Jag-lovers-digest V2 #485

owner-jag-lovers-di1 · November 1, 1996, 1:55am

jag-lovers-digest Friday, 1 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 485

GM Tranny in S-Type (Half-a-lump)
RE: Suggestion
Re: XJS H.E.
Unbelievable service
Re: XJ6 Ser. 1 headlight conversion
Re: Fuel changeover switch (sorry but NO suggestion content)
Storage advice in Australia
MK II suspension rebuild resource
Perfect E-Type On Display in Yorkshire
No Sunroof On '85 Sovereign HE?
Re: XJS H.E.
XKE - Oil leakeage
RE: XJS H.E.
XJS Purchase
XJS tail lamp
re: MKII suspension rebuild resource
Re: Engine wiring harness
XJ6 SI headlight conversions
Re: Split the List? Here we go again…
Re: XJ6 Ser. 1 headlight conversion
Re: XJS H.E.
Re: Wood refinshing - XJ40----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Jim Goring jgoring@FGS.com
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 13:08:51 +0000
Subject: GM Tranny in S-Type (Half-a-lump)

Hello all…

the GMT700R4 has arrived and awaits transplant surgery into the belly of
Bageera, my '65 Stype. I am quite excited about this, as i’ve heard the
4 speed tranny improves both off the line acceleration, and freeway
smoothness and fuel economy (RPM at 60 mph will drop from about 3,000 to
a little over 2,100… i think). All this, plus it may actually get out
of first gear, which the current busted BW unit wont do.

Installation to occur in a couple of weeks, will keep you posted.

IT WILL RIDE AGAIN!

Jim Goring

Frank, Goring & Straja Architects jgoring@FGS.com
1144 65th Street Voice: (510) 595 9000
Oakland, CA 94608 Fax: (510) 595 9209

From: “The Honjos” fm7m-hnjy@asahi-net.or.jp
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 06:29:05 +0900
Subject: RE: Suggestion

Why dont we put into the FAQ a note saying, dont bring up “Lumps”,
“Splitting the list”, “Which car is pretiest”, etc. under threat of expulsion.
                                                        Jim

I would certainly second this opinion. Many of the topics discussed
on this list actually has relevance to Jags of all (or most) years.

Makoto Honjo
Phone/Fax +81-3-3473-1848

From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 16:29:57 -0500
Subject: Re: XJS H.E.

On Oct 31, 3:49pm, Christopher Margiotti wrote:

Subject: XJS H.E.
What does H.E. stand for? I love the XJSs, especially the old ones with
the butresses.

Did they ever get rid of the butress on the coupe? I suppose I should know
this. :-/ I know they changed a bunch of stuff at the time they did the new
tail lamp, but did they change the C-pillar (a.k.a. the flying butress) too?

Mark McChesney

From: “MarrioSD” marriosd@ccmail.apldbio.com
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 96 14:52:53 PDT
Subject: Unbelievable service

Hi

I recently asked for some advise regards having my carbs rebuilt. Weather to buy
the rebuild or service kit.

I got a lot of good advise, thanks to everybody who replied.

Being as the bushes on my carbs were badly worn, they needed changing. I
contacted Burlen Fuel systems in the UK (they make SU carbs) and asked for
advise.

They recommended the rebuild kits and if I sent them the carb bodies they would
remove the bushes, spindles and butterfly valves from the kit and install them.
They also agreed to remove the broken (sheared) banjo bolt that was stuck in the
front fuel chamber.

To cut a long story short I gave a small box with the parts in to a colleague
who was traveling to the UK and asked him to post them on Monday 21st Oct.

I was on vacation until the 29th Oct, the parts were waiting for me at my home
in Livermore when I returned.

The bushes, spindles and butterflies installed. The banjo bolt removed and the
rest of the kits ready for me to finish the rebuild.

GOOD SERVICE is still available. Total cost including shipping (Fed Ex) $240,
moral of the story, if your carbs are suspect you could quite perceivably remove
them, have them rebuilt and back on the car in under 2 weeks.

The guy I bought my ‘S’ type off sold the original engine for $580 and fitted a
V8 because he could not get it to run right. Apparently the guy who bought the
engine had the carbs rebuilt and it ran like a dream!

Steve.

From: “Tracy A. Ferrell” tracy@brooktree.com
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 14:21:32 -0800
Subject: Re: XJ6 Ser. 1 headlight conversion

I changed the headlights in my Series III XJ6 to 7" this past year, although
I was able to use a standard 7" sealed beam halogen bulb here in California.
A jag-lover list member, Robert Dingli, shipped me the headlight buckets and
chrome trim from Australia. The buckets already had the wires with the
connectors on them. All I had to do was fish the wires up through the
fenders and plug them in.

You could try and get the parts through one of our Canadian jag-lovers.
According to Robert, headlight trim is becoming scarce in Australian
breakers in his area.

Regards,

Tracy A. Ferrell tracy@brooktree.com in Sunny San Diego, CA, USA
tractf@inetworld.net
http://www.inetworld.net/~tracyf

From: “David Tordoff” dtordoff@flash.net
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 16:11:08 -0600
Subject: Re: Fuel changeover switch (sorry but NO suggestion content)

Does anyone know the proper way to remove the left/right tank selector switch
from the dash? The manual says to prize the mounting panel. This is a solid
wood continuation from the upper dash and does not appear to be a seperate
panel. Also, I see two arrows > and < but only one lights up. Should the other
light up when the switch is actuated? Is it a seperate bulb?

Sorry that I have no panacea to tender as to the list as I love it like it is!!

From: Peter Smith pjsmith@gil.com.au
Date: Fri, 01 Nov 1996 08:24:20 +1000
Subject: Storage advice in Australia

There is no need to do anything other than put it in the garage and go
and have a beer! The climate here is not lousy like Europe or winter
North America. Rust is comparatively not a problem. Just have the car
serviced before and after, and take it for a monthly run.
Regards Peter Smith

From: “Tracy A. Ferrell” tracy@brooktree.com
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 14:47:06 -0800
Subject: MK II suspension rebuild resource

Jim Beckmeyer of Union City, MI wrote (in part):

I briefly considered sending Nick some of this stuff for the web site but
when I considered the amount of writing involved, I nixed that plan; I’m not
the Bard of Boulder (Hi Lawrence…how’s the Daimler?) and writing doesn’t
come easily to me and, so I’ve been told, things aren’t much easier for the
reader.

Well, I vote that you go ahead and write the article and include as many
pictures as possible. I don’t have a MkII yet (it’s the only other Jaguar,
besides my Series III XJ6, that I lust after), but when I do I’m sure I’d
need just this kind of help.

Tracy A. Ferrell ‘tracy@brooktree.com’ in Sunny San Diego, CA, USA
‘tracyf@inetworld.net’
‘http://www.inetworld.net/~tracyf’

From: Daniel Kagan 101360.256@CompuServe.COM
Date: 31 Oct 96 17:46:10 EST
Subject: Perfect E-Type On Display in Yorkshire

Those of you close to Batley, West Yorkshire, UK may be interested to know that
the Skopos Motor Museum just opened there. I was at the official opening last
night and the museum has some fantastic cars, including a Blower Bentley,
gullwing Mercedes, immaculate SS 100 and a perfect Series I E-Type (which a
friend of mine just had built from the ground up). Pay the museum a visit when
in the North of England.

From: Daniel Kagan 101360.256@CompuServe.COM
Date: 31 Oct 96 17:46:12 EST
Subject: No Sunroof On '85 Sovereign HE?

I have a 1985 UK-Spec Sovereign HE and I am intrigued by the fact that it has no
sunroof. I have read in many places that all the Sovereigns in that year came
with a sunroof as standard. Has a PO removed it? DId aliens seal it up? Or is my
information wrong, the sunroof actually being an option on a 1985 Sovereign HE?
Just curious.

From: Christopher Margiotti cm082350@sju.edu
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 18:46:33 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJS H.E.

On Thu, 31 Oct 1996, Mark McChesney wrote:

Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 16:29:57 -0500
From: Mark McChesney mmcchesn@ford.com
To: Christopher Margiotti cm082350@sju.edu,
@owner-jag-lovers-di1, jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Re: XJS H.E.

On Oct 31, 3:49pm, Christopher Margiotti wrote:

Subject: XJS H.E.
What does H.E. stand for? I love the XJSs, especially the old ones with
the butresses.

Did they ever get rid of the butress on the coupe? I suppose I should know
this. :-/ I know they changed a bunch of stuff at the time they did the new
tail lamp, but did they change the C-pillar (a.k.a. the flying butress) too?

Mark McChesney

No. The flying butress weren’t removed from the coupe. But, I don’t
see many new XJS coupes, but a lot of convertibles. Jaguar did make a
cabroilet model, which is sort of a cros between a convertible and a
hardtop. I think it’s name is XJCS, but am not sure.

-Chris Margiotti

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 14:25:43 -0600
Subject: XKE - Oil leakeage

Sometimes the source of an oil leak is hard to be sure of. If you are
leaking oil around the front seal the air flow under the bonnet could be
carrying it almost anywhere. When the hood is closed and the car is at road
speed there are all sorts of air currents under there. I have seen oil from
a rear seal apear all the way up to the oxygen sensor (on an XJ6). This is
almosa a foot in front of the seal and 6" above the seal!!

The best way to find the source is to carefully clean the entire engine bay
then check for leaks after no more than 2 miles of driving. Then again
after another 2 miles etc. until it appears.

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: “YOUNG, Neil (M06)” Neil.Young@qed.qld.gov.au
Date: Fri, 01 Nov 96 09:50:00 PST
Subject: RE: XJS H.E.

Christopher:

High Efficiency, I believe.

Neil Young

From: Christopher Margiotti
To: owner-jag-lovers-digest
Subject: XJS H.E.
Date: Thursday, 31 October 1996 2:51PM

What does H.E. stand for? I love the XJSs, especially the old ones with
the butresses. They look best in that dark grey color.
-Chris Margiotti

From: Christopher Margiotti cm082350@sju.edu
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 18:57:43 -0500 (EST)
Subject: XJS Purchase

I am looking to buy a used XJS with in the next year or so, and I have a few
questions. What is the most reliable year for the XJS? Should I buy a
I6 or a V12? I am leaning toward the V12 because I currently miss my
V12, which is in restoration. Any other helpful sugestions would be
appreciated.

-Chris Margiotti

From: Christopher Margiotti cm082350@sju.edu
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 19:02:58 -0500 (EST)
Subject: XJS tail lamp

What exactly does the gothic lamp look like? I have noticed a difference
between the old and the newer XJSs, but never looked really close to
compare them. However, for some reason I am more attracted to the older
XJSs that the newer ones. Were there any major restlying done to the XJS
besides the lights(which I never really looked close at)?

-Chris Margiotti

From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 96 16:05:00 PST
Subject: re: MKII suspension rebuild resource

 Jim,
 
 This is a great offer you've made.  But in a few months time (even 
 next week), I know I'll forget that you're a resource on the 
 subject, unless I had a reminder.  How about if you write a short 
 tale about this, with a photo or two and your offer to be a 
 resource, and ask Nick to post it in the appropriate slot in the 
 JagWeb?  Someday I may own a MKII.
 
 Just a thought....
 David
 '70 XKE 2+2
 '84 XJ6 VDP
 thinking about a MKII
 subscribes to the digest

From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 16:35:53 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Engine wiring harness

I did this, but the injector harness was actually OK. I did buy the parts to
to the injector harness, though. The connectors are standard Bosch injector
connectors (rubber included), which I bought for about $3.50 each at a local
shop that caters to the dune-buggy crowd. I re-used the other connectors, by
using crimp splices with heat-melt lined heatshrink tubing. I used woven
overbraid (buy several sizes) and fiberglas reenforced harness tape to
terminate the ends of the braid. Buy all new lugs, make sure wire is OK for
hi-temp envrionments and that it is of adequate guage.
Works great, looks great!
Good luck!
Hunt

At 12:40 PM 10/31/96 -0700, Gregory W. Price wrote:

After I posted my original question about sources for SIII XJ6 wiring
harnesses, I received several replies suggesting that I just recreate
the one I have, rather than spending a sizeable chunk of money.

Ok, I’ll bite. To those who have gone this path before me, what
type(s) of connectors did you use to replace the original molded
(moulded?) rubber-encased connectors? Were you able to remove the
original connectors from the rubber enclosures, then reuse the rubber
parts? I’m not sure I want to lose the water-tight (mostly) rubber
components in my quest to save money, and I do want to end up with a
professional-looking installation. Any thoughts, warnings,
suggestions?

TIA

Greg Price
'85 VdP

From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 96 16:50:00 PST
Subject: XJ6 SI headlight conversions

 Per,
 
 I've done this, and even wrote a little about it the other day.  
 What I did will work on the SI as well.  (But I used sealed beams, 
 not the separate lamp type.  Maybe you'll need a different 
 connector?)  Anyway, I used a vendor in the UK who I would not 
 recommend - they took one full year to deliver.  Six months into 
 that waiting period, they stopped advertising in Jaguar World  - I 
 figured that was a bad sign, and I was right.  But I'm sure any 
 reputable vendor will do better.  They supplied two entire kits 
 (for two cars) for a total of $200 USD, delivered.  All pieces were 
 new.
 
 I just this minute checked with a British auto supplier in the 
 Sacramento area. I asked for 7" headlamp buckets and hardware for a 
 Triumph TR6.  Prices came out as:
    $21.50 Steel bucket (they can do plastic but he didn't have a    
           price)
    $10.95 Rubber gasket between bucket and body (Lucas)
    $18.95 Rim behind lamp (Lucas)
    $14.95 Outer rim (holds lamp to inner rim, above (Lucas)
    $ 6.95 Trim screw kit, includes 2 springs, 2 adjusters, plastic  
           nut (Lucas)
 This does one side of the car!  A breaker from a dry climate is a 
 good idea.  But Lucas *is* the premium brand, as we all know.  
 Maybe an aftermarket supplier would be less.  The parts supplied to 
 me said 'BL' on them.  If you go get the parts at a British parts 
 store in the US, they will not know about 7" buckets for the XJ6, 
 you'll have to tell them Triumph or MG or something.  You may want 
 to take the headlamp out in the parking lot to see if the screws 
 are in the right places.  
 
 Dunno about the pilot lamp, I'm not familiar with that.
 Is that essentially a daytime driving lamp???  I'd do that 
 conversion if that is what it is.  Anybody know?
 
 Best,
 
 David
 
 fom Per Stenius:
 -snip-
 Subject: XJ6 Ser. 1 headlight conversion
 
 -snip- I have decided to change my headlights to halogen type, and 
 at the same time change the somewhat ugly US 5 3/4'' outer 
 headlights to the nicer Brit. spec 7'' models. Has anybody done 
 this conversion, and if so, what kind of trouble did you have  if 
 any? Where did you get the parts from, and at what price? I have 
 already ordered a pair of Hellas for the inner headlights, so that 
 is no prob., but I need the whole outer headlamp ass'y for the 
 outer headlights (this means buckets, alignment rims, the lamp 
 itself, the chrome rim and also the wiring harness in case the new 
 lamp has an extra "pilot" bulb). Buying all this as new proved to 
 be too expensive (British Auto does have a kit though), so Jim 
 Isbell suggested ordering the kit from a breaker in Australia (I 
 suppose one in UK or Europe would do too, but maybe prices are 
 higher there?). -snip-
 Does anyone have suggestions for sources that they can recommend?

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 20:52:31 -0005
Subject: Re: Split the List? Here we go again…

Every 3 months some newby suggests splitting the list instead of
taking the obvious step of ordering the list in “Digest” form.

The problem, of course, is that getting the digest doesn’t help
anything – the problem isn’t with the number of messages, it’s with
the sheer volume of discussion. And the volume is exactly the same
on the digest as the individual messages.

Personally, I think getting the digest is a big mistake. Using
Pegasus, Eudora, Pine, and probably just about any other e-mail
reader available these days, you can hit “delete” while viewing a
message and the reader will automatically bring up the next message.
This is easier than scrolling through a digest. By simply hitting
one button repeatedly, you can delete 100 of the worthless “me too”
messages in a matter of seconds. Since you get to view each actual
message rather than just the subject line, you can take as long as
you need to decide each one needs deleting. I generally find that
out of 100 messages I will read/delete 97 within five minutes, but
the remaining three I’ll spend quite a while on (like this one!)

Getting the digest also makes it easier to reply to a message, in
that you don’t end up copying the entire damn digest into the reply.

I think we should all recognize that, sooner or later, there will
need to be separate spinoff discussion lists. How many members do
we have now – 800? What’ll happen when there are 8000? 80,000?
The Internet ain’t going away, and there is serious potential for a
high percentage of ALL Jaguar owners signing up sooner or later!

However, it would behoove us all greatly if the newbies would quit
making the same damn suggestion. THIS list ain’t goin’ anywhere, it
will continue to exist no matter what. If you don’t like it, you’re
welcome to form your OWN spinoff list, and you’re even welcome to
post a notice to this group inviting us to join it! After all,
that’s how THIS list was created – as a spinoff of the brit-cars
group. When there are four or more separate Jaguar-specialty
discussion groups, the volume on THIS list will diminish accordingly,
but it won’t go away, no more than the brit-cars went away. And some
of us will probably subscribe to both the specialty and the
jag-lovers lists, just because we’re gluttons for punishment!

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 20:52:30 -0005
Subject: Re: XJ6 Ser. 1 headlight conversion

Per Stenius:

I am planning to take my US version eventually to Finland, and one of the
consequences of that is that the sealed beam headlights will have to be
changed (due to regulations in Finland) to ones that have a separate bulb.

That’s interesting. Here in the US, separate bulbs were illegal for
decades, sealed beams were REQUIRED. Two different bureaucracies,
two opposite conclusions. Just outta curiosity: On what basis did
Finland decide to prohibit sealed beams?

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 20:52:31 -0005
Subject: Re: XJS H.E.

Chris Margiotti:

What does H.E. stand for?

High Efficiency. Truly an inspired moniker, doncha think? That’s
why I pried the H.E. motif off my car and replaced it with a V-12
motif.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 20:52:31 -0005
Subject: Re: Wood refinshing - XJ40

Eric cobac@ix.netcom.com:

Any idea how to remove the varnishing on the wood console of a XJ40. I
want to strip it off and fix the cracking from the sun, it looks very thick
and hard to strip.
Any idea what stripper will work?
what to re-varnish it with?

God, this has been discussed SO many times already! Hasn’t somebody
put this in an FAQ yet?

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #485

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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 1 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 486

Re: XJS H.E.
Re: XJ40: broken radio - replacement?
Re: Fuel Switch - 83 XJ6 III (Sorry no “List Suggestion” content)
Re: XKE windshield
Re: Split the List? - A Suggestion
Re: Split the List? Here we go again…
re: Fuel changeover switch removal on XJ6
Hello
re: 1982 XJ6 electric fan
Re: Destroying the list.
Motor Museum Opens in Yorkshire, UK
Sunroof Standard or Optional on 1985 V-12?
introduction
Re: The HE designation.
Destroying the list.
Jaguar XJR Firechase Car - ThrustSSC
XK-Lovers list: history
RE: XJS H.E.
E-Type 2+2 S1 1966 seats & belts
Re: Destroying the list.
Re: the real problem

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 20:52:31 -0005
Subject: Re: XJS H.E.

Mark McChesney:

Did they ever get rid of the butress on the coupe?

They didn’t get rid of it, but it was changed slightly. With the
body changes in the early 90’s, the angle of the rear windshield was
changed. The newer ones are not as steep, so they start at the same
point on the roof and attach to the deck about an inch or so rearward
of where they did before.

… but did they change the C-pillar too?

I think the rear windshield change was involved in an overall effort
to simplify the body construction by reducing the number of panels
and make the remaining ones easier to form.

(a.k.a. the flying butress)

It’s not a “flying buttress”, which would imply that there is an
opening under/through it.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: “Robert Johnson, D.Sc.” bjomejag@sover.net
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 21:08:51 -0400
Subject: Re: XJ40: broken radio - replacement?

cobac@ix.netcom.com wrote:

Hi,
Just when I’ve been basically trouble free with my 1989 XJ40, last night
I wanted to put my foot through the bonnet when the tape wouldn’t come out
of the stereo! All this, after returning from my dealer!!
Well, the tape mechanism is broken and won’t let the tape eject (it’s
broken!).
So, how/where can I get a rebuilt radio from?? Should I just buy a USED
radio from a newer car with the CD player pre-wiring?? (Any clue on costs?)

Thanks for any at all input!,
Eric cobac@ix.netcom.com
1989 XJ40-VDP

I have ad very good service from United Radio. I believe the address
is Ithica N.Y… Several radios I have had serviced came in with a
repair cost of around $100.00. They do a service estimate before
starting the work. The units have been very reliable since serviced.

Hope this helps,
Bob Johnson
XJ40, XJ50

From: “David Tordoff” dtordoff@flash.net
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 20:56:15 -0600
Subject: Re: Fuel Switch - 83 XJ6 III (Sorry no “List Suggestion” content)

Does anyone know the proper way to remove the left/right tank selector switch
from the dash? The manual says to prize the mounting panel. This is a solid
wood continuation from the upper dash and does not appear to be a seperate
panel. Also, I see two arrows > and < but only one lights up. Should the other
light up when the switch is actuated? Is it a seperate bulb?

Sorry that I have no panacea to tender as to the list as I love it like it is!!

From: DHarr13177@aol.com
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 22:44:49 -0500
Subject: Re: XKE windshield

I referred to the helpful info in the post you replied to. Read the factory
manual or Haynes . They specify fitting the lower edge first. Remove the dash
pad after the lower glass edge is in place. This was the key for me. Then
fit the top edge, and then the sides. If you remove the pad first you will
not be able to steady the glass to fit the lower edge. If you are even
contemplating the job yourself, you probably can do it. The tool I used was a
paint can top ( pry ) remover from the local store. It has a slight hook on
the end and is firmer than a bent coat hanger

Now I wonder if my insurance will cover a do it yourself job. They should
since it will cost about $ 200 less.

Doug

From: Shane Gibson shane_gibson@qsp.co.nz
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 17:09:29 -0800
Subject: Re: Split the List? - A Suggestion

Hi All

I too enjoy the list and would be loathed for it to be split.

But I too spend a bit of time deleting messages that “I” don’t think are
relevant.

I have found this alot easier after it was suggested that meaningful
subjects were used.

My suggestion is this, why don’t we use some form of keywords as the
first 4 (or whatever) digits of the subject. i.e.

XJS
XJ6
MK2
GEN

Most people do it know know but if we formulate a list that is
distributed as part of the welcome message to new members then maybe it
would serve both purposes.

It would certainly help me quickly delete the all those messages about
ugly XJ6’s

Just a thought.

Shane Gibson
Wellington, New Zealand
1968 Daimler V8 250 (EDMUND)

From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 23:47:46 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Split the List? Here we go again…

that’s how THIS list was created – as a spinoff of the brit-cars
group. When there are four or more separate Jaguar-specialty
discussion groups, the volume on THIS list will diminish accordingly,
but it won’t go away, no more than the brit-cars went away. And some

Yep. this list was spun-off of the Brit-cars list several years ago.
And I feel there’s a lesson in the main brit-car group. Not long after
this group formed, the brit-car list did split into several sub groups. MG,
Truimph, etc. I was on most of them. And I found that it did not lighten the
load any. In fact, it got much worse. Rather than having to wade though
long off-top threads… I was having to wade through those threads four times
due to the miracle of cross-posting.

What would work best (but I don’t think will ever happen fully) is subject
lines that properly describe the message content. I, for one, am very
quick with the delete key. Every evening I run down the daily incoming, and
delete 90% purely on subject before ever reading the first one.

And on a related subject, it would be nice if people, especially when asking
for help, identify the car (model and year), and SIGN it!! Most requests to
the list do not contain a “reply-to” or a return addrss in the text. If I want
to reply, I have to bomb the whole list… or ignore it. the later usually wins.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 96 22:21:00 PST
Subject: re: Fuel changeover switch removal on XJ6

 Mr. Tordoff,
 
 I assume you're speaking of the fuel changeover switch on an XJ6.  
 It's held in with a spring clip, on the top and bottom of the 
 switch.  When the switch is pushed into the rectangular cutout on 
 the dash, the clips pop outwards, thus gripping the dash panel from the    
 back.  
 
 How to get it out.....  Exerting pressure downwards and towards you on the 
 switch body, you can get the top of the clip to loosen.  
 Then rock the switch upwards (without letting the first spring clip drop   
 back behind the panel, and you should get the thing free, and out the front
 of the panel, easily.  If that doesn't work, try pushing it upwards, first.
 
 The lighting is accomplished by fiber optics.  When the switch is 
 -in-, the fiber optic lines up with one arrow legend and not 
 the other.  When the switch is -out-, the fiber optic lines 
 up with the other arrow.  In all it makes for a really 
 dimly-lighted arrow set of arrows.  If one arrow doesn't light up 
 at all it's because either the fiber optic has slipped and doesn't light 
 the arrow well (likely) or the switch is kind of busted and thus 
 doesn't line up with the fiber optic (also likely).  Or your eyes are      
 insensitive to dim arrows.
 
 Best,

 David
 '84XJ6 VDP - I replaced that switch 4 years ago
 '70XKE 2+2 - Intact only from the bulkhead back

    from David Tordoff:      
 >Does anyone know the proper way to remove the left/right tank 
 >selector switch from the dash?   -snip-  Also, I see two 
 >arrows > and < but only one lights up. Should the other light up 
 >when the switch is actuated? Is it a seperate bulb?

From: “Pete Schultz” pschultz@VAX1.BEMIDJI.MSUS.EDU
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 00:40:22 -0600
Subject: Hello

Hi, my name is Pete, and I just purchased a Jaguar XJ6L!
The car has a chevy V8, but that’s not so bad considering
I live in North Dakota. There is only a couple of problems
with the car, one, the blower for the heater isn’t working, and
two, the turn signals don’t work. Maybe my questions are so
simple that one of you real experts would want to help out an
ametuer such as myself, and then again maybe these are some
of the questions that are really tough. Either way I would appretiate
any help offered.
Thanks, Pete…

From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 96 23:14:00 PST
Subject: re: 1982 XJ6 electric fan

 Scott,
 
 When I got my 1984 XJ6, the fan didn't work either.  The relay was 
 bad (loose pin!) *and* the thermostat in the radiator was bad.  
 Replaced both and it works.  BTW, the fuse is in the little fuse 
 panel near the radiator overflow tank, under the hood on the left.  
 For a replacement relay recommended by Volker Nadenau, check my 
 parts interchange guide at:
    http://www.ns.net/~dshield
 This guide is destined to be part of Jim Isbell's XJ6 book, after 
 we work some formatting problems out.
 
 There is an extra connector, as you say, to drive the relay, under 
 the radiator. Bridge that connector and the relay clicks and the 
 fan starts.  It *might* be used in some very hot markets to turn on 
 whenever the A/C kicks in, for example.  That's how I'd use it if I 
 still lived in Phoenix.
 
 Considering the extra wiring to your red fan relay (comes from the 
 aftermarket A/C pressure switch).  That's probably a botched wiring 
 job and the fan *can't possibly* work because the wiring is screwed 
 up. I'd restore that wiring to original, and route the A/C pressure 
 switch wiring to the extra connector (assuming the switch is closed 
 when the A/C is on).
 
 Hope this helps.
 
 David
 '84 XJ6 VDP
 '70 XKE 2+2 
 
 From Scott Fisher:
 >The electric fan on my XJ6 has never run since I got the car about 
 >4 years ago.  -snip-  Interestingly an aftermarket pressure-switch 
 on the Air-Con line also runs into other pins on this relay.

From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 10:37:39 -0800
Subject: Re: Destroying the list.

Dear all,

What’s this I hear about splitting the list. I seem to remember noticing a
posting about establishing a separate list for XJ saloons, but didn’t pay much
attention as I assumed the suggestion would be hrmmf-ed at.

I’ve had a helluva job catching up with the digest, since I went to Finland for
a week (a month ago!), but yesterday I scanned through the last 7-8 digests and
may have missed this discussion.

Although I miss the odd XK posting, I can understand that the XK-people went on
and established a list of their own. XK related postings were scarce to say the
least.

'much as I’m a Series I XJ owner, I like to think of myself as member of a
great family that includes owners of newer XJ’s as well as S-types, Mk-II’s and
X’s, not to forget the much underrated 420, and of course the E-type which is
the car I long most to own. It sits right there beside the XK120 roadster in
my dreams.

Splitting the list is destroying the list! He who loves only the one Jaguar he
possesses, doesn’t really love Jaguars at all. (OK, fire up your flamethrowers!)

Sincerely yours,

Bard Th Hesvik

______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no

From: Daniel Kagan 101360.256@CompuServe.COM
Date: 01 Nov 96 04:55:36 EST
Subject: Motor Museum Opens in Yorkshire, UK

Those of you close to Batley, West Yorkshire, England may be interested to know
that the Skopos Motor Museum has just opened there. I was at the official
opening the night before last and the museum has some fantastic cars, including
a Blower Bentley, gullwing Mercedes, immaculate SS 100 and a perfect Series I
E-Type (which a friend of mine just had built from the ground up). The museum’s
well worth a visit if you find yourself in the north of England.

From: Daniel Kagan 101360.256@CompuServe.COM
Date: 01 Nov 96 04:55:38 EST
Subject: Sunroof Standard or Optional on 1985 V-12?

I have a 1985 UK-Spec Sovereign HE and I am intrigued by the fact that it has no
sunroof. I have read in many places that all the UK Jaguar Sovereigns in that
year came with a sunroof as standard. Has a PO removed it? DId aliens seal it
up? Or is my information wrong, the sunroof actually being an option on a 1985
Sovereign HE? Just curious.

From: lustre@iafrica.com
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 96 23:02:10 GMT
Subject: introduction

as a new subscriber i am delighted to be part of the group.

have always lusted after jags but only started playing a couple of years ago.

i drive a xj6 s3 as a daily car, keep a concours level MK2 (3.8 wire wheels) for
the occasional weekend drive and am currently going through the trauma of a
complete nuts and bolts restoration of a 1947 2.5l saloon.
is there anyone with experience of the 2.5/3.5l saloons?

john (lustre@iafrica.com)

From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 12:04:03 -0800
Subject: Re: The HE designation.

Hi again,

On Oct 31, 3:49pm, Christopher Margiotti wrote:

Subject: XJS H.E.
What does H.E. stand for?

HE stands for High Efficiency and it appeared in connection with the V12-engines
some time in the mid-eighties. The “Fireball” heads had been given a special
design of the combustion chambers. This was supposed to give better fuel
economy, but it turned out that the opposite was a fact in most cases.

Keep on Jaggin’

Bard

______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no

From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 12:18:08 -0800
Subject: Destroying the list.

Dear all,

What’s this I hear about splitting the list. I seem to remember noticing a
posting about establishing a separate list for XJ saloons, but didn’t pay much
attention as I assumed the suggestion would be hrmmf-ed at.

I’ve had a helluva job catching up with the digest, since I went to Finland for
a week (a month ago!), but yesterday I scanned through the last 7-8 digests and
may have missed this discussion.

Although I miss the odd XK posting, I can understand that the XK-people went on
and established a list of their own. XK related postings were scarce to say the
least.

'much as I’m a Series I XJ owner, I like to think of myself as member of a
great family that includes owners of newer XJ’s as well as S-types, Mk-II’s and
X’s, not to forget the much underrated 420, and of course the E-type which is
the car I long most to own. It sits right there beside the XK120 roadster in
my dreams.

Splitting the list is destroying the list! He who loves only the one Jaguar he
possesses, doesn’t really love Jaguars at all. (OK, fire up your flamethrowers!)

Sincerely yours,

Bard Th Hesvik

______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no

From: “Martin Fooks” Martin.Fooks@centurasoft.com
Date: Fri, 01 Nov 96 11:41:24 PST
Subject: Jaguar XJR Firechase Car - ThrustSSC

 I have recently received the latest news update about the Thrust SSC 
 Land Speed Record attempt (This is the British car that is trying to 
 break the speed of sound before America's Craig Breedlove).  They have 
 obtained a Fire Emergency vehicle, which I think some of you would 
 like!  An extract follows :
 
 One of the world's fastest fire and emergency response vehicles will 
 be supporting ThrustSSC in its World Land Speed Record bid.  Developed 
 and built by Jaguar's Special Vehicle Operations Department in 
 Coventry, the ultra-fast response tender is based on Jaguar's 155mph 
 (250kph) supercharged XJR saloon.
 
 The ThrustSSC XJR Firechase Car utilises Jaguar's experience gained 
 from producing high speed fire and fast response vehicles for 
 Britain's top motor racing circuits and building a fire tender to 
 support Richard Noble when he set the current World Land Speed record 
 in Thrust2 in 1983.
 
 Engineers have left the 326 PS supercharged engine unchanged. However, 
 suspension and steering systems have been uprated to carry the extra 
 1000kg of equipment.  The rear passenger compartment has been totally 
 transformed - it has been equipped with fire fighting equipment and a 
 200 litre foam tank with twin 5 metre hoses.  The luggage compartment 
 stores an array of sophisticated rescue equipment which can be carried 
 by one person to wherever they are needed.

From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@CompuServe.COM
Date: 01 Nov 96 07:45:36 EST
Subject: XK-Lovers list: history

Elias asked how the XK group got started. First, I didn’t ask anyone for
permission or approval, I just did it. There were from time to time the usual
debates on Jag-Lovers about whether the list should split etc. They seemed to
assume that someone else was going (maybe) to do something (some day). I
ignored all that. I started it by asking a few XK owners if they wanted to be
in it. They did of course. I started with 4 of us in Feb 96. As other XK
owners surfaced, they were added. They came from (1) Jag-Lovers list (2)
personal contact from existing members (3) JagWeb guestbook entries (4) my
article in Jaguar World. The technology was virtually nil: we just copied
everyone else on the list with all messages. Often, almost every day, I
redirected copies of messages to list members where others had problems doing
this. Traffic was light, a couple of messages a day, then about 4 or 5 a day by
October. By then we had about 64 on the list and it was very unwieldy having to
have every new member copy everyone else, adding 60+ addresses to his address
book. Then Dick White (from South Carolina) came to the rescue with the offer
of a majordomo service! On 22 Oct 96 it became a reality. Dick is now the
administrator. The consequences were immediate and dramatic: messages to the
list became so much easier, and everyone now gets them, that the traffic has
increased enormously: 15 messages today (1 Nov 96) - triple what it was 2 weeks
ago pre majordomo. Great camaraderie, NO flames (yet), and no rubbish. So, you
guys who wish there was a (whatever) list: just do it! If there is the demand,
and you put the effort in it will go well. If not, what have you lost? I still
get Jag-Lovers and continue to be impressed by the standard of the information
on it and the great people out there. Maybe I’ll take an even stronger interest
in it if we eventually get the X300 which we yearn for! But for now, the mail
in (even in the digest which is great) is becoming overwhelming with the growth
of XK-Lovers, so I may have to unsubscribe sometime soon. After all, I am
trying to write 2 books on XKs as well as do all the other things that we all
have to do, and time for these interests is limited. So, whatever you decide to
do, good luck, and if you think you have a really good idea, and want it badly
enough, why wait for someone else to do it? Regards, John Elmgreen

From: Bob Shipley bshipley@mail.tds.net
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 07:12:48 -0600
Subject: RE: XJS H.E.

Christopher:

High Efficiency, I believe.

Neil Young

From: Christopher Margiotti
To: owner-jag-lovers-digest
Subject: XJS H.E.
Date: Thursday, 31 October 1996 2:51PM

What does H.E. stand for? I love the XJSs, especially the old ones with
the butresses. They look best in that dark grey color.
-Chris Margiotti

From: Stephan Perthes 100277.1037@CompuServe.COM
Date: 01 Nov 96 08:12:40 EST
Subject: E-Type 2+2 S1 1966 seats & belts

Hi from a newbie:

Looking desparately for new seats w/headrests (!)
& four new automatic seat belts for my 2+2 in resto.

Any hints & tips are welcome !

Neither Jaguar Enthusiasts Club U.K. nor
JAG (Jaguar Association Germany) could help.

Have a look at my web site - just started
collecting jag links plus restorations’ sites.

Stephan Perthes - Darmstadt - Germany
E-Type 2+2 S1 1966 3xSUHD8 LHD.
This is Jaguar lovers’ site:

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Perthes/EType.htm

From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Fri, 01 Nov 1996 08:31:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Destroying the list.

Omigod, see what you did? You woke up Baard!!!

Baard wrote, in part;

Splitting the list is destroying the list! He who loves only the one Jaguar he

possesses, doesn’t really love Jaguars at all.

And I say;
Honk if you love Baard!
That’s the best point yet!

Then he showed infinite wisdom, by adding;

and of course the E-type which is

the car I long most to own.

'nuff said???
Best to all,

Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
'62 E-Type, ots, flat floor.

From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 15:23:05 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: the real problem

On Fri, 1 Nov 1996, Ken Hampton wrote:

The real problem with this list is not that it is too big,
it is that too many subscribers broadcast their $.02 to the
whole world instead of replying directly to the original
person making an inquiry.

The $.02 we could do without, but the big bucks are what
makes it good reading. The list would go right downhill
if all that was posted was questions and infrequent answers.

In the rest of the internet world this is called spamming
and is considered very bad manners indeed.

Spamming is bad manners, but posting pointless replies is
not spamming.

of answers to the list server (jag-lovers-owner@sn.no) for

Please do not send mail to the above address. The only
address to mail anything to is jag-lovers@sn.no

What would be a good idea tho is that some kind folks with
a little spare time could volunteer to compile FAQs for the
various areas of interest. Kirby and Jim are doing good work
with the books and Lawrence is doing good work with the
monster guide to wasting your money^h^h^h^h^h^h^h^hbuying a
Jaguar. If we could have people making shorter lists for the
small items that pop up again and again and again, we could
make real progress.

I will admit that when someone gets 5+ public replies to a
question of what HE means something is amiss. Why didn’t the
other 795 guys post a reply?

Nick

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #486

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Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 17:43:55 +0100 (MET)
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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 1 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 487

Jaguar Suppliers (posted monthly)
Re: GM Tranny in S-Type (Half-a-lump)
Seat Heaters XJ40 1987
Re: seeking remote door locks
SIII flashing radio
split the list?
Environmental control
XJ6 S1 headlamps
Re: Engine wiring harness

From: jjoy@risc.sps.mot.com
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 09:00:01 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Jaguar Suppliers (posted monthly)

Does anyone have info for the Imperial Machine Co.? Thanks!

Suppliers, North America (mostly).

[This list is automatically sent out on the first of each month.]

Updates:
updated phone for John Farrel

(Corrections, comments to: jjoy@risc.sps.mot.com)

The majority of this list has come from Rob Reilly reilly@admail.fnal.gov

   SUPPLIERS OF JAGUAR PARTS AND SERVICES              Rev. 10-28-96

A D Motor Rebuilding, NY 1-516-395-5101
Lucas, Smith’s motors rebuilt

Al Hogan’s Autojumble Mansfield, Ohio 1-419-524-1088
NOS parts supplier

Specializes in buying out old dealer stock. Owner (Al) is knowledgeable
about british car parts.

-Steve DuChene s0017210@cc.ysu.edu

Dick Ames, 3963 Wilshire Center, Sarasota, FL 34238 1-941-923-8321
stainless exhaust systems

Best price on stainless steel exhaust systems.

-PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)

Ancient Car Parts, 64 N Main, Lyndonville, NY 14098 1-716-765-2894
rust repair panels for XJ

Apple Hydraulics, 715 Route 25A, Miller Place, NY 11764 1-800-882-7753
rebuilds Armstrong, Girling shocks, SU carbs 1-516-744-9627

Asom Electric, 1204 McClellan Dr., Los Angeles, CA 90025 1-310-820-3720
email: asomelect@aol.com 1-800-424-2766

Electrical rebuilding shop that deals mostly in Lucas and Bosch and
rebuild starters, alternators, generators, fuel pumps, voltage regulators,
wiper and window motors. They have a large supply of Lucas parts,
including discontinued items. In business for 36 years, have daily UPS,
and accept credit cards.

Atlantic Enterprises, Route 4, Box 394-B, Loris, SC 29569 1-803-756-7565
steering racks, seal kits, polyurethane rack mounts

Auto Interiors of Europe, 1790 E McFadden, Unit 107 1-800-533-2886
interiors Santa Ana, CA 92705

(not sure which addr. is correct)
3023 S. Orange Ave.
Santa Ana, CA 92707
(714) 751-9046
Nice stuff if I remember correctly. Not cheap but nothing for these
beasts is.

- s912!rick@bnf.com (Rick Ezneker)

Kent Bain, 1785 Barnum Ave, Stratford, CT 06497 1-203-377-6745
custom interiors, seat rebuilding and repadding

G.W.Bartlett, Muncie, Ind. 1-800-338-8034
interior and trim parts

Sells original Jaguar Interior kits and components. All to exact Jaguar
specifications. As per original spec. Quite costly but isn’t quality
always a bit more? (eg. Interior kit for Jag 3.8s is about $4200, retail.)

- zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay)

Basset’s, Wyoming, R.I. 1-401-539-3010
restoration parts

Borla Industries, Oxnard, Calif. 1-805-983-7300
stainless exhaust

British Auto Center, 2938 SW Avalon Way, Seattle, WA 98126 206-935-0873

Lots of late model stuff, new and used. Very knowledgeable. Can
sometimes be grumpy. – Greg Meboe (meboe@wsunix.wsu.edu)

British Auto USA, 92 Londonderry Trnpk, 1-603-622-1050
British Auto USA Interiors Manchester, NH 03104 1-800-4-JAGPTS
interior and trim parts 1-800-452-4787

Exc. inventory of interiors and body parts. Limited inventory of
mechanical parts but I always check them out because they’re cheaper!
(I avoid Bartlets for Jag interiors)

-PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)

British Car Parts, CA 1-818-788-7636
new and used parts

British Marque Auto PO Box 344, Bainbridge, PA 17502 1-717-426-2675
interiors

British Motor Service, 521 W. Katella, Orange, CA 92667 1-714-997-3800
Moss distributor, used XK parts

British Parts Northwest, 4105 SE Lafayette Hwy, 1-503-864-2001
new parts for late models, no sheet metal Dayton, OR 97114

British Restoration Parts, Kansas City, Mo. 1-800-821-3767
new restoration parts

British Spares, 46 Florence, Springfield, MA 01105 1-413-736-0463
fabricates panels for XK, Marks, E

British Vintages, 645-D Tank Farm Rd, 1-800-350-JAGS
San Luis Obispo, CA 93401 1-805-541-5986

Have their catalog but so far never used them.

-PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)

British Wire Wheel, 1650 Mansfield St, 1-408-479-4495
Santa Cruz, CA 95062
Dayton and Dunlop wire wheels, tires

THE place to go for correct reconditioning of your JagWires. Also to
buy THE correct tires.

-PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)

Bob Brosen, 7804 Billington Court, Oxen Hill, MD 20744 1-301-248-6327
new repro parts for pre-war, Mark IV, V

Classic Parts & Panels, Ltd. 0296 658938
Fleet Marston Farm, Bicester Rd., Nr Waddesdon
Aylesbury, Bucks, UK HD 18 ODZ XK panels

Classic Restoration Parts, Bellflower, Ca. 1-213-804-2756
XK grilles, gas tanks

Classic Tube 1-716-759-1800
A Division of Classic & Performance Specialists
80 Rotech Drive
Lancaster, NY 14086 USA

They supply steel and stainless steel pre-bent brake and fuel lines for
various makes of cars. I got half the brake lines and clutch lines
from them in stainless, and being the prudish restoration junkie I am,
I was concerned that the reproduction in stainless would not be very
“original”. However, I’m happy to say the final product is almost
identical to the original steel lines, most judges will not notice the
difference. – Mark Roberts (markdr@bnr.ca)

Concourse West, 644 Terminal Way, Costa Mesa CA 92627 714-642-9807
fax 714-645-8388

Have rebuilt diffs.

-PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)

Cordell R. Newby, 1410 N. Aurora, East Wenatchee, WA 98801 509-884-6823
Specializes in Mark V parts. New and used.

- s912!rick@bnf.com (Rick Ezneker)

Coshman Ent, PO Box 2685-J, Orcutt, CA 93455 1-805-937-7456
Whitworth tools, taps & dies, gauges, fasteners

Coventry Engineering, 9500 SW Martha St, Tigard, OR 97224 1-503-620-9482
wiring harnesses

Coventry S Ltd, 6406 85th Place, New Carrolton, MD 20784 1-800-537-4146
stainless exhaust systems

Coventry West, 5936-A Peachtree Road, Atlanta, GA 30341 1-800-331-2193
used XJ parts recycler, remanufacture parts 1-770-451-3839
such as steering racks, heads, calipers, etc. FAX: 1-404-451-7561

Joe Curto, 230-22 58th Ave. Bayside, NY 11364 1-718-465-4829
S.U. parts

Wes Czech, HCR 9550, Lucerne Valley, CA 92356 1-619-248-9603
XK parts

Stanley Daniel, 124 Parkview Rd. Cheltenham, PA 19012 1-215-782-1248
used Mark 7-9 parts from 30 cars, call after 9PM EST

Doctor Jaguar, 644 W 17th St, Costa Mesa, CA 92627 1-714-646-2816
parts, engines, trans, susp. parts

East Coast Jag Parts DE 1-302-731-7200

EJAG NEWS, Box J, Carlisle, Mass 01741 magazine, a few accessories

Engel Imports, Kalamazoo, Mich. 1-800-253-4080
new car dealer, will UPS, cheaper than other dealers

European Auto Specialists, 1-313-355-2730
OEM parts for late models

John Farrel, 4315 Murray St., Flushing, NY 11355 1-516-454-7977
NOS XK parts (evenings) 1-718-762-9071

Foreign Car Center, 1610 S Main, Milpitas, CA 95035 1-408-262-0325
used parts recycler

Grand Turisimo Jaguar 1-216-259-5656
4285 Main Street fax: 1-216-259-5588
Perry Village, OH 44081
engine rebuilder, parts
Specializing in high performance parts and services. They list a
‘level 5’ Jaguar V12 with all of the whistles and bells like porting,
balancing, etc. with 6, count them, 6 two bbl Weber carbs mounted
vertically across the top of the V12! This engine sells for about
$13,500. - zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay)

Gunson Ltd., Pudding Mill Lane, London E15 2PJ
UK source for ColourTune

Tony Handler’s Foreign Parts Connection 1-213-473-7773
2028 Cotner Ave, Westwood, CA 90025

H.D. Rogers & Sons 1-318-742-3651
3418 Barksdale Blvd. fax: 1-318-742-5044
Bossier City, LA 71112
email: hdrsons@iamerican.net

Family-owned business supplying used, NOS, discontinued parts as well as
enhancements for newer cars. For example, they offer aftermarket a/c
hoses for XJ series and a less expensive amplifier. They try to give
special rates to internet users. They also have contracts worldwide
and will try to locate hard to find items, and offer special prices for
prepaid orders from overseas.

H.P. Co., 1079 Colonial Club Dr, Harahan, LA 70123 1-504-737-4691
burled walnut dashboards

I-35 Imports Oklahoma 1-405-799-2886
used parts, 80 and older

Imperial Machine Co. Lincoln, NE

Intermarque Auto Parts Houston 1-800-666-8700
parts and sheet metal

International Spare Parts 1-800-243-0073

J.K.Restorations, 12 Jackson, Oswego, IL 1-708-554-2120
complete restorations, specialist for XK and E, some used parts

Jag Atlanta, 3437 Sexton Woods Dr, Chamblee, GA 30341 1-800-533-8973
new, used parts for E and XJ 1-404-455-0175

Jaggist (Alan Trickel) 1065 Hillview, Ashland, OR 97520 1-503-535-8486
used XK parts

Jaguar Cars Inc, Public Relations, Mahwah NJ 1-201-818-9770
For a fee will authenticate your VIDNs.

-PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)

Jaguar Denver 1-800-426-4515
Lucas, Girling, Jag parts

Jaguar Heaven, 1433 Tillie Lewis Dr, Stockton, CA 1-209-942-4524
95206-1130 1-800-969-4524
used parts recycler, all models FAX: 1-209-942-3670

Jaguar Interiors of England, PO Box 47, Muncie, IN 47308 1-317-289-9901
carpeting and upholstery

Jaguar of North America, Leonia, NJ 1-201-592-5200
factory American distributor

Jaguar South Greenville, SC 1-803-244-1555, 1-803-292-3934
used parts recycler

Jaguar parts SC 1-803-754-5363

Jaguar Warehouse, 6010 Mardale Lane, Burke, VA 22015 1-703-451-4071
NOS parts

Jaguar Warehouse, 5727 Walcott Ave, Fairfax, VA 22030 1-703-968-3983
XK parts

J C Whitney, Chicago, IL 312-431-6102

Also known as Warshawsky/Whitney. Sells car parts cheap for most cars
including LBCs. Massive buying power. Brainless order-takers. You
can call in the middle of the night for good long-distance rates. They
will not tell you brand names. All the swaybars are ADDCO. See also
ADDCO and Werace. - ?

J.C. Whitney offers a few items that are of interest. Things like generic
weatherstrip by the foot, etc. The do offer after market A/C units and
high output quartz halogen 7 inch headlights (110 watts!!!). The ad
carries the label ‘Not legal for street use.’ They look really cool.

- zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay)

John’s Cars, 800 Jaguar Lane, Dallas, TX 75226 1-214-426-4100
fax: 1-214-426-3116
V-8 conversions, other repro parts, claims improvements over stock

Just Jags, 407 Industrial Dr, Carmel, IN 46032 1-317-844-8823
new, used parts, service, restorations

Just Jags, 8720 Big Bend at Elm, St.Louis, MO 63119 1-314-968-2450
service, parts, restoration shop

Keller Associates, PO Box 2833, Saratoga, CA 95070 1-408-370-3705
burl walnut dashboards

Lister of North Am, 1912 Granvill Av, Muncie, IN 47308 1-800-338-8034
high performance accessories

Lovello, Mark SC 1-803-244-1555
used parts

Moss Motors, PO Box MG, 7200 Hollister Av, Goleta, CA 93116 800-235-6954
new and repro parts for XK’s

Moss Motors, Santa Barbara, California 1-805-963-0741
new car dealer

Cordell Newby, 1625 N Western, East Wenatchee, WA 98801 1-509-662-7748
new, used, repro parts for pre-war, Mark IV, V

added: Jul. 29, 1994
Nisonger Instrument Sales & Service 1-914-381-1952
570 Mamaroneck Ave. fax: 1-914-381-1953
Mamaroneck, NY 10543
Repairs capillary based guages.
“I had them repair my water temp gauge 2 months ago. Charge was $100 including
shipping, turnaround time was 2 weeks, and they take plastic.” Rob Reilly

Northwest Modern Classics, 121 Duryea, Raymond, WA 98577
interiors, carpets, upholstery, tops 1-800-854-1751,1-206-942-5532

Northwest Transmission Parts, Ohio 1-513-442-2811 or 1-800-327-1955
auto trans rebuilding kits, torque convertors

Peninsula Imports, 3749 Harlem Rd, Buffalo, NY 14215 1-800-999-1209
XJ, E body and rust repair panels 1-716-833-3000

Fred Petroske, RR1, Box 112, Chaumont, NY 13622 1-315-649-2861
used parts recycler, all models

Paul K. Phillips 1-305-846-7976
1124 N. W. 134 Ave. fax: 1-305-846-9450
Sunrise, FL 33323
Specializes in the XJ Coupe market and runs an XJC register.
“I have dealt with him once on an exhaust system (via a referral from
SICP) and got good service. He does require cash C.O.D. (no credit cards)
which is a bit of a bother.” - gladish@suite.com (Brian Gladish)

Phil’s, Inc. Ashland Ave, Evanston, IL 1-708-869-2434

PII Distributing, PO Box 27358, Houston, TX 77227-7358 1-800-231-5836
genuine Jaguar parts, sheet metal 1-713-975-6272

Chuck Pilate, 24996 W Magdalena Dr, Mt Clemens, MI 48045
XK, E parts 1-313-791-0429

Rich’s Import Auto Parts & Serv, 730 N Glebe Rd, Arlington, VA 22203
parts for E, XJ and 62 on sedans 1-800-336-6603, 1-703-522-0440

Rhino Auto Parts, Hanover, MN 1-612-498-8711
used and NOS parts 50’s to 70’s

Rhode Island Wiring Service, Box 3737H, Peace Dale, RI 02883
wiring harnesses 1-401-789-1955

Martin Robey Panels, Pool Rd, Camp Hill 011-44-203-386-903
Industrial Estate, Nuneaton, Warks CV10 9AE England

Rodney, 2035 Cornell St, Sarasota, FL 33577 1-813-955-5960
used parts recycler

SCJ, 3 Elizabeth Ave, Burlington, MA 01803
NOS parts, pre-war to 61

Samplex, 30 Parkview Dr, Succasunna, NJ 07876 201-584-9370
US source for ColourTune

Special Interest Car Parts, 1340 Hartford Ave, Johnston, RI 02919
voice: 1-800-556-7496, 1-800-851-5600, 1-401-831-8850
fax: 1-800-672-SICP(1-800-672-7427), 1-401-831-7760
We have parts for your Jaguar, MG, Healey, TR. Good prices. Superb
catalog. Parts from XK120 through XJ40 including e-types. Will often
meet or beat prices from competitors.

S&S Specialties, 108 Sation St, Cumming, IA 50061 1-515-981-9148
NOS, rebuilt and used parts for XK, Mk and E, sheet metal parts

Stainless Steel Muffler Corp, 3032 Genesee St, Buffalo, NY 14225
stainless exhaust systems 1-716-893-2116

Terry’s Jaguar Parts, 117 E Smith St, Benton, IL 62812 1-800-851-9438
new and used parts for later models 1-618-439-4444

Bill Tracy, Sarasota, Florida 1-813-924-9523
new and repro parts for XK’s

Trans Ocean, Dept PDH, 390 Olive Tree Lane, Sierra Madre, CA 91024
Lucas parts jobber, '30 to '76 British cars

Welsh Jaguar Enterprises, Steubenville, Ohio 1-800-875-5247
new, used, and repro parts for XK’s and newer 1-614-282-8649
fax: 1-614-282-1913
Catalogue available. (free)

The best prices for Jaguar parts that I have found.

- zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O. Lindsay)

Exc. inventory of parts, new and used. Can offer helpful technical advice.

-PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)

Ed West, 1941H Jan Marie Place, Tustin, CA 92680 1-714-832-2688
new, used, repro parts for earlier Jags

Ed west has lots of intresting stuff at very resonable prices and lots
of advice. – m_skogs@ix.netcom.com (Matthew Skosberg)

White Post Restorations, White Post, VA 22663 1-703-837-1140
restorations, brake and clutch cylinders resleeved

XK’s Unlimited, 850 Fiero Lane, San Luis Obispo, CA 93401 1-805-544-7864
new and repro parts for XK’s 1-800-444-JAGS
In CA: 805-544-7864 FAX: 805-544-1664

catalog available. ($6.00, refundable first order)
“Parts & Service for all model Jaguars from 1948 on” XK’s Unlimited is
a good place to send Girling calipers for for piston bore sleeving. -?

XK’s Unlimited is good, but is a bit higher than Welsh Jaguar. They
are also committed to “correct” parts. Additionally, you can call them
without a part number. Just be sure that they tell you what is
included in the replacement part. - zrol01@trc.amoco.com (Richard O.
Lindsay)

Good inventory and advice, but pricey. Nice catalogue. Has a
restoration shop sleeving brake cylinders in stainless.

-PKR@SLACVM.SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Patrick Krejcik)

XKSS Interiors, Thousand Oaks, CA 91359 1-800-922-XKSS, 1-805-482-4682
interior and trim parts

Vicarage Jaguar 1-305-444-8759
% Gables Cats fax: 1-305-443-6443
220 Granello Avenue
Coral Gables, FL 33146
vicarage@ix.netcom.com (alt. vicarage@paradise.net)
http://paradise.net/vicarage

Vicarage says: If one is in need of specialized or hard to find parts
we will have them. In addition we do offer the unique Vicarage
upgrades and enhancement products for all post war Jaguars.

Zimmer, Bob 2675 Stoney Brook Rd, Orchard Park, NY 14127 1-716-652-7909
XK parts

From: thomas_guadagni@fmc.com (THOMAS GUADAGNI)
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 07:01:56 -0600
Subject: Re: GM Tranny in S-Type (Half-a-lump)

–IMA.Boundary.599168648
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Jim

Just in case installing the GMT700R4 becomes to much of a hassle, I
have a rebuilt Type 66 from a 81 XJ6 complete with drive shaft and oil
cooler. I’ll sell or trade you for the 700R4. I also have the 4.2
engine that came with it.

Tom Guadagni
Dublin, California

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: GM Tranny in S-Type (Half-a-lump)
Author: Jim Goring jgoring@FGS.com at Internet
Date: 10/31/96 1:08 PM

Hello all…

the GMT700R4 has arrived and awaits transplant surgery into the belly of
Bageera, my '65 Stype. I am quite excited about this, as i’ve heard the
4 speed tranny improves both off the line acceleration, and freeway
smoothness and fuel economy (RPM at 60 mph will drop from about 3,000 to
a little over 2,100… i think). All this, plus it may actually get out
of first gear, which the current busted BW unit wont do.

Installation to occur in a couple of weeks, will keep you posted.

IT WILL RIDE AGAIN!

Jim Goring

Frank, Goring & Straja Architects jgoring@FGS.com
1144 65th Street Voice: (510) 595 9000
Oakland, CA 94608 Fax: (510) 595 9209

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From: dparnell@shlci.ca
Date: Fri, 01 Nov 96 10:26:41 -0700
Subject: Seat Heaters XJ40 1987

<---- Begin Forwarded Message ---->

This is a resend of my first message regarding seat heater problems, can anyone
help please.

Does anyone know if it is possible to either repair or replace the seat heater
elements in my XJ40. I have checked the driver side and they show open ciruits
on both the seat base and seat back elements. The passenger seat shows an open
ciruit on the base only. My Jaguar wiring diagrams show a thermostat on the
drivers seat base, when I took my seat base off I found this to be a pressure
sensitive switch. Any comments!!!

Thanking you in advance

Derek

Derek Parnell
SHL Computer Innovations
1914 12th Avenue,
Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada S4R 6G2
(306) 525-7131 dparnell@shlci.ca

<---- End Forwarded Message ---->

Derek Parnell
SHL Computer Innovations
1914 12th Avenue,
Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada S4R 6G2
(306) 525-7131 dparnell@shlci.ca

From: dparnell@shlci.ca
Date: Fri, 01 Nov 96 10:27:21 -0700
Subject: Re: seeking remote door locks

<---- Begin Forwarded Message ---->

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 1996 14:42:53 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: seeking remote door locks

Having just purchased a flawless 1991 XJS Convertible, I no longer have the
serious mechanical challenges of the old '87 XJS to deal with.
Therefore I have no choice but to focus on smaller improvements to fulfill my
need to work on the Jaguar.
Surely a car of this stature should have been made with remote door locks.
You know, the ones with a little button on the key fob which operates from a
few feet away from the car.
Where can I purchase an aftermarket add-on kit for this??

I have a 1987 XJ40 and installed a Viper alarm system with remote door locks and
a command start system. The remote door locks work well, and it has the rolling
codes to help prevent copying.

Derek

Derek Parnell
SHL Computer Innovations
1914 12th Avenue,
Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada S4R 6G2
(306) 525-7131 dparnell@shlci.ca

<---- End Forwarded Message ---->

Derek Parnell
SHL Computer Innovations
1914 12th Avenue,
Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada S4R 6G2
(306) 525-7131 dparnell@shlci.ca

From: tts@cadvision.com (Dan Hayes)
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 09:21:14 -0700
Subject: SIII flashing radio

Hello all,
I imagine this isn’t the first time you have seen this question, but I’m new.
The radio in my cat is acting funny. I know Jags had funny theft protection
and reset
with the radio’s.
Mine works fine, same with the cassette.
Problem is that radio must be manually powered on each time I start the car and
it won’t hold its preset memory (in fact I can’t program any presets). All
the while
several of the LED’s flash constantly. I have no manual for the radio.
Does it need a reset or am I just a lunkhead?

Dan
SIII Sovereign '85
Calgary

From: Gregory Andrachuk MGB@UVVM.UVIC.CA
Date: Fri, 01 Nov 96 08:23:29 PST
Subject: split the list?

As another old-timer (on the list before there were 100 members), let me
add my thanks to Scott and to Nick for their invaluable work, and also
to say that as owner of a Series III saloon, I am interested in Jags
of ALL types. I am NOT in favour of splitting the list, and I agree
that the simple effort of a proper SUBJECT listing will save time
for the readers. In addition, we could save a considerable amount of
time and space if we responded to members individually with our witty
comments, and items NOT of general interest, instead of making all
of us wade through half line and one line responses. Enough.
Gregory Andrachuk

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 10:31:02 -0600
Subject: Environmental control

I don’t know how the hot air flow to the face and windshield vents are
controlled, but nothing seems to happen when I adjust the face temperature
control.

As someone once said,“If it doesn’t seem to be doing anything it is working
correctly.”

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: per@quantum.ece.ucsb.edu (Per Stenius)
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 96 8:41:59 PST
Subject: XJ6 S1 headlamps

Thanks for all the advice on this issue! I think the best solution is to try
to find a breaker somewhere in Canada, UK or Australia that can supply the
whole 7’’ outer headlamp ass’y with the wiring harness and all. Buying new
parts seems a bit cost-prohibitive right now (and since eventually I would like
to get those Hella H4 lamps, that alone will be pretty darn expensive…).
So, could anybody on the list from the “Brit-spec” countries (I presume Canada,
Australia, NZ, Europe would all do) recommend me a good/reliable breaker
that I could contact?
Thanks for your help!
Per

Per Stenius (http://www.ece.ucsb.edu/SQO/Per/)
Email: per@quantum.ece.ucsb.edu

From: “Lauren E. Pratt” pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 96 10:20:33 PST
Subject: Re: Engine wiring harness

Hunt

You wrote:

snip
I re-used the other connectors, by
using crimp splices with heat-melt lined heatshrink tubing.
snip

Dose this imply the heat shrink tubing has in inner lining that
melts to form a water proof or water resistant seal?

I have heard of this but don’t know where to get it. Do you know
of a source. Is this the cut to length tubing or the crimp splices
them selves? This would be a good item in any ones spares box.

TIA Cheers Lauren

Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 11/1/96
Time: 10:20:33 AM

This message was sent by Chameleon

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jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 2 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 488

re; suggestion
Re: No Sunroof On '85 Sovereign HE?
Re: XJ6 SI headlight conversions
Re: The HE designation.
Re: Split the List? Here we go again…
Pop Quiz
Pricing advise ‘E’ Type
Re: E-Type 2+2 S1 1966 seats & belts
Re: Fuel Switch question
re mark 2 brake fault
Re: XJS tail lamp
XKE ownership trace
[none]
Question re: Tape deck repair on Jag radio
Re: Jaguar Suppliers (posted monthly)
Re: Jaguar Suppliers (posted monthly)
Re: 70 E-Type/Electrical
Re: Vin Number Decoding…
Pop Quiz Answer
E-type body jig
Re: the real problem
Re: XJ40 mirror

From: COOPER ROBIN D COOPER_ROBIN_D@Lilly.com
Date: Fri, 01 Nov 1996 16:50:23 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: re; suggestion

well it appears that unwittingly i really put the cat amongst the pidgeons. i
have received many responses, most of them polite. there was quite a split,
some strongly in favour, some neutral , some negative and a very few apparently
really pissed off. as a compromise i would suggest that everone who posts a
message put at the beginning of their subject line the model of the car that is
being discussed, or if it is just a general question then put that. my last
comment before i finish with this subject would be to address some of the more
innapropriate comments. there does seem to be a certain arrogance amongst a few
of the longer term members especially to the newer members. i might add that
the list is for the benefit of everyone equally irrespective of length of
membership.furthermore a system of management of all the messages while very
appropriate when the group consisted of 80 members MAY not be the best one when
there are 10x that number and if the majority believe that at some time in the
future the list does need some fine tuning then we shouldn’t be hesitant in
doing so.robin cooper; 1967 E-type coupe; 1974 E-type conv.

From: TezFair@aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 12:00:19 -0500
Subject: Re: No Sunroof On '85 Sovereign HE?

In a message dated 31/10/96 22:53:33, you write:

I have a 1985 UK-Spec Sovereign HE and I am intrigued by the fact that it
has
no
sunroof. I have read in many places that all the Sovereigns in that year
came
with a sunroof as standard. Has a PO removed it? DId aliens seal it up? Or
is
my
information wrong, the sunroof actually being an option on a 1985 Sovereign
HE?
Just curious.

Daniel…

I used to fit sun-roofs

Anyway, as far as I can remember all UK specs had no sunroofs fitted as
standard, only as an optional extra. They were fitted as standard for the
Federal market.

Tez

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 12:28:34 -0005
Subject: Re: XJ6 SI headlight conversions

re: discussion of sealed beam vs. replaceable bulb headlights

 But I used sealed beams, 
 not the separate lamp type.  Maybe you'll need a different 
 connector?

I’d like to point out that J.C. Whitney – and probably other
sources as well – sell headlights that look like sealed beam and
fit where sealed beam headlights fit, but use replaceable H-4
halogen bulbs. The connector plugs right on, H-4 uses the same
connector as a sealed beam.

They are usually labelled “for off-road use only” both because they
are not sealed beam and because they may be fitted with bulbs that
have wattage ratings beyond legal limits for road use.

Oddly enough, I got a set years ago that WERE intended for road use.
They had glued a rubber boot over the back of the unit, making the
bulb unreplaceable and rendering the assembly a “sealed beam”. Of
course, once the bulb burns out, you just cut the rubber boot off and
replace it.

H-4 bulbs are available anywhere, including Wal-Mart. You can get
them in 55/60W if you wanna abide by the law, but you can also get
them in 80/100W, 90/130W, or 100/160W versions if you’d rather see
where you’re going.

Don’t worry about blinding oncoming drivers on low beam, no matter
what wattage bulbs you get. These headlights have a carefully
designed pattern the provides a sharp cutoff high and left. If you
pull up to a white wall, you can easily see the pattern. I don’t
know why all headlights don’t have it, but it really dims the beam
from the oncoming car’s view.

There is one other advantage to H-4’s, at least in cars where the
back side of the bulb is accessible. You can easily carry around a
spare H-4, and you can change it out in a minute from behind; no
need to pull the front end of the car apart. Of course, this won’t
help the XJ-S, you can’t get to the back side of the lights.

For normal street use with a four-headlight system (as the XJ’s
use), the normal wattage seems OK to me. However, on cars with only
two headlights, such as my wife’s Honda CRX, the illumination on
high beam is totally inadequate. A set of 90/130W really did the
trick on the wife’s car (these bulbs are more than adequate, while
the 100/160W cost twice as much).

No, we have never been stopped by the fuzz and written a ticket for
too many watts, and I’ve never heard of anybody that has, but I HAVE
heard of people getting in accidents at night because their
headlights were inadequate! Choose your own priorities.

Please note that going to double the stock wattage may require some
wiring changes in the car. The wife’s CRX ran the headlight power
from the main cable into the passenger compartment, to the stalk
switch, through the fusebox and back to the front, all with very
small wires. The voltage at the headlights was around 10.5, and the
lights were dim indeed. So, I installed a pair of relays (one
regular beam, one high beam) right up near the headlights with a big
wire directly from the battery and big wires to each headlight, and
operated the relays with the original wire from the stalk switch.
Now her headlights work like they should!

For anyone installing the 7" bulbs in their XJ6, the J.C. Whitney
catalog number is 13DH9317U for the assembly with the 55/60W bulb
($16.95 each), 88DH9556X with the 80/100W ($18.95) and 88DH9533W
with the 90/130W bulb ($19.95). Spare bulbs are 02DH3244R (55/60W,
$7.99), 14DH2879R (80/100W, $8.99), 14DH9375A (90/130W, $11.95) and
83DH0676X (100/165W, $21.95). This is from catalog number 594T.
J.C. Whitney’s number is 312-431-6102.

If you drive on the wrong side of the road, these units won’t do.
On low beam, they spread light down and to the right; you will need a set for down and to the left. J.C. Whitney can’t help ya. Now, I’ll make my personal recommendations: if your car has four quartz halogen sealed beam headlights, they may actually be adequate. If you have four non-halogen bulbs, replace them with halogens at least. If you have two sealed beams, I would recommend never buying another sealed beam for the car! Buy the H-4 systems instead; even if you use the 55/60W bulbs, the pattern is better, but I’d definitely go with higher wattage. By the way, there are replaceable-bulb units for the high beams of 4-headlight systems too. They use H-1 bulbs, which are available in 55W (legal), 100W, and 130W versions. Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | - Palm’s Postulate From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 12:28:32 -0005 Subject: Re: The HE designation. Bard: HE stands for High Efficiency and it appeared in connection with the V12-engines some time in the mid-eighties. Early eighties, actually. The “Fireball” heads had been given a special design of the combustion chambers. The new combustion chambers were referred to as a “fireball” design. That term wasn’t used for the pre-H.E. This was supposed to give better fuel economy, but it turned out that the opposite was a fact in most cases. Gee, I don’t think so. The XJ-S H.E. gets around 16 mpg (miles/US gallon) city, 18-20 highway. Word from some members of this group is that the pre-H.E. gets MUCH worse, like 9-12. Of course, your mileage may vary. In fact, if a few pre-H.E. owners would confirm what their mileages actually are, I’d probably mention it in the XJ-S help book. Checking if one’s mileage is something near what it should be is a good clue as to the condition of one’s car. Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | - Palm’s Postulate From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 12:28:32 -0005 Subject: Re: Split the List? Here we go again… I was having to wade through those threads four times due to the miracle of cross-posting. All those in favor of cross-posting should be shot. It’s gotten so bad on the newsgroups that several newsgroups are essentially the same newsgroup, people just automatically post to all of them. The intent of cross-posting – that info found on one list might be of use to members of another list – is precisely why the main jag-lovers list should be maintained no matter what. If you wanna know how to adjust the valves on your XK, then post the question to the XK list, but if you wanna know where the best place is to get your Jaguar aligned you can post that question to the jag-lovers list, so we all can respond and benefit from the response. Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | - Palm’s Postulate From: Ryan Border rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 10:27:46 -0800 Subject: Pop Quiz In the interest of helping us all keep our Jaguars running, I thought I’d offer up the following mechanics quiz. (The answer isn’t really Jaguar specific, but it’s the first thing to really stump me in a while). Car is driving along just fine. Stop at a light, and while idling car dies. Symptoms suggest out of fuel, so I push to parking lot. Refuel car and attmpt to get it going again: Car won’t re-start. It will easily fire up, with a resounding Vroom!, but as soon as it starts, it dies again. Stumped me, stumped the triple A guys, stumped the mechanic who finally found and fixed it for quite a while. Can you untangle this mechanical mystery? I’ll post the answer later today. (hint: it’s something simple) Mail guesses to me (don’t cc the list), and I’ll include a summary of the guesses and declare a ‘winner’ with the answer… Ryan. PS: Does anybody out there have an October issue “Car and Driver” handy? From: “MarrioSD” marriosd@ccmail.apldbio.com Date: Fri, 01 Nov 96 11:34:36 PDT Subject: Pricing advise ‘E’ Type Hi I’m looking at a 69 series II ‘E’ type 2+2 with a view to buying it (if I can convince the wife). I have no idea on pricing for these models. It is all original, 50 000 miles, good wires, new leather and padding on the front seats, the rest of the interior is in great shape. Original paint that would require painting but completely rust free. It’s been in California all it’s life and it’s a 3 owner car. Small dent in the bonnet under the right hand head light. AC needs attention and the valves are noisy (probably requires shimming) The asking price is $7000 firm. Question is, is this a good price and what is the chances of buying a similar condition series I 2+2 pre smog. Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated. Awaiting your reply, I’ll be working on the wife! Regards Steve From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 13:57:27 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: E-Type 2+2 S1 1966 seats & belts Sephan: I recently replaced the seats in my 1969 E-Type 2+2. The new ones had been professionally restored, and needed nothing. The old ones are sitting in my attic. They are complete except for the hinges and runners, with headrests, but the leather is dry and cracked. I think there is someone else on the list who has a set of hinges. If you are interested, I suppose that shipping could be arranged: but be warned that you may need a new set of seat covers. These were not stock seats in 1966, as far as I know, but the headrests are definitely a safety consideration. The seat belts in the '66 car would not have had automatic retractors or inertial stops. I think they used the Hickock belts, rather than the later Kangols. I use a complete set of Kangol automatic front restraints from a Series III, the only model on which they were available. These are available from XK’s Unlimited here in the states, and I’m sure would be available from a European distributor. Mike Frank 1969 E-Type At 08:12 AM 11/1/96 EST, you wrote:

Hi from a newbie:

Looking desparately for new seats w/headrests (!)
& four new automatic seat belts for my 2+2 in resto.

Any hints & tips are welcome !

Neither Jaguar Enthusiasts Club U.K. nor
JAG (Jaguar Association Germany) could help.

Have a look at my web site - just started
collecting jag links plus restorations’ sites.

Stephan Perthes - Darmstadt - Germany
E-Type 2+2 S1 1966 3xSUHD8 LHD.
This is Jaguar lovers’ site:

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Perthes/EType.htm

“Hope I die before I get old.” (C) 1967 Pete Townshend/The Who.

From: “David Tordoff” dtordoff@flash.net
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 12:55:58 -0600
Subject: Re: Fuel Switch question

I must have been suffering from cranial rectosis. I have a 1983 XJ6 Series III.
I failed to indicate that when I posted my question about the tank indicators.
Sorry!

From: “S.R. BROADY” acmevfsl@Direct.CA
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 11:46:46 -0800
Subject: re mark 2 brake fault

Had same problem with 59 Armstrong Siddeley it is the large piston in the
servo unit it is sticking and not allowing it to return therefor brakes
stay on.probably sum corrosion inside canister.

STEPHEN R. BROADY
59 Armstrong Star Saphire
86 XJ6
87 XJ6
acmevfsl@direct.ca

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 14:45:54 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJS tail lamp

On Thu, 31 Oct 1996, Christopher Margiotti wrote:

What exactly does the gothic lamp look like? I have noticed a difference

The older one is the gothic. The rear lip of the trunk and tailights
nicely pick up the shape of the rear window.

John

From: ffilangeri@juno.com (Frank A Filangeri)
Date: Fri, 01 Nov 1996 14:51:52 EST
Subject: XKE ownership trace

Hi Group,

I recently received my Jaguar Heritage Trust Record Trace Certificate and
was suprised to find the original owner for my 62 E OTS listed in
California! I have traced and met the previous two owners on Long Island
in New York, back to around 1963 (or so I was told) and was informed that
the car was originally from this area. I was wondering if anyone can
identify the first owner:

J.A. Hart
4-10 Legion St.
Laguna Beach, California      Purchased 1/11/62   Built

10/27/1961 (Happy Birthday to my car:-)

It is possible that this was a dealer or that it was sold to someone with
two homes (one in NY) and it never left the area. It is listed as being
shipped intp Jaguar Cars New York. Maybe they all were back then. Any
help or info from list members on the “other” coast would be appreciated.

Frank
62 E OTS Flat Floor
ffilangeri@juno.com

From: Walter Cameron wcameron@idirect.com
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 15:36:47 -0500
Subject: [none]

I have a 62 mk 2. I’m getting embarassed to park the beast anywhere for fear
of getting rude comments about driveway sealing operations. I know the rear
main seal is leaking since I didn’t install it carefully enough 15 years ago
when I first rebuilt the engine. Does anyone know if there is an alternative
to using the braided rope style of rear seal for this engine? It seems to me
to be an obvious thing that some engineering type would have done some work
on to improve. By the way, the BW automatic also drips so I am looking for a
source for seals for it also, one of the leaking points is the intermediate
speed hold device (at least that is what I think it is) on the side of the
transmission.
Any help is gratefully received.

From: Jim Brown brown@ns.net
Date: Fri, 01 Nov 1996 13:12:26 -0800
Subject: Question re: Tape deck repair on Jag radio

List-mates,

I’ve seen several references to inoperable tape decks associated with the
Jaguar radio (especially 1985-88). It seems that the deck will neither play
nor release a tape placed into it. I believe that I’ve also seen a
reference to a fix for this posted on the list. I’ve searched for it in
vain, however.
Does anyone have wisdom to offer regarding such a repair? Many thanks.

Jim Brown
1985 XJ-S HE

From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 22:22:56 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: Jaguar Suppliers (posted monthly)

Folks,

I know the suppliers list is only posted once a month but I still think
it is wasted bandwith for those of us not living in the US.

How about making the list into a Web page with a link from the Jag Lovers
Web site instead of posting it to the list?

Gunnar

From: TezFair@aol.com
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 16:35:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Jaguar Suppliers (posted monthly)

I know the suppliers list is only posted once a month but I still think
it is wasted bandwith for those of us not living in the US.

How about making the list into a Web page with a link from the Jag Lovers
Web site instead of posting it to the list?

Gunnar

I have to agree, it takes ages to download and there’s nothing of interest
for most of us outside of the US.

Tez

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 13:14:45 -0600
Subject: Re: 70 E-Type/Electrical

 I experienced similar problems with my '74 E-Type on two occasions.  
 The first time it turned out to be the voltage regulator.  (Mine has, 
 if I recall correctly, a Butec alternator and regulator.  The Jag 
 replacement cost a fortune, but it turned out that they are American 
 Leece-Neville (sp?) parts manufactured under license.  My local 
 alternator shop had an identical regulator for a lot less money.  I 
 replaced the data plate with the one from the original and you can't 
 tell the difference.)
 
 The second time, it was much simpler and easier.  Several connectors 
 had become corroded over time.  The low voltage output specifically 
 was cured when I cleaned the harness connector to the regulator.  
 Since you have intermittent voltage drops to zero (hence the radio 
 resetting) I'd guess wiring first in your case.
 
 MikeC

From: theo bremner tbremner@lynx.dac.neu.edu
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 19:16:19 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Vin Number Decoding…

Hello fellow list members…

I have an 85 Sovereign Series III European model that was

personally imported by the previous owner to the US… Clearly based on
the title, import documents and door stamp it is an 85 but when I talked
with a local Jag dealer he said by the VIN it was an 82 any explanation
for this discrepency or is it because the dealer only decodes US VIN’s
or what…
Appreciate any and all input…
Theo

From: Ryan Border rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 16:48:33 -0800
Subject: Pop Quiz Answer

The quiz:

Car is driving along just fine. Stop at a light, and while idling car dies.
Symptoms suggest out of fuel, so I push to parking lot. Refuel car and
attmpt to get it going again: Car won’t re-start. It will easily fire up,
with a resounding Vroom!, but as soon as it starts, it dies again.

Two hints were provided:

Explicit:

It’s something simple

Implicit- It’s not somthing obvious:

“Stumped me, AAA guys, and a shop for quite a while”

The guesses:

Aaron (aaron.burnett@attws.com): Clogged Fuel Filter
Dave (esdave@sgi0.sdrc.com): Vapor Lock
Lenny (lseidman@erols.com): Clogged Fuel Filter/vent tube
Lloyd (3030P@VM1.CC.NPS.NAVY.MIL): Fuel Filter / Stuck choke
Tom (thomas_guadagni@fmc.com): Ignition Switch
Merritt (mhsmith@fc.hp.com): Vacuum advance line loose
Mario (brackett@minotaur.uwimona.edu.jm): Gunked up carb &/or pumps
Hunt (hdabney@earthlink.net): Coil / Plug Wire
theo (tbremner@lynx.dac.neu.edu): Loose ignition wire at battery

I can at least say I checked all those possibilities (except for the vent
tube) out pretty carefully before conceding defeat, and pulling that
AAA card out of my wallet :-). Now the momement we’ve all been waiting for:

The correct answer is (drum roll): Dead Ballast Resistor.

It would pass enough current to charge the coil initially, but as soon
as the motor started running, the coil would starve for energy and
I’d lose ignition. The mechanic who solved it tried bypassing the
resistor (on a whim, I guess) and the car ran fine on the first try.
Replaced the resistor and it’s now as good as new. I’m still not sure if
the car ran out of gas, and the resitor died when I tried to re-start
it, or if the resistor failure was the cause of the initial stall.
Either way it turned out to only be a $10 fix…

I’ll delcare Tom the winner with the closest guess! He had the right
idea- ignition there at startup but not there when motor was running for
some reason. Wasn’t the switch that was cutting the power, it was just
the resistor not letting enough juice through to sustain ignition.

From: Lee Hoover lhoover2@worldnet.att.net
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 1996 01:41:47 +0000
Subject: E-type body jig

Hello All,

I am a new arrival to the jag-lovers list and am enjoying it a great deal.
I have a ‘64’ 3.8 e-type OTS. Well almost, I really have a basket case that
I bought 8 years ago and have been hauling around ever since. The day has
finally come to begin the long awaited restoration. Here is my question, I
need to build a jig for the body due to the extensive amount of work needing
to be done (Ok, that sentence is not really a question, here comes the
question!). Does anyone out there have any
suggestions/lessons-learned/gotcha’s to look out for?

As near as I can calculate, 2X3X.125 mild steel tubing will be adequate
material for the jig (minimal deflection). Any suggestions?

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 18:19:26 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: the real problem

Nick: My .02 worth. I have a key on my key board, it is a “D” this
means delete. If you don’t want to read the msg DELET “D” MSG. To me that
is just TOOOOOO simple.
Me I like to read what others have to say,CAUSE I REALLY DO NOT KNOW IT
ALL, yet that is, that is why I keep reading.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212 USA 803 798 3044

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 13:20:30 -0600
Subject: Re: XJ40 mirror

 My '88 XJ-S also has heated outside mirrors.  They are controlled by 
 the rear window defroster switch.
 
 MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: XJ40 mirror
Author: “Robert A. Bagramian” robtbagr@umich.edu at Internet
Date: 10/29/1996 5:31 PM

Took my drivers door outside mirror apart to reglue the glass and found
heating wires connected to the rear of the glass… Question… it
appears the outside rear view mirrors are wired for heating but I have no
idea how to activate them. There is no obvious switch that I can see on
the door console or any other spot… Is this an option that is
connected only on the Vanden Plas or am I missing something… Thanks
for any help… Bob Bagramian… 88XJ40

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #488

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jag-lovers-digest Sunday, 3 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 489

XJS painting chromed plastic
Re: Vin Number Decoding…
Re[2]: XK8 & Nikasil
RE: mysterious switch
Re: Pop Quiz Answer
Re: Vin Number Decoding…
re: Pop Quiz Answer
BW-8 Transmission question
Re: Re: Vin Number Decoding…
SIII EFI fuel pumps, general question
Another mystery
Re: E-type body jig
RE: mysterious switch -Reply
XJS (the monster lives!)
Re: XJS (the monster lives!)
Re: transmission swap in 74 xj63
Re: XJS (the monster lives!)
fuel mileage and hp
electrical short?
[none]

From: John Goodman 101547.1141@CompuServe.COM
Date: 01 Nov 96 18:07:14 EST
Subject: XJS painting chromed plastic

I have a '89 XJRS 6.0 with the factory de-chromed option (all the shiny bits
black). I want to install a twin headlamp conversion kit. but, according to
Jaguar new headlamp bezels only come in the chrome plated plastic. I assume from
this that the de-chrome option never made it to the US.

Can these plastic bits be de-chromed ? Or successfully painted or powder coated
? Will attacking the chrome with abrasive paper be any good to key the paint ?

The following is an extract of info I picked up on the Auto forum of Compuserve.

"The usual procedure for chrome plating plastic involves application of a
conductive paint, then plating with copper and then chrome.

You can probably remove the chrome by removing the paint underneath, with oven
cleaner, or any of those concentrated cleaners containing sodium hyroxide. Wear
eye protection and rubber gloves. Liberally spray the part with the goop, seal
it in a plastic bag, and wait.
I haven’t tried oven cleaner to remove chrome from plastic, but I have used it
to remove paint from plastic. Works like a charm, doesn’t harm the plastic.
Model railroaders use it on their delicate miniatures"

Any help appreciated

John Goodman 101547.1141@compuserve.com

'89 XJRS 6.0

From: cobac@ix.netcom.com
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 18:42:03 -0800
Subject: Re: Vin Number Decoding…

At 07:16 PM 11/1/96 -0500, you wrote:

Hello fellow list members…

I have an 85 Sovereign Series III European model that was
personally imported by the previous owner to the US… Clearly based on
the title, import documents and door stamp it is an 85 but when I talked
with a local Jag dealer he said by the VIN it was an 82 any explanation
for this discrepency or is it because the dealer only decodes US VIN’s
or what…
Appreciate any and all input…
Theo

Hi,
I have the following Vin information according to the “MOTOR import car
crash estimating guide” for the U.S.:

1st-3rd Position - Manufacturers Code
SAJ=Jaguar, United Kingdom

4th Position - Model Line
A=XJ6
A=Vanden Plas
C=Sovereign
F=XJ6
H=XJ6, Sovereign
K=Vanden Plas
M=Majestic
M=XJ12
N=XJS/XJSC
P=XJR/Sport
S=Jagsport
T=Rouge/Classic

5th Position - Class/Restraint
A=Passive Seat Belt (87-89)
T=Driver Air Bag w/Passive belt
V=Active Seat Belt
W=Driver Air Bag (90-95)
X=Driver & Pass Airbag
Y=N. American Spec (83-87)
Y=Passive Seat Belt (89-93)

6th Position - Body Style
1=4 door sedan
2=2+2 Convertible
3=2 door Cabriolet
4=Convertible
5=2 door coupe

7th Position - Engine Code
0=5.3l 12 cyl, Calif.
1=4.0l 6 cyl, Supercharged
2=4.2l 6 cyl, Calif.
3=4.2l 6 cyl
3=6.0l
5=3.6l 6 cyl low compression
6=3.6l 6 cyl high compression
7=4.0l 6 cyl
8=5.3l 12 cyl
9=4.0l 6 cyl

8th Position - Transmission & Steering
4=Automatic (LHS)
8=Manual (LHS)

9th Position - Check Digit

10th Position - MODEL YEAR
D=1983
E=1984
F=1985
G=1986
H=1987
J=1988
K=1989
L=1990
M=1991
N=1992
P=1993
R=1994
S=1995

11th Position - Assembly Plant
C=Browns Lane, England

12th-17th Position - Production Sequence Number

Hope this helps a little in figuring out what the dealer told you. I copied
this exactly from the book, and it does match up with the items in my 89
XJ40-VDP.

Regards,
Eric
cobac@ix.netcom.com

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 1996 14:58:55 -0600
Subject: Re[2]: XK8 & Nikasil

This is a Mime message, which your current mail reader
may not understand. Parts of the message will appear as
text. To process the remainder, you will need to use a Mime
compatible mail reader. Contact your vendor for details.

–IMA.Boundary.744218648
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Description: cc:Mail note part

FWIW: Light aircraft engines (e.g. Lycoming) often have their bores
chrome plated when rebuilt. I’ve never actually seen one apart, but
was told that it is done to return the bore to the original specified
diameter.

Also, GM spent a lot of engineering developing linerless aluminum
blocks. The most infamous being the Chevy Vega. The blocks were a
silicon/aluminum alloy of some sort. The theory was that the bores
were etched in a way that removed aluminum but left a few thousandths
think layer of exposed silicon for the pistons and rings to ride
against. I guess it worked great in the lab, but in the great outdoor
lab we all drive in it failed miserably. The engines failed in about
35,000 miles. The good news was that it created a large supply of
beaters that could be had for next to nothing. I bought a '74 Vega
wagon in '76 for $200 with only 37,000 miles on it. I yanked the
engine and sleeved it with a TRW kit (they must have made a mint with
that kit). Once it was sleeved, it ran great. I put another 150,000
or so miles on it, mostly using it to haul junk I’d never put in a
respectable car.

The moral is that aluminum pistons worked a lot better in an iron
bore.

MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: XK8 & Nikasil
Author: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au at Internet
Date: 10/30/1996 9:41 AM

Anyway, this bike - the “Silver Arrow” - had an aluminium cylinder with a bore
that was described as “hard-chrome-plated”. The plating looked very thick
(edges visible in the ports, this was a two-stroke) and was honed after
plating. I never heard of the slightest problem. I also never heard of one
being rebored. Any comment, Jim?

-Jan
–IMA.Boundary.744218648–

From: Mike Everatt meveratt@Direct.CA
Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 19:30:47 -0800
Subject: RE: mysterious switch

On my XJ40, the fifth switch operates the seat heaters. It’s the one closest to the dash, and it lights up when on. The other four operate the seat position. Unfortunately, the mirrors stay frosty until you turn on the rear defogger ** . Sunroof switches are on the headliner. (Which can cause some real problems if you use the wrong finger to hit the switch, while being followed by a Jag-hater!) **will I ever live it down… Mike Everatt Reading my manual again! From: Dieter Hachenberg[SMTP:hached01@bh.bbc.co.uk] Sent: Thursday, October 31, 1996 3:02 AM To: jag-lovers@sn.no Subject: mysterious switch Dear list I picked up my '85 Sovereign yesterday. As its secondhand, there is no handbook with it. Whilst I intend to order an owners handbook straightaway, can anybody tell me what the 5th swicth on the centre console is for below the armrest as it does not seem to do anything (I don’t have a sunroof). Also one of my tanks does noot register on the petrol gauge - is this a common fault -is it easy to fix? Many thanks for all you help and comments up till now. Dieter Hachenberg '85 SIII Sov XJ6 From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net Date: Fri, 1 Nov 1996 22:21:26 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Pop Quiz Answer The correct answer is (drum roll): Dead Ballast Resistor. It would pass enough current to charge the coil initially, but as soon as the motor started running, the coil would starve for energy and I’d lose ignition. The mechanic who solved it tried bypassing the resistor (on a whim, I guess) and the car ran fine on the first try. Cars that will do this trick have a ballast resistor by-pass built in to the starting circuit. While cranking, full juice to the coil. As soon as you release the key, the (Defunct) ballast is brought back in to the curcuit, and the car dies. this is not applicable to most Jag’s. “Stumped me, AAA guys, and a shop for quite a while” A professional mechanic that, when presented with these symptoms, does not immediately think “bad ballast” ought to turn in his vise-grips. attmpt to get it going again: Car won’t re-start. It will easily fire up, with a resounding Vroom!, but as soon as it starts, it dies again. Lets play again. Take the exact same symptoms, but specify the car… say a '85 XJ6 4.2, Bosch L-jet, Ducillier coil on electronic ignition. I.E. a standard US spec car. Two hints: 1> it is electrical. 2> when the ballast on the ducillier goes bad, the car is DEAD. No starting ballast bypass. Randy K. Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net Date: Sat, 2 Nov 1996 00:47:49 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Vin Number Decoding… At 07:16 PM 11/1/96 -0500, you wrote:

Hello fellow list members…

I have an 85 Sovereign Series III European model that was
personally imported by the previous owner to the US… Clearly based on
the title, import documents and door stamp it is an 85 but when I talked
with a local Jag dealer he said by the VIN it was an 82 any explanation
for this discrepency or is it because the dealer only decodes US VIN’s
or what…
Appreciate any and all input…
Theo

Hi,
I have the following Vin information according to the “MOTOR import car
crash estimating guide” for the U.S.:
…
11th Position - Assembly Plant
C=Browns Lane, England

Regards,
Eric
cobac@ix.netcom.com

I was caught out on this by the first grey-market car I worked on…
or, at least, the first one where I had to prove model year. The list Eric
provided is correct for US cars. However, the Euro cars I’ve seen have all
had a “C” in the 10th position. “C” is 1982. In retrospect, it would appear
that there is a single character difference between the two, such that the
11th character “C” (Assmebly plant) is showing up as the tenth in the Euro
VIN. With list in hand, and car in front of you, it should be easy enough to
determine if this is true, and if it is, which character is omitted.

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Fri, 01 Nov 96 23:31:00 PST
Subject: re: Pop Quiz Answer

 Ryan,
 
 Great pop quiz.  And even though I didn't see the quiz till after 
 the answer was posted - I would have failed the quiz.  But on my 
 '70 E-type, the starter relay bypasses the ballast resistor while 
 the starter is engaged.  (The center connector on the relay goes to 
 the ballast to short it.)  Gives a better spark to wake up the 
 engine.  So the ballast on my car could be gone altogether and the 
 car would fire while the starter cranks and die as soon as the 
 starter relay drops out (i.e. key off).  This is all academic, of 
 course, your car is fixed now....
 
 David

From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Sat, 02 Nov 96 00:15:00 PST
Subject: BW-8 Transmission question

 Honorable jag-lovers,
 
 My '70 E-type 2+2 is in partial-kit form, as you recall.  The 
 tranny is out due to massive fluid leaks.  I visited the surgery 
 today and the tranny is now off to the tranny man for new seals, 
 and (predicably) new cluthes and (not predicted) new valve body due 
 to cracks.
 
 My question is, while the tranny man has the BW-8 open, is there 
 anything else we ought to be doing for performance, like a 
 different valve body or torgue converter or????  Please send a 
 reply directly to me, or if it's realllly good send to the entire 
 list.  But hurry - Tuesday the BW box will be buttoned up, money 
 will change hands, and it'll be TOO LATE.
 
 Yes, I did think about doing a manual conversion instead of leaving 
 the auto box in, but decided to draw the line here.  I'll go 
 bananas on the next car (which I'm dreaming of now).
 
 General update: I spent the morning cleaning and bead-blasting all 
 the little parts and rock shields from the engine compartment, in 
 preparation for painting and powder-coating.  I enjoy hanging 
 around my mechanic's garage - it's a clean, well-lighted place for 
 tools, and the mechanics there are excellent.  I'm worried though - 
 everytime I look at a part I take it off, draw a picture, and take 
 it apart to detail it.  So far more parts keep coming off and 
 apart.  None are back together yet.
 
 Best,
 
 David
 '70 E-type 2+2
 '84 XJ6 VDP

From: cuno@macworld.ch (Cuno Schneeberger)
Date: 02 Nov 1996 11:26:04 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: Vin Number Decoding…

I have an 85 Sovereign Series III European model that was
personally imported by the previous owner to the US… Clearly based on
the title, import documents and door stamp it is an 85 but when I talked
with a local Jag dealer he said by the VIN it was an 82 any explanation
for this discrepency or is it because the dealer only decodes US VIN’s
or what…
Appreciate any and all input…
Theo

European Jags do not have a character code for the model year in the VIN (at
least this is true for my XJ-S, I suppose it is true for your Series III
too). The only way I was able to determine the year my XJ-S was built was to
look for a book that told me when what serial number (in the VIN) was built.
The 10th character in the XJ-S VIN stands for H.E. or non H.E. V12.

Hope that helps.

Cuno
cuno@macworld.ch

From: BSherw@aol.com
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 1996 08:33:12 -0500
Subject: SIII EFI fuel pumps, general question

I recently opened the fuel pump from my '85 XJ6; since it wasn’t working,
I figured I couldn’t hurt anything. By smoothing the crimps in the housing,
the outlet end comes off, and the motor and pump will also come out.
I was able to repair the pump: there was just a piece of grit jammed in
the pump rollers. ( If you’d like more details on the repair, email me
direct.)

With the pump pieces in my hand, I made a startling (to me) observation:
fuel is constantly circulating through the motor itself. Here is a
permanent magnet motor, with an armature and brushes, operating in a
flammable environment. Every PM motor I ever saw had some slight
sparking from the brushes during normal operation. I can understand
that when the pump is full of fuel, there is no air to support combustion,
but what happens when youve just run your tank empty, and the pump is
also sucking in air? Will you suddenly be driving a fenderless roadster?

Any comments?
Brian Sherwood (bsherw@aol.com)

From: hached01@bh.bbc.co.uk (Dieter Hachenberg)
Date: 02 Nov 96 13:45:13 GMT
Subject: Another mystery

Inside my glove compartment of my Series 3 Sovereign there is a swith
that seems cause the car to die in one position. What is this for? Do all
XJ6’s have these?

Dieter Hachenberg

From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 1996 10:18:51 -0500
Subject: Re: E-type body jig

On Nov 2, 1:41am, Lee Hoover wrote:

Subject: E-type body jig
Hello All,

I have a ‘64’ 3.8 e-type OTS. Well almost, I really have a basket case that
I bought 8 years ago and have been hauling around ever since. The day has
finally come to begin the long awaited restoration. Here is my question, I
need to build a jig for the body due to the extensive amount of work needing
to be done (Ok, that sentence is not really a question, here comes the
question!). Does anyone out there have any
suggestions/lessons-learned/gotcha’s to look out for?

As near as I can calculate, 2X3X.125 mild steel tubing will be adequate
material for the jig (minimal deflection). Any suggestions?
– End of excerpt from Lee Hoover

I had a similar situation. My '65 ots had rusted out inner and outer sills,
floors, rear bulkhead and an enormous hole in the rear quarter. The trans
tunnel was about the only thing holding the car together.
I did not make a jig.
We jacked/shimmed the car up in the appropriate spots till we had all of the
critical areas aligned i.e. door gaps and suspension mounting points. We then
welded tubes from the front bulkhead and A-pillars to the rear B-pillar and
rear bulkhead (found a solid spot) diagonal as well as longitudinal. We then
cut out and replaced one sill and floor half at a time, trying to maintain as
much structure as we could at any given time during the renewal (we only cut
away old material as we were ready to replace it). Removed tubular braces when
we finished.
Seems to have worked. Everything went together well, and alignment checks
out. The body looks good, we leaded all the seams and it is ready for paint.
It’s been ready for paint since 1990, but you know how it goes…
My father was not so lucky. He just had the rear floors replaced on his '69
coupe. The radius arm mounts on the floor must be off because one of the rear
wheels hits the rear sway bar. I assume that the radius-arms are twisting the
suspension sideways causing the misalignment. We will either cut the floor out
and do it over or just move the forward radius arm mounting points to the
correct locations - they may only be off a few mm, but what a pain. The guy who
did the work didn’t check alignment points. As I’m sure you know, these body
measurements can be found in the shop manual.

Mark McChesney

From: Steve Draper s_draper@wcsr.com
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 1996 10:34:10 -0500
Subject: RE: mysterious switch -Reply

Mike Everatt wrote:
…Unfortunately, the mirrors stay frosty until you turn on the rear
defogger **…

Mike, I’d be little surprised if your seatheat switch did activate the mirror
heaters. The jag electronics system doesn’t work on electricity, it
works on some curse. I can tell rain is coming when my xj-s doors
won’t lock. Windshield wipers activating the seat heaters means seven
more weeks of warm weather. In fact, sometimes the car won’t start
unless you circle it three times waving a chicken bone, chanting “Lucas,
Lucas…”

----Steve
'88 xj-s
'89 xj40vdp
e-mail at:
s_draper@wcsr.com

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sat, 02 Nov 1996 14:11:11 -0600
Subject: XJS (the monster lives!)

Its Alive…Its Alive…He…He…He…Heh.

I worked well into the night taking parts from other bodies and matching
them to his, then, in the wee hours of the morning, I attached two
electrical conductors to the lead terminals in his throat. Lacking a
thunderstorm to generate lightning I used the key and he bagan to shudder,
first 10 cylinders, then 11, then finaly all 12 cylinders were filled with life.

Yes, he is ALIVE!!!

I even added a quart of that slippery stuff to the crank case. I dont care
what anyone says, I have been using the stuff in every car I ever owned for
over 30 years (about 15 million miles cumlative) and you can’t convince me
it doesnt work!

Today it finaly took the '85 XJS for a spin with the cooling system
improvements. It runs with the needle just on the bottom edge of the “N” at
70 MPH cruise and outside temp of 72 degrees F. The oil pressure is now 60
at cruise and 30 at idle. The water temp needle droping to about 2/3 of the
way from C to N whenm driving 40 MPH in a residential area. I think
everything was a success.

BUT… One question… How do you check the coolant level without
loosing coolant? The system stays pressurised (two hours later!) and when I
loosen the cap on the crossover pipe it surges coolant all over the place.

I can’t check it with the cap on the header tank (which has an overflow tube
to take care of the pressure) because that is below the other cap and would
flow over just because of its low position.

Filling it I found that after following the directions in the book (removing
both caps and filling until the header cap ran over, then putting that cap
on and continuing to fill till full at the top) I could still get more in if
I would shake the car to get all the air out. Add a pint, shake the car,
add a pint, shake the car, add a pint etc. until no more bubbles come up.

But it bothers me that I can’t check the level once full and in use.

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sat, 02 Nov 1996 16:20:05 -0600
Subject: Re: XJS (the monster lives!)

Er ah, 15,000,000 miles or 500,000 a year for 30 years? A bit of an
exaggeration perhaps? (grin)
And might I also suggest a spell checker…(he adds rubbing salt into
the already opened wound)…

ooopS. I meant to say 1,500,000 miles I have a degree in math, not typinf!

As to the spelling, alas 'tis true. It seems the talent for spelling and
the talent for engineering do not usualy reside in the same body.

My word processor has a spell checker, but unfornutately Eudora Mail does not.

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: richard pilant pilant@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sat, 02 Nov 1996 14:56:58 -0800
Subject: Re: transmission swap in 74 xj63

i have a 1974 xj6II with the model 65 transmission. does anybody know if
i can change to a chevy automatic transmission and keep the 4.2 jag
engine???
thank you dick pilant in california>

From: “Donald R. Farr” d.farr@phx.cox.com
Date: Sat, 02 Nov 1996 17:03:17 -0700
Subject: Re: XJS (the monster lives!)

Jim Isbell continues…

My word processor has a spell checker, but unfornutately Eudora Mail does not.

See that’s what you get for using Eudora…Netscape has a fine Mail
system and several spelll ckekrs to choos frm. It workd well too!

don

Donald R. Farr
Paradise Valley, AZ 85253
(602) 948-7499 - fax
91 Sovereign
d.farr@phx.cox.com - e-mail
http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/dfarr.htm - Don’s Homepage
http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/jetta1.htm - Jetta Notebook Computers
http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/march10.htm - Wireless products
http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/ncs1.htm - National Consulting Services

From: “larry doyon@penn.com” leap4l@penn.com
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 1996 19:19:31 -0500 (EST)
Subject: fuel mileage and hp

    On the question about fuel mileage,my 85xjs has managed as much as18.6 on the road if I don't lean on her too hard.I don't drive in the city therefore no answer on that one. I  do have one question to throw out to the list,what is the rated HP on the V12-HE.Any body tried some of the tweeks in Kirby's book and noticed the difference. with turpentine kisses, jenN :) enmitylove@aol.com love, peace, empathy, desire, mischief, and gladness From: "Kevin P. Campbell" <kckckc@qni.com> Date: Sat, 02 Nov 1996 18:34:48 -0800 Subject: electrical short? Gentlemen Any advice for a battery drainage of 0.34 amps? The fuse that is pulled to stop the drain is the interior light, radio antena , clock. Traced the lines for the drivers door and under dash area and no luck.  Suggestions? How long will it take 1/3 amp to drain a new battery?  Thanks for any help. Kevin Campbell Kansas City kckckc@qni.com From: arnie@qnet.com (Ted Arnold) Date: Sat, 2 Nov 1996 18:33:43 -0800 (PST) Subject: [none] signoff End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #489 ******************************** Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4) id <BAA11489> for jag-lovers-digest-out; Mon, 4 Nov 1996 01:21:53 +0100 (MET) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 01:21:53 +0100 (MET) Message-Id: <199611040021.BAA11489@ekeberg.sn.no> From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no Subject:   jag-lovers-digest V2 #490 Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Precedence: bulk X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest jag-lovers-digest         Monday, 4 November 1996      Volume 02 : Number 490 XJS: Kirby Palm's XJ-S Help [SIII XJ6] Sorry, another (near) dead cat 85 XJ-S: trip computer Re: transmission swap in 74 xj63 Re: 7" XJ OUter Headlight response Re: XJS (the monster lives!) - cooland level check RE: mysterious switch RE:Another mystery RE:electrical short? 85 XJ-S: trip computer -Reply Re: transmission swap in 74 xj63 Re: VIN Numbers and Emissions Re: electrical short? Wire Wheel Cleaners: Product Review XJ-40 Power Steering pump boot lock Bypass Filters another view. Access to a locked boot... Defroster fog XJS questions about procedure Jaguar Sport XJ6 Fuel gauge 1970 OTS (E-Type, of course) for sale. From: Derek Hibbs <Derek.Hibbs@wizardis.com.au> Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 14:10:20 +1100 Subject: XJS: Kirby Palm's XJ-S Help Hello fellow XJ-S Owners, Kirby's XJ-S Help book (October 3 edition) is now available as a Windows help file. I have cleared it with Kirby and he suggested I post to Jag-Lovers. I intend to keep the edition in sync with the DOC file edition. If you download it, please drop me a quick message so I can gauge the level of interest. You'll find it at: http://wizardis.com.au/~derekh Regards, Derek Hibbs Canberra, Australia 77 XJ-S From: Gunnar Helliesen <gunnar@bitcon.no> Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 04:23:51 +0100 (MET) Subject: [SIII XJ6] Sorry, another (near) dead cat Two weeks ago today (Sunday Oct. 20) I crashed Alexandra but good.  Nobody's fault but my own, I came too fast into a turn, the rear end came  sliding and I lost control. I haven't posted a word about this to the list before now because I've been  to depressed about the whole thing. I used to read every message on Jag  Lovers but after the crash reading the list only made me more depressed. Well I'm back, sort of. Apart from a sore hip and a stiff neck I'm physically OK. I have no  doubts whatsoever that seatbelts saved my life. Buckle up, you hear! I  went off the road at around 80 km/h (50mph) and hit a wall of dirt and  large stones/boulders head on. The next thing I remember is that the car  stood still, still on the road but across it and facing in the opposite  direction of the impact. A witness driving in front of me said that the  last thing he saw of my car in his mirror before he went around the next  turn was the roof. I guess I was very lucky that the car didn't roll  over. He turned his car around and came back expecting to find a lot of  blood and loose bodyparts. He was amazed when he saw me standing on my  own two feet beside the wreck. I guess Jaguars are pretty solid after  all. And now? Well, I'm still a bit depressed but getting better. The  insurance company (yes, I was fully covered) finally agreed to ship the  car to Norway's only Jaguar dealer in Oslo for inspection and maybe even  repair. They have estimated that to repair the car will cost around 190,000  kroner (that's no less than US $29,230) and that the car was worth around  210,000 kroner (US $32,300) before the crash. Some of you might wonder  how an '86 Series III XJ6 can be worth that much money, keep in mind that  this is Norway, the most expensive country in the (more or less) civilized  world. The Jaguar dealer tells me they still have high hopes of getting  the insurance company to agree to repair the car, it's all a game of give  and take they say. They'll lower their price until either they can't go  any lower or the insurance company accepts the price and gives the  go-ahead on repairs. The alternative is to declare the car a lost cause  and pay me what the car was worth before the crash (minus whatever  defects/rust/whatever they can find on the wreck). I don't want this as  I'm sure to loose money on it. I want Alexandra back, I miss her terribly  already. So for now I've bought a 20 year old Mercedes 280 with a "kinda-lumpectomy"  (some PO put in a 4 cylinder 2.4 l diesel engine) just to have something to  drive to work in. *If* Alexandra is repaired the Jaguar dealer tells me  it's going to take 2-3 months before I get her back. Lessons learned? Although the XJ6 has a race-bred engine and suspension  it is not a sports car. The laws of nature apply even to Jaguars. Old  tires/tyres (even with plenty of thread left) is not a good idea if you  like to go through corners fast. Always use seatbelts. Don't  overestimate your driving skills. Although they are cats, Jaguars haven't  got nine lives. Always a Jag Lover,  but for now rusty old Merc driver,  Gunnar Gunnar Helliesen   | Bergen IT Consult AS  | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway        | '86 Jaguar XJ6 4.2 Sovereign gunnar@bitcon.no   | http://www.bitcon.no/ | Vicki who? What .sig virus? From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik) Date: Sat, 02 Nov 1996 20:53:05 -0700 Subject: 85 XJ-S: trip computer Hi all, The trip computer in my 85 XJ-S will not re-set the fuel/miles settings. The time re-sets fine and the computer displays the running totals for all the functions.  Its just the re-setting back to zero that doesn't seem to work.  Any suggestions???  Any one out there that you know of that sevices these pups???? Thanks in advance, Rob W-M 85 XJ-S From: Jim Goring <jgoring@ccnet.com> Date: Sat, 02 Nov 1996 21:59:56 -0700 Subject: Re: transmission swap in 74 xj63 richard pilant wrote:

i have a 1974 xj6II with the model 65 transmission. does anybody know if
i can change to a chevy automatic transmission and keep the 4.2 jag
engine???
thank you dick pilant in california>

I’m doing it on my 65 S-type using one of those Johns Cars kits. I’ll
let you know how it goes…

gonna put in a t700r4… maybe two weeks now.

-jim Goring… also in California

From: Greg Meboe meboe@mulder.scs.wsu.edu
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 1996 23:34:28 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 7" XJ OUter Headlight response

On Thu, 31 Oct 1996, Per Stenius wrote:

Has anybody done this conversion,

Yes, several on the list (including myself) have done the conversion. The
only tricky part is threading the Jag (Lucas) wiring out of the old 5.75
bucket and into the 7" bucket. I made a small metal picking tool to
disassemble the connector.

Where did you get the parts from, and at what price?

This should not be a problem. Pick your favourite British Sports car
which has 2 round headlights, TR-6, MGB, Spitfire, Midget, and buy the
used bucket assemblies from a british wrecking yard. You may have to
grind off the trim ring retention tab, since the Jag doesn’t use one
(bucket mounted spring tab that is).

I don’t know if I should mention this, but this week I will go to a French
break yard to purchase several? 7" Hella headlights (used on VW Golf) for
the Jag as well as my collection of Triumphs. The Golfs here have the 7"
H4 light, with the smaller “pilot” light inside (allowing the lamps to
GLOW when the parking lights are on – very cool). Depending on the
price, I may be able to bring back more than I need for my own cars.

	Greg
                        Greg Meboe     meboe@atc.boeing.com
		  Web site>> http://www.scs.wsu.edu/~meboe
		    Mechanical Engineer  Boeing Payloads Division
		    '85 XJ-12 H.E. (daily)  '67 Spit-6 '74 TR-6

From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Sun, 03 Nov 1996 09:16:30 GMT
Subject: Re: XJS (the monster lives!) - cooland level check

In message 199611022018.OAA29763@mail.utexas.edu JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell) writes:

It runs with the needle just on the bottom edge of the “N” at
70 MPH cruise and outside temp of 72 degrees F. The oil pressure is now 60
at cruise and 30 at idle. The water temp needle droping to about 2/3 of the
way from C to N whenm driving 40 MPH in a residential area.

Mine stays rock solid just below the N except on a hot day in stop-and-go
traffic with the a/c on. (Or if I switch on the headlights Seriously
though, if your car runs noticeably warmer at 70mph than at 40mph, something’s
wrong. (Cue Kirby and seized centrifugal advance.)

BUT… One question… How do you check the coolant level without
loosing coolant?

Easy. On a COLD system. Do it the morning after.

Add a pint, shake the car,
add a pint, shake the car, add a pint etc. until no more bubbles come up.

Actually, it’s add a pint, run the engine, repeat as necessary. Yes it’s
a pain, but that’s how the book says it should be done.

Welcome back with the V12 gang.

Regards,

Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
'88 XJ-S V12

From: Barrie Dawson DAWSONB@btcec3.agw.bt.co.uk
Date: Sun, 03 Nov 1996 10:33:07 -0800
Subject: RE: mysterious switch

Dieter,

The switch you refer to is a window lift lock. In one position the
windows operate normally, in the other the window switches are
imobilised.

Your fuel guage problem sounds like a faulty sender. You will need
to empty that tank to replace the sender. It’s not a difficult job
but like all jag work extremely time consuming.

Barrie Dawson
Chatham, Kent England

1985 Series III Sovereign

From: Barrie Dawson DAWSONB@btcec3.agw.bt.co.uk
Date: Sun, 03 Nov 1996 10:38:10 -0800
Subject: RE:Another mystery

Dieter,

There is only one switch as standard in the glove compartment, the light
switch. This extra switch sounds like an engine imobiliser fitted by
a previous owner.

Barrie Dawson
Chatham, Kent England

1985 Series III Sovereign

From: Barrie Dawson DAWSONB@btcec3.agw.bt.co.uk
Date: Sun, 03 Nov 1996 11:45:15 -0800
Subject: RE:electrical short?

Kevin,

I have had this problem with a Wolesley 16/60 and spent days trying
to solve it. After testing every light fitting and switch in the
interior light circuit I found nothing wrong. What I had noticed
was the drain only occured when there was moisture in the air. This
suggested to me that the door switches, which are more exposed than the
light fitting, were the cause. I replaced all the switches and kept
them regularly sprayed with a moisture repelant.

Barrie Dawson
Chatham, Kent England

1985 Series III Sovereign

From: Steve Draper s_draper@wcsr.com
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 08:33:03 -0500
Subject: 85 XJ-S: trip computer -Reply

Rob, I think the secret is to hold the reset button down for about 10
seconds (the manual says five). Time resets without such a delay, but
other functions do not. Good luck.

–Steve
'88 xj-s
'89 xj40vdp
e-mail at:
s_draper@wcsr.com

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 09:53:57 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: transmission swap in 74 xj63

Dick: Yes call John’s Cars 214 426 4100 they have a kit to do the job.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044On
Sat, 2 Nov 1996, richard pilant wrote:

i have a 1974 xj6II with the model 65 transmission. does anybody know if
i can change to a chevy automatic transmission and keep the 4.2 jag
engine???
thank you dick pilant in california>

From: Kroppe kroppe@mich.com
Date: Sun, 03 Nov 1996 11:32:12 -0500
Subject: Re: VIN Numbers and Emissions

EXCELLENT posting from cobac@ix.netcom.com
on VIN numbers!

My car: SAJAV1244CC344172

Because of the “2” in the seventh digit, my
engine is 4.2L, 6 cyl California emissions.

My car has :

- fuel injection with early fuel rail
- no EGR
- no air injection into cylinder head
- downpipe catalyst
- underfloor catalyst

The EGR and air injection were never on
my car, because to remove it you would have
to plug some holes, and I have no plugged
holes in the cylinder head or elsewhere.

From what little I know about CA emissions,
I do not have a CA car, although my VIN
says I do.

What is the difference between California
and non-California in terms of hardware on
the car? Is it just fuel/spark programming
in the ECU?

Thanks for any and all replies.

B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6 (CA or not??)

From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 08:58:09 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: electrical short?

Disconnect each device one at a time, to see whcih is the cause. 0.3A is
much more than I’d expect, although it would take many days to drain the
battery meaningfully.

At 06:34 PM 11/2/96 -0800, Kevin P. Campbell wrote:

Gentlemen

Any advice for a battery drainage of 0.34 amps? The fuse that is pulled
to stop the drain is the interior light, radio antena , clock.

Traced the lines for the drivers door and under dash area and no luck.

Suggestions?

How long will it take 1/3 amp to drain a new battery?

Thanks for any help.

Kevin Campbell

Kansas City

kckckc@qni.com

From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 12:24:02 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Wire Wheel Cleaners: Product Review

Just picked up a bottle of Wesley’s Espree’ (pronounced E-Spray!) wire
wheel cleaner. To use it, you first hose down the wheel. Then you spray the
product on the wheel, allow to sit for one minute, and hose off. The results
are fairly good. All brake dust and normal road grime is removed with
minimal effort. However, once it all dries out, there is a hazy film on the
wheel which must be wiped off. All in all, it is easier than more
traditional methods, but doesn’t completely dispense with the hand labor.

Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2

From: RDIAZ@maila.harris.com (RDIAZ)
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 08:48:34 -0500
Subject: XJ-40 Power Steering pump

 The power steering pump in my 1990 XJ40 is leaking.  Any suggestions 
 regarding rebuilding it or replacing it?  Also before I venture to 
 remove it, are there any tricks or special things to consider?  This 
 is the type that is direct driven by the distributor cam (what a 
 pain!).
 
 Any help / advise would be greatly appreciated!
 
 Ricardo Diaz
 rdiaz@harris.com
 1990 XJ40
 ------------------------------------------------<end>

From: “Kevin P. Campbell” kckckc@qni.com
Date: Sun, 03 Nov 1996 13:22:16 -0800
Subject: boot lock

Once again I find myself in a war of wills with my 85 XJ-6. The boot is
locked and not to ever open again!. The keys are fine… I reconnected
the arm from the boot solonoid, closed it and now I can’t manage to
unlock it or raise the lever to release the latch mechanism… HELP…

Any ideas short of dynamite?

Kevin Campbell

kckckc@qni.com

From: Richard Griffiths 73564.2101@CompuServe.COM
Date: 03 Nov 96 14:32:11 EST
Subject: Bypass Filters another view.

Mike
Consider this, one micron is equal to 0.000039 in. whereas the critical
clearances in an engine are probably on the order of 25 microns (no doubt
someone out there can tell us what the real values are ). I would agree that
supplemental filters can improve the overall level of cleanliness in the sump,
however it is the oil supplied to the critical areas that is important in terms
of preventing wear.
Filtering to " well under one micron " might be appropriate for tropical fish,
but does anyone believe particles of that size would harm a JAG ? really ! I
don’t , my cars will continue to get an occasional oil change (sans additives)
with a new filter somewhere around the recommended interval.
Also note that filtration level, and element life claims are meaningless without
additional information about the quantity of particles removed and the
contaminant holding capacity etc.
Another thought does anyone know what the cleanliness standard for a fresh can
of oil is ? Maybe the worse thing we can do to our Jag is to put in new " dirty
" oil after spending 3000 miles cleaning the old stuff.

Caveat Emptor
RG
'86 XJS-C
'86XJ6

From: “Kevin P. Campbell” kckckc@qni.com
Date: Sun, 03 Nov 1996 15:39:53 -0800
Subject: Access to a locked boot…

Gentlemen and Ladies,

After much #&%$@(%^ and going to Church…removing the rear
seat…sitting…staring…trying 3 different keys…@(#&^#&$^%
AGAIN…, I finally removed the license plate from the boot lid.

There is a slit where the plate mounting screw penetrates and
there…yes,THERE was the ever elusive access that had been sought for
hours.

By cutting a coat hanger, bending a tight hook in one end ( to loop
around the connecting actuator rod from latch to boot handle…for lack
of the correct term…) to draw it to the slit opening for the plate
screw, I was able to insert a small screw driver to pop the quick nut
off of the connecting rod to the latch.

Taking a pair of needle nosed pliers I was then able to pull upward on
the rod…releasing the boot lid latching mechanism! ( This is where ,
if able, you would be hearing Handel’s Hallelujah Chorus…)

The boot opened…

OK…so now all you would-be theives out there have the answer to
gaining access to my golf clubs…I don’t care ! They’re insured !

( it takes more than 15 to 20 seconds any way!)

Oh …the reason it ended up locked in the first place will an ill
adjusted boot solonoid…go figure!

If doing any work on the boot solonoid…FIRST TEST IT before closing
the boot…!

Thanks to all the Jag-Lovers out there and I thought I’d pass this
solution along.

Kev

kckckc@qni.com

From: “Kevin P. Campbell” kckckc@qni.com
Date: Sun, 03 Nov 1996 15:52:02 -0800
Subject: Defroster fog

Hello Jag-Lovers,

Once again I find myself attempt to pick the brains of the Jag Experts
of our world.

I’m sitting down and may be able to handle the worst if this be the
case…

After cleaning the drain holes for the heater and a/c matrixes I find
myself with a minor amount of heater induced fog on the windscreen of
my automobile.

The problem is allieviated by turning the defroster on full tilt and
waiting but, is there a chance that I have a pin hole some where in the
heater core ?

Is there a solution to this problem?

( Under $2,000 dollars?)

Does anyone subscribe to ‘Stop Leak’?

Should the core need replacing has anyone ever been successful in doing
it themselves?

There is no smell of anti-freeze in the passenger compartment…

Well?

Suggestions would be greatly appreciated…I think!

Thanks

Kev

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sun, 03 Nov 1996 16:12:29 -0600
Subject: XJS questions about procedure

The Monster is on the road again and I am findint things that need to be
fixed. Nothing major, but things I want to fix before they become major.

The steering has lumps in it. Thats the best way I know to describe it.
I feels like there are lumps in the fluid. It will be stiff foe a while
then it gets easy. There seems te be a tendency for it to want to star
straight ahead. At first as you start to turn there is a resistance then it
suddenly gets easy to turn. Its not so much that control is a problem, but
it is noticable. Anyone have any ideas what it is other than hunks of jello
in the pump fluid.
The computer is intermitent. For a while it runs fine, then it goes nuts
and wont even display the time.
The radio display is totaly unreadable. Segments are lit, but its all a
jumble. The radio works well but I can’t tell what station it is on. I
tried pulling the front pannel and cleaning the card edge but that didnt help.
The "Starfish wheels are deteriorating in the finish. Little streaks of
gold are apearing on the rims under the silver color. What is it?
Can I do my own headliner or is it “the headliner from hell” like the E-Type?
How hard is it to replace the rear window gasket? Mine is not leaking
yet but it is all cracked and doesnt look very safe.
On the interior wod there are hairline cracks which I am assuming are in
the finish not in the veneer. How do I remove the finish?

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: armsco@primenet.com (Michael)
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 15:30:27 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Jaguar Sport

In my seemongly never ending quest for the rear panel for the XJ-S ground
effects kit, I have found referances to the XJR-S from Jaguar Sport. One
source said that all the ground effects kits were shipped to the US, when
Jaguar sold Jaguar Sport.

Does anyone out there know what and where Jaguar Sport is?

Second question. One servo motor in my power mirror controler is bad. I do
not like the idea of paying over $100 for a whole new mirror control unit.
Does anyone have a source for just the servo? They appear to be the same on
both the XJ-S and the XJ6

Michael

From: Matthew Waite MWaite@tasman.com.au
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 09:44:51 +1100
Subject: XJ6 Fuel gauge

[ Matthew Waite MWaite@tasman.com.au ]
| I have a similar problem - the gauge sits on empty for both tanks
| then sometimes moves up. This is the same for both tanks. This
| is followed by long period of inactivity.
| My car is a '73 XJ6 Series 1 which runs on LPG (Liquid Petroeum Gas)
| This is about a third the price of petrol. The car does 400 miles a week
| and returns 12-13 MPG. Gas costs about 70-80 US cents per gallon.
|
| Mat Waite Melbourne Australia
|

From: Fred Bramston fcb@nbnet.nb.ca
Date: Sun, 03 Nov 1996 20:19:43 -0800
Subject: 1970 OTS (E-Type, of course) for sale.

First off; My condolences to Gunnar. (Been there, hated every second.)

As to the '70 E-type: Details are: Complete but partially disassembled,
50K miles, needs work, but no restoration started. some extra parts,
delivery could be arranged. $8,900.00 Canadian. partial trades bravely
considered.
Call 506-357-6001 or Fax 506-385-1993. Oromocto, New Brunswick.
(That is just outside of Fredericton,N.B.)
I have copied this info from a recent vehicle trader magazine. I have no
other info. other than that which is above and I don’t rely on Photos. I
just thought it would be an interesting purchase and the price has to be
right.If I didn’t already have an on-going E-project I would buy it
myself, or at least look at it.I don’t even know if it is still
available. If anyone is interested and they call the above number (or
Fax) and you wish me to check it out. I’d be willing to take a drive up
(it’s only an hour away) to take an impartial look at it for you. (As
impartial as a Jag-lover CAN be that is) I live in a port city and
arrangements can be made for shipping most anywhere too.( I don’t know
if the present owner had that in mind). Just to clarify, I don’t know
the present owner or car and I’ll be happy to find out and share my
opinion of it if you need any such help. My Number is 506-696-2016. But
E-mail works best, as above.

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #490

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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 4 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 491

jag-lovers mail
Re: The HE designation.
xj6 ser.1: power antenna
Fwd: Re: electrical short?
Engine cc formula
Re: Jaguar Sport
Re: Is there a lawyer in the house ??
XJ-S: Manifold Pressure Sensor testing
I am new here and want to ask about XJ6
XJ6 S3 restoration
Re: xj6 ser.1: power antenna
E-type body jig part 2
Re: Engine cc formula
XJ-S and XJ6 Theft prevention.
re: (the monster lives) - coolant level check & fill
re: VIN numbers and emissions
Re: Engine cc formula
XJ-S vin number - the 10th character
RE: SIII EFI fuel pumps, general questio
E-Type 2+2 S1 1966 Driving
Re: E-Type 2+2 S1 1966 seats & belts

From: RDunlap684@aol.com
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 19:19:28 -0500
Subject: jag-lovers mail

please stop my mail from jaag-lovers reffective nov.4,1996

r.dunlap684

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 4 Nov 96 9:36:09
Subject: Re: The HE designation.

The big difference between the High Efficiency heads and the earlier variant is
that the early V12 had the combustion chamber in the piston and a flat cylinder
head; the HE has a flat piston and a “bathtub” combustion chamber in the head.
The large “squish” area between the piston and the flat part of the head
promotes strong turbulence, which mixes the charge better and allows the HE to
run a much leaner mixture. The high compression ratio (I have a 12.5:1 example)
aids both power and economy.

-Jan

From: per@quantum.ece.ucsb.edu (Per Stenius)
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 96 17:49:23 PST
Subject: xj6 ser.1: power antenna

Hi again, guys! As you can see, my postings progress as i dismantle my car
from both ends… So now I replaced the left hand tail-light ass’y, and took
out the old worn-out antenna at the same time; I thought Ser. 1 cars did not
have power antennas, so i was surprised that mine was. It was tough to get out
and I still have not figured out how I even can get out the last part, ie. the
motor that feeds the plastic wire. The cable where it runs disappears into the
body towards the center from the left taillight, and as I pull it there is
a small clunk that appears to come from where the license plate lamp roughly
is. How can one even reach in there - at least not from the boot it seems?
OK, so this is perhaps a bit weird and too uninteresting a question for most
on the list, but if someone has any comments on this i would greatly appre-
ciate it! Take care,
Per

Per Stenius (http://www.ece.ucsb.edu/SQO/Per/)
Email: per@quantum.ece.ucsb.edu

From: “Phil Patton” ppatton@ibm.net
Date: Sun, 03 Nov 96 19:58:07 -0500
Subject: Fwd: Re: electrical short?

==================BEGIN FORWARDED
MESSAGE==================

From: “Phil Patton” ppatton@ibm.net
To: “Kevin P. Campbell” kckckc@qni.com
Date: Sun, 03 Nov 96 19:48:09 -0500
Reply-To: “Phil Patton” ppatton@ibm.net
Priority: Normal
X-Mailer: Phil Patton’s Registered PMMail 1.5
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=“us-ascii”
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Subject: Re: electrical short?

On Sat, 02 Nov 1996 18:34:48 -0800, Kevin P. Campbell wrote:

Gentlemen

Any advice for a battery drainage of 0.34 amps?
The fuse that is pulled
to stop the drain is the interior light, radio
antena , clock.

Traced the lines for the drivers door and under
dash area and no luck.

Suggestions?

How long will it take 1/3 amp to drain a new
battery?

Thanks for any help.

Kevin Campbell

Kansas City

kckckc@qni.com

Kevin,
It is fairly safe to rule out the interior light
and if the clock is running OK then it probably
isn’t the problem either. I’m betting on the
aerial/antenna being the problem. I suddenly had a
problem a few months ago with my battery going
totally dead overnight at random. Turned out to be
the antenna motor was retracting the antennna, but
never turning off. In other words the antenna went
down and power continued to be applied to the
locked up motor until the battery went flat. Jag
suppliers want about $300++ for this unit. I went
to Walmart and bought one made by Harada for about
$38.00. You can remove the jack from your old
antenna, splice the wires to the new one and you
have a plug-in replacement - works exactly as the
original - even has the useless delay feature -
requires no modification to your wiring harness
and will probably outlast the $300 units.

Cheers,
Phil

===================END FORWARDED
MESSAGE===================

From: rrichardson@eurekanet.com (Robert J. Richardson)
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 21:03:17 -0500
Subject: Engine cc formula

I use the following formula for arriving at the displacement in cubic
inches of a particular engine: bore in inches squared X 0.7854 X stroke X
number of cylinders= total cubic inch displacement. For a Series 1 E-Type I
get an answer of 250 cubic inches (rounded to the nearest whole number).
But when I apply the
metric measurements using this same formula-
87 mm (bore) X 0.7854 X 19.68 (stroke) X 6-I don’t get 3800 cubic centimeters.
Can anyone clear this up for me? I got the formula out of my Jaguar Service
Manual for the 3.8 Series 1 E-Type.

From: John Goodman 101547.1141@CompuServe.COM
Date: 03 Nov 96 21:01:19 EST
Subject: Re: Jaguar Sport

In my seemongly never ending quest for the rear panel for the XJ-S
ground effects kit, I have found referances to the XJR-S from Jaguar
Sport. One source said that all the ground effects kits were shipped to
the US, when Jaguar sold Jaguar Sport.

Does anyone out there know what and where Jaguar Sport is?<<

I don’t think all the kits were exported, some time ago some UK
suppliers were selling them at favourable prices advertised in Jaguar
World. Also there are replicas available of the original Jaguar sport /
TWR kit (which is the same thing pre '91), The design changed for the
'91 XJR-S.

I’m sure they must be available over there which would be cheaper than
importing.

John Goodman

'89 XJR-S

Using Virtual Access
http://www.ashmount.com

From: fcb@nbnet.nb.ca (Fred Bramston)
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 22:14:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Is there a lawyer in the house ??

Hi all,

Long stuff here bear with me. Recap to date: My 1985 XJS experienced
severe malfunctions resulting in turning it back into the junk yard from
which it came. I still owe around $2,100 on the car and turned it back
in hoping for a voluntary repo type of thing… Thank you Frank Perrick

Hi Frank! I’m not a lawyer but…Who has the registration? and who’s name is
it in? Find out what it would take to get it back.
And Jim, what’s the word on the actual condition of the car? Were you able
to turn it over, start it or anything like that?

My present thought is that if they haven’t done any repairs you be able to
reclaim the car if it’s still in your name. You should only be risking the
back owed monthly payments if there is not a mechanics lein on the
car.That’s only my very miniscule 2 cents worth.(Canadian, which is about
1.4 cents U.S.) and is based on the little info we have and the probably not
as closely related Canadian laws.Sorry I can’t do more.Anybody else?
Good luck.

-Fred

From: Derek Hibbs Derek.Hibbs@wizardis.com.au
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 13:14:56 +1100
Subject: XJ-S: Manifold Pressure Sensor testing

G’Day again,
The continuing saga of a rich mixture on my 77 XJ-S EFI V12. The Manifold
Pressure Sensor test described in the manual only tests resistance between
terminals and between ground. Mine passed all those tests but I’m still not
convinced it’s trouble free. Now a silly question - no silly answers please.
If I create a vacuum in the sensing pipe (suck on it) should the resistances
change? If so, between what terminals should I test?

Thanks in advance
Derek Hibbs
Canberra, Australia
77 XJ-S

PS: Look at http://wizardis.com.au/~derekh for a Windows help file version
of Kirby’s XJ-S Help book

From: Fei Chun Ma m956337@umacsn1.umac.mo
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 11:22:17 +0800 (HKT)
Subject: I am new here and want to ask about XJ6

Hello!

I am new in this list, I live in Macau (very close to Hong Kong) and my

family will buy a XJ6 3.2 Diamond Jubilee Edition very soon…
If you know about that Edition of XJ6, can you send me some
information of this car? What is the different of this car when compare
to the normal XJ6?

Also, about the "jaguar" that logos in front of the car, I know

that that logo will bend its head down when a force applied on it, e.g.
an accident occurs. Is that “jaguar” a new version when compare to the
normal “golden jaguar”?

Sorry for my bad English... 
					Best Regards,
					Ma Fei Chun, Patrick.

From: tigger@dorsai.org (Stephen Keolamphu)
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 22:23:12 -0500 (EST)
Subject: XJ6 S3 restoration

I’m looking for a good restoration place in the NE US (New York City area)
that restores S3 XJ6’s (1981). I have an old girl that needs some tender
work, and I’m sentimental about her, and was wondering where to turn. It’s
been sitting for a year, and I want to try to get her back on her feet.
…
: The trouble with using experience
Stephen Keolamphu : as a guide is that the final exam
tigger@dorsai.org : often comes first, and then the
: lesson.
…

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 4 Nov 96 13:45:59
Subject: Re: xj6 ser.1: power antenna

How to remove power antenna:
Take out spare wheel.
Take out single screw on each side of the timber deck aft of where the wheel
was.
Take out screws holding the black vinyl-clad sheet metal trim inside the
threshold of the boot.
Lift out the aft part of the deck with attached cardboard (!) wheel well
portion and behold not only your power antenna but also miscellaneous fuel
gubbinses.

-Jan

From: Lee Hoover lhoover2@worldnet.att.net
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 04:01:52 +0000
Subject: E-type body jig part 2

Hi Mark,

Thanks for your suggestions. I didn’t give you the whole story though. What
I am actually planning on doing is combining two trashed E-types into one.
I have a '64 that has a good front bulkhead/transmission assembly and a ‘63’
that has a repairable rear bulkhead. My plan is to sever the two pieces
from the various rusty bits hanging on to them and then marry them together
with new floors/sills.

I figure that I need a jig of some sort to hold the front and rear bulkhead
assemblies in the correct position while I put the floors/sills in. My plan
is to make a rectangular frame with mounts for the bulkhead assemblies.
Maybe even make the thing rotate for ease of welding and painting on the
bottom of the car. I think I will incorporate some of your ideas and make
some interior braces to help assure the doors fit etc.

I live in Kansas City where I know there is an active Jaguar club. I plan on
trying to contact someone in the club and see if anyone has tried this
locally. At any rate, thanks for the ideas. If you come up with any others
be sure and let me know.

Lee

From: Doug Heinen povtybay@wolfenet.com
Date: Sun, 03 Nov 1996 20:08:31 +0930
Subject: Re: Engine cc formula

Robert J. Richardson wrote:

I use the following formula for arriving at the displacement in cubic
inches of a particular engine: bore in inches squared X 0.7854 X stroke X
number of cylinders= total cubic inch displacement.

It’s really much simpler than that, Robert. Just take the Cubic Centimer
(cc) displacement and divide by 16.387 to arrive at cubic inch (ci)
displacement. Example: 4.2 liters equals 4200cc divided by 16.387 equals
256.3 ci. A 3800cc engine = 231.89ci.

doug heinen

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sun, 03 Nov 1996 22:14:31 -0600
Subject: XJ-S and XJ6 Theft prevention.

Well, I cant believe I did it. In “The XJ6 Jaguar from Bumper to Bumper” I
noted that a good (read that “cheap”) theft prevention device on the XJ6 is
the impact switch on the right side of the dashboard. By lifting the button
it cuts off the fuel pump.

I thought all it did was cut off the fuel pump. I was wrong.

Tonight I went out for dinner. The restraunt was in a seedy area so I
decided to try the theft prevention technique. Since I was in the XJ-S and
the switch is handy to the driver (on the left side) I thought I would set
the switch. I have never done it on the XJ6 because its just not handy.

When we came out after dinner I tried to start the car and found everything
worked including the starter relay which I could hear click when I turned
the key. But the starter did not turn. The symptom was that of a failed
connection in the starter relay and of course I did not remember I had set
the impact switch. After 10 minutes of trying and on the verge of calling a
cab to come get us, my wife said, “Maybe its something to do with that thing
you were talking to Jack about this afternoon.” To which I replied, “What
are you talking about?” “You know, you were telling him about some switch
that would keep the car from starting.” she said.

A light bulb went on and I remembered I had set the switch. Sheepishly I
pressed it down and started the car.

The moral of the story? “If I ever do that again I think I will have to be
very desperate, but it DOES work.”

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Sun, 03 Nov 96 20:45:00 PST
Subject: re: (the monster lives) - coolant level check & fill

 I usually squeeze one or more of the fat radiator hoses several 
 times (with the cap off), to 'burp' the cooling system of air.  
 Burp it, top it off, repeat till done.  It's always worked, but I 
 don't have a V12.
 
 David
 XJ6 and E-type: two sixes don't make a twelve
 
 >> Add a pint, shake the car,
 >> add a pint, shake the car, add a pint etc. until no more bubbles 
 >>come up.
 
 >Actually, it's add a pint, run the engine, repeat as necessary.  
 >Yes it's
 >a pain, but that's how the book says it should be done.

From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Sun, 03 Nov 96 21:25:00 PST
Subject: re: VIN numbers and emissions

 BJ Kroppe,
 
 Yes, excellent posting from Eric regarding VINs.  I went out just 
 now to look at mine.  The 7th character position is a '3', 
 indicating (per Eric's list) plain old 4.2L 6cyl but not 
 California.  But it is a California car - I know it was originally 
 purchased in Sacramento.  Also, on the inside of the bonnet it has 
 the sticker stating that the car conforms to US and California 
 emissions standards for 1984.  I don't know if there was a 
 difference in 1984 between CA and 49-state cars.  It sounds like 
 there was no difference, and Jaguar was able to ship the same 
 configuration to all 50 states, thus it was not marked specifically 
 as a California car.  Maybe the same is true in 1982, and they 
 marked all cars as CA cars????
 
 FWIW, my car has:
    Air pump (used only during warm-up, afterwards it just vents to  
              the atmosphere so as not to confuse the O2 sensor)
    Air-injection cylinder head for use with above air pump
    Cat in downpipe
    Cat under floor at the 'Y'
    O2 and all the usual EFI hardware
 
 Best,
 
 David
 '84 XJ6 (nearly an '85, per the build numbers and some hardware)
 '70XKE (emissions and reduced HP by Stromberg)
 
 >7th Position - Engine Code
 >0=5.3l 12 cyl, Calif.
 >1=4.0l 6 cyl, Supercharged
 >2=4.2l 6 cyl, Calif.
 >3=4.2l 6 cyl
 >3=6.0l
 >5=3.6l 6 cyl low compression
 >6=3.6l 6 cyl high compression
 >7=4.0l 6 cyl
 >8=5.3l 12 cyl
 >9=4.0l 6 cyl

From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 00:38:42 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Engine cc formula

I use the following formula for arriving at the displacement in cubic
inches of a particular engine: bore in inches squared X 0.7854 X stroke X
number of cylinders= total cubic inch displacement. For a Series 1 E-Type I
get an answer of 250 cubic inches (rounded to the nearest whole number).
But when I apply the
metric measurements using this same formula-
87 mm (bore) X 0.7854 X 19.68 (stroke) X 6-I don’t get 3800 cubic centimeters.
Can anyone clear this up for me? I got the formula out of my Jaguar Service
Manual for the 3.8 Series 1 E-Type.

I have no idea what that formula is for. It cetainly isn’t a displacement
formula. You want to figure out the swept volume of a cylinder, then multiply
it by the number of cylinders. The basic formula for a cylinder is:

pi x r^2 x Length

So, for engine displacement, using normal published bore and stroke specs,
this would be:

pi x (bore/2)^2 x Stroke x cylinders = displacement.

Do note that you need to use the same units throughout. Thus, to get an
answer in cc (cubic centimeters) you need to supply bore and stroke in
centimeters. As an example, 6 cylinder with 87x100mm bore and stroke:

pi x (8.7/2)^2 x 10 x 6 = pi x 18.9225 x 10 x 6 = 3567cc

I do not have borexstroke numbers on the 3.8 engine, but I do strongly
suspect the 19.68 is incorrect, no matter what (normal) units it’s in.

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

From: “Richard.Mansell” Richard.Mansell@psemail.ps.net
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 22:55:00 +0000
Subject: XJ-S vin number - the 10th character

 Cuno said
 
 >European Jags do not have a character code for the model year in the 
 >VIN (at least this is true for my XJ-S, I suppose it is true for your 
 >Series III too). The only way I was able to determine the year my 
 >XJ-S was built was to look for a book that told me when what serial 
 >number (in the VIN) was built. The 10th character in the XJ-S VIN 
 >stands for H.E. or non H.E. V12.
 
 OK I was bored....my anorak is being dry cleaned so I can't go out.
 
 From May 1978 the 10th character for XJ-S's translates as:-
 
 A  XJ-S original spec
 B  HE Coupe
 C  AJ-6 Coupe and convertible
 D  V12 Convertible
 E  Facelift (1992-)
 
 In the USA, Canada and Korea, from 1981, the 10th letter denotes year 
 of build B=1981.
 
 Richard
 
 richard.mansell@ps.net
 1989 XJ-S 5.3 (slightly bent and missing door)
 1996 Fiat Chinquecento (going soon, PLEASE!)

From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 09:37 +0100
Subject: RE: SIII EFI fuel pumps, general questio

Hello everyone,
I had the same idea myself when overhauling the immersed petrol pump of my=20
E-type. When filling up the tank I made sure to wait a few days before=20
powering the pump to allow the mixture inside the pump to be enriched beyond=20=

explosion level. There was an anti-deflagration screen mounted inside the=20
pump and the name of that part in the manual made me even more suspicious.
Frans. (hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch)

With the pump pieces in my hand, I made a startling (to me) observation:
fuel is constantly circulating through the motor itself. Here is a
permanent magnet motor, with an armature and brushes, operating in a
flammable environment. Every PM motor I ever saw had some slight
sparking from the brushes during normal operation. I can understand
that when the pump is full of fuel, there is no air to support combustion,
but what happens when youve just run your tank empty, and the pump is
also sucking in air? Will you suddenly be driving a fenderless roadster?

Any comments?
Brian Sherwood (bsherw@aol.com)

=20

From: Stephan Perthes 100277.1037@CompuServe.COM
Date: 04 Nov 96 05:20:00 EST
Subject: E-Type 2+2 S1 1966 Driving

Dennis:

Would you be so kind as to tell me your driving
impressions of the 2+2 as compared to a modern car such
as a Saturn/Accord/etc.

Short answer: Do not compare (especially not with cars as
mentioned), just buy & drive & feel & dream …(but keep your
eyes on the road !!)

Long answer: I better leave this out. I don’t want to have
a 500 KB mailing-list (and I guess nobody else ;-))
Of course everybody who ever drove an E-Type (and is not
120% fixed on limousines) will just love 'em. IMHO it’s
the “sexiest” car ever built. It’s the best looking sports
car ever built (Yes, all you OTS/FHC purists: Even my 2 + 2 !!)

More earnest: I used mine as everyday car from autumn '95 to
April '96 (then I started restoration). I even drove
some days in winter, got into heavy snow (That’s true!)
and made it home without winter tires. Sliding is fun, isn’t it?
(But I had several drivers trainings, continuing, by a very-well-
known german car manufacturer - I’m sure you know those cars
with a silver star on wheels & bonnet ! ?).

Noise: A 1966 E-Type 4.2 litres 3xSUHD8 is definitely
“louder” than an 1996 Ford, Honda, whatever. 30 years
of car construction make a difference … I love the noise.
If you can’t stand some noise: What about a Rolls Royce,
instead of an E-Type ?

Summer: In summer my E-Type is HOT’n LOUD => great stuff.
It’s a matter of feeling, or “What do you want from life?”
If you prefer nice’n cool: Better think about a Margerita …

My resto’s goal shall be “100% daily usability”.
I used the 2+2 for driving my kids (!) to Kindergarten.
I used the 2+2 for driving Darmstadt-Stuttgart-Darmstadt
(= abt. 380 kms / 250 mls), not using the Fast Highway,
but only smaller streets. It was just great.
I used the 2+2 for home-office-home, for weeks, every day.

I would only be careful during winter time (snow, salt, dirt)
and in rainy days, because just no cat likes water
(I know, because we have a “real” cat as well).

Does this answer your question a bit ? ;-))

Stephan Perthes (stopped considering Aug '95)
100277.1037@compuserve.com
E-Type 2+2 S1 1966 3xSUHD8 LHD.

Do you like E-Types ?

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Perthes/EType.htm

From: Stephan Perthes 100277.1037@CompuServe.COM
Date: 04 Nov 96 05:19:55 EST
Subject: Re: E-Type 2+2 S1 1966 seats & belts

Michael:

Thanks for your kind offer.

The old ones are sitting in my attic. They are complete except for the hinges and runners, with
headrests, but the leather is dry and cracked. Any price proposal price for your
seats w/rests “as is” ?

These were not stock seats in 1966, as far as I know, but the
headrests are definitely a safety consideration.
You’re right. But a little bit more safety is what I’m looking for.
Also they calm down my wife a bit …
Maybe the headrests are to “short” ?? (I’m 185 cms tall -
abt. 73" ?), but “something” is better than “nothing”.

The seat belts in the '66 car would not have had automatic retractors
or inertial stops.

Right again, but as there were automatic belts in my car as
I bought it - better to say as I went to German TUE for getting
a new license plate (“TUE” is a federal institution checking
every car at least every 2 years for safety of steering, brakes,
lights etc.), I just have to have the same belts or I loose
my license plate => the permission to drive the car.

I could have “red numbers” instead of the regular “black numbers”,
but I’m not allowed to drive with the red plate daily.

And I got a “black plate” finally with “DA-ET 221” which means
“The one-and-only DArmstadt (city) E-Type 2+2 Series 1”

So please just offer what you think will fit into my '66.
As I am doing a 90 % restoration, I will have to do all
seat covers etc. as well anyway. I will look around in the
Web 'cause I got other tips for my questions - thanks to
Jag-lovers all around the world … !

Stephan Perthes
100277.1037@compuserve.com
E-Type 2+2 S1 1966 3xSUHD8 LHD.

Do you like E-Types ?

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Perthes/EType.htm

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #491

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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 4 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 492

Youe ‘E’ type
Re: Defroster fog
Re: Engine cc formula
XJ6 sIII starting problems
Re: Killer switch.
Snow Sneakers for XJ 6 SIII
Re: Snow Sneakers for XJ 6 SIII
Re: Another dead cat.
Re: Trunion Bearings?
rE: u jOINTS…
dealing with insurance companies
electrical ghosts
Wiring Diagrams
(Fwd) Re: Split the List? - A Suggestion
XJ-S Tires
OTS?
XJS Fuel Smell
Re: Book Values?
Rear Brakes on 88 XJ-S & Thanks
Re: XJS Fuel Smell
Re: OTS?
Re: E-type body jig/sill stiffener
SIII XJ12 Fuel smells

From: Stephan Perthes 100277.1037@CompuServe.COM
Date: 04 Nov 96 05:20:06 EST
Subject: Youe ‘E’ type

Marrio:

… yours looks superb, tell me was it totally rust free.

“Looks superb” before or after the new painting ? ;-))

Yes, it WAS 99 % rust free. The cat came back from CA in summer 1995.

I had several comments from Jag people which really KNOW
about Jags (I just started a year ago) all saying “This
is one of the best (30 year old) E-Types I’ve ever seen.”
So I think I was just lucky. But I am restoring (not myself:
no time no tools no place, but I have Jag friends now)
the whole cat because it’s just worn out after 30 years.
Have a look at my http (below); I’ll have more pictures
from time to time.
The brakes will be restored 100 % - no less. Steering
is o.k. Motor had an overhaul in U.K. (including repair
of “inside where the cylinders are ruinning up and down”
(don’t know the English word ;-)) Seats, well, you can
sit on 'em, but the leather is pretty much down the drain.
Changed also from 5" to 6" wheels (205/70 VR 15) because
the bigger tires are just running & looking much better
than the small ones. The Original would have 185 tires
(German/European tire size).

Would you be willing to tell me the price you paid for it…

Yes, no problem (Please have a seat first …):
I paid DM 41,500.00 … abt. US$ 27,700.00 … !!
This is Germany. And the car came back by ship from NY.
And there were two people “in between” making some money.
I KNEW of all, and I just WANTED THIS CAR. That’s JagLove, isn’t it.
This price included all technical repair & changes needed
for getting a new German license plate: new headlights, brake
repairs, all new fluids, all new rubbers (doors, windows),
four new tires (I paid for the wheels), electric theft
protection, new Nardi steering wheel (but I’ll change
back to the original one), and a few other items.
And if you’ve ever tried (well, I guess not) to get a NEW GERMAN
BLACK NUMBER license plate for a 30 year old car coming back
from USA, you’ll know what I’m talking about …

The one I’m looking at has 50 000 miles, new interior, no rust but a small dent
in the bonnet and he’s asking $7000.

I’d say: Forget about the dent in the bonnet (at least for a start).
Drive the car for half an hour, but don’t forget to stop by your
bank to get the money rightaway.

Mine had abt. 48,000 miles, and my friends and I think this is
true because the car didn’t run for abt. 5 years while in USA,
and it really didn’t look like “148,000” or “248,000” miles.

Stephan Perthes
100277.1037@compuserve.com
E-Type 2+2 S1 1966 3xSUHD8 LHD.

Do you like E-Types ?

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Perthes/EType.htm

From: Paul Peard 100025.1253@CompuServe.COM
Date: 04 Nov 96 06:57:30 EST
Subject: Re: Defroster fog

Kevin wrote
< I find myself with a minor amount of heater induced fog on the windscreen of
my automobile.>

If its coolant, it should taste “sweet” apparently. Its possible that you just
have some residual water hanging around from the blocked a/c drains.

Not that it helps you at all, but I had the heater core replaced in my XJ-S last
year, it cost 200 GBP, the guy had the car for a day or so, it seemed like money
well spent seeing as the core itself was about 120GBP of the cost.

Good luck
Paul

From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 06:27:55 -0600
Subject: Re: Engine cc formula

From: Robert J. Richardson rrichardson@eurekanet.com
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Engine cc formula
Date: Sunday, November 03, 1996 8:03 PM

I use the following formula for arriving at the displacement in cubic
inches of a particular engine: bore in inches squared X 0.7854 X stroke X
number of cylinders= total cubic inch displacement. For a Series 1 E-Type
I
get an answer of 250 cubic inches (rounded to the nearest whole number).
But when I apply the
metric measurements using this same formula-
87 mm (bore) X 0.7854 X 19.68 (stroke) X 6-I don’t get 3800 cubic
centimeters.
Can anyone clear this up for me? I got the formula out of my Jaguar
Service
Manual for the 3.8 Series 1 E-Type.

You have the right formula, but aren’t using it correctly. The first thing
in the equation is the “bore in inches squared” this means that the bore is
multiplied times the bore.

the formula simplified:

(bore) x (bore) x (number of cyls) x (stroke) x (.7854)

This formula will yield engine displacement. Be sure not to mix units. If
you want cubic centimeters then use metric units throughout the equation.
The same applies for english measure. If you have the right tools, such as
a bore gauge and a bore depth gauge you can determine the displacement of
any reciprocating engine.

Tim Blystone
pcsolutions@mindspring.com

From: bsawyer@mint.net (Bruce Sawyer)
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 07:37:17 -0500
Subject: XJ6 sIII starting problems

Every few times I try to start the Jag the starter motor doesn’t kick in or
the starter relay. It appears that all the other correct things are
happening (fuel pump, etc). It acts like the park switch in the
transmission is not functioning. However, play with the key enough and off
it goes. Has anyone had this problem? Any ideas? Could it be the key
switch? Thanks for any help you can give.

From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 13:11:58 -0800
Subject: Re: Killer switch.

Dieter Hachenberg asks:

Inside my glove compartment of my Series 3 Sovereign there is a swith
that seems cause the car to die in one position. What is this for? Do all
XJ6’s have these?

Some people (I’m one of them) fit a mains cut-off switch in their cars. (My
insurance company made me:) Although I fitted to a custom made bracket mounted
between the right hand side inner wing and the bonnet latch mechanism bracket,
others fit it inside the car for easier operation (makes sense too!)

Could it be one of the latter’s handywork you’ve found??

TTFN
Bard

______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no

From: bsawyer@mint.net (Bruce Sawyer)
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 07:42:39 -0500
Subject: Snow Sneakers for XJ 6 SIII

I plan on driving my Jag during the winter in Maine. I wonder if anyone has
had either good luck or bad with any brand of snow tire with studs. If so
would you share your experience with me. Thanks.

From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 13:54:01 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: Snow Sneakers for XJ 6 SIII

On Mon, 4 Nov 1996, Bruce Sawyer wrote:

I plan on driving my Jag during the winter in Maine. I wonder if anyone has
had either good luck or bad with any brand of snow tire with studs. If so
would you share your experience with me. Thanks.

I use a set of Michelins, can’t remember the type tho. Have run
the series 1 (The Beast) on them the last two winter, but will
put them on the s3 sometime this week.

Two things to consider:

If you run 205’s in the summer you should go down to 185 for
snowtires. Better grip etc. 205’s really are too wide for snow use.

You will probably have more joy running studless snow-tyres. Much
less noise, much less pollution (from your grinding up the road)
and very little difference in use, apart from on wet ice.

Either which way, the XJ6 is an excellent car for winter use.
Very nicely balanced and controllable, from my experience with
the series 1. The series 3 has the advantage of a heater that works…

Nick

From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 14:01:03 -0800
Subject: Re: Another dead cat.

Hi guys,

With all due respect for my fellow countryman, I dear say that Gunnar is out on
a limb when he claims that >although the XJ6 has a race-bred engine and
suspension it is not a sports car.

If your cat’s paws are equipped with tyres that cannot handle a curve (almost
any curve) at 80km/h that cat should not be on the road in the first place. I
submit that not even the fittest of sports cars keeps its handling capabilities
on any old tyre. Let’s just hope the insurance company remains oblivious to the
state/make of the tyres.

Sincerely,
Bard

______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no

From: theo bremner tbremner@lynx.dac.neu.edu
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 08:08:45 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Trunion Bearings?

Hello,

Maybe someone can help me out on this one.... IN the clove box

of my 85 SOV SIII I found a slip form a Jag mechanic that said Trunion
Bearings were getting sloppy… I know they are some where in the rear
suspension but where and how do I check them there seems to be no noise
when driving from them… I’m wonderring if the mechanic was trying to
make some fast cash on the preious owner by doing repairs he didn’t need
or what…

Thanks for any input,

Theo

From: theo bremner tbremner@lynx.dac.neu.edu
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 08:13:06 -0500 (EST)
Subject: rE: u jOINTS…

Another question for the group…

How do I diagnose bad U joints in the drive axle and if they are

bad how are they to replace myself? I get a slight almost clunk when
putting the car in gear from a stand still it happens in reverse or
drive but only when I’m standing still initially… I would guess this
is when the drive shaft would see the most instantaneous torque…
Any input would be appreciated…
Thanks,
Theo
85 SOV SIII

From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 08:58:05 -0500
Subject: dealing with insurance companies

I thought I would pass along some pleasant news to the list, and point out
the value of keeping good restoration records.
Recently I had a 1987 XJS Convertible (Hess& Eisenhardt) which was totally
destroyed. Luckily my insurance covered the loss, however they initially
offered me NADA book value of only $11,500. Having spent close to that
amount on restoration parts needless to say I was a bit dissapointed. I
decided to wage a small campaign to get what I considered a fairer value for
the car.
With surprisingly little fuss, the insurance company wound up paying me
$18,300 for the car. The three very critical documents allowing them to do
so were:

extensively well kept records of all work done to the car, and
information on market prices for this model car rather than NADA book
values. There was a big difference here. I got the info. from Autotrader’s
web site.
“expert” appraisals. Went to my friendly Jag restorer and coaxed him into
writing a non-binding estimate of market value for the car.

I was surprised at how little resistance the insurance people gave once they
had the right little pieces of paper in front of them.

Just thought you might be interested
Julian Mullaney

From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 09:15:09 -0500
Subject: electrical ghosts

I was quite relieved yesterday when my new 1991 XJS finally showed a slight
glimmer of an electrical ailment ( Luc - emia perhaps…). A car with
absolutely no problems can be a bit boring.
Problem:
When going around a corner fast, the front map reading lights come on, then
extinguish with the normal timing cut-off. Any ideas???
I know it’s a trivial problem, but it’s the best I can come up with.
Julian Mullaney

From: “Bart G. Denys” AllPorsche@cajunnet.com
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 1996 08:22:32 -0600
Subject: Wiring Diagrams

Friends,

I’d like to find a color printed wire diagram for my '86 XJ6 VDP. The
jaglist technical pages suggest that they were printed by Jaguar of
North America. I left an email to our “technical chairman” but never got
a reply. Anybody has any ideas ?

Thanks,

Bart

From: “Peter Morris” pmorris@tfb.com
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 06:38:50 8
Subject: (Fwd) Re: Split the List? - A Suggestion

Forwarded message:
From: Self
To: Shane Gibson shane_gibson@qsp.co.nz
Subject: Re: Split the List? - A Suggestion
Reply-to: pmorris@tfb.com
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 1996 11:23:48 8

Howdy,

Another voice, crying out in the…oops, wrong list.

Hey, as an midtimer (1 1/2 yrs on the list) I would hate to see the
list split. Yeah, there is a lot of useless (to me) information, but
sometimes there’s a nugget (to me) in there.

On 31 Oct 96 at 17:09, Shane Gibson wrote:

My suggestion is this, why don’t we use some form of keywords as the
first 4 (or whatever) digits of the subject. i.e.

XJS
XJ6
MK2
GEN

As all of the old- and mid-timers know, this is also a regular plea.
As a student of human behavior, I’d simply point out that constant
reminder is the ONLY way we humans maintain consistency, so it’s
normal (if rather annoying to some) that people forget or (heaven
forbid) deliberately refuse to follow the simple protocol of
indicating the model and year of the car referred to in a question.
So, if it’s normal, let’s just periodically remind ourselves, and
move on. No flames, no comments, just a reminder.

Thanks for listening…
Regards,

Peter Morris

From: Steve Draper s_draper@wcsr.com
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 09:38:37 -0500
Subject: XJ-S Tires

Often people discuss the merits of good tires. After driving an Isuzu
Trooper II for years (which was a fantastic woods vehicle) I enjoy
screaming around corners in the XJ-S. I dare say I do not have
performance tires on the car. Since a change is coming, would you
suggest what would be a good replacement for excellent handling?
Thanks.

–Steve
'88 xj-s
'89 xj40vdp
e-mail at:
s_draper@wcsr.com

From: digs@gradymccauley.com (Digital Imaging)
Date: 04 Nov 1996 14:34:47 GMT
Subject: OTS?

New to list.
Please indulge dumb question…
What does OTS stand for?
Phil, 1962 E-type roadster

From: “Sang Oh” sango@ecg.csg.mot.com
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 08:44:11 -0600
Subject: XJS Fuel Smell

I need a help with my XJS.

I have 89 XJS with over 100,000 miles on it. I just replaced all shocks and
rack bushings past week. I haven’t had any major problems past 10,000 miles
with engine. I was driving on Saturday with windows up, it is getting cold in
Chicago. I started smelling gasoline in the car while I was driving. I
thought it was coming from the car ahead of me. After while there was no car
front of me and gasoline smell didn’t go away. Fairly strong gasoline odor was
getting unbearable.

I came home and park the car in the garage. I smelled fuel odor inside and
outside of the car.

I never smelled this before in my car. And it is very annoying when driving
with windows up and heater on.

Any XJS owner with same kind of problem or experience on how to go about fixing
it?
What should I look for?

thanks in advance.

–Sang

Sang Oh

Motorola
Cordless Product
Cellular Subscriber Group
1900 W. Winchester Road
Libertyville, IL 60048
Phone:(708) 523-4725
Fax:(708) 523-2499
E-mail: sango@ecg.csg.mot.com

From: theo bremner tbremner@lynx.dac.neu.edu
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 10:54:14 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Book Values?

Can anyone give me a web site where I can check the Book Value

of my Jag. Haven’t had the time to find one yet…
Thanks
Theo
85 Sov SIII

From: “Himes,John W.” jwh@mime.dw.lucent.com
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 96 08:58:00 PST
Subject: Rear Brakes on 88 XJ-S & Thanks

Thanks to Aaron Burnett for replying to my message about my leaking rear
brake on my XJ-S. He was correct in that the problem was that the seals &
dust covers needed to be replaced. He also warned me that the Haynes manual
was WRONG on some parts. Well Aaron, so is the Jaguar 4 volume repair
manual & the 1 volume Repair manual with the HE supplement, They are wrong
on how the calipers mount. Both manuals tell you to break the wire and
remove the bolts that are shown on the outside of the calipers. There is no
wire & the bolts are on the inside of the calipers. You must move the wheel
to align a hold in the rotor to remove / replace these 2 bolts.
( Again, thanks Aaron for the tip )

Removing & replacing the emergency brakes are not very fun to do either. An
access panel under the rear seats would be nice. At least my Jag is back on
the road again.

I do understand one persons recommendation to just drop the entire rear end
as working on this “on the bench” instead of underneath the car would be
much easier, just a lot more up front work. Maybe next summer if I decide
to replace the rotors & all the rubber when I need new brakes again.

John Himes
88 XJ-S 98K Miles

From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 11:10:40 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJS Fuel Smell

I have 89 XJS with over 100,000 miles on it. I just replaced all shocks and
rack bushings past week. I haven’t had any major problems past 10,000 miles
with engine. I was driving on Saturday with windows up, it is getting cold in
Chicago. I started smelling gasoline in the car while I was driving. I
thought it was coming from the car ahead of me. After while there was no car
front of me and gasoline smell didn’t go away. Fairly strong gasoline odor was
getting unbearable.

First establish whether it is the trunk (boot) or engine compartment.
Yours sounds like under the hood (bonnet).
Take a look under the hood at the fuel rails. Leaking connnections
there is a common problem on that vehicle. In-the-trunk leaks are
also common. Open your trunk and stick your head in. You will know
whether is coming from there. If it is not in the trunk, and not the fuel
rails, it could be the vapour recovery system. The charcoal canister
is in the left front fender, just ahead of the tire.

Thomas E. Alberts

From: “Lee Walden” lwalden@ebmud.com
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 08:22:22 -0800
Subject: Re: OTS?

Phil, ther are no dumb questions, only dumb answers like these ;>

Optional Tire Stand
Old Tires Skid
Other Than Stock
Original Type Specification
Open To Speculation
Only Two Seats
Original Transmission Sucks
One Tired System
Open Two Seater
Optional Tuned Suspension
One To See
etc…

From: Digital Imaging digs@gradymccauley.com
To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: OTS?
Date: Monday, November 04, 1996 6:34 AM

New to list.
Please indulge dumb question…
What does OTS stand for?
Phil, 1962 E-type roadster

From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 11:51:17 -0500
Subject: Re: E-type body jig/sill stiffener

On Nov 4, 4:01am, Lee Hoover wrote:

Subject: E-type body jig part 2
Hi Mark,

Thanks for your suggestions. I didn’t give you the whole story though. What
I am actually planning on doing is combining two trashed E-types into one.
I have a '64 that has a good front bulkhead/transmission assembly and a ‘63’
that has a repairable rear bulkhead. My plan is to sever the two pieces
from the various rusty bits hanging on to them and then marry them together
with new floors/sills.

I figure that I need a jig of some sort to hold the front and rear bulkhead
assemblies in the correct position while I put the floors/sills in.

Wow, that’s ambitious. I have noticed that there are some companies in
England that rent out jigs for E-types, but that doesn’t help you much:-(. You
might try John Farrel, he may have a jig, or if not he could help you with
ideas on how to build one. He is on the supplier posting.
I have a suggestion, and this is to anyone doing an OTS. There is a sill
stiffener available from Vicarage that can be installed when the sills are
being replaced. It goes inside the sill, and I understand that it helps
increase rigidity in the open top cars. They are not too expensive and I wish I
had known about them before I welded up the sills on my ots - too late for me
now. Anthony Parkinson could have sold me a set for my fathers coupe, but he
said that they were not necessary on the coupe because the roof stiffens the
car enough anyway. He could have made a couple bucks, but he was honest
instead. Seems a good idea for the OTS if you are reduing the sills
anyway.

Mark McChesney
'65 E-type ots

From: brownd@filon.ml.com (Dave Brown - London Dev X1818)
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 96 17:28:45 GMT
Subject: SIII XJ12 Fuel smells

Hi,
I have vague recollections of this being discussed recently, but I can’t find
any reference in my archives. Whilst driving at the weekend having just filled
both tanks, the rear passengers (and then the driver) noticed a growing smell of
petrol. By the end of the journey it was very strong, openning the windows
didn’t help that much. Recommencing the journey after lunch the smell had
disappeared and didn’t come back.

I’m going to do some experimentation with full/different tanks, but can anyone
give any hints as to where to start looking. There are no obvious signs of leaks
and I’m sure I the tanks weren’t over-filled. My guess is the breather system
somehere, but how to check?

TIA,
David

David Brown, Merrill Lynch
brownd@ml.com
///_/_/_/_/////_///______
/_/_//_/_/_/_/_/____
/_/_/_/_/______/_/_/_/______
/_/_/_/_/_/_/________/_/_____
___/_/_/////_/_/_/_/_/______
/_/___/_/_//_/_/_/____
///_/_/_/____/////_///_________

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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 5 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 493

Re: Book Values?
Question on Us VIN #'s
Re: Book Values? -Reply
Re: Book Values?
Re: OTS?
Re: E-Type and Int.
Re: XJ6 sIII starting problems
Re: OTS?
E-type rotary jig
New XJ6 Owner!!!
[Request for UK readers] Anyone know of David Cox?
A Transmission Question
Re: OTS?
Lindner/Nocker
Splitting the list
Re: E-Type and Int.
XJ-S Starting Problem
recommendation
XJ6 - Heater Problems
Re: XJ-S Starting Problem
A Transmission Question
Protective Door Side Mouldings
Re: electrical short?
Jag-Lovers

From: Doug Heinen povtybay@wolfenet.com
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 1996 09:36:04 +0930
Subject: Re: Book Values?

theo bremner wrote:

    Can anyone give me a web site where I can check the Book Value
of my Jag. Haven’t had the time to find one yet…

Theo;

Try Edmunds at:

http://www.edmunds.com/edweb/used/usedcars.html

doug heinen

From: “Himes,John W.” jwh@mime.dw.lucent.com
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 96 10:47:00 PST
Subject: Question on Us VIN #'s

Thanks to the person that posted the chart on how to dissect the US vin #
for Jags. I have one question. On the 12-17 positions for the sequence # (
example, mine is 140821 ), does that mean that I have the 140,821 XJS made,
or the 140,821 Jaguar made that year, or the 140,821 Jaguar ever made ? I
think it would be the sequence number of the particular model, but then if I
really knew, I would not be asking…

John Himes
88 XJ-S 98K Miles

From: Steve Draper s_draper@wcsr.com
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 13:17:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Book Values? -Reply

Can anyone give me a web site where I can check the Book Value of
my Jag.

Try http://www.edmunds.com. They’ve got jag stuff.

–Steve
'88 xj-s
'89 xj40vdp
e-mail at:
s_draper@wcsr.com

From: Michael Powers/TEIR/Thomson Michael_Powers@teir.com
Date: 4 Nov 96 13:49:48
Subject: Re: Book Values?

Check out:
Kelly’s Blue book site

or
Auto Trader Online
http://www.traderonline.com/

Both are good sources for pricing information.

Rgds,
Mike

tbremner @ lynx.dac.neu.edu (theo bremner)

11/04/96 10:54 AM
To: jag-lovers @ sn.no @ Internet
cc:
Subject: Re: Book Values?

Can anyone give me a web site where I can check the Book Value
of my Jag. Haven’t had the time to find one yet…
Thanks
Theo
85 Sov SIII

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 14:03:05 -0600
Subject: Re: OTS?

 OTS = Open Two Seater  (see, you don't actually own a roadster.)
       -    -   -
 
 MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: OTS?
Author: digs@gradymccauley.com at Internet
Date: 11/4/1996 2:34 PM

New to list.
Please indulge dumb question…
What does OTS stand for?
Phil, 1962 E-type roadster

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 14:33:29 -0600
Subject: Re: E-Type and Int.

 Don't overlook the fact that Jaguar also would do other paint and 
 interior combinations on special order.
 
 In fact, they still will.  I recently asked the local dealer about 
 special paint on an XK-8 convertible.  The answer was yes, $4,000 US 
 but the factory won't accept special paint requests until after the 
 first of the year.  (Probably have their hands full building standard 
 combinations.)
 
 MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: E-Type and Int.
Author: hastings@frodo.eucom.mil (Craig R. Hastings) at Internet
Date: 10/30/1996 3:46 PM

However the books I have (Porter, Haddock, Harvey) have conflicting info. on
which exterior colors went with the Lt. Tan int.

Craig Hastings
88 VDP
61 OTS

From: tsa@mso.anu.edu.au (Tim Axelrod)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 06:55:33 +1100
Subject: Re: XJ6 sIII starting problems

Bruce Sawyer says:

Every few times I try to start the Jag the starter motor doesn’t kick in or
the starter relay.

It could be a lot of things! In my case it turned out to be three things,
which I of course discovered sequentially:

Loose connection at the starter relay
Loose connection at the starter
Electrical damage inside the starter, possibly from the loose
connections. This caused the starter to occasionally do nothing
once the engine was warm.

After fixing those, rate of ‘no response to key’ went from about 10%
to ZERO!

Tim Axelrod
Canberra, Australia
tsa@mso.anu.edu.au

81 XJ-6 SIII

From: “E Parkhurst” ddbird@c2i2.com
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 12:58:55 -0700
Subject: Re: OTS?

The Jag books I have indicate “Open Two Seater” for the roadsters.

From: Lee Walden lwalden@ebmud.com
To: digs@gradymccauley.com; jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: Re: OTS?
Date: Monday, November 04, 1996 9:22 AM

Phil, ther are no dumb questions, only dumb answers like these ;>

Optional Tire Stand
Old Tires Skid
Other Than Stock
Original Type Specification
Open To Speculation
Only Two Seats
Original Transmission Sucks
One Tired System
Open Two Seater
Optional Tuned Suspension
One To See
etc…

From: Digital Imaging digs@gradymccauley.com
To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: OTS?
Date: Monday, November 04, 1996 6:34 AM

New to list.
Please indulge dumb question…
What does OTS stand for?
Phil, 1962 E-type roadster

From: Steve_Kemp_at_NBD@pcmail.tellabs.com
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 96 12:29:57 CST
Subject: E-type rotary jig

 Somewhat in keeping with Lee Hoover's request for an E-type jig, I 
 happen to know of a fellow that will let one go for relatively cheap. 
 It was used to restore a Series 1 1/2 coupe, but would also work for 
 an OTS. I doubt it would work for Lee though, as it couldn't be used 
 to align a separate front half with another back half. It will hold 
 the car together straight enough to replace the sills, as it was used 
 for this. It's on wheels and rotates 360 degrees. It would have to 
 shipped from Florida (not included in price).
 
 The owner stated that they will entertain all reasonable offers. Any 
 interested parties can respond to me, as the owner isn't on line.
 
 Steve Kemp
 skemp@tellabs.com
 62 OTS under reconstruction

From: Robert Paullin 103442.3223@CompuServe.COM
Date: 04 Nov 96 15:16:21 EST
Subject: New XJ6 Owner!!!

Hello to all! I am new to the list and am looking forward to learning a lot
about my all time favorite car! I recently purchased, with my fathers help, my
very first Jaguar. It is a 1987 XJ6 Series 3. I love my darling “Xavier” so
very much! This is the only type of car I will ever own from here on. So far,
we are replacing the rear brakes, and exhaust. The mechanic we are working with
has informed us that the front suspension is completely shot – not even road
safe! This is OK, I still love my car!!! Either way my father has been toying
with the idea of replacing the ball joints and the bushings himself. Does
anyone know how much of a project would this be? I would like to be driving it
in the near future and my father is a VERY busy man… Our mechanic tells us of
the $1,300 required to fix it, $900 is labor. Also, can local garages work on
a Jaguar’s exhaust system for future refrence? I am 21 with a Jaguar – Life is
great!

Thanks for any input

Laura Paullin

From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 1996 21:19:32 +0100
Subject: [Request for UK readers] Anyone know of David Cox?

A request for members in the UK:

Does anyone know of a David Cox in the UK (probably) in
some way connected to the Jaguar community? Any help in
locating said person graciously appreciated.

Nick

<<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>>
<<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>>

The JagWeb http://www.sn.no/~nick/jaguar.html <<<

From: “Martin Leung” martin_leung@qmail2.aero.org
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 13:49:33 -0800
Subject: A Transmission Question

                                                                12:47 PM

OFFICE MEMO Time:
Subject:
A Transmission Question 7/5/96
Date:

Just about a year ago, I purchased a 88’ Vanden Plas with 150K miles. It is
in excellent conditions. I love the way it looks and drives. Recently, the
automatic transmission started to shift erratically. Riding at a constant
speed on the freeway (70 mph @ 2000 rpm), the car jerks occasionally like it
downshifts for split second and then shifts back up again. It also does the
same thing at acceleration or decceleration. Otherwise, it rides like dream.
The Jaguar independent who works on it did a transmission service, i.e. fluid
and filter change. He didn’t find metal particles or other distressing signs.
But it is still shifting erratically. Please enlighten me, since I know very
little about Jags.
By the way, this forum is a great service to a novice like me.

From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 16:58:16 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: OTS?

Phil:

Open Two Seater. Strictly speaking, there are no E-Type roadsters.

Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2

At 02:34 PM 11/4/96 GMT, you wrote:

New to list.
Please indulge dumb question…
What does OTS stand for?
Phil, 1962 E-type roadster

From: Jon Richings jon@aesthetica.com
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 1996 21:55:12 +0000
Subject: Lindner/Nocker

Anyone know of any good resources, books, websites, whatever, with info and
pictures of the Lindner/Nocker Lightweight ?. Or anyone on the list who
knows a little about it’s history ? I’m considering, just considering mind
you, building a replica.

TIA

Jon

From: MDavid1566@aol.com
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 17:12:30 -0500
Subject: Splitting the list

Well, first of all, I am newby to the list and my opinion may have little
value. But I greatly enjoy the list, and the discussions on ALL topics.
Obviously, there will come a time when I will be less interested in some; I
am perfectly capable of deleting these messages myself, however.

I do think it would help if certain frequently-recurring or discussed
threads were translated into FAQs which could be downloaded from the
archives. Then, when some newby asks a question, he could be referred to the
FAQ, rather than getting a annoyed response because, unbeknownst to him, the
question has been dealt with many times before.

I am probably not the best person to do it, but I would be glad to help in an
effort to compile such FAQs from the prior archives. It would be a slight
contribution to repay the knowledge gained from the list! Let me know if I
can be of help.

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 17:55:33 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: E-Type and Int.

My dealer said the cost was $3000 and no problem taking the order now,
just a three month wait to get the car.

John

On Mon, 4 Nov 1996, Mike Cogswell wrote:

 In fact, they still will.  I recently asked the local dealer about 
 special paint on an XK-8 convertible.  The answer was yes, $4,000 US 
 but the factory won't accept special paint requests until after the 
 first of the year.  (Probably have their hands full building standard 
 combinations.)
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: E-Type and Int.
Author: hastings@frodo.eucom.mil (Craig R. Hastings) at Internet
Date: 10/30/1996 3:46 PM

However the books I have (Porter, Haddock, Harvey) have conflicting info. on
which exterior colors went with the Lt. Tan int.

Craig Hastings
88 VDP
61 OTS

From: John Nuttall jnuttall@julian.uwo.ca
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 1996 18:47:18 -0800
Subject: XJ-S Starting Problem

Recently I met an interesting fellow by the name of Paul. He lives
in rural Southern Ontario, Canada, and, with others, is involved in
farming as wll as operating a used car lot. He likes Jags and has had a
1981 XJ-S for the last three years. He likes the car but does not appear
to know much about its mechanisms. He says the car runs well apart from
one problem, which Paul would very much like to cure. He does not have
access to the Internet.

When the engine is cold it is difficult to start the car, especially at
lower temperatures. I watched him try to start it when it was about 15
degrees C. On turning the ignition key the engine would run for a second
or two and then die. This happened about half a dozen times and then the
engine on the next attempt it did not die but ran very slowly for perhaps
ten seconds, after which it speeded up and ran normally from then on. The
car starts without difficulty if the engine is warm.

Can anyone suggest a possible cause of this behaviour that Paul can look
into? The car was built in Dec. 1980. It has the fuel rail with
rectangular cross section. I am not sure which ignition system it has.

I will pass on any suggestions to Paul and let you know what happens. It
might be a while before Paul can investigate because he is busy with the
harvest at present.

John Nuttall

jnuttall@julian.uwo.ca

1977 XJ-S
1979 XJ-S for parts

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 00:14:57 +0100 (MET)
Subject: recommendation

I do order most my spare parts through mail order and have been more or less
satisfied. In general there is always something missing or wrong.

I need to replace the A/C hoses on my XJ-S and the compressor started to
make some noise. Since these parts are so much cheaper in the US than
in France (or even in Europe in general) and I was going on a business
trip to the US, I ordered these parts from Hal Rogers to be delivered to
a friends home, where I just picked them up. And surprise, the package has
arrived on time, everything is there, even the screws for the non-metric
compressor included. Thumps up for Hal !

- Matthias

ps
for all of you European travelling to the US : the weight limit for luggage
is 140 pounds (2 bags each 70 pounds max each)

pps
Of course I need to get the new parts installed. I have some A/C tools
like a 2 gauge tester and a high vacuum pump and even some R12. But I have
no experience at A/C at all. Is this something I can do myself ? I have
heard one major problem is the hose going to the heater matrix being sized.

From: “Pete Schultz” pschultz@VAX1.BEMIDJI.MSUS.EDU
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 17:20:55 -0600
Subject: XJ6 - Heater Problems

Hello All,
I’m having trouble with the climate control system in my
car because the previous owner butchered it (to put it lightly).
I was wondering if anyone could point me in the direction of
a source for used parts, or discounted priced parts, as I am
a college student on a tight budget.
Thank you,
Pete…

Some of the parts needed…
A/C Unit
Servo
Wiper Switch

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 00:45:17 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: XJ-S Starting Problem

I think his XJ-S has the cold start injectors, so this might
be something to verify. Then also the water temperature sensor
for the ECU. I’m currently playing with these settings and can tell
you that this value is very critical

- Matthias

Recently I met an interesting fellow by the name of Paul. He lives
in rural Southern Ontario, Canada, and, with others, is involved in
farming as wll as operating a used car lot. He likes Jags and has had a
1981 XJ-S for the last three years. He likes the car but does not appear
to know much about its mechanisms. He says the car runs well apart from
one problem, which Paul would very much like to cure. He does not have
access to the Internet.

When the engine is cold it is difficult to start the car, especially at
lower temperatures. I watched him try to start it when it was about 15
degrees C. On turning the ignition key the engine would run for a second
or two and then die. This happened about half a dozen times and then the
engine on the next attempt it did not die but ran very slowly for perhaps
ten seconds, after which it speeded up and ran normally from then on. The
car starts without difficulty if the engine is warm.

Can anyone suggest a possible cause of this behaviour that Paul can look
into? The car was built in Dec. 1980. It has the fuel rail with
rectangular cross section. I am not sure which ignition system it has.

I will pass on any suggestions to Paul and let you know what happens. It
might be a while before Paul can investigate because he is busy with the
harvest at present.

John Nuttall

jnuttall@julian.uwo.ca

1977 XJ-S
1979 XJ-S for parts

From: “Martin Leung” martin_leung@qmail2.aero.org
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 15:45:27 -0800
Subject: A Transmission Question

                                                                12:47 PM

OFFICE MEMO Time:
Subject:
A Transmission Question 7/5/96
Date:

Just about a year ago, I purchased a 88’ Vanden Plas with 150K miles. It is
in excellent conditions. I love the way it looks and drives. Recently, the
automatic transmission started to shift erratically. Riding at a constant
speed on the freeway (70 mph @ 2000 rpm), the car jerks occasionally like it
downshifts for split second and then shifts back up again. It also does the
same thing at acceleration or decceleration. Otherwise, it rides like dream.
The Jaguar independent who works on it did a transmission service, i.e. fluid
and filter change. He didn’t find metal particles or other distressing signs.
But it is still shifting erratically. Please enlighten me, since I know very
little about Jags.
By the way, this forum is a great service to a novice like me.

From: cobac@ix.netcom.com
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 15:58:14 -0800
Subject: Protective Door Side Mouldings

Hi all!,
Just curious about the door side mouldings on Jaguars. I have seen
many XJ40’s all with different side mouldings. I like the one that goes on
the bottom line of the door (not in the middle of the door), it is about 3/4
inch thick black plastic, and above it has a tiny chrome strip to accent the
black moulding. It is very similar to the X300 style mouldings (just not
painted and color matched).
Weird thing is that I have seen them on SOME XJ40’s AND XJS’s (must be
aftermarket if they can work on the coupe AND sedan), they seem to have been
cut by the installer and are very preventive to stop door dings.
I wish I could give a better description, but no one I talked to has a
listing for any side mouldings for the XJ40. Any idea where to get them?
Or know what I’m talking about??

Thanks,
Eric
1989 XJ40 VDP

From: “Robert Johnson, D.Sc.” bjomejag@sover.net
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 1996 19:25:17 -0400
Subject: Re: electrical short?

Kevin P. Campbell wrote:

Gentlemen

Any advice for a battery drainage of 0.34 amps? The fuse that is pulled
to stop the drain is the interior light, radio antena , clock.

How long will it take 1/3 amp to drain a new battery?

Thanks for any help.

Kevin Campbell

Kansas City

kckckc@qni.com

A draw of 340ma would drain a new battery in about 10 days.
An aged battery would last significantly less. I have seen
radio systems with booster amplifiers that draw this amount
on a standby basis.

Bob Johnson
Brattleboro, Vt.
XJ50, XJ12l, Mk X

From: Rod Farmer 100646.664@CompuServe.COM
Date: 04 Nov 96 19:28:32 EST
Subject: Jag-Lovers

My name is Rod Farmer, I’m 48 and live in South Wales, Great Britain. I have
| owned an XK 120, ‘E’ type and a selection of MK 2s, all some years ago. I have
| just bought my first Jaguar for 20 years. It’s a Daimler 3.6 has had one
| previous owner and has a full Jaguar dealer service record. The car has
covered
| 160,00 miles and is in very nice condition. It’s got every extra (I think!)
| electric everything, auto, cruise control, CD player, etc. etc.
|
| I have owned the car for 4 days to date and have only on problem which I hope
| someone can advise me on. The ABS braking system comes into action at very low
| speed, about 1-2 miles per hour. Just as I am finally pulling up, the ABS unit
| ‘chatters’ away for a few seconds. The brakes work fine and the warning system
| does not show a fault. It is a bit annoying and I would like to sort it out.
Any
| ideas?
|
| Thanks in advance to all who might come back to me on this problem.
|
| Regards,
|
| Rod

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #493

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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 5 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 494

Re: XJ-S Tires
Another dead cat (XJ6)
XJ6 SIII not starting
XJ6 SIII starting problems
Wiring Diagrams
XJS Fuel leak
Climate Control XJ6
Re: Passenger side fender Mystery…
Re: XJS Fuel leak
Re: Trunion Bearings?
Re: Lindner/Nocker
Re: Rear Brakes on 88 XJ-S & Thanks
XJ6 3.2 Diamond Jubilee Edition?
SI E-TYPE FRONT BRAKE UPGRADE
Re: boot lock
Re: xj6 ser.1: power antenna
Re: Snow Sneakers for XJ 6 SIII
Re: Wiring Diagrams
Re: Climate Control XJ6
Jaguar Sport Kit
re: electrical short

From: John Goodman 101547.1141@CompuServe.COM
Date: 04 Nov 96 19:47:18 EST
Subject: Re: XJ-S Tires

Steve wrote:

I dare say I do not have performance tires on the car. Since a change
is coming, would you
suggest what would be a good replacement for excellent handling?
Thanks.
'88 xj-s
'89 xj40vdp
e-mail at:
s_draper@wcsr.com

What wheels have you, 15" or 16" ?

If you have 15" wheels then I found Pirelli P6000 235 x 60 gave good all
round performance on standard starfish wheels. These were fitted by
Jaguar with the 15" “lattice” Jag wheels option in '88 before they
changed to 16".

Bear in mind the same size tyre will perform differently with
alternative rim widths. If you got 16" rims then 225 x 55 Pirelli /
Goodyear are the normal.

245 x 45 Dunlop D40’s are the widest Jaguar ever fitted to the rear of
the XJR-S on 8" Speedline, or Aerosport wheels on the '92. Note the
last of the XJ-S’s had the Aerosport wheels but these were only 7.5"
wide. The speedline (bottletop) wheels are 8" front and back but are not
interchangeable, having different offsets.

Also, if you put wider tyres on the back than the front then
consideration needs to be given to what size spare to carry !!? Jaguars’
solution to the XJR-S was a temporary speed restricted tyre on a 15"
wheel !

Regards

John Goodman 101547.1141@compuserve.com

'89 XJR-S 6.0

From: “John Littler” auibmdak@ibmmail.com
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 1996 19:50:40 EST
Subject: Another dead cat (XJ6)

Gunnar recounted his tale of woe (my commiserations) and concluded

Lessons learned? Although the XJ6 has a race-bred engine and suspension
it is not a sports car. The laws of nature apply even to Jaguars.
Well the XJ6 may not be a sports car but it’s certainly able to hold its
own. I took my XJ6 for a run through the Old Pacific Highway - 30 kms
of windy road just North of Sydney weekend before last and it was able to
to corner at double the speed advisory signs without excessive tyre
squealing or instability.
The corners ranged from 30km to 70km (recommended) I was able to keep the
speed between 60 and 100 km without any major problems except for catch
ing up to slower vehicles. It was nice and flat through the corners with
littlebody roll ( amazing for a 2 ton car) very stable on rough corners
with no tendency to wander when the road was rough (this road doesnt get
much maintenance).
My only complaints were that the engine felt a bit under powered when I
was caning it like this - I should have bought the V12 !!! And I really
wanted a manual gearbox for this sort of driving - its hard to get smooth
changes with the auto (or it is for me at least - I’ve been driving
manuals for 15 years this is my first automatic). The automatic is great
around the city though - smooth as silk.
Oh, and I was able to pass a couple of “sports cars” ( ToyotaCelica,
something else I didn’trecognise and a “hotted up” Holden Torana) with
out too much hassle (I suspect though that was a function of their
drivers being pussys rather than the cars)
Never let it be said an XJ6 won’t corner - it mightn’t be an E-type or an
XJS but I think the tag “sports saloon” is fair and reasonable.
John

Level 1, 29-57 Christie St.
St Leonards NSW 2065
Ph: +61-2-9937-8063 Fax: +61-2-9937-8100
Mobile +61-419-617-619

From: “John Littler” auibmdak@ibmmail.com
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 1996 20:16:52 EST
Subject: XJ6 SIII not starting

*** Resending note of 05/11/96 11:38
Bruce
I had a similar problem on my SIII - intermittent not starting, mine
turned out to be corrosion on the starter relay connectors inhibiting
power flow - pull the leads off and spray with an anti corrosion spray, I
had a number of bad contacts on mine which caused a few problems. If it’s
not that it could be the starter relay or as you suggested the ignition
switch itself…or possibly other bits along the electrical circuit -
time to break out the ammeter !!.
John

Every few times I try to start the Jag the starter motor doesn’t kick in
the starter relay. It appears that all the other correct things are
happening (fuel pump, etc). It acts like the park switch in the
transmission is not functioning. However, play with the key enough and
it goes. Has anyone had this problem? Any ideas? Could it be the key
switch? Thanks for any help you can give.
Bruce

From: John Baxa jwbaxa@atl.mindspring.com
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 1996 21:36:47 -0500
Subject: XJ6 SIII starting problems

Having been lurking the list for the past two weeks, I think I found a
question I can contribute something to…

From: bsawyer@mint.net (Bruce Sawyer)
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 07:37:17 -0500
Subject: XJ6 sIII starting problems

Every few times I try to start the Jag the starter motor doesn’t kick in or
the starter relay. It appears that all the other correct things are
happening (fuel pump, etc). It acts like the park switch in the
transmission is not functioning. However, play with the key enough and off
it goes. Has anyone had this problem? Any ideas? Could it be the key
switch? Thanks for any help you can give.

Bruce-
I’ve had a similar problem where I think the transmission switch may be
suspect. If you want an easy way to bypass that connect a wire from W1 on
the starter relay to ground–that will eliminate the wiring through the
bulkhead connector to the transmission switch which then goes to ground.

I also had another problem where the car would die in mid-flight. That is,
cruising down the road every once in a while the electical system would just
die (except for headlamps). The radio went out, the dash lights failed,
etc. But it would start back up again with a turn of the key. I replaced
the electrical part of the ignition switch (about US$ 70 at my local
dealer–there must be better sources). It took about two months for the
problem to get progressively worse, where I could determine that just
jiggling the key would cause it. Probably because I have too many keys on
the ring with the ignition key that the extra weight over time causes
additional wear.

John Baxa, Atlanta
'86 XJ6, SIII
(Have Lust for E-Type)

From: John Baxa jwbaxa@atl.mindspring.com
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 1996 21:45:31 -0500
Subject: Wiring Diagrams

From: “Bart G. Denys” AllPorsche@cajunnet.com
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 1996 08:22:32 -0600
Subject: Wiring Diagrams

Friends,

I’d like to find a color printed wire diagram for my '86 XJ6 VDP. The
jaglist technical pages suggest that they were printed by Jaguar of
North America. I left an email to our “technical chairman” but never got
a reply. Anybody has any ideas ?

Thanks,

Bart

Bart-
I just bought a wiring guide for my '86 XJ6 from Jaguar Services for US$
20.00 which I now find indespinsible. I found them in Hemmings. It’s not
color but has color codes…

Jaguar Services
16820 South Lathrop
Harvey, Illinois 60426
(708) 331-9151 (708) 331-9404

I think they charge me $4.00 for shipping UPS and got here to Atlanta in
about a week.

John Baxa, Atlanta
'86 XJS SIII
(But I really do lust for an E-Type)

From: Richard Griffiths 73564.2101@CompuServe.COM
Date: 04 Nov 96 21:05:49 EST
Subject: XJS Fuel leak

Sang wrote >>>> I started smelling gasoline in the car while I was driving. I
thought it was coming from the car ahead of me. After while there was no car
front of me and gasoline smell didn’t go away. Fairly strong gasoline odor was
getting unbearable.

I came home and park the car in the garage. I smelled fuel odor inside and
outside of the car.

I never smelled this before in my car. And it is very annoying when driving
with windows up and heater on.

Any XJS owner with same kind of problem or experience on how to go about fixing
it?
What should I look for?<<<<<<<

Sang
When I had same smell in my 86 it was the hose connections on the fuel filter in
the trunk.
You need to remove the spare and the battery cover to get to them. Then with
mirrors and some gymnastics you can get to all the connections in that location.
Run car ahead of this and you may find gas under the spare wheel when you remove
it.
Others have had leaks under the hood at the fuel rail, so you should try to
locate which end of the car stinks most.
Good luck and NO SMOKING.
RG
86 XJS

From: John Baxa jwbaxa@atl.mindspring.com
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 1996 22:07:13 -0500
Subject: Climate Control XJ6

From: “Bob Gessler” XK-E@msn.com
Date: Thu, 31 Oct 96 12:27:10 UT
Subject: climate control

I have am 86 XJ6 that is having a problem with the climate control. The
system will not idle. It cools brilliantly however upon reaching the desired
temperature it moves to full heat. After roasting for a while it rotates to
forceful cooling then the entire cycle repeats itself, again, again, again.
As you can imagine this is very frustrating. I have checked the amplifier and
everything else I can think of to no avail. Any suggestions would be greatly
appreciated.
This is my fourth Jag the first being an 68 E coupe then an XJS and two XJ6s
the first burned with a fire under the dash. Great cars

I, too, have seen this happen on my XJ6 SIII but usually I can play with the
temperature control (back and forth) until the problem goes away. Maybe I
just get hotter by the time I’m done and the cabin temperature has risen
enough to solve the problem.

I know the climate control is based on a resistor matrix known as a
Wheatstone bridge and it has various inputs from sensors within the cabin
that vary the resistence in the circuit. My question is: can you calibrate
the temperature control? My experience is that in moderate heat, I ALWAYS
have the temperature control on 65-degrees (it runs 65-75, if I remember
correctly) which doesn’t seem cool enough most of the time. In extreme
Georgia summers, it doesn’t matter what it is set to, it always cools.

John Baxa, Atlanta
'86 XJ6 SIII
(But lusting about an E-Type)

From: theo bremner tbremner@lynx.dac.neu.edu
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 21:19:51 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Passenger side fender Mystery…

Hello,

This evenning while removing the hubs and eventually rotors from

my 1985 SOV SIII I noticed in the passenger side fender well towards the
front that there was a boxy looking container or something that was
rotted through and the bottom was gone. I believe it has something to
do with the vapor lock deal with the gas but I’m not too sure should it
be replace and where would I get one and how hard is it to install
myself?
Thanks for any input,
Theo
tbremner@lynx.neu.edu

From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 1996 22:16:05 -0500
Subject: Re: XJS Fuel leak

At 09:05 PM 04/11/96 EST, you wrote:

Sang wrote >(in part> I started smelling gasoline in the car while I was
driving.
Fairly strong gasoline odor was getting unbearable.
I came home and park the car in the garage. I smelled fuel odor inside and
outside of the car.

Just a friendly reminder in case this happens to anyone again;
Rather good idea to NOT park the car in the garage if you smell
strong gas odor!
You may have more than a small fire to put out!
Best,

Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
'62 E-Type, ots, flat floor.

From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 23:12:44 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Trunion Bearings?

Maybe someone can help me out on this one… IN the clove box
of my 85 SOV SIII I found a slip form a Jag mechanic that said Trunion
Bearings were getting sloppy… I know they are some where in the rear
suspension but where and how do I check them there seems to be no noise
when driving from them…

this most likely refers to the bearings that attach the rear bearing carrier
to the lower control arm. These bearings will wear out on cars that do not
see regular lubes.

There was a fairly long discussion on the list not too long ago about this
rear suspension… it’s closely controlled camber and bump steer character-

-istics. When these bearings wear, this race-bred suspension is degraded,
possibly to the point of being dangerous.

If these bearings are shot, they will not make a continuous moise with wheel
rotation, like a wheel bearing does. It might squeak with suspension movement,
but, if any noise is to be made, it will most likely be a knocking noise
when the thrust vector changes on the wheel. (trans shifts, accel<>braking, etc.)

Checking is simple. lift the rear of the car, and see if there is any movement
in any direction in the rear wheels. If so, figure out where the slop is and
repair. (note, I will allow a minor amount of play in the wheel bearings
without too much complaint).

I’m wonderring if the mechanic was trying to
make some fast cash on the preious owner by doing repairs he didn’t need
or what…

More likely a dead-assed PO that couldn’t tell his Jag was handling like a
cheby.

Theo

Randy

From: “B. Askew” askewb@global.co.za
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 06:38:02 -0200 (GMT)
Subject: Re: Lindner/Nocker

Dear Jon

At 21:55 04/11/96 +0000, you wrote:

Anyone know of any good resources, books, websites, whatever, with info and
pictures of the Lindner/Nocker Lightweight ?

I know of two good book references:

Phillip Porter’s “E Type - the definitive history” Chapter 8
Andrew Whyte’s “Jaguar Sports Racing and Competition Cars from 1954” Chapter 11

Also Lynx Engineering in the UK make lightweight replicas, I think Porter
says that they rebuilt the actual Linder/Nocker car.

Good luck Brian

From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 23:28:06 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Rear Brakes on 88 XJ-S & Thanks

Thanks to Aaron Burnett for replying to my message about my leaking rear
brake on my XJ-S. He was correct in that the problem was that the seals &
dust covers needed to be replaced. He also warned me that the Haynes manual
was WRONG on some parts. Well Aaron, so is the Jaguar 4 volume repair
manual & the 1 volume Repair manual with the HE supplement, They are wrong
on how the calipers mount. Both manuals tell you to break the wire and
remove the bolts that are shown on the outside of the calipers. There is no
wire & the bolts are on the inside of the calipers. You must move the wheel
to align a hold in the rotor to remove / replace these 2 bolts.

The difference is the Salisbury vs. Dana diff. You can tell the difference
easily. The Dana does not have a drain plug. Dana’s were used (at least for
US spec) through the mid and later 80’s. Jaguar does not like to admit this
differential ever existed. The last time I checked, their official repair
policy was “remove and install a Salisbury”. The manuals tend to not
acknowledge it’s presense in a large number of S’, either.

Removing & replacing the emergency brakes are not very fun to do either. An
access panel under the rear seats would be nice. At least my Jag is back on
the road again.

I do understand one persons recommendation to just drop the entire rear end
as working on this “on the bench” instead of underneath the car would be
much easier, just a lot more up front work. Maybe next summer if I decide
to replace the rotors & all the rubber when I need new brakes again.

I’ve found on S’ that it takes more extra time fighting those e-brake
calipers than it does to drop the entire cage down for clean access. On
sedans it’s pretty much a wash.

John Himes
88 XJ-S 98K Miles

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

From: Fei Chun Ma m956337@umacsn1.umac.mo
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 13:00:49 +0800 (HKT)
Subject: XJ6 3.2 Diamond Jubilee Edition?

Hello!

Have you heard of the XJ6 3.2 Diamond Jubilee Edition?

				Best Regards,
				Ma Fei Chun, Patrick.

From: ETYPEGUY@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 00:12:58 -0500
Subject: SI E-TYPE FRONT BRAKE UPGRADE

Issue: Can I upgrade the front brakes on my 1966 SI 2+2 E Type using SIII
vented
disks, calipers and stub axle carriers?

If yes: Is there a procedure?
What other parts would be required?
What is the impact of upgrading the front brakes but not the rear?

Thank you in advance for your help!

                             Andy Paul
                             Kaneohe, Hawaii

From: SCleme519@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 00:17:39 -0500
Subject: Re: boot lock

Kevin,

In a message dated 96-11-03 14:27:37 EST, you write:

<< The boot is
locked and not to ever open again!. >>

I had the same problem. I drilled a small hole in right below the handle of
the trunk, and was able to lift the catch mechanism with a piece of stiff
wire. I lubricated the tumblers in the lock, and it works fine now. I
filled the hole with silicone sealer, and its all but invisible, even if you
get your head in a position to see it.

Steve Clements
85 SIII VDP

From: SCleme519@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 00:17:48 -0500
Subject: Re: xj6 ser.1: power antenna

Per:

Attached is a post I saved from LEAMYS@aol.com regarding the adjustment of
the power antanae. Getting to the motor is easy, at least on my series III.

This repair covers ant that just wont quite make it up or down and still
makes a clicking noise before stopping. If you your ant is dead or frozen
email me and will cover repair for that problem.

Ok, for 87 XJ’s and older you will have to remove spare tire and the plastic
cover that
covers the fuel tank swithing unit and the ant drive motor (NO SMOKING )
It is in the center of the rear of the trunk area.
The ant drive unit unit is mounted on a frame and bolted to the the body by 2
or 3 bolts. You want to get to the side of the unit that looks like a cup and
has a screw in the middle of it. Remove the screw and the cover and you will
have now exposed the clutch drive for the ant. On the shaft in center you
will find a locking nut which you
will now back off 1 or 2 turns, now grip the metal clutch and tighten 1/2
turn .
retighten locking nut and prop unit up so you can test it .
Turn key on and radio and ant will raise in 15 to 20 seconds, once ant
reaches full height you should hear 3 bumps and ant motor should shut off.
Turn key off and ant should go down complete and 3bumps and motor will cut
off.
If ant still does not go full up or down adjust clutch in quarter turns until
a full stroke is atained. <<

From: SCleme519@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 00:17:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Snow Sneakers for XJ 6 SIII

Bruce,

I drive my S III in the winter in the Peoria, IL, USA area, and do pretty
well with my Michelin P215 all-season radials. If there is black ice on the
road (which there is often enough around here), it gets a little hairy, but
that would be true with any car/tire combination. On plain old packed snow,
the car handles well, and with all that weight it has good traction.

Steve Clements
85 S III VDP

From: SCleme519@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 00:17:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Wiring Diagrams

Bart,

I bought “publication S 57” published by Jaguar Cars, Inc. which is an
electrical guide that covers SIII XJ6’s. Although the diagrams are not
colored, they are pretty clear. Also shown are plan view drawings of the car
with the locations of the various electrical relays, etc., along with
sketches of the actual parts in question (relays and switches mostly).

The pages are made of thick paper, like light cardboard, and came in a
three-ring binder. That makes it easy to use and hard to beat up. I got it
from Jaguar Services in Harvey, IL (708) 331-9151 at a cost of $12.00 (that
was in April of '95).

Steve Clements
85 SIII VDP

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 00:44:21 -0005
Subject: Re: Climate Control XJ6

I have am 86 XJ6 that is having a problem with the climate control. The
system will not idle. It cools brilliantly however upon reaching the desired
temperature it moves to full heat.

Mine USED to do this, until I adjusted the flaps!

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: “Richard.Mansell” Richard.Mansell@psemail.ps.net
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 22:52:00 +0000
Subject: Jaguar Sport Kit

------ =_0_MIME_Boundary_19224.327ee099.imoiouw0.eurh021.eur.ps.net
---------------------------- Forwarded with Changes ---------------------------
From: owner-jag-lovers@sn.no%ussmtp at ccx400uk
Date: 11/3/96 10:30PM
To: Richard Mansell at Not-Cop5
*To: jag-lovers@sn.no%ussmtp at ccx400uk
Subject: Jaguar Sport

------ =_0_MIME_Boundary_19224.327ee099.imoiouw0.eurh021.eur.ps.net
Content-Type: text/plain; name=“Authorized by…”; charset=us-ascii

Message authorized by:
: armsco@primenet.com%ussmtp at ccx400uk

------ =_0_MIME_Boundary_19224.327ee099.imoiouw0.eurh021.eur.ps.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Michael

I had an argument with a lorry recently=2c I think he won=2e Part of t=
he =

damage included my Jaguar Sport rear bumper=2e The spray shop just =

ordered one from the local Jaguar dealer =28UK=29 with no problems wha=
t so =

ever=2e

If you need it I will try and find out the part number when my car =

comes back=2e

Richard
Richard=2eMansell=40ps=2enet

=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=
=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f Forward Header =5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=
=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f
Subject=3a Jaguar Sport
Author=3a owner-jag-lovers=40sn=2eno=25ussmtp at ccx400uk
Date=3a 03=2f11=2f96 22=3a30

In my seemongly never ending quest for the rear panel for the XJ-S ground =

effects kit=2c I have found referances to the XJR-S from Jaguar Sport=2e On=
e =

source said that all the ground effects kits were shipped to the US=2c when=

Jaguar sold Jaguar Sport=2e
=

Does anyone out there know what and where Jaguar Sport is=3f
=

Second question=2e One servo motor in my power mirror controler is bad=2e I=
do =

not like the idea of paying over =a4100 for a whole new mirror control unit=
=2e =

Does anyone have a source for just the servo=3f They appear to be the same =
on =

both the XJ-S and the XJ6
=

Michael

------ =_0_MIME_Boundary_19224.327ee099.imoiouw0.eurh021.eur.ps.net–

From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Mon, 04 Nov 96 22:59:00 PST
Subject: re: electrical short

 Kevin,

 Have you ruled out the glove box lamp?  Your post said you had a 
 0.34A leakage.  Thinking about this a bit, I just now went out and 
 measured the draw of that lamp, using an ammeter in series with 
 that lamp and nothing else, and it draws about 0.3A.  As you said, 
 the fuse involved is for the interior, clock, and radio antenna.  
 Could well power this lamp as well.  I know for a fact that if the 
 glove box lamp is lit when the car is unused, the battery will be 
 flat within a week (2-year old, but really good battery).  Ask me 
 how I know.

 Maybe the boot lamp?

 David
 '84 XJ6 VDP - the light is out when the glove box is shut
 '70 E-type 2+2 - glove box is so small it doesn't need a lamp, nor 
 would it fit

 Kevin P. Campbell wrote:
 >Gentlemen
 >Any advice for a battery drainage of 0.34 amps? The fuse that is 
 >pulled to stop the drain is the interior light, radio antena , 
 >clock.  Traced the lines for the drivers door and under dash area 
 and no luck.
 >
 >
 >How long will it take 1/3 amp to drain a new battery?
 >
 >Kevin Campbell

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #494

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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 5 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 495

XJ6 steering-wheel question.
SIII engine cut out/no start
David Cox
Hella H4 headamps in Jags
Re: HE designation
Re: Lucas headlights.
Re: XKE ownership trace
Re: HE designation
Re: electrical short
Protective Door Side Mouldings
…no subject…
S-Type Brake Rotors
85 XJS HE Alternator
Re: HE designation
XJ6 SIII starting problems
Re: XJ6 sIII starting problems
RE: XJS painting chromed plastic
Re: XJ-S and XJ6 Theft prevention.
Re: recommendation
Bad News/Good News

From: Fei Chun Ma m956337@umacsn1.umac.mo
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 15:43:29 +0800 (HKT)
Subject: XJ6 steering-wheel question.

Hello!

Do you if there exist any series of XJ6 with full wooded or half wooded

steering-wheel?

				Ma Fei Chun, Patrick.

From: “Andrew Sandiforth” acer@serv.net
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 00:27:53 -0800
Subject: SIII engine cut out/no start

Well, my 1984 XJ6 Vanden Plas is now sitting in the driveway of my office
building 40 minutes from home.
I wrote before looking for some help on intermittant engine cut outs after
it wouldn’t start. Tonight the motor cut out in heavy trafic and resisted
all attempts to restart.

Last weekend I replaced the coolant temp sensor, cleaned the leads and
checked the ground. I also went over every connection I could find and
insured good contacts.

Symptoms:
Fuel is definately getting to the fuel rail
Plugs are getting good spark
(When running the car is smooth and powerful)
Has new cap, rotor, plugs and wires
The motor turns over fine put doesn’t catch
Plugs are dry

What are the chances of it being the following:

Air flow meter switch?
Power resister
Ignition amplifier
Thermotine switch (The boot is brittled and cracked, but the wires are ok)
ECU or ECU temp sensor
Defective cold start relay
Auxillary air valve
Relay assembly (by the battery)

Thanks to everyone who offered help this far. I appreciate any ideas!

Andrew

From: jagmag@ecn.net.au (Hughes Graphics and Design)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 18:52:40 +1000
Subject: David Cox

Nick,

Finally remembered where I had David Cox’s details.

He can be telephoned at Jaguar Cars, Browns Lane on 1203 203 876. I have
spoken to him on that line so know that it works.

All the e-mail messages are coming through from you on your service now -
but I can’t send a note back in the normal fashion - is there something
wrong - or is that normal?

Kindest regards

LES.

From: “Peter Hamel (h)” pete-hamel@dial.pipex.com
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 1996 10:16:35 -0800
Subject: Hella H4 headamps in Jags

Greg Meboe mentioned in his posting that the Hella H4 headlamps can be
used in the XJ range. I understand these are brighter than the usual
Lucas ones. If these can be found on old VW Golfs then that sounds even
better.

Can Greg or anyone else tell me if the the Hella headlamps need any
modifications to fit on Jags. Is the connector on the back the same, and
are they sealed beam or with separate bulb ?

Thanks

Pete Hamel
'86 XJ6 SIII UK

From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 11:11:03 -0800
Subject: Re: HE designation

Bard:

HE stands for High Efficiency and it appeared in connection with the
V12-engines some time in the mid-eighties.

Kirby:

Early eighties, actually.

OK, 1982 actually, when Jaguar had invested heavily in production machinery to
implement the Swiss enginer Michael May’s high turbulence combustion chamber
which he had been peddling throughout the industry claiming a number of
advantages resulting from the high compression ratio and leaner mixture that it
enabled.

Jan elaborates:

The big difference between the High Efficiency heads and the earlier variant is
that the early V12 had the combustion chamber in the piston and a flat cylinder
head; the HE has a flat piston and a “bathtub” combustion chamber in the head.
The large “squish” area between the piston and the flat part of the head
promotes strong turbulence, which mixes the charge better and allows the HE to
run a much leaner mixture. The high compression ratio (I have a 12.5:1 example)
aids both power and economy.

The “Fireball” heads had been given a special design of the combustion
chambers.

The new combustion chambers were referred to as a “fireball” design.
That term wasn’t used for the pre-H.E.

Read it again Kirby. That’s what I meant, they were referred to as Fireball
because of the swirl it created upon combustion.

This was supposed to give better fuel economy, but it turned out that the
opposite was a fact in most cases.

Gee, I don’t think so. The XJ-S H.E. gets around 16 mpg (miles/US
gallon) city, 18-20 highway. Word from some members of this group is
that the pre-H.E. gets MUCH worse, like 9-12. Of course, your
mileage may vary.

Being without first hand experience I have to rely on so called depenable
sources here. The last time I read someone’s comment was LJK Setright (at least
the name sounds prudent :-)) who says that the economy claimed for the Fireball
chambers required low-load operation. When the engine was driven hard by
treating the car “as the high speed job it puported to be…” the fuel
consumption actually became worse than before.

In fact, if a few pre-H.E. owners would confirm what their mileages
actually are, I’d probably mention it in the XJ-S help book. Checking
if one’s mileage is something near what it should be is a good clue
as to the condition of one’s car.

According to other reliable sources the HE milage was 15.6 mpg at normal
cruising speed in 1982. Variable measures have been introduced since then to
improve fuel economy. Anyone who knows more about this?

Regards,
Bard

______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no

From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 11:35:59 -0800
Subject: Re: Lucas headlights.

Dear all,

My PO (yes, I too have one) somewhere along the years did the unmentionable
thing He replaced the Lucas headlights with Hella. Possibly to get rid of
the sealed beam units in favour of H4, I don’t know. (It’s not as bad as one
fellow Jaggee, though. His are Volvo!! Yyack)

Anyways, I want Lucas back to light my path, so please all of you XJ’ers out
there. What Lucas part number are YOUR headlights (in & out) (along with XJ
model and year, please)?

Thanks a zillion!

Bard (Jaguar XJ6 Series I '73)

______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no

From: ffilangeri@juno.com (Frank A Filangeri)
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 1996 03:47:42 EST
Subject: Re: XKE ownership trace

Hi Tim,
Send to the Address below the required info including a copy of your
registration. The only thing I am not sure of is the price…it may have
gone up. You may want to call first. This service is handled by Karen
Miller.

201-818-8144
JAGUAR ARCHIVES, JAGUAR CARS INC.
555 MAC ARTHUR BLVD.
MAHWAH, NJ 07430

SEND $25, ALL INFO FROM COMMISSION
PLATE AND PROOF OF OWNERSHIP

On Mon, 4 Nov 96 9:03:14 EST tam@hcxio.hdw.hcsc.com (Tim Massey) writes:

Frank

I recently received my Jaguar Heritage Trust Record Trace
Certificate and
was suprised to find the original owner for my 62 E OTS listed in
California! I have traced and met the previous two owners on Long
Island

How did you do a record trace??

tim

From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 14:09 +0100
Subject: Re: HE designation

Gee, I don’t think so. The XJ-S H.E. gets around 16 mpg (miles/US
gallon) city, 18-20 highway. Word from some members of this group is
that the pre-H.E. gets MUCH worse, like 9-12. Of course, your
mileage may vary.

Being without first hand experience I have to rely on so called depenable
sources here. The last time I read someone’s comment was LJK Setright (at
least
the name sounds prudent :-)) who says that the economy claimed for the
Fireball
chambers required low-load operation. When the engine was driven hard by
treating the car “as the high speed job it puported to be…” the fuel
consumption actually became worse than before.

Mr Setright needs the full 300 HP for the majority of his driving mileage??
Probably he needed to check the centrifugal advance of his distributor,=20
seized maybe.
At any rate, while he is a very knowledgeable writer about things technical,=20=

he enjoys going against confirmed opinions. On top of that he loves Honda’s;=20=

judging his latest article about Jaguars in “Classic Car” magazine, his love=20=

of things Jaguar can be improved upon.

In fact, if a few pre-H.E. owners would confirm what their mileages
actually are, I’d probably mention it in the XJ-S help book. Checking
if one’s mileage is something near what it should be is a good clue
as to the condition of one’s car.

According to other reliable sources the HE milage was 15.6 mpg at normal
cruising speed in 1982. Variable measures have been introduced since then=20=

to

improve fuel economy. Anyone who knows more about this?

Regards,
Bard

–
______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no

If comparing mileages please indicate whether Imperial or US.

Frans. (hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch)

From: Doug Heinen povtybay@wolfenet.com
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 1996 05:04:31 +0930
Subject: Re: electrical short

David J Shield wrote:

 Kevin,

 Have you ruled out the glove box lamp?  Your post said you had a
 0.34A leakage.

 Kevin P. Campbell wrote:
 >Gentlemen
 >Any advice for a battery drainage of 0.34 amps?

Sit Ohm tells us that power in watts equals current (in amps) times the
voltage. .3amps x 12v = 3.6watts of power. Is thie bulb in question a
3.6watt or 4watt bulb? Just a thought…

doug heinen

From: cobac%ix.netcom.com%SwRI08@swri.edu
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 15:04:22 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Protective Door Side Mouldings

Forwarded to: SMTP[Jag-LOVERS@SN.NO]
cc:
Comments by: PLacey@Petrol@SwRI08
Comments:

I too am very interested in the protective side mouldings at the middle of
the door on my 88 XJ-40. The steel mount for the rubber strip has cracked
and also tarnished. If it is not origional Jaguar equipment, where can I get
this stuff???

Paul Lacey

-------------------------- [Original Message] -------------------------
Hi all!,
Just curious about the door side mouldings on Jaguars. I have seen
many XJ40’s all with different side mouldings. I like the one that goes on
the bottom line of the door (not in the middle of the door), it is about 3/4
inch thick black plastic, and above it has a tiny chrome strip to accent the
black moulding. It is very similar to the X300 style mouldings (just not
painted and color matched).
Weird thing is that I have seen them on SOME XJ40’s AND XJS’s (must be
aftermarket if they can work on the coupe AND sedan), they seem to have been
cut by the installer and are very preventive to stop door dings.
I wish I could give a better description, but no one I talked to has a
listing for any side mouldings for the XJ40. Any idea where to get them?
Or know what I’m talking about??

Thanks,
Eric
1989 XJ40 VDP

From: PLacey@swri.edu
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 96 8:04:56 CST
Subject: …no subject…

I have a 1978 XJS with a blown windscreen wiper motor. I am hopeing to get a
used motor at a scrap yard. However, before I start calling around, is this
motor common to all model years of the XJS and if not what years was it used
on? Is the same motor used on the XJ-6?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Paul Lacey, Texas

From: “White, Dick” white@msgate.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 09:12:00 -0500
Subject: S-Type Brake Rotors

Does anyone know the minimum thickness for the brake rotors (discs) on
an S-Type? I assume they aren’t much different for a 420 or maybe even
an early E-Type. I currently have the rear suspension out of my S-type
to replace the differential side seals and thought I would do the brakes
while I’m at it. The right rear rotor is scored due to an improper
installation of the hand brake by a PO and I’m wondering if I can have
it turned or should I replace it.

Nick,

You probably noticed I plagiarized your ‘info’ file for the xk-lovers
list. I apologize, I should have asked first. I didn’t see a need to
reinvent the wheel. Thanks.

Regards,
Dick White

Columbia, SC
'64 3.8 S-Type
'58 XK150 FHC

From: Fisher-Tommy@ophthalmology-po.ophth.uiowa.edu
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 96 14:57 CST
Subject: 85 XJS HE Alternator

 I think I found the problem, for those interested.  My Alternator
 has a burnt "rectifier" according to the auto electric expert.  He
 is going to replace this part, turn the armature, set new berings
 and brushes plus check the diodes for $200 +/-  with a one year
 gaurantee,  Good price??? Anyone have any comments on the Bosch 
 replacement???
 
 FISH

From: Cosmo simond@inflon.informix.com
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 1996 14:37:39 +0000
Subject: Re: HE designation

Baard Th Hesvik wrote:

Bard:

HE stands for High Efficiency and it appeared in connection with the
V12-engines some time in the mid-eighties.

Then:
Being without first hand experience I have to rely on so called depenable
sources here. The last time I read someone’s comment was LJK Setright (at least
the name sounds prudent :-)) who says that the economy claimed for the Fireball
chambers required low-load operation. When the engine was driven hard by
treating the car “as the high speed job it puported to be…” the fuel
consumption actually became worse than before.

I think I still have LJK’s original test from Autocar I think, in the
attic.
He tested the car down coutry lanes in 2nd gear (auto box) and spurnend
that when
1st was available. I don’t think that he managed to proove fuel economy
had
improved much, but he did enjoy himself.

I recall that some time in the mid-eighties a fuel economy rally was
held with
a number of motor cars taking part. Manufacturers put forward various
cars such
as Mini, 2CV etc. all of miniscule cc. Jaguar fielded an XJ-S HE and
everyone
sniggered. A 5.3L V12 and fuel economy, didn’t seem to fit somehow.
However,
the competition was based on a calculated efficiency and not raw MPG.
The
Jaguar came second, and quite close to the winner. Volumetric
efficiency (I
think is the term) was very high, but as pointed out above, fuel economy
rallies
do not load an engine too much.

In fact, if a few pre-H.E. owners would confirm what their mileages
actually are, I’d probably mention it in the XJ-S help book. Checking
if one’s mileage is something near what it should be is a good clue
as to the condition of one’s car.

According to other reliable sources the HE milage was 15.6 mpg at normal
cruising speed in 1982. Variable measures have been introduced since then to
improve fuel economy. Anyone who knows more about this?

Oh yes. Didn’t they saw the 12 in half and call it a AJ6 ?-)

Cosmo

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 08:54:29 -0600 (CST)
Subject: XJ6 SIII starting problems

If you havent found it yet, try slapping the starting relay on the firewall.

Then try reading “The XJ6 Jaguar from Bumper to Bumper” for more tips.

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 08:08:35 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Re: XJ6 sIII starting problems

{From: bsawyer@mint.net (Bruce Sawyer)
{Every few times I try to start the Jag the starter motor doesn’t kick in or
{the starter relay. It appears that all the other correct things are
{happening (fuel pump, etc). It acts like the park switch in the
{transmission is not functioning. However, play with the key enough and off
{it goes. Has anyone had this problem? Any ideas? Could it be the key
{switch? Thanks for any help you can give.

It definitely could be the key switch. This very thing happened to me
last spring. Below is the post…

First, turn on your headlights and check if they stay bright when you
try to start the car.

Yes: Check your ignition switch/wiring
No: Dead battery or bad connection from battery to starter.

I’ve experienced three similar electrical problems recently:

A burnt connection on the back of the ignition switch (XJ6).

Symptoms: Car is Dead with a capital D. Turn the key and
absolutely nothing happens. Headlights and cabin
lights work, but dash voltmeter is inert.

This bad contact occurred where the main positive 12volt feed (brown)
enters the back of the ignition switch. I incorrectly assumed that
it was a bad park position switch on the gear shifter, ripped the
console apart, shorted around the park switch and it was still dead.
I touched a bunch of stuff underneath the dash tracing wires and it
suddenly started. I had no idea why. I couldn’t get it to fail
again until the next morning when it stranded Anne in the driveway.
Remembering what I had done, she started wiggling underdash wires
until it started. It pointed her to the ignition switch. Then I got
under there and started wiggling wires until I could hear a relay
clicking. That traced it to the brown wire. It was warm and, if I
looked closely, I could see some burnt insulation and little sparks
at the connection. I replaced the switch (very easy) and everything
was OK until…
Bad connection on the throttle microswitch (XJ6).

Symptoms: Car starts fine, then it coughs, idles roughly and quits
after a few seconds. All electrics stay on except the fuel
pump.

Test: Unhook the two yellow wire connectors and put a jumperwire
across them. The car starts and idles fine, but when you
slowly press on the gas, the RPMs rapidly cycle up and down
near the idle RPM.

I’ve had trouble here before and it struck again just this morning.
There’s a little black microswitch with two yellow wires on the
intake manifold, near the throttle equipment. It senses when the
throttle is open. I think it’s connected to the fuel pump somehow
and cuts off the fuel pump under certain conditions. Awhile ago, I
noticed my microswitch was broken and replaced it with a generic one
with slightly smaller terminals. At first, I didn’t get a good
connection and the fuel pump would cut out after a few seconds. Once
I got a good connection, it ran OK.
A dead short (MGB).

A friend recently told me that her MGB would occasionally just lose
all electrics while driving down the road: headlights go off, engine
misses, gauges drop. I told her about the ignition switch, but that
didn’t explain her head lights, so I said it was probably a dead
short somewhere. A few days later she call to say that it was a dead
short, she wiggled the + cable and was greeted by a shower of sparks
where some insulation had rubbed off against the frame of the ca

/\ Lawrence Buja http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern/
_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
________________Boulder,Colorado___80307-3000

From: RMac@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 10:27:37 -0500
Subject: RE: XJS painting chromed plastic

John Goodman wrote:

"The usual procedure for chrome plating plastic involves application of
a conductive paint, then plating with copper and then chrome.

As a modeler, I would say that the majority of plated plastic pieces I have
seen are vacuum deposited aluminum clear coated with lacquer. These can
simply be painted without trouble. Check first to be sure you’ve got the
other kind. You might save yourself some trouble.

Robert MacLeay (rmac@aol.com)
1990 XJ40 VdP Majestic

From: Cindys4u@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 10:47:24 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ-S and XJ6 Theft prevention.

Please give more input on the cutoff switch.

Which cars does this apply.
Where is it located.
If not already in the car where do we get them.

From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 08:53:07 MDT
Subject: Re: recommendation

Matthias wrote:

I need to replace the A/C hoses on my XJ-S and the compressor started to

Of course I need to get the new parts installed. I have some A/C tools
like a 2 gauge tester and a high vacuum pump and even some R12. But I have
no experience at A/C at all. Is this something I can do myself ?

If you can find the appropriate specifications for the air-con
system (R12 capacity, operating pressures etc), its an easy job.
You need to make sure that the joints are VERY clean when you
assemble them, that you add the proper amount and type of oil to the
compressor, lube the o-rings on the joints with a light oil, and
that you add NO MORE than the maximum amount of R12.
In the US, however, you must have a license to do this job and must
recycle the R12. The responsible thing to do is to recycle the freon
first before you start by a reputable shop. After you have
reassembled the system, pump it down and let it sit for about 30
minutes (to evaporate water). Leak check it by letting it sit under
vacuum. Add the freon (only the amount specified in the manual) and
there you go ! I used to do it years ago and as long as you have the
pump and gauges (and now the special licensing) it should be
straightforward.

Kind Regards,

Jim Cantrell

From: Cosmo simond@inflon.informix.com
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 1996 16:10:25 +0000
Subject: Bad News/Good News

The Bad News:

I got caught out in torrential rain on the M3 and now have a bent
83 XJ6 sitting in the garage. Could have been worse, but the
BMW I hit had a tow bar that wrecked the bumper, front wing and
creased the bonnet. Didn’t look too bad but the insurance estimators
all shook their head, sucked in sharply and asked me if I knew that
a front bumper cost 800 quid? Ack! I was starting to resign myself
to having it written-off, buying the wreck and rebuilding it with
secondhand parts.

The Good News:

The assesor at the Fruad main dealer (well they own Jaguar I suppose)
took pity on my pleadings, acknowledged it to be a fine specimen of
the marque and has been able to persuade the insurance company that
the repair is worth doing with all new bits - bonnet, wing, bumper
etc. No mechanical damage (fingers crossed), just body work.

Their quote included 360 pounds labour + 120 paint etc. and parts
from Jaguar. The quote I got from Jaguar was 1,400 (all plus VAT)
but did not include the mythical 800 pound front bumper. The major
cost being the bonnet and chrome grill at over 600 quid.

Have Jaguar spare parts recently fallen in price? A front wing, even
at 167 pounds seems relatively cheap.

After it has been fixed I’ll post my thoughts on the conspiracy
between insurance companies and their authorised repair centres.

Cosmo

83 XJ6 4.2 (bent)
65 Mustang 289 (not bent)

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #495

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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 5 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 496

Re[2]: electrical short
Re: SI E-TYPE FRONT BRAKE UPGRADE
S-Type Brake Rotors
XJ6 Ser. 1: power antenna replacement
XJS Conversion to Convertible
Re: Pricing advise E-Type
Lindner/Nocker
Re: E-Type 2+2 S1 1966 Driving
E-type front AMCO bars
Re: AC Compressor XJ6
Re: XJS Conversion to Convertible
engine heater/crankshaft nut size
Re: Protective Door Side Mouldings
Re: SIII engine no start
Re: Protective Door Side Mouldings
XJ-S Starting problem
Re: engine heater/crankshaft nut size
XJ40 Sun Roof rubber seal
XJ40: Bulb Failure / Trunk Moisture
E-type noise
Re: E-type front AMCO bars
my XJ-S Mileage & Location of fuel cutoff switch

From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 96 08:34:00 PST
Subject: Re[2]: electrical short

The ammeter I used is a very old one and I was using the 10A range, so I can
only get a rough reading whe it’s down n the 0.3A end. Might be 0.3, might be
0.4, or in between. Anyway, if I were Kevin and I hadn’t done this yet, I’d
yank out the glovebox lamp to see if the leakage goes away.
Good luck!
David
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: electrical short
Author: povtybay@wolfenet.com at SMTPGATE
Date: 11/5/96 5:04 AM

David J Shield wrote:

 Kevin,

 Have you ruled out the glove box lamp?  Your post said you had a
 0.34A leakage.

 Kevin P. Campbell wrote:
 >Gentlemen
 >Any advice for a battery drainage of 0.34 amps?

Sit Ohm tells us that power in watts equals current (in amps) times the
voltage. .3amps x 12v = 3.6watts of power. Is thie bulb in question a
3.6watt or 4watt bulb? Just a thought…

doug heinen

From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 11:48:37 -0500
Subject: Re: SI E-TYPE FRONT BRAKE UPGRADE

On Nov 5, 12:12am, ETYPEGUY@aol.com wrote:

Subject: SI E-TYPE FRONT BRAKE UPGRADE
Issue: Can I upgrade the front brakes on my 1966 SI 2+2 E Type using SIII
vented
disks, calipers and stub axle carriers?

If yes: Is there a procedure?
What other parts would be required?
What is the impact of upgrading the front brakes but not the rear?

Thank you in advance for your help!
                             Andy Paul
                             Kaneohe, Hawaii
– End of excerpt from ETYPEGUY@aol.com

Yes you can. You can even use XJ6/12/S parts, the catch is that you MUST
use an aftermarket steering arm. Gran Turismo, Terrys or Earl Gibbs all sell
them. They are not cheap. Earl has an arm that is more friendly to street use,
the others are more for racing. I have Earls # if you need it… I am using
XJ12 discs, calipers and carriers They aren’t on the car yet and the thing is a
long way from running. - So I can’t give you any feed-back on how it works, but
I have heard that it is a huge improvement.
If you are going to do this you probably ought to use a 3 pot rear caliper
(no big deal really, there are adapter kits available from several sources). I
am looking for some of these too. S2 and S3 etype, and again,XJ6/12/S all work.
If you have a 4.2 Etype you don’t need to change your master cyl.

Mark McChesney
'65 Etype ots

From: “Alastair Lauener” a.lauener@napier.ac.uk
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 96 16:52:15 gmt
Subject: S-Type Brake Rotors

Dick Asked

Does anyone know the minimum thickness for the brake rotors (discs) on
an S-Type?

Dick, my book says
front are 3/8 inch thick, 11inch diameter
rear are 1/2 inch thick, 10 3/8 inch diameter

Alastair Lauener, 64 3.4 S-type

From: per@quantum.ece.ucsb.edu (Per Stenius)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 96 9:06:49 PST
Subject: XJ6 Ser. 1: power antenna replacement

OK, guys, in risk of boring you all to death, the power antenna saga continues
… Actually, I wanted to thank all of you who replied, directly or indirectly,
and at the same time ask a follow-up question: Has anybody purchased a power
antenna to their XJ6 Ser.1 (I have not found this item…) and if so, what
manufacturer (part no.) and at what price? Also, did your unit bolt-on
directly? As far as I know, the Ser. 1 never came with a power antenna as
standard, or am I wrong here? Finally, while on the subject, can anybody tell
me what where the standard radio/cassette(?) options for the Ser.1? I think
Phillips was one option, but I don’t know the model number… Any info on this
would be appreciated! (Yes, I am working on those few tenths of points for the
next concours…;-). Thanks, and take care,
Per
PS. I have started to add links to other peoples Jag pages from my own webpage,
so if you have a webpage (and especially if you discuss your XJ6 Ser. 1 there!)
with Jag content, send me a note and I’ll add a link to my page.

Per Stenius (http://www.ece.ucsb.edu/SQO/Per/)
Email: per@quantum.ece.ucsb.edu

From: Andy.Reynolds@lifesciences.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 19:32:27 +0200
Subject: XJS Conversion to Convertible

Hi list-ers,

During idle moments I sometimes think about about buying
a 10 year old XJS cheap, cutting off the top and re-spraying
(as a ‘small’ hobby project), thus making a fine convertible.

Perhaps someone could tell me why this is such a bad idea.

Let’s start with ‘reduction of stiffness of monocoque’ …

Andy Reynolds
1985 XJ6

From: bizmodel@prodigy.com (MR DAVID V KERNER)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 12:19:39, -0500
Subject: Re: Pricing advise E-Type

– [ From: David V. Kerner * EMC.Ver #2.5.1 ] –

I think I have looked at that car also. Blue and in Santa Cruz? I paid
almost that much for my 1969 2+2 eighteen years ago. The only negative
to the car is the automatic transmission. However, before I put my money
down, I would do a compression check on the engine.
Bud

From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 1996 06:23:08 +0100
Subject: Lindner/Nocker

[ “B. Askew” askewb@global.co.za ]
| >Anyone know of any good resources, books, websites, whatever, with info and
| >pictures of the Lindner/Nocker Lightweight ?
|
| I know of two good book references:
|
| Phillip Porter’s “E Type - the definitive history” Chapter 8
| Andrew Whyte’s “Jaguar Sports Racing and Competition Cars from 1954” Chapter 1
1

Also, Philip Porters “Jaguar sports racing cars” has some nice
material in it.

| Also Lynx Engineering in the UK make lightweight replicas, I think Porter
| says that they rebuilt the actual Linder/Nocker car.

That is correct. There are several companies in the UK building
complete Lightweights and parts. At the Spares Day at Stoneleigh
I was particularly impressed by the very nearly finished, unpainted
Lightweight body displayed by Dunford (www.jagweb.com/dunford).

Nick

<<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>>
<<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>>

The JagWeb http://www.sn.no/~nick/jaguar.html <<<

From: Stephan Perthes 100277.1037@CompuServe.COM
Date: 05 Nov 96 12:50:57 EST
Subject: Re: E-Type 2+2 S1 1966 Driving

Dennis:

What do you mean by “GT” ? Type/style of car ?

Noise: Don’t worry too much. Maybe the noise I have
in my car when driving on German Highways ( !! no speed limit !! )
is somethin’ else, compared to 55-65 mls in USA ;-))

In fact I tried my Jag up to abt. 120 mph (before restoration),
no problem at all. Of course with overall complete new brakes,
new wheels & tires etc.

But crusing at “US-speed” is much more comfortable, and less noisy …

6 to 12 cyl.: I only go for Series I. That’s the point for me.
I personally just don’t like the look of II or III, as they
are missing the most beautiful head- & taillights in the world …
Well, maybe a Series 1 1/2 would do, just in case there’s nothing
else around
And - as far as I know - the 6 cyl. should be much cheaper
in restoration, repair, fuel, oil etcpp. The 12 cyl. is said to be
smoother, and maybe not as “agressive” as the 6. In the end it’s a
matter of your own personal feeling (and your briefcase…)

Auto: I have a Mercedes Stationwagon with auto. So I’d decided to
look out for the “manual fun” with the E-Type, and it’s o.k. with me.
I had to change the clutch, that’s all so far.

Suspension: Sorry, I forgot to mention that I changed to KONI’s,
not because they are better (they are, in fact), more because the
old ones gave a feeling like driving in a French Citroen 2CV car
(gives you throw-ups in every curve, y’know).
With the KONI’s I changed to Pirelli 205/70 VR 15 6" => perfect
ride, perfect look. Smaller tires (185 VR 15) should be more “original”,
but this size (speed of more than 210 km/h = “VR”) results in extremely
high prices per tire overhere (Germany), and you have to wait for months
for new 185/VR if you’re unlucky. 205/70 VR 15 are available easily,
but they don’t fit to 5" wheels. You must have 6" or 6,5" (as far as
I know - sorry, I’m of course still a newbie after 14 months …)

Stephan.

----- Forwarded Message -----

TO: Stephan Perthes, 100277,1037
FROM: INTERNET:krupa@atcsrv.hanatc.akron.oh.us, INTERNET:krupa@atcsrv.hanatc.akron.oh.us
DATE: 05.11.1996, 16:31
From: krupa@atcsrv.hanatc.akron.oh.us
To: 100277.1037@compuserve.com
Subject: Re: E-Type 2+2 S1 1966 Driving

Stephan,

Your overview helps quite alot; In the future I’ll be looking for a GT and thought
the 2+2 configuration very practical. As far as noise - I think I’ll incorporate
state of the art sound deadening material throughout the cabin. This should bring the
sound levels to within a par of a modern sedan.

Engine wise I think I’ll be looking at the 6 cylinder unit - less complicated than
the 12, but I would like to mate a GM auto to it for better efficiency- something
like a GM 4 speed would be nice.

Suspension wise-I think Koni’s all around should provide a descent ride, and
something on the order of Pirelli 60 series tires in a HP all-season design, or maybe
Bridegestone’s.

Color wise I’m thinking burgundy with tan or black leather. And wires would be nice.

These are my thoughts right now.

I’ll keep you posted.

Dennis

From: “Graham, Bill” Bill.Graham@noaa.gov
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 96 12:53:11 EST
Subject: E-type front AMCO bars

The front overriders on our 68 E-type coupe have holes for the mounting of
an AMCO bar and front AMCO bars are available through various suppliers.
Yet I can’t find any pictures of Series one or two E-types with front AMCO
bars nor can I find any mention of front AMCO bars in my guide to E-type
restoration. Was a front AMCO bar required by U.S. safety regulations or
was it just a factory option? Anybody have some information?

Bill Graham
68 XKE Series 1 1/2 FHC (hers)
71 MGB rdstr (his)

From: theo bremner tbremner@lynx.dac.neu.edu
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 12:59:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: AC Compressor XJ6

Hello,

Does anyone know how the clutch assembly is removed from the AC

compressor (1985 xj6). It is a AC Delco Compressor from what I
understand and the clutch bearings are shot and I would like to remove it
without having to break the A/C lines and worry about recharging it for now
and as far as I know the compressor itself is ok just the bearings in
the clutch assembly are bad. Visibly from the front of the compressor there are
no screws or nuts any ideas on hot to remove this???

Thanks,
Theo
tbremner@lynx.neu.edu

From: jonathon@protech.com (Jonathon Shevelew)
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 1996 18:09:56 GMT
Subject: Re: XJS Conversion to Convertible

On Tue, 5 Nov 1996 19:32:27 +0200, you wrote:

Hi list-ers,

During idle moments I sometimes think about about buying
a 10 year old XJS cheap, cutting off the top and re-spraying
(as a ‘small’ hobby project), thus making a fine convertible.

Perhaps someone could tell me why this is such a bad idea.

Let’s start with ‘reduction of stiffness of monocoque’ …

Andy Reynolds
1985 XJ6

My guess would be that there would be some structural integrity
problems unless you beefed up the frame. Correct me if I’m wrong but
I thought that the convertible required some enhanced structure to
keep from bending.

Jonathon Shevelew
'95 XJ-S 4.0L Convertible
'93 VDP
'96 Explorer (something for the kids to dirty up)
jonathon@protech.com

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 19:39:20 +0100 (MET)
Subject: engine heater/crankshaft nut size

I’m currently in the US and one thing I bought is an engine heater which
goes into the lower radiator hose. The dealers ref book did not list Jaguar,
but my jag spare catalogue lists such a heater (for the North American market),
so I guess it should be safe to install.

Has anyone experience with the heaters ? I mainly bought it too reduce
cold fuel consumption and engine wear. Comments ?

And if some kind soul could point out to me the size of the crankshaft
bolt on a V12. I plan to buy theright socket

Thanks in advance

- Matthias

From: hdrsons@iamerica.net (Hal Rogers)
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 1996 13:56:05 -0700
Subject: Re: Protective Door Side Mouldings

I too am very interested in the protective side mouldings at the middle of
the door on my 88 XJ-40. The steel mount for the rubber strip has cracked
and also tarnished. If it is not origional Jaguar equipment, where can I get
this stuff???

Paul Lacey

-------------------------- [Original Message] -------------------------

Hi all!,
Just curious about the door side mouldings on Jaguars. I have seen
many XJ40’s all with different side mouldings. I like the one that goes on
the bottom line of the door (not in the middle of the door), it is about 3/4
inch thick black plastic, and above it has a tiny chrome strip to accent the
black moulding. It is very similar to the X300 style mouldings (just not
painted and color matched).
Weird thing is that I have seen them on SOME XJ40’s AND XJS’s (must be
aftermarket if they can work on the coupe AND sedan), they seem to have been
cut by the installer and are very preventive to stop door dings.
I wish I could give a better description, but no one I talked to has a
listing for any side mouldings for the XJ40. Any idea where to get them?
Or know what I’m talking about??

Thanks,
Eric
1989 XJ40 VDP

As I am told from a dealer source, the XJ40, at least earlier years, may
have a Jaguar moulding kit installed…that is chrome and black
moulding…that approximately extends the line of the bumper (low). Some
dealers also contracted out to various trim installers for a “mid” line
look. Some of these add ons were even color coordinated and had adhesive
backing.

The VDP had a chrome factory moulding that is still available on a piece by
piece basis.

The black and chrome kit is still available $101.95 Jaguar retail. I can do
slightly better on this. Takes about 3 days to supply.

If you have the mid line moulding, best bet is to remove entirely and start
over, matching is almost impossible.

Regards,
Hal

Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
Import Auto Specialists
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax

Serving Auto Enthusiasts since 1959

From: BSherw@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 13:50:01 -0500
Subject: Re: SIII engine no start

Andrew Sandiforth acer@serv.net wrote:

Tonight the motor cut out in heavy trafic and resisted
all attempts to restart.
Plugs are getting good spark
(When running the car is smooth and powerful)

Andrew-
It wasn’t clear from your post whether the plugs were getting good
spark when the car wouldn’t start, or when it was smooth and powerful.
Ignition coils on these cars are notorious for going dead when warmed
up- after they cool, they begin to work again (sometimes).
Are you sure the engine is getting spark, at the moment it won’t start?

Good luck-
Brian Sherwood
'84 XJ-S, '85 XJ6

From: Marshall Hollister-Jones marshall@mentor.co.nz
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 07:39:57 +1300
Subject: Re: Protective Door Side Mouldings

My XJ-40 has side mouldings which look like an original jaguar part - at
least they are stamped with ‘Jaguar’ + cat logo.

From: cobac@ix.netcom.com
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Protective Door Side Mouldings
Date: Tuesday, 5 November 1996 12:58

Hi all!,
Just curious about the door side mouldings on Jaguars. I have seen
many XJ40’s all with different side mouldings. I like the one that goes
on
the bottom line of the door (not in the middle of the door), it is about
3/4
inch thick black plastic, and above it has a tiny chrome strip to accent
the
black moulding. It is very similar to the X300 style mouldings (just not
painted and color matched).
Weird thing is that I have seen them on SOME XJ40’s AND XJS’s (must be
aftermarket if they can work on the coupe AND sedan), they seem to have
been
cut by the installer and are very preventive to stop door dings.
I wish I could give a better description, but no one I talked to has a
listing for any side mouldings for the XJ40. Any idea where to get them?
Or know what I’m talking about??

Thanks,
Eric
1989 XJ40 VDP

From: armsco@primenet.com (Michael)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 12:20:31 -0700 (MST)
Subject: XJ-S Starting problem

John:

I had a near identical problem. It turned out that the ECU was not sending a
cold start signal to one bank of cylinders. That is, only one bank of
cylinders was firing until the engine warmed up enough that the cold start
circuit was not needed. Replaced the ECU and problem was solved.

Michael

P.S. Welsh Jaguar had a good price on a rebuilt ECU

From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 12:32:23 MDT
Subject: Re: engine heater/crankshaft nut size

Matthias wrote:

I’m currently in the US and one thing I bought is an engine heater which
goes into the lower radiator hose. The dealers ref book did not list Jaguar,
but my jag spare catalogue lists such a heater (for the North American market),
so I guess it should be safe to install.

Not necessarily so. As you likely know, the us standard is 110 V and
not 220 V like in eurpoe. Most, if not all, of these heaters in the
US are made for this standard. THe 220 V will surely provide and
expensive meltdown. You could buy a convertor but I
imagine that this is already too expensive. Besides, having lived in
France and now live in the frozen tundra of the US rockies, 99% of
the places in France are really too warm for an engine heater to be
much use. My experience with them is that as temperatures approach

-30 C, they are useful since the increased temperature allows the
engine to crank over faster since the oil is much warmer. In
moderate climes such as France, you would merely delete about 3-4
minutes from the warmup cycle. I’d reccomend against it in your
case. For what its worth.

Kind Regards,

Jim Cantrell

From: RDIAZ@maila.harris.com (RDIAZ)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 14:20:05 -0500
Subject: XJ40 Sun Roof rubber seal

 Does anyone know of a "reasonable" way to replace 
 the sunroof rubber seal on a 1990 XJ6 (XJ40)?  Mine
 is leaking air and therefore makes a whistling noise
 while on the road.
 
 Any help / adivse is greately appreciated!
 
 Ricardo Diaz
 rdiaz@harris.com
 <end>

From: cobac@ix.netcom.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 11:54:52 -0800
Subject: XJ40: Bulb Failure / Trunk Moisture

Hi gang!,
No, I don’t have a bulb failure “problem” to bore you all with.
However, I may have found a cause as to the reason for the past failures on
my car.
About three months ago, the bulb failure would light up intermittent and
frequently. So, I changed all bulbs, checked the modules with a voltmeter
and found the two rear modules were giving false notification of blown
bulbs. I then removed the two rear modules, opened them up, and found
slight corrosion and rust inside the modules on the circuitry. Then I wire
brushed them, cleaned, inspected, and reinstalled. Now, I had VERY frequent
failures (usually at night). I said I would live with it.
Also, the gasket for the antenna was leaking water in the boot, so I
later fixed that, dried the boot out, and no more leakage. Then I installed
Mildew Odor controlling moisture absorbing bags, from the local boat store.
Now, the trunk is VERY dry and smells like it. And also, I haven’t had a
bulb failure for over three months!! (Better not speak so soon!
I always wondered why the rear modules always seem to go on the cars,
maybe leaking boots (also common) screw up the modules, causing them to show
false impressions? Maybe just like blown rear struts can cause subsequent
‘other’ problems.

It just seemed wierd to me, and worthy of being shared with others who have
the same problem. I guess electricity (modules) and water (from leaking
boot), don’t mix!

Cheers,
Eric
1989 XJ40-VDP

From: “KENNETH M GILSON” kgilson@ccmail.unl.edu
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 96 14:14:23 CST
Subject: E-type noise

I am currently restoring a '64 XKE OTS and a 57 T- Bird and both cars
have a space in the inner and outer rocker panels. For noise level
control should I fill both with liquid foam insulation or leave it as it
was designed? The foam will be fairly rigid after it sets up, but will
it cause a noise when driving? any thoughts?

From: hdrsons@iamerica.net (Hal Rogers)
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 1996 15:53:51 -0700
Subject: Re: E-type front AMCO bars

At 12:53 PM 11/5/96 EST, Graham, Bill wrote:

The front overriders on our 68 E-type coupe have holes for the mounting of
an AMCO bar and front AMCO bars are available through various suppliers.
Yet I can’t find any pictures of Series one or two E-types with front AMCO
bars nor can I find any mention of front AMCO bars in my guide to E-type
restoration. Was a front AMCO bar required by U.S. safety regulations or
was it just a factory option? Anybody have some information?

Bill Graham
68 XKE Series 1 1/2 FHC (hers)
71 MGB rdstr (his)

I am not aware of any AMCO bar being required for safety reasons.

Regards,
Hal

Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
Import Auto Specialists
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax

Serving Auto Enthusiasts since 1959

From: “Himes,John W.” jwh@mime.dw.lucent.com
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 96 14:08:00 PST
Subject: my XJ-S Mileage & Location of fuel cutoff switch

On my 88 5.3L (326CI) US spec V12 operating 5000 - 6000 feet above sea lvl
on 87 octane ( oxygenated ) fuel, I am currently getting about 15 mpg all
around according to the trip computer & my manual calculations. Pure
highway driving is 18 - 19 mpg. My daily commute is about 30 miles round
trip 1/2 time highway, 1/2 time city. ( 2/3 miles on highway ) I do use the
engine to get me up to speed and to pass on the highway ( 75 - 80 mph with
allowable traffic & weather ). I have also modified my air intakes by
cutting off the horns & the plate they mounted opening up the entire front
end of the cover. This means a little more air in & more fuel consumption
for a little more power.

The fuel cutoff switch on the XJ-S is the black box mounted just inside the
drivers door next to the dash, This is a centrifugal switch that is intended
to turn off fuel flow on a hard impact. You can manually activate it by
pulling up on the round black button on the top. This exposes a red painted
shaft that indicates the fuel is cut off. If you are going to use as a
theft preventative measure, either hope the thief does not know about it (
takes less then a second to push down ) or can not see it or knows what the
little red post is for.

John Himes
98K Miles

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #496

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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 6 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 497

Re: SIII engine cut out/no start
INTRODUCTION
E-type front AMCO bars
Re: Lindner/Nocker
XJ6 SIII Rack Bush Question (simple!)
Re: electrical ghosts
new owner questions
Re: XJS Fuel Smell
Re: XJ40: Bulb Failure / Trunk Moisture
[SIII XJ6] near dead cat update
Re: Another dead cat (XJ6)
Re: XJ6 3.2 Diamond Jubilee Edition?
Re: XJ6 Steering Wheel
E-type update and question (long)
Re: XJ6 3.2 Diamond Jubilee Edition?
Re: E-type front AMCO bars
Re: E-type noise
Heat for an E-Type
Re: my XJ-S Mileage & Location of fuel cutoff switch

From: Derek Hibbs Derek.Hibbs@wizardis.com.au
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 08:31:52 +1100
Subject: Re: SIII engine cut out/no start

Andrew Sandiforth>>>I wrote before looking for some help on intermittant
engine >cut outs after it wouldn’t start. Tonight the motor cut out in
heavy trafic >and resisted all attempts to restart.

Symptoms:
Fuel is definately getting to the fuel rail
Plugs are getting good spark
(When running the car is smooth and powerful)
Has new cap, rotor, plugs and wires
The motor turns over fine put doesn’t catch
Plugs are dry

What are the chances of it being the following:

Air flow meter switch?
??

Power resister
If this means ballast resister, then no because the engine would fire and
die almost immediately.

Ignition amplifier
No, you said you have good spark. When mine died I had zero spark.

Thermotine switch (The boot is brittled and cracked, but the wires are ok)
??
ECU or ECU temp sensor
??
Defective cold start relay
No, you said the plugs are dry. Poor cold starts if inoperative or flooding
is stuck open.

Auxillary air valve
No, if stuck open then poor running warm else if closed then poor running cold.

Relay assembly (by the battery)
Maybe, sounds feasible.

Andrew,
These are my humble opinions from a limited but testing time with my XJS.

regards
Derek Hibbs

Derek Hibbs
77 XJ-S

“Even when it’s broken, my XJ-S still looks great sitting in the garage.”

Wizard Information Services Pty Ltd
Canberra, Australia
Ph: 616 2750750
Fax: 616 2750777
Email: Derek.Hibbs@wizardis.com.au
WWW: http://wizardis.com.au/~derekh

From: digs@gradymccauley.com (Digital Imaging)
Date: 05 Nov 1996 20:40:06 GMT
Subject: INTRODUCTION

Hello Everyone,
My name is Phil Lawrence, I live near Massillon, Ohio (about 30 miles south
of Akron_at one time the “rubber capitol of the world”).
I have a '54 MG TF,'68 SAAB 95 and a '62 Jag OTS. Thanks to several of you,
Inow know what OTS means! I Guess a true roadster does’nt have roll down
windows eh wot?.. The Jag has flat floors but does not have welded bonnet
louvers. As far as I can tell this was the 524th OTS built. Has the bonnet
been replaced or was the cut off point for welded louvers before this? I’ve
pretty much got the mechanicals restored except for a leaking transmission
front seal that I don’t plan to repair until I pull the car apart for body
and paint restoration! The old Moss gearbox has a baulky 2nd gear syncro that
also needs attention as well. What kind of a job/expense is it to install an
all syncro box from a later model?
The Cat is great fun to drive and maintain. My ONLY complaint is the lack of
driver room/comfort for my 6’3" frame…impossible to take long trips
without lower back pain! (those seats must have been designed by the Marquis
de Sade!) The TF is just as bad, but I have no desire to drive it any great
distance.

Best wishes to one and all,

Phil

From: “Robert A. Bagramian” robtbagr@umich.edu
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 96 17:31:48 -0400
Subject: E-type front AMCO bars

To Bill Graham’s question about front AMCO bars for E-types… As the
original owner of a 70 E-type these were not required by US safety
regulations and also were not factory options… They were an after
market add on…
Bob Bagramian… 70 E-type coupe (original owner)

From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 17:41:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Lindner/Nocker

On Nov 5, 6:23am, Nick Johannessen wrote:

Subject: Lindner/Nocker

That is correct. There are several companies in the UK building
complete Lightweights and parts. At the Spares Day at Stoneleigh
I was particularly impressed by the very nearly finished, unpainted
Lightweight body displayed by Dunford (www.jagweb.com/dunford).

Nick

Have you guys seen the Lightweight that Robert Sarrailh built (in France)?
There were a couple articles in recent issues of Jaguar World Magz. of this
car. It makes my mouth wet. It was reported as a Lindner/Nocker replica but is
actually a CUT 7 type body - similar to the Lindner car but actually much nicer
aestheticly(rear window different, no overly wide wheel arches). RS Panels
built the body for Sarrailh (who is also making repro alloy 3.8 blocks). I
thought this was interesting since RS Panels restored CUT 7 a few years ago -
they must have made patterns off the car. Sarrailh’s car has 4 head lamps like
the Lindner car but the rest is all CUT 7. The car is just perfect! It is in
vol.8, number4 of J.W. If I had the $$$ for a Lightweight (I don’t) I would
want RS panels to do the body.

Mark McChesney
'65 Etype ots

From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 15:04:19 -0800 (PST)
Subject: XJ6 SIII Rack Bush Question (simple!)

How many bushings are required to rebush the rack? I bought 2, plus 4 end
washers, but it looks like it may need 3 sets. If not, what happens to the
upper bolt?
Thanks!
Hunt

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 6 Nov 96 9:50:06
Subject: Re: electrical ghosts

Sounds like the classical hanging wire loop, Julian. Side g makes it flop over
and “make” the circuit. I take it from your description that your model has a
timer on the map reading lights; an instantaneous short could operate it. I’d
suggest opening up top the under-dash space and gently waggling every dangling
wire loop…

-Jan

From: graziott@ix.netcom.com
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 1996 19:02:33 -0800
Subject: new owner questions

As a new Jaguar owner I have some questions that are a mystery to me. I have a 1985
XJ6 S3, I don’t know what options were ordered originally or were standard and do not
work now.

Did all these cars come with electric antennas? Should the interior lights dim when you
shut the door? Is there a chime or buzzer for the key? If these things are bad, were are
they located?

The gauges, trip computer, push buttons and auto transmission gear letter light up in my
car but nothing else. Should there be more? What does the optical unit supply light for?

The A/C seems to vent: 60% to the defrost vents, 30% to the floor and 10% to the dash
vents. Is this normal? Is there a way to change it?

One last question: The power plug for the radio has a hot wire, a switched hot wire, a
ground, a dash light wire and a mystery wire. I believe its white and may be for the
electric antenna. Does anyone know the color code?

Thank You for any help you can give…Michael

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 6 Nov 96 10:07:21
Subject: Re: XJS Fuel Smell

Firstly, Sang, any fuel smell in a V12 is a five-bell alarm and DON’T DRIVE IT
until the problem is fixed. The reason is that if you have a severe leak on top
of the engine, the fuel pools in the valley and you have a serious fire
hazard as the engine heat boils it and fills the engine bay with an explosive
vapour mixture. The first thing to do is to open up the bonnet and turn on the
ignition two- three times (but don’t start the engine) to pressurise the
injection system. Now inspect the 20-odd bits of hose in the injection system,
and if one is wet, tighten its screw clamp(s). If they’re the crappy original
Jaguar pattern (sheet metal loop, screw and nut) they can bottom out and fail
to seal. Get the normal “Jubilee” type hose clip instead, preferably stainless
as you can tighten those harder without stripping them.

Once everything is OK on the engine, check the supply and return pipes all the
way to the tank, If they’re OK, the only other possibility I have come across
is the vent system running over - but that’s on an XJ and I don’t know if the
XJS is prone to that. Symptom: puddle under the charcoal canister. The cause is
usually overfilling with cold fuel on a hot day, which then fills the vent
system as it warms and expands. On the XJ, the vent system can act as a siphon
because it ends at a level below the top of the fuel tank - especially if you
park nose down on a hill…

P.S>: noticed your Internet address - “sango” is Australian slang for sandwich.
Just thought it might amuse you… :3+)

-Jan

From: cobac@ix.netcom.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 16:35:05 -0800
Subject: Re: XJ40: Bulb Failure / Trunk Moisture

At 12:34 PM 11/6/96 +1300, you wrote:

Hi, I am new to Jag ownership, with an '87 XJ40 Sovereign. I posted a
little while ago about the Bulb Failure problem and have worked through the
system replacing all bulbs and a rusted right front fender lamp fitting. I
now conclude that one of the sensors is faulty. Would you mind telling me
which wires I test to see which sensor is faulty??? ( I suspect it is left
rear )

Hi,
Welcome to the Jaguar family! I found the information in the archives of
the WWW Jag-lovers site. Here is portion of the letter:

May 7, 1994

“The way the bulb fail light comes on when one of the units is triggered.
They are triggered by a change of resistance in the circuit… There are 3
failure circuits, general, left and right. The general tracks the exterior
lighting circuit except for the turn signals. The turn signal circuits are
divided into the left and the right side of the car.
To diagnose the general circuit (exterior lamps), backprobe the PINK and
SLATE wire at the vehicle harness side yellow (or black) connector at any
one of the bulb fail modules. When any one of the modules fail the voltage
drop to 0.5VDC or ground. Disconnect/Connect each module until you can find
which one is causing the failure. NOTE: when any module is unplugged it will
trigger the failure light.
To check turn signals, monitor the voltage on the pink and green wire on
the right and pink and red wire on the left. Check these the same way as
the general circuit.”

I hope this helps a little, it is a little confusing at first, but you will
understand what was said when you see the wiring in person. I tried to
condense the letter a little, you can get the full letter from the archives
(May 7, 1994 I believe). If you need any other info, let me know.

Cheers,
Eric
cobac@ix.netcom.com
1989 XJ40-VDP

From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 01:58:45 +0100 (MET)
Subject: [SIII XJ6] near dead cat update

Folks,

Today I’m tremendously relieved. The insurance company agreed to repair
the car for the intitial price bid of the Jaguar dealer. This means that
I get Alexandra back and hopefully professionally repaired without any
cutting of corners (that is, cutting of corners in order to reduce the
repair costs so that the insurance company would accept them).

As to Baards comments about tires I think all I’ll say is that he’s of
course right in saying that good tires are extremely important on any car.
Mine were Pirelli P5s in 205/70-15 size and looked OK threadwear-wise. I’ll
check them when I get the car back to see how old they are.

Thanks to all you good Jag Lovers who sent me encouraging words! I was
feeling very low and it really helped. Really. Now I’m happier and looking
forward to getting “Her Ladyship” back in a few months time. I miss her…

Gunnar

From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 02:06:38 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: Another dead cat (XJ6)

“John Littler” auibmdak@ibmmail.com wrote:

Never let it be said an XJ6 won’t corner

It corners alright! It also gives fair warning before it slips. Just beware
that when it slips it really slides, always remember the bit about the two
tonnes and the laws of nature.

Gunnar

From: Fei Chun Ma m956337@umacsn1.umac.mo
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 09:18:22 +0800 (HKT)
Subject: Re: XJ6 3.2 Diamond Jubilee Edition?

Hello Charles Daly

On Tue, 5 Nov 1996, charles daly wrote:

Hi Patrick,
It looks like no one replied to you, so I am doing so,
just so you don’t think we are rude!
I’ve never heard of the Diamond Jubilee Edition since
I am into older jags but I will try to find out for you.
Mail me please, if you get a good response so I will
stop looking!
Good luck,
Thanks very much for your mail, indeed, I know the Jaguars here in
Macau is completely different from where the people in this list…
As, the weather in Macau is so humid that Jaguar producer must do some
implementation before they can open the saling market in Macau (Far East
Asia.)
Till now, I haven’t received any repling mail, so, pls continue to look
the information for me…

BTW, may I ask another question?
I notice that there are two type of colors of the “jaguar” on the bonnet,
either gold or silver, which color refers to as the latest version of
Jaguar?
REgards,
Ma Fei Chun, Patrick
XJ6 in Macau.

From: Fei Chun Ma m956337@umacsn1.umac.mo
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 09:29:01 +0800 (HKT)
Subject: Re: XJ6 Steering Wheel

Hello Hal Rogers,

On Tue, 5 Nov 1996, Hal Rogers wrote:

Patrick,
I saw your note about the wood steering wheels. What year is your Jaguar
XJ6? I do not believe that a wood steering wheel was made or sold by Jaguar
but I may be able to get a wood steering wheel made by another company to
fit your Jaguar.
My father bought this new Jaguar two days before, and now we have only
driven that for 1 time.
The seller told us that this version of XJ6 is the Diamond Jubilee Edition…
There is no main different in the exterior, the version changes the
Interior’s steering wheel to half wooden, wooden display board, and
with wooden trimmed on the doors.

I surfed in many jaguar homepage and didn’t find any information of this
car…
The seller told me that this Version were only sold in Asia Pacific.

					REgards,
					Ma Fei Chun, Patrick.
					XJ6, Macau.

From: Brian Chase btc00@eng.amdahl.com
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 1996 17:29:57 -0800
Subject: E-type update and question (long)

Jag-lovers:

Here’s an update on my project, along with a couple of questions…

As many of you old-timers may know, I’ve been working on restoring my
'66 4.2 E-type OTS since I acquired it in July of 1994. Bodywork and
paint have been complete for well over a year, and since then I’ve been
re-assembling the car. This part of the project has taken much longer
than I anticipated - due, I’m afraid, to the fact that I’m not paying
anyone to get it done!

The engine went in last December, but my friend and I just got around
to starting it a couple of weekends ago (for the first time - my
purchase was a basket case, though the engine appeared to have been
completely rebuilt).

After completing the installation of new wiring, reconditioned
instruments, fuel line, new fuel pump, ignition parts, and all the
incidentals, we were ready to try an electrical check before the big
moment. We connected the battery carefully with no sparks or smoke - so
far so good. Basic lighting checks proceeded well until I tried the
turn signal… after flashing three times it stopped, and smoke began
rising from the vicinity of the flasher. Upon further examination, it
turned out (no pun intended) that, although the manufacturer of my
replacement signal assembly used all the right colored wires, three of
them were in incorrect positions! So much for connecting the wires by
color . A new flasher appears to work now that the switch is
connected correctly (at least I was able to use my electrical
engineering background for some part of this project!).

Adding fluids to the car produced the requisite puddles: coolant,
fuel, and oil all had leaks. A one-week delay was inserted here while
I ordered and received a new header tank and fuel sump. We did run
the starter a few times with the spark plugs out to try and pump up
some oil.

The next weekend we fitted the new parts and dealt with a few new
leaks (re-tightened fuel fittings, put gasket sealer on the thermostat
gasket, etc.). Finally, there was no more putting it off - I pushed the
starter button and the engine ROARED TO LIFE! I have to say I was a
little surprised, even though logically there was no reason why it
shouldn’t have worked. I had never touched the triple carb setup, as
it had been rebuilt before I purchased the car, so I guess I was lucky
in that regard. We let it run for about 10 seconds, then stopped to
look around…

Uh, oh, there was what appeared to be water dripping out the intake
openings of all 3 carbs! What the ??!! Had we already blown a
gasket or precipitated some other disaster? To make matters worse,
when we got to looking under the car, there was a lot more water on the
floor - coming from the joints in the exhaust system. (This is where
Ryan would insert the Pop Quiz).

I was ready to panic, but my friend got me calmed down. After
thinking about the situation for a minute, we identified the problem:
I had switched the two hoses coming off the back of the intake
manifold: one was the heater water return line, while the other
provided vacuum to the brake system. With the heater valve open, we
were dumping water directly into the intake ports! Though the outside
parts of these fittings are different, the threaded portions are
identical, allowing the Current Owner to screw them up.

We soaked up all the water we could, then swapped the fittings/hoses
and restarted… this time there was no water (though we got a lot of
steam from the exhaust system for a while). It actually idles pretty
well, though it sounds best when you goose the throttle a bit! I am
currently getting some overflow from the center carb… something to
look into. I changed the oil and filter as well after the previous
adventure.

Now that the engine is running, the next task will be adding fluids to
the brake and clutch systems. Here’s where my question comes in: I
recall a discussion of “bench-bleeding” the brake (and clutch?) master
cylinder… what is this procedure and is it required, or does it
simply make the rest of the job easier/faster?

Thanks for any info you can provide…

Regards,

Brian

Brian Chase '66 E-type OTS (7/94 to present)
Amdahl Corp. '85 XJ6 (8/96 to present)
Sunnyvale, CA, USA btc00@eng.amdahl.com

From: Fei Chun Ma m956337@umacsn1.umac.mo
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 09:39:36 +0800 (HKT)
Subject: Re: XJ6 3.2 Diamond Jubilee Edition?

Hello John Littler,

On Tue, 5 Nov 1996, John Littler wrote:

Patrick
I doubt it’s much help but it’s probably a special edition released to
coincide with Queen ElizabethII’s (england) 50th year in power. The only
strange thing is you’ve identified it as a 3.2 - from memory the diamond
jubilee was '86 - a 3.2 would be an XJ40 or newer (xj6 series 3 were
3.4 or 4.2 or 6.0 litre (xj12) motors). I actually thought the XJ40’s
had the choice of 2.8 3.4 and 4.0 - but I could be wrong on that. What
does it look like ? Specifically year model,head light shape,
Hmm that’s not very clear if you don’t know the models - 86 was the last
Series 3 XJ6 (they made Series 3 V12’s up to 92. So a model newer than
86 that is a 6 cylinder has to be an XJ40 or X300.
That Jaguar sure is XJ6, as there is a label at the rear of that car…
And I noticed from one of the Jaguar home page that there really was a
celebration for the 60th anniversary of Jaguar last year, and in UK,
Jaguar celebrated this by opening an exhibition called “Diamond Jubilee
Exhibition”.
Also from that homepage, I notice that there are 3 series of XJ6, the
latest version is 1988, in series of XJ6 offer 2.6 and 3.? (I forgot).
and in 1990, the series is upgraded to 3.2 and 4.0…
So, I believe that my Jaguar is from 1990. But I don’t if there really a
Diamond Jubilee version…

I doubt that’s really a lot of help… but anyway !!!
John
Nah… You really help me a lots because now I know Jaguar more…

PS what country is com.mo ?
mo refers to Macau (very close to Hong Kong).

				Regards,
				Ma Fei Chun, Patrick
				XJ6, Macau.

From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 20:51:51 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: E-type front AMCO bars

Bill:

I think it was a dealer installed option or aftermarket item. Definitely
n_o_t installed to comply with US regs. There are some photos in Haddock on
p 98-99.

Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2

At 12:53 PM 11/5/96 EST, you wrote:

The front overriders on our 68 E-type coupe have holes for the mounting of
an AMCO bar and front AMCO bars are available through various suppliers.
Yet I can’t find any pictures of Series one or two E-types with front AMCO
bars nor can I find any mention of front AMCO bars in my guide to E-type
restoration. Was a front AMCO bar required by U.S. safety regulations or
was it just a factory option? Anybody have some information?

Bill Graham
68 XKE Series 1 1/2 FHC (hers)
71 MGB rdstr (his)

From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 20:51:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: E-type noise

Kenneth:

The E-Type is a moderately noisy car by nature. However, driven at normal
highway speed (65 and under), there is really no problem. And if you indulge
in more spirited driving, then the odds are you will enjoy the sound. I used
to have headers on mine which made the noise unbearable, but a standard
exhaust should be quite nice. If you want to build a sound insulation
system, concentrate on the floors and kick panels, following the route of
the exhaust system.

Using liquid foam insulation is a generally bad idea in any application.
There is no way to verify that the foam fills all the spaces, and it may
separate from the metal over time. Any moisture which works in or condenses
will have difficulty evaporating, promoting rust. This is why the stuff is
no longer popular for home use: inability to retrofit proper vapor barriers
causes moisture to be trapped in the foam, eventually causing rot.

If you really want to do this, try it on the Ford first ;-).

Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2

At 02:14 PM 11/5/96 CST, you wrote:

I am currently restoring a '64 XKE OTS and a 57 T- Bird and both cars
have a space in the inner and outer rocker panels. For noise level
control should I fill both with liquid foam insulation or leave it as it
was designed? The foam will be fairly rigid after it sets up, but will
it cause a noise when driving? any thoughts?

From: “Robert J. Richardson” rrichardson@eurekanet.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 21:05:53 -0500
Subject: Heat for an E-Type

I had to stop work on my master cylinder installations on my E-Type because
of the cold weather here in Ohio. I need to buy some kind of a space heater
for my unheated garage so I can continue the installation. Can anyone
recommend a “safe” heater? I’m a little concerned about an open flame
because of possible gasolene fumes building up. What kind of heater would
perform best and with the greatest safety in my one-car (small) garage?

From: mkenrick@golder.com (Michael Kenrick)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 18:11:43 -0800
Subject: Re: my XJ-S Mileage & Location of fuel cutoff switch

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John Himes tells all:

The fuel cutoff switch on the XJ-S is the black box mounted just inside
the drivers door next to the dash, This is a centrifugal switch that is
intended to turn off fuel flow on a hard impact. You can manually activate
it by pulling up on the round black button on the top. This exposes a red
painted shaft that indicates the fuel is cut off. If you are going to use
as a theft preventative measure, either hope the thief does not know about
it ( takes less then a second to push down ) or can not see it or knows what
the little red post is for.

 Great!  That was our little secret, and now everyone knows.  So much 
 for a nice elegant and very subtle security device which is now common 
 knowledge.  If my Red Jag is stolen, you may be hearing from my 
 attorney, Mr Himes.
 
 Michael Kenrick

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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 6 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 498

Re: Engine cc formula
Starting an E-type mail list
Re[2]: Engine cc formula
Re: Engine cc formula
Re: SIII engine cut out/no start
Re[2]: SIII EFI fuel pumps, general questio
Re: E-type front AMCO bars
Re: XJS Conversion to Convertible
'65 3.8 ‘S’ type wiring
1983 XJ6 S3: Are Smiths and Veliga Volt Meters Interchangeable?
Re: Starting an E-type mail list
Re: 85 XJS HE Alternator
rE: u jOINTS…
Re: was another dead cat (XJ6), now XJ Driving Pleasure
[none]
Engine noise
Andrew Weinberg
Re: XJ6 Steering Wheel

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 18:59:57 -0600
Subject: Re: Engine cc formula

 Because your stroke isn't 19.68mm.
 
 I don't know what it is on a 3.8, but it must be around 64 or 65mm if 
 your 87mm bore number is correct.
 
 Garbage in, garbage out . . .
 
 MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Engine cc formula
Author: rrichardson@eurekanet.com (Robert J. Richardson) at Internet
Date: 11/3/1996 9:03 PM

I use the following formula for arriving at the displacement in cubic
inches of a particular engine: bore in inches squared X 0.7854 X stroke X
number of cylinders= total cubic inch displacement. For a Series 1 E-Type I
get an answer of 250 cubic inches (rounded to the nearest whole number).
But when I apply the
metric measurements using this same formula-
87 mm (bore) X 0.7854 X 19.68 (stroke) X 6-I don’t get 3800 cubic centimeters.
Can anyone clear this up for me? I got the formula out of my Jaguar Service
Manual for the 3.8 Series 1 E-Type.

From: George Cohn gwcohn@azstarnet.com
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 1996 20:08:52 -0800
Subject: Starting an E-type mail list

OK guys, heres the deal, every once in a while the subject comes up of
splitting the list and there hundreds of messages pro and con. I enjoy
reading about all Jags but I would like a place where all of us E owners
can roll in ecstacy without boring the others to death. I have checked
with my internet service provider and I can set up a mailing list with
majordomo service for free! If some of the E owners are interested in
this supplemental mailing list, drop me a note and if there is
sufficient interest (maybe 10 people) we can just do it!

GW Cohn
'70 E-OTS

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 13:02:45 -0600
Subject: Re[2]: Engine cc formula

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Actually, there’s nothing wrong with his formula for displacement.

pir^2 = 0.7854d^2

Since engine specs are typically bore diameter instead of radius,
using bore * bore * stroke * 0.7854 * cyls is an easy shortcut. I
remember seeing it 25 years ago when I worked as a mechanic, so it
isn’t anything new.

Try this for my E-Type:

Bore = 3.54" (89.92mm), Stroke = 2.76" (70.10mm)

(89.92/2) * (89.92/2) * 3.1416 * 70.1 * 12 =
6350.435 * 70.1 * 12 = 5343cc

or

89.92 * 89.92 * 0.7854 * 70.1 * 12 =
6350.435 * 70.1 * 12 = 5343cc

He made two mistakes. First his stroke is wrong (unless the 3.8 has a
VERY short stroke!) Second, he didn’t follow his own formula. He
used bore, not bore squared.

Assuming that it is really 3800cc (3,000,000 mm^3), then

((3,800,000 / 6) / (87 * 87)) / 0.7854 = 106.5 mm

or, if you prefer

((3,800,000 / 6) / (43.5 * 43.5)) / 3.1516 = 106.5 mm

MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine cc formula
Author: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net at Internet
Date: 11/4/1996 12:38 AM

I use the following formula for arriving at the displacement in cubic
inches of a particular engine: bore in inches squared X 0.7854 X stroke X
number of cylinders= total cubic inch displacement.

I have no idea what that formula is for. It cetainly isn’t a displacement
formula. You want to figure out the swept volume of a cylinder, then multiply
it by the number of cylinders. The basic formula for a cylinder is:

pi x r^2 x Length

So, for engine displacement, using normal published bore and stroke specs,
this would be:

pi x (bore/2)^2 x Stroke x cylinders = displacement.

 <snip>

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

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From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
To: jag jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Re: Engine cc formula
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 1996 00:38:42 -0500 (EST)
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From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 14:20:55 -0600
Subject: Re: Engine cc formula

 Speaking of garbage . . . 
 
 The stroke would be over 100mm, not 64 or 65.  <sigh>
 
 Also, while you correctly stated the formula as:
 
   bore * bore * 0.7854 * stroke * cylinders,
 
 you didn't square the bore in your metric equation
 
 
 MikeC

______________________________ Forward Header __________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine cc formula
Author: Mike Cogswell at ZDS_FEDS
Date: 11/4/1996 6:59 PM

 Because your stroke isn't 19.68mm.
 
 I don't know what it is on a 3.8, but it must be around 64 or 65mm if 
 your 87mm bore number is correct.
 
 Garbage in, garbage out . . .
 
 MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Engine cc formula
Author: rrichardson@eurekanet.com (Robert J. Richardson) at Internet
Date: 11/3/1996 9:03 PM

I use the following formula for arriving at the displacement in cubic
inches of a particular engine: bore in inches squared X 0.7854 X stroke X
number of cylinders= total cubic inch displacement. For a Series 1 E-Type I
get an answer of 250 cubic inches (rounded to the nearest whole number).
But when I apply the
metric measurements using this same formula-
87 mm (bore) X 0.7854 X 19.68 (stroke) X 6-I don’t get 3800 cubic centimeters.
Can anyone clear this up for me? I got the formula out of my Jaguar Service
Manual for the 3.8 Series 1 E-Type.

From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 20:50:42 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: SIII engine cut out/no start

Last weekend I replaced the coolant temp sensor, cleaned the leads and
checked the ground. I also went over every connection I could find and
insured good contacts.

Symptoms:
Fuel is definately getting to the fuel rail
Plugs are getting good spark
(When running the car is smooth and powerful)
Has new cap, rotor, plugs and wires
The motor turns over fine put doesn’t catch
Plugs are dry

What are the chances of it being the following:

Air flow meter switch?

Fuel pump would not run in “engine running” mode. The pump would still work
while cranking. Symptoms are start, then die. (and the answer to the question
I posted last weekend.

Power resister

Possible, but I have never seen on fail.

Ignition amplifier

Not if you have a good hot spark at the plugs.

Thermotine switch (The boot is brittled and cracked, but the wires are ok)

Stuck open, hard cold start. Stuck closed, flooding during warm start. NO
effect on a running engine. Circuit is only energized with the starter.

ECU or ECU temp sensor

ECU. possibly. What is an ECU temp sensor?

Defective cold start relay

See thermo-time switch

Auxillary air valve

No effect. this is nothing more than a fast idle during warmup.

Relay assembly (by the battery)

Two control the fuel pump. Third is the main injection relay. I have seen
these relays fail in weird modes… like… To test, yank it out and
jumper the block from pin 30 to pin 87. Remove jumper when done testing, less
you have a dead batteryt in no time.

Thanks to everyone who offered help this far. I appreciate any ideas!

Question. Are the injectors firing while cranking? An audible click should
be heard and felt.

Andrew

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 16:47:25 -0600
Subject: Re[2]: SIII EFI fuel pumps, general questio

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OK, I’ll bite . . .

What E-Type has an immersed fuel pump?

MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RE: SIII EFI fuel pumps, general questio
Author: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch at Internet
Date: 11/4/1996 9:37 AM

Hello everyone,
I had the same idea myself when overhauling the immersed petrol pump of my
E-type.

- --IMA.Boundary.295052748--

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 21:36:41 -0600
Subject: Re: E-type front AMCO bars

AMCO bars were not required by regulation, nor were they a factory option.
However, AMCO bars were a very popular accessory for British sports cars of
the sixties. (You could put one on your MGB as well as your E-Type!)

AMCO made bars for both the front and rear of the E-Type. The front was
especially popular, since it provided a limited amount of protection to the
nose of the car. Since the radiator opening is totally unprotected by the
small corner mounted bumpers, E-Types are especially prone to damage from
people who parallel park by ear. Even my '74, which has great huge
god-awful ugly rubber projections has been dinged more than once by people
parking in front of it. If they back into it square they just bump the
rubber, but when they come in at an angle (as in parallel parking) the
corner of their rear bumper neatly goes between the rubber guards and dings
the bonnet. The older E-Types, especially series 1s, are very vulnerable.
Hence the market for AMCO bars.

If you’ve never seen one, the front bar is simply two curved chrome tubes
that are butt welded to a flat chrome plate at each end. The plates bolt
to the overriders. The curves of the tubes match the upper and lower
curves of the radiator opening, so the appearance is fairly pleasing.

Back when I sold performance and racing parts I also sold AMCO accessories.
My '74 is the only E-Type they didn’t make one for. Because of the large
rubber overriders, there’s no place to mount one.

They also made quite a variety of other popular accessories for “sports
cars.” Their line of leather or wood shift knobs was very popular. My
E-Type still has the black leather AMCO knob with Jag emblem that I
installed 22 years ago (and the keys are still on the matching fob!)

Their other big seller was chrome luggage racks for British sports cars.
There weren’t too many Austin-Healys, MGs or E-Type around here that didn’t
have an AMCO rack on the bootlid. If you come across any old Brit cars
with four chrome buttons on the bootlid, the buttons are the mounts for the
racks. I remember the '74 AMCO dealer catalog had an Azure blue series 3
E-Type on the cover with both the AMCO bars and the luggage rack. The rack
had a large wicker picnic basket on it and the E-Type was equipped with an
especially attractive human of the female persuasion in the passenger seat.
I could just see myself driving off for a little intimate lunch . . .

. . . then my wife would drag me back to reality.

Actually, when my wife and I were dating the AMCO rack on the back of my
MGA was a very useful item. If you think it’s tough having a Jag as your
daily driver, try having an MGA as your ONLY driver. Yet we would drive
all over the middle East coast in that MG. Just the three of us; my (not
yet) wife, myself and the rock I carried to jar the fuel pump and/or
voltage regulator into life. Man, these kids today don’t know how good
they have it. No more leaking lever-action shocks, no more Lucas
generators (excuse me, dynamos). No more unsynchronized gearboxes.

MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: E-type front AMCO bars
Author: “Graham; Bill” Bill.Graham@noaa.gov at Internet
Date: 11/5/1996 12:53 PM

The front overriders on our 68 E-type coupe have holes for the mounting of
an AMCO bar and front AMCO bars are available through various suppliers.
Yet I can’t find any pictures of Series one or two E-types with front AMCO
bars nor can I find any mention of front AMCO bars in my guide to E-type
restoration. Was a front AMCO bar required by U.S. safety regulations or
was it just a factory option? Anybody have some information?

Bill Graham
68 XKE Series 1 1/2 FHC (hers)
71 MGB rdstr (his)

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 21:05:50 -0600
Subject: Re: XJS Conversion to Convertible

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Why not just start with a seven year old convertible and save the
conversion effort. At least then you’ll be able to find all the parts you
need to keep it going!

MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: XJS Conversion to Convertible
Author: Andy.Reynolds@lifesciences.com at Internet
Date: 11/5/1996 7:32 PM

Hi list-ers,

During idle moments I sometimes think about about buying
a 10 year old XJS cheap, cutting off the top and re-spraying
(as a ‘small’ hobby project), thus making a fine convertible.

Perhaps someone could tell me why this is such a bad idea.

Let’s start with ‘reduction of stiffness of monocoque’ …

Andy Reynolds
1985 XJ6

–IMA.Boundary.023152748–

From: John Toyofuku toyofuku@slip.net
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 1996 18:46:04 -0800
Subject: '65 3.8 ‘S’ type wiring

OK, reality is starting to set in and I’m getting that clammy feeling of
“What did I get myself in for?”. Looking over my just acquired '65 3.8
‘S’ “Jag-in-a-box” I’m going over what’s going to be needed to get it in
shape. The interior is completed removed so I looked over the wiring and
it looks a bit old and stiff. I don’t think there are any shorts or
breaks in the wires, but a few of the more exposed wires are losing
their flexibility.

Does anyone know where I can get a wiring harness for this particular
model? How difficult is it to replace the harness? And if anyone has had
any tips on attempting this, I’d greatly appreciate it. The dash wiring
looks especially intimidating.

I’m currently stripping all the wood for refinishing but I still haven’t
decided on a type of finish.

Thanks in advance,

John Toyofuku

"65 3.8 ‘S’

From: Kyle Chatman kchatman@mail.coin.missouri.edu
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 22:00:03 -0600
Subject: 1983 XJ6 S3: Are Smiths and Veliga Volt Meters Interchangeable?

How’s that for eliminating the superfluous? The Veliga is about $77 and the Smiths is about $50. I have a Veliga that doesn’t work well.

From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 1996 23:14:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Starting an E-type mail list

At 08:08 PM 05/11/96 -0800,GW Cohn wrote;
I have checked with my internet service provider and I can set
up a mailing list with majordomo service for free! If some of the
E owners are interested in this supplemental mailing list, drop me
a note and if there is sufficient interest (maybe 10 people) we can just do it!

I suppose that if an E list were established I would subscribe, esp. since
my mailer will just d/l that list along with other lists I am on, (3 so far!)
but if others can’t access it as well I would be against it.
I have made several good friends on here who do not own E’s and
would definitely stay here. My money says there are folks on the list
who don’t currently own an E but have in the past, and now have other
jags. Their experience and input is invaluable to me. I guess I find the
delete key rather easier to use than my E’s 2nd gear and am not in
favour of splitting the list. Besides, as E owners, we are elitist enough!
Regards,
Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
'62 E-Type, ots, flat floor.

From: Jon Jackson jon1@flash.net
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 1996 22:35:14 -0600
Subject: Re: 85 XJS HE Alternator

Fisher-Tommy@ophthalmology-po.ophth.uiowa.edu wrote:

 I think I found the problem, for those interested.  My Alternator
 has a burnt "rectifier" according to the auto electric expert.  He
 is going to replace this part, turn the armature, set new berings
 and brushes plus check the diodes for $200 +/-  with a one year
 gaurantee,  Good price??? Anyone have any comments on the Bosch
 replacement???

 FISH

I replaced my alternator with a rebuilt one for $150 US$.

Jon
87 XJS

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 6 Nov 96 13:28:29
Subject: rE: u jOINTS…

To check the two drive shafts, jack up one side at a time, using a garage jack
under the outer fork on the lower wishbone to load the suspension somewhere
near the normal height. Secure the car with a stand under the normal jacking
point, just in case. Hold one U-joint at a time so as to feel any slack in it,
and het somebody to twist the wheel forward and backward. To check the
propeller shaft, put the car up on stands with both rear wheels clear of the
floor. Again, feel all U-joints (don’t forget the splined extension joint)
while somebody twists a rear wheel.

-Jan

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 6 Nov 96 10:40:49
Subject: Re: was another dead cat (XJ6), now XJ Driving Pleasure

John Littler : Never let it be said an XJ6 won’t corner - it mightn’t be
an E-type or an
XJS but I think the tag “sports saloon” is fair and reasonable.

Amen to that. I’ve driven S2 XJ12s for 5 years now, and I still marvel with
delight at just how chuckable this large luxury car is - with complete aplomb,
too. I’m fortunate enought to have some 30 km of twisty country road on my
regular way to and from work; it’s true as they say that “getting there is half
the fun”…

In my opinion, the XJ12C is an outstanding embodiment of the Gran Turismo, in
the sense “fast, elegant vehicle suitable to take a sportive gentleman on the
Grand Tour”. So is the XJS, of course; it’s just the wrong “flavour” for me -
and the servants will be deucedly uncomfortable in the rear seat, don’t you
know… :3+)

-Jan

From: alans@ultranet.com (Alan Sliski)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 23:40:18 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [none]

I have a Jaguar 1972 XKE V12 with 4 stromberg CD175 carbs. It doesn’t run
right at all. I bought the car several yars ago and have been fixing it
little by little. I bought it not running well. I have had the heads done
by straight six jaguar, had the cams ground for a little more lift by
Schneider, and now the engine does’t run well at idle or under load. I have
checked all the obvious thing such as cam timing, compression, ignition
timing, etc. I have put a scope on the ignition and it looks good. I have
taken the carbs apart, cleaned them, installed new diaphragms and grose-jet
needles, set and checked the float height, I have plugged the air injection
ports, blocked the throttle bypass valves in the carbs, etc etc. I have
adjusted the needles up and down with little if any improvement (or
noticeable change for that matter). The throttle shaft bushings show little
play. I would like to try different (probably richer) needles to see if
this helps. I know the strombergs are terrible at best, but short of
installing Webers, does anyone have any information on how to choose a new
needle number, and where to get them?, or any other creative thoughts on
how to sort this out?
I have a Haynes manual on the zenith carbs and it lists the stock
needle as B1BH, but the tables showing the other needle sizes are mixed up
and the B1BH doesn’t appear, so I can’t tell which is the next needle in the
series.
I would be interested in suggestions for professional help in the
Boston area that actually understands these carbs(assuming that anyone can
understand these- the british have twisted sense of humor calling these
constant depression), and has a stock of tuning parts such as needles.
Anyone got a set of used Webers cheap?

From: TCFallers@aol.com
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 23:45:42 -0500
Subject: Engine noise

Help!
I just had the 3.8L engine in my 1965 MKII rebuilt this summer. The head was
gone through by a Jag specialist from New Hampshire. The engine now “taps”
and sounds rather like a sewing machine than a burly cat. The sound increases
with RPM and is constant in tone and character. I think that I can hear it
through the exhaust pipe as well. The engine runs and idles well. No misses
or exhaust smoke. This noise sounds too “tinny” to be bottom end in origin.
We have checked the valve clearances twice and rechecked the timing chains
and cam tower as well.
Before we go taking the head off again, I wondered if anyone could shed some
light on this mystery or enlighten me on this subject.
Thanks,
Rich Faller

From: Jon Jackson jon1@flash.net
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 1996 22:49:48 -0600
Subject: Andrew Weinberg

Sorry to post this to the list but his mail has been returned
undeliverable.

Andrew,

I am interested in several of the parts from your car. Although I have
tan interior I was wondering if the headliner, rear panels with map
lights, and the trim above the doors are all in good shape. What would
you want for the entire enterior. I can have them recovered to match my
car. Which wheels do you have on your car. I also need the rear tail
light covers. I am guessing that the 84’s are the same as the 87’s. I
guess the last thing I can think of would be the exaust system. I
figure since your in CA that it is in good shape if not fairly new. Let
me know a price for each and for all.

Thanks
Jon Jackson
jon1@flash.net
87 XJS BRG

From: Fei Chun Ma m956337@umacsn1.umac.mo
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 12:54:29 +0800 (HKT)
Subject: Re: XJ6 Steering Wheel

Hello Hal Rogers,

On Tue, 5 Nov 1996, Hal Rogers wrote:

According to my 1996 Jaguar accessory catalog, the steering wheel which is
wood on top half and wood on the lower half is a stock steering wheel for
the 1996 XJR, XJ12, and XJ6 Vanden Plas. It is available as an option for
the standard XJ6. The Wheel is a walnut with color coordinated leather
grips…to match the leather interior of the car.

Interior Color Matching wheel color
Charcoal Charcoal
Cream Coffee
Coffee Coffee
Parchment Sage
Oatmeal Antelope
Nimbus Slate
I think this is the wheel you have described.
Yes! You get it!
The seller said that only Diamond Jubilee Edition XJ6 has this wooden
steering wheel…
Thanks for your information…

					Regards,
					Ma Fei Chun, Patrick.

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #498

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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 6 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 499

Re: Diamond Jubilee version Jaguar.
Re: 1936 JAGUAR SS100 FOR SALE.
RE: Hella H4 headamps in Jags
RE: Re[2]: SIII EFI fuel pumps, general
Hella H4 headlamps in Jags
E-Type 2+2 S1: wheels & tires
E-Type mailing-list
re: Introduction
RE: E-type noise
Buying my first jag
85 XJ-S For Sale (Australia)
Lingual complications. (No jag-content)
Re: Valve Adjustment Sov SIII
Re: Canister in front fender well…
Re: '74 E-type front and rear over-riders
Re: Lingual complications. (No jag-content)
S-Type wiring Harness
SIII engine cut out/no start
XJS fuel line
SIII XJ6 : Canister in front fender well…
E AMCO Bars, Fuel Pumps and Split the list

From: Fei Chun Ma m956337@umacsn1.umac.mo
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 14:39:00 +0800 (HKT)
Subject: Re: Diamond Jubilee version Jaguar.

Hello James,

On Tue, 5 Nov 1996, James A. Isbell wrote:

Your car is an XJ40. It is true that there is a badge on the back that says
XJ6, but it is not an XJ6 in the sense that Jaguar people mean. The XJ6 has
a 4.2 litre engine and was last made in 1986. The “6” refers to that
particular engine and no other. Your car does not have the 4.2 Litre engine.
The common name for your car is XJ40. I have no idea why they continued to
use the XJ6 markings on the back unless it was just that they had some left
over. This does not deminish your possesion at all, in fact, most would say
that the XJ40 is the better of the two cars since it was made after Jaguar
solved some of their slopy production problems.
It is my understanding that the difference from the regular XJ40 and the
Diamond Jubilee version is in the trim and color of the car.
Please refer to web site: http://home.sn.no/home/nick/info/xj6_faq.txt
This is the faq for XJ6, and inside this faq, there is the XJ40 divided
in two model: XJ6 and XJ12…
I think my car is a XJ40 with 6 cylinder… Yup, you get it right… I think…

Also, the home page of http://www.discover.co.uk/~motor/jdje.html
will inform you about the Diamond Jubilee Exhibition in UK…

				Regards,
				Ma Fei Chun, Patrick
				XJ6, Macau.

From: Jim Ellis jellis@metz.une.edu.au
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 17:54:11 +1100 (EST)
Subject: Re: 1936 JAGUAR SS100 FOR SALE.

G’day to all collectors of early Jaguars,

    I notice that an advertisement in a recent 'Australian Financial

Review’( November 1st, 1996) offers a 1936 Jaguar SS100 3.5 litre for
$AUS98,500 . It is described as being “fully restored " and " a 1996
Concours winner”*1. (N.B.*1 The car apparently comes with the trophy - I am
not sure about the “SS 001” NSW Registration plates!)

The car appears to be located in SYDNEY as the contact telephone No is:
[+61] 2 9817 4393.

I have not contacted the seller as my interests (and financial capacity)
lies elsewhere - see below!!

regards,

Jim Ellis.

1963 Daimler 2.5L v8 saloon (sedan if you are ‘over the pond’).
Jim Ellis
Internal Auditor
University of New England,
N.S.W. 2351.
AUSTRALIA.

'phone: (067) 733497;
[national: +61 67 733497;]

fax: (067) 733314;

e-mail: jellis@metz.une.edu.au

From: Are Lorentsen are@vinn.no
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 96 08:15:00 PST
Subject: RE: Hella H4 headamps in Jags

Greg Meboe mentioned in his posting that the Hella H4 headlamps can be
used in the XJ range. I understand these are brighter than the usual
Lucas ones. If these can be found on old VW Golfs then that sounds even

better.

Can Greg or anyone else tell me if the the Hella headlamps need any
modifications to fit on Jags. Is the connector on the back the same, and

are they sealed beam or with separate bulb ?

Thanks

Pete Hamel
'86 XJ6 SIII UK

Standard Hella H4 for VOLVO 142/144 fits right in.

Are Lorentsen
Narvik, Norway
82 XJ6

From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 09:55 +0100
Subject: RE: Re[2]: SIII EFI fuel pumps, general

OK, I’ll bite . . .

What E-Type has an immersed fuel pump?

MikeC

Hi,
Series 1 3.8 l. E-types had an immersed fuel pump. An electric motor turns a=20=

kind of dented rotor supplying petrol at low (can’t remember how much)=20
pressure.
Frans. (hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch)

From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 09:44:57 -0800
Subject: Hella H4 headlamps in Jags

Pete;

Mine are Hella. They are not sealed beams, but with separate bulbs. I want to
get back to Lucas lamps, and have just asked about part numbers.

I have the part numbers for the Hella lamps at home. If you need them, I’ll be
happy to send them to you. Or, what the hell; we could swap lamps!

Cheers!
Bard

______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no

From: Stephan Perthes 100277.1037@CompuServe.COM
Date: 06 Nov 96 04:30:04 EST
Subject: E-Type 2+2 S1: wheels & tires

Lauren:

No problem at all with 6" & 205/70 VR 15 tires -
no rubbing, no body work required. Fit perfectly.
I’v heard (but not seen) the same even with 6,5" wheels.

Steering: Also no problem. Maybe a (very) little
change in feeling compared to 185. Just in case:
An extra cup of cereals in the morning will do.

What does “TIA” stand for? Of course I know OTS, FHC, …

Stephan Perthes / E-Type 2+2 S1 1966 3xSUHD8 LHD
mailto:100277.1037@compuserve.com
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Perthes/Jaglinks.htm
“Hope I die before I get old” (C) 1967 Pete Townshend/The Who.

From: “Lauren E. Pratt” pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 96 15:12:23 PST
Subject: Re: E-Type with 205-70-VR15 tires
To: Stephan Perthes 100277.1037@CompuServe.COM

Stephan

Just read your post on your 66 2+2 with larger tires.

I agree the 185-15 tires look like skinny weenies and I would
like to up sizes to 195 or 205. I could put Goodyear Eagle
195/70ur/15 on my 5 inch wheels, but they would be too small
in diameter. The 205 should be on 6 inch wheels, but this brings
up a few questions. Will they fit in the wheel wells without
rubbing or requiring body work? (I have been told they will
rub when the steering wheel is turned to lock). Also is the
steering heavy at very slow speed, or when trying to park in
the corner of the garage.

Just wondering

TIA Cheers Lauren

65 E-Type Roar On

Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 11/5/96
Time: 3:12:23 PM

This message was sent by Chameleon

From: Stephan Perthes 100277.1037@CompuServe.COM
Date: 06 Nov 96 04:30:06 EST
Subject: E-Type mailing-list

George:

I am interested. Continue!

Special E-Type web site (under construction, just started):

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Perthes/EType.htm

Regards,

Stephan Perthes / E-Type 2+2 S1 1966 3xSUHD8 LHD
mailto:100277.1037@compuserve.com
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Perthes/Jaglinks.htm
“Hope I die before I get old” (C) 1967 Pete Townshend/The Who.

From: ffilangeri@juno.com (Frank A Filangeri)
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 1996 03:00:00 EST
Subject: re: Introduction

Hi Phil,

Welcome to jag-lovers. Seems to be a lot of 62 E OTS’s on the list!
Mine is #926 built in late October 1961. It is flat floor and has no
recess in the rear bulkhead to allow additional front seat travel (not
important to me…only 5’5"-- sounds like you need it though). Car came
with a series 1 1/2 nose since replaced with a proper S1 nose but with
integral louvers. My research indicates it should have had separate
louvers as would your car. Check the ads in Hemmings. Sellers often
give a description and a VIN # and it can help identify unique features.

I installed a 4.2 gearbox during restoration. Two schools of thought
here. One: Change everything that attaches to the 4.2 box. This
includes the rear mount, starter and flywheel (it should be lightened to
match 3.8 or better). This is what I did and it is a bolt in conversion.
At the time I did not know there was an alternative. Two: Machine the
3.8 bell housing to accept the larger front bearing on the 4.2 box and
use the 3.8 flywheel and starter. I think you need the rear mount setup
in any case. Can’t vouch for this approach personally but I understand
it has been done. By either method it is worthwhile doing. The 4.2 box
is a lot easier to live with and quieter (than mine anyway). If you have
a 4.2 box available, do it…you won’t regret it.

Frank
62 E OTS
66 Healey 3000

On 05 Nov 1996 20:40:06 GMT digs@gradymccauley.com (Digital Imaging)
writes:

Hello Everyone,
My name is Phil Lawrence, I live near Massillon, Ohio
… The Jag has flat floors but does not have welded
bonnet
louvers. As far as I can tell this was the 524th OTS built. Has the
bonnet
been replaced or was the cut off point for welded louvers before this?

What kind of a job/expense is it to

install an
all syncro box from a later model?

From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 11:37 +0100
Subject: RE: E-type noise

It won’t cause noise, nor will it eleminate it. British Leyland used to fill=20=

rocker panels with foam in their cars (They may still do it, I’ve no idea)=20
on Mini’s and the like. The idea was that it eleminated condensation and=20
rust. They still rotted though, so no success. On top of that, it will be a=20=

nuisance for somebody doing repair work afterwards, it may be dangerous when=20=

welding.
Frans. (hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch)

I am currently restoring a '64 XKE OTS and a 57 T- Bird and both cars
have a space in the inner and outer rocker panels. For noise level
control should I fill both with liquid foam insulation or leave it as=20
it
was designed? The foam will be fairly rigid after it sets up, but will
it cause a noise when driving? any thoughts?

=20

From: Bruce.Madge@mail.bl.uk (Bruce Madge)
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 10:54:02 +0000
Subject: Buying my first jag

 Dear Jag Lovers
 
 I am in the process of making the decison to buy a Jag, having 
 lusted after one for some time. I currently run a SAAB 9000 SE 
 Turbo (F reg) and it would be a part exchange deal so I want to 
 make the right decision so as not to let myself in for grief at 
 home!!!
 
 My local garage (not a Jag dealer)has a "D reg" (1986/87??) XJ6 - 
 presumably XJ40 for 3995 pounds sterling (about 6000 dollars). 
 The registration is D862RGT ( is there a previous owner out 
 there?)It is a very light blue metallic, auto box with leather. 
 On close examination of the bodywork it appears excellent and has  a Jag enthusiast club sticker in the rear window (surely a good  sign??). I have not yet taken the plunge and accosted the  salesman but I would like to know what to look out for?? I know a  service history is vital but is there anything else to consider? Can anyone help a potential Jag owner?? WBW Bruce Madge Car lover and Librarian (!!!) From: kew@hutch.com.au Date: Mon, 06 Nov 1995 22:38:15 +1000 Subject: 85 XJ-S For Sale (Australia) Although I haven't had much input, I have perused jag-lovers postings for the past 12  months with a keen interest.  It has now come time for me to sell my 1985 XJ-S V12. The vehicle is metallic blue in colour with bone coloured trim (in particularly  beautiful condition).  It was delivered new in 1987 and has covered 153,000 kilometres  and is in lovely condition (always garaged)  I am the second owner, the original owner  residing in Bowral near Goulburn.  Services to the vehicle are recorded in log books.  The vengine is supremely smooth and quiet.  The vehicle is rust free.  I am asking  $23,000-00 which is a very reasonable price but I am also open to offers. If anyone is interested, please contact me, thanks Nathan Campbell Sydney, Australia 02 9261 4004 From: Baard Th Hesvik <baard@telesoft.no> Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 12:04:42 -0800 Subject: Lingual complications. (No jag-content) Cosmo wrote:

I got caught out in torrential rain on the M3 and now have a bent
83 XJ6 sitting in the garage.

Which reminds me of a friend and business associate some years ago who came from
London, via Oslo. From Oslo to Haugesund he came in a SAS plane. Now, SAS have
named their planes after vikings and ancient viking gods, and my friend was
almost afraid to enter the plane when he saw the name, “Bent Viking” on the nose
of the plane.

A UK collegue was appalled when we drove the Autobahn towards Frankfurt a.M. All
the exits were marked Ausfahrt.

All the best.
Bard

______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no

From: theo bremner tbremner@lynx.dac.neu.edu
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 07:49:27 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Valve Adjustment Sov SIII

Hello,

Looking for technical procedure for doing a valve adjustment on

1985 Sov Series III. Unfortunately I have a Haynes manual that assumes
you have the head off and cams out and all that but I want to adjust
them without taking the engine all apart. Can anyone offer me a copy or
fax or something of a few pages from there book?
Thanks in advance…
Theo
tbremner@lynx.neu.edu

From: theo bremner tbremner@lynx.dac.neu.edu
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 07:55:06 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Canister in front fender well…

Since there were no replies when I posted this a few days ago I will ask
againn maybe it didn’t go out or something…I was doing the front
brakes on my Sov SIII 1985 and saw a Square Canister in the passenger
side fender well mounted toward the front and toward the engine
…To my dismay this canister is rotted from the bottom and a chunk of
crud fell out upon inspection. It has a tube going in and out and some
say it is to do with the fuel but I’m in the fog on this one. Any
input?

Thanks in advance
Theo
tbremner@lynx.neu.edu

From: fcb@nbnet.nb.ca (Fred Bramston)
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 09:25:26 -0400
Subject: Re: '74 E-type front and rear over-riders

Even my '74, which has great huge
god-awful ugly rubber projections has been dinged more than once by people
parking in front of it. If they back into it square they just bump the
rubber, but when they come in at an angle (as in parallel parking) the
corner of their rear bumper neatly goes between the rubber guards and dings
the bonnet.

Hi Mike,
In reference to the Large Ugly Bumper overriders. I have a 74 E also, which
had been treated to a less than back to original restoration(Reparation?). I
have no idea if the original Bumpers were of the large ugly over-rider type.
However I am attempting to put them on and the P.O. either didn’t have them
or decided to put whatever was available on to it. In any case I have the
over-riders but the mounting brackets just aren’t suitable. Both the front
and back (the rear is the worst mess of Home-made huge Boxed Chromed
over-rider you could ever imagine. Great protection though.) are abnormal
and I haven’t the foggiest what they should look like, nor how to mount the
over-riders. So here is my question;
Could you (or anyone out there in jaguar land, possibly draw, duplicate,
replicate or in some other fashion copy the shape and dimensions from your
vehicle and forward them (front and rear)(with a minimal of trouble to
yourselves) to me? There is no hurry on this as I have numerous other
improvements to make to her in the meantime.I hope this isn’t too much to
ask of you all.
TIA.

-Fred

From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 1996 08:28:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Lingual complications. (No jag-content)

Bard wrote, in part;

A UK collegue was appalled when we drove the Autobahn towards Frankfurt
a.M. All
the exits were marked Ausfahrt.

This story reminds me of a very early, probably 1930’s,
early '40’s, poster, advertising Benz.
All in German, the last line read something like;
“Fur Grande (or Grosse, I forget which) Fahrts!”

My English-speaking mind read it as;
“For Big Farts!”
(not far wrong!)
Best back,
Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
'62 E-Type, ots, flat floor.

From: “Alastair Lauener” a.lauener@napier.ac.uk
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 96 14:01:42 gmt
Subject: S-Type wiring Harness

John Toyofuku asked re S-Type wiring

Does anyone know where I can get a wiring harness for this particular
model? How difficult is it to replace the harness? And if anyone has had
any tips on attempting this, I’d greatly appreciate it. The dash wiring
looks especially intimidating.

Harnesses can be obtained from Martin Robey (UK) and Henry Steel (UK), will have
to look up the address if you want.

You can buy the harnesses in parts, basically Left Hand sill, Right Hand Sill,
Dash and engine bay harnesses. The part advertised as main car harness is I
think the dash and engine bay harnesses. I think the total is about �350 -�450
UK pounds for all parts.

If you are doing sill replacement, consider replacing the harness then,
otherwise harness replacement is very difficult, as the harness is held in the
sill by metal tags, and doesn’t pull through very easily. Take photos of the
dash wiring, lots of them, and close up. Apart from that no other tips, the one
thing I haven’t done is replace the wiring.

Alastair Lauener Work Phone +44 131 455 2458 *
Chief Technician Fax +44 131 455 2267 *
Department of Building & Surveying *
Napier University, Edinburgh EH10 5DT a.lauener@napier.ac.uk *
1964 3.4 S-Type story at http://www.sn.no/home/nick/alas.html *

From: RDIAZ@maila.harris.com (RDIAZ)
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 09:09:43 -0500
Subject: SIII engine cut out/no start

 Andrew,
 
 In reply to your message below, check the 
 following:
 
 1) - Make sure there is good pressure 
 getting to the fuel rail; sometimes it 
 seems that fuel is getting there, but 
 there may not enough pressure to let fuel 
 past the injectors.  To check (don't 
 smoke!) disconnect the rail feed line 
 (closest to the battery) and crank the 
 engine.  Lots of fuel should flow out the 
 line (make sure that it's contained!)
 
 2) - If 1) is OK, and given that there is 
 spark on the plugs, then check the common 
 ground for the injectors (resistor block) 
 on the front right fender.
 
 Good luck!
 
 Ricardo Diaz
 rdiaz@harris.com
 85 XJ6, 90 XJ40 Sovereign
 =========================================
 From: "Andrew Sandiforth" <acer@serv.net> 
 Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 00:27:53 -0800 
 Subject: SIII engine cut out/no start
 
 Well, my 1984 XJ6 Vanden Plas is now sitting in the driveway of my 
 office
 building 40 minutes from home.
 I wrote before looking for some help on intermittant engine cut outs 
 after
 it wouldn't start.  Tonight the motor cut out in heavy trafic and 
 resisted
 all attempts to restart.
 
 Last weekend I replaced the coolant temp sensor, cleaned the leads and 
 checked the ground. I also went over every connection I could find and 
 insured good contacts.
 
 Symptoms:
 Fuel is definately getting to the fuel rail 
 Plugs are getting good spark
 (When running the car is smooth and powerful) 
 Has new cap, rotor, plugs and wires
 The motor turns over fine put doesn't catch 
 Plugs are dry
 
 What are the chances of it being the following:
 
 Air flow meter switch?
 Power resister
 Ignition amplifier
 Thermotine switch (The boot is brittled and cracked, but the wires are 
 ok)
 ECU or ECU temp sensor
 Defective cold start relay
 Auxillary air valve
 Relay assembly (by the battery)
 
 Thanks to everyone who offered help this far. I appreciate any ideas!
 
 Andrew

From: “Sang Oh” sango@ecg.csg.mot.com
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 08:35:56 -0600
Subject: XJS fuel line

Thanks for everyone who reply back on my previous post.

After careful inspection under the hood, I found one of the fuel line is
leaking.

This is the fuel line goes from fuel pressure regulator to fuel cooler. This
is part metal and part rubber line.(metal piping in the middle and rubber at
the end.)

I was wondering whether it is possible to just replace the one end of the
rubber line with non-jaguar fuel line.

If it is possible what size rubber fuel line should I look for.
Also how to go about taking the old rubber out from the fuel line? It is not
clamped to the metal part of the piping. It is more like one piece.

regards,

–Sang

Sang Oh

Motorola
Cordless Product
Cellular Subscriber Group
1900 W. Winchester Road
Libertyville, IL 60048
Phone:(708) 523-4725
Fax:(708) 523-2499
E-mail: sango@ecg.csg.mot.com

From: Dan Welchman Dan.Welchman@Smallworld.co.uk
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 96 15:09:32 GMT
Subject: SIII XJ6 : Canister in front fender well…

Theo (tbremner@lynx.neu.edu) writes:-

I was doing the front brakes on my Sov SIII 1985 and saw
a Square Canister in the passenger side fender well… (etc)

I too have a canister in the left front wing, it is a
catch tank for the overflow from the cooling system header
tank. However, mine is made out of plastic so there is no
way for it to rot. My car is a UK model which doesn’t have
many peripheral emissions control gadgets but I would guess
that yours is something similar. It’s not very important,
just stops excess coolant dripping on the floor - check that
your header-tank pressure cap is in good nick.

Dan.

From: Steve_Kemp_at_NBD@pcmail.tellabs.com
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 96 08:42:58 CST
Subject: E AMCO Bars, Fuel Pumps and Split the list

 All,
 
 RE: AMCO bars, MikeC is right, popular aftermarket accessory, but not 
 factory option. It IS acceptable in JCNA for AMCO bars to exist on a 
 car in concours and driven classes, as the U.S. dealer often installed 
 these things (I've now owned two cars that came that way). Really, 
 it's personal taste and several folks I've met like them on the back, 
 but not on the front. In looking at my extensive collection of E-type 
 literature, they do not appear to be popular European accessory 
 (probably indicative of the way we drive in the U.S.).
 
 RE Immersible fuel pumps in the E's tank; I believe the change to 
 external pumps came in 1965, but the parts book would have a reference 
 to the exact date, as does Skilleter's (sorry, Paul, if your name is 
 sp wrong) early book I believe titled Jaguar E-Type Guide. The factory 
 offered a retrofit kit to dealers for replacement of the original 
 submersible pump to the external (under the right wing) SU pump. There 
 are many U.S. shops that now repair the immersible pump or offer 
 rebuilts (British Auto recently advertised them for a couple hundred 
 if I remember right). I don't think I'd attempt an a repair myself, as 
 installing the internal firescreen incorrectly could likely have 
 disasterous effects.
 
 RE: split the list; I would subscribe to an E-only list, simply 
 because the digest I now get comes as an attachement that that is 
 darned difficult to simply reply to using ccMail. While I agree with 
 the old-timers that the digest is a good replacement for the constant 
 bombardment of email (glad we had the discussion, sorry you had to 
 live through it once again), the way it is handled by my mailer makes 
 inclusion of the orig message a very nasty task.
 
 Steve K.
 62 OTS (really a convertible in the true sense) under reconstruction

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #499

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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 6 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 500

Horn wont stop blowing XJ6, 420 and XJ-S maybe others,
re: E-Type list
re: E-type Amco bars
re: new member XJ6 questions
Re: Heat for an E-Type
Re: Bad News/Good News
RE: Starting an E-type mail list
Re: '65 3.8 ‘S’ type wiring
[none]
re: Engine noise (xk six cyl.)
re: E-Type list
Steering Wheel Adjustment
News: XJ-S Center Console Cover for sale
Re: 85 XJS HE Alternator
XJS Convertibles
Starting an E-type Mailing List

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 09:17:12 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Horn wont stop blowing XJ6, 420 and XJ-S maybe others,

I have just found the temporary cure for the horn that blows when the
steering wheel is turned or gets stuck.

If you have an adjustable column like the XJ-S and XJ6 try readjusting the
height of the wheel to get yourself home without atracting too much
attention. It is not a permanent fix but it alows you use of your horn so
is better than disconnecting the horn. Also might get you through an anuual
inspection.

I found it by accident when I adjusted the height of the column in my XJ-S
and the horn started blowing. The PO said he had never had a problem with
it so I adjusted it back (all the way in, the PO is BIG) and the problem
went away for about a week. Its back now though so I guess I will open up
the column.

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 96 23:24:00 PST
Subject: re: E-Type list

George,

As a new E-Type owner (I’m new, not the E-Type), I can appreciate the
sentiment and temptation for an E-Type list. My only misgivings are
that:

Many of the list members have owned E-Types and have some knowledge.
Lots of info crosses over between the breeds (the XK engines,
suspension, as two examples).
I really like the community here and wouldn’t want to fragment it.

My test question is, would a E-Type list enhance the discussions amongst
E-Type owners? Would the participation be more active? For example, a
week or so ago I posted a question about the correct finish for the
air-box of the '70 E-Type. No answers came. (I’ve since figured out
that it is Hammertone or whatever it’s called.) Again, would it
enhance the discussion, and how do you know?

Similar question: The XKs have a separate list, and I hear that the
discussion is pretty active. How many of those people also participate
in the jag-lovers group as well? John Elmgreen, do you have any
observations or data here?

David
'70 2+2
'84 XJ6 VDP

From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 96 23:29:00 PST
Subject: re: E-type Amco bars

The delivery papers of my '70 2+2 include the window sticker. All
options are listed, and checked (and priced) as applicable. This is the
genuine Jaguar Cars window sticker, with the model, VIN, dealer, and all
prices typed in by the dealer. There are two blank lines for other
options. One line has ‘Front Bumper Guard $32.00’ typed in. The bar
has survived the years extremely well, with no dings.

David
'70 2+2
'84 XJ6 VDP

From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Tue, 05 Nov 96 21:57:00 PST
Subject: re: new member XJ6 questions

Did all these cars come with electric antennas?

Yes, at least in the states.

Should the interior lights dim when you shut the door?

Do you mean go off, or dim slowly? Mine just shut off when the door
shuts.

Is there a chime or buzzer for the key?
An irritating-sounding one, yes.

If these things are bad, were are they located?

Can’t tell you offhand - if no one else gives the answer, I’ll go look
at mine.

The gauges, trip computer, push buttons and auto transmission gear
letter light up in my car but nothing else. Should there be more? What
does the optical unit supply light for?

The climate-control knob illumination, for one. If they don’t light up
and the 5W bulb is lit, then the fiber optics are either broken, kinked,
or slipped out of the ends (likely). Try pushing them back in at both
ends. If that fails, try pulling the far end out and seeing if light
comes out.

The A/C seems to vent: 60% to the defrost vents, 30% to the floor
and 10% to the dash vents. Is this normal? Is there a way to change it?

Doesn’t sound like mine. Perhaps Jim Isbells ‘Bumper to Bumper’
booklet, or Kirby’s XJS booklet have some info for you.

David

From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 09:56:34 -0600
Subject: Re: Heat for an E-Type

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

From: Robert J. Richardson rrichardson@eurekanet.com
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Heat for an E-Type
Date: Tuesday, November 05, 1996 8:05 PM

I had to stop work on my master cylinder installations on my
E-Type because of the cold weather here in Ohio. I need to buy
some kind of a space heater for my unheated garage so I can
continue the installation. Can anyone recommend a “safe”
heater? I’m a little concerned about an open flame because
of possible gasolene fumes building up. What kind of heater
would perform best and with the greatest safety in my one-car
(small) garage?

For an enclosed garage in which you’d like to keep the air
breatheable do not use the kerosene fired “torpedo” type heater
they will GREATLY decrease the amount of oxygen avaiable in the
enclosure. Propane torpedos are not much better but are somewhat
cleaner the best way to use a propane torpedo is to get the air and
whatever else is in the garage several degrees warmer that what
you would actually like and then evacuate the “spent” air with fresh
air from outside… raise the door and open a window for a few
minutes. The temp inside will drop and will be comfortable. Of
course this a waste of propane by deliberately allowing some hard
to generate heat escape into the cooler air…

Take a trip to your local home/building supply center and look for
the propane type “torpedo” heater or better yet look fot a propane
fired radiant type heater… clue… they glow orange/red when
working properly… and in some cases have a ceramic grid…

Tim Blystone
pcsolutions@mindspring.com

------=_NextPart_000_01BBCBC8.CB3EAA40
Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

> From: Robert J. Richardson = <rrichardson@eurekanet.com>
> To: jag-lovers@sn.no
> Subject: Heat for an E-Type
> Date: = Tuesday, November 05, 1996 8:05 PM
>
> I had to stop work = on my master cylinder installations on my
> E-Type because of the = cold weather here in Ohio. I need to buy
> some kind of a space = heater for my unheated garage so I can
> continue the = installation. Can anyone recommend a "safe"
> heater? = I'm a little concerned about an open flame because
> of possible = gasolene fumes building up. What kind of heater
> would perform = best and with the greatest safety in my one-car
> (small) = garage?

For an enclosed garage in which you'd like to keep = the air
breatheable do not use the kerosene fired = "torpedo" type heater
they will GREATLY decrease the amount = of oxygen avaiable in the
enclosure. Propane torpedos are not much = better but are somewhat
cleaner the best way to use a propane torpedo = is to get the air and
whatever else is in the garage several degrees = warmer that what
you would actually like and then evacuate the = "spent" air with fresh
air from outside... raise the door = and open a window for a few
minutes. The temp inside will drop and = will be comfortable. Of
course this a waste of propane by = deliberately allowing some hard
to generate heat escape into the = cooler air...

Take a trip to your local home/building supply = center and look for
the propane type "torpedo" heater or = better yet look fot a propane
fired radiant type heater... clue... = they glow orange/red when
working properly... and in some cases have = a ceramic grid...

Tim Blystone
pcsolutions@mindspring.com

- ------=_NextPart_000_01BBCBC8.CB3EAA40--

From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 1996 07:42:02 GMT
Subject: Re: Bad News/Good News

In message 327F66F1.2781@informix.com Cosmo writes:

Their quote included 360 pounds labour + 120 paint etc. and parts
from Jaguar. The quote I got from Jaguar was 1,400 (all plus VAT)
but did not include the mythical 800 pound front bumper. The major
cost being the bonnet and chrome grill at over 600 quid.
Have Jaguar spare parts recently fallen in price? A front wing, even
at 167 pounds seems relatively cheap.

Quotes in the form “x Pounds for labour plus any parts required at
manufacturer’s list price” used to be pretty common. The Ford dealer
quote, after adding parts, will probably get close to the =A31,400.00
quoted by the other lot. Just looks better initially.

I can assure you that Jaguar parts have NOT gone cheap. A front wing for
an XJ-S is =A3396 + VAT, list.

A more switched-on insurance company (or private customer will
get quotes in the labour-plus-parts-at-MLP format and then dicker
to get parts at MLP minus 20%. Most bodyshops, after some whingeing,
will still accept that.

No prizes for guessing how I found out.

Regards,

Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
'88 XJ-S V12 (bent a year ago)

From: Mark Budd mbudd@inforoute.net
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 11:17:58 -0500
Subject: RE: Starting an E-type mail list

Hello George,

I would want to be involved with it! I own an E and am restoring it =

myself for now. I would not want to remove myself from this present list =
tho, and would enjoy the two. Being with E owners only would get me to =
chat more about the car - what I’m not doing now because of so many =
other Jags discussed here. I would enjoy all the E feedback from other =
owners too! I think it would be good. No separation - just a new place =
to go to.

Mark Budd
1970 OTS in resto 1995 - current

From: George Cohn[SMTP:gwcohn@azstarnet.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 1996 11:08 PM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Starting an E-type mail list

OK guys, heres the deal, every once in a while the subject comes up of
splitting the list and there hundreds of messages pro and con. I enjoy
reading about all Jags but I would like a place where all of us E owners
can roll in ecstacy without boring the others to death. I have checked
with my internet service provider and I can set up a mailing list with
majordomo service for free! If some of the E owners are interested in
this supplemental mailing list, drop me a note and if there is
sufficient interest (maybe 10 people) we can just do it!

GW Cohn
'70 E-OTS

From: bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman Wing)
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 11:36:26 -0500
Subject: Re: '65 3.8 ‘S’ type wiring

Does anyone know where I can get a wiring harness for this particular
model? How difficult is it to replace the harness? And if anyone has had
any tips on attempting this, I’d greatly appreciate it. The dash wiring
looks especially intimidating.

Hi, John, the wiring harness on a MkII/S is indeed very intimidating. I
don’t know how different the two cars are in terms of wiring, but I would
think that if anything, the S-type would be more complicated than a MkII.
However, it’s not all that bad to replace the harness, as long as you have
some patience and a basic understanding of simple electrical circuits.
Harnesses are available from many of the major suppliers over here, XKs,
British Auto, SICP to name a few. Also, I believe there is a guy who
advertises in Hemming’s Motor News who specializes in wiring harnesses.

    Another option would be to fabricate one yourself. I did this for

my Land Rover, and may do it soon for the MkII. This is definitely cheaper,
and allows you to update the systems(positive ground, alternator, fuses,
relays, etc.) but is a major undertaking, and if it’s not done well, you’ll
be much worse off than when you started. My PO did a horrible job, it was
what caused me to convert back to the original harness.

    Anyway, the only tricks are to take lots of pictures as you take

the old one out, tag ALL connections on both the original harness and what
it connects to(you can use this as a guide for the new one), and make sure
you have the correct wiring diagram for the car. If the harness is a good
one, you should be able to hook things up simply by using the colors of the
wires. in reality it isn’t that simple, but most of it’s fairly intuitive.
I think the hardest part for me was trying to squeeze the #$% harness
through the hole in the bulkhead, which seems way too small at first. If
you have any other questions, let me know, as I have learned how to do this
the hard way, starting from scratch.

Regards,

Braman
'63MkII 3.8
'66 Land Rover 88"

From: alans%ultranet.com@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil (Alan Sliski)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 23:40:18 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [none]

Much carb work done here, and things tried, but after rebuilding my carbs,
I think I see a problem. I posted this to the list for a ‘double check’ from
anyone who might have tried it. LLoyd

----------------------------Original message----------------------------
I have a Jaguar 1972 XKE V12 with 4 stromberg CD175 carbs. It doesn’t run
right at all. I bought the car several yars ago and have been fixing it
… deleted stuff…
taken the carbs apart, cleaned them, installed new diaphragms and grose-jet
needles, set and checked the float height, I have plugged the air injection
ports, blocked the throttle bypass valves in the carbs, etc etc. I have
adjusted the needles up and down with little if any improvement (or
… more deleted

The throttle bypass valve is closed only at ROOM temperature. When the engine
warms up it opens a bit, as I recall from my rebuild. This could be a problem.
LLoyd
BTW, these carbs are the easiest I have ever rebuilt. It was fun, maybe I’ll
do it for others when I grow up. Cost only about $20.00 each to do!

From: Curt Onstott onstottc@ucs.orst.edu
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 1996 09:01:24 -0800
Subject: re: Engine noise (xk six cyl.)

I’ve been having a similar problem, I traced mine to a leaking exhaust
valve. At first I suspected tappet guides, but since I’ve fitted a
stakedown kit and there was no evidence that the cam had been hitting
the guide, I decided to check valve clearances.

It turned out that my number four exhaust valve had a clearance of
zero-- and the cylinder was not producing any power. (The clearance had
changed by .030 and the valve was not closing.) A compression check did
not show any difference between the dead cylinder and the others. I
reshimmed the valve and the noise almost went away. Before, the noise
was constant and did not stop when I pulled the wire for that cylinder.
Also, the idle did not change.

After reshimming, the noise is much more intermittant and stops
completely when I pull the wire for that cylinder. Also, the engine
slows down when i pull the wire for that cylinder. I just got a head
set, exhaust valve and seat from SICP and plan on pulling the head this
weekend to see what’s going on.

-Pessimist: “This ship is sinking.” -Optimist: “This ship is half full.”

Curt Onstott - Windows/DOS/PC Specialist - Information Services -
Oregon
State University. - (541) 737-1483 - Office: Kerr 217

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 12:36:02 -0005
Subject: re: E-Type list

David J Shield:

My test question is, would a E-Type list enhance the discussions amongst
E-Type owners? Would the participation be more active?

Most certainly. See, for every member of jag-lovers, there are a
dozen or more Jaguar enthusiasts who don’t subscribe simply because
they don’t have the time or inclination to wade through dozens of
messages each day. If there is a separate E list, the E owners can
join JUST that list. And those who DO like all the traffic can
easily subscribe to both lists.

Creation of such “spinoff” lists should also reduce the traffic on
jag-lovers, since much E-type-specific discussion can be kept to the
E list.

Every time this issue comes up – which is too damn often –
everybody posts their “vote”, as though this were a democracy or
something. It’s not a democracy – if you want an E list, CREATE
ONE, don’t bother asking. If people want such a thing, they will
come, if they don’t, it’ll die of lack of interest. Meanwhile, to
everyone who cannot resist the temptation to post yet another message
about whether they think it’d be a good idea, bad idea, whatever: we
don’t care!

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 12:36:02 -0005
Subject: Steering Wheel Adjustment

Jim Isbell:

If you have an adjustable column like the XJ-S and XJ6 try readjusting the
height of the wheel to get yourself home without atracting too much
attention.

The PO said he had never had a problem with
it so I adjusted it back (all the way in, the PO is BIG)…

This makes no sense, Jim. The taller a person is, the farther
rearward he should have the steering wheel – outward, IOW. If the
PO had it all the way in, he must have been a short person.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: “Claus, Mike” claus@wg.com
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 96 12:37:31 EST
Subject: News: XJ-S Center Console Cover for sale

I have the center console cover for a '93 XJ-S. I don’t know for sure,
but it will probably fit earlier cars as well. It is in absolutely
perfect condition. I replaced it only because I installed a phone in my
car and so now have the console cover with the phone cut-out.

It is the tan color that Jaguar calls Barley. Trim code AFW.

I have no idea what it is worth - make me an offer.

Contact me whatever way is easiest for you.

e-mail: claus@wg.com
phone: 919-941-5740 x2602 (office)
919-847-8060 (home)

From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 12:25:00 -0600
Subject: Re: 85 XJS HE Alternator

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_01BBCBDD.8757A6A0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I think I found the problem, for those interested. My Alternator
has a burnt “rectifier” according to the auto electric expert. He
is going to replace this part, turn the armature, set new berings
and brushes plus check the diodes for $200 +/- with a one year
gaurantee, Good price??? Anyone have any comments on the Bosch
replacement???

FISH

I replaced my alternator with a rebuilt one for $150 US$.

Jon
87 XJS

I work in a small auto repair shop, actually it’s just me and the fella
who ows the shop. We work on all models and makes but I love the
Jags and we have a good customer base for the cats. I have become
familiar with several good local and national source for parts. When
we need to have alternators or starters I use a local rebuilder. I recently
had an alternator for an 84 XJ6 rebuilt, the rebuilder put in a bridge
rectifier, a diode trio, bearings & brush set… the price? $84.36 and
that included tax. The moral? Be willing to look into options that at
first might not seem like they work. I know for myself I often just call
the parts house to get my parts, but when I get quotes of 250+ for
alternators I get out the yellow pages and let my fingers put the money
saved in my pocket.

Tim Blystone
pcsolutions@mindspring.com

------=_NextPart_000_01BBCBDD.8757A6A0
Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

>> I think I found the problem, = for those interested. My Alternator
>> has a burnt = "rectifier" according to the auto electric expert. = He
>> is going to replace this part, turn the armature, = set new berings
>> and brushes plus check the diodes for $200 = +/- with a one year
>> gaurantee, Good price??? = Anyone have any comments on the Bosch
>> = replacement???
>>
>> FISH

> I replaced my = alternator with a rebuilt one for $150 US$.
>
> Jon
> = 87 XJS

I work in a small auto repair shop, actually it's just me = and the fella
who ows the shop. We work on all models and makes but I = love the
Jags and we have a good customer base for the cats. I have = become
familiar with several good local and national source for = parts. When
we need to have alternators or starters I use a local = rebuilder. I recently
had an alternator for an 84 XJ6 rebuilt, the = rebuilder put in a bridge
rectifier, a diode trio, bearings & = brush set... the price? $84.36 and
that included tax. The moral? Be = willing to look into options that at
first might not seem like they = work. I know for myself I often just call
the parts house to get my = parts, but when I get quotes of 250+ for
alternators I get out the = yellow pages and let my fingers put the money
saved in my = pocket.

Tim = Blystone
pcsolutions@mindspring.com

- ------=_NextPart_000_01BBCBDD.8757A6A0--

From: "esvax::mrgate::a1::abbottsd"@esvax.dnet.dupont.com
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 96 14:03:27 EST
Subject: XJS Convertibles

From: NAME: Scot D. ABBOTT
FUNC: ENGETL
TEL: 695-3930
To: “JAG-LOVERS@SN.NO”@ESDS01@MRGATE

                  INTEROFFICE MEMORANDUM

                               Date:     06-Nov-1996 12:50pm
                               From:     Scot D. ABBOTT
                                         ABBOTTSD
                               Dept:     ENGETL
                               Tel No:   695-3930

TO: Remote Addressee ( REMOTE ADDRESSEE ( “JAG-LOVERS@SN.NO”@ESDS01@MRGATE )

Subject: XJS convertibles

   Andy.Reynolds@lifesciences.com
   wrote:
  " ... During idle moments I sometimes think about about 
  buying
  a 10 year old XJS cheap, cutting off the top and re-spraying
  (as a 'small' hobby project), thus making a fine convertible.
  
  Perhaps someone could tell me why this is such a bad idea.
  
  Let's start with 'reduction of stiffness of monocoque' ..."
  
  MY ANSWER:
  
  	I've seen several XJS coupes made into convertibles. I also 
  saw several XJS bodies cut apart just for examination and 
  have experience evaluating convertible conversions.
  
  IMHO,
  
  	Changing the XJS unibody to open configuration must be done 
  with some care to minimize strength loss, and reasonable 
  stiffening elements can be added back to make a sound car. 
  This must be done properly and can be done in many ways.
  	
  Roof removal is NOT necessarily the main thing that can take 
  away body integrity/strength in a conversion.
  
   I cut the roof off an XJS, towed it on a dolly 2000 miles, 
  and still the door gaps remained the same. I could raise the 
  car with a jack and not twist or deform it significantly 
  differently from an XJS with its roof intact.
  
   Please note that I kept the sundeck/rearward bulkhead 
  intact.
  
  Compromise of the rear sundeck/rear bulkhead system or 
  removal of the rearward bulkhead (i.e. the sheetmetal wall 
  behind the rear seats and between the rear wheel wells) from 
  the XJS makes the car very flimsy, especially to torsion 
  stress, and it permits undue flexure during motoring which 
  will likely fatigue the sill/floor joints with time.
  
  Removing the rearward bulkhead is done to make room for a 
  large power top to fold down. An alternative to this is to 
  use a compact folding top and thus avoid creating the basic 
  problem.
  
  A commercial version of this conversion design strategy is 
  available locally ( Driver's Seat of Delaware, Inc., Box 542 
  Montchannin, DE 19710, 302-998-7889).

From: “George W. Cohn” gwcohn@azstarnet.com
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 1996 13:00:21 -0700
Subject: Starting an E-type Mailing List

OK people, the majordomo account for the XKE-lovers list has been set
up. Give me a day to put together the info file and some FAQ’s and
we’re in business. My apologies to Nick for the list name but I needed
to think up something quickly. I hope you don’t mind.

I don’t forsee this as a replacement for this forum at all but rather as
another venue for those with E-types to communicate with each other. I,
as well as most of the others will probably still hang around here every
day.

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #500

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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 7 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 501

Wheel Bearings
Steering Wheel Adjustment
Steering Wheel Adjustment
Big socket wanted
Steering Rack (XJ6 and XJ-S) (maybe others as well)
XJ6 antenna - Gregory Andrachuk
Windshield Washer Pump Question (Glass)
Re: Big socket wanted
Re: Steering Rack (XJ6 and XJ-S) (maybe others as well)
Where’s the HP?
Re: Steering Rack (XJ6 and XJ-S) (maybe others as well)
Protective Door Side Mouldings
Virus Info - Beware
Re: Canister in front fender well…
XJ6 Rack Boots
Windshield Washer Pump Question, Take 2
xke-lovers mailing list now on line!
Jaguar Chat Room
XJ-S Fuel Cut-off switch: side comment on interesting experiences
Re: About Jaguar
Re: Virus Info - Beware
Re: Steering Rack (XJ6 and XJ-S) (maybe others as well)

From: hached01@bh.bbc.co.uk (Dieter Hachenberg)
Date: 06 Nov 96 20:08:25 GMT
Subject: Wheel Bearings

How difficult is it to change the rear wheel bearings on my '86 Series 3
XJ6? Or should I take it to the dealer!

Dieter Hachenberg

From: “Kirbert” palmk%gcn.scri.fsu.edu@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 12:36:02 -0005
Subject: Steering Wheel Adjustment

LOL, Kirby and Jim. After visiting Sicily I see why the FIAT’s are built the wa
y they are.

----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Jim Isbell:

The PO said he had never had a problem with
it so I adjusted it back (all the way in, the PO is BIG)…

This makes no sense, Jim. The taller a person is, the farther
rearward he should have the steering wheel – outward, IOW. If the
PO had it all the way in, he must have been a short person.

------ original message end
Jim is saying the PO was BIG as in fat. The wheel had to be all the way IN
to get his gut in front of it. Kirby is thinking the PO was TALL, so needed
to put the seat and wheel baaaaaaack to make leg room.
HAHAHA LLoyd

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 15:28:19 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Steering Wheel Adjustment

Kirbert, you dont listen, or is that “read” real close. I said the PO was
BIG, not TALL. He weighs in at about 300 or so I have been told (I never
met him). For you Limeys, thats 300 pounds, not stone…#8-)

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: David Covert davecove@microsoft.com
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 13:30:39 -0800
Subject: Big socket wanted

Can anyone suggest where I might be able to get a 1 5/16" deep*
socket? Sears had no such animal… biggest deep they had was 1 1/4"…

*2" - 2 1/2" deep

Dave Covert
'73 XJ12

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 15:39:36 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Steering Rack (XJ6 and XJ-S) (maybe others as well)

I have decided that I need to overhaul or replace the steering rack in my
XJ-S even though the PO replaced it just a year ago.

Should I overhaul it or replace it. My usualy reliable Jag mechanic
says overhaul is beyond the DO IT Yourself level and refuses to even do it
himself but replaces them with rebuilt units.

He charges $550 for the unit (parts cost) plus labor.

2.) Is it realy beyond the DIY level?

3.) Cant they be had cheaper than that in rebuilt form?

4.)Why is a year old unit “lumpy”. (No I dont mean it has anything to do
with a Cheby…#8-)

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: per@quantum.ece.ucsb.edu (Per Stenius)
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 96 14:25:18 PST
Subject: XJ6 antenna - Gregory Andrachuk

Sorry for posting this, but I lost Gregory’s email address and cannot connect
to him directly. Basically he told me that a Series 2 power antenna should
fit a Series 1, and below is my question regarding this:

Thanks for your mail! One question though: the series 1 had 2 fuel tanks, which
makes the left rear wing where the antenna is mounted very cramped. Did the
series 2 also have this situation? If not, I could imagine that the series 2
antenna might be too space consuming for a series 1?
Baard told me that when he put in his Bosch antenna, the fit was very tight and
he had to bend some of the light connectors etc. to fit the antenna.

Per

PS. My last request for personal Jag related www-pages gave some result, but
I can fit more… So if you have a www page with Jag content, send me a mail
and I’ll add a link to your page from mine.

Per Stenius (http://www.ece.ucsb.edu/SQO/Per/)
Email: per@quantum.ece.ucsb.edu

From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 15:26:01 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Windshield Washer Pump Question (Glass)

Does anyone know of a source for the rubber tubing that is used on the
holder for the glass bottle style windshield washer pump? I just acquired a
complete pump assembly, but need to replace this rubber. ('62 E FHC)
Thanks!
Hunt

From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 15:28:40 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Big socket wanted

You might see if a mechanic would get you one from Mac Tools or Snap-on (be
prepared to really pay!). I’ve done this for several odd-ball wrenched.
You must want to turn the crank? I borrowed the biggest box wrench I’ve ever
seen, from my brother, who got it for that one purpose.
Good luck!
Hunt

At 01:30 PM 11/6/96 -0800, you wrote:

Can anyone suggest where I might be able to get a 1 5/16" deep*
socket? Sears had no such animal… biggest deep they had was 1 1/4"…

*2" - 2 1/2" deep

Dave Covert
'73 XJ12

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 00:33:56 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: Steering Rack (XJ6 and XJ-S) (maybe others as well)

I have decided that I need to overhaul or replace the steering rack in my
XJ-S even though the PO replaced it just a year ago.

Just curious, what’s wrong with your rack ? leaks ? BTW, I think the
latest XJ-S has a ZF rack if I remember well. Don’t know if this is cheaper
or would fit earlier cars.

- Matthias

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 18:44:40 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Where’s the HP?

I have read several reviews of the new Ferrari Maranello. Front
engine, GT tourer, 2+ seating – gee, sounds like an XJ-S. Five point
something 60 degree V12 engine – gee, sounds like an XJ-S. 450 HP –
HEY!!

OK, where is the missing HP in our V12s? Certainly not
compression ratio. Intakes? Cams? Heads? More valves? Better tuning?
All of the above?

I know Kirby would like to see a 7.4 liter V12 (and there
is certainly nothing wrong with that!) but has anyone seen a lot more
power and how did you do it? Chad, you out there?

Oh, yeah – Nitrous doesn’t count!!

John
Horsepressure challenged XJ-S

From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 1996 16:07:24 -0800
Subject: Re: Steering Rack (XJ6 and XJ-S) (maybe others as well)

The ZF rack won’t fit in an early V12 XJS. It was made for the 6 cylinder
subframe. It is also definitely more expensive.

At 12:33 AM 11/7/96 +0100, Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR wrote:

I have decided that I need to overhaul or replace the steering rack in my
XJ-S even though the PO replaced it just a year ago.

Just curious, what’s wrong with your rack ? leaks ? BTW, I think the
latest XJ-S has a ZF rack if I remember well. Don’t know if this is cheaper
or would fit earlier cars.

Matthias

From: ajbeale@squirrel.com.au (A.J. Beale)
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 10:21:03 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Protective Door Side Mouldings

When I bought my first Jaguar, I was curious to know why S3s and XJ40s did
not have these side mouldings. A dealer told me that they were only fitted
if requested by the customer, as most buyers thought they spoiled the Jag’s
lines. I thought that the door dings and paint chips spoiled the lines
more, so fitted some inexpensive self-adhesive mouldings. A wide range of
these are sold in Australia by automotive shops. Alan.

From: Matthew Waite MWaite@tasman.com.au
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 11:50:17 +1100
Subject: Virus Info - Beware

Please note the following and pass the message to everyone you know.

Hello, everyone! This message is extremely important. It is about
a very highly intelligent virus that is being spread nationwide called
“Good Times”. Once you have read this message, please forward to anyone you
care about. Thanks.

SUBJECT: [Very Important !!! ]

There is a computer virus that is being sent across the Internet. If you
receive an e-mail message with the subject line “Good
Times”, DO NOT read the message, DELETE it immediately. Please read the
messages below. Some miscreant is sending e-mail under the title “Good
Times”
nationwide, if you get anything like this, DON’T DOWN LOAD THE FILE! It has
a
virus that rewrites your hard drive, obliterating anything on it.

Please be careful and forward this mail to anyone you care about.

The FCC released a warning last Wednesday concerning a matter of
major importance to any regular user of the Internet. Apparently a new
computer virus has been engineered by a user of AMERICA ON LINE that is
unparalleled in its destructive capability. Other more well-known viruses
such as “Stoned”, “Airwolf” and “Michaelangelo” pale in comparison
to the prospects of this newest creation by a warped mentality. What makes
this virus so terrifying, said the FCC, is the fact that no program needs to
be exchanged for a new computer to be infected. It can be spread
through the existing e-mail systems of the Internet. Once a Computer is
infected, one of several things can happen. If the computer contains a
hard
drive, that will most likely be destroyed. If the program is not stopped,
the
computer’s processor will be placed in
an nth-complexity infinite binary loop -which can severely damage the
processor if left running that way too long.

Unfortunately, most novice computer users will not realize what is
happening
until it is far too late. Luckily, there is one sure means of detecting what
is now known as the “Good Times” virus. It always travels to new computers
the
same way in a text e-mail message with the subject line reading “Good
Times”.
Avoiding infection is easy once the file has been received simply by NOT
READING IT! The act of loading the file into the mail server’s ASCII buffer
causes the “Good Times” mainline program to initialize and execute.

The program is highly intelligent- it will send copies of itself to
everyone
whose e-mail address is contained in a receive-mail file or a sent-mail
file,
if it can find one. It will then proceed to trash the computer it is running
on.

The bottom line is: - if you receive a file with the subject line “Good
Times”, delete it immediately! Do not read it" Rest assured that whoever’s
name was on the “From” line was surely struck by the virus. Warn
your friends and local system users of this newest threat to the Internet!
It
could save them a lot of time and money.

Could you pass this along to your global mailing list as well?

DO NOT DOWNLOAD ANY FILE NAMED PKZIP300 REGARDLESS OF THE EXTENSION

We work closely with the military and received this message from a very
reliable source in DC this morning.

A NEW Trojan Horse Virus has emerged on the internet with the name
PKZIP300.ZIP, so named as to give the impression that this file is a new
version of the PKZIP software used to “ZIP” (compress) files.

DO NOT DOWNLOAD this file under any circumstances!!!

If you install or expand this file, the virus WILL wipe your hard disk clean
and affect modems at 14.4 and higher. This is an extremely destructive virus
and there is NOT yet a way of cleaning up this one.

REPEAT: DO NOT DOWNLOAD ANY FILE NAMED PKZIP300 REGARDLESS OF THE EXTENSION

Sorry about the length of the message

Mwaite@tasman.com.au
S1 '73 XJ6

From: “Robert Johnson, D.Sc.” bjomejag@sover.net
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 1996 20:17:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Canister in front fender well…

theo bremner wrote:

Since there were no replies when I posted this a few days ago I will ask
againn maybe it didn’t go out or something…I was doing the front
brakes on my Sov SIII 1985 and saw a Square Canister in the passenger
side fender well mounted toward the front and toward the engine
…To my dismay this canister is rotted from the bottom and a chunk of
crud fell out upon inspection. It has a tube going in and out and some
say it is to do with the fuel but I’m in the fog on this one. Any
input?

Thanks in advance
Theo
tbremner@lynx.neu.edu

This sounds like the activated charcoal cannistor. It is
used to absorb gasoline vapor from the intake manifold. I
have seen them rust out and drop the bottom from the can.
The replacement SIII element is made of plastic. It requires
modification of the attachment strap.

Hope this helps,
Bob Johnson
Brattleboro, Vt.
XJ50, XJ12L, XJS

From: Chris Walker cbwiii@adnc.com
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 17:28:29 -0800
Subject: XJ6 Rack Boots

Hi Jag-Lovers,
My New (to me) '79 XJ6 needs to have the front steering boots replaced. I’m
game, but was wondering which is the better route to take:

Loosen the tie rod from the tie rod end and slip the boot assemply into
place, or
Undo the tie rod from the steering rack.
At first glance, it looks like option 1 is better (I know, count the
threads, twice!)

If, worst case, the steering rack needs replacement (it makes a grumbling
noise which diminished quite a bit when I added fluid!), what’s a ballpark
figure? Good source?
Thanks/

From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 17:49:39 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Windshield Washer Pump Question, Take 2

Thanks to all who have replied so far. I think I posed the question poorly,
so am reposting:

On a glass bottle Lucas washer pump, the glass bottle sits in a metal bracket. The metal bracket has black rubber material around its top, to pad between the glass jar and the metal bracket. It uses the same material below the jar to pad the underside. This material resembles soft rubber tubing, with a cross section that looks like this: _ | | | | | | |_| Does anyone know of a source for this material? I just acquired a complete pump assembly, but need to replace this rubber. Thanks! Hunt ('62 E FHC, flat floor, dirty windshield) From: George Cohn gwcohn@azstarnet.com Date: Wed, 06 Nov 1996 20:24:10 -0800 Subject: xke-lovers mailing list now on line! Okay everybody. I couldn’t beleive the number of responses I got to my offer of setting up an E-type mailing list! I have sent each one of you a personal welcome. For those of you who think this will split up the excellent jag-lovers list, I like to think that the xke-lovers list is kind of like the garage where you go to hang out with your buddies and escape the spouse! There are times when you want to talk Brit cars in general and times when you want to play racer. This is where you can go to talk about it! To subscribe, send an e-mail message to majordomo@listserv.azstarnet.com with the words subscribe xke-lovers in the body. Welcome and Enjoy! From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 22:35:34 -0500 (EST) Subject: Jaguar Chat Room Group: Just discovered a Jaguar Chat Room on the web: http://www.classicar.com/chat.htm Mike Frank 1969 E-Type 2+2 From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik) Date: Wed, 06 Nov 1996 20:37:53 -0700 Subject: XJ-S Fuel Cut-off switch: side comment on interesting experiences Hi to all, Noticed a thread regarding the fuel cut-off switch…I had two interesting experiences with this technological marvel that you all may want to keep in mind… While running the car on mildly hot days (85-95 F, in Phoenix Arizona), and upon taking a tight, left turn at about 30 mph, I hit the brakes in the middle of the turn. Result… dead cat in the middle of the intersection…push the gas pedal and nothing happened. After coasting through the intersection spent half an hour scratching my head and looking at everything under the hood…After a while I gave up and opened the driver side door to retrieve some items before I set out for the service station down the road, as I opened the door I noticed that there was a red button sticking out of the black cut-off switch box mounted just inside the door frame that I had never noticed before…hoping againstall hope I pushed the little devil down, cranked the old cat up, and it roared again!!! Happened to me twice under the same circumstances: tight left turn, 30mph, hit the brakes = dead cat; re-set switch and cat is purring again. Has anyone else experienced this? Best regards Rob W-M 85 XJ-S From: jblair@exis.net (John T. Blair) (by way of jello@ida.net (Phil Bates)) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 20:39:16 -0700 Subject: Re: About Jaguar At 03:28 PM 11/6/96 MST, MICHIHIDE KANZAKI wrote:

The past Jaguar was great. It focused only on the nice body style.
Expensive, Noisy, Small room, classical engine…

After under control of Ford, Jaguar has lost its mind.
Yeah, British mind. The only purpose is to make money.

Is there any car which still has British mind?

Based on what you are saying, the only 2 cars currently in production
are the Marcos and the Morgan. Other than that, you’ll have to settle for
a used/older one.

I think this is not true. What about TVR?? and What about Rolls
Royce/Bently. I believe those three are still independent, although Rolls
has some joint venture type of relationships with other manufacturers, I
believe they are still owned by Vickers PLC. Lotus?? well, I’m not sure
about them, but they seem to continue to operate independently, although I
think they were recently sold to an Asian company.

From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 1996 22:56:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Virus Info - Beware

Good times virus time again???
This virus was proved to be a hoax a year ago!
Gads!
Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
'62 E-Type, ots, flat floor.

    -------------------------------------------------------------
"Laugh? I thought I'd die!" 
		       A. Boleyn
    -------------------------------------------------------------

From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 22:50:30 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Steering Rack (XJ6 and XJ-S) (maybe others as well)

I have decided that I need to overhaul or replace the steering rack in my
XJ-S even though the PO replaced it just a year ago.

2.) Is it realy beyond the DIY level?

Yes, and most shops.

3.) Cant they be had cheaper than that in rebuilt form?

Yes, but they don’t live. Street prices range from $300 to $800. $550 is
a decent price on a good one, or a crummy price for a boots-n-paint job.

4.)Why is a year old unit “lumpy”. (No I dont mean it has anything to do
with a Cheby…#8-)

There are three possible things here. Are the lumps cyclic, happening every
quarter/half/full turn of the steering wheel? If so, it’s one of the u-joints
in the steering column seizing. If it happens just when you start turning the
wheel, initial motion is stiff, then it’s a sludgy spool valve, or leaking
seal there-on. See above. If it only happens at a certain point of rack
travel, then suspect a bent rack, or seized ball-joint.

    JIM I.

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #501

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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 7 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 502

Re: V-12 E-type carbs
Re: About Jaguar
Heater Valve for 420G
Re: V2 #499 - SS100 IN OZ
Heater Valve for 420G
Re: 1985 BATHURST (JAGUAR XJS) VIDEO.
Virus Info - Beware
Re: Windshield Washer Pump Question (Glass)
XJ6 For sale (South Africa)
Re: Re: About Jaguar
RE: E-Type 2+2 S1: wheels & tires
Lingual complications. (No jag-content)
E-Type retractable seat belts
XJ6 Series I; Power antenna and radio.
Re: XJ6 Rack Boots
Re: Where’s the HP?
Re: XJ6 For sale (South Africa)
SS100 (not real), XK list
Re: XKE windshield rubber
'70 E-type for sale (Again?)

From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 22:43:03 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: V-12 E-type carbs

----------------------------Original message----------------------------
I have a Jaguar 1972 XKE V12 with 4 stromberg CD175 carbs. It doesn’t run
right at all. I bought the car several yars ago and have been fixing it
… deleted stuff…
taken the carbs apart, cleaned them, installed new diaphragms and grose-jet
needles, set and checked the float height, I have plugged the air injection
ports, blocked the throttle bypass valves in the carbs, etc etc. I have
adjusted the needles up and down with little if any improvement (or
… more deleted

The throttle bypass valve is closed only at ROOM temperature. When the engine
warms up it opens a bit, as I recall from my rebuild. This could be a problem.
LLoyd
BTW, these carbs are the easiest I have ever rebuilt. It was fun, maybe I’ll
do it for others when I grow up. Cost only about $20.00 each to do!

Lloyd, your talking about the temperature compensator. He was talking about
the throttle bypass valves, better known as over-run valves. Blanking these
off will cause the car to stall in traffic (stopping for lights and such).
You are correct, these carbs are easy to rebuild. There aren’t that many parts,
and no small ones. However, they are also really easy to screw up royally.
Float level is critical, as is choosing the proper needle and seat, and it’s
spacing washer. Subtle hint here. I throw all grosse-jets in the trash
without a second glance. Those things may work in some car, but in 20+ years
I haven’t met it.

To the original poster…

Different needles will not solve a low speed running problem. You have access
to more than enough adjustment to set the mixture any place needed at low
speed with the stock jets. The fact that the adjustments don’t appear to change
anything points to a problem elsewhere. Step one is to check for vacuum
leaks. The brake booster plumbing a common source.

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Thu, 07 Nov 1996 00:10:23 -0500
Subject: Re: About Jaguar

At 03:28 PM 11/6/96 MST, MICHIHIDE KANZAKI wrote:

The past Jaguar was great. It focused only on the nice body style.
Expensive, Noisy, Small room, classical engine…
After under control of Ford, Jaguar has lost its mind.
Yeah, British mind. The only purpose is to make money.

May I help you, out?

Jag-haters are over there----------------------->(keep going!)

Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
'62 E-Type, ots, flat floor.

    -------------------------------------------------------------
"Laugh? I thought I'd die!" 
		       A. Boleyn
    -------------------------------------------------------------

From: “B. Askew” askewb@global.co.za
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 07:09:55 -0200 (GMT)
Subject: Heater Valve for 420G

Does anyone out there know of a source for a heater valve for a '69 420G.
One of my fellow club members is in need of one - he’s using a modified
water tap at the moment!

Thanks in advance.

Regards Brian

'64 Mk II 86 XJSC

From: jagmag@ecn.net.au (Hughes Graphics and Design)
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 14:57:03 +1000
Subject: Re: V2 #499 - SS100 IN OZ

I noted with interest the SS Jaguar 100 for sale in Sydney mentioned by Jim
Ellis, and which is advertised as a concours winner.

After a little investigation I have it on very good authority that this car
is a fake SS Jaguar 100 built up using a ‘MkIV’ chassis. Apparently, it
started out at over A$125,000, is now under A$100,000 and I am told the
trophy is for the ‘Specials’ class and not the SS catagory.

This is not the first fake SS Jaguar 100 which has been created and offered
for sale in Australia. Two others were exposed, one went to ground, but the
other (which we featured in the Australian Jaguar Magazine before we knew
about it - but later printed the truth behind it) was sold into Japan I am
told - as the real thing!

Hopefully, mediums such as the intenet, and Jag-Lovers in this instance,
will assist in exposing fakes of all marques and models. Creating such cars
is a very highly organised and professional business which has been around
for many years. It catches many innocent folks who, in order to protect
their investment, mostly end up perpetuating the myth of their particular
fake vehicle.

It is a never-ending subject, but the golden rules to buying an investment
car are to establish a continuous history for any vehicle - if it has
disappeared, but then comes back some time later - be very wary. Don’t take
someone’s word for its history, you need documented proof - you wouldn’t
trust someone’s word if he tried to sell you a DiVinci.

Also check with many of the experts and books when it comes to things like
C, D and Lwt. E-Types etc., - Andrew Whyte’s book may be getting a little
older now, but you will find out the history of each of those cars (or check
with Ole Sommer in Copenhagen who has continued Andrew’s listing and
updating of all the owners and he grades each car on condition and
authenticity).

Finally, the golden rule when it comes to repaired original cars, and cast
off pieces which have been re-engineered into duplicates of the same vehicle
is - the ‘genuine one is the one the owner intended to rebuild is the real
car’ - anything else is spares or scrap!

Sorry to go on about this so much, but if these types of people tried to
sell a fake work from the Louve they would end up in goal - but fake cars
seems to pretty much go un-noticed.

Good luck

LES. HUGHES

From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Thu, 07 Nov 96 00:35:07 EST
Subject: Heater Valve for 420G

From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
*** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FE21
*** INTERNET - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM *** IBMMAIL - AUIBMSPM ****
Subject: Heater Valve for 420G

I’ve heard that an everyday ford heater tap can be used no problem…I
have to replace it on my 420g when I get it back, so would like to know
how you go…

REGARDS…Shane
* Forwarding note from SMTP4 --IINUS1 11/07/96 16:32 *

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From: “B. Askew” askewb@global.co.za
Subject: Heater Valve for 420G
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Does anyone out there know of a source for a heater valve for a '69 420G.
One of my fellow club members is in need of one - he’s using a modified
water tap at the moment!

Thanks in advance.

Regards Brian

'64 Mk II 86 XJSC

From: Jim Ellis jellis@metz.une.edu.au
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 18:00:13 +1100 (EST)
Subject: Re: 1985 BATHURST (JAGUAR XJS) VIDEO.

The saga continues …;

I have just received an e-mail from a Miss Lesa McLaren of Duke (?) Video
Enterprises, located in the U.K. She says:

    *****

" The Video of the 1985 Bathurst 1000 Touring Car Race is available, but not
in NTSC format unfortunately. It is priced at =A3STLG12.99, it’s 60 min long
and the order code is 3375.

If you would like to order the video you can e-mail me direct on ;

    duke.video@enterprise.net=20

incidentally, if you e-mail me with your address I can send you out=20
our new catalogue containing our full video range."
```
 ******
```

This location may suit members located in Europe (and possibly ‘North
Americans’ also?) better than the previous ‘downunder’ source.

=20

regards,

Jim Ellis.

1963 Daimler 2.5L v8 saloon (and lots of automotive videos!) .
Jim Ellis
Internal Auditor
University of New England,=20
N.S.W. 2351.
AUSTRALIA.

'phone: (067) 733497;
[national: +61 67 733497;]

fax: (067) 733314;
=20
e-mail: jellis@metz.une.edu.au

From: David Hurlston viadata@mindspring.com
Date: Thu, 07 Nov 1996 01:18:31 -0600
Subject: Virus Info - Beware

Subject: Virus Info - Beware

Please note the following and pass the message to everyone you know.

No, please don’t! This is baloney
Dave
David Hurlston, ViaData Incorporated

From: ffilangeri@juno.com (Frank A Filangeri)
Date: Thu, 07 Nov 1996 01:03:06 EST
Subject: Re: Windshield Washer Pump Question (Glass)

Hi Hunt,

I had the same problem and wound up using a length of heavy wall black
shrink tubing. Slip it on, hit it with a heat gun and it conforms
perfectly to the frame. Looks great when done! If you try this cut it
long and trim the ends after it shrinks.

Frank
62 E OTS flat floor
66 Healey 3000

On Wed, 6 Nov 1996 15:26:01 -0800 (PST) Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net writes: Does anyone know of a source for the rubber tubing that is used on the holder for the glass bottle style windshield washer pump? I just acquired a complete pump assembly, but need to replace this rubber. ('62 E FHC) Thanks! Hunt From: “Pierre Britz” PB@ing1.rau.ac.za Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 09:48:22 GMT+2 Subject: XJ6 For sale (South Africa) I know we have only a few members in South Africa but please do not get to upset with me for posting this to the group. I need to get rid of my XJ6 lwb Because my wife to be in 2 weeks time does not like the car at all. I have replaced it with a Mercedes benz 380SE. The Jag handels beter, feels more like a real car and is more comfortable. But alas she must go. 1978 XJ6 lwb (exe in S.A.) origional motor. had it resprayed origional gray in December last year. Have been using it every day up to two weeks aga when I baught the merc. Pierre @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ @ @ @ @@@ PIERRE BRITTZ @@@ @ @ @ @ NETWERK ADMIN @ NETWORK ADMIN @ @ RANDSE AFRIKAANSE UNIVERSITEIT @ RAND AFRIKAANS UNIVERSITY @ @ TEL. (011) 489-2658 @ TEL. (011) 489-2658 @ @ +27 11 489-2658(Int) @ +27 11 489-2658(Int) @ @ TELEFAX (011) 489-2357 @ TELEFAX (011) 4892357 @ @ +27 11 489-2357(Int) @ +27 11 489-2357(Int) @ @ E-POS: pb@ing1.rau.ac.za @ E-MAIL: pb@ing1.rau.ac.za @ @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ From: cuno@macworld.ch (Cuno Schneeberger) Date: 07 Nov 1996 08:50:57 GMT Subject: Re: Re: About Jaguar At 03:28 PM 11/6/96 MST, MICHIHIDE KANZAKI wrote:

The past Jaguar was great. It focused only on the nice body style.
Expensive, Noisy, Small room, classical engine…

What you are looking for are the TVR cars. All you get for a lot of money is
a nice body style, a noisy classical engine und small room… I thougt about
buying the Griffith 500 and keep it still in my mind, but 60’000 US$ (this is
Switzerland) for a car that has no pracitcal use value at all is a bit pricey
(great to drive though, loud, very fast and hard). So for the time beeing I
stick with my XJ-S.

Regards
Cuno

From: Stephan Perthes 100277.1037@CompuServe.COM
Date: 07 Nov 96 04:26:35 EST
Subject: RE: E-Type 2+2 S1: wheels & tires

Lauren:

Just in case you don’t know:

… I have a set of 5 new never mounted 185/15 red line tires …<<

Make sure those tires are not older than MAX. 3-4 years !
Also provided those tires were stored flat, not standing
at a wall, not lying one over another, dry, no oil etc. around.
Best way is to use a rack where the wheel can be fixed and the tire “swings free
in the air” (sorry for my bad English, but I think you’ll understand).

Rubber gets hard and dry over the years, so using “new never mounted” tires
which are in fact manufactured years ago can be very dangerous !!

Thre should be a (more or less) cryptic signature on each tire’s shoulder,
giving info about month and year of manufacturing. This is what we have on tires
in Europe. I think you should have similar, thanks to Ralph Nader …

Stephan Perthes / E-Type 2+2 S1 1966 3xSUHD8 LHD
mailto:100277.1037@compuserve.com
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Perthes/Jaglinks.htm
“Hope I die before I get old” (C) 1967 Pete Townshend/The Who.

----- Forwarded Message -----

TO: Stephan Perthes, 100277,1037
FROM: “Lauren E. Pratt”, INTERNET:pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
DATE: 06.11.1996, 19:46

Re: RE: E-Type 2+2 S1: wheels & tires

Stephan

Thanks for your reply on the 205/70/15 tires. It is nice to
be able to learn from other people’s experience. I have a set
of 5 new never mounted 185/15 red line tires that I may mount
on my 5 inch wheels for the time being (when I get the car back
together next summer). These would be proper for show, but a
set of 6 inch wheels with 205’s mounted and at the ready for
driving would be nice.

TIA is short for Thanks In Advance

Cheers Lauren

Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 11/6/96
Time: 12:23:39 PM

This message was sent by Chameleon

From: Stephan Perthes 100277.1037@CompuServe.COM
Date: 07 Nov 96 04:26:38 EST
Subject: Lingual complications. (No jag-content)

Charles:

I’m living near Frankkirt (Germany).

The Benz ad you saw should have read “Fuer grosse Fahrt!” (singular)
or “Fuer grosse Fahrten!” (plural). Which just means “for grand/big/long
tour(s)”.

The “ue” in “Fuer” we normally write as “u” with two little dots on top.
Can’t do this within Internet as these are special European language characters
(same with a = ae and o = oe).

BTW: “AUSFAHRT” just means EXIT. Not too far away from what English speaking
people have in mind when reading “fahrt” … ! ?

An don’t forget - just in case - Open your window !!!

Stephan Perthes / E-Type 2+2 S1 1966 3xSUHD8 LHD
mailto:100277.1037@compuserve.com
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Perthes/Jaglinks.htm
“Hope I die before I get old” (C) 1967 Pete Townshend/The Who.

From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 1996 08:28:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Lingual complications. (No jag-content)

Bard wrote, in part;

A UK collegue was appalled when we drove the Autobahn towards Frankfurt
a.M. All
the exits were marked Ausfahrt.

This story reminds me of a very early, probably 1930’s,
early '40’s, poster, advertising Benz.
All in German, the last line read something like;
“Fur Grande (or Grosse, I forget which) Fahrts!”

My English-speaking mind read it as;
“For Big Farts!”
(not far wrong!)
Best back,
Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
'62 E-Type, ots, flat floor.

From: Stephan Perthes 100277.1037@CompuServe.COM
Date: 07 Nov 96 04:27:02 EST
Subject: E-Type retractable seat belts

Barry:

Sorry, but my English is too poor that I could describe EXACTLY where I have the mounting points
in my car. I think best way would be photos of inside my Jag, but this will take some time. Do you want me to
take pics and send them to you? I could also try to scan and send UUEncoded files via Internet.

I’m still searching myself for new belts, didn’t find them so far.

But I received the following tip just a few days ago:
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Subject: Re: E-Type 2+2 S1 1966 seats & belts

" … You can use the seat belts from any Series III E type. These have a
neat, self-contained, automatic retractor mechanism, and should bolt in with
little or no modification. If XK Unlimited cannot supply new, Jag Heaven may
have a nice set of used.

Mike Frank - 1969 E-Type 2+2".
I didn’t check Jag heaven until now. Too much work (for making money to spend on my restoration

You could also check some of the web sites linked below. I’ll do the same.

Maybe anybody else from JAG-LOVERS can give quicker advice to Barry?

Stephan Perthes / E-Type 2+2 S1 1966 3xSUHD8 LHD
mailto:100277.1037@compuserve.com
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Perthes/Jaglinks.htm
“Hope I die before I get old” (C) 1967 Pete Townshend/The Who.

----- Forwarded Message -----

TO: Stephan Perthes, 100277,1037
FROM: “Barry Cooper”, INTERNET:b.w.cooper@acslink.aone.net.au
DATE: 07.11.1996, 03:48

Re: E-Type retractable seat belts

Stephan.

Can you advise how retractable seat belts are fitted to a fixed head
E-Type? I would like to fit retractables to my short wheel base FHC but
have not seen any in any of the reference books. Any information would be
appreciated, such as - Make or model of seat belts; Mounting points for top
belt; etc.

Thanks and Regards

Barry Cooper
Mackay Qld
Australia
68 E FHC

From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 10:43:11 -0800
Subject: XJ6 Series I; Power antenna and radio.

Hi all,
Per was asking about the above. Due to structural changes within January '71,
the front fender could no longer receive the radio arial (antenna) thus,
subsequently virtually all arials were fitted to the rear fender instead, apart
from the very few who chose the more expensive option of a roof mounted antenna.
I seem to remember (have to investigate) having seen provisions for attaching an
original power antenna to the left in my fuel pump compartment… Does anyone
know for sure that power antennas were fitted to Series I XJs?

As to the radio/cassette players, there is no mentioning in any literature I’ve
read of any unit being fitted as standard. I’d imagine that any period
radio/cassette player would be fine. In my XJ6 Series I 1973 I’ve fitted a
Becker Grand Prix (from my dad’s '68 Mercedes 250). It’s a mono radio without a
cassette player, and it’s only got 7W output, but the sound through the two hat
shelf mounted Pioner Airlinks is just great; beats the hell out of the
Blaupunkt 2x20W in my G-Wagen.

Not until April 1977 the Series II XJ received a Phillips AC460 (mono) with four
speakers. XJ Series III 3.4 and 4.2 got the same unit as standard, whereas the
V12, Vanden Plas and Daimler received the AS860 (stereo) unit.

Have a nice day y’all!

Bard

______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 07:37:10 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ6 Rack Boots

Chris: I will sell you a rebuilt rack, with new boots and mounting
bushings for $395. plus freight and a $150 core charge.
The easy way to replace the boots is to remove the outer tie rod.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 07:33:20 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Where’s the HP?

John: I feel that my 83 XJ-S is making in the 400 HP range, 0-60 in 5
sec, will run the speedo off the end with ease. In a drag race with a 95
Camero Z-28 6sp, I just ran off and left him. The guy did not believe
that I had a Jag V-12 in the car, he was sure I had a V-8.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Thu, 07 Nov 1996 07:55:11 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ6 For sale (South Africa)

At 09:48 AM 07/11/96 GMT+2, Pierre wrote: (in part)

I need to get rid of my XJ6 lwb Because my wife to be in 2 weeks time
does not like the car at all. I have replaced it with a Mercedes benz
380SE. The Jag handels beter, feels more like a real car and is more
comfortable. But alas she must go.

Pierre,
Very telling “last sentence!”
Excellent choice! Perhaps after she’s gone she’ll miss you and you can
have your cat and eat it 2!
Best of Luck!
Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
'62 E-Type, ots, flat floor.

    -------------------------------------------------------------
"Laugh? I thought I'd die!" 
		       A. Boleyn
    -------------------------------------------------------------

From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@CompuServe.COM
Date: 07 Nov 96 08:09:35 EST
Subject: SS100 (not real), XK list

The SS100 referred to for sale in Sydney is a very nice car, but not a Jaguar
original (repro made from SS et al bits). There is another real one for sale
here with an authentic history, c AUD 180k, 2 1/2 litre.
Re the XK list: there are some who are on both JL and XKL, but I think
(impression only) it would be a smallish minority. The problem is the bulk of
messages for most people. But if that is not a problem, no reason why you
should not be on both of course. It is a question perhaps of how specialised
the interest in a particular model is. If some of you guys want a separate E
type list because otherwise you are going to drop out altogether, then do it and
see what happens. If the demand is there, it will flourish. I would not be at
all surprised if there was plenty of demand - the cars attract huge enthusiasm,
and are a little out of the mainstream of the XJ threads mostly on JL. There
also seem to be quite a few people who receive huge email each day, through
work, other interests etc, and it would be attractive to them. It works both
ways: I have to say that few of you would probably have had much interest in the
XKL recent thread re the colour of the piping under the rear number plate holder
of an XK140, so we have spared you that! And if you the owner of say a Mk 7 or
other 50s car ( XK vintage), you’d be welcome on the XK list of course.
Regards, John Elmgreen

From: Robert_Abascal@ccmail.orl.mmc.com
Date: Thu, 07 Nov 1996 08:08 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XKE windshield rubber

 Hunt Dabney asked about the rubber that goes around the washer bottle 
 bracket on the XKE.  I used heat shrink tubing which you can find at 
 an electronics store (Radio Shack, maybe) or if your lucky a well 
 stocked hardware store.  Get a size large enough to slip over the 
 bracket and then heat it up with a couple of matches.  The tubing will 
 shrink to surround the bracket.  It may not be an exact match of the 
 original but it's close enough.  
 
 Robert Abascal - '63 XKE OTS & '66 XKE Coupe

From: fcb@nbnet.nb.ca (Fred Bramston)
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 09:42:50 -0400
Subject: '70 E-type for sale (Again?)

I attempted to post this 3 days ago, but haven’t seen it returned to me via
the list, hence I assume I must have messed up some how. So here it goes again.

I recently saw in a local trader magazine one 1970 E-type OTS for sale as
follows.

1970 Jaguar XKE roadster complete but partially disassembled, 50k Miles,
needs work, but no restoration started, some extra parts, delivery could be
arranged. $8,900.00 (Canadian), partial trades bravely considered. call
506-357-6001 or fax to 506-385-1993, Oromocto ,N.B.(New Brunswick,Canada).

I don’t know anything other than as read, but anyone wants me to scoot up
and take a look for them I will. I attempted to call today but the owner
wasn’t in and the call answerer couldn’t help with the question “is the car
sold yet?”
If you wish to check first then call me I’d be willing to give as good and
objective an opinion as a jag-lover can. It’s a one hour drive from
here(Saint John,N.B.)
Cheerio,

-Fred
Looking for Bramstons in the world. Know some? E-mail me.Thanks.

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #502

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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 7 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 503

Re: Starting an E-type Mailing List,and why I joined it!
Re: pre-lube
Re: cancel subscription
RE: XJ6 For sale (South Africa)
Re: E-Type: Leaded / unleaded ?
Re: Heater valve for 420G
Re: AC Compressor Explanation needed…
'81-'86 Radio repair - all models
XJ6 Rack Boots
XJ6 For sale (South Africa)
Re: Virus Info - Beware
Another wimp.
Cats Cornering - General Driving Suggestion
Re: Vaccuum advance problem
WOW Chad’s XJ-S & GoodTimes
Re: Pierre’s Problem!
Hood blanket XJ6
ball joint questions
Re: WOW Chad’s XJ-S & GoodTimes
virus - apologies

From: fcb@nbnet.nb.ca (Fred Bramston)
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 09:52:00 -0400
Subject: Re: Starting an E-type Mailing List,and why I joined it!

OK people, the majordomo account for the XKE-lovers list has been set
up. Give me a day to put together the info file and some FAQ’s and
we’re in business. My apologies to Nick for the list name but I needed
to think up something quickly. I hope you don’t mind.

I don’t forsee this as a replacement for this forum at all but rather as
another venue for those with E-types to communicate with each other. I,
as well as most of the others will probably still hang around here every
day.

I signed up to help reduce the amount of mail on any one list. When I have a
V12 question or can respond to any other on the jag-lovers that’s where i’ll
be going.All other questions and answers which will be directly related to
E-types and only E-types will find me at XKE-lovers.I hope this will help
reduce the load on Nick and others. I will still be receiving both sets of
mail for as long as I am allowed. That’s all I’m going to say about it. Hope
y’all don’t get into another space and time wasting discussion. Big brother
just moved next door, that’s all.

-Fred.
Sorry for the equally annoying time wasted.
Looking for Ashoki Sujanani in the world. Know him? E-mail me.Thanks.

From: “The Honjos” fm7m-hnjy@asahi-net.or.jp
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 23:02:08 +0900
Subject: Re: pre-lube

    Some time (years?) ago I ran across adds for engine prelube
devices. One such was an electric pump which circulated sump oil prior to
startup. Another, as I recall, stored oil in a spring loaded cannister
which released the oil. The cannister was refilled by pressurized oil from
the engine oil pump.
Anyone have experience with these?
Joe
'66 E ots

I don’t think I saw too many postings on this one, but I know a guy
who got his pre-lube from XKs conforming more or less to the latter
variety. He says the pressure vessel was made of, American ingenuity
at work, recylcled Camping Gaz --or something similar-- gas tank).
The contraption now sits in his XJS engine room. He swears by the
system; says there’s nothing like it for making it softer for the
engine on a cold start on a winter morning. Kind of like getting a
little back rub before getting up in the morning I guess. Does anyone know
of a source (aside from XKs of course)?

Regards

Makoto Honjo
Phone/Fax +81-3-3473-1848

From: JeffBeyer@aol.com
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 08:56:00 -0500
Subject: Re: cancel subscription

pls cancel

From: “Connie Vloutely” connie_vloutely@macmail.git.gulfaero.com
Date: 7 Nov 1996 09:01:45 -0500
Subject: RE: XJ6 For sale (South Africa)

To Pierre,

IMHO I don’t Think you are making the right choice here. Take it from me, I
have been married for thirty 32 years. If your bride to be needs to change
you before she will marry your, you are not for her. Find yourself a new
mate.

The car you own does make you good or bad. I could see selling the Jaguar if
you could not afford it. But you bought a Mercedes benz.

Let her drive the Mercedes benz and you drive the Jaguar…

If you decide to marry this child, I suggest you save this email and read it
from time to time. You will understand the true meaning of this email the
longer you are married.

I started off just like you when I first got married. My father gave me the
same advice and I did not heed it. It has taken me 20 years to recover and get
my identity back.

Good Luck in your future marriage.

Constantine (Connie),

Savannah, Ga USA

From: pb@ing1.rau.ac.za on Thu, Nov 7, 1996 06:52 AM
Subject: XJ6 For sale (South Africa)
To: jag-lovers@sn.no

I know we have only a few members in South Africa but please do not
get to upset with me for posting this to the group.

I need to get rid of my XJ6 lwb Because my wife to be in 2 weeks time
does not like the car at all. I have replaced it with a Mercedes benz
380SE. The Jag handels beter, feels more like a real car and is more
comfortable. But alas she must go.

1978 XJ6 lwb (exe in S.A.) origional motor. had it resprayed
origional gray in December last year. Have been using it every day up
to two weeks aga when I baught the merc.

Pierre

@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@ @
@ @@@ PIERRE BRITTZ @@@ @
@ @
@ NETWERK ADMIN @ NETWORK ADMIN @
@ RANDSE AFRIKAANSE UNIVERSITEIT @ RAND AFRIKAANS UNIVERSITY @
@ TEL. (011) 489-2658 @ TEL. (011) 489-2658 @
@ +27 11 489-2658(Int) @ +27 11 489-2658(Int) @
@ TELEFAX (011) 489-2357 @ TELEFAX (011) 4892357 @
@ +27 11 489-2357(Int) @ +27 11 489-2357(Int) @
@ E-POS: pb@ing1.rau.ac.za @ E-MAIL: pb@ing1.rau.ac.za @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

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From: “Pierre Britz” PB@ing1.rau.ac.za
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 09:48:22 GMT+2
Subject: XJ6 For sale (South Africa)
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From: Stephan Perthes 100277.1037@CompuServe.COM
Date: 07 Nov 96 09:26:17 EST
Subject: Re: E-Type: Leaded / unleaded ?

Craig:

Just go on with unleaded. Should be no problem at all. Maybe better don’t push
the gas to the floor for more than 20 miles ;-)) (sorry, don’t know the English
word for “Gaspedal” - maybe it’s the same !?)

I live in Darmstadt (near Frankfurt/Main). Here are some nice Jag fellows (and
cars, of course !!), who meet every first Tuesday per month at 8.00 p.m. at
“Reiterschaenke” (“Horse’s restaurant” in Darmstadt-Kranichstein. So we just
met two days ago. It’s NOT necessary to attend with your Jag, any other car will
do ! But of course everybody’s happy for any BIG CAT around.

See my address / phone / fax below, and / or have a look at my web page. I am
just preparing some info about the “German section of Jaguar Enthusiast’s Club”
which is handled by Henning Zaiss. Henning lives also in Darmstadt. Right now
you’ll find only a JEC.GIF showing a scanned letter by Henning. Will be real
HTML & English translation soon.

As I think there might be some other Jag folks who could be interested in
contact, I post this mail to Jag-lovers and xke-lovers mailing-lists.

Stephan Perthes
phone Office: (++49) (0) 61 51 - 3 32 46
fax Office: (++49) (0) 61 51 - 31 82 28
location: Darmstadt, Germany (20 minutes from Frankfurt Airport).

E-Type 2+2 S1 1966 3xSUHD8 LHD
mailto:100277.1037@compuserve.com
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Perthes/Jaglinks.htm
“Hope I die before I get old” (C) 1967 Pete Townshend/The Who.

----- Forwarded Message -----

TO: Stephan Perthes, 100277,1037
FROM: Craig R. Hastings, INTERNET:hastings@frodo.eucom.mil
DATE: 07.11.1996, 12:02

Re: Re: E-Type: Leaded / unleaded ?

Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 10:53:28 GMT
From: hastings@frodo.eucom.mil (Craig R. Hastings)
To: 100277.1037@CompuServe.COM
Subject: Re: E-Type: Leaded / unleaded ?

Steve,

Thanks for the reply. The main reason I’m looking at the change is that
unleaded is the only fuel available for those of us here with the U.S. Forces.
Fortunately we don’t have to pay the high German tax for our plates as the cars
are plated by the U. S. Army. However we make up for it in insurance as they
have no way of insuring classical cars as low use vehicles. Just the normal
rates based on the value of the car. So I guess we break even in the end. Do
you currently live in Germany? If so, are you involved with any Jaguar clubs
here? I belong to the Jaguar Enthusiasts Club out of England but as yet have
not contacted the one here in Germany. Take care.

Craig
61 OTS
88VDP

From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 15:31:37 -0800
Subject: Re: Heater valve for 420G

Brian:

Does anyone out there know of a source for a heater valve for a '69 420G.
One of my fellow club members is in need of one - he’s using a modified
water tap at the moment!

Would that be the same kind of valve as for the XJ Series I? In that case I’m
your man; since I bought one believing that mine was “broke”, I have two!

It’s yours if you want it (and can afford it)

Bard

______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no

From: theo bremner tbremner@lynx.dac.neu.edu
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 09:38:52 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: AC Compressor Explanation needed…

Hello,

I posted a note about replacing bearings in an A/C compressor

and now that it is apart and better viewable I’m not sure that is what I
need exactly. The spindle where the belt goes is loose of the clutch is
it supposed to be rigidly connected or no. If so how is it connected
and if mine is loose what could I be missing or is it normal wear.
Anyone offer any technical explanation to how exactly the clutch works
on those things…

Thanks
Theo
'85 Sov SIII

From: RWOODLIN@garfield.foods.indiana.edu
Date: 07 Nov 96 09:44:11 EST
Subject: '81-'86 Radio repair - all models

Jim Brown and all others,

A few days ago Jim was looking for a repair shop for his radio. Jaguar
radios were manufactured by AutoSound Inc. (ASI) from 1981-86 model
years. ASI went out of business in 1986. All the parts were purchased
by Mike Lanham of Barley Creek Enterprises/Jaguar. Mike will repair
these radios for a VERY reasonable price.
Barley Creek Enterprises/Jaguar
869 Pioneer Drive
Lebanon Junction, KY 40150
502-543-2932

Can we add this to the suppliers list?
Robert Woodling
'84 XJ-S

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 08:52:50 -0600 (CST)
Subject: XJ6 Rack Boots

This is a realatively easy job. You want to remove the rack at the tie rod
end. Back off the jamb nut one quarter of a turn then remove the end. When
you put it back screw on the end untill it takes JUST one quarter of a turn
to tighten the nut. That way you dont have to count the threads.

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 09:13:42 -0600 (CST)
Subject: XJ6 For sale (South Africa)

I think you are getting rid of the wrong “she”…#8-)

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: charles daly cdaly%passport.ca@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil
Date: Wed, 06 Nov 1996 22:56:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Virus Info - Beware

Charles is just being polite;

----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Good times virus time again???
This virus was proved to be a hoax a year ago!
Gads!
Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
'62 E-Type, ots, flat floor.
—end msg. --------------------------------------------------------
“A” year ago? How about five years ago. And then over, and over, and
over, … groan…
LLoyd I must be gettin’ really old…

From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 15:50:32 -0800
Subject: Another wimp.

Pierre,

I know we have only a few members in South Africa but please do not
get to upset with me for posting this to the group.

It doesn’t matter how many members in SA! You’re upsetting people all around the
globe.

I need to get rid of my XJ6 lwb Because my wife to be in 2 weeks time
does not like the car at all. I have replaced it with a Mercedes benz
380SE. The Jag handels beter, feels more like a real car and is more
comfortable. But alas she must go.

This is not good, Pierre. It’s OK for you to buy her a Mercedes, but if she can
make you get rid of your Jaguar, you have to ask yourself: whats next?

1978 XJ6 lwb (exe in S.A.) origional motor. had it resprayed
origional gray in December last year. Have been using it every day up
to two weeks aga when I baught the merc.

Guys, let’s not put up with this! We can’t let our women tell us what car to
drive, at least not women who don’t love Jaguars! Let him get stuck with both
cars >:->

Diabolically,

Bard

______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no

From: “Martin Fooks” Martin.Fooks@centurasoft.com
Date: Thu, 07 Nov 96 11:35:02 PST
Subject: Cats Cornering - General Driving Suggestion

 Dear all,
 
 Following the poor, then good (clap, clap, well done insurance 
 company!) fortunes of Gunnar and the comments on cornering (or lack of 
 it) I have a suggestion that has so-far helped me out greatly in this 
 aspect.
 
 Why not by a Triumph TR7, like I did some years ago, and drive it 
 around a lot in the wet?  The TR7 handles so badly that it was always 
 letting go of the road with the rear end, causing me to learn and 
 practice regularly the art of regaining control of a skidding car.  
 Using a TR7 had the added benefit that nobody (especially the Triumph 
 owners club) worried about one less TR7 on the roads.
 
 There have been a few times since I got rid of that car, when I have 
 been very glad of the fact that it taught me so much about car control 
 and on a serious note I plan to buy my girlfriend skid-pan lessons as 
 part of her Christmas present.
 
 
 Martin

From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@CompuServe.COM
Date: 07 Nov 96 13:11:23 EST
Subject: Re: Vaccuum advance problem

Hi all,

Back again after a trip to Scotland, Ayie, good scotch there.

I know I’m late in replying to this thread and you might have thrashed it to
death already by now,
but I though I’ll start with replying here.

Kirby - apparently you oppose that a vacumm advance units actually advances the
ignition timing at
vacumm (throttle closing) ?.

Kirby’s critique is correct in that a vacumm advance mechanism advances the
timing with
increasing manifold vacumm (throttle closing). The reason is that a closing
throttle causes a
lower effectice compression ratio (less air-fuel mixture is let in),
which causes a decrease in the combustion speed in meters per second. Since the
maximum pressure of combustion must develop at the same “ideal”
piston position the mixture must be ignited earlier to get there “in time”.

Upon wellying the gaspedal the vacumm in the inlet throttle influences the
absolute pressure in
the carburettor venturi in an decreasing way with respect to a shut throttle
disc.
The result of wellying (pedal to the metal or full throtthle to the non-slang
people) is a sudden
drop in pressure
in the carburettor venturi, lesser so downstream (after) the venturi) but an
increase in absolute
pressure in the manifold which RETARDS (later) the ignition).

The talk about the venturi here in relation to vacumm pick-up pont to ignition
vacumm advance units
is not the best. The venturi in a carburetter is where the tract narrows
and the airflow speed increases causing a drop in pressure, which sucks the
petrol into the airstream.
However in SU’s and Strombergs, which are constant deepression carburettors (
The play between
a varying size venturi and varying air speed causes (intentioanlly) a constant
depression sucking
the fuel at a constant rate per jet-area unit).
A SU/Stromberg is also a variable Jet carburettor which varies the size of the
jet area because of the
tapered needle attached to the piston raising which thus makes out an increasing

venturi (and air volume/speed) thus the fuel mixture can be set at all air
speeds /engine speeds by
varying the taper of the needle, INDEPENDENT
of the VACUMM. Now - THAT is the simplicity of the SU’s - and the ingenious part
of it as well.

However the vacumm to the ignition in SU powered vehicles does not come off the
venturi itself, but in e.g. an HD8
carburettor is immediately downstream the throttle disc. Thus at closed throttle
the vacumm is the highest = most advance.

In some cars however the pickup point is immediatelu over the closed throttle,
effectively reversing everyting I just said,
Kirby already answered this ( see below).

From: “Himes,John W.” jwh@mime.dw.lucent.com
Date: Thu, 07 Nov 96 11:37:00 PST
Subject: WOW Chad’s XJ-S & GoodTimes

Chad answered a note from John Napoli on non-nitrous high hp V-12’s

John: I feel that my 83 XJ-S is making in the 400 HP range, 0-60 in 5
sec, will run the speedo off the end with ease. In a drag race with a 95
Camero Z-28 6sp, I just ran off and left him. The guy did not believe
that I had a Jag V-12 in the car, he was sure I had a V-8.

Chad, just what did you do to this thing?

On the GoodTimes virus, the only real one I know of is if you eat an under
cooked hamburger from that fast food chain here in the USA :-}

John Himes
88 XJ-S 98K Miles

From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Thu, 07 Nov 1996 14:08:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Pierre’s Problem!

Pierre,
I hope you realize we are all offering our usual blend
of good advice/bad advice/humour/humor!
I also hope you are taking this with a lorry-load of
salt!
When folks complain about their E, I usually agree that
it’s a terrible car, not worth keeping and to send it to me.
I will sacrificially make you the same offer, only in the
true spirit of a jag-lover. Keep your jag.
Send the girl to me!
Best of luck with all that is ahead!

Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
'62 E-Type, ots, flat floor.

    -------------------------------------------------------------
"Laugh? I thought I'd die!" 
		       A. Boleyn
    -------------------------------------------------------------

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 14:22:54 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Hood blanket XJ6

I just priced a REAL Jaguar hood blanket for my '85XJ6 and it took my breath
away.

When I had my engine compartment cleaned the idiots took the steam spray and
hit the hood blanket tearing it apart.

Anyone know of a good third party supplier or a good substitute?

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: Robert Paullin 103442.3223@CompuServe.COM
Date: 07 Nov 96 15:18:13 EST
Subject: ball joint questions

Thank you to all who responded to my earlier questions about my XJ6 repairs. I
have since decided against taking on this project with my father. None the less
more questions have come up!

Question:
I have now received two separate estimates on replacing the front end in my XJ6.
Items included are upper and lower ball joints, upper and lower control arm
bushings, 2 front shocks with bushings, and finally the alignment. One estimate
is for $1,031.00 and the other is for $1,325.00. Labor is ranging from $645 to
$832. Does this seem to be about right for this kind of repair? Being new to
this entire scene I don’t know if this is a reasonable price or not.

Thanks in advance
Laura Paullin

From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 14:04:29 -0700
Subject: Re: WOW Chad’s XJ-S & GoodTimes

On the GoodTimes virus, the only real one I know of is if you eat an under
cooked hamburger from that fast food chain here in the USA :-}

John Himes
88 XJ-S 98K Miles

Just to be picky, you don’t get a virus from undercooked hamburger.
You get a bacteria (E-Coli). Either way though, you’re pretty messed
up - or dead.

Greg Price
'85 VdP

From: Matthew Waite MWaite@tasman.com.au
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 08:10:14 +1100
Subject: virus - apologies

Sorry about that. I recieved the warning and about 1 hour later a
message wich said “GOOD TIMES” in the subject line from someone at
Jag-lovers.
Thanks
MW
'73 S1 XJ6

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #503

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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 8 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 504

RE: V12 horsepower
Re: When is a virus is not a virus
Smells & heat in older sedans
Re: Lingual complications. (No jag-content)
Re: Tappet guide/stakedown kit…
Re: Vaccuum advance problem
Re: Steering Wheel Adjustment
Re: Where’s the HP?
Re: ball joint questions
RE: V12 horsepower
V12 carbs
Re: Smells & heat in older sedans
Re: Virus Info - Beware
Re: Valve Adjustment Sov SIII
Re: another wimp
85 XJ-S: rear sway bar missing
Re: XJ6 SIII Rack Bush Question (simple!)
Re: ball joint questions
Re: XJ6 antenna - Gregory Andrachuk
XK8 pricing.
Re: XJ-S Fuel Cut-off switch: side comment on interesting experiences
Re: another wimp
Re: Steering Wheel Adjustment
Re: Where’s the HP?
Re: another wimp

From: p.hyslop@utoronto.ca (p.hyslop)
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 16:50:51 -0500
Subject: RE: V12 horsepower

Chad Bolles Wrote:

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 07:33:20 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Where’s the HP?

John: I feel that my 83 XJ-S is making in the 400 HP range, 0-60 in 5
sec, will run the speedo off the end with ease. In a drag race with a 95
Camero Z-28 6sp, I just ran off and left him. The guy did not believe
that I had a Jag V-12 in the car, he was sure I had a V-8.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

Yes Chad, but you did something to it to give it that 400 bhp! The question
is what is the secret ingredient?

Peter
74 V12-XKE

From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Thu, 07 Nov 1996 17:30:15 -0500
Subject: Re: When is a virus is not a virus

Greg Price wrote, in part;

Just to be picky, you don’t get a virus from undercooked hamburger.
You get a bacteria (E-Coli). Either way though, you’re pretty messed
up - or dead.

Ok, Greg, to prove you wrong, I am now stuffing a Big Mac into
my a:drive…damn!..you’re right…it got a E-Type-Coli…

Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
'62 E-Type, ots, flat floor.

    -------------------------------------------------------------
"Laugh? I thought I'd die!" 
		       A. Boleyn
    -------------------------------------------------------------

From: “Francis E. Halaburt” 105031.603@CompuServe.COM
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 15:15:48 -0500
Subject: Smells & heat in older sedans

Hi Nick!
I just signed on this morning to the address book. My '69 420G (Black,
manual
4 spd. w/ovdr, RHD) attracts more attention and comments than I ever would
have believed - a real ego booster! Two conditions that I would like to
correct
(or at least improve) involve the smell of petrol in the boot (and somewhat
inside the passenger compartment) and the large amount of heat that enters
the front passenger compartment from the engine. If anyone has had success
solving these situtations I’d sure like to hear from him (her), My E-mail
address
is: 105031.603@compuserve.com.
Many thanks for the obvious labor of love you have put into the site.
Best regards,
Gene Halaburt

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 8 Nov 96 9:14:13
Subject: Re: Lingual complications. (No jag-content)

In the late fifties, I was privileged to work for a very fine motor magazine
called FART - which means SPEED in Swedish. We sold a lot of copies to
English-speaking tourists…

A Swedish magazine that was very popular with German tourists was
FICK-JOURNALEN (“Pocket Journal”), which means something entirely different in
German. No, it wasn’t a porno mag - it was of, by and for, teenage girls.

-Jan

From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@CompuServe.COM
Date: 07 Nov 96 18:15:11 EST
Subject: Re: Tappet guide/stakedown kit…

Dan,

I thought I was a brave daredevil soul having used an original stake down kit
and threaded M6 screws in there. But fiddling with nuts in the oilchannel is a
real feat.

However you cheated and did it with the head off the car - I did with the head
in the car,
so I win :-). Would you have done that with the head in the car ? - too risky.

Regards Jeffrey Gram

From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 19:05:35 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Vaccuum advance problem

At 01:11 PM 11/7/96 EST, you wrote:

However the vacumm to the ignition in SU powered vehicles does not come off the
venturi itself, but in e.g. an HD8
carburettor is immediately downstream the throttle disc. Thus at closed
throttle
the vacumm is the highest = most advance.

Jeff:

I agree with everything you say, except that the vacuum takeoff on an HD8
is immediately upstream of the throttle disk, or at least it is on my car.
At closed throttle, vacuum=0, so no advance. I have verified this with a
guage, so I am absolutely positive that this is the case. Can anyone else
try this?

Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 8 Nov 96 9:30:40
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel Adjustment

Kirbert : If the PO had it all the way in, he must have been a short
person.

Doesn’t follow - I have it all the way in, and I’m 6ft 0in. It’s a matter
mainly of seat position and length of arms. I have normally proportioned arms
and legs for my height (6ft 0in between outstretched fingertips), but the XJ
seat is fairly high off the floor and I need to have it a couple of notches
forward in order to reduce the pressure on the underside of my legs behind the
knees. Then again, if you like to lean back a little extra, increasing the lean
of the seat back means you need to move the wheel back.

-Jan

77 XJ12C
78 XJ12L

From: Tony Watts amw@maths.uq.oz.au
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 10:31:04 +1000
Subject: Re: Where’s the HP?

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 18:44:40 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Where’s the HP?

I have read several reviews of the new Ferrari Maranello. Front
engine, GT tourer, 2+ seating – gee, sounds like an XJ-S. Five point
something 60 degree V12 engine – gee, sounds like an XJ-S. 450 HP –
HEY!!

Actually, it’s a 65 degree V12. Maximum power 485 HP at 7000. 334 cu inch
(5.4 litres), mass is 1690 kg, compared with 1750 kg for the XJ-S and
around 1600 kg for the XK8. Six speed manual gear box at the back. Nikasil
coated bores.
It also has a form of active suspension in
that the shock absorbers are adjusted electronically according to what the
car is doing. Overall, it is a very exciting sounding car but since the
Australian price is $1,000 per horse power I will have to wait until after
my next week’s pay check before I buy one.

This information is at the official Ferrari web site:
http://www.ferrari.it/ferrari/homeferr.html

OK, where is the missing HP in our V12s? Certainly not
compression ratio. Intakes? Cams? Heads? More valves? Better tuning?
All of the above?

Variable intake tube length, four valves per cylinder, variable exhaust
pipe length. Dunno what else.

I know Kirby would like to see a 7.4 liter V12 (and there
is certainly nothing wrong with that!) but has anyone seen a lot more
power and how did you do it? Chad, you out there?

I have since read the reply from Chad Bolles. How did you get your horse
power out of the Jaguar? I am sure many of us would be interesed.

John
Horsepressure challenged XJ-S

There are a couple of questions about the Ferrari that interest me.
Firstly, with 65 degree V, are there 12 crankshaft throws at odd angles or do
the cylinders fire at odd angles? There does not seem to be any great
problem if the left bank cylinders fired at 65 degrees after the right (and
the right 55 degrees after the left) since both sides are pretty well
balanced independently. The sound might be a bit strange though.

The other question concerns the gearbox at the rear integral with the
differential. The clutch is at the engine as normal. This would make it
very hard on the synchromesh, wouldn’t it?

Tony Watts
amw@maths.uq.oz.au

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 19:38:07 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: ball joint questions

Laura: I sell the upper ball joints for $100 the pair,lower $120 the
pair, tie rod ends $50 the pair, shocks around $85 the pair. Lets see now
that is $355, so that means you will be paying around $1000 for
labor,does not seem right to me, as I will do the whole job $560. That is
assuming no other parts involved.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 19:42:30 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: V12 horsepower

Peter: Around $11,000 cams,head work,stroked crank, headers,programable
computer,4 air valves,crank triggered ign.
Keep in mind this does not work well with an automatic,my car is now a 5sp.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: Nona canoe@onlink.net
Date: Thu, 07 Nov 1996 20:52:51 -0800
Subject: V12 carbs

If you suspect a manifold vacuum leak you can check by using an unlit
propane torch directed where you think there may be the leak. The propane
will be sucked in and will smooth out and possibly increase RPMs.
Bill
Ontario, Canada
xk140 OTS

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 8 Nov 96 11:28:44
Subject: Re: Smells & heat in older sedans

Don’t know about the 420G, but XJs have an insulating blanket thingy (looks
like a foam plastic/aluminium foil sandwich) attached to the underside of the
drive tunnel over the gearbox, and a fair bit of insulation on the passenger
side of the firewall. I recently discovered that the gearbox blanket is missing
on one of my XJs, which gets a lot warmer than the other one. I suspect a cause
and effect relationship here…

-Jan

From: Doug Heinen povtybay@wolfenet.com
Date: Thu, 07 Nov 1996 17:36:12 +0930
Subject: Re: Virus Info - Beware

Matthew Waite wrote:

REPEAT: DO NOT DOWNLOAD ANY FILE NAMED PKZIP300 REGARDLESS OF THE EXTENSION

The ONLY place to download PK Zip files from at any time is the MNFR.
This is www.PKWare.com This will preclude any virus problems.

doug heinen

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 8 Nov 96 12:05:51
Subject: Re: Valve Adjustment Sov SIII

No, there’s no need to take the head off. AFAIK, the six and 12 are similar in
this respect. The clearance is adjusted with shims under the follower buckets,
so you do need to take the cam off to change them, but that’s a simple job.
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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 8 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 505

Re:XK8 pricing
Re: 1985 BATHURST VIDEO - The Continuing sago.
Re; Where’s the HP - V12
Re: another wimp
Re: Where’s the HP?
Lingual compl, hood blanket and wimps.
Re: 85 XJ-S: rear sway bar missing
Re: XJ6 SIII Rack Bush Question (simple!)
Re: Where’s the HP?
Re: 85 XJ-S: rear sway bar missing
Re: Where’s the HP?
Re: Furflex Door Seals
Re: 4.2 e-type head
Re: another wimp
Re: Where’s the HP?
RE: Smells & heat in older sedans
Re: 85 XJ-S: rear sway bar missing
Re: Re; Where’s the HP - V12
Re: XJ6 SIII Rack Bush Question [Thanks!]
Re: unleaded fuel
convertible top protectant
RE: Smells & heat in older sedans

From: Acorn Computers NZ Ltd dcampbell@acorn.co.nz
Date: Fri, 08 Nov 1996 19:12:05 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: Re:XK8 pricing

On Fri 08 Nov, Peter Rebbechi (03) 9275 3374 wrote:

I have just seen the pricing for the XK8 in Australia.

The convertible is $211,950, with the coupe being a
veritable bargain at only $183,750.

The Americans may think that this is excessive, but I spent
last week in Singapore, where a base model Mazda Astina
(323) was listed at $147,000.
I was too frightened to ask how much a jaguar would be.

regards

I went along to the Auckland Jaguar Drivers Club preview of the XK8
a week ago. New Zealand pricing is $220,000 for the convertible and
$190,000 for the coupe. After a close inspection I decided I’d quite
happily keep my XJ-S and save myself $205,000!!! I liked the
convertible a lot more than the coupe but neither were really my cup of
tea, they just seemed to lack that ‘X’ factor. Some lovely Jags in the
parking lot however…

Dave C
'77 XJ-S

From: Jim Ellis jellis@metz.une.edu.au
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 18:05:43 +1100 (EST)
Subject: Re: 1985 BATHURST VIDEO - The Continuing sago.

Just when you thought it was safe to come out …;
(Or, translated into Australian = "but wait folks, there is more!)

I have now been advised as follows:

" Dear Mr Ellis

Thanks for getting back to me, I didn’t realise you were representing
a club otherwise I would have told you about our club deals.

Usually, if there is a motorsport club I am happy to offer their
members a 20% discount on all Duke Videos. All I require is a list of
the members names and addresses with their club membership numbers and
I’ll send out a letter with a catalogue advising them about the
discount.

Obviously, this is entirely up to you but I thought I should mention
it as you are kindly going to advise your members about the Duke Video
Web site.

Anyway, I have sent a catalogue to you today and you’re more than
welcome to get back to me if you would like to set up a discount
service.

I hope this is of interest to you and look forward to hearing from you
soon.

Yours sincerely

Lesa McLaren (Miss)
Marketing Assistant "

Although I did not see myself as seeking to ‘represent’ Jaglovers, I guess
we do qualify as a ‘club’ ? If so, and we wish to take advantage of the 20%
discount on purchase of videos ‘someone’ will need to provide our membership
list to Miss Mclaren. Anyway, the offer is there if we think that we can use it.

P.S. Duke Video is in Douglas, on the Isle of Man (U.K.) and its homepage
site is:

    http://www.enterprise.net/duke-video/

Jim Ellis.

1963 Daimler 2.5L v8 saloon * (wish it was an SP250).
Jim Ellis
Internal Auditor
University of New England,
N.S.W. 2351.
AUSTRALIA.

'phone: (067) 733497;
[national: +61 67 733497;]

fax: (067) 733314;

e-mail: jellis@metz.une.edu.au

From: bill_clark@ccmail.rsco.com
Date: Fri, 08 Nov 96 00:03:41 PST
Subject: Re; Where’s the HP - V12

 My stock (California but no smog stuff - don't ask) '73 OTS was 
 putting out 230 hp at the wheels according to the dyno, and I 
 understand that you add 30% to get the output at the engine, which is 
 not too bad for an old carburetted vehicle.
 
 There is a guy in Hemmings, advertising out of Arizona told me that he 
 could get 450 hp (presumably at the engine) on a rebuild including 6 
 short-stack webers which 'sit just nicely' and it would cost ~$US8,000 
 -  if wasn't for California Smog, and now SmogII I would have been 
 very interested.

From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@CompuServe.COM
Date: 08 Nov 96 03:04:25 EST
Subject: Re: another wimp

JT,

Do you always do what you husband say ?. I’d say such dreadful decisions
would be a motive for poisoning the tyran. A honda ! Bvadr. Fine as a shopper
but sell a XJS V12 is a disgrace. If I tried to vrist the Audi off my wife to
buy another newer car or to
buy an XJS would be equally untactful. Divorce or murder.

I feel with you. Jeffrey gRAM

From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 09:30 +0100
Subject: Re: Where’s the HP?

Yes, it is hard on the synchromesh but keep in mind that the drive shaft can=20=

be thin and have a lot less inertia as a propellershaft as it transmits the=20=

engine torque only. A normal propellershaft must be able to transmit the=20
engine torque multiplied by the ratio of the first gear. I think some=20
Porsche and Lancia models have (had) the same lay-out.
Frans. (hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch)

The other question concerns the gearbox at the rear integral with the
differential. The clutch is at the engine as normal. This would make it
very hard on the synchromesh, wouldn’t it?

Tony Watts
amw@maths.uq.oz.au

=20

From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 11:14:40 -0800
Subject: Lingual compl, hood blanket and wimps.

Jan:

In the late fifties, I was privileged to work for a very fine motor magazine
called FART -

Shit, how old are you man? In the late fifties, I was born (:-o)

As to Fick Journalen; teen age girls…; No, no, I’m not getting into that!

Jim:
Hood blanket; If you get any response, please inform me as I’m looking for a new
mat too, although the Series III-mat (I gather is a three-piece thing) and that
for my Series I (one single big mat) are different. -Oh, and don’t give us the
line about yours being teared during steaming. You’re just looking for an excuse
to pick us some more points on the next concours :->.

JT:

Most of you imply it’s the man giving up the car for the lady. Well let
me tell you gentlemen that my husband decided I should be driving a 4
cylinder 4-door 97 Honda Accord. There goes my 87 XJS V12. Not quite the
same driving experience.

A true wimp; you, that is! How could you let your husband rob you of yourself
(no joke)? If it was a matter of economy, it is understandable, but the
wallpapered motorbike is a '97; it’s gotta be more expensive than your car.
What’s this world coming to? If, on the other hand, your husband is a true
Jag-lover and wants to keep the XJS to himself, it may justify his position, but
you’ll still be a wimp to let him. ;->

Have a nice week end, all of yah!

Bard

______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 07:55:52 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: 85 XJ-S: rear sway bar missing

Rob: The XJ-S does not come with a rear bar in the USA. I can supply one
and most all the parts to install it. You will have to weld the tabs on
the strut arms.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC29212 USA 803 798 3044

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 07:57:32 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ6 SIII Rack Bush Question (simple!)

Steve: You are wrong, it takes 3 bushings to install the rack, 2 on the
drivers side and 1 on the pass side.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044On
Thu, 7 Nov 1996 SCleme519@aol.com wrote:

Hunt,

Two bushings are required. I’d suggest buying or making a bushing removal
tool (basically threaded rod and sockets) to make your life simple.

Steve Clements
85 SIII VDP

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 08:01:48 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Where’s the HP?

Richard: No just seat of the pants, and other cars as I left them in the
dust.
If you ever want a 300 hp engine, I will be glad to build you one.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: Cliff Sadler ata@netsrq.com
Date: Fri, 08 Nov 1996 08:49:28 -0500
Subject: Re: 85 XJ-S: rear sway bar missing

Weiss-Malik wrote:

Hi to all,

During the process of replacing the brake pads and shocks on my 85 XJ-S I
noticed that there is no rear sway bar on the car!!! I would like to get
anyone’s comments regarding a suitable replacement aftermarket sway bar,
sources that may carry them, and/or pricing. Also any experiences regarding
the installation of the bar would be appreciated as I will probably attempt
to do so myself. Thanks in advance.

Rob W-M
85 XJ-S
To Quote Mike Knell’s Jaguar Conversion book (Yes, I’m lumped)
pg 15-5
Sway Bars
The XJ-S come with a 7/8" front anti-sway br
The Sedans come with a 3/4" front bar, and no rear bar.
The recommendation for a conversion is to remove the rear bar which will
cause an understeer. This helps keep the lumped Jag on the road in rain
and snow.

Perhaps your PO if ther was one, removed it out of fear of the
reponsiveness of the car.

Contact ADDCO Industries, Inc.
1-800-338-7015
for sway bars
They’re in Lake Park Fl.

From: Dan Welchman Dan.Welchman@Smallworld.co.uk
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 96 14:31:38 GMT
Subject: Re: Where’s the HP?

Heh, Chad!

(Re: your tweaked V12)

What about a detailed article about this engine and all your experiences
with it for the jag-lovers home page? (including all the juicy engineering
details)!

I can’t be the only one who’d be interested!

kind regards,

Dan Welchman.

From: hdrsons@iamerica.net (Hal Rogers)
Date: Fri, 08 Nov 1996 10:06:21 -0700
Subject: Re: Furflex Door Seals

Pertaining to the past thread about furflex door seals.

One of my vendors just offered a door furflex kit in black to fit XJ6 69-79.
It is aftermarket I am told. The price is $155.00 should anyone be interested.

Best Regards,
Hal

Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
Import Auto Specialists
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax

Serving Auto Enthusiasts since 1959

From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 10:16:24 -0500
Subject: Re: 4.2 e-type head

On Nov 7, 4:58pm, Dan Buringrud wrote:

Subject: 4.2 e-type head
Hello all!
I have a 68 E-type that is about done with a complete rebuild and about
ready to get on the road. I only have to procure a rebuildable head
that is not full of cracks. After thatmy mechanic will rebuild it, bolt
it to the long block, and away we go.

My question is this: My mechanic is suggesting a head off of a
fuel-injected XJ-6. This supposedly give me more lift and bigger
valves. Does anyone else on the list have any experience in this area?

Thanks for your help.

Dan Buringrud

This is something I am interested in also, but it remains a great mystery

to me. The ‘fuel injection’ head is supposedly very similar (if not the same
as) the old Dtype/Lightweight Etype ‘wide angle’ head. If I am wrong about this
could someone tell me? I know that the S3 XJ6 head is longer, and that it will
overlap the back of the early engine blocks, but it still works. It also has a
wider angle and looks different - more space between the studs and the edge of
the valve covers. There is something that you have to do with the cam ‘plugs’
at the back of the head to seal it - can’t remember the details.
A friend of mine in the UK used a fuel injection head on his D-type
replica. He was very pleased with it because it looked like a real D-type
motor.
A few years ago some of the Etype vintage racers were saying that they were
getting a lot more hp with the fuel injection head, but when I asked Lou at
Gran Turismo about this he said that there is a loss of low end power w/ the
big valve head and only a very small increase in top end. He uses the smaller
valves on his race cars!
Here is the mystery, why did Jaguar go to the big valve head w/ the S3 XJ6 -
a large heavy sedan that needs low end torque? Why did the advertised torque
rating go up on the S3 XJ6 if the big valves hurt low end? I don’t think that
the fuel injection would compensate.
I would like to use the big valve XJ6 head because it does look pretty cool
(like a competition E-type), and I know where I can get one cheap. Also, my
motor has been sitting since 1974 so my head may be junk anyway. But, I am not
excited about loosing mid-range power. I’m feeling all conflicted. :-/
Mark McChesney
'65 ots

From: liasan@ainet.com (Lia Desiree)
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 96 08:36:23 PPE
Subject: Re: another wimp

Hmmm…my husband recently suggested that we trade my Cat on a Porsche for
HIM…then he’d buy me a SUBURBAN!!

Let’s just say I told him where he could drive that Suburban…and it
wasn’t on the highway, folks!!

Never, NEVER give up your cat for anything less!

Lia Desiree

At 03:04 11/8/96 EST, Jeffrey Gram wrote:

JT,

Do you always do what you husband say ?. I’d say such dreadful decisions
would be a motive for poisoning the tyran. A honda ! Bvadr. Fine as a shopper
but sell a XJS V12 is a disgrace. If I tried to vrist the Audi off my wife to
buy another newer car or to
buy an XJS would be equally untactful. Divorce or murder.

I feel with you. Jeffrey gRAM

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 16:33:06 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: Where’s the HP?

Chad 400 hp is impressive I know you have made some mods to the induction
system, maybe some other stuff eh? My 86 is stock which means 245hp I think.
Didn’t the brits have 300 originally. I suppose its the Catalytic converters on
the US models etc. I’ll look for look for an old road test to find the original
perf. but looks like your car is doing considerably better, have you ever dyno
checked it. do you have catalytic c’s on it?
Richard

Yes, the European spec cars without cat were rated 295HP.

- Matthias

From: “White, Dick” white@msgate.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 10:38:00 -0500
Subject: RE: Smells & heat in older sedans

Francis,

Don’t know how much your 420G is like my S-type but the problems sound
similar. I have frequently had gas smells in the boot and occasionally
but rarely inside the car. What I have found is that the fiber washers
at the fuel pumps and at the fuel filter often leak. Sometimes this is
correctable by tightening the banjo bolts but the best thing to do is
replace them. My experience has been that they don’t last long. Also,
I check mine frequently.

As far as heat goes, the car should have insulation and underfelt under
the carpet at the console. Mine has it but a lot of heat gets through
anyway. I’ve just learned to live with it.

Regards,

Dick White
Columbia, SC
'64 3.8 S-Type
'58 XK150 FHC

From: “Francis E. Halaburt” 105031.603@CompuServe.COM
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 15:15:48 -0500
Subject: Smells & heat in older sedans

(or at least improve) involve the smell of petrol in the boot (and somewhat
inside the passenger compartment) and the large amount of heat that enters
the front passenger compartment from the engine. If anyone has had success
solving these situtations I’d sure like to hear from him (her), My E-mail
address

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 12:48:06 -0005
Subject: Re: 85 XJ-S: rear sway bar missing

Weiss-Malik wrote:

I would like to get
anyone’s comments regarding a suitable replacement aftermarket sway bar,
sources that may carry them, and/or pricing.

Cliff Sadler ata@netsrq.com:
To Quote Mike Knell’s Jaguar Conversion book (Yes, I’m lumped)
pg 15-5
Sway Bars
The recommendation for a conversion is to remove the rear bar which will
cause an understeer. This helps keep the lumped Jag on the road in rain
and snow.

As one who has ADDED a rear anti-sway bar, I must wonder why anyone
would want to cause an understeer. Of course, I wonder why anyone
would want a lump, too – perhaps the same desire for a car that
sounds like a Chevy results in wanting it to handle like a Chevy as
well.

Contact ADDCO Industries, Inc.
1-800-338-7015
for sway bars
They’re in Lake Park Fl.

Before contacting ADDCO, I’d recommend reviewing the comments in my
XJ-S book. Their kits are missing the mounting hardware for the XJ-S
and you’ll be out some cash to get it installed – unless they
received my letter and corrected their ways. Also, their rear bar is
EXTREMELY thick, probably unsuitable for all but the most serious
competition, and should be paired with their 1" front bar for
balanced handling.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 12:48:04 -0005
Subject: Re: Re; Where’s the HP - V12

 There is a guy in Hemmings, advertising out of Arizona told me that he 
 could get 450 hp (presumably at the engine) on a rebuild including 6 
 short-stack webers which 'sit just nicely'...

GT Jaguar claims they can get 750 hp from the V-12, much more in line
with the engine’s possibilities. The fact that this engine typically
produces less than 300 in stock trim says much about Jaguar’s
technical expertise dealing with US smog regs as well as their
priorities. If this had been a Ford or Chevy product, the exact same
5.3l engine would be producing something well in excess of 1 hp/ci,
probably something in the mid- to high-300’s.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 11:09:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: XJ6 SIII Rack Bush Question [Thanks!]

Thanks to all who responded to my “how many bushings” question! I’m getting
the full compliment and hope to put them in in the next week or so!
Hunt

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 11:59:26 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: unleaded fuel

noticed ed’s comment about using unleaded fuel. i dont know about the quality
of petrol (gas) in the states but i consider anyone using unleaded to be very
brave. check this very carefully as you could easily pick up lubrication and
metallurgical problems on the valves.
i will definately not use unleaded in my cars (66 mk2 3.8, s3xj6).

If you have hardened valve seats as most Jaguars do, it is no problem. I
even use it in my race car with no problems. The lubrication argument is
blown way out of proportion and mainly applies to engined from the 30s, 40s
and 50s with cast iron blocks with the valve seats just ground into the block.

Neither of your cars will have ANY problem with unleaded. My Series III XJ6
has over 120,000 miles on it and is in perfect condition. I race it
occasionaly and it wins and it gets 24MPG on the highway. There is no valve
errosion whatsoever.

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 14:47:53 -0500
Subject: convertible top protectant

Is there a waterproofing/protecting treatment for the cloth tops on late
model Jags?
I have a very good condition 1991 XJS Conv. and I would like to treat the top
with something to preserve it as long as possible.
Unfortunately, I do not have a garage, hence it stays out in the elements a
lot.
Julian Mullaney

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 15:33:56 -0005
Subject: RE: Smells & heat in older sedans

Dick White:

Don’t know how much your 420G is like my S-type but the problems sound
similar. I have frequently had gas smells in the boot and occasionally
but rarely inside the car. What I have found is that the fiber washers
at the fuel pumps and at the fuel filter often leak. Sometimes this is
correctable by tightening the banjo bolts but the best thing to do is
replace them. My experience has been that they don’t last long.

For the XJ’s, Michael Neal recommended some time back that oil drain
plugs use the new washers for the banjo bolts on the oil lines, a
metal washer with a rubber seal attached to the ID. Perhaps you guys
with the older Jags would do well to look into these and see if they
will fit your fuel system – provided, of course, you are willing to
sacrifice 0.01 concours points to eliminate oil leaks!

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #505

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jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 9 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 506

Re: 85 XJ-S: rear sway bar missing
Re: 4.2 e-type head
Bullet and barrel connectors
Dumping a Jag for a lover
Re: 4.2 e-type head
Re: Bullet and barrel connectors
E-Type list
Re: Where’s the HP?
Re: 4.2 e-type head
desperate - thrashed xj6 s3
Re: Bullet and barrel connectors
S1 XJ6 Heater Control Valve
Re: 85 XJ-S: rear sway bar missing
ATF Flush & Volt Gauge Question – 83 XJ6 S3
Re: Where’s the HP?
Re: XJ-S Fuel Cut-off switch: side comment on interesting experiences
Jag XJC 4.2 - Where did it come from
Re: Fuel economy
XJ6 III Stumbling and Dying
XJ-S No-Start Solved

From: Cliff Sadler sadler@docexpress.com
Date: Fri, 08 Nov 1996 16:43:59 -0500
Subject: Re: 85 XJ-S: rear sway bar missing

Kirbert wrote:

As one who has ADDED a rear anti-sway bar, I must wonder why anyone
would want to cause an understeer.

(not me)

Of course, I wonder why anyone

would want a lump, too – perhaps the same desire for a car that
sounds like a Chevy results in wanting it to handle like a Chevy as
well.
– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

OUCH!

I’m lumped because the 2 POs overheated the engine so many times that it
sounded like an old typewriter. Good news; I bought it for $2,000. All
local (West Coast Fl) Jag “Professionals” wanted over $6,000.00 to
rebuild an engine that had over 50,000 miles on it. So, wanting to have
a daily driver that “I” could work on, and the challenge of making
something somewhat unique around here, I built a high hp, moderatly
chromed engine from the ground up, fitted it to a 700R4, and proceeded
to look good, and sound bad, without having to spend EVERY weekend under
the hood, or on the rack.

I do not wish to restart the “lump” war, nor did I participate the last
4,000,000 times it has come up.

I was just quoting Mike Knell’s book…

From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 16:40:32 -0500
Subject: Re: 4.2 e-type head

Subject: Re: 4.2 e-type head
Mark points out a mystery;

I think with larger valves you must regrind the cam or the advantage of one
will negate the advantage of the other. MAke sence? With a larger valve
opening
you want the valve to open later, or you loose your compression.

LLoyd - simple 'rithmetic-

…never been good w/ numbers - I draw pictures for a living

What then is the best route if we want killer mid-range but where max high rpm
hp is not the priority? The small valves w/ longer duration, or the large
valves w/ later (shorter?) duration and higher lift? Sorry if this is cam
profiles 101 to some of you.

Mark McChesney
'65 ots

From: “Lauren E. Pratt” pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 96 16:09:20 PST
Subject: Bullet and barrel connectors

Hi everyone

There has been a lot of comment in the past three or four
months about poor connection in those &^%& bullet and
barrel connectors losing contact due to corrosion.

In the U.S. they used aluminum (alumininum) for house wiring
30 or so years ago. Then they discovered the wire would
oxidize in the connections and cause a high connection.
The next time the oven was turned on, the oven would stay cold
but the wall outlet would light up like a Christmas tree
setting the house on fire. They came up with a paste like
product to put in the connection to keep the air off of the
wires to stop the oxidization.

Would this product or something similar stop the problem
with the bullet/barrel connectors? Any body have any experience
or thoughts on this? Engine heat and/or moisture?

Just a thought.

Cheers Lauren

Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 11/8/96
Time: 4:09:20 PM

This message was sent by Chameleon

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 12:20:30 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Dumping a Jag for a lover

Most of you imply it’s the man giving up the car for the lady. Well let
me tell you gentlemen that my husband decided I should be driving a 4
cylinder 4-door 97 Honda Accord. There goes my 87 XJS V12. Not quite the
same driving experience.
JT

Then you should dump the jerk. A car is more reliable (even a Jaguar) than
a husband…#8-)

This reminds me of one of my favorite jokes about the American that got onto
an English train. He walked up and down, looking into compartments for a
seat. None were available to he went to a compartment where a very stately
looking older english woman was sitting with a large English Sheep Dog on
the seat next to her. Opposite the pair were two older gentlemen reading
newspapers.

The American said to the lady, “Madam, would you mind putting the dog on the
floor so that I might sit?” The woman just looked out the sindow and
ignored him.

The American then went through the train again looking for a seat. Finding
none he returned and again asked the lady to put her dog on the floor. When
she ignored him again he picked up the dog and threw it out the window and
sat down.

One of the old gentlemen reading his paper, lowered it and looked over the
top of his glasses saying,“You Americans are so strange. You drive on the
wrong side of the road. You eat with your fork in the wrong hand. And now
I believe you have thrown the wrong bitch out the window.”

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: Dan Buringrud dano@castles.com
Date: Fri, 08 Nov 1996 15:20:44 -0800
Subject: Re: 4.2 e-type head

Mark McChesney wrote:

Mark points out a mystery;

… delete…
< Here is the mystery, why did Jaguar go to the big valve head w/ the S3 XJ6 -
<a large heavy sedan that needs low end torque? Why did the advertised torque
<rating go up on the S3 XJ6 if the big valves hurt low end? I don’t think that
<the fuel injection would compensate.

I think with larger valves you must regrind the cam or the advantage of one
will negate the advantage of the other. MAke sence? With a larger valve opening
you want the valve to open later, or you loose your compression.

LLoyd - simple 'rithmetic-

LLoyd & Mark,

I have been told that the cams are definitely reground in these heads.
Dan Buringrud - 1+1=3

From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Fri, 08 Nov 96 15:24:00 PST
Subject: Re: Bullet and barrel connectors

Text item:

 Lauren,
 
 You can get a grease for this purpose at good auto parts store or 
 at Radio Shack.  For years I've used a Silicone-based grease that 
 I bought at an electronics parts house (under the GC, or General 
 Cement label).  More recently I bought a small tube of 
 high-tension grease at the auto parts store.  It says it's for 
 use in spark-plug boots.  Obviously this is made to take some 
 heat.  What you're doing is keeping the connection clean and dry, 
 and it does this well.  Clean the oxidation first with acetone 
 and cotton buds (Q-tips).  Carefully squeeze the connector to 
 tighten it up.
 
 David

There has been a lot of comment in the past three or four
months about poor connection in those &^%& bullet and
barrel connectors losing contact due to corrosion.
a paste-like product to put in the connection to keep the
air off of the wires to stop the oxidization.
Would this product or something similar stop the problem
with the bullet/barrel connectors? Any body have any experience
or thoughts on this? Engine heat and/or moisture?

Text item: External Message Header

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Subject: Bullet and barrel connectors
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 96 16:09:20 PST
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From: “Robert J. Richardson” rrichardson@eurekanet.com
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 18:37:29 -0500
Subject: E-Type list

What’s the current situation with the new list for E-Type afficianados? I
am curious as to how such a list will work. I use Eudora Pro and get all my
E-Mail downloads- personal, Jag lovers, XK owners-on the general listings.
If E-Type owners identified the subject as E-Type or just plain E, why
would a new list be necessary? Anyhow, I’d like to be on the list and would
like to know the name of the list and wording used to subscribe. Thanks.

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 18:34:28 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Where’s the HP?

Dan: Not trying to beg off, but right now, I don’t have time to scratch.
I am just starting my XJ-S drag car using a Jag V-12,hopefully making in
the 900-1000HP range,burning alcohol,weighing(I hope)3000 lbs. My 83
street rod XJ-S is in the process of being painted(by Me I hope)and put
back together. My 65 Lamborghini,is in pieces,and wanting to be reassembled.
Then I have my customer work. I will try late one night to detail the car
from front to rear for you,but no promise.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 18:36:22 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: 4.2 e-type head

Mark: The diff between the 4.2 injected head and yours is the intake
valve size.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: James Bob gembob@webmart.net
Date: Fri, 08 Nov 1996 18:31:06 -0800
Subject: desperate - thrashed xj6 s3

after buying a 86xj6 S3 3mos. ago and getting it stolen it was returned
to me in poor condition,the water pump fan broken,brake fluid resevior
with a hole in it, brakes locked and other assorted problems i can’t
afford to put it in a shop therefore i will try to fix it myself i found
out how dumb i am i can’t even figure out how to get the fan completely
off but i’m determined and discouraged new parts are expensive and hard
to find in my area, any one with words of wisdom please contact me.
at wits end in decatur,il.

From: “Lee Walden” lwalden@ebmud.com
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 16:16:12 -0800
Subject: Re: Bullet and barrel connectors

Applying the stuff wouldn’t hurt. I use a compound called Penetrox when
assembling aluminum antennas. I also use aluminox. Both are “grease” type
compounds with lots of powered aluminum in them. They keep out air and
water, and conduct electricity well. The antennas are exposed to rain and
wind loads, and the stuff does a good job of keeping the electrical
resistance of the elements low. It also prevents the aluminum from
oxidizing.

From: Lauren E. Pratt pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
To: xke-lovers@azstarnet.com; jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Bullet and barrel connectors
Date: Friday, November 08, 1996 4:09 PM

Hi everyone

There has been a lot of comment in the past three or four
months about poor connection in those &^%& bullet and
barrel connectors losing contact due to corrosion.

In the U.S. they used aluminum (alumininum) for house wiring
30 or so years ago. Then they discovered the wire would
oxidize in the connections and cause a high connection.
The next time the oven was turned on, the oven would stay cold
but the wall outlet would light up like a Christmas tree
setting the house on fire. They came up with a paste like
product to put in the connection to keep the air off of the
wires to stop the oxidization.

Would this product or something similar stop the problem
with the bullet/barrel connectors? Any body have any experience
or thoughts on this? Engine heat and/or moisture?

Just a thought.

Cheers Lauren

Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 11/8/96
Time: 4:09:20 PM

This message was sent by Chameleon

From: MDavid1566@aol.com
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 19:52:00 -0500
Subject: S1 XJ6 Heater Control Valve

In a recent thread about heater control valves, Kirby mentioned an
all-plastic, fairly ubiquitous valve “available anywhere”. I did pick one
up at the local Pep Boys auto part store. I asked for the part for a “1990
XJ” in response to their request.

The part is an aftermarket part, made by Factory Air, part no 74803. It is
all plastic, a nice black, good mechanism to open and close valve. Heavy
duty and good-looking, it looks like it will resist corrosing quite well.
Would apparently fit with any XJ or XJS as well as XJ40. Cost was $12 US.

It is an “open” control valve, meaning that it is open until vacuum is
applied to close the valve and stop the water from circulating to the heater
core.

I went ahead and used it on my car, although the Series 1 XJ uses a “closed”
valve, one that is closed until vacuum is supplied. Remember the S1 XJ is
all vaccum powered system; no sissy electric or mechanical switches involved!

From: Marshall Hollister-Jones marshall@mentor.co.nz
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 1996 14:01:01 +1300
Subject: Re: 85 XJ-S: rear sway bar missing

Of course, I wonder why anyone

would want a lump, too – perhaps the same desire for a car that
sounds like a Chevy results in wanting it to handle like a Chevy as
well.
– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

OUCH!

A variation on the lump argument which I have not yet seen discussed on the
list (OK, I’m a newbie) is the Nissan diesel (I think its a 2.7 litre).
Apparently this is very easily done and I know of at least one car with it.
The owner is very impressed with his economy!!!

Marshall, Tauranga, New Zealand.
'87 XJ40.

From: Kyle Chatman kchatman@mail.coin.missouri.edu
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 19:02:00 -0600
Subject: ATF Flush & Volt Gauge Question – 83 XJ6 S3

Jag-lovers,

I would like to replace as much of the ATF as possible. Can I just =
disconnect at the bottom water pipe with the engine running and let the =
transmission pump out the fluid? I replaced the filter a couple thousand =
miles ago so it doesn’t need to be replaced.

Any particulars would be appreciated. Like, does it need to be hot? Can =
I leave it in Park? Do I replace as it empties are let it drain empty =
first?=20

If all goes as planned I will also add two quarts of Redline Racing ATF =
(the only Type F synthetic I could find). I’ll let you know if there are =
any changes.

I also want to repeat a request. Is the Smiths voltage gauge =
interchangeable with the Veglia?

I plan to do the transmission work this weekend so prompt response will =
be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Kyle Chatman
83 XJ6 S3 – 77K
85 Honda Civic (when it’s ugly out) – 140K
93 Volvo 945T – 35K

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 20:17:15 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Where’s the HP?

Is this the motor with four cams and two throttle plates on each side?
And stroked?

(It’s good to beat Camaros. Teaches humility.)

John

On Thu, 7 Nov 1996, Chad Bolles wrote:

John: I feel that my 83 XJ-S is making in the 400 HP range, 0-60 in 5
sec, will run the speedo off the end with ease. In a drag race with a 95
Camero Z-28 6sp, I just ran off and left him. The guy did not believe
that I had a Jag V-12 in the car, he was sure I had a V-8.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 20:15:13 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S Fuel Cut-off switch: side comment on interesting experiences

On Wed, 6 Nov 1996, Weiss-Malik wrote:

While running the car on mildly hot days (85-95 F, in Phoenix Arizona), and
upon taking a tight, left turn at about 30 mph, I hit the brakes in the
middle of the turn. Result… dead cat in the middle of the

This is Jaguars race car driver education feature. You’re not supposed to
hit the brakes in the middles of a turn.

John

From: Steve Ford fordsj@ozemail.com
Date: Sat, 09 Nov 1996 11:58:31 -0800
Subject: Jag XJC 4.2 - Where did it come from

I have owned a 1975 XJC 4.2 for about 3 years. I was told it was a private import to
Australia from the UK in about 1978. This car is different to other XJC’s in that it has
a distinctive oval lower grill, no front under-riders and without the usual vinyl
covered roof.
I came across a photo of what looks to be the same car in a book “Jaguar XJ” by Chris
Harvey (1980, Osprey Publishing London) with the plates HHP829N and labelled “�ndrew
Whyte’s ex works press demonstrator”. I would like to find out if it is the same car.
My car has the following identifiers
VIN 2J 1059BW, Body 5J 1075, Engine 8L 49134S, Old English White & Blue leather
interior.
Are there any UK Jag Lovers out there who can provide any leads?
The help would be appreciated.

Steve
Wollongong
Australia

From: scoleman@pcl.net (Steve Coleman)
Date: Fri, 08 Nov 1996 20:30:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel economy

Several months ago I posted a question to the list, concerning expected
mileage from a 1987 XJ6, and what factors could contribute to
poorer-than-expected results. I was roundly ridiculed for bothering
with such matters, being assured that the XK engine is expected to be a
gas hog and that it was beneath the dignity of the Jaguar owner to pay
attention to it. Since then I have acquired a second 1987 XJ6,
identical to Jag #1 in all respects except color, and, apparently,
engine efficiency. At best Jag #1 gets 20 MPG, cruising at 55 MPH; at
higher speeds it declines to around 17 MPG. Jag #2, on the other hand,
gets around 24-25 MPG cruising with minimal decline at higher speeds.
I
have checked the timing, plugs, O2 sensor, and coolant temperature
sensor and all are working properly; and in other respects the engine
seems to perform well. So I ask once more, what else should I be
checking to get Jag #1 to perform like Jag #2?

Steve Coleman, Gadsden, Alabama
1987 XJ6 x2

From: rjs2v@uva.pcmail.virginia.edu
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 21:37:48 -0500 (EST)
Subject: XJ6 III Stumbling and Dying

As you will recall, my XJ6 ran great until we came to a light,
where it would stumble and quit. The RPM would drop to around
500 and then slowly drop to zip. I had replaced the fule filter
and the temp sensor, and had checked the coolant. I tried to
adjust the idle but couldn’t get my wrench ion the hole, and so
turned the car over to my mechanic. He did adjust the idle, so
that at rest, in nuetral the car is at 650. All seems to be well.

We wondered why it fell to 500 (and then below) when it had been
wroking fine. He theorized that the flaps in the air box are
wearing such that the car gets too much air at idle. Adjusting
the idle screw tricks the computer into thinking that the car is
actually running at a moderate speed. Sound reasnoable? Could
also be the throttle linkage, which might have the same effect?

But who is questioning the result? Not me, I’m happy to have the
Jag back and to bne able to park the Ford.

Bob Sack
86 XJ6
59 150 DHC

Robert J. Sack
phone 804 924 4814
fax 804 924 4859

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 22:08:16 -0500 (EST)
Subject: XJ-S No-Start Solved

A couple of weeks ago I posted a note regarding a no-start condition on a
'85 XJ-S that belongs to a friend. We had checked a whole bunch of stuff,
to no avail. Kirby spent some time on the phone with the owner, too (the
owner’s name is Gerry Duff). Gerry was very impressed with Kirby’s
knowledge and willingness to help.

First of all, I would like to thanks all of those who responded, and
especially to Kirby, for taking the time to help.

To net it all out, the things we were told to check (that we had not
checked) were the air temp sensor, the plugs, and to go over everything
else again.

The first thing checked were the plugs. Removing and cleaning and
spinning the motor with them out and reinstalling got the motor ‘started’

– it ran real rich for a few seconds and died. (The symptom from the
get-go was that the car was obviously flooding.)

We rechecked the coolant and air temp sensors and wiring and while their
readings were a bit off the manual not bad enough to keep the car from
starting. My brainstorm if I could call it that was to disconnect the
vacuum line to the ECU, leave it open, and attach my hand vacuum pump to
the ECU. Pumped it up to 25" and cranked the motor. It lit immediately
and ran for a few minutes and then leaned out and died. Did it again with
the vacuum line plugged and 15" applied to the ECU and it started right up
and idled perfectly. Reconnected the vacuum line and all seems OK.

Is it possible that the MAP in the ECU can get the equivalent of a sticky
diaphragm? After this, the car ran fine but occasionally loaded up a bit
at idle. We finally squirted silicon into the vacuum port of the ECU in a
WAG (wild-assed guess) that something in there was sticky. Anyhow, for
now the car is fine and in the meantime Gerry and I have learned a lot
about controlling the ECU with an externally applied vacuum source!

When we swapped ECUs with my car previously, the subject car had the wet
spark plugs so I guess that’s why it didn’t start with the other unit.

Is this a known failure mode and does he need to get a new ECU or
hopefully just a MAP? Does a MAP from another car interchange?

BTW, Gerry found a neat little solution to the missing throttle shaft
bushing problem noted in Kirby’s book. Cut a couple of lengths of vacuum
hose and slip them right on. Works perfectly. Cut the hose longer than
needed – makes it easier to get on and you can reverse it when it gets
worn. It looks like it will last a while, though. If this is an original
idea, perhaps it can be added to the XJ-S book.

Thanks again to all who responded.

John

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #506

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jag-lovers-digest Sunday, 10 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 507

Re: Fuel economy
Re: XJ6 III Stumbling and Dying
XJ-S Fusebox Cover
Re: Fuel economy
Re: '65 3.8 ‘S’ type wiring
Re: Where’s the HP?
Re: Lingual complications. (No jag-content)
Re: Where’s the HP?
Re: SIII Furflex Door Seals
Re: S1 XJ6 Heater Control Valve
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #506
Re: XJ-S Fusebox Cover
Re: 4.2 e-type head
E-type rockers/sills
Gear Ratios made easy in E-types
66 E- type rear springs
RE to Palm Kirby’s question Re: XJ-S Fusebox Cover
E-type mail list reminder
Re: vacuum advance
RE: V12 HP
XJ 40 Cruise Control
RE: XJ-S fusebox cover

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Fri, 08 Nov 1996 22:43:44 -0600
Subject: Re: Fuel economy

The question about Jag#1 and Jag#2 is interesting because I have a case of
Jag#1 and Jag#1.

My 1982 XJ6 was totaled. Prior to the wreck the fuel milage had
deteriorated from about 20-24 on the highway to about 16-18 on the highway.
I could find no reason and was attributing it to age.

Then after the wreck all the running gear, motor, interior and tranny were
recovered and re-inserted into a 1985 body. No repairs were done to the
engine! But now my milage is back up to 20-25MPG on the highway.

I have no idea what the answer is. I even used the same tires so its not
tire diameter.

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 1996 00:42:38 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ6 III Stumbling and Dying

We wondered why it fell to 500 (and then below) when it had been
wroking fine. He theorized that the flaps in the air box are
wearing such that the car gets too much air at idle. Adjusting
the idle screw tricks the computer into thinking that the car is
actually running at a moderate speed. Sound reasnoable? Could
also be the throttle linkage, which might have the same effect?

But who is questioning the result?

I would. It sounds to me like you have a car with a slow running problem
that has been masked by openning up the idle air bleed.

Bob Sack
86 XJ6
59 150 DHC

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 1996 01:08:50 -0005
Subject: XJ-S Fusebox Cover

A question for the XJ-S owners: Does the fusebox for the headlights,
at the left side of the engine compartment, have a cover?

Mine does not, I originally assumed it was missing. So, I dropped
into a Jaguar dealership to try to buy one, and they told me it
wasn’t supposed to have one – and even showed me a brand new XJ-S on
the showroom floor, no fusebox cover.

Now a lady tells me her car has a cover. So, I guess it’s time to
ask you guys.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 22:13:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Fuel economy

Exhaust system obstruction (e.g., bad cat.)? Transmission efficiency? I just
had a rebuild and appear to get slightly better mileage crusing, but I’m
averaging a little lower. Maybe my 16 year old daughter’s foot? :->
Hunt

At 08:30 PM 11/8/96 -0500, Steve Coleman wrote:

Several months ago I posted a question to the list, concerning expected
mileage from a 1987 XJ6, and what factors could contribute to
poorer-than-expected results. I was roundly ridiculed for bothering
with such matters, being assured that the XK engine is expected to be a
gas hog and that it was beneath the dignity of the Jaguar owner to pay
attention to it. Since then I have acquired a second 1987 XJ6,
identical to Jag #1 in all respects except color, and, apparently,
engine efficiency. At best Jag #1 gets 20 MPG, cruising at 55 MPH; at
higher speeds it declines to around 17 MPG. Jag #2, on the other hand,
gets around 24-25 MPG cruising with minimal decline at higher speeds.
I
have checked the timing, plugs, O2 sensor, and coolant temperature
sensor and all are working properly; and in other respects the engine
seems to perform well. So I ask once more, what else should I be
checking to get Jag #1 to perform like Jag #2?

Steve Coleman, Gadsden, Alabama
1987 XJ6 x2

From: “The Honjos” fm7m-hnjy@asahi-net.or.jp
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 1996 15:30:45 +0900
Subject: Re: '65 3.8 ‘S’ type wiring

Hi John

I’m currently stripping all the wood for refinishing but I still haven’t
decided on a type of finish.

I have seen conscientious classic Jaguar (the ones I’ve seen are Mark
2s, S types, and E types) owners here do either of the following:

Apply several layers of clear cashew lacquer over time (the guy who
did this was a furniture maker who did it 20 years back with the real
stuff then available that used natural cashew oil). Stain slightly
darker/richer than original walnut but has nice subdued/discreet
sheen. No maintenance but for periodic wiping, but still no cracks
or anything after 20 yrs. Awesome.

Apply ivy lacquer (urushi, I suspect you know what I mean, probably
available only in Asia) clear, at some risk of getting rashes all
over your upper torso. By “apply” in this case you have to rub the
stuff in. Similar, but somewhat lighter stain than cashew lacquer.
Nice smell which lessens as years go by. Also extremely hardy resistant
all natural coating results.

When I get my Mark 2, I am going to try either one of the two.

Regards
Makoto Honjo
Phone/Fax +81-3-3473-1848

From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 1996 07:30:21 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: Where’s the HP?

Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch wrote:

(regarding the front engine - rear transmission layout with a thin
drive shaft in a torque tube etc.)

I think some Porsche and Lancia models have (had) the same lay-out.

And the Volvo 300 series with manual transmission.

Gunnar

From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 1996 01:38:29 -0600
Subject: Re: Lingual complications. (No jag-content)

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_01BBCDDE.B554FBE0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Tim: I think a 120%-netizen would just write
“ROTFL” => “Rolling On The Floor Laughing”.

well… I coulda wrote

ROTFLMDAO

KF-BOYW ! (guess that one ??!! (C) Stephan Perthes 11/08/96 5.00pm MEZ

looks like… Keep Farting - But/Better Open Your Window

“Hope I die before I get old” (C) 1967 Pete Townshend/The Who<

I think we are about to be moderated =)

Tim Blystone
pcsolutions@mindspring.com
TLBlystone@aol.com
jag-lovers@sn.no

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

> Tim: I think a 120%-netizen would = just write
> "ROTFL" =3D> "Rolling On The Floor = Laughing".

well... I coulda wrote =

ROTFLMDAO

> KF-BOYW ! (guess that one ??!! (C) Stephan = Perthes 11/08/96 5.00pm MEZ ;-)

looks like... Keep Farting - = But/Better Open Your Window

> >"Hope I die before I = get old" (C) 1967 Pete Townshend/The Who<

I think we are = about to be moderated =3D)

Tim = Blystone
pcsolutions@mindspring.com
TLBlystone@aol.com
jag-lover= s@sn.no

- ------=_NextPart_000_01BBCDDE.B554FBE0--

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 1996 08:00:39 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Where’s the HP?

John: No this is just my 2 cam engine but stroked to 336 cuin,with a
15to 1 compression(I know tooooo much, but am getting ready to change it)
Chad

From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson)
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 1996 05:06:56 -0800
Subject: Re: SIII Furflex Door Seals

You wrote:

Pertaining to the past thread about furflex door seals.

One of my vendors just offered a door furflex kit in black to fit XJ6
69-79.
It is aftermarket I am told. The price is $155.00 should anyone be
interested.

Best Regards,
Hal

Hi … if any one needs the SIII ones we have them for $125 a set

alll the best
tony

VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 1996 08:05:58 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: S1 XJ6 Heater Control Valve

MDavid: You could have asked for one for an Old Cutlass around an 83 or
so year, same heater control valve.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: jagmag@ecn.net.au (Hughes Graphics and Design)
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 1996 20:25:29 +1000
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #506

Saturday Nov. 8.

From: LES. HUGHES

In reply to the message from Steve Ford in Sydney (I think) with regard to
his XJ-C 4.2 which has a number of unusual features.

We publish the Australian Jaguar Magazine and fortunately own a couple of
prototype XJ-Cs, so have made a study of those cars - the early ones in
particular. Andrew Whyte was also a good friend, so I know this car - but
had no idea it was in Australia, and certainly, Andrew didn’t either!

He purchased this second generation prototype XJ-C (it was made in 1974 for
the second showing - the initial ones were built and shown in 1973) when he
was Public Relations for Jaguar Cars (or whatever BL were calling Jaguar at
that time).

Andrew and his good friend and workmate Roger Woodley had purchased two of
the handbuilt Series 1 XJ6s (Andrew had RHD chassis #6 and Roger #5), but
when the XJ-C was shown he was a big supporter of that one too. Roger was
so upset with BL that he left Jaguar, having started there as an apprentice
and later ran the Service Department, that he thought anything that had BL’s
name on it was tainted, and that started with the Series 2.

Like many others at Jaguar, Andrew was a staunch Jaguar man and resisted
BL’s influence whenever possible, and he never liked the lower grille on the
Series 2, the over-riders or the vinyl roof on the XJ-C.

He purchased his car before the XJ-C was offered for sale in 1975, and
replaced or removed each of those items and tried, in his position, to
persuade the BL powers that the XJ-C should look like this.

Like most things then, it was an uphill struggle, and BL ignored his plea.

Steve, if you could send a pic of the car and its Oz history I would love to
feature it in our magazine (PO Box 228, Holland Park Queensland 4121). You
could also contact Paul Kulhmann at PO Box 207, Blackwood South Australia
5051. He runs a very successful Australian XJ-C register and has tabs on
several hundred of them in the country - including about six or seven of
those earliest prototypes which were all private imports. He can be faxed
on 08-226.5266.

Hope this is of some help.

LES. HUGHES

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 1996 08:21:03 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S Fusebox Cover

Kirby: All XJ-S and XJ-6 cars that I have ever seen, with that fuse box
have a cover. I think that I have one out of this 84 car that I am
striping, if I do I will send it to you. Part number AEU1568,which is
not shown in the under hood position in the parts book, the parts person
is just suppose to know where it goes. It also fits the fuse block above
the pass’s legs.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 1996 08:42:32 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: 4.2 e-type head

Mark: If you wish you can use the cams from the FI XJ-6 cam timing is
I 17 BTDC 59 ATDC Ex 59 BTDC 17 ATDC. The E cams were I 15 BTDC 57
ATDC EX 57 BTDC 15 ATDC. The lift on both the cams is the same at 3/8’s.
Using a bigger intake valve will move the torque curve up, conversely a
smaller valve will lower the curve.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: “mark (m.d.) roberts” markdr@nortel.ca
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 04:57:00 -0500
Subject: E-type rockers/sills

Okay all you people with E-types out there, I have
a question on originality. First the background:

I was talking with our local Automotive Restoration
ARTIST, for want of a better term, and we came to
a disagreement on how the end of the rocker panel,
or sill, was suppose to be finished. My understanding
was that for the first 500 cars, the front end
of the sill, that bit right behind the front wheel,
was straight, in the vertical plane, and that lead was
added onto the end to match up with the curve of the
wheel well on the nose (bonnet). After the the first
500 cars were done, this bit of a curve was added into
the sill panel, but that the “hole” on the inside of
the sill panel between the curve of the sill, and
the sill end panel (mud guard) was still filled with
lead to give a more solid finished look.

So, my question to all you out there with original
factory sills on your E-type, all Series, is whether
the sill has lead in the curved bit that matches
up to the wheel well curve, thus making it look like
a 1/2 " (1 cm) thick bit of metal, or is it just sheet
metal spot welded together with no lead loading at all.

Regards, Mark Roberts Phone: (613) 763-2924
Ottawa, Ontario, CANADA Fax: (613) 763-3970
1988 VDP - SIII V12 email: markdr@nortel.ca
1963 3.8L E-Type Coupe - 16 years into a 3 year project

From: “mark (m.d.) roberts” markdr@nortel.ca
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 1996 13:33:00 -0500
Subject: Gear Ratios made easy in E-types

I’m not sure if this answer got around yet for
the query on what the gear ratio was for a
particular E-type. The easiest way to find out
what your rear-end ratio is, assuming no one has
been playing with the speedo gears, is the little
number on the face of the speedometer itself.
The key to the numbers is:

Series 1 3.8l E-type 6.40x15 RS5 tires/tyres

SN 6322/00 3.31 miles
SN 6322/01 3.31 kilometers not for Germany/Italy
SN 6322/02 3.31 kilometers for Germany/Italy
SN 6322/03 3.54 miles
SN 6322/04 3.54 kilometers not for Germany/Italy
SN 6322/05 3.54 kilometers for Germany/Italy
SN 6322/06 2.93 miles
SN 6322/07 2.93 kilometers not for Germany/Italy
SN 6322/08 2.93 kilometers for Germany/Italy
SN 6322/09 3.07 miles
SN 6322/10 3.07 kilometers not for Germany/Italy
SN 6322/11 3.07 kilometers for Germany/Italy

Series 1 4.2l E-type
tires/tyres
SN 6322/00A 3.31 miles 6.40x15 RS5
SN 6322/02A 3.31 kilometers 6.40x15 RS5
SN 6322/03A 3.31 miles 6.40x15 SP41
SN 6322/05A 3.54 kilometers 6.40x15 SP41HR
SN 6322/09A 3.07 miles 6.40x15 RS5
SN 6322/11A 3.07 kilometers 6.40x15 RS5
SN 6322/13 3.31 kilometers 6.40x15 SP41
SN 6322/14 3.54 miles 6.40x15 SP41HR
SN 6322/27 3.31 miles 6.40x15
SN 6322/28 3.31 kilometers 6.40x15
SN 6322/29 3.54 miles 6.40x15
SN 6322/30 3.54 kilometers 6.40x15
SN 6322/31 2.88 miles 6.40x15
SN 6322/32 2.88 kilometers 6.40x15
SN 6322/33 3.07 miles 6.40x15
SN 6322/34 3.07 kilometers 6.40x15
SN 6322/35 3.31 miles 185x15 SP41
SN 6322/36 3.31 kilometers 185x15 SP41
SN 6322/37 3.54 miles 185x15 SP41
SN 6322/38 3.54 kilometers 185x15 SP41
SN 6322/39 2.88 miles 185x15 SP41HR
SN 6322/40 2.88 kilometers 185x15 SP41HR
SN 6322/41 3.07 miles 185x15 SP41
SN 6322/42 3.07 kilometers 185x15 SP41

I don’t have any numbers for series 2 and series 3 E-types…sorry.

Regards, Mark Roberts Phone: (613) 763-2924
Ottawa, Ontario, CANADA Fax: (613) 763-3970
1988 VDP - SIII V12 email: markdr@nortel.ca
1963 3.8L E-Type Coupe - 16 years into a 3 year project

From: DHarr13177@aol.com
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 1996 09:39:11 -0500
Subject: 66 E- type rear springs

My 66 FHC gas always set a little high at the rear compared to the pictures I
see. It is level with a full gas tank. Is this unusual ?
I have my half shafts out . Is the proper finish a glossy or flat black ?

Doug

From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
Date: Sat, 09 Nov 1996 08:54:09 -0700
Subject: RE to Palm Kirby’s question Re: XJ-S Fusebox Cover

PK recently posted :

A question for the XJ-S owners: Does the fusebox for the headlights,
at the left side of the engine compartment, have a cover… I dropped
into a Jaguar dealership to try to buy one, and they told me it
wasn’t supposed to have one…>

My 85 XJ-S did originaly come with a cover. Somehow it got lost during one
of the “infrequent” maintenance trips for the beast (I don’t know about the
rest of you out there, but the reason I enjoy my Jag so much is that I get
to drive it ocassionally between maintenance/repair times!!!).

The local Jag dealer got me a replacement one from Jag (came in one of their
sealed plastic bags with the Jag logo parts label on it)I believe that the
price was in in the order of $7.00. Made a big difference in the amount
(alost eliminated it) of tarnish showing up on the fuses. Best regards,

Rob W-M
85 XJ-S

From: George Cohn gwcohn@azstarnet.com
Date: Sat, 09 Nov 1996 10:23:01 -0800
Subject: E-type mail list reminder

Just a reminder to let everyone know that the E-type mailing list is
operational. If you haven’t signed up yet, drop me a note or go to
http://www.azstarnet.com/~gwcohn/xkelover.htm for information. At last
count we had 72 members!

From: “mark (m.d.) roberts” markdr@nortel.ca
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 1996 15:41:00 -0500
Subject: Re: vacuum advance

Mike Frank wrote:

Jeff:

I agree with everything you say, except that the vacuum takeoff on an HD8
is immediately upstream of the throttle disk, or at least it is on my car.
At closed throttle, vacuum=0, so no advance. I have verified this with a
guage, so I am absolutely positive that this is the case. Can anyone else
try this?

I can support you on that one Mike. I just happen to have the
front HD8 carb from my E-type on the shop bench,…
something to do with an extra hole in the side… The vacuum
advance port is “just” upstream of the butterfly valve, hence
at idle, the vacuum seen at the advance is zero, but just off
throttle, it will see the intake manifold static pressure, hence
it is “ported” as Kirby mentioned.

My old 1965 MGB also had the similar set-up with its SU’s.

Regards, Mark Roberts Phone: (613) 763-2924
Ottawa, Ontario, CANADA Fax: (613) 763-3970
1988 VDP - SIII V12 email: markdr@nortel.ca
1963 3.8L E-Type Coupe - 16 years into a 3 year project

From: p.hyslop@utoronto.ca (p.hyslop)
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 1996 13:04:55 -0500
Subject: RE: V12 HP

Dan Welchman Dan.Welchman@Smallworld.co.uk wrote:

Heh, Chad!
What about a detailed article about this engine and all your experiences
with it for the jag-lovers home page? (including all the juicy engineering
details)! I can’t be the only one who’d be interested!

Chad replied:

Dan: Not trying to beg off, but right now, I don’t have time to scratch.
I am just starting my XJ-S drag car using a Jag V-12,hopefully making in
the 900-1000HP range,burning alcohol,weighing(I hope)3000 lbs. My 83
street rod XJ-S is in the process of being painted(by Me I hope)and put
back together. My 65 Lamborghini,is in pieces,and wanting to be reassembled.
Then I have my customer work. I will try late one night to detail the car
from front to rear for you,but no promise.

I second Dan’s motion! However, in fairness to Chad, I have been in
communication with him on other issues and found out that he REALLY IS
overwhelmed!. So, how about we give him 3 months to do it, then we
conviscate his XJS?

Peter
'74 XKE-V12

From: Marshall Hollister-Jones marshall@mentor.co.nz
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 10:49:46 +1300
Subject: XJ 40 Cruise Control

My '87 XJ40 Cruise Control is not working.

I have downloaded the information on fixing the SIII cruise control but
while I assume the basic principles will be the same I would appreciate it
if someone could fill me in on the differences!

You might start with where to find the control unit!

Marshall

From: “Phil Patton” ppatton@ibm.net
Date: Sat, 09 Nov 96 18:04:51 -0500
Subject: RE: XJ-S fusebox cover

My "86 has the cover. Maybe Jag decided to
discontinue it on later models due to insufficient
corrosion in this Lucas part!
Phil

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #507

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jag-lovers-digest Sunday, 10 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 508

cut off/no start problem solved and THANK YOU
Re: Double S Exhaust
XJ40: Front bulb modules
Cruise Controll, Fixed, but not fixed, Now what
RE: Smells & heat in older sedans
Re: XJ40: Front bulb modules
Re: Cruise Controll, Fixed, but not fixed, Now what
Re: XJ40: Front bulb modules
SII XJ6 Wiring Diagram…
Match made in Heaven
Re: Cruise Controll, Fixed, but not fixed, Now what
Re: SII XJ6 Wiring Diagram…
A sight for sore eyes
Re: Part For Sale
Poor gas milage
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #507
XJ6 steering rack bushings
XJ6 SIII Fuses
Re: Trunion Bearings?
RE: Horn wont stop blowing XJ6, 420 and XJ-S maybe others,
RE: mysterious switch -Reply
re: bullet connectors
RE: another wimp
RE: About Jaguar

From: “Andrew Sandiforth” acer@serv.net
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 1996 16:14:08 -0800
Subject: cut off/no start problem solved and THANK YOU

My baby is back on the road!
I wrote asking for help for my 1984 XJ-6 that would have intermittant
engine cut offs which eventually progressed to no starting. The problem was
the main injector relay and/or the fuel pump relay mounted on the firewall
near the battery. (I’m not sure which as I replaced both just for good
measure. My feeling is that it was the injector relay as this had come
loose from the mounting clip and was bouncing around.)

Many thanks to for all the quick and thoughtful responses to my posts! I
would like to extend a special THANK YOU to Randy Wilson for all
suggestions and the list of potential suspects.

Jag Lovers forever!

Andrew

From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Sat, 09 Nov 1996 20:16:59 -0500
Subject: Re: Double S Exhaust

To Michael and all;

I bought a SS system for my E this spring from
SS, in Toronto. SS is the manufacturer, not a dist.
They are made here, in Brampton, a suburb of
Toronto. I paid about $700. CDN, (approx -don’t
remember exactly, but could phone for you if interested.)
Their phone number is 905-792-7770 Fax; 905-792-3673
You have to buy the mounting brackets elsewhere,
if you need them.(I did) and all the major suppliers in the
US have them. The system fit mine very smoothly with
no adapting. Lifetime warranty, etc. Not noisy at all.
If you want any help from this end, just ask.
Regards,

Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
'62 E-Type, ots, flat floor.

    -------------------------------------------------------------
"Laugh? I thought I'd die!" 
		       A. Boleyn
    -------------------------------------------------------------

From: cobac@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 1996 20:20:40 -0800
Subject: XJ40: Front bulb modules

Hi,
Can anyone tell me what the difference is between the front bulb modules
for U.S. “square” lamped XJ40’s and U.S. “four round” lamped XJ40’s? I was
curious as to whether the wiring and such is interchangeable between the two
styles.

Thanks for any info,
Eric
1989 XJ40

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sat, 09 Nov 1996 22:15:59 -0600
Subject: Cruise Controll, Fixed, but not fixed, Now what

On my XJ-S the cruise control was not working at all. I assumed it was lack of vacumme which was the problem on three previous units (the bellows was leaking). So preceeded with the stock fix. Removed the unit and sealed the bellows around the peremiter of the ends. I also removed the solonoids and checked the rubber seals on the ends of them. They looked OK so I returned them to their place and reassembled with silocone rubber. Now the thing enguages and starts accellerating. I cut it off at 80MPH. I tried it setting it at 35 and it still accelerated to 8-0 before I shut it down. So now the engage command works, but not the “I found it” command. Anyone have any ideas? The solonoids fit awfully tight I am wondering of there is too little room and maybe adjustment is critical. Jim “Better an outlaw than not free.” Nance O’Neil From: “White, Dick” white@msgate.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 00:18:06 -0500 Subject: RE: Smells & heat in older sedans Kirby, Thanks for the reminder. I do recall Michael’s note now that you mention it. The trick will be finding the right size. In '64 all those gas/carb fittings were still Whitworth believe it or not, but I should be able to find something close and get out the 'ol reamer. Let’s see, by my calculations that should bring my car down from 50.00 to about 49.99. Hey, that would be a 2% penalty. Regards, Dick White Columbia, SC '64 3.8 S-Type '58 XK150 FHC Subject: RE: Smells & heat in older sedans For the XJ’s, Michael Neal recommended some time back that oil drain plugs use the new washers for the banjo bolts on the oil lines, a metal washer with a rubber seal attached to the ID. Perhaps you guys with the older Jags would do well to look into these and see if they will fit your fuel system – provided, of course, you are willing to sacrifice 0.01 concours points to eliminate oil leaks! Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | - Palm’s Postulate From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com Date: Sat, 09 Nov 1996 21:38:27 -0800 Subject: Re: XJ40: Front bulb modules The modules are different and do not interchange. At 08:20 PM 11/9/96 -0800, cobac@ix.netcom.com wrote:

Hi,
Can anyone tell me what the difference is between the front bulb modules
for U.S. “square” lamped XJ40’s and U.S. “four round” lamped XJ40’s? I was
curious as to whether the wiring and such is interchangeable between the two
styles.

Thanks for any info,
Eric
1989 XJ40

From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 00:53:35 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Cruise Controll, Fixed, but not fixed, Now what

Now the thing enguages and starts accellerating. I cut it off at 80MPH. I
tried it setting it at 35 and it still accelerated to 8-0 before I shut it down.

So now the engage command works, but not the “I found it” command. Anyone
have any ideas?

The solonoids fit awfully tight I am wondering of there is too little room
and maybe adjustment is critical.
                                                       Jim

First thing I would look for is a plugged vent on the primary solenoid; the
double action one. Or maybe the vent side is not opening… due to ???

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 00:55:10 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ40: Front bulb modules

Hi,
Can anyone tell me what the difference is between the front bulb modules
for U.S. “square” lamped XJ40’s and U.S. “four round” lamped XJ40’s? I was
curious as to whether the wiring and such is interchangeable between the two
styles.

Thanks for any info,
Eric
1989 XJ40

It’s all in the headlights. The plugs are different. The wattage is different,
and the logic is different.

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

From: Curt Onstott onstottc@ucs.orst.edu
Date: Sat, 09 Nov 1996 23:03:25 -0800
Subject: SII XJ6 Wiring Diagram…

Is it just me or does the Haynes Wiring Diagram Suck!? I’ve been having
a number of electrical problems and the diagram is next to useless. It
appears to be missing several components. I’ve been having better luck
using the standard color codes for the wiring to trace down the
problems. (Most of them appear to be loose connectors.)

Right now I’m having difficulty trying to determine why my left tail and
side lamps are inoperative. In the process of trying to determine what
is causing that, I’ve broken the instrument lighting. Is there an
in-line fuse or relay that I’m not finding?

-Pessimist: “This ship is sinking.” -Optimist: “This ship is half full.”

Curt Onstott - Windows/DOS/PC Specialist - Information Services -
Oregon
State University. - (541) 737-1483 - Office: Kerr 217

From: hached01@bh.bbc.co.uk (Dieter Hachenberg)
Date: 10 Nov 96 10:06:36 GMT
Subject: Match made in Heaven

Having read with much interest the various postings from people having to
part with the beloved cars before they “tie the knot” I wanted to
encourage people that its not necessarily always the case. I married in
August of this year to Becky, and the first thing we have done is sell
our Citroen AXGT (which was a lot of fun-a bit like a go-cart!) and buy
our XJ6 SIII. It was a joint decision and she loves it as much as me.
She’s 18 and loves driving it and we work on it together. What could be
better. I sympathise with those of you who don’t have Jag loving spouses!
A word of advice to the single folk, make sure you marry the right one!

Dieter Hachenberg

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 09:35:05 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Cruise Controll, Fixed, but not fixed, Now what

Jim: Depending on the year of you car, Jaguar has a recall on the Cruise.
Recall No 6 on a range of 1979 XJ-12 Series III and 1982-1990 XJ-S
vehicles,it is possible that the electronically controlled valves in the
cruise control actuator may not function properly due to dirt ingress. If
this occurs,the cruise control will fail to disengage under normal
operating coditions.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803798 3044

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 09:39:35 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: SII XJ6 Wiring Diagram…

Curt: Look in the boot,take down the carpet at the back. This will
expose the ECU and such,look along the bottom, you will see several
inline fuses,check them.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: hached01@bh.bbc.co.uk (Dieter Hachenberg)
Date: 10 Nov 96 17:00:28 GMT
Subject: A sight for sore eyes

I was cycling home down Park Lane, London, the other evening (I know I
have a luxurious motor car-but I need the excercise!) and I passed the
Dorchester Hotel. Lined up outside were no less than six stretched
Daimler Limo’s in Black, and they looked fantastic. It brought a lump to
my throat!

Dieter Hachenberg

From: gene schaeffer gene356@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 11:16:36 -0800
Subject: Re: Part For Sale

gene schaeffer writes:

XKE Roadster Boot cover from Welsh Jag. “NEW” never used top of line #19-14195 $200,

Gene356@ix.netcom.com
XJ6 1984 Brake pads new 06-2244 $12 a set, 2 new thin size of rotor

From: Gerald Foster SKY182@postoffice.worldnet.att.net
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 17:26:48 +0000
Subject: Poor gas milage

At 12:05 AM 11/10/96 +0000, Jim Isbell wrote:

The question about Jag#1 and Jag#2 is interesting because I have a case of

Jag#1 and Jag#1.

My 1982 XJ6 was totaled. Prior to the wreck the fuel milage had
deteriorated from about 20-24 on the highway to about 16-18 on the highway.
I could find no reason and was attributing it to age.

Then after the wreck all the running gear, motor, interior and tranny were
recovered and re-inserted into a 1985 body. No repairs were done to the
engine! But now my milage is back up to 20-25MPG on the highway.

I have no idea what the answer is. I even used the same tires so its not
tire diameter.
                                                       Jim
“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

Jim,

Rolling resistance due to incorrect wheel alignment can cause huge

milage differances. I once saw a demonstration using a model car and it was
amazing how a little misalignment affected the rolling of an unpowered model!

                                    Gerald

From: “Thos. Carney” carney@vcn.bc.ca
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 09:42:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #507

Nick, et al: Of interest?

From Vancouver Province Nov. 10:
Vancouver–Jaguar owners put up with a lot of problems with their
luxury cars, a provincial court heard Friday.
Joseph Enderle, a 52-year-old North Vancouver mechanic, said he has
owned six or seven Jaguars since he started in his trade 35 years ago.
“There’s more you have to live with, driving a Jaguar,” he testified
at the trial of West Vancouver businessman Peter Kains.
“I have problems with my Jaguar sometimes. So do my customers…”
Kains, 57, is charged with impaired driving causing death, dangerous
driving causing death and refusing to provide police with a breathalyser
sample after a fatal accident at about 2 a.m. on Nov. 27, 1994.
His girlfriend, socialite Dale Mearns, 50, drowed inside his Jaguar
outside her waterfront condominium.
Kains’ 1991 Jaguar Sovereign XJ6 sped off from a standing sart, hit a
seawall curb 48 metres away, became airborne and landed in False Creek…
clipped…
An expert mechanic who was called earlier by the prosecution
testified he found about a tablespoon of water in the vacuum line of the
death car’s computerized cruise control system.
Enderle said that may mean the car’s cruise control system, which
normally wouldn’t kick in below 40 km/h, was on."
End excerpt. there is more but the trial continues Tuesday.

From: SCleme519@aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 14:19:01 -0500
Subject: XJ6 steering rack bushings

Hunt and others:

I mistakenly told you two (rather than three) bushings are required for the
steering rack. I thought, finally, I could add some slight benefit to the
list, since I did the bushing replacement only a few weeks ago. I trusted my
memory, which is apparantly on the way out, and I wasn’t even alive in the
late '50’s!!

From now on, I’ll be more careful and look before I respond to questions.
Sorry if I caused any problems.

Steve Clements
85 SIII VDP

From: SCleme519@aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 14:23:11 -0500
Subject: XJ6 SIII Fuses

Lately I’ve experienced a couple of minor electrical problems in my car. The
first was the failure of the A/C blower to blow. The fuses looked OK, so I
dug around further with my VOM. I’m a novice (read incompetent) with
electrical troubleshooting, but I deduced that it had to be a bad fuse. I
replaced the fuse, and everything works fine.

The next was one headlight that wouldn’t work on high. Again, the fuses
looked fine, so I checked all the conections on the relay, pulled both bulbs,
switched them, etc. It turned out that it was a bad fuse.

In both cases, I could not tell that the fuses were faulty by looking at
them, i.e. they weren’t obviously burned. In my old VW bug, when a fuse was
bad, that baby was obviously fried. From now on, I’ll try a new fuse first
before I waste time on anything else.

Steve Clements
85 SIII VDP

From: Barrie Dawson DAWSONB@btcec3.agw.bt.co.uk
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 10:32:34 -0800
Subject: Re: Trunion Bearings?

Theo,

Trunion Bearings were getting sloppy…
These bearings are in the rear hubs where the lower wishbone connects
to the hub. They are made up of 2 bearings a spacer tube and shims.
What normally happens is that regular greasing has been forgotten and
moisture has crept in rusting the bearings. You will not hear any noise
until the wear is serious but you will notice excessive front tyre wear
due to the car “crabbing” whilst driving.
To check the wear you need to check the movement at the point the hub
joins the wishbone and either replace the bearings or adjust the shims.
You may also find that you get the feeling there is a steering problem,
mine used to drift quite bad and I thought it was a steering fault.
Your workshop manual will give you details of free play, I don’t have
mine with me at present to tell you.

I had mine done by my local Jaguar dealer, cost about 80GB Pounds a
side,
much cheaper than leaving it and having to add 140GB Pounds for each
wrecked tyre.

Barrie Dawson
Chatham, Kent England

1985 Series III Sovereign

From: Barrie Dawson DAWSONB@btcec3.agw.bt.co.uk
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 11:01:03 -0800
Subject: RE: Horn wont stop blowing XJ6, 420 and XJ-S maybe others,

JIMI wrote

If you have an adjustable column like the XJ-S and XJ6 try readjusting the height of the wheel to get yourself home without atracting too much
attention.

A good idea but there is a much quicker and more permenant way to stop
the horn blaring, just pull the wire off the horn. Then when you get
home you can fix the fault at your leisure.

Barrie Dawson

Chatham, Kent England
1985 Series III Sovereign

From: Mike Everatt meveratt@Direct.CA
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 1996 18:21:31 -0800
Subject: RE: mysterious switch -Reply

That would explain why I have heat in the summer, and AC in the winter =

– and why the radio cuts out if you close all the windows to hear it. =
Now if I could just figure out the phantom throttle control. All along I =
thought it was an electrical problem :-).

Mike Everatt
1987 1/2 XJ40

From: Steve Draper[SMTP:s_draper@WCSR.COM]
Sent: Saturday, November 02, 1996 7:34 AM
To: meveratt@Direct.CA
Cc: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: RE: mysterious switch -Reply

Mike Everatt wrote:
…Unfortunately, the mirrors stay frosty until you turn on the rear
defogger **…

Mike, I’d be little surprised if your seatheat switch did activate the =
mirror
heaters. The jag electronics system doesn’t work on electricity, it
works on some curse. I can tell rain is coming when my xj-s doors
won’t lock. Windshield wipers activating the seat heaters means seven
more weeks of warm weather. In fact, sometimes the car won’t start
unless you circle it three times waving a chicken bone, chanting “Lucas,
Lucas…”

----Steve
'88 xj-s
'89 xj40vdp
e-mail at:
s_draper@wcsr.com

From: BSherw@aol.com
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 15:17:03 -0500
Subject: re: bullet connectors

Our 17-year-old son drove our '85 XJ-6 Saturday night; normally
I don’t let him drive it, but it was supposed to be a special night-
formal school dance, first date with a girl he’s been trying to
impress, etc. And the Jag didn’t fail to “impress” - the lights quit
as the kids were going from dinner to the dance. My son was
able to keep the high beams on by holding the dimmer switch, and
brought it home, so they could swap for his car (Honda Civic).
I later found there was a bad bullet connector, under the headlight
fuse box.
If the girl ever marries somebody with a Jaguar, she’ll probably
make him sell it!
Brian Sherwood
'85XJ6, '84 XJ-S

From: Mike Everatt meveratt@Direct.CA
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 12:51:56 -0800
Subject: RE: another wimp

Let him drive the Honda!

Mike Everatt
1987 XJ40

From: JT[SMTP:treadwel@ieway.com]
Sent: Thursday, November 07, 1996 7:07 PM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Re: another wimp

Most of you imply it’s the man giving up the car for the lady. Well let
me tell you gentlemen that my husband decided I should be driving a 4
cylinder 4-door 97 Honda Accord. There goes my 87 XJS V12. Not quite the
same driving experience.
JT

From: Mike Everatt meveratt@Direct.CA
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 12:41:00 -0800
Subject: RE: About Jaguar

Good for you, Charles. I can’t believe the amount of Ford bashing that =
goes on on this forum. Need I remind everyone that if it wasn’t for =
Ford, Jaguar would be a dead company! They may not do everything the way =
the “purists” would like it, but face facts – the cars are better now =
than they’ve ever been – gaskets that seal, electrics that work, trim =
pieces that stay on… I could go on. The XK8 may not appeal to all, but =
judging from sales figures, Jag has a winner! For those E-type owners, =
and others who complain about the looks of the new cars, I say: It =
wasn’t Ford who killed the E-type back in 74 (75?). Remember the dark =
days of B-L, and be thankful Jag is coming back as a marque to be proud =
of.

Mike Everatt
1987 XJ40
One day, maybe a XJR! (funds permitting)

From: charles daly[SMTP:cdaly@passport.ca]
Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 1996 9:10 PM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Re: About Jaguar

At 03:28 PM 11/6/96 MST, MICHIHIDE KANZAKI wrote:

The past Jaguar was great. It focused only on the nice body style.
Expensive, Noisy, Small room, classical engine…
After under control of Ford, Jaguar has lost its mind.
Yeah, British mind. The only purpose is to make money.

May I help you, out?

Jag-haters are over there----------------------->(keep going!)
=20

=20
Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
'62 E-Type, ots, flat floor.
=20
-------------------------------------------------------------
“Laugh? I thought I’d die!”=20
A. Boleyn
-------------------------------------------------------------
=09

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Message-Id: 199611110140.CAA03612@ekeberg.sn.no
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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 11 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 509

Greased connectors
Re: Cruise Controll, Fixed, but not fixed, Now what
xk list
Digest Sorting
Re: Digest Sorting
Re: XJ-S Fusebox Cover
Re: Match made in heaven
Re: Bullet and barrel connectors
Re: desperate - thrashed xj6 s3
Re: 4.2 e-type head
Re: 4.2 e-type head
Re: List’s and Clubs.
XJ-S Flooding is Not Fixed
XJ-S Lamps
Re: Jag XJC 4.2 - Where did it come from
Poor gas milage
Horn Blowing
RE: About Jaguar
Elegance and nobility
XK-140 FHC for sale

From: Mike Everatt meveratt@Direct.CA
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 13:14:56 -0800
Subject: Greased connectors

Hi all,

I read one posting that recommended greasing bullet connectors with =
dielectric grease. Now the question – on an XJ40, is that a good idea? =
My Jag mechanic says no, all connections should be “clean and dry”. On =
my last vehicle (89 Jeep Cherokee) I had problems with the engine =
management electrics until someone suggested I grease all connections. I =
did that, and no more problems!

So who is right? I understand that the Jag uses a lot more low current =
computerized electronics – does the grease help or hinder with these =
low current connections?

Mik Everatt
1987 XJ40

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 16:15:58 -0005
Subject: Re: Cruise Controll, Fixed, but not fixed, Now what

Now the thing enguages and starts accellerating. I cut it off at 80MPH. I
tried it setting it at 35 and it still accelerated to 8-0 before I shut it down.

So now the engage command works, but not the “I found it” command. Anyone
have any ideas?

If I understand it right, one solenoid is an on-off thing, open or
closed, while the other “flutters” to provide speed control. It
would appear that you have jammed the latter one open, so that once
the first gives permission the car runs away.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: ffilangeri@juno.com (Frank A Filangeri)
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 16:13:47 EST
Subject: xk list

Can someone please send me the proper email address to post a message on
the xk mail list. Thanks.

Frank
62 E OTS
ffilangeri@juno .com

From: “Rennick, Kim (AS01)” KRennick@p03.as01.honeywell.com.au
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 96 09:15:00 EST
Subject: Digest Sorting

My thought for the day - or week, perhaps…

I’ll start with the disclaimer that I know very little about majordomos or
such matters, so if my suggestion is ridiculous, please let me down
gently…

Is it possible for the mojordomo (or whatever rank he now holds) to
automatically sort the digest on the ‘subject’ line, in ascending
alphabetical order, prior its being transmitted?

This would have the benefits of:
- grouping the initial request / question and linked responses
together, and
- grouping all matters relating to a given model together (eg XJ40: xxx
yyy)
It might also have the added benefit of encouraging us all to adopt a more
rigorous and rational use of the ‘subject’ line…

It could go some way to providing a ‘mini-digest’ within the full digest,
whilst letting everyone peruse as much of the full digest as takes their
fancy (or time permits). (And no, I am not suggesting breaking up the list,
or even entering into that discussion, since I consider the ‘nays’ to have
the power of logic on their side on that one)

This would only be feasible if it can be done automatically - no, I’m not
suggesting that Nick spends hours per day re-ordering the digest layout!

First, someone tell me if is possible / simple, then, is it a reasonable
suggestion?

Best regards,
Kim Rennick
'88 3.6L Sovereign

From: hogtail@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 15:33:22 -0800
Subject: Re: Digest Sorting

On 11/11/96 09:15:00 you wrote:

My thought for the day - or week, perhaps…

I’ll start with the disclaimer that I know very little about majordomos or
such matters, so if my suggestion is ridiculous, please let me down
gently…

Is it possible for the mojordomo (or whatever rank he now holds) to
automatically sort the digest on the ‘subject’ line, in ascending
alphabetical order, prior its being transmitted?

This would have the benefits of:
- grouping the initial request / question and linked responses
together, and
- grouping all matters relating to a given model together (eg XJ40: xxx
yyy)
It might also have the added benefit of encouraging us all to adopt a more
rigorous and rational use of the ‘subject’ line…

It could go some way to providing a ‘mini-digest’ within the full digest,
whilst letting everyone peruse as much of the full digest as takes their
fancy (or time permits). (And no, I am not suggesting breaking up the list,
or even entering into that discussion, since I consider the ‘nays’ to have
the power of logic on their side on that one)

This would only be feasible if it can be done automatically - no, I’m not
suggesting that Nick spends hours per day re-ordering the digest layout!

First, someone tell me if is possible / simple, then, is it a reasonable
suggestion?

Best regards,
Kim Rennick
'88 3.6L Sovereign

Very good idea. I have seen lots of answers to questions I’ve never seen!

Jim Hardaway
'94 XJ40

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 18:51:35 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S Fusebox Cover

Yes, mine has a cover – a cheap looking clear plastic thingie.

John

On Sat, 9 Nov 1996, Kirbert wrote:

A question for the XJ-S owners: Does the fusebox for the headlights,
at the left side of the engine compartment, have a cover?

From: George Cohn gwcohn@azstarnet.com
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 16:57:19 -0800
Subject: Re: Match made in heaven

Amen to finding the right mate! My wife talked me into buying our
basket case E and she gets out there to help me and encourage me when I
get down about it. Having a spouse support your project can make or
break it!

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 11 Nov 96 10:06:27
Subject: Re: Bullet and barrel connectors

I just clean mine with cotton buds and acetone; once a year seems to do the
trick. I have heard of a German spray-on product that was supposed to remove
corrosion, prevent it coming back and promote contact - but my informant had
forgotten the name. Maybe somebody else knows?

- oh, and the worst “lucar” of the lot seems to be the big one under the trim
  cover at the left front corner of the engine bay (blue/white wire) that carries
  power to the healdight relay. It consists of two bullets in a loose tube, and
  gets hot nenough to melt the insulation. I’ve replaced it with a large-size
  (3/8in?) spade connector on both my XJs and have had no further trouble.
-Jan

From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@CompuServe.COM
Date: 10 Nov 96 19:19:02 EST
Subject: Re: desperate - thrashed xj6 s3

James Bob,

Sounds as if you werent’ insured ?

To get the fan blades off first get the radiator top cross member off, cowl off
to get at a bolt head at the front of the fanblades. Get a repair operation
manual. You can’t do much without it unless you’re an experienced mechanic.

You need a new brake resevoir… Take each wheel in turn to disassemble the
brakes
and look it over / new seals in there.
After all wheels are good, new brake oild, and bleed the system.

A locked brake can also be a master cylinder in need of repair.

These are not major problems. - don’t worry, jag-lovers are right next to you.

Regards Jeffrey Gram

From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@CompuServe.COM
Date: 10 Nov 96 19:19:10 EST
Subject: Re: 4.2 e-type head

Hi all & tuning freaks,

The S3 head is the same basically as the early E0type head apartfrom two water
channels at the back. Another possible change is that the S3 head is a C-type
head, whereas not
all e-type heads were C-types I believe, or maybe this was earlier with the XK’s
(120/140/150).

As Chad has pointed out the valve timing is ever slighly increased overlap. Sthe
S3 was equipped with larger valves to accomodate a larger capacity in breathing
to match was was possible with the injection system, so Yes the injection system
IS tuned to fit the cam timing.

Mark McC :

The ‘fuel injection’ head is supposedly very similar (if not the same
as) the old Dtype/Lightweight Etype ‘wide angle’ head. If I am wrong about this
could someone tell me?

No !. The S3 fuel injection head is a normal angle head as all Jaguar XK heads
were apart from the Special D-type head fitted to the Works race D-types. This
head had a greater angle between the valves 35 & 40 degrees (ie. the valve
banks) and this enabled larger inlet valves 2+1/8 inches or 53 millimeters on
the intake by making more room at the top of the hemisphere where the size of
the spark plug limits (amongst other things) the maximum valve size .The exhaust
was 1+11/16 (43 mm) .

Mark McC:

A friend of mine in the UK used a fuel injection head on his D-type
replica. He was very pleased with it because it looked like a real D-type
motor.

The heads from a early E-type looks VERY similar to any other Jaguar XK head, so
I don’t understand what the “cool” look is about. The cam covers are differently
layed out,
and personally I find it a shame to have ugly “rigded” S3 cam cover on a E-type.
Stick to the smooth polished early type covers.

There is no problem to use a S3 head on an e-type and even if the max torque is
shifted slightly up by the bigger valve (not the cam shaft ! (insignificant
change)), I doubt if you are able to judge the difference anyway. In really high
performance racing cars where everything becomes very very important there comes
points where small difference become significant, but don’t compare to stock
enginnes then !.

I spoke to a tuning specialist in UK last week at the Jaguar Spares Day, he used
the small valves head too, because he said at very high RPM (this beast reved to
7200 !!!) the larger valve becomes more of an obstruction than an increased
area. Instead the trick is to use smaller valves , not outrageous overlaps in
cams (like I did. - shit !!!) and increased LIFT. - but again now we are talking
20.000 Dollar engines.

For the normal stock engines however , the S3 valve head will bring a small
advantage on an old E-type with triple or twin Carbs. With an injection system
mounted as well (suitably disguised from those prying eyes of the concours
judges), the improvement is significant!.
Expect 10 % power up at 10% fuel down without any other mods.

Another advantage is that a Series three head will survive unleaded, whereas an
old E-type head may not. I have personally ironbrushed an old B-type head and
the valve seats CRUMBLED away…

Mark, you do have 9:1 pistons in there or not?,

Regards Jeffrey Gram

From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@CompuServe.COM
Date: 10 Nov 96 19:19:05 EST
Subject: Re: 4.2 e-type head

Lloyd ansewered (i think)

I think with larger valves you must regrind the cam or the advantage of one
will negate the advantage of the other. MAke sence? With a larger valve
opening
you want the valve to open later, or you loose your compression.

LLoyd - simple 'rithmetic-

No - Llloyd. There is no must in this case. The advantage of a larger (inlet)
valve could be enhanced by a greater valve overlap (more time to fill) to
increase the volumetric efficiency (which is a term different from Compression
ratio which is a static definition), however at higher inlet air speeds - higher
RPM thus. It may bring disadvantages at lower Rpm (less fill or loss in
overlap).

So if you meant the inlet valve closing later above your’re off track since this
does not result in better “compression” (you meant volumetric efficiency),
rather the opposite is true.

One day I hope I get around to understand really the different possibilities of
changing valve timing with carbs or injection system, lift , large valve etc
etc… Wrong education I guess…

Mark McC:

What then is the best route if we want killer mid-range but where max high rpm
hp is not the priority? The small valves w/ longer duration, or the large
valves w/ later (shorter?) duration and higher lift? Sorry if this is cam
profiles 101 to some of you.

As outlined above with stock engines there is small differences only.
but the answer is :
Foir Race engines : Smaller valves, sligth increased overlap, very increased
lift
For Marks engine. :Any valve s (fuel injection head or not), stock S3 cam.

The advantage of stock engines is that you dont land in no-mans land like I did
with my
rallye cams which my stock SU’s can’t feed. I now have to fiddle all winter with
Carb needles…

regards Jeffrey gram

s

From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@CompuServe.COM
Date: 10 Nov 96 19:19:19 EST
Subject: Re: List’s and Clubs.

Jim Ellis,

It is nice with a 20 % discount, but take care - and anyone else on this list,
not to
be trapped into handing out a “list” of our addresses for advertising purposes.
Such an act
I would find somewhat like breach of confidence.

We are not “protected” from ads on this list , but unsolicited advertising is
already
of scandalous proportions on the internet.

We jag-lovers on this list do not qualify as a Club, in any sense of a Car owner
club or
as a classic marque club. In short we have none of :
Genneral Manager
Membership secretaries
Chairman
Cashier
Annual General meeting
membership fees

more.

But even if we were a club, and even if we could get 20% discount someplaces,
and if I were the General Manager, the ach of breach of club confidential
informantion would lead to
immediate exclusion from the club. In fact I think that Nick should inhibit the
Index function of the mailserver.

We have a List admin and a couple of helpful souls amongst the list members, but
that does not qualify as a"club".

The best to do rather than giving away our addresses is what this marketing
manager suggested and which you did was just to let us know the web-address.
Then anyone can have a look if interested.

The above is entirely my opinion.

Regards Jeffrey Gram

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 19:24:11 -0500 (EST)
Subject: XJ-S Flooding is Not Fixed

This is again regarding my friend’s '85 XJ-S, which has had a flooding
problem keeping it from running.

We thought we had a MAP problem because the car started when we manually
applied high vacuum to the MAP in the ECU. Apparently this was not the
cause of the problem, because the flooding problem returned and the car
once again ran poorly and would not start. So all we learned from this
particular exercise was that aplying high vacuum to the MAP will help a
flooded Jag start.

Fuel pressure is around 40 psi.

Swapping in the ECU from my XJ-S produced absoulutely the same symptoms.
So it is NOT the ECU or MAP.

That would seem to leave the coolant sensor, air temp sensor and throttle
pot as suspects, right? THe coolant sensor is recently new, the air temp
sensor gave funky readings (the measured resistance was way off where it
should had been at that temp, the air temp sensor thought the air was much
colder than it actually was) and will be replaced next, and the throttle
pot needs to be checked.

Any other ideas out there?

Oh, yeah, the vacuum line to the ECU is ok, and the entichment
microswitch/vacuum switch cirsuit also seems to be ok (car noticeably runs
richer when microswitch manually closed).

Sidebar: Gerry, the owner of this car took out the ignition amp and
looked inside after reading in Kirby’s book that it had a GM part inside.
Sure enough, it did. And within minutes of putting it back together, the
little sucker failed. No spark. Wires and connections ok. Gerry went to
Pep boysand bought a new GM module, put it in and voila! Plenty of
spark.

John

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 19:29:23 -0500 (EST)
Subject: XJ-S Lamps

I have a strange problem with the turn signals on my '82 XJ-S.

The right side directionals work normally.

The left side directionals work normally unless the brake lights are on.
Then, the brake light on the left side flashes out-of-phase with the amber
turn signal. Amber light on, brake light off. Amber light off, brake
light on. This only happens on the left side. No burnt out bulbs. I
don’t know if all the bulbs are ‘correct’, as discussed in other threads
regarding bulb failure sensors.

The same weird flashing occurs if the four-ways are on, but once again
only on the left.

Any ideas?

John

From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@CompuServe.COM
Date: 10 Nov 96 19:18:56 EST
Subject: Re: Jag XJC 4.2 - Where did it come from

Steve - all Jags came from Browns Lane…

An Issue of the Jaguar World featured a brief note on the first XJC which was a
Series one !
ie. a large (tall) grill and the indicators above the bumper. The model featured
was believed to be the only surviving XJC prototype. It dates to about 1973,
years before the first XJC was
launched officially in 1975

The featured XJC was incidentally from Australia Too, so If yours is a series
one nose, you have a second XJC series one survivor, The Rarest of all XJ’s in
the world. STICK to IT.

Can’t verify your engine and body numbers now - can;'t remember where I have the
list…
Cant find that Jaguar world magasine either…

In Any case Phone Jaguar Cars coventry, and get the story of your jag (small
fee).

Lets hear what you find out.

Regards Jeffrey gram

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 18:35:58 -0600
Subject: Poor gas milage

Then after the wreck all the running gear, motor, interior and tranny were
recovered and re-inserted into a 1985 body. No repairs were done to the
engine! But now my milage is back up to 20-25MPG on the highway.

I have no idea what the answer is. I even used the same tires so its not
tire diameter.

Rolling resistance due to incorrect wheel alignment can cause huge
milage differances. I once saw a demonstration using a model car and it was
amazing how a little misalignment affected the rolling of an unpowered model!

Well, Gerald, thats not the answer either because I race the car the
alignment is always perfect. It gets donethree to five times a year. Of
course it was way out after the wreck, but it wasn’t driven then either…#8-)

So the answer has not yet been found. Any other guesses?

BTW, there is no prize because I dont know the answer.

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 18:36:10 -0600
Subject: Horn Blowing

If you read what I posted you would see that I acknowleged that method and
also noted that if you needed the horn on the way home you wouldn’t have it
if it was disconnected.

In any case, readjusting the column is MUCH easier than climbing under the
hood to disconnect the horn. You can readjust the column while you drive!
How much easier can it get?? And as I said, the horn will still work when
you want it.

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 20:11:34 -0005
Subject: RE: About Jaguar

Mike Everatt:

Need I remind everyone that if it wasn’t for Ford, Jaguar would be a dead
company!

Ooooh, I don’t think so. GM tried to buy out Jaguar because Jaguar
was a winning company, worth more than its stock was at the time.
The result was a bidding race, with Ford “winning” when the inflated
stock price was worth more than GM was willing to pay. Jaguar execs
were aware of the implications, but felt that they had to act in the
best interests of their stockholders – which was to sell at the
inflated price. If neither Ford nor GM had come along, Jaguar would
probably still be operational, and probably quite strong – but there
certainly wouldn’t be an XK8. Instead, the DB7 would be a Jaguar.

They may not do everything the way the “purists” would like it, but face
facts – the cars are better now than they’ve ever been – gaskets that seal,
electrics that work, trim pieces that stay on… I could go on.

I agree that Ford has helped Jaguar address many of its nagging
problems, but saying that the cars “are better now than they’ve ever
been” may be going a little far. By the same reasoning, we can
conclude that Honda is building cars better than either! Suggesting
that either Ford or Jaguar is producing anything today anything of
the caliber of the E-type is cause for argument!

The XK8 may not appeal
to all, but judging from sales figures, Jag has a winner!

Judging from sales figures, the Fiat Neuvo 500 is a winner too.
Personally, I choose NEVER to judge from sales figures, since they
are usually wrong – the most popular car in most countries is the
cheapest car in those countries, not the best. The Ford Escort is
supposedly the most popular car in the WORLD, and it’s a piece of
c__p.

For those E-type owners, and others who complain about the looks of
the new cars, I say: It wasn’t Ford who killed the E-type back in
74 (75?).

True; it was the US safety regulations.

Remember the dark days of B-L…

Good point! I’m sure all will agree that life under Ford has been
MUCH better than life under B-L.

and be thankful Jag is
coming back as a marque to be proud of.

I would disagree with “coming back”, first off because it never went
anywhere, second because it seems to be going away now rather than
coming anywhere. And I would disagree with “a marque to be proud
of” as long as they cater to rich retirees rather than performance
enthusiasts.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 11 Nov 96 11:20:30
Subject: Elegance and nobility

The October issue of Classic and Sports Car, which has just landed on our
distant Down Under shores, contains among much interesting matter a fascinating
interview with Leonardo Fioravanti. A designer with Pininfarina, he was
responsible for the BMC1800 (a successful solution to a very difficult
problem) and Ferraris Daytona, 246 Dino, 512BB and 308GTB. As three of those
are vehicles I lust for hopelessly and in my opinion belong in that small group
of designs that merit the title “all-time great”, I will listen respectfully
when this man holds forth on automobile forms.

All the more so as he agrees with me: “Today, Jaguar is looking backwards. They
don’t have the courage to look to the future as Jaguar once did”. No doubt
referring to the anonymous XK8 and the upcoming dreary MkII rehash. Not that
Jaguar’s past brave leaps always landed safely, as witness the unfortunate
“Aero”, but you know what they say - no pain, no gain.

Fioravanti has an original 2.4 in his collection, and when asked about his
favourite, he said: “We are speaking only of aesthetics, not mechanicals. Then
the Jaguar. I prefer the Jaguar, it is the best car here. It is a fascinating
shape, with what we call ‘classe’ in Italian; elegance, nobility; these are
properties the Jaguar mixes so easily”.

True, and true. The only thing wrong with this article was that it was too
short; I’d have loved more on the principles guiding his designs. A
particularly good issue of a fine magazine; get it if you can.

-Jan

From: ffilangeri@juno.com (Frank A Filangeri)
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 20:39:05 EST
Subject: XK-140 FHC for sale

Fellow club member (JDC Long Island) offers the following classic Jag for
sale:

1956 Jaguar XK 140 MC FHC. Ivory with black interior, wire wheels and
matching numbers. 35k miles on a rust free Calif. car. Concours scores
always 96+. Featured on the cover of E-JAG magazine April 1988.
$39,500. Contact Ed LaGrassa 718-631-5416 (NYC).

Frank
62 E OTS

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #509

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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 11 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 510

RE: About Jaguar/Ford
rally event may 1996
Re: Poor gas milage
Re: Greased connectors
Re: 1955 D-Type Jaguar for Auction.
Re: Match made in Heaven
re: all Jags came from Browns Lane…
'91 XJ6 idleling problem…
1983 XJ6 S3 4.2 Cold start advice wanted.
RE: Greased connectors
Re: Fuel economy
Re: XJ-S Lamps
Series 1 XJ-C
Re: Fuel economy
Re: XJ-S Lamps

From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson)
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 17:44:03 -0800
Subject: RE: About Jaguar/Ford

You wrote:

Mike Everatt:

Need I remind everyone that if it wasn’t for Ford, Jaguar would be a
dead company!

Ooooh, I don’t think so.

Well, pretty close folks… Jag was at the end of their finacial
rope… and the British Governemnt was not going to fund the business
the way Egan wanted…

GM tried to buy out Jaguar because Jaguar

was a winning company, worth more than its stock was at the time.

Ummm, not really … GM bid something like L2.50 at the time for a
minority stake in the company and was trying to ice the deal for
themselves at the cheapo price with the Government. Egan very smartly
got Ford really hyped up and they ended up paying way over the odds
and without a lot of due diligence. The year 1989 was the top of
Jaguars sales run … after which sales plumetted from around 45,000
per annum to 28,000 or so

The result was a bidding race, with Ford “winning” when the inflated
stock price was worth more than GM was willing to pay.

On the order of 3x more… Jaguar execs were aware of the implications, but felt that they had to act in the best interests of their stockholders The Government…!! which was to sell at the inflated price. If neither Ford nor GM had come along, Jaguar would probably still be operational, and probably quite strong Very doubful… Ford had to absorb losses of over L400mm and new investments in tooling and redesign … The government was not about to bail out Jaguar again… Egan on the other hand bailed at the right time to BAA … Ford basically got hoodwinked by Egan . Instead, the DB7 would be a Jaguar. The F -type had no funding and it was very unlikely that it would have been built… as a note of interest the 7 F-type protos that Ford went looking for a year after the acq disappeared and had to be “found” VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations fax 305 443 6443 http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com Inactive web From: ffilangeri@juno.com (Frank A Filangeri) Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 21:34:54 EST Subject: rally event may 1996 The following account of the 1000 mile rally I participated in May 1996 with my 62 E is offered for the amusement of the list members. It should also appear in the Jaguar Journal with photos around January. Frank 62E OTS How I Spent My Summer Vacation While cruising the paddock at the 1995 Lime Rock Fall Vintage Festival, it took nothing more than a comment to old college friend Clark Nicholls that I was considering running the New England 1000 Rally again but had no navigator, to get an enthusiastic “let�s do it”. So once again the planning began. Fall of 1995 was spent tending to Catiecat�s (my 62 XKE roadster) needs. New front wheel bearings, motor mounts, brake pads and, a new set of minilite replica wheels and lots of “routine” maintenance and she was ready for a winters rest in anticipation of the upcoming rigors of 1000 miles of New England roads scheduled to begin at the end of May 1996. The adventure began on a rainy Saturday afternoon in late May with a ferry ride off Long Island to Connecticut enroute to Lee, Mass. to pick up Clark. After a good nights sleep in Lee we awoke to a beautiful sunny day for the second leg of our journey to the Basin Harbor Club on the shores of Lake Champlain in northern Vermont, the starting place as well as the finish of the upcoming rally. We arrived around noon and were greeted by an amazing collection of cars already in the parking lot: 1930 Bugatti type 44(one of four Bugattis), 1932 Alfa Romeo 8C 3000, 1934 Aston Martin Ulster, 1956 Austin Healey 100M, 1959 AC Bristol, 1950 Kurtis Sport, 1951 Allard Monte Carlo, along with a complement of various Mercedes, Astons, Ferraris, Porsches, Lotuses to name a few. Oldsmobile, a sponsor, brought along a virtually new 1966 Toronado and a 1979 442, the same car used in the movie Demolition Man, and not just for show. These cars ran the entire event, including the hillclimbs! Catiecat was kept company by fellow competitors and Jag enthusiasts in a 1967 XKE, 1973 XKE, 1959 XK-150 (a dedicated team that completed a head gasket replacement the night before and successfully ran the entire event!!) and a beautiful newly completed Heritage C-type driven up from Washington D.C., in the rain. Jaguar was well represented and we were in good company. Competing in our class, Early Historic under 4 liters, were two Astons and three Ferrari 330GTC�s. After an impromptu Concours Diselegance at the lakes edge and a fine dinner we were ready for the Monday morning start. The rally was run over four days and approximately 1100 miles. This included three hillclimbs, on closed courses during which we were encouraged to run as fast as we dared. The rally and hillclimbs were scored separately this year with trophies for each. Day one started with a real surprise when no more than 20 minutes from the start we were forced to cross a badly flooded road. After watching a competitor ahead of us cross we boldly forged ahead (not much choice as we had no idea as to an alternate route). We found out later that a Lotus Europa actually started to float but made it safely across. After a checkpoint stop at Calvin Coolidges birthplace and lunch in scenic Woodstock, Vermont, we found our way to the White Mountain Inn, our stopping point for the evening, and the first hillclimb. After emptying the trunk of excess weight, donning our helmets and cinching the harnesses tight we were ready to start our timed run. Off we went, roaring around the course, tires screeching only to come across a set of cones we took to be the end. A quick u-turn and we were headed back to the finish. We had scored a great time�.only we had not completed the course!! After a detailed explanation of where the course really went we were allowed a second run and later found we had scored the best time of day overall. A very successful first day with only two penalty points scored in the rally segments. Day two began with a transit stage to the mount Washington hillclimb, 2.5 miles of twisting, uphill blacktop. This was to be the only time during the four days we were forced to put the top up as it began to rain just prior to our run. Despite the wet road we were able to get a very good run, completing the course in 3 minutes flat beating the next best time, by a Ferrari 246, by 14 seconds. The rest of the day was 250 miles of glorious top down touring, at speeds sometimes in excess of 100 mph, playing “tag” with other cars in the event. Our lunch stop was to be a very special treat however. Bob Bahre, owner of New Hampshire Raceway and car collector opened his “museum” to our group for a special showing (it is open to the public only one day a year) and provided us a place for lunch among some of the most magnificent cars in the country. Dining while surrounded by restored Dusenbergs, Packards and Miller race cars among others was an experience worth driving to New Hampshire in itself. There was even a Series One XKE in the shop area awaiting restoration. The day ended at the beautiful Samoset Resort on the Atlantic coast in Maine. Another good day in the scoring with no rally penalties putting us a solid third overall in the rally, behind a Lotus Cortina with zero points and a Porsche 356 with one point, and first in the hillclimbs. Wednesday, day three, turned out to be one of the most entertaining despite the fact that we covered only about 170 miles. The first event was the Mount Battie hillclimb. Approximately 1.7 miles long it proved to be the most interesting hillclimb. Wide, smooth roads with well banked turns and no nasty surprises allowed us to again run best time of day but with the Lotus Europa only one second behind and the Ferrari 246 only two seconds back!! Too close for comfort. We should never have told the Europa driver what a smooth run it was and not to lift the whole way up! We had however clinched the hillclimb event honors. The next stop was at the home of Andy and Sarah Rheault, noted Bugatti collectors and restorers. It was fascinating to see a completely disassembled Bugatti under going restoration. The detail and craftsmanship that went into making these machines is amazing to witness and the rare opportunity to get into the innards of one was truly a highlight of the entire trip. We then set out on a transit stage to the Owl Head Museum in Owl Head, Maine. This museum is dedicated to the early transportation era and includes displays of early flying machines and automobiles, a display of early engines, biplanes rides and numerous exhibits related to transportation. While visiting, we were treated to an old fashioned Maine clam and lobster bake–a fabulous lunch surrounded by marvelous artifacts. This museum is a “must see” stop if you are in the area. It was then off to some serious rallying for the balance of the day on the way to our destination for the night, the Sugarloaf Mountain Resort. We were again able to stay on course and on time, avoiding any penalty points and maintaining our position in third place behind that tenacious Cortina and the Porsche. Who is that guy in the Cortina anyway?? Our last day on the course proved to be the most intense. Wednesday was a relaxed, fun day and we were going to pay for that on Thursday by covering three hundred miles in four timed segments. The route took us over a variety of roads and through many towns. The rally master had set fairly high average speeds and the open road segments provided many opportunities to “make up time”. As a result much of the day was spent at speeds considerably above the speed limits with a couple of dashes to 120+mph during some long passes… We managed to zero the first three segments and picked up only one more penalty at the last checkpoint for a total of three points in 1097 miles. We would have to wait for the awards dinner that evening to find out if that was going to be good enough for a trophy. After a hardy dinner at the Basin Harbor Club it was finally show time!! Rich Taylor our host and organizer announced that the event was able to donate at least $20,000 to the Vermont State Police Gary Gaboury fund this year, the most ever and moved on to the awards. As it turned out the Porsche 356 had picked up two penalty points the last day and we had tied for second with three points each. We were awarded the position because of our performance in scoring an overall win in the hillclimbs. We also took first in class for both events having bested the Aston Martins and Ferraris in our class. Our fellow XKEs placed a respectable tenth and fifteenth overall. We found out later “that guy” in the Lotus Cortina, the overall rally winner, was Tom Grimshaw, a professional rally navigator. With him navigating and Bobby Unser driving they were this years winner of the ALCAN (Alaska/Canada) 5000 mile pro rally!! A tough act to follow but it made us feel even better about our second place finish. Rich and Jean Taylor, organizers of the NE 1000, put on a grand event once again. Fine food, first class hotels, wonderful roads and a like minded group of enthusiasts make this event a very special way to use an old Jaguar or any classic car. You can do the event in a very competitive manner, as a pleasant drive through the New England countryside or anything in between, your choice. The organization is excellent and nothing is left to chance. Your luggage is even delivered to your room each evening! Try it–you will never look back!! From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 00:47:25 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Poor gas milage Then after the wreck all the running gear, motor, interior and tranny were recovered and re-inserted into a 1985 body. No repairs were done to the engine! But now my milage is back up to 20-25MPG on the highway. I have no idea what the answer is. I even used the same tires so its not tire diameter. Was this mileage you cite based on trip computer? Maybe the fuel flow meter or the trip computer in the old one was off. Thomas E. Alberts From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 01:16:01 -0005 Subject: Re: Greased connectors I read one posting that recommended greasing bullet connectors with dielectric grease. Now the question – on an XJ40, is that a good idea? IMHO, it’s a good idea on ALL automotive connectors. My Jag mechanic says no, all connections should be “clean and dry”. Hence Jaguar maintains its excellent reputation for reliable electrics! So who is right? I understand that the Jag uses a lot more low current computerized electronics – does the grease help or hinder with these low current connections? Jaguar circuits are only low-current because of the corroded connections! Corrosion seems to be more of an issue on HIGH currect connections, the worst example being the battery connections themselves. But I can’t see how it would hurt ANY connections. If I understand it right, the grease doesn’t do anything for the connection itself, it is still metal-to-metal. The grease keeps oxygen and automotive fumes away from the bare conductors, thereby preventing corrosion and maintaining the connection integrity. Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | - Palm’s Postulate From: Jim Ellis jellis@metz.une.edu.au Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 17:34:51 +1100 (EST) Subject: Re: 1955 D-Type Jaguar for Auction. WARNING: The following should only be read by millionaire Jaglovers!! ************* If anyone happens to be looking for a kosher D-Type Jaguar, BROOKS GOODMAN (Sydney, N.S.W.) will be auctioning one (amongst a number of classic vehicles) on November 25th, 1996. The vehicle is definitely GENUINE (i.e. NOT a replica) and is chassis No XKD510, engine No. E2017-9. As would be expected, there is a fair amount of colourfull history available about the vehicle. For example, it has been involved in at least 2 race crashes (Goodwood U.K. & Singapore ) where the driver was killed! Apparently both were relatively inexperienced drivers - e.g. one driver, who had borrowed the car, managed to somehow select 1st gear at around 110 mph!! The estimated realiseable price - according to the Auctioneers - is “from $AUS900k - $AUS1.3m” . For what it is worth, the odometer reads 12,400 miles and the vehicle was judged to be " the best presented D-Type at this year’s historic run to Le Mans." Contact: Paul Clark BROOKS GOODMAN, Sydney. Ph: +61 2 9327 8701 (24 hr No.) I am interested in this model to the extent that when I was a lad in N.Z., a neighbour (Angus Hislop, for any Kiwis of my vintage) used to race one - it was a most impresive beast which made a glorious sound as it was (illegally) ‘road tested’ down the otherewise quiet country roads near the village where I lived at the time! However, even IF I could afford a D type, I would personally have a problem owning a car with a replacement value that was several multiples of the market value of the Chez Ellis adobe hacienda!! (Something called priorities?) Jim Ellis. 1963 Daimler 2.5L v8 saloon * (a ‘D Type’ Jaguar Mk 2 perhaps?) Jim Ellis Internal Auditor University of New England, N.S.W. 2351. AUSTRALIA. ********* 'phone: (067) 733497; [national: +61 67 733497;] fax: (067) 733314; e-mail: jellis@metz.une.edu.au From: Bert.Willing@lc.dmx.epfl.ch (Bert Willing) Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 08:44:04 +0100 Subject: Re: Match made in Heaven I can support this. Having driven my old Saab for years, and having married Tina a year ago, I had to replace the Saab because of its poor technical state. I had longed for a Jag ever since but always thought about it as a dream. Well, one day we were looking around for another second-hand Saab, when Tina caught sight of an S3 XJ& and stated : “This one.” I did not oppose. Bert Having read with much interest the various postings from people having to part with the beloved cars before they “tie the knot” I wanted to encourage people that its not necessarily always the case. I married in August of this year to Becky, and the first thing we have done is sell our Citroen AXGT (which was a lot of fun-a bit like a go-cart!) and buy our XJ6 SIII. It was a joint decision and she loves it as much as me. She’s 18 and loves driving it and we work on it together. What could be better. I sympathise with those of you who don’t have Jag loving spouses! A word of advice to the single folk, make sure you marry the right one! Dieter Hachenberg Bert Willing '84 XJ6 4.2L Laboratoire de Ceramique - Departement des Materiaux Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (EPFL), MX-Ecublens, CH-1015 Lausanne Fone : (+41 21) 693 29 44 Phax : 58 10 email: Bert.Willing@lc.dmx.epfl.ch Eudora 2.1.1 ------------------------------ From: “Arnold, Dave Dr.” davearno@sandton.senchem.co.za Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 09:50:41 +0200 Subject: re: all Jags came from Browns Lane… Geoffrey Gram asserted “Steve - all Jags came from Browns Lane…” Really ? For sure some were built in Cape Town with about 50% local content (by mass). Anywhere else? Dave 80 XJ6 II (made in South Africa) 67 S-type (made in Coventry) 47 Mk IV (made in heaven) From: “Yubert K. Fang” yubert@concentric.net Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 00:10:52 -0800 Subject: '91 XJ6 idleling problem… Hi Jaguar fans, I hope someone can help me… The other day my XJ6 Majestic kept dying on the road because it would not maintain it’s idle speed. This happened after I had driven the car for about 10 minutes. I had to manually hold down the accelerator to keep the engine alive. At the end of the day, I drove the car back home, about 35 miles and tested the car again and it could idle fine. Only difference was that I hooked up a battery charger since the battery was drained from all the restarts. Seems that the battery needs to be replaced, could this have affected the idle speed?? What could have caused the idle speed to just drop off like that?? Thanks for any suggestions! Yubert From: Roly Alcock roly@redac.co.uk Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 09:13:04 +0000 Subject: 1983 XJ6 S3 4.2 Cold start advice wanted. So now that traditional November weather has reached the UK, (frozen mist and all that) I find that the XJ6 is not as willing to start as it was last winter. It will start, but only after ~8 revoltions of the engine. Battery is new and in good condition. Things that have been fiddled with this year are:- New headgasket ( head dismantled for crack testing ) New coil, apparently of the same type ( constant whatever it is ) When it does start it is evident that the the fuel enrichment is working correctly. My questions are:- Should I be fiddling around in the air flow meter to check the fuel pump contact ( Ref Michael Neal’s technical advice pages ) is there more than one switch in the meter, if so which one should I be checking and how. How can I really check that I am getting the correct ballasted voltage during cranking. ( with the ignition switched on and engine not started, I was unable to measure and significant voltage between either + or - and ground, so I assume that other electrickery controls are at work here). Does oil pressure have any bearing on fuel supply? I believe some cars cut the fuel supply if the oil pressure fails, therefore there must be some override to this at cranking time, and the number of revolutions turned before the car willingly starts may have a bearing on this. Finally, the factory loomed wiring to the coil bears no resemblence to the schematic wiring diagram. My coil has three wires on the + side and 2 on the - side. Any comments. Is there anything else that I should consider? P.S. I had a begging letter from Ghana today, apparently the student who wrote
it read my name in a Jaguar magazine. Anybody elese had one?
I am sure it is the people who do NOT own Jaguars are the ones who have some
cash left over for good causes.

Thanks

Roly

Roly Alcock, (Postmaster) Principal Systems Engineer
Redac Systems Ltd, Tel: 01684 294161 ext. 211
Zuken-Redac Group, Fax: 01684 298902
Green Lane,
Tewkesbury, E-mail: roly@redac.co.uk
Gloucestershire, GL20 8HE, UK Web: http://www.redac.co.uk

From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 10:24 +0100
Subject: RE: Greased connectors

Hello all,
I think in the ideal world one should use three different types of=20
protection for automotive electrical connections. For H.T. like distributor=20=

caps, coil, and plugs the best is silicon grease. Dow Corning makes a=20
special grade that I used for connectors on X-ray equipment but I think the=20=

stuff for greasing power transistor cooling plates is O.K. I don’t live in a=20=

very humid climate so I hardly ever bother with that. Then for earth=20
connections to the body work that have the tendency for rusting, I use a=20
grease, bought at Eastwood’s, that is charged with copper particles and=20
comes in a small can with a brush attached to the top of the can, very=20
practical. It is conductive. For the rest , bullet connectors and so on, I=20
spray from time to time with WD40, that seems sufficient to avoid corroding.=20=

Seems we can’t do without US made stuff!
Frans (hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch)

I read one posting that recommended greasing bullet connectors with
dielectric grease. Now the question – on an XJ40, is that a good idea? My
Jag mechanic says no, all connections should be “clean and dry”. On my=20
last
vehicle (89 Jeep Cherokee) I had problems with the engine management
electrics until someone suggested I grease all connections. I did that,=20
and
no more problems!

So who is right? I understand that the Jag uses a lot more low current
computerized electronics – does the grease help or hinder with these low
current connections?

Mik Everatt
1987 XJ40

=20

From: Dan Welchman Dan.Welchman@Smallworld.co.uk
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 96 09:29:34 GMT
Subject: Re: Fuel economy

Re: Steve Coleman’s two identical Jags with different fuel consumption:-

Ok, this is just a guess but…

On my SIII 4.2 XJ6 I see a small (but perfectly repeatable) difference in petrol consumption due to ambient temperature. It’s somewhere between one and two miles per (English) gallon. The temperature variation to cause this is the difference between about 25c and 0c. Now I put this down to increased viscosity of the oil when it’s colder (the oil-cooler has no thermostat). So I’m wondering if the difference between the two cars may be due to different grades of oil in the two cars. I admit that the difference Steve is getting sounds a bit large for this cause but maybe if there’s 20W-50 in the thirsty Jag and 0W-30 synthetic in the other one??? …or maybe different thermostats in the two cars causing a slight difference in oil temp? (any difference in coolant temp gauge readings?) Dan. P.S. (I assume rubbing brakes have been eliminated as a cause - that could easily account for it). From: Roger Dowden rogerd@pyra.co.uk Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 09:42:04 +0000 (GMT) Subject: Re: XJ-S Lamps Hi This is usually an earthing problem. Try following the earth cables from the light assembly to the chassis. Not having an XJS I dont know where they connect to but I quite often see all sorts of cars, not just jaguars. good luck Roger I have a strange problem with the turn signals on my '82 XJ-S. The right side directionals work normally. The left side directionals work normally unless the brake lights are on. Then, the brake light on the left side flashes out-of-phase with the amber turn signal. Amber light on, brake light off. Amber light off, brake light on. This only happens on the left side. No burnt out bulbs. I don’t know if all the bulbs are ‘correct’, as discussed in other threads regarding bulb failure sensors. The same weird flashing occurs if the four-ways are on, but once again only on the left. Any ideas? John From: jagmag@ecn.net.au (Hughes Graphics and Design) Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 19:26:37 +1000 Subject: Series 1 XJ-C In reply to Jeffrey Gram. The Series 1 XJ-C you mentioned was restored, and is owned by me, and was created in 1969. In 1973 Lofty England picked up the XJ-C programme again for BL who didn’t have any cars to show at that years series of motor shows. About 20 LHD and RHS 4.2 and V12 XJ-Cs were hand made, and most of the LHD examples converted to RHD by the factory before they were registered in August. We also own one of the very first V12 LHD examples (chassis #3 converted by the factory to RHD) and behind the rear seat it has a date of January 1973 penciled on the vinyl. In 1974 another group of cars was produced for the shows since the 1973 cars had mostly be given to executives as their works vehicles. Andrew’s car is one of those, and various ones were created until the general production commenced in 1975. If anyone has a query on their particular very early XJ-C I have most of the records from the factory and would plesed to help identify it. There are a remarkable number of prototype XJ-Cs in Australia Regards LES. HUGHES From: John Whitehead bcf@tir.com Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 06:46:31 -0500 Subject: Re: Fuel economy Steve Coleman wrote:

Since then I have acquired a second 1987 XJ6, identical to Jag #1 in all
respects except color, and, >apparently, engine efficiency. At best Jag #1
gets 20 MPG, cruising at 55 MPH; at higher speeds it declines >to around 17
MPG. Jag #2, on the other hand, gets around 24-25 MPG cruising.

EPA ratings for the '87 XJ6 was on the order of 14 -18 miles/gallon. Jag#1
sounds more typical. If the performance of both Jag’s are the same then
you truely have a marketable phenomenon, assuming you can indentify the
source. Alternately the timing of the inlet and outlet cams can be set to
decrease valve “overlap” with a correspponding jncrease in fuel enconomy and
a drop in performance.

Any experience out there with changing the camshaft timing of the 6 cylinder
XK engine??
I
Reguards,

John Whitehead (Marysville, Michigan)
'92 XJS OTS
'87 XJ6
'67 XKE OTS

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 09:38:59 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S Lamps

On Mon, 11 Nov 1996, Roger Dowden wrote:

This is usually an earthing problem. Try following the earth cables from

Thanks for the reply.

John

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #510

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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 11 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 511

RE: About Jaguar
Re: Trunion Bearings…
Re: Poor gas milage
First_time
'91 XJ6 idleling problem…
Fuel economy
sighting of the ultimate XK8?
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #507
XJS fuel cut off
re: Greased connectors
Table of vehicle statistics (power, weight, …) by model and year?
Re: sighting of the ultimate XK8?
Re: First_time
Re: convertible top protectant
XJS running temperatures
XK 150 3.8 cylinder head
re: all Jags came from Browns Lane…
Re[2]: another wimp
Re: XJS running temperatures
Re: 4.2 e-type head
UK Plates

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 09:29:21 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: About Jaguar

On Sun, 10 Nov 1996, Kirbert wrote:

And I would disagree with “a marque to be proud
of” as long as they cater to rich retirees rather than performance
enthusiasts.

Boy, is that remark right on. Jag isn’t alone, either.

John

From: theo bremner tbremner@lynx.dac.neu.edu
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 10:19:21 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Trunion Bearings…

Hello,

Has anyone done trunion bearings themselves?  I've heard a lot

of people say they had there’s done are they a pain to do yourself or
too time consuming or what? I’m on a limited budget and the bearings
aren’t too cheap to begin with by the looks of things. Then add that to
the labor and it hurts. Also is there a method to check the bearings to
see if they are bad or do you have to take them out to inspect them?

Thanks appreciate any input,
Theo
tbremner@lynx.neu.edu

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 09:19:02 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Poor gas milage

Was this mileage you cite based on trip computer? Maybe the fuel
flow meter or the trip computer in the old one was off.

No, there is no trip computer in a 1982 (everything was hand computed) and
when it was converted to the '85 body I carefully checked the computer and
it is within one tenth of a gallon (+,-) in fuel and spot on in speed.

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: “Nuno Abreu” nunoabreu@hotmail.com
Date: 11 Nov 1996 15:23:46 -0000
Subject: First_time

Hello everybody !
I am new to this list and also to using email
so if I do someting WRONG please tell me.
I live in Portugal and recently i have bought
a 1970 Jaguar XJ6 S1 4.2 Litre.
It runs Great except for a few minor Lucas problems
Besides those it also did something STRANGE yesterday.
I put half a tank of gas in one tank (the other was empty),
and after a few kilomiters(sorry miles!), the gas had MOVED
frome one tank to the other !!!
Since it is a carburator version it has no return fuel pipe
from the engine. Is this a miracle, or can it be that the other
fuel pump is letting some fuel going backwords !

Any sugestons/advice would be apreciated !

(Ja’ agora algem fala PORTUGUES aqui ?)

Tanks in advance (Obrigado).

Bye.

Get Your Web-Based Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 09:37:29 -0600 (CST)
Subject: '91 XJ6 idleling problem…

I had to
manually hold down the accelerator to keep the engine alive.

You must have long arms or someone else was steering.

Your bad battery could very well have been the problem. As the RPM droped
the charge from the alternator droped and the battery voltage droped. when
the ignition voltage got too low the sysnem quit sparking.

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 09:37:40 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Fuel economy

Now I put this down to increased viscosity of the oil when it’s colder
(the oil-cooler has no thermostat). So I’m wondering if the difference
between the two cars may be due to different grades of oil in the two
cars. I admit that the difference Steve is getting sounds a bit large
for this cause but maybe if there’s 20W-50 in the thirsty Jag and 0W-30
synthetic in the other one???

…or maybe different thermostats in the two cars causing a slight
difference in oil temp? (any difference in coolant temp gauge readings?)

This does not compute.

If this were the case then you would get better milage when the car was
overheating. You dont. My XJ-S got the same milage when the radiator was
70% plugged and it was running on an oil pressure of 10 to 30 as it does now
with the radiator cleaned and the oil pressure running 25 to 60. The oil
pressure is a good guage of viscosity. I dont believe your observed
difference has anything to do with the oil viscosity.

The cause of lower milage in colder weather is probably the cold start
mechanisum using more gas on short runs.

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: brownd@filon.ml.com (Dave Brown - London Dev X1818)
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 96 16:25:22 GMT
Subject: sighting of the ultimate XK8?

Hi,

I’ve just spotted what has to be the “posiest” Jag outside my office here in the City of
London. A black XK8 coupe with the (private) registration of…“XK8”!!!

(For our non-british readers most car registrations are of the format “X123 ABC” where X
indicates the year of registration so any “non-standard” number denotes a registration
issued before they started the formal numbering, 1962(?), which has been transferred to a
new car)

At a brief calculation/think I reckon the number plate to be worth CONSIDERABLY more
than the car (47K GBP here in Blighty). For reference, I heard the registration “911 SC”
recently sold for well into six figures. I was about to rush downstairs and question the
driver when he drove off. Has anyone else seen or heard about this car??

Talk about pose value…

Cheers,
David

David Brown,
brownd@ml.com
///_/_/_/_/////_///______
/_/_//_/_/_/_/_/____
/_/_/_/_/______/_/_/_/______
/_/_/_/_/_/_/________/_/_____
___/_/_/////_/_/_/_/_/______
/_/___/_/_//_/_/_/____
///_/_/_/____/////_///_________

From: blkcat@juno.com (Lori J Kroeger)
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 11:30:03 EST
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #507

Hi All,
Could someone forward me volumes #506 and #508? Mine somehow got deleted.
Also in one of the resent digests someone had wrote the address where you
can get
the jag radios fixed. could someone please get me that address? This guy
or company had bought out all the parts from the company that had made
the radios, I can not remember either of the names. I hope this helps jog
somebodys memory.

                                               Thanks

Bill & Lori Kroeger
1985 XJ6
blkcat@juno.com

From: Tom Walker Tjwal@concentric.net
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 12:17:34 -0500 (EST)
Subject: XJS fuel cut off

OH come on now folks, do you really think that if someone wanted to
steal your red jag, that a little thing like the fuel cut off would stop
them. Heck, if there are folks out there “shopping” to steal a particular
model of Jag, they probably know more about the car than you do. And
besides, our little e-mail group is hardly a mecca for “wanna be” car
thieves to learn the tricks of the trade.

My apologies in advance for this little tirade.

Tom Walker
82 XJS HE

From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 96 09:56:00 PST
Subject: re: Greased connectors

 The group is getting the right messages from members about 
 greasing the electrical connectors (using the right stuff, of 
 course).  The open question about whether grease helps or hinders 
 low-current connctions, is - helps.  This is again because a 
 properly fitting connection is a gas-tight metal-to-metal 
 connection.  The dielectric grease is displaced from the contact 
 point and seals the rest of the metal from dirt, corrosives, and 
 moisture.  Oxidation on the exposed metal creeps in and 
 eventually makes the overall connection bad.  Low-current (high 
 impedance) circuits suffer from poor connections as readily as 
 high-current types.
 
 David

From: wje@fir.esd.sgi.com (William J. Earl)
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 10:15:44 -0800
Subject: Table of vehicle statistics (power, weight, …) by model and year?

 Is there a consolidated table somewhere of the vehicle statistics, such

as horsepower, weight, and perhaps performance measures, for the various
Jaguar models?

From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 14:04:36 -0500
Subject: Re: sighting of the ultimate XK8?

On Nov 11, 4:25pm, Dave Brown - London Dev X1818 wrote:

Subject: sighting of the ultimate XK8?
Hi,

I’ve just spotted what has to be the “posiest” Jag outside my office here in
the City of
London. A black XK8 coupe with the (private) registration of…“XK8”!!!

At a brief calculation/think I reckon the number plate to be worth
CONSIDERABLY more
than the car (47K GBP here in Blighty). For reference, I heard the
registration “911 SC”
recently sold for well into six figures. I was about to rush downstairs and
question the
driver when he drove off. Has anyone else seen or heard about this car??

Talk about pose value…

Cheers,
David

Why is the reg so important? I can see that it is an interesting novelty to
have a personalized number, but a 6 digit price? For intangible psyc value? And
they say Americans are car crazy :-). I know that there must be more to it than
I understand, but to an outsider it does seems a bit strange.
I have an original UK plate (post '62) on my “overseas” delivery Etype. Can’t
remember the first 3 digits, but the last are 836C. Did that stay with the car,
do I own that number? Is it worth anything? The 1st owner said that the
factory reg’d it for him - he drove it around Coventry for 2 weeks prior to
shipping it to the states. What does the C stand for? Is there something
important about the factory having reg’d it?
Thanks
Mark McChesney
'65 E-type ots

From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 12:09:51 MDT
Subject: Re: First_time

I live in Portugal and recently i have bought
a 1970 Jaguar XJ6 S1 4.2 Litre.
Besides those it also did something STRANGE yesterday.
I put half a tank of gas in one tank (the other was empty),
and after a few kilomiters(sorry miles!), the gas had MOVED
frome one tank to the other !!!
Since it is a carburator version it has no return fuel pipe
from the engine. Is this a miracle, or can it be that the other
fuel pump is letting some fuel going backwords !

My guess is that the fuel pump check valve(s)
are stuck in the open position. Gravity would then take its toll and
move the fuel to equilibrium in both tanks. Good luck and welcome to
the Jag-lovers list !

Kind Regards,

Jim Cantrell

From: jonathon@protech.com (Jonathon Shevelew)
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 19:19:19 GMT
Subject: Re: convertible top protectant

On Fri, 8 Nov 1996 14:47:53 -0500, you wrote:

Is there a waterproofing/protecting treatment for the cloth tops on late
model Jags?
I have a very good condition 1991 XJS Conv. and I would like to treat =
the top
with something to preserve it as long as possible.
Unfortunately, I do not have a garage, hence it stays out in the =
elements a
lot.
Julian Mullaney

There is a product in the Jag accessory catalogue for this purpose.
My guess is that it is a silicon type spray. Does anyone know if you
can use a regular silicon waterproofing spray on the roof without
doing any damage???

Jonathon Shevelew
'95 XJ-S 4.0L Convertible
'93 VDP
'96 Explorer (something for the kids to dirty up)
jonathon@protech.com

From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 15:48:16 -0500
Subject: XJS running temperatures

I hate to bring up a much discusssed subject again but…
My XJS exhibits unusual temperature readings. At lower speeds th temp. guage
never goes above half way betweeen the bottom and the N mark. However, when
I really thrash it at high speeds, it will go just below the N mark. After
thrashings, if I stop and turn it off, the needle will go ever so slightly
above the N mark until I start it up again.
The car never runs higher than N, and never overheats.
It seems that the faster you go, especially on a cold day, the cooler the
engine should run. Is there something wrong with the car?

Julian Mullaney

From: “J. Bijlsma” 101604.1743@CompuServe.COM
Date: 11 Nov 96 15:48:37 EST
Subject: XK 150 3.8 cylinder head

I have bought a spare cylinder head, for my XK 150 3.8 late model fhc, because
the origional one was corroded in the waterholes.
On the ‘new’ cylinder head are the folowing marks: JAG 158 NC 9329-9 EV 966 C14958 (I think the original number was C14956, because the number 8 has been altered) Can anybody tell me from which type of jaguar this head can be. Kind regards Jan Bijlsma from the Netherlands. From: ehuff@tuba.aix.calpoly.edu (Earl D Huff) Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 12:59:54 -0800 Subject: re: all Jags came from Browns Lane… At the recent Open House at XKs Unlimited I came across a Mark II that they were restoring for a gentleman in Mexico City. Under the hood, by the radiator was a small copper plaque that said in Spanish that the car was assembled in Mexico. by Willys Motors of Mexico. Earl Huff 85 XJS 53 XK 120 From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell) Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 15:57:29 -0600 Subject: Re[2]: another wimp And you let him get away with this? MikeC ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Re: another wimp Author: treadwel@ieway.com at Internet Date: 11/7/1996 7:07 PM Most of you imply it’s the man giving up the car for the lady. Well let me tell you gentlemen that my husband decided I should be driving a 4 cylinder 4-door 97 Honda Accord. There goes my 87 XJS V12. Not quite the same driving experience. JT From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 13:28:38 -0800 Subject: Re: XJS running temperatures This sounds about normal to me. You do have to remember that the XJS generates a tremendous amount of heat. The faster you go the harder you are actually working the motor. At 03:48 PM 11/11/96 -0500, Juliansean@aol.com wrote:

I hate to bring up a much discusssed subject again but…
My XJS exhibits unusual temperature readings. At lower speeds th temp. guage
never goes above half way betweeen the bottom and the N mark. However, when
I really thrash it at high speeds, it will go just below the N mark. After
thrashings, if I stop and turn it off, the needle will go ever so slightly
above the N mark until I start it up again.
The car never runs higher than N, and never overheats.
It seems that the faster you go, especially on a cold day, the cooler the
engine should run. Is there something wrong with the car?

Julian Mullaney

From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 16:48:25 -0500
Subject: Re: 4.2 e-type head

On Nov 10, 7:19pm, Jeffrey Gram wrote:

Subject: Re: 4.2 e-type head

Mark McC :

could someone tell me?

No !. The S3 fuel injection head is a normal angle head as all Jaguar XK
heads
were apart from the Special D-type head fitted to the Works race D-types.

Thank you, I asked the question a few months ago but got no reply, so now I
know! There is a picture of a wide angle head on the Lynx page.

Mark McC:

A friend of mine in the UK used a fuel injection head on his D-type
replica. He was very pleased with it because it looked like a real D-type
motor.

The heads from a early E-type looks VERY similar to any other Jaguar XK head,
so
I don’t understand what the “cool” look is about.

I must be wrong, maybe he found a real D-head, or maybe it was not a wide angle
head at all - it was 1990 when I saw the car(167mph on the M1 !) and he sold it
in '91 (three things start to go when you hit 30, the first is your memory,
can’t remember the other two :-)). I thought that he got the head from a S3 XJ6

- this was the source of my confusion.

Stick to the smooth polished early type covers.

Yes, absolutely.

Mark, you do have 9:1 pistons in there or not?,

Yes, but will be replaced with something like 10.5:1 forged. Motor will be
totally rebuilt - just want to know the best parts to start with. Guess if my
head is OK I will just stick with it.

Gran Turismo has a 4.2 with 1 3/4" valves and 3 SUs (I think they are
actually 1 1/2" SUs!) that claims over 400 hp on the dyno.
I would be very happy with 265 (real) h.p. Factory said 265hp - heard that
180hp was closer to reality.
Thanks Jeff.

Mark McChesney

From: mkenrick@golder.com (Michael Kenrick)
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 13:54:48 -0800
Subject: UK Plates

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Mark McChesney asks

Why is the reg so important? I can see that it is an interesting novelty to
have a personalized number, but a 6 digit price? For intangible psyc value? And
they say Americans are car crazy :-). I know that there must be more to it than
I understand, but to an outsider it does seems a bit strange.
I have an original UK plate (post '62) on my “overseas” delivery Etype. Can’t
remember the first 3 digits, but the last are 836C. Did that stay with the car,
do I own that number? Is it worth anything? The 1st owner said that the
factory reg’d it for him - he drove it around Coventry for 2 weeks prior to
shipping it to the states. What does the C stand for? Is there something
important about the factory having reg’d it?

You say potato, we say something else…
1. In the UK, a license plate is assigned to the car, not the owner. It
  goes with the car, not the owner.
2. In the UK, there is no such thing as custom vanity plates. You cannot
  fill in a form, send in thirty bucks and get a plate saying “XK8” by return
  post.
3. In the UK, there is only one licensing authority, not the 50 they have
  in the US. Plate numbers are assigned in a semi-random manner. So each
  plate in the UK is UNIQUE and, in theory, lasts for ever.
4. Due to 3 above, they soon ran out of 3-letter, 3-number combos in the
  mid sixties and started adding a letter at the end to represent the year:
  CKR 375B, etc That lasted for 20 odd years. Then they switched it around:
  B375 CKR. That’s the current format.
5. In consequence of all of the above, and the desire of some individuals
  to have the English equivalent of “vanity plates” the market in unique
  plates is nothing short of phenomenal. There is a process involved in
  transferring a plate from the original vehicle. The price quoted should
  come as no surprise.
(Hope this quick synopsis has not been outdated by any changes in the last
ten years

Michael Kenrick
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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 12 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 512

Jag Lovers-digest
Re[2]: Re; Where’s the HP - V12
Re: 4.2 E-Type head
Re: Fuel economy
Re: re: all Jags came from Browns Lane…
Re: 4.2 e-type head
Re: re: all Jags came from Browns Lane…
Race engine - for dburleig@ix.netcom.com
Re: XJS running temperatures
Re: XJS running temperatures
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #500
all jags come from Browns Lane
mailing list
XJ6 - SIII - Power Steering Noise
Re: re: Buying my first jag
trunion bearings
Re: XJ6 - SIII - Power Steering Noise

From: Red90Jag@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 16:52:53 -0500
Subject: Jag Lovers-digest

Hi, I found your page on the net & am interested in getting involved ! I have
a '90 XJ6 that I just picked up after about 25 years of wanting a Jaguar & am
interested in any information thats available. If you know of some addresses
or phone numbers that I can get in touch with to gather some info on parts,
or anything that has to do with the car , I’d be very interested, any help
would be welcomed !
thanks alot
Dave

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 16:58:16 -0600
Subject: Re[2]: Re; Where’s the HP - V12

The 350 CID engines in the '86 Corvettes both produce less than 1 hp/cu.in.

The standard 'vette engine is rated at 300, the Grand Sport’s engine is rated at
330. That’s 0.86 and 0.94 respectively, the equivalent of 258 or 306 hp for the
326 CID Jag V-12. Seems like the same ballpark.

MikeC

PS: The Jag is a Ford product …
PPS: Immediately after the Ford buyout, I saw a new XJ-S at my local dealer
sporting an equally new vanity plate: “FORD V12”

MC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Re; Where’s the HP - V12
Author: palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu at Internet
Date: 11/8/1996 12:48 PM

If this had been a Ford or Chevy product, the exact same 5.3l engine
would be producing something well in excess of 1 hp/ci, probably
something in the mid- to high-300’s.

             -- Kirbert

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 16:34:23 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: 4.2 E-Type head

(three things start to go when you hit 30, the first is your memory,
can’t remember the other two :-)).

If I was you I would keep my foot off the gas and stay below 30.

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@CompuServe.COM
Date: 11 Nov 96 17:53:28 EST
Subject: Re: Fuel economy

Dan,

I think the increased fuel consumption of your fuel injected Jaguar in the
winter (I assume?)
probably has more to do with the increased warm up period, in which the engine
runs enriched. Have you tested the consumption in “Hot” conditions only ?.

In colder weather the power of the engine should be greater (slightly), but also
the volumetric efficiency (better and more powerfull fill of the cylinders),
however this may
not be true at part throttle ?.

Just a guess.

RRegards Jeffrey Gram

From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@CompuServe.COM
Date: 11 Nov 96 17:53:30 EST
Subject: Re: re: all Jags came from Browns Lane…

Hi Arnold,

This is new to me !. I honestly never knew that some Jags were made on license
in other countries. After all Jags were exported from UK to the far east and
Australia, but
maybe South Africa is a having a special place ?.

Does anybody know more ?

Regards Jeffrey Gram

From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@CompuServe.COM
Date: 11 Nov 96 18:36:05 EST
Subject: Re: 4.2 e-type head

Hi Mark McC,

Gran Turismo has a 4.2 with 1 3/4" valves and 3 SUs (I think they are
actually 1 1/2" SUs!) that claims over 400 hp on the dyno.
I would be very happy with 265 (real) h.p. Factory said 265hp - heard that
180hp was closer to reality.

The S3 head (4.2) has standard 1 5/8" exhaust valves and 1 7/8" inlet valve,
where as most earlier heads (apart from the very early) had 1 5/8"" exhaust and
1 3/4" inlet (XJ S2 + XJS1 + E-TYPES + MK II’s MK X’s , XK150’s…more).

A 1 1/2" SU is a H4, DL4, HD4, HS4 ot HIF 4. These were not used to feed a 4.2
Jag., but a 1.5 or 2.5 or even 3.5 jag in 1946 to 1954

recent Jags(1949 onwards run on 1 3/4" H6 range or
1 7/8 HIF 7 range or
2" HS8 / HD8 range (twins or triples.) 1961 E-type to XJ’s.
The XJ12 ran also on six HD6’s

a 400 HP head is a mindblowing performance of a 4.2. It definately needs triple
HD8’s or triple Weber DCOE45’s or DelLorto’s, or Fuel injection.

A raceprepared 3.8 at 350 - 395 HP is about 20.000 US $ - just ask Tony at
Vicarage.

The 265 HP rating for a 3.8 or 4.2 liter 25 years ago is a socalled SAE rating.
This is measured, with no ancillaries taking power, no dynamo, pumps etc.

Nowadays its Kilowatts, or BHP which is a DIN rating, and can be taken to be 25
% less (thumbs rule).
A standard 4.2 carbed in Europe on 8.7:1 is about 170 DIN HP. Yours should run
close if not slightly above 200 DIN BHP. With a 10.5:1 compression you’re
already beggin for 110 Octane fuel, Electronic servo ignition with knock control
(i’m serious) so why not kick a few more drops out to about 230 BHP with
modified cams… But going further really requires ultimate balancing,
torsional vibration damper (GTJ) and other expensive goodies.

When will the beast be ready ? (about

Regards Jeffrey Gram

From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@CompuServe.COM
Date: 11 Nov 96 18:36:08 EST
Subject: Re: re: all Jags came from Browns Lane…

Hi Earl,

I’m amazed. MK II’s assembled by Willys Motors of Mexico ! You’re the second to
point out a different than UK origin. Another
Chap reported South Africa.

Well, we learn every day…

Regards Jeffrey Gram

From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@CompuServe.COM
Date: 11 Nov 96 18:46:48 EST
Subject: Race engine - for dburleig@ix.netcom.com

Sorry to bother you, but the subject address failed .

If the originator of the Jagweb address sees this message please respond.

CCMAIL:
Status: Delivery failed
Time: 22:26:26 GMT 11-Nov-96
Reason: Unable To Transfer Message
Diagnostic: Recipient Address Is Not Registered on the CompuServe Mail Hub

Jeffrey Gram

From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 18:18:14 -0600
Subject: Re: XJS running temperatures

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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From: Juliansean@aol.com To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: XJS running temp Date: Mon, Nov 11, 1996 2:48 PM

I hate to bring up a much discusssed subject again but…
My XJS exhibits unusual temperature readings.At lower
speeds the temp. guage never goes above half way betweeen
the bottom and the N mark.

ok.

However, when I really thrash it at high speeds, it will go just
below the N mark.

anytime you have your foot in the throttle the engine is making
combustion/heat… the more you press the pedal the more fire
in the hole

After thrashings, if I stop and turn it off, the needle will go ever
so slightly above the N mark until I start it up again.

this is a normal condition and is sometimes refered to as
“hot soak” Look at it this way, if you run an engine it produces
heat. The heat that is normally carried from the engine block by
the water/coolant/antifreeze remains in the block when the engines
water pump stops turning. The temp gauge merely registers this
temporary increase in engine heat. Normal.

The car never runs higher than N, and never overheats.

All is well, especiall since the underhood temp of an XJS is
high. The temp is high enough that the fuel system employes a fuel
cooler that is cooled by the suction side of the air conditioning
system.

A point of interest, the Hess & Eisenhardt (H&E)
convertible/conversion built prior to 1988 has three seperate fuel
cells. The original tank is cut in half along it’s length and diagonally
from the top front “corner” to the lower rear “corner” To compensate
for the loss of volume in the original tank H&E installed a fuel cell in
what used to be the rear bookshelf… err… seat. This tank uses a GM
throttle body type in tank fuel pump to spray the contents of the
H&E tank into the original fuel tank. They are connected by a 1 3/4 inch
hose and when the original tank is full the fuel simply drains back into
the H&E tank which is inside the passenger compartment. The third
fuel cell in the original “sump” tank in the lower right side of the boot.
With all the aeration of the fuel in the fuel rail on top of the engine,
the
two fuel pumps and the constant cycleing of the fuel between three
tanks the fuel cooler is an absolute necessity in the summer months.
Heat just murders this fuel delivery system.

If you or anyone else has one of these H&E conversions I came up
with a modification for the delivery of fuel directly into the sump tank
from H&E’s tank and will eliminate just about every problem
associated with the “bastardized” fuel system. Including the stalling
on steep inclines. I came up with the fix while I was in the employ of
Thoroughbred Motorcars here in Nashville, Tennessee. I was also
pulling my hair out at the time. H&E convertibles look great but weigh
about 500 lbs more and have some strange problems at times.

It seems that the faster you go, especially on a cold day, the cooler
the engine should run. Is there something wrong with the car?

remember more throttle means more heat regardless of the ambient
temperature.

Julian Mullaney

nice to cybermeet you

Tim Blystone
pcsolutions@mindspring.com
TLBlystone@aol.com

------=_NextPart_000_01BBCFFC.B43E2360
Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

> From: Juliansean@aol.com = To: jag-lovers@sn.no
> Subject: XJS running temp Date: Mon, Nov 11, = 1996 2:48 PM
>
> I hate to bring up a much discusssed = subject again but....
> My XJS exhibits unusual temperature = readings.At lower
> speeds the temp. guage never goes above half = way betweeen
> the bottom and the N mark.

ok.

> = However, when I really thrash it at high speeds, it will go just
> = below the N mark.

anytime you have your foot in the throttle the = engine is making
combustion/heat... the more you press the pedal the = more fire
in the hole

> After thrashings, if I stop and = turn it off, the needle will go ever
> so slightly above the N = mark until I start it up again.

this is a normal condition and is = sometimes refered to as
"hot soak" Look at it = this way, if you run an engine it produces
heat. The heat that is = normally carried from the engine block by
the = water/coolant/antifreeze remains in the block when the engines
water = pump stops turning. The temp gauge merely registers this
temporary = increase in engine heat. Normal.

> The car never runs higher = than N, and never overheats.

All is well, especiall since the = underhood temp of an XJS is
high. The temp is high enough that the = fuel system employes a fuel
cooler that is cooled by the suction side = of the air conditioning
system.

A point of interest, the Hess = & Eisenhardt (H&E)
convertible/conversion built prior to 1988 = has three seperate fuel
cells. The original tank is cut in half along = it's length and diagonally
from the top front "corner" to = the lower rear "corner" To compensate
for the loss of = volume in the original tank H&E installed a fuel cell in
what = used to be the rear bookshelf... err... seat. This tank uses a = GM
throttle body type in tank fuel pump to spray the contents of = the
H&E tank into the original fuel tank. They are connected by a = 1 3/4 inch
hose and when the original tank is full the fuel simply = drains back into
the H&E tank which is inside the passenger = compartment. The third
fuel cell in the original "sump" = tank in the lower right side of the boot.
With all the aeration of = the fuel in the fuel rail on top of the engine, the
two fuel pumps = and the constant cycleing of the fuel between three
tanks the fuel = cooler is an absolute necessity in the summer months.
Heat just = murders this fuel delivery system.

If you or anyone else has one = of these H&E conversions I came up
with a modification for the = delivery of fuel directly into the sump tank
from H&E's tank and = will eliminate just about every problem
associated with the = "bastardized" fuel system. Including the stalling
on steep = inclines. I came up with the fix while I was in the employ of =
Thoroughbred Motorcars here in Nashville, Tennessee. I was also =
pulling my hair out at the time. H&E convertibles look great but = weigh
about 500 lbs more and have some strange problems at times. =

> It seems that the faster you go, especially on a cold day, = the cooler
> the engine should run. Is there something wrong = with the car?

remember more throttle means more heat regardless = of the ambient
temperature.

> Julian Mullaney

nice = to cybermeet you

Tim = Blystone
pcsolutions@mindspring.com
TLBlystone@aol.com

- ------=_NextPart_000_01BBCFFC.B43E2360--

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 19:49:34 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJS running temperatures

Julian: The faster you go the faster the water goes thru the
radiator,having less time to cool off,that is why the temp goes up. This
is normal.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: “Ed Freige” edf@borrego.asd.sgi.com
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 17:58:09 -0800
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #500

Splitting the list sucks!! We are Jaguar owners, its not as though
you have a Cadillac and I have a Chevy - Jaguars are Jaguars there is
no pecking order or status of one versus the other - all share many
components and often times something can be picked up from a conversation
about a model other than yours that shares a common part or problem.
I was against the “XK” split off due in part that they do share many
components with the later “XKEs” and XJ series. In my humble opinion we
“lose” to those that have this desire to be more “puristic” (is that a
word?) and want have discussions ONLY about XKs.
Location, location, location - that is paramont if we want to keep a
strong and united group of Jaguar enthusiasts. In other words, lets
not have to run all over the internet to pick up pieces and tidbits
of info that will hopefully enlighten us in the quest to keep our cats
up and running.
I have two Jaguars that are 19 years apart, yet they share many
common/similar parts as well as problems. I like being able to go to
the “Costco” of Jaguar and find all that I need under one Web page.
(Costco is a place where you can buy everything from an Automobile
to groceries).
If pushing the delete button or scroll with the mouse is too much
trouble, then hey that’s too bad, I would really hate to see the
Jaguar enthusiast camp break up into many smaller elitist groups.
I think the preface to each digest works very well, and often times
I do blow off the entire digest due to content that would not be of
interest to me at that time. I think this current system works and
when it works, don’t try to fix it.

Ed Freige
66 XKE weekend warrior since 1972
85 XJS daily driver since 1988

Ed Freige tele: 415.933.4177
Manager - Product Design fax: 415.961.9075
Advanced Systems Division email: edf@asd.sgi.com
Silicon Graphics Computer Systems mail stop: 8L.565

From: Kon Kakanis kkakanis@sundata.com.au
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 13:28:29 ±1100
Subject: all jags come from Browns Lane

Hi, I’m new to the group and have a '71 S1 XJ6 with around 200,000 miles =
as a daily driver, and a 51 Mk VII with around 50,000 miles as the =
weekend car (?). Happy to correspond with any 7,8,9 owners.
Apart from Mark IIs from Mexico & XJ6’s from South Africa, XJ6’s were =
also assembled in New Zealand during the Series 2 era.
Kon Kakanis
Brisbane, Australia
kkakanis@sundata.com.au

From: Robert Dawson maduro@cris.com
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 23:01:06 -0500
Subject: mailing list

i want on please …

From: “John Littler” auibmdak@ibmmail.com
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 23:30:01 EST
Subject: XJ6 - SIII - Power Steering Noise

Hi all,
The XJ6 has started to make a groaning noise when you turn the wheel. It
is slightly louder the harder the lock. It always used to make a slight
groan at full lock if you held it there for a while ( i.e waiting to make
u-turn)but over the last couple of days (week at most)it has quickly got
more prominent. There has been a slow leak from the right hand side
“boot” if that’s the right word - the accordion styled rubber cover which
appears to be covering part of the steering componentry. This has been
apparent for about 2 months - it leaves a puddle roughly an inch and a
half in diameter after standing overnight. i.e low volume. 2 questions:

what should I be looking at repairing
is the noise indicative of an imminent failure (i.e should I be off
the road until I fix it, or is it likely to be OK for a week or so)
Thanks for your help
John

Level 1, 29-57 Christie St.
St Leonards NSW 2065
Ph: +61-2-9937-8063 Fax: +61-2-9937-8100
Mobile +61-419-617-619

From: RMac@aol.com
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 23:33:50 -0500
Subject: Re: re: Buying my first jag

Dear Bruce,
Hope this repy does not come too late. Keeping up with the list on a daily
basis is too much for me, and I tend to read it in batches. Inasmuch as no
one else has replied publicly, let me give you the benefit of my own
experience in purchasing a 1990 XJ40 this last May.

The car was in excellent shape inside, very good outside, and had low (under
40,000) mileage, but I have still spent over 3,500 dollars so far.

The biggest question to ask is: Has the rear suspension been modified? All
early USA XJ40s came with a self leveling suspension which has proven totally
inadequate in service. Figure on replacing it every two years, or converting
to a conventional steel springs & conventional shocks arrangement. Either
way the cost will be close to US$1,000…
Another thing to watch for on early cars is rust through on the bonnet and
boot lids. Look for suspicious blistering expecially on the trailing edge of
the boot.
Other than that, budget on spending a few grand on petty things.
My personal experience:

        Item            Parts CostLabor Cost  Other     Total

7,500 Mile Service $69.68 $157.50
driver’s rear window inopera $0.00 $43.50
Bulb for fog lamp $9.90 $0.00
replace trunk lid gasket $57.70 $75.00
replace bulb in c pillar rea $1.50 $32.25
check bulb in trip computer $0.00 $24.75
Misc. shop supplies and waste disposal $17.37
Totals $138.78 $333.00 $17.37 $518.50
3 day rental while being serviced $127.14

Batteries for remotes $6.76 $7.17

clean & disinfect trunk $30.00 $156.00
Fuel door gaiter $12.28 $91.00
trunk liner $108.68

Misc. shop supplies and waste disposal $3.00
Totals $150.96 $247.00 $3.00 $425.02
1 day rental while being serviced $69.94

Rear shock conversion $522.50 $195.00
Water pump & gasket $165.75 $130.00
Antifreeze (3 gal) $25.50
Clean corrosion from wheel hubs $32.50
Adjust wiper arm, secure cowl finisher $32.50
Totals $713.75 $390.00 $1,169.98
1 day rental while being serviced $63.58

key ring $15.24 $16.15
lock/alarm transmitter (2) $112.10 $118.83
Bulb for fog lamp $9.90 $10.49
Bulb for license plate lamp $0.78 $0.83
wiper blade $2.99 $3.17

Replace fuel muffler hose $181.18 $37.50
Balance 4 tires $75.00
replace steering rack boots $79.08 $75.00
repack & tighten front wheel bearings $187.50
replace leaking abs hose y p $137.55 $112.50
Replace all engine belts $27.18 $112.50
Misc. shop supplies and waste disposal $19.00
Totals $424.99 $600.00 $19.00 $1,106.63
1 day rental (est) $69.94

MORE WAITING TO BE PERFORMED:
repair rear stub axle bearing leak $267.00 $225.00
valve cover gasket leakng $46.44 $112.50
replace left rear door lock $101.92 $112.50
replace both fog lamps $245.42 $75.00
replace engine mounts with newer style ? ?

     Total to date:$3,550.72 (Note: totals include 6% sales tax)

All work done on my car has been by the dealer or independent specialists who
charge almost as much. Do not trust your car to anyone who does not know
RECENT Jaguars; they are quite different from the older ones.
It would be very prudent to have the car checked out by a dealer before
purchase. KNOW what the car needs.

…
In a message dated 11/12/96 12:03:48 AM, Bruce Madge wrote:

From: Bruce.Madge@mail.bl.uk (Bruce Madge)
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 10:54:02 +0000
Subject: Buying my first jag
Dear Jag Lovers

I am in the process of making the decison to buy a Jag, having 
lusted after one for some time. I currently run a SAAB 9000 SE 
Turbo (F reg) and it would be a part exchange deal so I want to 
make the right decision so as not to let myself in for grief at 
home!!!

My local garage (not a Jag dealer)has a "D reg" (1986/87??) XJ6 - 
presumably XJ40 for 3995 pounds sterling (about 6000 dollars). 
The registration is D862RGT ( is there a previous owner out 
there?)It is a very light blue metallic, auto box with leather. 
On close examination of the bodywork it appears excellent and has  a Jag enthusiast club sticker in the rear window (surely a good  sign??). I have not yet taken the plunge and accosted the  salesman but I would like to know what to look out for?? I know a  service history is vital but is there anything else to consider? Can anyone help a potential Jag owner?? WBW Bruce Madge Car lover and Librarian (!!!) From: DHarr13177@aol.com Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 00:40:08 -0500 Subject: trunion bearings My experience is that u - joints are always worn   , when  pulled apart and examined.  There are always grooves on the trunions . I just did the half shaft u joints on my E - type with 20,000 mi and they were greased regularly. Yes they were worn. I've done several cars at various mileages - the same results. And they feel tighter when driving after. Doug From: Roger Hartonen <etohart@eto.ericsson.se> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 09:06:16 +0000 Subject: Re: XJ6 - SIII - Power Steering Noise Hi John, A temporary solution that has worked for me and others is: Fill up the system with power steering fluid, and the noise hopefully goes away... The noise when you make the turns sometimes comes from not having enough power steering fluid in the servo. Try it! Roger Hartonen, DVP -85 John Littler wrote:
Hi all,
The XJ6 has started to make a groaning noise when you turn the wheel. It
is slightly louder the harder the lock. It always used to make a slight
groan at full lock if you held it there for a while ( i.e waiting to make
u-turn)but over the last couple of days (week at most)it has quickly got
more prominent. There has been a slow leak from the right hand side
“boot” if that’s the right word - the accordion styled rubber cover which
appears to be covering part of the steering componentry. This has been
apparent for about 2 months - it leaves a puddle roughly an inch and a
half in diameter after standing overnight. i.e low volume. 2 questions:

what should I be looking at repairing

is the noise indicative of an imminent failure (i.e should I be off
the road until I fix it, or is it likely to be OK for a week or so)
Thanks for your help
John

Level 1, 29-57 Christie St.
St Leonards NSW 2065
Ph: +61-2-9937-8063 Fax: +61-2-9937-8100
Mobile +61-419-617-619

John Littler wrote:

Hi all,
The XJ6 has started to make a groaning noise when you turn the wheel. It
is slightly louder the harder the lock. It always used to make a slight
groan at full lock if you held it there for a while ( i.e waiting to make
u-turn)but over the last couple of days (week at most)it has quickly got
more prominent. There has been a slow leak from the right hand side
“boot” if that’s the right word - the accordion styled rubber cover which
appears to be covering part of the steering componentry. This has been
apparent for about 2 months - it leaves a puddle roughly an inch and a
half in diameter after standing overnight. i.e low volume. 2 questions:

what should I be looking at repairing

is the noise indicative of an imminent failure (i.e should I be off
the road until I fix it, or is it likely to be OK for a week or so)
Thanks for your help
John

Level 1, 29-57 Christie St.
St Leonards NSW 2065
Ph: +61-2-9937-8063 Fax: +61-2-9937-8100
Mobile +61-419-617-619

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #512

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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 12 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 513

Re: XJ-S Fusebox Cover
Poseur XK8
Poseur XK8
Poseur XK8
SE London dealers
Feuling Failure #1 and #4 - Need Advice
XK list
New Jag web sites / Jag Fun / Germans around here ?
Head Information
XK-8 And Plate numbers
RE: re: '91 XJ6 IDLELING PROBLEM
Re: Fuel Cut off
Re: XJS running temperatures
Re: Fuel economy
Re: Where’s the HP - V12
Re: XJS running temperatures
wheel-bearings(again)
RE: buying first jag
On bicycles (was Winter and other miseries)
Need Articles
Re: On bicycles (was Winter and other miseries)

From: Greg Meboe meboe@mulder.scs.wsu.edu
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 01:18:04 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S Fusebox Cover

Kirby,
Yes the headlight fusebox does have a cover.
I believe, (but can’t confirm since my car is in the States!), that the
cover is the same clear cover used on the RH underdash fusebox on all
XJ6-S SII-SIII cars.

	Greg
                        Greg Meboe     meboe@atc.boeing.com
		  Currently on assignment in Central France...
		  Web site>> http://www.scs.wsu.edu/~meboe
		    Mechanical Engineer  Boeing Payloads Division
		    '85 XJ-12 H.E. (daily)  '67 Spit-6 '74 TR-6

From: Adam Clark aclark@internal.brann.co.uk
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 96 08:56:00 G
Subject: Poseur XK8

I agree, a very posey plate. Very tacky, too.

I never cease to be astounded by the sums these personalized
registrations fetch. However, if some dope wants to spend fifty grand on
a plate, good luck to the guy (or gal) who takes the money off him.

Adam Clark

aclark@brann.co.uk

a la recherche d’une SIII XJS

From: Adam Clark aclark@internal.brann.co.uk
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 96 08:56:00 G
Subject: Poseur XK8

I agree, a very posey plate. Very tacky, too.

I never cease to be astounded by the sums these personalized
registrations fetch. However, if some dope wants to spend fifty grand on
a plate, good luck to the guy (or gal) who takes the money off him.

Adam Clark

aclark@brann.co.uk

a la recherche d’une SIII XJS

From: Adam Clark aclark@internal.brann.co.uk
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 96 08:56:00 G
Subject: Poseur XK8

I agree, a very posey plate. Very tacky, too.

I never cease to be astounded by the sums these personalized
registrations fetch. However, if some dope wants to spend fifty grand on
a plate, good luck to the guy (or gal) who takes the money off him.

Adam Clark

aclark@brann.co.uk

a la recherche d’une SIII XJS

From: Bruce.Madge@mail.bl.uk (Bruce Madge)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 08:57:47 +0000
Subject: SE London dealers

 Can anyone recommend any Jaguar dealers in London and the South 
 East?? I am looking for a "reasonably" priced XJ40 (late eighties 
 early nineties) after someone beat me to buying the D reg I had 
 my eye on.
 
 Bruce
 Almost a jag owner...

From: “Quang Ngo” jaguar@gaianet.net
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 21:00:06 -0800
Subject: Feuling Failure #1 and #4 - Need Advice

Hi Jag lovers,

I have an 1989 XJ40 and it has a few problems. I hope someone could give
me some advice on how to go about getting these problems taken care of.

The car idles rough even when it’s hot. It idles at about 700 RPM,
which is correct according to the manual. I can hear some hissing
sound from the engine. It sounds like some vacumn line is losen.
When the car is started in the morning (about 70 degrees F) the RPM
goes up and down from 500 to 800 until it’s hot. Sometimes even when
it’s hot it idles very smooth, then all the sudden it becomes rough
and the “Feuling Failure” warning comes on. When I reach my
destination,
I turn off the car, wait 10 seconds then switch the key to ON position
and let it do the diagnostics. It comes out to be warning #1.

I replaced the crankshaft speed sensor with a brand new one but the
problems doesn’t go away.

When it idles rough the battery meter shows about 9 - 10 volts at idle
and 13 when driving at 30 - 50 MPH.

When it idles smoothly the meter shows about 14 volts.
Occasionally, Feuling Failure #4 (four) shows up as well.

I’m looking for some advice. This should be fun to work on, I think.
I just spent $1K to replace the 4 wheel bearings… It drives smoothly
now.

    _,'|             _.-''``-...___..--';)  
    /_ \'.      __..-' ,      ,--...--'''   Quang Ngo
   <\    .`--'''       `     /'             jaguar@gaianet.net
    `-';'               ;   ; ;

__…–‘’ …–…’ .;.’
(,…----‘’’ (,…–‘’

From: John Elmgreen 100353.1733@CompuServe.COM
Date: 12 Nov 96 05:11:51 EST
Subject: XK list

Re XK-Lovers: not to be confused with XKE-Lovers of course:

How do I join?

Send e-mail to majordomo@listserv.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM with
```
 subscribe xk-lovers
```
in the body of the message.

If you have problems, send a message with just “help” in the body.
Majordomo will send you help.

By the way, congratulations to the XKE list for such phenomenal success in a few
days!
Regards, John Elmgreen

From: JagLinks@aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 06:44:41 -0500
Subject: New Jag web sites / Jag Fun / Germans around here ?

Hi Jag lovers,

Please have a closer look at

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Perthes/jaglinks.htm

This is NOT meant to be any kind of competition to Nick’s wonderful web site
;-)) !

I have included a section called “Jag Fun” at the bottom of
//…jaglinks.htm.
Any “fun input” is welcome!

We (UK based Jaguar Enthusiasts’ Club, Germany section / Darmstadt area)
just wanted to start in the web by ourselves. You’ll find our very first web
page at

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Perthes/JECGerm.htm

I think we will have more German language Jag infos & links in the future.
I would appreciate any of your comments, critics and flames
(the last not to be a must

If there’s any other Jag lover around the globe speaking German, or maybe any
other J.E.C. (Germany) member, or just somebody living in our area, please
get in touch.
We are very glad to profit from your overwhelming knowledge and experiences,
and we will try our best to contribute as well.
Also we would like to invite you to our monthly meeting (see JECGerm.htm for
details).

Due to the high number of messages from jag-lovers and xke-lovers,
I have set up yesterday an extra email address jaglinks@aol.com.
So please just forget about 100277.1037@compuserve.com.

Sorry for any mistakes in spelling or grammar.
Sorry for this long message, had no time for a shorter one

CU in cyberspace!
Stephan Perthes, Darmstadt, Germany

E-Type 2+2 SI 1966< >JagLinks@aol.com<

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Perthes/jaglinks.htm<

“Hope I die before I get old” (C) 1967 Pete Townshend/The Who<

From: “White, Dick” white@msgate.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 08:52:00 -0500
Subject: Head Information

Jan,

According to my records that head is off a MK IX, 3.8L. The head is a
‘B’ type head and should be painted medium metallic blue. If you are
interested, pictures of my S-Type head with identifying numbers can be
found at the following URL:

http://www.intex.net/~cci/index.html

Follow the path to ‘cylinder head information’

Regards,
Dick White

From: “J. Bijlsma” 101604.1743@CompuServe.COM
Date: 11 Nov 96 15:48:37 EST
Subject: XK 150 3.8 cylinder head

I have bought a spare cylinder head, for my XK 150 3.8 late model fhc,
because
the origional one was corroded in the waterholes.
On the ‘new’ cylinder head are the folowing marks: JAG 158 NC 9329-9 EV 966 C14958 (I think the original number was C14956, because the number 8 has been altered) Can anybody tell me from which type of jaguar this head can be. Kind regards Jan Bijlsma from the Netherlands. From: “Nuno Abreu” nunoabreu@hotmail.com Date: 12 Nov 1996 14:27:54 -0000 Subject: XK-8 And Plate numbers Somebody wrote:

Why is the reg so important? I can see that it is an interesting >>novelty
to have a personalized number, but a 6 digit price tag

To me a Car is made for driving and riding if you are interested
in restoring it to it’s original state (right down to the original
plate number) then go for it! But if you are spending more money
on the plate then some people do on there house, then there must
be something wrong with you or with the world.

By the way thanks to everybody who gave me there sugestons
on my fuel problens. i will try them this weekend and report
the results here.

Bye.

Get Your Web-Based Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

From: “Nuno Abreu” nunoabreu@hotmail.com
Date: 12 Nov 1996 15:04:04 -0000
Subject: RE: re: '91 XJ6 IDLELING PROBLEM

I agree with Jim Isbell…
A battery that is completly dead behaves like a closed circuit
i.e.: Low resistance=high current=short cuicuit.
Since electricity flows by the easyest path, that means that
no current flows to the other electrical components of the car.
Your battery did not become a perfect conductor so it did not
drain the whole current that was being produced by the alternator
(especially when you acelerated).

Bye !

Get Your Web-Based Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

From: “Nuno Abreu” nunoabreu@hotmail.com
Date: 12 Nov 1996 15:24:19 -0000
Subject: Re: Fuel Cut off

Tom Walker said:

OH come on now folks,do you really think that if someone wanted to
steal your red jag, that a little thing like the fuel cut off >would stop
them. Heck, if there are folks out there “shopping” to >steal a particular
model of Jag, they probably know more about the >car than you do. And besides,
our little e-mail group is hardly a >mecca for “wanna be” car thieves to learn
the tricks of the trade.

True but if you make your own cut-off switch and hide it where
nobody knows, it might be a good way of saving your favorite
Jag

Bye !

Nuno Abreu

'70 XJ6 4.2L MOD (long live manual Jags !)

Get Your Web-Based Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 08:55:24 MDT
Subject: Re: XJS running temperatures

Chad Bolles wrote:

Julian: The faster you go the faster the water goes thru the
radiator,having less time to cool off,that is why the temp goes up. This
is normal.

I don’t mean to be picky here, the conclusion is right, the
reasoning is wrong. As the engine speed goes up, the water is
pumped through the heat exchanger (radiator) faster with a resulting
increase in heat exchange rate. The forced convection heat transfer
increases with increased speed and Reynold’s number. If the car is
going down the road faster, the air flows through the external side
of the heat exchanger thus increasing that transfer rate too.
However, as the speed of the motor increases to obtain these
effects, the waste heat rejection also increases. What’s happening
in Julian’s case is that as speed increases, the radiator’s ability
to reject heat increases more rapidly than the increase in waste
heat rejection in the motor. When this happens, the coolant’s
temperature decreases to reduce the waste heat rejection rate at the
radiator. The rate at which the heat exchange fluids pass through
the system is very important as well from a thermodynamic
standpoint. The higher the rate of fluid passing through the
radiator, the more heat per unit time that can be rejected for a
given temperature difference between the air and the coolant. My
guess is that in Julian’s case, the choke point is the air at low
speeds. Sounds like you have a normal cooling system, however. My
E-type that I had did the same thing. The PO even tried to tell a
cop that “he had to drive it fast - otherwise it overheats !”. He
got the ticket anyway. Sorry for a lecture on heat transfer and
thermodynamics so early in the morning. It always made me sick to
my stomach in college.
Kind Regards,

Jim Cantrell

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 21:24:39 -0005
Subject: Re: Fuel economy

Jeffrey Gram, continuing a long thread:

I think the increased fuel consumption of your fuel injected
Jaguar in the winter (I assume?) probably has more to do with the
increased warm up period, in which the engine runs enriched.

While I was on the HONDA-L list, the difference in oil viscosity was
discussed. Older Hondas use 10W-40, while the newer cars are
designed to run on 5W-30. The problems arose when the dealers,
avoiding keeping two oils in stock, put 10W-40 in newer cars as well.
It’s legitimate according to the owner’s manual, but the result is a
10% loss in fuel economy!

We’ve had people on here changing oils between winter and summer, and
it’s entirely possible that the same oil – especially a
non-synthetic – can vary in viscosity with temperature enough to
make a noticeable fuel economy change.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 21:24:39 -0005
Subject: Re: Where’s the HP - V12

Kirby:

If this had been a Ford or Chevy product, the exact same 5.3l engine
would be producing something well in excess of 1 hp/ci, probably
something in the mid- to high-300’s.

MikeC:

The 350 CID engines in the '86 Corvettes both produce less than 1
hp/cu.in.

The standard 'vette engine is rated at 300, the Grand Sport’s
engine is rated at 330. That’s 0.86 and 0.94 respectively, the
equivalent of 258 or 306 hp for the 326 CID Jag V-12. Seems like
the same ballpark.

What should be clear to all jag-lovers is that comparing the hp/ci of
a Chevy pushrod lump to an OHC Jaguar V-12 is totally inappropriate.
Try comparing the Jaguar engine to other engines of the same quality
and era.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 11:38:49 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJS running temperatures

On my '82 XJ-S, I added mechanical water temp gauges to understand what
tempss the car was running at. On my car at least, just below the N is
180 degrees F. One third up to the N from the bottom is 150 degrees F.

When you are running hard, the motor is getting up to normal temparature
and your excellent cooling system is doing its job.

John

On Mon, 11 Nov 1996 Juliansean@aol.com wrote:

never goes above half way betweeen the bottom and the N mark. However, when
I really thrash it at high speeds, it will go just below the N mark. After
thrashings, if I stop and turn it off, the needle will go ever so slightly
above the N mark until I start it up again.
The car never runs higher than N, and never overheats.

From: hached01@bh.bbc.co.uk (Dieter Hachenberg)
Date: 12 Nov 96 18:10:02 GMT
Subject: wheel-bearings(again)

I posted a question about changing wheel bearings, and got little
response. Surely there is someone who has experience of changing the rear
wheel bearings on an XJ6 SIII? Is it difficult? I’m loathed to take it to
the Jag man and pay “through the nose” if I can do it myself. Anyone out
there?

Any help much appreciated!

Dieter Hachenberg

From: gjones@blue.weeg.uiowa.edu (Gregory James Jones)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 12:22:25 -0600
Subject: RE: buying first jag

On 11/12 96 RMac responded to Bruce Madge on buying his first jag. I have
been on the list for six months and this is my first response, (it has
taken me this long to get through my messages). I own a 89 XJ40 with 50K
which I have owned for two years. I have two notes to add on service.
First it is my understanding that Ford will pay for a rental car during OD
service even if the car is purchased used. This is Ford way of making us
feel betteras we pay our bill. However (suprise) you have to ask for it. I
have taken advantage of this service twice, once for a week and again for a
month while the OD replaced the rear axle. This brings me to the second
point. My OD noted on the 30K service that the rear axle seals were
begining to leak and should be replaced within the next six months. Three
months later I took it in for the replacement after noticing several drips
on the garage floor. They replaced the seals and 1K miles later the rear
end began to wind. The OD took some responsibility since it happened after
only three weeks. The OD installed a new rear end for the price of a
rebuilt one, $1.400 instead of $2.500. Also I did not recover the $600 it
cost to replace the seals in the first place. Word to the wise, in last
months Jaguar Digest in an article about the first 10 years of the XJ6 they
noted that rear end failure is common in the XJ40. " Its like they don’t
have enough lubrication in them". So when you see the drops of oil on the
garage floor, top the rear end up and keep checking it until the seals are
replaced.

Gregory Jones
University of Iowa
Metalsmithing
89 XJ40
57 MGA

From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 11:44:53 -0700 (MST)
Subject: On bicycles (was Winter and other miseries)

Nice post, John. Your ending quote got me thinking, though.
Please forgive me for straying a bit off the topic of this group.

{“If its got wheels I love it” (except bicycles. If God had wanted us to
{ride bicycles he wouldn’t have invented internal combustion.)

Once upon a time I had a good friend named Rick. Rick was a great guy,
very smart, 40 years old and in the prime of his life. But, Rick ate
alot of bad food and he didn’t ever exercise. One day Rick had a heart
attack. Then he had a really bad stroke. He lingered horribly for a
year, terribly crippled and all stroked out, before his poor heart
finally gave out entirely and he passed on beyond the pain. We were all
very very sad and missed Rick alot. It made me think alot about life,
death, what living really is and how the lights could go out tomorrow.
The experience drives me to make sure that I reserve lots of time for my
wife and kids, with an emphasis on play, fun and adventure. And I leave
time for myself too, doing the various things which keep me fulfilled.

I now have Rick’s cool job. I sit in Rick’s comfortable chair, at
Rick’s big desk, in Rick’s nice corner office, in this glorious high
tech laboratory in the middle of a pristine mountain park, on the top of
a tall mesa overlooking Boulder, Colorado. My workstation is positioned
such that I’m always looking out my huge floor-to-ceiling picture window
to the northwest, along the delicate, graceful boundary where the high
plains sweep up to become the front range of the Rocky Mountains. We
keep a pair of binocs on the shelf to watch the pretty white sailplanes
wheeling overhead in search of thermals, the rock-climbers scaling the
flat-iron rock formations just to the west or the wave-clouds stacking
up over the mountains. In the morning I see wisps of valley fogs and
coyote families yapping and playing in the tree-line, the afternoon
brings a steady parade of mule deer and joggers past my window, every
evening I watch the red back-illumination of the low foothills showing
them to really be crescent-shaped dunes similar to wind-formed desert
sand dunes before being treated to the purple shadows of the tall
mountains pushing out across the prairie, up into the sky and back
across the heavens. Far below, the nightly light-show of the city’s
power-grid begins to twinkle and shine. This is a great place to work
(if you can call it that) in an unbelievably beautiful setting. Rare is
the day when I don’t find myself thinking how lucky I am to be here.

The few days when I drive my Jaguar to work, Rick’s ghost always sits
quietly and comfortably in the plush passenger seat next to me. I love
to crank the stereo and push that Jaguar hard, feeling rather than
hearing the wonderful note of the powerful 4.2L Jaguar engine surging up
the steep mountain road, all wrapped in curved steel, warm leather and
rich walnut, with the race suspension soaking up the curves and twists.
Rick’s ghost really likes it too.

Most of the time, though, I leave my pretty Jaguar parked at home and I
ride my road bike to work. Every morning, as I make the long, cold
climb up the mountain through the thin, high-altitude air, I’m usually
alone but not alone. Rick’s ghost usually tags along, riding there
right beside me. He likes it best when I just spin up the hill, slow
and steady.

But, I’ve found that if I get up out of the saddle and push it hard,
I can drop that pale ghost. If I keep on working harder, I can pull
away, temporarily leaving him and his buddy, Death, far, far behind me.

That’s why I ride.

/\ Lawrence Buja http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern
_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
________________Boulder,Colorado___80307-3000

From: blkcat@juno.com (Lori J Kroeger)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 14:26:04 EST
Subject: Need Articles

Hi,

I’m wondering if anyone would happen to have a WEB or other source, for
obtaining past road and performence tests and articles on 1985 Jaguar
XJ6’s. Also, any reviews at production time would be handy. Thanks!

***If anyone has the original dealer promo hand-outs with photo’s and
spec’s, I would be willing and anxious to buy them!

				Bill and Lori Kroeger
				'85 Jaguar XJ6

From: Andrew David Metz ametz@umich.edu
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 14:40:20 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: On bicycles (was Winter and other miseries)

Lawrence-
As an avid mountain biker and a Triumph enthusiast, I must say that I
really enjoyed your article. Unfortunately, many people seem to forget
the importance of regular exercise, and as a result, shorten their time
here on earth. Along the same line of reasoning, if your time on earth is
shortened, then your time to enjoy the wonders of the internal combustion
engine is shortened. Bummer.
You gotta remember…If you leave your lovely vintage car without exercise
for a while, then it will kick off. But if you go without exercise for a
while, then YOU might kick off. I guess my point is this: Treat your body
as good as you treat your car.

		-Andrew Metz

Drive a Triumph- Small but powerful cars for small but powerful people…

On Tue, 12 Nov 1996, Lawrence Buja wrote:

Nice post, John. Your ending quote got me thinking, though.
Please forgive me for straying a bit off the topic of this group.

{“If its got wheels I love it” (except bicycles. If God had wanted us to
{ride bicycles he wouldn’t have invented internal combustion.)

Once upon a time I had a good friend named Rick. Rick was a great guy,
very smart, 40 years old and in the prime of his life. But, Rick ate
alot of bad food and he didn’t ever exercise. One day Rick had a heart
attack. Then he had a really bad stroke. He lingered horribly for a
year, terribly crippled and all stroked out, before his poor heart
finally gave out entirely and he passed on beyond the pain. We were all
very very sad and missed Rick alot. It made me think alot about life,
death, what living really is and how the lights could go out tomorrow.
The experience drives me to make sure that I reserve lots of time for my
wife and kids, with an emphasis on play, fun and adventure. And I leave
time for myself too, doing the various things which keep me fulfilled.

I now have Rick’s cool job. I sit in Rick’s comfortable chair, at
Rick’s big desk, in Rick’s nice corner office, in this glorious high
tech laboratory in the middle of a pristine mountain park, on the top of
a tall mesa overlooking Boulder, Colorado. My workstation is positioned
such that I’m always looking out my huge floor-to-ceiling picture window
to the northwest, along the delicate, graceful boundary where the high
plains sweep up to become the front range of the Rocky Mountains. We
keep a pair of binocs on the shelf to watch the pretty white sailplanes
wheeling overhead in search of thermals, the rock-climbers scaling the
flat-iron rock formations just to the west or the wave-clouds stacking
up over the mountains. In the morning I see wisps of valley fogs and
coyote families yapping and playing in the tree-line, the afternoon
brings a steady parade of mule deer and joggers past my window, every
evening I watch the red back-illumination of the low foothills showing
them to really be crescent-shaped dunes similar to wind-formed desert
sand dunes before being treated to the purple shadows of the tall
mountains pushing out across the prairie, up into the sky and back
across the heavens. Far below, the nightly light-show of the city’s
power-grid begins to twinkle and shine. This is a great place to work
(if you can call it that) in an unbelievably beautiful setting. Rare is
the day when I don’t find myself thinking how lucky I am to be here.

The few days when I drive my Jaguar to work, Rick’s ghost always sits
quietly and comfortably in the plush passenger seat next to me. I love
to crank the stereo and push that Jaguar hard, feeling rather than
hearing the wonderful note of the powerful 4.2L Jaguar engine surging up
the steep mountain road, all wrapped in curved steel, warm leather and
rich walnut, with the race suspension soaking up the curves and twists.
Rick’s ghost really likes it too.

Most of the time, though, I leave my pretty Jaguar parked at home and I
ride my road bike to work. Every morning, as I make the long, cold
climb up the mountain through the thin, high-altitude air, I’m usually
alone but not alone. Rick’s ghost usually tags along, riding there
right beside me. He likes it best when I just spin up the hill, slow
and steady.

But, I’ve found that if I get up out of the saddle and push it hard,
I can drop that pale ghost. If I keep on working harder, I can pull
away, temporarily leaving him and his buddy, Death, far, far behind me.

That’s why I ride.

/\ Lawrence Buja http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern
_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
________________Boulder,Colorado___80307-3000

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #513

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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 13 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 514

Re: XJS running temperatures
On bicycles
Re: XJS running temperatures
Re:4.2 e-type head/long
Re: On bicycles (was Winter and other miseries)
New Jaguar Online site and O/S Jaguar builds
Re: XJS running temperatures
Re: XJS running temperatures
Air Conditioning - noise -XJ40 -1988
Repair of cracked B-type head (E-type) ??
ABS problem-XJ40 -1988
Re:Your XJ40 Fueling Failure #'s 1 and 4
Re: Trunion Bearings…
Newly aquired ‘E’ Type
Re: On bicycles (was Winter and other miseries)
Re: XJS running temperatures
Re: Where’s the HP - V12

From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 15:09:00 -0500
Subject: Re: XJS running temperatures

In a message dated 96-11-12 11:38:52 EST, jgn@li.net (John Napoli) writes:

<< When you are running hard, the motor is getting up to normal temparature
and your excellent cooling system is doing its job. >>

Is the group opinion then that the V12 only ever reaches proper operating
temp. when running hard - implying then that the rest of the time it is
running too cool?
I guess this would not surprise me, but I thought that engines were designed
to run at one specific temperature (plus minus a bit) governed by the
thermostat.

Julian Mullaney

From: “Alastair Lauener” a.lauener@napier.ac.uk
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 96 20:26:34 gmt
Subject: On bicycles

SNIP

But, I’ve found that if I get up out of the saddle and push it hard,
I can drop that pale ghost. If I keep on working harder, I can pull
away, temporarily leaving him and his buddy, Death, far, far behind me.

Another fine piece of memorable writing from Lawrence, how do you do it for the
price?

Alastair Lauener

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 15:48:48 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJS running temperatures

On Tue, 12 Nov 1996 Juliansean@aol.com wrote:

Is the group opinion then that the V12 only ever reaches proper operating
temp. when running hard - implying then that the rest of the time it is
running too cool?

I was not trying to make this point. However, on my car there are times
when it runs a little cooler than ‘normal’. Maybe a nice downhill run on
a cool day, the trip being too short to warm up completely.

My point was that whenever your car can see ‘normal’ temp, it is ‘normal’.
No higher. So your cooling system is doing its job.

John

From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 15:49:50 -0500
Subject: Re:4.2 e-type head/long

Hi Jeff
On Nov 11, 6:36pm, Jeffrey Gram wrote:

Subject: Re: 4.2 e-type head
Hi Mark McC,

a 400 HP head is a mindblowing performance of a 4.2. It definately needs
triple
HD8’s or triple Weber DCOE45’s or DelLorto’s, or Fuel injection.

I just talked to Lou at GTJ. I was right about him using smaller than the
stock SUs - they were 1 3/4’ -but not 1 1/2" as I had thought (that darn memory
thing again).
He was forced to use the 1 3/4" SUs by the SCCA in 1981 (he was beating the
p-ss out of Datsun) but found that they actually gave better power between
5,000-7,500 rpm’s than 2" SUs or Webers! He also used them on his red vintage
Etype racer that won at Mid-Ohio in 1990 (this years winning Cobra just tied
the GTJ lap record set in '90). The red car is retired now and it’s for sale
:-). $130,000
But anyway, I have heard from several racers now that SUs are the best thing
for racing XK motors. It defies what one would expect. Lou has a killer dyno
and said he can show the numbers. He just did an engine for a French customer
that demanded Webers, he did 3 extra days on the dyno and finally got similar
high rpm h.p. as the SUs - but the Webers were still not as good in the
mid-range.

A raceprepared 3.8 at 350 - 395 HP is about 20.000 US $ - just ask Tony at
Vicarage.

What I’d really like is Tony’s 4.75 motor

(i’m serious) so why not kick a few more drops out to about 230 BHP with
modified cams… But going further really requires ultimate balancing,
torsional vibration damper (GTJ) and other expensive goodies.

It is all in the works. Lou finally talked me in to having him do a stage 3
head for me (semi race --ahhhh) and since I have a good shop here, he is going
to talk us through building the lower end w/ his modified Venola pistons,
damper flywheel etc. He said that Carrillo rods were not really necessary, that
modified S3 XJ6 rods would take up to 7500rpms(!) I don’t even want to talk
about how much hp he said I’d get but if it is within 75% of his claim I will
be happy. I think I may have to dyno tune the thing. The head is $3,400 - OUCH!
I asked him if I would be loosing out on low end and should I just do a stage 2
head, he said torque is a given in the 4.2 and that the stage 3 head is just a
lot more fun than a stage 2.
I worry about reliability. But what the heck:-))))))

When will the beast be ready ? (about

Before the end of the world but not before 1998

Talk me out of this? Please.

Mark McChesney

From: “Claus, Mike” claus@wg.com
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 96 15:54:56 EST
Subject: Re: On bicycles (was Winter and other miseries)

    Lawrence -
    
    Bravo!
    
    I am rarely moved to respond to the flood of stuff that pours 
    in via the list - particularly when it is somewhat off-topic.  
    But your bicycle post really stirred me.  
    
    I too am a bicycling Jag-lover.  I love to drive my XJ-S, and 
    I do it pretty frequently.  Yet, like you, more often than not 
    I make the 35 miles round trip commute to my office by 
    bicycle.  It is one of the best ways to commute - keeps me 
    healthy, keeps my gas costs down close to what they would be 
    if I owned a 'practical' car, and keeps me from putting an 
    excessive number of miles on the car.  It is also one of the 
    best ways to clear my head before and after a really hectic 
    day in the office rat-race.  (Sounds like your office rat-race 
    is WAY nicer than mine - I want your window!)
    
    Glad to know there is a least one more of us out there.
    
    BTW - do you know a good way to put a bike rack on your Jag 
    without risk of damage?
    
    - mclaus 
    
    '93 XJ-S Convertible
    '92 Cannondale T-1000 touring bike

From: jagmag@ecn.net.au (Hughes Graphics and Design)
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 06:39:04 +1000
Subject: New Jaguar Online site and O/S Jaguar builds

Since I have sent a few messages through on this fabulous service there have
been a number of e-mail messages with regards the origins of the Australian
Jaguar Magazine which we have been producing since 1984.

Being in the southern hemisphere it was a little difficult to make the
magazine widely known, but since the internet that has changed quite a deal.
The magazine is a high quality 76 page one in its #70th edition, and in
June we were the first publication to drive the XK8 in Coventry. Part of
our full report is in our Online version of the hard copy one and that’s at:

http://www.firehorse.com/jaguar.

We have great assistance from the factory and also Jaguar Australia over the
years, but cover all enthusiast areas and our regular writers in the past
have included Lofty England, Andrew Whyte and Roger Woodley. Among our
European writers now are Paul Skilleter and Graham Gauld.

Have a look at the site and see what you think. Our hard copy magazine
subcriptions are very reasonable, and if anyone would like further details
please feel free to contact me by e-mail.

With regards to the ex-England build of Jaguars, this has gone on since 1948
when cars were assembled in Belgium because of prohibitive duty which was
introduced in that country then. Only several months later the same thing
happened in New Zealand and MkVs (and Singers) were assembled in Auckland.
Then in the 1970s Series 1 and then S2 XJ6s were assembled by BL at Nelson
in the South Island alongside Triumph saloons. The Jaguars were always
painted locally and had interior trim made in NZ making them quite distinctive.

Jaguars were also assembled in South Africa, and if anyone has ever seen a
Series 2 XJ6 ‘Executive’ (with vinyl trim) it is one of those cars.

As mentioned in another of the messages, Jaguars have also been sent to
Mexico in CKD (Completely Knocked Down) form, and they also been assembled
in Northern Ireland!

That is all of the places I can think of off the top of my head, but it did
come very close in Melbourne, Australia where the importer Bryson
Industries, purchased a site and had a full design completed to assemble the
‘Mk1’ there in 1956!

It should also be remembered that many of these things happened under the
control of Sir William Lyons who, in light of the debate going on at this
forum, always utilised products from where ever they were available.
Remember that the tail lights on a ‘Mk1’ also were used on Morris Minors and
others - but what would people say now if a new Jaguar used the same lights
as a Ford Mondeo (perish the thought!).

Whatever anyone says, Ford is doing a great job of supporting Jaguar, and
the quality control of the build instituted now is bringing the marque the
sort of respect it so much needs having been tarnished for so long under BL
and then under-financed until it came along.

Regards

LES. HUGHES

From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 16:14:47 -0500
Subject: Re: XJS running temperatures

In a message dated 96-11-12 15:49:11 EST, jgn@li.net (John Napoli) writes:

(refering to V12 operating temperatures)

However, on my car there are times
when it runs a little cooler than ‘normal’. Maybe a nice downhill run on
a cool day, the trip being too short to warm up completely.

My point was that whenever your car can see ‘normal’ temp, it is ‘normal’.
No higher. So your cooling system is doing its job. >>

I’m still trying to understand this. Mostly because I’m probably a bit
over-sensitive to overheating in my newly aquired XJS.
My car will run all day long at low speeds at a lower temperature on the
guage. At high speeds the temp. is higher. The only conclusions I can make
are:

The thermostats are wide open all the time (after warm up) and the
engine runs at different temperatures based on load, ambient temp. speed etc.
The thermostats are controlling the upper temperature limit but NOT the
lower limit. This sounds like a fault in the operation of the thermostats.
In this case if you were driving slowly in extreme winter cold the car could
run at a temperature that is way too cold.
Julian Mullaney

From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@CompuServe.COM
Date: 12 Nov 96 17:57:17 EST
Subject: Re: XJS running temperatures

Jim,

I love these discussions. Solid engineering is always interesting.
If I follow you correctly at speed where the radiator’s ability
to reject heat increases more rapidly than the increase in waste
heat rejection in the motor (an assumption I presume - see later) the coolant
temperature decreases, which in turn decreases the radiator haet transfer rate
(I presume due to the smaller difference in coolant -air media.

Thus for a given system , speed etc, the system settles at a certain coolant
temperature e.g. at the radiator inlet - Correct ? (not assuming effects of
thermostat -
consider a thermostat less system for the moment)

Depending on the size of the radiator with respect to the engine power the
scenario with decreasing coolant at speed is true to a varying degree depending
on radiator size - correct ?

Some think I’m Mad but I’m sure the radiator system on a Jag XJ series is only
marginal - certainly in the V12. If the radiator capacity is indeed only
marginal and in an older jag with a semiclogged radiator we would see the a near
oppositre scenario
to th on eyou described. System idle temperature Ok, coolant dropping slightly
at slow speeds but raising fast as speed is increased, since now assuming the
inferior radiator cannot reject the heat the engine produces and coolant
teemperature goes up quicker than the reject rate of the radiator - correct ?

If so you early morning note was my missing link to explain why a perfectly
well
functioning radiator at town and 70 MPH is ok but ig you go 110-120 MPH on a
normal 20 DEG C day the engine overheats slightly.

As Kirby and others has said many times : clean out that radiator.

Just to view all this from another side - If I would rip out the thermostat of
my jag and observe the idlee teemperature go low This would be expectable with a
good working radiator. If I at speed see an increasing temperature rather than a
falling temperature then I know my radiator is shot - corrrect ?
Another scenario : If I have a marginal working radiator and I hammer down the
motorway on a hot summerday with the airco on full blast and I observe a normal
temperature, but upon stopping at a long motoprway queue, with the engine idling
see an staedy increasing -eventually boiling motor I know my cooling system is
shot, but does this necessarily point to the radiator ?

You mentioned that the fluid speed through the radiator is also important, - I
can’t see that connection to higher heat transfer rate - it is not intuitive ?
Did you not implicitly presuppose that the ambient air is able to absorb the
increased “mass of heat” i.e that the flow or air is also higher - that would
make sense. But how can heat transfer be increased by fluid speed alone, when
the coolant to air temperature is constant (in this example). If that however is
true then KJirby’s argument (and mine earlier) that increased capacity waterpump
is a solution to Hot Jags ?.

How do I calculate mu new radiator for the V12, 400 BHP with at least 25% margin
worst case 30 Deg summer , full blast on the highway, and a twin airco system
cooling me and the drinks in the back ?

Who informs the E-type list guys ? - missing all the gold on this list :-)…

Jim If you have more gold you feel an urge to get rid of just offload 'em here
in my box. great stuff for a solid treatment (FAQ/ TECH style) of the subject
e.g for theJag-web :
The Jag-lovers engineering approach to jaguar myths…

Regards Jeffrey Gram

From: Rod Farmer 100646.664@CompuServe.COM
Date: 12 Nov 96 18:02:23 EST
Subject: Air Conditioning - noise -XJ40 -1988

AIR CONDITIONING NOISE - XJ40 - 1988

The air con radiator has been replaced and the system re-gased - this work was
done by a 'fridge engineer. The system works fine, however there is a ‘hissing’
noise which comes and goes when the system is cooling.
I think this may be due to one of three things. Over charged system, Under
charged system or posibly moisture in the system. The forgoing based on my
experience of working on domestic refrigeration.
Any thoughs please?

Rod Farmer
XJ40 - UK|

From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@CompuServe.COM
Date: 12 Nov 96 17:57:20 EST
Subject: Repair of cracked B-type head (E-type) ??

Hi, all

The e-guys tried to sneak off while I was on holiday, but I found out !
I know you wanted a bit more quietness on your list but its Ok to drop a note
sometimes on relevant stuff I presume

I have a B-type head which has suffered overheating (NOT ME - the PO).
Head has cracked in several places from the exhaust valve seat through the
“skull”

to the water jacket and when I saw It I considered the head Scrap. But a family
member kept the head, and question arises - could it be repaired and be reliable
?

I once had a Fiat 500R 1972 that dropped a valve head making a fair amount of
mess to the piston , bores pushrod and smashed the valveseats and a good chunk
of metal was missing between the valve seats. Since heads were difficult to get
on a sunday afternoon, I had all this welded up, hardenen seats, one piece
chrome valves etc, and it looked just like new. Sold the car due to lack of time
befor it ever drove again.

Will the B-type head be bowed such that camshaft may be binding (assuming the
cracks could be welded) or wear out at least in 10.000 miles ?

Has anyone ever been this far out and come out with a working head ?

Regards Jeffrey Gram

From: Rod Farmer 100646.664@CompuServe.COM
Date: 12 Nov 96 18:02:28 EST
Subject: ABS problem-XJ40 -1988

ABS brake problem

My XJ40 (Daimler) is a 1988 model with 160,000 miles on the ‘clock’ and
everything works fine, apart from:
When the car is in the final stage of stoping, with normal pedal pressure, the
ABS system operates for a few seconds. Probably the speed at which this hapens
is just 1 MPH ! The pads are almost half worn.
Happens every time I stop, without fail. Otherwise the brakes work fine. Any
ideas please?

Rod Farmer
XJ40

From: E2plus2@aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 18:12:58 -0500
Subject: Re:Your XJ40 Fueling Failure #'s 1 and 4

Dear Quang:

Quoting the service manual Pt. # JJM 10 04 05 the display fault numbers are
as follows:

Cranking signal failure: no crankshaft sensor signal detected after
cranking for 6 seconds, or the cranking signal line at L12-8 is active above
2000 rev/min.
Airflowmeter failure: either open-circuit or short-circuit to ground.
Coolant temperature sensor failure.
Feedback circuit failure (Federal/Japan only)
Air flowmeter failure: low throttle potentiometer voltage with high air
flowmeter voltage.
Air flowmeter failure: high throttle potentiometer voltage with low
flowmeter voltage.
Idle fuel adjustment potentiometer failure.
Not allocated: should this fault number be displayed, a 6.8 kilohm
resister fitted in place of a hot start sensor is faulty.

This is probably a little bit more than what you wanted and a whole lot less
than what it takes to fix the problem. All I do is keep replacing failed
crankshaft sensors (four now in 73 thousand miles in my 88 XJ40.

Rex Henderson (e2plus2@aol.com)

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 13 Nov 96 9:48:40
Subject: Re: Trunion Bearings…

I haven’t done the trunnion bearings specifically, but let me give you a
general tip that applies to all bearings and seals in the Jag: get equivalent
replacements from your nearest SKF outlet (bring the old bearings/seals so they
can read the type numbers). They’re of the very best (what? me biased?), they
cost substantially less and they’re usually available over the counter.

-Jan

From: “MarrioSD” marriosd@ccmail.apldbio.com
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 96 16:54:26 PDT
Subject: Newly aquired ‘E’ Type

Hi

Some of you may remember I asked about ‘E’ type prices a week ago, well I’ve
done the dirty deed and will take delivery of a 1969 series II 2+2 later this
week.

I was fortuate enough to have a friend staying with me, who earns his living in
the car trade. He previously worked at Davenport cars in the UK that specialist
in early Jag restorations and now works for a business man in the south of
France looking after his vintage cars.

We spent 2.5 hours taking everything out of the car in the quest for rust, but
we were disappointed it is totally rust free.

50 000 miles (engine needs shimming), automatic, new front leather and the rest
in perfect shape, good wires and tyres. Needs painting as the previous owners
have polished through the paint and onto the primer. All the rubber needs
changing as the sun has killed it.

There is a small dent in the bonnet under the right hand light that needs to be
beaten out. If anybody can recommend a panel beater in Northern California that
can do good work as I don’t want filler in the car if possible.

I realise the series II 2+2 automatic is considered the least desirable of all
the ‘E’ Types, but it’s RUST FREE and it’s mine. It also means I can take the
kids out at weekends which will be nice.

One of the ‘S’ Types has to go - the one with the ford engine of course.

Regards

Steve.
1965 ‘S’ type X 2
1969 ‘E’ type
1971 Interceptor
1974 TR6
1993 750 Ninja

From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@CompuServe.COM
Date: 12 Nov 96 19:15:29 EST
Subject: Re: On bicycles (was Winter and other miseries)

Lawrence - a true poet you are and a great painter with words. Got me wishing I
was there to see that sunset. Maybe the inspiring surroundings. Thanks for a
note that punches a big vacumm blow to reality, makes you stop and think, before
the reality falls back on you, rather like a flash from the heavens, a momentary
lapse of time.
Pity about Rick, we all pay for our sins, some earlier and more unfair than
others.

Got to stop driving the V12 to work every day and get that pushbike out too. The
dynamic range of some feet are amazing, 300 on tap below and 0.25 above. Use to
much lower or too little upper gets you in danger - strange world.

Keep pushing those wheels - heaven can wait.

Regards Jeffrey Gram

From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 17:25:01 MDT
Subject: Re: XJS running temperatures

Jeffery wrote:

Thus for a given system , speed etc, the system settles at a certain
coolant temperature e.g. at the radiator inlet - Correct ? (not
assuming effects of thermostat - consider a thermostat less system for
the moment)

That’s correct. This is also why there are thermostats - to maintain
the minimum temperature. They simply begin to restrict flow when the
coolant temp. gets lower.

Depending on the size of the radiator with respect to the engine power
the scenario with decreasing coolant at speed is true to a varying
degree depending on radiator size - correct ?

That’s tru but also dependent on air flow. Since the thermal
resistance is a “series” circuit between the internal convection and
external convection, both are equally important. Its been my
experience that air flow is often the culprit of overheating and the
only recourse is to increase the heat exchange area (bigger
radiator).

Some think I’m Mad but I’m sure the radiator system on a Jag XJ series
is only marginal - certainly in the V12. If the radiator capacity is
indeed only marginal and in an older jag with a semiclogged radiator
we would see the a near oppositre scenario to th on eyou described.

That’s correct. I am inclined to agree with you on the marginal
radiator capacity. It has to be tip-top to work well. I suspect,
however, that the marginality comes from the weak airflow. Jan
discusses removing the horns below the bumper as a means to increase
cooling performance - this strikes me as a smoking gun for this kind
of problem.

System idle temperature Ok, coolant dropping slightly at slow speeds
but raising fast as speed is increased, since now assuming the
inferior radiator cannot reject the heat the engine produces and
coolant teemperature goes up quicker than the reject rate of the
radiator - correct ?

Yes.

If so you early morning note was my missing link to explain why a
perfectly well functioning radiator at town and 70 MPH is ok but ig
you go 110-120 MPH on a normal 20 DEG C day the engine overheats
slightly.

You are right. My E-type would run fine at 0-80 MPH but would
overheat at 80-120 MPH. COme to find out, the core’s solder was
fatiguing and there was less radiator capacity. Replaced the core
and JOY ! 100 MPH with no problems. Marginal cooling systems, which
XJ12 and XJS’s have IMHO, have to be taken care of and maintained
properly to prevent overheating.

Just to view all this from another side - If I would rip out the
thermostat of my jag and observe the idlee teemperature go low This
would be expectable with a good working radiator. If I at speed see an
increasing temperature rather than a falling temperature then I know
my radiator is shot - corrrect ?

In the first order, yes. However, removing the thermostat(s)
disturbs the flow restrictions and will change the Reynolds numbers
in the flow and so there will be some second order effects. Also,
the flow partitions can change in some motors and you may see some
bizarre results. Could also be engine troubles that plain generate
too much waste heat - aka stuck advance or combustion leak at the
head gasket.

Another scenario : If I have a
marginal working radiator and I hammer down the motorway on a hot
summerday with the airco on full blast and I observe a normal
temperature, but upon stopping at a long motoprway queue, with the
engine idling see an staedy increasing -eventually boiling motor I
know my cooling system is shot, but does this necessarily point to the
radiator ?

I would say no. This could be an air-flow problem or an engine
malfunction that generates excess waste heat. Just because the
system overheats, it doesn’t always imply the radiator is bad nor
that a bigger radiator will fix the problem. I cringe when I see
people remove fan shrouds - the engineers put it there for a damned
good reason and removing it usually leads to problems.

You mentioned that the fluid speed through the radiator is also
important, - I can’t see that connection to higher heat transfer rate

it is not intuitive ?

Your right, its not intuitive. Sorry for the mathematics but:

dq = Mdot * Cp * dT

dq = heat transfer rate
Cp = specific heat of coolant
Mdot = mass flow rate of fluid
dT = differential coolant temperature change

But, the overall heat transfer of the heat exchanger is:

q = UareadTmean

q = heat transfer rate
area = heta exchanger area
dTmean = Log mean temperature difference between inlet and outlet
temperature.
U = heat exchanger coefficient
U = 1 / (1/ho + Rfo + Rtube + Rfi + 1/hi )
ho = air convective coefficient
hi = coolant convective coefficient
Rfo,Rfi = fouling resistances (corrosion and fouling)
Rtube = resistance of tubes and fins (this is where solder fatigue
comes into play)

So, you can see that all this garbage is very inter-related and it
takes all of the elements to make a properly operating cooling
system. Higher flow rates usually increase the convective loss rates by
increasing the Reynold’s number but they will transfer more heat for
a given temperature drop . But again, you need both the air
and coolant sides to work since these are “in series”.

If that however is true
then KJirby’s argument (and mine earlier) that increased capacity
waterpump is a solution to Hot Jags ?.

Yes, to a point. I would expect that trying to run the pump faster
would result in more turbulence and no appreciable increase in flow.
I maintain that the better way to “fix” the problem is with better
air-flow. There is a crowded entrance to the radiator and not much
in the way to allow ot to escape the underhood either. Why do you
think that the under-hood temps are so high ? Stagnant air-flow.

How do I calculate mu new radiator for the V12, 400 BHP with at least
25% margin worst case 30 Deg summer , full blast on the highway, and
a twin airco system cooling me and the drinks in the back ?

Good question. Generally, you would have to know the waste heat
generation curve of the motor versus speed and load and then have the
same mapping of U (heat exchanger coefficient) for the radiator too.
nowadays, I beleive that many use finite element codes. that’s how
we do it where I work on cryogenic systems. Same problem, only 300C
colder.

Jim If you have more gold you feel an urge to get rid of just offload
'>em here in my box. great stuff for a solid treatment (FAQ/ TECH
style) of the subject e.g for theJag-web : The Jag-lovers engineering
approach to jaguar myths…

Thanks. I admit, however, that I feel like a bit out of place going
into so much detail. I guess that those who are not interested can
just press delete.

Kind Regards,

Jim Cantrell

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 19:51:17 -0005
Subject: Re: Where’s the HP - V12

Daniel Bowdoin:

as to “era”, however, I assume that you were thrown by MikeC’s
reference to “'86” Corvettes. That was, of course, a typographical
error–the numbers he provided are for the '96 models.

Negative. '86 or '96, the Chevy small block is still a 50’s-era
engine. The Jaguar V-12 is a 70’s-era engine, and as such SHOULD
have much better hp/ci than the pushrod lump. The fact that it
DOESN’T is shameful, and a large part of why Jaguar was never able
to fully capitalize on its fine product.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #514

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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 13 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 515

Re: wheel-bearings(again)
Re: wheel-bearings(again)
test
Re: Fuel economy
Membership
XJ6 - SIII - Power Steering Noise
new find, old challenge XK-150 DHC
Re: XJS fuel cut off
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #513
Digest Sorting
Re: XJS running temperatures
Veneer refinishing
XJ-S Book
Bicycle racks for cars
Re: XJS running temperatures
Re: XJS running temperatures
Re: XJS running temperatures
Re: XJS running temperatures
Re: XJS running temperatures
RE: buying first jag
Re: rally event may 1996

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 13 Nov 96 10:41:59
Subject: Re: wheel-bearings(again)

Sorry, Dieter, didn’t see your original mail. I’ve not changed mine, but I’ve
taken them apart, cleaned the bits, sneered at them and put them together again
with fresh grease. If your car has been correctly assembled with Loctite
Stud-Lock on the splines of the rear hub, you may need a good puller to get the
hubs apart. Mine just fell off, as did the bearing parts (aided by a good thump
on the workbench).

-Jan

From: “Robert Johnson, D.Sc.” bjomejag@sover.net
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 19:52:41 -0400
Subject: Re: wheel-bearings(again)

Dieter Hachenberg wrote:

I posted a question about changing wheel bearings, and got little
response. Surely there is someone who has experience of changing the rear
wheel bearings on an XJ6 SIII? Is it difficult? I’m loathed to take it to
the Jag man and pay “through the nose” if I can do it myself. Anyone out
there?

Any help much appreciated!

Dieter Hachenberg

Replacing the rear hub bearing set is a quite strait forward job if
you havn’t run too long with a bad bearing. If the hub has overheated
or water has penetrated the hub it is possible for the spline to
freeze. When this occurs the entire hub and axle must be dropped and
the spline pressed out. The one tricky aspect is the spacer that sets
the bearing clearance. This spacer comes in step sizes that can only
be determined upon assembly. If the existing spacer is off in
thickness a proper spacer should be ordered. I have had sucess using a
larger allowance in clearance than suggested, and have had no problems
to date. The entire rebuild of a hub carrier including all axle and
trunnion bearings can be done in about 4 hrs, with good luck.

Hope this helps,
Bob Johnson
Brattleboro, Vt.
XJ12L, XJ50, XJS

From: Johnboy jparn007@concentric.net
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 18:53:42 -0600
Subject: test

i have a xk140 roadster. anyone out there i can talk to?

From: scoleman@pcl.net (Steve Coleman)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 19:01:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel economy

Randy Wilson wrote:

First step would be to compare air flow meters. Does either one look like
it’s had the black plastic cover pried off? It’s a common hack job to
richen the meter setting to cover for a poor idle.

Actually, I opened the air meter. When I first got the car the fuel
pump would operate continuously whether the engine was running or not.
I traced the problem to the fuel pump switch within the air flow
meter–the switch had been bent or the armature adjusted such that the
switch was always closed. This started me on a several-week-long project
of trying to find the optimal settings of the armature and its spring.
Acceleration and idle speed varied with the adjustments but fuel economy
never seemed to vary at all–bringing me to my next question. Doesn’t
the O2 sensor signal cause the ECU to maintain a fixed air-fuel mixture
in all closed-loop conditions? What is the relationship between the air
flow meter armature position and the O2 sensor in determining engine
operating conditions?

By the way, I have realized that the engine is operating a too cool a
temperature and am planning on replacing the thermostat this
weekend–maybe this will improve economy some.

Steve Coleman, Gadsden, AL
1987 XJ6 x2

From: Michael Tari mtari@MNSi.Net
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 20:22:38 -0500
Subject: Membership

To whom it may concern:

I’m a 23 year old industrial electrician from Windsor, Ontario, Canada. I
have an 85
XJ-6 that I bought about 3 years ago and an 88 XJS that I bought about 5
Months ago.
I feel that this organization might be the best medium thru which to find
what I need
to keep up the cars I have now as well as help in any future purchase’s.
Any inform-
ation you could send me would be appreciated.

                                                                 Thank You
                                                                 Michael

Tari

From: Kon Kakanis kkakanis@sundata.com.au
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 11:33:52 ±1100
Subject: XJ6 - SIII - Power Steering Noise

Keep checking the power steering fluid level! Is the fluid on the floor =
red in colour? ie like auto transmission fluid. Suspect that your =
steering rack needs to be rebuilt, or otherwise the steering pump leaks =
and needs new seals (and the leak makes it’s way down and only appears =
to come from the rack boot.

In any case, noticeable amounts of power steering fluid on the floor =
probably means the car won’t have power steer for much longer.

From: Bob Wright rwright@netrover.com
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 20:43:01 -0500 (EST)
Subject: new find, old challenge XK-150 DHC

Yes, it can still happen…a garage door opened after 18 years of ivy
accumulation, and there is a rough but un-altered XK-150 drop head coupe,
and for a sum, and a flatbed truck, it was relocated to my garage. It
retains all the original serial numbered parts, chassis, engine, head,
transmission. It is quite tired and the chassis and body are in great need
of attention. It shows 50,000 miles on the clock and seems to have original
wires in good shape and two of the tires are possibly original (Dunlops)
The top bows are there but top and seats are rotted away. All sheetmetal
needs work but it comes with many extra parts and accessories including
carbs, generators, trim, head, starters nd a host of Mk VIII panels (front
wings, doores windows, boot and hood. This puts me in a pickle as I already
have a long accumulated stable of British restoration projects in various
stages of repair including an Allard “M”, AH 100M, MG-TD and Bond minicar.
Yes my wife is still with me but the Jag may change that! Is this a
project that anyone else would be interested in tackling or is their a
support group to get me thru this continued sickness of Lucas
nightmares?..Bob (Toronto, Canada)

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 13 Nov 96 9:59:16
Subject: Re: XJS fuel cut off

Tom Walker : OH come on now folks,…

Of course, Tom. The only good anti-theft device is a secret one, and especially
one that doesn’t leave the car dead but mimics a reasonably typical fault, so
the prospective thief doesn’t simply hot-wire the car (very easy under-bonnet
work on the Jag if the thief is knowledgeable; all it takes is a brace of
crocodile leads). Which is why I tell no-one about the special wiring I’ve
installed.

But hey, the fuel cut-off stops iggerunt joy-riders…

-Jan

From: Don Tracey dont@echuca.net.au
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 12:34:32 -0700
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #513

@owner-jag-lovers-di1 wrote:

jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 12 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 513

From: “Nuno Abreu” nunoabreu@hotmail.com
Date: 12 Nov 1996 14:27:54 -0000
Subject: XK-8 And Plate numbers

Somebody wrote:

Why is the reg so important? I can see that it is an interesting >>novelty
to have a personalized number, but a 6 digit price tag
HOWS THIS-
Odd Spot in todays Melbourne Age:
Dave Parker 27,couldn’t afford a personalised no plate in
Britain,changed his name to match his number plate ,he is now MR C539
FUG

From: “Rennick, Kim (AS01)” KRennick@p03.as01.honeywell.com.au
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 96 12:52:00 EST
Subject: Digest Sorting

This is a resend, as the original appears to be lost somewhere in the
cyber-ether…

From: Rennick, Kim (AS01)
To: ‘jag-lovers (post)’
Subject: Digest Sorting
Date: Monday, 11 November 1996 9:09AM

My thought for the day - or week, perhaps…

I’ll start with the disclaimer that I know very little about majordomos or
such matters, so if my suggestion is ridiculous, please let me down
gently…

Is it possible for the mojordomo (or whatever rank he now holds) to
automatically sort the digest by the ‘subject’ line, in alphabetical order,
prior its being transmitted?

This would have the benefits of:
- grouping the initial request / question and linked responses
together, and
- grouping all matters relating to a given model together (eg XJ40: xxx
yyy)
It might also have the added benefit of encouraging us all to adopt a more
rigorous and rational use of the ‘subject’ line…

It could go some way to providing a ‘mini-digest’ within the full digest,
whilst letting everyone peruse as much of the full digest as takes their
fancy (or time permits). (And no, I am not suggesting breaking up the list,
or even entering into that discussion, since I consider the ‘nays’ to have
the power of logic on their side on that one)

This would only be feasible if it can be done automatically - no, I’m not
suggesting that Nick spends hours per day re-ordering the digest layout!

First, someone tell me if is possible / simple, then, is it a reasonable
suggestion?

Best regards,
Kim Rennick
'88 3.6L Sovereign

From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 20:32:28 -0600
Subject: Re: XJS running temperatures

: From: Juliansean@aol.com To: jag-lovers@sn.no
: Subject: XJS temps Date:Tues, Nov 12, 1996 3:14 PM
:
: > However, on my car there are times when it runs a little cooler
: > than ‘normal’. Maybe a nice downhill run on a cool day, the trip
: > being too short to warm up completely. My point was that whenever
: > your car can see ‘normal’ temp, it is ‘normal’. No higher. So your
: > cooling system is doing its job.
:
: I’m still trying to understand this. Mostly because I’m probably a bit
: over-sensitive to overheating in my newly aquired XJS. My car will run
: all day long at low speeds at a lower temperature on the guage. At
: high speeds the temp. is higher. The only conclusions I can make are:
:
: 1) The thermostats are wide open all the time (after warm up) and the
: engine runs at different temperatures based on load, ambient temp. speed
etc.

If it’s open all the time and isn’t stuck open and working correctly the
engine
is soon going to overheat. That would mean that the water returing to the
engine from the radiator is at a temp higher than the thermostats rating.
Not good. For any engine. Bad.

: 2) The thermostats are controlling the upper temperature limit but NOT
the
: lower limit. This sounds like a fault in the operation of the
thermostats.
: In this case if you were driving slowly in extreme winter cold the car
could
: run at a temperature that is way too cold.
: Julian Mullaney

If the water in the engine is below the thermostats rating then it’s
closed.
If it’s higher then it’s open (hopefully)

A thermostat rated at 190 degrees Fahrenheit will open and close at plus
or minus 3 degrees of it’s stated rating. As with all mechanical things it
has “tolerances”. Some of which we find intolerable

It’s pretty simple. The more you press the throttle the more heat the
engine
makes. The cooling system can keep the engine from overheating but can’t
keep the engine at exactly the same temp all the time. It can only keep
it
in a certain range. The temp may be slightly lower at lower engine RPM’s
and slightly higher at higher engine RPM’s, but will fall within an
acceptable
range. The thermostat is closed till it reaches it’s particular rating then
it
opens. The rating is the point at which it comes off it’s seat, lets say
190
degrees Fahrenheit. The pump then pushes water through the engine and
hot water is pushed into the radiator as cooler water is pulled into the
engine. You can see that at any outside temp this process operates
with little regard for ambient temp. Of course if the ambient temp is too
high to allow the water to cool sufficiently while it’s still in the
radiator
the engine is going to overheat. Maybe somewhere in Nevada this could
be a problem. On the other end if the temp is very low then the engine
will take longer to reach operating temperature.

Tim Blystone
pcsolutions@mindspring.com
TLBlystone@aol.com

“Newspaper taxis arrive at the shore, waiting to take you away,
climb in the back with your head in the clouds, and you’re gone”
Lennon & McCartney 1967

From: DocJagry@aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 21:33:17 -0500
Subject: Veneer refinishing

Hello everyone,

I’ve always used spar varnish to refinish my wood in the past, but I was
recently talking to a local professional restorer who works primarily with
Rolls Royces, and he mentioned that he’s recently switched to using the clear
coat of exterior base coat/clear coat automotive paints (ChromaClear or
similar products). He claims the resulting finish
reaches final hardness rapidly (always a problem with varnish), is flexible
enough not to crack, and has excellent UV light resistance. The work he
showed me looked excellent, but I’d appreciate knowing if anyone else out
there has tried this and what their experience has been.

Thanks
Jon Schrock
1977 XJ12L
1965 E Type FHC
1956 XK 140 FHC

From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 19:49:53 -0700
Subject: XJ-S Book

Hi everyone,

Any of you have Paul Skilleter’s new (relatively) book on the XJ-S?..I’ve
been thinking about geting it and thought some of you might offer some
insight as to whether it is any good. Thanks,

Rob W-M
85 XJ-S

From: Jay Laifman JLAIFMAN@PNM.MHS.CompuServe.COM
Date: 12 Nov 96 21:42:49 EST
Subject: Bicycle racks for cars

On bicycle racks without harming cars, Performance Products, which sells
products for Porsches (as well as other places I am sure), sells a
bicycle rack that gets mounted to the license plate mounting holes. A
metal plate goes behind the license plate and has four holes to match the
license plate. The metal plate has a bracket which comes out from
beneath the license plate and goes in front of the plate. To this
bracket a bike rack can be attached that holds the bikes up somewhat like
those racks you see on Jeeps and similar trucks, etc. I can’t say how
strong these holes are. But, I have been seeing these racks all over the
place here in Los Angeles. Personally, I detest driving to somewhere to
ride, and prefer riding there.

Jay Laifman
Klien Rascal, Grafton Brakes, GripShift, RockShox, XTR rest
Paramount Ontair
Lippy Tandem
Sunbeam Alpine
Porsche 911

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 21:27:52 -0600
Subject: Re: XJS running temperatures

A data point.

A month ago I purchased a 1985 XJ-S

Around town an a 75F day the temperature remained with the needle in the
center of the “N”. If I pushed it out on the road the temp went up slightly
above the “N”. When I slowed down and left the highway the temo would go up
to half way between the “N” and “H” but bool bacl down shortly as I cruised
the residential areas.

I then tore it down and discovered that the water pump was out of tollerance
(more than 25 ths clearance from the blates to the body, more like 40 ths.
There were leaves blocking the lower third of the radiator between the
radiator and the AC condenser. The radiator was taken to a shop to be
rodded out and it was found that the UPPER 1/3 of the radiator was blocked
with “Bars Leaks” Thus the cooling capacity of the radiator was reduced by
about 66% yet the car was still not BADLY overheating.

When the repairs were finished the car ran about a needle width below the
“N” around town on a 65F day, and just on the lower edge of the “N” on the
highway.

The following day was 80F and the needle rested on the bottom edge of the
“N” around town and in the middle of the “N” on the highway.

So with a newly cleaned system the car runs slightly warmer on the highway
than around town. The fact it is warmer on a warmer day makes me think the
thermostats are full open even on the cooler day and that the increased work
done increases the temp and the warmer ambient increases the temp. This
worries me because 80F is considered “cool” here in Texas.

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 21:40:24 -0600
Subject: Re: XJS running temperatures

That’s correct. I am inclined to agree with you on the marginal
radiator capacity. It has to be tip-top to work well. I suspect,
however, that the marginality comes from the weak airflow. Jan
discusses removing the horns below the bumper as a means to increase
cooling performance - this strikes me as a smoking gun for this kind
of problem.

In my book on the XJ6 I comment on the fact that when racing my car (XJ6)
runs cooler (at least 10C) than when on the highway and I attribute that to
tha fact that I remove the front license plate when on the track.

I plan on trying that on the XJ-S since its front license plate also is in
the air flow to the lower radiator.

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 13 Nov 96 14:10:11
Subject: Re: XJS running temperatures

Julian Mullaney : 1) The thermostats are wide open all the time (after
warm up) and the
engine runs at different temperatures based on load, ambient temp. speed etc.

The conventional (wax bulb) car thermostat does not have a switching function;
it opens a crack at temperature x and opens fully at x+(band). The band may be
10 deg C. In conventional engines, you have a small flow of water through the
little hole with the jiggler until the thermostat opens - then a slug of really
hot water comes through and opens the thermostat wide, then because the
engine’s been cooled, cool enough water comes through to mostly shut the
thermostat and so on until you reach equilibrium with the thermostat partly
open. If you watch the temperature gauge in a conventional car, you’ll see it
kick up well above the normal temperature, then come back down, kick rather
less and then settle down after two-three pulsations. My elderly Rover 75 used
to open its thermostat every 5-6 minutes in Swedish winter driving and never
settled down.

In the Jag V12, there’s a bypass to the suction side of the pump that’s open
when the thermostat is closed; it closes fairly soon when the thermostat opens
but not immediately. This tends to warm the engine quicker and stabilise
quicker - my XJ12C comes briskly up to working temperature (3 km/2 miles) and
stays there. The exact point where it stays tends to be related to ambient
temperature but reacts very little to speed since I took all the junk out of
the lower air intake. On the V12, the purpose of the little hole in the
thermostat is said to be to pass air that’s been trapped in the heads, which
seems reasonable.

Does your XJS have the air dam, Julian? I suspect the XJS, like the XJ, falls
considerably short of aerodynamic perfection without the air dam.

-Jan

From: George Cohn gwcohn@azstarnet.com
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 21:28:15 -0800
Subject: Re: XJS running temperatures

Jeffrey, were not missing all this good stuff! It’s easy to lurk on
more than one list.

BTW, the digest version of the xke-lovers list is now available.

George Cohn
'70 E-type OTS
http://www.azstarnet.com/~gwcohn/xkelovers.htm

From: Ivan isk00@visi.net
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 22:28:10 -0500
Subject: Re: XJS running temperatures

Don’t forget two other things in your discussion of heat transfer from
the V-12 engines.

The aluminum blocks are very large and represent a significant
capability to reject heat to the atmosphere, primarily due to the very
large surface areas involved and to the better thermal conductivity of
the material, aluminum vs iron or steel. Airflow around the engine
helps to reduce the thermal load on the radiator. Additional cooling
effect is from the large oil capacity and system. More so than other
engines the oil cooled portion of the load is a higher fraction.

The second factor is the thermal element in the fan hub. This acts to
release the clutch when the temp is cold in order to decrease the
airflow through the radiator. When this element gets hotter the visous
clutch engages and allows the fan to spin faster.

Ivan, The meek shall inherit the Earth
The bold will head for the stars

From: RMac@aol.com
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 23:35:36 -0500
Subject: RE: buying first jag

gjones@blue.weeg.uiowa.edu (Gregory James Jones) commented:

it is my understanding that Ford will pay for a rental car during OD
service even if the car is purchased used.

IF you bought the car from them. If you got it privately, no dice. I have
complained loudly and bitterly about this to the dealer.

My OD noted on the 30K service that the rear axle seals were
begining to leak and should be replaced within the next six months.

If there’s anything I could say to sum up Jaguar maintenance, it would have
to be that Jags are very unforgiving of neglect…

Robert MacLeay (rmac@aol.com)
1990 XJ40 VdP Majestic

From: ffilangeri@juno.com (Frank A Filangeri)
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 00:03:49 EST
Subject: Re: rally event may 1996

Hi Stewart,

Glad you liked the story. A few years ago I met a fellow from NZ who was
on tour of the states with other Jaguar owners. He is a panel beater and
was manufacturing “new” Lister Jaguars from scratch at the time. He also
owned and raced I an E type. He also was importing and restoring cars
for sale in NZ. His name is Ray Larsen . It might be worth looking him
up as he may be able to provide a lead on a car for you. I have two
addresses for him the first I think is home and the second might be a
business.

440 Peninsular Road
Kewin Heights
No. 2 RD
Queenstown, NZ
Sheeps
75 Beach St.
Queenstown

I have a poorly written phone number. If it is not correct I apologize:
03-4427864

If you should get in touch,please say hello for me. I am one of the many
people he met at the West Point Brunch and I later sent him some
magazines from the states and issues of Hemmings. Ask him if the
aluminium bonnet for my E is ready yet !!

Good luck in your search!

Frank Filangeri
62 E OTS
On Tue, 12 Nov 1996 17:50:43 +1200 Stewart Martel otis@xtra.co.nz writes: Frank A Filangeri wrote:

The following account of the 1000 mile rally I participated in May
1996
with my 62 E is offered for the amusement of the list members. It
should
also appear in the Jaguar Journal with photos around January.

Frank
62E OTS

Great story, I carefully filed away you email on the mods made to your
E as it sounded
like they were all excellent modifications and your results certainly
back this up.

Now I just need to find a suitable Series One OTS to apply it to! (six
months and still
looking).

Regards

Stewart Martel
Auckland, NZ.

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #515

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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 13 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 516

Re: Comparing Jag power to chevy power
Re: XJS running temperatures
89 XJ40 Faulty Wiper - Solved!
RE: Good Times Virus - Hoax!
Re: XJ-S Book
Re: ABS problem-XJ40 -1988
Repost due to overwhleming lack of response - 1983 XJ6 S3 4.2 Cold start advice wanted.
Re: XJ-S Flooding is Not Fixed
Personalised Numbers & exclusivity
all jags from browns lane
Re: Life & death in Boulder, Colorado
Re: XJ-S Flooding is Not Fixed
Re: XJ-S Fusebox Cover
original Lucas wiring diagrams
Web site found
More HP…
Body man Bay Area…
[UK members] Top Gear on BBC
XJ6/40 Pre-owned or Used, that’s the question
1988 XJ40: Your ABS Problem
Membership

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 00:32:23 -0005
Subject: Re: Comparing Jag power to chevy power

Kirby:
What should be clear to all jag-lovers is that comparing the hp/ci of
a Chevy pushrod lump to an OHC Jaguar V-12 is totally inappropriate.
Try comparing the Jaguar engine to other engines of the same quality
and era.

Jeffrey Gram:

Kirby, in all repect your remark is not appropiate either. It may
not be fair to one of the two contestants to compare, but a
straight comparison just gives the BHP cer cubic volume and says
then more about the state of tune than the state of quality or era
or aura for that matter.

Entirely true. For my part, I would consider comparing only engines
tuned for street use, US emission regs, mass production. Note that
the Jaguar V-12 tune supposedly trades some top-end hp for better
low-end performance, and this kind of thing may also befuddle any
comparisons.

However, for all of these unaccountable variables, my feeling remains
the same. The Chevy small block is wonderfully optimized, with GM
doing a wonderful job of wringing every ounce of performance possible
out of an outdated design. The Jaguar V-12, on the other hand, is
barely able to outperform said pushrod lumps despite vastly superior
construction, indicating that it is FAR short of optimum tune even
for the retired-old-men market.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 13 Nov 96 15:22:07
Subject: Re: XJS running temperatures

Jim Isbell : …runs cooler (at least 10C) than when on the highway and I
attribute that to
tha fact that I remove the front license plate when on the track.

This agrees with my XJ12C experience

-Jan

From: “Quang Ngo” jaguar@gaianet.net
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 22:10:53 -0800
Subject: 89 XJ40 Faulty Wiper - Solved!

I would like to thank Randy W. and others. The wiper is now fixed.
The problem is the micro switch inside the motor is failing. I just
sprayed some WD40 into it and it works.

    _,'|             _.-''``-...___..--';)  
    /_ \'.      __..-' ,      ,--...--'''   Quang Ngo
   <\    .`--'''       `     /'             jaguar@gaianet.net
    `-';'               ;   ; ;

__…–‘’ …–…’ .;.’
(,…----‘’’ (,…–‘’

From: “Debbi Nelson” acmevfsl@Direct.CA
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 22:33:07 -0800
Subject: RE: Good Times Virus - Hoax!

Sorry, there’s no Jag content, but I felt an answer was due to a recent
post about a virus called: “Good Times.” Please note: there is no such
virus – it is a hoax. Unfortunately, it is a hoax that gets dragged out
every so often and just often enough that it doesn’t die down. I’ve
included this notice on this hoax – read on:

Don’t Spread that Hoax!

Recently, the internet community has endured a wave of e-mail hoaxes and
pranks, exploiting users unfamiliarity with how the internet, and computer
systems in general work. With the explosive growth of the internet and its
popularity, more and more new users are “getting online” and becoming
targets for pranksters. “Ancient” myths, like the cookie story, are just
waiting for a critical mass of people who have not been exposed, so that
they can go streaming across the net again. There is no technical solution
to this problem. Even when users become experienced enough to be able to
tell a silly message when they see one, anyone can get suckered sometimes.
It seems that all users of the internet will have to put up with a certain
amount of nonsense. Right now, these messages are only an annoyance, but it
is only a matter of time before someone’s` reputation, career or bank
account is ruined by some out of control e-mail message.

The Good Times “virus” deserves several pages all its own. Here are HTML
versions:

1.http://www.hr.doe.gov/goodtime.html 2.

And here are plain text.

1.ftp://usit.net/pub/lesjones/GoodTimes-HoaxFAQ.txt
2.ftp://usit.net/pub/lesjones/good-times-virus-hoax-faq.txt
3.ftp://users.aol.com/macfaq/good-times-virus-hoax-mini-faq.txt

Anyway, there is ABSOLUTELY NO WAY** for an e-mail message to infect your
computer with a virus just by reading it. Even the infamous internet worm
did not operate this way. This “mother of all Junk-mail virus” Has made it
into the photocopy room, and is going around again. Note however, that it
IS possible to download an executable program through e-mail, or through
your web browser. For heaven’s sake DON’T RUN A PROGRAM FROM A SOURCE YOU
DON’T HAVE VERY GOOD REASON TO TRUST! If your browser or e-mail reader does
not ask you permission before it runs a downloaded program, THROW THAT
BROWSER OR READER AWAY! It’s no more useful than a door to your house that
can’t keep anyone out.

There are enough myths, legends, and hoaxes on the net to fill a book, in
fact, one is growing, check out an alt.folklore.urban Frequently asked
Questions list. When it is available again.

Who I am. http://www.CREW.umich.edu/~chymes/

Sorry it’s so long, but it is a post necessary to every newsgroup.
Otherwise, good people panic for no reason.

Debbi Nelson
acmevfsl@direct.ca

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 09:21:41 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: XJ-S Book

Hi everyone,

Any of you have Paul Skilleter’s new (relatively) book on the XJ-S?..I’ve
been thinking about geting it and thought some of you might offer some
insight as to whether it is any good. Thanks,

I’ve bought it recently and I think it is quite interesting. Some remarks
seemed strange to me (like the GM400 being much less reliable than the
BW transmission). There is a chapter about potential problems, and no
reference to the distributor advance problem.

- Matthias

From: hastings@frodo.eucom.mil (Craig R. Hastings)
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 08:48:57 GMT
Subject: Re: ABS problem-XJ40 -1988

Rod,

Had something like this onmy 88 VDP and then had some work done that

included bleeding all the brake fluid and replaceing it with new. Then all
was fine. I had tried just bleeding the air from the lines but did’nt fix it
then tried draining it all and putting in new and all is fine now. I’m not
positive this will fix your’s but thought I’d pass it on.

Craig Hastings
61 OTS, Outside Bonnet Latch
88 VDP

From: Roly Alcock roly@redac.co.uk
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 08:52:21 +0000
Subject: Repost due to overwhleming lack of response - 1983 XJ6 S3 4.2 Cold start advice wanted.

Perhaps I am using the wrong soap, or have not got my charisma switched on
the only response I had from the first post was from Nick and that was tongue
in cheek!

I am reluctant to fiddle with the bits that are already working…

So now that traditional November weather has reached the UK, (frozen mist and
all that) I find that the XJ6 is not as willing to start as it was last winter.

It will start, but only after ~8 revoltions of the engine. Battery is new and
in good condition.

Things that have been fiddled with this year are:-

New headgasket ( head dismantled for crack testing )

New coil, apparently of the same type ( constant whatever it is )

When it does start it is evident that the the fuel enrichment is working
correctly.

My questions are:-

Should I be fiddling around in the air flow meter to check the fuel pump
contact ( Ref Michael Neal’s technical advice pages ) is there more than
one switch in the meter, if so which one should I be checking and how.

How can I really check that I am getting the correct ballasted voltage
during cranking. ( with the ignition switched on and engine not started,
I was unable to measure and significant voltage between either + or - and
ground, so I assume that other electrickery controls are at work here).

Does oil pressure have any bearing on fuel supply? I believe some cars cut
the fuel supply if the oil pressure fails, therefore there must be some
override to this at cranking time, and the number of revolutions turned before
the car willingly starts may have a bearing on this.

Finally, the factory loomed wiring to the coil bears no resemblence
to the schematic wiring diagram. My coil has three wires on the + side
and 2 on the - side. Any comments.

Is there anything else that I should consider?

P.S. I had a begging letter from Ghana today, apparently the student who wrote
it read my name in a Jaguar magazine. Anybody elese had one?
I am sure it is the people who do NOT own Jaguars are the ones who have some
cash left over for good causes.

Thanks

Roly

Roly Alcock, (Postmaster) Principal Systems Engineer
Redac Systems Ltd, Tel: 01684 294161 ext. 211
Zuken-Redac Group, Fax: 01684 298902
Green Lane,
Tewkesbury, E-mail: roly@redac.co.uk
Gloucestershire, GL20 8HE, UK Web: http://www.redac.co.uk

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 10:01:31 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: XJ-S Flooding is Not Fixed

That would seem to leave the coolant sensor, air temp sensor and throttle
pot as suspects, right? THe coolant sensor is recently new, the air temp
sensor gave funky readings (the measured resistance was way off where it
should had been at that temp, the air temp sensor thought the air was much
colder than it actually was) and will be replaced next, and the throttle
pot needs to be checked.

Don’t you also have an oxygen sensor ? One thing I would do in your case is
to put in fixed resistors for the various sensor direct at the ECU
connector. Maybe you have a cable problem. Of course you need to take
in account operation temperatures. Does the car run with a disconnected
throttle pot (I think it’s a switch actually) ?

Any other ideas out there?

Try to knock gently with the back of a screwdriver on all connectors and
sensor at see/hear if there is any change in running. Are all cylinders
flooded ? Stuck injector ?
You might also have a problem in the power amp for the injectors, you could
try to swap these too.

- Matthias

From: brownd@filon.ml.com (Dave Brown - London Dev X1818)
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 96 09:36:31 GMT
Subject: Personalised Numbers & exclusivity

Hi,

Nuno wrote:

But if you are spending more money
on the plate then some people do on there house, then there must
be something wrong with you or with the world.

Not wishing to start a long thread, but even though I wouldn’t dream of spending large
amounts of money on a personalised plate, it is just a form of exclusivity like any other
and no better or worse than that. You might just as well say that there is “something
wrong with you” for paying large sums of money for designer clothes, exclusive costume
jewellry, rare stamps or any of the other thousand things people spend money on to obtain
the exclusivity of owning that “special (mostly to them) something”.

One could even propose the same argument against buying a Jaguar!

I have thought about putting an “ageless” plate on my 88 Sovereign. If I could get a
“fun” plate such as “1 SOV” for a couple of hundred pounds I would probably do it. If it
was a couple of grand, then I wouldn’t, but plenty people would. If it was 10 or 20
grand, fewer people would, and so until it is sold to the highest bidder.

LIve and let live. If people have the money to spend it’s their choice what to spend it
on.

Regards,
David

David Brown,
brownd@ml.com
///_/_/_/_/////_///______
/_/_//_/_/_/_/_/____
/_/_/_/_/______/_/_/_/______
/_/_/_/_/_/_/________/_/_____
___/_/_/////_/_/_/_/_/______
/_/___/_/_//_/_/_/____
///_/_/_/____/////_///_________

From: lustre@iafrica.com
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 96 10:33:26 GMT
Subject: all jags from browns lane

Some MK2’s were assembled in South Africa using some local content. Mine is one
of them. There are trim details different to those from UK, ie picnic tables
were not fitted in the SA cars.

From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 12:12:33 -0800
Subject: Re: Life & death in Boulder, Colorado

Lawrence Buja

…That’s why I ride.

That was beautiful, Lawrence. Have you been to see a psychologist?

JK
Bard

From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 14:21:19 GMT
Subject: Re: XJ-S Flooding is Not Fixed

In message Pine.SUN.3.95.961110191214.20792E-100000@linet01 John Napoli writes:

That would seem to leave the coolant sensor, air temp sensor and throttle
pot as suspects, right? THe coolant sensor is recently new, the air temp
sensor gave funky readings (the measured resistance was way off where it
should had been at that temp, the air temp sensor thought the air was much
colder than it actually was) and will be replaced next

Wouldn’t be surprised if that’d fix it. I once forgot to put the cable
to the air temp sensor back on after changing air filters, so the ECU must
have thought that it was in the Arctic. Car wouldn’t even catch when
cranking. Once I put the cable back on, all was fine.

Regards,

Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk

From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 14:12:10 GMT
Subject: Re: XJ-S Fusebox Cover

In message 199611090608.AA15507@gcn.scri.fsu.edu “Kirbert” writes:

A question for the XJ-S owners: Does the fusebox for the headlights,
at the left side of the engine compartment, have a cover?

My car ('88 XJ-S V12 UK spec) has two boxes on the left valance, both
have lids. One semi-transparent white, one black.

Perhaps your earlier car doesn’t have those lids so that moisture can
reach the contacts more quickly and help corrode them earlier, thereby
achieving Lucas’s design goal of making you buy another one.

Regards,

Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk

From: Bob Wright rwright@netrover.com
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 07:23:36 -0500 (EST)
Subject: original Lucas wiring diagrams

I have a stack of Lucas wiring diagrams which must of been originaly sent to
garages. In them is a Jag Mk VII ‘M’ Type saloon, (1955),
Jag “XK 140” (1955),
Jag 2.4 litre saloon (1955-56),
Jag XK120 (1950-54),
Jag 3.5 (.4) litre Mk VII saloon (1954-54),
and Jag 2.5 and 3.5 litre Mk V saloon 1949

Are copies needed by anyone? bob wright…a new member with a major XK150
restoration facing him.

From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 07:36:02 -0500
Subject: Web site found

Hi all,
In case anyone doesn’t have this, I just opened
Les Hughes Jaguar Magazine web site and it’s
definately worth visiting at;

http://www.firehorse.com/jaguar

Lots of pic’s, great links.

Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
'62 E-Type, ots, flat floor.

    -------------------------------------------------------------
"Laugh? I thought I'd die!" 
		       A. Boleyn
    -------------------------------------------------------------

From: bill_clark@ccmail.rsco.com
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 96 04:47:10 PST
Subject: More HP…

 Attn: Mark McChesney...
 
 The phone number for the guy in Arizona who builds 'warm' Jag. engines 
 is (520) 474-9862

From: bill_clark@ccmail.rsco.com
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 96 04:51:14 PST
Subject: Body man Bay Area…

 Attn: Steve Marrio
 
 Try Images in Campbell - Dave Ferguson  (408) 371-1493
 
 Does alot of work for local Jag. club members, including one black 
 MkII which had 100, 100, 99.98 in JCNA concors.
 
 He's a decent bloke and wont bs you - use my name if you like.
 
 
 Bill Clark
 1965 MkII
 1973 E-type Roadster

From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 14:06:31 +0100 (MET)
Subject: [UK members] Top Gear on BBC

Viewing tip for UK members and others that can see the programme
Top Gear. This week they test the Tornado 450 from Paramount
Performance. The Tornado is a biturbo XJ6 putting out 450 HP.

Reference http://www.jagweb.com/paramount

Nick

From: “Luis R. Anaya” lanaya@notes.cc.bellcore.com
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 09:08:05 -0500
Subject: XJ6/40 Pre-owned or Used, that’s the question

Hi:

I’ve been lurking for a while reading and getting more information about
Jag’s. Unlike some poor guys, my fiancee and I have been thinking into
buying an XJ-6/40, used because I am not that rich and not in the near
future because I just bought a house that needs some remodeling. But,
after driving my small coupe for about 6 years and sufering from lack of space
when
I want to seat more than two people I’ve been thinking into getting something
bigger. (But not a Cadillac Boatus).

I fell in love with jags while in Jaguar of Puerto Rico had a car show
in one of the malls in the island, specially with the XJ-6/40
But before that show I considered having one something
a tad obscene because one person of questionable reputation used to drive
one in my hometown. Nevertherless I like the way the car looks and some
people have told me that they can be good cars to own. However the ghost
of Jag-Lemons looms on the horizon and although I can be handy with
a wrench, I’m no mechanic and my experiences have been with old (70’s)
Chevy engines in my older '74 Chevy Nova (which was unmercifully sold by
my mom). I rather do not venture myself in screwing up royally having to pay
the triple of what it was before I wanted to play.

So how to buy one?

Buy it used from an individual? In Nick’s page states that the golden
rule to buy a jag is to have a jag mechanic to check it out. I do not know how
to get an independent jaguar mechanic where I live. So probably I might end up
in a dealer asking a mechanic to check a car while the dealer can offer me a
pre-
owned jag (glorified used car) for maybe a thousdands more. The up side
is that it gives you 4 years of warranty (probably drivetrain only, additional
warranty up for sale) which gives you some piece of mind. Also lemon law in
New Jersey makes the seller to buy the car back if it is a real lemon, however
God knows how much agravation I’ll have. Buying it from an individual it would
be another alternative but I need the mechanic wich I do not know where to find
them. Well, not true, there are some ads of people that checks autos for a
fee, but
most of them are not certified Jaguar mechanics so it goes back to the dealer
thing.

Well, another alternative would be to buy an old one, rip the engine off and
put a chevy one. I know that this might make some people on the list to
barf and puke their guts out in disgust. But on the long run it could be
cheaper
to maintain although the upfront costs could be large. any thoughts on this?

Probably any of you can see my predicament on what kind to buy. Although the
decision mine at the end, I would like some people with experience to give me
some fatherly advise.

BTW My fiancee wants an VDP BRG XJ/40. When they do not want a car, they just
do not want them. When they want them, they want the most expensive one.
Go figure…

Lawrence:

I also want to start riding my bike. But it is too cold so I’m walking to
work. I’m
waiting until spring so I can get in bike-shape again.

Regards,

Luis Anaya
lanaya@notes.cc.bellcore.com

From: E2plus2@aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 09:11:18 -0500
Subject: 1988 XJ40: Your ABS Problem

Dear Rod:
My 88 XJ40 exhibited the same/similar problems several years ago at about 50K
miles. In addition to activating at low MPH, I also received the ABS failure
warning.

Asked the local Jaguar Shop to evaluate but not fix until I knew what the $$
damages were. The verdict was they wanted tons of money to replace the
sensors. Being mechanically “competent” and knowing that I could buy the
sensors for much less at Special Interest Car Parts (SICP), I removed the
sensors and found them to have rust particles and grease on them. Cleaned
them off and reinstalled and have had no problems with that system in the
last 23K miles. One Note: The fasteners on the rear sensors broke off in the
hubs. Used two-part epoxy to put them back.

Ok, Ok, lets hear it from the professional Jaguar wrench twirlers!!!

Regards.

Rex Henderson (e2plus2@aol.com)
94 XJS, 88 XJ40, 87 XJ6, 72 E-Type (Yes, I know, I’m a glutton for
punishment)

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 09:31:01 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Membership

To whom it may concern:

I’m a 23 year old industrial electrician from Windsor, Ontario, Canada. I
have an 85

Come on Michael, relax, we are all friends here. Welcome to the list. You
have indeed found the right place to hang out.

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #516

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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 13 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 517

Re: On bicycles - and Jag content!
Recall Problem
German Jag-lovers
MKII: Quentin Wilson’s MKII TV show (UK)
Re: XJS running temperatures
Re: Comparing Jag power to chevy power
Personalised Numbers & exclusivity
Personalised Numbers & exclusivity
FW: XJS running temperatures
Need Articles
bicycling Jag-lovers
Re: XJ-S Book
XJ-S GM400 fluid change and dropped filter
free magazines
For Sale - 1939 Saloon

From: ifinlay@vossnet.co.uk (Ian Finlay)
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 15:55:02 GMT
Subject: Re: On bicycles - and Jag content!

Drive a MKII with the high-ratio steering box and watch those muscles
grow! Then run out of gas every now and again and push the bloody thing.

Ian

On Nov 12, 1996 14:40:20, ‘Andrew David Metz ametz@umich.edu’ wrote:

Lawrence-
As an avid mountain biker and a Triumph enthusiast, I must say that I
really enjoyed your article. Unfortunately, many people seem to forget
the importance of regular exercise, and as a result, shorten their time
here on earth. Along the same line of reasoning, if your time on earth is

shortened, then your time to enjoy the wonders of the internal combustion
engine is shortened. Bummer.
You gotta remember…If you leave your lovely vintage car without exercise

for a while, then it will kick off. But if you go without exercise for a
while, then YOU might kick off. I guess my point is this: Treat your body

as good as you treat your car.
  	-Andrew Metz 

Drive a Triumph- Small but powerful cars for small but powerful people…

On Tue, 12 Nov 1996, Lawrence Buja wrote:

Nice post, John. Your ending quote got me thinking, though.
Please forgive me for straying a bit off the topic of this group.

{“If its got wheels I love it” (except bicycles. If God had wanted us
to
{ride bicycles he wouldn’t have invented internal combustion.)

Once upon a time I had a good friend named Rick. Rick was a great guy,
very smart, 40 years old and in the prime of his life. But, Rick ate
alot of bad food and he didn’t ever exercise. One day Rick had a heart
attack. Then he had a really bad stroke. He lingered horribly for a
year, terribly crippled and all stroked out, before his poor heart
finally gave out entirely and he passed on beyond the pain. We were all

very very sad and missed Rick alot. It made me think alot about life,
death, what living really is and how the lights could go out tomorrow.
The experience drives me to make sure that I reserve lots of time for my

wife and kids, with an emphasis on play, fun and adventure. And I leave

time for myself too, doing the various things which keep me fulfilled.

I now have Rick’s cool job. I sit in Rick’s comfortable chair, at
Rick’s big desk, in Rick’s nice corner office, in this glorious high
tech laboratory in the middle of a pristine mountain park, on the top of

a tall mesa overlooking Boulder, Colorado. My workstation is positioned

such that I’m always looking out my huge floor-to-ceiling picture window

to the northwest, along the delicate, graceful boundary where the high
plains sweep up to become the front range of the Rocky Mountains. We
keep a pair of binocs on the shelf to watch the pretty white sailplanes
wheeling overhead in search of thermals, the rock-climbers scaling the
flat-iron rock formations just to the west or the wave-clouds stacking
up over the mountains. In the morning I see wisps of valley fogs and
coyote families yapping and playing in the tree-line, the afternoon
brings a steady parade of mule deer and joggers past my window, every
evening I watch the red back-illumination of the low foothills showing
them to really be crescent-shaped dunes similar to wind-formed desert
sand dunes before being treated to the purple shadows of the tall
mountains pushing out across the prairie, up into the sky and back
across the heavens. Far below, the nightly light-show of the city’s
power-grid begins to twinkle and shine. This is a great place to work
(if you can call it that) in an unbelievably beautiful setting. Rare is

the day when I don’t find myself thinking how lucky I am to be here.

The few days when I drive my Jaguar to work, Rick’s ghost always sits
quietly and comfortably in the plush passenger seat next to me. I love
to crank the stereo and push that Jaguar hard, feeling rather than
hearing the wonderful note of the powerful 4.2L Jaguar engine surging up

the steep mountain road, all wrapped in curved steel, warm leather and
rich walnut, with the race suspension soaking up the curves and twists.
Rick’s ghost really likes it too.

Most of the time, though, I leave my pretty Jaguar parked at home and I
ride my road bike to work. Every morning, as I make the long, cold
climb up the mountain through the thin, high-altitude air, I’m usually
alone but not alone. Rick’s ghost usually tags along, riding there
right beside me. He likes it best when I just spin up the hill, slow
and steady.

But, I’ve found that if I get up out of the saddle and push it hard,
I can drop that pale ghost. If I keep on working harder, I can pull
away, temporarily leaving him and his buddy, Death, far, far behind me.

That’s why I ride.

/\ Lawrence Buja http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern
_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research

  \_________________________Boulder,_Colorado___80307-3000__________

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 09:56:26 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Recall Problem

I am having a problem with the Cruise Control on my XJ-S. There is a recall
on it but the local dealer syss the recall has been preformed on my car (by
the PO perhaps). But the fault still exists. The dealer says I have to
contact Jaguar Cars to get them to reopen the Recall for my car.

It seems strange to me that the dealer cannot negotiate that on my behalf,
but, be that as it may, does anyone have an 800 number for the people I have
to reach to get this done?

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: JagLinks@aol.com
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 11:03:41 -0500
Subject: German Jag-lovers

From: baard@telesoft.no (Baard Th Hesvik)
To: JagLinks@aol.com

Gruess Gott Stephan,

I am interested in joining your German list. How do I subscribe?

Tschuess,
Bard

______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no

Baard:

Sorry - there is no German mailing-list. And I think the jag-lovers
(and / or the xke-lovers) lists do VERY well, as far as I can see
after being with boths lists for just two weeks time.

I have no technical background (devices) for setting up a mailing-list by
myself.
And - to my regret - definitely no time to manage anything more beside my job
as Software Product Manager for Klett Publishing.

Maybe there will be more “German language” Jag activities in the future.
The “JAG” (“Jaguar Association Germany”) seems to be interested in
participation; by chance I talked to them just today.
We’ll see what we can do.

Hope you like my web site(s) for a start!

Stephan Perthes< >E-Type 2+2 SI 1966< >JagLinks@aol.com<

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Perthes/jaglinks.htm<

“Hope I die before I get old” (C) 1967 Pete Townshend/The Who<

From: ifinlay@vossnet.co.uk (Ian Finlay)
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 16:07:38 GMT
Subject: MKII: Quentin Wilson’s MKII TV show (UK)

Anyone catch Quentin’s “review” of the MKII? I taped it, and think
that while he’s good on T.V., and usually fair on his test cars, he’s
got a few things wrong with the MKII.

With new brakes, they stop as well as (if not better than) lots
of modern cars.
They’re quite capable of staying with a 120MPH Police car
in a straight line
They weren’t all that badly built - check out a late '50s Chrysler!

If anyone wants I might sample some clips for Nick to put on the web
site (if that’s OK Nick …)

Ian
'60 MKII 3.8
'57 Plymouth
'56 F100 truck
'64 Pontiac convertible
'56 Ford Consul (for sale)
No space
No money

From: scstewart@cmsd.bc.ca (Scott Stewart)
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 08:26:48 -0800
Subject: Re: XJS running temperatures

From:scstewart@cmsd.bc.ca

If you want to check the effectiveness of your thermostats, suspend them in
water, without touching the bottom of the pan, until boiling. Observation
of degree of closing and opening should be apparent

scott

: From: Juliansean@aol.com To: jag-lovers@sn.no
: Subject: XJS temps Date:Tues, Nov 12, 1996 3:14 PM
:
: > However, on my car there are times when it runs a little cooler
: > than ‘normal’. Maybe a nice downhill run on a cool day, the trip
: > being too short to warm up completely. My point was that whenever
: > your car can see ‘normal’ temp, it is ‘normal’. No higher. So your
: > cooling system is doing its job.
:
: I’m still trying to understand this. Mostly because I’m probably a bit
: over-sensitive to overheating in my newly aquired XJS. My car will run
: all day long at low speeds at a lower temperature on the guage. At
: high speeds the temp. is higher. The only conclusions I can make are:
:
: 1) The thermostats are wide open all the time (after warm up) and the
: engine runs at different temperatures based on load, ambient temp. speed
etc.

If it’s open all the time and isn’t stuck open and working correctly the
engine
is soon going to overheat. That would mean that the water returing to the
engine from the radiator is at a temp higher than the thermostats rating.
Not good. For any engine. Bad.

: 2) The thermostats are controlling the upper temperature limit but NOT
the
: lower limit. This sounds like a fault in the operation of the
thermostats.
: In this case if you were driving slowly in extreme winter cold the car
could
: run at a temperature that is way too cold.
: Julian Mullaney

If the water in the engine is below the thermostats rating then it’s
closed.
If it’s higher then it’s open (hopefully)

A thermostat rated at 190 degrees Fahrenheit will open and close at plus
or minus 3 degrees of it’s stated rating. As with all mechanical things it
has “tolerances”. Some of which we find intolerable

It’s pretty simple. The more you press the throttle the more heat the
engine
makes. The cooling system can keep the engine from overheating but can’t
keep the engine at exactly the same temp all the time. It can only keep
it
in a certain range. The temp may be slightly lower at lower engine RPM’s
and slightly higher at higher engine RPM’s, but will fall within an
acceptable
range. The thermostat is closed till it reaches it’s particular rating then
it
opens. The rating is the point at which it comes off it’s seat, lets say
190
degrees Fahrenheit. The pump then pushes water through the engine and
hot water is pushed into the radiator as cooler water is pulled into the
engine. You can see that at any outside temp this process operates
with little regard for ambient temp. Of course if the ambient temp is too
high to allow the water to cool sufficiently while it’s still in the
radiator
the engine is going to overheat. Maybe somewhere in Nevada this could
be a problem. On the other end if the temp is very low then the engine
will take longer to reach operating temperature.

Tim Blystone
pcsolutions@mindspring.com
TLBlystone@aol.com

“Newspaper taxis arrive at the shore, waiting to take you away,
climb in the back with your head in the clouds, and you’re gone”
Lennon & McCartney 1967

Scott Stewart
4013 Thomas St.
Terrace, B.C. V8G 5N3
scstewar@cln.etc.bc.ca

From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 09:17:26 MDT
Subject: Re: Comparing Jag power to chevy power

Ok, I’ve tried to keep out of this one but I have to put in my two
cents since I have had experience with both of these motors.

Kirby et al wrote:

- comparing Jaguar V12 and Chebby V8’s hp/cu inch. -

Entirely true. For my part, I would consider comparing only engines
tuned for street use, US emission regs, mass production. Note that
the Jaguar V-12 tune supposedly trades some top-end hp for better
low-end performance, and this kind of thing may also befuddle any
comparisons.

However, for all of these unaccountable variables, my feeling remains
the same. The Chevy small block is wonderfully optimized, with GM
doing a wonderful job of wringing every ounce of performance possible
out of an outdated design. The Jaguar V-12, on the other hand, is
barely able to outperform said pushrod lumps despite vastly superior
construction, indicating that it is FAR short of optimum tune even
for the retired-old-men market.

I agree with your basic point Kirby, that comparing the hp/cu. in
efficiency of the motor tells only a part of the story. The Chebby
small block is an OK motor that makes good HP - but not in detuned
form. the 1 hp/cu in., even though factory in some cases, can by no
means be considered “detuned”. The cams, compression, and heads used
to get such horsepower levels are, even in factory form, fairly
“hot”. A naturally aspirated chebby small block can expect to get 1
hp/cu inch in a fairly high state of tune, and up to 1.5-1.75 hp/cu.
inch in extreme tune. The chebby engines at the 1 hp/cu in level
could be considered to be “reliable” by most people. But once you
get to the 1.5-1.75 hp/cu. inch, you have to be revving these motors
to 7000-8000 RPM. These motors are NOT reliable in the agricultural
sense of the word. The primary failure points ? No surprise -
valvetrain (oh those pushrods and rocker arms!) and crankshafts.
They aren’t made to take those high RPM’s. Even the ricky racer
stuff is only good for one race season or so. At one point in my
life, I ate and slept small block HP for the drag strip and these
motors often never lasted more than one race season !

The Jaguar V12, on the other hand, is VERY detuned in its 300 hp
form. It has all of the elements to make 500-800 HP reliably since
the valve train is much more comfortable at high RPMs (OHC motors are
designed for this !) and its inherent balance is much easier on the
reciprocating pieces. Any fool can make a motor make 1-2 HP/cu. inch

- the trick is to do it reliably . To get to these levels, high RPMs
  are invariably involved and the struggle is to keep things together
  while shipping along. Jaguar’s racing experience bears out the
  ability of these motors to be reliable (despite the general public’s
  impression of Jaguar “quality”). Jim Isbell’s experience of his XJ6
- racing it with over 100,000 miles - is also a good testament to the
  basic relaibility of the motor in severe and abusive environements.
  Would I take my small block with 120,000 miles out to the quarter
  mile and rev it out to 6000 RPM ? Hell no, I’d break the pushrods.

Kind Regards,

Jim Cantrell

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 10:32:30 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Personalised Numbers & exclusivity

I purchased aout 15 cars from england in the 70s and imported them into the
US. Several had very interesting license plates so I am the last owner of
the cars which are now under US registration. I have saved the plates in
some cases. Though I no longer own the cars, I am still the last registered
owner as far as English records go and the cars are all under US registry
and do not have those plates… So are these plates saleable?

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 10:32:30 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Personalised Numbers & exclusivity

I purchased aout 15 cars from england in the 70s and imported them into the
US. Several had very interesting license plates so I am the last owner of
the cars which are now under US registration. I have saved the plates in
some cases. Though I no longer own the cars, I am still the last registered
owner as far as English records go and the cars are all under US registry
and do not have those plates… So are these plates saleable?

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: Aaron Burnett aaron.burnett@attws.com
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 09:07:05 -0800
Subject: FW: XJS running temperatures

Just an additional note on this topic:

For the first few months of ownership, my '85 XJ-S ran too hot on the
highway (sometimes halfway between N and H). I already
had repaired my seized centrifugal advance (thanks Kirby), so I set
about flushing the cooling system and changing the
thermostats. I disassembled the thermostat housing on both sides and,
to my horror, found the the last mechanic to work on the
car had left the right-hand thermostat out (but one of the many
indications of his gross incompetence!). I also cleaned the load
of leaves and grass from the front of the radiator

With the new thermostats installed and fresh, clean coolant supplied, my
engine no is as cool as can be – which brings me to
the same question posited throughout this thread:

My engine now typically runs on the highway with the needle halfway
between C and N. Around town or in stop-and-go traffic, it
sometimes will rise to N. Is this too cool? If so, what could be the
cause?

All help appreciated.

Aaron
'85 XJ-S

From: Jan Wikstroem[SMTP:Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au]
Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 1996 6:10 AM
To: jag-lovers
Subject: Re: XJS running temperatures

Julian Mullaney : 1) The thermostats are wide open all the time
(after
warm up) and the
engine runs at different temperatures based on load, ambient temp. speed etc.

From: densmith@islandnet.com (Dennis Smith)
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 96 09:28 PST
Subject: Need Articles

Hi Bill and Lori,

BL>I’m wondering if anyone would happen to have a WEB or other source, for
BL>obtaining past road and performence tests and articles on 1985 Jaguar
BL>XJ6’s. Also, any reviews at production time would be handy. Thanks!

Classic Motor Books (1-800-826-6600) has a series of books containing
reprints of articles from “Road and Track” covering road tests, new
model reports and comparison tests. The book that applies to your Jag
is ‘Jaguar 1983-89’ Catalogue # 114121B $16.95. The other books in this
series cover the years 1950 to 1982.

Dennis Smith
1980 XJ6 Series III

� OLX 2.2 � Jaguar - The World’s most elegant car

From: “S. Dickson” sdickson@blue.weeg.uiowa.edu
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 11:28:51 -0600 (CST)
Subject: bicycling Jag-lovers

It should be no surprise that there are so many bicycle loving
Jag-lovers. Just look at who developed the automobile and airplane.
The Wright brothers, Curtis brothers, Duesenberg brothers to name a
few. They were all at one time involved in bicycle design, repair, or
racing. There seems to be a natural crossover interest in the workings
of fine machines. I personally find it difficult to balance my time
between cycling and tinkering with and driving the Jag. Over the past
14 years, my average annual cycling mileage is 23,000 miles. The
problem is that both activities tail off when winter fires up. Guess
that’s a good time to tinker in a heated garage.

Scott Dickson

65 E-Type (OTS)
64 Austin Healey 3000 (BJ7)

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 13:16:17 -0005
Subject: Re: XJ-S Book

Matthias (talking about Skilleter’s book):

Some remarks seemed strange to me (like the GM400 being much less
reliable than the BW transmission).

Interesting. While I was in New Zealand, a Jaguar club member there
approached me to ask what the supposed problem was with the BW tranny
since he owned one and had never had any trouble with it! His car
must be almost 20 years old, so that’s pretty impressive to me. I couldn’t
help him, since I have received NO input from owners on problems with
this tranny or what to do about it. Perhaps we need to poll our
members – starting with finding out exactly how many V-12 owners
have the BW tranny here?

By the way, did the MkIII E-type come with the same BW tranny? Of
course, even if it did the experience may not be the same – the
stresses on a transmission are as much a function of the weight of
the car as the power of the engine, and the E-type was supposedly a
lot lighter than the XJ.

We, of course, will also need to poll the XJ12 owners. Wikstroem,
do your cars have BW trannies?

There is a chapter about potential problems, and no
reference to the distributor advance problem.

Hmmm. This would seem a glaring omission.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: Aaron Burnett aaron.burnett@attws.com
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 10:22:53 -0800
Subject: XJ-S GM400 fluid change and dropped filter

This past weekend I drained the Dexron II transmission fluid from the
GM400 in my '85 XJ-S and replaced it with Type F (per Kirby’s good
advice). I also took this opportunity to check and replace the
transmission filter which (again per Kirby’s book) had “dropped”. This
is what I encountered:

The filter is secured to the valve body at two points

1)  a retaining bolt at center of the filter, about 1/3 of the way from

the rear
2) a three inch plastic feeder tube that is inserted into a rubber
grommet at the top/front of the filter on one end and the valve body on
the other.

This arrangement was doomed to failure (on my car anyway) for two
reasons.

As mentioned above, the upper end of the feeder tube is inserted into
metal sleeve in the valve body. However, the only thing holding this
tube in place is the friction of a single O-ring – for a vertical
installation! The O-ring in my car had of course become brittle and
shrunken, providing almost no tension, and the tube had fallen away from
the valve body causing cavitation or lack of fluid supplied to the
transmission (whining in first and slipping in reverse when cold).
Most important – On my car, the retaining bolt used did not have
threads for the first 3/8" after the head. In others words (because I’m
not doing a very good job of describing this), the bolt could not be
turned all the way into the body of the transmission – the head was
left 3/8" from flush. As the metal flange around the mounting hole on
the filter is only about 1/16" thick, this meant that, even when the
bolt was firmly installed, the filter could move 5/16" up and down. I
assume that the filter bounced around on this mounting bolt and, when
the O-ring securing the front end of the filter began to wear, this
bouncing knocked the feeder tube from its hole.

As a solution, I installed the new filter using the same bolt but
provided a spacer backing of one metal washer flanked by two rubber
ones. These filled the original slack space between the filter and
valve body and created a solid mounting point. Also, because only
rubber washers contact the metal filter housing, I am hoping that the
housing will not wear as it would had I created metal-on-metal contact.
This arrangement should not allow the filter to flop around on its
mount, therefore the tension of the new O-ring on the feeder tube should
be sufficient to keep it in place.

I re-installed the pan with a new gasket and filled the transmission
with Type F fluid. The change to Type-F fluid has provided firmer and
more certain shifts which I prefer and, according to Kirby, decrease
transmission wear by decreasing slippage during shifting.

I don’t know if the situation I encountered is typical or simply another
bonus provided by the incompetent mechanic used by the PO (you know, the
one who forgot to install one of the thermostats). Anyway, hope the
information helps someone.

Aaron
'85 XJ-S

P.S. Although they are reputed to be of dubious quality and longevity,
the transmission mount on my car, which must be removed to work on the
tranny, was in excellent condition. I simply had to clean and
re-assemble.

From: COOPER ROBIN D COOPER_ROBIN_D@Lilly.com
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 18:55:54 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: free magazines

while at home with flu, i have started a major clean up of my den. one thing
that i am going to donate to a good home is a set of 1983-1990 e-jag magazines.
these will cost quite a bit to ship, if however anyone would like to stop by
and load them up i will even help with the loading. i live in indianapolis.
robin

From: “Donald R. Farr” d.farr@phx.cox.com
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 13:00:35 -0700
Subject: For Sale - 1939 Saloon

Hi Jag lovers, drivers and fans…

Last week I mentioned that I’d stumbled across someone in Scottsdale,
Arizona that was selling a 39 Jaguar Saloon. I offered to put up a
page to show it for him, and well folks, he has now asked me to revise
the price.

I went to a Jaguar car show this past Saturday, and saw the car
personally, and it is really quite a car. Needs some restoration, but
would be georgous when complete.

If you want to see it a picture and see find the seller…

http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/39jag.htm

Donald R. Farr
Paradise Valley, AZ 85253
(602) 948-7499 - fax
91 Sovereign
d.farr@phx.cox.com - e-mail
http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/dfarr.htm - Don’s Homepage
http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/jetta1.htm - Jetta Notebook Computers
http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/march10.htm - Wireless products
http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/ncs1.htm - National Consulting Services

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #517

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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 14 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 518

Re: XJ-S Book
bicycling Jag-lovers
Veneer refinishing
XJ-S Purging air from heater core
XJ6 - SIII- Steering noise - Thanks all
XJ6 Overheating
Re: bicycling Jaguar lovers
Power steering
Re: XJ-S GM400 fluid change and dropped filter
Re: bicycling Jag-lovers
Bicycles & Boulder
Re: XJS running temperatures
Re: XJS running temperatures
Re: XJ-S Flooding is Not Fixed
Re: XJ-S Flooding is Not Fixed
Re: bicycling Jag-lovers
Re: Veneer refinishing
Re: In Need of a Manual…
god help my starter?
Re: XJ-S GM400 fluid change and dropped filter

From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 13:49:59 MDT
Subject: Re: XJ-S Book

Kirby wrote:

We, of course, will also need to poll the XJ12 owners. Wikstroem,
do your cars have BW trannies?

I have two BW trannies - one in an XJ12C and another in a XJ6C. Both
seem to be reliable pieces so far but are not seeing a lot of miles at
the moment. They did sit, however, for the last 10 years and nothing
seems to have gone bad. The latter observance is remarkable to me
since they are no doubt full of rubber O-rings and we all know about
Jag OE rubber. I did, however, sacrafice a chicken to the gods of
BW to assure that the transmissions were ok after ten years of
storage.

Kind Regards,

Jim Cantrell

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 15:34:40 -0600 (CST)
Subject: bicycling Jag-lovers

I happen to be a bicycling hater.

In our town we have a group of people who, “In order to draw attention to
ourselves” monthly stage a traffic slowdown by driving 100 or so bicycles
through rush hour trafic with police escort.

I wouold like to know how they get permission to run red lights and get
piloce escort to help them break the law.

They only succeed it infuriating the motoring public and gain no sympathy.

I realise that in some countries the bicycle is viable transportation. In
this country it is NOT. Most people commute 30 miles or more and not
withstanding weather, there is still the 50 year old grandmother who could
not stand the gaff. True, a few people live close enough to their jobs,
and a few others are young enough to take advantage of it as transportation,
but in general it is a TOY and belongs off the highways.

Any attempt to claim it is transportation and not a toy allows the argument
that a skate board is transportation. They should be outlawed from any
motorway where they cannot maintain the posted speed limit. They should be
outlawed at night without lights. The riders should all be shot.

My E-Type intake is just the right size to swallow one of those skinny
bicyclists buts.

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: John Setters john_setters@eagle.co.nz
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 11:25:17 +1300
Subject: Veneer refinishing

We have heard a lot about this subject but I’m still not convinced.
One day we will all be faced with this problem.
How was/is the woodwork finished by the factory?
Surely that is what we need to know to be able to replicate the
excellent results that Jaguar achieves on the woodwork when new.
I for one am not interested in a suspect alternative; if it’s good
enough for Jaguar it’s good enough for me.
Do we know or can we find out the exact product and application
method used by Jaguar ?
Regards
JKS-XJS

John Setters
Desktop Mapping Consultant
Eagle Technology Group Ltd
110 Symonds Street
Auckland
New Zealand
Ph +64 +09 300 3400 Fax +64 +09 300 3420
Email john_setters@eagle.co.nz
http://www.eagle.co.nz

From: “Richard.Mansell” Richard.Mansell@psemail.ps.net
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 22:33:00 +0000
Subject: XJ-S Purging air from heater core

 Does anyone know a surefire method of getting air out of the heater 
 core or should it come out by itself.
 
 I recently changed one of the thermostats on my '89 5.3 and obviously 
 lost a bit of water in the process. I bled the system and topped up.
 
 As winter drew closer I noticed that the heater was not actually 
 working at all. I disconnected the hose from the engine to the heater 
 control valve and the hose coming out of the other side of the 
 bulkhead and ran water through it from a hose pipe. Water ran through 
 with no appreciable restriction in flow but how ever hard you try you 
 always lose a bit of water putting the hoses back on.
 
 Now the heater is working but it is not very effective at all. The PO 
 did mention that the heater was not very good but I have not needed it 
 until now as I bought the car during the summer.
 
 Any ideas or will we be huddling around the cigar lighter this winter?
 
 Richard
 Richard.mansell@ps.net

From: “John Littler” auibmdak@ibmmail.com
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 16:28:08 EST
Subject: XJ6 - SIII- Steering noise - Thanks all

Thanks everyone for their replies - the problem was indeed low power
steering fluid - at the slow leak rate I can go a couple of weeks before
I fix it - which means I can leave it until after my exams. Phew !!
Thanks again
John

Level 1, 29-57 Christie St.
St Leonards NSW 2065
Ph: +61-2-9937-8063 Fax: +61-2-9937-8100
Mobile +61-419-617-619

From: Matthew Waite MWaite@tasman.com.au
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 09:45:26 +1100
Subject: XJ6 Overheating

On my Series 1 XJ the temperature gauge rises to the L of normal on a hot day (35 C) and higher in traffic but falls away when on the move. Is this normal, it doesnt feel like it is overheating but it allarming to look at. A side point - all 6 cylinder XJ owners remember to check the bottom rad hose. If this comes unattached, the only indications are a tappety noise or pinking from the engine. This happened yesterday. The hose came undone, lost all of the water on the road but the engine was not (hopefully) terminally damaged. After letting cool down and refilling with water no sign of head gasket trouble; no bubbles in water, over pressured cool system, water in oil, mayo in the filler cap, steam out the back. The car runs smoother now and better than before. BTW oil pressure is 70 psi on the move and 40 psi at idle, when hot drops to 30-35. Matt Waite Mwaite@tasman.com.au From: cal callahan calc@qualcomm.com Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 14:49:02 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: bicycling Jaguar lovers Jim, Submitted as one person’s mild rebuttal, not as a flame. You’re entitled to your opinion, even if it is wrong. I happen to be a bicycling hater. Then your subject is misleading. In our town we have a group of people who, “In order to draw attention to ourselves” monthly stage a traffic slowdown by driving 100 or so bicycles through rush hour trafic with police escort. I can certainly see where that sort of behavior would prompt your bile. Most people commute 30 miles or more A good ride! a few others are young enough to take advantage of it as transportation I would certainly not classified myself as young (I won’t see 50 again), but I know plenty of bicycle riders my age and over who use them for around-town transportation and long trips as well. but in general it is a TOY and belongs off the highways. They should be outlawed from any motorway where they cannot maintain the posted speed limit. No, provisions should be made for their safe use. They should be outlawed at night without lights. Agree. The riders should all be shot. Rather harsh, don’t you think? I’ll bet there are Chevy owners who feel the same way about Jaguar owners. My E-Type intake is just the right size to swallow one of those skinny bicyclists buts. The operative word here being “skinny” (aIthough l would have used “trim” or “lean”). Do I detect a shade of envy in your comment? Cal (a bicycling Jaguar lover) From: “John Littler” auibmdak@ibmmail.com Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 16:44:52 EST Subject: Power steering Thanks Jim, no I hadn’t been topping it up and as I found last night when I checked there wasn’t much fluid left either. Question: I read your book again and I’ll give the sealconditioner a go. The leaking seal seems to match with what you’ve got listing there with regards to the power steering pump failure mode, do you think I’ll really need to replace the entire rack or just the pump ? The noise went away when I fed it some more fluid (if that makes any difference). Thanks for your help, John Level 1, 29-57 Christie St. St Leonards NSW 2065 Ph: +61-2-9937-8063 Fax: +61-2-9937-8100 Mobile +61-419-617-619 *** Forwarding note from I1366939–IBMMAIL 12/11/96 11:47 *** Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 10:26:36 -0600 (CST) To: “John Littler” auibmdak@ibmmail.com From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell) Subject: Power steering The noise is caused by air in the system. Have you been topping it up as it leaked? If not then it is deffinately air. You needto replace the steering rack ($350 to $400) plus labor. You could start with a power steering seal conditioner ($2), but it probably wont work. JIM I. “Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.” Gen. Emiliano Zapata 1879-1919 End of mail text Additional SMTP headers from original mail item follow: Received: from smtp.utexas.edu by ibmmail.COM (IBM VM SMTP V2R3) with TCP; Tue, 12 Nov 96 11:26:47 EST Received: (qmail-queue invoked by uid 0); 12 Nov 1996 16:26:47 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO mail.utexas.edu) (128.83.126.1) by smtp.utexas.edu with SMTP; 12 Nov 1996 16:26:47 -0000 Received: from slip-d-2.ots.utexas.edu (slip-d-2.ots.utexas.edu Y128.83.113.114 ?) by mail.utexas.edu (8.8.2/8.6.6) with SMTP id KAA25745 for <auibmdak@ibmmail .com>; Tue, 12 Nov 1996 10:26:36 -0600 (CST) Message-Id: 199611121626.KAA25745@mail.utexas.edu X-Sender: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Version 1.4.3 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=“us-ascii” From: “Richard.Mansell” Richard.Mansell@psemail.ps.net Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 23:16:00 +0000 Subject: Re: XJ-S GM400 fluid change and dropped filter =_0_MIME_Boundary_3175.328a579a.imgxpd30.eurh021.eur.ps.net Aaron wrote:-

Most important -- On my car, the retaining bolt used did not have 
threads for the first 3/8" after the head. In others words (because I’m
not doing a very good job of describing this), the bolt could not be
turned all the way into the body of the transmission – the head was
left 3/8" from flush.
I don’t know if the situation I encountered is typical or simply another
bonus provided by the incompetent mechanic used by the PO (you know, the
one who forgot to install one of the thermostats). Anyway, hope the
information helps someone.

The bolt is the same on mine, I wonder why it is like it is?

P.S. Although they are reputed to be of dubious quality and longevity,
the transmission mount on my car, which must be removed to work on the
tranny, was in excellent condition. I simply had to clean and
re-assemble.

I have had three XJ-S’s and changed three mounts so I can verify how bad
they are. I have also had three whining 1st gears, very irritating.

Richard

Richard.Mansell@ps.net

------ =_0_MIME_Boundary_3175.328a579a.imgxpd30.eurh021.eur.ps.net

------ =_0_MIME_Boundary_3175.328a579a.imgxpd30.eurh021.eur.ps.net–

From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 18:27:53 -0500
Subject: Re: bicycling Jag-lovers

For Sale;
My beloved mountain bike.
Need major restoration

-mainly bullet holes from Jim I.
Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
'62 E-Type, ots, flat floor.
Mountain bike - no mountain
-------------------------------------------------------------
“Laugh? I thought I’d die!”
A. Boleyn
-------------------------------------------------------------

From: tts@cadvision.com (Dan Hayes)
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 16:28:13 -0700
Subject: Bicycles & Boulder

Lawrence,

exactly what type of atmospheric testing are you doing down there?
…and on what type of product?

Dan
85 Sovereign
Calgary

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 18:43:04 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJS running temperatures

On Tue, 12 Nov 1996 Juliansean@aol.com wrote:

My car will run all day long at low speeds at a lower temperature on the
guage. At high speeds the temp. is higher.

One thing I’ve observed on my car is that the temperature is different
depending on where it is measured. I have temp sensors in the stock
location, top rear of right bank, and expansion tank. The readings at the
heads are always a little lower than the reading at the expansion tank.
For example, if the heads read around 170, the expansion tank reads 180.
My car has 180 thermostats, and this is a steady-state reading.

So to net it all out, since your car does not even get up to the N and two
thirds up to the N is 180 degrees (on my car, anyway) I’d say you have
nothing to worry about.

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 18:54:25 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJS running temperatures

On Tue, 12 Nov 1996, James A. Isbell wrote:

The following day was 80F and the needle rested on the bottom edge of the
“N” around town and in the middle of the “N” on the highway.

As you may have seen in another posting, I have found that two-thirds up
to the N on my car is 180 degrees F. If your temp sensor behaves the same
as mine, you are running much hotter. I have 180 degree thermostats. Are
yours hotter?

So with a newly cleaned system the car runs slightly warmer on the highway
than around town.

My car will do this, too, on the hottest days and I believe that the
prncipal reason is that my car lacks the undercar spoilers. On a 95
degree F day at 75 mph the temp will rise to 200 degrees, which on my car
is the bottom of the N.

John

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 19:05:23 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S Flooding is Not Fixed

On Wed, 13 Nov 1996, Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR wrote:

Don’t you also have an oxygen sensor ?

Yes, but the car has problems at cold start. Doesn’t this mean that the
car is operating in open loop and that the O2 sensors are just along for
the ride?

One thing I would do in your case is
to put in fixed resistors for the various sensor direct at the ECU
connector. Maybe you have a cable problem.

Yes, and in fact I was talking to the owner of the car about that earlier.
We will rigorously check the integrity of the cables between the sensor
and the ECU. Remember that his car ‘lost’ the ground signal for the fuel
pump relay at the ECU. Maybe he has other cable problems.

in account operation temperatures. Does the car run with a disconnected
throttle pot (I think it’s a switch actually) ?

He swapped in a throttle pot from another car and no change.

Try to knock gently with the back of a screwdriver on all connectors and
sensor at see/hear if there is any change in running.

There was some of this when the coolant temp connection was wiggled.
We’ll keep looking.

Are all cylinders
flooded ? Stuck injector ?

All cylinders seem to be behaving the same.

You might also have a problem in the power amp for the injectors, you could
try to swap these too.

Do you mean the injector ballast resistors? These are ok. Swapping ECUs
made no difference.

Thanks for the ideas.

John

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 19:10:45 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S Flooding is Not Fixed

On Mon, 11 Nov 1996, Stefan Schulz wrote:

Wouldn’t be surprised if that’d fix it. I once forgot to put the cable
to the air temp sensor back on after changing air filters, so the ECU must
have thought that it was in the Arctic. Car wouldn’t even catch when
cranking. Once I put the cable back on, all was fine.

This puzzles me. My car '82 XJ-S starts and drives with very little
difference with the air temp sensor disconnected. The manuals say that
this is a trim adjustment, too. Yet you and others cite cases where a
disconencted air temp sensor prevents the car from running. Do different
year Jags behave differently? Is there more than one design? Or, if
there is only one way it should work, whose car has the problem – mine or
yours?

John

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 19:37:30 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: bicycling Jag-lovers

On Wed, 13 Nov 1996, Jim Isbell wrote:

I happen to be a bicycling hater.

In our town we have a group of people who, “In order to draw attention to
ourselves” monthly stage a traffic slowdown by driving 100 or so bicycles
through rush hour trafic with police escort.

I guess I straddle this issue (no pun intended). I enjoy bicycling but
when I ride I go to great extremes to stay out of the way of automobile
traffic. Part of this is common sense, and part of this is an awareness
of what it is like to drive a car (this sounds naive but even most
drivers don’t know what the &#$* is going on).

The attitudes – or arrogance – of most bicyclists in my area amazes me.
The other day I had one in front of me, lolling along at ten mph on a 45
mph road. Weaving right and left across the lane. Not a care in the
world. I pulled alongside at a light and asked him why he rode that way.
He got real nasty and said I should just stop for him. Well, of course I
had, but an air of arrogance is a poor match for 6000 pounds of truck with
a less-concerned driver. Yes, Jim, he was a really skinny geeky guy.
Maybe this is how really skinny geeky guys get feel their oats.

I basically don’t want to lose a fight with a car, nor do I want to hold
up traffic. Because when I drive I don’t want traffic held up. I want to
GO.

From my experience Colorado is a lot more bike-friendly so maybe Laurence
doesn’t have to deal with this stuff. On the other hand, if you want to
see the most aggressive bike riders in the world, come to Manhatten.
These guys (messengers) want to MOVE, too – they are in it with the cabs
and everyone else – so no attitudes other than getting from point A to
point B.

Maybe those silly helmets provide an air of immunity? I wouldn’t trust
one – in my opinion if a helmet is to be used, then it should be the same
helmet standard required for motorcycles, because the truck that hits you
doesn’t know if your two-wheeler has a motor or not. Of course,
motorcycle helmets would ruin the bicyclists power-to-weight ratio…

(Any side bets as to how long Nick lets the bicyle thread last???)

John

From: “Lee Walden” lwalden@ebmud.com
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 16:43:22 -0800
Subject: Re: Veneer refinishing

Like everything else. If it was “good” to start with, why is everyone
always asking how to repair it. Like everything in the automotive world,
you build for “cheap”/maximum profit and let the owners pay to
maintain/install the “quality”. Sprayed on clear lacquer is quick to apply
and provides a high gloss finish which looks great and is economical to
apply. It just doesn’t last much past the warranty expiration date. Tung
oil will provide the same finish, but takes much longer to apply. It also
will outlast the lacquer finish by years, and it is easier to maintain it
looking good.

----------SNIP---------------

Surely that is what we need to know to be able to replicate the
excellent results that Jaguar achieves on the woodwork when new.

snip____

From: theo bremner tbremner@lynx.dac.neu.edu
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 20:20:50 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: In Need of a Manual…

Hello,

Anyone know of a good cheap place to get a indepth manual for

'85 Sov SIII. The dealer locally said about $140 which is a little
steep for me.

Thanks,
Theo
tbremner@lynx.neu.edu

From: “Kevin P. Campbell” kckckc@qni.com
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 19:28:42 -0800
Subject: god help my starter?

Gents…& Ladies,

It’s probably been addressed a thousand times but…

Anyone have any solution to a starter engagement that sounds as if I’m
trying to start an engine that is already running?

The neighbors think that I’ve lost my mind,…children cry,…old folk
JUMP and I crindge each and every time I turn the key.

It may not happen for 15 starts, but then I may have a run of this
horrifying bombastic god awful unnerving grinding and grating of good
metal for a couple of attempts per start for days before it ceases
again.

Jag owners are already nervous fatalists on the verge without the added
thrill of this metallic symphony to put us right over the proverbial
edge.!

Kevin Campbell

85 XJ-6

kckckc@qni.com

From: Victor Naumann jagdoc@erols.com
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 21:04:37 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ-S GM400 fluid change and dropped filter

Aaron Burnett wrote:

This past weekend I drained the Dexron II transmission fluid from the
GM400 in my '85 XJ-S and replaced it with Type F (per Kirby’s good
advice). I also took this opportunity to check and replace the
transmission filter which (again per Kirby’s book) had “dropped”. This
is what I encountered:

The filter is secured to the valve body at two points
    1)  a retaining bolt at center of the filter, about 1/3 of the way from
the rear
2) a three inch plastic feeder tube that is inserted into a rubber
grommet at the top/front of the filter on one end and the valve body on
the other.

This arrangement was doomed to failure (on my car anyway) for two
reasons.
  As mentioned above, the upper end of the feeder tube is inserted into
metal sleeve in the valve body. However, the only thing holding this
tube in place is the friction of a single O-ring – for a vertical
installation! The O-ring in my car had of course become brittle and
shrunken, providing almost no tension, and the tube had fallen away from
the valve body causing cavitation or lack of fluid supplied to the
transmission (whining in first and slipping in reverse when cold).
  Most important -- On my car, the retaining bolt used did not have
threads for the first 3/8" after the head. In others words (because I’m
not doing a very good job of describing this), the bolt could not be
turned all the way into the body of the transmission – the head was
left 3/8" from flush. As the metal flange around the mounting hole on
the filter is only about 1/16" thick, this meant that, even when the
bolt was firmly installed, the filter could move 5/16" up and down. I
assume that the filter bounced around on this mounting bolt and, when
the O-ring securing the front end of the filter began to wear, this
bouncing knocked the feeder tube from its hole.

As a solution, I installed the new filter using the same bolt but
provided a spacer backing of one metal washer flanked by two rubber
ones. These filled the original slack space between the filter and
valve body and created a solid mounting point. Also, because only
rubber washers contact the metal filter housing, I am hoping that the
housing will not wear as it would had I created metal-on-metal contact.
This arrangement should not allow the filter to flop around on its
mount, therefore the tension of the new O-ring on the feeder tube should
be sufficient to keep it in place.

I re-installed the pan with a new gasket and filled the transmission
with Type F fluid. The change to Type-F fluid has provided firmer and
more certain shifts which I prefer and, according to Kirby, decrease
transmission wear by decreasing slippage during shifting.

I don’t know if the situation I encountered is typical or simply another
bonus provided by the incompetent mechanic used by the PO (you know, the
one who forgot to install one of the thermostats). Anyway, hope the
information helps someone.

Aaron
'85 XJ-S

P.S. Although they are reputed to be of dubious quality and longevity,
the transmission mount on my car, which must be removed to work on the
tranny, was in excellent condition. I simply had to clean and
re-assemble.
That bolt is shouldered for a reason,it is supposed to let the filter
move. If the filter is changed every 30 K miles and a new O-ring is
installed, the filter will not drop. I have never seen a GM filter come
down out of the valve body but anything is possible. I also have never
heard anyone recommend F fluid in a GM box. It will be interesting to
see how it holds up. Please keep us informed.
Thanks , Vic

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #518

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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 14 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 519

Re[2]: all Jags came from Browns Lane…
Re: sighting of the ultimate XK8?
Service interval counter
Re[2]: Fuel economy
RE: bicycling Jag-lovers
Re: Veneer refinishing
Re: XJ-S Flooding is Not Fixed
re: XJ6/40 Pre-owned or Used
No Engine Warning on XJ40
Re: Veneer refinishing
XJ40: Door Handle Differences (89/90)
Re: XJ-S running temps
Re: Repost due to overwhleming lack of response - 1983 XJ6 S3 4.2 Cold start advice wanted.
XJS Surging
Re: XJ-S GM400 fluid change and dropped filter
Re: Service interval counter
Re: H & E

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 21:10:24 -0600
Subject: Re[2]: all Jags came from Browns Lane…

So, does that make it basically a Jeep?

MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: re: all Jags came from Browns Lane…
Author: ehuff@tuba.aix.calpoly.edu (Earl D Huff) at Internet
Date: 11/11/1996 12:59 PM

At the recent Open House at XKs Unlimited I came across a Mark II that they were
restoring for a gentleman in Mexico City. Under the hood, by the radiator was
a small copper plaque that said in Spanish that the car was assembled in Mexico.
by Willys Motors of Mexico.

Earl Huff
85 XJS
53 XK 120

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 21:06:15 -0600
Subject: Re: sighting of the ultimate XK8?

This is a Mime message, which your current mail reader
may not understand. Parts of the message will appear as
text. To process the remainder, you will need to use a Mime
compatible mail reader. Contact your vendor for details.

–IMA.Boundary.897739748
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Description: cc:Mail note part

six figures??? If it hasn’t already been taken, XK-8 would cost me a
whopping big $10 USD to claim here in Virginia. (My E-Type is
registered as “74E-Type”)

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: sighting of the ultimate XK8?
Author: brownd@filon.ml.com (Dave Brown - London Dev X1818) at Internet
Date: 11/11/1996 4:25 PM

A black XK8 coupe with the (private) registration of…“XK8”!!!

At a brief calculation/think I reckon the number plate to be worth
CONSIDERABLY more than the car (47K GBP here in Blighty). For reference,
I heard the registration " 911 SC" recently sold for well into six figures.

Cheers,
David

–IMA.Boundary.897739748–

From: “Kevin P. Campbell” kckckc@qni.com
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 20:29:43 -0800
Subject: Service interval counter

Gents,
I’m aware that the service interval counter is located in the
boot…but Where? (Federal model)

Replaced the O2 sensor and need to extinguish the darn light.

Kev
85 XJ-6

kckckc@qni.com

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 21:17:09 -0600
Subject: Re[2]: Fuel economy

 Every vehicle I own has increased fuel consumption in the colder 
 months.  The difference, however, is not related to the temperature.  
 It is because I live in an area (Northern Virginia) where "oxygenated" 
 fuel is sold from November through February.  When they switch over, 
 my consumption changes by nearly 10%.
 
 MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel economy
Author: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@CompuServe.COM at Internet
Date: 11/11/1996 5:53 PM

Dan,

I think the increased fuel consumption of your fuel injected Jaguar in the
winter (I assume?)
probably has more to do with the increased warm up period, in which the engine
runs enriched. Have you tested the consumption in “Hot” conditions only ?.

In colder weather the power of the engine should be greater (slightly), but also
the volumetric efficiency (better and more powerfull fill of the cylinders),
however this may
not be true at part throttle ?.

Just a guess.

RRegards Jeffrey Gram

From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 03:46:12 +0100
Subject: RE: bicycling Jag-lovers

Nah, the bicycle thread ain’t bad: The other day we had one-line “Great
idea!” reply quoting the entire 50-line+ original proposal. That was
bad, I’m surprised Nick didn’t have a heart attack, I nearly did. Hm…
maybe I should take up bicycling to work in order to survive that sort
of thing on the list…

Gunnar

(Any side bets as to how long Nick lets the bicyle thread last???)

John

From: spe00@eng.amdahl.com (Silas Elash)
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 96 18:55:09 PST
Subject: Re: Veneer refinishing

I sure would like to get a clear picture of the refinshing dilema.

Lee wrote:

----SNIP SNIP --------
Like everything else. If it was “good” to start with, why is everyone
always asking how to repair it. Like everything in the automotive world,
you build for “cheap”/maximum profit and let the owners pay to
maintain/install the “quality”.
------SNIP SNIP ------

I dont know if I believe this. Jaguar would not have chosen hand made wood
if economy was the main concern. My wood has lot numbers on the back and in
some cases the initials of the craftsman that worked on it. I just don’t
think all that craftsmanship would have been compromised by the easiest cheapest
finish. If they wanted that they could have offered you a VW.

-------SNIP SNIP ---------

Sprayed on clear lacquer is quick to apply
and provides a high gloss finish which looks great and is economical to
apply. It just doesn’t last much past the warranty expiration date.
------ SNIP SNIP -------

Is this really true? I would like to hear from some of the jag owners that
owned the early sedans- How many years did the original lacquer finsih last??
I would imagine it lasted a good ten years? This bit of information will really
help some of us make a choice in finish medium. Speak up out there you original
owners - and let us know what kind of environment the car lived in.

----SNIP SNIP -------
Tung oil will provide the same finish, but takes much longer to apply. It also
will outlast the lacquer finish by years, and it is easier to maintain it
looking good.
-----SNIP SNIP ------

I really don’t believe that Tung Oil will provide the SAME finish that a lacquer
finish will provide in terms of depth and the “original look.” The upkeep on the
tung oil is what? Do you have to recoat at regular intervals? I am not very
knowlegable about tung oil but my recollections are that it does not come close in
terms of luster and depth. And if you must overcoat it with a wax polish, doesn’t
that wax tend to collect dust and dirt and eventually need to be stripped off?
Wax and dirt seem to have an affinity for one another, and I for one don’t want
to be trying to get my polsih cloth down in the recesses of my dash and other
areas to wax/recoat it.

Tung oil may provide a nice finish to look at, but I really question the look
compared to lacquer. I have had a bit of experience with lacquer in furniture
applications and find it easy to apply and very forgiving.

I would really like to get to the truth in this whole question of refinishing,
and hope that we get some responses from the original owners, and some
clarification on just what kind of look each finsih will achieve, and what the
original look was. Then maybe we can document each others information, the
pros and cons of each finish, and let us all make a choice of finish with full
knowledge of how that finish will apply, hold up, and need to be kept up.

This is one area that I see discussed often here but never seems to get carried
to a logical conclussion. Maybe we can do it this time. I am going to apply
a lacquer finish to my wood. I would be glad to take pictures and offer them for
posting. If some of these other finishes could likewise be documented, that would
be great. I would further be willing to document the “life” of my finish as the
years go by, what upkeep was required and any problems. If we would all do this
maybe we will have a good collection of data?

I am sure that there is no “magic finish” that lasts forever and holds up
to all types of abuse. I just want to be sure of what the trade offs are
for each choice.

Looking for a light at the end of the refinishing tunnel,

Silas

----------SNIP---------------

Surely that is what we need to know to be able to replicate the
excellent results that Jaguar achieves on the woodwork when new.

snip____

From: sfisher@sola.com.au (Scott Fisher)
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 96 01:09 CST
Subject: Re: XJ-S Flooding is Not Fixed

John Napoli jgn@li.net wrote …

This puzzles me. My car '82 XJ-S starts and drives with very little
difference with the air temp sensor disconnected. The manuals say that
this is a trim adjustment, too. Yet you and others cite cases where a
disconencted air temp sensor prevents the car from running. Do different
year Jags behave differently? Is there more than one design? Or, if
there is only one way it should work, whose car has the problem – mine or
yours?

On the XJ6 Bosch L-Jetronic system where the air temp sensor is internal
to the air flow meter the air-temp sensor is indeed a ‘trim’ adjustment, however
if it goes open-circuit the failure mode is to dump maximum fuel. It is always
better to flood an engine than to lean it out and overheat it to distruction.

On the XJ12 the air-temp sensor is separate is it not? I am suprised disconnecting it has little or no effect. Different system obviously. However the principal still stands, that if your XJS is flooding a sensor may be going open circuit. Regards Scott. __________________________________________________________________________ Scott Fisher [sfisher@sola.com.au] PH: +61 08 329-28341. –|\ N SOLA / \ W + E International Holdings Research Center _.–_/ S Adelaide, South Australia. v Joy ia a Jaguar XJ6 with a flat battery, a blown oil seal and an unsympathetic wife, 9km outside of a small remote town, 3:15am on a cold wet winters morning. __________________________________________________________________________ SOLA?- Opthalmic Lens Manufacturer, unless all those transparent disks we make are part of some secret conspiracy to make transparent disks! __________________________________________________________________________ From: RMac@aol.com Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 23:06:54 -0500 Subject: re: XJ6/40 Pre-owned or Used Luis R. Anaya lanaya@notes.cc.bellcore.com speculated regarding the more desirable source of a used Jaguar: Also lemon law in New Jersey makes the seller to buy the car back if it is a real lemon, however God knows how much agravation I’ll have. I belive that merely needing a lot of service does not qualify a car as a lemon; it has to be inherently unrepairable. It definitely applies only to dealers. another alternative would be to buy an old one, rip the engine off and put a chevy one Not into an XJ40! In a fit of British engineering, the Jag people designed the XJ40 engine bay to be too narrow to fit a V engine, in spite of the car’s being nine inches wider than its predecessor, the XJ6. (This was later fixed, in 1994, I believe, but you’re not going to buy that new a car in order to switch engines.) Also, the engines of the XJ40 aren’t that bad. Of the US$3,500 I’ve blown in my own five months of XJ40 ownership, I have spent only $550 on the engine – for a water pump and engine belts. The rest was for suspension and body problems. If I were to do it over again I would spend the extra money for a Pre-owned, certified, bumper-to-bumper warranty, dealer car. It would be cheaper in the long run, and you will have no expensive surprises. There are a lot of attractively priced 89-89 models out there in the $8,000 range, some in quite good cosmetic condition. Beware! – the hassles of owning these make the later cars seem perfect in comparison. From: Mike Everatt meveratt@Direct.CA Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 20:08:24 -0800 Subject: No Engine Warning on XJ40 Hi all, Has anyone had experience with an XJ40 that DOES NOT display a “Check Engine” or “Fueling Failure” when there is most definitely a fault? I know that I have an engine management problem, but even when I disconnect sensors, like the crank position indicator, the Oxygen sensor, or the Air Mass Sensor, I still get no warning! (although the car stops running or runs even worse) Could the PO have disconnected a wire to prevent engine codes from being displayed, and if so, where? I haven’t found anything obvious. Symptoms: car starts when cold OK, but then stumbles. Idle jumps up and down for a minute or so. Then it smooths out a bit, but the idle is still erratic, and the car will stumble while cruising. Never stalls, always starts and has never died – but I worry it will one day! Mike Everatt 1987 XJ40 From: cobac@ix.netcom.com Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 20:09:58 -0800 Subject: Re: Veneer refinishing At 09:33 PM 11/12/96 -0500, you wrote:

Hello everyone,

I’ve always used spar varnish to refinish my wood in the past, but I was
recently talking to a local professional restorer who works primarily with
Rolls Royces, and he mentioned that he’s recently switched to using the clear
coat of exterior base coat/clear coat automotive paints (ChromaClear or
similar products). He claims the resulting finish
reaches final hardness rapidly (always a problem with varnish), is flexible
enough not to crack, and has excellent UV light resistance. The work he
showed me looked excellent, but I’d appreciate knowing if anyone else out
there has tried this and what their experience has been.

Thanks
Jon Schrock
1977 XJ12L
1965 E Type FHC
1956 XK 140 FHC

What type of ChromaClear does he use? There is 7500, 7800, 7600, and other
types. As automotive refinshing, our facility uses the 7600 for spot repair
(a door, fender, etc.). It does dry very fast, is very durable, and has a
nice shine. Also, it can be sanded with 2000 grit sandpaper and polished
with automotive compounds to provided a flawless, high-gloss shine. I am
curious as to how it will bond to the wood, I’ve never used it on anything
but cars. Also, the rubbing could cause the wood to bend and the finish to
crack if pressed to hard. Seems like a good idea, and should be easy to
re-strip if it goes “bad”. I’ll have to try it on a scrap piece of wood,
then on my wood.
I first have to figure how to strip the piece of the old finish, how to
fix the cracks (with glue and an iron?), and what color to stain it before
clear coating it.
I want the pieces to resemble the wood in 93 and newer Jaguars (XJ40,
X300), it is very dark and extremely high-gloss. Is this what the wood
looked like that you witnessed?

Cheers,
Eric
1989 VDP

From: cobac@ix.netcom.com
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 20:20:26 -0800
Subject: XJ40: Door Handle Differences (89/90)

Hi list,
Here’s another stupid question that has had me puzzeled, maybe someone
can enlighten me.
Is there obvious noticeable difference between the door handles of 1989
and 1990 (U.S.) XJ40’s? I know that 90’s are different in that they are
stronger, and I think have different keys. But, is there an external
difference on the outside of the car that can be seen?
To me the 88-89 seem to have a “squareish”, and sharp edge lines to
them. The 90 and up seem to be bigger and more rounded to fit the car
better. I’ve looked at close pictures and the handles seem the same, but
sometimes seem different if I see a newer (94) car on the road. Any ideas?
It’s a weird question, sorry, I’m just curious about it all.
Thanks,
Eric

From: Paul Peard 100025.1253@CompuServe.COM
Date: 14 Nov 96 00:10:39 EST
Subject: Re: XJ-S running temps

I know this is old ground but I am interested in the “normal” XJ-S temps. My car
recently started having overheating problems, but even before then it always ran
just below N at average speeds and slightly above N when pressed.

From what I am hearing, it has always run hot, and it just recently got worse,
if so, that changes the diagnostic process.

Could other XJ-S V12 owners let me know their average temps - send it direct, I
guess the list doesn’t want to know…

Thanks
Paul
100025.1253@compuserve.com

From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 23:51:03 -0600
Subject: Re: Repost due to overwhleming lack of response - 1983 XJ6 S3 4.2 Cold start advice wanted.

: From: Roly Alcock roly@redac.co.uk To: jag-lovers@sn.no
: Subject: Repost due to overwhleming lack of response
: Subject: 1983 XJ6 S3 4.2 Cold start advice wanted.
: Date: Wednesday, November 13, 1996 2:52 AM
:
: Perhaps I am using the wrong soap, or have not got my charisma switched
on
: the only response I had from the first post was from Nick and that was
tongue
: in cheek!

Yes, sad but true… soap has it’s effect… at least thats what my dog
tells me.

: (frozen mist and all that) I find that the XJ6 is not as willing to
: start as it was last winter. It will start, but only after ~8 revoltions
: of the engine. My questions are:

: Should I be fiddling around in the air flow meter to check the fuel pump
: contact ( Ref Michael Neal’s technical advice pages ) is there more than
: one switch in the meter, if so which one should I be checking and how.

The air flow meter on the bosch L-Jetronic fuel system is a “staged”
device… it has a series of progressive circuits. If you remove the air
inlet pipe and move the air door by hand it is possible to verify the
continuity of each set of contacts. You really need a wiring diagram to
assist you in this. That particular part seldom goes bad. At least that has
been my experience. If it was deffective there would be some pronounced
running problems.

: How can I really check that I am getting the correct ballasted voltage
: during cranking. (with the ignition switched on and engine not started,
: I was unable to measure and significant voltage between either + or - and
: ground, so I assume that other electrickery controls are at work here).

one problem I have run into is the connector that supplies the current to
the coil sometimes (extreme heat or cold) “flexes” (<-- for lack of a
better word) and will not supply proper voltage to the coil. It is located
at the right front of the engine… follow the wiring beneath the ignition
module located at the front of the intake manifold. To repair pull the
connector apart and clean the contacts, which may be very greasy,
and reform them so they fit more snugly together… i.e. bend them with
pliers

: Does oil pressure have any bearing on fuel supply? I believe some
: cars cut the fuel supply if the oil pressure fails, therefore there
: must be some override to this at cranking time, and the number of
: revolutions turned before the car willingly starts may have a bearing
: on this.
:
: Finally, the factory loomed wiring to the coil bears no resemblence
: to the schematic wiring diagram. My coil has three wires on the +
: side and 2 on the - side. Any comments.

For the above two I would need to have a wiring diagram in front of me and
since I am reluctant to go to the garage at 10:30 at night… with regards
to the coil wiring I wouldn’t be too concerned as long as it looked like no
one had performed some butchering… I mean… “creative” wiring repairs.

: Is there anything else that I should consider?

The first thing I would check is the cold start injector. It is the odd
looking injector which sits just in front of the air flow meter on the
intake. To check it simply remove it and plug the hole. Start the engine
and verify there is a mist from it. No mist means no fuel, no current or
deffective injector. If this turns out to be the problem then consult the
schematic you have and locate it’s controls till you get to the bad part.
Best I can remember (without looking) there is a thermistor located on the
intake just above the injector. You could either install a fuel pressure
gauge at the injector or remove the fuel line to it and place the line in a
plastic container to check that it has a supply of fuel. Even though the
possibility of the injector not getting fuel is remote it still might not
be a bad idea to put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail, it would tell you
right away if the fuel rail was under pressure prior to cranking. The pump
should switch on for about 2 seconds before you turn the key to the crank
position to pressurize the fuel rail.

Have you ever had the injectors cleaned or replaced? The pintle clearance
of he injectors is about 2/1000 (two thousandths) of an inch. Pretty tight.
Any buildup and the injectors will spray in reduced amounts and in streams
instead of that nice mist in the shape of a cone it’s supposed to deliver.
You could try to run fuel system cleaner (an addative to the fuel) for a
couple of fill ups in succession and then just prior to every oil change,
or have them cleaned. Cleaning them isn’t a bad idea in any case. I’m not
sure how clean the fuel is in the UK, but here in the states it’s pretty
sad. Low low octane since lead was removed in the 70’s and due to the
“cracking” process the fuel contains more of the undesirable elements or
the crude it’s made from. I know… lead poisons the atmosphere and drove
the ancient Romans bananas, but it sure did make the exhaust seats live
longer in “lump” engines, not to mention those great octane ratings 100+ at
the pump. Now I just go to a small airport nearby and drag a couple of 5
gallon containers with me when I need some real “juice”

One more thing that comes to mind is the condition may be normal for a car
of the age yours is. As an engine ages there is a buildup of carbon on the
intake valves, this has the effect of soaking up the fuel till it’s
saturated and then fuel can be delivered into the cylinders. I read where
you said that the head was off the engine in the last year… was it
serviced or just checked for cracks?

: P.S. I had a begging letter from Ghana today, apparently the student who
wrote
: it read my name in a Jaguar magazine. Anybody elese had one?
: I am sure it is the people who do NOT own Jaguars are the ones who have
some
: cash left over for good causes.

didn’t follow that conversation… Yupp, Jags can sometimes drain you…
not to mention get you into trouble with young blondes.

Tim Blystone
pcsolutions@mindspring.com
tlblystone@aol.com

“Newspaper taxis arrive at the shore, waiting to take you away,
climb in the back with your head in the clouds, and you’re gone”
Lennon & McCartney 1967

From: ehuff@tuba.aix.calpoly.edu (Earl D Huff)
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 21:38:26 -0800
Subject: XJS Surging

I continue to have problems with my 85 XJS surging twice a second from time to
time. The latest suggested “cure” for the problem came today from an emissions
mechanic sho says the problem stems from an accumulation of carbon on the intake
valves. He seems quite certain that the problem can be easily cleared up by
using GM Top End Cleaner (whatever that is). Doe this make ANY sense?

Earl Huff
85 XJS
53 XK 120

From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 00:37:23 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S GM400 fluid change and dropped filter

I don’t know if the situation I encountered is typical or simply another
bonus provided by the incompetent mechanic used by the PO (you know, the
one who forgot to install one of the thermostats). Anyway, hope the
information helps someone.

That bolt is shouldered for a reason, though I can not tell you exactly why.
All GM trannys of that general era use a floating filter that sort of lays
in the bottom of the pan. At least the 400 has a positive bolt. Others
use a cheesy spring clip.

Aaron
'85 XJ-S

P.S. Although they are reputed to be of dubious quality and longevity,
the transmission mount on my car, which must be removed to work on the
tranny, was in excellent condition. I simply had to clean and
re-assemble.

There are three failure points on the tranny mount. The center damper, the
spring, and assembly. The spring is checked by measuring it’s free length
while out of the car. The other two can be checked by doing a “shock bounce”
test. Grab the back of the tranny and get it moving up and down. Now let
go. If it continues to bounce, even one full cycle, then either the damper
is shot, or the mount has been assembled wrong. Usually it’s both.

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 00:41:23 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Service interval counter

Gents,
I’m aware that the service interval counter is located in the
boot…but Where? (Federal model)

Replaced the O2 sensor and need to extinguish the darn light.

Kev
85 XJ-6

kckckc@qni.com

Remove the foreward panel of the boot/trunk. Behind this panel, you will
find some electronics, including the injection brain (far right) and the
service light counter (center). It’s a black squarish box with a stepper
motor on top. Also on top will be a resessed white button. Push it in all
the way. CLUNK. done.

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 00:29:30 -0600
Subject: Re: H & E

: From: Bob Shipley bshipley@mail.tds.net
: To: pcsolutions@MindSpring.COM
: Subject: H & E Date: Tuesday, November 12, 1996 7:37 PM
:
: Hello Tim,
:
: I caught your thread regarding the fuel system on the H & E. I have a 88
: that I purchased back in July. I haven’t been able to find out much
: information concerning the H & E, and I would certainly appreciate any
: comments that you may have. Also, I found it interesting that you
referred
: to the H & E as a convertible / conversion. Maybe that explains why my
: vehicle ID number indicates a coupe.
:
: Thanks,
: Bob Shipley
: 88 H & E Convertible / conversion

Hello Bob,

The Hess & Eisenhardt is a conversion which is done in here in the states
in (I believe) Saint Louis Missouri. Jag got a little disgusted with the
way their XJS’s were being “remanufactured” and decided to revive the
convertible XJS. I personally belive a big factor was losing a market to a
conversion company here in the US. 1988 was the Year for the first of the
Jag built convertibles to return to the US. I predelivered the first one to
hit Nashville and got quite a thrill while road testing it. It was the
prettiest red with tan seats, and drove like a dream. Man-O-Man was she
FAST!!! Oh… ok back to the H&E’s. Pretty much they are the same
mechanically as the box stock coupe, except for the fuel system and the
addition of frame supports underneath the car.

They weigh on the average about 500 lbs more due to the frame rails and the
additional hardware associated with the convertible top. I love the way
they look and even though I don’t like the way H&E did some of their
handywork I still think they are fine cars. My main dislike as you might
imagine is the extra poundage, however all in all its a pretty good job of
adding on a chop-top. I would buy one at the drop of a hat except… due
to a recent divorce and the fact I have three boys to get through high
school and then through college, I can’t afford to buy a hat. Ok I’ll quit
whining now, enjoy your H&E its a fine car and the XJSes are without a
doubt one of the best built cars around. Jags in general are superior road
cars and the S is a real eyecatcher.

Tim Blystone
pcsolutions@mindspring.com
tlblystone@aol.com

“Newspaper taxis arrive at the shore, waiting to take you away,
climb in the back with your head in the clouds, and you’re gone”
Lennon & McCartney 1967

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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 14 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 520

Re: XJ-S Flooding is Not Fixed
Re: XJS running temperatures
Veneer Refinishing
Re: Where’s the HP - V12
X-mailer: SecMail v1.1
Re: - Please do not want the list - We’re a computer company
Do not want to receive the messages - help
X-mailer: SecMail v1.1
Re: Air Conditioning - noise -XJ40 -1988
Re: XJ6 - SIII - Power Steering Noise
Re: XJ-S Flooding is Not Fixed
Info
bicycle haters
RE: Greased connectors
1983 XJ6 S3 4.2 Cold start advice wanted.
Re: [UK members] Top Gear on BBC
Thanks for Jaguar Lonline mention
Links
84 XJ6 amount of final gear noise

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 07:53:22 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: XJ-S Flooding is Not Fixed

Don’t you also have an oxygen sensor ?

Yes, but the car has problems at cold start. Doesn’t this mean that the
car is operating in open loop and that the O2 sensors are just along for
the ride?

This might well be the case, I’m not familar with the O2 sensors. Although
I would not be sure what happens if the sensor is for example complety open
due to a broken wire etc. Might be reasonable easy to check if you disconnect
the sensor and check if the car starts.

Try to knock gently with the back of a screwdriver on all connectors and
sensor at see/hear if there is any change in running.

There was some of this when the coolant temp connection was wiggled.
We’ll keep looking.

This sounds like a trouble spot ! The cooland temp sensor is most important.
I’ve played around a lot with these values to reduce fuel consumption at
warmup. Any major change to the value resulted in a no-start condition
on my car.

I checked yesterday my various fuel injection books from BOSCH and one thing
I forgot to mention are the cold-start injectors. If they (or the control)
have a problem, flooding can also occur.

- Matthias

From: Kon Kakanis kkakanis@sundata.com.au
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 17:08:15 ±1100
Subject: Re: XJS running temperatures

Saw in #515

From: Jan Wikstroem=20

'If you watch the temperature gauge in a conventional car, you’ll see it =

kick up well above the normal temperature, then come back down, kick =
rather=20
less and then settle down after two-three pulsations. My elderly Rover =
75 used=20
to open its thermostat every 5-6 minutes in Swedish winter driving and =
never=20
settled down.’

Don’t worry about looking for this effect in your XJS as it only happens =
with the older capilliary type temperature senders. They are more =
sensitive than electronic types as fitted to XJ’s which tend to have a =
more damped response.

My MGB used to pull this stunt and I could impress my passenger no end =
by waiting for the initial rise past normal temp and then pointing to =
the gauge and sternly asking it to cool down. if my timing was right, =
down the needle would come.

Question on thermostats - does anyone have experience running a blanking =
plate instead of a thermostat? My very early Mark VII uses an odd size =
that I can’t obtain & I have made up an alloy plate with a hole about =
3/4 of an inch across. This runs just below 170 degrees and where I =
live (Brisbane Australia), cold weather is not a problem. But when I =
go faster (in a Mark VII this means 60 MPH or more) she runs COOLER. I =
know, I know, just make the hole a bit smaller I hear you say, but after =
reading all about thermodynamics in the last few issues, I don’t know if =
it is that straightforward and I don’t have a convenient CRAY to model =
the system.

Thoughts (apart from buy a thermostat) would be appreciated.

Kon Kakanis

From: Kon Kakanis kkakanis@sundata.com.au
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 17:11:05 ±1100
Subject: Veneer Refinishing

Check out Nicks home page and you will find a fairly detailed outline by Larry Martz on this subject.

From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 01:34:17 -0600
Subject: Re: Where’s the HP - V12

: From: Kirbert palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu To: jag-lovers@sn.no
: Subject: Where’s the HP-V12 Date: Mon, Nov 11, 1996 3:29 PM

: Kirby:
: > If this had been a Ford or Chevy product, the exact same 5.3l engine
: > would be producing something well in excess of 1 hp/ci, probably
: > something in the mid- to high-300’s.

: What should be clear to all jag-lovers is that comparing the hp/ci of
: a Chevy pushrod lump to an OHC Jaguar V-12 is totally inappropriate.
: Try comparing the Jaguar engine to other engines of the same quality
: and era.

might be inappropriate but… for the cost of an off the shelf 12 clyinder
Jag engine. I or anyone else can build a “lump” motor that will outperform
and live as long as any 12 cylinder you can get off the shelf. Small block
chevy engines can be built so the valve train is almost indestructible.
Stainless Steel Norris rocker assemblies, are one thing that comes to mind.
Bowtie heads with 2.02 intake valves and 1.65 exhaust valves with some mild
porting will breathe plenty fine. Very high quality steel cranks and rods
attached to hyperutectic pistons in a sleeved cylinder will spin clear to
7000 rpm - no problem, seal all day long and live far in excess of a stock
engine. The induction system is wide open for possibilities, I myself am
very partial to the moon intake and six Webers. If port injection is the
route I choose my imagination is the only limit. The camshaft area is not
lacking, one cam in the center of the block is very effective, a hydraulic
roller design with those great roller tappets turn out to work very well.
All this can be done for under the $10,000 an off the shelf V-12 would set
you back.

Getting 450bhp from a 350 chevy “lump” is no big trick. Getting one to live
for more than a 200k miles without smoking is no problem. Doing it on pump
gas is no problem. Doing it for under $10,000 is no problem. The parts are
readily accessible.

If 450bhp isn’t enough for an engine then we’ll discuss a chevy LS-6 or
maybe a LS-7 engine that can put out in excess of 600bhp right out of the
crate. Or maybe we can discuss building a 427 tall deck block to some
outrageous specs that will live for an eternity and propell a Jag very
fast. I just worked on, yesterday, a 427 tall deck. A stock engine with
excess of 150,000 miles that idles smooooth, and pulls a C-35 truck no
problem at all. Lots of power. Only thing wrong with that engine is it
puffs some blue smoke on a cold start, perhaps I’ll talk to the customer
and we’ll install some new steel valve guides, or maybe some bronze guides.
Then it’ll go on churning out the miles for who knows how long. Probably
another 150k or so before it needs additional work. I have driven many Jags
on the interstate for a road test. I have observed some serious blow-by on
hard acceleration on quite a lot of them. And then there is the “dog turd”
rope rear main seal. Jags can be some serious leakers.

Yes I agree with anyone who says Jag builds some fine engines. Right out of
the crate they are among the finest to be had, I love them. I love the way
a 12 cyl looks just before it goes back into the car, the twin intakes and
that huge oil pan are great. There is alot to be said for the Chevrolet
small block. I would agree that general motors could do a better job, and
in some cases the engine is post production sh*t, and if you don’t have a
clue as to where to start the small block isn’t a good choice, but
nonetheless dollar for dollar I can build a small block that is nothing
short of phenominal.

: Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
: | some rules must be broken.
: | - Palm’s Postulate

exactly.

Tim Blystone
pcsolutions@mindspring.com
tlblystone@aol.com

“Newspaper taxis arrive at the shore, waiting to take you away,
climb in the back with your head in the clouds, and you’re gone”
Lennon & McCartney 1967

From: quest-it@cis.co.za
Date: 14 Nov 96 09:03:42 GMT-2
Subject: X-mailer: SecMail v1.1

Hi There

I’ve got a Problem…

How do I get To Stop this mailing list - My E-mail Address is actually a computer company’s.

At the moment we get 1000 messages a week, about Jaguars. I’m Actually a Computer Technician and at the moment I’m Feeling like a mechanic these days.

If the right person reed this message, will you please try to stop this Jag-lovers list or give my advice how to stop it…

Thanks anyway

Maartin - quest-it@cis.co.za

From: quest-it@cis.co.za
Date: 14 Nov 96 09:20:16 GMT-2
Subject: Re: - Please do not want the list - We’re a computer company

Hi there all

How would I be able to stop this list - My E-mail address is actually a Computer company’s address, and I’m a Computer Technician - These days I actually feel like a mechanic.

Coul somebody or the right person please stop sending all the Jaguar information to my E-mail Address - quest-it@cis.co.za.

At this moment I do not know if I get messages from my suppliers - Each day I have to go through allmost 300 messages and non of them are realy for me or about computers.

I must say, it seems nice to have a Jaguar…

Thanks anyway

Maartin Herbst - South Africa - quest-it@cis.co.za

From: quest-it@cis.co.za
Date: 14 Nov 96 09:29:07 GMT-2
Subject: Do not want to receive the messages - help

Hi there all

Could somebody help me

I’m actually a technician at a computer company

How would I be able to stop the mailing list…

I’m feeling like a mechanic these days

Woul somebody help me

Thank you

Maartin Herbst

Maarti

than

From: quest-it@cis.co.za
Date: 14 Nov 96 09:29:06 GMT-2
Subject: X-mailer: SecMail v1.1

From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 01:50:06 -0600
Subject: Re: Air Conditioning - noise -XJ40 -1988

: From: Rod Farmer 100646.664@CompuServe.COM
: To: Jag-Lovers jag-lovers@sn.no
: Subject: Air Conditioning - noise -XJ40 -1988
: Date: Tuesday, November 12, 1996 5:02 PM

: The air con radiator has been replaced and the system re-gased
: - this work was done by a 'fridge engineer. The system works fine,
: however there is a ‘hissing’ noise which comes and goes when the
: system is cooling. I think this may be due to one of three things.
: Over charged system, Under charged system or posibly moisture
: in the system. The forgoing based on my experience of working on
: domestic refrigeration. Any thoughs please?
:
: Rod Farmer
: XJ40 - UK|

right off hand I’d say it’s the pressure equalizing in the system when the
compressor clutch is released. The compressor has either a superheat switch
or a high pressure switch which will temporarily disengage the clutch. The
a.c. system will disengage the compressor while the engine is running as
the climate control computer decideds whether or not it needs it.

Tim Blystone
pcsolutions@mindspring.com
tlblystone@aol.com

“Newspaper taxis arrive at the shore, waiting to take you away,
climb in the back with your head in the clouds, and you’re gone”
Lennon & McCartney 1967

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 08:35:58 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: XJ6 - SIII - Power Steering Noise

Keep checking the power steering fluid level! Is the fluid on the floor =
red in colour? ie like auto transmission fluid. Suspect that your =
steering rack needs to be rebuilt, or otherwise the steering pump leaks =
and needs new seals (and the leak makes it’s way down and only appears =
to come from the rack boot.

In any case, noticeable amounts of power steering fluid on the floor =
probably means the car won’t have power steer for much longer.

My car has been leaking power steering fluid from the tower seal for 1 1/2
years. Just topping up once per months and a set of towels in the garage
did the job until now. So I guess it really depends where you leak is.
And yes, I have a new seal now, I just need to find some time to put it in.
Any experience someone ? Do you need to remove the rack from the car ?

Or maybe I should not do this. After fixing the engine oil leaks, the
final drive oil leaks, the leaking fuel tank, the leaking coolant
expansion tank the garage floor would be simpy clean. I guess this takes
at least - 1.5 points should the car ever go to concourse

thanks

- Matthias

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 08:51:17 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: XJ-S Flooding is Not Fixed

This puzzles me. My car '82 XJ-S starts and drives with very little
difference with the air temp sensor disconnected. The manuals say that
this is a trim adjustment, too. Yet you and others cite cases where a
disconencted air temp sensor prevents the car from running. Do different
year Jags behave differently? Is there more than one design? Or, if
there is only one way it should work, whose car has the problem – mine or
yours?

On the XJ6 Bosch L-Jetronic system where the air temp sensor is internal
to the air flow meter the air-temp sensor is indeed a ‘trim’ adjustment, however
if it goes open-circuit the failure mode is to dump maximum fuel. It is always
better to flood an engine than to lean it out and overheat it to distruction.

On the XJ12 the air-temp sensor is separate is it not? I am suprised
disconnecting
it has little or no effect.

The air-temp sensor is in the left-hand air filter housing in the XJ-S.
Leaving it disconnected really does not change (at least on my car). In one
of my BOSCH manuals it is even mentioned as a “tuning” trick to simply
open the connector, which would make the engine running a little richer.
I could check on this if someone is interested

- Matthias

From: blkcat@juno.com (Lori J Kroeger)
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 03:26:55 EST
Subject: Info

Hi All,

We would like to thank every one for the Info on the jaguar books and
sales books.

  Thank You All.

Bill & Lori Kroeger
1985 XJ6
blkcat@juno.com

From: brownd@filon.ml.com (Dave Brown - London Dev X1818)
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 96 09:15:40 GMT
Subject: bicycle haters

Hi,

I’m afraid I’m on Jim’s side here…

In London bicyclists are a complete pain in the arse. Every year local newspapers and
radio stations have surveys/phone-in’s about what people hate most about driving in
London and the answer is always the same…Bloody bicyclists!!

Don’t get me wrong, I have ridden a bike for leisure many times, but why do bicyclists
think that they have a God-given right to completely ignore the laws of the road! Bear in
mind that this might be particular to London, but they run red lights and stop signs,
ride on the pavement whenever they feel like it, ride over pedestrian crossings and
generally do whatever they feel like. And then they complain when other law-abiding road
users haver the temerity to suggest that they might actually want to abide by the traffic
laws!!

Also, why don’t cyclists have to have compulsory insurance like other road users?
Imagine, you’re sitting at a junction in your E-type, when some berk on a bike shoots
across the pavement(sidewalk) to cut the corner, has to take avoiding action to miss the
mother and child walking on said pavement, and careers along the side of your car,
leaving deep scratches. And all you can do is cry…

Anyway, I’ll get off my soapbox now… :-))

BTW, there is meant to be a slight element of tongue-in-cheek over-the-topness here, so
don’t flame me too much!!

Cheers,
David

David Brown,
brownd@ml.com
///_/_/_/_/////_///______
/_/_//_/_/_/_/_/____
/_/_/_/_/______/_/_/_/______
/_/_/_/_/_/_/________/_/_____
___/_/_/////_/_/_/_/_/______
/_/___/_/_//_/_/_/____
///_/_/_/____/////_///_________

From: Tom Graham TGraham@internetmci.com
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 23:10:35 -0500
Subject: RE: Greased connectors

– [ From: Tom Graham * EMC.Ver #2.3 ] –

'Morning Chaps-
I heard many years ago on a car radio program an automotive engineer
discussing car mechanical design in general. He said that the biggest
problem the auto makers face is that electrical connectors become
unreliable (Or words like that) after about 10 years. I believe it. Of
course that is from the auto makers view point. I’m sure the aircraft and
military designers have it worked out better. Anyway, I use dielectric
grease on all auto connectors. Even tried it once on the old type ignition
points!!! That did NOT work, so don’t use it there.

Nothing quite as irritating as a connector going bad and becoming
intermittent is there?? My old 1981 Ford began simply quitting at random,
about once a week. Sometimes it would restart immediately, sometimes not.
MY wife INSISTED we have the FORD dealer repair look it over. They keep it
over night and of course it started fine, they found nothing. I finally
went through the ignition wiring pieces in and around the distributor and
amplifier, replacing all connectors/plugs with new ones. (And used
dielectric grease). Musta been about 20 of them. Two years later, no more
such problems.

One more $.02 worth, if your looking at/for an electrical type problem,
suspect the connector first. This I’ve found true in cars, computers, TVs,
whatever.

Cherio - Tom

From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 05:48:36 -0600
Subject: 1983 XJ6 S3 4.2 Cold start advice wanted.

: Thank you for the long and detailed reply that you have put together.

you’re welcome

: I expect that I will be looking in detail at the car on Sunday so I will
: keep you informed as to what I find.

I would be interested in hearing what you find.

: 2nd head gasket fail in 18 months, head was machined and crack
: tested, valves inspected but I believe that is as far as it got.

If you find nothing wrong in any of the other areas, and you are willing to
remove the intake, and you do find a sufficient amount of carbon on the
intake valves there is a way to clean them and clean the ports while the
head is still on the engine. While I worked at the Volvo dealership we used
a machine that bolts to the intake ports one port at a time. It sprays
crushed english walnut shells into the port at a high velocity. The pieces
of shell are blasted in with pressureized air and sucked out with a larger
second hose. I was completely amazed the first time I saw this process
used. I thought the thing wasn’t going to be very effective and would only
provide marginal results. I was wrong, the port was completely clean. Not a
trace of carbon remained. Coolest solution to the problem I ever witnessed.

: Thank you very much again,

You’re very welcome :+)

Tim Blystone
pcsolutions@mindspring.com
tlblystone@aol.com

“Newspaper taxis arrive at the shore, waiting to take you away,
climb in the back with your head in the clouds, and you’re gone”
Lennon & McCartney 1967

From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 06:14:51 -0600
Subject: Re: [UK members] Top Gear on BBC

: From: Nick nick@sn.no
: To: jag-lovers@sn.no
: Subject: [UK members] Top Gear on BBC
: Date: Wednesday, November 13, 1996 7:06 AM

: Viewing tip for UK members and others that can see the programme
: Top Gear. This week they test the Tornado 450 from Paramount
: Performance. The Tornado is a biturbo XJ6 putting out 450 HP.
:
: Reference http://www.jagweb.com/paramount
:
: Nick

Thanks for the URL… I went to it right away… the 450 was truly a thing
of beauty.

Tim Blystone
pcsolutions@mindspring.com
tlblystone@aol.com

“Newspaper taxis arrive at the shore, waiting to take you away,
climb in the back with your head in the clouds, and you’re gone”
Lennon & McCartney 1967

From: jagmag@ecn.net.au (Hughes Graphics and Design)
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 21:33:02 +1000
Subject: Thanks for Jaguar Lonline mention

Just a quick thank you to Charles Daly in Canada for the nice words about
our Jaguar Magazine Online home page, and the other Jag-Lovers subscribers
who have visited also.

If anyone wondered how popular Jag-Lovers is I can report that we have had
around 300 people have a look at our site in the last two days as a result
of publishing the address here!

If anyone else would like to know our address it is

http://www.firehorse.com/jaguar

Thanks for the help Nick, you are running a fabulous service which must be
the envy of followers of other marques.

Regards

LES. HUGHES

From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 06:23:51 -0600
Subject: Links

This may be old news to some of you…

http://www.thoroughbred.com
http://www.jaguarvehicles.com

Tim Blystone
pcsolutions@mindspring.com
tlblystone@aol.com

“Newspaper taxis arrive at the shore, waiting to take you away,
climb in the back with your head in the clouds, and you’re gone”
Lennon & McCartney 1967

From: Bert.Willing@lc.dmx.epfl.ch (Bert Willing)
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 13:06:39 +0100
Subject: 84 XJ6 amount of final gear noise

Hi there,

there’s something which doesn’t stop to puzzle me: How much noise should a=
final gear drive make?
My Jag is my first car which is driven by the rear wheels, so I don’t have=
any idea.
During constant speed cruise up to 60 - 70 mph, the final gear drive is=
definitly the most important source of noise (as long as nobody tells the=
a/c to lower the temperature by 10 deg C). At higher speeds, the=
aerodynamics “blows” in and I can hear the engine sing (which on no account=
can be treated as noise …)
Oil level in the final gear drive is ok - I also thought about rear wheel=
bearings, but the Jag mechanic told me 1- that there is no unusual noise 2-=
that the bearings are fine. How much movement may I allow on the wheel if I=
try to tilt the rear wheel by hand? I can feel some, but maybe I should=
measure it.

Other question: After letting the cat (130.000 km) sit for several days on=
the parking lot, what do I see on the floor? Nothing! Not a single drop …=
Is this a Jag or is it a faked cat? …

Ciao

Bert

Bert Willing '84 XJ6 4.2L
Laboratoire de Ceramique - Departement des Materiaux
Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (EPFL), MX-Ecublens, CH-1015 Lausanne
=46one : (+41 21) 693 29 44
Phax : 58 10
email: Bert.Willing@lc.dmx.epfl.ch

------------------------- Eudora 2.1.1 ------------------------------

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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 14 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 521

Re: XJ-S Fusebox Cover
Re: bicycle haters
Re: bicycling Jag-lovers
Re: 1988 XJ40: Your ABS Problem
Re: bicycle haters
Lawrence Buja, Re: On bicycles (was Winter and other miseries)
Re: XJ-S Book
Re: bicycle haters
Re: XJS running temperatures
Re: XJ-S GM400 fluid change and dropped filter
Re: bicycle haters
Re: 84 XJ6 amount of final gear noise
Alternatives to Mark 2 SU Carbs
Re: god help my starter?
Re: XJ-S GM400 fluid change and dropped filter
Re: Re[2]: Fuel economy
Re: XJS Surging
Re: Re[2]: Fuel economy

From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 06:31:39 -0600
Subject: Re: XJ-S Fusebox Cover

: From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
: To: palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu Cc: jag-lovers@sn.no
: Subject: Re: XJ-S Fusebox Cover

: > A question for the XJ-S owners: Does the fusebox for the headlights,
: > at the left side of the engine compartment, have a cover?

: My car ('88 XJ-S V12 UK spec) has two boxes on the left valance, both
: have lids. One semi-transparent white, one black.
: Perhaps your earlier car doesn’t have those lids so that moisture can
: reach the contacts more quickly and help corrode them earlier, thereby
: achieving Lucas’s design goal of making you buy another one. Regards,
: Stefan Schulz
: jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk

LOL… here in the US we regard Lucas as the prince of darkness. Drive a
lucas equipped vehicle at night. It becomes clear.

There is as you might imagine a lot of Lucas jokes/pokes going around. My
fave…

The only thing electrical Lucas built that didn’t suck was a vacuum
cleaner.

Tim Blystone
pcsolutions@mindspring.com
tlblystone@aol.com

“Newspaper taxis arrive at the shore, waiting to take you away,
climb in the back with your head in the clouds, and you’re gone”
Lennon & McCartney 1967

From: Mark Stiles ittmjs@staffs.ac.uk
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 12:25:31 +0100
Subject: Re: bicycle haters

I couldn’t agree more with Davids comments. The most common
afflicition here is:

“The Attack of the Healthy Cyclist”

These are usually men in their 30s and 40s wearing Lycra outfits.
They behave as if any motor vehicle is an affront to their rights and
sensibilities. They particularly like cycling two or three abreast at
fairly high speed creating a mobile road-block which on urban roads is
a hazard to overtake. I would have more sympathy if cyclists
contributed by paying road tax with the rest of us, and if they were
required to have insurance!

Mark
90 Daimler 4.0
Stafford
UK

From: “Claus, Mike” claus@wg.com
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 96 07:30:27 EST
Subject: Re: bicycling Jag-lovers

    Gee Jim - Why don't you tell us what you really think.
    
    I'm not willing to waste the list's bandwidth to discuss this 
    here with you - other than to state
    
    YOU ARE WRONG.
    
    If you would like to discuss privately - feel free.
    
    - mclaus

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: bicycling Jag-lovers
Author: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell) at WG-RAL-SMTP
Date: 11/13/96 6:29 PM

I happen to be a bicycling hater.

In our town we have a group of people who, “In order to draw attention to
ourselves” monthly stage a traffic slowdown by driving 100 or so bicycles
through rush hour trafic with police escort.

I wouold like to know how they get permission to run red lights and get
piloce escort to help them break the law.

They only succeed it infuriating the motoring public and gain no sympathy.

I realise that in some countries the bicycle is viable transportation. In
this country it is NOT. Most people commute 30 miles or more and not
withstanding weather, there is still the 50 year old grandmother who could
not stand the gaff. True, a few people live close enough to their jobs,
and a few others are young enough to take advantage of it as transportation,
but in general it is a TOY and belongs off the highways.

Any attempt to claim it is transportation and not a toy allows the argument
that a skate board is transportation. They should be outlawed from any
motorway where they cannot maintain the posted speed limit. They should be
outlawed at night without lights. The riders should all be shot.

My E-Type intake is just the right size to swallow one of those skinny
bicyclists buts.

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 06:48:47 -0600
Subject: Re: 1988 XJ40: Your ABS Problem

: From:E2plus2@aol.comTo:rodfarmer100646.664@CompuServe.COM
: Cc: jag-lovers@sn.no Subject: 1988 XJ40: Your ABS Problem

: Date: Wednesday, November 13, 1996 8:11 AM
: Asked the local Jaguar Shop to evaluate but not fix until I knew what the
$$
: damages were. The verdict was they wanted tons of money to replace the
: sensors. Being mechanically “competent” and knowing that I could buy the
: sensors for much less at Special Interest Car Parts (SICP), I removed the
: sensors and found them to have rust particles and grease on them.
Cleaned
: them off and reinstalled and have had no problems with that system in the
: last 23K miles. One Note: The fasteners on the rear sensors broke off in
the
: hubs. Used two-part epoxy to put them back.
:
: Ok, Ok, lets hear it from the professional Jaguar wrench twirlers!!!

Professional wrench twirler:

I love it, more of my customers should be as enterprising as you are. That
would leave me to fiddle with the things I like most, overhauling
differentials, transmissions and engines, and using the welder oh god yes I
love to weld. I really do dislike using things like glue, epoxy and
paperclips. I might have just lied… I do like the paperclip approach

: Regards. Rex Henderson (e2plus2@aol.com)
: 94 XJS, 88 XJ40, 87 XJ6, 72 E-Type

: (Yes, I know, I’m a glutton for punishment)

I don’t think that… no… not at all… actually I may be green about it.

How does that go? “Thou shalt not covet thy neighbors wife… errr… car”

Tim Blystone
pcsolutions@mindspring.com
tlblystone@aol.com

“Newspaper taxis arrive at the shore, waiting to take you away,
climb in the back with your head in the clouds, and you’re gone”
Lennon & McCartney 1967

From: Bert.Willing@lc.dmx.epfl.ch (Bert Willing)
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 13:34:33 +0100
Subject: Re: bicycle haters

Hi,

I’m afraid I’m on Jim’s side here…

In London bicyclists are a complete pain in the arse. Every year local=
newspapers and=20
radio stations have surveys/phone-in’s about what people hate most about=
driving in=20
London and the answer is always the same…Bloody bicyclists!!
<snip very unrelevant stuff …>

Hehe,

I do use my bike for transportation (that exist here in Europe!) and for=
fun. If being transported by my bike, I want to move AND I don’t want to be=
scratched by these darned Jag-drivers … :-)=20
So, being the weaker one, I run red lights, use pedestrian crossings -=
anything which helps to avoid collisions with those E-type inlets.
However, I always try not to slow down others, rarely use the left lane on=
highways and so on - live and let live. And, here in Switzerland, you’ve=
got to have a third party insurance for your bike which I think is quite=
good. Helps me to pay all those dogs and pussycats I like to scratch if=
they come into my way *-)
AND, after riding my bike for fun up a montain - E-types are really a pain=
while rushing down the windy road: Those four wheel things are not able to=
corner AT ALL! They just block the road.

Well, to be honest, while driving my cat, I find bicylists very suspect …

Ciao

Bert

Bert Willing '84 XJ6 4.2L
Laboratoire de Ceramique - Departement des Materiaux
Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (EPFL), MX-Ecublens, CH-1015 Lausanne
=46one : (+41 21) 693 29 44
Phax : 58 10
email: Bert.Willing@lc.dmx.epfl.ch

------------------------- Eudora 2.1.1 ------------------------------

From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 07:01:44 -0600
Subject: Lawrence Buja, Re: On bicycles (was Winter and other miseries)

: From: Lawrence Buja southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU
: To: british-cars@autox.team.net
: Cc: Jaguar Mailing list jag-lovers@sn.no
: Subject: On bicycles (was Winter and other miseries)
: Date: Tuesday, November 12, 1996 12:44 PM
:
: Once upon a time I had a good friend named Rick.

snip…

: finally gave out entirely and he passed on beyond the pain.

: I now have Rick’s cool job.

snip…

: coyote families yapping and playing in the tree-line, the afternoon

snip…

: The few days when I drive my Jaguar to work, Rick’s ghost always sits
: quietly and comfortably in the plush passenger seat next to me. twists.

snip…

: Rick’s ghost really likes it too.

snip…

: Rick’s ghost usually tags along, riding there right beside me.
: He likes it best when I just spin up the hill, slow and steady.

snip…

: But, I’ve found that if I get up out of the saddle and push it hard,
: I can drop that pale ghost. If I keep on working harder, I can pull
: away, temporarily leaving him and his buddy, Death, far, far behind me.

LOL

whoooooaahhhh… you scare me Lawrence…

LOL

Tim Blystone
pcsolutions@mindspring.com
tlblystone@aol.com

“Newspaper taxis arrive at the shore, waiting to take you away,
climb in the back with your head in the clouds, and you’re gone”
Lennon & McCartney 1967

From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 07:08:23 -0600
Subject: Re: XJ-S Book

: From: Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR mfl@kheops.cray.com
: To: pcsolutions pcsolutions@mindspring.com
: Subject: Re: XJ-S Book
: Date: Thursday, November 14, 1996 6:40 AM
:
: But I was told that this is normal. I’ve a list of all cars and trucks
: the GM400 is in, and it’s quite impressing. Rolls Royce also uses it…

would you be so kind as to send the list? I would be interested in seeing
it.

Tim Blystone
pcsolutions@mindspring.com
tlblystone@aol.com

“Newspaper taxis arrive at the shore, waiting to take you away,
climb in the back with your head in the clouds, and you’re gone”
Lennon & McCartney 1967

From: “Claus, Mike” claus@wg.com
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 96 07:54:31 EST
Subject: Re: bicycle haters

    David 
    
    Then you are wrong too.
    
    If you wish to discuss, do it privately so as not to waste 
    valuable Jaguar bandwidth.
    
    - mclaus

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: bicycle haters
Author: brownd@filon.ml.com (Dave Brown - London Dev X1818) at WG-RAL-SMTP
Date: 11/14/96 9:15 AM

Hi,

I’m afraid I’m on Jim’s side here…

From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 07:34:23 -0600
Subject: Re: XJS running temperatures

: From: Scott Stewart scstewart@cmsd.bc.ca
: To: jag-lovers@sn.no
: Subject: Re: XJS running temperatures
: Date: Wednesday, November 13, 1996 10:26 AM

: If you want to check the effectiveness of your thermostats, suspend them
in
: water, without touching the bottom of the pan, until boiling.
Observation
: of degree of closing and opening should be apparent

Yes that works, however if a thermostat is even in question I would chunk
the sucker in the garbage. For the $3.95 a new thermostat costs its just
plain silly to reinstall a part that I may have a question about. Not to
mention that if I went to the trouble to remove it…

It seems there are more threads on this subject… while a cooling system
is no less important than a fuel system or even the wiring to the “brain”
it is without a doubt infinitely easier to resolve problems in this area.

As one point of interest… have you ever tried cleaning a cooling system
with plain ole ordinary dish washing liquid-soap? You’ll be amazed at what
surfaces. Especially in a cast iorn block engine. Hell to get it back out
though I do not recommend it unless you are willing to spend the time
to get it back out, as it completely removes the lubricant from the cooling
system that the anti-freeze provides and could cause premature failure of
the pump. I heard about it and tried it on a 76 pontiac GP I owned. The
pump was already in need of replaceing, so I was willing to experiment…
some of the calcified deposits in the radiator remained but it turned clear
water to brown rust laden mud as it loosened the rust scale in the block…
she ran cool as a cucumber after that. I replaced the pump the thermostat
and that nasty little seal between the timing cover and the intake. All of
which were needed before I got adventurous.

Tim Blystone
pcsolutions@mindspring.com
tlblystone@aol.com

“Newspaper taxis arrive at the shore, waiting to take you away,
climb in the back with your head in the clouds, and you’re gone”
Lennon & McCartney 1967

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 08:18:55 -0005
Subject: Re: XJ-S GM400 fluid change and dropped filter

Aaron Burnett:

a three inch plastic feeder tube that is inserted into a rubber
grommet at the top/front of the filter on one end and the valve
body on the other.

Goodness! Is it really three inches in diameter? I didn’t know it
was that big.

Most important – On my car, the retaining bolt used did not have
threads for the first 3/8" after the head. In others words (because I’m
not doing a very good job of describing this), the bolt could not be
turned all the way into the body of the transmission – the head was
left 3/8" from flush.

Now this brings up MANY questions. Was the wrong bolt used? Or was
there a spacer of some form missing? It’d be really nice to know if
it was the original intention for this to be a rigid mount, or if
there was supposed to be a rubber grommet of some form around that
bolt.

P.S. Although they are reputed to be of dubious quality and longevity,
the transmission mount on my car, which must be removed to work on the
tranny, was in excellent condition.

Question: Was the rubber spool in the center made of solid rubber or
foam?

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 14:18:07 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: bicycle haters

“The Attack of the Healthy Cyclist”

These are usually men in their 30s and 40s wearing Lycra outfits.
They behave as if any motor vehicle is an affront to their rights and
sensibilities. They particularly like cycling two or three abreast at
fairly high speed creating a mobile road-block which on urban roads is
a hazard to overtake. I would have more sympathy if cyclists
contributed by paying road tax with the rest of us, and if they were
required to have insurance!

Well, just drive through the environment of Paris on a Sunday morning.
It’s a horror, cycles everywhere. three in a row ? we have seen 5. Changing
directions without giving notice etc.

I do ride bicycle also, but big surprise, I can do this alone ! Well,
I don’t have this Lycra outfit in pink though.

- Matthias

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 14:40:29 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: 84 XJ6 amount of final gear noise

there’s something which doesn’t stop to puzzle me: How much noise should a=
final gear drive make?
My Jag is my first car which is driven by the rear wheels, so I don’t have=
any idea.
During constant speed cruise up to 60 - 70 mph, the final gear drive is=
definitly the most important source of noise (as long as nobody tells the=
a/c to lower the temperature by 10 deg C). At higher speeds, the=
aerodynamics “blows” in and I can hear the engine sing (which on no account=
can be treated as noise …)
Oil level in the final gear drive is ok - I also thought about rear wheel=
bearings, but the Jag mechanic told me 1- that there is no unusual noise 2-=
that the bearings are fine. How much movement may I allow on the wheel if I=
try to tilt the rear wheel by hand? I can feel some, but maybe I should=
measure it.

When we got our XJ-S our final drive unit was also making noise. After a
year I forked out 800 pounds to get the rear-end rebuilt. (inclduding brakes
etc). I can tell you, there should be NO NOISE from the diff. Our cat
had been transformed into an absolute silk power glider since this has been
fixed. The problem was the inner race (in the final drive) on the
drive-shaft.

You might however try to change your oil in the diff. At least on the XJ-S
you need a special kind of oil, which was not very easy to find here in France.

Other question: After letting the cat (130.000 km) sit for several days on=
the parking lot, what do I see on the floor? Nothing! Not a single drop …=
Is this a Jag or is it a faked cat? …

This certainly is an error

- Matthias

From: “The Honjos” fm7m-hnjy@asahi-net.or.jp
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 22:49:41 +0900
Subject: Alternatives to Mark 2 SU Carbs

Have participants in this mailing list tried carbs other than the HD6
(the original) on their Mark 2s? I understand the HIS44 carb fits
right in. What improvements do you get with them? Are there other
carbs that can be adapted (without too much machining) onto the XK
engine, and what have the results been?

Regards

Makoto Honjo
Phone/Fax +81-3-3473-1848

From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 08:06:36 -0600
Subject: Re: god help my starter?

: From: Kevin P. Campbell kckckc@qni.com
: To: jag-lovers@sn.no Subject: god help my starter?
: Date: Wednesday, November 13, 1996 9:28 PM

: Anyone have any solution to a starter engagement that sounds as if I’m
: trying to start an engine that is already running?

yes. replace the starter. or have the one you have rebuilt and replace
that.

: The neighbors think that I’ve lost my mind… children cry…
: old folk JUMP and I crindge each and every time I turn the
: key. It may not happen for 15 starts, but then I may have a
: run of this horrifying bombastic god awful unnerving grinding
: and grating of good metal for a couple of attempts per start
: for days before it ceases again. Jag owners are already nervous
: fatalists on the verge without the added thrill of this metallic
: symphony to put us right over the proverbial edge.!
: Kevin Campbell 85 XJ-6 kckckc@qni.com

I’m going to add to that nervousness. Every time you hear the metallic
symphony, guess what… you’re right!!! metal IS being ground away right
before your very ears and from your very flywheel. Keep starting the engine
with the starter you now have and you will almost certainly need to replace
the flywheel. Not Good.

Replacing the starter will set you back a few bucks but nothing like
replacing the flywheel. BTW the flywheel is sometimes called the flex
plate.

Good luck.

Tim Blystone
pcsolutions@mindspring.com
tlblystone@aol.com

“Newspaper taxis arrive at the shore, waiting to take you away,
climb in the back with your head in the clouds, and you’re gone”
Lennon & McCartney 1967

From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 08:15:57 -0600
Subject: Re: XJ-S GM400 fluid change and dropped filter

: From: Victor Naumann jagdoc@erols.com
: To: Aaron Burnett aaron.burnett@attws.com
: Cc: ‘jag-lovers@sn.no’
: Subject: Re: XJ-S GM400 fluid change and dropped filter
: Date: Wednesday, November 13, 1996 8:04 PM

: That bolt is shouldered for a reason,it is supposed to let the filter
: move. If the filter is changed every 30 K miles and a new O-ring is
: installed, the filter will not drop. I have never seen a GM filter come
: down out of the valve body but anything is possible. I also have never
: heard anyone recommend F fluid in a GM box. It will be interesting to
: see how it holds up. Please keep us informed.
: Thanks , Vic

The F-Type fluid is somewhat thinner and is supposed to allow the tranny to
shift faster and more positively. It does no harm and neither have I ever
been able to see any good it does either. I would rather use Dexron 3,
remove the pump and replace the pump pressure spring with a new red spring.
Used in corvettes. This will raise line pressure and make the whole thing
shift more positive. I’m not opposed to a few valve body mods either. A
mushy shift is not my idea of a properly functioning tranny. My idea of a
good shifting tranny is hell on u-joints.

Tim Blystone
pcsolutions@mindspring.com
tlblystone@aol.com

“Newspaper taxis arrive at the shore, waiting to take you away,
climb in the back with your head in the clouds, and you’re gone”
Lennon & McCartney 1967

From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 08:20:22 -0600
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Fuel economy

: From: Mike Cogswell M.Cogswell@zds.com
: Cc: jag-lovers@sn.no Subject: Re[2]: Fuel economy
: Date: Wednesday, November 13, 1996 9:17 PM
:
: Every vehicle I own has increased fuel consumption in the colder
: months. The difference, however, is not related to the temperature.
: It is because I live in an area (Northern Virginia) where “oxygenated”
: fuel is sold from November through February. When they switch over,
: my consumption changes by nearly 10%. MikeC

I would be interested in hearing about oxygenated fuel. What is done to the
fuel. What are the benefits and drawbacks.

Tim Blystone
pcsolutions@mindspring.com
tlblystone@aol.com

“Newspaper taxis arrive at the shore, waiting to take you away,
climb in the back with your head in the clouds, and you’re gone”
Lennon & McCartney 1967

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 09:03:57 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJS Surging

Earl: To your emissions mechanic BULL SHIT,in fact DOUBLE BULL SHIT to
him.
Tell me where the surges occures, ie off idle,mid range,just where???
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044
PS GET YOURSELF A NEW MECHANIC,
On Wed, 13 Nov 1996, Earl D Huff wrote:

I continue to have problems with my 85 XJS surging twice a second from time to
time. The latest suggested “cure” for the problem came today from an emissions
mechanic sho says the problem stems from an accumulation of carbon on the intake
valves. He seems quite certain that the problem can be easily cleared up by
using GM Top End Cleaner (whatever that is). Doe this make ANY sense?

Earl Huff
85 XJS
53 XK 120

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 09:07:25 -0005
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Fuel economy

 Every vehicle I own has increased fuel consumption in the colder 
 months.  The difference, however, is not related to the temperature.  
 It is because I live in an area (Northern Virginia) where "oxygenated" 
 fuel is sold from November through February.  When they switch over, 
 my consumption changes by nearly 10%.

This was discussed on the HONDA-L list, except that the issue was the
California oxygenated fuels, and the consumption increased by more
like 50%!

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #521

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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 15 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 522

Re: Air Conditioning - noise -XJ40 -1988
Re: All jags came from Brown’s Lane
Bike hating, rider shooting, regulation making jag lovers
Jim’s Reg. numbers
FW: XJ-S GM400 fluid change and dropped filter
RE: XJ-S GM400 fluid change and dropped filter
Engine Stand
FS: Engine & Tranny
Re: Rear wheel play what is acceptable…
V12 temperatures
MKII Dash
RE: god help my starter?
Lump etymology
Tranny Mount
Re: oxygenated fuel
Jag Leaping Cats
XK Engine builder
Re: FS: Engine & Tranny
Re: Tranny Mount
RE: god help my starter?
Re: Jag Leaping Cats
Re: XJS Surging
Decipher a paint number and tire blemishes
Re: Tranny Mount
Re: Shakey Rear view Mirror…

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 09:07:25 -0005
Subject: Re: Air Conditioning - noise -XJ40 -1988

: The air con radiator has been replaced and the system re-gased
: - this work was done by a 'fridge engineer. The system works fine,
: however there is a ‘hissing’ noise which comes and goes when the
: system is cooling.

It has been my (rather limited) experience that hissing in an A/C
system is the result of an expansion valve that isn’t working quite
right. It still works well enough to cool, though. A really good
A/C tech can verify this by what the pressures do. If you have the
system discharged for some other reason, probably a good idea to
change it out (they’re not expensive), but it’s probably not worth it
to do so just for the hissing.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: “Nuno Abreu” nunoabreu@hotmail.com
Date: 14 Nov 1996 14:46:57 -0000
Subject: Re: All jags came from Brown’s Lane

Hi, I’m new to the group and have a '71 XJ6 S1

Welcome to the group !
Nice Cars !

Nuno Abreu

'70 XJ6 S1 MOD (Midnight Blue)

Get Your Web-Based Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

From: Steve Draper s_draper@wcsr.com
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 09:52:02 -0500
Subject: Bike hating, rider shooting, regulation making jag lovers

        (no jag content)

Jim Isbell wrote:

“They should be outlawed from any motorway where they cannot
maintain the posted speed limit. They should be outlawed at night
without lights. The riders should all be shot.”

Jim, if bicycles are outlawed, then only outlaws will have bicycles!
Also, shooting the riders could expose them to dangerous levels of lead,
which is a violation of federal law. I guess we should let 'em live.

A moral for jag-lovin’ fire breathers:
After eatin’ an entire bull, a mountain lion felt so good he started roarin’.
He kept it up until a hunter came along and shot him. The Moral: when
you’re full of bull, keep your mouth shut.

(I read that somewhere)

–Steve
'88 xj-s
'89 xj40vdp
e-mail at:
s_draper@wcsr.com

From: Adam Clark aclark@internal.brann.co.uk
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 96 15:07:00 G
Subject: Jim’s Reg. numbers

Alas, I don’t believe you are sitting on a gold mine Jim.

Correct me if I’m wrong fellow Britishers, but I think that the UK
vehicle licensing authority would have been informed of any exports
and/or changes of ownership, so if the cars left the country the plate
numbers will have been re-issued. If the numbers were ‘interesting’,
someone has probably already paid a lot of dosh for them.

(We used to play a game in my family whilst on the road which involved
inventing word combinations appropriate to the kind of people we saw with
expensive initialed plates. Thus some geezer who drives around with BFS 1
on his bumper obviously wants to communicate the missive ‘Bald Fat Sod
1’. I haven’t come up with anything for XK8 yet).

Hope this answers your query. Sorry about the puerile bit.

Adam Clark

From: Aaron Burnett aaron.burnett@attws.com
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 07:39:23 -0800
Subject: FW: XJ-S GM400 fluid change and dropped filter

Several points of clarification:

The three inch feeder tube referenced in my description was three inches
in LENGTH and about one inch in diameter.

According to Victor Naumann, the filter mounting bolt is intentionally
shouldered “to allow the filter to move”. Though I cannot imagine what
advantage this might give and can easily imagine several significant
disadvantages.

The rubber spool at the center of my transmission mount was made of a
foam-like substance – not solid rubber.

Aaron
'85 XJ-S

From: Kirbert[SMTP:palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu]
Sent: Thursday, November 14, 1996 12:23 AM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Re: XJ-S GM400 fluid change and dropped filter

Aaron Burnett:

a three inch plastic feeder tube that is inserted into a rubber
grommet at the top/front of the filter on one end and the valve
body on the other.

Goodness! Is it really three inches in diameter? I didn’t know it
was that big.

Most important – On my car, the retaining bolt used did not have
threads for the first 3/8" after the head. In others words (because I’m
not doing a very good job of describing this), the bolt could not be
turned all the way into the body of the transmission – the head was
left 3/8" from flush.

Now this brings up MANY questions. Was the wrong bolt used? Or was
there a spacer of some form missing? It’d be really nice to know if
it was the original intention for this to be a rigid mount, or if
there was supposed to be a rubber grommet of some form around that
bolt.

P.S. Although they are reputed to be of dubious quality and longevity,
the transmission mount on my car, which must be removed to work on the
tranny, was in excellent condition.

Question: Was the rubber spool in the center made of solid rubber or
foam?

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: Aaron Burnett aaron.burnett@attws.com
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 07:46:10 -0800
Subject: RE: XJ-S GM400 fluid change and dropped filter

You are the second respondent to tell me the bolt was purposely
shouldered. I can understand that the bolt was shouldered to allow the
filter to hang lower in the pan, what I don’t agree with is just
allowing it to flop around down there. That makes no sense!

By backing the filter with the combination of rubber and metal washers I
mentioned in my account, I have preserved the relative position of the
filter and provided a more certain mount. Can anyone see any
disadvantage to this?

Aaron
'85 XJ-S

From: Randy Wilson[SMTP:randy@taylor.infi.net]
Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 1996 9:37 PM
To: jag
Subject: Re: XJ-S GM400 fluid change and dropped filter

I don’t know if the situation I encountered is typical or simply another
bonus provided by the incompetent mechanic used by the PO (you know, the
one who forgot to install one of the thermostats). Anyway, hope the
information helps someone.

That bolt is shouldered for a reason, though I can not tell you exactly why.
All GM trannys of that general era use a floating filter that sort of lays
in the bottom of the pan. At least the 400 has a positive bolt. Others
use a cheesy spring clip.

Aaron
'85 XJ-S

P.S. Although they are reputed to be of dubious quality and longevity,
the transmission mount on my car, which must be removed to work on the
tranny, was in excellent condition. I simply had to clean and
re-assemble.

There are three failure points on the tranny mount. The center damper, the
spring, and assembly. The spring is checked by measuring it’s free length
while out of the car. The other two can be checked by doing a “shock bounce”
test. Grab the back of the tranny and get it moving up and down. Now let
go. If it continues to bounce, even one full cycle, then either the damper
is shot, or the mount has been assembled wrong. Usually it’s both.

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

From: Ed Scripps 73200.2362@CompuServe.COM
Date: 14 Nov 96 11:06:20 EST
Subject: Engine Stand

When winter finally sets in I’m going to pull the engine out of my '66 ‘E’ to
try and stem the flow of oil from various places.

Will a standard(lump) engine stand work for the 4.2’s?

Thanks,

-Ed-

From: Doug Heinen povtybay@wolfenet.com
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 08:20:01 +0930
Subject: FS: Engine & Tranny

Found in Tacoma, WA newspaper:

`84 JAG 6 cyl. fuel injection engine with trans. Complete. $1250/ofr.
848-7507

Please note this is NOT my equipment, I’m only posting the info.

doug heinen

From: theo bremner tbremner@lynx.dac.neu.edu
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 11:19:07 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Rear wheel play what is acceptable…

Hi,

After adjusting the suroof in my new Jag yesterday I decided I

would check the rear for anything suspicious or out of whack. I jacked
the car up and applied the E brake and there was a little play in the
driver’s side wheel but not enough to measure you could only hear it a
bit the other side was fine none at all what is allowable and what isn’t
with this? Should there be some play or no?

Thanks
Theo
85 Sov SIII
tbremner@lynx.neu.edu

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 11:03:04 -0600 (CST)
Subject: V12 temperatures

I think your car WAS ok before. Mine runs just below the “N” and up into
the “N” when pushed. I have JUST rodded the radiator put in new thermostats
and a new water pump, so I think mine must be OK. I believe that different
guages read differently, but the change in yours indicates a change in the
cooling.

Check:

leaves and junk between the radiator and the AC condenser. (FREE)
Filler caps working properly (engine cap seals, no release)(header cap
releases at pressure)
Thermostats ($5 each X 2 = $10) (always replace both at once)
Radiator. ($100 to rod it out if you carry it in)
Water pump ($90 to $250 depending on where you get it)

If you do them in taht order you will save money. The water pump is easier
to remove if the radiator is out. These prices all assume your labor is free.

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: TCFallers@aol.com
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 12:19:57 -0500
Subject: MKII Dash

In refinishing my MKII dash, I’ve noticed that there are threaded posts on
the inside of the drivers side dash. They are located on either side of the
arch through which the steering column passes. They imply the existence of a
piece that would span the bottom of the arch, below the steering column. XK’s
has no listing and Jag Heaven a dry tap also. Any suggestions?
Rich Faller

From: “Lauren E. Pratt” pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 96 11:15:19 PST
Subject: RE: god help my starter?

Kevin

Some times the starter spring and gear can get oily and
pick up dirt that makes the engagement sluggish. Is it worse
at cooler temperatures. Remove the starter and clean the spring
and sliding gear and see if this clears the problem. You might
be able to use a spray degreaser through an inspection hole.

Hope this helps

Cheers Lauren

Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 11/14/96
Time: 11:15:19 AM

This message was sent by Chameleon

From: danlb@mindspring.com (Daniel Bowdoin)
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 12:58:18 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Lump etymology

Idle curiosity . . . .

From where does the term “lump” actually derive, when used in the context
in which it’s usually used around here? How old an expression is it? Who
used it first and why?

Daniel Bowdoin
64 E-type FHC
94 Corvette LT1 coupe
a foot in both camps

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 14:04:13 -0005
Subject: Tranny Mount

Kirbert:

Question: Was the rubber spool in the center made of solid rubber or
foam?
Aaron Burnett:
The rubber spool at the center of my transmission mount was made of a
foam-like substance – not solid rubber.

I believe this may be a first. I, for one, have neither seen nor
heard of one of the original foam items being found intact.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: jgardner@rmii.com (John Gardner)
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 96 12:07 MST
Subject: Re: oxygenated fuel

From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 08:20:22 -0600
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Fuel economy

: It is because I live in an area (Northern Virginia) where “oxygenated”
: fuel is sold from November through February. When they switch over,
: my consumption changes by nearly 10%. MikeC

I would be interested in hearing about oxygenated fuel. What is done to the
fuel. What are the benefits and drawbacks.

I would certainly like to hear about this one. In my Audi I don’t have any
big problems other than fuel economy and hard starting.

Last night I just filled up my E-type with oxygenated (ethanol added) fuel.
I hated to do it since I don’t know what the ethanol is going to do to the
fuel system. I can take a 20 minute drive into the mountains and get to an
area that can sell normal gasoline, but this isn’t always an option when you
start running low.

Regards,

John Gardner
62 E-type OTS
84 Audi 4000 Quatrro

From: Rolph Muller rolph@globalvt.demon.co.uk
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 13:03:29 +0000
Subject: Jag Leaping Cats

There is apparently a guy in Sarasota, Florida who makes leaping cats
for the XJS. If he’s out there or if anyone has a fax no. for him please
let me know.
Regards

Rolph Muller

From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 15:35:19 -0500
Subject: XK Engine builder

Has anyone had any direct experience with Bud Zuber? He is a Jag engine
builder in Arizona. One of the guys on the list tipped me off to him. I spoke
with him on the phone - seems very enthusiastic about high performance Jag
motors, both V-12 and 6s. I had never heard of him before, but I guess he was
big into racing Jags in the west. His prices seemed good compared to GTJ.
I am doing a little last minute checking around for other builders before I
send my E-type head off to Gran Turismo. Tonight I attempt to remove the head -
oh joy :-/
Thanx.

Mark McChesney
'65 Etype ots

From: Cindys4u@aol.com
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 15:46:02 -0500
Subject: Re: FS: Engine & Tranny

please see mypost @ Jaguars/Daimler used patrs exchange. as we have a '77 4.2
engine/trans 350.00 complete, 79 4.2 eng trans complete.

From: hdrsons@iamerica.net (Hal Rogers)
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 18:02:09 -0700
Subject: Re: Tranny Mount

At 02:04 PM 11/14/96 -0005, palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu wrote:

Kirbert:

Question: Was the rubber spool in the center made of solid rubber or
foam?
Aaron Burnett:
The rubber spool at the center of my transmission mount was made of a
foam-like substance – not solid rubber.

I believe this may be a first. I, for one, have neither seen nor
heard of one of the original foam items being found intact.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

Yes, that foam mount (Jag number CAC3227) was not a long lasting product!
The upgrade replacements are a much better choice.

Regards,
Hal

Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
Import Auto Specialists
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax

Serving Auto Enthusiasts since 1959

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 18:09:48 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: god help my starter?

Lauren: You are working on the old style starter,NO SUCH THING ON THE
NEW cars.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044On
Thu, 14 Nov 1996, Lauren E. Pratt wrote:

Kevin

Some times the starter spring and gear can get oily and
pick up dirt that makes the engagement sluggish. Is it worse
at cooler temperatures. Remove the starter and clean the spring
and sliding gear and see if this clears the problem. You might
be able to use a spray degreaser through an inspection hole.

Hope this helps

Cheers Lauren

Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 11/14/96
Time: 11:15:19 AM

This message was sent by Chameleon

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 18:11:22 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Jag Leaping Cats

Rolph: You can get a cat most anywhere for the XJ-S, no big deal.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044On
Thu, 14 Nov 1996, Rolph Muller wrote:

There is apparently a guy in Sarasota, Florida who makes leaping cats
for the XJS. If he’s out there or if anyone has a fax no. for him please
let me know.
Regards

Rolph Muller

From: ehuff@tuba.aix.calpoly.edu (Earl D Huff)
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 15:26:43 -0800
Subject: Re: XJS Surging

Chad:

Your response to my emissions mechanic was about the same as mine. However, I
thought I would be worth asking the group.

You ask “where the surges occur.” Unfortunately, they seem to occur whenever
they damn well please. Sometimes at idle the tach will fluctuate around 300 rpm
whenever the car is in closed loop. (It evens out whenever shifted to P.)
It also sometimes begins surging about 2 minutes after starting cold. Occasionally, it surges when simply driving around town or at freeway speed. I have
tried to find some correlation between the surging and some other factor. The
best I can say is that it is MUCH more likely to surge during cool weather than
during hot weather. Also, it is more likely to surge immediately after being
driven and parked for a short period.

FWIW I’v changed the air and coolant sensors, plug wires, plugs,distributor cap,
Oxygen sensors, thermostats, carbon cannister and I’ve checked the throttle pot.

One thing I noticed today when I had the left air cleaner off was that their
was a lot of oily residue that apparently entered via the hose from the
auxiliary air valve. Can that be related?

Earl Huff
85 XJS
53 XK 120

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 17:21:47 -0600
Subject: Decipher a paint number and tire blemishes

I dug deep into the trunk (boot) of my newly aquired XJ-S. Left front tire
developed “bumps”. That is to say two bumps about the size and shape of
fried eggs (sunny side up) apeared on the wall near the rim (Perilli P5’s).
So I had to remove the spare and put it on to stop the shaking.

Under the spare I found a can of “Jaguar Touch In Enamel” that looks like
the same color as the car. It is hardened, perhaps from the temperatures in
a Texas car trunk, and some of the paint came out and obscured the number on
the can. I would like to replace the can with a fresh one, kept in the
garage of course, but dont know if I have enough numbers to identify it.

The number is “BLVC 396 (big splotch) M ACR 33933” Is this enough to
identify the color? Yes, I know, “look at the car, idiot.” I did, its silver.

Also, does anyone know if the “fried eggs” on the side of my tire represent
a danger to use as a spare? Will it deflate suddenly, or slowly?

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 18:38:26 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Tranny Mount

Kirby: Are you still looking for a 400+ cuin V-12, maybe even a 454 cuin???
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: theo bremner tbremner@lynx.dac.neu.edu
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 18:57:55 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Shakey Rear view Mirror…

Hi there,

I recently really for the first time took my new jaguar for a

long ride (more than the three miles to get it home originally). It
seems there is something out of whack with it. The rear view mirror
shakes and the cars behind are barely visible. Is this because the
drive shaft (main) is out of balance. I don’t really feel the car
shaking anywhere else except that I can see it in the mirror and only at
about 30-40 Mph. Anyone seen this problem before I would love to hear
about it.

Regards
Theo
85 Sov SIII
tbremner@lynx.neu.edu

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #522

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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 15 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 523

Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #518
Re: Service interval counter
Re: help with a chevy sb 350
Lucas jokes
Engine Stand for E engine
Etiquite on the internet
Re: Engine Stand
“bike haters comments” and splitting the list…
Re: Engine Stand
Bicycles
RE: help with a chevy sb 350
New A-M DB9 with a V12?
Re: Veneer refinishing
Re: XJ6 - SIII - Power Steering Noise
Re: Alternatives to Mark 2 SU Carbs
Re: Lucas jokes
RE: Decipher a paint number and tire blemishes

From: Luis Magdaleno lm@bheaven.com
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 16:33:18 -0800
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #518

I have been following the postings for a while now and am uncertain how
to enter the discussion. Any guidance here would be appreciated.

My S3 '82 XJ6 greeted me this morning with a “clunk” as I shifted into
reverse. It has intermittently “clunked” as I shifted from forward
drive to reverse and vice versa. I assume my transmission is the
culprit. Visions of dollars flying out of my pocket so fast that pieces
of underwear are attached is the first image I see.

Any insights on what I may be looking at would be appreciated. Though I
am reasonably adept at working on my car, I have zip experience working
on transmissions.

Regards to all from Southern California,

Luis

Luis Magdaleno, Attorney at Law
Gatekeeper to BUYERS’ HEAVEN http://www.bheaven.com/bheaven/
If you appreciate BARGAINS or are a merchant looking for SALES.
FREE WANT ADS for consumers, 100s of buyers for merchants.

From: Victor Naumann jagdoc@erols.com
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 20:27:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Service interval counter

Kevin P. Campbell wrote:

Gents,
I’m aware that the service interval counter is located in the
boot…but Where? (Federal model)

Replaced the O2 sensor and need to extinguish the darn light.

Kev
85 XJ-6

kckckc@qni.com
Remove the two black plastic screws holding the carpet panel to the
front wall of the trunk, reset button is on the left support,facing up
in a small black box. Press and listen for a click,you are reset.
Vic

From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 20:30:49 -0600
Subject: Re: help with a chevy sb 350

: From: Vlad Zavadsky zavadsky@austin.ibm.com
: To: pcsolutions@mindspring.com; tlblystone@aol.com
: Subject: help with a chevy sb 350
: Date: Thursday, November 14, 1996 10:13 AM

: Tim, I wonder if you could help me.

sure

: I have an 85 XJS with a 350 in it.

kuel

: Some time next year I would like to rebuild the engine
: (it’s starting to knock, and burns a little bit of oil).

the oil is not the problem the knocking is, are you sure it’s a bottom end
knock? or is it possibly valvetrain noise? A rod that is banging is not
going to live very long.

: I would like to get something that will last me for about
: 150,000 - 200,000 miles with little or no problems. I am
: not a mechanic by trade (I work for IBM), but I did keep
: my 85 Cutlass (307 V8) running until I bought the jag.

getting the engine to last is not a problem. Your maintenance will be a
huge factor. I can recommend, or I can build, but you must keep it humming.

: I would like to stay in the ‘around $4,000’ range. From my
: understanding early 70’s 4 bolt main block is a good place
: to start.

Yup… thats a good place to start. a better place to start is a mid
eighties and up 4 bolt block with a full circle rear main that installs
from the rear of the block and not inside the rear main cap. The block
itself is made from a different composition than the early small blocks…
it has more nickle and is alot tougher. The bore won’t wear nearly as
quickly and develop that nice ridge. Especially since I’m going to
recommend low tension cast iorn rings with a moly face. A thing you might
want to take note of is that air filtration is of the utmost importance on
an engine that you care to have live with some of the parts we’ll be using.
especially the moly rings. I don’t care how you do it just make sure the
engine gets plenty of fresh filtered air.

: Even though I do not plan to tow anything, steel crank still
: might be a good idea.

Yes thats a good idea, however it’s going to be hard to come by when you
start buying pieces and have a $4000 budget. A new crank with rods from a
supplier here in Tennessee can run as high as $2500… but that is some of
the toughest rods around, and a bullet proof crank. If you order custom
pistons and have the rings stacked as close to the top as possible then the
crankshaft supplier can custom grind the rods and provide the longest
possible rod. A good alternative for the street driven engine is a cast
crank with hardened and chromed journals. The stroke in a 350 ci chevy is
3.48 if you go with a steel crank we can change this. A 383ci engine comes
to mind. 4.030 bore and 3.75 inch stroke. A 400ci block is out. Siamesed
cylinder walls with NO coolant passage between the bores. Develops way to
much heat for what we are doing.

: Double roller timing chain should hold up for a very long time…

Longer than the standard fare from the local parts house. A gear drive is
nice but they are hard on the distributor gear, and whine like hades. A
belt drive is nice too, and expensive and I’m not sure just how durable
that setup is. Double true roller chain it is. There is a big difference
between a “double row” chain and a “true roller” They look esentially the
same, a true roller has rollers that contact the sprockets, a double row
has the round part that contacts the sprockets pressed into place. Be sure
to get a timing set that allows for advancing or retarding the cam by 3 or
so degrees. You will more than likely need that feature when the cam is
“degreed in”

: but that’s about as far as I got. While looking at cams, lifters,
: valves, etc. I got confused about interconnectivity, quality, and
: general speck of the parts. Is better to by a kit, or should I
: assemble the kit part by part. Should I stick to a certain
: company, or are all of them more or less the same.

generally speaking kits take the hassels out of the whole affair. Mixing
pieces is ok too but certain choices mean you must follow through with
other chioces. More on this later

: is there any way to tell if a machine shop did a good job
: reboring the block.

Yes. If you see them using a boring tool that bolts to the deck. run. if
they use a Sunnen CK-10 or the equivalent - smile. A 500+ grit finish is
the absolute minimum I would accept. More later.

: What should be an acceptable limit on the crank
: (10, 20, 30 under)

If the crank had it’s journals reground more than once I wouldn’t use it.
hard to tell from a mere inspection… as a rule of thumb if the crank has

-0.030 journals I would assume it had been wiped more than once. Wouldn’t
use it.

: I know that’s a lot of questions, but any help would be
: appreciated. Vlad

yes but nothing like the questions I’m going to ask you…

how extensive was the conversion? was a 350 turbo or a 400 turbo installed?

Do you know the stall speed of the torque converter you now have? are you
planning to buy one with a higher stall speed? Is it a box stock GM
converter or maybe a Daaco replacement? The stall speed is very important
when selecting a cam and considering how you would like the car to “launch”

Is fuel economy an important consideration? or is power?

Are you planning on running headers?

What type of fuel delivery system do you now employ. carb? retro GM tuned
port? throttle body? Is there an engine management computer now in place
and being used?

what type of ignition system is now in place?

do you have any idea of the compression ratio you’d like to end up with?

Are you planning to assemble the finished pieces yourself or would you like
to just drop in an engine that is already built?

Is this going to be a grocery getter, or a weekend pavement pounder?

Do you plan on using the heads you now have? or would you consider an
aftermarket head like the Dart II head? Are aluminum heads on your list?

As we discuss this, I’m more than sure questions will come up as we go
along. I’m willing to help but I need some specific answers so I can make
some specific recomendations. As a side note I recently purchased a 1969
Chevrolet Caprice. It is the exact same as the one I first drove when I was
16 and getting some serious teenage needs met. I bought the car because it
is comfortable, clean and BIG. It has a 300hp 350 ci, the engine has 144k
original miles and the original points distributor. It makes 0% engine
noise - no knocking, no valvetrain noise and burns about 1/4 quart between
changes. Leaks 0% from the rear main and gets around 15mpg. Just to see if
I was in for some engine work I ran it HARD for the first couple of weeks
and it NEVER complained. Who says chevy engines are crap? come on… lemme
at’em…

Be forewarned I love to build engines. It’s just got to be the coolest
thrill there is when you see and hear the fruits of your efforts… not to
mention the thrill of a speedy little back roads blast. The satisfaction of
doing it yourself is well worth the effort. Just like writing a couple
hundred thousand lines of code and watching your creation light up the CRT.

Tim.

Tim Blystone
pcsolutions@mindspring.com
tlblystone@aol.com

“Newspaper taxis arrive at the shore, waiting to take you away,
climb in the back with your head in the clouds, and you’re gone”
Lennon & McCartney 1967

From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 03:22:29 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Lucas jokes

On Thu, 14 Nov 1996, pcsolutions wrote:

LOL… here in the US we regard Lucas as the prince of darkness. Drive a
lucas equipped vehicle at night. It becomes clear.

Pardon my ignorance, but what does “LOL” mean?

There is as you might imagine a lot of Lucas jokes/pokes going around. My
fave…

The only thing electrical Lucas built that didn’t suck was a vacuum
cleaner.

And then there’s the age-old one:

Q: Why do the British drink luke-warm beer?
A: They all have Lucas refrigerators.

Gunnar

From: George Cohn gwcohn@azstarnet.com
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 19:48:06 -0800
Subject: Engine Stand for E engine

Ed, probably depends on the engine stand but my '70 OTS engine is
currently resting on a stand I got about ten years ago that has
adjustable arms to fit the bell housing bolt holes. You may have to
remove the flywheel to have enough clearnace. I originally paid $39.95
for my stand but they’re most likely closer to $60 - 70 now.

George Cohn
'70 OTS
http://www.azstarnet.com/~gwcohn/xkelover.htm

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 1996 21:02:55 -0600
Subject: Etiquite on the internet

Someone, and I have a good idea who because of his comments on my bicycle
post, committed a breach of netiquite by posting my message several other
places without my consent. This is not kosher.

However if your attempt was to cause me trouble, it hasn’t. It has only
reinforced by beliefs in that two of the three (yes only 3)responses from
non Jag-Lovers were threats from people who were obviously short in the
upstairs and not coincidentaly, I think, also cyclists. BTW, I am also a
cyclist, but not short upstairs.

Of the many responses I have recieved, a solid 4 out of 5 agree with me.
The Jag lovers who have responded, except for one, were very cordial and
those who disagreed did so in a civilised way.

If cyclists would work on their immage instead to threatening eveyone who
disagrees with them they might further their cause. I, for one, until they
clean up their act, am lobying at the state level to have them banned from
all but residential streets.

This is enough bandwidth on this subject, I only mentioned it because of the
Netiquite breach by one of “our own”.

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: ffilangeri@juno.com (Frank A Filangeri)
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 21:18:19 EST
Subject: Re: Engine Stand

Hi Ed,

When I pulled my 3.8 motor the I used a standard “lump” engine stand with
the base in the shape of a “T” with 3 casters, one at each extreme of the
T. All was fine until I tried to roll the engine over with the head
attached. At about 30 degrees the top heavy motor started to pull the
engine stand over sideways! After an OH Shit!! and 3 Hail Marys we were
able to get the thing righted without it going over completely. Upon
removing the head I could carefully roll it over without lifting a
caster. If this is the type of stand you have TAKE OFF THE HEAD FIRST.
If you are going to buy a stand, get the type with TWO legs extending
under the engine and 4 casters. Probably still a good idea to pull the
head first.

Good Luck,

Frank
66 E OTS
On 14 Nov 96 11:06:20 EST Ed Scripps 73200.2362@CompuServe.COM writes: When winter finally sets in I’m going to pull the engine out of my '66 ‘E’ to try and stem the flow of oil from various places. Will a standard(lump) engine stand work for the 4.2’s? Thanks, Ed- From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik) Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 20:18:20 -0700 Subject: “bike haters comments” and splitting the list… Hi all, After rezding the six-hundred and fifty fifth posting about “bike riders/haters/etc”… splitting the list is beginnig to sound… not so bad… Rob W-M 85 XJ-S From: Kroppe kroppe@mich.com Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 22:56:21 -0500 Subject: Re: Engine Stand Ed Scripps 73200.2362@CompuServe.COM asked: Will a standard(lump) engine stand work for the 4.2’s? Yes. My 4.2 was attached to a generic engine stand for a while. You will either need a lot of large washers to simulate the transmission bell housing flange, or use shorter bolts to hold the engine to the stand. The stock bolts are long and are not threaded their entire length. B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6 From: “Daniel S. Hayes” dsh12@ix.netcom.com Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 23:04:41 -0500 Subject: Bicycles Even though I LIKE bikes and ride [a $1000] one often, I understand Jim frustrations. I am very aware when I ride, staying glued to the white line when I must ride on a busy narrow rode and waving drivers on when I obtain an advantage at the crest of a hill. So it really irritates me when I see some day dreamer biking in traffic (not just for the drivers, but the safety of the biker). It REALLY pi#$es me off when I see an arrogant, inconsiderate biker…what a butt head. One mistake and he’s road pizza. In traffic, 95% of the drivers let control the situation – I direct traffic from my bike. So I don’t play around and always thank the attentive driver. About 3% of the drivers mistakenly ignore my presence on the road and ONLY 2% are flaming A-holes. When they intentionally cut me off, I make sure to wack the side of their car with my fist…but the majority of drivers act very responsibly with bikers. I must admit the percentages are lower on the flip side. …once a month, hu Jim. Where do you live Jim. Ya know, you might consider a little more patients…their are groups (Envira-Nazis) and individuals that are just as frustrated with old, polluting, gas-guzzling Jags. Later, '64 Series I 3.8 E-Type Coupe Daniel S. Hayes 2200 Wilson Blvd., #102-226 Arlington, VA 22201 dsh12@ix.netcom.com 301-248-6901 H 703-###-#### W From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 05:09:35 +0100 Subject: RE: help with a chevy sb 350 Tim, You build engines and program? Now that’s “kuel”! However, a chebby small-block in an XJS is heresy and should be discouraged. Don’t get me wrong, building a sb is a lot of fun, it’s just that it doesn’t belong in a Jaguar. Gunnar (putting on his asbestos suit. Is there a diplomat in the house?) Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar Sovereign 4.2 gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | '73 Mercedes 280 (240D) From: pcsolutions[SMTP:pcsolutions@mindspring.com] Sent: 15. november 1996 03:30 To: zavadsky@austin.ibm.com Cc: jag-lovers@sn.no Subject: Re: help with a chevy sb 350 … Be forewarned I love to build engines. It’s just got to be the coolest thrill there is when you see and hear the fruits of your efforts… not to mention the thrill of a speedy little back roads blast. The satisfaction of doing it yourself is well worth the effort. Just like writing a couple hundred thousand lines of code and watching your creation light up the CRT. Tim. From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 05:53:45 +0100 Subject: New A-M DB9 with a V12? Just read a rumor in a Norwegian magazine (Bil 11/96) about Aston Martin: They’re planning a new DB9 2+2 to replace the Virage and Volante. The new car will get a V12 engine which is simply two Ford Duratec V6 engines spliced together. The V12 will have a displacement of around 5 litres and yield some 440 horsepower. The engine will be mated to a six speed sequential (what is that?) manual transmission and the car should be able to reach 100 km/h (62 mph) in less than 5 seconds and reach a top speed of 300 km/h (190 mph). The car will of course be available as both a coupe and a convertible. The accompanying illustration by Mark Stehrenberger looks bloody awful, sharp edges everywhere. You can find the article on the web at: http://www.bilinfo.no/bil/bil1196/bilnytt/bilnytt.html (Note: All the text is in Norwegian, but the Stehrenberger illustration is there so you can see what I mean) Anyone know if this rumor is based in fact? Tez?? Maybe we’ll see this engine in a Jaguar some day? I hope so, even if it is a Ford derivative. Gunnar Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar Sovereign 4.2 gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | '73 Mercedes 280 (240D) From: John Toyofuku toyofuku@slip.net Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 02:06:36 -0800 Subject: Re: Veneer refinishing Since I’ve begun the daunting task of refinishing the wood on my recently acquired '65 3.8 ‘S’, I’ve been doing a bit of research and found a pretty good book on wood finishes by Michael Dresdner. It explains the various types of finishes available and their characteristics. The book is not about car interiors at all but the explanations of the various finishes is very good. He has a comparison chart which I made a brief extract of below. If anyone wants a copy of this chart, send me your fax number and I’ll fax it. He broke finishes into the 3 types of application, brush on, wipe on and spray. All finishes fit in two types, evaporative and reactive. Evaporative (cures by evaporation) essentially can be dissolved by a second coat as opposed to reactive (changes chemically) which will not. This means they have to be treated differently on successive coats and on how careful you have to be on application. For those of you partial to the antique look of wood, one point he makes is that the polyurethanes are either clear or give a slight bluish cast to the wood while the varnish, shellac and lacquers all have an amber cast which gives wood that rich look. Brushables Shellac = Evaporative, alcohol based, brittle, low durability, high stain resistance, poor heat resistance, moderate moisture resistance, excellent adhesion, easy to use, excellent clarity. Lacquer = Evaporative, lacquer thinner based, brittle, moderate durability, high stain resistance, poor heat resistance, moderate moisture resistance, excellent adhesion, easy to use, excellent clarity. Polyurethane = Reactive, mineral spirits based, flexible, durable, high stain resistance, moderate heat resistance, excellent moisture resistance, good adhesion, moderately easy to use, moderate clarity Varnish = Reactive, mineral spirits based, flexible, moderate durability, moderate stain resistance, low heat resistance, good moisture resistance, good adhesion, moderately easy to use, excellent clarity. Spar Varnish = Reactive, mineral spirits based, Excellent flexibility, moderate durability, moderate stain resistance, moderate heat resistance, excellent moisture resistance, good adhesion, moderately easy to use, moderate clarity Wipe on Shellac = Evaporative, alcohol based, brittle, poor durability, low stain resistance, poor heat resistance, poor moisture resistance, excellent adhesion, excellent ease of use, excellent clarity. Danish Oil = Reactive, mineral spirits based, very flexible, poor durability, poor stain resistance, poor heat resistance, poor moisture resistance, excellent adhesion, excellent ease of use, excellent clarity. Linseed Oil = Reactive, mineral spirits based, very flexible, poor durability, poor stain resistance, poor heat resistance, poor moisture resistance, excellent adhesion, excellent ease of use, excellent clarity. Tung Oil = Reactive, mineral spirits based, very flexible, poor durability, low stain resistance, poor heat resistance, poor moisture resistance, excellent adhesion, excellent ease of use, excellent clarity. Sprayable Shellac = Evaporative, alcohol based, brittle, low durability, high stain resistance, poor heat resistance, moderate moisture resistance, excellent adhesion, very easy to use, excellent clarity. Nitrocellulose Lacquer = Evaporative, lacquer thinner based, very brittle, moderate durability, high stain resistance, poor heat resistance, moderate moisture resistance, excellent adhesion, very easy to use, excellent clarity. CAB Lacquer = Evaporative, lacquer thinner based, moderately flexible, very durable, high stain resistance, poor heat resistance, high moisture resistance, excellent adhesion, very easy to use, good clarity. Waterbased Polyurethane = Evaporative, Water based, flexible, moderately durable, low stain resistance, moderate heat resistance, low moisture resistance, low adhesion, poor ease of use, poor clarity. By the way, I’ve still not made up my mind yet on what I’ll be using but I’m leaning toward the Lacquer. Hope this helps. John Toyofuku '65 3.8 ‘S’ Type From: “Sherman” jimsherman@earthlink.net Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 15:23:52 -0600 Subject: Re: XJ6 - SIII - Power Steering Noise I had this problem. Simply tightened the belt driving the power steering pump and fixed it right up! From: “B. Askew” askewb@global.co.za Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 07:38:01 -0200 (GMT) Subject: Re: Alternatives to Mark 2 SU Carbs Dear Makoto Have participants in this mailing list tried carbs other than the HD6 (the original) on their Mark 2s? I have put HD8s - from a 420, so valid period mod! - on my 3.8. Combined with Iskenderian cams, a slightly skimmed head and straight through exhaust it makes a responsive, if slighly noisy Mk II. The mods needed for the 2" carbs are to relieve the inlet manifold to fit, to modify the throttle linkage slightly and either to put a 420 air cleaner or pancake air cleaners. Good luck Brian. From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 00:28:45 -0600 Subject: Re: Lucas jokes : From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no : To: pcsolutions pcsolutions@mindspring.com : Cc: Jag-Lovers@sn.no Subject: Lucas jokes : Date: Thursday, November 14, 1996 8:22 PM : Pardon my ignorance, but what does “LOL” mean? Laughing Out Loud : And then there’s the age-old one: : : Q: Why do the British drink luke-warm beer? : A: They all have Lucas refrigerators. Thats a good one. I will have to remember that one… _____________________________________________________ Tim Blystone pcsolutions@mindspring.com tlblystone@aol.com _____________________________________________________ “Newspaper taxis arrive at the shore, waiting to take you away, climb in the back with your head in the clouds, and you’re gone” Lennon & McCartney 1967 _____________________________________________________ From: Mike Everatt meveratt@Direct.CA Date: Thu, 14 Nov 1996 22:18:49 -0800 Subject: RE: Decipher a paint number and tire blemishes They weren’t Pirellis from Costco, were they? Made in South America?? = Yes, the bumps are quite dangerous. Check if you still have a tire = warranty. Mike Everatt 1987 XJ40 with MICHELINS (no more Pirellis for me…) From: James A. Isbell[SMTP:JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu] Sent: Thursday, November 14, 1996 3:21 PM To: jag-lovers@sn.no Subject: Decipher a paint number and tire blemishes I dug deep into the trunk (boot) of my newly aquired XJ-S. Left front = tire developed “bumps”. That is to say two bumps about the size and shape of fried eggs (sunny side up) apeared on the wall near the rim (Perilli = P5’s). So I had to remove the spare and put it on to stop the shaking. =20 Under the spare I found a can of “Jaguar Touch In Enamel” that looks = like the same color as the car. It is hardened, perhaps from the = temperatures in a Texas car trunk, and some of the paint came out and obscured the = number on the can. I would like to replace the can with a fresh one, kept in the garage of course, but dont know if I have enough numbers to identify it. The number is “BLVC 396 (big splotch) M ACR 33933” Is this enough to identify the color? Yes, I know, “look at the car, idiot.” I did, its = silver. Also, does anyone know if the “fried eggs” on the side of my tire = represent a danger to use as a spare? Will it deflate suddenly, or slowly? Jim “Better an outlaw than not free.” Nance O’Neil =20 End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #523 ******************************** Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4) id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Fri, 15 Nov 1996 17:03:02 +0100 (MET) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 17:03:02 +0100 (MET) Message-Id: 199611151603.RAA15814@ekeberg.sn.no From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #524 Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Precedence: bulk X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest jag-lovers-digest Friday, 15 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 524 Re: Bicycles Re: XJ-S Purging air from heater core Re: XJS running temperatures re: Shakey rear view mirror Re: Repost due to overwhleming lack of response - 1983 XJ6 S3 4.2 Cold start advice wanted. RE: help with a chevy sb 350 Re: XJS Surging Bike Haters Re: Bicycle haters. [Admin] Bicycle thread is hereby closed Bicycle haters Re: Decipher a paint number and tire blemishes Re: clunk in revers/forward Re: help with a chevy sb 350 Re: Bicycle haters Re: Etiquite on the internet Re: help with a chevy sb 350 sequential shifter Chassis shakes/ driveshaft balance Re: Decipher a paint number and tire blemishes From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 00:40:53 -0600 Subject: Re: Bicycles : From: Daniel S. Hayes dsh12@ix.netcom.com : To: jag-lovers@sn.no Subject: Bicycles : Date: Thursday, November 14, 1996 10:04 PM : of the biker). It REALLY pi#$es me off when I see an arrogant, : inconsiderate biker…what a butt head. : One mistake and he’s road pizza. Now there is a pretty sight Biker road kill… hmm… since some nice fellow decided he liked my Cannondale… I don’t ride anymore, and my portly figure tells the same story. My main concern was the F$%K^%G dogs that were not happy to remain in their own yards and just bark. : When they intentionally cut me off, I make sure to : wack the side of their car with my fist… OUCH! I bet that makes an instant impression _____________________________________________________ Tim Blystone pcsolutions@mindspring.com tlblystone@aol.com _____________________________________________________ “Newspaper taxis arrive at the shore, waiting to take you away, climb in the back with your head in the clouds, and you’re gone” Lennon & McCartney 1967 _____________________________________________________ From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au Date: 15 Nov 96 15:33:10 Subject: Re: XJ-S Purging air from heater core AFAIK, the method is to set the climate control to Defrost and run the engine as you top up the coolant. Jan From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au Date: 15 Nov 96 16:18:43 Subject: Re: XJS running temperatures Ivan : More so than other engines the oil cooled portion of the load is a higher fraction. * Sorry, no. The V12 oil cooler is distinctly puny and is often not operating when the engine is hot, as it gets oil flow only when oil pressure is high enough to open the relief valve. With a reasonably worn V12 this means no oil cooling under 2,000 rpm when hot. The … thermal element in the fan hub … acts to release the clutch when the temp is cold in order to decrease the airflow through the radiator. When this element gets hotter the visous clutch engages and allows the fan to spin faster. * And how do propose that this device senses the engine temperature? Through the drive shaft? The viscous coupling just slips to deliver a fairly constant torque, merely to prevent excessive fan noise and power consumption at high revs. Nothing thermostatic about it, except a small compensation (bimetal spring) so it doesn’t slip too much when the silicon fluid in it becomes too hot (also the reason why it has such a lot of fins on the housing). Simple test: spin the fan by hand when the engine is cold, then do the same just after a trip. Do switch off the engine first… :3+) Jan From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com Date: Thu, 14 Nov 96 23:19:00 PST Subject: re: Shakey rear view mirror Theo, My '84 XJ6 VDP has always had a shakiness to it. I removed the mirror to see if I could tighten things up. I packed some stiff rubber in the mount to eliminate all remaining play in the mounting, which helped but did not eliminate the problem. To remove the mirror, grasp the metal mounting piece, and yank it downwards sharply. Do it slowly and you’ll just bend the metal in the roof (like I did initially) without removing the mirror. No place for being timid here. When the mirror is out, you’ll understand why it shakes - it’s a heavy weight on a small mount, thus there is a lot of ‘sprung’ mass. It will indeed respond to any body vibrations, which you may not notice while sitting in the comfy leather seat. David '84 XJ6 VDP '70 E 2+2 Subject: Re: Shakey Rear view Mirror… snip- The rear view mirror shakes and the cars behind are barely visible. Regards Theo 85 Sov SIII From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au Date: 15 Nov 96 16:04:44 Subject: Re: Repost due to overwhleming lack of response - 1983 XJ6 S3 4.2 Cold start advice wanted. roly @ redac.co.uk (Roly Alcock) 14/11/96 00:52 To: jag-lovers @ sn.no @ Internet cc: Subject: Repost due to overwhleming lack of response - 1983 XJ6 S3 4.2 Cold start advice wanted. Perhaps I am using the wrong soap, or have not got my charisma switched on the only response I had from the first post was from Nick and that was tongue in cheek! * Lotus Notes - now with Smell-O-Rama! Seriously, I’m not that well up on S3 sixes, but I’ll have a stab, anyway as the symptoms seem clear. I am reluctant to fiddle with the bits that are already working… * Sound policy So now that traditional November weather has reached the UK, (frozen mist and all that) I find that the XJ6 is not as willing to start as it was last winter. * Greetings from Sunny Sydney, 33 deg C yesterday and rising… It will start, but only after ~8 revoltions of the engine. Battery is new and in good condition. Should I be fiddling around in the air flow meter to check the fuel pump contact ( Ref Michael Neal’s technical advice pages ) is there more than one switch in the meter, if so which one should I be checking and how. * sorry, don’t know heem. How can I really check that I am getting the correct ballasted voltage during cranking. ( with the ignition switched on and engine not started, I was unable to measure and significant voltage between either + or - and ground, so I assume that other electrickery controls are at work here). * Your coil (+) terminal should read about 6V to ground during cranking. That’s with no ballast in the circuit; the ballast only comes in after cranking as the coil is designed for 6V and needs help with the full supply voltage. Simple test: put a substantial crocodile-clip lead on battery (+) and touch it to the coil (+) during cranking; if this gives you instant starting, you need to check the ballast resistor bypass - most probably a connector fault, but it could be a faulty ignition switch. Does oil pressure have any bearing on fuel supply? I believe some cars cut the fuel supply if the oil pressure fails, therefore there must be some override to this at cranking time, and the number of revolutions turned before the car willingly starts may have a bearing on this. * Definitely not in this case - thank goodness. Finally, the factory loomed wiring to the coil bears no resemblence to the schematic wiring diagram. My coil has three wires on the + side and 2 on the - side. Any comments. * Hey, this is Lucas… The (+) side should be ballast resistor bypass (cranking only), normal ignition through ballast resistor and rev-counter. The two on (-) mystify me, as one should be the ignition amplifier output (if you still have Lucas Opus ignition). But don’t take my word for it, I’m a V12 man. Is there anything else that I should consider? * It’s just possible that the ignition amplifier is “sick” and doesn’t work properly during cranking… Measure the voltage on the (-) coil terminal during cranking (with battery (+) connected to the (+) terminal). You should get pulsations between 0 (closed points equivalent) and 6V (open points equivalent). If you have something other than Opus ignition, forget I said anything… P.S. I had a begging letter from Ghana today, apparently the student who wrote
it read my name in a Jaguar magazine. Anybody elese had one?
I am sure it is the people who do NOT own Jaguars are the ones who have some
cash left over for good causes.

I’ve had some due to exposure as computer magazine editor. Fret not; this is
not a good cause, nor a student - unless “con-games 101” is an accredited
course. It’s something of a national sport in some African countries.

- Jan

From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 09:46:10 +0100
Subject: RE: help with a chevy sb 350

Tim,

The suit and the diplomat might be needed if my comments should rekindle
the lumpist vs. purist wars (here’s hoping they don’t).

As to building an XK engine or a V12 I heartily agree, that would be
serious fun! I imagine the 4.2 six should be able to put out some
300-350hp without loosing driveability, the V12 maybe 400-450hp.

My 4.2 XK engine has some 110,000 miles on the clock and is still
running beautifully so I won’t even think about modifying it (“if it
ain’t broke, don’t fix it”). When the day comes that it needs an
overhaul I’ll probably look into modifying it. I’ve been thinking that a
long-stroke engine like the 4.2 XK would be ideal for supercharging or
turbocharging, any comments from the experts on this list about this?

Gunnar

From: pcsolutions[SMTP:pcsolutions@mindspring.com]
Sent: 15. november 1996 08:16
To: Gunnar Helliesen
Subject: Re: help with a chevy sb 350

One thing I have to
begin looking into is putting more ponies into a 6cyl or 12cyl Every time
I read a post from Chad Bolles and he offers to build a 454ci V-12 it
really does get me curious. I wonder if it’s an inside joke or can the
venerable V-12 really be stroked and bored to deliver another 128 cubic
inches. I am sorely lacking in that area. I wonder can anyone recommend
some good reading material?

: Gunnar (putting on his asbestos suit. Is there a diplomat in the house?)

Now what would you need with those two hard to deal with items?

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 10:13:14 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: XJS Surging

You ask “where the surges occur.” Unfortunately, they seem to occur whenever
they damn well please. Sometimes at idle the tach will fluctuate around 300 rpm
whenever the car is in closed loop. (It evens out whenever shifted to P.)
It also sometimes begins surging about 2 minutes after starting cold. Occasionally, it surges when simply driving around town or at freeway speed. I have
tried to find some correlation between the surging and some other factor. The
best I can say is that it is MUCH more likely to surge during cool weather than
during hot weather. Also, it is more likely to surge immediately after being
driven and parked for a short period.

FWIW I’v changed the air and coolant sensors, plug wires, plugs,distributor cap,
Oxygen sensors, thermostats, carbon cannister and I’ve checked the throttle pot.

I just read about this last night, and one of my books said it might be
a problem how your throttle is adjusted, e.g. it should have the required
clearance and idle adjusted through the aux air valve, otherwise surging
might occure.

- Matthias

From: Tom Higgins tomh@mailserver.ipelond.co.uk
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 10:00:13 +0000
Subject: Bike Haters

My greatest friend was killed this year on her bicycle. She was run over by
a car jumping the lights, and turning a corner. I find the bike-hater
comments stupid, insensitive and nothing to do with Jaguars anyway. For some
time on this list there has been a majority of stupid and non-interesting
rubbish.

I think that the time has come for me to remove myself from the list,
because of this last outrage. I joined the list in the hope of interesting
discussions about Jags, which does happen sometimes, but not enought.

Goodbye

Tom Higgins

From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 10:21:52 -0800
Subject: Re: Bicycle haters.

OK, I’ll enter the soap box…

No David, it’s not particular for London. It’s the same everywhere, even in a
small town like Haugesund (pop. 30000, 100K counting the surrounding vicinities)
the bicyclists in general with very few exeptions ride their bikes in traffic
like they were immortal.

I think what they need is a small reminder every now and then. Let them know
that the car (you or me) nearing the pedestrian crossing is not going to stop
unless the bicyclist stand beside his bicycle clearly indicating that he intends
to walk across. I’ve had a couple of bicyclists actually riding into my car
(G-Wagen; wouldn’t expose the Jaguar to such a treat) and then shooting off
their mouths as if it was me who’d run into them, only to be told that when
riding a bike, they’re actually in the same category roaduser as me driving my
car. The problem is that so many car drivers just let them carry on because they
wrongfully consider the bicyclist to be a pedestrian because they’re not
protected inside the shell of a car. I never get so mad as when the driver in
front of me hits the brake and stops in panic just to let some bicyclist ride
across the street!

Bicyclists certainly know how to exploit this. I told you earlier about my trip
to Finland. My wife and I both sing in a choir and were making this trip with a
bus load of choristers. On our way back, we had just crossed over into Norway
and were cruising slowly through a small town, I was standing in the aisle in
the back (like I had done most of the trip), coffee, white wine in tall glass,
beer and camera laying on the picnic(?) table. Suddenly a bloody bicyclist shot
out of nowhere and crossed over right in front of the bus which had to stop dead
not to get his blood all over the front. I fell over of course, hurting like
hell, and you can imagine the mess it made of my beverages.

All right, now everyone can tell me to stay in my seat next time, not drink on
the bus and so on.

Next please!

Bard

______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no

From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 11:26:42 +0100
Subject: [Admin] Bicycle thread is hereby closed

Ok guys, enough is enough. If you want to talk bicycles go find a bicycle or
i-hate-cyclists list. Lawrence inadvertantly got the thread going with one
of his excellent pieces. Lawrences piece was well-written, interesting and
food for thought. The following discussion not so.

Anything relating to bicycles is now a non-topic. Comprende?

Nick

From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 11:32:17 -0800
Subject: Bicycle haters

To Mike Claus

I’ve noted your postings claiming we bicycle haters are wrong and invitation to
discuss the topic privatly.

I’m a firm believer that most of us know why you think so, but I think many
other B.H.'ers will want to hear it, so please spill your guts or we’re going to
waste bandwidth prompting you /:-E.

Maybe we should split the list Yeah! Bicycle-loving Jag-lovers and
Jag-bicycling love-haters and Love-bicycling Hate-jaggers and, and…

Hang loose, guys
Bard

______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no

From: “Claus, Mike” claus@wg.com
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 96 07:28:57 EST
Subject: Re: Decipher a paint number and tire blemishes

    Jim -
    
    Look on your ID label inside the driver's side door.  It will 
    give you the Jaguar paint code for your car.  Just go to the 
    dealer with that number and he will give you a can of paint.  
    No need to ID the old can.
    
    good luck
    
    - mclaus
    .
    .
    .
    .

Under the spare I found a can of “Jaguar Touch In Enamel” that looks like
the same color as the car. It is hardened, perhaps from the temperatures in
a Texas car trunk, and some of the paint came out and obscured the number on
the can. I would like to replace the can with a fresh one, kept in the
garage of course, but dont know if I have enough numbers to identify it.

From: Bob Wright rwright@netrover.com
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 08:01:27 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: clunk in revers/forward

Luis: I am new here too (unrestored XK 150 DHC) but it seems that the
simplest and cheapest is the first to look at. Check your universal joints
on the propshaft. Get underneath and twist the shaft and wiggle the joints.
(sounds like foreplay of some sort). Good luck … bob

I have been following the postings for a while now and am uncertain how
to enter the discussion. Any guidance here would be appreciated.

My S3 '82 XJ6 greeted me this morning with a “clunk” as I shifted into
reverse. It has intermittently “clunked” as I shifted from forward
drive to reverse and vice versa. I assume my transmission is the
culprit. Visions of dollars flying out of my pocket so fast that pieces
of underwear are attached is the first image I see.

Any insights on what I may be looking at would be appreciated. Though I
am reasonably adept at working on my car, I have zip experience working
on transmissions.

Regards to all from Southern California,

Luis

Luis Magdaleno, Attorney at Law

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 08:35:22 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: help with a chevy sb 350

Why waste your money on rebuilding your Chev engine. Just go to your
local Chev dealer,and for around $1500 you can buy a 4 bolt main engine
that has a 3 year warranty on it regardless of who installs it.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 08:47:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Bicycle haters

My last word on this; (honest…maybe)

Announcing Big Bike Protest Ralley!

So far 1500 cyclists have signed up.
600 Dykes on Bikes, also!

Time: This Saturday, 6AM
Place: Jim I’s, & Bard’s front lawn.
Be there!
Bonus points for extra loud horns.
Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
'62 E-Type, ots, flat floor.
Mountain Bike (armour plated)
-------------------------------------------------------------
“Laugh? I thought I’d die!”
A. Boleyn
-------------------------------------------------------------

From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 09:00:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Etiquite on the internet

Re: Jim’s post.

I thought that one of the main freedoms we in Canada
and the US proclaim the loudest to have is Freedom of Speech.
As (whoever it was) said, “I disagree with what you say, but defend
to the death, your right to say it.”
I usually find these kinds of threads informative and almost always
amusing which is why I respond, often, the way that I do. No, it’s
not hard to type with my tongue in my cheek, unlike whilst chewing
gum.
I ride a bike but also, often, curse cyclists for stupid antics, but not
for being! I curse other drivers more often. I curse myself seldom.
To agree/disagree with Jim/Bard/et al is my/your absolute right but
not to the point of insults or worse, cross-posting (if that’s what has
happened) to stir it up -kinda childish, no?
Jim, blast your horn at bad-driving cyclist!
But watch out for a red mountain bike…this one has a tail-gun in
the boot~!
Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
'62 E-Type, ots, flat floor.

    -------------------------------------------------------------
"Laugh? I thought I'd die!" 
		       A. Boleyn
    -------------------------------------------------------------

From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 08:22:05 -0600
Subject: Re: help with a chevy sb 350

: Why waste your money on rebuilding your Chev engine. Just go
to your
: local Chev dealer,and for around $1500 you can buy a 4 bolt
main engine
: that has a 3 year warranty on it regardless of who installs
it.
: Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA
803 798 3044

Very true, Chevrolet & GMC dealers have target engines for a
very reasonable price. Vlad never stated if he was interested in
performance or doing the job himself. I made the assumption
since he said he had some mechanical ability he was going to do
it himself. The $4000 budget made me think he wanted to put some
ponies into the engine. If he is interested in something with
more performance it seems a waste to purchase a crate engine
only to replace several new parts. Dart has some very good heads
and it would be a shame to spend money to replace the
lightwieght castings on a target engine for heads that deliver
better performance, next comes the valvetrain… the rods… the
crank…

Tim Blystone
pcsolutions@mindspring.com
tlblystone@aol.com

“Newspaper taxis arrive at the shore, waiting to take you away,
climb in the back with your head in the clouds, and you’re gone”
Lennon & McCartney 1967

From: Licensed jshuck25@mailhost.cinet.co.cn
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 17:37:10 ±800
Subject: sequential shifter

this shifts like a motorcycle…1-2-3-4-5-6.move the lever back…next =
higher gear. the lister race car has one, but it has the new =
Hewland…john shuck…beijing

From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 09:12:50 -0500
Subject: Chassis shakes/ driveshaft balance

Along the lines of the shaky rear view mirror:
My XJS sometimes shakes for unknown reasons. The body shakes slightly. It
is not the front end because I don’t feel it thru the steering wheel. It
doesn’t fel like it’s coming from the rear end either.
Does this indicate driveshaft imbalance?
Could it be a bad rear tranny mount causing vibration transfer to chassis?
It’s annoying because the car only has 32,000 miles.
Thanks
Julian Mullaney

From: LLoyd 3030P@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 96 07:54:47 PST
Subject: Re: Decipher a paint number and tire blemishes

Jim,
Tire blemish, patoot!
Dump the tire. it will explode (deflate rapidly). If you drive with it on
the car it will knock out your allignment and damage your shock absorbers.
LLoyd -been there, dun that when I was young, poor and jumb-

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #524

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jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 16 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 525

Re[2]: Tire blemishes
Re: Jaguar love.
Re: Personalised Numbers & exclusivity
GM Top engine cleaner
Re: help with a chevy sb 350
Re: Engine Stand for E engine
RE: building a nice Jaguar engine
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #523
Re: Chassis shakes/ driveshaft balance
re: engine stands
Re-post
re: engine stands
Re: engine stands
Stake-down kit for '84 XJ6
New XJS problems…
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #524
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #524
re: engine stands
OK, let’s split the list [was:Re[2]: bicycle haters]
Re[4]: Fuel economy
Re: Jag Leaping Cats
All Jaguars- removal of wheel weight adhesive pad

From: gljohn3@searle.monsanto.com
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 96 10:07:18 CST
Subject: Re[2]: Tire blemishes

Tires are a sensitive subject due to the potential risk. Please consider the
following nothing more than personal opinion.

I worked in tire manufacturing from 1970-1981, when steel radials established
the dominant position they still hold. Getting the rubber to adhere to the
steel wire was a problem that has long been overcome. Blistering (delaminations
or separations between plies) indicate contamination somewhere in the
manufacturing process; not good for a quality reputation.

However, Jim mentions use as a spare. Personally, I would not have a problem
with this, as during the run-to-failure tests delamination occurred long before
failure. Once it fails, however, it will deflate suddenly. I would keep speed
(and heat generation) down for the short time the spare is on the car.

I’m new to this group; looking forward to getting caught up.
Regards, Gordon
1967 E-Type Series 1.5

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RE: Decipher a paint number and tire blemishes
Author: Mike Everatt meveratt@Direct.CA at Internet
Date: 11/15/96 01:51 AM

They weren’t Pirellis from Costco, were they? Made in South America?? =
Yes, the bumps are quite dangerous. Check if you still have a tire =
warranty.

Mike Everatt
1987 XJ40 with MICHELINS (no more Pirellis for me…)

From: James A. Isbell[SMTP:JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu]
Sent: Thursday, November 14, 1996 3:21 PM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Decipher a paint number and tire blemishes

I dug deep into the trunk (boot) of my newly aquired XJ-S. Left front = tire
developed “bumps”. That is to say two bumps about the size and shape of fried
eggs (sunny side up) apeared on the wall near the rim (Perilli = P5’s).
So I had to remove the spare and put it on to stop the shaking. =20

Also, does anyone know if the “fried eggs” on the side of my tire = represent
a danger to use as a spare? Will it deflate suddenly, or slowly? –
Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil =20

From: “Terry Tegner” brewtec@global.co.za
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 18:19:10 +0200
Subject: Re: Jaguar love.

Hi all, just thought I’d share the following with you. Today I had to pull
over into the emergency lane on one of our freeways (South Africa) because
the chrome strip surrounding the widscreen decided to come loose. (XJ6 ser
2). That was the down side. I then had to join the traffic flow and when a
gap appeared I put foot on the gas pedal and before I knew it the speedo
was on 140 Kph and I was still in 2nd gear on my BW65 and accelarating
still when I decided to slack off. What a pleasure to hear that 4.2 engine
purr with satisfaction at being asked to do some work for a change. Ah but
life is great and this in a car that is nearly 20 years old.
Regards
Terence Tegner
PS. Dr Dave, this was near the Rivonia turnoff.

From: ifinlay@vossnet.co.uk (Ian Finlay)
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 16:26:33 GMT
Subject: Re: Personalised Numbers & exclusivity

Probably not. You need an MOT (“roadworthiness”) test on both the
source and destination vehicles.

Ian

On Nov 13, 1996 10:32:30, ‘JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)’ wrote:

I purchased aout 15 cars from england in the 70s and imported them into
the
US. Several had very interesting license plates so I am the last owner of

the cars which are now under US registration. I have saved the plates in
some cases. Though I no longer own the cars, I am still the last
registered
owner as far as English records go and the cars are all under US registry
and do not have those plates… So are these plates saleable?

JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

Gen. Emiliano Zapata
1879-1919

From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 10:44:37 -0600
Subject: GM Top engine cleaner

I was going through mail to delete and saw the thread about GM
top engine cleaner. It is cool stuff. If you pour it into the
carb throat of a warm engine and allow the cleaner to kill the
engine by flooding it, you will be assured it has the entire
intake tract and cylinders saturated. It removes carbon, shellac
and just about every deposit you can think of. After the engine
dies let it sit for about 1 hour and restart the engine. it can
be a pain to get into a port fuel injected engine or side draft
carbs. Delivery through a funnel and tube works well. Good luck
on a V-12. Did it ONCE without spilling a drop. If the engine
idles rough after about 60 seconds, remove the plugs and clean
the carbon from the plug gap that the cleaner loosened.

Its good stuff and must be used correctly. DO NOT add it to the
fuel in your tank. It can turn any rubber in the system into a
nice black goo. It will destroy rubber seals and paper gaskets.
Not sure about paint, but I will assume it eats paint just fine.
Has a really nasty odor too. Used correctly it’s fine. It has
directions. Really.

I called it “stuff” because I just hate typing “Butyl Nitrate”
8’ P

Tim Blystone
pcsolutions@mindspring.com
tlblystone@aol.com

“Newspaper taxis arrive at the shore, waiting to take you away,
climb in the back with your head in the clouds, and you’re gone”
Lennon & McCartney 1967

From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 11:06:38 -0600
Subject: Re: help with a chevy sb 350

: Tim, The suit and the diplomat might be needed if my
: comments should rekindle the lumpist vs. purist wars
: (here’s hoping they don’t).

Yup. I got that. I should have inclueded the emoticon —> 8’ P
to indicate I was pulling yer leg.

: As to building an XK engine or a V12 I heartily agree, that
would be
: serious fun! I imagine the 4.2 six should be able to put out
some
: 300-350hp without loosing driveability, the V12 maybe
400-450hp.

I really do need to get clued in this area. Mostly I need to get
my little fingers on some good parts sources. Also I can see
that I need to visit the mall and get my hands on some good
books.

: My 4.2 XK engine has some 110,000 miles on the clock and is
still
: running beautifully so I won’t even think about modifying it
(“if it
: ain’t broke, don’t fix it”). When the day comes that it needs
an
: overhaul I’ll probably look into modifying it. I’ve been
thinking that a
: long-stroke engine like the 4.2 XK would be ideal for
supercharging or
: turbocharging, any comments from the experts on this list
about this?

I’m partial to supercharging. Hell on the top ring and pavement.
Keep the mechanical compression ratio around 8.5 to 1 for up to
10 pounds boost. What is the fuel like in your part of the
world? Octanes & Quality.

Just curious. How many languages do you speak? I speak American
English, Broken English, Southern American English, Tennessee
Hillbilly English, Jive and I am getting an education on the
vernacular of “Gang’eeze.” I have three sons and the ever
popular gang mentality is a growing phenomenon. So they bring
home some interesting terminology learned in our extremely safe
schools. BTW many schools now have metal detectors and student
ID cards. Policemen stationed on patrol on a daily basis. Nice.

Tim Blystone
pcsolutions@mindspring.com
tlblystone@aol.com

“Newspaper taxis arrive at the shore, waiting to take you away,
climb in the back with your head in the clouds, and you’re gone”
Lennon & McCartney 1967

From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 09:50:58 -0700
Subject: Re: Engine Stand for E engine

FWIW,

Sam’s Club has a 1200 lb capacity engine stand for around $70.00US.
It looks very sturdy and will handle any automobile engine you have
around. Most of the cheaper engine stands are good for about 750
pounds, which is the weight of a fully-assembled small block V8.

Greg.

From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 18:15:48 +0100
Subject: RE: building a nice Jaguar engine

Here in Norway we have 95 octane unleaded, 97 octane unleaded, 98 octane
unleaded and 98 octane “regular”.

All I know about the quality is that my '86 4.2 engine sometimes pings
under heavy load even though I use the 98 octane (unleaded). I’ve
checked the timing and it’s OK, and I have no problems with the engine
overheating.

I agree about supercharging but suspect it would be easier and cheaper
to make a turbo system. I have a friend who’s a magician with
turbocharging and EFI systems…

Gunnar

From: pcsolutions[SMTP:pcsolutions@mindspring.com]
Sent: 15. november 1996 18:06
To: Gunnar Helliesen
Cc: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Re: help with a chevy sb 350

I’m partial to supercharging. Hell on the top ring and pavement.
Keep the mechanical compression ratio around 8.5 to 1 for up to
10 pounds boost. What is the fuel like in your part of the
world? Octanes & Quality.

From: “Thos. Carney” carney@vcn.bc.ca
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 09:35:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #523

Faulty Jags

Gentlemen:
Several digests ago I posted for general info a current court case
here in Vancouver. I believe it involved a 1993 Jag but today’s paper
doesn’t say. As a followup, today’s paper reports in precis:

Vancouver--Businessman Peter Kains, 57, was acquitted on seveal

charges --dangerous driving, driving causing death, impaired driving
causing death and refusing to provide a breath sample. He was charged
after his car plunged into Falser Creek Nov. 27, 1994. A passenger, Dale
Mearns, 50, was killed. Provincial court judge Herb Weitzel said Kains
raised a reasonable doubt that something went wrong with the car, causing
it to shoot forward.
“I am left with a reasonable doubt that there was an inexplicable
behavior of the accused’s car caused by a mechanical malfunction,” the
judge said.
(Earlier defence testimony from a Jaguar-experienced mechanic told of
a tablespoon of water found in the cruise control system.)
-0-

From: Lenny Seidman lseidman@erols.com
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 13:08:42 +0000
Subject: Re: Chassis shakes/ driveshaft balance

Juliansean@aol.com wrote:

Along the lines of the shaky rear view mirror:
My XJS sometimes shakes for unknown reasons. The body shakes slightly. It
is not the front end because I don’t feel it thru the steering wheel. It
doesn’t fel like it’s coming from the rear end either.
Does this indicate driveshaft imbalance?
Could it be a bad rear tranny mount causing vibration transfer to chassis?
It’s annoying because the car only has 32,000 miles.
Thanks
Julian Mullaney

Could also be a slightly bent wheel or a tire with a steel cord broken
inside the sidewall which would cause an imbalance.

Lenny Seidman
Elkins Park, Pennsylvania, USA
email: lseidman@erols.com

From: Curt Onstott onstottc@ucs.orst.edu
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 10:06:02 -0800
Subject: re: engine stands

I’m curious as to what a fully assembled XK engine weighs? I’ve used a
750lb engine stand to do most of the work on my engine (I’ve had it out
twice since the beginning of summer-- a testament to my mechanical
abilities

My engine hoist has legs that extend forward to prevent it from
tipping. The first time I lifted the engine off of the stand I forgot
to extend them and the hoist started to tip. Luckily, I weigh 230 so I
just stood on the hoist while I lowered the engine to the ground.

Sam’s Club has a 1200 lb capacity engine stand for around $70.00US.
It looks very sturdy and will handle any automobile engine you have
around. Most of the cheaper engine stands are good for about 750
pounds, which is the weight of a fully-assembled small block V8.

Greg.

-Pessimist: “This ship is sinking.” -Optimist: “This ship is half full.”

Curt Onstott - Windows/DOS/PC Specialist - Information Services -
Oregon
State University. - (541) 737-1483 - Office: Kerr 217

From: “Francis E. Halaburt” geneh@frontier.net
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 11:05:52 -0700
Subject: Re-post

I sent the following yesterday (Nov. 14, 1996), but I do not believe it
got posted.

Hi!
Please note my E-mail address is now:
geneh@frontier.net

I can recommend the following UK firms as parts suppliers for older
cars:
FB Components Tel: (01865)724646 Fax: (01865)250065
M&C Wilkinson Tel: (01777)818061 Fax: (01777)818049

Finally, has anyone had luck finding authentic-looking under bonnet
fibreglass insulation for MkX-420G cars? Thanks.

-Gene Halaburt

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 15:36:00 -0500 (EST)
Subject: re: engine stands

Greg: It is not what the XK engine weighs but how long it is. The Sams
stand will take the weight but not the length, at least that is what I
learned the hard way.
Chad

From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 16:18:45 -0500
Subject: Re: engine stands

On Nov 15, 3:36pm, Chad Bolles wrote:

Subject: re: engine stands
Greg: It is not what the XK engine weighs but how long it is. The Sams
stand will take the weight but not the length, at least that is what I
learned the hard way.
Chad
– End of excerpt from Chad Bolles

Chad,
I have a Sams type stand and it is somewhat unstable. My 4.2 is on it now,
and it flexes a lot under the weight(or leverage?). I have not put much
additional weight on it as yet, but I will be cranking on it as I attempt to
remove the head. Should I be concerned? What was the “hard way”?

Mark McChesney

From: Tom Luke tluke@tritech-kc.com
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 15:38:13 -0600
Subject: Stake-down kit for '84 XJ6

My jag seems to need the dreaded stake-down kit (clacking sound when
cold). Can anyone send me diagrams, measurements, etc. TIA Tom

From: “William R. Frenchu” wrf@pluto.njcc.com
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 17:02:01 -0500
Subject: New XJS problems…

I’m having some trouble I hope you’all can help me track down.
I’ve got a '91 XJ-S with about 37k miles on it. 5000 miles ago,
I had a steering problem that was diagnosed (at cured) as bad
rack bushings. Seemed like mighty few miles for a problem like
that, but the problem went away.

This week, I had to take the car back because of another steering
problem… lots of “slack” in the “straight ahead” position… Dealer
(with whom I (unfortunately) have a service contract) says the rack
bushings need replacing. Unfortunately because I don’t like or
trust him… fortunately, because it’s a covered repair.

I wouldn’t have believed it possible to wear out the rack bushings
in 5000 miles… (I’m a very conservative driver) unless there’s
something else screwed up. I don’t believe they’re capable of
finding it without me pointing to it… so what are the most likely
candidates for me to point to?

I’d appreciate any help you can provide…

Thanks!

=====================================================================
Bill Frenchu |“Back when I was a
wrf@pluto.njcc.com (609) 466-2604 | boy, we carved our
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/wrf | own IC’s out of wood.”

From: Rolph Muller rolph@globalvt.demon.co.uk
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 20:28:08 +0000
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #524

In message 199611151603.RAA15814@ekeberg.sn.no, owner-jag-lovers-
digest@sn.no writes

Re: Bicycle haters.
Well Gunnar I don’t really hate bicycles - took my S11 Double Six thro
Finland to Norkapp (? did I get it right) and back down to Oslo some vey
stupid reindeer on the way - pity about the speeding fine - really
serious money - even the policeman was embaressed - but so it goes!!

Rolph Muller

From: digs@gradymccauley.com (Digital Imaging)
Date: 15 Nov 1996 21:07:33 GMT
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #524

jag-lovers@sn.no,Internet writes:
From: Tom Higgins tomh@mailserver.ipelond.co.uk
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 10:00:13 +0000
Subject: Bike Haters

My greatest friend was killed this year on her bicycle. She was run over by
a car jumping the lights, and turning a corner. I find the bike-hater
comments stupid, insensitive and nothing to do with Jaguars anyway. For some
time on this list there has been a majority of stupid and non-interesting
rubbish.

I think that the time has come for me to remove myself from the list,
because of this last outrage. I joined the list in the hope of interesting
discussions about Jags, which does happen sometimes, but not enought.

Goodbye

Tom Higgins

HEY TOM,

I’M WITH YOU…TOO MUCH BULL SHIT!

Phil
'62 OTS

From: “Lauren E. Pratt” pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 96 16:08:47 PST
Subject: re: engine stands

Chad

In your post you comment on the Sams engine stand not taking
the length of the XK engine. Would you comment on this a little
more? Is it because the arms to the front wheels are to short
causing the stand and engine to tip over or because the long
heavy engine creates a large moment causing the engine stand
to deform. I have seen this on cheap engine stands with an AH 3000
engine.

Also I have heard of mounting the XK engine to the stand using the
bolt holes at the oil filter. Not much spread on the mounting
bolts here, and may not be able to mount the head to the block.
Any comment on this mounting method, anyone?

Cheers Lauren

Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 11/15/96
Time: 4:08:47 PM

This message was sent by Chameleon

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 17:47:22 -0600
Subject: OK, let’s split the list [was:Re[2]: bicycle haters]

How about we split the list into two parts:

Messages with Jag content
Messages without Jag content.

(yes, I know this is a 2)

MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: bicycle haters
Author: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR) at Internet
Date: 11/14/1996 2:18 PM

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 17:41:06 -0600
Subject: Re[4]: Fuel economy

This is a Mime message, which your current mail reader
may not understand. Parts of the message will appear as
text. To process the remainder, you will need to use a Mime
compatible mail reader. Contact your vendor for details.

–IMA.Boundary.380990848
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Description: cc:Mail note part

My understanding is that the “oxygenated fuel” sold around here is
basically gasohol, gasoline mixed with alcohol. I have no idea if
it’s blended with ethanol or methanol, or even if it’s really gasohol.

The alleged benefit is reduced emissions.

The observed harm is increased fuel consumption. Some people have
claimed damage to seals and hoses, but I have never seen any problems
with either my '88 XJ-S or my '74 E-Type. (Well, none I didn’t expect
anyway .)

MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Fuel economy
Author: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com at Internet
Date: 11/14/1996 8:20 AM

 <snip>

I would be interested in hearing about oxygenated fuel. What is done to the
fuel. What are the benefits and drawbacks.

Tim Blystone

–IMA.Boundary.380990848–

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 17:56:57 -0600
Subject: Re: Jag Leaping Cats

 Whar are you going to do? Hunt him down and kill him for defacing such 
 a beautiful car?

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Jag Leaping Cats
Author: Rolph Muller rolph@globalvt.demon.co.uk at Internet
Date: 11/14/1996 1:03 PM

There is apparently a guy in Sarasota, Florida who makes leaping cats
for the XJS. If he’s out there or if anyone has a fax no. for him please
let me know.
Regards

Rolph Muller

From: Aaron Burnett aaron.burnett@attws.com
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 15:37:49 -0800
Subject: All Jaguars- removal of wheel weight adhesive pad

Anyone know of a good way to remove the sticky scum left behind by
removed wheel weights? I recently had new tires mounted and the wheels
balanced and can’t remove the adhesive left by these old weights.

Aaron
'85 XJ-S

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #525

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Message-Id: 199611160932.KAA27433@ekeberg.sn.no
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jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 16 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 526

RE: Fuel economy
XJ-S: Need Center Interior Light
Heater Blower Fans
Re: All Jaguars- removal of wheel weight adhesive pad
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #524
Re: All Jaguars- removal of wheel weight adhesive pad
Re: XJ-S Flooding is Not Fixed
Re: XJ-S Flooding is Not Fixed
Re: Bike Haters
Re: Air Conditioning - noise -XJ40 -1988
Re: All Jaguars- removal of wheel weight adhesive pad
re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #518 & 519
re: All Jaguars- removal of wheel weight adhesive pad
Re: Re[2]: H & E
Re: All Jaguars- removal of wheel weight adhesive pad
Re: XJ-S: Need Center Interior Light
Re: Cold start S3
Re: bicycling Jag-lovers
Re: In Need of a Manual…
Re: god help my starter?
Re: All Jaguars- removal of wheel weight adhesive pad

From: Aaron Burnett aaron.burnett@attws.com
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 16:02:14 -0800
Subject: RE: Fuel economy

What did you do to increase your oil pressure? My '85 XJ-S has about 55
psi when first started in the morning. As it warms up, the pressure
drops to about 45 on the highway and almost 0 psi at stop. Should I
start worrying? It has been this way since I bought it about 18 months
ago.

Aaron
'85 XJ-S

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu[SMTP:JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu]
Sent: Monday, November 11, 1996 7:37 AM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Fuel economy

Now I put this down to increased viscosity of the oil when it’s colder
(the oil-cooler has no thermostat). So I’m wondering if the difference
between the two cars may be due to different grades of oil in the two
cars. I admit that the difference Steve is getting sounds a bit large
for this cause but maybe if there’s 20W-50 in the thirsty Jag and 0W-30
synthetic in the other one???

…or maybe different thermostats in the two cars causing a slight
difference in oil temp? (any difference in coolant temp gauge readings?)

This does not compute.

If this were the case then you would get better milage when the car was
overheating. You dont. My XJ-S got the same milage when the radiator was
70% plugged and it was running on an oil pressure of 10 to 30 as it does now
with the radiator cleaned and the oil pressure running 25 to 60. The oil
pressure is a good guage of viscosity. I dont believe your observed
difference has anything to do with the oil viscosity.

The cause of lower milage in colder weather is probably the cold start
mechanisum using more gas on short runs.
    JIM I.
“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”
                                                    Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                      1879-1919

From: Aaron Burnett aaron.burnett@attws.com
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 16:40:13 -0800
Subject: XJ-S: Need Center Interior Light

I just had my healiner redone and the technician (using the term
advisedly) broke the overhead interior light in my '85 XJ-S. Anyone
have one they would like to sell?

Aaron
'85 XJ-S

From: DMSQ@aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 19:54:51 -0500
Subject: Heater Blower Fans

Hi all!

Does anyone have a part number or advice on replacing the blower motors in my
Series 1 XJ with a US-made replacement (Delco, et al.)?

I have heard this is a common replacement to get more efficiency from the
original blowers, which are rather lame. Mine are also somewhat corroded, I
have rebuilt one which seized, and the gears are pretty bad off.

I will of course keep the originals for safekeeping, but for now would choose
function over originality.

Thanks for the input–BTW, note the new e-mail address.

–David Quintana
1971 XJ
DMSQ@aol.com

From: Doug Heinen povtybay@wolfenet.com
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 17:10:19 +0930
Subject: Re: All Jaguars- removal of wheel weight adhesive pad

Aaron Burnett wrote:

Anyone know of a good way to remove the sticky scum left behind by
removed wheel weights?

You might try several things. Depending on the finish of the wheels you
could try the following:

Hair Spray. Yes, it works well on some adhesives.
WD-40 or similar aerosol penetrating oil/lubricants
Aerosol brake-parts cleaner. ie: BraKleen, etc.
Mineral Spirits
Lacquer thinner (LAST RESORT) this could strip a clear coat finish!!

Good Luck!

doug heinen

From: Rolph Muller rolph@globalvt.demon.co.uk
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 20:45:23 +0000
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #524

In message 199611151603.RAA15814@ekeberg.sn.no, owner-jag-lovers-
digest@sn.no writes

As to building an XK engine or a V12 I heartily agree, that would be
serious fun! I imagine the 4.2 six should be able to put out some
300-350hp without loosing driveability, the V12 maybe 400-450hp.
I’ve only just joined in the last couple of days and am still finding my
way around- I guess there are all sorts of ways to stroke V12’s. However
there are a couple of guys in the UK who were Jag development engineers
and offer a range of performance packages - I started with a modified
ECU - no power increase - but a lot more flexibility. They claim up to
50BHP on their total package - I’ve no way of checking - but it’s
probably true. It involves overise throttles, modified airbox/filters
and tuned airinlet manifolds. The penalty you pay is noise- there is
certainly more power and torque. Is it worth it? - probably not unless
you drive in Germany - I do and it’s worth every penny. They are on
44(0) 1625 573556

Rolph Muller

From: “Lee Walden” lwalden@ebmud.com
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 17:12:01 -0800
Subject: Re: All Jaguars- removal of wheel weight adhesive pad

Aaron, try WD-40 and a little elbow grease. Let the WD-40 soak in a while,
and you should be able to remove the pad. Hit the adhesive with a hair
dryer too to soften it up.

From: Aaron Burnett aaron.burnett@attws.com
To: ‘jag-lovers@sn.no’
Subject: All Jaguars- removal of wheel weight adhesive pad
Date: Friday, November 15, 1996 3:37 PM

Anyone know of a good way to remove the sticky scum left behind by
removed wheel weights? I recently had new tires mounted and the wheels
balanced and can’t remove the adhesive left by these old weights.

Aaron
'85 XJ-S

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 20:33:58 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S Flooding is Not Fixed

On the XJ12 the air-temp sensor is separate is it not? I am suprised

My XJ-S has it separate. No air flow meter, either.

John

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 20:40:00 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S Flooding is Not Fixed

This sounds like a trouble spot ! The cooland temp sensor is most important.
I’ve played around a lot with these values to reduce fuel consumption at
warmup. Any major change to the value resulted in a no-start condition
on my car.

Yes, we have to go further here.

I checked yesterday my various fuel injection books from BOSCH and one thing
I forgot to mention are the cold-start injectors. If they (or the control)
have a problem, flooding can also occur.

No cold-starts on this car.

John

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 20:53:44 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Bike Haters

On Fri, 15 Nov 1996, Tom Higgins wrote:

My greatest friend was killed this year on her bicycle.

While I am very sorry for the loss, can someone explain what this has to
do with the issue?
John

From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 20:18:39 -0600
Subject: Re: Air Conditioning - noise -XJ40 -1988

: Air Conditioning noise - ‘hissing’ system - to date a leak has
been found and
: fixed - the system toped up with refridgerant - waiting to
see, or hear! what
: happens. At the moment it ‘sounds’ ok - thanks for your
interest
: regards Rod farmer

You’re Welcome.

Hope it turns out well.

Tim Blystone
pcsolutions@mindspring.com
tlblystone@aol.com

“Newspaper taxis arrive at the shore, waiting to take you away,
climb in the back with your head in the clouds, and you’re gone”
Lennon & McCartney 1967

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 21:40:42 -0005
Subject: Re: All Jaguars- removal of wheel weight adhesive pad

Aaron:

Anyone know of a good way to remove the sticky scum left behind by
removed wheel weights? I recently had new tires mounted and the wheels
balanced and can’t remove the adhesive left by these old weights.

Baby oil.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: RMac@aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 21:46:02 -0500
Subject: re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #518 & 519

Two issues in a row never showed up.
Are a lot of digest-subscribers seeing dropped issues in their subscriptions?
This is the third & fouth instance of this happening to me.

Robert MacLeay (rmac@aol.com)
1990 XJ40 VdP Majestic

From: RMac@aol.com
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 21:45:59 -0500
Subject: re: All Jaguars- removal of wheel weight adhesive pad

Aaron Burnett aaron.burnett@attws.com asked:

Anyone know of a good way to remove the sticky scum left behind by
removed wheel weights? I recently had new tires mounted and the wheels
balanced and can’t remove the adhesive left by these old weights.

There is a product on the market called Goo Gone, made by Magic American
Corp. It is nothing short of miraculous in removing any adhesive. FInd it
in hardware/home center stores.

Robert MacLeay (rmac@aol.com)
1990 XJ40 VdP Majestic

From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 21:55:02 -0600
Subject: Re: Re[2]: H & E

: From: Mike Cogswell M.Cogswell@zds.com
: To: pcsolutions pcsolutions@mindspring.com
: Subject: Re[2]: H & E

: Hmmm, hope I didn’t miss an interesting thread. Was it offline?
As
: it happens, I have an '88 H & E so I’m a bit (too) familiar with
the
: fuel system. If you need more info, I also have the H & E manual.
: MikeC Was the thread off line?

I first mentioned it here and got one reply out of this
echo(offline).

I did have the manual and the tech drawings from Hess and I’m sure I
still do… somewhere… I would love to have copies of what you have
though. I will pay for the materials and postage.

I was discussing the H&E fuel tank arangement. It caught some folks
attention. Basically H&E bastardized the setup from Jag. There are 3
fuel cells. If your manual includes drawings of the fuel cells you
will see the tank in the cabin straddles the
tunnel in what used to be the rear seat (which I affectionately refer
to as the “bookshelf”) The other tank is the Jag original and is
sectioned to allow room for the new drop top. The last tank is the
Jag original sump tank. My modification puts the plastic hose from
the H&E fuel cell directly into the supply for the sump tank. A new
and longer piece of hose is required. Fuel is pumped by the H&E pump
directly into the Jag sump tank and bypasses the need for the tank to
be gravity filled. There is a return to Jags original main tank from
the sump tank so there is no excess pressure in the sump. The result
is a fuel systen that doesn’t have the H&E problem with steep
inclines or die dead in the middle of a hot southern day.

The original configuration from H&E is like this: The fuel is pumped
into Jags original main tank when you fill up. The fuel then gravity
feeds both the original sump tank and H&E’s “brain child” tank in the
cabin. The tank in the cabin is about 12 inches lower than the
original main tank and fuel is supplied to it via gravity and a
rubber hose that looks like a section of radiator hose. The fuel is
then pumped (constantly) into the original tank (the one that is
sectioned) The fuel system is pretty much stock after that (almost).
The continous pumping of the fuel into the original tank makes it
very “frothy” add this to the already aerated fuel returning from the
engines fuel rail and you get fuel that is substantially aerated.
Normally this presents very little problems until the AC goes on the
fritz, or you have one of H&E’s earlier designs. H&E went through a
couple of different configurations. The main difference is the dams
added in the interior of Jags original tank. A major drawback to the
design is simple. Jag employs a fuel cooler that has a housing in
which the fuel passes through, the whole affair is about 6 or so
inches long and 1.75 inches in diameter. The fuel passes through a
chamber inside the cooler which is cooled by the suction side of the
AC system. If it is summer, the top is down… the AC system is off.
No cool fuel. Vapor lock from hell. Not all H&E conversions exhibit
these problems. Most do in varying degrees. All of the early tank
designs will stall on a sufficient incline.

Since yours is an 1988 conversion you have the most refined tank
design… of the types I know about. If you experience vapor lock
either while driving or during warm starts the fix is for you. You
probably will never experience fuel starvation because the dams that
were added in the later tanks (like yours) prevents the upper tank
from being completely emptied into the lower H&E tank on steep
inclines. Also the tank and hose are completely filled when the fuel
system is filled to 50% or greater capacity.

Well now I’ve gone and done it… I have been saying steep “inclines”
and that is true, except it only happens when you go down a steep
incline. Good thing I don’t live in San Francisco. I would really be
confused.

Tim Blystone
pcsolutions@mindspring.com
tlblystone@aol.com

“Newspaper taxis arrive at the shore, waiting to take you away,
climb in the back with your head in the clouds, and you’re gone”
Lennon & McCartney 1967

From: Victor Naumann jagdoc@erols.com
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 22:51:29 -0500
Subject: Re: All Jaguars- removal of wheel weight adhesive pad

RMac@aol.com wrote:

Aaron Burnett aaron.burnett@attws.com asked:

Anyone know of a good way to remove the sticky scum left behind by
removed wheel weights? I recently had new tires mounted and the wheels
balanced and can’t remove the adhesive left by these old weights.

There is a product on the market called Goo Gone, made by Magic American
Corp. It is nothing short of miraculous in removing any adhesive. FInd it
in hardware/home center stores.

Robert MacLeay (rmac@aol.com)
1990 XJ40 VdP Majestic
We generally use anadhesive remover such as ARDEX and a rag, never harms
the clearcoat and you can even use it on paint.
Regards, Vic

From: Jon Jackson jon1@flash.net
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 22:50:56 -0600
Subject: Re: XJ-S: Need Center Interior Light

Aaron Burnett wrote:

I just had my healiner redone and the technician (using the term
advisedly) broke the overhead interior light in my '85 XJ-S. Anyone
have one they would like to sell?

Aaron
'85 XJ-S
Aaron,

I picked one up for about $20.00 at a salvage yard here in the Dallas,
Texas area. It looks brand new. If you would like I can call them on
monday and see if they have any more

Jon
87 XJS

From: Tom Graham TGraham@internetmci.com
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 1996 22:59:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Cold start S3

– [ From: Tom Graham * EMC.Ver #2.3 ] –

'Morning Chaps-
SO it does start after about 8 revs. How is it running then - does it stop
and you have to re-crank it? Does it run at a nice fast idle??? My first
guess is it is a choke type of problem, that is lack of choke, there is not
a nice bit of fuel getting in right quick to start the engine. What on the
FI provides this choke action? There I think is your clue. A rather very
crude way of simulating the choke action would be to take out each of the 6
spark(ing) plugs and carefully inject/pour maybe 5cc??, 10cc???, of
gasoline into each cylinder. (This would be bit tricky, too little gas and
you’ve learned nothing, too much and the plugs may get wet and not spark,
way too much and you’ll get hydraulic lockup). Quickly reinstall the plugs
and see if it then starts right up.

You really need some advice from someone other than me here in southern
California!!!
Cherio - Tom

From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@CompuServe.COM
Date: 16 Nov 96 03:50:30 EST
Subject: Re: bicycling Jag-lovers

Hi Jim Isbell,

Not trying to start a flame war, but strong opinions always call for replies…

So why did you become a bicycle hater ? Just because the skinny brainless butts
drive bikes at night without light ? Surely you disapprove of the person not the
bike ?.

I don’t hate bicyles, and do enjoy them sometimes, however calling a bicycle a
toy is
not correct (IMHO). It is not a toy, and driving a bicycle should be taken
serious (by the rider) since obviously a bicycle rider is a vonulerable member
of the road users.

I dont understand bicycles are allowed on highways in the (some states of ?) US

- that seems like a serious lack of sense. I believe most if not all motorways
  (as they are called over here) in Europe have bicycles banned. You are not
  allowed to walk on a motorway over here either other than in an emergency (its
  an offense to run out of petrol too !).

Letting bikers “deliberately” slow traffic with police escorte I find an absurd
idea, but maybe there are many people of your opinion which lead to such
measures ?

I understand that cars are much more widely used in the US and that the
“perception” thus is biased towards cars. Here in Europe we are sometime
encouraged to leave the car at home whenever it is possible, an concept I
approve wholly but seldomly take real active part in. However starting a V12 to
go 200 meers to pick up beer at the local gas-station is ridiculous, also
because of the environment, but also its a shame for the engine. In towns with
outrageously high levels of criminality it is considered unsafe to even be on
the street and even 10 yeras ago My parents told about the Big Apple where you
take a cab for any distance because of the high probability to be mugged, or
even killed for a dime. A pity indeed, Now those bastard muggers should be shot
on sight !

Shooting the brainless bicycle idiots is maybe a bit strong, but serious fines
would be allright. Here it is also an offence to hinder or slow traffic

Different countries have different approaches to the theme of bicycle riders. I
The netherland where I lived before, the roads are mostly layed out with
separate bicycle lanes and often ther are bicycle roads where there are no car
road next to it. In that country it is quite a delight to ride bicycle. To hit a
bicycle and its rider in the Netherlands is a serious offense, and is not
recommended. The bicycle rider is likely not to get the blame, which
unfortunately leads to some brainless idiots which dont “care” even about their
own safety e.g. by crossing left over a road without looking back (an issue I
cannot understand). In the netherlands the pedestrians and the bicycle riders
and the cars are mostly independently led over traffic crossings with a
regulating light. Takes longer, but is much safer. Leads to bicycles crossing in
the pedestrians fields though…

In Germany where I live now there are not the same number of bicycle roads, and
quite often bicycles are allowed to run on the pavement (an offence in The
netherlands and Denmark for instance). This is no good either, and bicycling
here in Germany I distincly dislike since the safety is marginal. Horrible in
towns.

Many car drivers are outright idiots when it comes to passing a bicycle, far to
close, and is every time in a very dangerous situation for the biker ,
him/herself and other participants in the traffic. Bicycle riders swerve a bit,
and I always reserve 2 meters passing distance if possible, and never less that
1 meter , but at reduced speed then (but in principle not slow enough). I would
feel very bad indeed if I hit a person in traffic, wheras I have less scruples
about cars (another “senseless” idea - but nobody is perfect…)

I presume you wouldn’t shoot the bikers on Jaguar Brand bicycles ? (surely
someone makes a Jaguar Bicycle ? V12 with thirty CC’s

What brand was Charles Daly’s bike when you emptied your Magnum at this bike ?

See Lawrence - your pictoresque prose has now got a new mega-thread started on
bicycles versus cars. Just no way that could have been predicted

I now understand the use of US style bumpers. In denmark we call these
“cow-catchers”, but obviously in the US these are bicycle fenders !.

Who thinks bicycle driver should have more right to the road than car drivers ?
Oops - flame retardant suit on auto-inflate, Terminator 2 guns armed, Ready !

Regards Jeffrey Gram

From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@CompuServe.COM
Date: 16 Nov 96 03:50:41 EST
Subject: Re: In Need of a Manual…

Theo,

I got books from a old freindly guy in UK at the Spares day.
He’dsss called Margaret Motors and is in Norwich UK.

Is there a helpul UK soul that traces his telephone number for me please ?

You can also order at bookspeed (see jagweb).
About 35 pounds me thinks for the book.

140$ is ridiculous.

Regards Jeffrey Gram

From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@CompuServe.COM
Date: 16 Nov 96 03:50:44 EST
Subject: Re: god help my starter?

Kevin,
This indeed totally unnerving sound is when the starter turns into a two
horsepower metalgrinder, where the flywheel is the victim !.

If can be due to the sliding whatever-this-thing-is-called that has a problem. I
have had mine exchanged, due to another problem (No engagement) and in true
Jaguar fashion the resolve results in another problem popping up. This is
Hubbles constant for Jaguars , The sum of errors are always constant :-))).

Just get the starter out, and get a new thingy.

Regards

From: tony goodall tony@goodall.u-net.com
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 1996 09:30:41 +0000
Subject: Re: All Jaguars- removal of wheel weight adhesive pad

At 22:51 15/11/96 -0500, Victor Naumann wrote:

RMac@aol.com wrote:

Aaron Burnett aaron.burnett@attws.com asked:

Anyone know of a good way to remove the sticky scum left behind by
removed wheel weights? I recently had new tires mounted and the wheels
balanced and can’t remove the adhesive left by these old weights.

“trike”

trichloroethane 1-1-1

this is used by tyre guys in the UK

it’s standard degreasing stuff

tony

Dr. A. Goodall       http://www.u-net.com/~goodall/

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #526

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jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 16 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 527

Re: chevy stuff offline please
Re: Bicycle insurances
Re: XJS Surging - top end cleaners.
Re: Decipher a paint number and tire blemishes
New Member
Re: XJ-S Flooding is Not Fixed
Re: XJ-S Purging air from heater core
GM Top engine cleaner
porsche list
Removing balance weight adhesive
XK timing chain adjustment
Oxygenated fuel
XJ40 Stereo
Re: XK timing chain adjustment
Re: bicycling Jag-lovers
Re: Veneer refinishing
veneer on metal
incontinent V12
Re: XJ40 Stereo
Re: XJ40 Stereo
Re: XJ40 Stereo
Re: XK timing chain adjustment

From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@CompuServe.COM
Date: 16 Nov 96 07:12:12 EST
Subject: Re: chevy stuff offline please

Hey Guys
This is the diplomat: take this heavy chevy stuff offline - not a breath of
interest how to maintain it. Arming my Terminator two 12 barrel rocket
launcher… click

Regs Jeffrey Gram

From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@CompuServe.COM
Date: 16 Nov 96 07:12:23 EST
Subject: Re: Bicycle insurances

Hi, Dave,

I dont think we have bicycle third party insurances here too, but I concur
with the idea. However if one of this London daredevils scratches the car, his
hers insurance (personal liability) would have to cover. Unfortunately it is not
by law that every person should have one.

The problem is to actually get the bastard after he collides with your car.

Only tougher legislationcan alleviate such openly breach of traffic law.

regs jeff

From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@CompuServe.COM
Date: 16 Nov 96 07:12:33 EST
Subject: Re: XJS Surging - top end cleaners.

Hi,

Don’t know for sure about your surging problem, I have a V12 for a
year only , without serious problems… (yet) but surging or hunting
is a phenomenon which relates to an “undamped” control loops,
e.g. possibly a feedback to the ECU. Best is to carefully go through
every sensor, check em and the connection to the ECU.

Serious gunk on the intake valves comes from oil seepage from
the valve train above where the oils passes the valve stem and
burns to a carbonlike mass on the slopes of the valve. This can
be very substantial. My XJ6 had up to 7 millimeter near the
stem and about two mm at the valveseat and this is an engine
only with 70000 km !.

I too tried several top end cleaners at two instances, together
with an oil cleaner - first has no effect other than a GIGANTIC
smoke cloud, the last dropped my oilpressure with 20 PSI .
I did leave the oil cleaner in for 2000 km rather than 500
(forgot about it), i noticed when oil pres dropped.

It is sometimes also possible to have the gunk flaking off with
thermal chock effects. To do this I first drove the car warm -
airfilters off and literaly pouring carbonised mineral water
into the air inlet of the carbs with the engine going at 2500
RPM. Poured 2 liters in there in a couple of minutes.
This had no (acoustic) effect and again a gigantic cloud

this time with environmentally freindly H2O in gaseous
form :-).

As I later found out these treatments had absolutely no
effects - me thinks, since upon disassembly of the engine
(some time later), the above described gunk was on the inlet
valves, apart from the two rearmost, and now we come to the
only real performance valve gunk remover DIY trick :

Upon removal of my triple carbs (XJ6C with “special J.Gram”
manifold modification to a 420G set triples) , manifold off, a
shiny small metal rod about 1 3/4 " length with rounded
hexagon end dropped from the manifold. It dropped from
the inlet tract which paralysed me , because of the severe
emotional wawes mixed with the logical departments desperate
attempt to explain the un-explainable : how did this Star-craft
Enterprise Warp-engine look-a-like shiny metal rod land in my
inlet tract. Have to send Capt. Kirk and Scotty a complaint for
materialising this in my Jag engine.
The metal rod at closer inspection was a extremely well battered
1 3/4 " bolt perfectly smooth and rounded. The inlet tract of the
manifold, the back-side of the SU carn HD8 trottle disc , the
cylinder head inlet tracts (2), and the valve rear were perfectly
clean, it a beatiful hammerfinish ! I looked at this for a full quarter
of an hour is sheer disbelief and amazement. This bolt had been
beaten around by the valves for a full year, hitting one valve ,
catapulted back all the way to the carb (a full 7-8 inches),
and rattling in to the neighbour tract. This bolt is just long
enough not the be able to turn in the head inlet tract,
long enough not to be able to enter fully the curvature
of the immediate valve opening, and never managed to
get between the valve and the valve seat - incredible !.

So being a real dare devil I found another two bolts , popped
one in each inlet section of the manifold and drove another
year to clean the other two - No just joking, but might have
gotten away with it. I cursed myself for being a real amateur,
managing the great feat to get the triples on the car and get
it working and then leave a bloody bolt in there too. Maybe
I should have gone to bed that night in 1991 and not been
tinkering to 6 am !.

There you go - The bolt was 10 cents, the top end cleaner
was 20$ and didn’t work a damn.

Regards Jeffrey Gram

From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@CompuServe.COM
Date: 16 Nov 96 07:12:14 EST
Subject: Re: Decipher a paint number and tire blemishes

Jim
Tire blemishes are the threads torn inside the rubber due to age.
This is extremely dangerous as the tyre can explode and deflate instantly.
You basically dont know which dirction the XJS will take thereafter, however not
straight.

The tires are scrap. I know its hard but what is a few hundred dollars for your
life ?

The tire walls must also not have msmall crack all over - also scrap.

Generally tyres should not be older than 5 yeras if you want to be absolute sure
(99%).

Just got all new P5’s on - very satisfied.

Regards Jeff

From: Brian Richgels jaguar@brainerd.net
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 1996 06:39:16 -0800
Subject: New Member

Hello, I’m a new member to the list. I would like to do my part in
regards to a brief history of myself as a new comer to the list.
First of all I would like to say how delighted I am to find a group of
people like yourselves. There are not many people in the area I live
that I can share my enthusiasm for automobiles in particular Jaguar.
I am 40 years old, married,have two daughters,16 and 18,I live in Little
Falls, Minnesota-USA.
My search for a series III car began about three years ago, It took a
lot of looking before I found my 1985 XJ6 V.P.(Black). I narrowed my
search to 1985 or 86 XJ6 and the color wasn’t a big issue just so long
as it was black. I finally found it 2 years ago. I bought the car in
Mpls. Mn., drove it home and went to work on it. I do all my own
mechanical and body work myself.To make a long story short,I have been
working on this car for some time,went through it mechanically, then
proceeded to disassemble the car and strip to bare metal for
re-painting. I now am about a month away from total completion.It’s
looking great. I do have a few minor remaining problems,such as
diagnosing my cruise control and deciding if the rear main seal leaks
bad enough to do something with or just start driving it. Never the less
I am looking forward to asking some questions and learning as much as I
can about my 85 XJ6 and also hearing about experiences others have with
a similar type car…Thanks,Brian
P.S. Where do I find the “Jag-lovers Data Base”?

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 1996 09:01:21 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S Flooding is Not Fixed

John: The ECU increases the pulse width when the engine is cold,getting
its signal from the water temp sensor. Check the TPS voltage(not ohm
reading as I said in another msg) it should be between .32 and .36volts
closed. If this is correct,then check the full throttle mirco
switch,located under the TPS, make sure it is operating correctly(not
stuck in the on position),then check the full throttle vacuum
switch,located on top of the rt inlet manifold,disconnect it,then
reconnect,no difference then ok. Fuel press 28.5-30 at rail NO MORE, this
is taken on the inlet side of the fuel rail,between the regulator and the
rail. Pull plugs if you have several that are black and the rest with a
good burn, then I would suggest bad injectors on those cyl’s…
Hope this helps for now,I will come back to you with more if needed.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: “Richard.Mansell” Richard.Mansell@psemail.ps.net
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 1996 14:57:00 +0000
Subject: Re: XJ-S Purging air from heater core

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From: owner-jag-lovers@sn.no%ussmtp at ccx400uk
Date: 11/15/96 9:33PM
To: Richard Mansell at Not-Cop5
*To: jag-lovers@sn.no%ussmtp at ccx400uk
Subject: Re: XJ-S Purging air from heater core

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Content-Type: text/plain; name=“Authorized by…”; charset=us-ascii

Message authorized by:
: Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au%ussmtp at ccx400uk

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Jan

Thanks, you were the only one who responded. Perhaps I would have had
more interest if the bell on my bicycle had stopped working!

I will try running the car for a bit with the heater on defrost. I do
get the odd gurgle from the heating system in the first minute or two
so I think air is still in there.

I also intend to bypass the heater control valve to see if I get more
heat that way.

Failing that I will pull the heater core and check it out.

I am sure the heater should be a lot better than it is, the workshop
manual says the air temperature at the screen outlet should be a
minimum of 54-60 degrees centigrade within 7 minutes of running.

Richard

______________________________ Forward Header __________________________________
Subject: Re: XJ-S Purging air from heater core
Author: owner-jag-lovers@sn.no%ussmtp at ccx400uk
Date: 15/11/96 21:33

AFAIK, the method is to set the climate control to Defrost and run the engine
as you top up the coolant.

-Jan
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From: David Hurlston viadata@mindspring.com
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 1996 09:47:17 -0600
Subject: GM Top engine cleaner

A word of caution here. The stuff really works, which means chunks of
carbon get unglued from the pistons and hopefully get blown out of the exhaust.

If you are unlucky the chunks of carbon go where they shouldn’t, such as
sticking in the valves or getting down into the piston rings. That can get
expensive.

Overall, I wouldn’t use it.

By the way, I did this once on a car. I had heard that clouds of smoke
result during the process so I drove a couple of miles out to an unpopulated
area and did the job. There were indeed clouds of smoke that just didn’t
quit. I got tired of waiting and drove home thinking it would soon stop.
It didn’t. It was a beautiful sunny day and people were out and about,
walking, riding bicycles etc. Here I came followed by a huge cloud of white
smoke. As I drove along, I could see the expressions on peoples faces
change from curiosity to alarm to downright fear, then they were lost in the
cloud as I drove by. I hope they lived.

Dave
David Hurlston, ViaData Incorporated

From: DHarr13177@aol.com
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 1996 11:03:26 -0500
Subject: porsche list

I am considering a 1970 911, and wonder if anyone knows of a list for Porsche

-lovers
Is this a good year for them ? He wants $7,000. It has 30,000 on a replaced
motor, 90,000 overall

Doug

From: Jim Brown brown@ns.net
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 1996 08:14:30 -0800
Subject: Removing balance weight adhesive

Aaron,
Try a product called “Goof Off”, it is available from your local hardware
store. It has an amazing ability to remove various kinds of goop without
harming the underlying finish.

Jim Brown
1985 XJ-S _“The AntiChrist”

From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 1996 11:32:11 -0500 (EST)
Subject: XK timing chain adjustment

My timing chain has become a bit noisy. Does anyone have any tips on adjustment?

Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2 (4.2L)

From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 1996 11:32:09 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Oxygenated fuel

MikeC:

I believe oxygenated fuel contains MTBE, not alchohol. I haven't heard

that this stuff is associated with rubber erosion. However, there have been
a few lawsuits with regard to undesirable effects on human beings, and I
think that Alaska recently outlawed it. Alchol-enhanced fuel was very
popular for a while in the 80’s. It still may be today,in some areas. I know
the agricultural lobbies are still hot on it.

I have had severe problems with rubber degradation using alcoholic gas. In
1982 I had (this is a confession) a Plymouth Horizon. The carburetor on this
car had a large rubber spacer/gasket, which was supposed to insulate it from
engine heat. When gasohol first became popular in the US, I used it
regularly. In not too much time my carburetor was floating freely above the
engine, because the spacer had corroded. The replacement part from Mopar was
an aluminum spacer with conventional gaskets. When I got my jag, the jet
diaphragms were totally petrified, with the same type of degradation and
erosion. I assume the PO used gasohol. The fuel pump later failed, again due
to degraded rubber.

Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2

You Wrote:
My understanding is that the “oxygenated fuel” sold around here is
basically gasohol, gasoline mixed with alcohol. I have no idea if
it’s blended with ethanol or methanol, or even if it’s really gasohol.

The alleged benefit is reduced emissions.

The observed harm is increased fuel consumption. Some people have
claimed damage to seals and hoses, but I have never seen any problems
with either my '88 XJ-S or my '74 E-Type. (Well, none I didn’t expect
anyway .)

From: “Stuart Johnson” sjohnson@interalpha.co.uk
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 1996 16:43:13 -0000
Subject: XJ40 Stereo

I have recently purchased a 1988 XJ40 (UK model) and I want to replace
the existing stereo system with a CD system. My intentions are to
up-rate the door speaks, with speakers of the same size (4in ?), so as
not to have to cut holes, and put a boxed subwoofer and amp in the boot
along with an autochanger. I intended to drive the door speakers using
the amp in the header unit to keep things simple, and perhaps get a
pair of small tweeters to sit on the dash.

Has anyone got any tips? I would particularly like to know the best
way to route the wiring from the boot to the dash, and from the dash to
the battery.

Stuart.

From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@deltanet.com
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 1996 08:55:29 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: XK timing chain adjustment

SICP has been selling the tensioner tool for about $15.00US for some time.
My tensioner was a bit stuck (the splined peg that locks the adjuster
wheel). I loosened the locking bolt a half turn or so, hit it all with
liquid wrench, waited a day or so and tapped on the peg with a plastic faced
hammer to loosen it. Other than that, rather straightforward. The SCIP tool
is a piece of pipe with a couple of roll pins to engage the adjuster. You
have to depress the locking pin by hand - no problem.
Hunt

At 11:32 AM 11/16/96 -0500, Michael Frank wrote:

My timing chain has become a bit noisy. Does anyone have any tips on
adjustment?

Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2 (4.2L)

From: Doug Heinen povtybay@wolfenet.com
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 1996 08:59:46 +0930
Subject: Re: bicycling Jag-lovers

Jeffrey Gram wrote:

Hi Jim Isbell,

Not trying to start a flame war, but strong opinions always call for replies…

Group:

I was under the -distinct- impression that Nick, our fine list-server
administrator, had said this thread on bicycles was over and done. As
his word is law here on this list-server, it would behoove us all to not
piss off the persons whose hard work and efforts keep this valuable
resource alive and well. As to claims of freedom of speech and 1st
Amendment rights, I believe in them as strongly as any American can.
However, bear in mind this is an international list-server, and our
Constitution, as wonderful a document as it is, is NOT recognized the
world over. The list server is a private endeavor and a labor of love.

Please comply.

soap box mode = OFF

Thank You.

doug heinen

From: John Toyofuku toyofuku@slip.net
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 1996 14:11:10 -0800
Subject: Re: Veneer refinishing

John,

excellent reply. Can We have the ISBN number, year, complete author name and
publisher name (and address if possible).

Regards Jeff

Sorry I didn’t include that Jeff. I’m sending this to the list as well
since others asked the same question. The book I got is: “The
Woodfinishing Book” by Michael Dresdner published by The Taunton Press,
63 South Main Street, box 5506, Newtown, CT 06470-5506, ISBN
1-56158-037-6 Copyright 1992, third printing 1995. It is part of the
“Fine Woodworking” series from Taunton Press.

I found the book in a shop that specializes in hardwoods called MacBeath
Hardwoods in Berkeley, California. They sell Walnut Burl veneers and
other hardwoods if anyone needs to re-veneer.

A PO let the veneer get destroyed on two pieces so I’ll have to
re-veneer them. If you need to do this, just be aware that there are two
layers of veneer I’ve found on my S Type. Not sure if it’s the same for
other models. Jaguar put a regular veneer under the burl veneer so that
the edges of the trim have that lighter cast to it.

John Toyofuku
'65 3.8 ‘S’ Type
'83 Yamaha 750 Virago - “The better way to ‘bike’.”

From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 1996 12:50:28 -0500
Subject: veneer on metal

My XJS has a couple of burl walnut pieces that are glued on to metal instead
of a wood backing. Of course these are prone to delaminating from the metal.
Does anyone have any recommendation on how to stick new veneer on to sheet
metal with any longevity?
Julian Mullaney

From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 1996 12:55:26 -0500
Subject: incontinent V12

I am trying to trace an annoying oil leak on my 1991 XJS V12. Oil is pooling
on the top of the oil filter and then dripping on the cat.
Wasn’t there a thread a while back about some sort of fitting above the oil
filter that was prone to leaking?
If anyone knows about this could you refresh my memory off-line.
Thanks,
Julian Mullaney

From: Marshall Hollister-Jones marshall@mentor.co.nz
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 08:44:56 +1300
Subject: Re: XJ40 Stereo

I have and '87 XJ40. You already have subwoofers - under the back seat. The
wiring though is a bit strange. The four door speakers are wired as the
front channel and the subwoofers as the rear channel. Just to make life
easier I replaced my radio-cassette with a Beker CD unit in the dash, and
am very pleased with the result. I think the next step might be a separate
amp and rewire the speakers so I have front/rear door speakers and
separate channel for the subwoofers.

To preserve originality you might think about getting an original Jaguar
radio-cassette with CD controls from a later model XJ-40.

You shouldn’t ever need to put any wiring through to the engine bay as is
all there connected to your existing radio-cassette.

From: Stuart Johnson sjohnson@interalpha.co.uk
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: XJ40 Stereo
Date: Sunday, 17 November 1996 05:43

I have recently purchased a 1988 XJ40 (UK model) and I want to replace
the existing stereo system with a CD system. My intentions are to
up-rate the door speaks, with speakers of the same size (4in ?), so as
not to have to cut holes, and put a boxed subwoofer and amp in the boot
along with an autochanger. I intended to drive the door speakers using
the amp in the header unit to keep things simple, and perhaps get a
pair of small tweeters to sit on the dash.

Has anyone got any tips? I would particularly like to know the best
way to route the wiring from the boot to the dash, and from the dash to
the battery.

Stuart.

From: tony goodall tony@goodall.u-net.com
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 1996 20:00:48 +0000
Subject: Re: XJ40 Stereo

At 16:43 16/11/96 -0000, Stuart Johnson wrote:

I have recently purchased a 1988 XJ40 (UK model) and I want to replace
the existing stereo system with a CD system. My intentions are to
up-rate the door speaks, with speakers of the same size (4in ?),

kenwood 2 way. with tweeters on the dash

so as
not to have to cut holes, and put a boxed subwoofer and amp in the boot
along with an autochanger. I intended to drive the door speakers using
the amp in the header unit to keep things simple, and perhaps get a
pair of small tweeters to sit on the dash.

head unit is standard size, ok to put cd changer in

Has anyone got any tips? I would particularly like to know the best
way to route the wiring from the boot to the dash, and from the dash to
the battery.

through top right or left of back seats

problem - not enough air flow from boot to car for subwoofer in boot

also - beware - under back seat are 2 x 4 inch subwoofers (hah hah!!)
these are on the back circuit, all doors to front circuit (in series???)

i.e. needs rewiring

tell me what happens
tony

Dr. A. Goodall       http://www.u-net.com/~goodall/

From: Victor Naumann jagdoc@erols.com
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 1996 15:50:28 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ40 Stereo

Stuart Johnson wrote:

Has anyone got any tips? I would particularly like to know the best
way to route the wiring from the boot to the dash, and from the dash to
the battery.

Stuart.
Remove the rear seat,two screws below seat cushion and lift up and
out.Two screws at the base of back cushion, then push back and up. You
will then see Jag. wiring harness going through the rear bulkhead at
each upper corner. fish your wires through these grommets carefully and
run them under the carpet to the central console tunnel and forward to
radio.
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jag-lovers-digest Sunday, 17 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 528

E-Type Bumper Guards
Cat scratch fever
83 XJ6 S3 AFT Flush - And a BW 66 Band Adjustment Check-Up
XJ-S Rack bushings
Re: XJ40 Stereo
Mexican Jaguar Production
Idle speeds
Veneer refinishing
Re: XJS running temperatures
Re: Cat scratch fever
xk 120
XJ40: Euro-US headlamp preference (again)
Steering symptoms
Julians V12 Oil leak
Re: Veneer refinishing
jag-lovers-digest & xke-lovers
Jag with problem in court case
XJ40 “Check Engine” lamp reset
Re: Steering symptoms
re- XJ-S Rack bushings
S3 XJ6 - coolant refill / funny device in engine bay

From: “Robert J. Richardson” rrichardson@eurekanet.com
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 1996 16:36:12 -0500
Subject: E-Type Bumper Guards

Just received a front bumper guard from Terry’s Jaguar for my 1964 E-Type.
It had been on back order since July 16. Terry’s at the time said the
supplier had had a heart attack (one-man shop?) and weren’t sure if they’d
ever be able to get the guards from that source. Price is $79. This
particular guard fits 61-68 E-Types.

From: Steve Draper s_draper@wcsr.com
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 1996 17:35:17 -0500
Subject: Cat scratch fever

I bumped into a concrete pole that sprang out of nowhere, leaving a
scratch on the rear right side door of my xj-40. Any advice on fixing?
My idea is to go to the dealer and get touch up paint. Thanks.

–Steve
'88 xj-s
'89 xj40vdp
e-mail at:
s_draper@wcsr.com

From: Kyle Chatman kchatman@mail.coin.missouri.edu
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 1996 16:52:09 -0600
Subject: 83 XJ6 S3 AFT Flush - And a BW 66 Band Adjustment Check-Up

ATF Flush
About a week ago I wrote asking for advice on flushing the transmission =
by disconnecting one of the lines at the cooler tube. Receiving no =
answer I tried it on my own today. I’m not sure that the result is =
absolutely superior, but it is relatively easy to do. I will leave it to =
the experts to compare the results versus other methods. My intention =
was to add a couple quarts of Redline Synthetic Type F for good measure, =
but I also wanted to accomplish a more complete flushing of the ATF if =
possible than occurred when I changed the filter a few thousand miles =
ago. I had learned from another list, Swedishbricks, that it is routine =
to disconnect a cooling line and replace fluid as the pump empties the =
transmission. The same can be done with the XJ6 S3.=20

I recommend a two person team. My 13 year old son was the top-side =
member. I was under the car where I disconnected the rubber hose at the =
water cooler tube connection. Disconnect on the exhaust-manifold side of =
the car. (If you disconnect on the intake side the fluid will spray out =
of the tube hole and make a mess.) The disconnected exhaust-side rubber =
hose can then be directed into a plastic gallon container. My son =
started the car and the transmission pumped out fluid in a hurry – =
transmission is left in Park. At two quarts, my son turned the car off =
and we added two quarts of new fluid. We continued to do this for about =
8 quarts worth: pump out two, add two, etc. The last two were Redline =
synthetic. It was very easy and requires only a plain screw driver for =
the clamp and pliers to work the hose loose. You might try this if you =
want to change fluid more frequently than you change AFT filters. I =
think that 3 quarts is about the maximum that can be removed in one =
cycle using this method and it might be possible to keep up with the =
output but my partner didn’t feel comfortable trying.

BW 66 Band Adjustment Check-up
I’m not an expert, I’m barely a novice, but I thought that the following =
two tests should give you some comfort if you are generally satisfied =
with the transmission’s behavior and it doesn’t whine in 2nd gear. (My =
source is a Mitchell publication on transmission available at our public =
library [beginning on page 6-17].) Under full throttle, the shift from 1 =
to 2 should be at 41-51 MPH and the shift from 2 to 3 should occur at =
73-81 MPH. That is the fun test and I recommend that you keep your =
repair manual open on the passenger side in case your stopped by the =
law. The second test I tried was a stall test. I had never done this =
before so it seemed rather strange, but the idea is to pit the engine =
against the brakes and see what RPM you can reach. Engage the emergency =
brake and push with your left foot on the brake pedal. Shift to Drive =
and step on the gas with your right foot and monitor the tach. Make note =
of maximum RPM reached. Don’t try this for more than 10 seconds at a =
time. You should reach 1950-2100 RPM. If your stall speed is higher, =
then clutch or band slippage is indicated.=20

Good luck.
Kyle Chatman

From: “William R. Frenchu” wrf@pluto.njcc.com
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 1996 19:46:00 -0500
Subject: XJ-S Rack bushings

My recent '91 XJ-S steering problem was, indeed, due to bad rack
bushings. Comparing the new bill to the old one, I noticed that
the part numbers used for replacement bushings were different,
even though only a couple of months (and less than 5000 miles) had
passed. Can anyone on the list identify what the following parts are?

Last time they used:
Three (3) JCAC-1635 bushings.

This time it was:
One (1) JCAC-1635 bushing
Two (2) JCBC-9107 bushings.

This dealer has been singularly unresponsive in answering questions.
I’d really like to know why they used different parts this time. They
claimed that the last time the bushings they installed were
“defective”. Steering is once again fine, but I’m hoping I won’t
have to go through this every 5000 miles from now on…

Thanks for any help…

=====================================================================
Bill Frenchu |“Back when I was a
wrf@pluto.njcc.com (609) 466-2604 | boy, we carved our
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/wrf | own IC’s out of wood.”

From: “Stuart Johnson” sjohnson@interalpha.co.uk
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 01:57:52 -0000
Subject: Re: XJ40 Stereo

I have and '87 XJ40. You already have subwoofers - under the back
seat. The
wiring though is a bit strange. The four door speakers are wired as
the
front channel and the subwoofers as the rear channel.

Sub’s? Ha!

You shouldn’t ever need to put any wiring through to the engine bay
as is
all there connected to your existing radio-cassette.

I was thinking about connecting the stereo directly to the battery to
avoid any interference from other devices, and more importantly to
prevent overload to the existing circuit when using higher powered
amps. After all, real sub woofers take up a bit more power than 6W
RMS!

Stuart.

From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 1996 21:54:59 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Mexican Jaguar Production

Group:

I took a few minutes to look up the history of Jaguar production in

Mexico. The best reference for this is John Dugdale’s Jaguar in America.
Dugdale was involved with setting up the Mexico plant while he was working
at the (now defunct) LA office of Jaguar Cars. Mario Padilla, who ran the
Mexico city distributorship (Automoritz Internacional, SA) for both Jaguar
and Fiat, suggested Mexican assembly in 1957, to the head of Jaguar Cars,
US. The idea was that import duty could be avoided if semi-knocked down
(SKD) cars were assembled in Mexico. The Mexican market was percieved as
being ripe for a compact, small engined alternative to North American V8’s,
which had long been assembled south of the border.

The cars were engineered by Buck Hickman, Jaguar’s west coast service
engineer. Reengineering, or respecification, was necessary due to the high
altitude driving conditions encountered in parts of Mexico. Hickman also
detailed a technical report for packaging the SKD cars. Finances were worked
out by the New York office. Jaguar hoped to sell 300-400 cars a year below
the Rio Grande.

Jaguar produced a total of 214 sedans from August 1957 to July 1960. Of
these, 152 had 2.4L motors, 62 had 3.4’s. Production ceased due to action
of the Mexican gov’t cracking down on SKD imports. Dugdale offers the
following SKD shipment statistics (they were shipped in groups of ten) for
1959 and 1960, there is no source for data on earlier production:

                         Serial #'s

Oct 1 1959 LHD 2.4 125003-125012
Nov 9 1959 LHD 2.4 125060-125069
Dec 4 1959 LHD 2.4 125129-125138
Dec30 1959 LHD 2.4 125212-125221
Jan11 1960 LHD 3.4 175281-175290
Jan25 1960 LHD 3.4 175356-175365
Feb 2 1960 LHD 3.4 175401-175410
Apr27 1960 LHD 3.4 175659-175668
May30 1960 LHD 3.4 175752-175761
Jul 1 1960 LHD 3.4 175857-175866

Cars were painted in Mexico. Interior colors were:
Red 39%
Tan 31%
Black 30%

And that’s the story…

Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2

From: “Ernie Laprairie” lapraire@enterprise.cybersurf.net
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 1996 20:05:58 MST
Subject: Idle speeds

Help: Dealer quotes $600.00 plus tax to supply and install auxilary
air valve. Suposedly it’s stuck and creates a fast idle indefinetly
during our cold weather. No overheating here. Does anyone know of a
cure other than replacement.
Ernie Laprairie
http://www.jayman.com
88 xjs The lurker
lapraire@cia.com

From: jello@dns.ida.net (Phil Bates)
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 1996 20:10:37 -0700
Subject: Veneer refinishing

I’m not sure how well this will work, but I plan to do it in the spring. I
have a bare, stripped dash in fairly good condition for my XJ12C that I got
from a list member (spent a couple weeks stripping it earlier this year).
Anyhow, I was in Ernst - sort of a hardware store that is going out of
business - and I picked up some Marine/Exterior Gloss Varathane. I’m hoping
one quart will do it. From reading the can, this product is made to take
weather extremes, and flex with the wood. I’ve heard from some local
sources that Varathane is the best you can buy, and I hope it is true.
Anyone have experience with it?? I plan to put on their walnut stain prior
to the poly. Hopefully it will be one more thing taken care of on my car.

Phil Bates
58 MGA
67 MGB
75 Jaguar XJ12C
52 MG TD replicar (VW)

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 1996 21:22:08 -0500
Subject: Re: XJS running temperatures

BTW, I performed the experiment to see how underhood temp and interior air
intake temp is affected by opening the hood. Haven’t had time to post the
details but the net of it is that underhood temp drops a bunch (no
surprise) and air temp into the windshield plenum is unaffected (what I
expected to find). Guys like us with no spoilers presumably will see more
of a difference.

OOPS, maybe you have a problem.

Just today I tried that same experiment and found NO DIFFERENCE that could
be read on the guage. I tried it twice for over 30 miles on a straight
highway with no stops at 70-80 MPH. I opened the hood at speed, but had to
slow down to relatch it because the bernoulli effect keeps it pulled up. I
decided that louvers wouild be of no help.

I also tried removing the front license plate and could only see a half a
needle width of difference if that much.

I drove 550 miles in 28 hours trying anything I could. The ambient ran from
70 to 85 degrees depending on the time of day.

I have an old “beetle” air dam that I am thinking of attaching as a test.

My needle stayed, AT ALL TIMES, within the limits of the top of the “N” and
one needle width below the “N”. This is an arc of only three needle widths.
When I say stayed within, I mean the top of the needle never got above the
top of the “N” and the bottom of the needle never got further down than one
needle width below the “N”, (not counting starting cold of course) so we are
realy only talking about a movement of TWO needle widths. Not much.

Turning on the AC (which turns on the electric fan) caused a good full
needle width drop but that was the best I could do.

I wish I knew what a needle width represented in temp because regardless of
the calibration that should be a constant for all XJ-S.

I also noted that the guage has the “arc” markings, and the face has the
letter markings. I wonder if the guage can be moved up or down under the
face to change the calibration! If so it would explain why no two guages
are the same when we talk about the letters. My needle stays at about 1/3
of the arc on the guage itself as the arc seems to sit high behind the letters.

So a way to talk intelegently would be to use needle widths and refer to
distances on the arc not in relation to the letters.

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: cobac@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 1996 20:20:38 -0800
Subject: Re: Cat scratch fever

At 05:35 PM 11/16/96 -0500, you wrote:

I bumped into a concrete pole that sprang out of nowhere, leaving a
scratch on the rear right side door of my xj-40. Any advice on fixing?
My idea is to go to the dealer and get touch up paint. Thanks.

–Steve
'88 xj-s
'89 xj40vdp
e-mail at:
s_draper@wcsr.com

Hi,
If your problem is not sever enough to have gone into the paint, you can
try rubbing compound to remove the scratch. I have a black car and if a
light white scratch mark appears, it is usually in the clear coat of the
finish, rubbing the mark with the compound then waxing will usually bring a
light scratch out, and it won’t be as obvius as touch-up paint. Hope this
is of any help.

Regards,
Eric
1989 XJ40-Vanden Plas

From: Jumpem@aol.com
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 1996 23:56:12 -0500
Subject: xk 120

Does anyone out there now of a red xk 120 in the Fairfield county area of
Connecticut license # NR 4579.?I followed him for awhile two weekends ago,
but could’nt get up to him to have a chat. I’d love to get in touch.
Ron
xk 150 dhc

From: cobac@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 1996 21:16:54 -0800
Subject: XJ40: Euro-US headlamp preference (again)

Hi again,
I’m changing to square headlamps in my '89 VDP, I wanted an opinion
again on the square lamps (US VS Non-US).
Non-US lamps have only one bulb each side, US lamps have TWO bulbs each
side. Thus, the glass lens has a little difference in appearance. I am
interested in hearing anyone’s opinion on preference between the U.S. /
Non-US lamps. The lamps I am getting have the only bulb for each side
(Non-US I guess) they are for LHD, I wanted to know if anyone knows if the
difference is really noticeable. Or will it only be noticeable to a paranoid
Jag owner like myself? If it looks to European (as a European car should)
maybe I’ll get a UK plate to finish the front off, that’s if those lamps
don’t look like the American ones (I hope they do).

Many thanks for any comments,
Eric
1989 VDP

From: “Andrew Sandiforth” acer@serv.net
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 1996 21:37:24 -0800
Subject: Steering symptoms

What are the symptoms of ball joint wear?
How do they compare to wear in the steering column linkage?
(1984 SJ6 has about 3/4 in play in the steering wheel and tracks slighty
left or right depending on which side of the play the wheel was last on
before I set the steering wheel straight again)
Maybe I need a good alignment?

From: Peter Smith pjsmith@gil.com.au
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 20:09:07 +1000
Subject: Julians V12 Oil leak

I had the same thing myself, and replaced the O rings leading into the
head assembly without any benefit - the oil would gather around the top
of the filter less than a minute after starting the engine. I
eventually took the head assembly off and found a blanking bolt fitted
to the rear which had a failed fibre sealing washer. Replaced it with a
copper washer - no more leaks. I had to take the head assembly off to
see the bolt but when you know it’s there it may be possible by feel.
Regards Peter Smith

From: Victor Naumann jagdoc@erols.com
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 07:48:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Veneer refinishing

Phil Bates wrote:

From reading the can, this product is made to take
weather extremes, and flex with the wood. I’ve heard from some local
sources that Varathane is the best you can buy, and I hope it is true.
Anyone have experience with it??
Phil Bates
Phil, I have used Varathane paints before with excellant results,long
wearing,chip resistance and a very high gloss. Let us know how it works
over wood.
Vic

From: JagLinks@aol.com
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 08:16:29 -0500
Subject: jag-lovers-digest & xke-lovers

Nick & George:

All of jag-lovers-digest & xke-lovers emails I have received
since Nov 14 got lost in my AOL organizer -
sorry, it was definitely my fault …

Any chance to repeat those mails ?

Thanks in advance :-))

Stephan Perthes
<E-Type 2+2 SI 1966>
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Perthes/jaglinks.htm
<“Hope I die before I get old” (C) 1967 Pete Townshend / The Who.>

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 08:59:45 -0600
Subject: Jag with problem in court case

Since the Jag went into a bay, it seems to me that finding water in any part
of the system would not be unusual, so why blame the Jaguar?

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: RDIAZ@maila.harris.com (RDIAZ)
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 10:07:35 -0500
Subject: XJ40 “Check Engine” lamp reset

 Does anyone know how to reset the "Check Engine" lamp
 on a 1990 XJ40?  The problem that initially lit the 
 lamp has been corrected but the lamp remains on!
 Any help, comments and suggestions are appreciated.
 
 Ricardo Diaz, Melbourne, Florida, USA
 rdiaz@harris.com
 1990 Sovereign
 <end>

From: Bert.Willing@lc.dmx.epfl.ch (Bert Willing)
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 18:09:05 +0100
Subject: Re: Steering symptoms

This weekend I replaced the track rod ends (I think this should be the ball joints?)
on my '84 XJ6. It’s a fairly fast job provided you have a small extractor and that you
don’t move the locknut more than a quarter of a turn.
There was some play before - just the feeling that I always had to do small movements
with the steering wheel even on straight ahead. Acting with a lever on the track rod ends
showed some distinct play.
Now the steering is perfectly direct and precise. I’ll get the jag mechanic this week to check the
alignment for completeness.

Ciao

Bert

What are the symptoms of ball joint wear?
How do they compare to wear in the steering column linkage?
(1984 SJ6 has about 3/4 in play in the steering wheel and tracks slighty
left or right depending on which side of the play the wheel was last on
before I set the steering wheel straight again)
Maybe I need a good alignment?

Bert Willing '84 XJ6 4.2L
Laboratoire de Ceramique - Departement des Materiaux
Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (EPFL), MX-Ecublens, CH-1015 Lausanne
Fone : (+41 21) 693 29 44
Phax : 58 10
email: Bert.Willing@lc.dmx.epfl.ch

------------------------- Eudora 2.1.1 ------------------------------

From: “Richard.Mansell” Richard.Mansell@psemail.ps.net
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 17:00:00 +0000
Subject: re- XJ-S Rack bushings

------ =_0_MIME_Boundary_16233.328f470a.im8nz3w0.eurh021.eur.ps.net
---------------------------- Forwarded with Changes ---------------------------
From: owner-jag-lovers@sn.no%ussmtp at ccx400uk
Date: 11/17/96 12:46AM
To: Richard Mansell at Not-Cop5
*To: jag-lovers@sn.no%ussmtp at ccx400uk
Subject: XJ-S Rack bushings

------ =_0_MIME_Boundary_16233.328f470a.im8nz3w0.eurh021.eur.ps.net

Bill

CAC-1635 x 3 is the standard bush for the rack.

The 1989 part catalogue lists 1 x CAC-1635 and 2 x CBC-5928 for Sports
Pack and 3.6 models. CBC-9107 may be a later number for CBC-5928.

Richard

______________________________ Forward Header __________________________________
Subject: XJ-S Rack bushings
Author: owner-jag-lovers@sn.no%ussmtp at ccx400uk
Date: 17/11/96 00:46

Last time they used:
Three (3) JCAC-1635 bushings.

This time it was:
One (1) JCAC-1635 bushing
Two (2) JCBC-9107 bushings.

------ =_0_MIME_Boundary_16233.328f470a.im8nz3w0.eurh021.eur.ps.net

------ =_0_MIME_Boundary_16233.328f470a.im8nz3w0.eurh021.eur.ps.net–

From: Bert.Willing@lc.dmx.epfl.ch (Bert Willing)
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 18:25:12 +0100
Subject: S3 XJ6 - coolant refill / funny device in engine bay

Hi,

two more stupid questions on my '84 XJ6 :

1 - Yesterday I drained my cooling system by opening one of the big hoses on=
the transmission fluid cooler (maybe I’m stupid but I didn’t find anything=
like a drain plug …) Engine was warm (80 deg C). After no more water was=
coming out. I closed the hose and poured 8 litres anti-freeze into the=
expansion tank and wanted to proceed with 10 litres of water. Nope, the=
system refused more than 1.5 litres of water. This morning I had to refill=
another litre - that’s all. Is there any procedure to get the air out of=
the system other than shaking the car? On my old Saab, there was a vent=
screw provided for this on the thermostat housing. Or did I just empty the=
radiator (which would explain that I had to refill only part of the liquid)=
?

2 - On the rear wall of the engine bay, just right behind the exhaust cam=
cover, there is some bell-like device mounted. On its top there is a=
centered rubber tube going somewhere - I don’t know where to as there are=
just a couple of centimetres of tube left over. What is this device=
supposed to do and where does this hose lead to? I could imagine that it=
has something to do with the heater, a/c system, flap system but the Haynes=
manual doesn’t show a device like this. It is obviously not vital for the=
car - anyhow, I’d like it to do its job.

Thanks for hints

Bert

Bert Willing '84 XJ6 4.2L
Laboratoire de Ceramique - Departement des Materiaux
Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (EPFL), MX-Ecublens, CH-1015 Lausanne
=46one : (+41 21) 693 29 44
Phax : 58 10
email: Bert.Willing@lc.dmx.epfl.ch

------------------------- Eudora 2.1.1 ------------------------------

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #528

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Message-Id: 199611180236.DAA18655@ekeberg.sn.no
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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 18 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 529

power steering overflow - 1991 XJS V12
Re: power steering overflow - 1991 XJS V12
Hard Starts on XJ6
Re: XJ40 “Check Engine” lamp reset
Re: S3 XJ6 - coolant refill / funny device in engine bay
Re XK8
Conv. Top
Re: XJ40 “Check Engine” lamp reset
Worn out key (no jag content)
Heater Core
Re: GM Top engine cleaner
Re: Idle speeds
Low oil pressure (was: Fuel economy)
Missing digests
Re: Heater Core
re: S3 XJ6 - coolant refill / funny device in engine bay
XJ12 reliability
XJ40: Euro-US headlamp preference (again)
Re: 83 XJ6 S3 AFT Flush

From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 12:54:01 -0500
Subject: power steering overflow - 1991 XJS V12

While under the XJS this morning, I was attempting to diagnose the
intermittent steering problem. As the weather has beeen getting colder I
have noticed the power steering has a cyclical weak point as you rotate the
steering wheel. This is very pronounced when it is very cold, but disappears
when the car is really warmed up. It is the same as the “lumps of jello in
my steering fluid” symptom described by another list member (forgot who-
sorry).
So, while under the car I rotated the front wheel from lock to lock by hand
(engine off) and could feel the spots where the rack travel is hard. Same
every time. This eliminates the pump as a problem.
I dread the thought of changing the rack again. Getting to the pipe fittings
is such a bloody pain.
Anyway, after rotating from lock to lock by pushing the front wheels faster
and faster I was quite surprised when all of a sudden a big squirt of very
clean red ps fluid gushed out of the top of the steering pump. About a
cupfull came out in total. Interestingly, the rack seemed to move much more
freely after it relieved itself of this appartently excess fluid all over my
driveway.
The fluid level in the pump still measured a bit high (on the cold scale)
afterwards.
Overall I’m a bit mystified as to what’s going on.

Should the fluid overflow like that when operating the rack manually?

Could the rack malfunction if over-filled with fluid?

I’m actually worried about the damn thing locking up on me one day while
cruising along.

Thanks for any help

Julian Mullaney

From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 10:23:54 -0800
Subject: Re: power steering overflow - 1991 XJS V12

At 12:54 PM 11/17/96 -0500, Juliansean@aol.com wrote:

While under the XJS this morning, I was attempting to diagnose the
intermittent steering problem. As the weather has beeen getting colder I
have noticed the power steering has a cyclical weak point as you rotate the
steering wheel. This is very pronounced when it is very cold, but disappears
when the car is really warmed up. It is the same as the “lumps of jello in
my steering fluid” symptom described by another list member (forgot who-
sorry).

This is a symptom of a worn rack, usually the internal seals are going.

So, while under the car I rotated the front wheel from lock to lock by hand
(engine off) and could feel the spots where the rack travel is hard. Same
every time. This eliminates the pump as a problem.
I dread the thought of changing the rack again. Getting to the pipe fittings
is such a bloody pain.

The fittings aren’t that hard to get to, you just need to unbolt the cooler
and hose anchors and pull the entire assembly back and down to get to the
fittings.

Anyway, after rotating from lock to lock by pushing the front wheels faster
and faster I was quite surprised when all of a sudden a big squirt of very
clean red ps fluid gushed out of the top of the steering pump. About a
cupfull came out in total. Interestingly, the rack seemed to move much more
freely after it relieved itself of this appartently excess fluid all over my
driveway.
The fluid level in the pump still measured a bit high (on the cold scale)
afterwards.
Overall I’m a bit mystified as to what’s going on.

Should the fluid overflow like that when operating the rack manually?

YES. It is a real pain when you are doing other work and you get a gusher
of fluid from the pump overflow.

Could the rack malfunction if over-filled with fluid?

No, only if the fluid is low.

I’m actually worried about the damn thing locking up on me one day while
cruising along.

Haven’t seen it happen yet. I’d get a rebuilt rack and be done with it
though.

Thanks for any help

Julian Mullaney

From: “Dan & Kathy O’Steen” osteen@whidbey.net
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 11:29:18 -0800
Subject: Hard Starts on XJ6

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I’m new to the list and thanks for all the good advice! I have an '81
Jaguar XJ6, S3 and had the same problem with cold starts. The solution was
to replace the thermotime switch located just in front of the coil on the
water manifold. The switch communicates cold starting temp. to the ECU
which then instructs the cold start injector as to how to do it’s “thing”
for the short time it needs to run as the engine is firing. If the switch
is stuck in the open position, it will cause hard starts but will
eventually fire after 8-10 tries (sound familiar?). If the switch is stuck
closed, it will cause flooding, poor acceleration and rough idle. My
Haynes manual describes the procedure for testing the switch, but because
of high miles on the car, I didn’t bother. Instead, I just purchased a new
switch for about $90. US, way more than it should have cost, but now the
car starts on the first try and runs beautifully! Dan

------=_NextPart_000_01BBD47A.91CDC1A0
Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I'm new to the list and thanks for all = the good advice! I have an '81 Jaguar XJ6, S3 and had the same = problem with cold starts. The solution was to replace the = thermotime switch located just in front of the coil on the water = manifold. The switch communicates cold starting temp. to the ECU = which then instructs the cold start injector as to how to do it's = "thing" for the short time it needs to run as the engine is = firing. If the switch is stuck in the open position, it will cause = hard starts but will eventually fire after 8-10 tries (sound familiar?). = If the switch is stuck closed, it will cause flooding, poor = acceleration and rough idle. My Haynes manual describes the = procedure for testing the switch, but because of high miles on the car, = I didn't bother. Instead, I just purchased a new switch for about = $90. US, way more than it should have cost, but now the car starts on = the first try and runs beautifully! Dan

- ------=_NextPart_000_01BBD47A.91CDC1A0--

From: Victor Naumann jagdoc@erols.com
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 15:49:14 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ40 “Check Engine” lamp reset

RDIAZ wrote:

 Does anyone know how to reset the "Check Engine" lamp
 on a 1990 XJ40?  The problem that initially lit the
 lamp has been corrected but the lamp remains on!
 Any help, comments and suggestions are appreciated.

 Disconnecting the battery usually works. On earlier models you could remove the instrament pack fuse from the center console fusebox but I think on 90 and later you risk setting a trans light with that method. We have a PDU ( Portable Diagnostic Unit) in the shop that also works and is the only method for 94 and later cars.

Hope this helps, Vic

From: Victor Naumann jagdoc@erols.com
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 15:56:08 -0500
Subject: Re: S3 XJ6 - coolant refill / funny device in engine bay

Bert Willing wrote:

Hi,

two more stupid questions on my '84 XJ6 :

2 - On the rear wall of the engine bay, just right behind the exhaust cam cover, there is some bell-like device mounted. On its top there is a centered rubber tube going somewhere - I don’t know where to as there are just a couple of centimetres of tube left over. What is this device supposed to do and where does this hose lead to? I could imagine that it has something to do with the heater, a/c system, flap system but the Haynes manual doesn’t show a device like this. It is obviously not vital

Thanks for hints

Bert

That is the heater control valve, receives vacuum signal from heater
control solonoid behind radio and opens to supply hot coolant to heater
core.
There should be a block drain behind the exhaust pipe to help drain
coolant but I usually remove the lower hose.
Regards, Vic

From: “Peter Rebbechi (03) 9275 3374” <"REBBECHI PETER"@A1.MEOC02.SNO.mts.dec.com>
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 21:12:00 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: Re XK8

I had the pleasure of seeing the XK8 in the flesh on
Saturday night at, of all places, a NASCAR track!

It is a beautiful car, but…

The shape is not timeless, and could belong to almost any
manufacturer.
It is not beautiful in the same sense that the E type is.
The E type is still beautiful, and the shape is still
current 30 years later. This in a way that the Xk8 will
never be.

The E type was a definitive shape. the XK8 is not, even
though it is probably a far superior car in every
engineering sense.

Looks like it is back to lusting for E types again!

From: “Jack Bednarski” jackb@epix.com
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 16:44:11 -0500
Subject: Conv. Top

How can I remove polish oversplash from my convertible top. I got a little
around the edges and it leaves a white residue.

Jack Bednarski
71 XKE V12
90 VDP
95 XJS V12 Conv

From: “Yubert K. Fang” yubert@concentric.net
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 14:46:31 -0800
Subject: Re: XJ40 “Check Engine” lamp reset

Hi Ricardo,

This has happened to me several times. The only way I’ve been able to
clear this light is to disconnect the battery and wait a minute or so
before reconnecting. I’ve tried just shutting off the battery switch
but was told by a Jaguar dealer that there’s still current running
through the system.

If your car has Jaguar’s remote security system then you also need to
reset your remote alarm key when the battery is reconnected. This is
done by pressing the button on the alarm key, five (5) times, in
synchronization with your honking horn.

The manual also says something about having to reprogram the Jaguar car
stereo whenever power is lost, but I’ve never had to do this. It’s
supposed to be a theft deterrent feature.

Hope this helps.

—Yubert

RDIAZ wrote:

 Does anyone know how to reset the "Check Engine" lamp
 on a 1990 XJ40?  The problem that initially lit the
 lamp has been corrected but the lamp remains on!
 Any help, comments and suggestions are appreciated.

 Ricardo Diaz, Melbourne, Florida, USA
 rdiaz@harris.com
 1990 Sovereign
 <end>

From: “John Littler” auibmdak@ibmmail.com
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 17:58:34 EST
Subject: Worn out key (no jag content)

Following long and exhaustive discussions regarding certain vehicles we
are no longer allowed to mention…my DELETE key is worn out - can any-
one tell me where to get a new (genuinejaguar of course) delete key and
detailed instructions on it’s fitting.

AND NO I DON’T WANT TO HEAR ABOUT SPLITTING THE @#$%c%$%# LIST AGAIN !!!
(that’s what that key was invented for)

John

Level 1, 29-57 Christie St.
St Leonards NSW 2065
Ph: +61-2-9937-8063 Fax: +61-2-9937-8100
Mobile +61-419-617-619

From: “Kevin P. Campbell” kckckc@qni.com
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 17:11:19 -0800
Subject: Heater Core

Would anyone advise as a temporary stop-gap measure the addition of a
tube of radiator sealant to the system to aid in the elimination of a
slight defroster fog ( undoubtedly caused by a pin hole leak in the
core) to help stem the tide till I can get this car from Kansas City to
Dallas and into a garage for repairs? I’m hesitant because I hate
gumming up the works. Did I misunderstand that at one time it was
recommended by Jag as an annual ritual?

How does one get a hole in the heater core with relatively good coolant
maintenance? (presuming the PO did not lie through his teeth!) It’s been
trouble free for the past two years in my care.

Kev
85 XJ-6

From: “Jonah M. Rounseville” RVILLE@acadia.net
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 19:04:36 -0500
Subject: Re: GM Top engine cleaner

David Hurlston wrote:

A word of caution here. The stuff really works, which means chunks of
carbon get unglued from the pistons and hopefully get blown out of the exhaust.

If you are unlucky the chunks of carbon go where they shouldn’t, such as
sticking in the valves or getting down into the piston rings. That can get
expensive.

Overall, I wouldn’t use it.

By the way, I did this once on a car. I had heard that clouds of smoke
result during the process so I drove a couple of miles out to an unpopulated
area and did the job. There were indeed clouds of smoke that just didn’t
quit. I got tired of waiting and drove home thinking it would soon stop.
It didn’t. It was a beautiful sunny day and people were out and about,
walking, riding bicycles etc. Here I came followed by a huge cloud of white
smoke. As I drove along, I could see the expressions on peoples faces
change from curiosity to alarm to downright fear, then they were lost in the
cloud as I drove by. I hope they lived.

Dave
David Hurlston, ViaData Incorporated

Please note:


As a former Chevrolet technician and now Service Manager, I must

defend the use of top engine cleaner a bit. If the product is used AS directed, there is
a very slim chance of doing any damage to rings,
valves, etc. This product is designed to clean from the throttle body
out, and does so very well. It is not uncommon for our techs. to use
it while performing a tune-up, and I’ve never seen any damage as a result. As for smoke

- there should be no white smoke, rather blue, as
  this is a petroleum type product; the smoke (and odor) usually dissipates within a few
  minutes of restart. This is my expert opinion,
  I respect yours…

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 18 Nov 96 10:39:18
Subject: Re: Idle speeds

$600 is a long way over the top for this job. There are two alternatives: one
expensive and one cheap.

Expensive: Get a service exchange valve and replace it yourself (simple job,
once you remove the left side air cleaner). This valve is a dopey slider design
and prone to jamming, so even a new one may only last you a year or two.

You may try to dismantle and clean the valve yourself; the brass bulb at the
bottom can be pressed out if you make up a special tool with six flat-ended
pins to pass through the holes in the valve slider (from the top).

Cheap: Take the filter out of the left air cleaner. Tie a very small piece of
rag to a piece of string, start the engine and let the vacuum suck the rag into
the small (3/4in?) pipe in the lower rear part of the air cleaner backing
plate. The aim is to block the cold idle bypass hole in the AA valve, which is
maybe 3/8in square. Fiddle until you get a reasonable warm idle (between 700
and 800 rpm), which indicates that the hole is blocked. The string is so you
can change your mind, so don’t lose it…

This method means that you may have to support the engine with the throttle
right after a really cold start; in my own case (coldest: just freezing) there
is no problem whatever; cold idle is around 1,000 rpm and settles to 750 after
the cold start enrichment stops. I got sick of replacing AA valves and did the
rag trick about a year ago.

-Jan

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 18 Nov 96 9:56:27
Subject: Low oil pressure (was: Fuel economy)

Not to worry. Oil pressure is not important except as an indication that the
oil pump and pressure relief valve are working. 55psi is the normal PR valve
opening pressure for the V12 and “next to nothing” is what you expect to see at
hot idle with a worn engine. 45 psi at highway speeds (at least 3,000 rpm)
indicates that your engine is very worn indeed and you should start saving up
for an overhaul. Specifically, the low pressure is caused by large main and
con-rod bearing clearances. Heavier oil can bring up the pressure a bit; I use
Castrol GTX2 (SAE 10-40), which is the recommended grade.

-Jan

From: “John Littler” auibmdak@ibmmail.com
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 19:40:53 EST
Subject: Missing digests

Yeah, I’ve had a few go bush also, I’ve just put it down to the vagaries
of the multiple servers it gets handled by in order to get here. I
usually go to the jag web site (http://www.sn.no/home/nick/jaguar.html
for those who’ve forgotten)to pick up the back issues for my records.

The one I find interesting is they quite often come in out of order,
i.e 518 after 519- this usually happens with them coming in quite close
together so a mail server somewhere is holding onto them I guess.

Two issues in a row never showed up.
Are a lot of digest-subscribers seeing dropped issues in their
subscriptions?This is the third & fouth instance of this happening to
me.
Robert MacLeay (rmac@aol.com)
1990 XJ40 VdP Majestic

Level 1, 29-57 Christie St.
St Leonards NSW 2065
Ph: +61-2-9937-8063 Fax: +61-2-9937-8100
Mobile +61-419-617-619

From: Victor Naumann jagdoc@erols.com
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 19:37:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Heater Core

Kevin P. Campbell wrote:

Would anyone advise as a temporary stop-gap measure the addition of a
tube of radiator sealant to the system to aid in the elimination of a
slight defroster fog .

Jaguar used to recommend that radiator sealant be added when changing
coolant every two years. We found that it invariably clogges the heater
core and sometimes the upper part of the radiator. As a temp. measure it
will probably work,but flush the system thoroughly when you have the
heater core replaced.
Regards,Vic

From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 96 16:46:00 PST
Subject: re: S3 XJ6 - coolant refill / funny device in engine bay

Bert writes:

1 - Yesterday I drained my cooling system by opening one of the big
hoses on= the transmission fluid cooler -snip-
Is there any procedure to get the air out of=
the system other than shaking the car?

I ‘burp’ the system by squeezing one or both of the big radiator hoses.
Squeeze it a bunch of times rapidly, this moves coolant around and helps
get the air to the top. Add coolant, repeat till done. And you’ll need
to run the car with the heater on as well. Watch your fingers around
the belts and fan!

2 - On the rear wall of the engine bay, just right behind the exhaust
cam= cover, there is some bell-like device mounted. On its top there
is a= centered rubber tube going somewhere - I don’t know where to as
there are= just a couple of centimetres of tube left over. What is this
device= supposed to do and where does this hose lead to? I could
imagine that it= has something to do with the heater, a/c system, flap
system but the Haynes=
manual doesn’t show a device like this. It is obviously not vital for
the= car - anyhow, I’d like it to do its job.

If it’s behind the intake cam cover,that’s the heater control valve.
The skinny rubber tube that comes out of the top center is the vacuum
line to control the valve. That line goes to the climate control
system, somewhere inside the dashboard. If you have trouble finding
where it goes, holler and I’ll try to find it on my car (but behind the
dashboard is a difficult place to find anything!).

Best,

David
'84XJ6 VDP

From: ajbeale@squirrel.com.au (A.J. Beale)
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 11:12:21 +1000 (EST)
Subject: XJ12 reliability

In talking to various people who have owned or have otherwise had experience
with a number of different Jaguars, the model that keeps coming up as one of
the best Jaguars saloons ever made, is the XJ12 of the mid to late 80s. I
know that, many years ago, Enzio(?) Ferrari described Jag’s V12 as the
finest motor car production engine in the world. Its reputation here (at
least for the later models) is that it will do half a million km before a
major overhaul and the same distance again after it. This would indicate to
me that the XJ12 of about 1987 to 1989 would be the Jag saloon by which all
others should be judged. Here, good ones are as scarce as hen’s teeth
because owners don’t like parting with them, but fuel costs can be a bit
offputting.
I would very much appreciate hearing from past or present owners of XJ12s
(or Daimler Double 6s) - preferably 1987/1989 - whether or not their
experience confirms what I hear about these cars. Thanks. Alan

From: ajbeale@squirrel.com.au (A.J. Beale)
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 11:28:03 +1000 (EST)
Subject: XJ40: Euro-US headlamp preference (again)

I’m changing to square headlamps in my '89 VDP, I wanted an opinion again
on the square lamps
(US VS Non-US).
Eric: I can’t give you a comparison, but my 1989 XJ40 Sovereign has the
square headlamps and for night driving where you can use high beams, these
are at least equal to any headlamps I have so far encountered. However, I
have had no experience with the latest projector lamps. Alan.

From: sfisher@sola.com.au (Scott Fisher)
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 96 23:40 CST
Subject: Re: 83 XJ6 S3 AFT Flush

Kyle Chatman wrote …

ATF Flush
About a week ago I wrote asking for advice on flushing the transmission =
by disconnecting one of the lines at the cooler tube. Receiving no =
answer I tried it on my own today. I’m not sure that the result is =
[deleted…]
The disconnected exhaust-side rubber =
hose can then be directed into a plastic gallon container. My son =
started the car and the transmission pumped out fluid in a hurry – =
transmission is left in Park. At two quarts, my son turned the car off =
[deleted…]

Kyle, sorry I didn’t see your earlier call for help. The factory manual
suggests this procedure when the system needs to be flushed after ATF
contamination. It also recommends it when you are putting in a rebuilt
trans to clean out the cooler & lines. The only difference to what you
did was to suggesr over-filling the transmission in 2 quart amounts and
flush two out etc.

The one that I have been interested in is flushing the power-steering
system. Ideas?

Regards Scott.

Scott Fisher [sfisher@sola.com.au] PH: +61 08 329-28341.

                                                         _--_|\    N

SOLA / \ W + E
International Holdings Research Center _.–_/ S
Adelaide, South Australia. v

Joy ia a Jaguar XJ6 with a flat battery, a blown oil seal and an
unsympathetic wife, 9km outside of a small remote town, 3:15am on
a cold wet winters morning.

SOLA?- Opthalmic Lens Manufacturer, unless all those transparent disks
we make are part of some secret conspiracy to make transparent disks!

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #529

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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 18 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 530

Re: power steering overflow - 1991 XJS V12
Re: XJ-S Purging air from heater core
Low oil pressure (was: Fuel economy)
Re: Missing digests
[XJ6 s3] Too cool?
Jaguar Magazine Online
RE: [XJ6 s3] Too cool?
RE: Heater Core
Re: [XJ6 s3] Too cool?
Windshield chrome trim. XJ
Re[2]: Heater Core
Re: [XJ6 s3] Too cool?
V12 cold start problems / surging
RE: Re[2]: Heater Core
Re[4]: Heater Core
Re[4]: H & E
Cyclists - No Jag Content
E-Type sought in UK
RE: Heater Core

From: Curt Onstott onstottc@ucs.orst.edu
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 18:59:37 -0800
Subject: Re: power steering overflow - 1991 XJS V12

Juliansean@aol.com wrote:

While under the XJS this morning, I was attempting to diagnose the
intermittent steering problem. As the weather has beeen getting colder I…

Hmmm… I’ve heard of intermittent wipers. When did Jaguar add
intermittent steering? Is this like anti-lock doors?

-Pessimist: “This ship is sinking.” -Optimist: “This ship is half full.”

Curt Onstott - Windows/DOS/PC Specialist - Information Services -
Oregon
State University. - (541) 737-1483 - Office: Kerr 217

From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 22:40:10 GMT
Subject: Re: XJ-S Purging air from heater core

In message M8890.001.yxwp0.1.961116150513Z.CC-MAIL*/O=CCMAIL/PRMD=PSE/ADMD=MCI/C=GB/@MHS “Richard.Mansell” writes:

 I will try running the car for a bit with the heater on defrost. I do
 get the odd gurgle from the heating system in the first minute or two
 so I think air is still in there.

When I replaced the hose from the block to the heater water valve with a
bit of off-the-reel stuff rather than a properly sculpted piece that section
woud up being slightly higher than the rest of the coolant circuit and air
collected in there, resulting in gurgling noises at startup. Replacing it
again with the proper sculpted hose made the gurgling go away.

Reagrds,

Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 1996 22:16:29 -0600
Subject: Low oil pressure (was: Fuel economy)

Not to worry. Oil pressure is not important except as an indication that the
oil pump and pressure relief valve are working. 55psi is the normal PR valve
opening pressure for the V12 and “next to nothing” is what you expect to
see at
hot idle with a worn engine. 45 psi at highway speeds (at least 3,000 rpm)
indicates that your engine is very worn indeed and you should start saving up
for an overhaul. Specifically, the low pressure is caused by large main and
con-rod bearing clearances. Heavier oil can bring up the pressure a bit; I use
Castrol GTX2 (SAE 10-40), which is the recommended grade.

I beg to differ here. This MAY be a worn engine, or it could be excessive
heat. The symptoms would be the same.

If it is overheating there is plenty of reason to worry!!

But if it is overheating it is easily fixed.

I think its heat since the car starts at 55 and then when warm at highway
speeds it drops to only 45. The realy low idle temp also points to heat.

Should be easy to diagnose, is the temp guage above the “N”?

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 06:14:42 +0100
Subject: Re: Missing digests

[ “John Littler” auibmdak@ibmmail.com ]
| Yeah, I’ve had a few go bush also, I’ve just put it down to the vagaries
| of the multiple servers it gets handled by in order to get here. I
| usually go to the jag web site (http://www.sn.no/home/nick/jaguar.html
| for those who’ve forgotten)to pick up the back issues for my records.

This weekeng I discovered a feature of Majordomo that I hadn’t
noticed before. If you send a message to majordomo@sn.no with
the line “index jag-lovers-digest” in the body, you receive
back a list of all the digests compiled since Jag-lovers moved
to Norway. To retreive a digest you send a GET-message, the exact
syntax can be found by sending a “Help” message to Majordomo.

Nick

<<< Nick Johannessen | nick@sn.no | nickj on IRC >>>
<<< Jaguar XJ6 4.2 '70 MOD & '82 Auto >>>

The JagWeb http://www.sn.no/~nick/jaguar.html <<<

From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 08:59:41 +0100
Subject: [XJ6 s3] Too cool?

Something I’ve been wondering about for a while now. My 1982 Euro-spec XJ6
never reaches the green zone on the coolant temp gauge. The green part
starts at 90 degress, but I’m never over 80. I also noticed the other
day when I started up and stood idling for 5 minutes that it was spewing
out exhaust, enough to make quite a cloud.

It’s not using any oil, or at least not much (running 20w50) and there is
no loss of cooleant. Temperature stays pretty much constant at 70-80.
Although I haven’t measured how much fuel it gulps down it does seem to
get through the tanks pretty quick… (Measuring fuel consumption is too
depressing, pay by card and don’t check the bills…).

A “Jaguar specialist” in the UK once fitted what looks like a small
resistor to the electrickery, claiming this was an official modification
to save petrol on start up. Sound bogus?

Is there something I could do to fix it, or should I export it to Arizona?

Nick

From: jagmag@ecn.net.au (Hughes Graphics and Design)
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 17:58:41 +1000
Subject: Jaguar Magazine Online

I have had a number of very kind Jag-Lovers subscribers drop me mail with
regards to the Jaguar Magazine Online site
(http://www.firehorse.com/jaguar). They have made requests with regards to
the articles we have previously published in our hard-copy magazine since
1984 and which could be published at this site, or have made constructive
suggestions as to which way to progress with it as a total.

If other readers here would like to pass on their constructive thoughts I
would be pleased to hear from them since this means of communication is so
new.

We could put up vitrually the entire contents of our hard-copy magazine (76
pages) as it is published (photographs included), and then we could all be
reading the same thing on all types of subjects and models. However, this
would be expensive and I imagine it would have to be offered on a
subscription basis as it would be more than I could afford to do just for
the fun of it.

Do I just put a few things in as as be done so far? Or do I get into it
more seriously as a magazine for us all over the world since the web allows
us to get to places would only have dream of? We come out Australia, but we
are all the same whether we are in Iceland, the USA or Coventry.

This not, and never will be competition to Jag-Lovers, which is fabulous,
but is another means of enjoying our cars, the Jaguar cammeraderie and
reading a Jaguar-only magazine at a reasonable price since we don’t have to
worry about freight costs and the like.

Exciting, but puzzling times!

Kindest regards

LES. HUGHES

From: Graham Watson grahamw@microsoft.com
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 01:26:00 -0800
Subject: RE: [XJ6 s3] Too cool?

First thing to do is to replace the thermostat - if it’s opening too
soon, or leaking, your engine will stay too cool, possibly keeping the
car on the EFI equivalent of choke, hence the high fuel consumption. I
believe the thermostats for Jags are all 88 degree, so your car should
be running just above this.

Thermostats are quite cheap, it’s probably not worth messing around !

Graham

-----Original Message-----
From: Nick Johannessen [SMTP:nick@sn.no]
Sent: Monday, November 18, 1996 8:00 AM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: [XJ6 s3] Too cool?

Something I’ve been wondering about for a while now. My 1982 Euro-spec XJ6
never reaches the green zone on the coolant temp gauge. The green part
starts at 90 degress, but I’m never over 80. I also noticed the other
day when I started up and stood idling for 5 minutes that it was spewing
out exhaust, enough to make quite a cloud.

It’s not using any oil, or at least not much (running 20w50) and there is
no loss of cooleant. Temperature stays pretty much constant at 70-80.
Although I haven’t measured how much fuel it gulps down it does seem to
get through the tanks pretty quick… (Measuring fuel consumption is too
depressing, pay by card and don’t check the bills…).

A “Jaguar specialist” in the UK once fitted what looks like a small
resistor to the electrickery, claiming this was an official modification
to save petrol on start up. Sound bogus?

Is there something I could do to fix it, or should I export it to Arizona?

Nick

From: Graham Watson grahamw@microsoft.com
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 01:34:44 -0800
Subject: RE: Heater Core

Jaguar recommend the addition of a bottle of “Barrs-Leaks” to the
cooling system - not just to stop leaks, but also to help reduce
corrosion, lubricate moving parts etc. If you haven’t got this in your
system, adding a bottle can’t hurt.

Graham

-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin P. Campbell [SMTP:kckckc@qni.com]
Sent: Monday, November 18, 1996 1:11 AM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Heater Core

Would anyone advise as a temporary stop-gap measure the addition of a
tube of radiator sealant to the system to aid in the elimination of a
slight defroster fog ( undoubtedly caused by a pin hole leak in the
core) to help stem the tide till I can get this car from Kansas City to
Dallas and into a garage for repairs? I’m hesitant because I hate
gumming up the works. Did I misunderstand that at one time it was
recommended by Jag as an annual ritual?

How does one get a hole in the heater core with relatively good coolant
maintenance? (presuming the PO did not lie through his teeth!) It’s been
trouble free for the past two years in my care.

Kev
85 XJ-6

From: Bert.Willing@lc.dmx.epfl.ch (Bert Willing)
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 11:41:21 +0100
Subject: Re: [XJ6 s3] Too cool?

Hi Nick,

mine is a Swiss-spec 84 XJ6 (the specs should be the same as for you). Me=
too, I have the temperature always in the 80 deg C range and I can make it=
enter the green range only on two occasions: 1. 20 minutes stop and go=
downtown during the rush hours (Lausanne is all up and down, with slopes in=
excess of 10% and VERY silly traffic lights …), and 2. 15 minutes above=
180 km/h on the highway (well, I’m going to France quite often, and as I=
used to live ther, I know the radar spots quite well …)

Me too, I have wet spots below each exhaust pipe on the floor when idling a=
couple of minutes in the parking lot - I can see the water coming out.=
Should be condensate as my car doesn’t eat water or oil.

Talking fuel consumption - I’m getting depressed when I hear people=
reporting more than 20 mpg.
My cat sucks 18-20 litres if I go 140 km/h on the highway or these windy=
mountain roads. I’m trying to figure out what it is like when cruising with=
100 km/h but 1. it’s so boring 2. there are always considerable downtown=
parts included. Maybe I’ll try once with the right tank for highway and the=
left one for downtown use.

Thinking about buying some shares of Royal Dutch Shell …

Ciao

Bert

----=20

Something I’ve been wondering about for a while now. My 1982 Euro-spec XJ6
never reaches the green zone on the coolant temp gauge. The green part=20
starts at 90 degress, but I’m never over 80. I also noticed the other
day when I started up and stood idling for 5 minutes that it was spewing
out exhaust, enough to make quite a cloud.

It’s not using any oil, or at least not much (running 20w50) and there is
no loss of cooleant. Temperature stays pretty much constant at 70-80.=20
Although I haven’t measured how much fuel it gulps down it does seem to=20
get through the tanks pretty quick… (Measuring fuel consumption is too
depressing, pay by card and don’t check the bills…).

A “Jaguar specialist” in the UK once fitted what looks like a small=20
resistor to the electrickery, claiming this was an official modification
to save petrol on start up. Sound bogus?=20

Is there something I could do to fix it, or should I export it to Arizona?

Nick

Bert Willing '84 XJ6 4.2L
Laboratoire de Ceramique - Departement des Materiaux
Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (EPFL), MX-Ecublens, CH-1015 Lausanne
=46one : (+41 21) 693 29 44
Phax : 58 10
email: Bert.Willing@lc.dmx.epfl.ch

------------------------- Eudora 2.1.1 ------------------------------

From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 12:06:17 -0800
Subject: Windshield chrome trim. XJ

To Terry Tegner:

Although you didn’t ask, I’ll answer since the question is bound to come up. The
chrome strip surrounding the windshield (as well as the back light) is supposed
to be glued to the rubber seal with a particular Bostik glue (can’t recall the
exact designation) The glue should be of the kind that is very sticky, but not
permanent.

To get the chrome trim back under the lips of the seal is a bit of a struggle,
though, particularely around the lower corners of the windshield. Use a cord or
a nylon line and lots of lubricant.

Good luck!
Bard

______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no

From: “Claus, Mike” claus@wg.com
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 96 07:52:49 EST
Subject: Re[2]: Heater Core

    Yes - it can hurt.  Don't do it! This is nasty stuff that 
    clogs up your radiator and really doesn't do much to help in 
    the meantime.
    
    - mclaus
    
    '93 XJ-S Convertible

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RE: Heater Core
Author: Graham Watson grahamw@microsoft.com at WG-RAL-SMTP
Date: 11/18/96 5:23 AM

Jaguar recommend the addition of a bottle of “Barrs-Leaks” to the
cooling system - not just to stop leaks, but also to help reduce
corrosion, lubricate moving parts etc. If you haven’t got this in your
system, adding a bottle can’t hurt.

Graham

-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin P. Campbell [SMTP:kckckc@qni.com]
Sent: Monday, November 18, 1996 1:11 AM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Heater Core

Would anyone advise as a temporary stop-gap measure the addition of a
tube of radiator sealant to the system to aid in the elimination of a
slight defroster fog ( undoubtedly caused by a pin hole leak in the
core) to help stem the tide till I can get this car from Kansas City to
Dallas and into a garage for repairs? I’m hesitant because I hate
gumming up the works. Did I misunderstand that at one time it was
recommended by Jag as an annual ritual?

How does one get a hole in the heater core with relatively good coolant
maintenance? (presuming the PO did not lie through his teeth!) It’s been
trouble free for the past two years in my care.

Kev
85 XJ-6

From: Volker Nadenau nadenau@ipers1.e-technik.uni-stuttgart.de
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 15:12:57 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: [XJ6 s3] Too cool?

Hi Bert, hi Nick,
my 81 XJ12 is operating also in the cool region of the temperature gauge.
Same as Berts one it rarely reaches the beginning of the green area. It
needs driving the cat at around 200km/h for quite a while. But the fuel
consumption is a bit lower than in Berts case. For an average speed of
140km/h it sucks about 16l/100km. In downtown traffic it can be easily
more than 20l/100km.

Regards

Volker

Volker Nadenau Phone: ++49 711 685 7200
University of Stuttgart Fax : ++49 711 685 7143
Institute for Physical Electronics Internet: nadenau@ipers1.e-technik.uni-stuttgart.de
Pfaffenwaldring 47
70569 Stuttgart
Germany

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 15:28:45 +0100 (MET)
Subject: V12 cold start problems / surging

There have been several problems reported with V12 engine cold start problems
and surging. Over the week-end I’d put together a little box that is wired
in paralell to the water temp sensor, so I could either disable it or simulate
60C or 95C. So off we went, and at cold no real difference. After about 15kms
the engine stalled and would not start again. (even with the little box
turned off). After messing around a fwe minutes it started again.
(This was the first time ever we had a stall problem.) We had the same
occurance another time. When the engine started, I held the throttle open
and had been surging from 2000rpm to 4000rpm.

I then removed the paralell wiring harness,
and everything ok from there. So I guess we might have seen a problem
where garbage pulses where picked (maybe from the ignition) causing these
problems. I plan to do another test with shielded cables, but something
you guys with surging problems want to verify is that the water temp
harness is at the original place …

- Matthias

From: Graham Watson grahamw@microsoft.com
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 06:44:35 -0800
Subject: RE: Re[2]: Heater Core

Disagree, and so do Jaguar.

But if you have evidence to back up your statement, I’d really like to
hear it !

Graham

-----Original Message-----
From: Claus, Mike [SMTP:claus@wg.com]
Sent: Monday, November 18, 1996 12:53 PM
To: Graham Watson; kckckc@qni.com; jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Re[2]: Heater Core
   Yes - it can hurt.  Don't do it! This is nasty stuff that 
   clogs up your radiator and really doesn't do much to help in 
   the meantime.
   
   - mclaus
   
   '93 XJ-S Convertible
______________________________ Reply Separator

Subject: RE: Heater Core
Author: Graham Watson grahamw@microsoft.com at WG-RAL-SMTP
Date: 11/18/96 5:23 AM

Jaguar recommend the addition of a bottle of “Barrs-Leaks” to the
cooling system - not just to stop leaks, but also to help reduce
corrosion, lubricate moving parts etc. If you haven’t got this in your
system, adding a bottle can’t hurt.

Graham

-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin P. Campbell [SMTP:kckckc@qni.com]
Sent: Monday, November 18, 1996 1:11 AM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Heater Core

Would anyone advise as a temporary stop-gap measure the addition of a
tube of radiator sealant to the system to aid in the elimination of a
slight defroster fog ( undoubtedly caused by a pin hole leak in the
core) to help stem the tide till I can get this car from Kansas City to
Dallas and into a garage for repairs? I’m hesitant because I hate
gumming up the works. Did I misunderstand that at one time it was
recommended by Jag as an annual ritual?

How does one get a hole in the heater core with relatively good coolant
maintenance? (presuming the PO did not lie through his teeth!) It’s been
trouble free for the past two years in my care.

Kev
85 XJ-6

From: “Claus, Mike” claus@wg.com
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 96 10:52:43 EST
Subject: Re[4]: Heater Core

This topic has been discussed a number of times since I have been on the list -
less than a year. You might want to go back through the archives and see what
other folks have already said. My understanding is as follows

Jaguar no longer recommends this product.
The material tends to form a solid gunk which drops to the bottom and fills
up the cracks in the radiator. Over time it will significantly reduce the
cooling capacity of the radiator.

My radiator is pretty new, and I have not used this stuff - so I have no real
direct experience. But I have headrd complaints about having to remove the
Barrs’ Leaks residue from radiators from a great many folks.

Others on the list will have more direct experience.

- mclaus

'93 XJ-S Convertible

Disagree, and so do Jaguar.

But if you have evidence to back up your statement, I’d really like to
hear it !

Graham

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 10:47:34 -0600
Subject: Re[4]: H & E

If you have the H&E manual, you have everything I have. Mine is a copy I
got from another (former) H&E owner on the list. I’m missing a few pages,
so maybe I should be sending you $$ for materials and postage! Also, I’d
be interested if you have any H&E service bulletins.

My A/C compressor runs continuously to cool the fuel. This is a result of
an H&E specific recall. I think the recall was in '89.

MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Re[2]: H & E
Author: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com at Internet
Date: 11/15/1996 9:55 PM

I did have the manual and the tech drawings from Hess and I’m sure I still do…

If it is summer, the top is down… the AC system is off. No cool fuel. Vapor
lock from hell.

Tim Blystone

From: “Martin Fooks” Martin.Fooks@centurasoft.com
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 96 15:34:13 PST
Subject: Cyclists - No Jag Content

 I have had the benefit of seeing the good and the bad with cycling and 
 cyclists in mind.
 
 I lived in London for two years where, as was pointed out before, the 
 cycle couriers are a complete law unto themselves (I had one of my 
 colleagues put briefly in hospital by a hit and run courier as she 
 turned a corner, on the sidewalk!).  When you see these idiots (I 
 still think they are only the minority) combined with an environment 
 with no safe place for them to cycle it does tend to make you think of 
 the cycle as only an irritating toy.
 
 I have however lived in Amsterdam for the last 2 years and have 
 changed my views a lot.  In Holland we have proper cycle lanes 
 everywhere which stops cars and bikes from fighting over the same 
 piece of road.  The cycle is NOT a toy in Holland, it is by far the 
 best method of getting around town (or any journey that does not 
 require an Olympic training strategy).
 
 With pollution and the environment on our minds shouldn't we be 
 looking at how to turn a menace into a useful form of transport for 
 local journeys?  I do agree that these 100+ strong groups of cyclists 
 blocking roads in protest seem to do more harm than good, but at least 
 they have the right idea that more cycle-lanes are good for everyone 
 concerned.
 
 Martin (flamesuit at the ready) Fooks
 
 P.S. If Jaguar built a cycle I would buy it and swap the Lucas 
 headlights at the earliest opportunity.

From: “Martin Fooks” Martin.Fooks@centurasoft.com
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 96 16:13:02 PST
Subject: E-Type sought in UK

 If anyone knows of E-types (any sound mechanical example considered) 
 for sale in the UK which seem to be good value for money, could they 
 please let me know?
 
 I have currently packed my Nitrous powered XJS away for the winter in 
 favour of one of those modern BMW thingies (loads of power, fairly 
 wide rubber and a modified TH400 don't make the Jag the safest thing 
 to be driving on ice, and it's far too pretty to be seen wrapped 
 around a post).
 
 I have put off selling the toy until now as I have REAL problems 
 getting rid of something that I enjoy using, the old "If I can't have 
 her, nobody can!!!" mentality that I have to get out of.
 
 I will now be looking to sell or part-ex, but only to get the 
 aforementioned XKE :-)
 
 Any help greatly appreciated - Martin Fooks
 
 Mobile : +31 (0)653 943629
 Home : +31 (0)20 4191731
 Work (9:00-17:30 CET): +31 (0)346 586868
 E-Mail : Martin.Fooks@CenturaSoft.COM
 E-Mail2: Martin.Fooks@InternetDesign.COM
 URL: HTTP://www.internetdesign.com/mrfooks
 
 (sorry about my bike post Nick... I was catching up on my return from 
 a 5 day business trip).

From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 12:09:30 GMT
Subject: RE: Heater Core

In message c=US%a=_%p=msft%l=WSH-01-MSG-961118093444Z-38533@INET-05-IMC.itg.microsoft.com Graham Watson writes:

Jaguar recommend the addition of a bottle of “Barrs-Leaks” to the
cooling system - not just to stop leaks, but also to help reduce
corrosion, lubricate moving parts etc. If you haven’t got this in your
system, adding a bottle can’t hurt.

With respect, I beg to differ. This stuff was the #1 cause of cooling
system problems in my car. Although mine is a V12 and your reply was to
a question from a straight 6 owner, I believe blind faith in Jaguar’s
recommendation to put in Barr’s leaks is only likely to increase Jaguar’s
spares business.

Regards,

Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #530

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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 19 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 531

RE: Low oil pressure (was: Fuel economy)
switch to xke list
[XJ6 s3] Too cool?
RE: Heater Core
RE: Re[2]: Heater Core
front end shake
XJ-S: Final Drive Additive?
Re: front end shake
Re: Chassis shakes/ driveshaft balance
XJ-S: Correct thermostats?
SIII Heater Operation
Cyclists on Jag listserve
XJ6 S3 too cool
Re: front end shake
Re: XJ-S: Final Drive Additive?
XJ-6 Re: Heater Core & Fogging
Re: XJ-S: Correct thermostats?
Oil Pressure
RE: Heater Core
E-Type brake bleed
Oxygenated fuels

From: Aaron Burnett aaron.burnett@attws.com
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 08:47:38 -0800
Subject: RE: Low oil pressure (was: Fuel economy)

Point of clarification: It’s not heat. The highest the needle ever
gets to is right on the “N”.

Aaron

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu[SMTP:JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu]
Sent: Sunday, November 17, 1996 8:16 PM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Low oil pressure (was: Fuel economy)

Not to worry. Oil pressure is not important except as an indication that the
oil pump and pressure relief valve are working. 55psi is the normal PR valve
opening pressure for the V12 and “next to nothing” is what you expect to
see at
hot idle with a worn engine. 45 psi at highway speeds (at least 3,000 rpm)
indicates that your engine is very worn indeed and you should start saving
up
for an overhaul. Specifically, the low pressure is caused by large main and
con-rod bearing clearances. Heavier oil can bring up the pressure a bit; I
use
Castrol GTX2 (SAE 10-40), which is the recommended grade.

I beg to differ here. This MAY be a worn engine, or it could be excessive
heat. The symptoms would be the same.

If it is overheating there is plenty of reason to worry!!

But if it is overheating it is easily fixed.

I think its heat since the car starts at 55 and then when warm at highway
speeds it drops to only 45. The realy low idle temp also points to heat.

Should be easy to diagnose, is the temp guage above the “N”?
                                                       Jim
“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: LLoyd 3030P@vm1.cc.nps.navy.mil
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 96 09:16:48 PST
Subject: switch to xke list

I just want to say good-bye to all the good people and friends I have met
on the Jag net. I’m switching to the “E” list becsause I have an “E”, and
the volume of mail is too much here at work.
You have been a tremendous benefit to me, and I am honored to have met this
group. I will be right next door, with the “E” group.
LLoyd

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 11:46:46 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [XJ6 s3] Too cool?

Something I’ve been wondering about for a while now. My 1982 Euro-spec XJ6
never reaches the green zone on the coolant temp gauge. The green part
starts at 90 degress, but I’m never over 80. I also noticed the other
day when I started up and stood idling for 5 minutes that it was spewing
out exhaust, enough to make quite a cloud.

Nick, quit bitching. You have one of the few Jaguars that is correct. Mine
also stays below the green. When the engineers at Smiths made the guages
they used GREEN where they should have used RED.

I think if a Jag runs "in the green"it is running too hot.

The ambient in the summer here is around 100 degrees and yet my 85XJ6 only
rarely touches the 90 mark at the bottom of the green arc.

When I first got the car it ran at 110 in the middle of the green but
cleaning up the cooling system solved all its problems and realy helped in
the oil pressure as well.

My car has close to 120,000 miles on it and the oil pressure at cruise is
between 50 and 60PSI most of the time. But my water temp is below 90 ALL
the time which is why I have such good oil pressure.

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 11:54:14 -0600 (CST)
Subject: RE: Heater Core

Jaguar recommend the addition of a bottle of “Barrs-Leaks” to the
cooling system - not just to stop leaks, but also to help reduce
corrosion, lubricate moving parts etc. If you haven’t got this in your
system, adding a bottle can’t hurt.

YES IT BY GOD CAN!!!@!!

Dont put that damned stuff in your radiator. That is the single most
important reason that Jaguars have a reputation for overheating.

Every Jag I own (all bought used) has had the radiator removed and several
pounds of “bars leaks” removed from the radiator with the resulting drop of
engine temperature by 10 to 20 degrees centigrade.

DO NOT EVER PUT THIS PRODUCT OR ANY SIMILAR PRODUCT INTO YOUR JAGUAR UNLESS
YOU REALY WANT TO REMOVE THE RADIATOR TO DO A “RODDING” JOB.

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 17:26:55 GMT
Subject: RE: Re[2]: Heater Core

In message c=US%a=_%p=msft%l=WSH-01-MSG-961118144435Z-40968@mail4.microsoft.com Graham Watson writes:

Disagree, and so do Jaguar.
But if you have evidence to back up your statement, I’d really like to
hear it !

Erm, let’s see…

A repair (replacement) bill two years ago for a blocked radiator despite
by-the-book maintenance.

The consensus of the list.

My own experience this summer when I flushed the radiator and accumulated
at the bottom was the same gunk as can be found at the bottom of bottles
of Barr’s Leaks.

The fact that a properly maintained cooling system doesn’t leak and there-
fore shouldn’t need the stuff.

The facts that Barr’s Leaks is designed to solidify on contact with air and
that some air may remain trapped in a V12 cooling system for several days
after a refill, being expelled to the expansion tank only gradually.

Well ?

Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk

From: JT treadwel@ieway.com
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 13:21:21 -0800
Subject: front end shake

Recently this jag owner went to visit my parents in Arizona. While
driving their 88 Oldsmobile I noticed that the dash and steering column
would shake violently when braking. I mentioned this to them and they
replied that they had the brakes looked at when they had new tires put
on and the mechanic said the brakes were fine. My parents are Senior
Citizens and I worry about them on the freeways with a car that may be
malfunctioning. Any ideas or comments.
JT treadwel@ieway.com

From: Aaron Burnett aaron.burnett@attws.com
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 12:45:45 -0800
Subject: XJ-S: Final Drive Additive?

While working on my car (85 XJ-S) with a friend(changing front and rear
shocks), he saw that I have a DANA final drive and asked about the
“special additive” that is required when the diff oil is changed or
topped up. I’ve never heard of this and wondered it anyone else on the
list knows anything about it?

Aaron
'85 XJ-S

From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 12:48:40 -0800
Subject: Re: front end shake

Yeah, the front brake rotors are warped. Whatever you do don’t turn the
rotors to resurface them.

At 01:21 PM 11/18/96 -0800, JT wrote:

Recently this jag owner went to visit my parents in Arizona. While
driving their 88 Oldsmobile I noticed that the dash and steering column
would shake violently when braking. I mentioned this to them and they
replied that they had the brakes looked at when they had new tires put
on and the mechanic said the brakes were fine. My parents are Senior
Citizens and I worry about them on the freeways with a car that may be
malfunctioning. Any ideas or comments.
JT treadwel@ieway.com

From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 16:23:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Chassis shakes/ driveshaft balance

In a message dated 96-11-18 13:14:25 EST, MGB@UVVM.UVIC.CA (Gregory
Andrachuk) writes:

<< Julian: I have the same vibratiion in my xj6, again,… and now
suspect the driveshaft… although I am not sure how they GET out of
balance. The original weights are still in place… If you find
the answer please post it so we can all benefit. >>

I wonder if oil leaking on the driveshaft and the slow accumulation of gunk
on the shaft can cause it to go out of balance???

Julian Mullaney

From: Aaron Burnett aaron.burnett@attws.com
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 13:38:08 -0800
Subject: XJ-S: Correct thermostats?

I have an '85 XJ-S. In it are 180 F thermostats. Are these correct?

My car idles roughly and the temp gauge rarely moves above halfway
between C and N.

Perhaps I need 190 F thermostats?

Aaron
'85 XJ-S

From: karpienp@brigar.com
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 17:00:39 -0500
Subject: SIII Heater Operation

It has been a long time since my last post. It’s so easy to get wrapped
up
in different things and forget what is really important in life, e.g…
Jaguars.

It good to see some new names as well as those who have been around
longer
than dirt

Okay here’s the problem.
85 XJ-6
I can’t seem to get any heat out of my bottom vents. It is possible,
however, to get warm air
from the defrost vents and the side vents.

As I turn the knob from the 65 to 85 here are the results.

Temp on Knob | Defrost | Side Vent | Bottom
65 warm warm cold air
70 warm warm cold. lesser flow
75 very warm very warm cold, almost no flow
85 hot hot no air

Moving the mixture lever in the center seems to increase the amount of
hot air coming
out the top but has no effect on the bottom vents. When the system is
blowing full
force I can definitely feel a difference in air temp out the defrost when
moving the lever,
however there is no change in the bottom vents.

I assume there is a dead selinoid somewhere. Any ideas or trouble
shooting suggestions
would be greatly appreciated.

-Peter with warm hands and cold feet
'85 XJ-6
karpienp@brigar.com

From: Brian c556987@showme.missouri.edu
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 16:07:08 -0600
Subject: Cyclists on Jag listserve

Hello,

My attn. was brought to this mailing list by one James Isbell, who
stated that all cyclists should be shot.

I have been reading the list for a few days, now, and am pleased to note
that it seems to be a rational, informed discussion of interest to JAg
owners.

However, I have to wonder how the topic of cyclist came up in the first
place.

Martin Fooks, I think, has the right idea. Only when cyclists are
ignored by city planners do problems start to mount up. In places where
they are accepted and accomodated, they serve as useful, even superior
transport. Cycle couriers are, in general, a reckless group, but the
mere fact of their proliferation points to the fact that cycles are more
efficient and timely transport in urban centers. Many cycle courier
companies are now requiring their riders to adopt a more “legal”
approach to their jobs, and trying to improve their public image.

I do not intend to flood this list with annoying posts, but I would like
to advise everyone to think twice before taking advice on their Jaguars
from someone as irrational and hateful as James Isbell.

As time passes, cyclists and motorists will have increasing contact. We
need to work together to reach mutually acceptable solutions to any
problems this causes, and not sit dumbly around making inane comments
such as “all cyclists should be shot”, safe and secure in a
motorist-dominated (obviously!) mailing list.

Thank you for your time, and I regret any inconvenience my post may have
caused.

Brian Hossfeld
mailto:c556987@showme.missouri.edu
http://www.missouri.edu/~c556987/

From: “John Littler” auibmdak@ibmmail.com
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 18:29:32 EST
Subject: XJ6 S3 too cool

Nick, Bert and Volcker all mentioned that their S3’s ran at around 80 C
in “normal” operation - my S3 does also, but it didn’t until a month ago.
Normal operation reads 70 to 80 C on the gauge, heavy traffic pushes it
up to 90. A month ago normal operation was about 85 /90 with heavy
traffic pushing it to 95 ish (2 needle widths) - the only thing I
changed was the oil… I still can’t figure why this made a difference
although the oil I got claimed it was designed for engines doing a lot of
stop start city driving and extendedhighway cruising, which exactly fits
the type of driving I do. It’s Mobil XHD, 20w50, if I remember correctly.

The ambient temperature here is probably 10 or 15 C warmer than in
Europe at the moment (today’s forecast for around 30C I think). The other
possibly interesting thing is that temperature will normally sit at about
75C at extended highway cruising (100 /120 km/hr - they take your licence
on the spot if you go much faster than that)

John

Level 1, 29-57 Christie St.
St Leonards NSW 2065
Ph: +61-2-9937-8063 Fax: +61-2-9937-8100
Mobile +61-419-617-619

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 19:10:36 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: front end shake

JT: Replace the front rotors and install new pads. The problem is that
the rotors are worn down past the min thickness.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 19:13:50 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S: Final Drive Additive?

Aaron: All you need to do is use gear lube made for a positraction
diff,just look on the can, it will tell you if it is made for them. If
you have never touched the diff, then it already has it in it.
By the way this is the same guts as found in the Camero Dana rear end.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044On
Mon, 18 Nov 1996, Aaron Burnett wrote:

While working on my car (85 XJ-S) with a friend(changing front and rear
shocks), he saw that I have a DANA final drive and asked about the
“special additive” that is required when the diff oil is changed or
topped up. I’ve never heard of this and wondered it anyone else on the
list knows anything about it?

Aaron
'85 XJ-S

From: “Rice, Brian” RICEB@lsod.srl.dsto.defence.gov.au
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 10:49 +1030
Subject: XJ-6 Re: Heater Core & Fogging

In reply to Kevin Campbell.
My 84 XJ-6 developed the same symptoms as yours, ie fogging of the
windscreen. Coolant level also used to go down slowly with no obvious signs
of leakage. I put off doing anything about it until the roof lining
started to fall off due to the high humidity inside the car.
It took three days to remove the heater core (airconditioner needed
degassing). Visibly it showed signs of leaking but when tested with
compressed air in a water bath it did not show any leaks.
To my horror a new Jaguar one was quoted as costing over $1,000 but I was
able to get the heater recored for $190.
One and a half days to put the car back together, was much easier than
disassembling which required much marking of connectors, seats out, steering
column out, centre console out, etc etc. The airconditioner/heater assembly
came out as a complete unit and was taken apart on the bench.
The good news is the heater & airconditioner now work fine and there is NO
fogging.
Don’t leave it too long to repair because I now have to contemplate a roof
reline.
Brian W.Rice
84 XJ-6 Sov White
85 XJ-S HE White
Adelaide Australia

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 19:16:18 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S: Correct thermostats?

Aaron: The stats can be 180 or 190 or 160, the engine should idle
smooth. You have another prob causing the rough idle.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044On
Mon, 18 Nov 1996, Aaron Burnett wrote:

I have an '85 XJ-S. In it are 180 F thermostats. Are these correct?

My car idles roughly and the temp gauge rarely moves above halfway
between C and N.

Perhaps I need 190 F thermostats?

Aaron
'85 XJ-S

From: Brian c556987@showme.missouri.edu
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 18:56:36 -0600
Subject: Oil Pressure

Oil pressure is not dependent on engine temperature. If it is,
whatever brand of oil you are using is failing miserably.

The idea that oil pressure varies with engine temp. depends on the
assumption that as oil heats, it uniformly loses viscosity. This is true
until about 50 deg C, but above that temperature, oil viscosity changes
very little with increasing temperature.

Oil companies will be happy to verify this. For those who have seen the
commercials, oil brands like to brag about resisting “thermal breakdown”
which describes the effect of oil losing viscosity as it heats. In fact,
those “additives” we hear so much about are mainly for a)reducing
deposits in the engine, and b)reducing this “thermal breakdown”.

If you think I am full of hooey, I advise you to check with the experts
(the oil co’s themselves, and race mechanics, whose engines regularly
see astronomical temps). I have seen numerous visc. vs. temp plots, and
all oils I have seen demonstrate a marked flattening of this curve
above roughly 50 deg C.

Finally, if your oil pressure is abnormally low, I would surmise that
it is a combination of the oil pump, engine wear (bearing tolerances),
and possibly the oil pressure relief valve. Wear in the oil pump is the
primary cause of low oil pressure which I have seen, and is also a quick
and easy fix. Otherwise, say hello to Mr. Overhaul.

Brian Hossfeld
mailto:c556987@showme.missouri.edu
http://www.missouri.edu/~c556987/

From: ajbeale@squirrel.com.au (A.J. Beale)
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 11:31:30 +1000 (EST)
Subject: RE: Heater Core

To add a little to the discussion about adding or not adding Barrs Leaks to
the radiator. I think it has been well established that the long term use
of Barrs Leaks in the proportions once recommended by Jaguar will cause
blockages and will also harm the hoses. However, I do not believe that
using it on a temporary basis to get a car to its destination could possibly
do any harm, provided that the system is drained and refilled later. My
main reason for this opinion is that my current car was serviced regularly
for its 72000 km before I got it and Barrs Leaks was added as recommended.
There is absolutely no evidence of any gumming up of anything and the engine
runs at normal temperatures on the hottest days. This indicates that it
takes more than a few thousand km or miles to do any real harm. Also, I
have late workshop manuals for my car and Jaguar still recommend the
addition of Barrs Leaks, but only a sachet, which sounds a lot less than a
bottle.
Alan
(1989 XJ40)

From: “Robert J. Richardson” rrichardson@eurekanet.com
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 22:13:35 -0500
Subject: E-Type brake bleed

I’m told that the one-man brake bleed kits are about 80 percent efficient,
at most. Does anyone know the diameter of the plastic line (hose) mechanics
use for a two-man bleed. Would this setup work? I attach the plastic line
that is long enough for me to run it from the rear brake nipples to a
plastic jar inside my FHC. I would have a clamp I could reach while
applying the brake. Before releasing the brake pedal I would clamp the line
shut and keep repeating this until I see no more bubbles. Then I would
bleed the left rear brake and after this bleed both front brakes. During
all this I would keep checking the fluid levels in the two reservoirs and
keep each topped up as I bleed both systems. I sure don’t want to drive the
old E-Type without the assurance of having bled both braking systems
properly.

I’ve tried twice to post this on the new XK-E list, but get the message
that the host is unknown. What gives?

From: Doug Heinen povtybay@wolfenet.com
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 20:09:21 +0930
Subject: Oxygenated fuels

Michael Frank wrote:

I believe oxygenated fuel contains MTBE, not alchohol. …(snip)…

Mike F is right. Most of the oxygenated fuels used in this country are
formulated Methyl-Tertiary-Butyl-Ether, or MTBE$ as Mike indicated.
Another, less commonly used additive is TAME or
Tertiary-Amyl-Methyl-Ether. The net effect they have is to more
completely burn the hydrocarbons chain in the fuel formualtion as
combustion occurs.

This was started in some areas of the USA by the EPA in the late '80’s
as a way to improve the smog conditions that can occur in the winter.
Due to temperature inversions that can trap stagnant air near the
earth’s surface, smog can be reduced if fuel is more completely burned.

Later model cars are not effected by these additives as most -seals- are
no longer using natural rubber. They are synthetic these days and
impervious to the additives. OEM seals mnfr’d in the '60’s and early
'70’s in the UK were mostly natural rubber I’m told and were effected.

FWIW…

doug heinen

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #531

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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 19 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 532

Re: front end shake
Re: XJ-S: Final Drive Additive?
I’m New Here !
Re: XJ-S: Final Drive Additive?
Excuse my ignorance!
XJ220 - Strange noise
XKE flywheels
Re: XJ220 - Strange noise
XJ40 Clock Resettting on start up and seat heaters
'86 XJ-S voltage regulator replacement
Re: XKE flywheels
Re:E-Type brake bleed
Lumenition
E -type AC unit for sale
Re: Excuse my ignorance!
Re: XJ220 - Strange noise
Re: XKE flywheels
Thats the Brakes
Re: XJ220 - Strange noise
RE:[XJ6 s3] Too cool?
SIII Heater Operation
RE: Fuel economy
RE:Heater cores.

From: Victor Naumann jagdoc@erols.com
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 21:46:29 -0500
Subject: Re: front end shake

JT wrote:

would shake violently when braking.
Probably needs new rotors or at least heve them turned down if they are
thick enough.
Vic

From: Victor Naumann jagdoc@erols.com
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 21:45:02 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ-S: Final Drive Additive?

Aaron Burnett wrote:

While working on my car (85 XJ-S) with a friend(changing front and rear
shocks), he saw that I have a DANA final drive and asked about the
“special additive” that is required when the diff oil is changed
Small bottle of Positraction fluid available at GM dealers and many
parts store, not essential but some people think it helps, and it can’t
hurt.
Regards,Vic

From: Rick Taillieu taillieu@connect.reach.net
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 23:31:31 -0500
Subject: I’m New Here !

Greetings to all Jag lovers, I’m new here, so I’ll introduce myself.
My name is Rick and I live in Trenton, Ontario, Canada. I have a 1978
XJ6L that I’ve had for 6 years and a 1968 E Type Coupe that I’ve had
for 12 years (I know I’m a sucker for punishment). The XJ6 is stock but
has suffered from the dreaded tin worm from the highly salted roads
here. The E Type is rust free but a former owner had installed a Ford
6 cyl engine (turbocharged) and a C4 slushbox,(anyone know where I can
pick up an E Type 4.2L & 4 speed gearbox cheap!!).
I’m looking foreward to some good conversation.
Cheers
Rick Taillieu

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 07:44:55 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: XJ-S: Final Drive Additive?

Aaron Burnett wrote:

While working on my car (85 XJ-S) with a friend(changing front and rear
shocks), he saw that I have a DANA final drive and asked about the
“special additive” that is required when the diff oil is changed
Small bottle of Positraction fluid available at GM dealers and many
parts store, not essential but some people think it helps, and it can’t
hurt.
Regards,Vic

As far as I remember the additive is only required when you did not use
the right oil for the final drive and prevents burning out the clutches,
which might be quite essential.

- Matthias

From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 10:32:56 -0800
Subject: Excuse my ignorance!

OK, out with it!

There it is again! I’ve stripped the entire system in my mind, but to the best
of my knowledge, I cannot find any part that fits the description. Is it the
disc? No. Is it the pistons? no, they just go in and out, don’t they? Is it
something else inside the calipers? What? What??

What the #{ is a brake rotor?!

Flame suit? Why?!?

Regards
Bard

______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no

From: cuno@macworld.ch (Cuno Schneeberger)
Date: 19 Nov 1996 12:04:20 GMT
Subject: XJ220 - Strange noise

Hi Jag Friends

I have an annoying problem with my XJ220. Every time I approach 200 mph I
hear this strange ticking sound that seems to come somewhere from behind. It
is fine at lower speeds. Maybe there is a problem with one of the turbos? My
local garage suggested to swap the Jag engine with a chevy V8 because you
would get the same performance with a lot less problems and it would look
even better. What should I do? I am considering to put the V6 of my Nissan
300ZX in the XJ220, at least it is a 6 cylinder as well, right?

Sorry, couldn’t resist that one! But there’s an auction next weekend here
in Switzerland where you could buy a XJ220. May be I can still convince my
dad to sell his house

Regards
Cuno
90 XJ-S V12 Coupe

From: Trond Vidar Olsen Trond.Vidar.Olsen@hrp.no
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 12:20:00 +0100
Subject: XKE flywheels

Hi folks,

Since splitting with my '66 2+2, I bought a 2 seater coupe some month
ago. The clutch was all shot and I have had it in a shop (Motor Cars
of Distinction, Cedar Parks, TX) for a replacement clutch.

They changed some other items while at it, like engine mounts etc,
unfortunately they discovered the flywheel to bad, and needed be
replaced. Is there anyone out there with an idea whether this really
should be neccesary, or if resurfacing would have been enough?

The questiuon should perhaps be,…how bad can a flywheel be before it
needs replaced?

My theory is that the clutch was worn ALL DOWN, thus having metal to
metal in the last hours/minutes of ‘clutch-life’.

Anyone with experience from this shop and their work?

rgds,
Trond V. Olsen

From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 08:13:34 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ220 - Strange noise

Cuno wrote, in part;

I have an annoying problem with my XJ220. Every time I approach 200 mph I
hear this strange ticking sound that seems to come somewhere from behind.

Cuno & all,
Sorry if I alarmed you, Cuno.
That annoying ticking came from my valve-lifters
as I passed you. At anything near 200MPH those
damned lifters start ticking. It’s really embarrassing!
Anyway, nice car!
It looked even better in my rear-view.
Regards,

Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
'62 E-Type, ots, flat floor.

    -------------------------------------------------------------
"Laugh? I thought I'd die!" 
		       A. Boleyn
    -------------------------------------------------------------

From: dparnell@shlci.ca
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 96 08:17:12 -0700
Subject: XJ40 Clock Resettting on start up and seat heaters

Does anyone know what could be causing my digital clock to start flashing and
and need resetting after starting the engine? The problem is only intermittent
but it is real pain to have to keep resetting the clock. The only time I have
seen this in other vehicles is when there has been starter or battery problems,
neither of these are an issue as the battery is less than a year old and the
engine starts like a dream.

Does anyone know where you can get used seat heats as I have two base and one
back heating element that need changing?

Thanking you in advance for your help.

Derek

Derek Parnell
SHL Computer Innovations
1914 12th Avenue,
Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada S4R 6G2
(306) 525-7131 dparnell@shlci.ca

From: “Kevin Halgren” halgren@cjnetworks.com
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 08:34:17 -0600
Subject: '86 XJ-S voltage regulator replacement

Hi all,

This is my first posting here, so we’ll see how this goes. I have a 1986
XJ-S on which I need to replace the voltage regulator. I would like to do
this myself. I have three basic questions:

Any general advice on the replacement process?
Is there a reliable (i.e. non-Lucas) replacement for this part?
Where can I get a replacement voltage regulator for a decent price? (I
am in Lawrence, Kansas, there is a Jaguar Dealer about an hour away in
Kansas City, but they are rather expensive and probably wouldn’t sell me
just the part anyway. Some U.S. mail order company is otherwise my best
option.)

Any response I can get on this I would greatly appreciate. Thanks.

Kevin Halgren
halgren@cjnetworks.com

From: gljohn3@searle.monsanto.com
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 96 08:31:43 CST
Subject: Re: XKE flywheels

“The questiuon should perhaps be,…how bad can a flywheel be before it
needs replaced?”

 A flywheel/ring gear assembly is around $500, so I understand your 
 reluctance to change out a piece that still has life in it.  There are 
 remachining tolerances for the flywheel, but my feeling is once you 
 are that deep into the drive train you are best off to replace any 
 wear parts you can get to.  Unless you routinely pull your engine, you 
 want everything as fresh as it can be when you bolt it back together 
 so as to avoid having to go back in there again.
 
 I am an owner (67 1.5 ots) not a technician so the above is just an 
 opinion.  But I have gone through the clutch/flywheel replacement and 
 I think you will be glad you went the distance.
 
 Cheers,
 Gordon Johnson

From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 09:32:20 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re:E-Type brake bleed

Robert:

This seems waaaaaaaaaay too complicated. I have several lengths of tubing
in various sizes that I use for this…they have been with me so long, I
can’t even guess at the original diameter.

I just find a suitable hose, one which fits very snuggly over the bleed
nipple. I run this down into an old-fashioned milk bottle, which has a bit
of brake fluid in it. I then open the nipple, and pump the brakes.
Periodically, I replenish the reservoirs. Once the fluid comes thru clear
and bubble free, I tighten the bleed valve, and viola!, I’m done. As long as
the end of the tube remains below the level of fluid in the milk bottle, and
the reservoir remains full, it is impossible for air to get back into the
system.

Be sure to dispose of your old fluid properly!

Now I am curious about something. On my 1969 2+2, there are two removeable
panels behind the rear seat which allow easy access to the brake calipers.
Judging from all the complaints and skinned knouckles on this list, it
sounds like the earlier cars/other models may not have had this feature.
Does anyone know when this was added, and which models had it?

Miechael Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2

At 05:07 AM 11/19/96 +0100, you wrote:

I’m told that the one-man brake bleed kits are about 80 percent efficient,
at most. Does anyone know the diameter of the plastic line (hose) mechanics
use for a two-man bleed. Would this setup work? I attach the plastic line
that is long enough for me to run it from the rear brake nipples to a
plastic jar inside my FHC. I would have a clamp I could reach while
applying the brake. Before releasing the brake pedal I would clamp the line
shut and keep repeating this until I see no more bubbles. Then I would
bleed the left rear brake and after this bleed both front brakes. During
all this I would keep checking the fluid levels in the two reservoirs and
keep each topped up as I bleed both systems. I sure don’t want to drive the
old E-Type without the assurance of having bled both braking systems
properly.

From: “Little_Mike” little_mike@CCMAIL.ncsc.navy.mil
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 96 08:36:45 CDT
Subject: Lumenition

 I'm considering Lumenition ignition for my 66 MKII (positive ground).
 Are they designed for positive ground? I would appreciate any 
 feedback.
 
 Mike Little

From: DHarr13177@aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 09:43:36 -0500
Subject: E -type AC unit for sale

I have a complete unit (under dash and all components under the bonnet) that
was on my series I XKE coupe. It works well. All the louvres are present and
work. One louvre is perfect the others are missing the adjusting prong (could
be replaced by a potmetal specialist probably (vendor ads in Hemmings) The
compressor seals are new and the system doesn’t leak freon. An aluminum
pulley fits on the crank damper. The alternator is moved, in my case to the
right lower engine area, and replaced with a late model corvette unit . A
“new” radio console is used. I have probably $2,000 into the unit for
fabrication of brackets, pulley, hoses and rebuilding the compressor. I would
take $1,000

From: gljohn3@searle.monsanto.com
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 96 08:48:19 CST
Subject: Re: Excuse my ignorance!

Just because I know a brake disc and a brake rotor are one and the same, I could
not tell you why. Is it one of those wrench/spanner things?

Your question, Baard, gives me a chance to ask one of my own. I have never seen
the term “ots” for roadster before this list. Can someone enlighten me, please?

Cheers,
Gordon

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Excuse my ignorance!
Author: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no at Internet
Date: 11/19/96 05:22 AM

OK, out with it!

There it is again! I’ve stripped the entire system in my mind, but to the best
of my knowledge, I cannot find any part that fits the description. Is it the
disc? No. Is it the pistons? no, they just go in and out, don’t they? Is it
something else inside the calipers? What? What??

What the #{ is a brake rotor?!

Flame suit? Why?!?

Regards
Bard

______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no

From: Bert.Willing@lc.dmx.epfl.ch (Bert Willing)
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 16:02:01 +0100
Subject: Re: XJ220 - Strange noise

Cuno & all,
Sorry if I alarmed you, Cuno.
That annoying ticking came from my valve-lifters
as I passed you. At anything near 200MPH those
damned lifters start ticking. It’s really embarrassing!
Anyway, nice car!
It looked even better in my rear-view.
Regards,

Funny, that. I’d have thought that on a car running faster than say 150 mph,
rear view mirrors are quite useless. At least I will drop mine as soon
as I have replaced that air filter by one of those 200 bars oxygene bottles
on my XJ6.

Ciao

Bert

Bert Willing '84 XJ6 4.2L
Laboratoire de Ceramique - Departement des Materiaux
Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (EPFL), MX-Ecublens, CH-1015 Lausanne
Fone : (+41 21) 693 29 44
Phax : 58 10
email: Bert.Willing@lc.dmx.epfl.ch

------------------------- Eudora 2.1.1 ------------------------------

From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 10:13:49 -0500
Subject: Re: XKE flywheels

On Nov 19, 8:31am, gljohn3@searle.monsanto.com wrote:

Subject: Re: XKE flywheels

“The questiuon should perhaps be,…how bad can a flywheel be before it
needs replaced?”
 A flywheel/ring gear assembly is around $500,

GTJ sells a lot of alloy flywheels and hence has a lot of left over steel
flywheels… Their latest catalog says that they will sell these leftovers
“real cheap” -might be worth a call to them.

Mark McChesney

From: dneufeld@sanac.usiu.edu
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 06:47:57 -0800
Subject: Thats the Brakes

Anyone have any experience on the parking brake pads on an 87 XJ6 - my guess
is that other nearby years are the same - any tips before I order the pads -
The PO probably ran to Egypt and back with the Parking brake on - also, has
anyone ever attempted to remove chrome from the alloy wheels on the same
year car - I think that is a crime (somewhere) - chroming alloy wheels that ise[De[D
Thanks for your input- am enjoying the heck out of this list Don

From: Doug Heinen povtybay@wolfenet.com
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 08:03:53 +0930
Subject: Re: XJ220 - Strange noise

Cuno Schneeberger wrote:

Hi Jag Friends

I have an annoying problem with my XJ220. Every time I approach 200 mph I
hear this strange ticking sound that seems to come somewhere from behind.

Cuno;

That’s just me on my bicycle!!!

doug heinen

From: Barrie Dawson DAWSONB@btcec3.agw.bt.co.uk
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 17:02:27 -0800
Subject: RE:[XJ6 s3] Too cool?

This subject is close to my heart since I spent the best part of last
summer suffering fron overheating problems. After many hours work
and several hundred UK pounds the overheating was cured. However the
result was a drop in “normal” running temperature, 70 - 80 deg., which I
considered too low. My local Jag specialist assured me that this
would not cause any problems, in fact the opposite, since the 6 cylinder
engine is notorious for overheating and head damage as a result. During
a trip to Denmark I noticed after sustained speeds above 60 MPH the
temperature reached 90 deg. and in all this I still managed to return
20 - 24 MPG.

I wouldn’t worry unless we’re talking less than 70 deg. normal running.
This would most likely be an air-lock in the system which would be
evident by loss of coolant from the overflow and cool air from the
heater.

Clouds of steam and small puddles from the tail pipes is also normal
it’s just condensation.

Barrie Dawson

Chatham, Kent England
1985 series III Sovereign

From: WEZA65A@prodigy.com (MR MICHAEL D FATSI)
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 10:53:05, -0500
Subject: SIII Heater Operation

I too have the smae problem mentioned by (karpienp) Even with the
heat on full blast cold air still seems to flow out of the lower
footlevel vents. Someone out there must know how to fix this problem.

From: ifinlay@vossnet.co.uk (Ian Finlay)
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 16:34:37 GMT
Subject: RE: Fuel economy

This can be a symptom of low oil level. Make sure you have the correct
dipstick.

Ian

On Nov 15, 1996 16:02:14, ‘Aaron Burnett aaron.burnett@attws.com’ wrote:

What did you do to increase your oil pressure? My '85 XJ-S has about 55
psi when first started in the morning. As it warms up, the pressure
drops to about 45 on the highway and almost 0 psi at stop. Should I
start worrying? It has been this way since I bought it about 18 months
ago.

Aaron
'85 XJ-S

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu[SMTP:JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu]
Sent: Monday, November 11, 1996 7:37 AM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Fuel economy

Now I put this down to increased viscosity of the oil when it’s colder
(the oil-cooler has no thermostat). So I’m wondering if the difference
between the two cars may be due to different grades of oil in the two
cars. I admit that the difference Steve is getting sounds a bit large
for this cause but maybe if there’s 20W-50 in the thirsty Jag and 0W-30
synthetic in the other one???

…or maybe different thermostats in the two cars causing a slight
difference in oil temp? (any difference in coolant temp gauge
readings?)

This does not compute.

If this were the case then you would get better milage when the car was
overheating. You dont. My XJ-S got the same milage when the radiator
was
70% plugged and it was running on an oil pressure of 10 to 30 as it does
now
with the radiator cleaned and the oil pressure running 25 to 60. The oil

pressure is a good guage of viscosity. I dont believe your observed
difference has anything to do with the oil viscosity.

The cause of lower milage in colder weather is probably the cold start
mechanisum using more gas on short runs.

    JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                    Gen. Emiliano

Zapata

                                                      1879-1919

From: Barrie Dawson DAWSONB@btcec3.agw.bt.co.uk
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 17:22:01 -0800
Subject: RE:Heater cores.

OH NO NOT AGAIN!!!

I have been a victim of “BARRS LEAKS” and its effect is devastating. If
you know anything about a cars cooling system you MUST know that
anything
that blocks a hole CAN and WILL completely block the system. The first
thing to suffer is the radiator, the fine pipe work is filled up with a
disgusting sludge which hardens and cannot easily be removed. Second
the
system tries extra hard to cool down the engine but fails and the result
is unbelievable high pressures which try to blow out anywhere they can.
Third the heater core fills up and can’t be unblocked. Last but by no
means least these abnormal pressures can and sometimes do blow the head
gasket.

As you can see by the time the engine is 10 years old you have spent 15
UK Pounds approx. slowly blocking up the system. This could cost you,
like it did me this summer. I was lucky I only had to replace a
Radiator, Water Pump, Thermostat, Pressure Cap and 30 litres of anti-
freeze, I kept loosing it until the fault was fixed, totalling 300 UK
Pounds.

THE BEST PLACE FOR BARRS LEAKS IS ON THE SHOP SHELF.

PS Anti-freeze lubricates the pump anyway!

Barrie Dawson

Chatham, Kent England

1985 Series III Sovereign

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #532

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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 19 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 533

Omega Oil
Installation of Oil Coolers on the Mark 2
Re: XJ-S Flooding is Not Fixed
Re: XJS running temperatures
Re: The E project begins in earnest
Re: Heater Core
Opinions: Tyre Rotation
RE: Fuel economy
Re: SIII Heater Operation
Re: Thats the Brakes
Re: Installation of Oil Coolers on the Mark 2
Re: Omega Oil
Re: '86 XJ-S voltage regulator replacement
Re[2]: XK timing chain adjustment
Positive vs Negative Ground
Re: Re: XJ220 - Strange noise
XJ40 door panel

From: “The Honjos” fm7m-hnjy@asahi-net.or.jp
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 02:01:18 +0900
Subject: Omega Oil

Apparently you pay a lot but get your car to run smoother with
lubricating oil formulated from Pennsylvanian Paraffin crude. I
understand that Omega Oil produced by an Australian company called
Magna fits that category. How much do they cost in car shops down
under? They cost, heaven forbid, like US$40/liter for a 20W50 oil.
Would anyone be interested in exporting the stuff up here?

Are there other engine oils formulated exclusively from Pennsylvanian
Paraffin crude (the U.S. should have 'em)?

Regards

Makoto Honjo
Phone/Fax +81-3-3473-1848

From: “The Honjos” fm7m-hnjy@asahi-net.or.jp
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 02:01:18 +0900
Subject: Installation of Oil Coolers on the Mark 2

This is really a question for those of you down under who drive on
the “civilized” (i.e. left) side of the road, and have opted to
install oil coolers on their classic Jaguars to enable them to
withstand the 30++ degrees summer heat.

Me and my friend are contemplating the installation of an oil cooler
on our Mark 2s. The problem is that with the LHD Mark 2s, the adaptor
that fits between the crank case and the oil filter would bump into
the steering gearbox as it is. How have you gotten around this
issue.

Are there nice Australian or NZ suppliers who’ve got kits and designs
to get an oil cooler installed properly on the LHD cars?

Regards
Makoto Honjo
Phone/Fax +81-3-3473-1848

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 12:16:37 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S Flooding is Not Fixed

Thanks for the tips – we will check it out. Haven’t checked volts at the
TPS, only ohms.

John

On Sat, 16 Nov 1996, Chad Bolles wrote:

John: The ECU increases the pulse width when the engine is cold,getting
its signal from the water temp sensor. Check the TPS voltage(not ohm
reading as I said in another msg) it should be between .32 and .36volts
closed. If this is correct,then check the full throttle mirco
switch,located under the TPS, make sure it is operating correctly(not
stuck in the on position),then check the full throttle vacuum
switch,located on top of the rt inlet manifold,disconnect it,then
reconnect,no difference then ok. Fuel press 28.5-30 at rail NO MORE,

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 12:44:31 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJS running temperatures

On Wed, 16 Oct 1996, James A. Isbell wrote:

BTW, I performed the experiment to see how underhood temp and interior air
intake temp is affected by opening the hood. Haven’t had time to post the
details but the net of it is that underhood temp drops a bunch (no
surprise) and air temp into the windshield plenum is unaffected (what I
expected to find). Guys like us with no spoilers presumably will see more
of a difference.

OOPS, maybe you have a problem.

Just today I tried that same experiment and found NO DIFFERENCE that could
be read on the guage.

Yes, I have a problem. And the problem is that my message was ambiguous.
When I performed the experiment, the water temp of the engine stayed
exactly the same. No difference. However, the air temp of the engine
compartment as measured with a thermocouple located above and behind the
throttle pot showed an important reduction in underhood temperature.

I have been remiss in posting the details of the measurements – just too
much going on. I don’t have the data here with me or would post it now.
The net of it is that I measured the undrhood temp as described and also
the temp of the air coming out of the center dash vents. The climate
control system was forced to divert all air to the center vents.
Compressor was off. Hot water was mechanically prevented from flowing
thru the heater matrix. Fans were off. Another thermocouple measured the
center vent air temp.

What I found was that the underhood temp goes down by a bunch with the
hood popped (my gas struts held it up against the safety latch). There
was no change to the temp recorded at the center vents. I have time
versus temp charts (thermocouples 1 and 2 and engine coolant temp)
readings that I will eventually post if there is interest. Oh, yeah,
again I say that engine coolant temperature did not change a wit. My
conclusion is that louvering the hood to the sides of the center cowl
opening will reduce underhood temps and not dump additional hot air into
the climate control system. I know that my test has a few shortcomings
bbut it is the best I can do without actually cutting the hood. (I’ll do
it – anyone got a spare bonnet?? )

highway with no stops at 70-80 MPH. I opened the hood at speed, but had to
slow down to relatch it because the bernoulli effect keeps it pulled up. I
decided that louvers wouild be of no help.

Louvers will reduce underhood temps and they may reduce lift on the hood.
(Here we go again.) But many will point out that you (and I) have too
much lift on the hood because we don’t have all the spoilers in place.

I also tried removing the front license plate and could only see a half a
needle width of difference if that much.

This is additional proof that you need the spoilers. Same as my car
running hotter up at speeds where airflow really matters.

My needle stayed, AT ALL TIMES, within the limits of the top of the “N” and
one needle width below the “N”. This is an arc of only three needle widths.
When I say stayed within, I mean the top of the needle never got above the
top of the “N” and the bottom of the needle never got further down than one
needle width below the “N”, (not counting starting cold of course) so we are
realy only talking about a movement of TWO needle widths. Not much.

My car has never even gotten to the top of the N. Quite a difference in
senders/gauges.

Turning on the AC (which turns on the electric fan) caused a good full
needle width drop but that was the best I could do.

You have dirty connections where the multi-plug connectors plug into the
back of your instrument module. Remove the instrument pod, clean the
connections, and ‘spring’ the incredibly-cheaply designed, bent-over
printed circuit so it presses harder against the connector.

I also noted that the guage has the “arc” markings, and the face has the
letter markings. I wonder if the guage can be moved up or down under the
face to change the calibration!

No, I don’t think so. The markings are on a metal panel in the pod and
thegauge is half-round. But it all screws together one way. Since all
the gauges presumably have the same size wire/number of turns then
differences in readings are a result of differences in senders and/or bad
connections.

My temps once changed because I cleaned the connectors. I now knowwhat is
going on because I added mechanical temp gauges to audit the stock setup.

So a way to talk intelegently would be to use needle widths and refer to
distances on the arc not in relation to the letters.

Maybe. But I think numbers are best so plumb in an auxiliary gauge.
Requires no mods to your car and is reversible, so no one will ever know.

John

From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 12:46:59 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: The E project begins in earnest

At 03:13 PM 11/18/96 -0600, you wrote:

I was told by waht I though was good authority that the series II roadster
and 2+2 were identical and that is why you can buy a kit to make the 2+2
into a roadster, they are on the same chassis.
Are you sure there is a 9" difference? It would make the conversion kit
seem unlikely.

Positive. The Series I and II 2+2 was 9" longer than the coupe or
roadster. For the Series III, the coupe format was dropped, and the
roadster redesigned on the long wheel base platform-this is why the 2+2 can
be converted. So I suspect your pipes will be a bit short.

Someone also mentioned a difference in the configuration of the front pipes.
On the 2+2, the two exhaust paths merge into one, then split apart again.
The front pipes should be interchangeable, despite this. I am researching
this peculiarity. Does anyone know if it was done to boost performance (as
with the H pipe in the big Chrysler cars), or was it done to conserve cost?
I have read that Chrysler tried the H pipe as an experiment after seeing the
Jag setup, and were surprised to find that horsepower increased by 5%. No
clue why Jag did this, tho.

I have some references on SU’s, which are similar. If you are interested,
E-Mail me.

I am E-mailing you as requested.

I will check my library tonight…a fax number or Smail address would
probably come in handy.

Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 12:50:34 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Heater Core

On Sun, 17 Nov 1996, Kevin P. Campbell wrote:

Would anyone advise as a temporary stop-gap measure the addition of a
tube of radiator sealant to the system to aid in the elimination of a
slight defroster fog

DON’T DO IT! That stuff plugs up more than leaks.

If you can, just bypass the heater core. And dress warm.

John

From: Marshall Hollister-Jones marshall@mentor.co.nz
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 07:31:02 +1300
Subject: Opinions: Tyre Rotation

Conventional wisdom is to rotate tyre about half way through their life.
This is said to give better overall wear etc.

However my XJ40 handbook says not to rotate tyres.

Anybody have any thoughts/experiences in doing this??

Marshall
'87 XJ40 Sovereign

From: “Richard.Mansell” Richard.Mansell@psemail.ps.net
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 18:00:00 +0000
Subject: RE: Fuel economy

------ =_0_MIME_Boundary_17559.32920295.imo0p8p0.eurh021.eur.ps.net
---------------------------- Forwarded with Changes ---------------------------
From: owner-jag-lovers@sn.no%ussmtp at ccx400uk
Date: 11/19/96 4:34PM
To: Richard Mansell at Not-Cop5
*To: aaron.burnett@attws.com%ussmtp at ccx400uk
*cc: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu%ussmtp at ccx400uk
*cc: jag-lovers@sn.no%ussmtp at ccx400uk
Subject: RE: Fuel economy

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How about checking the oil pressure sender=2c they are notorious for =

giving bad readings=2e =

=

=a325 or borrowing a master guage is a lot cheaper that an engine =

stripdown=2e

Richard

=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=
=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f Forward Header =5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=
=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f=5f
Subject=3a RE=3a Fuel economy
Author=3a owner-jag-lovers=40sn=2eno=25ussmtp at ccx400uk
Date=3a 19=2f11=2f96 16=3a34

This can be a symptom of low oil level=2e Make sure you have the correct =

dipstick=2e
=

Ian
=

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From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 14:06:41 -0005
Subject: Re: SIII Heater Operation

MR MICHAEL D FATSI:

I too have the smae problem mentioned by (karpienp) Even with the
heat on full blast cold air still seems to flow out of the lower
footlevel vents. Someone out there must know how to fix this problem.

Sure. Readjust the flaps, as described in my XJ-S help book.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 14:06:40 -0005
Subject: Re: Thats the Brakes

…also, has anyone ever attempted to remove chrome from the alloy
wheels on the same year car - I think that is a crime (somewhere)

chroming alloy wheels that is

Offhand, I suspect removing the chrome would be a disaster. The
alloy wheels come with a finish, and this finish must be completely
removed before plating – probably with some sort of acid bath,
sandblasting, or other paint removal procedure. Removing the chrome
will probably entail some mechanical means. The long and short is
that the aluminum underneath will probably look like hell when the
chrome is removed, and you will either have to do a LOT of polishing
and/or repaint with something like the original coating.

Better idea: Why don’t you describe the wheels you’re talking about
and offer to trade with somebody? There’s probably someone on this
list, maybe even near to you, that would love to have the chromed
wheels.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 14:06:41 -0005
Subject: Re: Installation of Oil Coolers on the Mark 2

Makoto Honjo:

This is really a question for those of you down under who drive on
the “civilized” (i.e. left) side of the road, and have opted to
install oil coolers on their classic Jaguars to enable them to
withstand the 30++ degrees summer heat.

Me and my friend are contemplating the installation of an oil cooler
on our Mark 2s. The problem is that with the LHD Mark 2s, the adaptor
that fits between the crank case and the oil filter would bump into
the steering gearbox as it is. How have you gotten around this
issue.

Are there nice Australian or NZ suppliers who’ve got kits and designs
to get an oil cooler installed properly on the LHD cars?

Don’t you mean RHD cars? Or am I confused? Here in the U.S. we
drive on the “right” (i.e., correct) side of the road, and I thought
that meant we have LHD cars.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 14:06:41 -0005
Subject: Re: Omega Oil

Makoto Honjo:

Apparently you pay a lot but get your car to run smoother with
lubricating oil formulated from Pennsylvanian Paraffin crude. I
understand that Omega Oil produced by an Australian company called
Magna fits that category. How much do they cost in car shops down
under? They cost, heaven forbid, like US$40/liter for a 20W50 oil.
Would anyone be interested in exporting the stuff up here?

At $40/litre, sure! Sounds like we could get rich quick!

Are there other engine oils formulated exclusively from Pennsylvanian
Paraffin crude (the U.S. should have 'em)?

Lots. The entire line of Quaker State products ain’t called that for
nuthin’, same thing for Pennzoil. Their cost is not unusual, though,
you can pick up a quart for a dollar or so.

However, feelings from various experts I have talked to were mixed,
ranging all the way from “pretty good stuff” to “absolute crap –
would never put it in my car.” Offhand, I would expect that the high
opinions mentioned come from typical human psychology, that something
from far away and therefore outlandishly expensive must be better
than anything available locally.

After much discussion on this list and others, I offer the following
tips to anyone who wishes to spend more money on oil in order to make
their cars last longer or run better, in order from the absolute best
downward:

Install an onboard oil filtration system that removed particles
down to 5 micron or so. Normal oil filters only catch particles down
to 40-50 micron, wear due to 5-40 micron particles is extensive,
wear due to sub-5 micron particles is minimal. Claims of extended
oil change intervals are typical with these systems, but I would
exercise extreme caution in that regard.
Change your oil more often. In fact, using bargain-basement oil
and changing it entirely too often would be wonderful, only problem
would involve wearing out the threads on the drain plug! Note,
however, that some people think there are ecological concerns here
as well – you must dispose of a lot of used oil.
Next best thing is to change the FILTER more often – especially
when combined with #4 below. Filters aren’t too expensive, for
non-Jaguars they are positively cheap, and indications are they get
plugged and start bypassing LONG before the scheduled oil change
interval.
Use synthetic oil. Most synthetic oils are good enough that the
recommended oil change interval may be doubled.

For my car, I haven’t been able to rationalize #1 or #2 in my own
mind – for one thing, installing the additional filtration system
might involve some serious space concerns in the XJ-S engine
compartment! So, I personally use synthetic oil and change it
according to the manufacturer’s recommended interval for NORMAL oil
(every 6000 miles on the XJ-S) and change the filter every 3000
miles.

And, whatever you do, don’t get Isbell started on Teflon additives
again!

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: gljohn3@searle.monsanto.com
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 96 13:14:47 CST
Subject: Re: '86 XJ-S voltage regulator replacement

Kevin, congrats on taking on your voltage regulator changeout yourself. As
to your three basic questions:

Any general advice on the replacement process?

Try to get a manual, preferably a Jag workshop manual or at least a good
Haynes or equivalent. Look at the “Voltage regulator - Remove and Replace”
procedure before buying to see if it makes sense to you. The more detail the
better.
Is there a reliable (i.e. non-Lucas) replacement for this part?

Proceed with caution: even if there is a similar spec unit available (and I
don’t know of one), there is a risk of unpredictable results.
Where can I get a replacement voltage regulator for a decent price? (I
am in Lawrence, Kansas, there is a Jaguar Dealer about an hour away in
Kansas City, but they are rather expensive and probably wouldn’t sell me
just the part anyway. Some U.S. mail order company is otherwise my best
option.)

The dealer should have a parts desk where anyone can buy. It’s best to
take in the old one to maximize the chances of getting the right
replacement. Parts Departments usually refuse to take back electrical
components. Also, take along as much info about your car as you can.
You don’t want to have to make a return trip because you needed the VIN
number or something.

If you decide to order one instead, I would recommend a Jag specialist
like Welsh or Gran Turismo where the guys on the phone know the routine.
I order parts all the time and it’s very convenient. Not inexpensive…
neither of these alternatives is going to be a bargain.

For a bargain you could scrounge the “auto recycling centers”. There
may be a wrecking yard in your area that has your part, or one who
claims he can get one on his network, but that is a whole another
adventure.

Contact me off line if you want some 1-800 numbers for part suppliers.

Good luck
Gordon Johnson

From: thomas_guadagni@fmc.com (THOMAS GUADAGNI)
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 09:31:03 -0600
Subject: Re[2]: XK timing chain adjustment

–IMA.Boundary.809234848
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What does a noisy chain on a 4.2 or 3.8 sound like? My 82 XJ6 makes a
clacking noise from cylinder head area that I am trying to pin point.
In Nuetral at 1000 RPM it’s quiet but as soon as you put it in drive
it clacks like a valve way out of adjustment(valve clearance and
follower guides checked OK). Could this be chain noise?

Tom Guadagni
82 XJ6

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: XK timing chain adjustment
Author: Curt Onstott onstottc@ucs.orst.edu at Internet
Date: 11/16/96 12:58 PM

This is pretty easy to do, assuming that you have the proper tools.
However, if the chain guides are really worn it aint gonn do much good.
Basically, you have to take off the cam covers and the breather on the
front of the head. Once you see the chain adjusting tool, the procedure
is pretty obvious. You turn the adjuster until the chain is taut and
then back off just enough so that you can feel just a little bit of give
on the section of chain running under the cam.

Michael Frank wrote:

My timing chain has become a bit noisy. Does anyone have any tips on
adjustment?

Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2 (4.2L)

-Pessimist: “This ship is sinking.” -Optimist: “This ship is half full.”

Curt Onstott - Windows/DOS/PC Specialist - Information Services -
Oregon
State University. - (541) 737-1483 - Office: Kerr 217

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From: radiowsh@mindport.net
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 19:57:18 GMT
Subject: Positive vs Negative Ground

The latest issue of Skinned Knuckles (Nov 96) has a short article
entitled “Living With the Prince of Darkness” by Bill Siuru. The last
paragraph has some interesting comments about battery polarity.

“You might wonder why the British auto industry went to positive
grounding when they had used negative grounding prior to about 1936.
According to Lucas service manuals, positive grounding had several
advantages. First, positive grounding improves spark plug performance
since it makes the spark plug’s central electrode negative.
Additionally, negative (sic) grounding was used to increase the life
of the spark plugs and high-tension wires. Positive grounding reduces
electrolytic sulphation that appears around the terminals. It also
reduces electrical leakage between the battery and ground, which is
accelerated by moisture, a definite problem in damp Britain. Another
high humidity problem, corrosion at ignition points, connectors, and
soldered joints, was reduced by using positive grounding. Apparently
these advantages were outweighed by the need for the Brits to get in
step with the rest of the world, because, by the late 1960’s, British
automakers were using negative-ground electrical systems.”

I have several questions about these statements…

=46irst, is all this true? I’ve always believed that the opposite was
true, and that the combustion process was actually more efficient in a
negative-grounded system.

If what he says is correct, then what would be the reasons to go
with a negative-ground system?

Third, how in the world would polarity have any effect on the degree
of corrosion in the environment he describes?

I’d be interested in your comments…

Vince

Vince Chrzanowski radiowsh@mindport.net

“There is not a moment to be lost” - Jack Aubrey

From: cuno@macworld.ch (Cuno Schneeberger)
Date: 19 Nov 1996 20:49:04 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: XJ220 - Strange noise

Cuno & all,
Sorry if I alarmed you, Cuno.
That annoying ticking came from my valve-lifters
as I passed you.

Oh, that was you, Charles, the guy who passed me in his E-Type leaving a long
trail of engine parts and fluids behind him A friend of mine once got in
a rain of engine parts with his car as the engine of a car on a different
lane exploded…

Regards
Cuno

From: “Stuart Johnson” sjohnson@interalpha.co.uk
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 20:14:51 -0000
Subject: XJ40 door panel

I’m about to replace the door speakers in the XJ40. Before I do so,
has anyone any advice. I presume the whole door panel needs removing.
Last time I encountered such a task (on another make of car), I
suffered rattle forever more.

Stuart.

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #533

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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 20 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 534

Barrs Leaks
XJ40 Clock Resettting on start up and seat heaters
SIII Heater Operation
Re[2]: front end shake
Re[2]: E-Type brake bleed
Omega Oil
Re: '86 XJ-S voltage regulator replacement
Re: '86 XJ-S voltage regulator replacement
Re: Thats the Brakes
XJ40 door panel
xj220’s
Re: XJ40 Clock Resettting on start up and seat heaters
Re: XJ40 door panel
Re: '86 XJ-S voltage regulator replacement
Re: Thats the Brakes
Re: Opinions: Tyre Rotation
Re: Chassis shakes/ driveshaft balance
XJ: Access to E-brake calipers
R12 A/C System Conversion
Re: Opinions: Tyre Rotation
Re: Omega Oil
Re: Heater Core
RE: Re[2]: Heater Core

From: Peter Smith pjsmith@gil.com.au
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 07:07:21 +1000
Subject: Barrs Leaks

Hey guys there is a lot of sense talked by Jim Isbell & Barrie Dawson
here - the stuff is a quick fix to get you home when a leak has
developed on the road somewhere. If you look at the stuff the pellets
reminiscent of rat crap and if you think of it those terms you won’t be
persuaded to put in in your engine to fix something which isn’t broken
yet! All of these things work by hardening on contact with air and in
nearly all cooling systems there is some air.
Regards Peter Smith

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 15:46:41 -0600 (CST)
Subject: XJ40 Clock Resettting on start up and seat heaters

Does anyone know what could be causing my digital clock to start flashing and
and need resetting after starting the engine? The problem is only intermittent
but it is real pain to have to keep resetting the clock. The only time I have
seen this in other vehicles is when there has been starter or battery
problems,

It sounds just like the problem I had with my 85 XJ-S. It turned out to be a
lose connection at the battery terminal. The car started perfectly every
time, but the bad connection sould drop enough voltage to cause the clock
and computer to reset into strange modes. After tightening the terminals on
the battery I have had no more problems.

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 15:46:55 -0600 (CST)
Subject: SIII Heater Operation

I too have the smae problem mentioned by (karpienp) Even with the
heat on full blast cold air still seems to flow out of the lower
footlevel vents. Someone out there must know how to fix this problem.

Ge ta copy of Kirbys book on the XJ-S it has the same AC box on it. His
book tells you how to adjust the valves.

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 16:15:07 -0600
Subject: Re[2]: front end shake

Ordinarily I’d reply “off-list” since this started as a question about an
Olds. However, I curious why you are so adament about not having the
rotors turned. I assume your reply will be relevent to any vehicle with
disk brakes, hence we can now regard this thread as having Jag content.

MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: front end shake
Author: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com at Internet
Date: 11/18/1996 12:48 PM

Yeah, the front brake rotors are warped. Whatever you do don’t turn the
rotors to resurface them.

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 16:27:43 -0600
Subject: Re[2]: E-Type brake bleed

This is a Mime message, which your current mail reader
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Your OTS is too short!
It’s a “long-wheelbase” thing. The Series 3 OTS’s also have them.

MikeC
'74 OTS
'88 XJ-S H&E

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re:E-Type brake bleed
Author: 3030P@VM1.CC.NPS.NAVY.MIL at Internet
Date: 11/19/1996 9:32 AM

<On my 1969 2+2, there are two removeable
<panels behind the rear seat which allow easy access to the brake calipers.

Perhaps this is a 2+2 thing? My ots has no such usefull and very much
needed gizmoe.

Lloyd gizmoe-less

–IMA.Boundary.934934848–

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 15:47:02 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Omega Oil

Are there other engine oils formulated exclusively from Pennsylvanian
Paraffin crude (the U.S. should have 'em)?

Penzoil and Quaker State to name 2.

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: Tom Murray appraise@i2020.net
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 17:14:17 -0500
Subject: Re: '86 XJ-S voltage regulator replacement

Kevin Halgren wrote:

I have a 1986 XJ-S on which I need to replace the voltage regulator. I
would like to do this myself. I have three basic questions:

Any general advice on the replacement process?

Disconnect the negative battery cabal. Avoid grounding the altinator
cable to the body of the alternator.

Is there a reliable (i.e. non-Lucas) replacement for this part?

I have a GM alternator in my 86 XJ-S. Kirby outlines the procedures in
his
book.

Where can I get a replacement alternator for a decent price?

I would recommend purchasing the alternator from a rebuild shop.
Specify one with an internal voltage regulator. It is a good idea to
bench
test the alternator to ensure it is putting out the correct voltage.

Tom Murray
appraise@i2020.net

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 17:40:48 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: '86 XJ-S voltage regulator replacement

Kevin: The regulator is around $50.00 it is Lucas, I know of no
replacement for it. If yours has lasted this long,what is the gripe with
a Lucas part?
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 17:50:37 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Thats the Brakes

Have lots of time and have lots of fun. This is a JOB, take it from me
and I do it all the time(hate every moment). NO tip just get pads and go
to wwwwork. Oh yes one tip make sure the car is well supported,so as not
to fall on you.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044On
Tue, 19 Nov 1996 dneufeld@sanac.usiu.edu wrote:

Anyone have any experience on the parking brake pads on an 87 XJ6 - my guess
is that other nearby years are the same - any tips before I order the pads -
The PO probably ran to Egypt and back with the Parking brake on - also, has
anyone ever attempted to remove chrome from the alloy wheels on the same
year car - I think that is a crime (somewhere) - chroming alloy wheels that ise[De[D
Thanks for your input- am enjoying the heck out of this list Don

From: dparnell@shlci.ca
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 96 17:05:44 -0700
Subject: XJ40 door panel

From: “Stuart Johnson” sjohnson@interalpha.co.uk
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 20:14:51 -0000
Subject: XJ40 door panel

I’m about to replace the door speakers in the XJ40. Before I do so,
has anyone any advice. I presume the whole door panel needs removing.
Last time I encountered such a task (on another make of car), I
suffered rattle forever more.

Stuart.

Stuart

The door panels come off very easy. Carefully pry off the small black plate
behind the inside door handle. Remove the screw then the handle, slide out the
burled walnut panel to the rear, undo the two fastening screws and the one
behind the heater grommet rubber. There is one other which will either be a
screw or a push fastener about 6 inches lower than the heater grommet, remove
it. Slide the panel up and out.

The lower panel required the removal of the door arm rest, a plastic retainer
at the front underneath secures this one, slide the handle to the rear and
remove. Remove the screws that are exposed. There should be one screw securing
the panel at the top and one at the forward side. Gently pry off the panel which
has push clips on its perimeter you can then disconnect the electrical plugs.

The speakers are self explanatory to remove. I have had my door panels off many
times and do not have any rattles or squeaks as a result of them being removed.

I hope this helps

Derek

Derek Parnell
SHL Systemhouse
1914 12th Avenue,
Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada S4R 6G2
(306) 525-7131 dparnell@shlci.ca

From: Licensed jshuck25@mailhost.cinet.co.cn
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 21:44:11 ±800
Subject: xj220’s

jag worl promised a story on the warehouse full of xj220’s. Did they do =
it and I missed it here in China?? (just got a box of mail today from by =
buddy in the states that was sent Aug 28). my daughter had her birthday =
last month…I bought her a xj220…have trouble keeping the bateries =
charged however (AA’s) john shuck…beijing

From: tony goodall tony@goodall.u-net.com
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 23:35:59 +0000
Subject: Re: XJ40 Clock Resettting on start up and seat heaters

At 15:46 19/11/96 -0600, Jim Isbell wrote:

Does anyone know what could be causing my digital clock to start flashing and
and need resetting after starting the engine? The problem is only
intermittent
but it is real pain to have to keep resetting the clock. The only time I
have
seen this in other vehicles is when there has been starter or battery
problems,

It sounds just like the problem I had with my 85 XJ-S. It turned out to be a
lose connection at the battery terminal. The car started perfectly every
time, but the bad connection sould drop enough voltage to cause the clock
and computer to reset into strange modes. After tightening the terminals on
the battery I have had no more problems.

check for cracked terminals - I had that once, caused loads of intermittent
faults

tony

Dr. A. Goodall       http://www.u-net.com/~goodall/

From: tony goodall tony@goodall.u-net.com
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 23:35:56 +0000
Subject: Re: XJ40 door panel

At 20:14 19/11/96 -0000, Stuart Johnson wrote:

I’m about to replace the door speakers in the XJ40. Before I do so,
has anyone any advice. I presume the whole door panel needs removing.
Last time I encountered such a task (on another make of car), I
suffered rattle forever more.

Stuart.

quite easy - slide the tops of handles off first, then release other screws

I forget the rest, must be obvious!!

tony

Dr. A. Goodall       http://www.u-net.com/~goodall/

From: “Robert Johnson, D.Sc.” bjomejag@sover.net
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 18:56:58 -0400
Subject: Re: '86 XJ-S voltage regulator replacement

Kevin Halgren wrote:

Hi all,

This is my first posting here, so we’ll see how this goes. I have a 1986
XJ-S on which I need to replace the voltage regulator. I would like to do
this myself. I have three basic questions:

Any general advice on the replacement process?

Is there a reliable (i.e. non-Lucas) replacement for this part?

Special Interest Car Parts can supply a replacement regulator. Are you
confident that the problem is regulator only? There is a Motorola
replacement alternator that you may find from an after-market source.

Hope this helps,
Bob Johnson
XJS, XJ12L

From: “Robert Johnson, D.Sc.” bjomejag@sover.net
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 19:06:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Thats the Brakes

dneufeld@sanac.usiu.edu wrote:

Anyone have any experience on the parking brake pads on an 87 XJ6 - my guess
is that other nearby years are the same - any tips before I order the pads -
The PO probably ran to Egypt and back with the Parking brake on - also, has
anyone ever attempted to remove chrome from the alloy wheels on the same
year car - I think that is a crime (somewhere) - chroming alloy wheels that ise[De[D
Thanks for your input- am enjoying the heck out of this list Don

The emergency pads typically last for a very long period, if not the
life of the car. Most often it is the adjuster that sticks. A little
lubrication can help. The best approach is to remove the cable from
the actuator lever; you can than engage and release the pressure in
rapid succession. It is this rapid movement that causes the adjuster
to tighten up. Watch that you don’t adjust up too much, or you will
have problems getting the cable re-attached.

Hope this helps,
Bob Johnson
XJ50, XJ12L

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 19:28:10 -0005
Subject: Re: Opinions: Tyre Rotation

Marshall Hollister-Jones marshall@mentor.co.nz:

Conventional wisdom is to rotate tyre about half way through their life.
This is said to give better overall wear etc.

However my XJ40 handbook says not to rotate tyres.

Here comes an opinion that is sure to ruffle some feathers.

The “Conventional wisdom” of rotating tires achieves similar wear
patterns and rates on all tires simultaneously. This is helpful to
make sure you can replace tires as a set without throwing away tires
that are only half worn. Whether the practice of rotating tires
accomplishes anything else constructive is very doubtful.

For most things, such as bearings, pistons, etc., it is important
that the item be allowed to seat itself or otherwise establish a wear
pattern for its application, and if ever removed and reinstalled
considerable care is recommended that they be reinstalled exactly the
same way as they originally were.

The fact that tires are treated oppositely is probably an indication
that it’s not that great an idea to rotate tires. When a new tire is
first installed, its wear rate is relatively high; once it develops a
wear pattern according to the position it is at and the driver’s
style, the wear rate slows considerably. When the tires are rotated,
the tires all have to reestablish wear patterns for their new
positions and their wear rates go up again.

For the longest life from tires, the best idea is to leave them where
they are. The problem is that you will often have to replace two
at a time because one end wears faster than the other.

Some radials supposedly should not be rotated from one side of the
car to the other. This severely limits the rotation possibilities.
This may be what the XJ40 manual is referring to.

If you get unusual or uneven wear, rotating is not the solution. You
need to correct an alignment problem.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 20 Nov 96 10:06:04
Subject: Re: Chassis shakes/ driveshaft balance

I’ve had experience with prop shaft vibrations on another car, and the cause
was loose flange bolts. allowing the shaft to go off centre…

-Jan

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 20:06:26 -0005
Subject: XJ: Access to E-brake calipers

Lloyd:

On my 1969 2+2, there are two removeable panels behind the rear seat which allow easy access to the brake calipers. Aaargh! Dumb question: Does anyone understand why Jaguar decided NOT to provide this same access on the XJ-S? Is there a structural issue or something? Has anyone tried MAKING such an access hole? Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | - Palm’s Postulate From: DMSQ@aol.com Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 20:12:09 -0500 Subject: R12 A/C System Conversion I saw in the local auto parts store a kit being sold for conversion of an R12 system to R134a. Basically, the kit consisted of two adapter valves which, when installed to the old valves, contain permanent adhesive to bond to the old valve and prevent later cross-contamination of the system. Other than that, it contained the R134a compressor oil to be installed into the system. This kit assumes your system contains basically little or no R12. Directions state “if your system is still producing cool air, there is still R12 in the system which must be evacuated. It is “recommended” that evacuation be done by a professional mechanic” (quotes added by me). First question: is conversion to R134a that simple, merely evacuating the system, changing valves and compressor oil? Second question: how many people buying this kit are going to (a) be sure there system is evacuated of R12, and (b) try evacuating their system into the atmosphere? Any thoughts from the group? From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au Date: 20 Nov 96 9:57:56 Subject: Re: Opinions: Tyre Rotation According to tyre makers (see Dunlop and Bridgestone on WWW), modern radial tyres must always rotate in the same direction, so no swapping from side to side but swapping front to rear is a good idea. Jan From: nbx@atom.ansto.gov.au Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 12:42:23 +1100 Subject: Re: Omega Oil At 14:06 19/11/96 -0005, you wrote:
Makoto Honjo:

Apparently you pay a lot but get your car to run smoother with
lubricating oil formulated from Pennsylvanian Paraffin crude. I
understand that Omega Oil produced by an Australian company called
Magna fits that category. How much do they cost in car shops down
under? They cost, heaven forbid, like US$40/liter for a 20W50 oil.
Would anyone be interested in exporting the stuff up here?

At $40/litre, sure! Sounds like we could get rich quick!

Australian brand !? Never seen it in normal auto outlets here in Sydney.
Sounds like a bit of a take if you ask me.

Are there other engine oils formulated exclusively from Pennsylvanian
Paraffin crude (the U.S. should have 'em)?

What is so special about this crude? All multinational companies use oil
from a number of sources and produce a uniform quality product which meet
the latest specs. Oils is oils. BP, Shell, Castrol … they all meet the
same specs.

However, feelings from various experts I have talked to were mixed,
ranging all the way from “pretty good stuff” to “absolute crap –
would never put it in my car.” Offhand, I would expect that the high
opinions mentioned come from typical human psychology, that something
from far away and therefore outlandishly expensive must be better
than anything available locally.

Yes, and oil retailers use this to push brands on to people who don’t know
any better. Your Jag engine is not that different internally to other
engines. If the “good brand” oil currently on special in your local
supermarket store meets the specs for your car, then there is no problem.
Just get the best you can get for the price. We have the same problem here,
if it comes from USA and UK then it must be really good, at lest much better
then locally produces Shell, Castrol, BP etc.

After much discussion on this list and others, I offer the following
tips to anyone who wishes to spend more money on oil in order to make
their cars last longer or run better, in order from the absolute best
downward:

Good advice Kirbert. If you can’t install extra filters just change the oil
and the filter regularly.

Ned
'61 Mk2

From: DMSQ@aol.com
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 21:09:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Heater Core

Let me add my 2 cents against the Barr’s Leaks.

When I took my radiator in to be rodded out, the shop indicated that 18 tubes
were clogged solid and couldn’t be rodded out!

Nothing is better than finding the overheating problem and fixing it to start
with.

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 20 Nov 96 13:02:38
Subject: RE: Re[2]: Heater Core

Graham Watson : But if you have evidence to back up your statement, I’d
really like to
hear it !

The problem with Jaguar’s Bars Leaks advice is that the dimwit who decided to
incorporate it didn’t realise that the stuff is designed to be dribbled slowly
into hot, circulating water so it can dissolve - IAW, the typical conventional
radiator filler cap situation. The S2 V12 filler cap (can’t comment on later
models) is located on the header tank, where the only heat is from the engine
bay environment and there is no circulation. This tank is connected to the
radiator only via the heater return hose, so if you put the BL rat droppings
in, they’ll just sit there - and as and when the system needs water, it’ll suck
in a spoonful, which promptly lodges in the radiator.

Trust me, I have had to recore two radiators (17 and 18 years old) because of
this. The real damage is done over time, because the stuff seems to become
permanently cemented, perhaps with calcium carbonate.

For that matter, I have tried BL as a temporary solution in leaking radiators
in conventional cars (one Holdem, one Datsun) and while there’s been no
blocking, all it’s done is create deposits around the (very small) leaks. It’s
useless rubbish. It may well have some lubricating effect on the water pump,
but anti-freeze is satisfactory if not superior in this respect. I believe the
BL advice comes down from prehistoric days before ethylene glycol antifreeze
existed.

-Jan

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #534

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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 20 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 535

Re: Thats the Brakes
RE: Re[2]: Heater Core
Re:E-Type brake bleed
Re: E-Type brake bleed
85 XJ-S: Oil Pressure Sending Unit
Barrs Leaks
Barrs Leaks
Re: '86 XJ-S voltage regulator replacement
Tyres - XJ6 - SIII
Re: Opinions: Tyre Rotation
Re: Steering symptoms
Re: Positive vs Negative Ground
XJ-S differential - finally sorted
Re: Opinions: Tyre Rotation
Re: XJ-S differential - finally sorted
Chassis shakes / driveshaft balance
RE: Re[2]: Heater Core
Re: Tyres - XJ6 - SIII
Re: xj220’s Available
Re: 85 XJ-S: Oil Pressure Sending Unit
Re: XJ6 S3 too cool

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 20 Nov 96 13:16:16
Subject: Re: Thats the Brakes

It’s a fairly tinkery job, and definitely easier the second time… If you have
a reasonable manual with a good picture of the system, patience is really all
you need (you’ll be working by feel as you can’t see the upper side of the
handbrake bits). A point: the bronze fork that positions the handbrake pads off
the disk will be bent in if the pads are seriously worn and will need to be
opened out to fit the new pads. Just tinker until it slips in easily.

Another point: the self-adjusting ratchet mechanisms in the pad holders are
quite likely to be clogged with semi-carbonised grease and dysfunctional; open
the pad holders up, clean out the ratchet mechanism and grease very lightly
with high-temp grease or MOS2 (molybdenum disulphide). Drowning them in grease
as the factory did is just silly; the ratchets may rotate one turn every few
months and don’t really need lubrication.

-Jan

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 20 Nov 96 13:02:38
Subject: RE: Re[2]: Heater Core

Graham Watson : But if you have evidence to back up your statement, I’d
really like to
hear it !

The problem with Jaguar’s Bars Leaks advice is that the dimwit who decided to
incorporate it didn’t realise that the stuff is designed to be dribbled slowly
into hot, circulating water so it can dissolve - IAW, the typical conventional
radiator filler cap situation. The S2 V12 filler cap (can’t comment on later
models) is located on the header tank, where the only heat is from the engine
bay environment and there is no circulation. This tank is connected to the
radiator only via the heater return hose, so if you put the BL rat droppings
in, they’ll just sit there - and as and when the system needs water, it’ll suck
in a spoonful, which promptly lodges in the radiator.

Trust me, I have had to recore two radiators (17 and 18 years old) because of
this. The real damage is done over time, because the stuff seems to become
permanently cemented, perhaps with calcium carbonate.

For that matter, I have tried BL as a temporary solution in leaking radiators
in conventional cars (one Holdem, one Datsun) and while there’s been no
blocking, all it’s done is create deposits around the (very small) leaks. It’s
useless rubbish. It may well have some lubricating effect on the water pump,
but anti-freeze is satisfactory if not superior in this respect. I believe the
BL advice comes down from prehistoric days before ethylene glycol antifreeze
existed.

-Jan

From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 22:28:32 -0500
Subject: Re:E-Type brake bleed

Hi all,
I don’t know much about later E’s, but on my '62 there
is an access ‘hole’ in the boot (up on the ‘platform’,
behind the rear bulkhead) which accesses, certainly the
handbrake calipers. -I know, one suffered from a loose
bolt and said bolt was removed, painstakingly, through
that access. You have to remove the cover plate which
looks (shaped like) a sun visor -it’s screwed down to the
‘floor’ of the boot (upper platform)
If it’s not the same on later E’s…never mind!

Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
'62 E-Type, ots, flat floor.

    -------------------------------------------------------------
"Laugh? I thought I'd die!" 
		       A. Boleyn
    -------------------------------------------------------------

From: Steve Kemp skemp1@ix.netcom.com
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 22:24:07 -0800
Subject: Re: E-Type brake bleed

Michael Frank wrote:

Robert:

This seems waaaaaaaaaay too complicated. I have several lengths of tubing
in various sizes that I use for this…they have been with me so long, I

Why not just vacuum the lines? This is what the shops do.

The Mityvac works just fine. Just make sure the masters are primed.

SK
62 OTS

From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 21:06:57 -0700
Subject: 85 XJ-S: Oil Pressure Sending Unit

Hi to all,

All the recent postings about the oil pressure readings got me thinking
again about my pressure readings which start up cold at near 75 and after
the car warms drop to 45 (maybe), or, zero (at leat it appears like that) at
stoplights!!! My heart still skips beats even though I’ve had this pattern
for several years…now the question…anybody have a good source for a new
oil pressure sending unit? SICP wants almost $70.00 plus shipping for one.
Any off the shelf replacements available at the local auto part store? Can
the sending unit be reconditioned?. Thanks…

Rob W-M
85 XJ-S

From: charles daly cdaly@passport.ca
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 23:12:50 -0500
Subject: Barrs Leaks

All,
I know nothing about Barrs Leak but I can tell
you of an old-time home-remedy for a leaking
rad (ready to laugh? -it’s true) black pepper.
Any old time mechanic will tell you that.
(Hold the salt)
Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
'62 E-Type, ots, flat floor.

    -------------------------------------------------------------
"Laugh? I thought I'd die!" 
		       A. Boleyn
    -------------------------------------------------------------

From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 96 23:29:00 EST
Subject: Barrs Leaks

From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
*** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FE21
*** INTERNET - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM *** IBMMAIL - AUIBMSPM ****
Subject: Barrs Leaks

Charles, whole peppercorns or ground pepper ?

REGARDS…Shane
* Forwarding note from SMTP2 --IINUS1 11/20/96 15:27 *

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Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 23:12:50 -0500
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All,
I know nothing about Barrs Leak but I can tell
you of an old-time home-remedy for a leaking
rad (ready to laugh? -it’s true) black pepper.
Any old time mechanic will tell you that.
(Hold the salt)
Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
'62 E-Type, ots, flat floor.

    -------------------------------------------------------------
"Laugh? I thought I'd die!"
		       A. Boleyn
    -------------------------------------------------------------

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 00:00:43 -0005
Subject: Re: '86 XJ-S voltage regulator replacement

Bob Johnson:

There is a Motorola
replacement alternator that you may find from an after-market source.

Oh, yeah? PLEASE send info!

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: “John Littler” auibmdak@ibmmail.com
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 00:19:02 EST
Subject: Tyres - XJ6 - SIII

The current discussion on to rotate or not remindedme of something I’ve
been meaning to ask - has anyone tried fitting tyres wider than standard.
To be specific I have 205/15/70 on the front and 215/15/70 on the rear.
I would like to go to 235/15/60 all round - will I have enough clearance
at the front ? What is everyone else running on ? I’ve got the standard
(on the Sov.) “pepperpot” 15" x 7" alloys. Nb the mismatched widths are
thanks to the P.O.
John

Level 1, 29-57 Christie St.
St Leonards NSW 2065
Ph: +61-2-9937-8063 Fax: +61-2-9937-8100
Mobile +61-419-617-619

From: DMSQ@aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 00:21:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Opinions: Tyre Rotation

I second your opinion, Kirby.

I think a tyre spends a lot of time getting accustomed to its place, and
there is no point in changing it.

Poor tyre wear is a symptom of an underlying problem.

From: Robert Bradley Robert.Bradley@bh.eyi.com
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 00:11:47 -0600
Subject: Re: Steering symptoms

Andrew, you asked.

What are the symptoms of ball joint wear?
Jack up the wheel and grab the top and bottom, attempt to wobble wheel in and
out grab front and back - do same. Wobble top/bottom only = Balljoints. Wobble
both ways = wheel bearings and maybe balljoints also.
How do they compare to wear in the steering column linkage?
hard to notice without above test.
(1984 SJ6 has about 3/4 in play in the steering wheel and tracks slighty
left or right depending on which side of the play the wheel was last on
before I set the steering wheel straight again)
Maybe I need a good alignment?

I’ll tell you before Kirby does - I Don’t Think you are in immediate danger of
serious failure but you certainly need new rack bushes, urgently.

and get the aftermarket polyurethane ones as I’m am told they are much better
(last longer). Do it now, the improvement will be magic.

Bert, in regard to your response

This weekend I replaced the track rod ends (I think this should be the ball
joints?)
I think I can straighten out some terminology
TRACK ROD ENDS are the joints on each end of the STEERING RACK, they are
attached to TIE RODS which connect to the STEEERING ARM on tthe wheel via a TIE
ROD END. BALL JOINTS are the joints which allow the wheel assembly to be turned
on a vertical axis by he steering.

There was some play before - just the feeling that I always had to do small
movements
with the steering wheel even on straight ahead. Acting with a lever on the
track rod >ends showed some distinct play.
and differentiate some symptoms. Your symptoms (Bert) are consistent with
track or tie rod end wear (can get dangerous if not fixed). Andrew
specifically mentions the steering wheel staying on the side to which it was
last turned which I believe is more in line with the bushes than the ends.
I’ve had your problem Bert (changing the track rod ends stopped the wandering)
and I’ve currently got your problem Andrew.

Robert Bradley
87 XJ-S, 82 XJs3, 82 Daimler, jx220 (2 off radio controlled models!) yes jx not
XJ - Chinese assembly not Mexican.

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 07:55:45 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: Positive vs Negative Ground

The latest issue of Skinned Knuckles (Nov 96) has a short article
entitled “Living With the Prince of Darkness” by Bill Siuru. The last
paragraph has some interesting comments about battery polarity.

“You might wonder why the British auto industry went to positive
grounding when they had used negative grounding prior to about 1936.
According to Lucas service manuals, positive grounding had several
advantages. First, positive grounding improves spark plug performance
since it makes the spark plug’s central electrode negative.
Additionally, negative (sic) grounding was used to increase the life
of the spark plugs and high-tension wires. Positive grounding reduces
electrolytic sulphation that appears around the terminals. It also
reduces electrical leakage between the battery and ground, which is
accelerated by moisture, a definite problem in damp Britain. Another
high humidity problem, corrosion at ignition points, connectors, and
soldered joints, was reduced by using positive grounding. Apparently
these advantages were outweighed by the need for the Brits to get in
step with the rest of the world, because, by the late 1960’s, British
automakers were using negative-ground electrical systems.”

I have several questions about these statements…

=46irst, is all this true? I’ve always believed that the opposite was
true, and that the combustion process was actually more efficient in a
negative-grounded system.

I think it’s true, at least the part of electrolytic sulphation. If I remember
well older telephone systems had a positive ground for this reason

If what he says is correct, then what would be the reasons to go
with a negative-ground system?

being compatible …

- Matthias

From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 22:44:57 GMT
Subject: XJ-S differential - finally sorted

In February the diff whined on overrun and I had it changed by a Jaguar
garage. The (Jaguar, no less) rebuilt diff they put in erm, whined on
overrun, so I had it changed again in April.

Two weeks ago that diff developed - you guessed it - whine on overrun.
I had it changed again, by a different garage this time. Service recep-
tion chap said: “Yeah, we get problems with these Jaguar rebuilt diffs
all the time, some are just as noisy as the ones they replace.”

Appalling. For all other diff noise sufferers out there, the moral of
the story is clear. Have it changed and changed and changed again (how
many diff changes can you fit into a 12 month warranty period ?) until
you get one that performs to spec. As in does the job quietly.

Quality Assurance at Jaguar Cars Ltd , are you listening ?

Regards,

Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 20 Nov 96 17:21:38
Subject: Re: Opinions: Tyre Rotation

One small comment on tyre rotation: on my particular XJ12C, the front tyres
have some extra wear on their outside shoulders from hard cornering. The
shoulders on the rear tyres are completely unworn. Swapping front to rear thus
gives me an extra set of shoulders to wear out. Apart from the outside of the
shoulders, the front tyres wear flat (and more than the rears), so it’s not
too-low tyre pressure. Just lots of fun on a twisty country road…

Pressures? 32 psi rear, 37 front produces the least cornering squeal and
maximum grip. Higher and lower is worse. The tyres are 235-60x15 on 7in alloy
rims.

-Jan

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 20 Nov 96 19:05:21
Subject: Re: XJ-S differential - finally sorted

Stefan Schulz : In February the diff whined on overrun and I had it
changed by a Jaguar
garage.

Jeez, I dunno, mate - I reckon I’ve got a better solution. The PO had run the
diff on my XJ12C without oil for an unknown period - seals blown, what else -
and the appearance of the crownwheel and pinion was such that I pulled the
spare set out of a junk diff and took the lot down to Gradan Gears here in
Sydney. It turned out the bearings were history, too, which was no surprise
considering the noises. The man at GG told me they’d try to recover the
original crown wheel and pinion, “as they’re expensive and you might need the
spare set later”.
Nine hundred odd (from memory) Ozbucks later, I got my overhauled, lapped and
meshed diff (with new limited slip disks) back, and it makes no detectable
noise of any kind. Doesn’t leak oil, either… And I still have my spare
crownwheel and pinion, not to mention a high opinion of Gradan Gears!

-Jan

From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 10:06:20 -0800
Subject: Chassis shakes / driveshaft balance

Hi! whoever has the problem.

When I bought my Series I XJ 6 five years ago, it was “shakin’ al over the
place”, both when idling and driving. It turned out that the rudt proofing shop
had sprayed a thick layer of anti rust goo (Tectyl) on one side of the
driveshaft, causing it to rotate eccentrically.

I scraped off the stuff, replaced the universal joints (crosses) and it was
fixed; t’was like a new car!

Regards,
Bard

______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no

From: Graham Watson grahamw@microsoft.com
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 03:05:37 -0800
Subject: RE: Re[2]: Heater Core

So it looks as though the owners manual was just plain wrong, and that
I’m going to be draining and refilling my cooling system this weekend,
without the Barrs Leaks.

Many Thanks for the info, shame Jaguar didn’t know better !

-----Original Message-----
From: Jan Wikstroem [SMTP:Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au]
Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 1996 1:03 PM
To: jag-lovers
Subject: RE: Re[2]: Heater Core

Graham Watson : But if you have evidence to back up your statement, I’d
really like to
hear it !

The problem with Jaguar’s Bars Leaks advice is that the dimwit who decided to
incorporate it didn’t realise that the stuff is designed to be dribbled
slowly
into hot, circulating water so it can dissolve - IAW, the typical
conventional
radiator filler cap situation. The S2 V12 filler cap (can’t comment on later
models) is located on the header tank, where the only heat is from the engine
bay environment and there is no circulation. This tank is connected to the
radiator only via the heater return hose, so if you put the BL rat droppings
in, they’ll just sit there - and as and when the system needs water, it’ll
suck
in a spoonful, which promptly lodges in the radiator.

Trust me, I have had to recore two radiators (17 and 18 years old) because of
this. The real damage is done over time, because the stuff seems to become
permanently cemented, perhaps with calcium carbonate.

For that matter, I have tried BL as a temporary solution in leaking radiators
in conventional cars (one Holdem, one Datsun) and while there’s been no
blocking, all it’s done is create deposits around the (very small) leaks.
It’s
useless rubbish. It may well have some lubricating effect on the water pump,
but anti-freeze is satisfactory if not superior in this respect. I believe
the
BL advice comes down from prehistoric days before ethylene glycol antifreeze
existed.

-Jan

From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson)
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 04:30:01 -0800
Subject: Re: Tyres - XJ6 - SIII

You wrote:

I would like to go to 235/15/60 all round - will I have enough
clearance
at the front ? What is everyone else running on ? I’ve got the
standard
(on the Sov.) “pepperpot” 15" x 7" alloys.

We use the new 16" rims on our cars and run 225/16/55 P6000 …

all the best
tony

VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web

From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson)
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 04:33:26 -0800
Subject: Re: xj220’s Available

You wrote:

jag worl promised a story on the warehouse full of xj220’s. Did they
do =
it and I missed it here in China??

TWR has available all of the Fast Master cars at L90k pounds …
some in very decent shape… need a/c and interior for the road…

all the best
tony

VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 07:45:34 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: 85 XJ-S: Oil Pressure Sending Unit

Rob: The numbers that you give for your oil pressure are in the normal range.
The V-12 runs very low oil pressure at idle,looks like “0” but is not really.
I would not worry about the sending unit until it starts to leak.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: Andy.Reynolds@lifesciences.com
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 15:11:16 +0200
Subject: Re: XJ6 S3 too cool

John Littler said

“Nick, Bert and Volcker all mentioned that their S3’s ran at around 80 C
in “normal” operation - my S3 does also, but it didn’t until a month ago.=20
…”

To check your thermostat operation start with a cold engine.

Run it at idle and feel the temperature of the top pipe (from
engine to radiator) every 30 seconds.

I believe it should remain cool until the thermostat begins to open.

It should soon feel very warm.

I replaced the thermostat on my Rover which cured low
temp guage readings and poor heater output. The
top pipe temperature always followed the block temp,
(thermostat always stuck open) even from cold.

Now it waits and then goes ping! - Hot!

The XJ6 has the same cool symptoms …

… and I have bought a thermostat (about 2 months ago!)

Anyway, all jags are cool cars - that’s why we bought them!

Andy Reynolds Andy.Reynolds@lifesciences.com
XJ6 SIII 1985
Engineering Manager
Denley Instruments
UK +44 1403 783441 Ext. 262

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #535

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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 20 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 536

Re: 85 XJ-S: Oil Pressure Sending Unit
Re: R12 A/C System Conversion
Chromed Wheels
85 XJ-S: Oil Pressure Sending Unit
parts for sale!
Positive vs Negative Ground
Re: Positive Vs Negative Ground
Teddy bears (minor jag content)
Re: Teddy bears (minor jag content)
BL removal
XJ40 VCM Message
Chainsaw
hello to all jag lovers
SALVAGE JAG
Air Pump on XJ40
RE: Tyres - XJ6 - SIII
Re: Tyres - XJ6 - SIII
Positive ground electronic ignition
1991 XJS tune-up kit $$$$
re: Paraffin Oils (not Jag but relevant)
Re:E-Type brake bleed
XJ40: Rear Diff Whine
Re: Positive ground electronic ignition

From: Tom Murray appraise@i2020.net
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 08:24:00 -0500
Subject: Re: 85 XJ-S: Oil Pressure Sending Unit

Weiss-Malik wrote:

Hi to all,

My pressure readings which start up cold at near 75 and after
the car warms drop to 45 (maybe), or, zero (at leat it appears like that) at
stoplights!!!

My oil pressure showed similar readings on 86 XJ-S. My problem was a
bad
oil sensor. The sensor was leaking oil and showing a low reading. The
oil
sensor is located on a tree behind the accelerator linkage. I got my
replacement oil sensor for less than $20 at John�s Cars and replaced it
in about
2 hours.

Tom Murray
appraise@i2020.net

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 09:23:59 -0005
Subject: Re: R12 A/C System Conversion

I saw in the local auto parts store a kit being sold for conversion of an R12
system to R134a.

First question: is conversion to R134a that simple, merely evacuating the
system, changing valves and compressor oil?

Yes, it is that simple.

Second question: how many people buying this kit are going to (a) be sure
there system is evacuated of R12, and (b) try evacuating their system into
the atmosphere?

I have already met a couple. I guess the problem lies in the
understanding of the word “evacuate”. Evacuating the system requires
a vacuum pump. If by “evacuating into the atmosphere” you mean just
opening the valves, you aren’t doing any good. If you mean using the
vacuum pump to blow the CFC’s into our precious ozone layer, well,
I’ll leave that discussion to others. At least the NEXT time you’ll
be blowing R134a, much less harmful.

By the way, there are two cheap and easy ways I know of to rig such a
vacuum pump cheap. The first is to rip a compressor out of a
refrigerator and use it. The other is a product sold by Snap-On, a
compressed air powered vacuum pump that a solid aluminum block the size of a deck of
cards and has no moving parts; the flow of the compressed air through
the passages inside the block draws a vacuum on the line connected to
the system. Only two problems: 1) it takes a LOT of compressed air,
make sure you have at least a 3hp air compressor; and 2) rumor has it
that Snap-On no longer offers this product because it never breaks so
once everybody has one they no longer sell.

I will add a couple more notes. Conversion to R134a reduces the
cooling capacity of the system by something like 10%. This is a
serious concern on building A/C systems that may not have that much
margin, but for automotive use it’s difficult to notice the
difference – auto A/C is typically radically oversized to provide a
quick cooldown when you start the car.

And some discussion on O-rings. Rumors abound that the O-rings in an
R12 system must be replaced when switching to R134a. Well, yes and
no. The O-rings sold for use with R-134a systems are in fact made of
the same material as normal O-rings. The difference is that they are
made a little fatter than standard, because the lubricant used with
R134a tends to make this elastomer shrink a little, as opposed to the
original R12 lubricant that made it swell a little. The fact that
they often appear to be blue, green, or some other color is due to a
dusting on them to mark them as the fat items – it’ll wipe off on
your fingers.

But which lubricant are we talking about? With R134a there are two
lubricants, one intended for systems designed for R134a and one
intended for systems converted from R12. If you are using the
latter, the existing O-rings won’t be a problem – unless they were
on their last legs anyway, in which case the refrigerant change will
probably cause them to give up for good. If the system is old and
you have it discharged anyway, it’s not a bad idea to just go through
and install all new O-rings, at least whereever you can get to them.

As far as cleaning out the R12 oil, it turns out that not worrying
about the small amount left on the internal surfaces of the system
won’t hurt anything – and in fact may help keep your O-rings from
shrinking too much.

Finally, all this is moot because you don’t wanna be converting to
R134a anyway, the better stuff – R406a – has been approved and
doesn’t require all this grief.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: dneufeld@sanac.usiu.edu
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 05:41:52 -0800
Subject: Chromed Wheels

I was politely reminded that this might be of interest to the group so here
goes - I am relatively new to this group and just purchased a 87 XJ6 with
chromed wheels (not Jaguar originals obviously) - the problem is that they are
peeling badly and I was wondering if anyone has run into this problem - the
wheels are the originals but the PO must have chromed them - I do not, as yet,
have the service records but am working on that - Would like to remove the
chrome if possible since they look pretty bad at this point Don

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 08:58:40 -0600 (CST)
Subject: 85 XJ-S: Oil Pressure Sending Unit

oil pressure sending unit? SICP wants almost $70.00 plus shipping for one.
Any off the shelf replacements available at the local auto part store? Can
the sending unit be reconditioned?. Thanks…

Get my book"The XJ6 Jagiar from Bumper to Bumper" where you will find a
discussion on the oil pressure sender. In a nut shell. that price is not
too bad and no you cant recondition it. At least not economicaly. I have
one apart now that I am looking at to see if a cluge can be made to make it
work, but it is for entertainment only, it will take hours and hours to make
it work again.

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: danm@access-one.com
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 09:02:20 -0600
Subject: parts for sale!

hi, first of all i am located in kansas, usa.

i have a used engine, transmission, manifolds, carbs etc.
this is from a mid-70’s (im guessing here) XJ6.

if anyone is interested in part or all, let me know & well discuss
prices…

danM@access-one.com

or work phone
913-263-1455

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 09:16:03 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Positive vs Negative Ground

The suggestion made that positive ground would prevent corrosion is
obviously false. Other wise since the connector (floating somewhere in a
wiring harness) could just be turned around to prevent corosion. This os
obviously not true. The connector has no Idea where the wires that come to
it come from physicaly, only what polarity they are. Polarity will have no
effect on corosion.

Polarity will have an effect on the shape (it will be reversed) of the
ERROSION of the breaker points, but again it wont make any difference the
errosion will happen anyway.

As to the combustion, I doubt it, but its possible. But since the spark
coil is a tramsformer it would be easier to reverse the connections on the
secondary. This would make the block the “hot” side and the electrode the
ground side. So I doubt that it makes any difference or spark coils would
be made that way. Spark coils are currently made so the secondary and
primarry have a common ground. But it would be just as easy to remove the
common ground and reverse the secondary to reverse the polarity of the spark
and it would work just fine.

While on spark coils, has anyone ever tried adding a second spark coil to an
XJ6 the way they do to the XJ-S to increase the energy available. I have
wondered if it would make any difference in the combustion.

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: “Lee Walden” lwalden@ebmud.com
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 07:30:22 -0800
Subject: Re: Positive Vs Negative Ground

At least in the U.S. the phone systems are still positive ground. If you
measure the voltage between ground and the tip lead of the phone wires, you
should see about -48 volts. DON’T do this if the phone is ringing as the
voltage jumps to over -96V.

----------snip------------

From: Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR mfl@kheops.cray.com
I think it’s true, at least the part of electrolytic sulphation. If I
remember
well older telephone systems had a positive ground for this reason

From: “Claus, Mike” claus@wg.com
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 96 10:58:00 EST
Subject: Teddy bears (minor jag content)

    I came across an interesting www link that I thought might be 
    of some interest to my fellow Jag Heads.
    
    take a look at 
    
    http://www1.usa1.com/~pharris
    
    These folks are selling gift teddy bears outfitted to appeal 
    to British Car Enthusiasts - including Jaguar.
    
    Thought it might make an interesting Xmas gift for those car 
    nuts on your list.
    
    The usual disclaimer - I don't know anything about these folks 
    excepts what is on their web page.  I never bought anything 
    from them.  Use them at your own risk....
    
    
    - mclaus

From: Doug Heinen povtybay@wolfenet.com
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 08:29:12 +0930
Subject: Re: Teddy bears (minor jag content)

Claus, Mike wrote:

    http://www1.usa1.com/~pharris

    These folks are selling gift teddy bears outfitted to appeal
    to British Car Enthusiasts - including Jaguar.

    Thought it might make an interesting Xmas gift for those car
    nuts on your list.

Hi Mike!

Any chance you’re related to that St. Nick fellow…?

doug heinen

From: “Ernie Laprairie” lapraire@enterprise.cybersurf.net
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 10:12:24 MST
Subject: BL removal

Ok I did it to, put rat poison in the radiator. Now how can we get
it out. Any chemical suggestions, would radiator cleaner hurt the
water pump berarings.
Ernie Laprairie
http://www.jayman.com
88 xjs The lurker
lapraire@cia.com

From: RDIAZ@maila.harris.com (RDIAZ)
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 20:24:07 -0500
Subject: XJ40 VCM Message

 Can anyone help with the following mystery?  Almost every day, 
 about 3 minutes after starting (cold and hot) my 1990 XJ40, the 
 engine misfires for about 3 seconds and returns to normal, except 
 that the "Check Engine" lamp lights up and remains on.  A check of 
 the VCM displays "FUEL44" and "FAIL44".  My car has 50k miles.  
 This mystery began after I cleaned the engine last weekend.
 Any suggestions will be appreciated.
 
 Ricardo Diaz
 Melbourne, Florida, USA
 rdiaz@harris.com
 <end>

From: dneufeld@sanac.usiu.edu
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 08:28:08 -0800
Subject: Chainsaw

Just one last attempt before I pull out my parking brake assembly - someone
mentioned there might be an access plate behind the back seat to get at the
brake pads (am I dreaming?) – Has anyone looked behind the back seat? If not,
where is my chain saw - (kidding) (maybe???) Don

From: KEN FUNG <“keny@netvigator.com”@netvigator.com>
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 01:32:12 +0800
Subject: hello to all jag lovers

Hello,

As a jag-lover since I was 10 years old, I like the look of a fat cat

from the front and the long slim outline from the side, thanks to the
designer that till today they still can keep the soul of this design.

I'm now 35 years old and a insurance underwriter in Hong Kong. I just

got a 87 Daimler at a very good deal from one of my good friend ( nesrly
free), in here i have to express my thanks to him.

I'm now starting to re-condition the car by myself and i found a lot of

small problem like low brake pressure and fuel failure on the VCM if you
have any information please kindly give me some help.

Thank you for you kind attention.

Best regards and good health to all your cats(jag)

Fung Kui
keny@netvigator.com

From: paul r martin martinpr@secis.com
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 12:41:52 -0800
Subject: SALVAGE JAG

I’ve told before of a salvage dealer that keeps late Jags. he called
today with a 1992 xj6 50k miles was in fresh water flood (not dash)
no body damage $11000 US. & I have a 1994 vanden Plas 30k miles in great
shape under factory waranty . IT had $6000 dollars damage to right
front at 23k miles(have all paper work from the repair) Title is good
will sell $25000 very clean in & out Jade green.
U.S. or best offer. see in Birmingham Alabama.

From: Mike Everatt meveratt@Direct.CA
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 09:58:36 -0800
Subject: Air Pump on XJ40

Hi all,

I have a very early XJ40, and I just noticed yesterday that there is no Air Pump on the vehicle. I believe it would normally sit above the alternator. The socket for the air pump relay is empty, but it is labelled “Air Pump”. Any ideas if this is stock, or modified by PO? I believe that air pumps are only used to reduce start-up emmisions, and I know that later XJ40’s had them. Are they neccesary?

Mike Everatt
1987 XJ40 (Canada)

From: Mike Everatt meveratt@Direct.CA
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 09:54:25 -0800
Subject: RE: Tyres - XJ6 - SIII

Hi all,

This may seem like sacriledge, but I want to run snow tires on steel rims for the winter, and save my expensive alloys for summer use. Does anyone know if the rims from chev, Ford, etc, will fit, or do I need to find Jag steel rims?

BTW, the alloys are standard 15" x 7" Pepperpots.

Mike Everatt
1987 XJ40

From: Anthony Parkinson[SMTP:vicarage@ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 1996 4:30 AM
To: John Littler
Cc: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Re: Tyres - XJ6 - SIII

You wrote:

I would like to go to 235/15/60 all round - will I have enough
clearance
at the front ? What is everyone else running on ? I’ve got the
standard
(on the Sov.) “pepperpot” 15" x 7" alloys.

We use the new 16" rims on our cars and run 225/16/55 P6000 …

all the best
tony

VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web

From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 13:27:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Tyres - XJ6 - SIII

On Nov 20, 9:54am, Mike Everatt wrote:

Subject: RE: Tyres - XJ6 - SIII
Hi all,

This may seem like sacriledge, but I want to run snow tires on steel rims for
the winter, and save my expensive alloys for summer use. Does anyone know if
the rims from chev, Ford, etc, will fit, or do I need to find Jag steel rims?

BTW, the alloys are standard 15" x 7" Pepperpots.

Mike Everatt
1987 XJ40

Many Chevy rims have the same 5x4.75" bolt pattern but use a smaller lug than
the 1/2" that Jaguar uses, also, you will be very lucky if you find an offset
that works. At one time I was looking to use Chevy alloys on my E-type - long
story… Good idea for the XJ40 though, save the good rims for summer.

Mark McChesney
'65 E-type ots

From: “Lauren E. Pratt” pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 96 12:08:34 PST
Subject: Positive ground electronic ignition

Some time in the past few days someone asked about electronic
ignition for positive ground systems. Last night I found an old
add from XK Unlimited for a “Electronic Ignition Kit for
Positive Ground Jaguars. From Crane Cams, (formerly Allison).
Kit eliminates points and condensor, includes new trigger unit,
amplifier, hardware and instructions.” Part number 17-1554
price $134.95.
XK Unlimited
1-800-444-5247 Fax 805-544-1664
850 Fiero Lane
San Luis Obispo, Ca 93401

All disclaimers apply

Cheers Lauren

Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 11/20/96
Time: 12:08:34 PM

This message was sent by Chameleon

From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 13:37:05 -0500
Subject: 1991 XJS tune-up kit $$$$

I noticed that the plugs, wires, dist. cap etc. included in the standard tune
up kits from SICP are more than twice as expensive for an XJS with the
Marelli ignition. About $220 vs $110.
Is this just due to the distributor cap, or are the ignition wires different
also?
I’ve decided I will find some way to avoid $220 for a simple tune up kit.
Thanks,
Julian Mullaney

From: Kyle Chatman kchatman@mail.coin.missouri.edu
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 12:39:42 -0600
Subject: re: Paraffin Oils (not Jag but relevant)

I used Pennzoil for several years until I once removed the valve covers =
on a 460 cu inch ford engine and found hard ridges. They reminded me of =
some feature of ice sculpted by heat and wind. It must have been the wax =
build-up resulting from my almost exclusive use of the vehicle for short =
trips (2-3 miles). In my opinion, a paraffin oil is probably fine if =
your engine almost always reaches full operating temperature (20 =
minutes?). Mine doesn’t so I switched oils.

From: “Robert J. Richardson” rrichardson@eurekanet.com
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 14:19:16 -0500
Subject: Re:E-Type brake bleed

Hi all,
I don’t know much about later E’s, but on my '62 there
is an access ‘hole’ in the boot (up on the ‘platform’,
behind the rear bulkhead) which accesses, certainly the
handbrake calipers. –

Tried accessing the bleed nipples through this opening in my 64 E fhc. I
could access the parking brake, but since it is self-adjusting the only
usefulness this aperature offers is possibly to replace the pads. The bleed
nipples cannot be accessed through this opening, which, I believe was only
useful to earlier Jags.

From: cobac@ix.netcom.com
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 12:01:32 -0800
Subject: XJ40: Rear Diff Whine

Hi all,
I seem to have a whining noise from the rear of my car (1989 XJ40-VDP w/
limited slip). It increases with speed, and becomes very constant and loud
when on the highway (over 50 mph). It doesn’t seem to change when turning
or anything, it’s basically a constant whine with a sort of slight wobbley
sound (sorry, hard to describe with words).
I jacked the back of the car up, had the car up to about 70+ MPH, and
listened to the differental (its also full of oil, no real leakage). I
orginally thought it was wheel bearings (maybe, not grease packed?), but the
sound seems to be coming from the front of the differential where the drive
shaft goes into it, that seems to make the most noise (hard to hear with the
wheels moving).
So, I bought a new bearing, squash collar, and seals, and haven’t yet
attempted to install it (I still need free time, and torque specs for the
collar) close to $80 from Jaguar! Just wondering if these can be a “common”
problem going on these things, this bearing seems to be a usual problem with
“other” cars. I really not prepared to spend $$$$$$ on a diff, especially
after just dishing out $$$ for square lights! Any ideas??

Thanks for any help,
Eric

From: radiowsh@mindport.net
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 20:44:00 GMT
Subject: Re: Positive ground electronic ignition

On Wed, 20 Nov 96 12:08:34 PST, Lauren Pratt wrote:

Some time in the past few days someone asked about electronic
ignition for positive ground systems. Last night I found an old
add from XK Unlimited for a “Electronic Ignition Kit for
Positive Ground Jaguars. From Crane Cams, (formerly Allison).
Kit eliminates points and condensor, includes new trigger unit,
amplifier, hardware and instructions.” Part number 17-1554
price $134.95.

Cheers Lauren

I’ve used several Allison Optoelectronic systems in the past
(including one in my '68 E-type) and found them to be very reliable
and easily installed. J.C. Whitney is selling the Crane Cams kits for
$99.95 under the part number 78DH348WF in their catalog #596J. I’ve
seen them on sale recently for about $85.00. Phone 312-431-6102.

I’m thinking about putting one in my Mark 9 (heresy!)

Vince

Vince Chrzanowski radiowsh@mindport.net

“There is not a moment to be lost” - Jack Aubrey

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #536

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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 21 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 537

85 XJ-S: Oil Pressure Sending Unit
Re: 1991 XJS tune-up kit $$$$
'67 XKE Convertible Purchase
Chainsaw
Re: Lumenition
Re: Tyres - XJ6 - SIII
NOT - XJ-S differential - finally sorted
Re: XJ6/40 Pre-owned or Used, that’s the question
Re: Re: XJ220 - Strange noise
XJ6 Tie Rod Ends
Hard to start XJ6 SIII
Re: Chainsaw
Re: R12 A/C System Conversion
Chips webpage
Re: Teddy bears (minor jag content)
Re: XJ6 Tie Rod Ends
Re: '86 XJ-S voltage regulator replacement
Re: 1991 XJS tune-up kit $$$$
Re: Positive ground electronic ignition
Positive vs Negative Ground
RE: XJ12 Reliability
Re: XJ40: Rear Diff Whine
Re: Steering symptoms

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 15:17:42 -0600 (CST)
Subject: 85 XJ-S: Oil Pressure Sending Unit

My oil pressure showed similar readings on 86 XJ-S. My problem was a
bad
oil sensor. The sensor was leaking oil and showing a low reading. The
oil
sensor is located on a tree behind the accelerator linkage. I got my
replacement oil sensor for less than $20 at John’s Cars and replaced it
in about
2 hours.

Tom Murray

This must have been a coincidence. because what you replaced had to be the
oil light sender, not the gauge sender. The guage sender cost a minimum of
$55 (if you get it on sale) while the light sender costs $4 to $8 most
anywhere.

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 16:29:35 -0005
Subject: Re: 1991 XJS tune-up kit $$$$

Julian Mullaney:

I noticed that the plugs, wires, dist. cap etc. included in the standard tune
up kits from SICP are more than twice as expensive for an XJS with the
Marelli ignition. About $220 vs $110.

Ouch! I personally don’t think the $110 is reasonable!

Is this just due to the distributor cap, or are the ignition wires different
also?

If anyone finds out, I’d like to add it to the XJ-S help book.

I’ve decided I will find some way to avoid $220 for a simple tune up kit.

Of course, the first question I always have is just why would one buy
a tune-up kit in the first place? Modern wires, rotor, and cap may
just last the life of the car, I certainly wouldn’t be replacing them
just because they’ve been in there for x miles. And the plugs are
available locally, making sure the proper NGK ones are used – I
dunno what make comes in the kit.

Aftermarket wires are easy, I have described that substitution in the
book.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: jonathon@protech.com (Jonathon Shevelew)
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 21:41:10 GMT
Subject: '67 XKE Convertible Purchase

Hi jag-lovers,

I have an opportunity to purchase a 1967 XKE Convertible. The car has
received an off-chassis restoration but has not been re-assembled. It
is supposedly ready for paint (already purchased in BRG from Jag),
engine has been completely chromed and rebuilt , new spokes, new
interior, new windshield and new top (none actually installed).

This is really my first project car. Though I did spend a number of
years as a mechanic (mostly Porsche) during the mid-70’s, it’s been
awhile since I really got greasey.

This seller is asking for $20,000 for the car.

I kinda have two questions here:

Does the price seem fair for this car? What is it reasonably
worth once restoration is completed?
From anyone who has taken on this type of project, what tips might
you have for me (aside from don’t start this project). Are there any
good books out there on XKE restoration?

=46inally, the seller also has a 1971 XKE Coupe (blue on blue) which he
wants US$15,000 for (or US$30,000 for both). Any opinions??

Thanks in advance for your feedback.
Jonathon Shevelew
'95 XJ-S 4.0L Convertible
'93 VDP
'96 Explorer (something for the kids to dirty up)
jonathon@protech.com

From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 96 17:00:48 EST
Subject: Chainsaw

From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
*** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FE21
*** INTERNET - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM *** IBMMAIL - AUIBMSPM ****
Subject: Chainsaw

If your car is an XJ6, then in the spare wheel well, there are
two 3 inch by about 2 inch plates on the front side of the well that
can be removed to inspect the rear brakes. May be a tight squeeze but
to change them through there…

REGARDS…Shane
* Forwarding note from SMTP2 --IINUS1 11/21/96 04:57 *

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Subject: Chainsaw
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Just one last attempt before I pull out my parking brake assembly - someone
mentioned there might be an access plate behind the back seat to get at the
brake pads (am I dreaming?) – Has anyone looked behind the back seat? If not,
where is my chain saw - (kidding) (maybe???) Don

From: “The Honjos” fm7m-hnjy@asahi-net.or.jp
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 07:31:17 +0900
Subject: Re: Lumenition

Mike:

I am a soon to be owner of the Mark 2 also considering using
Lumenition. According to their catalogues, positive ground is no
problem. You might also consider the high energy version, which
would also include a new coil that gives more spark. The biggest
problem I’m mulling about is how heat resistant the whole system is.
Their spec says 125c for the distributor unit and 105c for the coil,
which just might not be enough during the summer months around here
(35c+ in mid day in conjected traffic).

Regards
Makoto Honjo
Phone/Fax +81-3-3473-1848

From: “John Littler” auibmdak@ibmmail.com
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 17:33:45 EST
Subject: Re: Tyres - XJ6 - SIII

Tony
Thanks for your reply, what’s the main advantage of the taller (16") rim?
Does the lower profile give less tyre wall flex ?
Do you feel that 225 is the optimum width for this size vehicle ? Would
the 235 be too wide ?
John

Level 1, 29-57 Christie St.
St Leonards NSW 2065
Ph: +61-2-9937-8063 Fax: +61-2-9937-8100
Mobile +61-419-617-619 Internet: jlittler@vnet.ibm.com
*** Forwarding note from I4432180–IBMMAIL 20/11/96 07:29 ***
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 04:30:01 -0800
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson)
Subject: Re: Tyres - XJ6 - SIII
To: “John Littler” auibmdak@ibmmail.com
Cc: jag-lovers@sn.no

You wrote:

I would like to go to 235/15/60 all round - will I have enough
clearance
at the front ? What is everyone else running on ? I’ve got the
standard
(on the Sov.) “pepperpot” 15" x 7" alloys.

We use the new 16" rims on our cars and run 225/16/55 P6000 …

all the best
tony

VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web

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From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 22:40:19 GMT
Subject: NOT - XJ-S differential - finally sorted

Gang,

<FX: deep breath>

I take back what I said about the third diff this year sorting out the
problems. It doesn’t whine on overrun. Instead, the limited slip clutch
has permanently engaged now, resulting in ratcheting noises (and presumably
extreme tyre wear) when taking any curve, however slight.

3 diffs in 9 months. 3 fail. That’s both a statistically significant
sample and a 100% failure rate.

Anyone know a contact in Jaguar Cars Ltd, as high up as possible, who
can sort this kind of thing out ? I’ll get on the phone to them tomorrow
morning. And probably to a lawyer straight afterwards.

Regards

Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
'88 XJ-S V12, now seriously considering a Merc, Harrumph!

From: SirSmed@aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 19:13:07 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ6/40 Pre-owned or Used, that’s the question

Lawrence:

 My wife and I bought a 90 sovereign in June of 95.  We paid $15,500 us

from a classic car dealer. Since that time we have had no problems with our
Jag. It is the finest car that we have ever known. What a great machine for
“date nights”. Nothing will beat cruising in your Jag with your sweetie by
your side. Life just doesn’t get any better than this. Resellers, if their
reputable will cost the most, but they seek out the best Jags, and then have
them fully seviced and gone over from stem to stern before you ever see them.
You can buy Jags much cheaper, but you can’t buy em better. The XJ40 has a
lot more electrics that the older Series 3, but the mechanicals are great,
and the comfort, performance, etc. are unbeatable. I am sure that other have
their opinions, but for us, the above has worked better than we ever could
have hoped. Good luck in your search, let all of us know how you make out.

Best Regards
Rick Castonguay

From: Egil Kvaleberg egilk@sn.no
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 23:53:03 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: XJ220 - Strange noise

On 19 Nov 1996, Cuno Schneeberger wrote:

Oh, that was you, Charles, the guy who passed me in his E-Type leaving a long
trail of engine parts and fluids behind him

“Every part falling if this car is of
the finest Imperial manufacture”

Egil

Neckties strangle clear thinking.
– Lin Yutang

From: Dennis Beisswanger beiss@ix.netcom.com
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 19:15:47 -0800
Subject: XJ6 Tie Rod Ends

Hello,
I just received tie rod ends from Welsh’s, however they are
about 3/8" shorter than what’s on my car now. I called Welsh’s
and was assured that they were the right ones for my vehicle and
that the ones on there now are probably after market. The
gentleman I spoke to said I should just “adjust” for the length
difference. Also, the new ones don’t have grease nipples; old do.

The Welsh’s and XK’s Unlimited parts catalogs differ as to which
VIN gets early or late tie rod ends. The cutoff in Welsh’s is
314060; XK’s is 345390. My 1982 is #333120.

Should I exchange them for the earlier type? Thanks again.

From: graziott@ix.netcom.com
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 19:17:47 -0800
Subject: Hard to start XJ6 SIII

I thought I would write to tell the story of my 1985 XJ6. It is a great car but has had
one persistent problem ever since I bought it 6 months ago. It did not start easily when
it was cold (70 to 80 degrees). I had the car serviced by the local Jaguar dealer, who
replaced the EFI water temperature sensor. Still, it started right up if the car was at
operating temperature, but had to be turned over 5 or 6 times when it was cold. After
that I located a local Jag mechanic that is very good. He found that the cold start
injector was bad. I brought the car home and the next morning it again took 5 or 6 times
to start the car. I called the mechanic and he said �I don�t understand it, the other day
I just reached in, hit the key and it started right up�. That�s when I realized, in my
effort to start a hard to start car, I had been pushing and sometimes pumping the
accelerator pedal. Once I stopped playing with the pedal, it would start on the first
try. The lesson learned is, when trouble shooting a hard to start XJ6 SIII: first put
your meter on the cold start injector, if you don�t have voltage while cranking check
your EFI temperature sensors. If you do have voltage, pull out the cold start injector
and see if it is spraying, if not, replace it. Finally, and this important for owners
new to Jaguar, don�t move the accelerator while starting the car.

Michael Graziotti

From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 21:05:08 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Chainsaw

Don:

You didn’t mention the model you are working on. I think we have determined
that these access plates were only found on long wheel base E-Types…

Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2

At 09:44 PM 11/20/96 +0100, you wrote:

Th
From: dneufeld@sanac.usiu.edu
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 08:28:08 -0800
Subject: Chainsaw

Just one last attempt before I pull out my parking brake assembly - someone
mentioned there might be an access plate behind the back seat to get at the
brake pads (am I dreaming?) – Has anyone looked behind the back seat? If not,
where is my chain saw - (kidding) (maybe???) Don

From: DMSQ@aol.com
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 21:13:16 -0500
Subject: Re: R12 A/C System Conversion

First, apologize that my mail sender didn’t append my sign-off to last
message.

Second, thanks for the info on conversion. I haven’t heard about R406
product. Can you share more information? Would conversion be as simple, and
how soon would this be available?

Thanks.

–David Quintana
1971 XJ6
“DMSQ@aol.com”

From: ffilangeri@juno.com (Frank A Filangeri)
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 21:15:50 EST
Subject: Chips webpage

Hi Group,

I visited Chip Weems site tonite, all about the restoration of his 61 E
coupe. Great job Chip. This is a must see for anyone contemplating a
restoration.

Find it at:

http://www.cs.umass.edu/~weems/jaguar.html

Thanks for the URL Charles,

Frank Filangeri
62 E OTS Flat Floor
66 AH 3000

From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 21:28:54 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Teddy bears (minor jag content)

The other day at Bergen Jaguar, I spotted a Thing I Have to Have. No, (for
a change) it isn’t a car. It was sitting proudly in a glass display case
and not-for-sale written all over it. It was a plush toy jaguar (as in
jungle cat). It had a little microphone in it’s front paw, and it was
wearing a little tee shirt with a red tongue logo (ie Rolling Stones) on it.
Get it? Mick Jaguar.

Does anyone know where I can get one of these? Who was it who said he with
the most toys…

Mike Frank

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 21:30:12 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ6 Tie Rod Ends

Dennis: You cannot use the earlier tie rod ends. The later car uses a
smaller shaft on the tie rod. Well you can use them if you want to
replace the steering rack with one from an early car. All the new ball
joints and tie rod ends have no grease fittings.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: “Robert Johnson, D.Sc.” bjomejag@sover.net
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 22:12:34 -0400
Subject: Re: '86 XJ-S voltage regulator replacement

Kirbert wrote:

Bob Johnson:

There is a Motorola
replacement alternator that you may find from an after-market source.

Oh, yeah? PLEASE send info!

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

The Motorola number is A5000/12 for XJS and A5000/6 for XJ6. I believe
these are the same except for a 120 degree rotation of the two halves
of the case. JC Whitney had them on sale some years ago for less than
100.00USD. British Parts lists them as standard items.

Hope this helps,
Bob Johnson,
SS1, Mk1, XJS

From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 22:54:37 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: 1991 XJS tune-up kit $$$$

I noticed that the plugs, wires, dist. cap etc. included in the standard tune
up kits from SICP are more than twice as expensive for an XJS with the
Marelli ignition. About $220 vs $110.
Is this just due to the distributor cap, or are the ignition wires different
also?

the wire set is different… it will have two coil wires. I would imagine the
big expense is in the cap and rotor. At $110, the older style kit can not be
using the OEM cap and rotor. The last time I checked, there was only one
aftermarket cap available. I ordered in a lot of them… and every single
one was defective in one way or another. Missing center buttons, missing
vent tubes, pre-cracked, molded oval… Flimsy pieces. They’re about 1/3
the price of the Lucas pieces… and not worth it.

I’ve decided I will find some way to avoid $220 for a simple tune up kit.
Thanks,
Julian Mullaney

Replace the parts you need. The cap/rotor/wire set on these cars should be
good for over 100K miles.

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 22:45:48 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Positive ground electronic ignition

Positive Ground Jaguars. From Crane Cams, (formerly Allison).
Kit eliminates points and condensor, includes new trigger unit,
amplifier, hardware and instructions." Part number 17-1554
price $134.95.
XK Unlimited

Cheers Lauren

Just for the record, $135 is a bit high for this unit. Street prices (mail
order) should be under $100. Also, of the units I’ve seen that fit the
Lucas 25Dx distributor, the Allison/Crane is at the bottom of the list.
The optical pickup mounting is flimsy and inacurate, and the dwell pattern
at high rpm is less than ideal. The later is of little concern on a low
rev’ing 4.2.

I much prefer the Lumnition… when I can get it.

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

From: ajbeale@squirrel.com.au (A.J. Beale)
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 14:19:48 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Positive vs Negative Ground

My memory could well be slipping, but I seem to remember that the most valid
reason for the positive to earth wiring of earlier cars was that the
positive battery clamp corroded far more rapidly than the negative and the
earth lead was the shorter one. The manufacturers therefore wired for the
lower maintenance costs. Alan.

From: ajbeale@squirrel.com.au (A.J. Beale)
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 14:29:50 +1000 (EST)
Subject: RE: XJ12 Reliability

Many thanks to all who responded to my request for info. on the long term
reliability of XJ12s. Apart from fuel costs and probably, though I haven’t
checked, insurance and registration costs, the XJ12s seem to have a lot
going for them and not the least is that they retained the classic XJ6
Series 3 body shape until 1989. Alan.

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 07:56:52 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: XJ40: Rear Diff Whine

Hi all,
I seem to have a whining noise from the rear of my car (1989 XJ40-VDP w/
limited slip). It increases with speed, and becomes very constant and loud
when on the highway (over 50 mph). It doesn’t seem to change when turning
or anything, it’s basically a constant whine with a sort of slight wobbley
sound (sorry, hard to describe with words).
I jacked the back of the car up, had the car up to about 70+ MPH, and
listened to the differental (its also full of oil, no real leakage). I
orginally thought it was wheel bearings (maybe, not grease packed?), but the
sound seems to be coming from the front of the differential where the drive
shaft goes into it, that seems to make the most noise (hard to hear with the
wheels moving).
So, I bought a new bearing, squash collar, and seals, and haven’t yet
attempted to install it (I still need free time, and torque specs for the
collar) close to $80 from Jaguar! Just wondering if these can be a “common”
problem going on these things, this bearing seems to be a usual problem with
“other” cars. I really not prepared to spend $$$$$$ on a diff, especially
after just dishing out $$$ for square lights! Any ideas??

I had a similar bearing failure on my XJ-S V12. Oil looked ok, but the
bearing obviously heated a little. My repair manual mentions that the cause
for whine might be the all important pre-load. When attempting to correct
the preload, remember that overtorqueing means remove of the diff and
installation of a new collapsable washer …

Also be prepared that getting the bearing off, might not be a very easy
process. I had my diff overhauled in a shop (the guy really did a good
job on this and not very expensive), but he broke his big press when
trying to remove the bearing. The bearing concerned was the inner roller
bearing.

And be sure you have the correct oil in the diff

- Matthias

From: “Andrew Sandiforth” acer@serv.net
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 23:00:45 -0800
Subject: Re: Steering symptoms

Thanks for the response.
Help me out here, I’ve looked in my Haynes manual but I am unclear as to
what the rack bushings are. Can you explain?
Also, at the lower part of the steering column, there is a universal joint
that is attached to a mount. This is held in place by a long bolt with two
rubber spacers, one on either side of the U-joint shaft. When I rotate the
steering column, the hole assembly moves to one side (this corresponds
exactly with the free play noticed at the steering wheel). As it moves
tight to one side, then the wheels begin to turn. Are those rubber spacers
the rack bushings?

From: Robert Bradley Robert.Bradley@bh.eyi.com
To: Bert.WillingReturn requested Bert.Willing@lc.dmx.epfl.ch;
acerReturn requested acer@serv.net
Cc: jag-loversReturn requested jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Re: Steering symptoms
Date: Tuesday, November 19, 1996 10:11 PM

Andrew, you asked.

What are the symptoms of ball joint wear?
Jack up the wheel and grab the top and bottom, attempt to wobble wheel in
and
out grab front and back - do same. Wobble top/bottom only = Balljoints.
Wobble
both ways = wheel bearings and maybe balljoints also.
How do they compare to wear in the steering column linkage?
hard to notice without above test.
(1984 SJ6 has about 3/4 in play in the steering wheel and tracks slighty
left or right depending on which side of the play the wheel was last on
before I set the steering wheel straight again)
Maybe I need a good alignment?

I’ll tell you before Kirby does - I Don’t Think you are in immediate
danger of
serious failure but you certainly need new rack bushes, urgently.

and get the aftermarket polyurethane ones as I’m am told they are much
better
(last longer). Do it now, the improvement will be magic.

Bert, in regard to your response

This weekend I replaced the track rod ends (I think this should be the
ball
joints?)
I think I can straighten out some terminology
TRACK ROD ENDS are the joints on each end of the STEERING RACK, they are
attached to TIE RODS which connect to the STEEERING ARM on tthe wheel via
a TIE
ROD END. BALL JOINTS are the joints which allow the wheel assembly to be
turned
on a vertical axis by he steering.

There was some play before - just the feeling that I always had to do
small
movements
with the steering wheel even on straight ahead. Acting with a lever on
the
track rod >ends showed some distinct play.
and differentiate some symptoms. Your symptoms (Bert) are consistent
with
track or tie rod end wear (can get dangerous if not fixed). Andrew
specifically mentions the steering wheel staying on the side to which it
was
last turned which I believe is more in line with the bushes than the
ends.
I’ve had your problem Bert (changing the track rod ends stopped the
wandering)
and I’ve currently got your problem Andrew.

Robert Bradley
87 XJ-S, 82 XJs3, 82 Daimler, jx220 (2 off radio controlled models!) yes
jx not
XJ - Chinese assembly not Mexican.

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #537

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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 21 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 538

Re: XJ40: Rear Diff Whine
Re: 1991 XJS tune-up kit $$$$
Chainsaw
MK4 tyres
mk4 1.5l
Jaguar S-type
Re: lumenition fitting
Re: Omega Oil
Re: Installation of Oil Coolers on the Mark 2
RE: XJ12 Reliability
Oil FAQ
Re: Thermostat…
steel wheels for the snow slicks
XJ-40 Tail Lights for Sale
Need info on A/C Conversion to R406a
Archives?
Re: Archives?
Re: Jaguar S-type
Re: MII Cooler
Re: MK4 tyres
Re: Need info on A/C Conversion to R406a
SIII-body style (was XJ12 reliability)
Official Jaguar web-site launched
82 XJ6 S3 Gas leak from overflow
Re: Coil polarity

From: “Yubert K. Fang” yubert@concentric.net
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 23:11:06 -0800
Subject: Re: XJ40: Rear Diff Whine

Sounds similar to what my '93 XJ6 VdP had… It made a whining noise
from the rear and got more pronounced as the speed increased. Took my
Jag to an independent Jag dealer who found that the inner bearings on
one side of the limited slip differential was bad. The seal was
broken. It cost about $70 (US) to replace the bearings and flush the
differential.

—Yubert

cobac@ix.netcom.com wrote:

Hi all,
I seem to have a whining noise from the rear of my car (1989 XJ40-VDP w/
limited slip). It increases with speed, and becomes very constant and loud
when on the highway (over 50 mph). It doesn’t seem to change when turning
or anything, it’s basically a constant whine with a sort of slight wobbley
sound (sorry, hard to describe with words).
I jacked the back of the car up, had the car up to about 70+ MPH, and
listened to the differental (its also full of oil, no real leakage). I
orginally thought it was wheel bearings (maybe, not grease packed?), but the
sound seems to be coming from the front of the differential where the drive
shaft goes into it, that seems to make the most noise (hard to hear with the
wheels moving).
So, I bought a new bearing, squash collar, and seals, and haven’t yet
attempted to install it (I still need free time, and torque specs for the
collar) close to $80 from Jaguar! Just wondering if these can be a “common”
problem going on these things, this bearing seems to be a usual problem with
“other” cars. I really not prepared to spend $$$$$$ on a diff, especially
after just dishing out $$$ for square lights! Any ideas??

Thanks for any help,
Eric

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 02:24:35 -0005
Subject: Re: 1991 XJS tune-up kit $$$$

Randy Wilson:

At $110, the older style kit can not be
using the OEM cap and rotor. The last time I checked, there was only one
aftermarket cap available. I ordered in a lot of them… and every single
one was defective in one way or another. Missing center buttons, missing
vent tubes, pre-cracked, molded oval… Flimsy pieces. They’re about 1/3
the price of the Lucas pieces… and not worth it.

I will agree here, sort of. Years back I replaced my cap, and I seem
to recall paying something around $60. The cap I got looked pretty
much like the original except that the vent tubes were different. I
had considerable trouble with those vent tubes over the next year or
two, with each time I pulled the hose off the tube came with it.
Eventually I managed to get them to stay put by roughing up the
surrounding surfaces a little and applying JB Weld; this was the
second attempt, since the first time I applied the JB Weld I didn’t
rough the surfaces first and it just popped off.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 09:59:38 -0800
Subject: Chainsaw

Don;

I’m not aware of any inspection hatches behind the rear seat. It wouldn’t be of
any use anyway, unless you wanted to inspect the rear driveshaft.

However, some time in the Series II XJ production run (I think), two access
plates covering ditto holes were installed in the spare wheel well, making for
easier inspection of and access to the rear brakes.

Good luck.

Bard

______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no

From: lustre@iafrica.com
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 96 10:28:21 GMT
Subject: MK4 tyres

Does anyone know of a set (5) Dunlop 5.50 x 18 tyres preferably new and
correctly stored that may be for sale?

thanks
john (lustre@iafrica.com)

From: lustre@iafrica.com
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 96 11:18:53 GMT
Subject: mk4 1.5l

Dave, re throttle routing there is a mk4 3.5 sitting at wally’s place but i
dont know if the throttle is the same arrangement. perhaps a visit would be
worthwhile.
if i find aladins cave i’ll call you … later, meanwhile i’ll dig the speedo
cable out as promised.

From: “Stein Hovind” steinh@kirkeparken.vgs.no
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 12:23:27 CET
Subject: Jaguar S-type

After wanting one for 25 years, I finally got my S-type. My father
bougt one in -66 and sold ti in 73, and I’ve been wanting one since,
having learned to drive in that car.

It’ a 3.8 auto, wire wheels, green tintet windows paintet in OEW.

Itwas totally restored -82-86, now totally rust-free and in exellent
mechanical order. Oil-pressure well over 40 at 3000 rpm, temperature
never exeeding 90, even when driving hard, cruising temperature
around 80.

However, I would like a couple of advices from someone “out there”.

The bleeding screw on both front brake calipers are stuck, and I
suspect that goes for the outer pistons as well. Can anyone
recommend a good place to overhaul a pair og Dunlop calipers, or
getting exhange calipers?

Anyone familiar with the calipers offerd by Coopercraft for old
Jaguars, taking new pads with grater friction area?

My second problem is idling when cold.

After the aux carb turns off at around 35 degrees, and before
reaching 75 degrees, the engine har a tendency to stall when idling.
Giving sudden throttle give the same result. After reaching normal
woeking temperature, however, it runs beautifully. Both the carbs and
the ignition are freshly tuned by specialist, but they worked on a
warm engine, never noticing my (minor) problem with a cold engine.

From: Don Tracey dont@echuca.net.au
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 23:11:09 -0700
Subject: Re: lumenition fitting

From: “The Honjos” fm7m-hnjy@asahi-net.or.jp
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 07:31:17 +0900
Subject: Re: Lumenition

Mike:

You might also consider the high energy version, which
would also include a new coil that gives more spark. The biggest
problem I’m mulling about is how heat resistant the whole system is.
Their spec says 125c for the distributor unit and 105c for the coil,
which just might not be enough during the summer months around here
(35c+ in mid day in conjected traffic).

Regards
Makoto Honjo
Phone/Fax +81-3-3473-1848

Makoto, I fitted a lumenition ignition setup on a Mk2 several years ago
and mounted the control box between the radiator and grille which will
be as cool a spot as you will find close to the motor. I see no reason
why the coil could not be mounted in the same place.
An auto electrician told me that the big advantage with electronic is
that it it is possible to run higher amperage through the unit (i.e
using a more powerful coil)than is possible with points.This give more
voltage at the plugs.
Regards
Don Tracey
50 Mk5
59 Mk2
58 XK150
than is possible with points.

From: “The Honjos” fm7m-hnjy@asahi-net.or.jp
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 21:35:10 +0900
Subject: Re: Omega Oil

Thanks. Well, there’s some discussion amongst the afcionados and
experts of classic Jags about the relative merits of “classic oil”, synthetic
oil, and the like. And several guys were swearing by Omega, Classic oil,
single grade oil, and synthetic oil in that order.

Regards
Makoto Honjo
Phone/Fax +81-3-3473-1848

From: “The Honjos” fm7m-hnjy@asahi-net.or.jp
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 21:35:10 +0900
Subject: Re: Installation of Oil Coolers on the Mark 2

Don’t you mean RHD cars? Or am I confused? Here in the U.S. we
drive on the “right” (i.e., correct) side of the road, and I thought
that meant we have LHD cars.

Apologies to the esteemed don of this list. The problems of the
non-English speaker. RHD should have been correct. In Japanese we
say “left hand traffic” and that got me.

Regards

Makoto Honjo
Phone/Fax +81-3-3473-1848

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 07:46:01 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: XJ12 Reliability

Alan: The XJ- Series III body style was not discontinued until Aug 1994.
In case you are looking for one, now you have 5 more years worth to look for.
Chad Bolles Jaguar Sout 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: Doug Heinen povtybay@wolfenet.com
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 05:04:28 +0930
Subject: Oil FAQ

With all the recent discussions on oils, I was surprised that no one
else posted this URL to a Usenet FAQ on the subject. If that was because
this is a well know enough FAQ that everyone else was aware of it, then
I apologize for the waste of your time and bandwidth.

Mr. Ed Hackett supplies info on six of the most important properties of
a motor oil readily available to the public: viscosity, viscosity index
(VI), flash point, pour point, % sulfated ash, and % zinc.

http://skylands.ibmwr.org/tomk/sbr/tom/tech/oil_facts.html

Best Regards,

doug heinen

From: theo bremner tbremner@lynx.dac.neu.edu
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 03:19:28 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Thermostat…

Hello,

Does anyone know which is better for 85 SOV SIII for a

thermostat? The manual says either 160 or 180 and reccommends the 160
for later models but the parts store doesn’t list a 160 for mine it only
lists the 160 for earlier model. Anyone help me out here.

Thanks
Theo
tbremner@lynx.neu.edu

From: Licensed jshuck25@mailhost.cinet.co.cn
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 14:36:11 ±800
Subject: steel wheels for the snow slicks

every wheel has a specific numerical designation whuch combines. lug =
size, offset, etc. The tire shops usually have a list of applications… =
I also notice that the Tire Rack Stores sell snows mounted on steel =
wheels delivered UPS. Not good news ofor your local guy, but worth a =
call. john shuck…beijing

From: PLacey@swri.edu
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 96 8:04:00 CST
Subject: XJ-40 Tail Lights for Sale

Anybody out there need tail-lights from an 1988 XJ-40. The passenger side
light (left hand drive car) has a small 1" square chip at the inside corner,
the other is perfect. Includes lenses bulbs etc and are the type without
chrome. $75 buys the pair, worth approx $400 new. They dont seem to have
faded or changed colors compared to the new ones. The workshop that broke
the light bought me the new ones, which was nice of them as the chip is small
enough that no white light shines through!

Paul Lacey, Texas (210) 522-3367

From: “KEATING, SCOTT” KEATING@ssb-facstaff.ssb.rochester.edu
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 96 09:12:00 EST
Subject: Need info on A/C Conversion to R406a

Kirby Palm recently wrote about some of the pros and cons of an A/C
conversion from R12 to R134a. He concludes by saying that the better switch
is from R12 to R406a. Does anybody know anything about R406A? Is it
better for the environment? If so, how? Can I use it in my '85 XJ6? Do I
need to change any parts? Where do I get R406A? Is it regulated in the US
like R12 is now, or can I install it myself? Does it increase or decrease
cooling performance of the system? Any other information would be greatly
appreciated. My A/C system needs a re-charge, and if R406a is available,
works as well as R12 and is better for the environment, I would rather use it.

Thanks in advance for the feedback.

Scott Keating
Rochester, NY

From: is.grant@pti-us.com (Ian Grant)
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 09:18:56 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Archives?

I’m a new subscriber to jag-lovers.

In the WWW writeup “Michael Neal’s Technical Advice” it says that any
questions sent to Michael will be posted and replied to on the jag-lovers
mailing list, so it will be stored in the archives. Anyone know how I access
the archives? Thanks.

From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 15:37:48 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: Archives?

On Thu, 21 Nov 1996, Ian Grant wrote:

In the WWW writeup “Michael Neal’s Technical Advice” it says that any
questions sent to Michael will be posted and replied to on the jag-lovers
mailing list, so it will be stored in the archives. Anyone know how I access
the archives? Thanks.

The archives are at the web-site http://home.sn.no/home/nick/archive.html

Infrequently updated and overwhelmingly huge, be warned.

Nick

From: gljohn3@searle.monsanto.com
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 96 08:49:31 CST
Subject: Re: Jaguar S-type

Steve: there are restoration shops that bore out your old, rusty, seized, pitted
Dunlop brake cylinders and fit a new sleeve machined to spec. White Post
Restorations in Virginia did mine in 1979; they use a brass sleeve to eliminate
rust. You can call them at (540) 837-1140 for info.
Regards,
Gordon

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Jaguar S-type
Author: “Stein Hovind” steinh@kirkeparken.vgs.no at Internet
Date: 11/21/96 07:34 AM

The bleeding screw on both front brake calipers are stuck, and I
suspect that goes for the outer pistons as well. Can anyone
recommend a good place to overhaul a pair og Dunlop calipers, or
getting exhange calipers?

From: “The Honjos” fm7m-hnjy@asahi-net.or.jp
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 00:13:35 +0900
Subject: Re: MII Cooler

Steve

 horizontal mount work?

The Beacham restorations from NZ came with this configuration. In
this configuration, I think you should punch an air duct up to the
oil cooler for better effects. Tom Veale who’s doing a Mark 2 upgrade
using parts from Terry’s is contemplating this route. His Time Warp
Mk II home page http://pages.prodigy.com/aimhigh/mkii.htm is
something.

Regards

Makoto Honjo
Phone/Fax +81-3-3473-1848

From: hdrsons@iamerica.net (Hal Rogers)
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 1996 20:29:27 -0700
Subject: Re: MK4 tyres

At 10:28 AM 11/21/96 GMT, lustre@iafrica.com wrote:

Does anyone know of a set (5) Dunlop 5.50 x 18 tyres preferably new and
correctly stored that may be for sale?

thanks
john (lustre@iafrica.com)

I do have 4x Dunlop 5.50 X 18 tyres, not new but good used. They came off a
30s Bentley that was being refurbished with new tyres…because the owner
liked to drive the car across country a couple of times a year. The used
tires have plenty of tread left and I see no obvious signs of dry rotting,
that sort of thing. $100 plus shipping to you.

Regards,
Hal

Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
Import Auto Specialists
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax

Serving Auto Enthusiasts since 1959

From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 09:19:15 MDT
Subject: Re: Need info on A/C Conversion to R406a

Scott wrote:

Kirby Palm recently wrote about some of the pros and cons of an A/C
conversion from R12 to R134a. He concludes by saying that the better switch
is from R12 to R406a. Does anybody know anything about R406A? Is it
better for the environment? If so, how? Can I use it in my '85 XJ6? Do I
need to change any parts? Where do I get R406A?

I was under the impression that R406a was still considered illegal in
the US since it is approved for HVAC systems but not for auto use.
Do you know something more than this Kirby ? I’ve seen it in the
auto parts stores and when I ask about it they say "oh no, that’s for
HVAC systems - you can’t legally use it in your car ". Right.
I’ve used FR12 which is marketed by Penzoil and all works well so far
in the turd truck. The only mods were to the amount of FR12 to put in
(10% less), some new oil in the compressor, a new dryer (good idea at
any rate) and new fittings on the compressor. I am planning on recharging my XJ12C with it this
winter and I expect the same results. It seems to actually cool
slightly better than R12 but this is only subjective observation.

Is it regulated in the US
like R12 is now, or can I install it myself?

You need a IMAC license to buy ANY refrigerant in the US. There
seems to be some confusion in what the salesmen will tell you but
when you go to buy it, you have to give your number.

Kind Regards,

Jim Cantrell

From: Are Lorentsen are@vinn.no
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 96 17:24:00 PST
Subject: SIII-body style (was XJ12 reliability)

Alan: The XJ- Series III body style was not discontinued until Aug

In case you are looking for one, now you have 5 more years worth to look
for.
Chad Bolles Jaguar Sout 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 >798
3044

I’m not trying to confuse anyone, but I believe the correct answer here
is november 1992.

Are Lorentsen
82XJ6

From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 17:41:34 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Official Jaguar web-site launched

For the gentlemens information, the official Jaguar Cars Ltd
web-site is now online at www.jaguarcars.com

Nick

From: Luis Magdaleno lm@bheaven.com
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 08:49:29 -0800
Subject: 82 XJ6 S3 Gas leak from overflow

A few days ago I left a trail of gas down Pacific Coast Highway after
filling up both tanks. The flow was such that I thought I had ruptured
a tank. On close inspection it turned out that the driver-side tank was
overflowing and gas seeping out the overflow drain. In the mean time the
right-side tank fuel level was lowering.

Now, I don’t fill up the tanks. Nevertheless, the fuel levels seemed
to indicate that the gas is syphoning from one tank to the other in a
juggling dance. I want to keep my tanks topped off to prevent water
accumulation in them otherwise I wouldn’t be so concerned.

Any ghost busters out there who know how to get rid of these gremlins
please respond.

Regards to all,

Luis

Luis Magdaleno, Attorney at Law
Gatekeeper to BUYERS’ HEAVEN http://www.bheaven.com/bheaven/
If you appreciate BARGAINS or are a merchant looking for SALES.
FREE WANT ADS for consumers, 100s of buyers for merchants.

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 11:07:12 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Coil polarity

Hi all,
    Could someone tell me how to hook up the coil on a positive ground 
car.  The coil has a "+" and "-" on the secondary terminals and the 
wiring diagram shows CW and SB.  Any help would be appreciated.

The “+” and “-” are on the primary winding. The secondary winding is the
center wire and the case.

For a positive ground I would assume that the “+” terminal goes to the
points and the “-” terminal goes to the battery. Though, except for the
polarity of the condenser, (which could be reversed), it realy shouldn’t
make any difference if the case of the coil is not connected to either the
“+” or “-” terminal. I dont know if there are different coils for positive
and negative ground systems. If the coils are interchangeable then there
must NOT be any connection between the primary and secondary and in that
case you could hook it up either way and it would work. From an electronics
standpoint it shouldnt make any difference, but there may be some reason
dictated by the construction of the coil.

The idea is that the battery is connected to one end of the primary winding
and the other end is connected to the points. When the points open as the
lobe on the cam moves toward its peak just before top dead center the field
in the primary collapses. The collapsing magnetic field induces current
into the secondary which is connected between the block and the center
electrode of the spark plug. This causes the spark.

I dint know from nothing about “CW” and “SB”.

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #538

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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 22 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 539

The deffinative answer to spark polarity
Refrigerant
Oil
Retrofitting with airbags?
Best XJ 40 Service Manual
Re: R12 A/C System Conversion
re[2]: Paraffin Oils (not Jag but relevant)
Re: Need info on A/C Conversion to R406a
Re: Coil polarity
Goodbye …
SuperSleuths
Re: Coil polarity
Purchasing an XJS
Re: Thermostat…
Re: 82 XJ6 S3 Gas leak from overflow
Re: Coil polarity
Re: Retrofitting with airbags?
Re: SuperSleuths
Front End Shake - Rotors
Re: SuperSleuths
r-406
XJ-S bodies
XJ-S sunshades
Re: SuperSleuths

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 11:17:05 -0600 (CST)
Subject: The deffinative answer to spark polarity

It has just come to me after answering several questions on coil polarity
that this is an easy way to reverse the spark polarity if a negative spark
gives any advantage.

The first thing to find out is if there is a “commom” terminal between the
primary and secondary of the transformer. This is easy to find out with an
ohm meter. Just test for condinuity between any terminal on the primary
(the two screw terminals) and either the case or the center terminal. If
there is NO continuity (i.e. no connection between the windings internaly)
then you should be able to reverse the connections to the primary winding.
This would reverse the polarity of the spark.

But if there is an advantage to either polarity of the spark then the
manufactuer should have already thought of this and will have made the
connections inside the case to give the polarity of spark that is best.

Thus, there probably is no reason to do the test. Since spark coils may
already be wound so that you get a negative spark. If they are not then I
assume there is no advantage.

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: “KENNETH M GILSON” kgilson@ccmail.unl.edu
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 96 11:25:09 CST
Subject: Refrigerant

For a R406A reference try http://www.worldserver.com/R406A/ I just
accessed this so it is a valid URL. Read carefully the first part about
the “hoses” on your A/C they may need changed, also how you recharge the
A/C.
The data I have on FR-12 shows it to contain by weight R-134a-59%,
R124-39% and n-butane 2%.
Will I change refrigerants, not as long as I can get R-12. Oh yes, I am
a refrigeration technician who will hang it up tomorrow.

Kenny Gilson '64 Ots

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 12:02:03 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Oil

Two advantages of synthetic oil that the others cannot match. I DO NOT use
Mobile 1 however because it causes leaks in Jaguars. and I have heard that
Castrol synthetic is not any better than standard oil. I use the Quaker
State synthetic and several others.

It stops leaks in Jaguars! (exception, Mobile 1) This is the main reason
I use it in all my Jaguars.
It can go three times as long without changing it thus offsetting the
fact that it costs three times as much. And allowing me two more free week
ends every three months.
```
 JIM I.
```

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: Sigurd Meldal meldal@anna.stanford.edu
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 10:03:12 -0800
Subject: Retrofitting with airbags?

Hi,

I have a problem, hoping for a solution: Is there any way one can
retrofit an '87 XJS Cabriolet with single or dual airbags?

It may be considered vandalism, but it is the only way we can avoid
the car being sold by the matriarch of the family.

Cheers,

Sigurd

From: Marshall Hollister-Jones marshall@mentor.co.nz
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 07:46:07 +1300
Subject: Best XJ 40 Service Manual

I am wanting to purchase and XJ40 service manual. It appears there are a
variety of these available of different quality.

I e-mailed Bookspeed with the following answer:

We can supply as follows:

Jaguar XJ6 (XJ40) Manual 1986-1994. Price L19.95

L3.25 post/packing in UK or
L5.95 overseas surface mail

We accept Visa, Master/Eurocard.

Could you please confirm that this is a genuine Jaguar manual and not a
Haines manual or similar.

It is based on the Jaguar New Zealand manual, but is not as
comprehensive as the complete Jaguar manual

Does anybody have any experience with this or recommendations as to which
one I should get and where to get it?

From: DMSQ@aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 15:14:03 -0500
Subject: Re: R12 A/C System Conversion

I read the excellent information located at:

http://www.worldserver.com/r406a/

regarding the r406a refrigerant, usable on r12 systems as a drop-in
replacement, and recommend it for all.

It doesn’t look like it will be a DIY’er type of job, however. Are there, or
will there be any DIY replacements to top-off a system?

–David Q.
1971 XJ

From: RDIAZ@maila.harris.com (RDIAZ)
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 15:01:18 -0500
Subject: re[2]: Paraffin Oils (not Jag but relevant)

 I agree 100% with Kyle's comments.  I used to use Pennzoil every 3k 
 miles in my 351 Ford until the main bearings "melted" at only 70k 
 miles.  The problem was that my oil pump intake was fully clogged 
 with wax.  My daily commute to work is just 5 miles and therefore 
 the engine didn't have enough time to warm up and melt the wax 
 buildup caused by paraffine.  If you have similar driving 
 conditions, DO NOT use paraffine-based oils in you car!
 
 Ricardo Diaz
 Melbourne, Florida, USA
 1990 XJ6 Sovereign (only Castrol)
 rdiaz@harris.com
 <end+forwarded_message>
 ====================================================
 Kyle wrote:
 
 From: Kyle Chatman <kchatman@mail.coin.missouri.edu>
 Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 12:39:42 -0600
 Subject: re: Paraffin Oils (not Jag but relevant)
 
 I used Pennzoil for several years until I once removed the valve 
 covers on a 460 cu inch ford engine and found hard ridges. They 
 reminded me of some feature of ice sculpted by heat and wind. It 
 must have been the wax build-up resulting from my almost exclusive 
 use of the vehicle for short trips (2-3 miles). In my opinion, a 
 paraffin oil is probably fine if your engine almost always reaches 
 full operating temperature (20 minutes?). Mine doesn't so I 
 switched oils.

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 15:43:01 -0005
Subject: Re: Need info on A/C Conversion to R406a

Jim Cantrell:

I was under the impression that R406a was still considered illegal in
the US since it is approved for HVAC systems but not for auto use.
Do you know something more than this Kirby ?

All I know about approvals is in the message that was posted
previously to jag-lovers:

Date sent: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 10:33:00 -0400 (EDT)
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Subject: R406A has been approved!!!

Group:

The following post from the mopar network may be of interest to those of
us in the USA with outdated air conditioning systems:

Return-Path: owner-mopar@universal.fiber.net
X-Fibernet-Tip: Don’t quote more than you contribute!
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 1996 00:52:39 -0600 (MDT)
From: Whistling in the Dart dastern@nilenet.com
To: mopar@universal.fiber.net
Subject: R406A has been approved!!!
Sender: owner-mopar@universal.fiber.net

IMPORTANT!

Carol Browner, USEPA, has signed her OK on R406A and GHG-X4.

THIS MEANS:

R406A and GHG-X4 will be LEGAL, repeat, 100 per cent LEGAL to use in your
automobile air conditioner thirty days from today (Wednesday). Repeat,
LEGAL. LEGAL. LEGAL. (sorry, can’t help myself)

The official conversion will require unique fittings be installed over
your R12 fittings, and yes, you hafta have a license to buy it, but this
means there IS NO LONGER AN EXCUSE for butchering-up your air conditioner
and settling for substandard performance with an R134a retrofit.

Daniel Stern “a 2.2T3, a 2.5, and 2 225s. Say it FAST!”
http://ursula.uoregon.edu/~dastern <—All Things Daniel and Pizza
'65 Canadian Valiant '91 Spirit R/T and the SL6 Resource Centre
Illegitimis Non Carborundum
Nihil tamquam temporis momentum ultimatum incitat.
Cogito ergo vroom

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: “Lauren E. Pratt” pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 96 14:14:39 PST
Subject: Re: Coil polarity

Just to clarify a point I left hanging on my post about two
hours ago: I just now checked my coil from a 65 fhc, negative
ground, the coil primary terminal markings are SW and CB, not
CW and SB as was posted in a question to the list. The SW is
the SWitch terminal and the CB goes to the dist,(Contact Breaker).

Also the coil secondary is returned to the SWitch terminal. not
the coil case. So if you change from positive ground to negative
ground the polarity of the spark will be reversed. I must confess
I do not know what effect this will have. If the coil primary
leads are reversed the secondary return is now connected to the
dist. terminal, which I do not believe you want to do. The only
solution is to also install a properly polarized coil.

Cheers Lauren 65 fhc

Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 11/21/96
Time: 2:14:39 PM

This message was sent by Chameleon

From: JagLinks@aol.com
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 16:10:39 -0500
Subject: Goodbye …

Hi folks:

It’s been very interesting and a lot of fun ! to be with you for just a few
weeks.
I do feel really sorry, but I just can’t handle the traffic of jag-lovers
anymore, mainly due to my “real job” trying to make enough money for the
restoration of my 2+2 … But I’ll stay just around the corner at the
xke-lovers’ list.

Drive safely - no matter if Jag or bike !!

CU in cyberJAGspace

Stephan Perthes
<E-Type 2+2 SI 1966>
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Perthes/jaglinks.htm
<“Hope I die before I get old” (C) 1967 Pete Townshend / The Who.>

From: dneufeld@sanac.usiu.edu
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 12:17:14 -0800
Subject: SuperSleuths

This one is for any of you jag owners in Southern California who might be
listening - I am attempting to track down the service history for my 87 XJ6
and just discovered that the probable dealer that serviced the car has gone
out of business - It’s called Newport Motors here in So. Cal. and maybe
someone might, by chance, know if there is any chance that the service
histories were preserved??? ( I do believe in Santa Claus and the tooth
fairy) Any takers??? Thanks Don

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 15:19:20 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Coil polarity

Also the coil secondary is returned to the SWitch terminal. not
the coil case. So if you change from positive ground to negative
ground the polarity of the spark will be reversed. I must confess
I do not know what effect this will have. If the coil primary
leads are reversed the secondary return is now connected to the
dist. terminal, which I do not believe you want to do.

This is good to know. That means that to reverse the spark polarity it
would require that you modify the coil internaly.

However I maintain as before that if it was advantagous to have a particular
polarity of spark the coil manufactuers have already thought of it and have
it wired correctly internaly.

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: Hank Miller HMILLER@WPO.IUPUI.EDU
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 16:48:04 -0500
Subject: Purchasing an XJS

I am a “Jaguar rookie” and have just joined the mailing list. I’m very
interested in purchasing an older XJS V12 coupe (no older than '84 or
so) in the $6,000-$7,500 (US) range. In my home town of Indianapolis,
Indiana, the ones I’ve located so far in that price range are either in
terrible shape or have had major modifications such as a V-8
conversion.

I’d appreciate any advice on: 1) whether it’s realistic to find an XJS in
good shape for that price; 2) any tips on what to look for in evaluating a
vehicle; 3) any leads on XJS’s for sale in the Indianapolis area.

Thank you for any assistance you can provide.

Hank Miller
hmiller@iupui.edu

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 16:56:34 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Thermostat…

Theo: You can use the 160 from the early car if you chose,but I think
that a 180 or at least a 170 would be better. Reason being 160 is really
not hot enough for the oil to boil(I know that this is not a good
term,but it is the best I could think of) out the water that collects in it.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 17:06:30 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: 82 XJ6 S3 Gas leak from overflow

Luis: Your change over valve is most likley not working, allowing return
fuel to return to the wrong tank.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: “Lauren E. Pratt” pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 96 16:36:00 PST
Subject: Re: Coil polarity

I agree with what Jim says.

snip
This is good to know. That means that to reverse the spark polarity it
would require that you modify the coil internaly.
snip

Right, except I don’t want to try to rewire the inside of a coil,
Just get a new one.

snip
However I maintain as before that if it was advantagous to have a
particular
polarity of spark the coil manufactuers have already thought of it and
have
it wired correctly internaly.
snip

I agree 100%. And I believe this is why they changed the coil
when they changed from positive to negative ground.

Cheers Lauren

Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 11/21/96
Time: 4:36:00 PM

This message was sent by Chameleon

From: Tom Walker Tjwal@concentric.net
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 17:58:52 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Retrofitting with airbags?

At 10:03 AM 11/21/96 -0800, Sigurd wrote:

Hi,

I have a problem, hoping for a solution: Is there any way one can
retrofit an '87 XJS Cabriolet with single or dual airbags?

It may be considered vandalism, but it is the only way we can avoid
the car being sold by the matriarch of the family.

Cheers,

Sigurd

A terrible thing, a dangerous car, hey… any idea how much she
wants for the car??
Tom Walker
82 XJS HE

From: “Steven and Ola Peters” ola@community.net
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 15:06:34 -0800
Subject: Re: SuperSleuths

Hi Don & fellow jag-lovers,

The original owner of my XJ6 VP SIII also had all her servicing done at
Newport Motors in So. Cal. and I have all the records of service history
for my car. (Sure helps to buy from a responsible relative!) My Aunt
Marta kept every paper, (in a file) that was ever associated with the car,
and passed it all to me when I bought the car from her.

As far as knowing if all the service histories were preserved, that is the
$64,000 question, now isn’t it. I wish you luck on this one, but if you
need info from me, I am here.

Ola Peters

From: dneufeld@sanac.usiu.edu
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: SuperSleuths
Date: Thursday, November 21, 1996 12:17 PM

This one is for any of you jag owners in Southern California who might be

listening - I am attempting to track down the service history for my 87
XJ6
and just discovered that the probable dealer that serviced the car has
gone
out of business - It’s called Newport Motors here in So. Cal. and maybe
someone might, by chance, know if there is any chance that the service
histories were preserved??? ( I do believe in Santa Claus and the tooth
fairy) Any takers??? Thanks Don

From: “Martin Fooks” Martin.Fooks@centurasoft.com
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 96 10:44:10 PST
Subject: Front End Shake - Rotors

 The front disks were warped on my XJS and cost me a whole 18 pounds 
 sterling each to replace with new items.  Personally I think that for 
 England anyway this is probably the reason for suggesting not to skim 
 them!
 
 If they were an exchange part then maybe the thinking would be 
 different, but now I have very clean shiny disks (for the moment) at 
 very little expense and with the car off the road for only a short 
 amount of time.
 
 On a related note I had to buy a speedo cable for my girlfriends'  Renault Cleo 1.2 (small little toy car, looks nothing like a Jag) at  the equivalent of 70 pounds sterling at the weekend which came as a  bit of a shock having paid a massive 15 pounds sterling for the XJS  version a year before.  I keep telling her to get a car with cheap  replacement parts like the XJ but she seems to think that fuel economy  is important! :-) Martin Fooks From: Chad Bolles <aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu> Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 19:16:34 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: SuperSleuths Don:  If this car was serviced at a Jag dealer,just go to any dealers  service dept give them the serial no of your car they can pull it up on  the computer and give you the available history. Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044 From: Michael Frank <mfrank@westnet.com> Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 19:20:59 -0500 (EST) Subject: r-406 Information on R406 is at: http://worldserver.com/ghg/index.html#GHG-X4 I believe it became legal for automotive use this summer. You do need a license to install any refrigerant in the US. The license is a $25 inconvenience. Mike Frank 1969 E-Type 2+2 From: Chad Bolles <aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu> Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 19:35:50 -0500 (EST) Subject: XJ-S bodies Sorry for taking sooooo long getting back to this. From the UK the info  is this A: they want the life history of the car, then B: they want the  old body sent back to the UK.   An as yet they have to tell me if any  bodies were available at all. Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044 From: Chad Bolles <aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu> Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 19:38:58 -0500 (EST) Subject: XJ-S sunshades Someone asked me about a drivers side sunshade in black, I have them,just  let me know. TOOOOO many things going on,with the new race car and business and my Mom, I even forgot to buy toilet paper. Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbi SC 29212USA 803 798 3044 From: cobac@ix.netcom.com Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 17:07:07 -0800 Subject: Re: SuperSleuths At 07:16 PM 11/21/96 -0500, you wrote:

Don: If this car was serviced at a Jag dealer,just go to any dealers
service dept give them the serial no of your car they can pull it up on
the computer and give you the available history.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

Does this mean that people that don’t have complete service records (like
myself) can obtain a complete history for their car? I can tell that my car
was always serviced at the dealer (Sportique in Huntington, NY), by SOME
papers in the car (and technician business cards that seem to appear in
everything) and overall quality of the repairs. However, all service
manuals and bills that belonged in the car weren’t available when I bought
the car from my local Jag dealer. If I obtain a printout of the repairs
from the dealer, will it now include “all books, and records” such as people
mention when selling the car?
Thanks for mentioning this service also.

Regards,
Eric
1989 XJ40-VDP

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #539

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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 22 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 540

Re: Chainsaw
gasoline fumes in cabin of XJS
Re: Retrofitting with airbags?
85 XJ-S : rear whine on de-acceleration
Re: NOT - XJ-S differential - finally sorted
Re: XJ40: Rear Diff Whine
Re: Thermostat…
Re: 1991 XJS tune-up kit $$$$
Re: 82 XJ6 S3 Gas leak from overflow
Re: Coil polarity
Re: XJ-S bodies
Re: XJ6 R&P Spacers etc
Parcel Post
RE: Best XJ 40 Service Manual
Re: The deffinative answer to spark polarity
Re: Coil polarity
Re: Coil polarity
XJ-S: Motorola Alternators
Re: SuperSleuths
Jag digest
Re: E -type AC unit for sale
A/C license
Re: gasoline fumes in cabin of XJS

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 22 Nov 96 10:09:05
Subject: Re: Chainsaw

I’m just curious about what the problem is with access to the rear brakes on an
E-type; AFAIK the XJ has the same rear sub-frame, and I have no problem with
bleeding the brakes or replacing the handbrake or main linings, working from
underneath with the car on ramps.

-Jan

From: Fondrie/Gleboff jgleboff@students.wisc.edu
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 20:05:16 -0600
Subject: gasoline fumes in cabin of XJS

If this has been covered recently I apologise. Are there any particular
places I should look as possible sources of a strong gasoline smell in
the cabin of our 83 XJS? (Seems to be coming from the rear of the car)
The smell has been there for years, but it has gotten stronger recently.
This isn’t the kind of thing our (good) mechanic seems to be interested
in tracking down. Don’t want to explode or anything. Any ideas will be
appreciated.

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 22 Nov 96 11:06:23
Subject: Re: Retrofitting with airbags?

meldal @ anna.stanford.edu (Sigurd Meldal)

22/11/96 02:03
To: jag-lovers @ sn.no @ Internet
cc:
Subject: Retrofitting with airbags?

Hi,

I have a problem, hoping for a solution: Is there any way one can
retrofit an '87 XJS Cabriolet with single or dual airbags?

It may be considered vandalism, but it is the only way we can avoid
the car being sold by the matriarch of the family.

Cheers,

Sigurd

I’ve got two solutions, Sigurd:

Replace your matriarch.
Convince her that the absence of airbags inspires the driver to be extra
careful. Remember the Road & Track proposal back in the sixties to put a
12-gauge shotgun cartridge in the telescoping steering column, pointing up,
with a firing pin in the bottom part…? You’d make damn’ sure you didn’t hit
anything, right?

:3+)

-Jan

From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 19:28:07 -0700
Subject: 85 XJ-S : rear whine on de-acceleration

Hi to all,

Is this a pre-cursor to bad things?..The old cat produces a low level whine
whenever I de-accelerate and only between 45-40 mph. Once below 40, no
whine; ditto when accelerating past 40. Any insights? Thanks,

Rob W-M
85 XJ-S

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 22 Nov 96 10:00:20
Subject: Re: NOT - XJ-S differential - finally sorted

Stefan : '88 XJ-S V12, now seriously considering a Merc, Harrumph!

As long as it’s a V12…

:3+)

Commiserations,

-Jan

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 22 Nov 96 10:06:30
Subject: Re: XJ40: Rear Diff Whine

Expiring bearings tend to rumble; a whine from the diff would normally mean
that the crown-wheel and pinion aren’t meshing properly. Now, they might be
misaligned because the pinion bearing is dying, but there are also other
causes. I had an intermittent whine, each time terminated with a THUMP from the
diff of a '51 Rover 75; it turned out that the crown wheel retaining bolts were
breaking off due to fatigue and the noise was the fallen-out head stumps
getting chewed between the gear teeth and the housing…

-Jan

From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 21:34:11 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Thermostat…

Does anyone know which is better for 85 SOV SIII for a
thermostat? The manual says either 160 or 180 and reccommends the 160
for later models but the parts store doesn’t list a 160 for mine it only
lists the 160 for earlier model. Anyone help me out here.

Thanks
Theo

Your manual is wrong. US spec SIII’s use a 88c thermostat. While the lower
value 'stats from earlier cars will fit, the fuel injection is not programmed
to deal with them. With L-jetronic, the cost of a lower stat will be at least
worse fuel mileage and more emissions, and can be as high as a prematurely
worn out engine.

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

From: Vic Naumann jagdoc@erols.com
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 21:42:50 -0500
Subject: Re: 1991 XJS tune-up kit $$$$

Randy Wilson wrote:

I noticed that the plugs, wires, dist. cap etc. included in the standard tune
up kits from SICP are more than twice as expensive

Replace the parts you need. The cap/rotor/wire set on these cars should be
good for over 100K miles.

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
Maybe you can get a cap and rotor to last for 100 K miles but the wires
are laying in the hottest part of the engine compartment. Even at 60 K
they are usually brittle and cracking. I agree you shouldn’t replace
parts needlessly,but I would recommend new wires @ 60K and make sure you
check the cap and rotor. Marelli rotors are prone to burning and the
caps can easily develop small cracks and admit moisture. Preventive
maintenance is better than inconvenient breakdowns.
Regards, Vic

From: “E Parkhurst” ddbird@c2i2.com
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 18:16:19 -0700
Subject: Re: 82 XJ6 S3 Gas leak from overflow

Hi Louis,

I had a similar problem with my 84 XJ6. The problem was traced to the tank
changeover valves. It’s a bit confusing to put into writing, but here
goes…

Wfhen you switch tanks you also switch the fuel return valve. Therefore,
if you have a defective valve and it doesn’t switch then the fuel from the
toher tank will drain back to the first tank as opposed to the tank
curently drawn from. In other words, if you have the left tank full and
the return valve is sticking, when you switch to the right tank the fuel
return from the fuel rails goes into the left tank. I know it sounds
confusing written this way, however you can listen to the change over
valves and have someone switch tanks for you. I bought a new valve, then
discovered that if I took the old one apart carefully, a bit of carb
cleaner took care of the problem. Give it a try. If you get stuck e-mail
me direct and I will try to clear up what I admit is a bit confusing
explaination.

Earl

From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 21:47:08 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Coil polarity

However I maintain as before that if it was advantagous to have a particular
polarity of spark the coil manufactuers have already thought of it and have
it wired correctly internaly.
    JIM I.

All older cars produce a common scope pattern on the secondary side… an
upward spike as the start of the spark. This was considered important
enough that every scope manual included a paragraph explaining that in
inverted pattern was due to a coil wired backwards (they never seemed to
cover positive vs negative grounding), and must be corrected immediately.

However…

As evidence that spark polarity is not really important, I offer the current
trend in DIS (distributorless ignition). the most common design is to use
one coil for every two cylinders. Spark out on one wire and back on the other,
jumping two plugs. with this design half the engine is one polarity, the other
half reversed.

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 22:30:56 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S bodies

On Thu, 21 Nov 1996, Chad Bolles wrote:

is this A: they want the life history of the car, then B: they want the
old body sent back to the UK. An as yet they have to tell me if any
bodies were available at all.

Pay for shipping twice? Not bloody likely! OK, here’s the cover story
for anyone who does this: the car was consumed by Barr’s leaks. Send
them back a couple handfuls of sludge.

From: Chris Walker cbwiii@adnc.com
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 19:06:58 -0800
Subject: Re: XJ6 R&P Spacers etc

I’m replacing the R&P in my '79 XJ6 and am confused about spacers, washers,
thrust washers, etc. When I removed the old assembly the washers
distinegrated, so I’m clueless about if they go inboard or outboard or where
or whatever. Can one of you smarter jag-lovers provide a description/ascii
diagram of the correct layout? FWIW, I’m also ordering the polyurethane
bushings from Terry’s, so am trying to remove the regular rubber bushings
that came with the rebuilt rack and they are SOB’s to take out; any hot tips
on that job?
Many thanks!

From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 22:41:57 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Parcel Post

One day about three weeks ago, I ordered some parts from a Canadian outfit.
The parts were shipped UPS, and I paid the usual handling charge. The
package was in my hands four days later.

The same day, I shipped some parts to a list member in Canada. On the advice
I received here, I used Parcel Post. It was cheaper than UPS, but not a
whole lot. That package still has not arrived. Of course, the post office
doesn’t issue reciepts or offer tracking information. At best, delivery will
be completed very late. At worst, these parts may be lost forever.

The seven bucks I saved weren’t worth it!

Mike Frank

From: Mike Everatt meveratt@Direct.CA
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 19:57:21 -0800
Subject: RE: Best XJ 40 Service Manual

I bought this manual. It’s quite basic – some good info, but skimpy on detailed info. Book is only 5/8" thick – should give you some idea of content!

Wiring diagrams in book are useful, if incomplete and not drawn in color

Still, better than nothing, and reasonable price.

Mike Everatt
1987 XJ40

From: Marshall Hollister-Jones[SMTP:marshall@mentor.co.nz]
Sent: Thursday, November 21, 1996 10:46 AM
To: Jag-Lovers
Subject: Best XJ 40 Service Manual

I am wanting to purchase and XJ40 service manual. It appears there are a
variety of these available of different quality.

I e-mailed Bookspeed with the following answer:

We can supply as follows:

Jaguar XJ6 (XJ40) Manual 1986-1994. Price L19.95

L3.25 post/packing in UK or
L5.95 overseas surface mail

We accept Visa, Master/Eurocard.

Could you please confirm that this is a genuine Jaguar manual and not a
Haines manual or similar.

It is based on the Jaguar New Zealand manual, but is not as
comprehensive as the complete Jaguar manual

Does anybody have any experience with this or recommendations as to which
one I should get and where to get it?

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 23:39:01 -0005
Subject: Re: The deffinative answer to spark polarity

Jim Isbell:

It has just come to me after answering several questions on coil
polarity that this is an easy way to reverse the spark polarity if
a negative spark gives any advantage.

Man, we been milkin’ this issue!

The way ignition coils are wired is so that the output high-tension
voltage – on the order of 50,000 volts – is applied in series with
the 12V of the car’s electrical system. Hence, reversing the voltage
of the coil would result in a net reduction of 24 volts to the spark,
or 12V if you left the electrical system out of the loop and merely
connected the secondary to ground. IOW, totally negligible, but this
is the logic that was used when the polarity of the coil itself was
established.

The idea that one polarity is better than another comes from the
configuration of a spark plug. A spark between a sharp point and a
flat surface will, in fact, jump far better in one direction than the
other. The question is: which of the electrodes on a spark plug may
be considered a “sharp point”? The center electrode of a Bosch
Platinum might be, although since it’s largely surrounded by
porcelain I’m not sure if it gains the full benefit. If it does,
reversing the polarity of the coil might help, since I believe it is
backwards for this case.

For those who pay for Splitfire plugs, the split is intended to
provide sharp edges (similar effect as sharp points) on the ground
terminal. If these edges are effective, you’d wanna leave the
polarity the way it is!

For the rest of us who have had normal plugs in for more than a few
hundred miles, both electrodes are generally pretty smooth, and
reversing the voltage probably would do nothing.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 23:39:01 -0005
Subject: Re: Coil polarity

Jim Isbell:

The “+” and “-” are on the primary winding. The secondary winding is the
center wire and the case.

Actually, I don’t think so. It is my understanding that the primary
is between the + and -, and the secondary is between the center wire
and the +. Checking with my ohmmeter, it appears that my coil is not
grounded internally at all, which seems to confirm this.

For a positive ground I would assume that the “+” terminal goes to the
points and the “-” terminal goes to the battery.

This would, in fact, run the secondary (spark) voltage through the
points – or the ignition amp if so equipped. In either case,
probably not good. Hence, for a positive ground system you need to
connect the points to the - and the battery to the +, in other words
the same way they are on a negative ground car except that the
voltages are backwards. IOW, a true positive ground coil would be
exactly the same except the + terminal would be labelled - and the -
terminal would be labelled +.

Though, except for the
polarity of the condenser, (which could be reversed), it realy shouldn’t
make any difference if the case of the coil is not connected to either the
“+” or “-” terminal.

It better not be! If the case is grounded (by mounting) and is
connected to the + terminal, it is a direct short. If connected to
the - terminal, it bypasses the points to ground and there won’t be
any spark.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 00:23:29 -0005
Subject: Re: Coil polarity

Randy K. Wilson:

As evidence that spark polarity is not really important, I offer
the current trend in DIS (distributorless ignition). the most
common design is to use one coil for every two cylinders. Spark
out on one wire and back on the other, jumping two plugs. with this
design half the engine is one polarity, the other half reversed.

Oooo, I didn’t know that! I always presumed each of those coils had
one primary and two secondaries. Presumed the same thing regarding
the Harley-Davidson.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 00:23:30 -0005
Subject: XJ-S: Motorola Alternators

Well, having my curiosity piqued regarding Motorola alternators, I
called SICP today. I have their latest catalog (three), and on page
143 it lists the various Lucas and Bosch alternators that fit these
cars, by year. However, at the bottom of the page is an illustration
of a “rebuilt Motorola alternator” with absolutely no clue what it’s
there for; no listings of applications, nothing. So, I called and
asked.

Turns out the Motorola alternator is NLA at SICP, and their computer
records (which go back a year) indicate no sales. So, with SICP
anyway, it’s Lucas or Bosch.

My SICP price list, which is actually quite old, lists the price of
the Motorola alternator as over $400! This, combined with the fact
that the catalog doesn’t say what the alternator is there for, may go
a long way toward explaining the lack of sales. And the lack of
sales may be why the unit is NLA.

Of course, I’d STILL like to know if there really exists a Motorola
alternator that fits this car, and where to get one. What kinds of
cars were originally fitted with Motorolas?

I neglected to ask if the various Lucas or Bosch units are
interchangible, something else I’ve always wanted to add to the help
book. Page 144 indicates the mounting bracket changed at 8S57572,
and that apparently corresponds to when the 115 amp Bosch replaced
the 75 amp Lucas. So, if you buy the bracket, can you upgrade to the
Bosch unit? Oh, well, maybe next call.

The SICP catalog, in listing the various catalog numbers for Bosch
alternators, notes that the part number refers to a “Lucas
replacement to original Bosch unit.” Not sure if I’d be real happy
with such a substitution, especially since the Lucas isn’t cheap.
There is no mention of the amperages of the Lucas replacements other
than listing those of the original Bosch units. Yeah, I shoulda
asked about that too.

Wonder if you have to switch back to the earlier mount bracket to use
the Lucas replacement for the Bosch unit?

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 21:24:12 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: SuperSleuths

Newport Imports closed down several years ago. Sterling BMW has just moved
into the facility, but it looked to me to have gotten pretty well cleaned
out first! I’ve heard horror stories of people having to retrieve their
partially disassembled cars from there when it was closed down. YOu might
try phoning the various area Jag service shope, as the service techs had to
go somewhere!
In Newport Beach, or Costa Mesa, are Performance Jaguar, Dr. Jaguar,
Sheehan’s (Garage?), Jaguar A-1 Performance, California Coventry,
Bauer Jaguar is the remaining area dealership - they might be of
help. Their number is 714 971-2002.
Good luck!
Hunt

At 12:17 PM 11/21/96 -0800, dneufeld@sanac.usiu.edu wrote:

This one is for any of you jag owners in Southern California who might be
listening - I am attempting to track down the service history for my 87 XJ6
and just discovered that the probable dealer that serviced the car has gone
out of business - It’s called Newport Motors here in So. Cal. and maybe
someone might, by chance, know if there is any chance that the service
histories were preserved??? ( I do believe in Santa Claus and the tooth
fairy) Any takers??? Thanks Don

From: Wleesmith@aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 01:28:31 -0500
Subject: Jag digest

Please sign me up for the jag-lovers-digest. Thank you!!

From: DHarr13177@aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 01:38:09 -0500
Subject: Re: E -type AC unit for sale

In a message dated 96-11-21 19:23:11 EST, aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu (Chad
Bolles) writes:

<< Subj: Re: E -type AC unit for sale
Date: 96-11-21 19:23:11 EST
From: aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu (Chad Bolles)
To: DHarr13177@aol.com

I would like more details on this unit, I have a friend who expressed an
interest, and wanted more info.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

I have an “of the period” aftermarket air-conditioning system with all
hoses, brackets, condensor, evaporator ( complete), which was on my 1966
series 1 FHC. It works well. The compressor mounts upright where the
alternator would be. I mounted a late model GM alternator below the
distributor. An aluminum pulley mounts on the crank balancer and drives the
compressor and alternator with separate belts. The interior unit mounts under
the dash and looks like the series 2 unit. The compressor seals and clutch
are new. I used it when I was in Houston. I don’t need it in Seattle. I have
$ 2,000 into it. Will take $1,000.
Doug

From: David Hurlston viadata@mindspring.com
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 00:45:35 -0600
Subject: A/C license

How does one go about getting the license?

You do need a license to install any refrigerant in the US. The license is a
$25 inconvenience.
David Hurlston, ViaData Incorporated

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 08:17:50 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: gasoline fumes in cabin of XJS

If this has been covered recently I apologise. Are there any particular
places I should look as possible sources of a strong gasoline smell in
the cabin of our 83 XJS? (Seems to be coming from the rear of the car)
The smell has been there for years, but it has gotten stronger recently.
This isn’t the kind of thing our (good) mechanic seems to be interested
in tracking down. Don’t want to explode or anything. Any ideas will be
appreciated.

I had a leak in the fuel-tank and fuel entered into the cabin behind the
rear seats. Simply remove the seats and check.

Also check the foam under the fuel tank, typically it will soak up a lot
of fuel if it is the tank leaking.

- Matthias

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #540

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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 22 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 541

Re: 85 XJ-S : rear whine on de-acceleration
Re: SuperSleuths
Re: XJ-S: Motorola Alternators
Re: XJ-S bodies
Re: XJ6 R&P Spacers etc
Re: gasoline fumes in cabin of XJS
RE: Best XJ 40 Service Manual
Series II steering column problem
Re: XJ-S: Bosch/Lucas Alternators
Re: 85 XJ-S : rear whine on de-acceleration
XJ-S diff - I don’t believe it !
Re: Coil polarity
XJ6 S3 Rich Cold Idle
Re: XJ-S diff - I don’t believe it !
Re: 85 XJ-S : rear whine on de-acceleration
Re: XJ40: Rear Diff Whine
Re: 85 XJ-S : rear whine on de-acceleration
FW: PC Shareware to track your maintenance
Re: XJ6 S3 Rich Cold Idle
Re: SuperSleuths

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 08:20:17 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: 85 XJ-S : rear whine on de-acceleration

Is this a pre-cursor to bad things?..The old cat produces a low level whine
whenever I de-accelerate and only between 45-40 mph. Once below 40, no
whine; ditto when accelerating past 40. Any insights? Thanks,

That’s the final drive I guess. Did you check (or change) oil ? The
Jag manual has a section for the final drive and explains how to check
bearing preloads for these type of noises

- Matthias

Rob W-M
85 XJ-S

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 02:29:59 -0005
Subject: Re: SuperSleuths

This one is for any of you jag owners in Southern California who might be
listening - I am attempting to track down the service history for my 87 XJ6
and just discovered that the probable dealer that serviced the car has gone
out of business - It’s called Newport Motors here in So. Cal. and maybe
someone might, by chance, know if there is any chance that the service
histories were preserved??? ( I do believe in Santa Claus and the tooth
fairy) Any takers??? Thanks Don

Y’know, interestingly enough I was recently told that Newport Motors
is one HUGE outfit dealing in many different makes of cars. I can
believe this, since there is a similar situation in St. Petersburg,
Florida – you drive down this road full of car dealers, Jag here,
Fiat accross the street, Alfa Romeo next block, a half dozen at
least, all with the same name and owned by the same guy. In any
case, this fellow told me that Newport most certainly is not out of
business, perhaps they just ceased carrying Jags. Perhaps one of the
other dealers could provide some guidance. Of course, you
guys who live in the area should know better.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 22 Nov 96 19:13:15
Subject: Re: XJ-S: Motorola Alternators

Dunno who SICP is, Kirby, but I can tell you the following for your general
delectation and edification:

My '78 XJ12L has a Lucas alternator. The angle of the mounting lugs is such
that it has a very long belt tension adjusting screw.
I bought ($700 Oz,/$500 US) a spare low-compression lead-free V12 out of a
crashed (the engine and gearbox had been snapped apart, breaking both cases)
Japanese XJS (unknown year but pre-HE) for spare parts (there’s a thriving
industry in Australia importing used Japanese engines, and this one was
included in a job-lot). This engine, the cylinders, crankshaft, pistons and
rods of which now grace my XJ12L, had a Motorola alternator with blown diodes.
The angle of the mounting lugs is such that it has a relatively short belt
tension adjusting screw (about 90 deg less than the above).
My XJ12C has a Lucas alternator with a (censured)-weak regulator, and the
angle of the mounting lugs and hence the adjusting screw length is the same as
on the Motorola alternator.
Now you know as much as I do about Jaguar V12 alternators…

-Jan

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 07:47:22 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S bodies

John: Do you think that they would buy that story, BARRS LEAK indeed!!!
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Coumbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 08:00:11 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ6 R&P Spacers etc

Chris: The spacer go on the ends of each bushing. To remove the
bushings,first you need a Ford hammer(as in Big),then find an old socket
that just fits(I think a 1/2 drive 3/4 will do ), and an extension(to
keep from hitting your hand),with this you can drive out the bushings.
Works for me.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 07:54:52 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: gasoline fumes in cabin of XJS

The fuel tanks like to leak. This is usuall caused by water leaking past
the seal on the rear window,because the owner will not spend the money to
have it replaced as they should. The water gets down under the pad,which
acts like a sponge,then the tank starts rusting. This may be the source
of your problem.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044On
Thu, 21 Nov 1996, Fondrie/Gleboff wrote:

If this has been covered recently I apologise. Are there any particular
places I should look as possible sources of a strong gasoline smell in
the cabin of our 83 XJS? (Seems to be coming from the rear of the car)
The smell has been there for years, but it has gotten stronger recently.
This isn’t the kind of thing our (good) mechanic seems to be interested
in tracking down. Don’t want to explode or anything. Any ideas will be
appreciated.

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 08:06:33 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: Best XJ 40 Service Manual

Mike and Marshall: I can supply the factory XJ-40 1988-89 repair manual
(5 volumes) price $230, the manuals for the 90-92 cars (8 volumes)around
$450 the 93-94 cars around $350.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: Peter Brown pbro@ozemail.com.au
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 1996 00:30:55 +1100
Subject: Series II steering column problem

Hi all,
Something has dropped in my steering column.
Driving home, the horn went off intermittently (entertaining for other
drivers).
Having disconnected relay hurriedly (undoing four hours’ work) I
subsequently found quite a bit of play in the wheel.
Got the car home, removed steering wheel, found play in the shaft.
At the bottom of the column, a grey toothed bearing-like object
protruded between the column and the UJ.
I can press it back into the column, but it doesn’t mind coming out
again without
too much resistance.
The Haynes (a.k.a. Hyenas) manual doesn’t go into any detail of what
could be wrong.
Can anyone help? It would be greatly appreciated.
Regards
Peter Brown
pbro@onaustralia.com.au/pbro@ozemail.com.au
SII Daimler Double Six (lobotomised, sad to say)

From: hdrsons@iamerica.net (Hal Rogers)
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 1996 05:04:14 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ-S: Bosch/Lucas Alternators

Kirbert wrote

I neglected to ask if the various Lucas or Bosch units are
interchangible, something else I’ve always wanted to add to the help

As far as I know the Bosch remanufactured units are interchangeable. They
just take an old Lucas core and rebuild it to their specs.

Regards,
Hal

Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
Import Auto Specialists
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax

Serving Auto Enthusiasts since 1959

From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 11:07:47 GMT
Subject: Re: 85 XJ-S : rear whine on de-acceleration

In message 199611220227.TAA20516@goodguy.goodnet.com ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik) writes:

Is this a pre-cursor to bad things?..The old cat produces a low level whine
whenever I de-accelerate and only between 45-40 mph. Once below 40, no
whine; ditto when accelerating past 40. Any insights? Thanks,

This is EXACTLY the symptom with which my first two diffs this year failed.
The whine is caused by excessive crownwheel to pinion clearance. You’ll find
that there’s a whine around 85mph and around 127mph as well.

The problem can be caused by wear (probably the cause with your diff if it’s
the original one) or by incompetent installation - there’s a collapsible
spacer involved. That appears to have been the case with mine.

You’ll need a rebuilt differential. Based on my experience this year (3 diffs
failed over 9 months, the car is at present in the shop to have the fourth
one fitted) I recommend that you do NOT get a Jaguar factory rebuild but take
it to a competent local rebuild company instead.

Regards,

Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk

From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 12:59:04 GMT
Subject: XJ-S diff - I don’t believe it !

Further to recent grief (locked up limited slip clutch), the garage just
called. Said that when they installed diff #3, they filled it with Mobil
something or other, they didn’t remember (?!) the exact naem of the oil.

They had now drained the Mobil stuff and filled it with Shell Spirax and
a teflon additive.

Two questions:

I always thought that Shell Spirax is designed for use in limited slip
diffs and doesn’t require the presence of an additional additive. Is that
right ?
Is there likely to be any residual damage from the time (c. 700 miles)
that I drove the thing with the wrong oil. Swarf from the clutch plates or
anything else that causes long-term damage ? I am concerned that this will
only manifest itself after the warranty has expired.

Regards,

Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk

From: Frans HOEKEMEIJER hoekemei@ps.msm.cern.ch
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 16:05 +0100
Subject: Re: Coil polarity

This is good to know. That means that to reverse the spark polarity it
would require that you modify the coil internaly.
snip
No, it doesn’t.

Right, except I don’t want to try to rewire the inside of a coil,
Just get a new one.

Not necessary.

snip
However I maintain as before that if it was advantagous to have a
particular
polarity of spark the coil manufactuers have already thought of it and
have
it wired correctly internaly.
Of course, pos.earth car coils and neg. earth cars can use the same coil.=20
The wiring is floating, not connected to the outside can. The earth=20
connection of the H.T. bobbin is to one of the low tension connections. As=20
this bobbin is very low resistance and impedance, it doesn’t matter to which=20=

one. What matters is that the coil is properly connected, on a pos. earth=20
car the + or CB to the distributor and - or SW to the 12 V from the ignition=20=

switch. It has something to do with the electrons preferring to jump from a=20=

central electrode that is hot to colder earth rather than the opposite way.=20=

It makes about 20% difference in the High Voltage requirements of the=20
engine, specially at higher revs and with a contact breaker (non electronic)=20=

system.
I will be travelling tomorrow to my home country (Holland, and not by Jaguar=20=

unfortunately) coming back in a week. See you then.
Frans.

Cheers Lauren

Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 11/21/96
Time: 4:36:00 PM

This message was sent by Chameleon

=20

From: is.grant@pti-us.com (Ian Grant)
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 10:07:09 -0500 (EST)
Subject: XJ6 S3 Rich Cold Idle

My 1982 S3 XJ6 is idling rich when cold. The symptoms are rough idle, black
exhaust smoke, rpm cycles from normal down to near stalling and back. When
the engine temperature reaches 60C it starts to run OK. This problem seems
to have built up slowly over the past 2 years. The car has 60,000 miles and
is not driven in winter.

I’ve checked for leaking injectors, cold start injector timing, fuel
pressure, vacuum leaks, plugs and ignition timing, and have exchanged the
EFI computer, the air flow meter, the O2 sensor, and the coolant temperature
sensor. The local Jag dealer is not good and I am reluctant to go there.

A friend suggested the problem may be the throttle position sensor being
worn or needing adjustment.

Anyone have any experience like this?

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 16:37:28 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: XJ-S diff - I don’t believe it !

Further to recent grief (locked up limited slip clutch), the garage just
called. Said that when they installed diff #3, they filled it with Mobil
something or other, they didn’t remember (?!) the exact naem of the oil.

They had now drained the Mobil stuff and filled it with Shell Spirax and
a teflon additive.

The question is : did the oil change fix your problem, e.g. whine and noise. ?

Two questions:

I always thought that Shell Spirax is designed for use in limited slip
diffs and doesn’t require the presence of an additional additive. Is that
right ?

Yes, I think the additive is only required if you don’t have the right oil,
but maybe someone knows the real story.

Is there likely to be any residual damage from the time (c. 700 miles)
that I drove the thing with the wrong oil. Swarf from the clutch plates or
anything else that causes long-term damage ? I am concerned that this will
only manifest itself after the warranty has expired.

Given the trouble you had and that they used the wrong oil, why don’t you
asked for a longer warranty ? Do you think they used 3 times the
wrong oil ?

Regards,

Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk

From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 08:39:38 MDT
Subject: Re: 85 XJ-S : rear whine on de-acceleration

Is this a pre-cursor to bad things?..The old cat produces a low level whine
whenever I de-accelerate and only between 45-40 mph. Once below 40, no
whine; ditto when accelerating past 40. Any insights? Thanks,

This is EXACTLY the symptom with which my first two diffs this year failed.
The whine is caused by excessive crownwheel to pinion clearance. You’ll find
that there’s a whine around 85mph and around 127mph as well.

I second that diagnosis. It is likely to be an excessive backlash
and / or a bad toe-heel contact on the ring and pinion gears.

The problem can be caused by wear (probably the cause with your diff if it’s
the original one) or by incompetent installation - there’s a collapsible
spacer involved. That appears to have been the case with mine.

That spacer controls the depth of the pinion gear and will cause the
backlash to change as well as the toe-heel contact pattern. Having
the primary point of contact on the ring gear too far outward or too
far inward will cause the whine. You can get under the car and move
the driveshaft while in neutral. An excess amount of play between
forward and reverse directions indicates that your diff is out of
specification.

You’ll need a rebuilt differential. Based on my experience this year (3 diffs
failed over 9 months, the car is at present in the shop to have the fourth
one fitted) I recommend that you do NOT get a Jaguar factory rebuild but take
it to a competent local rebuild company instead.

While I am sure that a rebuilt diff will solve the problem, I have
had luck by simply resetting the toe-heel contact and backlash on
worn differentials. The cost of the bearing kit, which would be much
less than the complete gear set, would contain the correct shims and
crush sleeve.

Anybody else out there tried simply resetting the diff. ? If so, how
did it work for you ?

Kind Regards,

Jim Cantrell

From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 08:44:30 MDT
Subject: Re: XJ40: Rear Diff Whine

Jan wrote:

Expiring bearings tend to rumble; a whine from the diff would normally mean
that the crown-wheel and pinion aren’t meshing properly. Now, they might be
misaligned because the pinion bearing is dying, but there are also other
causes. I had an intermittent whine, each time terminated with a THUMP from the
diff of a '51 Rover 75; it turned out that the crown wheel retaining bolts were
breaking off due to fatigue and the noise was the fallen-out head stumps
getting chewed between the gear teeth and the housing…

Dana differentials are known to have this same type of behavior. The
ring gear bolts either fatigue and break or simply vibrate out and
eventually fall out and chew up the ENTIRE differential. The effect
of the bolts going around the gears can be both entertaining and
dangerous if it locks up at the wrong time. I make a habit of
occasionally checking the torque of the ring gear bolts when I change
the differential gear oil every few years. I have also installed
some semi-permanent thread locking adhesive to the bolts on freshly
rebuilt units.

Kind Regards,

Jim Cantrell

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 16:45:57 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: 85 XJ-S : rear whine on de-acceleration

In message 199611220227.TAA20516@goodguy.goodnet.com ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik) writes:

Is this a pre-cursor to bad things?..The old cat produces a low level whine
whenever I de-accelerate and only between 45-40 mph. Once below 40, no
whine; ditto when accelerating past 40. Any insights? Thanks,

This is EXACTLY the symptom with which my first two diffs this year failed.
The whine is caused by excessive crownwheel to pinion clearance. You’ll find
that there’s a whine around 85mph and around 127mph as well.

You should be able to correct this if it is excessive play by tighting
up the nut on the drive shaft, I think. But this will compress the
collapsable spacer, so you better make sure you don’t overtight it.

When I had my diff whining I had tried turn the nut by 1/4 tour, and the
whine was there all the times.

You need to measure the force necessary to get the shaft turning. Maybe the
diffs come from the factory and require this adjustement …

The repair manual has a section how to set the preload including values.
Send mail if you wan the values, my workshop book is in german …

Kind regards

- Matthias

From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 16:51:46 +0100
Subject: FW: PC Shareware to track your maintenance

Found this on the Mercedes mailing list and thought maybe someone here
might be interested.

(I haven’t installed the program yet so I don’t know if it’s any good).

Gunnar

From: Rob Vonderhaar[SMTP:RVonder@ix.netcom.com]
Sent: 19. november 1996 14:10
To: mercedes@bga.com
Subject: FYI: PC Shareware to track your maintenance

Rob Vonderhaar RVonder@ix.netcom.com
Hi all,

Figured some of you, especially those who work on their own MB’s, might be
interested in the attached… it’s PC WORLD’s Windows 95 Shareware Pick of
the Day.

AUTO: V3.5 AUTO MAINTENANCE PRO
http://www.pcworld.com/cgi-bin/shareware?ID=1455 (199k)
Auto Maintenance Pro (AMP) helps you track and organize the
maintenance on your vehicles. AMP allows you to keep track of your
vehicle maintenance information and keeps track of when maintenance
is next due, and you can print detailed history reports that it
creates. AMP keeps track of your maintenance by mileage and
automatically builds a history report that can improve the resale
value of your vehicle.

AMP has full loading, saving, and printing capabilities, and has a
very attractive interface with an icon toolbar that activates many of
the functions provided. This file requires VBRUN300.DLL (Visual Basic
Runtime). Released November 1996.

Rob Vonderhaar
Reston, VA
1995 SL500
Member, MBCA

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 17:02:22 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: XJ6 S3 Rich Cold Idle

My 1982 S3 XJ6 is idling rich when cold. The symptoms are rough idle, black
exhaust smoke, rpm cycles from normal down to near stalling and back. When
the engine temperature reaches 60C it starts to run OK. This problem seems
to have built up slowly over the past 2 years. The car has 60,000 miles and
is not driven in winter.

I’ve checked for leaking injectors, cold start injector timing, fuel
pressure, vacuum leaks, plugs and ignition timing, and have exchanged the
EFI computer, the air flow meter, the O2 sensor, and the coolant temperature
sensor. The local Jag dealer is not good and I am reluctant to go there.

A friend suggested the problem may be the throttle position sensor being
worn or needing adjustment.

I had a bad throttle pit. Try to check the throttle poti with an ohmmeter.
Be sure to note the position of the poti in case before you remove it.

Mine had worn through the restance surface, but I was able to repair it.
Let me know if you need more information

Anyone have any experience like this?

From: “Lee Walden” lwalden@ebmud.com
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 08:10:42 -0800
Subject: Re: SuperSleuths

Well as of two years ago, they were Bankrupt Jag/Ferrari/Lotus/Range Rover
were marques. Dealer was Newport Imports. Newport Motors was the Rolls
Royce Dealer. Warranty history is available from any dealer, but customer
pay items would only be available from Newport.

From: Kirbert palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Re: SuperSleuths
Date: Thursday, November 21, 1996 6:34 PM

This one is for any of you jag owners in Southern California who might
be
listening - I am attempting to track down the service history for my 87
XJ6
and just discovered that the probable dealer that serviced the car has
gone
out of business - It’s called Newport Motors here in So. Cal. and maybe

someone might, by chance, know if there is any chance that the service
histories were preserved??? ( I do believe in Santa Claus and the
tooth
fairy) Any takers??? Thanks Don

Y’know, interestingly enough I was recently told that Newport Motors
is one HUGE outfit dealing in many different makes of cars. I can
believe this, since there is a similar situation in St. Petersburg,
Florida – you drive down this road full of car dealers, Jag here,
Fiat accross the street, Alfa Romeo next block, a half dozen at
least, all with the same name and owned by the same guy. In any
case, this fellow told me that Newport most certainly is not out of
business, perhaps they just ceased carrying Jags. Perhaps one of the
other dealers could provide some guidance. Of course, you
guys who live in the area should know better.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #541

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jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 23 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 542

Oil seal - valve
86 XJ6 …help, please
R406 approval
Re: gasoline fumes in cabin of XJS
Re[2]: Coil polarity
86 XJ6 help, please…
Coil polarity.
Re: 85 XJ-S : rear whine on de-acceleration
leather renovation
Re: 82 XJ6 S3 Gas leak from overflow
Re: Series II steering column problem
Re: SuperSleuths
Re: 85 XJ-S : rear whine on de-acceleration
For J. Isbell Only
diff trouble, continued
xj6c for sale
Jag Lovers List
Re: Coil polarity.
Re: XJ40: Rear Diff Whine
XJ-S transmission
Re: 85 XJ-S : rear whine on de-acceleration

From: martin.jacobsen@login.eunet.no (Martin Jacobsen)
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 19:59:50 -0100
Subject: Oil seal - valve

Hello,
Blusmoking engine (3.8 - 1961) - somebody familiar with the problem? I
don’t want to spend too much money to restore the engine total just now,
because I hope to buy another jag (XK 140) and need the money. But I should
like to get rid of the blue smoke.

In general I think the engine is in sound order. Fast, nearly new chains etc.
Oil pressure is OK (40 psi /hot engine), compression-test shows from
11.5-12.2 kg/sq.cm (12.5 kg/cm=180 lbs/sq.inch.= appr.normal).

I my opinion the cause of the failure can be whether oil securing ring or
the valve guides (or oil seal?) I dont think oil seal was originaly mountet
on a 61 mod., but I think it is possible (?).
that is the guides worn, it’s a shortcut)

My questions is:

Is it possible to carry thorugh the work without removing the
cylinderhead? Somebody told me that it is possible to use airpressure to
the valves in place.
I purchased a set of oil seal from a jag.part dealer in England. It was
rubber thorough. A local mecanich told me that he used seals with a
securing spring (a sort of zimmerring). Any comments?
If this is an recommendable way, is it other things I should keep my
attention on?

Thank you
Martin
(Mk II 3.8 61, and I hope XK140 DHC on the road next summer)

From: “Gary H. Zajic” zajic@umich.edu
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 14:06:29 -0500 (EST)
Subject: 86 XJ6 …help, please

Hey Jag-lovers, Just finished a 3200 mile trip to my
parents home and back in my 86 XJ6 with absolutely no
problems then decided to take it to the neuroscience
meeting in DC…not!
I had the car all packed and ready to go but when I went
to pick up my friend who was to ride along the trouble
started. It started missing like crazy (like there was
moisture in the distributor or something) and I could
barely get it over to his house (about 5 miles). Missing,
loss of power, and smoking. I didn’t smell antifreeze.
It was running sooooo good in fact that the state troopers
hammered me for speeding just that morning. ouch Then out
of the blue it doesn’t run…any ideas that I could check
out? Went to DC anyway in my buddies car and let it set on
the street. Tried it last night when we returned and it
started up but began missing right off. We were getting
a bite to eat somewhere off the Penn turnpike when we went
by a Jag dealers so I said to pull in. Someone there said
it sounded like a blown intake manifold and that would be
about $1000 to fix. Oh no!!! I am off to the car after
I send this and I will spray a little WD-40 around the
intake manifold gasket to see if that will make the engine
surge any. Hope that’s not it…would that happen so
suddenly??? I will have it towed tomorrow to a repair shop
if I cant find and fix the problem. I’ll check back here
just before doing that to look for any helpful suggestions.
125,000 miles
I had just topped off both tanks with good 92 or 93 octane
gas. I mean I really topped them off because we had a long
drive coming up thru the night. Could that have had some-
thing to do with it? seems funny that it would. Well, I’m
off for now. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance, Gary
oh yeah, I did pull the distributor and it was dry as a bone.
The new Jags were so sweet!

From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 14:53:56 -0500 (EST)
Subject: R406 approval

R406 is approved for automotive use in the US as of 11/15/96. The citation
is 61FR54030, for those with access to the Federal Register.

Additional information is at the R406 website, which I mentioned in my
previous post.

Mike Frank

From: Cliff Sadler ata@netsrq.com
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 15:04:26 -0500
Subject: Re: gasoline fumes in cabin of XJS

Fondrie/Gleboff wrote:

If this has been covered recently I apologise. Are there any particular
places I should look as possible sources of a strong gasoline smell in
the cabin of our 83 XJS? (Seems to be coming from the rear of the car)
The smell has been there for years, but it has gotten stronger recently.
This isn’t the kind of thing our (good) mechanic seems to be interested
in tracking down. Don’t want to explode or anything. Any ideas will be
appreciated.

Yes it has been covered a number of times, but for your safety, let’s do
it again. The most likely source of the smell is from a pinhole leak in
the bottom of the fuel tank. A quick check is to look in the trunk,
behind the spare tire (remove it) for something wet around the bottom of
the tank. There is a rivet that tends to rub on the tank bottom,
eventually thinning it out enough to start a seep. Other possibilities
are the flange and pipe where the fuel exits the tank into the fuel
filter/pump, etc., any of the tank fittings, hose clamps, the hose
itself, (especially in an '83), or the hose that connects two metal fuel
lines under the carriage, up over the rear passenger wheel well.

Remember it doen’t take much gas to get a heavy smell. And, as pointed
out in this list, gasoline is a wonderful metal seperator when ignited.
And we’re stupid enough to drive around in a car that has the battery
next to the gas tank!

Side note, my wife absolutely refused to drive in, ride in or park next
to my 83 XJS until I removed the tank, fixed the leak, disposed of the
saturated pad it sat on, and test drove it for another 1,00 or so
miles…

From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 15:24:16 -0600
Subject: Re[2]: Coil polarity

Does that mean you should rotate your spark plugs every 50,000 miles to even out
the wear?

MikeC

______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: Coil polarity
Author: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net at Internet
Date: 11/21/1996 9:47 PM

As evidence that spark polarity is not really important, I offer the current
trend in DIS (distributorless ignition). the most common design is to use
one coil for every two cylinders. Spark out on one wire and back on the other,
jumping two plugs. with this design half the engine is one polarity, the other
half reversed.

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

From: “Gary H. Zajic” zajic@umich.edu
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 15:57:47 -0500 (EST)
Subject: 86 XJ6 help, please…

Hey Jag-Lovers, Now that I could look at my car in
the light of day it seems the problem might be different
than I first thought. It is still running rougher than
a cob and smoking like crazy even under the hood. I
see smoke and feel exhaust coming out from the first
bank on the exhaust manifold. It is where they join
to a Y before going into the common exhaust/converter.
Now I wouldn’t think that would cause the car to be
running so poorly though unless there is excessive
back-pressure. Could this possible be coming from
a fouled catalytic converter? If so, is there any
solution other than replacing it? Cleaner additive?
Thanks in advance, Gary

From: Chiahotny David DCHIAHOT@DQC2C.DOFASCO.CA
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 96 09:47:00 EST
Subject: Coil polarity.

Just a paragraph to help you to understand why spark plug
polarity is important. The difference in polarity may account
for about 20 to 25 percent difference in required spark voltage
for a similar current (‘ignition power’)spark. Thus, you get a ‘hotter’
spark from the same system if you follow the polarity rules properly.

The spark from the spark plug is essentially a stream of electrons.
The electrons leave the negative terminal of the plug and flow through
the fuel/air mixture of the combustion chamber to the positive terminal-
be that the spark plug, the head or whatever. It is well documented
scientifically that a hot object emits electrons much more efficiently
than a cold object. Therefore, the spark requires less voltage to produce
the same current (which is proportional to the heat or ignition power of the
spark) if the negative terminal is hotter than the positive terminal.
The centre terminal of a spark plug is hotter than the body of the plug.
This is because the centre terminal is insulated with ceramic material
and has a metallic conductor which is relatively thin, to the spark plug
lead. The other spark plug terminal is directly in contact with the head
which provides great heat sinking capacity and is water cooled (usually).
The best spark occurs then, when the spark plug lead is negative with
respect
to the cylinder head or car block.

David Chiahotny '70 E-type (30k pieces)
Hamilton, Ont. '71 Spitfire
Canada.

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 17:03:48 -0005
Subject: Re: 85 XJ-S : rear whine on de-acceleration

The whine is caused by excessive crownwheel to pinion clearance.

Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR:

You should be able to correct this if it is excessive play by tighting
up the nut on the drive shaft, I think. But this will compress the
collapsable spacer, so you better make sure you don’t overtight it.

Don’t do any such thing until we get this straight!

If I understand it correctly, tightening up that nut (which is how
the clearance is set to begin with) will LOOSEN the clearance.
Chances are real good you don’t wanna do this. Any authoritative
input here?

By the way, is there anyone that understands the advantages of this
crushable sleeve over a shim pack? Seems to me the crushable sleeve
idea really sucks.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: Rod Farmer 100646.664@CompuServe.COM
Date: 22 Nov 96 17:30:21 EST
Subject: leather renovation

Can anyone offer advice on renovatin leather? I have a XJ40 with 160,000 on the
clock. It is a 1988 and has been well loked after mechanialy, howerver the seat
are cream leather going on worn!

Any tips on renovation, what type of cleaner / conditiouner or how can I get
back the colour on a solid 19998 car?

Thanks in anticipation

Rod Farmer

From: Vic Naumann jagdoc@erols.com
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 17:42:37 -0500
Subject: Re: 82 XJ6 S3 Gas leak from overflow

Luis Magdaleno wrote:

On close inspection it turned out that the driver-side tank was overflowing and gas seeping out the overflow drain. In the mean time the right-side tank fuel level was lowering. Probably a faulty return valve behind left rear wheel,access panel held on by three screws.This side is the usual one to fail. Regards,Vic From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 17:41:44 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Series II steering column problem Peter: The bearing in the column has gone bad,no repair that I know of,have yet to see anybody rebuilding them. You will have to buy a new or good used. Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044 From: Vic Naumann jagdoc@erols.com Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 17:46:12 -0500 Subject: Re: SuperSleuths If I obtain a printout of the repairs from the dealer, will it now include “all books, and records” such as people mention when selling the car? Thanks for mentioning this service also. Regards, Eric 1989 XJ40-VDP Printout from Jaguar will include only warranty repairs,the servicing dealer may suply copies of his service records if he wants to . Regards,Vic From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 16:00:26 MDT Subject: Re: 85 XJ-S : rear whine on de-acceleration Kirby wrote:

Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR:
You should be able to correct this if it is excessive play by tighting
up the nut on the drive shaft, I think. But this will compress the
collapsable spacer, so you better make sure you don’t overtight it.

Don’t do any such thing until we get this straight!

If I understand it correctly, tightening up that nut (which is how
the clearance is set to begin with) will LOOSEN the clearance.
Chances are real good you don’t wanna do this. Any authoritative
input here?

You are right. The nut will decrease the depth of the crushable
sleeve which will move the pinion away from the ring gear. the
result will be an increase in the backlash in the gears and,
presumably, a worsening of the problem. You are absolutely right
Kirby - DON’T DO IT UNTIL YOU KNOW WHAT’S GOING ON.

By the way, is there anyone that understands the advantages of this
crushable sleeve over a shim pack? Seems to me the crushable sleeve
idea really sucks.

The main advantage of the crushable sleeve is that 1) it requires
less time for assembly because there is no trial and error in
selecting the shims. Presumably, this would result in a faster
production line. 2) The repair mechanic has less trial and error time
in the assembly but more opportunity to screw it up. Net result is
that the crushable sleeve is a less reliable implimentation, IMHO, when
comapred with the shims. The older Dana differentials (non Jag at
least) had only shims for the adjustments. Around the late 70’s, the
crushable sleeves were implimented on light duty axles. Large truck
axles still seem to use mostly shims. I would imagine that they are
more immune to variations in tolerance over time caused by creep.
Since the sleeve is potentially under constant stress, the can creep
into a condition where there is higher backlash. Personally, I hate
the crush sleeves since they are very finicky to install. And if you
get it wrong, guess what, time to buy a new sleeve !

Kind Regards,

Jim Cantrell

From: Brian c556987@showme.missouri.edu
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 17:19:10 -0600
Subject: For J. Isbell Only

Dear Mr. Isbell:

James A. Isbell wrote:

The gaul of you. If you cannot handle the heat of a rational argument
without slandering me then you should be shot as I said, with tongue in
cheek, in my first post. However I will remove my tongue from my cheek for you.

I dont know that you will get any posts from the list, since they have more
good sense than to fall into the trap you think you have set. But if you do
they will probably burn your ass.

I am surprised that Nick did not cut you off the list for that Faux Pas.

Just where do you come off getting onto the list under false pretenses just
so you could post a jack ass comment like that?

You are not capable of rational discorse so you stoop to slander. This is
why cyclist cannot be allowed any priveleges.

–
Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

It is funny, but I am not the one blocking all of my email, while
sending out email to others telling them that they cannot handle the
heat of a rational argument.

If you feel like having a rational argument, give me the proper address
so that we may exchange email.

To all others: This is my final post, as I will not be responding to any
further emails from Mr. Isbell unless he supplies me with the proper
access. I apologize for the intrusion, however I feel it unacceptable
that I receive such email and yet amd not allowed the decency of a
response. Again, given Mr. Isbell’s behavior, I urge you to consider his
posts carefully.

PS: What trap, exactly, did I set? I do not recall any such thing.

Brian Hossfeld
mailto:c556987@showme.missouri.edu
http://www.missouri.edu/~c556987/

From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 23:05:22 GMT
Subject: diff trouble, continued

In message 199611221537.QAA01664@turquoise.cray.com.cray.com mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR) writes:

The question is : did the oil change fix your problem, e.g. whine and noise. ?
This (third) diff did not whine, it ‘only’ locked up the limited slip clutch.
Lack of suitable oil would be a plausible explanation, but I’m not an expert.
I’ll only find out tomorrow when I’ll pick up the car again.

Given the trouble you had and that they used the wrong oil, why don’t you
asked for a longer warranty ?

Good idea. Now why didn’t I think of that ? Seriously, I will.

Do you think they used 3 times the
wrong oil ?

Erm, no. First two times I rejected the diffs because of whine, that was
caused by excessive crownwheel to pinion clearance. Third time (this time)
the wrong oil was used.

Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk

From: CARPERSON@aol.com
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 19:20:41 -0500
Subject: xj6c for sale

Hi fellow jaglovers,I am looking for the proper residence for my 1976
Jagxj6c. mileage 37,549,new tires, zero miles on engine rebuild,dash and
interior very good. Needs floor drivers side and gas tanks restored. Body in
prime.$4500 US or best offer. Contact carperson@aol.com or Jim 904-427-8621

From: Korte korte@NMHU.CAMPUS.MCI.NET
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 16:24:03 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Jag Lovers List

    I just signed up to the jag lovers list (I hope I did it correct)

and will tell you about my Jag.
I am new to the Jag scene and took about 3 years in finding the Jag my wife
and I liked. It is a 1987 Grey XJ6 and is immaculate 47,800 miles, with new
extra set of mud/snow tires ( I would have preferred a black Jag). During
our search for the Jag of our dreams, I spotted a Jag at a parking lot in
the shopping mall and waited all day for the owner to show up, so I could
ask to buy it. The owner never showed up and I finally came home (120 miles
away).

Recently we were on a get away for the weekend, when this 1987 (our current
Jag) passed us on the Freeway, got off an off ramp and proceeded to a gas
station. My wife and I followed the Jag, asked the owner if they would sell
their Jag, and two weeks later we drove 400 Miles one way to pick up the Jag.

I have taken the Jag to the closest dealer 120 miles away, and had them go
over the auto. The punch list was small and has all been fixed.

Questions:
The Jag dealer says not to use Purolator Oil filters, use 20/50 oil. What’s
the feeling out their. I currently used a Purolator Oil filter and 10/40
oil (Chevron) I am planning on changing to 20/50 Chevron Oil on the next
oil change and will continue with 20/50 Chevron. Is Chevron Oil OK and what
about the Purolator Oil filter???
The car also came with M/S tires with metal studs. Is this ok to use???
The Jag will be in the garage at all times except for good weather.
My wife and I were thinking of purchasing wire wheels for the Jag, any ideas
where and is this a good idea???

I hope this is received by you all.

Thanks

Jerry

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 20:10:13 -0005
Subject: Re: Coil polarity.

David Chiahotny:

The difference in polarity may account for about 20 to 25 percent
difference in required spark voltage for a similar current
(‘ignition power’)spark. Thus, you get a ‘hotter’ spark from the
same system if you follow the polarity rules properly.

The best spark occurs then, when the spark plug lead is negative
with respect to the cylinder head or car block.

20-25% difference is about what I heard too, although I understood
it to be the shape of the terminals rather than the temperature.
So, if the coil manufacturers had their s__t together, they’d
disconnect the base end of the secondary from the + terminal and
connect it to the case instead – and reverse the polarity. This
would reduce the available voltage by 12V (big deal when you’re
talking 50,000) and get the sparks outta the power circuitry, while
improving the spark characteristics considerably.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: ajbeale@squirrel.com.au (A.J. Beale)
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 1996 12:43:20 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ40: Rear Diff Whine

The most likely cause of a whine in the diff of an XJ40 is bearings - a
known weakness. Alan.

From: armsco@primenet.com (Michael)
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 20:14:44 -0700 (MST)
Subject: XJ-S transmission

My '84 XJ-S has just passed 170,000 miles on the original engine. Have not
has such good luck with the transmission. Over the years it had been rebuilt
twice and resealed four times.

Once again it is leaking, and I suspect the converter is going out again in
that on cold starts (not really cold, this is Arizona) in all gears it acts
like I am in neutral. After a few minutes warm up it seems to work okay, but
ocassionaly seems to slip out of and into gear when cruising.

My question is: Would I be better off to buy a rebuilt transmission on an
exchange basis, rather than rebuilding this one again? Normally I prefer to
have my parts rebuilt because I know their history. In this case it seems
unlikely that any exchange transmission would have such high milage on it.

Second question: Would an off the shelf GM-4000 transmission be an exact
replacement. Or, did Jaguar make some modifications to this transmission?

Last question: As long as I am making this change, is there a better
transmission I should consider?

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Michael Minglin

From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 23:55:10 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: 85 XJ-S : rear whine on de-acceleration

If I understand it correctly, tightening up that nut (which is how
the clearance is set to begin with) will LOOSEN the clearance.
Chances are real good you don’t wanna do this. Any authoritative
input here?

You are right. The nut will decrease the depth of the crushable
sleeve which will move the pinion away from the ring gear. the
result will be an increase in the backlash in the gears and,
presumably, a worsening of the problem. You are absolutely right
Kirby - DON’T DO IT UNTIL YOU KNOW WHAT’S GOING ON.

I agree fully with “until you know what’s going on” part. But the rest of it
is simply not true. The pinion depth is set by shimming the rear pinion
bearing. Once this is done, the pinion bearing preload is set by “shimming”
the front pinion bearing. On type 3 Salisbury, Dana, and GKN diffs as
applied to Jag’s, this shimming is done with a crushable collar. Tightening
the nut will push the front bearing back, crushing the collar more. The
rear bearing, pinion gear, and crown wheel all stay in the same place.

Now… having said that… NEVER tighten the pinion nut on a diff. The only
reason it would need tightening is to take the slack out of the pinion
bearings. If there is slack in the bearings, one of two things happened.
Either the bearings are worn and need replacing, or the nut backed off…
at which point the bearings have been run loose, are trashed, and need
replacing. In either situation, tightening the nut may temporarily lessen
the noises… but the damage is done. The fresh preload forces on the
bearings will accelerate the wear, and the noise will soon be back.

By the way, is there anyone that understands the advantages of this
crushable sleeve over a shim pack? Seems to me the crushable sleeve
idea really sucks.
Kind Regards,

Ease of assembly. Pinion bearing preload is normally given in rotational
drag; “xx.x in/lbs” . When shimming (and old Jag diffs are shimmed), you have
to be careful not to get too tight in any of your trial fits… as this
would damage the bearings causing premature failure. So you end up starting
loose, keep removing shims until the freeplay is gone, then carefully step
down a few thou at a time until the preload drag is in spec. this can
take several (many) trial fits. With a collar, it’s a one shot deal. You
effectively go through the same move-n-check process, but each step requires
a minor turn of the nut rather than a complete remove-reshim-retighten cycle.

The down side is that anyone (say doing a pinion seal change) can crank down on
the nut and drasticly alter the settings.

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #542

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jag-lovers-digest Sunday, 24 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 543

Re: XJ6 S3 Rich Cold Idle
Re: XJ-S transmission
XJC 4.2: Clearer Origins
XJ40 - what oil to use (general too)
4.2 with stutter
Re: Best XJ 40 Service Manual
Re: XJ-S transmission
Re: 4.2 with stutter
Re: XJ-S transmission
Re to: leather renovation (Rod Farmer)
XJS Photos Online
E type transmission
where do I start?
Jag shopping
XJ40 Trip computer.
Re: Best XJ 40 Service Manual
Re: where do I start?
Re: gasoline fumes in cabin of XJS
Joining list/club
Copy of: Joining list/club

From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 1996 00:17:55 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ6 S3 Rich Cold Idle

My 1982 S3 XJ6 is idling rich when cold. The symptoms are rough idle, black
exhaust smoke, rpm cycles from normal down to near stalling and back. When
the engine temperature reaches 60C it starts to run OK. This problem seems
to have built up slowly over the past 2 years. The car has 60,000 miles and
is not driven in winter.

A friend suggested the problem may be the throttle position sensor being
worn or needing adjustment.

Bosch L-jet does not have a TPS. In the XJ6 rendition, there is a throttle
switch that closes near full throttle… which kicks the system into open
loop. this will not be your idle problem, as it’s not an idle function, and
when cold, you’re already in open loop.

The most common cause of this I’ve seen is, believe it or not, a low coolant
level. On the 6 cyl’s the coolant sensor is in the absolute highest point
of the cooling system. A low level will leave the sensor hanging in air until
things warm enough for the coolant to expand and reach the sensor.

an out of spec sensor could also cause this, as can a really whacked air
temp sensor.

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 1996 01:47:01 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S transmission

Once again it is leaking, and I suspect the converter is going out again in
that on cold starts (not really cold, this is Arizona) in all gears it acts
like I am in neutral. After a few minutes warm up it seems to work okay, but
ocassionaly seems to slip out of and into gear when cruising.

The cold start box full of neutrals is usually caused by internal fluid
leakage. Accumulators draing down, or the pump, or… as simple as the
filter falling off.

My question is: Would I be better off to buy a rebuilt transmission on an
exchange basis, rather than rebuilding this one again? Normally I prefer to
have my parts rebuilt because I know their history. In this case it seems
unlikely that any exchange transmission would have such high milage on it.

You’ll prbably feel more comfortable starting with a different core, but …

There is no reason a 400 can not be rebuilt to as new condition. On
key part of this is using the highest quality parts possible. There is a lot
of cheap junk out there mascerading as rebuild kits.

Second question: Would an off the shelf GM-4000 transmission be an exact
replacement. Or, did Jaguar make some modifications to this transmission?

The shift point tuning for a 6500 rpm Jag V-12 is slightly different than
a 454 Chevy 1-ton pickup. Oh, and the case is different. The bellhousing,
an intregal part of the case, is cast to mate to the V-12.

when rebulding a 400, make sure all parts (governor, valve body, modulator,
torque convertor) are to Jag specs.

Last question: As long as I am making this change, is there a better
transmission I should consider?

Not one that would fit easily. The only automotive automatic I consider
stronger than the 400 is the Ford C-6.

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Well, I do have this brand new 400 over in that there crate… :>

Michael Minglin

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

From: Steve Ford fordsj@ozemail.com
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 1996 20:33:24 -0800
Subject: XJC 4.2: Clearer Origins

Thanks Les Hughes for the great information about the previous life of my XJC.

I am at best an irregular reader of “jag-lovers” and have only read your reply today,
thats why I have not gotten back to you sooner.

The description of Andrew Whyte’s dissatisfaction with BL’s XJC and his attempt to
create a better looking XJC made fascinating reading. Where can I find out more - any
books available on the subject?

I am a subsciber to your magazine “Australian Jaguar” and would be happy to send a
picture of my Jag and what I know of its history.
Your reply did not specifically state that the identifier numbers on my car match those
of Andrew Whyte’s. Can you confirm this.

Again thanks for the information.

Steve Ford
Wollongong, NSW, Australia

From: tony goodall tony@goodall.u-net.com
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 1996 11:51:59 +0000
Subject: XJ40 - what oil to use (general too)

XJ40 (3.6) 1989 - what oil to use

I would like to know how much oil to expect to consume (just clocked 126,000
miles)
I live in England, so it’s a little cold now. I commute 90 miles every day,
at 85mph

should I use semi-synthetic, thick, or what???

thanks

tony

Dr. A. Goodall       http://www.u-net.com/~goodall/

From: hached01@bh.bbc.co.uk (Dieter Hachenberg)
Date: 23 Nov 96 12:20:20 GMT
Subject: 4.2 with stutter

'86 SIII Sov, 4.2. When you apply throttle, the first cm or so of
pressing down on the pedal makes no difference, then after that the car
picks up. Any ideas, the timings OK, the plugs, filters and fluids are
all new. The exhaust is blowing a bit at the down-pipe, making a nasty
rasping noise, but should that affect my pick-up on applying the gas?

Anyone had this and solved it?

Dieter Hachenberg

From: RDIAZ@maila.harris.com (RDIAZ)
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 1996 09:53:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Best XJ 40 Service Manual

 I recently purchased the XJ40 manual from Bookspeed.  It's not as 
 complete as a Haines manual (i.e. for SIII) but it's the only one 
 I've been able to find for XJ40s.  Unfortunately Haines doesn't 
 publish one for XJ40s.

 Ricardo Diaz
 Melbourne, Florida, USA
 rdiaz@harris.com
 <end+forwarded_message>
 ======================================================
 On Fri, 22 Nov 1996 07:46:07, Marshall Hollister-Jones wrote:

 From:  <marshall@mentor.co.nz>
 Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 07:46:07 +1300
 Subject: Best  XJ 40 Service Manual

 I am wanting to purchase and XJ40 service manual. It appears there 
 are a
 variety of these available of different quality.

 I e-mailed Bookspeed with the following answer:

 >>We can supply as follows:
 >>
 >>Jaguar XJ6 (XJ40) Manual 1986-1994. Price L19.95
 >>
 >>+ L3.25 post/packing in UK or 
 >>  L5.95 overseas surface mail
 >>
 >>We accept Visa, Master/Eurocard.

 >>Could you please confirm that this is a genuine Jaguar manual and 
 not a
 >>Haines manual or similar.

 >It is based on the Jaguar New Zealand manual, but is not as
 >comprehensive as the complete Jaguar manual

 Does anybody have any experience with this or recommendations as to 
 which
 one I should get and where to get it?

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 1996 10:47:04 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S transmission

Michael: You seem to have run into people who do not know how to rebuild
a Chev Turbo 400, cause that is all that you have in your Jag. The BIG
difference is the trans case,can only be used in the Jag, but the guts
are off the shelf std GM parts. Also this trans will take all the hop up
mods that can be done to any Turbo 400. I am sorry that you have this
problem,cause I removed a Turbo 400 from my XJ-S with over 150,000 on it
and had never been out of the car.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 1996 10:53:19 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: 4.2 with stutter

Dieter: It sounds like the TPS is bad. But then are you sure that the
movement of the pedal actually moves the the control arm on the
throttle body, or is it just taking up the slack in the cable?
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC29212USA 803 798 3044On
23 Nov 1996, Dieter Hachenberg wrote:

'86 SIII Sov, 4.2. When you apply throttle, the first cm or so of
pressing down on the pedal makes no difference, then after that the car
picks up. Any ideas, the timings OK, the plugs, filters and fluids are
all new. The exhaust is blowing a bit at the down-pipe, making a nasty
rasping noise, but should that affect my pick-up on applying the gas?

Anyone had this and solved it?

Dieter Hachenberg

From: armsco@primenet.com (Michael)
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 1996 09:01:23 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S transmission

At 10:47 AM 11/23/96 -0500, Chad Bolles wrote:

Michael: You seem to have run into people who do not know how to rebuild
a Chev Turbo 400, cause that is all that you have in your Jag. The BIG
difference is the trans case,can only be used in the Jag, but the guts
are off the shelf std GM parts. Also this trans will take all the hop up
mods that can be done to any Turbo 400. I am sorry that you have this
problem,cause I removed a Turbo 400 from my XJ-S with over 150,000 on it
and had never been out of the car.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

Chad

Thanks for your response

From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 1996 09:54:32 -0700
Subject: Re to: leather renovation (Rod Farmer)

Hi to all,

I thought others might be interested in my recent experiences regarding :

Can anyone offer advice on renovatin leather? I have a XJ40 with 160,000 on the
clock. It is a 1988 and has been well loked after mechanialy, howerver the seat
are cream leather going on worn! Any tips on renovation, what type of
cleaner / conditiouner or how can I get back the colour on a solid 19998 car?>

I re-did the interiorof my car (85 XJ-S)this past spring and summer. This
included the leather as well as the headliner and the woodwork (still
working on that one). The leather on the front seats was cracked and split
in several places. The leather on the back seats was dry and the “dye” had
began to wear off showing patches of the leather itself. The trim leather
(door psnels and arm rests, front and back) had became faded and in places
grimmy.

The front seats were too far gone and the solution was a no-brainer :
ordered a leather kit and replaced them outright (fairly easy job but time
and patience consuming) cost for the new covers, including headrests, $600
for both. The only thing I should have done differently was to also replace
the foam bottoms with new ones (additional $150). I looked closely at the
old ones thought they were OK and decided to not replace them. The front
seats came out really good. Would have been better with new foam cushions.
Anyone interested in more details regarding the front seat recovering, send
me a note I’ll be glad to share the experience.

Regarding the rest of the leather…It was in good shape physically (no
tears, cracks or splits), so I decided to re-dye it. First I got leather
cleaner from the Jag dealer. It came in a green bottle with Jag logo and it
is called “Jaguar Lether Cleaner” (JLM-9869); cost $5.00. This turned out
to be the greatest thing since sliced bread!. You apply it by rubbing very
small amounts of the stuff onto the leather with a damp sponge (full
instructins come on the back; I followed them to the letter). After I got
through cleaning the leather I seriusly wondered whether I wouldneed to do
anything else. However,the wear patches had not gone away (I hadn’t
expected that they would) so re-dyeing was in order.

I got the dye from Bill Hirsch Automotive (800-828-2062; NJ 210-642-2404);
they carry genuine Connolly dye (the can comes labeled by Connolly); cost is
about $55 for a pint can, including shipping. For my car it took two pint
cans to do all of the leather in the car, except for the front seats. I
still have some left over and could have done the front seats also. The
“dye” is actually a spray-on lacquer paint of the right color. I applied it
using the disposable spray-painters that you can buy at hardware stores for
about $8.00 plus $2-3 for the replacement cylinders. By the way, Hirsch
also sells the dye in spray cans for an upcharge of $5.00. The dye resulted
in an almost perfect match with the newly recovered front seats and I am
very pleased with the outcome.

The dyeing proces is fairly simple. After I cleaned the leather as
described above, I wiped it down with a rag soaked in lacquer thinner and
let it dry for a couple of days. I sprayed all the pieces in one day. Each
piece was sprayed with 5-6 very light coats of the dye. The dye is used
straight out of the can and is not diluted with thinner. I let each coat
dry while I sprayed the remaining pieces. I was aided in this by the fact
that I live in Phoenix and the weather here was dry and warm. In a cold,
wet climate you may need to provide some additonal drying time. The trick
is to get the coats on very light so you don’t have runs or drips. After
the last coat I let all of the pieces to dry in my garage for a period of
about a week before I put them back in the car. At the end of that period
the dye was definetly dry. However it did have a residual “tacky” feel to
it. It took about an additional two weeks of Phoenix weather to make the
tackyness disappear. I believe that this is due to the dye forming a
“crust” right on the surface, but the underlying dye below it still has the
thinner in it and releases it more slowly.

I am extremely pleased with how it came out. I fel is easy to do but
requires patience and an eye for detail. You should also make sure that you
give yourself enough time to do it. Again, if anyone is interested in more
details regarding the proces send me a note I’ll be glad to share the
experience. Good luck,

Rob W-M
85 XJ-S

From: jason philbrook jp@c6h22o11.midcoast.com
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 1996 12:09:57 -0500 (EST)
Subject: XJS Photos Online

Jag Lovers;

I’ve created some photographs of my red 1989 XJS V12. Fourteen images are
represented here.

I got out my camera and took a variety of images representing what I like
about the design of the XJS. In this gallery, you’ll find classic shapes,
lines, reflections, and rich colors.

I just finished coding the pages this morning.

If you are interested in the XJS, or have one and admire it, or you like
to gawk at them, visit my pages!

http://www.midcoast.com/~jp/photo/jag/

-Jason

/*
Jason Philbrook | Midcoast Internet Solutions
jp@midcoast.com | Internet Access, LAN, WAN, and Linux
www.midcoast.com/jp/ | Service and Consulting for Midcoast Maine
*/

From: DHarr13177@aol.com
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 1996 12:29:59 -0500
Subject: E type transmission

Straight Six (advertises in Hemmings) sold me new- old- stock splined hubs
and slider synchro assemblies for the trans in my series 1 FHC. The thing
truely shifts like a new transmission now. I can select and engage 1st gear
from 2nd at 40 mph without double clutching
The owner is crotchety but it was worth dealing with him.
This is the second time I have done this trans. The first time I just
replaced bearings and synchro rings . The quality of shifting was not
improved much, if any. Obviously the splined hubs wear and degrade the
synchro action.
The price he charged me was what was marked on the ( original) box from the
1960’s !!! $100 each . What a deal !!!
Doug

From: dkhoward@wave.net (Douglas Howard)
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 1996 11:42:27 -0800
Subject: where do I start?

Okay, my fellow Makers of the Sign of the Paw,

   Greetings from Brookings, Oregon, USA! 
    I need some help from my brother/sister XJ-6 owners and buffs.
   I'm now the proud(?) owner of an '81 Series III XJ-6, having traded a

worn-out '80 Corvette
for it. Despite having been neglected by a previous owner, the J runs
surprisingly well, and
the tranny was recently rebuilt-I have the receipts to prove it. It
has some of the normal
Jag quirks of age: engine leaking oil, rubber pulling away from the
rear window, faded material
on the doors, small rust bubbles under the windows, etc, etc, etc.

   "Puddy Tat" despite her woes impressed with her "HEART" and that

awesome XJ ride-incredible!
She’s my hobby car, for slow refurbishing and modernizing-if
practical-over the course of the
next five or six years.

   Now comes the question: where do I start at? I've never refurbished

or rebuilt a car in my life.
My mechanical experience is average: change oil, plugs, keep the
reservoirs filled, etc.

   I've never seen a methodical book or article on doing this. A fellow

Jag buff suggested that I
start at the bottom, checking and replacing my brake pads, shocks,
replacing the rubber bushings
in the suspension, and so forth. This struck me as a good start…but
where from there? What
am I looking for, and in what direction?

   Incidentally, I'm not adverse to replacing a faulty component with a

more modern or improved one,
regardless of the source. “Original” isn’t necessarily part of my
lexicon.

   My friends, I await your advice, comments and suggestions...and thank

you!

                                                 Warmest Regards to All,
                                                         Doug Howard

From: Jeremy Good jeremy@Linux.dc.usconnect.com
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 1996 15:46:46 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Jag shopping

Hello,

I'm new to the Jaguar scene, but have been wanting an XJ??C for a

while now. I looked at a 12C last week which looks solid, but needs a
little work here and there plus a paint job (ouch). I like the car alot,
but am wondering if I’m about to jump into a black hole as far as
repairs, etc. I will naturally have a competent mechanic inspect the car,
but had a few questions for the XJ series II owners out there:

- Can these cars be driven daily and hold up ok?
- Is the V12 more trouble than it’s worth? (I’ve seen lots of Chevy conver’s)
- What things should I make sure are done/checked before I buy?
- Is the fuel injection or the four(!) carbs more desirable for
  practicality/driveability on the V12?
- Did Jag get a volume discount on copper wire? These cars have the most
  wiring I’ve ever seen in one automobile.
- Any other suggestions/warnings…

If I buy it, I’d like to put on wire wheels… Is this a reasonable
upgrade as far as cost and maintenance? Also, I hate automatic
transmissions, so I would likely try to install a manual when the auto
burns out (I hear it doesn’t take long). Anyone know what fits? Or has done
this?

			Thanks in advance,
			Jeremy

From: “Stuart Johnson” sjohnson@interalpha.co.uk
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 1996 21:44:12 -0000
Subject: XJ40 Trip computer.

My trip computer intermittently fails; notably when the car has warmed
up. Is seems as if it’s loosing the road speed input because ‘Inst
fuel’ drops to zero, and ‘Dist Trav’ no longer updates.

Dry joint or cracked board I guess, but where should I look first?

Stuart.

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 1996 17:12:46 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Best XJ 40 Service Manual

Ricardo: I can supply you a real Jaguar repair manual for the XJ-40
cars,prices as follows:
1988-89 around $230. 5 volumes
90-92 around $450. 8 volumes
93-94 around $350.
95 around $360. covers XJ-6 & 12
96 ammendment $20 XJ-6 & 12
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 1996 17:20:59 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: where do I start?

Doug: Though I agree that a good place to start is with the brakes,cause
if you can’t stop it you are in deep poop. Where I differ is, if you let
those little bubbles around the front and rear glass stay there, guess
what??? your car is rusting away,in the end you may have brakes, but to
stop what?
Unless you want to drive this car every day,my suggestion would be to
find a VERY GOOD body man,who knows how to replace metal and get him to
remove the rusted metal and replace it NOW. Later you will still have a
car to work on.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: Derek Hibbs Derek.Hibbs@wizardis.com.au
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 1996 09:55:50 +1100
Subject: Re: gasoline fumes in cabin of XJS

Fondrie/Gleboff wrote:

If this has been covered recently I apologise. Are there any particular
places I should look as possible sources of a strong gasoline smell in
the cabin of our 83 XJS? (Seems to be coming from the rear of the car)
The smell has been there for years, but it has gotten stronger recently.
This isn’t the kind of thing our (good) mechanic seems to be interested
in tracking down. Don’t want to explode or anything. Any ideas will be
appreciated.

The answer for my fuel smell was simple, the fuel cap overflow pipe was
disconnected and any spillage during refuelling was draining directly into
the boot/trunk instead of onto the ground. Reconnected the overflow pipe and
no smells (I also take more care when refuelling).

Regards,
Derek Hibbs

77 BRG XJ-S, 5.3lt EFI V12
“Even when it’s broken, my XJ-S still looks great sitting in the garage.”

Wizard Information Services Pty Ltd	Canberra, Australia
Ph:    61+ 6 2750750			Fax:   61+ 6 2750777
Email: Derek.Hibbs@wizardis.com.au	WWW:   http://wizardis.com.au/~derekh
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Michael C. Clement" <74131.2201@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 23 Nov 96 20:15:44 EST
Subject: Joining list/club

Presently, my wife and I have 2 jags. We have a 1990-XJ6 (which I guess is a
XJ40). We also have a 1991 XJS. the '90 has about 90,000 mikes and the S about
50,000. We both deeply love the cars in just about allphases of driving.
Although, I prefer the S on cith streets and the 6 on the highway. The 4-speed
overdrive makes all the difference to me.

The 6 is reaching a stage where it is beginning to require more attn that
before. It feels like a lot of nuisance repairs. I have grown to the point where
I don't have as much confidence in the as I once did and wish I still did.
Therefore, I am looking for a really "great" independent mechanic who loves Jags
as much as we do. We live in the Chicago, IL area and have not been able to find
such a person--RECOMMENDATIONS/REFERRALS  WELCOME.

There are 2 "nagging" problems I would like to get fixed: 1) at idle and at
almost 35 miles an hour speed, I get a vibration in the car. It is absent prior
to 35 and goes away almost right after; 2. the lifters are making some noise
(and have been since at least 60,000 miles). I have gotten conflicting advice
about this. I have had it looked at by 5 or 6 mechanics. They all agree it does
not need a valve job-"not loosing compression or burning oil" Yet, I am getting
mixed advice about a valve adjustment. Some say it would help others say this
Jag won't benefit from an adjustment. Welcome feedback!!!

Mike Clement
Oak Park, Il

------------------------------

From: "Michael C. Clement" <74131.2201@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 23 Nov 96 20:22:49 EST
Subject: Copy of: Joining list/club

- ---------- Forwarded Message ----------

From:	Michael C. Clement, 74131,2201
TO:	JAG-LOVERS, INTERNET:JAG-LOVERS@SN.NO
DATE:	11/23/96 7:10 PM

RE:	Copy of: Joining list/club

Presently, my wife and I have 2 jags. We have a 1990-XJ6 (which I guess is a
XJ40). We also have a 1991 XJS. the '90 has about 90,000 mikes and the S about
50,000. We both deeply love the cars in just about allphases of driving.
Although, I prefer the S on cith streets and the 6 on the highway. The 4-speed
overdrive makes all the difference to me.

The 6 is reaching a stage where it is beginning to require more attn that
before. It feels like a lot of nuisance repairs. I have grown to the point where
I don't have as much confidence in the as I once did and wish I still did.
Therefore, I am looking for a really "great" independent mechanic who loves Jags
as much as we do. We live in the Chicago, IL area and have not been able to find
such a person--RECOMMENDATIONS/REFERRALS  WELCOME.

There are 2 "nagging" problems I would like to get fixed: 1) at idle and at
almost 35 miles an hour speed, I get a vibration in the car. It is absent prior
to 35 and goes away almost right after; 2. the lifters are making some noise
(and have been since at least 60,000 miles). I have gotten conflicting advice
about this. I have had it looked at by 5 or 6 mechanics. They all agree it does
not need a valve job-"not loosing compression or burning oil" Yet, I am getting
mixed advice about a valve adjustment. Some say it would help others say this
Jag won't benefit from an adjustment. Welcome feedback!!!

Mike Clement
Oak Park, Il

------------------------------

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #543
********************************

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Subject:   jag-lovers-digest V2 #544
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jag-lovers-digest         Sunday, 24 November 1996      Volume 02 : Number 544

'85 XJ6  headlight problem (some Jag content - how unusual!)
Volunteering myself (Suit of armor at the ready)
I appologise for this idiot.
Re: '85 XJ6  headlight problem (some Jag content - how unusual!)
V12 Tuning
Re: Volunteering myself (Suit of armor at the ready)
Coils and Bosch book
Extrude Hone
Coils and Bosch book
Extrude Hone
Re: Joining list/club
Re: I appologise for this idiot.
XJ6 tracking
XJS  Auto shift points, wheels, bonnet mascot
Mechanic Referal:Dallas
RE: gasoline fumes in cabin of XJS
New Subscriber
Re:E-type newsgroup
Re: XJ6 tracking
Re: Jaguar S-type

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Gregory W. Price" <gprice@mack.rt66.com>
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 1996 19:36:00 -0700
Subject: '85 XJ6  headlight problem (some Jag content - how unusual!)

Hi folks!

While searching around for a slow electrical drain on my battery
(shorted interior lights inside the driver's door), I was removing 
the fuses one by one until I found the offending circuit.  Sometime 
during this process my headlights quit working.  When I try to turn 
on the headlights, I hear a 'thunk' (yeah, it's an industry term - 
guess the industry) from under the hood.  Initially, only one 
headlight came on, and only on low beam.  Now, only the parking lights 
come on.  I'd like to be armed with a few suggestions before I go 
outside in the snow and futz with it.  Anyone have any ideas?

TIA,

Greg

------------------------------

From: "Gregory W. Price" <gprice@mack.rt66.com>
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 1996 19:50:43 -0700
Subject: Volunteering myself (Suit of armor at the ready)

I ask you...

How many times have we seen the same old questions come up 
time and again? Too often.   It's understandable, given that going through 
the old archives to find the answer to your burning question is a royal pain.  
I'm volunteering to help with a solution, unless someone is already doing 
this.

I would like to compile a continuing list of questions and their 
responses for the use of the fine folks on this list.  This list 
would be available at a website, either Jagweb or my own.  My initial 
thought would be to create a master web page listing the questions by 
category, with the questions linked to the answers which would be 
contained in another file.  

The questions I have are:

1.  Is anyone already doing this, or is this already available in 
some form?

2.  Would this be useful?

3.  Is their a better way than just hypertext-based web pages?  (I'm thinking 
maybe a searchable database, but I don't know how to create one on the web)

4.  Anyone willing to help with the more technical web-based aspects?

Any thoughts?

Greg Price
'85 VdP

------------------------------

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 21:26:13 -0600
Subject: I appologise for this idiot.

Folks, I am sorry about this Brian lunatic, I had tried a private discussion
with him and he keeps bringing it to the list.  He doesnt belong on the list
anyway as he does not have a Jag nor does he desire one.  He just wants to
scream at me.  He just got on to send messages to me because I cut him off
at my address.

Does anyone have any ideas?

I hope he is reading the list, because I am going to stay off until he gets
tired of yelling.  Maybe if he knows I wont see his ravings he will go away.

This is when we need a HARM missle that runs down the internet to s given
address.....#8-)

- --
                                                            Jim

  "Better an outlaw than not free."
                         Nance O'Neil   

------------------------------

From: Randy Wilson <randy@taylor.infi.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 1996 23:40:48 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: '85 XJ6  headlight problem (some Jag content - how unusual!)

>
>While searching around for a slow electrical drain on my battery
>(shorted interior lights inside the driver's door), I was removing 
>the fuses one by one until I found the offending circuit.  Sometime 
>during this process my headlights quit working.  When I try to turn 
>on the headlights, I hear a 'thunk' (yeah, it's an industry term - 
>guess the industry) from under the hood.  Initially, only one 
>headlight came on, and only on low beam.  Now, only the parking lights 
>come on.  I'd like to be armed with a few suggestions before I go 
>outside in the snow and futz with it.  Anyone have any ideas?

The problem will most likely be dirty/loose fuses in the headlight box,
the one under the hood on the lefthand side. Pull the fuses, clean and
spring in the contacts, clean (or replace) the fuses, and reassemble.
Four of those fuses are headlights, but do all of them.

   Randy K. Wilson
     randy@taylor.infi.net

------------------------------

From: "B. Askew" <askewb@global.co.za>
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 1996 07:33:50 -0200 (GMT)
Subject: V12 Tuning

Greetings from South Africa

Question on V12 tuning. There was a reference in a recent communication
from someone who had installed the UK company AJ6's tuning mods. Needless
to say I lost it. They offer a 3 stage proess starting with a retuned ECU.
Could anyone who has experience of these mods let me know the results. Now
the cat is back on the road with a new output shaft bearing (@ $80 instead
of quoted $1 200 - thanks Hal and other respondents) I have the recurring
itch to "improve" the breed.

Regards Brian

------------------------------

From: "B. Askew" <askewb@global.co.za>
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 1996 07:33:48 -0200 (GMT)
Subject: Re: Volunteering myself (Suit of armor at the ready)

Dear Greg

>I'm volunteering to help with a solution, unless someone is already doing 
>this.
>
>I would like to compile a continuing list of questions and their 
>responses for the use of the fine folks on this list.  
>
>The questions I have are:

>
>2.  Would this be useful?
>
Yes!!!
>
>4.  Anyone willing to help with the more technical web-based aspects?
>
I will try to draft my son, Bjorn if you need help

Best of luck   Regards Brian

------------------------------

From: David J Shield <David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com>
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 96 00:22:00 PST
Subject: Coils and Bosch book

     All,

     If you're sick of the coil polarity thread, skip over this.

     A great reference book is the Bosch Electric/Aelectronic Systems 
     book, ISBN 1-56091-596-X.  I had to order mine, since it's nbot 
     on the best-seller list at my bookstore.

     Page 143 discusses the required energy for ignition, in joules.  
     Worth reading.  Page 146 notes that the voltage across the spark 
     gap at ignition is about 400V.  The coil of course is capable of 
     generating much higher voltages, and the voltage rises way up 
     until ignition occurs (~30uS), after which the physical distance 
     of the gap in the compressed atmosphere of fuel/air clamps the 
     voltage to the 400 or so quoted above, for the rest of the spark 
     (~1 or 2mS).  Pages 180 and 181 detail the spark period with a 
     time/voltage plot.  Neither of these were points of controversy 
     but for those wanting to understand this well, these are 
     important points.

     Page 143 also mentions the momentary high voltages seen at the 
     primary.  I think there was a reference to this in the thread 
     about coil polarity, citing this as evidence of poor design.  
     It's just a side effect of energizing inductors - you will have a 
     large kick-back voltage on the primary as the magnetic field 
     collapses.  It's unavoidable, so the ignition-system designer 
     designs the ignition system with this in mind.  Not a problem.

     Page 148 is the only reference I find to the importance of the 
     center electrode being negative w/respect to the outer one.

     As for DLI (DistributorLess Ignition), the two plugs that are 
     energized are *not* wired in series with each other.  The coil 
     has one primary and two secondaries.  Each secondary feeds one 
     spark plug in the usual manner.

     I know the origin of the thread was not about this stuff, it was 
     just a question about the right way to hook up the coil.  I'm 
     just stomping out some bad data that popped up along the way.  
     For those who weren't interested in this, you can continue 
     reading from here.

     David
     couple of jags

------------------------------

From: "The Honjos" <fm7m-hnjy@asahi-net.or.jp>
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 1996 18:20:27 +0900
Subject: Extrude Hone

Have any participant in this mailing list heard of or have experience 
with Extrude Hone?  It's a process where viscous goo saturated with 
abrasives is pushed through e.g. intake and/or exhaust manifolds with 
the help of a hydraulic press.  The process results in mirror 
finished orifices, which according to its proponents improves power 
and CO emission of classic cars.  

For those of you with experience,  are the results as good as what 
the proponents of the process claim?  

Regards
Makoto Honjo
Phone/Fax +81-3-3473-1848

------------------------------

From: David J Shield <David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com>
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 96 01:09:00 PST
Subject: Coils and Bosch book

I wrote:

     >As for DLI (DistributorLess Ignition), the two plugs that are 
     >energized are *not* wired in series with each other.  The coil 
     >has one primary and two secondaries.  Each secondary feeds one 
     >spark plug in the usual manner.

     Further reading in the Bosch book tells me that I probably had this wrong, 
     and Randy had it right.  One reference had me convinced of the way I wrote 
     earlier...

     David

------------------------------

From: "The Honjos" <fm7m-hnjy@asahi-net.or.jp>
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 1996 18:20:27 +0900
Subject: Extrude Hone

Have any participant in this mailing list heard of or have experience 
with Extrude Hone?  It's a process where viscous goo saturated with 
abrasives is pushed through e.g. intake and/or exhaust manifolds with 
the help of a hydraulic press.  The process results in mirror 
finished orifices, which according to its proponents improves power 
and CO emission of classic cars.  

For those of you with experience,  are the results as good as what 
the proponents of the process claim?  

Regards
Makoto Honjo
Phone/Fax +81-3-3473-1848

------------------------------

From: Victor Naumann <jagdoc@erols.com>
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 1996 09:38:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Joining list/club

Michael C. Clement wrote:

> 
> There are 2 "nagging" problems I would like to get fixed: 1) at idle and at
> almost 35 miles an hour speed, I get a vibration in the car.  Yet, I am getting
> mixed advice about a valve adjustment. 
Mike, the vibration at idle is probably caused by your engine mounts,
Jaguar has some later mounts that are softer and eliminate most
vibration at idle.Vibration at set speed of around35 mph is usually
caused by driveshaft although excessivepinion runout can also produce.
Has it been there for a long time ar just recently?
Tapping from engine is almost certainly worn valve shims. A valve adj.
will make the car run quieter and smoother and may lessen you idle
vibration. Adj.can be done without head removal, but if the top of the
valve stem has started to musroom where it hits the shim you will need
to remove the head and replace some valves. If you have a valve job done
make sure that theyinstall valve seals on all valves.
Hope this helps, Vic

------------------------------

From: Bert.Willing@lc.dmx.epfl.ch (Bert Willing)
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 1996 17:49:21 +0100
Subject: Re: I appologise for this idiot.

Never mind, we'll last longer than him.

maybe he would appreciate to receive say 500 individual mails, sent by every jag-lover, the next time he shows up  :-)

Ciao 

Bert

>Folks, I am sorry about this Brian lunatic, I had tried a private discussion
>with him and he keeps bringing it to the list.  He doesnt belong on the list
>anyway as he does not have a Jag nor does he desire one.  He just wants to
>scream at me.  He just got on to send messages to me because I cut him off
>at my address.
>
>Does anyone have any ideas?
>
>I hope he is reading the list, because I am going to stay off until he gets
>tired of yelling.  Maybe if he knows I wont see his ravings he will go away.
>
>This is when we need a HARM missle that runs down the internet to s given
>address.....#8-)
>

- --------------------------------------------------------------------
Bert Willing   '84 XJ6 4.2L
Laboratoire de Ceramique - Departement des Materiaux
Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (EPFL), MX-Ecublens, CH-1015 Lausanne
Fone : (+41 21) 693 29 44
Phax :                      58 10
email: Bert.Willing@lc.dmx.epfl.ch
- ------------------------- Eudora 2.1.1 ------------------------------

------------------------------

From: ETONIV@aol.com
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 1996 15:14:24 -0500
Subject: XJ6 tracking

I have a '94 XJ6 bought as lease return.  THe car needed alignment, before
purchased this was taken care of but was more complicated than a simple
alignment, shims had to be installed. While the car tracks generally well, it
does not track smoothly on eneven roads.  it seems to lerch right or left a
bit,  no sign of irregular tire wear but I'm concerned this may be a sign of
bigger undercarriage trouble.  Anybodygot any thoughts?
Same car also has slight pull to left when breaking gradually at speeds of
15-30 mph.  Car is going to shop next week for all above and I'm concerned
this may be serious stuff.

------------------------------

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 1996 14:27:06 -0600
Subject: XJS  Auto shift points, wheels, bonnet mascot

1)  I finaly have the kickdown switch operating.  Wow, this V12 is a real
wuus until it hits 30MPH, even in low gear.  It shifts from 1st to 2nd at
5000RPM/50MPH and then it gets going.

I find if I nail it when at 40MPH and already in 3rd it will downshift one
gear into 2nd, then goes like a rocket sled! 

Is there a way to make the thing upshift at 35 when going from a dead stop
without lifting?  In other words can the shift point be lowered a bit from
5000RPM?

2)  The wheels I have on my XJ6 are not stock but, look like what came out
on the 89 XJS.  They are a fake spoke wheel.  In looking through some old
magazines I saw the same wheel as early as 1984 on the Lister XJS.  I am
wondering where/when they first appeared and are they Jag made?  I plan on
putting them onto my '85 XJS if they will be acceptable for Concorse.

3)  The Jag emblem on the bonnet of my '85 looks like tarnished silver.
Real dark and hard to recognise.  Is this what it looked like to begin with
or does it need cleaning.  If it needs cleaning, how?

- --
                                                            Jim

  "Better an outlaw than not free."
                         Nance O'Neil   

------------------------------

From: "Kevin P. Campbell" <kckckc@qni.com>
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 1996 14:42:33 -0800
Subject: Mechanic Referal:Dallas

Hi Ladies and Gents,
I find myself moving from Kansas City to Addison (Dallas), Texas in the
next few weeks and am wondering if any of our esteemed Jag-Lovers would
have the name of a reliable, caring, Jag man (or woman)to care for my 85
XJ-6 when calmer heads would prevail.(.....when I'm so *&#$^#% flustered
and need help fixing the darn thing!)

We all have this LOVE-hate relationship don't we!

Any leads would be greatly appreciated. 

Kev  

RE: or E-Mail ....Tanks

kckckc@qni.com

------------------------------

From: John Setters <john_setters@eagle.co.nz>
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 09:50:12 +1300
Subject: RE: gasoline fumes in cabin of XJS

<snip>
Yes it has been covered a number of times, but for your safety, let's do
it again.  The most likely source of the smell is from a pinhole leak in
the bottom of the fuel tank
<snip>

Too true we should all take this very seriously.
Is there some indicator dye or some such way of
identifying the pin hole where a small leak or seepage may be
coming from ?
What I mean is some no volatile magnaflux type of method that
would show up any leakage which may be barely a vapour trail
in its infancy but could devolop into a full scale leak.
It would be nice to be able to confirm that everything is OK
without having to wait for the big bang theory to exhibit itself.
Regards JKS-XJS
******************************************************
John Setters
Desktop Mapping Consultant
Eagle Technology Group Ltd
110 Symonds Street
Auckland
New Zealand
Ph +64 +09 300 3400  Fax +64 +09 300 3420
Email john_setters@eagle.co.nz
http://www.eagle.co.nz
******************************************************
>

------------------------------

From: KupyKool@aol.com
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 1996 16:32:39 -0500
Subject: New Subscriber

Well, I've been browsing through the old messages to bring myself up to speed
before asking
inane questions that have already been answered. But there is so much
activity here, I could
only get through the beginning of October before my head exploded. (I'm
feeling better now.)
So I apologize if I bore anyone with repetition. From reading these pages and
the information
in this site, I've learned the answers to a number of my questions already.
Many thanks to the
developers of this site and the generosity of its users.

I bought my 1988 XJ6 about a month ago, over the objections of everyone but
the PO, who
seemed quite relieved. I'm not surprised -- his repair records show about
$1,000(US) in
expenses every two weeks or so. Perhaps this should have been a warning, but
what can I
say? I've wanted a Jaguar for years. I even drove a 1981 Honda Accord (python
green) a few
years back because the headlights reminded me of the Jag. I thought it looked
pretty good
parked next to a co-worker's Rolls Royce.

I never bothered to look in the paper for used Jags, because I just assumed
they would be out
of my price range, which includes zero. Imagine my surprise to find that,
here in Baltimore, a
1986-1988 XJ6 goes for under $7,500, sometimes much less. I looked at a 1986,
but decided
against it when I found out how much the paint job would cost. Pretty car,
though. The 1988
doesn't have the shapely body of the 1986, but it does have a certain serene
elegance (round
headlights, not square) which has definitely grown on me. Perhaps that's
because I am now an
excruciatingly mature thirty year old, and have learned to appreciate
qualities other than good
looks. By the way, thanks to Mike Cogswell for taking issue (10/3/96) with
the "babe factor."
While it has not escaped my attention that some women find men who drive
Jaguars more
attractive than those who drive Volvos (my previous car), is that any reason
to choose an
automobile? I would rather have a pleasing balance of good qualities than
something (or
someone) with only one thing going for it.

A warning to prospective Jaguar owners: in my lust (yes, lust) for this car,
I overlooked many
flaws which would have to be corrected later. I made the mistake of taking it
for inspection
to a regular mechanic, who didn't know Jags as well as he said. He did,
however, advise me
that most Jaguar owners have a Mercedes parked next to it in the driveway,
for two reasons. I
should have known better than to ask why. He said, firstly, you'll need
something to drive.
Second, if you can afford the repairs on the Jaguar, you can afford a
Mercedes. Subsequently,
I had the car inspected by the Jaguar dealer, who found a considerable number
of
maintenance problems that were overlooked by the first mechanic. It was too
late for me,
because I had already bought the car based on the original report. But I
strongly recommend
having the car looked over by a serious Jaguar mechanic (i.e. the dealer)
before you agree to
buy. Even if you go through with the deal, at least you'll know what you are
getting yourself
into.

Of course, that doesn't mean I want the dealer performing actual repairs on
my car. Indeed,
while their expertise in maintenance is unassailable, their prices and
service on the little work
I've had done is not. I hope someone can give me advice on the remaining
repairs so that I
can do them myself:

1. Bulb Fail Modules: I read with interest the discussion about bulb fail
warnings, as mine is
almost always lit. Unfortunately, the archives only go up to 10/10/96 so far,
so I don't know
if this issue was later resolved. In my case, the left rear turn signal stops
working when the
brake is applied. Also, with both signals, the clicking noise sometimes
speeds up. I am fairly
certain the problem is in the bulb fail module itself, because I switched the
left and right
modules, and the problem is now in the right turn signal. I paid $100 to a
local junkyard for
two 1989 modules. One doesn't work at all; the other behaves the same as my
original one. I
read Steve Coleman's advice about soldering the broken joints on the circuit
board, but I don't
see any damage there (unless I don't know what to look for). Should I keep
looking for a
replacement module, or is it better to buy this new? Can the original be
repaired?

2. Rear Shocks: I'll have to take your word for it about the smooth ride.
Mine is more like the
pogo-stick metaphor someone used. It also sounds like there's a dead body
bouncing around
in the trunk. Should I bite the bullet and spend the big bucks for the kit
from Jaguar, or is
there a better alternative? Can a, let's face it, unskilled mechanic like me
perform this repair?
The most complicated thing I've fixed myself so far was the door handle.

3. Low Brake Pressure: This warning comes on when I start the car and lasts
for a few
seconds. I already had the dealer replace the brake accumulator, which helped
somewhat with
a very hard brake pedal. It's still considerably harder than my 1987 Volvo
240GL was. Is this
normal?

4. ABS Failure: This indicator comes on frequently. I noticed that at least
one of the speed
sensors is missing. I wonder if I should attempt to restore this system to
operating condition,
or just go the Click and Clack electrical tape repair route. How hard is it
to bypass the system
and the warning?

5. RPM Bounce: Lately, when I start the car cold, the RPMs bounce sharply
between 500-750
for about ten seconds. Should I be concerned?

6. Oil Pressure Bounce: This indicator bounces around a lot. It's often in
the red. A concern?

7. Security System: All right. What terrible thing will really happen to the
electrical system if
I install a security system myself?

8. The Crunch: Whenever I back up, I hear a sort of grinding crunch that
sounds to me as if
it is coming from under the center of the vehicle. Should I be worried?

Other than that, the car is fine! Any help is greatly appreciated.

------------------------------

From: IlanoS@aol.com
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 1996 16:56:23 -0500
Subject: Re:E-type newsgroup

I saw someone mention an E-type newsgroup. Would appreciate any subscription
info. Thanks. Ilan

------------------------------

From: Victor Naumann <jagdoc@erols.com>
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 1996 17:00:27 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ6 tracking

ETONIV@aol.com wrote:
> 
> I have a '94 XJ6 bought as lease return.  THe car needed alignment, before
> purchased this was taken care of but was more complicated than a simple
> alignment, shims had to be installed. 
Are you speaking of shims at the upper ball joint? These shims are
generally just moved from front to back and vice-versa. It shouldn't
need additional shims unless something is bent. generally all these cars
need is a toe adjustment unless it has been in an accident.
Regards, Vic

------------------------------

From: Egil Kvaleberg <egilk@sn.no>
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 1996 17:59:53 GMT
Subject: Re: Jaguar S-type

On Thu, 21 Nov 1996, Stein Hovind wrote:

> After the aux carb turns off at around 35 degrees, and before 
> reaching 75 degrees, the engine har a tendency to stall when idling.

Seems like it is set up pretty correctly ;-)

What you *can* do, is to have the carbs adjusted to a slightly richer
mixture.  This will increase the CO reading, increase the fuel consumption
and even cause more carbon deposits - so we're definitely speaking of a
compromise.

If the mixture is so rich that the engine never hesitates or stumbles 
when the aux carb cuts, then it is definitely over-rich.

The idea of having an aux carb with on/off mode with nothing inbetween is 
a pretty crude one, to put it mildly.

Does anyone know how much work/cost is involved to convert to standard SU 
type manual choke?

Egil
- -- 
Email: egilk@sn.no  Voice: +47 22523641, 92022780 Fax: +47 22525899
Snail: Egil Kvaleberg, Husebybakken 14A, 0379 Oslo, Norway
URL:   http://home.sn.no/home/egilk/

------------------------------

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jag-lovers-digest         Monday, 25 November 1996      Volume 02 : Number 545

Re: New Subscriber
Re: XJ40: Rear Diff Whine
Under-hood Insulation
XJ12 Reliability
introduction of a new member
Digest Sorting
FAQ-index
RE: Volunteering myself (Suit of armor at the ready)
Re: XJ-S transmission
Crunched 8!
Motorola Alternators
RE: Volunteering myself (Suit of armor at the ready)
XJ6S3, Radio Antenna

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Robert Johnson, D.Sc." <bjomejag@sover.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 1996 18:08:41 -0400
Subject: Re: New Subscriber

KupyKool@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In my case, the left rear turn signal stops
> working when the
> brake is applied. Also, with both signals, the clicking noise sometimes
> speeds up.

The faster rate of flash is caused by a lamp fault indication. Any 
lamp failure module will drive the dash indicator to the higher rate. 
I would guess the problem is a high resistance in some bulb or bulb 
circuit. 

 I
> read Steve Coleman's advice about soldering the broken joints on the circuit
> board, but I don't
> see any damage there (unless I don't know what to look for). Should I keep
> looking for a
> replacement module, or is it better to buy this new? Can the original be
> repaired?
> 
> 2. Rear Shocks: I'll have to take your word for it about the smooth ride.
> Mine is more like the
> pogo-stick metaphor  Can a, let's face it, unskilled mechanic like me
> perform this repair?

Replacing the load leveling units is not a bad job. I have had good 
luck with OEM parts.

> 
> 4. ABS Failure: This indicator comes on frequently. I noticed that at least
> one of the speed
> sensors is missing.

Certainly, without the sensor the system will read a failure. 
Replacing sensors is easy but quite expensive. 
> 

> 6. Oil Pressure Bounce: This indicator bounces around a lot. It's often in
> the red. A concern? 

This would be a concern if real. I think it is most likely the 
connector from the ECU. It could possibly be the pressure sender, but 
I have seen the problem more often the voltage fed the sender.
> 
> 7. Security System: All right. What terrible thing will really happen to the
> electrical system if
> I install a security system myself?

Nothing should happen if you follow installation instructions.
> 
> 8. The Crunch: Whenever I back up, I hear a sort of grinding crunch that
> sounds to me as if
> it is coming from under the center of the vehicle. Should I be worried?

Better check this out. Possibly it is a piece of junk that rubs on the 
drive shaft when in reverse.
> 
> Other than that, the car is fine! Any help is greatly appreciated.

Welcome! Hope this helps,
Bob Johnson 
Brattleboro, Vt.
XJ40, XJ50, XJ12L

------------------------------

From: Jan Wikstroem <Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au>
Date: 25 Nov 96  9:27:33 
Subject: Re: XJ40: Rear Diff Whine

Jim Cantrell<snip>: Dana differentials are known to have this same type of 
behavior.
- ---------------------
Hmmm... Back in 1953 or thereabouts, the makers of the diff for the Rover 
(Spicer?) realised that the reason for the fatigue fracture and general working 
loose was that only the tightening force on the bolts held the crown wheel, so 
torque fluctuations were causing minute movement with attendant flexing of the 
bolts. The cure was to apply two plain hardened locating pins (around 3/8in, I 
think). My diff was modified and gave no further trouble.

- -Jan

------------------------------

From: "Francis E. Halaburt" <geneh@frontier.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 1996 17:11:21 -0700
Subject: Under-hood Insulation

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------------------------------

From: "Rennick, Kim (AS01)" <KRennick@p03.as01.honeywell.com.au>
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 96 12:02:00 EST
Subject: XJ12 Reliability

Alan,
You wrote:
>Many thanks to all who responded to my request for info. on the long term
>reliability of XJ12s.  Apart from fuel costs and probably, though I haven't 

>checked, insurance and registration costs, the XJ12s seem to have a lot
>going for them and not the least is that they retained the classic XJ6
>Series 3 body shape until 1989.  Alan.

As an XJ40 owner, I too have been tempted by the thought of a late model S3 
V12.  (Actually, in Australia, they sold that combination until 1992, rather 
than '89.)  The combination of that magnificent engine with the lovely body 
is indeed hard to match.

I have seen a few very nice examples (in Sydney) - all either '91 or '92. 
 Lovely to drive, lovely to look at - very tempting!

One is very aware, however that despite the recent (cf my '88 Sovereign) 
manufacture, it really is a much **older** car, from a design point of view. 
 Space utilisation (in the cabin & boot) is very poor, the driving position 
is rather vintage in feel, and the whole car lacks the 'modern' engineering 
approach that is so evident in the '40 (even if it didn't always work quite 
as intended!).  All the car's systems (brakes, electrical, aircon, controls, 
etc) are obviously from a much earlier era.  (After all, the S1 was released 
in '68, and that was very much an evolutionary development of the S-Type/Mk2 
models.) That fact affects (negatively, in my opinion) their 
maintainability, durability and functionality.

So, its a dilemma!  But, I am still tempted...  I would be very interested 
to hear what you decide to do.

Regards,

Kim Rennick
'88 Sovereign

------------------------------

From: Grego14424@aol.com
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 1996 20:43:26 -0500
Subject: introduction of a new member

My name is Greg Gangemi and I live in Staten Island, New York.  My current
cars are a 84 XJ 6 with a chevy 350 (I hear the purist grit their teeth) and
a 76 TR 6 with custom fuel injection system (bosch L Jetronic off a 280zx).
  I am looking forward to hearing from  members who have done chevy
conversations (purists, in the immortal words of Rodney King "can't we all
just get along).  I love mine and have put a total of 4,000 miles on it
without a hitch.  One last note,  Bruce Bowling is the main reason I
attempted it and without a kit and I have not regreted it at all.

Greg Gangemi

------------------------------

From: "Rennick, Kim (AS01)" <KRennick@p03.as01.honeywell.com.au>
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 96 12:54:00 EST
Subject: Digest Sorting

Folks,

Did anyone have any reaction to my suggestion of a couple of weeks ago 
regarding sorting the digest alphabetically on the 'subject' line?  If there 
were any replies, I must have missed them amongst the bicycling discussions.

Any thoughts - does it make technical sense?  Do people agree that there 
would be benefits for the readability of the digest?

Regards,

Kim Rennick
'88 Sovereign 3.6L

------------------------------

From: John Elmgreen <100353.1733@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 24 Nov 96 21:37:33 EST
Subject: FAQ-index

Greg Price - re list of FAQ, archives etc.:  A very long time ago I did an index
of the first 200 digest messages of Vol 1 of this list.  Nick has it (in Excel
form) and I believe it is accessible with the archives. You could use that as
some sort of starting point.  With XK-Lovers, I am accumulating in my word
processor quite a few messages on a series of subjects, for later posting maybe
to the WWW site (I file them by subject).  Sounds a biut like what you want to
do.  Regards, John Elmgreen

------------------------------

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 1996 20:44:48 -0600
Subject: RE: Volunteering myself (Suit of armor at the ready)

>How many times have we seen the same old questions come up 
>time and again? Too often.   It's understandable, given that going through 
>the old archives to find the answer to your burning question is a royal pain.  
>I'm volunteering to help with a solution, unless someone is already doing 
>this.

Have you seen the "Experience in a Book" by Kirby on the XJ-S or "The XJ6
Jaguar from Bumper to Bumper" by myself.  They are on both Kirbys website
and on Nicks website.  Do you want to do one on E-Types?
- --
                                                            Jim

  "Better an outlaw than not free."
                         Nance O'Neil   

------------------------------

From: ehuff@tuba.aix.calpoly.edu (Earl D Huff)
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 1996 19:18:40 -0800
Subject: Re: XJ-S transmission

------------------------------

From: charles daly <cdaly@passport.ca>
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 1996 22:28:54 -0500
Subject: Crunched 8!

Hi all,
This may be a very historical, if not hysterical, report;

Toronto may well go down in Jaguar history as the site of the first
completely totaled XK8!!
On Thursday, November 21st an XK8, worth $110,000. Canadian
dollars, (the report says) on loan to the Toronto Star's auto editor by 
Jaguar Canada, was completely destroyed when hit by a stolen van being 
pursued by police. (The car was midnight blue but was not described otherwise,
coupe or convertible)  The accompanying photo shows the driver of
the stolen van who leaped from the van only to be felled and held fast by
the hydro pole he also hit. (the pole fell across his waist, pinning him to
the road -one of the arresting officers looks quite amused by the
situation)
Only in Canada!
Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
'62 E-Type, ots, flat floor.

        -------------------------------------------------------------
	"Laugh? I thought I'd die!" 
			       A. Boleyn
        -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: George Cohn <gwcohn@azstarnet.com>
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 1996 20:36:39 -0800
Subject: Motorola Alternators

Kirbert:

I can't tell you much about which XJ's may have had Motorola alternators
but apparently they were original equipment on many E-types.  My car has
factory A/C and a weird bracket that mounts a Motorola alternator
backwards above the compressor.  Apparently this alternator is even
harder to find than the "normal" non A/C version.
- ------------------
George Cohn
'70 OTS
http://www.azstarnet.com/~gwcohn/

------------------------------

From: "Gregory W. Price" <gprice@mack.rt66.com>
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 1996 21:09:56 -0700
Subject: RE: Volunteering myself (Suit of armor at the ready)

> Subject:       RE: Volunteering myself (Suit of armor at the ready)

> Have you seen the "Experience in a Book" by Kirby on the XJ-S or "The XJ6
> Jaguar from Bumper to Bumper" by myself.  They are on both Kirbys website
> and on Nicks website.  Do you want to do one on E-Types?

I wish!  I have an XJ6.  Yes, I have both books, and valuable 
references they are.  I'm thinking more of an archive referencing 
specific questions and answers as they cross the list, rather than a 
how-to book. 

Greg.

------------------------------

From: Tom Graham <TGraham@internetmci.com>
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 1996 20:24:39 -0500
Subject: XJ6S3, Radio Antenna

- -- [ From: Tom Graham * EMC.Ver #2.3 ] --

'Morning Chaps-
I just replaced my original XJ6S3, 1984, Jag radio antenna with one from
Radio Shack, number 12-1330A.  It works, including the delay retraction. 
If you want more details, see below.

First, the bottom line(s).  The Radio Shack unit is cheap, $41US.  It fits
into the Jag without modification to Jag metal or electrics. The antenna
delay retracting feature works.  The antenna can NOT be mounted perfectly
vertical due to interference with the back light reflector assembly.

For two years I've fiddled around with the original 1984 radio antenna.  It
would sometimes not go up all the way, sometimes would not come down all
the way.  Most of the time it did go up and down OK, but, then I'd have a
problem with static on AM radio stations.  I cleaned the antenna and that
would help for a while.  Sooo, recently the antenna was not going all the
way up, I got static on AM radio, and I decided to tear into it.  (When a
true mechanical engineer decides something mechanical needs fixing, he is
fearless about taking on such tasks, even those that normally require the
hands of a Brit Jag monkey fingered mechanic!!!!).

OK, the radio antenna motor is in the trunk, behind the small vertical
panel, to the left of the fuel pump (XJ6S3).  I took the antenna cable
assembly and clutch assembly apart and tried for several hours to "adjust
it".  No luck, but I did learn useful information regarding the antenna
motor relay.

I'd heard before that the Radio Shack (RS) power antenna would work,
purchased it, RS number 12-1330A for $41US.  As compared the Jag unit which
has the telescoping tubing in the fender well and the motor in the trunk,
the RS unit is all one unit.  Thus it all must fit into the same fender
area as the Jag's telescope unit.

Start by taking out the Jag unit.  The motor is in the trunk (see above).
You get to the antenna itself by removing the rear light lense and then
reflector/bulb assembly.  Both pieces bolt/screw on.  When you pull out the
Jag motor assembly it has three electrical connections.  The ground strap
is obvious.  A blue/white wire runs to the motor relay and a blue/red wire
runs to the motor relay.  We will use the relay connection for the blue/red
wire to control the RS antenna.  Note that the large purple wire battery
power.  Also, the fuse for this unit is in the main (drivers tunnel) fuse
panel, fuse number 3.  I know, I went through about 4 fuses playing around.

The hard/tricky part of this project is the physical mounting of the RS
unit in the Jag fender well.  Good news is that it can be done without any
metal changes to the Jag.  The original Jag fender antenna hole is the
right size.  HOWEVER, to install the RS unit you push the antenna end in
first in through the tail light hole then up through the fender antenna
hole.  And then up about 4 inches more so that the RS motor body will then
slip inside.  You can then lower the unit to the proper fender height
position.  HOWEVER, where the antenna cable fits to the telescoping tubing,
there is a molded plastic bump that will not go through the Jag fender
hole.  Trim down this plastic bump by 1/8 inch, (.125 inch), so it will
squeeze through the fender hole. Feed the RS red orange and red wires
through the Jag original cable tunnel into the trunk, connect the black
ground wire to the chassis as is your pleasure and run the RS antenna wire
through the original Jag hole. Everything would be peachy keen now except
for the reflector/bulb housing. IT INTERFERRES badly with the RS unit when
the RS unit is mounted vertical!!!!  My solution was to re-position the RS
unit so that the body of it is to the right. It is a tight fit.  This tilts
the whole RS antenna assembly away from vertical.  The antenna when raised,
instead goes inward about 10 degrees and forward about 10 degrees.  Not bad
looking, you could even argue that this tilt compliments the flowing S3
shape!!!

The electrical connections are relatively easy.  The RS unit has three
electrical wires, one black, one orange, one red (and the antenna).  The
black wire is ground and you already fastened it in the fender well to the
chassis.  The orange wire controls the antenna motor thus making the
antenna go up or down.  That is, when the orange wire has voltage on it,
the antenna raises.  When voltage drops off of the orange wire, the antenna
retracts.  Connect this orange wire to the original Jag antenna motor relay,
, where the Jag wire blue/red was. Do you remember where the blue/red wire
was on the relay - it is in the middle of all the connectors (NOT the top
outside one, that was the blue/white wire). HOWEVER, my Jag *electrical
schematic* shows these wires reversed.  Better check yours.  The Jag relay
spade connector we want will have voltage (battery) on it when the radio is
on. Check this with a volt meter to chassis ground.  Then turn the radio
off, the voltage will drop off in about 15 seconds (this is how the delay
works). Connect the RS orange wire to that relay spade connector.  The RS
red wire is for power to the antenna motor, it comes with a 5 amp inline
fuse.  Connect this red wire to the relay purple wire, again by method of
your pleasure.  This completes the electrical wiring of the RS unit.  You
will note with pleasure that the antenna still has the delayed retracting
feature of the Jag.

That's it.  If anyone has done this a better or different way, I'd be happy
to hear about/learn from it.

Cherio -Tom

------------------------------

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #545
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jag-lovers-digest         Monday, 25 November 1996      Volume 02 : Number 546

Re: Under-hood Insulation
Re: Digest Sorting
RE: Volunteering myself (Suit of armor at the ready)
MKII Rack & Pinion conversion
Digest sorting alphabetically
Re: 85 XJ-S : rear whine on de-acceleration
Re: XJS  Auto shift points, wheels, bonnet mascot
Re: XJ-S transmission
more mk4 parts
RE: XJ6 alignment, tracking,etc.
For sale xkes'
Recommendations for XJ6 S3 Tyres?
Visit to Coventry and England
Rapid Acceleration
Rough Idle/Missing:'78XJ-12
Any advice re buying XJ6 3.2 Sov. auto ?
XJ-S Headlamp too dim
Re: Links to Archives and Members Home pages
RE: XJ6 alignment, tracking,etc.
Wheres the HP etc.
Gunson Colourtune

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Francis E. Halaburt" <geneh@frontier.net>
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 1996 21:42:37 -0700
Subject: Re: Under-hood Insulation

Sorry if attachment caused problem. Un-attached message was:

My �69 420G�s under-bonnet insulation is showing signs of age.

Has anyone successfully replaced the original insulation on older
(pre-1970) Jaguars? Can the readily available, normally yellow, blankets
of fibreglass be sprayed dark-grey or flat black? Bitchin' Street Rods
in California, USA (209-477-4840) has what sounds like the right stuff,
but it�s one inch thick, about twice as thick as what the original was.

Mylar-silver material would not be acceptable. Any suggestions or help
will be appreciated.

Gene Halaburt
E-mail: geneh@frontier.net

------------------------------

From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 06:15:20 +0100
Subject: Re: Digest Sorting

[ "Rennick, Kim (AS01)" <KRennick@p03.as01.honeywell.com.au> ]
| 
| Did anyone have any reaction to my suggestion of a couple of weeks ago 
| regarding sorting the digest alphabetically on the 'subject' line?  If there 
| were any replies, I must have missed them amongst the bicycling discussions.
| 
| Any thoughts - does it make technical sense?  Do people agree that there 
| would be benefits for the readability of the digest?

To my knowledge there is no option in majordomo to do this
automatically, and therefore you won't get it. OK?

Nick
- -- 
Nick Johannessen // nick@sn.no // http://www.sn.no/home/nick/

------------------------------

From: "John Littler" <auibmdak@ibmmail.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 01:04:37 EST
Subject: RE: Volunteering myself (Suit of armor at the ready)

Greg
I think it would be a great supplement to the 2 books (Kirby's and Jim's)
and the online discussion. I already do a search of the archives before
I do just about anything now. It would be great if it was a properly
indexed database. The plain "string" searchs I currently do result in an
awful lot of hits.

I would see it being useful firstly as a comprehensive FAQ - we do get a
lot of oft repeated questions which have been previously answered, and
secondly as a means of distilling down a lot of the knowledge that is on
this list into a more digestable form. For example the recent discussions
on positive and negative grounds and on alternators aren't appropriate
to either of the 2 books mentioned above, but are very useful info to
some.

If you need any technical assistance please yell.

John

Level 1, 29-57 Christie St.
St Leonards NSW 2065
Ph: +61-2-9937-8063  Fax: +61-2-9937-8100
Mobile +61-419-617-619   Internet: jlittler@vnet.ibm.com

------------------------------

From: Ken Wallace <kwallac2@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 1996 22:10:34 -0800
Subject: MKII Rack & Pinion conversion

My name is Ken Wallace in San Diego, California.  I own a 62 MKII, 3.8.
This car is my everyday transportation and handles that role well enough 
as long as I keep a case of oil, a case of ATF and my tool box in the "boot".

I have bought a steering rack out of an XJ6 to use on my MKII. At the time I 
bought it I did not realize that there were two generations of this rack. 

Does anyone know if there is a reason to use one over the other? What is the
difference and how can I identify them?  Also, can I 
use the stock MKII steering pump to power the XJ6 rack?

I would appreciate any advise on adapting the steering column to fit the 
rack.

Also, I have developed a distributor vacuum diaphragm rebuild technique for
the Lucas distributor on my MKII. I assume this would work on many older Jags.
It involves grinding the crimped flange off the original diaphragm assembly,
removing the old damaged diaphragm and replacing it with one cut from 0.5mm
nylon reinforced neoprene. Then the housing is put back around the diaphragm
and clamped together using a grooved aluminum ring that fits around the rim
of the diaphragm housing. The ring is split in two so you can get it over
the housing, and has 8 clamping screws which force the two housing halves
together with the edge of the diaphragm clamped in between. It is a very
tidy job and would not be noticed by most people. If enough people need
something like this I could make some more.

                        Thanks for any advise;
                                Ken Wallace

------------------------------

From: "John Littler" <auibmdak@ibmmail.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 01:10:02 EST
Subject: Digest sorting alphabetically

Kim
You suggested sorting the index alphabetically, perhaps I'm missing
something,but, what's the point ?

I'm not meaning to be overly negative I just can't quite see what it
achieves.

John

Level 1, 29-57 Christie St.
St Leonards NSW 2065
Ph: +61-2-9937-8063  Fax: +61-2-9937-8100
Mobile +61-419-617-619   Internet: jlittler@vnet.ibm.com

------------------------------

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 11:01:30 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: 85 XJ-S : rear whine on de-acceleration

> I agree fully with "until you know what's going on" part. But the rest of it
> is simply not true. The pinion depth is set by shimming the rear pinion
> bearing. Once this is done, the pinion bearing preload is set by "shimming"
> the front pinion bearing.  On type 3 Salisbury, Dana, and GKN diffs as
> applied to Jag's, this shimming is done with a crushable collar. Tightening 
> the nut will push the front bearing back, crushing the collar more. The
> rear bearing, pinion gear, and crown wheel all stay in the same place.
> 
> Now... having said that... NEVER tighten the pinion nut on a diff. The only
> reason it would need tightening is to take the slack out of the pinion
> bearings. If there is slack in the bearings, one of two things happened.
> Either the bearings are worn and need replacing, or the nut backed off...
> at which point the bearings have been run loose, are trashed, and need
> replacing. In either situation, tightening the nut may temporarily lessen
> the noises... but the damage is done. The fresh preload forces on the
> bearings will accelerate the wear, and the noise will soon be back.

Thanks for your explanation Randy. I don't have my manual repair manual
here at work :-), but I think there is a section describing the change
of the drive shaft oil seal and as far as I remember the nut is tightened
a little more after the new seal is installed. This is the section where
they also talk about whine in the diff. Why would a new oil seal require
a different bearing pre-load ?

By pure luck I have a set of torque screw-drivers, so of course I measured
the force required to start the shaft turning. Since this force was lower
than the value in the repair manual, I tightened the nut so I got
to the facture values concerning torque required to start the shaft.
And I had then whine all the time .... After backing off the nut the
symptons where as before (whine on free-run). 

I then decided to fork out the money required and had shop looking into
this. It was the inner drive shaft bearing which was bad.

Kind regards

- - Matthias

------------------------------

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 11:07:09 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: XJS  Auto shift points, wheels, bonnet mascot

> 1)  I finaly have the kickdown switch operating.  Wow, this V12 is a real
> wuus until it hits 30MPH, even in low gear.  It shifts from 1st to 2nd at
> 5000RPM/50MPH and then it gets going.

I've not tried this for a while, but I think my XJ-S shifts almost
at the redline from 1st to 2nd. 

- - Matthias

------------------------------

From: Chad Bolles <aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu>
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 07:31:32 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S transmission

Earl: Don't know what you tried to say to me concerning the XJ-S 
trans,but it didn't get here.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

------------------------------

From: lustre@iafrica.com
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 96 12:45:12 GMT
Subject: more mk4 parts

thanks for the response on the tyres, am sure the problem is now solved.

but the new problem is the missing gaiters for the rear bracket of the front 
leaf springs ? anyone have a pair in the bottom drawer ?

------------------------------

From: BSherw@aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 08:52:34 -0500
Subject: RE: XJ6 alignment, tracking,etc.

ETONIV@aol.com wrote:
> have a '94 XJ6 bought as lease return.  THe car needed alignment, before
>purchased this was taken care of but was more complicated than a simple
>alignment, shims had to be installed

If the shop that did the alignment was not familiar with Jag front 
suspension, they may have improperly shimmmed the upper control
arm pivot, (the inner "hinge" of the control arm)- there should be an 
equal number of shims at the front and back of this pivot shaft, to set
the camber angle ONLY.  Shims at the ball joint are adjusted
(front-to-back) to set the camber.   Most american cars don't have
shims at the ball joints, castor and camber are set with different 
combinations of shims at the upper control arm only.  Doing this
to a Jaguar will play hell with the suspension geometry during
turns.
Good luck-
Brian Sherwood
'84 XJ-S, '85 XJ6

------------------------------

From: cs12@cornell.edu (C-Selvarajah)
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 09:59:16 -0500
Subject: For sale xkes'

       Folks,
            Due to a bad back I have to sell my beloved 1970 XKE conv. The
car has only 12,400 miles with the original Dunlop Sp tires. The spare has
not touched the ground. It has an optional hardtop with chrome wire wheels.
The color is Old English white with black leather. The car is all original
including the paint( except for a touch up on the bonnet) and upholstery. I
have owned the car since 1974 and it has not seen rain or snow.
            Asking price is $32,000 firm. If interested call me at 607-257-7624
in the evenings or email at cs12@cornell.edu.
             My friend has a 1974 e-type roadster for sale. It has a red
exterior with a biscuit leather interior and a black top. It has chrome
wire
wheels with a four speed standard transmission and only 47,000 miles. Overall
it is in good condition . Asking price 27,000 or best offer. You can reach
my friend at 607-257-5939 in the evenings.

------------------------------

From: is.grant@pti-us.com (Ian Grant)
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 10:15:45 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Recommendations for XJ6 S3 Tyres?

Any recommendations for tyres other than the P5 Pirellis for an XJ6 S3? I
know they can use 205/75 size but I prefer the appearance of the 205/70 and
have also been told that the larger size sometimes causes a rumble in the
wheel well. I'm aiming for reasonable performance, comfort, and low noise
rather than high speed rating and don't drive it in winter.
Thanks
Ian Grant

------------------------------

From: Greg Meboe <meboe@mulder.scs.wsu.edu>
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 07:27:32 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Visit to Coventry and England

Fellow Jag Lovers,
	One benefit to being in France, (instead of Seattle) is that I'm
closer to the Jag Factory.  We've sort of hit a lull in our aircraft seat
crash testing, so I thought that it would be fun to head to merry olde
England for the week.  Dianne, little Emily and I will be driving into
London Wednesday, and hope take a tour of the Jag Factory on Thursday or
Friday. 
	If any of you wouldn't mind being seen in public with an American
bloke and his little family, I'd be more than happy to take you out for a
pint.  If you just need an extra set of hands putting a new diff in your
car, well I'm up for that too!

Reply to: meboe@atc.boeing.com      
or give me a call at:  France 33- (2)54217725 work, (2)54214199 home 

We'll be leaving Tuesday night, so call before then.  Otherwise, I'll have
the laptop with me so I can check my E-mail on the road.

		Greg
                            Greg Meboe     meboe@atc.boeing.com
			  Currently on assignment in Central France...
			  Web site>> http://www.scs.wsu.edu/~meboe
			    Mechanical Engineer  Boeing Payloads Division
			    '85 XJ-12 H.E. (daily)  '67 Spit-6 '74 TR-6

------------------------------

From: Mihran Kochyan <hyeem@wwnet.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 12:40:15 -0800
Subject: Rapid Acceleration

I have a rather strange problem with my 92.  My wife put the car in 
reverse on two seperate occassions and took her foot off the brake 
slowly.  The car lunged and went into a rapid acceleration.  It took off 
and we had to turn the ignition off to stop it.  

Has anyone out there experience a similar experience?  What is the fix?  
I had Jag engineers look at it and not find the problem.

------------------------------

From: pgrant@balink.com (PHILIP B. GRANT)
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 11:23:13 -0500
Subject: Rough Idle/Missing:'78XJ-12

This is a Mime message, which your current mail reader
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------------------------------

From: keithart@ibl.bm (Keith Hart)
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 12:31:26 -0400 (AST)
Subject: Any advice re buying XJ6 3.2 Sov. auto ?

I anticipate buying a 1991 (H registration) XJ6 Sovereign 3.2 saloon
automatic early next year in the UK. I'd appreciate any advice or
suggestions re pricing, and on any aspects of this model. I must admit that
I am rather worried now, having seen a posting from a member who reported
that a mechanic said Jaguars break down a lot and cost a fortune in
repairs!

For many years I had a Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow I, and the vehicle
continually broke down, running me up some very substantial repair and
maintenenace bills - in particular the braking system regularly gave
trouble with some brake repair bills going past Stg.1,500 (US2,500 approx).

I live in Bermuda and travel often to the UK; I like to keep a large car
garaged over there near the airport to use on my trips, but I must add that
I have to be mindful of expenses. I opted for buying a car years ago as the
cost of hiring a large luxury car in the UK has always been phenomenally
high. I also thought the Rolls would be an investment.

Having now sold the Rolls, I have been considering a Jaguar XJ6 Sovereign
3.2 saloon automatic *OR* a Ford Granada Scorpio 2.9i 24v Hatchback
automatic.

It is important to me to have a large, safe, powerful car, with air
conditioning and leather upholstery, luxury refinements, and decent mpg. I
became rather upset with the Rolls' 13mpg on 4*. Also, I want minimal
maintenance and repair costs. I had finally decided to buy a 1991 "H"
registration Jaguar in top condition, and I felt that this would cost me
Stg.12,000 maximum (about US$20,400) from my study of the UK magazines. I
don't want to spend more than Stg.12,000, in fact I'd prefer to stay around
Stg.10,000. For Stg.11,500 I could probably buy a 1993 "K" registration
Scorpio. And the Scorpio has a windscreen heater which is of great appeal
to me; the Jaguar doesn't. I've driven many different cars in the UK (BMW,
Porsche, Volvo, Rolls-Royce, Rover e.g.) and in all the windscreen has
fogged up in certain weather conditions - this can be very dangerous. The
Scorpio is starting to seem more attractive now (though, of course, it does
not enjoy the cachet that Jaguar does!). I feel sure that the Scorpio would
cost much less, on average, in maintenance and repairs than the Jaguar -
and this is borne out by the magazines I've read. I was prepared to pay a
BIT more in these areas for having a Jaguar, but I'm now very apprehensive
of buying a Jaguar at all.

I joined this listserv just a few days ago and will most sincerely
appreciate any help that you can send my way.

Warm regards from Bermuda,

Keith Hart
President
Hart Advertising Limited

email:  keithart@ibl.bm

fax: (441)-232-0276

------------------------------

From: "Claus, Mike" <claus@wg.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 96 12:41:08 EST
Subject: XJ-S Headlamp too dim

        I seem to have a recurring problem with headlamp brightness on 
        my XJ-S.  About a month ago I noticed that the drivers side 
        headlamp was noticeably dimmer than the passenger side.  I 
        replaced the bulb in the drivers side lamp and all was OK.  
        This weekend, I notice that the passenger side headlamp is now 
        noticeably dimmer than the drivers side.  

        Is this a normal failure mode for these lamps, or does my car 
        have some strange electrical problem that is making it eat 
        headlamp bulbs?

        Perhaps someone needs to explain exactly what I am supposed to 
        do with chicken bones during the ritual Lucas exorcism...

        - mclaus

        '93 XJ-S Convertible

------------------------------

From: Dan Buringrud <dano@castles.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 10:04:14 -0800
Subject: Re: Links to Archives and Members Home pages

Fellow jag lovers,
IMHO, the fine gentleman who wrote the uncalled for flame to ourlist
brother Chip Weems should have about 500 messages show up in his mail
box expessing our displeasure with someone flaming our family. I would
strongly suggest that everyone send this cyberbully a note expressing
your holiday wishes to this dipwad.

Dan Buringrud

PS : Dr. Weems, your credits page made me feel bad too!  I wondered if I
was smart enough to be on this list.  Geez thats alot of letters after
your name.  Congrats!
> 
> >Date: Sun, 24 Nov 1996 00:57:31 -0500 (EST)
> >X-Sender: jag@pop3.concentric.net (Unverified)
> >Mime-Version: 1.0
> >To: weems@cs.umass.edu
> >From: tt dington <ag@concentric.net>
> >Subject: Question
> >
> >Why is it when I searched for Jaguar, I found a picture of your face and
> >your credits on the page as well!? I don't need to see your FAT UGLY FACE
> >and I don't give a damn what you have done in your lifetime!!! I want to
> >know about Jags!!! That's it!!! I will not call your Jaguar site anymore
> >because I can't stand how you look, and I can't stand any asshole that puts
> >up their shit on a page that has nothing to with a particular subject. Your
> >Dead Meat!!!
> >

------------------------------

From: Michael Neal <mneal@wco.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 10:16:53 -0800
Subject: RE: XJ6 alignment, tracking,etc.

XJ40s don't have the adjustment shims on the upper control arm between it's
mount and the subframe like the earlier cars do.  Please keep the idle
speculation at a minimum unless you know what you are talking about<G>.

At 08:52 AM 11/25/96 -0500, BSherw@aol.com wrote:
>ETONIV@aol.com wrote:
>> have a '94 XJ6 bought as lease return.  THe car needed alignment, before
>>purchased this was taken care of but was more complicated than a simple
>>alignment, shims had to be installed
>
>If the shop that did the alignment was not familiar with Jag front 
>suspension, they may have improperly shimmmed the upper control
>arm pivot, (the inner "hinge" of the control arm)- there should be an 
>equal number of shims at the front and back of this pivot shaft, to set
>the camber angle ONLY.  Shims at the ball joint are adjusted
>(front-to-back) to set the camber.   Most american cars don't have
>shims at the ball joints, castor and camber are set with different 
>combinations of shims at the upper control arm only.  Doing this
>to a Jaguar will play hell with the suspension geometry during
>turns.
>Good luck-
>Brian Sherwood
>'84 XJ-S, '85 XJ6
>
>

------------------------------

From: Richard Griffiths <73564.2101@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 25 Nov 96 13:30:25 EST
Subject: Wheres the HP etc.

Hi all. Before going on vacation I was following a discusion on HP of the V12,
on getting home I found my E-Mail had cut off at 100 messages so I probably
missed the end of it. The theme of the thread was missing HP in our Jag XJS
V12's and affect on performance etc. I have a 10 year old version with catalytic
converters which has 245 hp others indicated 295 and Chad bolles told us about
his '83 running 160+mph, and another he is building with 900 hp (great stuff
Chad keep us posted). My interest aroused I went back and found early published
data for the Brit and US versions at release and back engineered enough data to
estimated some HP figures at higher speeds and came up with the following;
For 3600 lb car at 165 mph 350 hp required, and with 900 hp available 236 mph if
the drag fact can be reduced to .36.
Not that I get many opportunities to go fast where I live, it would at least be
nice to be able to match the other markets performance.
A more interesting question, I think, is to compare the performance of the XK8
with the original E. Here,s a car that has 2 extra cylinders, more displacement
and an extra gear plus a converter coming at a much inflated price tag in '61
dollars for a few percent gain in hp/cid and a small increase in performance.
One wonders why FoMoCo went to the trouble of an all new power train, especially
since they already produce units with enough capability, eg DB7 or heaven forbid
even something from the Mustang range.
Any thoughts anyone.
Cheers
Richard 
86XJS
86XJ6     

------------------------------

From: "Little_Mike" <little_mike@ccmail.ncsc.navy.mil>
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 96 12:42:52 CDT
Subject: Gunson Colourtune

     The "Suppliers of Jaguar Parts and Services" list has Samplex as a 
     U.S. Supplier for Gunson Colourtune. The number given: 201-584-9370 
     now belongs to someone else. The operator had no listing for Samplex 
     in Succasunna, NJ. Anybody know where I can buy a colourtune in the 
     U.S ? 

------------------------------

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #546
********************************

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jag-lovers-digest        Tuesday, 26 November 1996     Volume 02 : Number 547

Re: XJ6 tracking,etc
Re: Links to Archives and Members Home pages
Firewall
Re: XJ-S Headlamp too dim
Re: XJS bonnet mascot
Re: Links to Archives and Members Home pages
Diff whine on ACCELERATION
XJ-6 Ser III Charging Light On
Re: MKII Rack & Pinion conversion
XJ-S:  Rough Running
XJ-S Rear Window Seal
Trip across the USA
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #546
Re: Wheres the HP etc.
Re: XJ-S: Rough Running
Re: Diff whine
SMOG II ?  as pertains to '67 420G
Firewall
XJ40: Door Handle Breakage and replacement
Daimler V8 250 & a new Stereo 

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: BSherw@aol.com
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 13:54:31 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ6 tracking,etc

Michael Neal wrote:
> Please keep the idle speculation at a minimum unless you know
> what you are talking about<G>.

Idle speculation?    Yeah, you're right.... I should have stuck to 
something important,  like  "coil polarity", or even "what oil to use".
Brian Sherwood

------------------------------

From: "Mark McChesney" <mmcchesn@ford.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 14:03:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Links to Archives and Members Home pages

On Nov 25, 10:04am, Dan Buringrud wrote:
> Subject: Re: Links to Archives and Members Home pages
> Fellow jag lovers,
> IMHO, the fine gentleman who wrote the uncalled for flame to ourlist
> brother Chip Weems should have about 500 messages show up in his mail
> box expessing our displeasure with someone flaming our family. I would
> strongly suggest that everyone send this cyberbully a note expressing
> your holiday wishes to this dipwad.
>
> Dan Buringrud

> > >Date: Sun, 24 Nov 1996 00:57:31 -0500 (EST)
> > >X-Sender: jag@pop3.concentric.net (Unverified)
> > >Mime-Version: 1.0
> > >To: weems@cs.umass.edu
> > >From: tt dington <ag@concentric.net>
> > >Subject: Question

  Is he one of us??? Can we check the list to find out? What does the
"unverified" in the sender line mean? Is tt dinton <ag@concentric.net> his
address? Is he hiding?
  This is very unfortunate, it spoils things for everyone. Judging from the
state of our society however, my guess is that things will get even worse:-(.

Mark

------------------------------

From: dneufeld@sanac.usiu.edu
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 10:58:24 -0800
Subject: Firewall

Just prior to getting out the jack hammer or a 2 1/4 inch hole punch, does 
anyone have any helpful suggestions on how to get the wiring from my yet to
be installed alarm system from the engine compartment to the fusebox on the 
left side of the human compartment - I don't see any nice little covered hole
and taking off the dash left me no easy solution - This is for any of you who
have already done this and would like to share - Thanks  Don (a little 
frustrated)  
(only a little  :-|)

------------------------------

From: Cliff Sadler <ata@netsrq.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 15:17:56 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ-S Headlamp too dim

Claus, Mike wrote:

> 
>         Is this a normal failure mode for these lamps, or does my car
>         have some strange electrical problem that is making it eat
>         headlamp bulbs?
> 
>         Perhaps someone needs to explain exactly what I am supposed to
>         do with chicken bones during the ritual Lucas exorcism...
> 
>         - mclaus
> 
>         '93 XJ-S Convertible

You've apparently answered your own question......    :-)

When changing a headlamp, always change both sides unless the failure
was caused by breakage.  Bulbs have amazingly similar lifespans.

------------------------------

From: Stefan Schulz <jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 10:43:32 GMT
Subject: Re: XJS bonnet mascot

In message <199611242027.OAA22863@mail.utexas.edu> JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell) writes:
> 3)  The Jag emblem on the bonnet of my '85 looks like tarnished silver.
> Real dark and hard to recognise.  Is this what it looked like to begin with
> or does it need cleaning.  If it needs cleaning, how?

Sounds like mine.  Metallized plastic made to look like bronze.  I guess
if you try to polish it with anything abrasive, you'll end up exposing
the plastic underneath, so don't.

Take it as a sign of British understatement: "We could flash the logo like
Mercedes does the star - but we won't."  ;-)

Regards,
- --
Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk

------------------------------

From: Chip Weems <weems@cs.umass.edu>
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 15:28:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Links to Archives and Members Home pages

At 10:04 AM -0800 11/25/96, Dan Buringrud wrote:
>Fellow jag lovers,
>IMHO, the fine gentleman who wrote the uncalled for flame to ourlist
>brother Chip Weems should have about 500 messages show up in his mail
>box expessing our displeasure with someone flaming our family. I would
>strongly suggest that everyone send this cyberbully a note expressing
>your holiday wishes to this dipwad.
>
>Dan Buringrud

Thanks for your sentiments of support, but I'm not seeking revenge here.

For those on jag-lovers, I was writing in response to a message on
xke-lovers from George Cohn, asking for URL's to include in a resource
site he is building -- I just wanted to warn people who aren't used to
life on the web, that some of life can be a bit low.

For those on xke-lovers, let's please avoid the confusion of cross-posting
followup messages to jag-lovers out of context. This was one of the main
arguments against splitting the list over the years.

>
>PS : Dr. Weems, your credits page made me feel bad too!  I wondered if I
>was smart enough to be on this list.  Geez thats alot of letters after
>your name.  Congrats!

Thanks, but one thing I've learned over the years of dealing with lots of Ph.D.
types is that a lot of letters after a person's name doesn't mean
they are educated, nor does an education mean they are wise. Case in
point: If I were better educated about cars, I could have saved a
bundle on my restoration work. If I had been wise, I would have
avoided my particular E-type altogether and found a good solid
driver that I could have enjoyed all these years that the restoration
project has been sitting in my garage!

Chip

------------------------------

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 14:54:29 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Diff whine on ACCELERATION

I have been watching this thread on diff whine hoping someone would drop a
little pearl of knowledge I could use, no such luck,  So I will start my own
thread.  My Diff ('85 XJ6) has a slight (my wife cant hear it, but then she
wouldnt hear someone bailing out at 50MPH either) whine on acceleration that
goes away when you lift from the accererator.  My 82 XJ6 had it also as does
the '85 XJS.

I hate it because I dont think it should be there, but since three cars have
it and no one but me seems to notice it, I guess its just my cross to bear.

But on the off chance that someone knows how to eliminate it (other than
parking the car or coasting all the time) I would like to hear from you.

         JIM I.

- -------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas."

                                                         Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                           1879-1919
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: "Rice, Brian" <RICEB@lsod.srl.dsto.defence.gov.au>
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 09:12 +1030
Subject: XJ-6 Ser III Charging Light On

The charging light on my 84 XJ-6 Sov Series III has just started staying on 
at about 20% brightness.  The dash voltmeter shows constant 13V as usual. I 
measured battery voltage after good half hour drive with aircond and lights 
going and got 14V so battery is charging OK. Car has done 150,000 Km so I 
guess could be brushes need replacing in alternator. Any ideas appreciated?
Brian W.Rice
84 XJ-6 Sov (White)
85 XJ-S HE (White)
Adelaide South Australia

------------------------------

From: Ned Blagojevic <nbx@ansto.gov.au>
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 09:46:24 +1100
Subject: Re: MKII Rack & Pinion conversion

At 22:10 24/11/96 -0800, Ken wrote:
>
>My name is Ken Wallace in San Diego, California.  I own a 62 MKII, 3.8.
>This car is my everyday transportation and handles that role well enough 
>as long as I keep a case of oil, a case of ATF and my tool box in the "boot".
>
>I have bought a steering rack out of an XJ6 to use on my MKII. At the time I 
>bought it I did not realize that there were two generations of this rack. 

If there is anything that needs improving on the Mk2 and that is steering.
Please let us know how you get on. I like to do this someday therefore
detailed description of the process would be appreciated.  My guru tells me
that placing rack type steering on the Mk2 is not too hard however he has
some reservations about its performance at high speed and rough roads (bump
steer he said).  Since he has not installed a unit in his or any other Mk2,
I don't know if what he said has any foundation. 

Ned
'61 Mk2

Ned Blagojevic

Environmental Science Division
Australian Nuclear Science Organisation
PMB 1 Menai, NSW 2234
Australia

email: nbx@ansto.gov.au
phone (w)++61-2-717-3660
fax      ++61-2-717-9260

------------------------------

From: Aaron Burnett <aaron.burnett@attws.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 14:54:35 -0800
Subject: XJ-S:  Rough Running

I have an '85 XJ-S that runs rough at idle.  I also have noticed that
when I increase engine RPM while in neutral, the engine continues to run
slightly rough -- not extremely, but enough to REALLY FRUSTRATE me and
to let me know that something is not quite right.

I'll give all of the symptoms that I believe may be relevant:

1)  I must pump the gas a couple of time to start the engine when it's
cold.  When it starts, it slowly increases RPM over the first 5 seconds
until it reaches proper RPM (Approx. 1050 cold).

2)  The engine runs slightly rough at idle whether cold or hot.  The
slight misfire occurs on either bank (determined by feeling exhaust
pulses at tail pipes).  This tells me it is not specific to a single
cylinder, but could be caused by something common, like the coils.

3)  The miss does not occur regularly or cyclically.  Again, I am
assuming that this indicates the problem is not specific to a single
cylinder.

4)  Acceleration seems good, but then I don't know that I ever have
driven an XJ-S that is running perfectly.  So I'm not sure of my
assessment.

I know that all XJ-S tend to stumble at idle -- that is not what I mean.
 When I first got the car it stumbled, this is different.  It is running
slightly rough.  (The weird thing is that, every once in a while, it
seems to run pretty smoothly! -- then it goes right back to slightly
rough running)
These are the repairs I have carried out in pursuit of a fix:

*	re-wired the EFI harness
*	freed the seized centrifugal advance mechanism
*	re-timed the engine
*	replaced the HEI module in the ignition amplifier
*	replaced the exhaust manifold gaskets
*	replaced several melted vacuum lines
*	rewired the ignition circuit
*	replaced all plugs and wires
*	replaced air filters
*	replaced oxygen sensors
*	tested exhaust back-pressure to ensure that catalytic converters are
not plugged
*	replaced the induction manifold gaskets
*	replaced the fuel injector O-rings
*	run "Slick 50" injector cleaner through the fuel system

I am just about at my wits end.  The things I now can think of doing are
the following:

re-wire the circuit between the pick-up module and the ignition
amplifier in the event that these wires have become broken and caused
too much resistance

replace the secondary ignition coil

remove the injector rack and take it to a fuel injection shop so they
can test the injectors

Any advice or suggestions will be HUGELY appreciated.  None of these
options are inexpensive, so I don't want to replace parts simply because
I don't know what else to do next.

Please help.

Aaron
'85 XJ-S

------------------------------

From: Aaron Burnett <aaron.burnett@attws.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 14:57:19 -0800
Subject: XJ-S Rear Window Seal

I need to replace the seal for the rear window on my '85 XJ-S.  I have
the seal.  My question is:

Do I dare do it myself?

If so, any suggestions or tips?

Thanks in advance,

Aaron
'85 XJ-S

------------------------------

From: John McDonagh <jmcdonagh@bus.wisc.edu>
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 17:01:20 -0600
Subject: Trip across the USA

This is my first posting to jag-lovers for about five months - largely
because in the interim I have left New Zealand, been to England for a month
and subsequently been establishing myself in Madison, Wisconsin.

Saw plenty of late model Jags in England as you would expect, but only two
Mark 2's, and 3 or 4 E-types on the road. Went to a big car show at
Highclere? Castle, and there were a few more Jags there but less than I
expected. Also went to the Morgan factory, which was amazing and free. They
let you wander about to your hearts content and I took plenty of photos,
including one of body sections being cut out of flat sheet steel with a
pair of tinsnips!! Each car had the name of the person it was being built
for on it along with their choices of equipment.

On arrival in Wisconsin fellow Jag-lover Neil Richardson kindly lent me a
car to get around in but unfortunately it wasn't his freshly restored black
OTS E-type! Family wouldn't have fitted anyway!

Not many Jags in the midwest here. I have seen 4 E's a few more XJ6's and
only 1 XJS. Surprisingly I have also seen a Daimler V8 saloon which is
about the last thing I would have expected to see.

I know it may sound like treason but I have bought a 66 Pontiac Tempest
Convertible to transport my family and I back to LA before it gets shipped
back to NZ. My reasons for this were explained to Jag Lovers months ago
before I left New Zealand, but briefly for new subscribers - the car had to
be 30 years old to get into NZ duty free, an E-type was too small to carry
the family across the USA and I already have a Mark 2.

We are now gearing up for our big "Trans America" trip which begins around
the 17th of December. The plan is to drive quickly south from Madison to
get away from the snow etc. probably roughly following the Mississippi down
to about Arkansas. We then plan a "right turn" to take us through Texas and
New Mexico where we have some people to visit, before ending up in
California about the second week in January.

I would really appreciate any tips regarding this trip, things to see,
places to visit, good roads, cheap motel chains , Jag (or MG) related stuff
etc. Because of the limited Jag content you might want to keep this off the
list and reply direct to me at the University of Wisconsin -
jmcdonagh@bus.wisc.edu.

Thanks for any advice.

PS I really have enjoyed it here in the USA

John McDonagh

64' JagMk2, 66'MGB, 67'Wolseley 16/60, 59' Tube framed TR2 engined racing car,
82'Honda City Turbo, 73'Yamaha RD350, 86'Suzuki RG500, and now 66' Pontiac
Tempest Convertible (326HO) - first ever American car!

------------------------------

From: charles daly <cdaly@passport.ca>
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 18:33:26 -0500
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #546

Sorting the list in alphabetical order is a great idea!
Now, how do I arrange to have my E break down
alphabetically?
Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
'62 E-Type, ots, flat floor.

        -------------------------------------------------------------
	"Laugh? I thought I'd die!" 
			       A. Boleyn
        -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

From: Chad Bolles <aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu>
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 19:00:17 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Wheres the HP etc.

Richard:  My street car weighs around 3480, with a 5sp in it. The new car 
that I am building I hope will weigh in the 28-2900 range. Keep in mind 
that this car is going to be a race car. It is going to be running on 
Alky,with a compression in the 18-20 to one range,and projected cu in 
396-426 range.
I can build you a 300HP engine with not much problems and using the stock 
cams. One of the real secrets to making more HP from the V-12 is a much 
better exhaust system.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

------------------------------

From: Chad Bolles <aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu>
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 19:11:30 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S: Rough Running

Aaron:  Have you tested the fuel pressure yet,also the fuel flow,where is 
the timing,checked injector flow?? This is straight out of the XJ-S 
Engine Performance book, under fault guide symptom difficult cold start.
You have not said anything about the TPS, it is amazing what a bad TPS 
will do. You said that your XJ-S stumbeled coming off of idle, this is a 
very good indication of a bad TPS. If set up correctly the XJ-S can be 
made to idle down in the 200rpm range,and a quick blip of the throttle 
and it responds instantly.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

------------------------------

From: Brian <c556987@showme.missouri.edu>
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 18:14:12 -0600
Subject: Re: Diff whine

In light of my personal disagreement with Jim, I will try and post some
useful information here to validate my presence a bit, and to apologize
yet again for having to bring Jim and my own personal disagreement to
the list. 

On first thought, it might seem the whine originates from imperfect meshing of the gears in the diff (similar to what you hear when cars reverse).  However, since it is only present during acceleration, I would bet it is due to wear/slop in the driveline. Most likely, wear in the bearing which support the engine-side diff. gears. Upon acceleration, these bearings would load up, exerting a side-force on the diff. gears, causing them to go a little out of alignment if there is sufficient wear on the bearings, resulting in the whine you hear. During periods without acceleration, they would not be so loaded, with reduced side-force acting to misalign the gears, and the whine would go away.  This would not seem to do significant damage to the car, other than a slight (very slight) increase in rate of wear of the diff. gears. The only solution would be to inspect the parts involved, and see if any bearing tolerances are out of spec. That'd be quite a load of work, in my opinion, for a whine that is barely perceptible. But, that's up to each individual. Brian Brian Hossfeld mailto:c556987@showme.missouri.edu http://www.missouri.edu/~c556987/ From: jthorner@prodigy.com ( JOHN T HORNER) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 18:43:33, -0500 Subject: SMOG II ?  as pertains to '67 420G I've been reading in the local Jag club newsletter that some people believe it may be impossible to tune a pre fuel injected Jaguar such that it will pass the SMOG II inspections now going into effect in certain parts of California.  We have just moved back to CA after seven years in Texas and it seems that the laws have changed recently. Does anyone have experiences to confirm or refute the claim that a '67 Jag can't possibly pass the test? I'm presently in the middle of retrofitting the Crane/Allison optical electronic ignition module in place of the point on my Lucas distributor .  I'm hoping for decreased maintenance hassle (its' not easy getting in there to properly adjust the OEM points) and reduced emissions through more complete combustion.  For the record, that Lucas distributor strikes me as a cheaply made piece of junk with the most absurd wire-to- points attachment method I've ever seen.  It makes me long for that good old Delco V-8 distributor which was a model of clean engineering and easy maintainability. Anyway, will the change to electronic ignition along with careful tweaking of the triple SUs get me to pass?  Do I need to buy an exhaust gas meter to measure CO and HC before I attempt to go for my smog check. Any other advice would be appreciated. TIA, John Horner, Morgan Hill, CA John Horner jthorner@prodigy.com Morgan Hill, California From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM Date: Mon, 25 Nov 96 19:21:02 EST Subject: Firewall From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO  ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST ** *** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FE21 *** INTERNET - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM ***  IBMMAIL - AUIBMSPM **** Subject: Firewall What model car do you have ?   My XJ6 series 2 lump has just gone injected, and I have located the computer underneath the battery, inside the consold. The battery support plate has some bolts which go down into the footwell, underneath the glove box. I have attached the computer via a bracket and plastic ties to these bolts, and drilled a hole in the engine bay, just next to the battery, through which the wiring harness comes in. Just next to/behind the battery, drilling down into the footwell may be the best place for your wiring also.. *************************************************************** *************************************************************** REGARDS.......Shane *** Forwarding note from SMTP2   --IINUS1   11/26/96 07:20 *** ========================================================================= Received: from ekeberg.sn.no by vnet.IBM.COM (IBM VM SMTP V2R3) with TCP; Mon, 25 Nov 96 15:20:23 EST Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4) id <VAA10260> for jag-lovers-out; Mon, 25 Nov 1996 21:00:26 +0100 (MET) Received: from sanac.usiu.edu (sanac.usiu.edu [192.76.183.2]) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4) with SMTP id <VAA10191> for <jag-lovers@sn.no>; Mon, 25 Nov 1996 21:00:11 +0100 (MET) From: dneufeld@sanac.usiu.edu Received: by sanac.usiu.edu (4.1/SMI-DDN) id AA09628; Mon, 25 Nov 96 10:58:25 PST Message-Id: <9611251858.AA09628@sanac.usiu.edu> Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 10:58:24 -0800 X-Mailer: Mail User's Shell (7.2.2 3/26/90) To: jag-lovers@sn.no Subject: Firewall Sender: owner-jag-lovers@sn.no Precedence: bulk Just prior to getting out the jack hammer or a 2 1/4 inch hole punch, does anyone have any helpful suggestions on how to get the wiring from my yet to be installed alarm system from the engine compartment to the fusebox on the left side of the human compartment - I don't see any nice little covered hole and taking off the dash left me no easy solution - This is for any of you who have already done this and would like to share - Thanks  Don (a little frustrated) (only a little  :-|) From: cobac@ix.netcom.com Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 18:03:13 -0800 Subject: XJ40: Door Handle Breakage and replacement Hi all, I posted a while ago about door handles in the XJ40, no response.  My friends 88 XJ40(XJ6) has the two rear door handles broken.  My 89-VDP has never had the door handle "problem" (I wonder why?), I hope I never do!   Also I recently parked next to a 91 Sovereign and noticed how much larger and better designed the door handles were compared to my '89 door handles.  I believed that in 90 (US), the door handles were changed to prevent the breakage occurring in 88-89 cars.  However, when looking at an old advertisment for a 1990 XJ40-XJ6, I noticed that the car had the tiny "problematic" door handles from 1988-89!  What's the deal with them? Getting back to broken handles, looking at the major price difference in replacing the rear door handles with the "old" type, it would cost not much more to install all four door handles with the "new" type.  Then no more problems would be caused by the door handles!  But, the question I wanted to know from all you Jag-techs/owners is, can the new type of door handle be installed in the 88-89 cars?  I know the installation bracket, and gasket would be different, but would it fit properly in the door itself, and could it be hooked into the remaining door-lock latch assembly?? Seems to me like a perplexing question, hope someone out there can shed some light on this. Thanks in advance, Eric From: Shane Gibson <shane_gibson@qsp.co.nz> Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 15:46:46 -0800 Subject: Daimler V8 250 & a new Stereo  Hi All I am looking to buy myself a chrissy present and have decided on a new stereo for the Daimler (once it is finished). I am looking at a Pioneer Single CD head unit and Pioneer 12 CD changer unit for the boot.  (I contemplated a 6 stacker for the glovebox but decided against it) I will stay with 2 speakers in the foot wells but add a pair of tweeters under the dash. The pioneer comes with a remote so I need to find a place for it. Has any of the Daimler V8 owners or MKII owners on the list done anything like this? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance Shane Gibson Wellington, New Zealand 1968 Daimler V8 250 (EDMUND) End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #547 ******************************** Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4) id <QAA07432> for jag-lovers-digest-out; Tue, 26 Nov 1996 16:53:02 +0100 (MET) Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 16:53:02 +0100 (MET) Message-Id: <199611261553.QAA07432@ekeberg.sn.no> From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no Subject:   jag-lovers-digest V2 #548 Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Precedence: bulk X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest jag-lovers-digest        Tuesday, 26 November 1996     Volume 02 : Number 548 Re: Colortune Re: XJ6 alignment, tracking,etc. Re: XJ-S Headlamp too dim RE: Gunson Colourtune Re:  XJ-S:  Rough Running Re: SU AED AUX carb to manual. Re: Jag shopping Re: SMOG II ?  as pertains to '67 420G Repleshing Fluids. Price guide 3.2 Sov Leather Renovation (Rob W-M) Recommendations for XJ6 tyres. Re: MKII Rack & Pinion conversion Re: Windshield leak finding..... Re: XJ40: Door Handle Breakage and replacement Firewall Re: Repleshing Fluids. Re: XJ-S: Rough Running '84 XJ-S Final Drive (Diff) Re: Windshield leak finding..... steering rack question Re:  Spare fuses? Re;SMOG II Re: MKII Rack & Pinion conversion From: Michael Frank <mfrank@westnet.com> Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 22:06:20 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Colortune I have found a source for Gunson Colortune thru the Lotus group: Psulkowski,Raymond D 215 538-9323 RD Enterprises Lotus (and some Jaguar) 290 Raub Rd Quakerstown, PA 18951 538-0158 fax rdent@rdent.com Cost, as I recall, was about $35, and delivery was two days. Mike Frank 1969 E-Type 2+2 From: Victor Naumann <jagdoc@erols.com> Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 22:05:19 -0500 Subject: Re: XJ6 alignment, tracking,etc. BSherw@aol.com wrote:
> 
>   Shims at the ball joint are adjusted
> (front-to-back) to set the camber.   
> Good luck-
> Brian Sherwood
> '84 XJ-S, '85 XJ6
Sorry, I think you meant to say shims at ball joint are to adjust Caster
only,will have little or no effect on Camber. Alignment is often
confusing.
Regards,Vic

------------------------------

From: Victor Naumann <jagdoc@erols.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 22:10:55 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ-S Headlamp too dim

Claus, Mike wrote:
> 
>         I seem to have a recurring problem with headlamp brightness on
>         my XJ-S.  About a month ago I noticed that the drivers side
>         headlamp was noticeably dimmer than the passenger side.  I
>         replaced the bulb in the drivers side lamp and all was OK.
>         This weekend, I notice that the passenger side headlamp is now
>         noticeably dimmer than the drivers side.
> 
>        
> 
>         Perhaps someone needs to explain exactly what I am supposed to
>         do with chicken bones during the ritual Lucas exorcism...
> 
>         - mclaus
> 
>         '93 XJ-S Convertible
Bones must be blackened in the fire before casting them under the car
during full moon.
 I would look at the ground circuit for the headlamps. Poor grounds are
often the cause of dim lamps.Sorry I don't have a wiring diagram handy
to look up location. You will have to trace wires.
Good luck, Vic

------------------------------

From: "White, Dick             COLASC" <white@msgate.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM>
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 22:57:13 -0500
Subject: RE: Gunson Colourtune

************************************************************************
***************
From: "Little_Mike" <little_mike@ccmail.ncsc.navy.mil>
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 96 12:42:52 CDT
Subject: Gunson Colourtune

     The "Suppliers of Jaguar Parts and Services" list has Samplex as a 
     U.S. Supplier for Gunson Colourtune. The number given: 201-584-9370
     now belongs to someone else. The operator had no listing for
Samplex 
     in Succasunna, NJ. Anybody know where I can buy a colourtune in the
     U.S ? 
************************************************************************
***************
Eastwood sells Colortune for $45 US.  (800-345-1178).

Regards,
Dick White
Columbia, SC
'643.8 S-Type
>'58 XK 150 FHC

------------------------------

From: Derek Hibbs <Derek.Hibbs@wizardis.com.au>
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 17:04:07 +1100
Subject: Re:  XJ-S:  Rough Running

Aaron,
Could it be that your Auxillary Air Valve (AAV) is stucking? When cold, it
cannot draw the extra air to sustain an adequate idle miture and when hot it
may be too lean (idle speed would also be higher). Remove the AAV and test
it in a pot of boiling water, it should close smoothly when hot and open
when cooled.

Only a thought.
Regards,
Derek Hibbs
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
77 BRG XJ-S, 5.3lt EFI V12
"Even when it's broken, my XJ-S still looks great sitting in the garage."

Wizard Information Services Pty Ltd Canberra, Australia
Ph: 61+ 6 2750750 Fax: 61+ 6 2750777
Email: Derek.Hibbs@wizardis.com.au WWW: http://wizardis.com.au/~derekh

From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@CompuServe.COM
Date: 26 Nov 96 01:33:32 EST
Subject: Re: SU AED AUX carb to manual.

Hi list,

Conversion kit is 54 UK pounds, New exchange is 90 . from Classic spares
tel +0049 1992 716236 fax / 788424

Regards Jeffrey Gram

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 26 Nov 96 17:12:13
Subject: Re: Jag shopping

Jeremy , I’ll try to answer some of your questions:

- Can these cars be driven daily and hold up ok?

Most certainly. First you need to clean up the PO’s neglect, then you need to
maintain it with some care. I have used V12s as daily drivers for over 4 years,
now, and never been stranded.

- Is the V12 more trouble than it’s worth? (I’ve seen lots of Chevy conver’s)

Absolutely not. I wouldn’t have a Jag if I couldn’t have a V12. That
combination of silence, smoothness and power is magic. Just don’t be
intimidated by all the gubbinses - think of it as two sixes sharing some parts.

- What things should I make sure are done/checked before I buy?
  *The main thing is that the engine runs well and doesn’t smoke a lot;
  overhauling it is a lot of time and work. Expect to do up suspension, brakes
  and steering, regardless, as very few owners keep them up to the appropriate
  standard. Remember that this is a cheap (in the US) and old car. Major rust in
  the body is no fun, so lift those floor mats. Common spots are front wings at
  the location of the side badges and the panel below the windshield; I can’t
  comment much on rust because Australian Jags mostly don’t rust (dry climate). I
  have seen fatigue cracks in A and C pillars on four-doors; the coupe C pillars
  are probably strong enough not to crack. To locate such cracks, inspect the
  pillars inside and out (remove trim).
- Is the fuel injection or the four(!) carbs more desirable for
  practicality/driveability on the V12?
  *Definitely injection - but maybe I’m prejudiced.
- Did Jag get a volume discount on copper wire? These cars have the most
  wiring I’ve ever seen in one automobile.

Didn’t you hear? Jo Lucas’ brother-in-law owns a mine…

-I’d like to put on wire wheels… Is this a reasonable
upgrade as far as cost and maintenance?

No. Aftermarket bolt-on wires (there were no originals) are not strong enough
for serious driving and require expensive maintenance after every pothole. Get
a set of 7-in alloys; there are aftermarket ones that are much more affordable
than the original Jag alloys. I swapped the wires on my C for alloys and the
handling improvement was startling.

-I would likely try to install a manual when the auto burns out (I hear it
doesn’t take long).

You heard wrong. The GM400 slushbox is very strong and durable, in my
experience. Ask Kirby about fitting a manual, as he’s done it.

Good luck, and enjoy one of the world’s great engines.

-Jan

From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@CompuServe.COM
Date: 26 Nov 96 02:27:44 EST
Subject: Re: SMOG II ? as pertains to '67 420G

Hi, John

A brave man indeed you are, but what an interesting goal.

The electronic ignition will definately make you life a lot easier. Dont forget
to clean out the distributor carefully and lightly smear the vacumm advance
mechanism. If the distributor is worn in the centre shaft the old point system
will experience a funny effect with different ignition time on the cylinders due
to the shaft motion. his effect disappears with electronic
triggering

The distributor to electronic will make consistent supperior sparking, but the
emissions will not change anything but very little.

The Triple SU HD8’s must be in very good working order (no worn shafts that
create difficult to adjust idle). How many miles on the Car ?. Did you ever redo
the head with new oil seals ?
Maybe the head needs a thorough valve clean job via the ingenious crushed
walnut blasting in the inlet ports which can be done with the head in situ, but
Triple carbs off.

SU adjusting is very limited, and if your carbs were not rebuilt the last 10
years you may want to get a rebuild kit about 40 UK pounds per carb. This
contains all new seals, new jets (which become hard in the flerxible rubber so
you can’t adjust them), new spindles throttle discs and new spindle bushes. In
case there is no slack in your throttle spindles you can buy service kits,
which is without throttle parts but with new jets. If jets are ok too, just get
a gasket kit (3)

When you are this far - thus ignition perfectly adjusted, and Carbs in perfect
order, thern you can start fiddling. Of course you first have to adjust the
carbs to be running the engine perfectly in normal way. Then you can try and
adjust the carbs to slightly leaner.

Note slightly. You definately need a exhaust gas analyzer. You can buy a cheap
GUNSON DIY. They come in two versions, analog meter or a digital meter.

I prefer a analog meter where you can instantly see the motion, but that differs
in taste.

The was another posyt with a CAlifornia address for the analyzer.

I’m rebuilding triple HD’8 from a 429 G at present.

Another thing you need to be informed about your Carbs is the Burlen Fuel
Systems , reference catalogue and workshop manual and the needle chart. (about
20$)
Order at BFS tel +44 1722 412500 fax 334221. - a Goldmine of information.

Good luck.

Regards Jeffrey Gram

From: Paul Brand paulbr@atiaust.com.au
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 96 19:15:51 +1100 (EST)
Subject: Repleshing Fluids.

hello peoples.

After a couple of months of digesting all sorts of information (lurking)
floating around on this list, it is now time to ask a question…!! Tra nah
I have a question pertaining to checking levels of fluids in various bits
and places, but i can not seem to find the power steering filler, is there
one or is there something more bizarre using smoke and mirrors that is
implemented on beloved kitten…!!!

I have a '74 XJ 12L

TIA

Regards
Paul

From: Adam Clark aclark@internal.brann.co.uk
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 96 10:02:00 G
Subject: Price guide 3.2 Sov

There’s quite a useful price guide to classics for everyone at
http://specialcar.com/priceguide/

All prices are in US$ and L sterling.

However, Keith, I think the car you’re contemplating may be too new to
feature on this guide. What you really need to get hold of is the Glass’s
trade guide to auto prices in the UK which takes into account mileage
levels and the status of the vendor (private, trade or retail) in
calculating the value of the vehicle. I think we have a copy of this at
work. If you don’t get the info you need let me know and I’ll try to get
a fix on the price you ought to be paying.

See ya

Adam Clark

aclark@brann.co.uk

From: Adam Andrew Boughton boughton@ozemail.com.au
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 21:39:35 +1000
Subject: Leather Renovation (Rob W-M)

I was extremely interested in your experiance with leather renovation of
your XTS.
I am about to undertake this adventure and it looks like front seat work
is essential,
thus, as you wrote is your message that more information on details can
be provided…
I am now asking!! as much info as possible would be appreciated.

thanks & regards

AAB
XJS79

From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 11:17:36 -0800
Subject: Recommendations for XJ6 tyres.

Hi y’all,

There has been some discussion regarding tyre size on XJ’s. I’ve found that
215/70 are nearer to the original ER70 than 205/70. I have the original
Dunlop SP Sport spare in the boot of my XJ6 Series I '73, so I measured it.

As for picking the right tyre, I’m firmly believe that Dunlop SP Sport D7
215/70/15 is the one and only for my car, so I for one refrain from
experimenting further.

Cheers.

Bard

______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no

From: Lenny Seidman lseidman@erols.com
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 06:47:00 -0500
Subject: Re: MKII Rack & Pinion conversion

Ned Blagojevic wrote:

At 22:10 24/11/96 -0800, Ken wrote:

My name is Ken Wallace in San Diego, California. I own a 62 MKII, 3.8.
This car is my everyday transportation and handles that role well enough
as long as I keep a case of oil, a case of ATF and my tool box in the “boot”.

I have bought a steering rack out of an XJ6 to use on my MKII. At the time I
bought it I did not realize that there were two generations of this rack.

If there is anything that needs improving on the Mk2 and that is steering.
Please let us know how you get on. I like to do this someday therefore
detailed description of the process would be appreciated. My guru tells me
that placing rack type steering on the Mk2 is not too hard however he has
some reservations about its performance at high speed and rough roads (bump
steer he said). Since he has not installed a unit in his or any other Mk2,
I don’t know if what he said has any foundation.

Ned
'61 Mk2

Ned Blagojevic

Environmental Science Division
Australian Nuclear Science Organisation
PMB 1 Menai, NSW 2234
Australia

email: nbx@ansto.gov.au
phone (w)++61-2-717-3660
fax ++61-2-717-9260

There are now complete conversion kits avaliable from several sources to
install a PAS rack in to the MkII. Prices are around $1900 US funds and
include fully reconditioned PAS rack, new hydraulic pump and new lower
steering column and mounts etc. No welding is needed. That’s what the
sheet says. The sheet I have is from British Auto/USA. I have no
monetary interest or other expeeriance with these racks and the usual
disclaimers apply.

Good luck,

Lenny Seidman
Elkins Park, Pennsylvania, USA
email: lseidman@erols.com

From: theo bremner tbremner@lynx.dac.neu.edu
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 07:31:17 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Windshield leak finding…

Hello,

Anyone know of an effective way to find a windshield leak.  I

believe that is the culprit on my car and I’m not sure where to start
with the hunt. The water seems to end up on the driver’s floor board
mostly and the passenger side stays mostly dry. I put all kinds of
water down the sunroof drains and they are clean because the water seems
to flow out of the bottom of the fender without any blockage.

Thanks in advance,
Theo
tbremner@lynx.neu.edu

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 08:49:06 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ40: Door Handle Breakage and replacement

Eric: There is a replacment door handle for the 88-89 cars,hopefully
there are no more of the old type out there. No you cannot replace the
88-89 with the later 90. If you wish I will get you price on the
replacement handles.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: dneufeld@sanac.usiu.edu
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 04:51:41 -0800
Subject: Firewall

Sorry about that, I neglected to say that my car is an 87 XJ6 - I have one
suggestion of going thru behind the battery into the passenger side - anyone
else have any experience here? Thanks Don

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 08:54:16 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Repleshing Fluids.

Paul: Just look for the P/S pump located on the left front of the
engine,the cap has the dip stick in it.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC29212USA 803 798 3044

From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 09:00:57 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ-S: Rough Running

Aaron,
I can empathize with the stumbling/rough idle thing. My newly purchased XJS
('91) does the same thing. The only thing I noticed is that it seems to be
worse when the weather is cold. The other slow idle speed things you
mentioned, I don’t have.
I’ve always heard that a properly running V12 should be butter smooth. In
fact my old '87 XJS was butter smooth almost always.
If you push the boundaries of knowledge on this subject please keep the list
updated. There are others like me who don’t like the rough idle but don’t
complain because we are simply grateful to have a car that gets from A to B
reliably.
Julian Mullaney

From: RWOODLIN@garfield.foods.indiana.edu
Date: 26 Nov 96 09:02:37 EST
Subject: '84 XJ-S Final Drive (Diff)

The recent thread on the final drive units has been very timely for me.
I am in the process of rebuilding the drive train for Fritz the Cat
and I have encountered a perplexing problem. After removing the rear
suspension unit and disassembling it down to just the cage and the
final drive unit I find that the procedure for measuring the pinion
resistance to movement does not seem to work. When I place a torque
wrench on the pinion nut I can turn the flange with very little force
(less than 5ftlbs). I attribute this to the fact that the rest of the
drive train is in the parts cleaner and not providing any resistance.
Is there another method I might use? Also, I would appreciate a
description of what exactly is meant by the term ‘backlash’? I had
assumed I would feel a change in resistance at some point but alas I
did not. I blocked one side of the diff by placing a 2x4 accross the
studs of the output shaft but that appeared to make no difference. Any
ideas? I believe I am dealing with a Salisbury unit.

Robert Woodling
'84 XJ-S

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 09:03:59 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Windshield leak finding…

Theo: Go ahead and get a new winshield seal and have someone who knows
how to install glass in a Jag, to R&R it. Depending on the year of your
car,as the early XJ-6’s use a rubber gasket, which MUST MUST be sealed to
the body of the car AND sealed to the glass. I don’t care what the glass
shop knowitall’s say. The later Series III cars use a kit and 3 strips
that hold the chrome.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 15:22:28 +0100 (MET)
Subject: steering rack question

I’ve try to post my question yesterday, but somehow it seems to be lost.
Sorry if you get the question twice.

Anyhow, this week-end I planned to change the tower seal of my steering
rack. So I removed the old seal to discover that the new one won’t fit.

The old seal has the following form, it’s very thin :

       _____/|  |\_____

The seal I had ordered based on the parts catalog is like :

      __________________
      |      |  |      |
  |_____/|  |\_____|

The rack has part number CBC 5709, Serial number 7-L-14-75.

Could anyone help me out to find the correct part number ?

Thanks in advance

- Matthias

From: theo bremner tbremner@lynx.dac.neu.edu
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 10:30:05 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Spare fuses?

Hello,

I'm wanting to add some bass to the Blaupunkt that is in my Jag

as of right now and I was wonderring if there was a spare fuse holder in
the fuse panel under the hood where all the lights are fused (to add a
fused link that will go to the trunk to power an amp.)? (1985 Sov
SIII) I would like to fuse an 8 or 10 Gauge wire through there if there
is one available and if not any suggestions where there are spares or
where I could put one in.

Thanks in advance,

Theo
tbremner@lynx.neu.edu

From: Dan Buringrud dano@castles.com
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 07:50:07 -0800
Subject: Re;SMOG II

John,
Interesting question! I have the same concerns about my 68 E-type. I
should finally be able to get it on the road around Christmas and have
not had to go through the smog headaches yet, so I can’t help with that
part. However, a day or two after reading the same newsletter you
referred to, I read an article in one of the local papers that there is
a move afoot to change the law so that there is a 25 year moving window,
rather than using 1966 as the cutoff. The change was being sponsored by
State Senator Quentin Kopp who apparently is in good with the CARB
nazis. This would greta for the two of us, and may make the more
restrictive testing bearable.

Regards,
Dan Buringrud
68 E type OTS

From: “Patrick Fitzhorn” patrick@engr.colostate.edu
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 09:30:39 +0000
Subject: Re: MKII Rack & Pinion conversion

I’ve driven a MK2 with an aftermarket rack conversion (sorry, don’t
know if it was the British Auto one or not). Oh my #@@)@$, was it
nice! Reminded me just how bad a good Burman recirculating
ball steering system can be. The thing I don’t understand is why
the 4 wheel disk brakes of the XK150 made it into the MK2, but
why the 150’s rack didn’t.

Ken Wallace wrote:

Ned Blagojevic wrote:

I have bought a steering rack out of an XJ6 to use on my MKII.
There are now complete conversion kits avaliable from several sources to
install a PAS rack in to the MkII. Prices are around $1900 US funds and
include fully reconditioned PAS rack, new hydraulic pump and new lower
steering column and mounts etc

Patrick A. Fitzhorn ! “There is no unsophisticated engineering left,
Mechanical Engineering ! or at least there shouldn’t be!”
Colorado State University ! Gordon Glegg
Fort Collins, CO 80523 !

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #548

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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 27 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 549

MkII Steering Rack
Introduction and Paint Question
Jag: Mk2 (/Mk1/S-type/420?) brake servo replacement info
Re: XJ6 S3 Rich Cold Idle
XJS Diff Backlash
Re: Links to Archives and Members Home pages
Re: XJS Diff Backlash
Exhaust Gas Analyzers
Jags
RE: Windshield leak finding…
Mk 2 Rack & Pinion conversion
New member
XJ-S: Rough Running
1992 XJS-V12 MAINT. MANUALS
Local Mechanic
Re: 1992 XJS-V12 MAINT. MANUALS
Re: Windshield leak finding…
Re:Smog II
Firewall/No Holes method.
Re: XJS Auto shift points, wheels, bonnet mascot

From: “Alastair Lauener” a.lauener@napier.ac.uk
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 96 12:11:04 gmt
Subject: MkII Steering Rack

Alastair Reynolds has converted his S-Type to Steering rack earlier this year,
and is very happy with the conversion. Having driven the car alot recently due
to Alastair’s broken ankle, and comparing it to my own standard set up (which
still needs camber/castor set up better) , I can confirm that on his set up
there is no trace of bump steer, and the car is more positive to drive at higher
speeds. Less wander on a motorway, more accurate on the A roads. A thicker
anti-rool bar would be the next update to make an S-Type better, but after that
it is the heavy back-end one notices on the rather slim tyres by modern
standards. A steering rack is a good conversion, not noticed as not original
except by purists.

Read his story with pictures on Nick’s site.

http://home.sn.no/home/nick/jecglasgow/steer.htm

Alastair Lauener

From: TJ Noto tjn@rahul.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 08:23:20 -0800
Subject: Introduction and Paint Question

Greetings gang,

My name is TJ Noto, and I live in Palo Alto, CA. I’m a longtime
Jaguar fan, having grown up in a family obsessed with the marque.

While I’m currently “Jagless” I am immersed in the restoration
of two Jaguars through my family.

My father has recently finished the 20+ year restoration of a
1953/54 120FHC and is now working on his 67 420.

My younger brother is working on his 67 E-Type but he’s farther
away and so I’m less in touch with that debacle = ).

In any event, I’m hoping to track down some paint codes for an
older shade of Racing Green…1967 Jag Racing Green. We’ve been
looking for paint at local shops and have found few good paints
left that can be sold to the General Public.

If we use Glasurit, does anyone have the formula for 1967 Jaguar
Racing Green? None of the shops we found had listings for this
color.

As an MG owner I have the Moss catalog which cross-references several
modern paint types with the original BMC colors, but they’re not
the Jag color we’re looking for.

Somewhere, someone has had to have gone through the discovery process
before.

Any assistance or advice is greatly appreciated.

Would also be interested in hearing from any other 420 4sp with O/D
owners out there from North America. I believe less than 1000 of these
cars were exported in 1967.

Regards,
TJ Noto
1995 Ducati 916
1987 BMW 325is
1965 MGB

From: ejt@wg.icl.co.uk (Ted Trim)
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 96 11:06:47 GMT
Subject: Jag: Mk2 (/Mk1/S-type/420?) brake servo replacement info

Jag lovers,

Re: fitting a replacement servo to a 1966 3.4 Mk2, RHD, MOD

As part of the programme to get my Mk2 back on the road (engine bay rebuild)
I am replacing all the brake components. Although the existing (PO replaced)
servo was operating ok last time the car was used (hmm, 6 years ago?) I decided
to fit a new replacement. The options were new original type, ~350ukp; rebuilt
original type ~265 ukp or “new Lockheed replacement”, ~175ukp. I chose this
last option, and bought from “Classic Spares Limited” (UK) whom I have found
helpful and efficient.

The new servo duly arrived in its Lockheed box, and I have recently got round
to that portion of the engine bay, so attempted to fit it. It is not identical
to the original and “requires small mounting changes”, as advised at purchase,
without details. I thought some of you might be interested in what is needed.

The new servo is similar in form to the original but has some constructional
differences, notably:

1 The vacuum chamber is sealed with a clamp around its circumference rather than
with a number of axial bolts - this makes the overall diameter slightly larger.
2 There are three mounting studs in the central region on the end plate of the
vacuum chamber, whereas the original uses three studs near the outer edge.
3 The overall length is slightly less (~1 inch) mainly because there is no need
for an adaptor for the hydraulic line in: the fitting is integral with the
body of the servo.
4 The atmospheric inlet has an integral filter, rather than the original remote
type.
5 The vacuum connections are different; in particular the connection to the aux
vac tank check valve is from the rear of the vacuum chamber inside the servo
mounting shroud.
6 The servo is painted black and has some plastic and rubber components where the
original is cad plated metal.

I have managed to mount it without any changes to the inner wing, but I have
cut a hole in the rear of the mounting shroud to access the vacuum port (5).
This will need sealing against ingress of wheelarch crud.

Because the servo is slightly shorter I have retained the rear mounting clamp
position (I had to make a new clamp but the original would be adaptable), cut
a hole (~1.5 inches) in the shroud, moving the servo rearwards by ~0.75 inches.
This leaves space at the front for an adaptor plate which is bolted solidly
to the servo and has nuts brazed on to take bolts through the rubber mounts
in the original positions. (I used MGB speedo cable grommets with MGB radiator
mount spacers as the originals were not listed by any of my sources.) It was
also necessary to slightly beat out the shroud in a couple of places to provide
additional clearance.

Hope this is of use or interest to someone,
Cheers,
Ted

ejt@wg.icl.co.uk

From: is.grant@pti-us.com (Ian Grant)
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 12:10:52 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ6 S3 Rich Cold Idle

My problem seems to have been solved with the following fix received from
Earl Parkhurst. This after many and horribly expensive efforts over many
months and mechanics, and replacement of anything that might possibly have
been the cause. Statues to Earl are being erected in the city as we speak,
but thanks to all who offered other thoughts.
I’m impressed with whoever diagnosed this, as most diagnostic equipment
would have masked the problem when connected up (in a seperate communication
Earl explains that the problem is a circuit resonance for the cold values of
circuit components).
The only thing that I’d add is that the connector has 7 pins so there’s no
need to look for the pin numbering (which doesn’t seem to be there anyway).
Pins 3 and 5 are the same whichever end you start from. Also I assume that
for longest life the capacitor polarity should be positive to the left side
(working from the RHS of the car with the connector pointing towards you in
the same alignment as when plugged to the airflow meter) but you can check
polarity with a voltmeter first before you add the capacitor.
Thanks to jag-lovers for connecting me to the solution.
Ian Grant

…if you remove the cap that

covers the cable connection to the mass airflow meter, you will find a
seven pin connector under the rubber boot. Solder a 25mfd electrolityic
capacitor from pin 3 to pin 5 and it will clear up your problem. I had the
same thing on my 84 and this cleared up my problem. Several others in our
club also tried this and it cleared their problem. What is happening is
you are “double fueling” (giving two pulses instead of one) the injectors
when it’s cold. I got my capaciitor from Radio Shack for a little over a
buck. Go for no more than a 25V cap. as they start to get large after
that. When it’s installed slide the boot back down over the cap. and no one
will tell the difference.

From: Richard Griffiths 73564.2101@CompuServe.COM
Date: 26 Nov 96 12:28:02 EST
Subject: XJS Diff Backlash

Robert wrote >>Also, I would appreciate a
description of what exactly is meant by the term ‘backlash’? <<<

Robert,
Backlash, in this case, is defined as the clearance between gear teeth in mesh
i.e. the difference between the tooth thickness of one and the space width of
the other.
It is usually measured with thickness gages (feelers) directly at the mesh and
should be measured at several locations around the gear to account for runout
and spacing errors etc,.
If the mesh is not accessible it can be converted to a dimension that can be
measured at the input shaft if details of the gear set such as the operating
pitch radius is known, by clamping an arm and dial indicator at a convenient
location and measuring at a different radius.
Good luck.
Richard
86XJS & XJ6

From: nic@analogy.com (Nic Herriges)
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 09:53:02 -0800
Subject: Re: Links to Archives and Members Home pages

Dan Buringrud dano@castles.com wrote:

Fellow jag lovers,
IMHO, the fine gentleman who wrote the uncalled for flame to ourlist
brother Chip Weems should have about 500 messages show up in his mail
box expessing our displeasure with someone flaming our family.

Unfortunately, flames generally have little effect on people like this.
There are two strong possible explanations for why this person sent the
message in the first place:
1 They actually want flames. This could be because the address was
forged (which would result in some poor innocent receiving megabytes of
unfriendly email) or because they simply like to create controversy.
Sending flames in this sort of situation simply feeds the sickness of the
person who started it.

2 They are simply not nice people. In which case flames will generally
only tend to make them less nice.

In either case, calm, level-headed responses will at least allow you to
maintain the moral high ground. Of course, a calm response may not cause
the original “flamer” to re-cant or even re-think their point of view.
But, if they respond with more flames, you can at least be happy that you
got your point across and didn’t sink to their level.

Regards,
Nic Herriges
nic@analogy.com

From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 11:03:52 MDT
Subject: Re: XJS Diff Backlash

Robert wrote >>Also, I would appreciate a
description of what exactly is meant by the term ‘backlash’? <<<

Backlash, in this case, is defined as the clearance between gear teeth in mesh
i.e. the difference between the tooth thickness of one and the space width of
the other.
It is usually measured with thickness gages (feelers) directly at the mesh and
should be measured at several locations around the gear to account for runout
and spacing errors etc,.
If the mesh is not accessible it can be converted to a dimension that can be
measured at the input shaft if details of the gear set such as the operating
pitch radius is known, by clamping an arm and dial indicator at a convenient
location and measuring at a different radius.

Huh ? In my more simpleton understanding, its simply the “slop” between the ring
and pinion gears. At least by my experience, it is almost always
measured by a dial indicator on the center of a ring gear tooth. The
more backlash, the more slop. So here’s to hoping that we all have
appropriately sloppy differential gears !

Kind Regards,

Jim Cantrell

From: James_H._Legge@hud.gov
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 96 14:12:43 EST
Subject: Exhaust Gas Analyzers

Jeffrey Gram writes:

You definately need a exhaust gas analyzer. You can buy a cheap GUNSON DIY. They come in two versions, analog meter or a digital meter.
I prefer a analog meter where you can instantly see the motion, but that differ
s
in taste.

The was another posyt with a CAlifornia address for the analyzer.

I’m sorry if I missed a previous post about where to get one of these
gadgets, but could someone point me in the right direction, and also,
how cheap are we talking here ?
I could really use one to tune-up for the smog police shakedown, and
maybe it would help on my rough idle problem - '85 4.2 SIII XJ6. I
have a Colo(u)rTune, but the exhaust gas analyzer would be better.

From: ultrapak ultrapak@sprynet.com
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 12:35:04 -0800
Subject: Jags

My name is mike. my problem, I think is with my airflow meter on my 1987
xj6. when the adjusting screw is set at six turns out the car belches
black smoke from the exhaust. It must be set at seven and one-half turns
out to get the car to run smoothly. Is this normal for the car. When I
got the car, it would not pass smog. The dealer adjusted the meter to
make it pass.

From: Aaron Burnett aaron.burnett@attws.com
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 12:53:53 -0800
Subject: RE: Windshield leak finding…

What kind of car do you have? That may assist in locating the leak.

Aaron
'85 XJ-S

From: theo bremner[SMTP:tbremner@lynx.dac.neu.edu]
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 1996 4:31 AM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Re: Windshield leak finding…

Hello,

Anyone know of an effective way to find a windshield leak. I
believe that is the culprit on my car and I’m not sure where to start
with the hunt. The water seems to end up on the driver’s floor board
mostly and the passenger side stays mostly dry. I put all kinds of
water down the sunroof drains and they are clean because the water seems
to flow out of the bottom of the fender without any blockage.

Thanks in advance,
Theo
tbremner@lynx.neu.edu

From: Peter Smith pjsmith@gil.com.au
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 07:01:33 +1000
Subject: Mk 2 Rack & Pinion conversion

Nedd commented that his guru was concerned about bump steer and rough
roads, but there is no need for concern. If the same rack had been
available in 1958 at the right price it would have been fitted and would
have performed well. Bump steer, if a problem, is usually related to
the selection of spring/damper rates at the rear end, not steering
technology at the front end. There is now so much known about this
conversion that the details should be readily available from the right
people.
Regards Peter Smith

From: Thorsten_Ploss@magicvillage.de (Thorsten Ploss)
Date: 26 Nov 1996 20:31:26 GMT
Subject: New member

Hello everybody!

I joined this list a few weeks ago. Today I got my “new” Jag :-))

Two years ago I bought a XJ6 SIII. One of the first models, five POs,
horrible condition. The idea was to rebuild it but due the lack of time I
never did. Well I�ve had one year of fun and sold it later into Poland (no
way to pass the German T�V tests). I replaced the Jag by a BMW 525i Aut. A
modern car, but no style or fun… Every time a saw a Jag in front my da$%!�
BMW my eyes were getting wet :-(. So I started seeking for an other Jag.

Well I found it. This is my car (gato verde) now:

Daimler Double Six, SIII, modell 12/93, british racing green, creme leather,
85.000 km, one PO

Thats me:

30 years, married (my wife loves to drive her BMW convertible, but also likes
the new Jag),
no kids, chemist

�hasta luego! Thorsten

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 16:56:08 -0600 (CST)
Subject: XJ-S: Rough Running

I know that all XJ-S tend to stumble at idle – that is not what I mean.
When I first got the car it stumbled, this is different. It is running

No they dont. Mine is so smooth I wonder if it has quit so I look at the
Tach to see if its still running!!

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: barnesl@naswi.navy.mil
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 96 14:57:35 PST
Subject: 1992 XJS-V12 MAINT. MANUALS

Dear Chad:
Saw your E-mail concerning Maintenance manuals for a XJ-40. Can You
get me Maintenance manuals on a 1992 XJS-V12 convertible??
Thank you, larryB

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Ref.
To: “RDIAZ” RDIAZ@maila.harris.com
Cc: jag-lovers@sn.no, marshall@mentor.co.nz
From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Certify: N
Subject: Re: Best XJ 40 Service Manual
Date: Saturday, November 23, 1996 at 9:12:46 am PST
Attached: None

Ricardo: I can supply you a real Jaguar repair manual for the XJ-40
cars,prices as follows:
1988-89 around $230. 5 volumes
90-92 around $450. 8 volumes
93-94 around $350.
95 around $360. covers XJ-6 & 12
96 ammendment $20 XJ-6 & 12
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: “Michael C. Clement” 74131.2201@CompuServe.COM
Date: 26 Nov 96 18:32:12 EST
Subject: Local Mechanic

Recently asked for referrals of mechanics in Chicago area. After checking
through the local Jag club, was referred to a Derrick Broughton in Chicago.
Anyone had any experience with him or know of someone close to you who has? If
you prefer, you can e-mail me directly.

Thanks,
Mike Clement
'90 XJ40
'91 XJS

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 20:07:24 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: 1992 XJS-V12 MAINT. MANUALS

LarryB: The 5 volume set of service manuals for the 92-93 XJ-S is $275.
This covers the conv and coupe.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: Victor Naumann jagdoc@erols.com
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 21:02:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Windshield leak finding…

theo bremner wrote:

Hello,
    Anyone know of an effective way to find a windshield leak.  I
believe that is the culprit on my car and I’m not sure where to start
with the hunt. The water seems to end up on the driver’s floor board
mostly and the passenger side stays mostly dry. I put all kinds of
water down the sunroof drains and they are clean because the water seems
to flow out of the bottom of the fender without any blockage.

Thanks in advance,
Theo
tbremner@lynx.neu.edu
Did you check the drains under the grill for the wiper motor ? If these
clog,water will collect in the plenum and come inthrough the blower
motors.Hope this helps, Vic

From: Chris Walker cbwiii@adnc.com
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 19:12:30 -0800
Subject: Re:Smog II

From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@CompuServe.COM
Date: 26 Nov 96 02:27:44 EST
Subject: Re: SMOG II ? as pertains to '67 420G
From: Dan Buringrud dano@castles.com
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 07:50:07 -0800
Subject: Re;SMOG II
Friends,
Take it from one who has been there and back…
When I bought “Lumpy” (Need I say more?), the car had a BAR sticker so I
thought I was clean & green for smog. Took it to a “coupon” place for
smogging where it tested very clean but failed the “functional test” for the
EGR (couldn’t hold vacuum, please, no Chevy jokes). BTW, when they do the
“real” test now, the results go directly via modem to Sacramento and are
“carved in stone”. Paid $25 labor to have the EGR valve replaced (2 bolts,
fer chrissake, usually I have a few drinks before I get screwed), then the
mechanic ran the test again (on-line, remember?), when it came up as a
“Gross Polluter”. My complaint about the mechanic is a side issue; bottom
line is, before your car is tested for real, have it tested off-line (not
having the results sent in, just a dry run to see how things sort out).
Remember how there used to be maximum repair cost limits? They don’t apply
to “Gross Polluters”. As it is, I get the pleasure of driving Lumpy to a
special referree station annually now for the next 3 years in order to
register! At least the referree station has no monetary interest in whether
the car passes or not, they can’t even recommend a garage. That’s the way
they all should be, instead of a testing station making profit from the
repairs for deficiencies they “discover” (btw, it cost me $40 for a “second
opinion” that my carb was bad. Then another $65 from another shop that
found the actual problem: distributor diaphgram bad.)
And that, Chad, is why I truly appreciate your mechanical advice; I’ve
discovered that here in San Diego that leaping cat hood ornament makes
mechanics hear a “cha-ching” sound!
Hope everyone has a legendary Thanksgiving!
Chris in way-sunny San Diego

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 21:28:31 -0600
Subject: Firewall/No Holes method.

I’m sorry - it is an XJ6 - a 1987 and I would love to have your info on
where you ran your wiring thru - thanks Don

I will try to do this from memory since my wife wrecked that car last July
and the XJ6 that I now drive is a new body on the old running gear (the body
was totaled but I wasn’t giving up my race tuned car!) and the horn wire
does not exist on this one (it went to the Great Wrecking Yard in the Sky).

I did not want to cut any holes so I removed the carpet on the passanger
side and found, up in the semi vertical part, two holes with metal plugs in
them. They are small rectangular holes. The plugs self distructed when I
pryed them off. When you remove the plug you will NOT see daylight. The
hole goes into an inner area between two pannels.

I then figured a way to fish a wire through this hole (into which I placed a
grommet first to protect against the sharp edges) and out the gap between
the fender and the pannel. (I think that is what I did!) Then I pulled the
wire up into the engine compartment. I think I used a coat hanger to fish
it out, by putting the coat hanger in from the fender side and when I saw it
on the area of the hole I hooked it around the wire and pulled it out. I
dont remember this part too well so you will probably have to experiment
here. For some reason I seem to remember that I never could actualy see the
coat hanger but managed to make it hook anyway.

When I was done I had no holes that were not original, but I had my wire
running for a short distance under the car unprotected. The unprotected
length was short and by pulling the wire tight, I thought, acceptable. You
could daub some silicone sealer over it if you were worried.

Hope this helps.

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: Jon Jackson jon1@flash.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 21:32:06 -0600
Subject: Re: XJS Auto shift points, wheels, bonnet mascot

Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR wrote:

I finaly have the kickdown switch operating. Wow, this V12 is a real
wuus until it hits 30MPH, even in low gear. It shifts from 1st to 2nd at
5000RPM/50MPH and then it gets going.

I’ve not tried this for a while, but I think my XJ-S shifts almost
at the redline from 1st to 2nd.

Matthias
It all depends on how heavy your foot is. If I press the pedal down
hard it holds until the redline area. If I let up just a hair the shift
point is alot earlier.

Jon

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #549

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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 27 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 550

Re: XJ-S Headlamp too dim
Re: XJ40: Door Handle Breakage and replacement
Fluids replenished.
XJ-S acceleration noise & smoke screen
Gunson Analysers
Re: Introduction and Paint Question
Temporary vacation
Re:Retrofitting airbags
V12 - Check your coolant circuits
Re: Mk 2 Rack & Pinion
Jag: Mk2 clutch pedal return spring
Re: Wheres the HP etc.
Re: XJ-S acceleration noise & smoke screen
Bump steer [was: Mk 2 rack and pinion]
XK Engine rebuild questions
Re: V12 Tuning
RE: Windshield leak finding…(2)
V12 engine identification
Re: XJ-S bodies
Re: Diff whine on ACCELERATION
Re: Wheres the HP etc.

From: Jon Jackson jon1@flash.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 21:36:20 -0600
Subject: Re: XJ-S Headlamp too dim

Claus, Mike wrote:

    I seem to have a recurring problem with headlamp brightness on
    my XJ-S.  About a month ago I noticed that the drivers side
    headlamp was noticeably dimmer than the passenger side.  I
    replaced the bulb in the drivers side lamp and all was OK.
    This weekend, I notice that the passenger side headlamp is now
    noticeably dimmer than the drivers side.

    Is this a normal failure mode for these lamps, or does my car
    have some strange electrical problem that is making it eat
    headlamp bulbs?

    Perhaps someone needs to explain exactly what I am supposed to
    do with chicken bones during the ritual Lucas exorcism...

    - mclaus

    '93 XJ-S Convertible

Mike,
On my 87 there is a ground under the hood to the left side (looking
forward) of the radiator that caused my car to have the same symptoms
that you describe. There are several ground wires that go to this same
point. Cleaned it up a bit and all is great.

Jon

From: KupyKool@aol.com
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 23:07:43 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ40: Door Handle Breakage and replacement

Eric-

Regarding your question about door handles:

On my 1988 XJ40, the handles worked fine until I took the car to a regular mec
hanic for a Maryland State Inspection before deciding to purchase the car.
When I got the car back, the front passenger side handle wouldn’t open from
the outside. (Gee, the mechanic didn’t flag that.) Since the dealer wanted
$435(US) for this repair, I decided to try it myself.

I took apart both front doors from the inside to see what was going on. (The
first door took about an hour, because I couldn’t find all the !@#$ screws;
the second one about ten minutes.) Inside the handle assembly, if I remember
correctly, is a vertical rod which attaches to the handle by means of a
peened joint. On mine, the peened joint had failed, causing the rod to fall
off into the door compartment. To fix this, I drilled out the peen and used a
rivet instead. You could also do this with a screw, I expect.

Anyway, problem solved with only a couple hours work and about $0.05(US) in
materials.

-Mike Kupritz

From: Paul Brand paulbr@atiaust.com.au
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 16:43:47 +1100
Subject: Fluids replenished.

Bods.

Thank you to all responders regarding my kittens fluids

It has been found and topped up

Cheers
Paul
'74 xj12l

From: Robert Bradley Robert.Bradley@BH.EYI.COM
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 00:06:54 -0600
Subject: XJ-S acceleration noise & smoke screen

My 87 XJ-S has made a peculiar noise on four occasions when accelerating from a
dead stop. I have now managed to replicate the conditions under which this
occurs and I would welcome opinions on possible causes.

The noise is a funny low frequency grunching type noise which lasts for 1-4
seconds. It occurs when you apply moderate to heavy acceleration from a dead
stop (like front row at traffic lights with a Mustang beside you or round
abouts (traffic circles) with small breaks in traffic) this is AFTER you have
braked fairly hard to get to a complete stop. The noise emanates from the
front right hand side of the car, probably the front right wheel region but it
could be the right hand side of the transmission since it’s a LHD and I am
behind the wheel when the noise occurs. The noise is definitely not wheel
spin. The noise does not occur unless you have done the hard braking to a
complete stop. If you brake gentle to a complete stop then take off you can
get up to wheel spin acceleration without any funny noise.

Furthermore, on one occasion I powered out of a round about under firm
acceleration again, taking the car from 60 to 120kph (big round abouts here in
Bahrain - some you can go around at 80kph no problem) I looked in the rear
view mirror to change lanes and there was an enormous pall of smoke coming out
the back. Vital signs - oil pressure, temp. etc - OK, no loss of power. It
has never happened before and hasn’t happened since. It was similar to when
the diaphragm in the transmission vacuum modulator burst and sucked
transmission fluid into the right air box but that was less smoke and occurred
consistently under acceleration. The dealer says that his service bulletins
refer to the Positive crankcase ventilation sticking sometimes - he says he
can’t see anything else wrong. Anyone have any suggestions?

Robert Bradley
ex Melb. now Bahrain
82 XJ6, 82 Daimler, 87 XJ-S, 2 * jx220 (1/16 scale!) and a Mk 7 in the shed
back home.

“some days are diamond, some days are stone”

From: George Cohn gwcohn@azstarnet.com
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 23:40:43 -0800
Subject: Gunson Analysers

One source of the Gunson analyser is:

Moss Motors
(800) MOSS-USA or
(805) 681-3400

The price is $155 USD.

I believe J.C. Whitney in Chicago also carries it.

George Cohn
'70 OTS

From: Jpscan@aol.com
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 01:52:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Introduction and Paint Question

I also have a 1967 420 although mine is an automatic. As part of my interest
in 420’s, I also collect original Jaguar literature, sales brochures, etc. My
1967 Jaguar Cars (USA) brochure only lists two “greens” as exterior colours
for that year - Willow Green and Opalescent Dark Green. There is no listing
for Jaguar or British Racing Green. Sorry, I don’t have any codes. You might
try a restoration shop like XK’s Unlimited in San Luis Obispo to see if they
can give you any help. I know they send their painting out, but they have
extensive colour books for all Jaguars.

You are right about the numbers of 420’s imported to the US. Somewhere just
under 1000. I had a search done on registrations, and it showed only about
168 remaining registered in the US and about 28 in California.Rare cats!

Jim Scannell

'89 XJ-40 BRG
'67 420 Valentine Beige

From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@earthlink.net
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 1996 23:35:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Temporary vacation

Hi all-
I’ll be signing off for a week or two while out of town for the holidays. I
will resubscribe on my other email account when I get back-
Happy Thanksgiving to those of you in the US!
Hunt

From: Andrew Yen ayen@netspace.net.au
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 19:09:01 -0800
Subject: Re:Retrofitting airbags

All of the car manufacturers but two will tell you that retrofitting airbags is not
possible (the exceptions are BMW with their sports wheel/eurobag and Renault with
their R19). The thing that they are all worried about is that changes to the body
structure that have not been tested with an airbag may cause the airbag to go off
when you hit a squirrel or a pothole. The big problem is that it might cause an
accident and an injury(or death) rather than save one.
But there are a few products around.
There are at least two Korean products (one called Bogo I think and another called
Air Camp) they probably aren’t available, but anyway I wouldn’t trust them. I saw a
film of a Korean airbag (I can’t remember which one) that actually flew out the
window when it went off (you can imagine how embarrased the promoters were - this was
a sales demonstration in New Zealand and made the nightly TV news).
Then there is a product made by Breed in USA (Florida) called SRS40 I think. The
problem may be that they don’t have a sensor setting that is calibrated to a Jaguar.
Finally there is the Jaguar OE product. I have heard that this airbag has a steering
wheel mounted sensor although I havent seen it (this is the only way that you are
going to retrofit an airbag as sensors attached to the body would require special
mounting that had been tested in crash conditions) and I suspect it may have even
been made by Breed in the US. The problem will be that you will not know if your car
is structurally (in crash conditions) identical to Airbag equipped Jaguars. If it is
then I imagine that you could swap the steering wheels (or maybe the whole column).
But then the odds are that some very small (and undetectable) changes were made when
airbags were fitted. Examples may include different thickness of bumper mounts,
different drive shafts or even stiffer steering column mounts. I wouldn’t do it
unless you could get the factory’s OK.
On the Passenger side I think that you are stuck without airbags. But then if you wear your seatbelt and have the seat back then you may be almost as safe. I dont think I have solved your XJS problem but I have probably discouraged you from trying. Andrew Yen (New contributor - Mk 7 in bits the last 9 years, but I’m half way!) I have a problem, hoping for a solution: Is there any way one can retrofit an '87 XJS Cabriolet with single or dual airbags? It may be considered vandalism, but it is the only way we can avoid the car being sold by the matriarch of the family. Cheers, Sigurd From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 11:05:16 GMT Subject: V12 - Check your coolant circuits The information below pertains to a 5.3L V12 as installed in an '88 XJ-S, UK spec. Look at the left thermostat housing. Find the hose that runs from it to the overflow pipe at the top of the radiator. Tug at the hose where it is connected to the thermostat housing. There will be a good chance that it will come off easily, taking with it the little pipe that should be press- fitted into the thermostat housing but isn’t quite. It happened to me yesterday and my mind still boggles from seeing the sheer unadulterated idiocy of the design. The piece of pipe the hose connects to at the termostat housing is about 1/4" diameter, 1" long. It is made from soft metal and changes shape easily. At time of manufacture it probably was a press-fit but it lost that property long ago. It slid into and out of that mounting hole as easily as, ahem, a piston in a bore. THE ONLY THING THAT HELD IT IN PLACE WAS THE SLIGHT FORCE EXERTED BY THE HOSE PRESSING ON IT FROM ABOVE ! Given that I only started messing with it because that hose had split, you can imagine that there wasn’t a lot of force left to hold it in with. But underneath lurks coolant at 15psi pressure, and we all know what coolant loss means to a V12. So, folks, check that piece on your V12. It really is a disaster waiting to happen. By the way, Jaguar don’t sell it as a separate spare part, of course, they want you to buy the entire stat housing and a bit of ancillary plumbing. The quick fix I used yesterday was to squash the pipe using a suitable center punch and a few hammer blows, then force it back into the hole that now was a press-fit again. Still, that doesn’t solve the underlying design problem, so tapping the hole and putting in a suitable threaded fitting is what I’ll do WIGATI. Suggestions as to what type of fitting to use are welcome. Regards, Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson) Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 03:35:53 -0800 Subject: Re: Mk 2 Rack & Pinion You wrote:

Nedd commented that his guru was concerned about bump steer

We have been instaling the XJ6 short turet rack in our cas since 1988
after some engineering to avoid bump steer in the set up of the rack.

It really does make a huge difference in the car’s handling … but you
must be caeful about positioning the rack properly…
happy thanksgiving to all
tony

VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
Inactive web

From: ejt@wg.icl.co.uk (Ted Trim)
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 96 14:26:07 GMT
Subject: Jag: Mk2 clutch pedal return spring

Jag-lovers,

Can anyone suggest a (UK) source for a Mk2 clutch pedal return spring?

Mine has broken; I can’t re-assemble the pedal box without it.
The two pedal return springs are handed, and although David Manners list both,
when you order the clutch spring you get the wrong one: when I asked why
they admitted the batch had been made the wrong way!!! I can’t find any other
listing.

Thanks,
Ted

1966 3.4 Mk2 RHD MOD

ejt@wg.icl.co.uk

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 15:47:48 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: Wheres the HP etc.

I can build you a 300HP engine with not much problems and using the stock
cams. One of the real secrets to making more HP from the V-12 is a much
better exhaust system.

I guess that is the major difference to the European cars, e.g. not cat
(or other emission stuff) and 295 HP.

Two questions :

- 1. what is a full flow exhaust ? I’ve seen several ads for them
    but what exactly does it mean ? No silencers ?
- 1. in the JEC magazine someone offers straight pipes to replace
    the middle silencers. Any idea how much this would gain and
    how the car’s sound is changed ?

Kind regards

- Matthias

From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 10:29:18 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S acceleration noise & smoke screen

he noise is a funny low frequency grunching type noise which lasts for 1-4 seconds. It occurs when you apply moderate to heavy acceleration from a dead stop (like front row at traffic lights with a Mustang beside you or round abouts (traffic circles) with small breaks in traffic) this is AFTER you have braked fairly hard to get to a complete stop. The noise emanates from the front right hand side of the car, probably the front right wheel region but it could be the right hand side of the transmission since it's a LHD and I am behind the wheel when the noise occurs. The noise is definitely not wheel spin. The noise does not occur unless you have done the hard braking to a complete stop.>

Mine used to do the same thing. (87 XJ-S) Shortly after the differential
was whining. One of the positraction clutch pack retainers had given up
and was floating around in the fluid. I neever was sure what the connection
with hard braking was, but the noise always came on acceleration following
a very hard stop. After I got the differential rebuilt, the noise never
happened again.

Thomas E. Alberts

From: Kroppe kroppe@mich.com
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 10:35:20 -0500
Subject: Bump steer [was: Mk 2 rack and pinion]

Peter Smith pjsmith@gil.com.au wrote:

Bump steer, if a problem, is usually related to
the selection of spring/damper rates at the rear end, not steering
technology at the front end.

Bump steer, specifically, means that a tire changes toe angle as it
raises (bumps) or lowers (rebounds) through suspsension travel. This
is caused from the tie rods (rack/pinion or recirculating ball, doesn’t
matter) are of fixed length, and thus will cause the steering knuckle
or suspension upright to turn as the wheel raises or lowers.

Generally, you want the front tires to toe out slightly in bump, so that
a car will tend to steer out of a turn (understeer). This rule of thumb
is for us production car manufacturers – anyone building their own car
can make it oversteer (unstable) as much as they want.

Bump steer is not to be confused with roll steer or compliance steer.
Roll steer is the net steering effect from the combination of the front
and rear suspensions bump steering together. You can have different
amounts of toe in/out at the front/rear to give you different amounts
of roll steer. Compliance steer is the phenomenon of cornering forces
loading up the rubber bits in the suspension, thereby causing the front
or rear wheels to toe in or out, depending on the geometry and relative
stiffnesses of the bushes.

B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6

From: Kroppe kroppe@mich.com
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 10:43:16 -0500
Subject: XK Engine rebuild questions

Greetings all -

I now have all my engine bits back from the machine shop.
This means the pressure is on to get the motor back
together!

A few questions:

The gorillas at the machine shop laid my block on
its side and crushed the dipstick tube. Is it a
matter of tapping from below to get the old one free?
Is it simple to install a new dipstick tube?
Anyone have a source for brass core plugs for the
XK 4.2L block? (Corrosion and appearance improvement)
What is the function of the small slotted screw which
appears to hold the distributor drive bush? The machine
shop said my screw was too short, but that’s the way
it came out of my engine, and I wasn’t having any
distributor/ignition problems with my engine.
Anyone have experience with the substance “The Green
Stuff”, which my machine shop sold me as a core plug
sealant? Kind of thick and sticky, like pipe dope.
Smells like womens’ fingernail polish.

Thanks as usual for any and all comments/advice.

B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 16:47:35 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: V12 Tuning

Question on V12 tuning. There was a reference in a recent communication
from someone who had installed the UK company AJ6’s tuning mods. Needless
to say I lost it. They offer a 3 stage proess starting with a retuned ECU.
Could anyone who has experience of these mods let me know the results. Now
the cat is back on the road with a new output shaft bearing (@ $80 instead
of quoted $1 200 - thanks Hal and other respondents) I have the recurring
itch to “improve” the breed.

There are also two articles of the first two tuning stages in Jaguar World.
Let me know if you want to know which issues.

- Matthias

From: Aaron Burnett aaron.burnett@attws.com
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 07:57:09 -0800
Subject: RE: Windshield leak finding…(2)

From: theo bremner[SMTP:tbremner@lynx.dac.neu.edu]
Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 1996 5:04 AM
To: aaron.burnett@mccaw.com
Subject: Re: Windshield leak finding…(2)

You wrote:

I’ll give you an account of my own unsuccessful exploits.

I have an '85 XJ-S and have been pursuing a driver’s side leak for more
than 1 year. These are all of the things I have tried:

re-sealed the window using “Flowable Windshield Silicon” between the
glass and rubber seal (these were leaking slightly)
cleared the drains between the windshield motor cavity and and front
wheel wells (these were plugged with fir needles)

Are these drains the ones that empty inside the engine
compartment. Right angle elbows from the cubby in front of the
windshield?

Yes, they drain into the front wheel wells.

cleared the air-conditioning drains (they were plugged) - these drains
lead from the air-con matrix, through the floor of the vehicle and drain
nearly on top of the exhaust pipes (catalytic converters in U.S.).
Clean them by inserting a long wire or coat hanger from the underside to
unplug

Does my 85 Sov SIII have these drains? Any idea. I would like
to try finding these drains but it doesn’t sound like I have these ones.
The most of my water seems to be on the driver’s side also.

I believe that, if your car has air conditioning, it will have these
drains. Perhaps someone else on the list can confirm this?

sealed all screws that secure chrome trim around windshield

While each of these things did needed to be done, unfortunately none of
them have stopped my leak.

Each of the above repairs was recommended to me by experts on the
jag-lovers list who HAVE repaired leaks in these ways. Perhaps one of
these will fix your leak.

Aaron
'85 XJ-S

Thanks for anything else you can add!

Theo
tbremner@lynx.neu.edu

From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 17:13:23 +0100 (MET)
Subject: V12 engine identification

Had a question from a local club member intending to convert
his XJ6 to an XJ12. His problem is in identifying if a V12
he has found is a pre-HE or a HE motor.

How can he tell? Is there a changeover head number?

Any help much appreciated.

Nick

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 11:48:49 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S bodies

That’s my story and I’m sticking with it!

John

On Fri, 22 Nov 1996, Chad Bolles wrote:

John: Do you think that they would buy that story, BARRS LEAK indeed!!!
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Coumbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 11:41:17 GMT
Subject: Re: Diff whine on ACCELERATION

In message 199611252054.OAA23378@mail.utexas.edu JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell) writes:

thread. My Diff ('85 XJ6) has a slight (my wife cant hear it, but then she
wouldnt hear someone bailing out at 50MPH either) whine on acceleration that
goes away when you lift from the accererator. My 82 XJ6 had it also as does
the '85 XJS.

Are you REALLY sure it’s a diff whine ? My XJ-S used to make a noise very
similar to diff whine (and I know now what that sounds like ;-( ) when
accelerating, too. Turned out to be an intake leak at the left air filter
housing, a new gasket fixed it.

Regards,

Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 12:15:51 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Wheres the HP etc.

On 25 Nov 1996, Richard Griffiths wrote:

Hi all. Before going on vacation I was following a discusion on HP of the V12,
on getting home I found my E-Mail had cut off at 100 messages so I probably
missed the end of it. The theme of the thread was missing HP in our Jag XJS

Having started the thread, I don’t know that we came to any conclusions,
just agreement that these motors should be capable of a whole lot more. I
wonder if their low output is due to a bunch of little things , or if one
or two fundamental deficiencies could be addressed to pump 'em up.

John

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #550

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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 28 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 551

XJ-S No-Start Cured?
RE: Windshield leak finding…(2)
86 XJ6 running again
Battery Drain XJS
82 XJ6 S3 Gas leak from overflow
Re: MKII Rack & Pinion conversion
Re: Battery Drain XJS
Re: Wheres the HP etc.
V12 engine identification
Re: V12 engine identification
Re: Battery Drain XJS
XJ-S Black Smoke
Battery Drain XJS
XJ-S starter problems
Re: XJ6 Tie Rod Ends
Re: V12 engine identification
Re: XJ-S starter problems
Re: V12 engine identification
bump steer Pt2
Re: XJ-S starter problems
bump steer
Re: V12 engine identification

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 12:47:09 -0500 (EST)
Subject: XJ-S No-Start Cured?

Previous postings have described our attempts to get a friends '85 XJ-S
running. It would not start, very obviously because of excessive
richness.

We may have found the problem! Although ground to the ECU was one of the
many things we had checked early on, the owner later went further and
checked the ECU connector. He found an intermittant ground on pin 1 at
the connector. This pin, according to our schematics, should ground to
the frame of the car at the ground points near the battery.

This wire was identified in the loom and a splicer to ground added. The
car started fine and at this point is OK.

While Jags always offer up new surprises, this was the only thing that was
ever found to be ‘wrong’, so perhaps we’ve got it licked.

If indeed this was the culprit, I can only imagine how many parts could
have been thrown at the repair by the average repair shop!

John

From: Bert.Willing@lc.dmx.epfl.ch (Bert Willing)
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 18:57:17 +0100
Subject: RE: Windshield leak finding…(2)

cleared the air-conditioning drains (they were plugged) - these drains
lead from the air-con matrix, through the floor of the vehicle and drain
nearly on top of the exhaust pipes (catalytic converters in U.S.).
Clean them by inserting a long wire or coat hanger from the underside to
unplug

Does my 85 Sov SIII have these drains? Any idea. I would like
to try finding these drains but it doesn’t sound like I have these ones.
The most of my water seems to be on the driver’s side also.

I believe that, if your car has air conditioning, it will have these
drains. Perhaps someone else on the list can confirm this?

My 84 XJ6 (A/C) does have these drains - they have been unplugged by the PO earlier this year.

Ciao

Bert

Bert Willing '84 XJ6 4.2L
Laboratoire de Ceramique - Departement des Materiaux
Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (EPFL), MX-Ecublens, CH-1015 Lausanne
Fone : (+41 21) 693 29 44
Phax : 58 10
email: Bert.Willing@lc.dmx.epfl.ch

------------------------- Eudora 2.1.1 ------------------------------

From: “Gary H. Zajic” zajic@umich.edu
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 14:33:58 -0500 (EST)
Subject: 86 XJ6 running again

Hey Jag-lovers, Thank you for your responses regarding my
car that quit running a few days back. Seems it was the fuel
pressure regulator that went and according to the shop it was
giving 80-100 pounds of pressure causing too rich a fuel mix.
They did mention the problem about leaking around the exhaust/
converter and that it should be replaced soon. Also, the cold
weather is getting to my starter so it is probably next…
Anyway, it’s back on the road and I am glad for that.
Thanks again. Sincerely, Gary

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 13:43:58 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Battery Drain XJS

When I bought the '85 XJS three months ago I was told that the PO had
installed a battery cut off in the trunk because when he let it sit for
several days the battery would go dead.

When I got it home I tested the drain at the battery when the car was shut
off and found onlu.035 amps which I assumed was the computer clock
maintenance. It wasnt enough to kill the battery “in a few days” so I
removed the switch which was keeping me from installing the cover over the
battery. For three months things were just fine. Then this morning (after
sitting fot 4 days!!) I turned the key and got only a weak grunt out of it.

The battery is only 13 months old and is a major manuf. but the problem the
PO was having predated the installation of the new battery anyway so I dont
suspect the battery. The PO had replaced the battery twice, before he put
in the switch, thinking it was the battery!!

Is there something that might intermitently come on and drain the battery?
Any ideas are welcome!!!

     JIM I.

“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”

                                                     Gen. Emiliano Zapata
                                                       1879-1919

From: Lu Magdaleno lm@pacificnet.net
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 11:53:02 -0800
Subject: 82 XJ6 S3 Gas leak from overflow

For those of you following this thread. I was quoted a price of $85 US
for each of three fuel change over valves. I followed the suggestions I
received and removed all three valves and dipped them in carburator
cleaner and reinstalled them. Two days later and it appears that the
problem was solved.

Looks like this group saved me about $300; much more if I had it done at
a shop.

Thanks guys.

Luis

Luis Magdaleno, Attorney at Law
Gatekeeper to BUYERS’ HEAVEN http://www.bheaven.com/bheaven/
If you appreciate BARGAINS or are a merchant looking for SALES.
FREE WANT ADS for consumers, 100s of buyers for merchants.

From: “Richard Moore” richard@ee.uts.edu.au
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 1996 08:49:59 UTC+1000 (ES
Subject: Re: MKII Rack & Pinion conversion

HI all,
I am still interested in Ken Wallace’s original question
that is: can the standard MK2 pump(the type mounted on the
generator)be used with a XJ6 steering rack and which XJ rack sould be
used?
I apologise for repeating his query but I would like to find
out more information before this thread is lost.
Richard.

From: hdrsons@iamerica.net (Hal Rogers)
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 1996 17:10:37 -0700
Subject: Re: Battery Drain XJS

At 01:43 PM 11/27/96 -0600, Jim Isbell wrote:

When I bought the '85 XJS three months ago I was told that the PO had
installed a battery cut off in the trunk because when he let it sit for
several days the battery would go dead.

When I got it home I tested the drain at the battery when the car was shut
off and found onlu.035 amps which I assumed was the computer clock
maintenance. It wasnt enough to kill the battery “in a few days” so I
removed the switch which was keeping me from installing the cover over the
battery. For three months things were just fine. Then this morning (after
sitting fot 4 days!!) I turned the key and got only a weak grunt out of it.

The battery is only 13 months old and is a major manuf. but the problem the
PO was having predated the installation of the new battery anyway so I dont
suspect the battery. The PO had replaced the battery twice, before he put
in the switch, thinking it was the battery!!

Is there something that might intermitently come on and drain the battery?
Any ideas are welcome!!!

Maybe a lamp is staying on…like under the hood or in the trunk?

Regards,
Hal

Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
Import Auto Specialists
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax

Serving Auto Enthusiasts since 1959

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 17:24:59 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Wheres the HP etc.

Matthias: I have no idea what a Full Flow exhaust is,I know what a free
flow exhaust is,but have never heard of the full flow.
You would be much better off making bigger pipes for your system then
removing the center muffler. If anything remove the rear muffler, and
install bigger center mufflers, and a rear muffler such as an ANSA
tip(looks good and controls noise).
Now my car before the headers were installed,I made a 2 1/2 inch system
all the way to the rear,with a balance pipe ,made a big difference.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: “Richard.Mansell” Richard.Mansell@psemail.ps.net
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 22:25:00 +0000
Subject: V12 engine identification

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Content-Type: text/plain; name=“Authorized by…”; charset=us-ascii

Message authorized by:
: nick@sn.no%ussmtp at ccx400uk

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Nick

According to the XJ-S collectors guide the first HE engine number was
8518001.

OK, I have got time to kill, here goes…

Other engine numbers listed verses YOM are:-

854551 Feb 76 Cannister type oil filter introduced
855203 Oct 76 Revised EFI
856454 Modified fuel pump
857017 Apr 77 GM400 introduced
858632 Nov 77 Stronger manual trans selector shafts
8510195 May 78 Modified air filter box to stop blowing off!!
8511262 Oct 78 Ignition amplifier re-located
8513094 Oct 78 Twin V groove water pump pulley introduced
8516401 Nov 80 Digital P injection introduced
8517194 Nov 80 Sump plug relocated

8518001 Jul 81 HE Introduced

Most changes after this are listed by VIN number but the following are
listed too:-

8S24175 Metric threaded cylinder heads
8S26992 Piston spec modified
8S27297 Inlet manifold modified to remove holes for cold start
injectors
8S31737 Modified drive plate
8S41339 Spark plugs changed from B6EFS to BR7EFS
8S41344 Sump oil baffle plate changed
8544227 Water pump bearing size increased
8544317 Full flow oil cooling replaces relief flow
8545527 GM400 revalved, modified sump pan.

Hope this helps if you are still awake.

Richard

Richard.
richard.mansell@ps.net

______________________________ Forward Header __________________________________
Subject: V12 engine identification
Author: owner-jag-lovers@sn.no%ussmtp at ccx400uk
Date: 27/11/96 16:13

Had a question from a local club member intending to convert
his XJ6 to an XJ12. His problem is in identifying if a V12
he has found is a pre-HE or a HE motor.

How can he tell? Is there a changeover head number?

Any help much appreciated.

Nick

------ =_0_MIME_Boundary_14668.329cc0dd.imcdrkc0.eurh021.eur.ps.net–

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 17:34:07 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: V12 engine identification

Nick: The easy way to ID an HE engine is the HE engine uses a 5/8’s plug
wrench,where the pre-HE uses a 13/16’s wrench.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044On
Wed, 27 Nov 1996, Nick Johannessen wrote:

Had a question from a local club member intending to convert
his XJ6 to an XJ12. His problem is in identifying if a V12
he has found is a pre-HE or a HE motor.

How can he tell? Is there a changeover head number?

Any help much appreciated.

Nick

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 18:00:18 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Battery Drain XJS

On Wed, 27 Nov 1996, Jim Isbell wrote:

Is there something that might intermitently come on and drain the battery?
Any ideas are welcome!!!

Since you don’t seem to suspect the alternator, assuming that your
measured current drain is accurate and steady (no intermittent increases
in current drain due to a chafed wire somewhere), this might not be of
help.

But, anyway, I have had alternators where a bad field winding connection
in the alternator takes out two-thirds of the alternator. (Two thirds of
three phase device open circuited.) This can be a steady or intermittent
situation.

This manifests itself as an alternator not quite able to keep up with the
electrical loads, so the battery goes flat after a while. You might
notice somewhat lower voltages when running, but mostly under high
(electrical) loads and the Jag voltmeter is damped anyway, so it reacts
slowly to changes.

If this is the problem, it could explain why your battery went flat with
such a low leakage current…

John

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 18:05:20 -0500 (EST)
Subject: XJ-S Black Smoke

I have noticed that my '82 XJ-S goes very rich – as evidenced by vast
quantities of black smoke from the tailpipes – at full throttle over 5000
rpm.

The effect is very startling. At full throttle in first or second, all is
well until the tach needle crosses 5000 rpm. Then things get very smoky.
No noticeable change in power, though.

Isn’t this odd? Have I discovered a new ECU failure mode?

John

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 17:17:34 -0600
Subject: Battery Drain XJS

Aparently some of you missinterpreted my current reading. I said .035 amps
or 35 milliamps. This is only one tenth of the current required to run a
bulb so I am reasonably sure its not a bulb that is staying on.

I re measured it and came up with a more accurate reading. It is actualy
only .024 amps. At this drain a 500 amp hour battery that was fully charged
would take 20,833 hours to discharge or approximately 900 days, or about 2.5
years! This is as long as the battery is waranted for anyway! So I dont
think it is being discharged by what I am reading. The culprit must be an
intermitent load of a higher value that I am not seeing when I measure it.

It is not the trunk light, even intermitently, since the bulb on the left
side is blown and the one on the right side is missing.

The voltage meter always reads above 13 volts when the car is running. Always.

If the battery is disconnected at the end of use each time, a pain in the
butt, it will continue to give good service so the drainage is happening
between uses.

I just cant see any other culprit other than the battery itself, but it just
doesn’t check bad. And if it were an internal short it would drain even if
disconnected, so that can’t be it.

I guess I have to connect a current sensing device to set off an alarm when
the current jumps up so I can trouble shoot it then…#8-) Blamed thing
would probably go off at 3AM.

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: Tom Murray appraise@i2020.net
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 18:47:15 -0500
Subject: XJ-S starter problems

I am fighting ongoing electrical problems. My latest problem is with my
starter.

My 86 XJ-S has 150,000 miles. With a good battery, I try to start the
car and the dash
lights go out, volts drop, buzzer stops buzzing. I charged the battery
disconnected
the alternator and got the same results.

I suspect the starter is going straight to ground. The manual states
that the starter should be removed for bench testing. The procedure
outlined for removing the starter 86.60.01 includes removing the exhaust
down pipe and steering column.

I assume I won�t have to worry about steering column with an American
car. Is there a way to remove the starter without removing the exhaust
and is there something else I
can check before removing starter?

Thanks in advance,

Tom Murray
appraise@i2020.net

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 28 Nov 96 9:56:47
Subject: Re: XJ6 Tie Rod Ends

Chad Bolles : You cannot use the earlier tie rod ends. The later car uses
a
smaller shaft on the tie rod.

Where’s the cutoff point for this? I have a '77 that I fitted XJ40 tie-rod ends
on with no trouble.

-Jan

From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 19:04:24 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: V12 engine identification

Had a question from a local club member intending to convert
his XJ6 to an XJ12. His problem is in identifying if a V12
he has found is a pre-HE or a HE motor.

How can he tell? Is there a changeover head number?

Nick,

No need to go uncovering numbers and such. A simple glance at the spark
plugs will tell you. The pre-HE engines used “normal” spark plugs with
a 13/16" hex, and they mount dead vertical. The HE engines use a taper
seat plug with a 5/8" hex, and sit at about a 20-30 degree angle… tilted
inboard.

And that angle makes all the difference in plug accessability. This is why
the E-Type owners can’t understand all the XJS owners bitching about getting
plugs out and in. :>

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 20:23:02 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S starter problems

On Wed, 27 Nov 1996, Tom Murray wrote:

I assume I won=92t have to worry about steering column with an American
car. Is there a way to remove the starter without removing the exhaust
and is there something else I=20
can check before removing starter?=20
=20

Yes, only the left header comes out to get to the starter and believe it
or not it is not so bad.

But before doing anything rash, be sure that your starter is OK.

Remove the plastic cover over the relays at the right rear of the engine
compartment. This is up by the hood latch. There are two or three relays
underneath. One of the relays has a fat white wire with a red stripe
attached to it. Remove this wire from the relay. Now, with the key and
everything else off, jump this wire to the a good 12 volt source. One
place to do this from is the headlight fuse box on the other side of the
car. You’ll just need a long jumper.

This wire energizes the starter solenoid. If all is OK, applying 12 volts
to the wire will energize the solenoid, allowing the starter to spin the
engine over. So the motor should turn over.

If the starter doesn’t spin, then you either have a problem in the starter
or in the wires leading from the battery to the starter or an engine
ground.

If the starter spins, then you have a problem someplace else and the
starter needn’t come out.

John

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 28 Nov 96 12:21:42
Subject: Re: V12 engine identification

nick @ sn.no (Nick Johannessen)

28/11/96 09:13
To: jag-lovers @ sn.no @ internet
cc:
Subject: V12 engine identification

Had a question from a local club member intending to convert
his XJ6 to an XJ12. His problem is in identifying if a V12
he has found is a pre-HE or a HE motor.

How can he tell? Is there a changeover head number?

Any help much appreciated.

Nick

Much simpler than that, Nick: Pre-HE has 14mm spark plugs angled fore and aft;
HE has smaller (10mm?) plugs angled inwards.

-Jan

From: Licensed jshuck25@mailhost.cinet.co.cn
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 09:59:48 ±800
Subject: bump steer Pt2

I think you are confusing bump steer with trailing throttle oversteer. =
Go in a corner…let off the gas abruptly…nose tucks in…un loads he =
back…the rear end comes around…ask the guys on the BMW list about =
this!! When ever you see a 320i with twigs and tree limbs on the rear =
license plate…this is how it happened…john shuck…beijing

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 28 Nov 96 12:40:27
Subject: Re: XJ-S starter problems

The most common problem with the symptoms you state is a bad earth connection
to the engine or anyway between engine and battery (-). Hook up a voltmeter
between the engine and battery (-), then crank; if you read more than a
fraction of a volt, you need to check the engine earth strap and the battery
earth connection.
A bad connection here doesn’t show up in normal running, as the current drain
is small, but during cranking you draw 100-200 amps and even 0.1 ohms in the
earth circuit would rob the starter of most of the battery voltage.

From: Licensed jshuck25@mailhost.cinet.co.cn
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 09:55:59 ±800
Subject: bump steer

it’s my understanding that bump steer is the steering action caused by =
the angle of the rack versus the tie rods…hit a bump…the wheel =
moves…minimum is what you want…correct… I suppose the rear springs =
would have some effect, but I think the question is the mounting =
position of the rack relative to the steering arms on the spindle…john =
shuck…beijing

From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 23:42:12 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: V12 engine identification

Much simpler than that, Nick: Pre-HE has 14mm spark plugs angled fore and aft;
HE has smaller (10mm?) plugs angled inwards.

-Jan

Both plugs are 14mm x 3/4" reach. The difference is in the upper part of
the plug. The HE uses a taper seat seal (smaller), with a reduced diameter
body and smaller hex (5/8 vs 13/16). The AJ6 engine uses yet a different
plug design. standard 14mm x 3/4, with a gasket and normal sized body
as the rep-HE and XK engines. But it uses the reduced 5/8 hex and smaller
insolater the the HE plugs.

These plugs are all industry standard. Jag did not tool up a custom plug
for any of their engines.

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #551

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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 28 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 552

Re: XJ-S starter problems
Re: Battery Drain XJS
Re: XJ-S acceleration noise & smoke screen
Re: V12 - Check your coolant circuits
RE: bump steer Pt2
RE: bump steer
Re: bump steer
Re: Recommendations for XJ6 tyres.
Re: Gunson Analysers
420’s in USA
Re: Brakes S-type
Re: Brakes S-type
Re: Battery Drain XJS
Re: Jet Hot exhaust coating vs Hirsch
Re: Battery Drain XJS -tricks
Re: XJ-S starter problems
Re: Wheres the HP etc.
Re: XJ6 Tie Rod Ends
Re: XJ-S starter problems

From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 23:33:56 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S starter problems

I am fighting ongoing electrical problems. My latest problem is with my
starter.

My 86 XJ-S has 150,000 miles. With a good battery, I try to start the
car and the dash
lights go out, volts drop, buzzer stops buzzing. I charged the battery
disconnected
the alternator and got the same results.

Tom Murray
appraise@i2020.net

Ah, the classic symptoms of a bad connection. Everything seems fine, until
you apply the surge current of the starter motor, at which point a
connection goes open.

You will need a volt meter and an accomplice. Put the volt meter directly
to the battery posts (not the terminals). You should see 12.65v, if the
battey is good and fully charged. Now have said friend key the starter,
and observe the voltage. If it stays up around 12v and the starter/lights
as before, you have a bad connection. If the coltage drops to near 0,
either the battery is bad (internal broken connection), the starter is
toasted.

If the voltage stayed up during that test, start moving the volt meter
connection point one step at a time and repeat. When the voltage starts
going to 0, you found the bad connection. As a generic order, I do :

post, - post (as above)
terminal, - post
terminal, - terminal
terminal, - body ground
junction post, - body
starter post, - body
starter post, - engine

Note, if the car has those silly and flakey “replacement” battery terminals,
the ones that clamp on to the cable, you’ll need to test at the terminal,
and at the wire just down stream.

Since you’re buzzer and all lights go out, I would not suspect the engine
to body ground strap, as these components do not use that path.

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 1996 23:57:55 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Battery Drain XJS

I re measured it and came up with a more accurate reading. It is actualy
only .024 amps. At this drain a 500 amp hour battery that was fully charged
would take 20,833 hours to discharge or approximately 900 days, or about 2.5
years! This is as long as the battery is waranted for anyway! So I dont
think it is being discharged by what I am reading. The culprit must be an
intermitent load of a higher value that I am not seeing when I measure it.

There is a big difference between drained dead and drained to the point
of not starting. Just a technical point. 24 mA is well within reason for
parasitic power drain. Keep alive for computers, radio, etc. memory.

It is not the trunk light, even intermitently, since the bulb on the left
side is blown and the one on the right side is missing.

Any light bulb. Glove box, puddle lamps, etc. I’ve also seen trip computers
do this. Intermintent as hell, too.

I’m going to bounce one off of you here… as I know of at least one spot
in the car that can do this. A load that is triggered on by the ignition,
but then is being powered by battery voltage; either by feedback or crossed
wires. Once the load is energized, it remains on until the battey is
disconnected… which I assume you do when you put the ammeter inline. SO,
if your ammeter can handle 10 A, you might want to put it in, turn the
ignition on and off (just for giggles, with a hot engine), and then see
what your draw is.

Now, the point I know that could do this… I know you just did a bunch of
cooling system work. Does your electric fan work correctly?

If the battery is disconnected at the end of use each time, a pain in the
butt, it will continue to give good service so the drainage is happening
between uses.

I just cant see any other culprit other than the battery itself, but it just
doesn’t check bad. And if it were an internal short it would drain even if
disconnected, so that can’t be it.

Exactly.

I guess I have to connect a current sensing device to set off an alarm when
the current jumps up so I can trouble shoot it then…#8-) Blamed thing
would probably go off at 3AM.

Sorry, Jim, but a Jag simply isn’t allowed to do this. Smoke detector low
battery signals have an exclusive on this feature. :>

–
Jim

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 1996 00:06:47 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S acceleration noise & smoke screen

The noise is a funny low frequency grunching type noise which lasts for 1-4
seconds. It occurs when you apply moderate to heavy acceleration from a dead
stop (like front row at traffic lights with a Mustang beside you or round
abouts (traffic circles) with small breaks in traffic) this is AFTER you have
braked fairly hard to get to a complete stop. The noise emanates from the
front right hand side of the car, probably the front right wheel region but it
could be the right hand side of the transmission since it’s a LHD and I am

A common cause of this is weak or bad engine/trans mounts. Shift the engine
foreward, then torque it over (and up), and the fan will hit the shroud.
Look at the edges of the fan for telltale scrap marks and feathering.

Robert Bradley
ex Melb. now Bahrain

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 1996 00:14:41 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: V12 - Check your coolant circuits

Look at the left thermostat housing. Find the hose that runs from it to the
overflow pipe at the top of the radiator. Tug at the hose where it is
connected to the thermostat housing. There will be a good chance that it
will come off easily, taking with it the little pipe that should be press-
fitted into the thermostat housing but isn’t quite.

It happened to me yesterday and my mind still boggles from seeing the sheer
unadulterated idiocy of the design. The piece of pipe the hose connects to
at the termostat housing is about 1/4" diameter, 1" long. It is made from
soft metal and changes shape easily. At time of manufacture it probably was
a press-fit but it lost that property long ago. It slid into and out of
that mounting hole as easily as, ahem, a piston in a bore.

This method of installing tubes in cast parts is quite common and wide
spread. It is normally fairly robust… and is often used for fuel feed tubes
into carburator bodies. Works well… but sometimes you run into one
where the tube just doesn’t stay. This is the first I’ve heard of this
happening on a Jaguar.

One particular notorious instance happened to a famous carb maker. They had
a large batch of carbs, that after a few years, would spit out the fuel
feed tube. This is why there are no '79 Lancia Betas left in the US. They
all burned to the water line.

Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

From: Licensed jshuck25@mailhost.cinet.co.cn
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 1996 10:31:45 ±800
Subject: RE: bump steer Pt2

From: Licensed[SMTP:jshuck25@mailhost.cinet.co.cn]
Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 1996 9:59 AM
To: ‘jag-lovers@sn.no’
Subject: bump steer Pt2

I think you are confusing bump steer with trailing throttle oversteer. =
Go in a corner…let off the gas abruptly…nose tucks in…un loads he =
back…the rear end comes around…ask the guys on the BMW list about =
this!! When ever you see a 320i with twigs and tree limbs on the rear =
license plate…this is how it happened…john shuck…beijing

From: Licensed jshuck25@mailhost.cinet.co.cn
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 1996 10:31:18 ±800
Subject: RE: bump steer

From: Licensed[SMTP:jshuck25@mailhost.cinet.co.cn]
Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 1996 9:55 AM
To: ‘jag-lovers@sn.no’
Subject: bump steer

it’s my understanding that bump steer is the steering action caused by =
the angle of the rack versus the tie rods…hit a bump…the wheel =
moves…minimum is what you want…correct… I suppose the rear springs =
would have some effect, but I think the question is the mounting =
position of the rack relative to the steering arms on the spindle…john =
shuck…beijing

From: Ned Blagojevic nbx@ansto.gov.au
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 1996 19:03:33 +1100
Subject: Re: bump steer

At 09:55 27/11/96 ±800, Licensed jshuck25@mailhost.cinet.co.cn wrote:

it’s my understanding that bump steer is the steering action caused by the
angle of the rack versus the tie >rods…hit a bump…the wheel
moves…minimum is what you want…correct… I suppose the rear springs would
have >some effect, but I think the question is the mounting position of the
rack relative to the steering arms on >the spindle…john shuck…beijing

I think that this the problem I was discussing with the Jag mechanic. He
basically said that you can fit the rack, and under normal conditions
everything will be fine, but the moment you hit a bumpy road at speed the
car might not behave as it should. This was the reason I placed the
steering conversion in the low priority basket until I get this sorted. He
prepares a race trim Mk2 for one of the Jag club members and has over 30
years experience so I tended to believe him.

Alastair L. wrote:

Alastair Reynolds has converted his S-Type to Steering rack earlier this year,
and is very happy with the conversion. Having driven the car alot recently
due
to Alastair’s broken ankle, and comparing it to my own standard set up (which
still needs camber/castor set up better) , I can confirm that on his set up
there is no trace of bump steer, and the car is more positive to drive at
higher
speeds. Less wander on a motorway, more accurate on the A roads. A thicker
anti-rool bar would be the next update to make an S-Type better, but after
that
it is the heavy back-end one notices on the rather slim tyres by modern
standards. A steering rack is a good conversion, not noticed as not original
except by purists.

Read his story with pictures on Nick’s site.
http://home.sn.no/home/nick/jecglasgow/steer.htm

Tony wrote:

We have been instaling the XJ6 short turet rack in our cas since 1988
after some engineering to avoid bump steer in the set up of the rack.
It really does make a huge difference in the car’s handling … but you
must be caeful about positioning the rack properly…
happy thanksgiving to all
tony
VICARAGE JAGUARS…

Alastair’s setup sound good and I will lookup the story (again), however,
the problem is potentially there as clearly stated by Tony. He appears to
have investigated the problem thoroughly. I don’t want to sound alarmist
but a conversion which is not done properly could present a very dangerous
situation. In the interest of safety, and since he has solved the problem,
maybe Tony can shed some light on the subject for us.

Ned Blagojevic

Environmental Science Division
Australian Nuclear Science Organisation
PMB 1 Menai, NSW 2234
Australia

email: nbx@ansto.gov.au
phone (w)++61-2-717-3660
fax ++61-2-717-9260

From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 28 Nov 96 18:10:17
Subject: Re: Recommendations for XJ6 tyres.

Baard : As for picking the right tyre, I’m firmly believe that Dunlop SP
Sport D7
215/70/15 is the one and only for my car, so I for one refrain from
experimenting further.

The thing about sticking to the standard item is of course that you won’t risk
making the car behave worse than standard. It’s safe. And if you’re into the
museum thing, there’s obviously no question - you have to try to get as close
to original as you can.

Let me just tell you about the results of my own experiments.

Personally, I have my Jag purely for driving pleasure (all right, 10% for
impressing the peasants) and don’t mind taking a moderate risk in return for
the chance of improving handling and road-holding with 20-years-on technology.
As I understand it, the issues in tyre selection - apart from the obvious load
carrying and speed ratings - are rolling radius and natural resonant frequency.
Rolling radius is maybe the less important of these, as it only affects ground
clearance and speedo accuracy.

Resonant frequency, on the other hand, can be important. The suspension system
can be tuned above or below the resonance of the tyre+wheel system but must not
coincide, in order to avoid oscillation. I’d expect the Jaguar suspension to be
tuned well below the tyre resonance, in which case it would be OK to fit a
lighter wheel and a lower-profile tyre.

I first tried wider and lower tyres on standard wheels, going to 225-60/15. The
result was excellent, even though the rims are a little too narrow for these
tyres (Dunlop A4 Le Mans). Handling was sharpened and ultimate adhesion
increased significantly. There was a ground clearance penalty of 5-6 mm and the
speedo reads 3% high.

On the XJC, I tried 7in alloy rims (inexpensive but excellent) with 235-60/15 tyres (Bridgestone Eager was the only tyre I could get in this size). This turned out to be the largest tyre that will fit; it reduces the turning circle slightly (less than 10 deg at the steering wheel) and required a little panel-beating at the rear wheel arches (folding the inside flange up). the front mud-flap mounting had to be refined, too. This change led to a further noticeable improvement in both handling and adhesion with additional improvement after I went to 1 deg negative camber front and rear. Oh, and the 235-60 tyres have the correct rolling radius. The exit speed in my favourite corner has gone up from 135 to 155 km/h (83 to 96 mph). I’m now very happy with the way the car handles and goes, and won’t be experimenting further… I put a set of Konis on the four-door but use standard shock absorbers on the coupe. I notice no great difference, except that the coupe seems to handle large bumps better. Jan From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au Date: 28 Nov 96 18:13:19 Subject: Re: Gunson Analysers gwcohn @ azstarnet.com (George Cohn) 27/11/96 15:40 To: James_H_Legge @ hud.gov @ Internet cc: jag-lovers @ sn.no @ Internet Subject: Gunson Analysers One source of the Gunson analyser is: Moss Motors (800) MOSS-USA or (805) 681-3400 The price is $155 USD. I believe J.C. Whitney in Chicago also carries it. ______________ George Cohn '70 OTS Not for the first time do I wish I could have easy access to the US car accessory and tool market. Please, does anyone know if these products or equivalents are available in Australia, or a reliable US mail-order supplier that doesn’t mind the export hassles? Jan From: “Alastair Lauener” a.lauener@napier.ac.uk Date: Thu, 28 Nov 96 09:50:48 gmt Subject: 420’s in USA A recent book I pouchased gives 976 total 420’s for the USA, doesn’t give the number of equivalent Daimler. Lists British Racing Green, and Willow Green as exterior colours for 420 and Daimler, not Opalescent Dark Green. I suspect that is what BRG was called by the USA division. Funnily enough, I have never seen another S-Tyupe with the same colour combination as mine, Opalescent Silver Blue, with a Biscuit/Cream colour interior. This book only lists Dark Blue, Grey, Light Blue or Tan as the equivalent interior colours, so the first owner of my S-Type must have had the interior made to special order! Alastair Lauener 64 S-Type From: ejt@wg.icl.co.uk (Ted Trim) Date: Thu, 28 Nov 96 10:19:54 GMT Subject: Re: Brakes S-type Hi Stein! Any good advices for me who’s removed my brake-calipers, front wheel, and wants them overhauled/replaced. My car is an S-type, 3.8 1966 model. Are you a member of the JEC? If not, that’s my first advice. The monthly magazine is excellent, and full of adverts. Anyway, you have several options in two groups: 1) Stay with original design - a) Complete recon calipers e.g. from Classicar Automotive, ~135ukp each b) Replace cylinders only i) New cylinders as original, from e.g. David Manners, Ken Jenkins ~75ukp/cylinder * Fine, but they corrode like the originals too. ii) Re-conditioned cylinders with stainless linings from e.g. Classic Spares ~43ukp/cylinder, exchange. * This could be done locally; some report brass linings also. * Linings have been known to slip if not fitted properly. iii) Brand new solid stainless cylinders from SNG Barratt (don’t know price, see http://www.barratt.co.uk/ ) 2) Upgrade - a) Fit Coopercraft calipers; these are new bolt-on replacement calipers which use later pattern pads (~375ukp) b) Fit brakes from later Jaguar - need to swap uprights and things like that; there are bolt-on possibilities but I don’t know the details: the expertise is on the list somewhere though! The choice of new or recon is yours. I really like the idea of the brand new stainless items from Barratt. I originally intended to go for 2a but now I’ve decided to go with 1bii - I always found the original brakes to be very effective when in working order, but if you drive the car very hard it would be worth considering an upgrade. Don’t forget to renew the cylinder bolts and use the proper ball-type bleed screws where appropriate! I’m unsure how critical the caliper alignment is, but use the appropriate shims as original… Hope this helps; if you want any further details/addresses let me know. The above prices/names mostly from November 96 Jaguar Enthusiast magazine and may or may not include VAT (but probably not). Cheers, Ted ejt@wg.icl.co.uk cc’d to Jag-lovers as might be useful for other “compact saloon” owners. From: “Stein Hovind” steinh@kirkeparken.vgs.no Date: Thu, 28 Nov 1996 12:17:55 CET Subject: Re: Brakes S-type Hi, Ted. I’m much obliged for your informative and very structured answer. I will follow your advice and join JEC. I think I will go for either recon calipers from Classicar Automotive or the upgraded ones from Coopercraft. I’ve written to Coopercraft asking for more info, but Classicar Automotive is new to me. Would you be so kind as to send me their adress and or E-mail adress. And thanks again. Regards Stein From: ata@netsrq.com Date: Thu, 28 Nov 1996 09:18:01 -0500 Subject: Re: Battery Drain XJS Jim Isbell wrote:

When I bought the '85 XJS three months ago I was told that the PO had
installed a battery cut off in the trunk because when he let it sit for
several days the battery would go dead.
snip
Is there something that might intermitently come on and drain the battery?
Any ideas are welcome!!!
     JIM I.

I have recently experienced a similar situation in my '83. What was
happening here was I would turn the car off, go do something and come
back to start it to a dead battery, which was actually bubbling!

I would try to start it, no go, turn the key off, and it would still
turn over once or twice! Eventually I traced this to the start relay.
One of the points had melted/fallen off, and the relay contact would
weld itself closed every now and again.

I have a GM engine, so I bypassed the starter relay, and went directly
to the solenoid. This has corrected that problem, but I’m still
concerned about the current draw from the keyswitch to the solenoid.

From: DHarr13177@aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 1996 09:38:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Jet Hot exhaust coating vs Hirsch

In a message dated 96-11-28 08:23:29 EST, canderso@felix.teclink.net
(anderson) writes:

<< Subj: RE: Jet Hot exhaust coating
Date: 96-11-28 08:23:29 EST
From: canderso@felix.teclink.net (anderson)
To: DHarr13177@aol.com (‘DHarr13177@aol.com’)

I tried the special exhaust manifold paint sold by Bill Hirsch on a manifold
that I had sandblasted for a new finish. Then I followed the exact
instructions listed on the paint can, carefully warming the engine only a
little at a time. After I finally warmed the engine to full operating temp
for a while, all the paint literally “floated” off and spead all over the
garage like black snow. Keith Anderson, Brandon ,MS ’ 66 OTS, ’ 67
OTS .

I hate it when that happens !! Did you ask for a refund ? But you only had a
few bucks into it.
I had the same results with $200 porcelain and the guy refunded only half
when I complained to Hemmings - like it was somehow partly my fault !
Hemmings did put some pressure on for me- they wrote him a letter asking
what he intended to do about my complaint. Only then did Prairie Auto
Porcelain refund . I told him I was going to let the Jaguar internet know
about him, and he said he didn’t care. Caveat Emptor !
Porcelain does look good, but doesnt last.
I believe British Auto USA is offering some porcelain manifolds that they say
they developed and will last. Has anyone tried them ?
Vendors don’t want to risk being dropped by Hemmings - so COMPLAIN when a
product isnt right !
I was tempted to try the paint but was won over by the JET HOT slick
advertising. Now they just need to develop a shiny finish.
Doug

From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 1996 09:58:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Battery Drain XJS -tricks

In a message dated 96-11-27 14:47:09 EST, JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim
Isbell) writes:

<< Is there something that might intermitently come on and drain the battery?

I had a problem like this with my '87 XJS.
What I did was disconnect the battery positive terminal and install a 12 v
light bulb between the bat. pos. terminal and the main cable. This way
whenever the short to ground occured the light would come on.
Using a very long wire for this light you can bring it with you into the
cabin and watch for grounds when you fiddle about with the wiring harness.
My problem was that some wires had abraded against the chassis causing
intertmittent shorts. Also some wires had melted together.
It took me a long time to find all this stuff. I remember making the wires
to the light long enough to reach my kitchen window. That way I could
monitor the battery drain as a function of temperature (cold nights) from the
comfort of the house.
Julian Mullaney

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 1996 09:57:57 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S starter problems

Tom: If you discover a way to remove the strter from a V-12 without
removing the exhaust, you will get some sort of prize I am sure, I just
don’t know what the prize is.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 1996 10:00:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Wheres the HP etc.

In a message dated 96-11-27 17:31:40 EST, you write:

<< Now my car before the headers were installed,I made a 2 1/2 inch system
all the way to the rear,with a balance pipe ,made a big difference. >>
Chad, how does yours sound compared to the original? I’m interested in this
but I like the quietness of my original too.
Thanks
Julian Mullaney

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 1996 10:01:29 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ6 Tie Rod Ends

Jan: I think 79 1/2. The rack for the XJ-40 is not at all like the
rack for the Series I-III cars, maybe that is why they fit,I don’t
Know.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044On
28 Nov 1996, Jan Wikstroem wrote:

Chad Bolles : You cannot use the earlier tie rod ends. The later car uses
a
smaller shaft on the tie rod.

Where’s the cutoff point for this? I have a '77 that I fitted XJ40 tie-rod ends
on with no trouble.
-Jan

From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 1996 10:05:03 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ-S starter problems

It’s tricky, but I ws able to remove and replace the starter on my '87 XJS
without removing the exhaust or header.
Julian Mullaney

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #552

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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 29 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 553

Re: Wheres the HP etc.
Re: XJ-S starter problems
Thanksgiving ( No Jag Content )
Re: XJ-S starter problems
Re: Battery Drain XJS
82 XJ6 III Steering
82XJ6S3 header tank filler leak
XKE engine spec’s
XJ6 to XJ12 conversion
Re: Battery Drain XJS
Re: XJ6 to XJ12 conversion
420’s in USA
XJ40 Vapour Lock
Re: XJ40 Vapour Lock
V12s and unleaded petrol
Battery draining on Jim I.'s XJS
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #552
Re: V12s and unleaded petrol
Re: 82XJ6S3 header tank filler leak
Fuel tank for XJ Series I
re: Re: 1992 XJS-V12 MAINT. MANUALS
Re: V12s and unleaded petrol
Re: Mk 2 Rack & Pinion

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 1996 10:12:18 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Wheres the HP etc.

Julian: It all depends on the muffler that you replace with. I happen to
like some sound and I got it with my system, and Turbo mufflers. I am
sure that you could build a system and get better flow and quiet at the
same time. My system used Euro head pipes that I remanufactured. My next
system that I am going to work on uses the original Cats, but with bigger
pipes, and will be in SS.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044On
Thu, 28 Nov 1996 Juliansean@aol.com wrote:

In a message dated 96-11-27 17:31:40 EST, you write:

<< Now my car before the headers were installed,I made a 2 1/2 inch system
all the way to the rear,with a balance pipe ,made a big difference. >>
Chad, how does yours sound compared to the original? I’m interested in this
but I like the quietness of my original too.
Thanks
Julian Mullaney

From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 1996 10:16:08 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ-S starter problems

In a message dated 96-11-28 10:02:29 EST, aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu (Chad
Bolles) writes:

<< Tom: If you discover a way to remove the strter from a V-12 without
removing the exhaust, you will get some sort of prize I am sure, I just
don’t know what the prize is.
Chad Bolles >>
I did it with several socket extensions and a universal joint, lots of
determination, a few nicks and cuts, and the tactile guidance of Helen Keller
(especially to replace it). I think I might have loosened a motor mount and
jacked the engine up a hair in order to get the starter out of it’s cubbyhole
after it was unbolted Seems like I remember the bolts were allen heads
instead of regular hex bolts. It’s been a while.
Julian Mullaney

From: blkcat@juno.com (Bill Kroeger)
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 1996 11:13:26 EST
Subject: Thanksgiving ( No Jag Content )

Just wanted to say Happy Thanksgiving to all Jag-Lovers

Bill & Lori Kroeger
1985 XJ6
E-Mail blkcat@juno.com

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 1996 10:36:33 -0600
Subject: Re: XJ-S starter problems

Someone said use a voltmeter to find where the drop is. There is an easier
way. But be carefull or you can burn yourself.

Try trhe starter for a few seconds then go around and touch every connection
in the circuit. The one that has high resistance will be warm or hot.

120 amps through .1 ohms produces 1440 watts of heat. (with a 12 volt
battery you will drop the entire 12 volts across the .1 ohm resistance at
120 amps and can’t possibly push any more through it.) A small soltering
iron produces enough heat to melt solder at 30 watts so be carefull.

The formulas are E=IR and P=EI where E is the Volage in VOLTS, I is the
currentin AMPERS, R is the resistance in OHMS, and P is the power in WATTS.

If the starter presented a dead short, which it doesnt, and you had .1 ohm
of resistance in the circuit somewhere, you could not get more than 120 amps
out of the battery because 12 volts of you available 12.8 volts would be
dropped across the bad connection. You want most of your 12 .8 volts to be
droped across the starter.

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 1996 17:54:15 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: Battery Drain XJS

Aparently some of you missinterpreted my current reading. I said .035 amps
or 35 milliamps. This is only one tenth of the current required to run a
bulb so I am reasonably sure its not a bulb that is staying on.

I re measured it and came up with a more accurate reading. It is actualy
only .024 amps. At this drain a 500 amp hour battery that was fully charged
would take 20,833 hours to discharge or approximately 900 days, or about 2.5
years! This is as long as the battery is waranted for anyway! So I dont
think it is being discharged by what I am reading. The culprit must be an
intermitent load of a higher value that I am not seeing when I measure it.

Hi Jim,

a 500 amp battery is highly unlikely in a Jaguar. There are two ratings
“normal” and “start” amps. I think the XJ-S might have a 60 Amp battery
(with a much higher starting rating), so this leaves you with 2500 hrs
or 104 days. But this would mean a full dead battery, so I would think
it might take about 2 months in your case and you might need external
help to start.

kind regards

- matthias

From: Dennis Beisswanger beiss@ix.netcom.com
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 1996 12:21:38 -0800
Subject: 82 XJ6 III Steering

Hello,

After replacing my steering rack bushes (OEM with OEM) it now takes
a bit more effort to steer the car and maintain the turns. It feels
like it’s fighting me. Tire pressure and belt tension are OK.
Thrust washers and spacers were replaced exactly as I found them.
The bushes on the pinion side were flush with the outside of the rack
mount; the replacements are sticking out about 1/32". I pulled the
rack down twice to do this(once to find out that the bushes were
too stubborn for my homemade tool) and it took some jostling. It took
some maneuvering to get it back in but I didn’t have to force it.

After I replace my tie-rod ends I will take it to the Jag dealer for
alignment. Will this help my hard steering?

Thanks for your helpfulness.

From: “Luis Magdaleno, Esq.” lm@bheaven.com
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 1996 10:43:27 -0800
Subject: 82XJ6S3 header tank filler leak

I noticed a leak on my coolant filler tank. The seam is=20
starting to separate slightly. I was quoted a price of $195 US,=20
which struck me as outrageous for a little plastic tank. I know=20
I will ultimately have to replace it, but in the interim do any of you=20
have ideas on how to fix it?

Happy Thanks Giving Day to all.

Luis=00

From: LALaw10@aol.com
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 1996 14:55:56 -0500
Subject: XKE engine spec’s

Greetings:

I was hoping someone could be of help. I’ve owned mostly Italian cars, and
I’m considering my first Jaguar. I’m looking at a 1969 XKE roadster (4.2)
the day after Thanksgiving (Nov. 29) and I’d like to run an engine cylinder
compression test and oil pressure test, but I don’t know the appropriate
readings for this car. If you know this information, please e-mail me back
at the address below.
Also, if anyone knows what to look for in the rear suspension, this
information would be appreciated.

Thanks very much,
Allen S. (Los Angeles)
LALAW10@aol.com

From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 1996 13:11:59 -0700
Subject: XJ6 to XJ12 conversion

From: Self
This sounds like fun! How does one go about it? I have an '85 XJ6
and the thought of an XJ12 has a decent amount of appeal. Does
anyone have details, or is it as straightforward as it appears?

TIA
Greg

            G. W. Price & Company, Ltd
               Santa Fe, New Mexico

Consultants in research, information management 
             and program evaluation
      Probabilistic Record Linkage Services

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 1996 17:58:44 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Battery Drain XJS

Jim: Try disconnecting the trunk light,it has been known to drain the
battery.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 1996 18:08:56 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ6 to XJ12 conversion

Gregory: This is just about a bolt in, in fact the engine is a bolt
in,you will need to make or find a rear trans mount. The hard part is
the wiring. You will need the ECU harness from an XJ-S,then find where to
put it. I am doing a 1976 XJ-12C for a guy converting it from the old
Bosch system to the newer HE electrics and engine/trans.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 1996 20:27:43 -0600
Subject: 420’s in USA

There was only one 1968 Daimler Soverign imported into the US. I inmported
it in 1984 and went through hell getting it in because they wanted me to do
a crash test on it since one had never been done.

I finaly got ahold of someone with Jaguar in NY who was willing to write a
letter to DOT stating that the car as essentialy the same as a 1967 420
which had been crash tested.

Even with that Ihad to do all sorts of modifications to the car to get it
in. I used my one “lifetime exemption” to get it through EPA.

Jim

“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil

From: “YOUNG, Neil (M06)” Neil.Young@qed.qld.gov.au
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 96 13:17:00 EST
Subject: XJ40 Vapour Lock

Greetings All,

A long term Jaguar acquaintance of mine is currently experiencing some
embarrassing difficulties with his XJ40.

Apologies in advance if this issue has already been covered. Maybe someone
could email the outcomes ? I am new to this list.

The car in question is a 1988 3.6 litre model in excellent condition. It is
driven daily and has been totally reliable until this summer.

On two occasions in the last week, the car has been starved of fuel and will only limp along at idle speed. After allowing it to cool for 30 minutes or so, everything gets back to normal and off he goes again. He has examined the car thoroughly and has found no problem with fuel delivery, filtration or pressure when the car is cold. However, when the car heats up (and the starvation symptoms only occur on the hottest days) , he has noticed that the fuel lines are too hot to touch and the fuel tank is very hot, due to recirculation of heated fuel through the engine bay. Both of us are familiar with vapour-lock, having experienced it on older vehicles we have owned (including other Jaguars). A discussion with local British Petroleum staff confirmed that they would expect fuel vaporisation to occur more easily at this time of year due to ‘winter-mix’ fuel (which is more volatile) still being used up at a time when the daily temperature is very high (35 degress C) with summer nearly upon us. As I write this, the main Jaguar dealer here in Queensland, Australia is seeking information about any mods that may have come into service to alleviate the problems he has. The initial reaction from the dealer was that they had not experienced this problem and did not know of a fuel cooler system ever fitted to these cars. Looking at the fuel delivery system on the car, it is easy to see how the fuel temperature could be quite high (particularly with the air-con switched on). Both of us are familiar with heat exchangers fitted to the air-con/fuel systems on older Jaguars and it may be that this will be the solution. To cut a long story short, has anyone seen a factory fuel cooler kit (heat exchanger) for XJ40’s or maybe one from a later model which may be readily adaptable - i.e., that it might look stock ? The alternative is that we will manufacture something suitable to remove what is an unnecessary problem in this day and age. Regards, Neil Young Neil.Young@qed.qld.gov.au 1970 XJ Series 1 From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com Date: Thu, 28 Nov 1996 20:17:46 -0800 Subject: Re: XJ40 Vapour Lock There is a dual fuel pump kit offered by the dealer for vapor lock problems with XJ40s. It was originally developed for cars in the Las Vegas and Palm Springs areas. At 01:17 PM 11/29/96 EST, YOUNG, Neil (M06) wrote:

Greetings All,

A long term Jaguar acquaintance of mine is currently experiencing some
embarrassing difficulties with his XJ40.

Apologies in advance if this issue has already been covered. Maybe someone
could email the outcomes ? I am new to this list.

The car in question is a 1988 3.6 litre model in excellent condition. It is
driven daily and has been totally reliable until this summer.

On two occasions in the last week, the car has been starved of fuel and will only limp along at idle speed. After allowing it to cool for 30 minutes or so, everything gets back to normal and off he goes again. He has examined the car thoroughly and has found no problem with fuel delivery, filtration or pressure when the car is cold. However, when the car heats up (and the starvation symptoms only occur on the hottest days) , he has noticed that the fuel lines are too hot to touch and the fuel tank is very hot, due to recirculation of heated fuel through the engine bay. Both of us are familiar with vapour-lock, having experienced it on older vehicles we have owned (including other Jaguars). A discussion with local British Petroleum staff confirmed that they would expect fuel vaporisation to occur more easily at this time of year due to ‘winter-mix’ fuel (which is more volatile) still being used up at a time when the daily temperature is very high (35 degress C) with summer nearly upon us. As I write this, the main Jaguar dealer here in Queensland, Australia is seeking information about any mods that may have come into service to alleviate the problems he has. The initial reaction from the dealer was that they had not experienced this problem and did not know of a fuel cooler system ever fitted to these cars. Looking at the fuel delivery system on the car, it is easy to see how the fuel temperature could be quite high (particularly with the air-con switched on). Both of us are familiar with heat exchangers fitted to the air-con/fuel systems on older Jaguars and it may be that this will be the solution. To cut a long story short, has anyone seen a factory fuel cooler kit (heat exchanger) for XJ40’s or maybe one from a later model which may be readily adaptable - i.e., that it might look stock ? The alternative is that we will manufacture something suitable to remove what is an unnecessary problem in this day and age. Regards, Neil Young Neil.Young@qed.qld.gov.au 1970 XJ Series 1 From: Mike Morrin mikem@southern.co.nz Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 21:15:15 +1200 Subject: V12s and unleaded petrol Can anyone tell me from which year V12s can use unleaded petrol without additives? TIA Mike From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com Date: Fri, 29 Nov 96 00:22:00 PST Subject: Battery draining on Jim I.'s XJS Jim wrote:
Is there something that might intermitently come on and drain the
battery?
Any ideas are welcome!!!

 .. and Hal replied:
 >Maybe a lamp is staying on...like under the hood or in the trunk?
 
 David adds:
 Check also the glovebox lamp, the switch was defective on my XJ6 
 and the light would stay on sometimes.  It drained a healthy 
 battery in 4-5 days.  Took me forever to figure this one out.
 
 David
 '84 XJ6 VDP
 '70 XKE 2+2

From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 10:06:09 -0800
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #552

Heck! If I knew this particular paragraph would re-appear, I would have
rectified it sooner. it should read “… I firmly believe…” not “…I’m…”
That was a result of a last second editing. Embarrassing, huh :-/

Baard : As for picking the right tyre, I’m firmly believe that Dunlop SP
Sport D7 215/70/15 is the one and only for my car, so I for one refrain from
experimenting further.

OK Jan,
On my other cars, even when bought new, I allways fit the “best/widest” tyres I
can get for that car, i.e. Pirelli P600 and 700s for my Opel Kadett GSI (130hp)
and Opel Vectra 2000i 4x4 (both sold) Kelly Safari 31/10.5/15 (=275/70/15) for
my MB G-Wagen and Continental 185/60/15 (on Porsche 356 rims) for Gine’s VW
Beetle.

To improve on the XJ6 Series I’s handling, I would have to fit lower profile and
wider foot-print (Most owners fit 205/70/15, so my philosophy has been
implemented also here). I don’t want the XJ to appear particularely sharp. I
want it to appear as a saloon thus it turns even more heads when it darts off,
and man can it move!! /

Later,
Bard

______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 08:13:41 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: V12s and unleaded petrol

Mike: All HE V-12’s. I think that they started in 1981.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044On
Fri, 29 Nov 1996, Mike Morrin wrote:

Can anyone tell me from which year V12s can use unleaded petrol without
additives?

TIA

Mike

From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 14:53:06 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: 82XJ6S3 header tank filler leak

I noticed a leak on my coolant filler tank. The seam is=20
starting to separate slightly. I was quoted a price of $195 US,=20
which struck me as outrageous for a little plastic tank. I know=20
I will ultimately have to replace it, but in the interim do any of you=20
have ideas on how to fix it?

Luis,

I had several times sucess in repairing plastic items using a electric
solder iron. If you have a access to one where you can adjust the
temperature I guess you should be able to fix it. It may take some
practice, but you can exercise on plastic containers etc. Be carefull about
vapours, they are toxic.

Let me know if you want more explanations

Kind regards

- Matthias

From: tonnes@sdata.no (Tonnes Ingebrigtsen)
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 16:07:33 +0100
Subject: Fuel tank for XJ Series I

Does anybody know if a later fuel tank would fit, bearings and
and all, on a series I (1972) XJ?

My left tank is rusted through from the inside, and the the tank
is no longer available from Jaguar. I can get a second hand one,
but am a bit reluctant. Don’t want to make a yearly ritual out of
this…

Tonnes

From: barnesl@naswi.navy.mil
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 96 9:54:47 PST
Subject: re: Re: 1992 XJS-V12 MAINT. MANUALS

Chad:
Great and Thankyou What do I have to do to get them?? Send you a
Check at?

	Chad Bolles Jaguar 
	South 306 Valcour Rd
	Columbia SC 29212

What about the cost of shipping, will $10 more cover it??

		larryb

- - - - Original Message - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
        LarryB: The 5 volume set of service manuals for the 92-93 XJ-S is $275.
        This covers the conv and coupe.
        Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044
- - - - End of Original Message - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 15:41:32 GMT
Subject: Re: V12s and unleaded petrol

In message Pine.A32.3.91.961129081153.32039C-100000@dasher.csd.sc.edu Chad Bolles writes:

Mike: All HE V-12’s. I think that they started in 1981.

Chad,
Is that ALL HE V12s or all US HE V12s ? Mine is a high-compression 12.5:1
engine and I’d love to use unleaded, given its thirst.

Regards,

Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 15:18:46 -0005
Subject: Re: Mk 2 Rack & Pinion

Tony:

Nedd commented that his guru was concerned about bump steer

We have been instaling the XJ6 short turet rack in our cas since 1988
after some engineering to avoid bump steer in the set up of the rack.

I gave a casual perusal of such a change while in Australia.

Bump steer is a function of the LENGTH of the tie rods (plus a few
other geometry considerations). With an unequal A arm suspension
such as Jaguars have, the length of the tie rod necessary to achieve
neutral bump steer characteristics should be something between the
length of the upper A arm and the length of the lower A arm,
probably in proportion to the location of the steering arm between
the upper and lower ball joints – IOW, pretty close to the length
of the lower A arm, perhaps a hair shorter.

With a rack-and-pinion steering system, the problem is getting the
rack SHORT enough to allow the tie rods to be LONG enough. With the
worm gear boxes, the tie rods can be attached anywhere along the
length of the rod that connects the two sides, so the designers can
make them whatever length they want. On the R&P, however, there’s no
way to attach the tie rods closer to the center of the car than at
each end of the rack.

Of course, the next question is whether or not you actually WANT
neutral bump steering or something other than neutral. With the
car I was looking at (don’t remember which model, it was one of those
old Jags) the owner had decided against any form of Jaguar rack as
being too bulky, expensive, and unreliable, and was in the process of
bolting up some form of Ford or Holden rack that was much more
compact. From my brief observation, I concluded that the resulting
change in tie rod length would probably make the bump steer CLOSER to
neutral than it originally had been. Based on this, I told the owner
(who was slightly concerned) that he probably had nothing to worry
about.

I must add that all of this is just the way I was figuring, I am far
from an expert on bump steer. I’d love to hear responses to this as
well as any authoritative dissertations on bump steer.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #553

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jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 30 November 1996 Volume 02 : Number 554

Re: V12 - Check your coolant circuits
Re: Fuel tank for XJ Series I
re: Re: 1992 XJS-V12 MAINT. MANUALS
Re: V12s and unleaded petrol
Big Cloud of smoke
Re: V12 - Check your coolant circuits
Re: Brakes S-type
Re: V12s and unleaded petrol: XJ12L
Re: XJ-S: Rough Running
Boot & Bonnet Support Cylinder Replacement
Re: Mk 2 R&P and Bump Steer
U-Joints??
[Fwd: Re: Jags Jags Jags]
Re: Big Cloud of smoke
RE: XJ-S: Rough Running
Failure Warnings
Re: Mk 2 Rack & Pinion
Mk 2 steering conversion response
Mk 2 Daily Driving

From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 15:18:47 -0005
Subject: Re: V12 - Check your coolant circuits

Stefan Schulz:

Look at the left thermostat housing. Find the hose that runs from it to the
overflow pipe at the top of the radiator. Tug at the hose where it is
connected to the thermostat housing. There will be a good chance that it
will come off easily, taking with it the little pipe that should be press-
fitted into the thermostat housing but isn’t quite.

Mine is OK. However, for the benefit of the XJ-S help book, I would
be interested in hearing from others; is this a common problem, or
does Schulz have a one-of-a-kind failure here?

It happened to me yesterday and my mind still boggles from seeing the sheer
unadulterated idiocy of the design. The piece of pipe the hose connects to
at the termostat housing is about 1/4" diameter, 1" long. It is made from
soft metal and changes shape easily. At time of manufacture it probably was
a press-fit but it lost that property long ago.

It may be idiocy, but it certainly is common. There are dozens of
similar press-fit connections on this or any car.

By the way, Jaguar don’t sell it as a separate spare part,
of course, they want you to buy the entire stat housing and a bit of
ancillary plumbing.

Of course! But why would you wanna buy a new part? It’ll have the
same design the old part did! Better to FIX the old part!

…tapping the hole and putting in a suitable
threaded fitting is what I’ll do WIGATI. Suggestions as to what type of
fitting to use are welcome.

Exactly the fix I would have suggested. Dunno what fitting would be
ideal, but finding such shouldn’t be a serious problem. Considering
the routing of the hose, you might wanna consider some type of
fitting with a 90 degree bend to it.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 16:15:13 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Fuel tank for XJ Series I

Tonnes: The later tank uses a fuel guage that goes in from the rear
top(behind the tail light), and has some return lines for the Fuel
Injection. You could plug them off an make the tank work, I believe.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044On
Fri, 29 Nov 1996, Tonnes Ingebrigtsen wrote:

Does anybody know if a later fuel tank would fit, bearings and
and all, on a series I (1972) XJ?

My left tank is rusted through from the inside, and the the tank
is no longer available from Jaguar. I can get a second hand one,
but am a bit reluctant. Don’t want to make a yearly ritual out of
this…

Tonnes

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 16:21:26 -0500 (EST)
Subject: re: Re: 1992 XJS-V12 MAINT. MANUALS

Larryb: I cannot get this from Jaguar till next week. I think that $10
should cover shipping. Checks will be made to" Jaguar South"
Thanks
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044On
Fri, 29 Nov 1996 barnesl@naswi.navy.mil wrote:

Chad:
Great and Thankyou What do I have to do to get them?? Send you a
Check at?
  Chad Bolles Jaguar 
  South 306 Valcour Rd
  Columbia SC 29212
What about the cost of shipping, will $10 more cover it??
  	larryb
Original Message - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
LarryB: The 5 volume set of service manuals for the 92-93 XJ-S is $275.
This covers the conv and coupe.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044

End of Original Message - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 16:34:29 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: V12s and unleaded petrol

Stefan: According to Jaguar Parts Catalogue XJ-S H.E. and XJ-S V-12
dated August 1987 part no. RTC9888CE, the valves for all H.E. engines and
the valve seats for all H.E. engines, are the same. Therefore based on
that info, I would have to say yes all.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044On
Fri, 29 Nov 1996, Stefan Schulz wrote:

In message Pine.A32.3.91.961129081153.32039C-100000@dasher.csd.sc.edu Chad Bolles writes:

Mike: All HE V-12’s. I think that they started in 1981.

Chad,
Is that ALL HE V12s or all US HE V12s ? Mine is a high-compression 12.5:1
engine and I’d love to use unleaded, given its thirst.

Regards,

Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk

From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 15:36:45 -0600
Subject: Big Cloud of smoke

I have noticed twice now that when I start my JX-S after letting it set for
several days that it throws a huge cloud of smoke (white, like oil) for the
first few seconds. The smoke then disapears and I am not having unusual oil
consumption.

On a “chebby” I would pull the valve covers and replace the valve stem seals and the thing would be fixed. But on the Jaguar engines they dont use valve stem seals. Am I looking at removing the heads to have the valve guides replaced? If I am going to have to re do the heads, what can I do to it to coax out more horsepower while I am at it. I assume that porting and polishing will be a good idea. What about cams. Exhaust cam I assume will be most bebificial. I want it to remain streetable and silky smoth, but I dont care if it gets louder, in fact I would prefer a louder exhaust note. Whats the point of having a V12 if no one else can hear it? If I could get it to sound like a flat head Ford with glasspacks I would be in heaven. I even have a pair of cast iron cutouts that I am planning on installing just aft of the cats with bypass pipes around the mufflers to the tail pipes. (Gonna leave the cats in, no sense in having the Feds mad at me, local cops is enough trouble!) Jim “Better an outlaw than not free.” Nance O’Neil From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 16:38:59 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: V12 - Check your coolant circuits KIrby & Stefan: Look in a brass box at a NAPA store, they have fittings that go down to 1/8 pipe, with 1/8th and 1/4 hose ends on them. Then drill and tap the hsg for the pipe thread,screw in the fitting and you are in business. Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044 From: “The Honjos” fm7m-hnjy@asahi-net.or.jp Date: Sat, 30 Nov 1996 07:11:43 +0900 Subject: Re: Brakes S-type Stein and Ted: iii) Brand new solid stainless cylinders from SNG Barratt Hy-Dra-Cyl advertised in Jag-Lovers Website also produces stainless cylinders and pistons. They also have an oversized version that, they say, provides more braking power priced @US$189. Regards Makoto Honjo Phone/Fax +81-3-3473-1848 From: “Roger Langley” lang0080@gold.tc.umn.edu Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 17:20:21 -0000 Subject: Re: V12s and unleaded petrol: XJ12L My 1976 XJ12L used unleaded as standard/required (USA car) Can anyone tell me from which year V12s can use unleaded petrol without additives? From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 18:12:22 -0005 Subject: Re: XJ-S: Rough Running Aaron Burnett: 1) I must pump the gas a couple of time to start the engine when it’s cold. Well, right off we have a problem. There is no carburetor and therefore no accelerator pump, so pumping the gas should do nothing whatsoever except wear out the linkage a little faster. OTOH, holding the pedal in any position other than idle when hitting the starter makes starting very difficult, it should be left at idle when starting. * freed the seized centrifugal advance mechanism I’m personally betting that you have some internal damage, probably a coupla burnt pistons. Sometimes the burnt pistons are still largely intact and result in symptoms such as yours. Shoulda freed the centrifugal advance sooner! * replaced several melted vacuum lines Vacuum leaks can cause engine damage as well. I am just about at my wits end. Checked compression yet? Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | - Palm’s Postulate From: cobac@ix.netcom.com Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 15:51:26 -0800 Subject: Boot & Bonnet Support Cylinder Replacement Hi all jag-lovers, Can anyone recommend a suitable replacement for the support cylinder that hold up the boot and bonnet of an 1989 XJ40? Mine don’t seem to have enough pressure to open up the bonnet, I have to push the lid up and hold for a few seconds. They seem aftermarket, and say Stabilus “Lift-O-Mat” on them. It would be a rip-off from the dealer (over $100) for something not even very genuine. I checked with my aftermarket parts place, and they sell the same exact make for all different cars and are reasonably priced (around $20-30). He can’t cross-reference a number for the lift cylinders, so I would have to use the dealer. It seems ridiculous, I never use aftermarket parts, but why spend the extra $$$ when the same brand is orginal for the car? Anyone have the part number for the after-market type, or place that sells them reasonably? Thanks, Eric From: Kroppe kroppe@mich.com Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 19:48:02 -0500 Subject: Re: Mk 2 R&P and Bump Steer “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu wrote

Bump steer is a function of the LENGTH of the tie rods (plus a few
other geometry considerations). … rest deleted

I agree with Kirby’s very good summary of bump steer. I am sorry to say
that my Vehicle Dynamics book is at the office (I’m enjoying a little
vacation at home), so I can’t give you a “authoritative treatise” on
the subject.

I did, however, find this at

http://www.mirafiori.com/~isaac/dave/s-terms.html

Bump Steer:
This happens when the suspension compresses, causing the control
arms and tie-rods to move vertically. Because they differ in length
and location, the result is the rim/tire being steered without any
movement of the steering wheel. Cars having control arms and tie-rods
parallel to the road will exhibit minimal bumpsteer.

Mr. David V. Voss is the author, and seems to be a Fiat enthusiast.
If I run across any SAE papers or any more formal discussions of this
concept, I’ll forward them along.

B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6

From: dneufeld@sanac.usiu.edu
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 16:17:02 -0800
Subject: U-Joints??

On my 87 XJ6, with 85,000 miles, at around 60-70mph (2500-2800rpm), I get a
low muffled oscillating noise, almost like exhaust leak noise around the
front end (engine area) which goes away if I take it out of gear and coast at
the same speed. I really can’t hear it when I’m stopped but reving the engine
at the same rpm. Can I still have drive shaft or front u-joint noise even
though its not there with no load? Whats the best way to test for u-joint
wear, enough to cause the noise - I guess I could turn up the radio??
Thanks Don

From: Doug Heinen povtybay@wolfenet.com
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 17:49:42 +0930
Subject: [Fwd: Re: Jags Jags Jags]

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Hello Group:

Here is a nice car for sale in the Seattle, WA area. Looks to be a fine
automobile for someone interested in an XJ-S. It is a 1979 amd has had
some good work done to it with all receipts available. Remember, I am
NOT the owner, merely passing this on for an aquaintance…

doug heinen

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Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 17:10:56 -0500
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To: povtybay@wolfenet.com
Subject: Re: Jags Jags Jags
X-Mozilla-Status: 0011

Hi Doug, thank you for your kind response. In a way I really hate to sell
the Jag. I have wanted and XJS, XKE, or XK120 for as long as I can remember.
Now that I have spent so much time and money on mine it is a shame that I
have to part with it. I have owned it for three years now and have driven it
less than 500 miles. Unfortunately all the work I had done ended up costing
about $3,000 more than the garage originally estimated. Seemed that it was
just one thing after another that they recommended I get fixed. By the time
I arranged for my XJS to escape from the garage the bill was up to $7,800. I
know somebody is going to get a really great deal when they buy this… I just
dont have an extra $3,400 to pay off my Ex. (I am asking $6,800 ) I would
appreciate it if you would let your Jag club know about the car. I really
have to sell it now. I realize this is the worst time of year to be selling
a car, so that is why I reduced the price to where it is.

Thank you for your kind offer to help, I really do appreciate it. And best
of luck in your search for a Jag sedan…

Joe Blanchard (206) 487-0288 Seattle Area

--------------467F121421B9–

From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 21:44:40 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Big Cloud of smoke

On Fri, 29 Nov 1996, James A. Isbell wrote:

I have noticed twice now that when I start my JX-S after letting it set for
several days that it throws a huge cloud of smoke (white, like oil) for the

I thought the rule of thumb was white = water vapor, blue = oil and black
= too much fuel.

Are you just blowin’ water vapor until things get warm?

louder, in fact I would prefer a louder exhaust note. Whats the point of
having a V12 if no one else can hear it?

A man after my own heart!!

John

From: Aaron Burnett aaron.burnett@attws.com
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 18:51:40 -0800
Subject: RE: XJ-S: Rough Running

Will check compression tomorrow. I too am worried about internal
damage. I did free the centrifugal advance within weeks of purchasing
the car. Unfortunately, I had no knowledge of the problem when the car
was purchased. The mechanics, who were Jaguar specialists, gave the car
and excellent bill of health after a pre-purchase inspection.

I also am aware that there is no accelerator pump. Nonetheless, the car
will no start without pumping the gas when turning the key – perhaps I
have a fuel pressure problem?

Thanks for the response. I’ll let you know what I find in terms of
compression.

Aaron

From: Kirbert[SMTP:palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu]
Sent: Friday, November 29, 1996 10:17 AM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Re: XJ-S: Rough Running

Aaron Burnett:

I must pump the gas a couple of time to start the engine when it’s
cold.

Well, right off we have a problem. There is no carburetor and
therefore no accelerator pump, so pumping the gas should do nothing
whatsoever except wear out the linkage a little faster. OTOH,
holding the pedal in any position other than idle when hitting the
starter makes starting very difficult, it should be left at idle
when starting.

freed the seized centrifugal advance mechanism

I’m personally betting that you have some internal damage, probably a
coupla burnt pistons. Sometimes the burnt pistons are still largely
intact and result in symptoms such as yours. Shoulda freed the
centrifugal advance sooner!

replaced several melted vacuum lines

Vacuum leaks can cause engine damage as well.

I am just about at my wits end.

Checked compression yet?

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

From: Tim Brown timbrown@shore.intercom.net
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 22:59:02 -0500
Subject: Failure Warnings

I Have a 89 XJ6 with a 3.6 engine, with 49,000 miles, well kept. I
recently aquired problems, Failure warnings!! When I turn the key to
the second position and press the VCM button I get Two codes:
1. Fueling Failure 8
2. Antilock Failure

The car runs great, plenty of power. What are the possible problems of
the fueling failure code. This fueling failure remains on the display
during driving periods.
The antilock brakes seem to work properly also, what should I check?

tim brown

From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 1996 00:45:59 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Mk 2 Rack & Pinion

Bump steer is a function of the LENGTH of the tie rods (plus a few
other geometry considerations). With an unequal A arm suspension
such as Jaguars have, the length of the tie rod necessary to achieve
neutral bump steer characteristics should be something between the
length of the upper A arm and the length of the lower A arm,
probably in proportion to the location of the steering arm between
the upper and lower ball joints – IOW, pretty close to the length
of the lower A arm, perhaps a hair shorter.

For double wishbone suspension, such as used on Jag’s, getting close
to neutral bump steer is pretty easy at the design stage… at least until
such things as oil pans and bellhousings get in the way. Longitudal to
the car, draw to planes. One using the logical inner pivots of the upper
and lower control arms. The other through the upper and lower outer
pivots (in this case, balljoints). The tierod inner pivot should lie
in the inner plane, and the outer pivot in the outer plane… such that
the height of the tie rod pivot is the same percentage of the distance
between the control aem pivots in each plane. and the distance behind
the axle centerline is the same.

This works fine on the “classic” wishbone suspension. But, alas, it does
not happen in the real world. invariably, the control arm axis are
skewed in three dimension space. This is done for things like bump
response (wheel moves back as it goes up) and anti-dive/squat geometries.
Thus, the tie rod needs to be skewed… and even so… it gets to be a
real bear.

the easiest way to deal with these situations is to place the tierod in
the same horizontal plane as one of the control arms… such that the height
percentage is either 0 or 100. The inner piot is put directly behind the
inner pivot axis of one control arm, and the outer pivot is put an equal
distance behind the ball joint, on a line parallel to the inner axis.
A look at most any current formula race car will find the steering set
directly in line with the upper control arms. Jaguar XJ* came really
close to, if not dead on, the lower control arm.

Oops, I’ve been saying “behind”. In front works the same.

And, of course, trying to include Ackerman (or anti-ackerman) muddies the
design even farther.

With a rack-and-pinion steering system, the problem is getting the
rack SHORT enough to allow the tie rods to be LONG enough. With the
worm gear boxes, the tie rods can be attached anywhere along the
length of the rod that connects the two sides, so the designers can
make them whatever length they want. On the R&P, however, there’s no
way to attach the tie rods closer to the center of the car than at
each end of the rack.

This is more of a problem with Macpherson struts, as the logical upper control
arm can be very long. ZF, as used on Lancia and Audi, came up with a
rather novel approach. The inner tierod pivots attach at the center of the
rack. To one side is the rack and pinion, to the other is the power assist
piston. This has the added benifit of moving the pinion housing towards
the outside… more in line with the driver. You may have noted that
a lot of small cars have the steering column offset towards the centerline
of the car, and/or angled towards the center.

– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate

Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net

From: Ken Wallace kwallac2@ix.netcom.com
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 22:06:57 -0800
Subject: Mk 2 steering conversion response

Thanks to all that have responded to my question regarding the adaptation of
the XJ6 steering rack to my Mk 2. Unfortunately, I seem to have gotten a
lot more questions than answers. So, I am still researching this and will
update you as I get the answers. The “off the shelf” kits are too pricey
for me. I imagine this is because the majority of the profit must go for
product liability insurance (no lawyer jokes please).

Tony form Vicarage Jaguar mentioned that they use the short turret rack.
Does this mean the long version will not work for some reason, or that the
short turret rack is a superior unit in some way? He further mentioned that
you must be careful to position the rack properly. It seems to me that you
would want the rack positioned so that when the wheels point strait ahead
the tie rods form a 90 degree angle with the steering arms. This way any
forces induced into the rack would not side load it and beat up the bushings.

Ned Blagojevic raised the question about “bump steer” on rough roads. By
this I think he was referring to the feedback of suspension forces to the
steering wheel. The kind that can break your wrist if you hit a pot hole.

I agree with B.J. Kroppe; that bump steer is a different phenomena whereby
the car’s direction is undesirable effected when a wheel hits a bump.

In any case, several responses assured me there was no problem with the
manners of the cars that have be fitted with this modification, quite the
contrary.

I will start our using the stock pump since that is the most economical
approach and the most original. There are only two variables here, volume
and pressure. If the pressure is less than the rack wants there will be
less boost than on the XJ 6. If the volume is insufficient the pressure
will fall off at times when rapid movement is attempted. Since I don’t
slalom race the car I am not too worried about that.

Stay tuned for more as we go along.

Can anyone tell me the minimum rear rotor thickness spec for the 62 Mk 2?
Ken Wallace

From: Ken Wallace kwallac2@ix.netcom.com
Date: Fri, 29 Nov 1996 22:11:24 -0800
Subject: Mk 2 Daily Driving

As a result of my questions about the rack and pinion conversion several
people asked me about my experience using the Mk 2 as a daily driver.
Mainly about engine cooling.

You won’t believe it, but I drive in heavy stop and go traffic regularly and
at ambient temperatures of 35 C. The engine never goes over 70 C. No sign of
boiling. I do not know if the radiator has been previously replaced with a
thicker core. I can tell you that the radiator core is 69 mm thick.

I have only been driving this car for about a year, but to date it has been
a faithful and true conveyance and companion. Having grown up with Jags
starting with the Mk 7 and owning a machine shop may have something to do
with my perception of the experience.

This is definitely a “character” car. It rarely fails to elicit a response
from those nearby and never anything but positive. If I were still a single
lad this car would definitely take me where I wanted to go, if you get my
meaning. Just what an aging baby boomer like me needs. My kids will not
ride in the Mercedes anymore when the Mk 2 is available. They especially
like to be dropped off at high school in it.

If you have any specific questions please ask. I love to talk about this car.

Ken Wallace

End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #554

Jag-lovers-digest V2 #485

Why dont we put into the FAQ a note saying, dont bring up “Lumps”,
“Splitting the list”, “Which car is pretiest”, etc. under threat of expulsion.

Neil Young

Neil Young

Michael

ever=2e

comes back=2e

source said that all the ground effects kits were shipped to the US=2c when=

REGARDS…Shane
* Forwarding note from SMTP4 --IINUS1 11/07/96 16:32 *

Dick White
Columbia, SC
'64 3.8 S-Type
'58 XK150 FHC

Cheers Lauren

This message was sent by Chameleon

The solonoids fit awfully tight I am wondering of there is too little room
and maybe adjustment is critical.

Regards,
Dick White

This is a resend, as the original appears to be lost somewhere in the
cyber-ether…

Drive a Triumph- Small but powerful cars for small but powerful people…

Julian Mullaney : 1) The thermostats are wide open all the time
(after
warm up) and the
engine runs at different temperatures based on load, ambient temp. speed etc.

Cheers Lauren

This message was sent by Chameleon

There is apparently a guy in Sarasota, Florida who makes leaping cats
for the XJS. If he’s out there or if anyone has a fax no. for him please
let me know.
Regards

Gen. Emiliano Zapata
1879-1919

=====================================================================
Bill Frenchu |“Back when I was a
wrf@pluto.njcc.com (609) 466-2604 | boy, we carved our
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/wrf | own IC’s out of wood.”

=====================================================================
Bill Frenchu |“Back when I was a
wrf@pluto.njcc.com (609) 466-2604 | boy, we carved our
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/wrf | own IC’s out of wood.”

Should be easy to diagnose, is the temp guage above the “N”?

stripdown=2e

REGARDS…Shane
* Forwarding note from SMTP2 --IINUS1 11/20/96 15:27 *

Graham Watson : But if you have evidence to back up your statement, I’d
really like to
hear it !

REGARDS…Shane
* Forwarding note from SMTP2 --IINUS1 11/21/96 04:57 *

Cheers Lauren

This message was sent by Chameleon

Regards,

Chad Bolles : You cannot use the earlier tie rod ends. The later car uses
a
smaller shaft on the tie rod.

Regards,

Jag-lovers-digest V2 #485

Why dont we put into the FAQ a note saying, dont bring up “Lumps”, “Splitting the list”, “Which car is pretiest”, etc. under threat of expulsion.

Neil Young

Neil Young

Michael

ever=2e

comes back=2e

source said that all the ground effects kits were shipped to the US=2c when=

REGARDS…Shane *** Forwarding note from SMTP4 --IINUS1 11/07/96 16:32 ***

Dick White Columbia, SC '64 3.8 S-Type '58 XK150 FHC

Cheers Lauren

This message was sent by Chameleon

The solonoids fit awfully tight I am wondering of there is too little room and maybe adjustment is critical.

Regards, Dick White

This is a resend, as the original appears to be lost somewhere in the cyber-ether…

Drive a Triumph- Small but powerful cars for small but powerful people…

Julian Mullaney : 1) The thermostats are wide open all the time (after warm up) and the engine runs at different temperatures based on load, ambient temp. speed etc.

Cheers Lauren

This message was sent by Chameleon

There is apparently a guy in Sarasota, Florida who makes leaping cats for the XJS. If he’s out there or if anyone has a fax no. for him please let me know. Regards

Gen. Emiliano Zapata 1879-1919

===================================================================== Bill Frenchu |“Back when I was a wrf@pluto.njcc.com (609) 466-2604 | boy, we carved our http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/wrf | own IC’s out of wood.”

===================================================================== Bill Frenchu |“Back when I was a wrf@pluto.njcc.com (609) 466-2604 | boy, we carved our http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/wrf | own IC’s out of wood.”

Should be easy to diagnose, is the temp guage above the “N”?

stripdown=2e

REGARDS…Shane *** Forwarding note from SMTP2 --IINUS1 11/20/96 15:27 ***

Graham Watson : But if you have evidence to back up your statement, I’d really like to hear it !

REGARDS…Shane *** Forwarding note from SMTP2 --IINUS1 11/21/96 04:57 ***

Cheers Lauren

This message was sent by Chameleon

Regards,

Chad Bolles : You cannot use the earlier tie rod ends. The later car uses a smaller shaft on the tie rod.

Regards,

Why dont we put into the FAQ a note saying, dont bring up “Lumps”,
“Splitting the list”, “Which car is pretiest”, etc. under threat of expulsion.

REGARDS…Shane
* Forwarding note from SMTP4 --IINUS1 11/07/96 16:32 *

Dick White
Columbia, SC
'64 3.8 S-Type
'58 XK150 FHC

The solonoids fit awfully tight I am wondering of there is too little room
and maybe adjustment is critical.

Regards,
Dick White

This is a resend, as the original appears to be lost somewhere in the
cyber-ether…

Julian Mullaney : 1) The thermostats are wide open all the time
(after
warm up) and the
engine runs at different temperatures based on load, ambient temp. speed etc.

There is apparently a guy in Sarasota, Florida who makes leaping cats
for the XJS. If he’s out there or if anyone has a fax no. for him please
let me know.
Regards

Gen. Emiliano Zapata
1879-1919

=====================================================================
Bill Frenchu |“Back when I was a
wrf@pluto.njcc.com (609) 466-2604 | boy, we carved our
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/wrf | own IC’s out of wood.”

=====================================================================
Bill Frenchu |“Back when I was a
wrf@pluto.njcc.com (609) 466-2604 | boy, we carved our
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/wrf | own IC’s out of wood.”

REGARDS…Shane
* Forwarding note from SMTP2 --IINUS1 11/20/96 15:27 *

Graham Watson : But if you have evidence to back up your statement, I’d
really like to
hear it !

REGARDS…Shane
* Forwarding note from SMTP2 --IINUS1 11/21/96 04:57 *

Chad Bolles : You cannot use the earlier tie rod ends. The later car uses
a
smaller shaft on the tie rod.