasionally (I guess they wanted a Jag,
but didn’t want Jag maintance costs!).

While on the subject, anyone see the CNN news poll about a year or two ago?
They interviewed women and asked what they thought was the sexyist car around.
What did the majority answer? Jaguar, of course! And what car did the news
reports show? That’s right!, a gorgeous late model XJ40 in kingfisher blue
with tan leather, with its owner waving at the camera!

Well, everyone’s entitled to their opinion!

cobac@ix.netcom
1989 XJ40 Vanden Plas (black/biscuit)

–IMA.Boundary.711173448–

From: TezFair@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 15:56:45 -0400
Subject: Re: XK-8 versus Aston-Martin

In a message dated 03/10/96 20:35:57, you write:

Wait – I thought that the XK8 is using some XJ-S floor panels. Tez –
what is the straight story???

John

The XK8 uses a modified XJS floorpan, only the bulkhead and the seat locators
were altered.

Tez

From: DavidZ333@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 16:13:27 -0400
Subject: Jaguars and babes

Mike

Enjoyed your note, Mike, really. To add -

PS - If there are any women on the list, don’t bother sending any nasty
emails saying I’m sexist, or whatever. You know the truth when you hear
it…<

Not all feminists are women. The contrary is a common but incorrect
presumption made by many men and women.

There is a notion out there that suggests the attraction of babe to car is
not so much the lure of the car but the driver. Like the old jazz tune says
: “It ain’t whatcha do it’s the way hacha do it.”

Quite seriously, is this forum purely male? I hope not. As a
generalization, how boring !

David

From: DHarr13177@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 16:45:00 -0400
Subject: 20 - 50 oil

Why do XKE owners use 20 - 50 oil ? Is this recommended by the factory ?
Why should this motor need heavier oil than most other makes ( which use 10

- 30 or 10 -
  40 ? )

Doug

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #401

X-UIDL: bad4e96d0d9a0bba819032f1fa70cfe0
Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4)
id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Fri, 4 Oct 1996 03:54:14 +0200 (MET DST)
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 03:54:14 +0200 (MET DST)
Message-Id: 199610040154.DAA29099@ekeberg.sn.no
X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f
From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #402
Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Precedence: bulk
Status: RO
X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest

jag-lovers-digest Friday, 4 October 1996 Volume 02 : Number 402

Re: Re[2]: Fuel
horsepower list (no Jaguar content)
XJ-S Oil Pressure
Re: XJ40 vs. SIII
Re: Currency Conversion (Very Little Jag Content)
Re: XJ40 vs SIII (the reality)
Re[2]: XK-8 versus Aston-Martin
Currency Conversion (Very Little Jag Content)
Re: XJ40 vs SIII (the reality)
I saw it too!! XK8
Re: what your car says about you
62-65 Jag XKE roadster
XJ40 v’s SIII
Re: what your car says about you
Re: XK8 in Wall Street Journal
XJ-S Help Book Update

From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@CompuServe.COM
Date: 02 Oct 96 03:06:32 EDT
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Fuel

Mike Cogswell replied :

Actually, I think the correct answer is to read your owner’s manual and use
the recommended octane.

Most modern ECUs can compensate for lower octane fuel, but at the expense
of performance and economy.

On the other hand, it is generally worthless to use higher than recommended octane fuel without reprogramming the ECU. MikeC I know of no ECU / EF I /EIS (elec Ignition Systems) system which automatically compensate for the octane rating of fuel. Some systems (SAAB amongst others) can vary the ignition timing advancement until Knock occurs and will then retatd accordingly. I also dont’ know (yet) which adjustment of the ECU is necessary to compensate for for higher octane / or higher compression (which wil require higher octane rating), but I working on it reading my new book from AJ6 engineering. Regards Jeffrey Gram Regards From: DisneyPors@aol.com Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 17:31:13 -0400 Subject: horsepower list (no Jaguar content) Hi, I have this from the Porsche list and just thought I would sent it to you guys. Although the stereotype jaguar owner may not be a sports car person, I have owned Jaguars, love Jaguars and they do have one hell of a great racing history. Therefore, I figure some of you may like this list. So, here is a copy of my post to the Porsche list. Ok, no one has added anything to this list for a while now, so here are all the ones I collected. If anyone has anymore to add, please feel free. Otherwise, as Jerry944T@aol.com suggested this should be edited (there are some really unfunny ones in this list) and then maybe make up a Porsche tee shirt with the top ten. anyway, please direct all tee shirt questions and votes to Jerry944T as this his “baby”. I just told him I would keep track of the incoming ideas for a while as he was busy. Enjoy the list: You know you have enough horsepower when� 1. Your horsepower exceeds your weekly salary. 2. You have more than you can safely control, such as any teenager in a 5 liter Mustang. 3. You get a personal thank you note from the Emir of Kuwait for your help in supporting the economy. 4. When you have more horsepower than brain power 5. When your local race shop says “I don’t know how we can spend any more of your money.” 6. Your car goes through rear tires like potato chips. 7. You get a volume discount at both The Tire Rack, and your local traffic court. 8. Your local power company contacts you regarding the use of your car for peak load power generation. 9. Your wife simply says “Warp 7, Mr. Sulu.”, when she wants you take her for a spin. 10. You start scouting the local Army-Navy store for a surplus g-suit. 11. You start running red lights, as they appear green from doppler shift. 12. You plot stealing that big tank of NOX every time you visit the dentist. 13. Your local cops purchase a Vintage CanAm car, just to be able to catch you. 14. Michael Schumacher pays to drive your car. 15. You need FAA clearance to leave your driveway. 16. You leave rubber on the pavement exiting one corner, all the way to the next. 17. Enzo Ferrari (or Dr. Porsche) rolls over in his grave. 18. You have to add a Parachute to slow down 19. You see the Space Shuttle Astronauts waving to you, in your rearview. 20. Your G’Forces exceed your IQ (or weekly salary). 21. A road that was once paved smooth is now full of pot holes from your starts. 22. You rev your engine, and people in LA run for their lives. 23. You’re watching the tape of “In Car 956” on fast-forward mode just to keep from falling asleep. 24. You’re driving East and never see the sun set. 25. You lay two black strips of rubber down the length of your driveway every morning on your way to work. 26. You have to replace your brake pads at the end of each run group. 27. You’ve installed dragster parts to keep your car from wheelying back too far. 28. You don’t lust for Jerry Seinfeld’s mythical 959. 29. You start building a car for your wife (or) you start working on your wife�s car. 30. You give Andial your Visa number and they say, “Sorry, but…”. 31. The emissions test guy starts laughing as soon as you pull onto the rollers. 32. You can’t drive your car in the rain. 33. Your ‘significant other’ is afraid to drive your car. 34. You are afraid to drive your car. 35. You spend more on tires than on food. 36. You spend more on car insurance than on house payments. 37. You look in a state police car and see a picture of your car taped to the dash. 38. You look through the ads in Excellence and don’t see anything you want. 39. You throw your underwear in the garbage rather than the hamper. (Sorry) 40. You have to go to the track to buy gas. 41. Your mechanic names the new wing of his shop after you. 42. You win a PCA race. 43. You win a POC race. 44. You win a F1 race. 45. Norbert Singer (Porsche factory race engineer) calls to ask you a question. 46. You can�t improve your car without Patrick Head & John Barnard�s help. 46.a Patrick Head and John Barnard are so excited by the challenge they agree to do it. 46.b They fail. 46.c Enzo is so excited by the challenge he comes back to help. 47. You can�t find any cars worthy to race against, so you have to start your own series. 47.a Tony George is so threatened by your series that when you don�t let him manage it, he throws a temper tantrum and starts yet another series. 48. Bernie Eclestone show up at your house to see if your car meets regulations. 49. The Bonneville salt flats are to short for you to find out your top speed. 50. Boeing sends engineers to your house for some pointers. 51. Insurance companies create a new category just for you. 52. Your neighbors complain about the sonic boom every morning when you leave for work 53. Tire manufacture�s warrantees exclude your car by name. 54. Enough horsepower, what�s that? 55. Your sideways so often you forget which end is supposed to be in front. 56. You go through transmissions like potato chips. 57. You stop working on your engine and buy a wind tunnel to improve your top end. 58. You can start in 5th and not notice a difference (or - still smoke your tires). 59. Frank Williams and Ron Dennis get into a bidding war over you. 60. You are finally able to prove all those theories about the speed of sound. 61. You take a drive, get out, look back, and watch yourself get there. 62. Marlboro pays you 40 Million to put their logo on your car. 63. You drive faster than your guardian angel can fly 64. You can make the Kessell run in less than 12 parsecs 65. You are crowned King, the undisputed ruler and all knights pledge their undying allegiance to you. From: Steve Draper s_draper@wcsr.com Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 17:31:36 -0400 Subject: XJ-S Oil Pressure A few questions: oil pressure is usually around 50psi on highway driving; at times on idle pressure dips to 25psi. Is this necessarily a problem? If so, what could it be? Otherwise, car is fine. From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 15:48:33 +0700 Subject: Re: XJ40 vs. SIII It’s sort of like choosing a woman. Would you rather have a nice dowdy, hard-working woman who is a good cook and looks after the house but has no curves whatsoever - or a Cindy Crawford type who can’t cook, doesn’t do housework, but is a knockout that you can’t keep away from ? Hey, I’ll take frozen dinners and housework anyday !! You have Cindy Crawford on tap and you’re taking time to EAT and CLEAN??? Greg. G. W. Price & Company, Ltd Santa Fe, New Mexico Consultants in research, information management and program evaluation Probabilistic Record Linkage Services From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 17:59:28 -0005 Subject: Re: Currency Conversion (Very Little Jag Content) Surf on over to Currency Encyclopedia | Xe and you can convert any currency to your local currency in real-time. There’s another one at: http://bin.gnn.com/cgi-bin/gnn/currency?United_States Works a little differently, take your pick. Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | - Palm’s Postulate From: Shane Gibson shane_gibson@qsp.co.nz Date: Fri, 04 Oct 1996 10:12:49 -0700 Subject: Re: XJ40 vs SIII (the reality) Mike Cogswell wrote:

Having said that, I can state without reservation that the XJ-6/12 >Series III is obviously the most beautiful Jag sedan ever produced.

I am sorry guys (and gals) but I can remain silent no longer.

The MK II is the most beautiful Jag sedan ever produced.

Shane Gibson
Wellington, New Zealand
1968 Daimler V8 250

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 17:35:13 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: XK-8 versus Aston-Martin

I’m certainly not in a position to argue, since I have no direct connection
to the Jaguar designers. However, I have seen several printed references
to the XK-8 as being based on the XJ-S platform. Of course, I didn’t say
chassis since the XJ-S doesn’t have one. I believe the R&T article not
only repeated the statement about the shortened XJ-S but may have even
given the specific number of different panels. They did say that the front
sub frame and suspension was much different. I think they said the
majority was made of aluminum. The engine is also set farther back to
improve weight distribution.

MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: XK-8 versus Aston-Martin
Author: “Lee Walden” lwalden@ebmud.com at Internet
Date: 10/3/1996 11:06 AM

Sorry to Dissapoint Mike…

----------------SNIP------------------------

 And best of all, the A-M has a 5-speed!  If A-M (not to mention 
 Ferrari) can sell expensive 2+2 GTs with a 5-speed, why in the hell 
 can't Jaguar at least have one on their "sports" car as an option?  
 Use the one in the A-M.  It certainly fits in a shortened XJ-S,

which

 they both are, and it fits the A-M's destroked AJ-6 engine.

The F-type (AM) and the XK8 are NOT both built on the same chassis. The F
is based on a shortened XJS, but the KX8 design was started from a clean
sheet of paper. Have to agree on why no 5-speed for a “sports” car. Lee

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 16:46:54 -0500
Subject: Currency Conversion (Very Little Jag Content)

I find that a fairly good common currency exists.

In countries that use bread as the “staff of life” you can express prices
in “loaves of bread” This also works good when compairing time periods that
are separated by periods of inflation.

For instance a Model T ford at $500 (yes some were cheaper but some were
more expensive too.) and bread at 5 cents a loaf comes out to 10,000 loaves
of bread. A new Ford Escort is now 12,000 dollars and a loaf of bread is
$1.20 so a new car STILL costs 10,000 loaves of bread.

I suspect that countries that use different things than bread could still
use the cost of a similar product to do the conversion.

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: spe00@eng.amdahl.com (Silas Elash)
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 96 16:05:09 PDT
Subject: Re: XJ40 vs SIII (the reality)

I have one of each and I would have to say I would give up
the XJ6 to keep the MK2. I can’t say as much over the beauty,
for they both hold there own in that department, but for the unique
character of the MK2 and THE LACK OF SMOG REQUIREMENTS.

Silas

I am sorry guys (and gals) but I can remain silent no longer.

The MK II is the most beautiful Jag sedan ever produced.

–
Shane Gibson
Wellington, New Zealand
1968 Daimler V8 250

From: LLoyd 3030P@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 96 15:45:09 PDT
Subject: I saw it too!! XK8

Got a look at the new XK8 today at lunch. Saw both the coupe and convertable.
X-UIDL: e38b4187385e9659095a805a1db01b9d
Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4)
id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Fri, 4 Oct 1996 06:45:43 +0200 (MET DST)
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 06:45:43 +0200 (MET DST)
Message-Id: 199610040445.GAA16023@ekeberg.sn.no
X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f
From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #403
Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Precedence: bulk
Status: RO
X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest

jag-lovers-digest Friday, 4 October 1996 Volume 02 : Number 403

Re[4]: Fuel
Brake Bleeding
Re: Replace the ECU as Pre Maintenance
Re: Local Shops and Dealers
Re: Alzheimers/Aluminum (no Jag content whatsoever)(Good news)
Re: XJS cough & Sputter
Re: XJ-S Oil Pressure
Re: XJ40 vs SIII (the reality)
XJS Oil seals and gaskets.
Re[9998768479]: Fuel
XJ40 Head Gasket
RE: 90 xj6 bulb failure light
Jaguar Screen Savers
Re: 90 xj6 bulb failure light
XJ40 versus all others
Re: oil pressure
Re: oil pressure
Re: bleeding brakes
Re: bleeding brakes
Re: Replace the ECU as Pre Maintenance

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 21:49:14 -0500
Subject: Re[4]: Fuel

Jeff:

ECU was probably a poor choice of acronym. However, knock sensors have been
fairly common for quite a while. Cars with knock sensors certainly compensate
for low octane by retarding the timing. However, saying that they “compensate”
without further explanation was an even worse choice. I certainly failed to
make it clear that a) not all have knock sensors and b) running around with your
timing retarded because you have low octane fuel is a fundamentally bad thing.

Thanks for the reply.

The main point however remains, read the manual and use the recommended octane.

MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Fuel
Author: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@CompuServe.COM at Internet
Date: 10/2/1996 3:06 AM

Mike Cogswell replied :

Actually, I think the correct answer is to read your owner’s manual and use
the recommended octane.

Most modern ECUs can compensate for lower octane fuel, but at the expense
of performance and economy.

On the other hand, it is generally worthless to use higher than recommended
octane fuel without reprogramming the ECU.

MikeC

I know of no ECU / EF I /EIS (elec Ignition Systems) system which
automatically compensate for the octane rating of fuel. Some systems (SAAB
amongst others) can vary the ignition timing advancement until Knock occurs and
will then retatd accordingly.

I also dont’ know (yet) which adjustment of the ECU is necessary to compensate
for higher octane / or higher compression (which wil require higher octane
rating), but I working on it reading my new book from AJ6 engineering.

Regards Jeffrey Gram

From: Ed Scripps 73200.2362@CompuServe.COM
Date: 03 Oct 96 22:08:47 EDT
Subject: Brake Bleeding

Robin,

On my '66 series I ‘E’ I removed the rear spring/shock assembles from each side
to reach in and make life a little easier. This can be a little tough though
especially if these bolts haven’t been removed in a awhile. In any case you can
reach up and remove the bolts.

I haven’t tried from just underneath. If you end up doing it that way let me
know. It’ll save a little work next time.

-Ed-

has anyone ever tried to bleed the rear brakes on a 1967 E-type series 1
without dropping the tranny. it seems as though i can put it up on jack
stands and do it from underneath without going through the incredible
hassle with the rear suspension. i would just like to check with other
peoples experiences before starting. thanks

From: Tom Graham TGraham@internetmci.com
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 19:14:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Replace the ECU as Pre Maintenance

– [ From: Tom Graham * EMC.Ver #2.3 ] –

'Morning Chaps-
Just the opening I was waiting for - replace your ignition coil as
preventive maintenance!!! (You old blokes knew I was going to say that,
didn’t you).

I’ve no history of ECU’s going bad. Although I do remember about three
years ago some discussion re XJ-S- ECU’s and how some were prone to the
solder joints on the circuit board becoming “open”, due to vibration or
such. Suppose that is what I’d do with my ECU (84XJ6), I’ll add it to the
list, I’ve been inside the ECU housing before and recall it as being a
board with components. This should be reliable, but one could retouch the
solder joint for each component, wouldn’t hurt anything.

Rather than the ECU going bad it is much more likely that a wiring
connector will go bad. On every car I have, (mostly not Jag’s) if I
suspect an electrical type problem, I head for the connectors. 95% of
electrical problems are at the (bad) connector.

Rather than replacing the ECU, what about the Air Flow Meter??? It is and
electro-mechanical gizmo. Anyone know about how long the AFM, Bosch L-
tronic, is typically good for???

Cherio - Tom

From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Wed, 02 Oct 1996 00:34:17 GMT
Subject: Re: Local Shops and Dealers

In message 199610011616.AA09695@gcn.scri.fsu.edu “Kirbert” writes:

Optional: he might also be able to bring
up a collection of comments regarding a selected shop.
[snip]
Comments could be added later, if someone has
a pleasant (or otherwise) experience with the shop.
^^^^^^^^^^^^
In countries with libel laws like the UK’s, that could be a problem.
Basically, the only defence against a libel charge is “veritas”, i.e.
proving that what one said was indeed true and fair. Point is, the
defendant may have to prove his innocence, in a way.

I’ll be happy to comment on garages I have visited, but only by private
email, as this does not constitute “publication” which is a necessary
prerequisite for establishing libel.

No prizes for guessing what my experiences have been ;-(

Otherwise, great idea.

Regards,

Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 4 Oct 96 12:23:47
Subject: Re: Alzheimers/Aluminum (no Jag content whatsoever)(Good news)

Peter Brown :Ever wondered what they put in anti-perspirant? Aluminium!
Dilemma: Keep your mind or your friends?

No problem, just get aluminium-free AP - or pick friends who love you for your
personality, not for your smell…

:3+)

-Jan

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 4 Oct 96 12:12:22
Subject: Re: XJS cough & Sputter

This sounds exactly like my two XJ12s. Heat build-up during parking for half an
hour or so evaporates the fuel in the injection rails, and the fuel in the
filter is hot enough that it, too, mostly evaporates when it hits the rails.
Coughing and spluttering sets in until the vapour is gone. Yes, overheating
makes it worse; I had one period with the LWB before I re-gunned the radiator
when it was so severe that the vapour pushed the fuel back far enough to empty
the filter.

I’ve applied a couple of remedies, starting with getting the cooling system to
work properly. The next step was relocating the filter to the front corner of
the spare wheel well. I then wired an override switch, so as to run the fuel
pump continuously before starting the engine. You can hear the note of the pump
deepen when it gets up to pressure and the pipes are full again.

The Coupe, interestingly enough (possibly because it’s a high-compression
engine) doesn’t get quite as hot under the bonnet and I only turn the ignition
on/off four-five times before starting, to run the pump. This is only needed on
hot days.

-Jan

XJ12L
XJ12C

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 4 Oct 96 13:39:02
Subject: Re: XJ-S Oil Pressure

Steve Draper : oil pressure is usually around 50psi on highway driving;
at times on idle
pressure dips to 25psi.

This is perfectly normal and no worry at all, Steve. In fact, 25 psi on hot
idle is jolly good.

-Jan

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 4 Oct 96 13:43:53
Subject: Re: XJ40 vs SIII (the reality)

Shane Gibson: The MK II is the most beautiful Jag sedan ever produced.

Prove it.

-Jan

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 20:43:55 -0500
Subject: XJS Oil seals and gaskets.

I will be putting the XJS back together this week end.

Two questions:

 1) I have not yet opened the thermostat housings (I will be replacing

both of them with the 82 degree (summer version). Is the gasket a normal
gasket that I can make from stock gasket material or is it something special?

 2) Someone suggested replacing the front oil seal while the radiator

was out. My seal is not leaking now and I wonder if I should just “let
sleeping dogs lie?” I would hate to change it then have a leak develop.

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 23:22:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re[9998768479]: Fuel

No offense to anyone involved, but this this whole stupid string started
(again) because someone with an 85 XJS that runs fine on 87 or 89 octane
(been so long I can’t remember) wanted to know if it would make the car
run better if premium gas was used. A reasonable question that has been
answered many times over now. The answer is no as long as the car is not
pinging and timing etc are set to factory specs. Can we stop wasting the
bandwitdth now?
Relatively few cars even today have knock sensors. An 85 XJS certainly does
not.

Thomas

However, knock sensors have been
fairly common for quite a while. Cars with knock sensors certainly compensate
for low octane by retarding the timing. However, saying that they “compensate”
without further explanation was an even worse choice. I certainly failed to
make it clear that a) not all have knock sensors and b) running around with your
timing retarded because you have low octane fuel is a fundamentally bad thing.

From: Mike Everatt meveratt@Direct.CA
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 20:41:17 -0700
Subject: XJ40 Head Gasket

The AJ6 engine in XJ40’s don’t blow head gaskets at 100K miles like
many SIII’s do, and it doesn’t need a stake-down kit.

Again, for the record, I am currently doing more AJ6 head gaskets than XK’s.
This is due to oil leaks out the right front corner. Other than that, the
AJ6 is a fantastic engine

Is the front right corner leak one that is critical to fix? It appears to leak only where the timing chain runs – not at a cylinder. I’ve heard both versions – “they all do that, don’t worry” and “fix it right away”. What’s the scoop? I can stand a little oil seeping out, but I don’t want to pull the head if there’s no danger of compresssion loss, or head warping.

Mike Everatt
1987 1/2 XJ40 “the experimental version”

From: Mike Everatt meveratt@Direct.CA
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 20:41:35 -0700
Subject: RE: 90 xj6 bulb failure light

You probably have a faulty relay module – there is one in each corner of the car, they control all lights at that corner, and they’re expensive! Not much in them, either, however, they’re not really “user serviceable”. Check the connectors first, and the bulb sockets for corrosion. If they’re ok, it’s probably the one of the relays. (Which one???) Jag techs acknowledge the problem is common with these relays. I was told that they commonly cut two wires to elmininate the VCM display message, but I never did find out which ones.

Mike Everatt
1987 1/2 XJ40 “the experimental version”

From: Donald R. Farr[SMTP:d.farr@phx.cox.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 01, 1996 11:18 PM
To: IBVILLIN@aol.com
Cc: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Re: 90 xj6 bulb failure light

we have a 90 xj6 that has a bulb failure light that comes on most
times when brakes are applied.

I’ve had a similar problem with my 91 Sovereign that reappears like a
ghost from time to
time with never a satisfactory answer. I usually “cure” it by
slamming the driver door (I suggest doing this at stop lights, not
while going around a curve at 90mph).

I’m all ears to what others have to say.

Donald R. Farr
Paradise Valley, AZ 85253
(602) 948-7499 - fax
91 Sovereign
d.farr@phx.cox.com - e-mail
http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/dfarr.htm - Don’s Homepage
http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/jetta1.htm - Jetta Notebook Computers
http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/march10.htm - Wireless products
http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/ncs1.htm - National Consulting Services

From: “George W. Cohn” gwcohn@azstarnet.com
Date: Thu, 03 Oct 1996 20:46:48 -0700
Subject: Jaguar Screen Savers

Does anyone know if there are any more Jaguar screen savers for Windows
available? I have the XK-8 and the Moss Motoring savers but I would like
to find more, especially of all series of the E-types.

From: ajbeale@squirrel.com.au (A.J. Beale)
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 03:50:22 GMT
Subject: Re: 90 xj6 bulb failure light

On two occasions, bulb failure warnings in my 89 XJ40 Sovereign have been
due to poor contacts in the tail light assemblies, though all bulbs tested
OK when the car was stationary. I took out all of the bulbs and it was
obvious that arcing had dimpled the contact of one of them - very easily
fixed. I have also been told that the side turn indicator lights are often
the cause of bulb failure warnings - I think that water gets into them, but
am not certain. On the subject of good looking Jags, mine looks great while
it works well and won’t if it lets me down. To me, the same applies to all
cars - and women. Alan

From: Mike Everatt meveratt@Direct.CA
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 20:51:36 -0700
Subject: XJ40 versus all others

IMHO:

The best looking Jag sedan is the Mark II.
The best looking sports car is the XK120, or a Series 1 XKE (depends on the day!). Later XKEs, especially the 2+2, lost their good looks.

Series III’s are nice, but most I see are showing signs of age – body rust, etc. Not pretty anymore.

At first, I wasn’t as keen on the looks of the XJ40 as I was on the Series III, but now I wouldn’t trade at all. XJ40’s have a more modern, less fussy design that really grows on you with time. The interior is far nicer! And, for the record – everyone recognizes it as a Jag! Even Yugo drivers!

Mike Everatt
1987 1/2 XJ40
The experimental Version

From: ffilangeri@juno.com (Frank A Filangeri)
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 20:09:17 PST
Subject: Re: oil pressure

50 psi cold and 45psi hot at 2,500 rpm on Castrol20w-50.

Frank Filangeri
62 XKE roadster

On Thu, 3 Oct 1996 09:28 +0100 Frans HOEKEMEIJER
hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch writes:

Hello all,
my rebuilt E-type engine gives 30-40 psi at idle and 55 at 2000 rpm
with=20
20W-50 Castrol (hot) at 15 to 20 deg. C outside temp. 55 psi seems to
be the=20=

pressure where the overload valve of the pump opens. Of coarse, the
gauge=20
must be calibrated against a mechanical gauge, which I did at 40 psi.
I=20
built a small test rig for that so I can do that off the car.
Frans.
My recently rebuilt 4.2 E type has 45 psi cold, 40-42 hot at 3,000
rpm=20
with
10-40 castrol. Outside temp 50-70 F

The builder predicted 50 - 55 psi.

What pressure should a "new motor " have ? ( Stock, street driven)

The shop manual says 40 psi at 3,000 but doesn’t specify oil weight

The racing prep factory manual says 40 psi with 40w oil

This seems to low

How about a poll of members ? Just hit " reply " and the number of
psi=20
you
have

Thanks
 Doug
1966 E-Type

=20

From: ffilangeri@juno.com (Frank A Filangeri)
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 20:09:17 PST
Subject: Re: oil pressure

50 psi cold and 45psi hot at 2,500 rpm on Castrol20w-50.

Frank Filangeri
62 XKE roadster

On Thu, 3 Oct 1996 09:28 +0100 Frans HOEKEMEIJER
hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch writes:

Hello all,
my rebuilt E-type engine gives 30-40 psi at idle and 55 at 2000 rpm
with=20
20W-50 Castrol (hot) at 15 to 20 deg. C outside temp. 55 psi seems to
be the=20=

pressure where the overload valve of the pump opens. Of coarse, the
gauge=20
must be calibrated against a mechanical gauge, which I did at 40 psi.
I=20
built a small test rig for that so I can do that off the car.
Frans.
My recently rebuilt 4.2 E type has 45 psi cold, 40-42 hot at 3,000
rpm=20
with
10-40 castrol. Outside temp 50-70 F

The builder predicted 50 - 55 psi.

What pressure should a "new motor " have ? ( Stock, street driven)

The shop manual says 40 psi at 3,000 but doesn’t specify oil weight

The racing prep factory manual says 40 psi with 40w oil

This seems to low

How about a poll of members ? Just hit " reply " and the number of
psi=20
you
have

Thanks
 Doug
1966 E-Type

=20

From: ffilangeri@juno.com (Frank A Filangeri)
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 20:05:14 PST
Subject: Re: bleeding brakes

Without dropping the tranny??? Did you mean the rear? In any case the
job can be done from underneath with the car on stands without removing
anything. Acces to the nipples is limited and there is very little
wrench room. However, if you you want to do a real good job the way to
go is put the car on jackstands, take off the wheels and remove the
foward shock/spring aetup on each side. You then have excellent access
to the bleed nipples through the subframe. Taking the shocks off takes
only a few minutes and is well worth NOT getting a face full off brake
fluid when the poorly secured hose pops off the nipple while you are
laying under the car. Good luck.

Frank Filangeri
62 XKE roadster

On Thu, 03 Oct 1996 13:55:54 +0000 (GMT) COOPER ROBIN D
COOPER_ROBIN_D@Lilly.com writes:

has anyone ever tried to bleed the rear brakes on a 1967 E-type series
1
without dropping the tranny. it seems as though i can put it up on
jack
stands and do it from underneath without going through the incredible
hassle with the rear suspension. i would just like to check with other

peoples experiences before starting. thanks,
robin cooper
1967 E-type series 1 coupe
1974 E-type series 3 convertible

From: ffilangeri@juno.com (Frank A Filangeri)
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 1996 20:05:14 PST
Subject: Re: bleeding brakes

Without dropping the tranny??? Did you mean the rear? In any case the
job can be done from underneath with the car on stands without removing
anything. Acces to the nipples is limited and there is very little
wrench room. However, if you you want to do a real good job the way to
go is put the car on jackstands, take off the wheels and remove the
foward shock/spring aetup on each side. You then have excellent access
to the bleed nipples through the subframe. Taking the shocks off takes
only a few minutes and is well worth NOT getting a face full off brake
fluid when the poorly secured hose pops off the nipple while you are
laying under the car. Good luck.

Frank Filangeri
62 XKE roadster

On Thu, 03 Oct 1996 13:55:54 +0000 (GMT) COOPER ROBIN D COOPER_ROBIN_D@Lilly.com writes: has anyone ever tried to bleed the rear brakes on a 1967 E-type series 1 without dropping the tranny. it seems as though i can put it up on jack stands and do it from underneath without going through the incredible hassle with the rear suspension. i would just like to check with other peoples experiences before starting. thanks, robin cooper 1967 E-type series 1 coupe 1974 E-type series 3 convertible From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 00:36:59 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Replace the ECU as Pre Maintenance Rather than replacing the ECU, what about the Air Flow Meter??? It is and electro-mechanical gizmo. Anyone know about how long the AFM, Bosch L- tronic, is typically good for??? Cherio - Tom You would think that these things would wear out. But my experence has been that they don’t, unless they get murdered. This is done by having a massive backfire through the intake tract. I’ve seen bent flaps and, in extreme conditions, distorted cases. As evidence I’ll offer two of my cars. Many years ago I bought a rusted out injected Fiat sedan, with 180K miles on it, specificly to transplant the injection into my (then carb’d) X1/9. It has since been moved to yet another X1/9. I’m guessing total time on that AFM is around 275K miles, with a large amount of the last 100k being run hard. The other car is a 81 injected Lancia purchased with 61K miles on it. Purchased cheaply because it would hardly run. the car was 11 years old and still had the original spark plugs in it. It also had a destroyed AFM. The case was balloned visibly. This was from backfiring. Jag’s seem to be easier on the AFM than other cars. This is most likely due to the AFM used has a backfire relief valve builtin to the flap, and the plumbing connecting it to the manifold is not as well secured as most. They tend to blow the hose off instead. Randy K. Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #403 ******************************** Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4) id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Fri, 4 Oct 1996 15:42:01 +0200 (MET DST) Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 15:42:01 +0200 (MET DST) Message-Id: 199610041342.PAA17508@ekeberg.sn.no X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #404 Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Precedence: bulk X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest jag-lovers-digest Friday, 4 October 1996 Volume 02 : Number 404 Re: XJS Oil seals and gaskets. XJ40: Bulb Failure Re: XJ40 Head Gasket Re: Local Shops and Dealers Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #402 Re: XJS Electrical problems XK8 XJS Re: XJ40 vs SIII (the reality) Suspension, XJ3vs40 Re: Series I XJ6 in Auckland [JAGSWAP] Reminder [More WWW] The XK8 vs. DB7 and such Re: XJ40 vs. SIII Re: Local Shops and Dealers XJ40 for sale. ?2300-00 Beautiful cars. Re: Jaguar Screen Savers currency conversion again Re: Re[2]: XJ40 vs SIII (the reality) From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au Date: 4 Oct 96 16:09:02 Subject: Re: XJS Oil seals and gaskets. Jim Isbell : 1)…thermostat housings… Is the gasket a normal gasket that I can make from stock gasket material…? 2) …replacing the front oil seal while the radiator was out. …not leaking now… 1) Yes - that or silicon. 2) If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it… From: “Rennick, Kim (AS01)” KRennick@p03.as01.honeywell.com.au Date: Fri, 04 Oct 96 12:03:00 EST Subject: XJ40: Bulb Failure I too have had the dreaded ‘Bulb Failure’ warning on the VCM. In the first instance, it proved to be bad connection on one of the front turn indicators. I cleaned the connection and both the fault and the indication went away. The second instance was more interesting. The indication would show for a while (hours or days), then extinguish of its own accord. I checked the bulbs - all working OK. (and who ever hear of self-repairing bulbs, anyway?) I then noticed that the ‘caravan’ icon was showing on the instrument panel whenever the Bulb Failure was indicated. (My car has the towing attachment, complete with ECU, even though I dont actually tow anything!) Because of this, I pulled the electrical connector plugs (at the tow bar) apart. (These are the plugs that you would plug the trailer / caravan wiring connectors to, if you were towing the same.) Sure enough, one of the grub screws holding one of the car wires into one of the sockets had vibrated out (in fact all the screws were loose). The wire was going open circuit with the socket. Reconnecting the loose wire and re-tightening all the screws fixed the fault and extinguished the warning message. Considering that the connector plug is not connected to anything (by virtue of the lack of trailer / caravan), I dont quite understand how the ECU can distinguish that open circuit from the open circuit caused by the missing grub screw! One of the wonders of the modern world, I say. Amazing as it is, the fact remains that in both instances the VCM was reporting a real fault. Fixing the fault reset the VCM indication. What more can you ask for? Kim Rennick __________________________________________________ | | XJ40 3.6L Sovereign - | Citroen BX 19 GTI - | …(English and French rapprochement in my garage!) |__________________________________________________ From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 00:54:17 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: XJ40 Head Gasket Again, for the record, I am currently doing more AJ6 head gaskets than XK’s. This is due to oil leaks out the right front corner. Other than that, the AJ6 is a fantastic engine Is the front right corner leak one that is critical to fix? It appears to leak only where the timing chain runs – not at a cylinder. I’ve heard both versions – “they all do that, don’t worry” and “fix it right away”. What’s the scoop? I can stand a litt>le oil seeping out, but I don’t want to pull the head if there’s no danger of compresssion loss, or head warping. Mike Everatt 1987 1/2 XJ40 “the experimental version” There are three leak areas. the cam cover (usually at the back and into the sparkplug wells) the timing chain tensioner (right behind the distrubtor), and the head gasket proper (right where the head necks down after the timing chain case). The first two get fixed; too simple not to. With the head gasket, I’m of the opinion that as long that it is just seeping (damp), it’s up to the customer. Fix it now, when it gets worse, or when you get tired of it spotting your garage floor. however, if it is leaking; you can see a stream of oil flowing with the engine running; fix it NOW. There are two dangers. One is the oil hydraulicly seperating the head gasket causing further damage. And the other is this oil running out the side is meant to be going to the exhaust cam bearings. Randy K. Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 01:53:54 -0005 Subject: Re: Local Shops and Dealers Comments could be added later, if someone has a pleasant (or otherwise) experience with the shop. ^^^^^^^^^^^^ Stefan Schulz: In countries with libel laws like the UK’s, that could be a problem. Basically, the only defence against a libel charge is “veritas”, i.e. proving that what one said was indeed true and fair. Point is, the defendant may have to prove his innocence, in a way. I’ll be happy to comment on garages I have visited, but only by private email, as this does not constitute “publication” which is a necessary prerequisite for establishing libel. Good point. I don’t suppose jag-lovers would be too interested in testing the applicability of such laws to Internet “publication”, so perhaps an alternate idea: simply post the e-mail addresses of those who have experience with the shop, so that potential customers can send requests accordingly. Or I suppose we could keep the previous plan, but sterilize it – suggest that posters AVOID making disparaging remarks about the shop, but rather post only verifiable facts: what job was done, what it cost, what the estimate was, etc. Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | - Palm’s Postulate From: Jim Ellis jellis@metz.une.edu.au Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 16:59:50 +1000 (EST) Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #402 AMEN to that Shane! Jim Ellis. (1963 Daimler 2.5 v8 ) At 03:54 AM 4/10/96 +0200, you wrote:

From: Shane Gibson shane_gibson@qsp.co.nz
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 1996 10:12:49 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ40 vs SIII (the reality)

Mike Cogswell wrote:

Having said that, I can state without reservation that the XJ-6/12 >Series
III is obviously the most beautiful Jag sedan ever produced.

I am sorry guys (and gals) but I can remain silent no longer.

The MK II is the most beautiful Jag sedan ever produced.

Shane Gibson
Jim Ellis
Internal Auditor
University of New England,
N.S.W. 2351.
AUSTRALIA.

'phone: (067) 733497;
[national: +61 67 733497;]

fax: (067) 733314;

e-mail: jellis@metz.une.edu.au

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 09:00:04 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: XJS Electrical problems

The next day I replaced the alternator that had been shorted out by this
mistake. All seems to be good now. But no. An intermittent problem with
the fuel gage. Every now and then when I press the brake pedal the fuel gage
bottems out. Release the breake and it goes back to reading correctly. This
is all with it sitting in my garage. I am not sure the correct term for this
on but I will explain it as best I can. While driving with the RPM between
1500 and 2000 the engine clatters, I think some people call it dieseling.
Above 2000 and below 1500 every thing seems ok. It will only do this while
the engine is under a load. It will not do it in while the gear is in park.
I noticed today that it does not do this until it gets to normal operating
temp.

Did you turn on ignition when your battery was inversed ? As far as I remember
the ECU is turned off by the ignition key. On the European kind of cars
is a little mechanism to change ignition advance on warmup. This is controlled
by little box under the passenger dash (LHD), maybe it’s shot ? It activates
when the engine temperature is under 38C for 15 minutes. You could disconnect
it for testing.

- matthias

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 09:49:15 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: XK8 XJS

I’ve read several times now that the XK8 is finally the first real
sports car after the E-type. Being somewhat biased to the XJS, which in my eyes
is a very beautifull sports car, I am wondering what makes the XK8 a sports car
compared to the XJS. Is it :

racing success (have not seen any XK8 race yet)
performance (the numbers HP and torque seem to better for the V12)
transmission (at least the 3.6/4.0 ltr models had an optinonal manual
option)
weight (due to “non-sport” extras like A/C etc)
XJ-S not having fancy leather-covered ash trays
- Matthias

1988 XJ-S V12 (and if I had the money, my additinal car would be a XJ-S
cabriolet. V12 of course)

ps

the lowering of the window before closing the doors is a pretty old feature
introduced by BMW first on the 850 and the series 3 coupe.

From: brownd@filon.ml.com (Dave Brown - London Dev X1818)
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 96 08:53:35 BST
Subject: Re: XJ40 vs SIII (the reality)

From: Shane Gibson shane_gibson@qsp.co.nz

The MK II is the most beautiful Jag sedan ever produced.

Amen to that.

David Brown,
brownd@ml.com
///_/_/_/_/////_///______
/_/_//_/_/_/_/_/____
/_/_/_/_/______/_/_/_/______
/_/_/_/_/_/_/________/_/_____
___/_/_/////_/_/_/_/_/______
/_/___/_/_//_/_/_/____
///_/_/_/____/////_///_________

From: Greg Meboe meboe@mulder.scs.wsu.edu
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 01:32:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Suspension, XJ3vs40

Yes I would say that the SIII sedan does float at high speeds, something
which I would like to correct in our car. Mostly the problem is
noticeable at 100+ mph.
On another note, I understand there is some auto show in Paris right now,
perhaps I’l check it out.
Greg
Greg Meboe meboe@atc.boeing.com
Web site>> http://www.scs.wsu.edu/~meboe
Mechanical Engineer Boeing Payloads Division
'85 XJ-12 H.E. (daily) '67 Spit-6 '74 TR-6

From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 10:32:02 -0700
Subject: Re: Series I XJ6 in Auckland

G’day,

I think the program was called Tilt-23. One of the features was about the
annual(?) Garbage Derby in Auckland (NZ). All of a sudden, behind the two racing
garbage trucks, there was a Jaguar XJ6 Series I, red, possibly with black roof,
flashing its headlights and wiggling from side to side. I don’t think it was
trying to overtake the contestants. More likely it was sort of a pace-car.

Was it any of you guys? C’mon, you can tell me. Jaguars have been used as
pace-car before, at Silverstone!

Have a nice week end.

Bard

______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no

From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 10:05:55 +0100 (MET)
Subject: [JAGSWAP] Reminder

Folks,

I see there are still some postings on the list from people who want to
buy/sell stuff. As one of the reasons to create the “Jaguar/Daimler used
parts exchange” was to relieve the list of some traffic I suggest that I
post an occasional (short!) reminder to the list.

Let me know if you disagree, if not I’ll set up a job to post
automagically every week? fortnight? month?

Please respond to me directly, no point in boring the whole list with
this. Since I’ve already written this much I’ll include my proposed text
of the reminder:

============== start proposed message =======================

This is an automatically posted message to remind/inform the list
members of the existence of the “Jaguar/Daimler used parts exchange”.
This is a free service you can use to buy/sell/trade SS, Jaguar or
Daimler cars and parts. The service is WWW based and you can find it at:

No commercial advertising for companies, please.

============== end proposed message =========================

Apart from all that I’m looking into a two-way gateway between HyperNews
and email so that any Web-challenged members can participate in the
used parts exchange through email.

Gunnar

From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 10:14:17 +0100 (MET)
Subject: [More WWW] The XK8 vs. DB7 and such

To those who might be interested:

Mike Cogswell has graciously allowed me to use his postings regarding his
impressions of the XK8 and his thoughts about the XK8 vs. the Aston
Martin DB7 on my ‘Virtual Wheels’ WWW based Auto Enthusiasts’ “magazine”.
There’s some other Jaguar stuff there as well. You’ll find ‘Virtual
Wheels’ at:

Gunnar

From: ifinlay@vossnet.co.uk (Ian Finlay)
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 10:53:03 +0100
Subject: Re: XJ40 vs. SIII

On Oct 03, 1996 15:19:18, ‘James_H._Legge@hud.gov’ wrote:

It’s sort of like choosing a woman. Would you rather have a nice dowdy,
hard-working woman who is a good cook and looks after the house but has
no curves whatsoever - or a Cindy Crawford type who can’t cook, doesn’t
do housework, but is a knockout that you can’t keep away from ?
Hey, I’ll take frozen dinners and housework anyday !!

Jim Legge
'85 SIII
'80 TR7
^^^^^^
Or maybe you can’t make up your mind!

Ian

From: ifinlay@vossnet.co.uk (Ian Finlay)
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 10:52:54 +0100
Subject: Re: Local Shops and Dealers

Another useful addition would be an events list which anyone on the
list may be attending. That way we could go to an event sure in the
knowledge that at least one person will know the wonders of Jag-loving!

Ian

On Oct 01, 1996 12:16:28, ‘“Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu’ wrote:

So soon after the creation of the Jaguar/Daimler Parts site may not
be a good time to mention this, but I have another idea for a helpful
use of the WWW.

What I think would be helpful would be an online listing of the
various local shops that do Jaguar or Jaguar-related work –
including dealers. Basically, someone with a need to know could
access the site, select the country he’s interested in, then the
state, then the local area, and finally be given a list of the
various shops in that area. Optional: he might also be able to bring
up a collection of comments regarding a selected shop.

I consider this to be a separate idea from the suppliers list or
the list of sources in my XJ-S book. For the most part, I try to
list only sources of interest to XJ-S owners everywhere (mail-order
places, etc.), and avoid listing individual dealers or shops
generally of interest only to locals. Such a site could fill that
void.

Establishment of such a site requires somebody to set it up, but the
input should be easy: each of us can send info on the shops in our
area. Even info copied out of the phone book would suffice, if
nothing else is known. Comments could be added later, if someone has
a pleasant (or otherwise) experience with the shop.

There seem to be a lot of people who post questions to this group
trying to find a decent shop in their area. Also, those who travel
in their Jags might wanna check out the availability of repair sites
along their route – or, if they are connected via a laptop with
cellular modem, they could find the nearest site AFTER they break
down.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: Scott Demaret scott.demaret@ioppublishing.co.uk
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 1996 12:17:28 +0100
Subject: XJ40 for sale. ?2300-00

XJ40 3.6 Auto on D plate
Gold with Black Leather, Air Con, etc…
Very nice drive.

Needs slight attention… but will sell for ?2300-00 or can swop/part exchange if
anybody is interested.

Bristol Area, but may travel.

E-mail me at scott@hanham.demon.co.uk

Thanks

Scott

From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 11:57:10 -0700
Subject: Beautiful cars.

Shane Gibson: The MK II is the most beautiful Jag sedan ever produced.

Prove it.

-Jan

Yeah! Prove it :-@

- -Bard
  Jaguar XJ6 Series I (widely known as the most beautiful saloon in the world)

______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no

From: “Claus, Mike” claus@wg.com
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 96 09:03:58 EST
Subject: Re: Jaguar Screen Savers

    Not necessarily just screen savers - but actually any good 
    digitized images of Jags.  There is plenty of shareware 
    available which will allow you to use any image you want as a 
    screen saver - where can we get good, high resolution, Jag 
    pics?
    
    - mclaus ('93 XJ-S)

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Jaguar Screen Savers
Author: “George W. Cohn” gwcohn@azstarnet.com at WG-RAL-SMTP
Date: 10/4/96 1:08 AM

Does anyone know if there are any more Jaguar screen savers for Windows
available? I have the XK-8 and the Moss Motoring savers but I would like
to find more, especially of all series of the E-types.

From: COOPER ROBIN D COOPER_ROBIN_D@Lilly.com
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 1996 13:23:26 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: currency conversion again

the magazine ‘the economist’ uses a measure of currency comparison to see
whether a particular currency is over/undervalued in relationship to other
currencies. what they compare is the cost of a big mac and fries at the
local macdonalds-no kidding .i wonder how many big macs the new jag will
cost in the different markets. robin

From: Michael Powers/TEIR/Thomson Michael_Powers@teir.com
Date: 4 Oct 96 9:42:49
Subject: Re: Re[2]: XJ40 vs SIII (the reality)

Geez, mate, the post was merely a somewhat satirical view of the whole
SIII vs XJ40 debate. You shouldn’t take life (or email) so seriously.

After hundreds of posts concerning faulty solenoid questions, brake bleeding
commentary, and all the other bits of minutia, sometimes
we need a whimsical view, just to liven things up.

I hope we’re all still friends!

Cheers,
Mike
89 XJ6 - “The Ultimate Babe-Mobile”*

*Excluding the XK8 and X300

M.Cogswell @ zds.com (Mike Cogswell)

10/03/96 02:34 PM
To: Jag-Lovers @ sn.no @ Internet
cc:
Subject: Re[2]: XJ40 vs SIII (the reality)

Yeah, I’d say there are a few things left to say . . .

Grow up. If you think some “babe factor” is the most important factor
in automobile selection (or Jags), call back when your acne clears up.
Do any of you seriously think the CNN poll was asking women if they
found the XJ-6 series III or the XJ-6 (a.k.a. XJ-40) the most sexy? Do you
even think CNN is aware of the difference? Or ever heard of an “XJ-40”?
Much more likely, people were given a list of brand names (e.g. Jaguar,
Honda, BMW, etc.) and asked to identify the one they thought was the
sexiest. No doubt it was Jag by a landslide, but I’ll bet there was quite
a variety of Jags in mind when they answered the question. Depending on
age and nationality they were thinking of everything from XK-120s and the
older saloons right on up. I’d bet many of the older ones were thinking of
E-Types, and a lot of younger ones had an XJ-S in their thoughts.
I still have the E-Type I bought new in '74 and the XJ-S convertible I
bought in '88. Over the years I have had a number of notes and cards left
on them by women. So what? Who in their right mind would care about the
opinion of some “babe” who leaves notes on cars belonging to total
strangers? Worse yet, would you even think about responding to one? Would
your medical insurance even cover the risk if you did?
I’m human, so I certainly bask in the glow when a person in the car
next to me lowers the window and makes a favorable comment. When it’s a
nice day and I’m cruising with the top down the chance of a stoplight
comment from a stranger is probably over 75%. I’m also enough of a sexist
pig that the glow is a bit warmer if the person happens to be a woman.
But, while pleasant comments from strangers certainly add to the overall
enjoyment, I’d love my Jags exactly as much if the comments were absent.
Give me a crisp, clear Fall day like today and a few miles of winding road.
Better yet, up on the Blue Ridge following the curves of Skyline Drive
through all the riot of colors the trees provide this time of year. Top
down, all those wonderful V-12 sounds, that is what owning a Jag is about.
Impressing the neighbors and the babes is why Yuppies buy BMWs.
The women on this list need not respond to your post, I’ll cheerfully
do it for them. You unnecessarily and unfairly offer them insult and
demean their interest in Jaguars. While they are still a minority on this
list, they certainly provide as much insight and useful input as anyone
else. Have you even noticed that the monthly update to the Jag vendor
list, one of the most useful posts, is contributed by a fellow Jag-Lover
who happens to be a woman? In my on and off-line exchanges I have found
that their messages would be indistinguishable from any other Jag-Lover’s
except for the name on the “from:” line.
Last, but certainly not least, is the original question. I’ve never
owned a Jag sedan of any type, so I feel no obligation to rationalize my
purchase by favoring one over another. Having said that, I can state
without reservation that the XJ-6/12 Series III is obviously the most
beautiful Jag sedan ever produced. The Series II is a close second. As
for the XJ-40 . . . When it was first introduced as a replacement for the
XJ-6 I hated the looks. To me Jag styling has always been about curves and
tradition. Over the decades, Jag styling had undergone a tremendous
change. Nonetheless, all the styling cues remained so that any Jag, sedan
or otherwise, fairly screamed “I’m a JAG” to anyone who even glanced at it.
So along comes this purported Jag that looks like … Well, like a …
Actually, like the box it shipped in. Yes, it was probably the highest
quality Jag sedan produced up 'til then. Yes, it still had the Jag ride,
handling and glorious interior. (Well, the quality and ride were ok once
you replaced the door handles and rear shocks.) But it just doesn’t look
like a Jag. After I got over hating it for not looking like a Jag, I
realized it is actually a quite attractive car. Much more so than most of
it’s competition. (Obvious exception being the Infinity, which had
apparently adopted as many Jag styling cues as possible. It certainly
wasn’t Jag competition in any other way.) Jaguar certainly came to agree,
since one of the major objectives of the latest XJ-6 redesign was obviously
to restore the curves and traditional Jag styling cues. Just in case
anyone missed the point, they drove it home in all the commercials
featuring nostalgic music and older Jags reflected in the paint of the new
car. I notice the XJ-40 never showed up in the reflections!

So, bottom line: Is the XJ-40 pretty? Sure. Best looking Jag sedan? Get
a grip!

 Mike C

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RE:XJ40 vs SIII (the reality)
Author: Michael Powers/TEIR/Thomson
Michael_Powers@teir.com at Internet
Date: 10/3/1996 9:55 AM

Whew!!! I was hoping somebody would send a post that took the
“babe factor” into account when comparing an SIII and the XJ40.

Let’s face it, women like the XJ40 better. Period.

Is there really anything more that needs to be said?

Respectfully yours,
Mike

PS - If there are any women on the list, don’t bother sending any nasty
emails saying I’m sexist, or whatever. You know the truth when you hear it…

cobac @ ix.netcom.com
10/02/96 12:13 PM
To: jag-lovers @ sn.no @ Internet
cc:
Subject: RE:XJ40 vs SIII (quite long)

At 06:19 PM 10/2/96 -0700, you wrote:

…Sorry guys but the XJ40 is really ugly.
Barrie Dawson
Chatham, Kent England
1985 series III Sovereign

Is it? Well, the ladys still seem to like it! Lexus and Mercedes owners
still give angry looks toward me occasionally (I guess they wanted a Jag,
but didn’t want Jag maintance costs!).

While on the subject, anyone see the CNN news poll about a year or two ago?
They interviewed women and asked what they thought was the sexyist car around.
What did the majority answer? Jaguar, of course! And what car did the news
reports show? That’s right!, a gorgeous late model XJ40 in kingfisher blue
with tan leather, with its owner waving at the camera!

Well, everyone’s entitled to their opinion!

cobac@ix.netcom
1989 XJ40 Vanden Plas (black/biscuit)

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #404

Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4)
id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Fri, 4 Oct 1996 20:25:04 +0200 (MET DST)
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 20:25:04 +0200 (MET DST)
Message-Id: 199610041825.UAA26253@ekeberg.sn.no
X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f
From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #405
Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Precedence: bulk
X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest

jag-lovers-digest Friday, 4 October 1996 Volume 02 : Number 405

No Jag Content - The source of Standards
Re: Beautiful cars.
XJ-S Shell
Re: Re[2]: 20-50 oil
Re: XJ-S Shell
1990 XJS
Parts for sale list on the web and Dealer comments
Re: Jaguar Screen Savers
Are Jags Sexy?
Re: XJS Oil seals and gaskets.
1994 vanden plas
V12 Chain Tensioner Tools
Re: Jaguar Screen Savers
Re: Re[2]: 20-50 oil
XK8 vs. Aston-Martin
Re: XJ-S Shell
1990 XJS -Reply
Re: XK8 XJS
XK8 / E-type Musings
Two dead Jags.

From: Jack Fulford fulford@gte.com
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 08:44:26 -0500
Subject: No Jag Content - The source of Standards

I was thinking recently on some of the twisted convoluted regulations =

and taxing systems that affect us and our automobiles. While this does =
not apply directly to automobiles, it does start you thinking… =
BTW…To our friends in the UK, can any of you vouch for the truth of =
this story?

The US Standard railroad gauge (distance between the rails) is 4 feet,
8.5 inches. That’s an exceedingly odd number. Why was that gauge used?
Because that’s the way they built them in England, and the US
railroads were built by English expatriates.

Why did the English people build them like that? Because the first
rail lines were built by the same people who built the pre-railroad
tramways, and that’s the gauge they used.

Why did “they” use that gauge then? Because the people who built the
tramways used the same jigs and tools that they used for building
wagons, which used that wheel spacing.

Okay! Why did the wagons use that odd wheel spacing? Well, if they
tried to use any other spacing the wagons would break on some of the
old, long distance roads, because that’s the spacing of the old wheel
ruts.

So who built these old rutted roads? The first long distance roads in
Europe were built by Imperial Rome for the benefit of their legions.
The roads have been used ever since. And the ruts? The initial ruts,
which everyone else had to match for fear of destroying their wagons,
were first made by Roman war chariots. Since the chariots were made
for or by Imperial Rome they were all alike in the matter of wheel
spacing.

Thus, we have the answer to the original questions. The United State
standard railroad gauge of 4 feet, 8.5 inches derives from the
original specification (Military Spec) for an Imperial Roman army war
chariot. MilSpecs and Bureaucracies live forever.

So, the next time you are handed a specification and wonder what
horse’s ass came up with it, you may be exactly right. Because the
Imperial Roman chariots were made to be just wide enough to
accommodate the back-ends of two war horses.

From: brownd@filon.ml.com (Dave Brown - London Dev X1818)
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 96 14:55:21 BST
Subject: Re: Beautiful cars.

IMHO, The Jaguar C-type was one of the most seductive and beautiful cars ever
produced. Not a regular car, but gorgeous all the same.

David Brown,
brownd@ml.com
///_/_/_/_/////_///______
/_/_//_/_/_/_/_/____
/_/_/_/_/______/_/_/_/______
/_/_/_/_/_/_/________/_/_____
___/_/_/////_/_/_/_/_/______
/_/___/_/_//_/_/_/____
///_/_/_/____/////_///_________

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 10:05:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: XJ-S Shell

Seems that in a recent Jag magazine I saw a blurb about factory XJ-S
shells being available for something like 500 pounds. Supposed to provide
a solid base for the restoration of an S. A condition of sale was the
destruction of the original shell, I preume because the VIN gets
transferred to the new shell.

This sounds like a real bargain. Is it true? Do shipping costs make this
a problem outside the UK? If all the answers are yes, then maybe a bunch
of us can fill up a container.

John

From: DHarr13177@aol.com
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 10:10:54 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: 20-50 oil

I have a book on Jags that quotes a 1960’s media test drive : "The usual 50
psi oil pressure dropped to 40 after a spell of top speed running at 5,000
rpm " As usual there is no clue what weight oil was used.

There is no difference in bearing clearances between Jags and any other
motor. the mains and rods are .0015 - .003 .

Performance experts state that 10 psi per 1,000 rpm is desirable. That would
make 50 + psi desirable on a Jag or any other motor at 5,000 rpm. Gran
Turismo Jags state that 100 psi is necessary in their race motors, they have
made a special pump . They run to ~8,000 rpm

I wonder what the Jag Le mans race cars oil psi was. They ran ~6,000 rpm for
hours and I don’t think they had bearing problems.

I am interested in determining the optimal, correct pressure

Doug

From: David Wood David.Wood@durham.ac.uk
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 15:25:39 PDT
Subject: Re: XJ-S Shell

On Fri, 4 Oct 1996 10:05:30 -0400 (EDT) John Napoli wrote:

Seems that in a recent Jag magazine I saw a blurb about factory
XJ-S
shells being available for something like 500 pounds. Supposed to
provide
a solid base for the restoration of an S. A condition of sale was the
destruction of the original shell, I preume because the VIN gets
transferred to the new shell.

This sounds like a real bargain. Is it true?

It was true. Whether there are any left, I don’t know. The notice was
placed some months ago.

Cheers,

Dave Wood.

From: “Kevin Sisterson” stablemates@msn.com
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 96 14:31:44 UT
Subject: 1990 XJS

Hi all,
New to the list, I am new owner of an XJS V-12 and it came with the required
two or three minor problems.

The drivers window won’t go all the way up on the first try or it will go up
with a little push. I’ve lubed the track with silicone dilectric compound but
still no luck.

Problem number two is a clicking sound coming from the right front wheel when
going over bumps. Time for a new shock?

Are there zerk fittings on the suspension that I should be greasing? Did they
come with grease fittings or do you have to install them?

The speed control was disconnected when I bought it, the previous owner said
it had never worked for him. After re-connecting it it works fine! Are there
any problems inherent with this system that someone would just disconnect this
system instead of fixing it or should I chalk it up to a previous owner that
just didn’t like speed controls?

I was having a poblem that turned out to be the gas cap. I’d be crusing along
at 65 mph and then no power, nothing till it slowed down to 25mph. It would
limp along till you let it sit for ten or fifteen minutes. The previous owner
suggested vapor lock as the problem, I was a little sceptical but when the gas
cap was loosened and now with it put on just enough to keep it in place, no
more problems!

Kevin Sisterson
El Cajon Ca.

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 09:32:25 -0500
Subject: Parts for sale list on the web and Dealer comments

a reason not to discourage posts to this list of parts to trade/sell is
that some people dont have access to the web. They only have access to E-Mail.
As to bad comments on service providers. If we just mention those places
with which we are satisfied then it means anyone not on the list is either
not a good place to go, or has never been tried. This will aleviate any
worry about liabel.
```
  JIM I.
```

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: Jon Jackson jon1@flash.net
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 1996 09:52:32 -0700
Subject: Re: Jaguar Screen Savers

Claus, Mike wrote:

    Not necessarily just screen savers - but actually any good
    digitized images of Jags.  There is plenty of shareware
    available which will allow you to use any image you want as a
    screen saver - where can we get good, high resolution, Jag
    pics?

    - mclaus ('93 XJ-S)

Have you tried the Jaguar Cars home page. I think it is at
http://www.jaguarcars.com.

Might be a good place to start

Jon

From: “Makoto & Ann Sado Honjo” fm7m-hnjy@asahi-net.or.jp
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 00:08:15 +0900
Subject: Are Jags Sexy?

My ex secretary (who has since become a forex dealer, been married,
divorced, and remarried) had the ultimate comment on this subject.
“If a guy on a Mercedes tries to pick me up, I’ll think a bit; but if
a guy on a Jag tries to pick me up, I’ll just say ‘Yes, yes, yes.’”

Makoto Honjo
Phone/Fax +81-3-3473-1848

From: hdrsons@iamerica.net (Hal Rogers)
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 1996 10:25:37 -0600
Subject: Re: XJS Oil seals and gaskets.

At 08:43 PM 10/3/96 -0500, James A. Isbell wrote:

I will be putting the XJS back together this week end.

Two questions:
1) I have not yet opened the thermostat housings (I will be replacing
both of them with the 82 degree (summer version). Is the gasket a normal
gasket that I can make from stock gasket material or is it something special?

Why would you not want to purchase the correct gasket? They are very CHEAP
even at a Jag Dealer.

Regards,
Hal

Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
Import Auto Specialists
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax

Serving Auto Enthusiasts since 1959

From: SNUU46A@prodigy.com (MR PAUL R MARTIN)
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 11:12:57, -0500
Subject: 1994 vanden plas

In regard to my note about Jags slightly damaged at low price.
I have had too many e-mail to return. Their are none on the lot
at this time. Some examples of recent units are as follows.
{1}1995
Xj6 hit left front corner. I estimated which parts to replace &
New
they were about $5000 from dealer (not many Used 95 parts). It
sold as is for $19000 . Insurance pay out was $45000 U S .{2} 94 xjs

convertible. was hit hard on front but was very repairable. $19000.

{3} 90 vanden plas all seats were cut with razor as were plug wires
&
fuel injection cables. Racial slurs were scratched on top ,hood , &
trunk.
It sold for $5000 US. These were all salvaged by insurance co. and
have
to be repaired & inspected by state to be re titled.
I saw an estimate form a dealer body shop of over $20000 on one Jag

and I know that it only Cost $6500 to repair at none dealer shop.
Dealer
shop told me he did not want that job because the owner would be
impossible to please. And some Ins co most give in to influential
Jag
owners and total some slightly damaged cars as I have seen them. If
no objections I will post any thing (jag) that this dealer list. But
I cant
return all the e-mil. I would like to put another 10k miles on my 94
vdp
wich I love then offer it for about $23K .
paul martin
alabama usa
94 vdp
snuu46a@prodigy.com

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 11:36:14 -0005
Subject: V12 Chain Tensioner Tools

I’m always thinkin’.

The Jaguar manual specifies the use of tool JD.50 for releasing the
tension on the timing chain tensioner. What I would like to know is:
in the place of the small lever that is inserted into the opening to
release the latch, has anybody tried using one of those “brake tools”
that are sold everywhere for working on drum brakes? Y’know, the
little levers you stick through a hole in the backing plate and dial
the little star wheel on the self-adjusting brakes? They look to me
like they might work; I’d like to know if this is a workable
suggestion for the XJ-S help book.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: dlfreeman@ipa.net (Dave & Linda Freeman)
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 10:06:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Jaguar Screen Savers

   Not necessarily just screen savers - but actually any good
   digitized images of Jags.  There is plenty of shareware
   available which will allow you to use any image you want as a
   screen saver - where can we get good, high resolution, Jag
   pics?

   - mclaus ('93 XJ-S)

Am I wrong or is anything much greater than 100 dots per inch wasted on a
screen saver. In the interest of saving hard disk space as well as
bandwidth downloading the images I suggest we do not need “high
resolution”.

Dave and Linda Freeman http://www.ipa.net/~dlfreeman
Living the Good Life

From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 11:03:23 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Re[2]: 20-50 oil

On Fri, 4 Oct 1996 DHarr13177@aol.com wrote:

I have a book on Jags that quotes a 1960’s media test drive : "The usual 50
psi oil pressure dropped to 40 after a spell of top speed running at 5,000
rpm " As usual there is no clue what weight oil was used.

There is no difference in bearing clearances between Jags and any other
motor. the mains and rods are .0015 - .003 .

Performance experts state that 10 psi per 1,000 rpm is desirable. That would
make 50 + psi desirable on a Jag or any other motor at 5,000 rpm. Gran
Turismo Jags state that 100 psi is necessary in their race motors, they have
made a special pump . They run to ~8,000 rpm

I wonder what the Jag Le mans race cars oil psi was. They ran ~6,000 rpm for
hours and I don’t think they had bearing problems.

I am interested in determining the optimal, correct pressure

Here is another opportunity to to venture down the primrose path by
making seemingly “obvious” connections between parameters that are, in
fact, wrong.

Engine bearings are journal bearings, also known as hydrodynamic
bearings. This means that the rotating motion is what produces the
pressure within the oil film that keeps the metal parts apart. I’ll not
go into the mathematical analysis here, but the combination of bearing
load and journal rotation produces localized pressures that are much
greater than any engine’s supply oil pressure. All such a bearing needs
is sufficient oil flow to keep the gap between its journal and bearing
full. Supply oil pressure does not–indeed can not–carry the bearing
load. Supply oil pressure must be adequate to keep all of the engine’s
bearings flooded under all conditions. A loss of oil in the bearing
will result in rapid failure.

Many journal bearings work just fine with oil supplied at almost no
pressure, as in the crankpin bearings of steam engines that were
supplied from a small oil cup mounted on the bearing cap. Yes, I know,
these bearings had oil seals and ran at slower speeds, but that doesn’t
change how they carry loads.

In an engine, oil flow through the bearings serves a couple of other
functions, too. It flushes out wear elements that might be present, and
it serves as the bearings’ coolant.

Don’t confuse hydrodynamic bearings with hydrostatic bearings.
Hydrostatic bearings, machined to very tight tolerances, do require a
high supply (static) pressure to produce the oil film in the bearing.
They are used where bearing runouts in the microinch range are needed,
and they are expensive to buy and operate–not something one would need
to put in an engine.

Racing engines use higher supply pressures to make sure that the bearings
have oil under severe conditions, not just because these engines run at
higher RPMs or stresses. Even 100psi doesn’t compare with the localized
pressures the journal bearing develops from its own motion.

Larry Lee

From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 96 9:43:20 PDT
Subject: XK8 vs. Aston-Martin

I remind everyone that the Aston Martin cost almost as much as
an XK8 plus an XJ6!

Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD

From: “Claus, Mike” claus@wg.com
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 96 13:09:32 EST
Subject: Re: XJ-S Shell

    I guess this is a dumb question, but what is a Shell, and why 
    might I want one?
    
    - mclaus  ('93 XJ-S Convertible)

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: XJ-S Shell
Author: John Napoli jgn@li.net at WG-RAL-SMTP
Date: 10/4/96 11:24 AM

Seems that in a recent Jag magazine I saw a blurb about factory XJ-S
shells being available for something like 500 pounds. Supposed to provide
a solid base for the restoration of an S. A condition of sale was the
destruction of the original shell, I preume because the VIN gets
transferred to the new shell.

This sounds like a real bargain. Is it true? Do shipping costs make this
a problem outside the UK? If all the answers are yes, then maybe a bunch
of us can fill up a container.

John

From: Steve Draper s_draper@wcsr.com
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 12:57:45 -0400
Subject: 1990 XJS -Reply

Kevin, I’ve got the same issue with my driver’s side window. If you
shine a light into the door (with the window down) toward the front of
the door, you see the motor and gears for driving the window. A good
spray of WD-40 (I attached the little red straw for accuracy) left to sit
for a while may solve the thing. It did for me. Good luck, and if you hear
of a better solution, let me know. Thanks.

From: mkenrick@golder.com (Michael Kenrick)
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 10:19:27 -0700
Subject: Re: XK8 XJS

 Matthias wonders about the good old XJ-S:

I’ve read several times now that the XK8 is finally the first real
sports car after the E-type. Being somewhat biased to the XJS, which in my eyes
is a very beautifull sports car, I am wondering what makes the XK8 a sports car
compared to the XJS. Is it :

 Don't let such taxonomic niceties get to you.  If you think yours is a 
 sports car, that's fine I suppose.  I know mine is a Grande Tourer, 
 despite what dubious racing pedigree it may have.

transmission (at least the 3.6/4.0 ltr models had an optinonal manual
option)

The XJ-S V12 transmission is a dog. I have mine upgraded with a
better torque convertor and aggressive change points. It is still a
dog. The longer I own my beautiful Grande Tourer, the more I have to
accept that this piece of old but robust 3-speed American junk they
call a trany can never be considered part of a true sports car.
weight (due to “non-sport” extras like A/C etc)

The XJ-S is way too heavy to be considered a true sports car. Grande
Tourer, yes. They need it heavy for that wonderful ride. And I’d
personally rather keep the AC, and all other extras that make the XJ-S
such a wwondeful car (tranny notwithstanding!).
XJ-S not having fancy leather-covered ash trays

hehehe

Michael Kenrick

From: Ryan Border rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 10:33:32 -0700
Subject: XK8 / E-type Musings

What, in 1961, made the XKE such a great car? Why did it take the world
by storm, and does it continue to have such a great following? Well
in my opinion, it was the result of:
o Race-ready performance, with a (D-type) racing heritage to back
it up. An outstanding power/weight ratio.
o Industry leading technology
- Dual overhead-cam racing engine
- Independant IRS
- 4 wheel disk brakes
- Combined mono-coque / space frame construction
o Breath-taking styling. Looking at what else was being sold in 1961
it’s easy to see how this car made such an impact.
o All at a price an everyday shmuck could (stretch to) afford.

Just imagine if Jaguar took that formula and repeated it today. What would
it be? My take is… a mass produced XJ220 (industry leading technology,
race ready and proven performance, breathtaking styling), at… say $42,000.
No, not the full blown $250K XJ220, but a car for the masses that is to the
XJ220; what the E-type was to the D-type. Who among us wouldn’t be
saving/scrapping/stealing to find a way to put one in the garage? That
is what a “re-birth of the E-type” would have been to me…

Instead, Jaguar has unleashed their “re-birth” of the E-type, the new XK8,
complete with leather cup-holders, a little joy-stick to position the
steering wheel, gazillion way memory seats, etc. And a price tag that’s
just about $70,000. Why a “re-birth” of the E-type? Because it has a hump
running down the middle of the hood, an oval shaped intake, and (arguably)
headlights that sort of look like the old S1 E-type ones.

Don’t get me wrong… after attending the Oct 3 launch in San Jose last
night, I have to say the new XK8 is a nice car. It’s a really nice car.
Good (maybe great) styling, luxuriously appointed interior, good (according
to the rags) performance, very nice fit and finish, etc. I certainly would
like to have one. But there’s no way I’d drop $70K for one. And I really
don’t think it’s going to generate the kind of enthusiasm the E-type did
in 1961.

Instead of a re-birth, maybe what we have is a disinternment. The E-type
was retired with good reason in 1975. It had evolved from a sports car
into a grand touring car, and the original E-type design just wasn’t
very well optimized for this new role. Take a look at the boot space for
instance. The XJ-S (regardless of your opinion about its styling) was
probably a better touring car, and certainly (given it’s success over
some 23 years) proved to be a popular and profitable design. The new
XK8 continues as an even more upscale, luxurious, touring car; but with
some retro E-type styling.

But as I said, it is a really nice car. But to be honest, if I was
looking to spend ~$70K on a GT car, I think I’d buy a Viper coupe before
I’d buy the XK8. Just a thought: if the XK8 had a Diahatsu, Kia, or maybe
even Acura badge on it… what would we all think of it? Conversely would
it have mattered, at all, who built the original E-type?

Just my $0.02 worth.
Ryan.

From: henning@fp.com (Eric Henning)
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 14:23:25 -0400
Subject: Two dead Jags.

Saw two dead Jags the other day.

Local ad stated “two Jags for the price of one”. Curiousity got the
best of me so I called. “A 71 XJ6 and a 76 XJ6, both need TLC but were
running” said the owner, “and they could use a paint job”.

“were” is the operative word.

As I pulled in the driveway, I could see both sitting on the side of the house
tail-to-tail among the weeds. The first casualty I reached was the Series I.
Broken grill, flat tires, spots of bondo. A quick peek inside and I knew what
to expect when I opened the engine bay. Empty places where all the engine
parts should be but are now scattered about the interior, that is what was left
of the interior. So much for the '71. About the only good thing I could say
about it was all the glass was there, and the wheels looked like they
were off an XJ-S.

The '76 looked a little better and the owner said he had been driving it daily
up to last year. Interior was actually pretty good. Complete, musty, but
clean. Headliner hanging way down. Exterior was full of paint bubbles and
passenger side sill was gone. “Does this one run” I asked sheepishly.
“Sure, I just need to clean the carbs then I bet she’ll fire right up” he
said. I didn’t hang around to see if she’d start, I think it would have
been quite the struggle. So much for my “his and hers” XJ6’s.

Sad to say but these will probably end up in the junk yard :~(. Well, I saw
another XJ6 SI over by my parents new neighborhood. Maybe I’ll check it
out this weekend.

If anybody in the Allentown PA area what’s info, e-mail privately.

eric
henning@fp.com

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #405

Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4)
id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Sat, 5 Oct 1996 08:10:12 +0200 (MET DST)
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 08:10:12 +0200 (MET DST)
Message-Id: 199610050610.IAA18266@ekeberg.sn.no
X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f
From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #406
Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Precedence: bulk
X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest

jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 5 October 1996 Volume 02 : Number 406

I saw the XK8!
Re: Bleeding brakes - XKE
Re: XJ-S Shell
Re: 1990 XJS
Re: XJ-S Shell
XK-8
XK-8
Local shops and dealers etc
Jag certificate
Re: XJS Oil seals and gaskets.
Jaguar Accessories
RE: XK8 XJS
Re: Jaguar Screen Savers
S1 XJ6 Interior Trim
Speedomoter Calibration
I rode in an XK8
Jaguar questions
Re: Jaguar Screen Savers
Re: I rode in an XK8
Re: Are Jags Sexy?
XK8 Test Drive

From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 96 12:08:50 PDT
Subject: I saw the XK8!

Guys,

I went to the debute of the Jaguar XK8 at San Jose British
Motors last night. There were tons of people there, and Jags
parked everywhere. I must say the car looks better in person
than in the pictures. It won’t knock you out like the XKE or the
series III XJ, but it’s a good effort. I think the front end
looks quite good. The dash also looks better in person. Somehow
in the pictures it looks too “thick”. The “wing” shape is a throwback
to early British sports cars like the Jag XK120 and the old MG’s.
Having said the good things first, now let me turn to the criticisms:

I don’t like the styling in the rear, and I think Jag will improve
upon it later.
Styling on the side is too blend, kind of looks like a Chrysler
Sebring. Maybe curvier sheetmetal is harder to manufacturer?
I don’t quite like the interior finish. It feels and smells too
much like one of the Ford products.
The engine compartment presentation is very un-Jag like. It’s got
black plastic everywhere. I generally hate the cosmetic engine covers
introduced by the Germans to hide everything.
I noticed that the inside of the headlight lenses already have
condensation!!

I also checked out the `97 XJ sedan line. Here are the changes I
noticed: the XJ6 base model now gets black grill, and is offered
also in LWB. The VDP LWB now has a different looking rear seat.
I don’t particularly like its look (see for yourself), nor do I like
last year’s bench seat. In my opinion, the XJ40 VDP has the best
looking seats. As in the case of the XK8, I think the interior
“finish” is becoming more and more American. You feel it when
you sit inside.

Here’s my ideal Jag: a series III sedan with a XK8 engine/transmission
and XJ40 Majestic seats.

Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD

From: Robert_Abascal@ccmail.orl.mmc.com
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 1996 08:24 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Bleeding brakes - XKE

 I remove the telescoping dampers (coiled over shocks) on the cage to 
 allow access for a wrench to crack the bleed nipples.  These are the 
 two shocks that are on the forward facing side of the cage, not the 
 rear set.  A nut on the top and bottom and the shocks are off.  It 
 makes it worlds easier when bleeding the rear brakes.
 
 Robert Abascal '63 XKE OTS & '66 XKE Coupe

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 16:32:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: XJ-S Shell

On Fri, 4 Oct 1996, David Wood wrote:

On Fri, 4 Oct 1996 10:05:30 -0400 (EDT) John Napoli wrote:

This sounds like a real bargain. Is it true?

It was true. Whether there are any left, I don’t know. The notice was
placed some months ago.

Cheers,

Dave Wood.

How do you order one? From a dealer? Or direct to the factory?

John

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 16:46:38 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: 1990 XJS

On Fri, 4 Oct 1996, Kevin Sisterson wrote:

The drivers window won’t go all the way up on the first try or it will go up
with a little push. I’ve lubed the track with silicone dilectric compound but
still no luck.

The window channel needs adjustment (procedure outlined in the service
manual) or if adjustment won’t do it replace the window channel lining.

Are there zerk fittings on the suspension that I should be greasing? Did they
come with grease fittings or do you have to install them?

Oh, yes – quite a few. And some can be overlooked if you don’t know
where thay should be. Check the manual.

John

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 16:57:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: XJ-S Shell

On Fri, 4 Oct 1996, Claus, Mike wrote:

    I guess this is a dumb question, but what is a Shell, and why 
    might I want one?

The shell is the whole unibody, but only sheet metal – no ‘stuff’.

You want one because your old one is rusty or bent.

John

From: Robert_Abascal@ccmail.orl.mmc.com
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 1996 12:36 -0500 (EST)
Subject: XK-8

 I saw the XK-8 last night.  Minor negatives first, the rear badges 
 almost look cartoonish and I can't get excited about a car with a 
 sterile pedigree.  No racing heritage to this car, perhaps with the 
 latest technology and simulations, race testing is not required 
 anymore to develop a performance car such as this.  No mention in any 
 literature I have seen has any diagrams of the suspension.
 
 This is all personal opinion of course, but otherwise just about 
 everything about the car is outstanding.  It's a WONDERFUL car. All of 
 us tech-minded knit-pickers out there need to Kwitcherbitchen!
 
 LONG LIVE JAGUAR!
 
 Robert Abascal '63 XKE OTS & "66 XKE Coupe

From: Robert_Abascal@ccmail.orl.mmc.com
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 1996 08:35 -0500 (EST)
Subject: XK-8

 I saw the XK-8 last night.  Minor negatives first, the rear badges 
 almost look cartoonish and I can't get excited about a car with a 
 sterile pedigree.  No racing heritage to this car, perhaps with the 
 latest technology and simulations, race testing is not required 
 anymore to develop a performance car such as this.  No mention in any 
 literature I have seen has any diagrams of the suspension.
 
 This is all personal opinion of course, but otherwise just about 
 everything about the car is outstanding.  It's a WONDERFUL car. All of 
 us tech-minded knit-pickers out there need to Kwitcherbitchen!
 
 LONG LIVE JAGUAR!
 
 Robert Abascal '63 XKE OTS & "66 XKE Coupe

From: Peter Carpenter 106257.3334@CompuServe.COM
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 19:15:58 -0400
Subject: Local shops and dealers etc

Stefan Schulz:

In countries with libel laws like the UK’s, that could be a problem.

Kirby:

Good point. I don’t suppose jag-lovers would be too interested in
testing the applicability of such laws to Internet “publication”, so
perhaps an alternate idea: simply post the e-mail addresses of those
who have experience with the shop, so that potential customers can
send requests accordingly.

As those in the UK definitely know: Have I got news for you…
“The 420 is THE MOST BEAUTIFUL saloon ever.” Allegedly.
QED

Alternatively, since a certain amount of administration is bound to be
involved (rather than just posting messages), the contributors could grade
a supplier on an A->E type scale, and then Jag-lovers could quote the
number of responses for each grade.

Regards
Peter Carpenter
1967 420
UK

From: mcdowellwil@hardy.texsci.edu
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 19:14:27 -0400
Subject: Jag certificate

Hello all. I am a new member to the world of Jaguar. Over the summer,
I purchased a 1970 Daimler 420 Limo. It was somewhat rough, but I put
quite a bit of work in to it, and now it drives quite nicely.
I have been interested in the history of my particular car since I
purchased it. I have managed to find several owners in the US and the UK.
One owener in New York found a card with the following inscription on it
while oiling the divider window: Personal Card, Her Majesty’s Afternoon
Party, Buckingham Palace, Tuesday, 24th July, 1973. Mr Richard Wheeler.
The really funny thing is that on the back it says the card cannot be replaced
and must be presented at the gate. If it fell between the divider window,
did he ever get to see the Queen? I’m tracking this fellow down with old
newspaper articles.
My real question: The Daimler trust offers a certificate for $40.
Does anyone have one, what does it say on it, and is it worth it?
Is there any other info available for a car like this, e.g. build sheets,
copy of the window sticker, special information.
Any other special info or especially funny stories would also
be appreciated. Bill McDowell

From: viadata@interramp.com (David Hurlston)
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 1996 19:08:55 -0700
Subject: Re: XJS Oil seals and gaskets.

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 4 Oct 96 16:09:02
Subject: Re: XJS Oil seals and gaskets.

If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it…

Aren’t you glad the airlines don’t follow that motto?

From: cobac@ix.netcom.com
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 17:20:55 -0700
Subject: Jaguar Accessories

Hi,
Anyone out there have the Jaguar Accessories Catalog? My dealer has been
out of them, and the shipment hasn’t come in yet, so I haven’t gotten mine.
I was wondering if anyone would be kind enough to tell me about what type
of alarm system they offer (if they offer one) in the catalog and/or what
car phone(s). My '89 only came with the Infra-red unlocking.

Thanks in advance!
cobac@ix.netcom.com

From: Licensed jshuck25@mailhost.cinet.co.cn
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 20:18:49 ±800
Subject: RE: XK8 XJS

this was actually started with the 61 Lincoln conv. The back windows =
lowered when you pushed the door release. The window dropped abouth an =
inch, then raised when the door was closed…next tinme you go to a car =
show…ask the owner of one to show you…pretty cool
of the window before closing the doors is a pretty old feature
introduced by BMW first on the 850 and the series 3 coupe.

From: “Charles Daly” cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 21:59:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Jaguar Screen Savers

Hi,
was going to send this to Mike, but thought others might
want same info;

I can send you a couple of gorgeous red E’s, top down, etc.
I took one of these, used photoshop to change it to a white one,
(mine) then took a head shot of myself, from a business CD, and
inserted “me” in the driver’s seat -all this before my E was finished
and ‘on the road’ I use it as my wallpaper (not screen saver)
I will send you these if you like, or just search the web. If you can’t
find any I have some bookmarked I’ll send you.
Fun!
Charles Daly,
'62 E-Type, ots

Does anyone know if there are any more Jaguar screen savers for Windows
available? I have the XK-8 and the Moss Motoring savers but I would like

to find more, especially of all series of the E-types.

From: MDavid1566@aol.com
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 22:31:22 -0400
Subject: S1 XJ6 Interior Trim

Does anyone have a good source for the door moulding trim for the S1 XJ?

This is the furry clip-on moulding trim which goes around the doors.

Also, since I have never actually liked this furry stip, does anyone have an
alternative door trim which works?

Thanks for the advice.

–David Q.
1971 XJ “Jagalon”

From: MDavid1566@aol.com
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 22:34:25 -0400
Subject: Speedomoter Calibration

Is it possible to adjust the Smiths’ speedometer for calibration purposes
without taking it to a speedo shop?

This is on a S1 XJ. It appears that the rear of the guage has at least one
thumbscrew and some locking nuts. My guage is off slightly. If it is
possible to adjust, what is the range that is possible?

Thanks for the advice!

–David Q. “Jagalon”

From: Kroppe kroppe@mich.com
Date: Fri, 04 Oct 1996 22:49:10 -0400
Subject: I rode in an XK8

Hey folks -

On Thursday I had the good fortune to be invited for a quick ride in a blue XK8 convertible. It was very nice, although the driver was very catious considering the high profile car we were driving. We just ran to get petrol and back. My impressions: Excellent powertrain isolation/refinement. After all, Jaguars have always been about silky smooth power delivery. Veneer is brilliant. I love the huge slab of wood on the fascia, and the centrally positioned minor instruments. Silent operation of convertible top mechanism. Very good underbonnet appearance. One list member mentioned he didn’t see any spark plug wires. That’s because there are none. The XK8 uses coil-on-plug, eliminating spark plug wires as we used to know them. True, there are two wires running to each coil, but they are not spark plug wires in the traditional sense. More to come when I get a “proper” evaluation. B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6 From: petrova petrova@loop.com Date: Fri, 04 Oct 1996 22:02:41 +0000 Subject: Jaguar questions I got this e-mail from a young lady and I do not know any of the answers, thought maybe someone on the list might. ______________________________________________________________ Subject: Juguar Car From: LANDY812@gnn.com (Mikan) To: petrova@loop.com Hello! I am a japanese student in Omaha, Nebraska, and doing research about Juguar Auto Inc… My question is how i can find information of Juguar. 1. the number of Juguar’s cars sold in the US before and after Ford’s acquistion of Juguar 2. this acquistion of Juguar was advantage for Ford? 3. if 2 is no, and then why it wasn’t If u know anything about Juguar company’s financial and organization problems, please tell me know. Thank you for your time!! From Ms. Keiko Yokokawa __________________________________________________________ **************************************** Ana Petrova c/o Peter’s Marina Motors 800 Lincoln Blvd. Venice, California 90291 Tel: 310-399-8313 mailto:petrova@loop.com http://EnglishCars.com ******************************************** From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 00:42:58 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Jaguar Screen Savers Does anyone know if there are any more Jaguar screen savers for Windows available? I have the XK-8 and the Moss Motoring savers but I would like to find more, especially of all series of the E-types. Speaking of… I’ve been looking for some time for pictures/posters of the 78 SCCA Trans-Am champ Group 44 XJS. At one time there was a promotional picture of this car coming out from under the bridge at Road Atlanta, with air under those huge front tires. An awesome shot! If anyone spots any bitmaps of this car, or the Europian equivilent TWR cars, would you kindly point me at them? Randy K. Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net From: “Michael P. Neal” mneal@wco.com Date: Fri, 04 Oct 1996 22:20:21 -0700 Subject: Re: I rode in an XK8 Oh yeah, well I’ve driven three of them so far. This car is the best package Jaguar has ever put together. A little more aggressive power delivery would be good but it is more than adequite. The handling is excellent. Cars are made to be driven so I made sure that the limits were being approached. Of course I wouldn’t recommend this without the years of experience and track time. I’ve considered putting together an in car video for those of you that are XK8 deprived, anyone interested? Kroppe wrote:

Hey folks -

On Thursday I had the good fortune to be invited
for a quick ride in a blue XK8 convertible. It
was very nice, although the driver was very catious
considering the high profile car we were driving.
We just ran to get petrol and back.

My impressions:

Excellent powertrain isolation/refinement.
After all, Jaguars have always been about
silky smooth power delivery.

Veneer is brilliant. I love the huge slab
of wood on the fascia, and the centrally
positioned minor instruments.

Silent operation of convertible top mechanism.

Very good underbonnet appearance. One list
member mentioned he didn’t see any spark plug
wires. That’s because there are none. The XK8
uses coil-on-plug, eliminating spark plug wires
as we used to know them. True, there are two
wires running to each coil, but they are not
spark plug wires in the traditional sense.

More to come when I get a “proper” evaluation.

B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6

========================================================
Michael P. Neal ASE Master Technician, Jaguar Certified
'93 Ducati 900SS '83 Porsche 944 '85 Jaguar XJS
Home (707) 829-8464 Work (707) 577-0101
http://www.wco.com/~mneal (always under construction:-)

From: “roger puttman” rkputty@mail.eisa.net.au
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 10:22:27 +1000
Subject: Re: Are Jags Sexy?

Obviously the first husband didn’t have a Jaguar!
RKPUTTY@MAIL.EISA.NET.AU

From: Makoto & Ann Sado Honjo fm7m-hnjy@asahi-net.or.jp
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Are Jags Sexy?
Date: Saturday, 5 October 1996 1:08

My ex secretary (who has since become a forex dealer, been married,
divorced, and remarried) had the ultimate comment on this subject.
“If a guy on a Mercedes tries to pick me up, I’ll think a bit; but if
a guy on a Jag tries to pick me up, I’ll just say ‘Yes, yes, yes.’”

Makoto Honjo
Phone/Fax +81-3-3473-1848

From: rob.gingell@eng.sun.com (Rob Gingell)
Date: Fri, 4 Oct 1996 23:07:12 -0700
Subject: XK8 Test Drive

Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to attend the XK8 “opening” in the San Jose
area Thursday night, but it’s worked out for the best. Instead of being
one of the throng a late-Friday afternoon visit found a quiet dealership
where spending time with the car wasn’t a problem – including being able
to get a test drive of ~20 miles in a coupe.

After reading the earlier reports from list members (thanks!) and
especially the vague sense of “gosh, it’s not an E-type” I was
concerned that I’d be disappointed in the car. I have no saloon
experience with Jaguars, and save for a recent XJR test drive my sole
prior (and ongoing) Jaguar experience is with a 66 Series I E-type.

After driving it – no, it’s not an E-type. But then, nobody would
build an E-type today either. The E-type is beautiful, but the E-type
is also loud (pleasantly to many of us, but loud nonetheless), hot,
relatively spartan. Pushing the acclerator definitely causes something
to happen now. The manual 4-speed is a smoothly machined precision
instrument. Handling, good, but it wants to go fast more than corner.
Conversation? Difficult. Sound system? Forget it. Environmental
control? Good thing the bay area just has a civil temperature range to
begin with.

Don’t get me wrong – I love my E-type, I’ll keep it forever. (Though,
this morning, having discovered it’s losing brake fluid from somewhere
towards the back, the prospects of having to use the various bleeding
tips posted recently is causing some grinding of teeth…)

But back to the XK8. It’s not the E-type that was built in the 60’s.
But, Is it the E-type one would build today? Pretty close – not even
far off pricewise.

Others have noted that the pictures don’t do it justice – I agree. I
thought I’d find the dashboard “overdone” on the wood – but I didn’t,
it all “fits”. Yes, the louvers are plastic. But you know, the little
metal doors underneath the E-type dash were kind of on the crude side too,
and actually, what else would one do? Wood wouldn’t work, metal’d probably
be dangerous in the event one were actually crass enough to cause the
thing to crash. The leather covered ashtray is, admittedly over the top.

The back end is relatively generic – you can see the XJ220 if you try hard.
But overall the lines are very attractive. Others have noted the fit was
excellent – I agree.

Driving. My chief apprehension was that I just wouldn’t be able to bear
the automatic. In a household where our two daily drivers (generic cars)
and the E-type all have manuals, it would just seem too strange. But,
you know (or maybe you don’t, I didn’t), modern automatics are pretty cool
devices, and certainly the one in the XK8 is very very nice.

The circuit I drove included a local freeway, off onto some roads the
twist and turn into the nearby mountain-like hills. I was able to take
curves warned for 30MPH at 45+, without using the brakes, by manually
operating the left part of the J-gate transmission. On the freeway, in
drive, pushing the pedal caused a nice, smooth delivery of power all the
way up to the legal limit. Well, no, by the time I thought I was at
the legal limit I was about 20MPH beyond it. Very nice. Perhaps not
quite the overall rush that the E-type provides, very nice nonetheless.

On the twists and turns the back end felt a trifle light, but not a squeak out of the tires even while accelerating through the curves. All during which my wife and I were holding a speaking-level conversation which involved the salesperson who’d gotten into the back seat for this adventure. (Frankly, barring an emergency, it’s unlikely I’ll ever ask anyone to sit in the back seat of one again, but it did work out better than I thought it would.) Considering we’ve been semi-seriously discussing carrying a portable aircraft intercom and headsets in the E-type (!), this is a big change. The “it’s not your father’s E-type” postings had me concerned I’d be disappointed – but I wasn’t. In fact I’m quite enthused. Having been test driving this or that over the last several months, if you’re really looking for an E-type that was built today you’re probably not going to get any closer without spending a lot more money, and even then I’m not sure. The infusion of technology is quite remarkable, one of the salespeople I conversed with was brimming with enthusiasm over the sense of being able to claim the leading edge. Well, I have go back to shaking out the furniture to see if any more loose change falls out… End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #406 ******************************** Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4) id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Sat, 5 Oct 1996 19:58:31 +0200 (MET DST) Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 19:58:31 +0200 (MET DST) Message-Id: 199610051758.TAA21759@ekeberg.sn.no X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #407 Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Precedence: bulk X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 5 October 1996 Volume 02 : Number 407 Re: Parts for sale list on the web and Dealer comments Re: XJ40 vs. SIII and beer Re: XK8 XJS Photos XK8 Suspension, plus a little of DB7 Re[2]: Jaguar Screen Savers Re: XK8 vs. Aston-Martin XJ6 S1 interior trim Re[2]: XK8 XJS Re: XK-8 versus Aston-Martin Re: XJ40 vs SIII (the reality) Re: XJ6 S1furflex door trim Re: Beautiful cars. XK8 Re: XK8 vs. Aston-Martin Little things not in the book (XJS V-12) Re[2]: XK-8 versus Aston-Martin From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 03:51:26 -0005 Subject: Re: Parts for sale list on the web and Dealer comments Jim Isbell: 1) a reason not to discourage posts to this list of parts to trade/sell is that some people dont have access to the web. They only have access to E-Mail. There is always a way. Seem to recall there is some scheme whereby you can send an e-mail request, and the contents of a WWW site will be sent to your e-mail address for viewing offline. Perhaps someone recalls the details. In the meantime, I don’t think positive developments should wait for those who cannot seem to get their connections upgraded. We should still discourage – but by no means prohibit – messages about items for sale, and encourage jag-lovers to seek better access. 2) As to bad comments on service providers. If we just mention those places with which we are satisfied then it means anyone not on the list is either not a good place to go, or has never been tried. This will aleviate any worry about liabel. No, no, no, this is not acceptable! A single bad comment on each would probably kill ALL the listings. Also: One way or another, it won’t be long before these businesses are posting THEMSELVES on the list. Who’s gonna tell 'em they can’t be posted because some jag-lovers say they suck? Nah, a better plan is to post all businesses we know exist. If we cannot say anything bad due to liability issues, say nothing at all, but list them anyway. Remember what I originally proposed: the list is the thing, the comments are optional. I still feel that way, believe it is most important to get the list established, whether or not it includes “recommendations” or “ratings” is secondary. Just a Jaguar owner in a particular area knowing that he may have choices OTHER than the dealer will probably go a long way toward improving service! Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | - Palm’s Postulate From: Robert Bradley Robert.Bradley@bh.eyi.com Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 04:01:53 -0500 Subject: Re: XJ40 vs. SIII and beer My first and last comment on an esoteric subject. Lets just say that Jaguars are a bit like beers. There is no such thing as a bad beer, just good beer and better beers. Some are nice when fresh, others age well. Only time will tell. Lets get back to slagging the Taurus and Camry brigade. Robert Bradley. From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR) Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 11:16:02 +0200 Subject: Re: XK8 XJS I did not mean to say that the XJ-S is a sports car. I fully agree it’s GT and I like it this way. I’m just wondering which features make the XK8 a sports car compared to the XJ-S Matthuas From: Fred Bramston fcb@nbnet.nb.ca Date: Sat, 05 Oct 1996 09:23:25 -0300 Subject: Photos I have an original Dealer leaflet of the V12 E-type around here somewhere. (I moved into my new house 3 years ago and still some boxes are packed, due to some more interior finish work required) Complete with specs on one side and 8.5 x 11 photo on the other. When I get that into digital form I’ll forward (both sides) to anyone who E-mails me after I notify the list that it’s ready. Should be pretty good wallpaper or screen-saver. Fred. From: Kroppe kroppe@mich.com Date: Sat, 05 Oct 1996 10:51:21 -0400 Subject: XK8 Suspension, plus a little of DB7 Robert_Abascal@ccmail.orl.mmc.com wrote:

No mention in any
literature I have seen has any diagrams of the suspension.

The XK8 has the rear suspension from the XJ6 (X300/XJ40)saloon.
The upper lateral link is the halfshaft (driveshaft) and
the rest of it I can’t describe the details on, because
I’m not an XJ40 expert. It has the “pendulum” arrangement
with the differential.

The front suspension is all-new for the XK8 only. It has
an isolated cast aluminum subframe, (vs. XJS stamped and welded
steel) with round radial rubber mountings at front, and
compression style mounts at the back of the subframe.
The suspension itself is a double wishbone with revised
geometry vs. XJS and XJ6.

DB7 has the XJS front and rear suspension lock, stock
and barrel. This means it has 4 rear shock/spring
assemblies, and isolated rear cage and two radius arms.
Stamped/welded front subframe with double wishbones.
I don’t want to tread on any XJS toes, so I’ll let them
speak for the details of XJS suspension, but that’s
what the DB7 has.

B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 10:41:33 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: Jaguar Screen Savers

Scan resolution for a full screen image depends on the screen resolution and the
size of the original. For full size 1024x768 wall paper I would need a 10.24" x
7.68" original if I’m scanning at 100 dpi, only 3.41" x 2.56" at 300 dpi. So
the answer is 300 for a small snapshot, 100 for a magazine page. (Magazine
pages generally don’t scan all that well because of the way they’re printed.)

MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Jaguar Screen Savers
Author: dlfreeman@ipa.net (Dave & Linda Freeman) at Internet
Date: 10/4/1996 10:06 AM

   Not necessarily just screen savers - but actually any good 
   digitized images of Jags.  There is plenty of shareware
   available which will allow you to use any image you want as a 
   screen saver - where can we get good, high resolution, Jag
   pics?

   - mclaus ('93 XJ-S)

Am I wrong or is anything much greater than 100 dots per inch wasted on a
screen saver. In the interest of saving hard disk space as well as
bandwidth downloading the images I suggest we do not need “high
resolution”.

Dave and Linda Freeman http://www.ipa.net/~dlfreeman
Living the Good Life

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 10:49:25 -0500
Subject: Re: XK8 vs. Aston-Martin

 Only because A-M is building 200 a year instead of 10,000.  If they 
 were built in equal volumes the A-M wouldn't cost much more than an 
 XK-8.
 
 MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: XK8 vs. Aston-Martin
Author: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com at Internet
Date: 10/4/1996 9:43 AM

I remind everyone that the Aston Martin cost almost as much as
an XK8 plus an XJ6!

Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD

From: per@quantum.ece.ucsb.edu (Per Stenius)
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 96 8:09:14 PDT
Subject: XJ6 S1 interior trim

Hello to you all!
After being in Finland for two months and taking part in my first childs birth
(it is a girl…) I am back in sunny CA. Today is XK Unlimited’s open house,
so my Jag will head towards San Luis Obispo in a few hours.
Anyways, I wanted to comment on David Q’s question about the XJ6 S1 interior:
I think I know what you mean, and I have a strong suspicion that the part
you want is called furflex (at least in XKU’s catalog) and certainly is avai-
lable by the foot. You can call XKU at 1800444jags and ask them, and they
should be able to help you further. You can try talkin to one of their resto-
ration guys in case the sales guys do not seem to know (this is unfortunately
quite often the case there…). I plan to get the same part today, in fact.
Good luck,
Per

Per Stenius (http://www.ece.ucsb.edu/SQO/Per/)
Office: Room 4158C, Engineering I (for mail use addresses below)
Work: Dept. of Elec. Engr., Box 14 Home: 797 Sequoia Walk, Apt. H
University of California Goleta, CA. 93117, USA
Santa Barbara, CA. 93106 Phone: (805) 685 5357
Phone: (805) 893 8664 Fax: Above number, 10pm-8am USWT
Fax: (805) 893 3262 Email: per@quantum.ece.ucsb.edu

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 11:08:45 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: XK8 XJS

This is a Mime message, which your current mail reader
may not understand. Parts of the message will appear as
text. To process the remainder, you will need to use a Mime
compatible mail reader. Contact your vendor for details.

–IMA.Boundary.508825448
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Description: cc:Mail note part

I would imagine that most E-Type series 1 owners will cheerfully point
out that it was the last sports car Jag built. Series 2 owners will
argue the point, but I think that most Series 3 owners would concede
the point. I’ve owned a Series 3 E-Type for 22 years (and an XJ-S for
over 8), but neither is really a sports car in the classic sense. The
early E-Types could go directly from the showroom floor to the track
and be competitive. With no more preparation than modern “showroom
stock” class car they could win in major events. The Series 3 was
more of a GT. Too heavy, A/C for us pampered Americans, automatic
transmissions. I think the main reason for its existence was as a
rolling test bed for the V-12 intended for the XJ-S and the sedans.
Just like the XJ-SC was the test bed for the AJ-6 for several years
before it went into volume production in the XJ-40. The XJ-S is a
good car that is a luxury touring car. If it didn’t suffer from the
3-speed GM automatic it would be a great car.

Yes, both the Series 3 E-Type and XJ-S were successful racers. But
only after considerable reconstruction by very experienced and well
backed teams.

MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: XK8 XJS
Author: mkenrick@golder.com (Michael Kenrick) at Internet
Date: 10/4/1996 10:19 AM

 Matthias wonders about the good old XJ-S:

I’ve read several times now that the XK8 is finally the first real
sports car after the E-type. Being somewhat biased to the XJS, which in my eyes
is a very beautifull sports car, I am wondering what makes the XK8 a sports car
compared to the XJS. Is it :

 Don't let such taxonomic niceties get to you.  If you think yours is a 
 sports car, that's fine I suppose.  I know mine is a Grande Tourer, 
 despite what dubious racing pedigree it may have.

transmission (at least the 3.6/4.0 ltr models had an optinonal manual
option)

The XJ-S V12 transmission is a dog. I have mine upgraded with a
better torque convertor and aggressive change points. It is still a
dog. The longer I own my beautiful Grande Tourer, the more I have to
accept that this piece of old but robust 3-speed American junk they
call a trany can never be considered part of a true sports car.
weight (due to “non-sport” extras like A/C etc)

The XJ-S is way too heavy to be considered a true sports car. Grande
Tourer, yes. They need it heavy for that wonderful ride. And I’d
personally rather keep the AC, and all other extras that make the XJ-S
such a wwondeful car (tranny notwithstanding!).
XJ-S not having fancy leather-covered ash trays

hehehe

Michael Kenrick
–IMA.Boundary.508825448–

From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 11:32:06 -0400
Subject: Re: XK-8 versus Aston-Martin

On Oct 3, 10:17am, Mike Cogswell wrote:

Subject: XK-8 versus Aston-Martin

 And best of all, the A-M has a 5-speed!  If A-M (not to mention
 Ferrari) can sell expensive 2+2 GTs with a 5-speed, why in the hell
 can't Jaguar

I agree, but A-M is not planning to get many orders (if any!) for the 5-speed,
the Jag has no manual box because their research showed that they would also
sell almost none of them. So why spend the development money? Blame the
customers.

The rear
end is an absolute slam dunk in favor of the A-M.

The designer of the DB-7, Ian Callum, is a friend of mine. I literally dropped
him at Walkinshaws door (near Oxford) in 1990 when he left Ford to work on the
DB-7 (then I drove his Escort Cabriolet lease car back to Dunton to turn in).
He is a great guy and a great designer. I worked for him at Ghia (Italy) in
1988 and again at Dunton, England in '90. I now work for his little brother,
Moray. Moray did the Ghia Vignale. In fact, Moray is standing next to my desk
not knowing that I am writing about him and his brother. But, this said, I
disagree on the rear of the DB-7 being better than the XK8. Over all I’d still
take the DB-7 over the XK8, but I do not like the filler around the DB-7s tail
lights. The XK8 is a nicer work out. I followed a BRG convertible XK8 around
Dearborn a week ago and I think it looked very good. In the studio I did not
like the rear bumper work out, but on the road it really does look good, and I
firmly believe it is every inch a Jaguar. The car really impresses me. Like the
Etype, I do think it looks best in dark colors.

Featured with the two XK-8s was a “never-been-titled” '74 E-Type OTS…

Careful, the S3s are an easy target. The Etype did not grow old gracefully and
the S3 is proof. The list of design indignitys that the Etype suffered in its
final form is too long to enumerate, to say nothing of its regression from
sports car to “boulevard cruiser”. My father has one. Sorry, but I’d take the
XK8.

These are my opinions - not Fords(!).

Mark McChesney
S1 Etype ots

From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 11:50:54 -0400
Subject: Re: XJ40 vs SIII (the reality)

On Oct 4, 10:12am, Shane Gibson wrote:

Subject: Re: XJ40 vs SIII (the reality)
Mike Cogswell wrote:

Having said that, I can state without reservation that the XJ-6/12 >Series
III is obviously the most beautiful Jag sedan ever produced.

I am sorry guys (and gals) but I can remain silent no longer.

The MK II is the most beautiful Jag sedan ever produced.

IMHO you are right. The XJ6/12 (S1,2,or3) comes in a close 2nd!

Mark McChesney

From: hdrsons@iamerica.net (Hal Rogers)
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 1996 11:14:31 -0600
Subject: Re: XJ6 S1furflex door trim

At 08:09 AM 10/5/96 PDT, Per Stenius wrote:

Hello to you all!
After being in Finland for two months and taking part in my first childs birth
(it is a girl…) I am back in sunny CA. Today is XK Unlimited’s open house,
so my Jag will head towards San Luis Obispo in a few hours.
Anyways, I wanted to comment on David Q’s question about the XJ6 S1 interior:
I think I know what you mean, and I have a strong suspicion that the part
you want is called furflex (at least in XKU’s catalog) and certainly is avai-
lable by the foot. You can call XKU at 1800444jags and ask them, and they
should be able to help you further. You can try talkin to one of their resto-
ration guys in case the sales guys do not seem to know (this is unfortunately
quite often the case there…). I plan to get the same part today, in fact.
Good luck,
Per

Yes, I believe that he is also referring to Furflex…although if you do not
like the fuzzy seal, then an alternative without the fuzz is available
usually by the yard or foot. XKs may offer the alternative too. My company
also sells this type of product too should anyone be interested.

Best Regards,
Hal

Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
Import Auto Specialists
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax

Serving Auto Enthusiasts since 1959

From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 12:19:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Beautiful cars.

On Oct 4, 2:55pm, Dave Brown - London Dev X1818 wrote:

Subject: Re: Beautiful cars.
IMHO, The Jaguar C-type was one of the most seductive and beautiful cars ever
produced. Not a regular car, but gorgeous all the same.

David Brown,
brownd@ml.com

Bill Borden, who is a former list member (and another Ford stylist), is a very
SERIOUS C-type fanatic. Bill is retiring soon and we (the studio) would like to
buy him a scale C-type, but I can’t find anything larger than 1/43. Anyone know
of anything in say a 1/18th??? Bill owns an aluminum body XK120 - full
size:-).

Thanks
Mark McChesney

From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 1996 10:17:11 -0700
Subject: XK8

Luckily there is a series of racetrack type corners several miles from the
dealer. As I was hustling the car through them I noticed that it felt like
the car was steering from the rear. It seems that the rear suspension
bushings could be a little firmer to prevent the rear geometry changes that
are allowing this to happen. The XJR has the same rear suspension and
tires, the next chance I get I’ll have to test it through the same area.
The 94 XJ12 motor, pre OBDII, has the most power so far. The low end
torque and the raw feel can almost edge out the XK8 V8. I think that the
XK8 has full time traction control because it is very difficult to get the
tires to break loose at low speed. The XJR and the XJ12 have switchable
traction control and you have to be cautious with the throttle when you
have it turned off.

From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 1996 10:23:08 -0700
Subject: Re: XK8 vs. Aston-Martin

Actually it would probably cost a lot less. The A-M uses a lot of Jag
parts. The problem is that they are not the latest generation, more on par
with a '94 car before the X300 came out. They will still sell ok just for
the collector value. There are several good web sites for the A-M if
anyone is interested at taking a look at them.

At 10:49 AM 10/5/96 -0500, Mike Cogswell wrote:

Only because A-M is building 200 a year instead of 10,000.  If they 
were built in equal volumes the A-M wouldn't cost much more than an 
XK-8.

MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator

Subject: XK8 vs. Aston-Martin
Author: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com at Internet
Date: 10/4/1996 9:43 AM

I remind everyone that the Aston Martin cost almost as much as
an XK8 plus an XJ6!

–

Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 1996 11:33:04 -0500
Subject: Little things not in the book (XJS V-12)

Here is an example of the types of things that Haynes leaves out of their
manual.

They assume that any work on the timing chain will be with the engine on the
bench and open so they dont even mention the “timming chain tensioner plug”
on the front of the block.

I had the water pump off so decided to replace it while in there. I had no
idea that there were two types of plugs, or so it seems. The replacement I
got from the shop was rubber and soft. The one I am trying to remove is
hard plactic and very brittle. Everytime I touch it another piece falls off
and I cannot seem to remove it.

It appears, if the hard one is shaped like the soft one, that it should
probably be rotated to the left and then pulled straight out. There appears
to be about 160 degrees of rotation possible, but the tabs are broken off so
I am just guessing that the tabs once rotated from vertical at full
counter-clockwise to almost back to vertical at full clockwise.

Which way is out?

I would try to break it up if I was sure I wouldnt drop pieces into the
crank case. But I am not sure of that and in fact am sure some of it would
fall in.

At present the taps are off so it will push in about 1/2" and pull out until
the interior tabs hit, so it isnt stuck, just not oriented to pull out.

It aparently was leaking because the PO had put locktite sealant all around it.

Anyone know how to get this damned thing out? My reassembly is held up
until I find an answer. There goes the week end because no one is watching
on the week end so I wont get an answer till Monday!

Kirby, If I get an answer to this it needs to be in your book!

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 13:45:09 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: XK-8 versus Aston-Martin

This is a Mime message, which your current mail reader
may not understand. Parts of the message will appear as
text. To process the remainder, you will need to use a Mime
compatible mail reader. Contact your vendor for details.

–IMA.Boundary.661835448
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Description: cc:Mail note part

If they aren’t planning on building any 5-speeds, and their volumes are
going be be about 2% of the XK-8 volume, then how do you explain A-M
spending the development money for a 5-speed? Any why have the DB-7s I’ve
read about had manual transmissions? The R&T road test makes no mention of
an automatic even being available in the DB-7.

I’m not surprised a Ford designer would prefer the XK-8 rear. Do your
desks also look like jellybeans?

As for the E-Type. I’m not the one who had it on the floor next to the
XK-8s. Nor will I waste my time trying to argue that the Series 3 E-Type
is the pinnacle of automotive styling. It’s a beautiful car in many ways,
but I agree completely that virtually every styling change made from '61 to
'74 was a step away from the purity of the original design. (And I’ve
owned a '74 E-Type since it was new.) My point was clear. A big chunk of
the target audience spent most of their time looking at the E-Type instead
of the XK-8.

MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: XK-8 versus Aston-Martin
Author: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com at Internet
Date: 10/5/1996 11:32 AM

On Oct 3, 10:17am, Mike Cogswell wrote:

Subject: XK-8 versus Aston-Martin

 And best of all, the A-M has a 5-speed!  If A-M (not to mention
 Ferrari) can sell expensive 2+2 GTs with a 5-speed, why in the hell 
 can't Jaguar

I agree, but A-M is not planning to get many orders (if any!) for the 5-speed,
the Jag has no manual box because their research showed that they would also
sell almost none of them. So why spend the development money? Blame the
customers.

The rear
end is an absolute slam dunk in favor of the A-M.

I disagree on the rear of the DB-7 being better than the XK8. Over all I'd still take the DB-7 over the XK8, but I do not like the filler around the DB-7s tail lights. The XK8 is a nicer work out. I followed a BRG convertible XK8 around Dearborn a week ago and I think it looked very good. In the studio I did not like the rear bumper work out, but on the road it really does look good, and I firmly believe it is every inch a Jaguar. The car really impresses me. Like the Etype, I do think it looks best in dark colors.

Featured with the two XK-8s was a “never-been-titled” '74 E-Type OTS…

Careful, the S3s are an easy target. The Etype did not grow old gracefully and
the S3 is proof. The list of design indignitys that the Etype suffered in its
final form is too long to enumerate, to say nothing of its regression from
sports car to “boulevard cruiser”. My father has one. Sorry, but I’d take the
XK8.

These are my opinions - not Fords(!).

Mark McChesney
S1 Etype ots

–IMA.Boundary.661835448–

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #407

Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4)
id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Sun, 6 Oct 1996 22:10:40 +0200 (MET DST)
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 1996 22:10:40 +0200 (MET DST)
Message-Id: 199610062010.WAA06987@ekeberg.sn.no
X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f
From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #408
Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Precedence: bulk
X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest

jag-lovers-digest Sunday, 6 October 1996 Volume 02 : Number 408

Re: Parts for sale list on the web and Dealer comments
Beer and Jaguars
XK8
Re: Most Beautiful! XJ40 vs SIII (the reality)
Start&Stop-More Data
oil pressure
Re: Power window conversion
Jag owners are such nice people!
Re: 1990 XJS clicking sound
sir william at 50 rpm
oil pressure
jJaguar Images
XJ6 S1 furflex…
Re: Little things not in the book (XJS V-12)
Re: RF Modulation CD Player units
Re: XK8 XJS
Buying an XJS
XJS timming chain tensioner plug
“Your Bleedin’ Heart (read E-Type brakes)”

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 1996 14:00:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Parts for sale list on the web and Dealer comments

Kirby said:

No, no, no, this is not acceptable! A single bad comment on each
would probably kill ALL the listings.

Also: One way or another, it won’t be long before these businesses
are posting THEMSELVES on the list. Who’s gonna tell 'em they can’t
be posted because some jag-lovers say they suck?

You were not listening to what I said.

I didnt say a bad comment should remove a listing, I said there should be no
bad comments. In other words if you cant say something good, dont say
anything at all.
This would mean that everyone whould have had a bad comment to keep a name
off the list. Or in other words If one person had a good comment the name
would be on the list, with that good comment. If a name was missing because
no one had anything good to say, it would be telling in its absence.

In the meantime, I don’t think positive developments should wait for
those who cannot seem to get their connections upgraded.

As to your comments on the people who dont have web access, I find that
rather snobish. Some people, either for reasons of cost or for reasons of
location do not have the access.

I, for one, want to reach the largest audience if I am selling ot trading
something and will therefore continue to post to the list because I dont
want to miss a potential customer!! In the future PERFECT world where
EVERYONE has a web browser I will follow your lead.

The WEB is not the “be all and end all” of the internet. It is a small
percentage of the internet. E Mail is a much larger and more important part
of the internet since it fosters direct interaction between people around
the world. The WEB is the Disnyland of the internet. Dare I say MM?

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 1996 14:10:25 -0500
Subject: Beer and Jaguars

I personaly think there is no such thing as a Good beer. I have never seen
what one can see in something that tastes like it has already been drunk by
another person.

I find Burbon and good wine to be very tasty, but beer is bitter and salty.

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: TezFair@aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 16:27:55 -0400
Subject: XK8

Hiya XK8 fans,

I’m glad that most of you have now either driven one or at least drooled over
one. Anway, I have got around to creating an XK8 website with bits and bobs
on it. I intend to add more information as and when Jag release it. The
current down side was that my scanner decided to play up so the pics are not
the best, but as soon as I get better scanned images I will replace them.

keep drooling

Tez
Superduper V8 fitter

From: David Hallam D.Hallam@mailbox.uq.oz.au
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 1996 07:11:08 +1000 (GMT+1000)
Subject: Re: Most Beautiful! XJ40 vs SIII (the reality)

For a modern car the Mk2 is wonderful but for real beauty the SS100, 3.5
saloon and Mk4 cannot be surpassed.
Or the Daimler low chassis Doulbe Sixes from 1930?
Historic perspective seems lacking.

Now for the worst boot, backend it would have to be the DB18 Daimler or
was it the XJS?
/dlh.

Mike Cogswell wrote:

I am sorry guys (and gals) but I can remain silent no longer.
The MK II is the most beautiful Jag sedan ever produced.

David Hallam http://www.uq.edu.au/`qmdhalla
Senior Scientist
Materials Conservation
Queensland Museum d.hallam@mailbox.uq.edu.au
*** Without Treatment Development our past can only rot ***
____ Daimlers can be fun too! _____

From: rjs2v@uva.pcmail.virginia.edu
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 20:39:24 -0400
Subject: Start&Stop-More Data

Thanks for the comments on the starting & stopping XJ6. I am
gald to know I am not alone. I had some time this afternoon, to
work on it a bit more. I hope this addiitonal data will strike a
chord in someone’s memory, and I can add to my list of things to
try.

This is a 85, Series III, 4.2 fule injected (and very pretty in
BRG.) The car starts promptly, after a few cranks, and runs at
about 1000RPM. It runs smoothly and then begins to settle down
to 800 and then 700 RPM. When the temp gets just above 50, the
car settles down to its idle, at abount 500RPM. But then it dies.
I drove it around the block and it died going down the hil, as I
took my foot off the accelerator. I got it restarted and got it
home by keeping the gas on. Once in the garageI blocked the
accelerator, so that the engine stayed at 1000RPM. I could not
get the temp up to 90, but when it got to about 75, I took the
block of the accelerator and it idled down just fine. It ran for
about five minutes that way, stumbling a bit – but it always
did. I finally turned it off, wondering what causes the problem
in the warm, not hot, not cool range.

While it ran, I put my head in the trunck to listen to the fule
stuff: There is a steady buzz, and a not-so-steady ca-wish, or
something like that. I assume the buzz it the fuel pump? I
assume the stumbling ca wish, or gurgle, is the return valve,
accepting the overrun gas from the rail? Or is the stumbling
gurgle a sound like a bad fule pump?

My mechanic suggested that i first change the fuel filters, and I
will do that this week. But it is hard to accept the idea that
it might be fule related when it starts every time, even when
warm, and that it seems to run well when hot.

Any suggestions for leads will be greatly appreciated.

Bob Sack
1985 XJ6
1959 XK 150

Robert J. Sack
phone 804 924 4814
fax 804 924 4859

From: Nona canoe@onlink.net
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 1996 21:15:48 -0700
Subject: oil pressure

Oil Pressure on E types

I have rebuilt engines on XK’s and E type prior to 1965.The oil pressure
relief valve is very soft and seems to wear excessively and leaks
pressure. If I can’t replace, I lap the valve head into the seat with
fine valve grinding paste and shim the spring to give 55-60 lbs. pressure
at 3000 RPM. Various grades of oil seem to only change the pressure at
RPMS less than 1500. My XK140 with about 2000 miles on rebuilt engine has
about 30 lbs. At idle and 58-60 at normal highway speeds. Prior to
rebuild I have used 10:40, 20:50 and 30. No difference on highway speed
oil pressure. The Jag oil pump is able to produce more pressure and
volume than the engine will need and if you exceed about 60 lbs. the cam
chambers will fill up with oil and won’t drain back until the RPMs
decrease below about 1500. An accurate test is to install as oil and
temperature gauge. If you have a sudden climb in oil temperature after
reducing the RPMs it will indicate a hot oil gush down from the top end.
I have an increase of about 20 degrees F. and I think this is OK. I have
examined XK engines that have been using #30 and 20:50 oil and have found
excessive wear on the front cam bearings ---- the last to get oil feed. I
have recently changed to Castrol Syntec 5W50. Hoping that the lower
viscosity cold will get the oil to the bearings sooner. I have noticed
that I have increased manifold vacuum, lower oil temperature and an
increase of about 200 RPM.
I have heard recently that Porche has recommended the use of synthetic
oil in their ugly little cars-----but the Germans are good mechanics.
Possibly consider synthetics as a way of getting more mile out of our
cats. My last oil and filter change cost more than my first car (Ford)
but I think it will be worth it in the long run.
There seems to be a lot of strange electrical problems with recent Jags.
Anybody consider an exorcism? I thought about this with a Dodge I once
had.
Bill Schorse Ontario Canada
canoe@onlink.net

From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@CompuServe.COM
Date: 03 Oct 96 06:04:51 EDT
Subject: Re: Power window conversion

Shene,

I dont know how the window wind mechanisms work on a 420 G.
The XJ6 El windows is not consisting only of the motor itself but also of the
gear mechanism, which basivallu lifts the window with a lever arm that
slides in a list at the bottom of the glass.
Additionally there is a wire system with rollers inside another (stationary)
frame lined with felt with guides the sides of the window.

You can maybe cut and paste all this to fit inside the door of the 420G, but I’m
sure thatt is a major task.

I think you would be better off trying to obtain an external motor and gear
assembly
at the size of a large sigarette pack which fits flat and snugly over the manual
handle
shaft. These can be found as general upgrade kits not necessarily associated
with jags.
If you dont like this the next best is to fiddle something inside the door
using
the existing lever system and the XJ6 wind motor.

Have never tryed this, seems you get the chance to pioneer this task.

Regards Jeffrey Gram

From: “George W. Cohn” gwcohn@azstarnet.com
Date: Sat, 05 Oct 1996 20:23:56 -0700
Subject: Jag owners are such nice people!

I met a fellow E-Type owner this afternoon. My wife and I had been out
shopping and as we were coming home, she spotted a beautiful Regency Red
70 E-type FHC in a local donut shop parking lot. I made a U-turn and
pulled in next to the car. It had an Arizona personalized license plate
“70 JAG”. It appeared to be in Concours condition. I went into the
donut shop, asked who owned the E and introduced myself. We sat and
chatted for at least 15 minutes.

He has owned the car about two years and didn’t know the first thing
about them when he bought it! He was attracted by the looks and bought it
two days later. He still doesn’t know much about them mechanically and
takes it to a local mechanic to have any repairs done. His biggest
complaint is that no matter how trivial the problem, it always seems to
cost at least $200 and take a month to get the part. Never the less, he
wouldn’t sell the car for any amount.

When was the last time you saw a “lump” in a shopping center and wanted
to meet the owner?

From: Robert Bradley Robert.Bradley@bh.eyi.com
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 1996 00:52:16 -0500
Subject: Re: 1990 XJS clicking sound

Sorry for the shotgun reply but my email gateway has lost the senders address.
However maybe someone else can answer the question on more durable front, top
shock absorber mounts.

Somebody with a recently acquired XJS asked:
Problem number two is a clicking sound coming from the right front wheel when
going over bumps. Time for a new shock?

This is unlikely to be the shocker, just the top shocker mount. The
underneath pad tends to go first hence making it less obvious. I have now
replaced 7 out of 8 pairs of these on the 4 cars I have (or had). They seem to
go through them faster than nappies in a maternity ward/condoms in a whorehouse
(choose prefered analogue). On that note I don’t know if there is an after
market alternative available which is more durable but doesn’t affect the quiet
factor - try your local Jag parts supplier.

Robert Bradley
82 XJ, 82 Daimler, 87 XJ-S (still in workshop, I’m pining)

From: Licensed jshuck25@mailhost.cinet.co.cn
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 1996 10:07:50 ±800
Subject: sir william at 50 rpm

yep ole’ sir william must be spinning in his grave…he achieved his =
intended purpose…to design a car that we would lust after, yet still =
afford. Here we are arguing which looks the best…the guy was a =
genius! I know he didn’t do the later stuff, but who ever did had =
his/her finger on the pulse of guess who…John Shuck, Beijing, xk120, =
e-type, others, plus 2 wheel brit stuff…

From: DHarr13177@aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 1996 10:46:59 -0400
Subject: oil pressure

Why did the oil pressure at cruise on my 66 E type go up 5 psi when I put
more oil in ? : 10 qts instead of 9. ( 8.5 liters - 9 US qts is specified for
oil fill ) 11 qts is necessary to fill to the top dipstick mark . The oil
pump pickup should be covered either way. Motor recently rebuilt.

Doug

From: Brian Pel BPEL@mccarthy.ca
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 1996 11:13:01 -0400
Subject: jJaguar Images

There is a very nice downloadable high resolution image on the XKs Unlimited
Net site which I use as wallpaper - it features an SS100, XK-150 DHC and a
Series I ETYPE grouped together in an English manor house courtyard.

From: per@quantum.ece.ucsb.edu (Per Stenius)
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 96 8:33:28 PDT
Subject: XJ6 S1 furflex…

Hi! I commented on David Q’s mail earlier and suggested that the stuff he is
after might be called “furflex” (ie. the molding that goes around the door -
but not the posts - of an XJ6 S1). Well, when I visited XKU yesterday it turned
out that furflex will NOT do the job, and that this part is not really availa-
ble (at least not at XKU or any other source I know) except in black…
Hal Rogers siad he sells this product, but I am not sure whether he meant
furflex (which works fine for earlier models, but apparently not for the XJ6
S1) or something that would work for the XJ6 S1. Any comments Hal?

Per Stenius (http://www.ece.ucsb.edu/SQO/Per/)

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 1996 12:44:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Little things not in the book (XJS V-12)

Jim: The plug that you are trying to remove was once soft and made of
rubber, now you see what heat will do over a period of time. Just keep
digging at the thing that is the only way to get it out. Then apply a
thin coat of GM Gasket Sealling Compound part No. 1050026( stuff never
gets hard) and press in the new plug and you are good to go.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212 USA 803 798 3044On
Sat, 5 Oct 1996, James A. Isbell wrote:

Here is an example of the types of things that Haynes leaves out of their
manual.

They assume that any work on the timing chain will be with the engine on the
bench and open so they dont even mention the “timming chain tensioner plug”
on the front of the block.

I had the water pump off so decided to replace it while in there. I had no
idea that there were two types of plugs, or so it seems. The replacement I
got from the shop was rubber and soft. The one I am trying to remove is
hard plactic and very brittle. Everytime I touch it another piece falls off
and I cannot seem to remove it.

It appears, if the hard one is shaped like the soft one, that it should
probably be rotated to the left and then pulled straight out. There appears
to be about 160 degrees of rotation possible, but the tabs are broken off so
I am just guessing that the tabs once rotated from vertical at full
counter-clockwise to almost back to vertical at full clockwise.

Which way is out?

I would try to break it up if I was sure I wouldnt drop pieces into the
crank case. But I am not sure of that and in fact am sure some of it would
fall in.

At present the taps are off so it will push in about 1/2" and pull out until
the interior tabs hit, so it isnt stuck, just not oriented to pull out.

It aparently was leaking because the PO had put locktite sealant all around it.

Anyone know how to get this damned thing out? My reassembly is held up
until I find an answer. There goes the week end because no one is watching
on the week end so I wont get an answer till Monday!

Kirby, If I get an answer to this it needs to be in your book!

–
Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: averill@earthlink.net (Steve Averill)
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 1996 09:58:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: RF Modulation CD Player units

At 1:17 PM 9/25/96, Kirbert wrote:

Just a side note: Have you guys noticed that portable CD players are
now available for under $200 that come with 10-second buffers and a
kit to connect to a car stereo? Just plug in, set on the seat,
console, floor or in the glovebox.

Unfortunately, none of them’ll work with the 8 Track player in my XJ6C like
a trunk CD changer would. We got a portable player (Sony) for my wife’s
minivan that works pretty well. Sound from the lousy British Leyland 8
Track wouldn’t suffer much in any event from something coming in over the
FM band. On second thought, reading what I just wrote, the 8 Track’s
coming out & getting wrapped up. That way I’ll have it in the unlikely
event that XJ6C’s with original 8 Tracks become a “hot ticket.” Certainly,
the 8 Track’s not worth more than a buck or two at a garage sale anyway.
-Steve A.
'67 E Type Coupe
'76 XJ6C
'91 XJ40

From: JAShevelew@aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 1996 15:19:49 -0400
Subject: Re: XK8 XJS

In a message dated 96-10-04 03:52:24 EDT, mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias
FOUQUET-LAPAR) writes:

<< I’ve read several times now that the XK8 is finally the first real
sports car after the E-type. Being somewhat biased to the XJS, which in my
eyes
is a very beautifull sports car, I am wondering what makes the XK8 a sports
car
compared to the XJS. Is it :

racing success (have not seen any XK8 race yet)
performance (the numbers HP and torque seem to better for the V12)
transmission (at least the 3.6/4.0 ltr models had an optinonal manual
option)
weight (due to “non-sport” extras like A/C etc)
XJ-S not having fancy leather-covered ash trays
Matthias

1988 XJ-S V12 (and if I had the money, my additinal car would be a XJ-S
cabriolet. V12 of course)

I have to add a strong second to this posting. After driving the XK8 for
about an hour I have to say that there are many things about my XJS
convertible which I like better.

On the good side:

I was relatively impressed by the XK8’s finish (though the badge on the front
hood was quite crooked and it seems that no thought went into where the front
license plate would mount (for those places with two plates).

It’s great that you can open and close the convertible top without bringing
the car to a full stop.

The electronics were nice and the sound system more than adequate.

On the down side:

I thought the acceleration was moderate off the line (fairly typical Jag
automatic). My 4.0L XJS feels stronger.

While the car handled nicely in tight highly accelerated turns (over 60mph) I
thought the steering felt a bit unsure as compared with my XJS in similar
situations.

And finally, while the styling is quite striking, it does seem to have that
Ford Taurus look from the rear. The XK8 could be mistaken for other model
vehicles. Nobody seems to ever have a problem recognizing an XJS. It’s
styling remains distinctive and polished.

I believe that the XK8 will certainly be a hit. The dealership I was in had
already sold the seven cars they’d received for a substantial “over list”
markup. On a personal level, I think the car has a ways to go to live before
it lives up to its heritage.

Jonathon Shevelew
'95 XJS 4.0L, Conv.
'93 XJ40 VDP
'96 Explorer (something the kids can get dirty)

From: Paul Rance paul@rance.u-net.com
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 1996 20:19:55 +0100
Subject: Buying an XJS

Hi,

I`m about to buy my first Jaguar , an XJS 3.6. Can anyone give me some pointers
as to what to look for when buying one ie rust problem areas, mechanical checks,
oil pressure,etc

I`m looking for one around 1988 (UK model).

thanks alot in advance.

Paul

Paul Rance paul@rance.u-net.com
WWW: metro.turnpike.net/P/paulr/index.html

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 1996 13:38:01 -0500
Subject: XJS timming chain tensioner plug

I got it out!

The method is to drill a hole in the center of the plug with a small drill.
Large enough to push a nail through. Then get a long nail (3") and bend the
end (1/3") into almost a hook, about 80 degrees of bend.

Push the end of the nail into the hole and rotate it till it can be used to
pull on the plug. Now pull out pieces of the center of the plug untill
there is a fairly large hole in it. This releases some of the tension that
holds the sides of the plug outwards. As the hole gets bigger you can bend
the nail into a real hook to make sure any pieces fall outside rather than
inside. Now use a flat bladed screwdriver to pry the thing out.

Strangely, it is the outside of the plug that hardens and the interior parts
are realatively soft yet whhich leads me to believe that it is under hood
temps, not engine temps that harden the plug.

I am thinking of removing the plug and cutting the interior tabs off of it
then it would pull out readily. To hold it against any positive crankcase
pressure I will build a small bracket that will press very lightly on the
top of the plug and be held into position by a bolt on the water pump.

Kirby, add this to your book!

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: rrichardson@eurekanet.com (Robert J. Richardson)
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 1996 16:12:37 -0500
Subject: “Your Bleedin’ Heart (read E-Type brakes)”

Bear with me because this intital paragraph will lead to the essentials of
the removal and refitting of E-Type master cylinders and the “simple” task
of bleeding the front and rear brakes.
I have the Jaguar Shop Manual for my 1964 FHC and long have considered it a
valuable asset in maintaining a 32-year-old machine. Before I moved
back to this small Southeastern Ohio village (to prepare budding
journalists for a life of deadlines and small pay raises), the shop manual
was perused primarily for reading pleasure. In Florida I had mechanics who
restored Deusenbergs and ancient Rolls; they used shop manuals primarily to
check tolerances.
So when recently I discovered a puddle of brake fluid under the Jag, I
opened the good old manual and read that removing the master cylinders (the
bottom one was spirting fluid through a ragged rubber dust extruder) was
the simple task of unfastening the metal brake fluid pipes and then
removing four bolts and a rod secured by a clevis pin. Simple task! Not on
your life! Many sweaty hours later (my left lower arm and hand a bloody
mess due to sharp metal protrusions and my being one of those “Zipper” guys
like Larry King on blood thinner for life) and I finally had the master
cylinders packed for shipment to Imperial Machine in Lincoln, NE, for
resleeving with stainless steel. The bottom one was leaking brake fluid,
but at $60 for resleeving I figured having the top one also resleeved would
be a good investiment. The stone guard beneath the master cylinders and
manifold was now rust free forever with its liberal coating of brake fluid
and water-thin blood.
I concluded that the shop manual author had to have a masochistic bent to
say in words to this effect, “remove the two lower bolts secured by lock
nuts, remove the clevis pin with a suitable device and withdraw the master
cylinder.”
Lesson learned: A skilled mechanic with the proper tools (and no shop
manual) could have done the job in 30 minutes or less. However, in my small
town I couldn’t find a mechanic, skilled or otherwise, willing to work on
my “furin” car.
Then I read the instructions on the bleeding of the rear and front brakes.
Simple. Unscrew the bleed nipple one turn on the brake farthest from the
master cylinder… You guessed it. The writer had observed this being done
by a factory mechanic while the rear suspension was out of the car and
inverted to boot. Nice shiny, new bleed nipple right out there where it
could be turned with a garden-variety open-end wrench.
I now realize I had made two major mistakes: 1) I trusted the bleed
directions in the manual and 2) based on this information, I had purchased
metal ramps instead of a floor jack and jack stands in order to gain crawl
space under the rear of the E-Type. Today, trouble light in hand, I managed
to barely squeeze my head past the exhaust pipes to get a close look at the
bleed nipples. Yes, I could see them, barely, but the front coil springs
and dampers blocked the use of any known wrench. And the car being on ramps
probably means that these units can’t be removed to gain access to the
bleed nipples.
So, take this bleedin’ advice about bleeding brakes: If you aren’t a
skilled restorer type with all the proper tools including jack stands, find
a mechanic who has worked on Jags, is good on working on Jags and likes to
work on Jags. Pay him whatever his going rate and feel blessed that he
exists.
My only recourse now is to install the resleeved master cylinders (I can
wrap my arms and kick the Coumadin for a week) and bleed the front brakes
(served by the lower master cylinder) with a one-man bleed kit. This should
give me enough stopping power to sneak up to Columbus, Ohio, in the
pre-traffic wee hours of the morning where there is a Jag dealer who’ll hit
me with $55 an hour for labor. And while he’s at it, he can adjust the
clutch slave cylinder for 1/16" clearance and rebleed the front brakes as
well. A shop manual may provide a quick fix for the gifted Jag addict with
a well-equipped shop, but it may be a a booby-trap for a novice mechanic
such as I.

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #408

Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4)
id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Mon, 7 Oct 1996 15:44:35 +0200 (MET DST)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 15:44:35 +0200 (MET DST)
Message-Id: 199610071344.PAA28811@ekeberg.sn.no
X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f
From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #409
Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Precedence: bulk
X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest

jag-lovers-digest Monday, 7 October 1996 Volume 02 : Number 409

Re: Start&Stop-More Data
Parting out Jaguar MkII Saloon
Parts Wanted-Jag MKII saloon
Request for information: SS100
Re: oil pressure
Behind the wheel of the XK-8 cabriolet
Re: Most Beautiful! XJ40 vs SIII (the reality)
Jaguar Sheepskin Covers
XK-8s at Sebring
Re:RF Modulation CD Player units
Speedo Recalibration
scary Jaguar problem
Dealer listing
S type questions
V12 exhaust system
XJ6 Series III Door Disassembly
XK-8 (little jag content)
Wrinkled Wing
Re: XJS timming chain tensioner plug

From: scoleman@pcl.net (Steve Coleman)
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 1996 16:23:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Start&Stop-More Data

rjs2v@uva.pcmail.virginia.edu wrote:

Thanks for the comments on the starting & stopping XJ6. I am
gald to know I am not alone. I had some time this afternoon, to
work on it a bit more. I hope this addiitonal data will strike a
chord in someone’s memory, and I can add to my list of things to
try.

This is a 85, Series III, 4.2 fule injected (and very pretty in
BRG.) The car starts promptly, after a few cranks, and runs at
about 1000RPM. It runs smoothly and then begins to settle down
to 800 and then 700 RPM. When the temp gets just above 50, the
car settles down to its idle, at abount 500RPM. But then it dies.
I drove it around the block and it died going down the hil, as I
took my foot off the accelerator. I got it restarted and got it
home by keeping the gas on. Once in the garageI blocked the
accelerator, so that the engine stayed at 1000RPM. I could not
get the temp up to 90, but when it got to about 75, I took the
block of the accelerator and it idled down just fine. It ran for
about five minutes that way, stumbling a bit – but it always
did. I finally turned it off, wondering what causes the problem
in the warm, not hot, not cool range.

While it ran, I put my head in the trunck to listen to the fule
stuff: There is a steady buzz, and a not-so-steady ca-wish, or
something like that. I assume the buzz it the fuel pump? I
assume the stumbling ca wish, or gurgle, is the return valve,
accepting the overrun gas from the rail? Or is the stumbling
gurgle a sound like a bad fule pump?

My mechanic suggested that i first change the fuel filters, and I
will do that this week. But it is hard to accept the idea that
it might be fule related when it starts every time, even when
warm, and that it seems to run well when hot.

Any suggestions for leads will be greatly appreciated.

Bob Sack
1985 XJ6
1959 XK 150

Robert J. Sack
phone 804 924 4814
fax 804 924 4859

500 RPM is too slow for the idle speed, assuming you mean this is the
idle speed with air off & gearbox in neurtral. Under these conditions
the idle speed should be right around 800 RPM. With mine set like this,
it idles around 600 RPM with air on and in gear. Try turning the idle
set screw to speed up your idle a bit and see if this helps.

Steve Coleman, Gadsden, AL
1987 XJ6 x2

From: Lenny Seidman lseidman@erols.com
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 1996 17:21:33 +0000
Subject: Parting out Jaguar MkII Saloon

I am parting out a 1961 Jaguar Mk2, 3.8 engine, 4-speed transmission,
automobile. Many good parts, reasonable. contact me by phone

-215-572-7626 or by e mail- lseidman@erols.com

Lenny Seidman
Elkins Park, Pennsylvania, USA
email: lseidman@erols.com

From: Lenny Seidman lseidman@erols.com
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 1996 17:24:27 +0000
Subject: Parts Wanted-Jag MKII saloon

Need the following parts for my 65 Jaguar MkII Saloon:

- Screw top lid assembly w/ rubber flap (and motor?) for large square
  glass windshield washer fluid resevoir
- ```
  Jack handle( it rachets)
```

Looking to purchase or can trade other parts.
Contact by email below

Lenny Seidman
Elkins Park, Pennsylvania, USA
email: lseidman@erols.com

From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 1996 18:37:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Request for information: SS100

 A friend of mine who lives in upstate New York has told me about a

potential dream come true. A neighbor (and car collector) of his died
several years ago. His wife is now getting ready to sell off his stuff.
Among his collection is a car which my friend believes is an authentic
SS100, disassembled, in the process of a frame-off rebuild. I hope to get to
see it in the next few weeks. Can anyone help me with specific tips? What
are the strengths and weak points of this car? What is the present market
value? Any info would help.

Michael Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2

From: “Robert Johnson, D.Sc.” bjomejag@sover.net
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 1996 19:33:01 -0500
Subject: Re: oil pressure

DHarr13177@aol.com wrote:

Why did the oil pressure at cruise on my 66 E type go up 5 psi when I put
more oil in ? : 10 qts instead of 9. ( 8.5 liters - 9 US qts is specified for
oil fill ) 11 qts is necessary to fill to the top dipstick mark . The oil
pump pickup should be covered either way. Motor recently rebuilt.

Doug
Possibly a small air leak at the upper O-ring of the oil pick up tube.
More oil means less head for the pump, resulting in less entraped air
and higher pressure. What are the pressures, and under what
conditions?

Bob Johnson
Brattleboro, Vt.
S2 E Type, Mk 10

From: gunnar@medial.se (Gunnar Forsgren)
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 1996 23:47:27 GMT
Subject: Behind the wheel of the XK-8 cabriolet

Well, the engine was off…

The XK-8 was shown in Stockholm today.
I sat down briefly behind the wheel of a fine BRG cabriolet.
A very handsome vehicle indeed which I can imagine
would fit me nicely.
The front looked much better in real life than from pictures,
especially the two bumpers in the cat’s mouth looked really Ok now.
They are not made of black rubber.

The Jag people have created something to be proud of, a worthy
successor in style of the XK-E. The Cabriolet is definitely
my favourite with its beautiful roadster body design.
The show car cabriolet had the fine 18" sport wheels.
Minor remark from me is that I find the instruments too
small and recessed, I want XJ6 S1 dials and a Nardi wheel
Too tall owners will not fit into either coupe or cabriolet with
roof on.

It’s time to begin saving up. A reasonably equipped cabriolet
costs 750 000 Skr (Swedish Crowns).

/gunnar XJ6 4.2 S1 '72 (now parked behind garage) Sweden

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 1996 18:16:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Most Beautiful! XJ40 vs SIII (the reality)

Now for the worst boot, backend it would have to be the DB18 Daimler or
was it the XJS?

I cant agree. I once owned a 1948 DB18 (about 20 years ago) and I loved the
car. The leather seats were ALL leather, the windshield that opened for
fresh air, that wierd but neat semi-automatic transmission, the jacks built
in at each corner, the automatic chassis oiler, and all those other neat
gadgets that even the newest cars don’t have. I purchased it in Bude for
175 pounds, toured England in it, shipped it to the states for 150 pounds,
and then lost my mind and sold it for a paultry $2500.

It was a beautiful car, the best engineering I have ever seen.

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: cobac@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 1996 18:13:30 -0700
Subject: Jaguar Sheepskin Covers

Hi all!,
Does anyone out there have the “Jaguar Factory Accessory” Sheepskin
seat covers installed on their car?
I was interested to buy these from the dealer for the approaching cold
weather, and wanted to know how the look in the car (proper fit), and are
they very good quality and soft?
Any idea on a cost for a pair?
I have an 89 VDP, and was wondering how they would look with the rear
lamps and tables, and which color to go with: Sand, or Creme. I have the
light(biscuit?) colour (trim: AEE).

Thanks for any input you can offer!
Eric
cobac@ix.netcom.com

From: jaguar@gate.net
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 1996 21:27:15 -0400
Subject: XK-8s at Sebring

Last Tuesday, October 1st, Jaguar sponsored a publicity event at Sebring
International Race Track with journalists from several different magazines in
attendence. Jaguar also invited some local Jaguar club members and competition
drivers to test drive the XK-8 on the race track.

Jaguar rented Sebring race track and brought five XK-8’s for test driving, three
coupes and two roadsters. They allowed us to run as many individual hot laps as
we wanted with the only requirements that we wear a helmet and seatbelts and
that we make a quick stop in the pits each lap. Were drove the 12 Hour track,
the long track, and there were no restrictions as to how fast we drove or how
hard we pushed the cars.

I was fortunate in that I was able to attend this event with my fellow team
members from Predator Racing, Larry and Debbie Ligas, Ron Evans and Ted Brettner
as well as Tom Palisi the southeast region director of the JCNA, David Hinton of
Twin Cams from Sarasota and Tom Curren of Curren Motorsports from Orlando.

Bob Tullius was Jaguar’s feature guest. He gave rides in his XJR-5. He also has
a hanger at Sebring where he keeps his aircraft colleciton, a P-51 Mustang, T-28
Trojan, PT-19 Stearman, Ryan PT-22 and a Waco by-plane. Mr. Tullis plans to move
his race car collection to his hanger starting with the XJR-5.

Robert E. Berry also made an appearance. He was a Jaguar factory test driver in
the mid 1950’s when the D-Type was in development and he also raced his own
D-Type.

The following race cars were brought to the event:

Larry Ligas and Ron Evans - Predator Performance Racing - Series I 	
E-Type coupe.
Tom Palisi - XK-120 roadster.
David Hinton - Leaping Cats Racing - XK-120 coupe and Tom Veals XK-120 	
roadster.
Tom Curren - Curren Motorsports - XK-120 roadster.
Walter Hill - D-Type.
Bob Tullius - XJR-5.

Our day started with a breakfast meeting where the Jaguar representatives
arrived with the journalists in the XK-8’s. We then went staight to the track
and started driving. For the rest of the morning and most of the afternoon we
drove XK-8’s and race cars around the track.

After driving both XK-8 roadsters several laps, Tom Veals XK-120 and Predators
E-Type race car I made the following observations about the XK-8.

The XK-8 has very good acceleration for a luxary road car. When following a race
prepared 120, the 120 was able to pull away very slowly on long straights but
the XK-8’s handeling was far superior to the 120’s in the turns. The XK-8 has
excellent brakes and performed in braking on the track almost as well as a
race prepared XKE weighing over 1000 lbs less. Keep in mind that we were running
individual laps, giving the brakes a little time to cool down…

While on the heavy side, the XK-8 handled very well, it was well balanced and
reacted smoothly and quickly to stearing input, even in a four wheel drift or
snaking turns.The XK-8 transitioned fairly smothly when changing direction in
curves without unmanagable body roll. After most turns, with traction control,
the XK-8 was able to accelerate out of a turn while taking advantage of the
engines power band.

The XK-8 was very confortable and visiability was excellent. I drove the
convertables with the top down and the ride was so smooth and the car so quiet
that it was hard to tell when the engine was peaking out without looking at the
tachometer. All that could be heard on the track was a heavily muffled purr from
the engine, wind blowing past and tires squealing on the turns. Braking was
usually quiet because of the antilock brake system.

The XK-8 was great fun to drive and I would like to purchase a used one in a few
years when the price comes down.

I heard a rumor of a supercharged XK-8 and I have little doubt that an XK-8 will
be modified for racing and in competition in the next year or two.

Doug Bohannon
jaguar@gate.net
Sun Coast Jaguar Club
(941) 967-7899

From: “George W. Cohn” gwcohn@azstarnet.com
Date: Sun, 06 Oct 1996 20:08:09 -0700
Subject: Re:RF Modulation CD Player units

Steve Averill mentioned that his XJ6C came with an original British
Leyland 8 track tape player.

While rummaging through some boxes in my shop the other day while looking
for some rubber parts for my E, I came across a box of 8 track tapes and
the player that I originally had in my Datsun 240-Z. My wife asked me
jokingly if I was going to install it in the XK-E.

Hmm…it would be a period accessory. Now lets see, if I can just mount
it beside the Radio Shack CB radio. “Breaker one-nine, this is the big
Cat heading down the superslab, gimme a smokey report, ten four!”

(Last comment void in countries that don’t understand American trucker
slang.)

From: WEZA65A@prodigy.com (MR MICHAEL D FATSI)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 00:32:49, -0500
Subject: Speedo Recalibration

If one is searching for a professional speedo recalibration then I
would have to recommend Nissonger’s in Mamaroneck, NY. When I need
the speedo on my TR-6 recalibrated after I installed an overdrive
unit (with different speedo drive gearing) I sent my speedo to them
via UPS and they did a very nice job, for the cost of a recalibration
they also virtually restored my speedo to “like new” Nissonger’s tell.
is 914/381-1952.

While I am at it I must say that the XK-8 is a stunner, Jaguar pulled
of a styling coup with this one. While true, it is not a S1 E-Type
(and I don’t think that this design will make it to MOMA), it is
still a wonderful achievement for the marque, I hope sales are strong
for many years. My only gripe, and this is a big enough gripe to
keep me from buying one is that this car does not have a manual gear
box. It is screaming for a manual shifter. I don’t care what Ford, or
Jag. research says this car is not a Taurus SHO, or even a XJ-S. If
this automobile claims to be the serious sports or even GT car that
its looks and other equipment suggest then a manual box must be made
available.

Jaguars are enthusiast cars built for and bought buy enthusiasts this
should not be forgotte. Offering this car without a manual box seems
to say to the core of Jaguar’s enthusiast customer base that since we
think you only make up 2% of our target we don’t think that you are
woth it. I am sure that I am not alone when I say that the lack of a
manual gearbox will keep me from purchasing one, and I would consider
myself to be a charter member of this cars target market. If a decent
manual box were available and,as marketing researchers claimed, only
2% of the XK-8’s sales were manual I, for one would be very surprised.
What do other contributors here think?

M.Fatsi
XJ-6
TR-6
a couple of French Cars which shall remain nameless.

From: Joe Average joeavg@netten.net
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 01:29:50 -0500
Subject: scary Jaguar problem

Hi, today I had a rather unsettling experience with my 1984 XJ-6. After a
lengthy period of inactivity, I got the car running a week ago. A few days
ago I filled both tanks, but did little driving after that.
This afternoon, as I headed down to the grocery store, I noticed a strong
whiff of gasoline after driving a block or so. Then I noticed what appeared
to be a tiny trail of liquid in my wake.
I turned and headed home and after stopping the car. I could see gasoline
brimming out the top of the passenger side gas tank. After releasing the
tank lid, at least two quarts of gasoline came pouring out the top. I
looked underneath the auto to see if there was anything amiss with the tank
itself, but didn’t see anything that looked out of place. Earlier though, I
thought I heard an odd ‘clunk’ coming from what sounded like the trunk. The
only problem is, my trunk is empty.
Has anyone else ever experienced this problem? Could it be that filling
that tank to the brim was a mistake? (not likely, right?). I would
appreciate any suggestions list inhabitants might have. Near as I can tell,
there is no such problem with the left side gas tank…but then again,
it’s only half full.

Finally, this Jag has been sitting for a verry long time: it’s probably
been driven less than 200 miles over the past three years. It has been
sitting in my driveway, unfortunately. I plan on trying to get this machine
in ship shape if it is economically feasible. What problems should I expect
to see in a machine that has been sitting for this long?

Thanks for any and all suggestions,

Joe Average (a true Jaguar dummy)

From: “John Littler” auibmdak@ibmmail.com
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 02:34:53 EDT
Subject: Dealer listing

I’ve been watching the debate on the dealer listing web page and so far
no-one has put their hand up to actually do it. I’ll volunteer provided
we can sort out the format and the libel conundrum. I’m in Australia
where I believe our libel laws aren’t quite as vicious as the US but I’ll
need some info on that before we can set it up. Do we have any Australian
lawyers on the list ? If so could you please fill me in (by private email
) on what is OK and what’s not. I also need to know the international
perspective - if I publish something that’s OK here but not OK in Europe
or US can I be sued ?
I don’t mind copping the extra charge of moving to an ISP that will allow
me to publish a web page but I’m not keen on paying several hundred
dollars to get the legal advice.
John

Level 1, 29-57 Christie St.
St Leonards NSW 2065
Ph: +61-2-9937-8063 Fax: +61-2-9937-8100
Mobile +61-419-617-619

From: “Arnold, Dave Dr.” davearno@sandton.senchem.co.za
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 96 09:02:00 PDT
Subject: S type questions

It had to happen. On Friday I looked at a 1967 S type for sale from a
deceased estate. To me, this is the most beautiful car ever made, and
this example is near perfect. Been used very little, 84000 miles
genuine, perfect chrome, no rust, perfect original paintwork, perfect
interior leather, woodwork 99% OK. Runs very well. Even the toolkit is
complete, down to the spare spark plug in its original wrapping. One
problem, looks like the oil pressure guage doesn’t work. Ran the engine
for 30 mins, and drove for 5 miles, with no noises that might indicate
low pressure. Is this likely to be a gauge problem, or likely to be more
serious?
Is the asking price of $ 3000 in the right range?
Dave.
47 Mk IV
80 XJ6 II
67 S type (maybe)

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 14:50:48 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: V12 exhaust system

I would like to increase the life of my mufflers and I heard one should
drill a little hole into them, so water can drain out avoiding builing up
of rust. Does anyone have experience with this and if so, where should
the hole be loclated

Thanks in advance

- Matthias

From: Andy.Reynolds@lifesciences.com
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 16:16:22 +0200
Subject: XJ6 Series III Door Disassembly

I am currently working on removing some surface rust on the driver’s door
of my 1985 XJ6 Sovereign.

I have just removed the external chrome strip at the base of the glass.

(This is held on with 5 (rusted) screws inside the door skin, accessible
by removing the weather strip plus the full door trim. There s a sixth scre=
w
at the front - remove the inner and outer triangle shapes and mastic …)

Now to the easy bit - the door mirror …

Unfortunately, the (large, easily accessible, externally rust-free)
screws which hold the mirror on have siezed within their bushes.

The bushes simply turn with the screw.

Anyone got any ideas (eg swap their XK8 for a car
with real character).

Andy Reynolds Andy.Reynolds@lifesciences.com
XJ6 SIII 1985
Engineering Manager
Denley Instruments
UK +44 1403 783441 Ext. 262

From: Robert_Abascal@ccmail.orl.mmc.com
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 09:02 -0500 (EST)
Subject: XK-8 (little jag content)

 When I went to view the XK-8 I noticed some other marques while 
 driving through the lot.
 The local Jaguar dealer also sells Rolls and Bentley (spelling?).  
 IMHO, Mother Teresa sitting next to a Bentley would look like Christie 
 Brinkley.  A Checker cab looks more appealing. Talk about ugly cars!  
 That car was U-G-H-A-L-E-E!!!
 I believe it also cost a pretty penny too. ;<) <- turned up nose.
 
 Robert Abascal '63 XKE OTS (almost running) & '66 XKE Coupe

From: “Felts, Thomas L.” Thomas.Felts@alcoa.com
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 09:33:54 -0400
Subject: Wrinkled Wing

Not my day—week–year!

Drove my 3000 to Waynesboro,Va for their British Car Weekend. Great
event!

Left the E-Type at home.

Wife decided to go for a spin.

While backing out of the garage, scraped the right front fender an
adjacent car!!! What the heck, it’s only a car----right?
Tom

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 09:37:55 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: XJS timming chain tensioner plug

Jim: It would be easier to install one of those rubber expandable freeze
plugs that you can get from NAPA, then to go to all the trouable you
would go to .
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212 USA 803 798 3044On
Sun, 6 Oct 1996, James A. Isbell wrote:

I got it out!

The method is to drill a hole in the center of the plug with a small drill.
Large enough to push a nail through. Then get a long nail (3") and bend the
end (1/3") into almost a hook, about 80 degrees of bend.

Push the end of the nail into the hole and rotate it till it can be used to
pull on the plug. Now pull out pieces of the center of the plug untill
there is a fairly large hole in it. This releases some of the tension that
holds the sides of the plug outwards. As the hole gets bigger you can bend
the nail into a real hook to make sure any pieces fall outside rather than
inside. Now use a flat bladed screwdriver to pry the thing out.

Strangely, it is the outside of the plug that hardens and the interior parts
are realatively soft yet whhich leads me to believe that it is under hood
temps, not engine temps that harden the plug.

I am thinking of removing the plug and cutting the interior tabs off of it
then it would pull out readily. To hold it against any positive crankcase
pressure I will build a small bracket that will press very lightly on the
top of the plug and be held into position by a bolt on the water pump.

Kirby, add this to your book!

–
Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #409

Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4)
id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Mon, 7 Oct 1996 19:41:52 +0200 (MET DST)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 19:41:52 +0200 (MET DST)
Message-Id: 199610071741.TAA03271@ekeberg.sn.no
X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f
From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #410
Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Precedence: bulk
X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest

jag-lovers-digest Monday, 7 October 1996 Volume 02 : Number 410

Re: scary Jaguar problem
Re: S type questions
Re: Beer and Jaguars
ain’t broke, don’t, etc.
Re: Parts for sale list on the web and Dealer comments
XJ-S Drivers Window not going all the way up possible answer
Re: XJ40 vs. SIII and beer
Re: Beer and Jaguars
Re[2]: Parts for sale list on the web and Dealer comments
Re: RF Modulation CD Player units
Re: Little things not in the book (XJS V-12)
Re: XJ40 vs. SIII and beer
I Need a part
Re: XJS V12 radiator flush
Raffle
XK’s Open House (long)

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 09:43:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: scary Jaguar problem

Joe: Your return valve is stuck, allowing fuel to return to the worng
tank, it is suppose to return to the tank being used at the time.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212 USA 803 798 3044On
Mon, 7 Oct 1996, Joe Average wrote:

Hi, today I had a rather unsettling experience with my 1984 XJ-6. After a
lengthy period of inactivity, I got the car running a week ago. A few days
ago I filled both tanks, but did little driving after that.
This afternoon, as I headed down to the grocery store, I noticed a strong
whiff of gasoline after driving a block or so. Then I noticed what appeared
to be a tiny trail of liquid in my wake.
I turned and headed home and after stopping the car. I could see gasoline
brimming out the top of the passenger side gas tank. After releasing the
tank lid, at least two quarts of gasoline came pouring out the top. I
looked underneath the auto to see if there was anything amiss with the tank
itself, but didn’t see anything that looked out of place. Earlier though, I
thought I heard an odd ‘clunk’ coming from what sounded like the trunk. The
only problem is, my trunk is empty.
Has anyone else ever experienced this problem? Could it be that filling
that tank to the brim was a mistake? (not likely, right?). I would
appreciate any suggestions list inhabitants might have. Near as I can tell,
there is no such problem with the left side gas tank…but then again,
it’s only half full.

Finally, this Jag has been sitting for a verry long time: it’s probably
been driven less than 200 miles over the past three years. It has been
sitting in my driveway, unfortunately. I plan on trying to get this machine
in ship shape if it is economically feasible. What problems should I expect
to see in a machine that has been sitting for this long?

Thanks for any and all suggestions,

Joe Average (a true Jaguar dummy)

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 09:45:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: S type questions

Dave: Price real right, replace the oil presssure guage sender, price
around $ 55-65
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212 USA 803 798 3044On
Mon, 7 Oct 1996, Arnold, Dave Dr. wrote:

It had to happen. On Friday I looked at a 1967 S type for sale from a
deceased estate. To me, this is the most beautiful car ever made, and
this example is near perfect. Been used very little, 84000 miles
genuine, perfect chrome, no rust, perfect original paintwork, perfect
interior leather, woodwork 99% OK. Runs very well. Even the toolkit is
complete, down to the spare spark plug in its original wrapping. One
problem, looks like the oil pressure guage doesn’t work. Ran the engine
for 30 mins, and drove for 5 miles, with no noises that might indicate
low pressure. Is this likely to be a gauge problem, or likely to be more
serious?
Is the asking price of $ 3000 in the right range?
Dave.
47 Mk IV
80 XJ6 II
67 S type (maybe)

From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 08:43:17 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Re: Beer and Jaguars

Out of the bleu, Jim whines…
{I personaly think there is no such thing as a Good beer.

I feel very sorry for you. I will nominate you to have your
picture next to the entry for for the word “Deprived” in the
next Websters dictionary. Next time you come thru Boulder, I
will do my best correct this unfortunate delusion of yours.

{I have never seen what one can see in something that tastes like it has
{already been drunk by another person.

I’m afraid I’m unqualified to debate this comparison since I’ve
made it a firm policy of mine not to imbibe any post-processed
fluids.

{I find Burbon and good wine to be very tasty, but beer is bitter and salty.

Two out of three ain’t bad. But, this is not the place for me
to ramble on about the wonders of microbrews.

Ob.jaguar.content

Had a friend make a barn find last week. A 1952 XK120 coupe which
had been sitting in a barn since 1970. $5500 from two old gents
who were straight out of the Muppet Show (“Shut up, you old poop!”)
It’s gonna be alot of work to get perfect, but it’s all there and
hasn’t been mucked with. They’re still out there…

/\ Lawrence Buja http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern/
_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
________________Boulder,Colorado___80307-3000

From: ROLindsay@aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 10:54:42 -0400
Subject: ain’t broke, don’t, etc.

The “…if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!” quote is from the industrial
age. In the information age the quote is, “…if it works it’s obsolete!”
Never is that so true as in technical/research software. We write
“throw-away” code all the time. Management hates it! “Current”
today means out on the ragged edge. Another phrase I like is
used to refer to technology that has just passed through it’s high
dollar phase heading for the practical phase. That is, “State of the
Shelf”.

Anyway, the XK8 is really incredible. But what is the XJ-S going
to turn in to? I have been out of the loop for a while – laying under
my '66 S-type…

Regards Gang,

Rick

From: “Kirbert” palmk%gcn.scri.fsu.edu@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 03:51:26 -0005
Subject: Re: Parts for sale list on the web and Dealer comments

Well, I can finally disagree with Kirby;

----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Nah, a better plan is to post all businesses we know exist. If we
cannot say anything bad due to liability issues, say nothing at all,
but list them anyway. Remember what I originally proposed: the list
… deletionws…

I see no reason to post businesses if we are not able to warn our
users/netfolks about dealers/businesses that are unethical and/or
dishonest. To me, one of the main reasons is to help find a reasonable,
honest dealer/supplier when I am broken down in HoeDunk Nebraska. (No
offence to HoeDunk residents)

LLoyd

From: “Himes,John W.” jwh@mime.dw.lucent.com
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 96 08:55:00 PDT
Subject: XJ-S Drivers Window not going all the way up possible answer

I forgot who asked ( read too many digests this morning ) about possible
fixes to the drivers window not going all the way up without using their
hand. On my 88 XJ-S, the problems was that one of the screws was removed by
a PO, or had fallen out over time that mounts the window motor to the door &
the others had become loose. The motor assy. would move when you raised or
lowered the window, after tightening the screws & new lock washers, ( with
the window all the way up so it would fit correctly )the window now goes all
the way up & I no longer have the fingerprints on the window ( Inside anyway
).

John Himes
88 XJ-S 98K Miles
( should hit 100K before Christmas )

From: Robert Bradley Robert.Bradley%bh.eyi.com@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 1996 04:01:53 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ40 vs. SIII and beer

Robert, this is a good point, if I understand what you are saying, BUT you
can never really BUY beer. The most you can do is rent it for a while.

----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Lets just say that Jaguars are a bit like beers. There is no such thing as a
bad beer, just good beer and better beers. Some are nice when fresh, others
age well. Only time will tell.

LLoyd

From: Michael Powers/TEIR/Thomson Michael_Powers@teir.com
Date: 7 Oct 96 10:56:42
Subject: Re: Beer and Jaguars

Uh oh, I sense a “Beer vs Burbon” thread starting up!!!

-Mike
“I never met a beer I didn’t like”*

*except Moosehead - It is truly foul…

JISBELLJR @ mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)

10/05/96 02:10 PM
To: jag-lovers @ sn.no @ Internet
cc:
Subject: Beer and Jaguars

I personaly think there is no such thing as a Good beer. I have never seen
what one can see in something that tastes like it has already been drunk by
another person.

I find Burbon and good wine to be very tasty, but beer is bitter and salty.

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: “KENNETH M GILSON” kgilson@ccmail.unl.edu
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 96 10:31:48 CST
Subject: Re[2]: Parts for sale list on the web and Dealer comments

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Parts for sale list on the web and Dealer comments
Author: LLoyd 3030P@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil at INTERNET
Date: 10/7/96 7:56 AM

Message was resent – Original recipients were:
To:
jag-lovers@sn.no----------------------------------------------------------------

;Hey thar out thar
LLoyd, we’uns out hyar in Nebraskeeee have balin wirr for thos brok’n down
kats. We’uns even know how to string a kat.:))
Be nice to us out hyar u’all mite jus brake down on ure way thru.
Anyway if you do good luck on finding a part. ;-)) (No off-fence taken.)

Kenny Gilson
'64 OTS

honest dealer/supplier when I am broken down in HoeDunk Nebraska. (No
offence to HoeDunk residents)

LLoyd

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 11:52:07 -0005
Subject: Re: RF Modulation CD Player units

Just a side note: Have you guys noticed that portable CD players are
now available for under $200 that come with 10-second buffers and a
kit to connect to a car stereo? Just plug in, set on the seat,
console, floor or in the glovebox.

Unfortunately, none of them’ll work with the 8 Track player in my XJ6C like
a trunk CD changer would. We got a portable player (Sony) for my wife’s
minivan that works pretty well. Sound from the lousy British Leyland 8
Track wouldn’t suffer much in any event from something coming in over the
FM band.

I dunno how many others misunderstood this message thanks to my not
altering the subject from a PREVIOUS message, so I will clarify: if
somebody GAVE me a unit that played through an FM radio by
modulating the signal, I would happily throw it as far as I could!
Why would ANYBODY consider such crap? I believe the portable CD
players I mentioned – as an alternative to the expensive wired-in
boot-mounted changers – connect via the preamp-in connections
available on most modern systems.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 11:52:09 -0005
Subject: Re: Little things not in the book (XJS V-12)

Jim Isbell, regarding removal of the tensioner access cover:

Kirby, If I get an answer to this it needs to be in your book!

Chad Bolles’ description is correct, and the book has been revised

– look for the next posting.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: zavadsky@austin.ibm.com (Vlad Zavadsky)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 11:20:06 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ40 vs. SIII and beer

Robert Bradley wrote:

Lets just say that Jaguars are a bit like beers. There is no such thing as a
bad beer, just good beer and better beers.

I disagree! Obviously you never tried BUD LIGHT!

Vlad

From: LLoyd 3030P@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 96 09:18:20 PDT
Subject: I Need a part

Sorry to clutter the list with this, but thought I’ld come here first.
I need a vaccuum advance for the distributer of a '71 4.2 “E” type. Anyone
got one or a lead? I know we got a couple of parts guys on the list.

               3030P@VM1.CC.NPS.NAVY.MIL
           LLoyd Nolan    Monterey, Ca. USA
     '71 E-Type OTS, "PrtyKty"  It needs some assembly.

'69 black 280sl, “Darth Vader” Just when you think all is lost,
it saves you.
In search of a Mk II or 3.8s

From: Patrick Siu patrick@idacom.hp.com
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 10:47:07 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Re: XJS V12 radiator flush

Hi everyone,

Thanks for the help from Stefan, Jan, Mike, John and Gregory … I did
the radiator flush last weekend.

As many of you suggested, removing the bottom radiator hose from the
radiator ends work the best. Basically, I drained the old anti-freeze,
rinsed it a couple times. Refilled with a can of radiator flush and
fresh water, took the car for a cruise. Drained and rinsed a few times.
Refilled it with 50/50 mix anti-freeze and relaxed.

One point may be useful to add to Kirby’s help book (as Kirby suggested)
is to include when Jaguar remove the “remote control radiator drain plug”.
This plug is definitely not exist in my car. Does anyone know when the
change happened?

Thanks again for everyone’s help.

Patrick Siu
89 XJS V12 Conv

From: Jo-Ann Gross gross@TCNJ.EDU
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 13:30:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Raffle

A few weeks ago there was a post about an XK8 raffle.
I’ve lost the specifics and was wondering if anybody could steer me to it.

Jo-Ann Gross

From: Ryan Border rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 10:39:14 -0700
Subject: XK’s Open House (long)

This weekend, was an open house and road rally sponsored by XK’s Unlimited
in San Luis Obispo (about 200mi from my house). Having, just a week ago,
resolved my rear axle groan (loose brake caliper bolt), I decided that my
modified '59 MK1 was ready, and with some very last minute planning my
wife Joan and I arranged to make the trip.

One of the highlights of the whole weekend came early Saturday morning
as we were driving down to Morgan Hill, where the local Jag club was
gathering for a convoy down to the meet. We were cruising sedately along
when to my left I saw the unmistakeable nose of a Britsh racing green S1
E-type. It turned out to be fellow club member George Barry, donning leather
aviators helmet and goggles, in his roadster. Right behind him was another
member Dave Ferguson, in another (white, with helmet to match) S1 roadster.
They asked for directions to the meeting place before speeding ahead. After
hesitating for a short while, I yielded to temptation and gave chase. To
close the gap which had opened, I just opened my car up and watched what
it would do. I backed off as the tach needle swept past 4500rpm- at which
time the car was still pulling like a train. We had closed the gap with the
E’s and spent the next few miles watching the two cars in front of us toy
with eachother, darting around the sparse early mornign traffic; the low
morning sun glistening off the polished fenders. It just formed one of those
mental postcards that will stay with me for a very long time.

At breakfast, Joan scolded me for going too fast- noting that our indicated
speed had reached 155kph (I had been watching the tach, not the speedo),
which translated to almost 100mph. I re-assured her that our speedometer
wasn’t accurate since I had smaller tires on the car than stock and we
probably hadn’t exceeded 90 mph or so. Still, I was quite pleased that my
car was still accellerating with such vigor at that speed…

Despite the early morning excitement, my intention was to take it easy with
the car, and I dropped off the back of the convoy. At engine speeds over
3400rpm or so, my fan belt was slipping and so the easiest fix was just not
to go that fast. We weren’t in any hurry, and just enjoyed the drive.
We arrived shortly before noon, in time for lunch, and seemingly just as
things were really getting started. Saturday was a drive-in car show for
the older cars; with peoples choice balloting. XK’s was also having
a %20 off sale, and I took the opportunity to buy a “flex-fan” conversion
kit, thinking that this should improve my cooling and help solve my slipping
fan-belt problem. Unfortunately, the weather didn’t co-operate, providing
what must have been 100 degree heat. It was especially unbearable on the
black-top where the cars were being shown. Most people spent the day huddled
in the shade. We spent the late afternoon shopping in San Luis Obispo, and
spent the evening in (much cooler, since it’s on the coast) Morro Bay where
I had arranged to stay at a small bed-and-breakfast.

Sunday was a road rally. I had no idea what the format was going to be,
and decided that it might be a good idea to try and get a callibration
for my speedometer (so we could judge both speed and distance). So,
as we drove back into San Luis Obispo, we used the mile markers (over
multiple miles, and over several intervals) to find the conversion factor
between our indicated km, and actual miles. It turned out to be a very
nice, even, 7:5 => 1.4: “1.4?, How can that be right? I’ve got smaller
tires than stock, and the real number is ~1.6”. Then I remembered that I’ve
also replaced my rear axle with one out of an automatic MK1. We checked
again over another interval: 1.4. I was jolted with a smack on the
shoulder when Joan realized what the implication was to the previous
days adventures (110mph).

It turns out that we didn’t really need the speedometer anyway. Rather
than a navigational challenge, the road rally was more of a scavenger
hunt. Over some 100mi of country road we were given ~50 questions
to answer. Things like “what’s salty?” (we drive by the Salty Pelican
Restaurant"), and “Who will be shot on site?” (there’s a sign indicating
that arsonists and vandals will receive this fate, posted at a
junkyard). The route travelled through San Luis Obispo, Morro Bay, Pismo
Beach, and surrounding areas- with some really beautiful back country
roads, taking about 2.5 hours to complete the route. At the conclusion
of the rally, XK’s Unlimited’s owner hosted a very nice lunch, with
champaign, and a small band at his ranch house.

Rally scores were combined with peoples choice voting from the day before-
for a total weekend score. Somehow I took home a 2nd place trophy and a
$50 gift certificate! The deck was somwhat stacked in my favor: there were
a lot more E-types to split the votes up in their category than in my early
sedan class… but I’ll still take it :-). Joan and I only missed 4
questions on the rally- and I still contend that it was a tomato! So,
adding up, that now brings the total number of trophy’s I’ve won with
my car up to… 1!

Of course, no Jaguar adventure would be complete without some mechanical
excitement, and sure enough, we had troubles about 100mi from home. While
accellerating to pass a slower car, I felt the jag loose power… and
then sort of sputter and surge again. At first I thought maybe just a bit
of crud went through one of the carbs, but then there was a severe power
loss. The car would barely maintain ~45mph. We pulled off at the next
exit; where I quickly decided this had to be one of 3 things: fuel, ignition,
or something serious. Temperature was fine, oil pressure was fine, it
wasn’t smoking, and it sounded fine… so I ruled out something serious
pretty quickly. It revved fine, and would pull ok in 3rd gear; sort of
ruling out ignition problems; which left fuel delivery as the culprit.
After a little slow speed driving, it seemed OK… and so we ventured back
onto the highway, where it was fine for a while; but the first time we
went past ~3200rpm in 4th it sputtered, almost died, and we were barely
able to make it to the next exit- where at least there was a service station.

Fuel system fire drill:

Does it have gas? Yes, gauge indicated about 1/2 a tank.
Is pickup clogged? ← Actually I’m still guessing this was the problem.
Let car sit for a while, fill up the tank to ‘stir things up’.
Bad gas? If so, new fuel should help. Dumped in a bottle of STP just
for good measure.
Fuel pump working? Sounded OK, fuel filter was full. Turned up the
pressure on my regulator a notch just for good measure.
Blockage in line? There was quite a bit of crud in the filter (rust
particles). Spent about 30mins extracting, cleaning, and re-
installing the filter.
Junk in carb? Maybe… STP might help.

After doing all that, we rolled on without further problems. I took it easy
with the car, focusing on getting it home… A test just a couple of miles
from home showed the car would pull strong, in 4th, well past the point
where the earlier problems occured. So maybe it’s fixed. When this tank
gets close to empty, I’ll probably drain the tank and check the pickup
though.

This little delay cost us ~40mins; and also put us behind a 4 car pile-up
costing us another hour in stop and go traffic. So, it was almost a 5
hour drive home. This after a 2.5 hour rally. Boy were we tired.

But what a great weekend!
===== __ ============================================================== |> ===
/_\ Ryan Border o~_ o~_ | *
/ / / Hewlett Packard Company, Inc. >/-.>/’ /o| *
/ / / _______ Software Design Engineer ( )-–(*)-( )’ *
/ / //_____\ email: rborder@cup.hp.com or border@best.com *
/ / __ / / __ / 19111 Pruneridge Ave. mailstop 42LX, Cupertino, CA 95014 *
/ / / / / / // / (408) 447-2496 FAX: (408) 447-0641 *
//// / _____/ WWW: BestWeb.com - Lease or Buy Domain Names - Best Web Limited *
===== / / / ==================================================================
//

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #410

Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4)
id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Tue, 8 Oct 1996 01:55:54 +0200 (MET DST)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 01:55:54 +0200 (MET DST)
Message-Id: 199610072355.BAA10788@ekeberg.sn.no
X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f
From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #411
Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Precedence: bulk
X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest

jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 8 October 1996 Volume 02 : Number 411

Re: S type questions
Re: XJS V12 radiator flush
For Texans only…
Re: Beer & Jaguars (some Jag content)
Re: Beer & Jaguars
Re: Re[2]: XK-8 versus Aston-Martin
Re: Parts for sale list on the web and Dealer comments
XJ220 drivetrain details?
Thar She Blows!
Body number? Vehicle Number?
Re: XJ6 Series III Door Disassembly
XJ40 Oil leak
Re: XJS V12 radiator flush
Re: Wrinkled Wing
FW: XJ40 v’s SIII
Fuel leak XJ6
Jag photos
Re: I Need a part
Re: Most Beautiful! XJ40 vs SIII (the reality)
Re: XK8

From: Jim Goring jgoring@ccnet.com
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 11:20:52 -0700
Subject: Re: S type questions

Arnold, Dave Dr. wrote:

Ran the engine

for 30 mins, and drove for 5 miles, with no noises that might indicate
low pressure. Is this likely to be a gauge problem, or likely to be more
serious?
Is the asking price of $ 3000 in the right range?
Dave.
47 Mk IV
80 XJ6 II
67 S type (maybe)

sounds like a winner to me. wanna trade it for my '65 Stype? you should take it
somewhere to check the tranny, compression, steering… the usual bits. And budget a
couple grand for fixing things you dont think are problems yet. Also, 84000 miles on an
unrebuilt XK engine is alot. If it really is original, it will need an overhaul soon,
and that will cost more than you are paying for the car.

go for it

Jim
'65 Stype… STILL garage queen

From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 14:51:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: XJS V12 radiator flush

is to include when Jaguar remove the “remote control radiator drain plug”.
This plug is definitely not exist in my car. Does anyone know when the
change happened?

Well, 87 has it and your 89 doesn’t. Anyone got an 88?

Thomas E. Alberts

From: Glue Man glueman@collano.ch
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 19:04:23 GMT
Subject: For Texans only…

I live in Switzerland and occasionally travel in the U.S., mainly in
connection with my business branch in California.

For the last weeks of this month my wife and I plan to travel around in
Texas, probably from Dallas west to San San Antonio and south to the Big
Bend National Park. No firm plans yet.

Any suggestion from friendly and sympathetic locals of what to do and to see
while driving around (unfortunately not in a classic, but in a dull rented
Sedan) is highly appreciated, especially (but not only) if car related.

Glue Man
glueman@collano.ch (former address: gleuma@dial.eunet.ch)

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 14:12:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Beer & Jaguars (some Jag content)

Now, now, Jim. You’ve been pontificating far and wide on a variety of
subjects. But, you’re getting out of your territory with your comments
about beer. You’re beginning to sound snobbish, just like the fellow you
took to task for sounding snobbish about internet access and such.

I am certianly not snobbish, its just that I have never tased a beer that
was NOT bitter.
If you can point me to a beer that is sweet or at least not bitter or salty
I will gladly try it.

When in England I drink Cider but that is as close as I will get to beer.
I have tried Shandy which is lemonade and beer half and half and it is
almost palatable.

Burbon is good BEFORE you start the Jag repairs, it fortifies you for the
job and thickens the blood so you lose less of it through the nuckles. Then
AFTER the repairs, while sitting in the hot tub thinking about the rally you
just won, wine is fine.

DURING the repairs I drink iced tea.

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 16:06:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Beer & Jaguars

In a message dated 96-10-07 15:19:24 EDT, JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim
Isbell) writes:

<< If you can point me to a beer that is sweet or at least not bitter or
salty
I will gladly try it…
…I have tried Shandy which is lemonade and beer half and half . >>

I’ve made beer, and as far as I know salt is never an ingredient. And,
Shandy is a ladies drink.

From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 16:17:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Re[2]: XK-8 versus Aston-Martin

On Oct 5, 1:45pm, Mike Cogswell wrote:

Subject: Re[2]: XK-8 versus Aston-Martin

If they aren’t planning on building any 5-speeds, and their volumes are
going be be about 2% of the XK-8 volume, then how do you explain A-M
spending the development money for a 5-speed?

I am not A-Ms’ accountant. If volume is only 2% of XK8 than I guess I can’t
explain the DB-7 period - just glad it got built I think you have to give
credit to Ford for that!

… why have the DB-7s I’ve
read about had manual transmissions? The R&T road test makes no mention of
an automatic even being available in the DB-7.

An R&T oversight? Yea, like that never happens. Try another magz.

I’m not surprised a Ford designer would prefer the XK-8 rear. Do your
desks also look like jellybeans?

Yes, I am as easy a target as the S3 E-type Ever see the Lincoln Sentinal
or GT-90 ???

It’s a beautiful car in many ways,
but I agree completely that virtually every styling change made from '61 to
'74 was a step away from the purity of the original design. (And I’ve
owned a '74 E-Type since it was new.) My point was clear. A big chunk of
the target audience spent most of their time looking at the E-Type instead
of the XK-8.

Yes, I admit, the S3 Etype is a beautiful car (am I back-pedaling?). I even

like the 2+2 in a strange sort of way - it has an elegant yet almost arrogant
look about it. The OTS has a windshield that still makes my jaw go slack - so
much plan-view(!) nicer than the S1&2 in that respect. I too would have been
looking at the E-type, but that would not mean that I was any less interested
in the XK8. Never the less, you were there, I was not. You saw the reaction of
the people, I didn’t. Still, I like the XK8 design, and I think (hope) many
others will too.
The boss had one in today, a blue convertible. It has some very nice subtle
surfaces in the rear quarters (fenders) that I never saw before. Many of the
designers in the studio went out to look at it. These guys will pick anything
to death! (Including their own work) But most had the same reaction…

Mark McChesney
'65 S1 Etype ots
'62 Mini Cooper
‘57 BMW Isetta 300 Deluxe
and Dads’ cars…
'72 S3 Etype V12 2+2
'69 S2 Etype Coupe RHD

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 17:24:45 -0005
Subject: Re: Parts for sale list on the web and Dealer comments

Well, I can finally disagree with Kirby;

LLoyd

Anybody know why Lloyd’s reply to my message came through with my
name in the “From” header? I almost deleted it without reading,
assuming it was one of my own messages.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 23:18:23 +0100 (MET)
Subject: XJ220 drivetrain details?

Anyone know what sort of engine the “production” version of the XJ220
had? Where it came from or what it was developed from? Or was it designed
from scratch?

What about the transmission, eh sorry, transaxle?

Thanks!

Gunnar

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 18:31:41 -0005
Subject: Thar She Blows!

For those who aren’t clear on where I live, just look at the weather
report tonight. Tropical Storm Josephine is headin’ right for me.
If it wasn’t such a lame storm, I’d be worried.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: LLoyd 3030P@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 96 15:39:44 PDT
Subject: Body number? Vehicle Number?

I’m stuck.
I had the sills replaced on my “E”, and they threw away my ID plate. Some
nerve, ehh? No appreciation for originality!
Anyhow, I bought a replacement ID plate, and it has a place for Body number
and a place for Vehicle number. It is a '71 DHC.
The body number is P2R13539, placed in the door sill and on the front box
frame. The window plate says 2R13539 without the “P” in front of it. But I
can’t find a “vehicle” number.
I’ve seen other DHC’s with different numbers in the vehicle number and
body number boxes, but don’t know where to locate the vehicle number.
Anyone have an idea of what I should do next?
BTW, I have tranny and engine numbers.
LLoyd -numbers, numbers. Do they all mean anything…?.. -

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 18:52:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: XJ6 Series III Door Disassembly

Andy: A pair of Vise-Grip pliers holding the bush,the only way I can see
to do it, or a new door.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC USA 29212 803 798 3044
On Mon, 7 Oct 1996 Andy.Reynolds@lifesciences.com wrote:

I am currently working on removing some surface rust on the driver’s door
of my 1985 XJ6 Sovereign.

I have just removed the external chrome strip at the base of the glass.

(This is held on with 5 (rusted) screws inside the door skin, accessible
by removing the weather strip plus the full door trim. There s a sixth screw
at the front - remove the inner and outer triangle shapes and mastic …)

Now to the easy bit - the door mirror …

Unfortunately, the (large, easily accessible, externally rust-free)
screws which hold the mirror on have siezed within their bushes.

The bushes simply turn with the screw.

Anyone got any ideas (eg swap their XK8 for a car
with real character).

Andy Reynolds Andy.Reynolds@lifesciences.com
XJ6 SIII 1985
Engineering Manager
Denley Instruments
UK +44 1403 783441 Ext. 262

From: sky182@ix.netcom.com (Gerald M Foster)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 16:01:33 -0700
Subject: XJ40 Oil leak

Sorry for wasting bandwidth on this one as I know its been covered many
times. But, I never thought my Jag would ever leak. Its been leak
free til now! Am I a dreamer or what? Just above the distributor at
the base of the head is a fairly good leak. I have the factory books.
However, what is the most economical way to stop it without major
surgery?

                        Gerald

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 18:58:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: XJS V12 radiator flush

Patrick: Some where around 85 or 86, as I have seen them both ways.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212 USA 803 798 3044On
Mon, 7 Oct 1996, Patrick Siu wrote:

Hi everyone,

Thanks for the help from Stefan, Jan, Mike, John and Gregory … I did
the radiator flush last weekend.

As many of you suggested, removing the bottom radiator hose from the
radiator ends work the best. Basically, I drained the old anti-freeze,
rinsed it a couple times. Refilled with a can of radiator flush and
fresh water, took the car for a cruise. Drained and rinsed a few times.
Refilled it with 50/50 mix anti-freeze and relaxed.

One point may be useful to add to Kirby’s help book (as Kirby suggested)
is to include when Jaguar remove the “remote control radiator drain plug”.
This plug is definitely not exist in my car. Does anyone know when the
change happened?

Thanks again for everyone’s help.

Patrick Siu
89 XJS V12 Conv

From: rrichardson@eurekanet.com (Robert J. Richardson)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 19:13:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Wrinkled Wing

Not my day—week–year!

Drove my 3000 to Waynesboro,Va for their British Car Weekend. Great
event!

Left the E-Type at home.

Wife decided to go for a spin.

While backing out of the garage, scraped the right front fender an
adjacent car!!! What the heck, it’s only a car----right?
Tom
Had a similar experience,Tom. Clutch won’t engage until pedal is almost all
the way out, thus sort of hairy on an incline. Thought I had it in first
gear when trying to back up to check suspected brake fluid leak. I was
aimed toward right side of garage. You guessed it. I revved my E-Type and
let out the clutch. Bang! That old nose ran into the garage. Nice big dent
and a ruined bumper guard. Have to get that darn clutch adjusted plus an
expensive nose job.

From: “Rennick, Kim (AS01)” KRennick@p03.as01.honeywell.com.au
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 96 08:12:00 EST
Subject: FW: XJ40 v’s SIII

This is a resend due to apparent mail failure - apologies for any
duplication.

From: Rennick, Kim (AS01)
To: ‘jag-lovers (post)’
Subject: XJ40 v’s SIII
Date: Friday, 4 October 1996 10:48AM

I thought I might add my 2c worth to this discussion, being as I am a
devoted XJ40 owner, as well as an ardent admirer of the SIII.

Firstly, I cant object to people preferring the styling of the SIII over
that of the XJ40. After all, the SIII is a most sublime piece of artistry,
combining elegance, agility and beautiful dynamic characteristics. It is
perhaps a shame that it took an external design studio to extract the final
touch of excellence out of the original Jaguar design. Then again, the
original SI and SII designs, which are ‘pure’ Jaguar in origin, are also
superb, each in its own way.

But for all that, I rather like the XJ40 styling - it is still elegant, it
‘moves’ well, and could only be a Jaguar. It still speaks of ‘grace, space
& pace’.

I do however object to the vague slurs being thrown at the design of the '40
rear suspension! When you look at Jaguar’s own design / testing data you
see that, in comparison to the SIII, the '40 provides:

improved anti dive / anti squat performance (69% anti-squat compensation,
19% anti-dive)
improved isolation characteristics, by careful tuning of resonant bounce
frequencies of wheel / axles
improved response of the body (resonant frequency reduced from 22Hz to
14Hz) to suspension input
improved bump steer performance (in fact maintaining slight toe out
geometry through bump and rebound, to enhance steering response)
mildly increased negative camber on bump to increase tyre contact profile
under cornering
improved lift-off oversteer performance
improved torque steer performance

There was considerable engineering & design effort expended on the XJ40
suspension against both ride & handling criteria. The design team had a
hard act to follow in the SIII, but any objective analysis would indicate
that they achieved their stated design objectives.

If one were to criticise the '40 suspension as a whole, it could be said to
be a touch too taut at suburban speeds, but then at highway speeds it is
quite astonishing in its sophistication. It doesn’t exhibit any of the high
speed float for which the SIII is sometimes criticised.

The '40 is an interesting car. Whereas one could reasonably say that the
SIII ‘evolved’ from its predecessors (which has both positive and negative
results, both in great measure!), the '40 was ‘created’, as a result of a
massive engineering exercise. When you look at any part of the car
(suspension, body structure, engine, brakes, electrics, the use of computers
in various applications, seats, ergonomics, etc) it is obvious that the
design is a real engineering ‘tour de force’. You might be tempted to say
that some of the engineering wasn’t 100% successful (verified by the fact
that later XJ40 , models tended to retreat somewhat from the engineering
‘purity’ of the original model), but anyone who claims to appreciate fine
engineering could only be impressed by the obvious effort and integrity that
went into the design & manufacture of the '40.

And after all, the design and the end result (with all the flaws it
undoubtedly has) are still very much a Jaguar! What else could it be?

I apologise for my excessive use of bandwidth here - I just thought someone
needed to speak up in defence of the somewhat maligned model!

Kim Rennick

From: sky182@ix.netcom.com (Gerald M Foster)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 16:14:37 -0700
Subject: Fuel leak XJ6

Joe Average wrote about fuel leaking from the top of his gas tank. I’m
sure he will get lots of replys, but just in case. Check the fuel
return solenoids in the trunk. One or both can be bad. The fuel that
is returned from the engine has to have somewhere to go. A
malfunctioning solenoid(s) allows it to be pumped back to the already
full tank and out the top it goes. Had it happen once on my XJ12
sedan. Nothing in the factory book mentioned such a problem. I
assumed that with the furious fuel consumption rate on the car that
nothing would ever be left to return to the tank! Wrong.

                            Gerald

From: sky182@ix.netcom.com (Gerald M Foster)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 16:24:19 -0700
Subject: Jag photos

Reference to good Jag photos. I downloaded a few from either
Compuserve or AOL, I don’t remember which. They were listed under a
special auto photo section. I also downloaded a program called Your
own screensaver, which you insert your BMP files and it rotates them as
a screensaver. The Mosiac file viewer on compuserve had a file
conversion utility to convert them from JPG and GIF to BMP. I have not
found a similar source of good car photos on the Web proper. I’m not
on AOL or Compuserve anymore or I would be more specific.

                            Gerald

From: hdrsons@iamerica.net (Hal Rogers)
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 16:30:26 -0600
Subject: Re: I Need a part

At 09:18 AM 10/7/96 PDT, LLoyd wrote:

Sorry to clutter the list with this, but thought I’ld come here first.
I need a vaccuum advance for the distributer of a '71 4.2 “E” type. Anyone
got one or a lead? I know we got a couple of parts guys on the list.

The original Lucas 5442224 is no longer available. I definitely don’t have
any of them. However, this vac advance also fit some TR6s. I do know that
another Lucas part 54400201 will fit TR6. Maybe it will work on the E…I am
not certain. The price of the supercession advance for the TR6 is $29.95. I
can supply these in about 2-4 days…though I will be gone to Hershey PA
(Thurs-Sat)
Hope this helps a bit.

Regards,
Hal

Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
Import Auto Specialists
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax

Serving Auto Enthusiasts since 1959

From: D.Hallam@mailbox.uq.oz.au (David Hallam)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 09:54:01 +1000
Subject: Re: Most Beautiful! XJ40 vs SIII (the reality)

Jim
I think I bought mine because of the design and enginnering. As a system it
facinates me. They are so much fun to drive too but having said that
Daimler never did have the flair of Lyons for design aethetics. From the
front I love the car, from inside they look great and drive well from the
back? It looks best with a trunk strapped to the rear boot lid to break the
lines that look like a portly maid.
A portly maid she ain’t.
What I would give for a going DB18 at $2500. Have a look at mine on my web
page. It was a mess and is slowly improving. At current rate it is 5 years
from the road.
I was posted to Qld and the car is in Canberra and it will stay for at
least 12 more months.
keep well.
/dlh

At 9:16 AM 7/10/96, James A. Isbell wrote:

Now for the worst boot, backend it would have to be the DB18 Daimler or
was it the XJS?

I cant agree. I once owned a 1948 DB18 (about 20 years ago) and I loved the
car. The leather seats were ALL leather, the windshield that opened for
fresh air, that wierd but neat semi-automatic transmission, the jacks built
in at each corner, the automatic chassis oiler, and all those other neat
gadgets that even the newest cars don’t have. I purchased it in Bude for
175 pounds, toured England in it, shipped it to the states for 150 pounds,
and then lost my mind and sold it for a paultry $2500.

It was a beautiful car, the best engineering I have ever seen.
                                                       Jim
“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

Without Treatment Development our past can only rot!

David Hallam, Senior Scientist, Materials Conservation,
Queensland Museum, PO Box 3300 South Brisbane 4101 QLD.
Australia -phone 07 34807684 D.Hallam@mailbox.uq.edu.au

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 10:34:49 -0500
Subject: Re: XK8

This is a Mime message, which your current mail reader
may not understand. Parts of the message will appear as
text. To process the remainder, you will need to use a Mime
compatible mail reader. Contact your vendor for details.

–IMA.Boundary.482237448
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Description: cc:Mail note part

In the US, traction control is part of the optional “cold package” which
also included heated seats, block heater and headlamp washers.

I drove a convertible without traction control over the weekend. It had no
inclination to break loose. Judging on “seat of the pants” feel, it might
be a little down on low end torque compared to the XJR /XJ-12. My XJ-S has
more of a tendency to break the rear end loose, and it certainly isn’t any
tire burner.

MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: XK8
Author: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com at Internet
Date: 10/5/1996 10:17 AM

Luckily there is a series of racetrack type corners several miles from the
dealer. As I was hustling the car through them I noticed that it felt like
the car was steering from the rear. It seems that the rear suspension
bushings could be a little firmer to prevent the rear geometry changes that
are allowing this to happen. The XJR has the same rear suspension and
tires, the next chance I get I’ll have to test it through the same area.
The 94 XJ12 motor, pre OBDII, has the most power so far. The low end
torque and the raw feel can almost edge out the XK8 V8. I think that the
XK8 has full time traction control because it is very difficult to get the
tires to break loose at low speed. The XJR and the XJ12 have switchable
traction control and you have to be cautious with the throttle when you
have it turned off.

–IMA.Boundary.482237448–

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #411

X-UIDL: a273dfd8d19422390a2d6b0f7248cf0c
Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4)
id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Tue, 8 Oct 1996 07:22:24 +0200 (MET DST)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 07:22:24 +0200 (MET DST)
Message-Id: 199610080522.HAA17161@ekeberg.sn.no
X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f
From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #412
Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Precedence: bulk
Status: RO
X-Status:
X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest

jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 8 October 1996 Volume 02 : Number 412

Re[2]: Most Beautiful! XJ40 vs SIII (the reality)
Re: XJ6 S1 furflex…
‘S’ type grill
Rear window replacement
XJ-S Spark Plug Wires
Re: XJ220 info
Re: Beer & Jaguars
Re: Glueman visiting Texas
XK8 Australian Prices
Re: XJ40 Oil leak
Re: XK8 Australian Prices (Tue Oct 8 09:25:44 1996)
re: Kirby’s last message
(My car
XK’s Unlimited open house
Re: XJ6 S1 furflex…
[XK8] Price
RE: XJ40 Oil leak
[XK engines] Lifespan?
Re: Most Beautiful! XJ40 vs SIII (the reality)
RE: XJ40 Oil leak Re: rear shocks

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 10:45:10 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: Most Beautiful! XJ40 vs SIII (the reality)

This is a Mime message, which your current mail reader
may not understand. Parts of the message will appear as
text. To process the remainder, you will need to use a Mime
compatible mail reader. Contact your vendor for details.

–IMA.Boundary.682237448
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Description: cc:Mail note part

You need to be more careful with your quoted replies. I DID NOT
write the words below. Notice the double “>>”? They were in a
message I replied to.

MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Most Beautiful! XJ40 vs SIII (the reality)
Author: David Hallam D.Hallam@mailbox.uq.oz.au at Internet
Date: 10/6/1996 7:11 AM

For a modern car the Mk2 is wonderful but for real beauty the SS100, 3.5
saloon and Mk4 cannot be surpassed.
Or the Daimler low chassis Doulbe Sixes from 1930?
Historic perspective seems lacking.

Now for the worst boot, backend it would have to be the DB18 Daimler or
was it the XJS?
/dlh.

Mike Cogswell wrote:

I am sorry guys (and gals) but I can remain silent no longer.
The MK II is the most beautiful Jag sedan ever produced.

David Hallam http://www.uq.edu.au/`qmdhalla
Senior Scientist
Materials Conservation
Queensland Museum d.hallam@mailbox.uq.edu.au
*** Without Treatment Development our past can only rot ***
____ Daimlers can be fun too! _____

–IMA.Boundary.682237448–

From: hdrsons@iamerica.net (Hal Rogers)
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 16:30:21 -0600
Subject: Re: XJ6 S1 furflex…

At 08:33 AM 10/6/96 PDT, Per Stenius wrote:

Hi! I commented on David Q’s mail earlier and suggested that the stuff he is
after might be called “furflex” (ie. the molding that goes around the door -
but not the posts - of an XJ6 S1). Well, when I visited XKU yesterday it turned
out that furflex will NOT do the job, and that this part is not really availa-
ble (at least not at XKU or any other source I know) except in black…
Hal Rogers siad he sells this product, but I am not sure whether he meant
furflex (which works fine for earlier models, but apparently not for the XJ6
S1) or something that would work for the XJ6 S1. Any comments Hal?

The part numbers for the Ser1 are RTC2609, 10, 11, 12…though rears may be
different for SWB and LWB versions. I am fairly sure that the originals are
a preformed seal,not cut to length …I have never tried the furflex or
aftermarket door opening seals to see if they would work. Black is the only
readily available color when you buy “by the yard” furflex or equiv. The
factory fit seals that I have access to are made in England, cannot confirm
if OE or reproductions. They are $46.50 each…retail is $54.95 each. I know
the English seals work fine and fit like originals…maybe they are?
However, black is the only color. Hope this helps.

Regards,
Hal

Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
Import Auto Specialists
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax

Serving Auto Enthusiasts since 1959

From: “MarrioSD” marriosd@ccmail.apldbio.com
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 96 16:20:04 PDT
Subject: ‘S’ type grill

Hi

Having recently visited some car shows it is now obvious that I have a MK II
grill on the front of my ‘S’ type for some unknown reason. The center vain is
correct but the grill is wrong.

Could anybody advise of a source for a replacement/second hand grill.

I believe the vains and the outer piece are 2 parts, I’ve found 1 place that has
the center vains for $75, this seems reasonable because a local scrap yard wants
big bucks for a complete unit.

Does anybody want to swop a MK II for and ‘S’ type.

Regards

Steve

From: “MarrioSD” marriosd@ccmail.apldbio.com
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 96 16:14:12 PDT
Subject: Rear window replacement

Hi

I recently bought a 65 ‘S’ type Jag, but the rear window was out of the car
because the rear rubber had corroded.

I now have the new rubber seal and need to reinstall it. The weather here in
California is starting to cool and we may have some rain soon.

Any advise tips on the installation would be appreciated. I’m experienced with
TR6 front windscreen replacement, same deal with the glass in the rubber then
have a cord in the rubber channel and pull the cord out!

Regards

Steve.

From: Aaron Burnett aaron.burnett@attws.com
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 17:12:13 -0700
Subject: XJ-S Spark Plug Wires

Kirby,

I was poking around your website today and looked at the picture of your
engine. What sort of spark plug wires are you using? As you may
remember from earlier e-mails, I have had problems with arcing among
wires. I replaced the old set with a new Lucas set about 9 months ago,
but have the problem again.

Thanks in advance

(Also would like to hear recommendations from anyone else encountering
good success with a specific type of plug wire)

Aaron,
'85 XJ-S

From: DisneyPors@aol.com
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 20:26:19 -0400
Subject: Re: XJ220 info

<< Anyone know what sort of engine the “production” version of the XJ220
had? Where it came from or what it was developed from? Or was it designed
from scratch? >>

I dont know a whole lot off the top of my head (and I cant go dig out the old
magazines right now), but if was originally designed to have a 12 cyl based
on their IMSA GTP car’s engine. By production they had shortened the car (a
lot, I think about a foot or so) and changed to a twin turbo 6 cyl. Sorry,
thats all I recall right now. Of course, the change made it fall short of
it’s original design goal of 220MPH and it went 212 only - Doug

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 18:36:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Beer & Jaguars

I’ve made beer, and as far as I know salt is never an ingredient. And,
Shandy is a ladies drink.

You see, thats why I drink Burbon. If it is beer and it doesent taste like
shit its called a “ladies drink”

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 20:56:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Glueman visiting Texas

Hi all,
Since glueman is not often seen on this list many
may not know him. I’ve had many conversations with
gerry and can tell you he is one interesting dude!
If I lived in Texas I would go a long way to meet him!
(Sorry for leaving his post attached, but my post would
make no sense without it!)
Gerry-if you come to Toronto…!

At 03:55 PM 07/10/96 GMT, he wrote:

I live in Switzerland and occasionally travel in the U.S., mainly in
connection with my business branch in California.

For the last weeks of this month my wife and I plan to travel around in
Texas, probably from Dallas west to San San Antonio and south to the Big
Bend National Park. No firm plans yet.

Any suggestion from friendly and sympathetic locals of what to do and to see
while driving around (unfortunately not in a classic, but in a dull rented
Sedan) is highly appreciated, especially (but not only) if car related.
Glue Man
glueman@collano.ch (former address: gleuma@dial.eunet.ch)

Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
'62 E-Type, ots

From: “Barry Cooper” b.w.cooper@acslink.aone.net.au
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 09:25:44 +1000
Subject: XK8 Australian Prices

Interesting that US Jag Lovers think the XK8 is expensive.

Expected Australian price is from $AUS185,000 which (at an exchange rate of
$US1.00 - $AUS1.26) equates to $US146,825.

The quoted US price of $70,000 would normally equate to $AUS88,200. The
difference is Australian duty and sales tax.

Australian wages are generally lower than US as well so XK8s are not
intended for the average Australian enthusiast.

Barry Cooper
Mackay
Queensland, Australia

From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 21:41:22 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: XJ40 Oil leak

Sorry for wasting bandwidth on this one as I know its been covered many
times. But, I never thought my Jag would ever leak. Its been leak
free til now! Am I a dreamer or what? Just above the distributor at
the base of the head is a fairly good leak. I have the factory books.
However, what is the most economical way to stop it without major
surgery?

1> inspect around the cam cover gasket. if dry (oil starts lower) go on.

Now, clean the area well. Start the engine and hold at 2000-2500 rpm while
watching the area for the oil to start flowing.

2> If the oil comes from the oval thing on the side of the head (two nuts
hold it on), then the timing chain tensioner is leaking.

3> If the oil comes out of the head/block interface just in front of the
lead exhaust manifold, then it is the head gasket.

Repair requires replacing the gaskets/seals needed. In the case of #3, you
will also cover #1 and #2 in doing the job.

                       Gerald

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

From: DCampbell@acorn.co.nz (David Campbell)
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 96 15:08:49 GMT
Subject: Re: XK8 Australian Prices (Tue Oct 8 09:25:44 1996)

Interesting that US Jag Lovers think the XK8 is expensive.

Expected Australian price is from $AUS185,000 which (at an exchange rate of
$US1.00 - $AUS1.26) equates to $US146,825.

The quoted US price of $70,000 would normally equate to $AUS88,200. The
difference is Australian duty and sales tax.

Australian wages are generally lower than US as well so XK8s are not
intended for the average Australian enthusiast.

Barry Cooper
Mackay
Queensland, Australia

Anybody know how much one will be in New Zealand?
I guess even more seeing our dollars worth about 0.84 Australian!!

Dave C
'77 XJ-S

From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 96 19:12:00 PDT
Subject: re: Kirby’s last message

 Yeah, I looked at it twice, too.  At first I thought you were 
 talking to yourself.
 
 David
 
 Kirby writes and asks:
 
 >Anybody know why Lloyd's reply to my message came through with my
 >name in the "From" header?  I almost deleted it without reading,
 >assuming it was one of my own messages.
 
 >  -- Kirbert     |     If anything is to be accomplished,
 >                 |     some rules must be broken.
 >                 |          - Palm's Postulate

From: Veronica Coats rccola@ctos.com
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 1996 20:39:20 -0700
Subject: (My car

Hi Troops!
would like more info. I own a Jaguar XJS V12 convertible ( Black
on Black cira 1989) would like info regarding said car. An expreience to
drive. Please E-Mail at rccola@ctos.com Look forward to hearing from you!
Happy Trails

From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 96 19:46:00 PDT
Subject: XK’s Unlimited open house

 I drove to the XK's Unlimited open house this weekend with my two 
 boys, James and Jonathan.  400 mile drive from Scaramento  By the 
 time we got there I had them convinced that this day was *my* day and they 
 should be very nice to me, and that tomorrow would be *our* day (i.e.      
 *their* day - as usual).  
 
 We arrived late-ish - about 1:30, but this gave us plenty of time 
 to look around and meet people.  I bought a bunch of miscellaneous 
 parts for my E, and saved 20% and shipping.  At the make_an_offer 
 table I picked up a new direction indicator (turn signal, 
 Americans) switch for a '71, but maybe it'll fit.  For $5, it'll 
 fit.  I dunno if the turn-signal-stalk horn button is compatible, 
 if not I'll be following Mike Frank's instructions on how to get 
 a series II E horn to honk from the center button.

 LLoyd Nolan found me and introduced himself.  Said I'd just missed 
 Ryan Border leaving in his MKII.

 There were some beautiful cars there.  I spoke with one of the XKU 
 guys who showed me just what they had done to a 74 OTS E and a MKII 
 to justify the $120K each to the owner (some rich guy in Florida).         
 Polished down to the last screw.

 Jason Len told me that the turnout this year was light compared to last    
 year.  I'll be there next time.

 My 7-tear old son came up and said 'Dad, you like beer, don't you?'.  
 I was busy and replied yes.  Next thing he's running back with a 
 cold one.  Seeing it was the last one, he had hidden it way down in the ice
 so no one else would get it before he found out if I wanted it or not.     
 *Now that's* taking care of Dad.  (But I'm not so low that I'd send my kid 
 to fetch me beer!)

 Now I see from the jag-lovers mail traffic that others were there, too.    
 I've got to do a better job of looking for you all.     

 Best,

 David

From: Shane Gibson shane_gibson@qsp.co.nz
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 1996 15:54:11 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ6 S1 furflex…

At 08:33 AM 10/6/96 PDT, Per Stenius wrote:

Hi! I commented on David Q’s mail earlier and suggested that the stuff he is
after might be called “furflex” (ie. the molding that goes around the door -
but not the posts - of an XJ6 S1). Well, when I visited XKU yesterday it turned
out that furflex will NOT do the job, and that this part is not really availa-
ble (at least not at XKU or any other source I know) except in black…
Hal Rogers siad he sells this product, but I am not sure whether he meant
furflex (which works fine for earlier models, but apparently not for the XJ6
S1) or something that would work for the XJ6 S1. Any comments Hal?

Hal Rogers Wrote
The part numbers for the Ser1 are RTC2609, 10, 11, 12…though rears may be
different for SWB and LWB versions. I am fairly sure that the originals are
a preformed seal,not cut to length …I have never tried the furflex or
aftermarket door opening seals to see if they would work. Black is the only
readily available color when you buy “by the yard” furflex or equiv. The
factory fit seals that I have access to are made in England, cannot confirm
if OE or reproductions. They are $46.50 each…retail is $54.95 each. I know
the English seals work fine and fit like originals…maybe they are?
However, black is the only color. Hope this helps.

I have replaced the beige furflex on my Daimler with new furflex brought
by the metre from the NZ Daimler and Lanchester Owners Club.

If you wish I could contact them and see what other colours they have
and if they are applicable to S1’s.

Let me know.

Shane Gibson
Wellington, New Zealand
1968 Daimler V8 250 - either Baldrk or Edmund (I haven’t made my mind up
yet)

From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 04:03:27 +0100 (MET)
Subject: [XK8] Price

gunnar@medial.se (Gunnar Forsgren) wrote:

It’s time to begin saving up. A reasonably equipped cabriolet
costs 750 000 Skr (Swedish Crowns).

I just checked today. In Norway the same car costs around 1.5 million
Norwegian Kroner. At 6.5 Kroner to the $ that should work out to a
whopping $230,000! (Around 1.3 million or $200,000 for the coupe).

I could comment further on that, but then again you all know my feelings
about the prices of cars in Norway…

By the way, what are the chances of getting a Green Card in the US these
days?

Gunnar

From: Mike Everatt meveratt@Direct.CA
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 20:12:48 -0700
Subject: RE: XJ40 Oil leak

Randy,
RE: XJ40 Head Gasket leak
Has Jag updated the gasket to prevent this problem recurring? Is the problem due to poor gasket design, head design or possible head warping? Any ideas – I don’t want to be re-doing head gaskets for a relatively minor leak.

Also – any suggestions on aftermarket kits for updating XJ40 rear suspension. The local Jag dealer wants $1100.00 CDN for the OEM conversion kit. (About $800.00 US) Ouch

Finally – anyone know of good quality Stainless Steel exhaust for XJ40? There seems to be lots of aftermarket for SIII, but I guess XJ40’s are just starting to blow catalytics!

Mike Everatt
1987 1/2 XJ40

From: Randy Wilson[SMTP:randy@taylor.infi.net]
Sent: Monday, October 07, 1996 2:41 PM
To: jag
Subject: Re: XJ40 Oil leak

Sorry for wasting bandwidth on this one as I know its been covered many
times. But, I never thought my Jag would ever leak. Its been leak
free til now! Am I a dreamer or what? Just above the distributor at
the base of the head is a fairly good leak. I have the factory books.
However, what is the most economical way to stop it without major
surgery?

1> inspect around the cam cover gasket. if dry (oil starts lower) go on.

Now, clean the area well. Start the engine and hold at 2000-2500 rpm while
watching the area for the oil to start flowing.

2> If the oil comes from the oval thing on the side of the head (two nuts
hold it on), then the timing chain tensioner is leaking.

3> If the oil comes out of the head/block interface just in front of the
lead exhaust manifold, then it is the head gasket.

Repair requires replacing the gaskets/seals needed. In the case of #3, you
will also cover #1 and #2 in doing the job.

                       Gerald

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 04:54:43 +0100 (MET)
Subject: [XK engines] Lifespan?

Jim Goring jgoring@ccnet.com wrote:

Also, 84000 miles on an unrebuilt XK engine is alot. If it really is
original, it will need an overhaul soon, and that will cost more than
you are paying for the car.

Really? All XK engines?

My '86 Series III 4.2 has so far seen 180,000 kilometers (112,500 miles) of
service and I know for sure it has never been rebuilt. Actually, as I
removed the exhaust side valve cover to fix a tappet guide problem it
looked to me as this had never been off before! All the nuts looked
untouched, there were no signs of previous scraping of gasket material
on neither the head nor the cover and the remains of the gasket were a
real pain to remove. I’m ready to believe that that gasket has been on
there for ten years…

(And now for the part where I knock on wood). The engine runs like a
dream, has good oil pressure and no noises. Like Ryan wrote about his XK
engine, it pulls like a train to 4,500 rpm and beyond.

Thinking about it, I think that’s the part I enjoy most about the car.
That wonderful engine! Well OK, I like the luxury of the interior
too. A Series III XJ6 certainly is no sports car, but when you let
the engine play above 3000 rpm the car really comes to life. The sound
of an XK engine climbing through the revs…

I love that car!

(Yes I worked on the car today and fixed a couple of minor problems that
had been annoying me and then went for a long, spirited and successful test
drive afterwards. How could you tell?

Gunnar

From: David Hallam d.hallam@mailbox.uq.edu.au
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 1996 14:47:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Most Beautiful! XJ40 vs SIII (the reality)

It would have helped if I had put the URL in the sig file!
http://www.uq.edu.au/~qmdhalla/
is my home page but skip the junk and go straight to the mess at
http://www.uq.edu.au/~qmdhalla/redone.htm
/dlh.

*** Without Treatment Development our past can only rot ****
David Hallam Senior Scientist, Materials Conservation
Queensland Museum, PO Box 3300 South Brisbane Qld. 4101 Australia.
************************* Standard Disclaimer;*************************
D.Hallam@mailbox.uq.edu.auhttp://www.uq.edu.au/~qmdhalla/**

From: cobac@ix.netcom.com
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 22:16:36 -0700
Subject: RE: XJ40 Oil leak Re: rear shocks

At 08:12 PM 10/7/96 -0700, you wrote:

Also – any suggestions on aftermarket kits for updating XJ40 rear
suspension. The local Jag dealer wants $1100.00 CDN for the OEM conversion
kit. (About $800.00 US) Ouch

Mike Everatt
1987 1/2 XJ40

Mike,
I don’t know much about your other problems, but I can make a
susggestion on those rear shocks, from my previous experience with my '89
XJ40. I would VERY STRONGLY suggest that you buy the conversion kit
supplied by Jaguar. I have spent over $1000 US , on just trying to get my
car to ride beautifully again, and this was accomplished through the Jaguar
(Bilstein shocks) conversion kit. This kit includes everything: New shims,
spring seats, shocks, and most importantly NEW LONGER SPRINGS!
First, I spent a few hundred dollars on trying to fix the hydraulics, no
luck! Then I spent about $250 on the KYB conversion kit (it’s also offered
through Terry’s Jag parts) and tried to save myself money over the expensive
dealer kit. Little did I know that the KYB aftermarket kit rides HORRIBLY,
and most importantly the whole car sags in the back because the kit doesn’t
offer modified springs. Finally, I just got fed up with the cars horrible
ride, and ugly sagging profile. So, I sprang for the dealer conversion kit!
Now, I’m really happy, the car rides EXCELLENTLY and I can now watch other
XJ40’s bounce and sag, and I know I’ll never have that problem again! It’s
also perfectly level do to the new springs included with the kit.
$800 US for the kit seems pretty high, unless that includes
installation. I purchased my factory JAGUAR kit for around + - $450, and I
installed it myself with no trouble (I was used to it already because of
removing/installing the KYB’s a few times trying to correct the sagging).
The current issue of Hemmings I think has some places offering the kit for
about this price, if not a US dealer could probably ship it to you and save
you a few $$$.
Well, after all this grief of trying to save a few extra dollars, it
turned out I lost more money than I would have, and I also have a box full
of new KYB shocks/springs with about 200 miles on them, that no one wants
either. Save yourself some grief, and find the dealer kit somewhere that is
at a more appealing price. In my opinion the KYB kit is a rip off, and
since that occurance I will only use parts on my car that come straight from
Jaguar and are specifically manufactured by the companys suppliers.

Hope this is of some help!
Eric
cobac@ix.netcom.com
1989 XJ40 Vanden Plas

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #412

Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4)
id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Tue, 8 Oct 1996 16:39:34 +0200 (MET DST)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 16:39:34 +0200 (MET DST)
Message-Id: 199610081439.QAA12544@ekeberg.sn.no
X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f
From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #413
Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Precedence: bulk
X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest

jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 8 October 1996 Volume 02 : Number 413

Big Mac index - marginal Jag content
ECU maintenance
Re: XK8 Australian Prices (Tue Oct 8 09:25:44 1996)
Re: XK8
Re: Beer & Jaguars (some Jag content)
SS-100 information
re: Kirby’s last message
S-Type Rear window replacement
Re: Beer & Jaguars (clarification)
JAG: Re: XJ220 engine
Re: S-Type Rear window replacement
XJ-S Drain Plug
TO all XJS owners…
Re: XK’s Unlimited open house
Trips to Harlow UK, and San jose
Stolen 1986 XJ12 Vanden Plas
Re[2]: S-Type Rear window replacement
Libel on the Net; XK120
Cat in the Hat
62 E, oil pressure too high

From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 96 22:27:00 PDT
Subject: Big Mac index - marginal Jag content

 Robin Cooper brings up an interesting tidbit.  The purpose of the 
 Big Mac index is, as Robin says, to evaluate currencies against 
 each other to determine which are under-/over-valued, and what is 
 par.  This is feasible since the Big Mac is made locally, of local 
 materials (beef/wheat/and whatever else is in there) with local 
 labor.  All paid for, up and down the food chain, if you will, with 
 local currency.  It actually compares well with other, higher-brow, 
 indexes.
 
 Now if you could smuggle  Big Macs from countries with under-valued 
 currencies and sell them in countries with over-valued currencies 
 (there can be a 2:1 spread), you'd purchase that XK8 in no time.
 Some of the rest of us will have to wait till the XK8s have a few 
 10's of thousands of miles/kilometers on them.  I may wait till 
 there's a restorable one - perhaps one of those lucky 'barn finds' 
 that we hear about.....
 
 The last time I looked at the web site
    http://www.economist.com
 the Big Mac index wasn't there; maybe after the next annual update 
 of the index.  It's a marvelous magazine, IMHO.  
 
 David
 
 
 >From: COOPER ROBIN D <COOPER_ROBIN_D@Lilly.com>
 >Date: Fri, 04 Oct 1996 13:23:26 +0000 (GMT)
 >Subject: currency conversion again
 
 >the magazine 'the economist' uses a measure of currency comparison 
 >to see whether a particular currency is over/undervalued in 
 >relationship to other currencies. what they compare is the cost of 
 >a big mac and fries at the local macdonalds-no kidding .i wonder 
 >how many big macs the new jag will cost in the different markets. 
 >robin

From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 96 22:41:00 PDT
Subject: ECU maintenance

 Hi All.  Re: the recent note from Tom G., suggesting retouching 
 solder joints within the ECU in case any are bad.  *If* you are 
 certain that the ECU is bad, then at least you couldn't make it 
 worse.  *If* you're not so sure, you should consider the external 
 connectors, as Tom suggests, first.  Anyway, if you're committed to 
 getting inside the ECU, you should understand what ESD 
 (ElectroStatic Discharge) will do to the CPU inside the ECU box.  A 
 spark too weak for you to notice, will toast the CPU, esp. on the 
 early '80s CPUs.  And then it'll be real dead.  The potential is 
 definitely still there on newer ones.  If you retouch solder 
 joints, use a low-wattage soldering iron.  You'll cook the 
 sensitive parts faster than you can believe.
 
 In my experience, as Tom's, connectors are the place to look first. 
 Although I did debug my Sony Discman (1984 vintage) a few years ago 
 and find a bad solder joint in a moving part (the voice-coil lens 
 positioner).  That was rare.
 
 David
 BSEE
 '70 XKE2+2 - points, a coil, and a screwdriver.
 '84XJ6 VDP

From: stephen kurtzman stephen@kurtzman.com
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 22:50:49 -0800
Subject: Re: XK8 Australian Prices (Tue Oct 8 09:25:44 1996)

Interesting that US Jag Lovers think the XK8 is expensive.

Expected Australian price is from $AUS185,000 which (at an exchange rate of
$US1.00 - $AUS1.26) equates to $US146,825.

The quoted US price of $70,000 would normally equate to $AUS88,200. The
difference is Australian duty and sales tax.

The local salesman said Jaguar brought it into the US about $10,000 under
what their initial thoughts were. This was apparently done under the
influence of a council of 5 big dealers in the US.

Of course, this could also be a line to keep the price close to invoice.

From: stephen kurtzman stephen@kurtzman.com
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 22:48:37 -0800
Subject: Re: XK8

I drove a convertible without traction control over the weekend. It had no
inclination to break loose. Judging on “seat of the pants” feel, it might
be a little down on low end torque compared to the XJR /XJ-12. My XJ-S has
more of a tendency to break the rear end loose, and it certainly isn’t any
tire burner.

MikeC
______________________________ Reply Separator
Subject: XK8
Author: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com at Internet
Date: 10/5/1996 10:17 AM

The XJR has the same rear suspension and
tires, the next chance I get I’ll have to test it through the same area.
The 94 XJ12 motor, pre OBDII, has the most power so far. The low end
torque and the raw feel can almost edge out the XK8 V8. I think that the
XK8 has full time traction control because it is very difficult to get the
tires to break loose at low speed. The XJR and the XJ12 have switchable
traction control and you have to be cautious with the throttle when you
have it turned off.

I test drove a coupe over the weekend. The base XK8 does not have traction
control. The salesman said that it has some electronically controlled
system that reduces the flow of fuel to the engine if it detects
instability. I forget the name of this system.

My test drive was not tremendously eventful. The XK8 has a very smooth,
steady, and quiet delivery of power. It didn’t have the same kick as my XJR
when I floored it on the freeway. It’s a nice car, but I didn’t get a real
chance to test it. I’m going back to try a convertible when they get one in
for test driving.

From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@CompuServe.COM
Date: 08 Oct 96 02:44:47 EDT
Subject: Re: Beer & Jaguars (some Jag content)

Hi Jim Isbell,

Can’t help it, I must slag you for the remarks on beer. It may be that beer is
bitter
but it is supposed to be so…

…and that comes from a bourbon drinker !. Bourbon is the most disgusting
whisky-wanna-be
which bears no resemblance to the real thing produced in the better areas of
Scotland.

Jim Beam.& Jack Daniels… How can anyone drink this cow-piss? It’s like
Panda’s next to E-types (
(that was the JAG-CONTENT) !!!
Now show me a good Bourbon and I’ll be happy to taste it.

Sweet beer can be bought in Denmark, Belgium, Germany… And I find it
difficult to find really bitter beer…

Could it be that taste is non-discussable ? No never…

Oh, well…wasting bandwidth again…

Jeffrey Gram

From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 10:02:44 -0700
Subject: SS-100 information

Mark Frank wrote:

Can anyone help me with specific tips? What
are the strengths and weak points of this car? What is the present market
value? Any info would help.

Don’t ask, buy it!

Bard
Jaguar XJ6 Series I 1973

From: “Alastair Lauener” a.lauener@napier.ac.uk
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 96 09:13:47 gmt
Subject: re: Kirby’s last message

Anybody know why Lloyd’s reply to my message came through with my
name in the “From” header? I almost deleted it without reading,
assuming it was one of my own messages.

Um, it’s been doing this for some time, confused me before. I think it must be
Lloyd’s mailer a bit weird.

Alastair Lauener

From: “Alastair Lauener” a.lauener@napier.ac.uk
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 96 09:21:12 gmt
Subject: S-Type Rear window replacement

Any advise tips on the installation would be appreciated. I’m experienced with
TR6 front windscreen replacement, same deal with the glass in the rubber then
have a cord in the rubber channel and pull the cord out!

There should be no difficulty, simply put seal in place, rest window on seal,
(second bod handy here) and prise lip over window. I used a blunt awl, which I
ben to a convenient angle, and since used it on another S-Type. Give beer to
second bod. Actually, the window doesn’t sit well , until the central filler/
expander tube bit is in the seal, to hold everything in place. This is much
more difficult to do. You need to expand the centre of the seal, and run the
tube in. Very sore on the thumbs and fingers. Tempting to use implements to
help, and be careful of the paint if one slips. The book says to use the cord
method, but personally, I have never been successful with that.

Alastair Lauener *
1964 3.4 S-Type http://www.sn.no/home/nick/alas.html *

From: Robert Bradley Robert.Bradley@bh.eyi.com
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 03:42:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Beer & Jaguars (clarification)

I bit my tongue for a while but let’s try this once more, since I started it.
My point was supposed to be.

There is no such thing as a bad beer. (refer footnote #1)
There is no such thing as a bad Jaguar (model) (refer footnote #2)

#1 However, some people don’t like beer (for their own, perfectly
valid, reasons)
#2 However some people don’t like Jaguars (for their own reasons which I
don’t (need to) understand)

I am sure Jim is not the only one on this list who falls into category #1.
However, my analogue is still valid.

P.S. I never mentioned whether or not I actually liked beer either.

From: ejt@wg.icl.co.uk (Ted Trim)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 96 10:26:20 BST
Subject: JAG: Re: XJ220 engine

Gunnar Helliesen asked about the production XJ220 engine…

I believe that this is the engine originally designed from scratch by Rover
for the Metro 6R4 group B rally car in the early/mid eighties. It was then
normally aspirated and had the fattest torque curve imaginable. This
engine was used in the Spice sportscar that competed in the WSC at around
the time of the V12 Jags (late eighties). When group B cars were banned
Rover sold the engine. TWR bought the rights either then or later, and did
a great deal of development (i.e. twin turbos etc) for use in the Jags (after
or concurrent with the 48valve V12 development).

(As an aside, the 6R4 development hacks used a V6 which was cut down from the
Rover (ex Buick) V8, but the later engine owes nothing to this)

Hope this is of interest…don’t know about the transaxle.

Cheers,
Ted

ejt@wg.icl.co.uk

From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 13:53:40 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: S-Type Rear window replacement

On Tue, 8 Oct 1996, you wrote:

You need to expand the centre of the seal, and run the
tube in. Very sore on the thumbs and fingers.

The book says to use the cord
method, but personally, I have never been successful with that.

Works for me. But before you do anything else, smear the gasket with
suitably “slimy” washing-up detergent along the lip.

The tube should also be lubricated before you insert it. To fit it, I
fabricate a tool from cloth hanger wire and a bit of broomstick that looks
something like this:

                         __________
                         !        !
                         !        !
                         !        !
                         !        !
                         !        !
                         !        !
                         !        !
                         !        !
                         !________! <--- Drill a suitable hole for the
                             ||          wire, secure with epoxy glue
                             ||
                             || <--- Optionally wrap a few rounds of fine
                            /  \     string here, securing with glue 
  +---------------------->  \__/
  |
  +--  The size of the loop should be so that the rubber tube will fit 
       with a slight clearance.

For the less adventurous, similar tools is also available quite
inexpensively from various auto tool suppliers. But ordering such a thing
means that you have to be a person capable of planning a few days ahead
;-). Besides, I really enjoy making useful tools from wire hangers and
pieces of broomstick. Plus you don’t get to make ASCII drawings of them.

Make a similar but J-shaped tool for fitting the chrome surround. Be sure
to round off the tip nicely.

For sealing, never use anything but the forever sticky black 3M window
sealer stuff. Clean off excess with White Spirit.

Egil

Email: egilk@sn.no Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL: http://home.sn.no/home/egilk/

From: “Himes,John W.” jwh@mime.dw.lucent.com
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 96 07:27:00 PDT
Subject: XJ-S Drain Plug

In reply to the below message, I have an 88 V12 XJ-S ( MFG 3/87 ) & it does
not have the remote drain plug. I would have to un-hook the lower hose
before I had a drain plug added a few months ago when I had the radiator
rodded.

John Himes
88 XJ-S 98K Miles

is to include when Jaguar remove the “remote control radiator drain plug”.
This plug is definitely not exist in my car. Does anyone know when the
change happened?

Well, 87 has it and your 89 doesn’t. Anyone got an 88?

Thomas E. Alberts

From: Steven_Adderson@sandwich.pfizer.com
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 96 14:31:59 BST
Subject: TO all XJS owners…

Hi folks!

Almost by the minute I’m convincing myself more and more that I want an
XJS. It won’t be particularly new though so I’m still thinking about it.

Can people mail me with what they like about their XJS and what they
dislike?

My main worry is maintenance costs, especially as I’ll be looking at '80s
Jags. Just how reliable are the engines,'boxes, axles, racks etc? Do they
stand up to spirited driving well? I’m no stranger to car mechanics so I’d
hopefully be able to do my own labour. Do things break often, like some
other British cars, or do the Jaguars live up to their ‘precision
engineered’ image? Are there any ‘bad’ years for the XJS? DO they all
come with leather/wood etc?

I’d imagine that UK Jags differ to overseas ones. Would this be correct?
Do the US ones have all the power zapping emissions control equipment on
them?

Steve

From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 09:38:57 -0400
Subject: Re: XK’s Unlimited open house

On Oct 7, 7:46pm, David J Shield wrote:

Subject: XK’s Unlimited open house
I drove to the XK’s Unlimited open house this weekend…

Did you by chance see the SWB V12 OTS (S1/S3) that they have pictured in their
catalog? I would love to see that car.

Mark

From: “mark (m.d.) roberts” markdr@nortel.ca
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 09:22:00 -0400
Subject: Trips to Harlow UK, and San jose

I will be travelling to Harlow, UK on business
from Oct 24 to Nov 1. I would be very interested
in meeting any “jag-lovers” who might be in the
area. I also have the weekend off to do whatever,
so I thought I might do a little sight-seeing. Any
info would be greatly appreciated…it will be my first
trip to England. I’ll be staying at the Churchgate
Inn in Harlow.

Also, from Nov. 9 to 15 I will be in the San Jose area
of the US. Again I’d be very interested in meeting
any “jag-lovers” who might be in the area. I plan
on going up to Stockton to Jag Heaven on the 14th,
so if anyone is interested in that, please let me know.
I’ll be staying at the Red Lion Inn in San Jose.

Please contact me off-line.

Regards, Mark Roberts Phone: (613) 763-2924
Ottawa, Ontario, CANADA Fax: (613) 763-3970
1988 VDP - SIII V12 email: markdr@nortel.ca
1963 3.8L E-Type Coupe - 16 years into a 3 year project

From: “mark (m.d.) roberts” markdr@nortel.ca
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 09:22:00 -0400
Subject: Stolen 1986 XJ12 Vanden Plas

I am sad to report that a 1986 Sage Green XJ12 Vanden Plas
was stolen yesterday in the Ottawa, Canada area.

You may all remember this car, it was the one that Dennis
Rockwood tried to import into the US, but could not
get it to meet his State’s EPA emissions standards.
Dennis’ loss, my friends gain…until yesterday anyway.

Car serial number is SAJBN1047GC455683. Note also that
the C455683 part is etched into all the windows, making
parting of the car less profitable

Could all those members in the Ottawa, Montreal and Toronto area
keep a look out for this car, and pass on the info to
other Jag-o-philes. Thanks.

Regards, Mark Roberts Phone: (613) 763-2924
Ottawa, Ontario, CANADA Fax: (613) 763-3970
1988 VDP - SIII V12 email: markdr@nortel.ca
1963 3.8L E-Type Coupe - 16 years into a 3 year project

From: “Alastair Lauener” a.lauener@napier.ac.uk
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 96 15:07:53 gmt
Subject: Re[2]: S-Type Rear window replacement

On Tue, 8 Oct 1996, Egil wrote:

Works for me. But before you do anything else, smear the gasket with
suitably “slimy” washing-up detergent along the lip.
The tube should also be lubricated before you insert it.

I used a silicon spray as a lubricant, worked very well, and cleaned off fairly
easily

To fit it, I fabricate a tool from cloth hanger wire and a bit of broomstick >
that looks something like this:

                        __________
                        !        !
                        !        !
                        !        !
                        !        !
                        !        !
                        !        !
                        !        !
                        !        !
                        !________! <--- Drill a suitable hole for the
                            ||          wire, secure with epoxy glue
                            ||
                            || <--- Optionally wrap a few rounds of fine
                           /  \     string here, securing with glue 
 +---------------------->  \__/
 |
 +--  The size of the loop should be so that the rubber tube will fit 
      with a slight clearance.

Exactly. Which I had the patience to make something like that. Wish I had the
patience to draw that too

For sealing, never use anything but the forever sticky black 3M window
sealer stuff. Clean off excess with White Spirit.
Yup.

Alastair Lauener

From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@CompuServe.COM
Date: 08 Oct 96 10:19:02 EDT
Subject: Libel on the Net; XK120

John Littler:  you would be wrong to assume that US libel laws are worse

than Aus. Aus has some of the most restrictive libel laws in the Western world,
different too from state to state. You need to be very careful indeed. There
have certainly been several actionable libels on Jag Lovers in the past. Of
course, one of the biggest problems of being sued is facing up to the stress and
legal costs - even before you consider if the other guy might get damages, or
you might win yourself. Few are prepared to take the risk - why would you?
Lawrence Buja: could you find out and send me the numbers of the XK120
coupe your friend found? I will add it to the worldwide register.
Regards, John Elmgreen

From: Steve Draper s_draper@wcsr.com
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 10:08:52 -0400
Subject: Cat in the Hat

Just got a 1989 xj6(40) vanden plas. 39k miles, 10G US price. Thought
I’d share the news. Now the semi-spousal unit doesn’t have to drive my
xj-s! Any theories on the “new” car would be appreciated. It’s being
driven in North Carolina, where the rain never stops.

Steve
'88 XJ-S
'89 XJ40 Vanden Plas

From: jgardner@rmii.com (John Gardner)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 96 08:38 MDT
Subject: 62 E, oil pressure too high

I have a problem with oil pressure on my 62 E type. Recently, after
replacing the instrument voltage regulator, I noticed the oil pressure gauge
was pegged at over 60 psi. I assumed I had wired the gauge incorrectly, and
drove it to work and back. When I got into it, the wiring looked ok, so a
couple of days ago I replaced the sender unit. No change.

I’m starting to believe that the pressure is real. The gauge reads zero
with the ignitions on, but not running. Within a few seconds of starting
the engine, the gauge is maxed out (over 60 psi). I’ve also noticed that
now I am blowing smoke on acceleration (much more than normal). I assume
this could be a result of the pressure being to high.

This seemed to have all come on very suddenly. I’m afraid to drive the car
until I get this resolved. I’m going to change the oil and filter tonight
in case the filter is clogged.

Could the bypass valve cause this?

Is there a mechanical oil pressure gauge available with the correct thread
that I could put in to verify the pressure?

BTW, I have started to put together a list of links to Jaguar pictures on
the web. So far these are just links to some photos on team.net and some E
types from the jag lovers site.

My home page is at http://rainbow.rmi.net/~jgardner/top.htm

Or, you can go directly to the pictures at
http://rainbow.rmi.net/~jgardner/jags.htm

Thanks!

John Gardner
62 E type OTS

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #413

Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4)
id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Tue, 8 Oct 1996 21:12:42 +0200 (MET DST)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 21:12:42 +0200 (MET DST)
Message-Id: 199610081912.VAA29272@ekeberg.sn.no
X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f
From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #414
Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Precedence: bulk
X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest

jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 8 October 1996 Volume 02 : Number 414

Re: Raffle
re: Kirby’s last message
LLoyd’s strange messages…
XJ40 seat noise
NJCW : beernuts @ pretzels
62 E, oil pressure too high
JAG: Re: XJ220 engine
Re: 89 XJ40 re Xks Open House & Rally Re[2]: XJS V12 radiator flush XJ40 - Inexpensive center cap clean up Re: 89 XJ40
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #412
Re: XJ-S Spark Plug Wires
Re: XJ220 info
Window Lift Switches, good sub.
RE: XJ40 Oil leak Re: rear shocks
XJ-S front end suspension

From: rbatlan@marsweb.com (Rick Batlan)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 08:52:55 -0600
Subject: Re: Raffle

You can find information on the XK8 Raffle at:
http://www.ism.net/~globetech/foundation/raffle/rafflehome.html

A few weeks ago there was a post about an XK8 raffle.
I’ve lost the specifics and was wondering if anybody could steer me to it.

Jo-Ann Gross

From: David J Shield David_J_Shield�m.fm.intel.com@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil
Date: Mon, 07 Oct 96 19:12:00 PDT
Subject: re: Kirby’s last message

Why, yes David. You are right. Kirby is right. I do.

< Yeah, I looked at it twice, too. At first I thought you were
< talking to yourself.
<
< David

LLoyd

From: LLoyd 3030P@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 96 08:26:43 PDT
Subject: LLoyd’s strange messages…

Well, since my mailer has generated so much comment, guess I’ll send this
out to everyone. The only thing that could be worse would be if we started
argueing over beer, or trying to determine which Jag is the prettiest.
If I respond to a message, the message comes to you looking ‘normal’. But
if I want to send part of the message along with my responce, I use the
foreward command, delete out as much of the incoming message as is needed,
and then add my comments above and or below it. Apparently that message is
the one that is confusing to you. It genertates a much longer header file,
tracking the message back to the original sender, through me, and foreward.
But, to get to the important stuff, beer is good, a yellow car is the
fastest color, the “E” type is the prettiest, and my dad can beat your dad.

LLoyd

From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 96 9:06:52 PDT
Subject: XJ40 seat noise

The driver seat of my XJ40 seems to be getting a bit “loose”, so
when it goes over a bump it makes some noise. It’s a minor
problem, but annoying nevertheless. Can anyone offer some suggestions?

Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD

From: DavidZ333@aol.com
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 12:37:14 -0400
Subject: NJCW : beernuts @ pretzels

I almost hate beer, always have. I have encountered very large numbers of
ados who will argue with great vigor the various subtlties of one beer
against another. We are talking about 14-17 year old experts on all things
alcoholic; for many it is the core of their lives.

My point : I have always wondered if the attraction to beer would be there if
the stuff had no alcohol. Of those who say yes, I am skeptical. Of those
who say that they hunt because they enjoy the out of doors, I am skeptical.
Of those who say “It’s all relative”, I am skeptical. Of those who say
…

On the other hand, I am ecstatic over the taste of certain European cheeses.
Most of my fellow Wisconsinites will not get in the same room with them
while I can’t stand Wisconsin cheese.( I suspect that Wisconsin cheese is
much like Bull Frog Beer must be.) Pearls to Swine.

Ok, no pretzel content whatever either.

David “It’s dogged as does it.” - Charles Darwin

From: “Alastair Lauener” a.lauener@napier.ac.uk
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 96 17:08:00 gmt
Subject: 62 E, oil pressure too high

John Said

I have a problem with oil pressure on my 62 E type. Recently, after
replacing the instrument voltage regulator, I noticed the oil pressure gauge
was pegged at over 60 psi. I assumed I had wired the gauge incorrectly, and
drove it to work and back. When I got into it, the wiring looked ok, so
acouple of days ago I replaced the sender unit. No change.

John, sound like the gauge is earthed. You say that you changed the voltage
regulator, but if you moved the guiage in any way, it is very easy to earth the
gauge to the dash using the locating pegs. How do I know?

Alastair Lauener, 64 3.4 S-Type

From: “Alastair Lauener” a.lauener@napier.ac.uk
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 96 17:02:42 gmt
Subject: JAG: Re: XJ220 engine

Information on the XJ220 engine is available at
http://www.jagweb.com/jdht/xk8eng.html,
from the JDHT.

Alastair Lauener

From: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 96 10:04:15 PDT
Subject: Re: `89 XJ40

Just got a 1989 xj6(40) vanden plas. 39k miles, 10G US price.

Wow, that’s a great price. Those in Australia and Norway must be
extremely envious. How is the cosmetic condition? Any problems so far
with the car?

Sometimes I don’t understand the stunning depreciation on these
cars. Why would someone want to give away a low-mileage, top of the
line Jag for so little money?

Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD

From: ehuff@tuba.aix.calpoly.edu
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 10:13:45 -0700
Subject: re Xks Open House & Rally

After reading Ryan Border and David Shield’s posting re their experiences at
the XKs Unlimited open house and rally last weekend, I am led to wonder how
many more jag-lovers I failed to meet there. Unlike the above I only had to
drive my XK 120 the 5 miles from my house to XKs. (Those bugs on the wings
were only there for show.) Perhaps next year anyone who attends would like
to drop by my place for something a little stronger than the beer and soft
drinks that were served with the barbeque.

Perhaps I should add that after attending these show-rallies for something like
six to eight years, this year I actually won first prize which consisted of
a one hundred credit at XKs and a 3 day, 2 night stay at the San Luis Bay Inn.
Of course I’ll have no trouble finding a use for the former. However, I don’t
know what the heck I’m going to do with the latter.

See you next year.

Earl Huff
53 XK 120
85 XJS

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 13:14:27 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: XJS V12 radiator flush

This is a Mime message, which your current mail reader
may not understand. Parts of the message will appear as
text. To process the remainder, you will need to use a Mime
compatible mail reader. Contact your vendor for details.

–IMA.Boundary.673697448
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Description: cc:Mail note part

My '88 has no radiator drain, remote or otherwise.
Anyone earlier?

MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: XJS V12 radiator flush
Author: Patrick Siu patrick@idacom.hp.com at Internet
Date: 10/7/1996 10:47 AM

One point may be useful to add to Kirby’s help book (as Kirby suggested)
is to include when Jaguar remove the “remote control radiator drain plug”.
This plug is definitely not exist in my car. Does anyone know when the
change happened?

Thanks again for everyone’s help.

Patrick Siu
89 XJS V12 Conv

–IMA.Boundary.673697448–

From: Michael Powers/TEIR/Thomson Michael_Powers@teir.com
Date: 8 Oct 96 13:54:11
Subject: XJ40 - Inexpensive center cap clean up

Hi all:

My XJ6 has the standard aluminum pepperpot wheels with the plastic chrome-like
center caps.
Two of them had some serious pealing problems, revealing the lovely gray
plastic
base.

Well, up at my local home improvement center, they carry this chrome-like paint
called “Color Works by Krylon”. The stuff went on very cleanly, with no runs
or drips.
I didn’t even have to prime the plastic, and the caps look
brand new. Time will tell how the paint holds up, but right now (after several
weeks) they are looking
as good as new!

Check it out if you want to save some money over replacement.

Rgds,
Mike
/-----------------------------------------------------------------
| mpowers@teir.com
|
|
| On my block, a lot of people walk their dogs and I always see them
| walking along with their little poop bags. This, to me, is the lowest
| activity in human life. Following a dog with a little scooper.
| Waiting for him to go so you can walk down the street with
| it in your bag. If aliens are watching this through telescopes,
| they’re going to think the dogs are the leaders of the planet.
| If you see two life forms, one of them’s making a poop, the
| other one’s carrying it for him, who would you assume is in charge?
| -Jerry Seinfeld
*-------------------------------------------------------------------*/

From: rpeng�dev6.intel.com%SwRI08@swri.edu
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 19:58:07 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: `89 XJ40

Forwarded to: SMTP[Jag-LOVERS@SN.NO]
cc:
Comments by: PLacey@Petrol@SwRI08
Comments:

This is about the going rate for an XJ-40 in the U.S. I bought one for a
similar price in perfect condition. The depreciation is due to the
unbelieveable string of minor problems that the average person does not want
to deal with. Nothing that is not easily fixed to those of us that love the
cars, but enough to be a very severe newsence to the non DIY type person who
still wants to keep the car in good shape. So far I have managed to do
everything myself.

As a side issue, it is interesting how the volume of XJ-40 traffic on the
list is increasing so rapidly relative to the volume of other models. Must
be more of us XJ-40’ers joining up as the design gets older?

Paul Lacey, Texas

-------------------------- [Original Message] -------------------------

Just got a 1989 xj6(40) vanden plas. 39k miles, 10G US price.

Wow, that’s a great price. Those in Australia and Norway must be
extremely envious. How is the cosmetic condition? Any problems so far
with the car?

Sometimes I don’t understand the stunning depreciation on these
cars. Why would someone want to give away a low-mileage, top of the
line Jag for so little money?

Roger Peng (408)765-7863
Intel Corporation
Design Technology, Physical CAD

From: jdart@erols.com
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 1996 14:14:13 -0700
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #412

Hello, I am a relatively new subscriber to this list. I have a few (dated) comments about some of the items I
have seen on the mailings. To the person that wanted to buy a car that was no longer the original color: If
you like the color it is in now, buy it. If you don�t, you can paint it again to your preference. If you are
concerned about the value of the car since it is no longer original, you can speak with a professional
appraiser. My guess is that the condition of the car is far more important (from a price perspective) than the
original color. Look at the auction pages on the web. See much of anything that isn�t red? Think they were
all red to begin with? To the person that wanted to know how to troubleshoot a coil. I strongly recommend
that you DO NOT HOLD THE COIL WIRE UP TO A FUEL LINE AND CRANK THE ENGINE. I saw a fellow do this one time (OK
he had also disconnected the fuel line from the carbs) and the resultant fire destroyed the car. Enough
comments from the peanut gallery. I have a question about the proper placement of a US standards plate. I
have a 1968 E type roadster #1E107707. It is just coming off a ground up restoration. I have a small
aluminium plate about 24X76mm (15/16x3in) it is rounded at each end giving it an ovalish shape. The plate says

–1st line: �THIS VEHICLE COMPLIES� – 2nd line � WITH ALL APPLICABLE U.S.� – 3rd line: �FEDERAL SAFETY STDS.�
– 4th line: �EFFECTIVE JAN: 1st. 1968.� – 5th line (and in slightly smaller text): �JAGUAR CARS LTD. COVENTRY
ENG.� Know where this plate belongs? Everyone that I have talked to so far about the correct placement of this
plate has quoted a slightly different text. If anyone has a �68 imported into the U.S. ( I think this car came
in via Canada) that has a plate with the exact text, would you please send me details.
J.Dart, 1968 BRG (formerly midnight blue) ots.

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 14:24:57 -0005
Subject: Re: XJ-S Spark Plug Wires

Aaron:

Kirby,

I was poking around your website today and looked at the picture of your
engine. What sort of spark plug wires are you using? As you may
remember from earlier e-mails, I have had problems with arcing among
wires. I replaced the old set with a new Lucas set about 9 months ago,
but have the problem again.

As anyone who has my book will tell you, I don’t put a lot of value
on “original” parts – especially when it’s Lucas we’re talking
about. When I suspected my spark plug wires, I replaced them with
generic wires available at any auto parts store. I simply bought two
sets to get enough wires for a V-12.

You can get anything from a roll of wire and a package of connectors
all the way to completed sets, so I got a “semi-tailored” set – one
end of each wire has the spark plug connector attached, but you cut
the other end to length and attach the distributor cap connector
yourself. The wires on the V-12 are shorter than most, this allowed
me to provide the right length and not have lots of excess wire
laying around.

Another feature to look for is the angle of the spark plug connector.
Some are straight, some are 90 degree. What the V-12 needs is a
slight bend, so I selected a kit with connectors that are straight to
begin with but can be bent to whatever angle is needed. This allowed
me to provide DIFFERENT bends at different cylinders – working on
these plugs, you need all the help you can get!

Of course, silicone is a must.

There is also the choice between 7mm and 8mm wires. At the time, I
would have loved to install 8mm wires, since the Jaguar ignition
system is really hot. However, I couldn’t find an 8mm set that had
the type connectors to fit this distributor cap; the 8mm sets all fit
caps that the connectors look like the top half of a spark plug,
rather than holes. So I ended up with a 7mm set. Another option
would have been to fashion adaptors for the cap, possibly from an old
set of spark plugs. Maybe there are suitable 8mm sets available
today.

All aftermarket kits seem to be bright colors. I didn’t care,
although I do think it looks kinda neat.

The sets I ended up with were made by Auto-Tune and sold by AutoZone
as part number 2300. The two boxes undoubtedly still cost a bunch
less than a single Jaguar set. And since each set has enough wires
for a V-8, I got four plug wires and one coil wire to spare.

Ironically, my problem turned out not to be the wires, apparently the
original set was fine.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 14:24:58 -0005
Subject: Re: XJ220 info

Doug:

I dont know a whole lot off the top of my head (and I cant go dig out the old
magazines right now), but if was originally designed to have a 12 cyl based
on their IMSA GTP car’s engine. By production they had shortened the car (a
lot, I think about a foot or so) and changed to a twin turbo 6 cyl.

The order of this is backwards. Since the car was to be developed
by the racing group, they insisted that the turbo 6-cyl be used
instead of the normally-aspirated 12. The car shortened as a
result.

Of course, the change made it fall short of
it’s original design goal of 220MPH and it went 212 only…

In its first road test, it went 220. No reason to expect it not to,
since the turbo six was as powerful and considerably lighter than the
12.

That doesn’t alter the fact that, IMHO, the decision to go with the
turbo six was one of the worst decisions ever made by Jaguar. The
world is FULL of turbocharged screaming exoticars. The initial
promise of the XJ220 was to come out with an exoticar with a serious
engine, capable of 220 mph WITHOUT the need for turbocharging. After
a whole bunch of people had plunked down their deposit for a car that
hadn’t been developed yet, Jaguar ended up having difficulty getting
rid of them. And more importantly, a V-12 XJ220 would have done
wonders for sales of the XJ-S and XJ12, while the V6 didn’t do
anything for anybody.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: “Phil Patton” ppatton@ibm.net
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 96 13:40:23 -0500
Subject: Window Lift Switches, good sub.

You may not want to read this if you have never
had any trouble with your window and/or sunroof
switches. I have found a switch which is less
expensive, IMHO looks much better, and I am
positive will last much, much longer. The part is
GC number 35-3565 (green light) or 35-3570 (red
light). This part fits the exsisting hole
perfectly, and has a small, coloured illuminated
strip across it, making it easy to find in the
dark. It is rated at 20 amps @ 12 volts and is
(unlike the jag switch) completely sealed so that
dirt cannot contaminate the contacts. They sell
for US $10.92 each and should be available from
any decent size electronics parts house. I got
mine from Shields Electronic Supply in
Chattanooga. (423) 624-0071. The only modification
necessary to use this part is to cut off the plug
(on the wiring harness) and replace it with push
on lugs on each wire. If you don’t like the light
then just don’t connect it.

Phil

From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 1996 11:39:54 -0700
Subject: RE: XJ40 Oil leak Re: rear shocks

I’m willing to ship the kit parts to you one piece at a time.

At 10:16 PM 10/7/96 -0700, cobac@ix.netcom.com wrote:

At 08:12 PM 10/7/96 -0700, you wrote:

Also – any suggestions on aftermarket kits for updating XJ40 rear
suspension. The local Jag dealer wants $1100.00 CDN for the OEM conversion
kit. (About $800.00 US) Ouch

Mike Everatt
1987 1/2 XJ40

Mike,
I don’t know much about your other problems, but I can make a
susggestion on those rear shocks, from my previous experience with my '89
XJ40. I would VERY STRONGLY suggest that you buy the conversion kit
supplied by Jaguar. I have spent over $1000 US , on just trying to get my
car to ride beautifully again, and this was accomplished through the Jaguar
(Bilstein shocks) conversion kit. This kit includes everything: New shims,
spring seats, shocks, and most importantly NEW LONGER SPRINGS!
First, I spent a few hundred dollars on trying to fix the hydraulics, no
luck! Then I spent about $250 on the KYB conversion kit (it’s also offered
through Terry’s Jag parts) and tried to save myself money over the expensive
dealer kit. Little did I know that the KYB aftermarket kit rides HORRIBLY,
and most importantly the whole car sags in the back because the kit doesn’t
offer modified springs. Finally, I just got fed up with the cars horrible
ride, and ugly sagging profile. So, I sprang for the dealer conversion kit!
Now, I’m really happy, the car rides EXCELLENTLY and I can now watch other
XJ40’s bounce and sag, and I know I’ll never have that problem again! It’s
also perfectly level do to the new springs included with the kit.
$800 US for the kit seems pretty high, unless that includes
installation. I purchased my factory JAGUAR kit for around + - $450, and I
installed it myself with no trouble (I was used to it already because of
removing/installing the KYB’s a few times trying to correct the sagging).
The current issue of Hemmings I think has some places offering the kit for
about this price, if not a US dealer could probably ship it to you and save
you a few $$$.
Well, after all this grief of trying to save a few extra dollars, it
turned out I lost more money than I would have, and I also have a box full
of new KYB shocks/springs with about 200 miles on them, that no one wants
either. Save yourself some grief, and find the dealer kit somewhere that is
at a more appealing price. In my opinion the KYB kit is a rip off, and
since that occurance I will only use parts on my car that come straight from
Jaguar and are specifically manufactured by the companys suppliers.

Hope this is of some help!
Eric
cobac@ix.netcom.com
1989 XJ40 Vanden Plas

From: Aaron Burnett aaron.burnett@attws.com
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 12:14:19 -0700
Subject: XJ-S front end suspension

I plan to replace all the worn rubber parts in the front end of my '85
XJ-S this weekend and am looking for advice regarding replacement
bushings. My assumption is that, as with most Jaguar rubber parts,
original equipment is not the best option. Anyone had good experience
with aftermarket options?

All information is appreciated.

Aaron
'85 XJ-S

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #414

Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4)
id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Wed, 9 Oct 1996 03:40:53 +0200 (MET DST)
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 03:40:53 +0200 (MET DST)
Message-Id: 199610090140.DAA24724@ekeberg.sn.no
X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f
From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #415
Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Precedence: bulk
X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest

jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 9 October 1996 Volume 02 : Number 415

Re[2]: XK8 Traction Control
Re: 62 E, oil pressure too high
Re: XJ40 - Inexpensive center cap clean up
Most beautiful Jaguar, again
beer and other nonsense
Re: Re[2]: XK8 Traction Control
XJ6/SIII rear knocking advice needed
SS-100 current owner wanted
Aluminum polish research (no beer content)
XJ40 seat noise
Re: XJ6/SIII rear knocking advice needed
Re: XJ-S front end suspension
Re: V12 Chain Tensioner Tools
Re: XK8 / E-type Musings
Re: XJS Oil seals and gaskets.
Re: V12 Radiator drains
Re: Vacuum Advances
Re: E-type serial numbers
Jag Certificate

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 15:39:53 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: XK8 Traction Control

This is a Mime message, which your current mail reader
may not understand. Parts of the message will appear as
text. To process the remainder, you will need to use a Mime
compatible mail reader. Contact your vendor for details.

–IMA.Boundary.135408448
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Description: cc:Mail note part

I have to correct myself. The dealer told me what was in the cold package,
but now that I have more written information I notice that the block heater
is not listed as part of the package.

MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: XK8
Author: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell) at Internet
Date: 10/7/1996 10:34 AM

In the US, traction control is part of the optional “cold package” which
also included heated seats, block heater and headlamp washers.

I drove a convertible without traction control over the weekend. It had no
inclination to break loose. Judging on “seat of the pants” feel, it might
be a little down on low end torque compared to the XJR /XJ-12. My XJ-S has
more of a tendency to break the rear end loose, and it certainly isn’t any
tire burner.

MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: XK8
Author: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com at Internet
Date: 10/5/1996 10:17 AM

Luckily there is a series of racetrack type corners several miles from the
dealer. As I was hustling the car through them I noticed that it felt like
the car was steering from the rear. It seems that the rear suspension
bushings could be a little firmer to prevent the rear geometry changes that
are allowing this to happen. The XJR has the same rear suspension and
tires, the next chance I get I’ll have to test it through the same area.
The 94 XJ12 motor, pre OBDII, has the most power so far. The low end
torque and the raw feel can almost edge out the XK8 V8. I think that the
XK8 has full time traction control because it is very difficult to get the
tires to break loose at low speed. The XJR and the XJ12 have switchable
traction control and you have to be cautious with the throttle when you
have it turned off.

–IMA.Boundary.135408448–

From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 16:07:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: 62 E, oil pressure too high

John:

60 PSI is not dangerously high. My 4.2 E-Type fluctuates between 25-35 PSI
at idle, and 50-65 PSI at speed. The only way you would be blowing smoke at
this pressure is if your head gasket had given way. Things to check:

1.What is your RPM at idle? Should be about 600, give or take 100.

Higher speed>higher pressure.

2. Bypass may be stuck or obstructed.

3. Oil filer may be clogged.

4. Bad guage or sensor.

The PO of my car installed a mechanical guage. I will check the make
tonight, and E-mail you.

Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2

At 08:38 AM 10/8/96 MDT, you wrote:

I have a problem with oil pressure on my 62 E type. Recently, after
l
Is there a mechanical oil pressure gauge available with the correct thread
that I could put in to verify the pressure?

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 16:21:53 -0005
Subject: Re: XJ40 - Inexpensive center cap clean up

Mike:

My XJ6 has the standard aluminum pepperpot wheels with the plastic chrome-like
center caps.
Two of them had some serious pealing problems, revealing the lovely gray
plastic
base.

Well, up at my local home improvement center, they carry this chrome-like paint
called “Color Works by Krylon”. The stuff went on very cleanly, with no runs
or drips.

Here’s an experience: On my wife’s car (non-Jag), the center caps
were also plastic, but were cracking – the plastic itself, not just
the chrome. My solution: I went to an auto supply joint and got
four blank-off covers for 1-1/2" conduit knockouts, which means they
were 2" in diameter. Since these things must meet some electrical
code requirements, they must be metal – not plastic. They have a
ring of fingers on the back which can easily be bent a little to fit
whatever size opening near 2" is necessary.

The caps are made of cheap steel, and if left alone they would
probably turn into brown powder in a matter of days – and don’t look
particularly good while they’re new. However, I found that I could
easily make them look a LOT better by polishing them up with some
fine sandpaper – and then KEEP them looking good with a coating of
clear spray lacquer.

What looks good is of course a matter of taste. Since these wheels
are black painted alloy, the shiny steel center caps look great. If
that appearance is unacceptable, another option is to paint the same
color as the CAR – which, in some applications, looks really good,
giving an appearance of class. The paint doesn’t even have to match
that closely, since it never gets within a few inches of the
bodywork.

Nice thing: if I ever lose or damage a cap, a replacement is as close
as my nearest hardware store.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: Robert E Gibson rgibson@hawaii.edu
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 10:41:47 -1000
Subject: Most beautiful Jaguar, again

At the risk of beating a dead thread, the most beautiful Jaguar, I must
say that my personal taste ranks the Mark II first, the Mark IV next, and
my XJ6 S III third. My “personal taste” is mine only and IMHO there is
plenty of room for others. Jaguars of all varieties are rare in the
universe of automobiles in stirring the passion, even love, of their
owners and would be owners. A toast to all Jaguars. Cheers!
Robert Gibson
Honolulu '87 XJ6 VDP

From: Peter Carpenter 106257.3334@CompuServe.COM
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 16:59:22 -0400
Subject: beer and other nonsense

I reckon the list has gone too far now. Things were fine when I was at a
university address and logged on for unlimited periods for free. Now, I am
at home and have to pay phone calls to download messages. I do not think I
am getting great value any more chaps. A lot of it is - as Jim Isbell would
say - shit.

So thanks for the ride
& thanks for the help Alastair,

Signing off the list

Peter Carpenter
1967 420
UK.

PS Thanks Nick
PPS Jan - Pay for the list? Love to, keep the humour and get the Jag
content denser.

From: Patrick Siu patrick@idacom.hp.com
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 15:33:09 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Re: Re[2]: XK8 Traction Control

This message is in MIME format. The first part should be readable text,
while the remaining parts are likely unreadable without MIME-aware tools.
Send mail to mime@docserver.cac.washington.edu for more info.

–IMA.Boundary.135408448
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII
Content-ID: Pine.HPP.3.91.961008153204.19038T@jaguar.idacom.hp.com
Content-Description: cc:Mail note part

Hi Mike,

The block heater is included in the cold package for the Canadian version.

Patrick Siu
89 XJ2 V12 Conv

On Tue, 8 Oct 1996, Mike Cogswell wrote:

Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 15:39:53 -0500
From: Mike Cogswell M.Cogswell@zds.com
To: jag-lovers@sn.no, mneal@wco.com
Subject: Re[2]: XK8 Traction Control

I have to correct myself. The dealer told me what was in the cold package,
but now that I have more written information I notice that the block heater
is not listed as part of the package.

MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: XK8
Author: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell) at Internet
Date: 10/7/1996 10:34 AM

In the US, traction control is part of the optional “cold package” which
also included heated seats, block heater and headlamp washers.

I drove a convertible without traction control over the weekend. It had no
inclination to break loose. Judging on “seat of the pants” feel, it might
be a little down on low end torque compared to the XJR /XJ-12. My XJ-S has
more of a tendency to break the rear end loose, and it certainly isn’t any
tire burner.

MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: XK8
Author: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com at Internet
Date: 10/5/1996 10:17 AM

Luckily there is a series of racetrack type corners several miles from the
dealer. As I was hustling the car through them I noticed that it felt like
the car was steering from the rear. It seems that the rear suspension
bushings could be a little firmer to prevent the rear geometry changes that
are allowing this to happen. The XJR has the same rear suspension and
tires, the next chance I get I’ll have to test it through the same area.
The 94 XJ12 motor, pre OBDII, has the most power so far. The low end
torque and the raw feel can almost edge out the XK8 V8. I think that the
XK8 has full time traction control because it is very difficult to get the
tires to break loose at low speed. The XJR and the XJ12 have switchable
traction control and you have to be cautious with the throttle when you
have it turned off.

–IMA.Boundary.135408448–

From: “Peter Hamel (h)” pete-hamel@dial.pipex.com
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 1996 22:36:57 +0000
Subject: XJ6/SIII rear knocking advice needed

Can anyone give me advice on what the following symptoms might indicate?

Recently I have noticed that if I’m driving over slight bumps in the road that
there is a gentle, knocking, not very loud, from the rear of the car.
I thought maybe some of the bushes might be worn in the rear suspension, so I
tried holding onto one of the rear wheels at the top of the wheel, and rocking
it (into and out of the car, as opposed to along the direction of the car). If I
did this quite hard there was a considerable movement and knocking sound. If I
looked under the car along the driveshaft into the differential I could see that
the movement seemed to occur where the shaft goes into the diff. The same occurs
with either back wheel.

Does this indicate the diff has had it, or is it the bearings where the
driveshafts come out of the diff? If I am driving and put my foot onto ond off
the gas I’ll get a clunking from the diff, but there is no noise while driving
along steadily.

Do I need a new diff?

Thanks

Pete Hamel

From: hdrsons@iamerica.net (Hal Rogers)
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 1996 17:20:03 -0600
Subject: SS-100 current owner wanted

The recent discussion of SS100 has reminded me that my grandfather owned an
SS100 many years ago when he lived in England. I would like to locate the
current owner of the car if possible. If anyone can recommend a starting
point that would be helpful.

My grandfathers name is Harold Denny Rogers. Not sure of the years he owned
it but probably it was during the 40s or early 50s. He sold it to a friend
of his before moving to Africa from England. He was living near Liverpool in
a town called Widnes. I am hoping to find a picture with a license plate
number but haven’t yet.

Thanks in Advance,
Hal Rogers

Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
Import Auto Specialists
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax

Serving Auto Enthusiasts since 1959

From: LLoyd 3030P@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 96 15:54:50 PDT
Subject: Aluminum polish research (no beer content)

Thanks to several members who graciously furnished me with a magnitude of
ideas to polish my aluminum manifolds. I tried several things in ‘layers’
to get through the oxidation quickly, and these are my results.
First I used a wire brush on an electric drill to get through the thick oxida
tion. Although this works well, I got a bit too deep in a couple places and
left scratches. But works well if you are carefull.
Next, Chrome polish and a toothbrush, scrub it on and let it set a while.
Although it will not polish, it is a good tarnish remover and the toothbrush
gets into all the little corners.
For places still tarnished, use a piece of fine (00 or 000) steel wool and
a screwdriver. Now you are getting close.
Finally, Mothers mag and aluminum polish is recommended by the majority of
those who responded to my inquiery. Put it on with the toothbrush, scrubbing
it in good. Let it set a couple minutes. Polish it off with a clean cloth,
and you will have a nice shine.

Brought to you through the elboe greese of -LLoyd-

From: “Rennick, Kim (AS01)” KRennick@p03.as01.honeywell.com.au
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 96 08:06:00 EST
Subject: XJ40 seat noise

Roger Peng wrote:

The driver seat of my XJ40 seems to be getting a bit “loose”, so
when it goes over a bump it makes some noise. It’s a minor
problem, but annoying nevertheless. Can anyone offer some suggestions?

No solution to offer, other than to mention that the seat cushion can be
easily removed by undoing the single PH screw at the lower front of the
unit. The cushion can then be slipped out after disconnecting the seat belt
detector at the connector. You will then have a full view of and access to
the front seat mechanism - hopefully you will then be able to see where the
looseness is and correct it.

Kim Rennick
'88 Sovereign

From: “Robert Johnson, D.Sc.” bjomejag@sover.net
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 1996 19:51:07 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ6/SIII rear knocking advice needed

Peter Hamel (h) wrote:

Can anyone give me advice on what the following symptoms might indicate?

Recently I have noticed that if I’m driving over slight bumps in the road that
there is a gentle, knocking, not very loud, from the rear of the car.
I thought maybe some of the bushes might be worn in the rear suspension, so I
tried holding onto one of the rear wheels at the top of the wheel, and rocking
it (into and out of the car, as opposed to along the direction of the car). If I
did this quite hard there was a considerable movement and knocking sound. If I
looked under the car along the driveshaft into the differential I could see that
the movement seemed to occur where the shaft goes into the diff. The same occurs
with either back wheel.

Does this indicate the diff has had it, or is it the bearings where the
driveshafts come out of the diff? If I am driving and put my foot onto ond off
the gas I’ll get a clunking from the diff, but there is no noise while driving
along steadily.

Do I need a new diff?

Thanks

Pete Hamel

I believe more likely than the diff bearing, it would be the hub
bearing. Check to see if there is movement between the hub carrier and
wheel. This would indicate a failed bearing. Hub bearing sets are
reasonably priced and quite strait forward to install, unless the
spline has frozen to the axle.

Hope this helps.

Bob Johnson
Brattleboro, Vt.
Mk 1, XJ12L

From: “Robert Johnson, D.Sc.” bjomejag@sover.net
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 1996 20:29:46 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ-S front end suspension

Aaron Burnett wrote:

I plan to replace all the worn rubber parts in the front end of my '85
XJ-S this weekend and am looking for advice regarding replacement
bushings. My assumption is that, as with most Jaguar rubber parts,
original equipment is not the best option. Anyone had good experience
with aftermarket options?

All information is appreciated.

Aaron
'85 XJ-S

I have had no problems with OEM rubber parts. You should expect to
find some rusted sleeves between the bush bolts and bushings. The best
solution is big tools and some heat. The satisfaction resulting from
the quieter and smoother ride is worth while.

Bob Johnson,
Brattleboro, Vt.
XJ12L, XJS

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 9 Oct 96 11:40:45
Subject: Re: V12 Chain Tensioner Tools

I use a medium fine screwdriver myself, Kirby. I’ve also made up a suitable
hook for pulling the tensioner straight, out of some 1/4in steel rod. It’s
permanently linked to an old ring spanner (poor quality but good enough for
this) for leverage.

- Jan

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 9 Oct 96 11:56:03
Subject: Re: XK8 / E-type Musings

Ryan Border :

My take is… a mass produced XJ220 (industry leading technology,
race ready and proven performance, breathtaking styling), at… say $42,000.
No, not the full blown $250K XJ220, but a car for the masses that is to the
XJ220; what the E-type was to the D-type.
…
Just a thought: if the XK8 had a Diahatsu, Kia, or maybe
even Acura badge on it… what would we all think of it? Conversely would
it have mattered, at all, who built the original E-type?

Excellent points, and let’s have the V12 (Jaguar’s last racing engine!) in the
XJ220, even if it costs an extra $10k. Would you believe that when the XJ220
was launched, it was priced at AUD 2,000,000
(two million, USD 1,600,000) for the Australian market? I think they sold one.
Is there anything dumber than greed?

-Jan

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 9 Oct 96 12:04:17
Subject: Re: XJS Oil seals and gaskets.

viadata @ interramp.com (David Hurlston)

05/10/96 10:08
To: jag-lovers @ sn.no @ internet
cc:
Subject: Re: XJS Oil seals and gaskets.

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 4 Oct 96 16:09:02
Subject: Re: XJS Oil seals and gaskets.

If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it…

Aren’t you glad the airlines don’t follow that motto?

Do you? :3+)

-Jan

From: “mark (m.d.) roberts” markdr@nortel.ca
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 17:39:00 -0400
Subject: Re: V12 Radiator drains

is to include when Jaguar remove the “remote control radiator drain plug”.
This plug is definitely not exist in my car. Does anyone know when the
change happened?

Well, 87 has it and your 89 doesn’t. Anyone got an 88?

Our 1988 V12 VDP has no drain. Stewart’s (just stolen) 1986 V12 VDP
had no drain. Stewart’s 1985 XJ-S has the drain.

As a side note, the radiators with the drain have the slip-on and clamp
transmission oil cooler lines, while the no-drain ones have the threaded
connectors for the transmission cooler.

Regards, Mark Roberts Phone: (613) 763-2924
Ottawa, Ontario, CANADA Fax: (613) 763-3970
1988 VDP - SIII V12 email: markdr@nortel.ca
1963 3.8L E-Type Coupe - 16 years into a 3 year project

From: “mark (m.d.) roberts” markdr@nortel.ca
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 18:11:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Vacuum Advances

Lloyd wrote:

Sorry to clutter the list with this, but thought I’ld come here first.
I need a vaccuum advance for the distributer of a '71 4.2 “E” type. Anyone
got one or a lead? I know we got a couple of parts guys on the list.

Hal wrote:

The original Lucas 5442224 is no longer available. I definitely don’t have
any of them. However, this vac advance also fit some TR6s. I do know that
another Lucas part 54400201 will fit TR6. Maybe it will work on the E…

I write:

I got a new/rebuilt vacuum advance for my 3.8l E-type distributor, type
DMBZ6, from British Auto. They also had new/rebuilt ones for the 4.2l
distributor, 22D. I was about to get one of these for my spare 4.2l
engine’s distributor, until I actually checked it out, and it was
functioning fine. I think Welsh also has these new/rebuilt advances.

Regards, Mark Roberts Phone: (613) 763-2924
Ottawa, Ontario, CANADA Fax: (613) 763-3970
1988 VDP - SIII V12 email: markdr@nortel.ca
1963 3.8L E-Type Coupe - 16 years into a 3 year project

From: “mark (m.d.) roberts” markdr@nortel.ca
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 18:11:00 -0400
Subject: Re: E-type serial numbers

Lloyd:

The “2R13539” should be your vehicle number, ie serial number.
Why the sill plate and picture frame have a “P” in front of it
is beyond my knowledge…3.8 E-Type mainly. The body number
will be located elsewhere on the car, like above the fuel
bowl in the engine compartment, or (as in my car) on the
left inner fender above the gas tank and under the mohair
interior fender covering…your covering will be vinyle (sp).
The body number should be on a small aluminum tag.

Mark D. Roberts Mail-Stop CRK-047
Northern Telecom Phone ESN 393-2924
Dept. 5S85 Fax: ESN 393-3970
Custom Technology Access email:markdr@nortel.ca

From: mcdowellwil@hardy.texsci.edu
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 21:41:37 -0400
Subject: Jag Certificate

I would again like to ask if anyone has purchased a certificate from
Jaguar. They offer it through North America or Brown’s Lane. It’s about
$40. I was curious as to what it said or if it was worth the money. Feel
free to respond to me privately. TIA, Bill

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #415

Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4)
id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Wed, 9 Oct 1996 09:19:48 +0200 (MET DST)
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 09:19:48 +0200 (MET DST)
Message-Id: 199610090719.JAA05364@ekeberg.sn.no
X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f
From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #416
Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Precedence: bulk
Status: O
X-Status:
X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest

jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 9 October 1996 Volume 02 : Number 416

Re: XJ40 Oil leak
Front end alignment
XJ6 series III headlight loss
Re: Beer and Jaguars
Re: Little things not in the book (XJS V-12)
Re: XJ40 Oil leak
Fuel Tank Sealers
S-Type front end rebuild
Re: XJ6/SIII rear knocking advice needed
Jack Stands for an E-Type
Re: Front end alignment
Re: Fuel Tank Sealers
xj220
XK8/E-Type
Missed opportunities at XKU open house (jag-lovers content)
Re: Fuel Tank Sealers
re: XKU open house and SI/III E htbrid
XK8 in Japan
Re: Front end alignment - solution

From: “Robert Johnson, D.Sc.” bjomejag@sover.net
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 1996 21:43:02 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ40 Oil leak

Gerald M Foster wrote:

Sorry for wasting bandwidth on this one as I know its been covered many
times. But, I never thought my Jag would ever leak. Its been leak
free til now! Am I a dreamer or what? Just above the distributor at
the base of the head is a fairly good leak. I have the factory books.
However, what is the most economical way to stop it without major
surgery?
                        Gerald

I believe this is the cam cover gasket. I have had a break on this
corner result in large volumn leakage. Fortunately, it is a quick fix.

Bob Johnson,
Brattleboro, Vt.
XJ40, XJ50

From: scoleman@pcl.net (Steve Coleman)
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 1996 20:56:27 -0500
Subject: Front end alignment

Today I decided to arrange to have my front end aligned (1987 XJ6) as
the car has developed a tendency to veer slightly to the right. I
figured this ought to be a “Mr Goodwrench” level task, but I ran into a
brick wall of resistance at the two local shops I tried, the nearest
Jaguar shop being sixty miles away. The first just refused to consider
it and gave no explanation. At the second, I was told that the
alignment had to be done with both gas tanks full and the passenger
compartment loaded with sandbags. They referred me to a mechanic in
town who had the “special equipment” needed to do the job, but I was
pretty bewildered by this point and did not pursue it further. I guess
I’ll need to take it to the Jag shop, but is this really that
complicated a job? Or are these guys just FOS?

Steve Coleman, Gadsden, AL
1987 XJ6 x2

From: bsawyer@mint.net (Bruce Sawyer)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 22:11:23 -0400
Subject: XJ6 series III headlight loss

This evening on the way home from work I tried to switch on the high beams.
However, all I managed to do was turn off all the head lights. By keeping
pressure on the switch the high beams work. But let go and only the
parking lights remain. Any ideas of where to start? Thanks for any help
you can provide.

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 9 Oct 96 13:16:18
Subject: Re: Beer and Jaguars

Jim Isbell :

I find Burbon and good wine to be very tasty, but beer is bitter and salty.

Try Australian beer, mate…

-Jan

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 9 Oct 96 13:12:38
Subject: Re: Little things not in the book (XJS V-12)

AFAIK, Jim, there’s just the rubber bung - and yours has gone hard and brittle
with age. When I pulled my last two ones out, they were half-hard, and the
current one in the coupe is getting there.

You might be able to slip a sheet of aluminium or something in behind the plug
(yes, after pulling the cam cover) to stop rubbish falling in.

On the other hand, whatever does fall in won’t do any harm - it’s too soft to damage any steel parts, there’s no narrow oil drain passage to block and the strainer on the oil pump suction will make sure the fragments stay in the sump until the next oil change. They won’t be thrown around by the crankshaft either, because it’s fully baffled. Jan From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 21:57:53 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: XJ40 Oil leak Randy, RE: XJ40 Head Gasket leak Has Jag updated the gasket to prevent this problem recurring? Is the problem due to poor gasket design, head design or possible head warping? Any ideas – I don’t want to be re-doing head gaskets for a relatively minor leak. This sort of problem is not limited to the AJ6 engine. Many makers went through the same sort of thing in the 80’s, especially those using aluminum head and iron block. Gasket technology has progressed. The new gaskets are improved. However, I have no conrete proof that the problem is fully cured, as I have not yet had anyone put 100K+ miles on a new gasket. Also – any suggestions on aftermarket kits for updating XJ40 rear suspension. The local Jag dealer wants $1100.00 CDN for the OEM conversion kit. (About $800.00 US) Ouch A proper kit comes with new shocks, shims, hardware, and springs. Beware the cheapy kits. I have experence with the KYB conversion. It rides poorly, sits low (requiring several attempts at shimming), and the flimsy plastic filler piece they include fails quickly. The kit I stock comes with Boge shocks, factory springs, perches, shims, and hardware. It’s in the $600 US range. Mike Everatt 1987 1/2 XJ40 Randy K. Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net From: MDavid1566@aol.com Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 22:27:12 -0400 Subject: Fuel Tank Sealers I have seen a few postings about using fuel tank sealants to solve pinhole leaks. My question is, can this be done with the tank still in the car? How does one achieve sloshing the sealant fluid around the inside of the tank? And there seemed to be a split in the general consensus on whether this type of product really works…any feedback from satisfied users? Thanks for the info…sorry I have no opinions on the beer vs. burbon debate:-} David Q. 1971 XJ S1 From: ROLindsay@aol.com Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 23:22:51 -0400 Subject: S-Type front end rebuild Hi Gang. I have decided to complete the rebuild of the “S” Type front end that I started a few months ago. I did the easy bits like new tie rods and sway bar rubber bushings as well as a general clean-up and degreasing of the entire mess. It made such a difference in the handling, even if the steering is a little vague, that I must continue. As for the steering, I discovered that the lower steering column bushing is MISSING allowing quite a bit movement that is no doubt adding to the vagueness. As I have to pull the steering shaft to replace the bushing, why not do it all. I plan to do the work in steps. That is, scrub down and degrease everything first. I just hate working on grimey things when it is avoidable. I will remover the dampers and springs with the assembly still on the car. After that I will decide if the entire unit needs to come out to replace the rubber shims at the fulcrums of the A arms. Any experienced advice here is appreciated. The E-type was completely different… Having gone this far I may as well replace the brake pads. The rotors, hoses, pistons and seals are fine. Anyway, its nice to be working on the Jag again. As many of you know, two pulls on the spanner and all of the work-day’s problems melt away… Regards, Rick Lindsay '66 Jaguar 3.8 “S” Type '89 Mercedes 420 SEL '79 Dino 308 GT/4 (in the spring, maybe…) From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au Date: 9 Oct 96 14:52:58 Subject: Re: XJ6/SIII rear knocking advice needed Peter Hamel : If I looked under the car along the driveshaft into the differential I could see that the movement seemed to occur where the shaft goes into the diff. That’s your diff output shaft bearings, all right. They’re subject to much more stress than the rest of the diff, and it’s very likely that all you need to do is replace the bearings and seals. This is not difficult, but you’ll need to take the rear subframe off your car. You can do it from underneath, but that probably takes longer because of the difficulty in getting the brake calipers off and back on. Besides, taking out and dismantling the complete rear suspension gives you a great opportunity to check everything. You need two good stands and a small garage jack, as well as a friend to stabilise the subframe as you move it down and up (and help you lift it to the workbench; that sucker is heavy). To make the job a lot easier, take the spring/shock units out first and refit them last. You’ll need to shift the subframe in two lifts, as the stroke of the jack won’t be long enough. I use a 5" thick wooden block on the jack and rest the unit on two cement blocks halfway up. Jan From: rrichardson@eurekanet.com (Robert J. Richardson) Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 00:23:06 -0500 Subject: Jack Stands for an E-Type Robert Abascal in his 10/7 posting advised me to consider purchasing jack stands and a floor jack for use now to access the rear brake bleed nipples by removing the forward coil springs and shocks. I have metal ramps, but he was correct in saying that the suspension must be unsprung re weight or the springs and shocks can’t be removed. It’s no small investment, I agree, but he said the units would more than pay for themselves in the event major brake work is required and for regular maintenance of under-body units and parts. He also said to get the tallest jack stands I could find. Imparts, primarily a BMW parts house, has a pair of 6-ton jack stands that have a maximum lifting height of 25 inches. My questions are 1) will 25 inches maximum height give me elbow room under my E-Type and 2) is the price of $48 per pair a competitive price? Should I invest in two pair to have a level car platform? Also, what can I be expected to pay for a floor jack and does anyone on the list have this information plus the source for such a jack? I’m on hold now waiting the return of my newly resleeved master cylinders and am hoping to get the bleed job, etc. completed before freezing weather sets in (unheated and small built-on garage). From: rrichardson@eurekanet.com (Robert J. Richardson) Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 00:30:33 -0500 Subject: Re: Front end alignment Today I decided to arrange to have my front end aligned (1987 XJ6) as the car has developed a tendency to veer slightly to the right. I figured this ought to be a “Mr Goodwrench” level task, but I ran into a brick wall of resistance at the two local shops I tried, the nearest Jaguar shop being sixty miles away. The first just refused to consider it and gave no explanation. At the second, I was told that the alignment had to be done with both gas tanks full and the passenger compartment loaded with sandbags. They referred me to a mechanic in town who had the “special equipment” needed to do the job, but I was pretty bewildered by this point and did not pursue it further. I guess I’ll need to take it to the Jag shop, but is this really that complicated a job? Or are these guys just FOS? Steve Coleman, Gadsden, AL 1987 XJ6 x2 Join my club! I’ve been getting the same resistance here in Athens, Ohio. No one wants to work on Jags. Even the mechanic I just located who worked on my E-Type in the 1960s failed to follow through on my request for brake work. So I’ve ended up doing the brake work myself. Alignment is another question. You do need special tools and experience to obtain a proper allignment. Good luck. From: Frank Perrick frankp@mscnet.net Date: Wed, 09 Oct 1996 00:51:10 -0400 Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Sealers MDavid1566@aol.com wrote:

I have seen a few postings about using fuel tank sealants to solve pinhole
leaks. My question is, can this be done with the tank still in the car? How
does one achieve sloshing the sealant fluid around the inside of the tank?

And there seemed to be a split in the general consensus on whether this type
of product really works…any feedback from satisfied users?

Thanks for the info…sorry I have no opinions on the beer vs. burbon
debate:-}

–David Q.
1971 XJ S1

I think I started this string by askong about the availabilty of this
product. I did not use the liquid sealer for two reasons 1) lack of
availabilty ( I needed it on my day off) 2) I didn’t want to risk
messing up my sending unit or chance breaking it trying to pull it out.
So I spent the majority of the day sanding to bare metal spraying on
Extend (A rust converter) and epoxying the area with a thin layer of
marine tex ( a marine epoxy $20.00 for 2 oz’s, Dad had some, I would
never pay that much for epoxy) I forced it into the pepper holes with a
spork ( a plastic spoon/fork available at Kentucky fried chicken cost:
$2.99 comes with nice carring case and two pieces of chicken) After that
set up I primered it,then sprayed it with under coating gucky stuff,
looks like tar but hides any uneveness and IMHO provides more padding
between the tank and floor. Oh by the way the tank has to come out
completely, much easier the third time around. When reinstalling shop
vac and wipe the tank and floor with a wet rag to remove any sand that
could vibrate its way into another hole. O.k. a simple thing made long
but it doesnt leak and if you have a source for marine tex it don’t cost
much. Frank P. 1985 XJS (IMHO tm Kirby Palm)
P.S. That fuel tank repair epoxy that twists off and you knead in your
hand is a waste of $2.00. You might as well rub a bar of soap on the
leak !!( Bar of soap was suggested by my Dad to stop minor fuel leaks,
Still havent Tried it.)

From: Licensed jshuck25@mailhost.cinet.co.cn
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 12:30:26 ±800
Subject: xj220

someone was going to do a story in Jaguar World about the warehouse full =
of XJ220’s. Has it been done yet?? I’m in china and don’t get Jag =
World on a regular basis. Also, I can buy the large (probably 1/15 =
scale) models of the xj220 here for about $135 USD. Is that too much? =
John Shuck, Beijing…

From: bill@wmspear.com (Bill Spear)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 1996 22:32:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: XK8/E-Type

Had occasion to be driving the E-Type roadster around and ran accross an
open XK8 parked on the street in Carmel Valley, CA. so it was interesting
to pull along side and give a visual comparison. The most striking thing is
how much lower one is in the E, although the length seemed about the same.
We were positively looking up to the top of the door of the 8 (although it
was probably only a few inches). When I first caught sight of an 8 driving
around the day before at an intermediate distance I thought it was a Miata,
but on second take it seems slightly bigger and a little more robust, so I
gave chase for a while to get a visual impression but lost it.

One is tempted in the abstract to compare the two, but in the flesh it is
obvious that there is no real way to compare the cars as they are so
different. Manufacturing techniques, background, personnel, history,
market, and so on are all radically changed. The 8 is a thoroughly modern
car while the E has in the last ten years or so slipped into the antique
category. It’s spartan nature, spindly wire wheels and skinny tires, lack
of amenities (like head lights that work) and other idiosyncracies would
just not be acceptable today and few 8 customers would choose to by an E.
(However, it might be a question whether for the same money one could buy
either an XK8 OR an E-type, a XK150 AND a XK120, and maybe throw in a tatty
XJ-6 for good measure!) By the same token the 8 is a modern car and
seems to suffer from, je ne se quoi; a lack of soul for want of a better
term. From a quartering frontal angle the car looks it’s best, but
otherwise it looks sort or undifferentiated from a number of other similar
cars. It remains to be seen what will make this a Jaguar and not just an
other appliance or transportation unit. Certainly it does not come off as
the Ferrari for the common man that the XK series did, so, it will have to
make it’s reputation on the road. And good luck to it too. Bill Spear

Bill Spear
227 7th Street
Juneau, Alaska 99801
907/586-2209 v
907/586-6858 f
bill@wmspear.com

The world’s most wonderful pins…
http://www.carmelnet.com/spearpins

Play the accordian, go to jail. That’s the law.

From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 96 22:42:00 PDT
Subject: Missed opportunities at XKU open house (jag-lovers content)

 Earl,
 
 I'll gladly visit you next year.  Keep the room at the San Luis Bay 
 Inn in case I shouldn't drive home after visiting you <g>.  
 Honestly, I nearly went and had jag-lovers T-shirts made up for my 
 kids and myself so as to identify us to the computer-savvy amongst 
 the group.  Wish I had.
 
 David
 
 Earl sayeth:
 
 >After reading Ryan Border and David Shield's posting re their 
 >experiences at the XKs Unlimited open house and rally last 
 >weekend, I am led to wonder how many more jag-lovers I failed to 
 >meet there.  ...snip...  Perhaps next year anyone who attends 
 >would like to drop by my place for something a little stronger 
 >than the beer and soft drinks that were served with the barbeque.
 >...snip... this year I actually won first prize which consisted of
 >a one hundred credit at XKs and a 3 day, 2 night stay at the San 
 >Luis Bay Inn. Of course I'll have no trouble finding a use for the 
 >former.  However, I don't know what the heck I'm going to do with 
 >the latter.  See you next year.
 >Earl Huff
 >53 XK 120
 >85 XJS

From: nbx@atom.ansto.gov.au (Ned Blagojevic)
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 16:15:31 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Sealers

MDavid1566@aol.com wrote:

I have seen a few postings about using fuel tank sealants to solve pinhole
leaks. My question is, can this be done with the tank still in the car? How
does one achieve sloshing the sealant fluid around the inside of the tank?
…
Frank wrote:
P.S. That fuel tank repair epoxy that twists off and you knead in your
hand is a waste of $2.00. You might as well rub a bar of soap on the
leak !!( Bar of soap was suggested by my Dad to stop minor fuel leaks,
Still havent Tried it.)

I had more luck with the epoxy that you knead. However, first I cleaned the
area to metal, then used a self tapping screw (short) and screwed it into
the tank through the pin hole before I used the epoxy (yes it makes a bigger
hole and this was not on a Jag tank so I experimented). I did not think
that it would work but it has held for over two years. Looked at it the
other day, it looks strong and very hard to touch: don’t think that it will
leak again. I fixed two holes on the same tank with success.

Ned

'61 Mk2

Ned Blagojevic

Environmental Science Division
Australian Nuclear Science Organisation
PMB 1 Menai, NSW 2234
Australia

email: nbx@ansto.gov.au
phone (w)int 61-2-717-3660
fax int 61-2-717-9260

From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Tue, 08 Oct 96 23:13:00 PDT
Subject: re: XKU open house and SI/III E htbrid

 The last mention I saw in XKU's Coventry Quarterly, they had taken 
 the asking price down to $65K (~2 years ago).  I seriously thought 
 (for about a femtosecond) of dumping enough assets to buy it.  I 
 guess they've sold it.  Anyone here own it?
 
 David
 
 >> I drove to the XK's Unlimited open house this weekend...
 
 >Did you by chance see the SWB V12 OTS (S1/S3) that they have 
 >pictured in their catalog? I would love to see that car.
 
 >Mark

From: FM7M-HNJY@j.asahi-net.or.jp
Date: 9 Oct 96 15:36:54 JST
Subject: XK8 in Japan

For what it’s worth. The XK8 will be offered in Japan from November 1.
The low end model (which will have 18" tires, wood interiors and the
5 speed automatic transmission) will be put on the market at
Yen 8,880,000, which at today’s exchange rate translates to about US$80,000.
If you consider the extent of homologation that the car went through to beat
our environment hurdle, and other such “non tariff barriers,” they’ve priced
it pretty competitively.

Regards
Makoto Honjo

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 9 Oct 96 18:17:29
Subject: Re: Front end alignment - solution

The Repair Operations Manual specifies using (simple) tools to lock the
suspension at half height for wheel alignment or, in the absence of such tools,
loading the car to “average” condition. However, this assumes that the
suspension has totally correct springs and sits at the specified height - a
condition I’ve never come across in any Jag older than 10 years (I haven’t
worked on any newer ones…).

The reality is that every car sits at its own height, depending on how “tired”
the springs are. The reality is also that the ride height changes all but
imperceptibly if you take on a passenger; I have decided that the best
condition for checking and adjusting wheel alignment is with nearly full tanks
and the driver on board. I take the car to the local tyre sales place and pay
them $A 30 to measure (not adjust) the wheel alignment (front and rear) in that
condition.

The reason for telling them not to adjust the alignment is a) they won’t be
tempted to fudge if it’s “near enough” and b) their settings catalogue has
wildly incorrect values. Once you know the measured angles, adjustment is very
simple. Camber (front and rear) and caster is adjusted by adding/removing or
moving shims, and the manual specifies how much difference each shim makes.

The simple method up front involves jackling up the car and taking the front
wheel off, then either taking the spring load with a garage jack under the
outer ball joint or spring, or lowering the same part on to a stack of bricks.
This takes the transverse load off the upper ball joint and wishbone, so you
can move the shims as you please.

The rear is a little more work, as you need to jack up the whole rear end and
put it on stands, then crawl under and remove/add shims between each inner
U-joint and the brake disk.

Once your camber and caster are correct as specified in the manual for your
model, adjust the toe-in by turning the tie rods (I use a ViseGrip, and an
open-ender for the lock nut), and equalise the adjustment nicely so the
steering wheel sits straight. Again, check your manual for the correct toe in.
On the series 2 V12 with fuel injection (which is what I’ve got) it’s easy as can be; the toe-in should be zero plus minus a whisker. Since I have the same wheel size front and rear and the track is the same, I simply aim along the wheels at hub height and adjust until front and rear lines up perfectly on both sides. I’ve found by experience that error on the IN side is better than on the OUT side (harder cornering without tyre squeal). Jan “Gum Tree Garage” 77 XJ12C 78 XJ12L End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #416 ******************************** Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4) id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Wed, 9 Oct 1996 15:57:12 +0200 (MET DST) Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 15:57:12 +0200 (MET DST) Message-Id: 199610091357.PAA21734@ekeberg.sn.no X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #417 Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Precedence: bulk X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 9 October 1996 Volume 02 : Number 417 Re: Front end alignment - check RE: 62 E, oil pressure too high SIII-85 DVP Scratching sound from the rear brakes Newbie Bushings (Was XJS Front end suspension) MK II restoration update re: S-Type front end rebuild re: SI/III E htbrid Re: TO all XJS owners… Re: XJ6/SIII rear knocking advice needed Re: V12 Radiator drains Re: XJ6 series III headlight loss Re: Fuel Tank Sealers Re: Front end alignment Re: SIII-85 DVP Scratching sound from the rear brakes Re: XJ40 - Inexpensive center cap clean up Most beautiful Jaguar Re: XJ-S Spark Plug Wires Re: XJ6/SIII rear knocking advice needed From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au Date: 9 Oct 96 18:29:11 Subject: Re: Front end alignment - check Steve Coleman : …as the car has developed a tendency to veer slightly to the right. I’ve just finished a post on doing your own wheel alignment, but I forgot to mention that your symptom may have two other causes. A malfunction in the power steering can force it off the centre position; this tends to be fairly strong. A binding brake caliper can also cause pulling to the side; this is simply dirt that prevents the puck from retracting properly. One way to identify this is to brake moderately; if the car then goes straight, your brake calipers need a cleanup. Another way is to drive a few miles at speed without braking, then roll to a stop. If one brake disk is warm and the other cold, that’s it. This fault also tends to go away by itself after a week or two, especially if you do some really hard braking. If the pulling is indeed due to wheel alignment having gone off, you have to find out why it’s gone off - most likely, a bushing has given up or a wheel bearing has given notice. The Jag front suspension is immensely strong and is not likely to be thrown out of kilter by a pothole. I’ve gone across the corner of a kerb at about 50 km/h (30 mph), which had absolutely no effect apart from some rather nasty bruising of the tyre and raising my blood pressure to about 400/300. Jan From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 09:38 +0100 Subject: RE: 62 E, oil pressure too high Hello, yes, I reckon that your bypass valve is stuck. The oil pressure gauge is not=20= fed through the voltage stabalizer as the system is self regulating. If the=20= oil filter is clogged the pressure indication should be lower as it is=20 measured after the filter. I once had a short in the oil sender when there=20 was pressure, but you have already changed it. If the pressure is too high=20 you risk busting seals in the oilways, the smoke may come from too much oil=20= spray on the valve gear. Frans. I have a problem with oil pressure on my 62 E type. Recently, after replacing the instrument voltage regulator, I noticed the oil pressure=20 gauge was pegged at over 60 psi. I assumed I had wired the gauge incorrectly,=20 and drove it to work and back. When I got into it, the wiring looked ok, so a couple of days ago I replaced the sender unit. No change. I’m starting to believe that the pressure is real. The gauge reads zero with the ignitions on, but not running. Within a few seconds of starting the engine, the gauge is maxed out (over 60 psi). I’ve also noticed that now I am blowing smoke on acceleration (much more than normal). I assume this could be a result of the pressure being to high. This seemed to have all come on very suddenly. I’m afraid to drive the=20 car until I get this resolved. I’m going to change the oil and filter tonight in case the filter is clogged. Could the bypass valve cause this? John Gardner 62 E type OTS =20 From: Roger Hartonen etohart@eto.ericsson.se Date: Wed, 09 Oct 1996 08:57:39 +0000 Subject: SIII-85 DVP Scratching sound from the rear brakes Hi, I have some strange noises comming from the area around the rear brakes. It’s a scratching sound, like if the brake pads were still on the disc from time to time. Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4) id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Wed, 9 Oct 1996 22:39:46 +0200 (MET DST) Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 22:39:46 +0200 (MET DST) Message-Id: 199610092039.WAA10980@ekeberg.sn.no X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #418 Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Precedence: bulk X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 9 October 1996 Volume 02 : Number 418 Re: XJS V12 radiator flush - elimination of drain tap Re: xj220 US Floor Jack Price & Question about 1 person brake bleeding Leather Interior Re: Beer and Jaguars Jaguar certification Re: S-Type front end rebuild re: S-Type front end rebuild re: 1 person brake bleeding Re: Leather Interior H&E Convertible Fuel System [Fwd: Returned mail: User unknown] XJ40 - Oil Change XJ40 rear shock conversion Re[2]: 1 person brake bleeding (ride height: long) From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk Date: Wed, 09 Oct 1996 12:41:32 GMT Subject: Re: XJS V12 radiator flush - elimination of drain tap In message 199610071851.OAA02641@gemini.aero.odu.edu Thomas Alberts writes: Does anyone know when the change happened? Well, 87 has it and your 89 doesn’t. Anyone got an 88? I do. Haven’t got a drain tap. Regards, Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk From: “Lee Walden” lwalden@ebmud.com Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 08:40:27 -0700 Subject: Re: xj220 John wrote:

Also, I can buy the large (probably 1/15 scale) models of the xj220 here
for >about $135 USD. Is that too much? John Shuck, Beijing…

I’m not sure of the scale, but I just bought the Majisto (?) metal model of
the XJ-220 in a very nice metallic BRG for $9.00 USD at the local warehouse
store. The car comes on a plastic base which is about 10" long by 6" wide.
The hood (bonnett) and engine deck lids open. The doors open. The seat
backs “recline” the steering wheel turns the front wheels, the wheels roll,
and the wheel can move up and down too. The engine is the V-12. Car is
RHD. They have other models available including the XKE. Lee

From: “Himes,John W.” jwh@mime.dw.lucent.com
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 96 10:01:00 PDT
Subject: US Floor Jack Price & Question about 1 person brake bleeding

My local Sams Club ( Denver, Co, USA ) has a 3 ton floor jack for $60. ( I
am happy with this one ) They currently do not have jack stands. If I
remember when I go to some chain auto parts stores tonight I will look at
jack stand prices.

Other then the one person with the “EZ Bleed” kit in the UK that attaches to
the spare tire for pressure & a large resivoir of fluid ( can’t seem to find
one like that ), has anyone used the one person type that fits a hose over
the bleed nipple into a jar of fluid with any success ?

I am hoping that this is all I need to do. Yesterday the brakes were a
little mushy, but then came back. This morning the petal went all the way
to the floor. There was enough breaking power to hold the car in place with
the car in gear, but that is about it. Just glad I have a 2nd car. ( but
its brakes need some work too. )

John Himes
88 XJ-S 98K Miles

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 12:01:04 -0005
Subject: Leather Interior

Chad Bolles:

Yes the entire interior should be leather.

Actually, I’m not sure ANY of them are entirely leather. On mine,
many of the parts of the seat that don’t touch occupants are vinyl.
It’s my understanding that most – if not all – of the cars are this
way.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: Phil Andrews andrews@psc.edu
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 12:10:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Beer and Jaguars

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 1996 14:12:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Beer & Jaguars (some Jag content)

If you can point me to a beer that is sweet or at least not bitter or salty
I will gladly try it.

When in England I drink Cider but that is as close as I will get to beer.
I have tried Shandy which is lemonade and beer half and half and it is
almost palatable.

If you’re visiting the Jaguar plant, there is an extremely nice little
pub called the Rainbow in Allesley Village within a couple of miles of
Brown’s Lane. It is very rare in actually brewing its own beer
and I would highly recommend a try.

-Phil Andrews

From: BSherw@aol.com
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 12:12:21 -0400
Subject: Jaguar certification

mcdowellwil@hardy.texsci.edu wrote:

I would again like to ask if anyone has purchased a certificate from
Jaguar. They offer it through North America or Brown’s Lane. It’s about
$40. I was curious as to what it said or if it was worth the money.

I recently sent for a certificate for my '84 XJ-S from JCNA, trying to
confirm
that several pieces of optional equipment were factory or TWR options.
1. You have to send them all the eng/trans/body/VIN numbers- they will
“verify” them (?)
2. Took six weeks to receive reply
3. Certificate does not say anything about optional equipment.
Doesn’t even say
what dealer initially sold the car.

Unless you have a collector’s class early car (XK,etc.), save your money for
parts.
Brian “a fool and his money are soon parted” Sherwood
'85 XJ-6
'84 XJ-S

From: ejt@wg.icl.co.uk (Ted Trim)
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 96 17:21:00 BST
Subject: Re: S-Type front end rebuild

Alastair Lauener replied to Rick Lindsay:

The lower steering column bush is not the same as the upper one. Watch, as alot
of places sell a pair of bushes (which were the same as the upper), I got a
pair, and ended up using the old ones again.

On my 1966 Mk2 I also retained the old “worn” bushes as they fitted better than the new ones. There is a locating piece at the bottom of the column, which if worn, can allow up and down movement of the inner column in relation to the outer. A bitch to find a replacement. Easily obtainable from SC Jaguar in the UK. There are two thicknesses available, differing by .002" and one is about twice the price of the other. Since the old one had worn by something like .050" without causing any problems, I just fitted the cheaper one . Note that this locating piece is only fitted on later columns (on Mk2s anyway) - dunno the date off hand, but there was a change! Cheers, Ted (currently replacing connectors and refitting the fascia!) ejt@wg.icl.co.uk From: Ryan Border rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 09:51:43 -0700 Subject: re: S-Type front end rebuild I will remover the dampers and springs with the assembly still on the car. After that I will decide if the entire unit needs to come out to replace the rubber shims at the fulcrums of the A arms. Any experienced advice here is appreciated. My suggestion is to just pull it. It’s much easier to work on the spring retaining plate bolts with the unit flipped upside down in front of you than laying on your back under the car. It’s only… 13 bolts: 4 at front suspension mounts 2 long carriage bolts at rear mounts (if somebody put these in backwards while the engine was out, you may have to undo the 4 nuts holding the mounts to the cross-member instead) 2 brake hose fittings (take the hoses out with the cross-member) 4 bolts where the sway-bar is mounted to the chassis 1 bolt connecting lower steering column to steering box… make sure you remove this bolt, don’t just loosen it. For a spring compressor, I just used a long threaded rod, a couple of nuts, and a progressive set of washers. The final washer going against the spring retaining plate turned out to be a 2.5lb weight that I bought at the local fitness store. I needed to make the hole at the top of the tower larger (I used a grinder) so that the metal rod could pass through it. Use a coarse thread rod (otherwise it will take forever to unload the spring), and be liberal with the wd40 on it as you compress. Be SURE the rod is long enough to release all the spring energy before you run out of threads. If you really are intent on doing this in the car, then you’ll have to jack the front end up really high to slip a long-enough-rod into the tower. I’ve pulled springs by supporting the plate with a jack, undoing the bolts, and then lowering the plate and spring out… Your chance of re-installing the spring this way (getting the plate to line up perfectly on the A-arm) is about zero. Actually, if you care about the car, I wouldn’t even pull them this way, it’s easy for things to slip and bind as the plate starts to come loose under load, making getting the last bolt or 2 out very hard. Here’s another tip from experience… old long water-pump bolts make excellent spring plate guides when it comes time to re-install the spring. They have the same thread at the ends as the actual plate bolts, and smooth sides so the plate will slide along them without catching. Get them started as early as possible, the more spring load you’re fighting, the harder it will be to get them started. Pulling/inserting A-arm bushings is probably best done with a big bench vice and an assortement of big sockets. I found armor-all to be about the best lubricant I tried to get the rubber to slip into the metal sleeves. Good luck- If you need to make any ride height adjustments let me know, I’ve got a bunch more tips I can pass along there… Ryan. From: Ryan Border rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 10:04:50 -0700 Subject: re: 1 person brake bleeding jwh@mime.dw.lucent.com writes: has anyone used the one person type that fits a hose over the bleed nipple into a jar of fluid with any success ? I have one of these, and have had only marginal success with it. The probelem I encounter is air slipping by the threads on the bleeder nipple. So, I can never tell if the air in the tube is actually coming from the caliper, or slipping into the system from outside. The kit came with a little package of sealant to put on the bleeder for just this reason, but it doesn’t seem to work all that well. My method is to use the kit to to the first %80 of the bleeding, where it is very convenient. But for the last bit of bleeding on each caliper I use the old friend pumping the pedal method. Ryan. From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 13:49:15 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Leather Interior Kirbert: Every car brochure I have seen in recent years describes leather upholstery as ‘leather seating surfaces’. I have always assumed that this means a combination of cowhide and naugahide. The practice must go back a long way: the seat backs on my '69 E-Type appear to be synthetic. Mike Frank At 12:01 PM 10/9/96 -0005, you wrote:

Chad Bolles:

Yes the entire interior should be leather.

Actually, I’m not sure ANY of them are entirely leather. On mine,
many of the parts of the seat that don’t touch occupants are vinyl.
It’s my understanding that most – if not all – of the cars are this
way.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 14:23:31 -0005
Subject: H&E Convertible Fuel System

Since my XJ-S help book is finally getting around, I occasionally get
phone calls from people wanting help getting their car fixed. Given
how much I have learned about the cars over the years, it is simply
amazing how rarely I can actually help them!

I got a call a while ago from Marv Schindler in Marathon, Florida,
which is half way down the keys. Marv owns a Hess & Eisenhart
convertible, and is having trouble with the fuel system – and I know
nothing about the H&E fuel system.

He can only put about 12 gallons in it, even though it’s supposed to
take 24. He says the car has two tanks, one just forward of the
spare tire and under where the convertible top stores, and another
under the shelf behind the front seats. Each tank has its own fuel
pump; there’s one in the trunk that looks like the standard Lucas
pump, but the forward tank has a pump inside it. There are also two
fuel gauge sending units, one per tank, but only one gauge on the
dash.

While I pointed out that dual tanks are nothing new for Jaguar
(although it is different for an XJ-S), this system has no changeover
switch. Apparently it does whatever changeover it does
automatically. No clue as to how it works. Supposedly it was an H&E
invention.

He also reported that H&E convertibles have apparently had some fuel
tank explosions followed by lawsuits against H&E. If you call H&E,
which is apparently some sort of chassis manufacturer, you can’t
find anyone who claims to know anything about the Jaguar
convertible. Only makes finding info harder.

If anyone can provide some factual info on this system, I’d be happy
to include it in my book – or maybe just a reference to the source,
so that H&E owners can find it for themselves.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 1996 14:40:36 -0700
Subject: [Fwd: Returned mail: User unknown]

Return-Path: MAILER-DAEMON
Received: from localhost (localhost) by westnet.com (8.7.6/8.7.3) with internal id NAA26952; Wed, 9 Oct 1996 13:49:21 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 13:49:21 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mail Delivery Subsystem
Subject: Returned mail: User unknown
Message-Id: 199610091749.NAA26952@westnet.com
To: mfrank@westnet.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: multipart/report; report-type=delivery-status;
boundary=“NAA26952.844883361/westnet.com”
Auto-Submitted: auto-generated (failure)

This is a MIME-encapsulated message

–NAA26952.844883361/westnet.com

The original message was received at Wed, 9 Oct 1996 13:49:13 -0400 (EDT)
from port12.ts1.westnet.com [206.24.7.233]

----- The following addresses have delivery notifications -----
jag-lvoers@sn.no (unrecoverable error)

----- Transcript of session follows -----
… while talking to ekeberg.sn.no.:

RCPT To:jag-lvoers@sn.no
<<< 550 jag-lvoers@sn.no… User unknown
550 jag-lvoers@sn.no… User unknown

–NAA26952.844883361/westnet.com
Content-Type: message/delivery-status

Reporting-MTA: dns; westnet.com
Received-From-MTA: DNS; port12.ts1.westnet.com
Arrival-Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 13:49:13 -0400 (EDT)

Final-Recipient: RFC822; jag-lvoers@sn.no
Action: failed
Status: 5.2.0
Remote-MTA: DNS; ekeberg.sn.no
Diagnostic-Code: SMTP; 550 jag-lvoers@sn.no… User unknown
Last-Attempt-Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 13:49:20 -0400 (EDT)

–NAA26952.844883361/westnet.com
Content-Type: message/rfc822

Return-Path: mfrank@westnet.com
Received: from LOCALNAME (port12.ts1.westnet.com [206.24.7.233]) by westnet.com (8.7.6/8.7.3) with SMTP id NAA26948; Wed, 9 Oct 1996 13:49:13 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 13:49:13 -0400 (EDT)
Message-Id: 199610091749.NAA26948@westnet.com
X-Sender: mfrank@westnet.com
X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 1.5.2
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=“us-ascii”
To: “Himes,John W.” jwh@mime.dw.lucent.com
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Subject: Re: US Floor Jack Price & Question about 1 person brake
bleeding
Cc: jag-lvoers@sn.no

John:

I use a home-made one man bleed kit. I use a piece of rubber tubing

which fits snuggly over the bleed nipple. I run this into a glass bottle
which is 1/4 filled with brake fluid. You just open the bleeder and pump the
brake until clean fluid starts to come out. As long as the end of the hose
remains below the level of the fluid in the jar, no air will get back into
the works.
I have used this method for many years, on many cars

Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2

At 10:01 AM 10/9/96 PDT, you wrote:

Other then the one person with the “EZ Bleed” kit in the UK that attaches to
the spare tire for pressure & a large resivoir of fluid ( can’t seem to find
one like that ), has anyone used the one person type that fits a hose over
the bleed nipple into a jar of fluid with any success ?

–NAA26952.844883361/westnet.com–

From: “Brian Kelly” bkelly@globalnet.co.uk
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 08:11:17 +0100
Subject: XJ40 - Oil Change

Hi Folks

I have been reading the list for a few days now and think it’s great.

Having recently purchased a '90 XJ40 Sovereign (6th September),
I am really interested in your comment’s, technical queries and
opinion’s on Jag ownership.

Problems with the Sov. so far have been a front offside wheel bearing
and stub axle replacement and a leaking cap on the power steering
bottle. Apart from this the car runs like a dream.

It is my intention to replace the engine oil and filter this weekend,
my question is should I use a synthetic oil (Mobil One @ �24.99 a can)
or a normal one such as Castrol GTX/Duckhams etc. and change this on
a more frequent basis.

Thanks.

Brian Kelly - Durham, England

From: viadata@interramp.com (David Hurlston)
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 1996 14:34:56 -0700
Subject: XJ40 rear shock conversion

I just put in the Jaguar kit. A couple of thoughts:

- The kit came with absolutely no instructions for the strut assembly,
  removal of old or installation of new.
- If feasible, ask the supplier to assemble the struts for you. The puny
  spring compressors I tried to use were not up to the job and I ended up
  taking them to a shop for assembly. It might save you some frustration and
  even a finger or two. However, there may be some problems shipping the
  struts assembled since there is plenty of stored energy in them.

Dave

From: Steve_Kemp_at_NBD@pcmail.tellabs.com
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 96 14:32:00 CST
Subject: Re[2]: 1 person brake bleeding

 I've only had success with using one person and a vacuum pump. The jar 
 worked great only with my motorcycles.
 
 Steve

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: re: 1 person brake bleeding
Author: Ryan Border rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com at smtplink-tellabs
Date: 10/9/96 2:00 PM

jwh@mime.dw.lucent.com writes:

has anyone used the one person type that fits a hose over
the bleed nipple into a jar of fluid with any success ?

I have one of these, and have had only marginal success with it. The
probelem I encounter is air slipping by the threads on the bleeder
nipple. So, I can never tell if the air in the tube is actually coming
from the caliper, or slipping into the system from outside.

The kit came with a little package of sealant to put on the bleeder for
just this reason, but it doesn’t seem to work all that well.

My method is to use the kit to to the first %80 of the bleeding, where
it is very convenient. But for the last bit of bleeding on each caliper
I use the old friend pumping the pedal method.

Ryan.

From: Ryan Border rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 1996 13:43:55 PDT
Subject: (ride height: long)

Hi Rick-

I’ll take you up on the advice offered-

I guess that means you want my tips on ride-height…

Here goes:

If it’s not too late, measure the ride height on the front end of
your car. How and where you do this really isn’t important, so long
as you’re consistent about it. I measure from the ground to the outside
edge of the hightest point on the fender-lip. Getting a base-line before
you take things apart could save you one installation/removal cycle
on the front springs: which is not a trivial job.

Obviously, if everything looks good, then just don’t mix things up
and put them together the way you found them.

On a Mk1/Mk2 (would guess, but can’t be certain that it’s the same on an S-type) the easiest way to tell if you’ve got a sagging front spring is to park the car on a level surface, and check the rear (yes rear) bumper for level. If you have a bad front spring, it’s like having a table with one leg too short. The table will either sit perfectly level, or will teeter over onto the short leg- depending on the weight distribution. With a bad front spring, because of all the weight up front in the car, it will definitely fall onto the short (bad) front corner- raising the opposite rear corner. The result is that it makes the rear spring(s) on the same side as the bad front spring look bad. If you’ve got a ‘sagging’ right rear corner, suspect the right front spring. If you suspect this might be the case, there is a test to verify. Support the car with a big floor jack centered under the front crossmember. Take off both front wheels and lower the front end to about where it normally rides. Now, re-measure the rear; if it’s level (and wasn’t before) then you’ve got front spring problems. If it’s still crooked, then you get to play with your rear springs… This is expensive experience talking: I put brand new rear springs in my car, and the rear still sagged to one side. Swapped them side to side, and the same rear corner sagged. It was the front springs all along. Any adjustments you make to a front spring length will have approximately double the effect on ride height. This is because the A-arms form a lever, with the spring mid-way between the wheel (ball-joints) and the fulcrum. After a lot of experimenting, I can say with some confidence that the multiplication factor is a little less than 2; say 1.8 or 1.9. I learned this (2X) lesson the very expensive way the first time I cut a set of coil springs. If your aim is to raise a front corner, then all you do is add shims under the ends of the spring. There are washer-type shims that go at the top of the spring (your car almost certainly has these in it) and flexible C-shaped shims which go under the pig-tail end. In addition to the 1.9 rule, expect that the opposite side will follow the one your adjusting a little bit. If you raise the left side an inch, by adding a 1/2" shim to it, expect the right side to come up… maybe 1/8" The real challenge comes when you need to lower a front corner. If the required adjustment is small (less than 1/2" or so) then there’s a trick you can use to save you much potential grief: simply shim between the spring retaining plate and the lower A-arm. My final 1/4" adjustment on one side (1/8" shims) was done this way. For shims, I simply used washers. To play it safe, longer bolts are also reccomended. Actually the stock bolts have non-threaded points on them; I’m using bolts the same length but with threads running all the way to the end and feel perfectly safe with them. If you over-lower a car with this method, you can simply take the shims out… you can’t undo a spring cut. With some patience, you can actually do this without pulling the springs: install compressor for safety, remove outer bolts, loosen middle bolts, slip in outer shims and re-install bolts. Loosen inner bolts, remove middle bolts, install shims and sort of tighten. Remove inner bolts and install shims, tighten everything. You have to finesse it, but it can be done. Which brings us to cutting springs. The actual cutting is a piece of cake, I’ve used a hack-saw, a sawzall, and a rotary air-powered cutting wheel; all with success. The challenge is determining where to cut them. What you need to do is cut the desired adjustment (divided by 1.9) from the compressed (loaded) coil; not from the free coil. So, what you do is: with the car on its wheels, measure the distance between adjascent coils on the spring. Measure along the axis of the spring; not perpendicular to the coils. This number, and your desired adjustment is about all you need. Example: Say your measured distance between coils is 1.625" ← it will vary a lot from one car to another, depending on springs used. Don’t worry if your number is a lot different. And, suppose you want to lower that corner 0.75". 0.75" / (1 compressed coils / 1.625") / 1.9 => 0.641 compressed coils. You want to cut 0.641 coils off the spring. The point of this is to find a unit (coils) that is constant in or out of the car. But there’s more. If you look at your spring, and it hasn’t been cut before, you’ll probably see a flattened end on the pig-tail. (it is the pig-tail end that you need to cut). So, get out the calipers again, and measure the distance (in the middle of the spring, along the axis) between 2 uncompressed coils. It’s easiest to just not adjust the calipers; and now find the point on the spring which is that same distance down from the end of the flattened pig-tail. It will probably be about 1.25 coils down. It’s a bit of an eye-baller… so mark both springs at the same time and be consistent about it. Mark that point (felt tip); which will be the reference point for any cuts: 1 “coil” from the end. Back to our example: What we want to cut is 0.641 coils, or 0.359 coils short of the mark we just made. Start at the “1 coil” mark, and go 129 (0.359*360) degrees towards the tip and that’s your cutting mark. My car (with S-type/420) uprights has got cut down springs from a MKX in it. I had to install them “as is” to get a reference, and then: using the above method, lowered the car to the perfect height in one shot. I cut over 2 coils on one side, about 1.5 coils on the other. (my towers have quite uneven heights for some reason). Well, not perfect, I did make the aforementioned 1/4" adjustment on one side. The other advice I have, is to never trust a single measurement. Take the shocks and sway bar out (they just add friction for this exercise). Go drive the car for a short distance, stopping everywhere you see that looks level and repeat your measurements. Throw out any that are way off the others, and use an average of the rest. You’ll be surprised how much they vary, and will be glad you didn’t do anything drastic based on a bad measurement. DRIVE THE CAR: everytime you lower it onto the front wheels, the tires will get pinched in, artificially raising the front end. Just around the block will be fine to alleviate this. If you get the sides within 1/8" of eachother, you’ve done a great job. In the US, if anything, you might want the right side to be a hair higher than the left to help compensate for road crown. If you want to be very accurate, then be sure to load the car as it will be when driven (you might toss 150lbs of sand-bags into the drivers seat for instance). Whew- Ryan. End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #418 ******************************** Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4) id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Thu, 10 Oct 1996 02:08:22 +0200 (MET DST) Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 02:08:22 +0200 (MET DST) Message-Id: 199610100008.CAA28720@ekeberg.sn.no X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #419 Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Precedence: bulk X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 10 October 1996 Volume 02 : Number 419 Front end alignment AC Compressors Re[2]: Leather Interior Re: [XK8] Price Polished E-Type [was: Re: XK’s Unlimited open house] Re: XJ-S Drain Plug Putting in the crossover pipe (XJS) Doh! Big mistake in previous message Re[2]: `89 XJ40 Re: V12 Radiator drains Re: Leather Interior Re: H&E Convertible Fuel System Re: Jack Stands for an E-Type Re[2]: V12 Radiator drains Re: 62 E, oil pressure too high Re: Fuel tank sealant Re[2]: Front end alignment From: Tony Watts amw@maths.uq.oz.au Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 07:51:24 +1000 Subject: Front end alignment There is a web page on do-it-yourself wheel alignment that I found out about somewhere, perhaps even from the jag lovers list: http://www.vtr.org/maintain/diy-alignment.html It looks a little over complicated to me but I am sure that people could adapt it to their own tastes. I have never tried it so cannot vouch for it. Tony Watts From: gprice@Rt66.com (Gregory W. Price) Date: Wed, 09 Oct 1996 14:13:58 -0600 Subject: AC Compressors My '85VdP needs an A/C compressor. I have the type with the superheat switch, which is about 100 bucks more than the compressor without the superheat switch. What is a superheat switch, and can I either supplant the one I have, or use the other compressor and ignore the superheat switch? TIA Greg. ******************************************************************* Gregory W. Price & Company, Ltd Business research and information management for those who need it most. 1-800-670-5491 ******************************************************************* From: Steve_Kemp_at_NBD@pcmail.tellabs.com Date: Wed, 09 Oct 96 16:51:17 CST Subject: Re[2]: Leather Interior The seat backs and sides on all of my Fords have been vinyl, while the surfaces were/are leather. Vinyl (or ICI(?) vinylide or something with a wierd name) is used on the door panels and sills on early E-Types, while leather is used on the seats and shift boot. I think the actual console is vinyl too. I’m fairly certain that BAS or British Auto could offer a definitive solution. Since it’s a Ford now, I suppose only the seating surfaces will be leather Steve ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Re: Leather Interior Author: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com at smtplink-tellabs Date: 10/9/96 3:02 PM Kirbert: Every car brochure I have seen in recent years describes leather upholstery as ‘leather seating surfaces’. I have always assumed that this means a combination of cowhide and naugahide. The practice must go back a long way: the seat backs on my '69 E-Type appear to be synthetic. Mike Frank At 12:01 PM 10/9/96 -0005, you wrote:

Chad Bolles:

Yes the entire interior should be leather.

Actually, I’m not sure ANY of them are entirely leather. On mine,
many of the parts of the seat that don’t touch occupants are vinyl.
It’s my understanding that most – if not all – of the cars are this
way.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 18:03:39 -0500
Subject: Re: [XK8] Price

Geez, don’t you guys get to vote? Is this a byproduct of a plan to
massively discourage the use of luxury cars? What is the price of
something a bit more basic, like a Honda Accord for example. When I
visited Austrailia recently I saw a TV ad for an Accord at something like
AU$ 36,000. It appeared to be the equivavlent of my wife’s new accord,
which cost just under US$ 20,000.

Or is there a bigger picture that makes such a comparison invalid. For
example, here we have a variety of National, State and sometimes local
income taxes. For cars over US$ 30,000 we have a luxury tax on the cost in
excess of $ 30,000. In addition, at least in this state, we have a sales
tax on the purchase price, miscellaneous title and registration fees and an
annual property tax. I’ll have to do a bit of research and then I can put
up a number that represents earnings before any taxes required to buy an
XK-8. (And then I can translate that into Big Macs )

MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: [XK8] Price
Author: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no at Internet
Date: 10/8/1996 4:03 AM

gunnar@medial.se (Gunnar Forsgren) wrote:

It’s time to begin saving up. A reasonably equipped cabriolet
costs 750 000 Skr (Swedish Crowns).

I just checked today. In Norway the same car costs around 1.5 million
Norwegian Kroner. At 6.5 Kroner to the $ that should work out to a
whopping $230,000! (Around 1.3 million or $200,000 for the coupe).

I could comment further on that, but then again you all know my feelings
about the prices of cars in Norway…

By the way, what are the chances of getting a Green Card in the US these
days?

Gunnar

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 18:21:54 -0500
Subject: Polished E-Type [was: Re: XK’s Unlimited open house]

 Sounds like a couple of E-Types I've seen at concours events (after 
 they rolled out of an enclosed trailer.)
 
 I don't look down at people who try to maintain a car in perfect 
 "like-new" condition, but I have to admit I don't understand how cars 
 that are chromed and polished way beyond the way they were originally 
 can be judged so highly.
 
 Any of you judges?  If so, how about a discussion of how things are 
 judged for originality, especially for appearance?
 
 MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: XK’s Unlimited open house
Author: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com at Internet
Date: 10/7/1996 7:46 PM

 <snip>
 
 There were some beautiful cars there.  I spoke with one of the XKU 
 guys who showed me just what they had done to a 74 OTS E and a MKII 
 to justify the $120K each to the owner (some rich guy in Florida).         
 Polished down to the last screw.
 
 <snip>
 
 Best,
 
 David

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 18:40:01 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ-S Drain Plug

 Is one of those dates a typo?  3/87 seems way too early be an '87.  My 
 '88 was built 12/87 (without a drain of any kind.)
 
 MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: XJ-S Drain Plug
Author: “Himes;John W.” jwh@mime.dw.lucent.com at Internet
Date: 10/8/1996 7:27 AM

I have an 88 V12 XJ-S ( MFG 3/87 )

John Himes
88 XJ-S 98K Miles

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 1996 16:56:15 -0500
Subject: Putting in the crossover pipe (XJS)

I have just replaced the crossover pipe in my '85 XJS. After much trial and
error I have found a way that works. If you ever have to do it, this is the
only way if the water pump is installed already. I think it might be easier
to install if it went on with the water pump attached except for one thing.

When removing the water pump the Haynes manual says remove the crankshaft
pully. I have several problems with that aside from the fact that its not
needed, its not easy and means you have to remove the starter which adds
more work. “The starter you say?”, yes, the starter so that you can jamb
the flywheel to remove/replace the crank nut which is at 150 ft pounds.

I feel that if the crank nut and the pully bolts (4) are tight, don’t mess
with them. Let sleeping dogs lie. (check them, of course) The water pump
will come out and go back in without removing the crank pully. But the pump
will not go back on with the crossover pipe connected if the pully is still
on as you have to snake it in over the pully and the crossover pipe would be
a big impediment.

So having said that and realising that you are now going to replace the
crossover pipe with the water pump already installed, there is only one way:

Lubricate all three of the pipe connections (on the two thermostat housings
and the water pump) liberaly with 3M water hose sealer. Then lubricate the
three matching pipe ends on the crossover pipe with the 3M stuff. Now slip
the new, cut to the proper length, hoses onto the crossover pipe. Put two
clamps onto each of the three hoses, not tight, just enough so they don’t
slide off. The two clamps on the right side should be placed so the screw
is on top when installed and slightly back. The clamp on the thermostat
housing on the left side should be so that it is on the bottom and slightly
back so there is enough room for a screwdriver angled down below the header
tank. The two clamps on the water pump hose should be on the left side of
the hose slightly back so the screwdriver is angled to the left side of the
car. If you set the clamps up this way you will save alot of greif later on.

Now push the hoses up onto the crossover pipe as far as they will go. Next
place the center (water pump), hose onto the water pump tilting it and the
crossover into position. It will take a little pushing and prying with a
screwdriver, but its not too bad and the hardest part is done.

Now, pull all the three hoses into approximately the correct position and
lightly tighten the clamps. Now make sure the small pipe on the top of the
crossover is clear of the big bolt on the block so that the hose to the
overflow tank can be put on without being in a position to rub a hole in it.
Tighten all six clamps and you are done.

I hope this helps someone.

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: Ryan Border rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 1996 16:38:51 PDT
Subject: Doh! Big mistake in previous message

Doh!

Basic math skills fail me…

I wrote:

Say your measured distance between coils is 1.625"
And, suppose you want to lower that corner 0.75".

0.75" / (1 compressed coils / 1.625") / 1.9 => 0.641 compressed coils.

Of course this should have read

0.75" * (1 compressed coil / 1.625") / 1.9 => 0.243 compressed coils.
^^^
and

What we want to cut is 0.641 coils, or 0.359 coils short of the mark we
just made. Start at the “1 coil” mark, and go 129 (0.359*360) degrees
towards the tip and that’s your cutting mark.

should have been:
What we want to cut is 0.243 coils, or 0.757 coils short of the mark we
just made. Start at the “1 coil” mark, and go 272 (0.757*360) degrees
towards the tip and that’s your cutting mark.

Is it Friday yet?
Ryan.

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 18:48:36 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: `89 XJ40

'Cause it’s an XJ-40 and they’re so ugly no one wants them???

<sorry, I couldn’t resist swinging at such a slow pitch>

<no, no, no! before all you XJ-40 owners sic your dogs on me, it’s a joke,
only a joke!>

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: `89 XJ40
Author: rpeng@cadev6.intel.com at Internet
Date: 10/8/1996 10:04 AM

Just got a 1989 xj6(40) vanden plas. 39k miles, 10G US price.

 <snip>

Sometimes I don’t understand the stunning depreciation on these
cars. Why would someone want to give away a low-mileage, top of the
line Jag for so little money?

 Roger Peng

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 15:07:40 -0500
Subject: Re: V12 Radiator drains

My 1985 XJS has the clamp in transmission hoses and does have a drain.

However the drain is virtualy worthless since it drains out horizontaly and
onto the front suspension and is virtualy impossible to catch in anything
smaller than a bath tub.

I asket the radiator shop that rodded it to solder a small elbo ont ot to
make it drain down but they would not do it for fear that the heat would
dammage the seals in the drain cock.

Does anyone have a suggestion to solve the drain mess?

Oh, by the way ( boy, am I going to sneak this one in on them! ). I prefer
the discussion of Beer and Burbon or the Beauty of the SIII/Mark II to the
discussion of the XJ8 since I dont think there is one XJ8 owner on the list
yet and very few with the wherewithall to become XJ8 owners. At least I can
own a can of beer, a bottle of burbon, a series III or a Mark II (I actualy
own 3 out of four). The XJ8 discussion takes up 50% of the more recent
digests while the beer/burbon/series III/MarkII discussion takes up less than 5%

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 19:45:38 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Leather Interior

Kirby: I think that you are right, the side of the front seats are
something else, but unlike the XJ-6 the door panels and other pieces are
leather.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212 USA 803 798 3044On
Wed, 9 Oct 1996, Kirbert wrote:

Chad Bolles:

Yes the entire interior should be leather.

Actually, I’m not sure ANY of them are entirely leather. On mine,
many of the parts of the seat that don’t touch occupants are vinyl.
It’s my understanding that most – if not all – of the cars are this
way.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 19:50:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: H&E Convertible Fuel System

Kirby: I have a friend with an H&E he has all the parts books and such.
And yes the fuel system is one of the main reasons Jaguar quit selling
the H&E car. I will see what my friend has to say as he has fixed his
fuel system. Will TRY tomorrow, as I have a rather full day planed
already.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212 USA 803 798 3044On
Wed, 9 Oct 1996, Kirbert wrote:

Since my XJ-S help book is finally getting around, I occasionally get
phone calls from people wanting help getting their car fixed. Given
how much I have learned about the cars over the years, it is simply
amazing how rarely I can actually help them!

I got a call a while ago from Marv Schindler in Marathon, Florida,
which is half way down the keys. Marv owns a Hess & Eisenhart
convertible, and is having trouble with the fuel system – and I know
nothing about the H&E fuel system.

He can only put about 12 gallons in it, even though it’s supposed to
take 24. He says the car has two tanks, one just forward of the
spare tire and under where the convertible top stores, and another
under the shelf behind the front seats. Each tank has its own fuel
pump; there’s one in the trunk that looks like the standard Lucas
pump, but the forward tank has a pump inside it. There are also two
fuel gauge sending units, one per tank, but only one gauge on the
dash.

While I pointed out that dual tanks are nothing new for Jaguar
(although it is different for an XJ-S), this system has no changeover
switch. Apparently it does whatever changeover it does
automatically. No clue as to how it works. Supposedly it was an H&E
invention.

He also reported that H&E convertibles have apparently had some fuel
tank explosions followed by lawsuits against H&E. If you call H&E,
which is apparently some sort of chassis manufacturer, you can’t
find anyone who claims to know anything about the Jaguar
convertible. Only makes finding info harder.

If anyone can provide some factual info on this system, I’d be happy
to include it in my book – or maybe just a reference to the source,
so that H&E owners can find it for themselves.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 19:29:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Jack Stands for an E-Type

This is a Mime message, which your current mail reader
may not understand. Parts of the message will appear as
text. To process the remainder, you will need to use a Mime
compatible mail reader. Contact your vendor for details.

–IMA.Boundary.143509448
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Description: cc:Mail note part

I have had jackstands for many, many years. I can’t imagine working on a
car in the garage without them. (Unless I could have a real lift!!) For a
variety of reasons, I now have eight stands instead of four. I certainly
consider four the minimum. My stands extend to about 24" maximum. I’m
pretty big (i.e. fat), but find the height sufficient for working on my '74
E-Type. $48 a pair seems very high. Try shopping at K-Mart, Walmart, or
your local discount auto parts chain. (e.g. Trak Auto, Hi-Gear, etc.) You
should be able to buy them for less than half that price. A six ton stand
is overkill for one corner of a less than two-ton car.

A good hydraulic floor jack is also a great investment if you plan on doing
much DIY work. A couple of pumps and the entire end of the car is off the
ground. Never work with the car on the jack, support it with stands!!

Personally, I think it’s a better investment to get a good quality jack
(e.g. Walker) instead of a K-Mart special. It’ll last a long time, and if
you have a minor problem you can get new seals, etc. easily. The el-cheapo
jacks tend to be throw-away items.

The three things I use constantly in auto maintenance are my floor jack, my
stands and my compressor.

MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Jack Stands for an E-Type
Author: rrichardson@eurekanet.com (Robert J. Richardson) at Internet
Date: 10/9/1996 12:23 AM

Robert Abascal in his 10/7 posting advised me to consider purchasing jack
stands and a floor jack for use now to access the rear brake bleed nipples
by removing the forward coil springs and shocks. I have metal ramps, but he
was correct in saying that the suspension must be unsprung re weight or the
springs and shocks can’t be removed. It’s no small investment, I agree, but
he said the units would more than pay for themselves in the event major
brake work is required and for regular maintenance of under-body units and
parts. He also said to get the tallest jack stands I could find. Imparts,
primarily a BMW parts house, has a pair of 6-ton jack stands that have a
maximum lifting height of 25 inches. My questions are 1) will 25 inches
maximum height give me elbow room under my E-Type and 2) is the price of
$48 per pair a competitive price? Should I invest in two pair to have a
level car platform? Also, what can I be expected to pay for a floor jack
and does anyone on the list have this information plus the source for such
a jack?
I’m on hold now waiting the return of my newly resleeved master cylinders
and am hoping to get the bleed job, etc. completed before freezing weather
sets in (unheated and small built-on garage).

–IMA.Boundary.143509448–

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 19:52:51 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: V12 Radiator drains

This is a Mime message, which your current mail reader
may not understand. Parts of the message will appear as
text. To process the remainder, you will need to use a Mime
compatible mail reader. Contact your vendor for details.

–IMA.Boundary.085509448
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Description: cc:Mail note part

What year XJ-S had the drain? Any chance is was added?

MikeC
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: V12 Radiator drains
Author: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu at Internet
Date: 10/9/1996 8:35 AM

Mark: Hate to disagree with you, but the other day while working on an S
with the screw on trans cooler lines, I noticed that it had a drain codk
on it… Had to look twice to believe it, for I as you believed the drain
cock to be a thing of the past, but there it was.

Chad Bolles

–IMA.Boundary.085509448–

From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 20:03:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: 62 E, oil pressure too high

All:

To those who asked, the PO of my car installed a mechanical oil pressure
guage in the space normally occupied by the electrical guage. The face of
the meter reads ‘Autometer 2421’ that is as much as I know about who made
it. It is exactly the same size as the original, but has a red pointer, so
it is a minor eysore. There is a simple fitting in place of the normal
sending unit, which allows attachment of a capilary tube. The tube enters
the dash thru the same grommet as the choke cable. By the way, a small
amount of oil seeps from this capilary into the interior of the car, making
the Jag experience that much more complete.

Mike Frank
1969 E-Type

At 06:19 PM 10/8/96 -0700, you wrote:

Hi Michael,

I’m curious too about a mechanical oil pressure gauge for
a 62 e-type. Could you email me the details as well?

Thanks in advance,

Ken

John:

60 PSI is not dangerously high. My 4.2 E-Type fluctuates between 25-35 PSI
at idle, and 50-65 PSI at speed. The only way you would be blowing smoke at
this pressure is if your head gasket had given way. Things to check:

1.What is your RPM at idle? Should be about 600, give or take 100.
Higher speed>higher pressure.

Bypass may be stuck or obstructed.

Oil filer may be clogged.

Bad guage or sensor.

The PO of my car installed a mechanical guage. I will check the make
tonight, and E-mail you.

Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2

At 08:38 AM 10/8/96 MDT, you wrote:

I have a problem with oil pressure on my 62 E type. Recently, after
l
Is there a mechanical oil pressure gauge available with the correct thread
that I could put in to verify the pressure?

From: alex@lindisfarne.hb.school.nz (alex beacham)
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 96 13:03 NZST
Subject: Re: Fuel tank sealant

The only purpose fuel tank sealant is good for is sealing up the seams in a
fuel tank. In my experience it is no good for sealing up holes. Yes you do
have to slosh it around the tank.

If you want the ultimate in beer, wine and jaguars, then you better come to
New Zealand.

Alex.

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 20:01:22 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: Front end alignment

This is a Mime message, which your current mail reader
may not understand. Parts of the message will appear as
text. To process the remainder, you will need to use a Mime
compatible mail reader. Contact your vendor for details.

–IMA.Boundary.160609448
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Description: cc:Mail note part

I agree with Chad. Any competent shop can easily do my XJ-S. I had mine
done by the local Goodyear dealer when I had new tires installed. Only
caveat is to make sure they have the right settings. Thanks to my fellow
Jag-lovers, who have pointed this out many times, I took the correct
settings with me. Sure enough, their book was wrong. They cheerfully used
my settings. No pulling, no handling degradation and no visible uneven
tire wear. They just charged their standard price for a conventional rear
wheel drive car.

MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Front end alignment
Author: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu at Internet
Date: 10/9/1996 8:48 AM

The front end of the Jag is just a straight forward front end, no big
deal, it has caster and camber and toe end settings just like a Ford or a
Chev.

I get all my front alignment work done by a local shop here in Columbia SC
and even Tyre America said they would do it. Cost around $25.

Chad Bolles

–IMA.Boundary.160609448–

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #419

Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4)
id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Thu, 10 Oct 1996 15:31:26 +0200 (MET DST)
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 15:31:26 +0200 (MET DST)
Message-Id: 199610101331.PAA22999@ekeberg.sn.no
X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f
From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #420
Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Precedence: bulk
X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest

jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 10 October 1996 Volume 02 : Number 420

XK8 on Speed Vision
Re[2]: Leather Interior
Re: H&E Convertible Fuel System
XK8 Prices and Aust. car costs (little jag content)
Re: XJ6 series III headlight loss
Two Birds – One Stone?
(Fwd) I spit PATOO!
Seat Mounting Bolts & Nuts - XJ-S
XJ-S Seat Mount Bolts
Re: Putting in the crossover pipe (XJS)
Re: Putting in the crossover pipe (XJS)
Re: Polished E-Type [was: Re: XK’s Unlimited open house]
Re[3]: Leather Interior
A question of paint color for restoration
Front end alignment
Re: Re[2]: V12 Radiator drains

From: Frank Perrick frankp@mscnet.net
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 1996 20:36:57 -0400
Subject: XK8 on Speed Vision

Jaguar bought a lengthy spot on speedvision net work,I scrambled for a
tape and caught about %70 of it . It’s a very well done comercial
showing all aspects of the production and driving of the XK8. It’s in a
lexus style format lots of sureal type shots extremly well done with
interviews from factory employees that build the XK8. About 10 mins in
length?? Hope this airs on more common networkss for all to enjoy.
Frank P.

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 20:26:32 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: Leather Interior

This is a Mime message, which your current mail reader
may not understand. Parts of the message will appear as
text. To process the remainder, you will need to use a Mime
compatible mail reader. Contact your vendor for details.

–IMA.Boundary.147709448
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Description: cc:Mail note part

I don’t think there is a simple answer. It seems to vary from year to year
and market to market. Judging from all the photos and descriptions I’ve
seen, the XJ-S generally gained increasing amounts of leather and wood as
the years passed. My '88 brochure describes both the seats and doors as
leather covered. The later 6-cyl XJ-S in the US market probably has less
leather than the V-12, just as it lacks the trip computer and several other
features. On my XJ-S, the instrument panel is black, while on newer XJ-Ss
I’ve seen wood ones (at least on ones with round gauges.)

On my '74 E-Type the only leather is the actual seating surfaces, all the rest of the seats and the entire rest of the interior is one of two types of vinyl. I also have brochures where different models of the XJ-6 are clearly described as having different amounts of leather. For example, the '93 XJ-6 (XJ-40) is described as having leather faced seats while the VDP version is described as having full leather seat trim, handbrake grip, sun visors, console, armrests and map pockets. MikeC ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Re: Leather Interior Author: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com at Internet Date: 10/9/1996 1:49 PM Kirbert: Every car brochure I have seen in recent years describes leather upholstery as ‘leather seating surfaces’. I have always assumed that this means a combination of cowhide and naugahide. The practice must go back a long way: the seat backs on my '69 E-Type appear to be synthetic. Mike Frank At 12:01 PM 10/9/96 -0005, you wrote:

Chad Bolles:

Yes the entire interior should be leather.

Actually, I’m not sure ANY of them are entirely leather. On mine,
many of the parts of the seat that don’t touch occupants are vinyl.
It’s my understanding that most – if not all – of the cars are this
way.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

–IMA.Boundary.147709448–

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 20:43:50 -0500
Subject: Re: H&E Convertible Fuel System

I can, and will, write you a description of the H&E fuel system. That
particular Rube Goldberg system is one of the biggest differences between an H&E
and a “normal” XJ-S.

I pretty much figured out for myself how it all worked, but thanks to Julian
Mullaney (whose beloved H&E was flattened by a tree during Hurricane Fran) I now
have an H&E manual to refer to.

I’ll send you a detailed write-up in a few days.

MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: H&E Convertible Fuel System
Author: palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu at Internet
Date: 10/9/1996 2:23 PM

Since my XJ-S help book is finally getting around, I occasionally get
phone calls from people wanting help getting their car fixed. Given
how much I have learned about the cars over the years, it is simply
amazing how rarely I can actually help them!

I got a call a while ago from Marv Schindler in Marathon, Florida,
which is half way down the keys. Marv owns a Hess & Eisenhart
convertible, and is having trouble with the fuel system – and I know
nothing about the H&E fuel system.

He can only put about 12 gallons in it, even though it’s supposed to
take 24. He says the car has two tanks, one just forward of the
spare tire and under where the convertible top stores, and another
under the shelf behind the front seats. Each tank has its own fuel
pump; there’s one in the trunk that looks like the standard Lucas
pump, but the forward tank has a pump inside it. There are also two
fuel gauge sending units, one per tank, but only one gauge on the
dash.

While I pointed out that dual tanks are nothing new for Jaguar
(although it is different for an XJ-S), this system has no changeover
switch. Apparently it does whatever changeover it does
automatically. No clue as to how it works. Supposedly it was an H&E
invention.

He also reported that H&E convertibles have apparently had some fuel
tank explosions followed by lawsuits against H&E. If you call H&E,
which is apparently some sort of chassis manufacturer, you can’t
find anyone who claims to know anything about the Jaguar
convertible. Only makes finding info harder.

If anyone can provide some factual info on this system, I’d be happy
to include it in my book – or maybe just a reference to the source,
so that H&E owners can find it for themselves.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: “John Littler” auibmdak@ibmmail.com
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 1996 22:04:18 EDT
Subject: XK8 Prices and Aust. car costs (little jag content)

Mike cogswell said, with regard to a thread on Aussie car prices

Geez, don’t you guys get to vote? Is this a byproduct of a plan to
massively discourage the use of luxury cars?
Yeah, we get to vote, but the only people (? thats probably being generou
calling them people) we get to vote for are politicians…
Yes it is an indirect attempt to discourage the use of luxury cars -
high income earners are taxed (both directly and indirectly) quite
punitively. Any vehicle costing more than $50000 AUD ($40,000 USD)
attracts a luxury car tax, and considering we have a tariff on all
incomingcars (I think it’s 20%) plus shipping costs from Europe whence
most luxury cars come are a fair bit to here, it doesn’t take much of a
car to have a landed cost greater than $40,000 US.

What is the price of
something a bit more basic, like a Honda Accord for example. When I
visited Austrailia recently I saw a TV ad for an Accord at something lik
AU$ 36,000. It appeared to be the equivavlent of my wife’s new accord,
which cost just under US$ 20,000.

OK lets compare apples with apples, $36000 AUD is roughly $29000 USD.

Take $20000 USD add 20% tariff ($4000) add shipping costs - your Honda is
made in the US isn’t it? - don’t know what it costs but say a $1000, the
difference is about $4000 US - that difference is probably a combination
of less economies of scale of purchase and dealership in Australia, the
population is a 10th of the US- therefore less cars sold. A less heavily
taxed business environment - dealer gross margins don’t have to be as
high to get the same net margin, POSSIBLY more ridiculous design
regulations (not sure on this one) - anything that our design rules
specify has to be in a car that no other country does will cost more per
unit to implement. (and prob half a doz. other things I haven’t thought
of)

I’ll have to do a bit of research and then I can put
up a number that represents earnings before any taxes required to buy an
XK-8. (And then I can translate that into Big Macs )

Good idea - then you could do a realistic “real world” comparison. The
concepts underpinning purchasing power parity have caused arguments in
economics for years, the basic principle’s OK but there’s so many if’s
and’s and but’s associated with actually making a valid comparison. The
big mac comparison for example is really only rule of thumb stuff because
there’s factors which mean that unless you’re using the big mac index to
compare the burger king prices (idea identical good) it’s not valid. For
example of one reason it’s often not very useful - in Japan due to heavy
protectionism of their agricultural sector mean the price of a “bigmaku”
is about 3 times what it would be if it was a sushi burger, i.e non-beef.

John

Level 1, 29-57 Christie St.
St Leonards NSW 2065
Ph: +61-2-9937-8063 Fax: +61-2-9937-8100

Mobile +61-419-617-619

From: “Robert Johnson, D.Sc.” bjomejag@sover.net
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 1996 22:06:02 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ6 series III headlight loss

Bruce Sawyer wrote:

This evening on the way home from work I tried to switch on the high beams.
However, all I managed to do was turn off all the head lights. By keeping
pressure on the switch the high beams work. But let go and only the
parking lights remain. Any ideas of where to start? Thanks for any help
you can provide.

This problem can be caused by the headlamp relay or the headlamp
switch. The relay can be serviced, although best to replace. Opening
the relay cover and lubricating the ratchet mechanism has worked well
for me. The headlamp switch is usually a dirty contact; again, best
solution is to replace.

Hope this helps,

Bob Johnson
Brattleboro, Vt.
XJ50, XJS, XJ12L

From: Kyle Chatman kchatman@mail.coin.missouri.edu
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 22:24:07 -0500
Subject: Two Birds – One Stone?

Bird 1: Like David Shield I have considered having a t-shirt made saying =
jag-lovers@sn.no to wear for those events when I might meet in person =
someone I have met here. Or maybe a pin or clasp or cap?=20
Bird 2: Beyond the tremendous sharing of talent and time, there are =
monetary expenses associated with jag-lovers that have been borne by =
some of our friends. (Being relatively new to the list I hope I’m right =
about all this?)
Stone: Perhaps some of our more talented friends could create a product =
that would carry the name and be sold at a reasonable profit to help =
support jag-lovers?

As I have said, I am relatively new but I have benefited much and I =
certainly want to contribute to the fiscal health of this activity. If =
cash is a better solution, that’s OK by me. Just thought I would throw =
out this idea.

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 15:40:07 -0005
Subject: (Fwd) I spit PATOO!

The following is the opinion of a non-jag-lover when discussing
Jaguar’s decision not to offer a manual transmission. I think it is
illuminating. BTW, the car he refers to is an early 70’s Dodge
Charger 440 Magnum with the infamous Mopar automatic transmission –
special ordered from the factory, purple with white top and white
interior.

------- Forwarded Message Follows -------
From: Palm1@htbbs.tdh.state.tx.us
To: slowness@bcfreenet.seflin.lib.fl.us
Date: 9 Oct 1996 11:34:58 CST
Subject: I spit PATOO!

K>From the guy who removed the GM400 from his Jaguar to bolt in the
5-speed, I must say minds are closed here! I hate automatics, but
even I am willing to keep an open mind until I drive the new XK8; all
reports are that the tranny is truly excellent, totally unlike the
crap the GM400 is. And since it can be shifted manually when desired,
what more could you want? The Jaguar engineers point out that it will
shift FASTER than anyone can possibly move a shifter, so couldn’t it
actually be a good thing?

From one who also owns a car with a “state-of-the-art” automatic when
it was built 25 years ago, which was touted as able to be shifted
manually when desired, and which was demonstrably superior to stick
shifts at the time in speed of shifts and getting power to the ground
(all drag cars had the auto, considerably quicker than the 4-speed), I
would say “blaaaaaugh!” to all the above. If the car is to be used as
a dragster, perhaps a good auto as an option would be nice. As a
sports car, speed of shifting is secondary to positive control, which
necessitates a CLUTCH. Many manufacturers have made all those same
claims, IOW, I’ll believe it when I see it. Meanwhile, not even having
an option of a stick in a “sports car” is unforgivable.

MW

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 01:20:08 -0005
Subject: Seat Mounting Bolts & Nuts - XJ-S

We had just recently been talking about the pleasure of working with
the seat mounting bolts and nuts on the XJ-S – notably, how much
enjoyment is derived trying to hold those rectangular nuts in place
while you get the bolts started. I suggested perhaps some clip nuts
might be found to replace the rectangular nuts that would hold
themselves in place.

So, tonight, while working on something else in the interior, I
happened to notice that my passenger’s seat needed some attention –
and that it would have to come out.

Since there’s no hurry, I decided I would try to find some suitable
clip nuts myself and have them on hand when I worked on the seat. Of
course, to do that I really need to know such pesky details as the
size of the bolt, some dimensional stuff about where the clip nut
would clip, etc. So I decided to go ahead and pull one of the front
corner bolts temporarily so I could get some measurements.

With the bolt in hand, I went to my collection of bolts to compare
the size. It is a 5/16" fine thread, so as I mentioned before I
doubt if I’ll find any clip nuts in fine thread, and plan to look for
coarse thread clip nuts and some new bolts to fit them.

Anyhow, while looking through my junk, I found a clip nut – it
looked right, too. I also picked up a 1" long 5/16" NC Allen head
bolt, and went back to the car to trial fit the combo. I expected
the clip nut would be close, but since the Allen head is considerably
taller than the original bolt head, I figured it would foul the
sliding seat rail. At least I could see how badly it fouled the seat
rail, and purchase new bolts accordingly, hopefully without having to
grind any heads for clearance.

So I slide the clip nut into place, and it fits PERFECTLY. I then
install the Allen head bolt (requires a 1/4" Allen wrench) and it
fits perfectly too! I looked down the rail, and there is plenty of
clearance for the taller head, even with the original lock washer
under it. In fact, the whole thing went together so
perfectly that I REALLY didn’t wanna take it back out, even though I
knew I would need the parts in hand to buy another 7 of each.

For those who don’t know clip nuts, I will describe as best I can;
an ASCII pic would never work here. This clip nut is made entirely
of sheet steel – how they form the threads I have NO idea, but it
ends up with about twice as much threading as that crappy rectangular
nut had. One end of the sheet metal is folded over to form a clip;
sometimes it’s just a short clip, but this one goes all the way back
over the threaded hole, with another hole for the bolt to pass
through. The distance from the threaded hole to the fold is
important; if it’s too short, the clip won’t go on far enough for the
holes to line up, and too long and it leaves the fold sticking out
the front of the seat mount and grabbing ladies’ stockings. Like I
said, this clip nut was perfect, and the distance from the center of
the threaded hole to the fold is 5/8".

Some clip nuts are designed to clip onto thin sheet metal and some
are designed to clip to thicker stuff. This one could probably
handle up to 1/8", so it clips onto the seat mount easily.

Also note that since the clip part of the clip nut ends up on top of
the seat mount, the bottom seat rail will actually be sitting on it

– or at least the washer under the seat rail will be sitting on it.
This is no problem, and is the way clip nuts are supposed to work.

Anybody planning to pull their seats out, I highly suggest you get a
set of these clip nuts and Allen head bolts before starting. It’ll
make reinstallation SO much easier.

Meanwhile, if I get a part number or other better description while
I’m at the hardware store getting 7 more, I’ll post it.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 15:40:08 -0005
Subject: XJ-S Seat Mount Bolts

difficult to get the Phillips screwdriver directly on the screws at
the back of the seat.
^^^^^^^^
Stefan Schulz:
They’re TORX in mine.

That is, IMHO, a significant improvement. In fact, I’ve been
thinking about getting some TORX or Allen screws to replace the
Phillips with, probably will the next time I’ve gotta fiddle with the
seat.

D’ya suppose finding just the right type of clip nut would help?
Pass. The only clip nuts I know are ones that fit into 19" electronics
racks, and they need a square cutout to fit.

No no no – drop into a Lowe’s or any good auto parts or hardware
store and you can find dozens of clip nuts, the type that fit around
the edge of a piece of sheet metal. Most of the smaller ones just
have a stamped hole to thread a sheet metal screw into, but nowadays
there are larger ones that actually have serious formed threads in
them. Seems to me that perhaps a suitable shaped one might be found
that would clip onto the floor mounts from the end, leaving the
threaded part inside where that obnoxious square nut presently sits,
and the clip part would be up on top so the seat would sit on it.

I suspect that most available clip nuts are coarse thread, so the
bolts themselves will need to be replaced. Suitable replacements
should be available at the same store. Gotta be careful about the
shape of the head, so that it doesn’t interfere with the travel of
the seat rail.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 08:02:02 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: Putting in the crossover pipe (XJS)

When removing the water pump the Haynes manual says remove the crankshaft
pully. I have several problems with that aside from the fact that its not
needed, its not easy and means you have to remove the starter which adds
more work. “The starter you say?”, yes, the starter so that you can jamb
the flywheel to remove/replace the crank nut which is at 150 ft pounds.

You don’t need to remove the starter to jam the flywheel. Once you have removed
the upper part of the pully (the one which drives 3 belts), you can easily
use it’s 2 screws to attach a home-made bar on the damper.

- Matthias

From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 96 02:54:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Putting in the crossover pipe (XJS)

From: SHANE MANTOSZKO IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST
* Resending note of 10/10/96 16:34
* SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FE21
* INTERNET - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM * IBMMAIL - AUIBMSPM **
Subject: Re: Putting in the crossover pipe (XJS)

When removing the water pump the Haynes manual says remove the crankshaft
pully. I have several problems with that aside from the fact that its not
needed, its not easy and means you have to remove the starter which adds
more work. “The starter you say?”, yes, the starter so that you can jamb
the flywheel to remove/replace the crank nut which is at 150 ft pounds.

u don’t need to remove the starter to jam the flywheel. Once you have removed
the upper part of the pully (the one which drives 3 belts), you can easily
use it’s 2 screws to attach a home-made bar on the damper.

Matthias

Or even use a good long handled socket/torsion wrench, put it on the
front crank nut, brace it on a strong part of the engine bay, disconnect
the coil, and then turn your ignition key for a few quick bursts, and
voila, the crank nut will be loose…hard part is then re-tightening it,
but a ratchet gun worked for me.

From: Cosmo simond@inflon.informix.com
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 09:58:48 +0100
Subject: Re: Polished E-Type [was: Re: XK’s Unlimited open house]

Mike Cogswell wrote:

 I don't look down at people who try to maintain a car in perfect
 "like-new" condition, but I have to admit I don't understand how cars
 that are chromed and polished way beyond the way they were originally
 can be judged so highly.

 Any of you judges?  If so, how about a discussion of how things are
 judged for originality, especially for appearance?

I’m not a judge but I do think it a little absurd the lengths to
which concours owners (oops almost said drivers) go to keep their
cars in “like-new” condition. This was proved to me a while ago
when a motoring program discovered an XK120 (or maybe 140) that
had practicaly never been used with something like less than 300
miles on the clock and stored since being purchased.

It was entirely as-new but would never had won a bean at a concours
event. Jaguar build quality ensured that the shut lines were uneven,
the underseal was patchy, interior didn’t fit etc. A far cry from
the people who paint the inside of their exhaust pipes to make it
appear “newer”. Poor saps.

Cosmo

83 XJ6 4.2
65 Mustang 289

From: “Claus, Mike” claus@wg.com
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 96 08:07:20 EST
Subject: Re[3]: Leather Interior

I don’t think there is a simple answer. It seems to vary from year to year
and market to market. Judging from all the photos and descriptions I’ve
seen, the XJ-S generally gained increasing amounts of leather and wood as
the years passed. My '88 brochure describes both the seats and doors as
leather covered. The later 6-cyl XJ-S in the US market probably has less
leather than the V-12, just as it lacks the trip computer and several other
features. On my XJ-S, the instrument panel is black, while on newer XJ-Ss
I’ve seen wood ones (at least on ones with round gauges.)

Here is a data point. I have a late model ('93) XJ-S 6-cyl. It is pretty much
ALL leather - seat sides and backs are definitely the same as the seating
surfaces. Door lining is leather too. The dash certainly feels like leather.

Also plenty of wood. Only a few places where they might have put wood but
didn’t - Instrument panel is not wood - but a black material - with round
gauges. The transmission shift knob is metal/plastic combo - a little ugly.
(anybody know where to buy a nice wooden replacement handle?)

In later years I am pretty sure that Jaguar has listened to it’s customers in
the luxury car market in the US - they want all the pampering stuff - and they
won’t buy without it.

Went to see the XK-8 yesterday. Looks like all leather there too - so the trend
continues. Definitely too much wood.

- mclaus ('93 XJ-S Convertible)

From: DODSON@AESIR.MIT.EDU
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 9:12:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: A question of paint color for restoration

From: George Dodson, Dodson@Bates.MIT.Edu
Date: 10/Oct/1996
Subj: A quesion of paint color for restoration

Dear Jag Lovers,

Mine is a fairly sinple question. I have begun, at long last, a
more serious effort to restore my 59 XK 150-S. Jaguar Cars confirmed
my suspicion that the original color was Mist Gray with a red interior.
It is now Imperial Maroon over BRG, over Old English White over the
original Mist Gray. The dash and door panels are black dye over red.
The seats are black snd not original. The question is: How important
is it to put back the original color? I don’t want to insult anyone,
but Mist Gray/Red is not what I would have picked if I had been
walking around the new car lot. Several years ago at a JANE show I
saw an XK 140 in Old English White with a Fawn interior which was
so lovely even my wife liked it (this is not an insignificant
consideration). What do you think? Should we try to hold true to
the original or create what we would have liked it to be?
Is there a source for paint codes somewhere on the Net? If
not does someone have a file that they could e-mail me?

                                      George Dodson
                                      Dodson@Bates.MIT.Edu

From: kkrofft@juno.com (Kordon E. Krofft)
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 09:13:32 PST
Subject: Front end alignment

All this discussion of alignment comes at a very opportune time as our 79
XJ6 is in dire need of adjustment after the replacement of the front
bushings. I was very interested to read that most shops have incorrect
specs for this
work. Could someone please relate the proper settings so I can assure
they do it right.
The car is a 79 1/2 SIII XJ6.
Thanks all.

Kory Krofft
64 XKE Cpe.
79 XJ6

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 09:25:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Re[2]: V12 Radiator drains

Mike: No,cause you could tell if it was, by the teltale marks of the
solder. As I said it was a surprise to me.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212 USA 803 798 3044On
Wed, 9 Oct 1996, Mike Cogswell wrote:

 What year XJ-S had the drain?  Any chance is was added?
 
 MikeC
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: V12 Radiator drains
Author: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu at Internet
Date: 10/9/1996 8:35 AM

Mark: Hate to disagree with you, but the other day while working on an S
with the screw on trans cooler lines, I noticed that it had a drain codk
on it… Had to look twice to believe it, for I as you believed the drain
cock to be a thing of the past, but there it was.

Chad Bolles

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #420

Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4)
id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Thu, 10 Oct 1996 18:24:28 +0200 (MET DST)
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 18:24:28 +0200 (MET DST)
Message-Id: 199610101624.SAA02023@ekeberg.sn.no
X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f
From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #421
Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Precedence: bulk
X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest

jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 10 October 1996 Volume 02 : Number 421

Re: AC Compressors
Re: Putting in the crossover pipe (XJS)
Re: Front end alignment
Re: Doh! Big mistake in previous message
Re[2]: 62 E, oil pressure too high
Re[2]: Art vs. Cars [was: Polished E-type]
Re: V12 Radiator drains
Jack Stand Prices in Denver Colorado USA
A question of paint color for restoration
Re: AC Compressors
Re: A question of paint color for restoration
Floor Jacks
JACK STAND WARNING!!!
Re: Front end alignment
Re: Putting in the crossover pipe (XJS)
Re: Seat Mounting Bolts & Nuts - XJ-S
Re[2]: A question of paint color for restoration
Re: V12 Radiator drains

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 09:32:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: AC Compressors

Greg: Where do you live??? You should have an Autozone, Advance Auto,Pep
Boys or Western Auto in your town. Compressor fits a Chev, you just need
one with the metric bolts in it and superheat. Switch is located in the
rear of the comp, held in with a snap ring. The rebuilt comp that you
will get from one of the stores for around $69-109 with clutch, will have
a plug in the place the superheat switch fits. Most of the cars that I
work on have had the switch bypassed anyway, so I usually leave the plug
in place, but that is up to you.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212 USA 803 798 3044On
Wed, 9 Oct 1996, Gregory W. Price wrote:

My '85VdP needs an A/C compressor. I have the type with the superheat
switch, which is about 100 bucks more than the compressor without the
superheat switch. What is a superheat switch, and can I either supplant the
one I have, or use the other compressor and ignore the superheat switch?

TIA
Greg.
              Gregory W. Price & Company, Ltd

        Business research and information management 
                for those who need it most.
                      1-800-670-5491

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 09:39:28 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Putting in the crossover pipe (XJS)

Jim: Why or Why remove the starter, when you can remove the dust shield
for the trans and do the same thing, and the dust shield comes of with no
problem.
Besides if the car has 50,000 plus miles on it the front seal is most
likley leaking or seeping at the very least, and it sure is much easier
to replace it at the same time.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212 USA 803 798 3044

From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 08:43:27 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Front end alignment

On Wed, 9 Oct 1996, Robert J. Richardson wrote:

Today I decided to arrange to have my front end aligned (1987 XJ6) as

pretty bewildered by this point and did not pursue it further. I guess
I’ll need to take it to the Jag shop, but is this really that
complicated a job? Or are these guys just FOS?

Steve Coleman, Gadsden, AL
1987 XJ6 x2

Join my club! I’ve been getting the same resistance here in Athens, Ohio.

These guys are FOS. I wouldn’t trust alignment of a lump to them. If you
want to drive down to Auburn, I’ll introduce you to the guy who–when the
need arises–keeps my SII heading true. He’s not a Jag dealer, and he’s
not limited to foreign cars. He just knows how to align cars.

There is no magic to aligning automobiles, but, to do it right–the only
way an alignment is at all useful–the guy doing it HAS to know the
things that are common and those that are unique to various cars, like
Jaguars’ shims. (Having, and being able and willing to read, some
manuals helps, too.) He also HAS to appreciate careful and accurate work.

Larry Lee
Auburn, Alabama
1979 XJ4.2, SII

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 09:43:31 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Doh! Big mistake in previous message

Ryan: Scuse me for sticking my nose in here, but if you are working on
the front end of the car why not use the packing spacers that are under
the bottom of the spring to adjust the front end. This is so much easier
than cutting a spring.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212 USA 803 798 3044On
Wed, 9 Oct 1996, Ryan Border wrote:

Doh!

Basic math skills fail me…

I wrote:

Say your measured distance between coils is 1.625"
And, suppose you want to lower that corner 0.75".

0.75" / (1 compressed coils / 1.625") / 1.9 => 0.641 compressed coils.

Of course this should have read

0.75" * (1 compressed coil / 1.625") / 1.9 => 0.243 compressed coils.
^^^
and

What we want to cut is 0.641 coils, or 0.359 coils short of the mark we
just made. Start at the “1 coil” mark, and go 129 (0.359*360) degrees
towards the tip and that’s your cutting mark.

should have been:
What we want to cut is 0.243 coils, or 0.757 coils short of the mark we
just made. Start at the “1 coil” mark, and go 272 (0.757*360) degrees
towards the tip and that’s your cutting mark.

Is it Friday yet?
Ryan.

From: Steve_Kemp_at_NBD@pcmail.tellabs.com
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 96 08:23:51 CST
Subject: Re[2]: 62 E, oil pressure too high

As I told John, but failed to send to the group, I had done basically the same
on a previous E-type, but was able to obtain a Smiths gauge that appeared
identical to the electrical variety. The oil leak is caused by not having the
proper Smiths fittings (I also had the same experience when trying to use
standard US fittings). These gauges are much more reliable (although
non-authentic) than the originals, as they will give an immediate reading.

Steve Kemp

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: 62 E, oil pressure too high
Author: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com at smtplink-tellabs
Date: 10/9/96 8:43 PM

All:

To those who asked, the PO of my car installed a mechanical oil pressure
guage in the space normally occupied by the electrical guage. The face of
the meter reads ‘Autometer 2421’ that is as much as I know about who made
it. It is exactly the same size as the original, but has a red pointer, so
it is a minor eysore. There is a simple fitting in place of the normal
sending unit, which allows attachment of a capilary tube. The tube enters
the dash thru the same grommet as the choke cable. By the way, a small
amount of oil seeps from this capilary into the interior of the car, making
the Jag experience that much more complete.

Mike Frank
1969 E-Type

At 06:19 PM 10/8/96 -0700, you wrote:

Hi Michael,

I’m curious too about a mechanical oil pressure gauge for
a 62 e-type. Could you email me the details as well?

Thanks in advance,

Ken

John:

60 PSI is not dangerously high. My 4.2 E-Type fluctuates between 25-35 PSI
at idle, and 50-65 PSI at speed. The only way you would be blowing smoke at
this pressure is if your head gasket had given way. Things to check:

1.What is your RPM at idle? Should be about 600, give or take 100.
Higher speed>higher pressure.

Bypass may be stuck or obstructed.

Oil filer may be clogged.

Bad guage or sensor.

The PO of my car installed a mechanical guage. I will check the make
tonight, and E-mail you.

Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2

At 08:38 AM 10/8/96 MDT, you wrote:

I have a problem with oil pressure on my 62 E type. Recently, after
l
Is there a mechanical oil pressure gauge available with the correct thread
that I could put in to verify the pressure?

From: Steve_Kemp_at_NBD@pcmail.tellabs.com
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 96 08:39:37 CST
Subject: Re[2]: Art vs. Cars [was: Polished E-type]

I think owners (or drivers, for that matter) can be separated into those who
collect them for the pleasure of driving them or the pleasure of looking at
them, or both. If it is being viewed as art, you probably would want it to look
at its best. If it is for driving, that’s a different story. And, of course,
there is some middle ground.

The problem I’ve personally had in restoring is trying to decide which of
Jaguars’ manufacturing flaws should be removed and which shouldn’t. Certainly
poor fitting doors are something that can detract from the overall package in
any event. However, you’re right in that they came that way. Conversely, I find
an occasional lead dribble, sloppy weld or stamping flaw perfectly normal.

Like anything, I suppose it’s personal taste and most of us being individuals,
there’s going to be lots of variation.

There’s been talk in concours circles of initializing another class for those
cars, like the XK mentioned below, that restoration would do more damage than
good but can’t compete at the Pebble Beach level. Save the Pebble Beach
restorations for cars that were too shot to be driven or shown in the first
place. Unfortunately, this describes most of the E-types I’ve owned.

Any thoughts?

Steve Kemp

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Polished E-Type [was: Re: XK’s Unlimited open house]
Author: Cosmo simond@inflon.informix.com at smtplink-tellabs
Date: 10/10/96 5:43 AM

Mike Cogswell wrote:

 I don't look down at people who try to maintain a car in perfect
 "like-new" condition, but I have to admit I don't understand how cars 
 that are chromed and polished way beyond the way they were originally 
 can be judged so highly.

 Any of you judges?  If so, how about a discussion of how things are 
 judged for originality, especially for appearance?

I’m not a judge but I do think it a little absurd the lengths to
which concours owners (oops almost said drivers) go to keep their
cars in “like-new” condition. This was proved to me a while ago
when a motoring program discovered an XK120 (or maybe 140) that
had practicaly never been used with something like less than 300
miles on the clock and stored since being purchased.

It was entirely as-new but would never had won a bean at a concours
event. Jaguar build quality ensured that the shut lines were uneven,
the underseal was patchy, interior didn’t fit etc. A far cry from the
people who paint the inside of their exhaust pipes to make it appear
“newer”. Poor saps.

Cosmo

83 XJ6 4.2
65 Mustang 289

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 09:52:56 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: V12 Radiator drains

Jim: Why not slip a piece of rubber hose over the drain cock long enough
to drop down past the sub frame.
By the way the General is dead.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212 USA 803 798 3044

  "Variety is the Spice of Life, Satisfaction is Death"
                   Chad Bolles 1958

On Wed, 9 Oct 1996, Jim Isbell wrote:

My 1985 XJS has the clamp in transmission hoses and does have a drain.

However the drain is virtualy worthless since it drains out horizontaly and
onto the front suspension and is virtualy impossible to catch in anything
smaller than a bath tub.

I asket the radiator shop that rodded it to solder a small elbo ont ot to
make it drain down but they would not do it for fear that the heat would
dammage the seals in the drain cock.

Does anyone have a suggestion to solve the drain mess?

Oh, by the way ( boy, am I going to sneak this one in on them! ). I prefer
the discussion of Beer and Burbon or the Beauty of the SIII/Mark II to the
discussion of the XJ8 since I dont think there is one XJ8 owner on the list
yet and very few with the wherewithall to become XJ8 owners. At least I can
own a can of beer, a bottle of burbon, a series III or a Mark II (I actualy
own 3 out of four). The XJ8 discussion takes up 50% of the more recent
digests while the beer/burbon/series III/MarkII discussion takes up less than 5%
     JIM I.
“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”
                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: “Himes,John W.” jwh@mime.dw.lucent.com
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 96 08:04:00 PDT
Subject: Jack Stand Prices in Denver Colorado USA

I did remember to look at the jack stand prices yesterday while I was at
Checker Auto Parts getting some brake fluid. They had a 2 ton capacity
stand for $10, or a box of 2 4 ton capacity for $20.

They had an El cheapo floor jack (small one ) for about $20 or $30 and some
better ones starting at about $40+ but were out of stock at the store I was
at so I really did not get to look and see how they looked.

Myself I have 4 - 2 ton stands & works great for my 4000+ lbs XJ-S. ( also
have 4 more stands, but they are not a nice )

The 3 ton capacity floor jack I have was about $60.
( all prices quoted are in approximate US dollars )

John Himes
88 XJ-S 98K Miles

From: “Alastair Lauener” a.lauener@napier.ac.uk
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 96 15:26:26 gmt
Subject: A question of paint color for restoration

George Dodson asked re XK150

The question is: How important
is it to put back the original color? I don’t want to insult anyone,
but Mist Gray/Red is not what I would have picked if I had been
walking around the new car lot. Several years ago at a JANE show I
saw an XK 140 in Old English White with a Fawn interior which was
so lovely even my wife liked it (this is not an insignificant
consideration).

George, it is your car, you and yor wife know what you like, make it as you
would like and enjoy it.

Alastair Lauener
64 3.4 S-Type

From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 09:32:22 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: AC Compressors

On Wed, 9 Oct 1996, Gregory W. Price wrote:

My '85VdP needs an A/C compressor. I have the type with the superheat
switch, which is about 100 bucks more than the compressor without the
superheat switch. What is a superheat switch, and can I either supplant the
one I have, or use the other compressor and ignore the superheat switch?

Greg,

Jaguar uses a stock Harrison (GM) A/C compressor that you can find almost
anywhere. The superheat, or “hot gas” switch is a device to protect the
compressor from overheating in certain situations. Many systems either
do not have one, or have had them disabled. While I am not a fan of
disabling devices that protect equipment, this one seldom comes into play
in a properly maintained and charged system (note the last phrase).

In many of the Harrison compressors, the hot gas switch plugs into the
back of the unit, so you may be able to re-use your existing switch if
you wish.

Larry Lee

From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 10:46:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: A question of paint color for restoration

George:

Ahhh…a philosophical question! It comes down to this: what do you
intend to do with the car? If your intention is show, then originality is
absolutely required, right down to the last nut or bolt.

But given that the car has had four full paint jobs already, it probably
isn’t the best candidate for show, anyhow. If your intention is to use it as
an an occasional car, then I say do your thing, but try to keep it in good
taste. A major consideration is your wife’s approval. Having been thru this
myself, I can tell you that your life will be much happier if you can draw
her into the hobby: a color change is a small price to pay, especially if
you agree on color. Remember that this is YOUR car, not OURS. Even if every
jag-lover on the planet was deeply offended by you plan, so what? But to be
fair to the next owner, keep the best records you can, and be honest about
any changes.

There has been quite a bit of discussion about paint colors on the list. I
don’t think anyone has come up with a good source for this info.

Michael Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2 (Signal Red courtesy of PO, formerly Regency Red)

At 09:12 AM 10/10/96 -0400, you wrote:

From: George Dodson, Dodson@Bates.MIT.Edu
Date: 10/Oct/1996
Subj: A quesion of paint color for restoration

Dear Jag Lovers,

Mine is a fairly sinple question. I have begun, at long last, a
more serious effort to restore my 59 XK 150-S. Jaguar Cars confirmed
my suspicion that the original color was Mist Gray with a red interior.
It is now Imperial Maroon over BRG, over Old English White over the
original Mist Gray. The dash and door panels are black dye over red.
The seats are black snd not original. The question is: How important
is it to put back the original color? I don’t want to insult anyone,
but Mist Gray/Red is not what I would have picked if I had been
walking around the new car lot. Several years ago at a JANE show I
saw an XK 140 in Old English White with a Fawn interior which was
so lovely even my wife liked it (this is not an insignificant
consideration). What do you think? Should we try to hold true to
the original or create what we would have liked it to be?
Is there a source for paint codes somewhere on the Net? If
not does someone have a file that they could e-mail me?
                                     George Dodson
                                     Dodson@Bates.MIT.Edu

From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 09:07:02 +0700
Subject: Floor Jacks

Sears has (at least my Sears in Santa Fe, NM) a large, shop-style
3-ton floor jack on sale for $79.00. Naturally, it went on sale
after I bought my “home mechanic” style 3-ton floor jack at Checker
Auto. I would of course preferred the larger, sturdier Sears jack,
but poor timing being the perpetual curse to my life…

Greg Price

From: LLoyd 3030P@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 96 08:15:55 PDT
Subject: JACK STAND WARNING!!!

Having grown up working after school and weekends in a garqage, I have not
mentioned this before because I just assumed…
NEVER support a car on 4 jack stands. It isn’t safe. They are for supporting
either the front OR the back, if you are lifting up only one end of the vehicle
. If you are lifting the entire vehicle use jack stands on one end only. Put
the other end on blocks or ramps.
Personally, when I’m under a car with jack stands, I also have my hydrolic
jack supporting a bit of weight between them, just in case. I may be a sissy,
but I’ve spent some time trapped under a car when it fell on me.
But that’s another story…
LLoyd - I prefer Coors -

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 11:40:14 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Front end alignment

On Tue, 8 Oct 1996, Steve Coleman wrote:

I’ll need to take it to the Jag shop, but is this really that
complicated a job? Or are these guys just FOS?

You should have told them your Jag had a Chevy motor in it. They’d have
done the alignment straight away.

John

From: mfl%kheops.cray.com@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 08:02:02 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: Re: Putting in the crossover pipe (XJS)

But easiest of all;

needed, its not easy and means you have to remove the starter which adds
more work. “The starter you say?”, yes, the starter so that you can jamb
the flywheel to remove/replace the crank nut which is at 150 ft pounds.
<
<You don’t need to remove the starter to jam the flywheel. Once you have remove
<the upper part of the pully (the one which drives 3 belts), you can easily
<use it’s 2 screws to attach a home-made bar on the damper.

I just put her in 4th, and set the emergency brake.

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 12:01:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: Seat Mounting Bolts & Nuts - XJ-S

On Thu, 10 Oct 1996, Kirbert wrote:

For those who don’t know clip nuts, I will describe as best I can;
an ASCII pic would never work here. This clip nut is made entirely
of sheet steel – how they form the threads I have NO idea, but it
ends up with about twice as much threading as that crappy rectangular
nut had. One end of the sheet metal is folded over to form a clip;

Your description sounds like the thingies (are they called Tinnermans
orsomething like that?) that are used to secure electronic equipment in
racks. Some of these have a captive nut attached and some are one piece.

John

From: “KENNETH M GILSON” kgilson@ccmail.unl.edu
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 96 11:09:01 CST
Subject: Re[2]: A question of paint color for restoration

saw an XK 140 in Old English White with a Fawn interior which was

so lovely even my wife liked it (this is not an insignificant
consideration). What do you think? Should we try to hold true to
the original or create what we would have liked it to be?
Is there a source for paint codes somewhere on the Net? If
not does someone have a file that they could e-mail me?
                                     George Dodson
                                     Dodson@Bates.MIT.Edu 

GEORGE,
As Michael said it is YOUR jaguar do as you please. I painted my '64 a
carmen red with a black interior, the original color was a light
metallic blue. I did stay with a jag color for that year.
Visit your friendly auto paint store and most often they will have a
book on the color samples plus the formula’s. The smallest mix I can get
is a pint container which can be used to see if you like the color. I
removed EVERY inch of the blue before I started my quest. Good luck .

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 12:24:01 -0005
Subject: Re: V12 Radiator drains

Isbell:

My 1985 XJS has the clamp in transmission hoses and does have a drain.

However the drain is virtualy worthless since it drains out horizontaly and
onto the front suspension and is virtualy impossible to catch in anything
smaller than a bath tub.

I asket the radiator shop that rodded it to solder a small elbo ont ot to
make it drain down but they would not do it for fear that the heat would
dammage the seals in the drain cock.

Does anyone have a suggestion to solve the drain mess?

Sure. Take a piece of thin-wall rubber hose and fasten it to the end
of the valve. The valve, a paragon of British design, doesn’t even
provide a suitable place to attach a hose, but it does have a little
lip to it. Once you get a piece of hose over it, you can wrap some
steel wire around it and twist it tight. The wire will pull the
flexible hose down behind that lip so it won’t fall off. Then, with
about 6" of hose, you can aim that drain in any direction you want.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #421

Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4)
id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Thu, 10 Oct 1996 19:17:51 +0200 (MET DST)
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 19:17:51 +0200 (MET DST)
Message-Id: 199610101717.TAA14337@ekeberg.sn.no
X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f
From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #422
Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Precedence: bulk
X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest

jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 10 October 1996 Volume 02 : Number 422

Re: AC Compressors
Serial Number strangeness
[none]
Re[2]: Putting in the crossover pipe (XJS)
Leather and Wood
Re[2]: Polished E-Type [was: Re: XK’s Unlimited open house]

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 12:24:01 -0005
Subject: Re: AC Compressors

Chad Bolles:

Greg: Where do you live??? You should have an Autozone, Advance Auto,Pep
Boys or Western Auto in your town. Compressor fits a Chev, you just need
one with the metric bolts in it and superheat.

You don’t need the metric bolts. SAE bolts will work fine, unless
you’re anal enough that you need to use the original bolts!

Switch is located in the
rear of the comp, held in with a snap ring. The rebuilt comp that you
will get from one of the stores for around $69-109 with clutch, will have
a plug in the place the superheat switch fits. Most of the cars that I
work on have had the switch bypassed anyway, so I usually leave the plug
in place, but that is up to you.

Actually, it’s not up to you; the superheat switch will not fit in a
compressor that was not made to have one, and most are made for a
pressure switch these days. Best bet: just plan on abandoning the
superheat switch and the 3-way fuse.

By the way, one fundamental difference: the pressure switch is
closed when all is OK and opens when pressure is low, so the clutch
is generally grounded through it. The superheat switch that comes
on the Jag, however, is open when everything is OK and closes to
cause a short and blow the 3-way fuse when temp is too high. So,
the wiring to the clutch goes through the fuse, and a third wire
goes to the superheat switch which must NOT be grounded in order for
the system to work.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: LLoyd 3030P@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 96 09:17:06 PDT
Subject: Serial Number strangeness

With the help of several Jag Lovers, much head scratching, searching, ques-
tioning, and an appropriate amount of nose picking, I have come up with the
following ‘strangities’ associated with the serial numbers on my Jag. For
anyone wondering about their numbers, this may be of help, or at least, in-
terest. My car was made in 8-1970, one of the last series II “E” types to
roll off the assembly line, and a US import.
My original question had to do with distinguishing between the body number
and the vehicle ID number. Fortunately, I kept a copy of the previous title, an
d when I got my Calif. title, they mistakenly used my body number instead of
the vehicle ID number on the title. I also have an original listing of
serial numbers that came with the car when it was new.
The vehicle ID number is stamped on a piece of aluminum on the left side ‘A’
post. Body numbers are on the box frame, left door sill and under the trunk lid
on the body.
Date Of Manufacture 8-1970 (last one made in 10-1970)
Vehicle ID 2R13939
Body Number P2R13939 (same-same with leading P)
Engine NO. 7Rnnnnn-9 (n is a number, -9 is 9:1 compression, -8 would be 8:1)
Tranny No. KEnnnnn

The body number vs. ID number had me confused for a while, but thanks to one
of the list members (can’t remember who right now) I verified this.
LLoyd -no beer content, no prettiest content -

From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 19:04:57 +0200
Subject: [none]

From jag-lovers-digest-owner@sn.no Thu Oct 10 11:03:17 1996
Received: from ekeberg.sn.no (126@ekeberg.sn.no [194.143.8.8]) by smtp.internetdesign.com (8.6.10) id LAA08027; Thu, 10 Oct 1996 11:03:14 -0600
Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4)
id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Thu, 10 Oct 1996 15:31:26 +0200 (MET DST)
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 15:31:26 +0200 (MET DST)
Message-Id: 199610101331.PAA22999@ekeberg.sn.no
X-Authentication-Warning: ekeberg.sn.no: majordom set sender to owner-jag-lovers-digest using -f
From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Reply-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #420
Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
Precedence: bulk

jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 10 October 1996 Volume 02 : Number 420

XK8 on Speed Vision
Re[2]: Leather Interior
Re: H&E Convertible Fuel System
XK8 Prices and Aust. car costs (little jag content)
Re: XJ6 series III headlight loss
Two Birds – One Stone?
(Fwd) I spit PATOO!
Seat Mounting Bolts & Nuts - XJ-S
XJ-S Seat Mount Bolts
Re: Putting in the crossover pipe (XJS)
Re: Putting in the crossover pipe (XJS)
Re: Polished E-Type [was: Re: XK’s Unlimited open house]
Re[3]: Leather Interior
A question of paint color for restoration
Front end alignment
Re: Re[2]: V12 Radiator drains

From: Frank Perrick frankp@mscnet.net
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 1996 20:36:57 -0400
Subject: XK8 on Speed Vision

Jaguar bought a lengthy spot on speedvision net work,I scrambled for a
tape and caught about %70 of it . It’s a very well done comercial
showing all aspects of the production and driving of the XK8. It’s in a
lexus style format lots of sureal type shots extremly well done with
interviews from factory employees that build the XK8. About 10 mins in
length?? Hope this airs on more common networkss for all to enjoy.
Frank P.

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Wed, 9 Oct 1996 20:26:32 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: Leather Interior

This is a Mime message, which your current mail reader
may not understand. Parts of the message will appear as
text. To process the remainder, you will need to use a Mime
compatible mail reader. Contact your vendor for details.

- –IMA.Boundary.147709448
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
  Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
  Content-Description: cc:Mail note part

I don’t think there is a simple answer. It seems to vary from year to year
and market to market. Judging from all the photos and descriptions I’ve
seen, the XJ-S generally gained increasing amounts of leather and wood as
the years passed. My '88 brochure describes both the seats and doors as
leather covered. The later 6-cyl XJ-S in the US market probably has less
leather than the V-12, just as it lacks the trip computer and several other
features. On my XJ-S, the instrument panel is black, while on newer XJ-Ss
I’ve seen wood ones (at least on ones with round gauges.)

On my '74 E-Type the only leather is the actual seating surfaces, all the rest of the seats and the entire rest of the interior is one of two types of vinyl. I also have brochures where different models of the XJ-6 are clearly described as having different amounts of leather. For example, the '93 XJ-6 (XJ-40) is described as having leather faced seats while the VDP version is described as having full leather seat trim, handbrake grip, sun visors, console, armrests and map pockets. MikeC ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Re: Leather Interior Author: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com at Internet Date: 10/9/1996 1:49 PM Kirbert: Every car brochure I have seen in recent years describes leather upholstery as ‘leather seating surfaces’. I have always assumed that this means a combination of cowhide and naugahide. The practice must go back a long way: the seat backs on my '69 E-Type appear to be synthetic. Mike Frank At 12:01 PM 10/9/96 -0005, you wrote:

Chad Bolles:

Yes the entire interior should be leather.

Actually, I’m not sure ANY of them are entirely leather. On mine,
many of the parts of the seat that don’t touch occupants are vinyl.
It’s my understanding that most – if not all – of the cars are this
way.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

- –IMA.Boundary.147709448–