jag-lovers-digest Sunday, 1 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 555
XJ: Salisbury Final Drive Overhaul Tool
Re: Big Cloud of smoke
Hood Safety-latch Hint – XJ6 S3
Boot & Bonnet Support Cylinder Replacement
Re: Volunteering myself (Suit of armor at the ready)
re:failure warnings(XJ40)
XJ-S intake manifold gaskets…
Re: Mk 2 Daily Driving
Re: XJ-S intake manifold gaskets…
V12 Starter removal
Need Suggestion on Battery
Re: Jet Hot exhaust coating vs Hirsch
New Guy
Re: XKE engine spec’s
Re: V12s and unleaded petrol
Re: air intake mods (XJ-S)
Mk 2 Engine cooling and Transmission
Your Sojourn in Oz – Oil Coolers for RHD Mark 2s
Re: XJ-S intake manifold gaskets…
Re: V12 Starter removal
Re: V12s and unleaded petrol
Re: XJ-S intake manifold gaskets…
Valve stem seals (cfr.#554)----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 1996 03:16:32 -0005
Subject: XJ: Salisbury Final Drive Overhaul Tool
In going over the overhaul procedure for the final drive unit in the
XJ-S, I found there is a step where you must “zero” a dial indicator
on a special Jaguar tool, and then use the zeroed dial indicator to
determine if the pinion has been shimmed properly according to
dimensions marked on it.
This special Jaguar tool, 4HA, is apparently simply a block of a
particular height. Therefore, if I knew this height, and listed the
height in my XJ-S help book, it would save people from having to buy
this Jaguar tool when overhauling their final drive units.
So: anybody out there know what the height of this block is?
– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate
From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 1996 08:48:43 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Big Cloud of smoke
Jim: When you remove the heads and check the valve guides, do not forget
to check the valve stems, as they do also wear. When working on the
heads a good multi angle valve job will give you more HP. If the shops
in your area don’t have a clue,let me know and I will get you the angles
to cut on the seat and valve. Bigger exhaust will really help,but not for
just cruising,but when the pedal is to the metal. Do not forget to
install a balance pipe,worth about 10 HP.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044
From: Kyle Chatman kchatman@mail.coin.missouri.edu
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 1996 09:30:24 -0600
Subject: Hood Safety-latch Hint – XJ6 S3
Well, I may be the only jag-lover who doesn’t know this trick, or =
perhaps the only jag-lover that needs it, but if you often scrape your =
head on the safety-latch of the XJ6 hood then try this. Make a large cut =
in a tennis ball and slide it over the safety-latch when working on the =
car then stick it in the glove box when not in use. I saw this on =
Shadetree Mechanics and my aching head is much better now.
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 1996 09:34:48 -0600
Subject: Boot & Bonnet Support Cylinder Replacement
a suitable replacement for the support cylinder
that hold up the boot and bonnet of an 1989 XJ40? Mine don’t seem to have
enough pressure to open up the bonnet, I have to push the lid up and hold
for a few seconds.
They seem aftermarket, and say Stabilus “Lift-O-Mat” on them. It would
be a rip-off from the dealer (over $100) for something not even very
genuine. I checked with my aftermarket parts place, and they sell the same
I just bought two cylinders for the bonnet on my XJ-S from SICP for $19
each. I dont know if they are the same as yours, but I bet they have yours
at a similar price.
Jim
“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil
From: averill@earthlink.net (Steve Averill)
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 1996 08:59:10 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Volunteering myself (Suit of armor at the ready)
Gregory W. Price writes:
I ask you…
How many times have we seen the same old questions come up
time and again? Too often. It’s understandable, given that going through
the old archives to find the answer to your burning question is a royal pain.
I’m volunteering to help with a solution, unless someone is already doing
this.
The questions I have are:
- Is anyone already doing this, or is this already available in
some form?
I’ve been collecting stuff like this in a Filemaker Database. I have 348
items collected. I’ve been gradually backing up into some of the older
archives as well. Items are sortable by: Model, Series, Year,
Contributor, Topic, and Keyword. I try to avoid collecting stuff that’s in
Kirby Palm’s book and will tail off on older XJ6’s as James A. Isbell’s
“The XJ6 Jaguar from Bumper to Bumper” gets more complete. I DO have some
stuff that’s listed on Nick’s web site so there ARE some redundancies.
Mostly, I collect stuff that looks as if it might be useful to me at some
point in the future. As a result, I don’t have anything collected on
putting lump engines into Jags, though I DO have some transmission
replacement stuff…
-Steve A.
'67 E Type Coupe
'76 XJ6C
'91 XJ40
From: E2plus2@aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 1996 13:43:41 -0500
Subject: re:failure warnings(XJ40)
Tim: On 29 Nov you requested info regarding 89 XJ40 VCM failure codes. My
88 XJ40 (cost its weight in silver, worth its weight in copper) indicates
Fuelling failure #8: “Not Allocated. should this fault number be displayed,
a 6.8kilohm resistor fitted in place of a hot start sensor is faulty.” No
indication of where it is in the car. You will get a Antilock Failure
indication if the alternator is not charging i.e. engine not running. Happy
to provide the info, hope it helps.
Rex Henderson
(e2plus2@aol.com)
94XJS,88XJ40,87XJ6,72E-Type
From: “Connie Vloutely” connie_vloutely@macmail.git.gulfaero.com
Date: 30 Nov 1996 15:23:04 -0500
Subject: XJ-S intake manifold gaskets…
Happy Thanksgiving to all,
Since I had friday off, I started to do some prevetive maintenace on my car.
It’s a 1990 XJ-S. I wanted to replace the intake manifold gaskets.
The reason I wanted to undertake this task was to fix a exhaust leak at the
A.I.R. injector tube at cylinder 1#002#B.
A few months ago I asked the group about fuel injector noise. It turns out
that the intake gasket had broken at the forward end and letting exhaust gases
to leak out. This was the source of my “fuel injector noise”. The rigth side
gasket is developing the same problem.
The removal of the A.I.R rail and fuel rail with all 12 injector attached went
well. But when I tried to remove the intake gasket itself it was glued down
soild to cylinder head. It took a lot of elbow grease, time and gasket
softener to remove the gasket. For a gasket thats suppose to flake into
pieces it sure gave me a hard time.
I am replacing the heater control valve (it leaks), the rubber grommets that
surround the fuel injectors, vacumm hoses and fuel lines that will be buried
when I put everything back together.
I have one Question, Should I use adhesive when I put the new intake manifold
gaskets in place.
Thanks for help,
Connie
From: “The Honjos” fm7m-hnjy@asahi-net.or.jp
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 1996 07:46:08 +0900
Subject: Re: Mk 2 Daily Driving
Ken
You won’t believe it, but I drive in heavy stop and go traffic regularly and
at ambient temperatures of 35 C.
This one really stuns me. Don’t you even have an electric fan? Do
you have air conditioning on the car?
Regards
Makoto Honjo
Phone/Fax +81-3-3473-1848
From: Victor Naumann jagdoc@erols.com
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 1996 17:55:38 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ-S intake manifold gaskets…
Connie Vloutely wrote:
Happy Thanksgiving to all,
I have one Question, Should I use adhesive when I put the new intake manifold
gaskets in place.Thanks for help,
Connie
No, the gasket just sits on the manifold dry. I have never seen one
glued down before.
Regards, Vic
From: Peter Smith pjsmith@gil.com.au
Date: Sun, 01 Dec 1996 10:27:08 +1000
Subject: V12 Starter removal
My own recollection of this process is that it was the most fiddly and
nasty job I ever did. Getting the heat shield off was the work of
hours because there was just no room to work. I had to do it twice in
three weeks - forced to drive through some low floodwater & the starter
was damaged internally. Antone who did it without dropping the manifold
is worthy of Nobel Prize nomination!
Regards Peter Smith
From: “Quang Ngo” jaguar@gaianet.net
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 1996 17:58:34 -0800
Subject: Need Suggestion on Battery
Hello everyone,
The battery on my 89 XJ40 is dead. It’s a Delco battery that was put in
by the previous owner. I was in the bank today while my wife waiting in
the car listening to the music. We thought that it wouldn’t take too
long but we were wrong. When I came back to the car the battery was dead.
I went to Sears today and they have DieHard Gold batteries for $70. They
told me that these batteries are made by Delco. Should I use one of these?
Are there any better ones?
Temperature here in Fresno, CA is 47 degrees in winter and 110 in summer
if that does matter.
Btw, if anyone happens to know any independent Jag mechanics in Fresno
please
let me know.
Thanks…
_,'| _.-''``-...___..--';)
/_ \'. __..-' , ,--...--''' Quang Ngo
<\ .`--''' ` /' jaguar@gaianet.net
`-';' ; ; ;
__…–‘’ …–…’ .;.’
(,…----‘’’ (,…–‘’
From: DHarr13177@aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 1996 23:38:20 -0500
Subject: Re: Jet Hot exhaust coating vs Hirsch
In a message dated 96-11-30 20:34:20 EST, canderso@felix.teclink.net
(anderson) writes:
<< Subj: RE: Jet Hot exhaust coating vs Hirsch
Date: 96-11-30 20:34:20 EST
From: canderso@felix.teclink.net (anderson)
To: DHarr13177@aol.com (‘DHarr13177@aol.com’)
Doug, Do you recall the approximate cost of the Jet Hot treatment to your
manifolds? Do they advertise in Hemmings? If not, a phone # or address will
be appreciated. I’ll give them a try. By the way, in all fairness to Bill
Hirsch and his products, even though his manifold paint did not work for my
application, I did use his fuel tank sealer in my rusty MGA fuel tank 17
years ago, and it still allows no rust to escape into my clear fuel filter.
It works !
Jet Hot usually has big glossy ads in Hemmings , but I can’t find one in NOV
issue.
Their address is 1840 W Drake Dr, Tempe, AZ 85283 Call information for phone
They charged me $ 180 for both manifolds ( E-type )
From: Bob Hardison hardison@HiWAAY.net
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 1996 22:39:48 -0600
Subject: New Guy
Being a Jag nut for several years, I was estatic to find this web page.
By way of introduction, I bought my first Jag ( a '56 XK-140MC DHC,
which I still have) in 1973, and have owned a '71 Series-1 XJ-6(European
model), three Mark 2s, a 420 (S-type),and my current daily driver, a '90
Sovereign. I have loved and hated each in its own way, but I won’t be
without one as long as I can turn the key. I regret that I’ve never
owned an E-type, but I search daily for a Series 1 OTS. Someday…
I have enjoyed the mailings, and I have been sorting them into usable
threads, hoping to glean some facts I can use. I have already responded
directly to one member, but I should have posted to the list-members. I
await with bated breath any response on how to turn the “Check Engine”
Light off, since I’ve already changed the sensor called for with a “Fuel
44/ Fail 44” VCM readout. Disconnecting the dash panel fuse didn’t work
either.
Thanks, Nick for this page and your efforts to run it.
From: DHarr13177@aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 1996 23:46:48 -0500
Subject: Re: XKE engine spec’s
I think the person who asked about the specs initially really wants to know
if the engine is in good shape. A leak down test should be done.Compression
testing is much less sensitive.
From: Mike Morrin mikem@southern.co.nz
Date: Sun, 01 Dec 1996 19:19:59 +1200
Subject: Re: V12s and unleaded petrol
Chad,
According to Jaguar Parts Catalogue XJ-S H.E. and XJ-S V-12
dated August 1987 part no. RTC9888CE, the valves for all H.E. engines and
the valve seats for all H.E. engines, are the same. Therefore based on
that info, I would have to say yes all.
Using your logic, it would seem that all XJ-S engines are OK with
unleaded, as my June 1980 parts catalogue (RTC9878CB) shows no
alternatives for valves or seats, but does show catalytic convertors for
USA cars.
I neglected to mention in my original question that I was enquiring on
behalf of my 1975 XJ-S, as in the year or so since it last ran they have
taken the lead out of the premium petrol in this country (New Zealand).
Mike
58 XK150 FHC
75 XJ-S
From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 1996 01:26:31 -0005
Subject: Re: air intake mods (XJ-S)
John Goodman:
On my (unmodified) '89 XJR-S 6.0 It has different air cleaner boxes (part numbers SPE 1008 and SPE 1009 ) with large bore intakes. These take I believe the standard air filters and fit the standard intake manifolds. In other words it’s all simple bolt on improvements for any V12. This info will be added to the book. Even more interesting is a special very neatly designed radiator top crossbeam (part number SPD1164) which has quite large smooth oval air intakes incorporated in it. The air intakes in this crossbeam line up perfectly with the air boxes. Cool! Hard to tell just where there would be enough room for such a thing. I already have cold air inlets on my car, but I’m glad Jaguar finally figured it out as well. What I need is that 6.0 litre engine! It all looks very neat, but they are Jaguar sport parts and won’t come cheap !!! Question for all: What do the corresponding parts from the 1994-on 6.0 litre cars look like? Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | - Palm’s Postulate From: Ken Wallace kwallac2@ix.netcom.com Date: Sun, 1 Dec 1996 00:14:11 -0800 Subject: Mk 2 Engine cooling and Transmission You won’t believe it, but I drive in heavy stop and go traffic regularly and at ambient temperatures of 35 C. - Ken Wallace Makoto Honjo wrote:
This one really stuns me. Don’t you even have an electric fan? Do
you have air conditioning on the car?
I do not have an electric auxiliary fan although I think it would be an
excellent idea as an insurance policy. They are inexpensive and relatively
simple to install so, why not? I plan on doing this. Neither do I have an
oil cooler.
My car does not have air conditioning. One of the things that motivates me
to own the older car is the mechanical simplicity. Stuffing an air
conditioning compressor etc. into that already very tight engine compartment
would sort of defeat my purpose. I have noticed that cars that were
designed before air conditioners were common had window arrangements that
allowed the car to be driven at speed with the windows rolled down without
blowing the driver out of his seat or making so much noise you could not
hear the radio. In the Mk 2 I can drive very comfortably with the driver’s
window down at any legal speed. Personally, I would much rather do this than
use air conditioning. Of course heat in the low humidity environment of San
Diego may be more amenable to this kind of solution than in other areas such
as Japan.
Lenny Seidman Wrote:
- Is your car an automatic and if so how do you like it and what and
how should I expect it to work/shift/drive? The auto transmissions are
the same for the Jag and Daimler.
Yes, it is an automatic. My transmission works normally I believe. It is not
as smooth shifting as a modern transmission and the clutch drags at idle.
Apparently this is normal since the Jaguar engineers found it necessary to
include a special solenoid valve in the rear brake circuit to hold the
brakes on until the accelerator pedal is depressed. Although the book says
it should shift into low for starts from a stop automatically when drive is
selected, I find that it accelerates much better if I put it in low to start
off.
I have never been a “slush box” enthusiast and I plan to convert my car to a
manual transmission, preferably a T5 five speed.
- Did you replace your shocks and if so what brand did you use or could
you recommend any?
I have not had to replace my shocks. I believe the car has Koni shocks.
- What size battery( physical dimensions as well as catalog size) are
you using in your car and with what type of hold-down hardware?
I will have to measure the battery and supply the type number for you. It is
too late to do it at the moment. It is a common size. On each side of the
battery platform you will note a small hole in the firewall. This hole has
a captured nut behind it which is threaded 1/4" - 28 threads per inch which
is a standard SAE Fine. I made a steel strap out of heavy steel banding
tape from the shipping department where I work. It is not too hard to bend.
You could use plumber’s tape if you don’t mind the shade tree mechanic
appearance it gives. It is important to anchor the battery well because if
you do not, it will shift over against the engine and the side of the cam
cover will rub a hole in the case spilling acid all over the place.
- What kind and size of tires do you recommend?
I have not researched the optimum tires, however the tires on my car are as
larger as will clear the skirts at the rear using standard rims. I will
give you the size I am running along with the battery info.
Best Regards
Ken Wallace
62 Mk 2
From: “The Honjos” fm7m-hnjy@asahi-net.or.jp
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 1996 22:01:41 +0900
Subject: Your Sojourn in Oz – Oil Coolers for RHD Mark 2s
Kirby:
I gave a casual perusal of such a change while in Australia.
This part of your recent posting on the Mark 2 rack and pinion piqued
my interest. Did you see engine oil coolers installed on some RHD
Mark 2s (yes RHD not LHD) while you were in Australia? How had they
manouvered the adaptor location issue i.e., the issue of the tight
space between the engine oil filter and the steering box gear that
makes locating an oil cooler adapter in that area kinda difficult.
Did they solve the issue by relocating the oil filter?
Regards
Makoto Honjo
Phone/Fax +81-3-3473-1848
From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 1996 08:51:30 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S intake manifold gaskets…
Connie: Though you do not really have to seal the intake gaskets, I do
anyway. I use a non harding sealer that I get from a GM dealer part no.
1050026. I have spent almost 30 years racing automobiles and have found
that this sealer really does not get hard. On my race engine I have even
used the intake gaskets over again,cause they just peeled right off with
no tearing. I am sure somebody will say use silicone,but I have found
that removing it is a pain in the butt.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044
From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 1996 09:00:14 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: V12 Starter removal
Peter: Here Here go sir, I totally agree.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044On
Sun, 1 Dec 1996, Peter Smith wrote:
My own recollection of this process is that it was the most fiddly and
nasty job I ever did. Getting the heat shield off was the work of
hours because there was just no room to work. I had to do it twice in
three weeks - forced to drive through some low floodwater & the starter
was damaged internally. Antone who did it without dropping the manifold
is worthy of Nobel Prize nomination!
Regards Peter Smith
From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 1996 09:02:47 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: V12s and unleaded petrol
Mike: I think that our logic is correct.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044
From: Chad Bolles aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 1996 09:11:01 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S intake manifold gaskets…
Connie: I forgot to say in my last reply, when I told you to use the GM
sealer. In using it I have NEVER had a leak, and as I like to do a job
only once. And I build V-12’s all the time,so using my race car logic(if
it breaks you can not win)I seal them with the GM sealer.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044
From: martin.jacobsen@login.eunet.no (Martin Jacobsen)
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 1996 17:01:33 -0100
Subject: Valve stem seals (cfr.#554)
On a “chebby” I would pull the valve covers and replace the valve stem seals
and the thing would be fixed. But on the Jaguar engines they dont use valve
stem seals.
Jim says that Jaguar don’t use valve steam seals. Does it mean that it is
not according to manufac. spesifications, or does it mean that isn’t
possible/ recommendable at all?
Some days ago I asked if it is possible to do this operation without taking
off the cylinderhead (e.g. by using airpressure to force the valves in
position during the operation). I hope sombody can give me an answer.
Martin
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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 2 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 556
Valve stem seals (cfr.#554)
Latest version of the XJ6 book available
Re: Valve stem seals (cfr.#554)
Re: Valve stem seals (cfr.#554)
Oil Pressure Sender Substitution
Volunteers Needed
XJ-S: Starting/Running Problems
Re: Valve stem seals (cfr.#554)
Re: Valve stem seals (cfr.#554)
Thank You
Jag Lovers
Re: XJ-S intake manifold gaskets…
ABS Brakes -
Re: Valve stem seals (cfr.#554)
Re: V12s and unleaded petrol
air intake mods (XJ-S)
Magazines
Re: XJ-S: Starting/Running Problems
RE: XJ-S: Rough Running
Window rocker switches.
Re: Jag Lovers
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sun, 01 Dec 1996 10:15:54 -0600
Subject: Valve stem seals (cfr.#554)
Jim says that Jaguar don’t use valve steam seals. Does it mean that it is
not according to manufac. spesifications, or does it mean that isn’t
possible/ recommendable at all?
Some days ago I asked if it is possible to do this operation without taking
off the cylinderhead (e.g. by using airpressure to force the valves in
position during the operation). I hope sombody can give me an answer.
I am not the expert on V12s, that would be Kirby. I looked in my book and
the picture of the valve train showed no valve stem seals. By seals I am
talking about the rubber cups that fit inverted on the valve stem under the
springs.
I got a post from Kirby saying they did use them so I stand corrected on
this. My book still does not show then, but then it was published by Haynes.
Jim
“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sun, 01 Dec 1996 10:15:47 -0600
Subject: Latest version of the XJ6 book available
Kirby has my latest version of the XJ6 book up on his Web page. It now
includes David Shields substitute parts listing for the XJ6.
It may be up on Nicks page now as well, but I dont have confirmation of that.
I have one substitute part that is not on the list. I didnt want to put it
in the book till it was tried by someone. I will put it out here in case
anyone wants to try it.
The stock oil pressure sender costs $79 and up so this may be a good
substitute if it costs less, which it may not since I have not checked it
out. But from an pld issue of “Jaguar International Mag.” I found that a
Stewart Warner 12V Marine oil pressure sender will substitute in all Es and
XJs. I kind of doubt some of this since at least some of the Es used a
vibrating reed type of sender and the series 3 XJ6 uses a variable
resistance sender. Maybe both senders will work on one kind of guage, I
dont know.
If anyone wants to check out this I would like to hear from you.
Jim
“Better an outlaw than not free.”
Nance O’Neil
From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 1996 11:42:31 -0005
Subject: Re: Valve stem seals (cfr.#554)
Jim Isbell:
On a “chebby” I would pull the valve covers and replace the valve stem seals
and the thing would be fixed. But on the Jaguar engines they dont use valve
stem seals.
Martin Jacobsen:
Jim says that Jaguar don’t use valve steam seals. Does it mean that it is
not according to manufac. spesifications, or does it mean that isn’t
possible/ recommendable at all?
Before this conversation gets too far in the wrong direction, I’d
like to point out that the valve stem seals for the V-12 are part
number HR299 in the SICP catalog.
Some days ago I asked if it is possible to do this operation without taking
off the cylinderhead (e.g. by using airpressure to force the valves in
position during the operation). I hope sombody can give me an answer.
Dunno. I would assume it’s POSSIBLE, involving filling each cylinder
with rope on an upstroke to hold the valves in place while working on
one cylinder at a time. But I’m not entirely sure this would be the
EASIEST way to go about the task.
– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate
From: rone@sn.no (=?NS_4551-1?Q?Karstein_R=7Chne?=)
Date: Sun, 01 Dec 1996 17:23:57 GMT
Subject: Re: Valve stem seals (cfr.#554)
On Sun, 1 Dec 1996 17:01:33 -0100, you wrote:
Some days ago I asked if it is possible to do this operation without =
taking
off the cylinderhead (e.g. by using airpressure to force the valves in
position during the operation). I hope sombody can give me an answer.
I removed the intake manifold and used a pair of pliers to hold the
valves in position. It worked OK for me and I think I remeber it took
me about one day to get it done. If you want a further description you
can send me a mail or give me a phonecall on 22 79 52 50 (8 - 16)and I
will give you an answear i norwegian 
regards
Karstein=20
From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 1996 13:36:05 -0005
Subject: Oil Pressure Sender Substitution
Sorry about changing the Subject: header (a Bozo No-no), but the
original subject line talked about the latest version of Isbell’s
book being posted. Since he had two subjects in one message and I am
responding to the other, I felt it necessary to change the subject
line.
Isbell:
The stock oil pressure sender costs $79 and up so this may be a good
substitute if it costs less, which it may not since I have not checked it
out. But from an pld issue of “Jaguar International Mag.” I found that a
Stewart Warner 12V Marine oil pressure sender will substitute in all Es and
XJs.
Hmmm. Supposedly, one of the problems with using a generic sender on
the V-12 cars is that they use a 0-100 psi gauge while most cars use
a 0-80 psi range. What do XK-engined cars use? And which is this
substitute good for?
– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate
From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 1996 17:01:14 -0005
Subject: Volunteers Needed
Recently there was some discussion about whether or not assembling an
FAQ collection for this list would be helpful. As an extension of
that discussion – and in hopes of inspiring others – I am listing
here several things I think would be helpful if someone wants to jump
in.
Not that I’m unwilling to do things myself, but I already maintain
the XJ-S help book (which is plenty of work for me, thank you) and
there are a LOT of things listed here. However, I have found the
work I do on the XJ-S book enjoyable; hopefully, anyone taking up one
of the challenges below will have the same experience.
Several things for jag-lovers to consider doing:
-
Creation of additional sub-groups of jag-lovers. We have
XKE-lovers now, but we could certainly use a group for early sedans,
a group for V-12’s, a group for XJ40’s, a group for lumps, and
possibly even a group for XK8-lovers – just to name a few. -
As far as I know, Jim Isbell and I now produce the only two books
of their kind, for any car or anything else, anywhere. Similar
productions for other Jaguars and other enthusiast automobiles would
be valuable. A book for the XJ40, a book for early Jag sedans, a
book for the E-type (or maybe two – one for the six-cyl, one for
V-12), etc., etc., – all would be helpful and popular. -
I still hope someone will develop a system by which those of us
doing repairs to our cars can record the whole thing photographically
and make it available for others who plan on doing similar repairs.
At first I thought the video camera would be perfect for this; lots
of people have them, VHS tapes are cheap and easily duplicated,
shipping them is no big deal, and each tape holds LOTS of time (six
hours or more) along with sound so the creator can explain what he’s
doing and why. However, it appears that video wouldn’t cross borders
too well, since it seems that different countries use different
standards for video. They also cannot be conveniently transmitted
via the Internet.
Another idea might be to use the up-and-coming digital cameras to
take strategic pix, then combine with text describing the operation.
This has the disadvantage of still pix vs. video, and it also may be
more work to make – somebody has to type the operations out rather
than just talk about them on camera. But they could be sent over the
Internet or even posted on a WWW site.
Whatever, I think it would be a good idea for someone to establish a
“clearinghouse” for repair operations. That clearinghouse might not
necessarily KEEP all those tapes and pictures; perhaps it would only
keep the info on who has each one, so that one person preparing to
do an operation could be quickly and conveniently (and perhaps
automatically, via a WWW page) referred to the person who has
already done it and has the pix needed. There might be no real need
to establish any standards for video or pix, either; perhaps each
person doing a repair can create a visual record by whatever means
available to him, and anyone seeking a copy of such a record can
decide for himself if he can make use of what’s available.
-
I’m not sure whatever became of the suggestion to create an
online photo guide to which XK head is which, what colors they are
painted, and what cars they’re supposed to be on. Since I don’t
have an XK engine, I don’t really care. But this project apparently
would help the owners of the earlier engines, and there is also the
possibility that doing similar things for parts OTHER than XK heads
would be helpful. For example, we recently had a discussion about
how to tell a V-12 H.E. from a pre-H.E., and while the description
of the plugs was adequate a couple of photos posted on a WWW page
would work even better. -
Finally, it would be great if someone could find a way to
develop some offline PR for our group. The topics discussed here
should be valuable to many more people than just the 800 members we
have, and I’m sure my book and Isbell’s book would be appreciated by
far more Jaguar owners than know about them. Those Jaguar lovers who
also happen to be computer literate and online seem to be getting on
board and keeping informed, but there’s probably ten times as many
Jaguar owners out there who still don’t know what the Internet is or
how to get on, and getting the word to them is hard.
The various Jaguar magazines and periodicals always seem to have a
tech page of some sort. Perhaps the best tech tip that comes out of
our group each month could be submitted to these mags, along with a
note about where it came from.
I also really liked the T-shirt idea. If I ever attended any Jag
club meetings, I definitely would go for one.
– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate
From: Derek Hibbs Derek.Hibbs@wizardis.com.au
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 09:10:13 +1100
Subject: XJ-S: Starting/Running Problems
G’Day All,
I am still trying to solve my starting/running problems after 9 weeks. I
been following John Napoli’s problems with great interest and trying some of
my own ideas.
First, an observation - it was incredibly easy to clean the inside of my
throttle switch. I prised the plastic casing off the switch to reveal the
tracks and contacts. A light rub with fine paper and a spray with PCB
cleaner and then back together again.
Second, has anyone ever attempted a repair on a trigger unit? By that I mean
replacing the reed switches. I am unusure if I have a consistant make/break.
They want to charge me $250 for a replacement trigger unit which I think is
excessive for a PCB and two reed switches. Any thoughts?
Third, if the trigger unit is OK then my gut feeling is that I have an
intermittent short or open circuit somewhere. Is there a common place where
the wiring loom between the engine bay and ECU chaffes?
Thanks in advance.
Regards,
Derek Hibbs
77 BRG XJ-S, 5.3lt EFI V12
“Even when it’s broken, my XJ-S still looks great sitting in the garage.”
Wizard Information Services Pty Ltd Canberra, Australia
Ph: 61+ 6 2750750 Fax: 61+ 6 2750777
Email: Derek.Hibbs@wizardis.com.au WWW: http://wizardis.com.au/~derekh
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
From: Chad Bolles <aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu>
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 1996 17:07:36 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Valve stem seals (cfr.#554)
Martin: There are some people on this BB who do not build V-12 engines, I do
and part no EAC5032 is the valve stem seal for the intake valve. You do
not use a seal on the exhaust.
If you take your time, I see no reason that you cannot replace the seals
with the head on the car. JUST make SURE you do not turn the engine.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044
------------------------------
From: Chad Bolles <aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu>
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 1996 17:14:30 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Valve stem seals (cfr.#554)
Kirby: NO NO NO DO NOT use the rope trick, as it involvs turning the
engine,which is RISKY at best. Use the air pressure proceedure, as the
valve spring tension is not that high,all you need is a tool to compress
the spring.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044
------------------------------
From: Chad Bolles <aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu>
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 1996 17:23:26 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Thank You
To Jim, John and all who asked about my Mother. Mom passed away today at
1250hours, just like she said she was going to do. I was with her when
she took her last breath. She is now at peace and no longer in pain. She
is now with GOD.
She did keep her sense on humor till the last, she said when she gets to
heaven she will know it OJ is guilty or not,so she said at her funeral,
one knock means not guilty and two knocks means guilty.
Thanks again to all who cared.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044
------------------------------
From: JDolan7747@aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 1996 18:12:40 -0500
Subject: Jag Lovers
Hi,
My Jag is a '90 XJS V12.
The car has covered 104,000 miles but only 2,000 of these have been by me.
Apart from a few gremlins in the electrics and the odd problem with the
power steering the car is mint.
I would like to contact owners of similar vehicles, especially those owners
with experience of the above!.
John.
------------------------------
From: ajbeale@squirrel.com.au (A.J. Beale)
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 09:24:45 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S intake manifold gaskets...
I agree with Chad Bolles on the use of a non-setting gasket cement for
intake manifold gaskets and wouldn't consider installation without it. I
don't know the GM product, but have used both Rolls Royce and Permatex and
had no leaks and no trouble on dismantling. Alan
------------------------------
From: Rod Farmer <100646.664@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 01 Dec 96 18:32:18 EST
Subject: ABS Brakes -
ABS brakes - Jaguar XJ40 -1988 -British model - (Daimler Soverign)
I have already asked the question, 'can anyone help with my ABS problem' the
ABS system 'chatters' just as the car stops. This happens in forward or reverse.
The car is a 1988 Jaguar XJ40 with self leveling rear suspention. I mention that
as I believe that the ABS pump and the self leveling pump have something in
conmmon (is it one and the same?).
It happens when braking normally, that is quite a gentle pedal action. I can
hear a noise like an electric hammer drill going into a brick which comes from
under the bonnet (hood) and feel the slight judder through the brake pedal.
My garage have a lot of experience working on Jaguars, however they are still
stuck on this problem. :(
I have had a few sugestions, for which I am very greatful. One has sugested
changing the fluid which operates the ABS system. I have not tried this as yet,
my garage people tell me it is not a simple job as the wheel all come off and
there is a lot of messing about. Not such a simple job?
Others hve sugested removing and cleaning the sensors. I think the garage have
tried this, but I realy would like to check it out myself. I'm a reasonable
mechanic, however, this car is new to me, so I don't have much experience with
it.
Any tips on the sensors, fluids, pumps etc or explanations of how they all work
would be most welcome. Any ideas on a connection between self leveling
suspention and ABS ???
Could it be electronics playing up? How do's the ABS training system actualy
work? :(
Thanks to those who have already been in touch, and thanks in antisipation to
those who take the trouble to get back to me. :)
------------------------------
From: Mike Morrin <mike_morrin@tait.co.nz>
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 12:56:15 +1300
Subject: Re: Valve stem seals (cfr.#554)
I am not an expert on this, but about 10 years ago when I rebuilt my
XJ-S, I found 12 rubber seals in an O-ring kit. They looked just like
valve stem seals, but I am sure there were none in the engine when I
stripped it down.
I think that they are shown in the parts catalogue, (but it is not clear
where they go in the assembly) but are not mentioned in the service
manual.
In desparation, I asked the head of the service department of the local
Jaguar agency, and he said they normally just threw them away. I did
this, but have since regretted it, as my engine blows a cloud of oil
smoke after it has been sitting for a few days.
regards,
Mike
1958 XK150 FHC
1975 XJ-S
------------------------------
From: Jan Wikstroem <Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au>
Date: 2 Dec 96 10:17:59
Subject: Re: V12s and unleaded petrol
All V12s can handle unleaded as regards valve seat material; the only issue is
*which* unleaded. My XJ12L with 7.8:1 cr runs fine on regular unleaded, the
XJ12C with 9:1 cr feels sluggish on regular unleaded and detonates very badly
at high revs and open throttle. If I wanted to pay the 10cents/litre extra, I'd
run it on premium unleaded; as long as leaded super is available, I'll use that
(at an extra 2.2 c/L). I never drive into the City, so my pollution conscience
is relatively clean...
- -Jan
------------------------------
From: John Goodman <101547.1141@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 01 Dec 96 20:01:08 EST
Subject: air intake mods (XJ-S)
==========
Cc: palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Anyone considering air intake modifications as in Kirby's book then the
following information may be of use, and may justify inclusion in the
relevant section.
On my (unmodified) '89 XJR-S 6.0 It has different air cleaner boxes
(part numbers SPE 1008 and SPE 1009 ) with large bore intakes. These
take I believe the standard air filters and fit the standard intake
manifolds. In other words it's all simple bolt on improvements for any
V12.
Even more interesting is a special very neatly re - designed radiator
top crossbeam (part number SPD1164) which has quite large smooth oval
air intakes incorporated into it. The air intakes in this crossbeam line
up perfectly with the air boxes.
It all looks very neat, but they are Jaguar sport parts and won't come
cheap !!!
P.S. Still trying to find my intermittent engine cutting out problem !
John Goodman
Using Virtual Access
http://www.ashmount.com
Using Virtual Access
http://www.ashmount.com
------------------------------
From: Red90Jag@aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 1996 20:09:28 -0500
Subject: Magazines
Hi Folks;
Does anybody know of a good monthly Jaguar Magazine worth subscibing to?
I'm looking for a magazine that will accomplish two things!
1) Give me alittle info on Companies available to pick-up some catalogs &
other Jaguar info.
2) ( This is the real reason) To help get me through the next few months
while my 1990 XJ-6 is warmly tucked away for the winter !
Any magazine names & where I might be able to find them, would really be
appreciated.
thanks again
Dave Teta
Dunkirk, NY
------------------------------
From: Jan Wikstroem <Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au>
Date: 2 Dec 96 11:13:01
Subject: Re: XJ-S: Starting/Running Problems
Derek, you need to watch it with the trigger unit. The manual says it has reed
switches, but my two ('77 and '78) have Hall effect switches and the test
procedure in the workshop manual doesn't work.
I've had a contact problem with the three-pin connector behind the distributor,
which had the engine running on one group = six cylinders (as one exhaust pipe
had chosen that moment to snap off, it sounded rather like a mobile gun battle.
But I got home <G>...).
One problem I've had on both cars is an intermittent break in one of the three
ignition trigger wires coming out the front of the distributor, right in the
moulded grommet. This seems inherent to the design, as the big, heavy three-pin
connector flops around on loose wires and should cause metal fatigue as the
wire bends back and forth. I have replaced the wires on the XJC (solder joints
inside the distributor) and applied spade connectors instead of the three-pin
job. I am about to apply the same cure to the XJ12L, which suffers from the
same problem.
- - Jan
------------------------------
From: Jan Wikstroem <Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au>
Date: 2 Dec 96 11:18:18
Subject: RE: XJ-S: Rough Running
"Pumping" the accelerator during cranking seemed to work on one occasion when
the cold start injectors on my XJ12L suffered a bout of Lucasosis. A possible
way for this to function is that the "I want to accelerate" signal gets the ECU
to enrich the mixture. Of course, a sophisticated ECU would say "bullshit,
you're not even running yet", but how sophisticated is the Lucas/Bosh
K-Jetronic ECU?
- -Jan
------------------------------
From: Paul Brand <paulbr@atiaust.com.au>
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 12:34:33 +1100
Subject: Window rocker switches.
Hello All,
has any one used a 3rd party relpacement part for the electric window
switches, orginals are fine but @ Australian $50 - $90 they are pretty steep.
Cheers
Paul
'74 XJ12L
------------------------------
From: Chad Bolles <aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu>
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 1996 21:35:27 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Jag Lovers
John: I had 200,000 on my 83 car before I started making big changes.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044On
Sun, 1 Dec 1996 JDolan7747@aol.com wrote:
> Hi,
> My Jag is a '90 XJS V12.
> The car has covered 104,000 miles but only 2,000 of these have been by me.
> Apart from a few gremlins in the electrics and the odd problem with the
> power steering the car is mint.
> I would like to contact owners of similar vehicles, especially those owners
> with experience of the above!.
> John.
>
------------------------------
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #556
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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 2 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 557
FW: XJ-S: Rough Running
RE: Window rocker switches.
Window rocker switches.
Electric Windows
Jack points
how i found my jag
Re: ABS Brakes -
Re: FW: XJ-S: Rough Running
Slipping '75XJ6 transmission
Re: leak down test
XJ-S: Headlights
Re: Electric Windows
Re: XJ-S: Rough Running
Re: Boot & Bonnet Support Cylinder Replacement
XJS loosing coolant
6-12 conversion / Smoking Jim
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Aaron Burnett <aaron.burnett@attws.com>
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 1996 18:45:08 -0800
Subject: FW: XJ-S: Rough Running
I have forwarded the original message below as background to my current
situation. But to recap, I am trying to track down the source of a
rough idle in my '85 XJ-S.
After receiving advice from other list members to:
1) Check the Throttle Position Sensor
2) Check Compression
3) Check fuel system
4) Check ignition system
So today I checked the TPS and engine compression. While checking the
TPS with an ohmmeter, I found the internal contacts seem to be intact --
the needle on the meter moved smoothly as I rotated the TPS. However, I
also found that the TPS showed 5 volts at idle -- substantially
different than the 3.2V - 3.8V I was expecting. I attempted to adjust
the TPS in the manner outlined in Kirby's book, but found that the
minimum figure I could attain was 4.35V. The TPS could not be turned
further on the three small mounting screws that hold it. Any ideas why
I might get this kind of reading? Any suggestions as to how to rectify
the situation? Might this mean I DO have a bad TPS?
I checked several bullet connectors and found that one of the
bullet/sleeve combinations between the pick-up module and the ignition
amplifier was suspect. When disconnected, both the bullet and the
sleeve were covered with some sort of glaze, different from corrosion I
have seen on other connections, but still severely impeding continuity
(I had to scratch the surface of the sleeve to get any reading at all on
my ohmmeter). I cleaned and re-assembled.
Next, I did a compression test. The results I got both concern and
confuse me. They are as follows:
1B = 149lbs 1A = 135lbs
2B = 152lbs 2A = 144lbs
3B = 149lbs 3A = 141lbs
4B = 146lbs 4A = 138lbs
5B = 146lbs 5A = 146lbs
6B = 150lbs 6A = 141lbs
My car is an H.E. and so, according to Kirby's book, I should be seeing
readings in the 200-220lb range. But these results correspond closely
to a pre-H.E. engine for which readings are expected to be between 130
and 150lbs.
Again, any ideas? Why are these readings so low? Anyone else done a
compression check on an '85 XJ-S? Is it really possible that my engine
is SO worn?
Also, I understand that the readings should be fairly close to one
another. How close is fairly close (e.g. 1A vs 6B)?
As always, all information is appreciated greatly.
Aaron
'85 XJ-S
>----------
>From: Aaron Burnett[SMTP:aaron.burnett@mccaw.com]
>Sent: Monday, November 25, 1996 2:54 PM
>To: 'jag-lovers@sn.no'
>Subject: XJ-S: Rough Running
>
>I have an '85 XJ-S that runs rough at idle. I also have noticed that
>when I increase engine RPM while in neutral, the engine continues to run
>slightly rough -- not extremely, but enough to REALLY FRUSTRATE me and
>to let me know that something is not quite right.
>
>I'll give all of the symptoms that I believe may be relevant:
>
>1) I must pump the gas a couple of time to start the engine when it's
>cold. When it starts, it slowly increases RPM over the first 5 seconds
>until it reaches proper RPM (Approx. 1050 cold).
>
>2) The engine runs slightly rough at idle whether cold or hot. The
>slight misfire occurs on either bank (determined by feeling exhaust
>pulses at tail pipes). This tells me it is not specific to a single
>cylinder, but could be caused by something common, like the coils.
>
>3) The miss does not occur regularly or cyclically. Again, I am
>assuming that this indicates the problem is not specific to a single
>cylinder.
>
>4) Acceleration seems good, but then I don't know that I ever have
>driven an XJ-S that is running perfectly. So I'm not sure of my
>assessment.
>
>
>I know that all XJ-S tend to stumble at idle -- that is not what I mean.
> When I first got the car it stumbled, this is different. It is running
>slightly rough. (The weird thing is that, every once in a while, it
>seems to run pretty smoothly! -- then it goes right back to slightly
>rough running)
>These are the repairs I have carried out in pursuit of a fix:
>
>* re-wired the EFI harness
>* freed the seized centrifugal advance mechanism
>* re-timed the engine
>* replaced the HEI module in the ignition amplifier
>* replaced the exhaust manifold gaskets
>* replaced several melted vacuum lines
>* rewired the ignition circuit
>* replaced all plugs and wires
>* replaced air filters
>* replaced oxygen sensors
>* tested exhaust back-pressure to ensure that catalytic converters are
>not plugged
>* replaced the induction manifold gaskets
>* replaced the fuel injector O-rings
>* run "Slick 50" injector cleaner through the fuel system
>
>I am just about at my wits end. The things I now can think of doing are
>the following:
>
>re-wire the circuit between the pick-up module and the ignition
>amplifier in the event that these wires have become broken and caused
>too much resistance
>
>replace the secondary ignition coil
>
>remove the injector rack and take it to a fuel injection shop so they
>can test the injectors
>
>
>Any advice or suggestions will be HUGELY appreciated. None of these
>options are inexpensive, so I don't want to replace parts simply because
>I don't know what else to do next.
>
>Please help.
>
>Aaron
>'85 XJ-S
>
>
>
------------------------------
From: John Setters <john_setters@eagle.co.nz>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 16:08:46 +1300
Subject: RE: Window rocker switches.
You will find that the originals are easily serviced.
They are simply clipped together with no glue and with care can be
dismantled.
The failure mode is generally soot (carbon type) build up on the
contacts.
Simply cleaning the contacts and then snapping the switch back together,
reinstalling and all is well again.
I have done both of my XJS ones recently and now they operate as good as
new.
Cost about 15 minutes each !!!
******************************************************
John Setters
Desktop Mapping Consultant
Eagle Technology Group Ltd
110 Symonds Street
Auckland
New Zealand
Ph +64 +09 300 3400 Fax +64 +09 300 3420
Email john_setters@eagle.co.nz
http://www.eagle.co.nz
******************************************************
>----------
>From: Paul Brand[SMTP:paulbr@atiaust.com.au]
>Sent: Monday, 2 December 1996 01:34
>To: jag-lovers@sn.no
>Subject: Window rocker switches.
>
>
>Hello All,
>
>has any one used a 3rd party relpacement part for the electric window
>switches, orginals are fine but @ Australian $50 - $90 they are pretty
>steep.
>
>
>Cheers
>Paul
>'74 XJ12L
>
>
------------------------------
From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Sun, 01 Dec 96 22:33:32 EST
Subject: Window rocker switches.
From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
*** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FE21
*** INTERNET - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM *** IBMMAIL - AUIBMSPM ****
Subject: Window rocker switches.
Paul, I have found a beauty for $10, that involves using the outside
casing of the old switch, and sliding this new switch inside it and
superglueing it. Don't have the part number or make with me, but will
try and look for it for you.
***************************************************************
***************************************************************
REGARDS.......Shane
*** Forwarding note from SMTP4 --IINUS1 12/02/96 12:57 ***
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Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 12:34:33 +1100
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
From: Paul Brand <paulbr@atiaust.com.au>
Subject: Window rocker switches.
Sender: owner-jag-lovers@sn.no
Precedence: bulk
Hello All,
has any one used a 3rd party relpacement part for the electric window
switches, orginals are fine but @ Australian $50 - $90 they are pretty steep.
Cheers
Paul
'74 XJ12L
------------------------------
From: John Setters <john_setters@eagle.co.nz>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 16:37:23 +1300
Subject: Electric Windows
How often do you do this.....pull up, switch off, take out the key, then
find the window is still down ?
Would it be possible to link power to the window switches via the
interior light / aerial delay circuitry
so that the windows could be closed after switch off ?
Is any body else bothered by this ?
Is it feasible ?
Has this idea ever been implemented ?
I have to roll down my window to use my carpark access key each morning
and about every third
day I forget park and switch off before closing the windows again. I
know I'm a slow learner but hey !
Would this be considered an improvement or sacrilege ?
Regards, JKS-XJS
******************************************************
John Setters
Desktop Mapping Consultant
Eagle Technology Group Ltd
110 Symonds Street
Auckland
New Zealand
Ph +64 +09 300 3400 Fax +64 +09 300 3420
Email john_setters@eagle.co.nz
http://www.eagle.co.nz
******************************************************
------------------------------
From: Steph14755@aol.com
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 1996 23:06:13 -0500
Subject: Jack points
I just purchase and 71 E- type. I have no manuals or information on the car
other than Clymer's. Where are the Jack points on the car? Thanks.
------------------------------
From: brett ferguson <howard@calweb.com>
Date: Sun, 01 Dec 1996 20:52:28 -0800
Subject: how i found my jag
There she was, where I least expected to see the car of my fantasies since a youth of
16, black and beautiful, glinting in the harsh flourescent light of the body shop. My
heart raced and my palms began to sweat as I dared to even imagine that she could
possibly ever be mine. As I got closer to her magnificent curves I could smell her
redolence of leather, gas and oil. Now I was in heaven and knew that i had to possess
her.
I off-handedly asked the shop owner if she were for sale. When he replied that the
owner had left her there for a paint job prior to putting her on the market my head
began to swim with visions of her in my garage and of people turning heads to stare at
her wherever we went. Alright, I thought, so she's for sale. probably at least 50,000
for her. I was sure that she would be more than I could spare even for such a beauty.
OK, "so how much is she" I asked. "Well, he'd probably let her gor for 25,000, but I
can't promise that price." OK, now I was excited. I began to conjure up ways of juggling
some money around so that I could swing the 25,000. At some point I realized that this
price was too good to be true. But still... TO BE CONTINUED
------------------------------
From: Randy Wilson <randy@taylor.infi.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Dec 1996 23:56:06 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: ABS Brakes -
>
>
>ABS brakes - Jaguar XJ40 -1988 -British model - (Daimler Soverign)
>
>I have already asked the question, 'can anyone help with my ABS problem' the
>ABS system 'chatters' just as the car stops. This happens in forward or reverse.
>The car is a 1988 Jaguar XJ40 with self leveling rear suspention. I mention that
>as I believe that the ABS pump and the self leveling pump have something in
>conmmon (is it one and the same?).
>
>I have had a few sugestions, for which I am very greatful. One has sugested
>changing the fluid which operates the ABS system. I have not tried this as yet,
>my garage people tell me it is not a simple job as the wheel all come off and
>there is a lot of messing about. Not such a simple job?
Changing the "ABS" fluid is changing the brake fluid. Effectively, it is
nothing more than a through brake bleeding... to totally replace the old fluid
with fresh stuff. This needs to be done every two years, and you must use
DOT 4 fluid. The reason for all this is moisture... brake fluid loves water,
DOT 4 less than DOT 3. Absorbed moisture is bad for a brake system. It is
dangerous in an ABS system. Not only from the corrosion point, but also due
to localized boiling... the localized fluid velocities and pressure changes
in an activated ABS valve block are fearsome.
>
>Any tips on the sensors, fluids, pumps etc or explanations of how they all work
>would be most welcome. Any ideas on a connection between self leveling
>suspention and ABS ???
The connection between the actual ABS system and the self-leveling is ZERO.
The brake power assist shares it's pump with the suspension.
While the problem could be you have a sensor that drops out at low speed, I
would think that the dynamic self-test would pick this up. The very first
thing I would look at is the tires. Are all four the same size? And I don't
just mean 205/70-15... as brand x can differ coniderably from brand y. Are
they the same rolling circumfence... within a reasonable tolorence? If so,
I would think the next step is to isolate which valve set is triggering.
I use a breakout box that allows me to monitor (and change) all signals
in and out of the ECU. I'd have to research how to do this with more
common tools.
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
------------------------------
From: Randy Wilson <randy@taylor.infi.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 00:15:18 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: FW: XJ-S: Rough Running
>So today I checked the TPS and engine compression. While checking the
>TPS with an ohmmeter, I found the internal contacts seem to be intact --
>the needle on the meter moved smoothly as I rotated the TPS. However, I
>also found that the TPS showed 5 volts at idle -- substantially
>different than the 3.2V - 3.8V I was expecting. I attempted to adjust
>the TPS in the manner outlined in Kirby's book, but found that the
>minimum figure I could attain was 4.35V. The TPS could not be turned
>further on the three small mounting screws that hold it. Any ideas why
>I might get this kind of reading? Any suggestions as to how to rectify
>the situation? Might this mean I DO have a bad TPS?
There are several possibles here. First, make sure the throttle system is
returning all of the way to the idle position, the tab on the bellcrank
against it's stop. Second, make sure the ground supply to the pot is
good... no resistance. Next check your supply voltage. No less than 12.5,
no more than 14.0. If all this passes, then it's time to try a new pot.
>Next, I did a compression test. The results I got both concern and
>confuse me. They are as follows:
>
>1B = 149lbs 1A = 135lbs
>2B = 152lbs 2A = 144lbs
>3B = 149lbs 3A = 141lbs
>4B = 146lbs 4A = 138lbs
>5B = 146lbs 5A = 146lbs
>6B = 150lbs 6A = 141lbs
>
>
>My car is an H.E. and so, according to Kirby's book, I should be seeing
>readings in the 200-220lb range. But these results correspond closely
>to a pre-H.E. engine for which readings are expected to be between 130
>and 150lbs.
>
>Again, any ideas? Why are these readings so low? Anyone else done a
>compression check on an '85 XJ-S? Is it really possible that my engine
>is SO worn?
220 is the typical number on a correct HE. Low numbers can be caused by
not cranking long enough. Not opening the throttles. A bad compression
gauge. Radical or mis-timed cams. Tight valve clearances. Or an engine
that has been running on an extremely rich fuel mixture, such that it
has washed the oil out of the rings. Did you try a wet test?
The standard rule-of-thumb is the numbers should be within 10%, low to
high.
A TPS voltage of 5.0 or so at normal idle speed is going to cause a rich
mixture. Get this fixed first, let the engine run for a while to recoup...
and try your compression run again.
>
>Aaron
>'85 XJ-S
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
------------------------------
From: "Mnr Jacques Watson" <GNFMJFW@frm.uovs.ac.za>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 08:41:59 GMT2
Subject: Slipping '75XJ6 transmission
Good morning to all jag-lovers
It is not exactly a good morning to me. Reason being that I managed
to royally bugger up my transmission on Saturday night (Yes, I was
sober, I was just late for an appointment). During above mentioned
bit of spirited driving, I made frequent manual gear changes. Net
result : a very ill transmission.
When the transmission lever is right back (as in 1st) and the car is
stationary, one hears a scratching noise with VERY little movement.
If you up the revs to about 3000 then the cars starts to move slowly
until it reaches about 20kph and then it kicks in and the car goes
like normal. If I then move the lever up one, I once again hear the
scratching noise during the change. I can then accelerate, but not
too fast until I can change over to third. If the car is completely
stationary and in drive or any other setting for that matter, I hear
this same scratching noise, more like something metal spinning on
a wet sement floor.
Now, I have a few questions :
1. Should one drive a automatic transmission like that? The car
seems to lack performance if I keep it in drive, which is how I
normally drive except when I am in a hurry. I have driven it
hard before and have had no problems.
2. The mechanic that normally does my car have previously mentioned
that my car has the transmission of the previous model. Did he
mean the Series I XJ6 or the '74 model? What is the difference
with regards to performance and reliability.
3. What might be the problem? Big bucks??? I will get the
mechanic to fix it anyway, since I am about as mechinically
challenged as they come, I just thought that the expertise
available on this list might be of some help.
4. Should I look for a second hand transmission or is this one
fixable?
5. Should I drink myself into oblivion and pretend that my Jag is
still going ;-)
I really am very depressed about this, especially seeing that the car
have been going so well the last few months. Am I an idiot for
driving the car like that? I find it hard to believe that the "race
bred" XJ6 would not be able to handle a bit of spirited driving.
On the up side, I did managed to make an Audi A4 (2 liter I think) look rather silly. Offcourse shortly after the A4 dissappeared in my rear-view mirror, the transmission went belly-up. Thanks in advance for any input, advice, hints etc. Jacques Watson (gnfmjfw@frm.uovs.ac.za) Data Manager / Grounded XJ6 pilot (051) 401 3126 Dept. of Pharmacology University of the Orange Free State PO Box 339 (G6) Bloemfontein, South Africa From: Jim Ellis <jellis@metz.une.edu.au> Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 17:49:00 +1100 (EST) Subject: Re: leak down test At 04:03 PM 1/12/96 +0100, you wrote:
>
>jag-lovers-digest Sunday, 1 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 555
>
>From: DHarr13177@aol.com
Date: Sat, 30 Nov 1996 23:46:48 -0500
Subject: Re: XKE engine spec's
I think the person who asked about the specs initially really wants to know
if the engine is in good shape. A leak down test should be done.Compression
testing is much less sensitive.
**********
Could someone please enlighten an elderly antipodean what a "leak down test"
is, how is performed and what it should reveal?
P.S. The D-Type was passed in when auctioned last week in Sydney at
$AUS855,000 (below the reserve, which I guess was probably around $900k)
and the auctioners are currently " having dialogue " with 2 of the higher
bidders!
cheers,
Jim (" there aint nothing like a Daim' ") Ellis.
Jim Ellis
Internal Auditor
University of New England,
N.S.W. 2351.
AUSTRALIA.
*********
'phone: (067) 733497;
[national: +61 67 733497;]
fax: (067) 733314;
e-mail: jellis@metz.une.edu.au
------------------------------
From: "Kirbert" <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 02:03:52 -0005
Subject: XJ-S: Headlights
I am preparing to add some tips on headlights to the XJ-S help book.
I need the answers to the following questions:
1) When did the US-spec XJ-S switch from four round headlights to
the two big custom (Euro style) lamps?
2) My car came with fog lights (yellow lenses). Did other XJ-S's
originally come with driving lights (white lenses)? If so, what
determined which cars got fog lights and which cars got driving
lights? And what type of switch controlled the driving lights?
3) Did the original fog/driving lights all use H3 halogen bulbs?
4) What kind of bulbs do the Euro style headlight assemblies use?
How many watts are they?
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm's Postulate
------------------------------
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 10:13:09 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: Electric Windows
> How often do you do this.....pull up, switch off, take out the key, then
> find the window is still down ?
> Would it be possible to link power to the window switches via the
> interior light / aerial delay circuitry
> so that the windows could be closed after switch off ?
> Is any body else bothered by this ?
> Is it feasible ?
> Has this idea ever been implemented ?
> I have to roll down my window to use my carpark access key each morning
> and about every third
> day I forget park and switch off before closing the windows again. I
> know I'm a slow learner but hey !
> Would this be considered an improvement or sacrilege ?
I've done this on my '88 XJ-S. I simply used the door contacts and a
relay, e.g. you can operate the windows if a door is open. I did this
to prevent that our little daugther might hurt herself when waiting
in the car with the doors closed.
Took me about an 1hrs. I put the relay under the passengers glove box.
And it's a really nice feature to have !
- - matthias
------------------------------
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 10:35:21 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: XJ-S: Rough Running
> I also am aware that there is no accelerator pump. Nonetheless, the car
> will no start without pumping the gas when turning the key -- perhaps I
> have a fuel pressure problem?
>
> >Well, right off we have a problem. There is no carburetor and
> >therefore no accelerator pump, so pumping the gas should do nothing
> >whatsoever except wear out the linkage a little faster. OTOH,
> >holding the pedal in any position other than idle when hitting the
> >starter makes starting very difficult, it should be left at idle
> >when starting.
Aaron,
I have the same sympton on my V12. If I start the car, I just hit the
gas pedal slightly twice. This will fire all injectors (you can try this
by opening the bonnet, turning on the ignition and turning the throttle
by hand) and the car starts easily.
I remember several people told me that this is kind of a "normal"
procedure.
And I found a contact problem which I repaired last week : all the
contacts to the primary ignition coil. I cleaned them up carefully and
the car nows starts much better.
- - Matthias
------------------------------
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 10:41:59 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: Boot & Bonnet Support Cylinder Replacement
> Can anyone recommend a suitable replacement for the support cylinder
> that hold up the boot and bonnet of an 1989 XJ40? Mine don't seem to have
> enough pressure to open up the bonnet, I have to push the lid up and hold
> for a few seconds.
> They seem aftermarket, and say Stabilus "Lift-O-Mat" on them. It would
> be a rip-off from the dealer (over $100) for something not even very
> genuine. I checked with my aftermarket parts place, and they sell the same
> exact make for all different cars and are reasonably priced (around $20-30).
> He can't cross-reference a number for the lift cylinders, so I would have to
> use the dealer. It seems ridiculous, I never use aftermarket parts, but why
> spend the extra $$$ when the same brand is orginal for the car?
Well,
what exactly is aftermarket ? I guess many parts in your car are not
manufactured by Jaguar (tires, electrcial/electronical stuff, leather, brakes
etc etc) so I think it makes no sense to buy (and pay premimum prices) for
those parts. I would not buy light-bulbs at Jaguar (ahhh, not true. I bought
the 21W Sofitte style lamp for the reverse light on my XJ-S, seems not to
be a very standard item).
Look at the JEC magazine, many of the advertisements indicate if it is
the original parts (although not sold through Jaguar) or an replacement part
- - Matthias
------------------------------
From: RLehman x2576 <RLEHMAN@npr.org>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 5:23:46 -0500
Subject: XJS loosing coolant
We don't drive the XJS very often...
After months of searching for the leak, and refilling and bleeding many times,
I think I've found the problem. I smelled anti-freeze yesterday, touched
the tank cap and water sprayed out. Odd, isn't the extra water supposed to go
to the tank in the body wall behind the front wheel?....while waiting for the
system to cool off, I squeezed the tube to the tank to find it was under
pressure also. Overflow tank obviously plugged OR is it supposed to be under
pressure too?
If the overflow tank (in the body) is plugged, will air get into the coolant
system when the engine cools down? Another way to ask, Is the engine and
header tank a sealed system, with the tank in the body acting as the overflow
tank found in american cars?
Yes, I'm a bit confused and don't want to open the wheel well to check the tank
if I don't have to.
Russ Lehman
"nothing worthwhile is ever easy"
"pessimists are accurate; optimists live longer"
Internet: rlehman@npr.org
------------------------------
From: Baard Th Hesvik <baard@telesoft.no>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 11:59:28 -0800
Subject: 6-12 conversion / Smoking Jim
Gregory:
An XJ 6 to 12 conversion is not quite that straight foreward, I'm afraid. The
fit itself presents no major problems, nor does the other things you need to do
in order to conform with the additional requirements of a V12 installation.
However, you need the parts and you need to do the job.
To accommodate the V12 unit, Jaguar made a number of changes to the XJ, mostly
caused by increased heat and weight; Brakes, front suspension (springs) and
insulation to mention a few
Jim:
What about brake fluid consumption? If brake fluid gets into the intake
manifold, a huge white cloud will be puffed out the exhaust. I believe I've
mentioned my experience on the issue before, but couldn't find it. If you search
in the archive, look for "250" as my experience came from my fathers MB-250.
Regards,
Bard
- --
______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ /_/ / /_/ /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ _/ /_/ / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no
------------------------------
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #557
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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 2 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 558
RE: XJ-S: Rough Running
Re: FW: XJ-S: Rough Running
Re: Slipping '75XJ6 transmission
Re: Volunteers Needed
Headlight Questions
RE: how i found my jag
Climate control gremlins
Re: XKE engine spec's
Re: Electric Windows
leakdown
E Type Address
Re: Electric Windows
Re: XKE engine spec's
Re: Electric Windows
FW: Headlight Questions
RE: FW: XJ-S: Rough Running
XJ-S: Rough Running
XJS parts for sale
Re: Volunteers Needed
Re: Electric Windows
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Chad Bolles <aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 06:58:32 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: XJ-S: Rough Running
Jan: In the Lucas P Digital system, when you pump the accelerator,this
gives the injectors a shot. Pumping the accelerator triggers the full
throttle micro switch. Running or not the ECU will give the injectors a
shot..
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044
On 2 Dec 1996, Jan Wikstroem wrote:
> "Pumping" the accelerator during cranking seemed to work on one occasion when
> the cold start injectors on my XJ12L suffered a bout of Lucasosis. A possible
> way for this to function is that the "I want to accelerate" signal gets the ECU
> to enrich the mixture. Of course, a sophisticated ECU would say "bullshit,
> you're not even running yet", but how sophisticated is the Lucas/Bosh
> K-Jetronic ECU?
>
> -Jan
>
------------------------------
From: Chad Bolles <aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 07:18:05 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: FW: XJ-S: Rough Running
Aaron: When checking the engine compression,the throttles are suppose to
be open. This if you did not do it will make a small difference. Now that
you have done it, go back and do a couple of cylinders again, this time
pour a tablespoon or two of oil down them (one at a time). Then check the
compression, if it goes up say 30-50 lbs then you can look at the rings
worn, if it goes up say 10-20 lbs, then you are looking at valves. You
might also do the check on a warm engine,this also makes a difference.
On the rough idle, on a warmed up engine, and it is idleing rough,
disconnect both O2 sensors,let the engine continue to run. After a couple
of minutes, if it has smoothed out, then what you have is a lean condition.
This can be cause by several injectors, Or one injector not flowing
properly. Or it could be that the ECU is set to lean. Removing the ECU
from the car, or just getting to it where you can see it. There is a
rubber plug in the side. If you remove it you will see a shaft,not unlike
a radio knob shaft. Turning this shaft fully left(counterclockwise)causes
the ECU to be lean,conversely, full right makes it rich.
Let me know what happens,we will fix this yet.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044
------------------------------
From: Chad Bolles <aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 07:25:23 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Slipping '75XJ6 transmission
Jacques: Do not worry about you XJ-6's transmission, because you are not
going to be driving it much longer anyway.
Hate to tell you old boy, but it is trans time. And you thought Santa
only gave presents to good boys.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044
------------------------------
From: "Yubert K. Fang" <yubert@concentric.net>
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 04:45:48 -0800
Subject: Re: Volunteers Needed
Kirbert,
Below are my comments to some of your suggestions. I can't help in
all areas but may be able to help with some...
>
> 3) I still hope someone will develop a system by which those of us
> doing repairs to our cars can record the whole thing photographically
> and make it available for others who plan on doing similar repairs.
> At first I thought the video camera would be perfect for this; lots
> of people have them, VHS tapes are cheap and easily duplicated,
> shipping them is no big deal, and each tape holds LOTS of time (six
> hours or more) along with sound so the creator can explain what he's
> doing and why. However, it appears that video wouldn't cross borders
> too well, since it seems that different countries use different
> standards for video. They also cannot be conveniently transmitted
> via the Internet.
>
I'm quite busy at work at various times and may not have time to do
the conversion in a timely manner but might be willing to help in
this area.
I work for SGI, we make high-end UNIX workstations with video input
and output. I think I can read in PAL as well as NTSC and can digitize
the videos into MPEG1, Quicktime or SGI formats.
> Another idea might be to use the up-and-coming digital cameras to
> take strategic pix, then combine with text describing the operation.
> This has the disadvantage of still pix vs. video, and it also may be
> more work to make -- somebody has to type the operations out rather
> than just talk about them on camera. But they could be sent over the
> Internet or even posted on a WWW site.
>
One can also use a device like the Snappy from Minolta, to take still
frames from a video tape. Does a good job I hear...
Posting on a Web site sounds good to me. I'll check but I recall that
SGI allows employees to create external websites so long as it's for a
non-profit or non-commercial purpose.
> Whatever, I think it would be a good idea for someone to establish a
> "clearinghouse" for repair operations. That clearinghouse might not
> necessarily KEEP all those tapes and pictures; perhaps it would only
> keep the info on who has each one, so that one person preparing to
> do an operation could be quickly and conveniently (and perhaps
> automatically, via a WWW page) referred to the person who has
> already done it and has the pix needed. There might be no real need
> to establish any standards for video or pix, either; perhaps each
> person doing a repair can create a visual record by whatever means
> available to him, and anyone seeking a copy of such a record can
> decide for himself if he can make use of what's available.
>
The website could allow people to create their own pages and post
the pix themselves. Plus a search engine could be incorporated to
assist in searches.
> 4) I'm not sure whatever became of the suggestion to create an
> online photo guide to which XK head is which, what colors they are
> painted, and what cars they're supposed to be on. Since I don't
> have an XK engine, I don't really care. But this project apparently
> would help the owners of the earlier engines, and there is also the
> possibility that doing similar things for parts OTHER than XK heads
> would be helpful. For example, we recently had a discussion about
> how to tell a V-12 H.E. from a pre-H.E., and while the description
> of the plugs was adequate a couple of photos posted on a WWW page
> would work even better.
>
Yea, I'd like to see more photos of Jags on the WWW. I'm particularly
interested in seeing electrical and schematic diagrams for XJ40's.
- ---Yubert
------------------------------
From: "Kirbert" <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 08:39:49 -0005
Subject: Headlight Questions
I forgot one question:
The J. C. Whitney catalog offers Hella headlights and replacement HB2
bulbs. What the heck is an HB2 bulb? And where can you get one on a
rainy Saturday night?
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm's Postulate
------------------------------
From: Gunnar Helliesen <gunnar@bitcon.no>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 14:48:05 +0100
Subject: RE: how i found my jag
Brett,
Come on, let's hear it! I can't stand the suspension! ;-)
Gunnar
- --
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar Sovereign 4.2
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | '73 Mercedes 280 (240D)
>----------
>From: brett ferguson[SMTP:howard@calweb.com]
>Sent: 2. desember 1996 05:52
>To: jag-lovers@sn.no
>Subject: how i found my jag
>OK, now I was excited. I began to conjure up ways of juggling
>some money around so that I could swing the 25,000. At some point I realized
>that this
>price was too good to be true. But still... TO BE CONTINUED
>
------------------------------
From: Grego14424@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 08:59:58 -0500
Subject: Climate control gremlins
Hi all. I have a strange problem with my climate control system (84 XJ6).
It seems that at idle, all is well, but when underpower , the system fades
in and out, getting weaker, then stronger again with engine speed. I think
it is vacuum related. Have any members had any similar experience with their
cats.
Thanks in advance.
Greg Gangemi
------------------------------
From: "Mark McChesney" <mmcchesn@ford.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 09:21:11 -0500
Subject: Re: XKE engine spec's
On Nov 30, 11:46pm, DHarr13177@aol.com wrote:
> Subject: Re: XKE engine spec's
> I think the person who asked about the specs initially really wants to know
> if the engine is in good shape. A leak down test should be done.Compression
> testing is much less sensitive.
>-- End of excerpt from DHarr13177@aol.com
What is a leak down test?
------------------------------
From: Fred Bramston <fcb@nbnet.nb.ca>
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 10:24:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Electric Windows
Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR wrote:
>
> > How often do you do this.....pull up, switch off, take out the key, then
> > find the window is still down ?
> > Would it be possible to link power to the window switches via the
> > interior light / aerial delay circuitry
> > so that the windows could be closed after switch off ?
> > Is any body else bothered by this ?
> > Is it feasible ?
> > Has this idea ever been implemented ?
> > I have to roll down my window to use my carpark access key each morning
> > and about every third
> > day I forget park and switch off before closing the windows again. I
> > know I'm a slow learner but hey !
> > Would this be considered an improvement or sacrilege ?
>
> I've done this on my '88 XJ-S. I simply used the door contacts and a
> relay, e.g. you can operate the windows if a door is open. I did this
> to prevent that our little daugther might hurt herself when waiting
> in the car with the doors closed.
>
> Took me about an 1hrs. I put the relay under the passengers glove box.
>
> And it's a really nice feature to have !
>
> - matthias
Good Thinking as I guess this would also be an anti-theft approach as
well!!
- -Fred
------------------------------
From: DHarr13177@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 09:57:18 -0500
Subject: leakdown
With the piston near TDC (engine not running) , compressed air is run in via
a leakdown tester, which is a gauge which measures what % leaks out via rings
or valves. 3 % is excellent, 5 to 8 % is common for "good" street
engines.Over 8 % means trouble. Any race shop will have one. Many repair
shops DON'T have them, I think because they don;t want to know. Cranking PSI
( compression test) can be OK with a sick motor - It will tell you the
relative compression ratio. You can have 20 + % leakdown with "normal "
compression test. - Ask your "car- guy" friends- Maybe one will have a
leakdown tester. They will know about them.
------------------------------
From: "Felts, Thomas L." <Thomas.Felts@alcoa.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 10:02:09 -0500
Subject: E Type Address
Sorry to bomb the whole list for this, but could you please furnish the
E-Type address one more time?
Thanks
Tom
------------------------------
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 09:20:45 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Electric Windows
John :
Why not wire the windows ON all the time. I have never understood why they
are not ON even when the ignition is off.
Does anyone know the reason they turn off with the ignition?
Car theft doesnt make sense at least not on a Jag since the switches are in
the center the fiddling needed to push a "pole" through the window seal and
push the switches would be much harder that just breaking the window.
I would hate to be in a car parked with my sweetie on the side of the lake
and have it roll in and then have to find the key to roll down the windows
or unlock the doors.
JIM I.
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas."
Gen. Emiliano Zapata
1879-1919
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
From: Doug Heinen <povtybay@wolfenet.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 07:30:15 +0930
Subject: Re: XKE engine spec's
Mark McChesney wrote:
> What is a leak down test?
It a compression test wherein a known pressure is applied to the
combustion chmaber via the spark plug whole and then a rather well
calibrated pressure gauge of small graduations will show how quickly
that pressure will "bleed-down" to ambient conditions. Different rates
of drop and different final pressure readings will indicate, with much
more accuracy that a std compression test, the conditon of rings
(blow-by) and valves.
- --
,,,
/'^'\
( o o )
- --------------------------------------------------oOOO--(_)--OOOo--
Doug Heinen
.oooO
Federal Way, WA USA ( ) Oooo.
- --------------------------------------------------\ (-------( )---
\_) ) /
(_/
------------------------------
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 16:33:51 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: Electric Windows
> > I've done this on my '88 XJ-S. I simply used the door contacts and a
> > relay, e.g. you can operate the windows if a door is open. I did this
> > to prevent that our little daugther might hurt herself when waiting
> > in the car with the doors closed.
> >
> > Took me about an 1hrs. I put the relay under the passengers glove box.
> >
> > And it's a really nice feature to have !
> >
> > - matthias
> Good Thinking as I guess this would also be an anti-theft approach as
> well!!
I'm not sure what you mean about the anti-theft approach.
- - matthias
------------------------------
From: "Connie Vloutely" <connie_vloutely@macmail.git.gulfaero.com>
Date: 2 Dec 1996 10:38:24 -0500
Subject: FW: Headlight Questions
_______________________________________________________________________________
From: palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu on Mon, Dec 2, 1996 11:18 AM
Subject: Headlight Questions
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
I forgot one question:
The J. C. Whitney catalog offers Hella headlights and replacement HB2
bulbs. What the heck is an HB2 bulb? And where can you get one on a
rainy Saturday night?
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm's Postulate
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From: "Kirbert" <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Organization: Kirby Palm, P.E.
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 08:39:49 -0005
Subject: Headlight Questions
Reply-To: palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Priority: normal
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Precedence: bulk
------------------------------
From: Aaron Burnett <aaron.burnett@attws.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 08:11:33 -0800
Subject: RE: FW: XJ-S: Rough Running
I didn't have the throttles open -- didn't know about this. What does
this accomplish?
Here is what I did.
1) removed all spark plugs
2) checked cylinders one at a time using brand new gauge (this is the
first time for a compression test)
3) cranked the engine 7-10 times so that the gauge seemed to stabilize
and reach peak value
Again, I didn't know about keeping the throttles open. Does this mean I
should have kept them open using some wedge?
BTW, the rough idle is substantially better now (though not perfect). I
suspect that the bad bullet connector between the pick-up module and
ignition amplifier to be the culprit. Now I seem to have a low
resonance through the engine (sounds like baritone humming while
breathing - barely audible, but can be felt). I still wonder if I have
a clogged or bad injector or two, or perhaps a fuel pressure or flow
problem. I will test these next.
How about my TPS values? I assume that a TPS value of 5V will cause an
extremely rich condition?
Thanks again,
Aaron
'85 XJ-S
>----------
>From: Chad Bolles[SMTP:aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu]
>Sent: Monday, December 02, 1996 4:18 AM
>To: Aaron Burnett
>Cc: 'jag-lovers@sn.no'
>Subject: Re: FW: XJ-S: Rough Running
>
>Aaron: When checking the engine compression,the throttles are suppose to
>be open. This if you did not do it will make a small difference. Now that
>you have done it, go back and do a couple of cylinders again, this time
>pour a tablespoon or two of oil down them (one at a time). Then check the
>compression, if it goes up say 30-50 lbs then you can look at the rings
>worn, if it goes up say 10-20 lbs, then you are looking at valves. You
>might also do the check on a warm engine,this also makes a difference.
>On the rough idle, on a warmed up engine, and it is idleing rough, disconnect both O2 sensors,let the engine continue to run. After a couple of minutes, if it has smoothed out, then what you have is a lean condition. This can be cause by several injectors, Or one injector not flowing properly. Or it could be that the ECU is set to lean. Removing the ECU from the car, or just getting to it where you can see it. There is a rubber plug in the side. If you remove it you will see a shaft,not unlike a radio knob shaft. Turning this shaft fully left(counterclockwise)causes the ECU to be lean,conversely, full right makes it rich. Let me know what happens,we will fix this yet. Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044 From: "Gregory W. Price" <gprice@mack.rt66.com> Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 09:27:30 -0700 Subject: XJ-S: Rough Running The voltage reading on your TPS could also be an artifact of your voltmeter. My cheapie VOM unit doesn't measure at the low end of any scale very well, and yours may not either. First step would be to verify your meter readings with a really good voltmeter. I can't comment on the absolute values of your compression testing, but the lowest reading should be within 10% of the highest reading. It appears that yours are in compliance. Greg Price From: Juliansean@aol.com Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 11:30:26 -0500 Subject: XJS parts for sale I have some parts for sale off of a 1987 XJS convertible. It was a Hess and Eisenhardt model. All the trim, bumpers, glass, interior, new top with new rubber seals, new carpet kit, most of the engine controls etc. are available. Some of the top and interior stuff is peculiar to the rare Hess model. All these parts are currently stored inside. Many of them are brand new (uninstalled) or completely restored as the car was middway through a restoration when it was damaged. The interior color is Biscuit with Mink carpet. Please contact me offline if you have any inquiries. I'd love to get rid of this stuff, especially to a Hess owner. Julian Mullaney From: "Roger Langley" <lang0080@gold.tc.umn.edu> Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 11:39:11 -0000 Subject: Re: Volunteers Needed I am in the process of re-drawing out the electrical schematic of my 1983 XJ 6 from the shop manual as I have a devil of a time reading these things and I am hoping I can learn this way. Would this be useful? It is in Corelaraw and could be sent in any format. I can add HTML codes to any text so no one would have to do anthing with it. From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR) Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 17:41:02 +0100 (MET) Subject: Re: Electric Windows John : Why not wire the windows ON all the time. I have never understood why they are not ON even when the ignition is off. Does anyone know the reason they turn off with the ignition? Car theft doesnt make sense at least not on a Jag since the switches are in the center the fiddling needed to push a "pole" through the window seal and push the switches would be much harder that just breaking the window. I would hate to be in a car parked with my sweetie on the side of the lake and have it roll in and then have to find the key to roll down the windows or unlock the doors. Simply security for children I think. The assumption is that a child can't operate the power windows from the centre console and have any other body parts in the window when the door is open. My BMW^H^H^H other car allows to open the window only once after you turned of the ignition, for the same reason. Of course we could trust the window motor to fail on the slighest additional load if it is produced by a certain britis company. I saw this a few while back on the news and you might enjoy it : LUCAS here stands for L et U s C reate A S hort End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #558 ******************************** Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4) id <BAA20421> for jag-lovers-digest-out; Tue, 3 Dec 1996 01:18:16 +0100 (MET) Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 01:18:16 +0100 (MET) Message-Id: <199612030018.BAA20421@ekeberg.sn.no> From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #559 Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Precedence: bulk X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 3 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 559 Re: 1983 XJ6 S3 4.2 Cold start advice wanted. Re: Headlight Questions Design for leak-down tester UK VINs and TWR Engines sign off Re: Radio Fuse? XJ6 power-steer probs valve stem seal Diff. Backlash MKII steering Diff. tool dimension CD changer for 93 XJ6 Transmission Removal on 76 XJ12C RE: how i found my jag Re: Slipping '75XJ6 transmission Re: XJ-S: Headlights XJ13 replica Volunteers Needed XJ-S: Headlight Questions (1 more) Re: Climate control gremlins RE: FW: XJ-S: Rough Running Re: Magazines Re: UK VINs and TWR Engines From: Roly Alcock <roly@redac.co.uk> Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 16:37:34 +0000 Subject: Re: 1983 XJ6 S3 4.2 Cold start advice wanted. Thank you to all who contributed various solution to my cold start problem. I have been away on business for a week so was unable to progress the problem. It looks as though the coil HAS fixed the problem - the engine fired immediately after the car had been left standing for 7 days in an open car park. This is what I did:- All checks carried out first thing in the morning before engine has been attempted to be started. 1. Removed air cleaner, a. dismantled and cleaned multiway connector block which hangs down under the ignition amplifier and gets all caked with road muck. b. Cleaned multiway connector blocks at rear of inlet manifold. c. Switched ignition on and poked finger into air chamber and opened the air flap. This will make the pump run, so if fuel has drained back overnight or is losing pressure at least one knows that that there is some fuel in the fuel rail. d. cranked engine - 8 spins - then starts. e. Obviously no difference. f. put air cleaner back on. As an offshoot of item a above, the oil pressure gauge ceased to function. Found wire under the manifold which was not connected to anything and surmised that that was the culprit. Took over half an hour to get the bloody thing reconnected. Had to jack up the car and go up from underneath to even touch/identify the sender. 2. Visit local workshop which is run by an ex Jaguar factory person. Borrowed a coil that we found rolling around on a bench full of second hand XJ6 bits, but neither of us were convinced that it was the correct one, as the numbers stamped on the base were not matchable with normal Lucas/Unipart/Jaguar references. However it did have the correct number and sex of terminals on it. Installed that coil - no difference when tried the following morning. We were able to positively identify that the coil that was currently on my car was from a 1979-1981 S3 XJ6, and that there was a different part numbered coil for 1982-onwards. 3. Order new coil. Fitted it, it worked. Would have then gone on to check the thermotime switch if the new coil had not done the business. Thank you again to all those who reponded. Roly Roly Alcock, (Postmaster) Principal Systems Engineer Redac Systems Ltd, Tel: 01684 294161 ext. 211 Zuken-Redac Group, Fax: 01684 298902 Green Lane, Tewkesbury, E-mail: roly@redac.co.uk Gloucestershire, GL20 8HE, UK Web: http://www.redac.co.uk From: hdrsons@iamerica.net (Hal Rogers) Date: Fri, 22 Nov 1996 13:55:19 -0700 Subject: Re: Headlight Questions At 08:39 AM 12/2/96 -0005, palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu wrote:
>I forgot one question:
>
>The J. C. Whitney catalog offers Hella headlights and replacement HB2
>bulbs. What the heck is an HB2 bulb? And where can you get one on a
>rainy Saturday night?
>
> -- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
> | some rules must be broken.
The HB2 is essentially the same thing as an H4. They interchange. The HB2 is
street legal however.
Regards,
Hal
Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
Import Auto Specialists
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax
Serving Auto Enthusiasts since 1959
------------------------------
From: Doug Heinen <povtybay@wolfenet.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 09:01:00 +0930
Subject: Design for leak-down tester
Hi Groups:
If anyone would like the design, drawings and parts list to build your
own leak down tester for about $40US, I'd be happy to FAX them to
persons in the US or mail them to our friends outside the confines of
the United States of Clinton. Please reply off-list.
- --
,,,
/'^'\
( o o )
- --------------------------------------------------oOOO--(_)--OOOo--
Doug Heinen
(waiting for the Jag to be named here....) .oooO
Federal Way, WA USA ( ) Oooo.
- --------------------------------------------------\ (-------( )---
\_) ) /
(_/
------------------------------
From: "Gammer, Paul VN-AT" <GammerP@VIENPO2.AT.unisys.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 96 17:21:00 GMT
Subject: UK VINs and TWR Engines
Hi all,
I recall seeing a list which decodes VIN numbers but I think that this
was for US cars. Does anybody know if there is a different list for
decoding UK VIN's ? I ask this question because I have a few queries
about my particular vehicle which neither Jaguar nor TWR can answer. I
have a TWR XJRS and would like to tell if it is a 5.3 or 6.0 litre. It is
a Jan-88 car so that would lead me to believe that it is a 5.3, but after
a call to TWR they said that there were some experimental vehicles that
were 6.0 even in 1988. The DVLC has the car registered as a 5.3, but PO's
insured it as a 6.0, hmmm. I am further confused because there is a
tuning information stamp on the engine block that has three sets of
figures- 5.3 low-comp, 5.3 hi-comp and 6.0. My brief description of the
engine & manifolds to TWR still provided no enlightenment. Even my
"Jaguar-aware" mechanic can not tell. Any info or advise ?
regards, Paul.
1988 TWR XJRS (5.3 or 6.0) ?
------------------------------
From: Mareks Malnacs <Mareks.Malnacs@dati.lv>
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 96 20:17:00 EET
Subject: sign off
------------------------------
From: theo bremner <tbremner@lynx.dac.neu.edu>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 12:54:48 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Radio Fuse?
Hello,
Is the radio on an 85 XJ6 supposed to be fused through the fuse
panel or is it done strictly with an inline fuse at the radio itself?
Mine seems to have been wired after the factory and it has an inline
fuse at the radio which is a very high amperage for just a radio. I
would like to change the fuse to a lower value if indeed it is the fuse
that covers the radio only. It seems that is all that is wired after
this inline fuse. Is this fuse a double done for safety after the one
in the fuse panel if existing?
Thanks for any advice,
Theo
tbremner@lynx.neu.edu
------------------------------
From: hached01@bh.bbc.co.uk (Dieter Hachenberg)
Date: 02 Dec 96 18:34:50 GMT
Subject: XJ6 power-steer probs
'86 SIII 4.2 Sovereign, when at idle, if you turn the wheel, it "fights
back" and judders. Problem is when you are approaching a junction,
slowing down, and take your foot off the gas, the steering gets VERY
HEAVY and fightsyou as you try and turn. Put your foot on the gas, just a
little but to pick the revs up and the problem disappears. Anyone had and
solved this.
By the way, this list really is most valuable. I appreciate all the help
I've had from you all.
Dieter Hachenberg
'86 SIII 4.2 Sov
------------------------------
From: martin.jacobsen@login.eunet.no (Martin Jacobsen)
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 20:57:25 -0100
Subject: valve stem seal
Thank for responces
To day I took my MKII to a local garage. We used air-pressure, and after a
couple of hour we started the engine. Much less blue smoke. I think there
is no getting away from the fact that next time I have to restore the
engine.
Martin
------------------------------
From: Richard Griffiths <73564.2101@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 02 Dec 96 13:55:03 EST
Subject: Diff. Backlash
Jim Cantrell wrote,
>>>> At least by my experience, it is almost always
measured by a dial indicator on the center of a ring gear tooth<<<
Jim you are absolutely right of course, with the diff. on the bench. I must of
missed something I understood Robert's posting to be for use in place and let my
thought process get carried away and described a method applicable to all gear
boxes.
Regards
Richard
------------------------------
From: Richard Griffiths <73564.2101@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 02 Dec 96 13:57:56 EST
Subject: MKII steering
Ken Wallace wrote;-
>>Thanks to all that have responded to my question regarding the adaptation of
the XJ6 steering rack to my Mk 2. Unfortunately, I seem to have gotten a
lot more questions than answers. So, I am still researching this and will
update you as I get the answers<<<
Ken FYI I have seen an MKII conversion using XJS rack with rebiult original
steering pump for which the convertor claimed " great handling characteristics
". I dont know if the XJS rack is any different from XJ6.
Richard
------------------------------
From: Richard Griffiths <73564.2101@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 02 Dec 96 13:58:29 EST
Subject: Diff. tool dimension
Kirbert;- re. tool height.
>>This special Jaguar tool, 4HA, is apparently simply a block of a
particular height. Therefore, if I knew this height, and listed the
height in my XJ-S help book, it would save people from having to buy
this Jaguar tool when overhauling their final drive units.
So: anybody out there know what the height of this block is?<<<
If the mounting dimensions are still marked on the gear sets like the old days,
and my rapidly fading memory is correct, I think the block dimension can be
calculated by measuring the carrier bearing bore and subracting half (ie. the
radius ) from the marked dimension.
Richard
------------------------------
From: Kevin.Campbell@vwr-inc.com
Date: Monday, 2 December 1996 11:16am PT
Subject: CD changer for 93 XJ6
Does anyone know of an aftermarket CD changer that can be fitted to my 93 XJ6?
As I understand it the wiring is already in place, and the radio appears to
have CD controls incorporated within it.
Thanks
Kevin
------------------------------
From: "Jim Cantrell" <jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 12:26:08 MDT
Subject: Transmission Removal on 76 XJ12C
I am in the process of restoring my 76 XJ12C and have reached a
critical point in the engine compartment. It is apparent that I have
to pull the heads off of the car because of either sticking valves or
dropped valve seats. I have also noticed that the transmission leaks
a bit of oil on the floor. I presume that the seal on the torque
convertor is at fault due to the area that is leaking and my general
pessimism. My question is this. The factory manual says
that to remove the transmission, the whole engine has to come out.
My experience on other vehicles is that I have never seen a
transmission that couldn't come out from the bottom without removing
the engine. Has anybody been able to remove the trans without the
motor on this or an XJS ? I am suspicious of the manual as they seem
to imply that you have to pull the motor out to fix almost
everything. I'm almost to the point of simply pulling the motor so
that I can clean and paint the engine compartment and replace all of
the hoses etc on the motor anyway. The more I dig, the more I find
wrong with the rubber components. Any thoughts on this idea ?
Kind Regards,
Jim Cantrell
------------------------------
From: John Setters <john_setters@eagle.co.nz>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 09:04:13 +1300
Subject: RE: how i found my jag
OK, OK......so what's next ?
You've got my interest.
Anybody else with similar stories ? They make good reading.
If you would like to read my story about CATMBL visit
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/3631/
******************************************************
John Setters
Desktop Mapping Consultant
Eagle Technology Group Ltd
110 Symonds Street
Auckland
New Zealand
Ph +64 +09 300 3400 Fax +64 +09 300 3420
Email john_setters@eagle.co.nz
http://www.eagle.co.nz
******************************************************
>----------
>From: brett ferguson[SMTP:howard@calweb.com]
>Subject: how i found my jag
>
>There she was, ... TO BE CONTINUED
>
------------------------------
From: Mario James <brackett@minotaur.uwimona.edu.jm>
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 15:18:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Slipping '75XJ6 transmission
Mr Watson,
About two years ago the same thing happened to me, only I was
moving against a hotted up Daihatsu Cuore (Very small car, very good
power to weight ratio) in my '72 2.8 XJ6 (Flowed Head, Venoila pistons,
needled S.U.'s) Needless to say, he LEFT me on the line. But I could not
take the embarrasment, so I held my foot to the floor, and my baby
started to reel him in. About three hundred metres from the stop light I
passed him in a blaze of glory (and at about 7,000 RPM, I might add). I
was rowing the gears manually, and held each gear to 7 grand. The hun
caught up with me waiting at the next stoplight, a grin on my face from
ear to ear. However, on getting the green, my car emitted a strange
rattle, and got up even slower than usual. I decided to let the hun go
and cruised to a gas station.
The Prognosis : I had fractured what is called a stator support
in the transmission. This support holds the stator (A kind of "gear",
for want of a better word, between the turbine and impeller of the
torque converter). When this occurs, no torque multiplication can occur
from the converter, with the result that your car behaves as if it is
stuck in top gear all the while. The stator support breaks because, I
think, the converter is not dynamically balanced at speeds in excess of
6,000 RPM, and thus the ensuing vibration breaks the support. The stator
support is also part of the hydraulic pump unit. Replacing the pump
should solve your problem, and is relatively easy to do. In the meantime
do not drive your car, as the mainline pressure at the clutches in your
tranny is not enough to cope with the stress that is now being placed on
them and will burn up or strip the clutches very quickly!! You DO NOT
have to lift the engine out of the car in order to drop the tranny, and
if you have not burnt your clutches, you should be running again in a
day or so.
Yours Truly,
Mario James.
------------------------------
From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 15:11:23 -0600
Subject: Re: XJ-S: Headlights
This is a Mime message, which your current mail reader
may not understand. Parts of the message will appear as
text. To process the remainder, you will need to use a Mime
compatible mail reader. Contact your vendor for details.
- --IMA.Boundary.990855948
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Kirby:
1) My '88 (built 12/87, VIN SAJNA5841JC147405) has four round
headlamps.
2) It came with two rectangular white auxiliary lamps mounted below
the bumper, described in the Jag literature as Fog Lamps. The switch
is a fairly large, round switch just to the left of the (LHD) steering
column. It controls all the exterior lights. The positions, starting
in the off position and rotating clockwise are: a) Off, b) Parking
lights, c) Parking and Headlamps, d) Parking, Head- and Fog lamps, and
e) Parking and Fog lamps. [Parking means Front parking lamps,
taillamps and side markers.] Note that there is no "fog" support in
the taillights as there is in many European cars. I infer from some
previous messages that other years and/or versions for other (non-US)
markets may have fog taillights.
MikeC
---------------------- Reply Message ---------------------------
From: "Kirbert" <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 02:03:52 -0005
Subject: XJ-S: Headlights
I am preparing to add some tips on headlights to the XJ-S help book.
I need the answers to the following questions:
1) When did the US-spec XJ-S switch from four round headlights to
the two big custom (Euro style) lamps?
2) My car came with fog lights (yellow lenses). Did other XJ-S's
originally come with driving lights (white lenses)? If so, what
determined which cars got fog lights and which cars got driving
lights? And what type of switch controlled the driving lights?
3) Did the original fog/driving lights all use H3 halogen bulbs?
4) What kind of bulbs do the Euro style headlight assemblies use?
How many watts are they?
-- Kirbert
- --IMA.Boundary.990855948--
------------------------------
From: "Gregory W. Price" <gprice@mack.rt66.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 14:57:52 -0700
Subject: XJ13 replica
Does anyone know of a company that produces an XJ13 replica? I only know
of Colborne's in the UK, but are there any others? Any info, or rumors,
appreciated.
Thanks,
Greg Price
------------------------------
From: "Kirbert" <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 17:04:28 -0005
Subject: Volunteers Needed
I came up with one more suggestion for a project that some
enterprising jag-lover might wanna tackle. I think it would be a
good idea for someone to write up a complete treatise on the various
stereo systems in XJ's. There appear to be quite a few variations
from the factory, what with security features, removable faces, etc.
And that procedure for connecting up a CD changer in the trunk
needs to be covered. Throw in some suggestions for minor
improvements and, of course, detailed discussions of how to mount
15" woofers and a 1000-watt amp should be included.
I suppose there might be some interest in such a discussion involving
the older Jaguars as well, but I can't imagine there being a whole
lot to discuss there.
Might even throw in some info on cellular phone installations, just
for laughs.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm's Postulate
------------------------------
From: "Kirbert" <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 17:04:28 -0005
Subject: XJ-S: Headlight Questions (1 more)
One more question: My XK's Unlimited catalog shows something called
a "bulb pilot" on the Euro-style headlight assembly. What is a bulb
pilot?
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm's Postulate
------------------------------
From: Chad Bolles <aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 17:41:31 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Climate control gremlins
Greg: Most likley you have a vacuum valve that is suppose to maintain
vacuum, to the system,failed. Or you could just have an old fashion
vacuum leak. Check at the rear of the engine(intake manifold), all the
vacuum lines are there. Do not forget to look under the intake also,lines
there too.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044
------------------------------
From: Chad Bolles <aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 17:52:09 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: FW: XJ-S: Rough Running
Aaron: leaving the throttles closed will make a difference, but not
50-70lbs difference.
Rough idle: with engine off go thur and fix each injector harness
connector where you can remove it easily. Now start the engine, one at a
time disconnect and then reconnect each injector(give the engine a few
seconds to stabilize)if the engine smooths out when you remove an
injector then most likley the injector is bad.
The TPS should not read more than 3.2-3.8 volts, more than that gives the
ECU the command to supply more fuel. If I remember correctly the max
voltage to the ECU is 5volts at WOT.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044
------------------------------
From: gljohn3@searle.monsanto.com
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 96 17:06:22 CST
Subject: Re: Magazines
You might look into British Car magazine, 6 issues pa, (800) 520-8292
or e-mail BritCarMag@AOL.com. I found it on the big mag racks after I
got tired of E-Jag in 1993. They encourage using the cars--not just
Jags but all manner of fascinating British iron. Lots of color
photos, both on the road and all dressed out. Gets me in the mood to
fire it up! Several Jag suppliers advertise there.
Regards,
Gordon
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Magazines
Author: Red90Jag@aol.com at Internet
Date: 12/1/96 09:04 PM
Hi Folks;
Does anybody know of a good monthly Jaguar Magazine worth subscibing to?
I'm looking for a magazine that will accomplish two things!
1) Give me alittle info on Companies available to pick-up some catalogs &
other Jaguar info.
2) ( This is the real reason) To help get me through the next few months
while my 1990 XJ-6 is warmly tucked away for the winter !
Any magazine names & where I might be able to find them, would really be
appreciated.
thanks again
Dave Teta
Dunkirk, NY
------------------------------
From: John Goodman <101547.1141@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 02 Dec 96 19:14:16 EST
Subject: Re: UK VINs and TWR Engines
Paul
The genuine Jaguar Sport XJR-S 6.0 may be Identified by the red "Jaguar
Sport V12" Badge on the inlet manifolds at a quick glance. Officially
these came out in Sept '89. I think all 6.0L engine numbers must start
with 8W01****** (mine does anyway)
The '88 XJR-S and Sept '88 limited edition Celebration model XJR-S were
all standard 5.3.
However, TWR converted a few cars to special order before it changed
over to Jaguar Sport. Some were just cosmetic with standard engines and
some had various engine mods up to 7.2L but the most common was 6.1L and
apparently more V12 saloons were converted than XJ-S's.
As TWR rebuilt customers own cars/ engines (not necessarily new ones
either) then I would guess that the engine no. relates to the original
5.3 that the car started with. But, I believe there should be a bronze
identification plate somewhere on the engine indicating a genuine TWR
engine.
Should you be lucky enough to actually have an early pre production
XJR-S 6.0 it could be some sort of hybrid, may not have all the mods.
First look in the boot, the ECU is very obviously different, for a start
it's mounted on the left of the fuel tank. There are two injector power
resistors on the L/H inner front wing instead of the usual one of the
standard V12 and the air boxes are also totally different from the
standard car, everything else looks the same.
On the road they are magic ! not harsh, but very good handling. The GM 400 auto box has modified shift speeds and are quicker in changing, and less reluctant to kick -down into 1st. The steering racks have reduced assistance and appear to turn faster. The suspension/ spring set up is unique to the 6.0L, not the same as the sport spec. option. Hope this is of help John Goodman '89 XJR-S 6.0 Using Virtual Access http://www.ashmount.com End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #559 ******************************** Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4) id <JAA19315> for jag-lovers-digest-out; Tue, 3 Dec 1996 09:20:43 +0100 (MET) Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 09:20:43 +0100 (MET) Message-Id: <199612030820.JAA19315@ekeberg.sn.no> From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #560 Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Precedence: bulk Status: O X-Status: X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 3 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 560 Fwd: XJ13 replica RE: FW: XJ-S: Rough Running Jag MKII as a rally car Re: Climate control gremlins Re: MKII steering Leak down testers and testing 85 XJ-S: Tune-up *(?) advise Oil Pressure problem part two of "How I found my Jag" Setting timing on XJ40 Re: Electric Windows XJ40 Hydraulics Re: XJ40 Hydraulics RE: XJ-S: Rough Running Re: V12 exhaust and Catalyst questions Re: XJ13 replica Mk 2 Trunk Lid Mk 2 / Mk 2S Daily driving XJ6 engine performance From: TVJohn2@aol.com Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 19:26:51 -0500 Subject: Fwd: XJ13 replica Forwarded message: Subj: Re: XJ13 replica Date: 96-12-02 19:24:42 EST From: TVJohn2 To: gprice@mack.rt66.com Call Ashton Marshall @ Fine Sports cars in San Diego 619.679.2863--- they've built some and if they're anything like their fabulous Ferarris you'll be knocked out, not inexpensive. John From: Aaron Burnett <aaron.burnett@attws.com> Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 16:57:26 -0800 Subject: RE: FW: XJ-S: Rough Running Thanks for the great information. With regard to the TPS, I am certain that the bellcrank was fully against its stop, so that's out of the picture. How should I test the ground supply to the pot (Sorry this may be a seemingly easy answer, but I have far to little knowledge of automotive electrical systems)? I also want to do a quick reality check to be sure that I have correctly understood Kirby's instructions re: adjusting the throttle pot: To adjust the pot, I have loosened the three bolts that hold the pot to the plate beneath the bellcrank housing and rotate the pot in the direction of the desired adjustment. Kirby's XJ-S Help Book calls these "tiny mounting screws", but on my car they have 5/16' heads (not tiny to me). I also can see three tiny flathead screws that hold the bottom section of the pot to the upper section and want to be sure that these are not the screws with which I should be concerned. With regard to the compression test results, Chad Bolles also pointed out that the throttles should be open -- I didn't know about this. What does this accomplish and how much might this have affected the results? I was using a brand new compression gauge, so I am hopeful that the results are good. Also, I turned the engine over 7-10 times or until the reading appeared to stabilize. You also pointed out that an extremely rich mixture might have caused this problem as well, seems like the TPS reading may be causing this. I appreciate any additional information you or anyone else can provide. I'm getting a great education through this experience! Aaron '85 XJ-S From: Randy Wilson[SMTP:randy@taylor.infi.net] Sent: Sunday, December 01, 1996 9:15 PM To: jag Subject: Re: FW: XJ-S: Rough Running So today I checked the TPS and engine compression. While checking the TPS with an ohmmeter, I found the internal contacts seem to be intact -- the needle on the meter moved smoothly as I rotated the TPS. However, I also found that the TPS showed 5 volts at idle -- substantially different than the 3.2V - 3.8V I was expecting. I attempted to adjust the TPS in the manner outlined in Kirby's book, but found that the minimum figure I could attain was 4.35V. The TPS could not be turned further on the three small mounting screws that hold it. Any ideas why I might get this kind of reading? Any suggestions as to how to rectify the situation? Might this mean I DO have a bad TPS? There are several possibles here. First, make sure the throttle system is returning all of the way to the idle position, the tab on the bellcrank against it's stop. Second, make sure the ground supply to the pot is good... no resistance. Next check your supply voltage. No less than 12.5, no more than 14.0. If all this passes, then it's time to try a new pot. Next, I did a compression test. The results I got both concern and confuse me. They are as follows: 1B = 149lbs 1A = 135lbs 2B = 152lbs 2A = 144lbs 3B = 149lbs 3A = 141lbs 4B = 146lbs 4A = 138lbs 5B = 146lbs 5A = 146lbs 6B = 150lbs 6A = 141lbs My car is an H.E. and so, according to Kirby's book, I should be seeing readings in the 200-220lb range. But these results correspond closely to a pre-H.E. engine for which readings are expected to be between 130 and 150lbs. Again, any ideas? Why are these readings so low? Anyone else done a compression check on an '85 XJ-S? Is it really possible that my engine is SO worn? 220 is the typical number on a correct HE. Low numbers can be caused by not cranking long enough. Not opening the throttles. A bad compression gauge. Radical or mis-timed cams. Tight valve clearances. Or an engine that has been running on an extremely rich fuel mixture, such that it has washed the oil out of the rings. Did you try a wet test? The standard rule-of-thumb is the numbers should be within 10%, low to high. A TPS voltage of 5.0 or so at normal idle speed is going to cause a rich mixture. Get this fixed first, let the engine run for a while to recoup... and try your compression run again. Aaron '85 XJ-S Randy K. Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net From: BD Baikie <bruce@online.dct.com> (by way of BD Baikie <bruce@online.dct.com>) Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 20:22:04 -0600 Subject: Jag MKII as a rally car Hi, I am looking for someone that has setup a Jaguar MKII for rallying. Thanks Bruce Baikie Green Bay, WI From: Randy Wilson <randy@taylor.infi.net> Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 23:11:44 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Climate control gremlins Hi all. I have a strange problem with my climate control system (84 XJ6). It seems that at idle, all is well, but when underpower , the system fades in and out, getting weaker, then stronger again with engine speed. I think it is vacuum related. Have any members had any similar experience with their cats. Thanks in advance. Greg Gangemi You most likely have a vacuum leak. The place this shows up best is when set to max A/C. under acceleration, the center vent will attempt to close, and the defrost vents open. Start at the vacuum source (under the back of the intake manifold), and precede down the line. Check valve. Tee fitting, one side to the reservoir on the left, the other side into the cab via the right footwell (all this based on LHD car... dunno about RHD). If you get this far, then the fun begins, as it starts tee-ing off every which way. :> Randy K. Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net From: Randy Wilson <randy@taylor.infi.net> Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 22:28:27 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: MKII steering Ken FYI I have seen an MKII conversion using XJS rack with rebiult original steering pump for which the convertor claimed " great handling characteristics ". I dont know if the XJS rack is any different from XJ6. Richard The racks are the same, though there are several different ones over the years. Randy K. Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net From: Randy Wilson <randy@taylor.infi.net> Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 23:05:43 -0500 (EST) Subject: Leak down testers and testing Argh... grumble grumble. Where's my soap box? Let's start off with the design of a typical leak down tester. Starting at the air supply, first is a pressure regulator. Then comes a pressure gauge. Next in line is a very restrictive orfice, followed by a second pressure gauge, and finally a connection to the cylinder to be tested. the first gauge reads the pressure on the regulated air supply, and the second gauge reads the pressure on the cylinder side. The common technic is to dial the inlet pressure to 100 psi, then read the second gauge as a percentage. This is often refered to as the percentage of air leaking through the cylinder. Not true. It is the percent of pressure drop across the orfice caused by the air flow through the cylinder. The greater the air flow, the greater the pressure drop. However, the orfice is the key to the actual number you get... and there is no such thing as a standard orfice size. hence the numbers will vary from one manufacter gauge to the next. Next question is how much air leakage is acceptable? This all depends on how big the cylinder is. The bigger the bore, the more ring area there is to leak by. Typically, the valves are bigger, too. Here we could really use a percent of leakage vs. base volume, but our tester is effectively measuring finite volume of flow. So, the numbers are going to vary... gauge to gauge, and engine to engine. What good is it? It's a very useful tool when used in certain applications, and can be misleading in others. I use one on my race engines. I test pretty much after every weekend. I know, with my gauge... on these engines, that this number is excellent, and by this number things are needing looked over. In my case, "5% leakage" is damn good, and I don't start worrying until the numbers start approaching 15. Where it can be misleading is to use an unknown gauge on an unknown engine, under the assumption that X is good, and Y is worn out. While in pretty much any situation, you can assume that a number of 50 or greater is VERY bad, saying the limit of acceptable is 5, or 8, or 12 may well not be true. Randy K. Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik) Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 21:32:14 -0700 Subject: 85 XJ-S: Tune-up *(?) advise Hi everyone, I've got what I think is a tuning type question....hope some of you can help me to identify what I might need to do.... The symptoms: upon starting cold (50 degree mornings in the garage) the cat is very slugish; if I press the accelerator it responds very slowly at first (it doesn't try to die, but it feels as if giving it gas is not doing anything at all), and then gradually but at an increasing rate begins to respond to the gas pedal until it feels normal. I would estimate, this normally takes about 30-60 seconds. Then it runs fine until... When starting warm (not hot; needle maybe halfway between C and N on the gage), I hear what sounds like muffled pops from the front (it sounds like it is backfiring into the air boxes)accompanied by sluggish gas pedal response. After 15-30 seconds this stops and the car runs fine. Lastly, none of these symptoms show up when the car is fully warmed up (needle at the N mark on the gage). Any suggestions ? Thanks in advance, Rob W-M 85 XJ-S From: jello@dns.ida.net (Phil Bates) Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 21:46:34 -0700 Subject: Oil Pressure problem I have a strange oil pressure problem in my mga (which has a 3 main MGB=20 engine in it). =20 Sorry jag-lovers, this is not a jag topic specifically, but may be of=20 general interest. Anyhow, the problem. When I start up the car, I have plenty of oil=20 pressure. When it is warm (thermostat reading 185=B0F) I have enough (about= =20 40 psi). Now if it is cold, and I rev the engine, the pressure goes up and= =20 stays around 65-70 psi. I attribute this to the cold oil. When it is warm,= =20 something weird happens. First, the pressure goes up to the 65-70 psi=20 range, and as the engine speed increases it comes way down, like to 20 psi= =20 or so. I think it must be one of 4 things: 1. bad oil pump i.e. excessive clearances or something stuck in the pick-up= =20 tube 2. bad oil pressure relief valve (or something stuck in it) 3. bad bearings 4. Something I don't know about I'd say bad bearings, but wouldn't the pressure always be low?? Also, someone had suggested it could be the relief valve on my oil filter=20 (yes, the PO did a spin-on conversion), but I just put on a new Wix 51516,= =20 and I doubt this is the problem. I can do a rebuild myself, so I am not afraid of getting my crank ground,=20 and replacing bearings, but I will avoid it if I can. =20 Any suggestions?? Phil Bates 58 MGA 67 MGB 75 Jaguar XJ12C 52 MG TD replicar (VW) From: brett ferguson <howard@calweb.com> Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 20:52:24 -0800 Subject: part two of "How I found my Jag" Anyway, there she was, a black gleaming 67 XKE Roadster, beautiful on the outside and I had to wonder if she were as beautiful on the inside too. I asked the shop owner to pop the hood which he did without hesitation. The view was stunning- aluminum head polished and reflecting the harsh light of the shop, carbeuretors so pretty and shiny, hoses black and new-looking, all engine components readily identifiable, so unlike modern cars. Well... OK how about those serial numbers, do they match? A quick inspection reveals that they do. Rust? A look around the obvious rust-attracting spots indicates hardly any, with the exception of a few places under the floor mats. Mileage? 58,561, original, I am told, miles on the odometer.But what about the top, probably in mothball condition, wrong, new 2 years ago and looks it. By this time I knew that I had to have her, that somehow she would be mine. We were destined for eachother since the first time I laid eyes on (who knows, it could have actually been her) one like her when I was a lad of 16 years. Now I had to know about the PO, why was he selling her, was there anything wrong with her, how long had he owned her, how many others had possesed her? Would he stick to 25,000 or if he knew he had a salivating potential buyer (or sucker) would the price rise dramatically? I communicated my sincere interest to the shop owner who was acting as an intermediary between me and the PO who is a rich lawyer building a new house and he only has space for 4 of his 5 Jags and this is the one he decides to let go.Hmmm. OK, now I'm really curious and feeling more like this could really happen. Tom, the shop owner willingly agrees to communicate my interest to the owner and promises me he'll get back to me ASAP. My heart is beating so fast I have to sit down. Tom asks me if I'd like to go for a ride. God yes. Let's go. TO BE CONTINUED From: Mike Everatt <meveratt@Direct.CA> Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 21:18:59 -0800 Subject: Setting timing on XJ40 This seems like a dumb question, but is it possible to change the timing (spark) on an XJ40. I see no reference to it in my (cheap) manual, yet the distributor does have some room for movement. Where would the timing marks be, and under what conditions should it be checked (warm engine, idle speed ???, in gear or not?, etc) The only reason I ask is I have had the distibutor out (to access the cam tensioner and replace that gasket), and I'm not sure if it's back in the proper position. Mike Everatt 1987 XJ40 From: Kroppe <kroppe@mich.com> Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 20:27:25 -0500 Subject: Re: Electric Windows John Setters <john_setters@eagle.co.nz> wrote:
> Would it be possible to link power to the window switches via the
> interior light / aerial delay circuitry
> so that the windows could be closed after switch off ?
John and all -
I have wired my window switches so that they are always "hot", meaning
I can open and close my windows even when the ignition is switched off
and the key is not in the ignition switch.
This is a bit of a Bubba job, but I did it while I was waiting for my
new window lift relay to come in the mail.
B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6
------------------------------
From: KupyKool@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 01:32:45 -0500
Subject: XJ40 Hydraulics
Michael Neal-
You wrote:
>The struts need to be replaced with the non ride leveling type. There are
two ways >to do it. Use the original springs or the springs Jaguar used
specifically to do the >conversion. Using the original springs will save you
a couple of hundred dollars with >a slightly stiffer ride than the conversion
springs would give. Jaguar is now offering a >kit to update the hydraulic
struts to standard shocks. The charge solenoid is also >probably faulty and
will need to be replaced. It also controls the charge of the brake >system so
it is necessary to make sure it is ok. I can also get parts at a pretty >good
discount so let me know if you are going to go ahead and fix the car.
I hope you can help me with more detailed information about the suspension
problem many have experienced. The rear of my 1988 XJ40 bounces around a good
bit, and the low brake pressure warning comes on for a few seconds on
startup. The brake pedal is harder than I am accustomed to.
I tested the hydraulic system per your posted instructions, and found that
the accumulator (recently replaced, which softened the pedal some) and charge
solenoid seem to be fine. However, the ride leveling struts appear to be shot
- -- the height does not change whether run at or above idle.
Which do you recommend of the several options you presented above? I believe
some members have expressed reservations about using the original springs
with new struts. Is the ride that bad? By the way, if you think the Jaguar
kit is best, what kind of discount can you get? The local dealer wants
$570(US) plus installation, which seems high. Does the kit come with
instructions that would be good enough for a barely literate mechanic, or
should I let the dealer handle this one?
Any advice would be appreciated!
Mike Kupritz
Baltimore, Maryland
------------------------------
From: Michael Neal <mneal@wco.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 22:26:41 -0800
Subject: Re: XJ40 Hydraulics
The ride is pretty stiff with the original springs, personally I prefer it
that way. I'll check on the price for the kit.
At 01:32 AM 12/3/96 -0500, KupyKool@aol.com wrote:
>Michael Neal-
>
>You wrote:
>
>>The struts need to be replaced with the non ride leveling type. There are
>two ways >to do it. Use the original springs or the springs Jaguar used
>specifically to do the >conversion. Using the original springs will save you
>a couple of hundred dollars with >a slightly stiffer ride than the conversion
>springs would give. Jaguar is now offering a >kit to update the hydraulic
>struts to standard shocks. The charge solenoid is also >probably faulty and
>will need to be replaced. It also controls the charge of the brake >system so
>it is necessary to make sure it is ok. I can also get parts at a pretty >good
>discount so let me know if you are going to go ahead and fix the car.
>
>I hope you can help me with more detailed information about the suspension
>problem many have experienced. The rear of my 1988 XJ40 bounces around a good
>bit, and the low brake pressure warning comes on for a few seconds on
>startup. The brake pedal is harder than I am accustomed to.
>
>I tested the hydraulic system per your posted instructions, and found that
>the accumulator (recently replaced, which softened the pedal some) and charge
>solenoid seem to be fine. However, the ride leveling struts appear to be shot
>-- the height does not change whether run at or above idle.
>
>Which do you recommend of the several options you presented above? I believe
>some members have expressed reservations about using the original springs
>with new struts. Is the ride that bad? By the way, if you think the Jaguar
>kit is best, what kind of discount can you get? The local dealer wants
>$570(US) plus installation, which seems high. Does the kit come with
>instructions that would be good enough for a barely literate mechanic, or
>should I let the dealer handle this one?
>
>Any advice would be appreciated!
>
>Mike Kupritz
>Baltimore, Maryland
>
>
------------------------------
From: Jeffrey Gram <101454.2570@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 03 Dec 96 02:19:00 EST
Subject: RE: XJ-S: Rough Running
Hi Jan Wikstroem,
Dont know the answer to the "how sofisticated is the LUCAS/bosch injection on
your XJ12L
1977 ?, but if it is an early injection system non-HE then the system is not a
K-jetronic, but it is a D-jetronic system (the ECU is a 3CU type), of brand
Bosch, badge-engineered to "Lucas".
The Bosch K-jetronic is also called a CIS (Continous Injection System), since it
is fully mechanical system injecting fuel continiously (no shut periods).
Regards Jeffrey Gram
------------------------------
From: Jeffrey Gram <101454.2570@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 03 Dec 96 02:19:03 EST
Subject: Re: V12 exhaust and Catalyst questions
Chad,
Thanks for the info on "special" V12 exhaust piping just after the down pipes.
But I may have to have catalysts on my German V12. I think this reduces the
12.5:1 compression ratio standard engine to 264 BHP rather than 295 for the
non-catalyst version.
The catalyst question is a little difficult to "decide". The roadtaxes goes
1/1-1997 from 1000 DM (about 750 US $) a year to the double amount for
non-catalyst cars. The Dealer conversion is about 7500$ - an enormous amount
since this is about 80 % of the value of the car (a 1984 XJ12 sovereign HE).
Thus the catalyst conversion is an investment that has doubtful value - i.e. it
takes about 10 years to break even if the non-catalyst roadtaxes stays the same.
To this comes the always tougher legislation, which already now will ban
non-catalyst cars in germany during summer high ozone-level periods, and later
the cars may be banned altogether. Diffucult to decid - any view on such ? I
dont race my Jag, I like the silent power it generates, and would expect an
enhanced exhaust system to still be silent , possibly just with a change in
note.
But the exhaust type question is interesting. Is it possible to modify the
exhaust system i.e big bore and still have catalyst in there - without
completely "ruining" the effect of the big bores - is there a net effect ? is it
worth the investnment in the big bore exhaust pipe system - how much does a big
bore system cost ?
Are there for example catalysts which are especially for big volume engines
which are significantly better (less restriction) than the standard cats ? or
must I build in a quatro cat system ? Any room ? prohibitedly expensive ? .
The big bore system that passes under the differential rather than "through" I
presume, steals ground clearance ? how much ? are the pipes "flat" under the
diff e.g. 1 by 5 inches rather than 2.5 inch round ?. What about heat - will
the diff survive ?.
On the Head question the bigger exhaust valve sounds interesting, but what about the May head effect - is that affected ? adversely ?, risk of "uncontrolled" detonation ? how big is such a big valve for a V12 HE head ?. I'm curious about the multiangle valve job also - how many angles ? what are the values ? standard values?. Sorry for all the questions, but you stirred up my curiosity. Regards Jeffrey Gram From: Jeffrey Gram <101454.2570@CompuServe.COM> Date: 03 Dec 96 02:25:29 EST Subject: Re: XJ13 replica Vicarage builds them too I believe, standard with the mickey mouse engine (only) 5.3 litre and 300 BHP twin cam, prigina; 4.9 litre, 500 BHP and quad cam engins. Vicarage can however deliver nearly what you want. Credit card OK ? Swap adresses ? Regards jeffrey Gram From: Ken Wallace <kwallac2@ix.netcom.com> Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 23:35:09 -0800 Subject: Mk 2 Trunk Lid ...........I also would like to replace my trunk lid since I have some rust at the bottom seam. This seems to be the only rust in the car and it would be nice to >have a rust free one to replace it. Ken Wallace Lenny Seidman wrote:
>Ken: Sorry the trunk lid is very rusty at the bottom edge.
- --
Thanks for checking this for me. I am still interested in the
transmission, clutch and drive shaft. I doubt if it would be economical to
bring the whole car all the way from PA to CA. Perhaps someone could be
found who would be willing to do the labor of pulling out the parts for a
reasonable fee.
Re: Battery dimensions; I have the car out for a rear suspension rebuild. I
will probably have a chance to get these dimensions for you tomorrow.
Ken Wallace
------------------------------
From: Ken Wallace <kwallac2@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 1996 23:56:32 -0800
Subject: Mk 2 / Mk 2S Daily driving
Dr. Dave Arnold wrote:
>Just a rambling note to make contact after your post to jag-lovers
>recently. I like the Mk 2 so much that I was prepared to sell my XJ6L
>II, my daily driver, to get one. In the end, I bought an S-type. It's
>still with the PO in Cape Town, but with luck I'll go down and fly it
>back to Johannesburg on Dec. 20. What a nice Xmas present! The S will
>be my daily driver, I hope.
Thanks for your posting and congratulations on your new S type. The thing I
particularly like about the S type is the "enhanced" interior over the Mk 2.
The wood is quite a bit more sumptuous. I don't think any Jag after the MK X
has had a proper interior. The safety Nazis ended it for us in the interest
of those who refuse to use thier seat belts. Of course the IRS on the 3.8S
will be an additional benefit. You will probably suffer from the same poor
steering that I am experiencing with the Burman power steerning box.
It detracts from what could be wonderful road manners. I am fixing mine as a
top priority with a power assisted rack and pinion. I am trying to work out a
way to do this inexpensively as the kits that are available are quite expensive.
If you are interested I will be posting the info on this to Jag-lovers.
Ken Wallace
------------------------------
From: "pcsolutions" <pcsolutions@mindspring.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 02:42:56 -0600
Subject: XJ6 engine performance
I am looking at a 87 XJ6 and it looks like I'm going to drop the
coins and buy that puppy. Hell YES I'm excited. I have been a Jag
lover for a long time... ever since I first drove one out the service
lanes at the dealership where I fell in LOVE right away... I'd give
up my girlfriend before I give up this Jag, I can find another
lady... but finding a great Jag? Yup the lady has got to go ;)
I have a few questions for Kirby & Chad, and whoever else has some
useful info. Pulling the engine and going through it complete are
among some of the things I have planned. It is in very good running
condition now... but... I want to put some more ponies under the
hood. My main experience is centered around repairing Jags not
modifying them.
So I would appreciate any info about head mods - valve sizes &
replacement recomendations - spring pressures - cam selections - cam
timing etc.
Sources for pistons... what is the max safe size to bore the block.
Ring choices. Gasket selection.
Exhaust mods - possibly gutting the converters... pipe diameter...
aftermarket kits...
Fuel system mods.
Where is a good source for parts to change the ratio in the diff to
3.5/1 - 3.75/1
Any advice or good reference sources would be greatly appreciated.
- ----------------------------------------------------------
"Cogito Ergo Lpomoea Batatas"
I think therefore I yam
- ----------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #560
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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 3 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 561
Re: Re: Electric Windows / interior lights
Re: Oil Pressure problem
Re: XJ6 to XJ12 conversion
Re: CD changer for 93 XJ6
XJ40 Wheel Dust Shields
MK 11 Rack & Pinion
Re: XJ13 replica
Re: Setting timing on XJ40
Re: V12 exhaust and Catalyst questions
Sign -off
over. In my case, "5% leakage" is damn good, and I don't start worrying until th
Re: XJ40 Wheel Dust Shields
RE: Radio Fuse
XJ6 Engine performance
Re: Re: Electric Windows / interior lights
RE: Volunteers Needed
Re: XJ13 replica
Re: V12 exhaust and Catalyst questions
Re: XJ13 replica
Re: Mk 2 Daily Driving
Re: Mk 2 Engine cooling and Transmission
RE: FW: XJ-S: Rough Running
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Thorsten_Ploss@magicvillage.de (Thorsten Ploss)
Date: 03 Dec 1996 08:02:08 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: Electric Windows / interior lights
Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR,mfl@kheops.cray.com,Internet schreibt:
I've done this on my '88 XJ-S. I simply used the door contacts and a
relay, e.g. you can operate the windows if a door is open. I did this
to prevent that our little daugther might hurt herself when waiting
in the car with the doors closed.
Took me about an 1hrs. I put the relay under the passengers glove box.
And it's a really nice feature to have !
- - matthias
Hi Matthias, hi to everybody!
This topic started an idea in my head. But first: I�ve got no idea in
electrics nor electronics... ;-(
Well, on my SIII Daimler Double Six (12/93) the interior ligths turn off if I
close the doors. I�d preferr to get some more time (maybe 60 sec.) until they
turn off. It would be great, if they would turn off slowly...
Is this easy? What kind of relais/circuit do I need? Is there a difference
performing this for all 4 doors or only the drivers door?
Thanks Thorsten
gato verde (12/93 Daimler Double Six)
------------------------------
From: BarneyMG@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 04:15:39 -0500
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure problem
Phil,
In a message dated 96-12-02 23:53:08 EST, jello@dns.ida.net (Phil Bates)
writes:
<< When I start up the car, I have plenty of oil pressure. ..... When it is
warm, something weird happens. First, the pressure goes up to the 65-70 psi
range, and as the engine speed increases it comes way down, like to 20 psi or
so. .....
Any suggestions?? >>
Look for a dent in the bottom of the oil pan. It doesn't take much, just a
little upward bow in the center. My MGA had this problem, and it ate up a
couple of sets of rod bearings and a crankshaft before I figured it out. A
little dent in the pan moves the bottom up against the oil pickup tube, the
clearance at the oil inlet becomes zilch, and the pump cavitates at high
speeds. Not hard to fix. Just remove the pan, give it a good downward thump
in the center with you fist, and install a new pickup screen.
Barney Gaylord -- 1958 MGA
------------------------------
From: Greg Meboe <meboe@scs.wsu.edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 01:32:12 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: XJ6 to XJ12 conversion
On Thu, 28 Nov 1996, Gregory W. Price wrote:
> This sounds like fun! How does one go about it? I have an '85 XJ6
> and the thought of an XJ12 has a decent amount of appeal. Does
> anyone have details, or is it as straightforward as it appears?
Our car starter life as a white 82 XJ-6 with an engine and interior fire.
Now it is a black 85-87 XJ-12 H.E. The conversion was performed by a Jag
restoration shop and wrecking yard which I used to work at.
The car is not ultra-fast by today's standards, but it cruises
comfortably at high speeds.
I will be happy to answer any questions you have, or if you come
to the Pacific Northwest, let you evaluate the car. Currently I'm in
France, but I return at the end of December.
Greg
Greg Meboe meboe@atc.boeing.com
Currently on assignment in Central France...
Web site>> http://www.scs.wsu.edu/~meboe
Mechanical Engineer Boeing Payloads Division
'85 XJ-12 H.E. (daily) '67 Spit-6 '74 TR-6
------------------------------
From: "Claus, Mike" <claus@wg.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 96 08:10:06 EST
Subject: Re: CD changer for 93 XJ6
The CD changers that Jaguar supplied in the '93's was Alpine.
You can probably still purchase the units, or it's next
generation counterpart, and have it slip right in.
- mclaus
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: CD changer for 93 XJ6
Author: Kevin.Campbell@vwr-inc.com at WG-RAL-SMTP
Date: 12/2/96 3:47 PM
Does anyone know of an aftermarket CD changer that can be fitted to my 93 XJ6?
As I understand it the wiring is already in place, and the radio appears to
have CD controls incorporated within it.
Thanks
Kevin
------------------------------
From: RDIAZ@maila.harris.com (RDIAZ)
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 08:16:19 -0500
Subject: XJ40 Wheel Dust Shields
Does anyone know where I can buy a set of wheel dust shields for my
1990 XJ40 with factory wheels (US)? I'm getting pretty tired of
cleaning the brake dust off the front wheels every week!
Thank you in advance.
Ricardo Diaz
1990 XJ40 (dirty front wheels)
rdiaz@harris.com
Melbourne, Florida, USA
<end>
------------------------------
From: CCULLIFORD@ADMIN.LAURENTIAN.CA
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 08:36:54 -0500 (EST)
Subject: MK 11 Rack & Pinion
Good Morning All:
I've been following with interest the discussion about fitting modern rack
and pinion steering to a MK11 and noticed last night a short article in the
Nov. Thoroughbred and Classic Cars about a chap in Britain who has done that
along with a number of other mods. Anyway, the point is he refers to the
source of this kit and some brake/suspension items that have been changed.
It's on page 100 if I remember. Some interesting points.
Regards Chris
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
Christopher Culliford Laurentian University
cculliford@admin.laurentian.ca Sudbury, Ontario
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
From: Chad Bolles <aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 08:40:16 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ13 replica
Greg: There is a company in Largo FL that makes the XJ13
replica,Preditor, I think it is called. I think this is the number 813
539 0218 Dan LigasOn Mon, 2 Dec 1996, Gregory W. Price wrote:
> Does anyone know of a company that produces an XJ13 replica? I only know
> of Colborne's in the UK, but are there any others? Any info, or rumors,
> appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Greg Price
>
------------------------------
From: Chad Bolles <aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 09:00:37 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Setting timing on XJ40
Mike: If you installed the distributor near where it should be the ECU
will set the timing correctly. All the distributor does in your car is
provide a place for the ing wires. An ECU controls all timing.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044
------------------------------
From: Chad Bolles <aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 09:11:50 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: V12 exhaust and Catalyst questions
Jeffery: I have several sets of cats just doing nothing $200 each for the
head pipe cat $100 each for the second cat, that and a couple of gaskets,
some time and you saved yourself around $6800 bucks.
I have never had a bottoming out problem with my XJ-S with the pipes
under the diff,heck all Corvettes are that way.
I will get you the angles for the valves, most shops only do the seats,
but the real secret is also doing the valve as well.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044
------------------------------
From: Mareks Malnacs <mareks@dogs.sun.swh.lv>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 16:41:45 +0200
Subject: Sign -off
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Please, sign-off me.
Regards,
M.Malnacs
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OIUAAAEAAAABAAAAAAAAAB4APQABAAAAAQAAAAAAAAADAA00/TcAADOt
- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BBE138.E2541500--
------------------------------
From: DHarr13177@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 09:43:50 -0500
Subject: over. In my case, "5% leakage" is damn good, and I don't start worrying until th
Wow ! your numbers are way different from what I read in Smokey Yunick's book
( he claims to have invented leakdown testing. ) I just had a 4.2 rebuilt and
got 5-8 % leak at 1,000 mi My 'real life' readings are similar to yours.
What are the top guys doing that we aren't (maybe lying ? ) Before rebuilding
I had 10-40 % leak
Doug
------------------------------
From: Michael Powers/TEIR/Thomson <Michael_Powers@teir.com>
Date: 3 Dec 96 10:10:13
Subject: Re: XJ40 Wheel Dust Shields
Check out your local Pep Boys Automotive Super Store( http://www.pepboys.com
). A mere 15 bucks per shield!
- -Mike
RDIAZ @ maila.harris.com
12/03/96 08:16 AM
To: jag-lovers @ sn.no @ Internet
cc:
Subject: XJ40 Wheel Dust Shields
Does anyone know where I can buy a set of wheel dust shields for my
1990 XJ40 with factory wheels (US)? I'm getting pretty tired of
cleaning the brake dust off the front wheels every week!
Thank you in advance.
Ricardo Diaz
1990 XJ40 (dirty front wheels)
rdiaz@harris.com
Melbourne, Florida, USA
<end>
------------------------------
From: Brian Richgels <jaguar@brainerd.net>
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 09:20:22 -0800
Subject: RE: Radio Fuse
During the installation of a CD player in my 1985 XJ6,I discovered the
location of my low amperage(3 amps)in-line radio fuse. It is located
under the gear shift console,left side,red wire. Hope that helps....
------------------------------
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 09:12:56 -0600 (CST)
Subject: XJ6 Engine performance
>
>So I would appreciate any info about head mods - valve sizes &
>replacement recomendations - spring pressures - cam selections - cam
>timing etc.
>
>Sources for pistons... what is the max safe size to bore the block.
>Ring choices. Gasket selection.
>
Get a copy of "The XJ6 Jaguar from Bumper to Bumper" off the web page, It
tells you all about the head mods you want to do.
JIM I.
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas."
Gen. Emiliano Zapata
1879-1919
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
From: "Kirbert" <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 10:35:45 -0005
Subject: Re: Re: Electric Windows / interior lights
Thorsten:
> Well, on my SIII Daimler Double Six (12/93) the interior ligths
> turn off if I close the doors. I+d preferr to get some more time
> (maybe 60 sec.) until they turn off. It would be great, if they
> would turn off slowly...
Hmmm. My '83 XJ-S already has such a delay. I'm VERY surprised your
car does not. Is this Ford's influence?
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm's Postulate
------------------------------
From: "Martin Fooks" <Martin.Fooks@centurasoft.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 96 12:59:20 PST
Subject: RE: Volunteers Needed
Kirby,
In response to your very well thought out points I contacted my friend
Suzanne Wright of Kelsey publishing ("Jaguar World" magazine
publishers) who seemed very interested in finding out more about the
two books. I have faxed her the front page from the book along with a
contact number for Jim as well and would assume that she or one of the
others from the magazine should be in contact soon.
You would have to think about the best way to promote the books using
the mag (maybe allowing them to print exerpts from the books in
exchange for contributing towards the annual upkeep of the Jag-Lovers
list and of course free annual subscription for the books authors?).
In business there is no such thing as a free lunch but bearing that in
mind, as an XJS owner your book has been one of my best finds on the
internet (I would gladly have paid for the book knowing how useful
it's contents are).
Martin
------------------------------
From: "Mark McChesney" <mmcchesn@ford.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 11:03:37 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ13 replica
On Dec 3, 8:40am, Chad Bolles wrote:
> Subject: Re: XJ13 replica
> Greg: There is a company in Largo FL that makes the XJ13
> replica,Preditor, I think it is called. I think this is the number 813
> 539 0218 Dan Ligas
I spoke with one of the Ligas brothers a while back - nice guy. I think they
do a pretty good job on the mechanicals but the (fiberglass) body is WAY off
from the real thing. I offered to see if Ford would give them the math data on
the body surface since we scanned the XK13 when we had it here a few years ago.
They were not interested - too much work to redue the moulds. They were not
real excited about building any more of the cars either - seems they are a bear
to build.
Mark McChesney
------------------------------
From: "Jim Cantrell" <jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 09:07:12 MDT
Subject: Re: V12 exhaust and Catalyst questions
> detonation ? how big is such a big valve for a V12 HE head ?. I'm curious about
> the multiangle valve job also - how many angles ? what are the values ?
> standard values?.
The V12 is designed for a straight 45 degree cut. You can add a
multi angle cut but what will happen is that the valve will sit lower
in the head and getting proper tappet clearances can be difficult.
Often, people at this point will then cut the valve stem to get the
additional clearance. This will then cause the valve stem's life to
be reduced since the stems are hardened. This hardening only
penetrates a few thousanths of an inch and cutting it off exposes the
softer valve material. I have not tried all of this, its simply what
the common wisdom among head builders is. For a race motor, its
likely to be OK but you would expect more tappet clearance wear on a
long-term street motor.
Kind Regards,
Jim Cantrell
------------------------------
From: Nick Johannessen <nick@sn.no>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 17:14:51 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: XJ13 replica
On Tue, 3 Dec 1996, Chad Bolles wrote:
> Greg: There is a company in Largo FL that makes the XJ13
> replica,Preditor, I think it is called.
>
> > Does anyone know of a company that produces an XJ13 replica? I only know
> > of Colborne's in the UK, but are there any others? Any info, or rumors,
> > appreciated.
The Predator D-type and "XJ13" replicas can be found on the
Jag-lovers web-site at http://www.sn.no/home/nick/jaguar.html,
or by direct url http://home.sn.no/home/nick/replica.html
The Vicarage XJ13 is portrayed on their web-pages at www.jagweb.com,
direct link is http://www.jagweb.com/vicarage/vicarag2.html
Others making XJ13's include the UK company Protheus that also
do a coupe version, both featured on the BBC programmed "Top Gear".
Pretty cool stuff.
There have also been efforts in Australis. To my knowledge the
most correct and proper cars are the Vicarage and the Proteus,
and possibly the Oz one.
The Predator is more a "kinda-lookalike".
Nick
------------------------------
From: John McDonagh <jmcdonagh@bus.wisc.edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 10:15:49 -0600
Subject: Re: Mk 2 Daily Driving
I intended this to go to the list as well as Ken Wallace so her it is reposted.
>Back home in New Zealand I use my Mark 2 as almost a daily driver - it is
>my only car with four doors and a towbar. As with Ken I have never had any
>overheating problems though it rarely gets above 30C where I live. This
>especially surprised me as I converted mine from a 2.4 to 3.4 and did not
>change the standard radiator which I thought was smaller on the 2.4.
>
>I have also raced mine a little and it has 2 inch SU's fitted. It gets a
>little hotter when being reved regularly to 5500 but as long as you let it
>cool down for a few minutes before you turn it off it never boils. In the
>summer though, you do get incredible heat soak from the engine back into
>the cabin. Sometimes the metal part of the gearstick gets so hot you can't
>touch it. You have to drive with the windows open if it's over 25C,
>opening the rear vent windows is particularly helpful.
>
>If you go through the car thoroughly in the first place I don't think
>there is any reason why you can't use a Mk2 daily. I have only been
>stopped by a fuel pump failure and a fuel line breakage in over 50,000
>miles and I got home in both cases - one by judicious thumping every few
>miles, the other using a bit of hose and hose clips "borrowed" from
>another non essential part of the car.
>
>I do think "mechanics feel" is a great help in running a Mark 2 though.
>Don't ignore those "noises" unless you know what they are and always check
>under the hood before a long trip. That said, my wife often drives the Mk
>2 by herself at night to her mothers house 120 miles away in the country
>and is not worried by the prospect.
>
>John McDonagh
>
>
>
>
>
------------------------------
From: John McDonagh <jmcdonagh@bus.wisc.edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 10:17:30 -0600
Subject: Re: Mk 2 Engine cooling and Transmission
In Reply to Lenny Seidman's questions of Ken Wallace,
I have a five speed Toyota box in my Mark 2 - a common conversion in
Australia and New Zealand - standard Dellow bellhousings are available to
fit and the box is strong and cheap. Works perfectly with 3.54 ratio diff
standard in autos.
I have Koni Shocks all round, set on their stiffest settings, not cheap but
very good. I have also turned the front top inner wishbone pivots upside
down and have a 1 inch thick anti roll bar - this makes a major difference
in handling.
I use 205/65 Goodyear tyres on wires all round. I have had 60 series tyres
on but they look silly. Lower profile stiff sidewall tyres also radically
improve the handling and grip. These are as big a tyre as you can fit
without removing the spats on the back or rubbing on the guards over bumps
on full lock on the front.
John McDonagh
------------------------------
From: "Jim Cantrell" <jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 09:21:09 MDT
Subject: RE: FW: XJ-S: Rough Running
> >>readings in the 200-220lb range. But these results correspond closely
> >>to a pre-H.E. engine for which readings are expected to be between 130
> >>and 150lbs.
> >>
> >>Again, any ideas? Why are these readings so low? Anyone else done a
> >>compression check on an '85 XJ-S? Is it really possible that my engine
> >>is SO worn?
Elevation has a great effect on this reading as well. As is well
known, the higher the elevation, the lower the pressure. This
ambient pressure affects the volumetric efficiency of the motor
compared to sea level readings. Most of the quotes are for sea level
readings.. I live at 5000 feet where the air is 84 kPa compared to
101 KPa at sea level. My compression readings on my 76 XJ12C are in
the vicinity of 100 psi. Corrected for ambient pressure, I would
expect readings of 120 psi at sea level. Also, I don't open the
throttle when I check it and I've found that this is good for a few
psi more. I rarely see motors in this part of the world that have
over 110 psi on the compression readings and I attribute this mostly
to altitude pressure differences.
> >
> >
> >220 is the typical number on a correct HE. Low numbers can be caused by
> >not cranking long enough. Not opening the throttles. A bad compression
> >gauge. Radical or mis-timed cams. Tight valve clearances. Or an engine
> >that has been running on an extremely rich fuel mixture, such that it
> >has washed the oil out of the rings. Did you try a wet test?
> >
> >The standard rule-of-thumb is the numbers should be within 10%, low to
> >high.
> >
> >A TPS voltage of 5.0 or so at normal idle speed is going to cause a rich
> >mixture. Get this fixed first, let the engine run for a while to recoup...
> >and try your compression run again.
> >
> >
> >
> >>
> >>Aaron
> >>'85 XJ-S
> >
> >
> > Randy K. Wilson
> > randy@taylor.infi.net
> >
> >
>
Kind Regards,
Jim Cantrell
------------------------------
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #561
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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 4 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 562
Re: '67 XKE Convertible Purchase
jag book
Re: Re: Electric Windows / interior lights
Re: Volunteers Needed
Re: Window rocker switches.
XJS Low Idle
XJ-S manual transmissions
Volunteers Needed
Re: Re: Re: Electric Windows / interior lights
Volunteers Needed -- Again
Speed Trap '88 xj-s
FW: Re: Re: Electric Windows / interior lights
XJ40 headlamp kits- available
The land of Oz (No Jag content)
Re: Volunteers Needed
FW: Re: Re: Electric Windows / interior lights -Reply
Re: XJ6 Engine performance
Re: V12 exhaust and Catalyst questions
Re: jag book
Re: XJ-S manual transmissions
FW: Re: Re: Electric Windows / i
Re: XJ-S: Headlights
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: jonathon@protech.com (Jonathon Shevelew)
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 16:44:00 GMT
Subject: Re: '67 XKE Convertible Purchase
On Mon, 2 Dec 1996 22:00:14 -0500, you wrote:
>In a message dated 96-11-20, Jonathon Shevelew wrote:
>
><< I have an opportunity to purchase a 1967 XKE Convertible. The car =
has
> received an off-chassis restoration but has not been re-assembled. . . =
.>>
>
>I am curious to hear the next part of this potential purchase story. Is
>there a next part?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jim
>
>
Actually, thanks to the feedback I got from folks on the list, two
things became painfully apparent. The first was that neither of these
cars appeared to be agressively priced and the second was a reality
check for me to decide whether I could put potentially 700+ hours into
this type of project.
After some soul searching, I realized that I probably need to find a
car that's closer to completion than these were. So my search
continues.
I do gratefully thank everyone who responded and for sharing their
wisdom and experience.
Jonathon Shevelew
'95 XJ-S 4.0L Convertible
'93 VDP
'96 Explorer (something for the kids to dirty up)
jonathon@protech.com
------------------------------
From: LEAMYS@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 11:46:43 -0500
Subject: jag book
looking for a book called "jag conversions" by mike knells or knellis.
any one have any feedback on this publication?
Steven M Leamy
------------------------------
From: theo bremner <tbremner@lynx.dac.neu.edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 12:09:54 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Re: Electric Windows / interior lights
Thorsten: and others wanting delay on interior lighting
There is a very simple transistor circuit that can be built to
accomplish this delay you are speaking about. I built on for my 87
Subaru wagon and I made it so that it was settable time wise via a small
potentiometer on the device itself. If you are interested in it I can
see if I have the schematic around somewhere and get it to you or
someone who can post it because unfortunately I don't have a scanner.
The device works off the discharging of a capacitor through a transistor
and based on this capacitor's discharge rate which is set by the
potentiometer you can dely the 12 volts to the interior lighting or to
any electrical device for that matter.
Hope this is useful....
Theo
tbremner@lynx.neu.edu
85 SOV SIII
------------------------------
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 18:24:44 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: Volunteers Needed
> In business there is no such thing as a free lunch but bearing that in
> mind, as an XJS owner your book has been one of my best finds on the
> internet (I would gladly have paid for the book knowing how useful
> it's contents are).
I would like to jump in here and also thanks Kirby for his execellent book.
Thanks
- - Matthias
------------------------------
From: "Peter Hamel (h)" <pete-hamel@dial.pipex.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Dec 1996 19:52:04 +0000
Subject: Re: Window rocker switches.
Paul Brand wrote:
>
>
> Hello All,
>
> has any one used a 3rd party relpacement part for the electric window
> switches, orginals are fine but @ Australian $50 - $90 they are pretty steep.
>
> Cheers
> Paul
> '74 XJ12L
Heres a message from someone else that I kept in case I needed the
details, it might be of interest to you.......
Subject:
Window Lift Switches, good sub.
Date:
Tue, 08 Oct 96 13:40:23 -0500
From:
"Phil Patton" <ppatton@ibm.net>
To:
"Jaguar Lovers" <jag-lovers@sn.no>
You may not want to read this if you have never
had any trouble with your window and/or sunroof
switches. I have found a switch which is less
expensive, IMHO looks much better, and I am
positive will last much, much longer. The part is
GC number 35-3565 (green light) or 35-3570 (red
light). This part fits the exsisting hole
perfectly, and has a small, coloured illuminated
strip across it, making it easy to find in the
dark. It is rated at 20 amps @ 12 volts and is
(unlike the jag switch) completely sealed so that
dirt cannot contaminate the contacts. They sell
for US $10.92 each and should be available from
any decent size electronics parts house. I got
mine from Shields Electronic Supply in
Chattanooga. (423) 624-0071. The only modification
necessary to use this part is to cut off the plug
(on the wiring harness) and replace it with push
on lugs on each wire. If you don't like the light
then just don't connect it.
Phil
------------------------------
From: Joe Bunik <jbunik@bayarea.net>
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 09:44:24 -0800
Subject: XJS Low Idle
I have a late '87 XJS... When I turn on the blower for either heat or
air conditioning my idle drops from 700 rpm to around 300 rpm... I have
gone through Kirby's XJS book but not found anything quite resembling
this problem..
Is there a relay or such which boosts the idle when a load is placed on
the electrical system or does this indicate a problem with the blower
motor or resistor pack? The blower motors seem to make as much pressure
as before but the idle drop is a problem in stop and go traffic.
Kind regards for any assistance,
Joe Bunik
jbunik@bayarea.net
'87 XJS
------------------------------
From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 12:30:36 -0600
Subject: XJ-S manual transmissions
This is a Mime message, which your current mail reader
may not understand. Parts of the message will appear as
text. To process the remainder, you will need to use a Mime
compatible mail reader. Contact your vendor for details.
- --IMA.Boundary.678536948
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Description: cc:Mail note part
To all who have a US XJ-S V-12 that has been converted to manual:
1: What pedal box, pedals, etc. were used to convert your vehicle?
I've been told that the pedal box from the European 6-cylinder cars
will not fit because the firewalls are different. I've also been told
that there never was a V-12 5-speed factory built XJ-S for any market.
If both of those statements are true, then does that mean the only
pedal assemblies that would work are from the handful of early V12's
that had a four-speed transmission?
2. What transmission did you use? If a Getrag (the one I prefer)
what year/model vehicle did it come from?
3. What bell housing? Where did it come from originally?
4. Did all V12 blocks have exactly the same bolt pattern for a bell
housing? Put another way, will a bell housing that fits a Jag V12 of
any year (including E-Types, XJ-12C's) fit any other V12? Did any of
the sixes use a bell housing that also fits a 12?
5. The early Getrags have provisions for a mechanical speedometer.
The later ones do not. Do both versions use the same bell housing?
Any other specific information would be thankfully received. Please
offer only known facts or clearly identify opinions.
Thanks in advance
MikeC
- --IMA.Boundary.678536948--
------------------------------
From: "Kirbert" <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 13:26:53 -0005
Subject: Volunteers Needed
Thought of one more idea for a project.
Whenever good info comes over jag-lovers, I save the messages in
hopes of eventually getting around to incorporating the good stuff
into my XJ-S book. Ideally, I try to confirm what I can and edit
things down to a minimum; the book is large enough already, and
keeping the reliability of the info included as high as possible is
always a concern.
I have included some descriptions of how to rework the burl wood.
However, I really am no expert on wood refinishing, and all these
discussions about tung oil vs. polyuretane vs. marine spar varnish
just confuse me. What's worse, it appears that everyone else is
confused as well, as there appear to be opinions in all directions.
If I merely include all the various procedures and recommendations
in the book, it will grow quite a bit indeed, and most of the stuff
will be conflicting.
It'd be great if someone who really knows wood refinishing were to
write a treatise on the subject of Jaguar interior woodwork. This
would have the advantage of covering all Jaguars (and other cars as
well), not just the XJ-S, and I could merely refer to it in my book
and forget about trying to cover this topic myself.
Of course, maybe such a writeup already exists. If so, someone
please tell me about it so I can add THAT info. Please remember that
my book is intended for Web-surfers and computer illiterates alike, a
phone number or s-mail address for sources is needed, not just a WWW
page.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm's Postulate
------------------------------
From: Thorsten_Ploss@magicvillage.de (Thorsten Ploss)
Date: 03 Dec 1996 18:07:39 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Electric Windows / interior lights
palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu,Internet schreibt:
>Thorsten:
>> Well, on my SIII Daimler Double Six (12/93) the interior ligths
>> turn off if I close the doors. I+d preferr to get some more time
>> (maybe 60 sec.) until they turn off. It would be great, if they
>> would turn off slowly...
>Hmmm. My '83 XJ-S already has such a delay. I'm VERY surprised your
>car does not. Is this Ford's influence?
Well, my JAGdeaker told my only the early SIII modells had this feature...
Thorsten
------------------------------
From: "Kirbert" <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 14:21:04 -0005
Subject: Volunteers Needed -- Again
Y'know, I thought of yet another project.
Someone with access to Jaguar books could create a WWW page or some
other reference with descriptions of the various books available.
There are hundreds of books out there for Jags, but very little way
to tell what the book covers until you shell out $$$ for it. If
you're looking for a book on how to take your Jag apart and you end
up with a book on how the car was designed, you've wasted your money.
A summary of what the scope of each book is would be great.
It may be necessary or helpful for such a provider to accept input
from others regarding various books, rather than trying to review
all the books themselves.
I would expect it'd be a better idea to limit the descriptions to
facts such as what the scope of the book covers, how many b&w and
color photos are in it, how many pages, etc., and avoid altogether
the issue of whether or not the book is worth a s__t.
Of course, a listing of sources for buying the books would be helpful
too.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm's Postulate
------------------------------
From: s_draper@wcsr.com
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 14:21:01 -0500
Subject: Speed Trap '88 xj-s
Away from the office at high noon, I eased the xj-s from the on-ramp to
the highway. I caught sight of a young woman watching the xj-s from
the far lane; her interest in the car was obvious. Not wanting to
disappoint her, I lowered the accelerator, taking my time, but fast, and
showing not the slightest interest in the game I was playing. I was the
Jaguar.
The car obeyed, leaping forward in a smooth streak of deep blue; the
V12 converting its explosive energy into a strong, steady increase in
speed. The sun radiated down from the clear blue sky, the rays
bouncing off the chrome of the cat. I was gone.
Surely a sight to see from outside, but inside, as always, a glitch. The
speedometer climbed steadily to 78mph, and then froze. Irritation. With
no chicken bone in reach, I tapped, then beat, on the gauge housing, but
no luck. Repeated decreases and increases in speed were of no
assistance in freezing the speedometer from its Yugoish state.
Can someone give a suggestion on working on this problem? It doesn't
seem like the cable; I think it must be the gauge. On days like today, part
of the fun of driving is knowing how fast you're going, not that I'd
exceed the speed limit, of course.
- --Steve
'88 xj-s
'89 xj40vdp
e-mail at:
s_draper@wcsr.com
------------------------------
From: Aaron Burnett <aaron.burnett@attws.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 11:55:01 -0800
Subject: FW: Re: Re: Electric Windows / interior lights
As an additional note on this topic:
I can only assume that your dealer was wrong as my '85 XJ-S also has
this feature.
Aaron
>----------
>From: Thorsten_Ploss@magicvillage.de[SMTP:Thorsten_Ploss@magicvillage.de]
>Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 1996 10:07 AM
>To: palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
>Cc: jag-lovers@sn.no
>Subject: Re: Re: Re: Electric Windows / interior lights
>
>palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu,Internet schreibt:
>>Thorsten:
>>> Well, on my SIII Daimler Double Six (12/93) the interior ligths
>>> turn off if I close the doors. I+d preferr to get some more time
>>> (maybe 60 sec.) until they turn off. It would be great, if they
>>> would turn off slowly...
>
>>Hmmm. My '83 XJ-S already has such a delay. I'm VERY surprised your
>>car does not. Is this Ford's influence?
>
>Well, my JAGdeaker told my only the early SIII modells had this feature...
>
>Thorsten
>
>
>
------------------------------
From: cobac@ix.netcom.com
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 11:36:20 -0800
Subject: XJ40 headlamp kits- available
Hi all,
I am very sorry for this little advertisment, and would never think of
doing it, however, I have cancelled the order for the square lamps I was
going to receive. Something came up, so I told the seller in fairness I
would tell others out there about them.
I believe he has only one set of lamps for the XJ40. They will convert
the four lamp system to two "European" style square lamps. They are the
single European lamp setup (I believe for left hand drive cars) and include
the assembly and light bulbs. He is requesting $550 +S/H for the pair. His
name is Andrew Weinberg E-Mail is: Weinberg_Andrew@AMAT.com
They are also listed on the Jaguar/Dailmer used parts exchange.
Again, sorry for this, I hope someone out there who needs replacements or
to convert their lamps will contact him and possibly make up for my
cancelling of the order.
Regards,
cobac@ix.netcom.com
------------------------------
From: "Gregory W. Price" <gprice@mack.rt66.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 13:21:07 -0700
Subject: The land of Oz (No Jag content)
Why do people refer to Australia as Oz? And Australian currency as
Ozbucks?
Greg.
------------------------------
From: "Francis E. Halaburt" <geneh@frontier.net>
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 13:47:49 -0700
Subject: Re: Volunteers Needed
Kirbert wrote:
> I have included some descriptions of how to rework the burl wood.
> However, I really am no expert on wood refinishing, and all these
> discussions about tung oil vs. polyuretane vs. marine spar varnish
> just confuse me. What's worse, it appears that everyone else is
> confused as well, as there appear to be opinions in all directions.
> If I merely include all the various procedures and recommendations
> in the book, it will grow quite a bit indeed, and most of the stuff
> will be conflicting.
>
> It'd be great if someone who really knows wood refinishing were to
> write a treatise on the subject of Jaguar interior woodwork. This
> would have the advantage of covering all Jaguars (and other cars as
> well), not just the XJ-S, and I could merely refer to it in my book
> and forget about trying to cover this topic myself.
>
> Of course, maybe such a writeup already exists. If so, someone
> please tell me about it so I can add THAT info. Please remember that
> my book is intended for Web-surfers and computer illiterates alike, a
> phone number or s-mail address for sources is needed, not just a WWW
> page.
>
> -- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
> | some rules must be broken.
> | - Palm's Postulate
Kirbert,
An excellent article on wood finishing for Jaguars appeared in the
October 1996 issue of "Jaguar Enthusiast" Magazine. Written by John
Sundberg dba "A&B Leather & Wood Renovation."
Phone: 011-44-137-656-1586
Address: A&B Leather & Wood Renovation
1 Dampler Road
Coggeshall,
Colchester CO6 1QZ
UK
The usual disclaimers. Perhaps he has, or would, write more on the
subject?
Regards,
Gene
------------------------------
From: Steve Draper <s_draper@wcsr.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 16:26:11 -0500
Subject: FW: Re: Re: Electric Windows / interior lights -Reply
I note also that both my 88xj-s and 89xj40 have the delay. I can't
imagine that they took that feature away. Surely it's the electrical
system doing its thing.
- --Steve
'88 xj-s
'89 xj40vdp
e-mail at:
s_draper@wcsr.com
------------------------------
From: Chad Bolles <aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 17:11:54 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ6 Engine performance
Jim: I will soon sit down and make you and anyone else who is
interested,a source list for parts, a spec list for the head work,vave
angles and such.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044
------------------------------
From: Chad Bolles <aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 17:25:21 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: V12 exhaust and Catalyst questions
Jim: Normally I would not disagree with most anybody,but This time I
have to.
ANY time you do a valve job on ANY engine,in which you do not replace the
valve seats or valves,you will have the valve sink into the head,that is
why after a valve job you have to set all the valve clearances. In doing
a multi angle valve job, you would sink the valve no further then you
would if you did not do the multi angle.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044
------------------------------
From: Chad Bolles <aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 17:31:28 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: jag book
Steven: You want " Jaguars That Run", Mike wrote it,I do not have his
phone # right now as a friend has the book.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044On
Tue, 3 Dec 1996 LEAMYS@aol.com wrote:
> looking for a book called "jag conversions" by mike knells or knellis.
> any one have any feedback on this publication?
>
> Steven M Leamy
>
------------------------------
From: Chad Bolles <aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 17:38:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S manual transmissions
Mike: In a rush right now, but
1 Yes, but no. All Jaguar V-12 use the same bolt pattern, but not the
same dowel location.
2 No XJ-S V-12 ever was offered with a 5sp
3 Getrag cost toooo much,but if you really want one, I have one available
around $6,000. Still interested???
4 ALL the firewalls in ALL the XJ-S cars are the same 6 and 12's
5 I have a pedal box for manual trans XJ-S with ABS brakes.
6 I make pedal boxes for the other cars.
I have an 83 car with a 5sp in it.
More later,gotta go
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044
------------------------------
From: Kevin.Campbell@vwr-inc.com
Date: Tuesday, 3 December 1996 3:27pm PT
Subject: FW: Re: Re: Electric Windows / i
For what it's worth my 93 XJ40 has the delay. The lights stay on for
about 2 minutes or until the car starts (no it doesn't take 2 minutes
to start the car..). Lights also come on when you use the remote to
unlock the doors, on exiting the lights go out when you hit the
remote lock button.
Kevin
------------------------------
From: John Goodman <101547.1141@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 03 Dec 96 18:27:59 EST
Subject: Re: XJ-S: Headlights
You wrote:
>>I am preparing to add some tips on headlights to the XJ-S help book.
I need the answers to the following questions:
1) When did the US-spec XJ-S switch from four round headlights to
the two big custom (Euro style) lamps?
2) My car came with fog lights (yellow lenses). Did other XJ-S's
originally come with driving lights (white lenses)? If so, what
determined which cars got fog lights and which cars got driving
lights? And what type of switch controlled the driving lights?
3) Did the original fog/driving lights all use H3 halogen bulbs?
4) What kind of bulbs do the Euro style headlight assemblies use?
How many watts are they?<<
Just a note,
Some of you U.S. owners wishing to convert your headlamps to the "Euro"
style ones may not be aware that the UK cars also had washer /wiper
systems fitted from around '87. Miniature wipers that operated when the
headlamps were on and the screen washers used. The wiring for these may
be on the U.S. cars.
Jaguar enthusiasts here actually change to the four headlamp system
because of improved lighting available. All lights have dual filament
bulbs, so 4 X 55w on main beam, however only the outer ones are ever
wired up for dipped beam (not sure if this is a legal reason).
However, I would prefer the outer lamps to be the permanent dipped beam
units As in the BMW's, i.e. The H1 single filament bulbs, because the
reflector shape is different being solely designed for dipped use only
it gives a better light pattern. This arrangement needs mods to the
headlamp relays so they stay on when the inner main beam units are
activated. Probably why Jaguar did not include these in the official UK
kit is because of the necessary wiring mods needed.
There could be some sort of exchange going on here ! We want your four
headlight system (lamps are no good being L/H drive) and you could have
our "euro" bits wiper motors, clips chrome trim the lot ??
On UK cars the fog/ driving lights are operated on the rotary dash light
switch. Position 1= side/ park 2= headlights 3= head & fog/driving
lights 4= side/park & only fog/ driving lights and there is a push
facility that works when in position 2-4 for the rear fog warning lights
fitted in the rear bumpers.
John Goodman
'89 XJR-S 6.0
------------------------------
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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 4 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 563
Re: XJS Low Idle
XJ-S Hood Bulges
The land of Oz (No Jag content)
Re: XJ40 Hydraulics
Re: 6-12 conversion
Re: XJ40 Hydraulics
RE: XJ-S Hood Bulges
RE: The land of Oz (No Jag content)
Re: XJ6 Engine Performance
Bump, roll and compliance steer (minimal Jag content)
Re: XJ6 power-steer probs
Vibration/Transmission
Re: Setting timing on XJ40
Re: The land of Oz (No Jag content)
'86 XJ-6 SIII - Valve job question
Re: XJS Low Idle
Re: The land of Oz (No Jag content)
re: Volunteers again
re: Jag Book
XJ-S Help Book Update
Re: Setting timing on XJ40
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Phil Patton" <ppatton@ibm.net>
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 96 18:29:07 -0500
Subject: Re: XJS Low Idle
On Tue, 03 Dec 1996 09:44:24 -0800, Joe Bunik wrote:
>I have a late '87 XJS... When I turn on the
blower for either heat or
>air conditioning my idle drops from 700 rpm to
around 300 rpm... I have
>gone through Kirby's XJS book but not found
anything quite resembling
>this problem..
>
>Is there a relay or such which boosts the idle
when a load is placed on
>the electrical system or does this indicate a
problem with the blower
>motor or resistor pack? The blower motors seem
to make as much pressure
>as before but the idle drop is a problem in stop
and go traffic.
>
>Kind regards for any assistance,
>
>Joe Bunik
>jbunik@bayarea.net
>
>'87 XJS
>
Sounds to me as though you may have a problem in
the AC/heat control circuit causing the AC
compressor clutch to engage regardless of the
temp. setting. Putting the additional electrical
drain of the blower motors on the system shouldn't
have much, if any, effect on idle speed. It has no
effect on my '86 XJ-S.
Regards, Phil
------------------------------
From: John Napoli <jgn@li.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 19:40:04 -0500 (EST)
Subject: XJ-S Hood Bulges
I've noticed that some late model XJ-S's have a hood with a bulge running
down the center. Is this to allow clearance for the different air intake
plumbing described in a recent posting?
John
------------------------------
From: "John Littler" <auibmdak@ibmmail.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 19:49:33 EST
Subject: The land of Oz (No Jag content)
Greg asked
"Why do people refer to Australia as Oz? And Australian currency as
Ozbucks?"
Australians are very lazy speakers, any word (particularly names) that
can be shortened is, those that can't get half the syllables dropped
when spoken. hence the infamous "G'day mate"- short for Good day, mate.
pronounced as one word.
Australiansis way too long a word for your average Aaussie, so it gets
contracted to Aussie. Aussie is pronounced OZ-ee, in a monotoneusually,
and with little break between oz and ee (sounds as one syllable). It's
not OSS-eee as a number of foreigners say it (although that's way more
logical). I'd guess the z sound comes from the way Australians tend
not to enunciate very clearly - one comedian suggested we never open our
mouths when speaking to avoid eating flies.....
Aussies (oz-ee-s)then leads to the country name being contracted to Oz,
because of course Australia is too much trouble (4 syllables? sod that!!)
Oz Bucks then becomes self explanatory - bucks = dollars - originally
American slang I believe, therefore ozbucks = Australian dollars.
John
Level 1, 29-57 Christie St.
St Leonards NSW 2065
Ph: +61-2-9937-8063 Fax: +61-2-9937-8100
Mobile +61-419-617-619 Internet: jlittler@vnet.ibm.com
------------------------------
From: KupyKool@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 19:52:15 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ40 Hydraulics
Michael-
In a message dated 96-12-03 01:43:09 EST, you write:
> The ride is pretty stiff with the original springs, personally I prefer it
> that way. I'll check on the price for the kit.
There seems to be some ambivalence among the members about the stiffness
question. To those of you who prefer it that way, what is the benefit of the
stiffer ride? To achieve this, would you use the original springs, and not
the ones in the kit?
Mike Kupritz
Baltimore, Maryland
------------------------------
From: Jan Wikstroem <Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au>
Date: 4 Dec 96 9:33:38 EDT
Subject: Re: 6-12 conversion
Baard <snip>: To accommodate the V12 unit, Jaguar made a number of changes to
the XJ,
- -----------------------------
Interestingly, the brief history of the marque on the "official" Jag site
claims that the XJ was originally designed for the V12. Doesn't sound
altogether credible, although there is one point that has always mystified me
about the XJ6 - why split the exhaust, unless it's to fill the two rear muffler
and pipe spaces...
I agree with what you say about the stronger front springs, although I'm under
the impression that the brakes are the same on 6 and 12. There could possibly
be some issues around the steering column, handbrake and oil cooler plumbing,
and of course you need the complete exhaust system, the V12 radiator, the rear
engine/gearbox mount (as mentioned before) and the complete T-bar/linkage
assembly for the GM400. Then there's the V12 ignition amplifier, injection
amplifier and ECU, and you're faced with the choice of renewing the entire
wiring loom or hand-wiring the engine/injection system and leaving the old loom
cluttering up the place...
But hey, it's worth it. The V12 of all vintages is one of the all-time great
engines and utterly transforms the car; it's not just more of the same, it's a
whole new soul.
- -Jan
------------------------------
From: Michael Neal <mneal@wco.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 16:48:59 -0800
Subject: Re: XJ40 Hydraulics
The original springs give the harder ride if you set them up properly. To
get proper resell value you should go with the kit though.
At 07:52 PM 12/3/96 -0500, KupyKool@aol.com wrote:
>Michael-
>
>In a message dated 96-12-03 01:43:09 EST, you write:
>
>> The ride is pretty stiff with the original springs, personally I prefer it
>> that way. I'll check on the price for the kit.
>
>There seems to be some ambivalence among the members about the stiffness
>question. To those of you who prefer it that way, what is the benefit of the
>stiffer ride? To achieve this, would you use the original springs, and not
>the ones in the kit?
>
>Mike Kupritz
>Baltimore, Maryland
>
>
------------------------------
From: John Setters <john_setters@eagle.co.nz>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 13:55:09 +1300
Subject: RE: XJ-S Hood Bulges
The increased bulge is to accomodate the AJ6 3.6 litre 6 cylinder motor.
******************************************************
John Setters
Desktop Mapping Consultant
Eagle Technology Group Ltd
110 Symonds Street
Auckland
New Zealand
Ph +64 +09 300 3400 Fax +64 +09 300 3420
Email john_setters@eagle.co.nz
http://www.eagle.co.nz
******************************************************
>----------
>From: John Napoli[SMTP:jgn@li.net]
>Sent: Wednesday, 4 December 1996 12:40
>To: Jag List
>Subject: XJ-S Hood Bulges
>
>I've noticed that some late model XJ-S's have a hood with a bulge
>running
>down the center. Is this to allow clearance for the different air
>intake
>plumbing described in a recent posting?
>
>John
>
>
>
------------------------------
From: John Setters <john_setters@eagle.co.nz>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 14:02:30 +1300
Subject: RE: The land of Oz (No Jag content)
Ergun from ov'r the ditch.
(How are you going from across the Tasman - ie N.Z.)
Kiwis have no trouble with the Staine language !!
******************************************************
John Setters
Desktop Mapping Consultant
Eagle Technology Group Ltd
110 Symonds Street
Auckland
New Zealand
Ph +64 +09 300 3400 Fax +64 +09 300 3420
Email john_setters@eagle.co.nz
http://www.eagle.co.nz
******************************************************
>----------
>From: John Littler[SMTP:auibmdak@ibmmail.com]
>Sent: Wednesday, 4 December 1996 12:49
>To: jag-lovers@sn.no
>Subject: The land of Oz (No Jag content)
>
>Australians are very lazy speakers, ......... "G'day mate
>
>Level 1, 29-57 Christie St.
>St Leonards NSW 2065
>Ph: +61-2-9937-8063 Fax: +61-2-9937-8100
>Mobile +61-419-617-619 Internet: jlittler@vnet.ibm.com
>
------------------------------
From: Kroppe <kroppe@mich.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 20:08:45 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ6 Engine Performance
pcsolutions wrote:
>Sources for pistons... what is the max safe size to bore the block.
>Ring choices. Gasket selection.
I got all my engine parts from Special Interest Car Parts, who
advertise on Nick's Jag-Lovers web page.
I am 50% done with a complete engine rebuild, top and bottom end,
all seals, gaskets, wearing parts. I've had the block bored
0.020" over and decked 0.010". I have all new valve guides
and seats. I can help you with questions relating to building
a stock engine, but I have chosen not to modify mine. I'm
pretty much a purist, but have been known to make a minor
modification here and there.
B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6
------------------------------
From: Kroppe <kroppe@mich.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 20:33:30 -0500
Subject: Bump, roll and compliance steer (minimal Jag content)
To Kirby and others who may be interested:
I got back to work and picked up my buddy's copy of _Race Car Vehicle
Dynamics_, by William F. Milliken and Douglas L. Milliken, (c) 1995,
ISBN 1-56091-526-9.
I think this fits the bill for a "more technical treatise" on the
subject. Apologies for the bandwidth.
"Section 19.4 - Steering Systems"
"19.4 - Ride and Roll Steer"
"In general, steer that results from wheel ride (bump) motion and body
roll (and pitch) motion is undesirable. With most types of steering and
suspension systems some steer with ride travel is inevitable. The
reason to run zero bump steer is very simple: If the wheel steers when
it runs over a bump or when the ar rolls in a turn, the car will travel
on a path that the driver did not select."
"Ride and roll steer are a function of the suspension geometry and the
steering system geometry. As discussed in Chapter 17, every suspension
has an instant axis of motion. If the tie rod is not aimed at the
instant axis then steer will occur with ride because the steering and
suspension are moving about different centers. If the tie rod is not
the correct length for its location then it will not continue to point
at the instant axis when the suspension is traveled in ride. Thus,
choice of tie rod location and length are both important."
"If the tie rod height and angle are adjustable it is usually possible
to tune most of the ride steer out of a suspension."
"Curved ride steer plots (toe angle vs. suspension ride travel) are to
be avoided because they result in a net change in toe with ride.
Another problem problem with curved ride steer plots is that the steer
effect changes from understeer to oversteer depending on the wheel ride
position. If the ride steer plot is curved, another possible solution
(with double-wishbone suspension) is to raise both ends of the tie rod,
to move it closer to the shorter, upper wishbone. Once this is done,
the tie rod angle will also have to be adjusted."
"A linear, but sloped ride steer plot may be used to add roll understeer
to a suspension; this may help driver feel and may also compensate
(somewhat) for undesirable compliance effects, as discussed in the next
paragraph."
"Compliance Effects"
"Ride steer and roll steer are similar for an unloaded suspension. With
the suspension loaded with lateral (and longitudinal) forces, compliance
effects will cause differences between ride steer and roll steer for the
following reasons:"
" - With both wheels moving together (over a bump in the road), the
suspension components are loaded to either compress or stretch the
steering rack.
- In roll, the wheels move in opposite directions (one up and the
other down) and the steering rack has a side force trying to move it to
either the left or right."
"The steering rack attachment and the suspension link attachments will
determine how much compliance steer there is in each case. Another
place where compliance can occur is in the cross link on cars with
recirculating ball steering boxes [Mark II owners listen here] -- often
these links are not straight for packaging reasons: A bent link in
compression or tension will change length much more easily than a
straight link."
"In many cases, the compliance steer due to lateral foce is much greater
than any geometric steer (ride, roll, Ackerman, etc.) that is measured
in the shop with or without the springs removed. Careful attention to
suspension and steering attachment points to the chassis can minimize
compliances. In most cases this will be all that can be done."
B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6
------------------------------
From: Jan Wikstroem <Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au>
Date: 4 Dec 96 10:11:55 EDT
Subject: Re: XJ6 power-steer probs
Dieter, the delivery from your PAS pump seems weak. A slack drive belt or low
fluid could give you these symptoms (typically along with some noise), but if
the belt and fluid are OK, I'd suspect a worn pump or faulty pressure
regulating valve.
- -Jan
------------------------------
From: "Michael C. Clement" <74131.2201@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 03 Dec 96 20:58:02 EST
Subject: Vibration/Transmission
Recently, I inquired about some vibration I was getting in my '90 XJ 40. It was
occuring in "D" stopped and most pronounced at 35 mph. Some of you suggested it
might be the drive shaft or U-joints. I had them checked out. According to a
"well-regarded" local Jag mechanic, both of these are fine. He suggested I take
it to his transmission specialist to check out the torque converter. I like to
drive it with the "sport" button on. He thought this may have put added wear on
the converter. She has ~83,000 miles on her. Is it likely that the torque
converted would have gone? If so, should I consider having the entire tranny
redone?
As usual, Thanks in advance,
Mike Clement
------------------------------
From: Randy Wilson <randy@taylor.infi.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 20:17:48 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Setting timing on XJ40
>
>
>This seems like a dumb question, but is it possible to change the timing
>(spark) on an XJ40. I see no reference to it in my (cheap) manual, yet the
>distributor does have some room for movement.
>
Spark timing is not easily adjustable. This car has a crank triggered digital
ignition system. Timing changes would require moving the pickup and/or
modifying the ECU.
The adjustment on the distributor is for setting up the rotor to cap
relationship.
>Where would the timing marks be,
There is a TDC pointer on the crank balancer. It is a very hard to find arrow
(triangle) that lines up with the pointer from the timing case.
>
>The only reason I ask is I have had the distibutor out
Setting up an AJ6 dizzy. Jaguar has a special jig for doing this..,. but it's
not really needed. The whole purpose is to make sure the rotor is pointing
to a wire lug no matter what the current computer chosen timing is. On normal
dizzies, the centrifugal advance moves the timing up... but it also advances
the rotor by the same amount, as they are attached. No such luxury with the
AJ6 crankfire system.
First mark the dizzy body directly in line with the #1 and #6 plug wires.
then remove the cap. Bring the engine up to TDC, noting which way the
rotor turns (I think it's counter-clock, but don't remember for sure). When
you reach TDC, the rotor should be pointing at one of the two marks. It
doesn't matter which one (why we marked both). Now turn the dizzy body
until the mark is just past the trailing edge of the rotor contact. Just
past it, not more than a degree or two. In this position, the rotor contact
will line up with the wire lug in cap in the timing range of about 5 to
40 degrees before TDC.; the operative timing range of the engine.
If the adjustment is off very far, the results will be subtle. the most
likely thing is the rotor and cap will tend to burn a little uneven...
biased against the direction of misadjustment. The cap and rotor will
"wear out" a little faster. If the misadjustment is extreme... and I'm
not usre it's possible on the AJ6, there will be a misfire at the extreme
end of the timing curve as the spark has to jump a pretty large gap
inside.
Next time, mark the position before you remove the distributor. This is one
of those rare cases where "close" is good enough. :>
>
>Mike Everatt
>1987 XJ40
>
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
------------------------------
From: Ned Blagojevic <nbx@ansto.gov.au>
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 13:16:34 +1100
Subject: Re: The land of Oz (No Jag content)
At 13:21 3/12/96 -0700, you wrote:
>Why do people refer to Australia as Oz? And Australian currency as
>Ozbucks?
>
>Greg.
We prefer Aussie or sometimes Godzone (God's own country) our currency is
also known as Pacific peso.
Since you ask here are a few more to add to your Aussie slang dictionary :-)
Bananaland - Queensland and hence Bananalanders or sometime Bananabenders.
Pommyland - England.
The Centre (Red Centre) - the middle of Australia where men are men and
sheep are nervous and the weather is drier then the Pommy's bath towel.
En-Zed - New Zealand. It has been said that En-Zeders have found two new
uses for sheep - wool and meat.
Great White Shark - Greg Norman (golfer) or was it Great White Flake.
Ities: (pron: Eye-tyes) Italians
Mexicans - Victorians (State of Victoria or anything south of the Harbour
City (Sydney) also known as Steak and Kidney.
I only mention these as they may be used by people in our list, and more
imoprtanatly, to satisfy world's insatiable thirst for knowledge of our
language.
Ned
'61 Mk2
------------------------------
From: "Peter Morris" <pmorris@tfb.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 18:26:34 8
Subject: '86 XJ-6 SIII - Valve job question
Hi all,
Got a question for those who know (or think they know!).
Back in September, the head gasket went, allowing water out of the
coolant system, and out the exhaust. Well, I was wanting to get the
stake-down kit installed, so it was an opportune time. Beside, the
clock just rolled over 100K miles, so it was time, I was told, for a
valve job, too.
Got it done. Expected better performance, got it. Seem, no, IS,
quicker off the mark, smoother, too. Just a few little problems...
1. Idles rough, at times. Sort of hiccups now and again, uneven
rhythm.
2. Some new vibratory sounds penetrating the cabin, suggesting
something isn't as well anchored as it was.
3. Mileage has dropped. I was getting 18.5 US MPG average on 87
Research Octane Number (RON). Now, I get 15.5 US MPG on 92 RON.
This I don't understand. Seems like,
rebuilt head+fixed head gasket=improved MPG.
Instead I get
rebuilt head+fixed head gasket=WORSE MPG.
I'd like to understand before I go back to my mechanic...
Suggestions, explanations???
Thanks!
Regards,
Peter Morris
------------------------------
From: Jan Wikstroem <Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au>
Date: 4 Dec 96 10:31:34
Subject: Re: XJS Low Idle
The normal drop should be from 750 rpm without air conditioning to 500 with; a
greater drop could indicate that your air conditioning compressor draws more
power than it should, and may need fairly urgent attention before it seizes.
It's also possible that your idle mixture is off.
- -Jan
------------------------------
From: Jan Wikstroem <Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au>
Date: 4 Dec 96 10:41:26
Subject: Re: The land of Oz (No Jag content)
We're a pretty lazy lot, and often stop when we've pronounced as much of the
word as necessary. "Aus(tralia)" is of course pronounced the same as Oz. A
similar corruption has produced "Strine" out of "Australian" (pronounced with
Australian vowel values). There's a good book about the Aussie (see, there's
another one) dialects by a chap calling himself Afferbeck Lauder. Now pronounce
that name quickly a few times and listen to what you're saying...
As for Ozbucks, I coined that a few months ago on this list. It seemed like a
good idea...
- -Jan
------------------------------
From: Michael Frank <mfrank@westnet.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 22:06:37 -0500 (EST)
Subject: re: Volunteers again
Kirbert:
I have a terrific collection of Jaguar material. I would be willing to
prepare a short blurb on each book, if someone can host the web site.
Another alternative is to place the book reviews on Amazon.Com. They are an
internet bookseller, with a truely monumental list of titles...including
almost everything currently in print about Jaguar. Their website includes
the ability to post public book reviews, which are permanently attached to
book listing. This way, none of us need bother with site maintenance, and
everyone can contribute directly.
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type
------------------------------
From: Michael Frank <mfrank@westnet.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 22:07:21 -0500 (EST)
Subject: re: Jag Book
If you are absolutely committed to a coversion, you can find the
information you are seeking at:
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/
Their address is:
JTR (Jaguars That Run),PO Box 66, Livermore CA 94551
510-462-3619
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
------------------------------
From: "Kirbert" <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 22:41:09 -0005
Subject: XJ-S Help Book Update
I always figured that, sooner or later, I'd have the Jaguar XJ-S
pretty well covered, and additions to my help book would be less
frequent. You'd think I'd learn. As far as I can tell, it grows
exponentially. Either that, or it grows in proportion to the size of
the jag-lovers subscription list.
I've been adding stuff to this book regularly, and when I decided to
catch up it took three solid days of editing. Since the last update,
it has grown to over 200 pages. The size of the ZIP file has grown
by about 60KB.
Anyhow, it has just been posted on my WWW site, so y'all can get a
copy if you want. It has been sent to Nick, so it should appear on
his site soon. And Derek Hibbs has been informed, so his Windows
Help version should appear on his site when he gets around to it.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm's Postulate
------------------------------
From: Victor Naumann <jagdoc@erols.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 22:38:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Setting timing on XJ40
Mike Everatt wrote:
>
> This seems like a dumb question, but is it possible to change the timing (spark) on an XJ40.
>
> Where would the timing marks be, and under what conditions should it be checked (warm engine, idle speed ???, in gear or not?, etc)
> Mike Everatt
> 1987 XJ40
Timing mark on the crank pulley,very small arrow , line up the leading
edge of marked tooth with the pointer on engine front cover. Remove
Dist. cap, rotor should point about 5:30 downward and about 1/16 in to
the left of the gap in the dist. housing. If the rotor points to 11:30
rotate engine until mark again lines up with pointer.Hot or cold -no
difference.
Jag makes a tool but you can do without. You would set this and then
check cam timing by removing cam cover and installing cam setting tool
on front of each cam inturn.
Hope this helps,
Vic
------------------------------
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #563
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Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 08:26:16 +0100 (MET)
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From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
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X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest
jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 4 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 564
Re: XJ40 Hydraulics
Re: Leak-down testing
Volt Meter -- How does it work? 83 XJ6
part 3 of "HOw I Found MY Jag"
Re: Transmission Removal on 76 XJ12C
RE: XJ-S Hood Bulges
Re: Re: Electric Windows / i
Re: jag book
E-Type digest?
Re: Setting timing on XJ40
Re: Vibration/Transmission
Setting timing on XJ-S with Marelli ignition
re: Speed Trap '88 xj-s
Re: Low Brake Pressure
Re: over. In my case, "5% leakage" is damn good, and I don't start worrying until th
Re: XJS Low Idle
Re: XJ40 Hydraulics
Re: XJ6-XJ12 conversion
Re: Volt Meter -- How does it work? 83 XJ6
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #563
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Victor Naumann <jagdoc@erols.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 22:45:18 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ40 Hydraulics
KupyKool@aol.com wrote:
>
> Michael Neal-
> By the way, if you think the Jaguar
> kit is best, what kind of discount can you get? The local dealer wants
> $570(US) plus installation, which seems high. Does the kit come with
> instructions that would be good enough for a barely literate mechanic, or
> should I let the dealer handle this one?
>
> Any advice would be appreciated!
>
> Mike Kupritz
> Baltimore, Maryland
The Jag kit has no instructions. Not to hard to figure out. Best to
grease all places where metal moves against plastic or other metal. Some
of the yellow bushings in the upper spring pan seem to wear and ovalise
if assembled dry. You will need a heavy spring compressor too. Kit has a
fitting to replace Hyd. line going to struts. You can remove or leave
lines as you wish. Remove ride level sender and cover connector end with
plastic and tie out of the way.
Regards, Vic
------------------------------
From: Kyle Chatman <kchatman@mail.coin.missouri.edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 21:44:24 -0600
Subject: Re: Leak-down testing
>From the FWIW department: If there is excessive leakage under pressure,
I've heard that listening at the tail pipe, oil filler cap, and air intake
can help locate the source: exhaust valve, rings, or intake valve. True?
------------------------------
From: Kyle Chatman <kchatman@mail.coin.missouri.edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 21:48:44 -0600
Subject: Volt Meter -- How does it work? 83 XJ6
I recently replaced the Veliga volt meter with one from Jag Heaven, so I =
tore the old one apart. I've got a question, "How does it work?" There =
is an inverted U shaped metal strip with one leg wrapped by the wire =
running from pole to pole. Current must make the U bend? Just curious =
about the mechanism and how sensitive this really is. Thanks.
------------------------------
From: brett ferguson <howard@calweb.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 20:14:56 -0800
Subject: part 3 of "HOw I Found MY Jag"
We walked out of the body shop where the XKE had been parked in the
August sun long enough to warm it nicely. Tom hit the starter button and
she purred to life, an exotic cat stretching after a cat nap, her engine
sounded strong and deep, with a resonance that could be felt as well as
heard, oh boy. I wish that she had been topless, but that was not the
case. Once I hopped inside, I was impressed by the lack of visibility
and the total cache of her. I could only imagine how she would look sans
top. Tom explained that he hadn't put a sufficiently high octane gas in
her for her to run her best. We had a straightaway of about a 1/4 mile
ahead of us with many businesses located on either side, so I wasn't
expecting a true demonstration of her capabilities. Nonetheless, the
acceleration was impressive and smooth through almost redline in 2nd
gear, by which time we were doing about 68. The effect was stimulating,
to say the least. A couple of quick, shallow turns revealed a good, if
not great, suspension and cornering ability. And the sound of the engine
had transformed from a purr to a growl. YES.
I again told Tom to tell the owner of my serious interest and to
determine the actual price at which he would sell this black beauty. A
day passed, and Tom called to say that the owner would take 28,000, 3000
to pay for the paint job it was about to receive. Well that seemed
reasonable given that Tom assured me the paint job would be of the
highest quality and would enhance the car's value more than the cost of
the paint job. Alright, let's do it. "Oh, by the way, I expect a
finder's fee of 1000$" said Tom. I swallowed and did some quick mental
math, that's about 4% of the price. Beats a 15% gratuity. Besides, Tom
had been helpful and instrumental in this whole thing. I almost forgot
the reason I ever came to this particular body shop was to have work
done on my truck, which was completed with a high degree of professional
attention to detail and customer satisfaction. OK, at this point I felt
powerless to say no. Tom reassured me that he wpuld speak with the owner
that day. I offered a good faith payment of 1000$ to secure the right to
be first to buy, but Tom said no. TO BE CONTINUED
------------------------------
From: Jan Wikstroem <Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au>
Date: 4 Dec 96 10:04:35
Subject: Re: Transmission Removal on 76 XJ12C
My slushbox man was able to take the GM400 out of my '77 XJ12C to overhaul it,
but I believe it takes some pretty special tools to get at the upper bell
housing bolts. You also need to be very careful not to damage the air
conditioning and heater gubbinses behind the engine when you tilt the gearbox
down.
As for taking the heads off, I've both had the engine out of my XJ12L and taken
the heads off in situ, and frankly, I found it less hassle to pull the engine
and do the heads on the bench. There's a problem with the heads on the V12; due
to a foolish piece of design, the space between the head bolts and their bores
in the heads tends to fill with mineral deposits and it takes some serious
pulling and levering to get the heads off. That's very, very much easier to do
with the engine out. OTOH, I've heard of a very thin tubular saw to clean the
crud out, but I've never seen it. When I put the engine back together, I put a
ring of high-temp silicon around each bolt, to form a seal on the interface
with the cooling water space, hopefully eliminating the problem...
Frankly, Jim, I'd strongly recommend pulling the engine and stripping it; if
you have trouble with the valves, this would seem to indicate that the general
state of wear may warrant an overhaul.
- -Jan
------------------------------
From: John Napoli <jgn@li.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 23:37:00 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: XJ-S Hood Bulges
On Wed, 4 Dec 1996, John Setters wrote:
> The increased bulge is to accomodate the AJ6 3.6 litre 6 cylinder motor.
But the cars I've seen are clearly marked V12. And anyway I didn't think
that any 6 cylinder XJ-S's made it to the states.
John
------------------------------
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 22:38:47 -0600
Subject: Re: Re: Electric Windows / i
On the subject of the door light switch that cuts off after, in the case of my XJ-S, 5 or 6 seconds. Is it possible for this switch to fail intermitently and not cut off the lights? That might explain the intermitent draining of my battery. Jim "Better an outlaw than not free." Nance O'Neil From: LumpyJag@aol.com Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 23:57:12 -0500 Subject: Re: jag book Jags That Run has a web page that you can find using LYCOS or whatever. Their books, covering several conversions, can be ordered via telephone using a credit card (the telephone numbers are just for book orders, not tech advice). I've used the search option and found John's Cars, who also do conversions. Chris Walker San Diego 1979 XJ6/350 From: Jim Berry <jimberry@visuallink.com> Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 00:10:12 -0400 Subject: E-Type digest? I periodically see references on this digest to a splinter list dealing with XKE's but search as I might, I can't seem to locate it. Does it exist? If so, what address? Thanks, jim berry From: Michael Neal <mneal@wco.com> Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 21:03:06 -0800 Subject: Re: Setting timing on XJ40 Actually, Jaguar had a problem with detonation on the earlier XJ40s. They offered a kit that remounted the crank pickup to retard timing. You could probably make a bracket that would allow adjustability but the eprom map still controls the range of timing control. A re mapped eprom is really the answer here. At 08:17 PM 12/3/96 -0500, Randy Wilson wrote:
>>
>>
>>This seems like a dumb question, but is it possible to change the timing
>>(spark) on an XJ40. I see no reference to it in my (cheap) manual, yet the
>>distributor does have some room for movement.
>>
>
>Spark timing is not easily adjustable. This car has a crank triggered digital
>ignition system. Timing changes would require moving the pickup and/or
>modifying the ECU.
>
>The adjustment on the distributor is for setting up the rotor to cap
>relationship.
>
>
>
>
>>Where would the timing marks be,
>
>There is a TDC pointer on the crank balancer. It is a very hard to find arrow
>(triangle) that lines up with the pointer from the timing case.
>
>
>>
>>The only reason I ask is I have had the distibutor out
>
>
>Setting up an AJ6 dizzy. Jaguar has a special jig for doing this..,. but it's
>not really needed. The whole purpose is to make sure the rotor is pointing
>to a wire lug no matter what the current computer chosen timing is. On normal
>dizzies, the centrifugal advance moves the timing up... but it also advances
>the rotor by the same amount, as they are attached. No such luxury with the
>AJ6 crankfire system.
>
>First mark the dizzy body directly in line with the #1 and #6 plug wires.
>then remove the cap. Bring the engine up to TDC, noting which way the
>rotor turns (I think it's counter-clock, but don't remember for sure). When
>you reach TDC, the rotor should be pointing at one of the two marks. It
>doesn't matter which one (why we marked both). Now turn the dizzy body
>until the mark is just past the trailing edge of the rotor contact. Just
>past it, not more than a degree or two. In this position, the rotor contact
>will line up with the wire lug in cap in the timing range of about 5 to
>40 degrees before TDC.; the operative timing range of the engine.
>
>If the adjustment is off very far, the results will be subtle. the most
>likely thing is the rotor and cap will tend to burn a little uneven...
>biased against the direction of misadjustment. The cap and rotor will
>"wear out" a little faster. If the misadjustment is extreme... and I'm
>not usre it's possible on the AJ6, there will be a misfire at the extreme
>end of the timing curve as the spark has to jump a pretty large gap
>inside.
>
>Next time, mark the position before you remove the distributor. This is one
>of those rare cases where "close" is good enough. :>
>
>
>
>
>>
>>Mike Everatt
>>1987 XJ40
>>
>
>
> Randy K. Wilson
> randy@taylor.infi.net
>
>
>
------------------------------
From: Randy Wilson <randy@taylor.infi.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 00:24:26 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Vibration/Transmission
>
>
>Recently, I inquired about some vibration I was getting in my '90 XJ 40. It was
>occuring in "D" stopped and most pronounced at 35 mph. Some of you suggested it
>might be the drive shaft or U-joints. I had them checked out. According to a
>"well-regarded" local Jag mechanic, both of these are fine. He suggested I take
>it to his transmission specialist to check out the torque converter. I like to
>drive it with the "sport" button on. He thought this may have put added wear on
>the converter. She has ~83,000 miles on her. Is it likely that the torque
>converted would have gone? If so, should I consider having the entire tranny
>redone?
I do not see a way for using the sport setting to cause any premature
torque convertor damage. If it is the convertor, the vibration would be
related to engine speed or load, and not road speed. Vibrations caused
by sources farther down the driveline would be releated to road speed and
possibly engine load. XJ40's are not known for driveshaft problems...
nothing like the SII cars... but I would still give a good look at the
center support bearing.
>
>Mike Clement
>
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
------------------------------
From: "Kirbert" <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 01:06:42 -0005
Subject: Setting timing on XJ-S with Marelli ignition
Mike Everatt:
> >This seems like a dumb question, but is it possible to change the timing
> >(spark) on an XJ40.
>
Randy K. Wilson:
> Spark timing is not easily adjustable. This car has a crank
> triggered digital ignition system. Timing changes would require
> moving the pickup and/or modifying the ECU.
I can't bring myself to care about the XJ40. However, it occurs to
me that the same discussion applies to the V-12 with the Marelli
ignition system, and as such probably could use some coverage in my
XJ-S book. So: Does everything Randy says apply to the Marelli
system too? Or do we need a whole different description there?
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm's Postulate
------------------------------
From: Michael Bain <mbain@wolfenet.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 22:15:21 -0800
Subject: re: Speed Trap '88 xj-s
>>>>> "s" == s draper <s_draper@wcsr.com> writes:
s> Can someone give a suggestion on working on this problem? It
s> doesn't seem like the cable; I think it must be the gauge. On days
The speedometer is electric, so there is no cable. Mine stuck also.
Took it apart and shaved some plastic that was jamming it.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Michael Bain "When in Doubt, Gas It!!!" mbain@wolfenet.com
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Worst Month of the Year:
February. February has only 28 days in it, which means that if
you rent an apartment, you are paying for three full days you
don't get. Try to avoid Februarys whenever possible.
-- Steve Rubenstein
----------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
From: Randy Wilson <randy@taylor.infi.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 00:53:46 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Low Brake Pressure
>My 89 XJ40 got low brake pressure since I bought it last year. I replaced
>the accumulator and the brakes seem to work just fine. However, the
>warning still remains until the car is driven about 1/4 mile after a long
>park (longer than 2 hours). I thought that I need to bleed the brakes
>so I tried with some help from my friend. But I believe that we didn't
>do it right... Bleeding the brakes on my Mazda RX7 84 was easy... but on
>the Jaguar it's different. The brake padal is hard; it takes 3-4 seconds
>to go down to the floor... Is this normal?
The brake pedal will sink fairly slowly when bleeding brakes, yes. This is
due to the fluid having to wander through the maze of valves and such that
make up the ABS control block. Bleeding the brakes is a normal procedure
like most any other car. It just requires a bit of patience. Do not jam on
the pedal to force the fluid out quickly. Just let it go at it's normal
flow.
However. The "Low BRake Pressure" warning has nothing to do with the brake
bydraulics. That light is for the power hydraulic system, which controls
the brake booster.
>From your description, I would guess that you have a sticking charge
solenoid. It is not closing properly. It is an expensive part, so I
would not just replace until testing has condemned it.
Near the ignition coil, you will see a green connector with four wires.
This is the wiring to the accumulator/switch block of the power hydraulics.
There are two black and two yellow wires. We are interested in one of the
yellow ones. I think it is the yellow and black, but I'm home, and all
the wiring diagrams are at work.
When the low pressure warning is on, both yellow wires will be in a low
state, almost zero voltages. As soon as the warning goes out, the
voltage of one wire will go high, 12 + volts. We want the other *yellow*
wire. It should also go to a high voltage state within seconds of the
first one. I would guess that this is not happening. It may take a long
time to go high, or may not at all. If it does eventually go high, hit
the brakes twice quickly, while observing the voltage. It should drop low,
and recover to high almost immediately. If it fails these tests, taking
long time periods to recover, then the most likely cause is a charge
valve that is not closing properly. Replacing this valve requires full
depressurization of the hydraulic system.
Standard disclaimer:
Due to the nature and potential dangers of working with the power hydraulic
system, I do not recommend the home mechanic attempting repairs, and only
grudgingly give details on it's service. Beware. you are dealing with
a very high pressure system that remains active even after the engine
is shut off.
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
------------------------------
From: Randy Wilson <randy@taylor.infi.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 00:56:42 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: over. In my case, "5% leakage" is damn good, and I don't start worrying until th
>
>
>Wow ! your numbers are way different from what I read in Smokey Yunick's book
>( he claims to have invented leakdown testing. ) I just had a 4.2 rebuilt and
>got 5-8 % leak at 1,000 mi My 'real life' readings are similar to yours.
>What are the top guys doing that we aren't (maybe lying ? ) Before rebuilding
>I had 10-40 % leak
>Doug
As I said, the actual numbers you get vary dramticly from gauge to gauge.
The gauge I use on the race engines has an extremely small orfice to make
it sensitive to small leak rates. Production gauges may well give me
numbers of 1 or 2. or 10. It's all a function of gauge design.
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
------------------------------
From: Randy Wilson <randy@taylor.infi.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 01:02:22 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJS Low Idle
>
>
>I have a late '87 XJS... When I turn on the blower for either heat or
>air conditioning my idle drops from 700 rpm to around 300 rpm... I have
>gone through Kirby's XJS book but not found anything quite resembling
>this problem..
The engine speed is most likely being pulled down by the load of the
A/C compressor. There are two possible causes... either the engine is
making so little power at idle that it can not really deal with the
added load. Or, the A/C is requiring too much power to drive. The later
is more likely. It could be caused by a failing compressor, a blockage
in the system, or an excessively overcharged system.
You should be able to prove this is the source of the load by disabling
the compressor. You will find a two wire electrical plug on the compressor
right behind the pulley. It's at about 2 o'clock when viewed from the
front. Unplug it and retest.
>
>Is there a relay or such which boosts the idle when a load is placed on
No.
>Joe Bunik
>jbunik@bayarea.net
>
>'87 XJS
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
------------------------------
From: Randy Wilson <randy@taylor.infi.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 01:05:59 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ40 Hydraulics
>
>
>The original springs give the harder ride if you set them up properly. To
>get proper resell value you should go with the kit though.
>
I do not understand this one. The original springs are shorter, and I
believe weaker (I'll check tomorrow) than the replacements. With the old
springs, you have to shim the hell out of things to get the ride height
anywhere near correct. But this shimming will not effect the spring rate,
or it's installed motion ration.. all of which equals wheel rate. How can
the ride get stiffer?
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
------------------------------
From: "Gregory W. Price" <gprice@mack.rt66.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 00:22:00 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ6-XJ12 conversion
> From: Jan Wikstroem <Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au>
> I agree with what you say about the stronger front springs, although I'm under
> the impression that the brakes are the same on 6 and 12. There could possibly
> be some issues around the steering column, handbrake and oil cooler plumbing,
> and of course you need the complete exhaust system, the V12 radiator, the rear
> engine/gearbox mount (as mentioned before) and the complete T-bar/linkage
> assembly for the GM400. Then there's the V12 ignition amplifier, injection
> amplifier and ECU, and you're faced with the choice of renewing the entire
> wiring loom or hand-wiring the engine/injection system and leaving the old loom
> cluttering up the place...
I guess my idea is to find an XJS that is running but rusting apart with a
trashed interior, so that I can cannibalize all of the required
parts then trade whatever's left for some other stuff. Will the front springs from
an XJS work on my SIII XJ6/12?
Greg
------------------------------
From: Jeffrey Gram <101454.2570@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 04 Dec 96 02:21:28 EST
Subject: Re: Volt Meter -- How does it work? 83 XJ6
A voltmeter is in reality a current meter. The principle works on measuring the
(very small)
current in the circuit which has a large value resistor before the delicate
mechanical measuring device.
There are several ways of constructing the mechanical part, the classic being a
horseshoe permanent magnet where the poles gap over a coil suspended between the
poles where the coil pivot of the suspended coil is tensioned by a small
watchmakers coiled spring. The current in the suspended coil is a function of
the voltage present (Ohms law - (without the Einstein relativity correction -
jjust kidding). The reason for momevent is that a conductor creates a magnetic
field around itself in proportion to the current passed. This magnetic field
reacts with the existing magnetic filed and exerts a force on the conductor.
The force turns the coil against the coiled pivot spring. Sensitivity is a
function of how many turns of coil is in the magnetic field, the strength of the
magnetic field. Mechanical voltmeters can be biult sensitive enough to measure
millivolts directly (without electronic boost), but for a car voltmeter such
boost is not necessary.
Regards Jeffrey Gram
------------------------------
From: "Gregory W. Price" <gprice@mack.rt66.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 00:25:00 -0700
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #563
As they say about Texas: "Wow, it's like a whole 'nother country!" ;-)
Greg
> From: "John Littler" <auibmdak@ibmmail.com>
> Date: Tue, 03 Dec 1996 19:49:33 EST
> Subject: The land of Oz (No Jag content)
>
> Australians are very lazy speakers, any word (particularly names) that
> can be shortened is, those that can't get half the syllables dropped
> when spoken. hence the infamous "G'day mate"- short for Good day, mate.
> pronounced as one word.
>
> Australiansis way too long a word for your average Aaussie, so it gets
> contracted to Aussie. Aussie is pronounced OZ-ee, in a monotoneusually,
> and with little break between oz and ee (sounds as one syllable). It's
> not OSS-eee as a number of foreigners say it (although that's way more
> logical). I'd guess the z sound comes from the way Australians tend
> not to enunciate very clearly - one comedian suggested we never open our
> mouths when speaking to avoid eating flies.....
>
> Aussies (oz-ee-s)then leads to the country name being contracted to Oz,
> because of course Australia is too much trouble (4 syllables? sod that!!)
>
> Oz Bucks then becomes self explanatory - bucks = dollars - originally
> American slang I believe, therefore ozbucks = Australian dollars.
> John
------------------------------
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #564
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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 4 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 565
The Land of Oz. (Definitely No Jaguar Content, and Politically INcorrect to boot.)
Need 64-XKE wiring schematic - BAD
Re: FW: Re: Re: Electric Windows / interior lights -Reply
Re: XJ-S Hood Bulges
Re: Speed Trap '88 xj-s
Re: XJ6-XJ12 conversion
RE: XJS Low Idle
Re: jag book
Re: XJ-S Hood Bulges
Re: jag book
Re[2]: XJ-S Hood Bulges
Ozee language (Jag-content=zero)
RE: XJ-S Hood Bulges
Re: XJS Low Idle
Re: XJ-S Hood Bulges
XJ40 - Check engine?
Re: Re[2]: XJ-S Hood Bulges
Re: XJS Low Idle
Re: XJ40 Hydraulics
Re: XJS Low Idle
XJ6 - SIII: tapping noise from engine
re: Volt Meter -- How does it work? 83 XJ6
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Jim Ellis <jellis@metz.une.edu.au>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 18:36:41 +1100 (EST)
Subject: The Land of Oz. (Definitely No Jaguar Content, and Politically INcorrect to boot.)
John S,
as someone who was: born a ' Celtic Pommy Bastard', educated and
grew up in N.Z., and married an 'Aussi Sheila' (in London U.K. ); I always
understood that the Pakeha (Whitefella) language here was called 'Strine',
which is short for 'Ozstrylien'!!
- ------------------------------------
From: John Setters <john_setters@eagle.co.nz>
Ergun from ov'r the ditch.
Kiwis have no trouble with the Staine language !!
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
John L,
I agree with your assessment of the tendency for even quite well
educated adult Australians to indulge in 'baby talk'.
- -------------------------
from: "John Littler" <auibmdak@ibmmail.com>
Australians are very lazy speakers, any word (particularly names) that
can be shortened is, those that can't get half the syllables dropped
when spoken. hence the infamous "G'day mate"- short for Good day, mate.
pronounced as one word.
- --------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jim [like Harry Secombe, my origins can be traced back to W(h)ales], Ellis.
P.S. I have already donned my flame suit and am braced for any impending
'warm change'.
****************************************************
Jim Ellis
Internal Auditor
University of New England,
N.S.W. 2351.
AUSTRALIA.
*********
'phone: (067) 733497;
[national: +61 67 733497;]
fax: (067) 733314;
e-mail: jellis@metz.une.edu.au
------------------------------
From: Tony Clarke <tclarke@soest.hawaii.edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 1996 22:31:16 -1000 (HST)
Subject: Need 64-XKE wiring schematic - BAD
Since my last message appeared to get corrupted I am making another plea
for a fellow Ser 1 E-type (roadster) owner to offer up a color coded
wiring schematic that can hep me repackage the spagetti in my now
restored OTS body.
I have bought an incomplete ground up restoration project that is
approaching reassembly and visually looking great. Unfortunately the
wiring is in shambles and since I did not take it apart (I would have
labeled it) it is a mystery to me where it all goes. If anyone has a
wiring diagram for this car that they could mail or fax I will happy to
share a six-pack in the sunset with you on my boat next time you pass
through Hawaii (or with any luck a drive in the XKE sometime after March).
Thanks!
Tony Clarke
Dept. of Oceanography
1000 Pope Rd.
Honolulu, HI 96822
or fax
808-956-7112
64 XKE OTS
60 XK150 Drophead
60 Austin Healy 3000
57 TR3
------------------------------
From: Thorsten_Ploss@magicvillage.de (Thorsten Ploss)
Date: 04 Dec 1996 08:33:04 GMT
Subject: Re: FW: Re: Re: Electric Windows / interior lights -Reply
Steve Draper,s_draper@wcsr.com,Internet schreibt:
>I note also that both my 88xj-s and 89xj40 have the delay. I can't
>imagine that they took that feature away. Surely it's the electrical
>system doing its thing.
>--Steve
> '88 xj-s
> '89 xj40vdp
>e-mail at:
> s_draper@wcsr.com
Well this sounds interesting: my JAGdeale said, the early SIII (XJ6, XJ12,
Daimler) had this feature. The newer SIII not. Even if the XJS and XJ40 got
it.
Because I have got a guarentee for the next three weeks, it is very
interesting for me, if the dealer is rigth. If not he must fix it - gratis
:-))
So maybe some of you with a SIII (XJ6, XJ12, Daimler, Daimler Double Six) can
post me if your JAG got thie feature and the year...
Thanks Thorsten
gato verde (Daimler Double Six SIII 12/93)
------------------------------
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 10:09:41 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: XJ-S Hood Bulges
> On Wed, 4 Dec 1996, John Setters wrote:
>
> > The increased bulge is to accomodate the AJ6 3.6 litre 6 cylinder motor.
>
> But the cars I've seen are clearly marked V12. And anyway I didn't think
> that any 6 cylinder XJ-S's made it to the states.
Mmmh, I think I read that there quite a bunch of the latest XJ-S 6 cylinder
in the US
------------------------------
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 10:33:28 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: Speed Trap '88 xj-s
> Can someone give a suggestion on working on this problem? It doesn't
> seem like the cable; I think it must be the gauge. On days like today, part
> of the fun of driving is knowing how fast you're going, not that I'd
> exceed the speed limit, of course.
I guess my '88 XJ-S should be similar to yours. There is a speed sensor
in the final drive, which is cabled to a control unit on the right hand
side of the trunk. So it might be either a problem with a sticking gauge
or a problem in the control unit. You might be able to find out by
disconnecting the control unit, the gauge should then drop to 0 if I
remember well.
- - matthias
> --Steve
> '88 xj-s
> '89 xj40vdp
> e-mail at:
> s_draper@wcsr.com
>
>
>
------------------------------
From: Greg Meboe <meboe@scs.wsu.edu>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 02:00:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: XJ6-XJ12 conversion
On Wed, 4 Dec 1996, Gregory W. Price wrote:
>
> I guess my idea is to find an XJS that is running but rusting apart with
> a trashed interior, so that I can cannibalize all of the required
> parts then trade whatever's left for some other stuff. Will the front
> springs from an XJS work on my SIII XJ6/12?
This would be the easiest way to do the conversion. You'll need to still
buy or make some things, but not too much. Speedo (160mph), Tach (12
cyl), Driveline (SII XJ-12), Front springs (from Canadian XJ-12), power
wire from the battery to the rear of the car (since the XJ-S has the
battery in the boot). THat's all I can think of at the moment.
Greg
Greg Meboe meboe@atc.boeing.com
Currently on assignment in Central France...
Web site>> http://www.scs.wsu.edu/~meboe
Mechanical Engineer Boeing Payloads Division
'85 XJ-12 H.E. (daily) '67 Spit-6 '74 TR-6
------------------------------
From: Graham Watson <grahamw@microsoft.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 02:52:30 -0800
Subject: RE: XJS Low Idle
It might be the A/C compressor coming on. I *think* there is a
connection between the compressor relay and the engine ECU (Don't have
the diagrams to hand). If there is a fault here, it might cause your
symptoms, although I would have thought the ECU would compensate to some
extent anyway.
Graham
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Joe Bunik [SMTP:jbunik@bayarea.net]
>Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 1996 5:44 PM
>To: jag-lovers@sn.no
>Subject: XJS Low Idle
>
>I have a late '87 XJS... When I turn on the blower for either heat or
>air conditioning my idle drops from 700 rpm to around 300 rpm... I have
>gone through Kirby's XJS book but not found anything quite resembling
>this problem..
>
>Is there a relay or such which boosts the idle when a load is placed on
>the electrical system or does this indicate a problem with the blower
>motor or resistor pack? The blower motors seem to make as much pressure
>as before but the idle drop is a problem in stop and go traffic.
>
>Kind regards for any assistance,
>
>Joe Bunik
>jbunik@bayarea.net
>
>'87 XJS
------------------------------
From: ata@netsrq.com
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 07:17:16 -0500
Subject: Re: jag book
Jaguar V8 Conversion Manual
by Mike Knell
Distributed by Jaguars That Run
P.O. Box 66
Livermore, Ca. 94550
Best book on the subject.
Everything I ignored came back to haunt me until I did what he said!
Chad Bolles wrote:
>
> Steven: You want " Jaguars That Run", Mike wrote it,I do not have his
> phone # right now as a friend has the book.
> Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044On
> Tue, 3 Dec 1996 LEAMYS@aol.com wrote:
>
> > looking for a book called "jag conversions" by mike knells or knellis.
> > any one have any feedback on this publication?
> >
> > Steven M Leamy
> >
------------------------------
From: Chad Bolles <aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 07:20:16 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S Hood Bulges
John: The hood(bonnet) that you speak of is on the 6 cyl cars only.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044On
Tue, 3 Dec 1996, John Napoli wrote:
> I've noticed that some late model XJ-S's have a hood with a bulge running
> down the center. Is this to allow clearance for the different air intake
> plumbing described in a recent posting?
>
> John
>
>
>
------------------------------
From: radiowsh@mindport.net
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 13:08:22 GMT
Subject: Re: jag book
On Tue, 3 Dec 1996 23:57:12 -0500, Chris Walker wrote:
>Jags That Run has a web page that you can find using LYCOS or whatever.
> Their books, covering several conversions, can be ordered via telephone
>using a credit card (the telephone numbers are just for book orders, not=
tech
>advice). I've used the search option and found John's Cars, who also do
>conversions.
>
>Chris Walker
>San Diego
>1979 XJ6/350
>
Try http://www.jagsthatrun.com
Vince
- --
Vince Chrzanowski radiowsh@mindport.net
- ------------------------------------------------
"There is not a moment to be lost" - Jack Aubrey
- ------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
From: "Claus, Mike" <claus@wg.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 96 08:43:13 EST
Subject: Re[2]: XJ-S Hood Bulges
After '92 the 12 became an option in XJ-S - standard was 6 -
and the price for a 12 was a LOT higher. In 96 no 12 was
available at all. I'm sure there a a lot of V6 XJ-S in the US
- including mine!
- mclaus ('93 XJ-S Convertible - V6)
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: XJ-S Hood Bulges
Author: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR) at WG-RAL-SMTP
Date: 12/4/96 4:59 AM
> On Wed, 4 Dec 1996, John Setters wrote:
>
> > The increased bulge is to accomodate the AJ6 3.6 litre 6 cylinder motor.
>
> But the cars I've seen are clearly marked V12. And anyway I didn't think
> that any 6 cylinder XJ-S's made it to the states.
Mmmh, I think I read that there quite a bunch of the latest XJ-S 6 cylinder
in the US
------------------------------
From: Baard Th Hesvik <baard@telesoft.no>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 15:01:25 -0800
Subject: Ozee language (Jag-content=zero)
Ned wrote:
>I only mention these as they may be used by people in our list, and more
>imoprtanatly, to satisfy world's insatiable thirst for knowledge of our
>language.
While you're at it Ned, is there something we ought'a know about the above word:
imoprtanatly? Seems to me you've gatta be anything but lazy to prenounce that.
Hmmm....?
Cheers,
Bard
- --
______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ /_/ / /_/ /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ _/ /_/ / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no
------------------------------
From: "Kirbert" <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 09:21:18 -0005
Subject: RE: XJ-S Hood Bulges
> The increased bulge is to accomodate the AJ6 3.6 litre 6
> cylinder motor.
>
John Napoli:
> But the cars I've seen are clearly marked V12.
That's because they didn't wanna make two different hoods!
Still, I'm not at all sure about that explanation. The bulge doesn't
seem significantly larger to me, it's just narrower -- which makes it
LOOK larger. And, of course, I don't like it as well. And the
AJ6-powered cars appeared in Europe long before the V-12 got this
hood.
> And anyway I didn't think
> that any 6 cylinder XJ-S's made it to the states.
Yes, they did. In fact, the ONLY 1993 XJ-S's were sixes, since the
V-12 was suspended for the year for upgrading. But the sixes were in
Europe for several years before coming here.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm's Postulate
------------------------------
From: Stefan Schulz <jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 11:45:38 GMT
Subject: Re: XJS Low Idle
In message <9612040218.AA0457@worldcom-57.worldcom.com> Jan Wikstroem writes:
> The normal drop should be from 750 rpm without air conditioning to 500 with; a
With due respect, I beg to differ. When the a/c kicks in, an auxiliary
air valve in the right hand cleaner should open, keeping the idle speed
roughly the same. The drop in idle speed you mention applies when the
air valve is stuck. That will also lead to slow starts on cold mornings.
(Recent discussion about the latter is what prompted me to replace the
valve, and hey presto, the idle speed no longer drops when a/c comes on.)
Regards,
- --
Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
------------------------------
From: Stefan Schulz <jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 11:35:49 GMT
Subject: Re: XJ-S Hood Bulges
In message <Pine.SUN.3.95.961203193801.2901C-100000@linet01> John Napoli writes:
> I've noticed that some late model XJ-S's have a hood with a bulge running
> down the center. Is this to allow clearance for the different air intake
> plumbing described in a recent posting?
A body shop told me that the bonnet with the bulge is for straight sixes
and the flatter one for the V12. They remarked on that because my V12
has the bulging bonnet. I have seen V12s with both types of bonnet and
straight sixes only with the bulged one, so perhaps it's age-related.
Come to think of it, does the HE need more underbonnet space than the non-HE
or does the square rail fuel system need more space than the round rail ?
That could be an explanation.
Regards,
- --
Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
------------------------------
From: Michael Powers/TEIR/Thomson <Michael_Powers@teir.com>
Date: 4 Dec 96 10:22:42
Subject: XJ40 - Check engine?
While driving my 89 XJ40 into work today, the amber VCM "check engine" light
came on (along
with that huge Exclamation Point on the display).
So where does one start looking for a cause? The car is driving fine, although
I felt a
little strangeness in the brakes at low speed. Vacuum pressure problem?
Would the brake accumulator cause this? (It is on my list of things to do..)
Thanks for any input,
Mike
/*-----------------------------------------------------------------*\
| mpowers@teir.com
|
| "A man without hand is not a man. I've got so much hand
| I'm coming out of my gloves."
| - George Costanza, in Seinfeld episode "The Pez Dispenser"
\*-------------------------------------------------------------------*/
------------------------------
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 16:48:51 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: Re[2]: XJ-S Hood Bulges
>
> After '92 the 12 became an option in XJ-S - standard was 6 -
> and the price for a 12 was a LOT higher. In 96 no 12 was
> available at all. I'm sure there a a lot of V6 XJ-S in the US
> - including mine!
>
> - mclaus ('93 XJ-S Convertible - V6)
I guess it's not a V6 actually :-)
Kind regards
- - Matthias
------------------------------
From: Joe Bunik <jbunik@bayarea.net>
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 08:10:17 -0800
Subject: Re: XJS Low Idle
Thanks for all the responses to my inquiry regarding my problem with
idle speeds....
I have tried Randy Wilson's suggestion to disconnect the A/C compressor
(electrical connection right where described!)... The result is
encouraging since I now see the idle drop from 750 to approximately 500
rpm which is consistent with what people suggest...
With the recent comments by Stefan Schulz that even this rpm loss should
not occur tends to indicate perhaps 2 problems, the first being
something wrong with my A/C compressor causing the excessive load and
the second being the auxiliary air valve...
The rpm loss with air conditioning on has been with the vehicle since I
bought it (3 years) and I have wondered why the rpm loss occured since
normally one wants additional rpms for cooling when at idle.. I have
also had the related problem with slow starts in the cold although in
the San Jose California area cold is a relative term..
Does anyone have experience in repairing the aux air valve (I will check
for electrical connections of course) or is replacement the recommended
solution? It sounds as if Stefan chose the replacement course of
action.
Disconnecting the A/C compressor lets me keep operating at some degree
of comfort when the heater is desirable and I will use the windows and
sunroof for cooling.. :)) I will pursue the compressor and air
valve further as the holiday season permits and provide feedback to
Kirby for use as he sees fit..
Regards,
Joe Bunik
jbunik@bayarea.net
87 XJS
------------------------------
From: Michael Neal <mneal@wco.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 07:54:55 -0800
Subject: Re: XJ40 Hydraulics
Without shimming, the original springs will NOT work, the car rides a
couple inches too low. I developed a kit, a year before Jag offered one,
from Jag parts that allowed the original springs to be used. Basically I
used the lower spring cup and flipped the gold cad plated piece over. This
caused the car to have a ride similar to the rear of an XJR. Any
motorcycle enthusiast knows that dialing in more spring preload increases
the stiffness of the ride<g>.
At 01:05 AM 12/4/96 -0500, Randy Wilson wrote:
>>
>>
>>The original springs give the harder ride if you set them up properly. To
>>get proper resell value you should go with the kit though.
>>
>
>I do not understand this one. The original springs are shorter, and I
>believe weaker (I'll check tomorrow) than the replacements. With the old
>springs, you have to shim the hell out of things to get the ride height
>anywhere near correct. But this shimming will not effect the spring rate,
>or it's installed motion ration.. all of which equals wheel rate. How can
>the ride get stiffer?
>
>
> Randy K. Wilson
> randy@taylor.infi.net
>
>
>
------------------------------
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 17:42:05 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: XJS Low Idle
> I have tried Randy Wilson's suggestion to disconnect the A/C compressor
> (electrical connection right where described!)... The result is
> encouraging since I now see the idle drop from 750 to approximately 500
> rpm which is consistent with what people suggest...
I must be missing the point, but when you disconnet the A/C clutch, the
compressor will not engage and you should not see any change in idle speed
at all I think
- - Matthias
------------------------------
From: Norman Angerhofer <angerhof@ptc.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 10:01:46 -0700
Subject: XJ6 - SIII: tapping noise from engine
I recently purchased a 1985 Series III XJ6 locally. After fixing
major oil leaks, I have been test driving it, and notice there is
a tapping noise coming from the engine. It appears to come from
under the exhaust camshaft cover, but when I use the screwdriver
stethoscope :-), I do not hear any distinctly louder areas.
The former owner (restores old Jags for a living) says he did a valve
job a while back; but as I have found loose bolts on exhause manifold
and breather cover, I am wondering if he was careful to set the tappet
clearances.
My questions:
Does this sound like a valve clearance problem? Is it an easy job to
check and redo the clearances? What other areas should be checked?
Could the noise also be caused by overtightening the camshaft cover nuts?
I checked in the Haynes manual, and among suggested possibilities are
valve clearances and worn timing chain.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
- --Norman Angerhofer
angerhof@ptc.com
------------------------------
From: David J Shield <David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 96 09:35:00 PST
Subject: re: Volt Meter -- How does it work? 83 XJ6
Kyle Chatman wrote:
>I recently replaced the Veliga volt meter with one from Jag
>Heaven, so I tore the old one apart. I've got a question, "How
>does it work?" There is an inverted U shaped metal strip with one
>leg wrapped by the wire running from pole to pole. Current must
>make the U bend? Just curious about the mechanism and how
>sensitive this really is. Thanks.
Jeffrey Gram replied with a description of how a D'Arsonval
movement works. He's right about how it works, and it's very
commonly used in all sorts of applications, and it's probably used
in cars. There's another way: Hot Wire movements are commonly used
in cars and other tough environments. The movement is driven by a
strip of metal, which is sensitive to heat. This metal, or spring,
is wrapped with a resistive wire. The battery voltage is applied
across the wire. The wire heats up in proportion to the applied
current, and changes the metal strip's length or tension
accordingly. As the spring length or tension changes, the needle
moves, up or down depending on whether the wire is getting more hot
or less hot.
Advantages in tough environments are: Very simple and inexpensive
(they've been around since dirt); sturdy; less stuff to go wrong
than the D'Arsonval; and the thermal and physical coefficients are
relatively slow and thus spares the driver from seeing the needle
jump around. From your description, it sounds like it's the Hot
Wire type of movement. Without opening mine up to confirm this
with my own eyeballs, I believe this is the case.
David
'84 XJ6 VDP
'70 E-type 2+2
'76 BSEE
------------------------------
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #565
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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 5 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 566
Re: XJ40 Hydraulics
Re: BW 5 speed Vicarage
Introduction
Jag-Lovers in San Diego: Saturday breakfast?
(Fwd) XJ6 - SIII: tapping noise from engine
e-type conversion
Fan for XJ-S
how he got his Jag Part II
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #565
Re: interior lights, SIII XJ6
US windshields (XJ-S)
Re: XJ6 - SIII: tapping noise from engine
The land of Oz (No Jag content)
XJ-S Hood Bulges
Re: Introduction
Re: Vibration/Transmission
Re: US windshields (XJ-S)
Re: XJ40 Hydraulics
Re: XJ-S Hood Bulges
Re: XJ-S Hood Bulges
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: cobac@ix.netcom.com
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 11:29:58 -0800
Subject: Re: XJ40 Hydraulics
At 07:52 PM 12/3/96 -0500, you wrote:
>Michael-
>
>In a message dated 96-12-03 01:43:09 EST, you write:
>
>> The ride is pretty stiff with the original springs, personally I prefer it
>> that way. I'll check on the price for the kit.
>
>There seems to be some ambivalence among the members about the stiffness
>question. To those of you who prefer it that way, what is the benefit of the
>stiffer ride? To achieve this, would you use the original springs, and not
>the ones in the kit?
>
>Mike Kupritz
>Baltimore, Maryland
>
>
Hi,
I feel like I've typed this So many times, but here's goes again, for
your benefit. When I bought my 1989 XJ40-VDP, the shock system broke. I
don't know what exactly had failed (I think the nitrogen bladders), but it
never road as well as other XJ40's I drove (with standard shocks).
So, I bought the KYB conversion kit for close to $300. It didn't include
springs, just shocks, spacers, and instructions. Well, it rode so FIRM and
HORRIBLE!! Also, the main factor is that since the springs weren't changed,
the whole back of the car sagged as if cinder blocks were in the boot. The
sagging drove me crazy! The car looked horrible sitting so far down in the
back.
Well, I spent another about $500 and did it "the right way", I bought
Jaguar's kit for the conversion from my dealer. It included EVERYTHING: new
springs, shocks, spring holders, spacers, nuts & washers, and plug to block
off the hydraulic line. It didn't come with instructions though. It would
be difficult for a novice without the proper knowledge and spring compressor
to install them. The biggest job is compression and assembly of the strut
asssemblies. But if you have previous experience and know-how AND a spring
compressor, it's not that difficult of a job.
Now, my car rides EXCELLENT!! It couldn't ride any better, and I get
complements from passengers on the beautiful ride of my car. Most
important, the car now has a perfect, level, ride-height. I laugh when I
see an absolute gorgeous 1992 or 1993 car, and the back end of the car is
sitting on the ground while mine is sitting level next to it and looks MUCH
better. Changing to the dealer shocks was one of the best things I did to
the car, and I never worry about having problems with the shock system again.
The only thing I learned, is that although I lost over $300 (now I have a
like-new KYB kit that no one wants to buy) and spent close to $1000 to fix
this system, buying the "proper" accessories from Jaguar will always keep me
happy. So, if when you change the shocks, for a proper and ultra smooth
ride, change the springs with the shocks and install the Jaguar dealers kit.
Regards,
Eric
cobac@ix.netcom.com
------------------------------
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson)
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 11:53:29 -0800
Subject: Re: BW 5 speed Vicarage
You wrote:
>
>70 mph with a 3.54 rear. Cost from $3400 to $4850.
>Available through Terry's Jaguar Parts at 800- 851-9438
>David Chiahotny '70 E-type ots
>Hamilton, Ontario, Canada '71 Spitfire
>E-mail david_chiahotny@dofasco.ca
We have the boxes available for those who want them ( I have one in my
67 coupe) at $2,700 .. you will also need to have a special speedo and
bell housing ( which we can do here..)
all the best
tony
- --
VICARAGE JAGUARS..............Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
http://www.oslonett.no/home/nick/vicarage.html
------------------------------
From: Peter Adams <peter@brig.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 19:17:22 +0000
Subject: Introduction
I am introducing myself, as requested. I live in a quiet village in
Lincolnshire, England and do not have a Jaguar at the moment, although I
am looking for one. I have, however, owned five in the past - starting
with a 1939 SS 3.5 litre four-seater tourer in 1956. I bought it in
Camden Town, London for 110 pounds. There was nothing wrong with it, but
I had to sell it in a hurry when I was posted abroad the following year.
It went for 15 pounds! Sob. Today it would be worth about 90,000.
My next Jaguar was a 3.5 litre saloon - a nice car, but it soon required
an engine rebuild. This was carried out by a firm in Edinburgh that was
better known in racing circles as Ecurie Ecosse. Some of you may
remember them. Naturally, they did a superb job. I can't remember why I
sold this car - it was probably another posting, though. I was a regular
soldier and was always being shunted around the world.
My next three Jaguars were in Africa - another 3.5, a Mk1 2.4 and a Mk2
3.4. To be absolutely accurate, the 2.4 belonged to my wife. At one time
we drove his and hers white jags. Both cars gave excellent service for
years - the only thing they required between them was one replacement
alternator. In the rainy season we had a practical demonstration of how
right Jaguar were to widen the rear axle. The Mk1's back end slid all
over the place on greasy roads and the Mk2's didn't. Both cars were
fitted with overdrive and gave about 30 mpg on long journeys.
Then followed a long period of jaguarlessness while bringing up two sons
and running sensible (but boring) estate cars. Having now retired (I was
65 last week), I am looking for my last Jaguar. I am not finding it
easy. There are plenty for sale, but I really don't want on board
computers, fuel injection, electronic ignition and electric everything.
I'm used to repairing minor breakdowns at the roadside - I don't want to
have to call for a recovery vehicle for a simple fuel problem. On the
other hand, the car needs to be new enough to be reliable. I have no
experience of the XJ6/12 cars and would welcome advice. Offhand, it
looks as though a Series 2 would be the best compromise, but they have a
poor reputation having been made when British Leyland's management had
destroyed the British car industry. Are there any Series 2 owners out
there who can reassure me? Alternatively, am I worrying unnecessarily
about the electronic complexity of the Series 3? I should perhaps add
that I have been running and rebuilding old cars for 40 years, so I am
used to getting my hands dirty.
And finally, is a 12 cylinder really impossible to live with? I probably
would not drive it very much, being content to open the bonnet and gaze
in rapture at that jewel of an engine.
Does anyone have any advice to spare for an old jag lover?
- -
- -
Peter Adams
Lincolnshire, England
------------------------------
From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 14:08:10 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Jag-Lovers in San Diego: Saturday breakfast?
I will be doing some research at the Scripps Institute of Oceanography
in La Jolla, California this Friday and Saturday. Would any of the
Jag-Lovers in the area like to get together for coffee/breakfast on
Saturday morning?
If so, let's meet at 8:30am on Saturday (Dec 7) at the Sea Lodge Hotel,
8110 Camino del Oro, La Jolla, CA 92037 (phone 619-459-8271).
Assuming the place isn't a total dive, I'll reserve a table there under
the name "Jag-lovers". Otherwise, we'll simply meet there and have you
locals decide where the best place is to go, have some coffee/breakfast
and talk Jaguars. If you can't bring your Jag, bring pictures.
If you can, leave a msg for me at the front desk on Friday so that I'll
know how many to expect.
/\ Lawrence Buja http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern
\_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
\_________________________Boulder,_Colorado___80307-3000__________
------------------------------
From: Christopher Howard <choward@ricochet.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 13:27:51 -0700
Subject: (Fwd) XJ6 - SIII: tapping noise from engine
I installed the tappet guide kit and DeLongs automotive adjusted the
valves, etc. What worked for me is installing the hood blanket kit,
no kidding ! my 84xj6 VDP with 102K is very quiet now from the engine
compartment
,also i finally started learning to
enjoy the car and not listen and look for possible future problems. I
remember a year ago when i bought the car I was constantly looking for
trouble.
- --- Forwarded mail from angerhof@ptc.com
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 10:01:46 -0700
From: Norman Angerhofer <angerhof@ptc.com>
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Reply-To: angerhof@ptc.com
Subject: XJ6 - SIII: tapping noise from engine
I recently purchased a 1985 Series III XJ6 locally. After fixing
major oil leaks, I have been test driving it, and notice there is
a tapping noise coming from the engine. It appears to come from
under the exhaust camshaft cover, but when I use the screwdriver
stethoscope :-), I do not hear any distinctly louder areas.
The former owner (restores old Jags for a living) says he did a valve
job a while back; but as I have found loose bolts on exhause manifold
and breather cover, I am wondering if he was careful to set the tappet
clearances.
My questions:
Does this sound like a valve clearance problem? Is it an easy job to
check and redo the clearances? What other areas should be checked?
Could the noise also be caused by overtightening the camshaft cover
nuts?
I checked in the Haynes manual, and among suggested possibilities are
valve clearances and worn timing chain.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
- --Norman Angerhofer
angerhof@ptc.com
- ---End of forwarded mail from angerhof@ptc.com
- --
**********************************************
Christopher Howard- Technical Support
408/973-8181 email: christopher@netmanage.com
408/973-8272 fax
NetManage Inc. Cupertino, California
Home of the Chameleon !
This Message sent my Zmail 4.01 for Windows
**********************************************
------------------------------
From: Mr Steve Naude <stevpn@iafrica.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 00:06:46 +-200
Subject: e-type conversion
i own a 1969 e-type series 2 ots in lhd which i need to convert to rhd
any tips or advice would be welcome
kind regards
steve naude
------------------------------
From: Tony Watts <amw@maths.uq.oz.au>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 09:12:33 +1000
Subject: Fan for XJ-S
This is a question for any fan wizards of Oz. Since my car (88 XJ-S)
has been overheating to an unacceptible level during the 40 degree C
temperature we have been having lately, it is time to do something about it.
The question is where can I get a replacement fan. Given Kirby's advice
in his book, it seems that a non-jaguar fan might be preferable. What
would be a suitable replacement available in Australia and where might I
get it? The fan on my Holden is of a similar style and seems to work much
more effectively and gives a much better blast of air but unfortunately
its boss is quite a bit bigger and the screws that hold it on to the pulley
are much further apart.
Tony Watts
amw@maths.uq.oz.au
------------------------------
From: tts@cadvision.com (Dan Hayes)
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 16:29:04 -0700
Subject: how he got his Jag Part II
Like the rest of you, I'm enjoying the story of the XKE purchase.....
but I'm wondering, is this the JAG equivelent of a *Dear Penthouse* letter?
Dan
85 SIII
Calgary
------------------------------
From: "Gregory W. Price" <gprice@mack.rt66.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 16:36:01 -0700
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #565
Damn, guys, forget I asked!!!!!!
Greg
> John S,
> as someone who was: born a ' Celtic Pommy Bastard', educated and
> grew up in N.Z., and married an 'Aussi Sheila' (in London U.K. ); I always
> understood that the Pakeha (Whitefella) language here was called 'Strine',
> which is short for 'Ozstrylien'!!
> - ------------------------------------
> From: John Setters <john_setters@eagle.co.nz>
>
> Ergun from ov'r the ditch.
> Kiwis have no trouble with the Staine language !!
>
> John L,
> I agree with your assessment of the tendency for even quite well
> educated adult Australians to indulge in 'baby talk'.
>
> - -------------------------
> from: "John Littler" <auibmdak@ibmmail.com>
>
> Australians are very lazy speakers, any word (particularly names) that
> can be shortened is, those that can't get half the syllables dropped
> when spoken. hence the infamous "G'day mate"- short for Good day, mate.
> pronounced as one word.
>
> - --------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Jim [like Harry Secombe, my origins can be traced back to W(h)ales], Ellis.
>
> P.S. I have already donned my flame suit and am braced for any impending
> 'warm change'.
>
> ****************************************************
> Jim Ellis
------------------------------
From: "Gregory W. Price" <gprice@mack.rt66.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 16:37:41 -0700
Subject: Re: interior lights, SIII XJ6
My '85 XJ6 VdP does not have an interior light delay feature.
Greg.
------------------------------
From: John Goodman <101547.1141@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 04 Dec 96 18:38:45 EST
Subject: US windshields (XJ-S)
Just curious .. Do US spec cars have the top tint on the windshields ??
I want to replace my front screen, and if there is a top tint one fitted
to US cars then I may be able to get one here in the UK.
John Goodman
'89 XJR-S 6.0L
------------------------------
From: "Gregory W. Price" <gprice@mack.rt66.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 16:53:31 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ6 - SIII: tapping noise from engine
> Does this sound like a valve clearance problem? Is it an easy job to
> check and redo the clearances? What other areas should be checked?
It sounds like either a valve clearance problem or a valve tappet
guide problem. The first is easy and cheap (though laborious) to
fix, the second is easy and expensive (though laborious) to fix. The
second can cause your engine to self destruct. Check to see if your
car has had a stakedown kit installed. You can read about it in Jim
Isbell's book "XJ6 from Bumber to Bumber". Find out which problem
you have very quickly. Like yesterday.
> Could the noise also be caused by overtightening the camshaft cover nuts?
No, but overtightening the cam cover nuts can easily cause the cam
cover to crack and they ain't cheap!!! I was lucky enough to trade
an old fax machine for one after my car's PO overtorqued the nuts,
cracking the exhaust-side cover.
> I checked in the Haynes manual, and among suggested possibilities are
> valve clearances and worn timing chain.
Worn timing chains will usually slap and rattle, rather than tick.
The best way to check this out is to pull the exhaust-side cam cover
and listen with the engine running. Check your valve clearances
while you have the cover off, and look for the stakedown kit (a metal
piece screwed to the head spanning the valve tappet guides.) Have a
fresh cam cover gasket before you do this. You can reach the upper
timing chain while you are in there (but not with the engine running,
mind you). There should be no perceptable slack.
Good luck!
Greg
'85 XJ6 VdP
------------------------------
From: ajbeale@squirrel.com.au (A.J. Beale)
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 10:50:38 +1000 (EST)
Subject: The land of Oz (No Jag content)
>Why do people refer to Australia as Oz? And Australian currency as
>Ozbucks?
Greg: Over a period of years, with the human tendency to shorten words,
people began referring to Australia as Aus. then some spelt it as 'Oz'.
Since we adopted dollars as our currency, they are often referred to by the
American term of 'bucks', so Australian dollars are often referred to as Aus
dollars or sometimes Ozbucks. Alan.
------------------------------
From: ajbeale@squirrel.com.au (A.J. Beale)
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 10:58:40 +1000 (EST)
Subject: XJ-S Hood Bulges
John: There may be other reasons, but some XJ-Ss had a 6 cylinder engine
and these had a hood bulge to accommodate the taller engine. Alan.
------------------------------
From: Jan Wikstroem <Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au>
Date: 5 Dec 96 10:10:03
Subject: Re: Introduction
Peter Adams <snip 1>: ...poor reputation having been made when British
Leyland's management had destroyed the British car industry. Are there any
Series 2 owners out there who can reassure me?
- -----------------
By all accounts, the build quality was as low as the morale of the workforce,
but survivors will long since have been thoroughly sorted. I have two S2 V12s
(4door and coupe), which I found thoroughly reliable as daily drivers. In fact,
I'm sure that frequent driving is what keeps them healthy, as the vibrations
prevent the dreadful Lucas connectors from oxidising. The 4-door tends to spend
most of its time idle, as I can't really afford two cars and I'm trying to sell
it; if it stands for two weeks it runs very roughly for the first hour or so,
and window winders and headlights take about the same time to wake up. So I
make sure to run it at least once a week...
<snip2> ...is a 12 cylinder really impossible to live with? I probably would
not drive it very much, being content to open the bonnet and gaze in rapture at
that jewel of an engine.
- --------------------------
Most certainly not. After all, it's only two sixes sharing a number of parts...
Over the past five years, I've found out a few things they seem to be prone to
- - all electrical. Both my cars had fatigue breaks in the ignition trigger wires
where they leave the distributor, leading to intermittent ignition failure. Not
easy to trace, but easy to fix, and tying down the wires has removed the cause
(big connector flopping around). Some bad connectors in the injection control
system gave trouble until I discovered how to clean them and tighten them up. I
fixed the ignition problem on the coupe six months ago, and it hasn't hiccuped
since in about 350 km weekly driving. Well, apart from a broken throttle cable
- - but that's hardly the fault of the engine, more like my fault for giving the
throttle such a workout...
Mechanically, the 12 is immensely strong. I've been told that it was designed
from the outset for endurance racing with a power peak at 8,000 rpm, so the
6,500 rpm redline due to the single-cam heads isn't going to put serious stress
on the bottom end.
Yes, it's gorgeous to look at and even more impressive out of the car (a 3/4
scale Spitfire would look good behind it). But it is at its best when driving,
either creaming along without noise or vibration at boulevard speeds or
snarling joyously at speed. It's a monster, but a glorious monster.
Anti-social? Maybe so, but any lynch mob that wants to part me from it will
have its work cut out...
- -Jan
'77 XJ12C
'78 XJ12L
------------------------------
From: Victor Naumann <jagdoc@erols.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 21:30:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Vibration/Transmission
Randy Wilson wrote:
>
> XJ40's are not known for driveshaft problems...
> nothing like the SII cars... but I would still give a good look at the
> center support bearing.
>
> >
> >Mike Clement
> >
>
> Randy K. Wilson
> randy@taylor.infi.net
I can't tell you how many driveshafts we have replaced on XJ 40s but I'm
sure it has been very many. But vibration at idle is most likely from
the engine or bad engine mounts. There are later,softer, mounts that
help problems at idle.
Regards, Vic
------------------------------
From: mkenrick@golder.com (Michael Kenrick)
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 19:24:16 -0800
Subject: Re: US windshields (XJ-S)
> Author: John Goodman <101547.1141@CompuServe.COM> at internet
>Just curious .. Do US spec cars have the top tint on the windshields ??
My 86 XJ-S had a clear screen when I bought it from a Californian
doctor in 1990. Never asked him if it had been replaced, though.
> I want to replace my front screen, and if there is a top tint one
fitted to US cars then I may be able to get one here in the UK.
I had mine replaced last year after an encounter with a rock from a
nasty big truck. I was shocked and surprised to find it had the top
tint. Its Okay, .... But is it authentic...???
Michael Kenrick
Seattle, USA
------------------------------
From: Randy Wilson <randy@taylor.infi.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 22:38:03 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ40 Hydraulics
>
>
>Without shimming, the original springs will NOT work, the car rides a
>couple inches too low. I developed a kit, a year before Jag offered one,
>from Jag parts that allowed the original springs to be used. Basically I
>used the lower spring cup and flipped the gold cad plated piece over. This
>caused the car to have a ride similar to the rear of an XJR. Any
I checked springs today. Both a set of old hydro ones (red/white) and
the new kilt style (blue/white). Both springs are 5.5" diameter, and have
four active coils. The big difference is in the wire diameter. The old ones
are 0.618", and the new ones are 0.688". If I remember my linear coil
spring rate formula correctly (my good book is at work), in this particular
case all of the variables except the wire size are the same, i.e. constants.
In the formula, the wire diameter is raised to the fourth power. This
would suggest the new springs are around 50% stiffer.
>motorcycle enthusiast knows that dialing in more spring preload increases
>the stiffness of the ride<g>.
How do you dial in more "preload"? A spring with a given weight on it while
compress to a certain calculable length. There by, the upper size seat will
be that amount above the lower seat. If you raise one spring seat, either by
threaded perches or by flipping the cup over, the other seat will move up
the same distance. If the weight carried remains constant, this distance will
remain constant, until you hit some mechanical limit, such as a droop stop.
The only way to change the load on a spring is to change the weight it is
carrying.
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
------------------------------
From: John Napoli <jgn@li.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 23:01:37 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S Hood Bulges
This seems to be the opinion of all on the list. But the darn things said
V12!? So is the trunk lid lying, or were there some special models made?
Maybe special dealer equipment?
John
On Wed, 4 Dec 1996, Chad Bolles wrote:
> John: The hood(bonnet) that you speak of is on the 6 cyl cars only.
> Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044On
> Tue, 3 Dec 1996, John Napoli wrote:
>
> > I've noticed that some late model XJ-S's have a hood with a bulge running
> > down the center. Is this to allow clearance for the different air intake
> > plumbing described in a recent posting?
> >
> > John
> >
> >
> >
>
------------------------------
From: John Napoli <jgn@li.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 23:04:01 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S Hood Bulges
On Wed, 4 Dec 1996, Stefan Schulz wrote:
> A body shop told me that the bonnet with the bulge is for straight sixes
> and the flatter one for the V12. They remarked on that because my V12
> has the bulging bonnet. I have seen V12s with both types of bonnet and
> straight sixes only with the bulged one, so perhaps it's age-related.
Both XJ-S's I've seen were real late models - a year or two old, by
appearances.
>
> Come to think of it, does the HE need more underbonnet space than the non-HE
> or does the square rail fuel system need more space than the round rail ?
>
My '82 HE has the square rail and the flat hood and no problem.
John
------------------------------
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #566
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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 5 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 567
Re: Re[2]: XJ-S Hood Bulges
RE: XJ-S Hood Bulges
Re: Ozee language (Jag-content=zero)
Re: US windshields (XJ-S)
part 4 of "How I Found My Jag"
Re: Fan for XJ-S
Upper Cylinder Lubrication
Re: Fan for XJ-S
San Diego breakfast meeting
re: Volunteers again
XJS Vibrations
Zenith Stromberg 175 cd-2-- Replacement Options?
Re: XJ6-XJ12 conversion
Re: Vicarage XJ13 Jaguar
You have a postcard!
XJ 6 - 12 conversion.
newbie & '68 E-type
"How I Found My Jag"
Re: Gas Pedal Heaviness....
XJS brake lights stay on
RE: XJS Low Idle
Re: XJ40 - Check engine?
RE: "How I Found My Jag"
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: John Napoli <jgn@li.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 23:05:38 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Re[2]: XJ-S Hood Bulges
On Wed, 4 Dec 1996, Claus, Mike wrote:
> After '92 the 12 became an option in XJ-S - standard was 6 -
> and the price for a 12 was a LOT higher. In 96 no 12 was
> available at all. I'm sure there a a lot of V6 XJ-S in the US
> - including mine!
>
> - mclaus ('93 XJ-S Convertible - V6)
>
V6!!! Now I'm really confused! Is this a GM retrofit?? :)
John
------------------------------
From: John Napoli <jgn@li.net>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 23:08:34 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: XJ-S Hood Bulges
> That's because they didn't wanna make two different hoods!
>
> Still, I'm not at all sure about that explanation. The bulge doesn't
> seem significantly larger to me, it's just narrower -- which makes it
> LOOK larger. And, of course, I don't like it as well. And the
> AJ6-powered cars appeared in Europe long before the V-12 got this
> hood.
>
The bulge I saw was higher than our 'flat' hoods -- maybe a half-inch or
so in the center. To tell you the truth it looked kind or aftermarketish.
John
------------------------------
From: Jan Wikstroem <Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au>
Date: 5 Dec 96 9:39:44
Subject: Re: Ozee language (Jag-content=zero)
Baard: Seems to me you've gatta be anything but lazy to prenounce that.
- -----------------
Naah, you just postnounce it.
;3+)
- -Jan
------------------------------
From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 21:19:13 -0700
Subject: Re: US windshields (XJ-S)
Regarding John's question about tinted windshields...
The original windshield on my 85 XJ-S did not have a top dark band, but was
tinted a slight green color throughout (like the rest of the glass in the car).
Rob W-M
85 XJ-S
------------------------------
From: brett ferguson <howard@calweb.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Dec 1996 20:32:44 -0800
Subject: part 4 of "How I Found My Jag"
Tom explained that the owner agreed to give me first right to buy and
that he wanted cash. By this time I had figured out how to get money
together from various funds, and I needed a couple of weeks to do it.
Meanwhile, my Jag was getting a paint job and other cosmetics were
being done ( a few dings removed and cracked RR tail light lens
replaced). Tom called a few days later to say that the paint job looked
"bitchin'". He told me that he had lowered the top and I should come see
her. I'm there that same afternoon.
When I saw her I could scarcely contain my excitement. She was
gorgeous, the most seductive car I had ever seen. She looked 10 times
more beautiful than the last time and I knew she was mine. Now it was
time for me to take her for a spin. Tom agreed since I was now the
almost-buyer of this cat. He handed me the keys, I put the key in the
ignition and pressed the starter. She fired up to the delicious purr
that I heard before. I drove her easily out of the lot onto the same
road as I had been previously when Tom was driving. I turned right and
got onto a windy, twisty country road with many blind curves. I gingerly
gave her some encouragement with my right foot and she responded with a
smooth burst of acceleration that took us too fast for an upcoming
decreasing radius curve. I backed off the gas and gently applied the
brake. She stayed right with me. I got back on the pedal coming out the
curve in 2nd and we flew. Wow, what a rush. Still goin' strong after
almost 30 years of use (and obvious care). What a car! I continued on
the road for about 2 miles and found a place to turn around, in total
love and lust for this car. My initial impression was confirmed on the
trip back to the shop. I tested brakes, steering and all switches and
found them to work fine. Even the funky original AM-FM radio was OK,
though at one point I was getting 2 stations simultaneously. A couple
of other drivers gawked at the car and almost ran off the road. I love
it.
Tom justy happens to have a friend and Euro car mechanic who has a
shop a block away and he is going to inspect the Jag, top off fluids
etc. and make recommendation for any repairs that may need to be done.
By this time I had purchased a book on XKEs and accessed the Jag web
site and other sources re prices if XKE Roadsters of the same year. I
couldn't believe that similar vehicles were selling for up to 25000
more, sepecially on the East coast. Oh what a deal. Tom called to say
that the owner would be at his shop in 2 days andf that he would be
happy to meet me and talk about the car. Oh, and bring the cash.
TO BE CONTINUED
------------------------------
From: Thomas Alberts <talberts@aero.odu.edu>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 23:53:06 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Fan for XJ-S
The fan that came in your XJ-S would be adequate to maintain normal
temperature if the cooling system was in good health otherwise.
You probably have a clogged radiator, either inside or out (or both),
or siezed centrifugal advance is a possibility as well.
Thomas E. Alberts
1987 XJ-S
------------------------------
From: "Kirbert" <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 00:16:10 -0005
Subject: Upper Cylinder Lubrication
A possible topic for discussion. Doesn't apply to any specific
Jaguar or even Jaguars in particular, just to any car that the owner
hopes will last a long time.
It is my understanding that the main reason diesel engines last
longer than gasoline engines is that diesel fuel itself (oil to you
Brits) has far more lubricity than gasoline (petrol to you Aussies).
Diesels are built much heavier, but that's because they have to be,
it isn't necessarily what leads to durability. They also produce
less power than gasoline engines of comparable size, which may
contribute to durability -- but there are lots of people who never
drive their gasoline engines hard, and they still don't last as long
as diesel engines.
I find the lubricity argument very convincing. While we all try our
best to keep good oil in our crankcases, it's arguable that this does
little or no good for the top piston ring or the upper
piston/cylinder area. And if the valve stem seals are any good, it
does NOTHING for the valve stem/guide interface. Gasoline is more of
a solvent than a lubricant, so if there is any lubricant anywhere in
the upper cylinder or head, it gets washed away.
So: If we really want our cars to last forever, wouldn't it be a
good idea to add something to the gas tank to provide some
lubrication to these areas? Three options come to mind:
1) Marvel Mystery Oil. This wonder stuff claims so many uses as to
raise serious skepticism, but one claimed use is as a gasoline
additive to make engines last longer.
2) Other snake oils. There's no shortage of things on the market to
add to gasoline, including upper cylinder lubricants, octane
boosters, lead substitutes and combinations thereof.
3) Two-cycle oil.
I would presume it'd probably be a bad idea to have any of these
things in the tank when taking an emissions test. Also, I dunno what
the effect would be on catalytic convertors. When burned, do all
these things end up looking just like any other exhaust? Or will
they crud up the convertor?
It seems to me that any of these additives would probably be an
improvement in lubrication over nothing. The two-cycle oil could be
mixed far weaker than it is for two-cycle engines, since any amount
is a benefit, and we clearly wouldn't need as much as a two-cycle
engine needs.
Whatta you guys think? Would such additives be a BETTER investment
than spending a lot of money on oil additives, filters, synthetic
oil, etc., in terms of making one's engine last longer?
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm's Postulate
------------------------------
From: Jan Wikstroem <Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au>
Date: 5 Dec 96 15:24:54
Subject: Re: Fan for XJ-S
It's ten bucks to a bottletop that the problem is not your fan but your
radiator. The idiot advice in the user manual to stick Bar's Leaks into the
system at every opportunity leads to partial radiator blockage. Flushing won't
help; both my V12 radiators seemed to backflush perfectly OK, but when I had
them opened up, each was blocked by about a third. After rebuilding both, I
have had no further overheating problems. Others on the list have made the same
experience.
Here are some simple indications:
* overheating on idle or at city crawl speed, not otherwise: fan trouble. Check
viscous coupling on main fan. Overhauled couplings are available in Oz. Does
electric fan run when air condition on but not when engine is boiling?
Temperature switch in water pump housing or its wiring is faulty. Does electric
fan not run at all? Fan, relay or wiring faulty (check in-line fuse above fan).
* overheating at high speed, not otherwise: radiator blocked. It's no help if
the air dam is missing.
* overheating at all times except when weather is cold: thermostats fail to
close bypass passage (Jag thermostats have extra little disc for this job).
This is either dud thermostats or erosion of bypass valve seat behind
thermostat (inspect, test thermostat).
If the bypass is OK, the main fan hums along, the electric fan runs, the
radiator is clean inside and out (and there isn't a lot of crud on the air
conditioning condensor stopping the air flow) and the car still overheats at
low speed or idling, *that's* when you go looking for a bigger fan.
- -Jan
------------------------------
From: Ken Wallace <kwallac2@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 1996 22:54:26 -0800
Subject: San Diego breakfast meeting
Lawrence Buja wrote:
>I will be doing some research at the Scripps Institute of Oceanography
>in La Jolla, California this Friday and Saturday. Would any of the
>Jag-Lovers in the area like to get together for coffee/breakfast on
>Saturday morning?
Great !!! The Sea Lodge is an ideal place for such a gathering. Probably the
best choice in San Diego, right on the beach with a great view and good
food. Not cheap however.
I will have the rear axle out of my Mk 2, so it can't be there, but I will
be. I hope the rest of you San Diego area Jag-lovers will show up as well.
Ken Wallace
------------------------------
From: "Kirbert" <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 02:27:41 -0005
Subject: re: Volunteers again
Michael Frank:
> 1. I will do some reviews, if a home can be found.
All right, everybody, Michael has volunteered to provide info on
Jaguar books if someone will provide a WWW site to post it on. Any
takers?
Reply to him, please. He's at:
mfrank@westnet.com
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm's Postulate
------------------------------
From: "Stephen Stewart" <SAPLSTEWART@msn.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 96 07:20:26 UT
Subject: XJS Vibrations
Hi Jag lovers,
I have had my XJS (81 HE) for 4 trouble free years, 1 trans rebuild and new
air rails only, but over the past few months the car has been intermittently
vibrating
whilst driving. This seems to happen at various speeds and perhaps? is worse
when the fuel tank is full. Other times it drives like a dream.
Does anyone know what this could be, I suspect wheel bearings or universal
joints but havent had a good look at either.
Any thoughts welcome
Steve Stewart
81 XJS
83 Range Rover
4 kids hence above
------------------------------
From: Curt Onstott <onstottc@ucs.orst.edu>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 00:16:27 -0800
Subject: Zenith Stromberg 175 cd-2-- Replacement Options?
Is there a good "bolt-on" SU replacement for the ZS carbs on my 75 XJ6?
If I can't afford an SU or Weber conversion, is there a manual choke
option available for the strombergs? I'm not too fond of the choke
setup as it is and would like to have more control over how long the
chocke stays on.
I'm going to be tearing into my stombergs this weekend-- gas is gushing
out of one and I'd assume that the float valve needs cleaned or
replaced. I'm also going to take the time to replace any leaky vacumn
hoses and plug up any other air leaks. My car was desmogged when I
bought it and I'm going to try to clean thet up a little. (At least
five hoses are plugged with wood screws and stuff.
- --
- -Pessimist: "This ship is sinking." -Optimist: "This ship is half full."
Curt Onstott - Windows/DOS/PC Specialist - Information Services -
Oregon
State University. - (541) 737-1483 - Office: Kerr 217
------------------------------
From: Mike Morrin <mikem@southern.co.nz>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 21:40:15 +1200
Subject: Re: XJ6-XJ12 conversion
Gregory W. Price wrote:
>
> > From: Jan Wikstroem <Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au>
> > I agree with what you say about the stronger front springs,
>
> Will the front springs from
> an XJS work on my SIII XJ6/12?
>
When I got my XJ-S some previous owner had fitted XJ6 front springs (I
presume to lower the ride height) it was a bit hazardous on speed humps
and I kept losing the front spoiler in car parks.
Anyway, when I saved up and bought some new springs, the instructions in
the box indicated that they would fit XJ-S or XJ12 with different
shims.
regards,
Mike
------------------------------
From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson)
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 02:43:14 -0800
Subject: Re: Vicarage XJ13 Jaguar
You wrote:
>
>Does anyone know of a company that produces an XJ13 replica? I only
know
>of Colborne's in the UK, but are there any others?
Colborne's is actually the agent for Proteus... Our XJ13 is the only
one which has actually been driven around the Jaguar Coventry works by
Chairman Nick Scheele...and used in place of their original when it was
not working.... tested and on the cover of Jguar World magazine ...To
order $275k or one available at $175k in Holland..
Kind regards
tony
- --
VICARAGE JAGUARS..............Restoration & Enhancement Specialists
USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades
tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations
fax 305 443 6443
http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com
http://www.oslonett.no/home/nick/vicarage.html
------------------------------
From: (none)
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 05:47:43 -0500
Subject: You have a postcard!
There is a postcard waiting for you in the postcard office.
You may claim it at the pickup window, which is located at
http://www.jaguarcars.com/uk/sections/sgb/getcard.html
Your claim ticket is: 849782862.2995
Please have this available when you claim your postcard
------------------------------
From: Baard Th Hesvik <baard@telesoft.no>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 12:23:10 -0800
Subject: XJ 6 - 12 conversion.
Hi all,
It seems a posting with all the facts is in order ;-)
Jan is right of course; the XJ engine bay was designed for a bigger engine.
Jaguar, finding the V8's too rough and too usual, being used to power everything
from sports cars to big strech limousines, settled for a V12 unit, designed by
virtually the same team that came up with the XK engine.
Jaguar spent 3 million pounds on development for the new XJ12. Apart from the
engine itself, wiring looms and transmission mounts etc, the following was
added/altered:
- -Resirculating fuel system to prevent fumes in under bonnet area
- -Stainless steel heat shields around the steering column and engine mounts
- -Stainless steel heat shields along the full length of the underbody
- -Steel casing for the battery, with a fan activating at temps in excess of 55C
- -Uprated and lengthened springs caused by (only) 80lbs extra weight; 308kg as
opposed to 272kg
- -Stronger wishbones were employed in front suspension
- -Ventilated discs (front) for the first time; 11.18inch and 0.94inch thick, as
used on the V12 E-Type
- -A brake balance valve from Kelsey-Hayes and a Girling Supervac brake servo with
additional reserve polypropylene tank fitted under the right hand front wing
- -No longer relevant; the special Dunlop tyres were uprated with a nylon casing
and a steel breaker strip.
- -New steel wheels with extra ventilation
- -Exhaust piping bore slightly increased; 1 1/8 inch to 2 inch
- -7000rpm revolution counter and 160Mph speedometer
On my own XJ6 Series I the steering rack is marked V12 although I have no
records of it having been replaced, so I don't know what to think about that.
All this applies to the first XJ Series I V12s. Some of the features may have
been made standard equipment along the years, but at least one should check
before embarking on a conversion, if you want to do it right that is ;-)
The necessity of some of these points may be argued, but if you want to enter
the converted car in Concours d'Elegance it must add up!
Good luck!
Bard
- --
______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ /_/ / /_/ /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ _/ /_/ / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no
------------------------------
From: Robert Yaskovic <yaskovir@sarah.ksc.nasa.gov>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 07:52:31 -0500
Subject: newbie & '68 E-type
I currently own a '95 Camaro Z28 and I'm on the Internet with other f-body
owners, much like your Jag organization. I'm not a member of your group
but I have a great interest in Jaguars, especially the E-types. My father
has a '68 E-type convertible, Series 1.5 as far as I can tell. Word has it
that I'll be the owner of this car some day so I'm in search of whatever
information I can find, especially under-the-hood information!
If any of you could help me out with a little
knowledge/specifications/interesting tid-bits, please drop me a line!
Thanks,
Rob
------------------------------
From: Bob Shipley <bshipley@mail.tds.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 06:58:42 -0600 (CST)
Subject: "How I Found My Jag"
Back in July of this year, I decided that I would like to have a Jag. I
looked in the newspaper, saw a car that sounded nice, called the owner,
drove it around the block, wrote him a check, drove it home.
BS
88 XJ-S H & E
Sorry, could't resist.
------------------------------
From: theo bremner <tbremner@lynx.dac.neu.edu>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 08:06:12 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Gas Pedal Heaviness....
Hi,
Is there an easy way to lubricate the cable for the gas pedal?
My 85 Sov SIII seems to be very heavy but maybe it is supposed to be
that way. Is it? I'm used to driving the Subaru which the pedal is
very light but it seems that in the jag it should be a bit easier than
it is.
Thanks for any input..
Theo
tbremner@lynx.neu.edu
------------------------------
From: Cliff Sadler <ata@netsrq.com>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 09:05:25 -0500
Subject: XJS brake lights stay on
Take my foot off the brake pedal, and the brake lights stay on.
Put my foot under the pedal and pull up, they go out, and stay out until
I hit a bump, or press them again.
Anyone know where an adjustment to the pedal travel or the switch is
that might be sticking?
Thanks
Cliff Sadler
------------------------------
From: Gunnar Helliesen <gunnar@bitcon.no>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 15:25:12 +0100
Subject: RE: XJS Low Idle
Anyone know if the Series III XJ6 has a similiar mechanism (i.e. the
auxiliary air valve)?
Gunnar
- --
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar Sovereign 4.2
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | '73 Mercedes 280 (240D)
>----------
>From: Stefan Schulz[SMTP:jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk]
>Sent: 4. desember 1996 12:45
>To: Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
>Cc: jag-lovers@sn.no
>Subject: Re: XJS Low Idle
>
>In message <9612040218.AA0457@worldcom-57.worldcom.com> Jan Wikstroem writes:
>> The normal drop should be from 750 rpm without air conditioning to 500
>>with; a
>
>With due respect, I beg to differ. When the a/c kicks in, an auxiliary
>air valve in the right hand cleaner should open, keeping the idle speed
>roughly the same. The drop in idle speed you mention applies when the
>air valve is stuck. That will also lead to slow starts on cold mornings.
>
>(Recent discussion about the latter is what prompted me to replace the
>valve, and hey presto, the idle speed no longer drops when a/c comes on.)
>
------------------------------
From: Michael Powers/TEIR/Thomson <Michael_Powers@teir.com>
Date: 5 Dec 96 9:45:31
Subject: Re: XJ40 - Check engine?
>
>
>While driving my 89 XJ40 into work today, the amber VCM "check engine" light
>came on (along
>with that huge Exclamation Point on the display).
>
>So where does one start looking for a cause? The car is driving fine,
although
Looks like it is a Check Engine - 3. Any Ideas??
Also, on the drive home yesterday, it did not light up. On the way into work
this morning, it appeared after about 10 minutes of driving.
Knowing Jaguar's robust electronics, maybe it only comes on when I'm driving
North?? ;-)
Thanks again,
Mike
------------------------------
From: Mark Budd <mbudd@inforoute.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 10:09:41 -0500
Subject: RE: "How I Found My Jag"
Bob Shipley wrote...
Back in July of this year, I decided that I would like to have a Jag. I
looked in the newspaper, saw a car that sounded nice, called the owner,
drove it around the block, wrote him a check, drove it home.=20
BS
Sorry, could't resist.=20
Hehehehe,=20
Touche Bob! Have to agree, I wrote the way I found "my" E-type in one =
paragraph. I guess you-know-who likes an audience or feels we enjoy the =
long drawn out postings. I read them all, but after the first one, lost =
the fun in reading them. Being an E-type owner and lover, I have no =
choice but to hope it's over soon. If he does this for every repair on =
the car, I'll stick to the E-type group! He "should" write to penthouse! =
Hehehe
Mark Budd
Montreal, '70 OTS : )))=20
------------------------------
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #567
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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 5 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 568
Re: XJS Vibrations
Re: XJ-S Hood Bulges
Re: Re[2]: XJ-S Hood Bulges
Re: XJS brake lights stay on
!977 XJ-S A/C Unit Removal
RE: XJS brake lights stay on
Re: Upper Cylinder Lubrication
radiator swap
Re: XJ40 Hydraulics
Re: Interior lights delay Reply
Re: XJ40 - Check engine?
Tyres or Tires (whichever you prefer)
virtual clubs
XJ6 SIII low water light
Re, Wheres the HP?
FW: XJ-S: Rough Running
XJ-S Oil Pressure
Re: virtual clubs
Re: Upper Cylinder Lubrication
Re: XJ6 SIII low water light
RE: Volunteers again
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Thomas Alberts <talberts@aero.odu.edu>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 10:43:24 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJS Vibrations
> but over the past few months the car has been intermittently
vibrating
> whilst driving. This seems to happen at various speeds and perhaps?
Get under the car and check for sloppy u-joints and driveshaft slip joint.
Thomas E. Alberts
1987 XJ-S
------------------------------
From: Chad Bolles <aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 10:52:11 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S Hood Bulges
John: According to my Jaguar parts fiche dated March 1995 the part
number for the 6 cyl car is CBP303 the part number for the 12 cyl car is
RTC 1530. The RTC 1530 hood(bonnet) is the same part number used on all
XJ-S cars from 1976 and up. That does not mean that when a car was built
that the factory didn't just use the 6 cyl hood on a V-12 car.
Chad Bolles Jagua South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044
------------------------------
From: Chad Bolles <aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 10:55:22 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Re[2]: XJ-S Hood Bulges
John: I am sure that Claus,Mike just made a slip of the typing key,caus
as we all know there AIN,T no such thing as a V-6 Jag, with the exception
being the botched up XJ220 car.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044On
Wed, 4 Dec 1996, John Napoli wrote:
>
>
> On Wed, 4 Dec 1996, Claus, Mike wrote:
>
> > After '92 the 12 became an option in XJ-S - standard was 6 -
> > and the price for a 12 was a LOT higher. In 96 no 12 was
> > available at all. I'm sure there a a lot of V6 XJ-S in the US
> > - including mine!
> >
> > - mclaus ('93 XJ-S Convertible - V6)
> >
> V6!!! Now I'm really confused! Is this a GM retrofit?? :)
>
> John
>
>
------------------------------
From: Chad Bolles <aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 11:00:30 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJS brake lights stay on
Cliff: Its a bitch,cause you have to stand on your head to do it,but you
can adjust the stop lite switch.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044On
Thu, 5 Dec 1996, Cliff Sadler wrote:
> Take my foot off the brake pedal, and the brake lights stay on.
> Put my foot under the pedal and pull up, they go out, and stay out until
> I hit a bump, or press them again.
>
> Anyone know where an adjustment to the pedal travel or the switch is
> that might be sticking?
> Thanks
> Cliff Sadler
>
------------------------------
From: jnuttall@julian.uwo.ca
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 11:34:41 +0000
Subject: !977 XJ-S A/C Unit Removal
>From my 1977 XJ-S I am trying to remove all components attached to the body so that I
can renew any rusted parts of the shell. I am almost there, having
removed the engine/transmission and the whole interior except the
A/C unit (centre of dash) and the demist duct vane that runs above it
just beneath the windshield. The official manual is not too clear to
me, but it seems to suggest that the vane is secured by studs to the
screen rail. I can see no fasteners of any type, but the vane appears
to be secured to the body and/or A/C unit only at an invisible place
in the centre, and I can't see how to get it out. The manual
indicates that, after the vane is removed a screw securing the A/C
unit to the center of the top rail will become accessible. How do I
get at that screw and remove the vane and A/C unit?
Many thanks for your help.
John Nuttall
1977 XJ-S
1979 XJ-S for component testing and parts
jnuttall@julian.uwo.ca
------------------------------
From: "Connie Vloutely" <connie_vloutely@macmail.git.gulfaero.com>
Date: 5 Dec 1996 11:07:03 -0500
Subject: RE: XJS brake lights stay on
Hi Clif,
I have a simular problem with may 1990 XJ-S. I know when mine is stuck on, I
can not engage my cruise control.
I tried lubing the brake pedal pivot points no help. I was going to adjust
the switch position, but it is in a hard place to get to so I am reluctant to
do it.
An other option is glue a piece of rubber onto the switch lever. This will
change the clearance between the brake pedal and the stop light switch, you
only need an 1/8 of an inch.
I can not get a illustration of the brake master cylinder to see what could be
stopping the push rod from comming all the way. Out weak spring?. I even
tried spraying oil onto the push rod to see if that helps. By the way the
push rod attaches to the brake pedal and the other end goes into the brake
master cylinder. My car has ABS braking.
This is all I know let me know how you make out.
Good Luck,
Connie
_______________________________________________________________________________
From: ata@netsrq.com on Thu, Dec 5, 1996 11:30 AM
Subject: XJS brake lights stay on
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Take my foot off the brake pedal, and the brake lights stay on.
Put my foot under the pedal and pull up, they go out, and stay out until
I hit a bump, or press them again.
Anyone know where an adjustment to the pedal travel or the switch is
that might be sticking?
Thanks
Cliff Sadler
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------------------------------
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 17:35:00 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: Upper Cylinder Lubrication
> It is my understanding that the main reason diesel engines last
> longer than gasoline engines is that diesel fuel itself (oil to you
> Brits) has far more lubricity than gasoline (petrol to you Aussies).
> Diesels are built much heavier, but that's because they have to be,
> it isn't necessarily what leads to durability. They also produce
> less power than gasoline engines of comparable size, which may
> contribute to durability -- but there are lots of people who never
> drive their gasoline engines hard, and they still don't last as long
> as diesel engines.
I would think that Diesel engines simply last longer because they turn
slower.
> Whatta you guys think? Would such additives be a BETTER investment
> than spending a lot of money on oil additives, filters, synthetic
> oil, etc., in terms of making one's engine last longer?
Changing fuel by adding additives might induce other problems. I guess if
there would be any chance to increase engine life, the big petrol companies
would already jumped on this train.
I simply change the oil on my XJ-S every 1000 miles, cost is about $ 10
for the filter and $ 22 for the oil (I use Castrol 20W50)
- - matthias
------------------------------
From: Charles Gaudi <cgaudi@phonetech.com>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 12:00:12 -0800
Subject: radiator swap
I have a spare radiator for my 1984 XJS HE. I suspect that the radiator
in my 1987 XJ-6 VDP is partialy clogged (runs about 100C at highway
speeds then cools down in the city). Can I have the spare xjs radiator
rodded and put it in my 87 xj-6? Is it the same radiator?
------------------------------
From: Michael Neal <mneal@wco.com>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 09:00:32 -0800
Subject: Re: XJ40 Hydraulics
At 10:38 PM 12/4/96 -0500, Randy Wilson wrote:
>>
>>
>>Without shimming, the original springs will NOT work, the car rides a
>>couple inches too low. I developed a kit, a year before Jag offered one,
>>from Jag parts that allowed the original springs to be used. Basically I
>>used the lower spring cup and flipped the gold cad plated piece over. This
>>caused the car to have a ride similar to the rear of an XJR. Any
>
>
>I checked springs today. Both a set of old hydro ones (red/white) and
>the new kilt style (blue/white). Both springs are 5.5" diameter, and have
>four active coils. The big difference is in the wire diameter. The old ones
>are 0.618", and the new ones are 0.688". If I remember my linear coil
>spring rate formula correctly (my good book is at work), in this particular
>case all of the variables except the wire size are the same, i.e. constants.
>In the formula, the wire diameter is raised to the fourth power. This
>would suggest the new springs are around 50% stiffer.
>
>
>
>>motorcycle enthusiast knows that dialing in more spring preload increases
>>the stiffness of the ride<g>.
>
>
>How do you dial in more "preload"? A spring with a given weight on it while
>compress to a certain calculable length. There by, the upper size seat will
>be that amount above the lower seat. If you raise one spring seat, either by
>threaded perches or by flipping the cup over, the other seat will move up
>the same distance.
How do you figure. The upper perch is not touched, the lower one is raised
an inch or two.
If the weight carried remains constant, this distance will
>remain constant, until you hit some mechanical limit, such as a droop stop.
>The only way to change the load on a spring is to change the weight it is
>carrying.
>
>
>
>
>
> Randy K. Wilson
> randy@taylor.infi.net
>
>
>
------------------------------
From: blkcat@juno.com (Bill Kroeger)
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 12:23:38 EST
Subject: Re: Interior lights delay Reply
Hi All,
Our 1985 XJ6 does not have the delay for the lights.
A Question though. Is there a way to have it so the headlights have a
delay and shut off automatically?
Bill & Lori Kroeger
1985 XJ6
E-Mail blkcat@juno.com
------------------------------
From: Michael Neal <mneal@wco.com>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 09:14:15 -0800
Subject: Re: XJ40 - Check engine?
Code 3 is the coolant temp sensor for the fuel injection. You might as
well replace it instead of checking it, they are only $20. It is located
on the thermostat housing and has a two wire connector. It can be a bad
connection but is probably the sensor.
At 09:45 AM 12/5/96, Michael Powers/TEIR/Thomson wrote:
>>
>>
>>While driving my 89 XJ40 into work today, the amber VCM "check engine"
light
>>came on (along
>>with that huge Exclamation Point on the display).
>>
>>So where does one start looking for a cause? The car is driving fine,
>although
>
>Looks like it is a Check Engine - 3. Any Ideas??
>
>Also, on the drive home yesterday, it did not light up. On the way into
work
>this morning, it appeared after about 10 minutes of driving.
>Knowing Jaguar's robust electronics, maybe it only comes on when I'm driving
>North?? ;-)
>
>Thanks again,
>
>Mike
>
>
>
------------------------------
From: "Donald R. Farr" <d.farr@phx.cox.com>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 10:32:35 -0700
Subject: Tyres or Tires (whichever you prefer)
My 91 Sovereign cat needs a new set of paws and I'm curious what
other owners have done as options to the Pirelli 205/70 VR 15's that
came on the car.
My cat has 48,000 miles on it and has gone through 2.5 sets of paws
in that time (less than 20,000 miles per tire).
Are there other options?
- --
Donald R. Farr
President
National Consulting Services
6719 North 58th Place
Paradise Valley, AZ 85253
(602) 998-3919 - voice
(602) 948-7499 - fax
91 Sovereign
d.farr@phx.cox.com - e-mail
http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/dfarr.htm - Homepage
http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/7000.htm - Jetta Notebook Computers
http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/march10.htm - Wireless products
http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/ncs1.htm - National Consulting Services
------------------------------
From: "William R. Frenchu" <wrf@pluto.njcc.com>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 13:26:09 -0500
Subject: virtual clubs
I spent some time looking around on the web today for Jaguar Clubs
that might have a home page... boy, if they're out there, they're
hiding pretty well! I only managed to find a couple of different ones.
I wasn't looking so much for commercial info, but rather for
collector's, owner's or driver's clubs. I found several references
to shows, concours, etc., being sponsored by clubs, but it didn't
seem as though the clubs themselves had pages.
I'd like to compile a list of them on my web page... if anyone
has one they'd like to include, whether regional, national or
international, please email me at: wrf@pluto.njcc.com.
=====================================================================
Bill Frenchu |"Back when *I* was a
wrf@pluto.njcc.com (609) 466-2604 | boy, we carved our
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/wrf | own IC's out of wood."
=====================================================================
------------------------------
From: bsawyer@mint.net (Bruce Sawyer)
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 13:30:13 -0500
Subject: XJ6 SIII low water light
I decided to give my cat an early x-mas gift... new water pump and hoses to
help it through our Maine winter weather. However, the low water light
comes on for the first 10 miles of so of travel first thing in the morning
then it goes off. After sitting at the office for the day the light stays
off for the ride home. Have checked the water level and it appears ok. No
leaks, runs or smells. Any Ideas? Thanks in advance for any light you can
shed on the problem.
------------------------------
From: Richard Griffiths <73564.2101@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 05 Dec 96 13:41:48 EST
Subject: Re, Wheres the HP?
John Napoli wrote;
>>>Having started the thread, I don't know that we came to any conclusions,
just agreement that these motors should be capable of a whole lot more. I
wonder if their low output is due to a bunch of little things , or if one
or two fundamental deficiencies could be addressed to pump 'em up.<<<
I saw an SIII-E recently that had been converted to give 425 hp. as I recall
mods include the following;
More displacement -( still no substitute for ci's apparently ! )
Modified manifolds to fit Motronic thottle bodies and PC programable EFI
whatever that does.
Higher compression, ported and polished inlet.
Exhaust headers 3 into 2 both sides. No catalitic convs. Car was destined for
Florida so either they dont have catalysts or the cars age did not require them.
Seems like adding 50 hp with only minor mods is not too difficult. This might be
enough for my 255 hp XJS-C, Chad Bolles has offered info on this, e.g. induction
system and exhaust mods only. For anything greater than this looks like more
displacement and comp. ratio changes are also required, at lots more cost.
With the new smog laws out west a car can fail by under hood inspection only
regardless of how clean the exh. is, if a some widget or other is missing or
modified, so might end up with only a garage queen to look at !
I,ve decided to shelve the idea for now, maybe I'll pick up a 6 liter model
when they are affordable.
Cheers
Richard
86XJS and XJ6
------------------------------
From: Aaron Burnett <aaron.burnett@attws.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 11:00:42 -0800
Subject: FW: XJ-S: Rough Running
XJ-S Owners and other knowledgeable folk -- Please Help!!
As you can read below, I'm in a bit of a muddle with my TPS. Kirby's
XJ-S Help Book (and several list experts) indicate that a properly
functioning TPS should return a voltage of .32-.38V at idle. But mine
returns 5 VOLTS!.
I have checked, re-checked and then double-checked the readings (using
two different meters). I also have dis-assembled and cleaned the TPS.
What I have found makes no sense to me:
When checking impedance with my ohmmeter (using the 2K scale, with the
TPS disconnected), I get the following readings:
red to green wires = 3.67 @ idle full throttle = .78
red to yellow wires = .06 @ idle full throttle = 3.67
green to yellow wires = 3.61 @ idle full throttle = 3.61
I have used a high quality meter to assure that the change in resistance
as the throttle is rotated is smooth - there are no breaks in the
contacts.
HERE IS THE STRANGE PART!!
With the TPS installed and the ignition on, voltage readings @ idle from
red to green wires = 5V (I can adjust the TPS and achieve 4.35V). This,
of course, is very odd as the reading is expected to be .32-.38V.
Now it gets interesting -- when I rotate the TPS to full throttle, the
voltage decreases to approximately .38V -- exactly the reading I should
get @ idle!! My TPS appears to be working in an inverse manner! This
means a rich mixture @ idle and a lean mixture at WOT.
I checked the supply voltage to the TPS and found it to be 5V, which
makes sense as the peak output for the TPS should be about 5V (supplied
when impedance through the TPS is minimal).
I can't really understand how the voltage can be decreasing as I rotate
the TPS, because impedance through the critical path (red & green wires)
is greatest at idle and decreases as throttle rotation increases.
Before testing actual voltage output, I would have assumed that voltage
returned would be least when impedance is greatest (at idle), and
greatest when impedance is least (wide open throttle).
To sum it up, this really doesn't make sense to me. Is it possible that
any other XJ-S owners can test the voltage output from their TPS and
post their results? This would be most helpful in terms of comparison
and could assist me in understanding my car's function. All that is
required is to:
1) start the car and let it idle
2) separate the three-prong plug where the TPS connects to the wiring
harness just enough to insert the probes from your meter
3) contact one probe to the bullet on the red wire and one probe to the
bullet on the green wire and record the voltage reading @ idle
All help is greatly appreciated. I have taken the TPS apart and can't
really understand how it might return the results I have gotten. So
until I understand the situation a bit better, I am extremely reluctant
to spend $150 on a new TPS just for the sake of experimentation.
Thanks in advance
Aaron
'85 XJ-S
> >snip
>
>I have forwarded the original message below as background to my current
>situation. But to recap, I am trying to track down the source of a
>rough idle in my '85 XJ-S.
>
>So today I checked the TPS and engine compression. While checking the
>TPS with an ohmmeter, I found the internal contacts seem to be intact --
>the needle on the meter moved smoothly as I rotated the TPS. However, I
>also found that the TPS showed 5 volts at idle -- substantially
>different than the 3.2V - 3.8V I was expecting. I attempted to adjust
>the TPS in the manner outlined in Kirby's book, but found that the
>minimum figure I could attain was 4.35V. The TPS could not be turned
>further on the three small mounting screws that hold it. Any ideas why
>I might get this kind of reading? Any suggestions as to how to rectify
>the situation? Might this mean I DO have a bad TPS?
>
>
>
------------------------------
From: "Claus, Mike" <claus@wg.com>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 96 15:27:53 EST
Subject: XJ-S Oil Pressure
I know there was a thread about oil pressure just a little
while ago, but at the time I didn't need to know so I ignored
most of it.
Anyway, today my XJ-S started indicated substantially
increased oil pressure. Ordinarily the gauge runs at about 6
when driving, and drops to about 4.5-5 at idle. Today,
suddenly, it started showing about 6.5-7, regardless of
weather it is at idle or driving.
Anybody have any clues? I don't think the gauge is stuck,
since is does vary a little bit with speed, and it drops to 0
when the car is turned off.
Looking forward to hearing your ideas
- mclaus ('93 XJ-S Convertible)
------------------------------
From: Sergey Leonidov <74262.724@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 05 Dec 96 15:26:52 EST
Subject: Re: virtual clubs
Why don't you make one yourself? I am sure you can collect enough info from
this list alone to make a very useful page. Then you list it with the web
search engines and just watch you access counter click.
Sergey Leonidov
------------------------------
From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 15:36:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Upper Cylinder Lubrication
Continuing the fuel additives/upper engine lube thread:
(Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR) writes:
<< Changing fuel by adding additives might induce other problems. I guess if
there would be any chance to increase engine life, the big petrol companies
would already jumped on this train. >>
On the other hand, there must be a strong desire on the part of the big automotive mfrs. to limit engine life to that of the car. Everything is pretty much geared up to induce us all change to a new car at about 100,000 miles here in the US. We have all been indoctrinated to believe that a new car is necessary at this point. Adding extra stuff to the gasoline when people get rid of the car at a certain mileage anyway simply adds extra expense. Having no data to support this theory, I would contend that most generic (note: not Jaguars) cars go to the boneyard with engines that still run fine. They usually die from: 1) rust, 2) being banged up, 3) because even cheap repairs are not worth it for a car of such small market value 4) or simply that nobody wants them anymore Therfore, adding lubricants to prolong engine life in a generic car probably makes no sense, but for a collectible, long life car such as a Jag, I think it makes a lot of sense (provided no other ill-effects). Julian Mullaney From: Cliff Sadler <ata@netsrq.com> Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 15:36:46 -0500 Subject: Re: XJ6 SIII low water light Bruce Sawyer wrote:
>
> I decided to give my cat an early x-mas gift... new water pump and hoses to
> help it through our Maine winter weather. However, the low water light
> comes on for the first 10 miles of so of travel first thing in the morning
> then it goes off. After sitting at the office for the day the light stays
> off for the ride home. Have checked the water level and it appears ok. No
> leaks, runs or smells. Any Ideas? Thanks in advance for any light you can
> shed on the problem.
Check the ground wire cluster coming out of the harness near the left
hand side headlamp. It is grounded on the radiator cover, near the gas
strut that holds the "bonnnet" open. A bad ground will cause this light
to go on.
------------------------------
From: John Setters <john_setters@eagle.co.nz>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 09:44:23 +1300
Subject: RE: Volunteers again
Maybe Geocities.com would be a starting point.
Check them out, it's automatic, simple and free
******************************************************
John Setters
Desktop Mapping Consultant
Eagle Technology Group Ltd
110 Symonds Street
Auckland
New Zealand
Ph +64 +09 300 3400 Fax +64 +09 300 3420
Email john_setters@eagle.co.nz
http://www.eagle.co.nz
******************************************************
>----------
>From: Kirbert[SMTP:palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu]
>Sent: Thursday, 5 December 1996 02:32
>To: jag-lovers@sn.no
>Subject: re: Volunteers again
>
>Michael Frank:
>> 1. I will do some reviews, if a home can be found.
>
>All right, everybody, Michael has volunteered to provide info on
>Jaguar books if someone will provide a WWW site to post it on. Any
>takers?
>
>Reply to him, please. He's at:
>
> mfrank@westnet.com
>
> -- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
> | some rules must be broken.
> | - Palm's Postulate
>
------------------------------
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #568
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X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest
jag-lovers-digest Friday, 6 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 569
postcards????
XJ-S Hood Bulges
Re: US windshields (XJ-S)
Jaguar XK-E Hearse (fwd)
Re: postcards????
XJ-S Oil Pressure
Re: Upper Cylinder Lubrication
Re: Re: interior lights, SIII XJ6
"How I Found My Jag"
How *HE* found his jag
CHristmas
Re: XJ-S Hood Bulges
XJ6 SIII low water light
Re: Upper Cylinder Lubrication
Re: Zenith Stromberg 175 cd-2-- Replacement Options?
Re: Upper Cylinder Lube - Diesel Jags,
Re: Volt Meter -- How does it work? 83 XJ6
Re: interior lights, SIII XJ6
Fwd:
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 16:45:24 -0500
Subject: postcards????
What is this post card stuff about????
Is anyone else getting notices about postcards with acceptance numbers?
Julian Mullaney
------------------------------
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 15:46:21 -0600 (CST)
Subject: XJ-S Hood Bulges
I just had an idea. Would it improve the cooling of a V12 if you swapped
the hoods to a bulged hood and opened up the front of the bulge as an air scoop?
JIM I.
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas."
Gen. Emiliano Zapata
1879-1919
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
From: John Goodman <101547.1141@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 05 Dec 96 16:52:01 EST
Subject: Re: US windshields (XJ-S)
Michael,
>> I had mine replaced last year after an encounter with a rock from a
nasty big truck. I was shocked and surprised to find it had the
top
tint. Its Okay, .... But is it authentic...???<<
I think it appears to be an option on aftermarket windshields in the US,
I hope the same applies here in the UK.
Do you have any problems with night time driving and the view of
overhead motorway road signs ???
I ask this because I get this problem with the windshield of my
campervan, but the seat is higher and the top of the screen is quite
low.
John Goodman
'89 XJR-S 6.0L
------------------------------
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 23:09:46 +0100
Subject: Jaguar XK-E Hearse (fwd)
Can anyone give this guy any tips?
Nick
- -------- Forwarded message --------
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 17:04:15 -0500
From: JoBall@aol.com
To: nick@sn.no
Subject: Jaguar XK-E Hearse
I'm trying to find information and/or pictures of the XK-E hearse featured in
the movie Harold and Maude. I'd really like pictures of the conversion in
progress, but would settle for movie stills. I'm a car modeler and would
like to build a model of this unique hearse. I'd appreciate any leads you
might give me. Thanks for your help.
Joe
------------------------------
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 23:10:47 +0100
Subject: Re: postcards????
[ Juliansean@aol.com ]
| What is this post card stuff about????
| Is anyone else getting notices about postcards with acceptance numbers?
It's a gimmick at the new Jaguar Cars Ltd web-site, and a
damned irritating one too. Please guys, once is enough.
Nick
------------------------------
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 16:21:12 -0600 (CST)
Subject: XJ-S Oil Pressure
>
>
> Anybody have any clues? I don't think the gauge is stuck,
> since is does vary a little bit with speed, and it drops to 0
> when the car is turned off.
Yes, your presure sender has gone south. Get a new one. The wire inside
the sender has probably come loose and is tangled about the wiper. Its NOT
repairable if your time is worth more than 50 cents an hour.
JIM I.
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas."
Gen. Emiliano Zapata
1879-1919
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
From: Ned Blagojevic <nbx@ansto.gov.au>
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 09:33:35 +1100
Subject: Re: Upper Cylinder Lubrication
>3) Two-cycle oil.
I have an old Holden (202 ci, 6 cylinder) which is currently running very
well. From time to time I experimented with two-cycle oil by adding about
1L to a tank full of gas. This is about 1:65 ratio (two-cycle engines take
about 1:25 or 1:40). My reasoning was that I don't really want too much oil
in the petrol, but would like to lubricate the valves and upper cylinder as
Kirbert suggested.
I have no conclusion to this experiment because:
a. I only did this a few times and
b. this requires to be a long term controlled experiment.
However, I can say that there was no loss in performance by adding the
oil, or was there any visible signs that oil was present in the petrol.
Therefore, I don't see any reason why someone should not be able to
experiment with this.
>I would presume it'd probably be a bad idea to have any of these
>things in the tank when taking an emissions test. Also, I dunno what
>the effect would be on catalytic convertors. When burned, do all
>these things end up looking just like any other exhaust? Or will
>they crud up the convertor?
It would more then likely lead to increased levels of hydrocarbons in the
exhaust and therefore in time overwhelm the converter. For the older cars
with no converters this should not be a problem
>It seems to me that any of these additives would probably be an
>improvement in lubrication over nothing. The two-cycle oil could be
>mixed far weaker than it is for two-cycle engines, since any amount
>is a benefit, and we clearly wouldn't need as much as a two-cycle
>engine needs.
My reasoning exactly, especially on startup time when lubrication in the
cylinders is most required.
>Whatta you guys think? Would such additives be a BETTER investment
>than spending a lot of money on oil additives, filters, synthetic
>oil, etc., in terms of making one's engine last longer?
No, this will only help the very upper reaches of the cylinders and valve seats.
Ned
,61 Mk2
Ned Blagojevic
Environmental Science Division
Australian Nuclear Science Organisation
PMB 1 Menai, NSW 2234
Australia
email: nbx@ansto.gov.au
phone (w)++61-2-717-3660
fax ++61-2-717-9260
------------------------------
From: Thorsten_Ploss@magicvillage.de (Thorsten Ploss)
Date: 05 Dec 1996 19:36:39 GMT
Subject: Re: Re: interior lights, SIII XJ6
thanks for your reply...
Thorsten
------------------------------
From: charles daly <cdaly@passport.ca>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 18:50:58 -0500
Subject: "How I Found My Jag"
Bob wrote,
Back in July of this year, I decided that I would like to have a Jag. I
looked in the newspaper, saw a car that sounded nice, called the owner,
drove it around the block, wrote him a check, drove it home.
Thank you!
I agree!
(not continued!)
Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
'62 E-Type, ots, flat floor.
-------------------------------------------------------------
"Laugh? I thought I'd die!"
A. Boleyn
-------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
From: charles daly <cdaly@passport.ca>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 18:54:14 -0500
Subject: How *HE* found his jag
Gee, I'm biting my nails!
I bet he pays for the jag,
is handed the keys...
and falls down a man-hole
never to be seen...
or heard from...
again.
Stay tuned.
Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
'62 E-Type, ots, flat floor.
-------------------------------------------------------------
"Laugh? I thought I'd die!"
A. Boleyn
-------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
From: dneufeld@sanac.usiu.edu
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 14:53:10 -0800
Subject: CHristmas
Just in case anyone is feeling particularly santa clausy, does anyone have
any classy wallpaper or screen saver that is truly Jaguaree that they would
be willing to share or could point one to of an http nature - just thot I'd
ask Thanks Don
------------------------------
From: "Jim Cantrell" <jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 17:05:55 MDT
Subject: Re: XJ-S Hood Bulges
Jim Isbell wrote:
> I just had an idea. Would it improve the cooling of a V12 if you swapped
> the hoods to a bulged hood and opened up the front of the bulge as an air scoop?
In thinking about this issue, I would be skeptical of this remedy to
the cooling of the V12. Presuming that the problem at high speeds is
inadequate airflow, a scoop in the ram direction would increase the
underhood pressure relative to the grill pressure. I would then
imagine that the net airflow through the radiator would decrease.
Louvers, on the other hand, would tend to decrease the underhood
pressure. This would be due to a combined effect from simple venting
in addition to enhanced through the louvers by the creation of a low
pressure region immediately behind the louver openings. That's one
of the principle reasons louver openings point in the anti-ram
direction - to ventilate more efficiently.
Kind Regards,
Jim Cantrell
------------------------------
From: Lu Magdaleno <lm@pacificnet.net>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 16:16:57 -0800
Subject: XJ6 SIII low water light
There is a connection for the low water light at the base of the header
filler tank. That's the very expensive plastic container used to fill
the vehicle with coolant. The connection is located underneath two hoses
on the end closest to the front of the vehicle and is not readily
visible. I just replaced the tank and experienced the same problem you
describe. I unplugged the connection, cleaned it, and reattached it
securely. Light went out, problem solved.
Luis
- --
Luis Magdaleno, Attorney at Law
Gatekeeper to BUYERS' HEAVEN http://www.bheaven.com/bheaven/
If you appreciate BARGAINS or are a merchant looking for SALES.
FREE WANT ADS for consumers, 100s of buyers for merchants.
------------------------------
From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 19:16:07 -0600
Subject: Re: Upper Cylinder Lubrication
I think there are two primary reasons diesel engines last longer.
1. They are generally of significantly more robust construction.
2. They usually operate in a significantly narrower (and lower) rpm range
than their gasoline counterparts.
One of the best examples that probably demonstrates diesel longevity is not
related to upper cylinder lubrication is the ill-fated Oldsmobile diesel.
Those engines were basically converted gasoline engines that lacked the
extra strength typically found in a diesel and were operated in conjunction
with the same transmission and rear axle ratios (hence the same rpm range)
as the gasoline models. They didn't hold up any better then the gasoline
versions.
With the improvements in valve, valve seat, piston and ring materials over
the past decade or so there is no reason a typical passenger car engine
can't run several hundred thousand miles with no internal maintenance. My
wife's Honda now has 350,000 miles on it. The head has never been off, and
the only engine maintenance I would consider outside the bounds of routine
is the replacement of the distributor due to excessive wear to the shaft
bushings.
Twenty-five or thirty years ago valve jobs were practically standard on any
car by the time it got to 100,000 miles (if that far.) But many of those
valve jobs were caused by lead deposits that don't accumulate with unleaded
fuel or by valve seat erosion that doesn't happen with modern materials.
Oil consumption / smoking due to valve guide wear was another common cause
of valve jobs that is less common due to improved materials. Badly worn or
broken rings are also very rare compared to what they were in the past. I
suspect that most major engine maintenance these days is caused by neglect.
Little problems, especially overheating tendencies, that are allowed to
fester until significant engine damage occurs.
I feel pretty sure that any modern engine that receives regular oil and
filter changes at intervals of 7500 miles or less, receives reasonable care
(tune-ups, etc) and that has problems attended to promptly, is very likely
to go a minimum of 250,000 miles without need for internal repairs.
MikeC
------------------------------
From: Jeffrey Gram <101454.2570@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 05 Dec 96 19:32:19 EST
Subject: Re: Zenith Stromberg 175 cd-2-- Replacement Options?
Curt Onscott,
at first I didn't remember if you had a V12 with 4 strombergs or a XJ6 with 2,
and I thought I had seen a V12 with other than Stromberg Carbs, but actually I
cant find any description of
other carbs on the V12. But since you have an XJ6 ( I read your note again....)
you can bolt up a set of HS6's or HD6's,or HD8's or HS8's . It would be some
trouble to get it to work, but surely possible iuring a long winter :-). You
possibly need another manifold too. While you are at it, go all the way and get
a triple Carb set HD8.
Burlen Fuel system can ship you a brand new set - at a price of about 2300 $
Otherwise there is the injected way - This also requires a long winter and a
good chunk of money and research to find the parts, but the advantages are
obvious.
Regards Jeffrey Gram
------------------------------
From: Jeffrey Gram <101454.2570@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 05 Dec 96 19:32:13 EST
Subject: Re: Upper Cylinder Lube - Diesel Jags,
Kirby,
Nice and amusing thoughts on Diesel engines. So why did Sir Lyons, never make a
Diesel-Jag ? Hmmm, actually why not ?
The V12 is a strong engine, skim 5 mm off the HE head, special pistons and
fiddling the ECU a bit and hey Presto, Jeffs 12 Cylinder Diesel is born. No
kidding, this could be a a possible project.
But on Diesels in General, they do last longer because they are built stronger,
and petrol engines do not generally "wash the oils away" and furthermore Diesel
is not a lubricant, it is a solvent !!!
About the marvel and snake oils - no I'm not getting into that.....
You're right ! a damn bad Idea to put oil in the petrol, cruds up everything on
the way out in the exhaust system. Oil may lubricate when it is not burned, but
as soon as the flame front comes that lube is a gonner !
Oil additives ( of the "magic" after market type) - NO
Filters changed often and synthetics in the sump - Yes,
and :
- - no load when cold, dont drive short trips (ESPECIALLY not with the V12), Don't
ever accelerate even moderately in a cold Jag, - THEN the Cylinders will be
Washed.
- -Buy a winter heater system,
- -Lots of maintenance,
Now WHO get there first with a V12 Diesel Jag ?
Regards Jeffrey Gram
------------------------------
From: Jeffrey Gram <101454.2570@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 05 Dec 96 19:32:25 EST
Subject: Re: Volt Meter -- How does it work? 83 XJ6
Hi Kyle,
>Thanks for your reply to my query about how the volt meter works. I =
>would like to ask a follow-up if I may. What bugs me about the volt =
>meter is that the movement is slow and gradual until the needle is at 13 =
>then it doesn't budge regardless of what is happening. It's as if I =
>might as well have an alternator light and a gauge with the needle glued =
>at 13. Shouldn't there be some movement as loads change?
I agree fully with you, the slowness and delay of the Jag voltmeter annoys me
too.
Electronically it is possible to delay the action, but probably the delay is
caused by a capacitor which sits in the circuit with a resistor. I have not
opened mine yet, but if there is a capacitor in there an alternative is to
reduce the value to one quarter or one tenth, or disconnect it completely.
No guarantees....
Regards Jeffrey
------------------------------
From: "Peter Morris" <pmorris@tfb.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 17:07:49 8
Subject: Re: interior lights, SIII XJ6
On 4 Dec 96 at 16:37, Gregory W. Price wrote:
> My '85 XJ6 VdP does not have an interior light delay feature.
Nor does my '86 Sovereign.
Regards,
Peter Morris
------------------------------
From: albrecht@ix.netcom.com (John M. Albrecht)
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 17:13:50 -0800
Subject: Fwd:
John Albrecht
albrecht@ix.netcom.com
1984 XJ6
I'm not sure if I should have broken these up into different items
but this is my first append. My apology in advance if I broke
any conventions. I'll learn. This group is great!
Below are some problem areas that have plagued me
(and several mechanics) for awhile, and some other
stuff. Comments appreciated.
HINTS:
1) IGNITION SWITCH reliability (mine wasn't). You
may want to feel for hot-spots yourself even if
your switch is working fine at the moment. I have
found hot-spots and carbonization on jaguar
connectors a common and disturbing problem.
Check switch wiring where wires connect to the
switch itself. Look for signs of burning/carbon.
Feel back of switch while car is running and soon
after turning over the starter motor (Careful...I
got burned when I first did this). If too hot to
touch and hold, you may have a problem. The fix
is to completely refurbish the ignition switch
contacts (requires disassembly...I think I used a
small drill and grinder), re-do the connections,
clean-out the carbon, and fortify the enclosure (I
used some epoxy and plastic tie-strips to tighten
and strengthen the assembly). As I recall, I also
had to use a high-speed hand grinding tool to
reshape and 'create' one of the internal contact
points. Been working great for over 2 years now.
The key is to ensure the connections are
rock-solid and the internal contacts provide a
very low-resistance.
I had built a wiring/switch assembly whereby I can
unplug the key switch from the harness and connect
my assembly for emergency use. I built it because
there had been a few times when my ignition switch
didn't work unless I turned the key "just right".
This saved me considerable time and discomfort
when my ignition switch finally died (before I
fixed it) in 5 degF weather in a little town about
80 miles from home in the middle of nowhere.
Plug-in tFrom: albrecht@ix.netcom.com(John M. Albrecht)
Subject: Fwd:
To: Jag-lovers@sn.no
John Albrecht
albrecht@ix.netcom.com
1984 XJ6
I'm not sure if I should have broken these up into different items
but this is my first append. My apology in advance if I broke
any conventions. I'll learn. This group is great!
Below are some problem areas that have plagued me
(and several mechanics) for awhile, and some other
stuff. Comments appreciated.
HINTS:
1) IGNITION SWITCH reliability (mine wasn't). You
may want to feel for hot-spots yourself even if
your switch is working fine at the moment. I have
found hot-spots and carbonization on jaguar
connectors a common and disturbing problem.
Check switch wiring where wires connect to the
sw brighter. I tested
for 9 hrs with no melted
or even soft lenses)
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
CURRENT PROBLEMS:
3) Have minor air-flow CONSTANTLY through all
vents (except center when flap closed). Appears
to be outside air, and after car has been
running awhile is fairly warm...even if the air
conditioning has been running. Even when A/C or
HEAT are OFF, I get a constant light flow of
air. Have been unable to locate source of
incoming air. Is there an inlet "fresh air"
port that I can easily check? Or does this
indicate something worse. This started a few
months ago. Vacuum checks OK.
4) This has almost gotten me killed, so I'm fairly
concerned about this one. When the auto is
first started (even on warm days), acceleration
is fine until at 2800RPM the engine lugs
suddenly and SUBSTANTIALLY. Doesn't matter
whether it's 30 or 90 degF outside. Everything
is fine until that point. When it occurs, I
have to ease-back a bit, accelerate a lot more
slowly for awhile, and after another minute or
two, the problem goes away until the next
cold-start.he substitute assembly, use the correct
switch sequencing, and I'm on my way. It didn't
matter that the ignition switch was a carbonized
mass of melted connections. Total cost of the
substitute was about $5.
I can only wonder what the man at the quick-stop
gas station thought as he watched me 'hot-wire'
a jaguar.
2) RECENT PARTS SUBSTITUTION/SOURCING INFO (AS OF
11/96, for 84 XJ6) Parts/prices are from an
Autozone Store in Texas.
a) fuel filter FF761 Autozone $10 US
b) oil filter D439 Deutsch $ 3 US
(claims exceptional filtering)
c) O2 sensor 11035 Bosch $29 US
(connector needs to be changed)
d) Side inside GE211-2 $ 2 US (plus, they are a LOT
courtesy lights brighter. I tested
for 9 hrs with no melted
or even soft lenses)
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
CURRENT PROBLEMS:
3) Have minor air-flow CONSTANTLY through all
vents (except center when flap closed). Appears
to be outside air, and after car has been
running awhile is fairly warm...even if the air
conditioning has been running. Even when A/C or
HEAT are OFF, I get a constant light flow of
air. Have been unable to locate source of
incoming air. Is there an inlet "fresh air"
port that I can easily check? Or does this
indicate something worse. This started a few
months ago. Vacuum chright track
or is there something else I should be looking
for here? If I keep using the sunroof, this
'scratch' in the fabric will grow worse. I've
tried fabricating a clip that might help reduce
this problem, but am unsuccessful to date.
8) When driving down highway, have a VERY slight
tendency to drift to the left. Got 4 new
Michelin XW4 tires (love 'em): problem remains.
Not a control problem...it is VERY minimal and I
can even take my hands off the wheel for awhile
on straight roads...but it eventually starts to
drift left. Alignment shops (2) both say
alignment is darn near perfect...they couldn't
get it any better. A concern is that this could
reduce tire lifetime. One alignment center says
no problem, except says that since there is a
little more pronounced left drift when the
brakes are applied, they should replace the left
brake fluid hose. I don't see how that relates
to this type of problem. They didn't see
anything wrong with the brakes/calipers/etc.
Comments?
- --------------------------------------------------------------
QUERIES:
9) Synthetic oil info: I've looked at various
synthetics and have some questions. The ratings
I've seen are "SH, SG, SJ, and CF". Which are
"okay" for use in an XJ6 4.2? Any experience
with engine temperature changes when using
synthetics vs. regular oil?
The reason these are of interest is that one
person indicated he has been able to eliminate
"routine" oil leakage by switching to a
synthetic.
Any thoughts on using synthetic "blends" vs.
"pure" synthetics?
10) Owner's manual says to NEVER rotate the tires,
even front-to-back. Is that right?
WHEREIS/WHATIS:
11) Are there any "spare" wires between the trunk
and the passenger compartment? Basically, I
want to wire-in my trunk open switch (the light)
with an alarm unit without running additional
wires. Currently does not seem possible.
12) Is there a lubrication point for the A/C and
heater flap control motor and gears? I can't
find anything obvious, and am leary of just
squirting some dead dinosaurs into the
assembly. There is OBVIOUS friction developing
in these controls.
13) WHAT ARE THESE? (These are ALL in the trunk,
mounted to the vertical partition between the
trunk and the rear passenger compartment)
a) SMALL CYLINDER attached to ECU in trunk. ECU
is DAC2806, Approximately 8x10 inches next to
right "cowbell". There is a small cylinder
about 2" long and 1" diameter. 2 red wires at
the bottom, and a brass tube at the top. The
tube is threaded internally, but nothing is
screwed-in to it. What is the cylinder and what
does it do?
b) GREY METAL BOX (under left "cowbell" in trunk).
It is about 3"x3". It has a 3 connector socket
of Black, Yellow, Black/Whitestripe, and a
single Green wire as a separate connector. It
appears to have a "reset" plunger. Appears to
have some sort of DC motor. I'm pretty sure this
is an "elapsed-run-time" indicator used for O2
sensor service. My speculation is that the
motor runs whenever the engine is on, and after
a set number of rotations enables the "O2
sensor" service light. THIS IS JUST A GUESS!
Anyone know for sure? In other words, I deduce
the O2 end-of-life sensor is totally independent
of the speedo/trip computer/mpg sender. The O2
sensor service-life is a function of engine
run-time and not mileage? (every mention of it
indicates it's based on miles, but I'm thinking
it really isn't).
c) BLACK PLASTIC BOX about 3"x3", located below
sunroof motor, near right cowbell. It has a 4
position connector ( orange, Yellow/Green,
Black, Green). The connector harness "T's" into
a harness that goes back toward the antenna and
forward through the passenger/trunk wall. It is
labeled LUCAS 7EM (symbol) 73215A, DAC2586. The
(symbol) is a "Y" inside a circle.
14) Where's the fuel flow sensor? Is there one?
I've not seen one in any of the fuel-system
diagrams. I've read some stuff that suggests
fuel flow may be "measured" by taking a signal
from the ECU that drives a specific fuel
injector...quantity of fuel used is then
computed, rather than measured. I'm used to
seeing a separate in-fuel-line sensor that
rotates x-revolutions per gallon (kind of like a
mechanical speedometer.
15) Is there an after-market driver's side air-bag
for an 84 XJ6 jaguar?
------------------------------
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #569
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X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest
jag-lovers-digest Friday, 6 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 570
Re: How *HE* found his jag
Mixing favortites
Re: radiator swap
Previous append
Re: FW: XJ-S: Rough Running
Re: Mixing favortites
Re: postcards????
Re: XJ40 Hydraulics
to buy or not to buy
Re: Fwd:
Re: FW: XJ-S: Rough Running
Re: FW: XJ-S: Rough Running
Re: 82XJ6S3 header tank filler leak
Re: XJ40 Hydraulics
I finally saw an XK-8
Re: Mixing favortites
Re: Mixing favortites
Re: postcards????
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Paul Brand <paulbr@atiaust.com.au>
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 12:23:51 +1100
Subject: Re: How *HE* found his jag
Nah,
I bet he gets handed the keys and
then wakes and realises that
it was all a dream..!!
At 06:54 PM 12/5/96 -0500, you wrote:
>Gee, I'm biting my nails!
>I bet he pays for the jag,
>is handed the keys...
>and falls down a man-hole
>never to be seen...
>or heard from...
>again.
>Stay tuned.
>
>Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
>'62 E-Type, ots, flat floor.
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------
> "Laugh? I thought I'd die!"
> A. Boleyn
> -------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
Cheers
Paul.
_\|/_
(-O-O-)
--------------------------ooO--(_)--Ooo-------------------------------
------------------------------
From: Michael Frank <mfrank@westnet.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 20:41:01 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Mixing favortites
All:
As some of you know, I have both a Toyota Supra and a Jaguar E-Type. The
Supra, my daily car, is getting a bit long in the tooth. It is showing an
appetite for oil which makes the Jag look 'dry', and otherwise showing signs
of a tired engine.
For some time, I have been thinking about salvaging the Toyota transmission
and using a Dellows kit to install it in the Jag. Tonight, another plan has
come to mind.
A friend of mine has a spare 4.2 XK engine. I think it is a fuelie. If I get
the Dellows kit .....could I drop the XK engine into the Supra? Anyone tried
anything like this?
Does anyone have the physical dimensions of the XK and 7M-GE engines handy ?
Mike Frank
1968 E-Type
1988 Supra NT
------------------------------
From: Jan Wikstroem <Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au>
Date: 6 Dec 96 10:06:30 EDT
Subject: Re: radiator swap
No, sorry, they're quite different. just have the XJ6 radiator rodded; it won't
take long if you take it out and install it yourself.
- -Jan
------------------------------
From: albrecht@ix.netcom.com (John M. Albrecht)
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 17:57:47 -0800
Subject: Previous append
Obviously, I should have broken the note up into smaller pieces.
Apparently NETCOM's mail-handler isn't handling notes properly.
It's definitely not handling my incoming mail properly.
There were numerous sequence and format errors in my note as it
appeared after mailing to Jag-lovers.
Please disregard my prior append. I will break-down each question and
submit individual appends.
Regards,
John
------------------------------
From: Victor Naumann <jagdoc@erols.com>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 21:21:53 -0500
Subject: Re: FW: XJ-S: Rough Running
Aaron Burnett wrote:
>
> XJ-S Owners and other knowledgeable folk -- Please Help!!
>
> When checking impedance with my ohmmeter (using the 2K scale, with the
> TPS disconnected), I get the following readings:
>
> red to green wires = 3.67 @ idle full throttle = .78
>
> red to yellow wires = .06 @ idle full throttle = 3.67
>
> green to yellow wires = 3.61 @ idle full throttle = 3.61
>
>
>
> 1) start the car and let it idle
> 2) separate the three-prong plug where the TPS connects to the wiring
> harness just enough to insert the probes from your meter
> 3) contact one probe to the bullet on the red wire and one probe to the
> bullet on the green wire and record the voltage reading @ idle
> Aaron, you don't need to have the engine running, just key on. I believe that you are testing the wrongwires. Try the red wire and the yellow wire. I believe that the green is constant 5V supply.Don't know about resistance readings, I always use volts.
Hope this helps, Vic
------------------------------
From: Dan Buringrud <dano@castles.com>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 18:38:01 -0800
Subject: Re: Mixing favortites
Michael,
You are a sick twisted man in need of much counseling. Coming from me
that is the highest compliment. I don't have any info for you, but what
a cool idea. Please keep us updated on your progress. At least I think
it would be progress >:) .
Dan Buringrud
Thats Fronkensteen
Michael Frank wrote:
>
> All:
>
> As some of you know, I have both a Toyota Supra and a Jaguar E-Type. The
> Supra, my daily car, is getting a bit long in the tooth. It is showing an
> appetite for oil which makes the Jag look 'dry', and otherwise showing signs
> of a tired engine.
>
> For some time, I have been thinking about salvaging the Toyota transmission
> and using a Dellows kit to install it in the Jag. Tonight, another plan has
> come to mind.
>
> A friend of mine has a spare 4.2 XK engine. I think it is a fuelie. If I get
> the Dellows kit .....could I drop the XK engine into the Supra? Anyone tried
> anything like this?
>
> Does anyone have the physical dimensions of the XK and 7M-GE engines handy ?
>
> Mike Frank
> 1968 E-Type
> 1988 Supra NT
------------------------------
From: Victor Naumann <jagdoc@erols.com>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 1996 21:24:39 -0500
Subject: Re: postcards????
Juliansean@aol.com wrote:
>
> What is this post card stuff about????
> Is anyone else getting notices about postcards with acceptance numbers?
> Julian Mullaney
Yes , but I ignore messages from persons I don't know. Maybe I am
missing something. Let us know if you check it out.
Regards, Vic
------------------------------
From: Randy Wilson <randy@taylor.infi.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 22:01:11 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ40 Hydraulics
>>
>>How do you dial in more "preload"? A spring with a given weight on it while
>>compress to a certain calculable length. There by, the upper size seat will
>>be that amount above the lower seat. If you raise one spring seat, either by
>>threaded perches or by flipping the cup over, the other seat will move up
>>the same distance.
>
>How do you figure. The upper perch is not touched, the lower one is raised
>an inch or two.
>
The spring will push it up. In this case, ti would push the upper seat up,
taking the whole body with it.
Look at it from the other direction. The upper spring seat is attached to the
body. Resting on this is a spring. This spring, under the wieght of that
corner of the car, will be a given length. Next is the lower spring seat,
which is directly attached to the wheel. If you increase the distance from
the lower spring seat to the wheel (such as flipping it over), you lower
the wheel that amount; you do not compress the spring any. Therefore, moving
a spring seat only changes the relative distance between the two parts the
spring is holding apart. In this case, it affect the ride height. It does
not change the load the spring is under. That load, in a static situation,
is purely a function of the weight of that corner of the vehicle.
As an aside, within the designed mechanical limits, the rate of the spring
will not change. No matter how much weight is on the spring, adding X more
force will compress the spring Y distance farther.
So, I'm still left wondering... since the hydro springs are roughly 35%
softer than the factory conversion springs, why is it said that the ride
is stiffer? I can fuly understand harsher. That would be a function of
bushing material. The factory kits use that wonderful, if short lived,
stylastic material. but I can not see stiffer, unless the things are
getting in to a coil-bind position.
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
------------------------------
From: Grego14424@aol.com
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 22:27:03 -0500
Subject: to buy or not to buy
Hi all,
I looked at a 74 XJ12L with 63,000 miles on the clock, body in good shape,
(no rust, recent respray silver) newly dyed red leather interior and overall
clean shape. I have not started this car as of yet (no battery) but we very
impressed buy the soundness of the car.
I know the motor can be the source of monetary ruin so I want to be sure.
The asking price is around $3,000. If it runs well, is it a good buy. The
owner said something about leaking carbs but this is not a major concern to
me as I would convert it to fuel injection like the TR6 I have. I need the
expertise of the group.
Thanks in advance
Greg Gangemi
------------------------------
From: Randy Wilson <randy@taylor.infi.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 22:23:12 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Fwd:
>
>
>John Albrecht
>albrecht@ix.netcom.com
>1984 XJ6
>
>I'm not sure if I should have broken these up into different items
>but this is my first append. My apology in advance if I broke
>any conventions. I'll learn. This group is great!
No problems... but it would help if things were in order. :>
>1) IGNITION SWITCH reliability (mine wasn't). You
>may want to feel for hot-spots yourself even if
>your switch is working fine at the moment. I have
>found hot-spots and carbonization on jaguar
>connectors a common and disturbing problem.
A common problem, and not just Jag's, or British.
>8) When driving down highway, have a VERY slight
> tendency to drift to the left. Got 4 new
> Michelin XW4 tires (love 'em): problem remains.
> Not a control problem...it is VERY minimal and I
> can even take my hands off the wheel for awhile
> on straight roads...but it eventually starts to
> drift left. Alignment shops (2) both say
> alignment is darn near perfect...they couldn't
> get it any better. A concern is that this could
Have it checked by someone that *knows* Jag's. My first guess would be
worn out upper control arm bushings.
Also, I have never seen a Jag with Michelins that rode and/or tracked correctly.
Don't ask me why... but the two just do not seem to get along.
> I've seen are "SH, SG, SJ, and CF". Which are
> "okay" for use in an XJ6 4.2? Any experience
> with engine temperature changes when using
> synthetics vs. regular oil?
SG or higher is fine. Ignore the C*.. that's diesel rating.
>
>13) WHAT ARE THESE? (These are ALL in the trunk,
> mounted to the vertical partition between the
> trunk and the rear passenger compartment)
>
>b) GREY METAL BOX (under left "cowbell" in trunk).
> It is about 3"x3". It has a 3 connector socket
> of Black, Yellow, Black/Whitestripe, and a
> single Green wire as a separate connector. It
>...
> motor runs whenever the engine is on, and after
> a set number of rotations enables the "O2
> sensor" service light. THIS IS JUST A GUESS!
> Anyone know for sure? In other words, I deduce
> the O2 end-of-life sensor is totally independent
> of the speedo/trip computer/mpg sender.
It is the O2 service counter. That single wire connector is the input from
the speedo pulse generator. It is distance dependent.
>
>c) BLACK PLASTIC BOX about 3"x3", located below
> sunroof motor, near right cowbell. It has a 4
> position connector ( orange, Yellow/Green,
> Black, Green). The connector harness "T's" into
I believe you are refering to the speedo pulse interface unit for the trip
computer.
>
>
>14) Where's the fuel flow sensor? Is there one?
> I've not seen one in any of the fuel-system
> diagrams. I've read some stuff that suggests
> fuel flow may be "measured" by taking a signal
> from the ECU that drives a specific fuel
> injector...quantity of fuel used is then
> computed, rather than measured. I'm used to
Since most of the fuel that goes to the engine is returned, and there
are two tanks, it is much simpler to monitor the duration of the
injector pulses. This is what the trip computor does.
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
------------------------------
From: Randy Wilson <randy@taylor.infi.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 22:40:01 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: FW: XJ-S: Rough Running
>When checking impedance with my ohmmeter (using the 2K scale, with the
>TPS disconnected), I get the following readings:
>
>red to green wires = 3.67 @ idle full throttle = .78
>
>red to yellow wires = .06 @ idle full throttle = 3.67
>
>green to yellow wires = 3.61 @ idle full throttle = 3.61
>
>
>I can't really understand how the voltage can be decreasing as I rotate
>the TPS, because impedance through the critical path (red & green wires)
>is greatest at idle and decreases as throttle rotation increases.
>Before testing actual voltage output, I would have assumed that voltage
>returned would be least when impedance is greatest (at idle), and
>greatest when impedance is least (wide open throttle).
It all makes perfect sense. Red is the wiper. Green is power, Yellow is
ground. At idle position, the resistance red to green is high, while the
resistance red to yellow is low. The wiper is much closer to the ground
potential (yellow) than the hot (green) Thus, when measuring the voltage
from red to green, you'll show almost the same as from red to yellow...
about five volts.
You want to measure the wiper voltage referenced to ground, not referenced
to the 5v supply. Your TPS is not inverted... your volt meter connections
are. Try it red to yellow. :>
BTW, this would be yellow/white to yellow/black on the car side of the
connector. The yellow/pink is the power feed.
Sorry I didn't catch this first round. You wrote 5v rather than .32v, and
I read .5v.
>Aaron
>'85 XJ-S
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
------------------------------
From: "Phil Patton" <ppatton@ibm.net>
Date: Thu, 05 Dec 96 21:57:51 -0500
Subject: Re: FW: XJ-S: Rough Running
On Thu, 5 Dec 1996 11:00:42 -0800, Aaron Burnett wrote:
>XJ-S Owners and other knowledgeable folk --
Please Help!!
>
>As you can read below, I'm in a bit of a muddle
with my TPS. Kirby's
>XJ-S Help Book (and several list experts)
indicate that a properly
>functioning TPS should return a voltage of
.32-.38V at idle. But mine
>returns 5 VOLTS!.
>
>I have checked, re-checked and then
double-checked the readings (using
>two different meters). I also have dis-assembled
and cleaned the TPS.
>What I have found makes no sense to me:
>
>When checking impedance with my ohmmeter (using
the 2K scale, with the
>TPS disconnected), I get the following readings:
>
>red to green wires = 3.67 @ idle
full throttle = .78
>
>red to yellow wires = .06 @ idle
full throttle = 3.67
>
>green to yellow wires = 3.61 @ idle
full throttle = 3.61
>
>I have used a high quality meter to assure that
the change in resistance
>as the throttle is rotated is smooth - there are
no breaks in the
>contacts.
>
>HERE IS THE STRANGE PART!!
>
>With the TPS installed and the ignition on,
voltage readings @ idle from
>red to green wires = 5V (I can adjust the TPS and
achieve 4.35V). This,
>of course, is very odd as the reading is expected
to be .32-.38V.
>
>Now it gets interesting -- when I rotate the TPS
to full throttle, the
>voltage decreases to approximately .38V --
exactly the reading I should
>get @ idle!! My TPS appears to be working in an
inverse manner! This
>means a rich mixture @ idle and a lean mixture at
WOT.
>
>I checked the supply voltage to the TPS and found
it to be 5V, which
>makes sense as the peak output for the TPS should
be about 5V (supplied
>when impedance through the TPS is minimal).
>
>I can't really understand how the voltage can be
decreasing as I rotate
>the TPS, because impedance through the critical
path (red & green wires)
>is greatest at idle and decreases as throttle
rotation increases.
>Before testing actual voltage output, I would
have assumed that voltage
>returned would be least when impedance is
greatest (at idle), and
>greatest when impedance is least (wide open
throttle).
>
>To sum it up, this really doesn't make sense to
me. Is it possible that
>any other XJ-S owners can test the voltage output
from their TPS and
>post their results? This would be most helpful
in terms of comparison
>and could assist me in understanding my car's
function. All that is
>required is to:
>
>1) start the car and let it idle
>2) separate the three-prong plug where the TPS
connects to the wiring
>harness just enough to insert the probes from
your meter
>3) contact one probe to the bullet on the red
wire and one probe to the
>bullet on the green wire and record the voltage
reading @ idle
>
>
>All help is greatly appreciated. I have taken
the TPS apart and can't
>really understand how it might return the results
I have gotten. So
>until I understand the situation a bit better, I
am extremely reluctant
>to spend $150 on a new TPS just for the sake of
experimentation.
>
>Thanks in advance
>
>Aaron
>'85 XJ-S
>
>
>
>> >snip
>>
>>I have forwarded the original message below as
background to my current
>>situation. But to recap, I am trying to track
down the source of a
>>rough idle in my '85 XJ-S.
>>
>>So today I checked the TPS and engine
compression. While checking the
>>TPS with an ohmmeter, I found the internal
contacts seem to be intact --
>>the needle on the meter moved smoothly as I
rotated the TPS. However, I
>>also found that the TPS showed 5 volts at idle
- -- substantially
>>different than the 3.2V - 3.8V I was expecting.
I attempted to adjust
>>the TPS in the manner outlined in Kirby's book,
but found that the
>>minimum figure I could attain was 4.35V. The
TPS could not be turned
>>further on the three small mounting screws that
hold it. Any ideas why
>>I might get this kind of reading? Any
suggestions as to how to rectify
>>the situation? Might this mean I DO have a bad
TPS?
>>
>>
>>
>
Aaron:
This TPS on the XJ-S is a potentiometer
manufactured by Bourns. It is a very high grade
industrial part to which Jaguar has added their
own mounting assembly, wire leads, plug and
apparently some mechanical stops. It is simply a
5,000 Ohm resistor with a sliding contact. Ground
goes to one end, voltage to the other and the
sliding contact feeds a proportional voltage to
the ECU. What you describe can only happen if the
ground (or earth) wire and the voltage feed wire
are reversed. This would be a very easy mistake to
make when they are soldering on their wire and
plug assembly. I believe you will find that you
simply have a mis-assembled TPS unit. If it were
mine I would just cut the two wires that go to
either end of the pot. and swap them between the
pot. and the plug.
Best regards,
Phil
------------------------------
From: Randy Wilson <randy@taylor.infi.net>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 22:50:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: 82XJ6S3 header tank filler leak
Sorry about bombing the whole list... no return address.
>I noticed a leak on my coolant filler tank. The seam is=20
>starting to separate slightly. I was quoted a price of $195 US,=20
>which struck me as outrageous for a little plastic tank. I know=20
>
>Luis=00
I'm overstocked on these tanks... so I'm willing offer them to fellow
'netters at a reduced price. While still outrageous for a little plastic
tank, I can do a *lot* better than $195.
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
------------------------------
From: KupyKool@aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 00:03:52 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ40 Hydraulics
Eric-
In a message dated 96-12-04 14:30:36 EST, you write:
> I feel like I've typed this So many times, but here's goes again, for
> your benefit. When I bought my 1989 XJ40-VDP, the shock system broke. I
> don't know what exactly had failed (I think the nitrogen bladders), but it
> never road as well as other XJ40's I drove (with standard shocks).
> So, I bought the KYB conversion kit for close to $300. It didn't
include
> springs, just shocks, spacers, and instructions. Well, it rode so FIRM
and
> HORRIBLE!! Also, the main factor is that since the springs weren't
changed,
> the whole back of the car sagged as if cinder blocks were in the boot.
The
> sagging drove me crazy! The car looked horrible sitting so far down in
the
> back.
> Well, I spent another about $500 and did it "the right way", I bought
> Jaguar's kit for the conversion from my dealer. It included EVERYTHING:
new
> springs, shocks, spring holders, spacers, nuts & washers, and plug to
block
> off the hydraulic line. It didn't come with instructions though. It
would
> be difficult for a novice without the proper knowledge and spring
compressor
> to install them. The biggest job is compression and assembly of the strut
> asssemblies. But if you have previous experience and know-how AND a
spring
> compressor, it's not that difficult of a job.
> Now, my car rides EXCELLENT!! It couldn't ride any better, and I get
> complements from passengers on the beautiful ride of my car. Most
> important, the car now has a perfect, level, ride-height. I laugh when I
> see an absolute gorgeous 1992 or 1993 car, and the back end of the car is
> sitting on the ground while mine is sitting level next to it and looks
MUCH
> better. Changing to the dealer shocks was one of the best things I did to
> the car, and I never worry about having problems with the shock system
again.
>
> The only thing I learned, is that although I lost over $300 (now I have
a
> like-new KYB kit that no one wants to buy) and spent close to $1000 to fix
> this system, buying the "proper" accessories from Jaguar will always keep
me
> happy. So, if when you change the shocks, for a proper and ultra smooth
> ride, change the springs with the shocks and install the Jaguar dealers
kit.
Thanks for the advice. I hope someone gets around to archiving this material
so you won't have to type it again!
Mike Kupritz
Baltimore, Maryland
------------------------------
From: Hunt Dabney <hdabney@deltanet.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 21:22:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: I finally saw an XK-8
Hi all - I'm back, so I need to resucscribe. It finally happened to me -
driving to a client's this afternoon, from far off in the distance, came an
ivory convertable XK-8 with a tan top. The pictures haven't done it for me,
but boy, does it look lovely on the road!! The lines are unmistakeably Jag, too.
Hunt
------------------------------
From: Hunt Dabney <hdabney@deltanet.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 1996 21:22:08 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Mixing favortites
Way to go Mike!
Finally, the answer to lumps! (However, I sure as heck don't want to do
*anything* to fuel more lump discussions!) I don't know anything about
Supras, but my first thought is: "could an engine that long possibly fit?".
Good luck!
Hunt
At 08:41 PM 12/5/96 -0500, Michael Frank wrote:
>All:
>
>As some of you know, I have both a Toyota Supra and a Jaguar E-Type. The
>Supra, my daily car, is getting a bit long in the tooth. It is showing an
>appetite for oil which makes the Jag look 'dry', and otherwise showing signs
>of a tired engine.
>
>For some time, I have been thinking about salvaging the Toyota transmission
>and using a Dellows kit to install it in the Jag. Tonight, another plan has
>come to mind.
>
>A friend of mine has a spare 4.2 XK engine. I think it is a fuelie. If I get
>the Dellows kit .....could I drop the XK engine into the Supra? Anyone tried
>anything like this?
>
>Does anyone have the physical dimensions of the XK and 7M-GE engines handy ?
>
>Mike Frank
>1968 E-Type
>1988 Supra NT
>
>
>
------------------------------
From: Jan Wikstroem <Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au>
Date: 6 Dec 96 16:06:12
Subject: Re: Mixing favortites
I can see two problems: the XK engine is taller and very mych heavier than the
Supra engine. Now, if you go to all that trouble with suspension upgrade
anyway, why not reduce the height problem, do a proper job and drop in a V12 -
it's only 40 kg heavier...
Don't forget to install armour plate to protect you from irate Supra purists...
;3+)
- -Jan
------------------------------
From: Bert.Willing@lc.dmx.epfl.ch (Bert Willing)
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 09:16:33 +0100
Subject: Re: postcards????
Me, personally, I would have liked to receive a postcard with a photo of an E or at least SIII XJ6 - not that japanese-like thing ...
Bert
>[ Juliansean@aol.com ]
>| What is this post card stuff about????
>| Is anyone else getting notices about postcards with acceptance numbers?
>
>It's a gimmick at the new Jaguar Cars Ltd web-site, and a
>damned irritating one too. Please guys, once is enough.
>
>Nick
- --------------------------------------------------------------------
Bert Willing '84 XJ6 4.2L
Laboratoire de Ceramique - Departement des Materiaux
Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (EPFL), MX-Ecublens, CH-1015 Lausanne
Fone : (+41 21) 693 29 44
Phax : 58 10
email: Bert.Willing@lc.dmx.epfl.ch
- ------------------------- Eudora 2.1.1 ------------------------------
------------------------------
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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 6 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 571
Re: postcards????
re how HE found his jag
How I found my Jag.
Re: Mixing favortites
Re: XJ-S: Headlights
Re[2]: Mixing favortites
Re: XJS low idle
Re: manual transmission XJ-S
XJ6 Series III Lukewarm Starting: A Report
Re: XJ-S Oil Pressure
Re: postcards????
Re: manual transmission XJ-S
Asian rip offs !!!
Re: postcards????
Re: XJ6 Series III Lukewarm Starting: A Report
XKE hearse
Upper cyl lub
XJ-S Headlights
FW: postcards????
Re: Asian rip offs !!!
Re: XJ-S Headlights
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: stephen kurtzman <stephen@kurtzman.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 01:06:30 -0800
Subject: Re: postcards????
>Me, personally, I would have liked to receive a postcard with a photo of
>an E or at least SIII XJ6 - not that japanese-like thing ...
Japanese-like thing? Where do you think the Japanese get their ideas for
their sports cars? Almost every Japanese sports car today is an evolution
of the 240Z, which was a stylistic rip off of the E-type. Of course, there
are exceptions, the Mazda Miata is an MG rip off.
------------------------------
From: "Stephen Stewart" <SAPLSTEWART@msn.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 96 09:27:50 UT
Subject: re how HE found his jag
Its good to see Charles Daly's humour again, I thought we had lost him to the
E-type list.
I am enjoying the story about the black Etype although I do have my delete key
handy if anybody else tries it!
By the way did I tell you about the tungsten XJS I saw in a car
yard..........................................
Steve Stewart
81 XJS HE
83 Range Rover
4 kids, hence Range Rover 7 seater
Headache!
------------------------------
From: Baard Th Hesvik <baard@telesoft.no>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 11:35:00 -0800
Subject: How I found my Jag.
Bob;
>Back in July of this year, I decided that I would like to have a Jag. I
>looked in the newspaper, saw a car that sounded nice, called the owner,
>drove it around the block, wrote him a check, drove it home.
Charles;
>Gee, I'm biting my nails!
>I bet he pays for the jag,
>is handed the keys...
>and falls down a man-hole
>>or heard from...
<again.
>Stay tuned.
C'mon guys, cut it out! Let him finish. I sence a surprise in the air here.
Didn't you notice the "Oh, and bring the cash" -part? Maybe his name isn't Brett
Ferguson at all. Maybe his real name is David Lynch! Please don't discourage him
just yet :-!!
Regards
Bard
- --
______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ /_/ / /_/ /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ _/ /_/ / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no
------------------------------
From: Lenny Seidman <lseidman@erols.com>
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 06:37:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Mixing favortites
Michael Frank wrote:
>
> For some time, I have been thinking about salvaging the Toyota transmission
> and using a Dellows kit to install it in the Jag. Tonight, another plan has
> come to mind.
Not wanting to sound stupid but what is a"Dellows Kit"?
- --
Lenny Seidman
Elkins Park, Pennsylvania, USA
email: lseidman@erols.com
------------------------------
From: "Richard.Mansell" <Richard.Mansell@psemail.ps.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 11:39:00 +0000
Subject: Re: XJ-S: Headlights
- ------ =_0_MIME_Boundary_16869.32a8078a.im3qldh0.eurh021.eur.ps.net
John said:-
>On UK cars the fog/ driving lights are operated on the rotary dash light switch. Position 1= side/ park 2= headlights 3= head & fog/driving lights 4= side/park & only fog/ driving lights and there is a push facility that works when in position 2-4 for the rear fog warning lights fitted in the rear bumpers. Another totally useless fact I discovered recently (UK spec), although I do not know what year it was introduced, is that if you turn your side lights on and the engine is running the headlights will actually turn on in a dimmed dipped mode as opposed to dipped or main beam. I had noticed for a little while that if I turned my side lights on about two seconds later they became a little brighter. Now I know why, I thought it was flaky wiring. I probably had it on my last two XJ-S's, I just hadn't noticed. Richard '89 XJ-S 5.3 richard.mansell@ps.net =_0_MIME_Boundary_16869.32a8078a.im3qldh0.eurh021.eur.ps.net <Zero length text item> =_0_MIME_Boundary_16869.32a8078a.im3qldh0.eurh021.eur.ps.net-- From: "Claus, Mike" <claus@wg.com> Date: Fri, 06 Dec 96 07:25:35 EST Subject: Re[2]: Mixing favortites Gee - I don't know. What will the Toyota purists think? After all, if he does this to his car it won't actually be a TOYOTA anymore....... :) mclaus ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Re: Mixing favortites Author: dano@castles.com at WG-RAL-SMTP Date: 12/5/96 10:21 PM Michael, You are a sick twisted man in need of much counseling. Coming from me that is the highest compliment. I don't have any info for you, but what a cool idea. Please keep us updated on your progress. At least I think it would be progress >:) . Dan Buringrud Thats Fronkensteen Michael Frank wrote:
>
> All:
>
> As some of you know, I have both a Toyota Supra and a Jaguar E-Type. The
> Supra, my daily car, is getting a bit long in the tooth. It is showing an
> appetite for oil which makes the Jag look 'dry', and otherwise showing signs
> of a tired engine.
>
> For some time, I have been thinking about salvaging the Toyota transmission
> and using a Dellows kit to install it in the Jag. Tonight, another plan has
> come to mind.
>
> A friend of mine has a spare 4.2 XK engine. I think it is a fuelie. If I get
> the Dellows kit .....could I drop the XK engine into the Supra? Anyone tried
> anything like this?
>
> Does anyone have the physical dimensions of the XK and 7M-GE engines handy ?
>
> Mike Frank
> 1968 E-Type
> 1988 Supra NT
------------------------------
From: BSherw@aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 07:30:44 -0500
Subject: Re: XJS low idle
Joe Bunik <jbunik@bayarea.net> wrote:
>I have a late '87 XJS... When I turn on the blower for either heat or
>air conditioning my idle drops from 700 rpm to around 300 rpm...
I wouldn't dare suggest a solution to Joe's problem...., but I think
any engine that will idle at 300 rpm under a load speaks highly of
it's design!
Brian Sherwood
'84 XJ-S, 85 XJ6
Brazil, IN.
------------------------------
From: BSherw@aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 07:31:09 -0500
Subject: Re: manual transmission XJ-S
I was working under the hood of a Chevy S-10 this week. Looking at
the hydraulic clutch master cylinder I thought "hey, that would be
a good one to use for the XJ-S conversion " planned for sometime in
the future- it was a nice small unit, and had the mounting flange as an
integral part, I think.
speculating again,
Brian Sherwood
'84 XJ-S
------------------------------
From: William F Trimble <trimbwf@mail.auburn.edu>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 07:15:20 -0600 (CST)
Subject: XJ6 Series III Lukewarm Starting: A Report
The Problem:
Last summer, I found that on hot days (90 degrees F. or higher), my car
(1985 Series III XJ6) would start fine in the morning after sitting
overnight, but that it was extremely difficult to start after sitting in a
covered parking garage for 8 hours or so. A lot of cranking and playing
with the throttle would eventually get the car to fire, but it was always a
struggle. The car would hot start fine; that is, after running for a while
on the interstate, with the temperature gauge at 90 degrees C, the car would
start after only a few turns of the starter motor.
I told Rick the Mechanic about this problem, and he seemed to feel that the
thermotime switch was bad. The one I had in the car was relatively new
(about 2-3 years old), but I agreed that it might be defective, and I
replaced it. The replacement was a 35 degree C. switch with an 8 second
time; the original one was 35 degrees and 12 seconds. The thermotime switch
sends a signal to fire the cold start injector at temperatures below 35
degrees C. At temperatures above that, there is presumably no need for the
extra enrichment, and the thermotime switch does not signal the injector to
fire. The problem persisted, and I reported it to the list. In the meantime,
Tony Gardner (1986 Series III XJ6), a member of the list, said that he
had what appeared to be a similar problem.
The Theory:
I suspected that the problem may only afflict cars in warmer areas of
the temperate belt. When the car sits overnight, and the ambient
temperature falls into the seventies F., the engine cools off enough for the
thermotime switch to fire the cold start injector when the car is started in
the morning. When the car is at operating temperature, the thermotime
switch does not activate the cold start injector, but because the engine is
hot, there is no problem getting it to fire. But if the car is parked with
the engine having fully warmed up, and it sits all day with temperatures
above 90 degrees F., the coolant stays sufficiently warm that the
thermotime switch will not fire the cold start injector. But, evidently,
that intermediate temperature is cool enough that my car requires some extra
enrichment for starts. Cars in cooler climates will probably never
encounter the problem, because they would cool off enough during the day to
have the thermotime switch kick in the cold start injector. Or if there was
an unsually hot day, the car might have difficulty starting, but the owner
would dismiss it as a transient problem because it might not reoccur
during the rest of the summer.
The Diagnosis:
Replies from the list persuaded Tony and me that the problem might be
related to fuel pressure, so we each rigged up Rube Goldbergian gauges to
monitor fuel pressure during starting and running, and to see what happened
to the pressure after the car sat for awhile. We got similar results--after
four hours or so, the fuel pressure fell to zero, but always jumped to 30
pounds or so after only a few cranks. We concluded that we might have a
problem with the fuel pressure leaking down over time, but that it was not
likely to be the cause of the lukewarm starting problem. I replaced the
fuel return valve in my car, with no noticeable changes in fuel pressure
retention. Tony and I might be wrong, but it seems as if the car should
start if there's plenty of fuel and pressure within a few turns of the
starter motor. Also, to verify this assumption, Tony tried pressurizing the
fuel system before cranking (by using the vane in the air flow meter to
operate the fuel pump) but with no noticeable improvement to starts.
Rick the Mechanic then suggested that a "solution" to the problem was
to ground the thermotime switch so that it operated every time the car
started. I did this by disconnecting the plug-in connector from the top of
the switch and connecting the ground wire from the plug-in connector (on the
"W" side) to a nut on the cam cover. I filed down a regular male spade
connector to fit the female receptacle in the plug-in connector. I've been
driving the car for several months now, with no cold, warm, or hot starting
problems. The biggest worry of having the thermotime switch firing all the
time is on hot starts, where extended cranking might cause flooding, but I
haven't had any problems. Tony effected the same "solution" on his car, and
has had similar results, although he recently reported to me that he has
had two bad hot starts.
The original problem, however, remains to be solved. Tony suspects the
ECU may not be signaling additional injector pulse width during cranking but
does not know how this is signaled or how to test it.
Tony and I would like to hear from others on the list to see what
thoughts they may have about this perplexing problem, which may be generic
to higher-mileage fuel-injected XJ6s living in hot climates.
Bill Trimble
Auburn, Alabama
Tony Gardner
St. Louis, Missouri
------------------------------
From: Chad Bolles <aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 08:27:51 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S Oil Pressure
Claus: You most likley need a new guage sending unit,when they start
going bad they indicate all kinds of oil pressures.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044
------------------------------
From: Chad Bolles <aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 08:31:46 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: postcards????
Julian: I would be VERY suspicious of things like this,IT VERY WELL
could be a VIRUS. I have been seeing warnings about them.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044On
Thu, 5 Dec 1996 Juliansean@aol.com wrote:
> What is this post card stuff about????
> Is anyone else getting notices about postcards with acceptance numbers?
> Julian Mullaney
>
>
------------------------------
From: Chad Bolles <aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 08:43:31 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: manual transmission XJ-S
Brian: Jaguar makes a clutch m/c for the XJ-S.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044On
Fri, 6 Dec 1996 BSherw@aol.com wrote:
> I was working under the hood of a Chevy S-10 this week. Looking at
> the hydraulic clutch master cylinder I thought "hey, that would be
> a good one to use for the XJ-S conversion " planned for sometime in
> the future- it was a nice small unit, and had the mounting flange as an
> integral part, I think.
>
> speculating again,
> Brian Sherwood
> '84 XJ-S
>
------------------------------
From: DavidZ333@aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 09:42:14 -0500
Subject: Asian rip offs !!!
>>>>Almost every Japanese sports car today is an evolution
of the 240Z, which was a stylistic rip off of the E-type. Of course, there
are exceptions, the Mazda Miata is an MG rip off.<<<<<
Excuse me, but the Mazda Miata has been often claimed in the very popular
press to be an MG spin off only because the readers of pop media never heard
of a Lotus. One quick glance at a Miata (and some reading re its history)
clearly reveals that the Miata was greatly inspired by the 1st generation
Lotus Elan. Indeed, several auto pubs had done comparisons of these two cars
soon after the Miata was presented because of that fact.
Miatas are wonderful cars and Miata owners are wonderful people whether they
nearly always drive with their tops up or not. Please, I have driven Miatas;
my brother owns a Miata. I would not trade my Lotus for all the Miatas in
the world nor for all the MGs in the world.
Watch it !!!!!
David
54 XK120S
66 Lotus Elan S-2 Roadster
.......
------------------------------
From: "Mark McChesney" <mmcchesn@ford.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 09:50:08 -0500
Subject: Re: postcards????
> Subject: Re: postcards????
> >Me, personally, I would have liked to receive a postcard with a photo of
> >an E or at least SIII XJ6 - not that japanese-like thing ...
>
> Japanese-like thing? Where do you think the Japanese get their ideas for
> their sports cars? Almost every Japanese sports car today is an evolution
> of the 240Z, which was a stylistic rip off of the E-type. Of course, there
> are exceptions, the Mazda Miata is an MG rip off.
>
>-- End of excerpt from stephen kurtzman
Seems that I don't have to respond to anti-XK8 posts any more :-) Good,
because I was tiring of it. Steve has said it all - thanks!
Mark McChesney
------------------------------
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 16:06:24 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: XJ6 Series III Lukewarm Starting: A Report
My Haynes manual for the V12 (yeah, I know ... :-) suggests to remove
the thermo-time switch altogether if you have cold-start problems.
Are you sure your water temp sensor to the ECU is ok ?
- - matthias
>
> The Problem:
> Last summer, I found that on hot days (90 degrees F. or higher), my car
> (1985 Series III XJ6) would start fine in the morning after sitting
....
------------------------------
From: jwbeckmeye@orion.branch-co.lib.mi.us
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 10:27:42 -0500
Subject: XKE hearse
>From: JoBall@aol.com
>To: nick@sn.no
>Subject: Jaguar XK-E Hearse
>
>I'm trying to find information and/or pictures of the XK-E hearse featured in
>the movie Harold and Maude. I'd really like pictures of the conversion in
>progress, but would settle for movie stills. I'm a car modeler and would
>like to build a model of this unique hearse. I'd appreciate any leads you
>might give me. Thanks for your help.
>
Try: http://www.best.com/~border/grimrides/grimrides.html
You might find something there that relates to your question.
Best regards,
Jim Beckmeyer
Union City, MI
90 Jaguar Sovereign
60 Jag MK II
jwbeckmeye@orion.branch-co.lib.mi.us
------------------------------
From: jwbeckmeye@orion.branch-co.lib.mi.us
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 10:27:40 -0500
Subject: Upper cyl lub
Kirby wrote, in part:
>So: If we really want our cars to last forever, wouldn't it be a
>good idea to add something to the gas tank to provide some
>lubrication to these areas?
<SNIP>
>It seems to me that any of these additives would probably be an
>improvement in lubrication over nothing. The two-cycle oil could be
>mixed far weaker than it is for two-cycle engines, since any amount
>is a benefit, and we clearly wouldn't need as much as a two-cycle
>engine needs.
Kirby, why would two cycle oil be better than MMO, if at all? Any opinion?
>Whatta you guys think? Would such additives be a BETTER investment
>than spending a lot of money on oil additives, filters, synthetic
>oil, etc., in terms of making one's engine last longer?
I'm one of those eccentrics who would like to keep my cars running
forever...there's probably something about my Tutonic heritage that leads me
to this. Also, it may have to do with my bank account <s>.
A couple of thoughts from list members have been brought forward...one of
which is the so called planned obsolescence build into lots of things
including cars. I believe that this truly exists to some degree but perhaps
not in some marques like RR and, hopefully (haha), Jags.
Kirby and I had a list discussion a long time ago about "planned obsolescant
engineering" being *not* incorporated in the manufacture of aircraft, big
and small, and I'm hoping Kirby will explain once again metal fatigue and
the required inspection routines to find this fatigue before it becomes
trouble. Same goes for aircraft powerplants.
ANecdotal evidence (is that an oxymoron?) in aircraft engines, based on my
experience as an owner and mechanic many moons ago, indicates that Marvel
Mystery Oil *seems* to work. If the aircraft owner wants to stretch the TBO
from 2000 hours to 2500 hours, this is *one* on the things I might try as in
aircraft engines there seems to be no downside to adding MMO in the right
proportions, although I can't remember for the life of me what the FAA view
on this is.
Now, how this related to upper cyl lubrication autos: if there is something
that I can put in my gasoline tank that would provide some lube to rings,
valve guides, etc., then I would go for it providing it wouldn't screw too
much with pollution stuff mandated by law. (BTW, we don't have vehicle
inspections here in Mich so the emissions problem really isn't a legal
problem yet.)
What I want to know before dumping in a small quantity of MMO is what the
possible downsides are. Can any of our professional jag techs chime in here
with some of that book learnin that Jaguar supplied. IOW Michael and Randy,
if I put his stuff in my 90 XJ40, what'll happen?
Best regards,
Jim Beckmeyer
Union City, MI
90 Jaguar Sovereign
60 Jag MK II
jwbeckmeye@orion.branch-co.lib.mi.us
------------------------------
From: "Kirbert" <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 10:48:44 -0005
Subject: XJ-S Headlights
I still haven't gotten a response to the question of what bulbs are
used in the Euro-style headlights on the XJ-S. Surely somebody out
there has such a car. It seems to me it would only require checking
the owner's manual to tell me what bulb is called for. The Jaguar
mail-order catalogs I have don't seem to tell me.
Thanks.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm's Postulate
------------------------------
From: Aaron Burnett <aaron.burnett@attws.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 08:26:39 -0800
Subject: FW: postcards????
The postcards are no big deal. Double-click on the hypertext link in
your e-mail notification. Enter your confirmation number (I think that
is the term used), and receive an innocuous, but complimentary message.
No viruses and no plot that I can see.
Aaron
>----------
>From: Chad Bolles[SMTP:aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu]
>Sent: Friday, December 06, 1996 5:31 AM
>To: Juliansean@aol.com
>Cc: jag-lovers@sn.no
>Subject: Re: postcards????
>
> Julian: I would be VERY suspicious of things like this,IT VERY WELL
>could be a VIRUS. I have been seeing warnings about them.
>Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044On
>Thu, 5 Dec 1996 Juliansean@aol.com wrote:
>
>> What is this post card stuff about????
>> Is anyone else getting notices about postcards with acceptance numbers?
>> Julian Mullaney
>>
>>
>
------------------------------
From: "Mark McChesney" <mmcchesn@ford.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 11:31:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Asian rip offs !!!
On Dec 6, 9:42am, DavidZ333@aol.com wrote:
> Subject: Asian rip offs !!!
> Miatas are wonderful cars and Miata owners are wonderful people whether they
> nearly always drive with their tops up or not. Please, I have driven Miatas;
> my brother owns a Miata. I would not trade my Lotus for all the Miatas in
> the world nor for all the MGs in the world.
> David
>
> 54 XK120S
> 66 Lotus Elan S-2 Roadster
> .......
>
>-- End of excerpt from DavidZ333@aol.com
Funny, my brother has a Miata also :-). He is not the type to get his
fingernails dirty. He doesn't need to. 136k and only oil changes (at
Minutelube). Car still works like new.
I drove an Elan (big valve) in the UK for a short while (not mine). Almost
sold the E-type AND the Mini. The Elan is truly a great car. Miata is a
sterilized copy.
Mark McChesney
------------------------------
From: radiowsh@mindport.net
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 16:40:25 GMT
Subject: Re: XJ-S Headlights
On Fri, 6 Dec 1996 10:48:44 -0005, Kirby wrote:
>I still haven't gotten a response to the question of what bulbs are=20
>used in the Euro-style headlights on the XJ-S. Surely somebody out=20
>there has such a car. It seems to me it would only require checking=20
>the owner's manual to tell me what bulb is called for. The Jaguar
>mail-order catalogs I have don't seem to tell me.
>
When I first got my '85 XJ-S, it had H4 halogens rated at 60/55 watts.
I promptly replaced them with 100/55 watt H4's. There is also a
radio-style lamp tucked away in each headlamp as part of the parking
light system (looks real mean at night). I use #1893 lamps there due
to their longevity. I don't know what the factory recommendations are
because my owners manual is for the 4-headlamp system.
Vince
- --
Vince Chrzanowski radiowsh@mindport.net
- ------------------------------------------------
"There is not a moment to be lost" - Jack Aubrey
- ------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #571
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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 6 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 572
Re: to buy or not to buy
Re: postcards????
Re: XJ-S Hood Bulges
Re: XJ-S: Headlights
Re: postcards????
Asian Motors
Re: XJ-S Headlights
Re: Upper cyl lub
Alignment and Michelins...
RE: XJ6 Series III Lukewarm Starting: A Report
Asian rip offs !!!
Re: re how HE found his jag
Hydraulic System Mineral Oil
Re: Jelly Beans
XJ-S Leaper
Re: e-type conversion
Asian rip offs !!!
Re: XJ-S: Headlights
XJ-S Headlights - Owners manual
Re: postcards????
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Jim Cantrell" <jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 09:46:51 MDT
Subject: Re: to buy or not to buy
> I looked at a 74 XJ12L with 63,000 miles on the clock, body in good shape,
> (no rust, recent respray silver) newly dyed red leather interior and overall
<snip>
> I know the motor can be the source of monetary ruin so I want to be sure.
If you do the work yourself, it is still expensive compared to lumps
but definitely in the affordable category. Its more a source of
potential disappointment in my opinion. Don't get me wrong, I think
that the motor is a beautiful thing, but don't have expectations of
overwhelming acceleration or a maintenance free lifestyle. Of
course, if you were that way, you'd be looking at a Honda.
> The asking price is around $3,000. If it runs well, is it a good buy.
Assuming no rust and the motor is SOUND (ie has no clacking noises -
even the slightest ones can be signs of a deadly encounter !), this
is an OK price. Degrade the price according to the vehicle's faults.
> The
> owner said something about leaking carbs but this is not a major concern to
> me as I would convert it to fuel injection like the TR6 I have. I need the
> expertise of the group.
The carbs are easy to rebuild but I wouldn't attempt to convert it to
FI. It would be very expensive and extensive wiring would have to be
added.
Kind Regards,
Jim Cantrell
------------------------------
From: "Kirbert" <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 11:51:51 -0005
Subject: Re: postcards????
> Juliansean@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > What is this post card stuff about????
> > Is anyone else getting notices about postcards with acceptance numbers?
> > Julian Mullaney
> Yes , but I ignore messages from persons I don't know. Maybe I am
> missing something. Let us know if you check it out.
> Regards, Vic
Hey, it was kinda cool. Otherwise fairly pointless though.
Seems to me more of you guys should be using Pegasus Mail. It
highlights URLs in the message text, so you just double-click on them
and it automatically fires up NetScape and takes you to the spot.
IOW, one double-click along with a copy/paste of that acceptance
number to VIEW the postcard. No big deal.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm's Postulate
------------------------------
From: "Kirbert" <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 11:51:51 -0005
Subject: Re: XJ-S Hood Bulges
Isbell:
> I just had an idea. Would it improve the cooling of a V12 if you
> swapped the hoods to a bulged hood and opened up the front of the
> bulge as an air scoop?
No. The problem with XJ-S V-12 cooling is getting the air OUT of the
engine compartment, not in. In fact, this fix would likely increase
underhood pressure and decrease airflow through the radiator.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm's Postulate
------------------------------
From: "Kirbert" <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 11:51:52 -0005
Subject: Re: XJ-S: Headlights
Richard.Mansell:
> Another totally useless fact I discovered recently (UK spec), although I
> do not know what year it was introduced, is that if you turn your side
> lights on...
What are "side lights"?
> and the engine is running the headlights will actually turn on
> in a dimmed dipped mode as opposed to dipped or main beam.
Are you sure it's a dimmed dipped? Seems to me this fits the
description of this "bulb pilot" in the Euro style headlights -- a
separate, low-power bulb.
> I had noticed for a little while that if I turned my side lights on about
> two seconds later they became a little brighter. Now I know why, I
> thought it was flaky wiring.
This sounds like the kind of flakiness that results from the improper
connection of the bulb failure units. When first turned on, current
backfeeds through the bulb failure unit and powers some other lights
that aren't supposed to be on. After the bulb failure unit warms up,
the connection is broken, which turns some light off and allows
others to get brighter.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm's Postulate
------------------------------
From: "Kirbert" <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 11:51:52 -0005
Subject: Re: postcards????
Steve:
> > ...the Mazda Miata is an MG rip off.
No, it's not! It's a Lotus Elan ripoff! I even heard once that
Mazda purchased a few Lotus Elan during development. And I talked
to one owner of a pristine Elan that was really pissed off, everyone
thinks his car is a plain old Mazda Miata, doesn't give it a second
look.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm's Postulate
------------------------------
From: Adam Clark <aclark@internal.brann.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 96 16:50:00 G
Subject: Asian Motors
I had trouble following this Miata thread until it occured to me that
'Miata' must be the US name for what is marketed to us Brits as the Mazda
MX-5. Am I right?
Anyway, the Miata/MX-5 wide-mouthed frog grin is pure E-type. Is this a
rip-off or a homage? Depends on your level of tolerance. I read somewhere
that the MX-5 designers listened to dozens of exhaust pipe notes from
classic Brit roadsters to get the growl just right. That's attention to
detail.
What the Japanese/Pacific Rim car manufacturers are good at is producing
the kind of affordable, attractive, driveable, reliable sports cars that
are no longer manufactured in Europe.
And that's not all - I saw a photo of a recently-manufactured Japanese
car of the in-vogue retro-mobile type which was a clear and shameless
copy of a MKII Jag saloon.
I await the Series III rip-off, so authentically sourced that the cabin
fills with petrol fumes and the motor leaks oil like the Exxon Valdez.
Adam Clark
------------------------------
From: Cliff Sadler <ata@netsrq.com>
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 11:59:32 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ-S Headlights
Kirbert wrote:
>
> I still haven't gotten a response to the question of what bulbs are
> used in the Euro-style headlights on the XJ-S. Surely somebody out
> there has such a car. It seems to me it would only require checking
> the owner's manual to tell me what bulb is called for. The Jaguar
> mail-order catalogs I have don't seem to tell me.
>
> Thanks.
>
> -- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
> | some rules must be broken.
> | - Palm's Postulate
Haynes, Pg. 182
Headlamp -
Main and Dip 411 60/45
Main Beam Only 411 50
Halogen H1 55
N America 15602 37.5/50
I'd just look, but my PO was out of the channel so many times that I
actually have two different Euro Headlamps!
CIBIE 100E lens with 2 seperate Halos and a small bulb on passenger side
CIBIE 100E H4 lens w/ 1 Halo and 2 small bulbs on the drivers side
Needless to say I look like a typical Lucas nightmare coming down the
street at night!
p.s. Anyone have a match to either of the above they want to get rid of?
------------------------------
From: "Kirbert" <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 12:21:10 -0005
Subject: Re: Upper cyl lub
> Kirby, why would two cycle oil be better than MMO, if at all? Any
> opinion?
I know nothing about the chemistry of either. However, working from
the objectives, note that two cycle oil is formulated specifically
for mixing with gasoline and being burned in a piston engine, and for
providing lubrication in the process. Newer stuff might even meet
some EPA requirements, I dunno. In any case, it sounds perfect.
MMO, on the other hand, lists so many applications that it's
questionable just what it was formulated for in the first place. And
it was formulated so long ago that one wonders what the state of
lubricant chemistry was at the time.
> Kirby and I had a list discussion a long time ago about "planned
> obsolescant engineering" being *not* incorporated in the
> manufacture of aircraft, big and small, and I'm hoping Kirby will
> explain once again metal fatigue and the required inspection
> routines to find this fatigue before it becomes trouble. Same goes
> for aircraft powerplants.
Gees, not again. Somebody please repost the thing, I didn't keep a
copy. In any case, note that the solution to fatigue problems for
piston-engined aircraft is to keep track of hours and replace all
fatigue-limited parts on schedule.
And, of course, note that lubrication and fatigue are unrelated,
other than EITHER will limit engine life and therefore if fatigue is
the limiting factor, better lubrication will accomplish little. It
seems, however, that most of our cars die from lubrication problems
in the upper cylinder (worn compression rings, worn cylinders, worn
valves) than from either fatigue (broken con rods, broken cranks) or
lower-end lubrication problems (worn bottom-end bearings).
> ANecdotal evidence (is that an oxymoron?) in aircraft engines,
> based on my experience as an owner and mechanic many moons ago,
> indicates that Marvel Mystery Oil *seems* to work.
Is MMO popular among aircraft owners?
> What I want to know before dumping in a small quantity of MMO is
> what the possible downsides are.
Other than cost, the only things I would expect to be concerned with
are oxygen sensor fouling, catalytic convertor fouling, and emissions
test failing. Dunno about any, but I'd bet that MMO does! If the
cans for sale STILL indicate it should be added to fuel to prolong
engine life and don't list warnings about these three items, I'd
think it'd be OK; the only remaining question would be whether or not
it actually provides any benefit, for which we cannot trust the
claims on the can since they would be biased.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm's Postulate
------------------------------
From: per@quantum.ece.ucsb.edu (Per Stenius)
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 96 9:54:38 PST
Subject: Alignment and Michelins...
There was a post recently where someone was worried by his Jaguar steering
slightly to the left. Someone replied that they had their doubts of whether
the Michelin tires worked fine with the car. I don't think the tires are a
problem, as i have the Michelin XM4's myself and they work perfectly - no
problem at all! I have had the car properly aligned, and the tires balanced and
it all works like a dream. However, I would not be too worried if the car
displays occasional steering to the left - this can be caused just by the road
being slanted etc.
- --
_______________________________________________________________________________
Per Stenius (http://www.ece.ucsb.edu/SQO/Per/)
Email: per@quantum.ece.ucsb.edu
------------------------------
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 11:58:46 -0600 (CST)
Subject: RE: XJ6 Series III Lukewarm Starting: A Report
I have an older Series III XJ6 in a hot climate with high milage.
1982/5 XJ6 series III, fuel injected, in Austin Texas with 118,000 miles.
I have no starting problems.
You commented on being happy with a start after two or three turns. My car
starts on the first piston to fire, never even a full turn. I would be very
unhappy if it ever turned over twice without starting.
JIM I.
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas."
Gen. Emiliano Zapata
1879-1919
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 12:11:39 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Asian rip offs !!!
How can anyone say the Miata is a rip off of a Lotus. I never saw a lotus
"jelly bean car". The Lotus is a prety car. The Miata is a "jelly bean
car" like the Taurus and the XK-8.
Or have I missed a new version of the Lotus that looks like the Japaneese
"jelly beans"?
I will be glad when I can buy a car again instead of a jelly bean.
JIM I.
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas."
Gen. Emiliano Zapata
1879-1919
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 13:49:40 -0500
Subject: Re: re how HE found his jag
In a message dated 96-12-06 05:10:49 EST, SAPLSTEWART@msn.com (Stephen
Stewart) writes:
<< I am enjoying the story about the black Etype >>
I admit I'm also enjoying the black Etype story too.
Just throwing my vote in on the other side, seems there are a lot of
bah-humbugs on the list.
Julian Mullaney
------------------------------
From: hastings@frodo.eucom.mil (Craig R. Hastings)
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 18:45:46 GMT
Subject: Hydraulic System Mineral Oil
Quick question.
I have an 88 VDP (XJ40) that has the power fluid low indicator on. I think
this is refering to the hydraulic oil for the power brakes (not brake fluid) and
also for the auto leveling system (but mine has been replaced with regular
shocks). The manual says use only Jaguar or Castrol Hydraulic System Mineral
Oil. My delima is that it's friday night and I have to leave on a trip before
Monday when the Jaguar dealer opens up. Any body know what this might be sold
as in Germany and maybe where I can get some on a weekend? It sure would help
me out. Thanks in advance
Craig Hastings
88 VDP (with no power brakes)
61 OTS (OBL)
------------------------------
From: "Mark McChesney" <mmcchesn@ford.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 14:10:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Jelly Beans
On Dec 6, 12:11pm, Jim Isbell wrote:
> Subject: Asian rip offs !!!
> The Miata is a "jelly bean car" like the Taurus
Must be the blasted Ford stylists again... truth is, we sneak into the studios
of competing Japanese car companies and and draw ovals all over their
production drawings :-)
Mark McChesney
------------------------------
From: mkenrick@golder.com (Michael Kenrick)
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 11:19:25 -0800
Subject: XJ-S Leaper
Someone may have mentioned this already, in which case I apologize
profusely.
Jaguar World has a nice little accessory I have always though might
look good on my XJ-S: the traditional Jaguar Leaper in high-quality
chrome. Its modeled on the early MkV (?) version and sits on a round
base that is directly interchangeable with the authentic OEM bonnet
badge, bolted from underneath. And the plinth is beveled to take
account of the sloping bonnet. Contact:
Bill Tracy -- Phone (941) 924-9523
4050 Red Rock Lane
Sarasota, FL 34231
United States of America
The price is an unbelievably low $8.60 plus $5.00 postage COD to
anywhere in the US. Bill also told me the UK price is 35 quid.
Michael Kenrick
86 XJ-S, 137k miles
------------------------------
From: John McDonagh <jmcdonagh@bus.wisc.edu>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 13:43:03 -0600
Subject: Re: e-type conversion
Steve,
There have been quite a few of these conversions done in New Zealand. I
have heard that you can simply turn the steering rack over on some E types
but I'm not sure if this is true and for which ones. There is a place in
Christchurch that had a number of RHD dashboards made up - when I get back
there in January I can check this out if you like - currently I'm in
Wisconsin and about to embark on a drive across the USA.
John McDonagh
>>i own a 1969 e-type series 2 ots in lhd which i need to convert to rhd
>>any tips or advice would be welcome
>>kind regards
>>steve naude
------------------------------
From: bsawyer@mint.net (Bruce Sawyer)
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 15:20:45 -0500
Subject: Asian rip offs !!!
Hope I don't bring down the wrath of GOD but,I feel I must put my two cents
in here. Currently I own and run the following: 56 MGA 1500, 70 Citroen DS
21, 85 VDP, 90 Saab 900t Conv, 95 Miata M edition and 96 Ford Explorer. In
the past I have owned several British sportcars from MGBs to TR6s and am
currently on my second Miata. I gotta tell ya the Miata is the best British
Sports Car I have ever owned (it is unforunate that it took the Japanese to
build it). Much of the design work was done both here in the States and IAD
in UK. At least the Japanese knew where to go to give the Miata its soul.
Who cares about all the rest.... who copied what, when, etc. Let's just
celebrate the fact that there are still auto companies that will spend the
needed time and funds to produce what to the average motorist (the
appliance owner) must seem like a complete waste of metal. As well as the
fact that there are people like you and I that see the light.
------------------------------
From: "Richard.Mansell" <Richard.Mansell@psemail.ps.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 20:20:00 +0000
Subject: Re: XJ-S: Headlights
- ------ =_0_MIME_Boundary_15633.32a88444.im6h5380.eurh021.eur.ps.net
- ---------------------------- Forwarded with Changes ---------------------------
From: owner-jag-lovers@sn.no%ussmtp at ccx400uk
Date: 12/6/96 11:46AM
To: Richard Mansell at Not-Cop5
*To: jag-lovers@sn.no%ussmtp at ccx400uk
Subject: Re: XJ-S: Headlights
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ------ =_0_MIME_Boundary_15633.32a88444.im6h5380.eurh021.eur.ps.net
Content-Type: text/plain; name="Authorized by..."; charset=us-ascii
Message authorized by:
: palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu%ussmtp at ccx400uk
- ------ =_0_MIME_Boundary_15633.32a88444.im6h5380.eurh021.eur.ps.net
Kirby
The reason I said 'discovered' is because I was reading my owners
manual which states:-
In the UK the headlamps are automatically switched ON in a dimmed
dipped beam mode when the side lights are switched ON and ignition
switch is in position '2'. This prevents the vehicle being driven with
side and tail lamps only.
If you have not guessed side lamps is English for pilot lamps.
Richard
______________________________ Forward Header __________________________________
Subject: Re: XJ-S: Headlights
Author: owner-jag-lovers@sn.no%ussmtp at ccx400uk
Date: 06/12/96 11:46
Richard.Mansell:
> Another totally useless fact I discovered recently (UK spec), although I
> do not know what year it was introduced, is that if you turn your side
> lights on...
What are "side lights"?
> and the engine is running the headlights will actually turn on
> in a dimmed dipped mode as opposed to dipped or main beam.
Are you sure it's a dimmed dipped? Seems to me this fits the
description of this "bulb pilot" in the Euro style headlights -- a
separate, low-power bulb.
> I had noticed for a little while that if I turned my side lights on about
> two seconds later they became a little brighter. Now I know why, I
> thought it was flaky wiring.
This sounds like the kind of flakiness that results from the improper
connection of the bulb failure units. When first turned on, current
backfeeds through the bulb failure unit and powers some other lights
that aren't supposed to be on. After the bulb failure unit warms up,
the connection is broken, which turns some light off and allows
others to get brighter.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm's Postulate
- ------ =_0_MIME_Boundary_15633.32a88444.im6h5380.eurh021.eur.ps.net--
------------------------------
From: "Richard.Mansell" <Richard.Mansell@psemail.ps.net>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 20:34:00 +0000
Subject: XJ-S Headlights - Owners manual
- ------ =_0_MIME_Boundary_15633.32a88447.im6h5f70.eurh021.eur.ps.net
Well since you asked so nicely:-
My owners manual has the following ('89 UK V12)
Headlamps (France only) 60/55W Halogen H4 476 JLM 9599
Headlamps Rest of World 60/55W Halogen H4 472 JLM 9598
Cigar lighter illumination 2.2W Bayonet 987 C15788
Clock (where fitted) 2.2W Bayonet 987 C15788
Door Guard Lamp 5W Capless 501 JLM 9600
Fibre Optic light 6W Bayonet 989 JLM 9601
Fog Lamps Front 55W Halogen 479 JLM 9588
Rear 21W Bayonet 382 C9126
Headlamp pilot 4W Bayonet 233 JLM 9589
Instrument illumination 2.2W Capless 504 C43898
Luggage compartment lamp 5W Festoon 239 JLM 9590
Map light 6W Festoon 254 JLM 293
Rear direction indicator 21W Bayonet 382 C9126
Rear interior convertible 10W Festoon 272 C31106
Rear interior coupe 6W Festoon 254 JLM 293
Reverse Lamp 2W Festoon 273 JLM 9592
Roof light coupe 10W Festoon 272 C31106
Stop lamp 5W Bayonet 207 JLM 9587
Warning lamp 1.2W Capless 286 C38966
If anyone is still awake at this point and has an owners
manual for an '89 XJ-S, what is the part number? Mine is
JJM 10 02 06/85. Assuming 85 means 1985 this seems a bit
old for an '89 car.
Richard
Richard.Mansell@ps.net
______________________________ Forward Header __________________________________
Subject: XJ-S Headlights
Author: owner-jag-lovers@sn.no%ussmtp at ccx400uk
Date: 06/12/96 10:43
I still haven't gotten a response to the question of what bulbs are
used in the Euro-style headlights on the XJ-S. Surely somebody out
there has such a car. It seems to me it would only require checking
the owner's manual to tell me what bulb is called for. The Jaguar
mail-order catalogs I have don't seem to tell me.
Thanks.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm's Postulate
- ------ =_0_MIME_Boundary_15633.32a88447.im6h5f70.eurh021.eur.ps.net
<Zero length text item>
- ------ =_0_MIME_Boundary_15633.32a88447.im6h5f70.eurh021.eur.ps.net--
------------------------------
From: stephen kurtzman <stephen@kurtzman.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 12:32:17 -0800
Subject: Re: postcards????
>No, it's not! It's a Lotus Elan ripoff! I even heard once that
>Mazda purchased a few Lotus Elan during development. And I talked
>to one owner of a pristine Elan that was really pissed off, everyone
>thinks his car is a plain old Mazda Miata, doesn't give it a second
>look.
I stand corrected.
People do give the XK8 a second or third look. When I was test driving a
coupe, we stopped at a local community college to switch drivers. A lady
walking by did a double talk and then asked "What kind of car is that?". I
said a "Jaguar XK8". Her response was "A Jaguar -- No wonder its so
beautiful."
So, while all the controversy rages around here about what is the true
essence of Jaguar and is that stuff in the XK8, people less concerned about
such things just see a beautiful car.
------------------------------
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #572
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jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 7 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 573
Re: postcards????
Postcard & Jag Hearse
Re: Late 64'XKE Ashtray-which is correct? (fwd)
Rapid Acceleration
Zytek Injection & ignition system (XJ-S)
Re: XJ-S: Headlights
Re: XJ-S Headlights
Digest for E-types
Source for Wire Wheels
XJ-S rear anti-sway bar wanted
In Praise of A Good Spark!
Re: XJ40 Hydraulics
Re: Alignment and Michelins...
GM 400 trans mods
diesel jag
Brake Fluid Leak
Re: Top end Lubrication
Re: Asian Motors
lumpy lists
Re: Miata /Lotus what next?
XJ-S Repair manuals
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: stephen kurtzman <stephen@kurtzman.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 12:37:08 -0800
Subject: Re: postcards????
> Seems that I don't have to respond to anti-XK8 posts any more :-) Good,
>because I was tiring of it. Steve has said it all - thanks!
>
>Mark McChesney
Mark, don't stop defending it yet. I won't be a regular defender of the XK8
because I have been working very long hours and don't have time to read the
Jag mail these days. It was merely an abberation that I was able to read it
today.
Stephen Kurtzman
'95 XJR
'97 XK8 (Red/Coffee convertable; on order; arrives in January)
------------------------------
From: "Himes,John W." <jwh@mime.dw.lucent.com>
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 96 15:14:00 PST
Subject: Postcard & Jag Hearse
I also did check out the postcard, not big deal, just some bla bla bla text
& a pic of a XK-8.
I did send a message to Nick & JoBall@AOL.COM. If my memory serves me
right, it was a red XJ-S that was converted to a black XJ-S Hearse ( not to
be confused with the HE or H & E XJ-S ) and driven off a cliff at the end
of the movie. I just suggested to him to go rent the movie. ( Harold &
Maude )
John Himes
88 XJ-S 99K Miles :-)
------------------------------
From: "Robert J. Richardson" <rrichardson@eurekanet.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 17:40:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Late 64'XKE Ashtray-which is correct? (fwd)
>Thanks to all who responded to my wiring diagram plea - I can start
>chewing on the spaghetti.
>
>Now I need to find/buy the correct radio console for my late 64 OTS and
>find that a number of "knowledgable" people disagree with Haddock ("Jag E-
>Type 6-cylinder restoration & Originality Guide". Haddock claims that the
>last 3.8 (pg 60) had the sliding tray type (like the 4.2) that was
>"likely..." to have been introduced after chassis number 880614/5 (LH,
>OTS). Others say that the rotating "double eared" ashtray was present in
>late year 64's. My chassis number is 881405 and I think that it was
>built about May 64.
>
>Does anybody know for sure which it is so I know what to look for?
>Any for sale?
>
>Tony Clarke
>64 E-Type OTS
>60 XK 150 Drophead
>61 AH 3000
>57 TR-3
I have a 1964 E-type FHC (LHD) that has the sliding tray ashtray. My
serial number is 890630 and there were 214 Fix Heads built before the
switch over to the the 4.2. I estimate my coupe was built in late May or
early June of 1964. It has the vinyl dash covering instead of metal and arm
rests that were carried over to the 4.2. Hope this helps.
------------------------------
From: Mihran Kochyan <hyeem@wwnet.com>
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 19:07:35 -0800
Subject: Rapid Acceleration
Thanks to all of you whom responded regarding my engine problems. I
justd experienced another rapid acceleration problem. The two previous
times, with my wife at the wheel, we were in reverse when the engine
accelerated. This time, I was driving into a car wash and the car took
off.
I checked the mounts, and they seem in order. Has anyone out there had
this problem and if so, what can be done to correct it? The mother
company has been rather uncooperative in helping diagnose and resolve my
problem. My wife and I are at the point where we are afraid to drive the
car.
It is a 92 XJ6 and only has 8,000 miles on it because we are afraid to
drive it.
Please respond through this forum, or e-mail me directly at
hyeem@wwnet.com.
Thanks, Mihran Kochyan
------------------------------
From: John Goodman <101547.1141@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 06 Dec 96 18:06:52 EST
Subject: Zytek Injection & ignition system (XJ-S)
Can anyone offer any help or explanation understanding the Zytek
sequential injection and digital ignition system on my XJR-S 6.0L ???
What is the difference ? The distributor and ECU are not the same as the
standard Marelli. There does not appear to be any crankshaft sensor like
the standard Marelli, but the coil is the same. Also there are two power
resistors on the R/H front inner wing.
I'm still trying to trace this damned occasional intermittent cutting
out ! There was a reference on the list here a little while ago from a
XJ12 owner who reports problems with the distributor pick up to power
amp wires fracturing causing an intermittent fault shutting of six
cylinders ?. Sorry guys, deleted the original message.
Well, my problem seems similar, it was just stopping clean and then
difficult to start, but it's just dropping half or more of it's
cylinders now then dies, tries to start again on half it's cylinders and
eventually fires up and runs fine for a week or so.
John Goodman
'89 XJR-S 6.0L
------------------------------
From: John Goodman <101547.1141@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 06 Dec 96 18:06:49 EST
Subject: Re: XJ-S: Headlights
Kirby,
You wrote:
>>Are you sure it's a dimmed dipped? Seems to me this fits the
description of this "bulb pilot" in the Euro style headlights -- a
separate, low-power bulb.<<
>>This sounds like the kind of flakiness that results from the improper
connection of the bulb failure units. When first turned on, current
backfeeds through the bulb failure unit and powers some other lights
that aren't supposed to be on. After the bulb failure unit warms up,
the connection is broken, which turns some light off and allows
others to get brighter.<<
It is definitely a dimmed dipped beam facility, operates when the
ignition / engine running. Controlled by a relay thingy by the headlamp
fusebox (this on UK cars came in around '86 '87).
It gets all screwed up if you try to install non standard brighter
wattage bulbs 80/100, standard are 55/60 H4's.
I've got a foggy memory here of my first XJ-S, but I think that the
older (pre 1980) headlamps had two separate halogen bulbs (H1's) one for
dip and one for main beams. Either it was factory wired so that both
bulbs were on on main beam or I modified it myself, some one else will
need to confirm this.
Over here <UK> we sometimes call the side or park light bulbs pilot
lights, could this be what your looking for ???
( To Kirby) In "Jaguar World" volume 2 number 2 (winter '89) page 53
there is a clear picture of the air intakes on the radiator top rail
that I described to you some time ago.
John Goodman
------------------------------
From: "Kirbert" <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 18:39:19 -0005
Subject: Re: XJ-S Headlights
> Kirbert wrote:
> > I still haven't gotten a response to the question of what bulbs are
> > used in the Euro-style headlights on the XJ-S.
> >
> Haynes, Pg. 182
>
> Headlamp -
> Main and Dip 411 60/45
> Main Beam Only 411 50
> Halogen H1 55
> N America 15602 37.5/50
Yeah, my Haynes says that too. Note that the Haynes manual covers
both XJ-S and XH12 models and doesn't mention which car the above
guidelines apply to! And it seems to suggest that a #411 is used for
both a main/dip beam light AND a main beam, with different wattages
to boot -- not likely.
I also don't care for the N. America listing, since the N. America
car has two different lights -- a main/dip pair and a main pair.
FYI, the main/dip should be H5006 and the main should be H5001. What
their 15602 number refers to, I dunno.
Hence, I don't trust the whole list.
Did you find the SECOND bulb chart in Haynes? It's on page 331, and
lists #476 for France and a #472 for non-N. America. Huh?
The Jaguar manual lists similar nonsense, indicating one bulb on the
RH side except Japan and another on the LH side except N. America and
France. And it lists that 15602 as the bulb pilot! And the
supplement indicates you're not supposed to be using halogens. Utter
nonsense, all around.
> I'd just look, but my PO was out of the channel so many times that I
> actually have two different Euro Headlamps!
>
> CIBIE 100E lens with 2 seperate Halos and a small bulb on passenger side
> CIBIE 100E H4 lens w/ 1 Halo and 2 small bulbs on the drivers side
Aaaaaaaaaargh!
Nuthin' but c__p from the manuals, no clue as to what's supposed to
be in there -- I know, let's check Kirby's book!
Guess what? It's not _IN_ Kirby's book, because nobody has sent
Kirby any reliable info! The more I look into this issue, the more
imperative it becomes that a clear guideline to the various
headlights installed be added. So, come on guys, let's get some
input here!
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm's Postulate
------------------------------
From: RodPolentz@aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 19:04:22 -0500
Subject: Digest for E-types
First, a short introduction. I own a '62 E-type roadster, flat floors and
welded louvers. In perpetual state of reconstruction. Paint is finished,
engine rebuilt and bolted in car. Still need to clean fuel system, install
interior kit/carpet, replace all suspension bushings and put on new wires and
tyres. Reside in No. California where there is so much nice weather it's
hard to stay home and work in the garage.
Second, a request. A couple days ago someone posted an inquiry looking for a
digest for E-types. Haven't seen a reply on this digest and obviously didn't
receive copies of any private responses. If such a digest exists I would
sure appreciate one of you letting me know the address and how to subscribe.
TIA
Rod S. Polentz (RodPolentz@aol.com)
'62 E-type OTS (Lic. RODS62E)
------------------------------
From: RodPolentz@aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 19:04:22 -0500
Subject: Source for Wire Wheels
Does any one know a source for wire wheels for my '62 E-type other than
British Wire Wheels in No. California? Someone told me he knew of a UK
source that was much cheaper but couldn't remember name or locate his
paperwork. (As you know, the memory is the second thing to go!) TIA
Rod S. Polentz (RodPolentz@aol.com)
'62 E-type OTS in need of new wheels (and much more)
------------------------------
From: Thomas Alberts <talberts@aero.odu.edu>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 19:23:46 -0500 (EST)
Subject: XJ-S rear anti-sway bar wanted
Anyone got a pre 1979.5 XJ-S rear anti-sway bar they'd care to
sell reasonably along with the radius arms, links and whatever
else is needed to install it on a 1987?
Thomas E. Alberts
------------------------------
From: jthorner@prodigy.com ( JOHN T HORNER)
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 17:47:55, -0500
Subject: In Praise of A Good Spark!
- -- [ From: John Horner * EMC.Ver #2.5.3 ] --
I've just finished road testing my conversion from points to a
Crane/Allison electronic ignition on our '67 420G (triple SU 4.2L). I
didn't really expect to notice a driving difference as I had made the
decision to go with the optical/electronic conversion primarily so that
I wouldn't have to putz around with points anymore.
Much to my surprise my first test drive revealed significantly improved
throttle response, improved acceleration, and much smoother running at
all speeds. The improvement was so significant that I'm certain I will
experience reduced exhaust emissions and improved fuel economy as well.
I did notice that with the original setup I was not able to get an
identical point gap reading at each lobe, so part of the problem was
probably from erratic cylinder-to-cylinder timing. The optical setup
slips over the existing cam and pretty much eliminates the effects of
minor wear in the distributor.
For others who are still running higher mileage Lucas point type
distributors you might really want to consider doing this conversion or
another one like it.
The conversion itself was somewhat time consuming and fiddly, but not
difficult. Much of the time involved was of course because I hadn't
done this particular task before. The kit is "universal", so there is a
fair amount of trial and error and adjusting to be done in order to get
everything properly set up.
The wiring from the control unit to the distributor is long enough to
allow tucking the control unit away in a non obvious place. A concourse
judge would of course see it, but our car is first for driving and only
secondarily for showing once in awhile.
John Horner
Morgan Hill, CA
------------------------------
From: Victor Naumann <jagdoc@erols.com>
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 19:16:32 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ40 Hydraulics
Randy Wilson wrote:
>
> >>
> >>How do you dial in more "preload"? A spring with a given weight on it while
> >>compress to a certain calculable length. There by, the upper size seat will
> >>be that amount above the lower seat. If you raise one spring seat, either by
> >>threaded perches or by flipping the cup over, the other seat will move up
> >>the same distance.
> >
> >How do you figure. The upper perch is not touched, the lower one is raised
> >an inch or two.
> >
>
> The spring will push it up. In this case, ti would push the upper seat up,
> taking the whole body with it.
>
> Look at it from the other direction. The upper spring seat is attached to the
> body. Resting on this is a spring. This spring, under the wieght of that
> corner of the car, will be a given length. Next is the lower spring seat,
> which is directly attached to the wheel. If you increase the distance from
> the lower spring seat to the wheel (such as flipping it over), you lower
> the wheel that amount; you do not compress the spring any. Therefore, moving
> a spring seat only changes the relative distance between the two parts the
> spring is holding apart. In this case, it affect the ride height. It does
> not change the load the spring is under. That load, in a static situation,
> is purely a function of the weight of that corner of the vehicle.
>
>
>
> Randy K. Wilson
Randy, If you have the spring and strut assembly on the bench it is X
inches tall. If you remove the spring,flip over the lower seat to raise
it and reinstall the spring , the assembley is still X inches tall with
a spring that is more compressed. The upper spring seat can not move up.
Look at it out of the car and you should see this.
Regards, Vic
------------------------------
From: "Kirbert" <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 19:24:43 -0005
Subject: Re: Alignment and Michelins...
Per Stenius:
> There was a post recently where someone was worried by his Jaguar
> steering slightly to the left. Someone replied that they had their
> doubts of whether the Michelin tires worked fine with the car. I
> don't think the tires are a problem, as i have the Michelin XM4's
> myself and they work perfectly - no problem at all!
When I was shopping for tires, I had a couple shops tell me they
didn't recommend unidirectional treads on a Jaguar because they
supposedly resulted in pulling one way or the other. This made no
sense to me, since unidirectional tires are symmetrical. I wouldn't
even be worried about asymmetrical tires, since the left ones are
supposed to be a mirror image of the right ones.
Anyhow, I ended up buying the Dunlop SP Sport M2's (unidirectional
tread), and while they were being installed I found that they were
NOT symmetrical -- on the INSIDE, not the outside, there is a rib
pattern on one side only. I couldn't see how it would hurt anything,
but at that point, already committed to $700+, I did get plenty
worried -- although I woulda bitched mightily if they hadn't driven
right. But, lo and behold, they are WONDERFUL tires, no pull, no
noise, great performance.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm's Postulate
------------------------------
From: Thomas Alberts <talberts@aero.odu.edu>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 19:29:14 -0500 (EST)
Subject: GM 400 trans mods
Any advice out there on shift kits etc for GM 400. I'd be interested
in testimonials of performance, recommended kits, etc. I anticipate
removing the trans and rebuilding it with new clutch packs etc. The
version of Kirby's book I've got mentions these mods, but doesn't go
into much detail.
Thomas E. Alberts
1987 XJ-S
------------------------------
From: Licensed <jshuck25@mailhost.cinet.co.cn>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 18:15:40 +-800
Subject: diesel jag
I recall hearing about some experimentation jag with a diesel conversion =
back in the early 80's. Remeber when 80% of all Mercedes sold in the =
states were diesel!! john shuck..beijing
------------------------------
From: LumpyJag@aol.com
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 19:42:27 -0500
Subject: Brake Fluid Leak
The low-pressure warning switch on the brake proportioning valve on my XJ6
keeps leaking!
I've put in 2 brand new switches and the leak continues. It seems that the
fluid seeps out of the top where the contact plugs in. The plug has 2 prongs
on the side that fit into a groove on the side of the switch. Is this
arrangement supposed to be leakproof? Are there any "hot tips" to make it
leakproof? I'm just about at the point of putting a blind plug in the hole.
New subject: I told my employer that I could do a lot of work if he got me a
notebook computer to use while waiting for my Jag to be fixed in the shop!
Sometimes that reputation works in our favor?!?!?
Thanks/Chris
------------------------------
From: "Pete Schultz" <pschultz@VAX1.BEMIDJI.MSUS.EDU>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 19:15:10 -0600
Subject: Re: Top end Lubrication
I own an '83 RX-7 which if you don't already know
has a rotary engine in it. The car is constantly
burning oil to lubricate the seals and I have had
absolutely no problem with emissions, i.e. catalytic
converter. Now I am not sure but maybe it is
specially designed for exhaust that has burned oil
mixed in it.
One question I have about the whole thing is weather
or not the oil mixed in with the gas will hinder performance.
Anyway, that is my two cents worth.
Peter Schultz
1976 XJ6L
1983 RX-7
------------------------------
From: sugimoto@sums.shiga-med.ac.jp (Yoshihisa SUGIMOTO)
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 1996 11:26:31 +0900
Subject: Re: Asian Motors
Hello,
At 4:50 PM 96.12.6 +0000, Adam Clark wrote:
>I had trouble following this Miata thread until it occured to me that
>'Miata' must be the US name for what is marketed to us Brits as the Mazda
>MX-5. Am I right?
Sure, you're right.
>And that's not all - I saw a photo of a recently-manufactured Japanese
>car of the in-vogue retro-mobile type which was a clear and shameless
>copy of a MKII Jag saloon.
Probably you're mentioning of Mitsuoka Viewt. This manufacturer is a
so-called backyard builder. The fiberglass body is modified from Nissan
March. It's a shameless thing but it's not a mass-production model. More
shameless cars I think are Nissan's series of retro-tasted cars, i.e. Pao,
Figaro, Be-1 and S-cargo. A large car manufacturer like Nissan should not
produce this kind of clear rip offs.
However, Mazda Miata/MX-5 is a modernized light-weight sports car which
happed to be born in Japan, with a lot of efforts of Mazda's young
engineers, of course.
- --
Y. Sugimoto
1963 Jaguar Mk. 2 (restoring), 1958 Austin-Healey Sprite Mk 1, 1996 MG-F.
http://www.shiga-med.ac.jp/people/sugimoto's/
------------------------------
From: charles daly <cdaly@passport.ca>
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 21:49:44 -0500
Subject: lumpy lists
Stephen Stewart wrote, in part,
>Its good to see Charles Daly's humour again, I thought we had lost him to the
>E-type list.
Hi Stewart et al,
Thanks for the words.
I've never left jag-lovers!
Nor would I.
I'm finding the list split not to my liking,
most of my friends seem to be here, on jag-lovers,
yet there is very little content for me to take a shot
at! :>)
Anyway, re: the postcards -I found a site on www from
where you can send, @ n/c, to anyone with e-mail from
a large, very nice selection. Someone sent us all the XK8.
Not sure why this offended some. ??
Kinda nice to have someone send me an 8!!!
(still waiting to d/l the keys.)
- -I didn't send the postcard, BTW.
2nd BTW, is there a secret way to reply to a mail on
the digest version? I've been cutting and pasting so much
that my screen is all sticky!
(damn white-out is expensive!)
Regards to all,
Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
'62 E-Type, ots, flat floor.
-------------------------------------------------------------
"Laugh? I thought I'd die!"
A. Boleyn
-------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
From: Don Tracey <dont@echuca.net.au>
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 13:57:54 -0700
Subject: Re: Miata /Lotus what next?
>
> From: "Kirbert" <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
> Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 11:51:52 -0005
> Subject: Re: postcards????
>
> Steve:
> > > ...the Mazda Miata is an MG rip off.
>
> No, it's not! It's a Lotus Elan ripoff! I even heard once that
> Mazda purchased a few Lotus Elan during development. And I talked
> to one owner of a pristine Elan that was really pissed off, everyone
> thinks his car is a plain old Mazda Miata, doesn't give it a second
> look.
>
> -- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
> | some rules must be broken.
> | - Palm's Postulate
>
> ------------------------------
>
> From: Adam Clark <aclark@internal.brann.co.uk>
> Date: Fri, 06 Dec 96 16:50:00 G
> Subject: Asian Motors
>
> I had trouble following this Miata thread until it occured to me that
> 'Miata' must be the US name for what is marketed to us Brits as the Mazda
> MX-5. Am I right?
>
> Anyway, the Miata/MX-5 wide-mouthed frog grin is pure E-type. Is this a
> rip-off or a homage? Depends on your level of tolerance. I read somewhere
> that the MX-5 designers listened to dozens of exhaust pipe notes from
> classic Brit roadsters to get the growl just right. That's attention to
> detail.
>
> What the Japanese/Pacific Rim car manufacturers are good at is producing
> the kind of affordable, attractive, driveable, reliable sports cars that
> are no longer manufactured in Europe.
>
> And that's not all - I saw a photo of a recently-manufactured Japanese
> car of the in-vogue retro-mobile type which was a clear and shameless
> copy of a MKII Jag saloon.
>
> I await the Series III rip-off, so authentically sourced that the cabin
> fills with petrol fumes and the motor leaks oil like the Exxon Valdez.
>
> Adam Clark
>
>
> From: bsawyer@mint.net (Bruce Sawyer)
> Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 15:20:45 -0500
> Subject: Asian rip offs !!!
>
> Hope I don't bring down the wrath of GOD but,I feel I must put my two cents
> in here. Currently I own and run the following: 56 MGA 1500, 70 Citroen DS
> 21, 85 VDP, 90 Saab 900t Conv, 95 Miata M edition and 96 Ford Explorer. In
> the past I have owned several British sportcars from MGBs to TR6s and am
> currently on my second Miata. I gotta tell ya the Miata is the best British
> Sports Car I have ever owned (it is unforunate that it took the Japanese to
> build it). Much of the design work was done both here in the States and IAD
> in UK. At least the Japanese knew where to go to give the Miata its soul.
>
> Who cares about all the rest.... who copied what, when, etc. Let's just
> celebrate the fact that there are still auto companies that will spend the
> needed time and funds to produce what to the average motorist (the
> appliance owner) must seem like a complete waste of metal. As well as the
> fact that there are people like you and I that see the light.
>
> ------------------------------
>
Reported recently on the net
LOTUS-EATING
Proton, a Malaysian car maker, is paying 51m ($83m) for a 64% stake in
Lotus,a British car maker best known for its luxurious sports cars.
I also saw where one of the Korean makers had brought the (design?)
rights to the last little Lotus sports that the MX5(Miata)ran out of
business ,can't remember the model name.
Don Tracey
50 Mk5 (in bits)
58 xk150(in bits)
60 Mk2(in bits too)
Australia
------------------------------
From: Thomas Alberts <talberts@aero.odu.edu>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 22:16:36 -0500 (EST)
Subject: XJ-S Repair manuals
Sorry if this subject has been exhausted already, but I am curious
about the different repair manuals available for XJ-S. There are
at least 3 that I know of:
1.) Chad Bolles says he can sell me a 4 volume set covering 76-91 XJ-S
for $230.
2.) SIPC has an official Jaguar manual for 1975 to 1988.5 which says it
"includes HE suppliment" for $109.95. Part # YJWS, 420 pages.
3.) Haynes sells a manual (which I've survived 3 years on) which is
supposed to cover 1972 thru 1985 XJ12 and XJ-S and includes an HE
suppliment as well, for around $15. 410 pages
So my question is, what am I missing by having only Haynes? Is the
four volume set worth the extra $215 over Haynes or $120 over the
other XJ-S repair manual available from SICP?
Tesimonials?
Thomas E. Alberts
1987 XJ-S
------------------------------
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #573
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jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 7 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 574
Dynomation Simulator
Part V of "How I Found My Jag"
Part V of "How I Found My Jag"
Postcards
Re: XJ-S Repair manuals
Re: Brake Fluid Leak
Book Reviews
Re: XJ40 Hydraulics
Re: Alignment and Michelins...
Re: Asian rip offs !!!
Re: Hydraulic System Mineral Oil
Postcard...1 last time!
Re: e-type conversion
Re: Postcard & Jag Hearse
Re: Postcards
RE: Rapid Acceleration
postcard virus claim is a hoax.
Re: Jaguar Hearse
Re:Source for Wire Wheels
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Michael Frank <mfrank@westnet.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 22:20:09 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Dynomation Simulator
If anyone is building a serious racing engine, vist the following web site:
http://www.public.iastate.edu/~punk/dynomation/dma.html
This belongs to a group selling Dynomation, a 4-cycle engine performance
simulation program. With just a PC and this program, you can select cams,
manifolds, carburetion, and exhaust systems which can help your engine
deliver the performance you seek.
I have downloaded the demo, and will be playing with it over the weekend.
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
------------------------------
From: brett ferguson <howard@calweb.com>
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 19:48:23 -0800
Subject: Part V of "How I Found My Jag"
By this time I knew I was about to make a great coup on the deal. I
had visited my bank and learned that I couldn't withdraw more than
10,000$ at a time. Stupidly, I didn't think to take out 9,999 and save
the hassle of filling out an IRS required form. I knew I would
immediately replace the money in the TSAs I had withdrawn money from
when I received the check from an annuity. No problem anticipated with
Uncle Sam's tax department. Anyway I had all my financial shit together
and was eager to cinch the deal. I was on my way to meet the present
owner.
We met at the body shop. He was late arriving by about 40 minutes.
He hops out of his new gold Bronco and apologizes for lateness. We walk
into the shop to view the XKE with a paint job that he is seeing for the
first time. He gasps and says "Wow, she looks gorgeous" Understatement
of the week. I can tell that he's having second thoughts about selling
her, at least at the agreed-upon-price. My heart beats a little faster.
------------------------------
From: brett ferguson <howard@calweb.com>
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 20:02:39 -0800
Subject: Part V of "How I Found My Jag"
By this time I had my financial shit together and was eager to close the deal. I had a
couple of paper bags stuffed with 28,000$ and another with Tom's finder's fee. I was
sure that I was practically stealing the car. The owner was on his way to meet me and
pick up the cash. A nifty paperwork move was going to save me hundreds on registration
fees, which are ridiculous in this state. The mechanic's report was good, he recommended
a few things that should be done in the future, nothing immediate.
The owner shows up a little lat and sees his black beauty for the first time with her
new paint job.
------------------------------
From: Gerald Foster <SKY182@postoffice.worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 1996 04:59:33 +0000
Subject: Postcards
Don't download this mail. This is a virus Email called Ho Ho Ho Merry
Christmas. It has a hidden line of code that activates after you boot your
computer any time after Dec. 24th 96.
It activates then and causes the line "Ho Ho Ho Merry Christmas" to be
written all over your hard drive. If you have downloaded, it is too late,
Christmas day when you boot up you'll have the Merry Christmas virus. Good
luck on getting it off.
------------------------------
From: Randy Wilson <randy@taylor.infi.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 1996 00:08:30 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S Repair manuals
>
>So my question is, what am I missing by having only Haynes? Is the
>four volume set worth the extra $215 over Haynes or $120 over the
>other XJ-S repair manual available from SICP?
>
>Tesimonials?
>
>Thomas E. Alberts
>1987 XJ-S
You are welcome to stop by my shop some time and take a wander through
the 4 volume set.
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
------------------------------
From: Randy Wilson <randy@taylor.infi.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 1996 00:11:22 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Brake Fluid Leak
>
>
>The low-pressure warning switch on the brake proportioning valve on my XJ6
>keeps leaking!
>I've put in 2 brand new switches and the leak continues. It seems that the
>fluid seeps out of the top where the contact plugs in. The plug has 2 prongs
>on the side that fit into a groove on the side of the switch. Is this
>arrangement supposed to be leakproof? Are there any "hot tips" to make it
>leakproof? I'm just about at the point of putting a blind plug in the hole.
>
>Thanks/Chris
Start the engine, hold it off idle (around 1500) and feel/listen to the
high pressure hose for pulsing. this is a fairly common thing... it's
caused by the charge switch failing; overpressurizing the system. The
pulsing is from the relief valve dumping.
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
------------------------------
From: Michael Frank <mfrank@westnet.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 1996 00:31:41 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Book Reviews
Nick:
These are the first reviews. I have about 30 books, 7 catalogs, and a few
pamphlets on the Jag shelf, mostly E-Type related, but some general Jag
interest...so this project may take a few weeks to complete.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ------
Title: Jaguar the Enduring Legend
Autor: Edited by John Phillips
Publisher: Smithmark Publishers, New York, 1991
ISBN: 0 831751274
Format: Extra Oversize, color, 160 pages, 150 photos
One of my favorite coffee table books. This is a history of the Jaguar
marque, from the Austin Swallow to the XJ40. The history, by the author's
own admission, is lightweight, meant more for entertainment that documentary
value. The real charm of this book are the amazing photographs....detailed,
large format, full color pictures of most Jaguar and SS models. The photos
are largely schoolboy-dream exterior shots, with a few detailed engine bay
shots. If you only own one Jag book, this is probably not it, but it is a
book sure to entertain and please the serious collector.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- --------
Title: Jaguar
Author: Paul Skilleter
Publisher: Grange Books, London, 1993
ISBN: 1 85627 24 6
Format: Oversize, color, 70 pages, about 80 photos
Another coffee table book. A brief history of the company, from inception
thru the 1990's. No surprises in the text. Many fine exterior photos, a few
engine bays....a familiar format. Not recommeded.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -------
Title: Refining the Sports Car: Jaguar's E-Type
Author: Museum of Modern Art, New York
Publisher: Museum of Modern Art, New York, 1996
ISBN: None
Format: Pamphlet, color, 16 pages, 13 photos
This is the handout from the Museum's induction of the E-Type into the
permanent collection. It is a loving little biography of everyone's favorite
car. The few photos are really well chosen, including half-tone styling
studies, prototype cars, and pages from Malcom Sayer's journal. Also a few
shots of the Museum's perfect show car. This will be a rarity, so if you can
get to the Museum, get a copy. If you can't, write them and see if they will
mail you a copy. Well worth having.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ---------
Title: Anouncing the Official Precision Replica of the Ultimate Jaguar Classic.
Author: Franklin Mint, Philadelphia
Publisher: Franklin Mint, Philadelphia, 1996
ISBN: None
Format: Flyer, color, 6 pages, 9 photos
This is the advertising flyer for the Franklin Mint's E-Type Coupe model.
It contains a brief history of the car and technical specifications. The
photos are close ups of the Franklin mint model, which look almost like the
real thing. If you are near one of the Franklin Mint mall stores, you can
get this one for free, and it is a nice to have.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- --------
Title: Original Jaguar E-Type
Author: Phillip Porter
ISBN:1 870979 12 5
Publisher: Bay View Boooks LTD Bideford, Devon, England, 1994
Format: Oversize, color, 95 pages, about 110 photos
This attempts to provide detailed photographic documentation for the
restorer. While it has many beautiful and detailed photos, it falls short of
being a comprehensive restoration reference. This is especially
disappointing since the author is perhaps the foremost authority in the
world on this subject. The text concentrates on documenting the 'correct'
appearance of original E's of all three and a half vintages. But it leaves
much ambiguity and confusion. For example, in the section on Series 1 front
suspension, the text reads "The dampers were finished in Girling blue." The
photo of the "original" suspension directly opposite has Koni red dampers.
The photos are beautiful, but IMHO, these cars are all over-restored, and
not reference examples. Information on production changes, manufactured
quantities, and technical specs. A good book to have, but not the first to
put on the shelf.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -----
Title: Jaguar: The Complete Works
Author: Nigel Thoreley
Publisher: Bay View Books, LTD, Bideford, Devon, England, 1996
ISBN: 1 870979 69 9
Format: Slightly oversize, color, 160 pages, About 210 photos
This book is a serious history of Jaguar and SS. It has a chapter devoted
to each of the major models, with details of history, manufacturing, and
specification. Many excellent photos, including some shots of the assembly
line, and a photo of the aftermath of the 1957 fire. Shouldn't be your only
book, but it works on the coffee table.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----------
Title: Jaguar 6 Cylinder Engine Overhaul
Autor: Jaguar World
Publisher: Kelsey Publishing LTD, Beckenham, Kent, England, 1995
ISBN: 1 873098 32 4
Format: Oversize, soft cover, color, 86 pages, about 250 photos
This is a how-to-do-it book. It is a compendium of Jaguar World serialized
articles on the subject. Step by step we are led thru the removal, strip
down and rebuilding of the XK engine. Operations are photgraphically
documented in excruciating detail. Also covered are the independent rear
suspension unit, and SU carburetors. A must have book, if you plan to do it
yourself.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----------
Title: E-Type Jaguar Restoration
Author: Pracical Classics
Publisher: Kelsey Publishing LTD, Beckenham, Kent, England, 1991
ISBN: 1873098 03 0
Format: Oversize, softcover, color, 106 pages, about 300 photos.
Another do-it-yourself book from Kelsey. This time, an awful E-Type is
restored to near perfection. The book attempts to follow the ground up every
step of the way, but the task is so huge, that many details are missed. For
example, carpets and trim are glossed over, yet an excruciatingly detailed
description is given of how a cracked engine block was repaired. I would bet
that many of us have replaced all or part of an interior, but not one of us
has attempted to weld a block. Still, a must have book, if you are seriously
into restoring it on your own.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----------
Title: Jaguar 4.2 Litre 'E' Type Series 2 Operating, Maintenance and Service
Handbook
Author: Jaguar Cars
Publisher: Jaguar Cars LTD Coventry, England (reproduced 1995)
ISBN: none
Format: pamphlet, black and white, 80 pages, about 120 drawings and photos
The handbook that came with the car. All the obvious stuff. The Repro
edition comes with two handy wall charts: a complete electrical schematic,
and a lubrication guide. If you have the car, of course you should have a
copy. Repros are sold thru all the major Jag dealers.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -----------
Title: SU Carburetters Tuning Tips & Techniques
Author: G R Wade
Publisher: Brooklands Books, LTD, Cobham, Surrey, England 1994
ISBN: 1 85520 2557
Format: Regular size, softcover, black and white, 190 pages, about 150 line
drawings
Detailed information on SU Carburettors. This includes, history, design,
tuning, rebuilding and trouble shooting. Tables of needle applications and
piston spring specs. The definitive reference book on the subject. How to
select a needle, rebuild your carbs, etc. Bonus: similar information on SU
fuel pumps. If you have an SU, you need this book. Stromberg owners may also
find the general discussion of constant-depression carbs useful.
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Nick, that's all I have time for tonight. I'm not even 1/4 way down the
shelf. More to follow................
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
------------------------------
From: Randy Wilson <randy@taylor.infi.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 1996 00:19:39 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ40 Hydraulics
>> The spring will push it up. In this case, ti would push the upper seat up,
>> taking the whole body with it.
>>
>> Look at it from the other direction. The upper spring seat is attached to the
>> body. Resting on this is a spring. This spring, under the wieght of that
>> corner of the car, will be a given length. Next is the lower spring seat,
>> which is directly attached to the wheel. If you increase the distance from
>> the lower spring seat to the wheel (such as flipping it over), you lower
>> the wheel that amount; you do not compress the spring any. Therefore, moving
>> a spring seat only changes the relative distance between the two parts the
>> spring is holding apart. In this case, it affect the ride height. It does
>> not change the load the spring is under. That load, in a static situation,
>> is purely a function of the weight of that corner of the vehicle.
>>
>>
>>
>> Randy K. Wilson
>Randy, If you have the spring and strut assembly on the bench it is X
>inches tall. If you remove the spring,flip over the lower seat to raise
>it and reinstall the spring , the assembley is still X inches tall with
>a spring that is more compressed. The upper spring seat can not move up.
>Look at it out of the car and you should see this.
>Regards, Vic
Vic, please note I AM not talking about the strut in a vise with the spring
pushing against a mechanical stop; the droop limit. We are talking installed
in the car. A given spring with the weight of a car on it will be a given
length. Flipping the spring seat over will only raise the ride height. It
will not change the preload. It will not change the spring rate. Only the
ride height changes... until you shim it to the point that you do hit a
mechanical limit.
The biggest thing that happens when you put the strut assembly on the bench
is the vehicle ride goes all to hell.
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
------------------------------
From: Randy Wilson <randy@taylor.infi.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 1996 01:06:23 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Alignment and Michelins...
>
>
>There was a post recently where someone was worried by his Jaguar steering
>slightly to the left. Someone replied that they had their doubts of whether
>the Michelin tires worked fine with the car. I don't think the tires are a
>problem, as i have the Michelin XM4's myself and they work perfectly - no
>problem at all! I have had the car properly aligned, and the tires balanced and
>it all works like a dream. However, I would not be too worried if the car
>displays occasional steering to the left - this can be caused just by the road
>being slanted etc.
I did not say that the Mich's were the problem. I said that I have run into
such problems with them often, and I have yet to see a set work correctly
on a SIII sedan. There is something about the way the cars drive with them
that just is not quite right... a feel. I can tell a SIII with Michelins
just by driving it... don't even have to get out and look. I theorize that
it has to do with the natural frequencies of the Michelin carcass being
a lot higher than the designed for Pirellis, but only have seat-of-the-pants
data.
>--
>_______________________________________________________________________________
>Per Stenius (http://www.ece.ucsb.edu/SQO/Per/)
>Email: per@quantum.ece.ucsb.edu
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
------------------------------
From: Randy Wilson <randy@taylor.infi.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 1996 01:12:31 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Asian rip offs !!!
>
>
>How can anyone say the Miata is a rip off of a Lotus. I never saw a lotus
>"jelly bean car". The Lotus is a prety car. The Miata is a "jelly bean
>car" like the Taurus and the XK-8.
>
The Miata is a jelly-bean'd Elan. Park the two side by side and the
similarities are striking. And that's only from the outside. Open the
hood. Madza went so far as to design their engine such that the rubber
timing belt cover looks like a timing chain case... aka the chain driven
Lotus twinkie.
I'm still a bit befuddled why they did not try to make the intake and
air box look like a set of DCOEs. :>
>Or have I missed a new version of the Lotus that looks like the Japaneese
>"jelly beans"?
The short lived "new" Elan.
> JIM I.
>
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
------------------------------
From: Randy Wilson <randy@taylor.infi.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 1996 01:16:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Hydraulic System Mineral Oil
>
>
>Quick question.
>
> I have an 88 VDP (XJ40) that has the power fluid low indicator on. I think
>this is refering to the hydraulic oil for the power brakes (not brake fluid) and
>also for the auto leveling system (but mine has been replaced with regular
>shocks). The manual says use only Jaguar or Castrol Hydraulic System Mineral
>Oil. My delima is that it's friday night and I have to leave on a trip before
>Monday when the Jaguar dealer opens up. Any body know what this might be sold
>as in Germany and maybe where I can get some on a weekend? It sure would help
>me out. Thanks in advance
>
>Craig Hastings
>88 VDP (with no power brakes)
>61 OTS (OBL)
This is based on US spec cars. Mid-80's Audi 5000's (euro 200's ?) used a
hydraulic booster with a similar fluid. I have no suggestions on how to get
the fluid into the Jag reservoir without the aid of Jag's custom bottle
injector. Do not try to remove the black plastic "cap". It's permanently
attached, and it will break.
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
------------------------------
From: "Donald R. Farr" <d.farr@phx.cox.com>
Date: Fri, 06 Dec 1996 23:30:36 -0700
Subject: Postcard...1 last time!
Gerald Foster said...
> Don't download this mail. This is a virus Email called Ho Ho Ho Merry
> Christmas. It has a hidden line of code that activates after you
> boot your computer any time after Dec. 24th 96.
The truth is that the card is posted on a Jaguar site from the
manufacturer of the car we all love.... If this is a virus, then I'll
happily have HO HO HO written all over my screen because whoever took
the time to create it fooled Jaguar Motor Company into putting it on
one of their elaborate sites.
This site also allows you to find dealers, see the Sovereign magazine
published by Jaguar and sign their guest book.
Gerald, if you still think this is a virus, I'd like to know the
source of your information and what gives you the assurance that it
is indeed a virus.
don farr
91 Sovereign
Paradise Valley, Arizona USA
------------------------------
From: Randy Wilson <randy@taylor.infi.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 1996 01:22:12 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: e-type conversion
>
>
>Steve,
>
>There have been quite a few of these conversions done in New Zealand. I
>have heard that you can simply turn the steering rack over on some E types
>but I'm not sure if this is true and for which ones. There is a place in
>John McDonagh
Turning the rack over will result in a car that turns right to left steering
inputs, and visa-versa. Not a very intuitive setup. :>
With the steering arms/rack in front of the axle centerline, such as the
E-type, the pinion must be below the rack, no matter which side of the
car it's on. This requires a mirror image rack.
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
------------------------------
From: Randy Wilson <randy@taylor.infi.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 1996 01:32:56 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Postcard & Jag Hearse
>I did send a message to Nick & JoBall@AOL.COM. If my memory serves me
>right, it was a red XJ-S that was converted to a black XJ-S Hearse ( not to
>be confused with the HE or H & E XJ-S ) and driven off a cliff at the end
>of the movie. I just suggested to him to go rent the movie. ( Harold &
>Maude )
It was an E-type. If I remember correctly, the movie predates the XJS
release by a few years.
>
>John Himes
>88 XJ-S 99K Miles :-)
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
------------------------------
From: Mike Morrin <mikem@southern.co.nz>
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 21:02:33 +1200
Subject: Re: Postcards
Dear fellow Jaguar enthusiasts,
I have no idea whether there is such a thing as the "Merry Christmas
virus", but I do know that there is no such thing as a virus email.
An email is a text file with some headers which tell your computer where
it came from etc. The only way that I know of putting a hidden line of
code is an email is if the email contains a java script, or a pointer to
a java script, and this can only work if the email is veiwed using
Netscape or some other Java capable platform WITH JAVA PROCESSING
ENABLED.
If you are using almost any other email package there is no danger at
all (unless you download an attachment and then try to execute it).
Gerald does not actually specify which email should not be downloaded,
but if he is referring to the "postcard" email, then this contains no
such hidden code. Neither does the HTML document pointed to in the
email.
I am posting this to save people who are not particularly computer
literate from worrying themselves excessively about what is very
probably a hoax.
Now, if my understanding is correct, then either:
1. Gerald Foster is the victim of a hoax himself, and has unwittingly
spread it further.
2. Gerald has originated the hoax himself (it is notable that he quotes
no reputable source of his information about the virus).
Alternatively I could be wrong, in which case I expect to be flamed to
hell.
Decide for yourselves.
regards,
Mike Morrin
75 XJ-S
58 XK150
Gerald Foster wrote:
>
> Don't download this mail. This is a virus Email called Ho Ho Ho Merry
> Christmas. It has a hidden line of code that activates after you boot your
> computer any time after Dec. 24th 96.
> It activates then and causes the line "Ho Ho Ho Merry Christmas" to be
> written all over your hard drive. If you have downloaded, it is too late,
> Christmas day when you boot up you'll have the Merry Christmas virus. Good
> luck on getting it off.
------------------------------
From: Licensed <jshuck25@mailhost.cinet.co.cn>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 1996 09:44:05 +-800
Subject: RE: Rapid Acceleration
ain't no such thing....put your left foot on the brake....john shuck..beijing
- ----------
From: Mihran Kochyan[SMTP:hyeem@wwnet.com]
Sent: Saturday, December 07, 1996 11:07 AM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Rapid Acceleration
Thanks to all of you whom responded regarding my engine problems. I
justd experienced another rapid acceleration problem. The two previous
times, with my wife at the wheel, we were in reverse when the engine
accelerated. This time, I was driving into a car wash and the car took
off.
I checked the mounts, and they seem in order. Has anyone out there had
this problem and if so, what can be done to correct it? The mother
company has been rather uncooperative in helping diagnose and resolve my
problem. My wife and I are at the point where we are afraid to drive the
car.
It is a 92 XJ6 and only has 8,000 miles on it because we are afraid to
drive it.
Please respond through this forum, or e-mail me directly at
hyeem@wwnet.com.
Thanks, Mihran Kochyan
------------------------------
From: TezFair@aol.com
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 1996 05:47:19 -0500
Subject: postcard virus claim is a hoax.
Hi Chums,
I changed the time in my bios and there is no HO HO HO's (its currently
boxing day on my pc)
The XK8 is to damn popular <g>. We're working 6 days a week plus overtime in
the evening. 5800 engines fitted so far by moi.
Terry Fairbrother
Don't own a Jag yet - just drives them at the factory
http://members.aol.com/tezfair/ford.html
------------------------------
From: Michael Frank <mfrank@westnet.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 1996 08:38:34 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Jaguar Hearse
John:
It was a jet black E-Type. And it went over the cliff at the end of the movie.
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type
------------------------------
From: Michael Frank <mfrank@westnet.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 1996 08:40:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re:Source for Wire Wheels
Rod:
There are probably a lot of UK sources for wires. You can certainly get
wires (as well as a lot of other stuff) from:
SC Parts Group Ltd
13 Cobham Way
Gatwick Road
Crawley, West Sussex RH10 2RX
01293 547841
01293 546570 (fax)
I think the best bet is to watch Hemmings: there always seems to be someone,
somewhere stuck with a extra wheel or a whole set...and ready to part with
it cheap.
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
>Does any one know a source for wire wheels for my '62 E-type other than
>British Wire Wheels in No. California? Someone told me he knew of a UK
>source that was much cheaper but couldn't remember name or locate his
>paperwork. (As you know, the memory is the second thing to go!) TIA
------------------------------
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #574
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jag-lovers-digest Sunday, 8 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 575
Dare I say the E word?
Re: postcards????
Re: Postcard...1 last time!
ratio vs. heart
Re: Postcard...1 last time!
Substitutions 84 XJ6
Current 84 XJ6 Problems
84 XJ6 Queries - Lubricants, tire rotation, and whatis/whereis
Re: Dare I say the E word?
Importing to Australia ?
Re: Postcard...1 last time!
Re: Miata /Lotus what next?
Re:Digest for E-types
'91-XJ6 Rear Suspension
Tyres or Tires, whichever you prefer
More Reviews
climate control
jag magazines
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: charles daly <cdaly@passport.ca>
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 09:26:22 -0500
Subject: Dare I say the E word?
John Himes wrote, in part;
> If my memory serves me right, it was a red XJ-S that
>was converted to a black XJ-S Hearse ( not to be confused
>with the HE or H & E XJ-S ) and driven off a cliff at the end
>of the movie. I just suggested to him to go rent the movie. ( Harold &
>Maude )
John & all,
See what spitting the list does!
There are more threads on here about Miata's than
E-Types -Arrrgghhhh!!!!
Harold's car (Harold & Maude) was an E coupe (or 2+2)
not a XJ-S! (I'm here defending the E word!)
John, come on over and we'll watch it...I have it taped as
exhibit 1.
Also have Italian Job where Michael Caine's Miata gets
trashed by a front-end loader. :>)
Regards anyway,
Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
'62 E-Type, ots, flat floor.
-------------------------------------------------------------
"Laugh? I thought I'd die!"
A. Boleyn
-------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
From: Thorsten_Ploss@magicvillage.de (Thorsten Ploss)
Date: 06 Dec 1996 07:22:28 GMT
Subject: Re: postcards????
Juliansean@aol.com,Internet schreibt:
>What is this post card stuff about????
>Is anyone else getting notices about postcards with acceptance numbers?
>Julian Mullaney
I got also one. It�s from Jaguar UK. What was the content of yours? My one
was like an introduction to this list :-?
Thorsten (gato verde)
------------------------------
From: John Goodman <101547.1141@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 07 Dec 96 12:12:47 EST
Subject: Re: Postcard...1 last time!
Donald and all,
Donald wrote:
>>The truth is that the card is posted on a Jaguar site from the
manufacturer of the car we all love.... If this is a virus, then I'll
happily have HO HO HO written all over my screen because whoever took
the time to create it fooled Jaguar Motor Company into putting it on
one of their elaborate sites. <<
>>This site also allows you to find dealers, see the Sovereign magazine
published by Jaguar and sign their guest book.<<
Maybe as Jaguar Cars, or an employee of Jaguar has taken the time to
send "these postcards" to us, the Jag - Lovers list members collectively
it could just be their subtle way of letting us all know that they are
watching this space and listening to us !!!
Just think about it, recent threads about XK8, Nicosil and public
reaction about their new (and past products) could be very useful to
them. Especially when a few more members have bought XK8's, XJR's and
"the little problems" start appearing on the list. This all takes time
to filter through the usual dealer networks.
Consider also that we are all enthusiasts here, and the high level of
feedback Jaguar Cars could glean from us may be better than a
questionnaire sent out to "Mr. Average Owner" who don't understand or
recognise a potential "little problem"
All this possible (free) feedback seems a one way trade, what we need is
some direct help sometimes from Jaguar !!1
John Goodman
'89 XJR-S 6.0L
------------------------------
From: Stiens@t-online.de (Peter Stiens)
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 18:43:27 -0800
Subject: ratio vs. heart
Bob Hardison wrote:
> ...a 420 (S-type),and my current daily driver, a '90
> Sovereign. I have loved and hated each in its own way,...
Hi Bob,
i own a 420 Daimler Sovereign, which one i used daily for more than 2 years and i would like to know,
what you liked and what you hated.
Let me discuss a point, that is as old as my love to jaguars: should i drive one daily or not. That is a battle
between ratio and heart.
At the moment i drive a 535 BMW for daily use; a car that is really perfect, including CD-Player, aircondition,
some kind of "leather seats" (what the bavarian call leather), traction control, anti-blocking-system and all
the things they build into cars today BUT: i still love my 420 Daimler and i often think of rebuilding it - the
body ist very bad - for daily use.
My heart often asks me, if i really need things like traction control and so on. The releiability of the 420
was great. But there are facts - here in germany - that prevent me from doing so:
The insurance, the taxes and the petrol is SO expensive, you nearly can't afford it.
So, the battle goes on: ratio says, run the BMW and my desire is to drive the 420 Daimler.
what shall i do?
regards,
peter stiens
------------------------------
From: "Kirbert" <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 1996 13:27:57 -0005
Subject: Re: Postcard...1 last time!
John Goodman:
> Maybe as Jaguar Cars, or an employee of Jaguar has taken the time
> to send "these postcards" to us, the Jag - Lovers list members
> collectively it could just be their subtle way of letting us all
> know that they are watching this space and listening to us !!!
Hahahahaha!
> Just think about it, recent threads about XK8, Nicosil and public
> reaction about their new (and past products) could be very useful
> to them.
Hahahahahahahahaha!
> Especially when a few more members have bought XK8's, XJR's and
> "the little problems" start appearing on the list. This all takes
> time to filter through the usual dealer networks.
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!
> All this possible (free) feedback seems a one way trade, what we
> need is some direct help sometimes from Jaguar !!
HAHAHAHOHOHOHAHAHAHEEHEEHEEHOHOHAHA!
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm's Postulate
------------------------------
From: albrecht@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 1996 10:33:55 -0800
Subject: Substitutions 84 XJ6
- ------Begin forward message-------------------------
Return-Path: <albrecht@austin.ibm.com>
John Albrecht
albrecht@ix.netcom.com
1984 XJ6
Trying append again...shorter note, hope sequence stays intact.
John
PART SUBSTITUTION:
(As of 11/96, for 84 XJ6)
Parts/prices are from an
Autozone Store in Texas.
a) fuel filter FF761 Autozone $10 US
b) oil filter D439 Deutsch $ 3 US
(claims exceptional filtering)
c) O2 sensor 11035 Bosch $29 US
(connector needs to be changed)
d) Interior side GE211-2 $ 2 US
courtesy lights (MUCH brighter and they
DON'T melt the lenses)
IGNITION SWITCH RELIABILITY CHECK:
You may want to feel for hot-spots yourself
even if your switch is working fine at the moment.
I have found hot-spots and carbonization on jaguar
connectors a common and disturbing problem.
Check switch wiring where wires connect to the
switch itself. Look for signs of burning/carbon.
Feel back of switch while car is running and soon
after turning over the starter motor (Careful...I
got burned when I first did this). If too hot to
touch and hold, you may have a problem. The fix
is to completely refurbish the ignition switch
contacts (requires disassembly...I think I used a
small drill and grinder), re-do the connections,
clean-out the carbon, and fortify the enclosure (I
used some epoxy and plastic tie-strips to tighten
and strengthen the assembly). As I recall, I also
had to use a high-speed hand grinding tool to
reshape and 'create' one of the internal contact
points. Been working great for over 2 years now.
The key is to ensure the connections are
rock-solid and the internal contacts provide a
very low-resistance.
I had built a wiring/switch assembly whereby I can
unplug the key switch from the harness and connect
my assembly for emergency use. I built it because
there had been a few times when my ignition switch
didn't work unless I turned the key "just right".
This saved me considerable time and discomfort
when my ignition switch finally died (before I
fixed it) in 5 degF weather in a little town about
80 miles from home in the middle of nowhere.
Plug-in the substitute assembly, use the correct
switch sequencing, and I'm on my way. It didn't
matter that the ignition switch was a carbonized
mass of melted connections. Total cost of the
substitute was about $5.
I can only wonder what the man at the quick-stop
gas station thought as he watched me 'hot-wire'
a jaguar.
- ------End forward message---------------------------
------------------------------
From: albrecht@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 1996 10:36:10 -0800
Subject: Current 84 XJ6 Problems
- ------Begin forward message-------------------------
John Albrecht
albrecht@ix.netcom.com
1984 XJ6
Trying again with shorter note, broken into areas of interest.
CURRENT PROBLEMS:
1) Have minor air-flow CONSTANTLY through all
vents (except center when flap closed). Appears
to be outside air, and after car has been
running awhile is fairly warm...even if the air
conditioning has been running. Even when A/C or
HEAT are OFF, I get a constant light flow of
air. Have been unable to locate source of
incoming air. Is there an inlet "fresh air"
port that I can easily check? Or does this
indicate something worse. This started a few
months ago. Vacuum checks OK.
2) This has almost gotten me killed, so I'm fairly
concerned about this one. When the auto is
first started (even on warm days), acceleration
is fine until at 2800RPM the engine lugs
suddenly and SUBSTANTIALLY. Doesn't matter
whether it's 30 or 90 degF outside. Everything
is fine until that point. When it occurs, I
have to ease-back a bit, accelerate a lot more
slowly for awhile, and after another minute or
two, the problem goes away until the next
cold-start. Mechanics have thoroughly tested
the air flow meter, temperature sensors, fuel
pressure, etc....nothing found except more of my
money. I DO have a worn distributor shaft which
may be causing some timing problems, but I would
think that would cause other problems to show up
as well even when the engine isn't cold.
3) Slow coolant loss. Over a week or so, the
coolant level goes down to below the indicator
in the coolant tank. My auto appears to be a
single-tank system (no overflow tank). The
plastic tank is located above the left fender.
Mechanics have pressure tested to 18psi and have
found no leaks. Are they wrong? Can I retrofit
a coolant recovery system? Is there a recovery
tank that would even stand up to the engine
compartment heat (it melted an alarm siren I
mounted next to the cruise control bellows)?
4) Fuel usage metering is consistently low by
about 10%. For example, I'll use 22 gals (per
the gas station meter), but my trip computer
shows just a bit over 20 gals. Is there an
adjustment/calibration mechanism I can tweak to
get the two sources to agree? Where and how?
Anyone got a schematic of the trip computer
and/or ECU?
5) My sunroof fabric evidences a light 'abrasion'
mark dead center. This coincides with a "split"
area in the sunroof border piping. I suspect
there should be some sort of clip at this point
to 'hide' the ends of the piping, but have been
unable to locate same. Am I on the right track
or is there something else I should be looking
for here? If I keep using the sunroof, this
'scratch' in the fabric will grow worse. I've
tried fabricating a clip that might help reduce
this problem, but am unsuccessful to date.
6) When driving down highway, have a VERY slight
tendency to drift to the left. Got 4 new
Michelin XW4 tires (love 'em): problem remains.
Not a control problem...it is VERY minimal and I
can even take my hands off the wheel for awhile
on straight roads...but it eventually starts to
drift left. Alignment shops (2) both say
alignment is darn near perfect...they couldn't
get it any better. A concern is that this could
reduce tire lifetime. One alignment center says
no problem, except says that since there is a
little more pronounced left drift when the
brakes are applied, they should replace the left
brake fluid hose. I don't see how that relates
to this type of problem. They didn't see
anything wrong with the brakes/calipers/etc.
Comments?
- ------End forward message---------------------------
------------------------------
From: albrecht@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 1996 10:45:06 -0800
Subject: 84 XJ6 Queries - Lubricants, tire rotation, and whatis/whereis
- ------Begin forward message-------------------------
John Albrecht
albrecht@ix.netcom.com
1984 XJ6
Trying again with shorter note, broken into categories.
Questions already answered have been deleted. I don't know what
screwed the format up before, but I've again updated my mail and internet
software (just 2 weeks after having upgraded...but that's another non-jag story).
QUERIES:
1)Any experience with engine temperature changes when using
synthetics vs. regular oil?
The reason these are of interest is that one person indicated he has been able to eliminate "routine" oil leakage by switching to a
synthetic.
Any thoughts on using synthetic "blends" vs. "pure" synthetics?
2) Owner's manual says to NEVER rotate the tires,
even front-to-back. Is that right?
WHEREIS/WHATIS:
1) Are there any designed-in "spare" wires between the trunk
and the passenger compartment? Basically, I want to wire-in my trunk open switch (the light) with an alarm unit without running additional
wires. Currently does not seem possible.
2) Is there a lubrication point for the A/C and heater flap control motor and gears? I can't find anything obvious, and am leary of just
squirting some dead dinosaurs into the console.
3) WHAT ARE THESE? (These are ALL in the trunk, mounted to the vertical partition between the trunk and the rear passenger compartment)
a) SMALL CYLINDER attached to ECU in trunk. ECU is DAC2806, Approximately 8x10 inches next to right "cowbell". There is a small cylinder
about 2" long and 1" diameter. 2 red wires at the bottom, and a brass tube at the top. The tube is threaded internally, but nothing is
screwed-in to it. What is the cylinder and what does it do?
4) Is there an after-market driver's side air-bag for an 84 XJ6 jaguar?
- ------End forward message---------------------------
------------------------------
From: Randy Wilson <randy@taylor.infi.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 1996 15:08:01 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Dare I say the E word?
>Also have Italian Job where Michael Caine's Miata gets
>trashed by a front-end loader. :>)
Miata??? That weren't no Miata. That was a Datsun 240Z (Fairlady)!! :>
>Regards anyway,
>Charles Daly, Toronto, Canada
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
------------------------------
From: Jags@pastel.demon.co.uk (Mike Crawley)
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 19:45:58 GMT
Subject: Importing to Australia ?
Hi everybody,
I've been lurking around the list now for nearly a year now
since buying my XJ40 in England last November. She runs fine,
even though she is a high mileage cat.
I have the opportunity to work in Australia next year for six
months, possibly even permanently, so I am interested in getting
a Jag to drive around in, but the prices in Australia are a lot
higher than over here.
So my question: Has anyone on the list imported a car into Australia ?
If so, could they get in touch, as I need to know the costs
and procedures at the far end, and any changes I need to make.
I will combine the answers and post a mini-FAQ which will
be of use to others seeking to follow this path.
Thanks,
Mike Crawley.
- --
'88 XJ40 3.6L, 200K miles, still going strong <Jags@pastel.demon.co.uk>
------------------------------
From: "Donald R. Farr" <d.farr@phx.cox.com>
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 14:07:12 -0700
Subject: Re: Postcard...1 last time!
By golly he was right...it is a HOHOHOHO virus all over my screen!
> HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!
>> All this possible (free) feedback seems a one way trade, what we
>> need is some direct help sometimes from Jaguar !!
> HAHAHAHOHOHOHAHAHAHEEHOHOHOHOHAHA!
- --
Donald R. Farr
President
National Consulting Services
6719 North 58th Place
Paradise Valley, AZ 85253
(602) 998-3919 - voice
(602) 948-7499 - fax
91 Sovereign
d.farr@phx.cox.com - e-mail
http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/dfarr.htm - Homepage
http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/7000.htm - Jetta Notebook Computers
http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/march10.htm - Wireless products
http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/ncs1.htm - National Consulting Services
------------------------------
From: David Engelbach <widi@artnet.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 96 13:20:33 -0700
Subject: Re: Miata /Lotus what next?
All this Miata griping is just plain silly. Japanese stylists (even the
ones in the US) have long looked to European and British designs for
inspiration. Doesn't anyone find the Infiniti J30 a very close copy of
the the old 3.8 sedan? What's the problem? As a car enthusiast and
consumer I'd much rather see auto designs that are visually appealing
than horrible imitations of some GM corporate styling design. Anyone
really want to see highways full of Chevy Novas or Ford Fairlanes?
It took corporate courage for Mazda to create the MX-5 at a time when
everyone had given up on a reasonably priced open two seater. They
re-created the market. There would be no Porsche Boxster, BMW Z3, or MB
SLK if Mazda hadn't shown the way.
I grew up on English sportscars - my Dad had one of the very first
Austin-Healey 100s, a XK140 coupe, and one of the original 3.8 E-type
coupes. I've owned an MGB and an Sunbeam Tiger, my brother's owned
Morgans and Alfas and the MX-5 is as much fun as any of them and better
made than all of them. My wife owns a 91 Miata and she loves it. It's
been unbelievably reliable, economical, and sturdy. And it's still fun
to drive. Perhaps if the classic British marques had the same
inspiration, integrity, and engineering brillance as the Mazda they'd
still be in business.
_______________________________________________________
David C. Engelbach E-mail - widi@artnet.net
Valley Village, CA 91601 Voice - 818.506.5441
USA Fax - 818.506.1011
_____________________________________________________
------------------------------
From: George Cohn <gwcohn@azstarnet.com>
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 14:28:41 -0800
Subject: Re:Digest for E-types
Rod, the E-list and digest is mine. It's not affilliated with
jag-lovers. We just share many of the same members. Go to my URL to
find it.
_________________________
George Cohn
'70 OTS
http://www.xke-lovers.com
------------------------------
From: Christopher Healy <cph@niroinc.com>
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 17:17:34 -0500
Subject: '91-XJ6 Rear Suspension
How do I go about converting the ride leveling rear suspension to the
standard suspension? I have purchased Monroe Gasmatic shocks for the
front. Should I also procure these for the back and san they replace
the ride leveling struts on the car now. The rear assembly may not be
termed a strut?
appreciate any help in understanding what needs to be done.
- --
Chris Healy, P.E.
------------------------------
From: "Donald R. Farr" <d.farr@phx.cox.com>
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 15:41:34 -0700
Subject: Tyres or Tires, whichever you prefer
My thanks to Jan Wikstroem and Bill Kroeger for their recommendations on
new rubber paws for my 91 Sovereign. (Bill suggested 225/65 X15's and
Jan the 225/60 X 15's with a warning on a 5-6% increase in my
speedometer).
I'd like to hear from others....what do YOU use/recommend?
- --
Donald R. Farr
President
National Consulting Services
6719 North 58th Place
Paradise Valley, AZ 85253
(602) 998-3919 - voice
(602) 948-7499 - fax
91 Sovereign
d.farr@phx.cox.com - e-mail
http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/dfarr.htm - Homepage
http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/7000.htm - Jetta Notebook Computers
http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/march10.htm - Wireless products
http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/ncs1.htm - National Consulting Services
------------------------------
From: Michael Frank <mfrank@westnet.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 1996 18:56:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: More Reviews
Nick:
Four 'big books' tonight.....
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ------
Title: Jaguar Driver's Book
Author: James Ruppert
Publisher: Haynes Publications, Inc New York 1990
ISBN: 0 85429 626 3
Format: Standard size, hardcover, black and white, 60 pages, about 200 photos
This is an odd book, written by a British journalist. It is a little bit
of history, a little bit of anecdote, some statistics, and other stuff....
The other stuff includes Jaguar crossword puzzles, riddles, and jokes. A
fair number of pages are devoted to 'specials': one off Jags by the factory,
stretch limos, styling exercises by some of the best coachbuilders. Chapters
of Jag stories, how-to-buy, factory photos, and celebrity Jags round out
this unusual book. Summary: summarize the best of Jag-lovers, add some
excellent, one of a kind, black and white photos, and you have this book.
Very diverting.
Excerpt:
"In 1964.....recieved an interesting present form his Mexican suppliers.
They were grateful for his orders over the years, and had noticed that he
always showed interest in their Mark 2......"
" ....Flight 888 had its usual cargo of fresh fruit, and its unusual cargo
of a very well used Mark 2 Jaguar. But the Dakota aircraft was starting to
have trouble......Of course, the Jaguar was one of the first things out the
cargo door....."
"....1974, a party of scientists....came across a curious sight...in the
middle of a tropical rain forest. An almost perfectly restored Mark 2
Jaguar. It had been placed on a raised platform and was surrounded by fruit
and orchids...."
"....an interpreter discovered that the Jaguar was a focal point of worship.
The real jaguar had always been respected by the Indians, and they
recognized the mascot on the bonnet. And anyway when it had arrived in the
forest, so had a bumper crop of fresh fruit which meant it brought good
luck......"
".....denseness of the trees broke the Jaguar's fall....Indians were
excellent craftsmen...repairing and panel beating the damaged areas wasn't a
problem..."
".....The American team left the Jaguar where it was. However, this ad
appeared in a British newspaper recently....."
"Jaguar Mk2 Stored in S.America for 20 years. Ex cond, w/w, fsh
worshipped, offers.."
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- --------
Title: Jaguar XK-E 1961-1975
Author: Walter Zeichner
Publisher: Schiffer Publishing, West Chester, Pennsylvania, 1990
ISBN: 0-88740-247 x
Note: Also available in German, ISBN 3-922617-42-5, HandelsGmbH, Munchen
Format: Standard size, edge bound, 92 pages, 100 photos. Some color photos.
This is not a book as much as a collection. The text is only a couple of
pages long. The balance of the book consists of reproductions of original
advertising literature, magazine articles, and press photos. Included are
most of the advertising brochures for the E-Type. The original 1961 brochure
is reproduced in full color. A handy book for the E-lover.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ------------
Title:Jaguar: The Definitive History of a Great British Car
Author: Andrew Whyte
Publisher: Patrick Stephens Ltd (Haynes), Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset,
England 1994
ISBN: 1 85260 474 3
Format: Standard size, black and white, 290 pages, about 200 photos
This book should be familiar to every Jag lover. Whyte had a long
association with Jaguar, and was on the scene for many of the important
turning points in the company history. This well written book is the story
Jaguar and the people behind the company, told as only an insider can tell
it. Especially detailed are the sections describing the origins and early
years of SS production....a wonderful book, worth a place on your bookshelf.
The book includes two forwards by William Lyons, and one by Paul Skilleter.
Many unique black and white photos, especially of prewar Jags, and factory
shots.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ------------
Title: The Jaguar E-Type, A Collectors Guide
Author: Paul Skilleter
Publisher: Paul Skilleter and Motor Racing Publicactions, Ltd, Croydon,
England 1986
ISBN: 0 947981 15 2
Format: Standard size, edge bound, 128 pages, about 150 B&W photos
A little history of the E-Type, including origins, development, and
racing history. Tips on buying and maintenance. Specifications. Photos are
excellent, including construction details, engine bays, and racing scenes.
Not the best or most complete book on the subject, but certainly adequate
and accurate.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -----------
That's it for tonight. More to follow
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type
------------------------------
From: Jeremy Good <jeremy@Linux.dc.usconnect.com>
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 1996 00:52:24 -0500 (EST)
Subject: climate control
Hey all-
I'm considering buying a 76 XJ12C, and took it for a second drive
a few days ago. On Monday it's going to a Jag shop for a prepurchase
inspection. I left the seller's house with the temp set to 75F, and the
fan on auto. In a few minutes I had heat (it was about 40F outside), and
I could hear the servos adjusting as the car warmed up.
I stopped the car for about 15 min and looked it over. The temp guage
was still in the "Normal" range when I restarted it on my return trip.
Within a few minutes the fan suddenly went to full speed and it felt like
the A/C turned on. I was freezing! Turning the knob to the hottest setting
(85F, I think) lowered the fan speed, but only gave me the slightest bit
of heat. I'm going to have the mechanic give me an estimate on the
repair, but was wondering if any of you have experienced this type of
problem.
Thanks in advance
Jeremy
------------------------------
From: COOPER ROBIN D <COOPER_ROBIN_D@Lilly.com>
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 00:56:26 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: jag magazines
just come from browsing through the local barnes & noble book store and came
across a new magazine -new to me anyway. it is very glossy with a large write
up of the new jag. it appears to be published out of the u.k. every two months
at a yearly cost of $39. if interested the u.s. distributor is;eric walter and
associates, 369 springfield ave., po box 188, berkeley heights, N.J. 07922.
phone #908-665-7811, fax # 908-665-7814.
cheers, robin
------------------------------
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #575
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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 9 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 576
Re: Asian Motors/No jag content
Ignition timing??? 85 XJ6
Postcards IS NOT A VIRUS. (No jag content)
XJ-S Headlights - The Plot Thickens
interior ligth delay
RE: Jelly Beans
XJ-S A/C unit removal - problem solved
Re: XJ-S Headlights - The Plot Thickens
Well, It Was a Nice Dream
"Return mail": Postcard...1 last time!
Re: '91-XJ6 Rear Suspension
Santa dumps sleigh for XK8
Current 84 XJ6 Problems
Swedishbrick cross over
RE: "Return mail": Postcard...1 last time!
Re: XJ-S Headlights - The Plot Thickens
Re: FW: postcards????
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Mark McChesney" <mmcchesn@ford.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Dec 1996 20:07:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Asian Motors/No jag content
On Dec 7, 11:26am, Yoshihisa SUGIMOTO wrote:
> Subject: Re: Asian Motors
> More
> shameless cars I think are Nissan's series of retro-tasted cars, i.e. Pao,
> Figaro, Be-1 and S-cargo.
Maybe they shouldn't have, but I'm glad that they did :-) these where some of
the most lovable cars of the last 20 years. Frivolous maybe, but definitely
lovable.
I hope my comments supporting the idea that the Miata was an Elan knock off
were not misunderstood. The Miata fulfills it's mission perfectly. I was the
second name on the waiting list at my local Mazda dealer before the car came
out - the first car they got in listed at $14,XXX and the dealer wanted $23,000
- - and got it. But not from me.
Mark McChesney
------------------------------
From: Brian Richgels <jaguar@brainerd.net>
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 20:14:56 -0800
Subject: Ignition timing??? 85 XJ6
Would someone be kind enough to tell me the correct spec. for ignition
timing on my 1985 XJ6 and should it be checked at idle or????
My service manual only talks about a static check. I need a briefing
using my timing light.Thanks Very Much.......Brian
------------------------------
From: "John Littler" <auibmdak@ibmmail.com>
Date: Sat, 07 Dec 1996 22:01:20 EST
Subject: Postcards IS NOT A VIRUS. (No jag content)
Guys
If there's anyone on the list likely to be unsure you can't get a virus
from an e-mail UNLESS you execute a file that is incorporated in that
e-mail - i.e a .com .exe OR a document or spreadsheet that is opened
by a program that supports autoexecution of macros (I.E Word 6 / Word 95
Excel etc). NB booting off a floppy constitutes executing a program.
So please don't believe this rubbish.
Gerald, I'm sure you posted with the best of intentions, but please check
the facts before you make the warning - simply resetting the date on your
PC would have been a simple test that would have shown that the facts you
had were incorrect.
John
"Don't download this mail. This is a virus Email called Ho Ho Ho Merry
Christmas. It has a hidden line of code that activates after you boot yo
computer any time after Dec. 24th 96.
It activates then and causes the line "Ho Ho Ho Merry Christmas" to be
written all over your hard drive. If you have downloaded, it is too late
Christmas day when you boot up you'll have the Merry Christmas virus. Go
luck on getting it off."
Level 1, 29-57 Christie St.
St Leonards NSW 2065
Ph: +61-2-9937-8063 Fax: +61-2-9937-8100
Mobile +61-419-617-619 Internet: jlittler@vnet.ibm.com
------------------------------
From: "Kirbert" <palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 1996 00:39:39 -0005
Subject: XJ-S Headlights - The Plot Thickens
I still don't have a firm grasp on the XJ-S headlight situation. In
fact, the more I dig, the more questions are raised.
Cliff Sadler:
> I'd just look, but my PO was out of the channel so many times that
> I actually have two different Euro Headlamps!
>
> CIBIE 100E lens with 2 seperate Halos and a small bulb on passenger
> side
> CIBIE 100E H4 lens w/ 1 Halo and 2 small bulbs on the drivers side
Now, tonight I looked in an application guide for Sylvania headlights
in an AutoZone. It clearly applied to US-spec cars only, and it says
the 1990-on XJ-S uses 9004 lamps. 9004's are the modern design, with
the plastic base and a chubby O-ring. Anybody confirm the XJ-S
actually use this bulb?
Sadler: could any of the bulbs on your car possibly be a 9004? It
doesn't sound like it.
While on the subject of 9004's: The Sylvania package clearly states
"not interchangible with 9007", and the 9007 package says "not
interchangible with 9004". However, they certainly look to me as
though you could swap them around. The 9004 is 65/45W, while the
9007 is 65/55W. Has anybody tried putting a 9007 in their XJ-S? Of
course, J. C. Whitney offers higher wattage versions of both, but
just getting the additional 10W when one burns out sounds tempting.
My XK's Unlimited catalog shows an "XJ-S European Headlamp Conversion
Kit", and the pic seems to indicate a single bulb (plus a bulb
pilot). The parts list calls for a JA-472, which in XK's parlance
means the bulb is a number 472 -- whatever that is. It says "2
Required", I presume that means for the whole car, 1 per side. The
illustration only shows a very tiny representation of the bulb
itself, but it looks kinda like an H1 (the H1 has an all-metal base,
circular with a straight side at about a 45 degree angle to the
single spade connector). This doesn't make any sense, though,
because the H1 is a single-element bulb and wouldn't provide a
high/low feature; you'd need at least two per side.
The Haynes manual (page 198) shows a halogen bulb supposedly being
fitted to the XJ-S, and once again it looks like the H1 to me. As
mentioned before, their two bulb charts (pages 182 and 331) are both
questionable, with the one on page 331 calling out the 472 again.
Another thing: the Sylvania guide (as well as the Haynes book) said
that ALL XJ-S auxiliary lights use H2 bulbs. I certainly wouldn't
have expected this; most such lights use H3's. My own are not
original; can someone with original fog or driving lights confirm?
H2's look as though they are mounted on two halves of a razor blade,
while H3's have a short wire with a spade connector on the end.
-- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm's Postulate
------------------------------
From: Thorsten_Ploss@magicvillage.de (Thorsten Ploss)
Date: 08 Dec 1996 07:55:12 GMT
Subject: interior ligth delay
It seems, that nearly no XJ SIII got this feature. By the way, I would thank
to everybody for information how to get this feature. If I made it, I will
post in the list how...
In the meantime I am out of town for a week or so. Therefore I am going to
sign off. If there should be some more information on this topic, please mail
it directly to: Thorsten_Ploss@magicvillage.de
Thorsten (gato verde)
------------------------------
From: Gunnar Helliesen <gunnar@bitcon.no>
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 1996 10:01:32 +0100
Subject: RE: Jelly Beans
Ah, a conspiracy! I knew it!
;-)
Gunnar
- --
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar Sovereign 4.2
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | '73 Mercedes 280 (240D)
>----------
>From: Mark McChesney[SMTP:mmcchesn@ford.com]
>Sent: 6. desember 1996 20:10
>To: jag-lovers@sn.no
>Subject: Re: Jelly Beans
>
>On Dec 6, 12:11pm, Jim Isbell wrote:
>> Subject: Asian rip offs !!!
>
>> The Miata is a "jelly bean car" like the Taurus
>
>Must be the blasted Ford stylists again... truth is, we sneak into the
>studios
>of competing Japanese car companies and and draw ovals all over their
>production drawings :-)
>
>Mark McChesney
>
------------------------------
From: jnuttall@julian.uwo.ca
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 1996 10:10:42 +0000
Subject: XJ-S A/C unit removal - problem solved
Recently I asked for information on how to remove the A/C unit from
my 1977 XJ-S. This is the unit which sits on top of the tunnel in the
centre of the dash. Specifically, the problem was how to follow the
instructions in the official manual to remove an object called the
demist duct vane from the top of the unit. Removal of this vane
uncovers a screw which secures the unit to the car body just below the
windshield.
Nobody has offered any advice on this problem, but yesterday a friend
and I managed to solve it by looking closely at my 1979 XJ-S which has
had its windshield removed. The main difficulty with the manual is
that it does not make clear just what is the demist duct vane, and I
don't think the official name is a very good description. It turns
out that this object is a piece of vinyl covered rubber about
34 in (85 cm) long, 3/4 in (2 cm ) thick, and 3in (8 cm) wide in the
centre, tapering at the ends. Along its back face is screwed (with 13
screws) a plastic air deflector to direct air to the windshield. This
vane fills in the gap between the centre of the fascia and the
windshield.
To remove the demist duct vane you must undo two screws placed
vertically downwards at the ends. With the windshield in place it is
impossible to do this with a conventional screwdriver. I was able to
turn these screws with vise grips. The underside of the vane has two
prongs about 17 in (44 cm) apart which engage slots in the unit below.
I hope most Jag owners are lucky enough not to have a problem which
necessitates removal of the A/C unit. It requires the removal of a
lot of components under the dash. Also pipes and hoses in the engine
compartment which are attached to the unit are probably rather
difficult to remove with the engine in place. Having the engine
removed made this part of the job a lot easier.
Now I will soon be at the stage where I need advice on rust repairs
on the body shell.
John Nuttall
jnuttall@julian.uwo.ca
1977 XJ-S (in more and more pieces)
1979 XJ-S (parts and component testing)
------------------------------
From: John Goodman <101547.1141@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 08 Dec 96 09:54:52 EST
Subject: Re: XJ-S Headlights - The Plot Thickens
>> fact, the more I dig, the more questions are raised.<<
>>The Haynes manual (page 198) shows a halogen bulb supposedly being
fitted to the XJ-S, and once again it looks like the H1 to me. As
mentioned before, their two bulb charts (pages 182 and 331) are both
questionable, with the one on page 331 calling out the 472 again.<<
I can shed some light on this: Firstly, are all the Haynes manuals the
same ? Mine covers XJ12 1972-1988, XJ-S 1975-1985. The drawing of the
XJ-S headlight bulb on page 198 (actually 197 in my book) looks like it
was taken from a 1980 <UK> owners hand book. BUT, here's what is causing
the confusion, it's been edited to fit the page and you only have HALF
the picture !!!
What you are looking at here is a 1980 or earlier headlight, the bulb
shown is a main beam single filament H1 or H2 the handbook does not say
(just gives a Jag part no. AAU1311). WHAT IS NOT SHOWN is an identical
bulb which installs In an identical hole immediately underneath for the
dipped beam. Later cars from (? but before 1987) had the revised lights
with ONE big hole to take a H4 472 ( Jag no. JLM 9598)
I think the 472 refers to the universal application of 60/55w for most
of the world, which is why everyone just asks for a H4 bulb. A 476 is
the yellow equivalent for France.
Cliff Sadler:
> I'd just look, but my PO was out of the channel so many times that
> I actually have two different Euro Headlamps!
>
> CIBIE 100E lens with 2 seperate Halos and a small bulb on passenger
> side
> CIBIE 100E H4 lens w/ 1 Halo and 2 small bulbs on the drivers side >>
You have one replacement new light if your car is pre '87 or the PO has
put an old unit in from a breakers !
>>My XK's Unlimited catalog shows an "XJ-S European Headlamp Conversion
Kit", and the pic seems to indicate a single bulb (plus a bulb
pilot). The parts list calls for a JA-472, which in XK's parlance
means the bulb is a number 472 -- whatever that is. It says "2
Required", I presume that means for the whole car, 1 per side. The
illustration only shows a very tiny representation of the bulb
itself, but it looks kinda like an H1 (the H1 has an all-metal base,
circular with a straight side at about a 45 degree angle to the
single spade connector). This doesn't make any sense, though,
because the H1 is a single-element bulb and wouldn't provide a
high/low feature; you'd need at least two per side. <<
If their seling the older units (not a bad thing, wire them up so both
bulbs come on with main beam) it needs two H1 bulbs. The later units
have one H4 472. Again the cataloge drawing may be wrong !!!
John Goodman
'89 XJR-S 6.0L
0
------------------------------
From: Peter Adams <peter@brig.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 1996 15:14:54 +0000
Subject: Well, It Was a Nice Dream
I am very grateful to the many people who wrote to me giving me advice
about buying a Jaguar. Having looked at hundreds of advertisements, and
not a few cars, I have sadly had to accept that any Jaguar/Daimler
within my price range would be a rebuild, trouble, or both.
So, unfortunately, it does not look as though my last car will be a
Jaguar, after all. Instead, I have decided to complete the rebuild of my
1963 Rover 95.
- --
Peter Adams
Lincolnshire, England
------------------------------
From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 12:51:49 -0700
Subject: "Return mail": Postcard...1 last time!
Hi all,
John Goodman recently posted as par of a comment on "postcard":
>All this possible (free) feedback seems a one way trade, what we need is
>some direct help sometimes from Jaguar !!1>
I second the motion!!! Anything to this ? Could we contact Jaguar USA as a
group somehow and see if their "factory" guys could comment on some of our
problems? Just a thought......Regards,
Rob W-M
85 XJ-S
------------------------------
From: cobac@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 1996 13:38:01 -0800
Subject: Re: '91-XJ6 Rear Suspension
Chris,
Best way to replace the rear shock assemblies is to buy the conversion
kit from your Jaguar dealer. This kit includes everything you need to
convert the rear shocks to the conventional style. As part of the
conversion, of course as mentioned, the springs, bushings, and spring
holders will be changed with the shocks in the conversion.
On my 1989 Vanden Plas, for the back I bought the kit from Jaguar, and also I changed the front with shocks from my Jag dealer (Bilstein's shocks). The rear is a little more difficult to install than the front (because a spring compressor is needed for the rear). After changing all the shocks with factory replacements, I have had nothing but tremendous ride quality from the car. Regards, Eric At 05:17 PM 12/7/96 -0500, you wrote:
>How do I go about converting the ride leveling rear suspension to the
>standard suspension? I have purchased Monroe Gasmatic shocks for the
>front. Should I also procure these for the back and san they replace
>the ride leveling struts on the car now. The rear assembly may not be
>termed a strut?
>
>appreciate any help in understanding what needs to be done.
>--
>
>
>Chris Healy, P.E.
>
>
------------------------------
From: "Robert J. Richardson" <rrichardson@eurekanet.com>
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 1996 17:12:28 -0500
Subject: Santa dumps sleigh for XK8
Someone on the list asked for a screen shot of anything associating Santa
with Jaguars. I luckily had my camera in hand when Santa did a flyby of
these southeastern Ohio hills to train his newests helper. You can see
Santa and this curvy helper (fullgrown and not a dwarf) in their new
conveyance-a shiny, red Jaguar.
Drop me a line and request the Santa JPEG as an attachment. Merry, merry.
------------------------------
From: shanem@vnet.IBM.COM
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 96 17:43:21 EST
Subject: Current 84 XJ6 Problems
From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
*** SYDVM1(SHANEM) PH. (02) 354-4918 CUMBERLAND FOREST FE21
*** INTERNET - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM *** IBMMAIL - AUIBMSPM ****
Subject: Current 84 XJ6 Problems
John, the air flowing into your cabin through the vents is coming
from the fan intakes on the sides of the plenum compartment, which is
the area just in front of the windscreen, where the grill holding
the wiper/washer jets sits. When the air-con is turned off, or is on
and at either full cold or full heat, these intakes should be closed,
and should not allow flow through air into the cabin. If yours is doing
this, then you may have an electrical problem, where the relay or
solenoids involved are not closing the flaps, or it could be related
to the thermostat reading the cabin temperature, or a number of things.
Take it to a guy who is expert with jaguar climate control, who should
be able to diagnose it cheaply, as opposed to a regular air-con guy who
may charge less per hour, but will spend all day trying to find out what
is wrong...
***************************************************************
***************************************************************
REGARDS.......Shane
*** Forwarding note from SMTP4 --IINUS1 12/08/96 06:49 ***
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From: albrecht@ix.netcom.com
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Date: Sat, 7 Dec 1996 10:36:10 -0800
To: Jag-lovers@sn.no
Message-Id: <1996127123932711478@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Current 84 XJ6 Problems
X-Mailer: NETCOMplete v3.20, from NETCOM On-Line Communications, Inc.
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- ------Begin forward message-------------------------
John Albrecht
albrecht@ix.netcom.com
1984 XJ6
Trying again with shorter note, broken into areas of interest.
CURRENT PROBLEMS:
1) Have minor air-flow CONSTANTLY through all
vents (except center when flap closed). Appears
to be outside air, and after car has been
running awhile is fairly warm...even if the air
conditioning has been running. Even when A/C or
HEAT are OFF, I get a constant light flow of
air. Have been unable to locate source of
incoming air. Is there an inlet "fresh air"
port that I can easily check? Or does this
indicate something worse. This started a few
months ago. Vacuum checks OK.
2) This has almost gotten me killed, so I'm fairly
concerned about this one. When the auto is
first started (even on warm days), acceleration
is fine until at 2800RPM the engine lugs
suddenly and SUBSTANTIALLY. Doesn't matter
whether it's 30 or 90 degF outside. Everything
is fine until that point. When it occurs, I
have to ease-back a bit, accelerate a lot more
slowly for awhile, and after another minute or
two, the problem goes away until the next
cold-start. Mechanics have thoroughly tested
the air flow meter, temperature sensors, fuel
pressure, etc....nothing found except more of my
money. I DO have a worn distributor shaft which
may be causing some timing problems, but I would
think that would cause other problems to show up
as well even when the engine isn't cold.
3) Slow coolant loss. Over a week or so, the
coolant level goes down to below the indicator
in the coolant tank. My auto appears to be a
single-tank system (no overflow tank). The
plastic tank is located above the left fender.
Mechanics have pressure tested to 18psi and have
found no leaks. Are they wrong? Can I retrofit
a coolant recovery system? Is there a recovery
tank that would even stand up to the engine
compartment heat (it melted an alarm siren I
mounted next to the cruise control bellows)?
4) Fuel usage metering is consistently low by
about 10%. For example, I'll use 22 gals (per
the gas station meter), but my trip computer
shows just a bit over 20 gals. Is there an
adjustment/calibration mechanism I can tweak to
get the two sources to agree? Where and how?
Anyone got a schematic of the trip computer
and/or ECU?
5) My sunroof fabric evidences a light 'abrasion'
mark dead center. This coincides with a "split"
area in the sunroof border piping. I suspect
there should be some sort of clip at this point
to 'hide' the ends of the piping, but have been
unable to locate same. Am I on the right track
or is there something else I should be looking
for here? If I keep using the sunroof, this
'scratch' in the fabric will grow worse. I've
tried fabricating a clip that might help reduce
this problem, but am unsuccessful to date.
6) When driving down highway, have a VERY slight
tendency to drift to the left. Got 4 new
Michelin XW4 tires (love 'em): problem remains.
Not a control problem...it is VERY minimal and I
can even take my hands off the wheel for awhile
on straight roads...but it eventually starts to
drift left. Alignment shops (2) both say
alignment is darn near perfect...they couldn't
get it any better. A concern is that this could
reduce tire lifetime. One alignment center says
no problem, except says that since there is a
little more pronounced left drift when the
brakes are applied, they should replace the left
brake fluid hose. I don't see how that relates
to this type of problem. They didn't see
anything wrong with the brakes/calipers/etc.
Comments?
- ------End forward message---------------------------
------------------------------
From: Ryan Michals <naghty@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 18:11:30 -0800
Subject: Swedishbrick cross over
Hello all,
Just wanted to introduce myself, I have the opportunity to get a
really great XJ6. I work at a Toyota delarship here in Ohio have my eye
on this 1987 we just took in on trade. I have allways admired Jags but I
currently own a volvo which has been great and I don't know if I want to
give up the reliability. Can anyone offer any suggestions on what to look
for before I buy? I have access to a lift and mechanics but the help of
other Jag owners is more valuable to me. I have little knowledge of the
xj6 only thoes rummors. How is the reliability of the
engine/transmission and electronics? What kind of gas milage can I
expect?
Any help would be greatly appreaciated!!
Hapy Holidays
Ryan Michals
NAGHTY@ix.netcom.com
------------------------------
From: Gunnar Helliesen <gunnar@bitcon.no>
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 00:32:44 +0100
Subject: RE: "Return mail": Postcard...1 last time!
Why on earth would you ask Jaguar USA? As this is an international list,
wouldn't it be much better to ask Jaguar Cars Ltd. in Coventry? I
believe there is no Jaguar factory in the US as of yet.
Anyway, we've already got TezFair on this list and should consider
ourselves lucky for it.
Gunnar
- --
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar Sovereign 4.2
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | '73 Mercedes 280 (240D)
>----------
>From: ee84287@goodnet.com[SMTP:ee84287@goodnet.com]
>Sent: 8. desember 1996 20:51
>To: jag-lovers@sn.no
>Subject: "Return mail": Postcard...1 last time!
>
>Hi all,
>
>John Goodman recently posted as par of a comment on "postcard":
>>All this possible (free) feedback seems a one way trade, what we need is
>>some direct help sometimes from Jaguar !!1>
>
>I second the motion!!! Anything to this ? Could we contact Jaguar USA as a
>group somehow and see if their "factory" guys could comment on some of our
>problems? Just a thought,......Regards
>
>Rob W-M
>85 XJ-S
>
>
------------------------------
From: John Goodman <101547.1141@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 08 Dec 96 18:56:10 EST
Subject: Re: XJ-S Headlights - The Plot Thickens
>> Would you happen to know why "Cibie" is mentioned every now and
then? Cibie is a headlight maker, I've owned Cibies, but does the
reference indicate that some XJ-S headlights were Cibie and some
were not?<<
I think they are all Cibie my '81, '88 and present '89 car were. Cibie
make them for Jaguar, remember when the XJ-S was first introduced these
lights were "state of the art technology" unlike anything else around,
probably a showcase for cibie. They are still very expensive to replace,
not like a small standard round one !
>> > I think the 472 refers to the universal application of 60/55w for
most of the world, which is why everyone just asks for a H4 bulb.< <<
>>What kind of number is it? Is it a Jaguar number, a British
standard of some form, or even a European standard? Nobody here in
the US has ever even heard of it, and I haven't been able to find
any cross-references that list it.<<
Not a Jag no. All I know is it's a VERY common bulb here in the UK and
presumable in Europe too ! It's common in Hella and Bosch lights (they
are even in my Volkswagen campervan headlights!).
>> Now, in the US, supposedly the 1990-on uses the 9004 bulb. That
makes three distinct versions of the "Euro style" assembly, at least.<<
I think you can safely discount the early two bulb + pilot assemblies
because they were superseded long before 1990, maybe the 9004 is an
equivalent US standard to a 472 ? Remember your R/H drive lights have
different glass lenses to our L/H drive so a revised "hole" to fit a US
bulb is quite possible.
>>Also: which type headlight does your car have, and does it have ONE
or TWO "pilot bulbs"? Or none at all, using the low beams at reduced
power? And, of course, I'd like a clue as to how that "dimmed" low
beam works; do they use a relay to connect both bulbs in series?<<
One single H4 60/55w in mine with the one 4w pilot (side/park). My
Jaguar owners handbook states that the dimmed dip facility is only
available on UK cars. Don't understand much about electrickery but fuse
no. 4 (10 amp) in the white topped fusebox under the bonnet controls it.
Presumable it's a voltage reducing thing, I'd need to check where the
wires go from the fuse, could be one of those relays adjacent to the
fuses... a yellow Hella relay ??? Haven't seen one on any other car.
When I converted my previous XJ-S to 4 headlights the dim system still
works because all 4 lights are the same and still use the H4 bulbs.
Although It remains a mystery why the genuine Jag kit did not have
dedicated driving lights for the inner pair with H1 bulbs. Well it stops
us putting the wrong lamp in the wrong hole I suppose !!
John Goodman
'89 XJR-S 6.0L
------------------------------
From: Jan Wikstroem <Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au>
Date: 9 Dec 96 10:12:37 EDT
Subject: Re: FW: postcards????
Let's not be quite so sour about this, folks - nor paranoid, there's no
possibility of a virus involved.
All it is, is a free facility provided by a third party so you can send a
picture postcard without wasting bandwidth on the actual picture. Those of us
who wish to read the message and see the picture can choose to see it, those
who don't, don't. So it's not your choice of picture - what do you expect, it's
free.
Personally, I chose to check it out, and I appreciate the sender's effort to
send list members a nice greeting, whatever I think of the characterless,
me-retro-too, fashion-slave XK8...
;3+)
- -Jan
------------------------------
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #576
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Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 14:08:05 +0100 (MET)
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From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
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X-Status:
X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest
jag-lovers-digest Monday, 9 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 577
XJ40 Hydraulics
XJ40 ABS Failure
RE: XJ-S Headlights
Nothing gets finished.
Re: Postcards
Re: Nothing gets finished.
Mk2 head and brake questions
Final Part of "How I found My Jag"
Testing Lotus Notes (no Jag contents, please ignore)
Re: Final Part of "How I found My Jag"
Re: XJ40 ABS Failure
Re: XJ40 ABS Failure
Re: Nothing gets finished.
Re: Nothing gets finished.
SIII XJ6 Speedometer question
Re: Mk2 head and brake questions
RE: Importing to Australia ?
[SIII XJ6] Need some advice
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: KupyKool@aol.com
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 1996 19:52:56 -0500
Subject: XJ40 Hydraulics
Thanks to all who responded about the rear suspension on my XJ40. The
consensus seems to be that I need to get the changeover kit. While you guys
are slugging it out over spring length, does anyone know where to get the
best price on this item? I hear SICP has it for $475(US). Any good?
Mike Kupritz
Baltimore, Maryland
------------------------------
From: KupyKool@aol.com
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 1996 19:52:58 -0500
Subject: XJ40 ABS Failure
The ABS failure warning on my 1988 XJ40 comes on intermittently. I have been
advised not to bother trying to restore the system to working condition. (I
noticed that at least one speed sensor is missing.) Anyone disagree? If not,
does anyone know how to bypass the system (and the warning)?
Mike Kupritz
Baltimore, Maryland
------------------------------
From: John Setters <john_setters@eagle.co.nz>
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 13:49:19 +1300
Subject: RE: XJ-S Headlights
Hi Kirby,
I am reading from the Jaguar XJS Handbook Publication Part No. AKM 9160
Ed 5.
This is the original book supplied in New Zealand with my 1988 XJS 3.6.
It covers UK sourced vehicles both RH and LH drive, V12 and AJ6.
European style oval headlights-
France only 12v60/55W Halogen yellow JLM 9599
Rest of World 12V60/55W Halogen JLM 9598
Headlamp pilot bulb - Front side light 12V4W Bayonet JLM 9589
Just ask if you would like any other info from this handbook.
P.S. It would appear that the USA is not part of the rest of the world
!!!
******************************************************
John Setters
Desktop Mapping Consultant
Eagle Technology Group Ltd
110 Symonds Street
Auckland
New Zealand
Ph +64 +09 300 3400 Fax +64 +09 300 3420
Email john_setters@eagle.co.nz
http://www.eagle.co.nz
******************************************************
>----------
>From: Kirbert[SMTP:palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu]
>Sent: Friday, 6 December 1996 11:53
>To: jag-lovers@sn.no
>Subject: XJ-S Headlights
>
>I still haven't gotten a response to the question of what bulbs are
>used in the Euro-style headlights on the XJ-S. Surely somebody out
>there has such a car. It seems to me it would only require checking
>the owner's manual to tell me what bulb is called for. The Jaguar
>mail-order catalogs I have don't seem to tell me.
>
>Thanks.
>
> -- Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
> | some rules must be broken.
> | - Palm's Postulate
>
------------------------------
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 20:22:58 -0600
Subject: Nothing gets finished.
I started several Jaguar projects today and every one of them ended up half
done because of parts.
I decided to drain the oil and replace the filter. 1st I found the drain
plug must have been fastened down with an impact wrench by the PO. Skinned
my arm terribly when my 14" cheater let go. Finaly got it off and drained
the pan. Amasingly there was 10 qts of oil in it. Usualy when I drain a
Jag it is down to 6-8 quarts due to leaks.
Then I finaly found a filter wrench (third one I tried) that would get to
the filter (XJS) and I got it off. I went to the parts store to get a
filter, guess what, they have to order it! Tomorrow I will look a few more
places but for now that job is on hold and the Jag is on stands.
I decided this would be a good time to check the advance on my "new car".
Finaly got the disrtibutor cap off. Then I droped one of the screws that
hold on the plastic inner cover and one was already missing (Ill bet its
down there with the one I droped). The cap gasket broke into three pieces
and the rotor wont budge. So that project is now on hold for parts and
advice on removing the rotor.
Anyone ever have any trouble pulling the rotor off the shaft of a V12? How
did you do it?
Finaly I decided to reseal the bellows on the cruise control. It got dark
before I could find my tube of silicon. Its in that garage somewhere, but
it will have to wait until tomorrow.
A frustrating day to say the least. Tomorrow I will have to drive the Caddy
to find parts.
- --
Jim
"Better an outlaw than not free."
Nance O'Neil
------------------------------
From: Jan Wikstroem <Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au>
Date: 9 Dec 96 12:42:03 EDT
Subject: Re: Postcards
Gerald, you may think it's fun to shout "Fire!" in a crowded theatre, but it's
not responsible adult behaviour. I hate to think of a large, powerful Jaguar in
such hands.
Grow up!
- -Jan
------------------------------
From: Jan Wikstroem <Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au>
Date: 9 Dec 96 13:57:07
Subject: Re: Nothing gets finished.
Jim Isbell <snip>: Anyone ever have any trouble pulling the rotor off the shaft
of a V12?
The normal rotor - the thing with the brass arm that actually distributes the
spark - simply pulls off; just pull damn' hard. The trigger rotor with the 12
little ferrite cores, on the other hand, tends to seize on the shaft and is
much too fragile to apply any force to. The only way I ever got one off was by
breaking it up.
It may be possible to take the entire distributor out and pull the shaft out of
the housing after unpinning the drive gear. You could then apply a tight collar
and press the shaft out of the disk.
So far, I've managed to replace the vacuum advance capsule, repair the pickup
wiring (and pick up dropped screws!) without disturbing the trigger rotor...
- -Jan
------------------------------
From: glite@eos.net
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 23:09:20 -0500
Subject: Mk2 head and brake questions
About a month ago I purchased a 1965 Mk2 which had been stored in the
proverbial barn since 1980 and owned by a little old lady (really!).
The car has practically no rust except the small panel below the
grill. Engine is seized as are all the brakes calipers. The owners
manual and dealer warranty card were still in the side pocket of the
door and the tool kit had never been opened!
Now for the down side. I think someone has played with the engine,
other than the PO. The bolts from the timing gears to the cams were not
wired together and the head has no corrosion. Although the engine
numbers match the commission plate, the head has an A stamped into
it. Somewhere in my reading for the last month I was under the
impression that the MK2 had a B head. Dumb question. Is this the
right head or did the little old lady take me for a ride?
Other question, regarding rebuilding the brakes:
After reading the Practical Classic Mk2 restoration, the Welsh and XK
catalogs and some Jag magazines, I guess I can have the calipers
re-sleeved, purchase new calipers (stock or stainless), or replace them
with the 420 front calipers. Any suggestions as to the best way to
go.
George Leicht (glite@eos.net)
59 TR3
72 TR6
65 Mk2 (in a lot of pieces)
------------------------------
From: brett ferguson <howard@calweb.com>
Date: Sun, 08 Dec 1996 20:32:01 -0800
Subject: Final Part of "How I found My Jag"
Anyway, by this time I had the bucks together. Several weeks had passed.
I had met the owner, who seemed dismayed at the prospect of selling his
beauty, newly-painted and stunning, for only 28000. Oh well, by this
time we had a verbal agreement. I knew he would stick to it. After all,
he is a lawyer. He brought the original bill of sale, for 4800$, and the
original owner's title. OK. Now she's mine after Tom does his magic at
the DMV. Next day I meet Tom and he hands me the documents and explains
that the car has a temporary registration for 30 days and that during
that time I must have the car smogged and pass, in order to register in
the great state of California. First smog failed, too rich. Took the car
back to my mechanic and he de-tunes it. Second test passes and I take it
back to the mech and he re-tunes and she runs great. Looks great. One
problem was that after 3 days in my garage, I'm drooloing for a spin. I
hop in, hit the starter. Nothing happens, I mean nada. No gauges, no
horn, no lights. Battery is as dead as a cold corpse. Bought a new
battery, 3 days later, dead. Oh Oh.
Yeah, I got another battery, free because the previous one was
warrantied. Yes, you guessed, deader than bat shit. OK< time for a trip
to the mech. After 4 days he tells me the alternator is fried and that I
will need it totally rebuilt. He does this and a number of other
mechanical things and 13 days and 867$ later the car is ready. Small
price to pay for a car that now not only runs great, looks great and
really is great. Months pass and I finally get the car appraised. It
comes in at 38000, 10000 more than I paid for it. I'm ecstatic. Now that
winter has set in, I promised her that I fire her up once a week on a
dry day and take her for a spin. I did today, and she thanked me with
her responsiveness, her beauty, and her cachet. Oh, there are still
important things to be done to bring her up to her maximum car-ness, but
those can get done one at a time- and I still have a great car at a
bargain price. She's mine and I love her.
------------------------------
From: Jan Wikstroem <Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au>
Date: 9 Dec 96 15:11:08 EDT
Subject: Testing Lotus Notes (no Jag contents, please ignore)
Well, Jan, you miserable slob, it worked...
------------------------------
From: Paul Brand <paulbr@atiaust.com.au>
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 16:44:24 +1100
Subject: Re: Final Part of "How I found My Jag"
Brett.
Thats so beautiful ..!!!!
Sniffle, sniffle it bought a tear to my eye,
Congrats, i hope you and the girl do well.
At 08:32 PM 12/8/96 -0800, you wrote:
>Anyway, by this time I had the bucks together. Several weeks had passed.
>I had met the owner, who seemed dismayed at the prospect of selling his
>beauty, newly-painted and stunning, for only 28000. Oh well, by this
>time we had a verbal agreement. I knew he would stick to it. After all,
>he is a lawyer. He brought the original bill of sale, for 4800$, and the
>original owner's title. OK. Now she's mine after Tom does his magic at
>the DMV. Next day I meet Tom and he hands me the documents and explains
>that the car has a temporary registration for 30 days and that during
>that time I must have the car smogged and pass, in order to register in
>the great state of California. First smog failed, too rich. Took the car
>back to my mechanic and he de-tunes it. Second test passes and I take it
>back to the mech and he re-tunes and she runs great. Looks great. One
>problem was that after 3 days in my garage, I'm drooloing for a spin. I
>hop in, hit the starter. Nothing happens, I mean nada. No gauges, no
>horn, no lights. Battery is as dead as a cold corpse. Bought a new
>battery, 3 days later, dead. Oh Oh.
> Yeah, I got another battery, free because the previous one was
>warrantied. Yes, you guessed, deader than bat shit. OK< time for a trip
>to the mech. After 4 days he tells me the alternator is fried and that I
>will need it totally rebuilt. He does this and a number of other
>mechanical things and 13 days and 867$ later the car is ready. Small
>price to pay for a car that now not only runs great, looks great and
>really is great. Months pass and I finally get the car appraised. It
>comes in at 38000, 10000 more than I paid for it. I'm ecstatic. Now that
>winter has set in, I promised her that I fire her up once a week on a
>dry day and take her for a spin. I did today, and she thanked me with
>her responsiveness, her beauty, and her cachet. Oh, there are still
>important things to be done to bring her up to her maximum car-ness, but
>those can get done one at a time- and I still have a great car at a
>bargain price. She's mine and I love her.
>
------------------------------
From: Randy Wilson <randy@taylor.infi.net>
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 1996 23:37:30 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ40 ABS Failure
>
>
>The ABS failure warning on my 1988 XJ40 comes on intermittently. I have been
>advised not to bother trying to restore the system to working condition. (I
>noticed that at least one speed sensor is missing.) Anyone disagree? If not,
>does anyone know how to bypass the system (and the warning)?
You got bad advise. Fix the system.
If you are missing a wheel speed sensor, the warning will be *ON*... not
intermittent. The system will fail it's startup self-checks.
The two common failures are the main power relay and wheel speed sensors.
When / how often does the warning come on, and once it's on, does it ever
go back out during that driving session?
>
>Mike Kupritz
>Baltimore, Maryland
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
------------------------------
From: cobac@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sun, 8 Dec 1996 22:14:50 -0800
Subject: Re: XJ40 ABS Failure
I have a 1989 XJ40, I've never ever seen the ABS light. Somehow it was
disconnected by the PO. I was told by someone on the list that it was
dangerous because the ABS unit would have to be jumped power all the time to
cause the lamp NOT to light. Never was able to figure out what was done to
the lamp, couldn't figure out what wires to trace to see how the light was
disabled. Wish it did work, well sometimes :-), that way I would know if
the system was working correctly all the time. If you ever learn how to
disconnect the system, could you let me know, that way I can always reverse
the process to correct my problem.
Thanks,
cobac@ix.netcom.com
At 07:52 PM 12/8/96 -0500, you wrote:
>The ABS failure warning on my 1988 XJ40 comes on intermittently. I have been
>advised not to bother trying to restore the system to working condition. (I
>noticed that at least one speed sensor is missing.) Anyone disagree? If not,
>does anyone know how to bypass the system (and the warning)?
>
>Mike Kupritz
>Baltimore, Maryland
>
>
------------------------------
From: Randy Wilson <randy@taylor.infi.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 01:49:04 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Nothing gets finished.
>
>
>I started several Jaguar projects today and every one of them ended up half
>done because of parts.
> ...
>Then I finaly found a filter wrench (third one I tried) that would get to
>the filter (XJS) and I got it off. I went to the parts store to get a
>filter, guess what, they have to order it! Tomorrow I will look a few more
>places but for now that job is on hold and the Jag is on stands.
>
A filter from a SIII will fit on the V12 just fine. It's a just a bit
shorter. Some shops only stock and use the one filter for all cars.
>
>Anyone ever have any trouble pulling the rotor off the shaft of a V12? How
>did you do it?
All the time. Do NOT grab ahold and tug on it. I had one shatter and slice
the hell out of my fingers. If you want to try and get it off in one piece,
try looping some string around it in multiple places, and pulling on the
string. However, I have found that if I can not get them off by hand, they
do not come off in one piece. I no longer worry about it. If they don't
pull off, I grab the pliers. And sometimes a prick punch and mallet to
chip the pieces of the base off of the shaft. They sometimes get stuck that
badly.
If you only want to check the advance, you can do that with the cap off.
Just try to turn the rotor counter-clockwise. It should move 10 degrees
or so against light spring pressure, and snap right back when you release it.
With the rotor that gummed on, you will most likely find the advance
sluggish, if not totally stuck. They often stick in the full advanced
position.
> Jim
>
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
------------------------------
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 11:03:29 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: Nothing gets finished.
> I started several Jaguar projects today and every one of them ended up half
> done because of parts.
I had a similar experience a week or two ago when trying to change the
steeering rack tower shaft seal ... The problem with working on weekends
on your car is that you might have to wait 1 or 2 days until you get all
the parts ;-) [I always have a little stock of oil filters]
> I decided this would be a good time to check the advance on my "new car".
> Finaly got the disrtibutor cap off. Then I droped one of the screws that
> hold on the plastic inner cover and one was already missing (Ill bet its
> down there with the one I droped). The cap gasket broke into three pieces
> and the rotor wont budge. So that project is now on hold for parts and
> advice on removing the rotor.
I think the gasket is also a good thing to have a spare. Since I mail-order
most of my parts, I always order n+1 for gaskets, they are really not
expensive. BTW, I think you don't need to remove the inner plastic cover
in order to get the rotor off.
> Anyone ever have any trouble pulling the rotor off the shaft of a V12? How
> did you do it?
Yes I had a hard time. On Kirby's advice I insisted very gently and it
finally came off, but it took some time.
- - Matthias
------------------------------
From: "Peter Hamel (h)" <pete-hamel@dial.pipex.com>
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 12:43:30 +0000
Subject: SIII XJ6 Speedometer question
Hi All,
Is anyone familiar with the workings of the electronic type speedometer
on the Series 3 XJ? The mileometer section on mine has stopped working,
although the speedometer part works OK. I took it apart and checked that
mechanically it works OK. It seems to have a small stepper motor that
turns when pulses are received from the speed transducer. If I turn the
stepper motor by hand then the distance number wheels will turn, so I
guess either the stepper motor or the small circuit board in the
speedometer is not working.
Can I simulate the pulses received into the unit with it out of the car?
Are they just 12 volt pulses or would this damage the unit?
I don't have the trip computer or cruise control, so these don't come
into the equation. Can the stepper motor be bought on its own ?
Any help much appreciated
Thanks
Peter Hamel
'86 SIII 4.2
------------------------------
From: Lenny Seidman <lseidman@erols.com>
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 07:00:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Mk2 head and brake questions
glite@eos.net wrote:
>
>
> Other question, regarding rebuilding the brakes:
>
> After reading the Practical Classic Mk2 restoration, the Welsh and XK
> catalogs and some Jag magazines, I guess I can have the calipers
> re-sleeved, purchase new calipers (stock or stainless), or replace them
> with the 420 front calipers. Any suggestions as to the best way to
> go.
I just completed rebuilding the entire braking system on my Daimler
2.5(MkII):calipers front and rear, master cylinder, brake boster
assembly and all hoses. I salvaged most of my caliper pistons although I
had to use 2 from my MKII parts car, and had the cylinders resleeved in
brass. Apple Hydraulics did the work and did an excellent job.The
pistons can be removed by soaking them for a few days in something like
WD40 rust penetrant and by using compressed air to help free the
pistons. Also by putting the caliper half in a strong vise and by
levering on 2 sides of the piston this sometimes will also do the job.
Take your time and most often the pistons can be released. The cheapest
way to go is resleeving and using as many of the the old pistons or even
some good used pistons with resleeved cylinders and new kits.
The brake booster job is not that difficult except for the adjustment of
the long rod inside one of the sections. Thin depth reading tools are
needed to measure distances . I had a friend of mine who has access to
all kinds of measuring devices help me set my booster up. I would
strongly suggest a rebuild or replacement of the booster assembly.
Also while all the brake units were off the car I cleaned out all the
the lines with air then I sprayed brake clean into the lines until the
brake clean came out each line at each corner of the car. I did this by
blocking off the ends of all the lines with a piece of hose and a bolt
at the end of the hose and hose clamped tight. Then I removed the
hose/bolt furthest from the front of the car(left rear) and sprayed.Then
the next furthest(right rear) and so on until all the lines had been
cleaned out. The last thing you want is some dirt or crud from inside
the lines going into your newly rebuilt and sleeved brake components!
Hope this helps.
- --
Lenny Seidman
Elkins Park, Pennsylvania, USA
email: lseidman@erols.com
------------------------------
From: "Gammer, Paul VN-AT" <GammerP@VIENPO2.AT.unisys.com>
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 96 12:38:00 GMT
Subject: RE: Importing to Australia ?
Mike
I have just gone through the process of importing my XJRS into Australia
(it just arrived last Tuesday), and I can field most of the questions
that you may ask. However, I can give you a brief rundown to start with.
The main points are:
1. Satisfying ownership compliance.
The easiest way to get a car into Oz, and to also satisfy Australian
Compliance is for you to have owned the vehicle for at least three
continuous months, for you to be in the same country as this vehicle for
this time, and for the vehicle to be fully (should be comprehensively)
insured for this period. If you have done all of the above, then you can
import the vehicle under the personal import scheme, and you don't have
to go through the hassle of getting a Australian Compliance Plate fitted.
2. Safety requirements.
There are some minimum safety requirements. For my car I had to change
the following. Being a UK spec, I had to change the speedometer from
Miles/Km to KILOMETRES ONLY. I was quoted UKP120 with fitting in England,
and AUD$600 plus fitting in Australia - do this in England and ask for a
certificate/letter confirming your old odometer reading. The car must be
Right Hand Drive. You must also have three child restraint bolts fitted
which are used for mounting child seats. Don't ask why ? this is a must,
I have chosen to do this in Oz because I am not sure exactly what is
required, but be prepared. Finally, (for me at least) all mirrors must be
of flat class - no concave/convex mirrors are allowed. I will also do
this in Oz.
3. Import duties.
Import duty is currently at 56%, yep thats right 56%, of the value of the
vehicle. The value of the vehicle is determined by the purchase price of
the vehicle minus a depreciation allowance. You can depreciate the
vehicle at a rate of 5% for the first month, then 1% for subsequent
months. Therefore 5 months is 9% (1x5 and 4x1). The formula for import
duty is (PURCHASE - DEPRECIATION) x 56%. Is it worth it ? For me it
definitely was. Beware, Australian Customs are thorough. To prove
purchase price, you must have a receipt, bank statements, copies of the
draft, and insurance documents that all tally. I have heard horror
stories of people undervaluing their vehicles and falling foul of
Customs, only to lose their vehicle or pay a hefty fine (as well as the
duty).
4. Shipping.
Shipping cost me about UKP1150. I would recommend Karmen Shipping if
shipping from the UK - their number is (01525) 851545. They have an
excellent information pack that gives you all of the information,
including the latest import duty rates (which change constantly), safety
requirements, and approximate values of vehicles (for many makes and
models). Call them if just for their information pack alone.
Hope this is enough to get you started.
regards
Paul Gammer
88 XJRS (John - this is a 6.0 - I found the PO who went to TWR).
gammerp@vienpo2.at.unisys.com (until 10-Dec-96)
pgammer@usa.net (from 9-Dec-96)
------------------------------
From: Gunnar Helliesen <gunnar@bitcon.no>
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 14:08:36 +0100
Subject: [SIII XJ6] Need some advice
Folks,
As some of you might remember, my '86 Series III Sovereign 4.2 is in the
shop after a nasty accident I had in October (long story, I went off the
road in a turn).
I've asked the garage that does the work (Norway's only official Jaguar
dealer) to let me know if there's anything that they recommend being
done to the car while it's in bits and pieces anyway. They've more or
less told me that the car is in very good shape and they could find
nothing that needs repairing apart from the obvious damage from the
accident (which the insurance company is paying for).
The status as of today is: The engine and transmission is out of the
car. The car itself is at a body-shop for straightening (most of the
work is done). They've put on the new fenders (wings), welded in some
new bits and pieces at the front and are currently working on
straightening the hood (bonnet). When this work is done (in a few days)
they will paint the inside of the engine compartment and send the car
back to the dealer who will put the engine and transmission back in.
After that the car goes back to the body-shop again for an exterior
paint job and final assembly.
My question is: Is there anything I should insist on having done to the
engine or transmission (BW automatic, of course) while they're out of
the car anyway? Anything on the rest of the car? I can't do it myself as
the car is in Oslo and I live in Bergen (500 km away) so I would have to
pay them to do it for me.
Oh, the car had clocked some 180k km (112k miles) before the accident.
Gunnar
- --
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar Sovereign 4.2
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | '73 Mercedes 280 (240D)
------------------------------
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #577
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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 9 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 578
Nothing gets finished. -Reply
Re: Miata /Lotus what next?
Re: Cat Trick #1:Interior Lights On, won't go off
XJ-S headlights
Cleaning wire wheels
series 1 xj 6
Limited slip diffs
Proton, no jag
British Plate Numbers and Years
Daimler 420 Limo parts, in US or UK
Rough idle
Re: Miata /Lotus what next?
Re: Cleaning wire wheels
Re: XJ40 Hydraulics
Color code (MKII)
1 to 3 wire 02 sensor change XJ6 S3 & Virus checking
re: Swedishbrick crossover
Road Vibration-At Wits End
Re: Fwd: Dying wish (fwd)
Sailing/Absolutely No Jaguar content.
Re: Fwd: Dying wish (fwd)
Re: Cleaning wire wheels
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Steve Draper <s_draper@wcsr.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 08:09:47 -0500
Subject: Nothing gets finished. -Reply
Jim, I was was working on the distributor ('88 xj-s) this weekend too. I
have some advice and some questions. Advice: I got the rotor off, w/o
breaking it, by clipping a clothes hanger in two, making two u-shapes,
slipping them under the rotor as close to the shaft as possible, and lifting
vertically. It popped off. Keep the clothes hanger lifters, b/c you can
use them if your car has the metal star shaped thing that actuates the
electrical switch. I couldn't get it off any other way.
Questions: On the carrier shaft, the book says there should be some
felt and then a nylon clip (or screw on older cars). I had no felt; no
surprise. But further, I see no nylon clip, but I do see what looks like a
metal washer or some such. Is this something that holds the carrier?
Should I simply grab with pliers and lift vertically? Also, the springs on
the centrifugal weights are different. I bet they're not meant to be? Am I
right?
Any further advice on the distributor overhaul? Thanks.
- --Steve
'88 xj-s
'89 xj40vdp
e-mail at:
s_draper@wcsr.com
------------------------------
From: "Lee Walden" <lwalden@ebmud.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 07:35:35 -0800
Subject: Re: Miata /Lotus what next?
I'm Back...
Kirby wrote:
> > Steve:
> > > > ...the Mazda Miata is an MG rip off.
> >
> > No, it's not! It's a Lotus Elan ripoff!
The Lotus Elan came out AFTER the Miata. A long time after. I'm talking
about the 90's Elan, not any earlier models using that name.
> >
Adam wrote:
> > Anyway, the Miata/MX-5 wide-mouthed frog grin is pure E-type. Is this a
> > rip-off or a homage? Depends on your level of tolerance.
More like paying homage to the MG than the XK-E. The Datsun (Nissan) 240Z
was the XK-E swipe.
Don Wrote:
> LOTUS-EATING
> Proton, a Malaysian car maker, is paying 51m ($83m) for a 64% stake in
> Lotus,a British car maker best known for its luxurious sports cars.
> I also saw where one of the Korean makers had brought the (design?)
> rights to the last little Lotus sports that the MX5(Miata)ran out of
> business ,can't remember the model name.
The KIA (not Killed In Action) motor company bought all of the molds and
rights to the Lotus Elan (90's) model. They are going to re-introduce it
to the American Market. It will be based on the Mazda MX-3 chassis.
I have a photo of the Elan parked next to a Mercury Capri. The Elan
doesn't have a back seat, but other than that, the cars look a lot alike.
The Lotus was designed in Italy, built from Isuzu components in England.
The Capri was designed in the same Italian design firm, built in Australia
from Mazda components.
KIA plans to build the "new Lotus" from Mazda components ala the Capri,
since Ford decided to drop the Capri in 94. (It cost less than the new
Mustang, and would out perform the "stock" Mustang too. Why buy the 25K
Mustang when you could buy the 15K Capri. Kill the Capri and you force
people to buy the Mustang if they want a "small" convertible from Ford.
Now we have the 70K convertible from Ford too, the XK-8).
I got this info from the KIA rep at the Auto Show in SF Nov 25th. Lee
------------------------------
From: WALENK@MAIL.STATE.WI.US
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 10:06:52 -0600
Subject: Re: Cat Trick #1:Interior Lights On, won't go off
*Greetings all. I've been silently following the site for about a month and
think its great. My name is Kane Walent and I finally (after many
years) succumbed to jag ownership of a '92 XJ-s coupe, black/tan
(magnolia?) 38k miles, a Texas car coming out of lease, purchased at
Howard Orloff's in Chicago. I chose a '92 model hoping to avoid the
curse of the sons of Lucas, but alas, I have my first cat trick.
All the interior lights are on, including the red Door Guard Lamps,
and stay on without reference the positions of doors, keys, or the
passage of time. All interior lights are on, except the Interior Roof
Light, which is as dead as a Norweigan Blue it all three of its
purported positions.
I can think of three contributing factors. First I did have a bulb
fault light go on and it seems I just read in the "XJ-S:Headlights"
thread that improper connection backfeeds through the bulb failure
unit and powers other lights. True? That's remarkably perverse, even
for a Jaguar! Second, the weather here in Wisconsin has hovered 5
degrees above and below freezing all week. Lastly, I let my
girlfriend drive the Jag which I suspect has a female personality.
Thanks in advance.
Kane
XJS '92, Caddy Seville '85
------------------------------
From: "William R. Frenchu" <wrf@pluto.njcc.com>
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 11:11:35 -0500
Subject: XJ-S headlights
For what it's worth, my '91 (US spec) XJ-S specifies the following
headlamps (I believe 91 was the last year before the "euro" lights
were used in the states):
The manual specifies: (inner) 12V 50W JLM215 halogen
(outer) 12V 35/35W JLM216 halogen
However, the car has had (since I've owned in... 1993):
(inner) Wagner 1C1 (wattage unknown) halogen
(outer) Wagner 2C1 (wattage unknown) halogen
- --
=====================================================================
Bill Frenchu |"Back when *I* was a
wrf@pluto.njcc.com (609) 466-2604 | boy, we carved our
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/wrf | own IC's out of wood."
=====================================================================
------------------------------
From: Martin Grossman <martin_g@Oldham.gpsemi.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 16:12:15 GMT
Subject: Cleaning wire wheels
I don't actually have wire wheels on my Daimler but I do have them on
one of my other cars, a Alvis TE21. I believe they are the same as
those fitted to the MKII and I was wondering how owners went about
cleaning them?
I'm a bit concerned that if I use some sort of powerful degreaser ( the
spray on hose off kind) it could work it's way onto the splines and
dilute the anti-seize compound I've used. At the moment I'm planning on
using a power-wash ( high pressure water ) and just some car shampoo.
Anybody like to share their methods?
Cheers
Martin Grossman (1990 Daimler 4.0)
***********************************
GEC Plessey Semiconductors
Oldham
UK
***********************************
------------------------------
From: ultrapak <ultrapak@sprynet.com>
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 08:52:44 -0800
Subject: series 1 xj 6
1971 XJ 6 BRGw/BLACK INT. NEW BRAKES, NEW PAINT, ABOUT 70% RESTORED BUT
ALL ORIGINAL AND COMPLETE. NO RUST , RUNS GOOD.
MB
ULTRAPAK@SPRYNET.COM
------------------------------
From: Kevin.Campbell@vwr-inc.com
Date: Monday, 9 December 1996 9:35am PT
Subject: Limited slip diffs
I believe my XJ40 has a limited slip, though it's not a VDP. It does have a
block heater, heated seats, headlamp washers. When on the hoist if I spin one
driven wheel the opposite wheel rotates in the SAME direction, I always seem
to remember that it would rotate in the opposite direction with a normal diff.
If one wheel is rotated by hand the other wheel can still quite easily be held
still.
Question: How can I tell if I have a limited slip, and if I do does this mean
it isn't working?I have experienced wheel spin when moving off with one side o
n a loose surface.
Kevin
------------------------------
From: Richard Griffiths <73564.2101@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 09 Dec 96 13:14:09 EST
Subject: Proton, no jag
Don tracy wrote
>>>Reported recently on the net
LOTUS-EATING
Proton, a Malaysian car maker, is paying 51m ($83m) for a 64% stake in
Lotus,a British car maker best known for its luxurious sports cars.
I also saw where one of the Korean makers had brought the (design?)
rights to the last little Lotus sports that the MX5(Miata)ran out of
business ,can't remember the model name.
Don Tracey
50 Mk5 (in bits)
58 xk150(in bits)
60 Mk2(in bits too)
Australia<<<<
Don does have a lot of Jag. bits in his garage does'nt he ?
FYI, Proton is a division of a major Malaysian company called DRB who seem to do
just about everything from civil works to automotive mfg. through alliances with
Japanese companies. It's also possible they have looked at the technology of
the US company that runs engines on fuels consisting of approx. 50% water.
If so its interesting to speculate what this might lead to, maybe a Miata Proton
Elan that James Bond could actually drive under water,
Cheers
Richard
Two old technology gas powered Jags.
------------------------------
From: MCDOWELLWIL@hardy.texsci.edu
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 14:15 EDT
Subject: British Plate Numbers and Years
Hello all: There was talk some time ago about the last letter of the
British number plates equaling the year. Could anyone tell me the
formula. Perhaps one of you could also tell me what defines
the year a car is in the UK. A friend told me it was the year
it was first registered, not built.
Bill McDowell, Philadelphia PA
Daimler 420 Limo, RHD EGW 186J Registered as a 71 in the UK a 70 in US
------------------------------
From: MCDOWELLWIL@hardy.texsci.edu
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 14:21 EDT
Subject: Daimler 420 Limo parts, in US or UK
Has anoyone seen a late 60's or early 70's or any year for that matter
Daimler 420 Limo in a junk yard. I need some specific parts for mine.
In particular, the entire trunk interior, the front rugs, and the
oversized hood ornament. Any options would be nice too. The custom
build list was very long for options. If the car is in the US or the
person is a shipper in the UK, I need the power divider glass, as well.
I called the jag yards in Florida, California and Virginia, and they said
not in this country. I tought I would give it a try.
Bill McDowell, Philadelphia PA USA. 1970 Daimler 420 Limo RHD
------------------------------
From: ultrapak <ultrapak@sprynet.com>
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 11:34:09 -0800
Subject: Rough idle
I have a 1987 XJ6 and am having problems with rough idle. The car has
98000 miles. I've changed plugs, wires,fuelfilter,checked timing. The
only thing that I have not done yet is check timing chain adjustment.
Does anybody have any ideas as to how I can solve this problem.
Mike Bittner
ultrapak@sprynet.com
------------------------------
From: "Mark McChesney" <mmcchesn@ford.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 14:48:55 -0500
Subject: Re: Miata /Lotus what next?
On Dec 9, 7:35am, Lee Walden wrote:
> Subject: Re: Miata /Lotus what next?
> The Capri was designed in the same Italian design firm,
Well, no.
The Ghia Barchetta (beautiful little car) was the design theme for the
Capri(not so beautiful). The Barchetta was designed at the Turin (Italy) based
design house of, you guessed it, Ghia (my former employer). The actual Capri
was done right here in beautiful downtown Dearborn, Mi 'Merica. The Capri
styling was done by Denis Reardon('Merican) and the now retired David
Rees(Brit) and a few others. The surface layout, engineering and feas work was
done in Italy at Italdesign and a few details were done at the Ford design
studio in Australia (but they won't admit to it :-)). The Capri was done on an
old Mazda 323 platform that made it very difficult to get a decent design from,
ie the 323 door hinge locations made the bodyside almost flat etc... Oh yea,
the very nice face lift('93) was done by Paul Gibson in Australia, who is at
the next desk down from me (now in Dearborn). :-) Paul says hi.
The '90s Lotus Elan was done by Peter Stevens(UK), not an Italian design
firm. I'm a Ford guy, but I'd never put the Capri in the same aesthetic league
with the '90s Lotus Elan.
Mark McChesney
------------------------------
From: TVJohn2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 14:55:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Cleaning wire wheels
In a message dated 96-12-09 11:15:36 EST, you write:
<< I'm a bit concerned that if I use some sort of powerful degreaser ( the
spray on hose off kind) it could work it's way onto the splines and
dilute the anti-seize compound I've used. At the moment I'm planning on
using a power-wash ( high pressure water ) and just some car shampoo.
>>
I have wires on my '90 xj40 and share your concerns non the less laziness
compells me to use a spray on. I love "Quick Silver" from the Armourall
folks. So fast and powerful it is scary (the fumes are overwhelming too -
God knows what it is).
One problem isa the slight milkey haze it leaves (probably part of the ozone
layer).
Anyone had any luck rinsing this off???
Wheels are spotless under this and it wipes of easily but old fartdom
precludes spending my weekends as a detailer.
------------------------------
From: cobac@ix.netcom.com
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 11:56:11 -0800
Subject: Re: XJ40 Hydraulics
Just looking at the October issue of Hemmings Motor News. Jag Services
(16820 South Lathrop; Harvey, IL 60426) 1-800-842-0912 has the rear shock
kit listed for $450.00. They have pretty good service, too. All the items
they sell are genuine Jag parts, and my parts were all packaged in Jag boxes.
At 07:52 PM 12/8/96 -0500, you wrote:
>Thanks to all who responded about the rear suspension on my XJ40. The
>consensus seems to be that I need to get the changeover kit. While you guys
>are slugging it out over spring length, does anyone know where to get the
>best price on this item? I hear SICP has it for $475(US). Any good?
>
>Mike Kupritz
>Baltimore, Maryland
>
>
------------------------------
From: martin.jacobsen@login.eunet.no (Martin Jacobsen)
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 22:05:47 -0100
Subject: Color code (MKII)
Hello,
I'm finished with the welding on my MKII (61) - just welding in new
sidelamps remains. I have to re-spray the car. I'm quite sure the color is
carmen red. Can anybody tell me the "mixture-code" we have to use getting
the same color?
Thank you.
Martin
------------------------------
From: Kyle Chatman <kchatman@mail.coin.missouri.edu>
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 14:02:04 -0600
Subject: 1 to 3 wire 02 sensor change XJ6 S3 & Virus checking
Has anyone replaced the 1 wire 02 sensor with a 3 wire unit, connecting =
the extra 2 so that the sensor more quickly reaches operating =
temperature? If so, which sensor did you use and was the change due to =
faster closed-system operation worth it? Thanks.
Also, as a side comment, John Littler suggested that Gerald should have =
tested whether he had a virus program by setting the date so that the =
virus would have been activated if it were in fact a true virus. I can =
see that this might be a reasonable action to take if you were very =
confident that there was no virus and wanted to prove that opinion as =
fact but it seems an odd step to take if you were uncertain.=20
------------------------------
From: David J Shield <David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com>
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 96 12:12:00 PST
Subject: re: Swedishbrick crossover
Ryan Michals wrote:
>...I have the opportunity to get a really great XJ6..... I
>currently own a volvo which has been great and I don't know if I
>want to give up the reliability. Can anyone offer any
>suggestions on what to look for before I buy?
Ryan,
Along with the great advice you'll get from the list members,
search Nick's Jag site thoroughly, it'll answer most of your
questions. And my advice: Keep the Volvo until you've dealt with
all the problems that will pop up during the first few months of
ownership. Don't sell it unless you have to.
David
'84 XJ6
'70 E-type
'87 Volvo 745TGA (I"m driving it today)
------------------------------
From: "Michael C. Clement" <74131.2201@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 09 Dec 96 15:39:41 EST
Subject: Road Vibration-At Wits End
HELP!!!!!!
Recently reported to list with questions about a vibration I have been getting
in the car (1990 XJ 40) when the car reaches 35 mph.
With the help of the feedback I received from some of you, I did the
following-with associated results:
1. Took it to an independent Jag mechanic ( strong reputation in local Jag
club-also a member)- he said he thought the u-joints, the engine mounts, the
center bearing mount, and the drive shaft and engine compression were OKAY. He
suggested I take it to his Transmission specialist to check out the Torque
Converter.
2. Took it to Transmission spec. and had the trans and the drive train checked
out.-He felt the torque converter and transmission were NOT the likely culprit.
His reasoning: vibration when car is placed in "D" with regular brake on and at
35 mph would occur all the time or at least more often if it were the TORQUE
converter. His mechanic also noticed that rear U-joints had not been lubed "in
years." He lubed them, gratis.
3. Talked to independent mech. again, he suggested taking it to a dealer and get
their input/diagnosis.
4. Took it to dealer-swears the DRIVESHAFT/ VALVES are bad; COST-$3,500-4,000.
5. Took it to a drivetrain specialist (recommended by transmission spec.)-does
not think the rear u-joints are bad, not sure about the driveshaft and center
bearing mount because they are mounted above the exhaust sytem and not
completely visible. Recommended I take it to a drivetrain specialist who is
equiped and able to pull the exhaust system and examine all the u-joints and
center bearing mount and adjustment.
Strange thing: after transmission guy lubed rear-end, vibration is not as acute,
but still exists. Really at wits end about what to do or where to go next.
ADVICE and SUGGESTIONS more than welcomed. I am begging for them!!
Thanks in advance,
Mike Clement
------------------------------
From: jonathon@protech.com (Jonathon Shevelew)
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 20:41:37 GMT
Subject: Re: Fwd: Dying wish (fwd)
On Sat, 7 Dec 1996 11:02:02 -0500, Jazzy1111@aol.com wrote:
>
>---------------------
>Forwarded message:
>From: celevin@earthlink.net (Charles Levin)
>Reply-to: celevin@earthlink.net
>To: ntindel@aol.com
>CC: irat@juno.com, levinst@aporter.com, jazzy1111@aol.com, DLB96@aol.com
>Date: 96-12-07 00:27:15 EST
>
>Received: from emout12.mail.aol.com (emout12.mx.aol.com [198.81.11.38]) =
by
>holland.it.earthlink.net (8.7.5/8.7.3) with SMTP id IAA12866 for
><celevin@earthlink.net>; Fri, 6 Dec 1996 08:55:59 -0800 (PST)
>From: Egla1@aol.com
>Received: by emout12.mail.aol.com (8.6.12/8.6.12) id LAA29164; Fri, 6 =
Dec
>1996 11:55:00 -0500
>Date: Fri, 6 Dec 1996 11:55:00 -0500
>Message-ID: <961206115459_707583902@emout12.mail.aol.com>
>To: DSapadin@aol.com
>cc: debbie@msn.com, appel@apk.net, celevin@earthlink.net, =
leah@musenet.org
>Subject: Re: Fwd: Dying wish (fwd)
>
>>i just thought this was really nice. this is not a chain letter. love, =
casey
>>---------------------
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>Some things just can't be explained but it is through God that we
>>accept the
>>>>>>>unexplainable.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Peace and Love,
>>>>>>> Jennie
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>This little boy at the Mayo Clinic is very sick and he knows that =
he
>>>>>>>will die. Well you know how they have those "Make a Wish =
Foundations"
>>that
>>>>>>>give terminally ill kids a dying wish, well this is kind of like =
that.
>>>>>>>He likes computers and his wish is to live forever by having his =
chain
>>>>>>>letter
>>>>>>>be eternally passed on the Internet. This is not some joke. And =
for
>>>>>>>those of you who care please send this to as many people as =
possible
>>so his
>>>>>>>wish can be granted. (THIS IS NOT A CHAIN LETTER JUST DO SOMETHING=
NICE
>>>>>>>FOR ONCE!) It is all the way down at the bottom.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>Had to do his last wish.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>My dying wish
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>My name is Anthony Parkin, and you don't know me. I'm
>>>>>>>7 years old, and I have lukemea. I found your name using gopher,
>>>>>>>and I would like for you to carry out my dying wish of starting a =
chain
>>>>>>>letter.
>>>>>>>Please send this letter to five people you know so I can live
>>>>>>>forever.
>>>>>>> Thank You very much
>
>
>
>
This message touched a serious chord, and one of the best ways I could
think of to continue this message is through this list. Whenever I
get to wrapped up in day to day stuff and forget what's really
important, something like this message is a good reminder!!
Peace
Jonathon Shevelew
'95 XJ-S 4.0L Convertible
'93 VDP
'96 Explorer (something for the kids to dirty up)
jonathon@protech.com
------------------------------
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 14:58:11 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Sailing/Absolutely No Jaguar content.
I am sorry I am using this method to get some information but I felt Jaguar
owners are usualy adventurous and may be able to help me find something.
I am looking for a list, simular to this, that is interested in
cruising/sailing, especialy blue water cruising.
Anyone know of one?
JIM I.
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas."
Gen. Emiliano Zapata
1879-1919
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 21:56:55 +0100
Subject: Re: Fwd: Dying wish (fwd)
[ jonathon@protech.com (Jonathon Shevelew) ]
| >>>>>>>
| >>>>>>>My dying wish
| >
| This message touched a serious chord, and one of the best ways I could
| think of to continue this message is through this list. Whenever I
| get to wrapped up in day to day stuff and forget what's really
| important, something like this message is a good reminder!!
Please keep this crap of the list. No further warnings
will be given.
Nick (admin)
- --
Nick Johannessen // nick@sn.no // http://www.sn.no/home/nick/
------------------------------
From: "Lee Walden" <lwalden@ebmud.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 14:02:07 -0800
Subject: Re: Cleaning wire wheels
It's Phosphoric Acid based. Also try Eagle One cleaner. It's available in
different strengths based on the wheel composition. Open Pore Aluminum,
Magnesium, Clear Coated (Lacquer covered), Chrome, and polished Al. Spray
on, hose off. Light buffing with a terry towel.
> I have wires on my '90 xj40 and share your concerns non the less laziness
> compells me to use a spray on. I love "Quick Silver" from the Armourall
> folks.
> God knows what it is).
Lee
------------------------------
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #578
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X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest
jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 10 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 579
A/C condensers - cleaning
re: virtual clubs
Re: Ignition capacitor
RE: Nothing gets finished. -Reply
Re: XJ-S Headlights - The Plot Thickens
RE: Road Vibration-At Wits End
Re: Sailing/Absolutely No Jaguar content.
alternative fuels
Re: Distributor Overhaul
'S' Type for sale.
More Reviews
RE: XJ6 Series III Lukewarm Starting.
Re: XJ40 ABS Failure
Re: 1 to 3 wire 02 sensor change XJ6 S3 & Virus checking
post cards
You have a postcard!
ADMIN : You have a postcard!
Re: Ignition capacitor
Re: A/C condensers - cleaning
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: David J Shield <David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com>
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 96 14:08:00 PST
Subject: A/C condensers - cleaning
Hi - I was cleaning the outside of the E-type's A/C condenser in
preparation for straightening the fins and painting the sides
(The condenser has only recently been removed from the car, but
until then the system had been intact although totally
non-functional for probably 10 years.) I wondered how clean is
was inside, so after blasting some air through it and getting
nothing out, no dust or bugs or anything, I poured in about 1/2
cup of lacquer thinner. Put the plugs back in and sloshed it
around, then uncapped the fittings and poured it out. The liquid
came out not clear, but the color of a light-ish beer, like
Corona.
I assume there should be nothing in there, just clean metal, so
unless someone tells me otherwise, I'll give it another treatment
till it's clear (then I'll send lots of air through).
David
'70 2+2
------------------------------
From: David J Shield <David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com>
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 96 14:32:00 PST
Subject: re: virtual clubs
As for a listing of Jaguar clubs, Jon Heber has made such a
compilation ("All The Jaguar Clubs Of The World").
http://www.intex.net/~cci/jagdir1.html
I don't know how aggressively Jon has been marketing this list, I
think many of the jag-lovers are unaware of it. Is it up to
date? Dunno.
Usual disclaimers.
David
Owner of a pair of Jaguars
------------------------------
From: "Lauren E. Pratt" <pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov>
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 96 16:34:33 PST
Subject: Re: Ignition capacitor
Micael and Hunt and all.
Just a note on something I learned a long time ago. You can not
use just any capacitor with any coil. The capacitor MUST be
matched to the inductance of the coil. An under valued capacitor
will cause a pit in the negative point contact. Notice the three
negatives. UNDER value, PIT, and NEGATIVE contact. Therefore an
over sized cap will put a pit on the positive contact. A proper
valued cap will not pit either point contact. By observing the
condition of the points you can determine if the cap is too small
or too large.
Hope this helps
Cheers Lauren 65 FHC
- -------------------------------------
Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 12/9/96
Time: 4:34:33 PM
This message was sent by Chameleon
- -------------------------------------
------------------------------
From: Aaron Burnett <aaron.burnett@attws.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 15:13:32 -0800
Subject: RE: Nothing gets finished. -Reply
Steve,
I also have re-worked my distributor ('85 XJ-S). I also had no felt for
my distributor. Also, the springs in my distributor were different --
just as you described.
Aaron
'85 XJ-S
>----------
>From: Steve Draper[SMTP:s_draper@wcsr.com]
>Sent: Monday, December 09, 1996 5:09 AM
>To: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu; jag-lovers@sn.no
>Subject: Nothing gets finished. -Reply
>
>Jim, I was was working on the distributor ('88 xj-s) this weekend too. I
>have some advice and some questions. Advice: I got the rotor off, w/o
>breaking it, by clipping a clothes hanger in two, making two u-shapes,
>slipping them under the rotor as close to the shaft as possible, and lifting
>vertically. It popped off. Keep the clothes hanger lifters, b/c you can
>use them if your car has the metal star shaped thing that actuates the
>electrical switch. I couldn't get it off any other way.
>Questions: On the carrier shaft, the book says there should be some
>felt and then a nylon clip (or screw on older cars). I had no felt; no
>surprise. But further, I see no nylon clip, but I do see what looks like a
>metal washer or some such. Is this something that holds the carrier?
>Should I simply grab with pliers and lift vertically? Also, the springs on
>the centrifugal weights are different. I bet they're not meant to be? Am I
>right?
>
>Any further advice on the distributor overhaul? Thanks.
>--Steve
> '88 xj-s
> '89 xj40vdp
>e-mail at:
> s_draper@wcsr.com
>
>
------------------------------
From: John Goodman <101547.1141@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 09 Dec 96 18:22:02 EST
Subject: Re: XJ-S Headlights - The Plot Thickens
==========
mail/messages #1691, from John_Goodman, 2782 chars, Mon, 09 Dec 1996
11:21:22
Comment to 1645.
- ----------
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 11:21:22
From: John Goodman [101547,1141]
Subject: Re: XJ-S Headlights - The Plot Thickens
Message-Id: <000000005601>
In-Reply-To: <199612090229.AA20012@gcn.scri.fsu.edu>
Content-Type: Text object
To: palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
>>No no no, you misunderstand, I wasn't asking about the 9004. I know
EXACTLY what a 9004 is, it has very little in common with either H4
or H1. Whole 'nother critter. Hence, there are at least THREE "Euro
style" headlight assemblies for the XJ-S -- not counting the LHD vs.
RHD versions.<<
Describe a 9004 is it twin filament/ halogen ?
>>Perhaps, but LHD critters have been fitted to European cars from the
outset, haven't they?<<
Presumably ? Where's our German and Europe list members, are your local
registered cars oval or 4 round headlamps ?? we NEED input here.
[My Jaguar owners handbook states that the dimmed dip facility is
only available on UK cars.]
>>Probably some law. Do other cars in UK have a similar feature? We
are just now getting GM cars with a similar feature (except that it's
a dimmed HIGH beam) as GM's own safety feature -- really stupid.<<
High beam ....Weird!! Other UK cars, ummmm (scratching head) not many !
It's certainly not law,
[ When I converted my previous XJ-S to 4 headlights the dim system still
works because all 4 lights are the same and still use the H4 bulbs.
Although It remains a mystery why the genuine Jag kit did not have
dedicated driving lights for the inner pair with H1 bulbs. Well it
stops us putting the wrong lamp in the wrong hole I suppose !!]
>>I have to ask about that "genuine Jag kit". Do you mean that Jaguar
itself -- not a parts supplier -- offered kits in the UK to convert to
the 4-headlight system? And that ALL FOUR lights used the H4's? That's
kinda weird, I woulda expected H1's on the inner lights. What's
more, it can't have anything to do with the US version, since those
cars CANNOT use H4's. Do all four headlights light up on low beam?<<
Yes, Jaguar kit part no. JLM 10357. A link wire supplied with the kit
only enables the inner lights on dip. Could easily be wired for both
pairs on dip, but would screw up the dim/ dip and not sure if it's
legal. Looks like it's been done this way for simplicity of owner
installation.
The only parts common with the US would be the chrome bezel and mounting
backplate.
A friend got a kit from David Manners (big Jag parts supplier) alot
cheaper but was missing the screws, link wires and had cheap nasty
sealed beam outers and quite good *Lucas* H1 driving lights for the
inners !!!
If we can't get no 1992 on US input here you will just have to phone
your local friendly Jag dealer and ask what bulbs are fitted !!!
John Goodman
'89 XJR-S 6.0L
John Goodman
'89 XJR-S 6.0L
------------------------------
From: "Scott Jarvis" <scott@telonics.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 16:37:52 -0700
Subject: RE: Road Vibration-At Wits End
- ----------
From: Michael C. Clement[SMTP:74131.2201@CompuServe.COM]
Sent: Monday, December 09, 1996 1:39 PM
To: JAG-LOVERS
Subject: Road Vibration-At Wits End
HELP!!!!!!
Recently reported to list with questions about a vibration I have been =
getting
in the car (1990 XJ 40) when the car reaches 35 mph.
Mike, I recently purchased an 83 XJ6 which has a bad vibration at =
40-45 mph. Changing the u-joints on the second half of the drive shaft =
did not correct my problem, even though the joints were indeed bad. The =
front half does involve dropping the exhaust. I'll let you know the =
results if I get around to changing the front joints and center bearing. =
You might look to see if a drive shaft balance weight may have fallen =
off (after thought).
Best of luck!
Scott Jarvis
83 XJ6
86 Mustang Conv.
91 Blazer
------------------------------
From: Cliff Sadler <ata@netsrq.com>
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 19:39:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Sailing/Absolutely No Jaguar content.
Jim Isbell wrote:
>
> I am sorry I am using this method to get some information but I felt Jaguar
> owners are usualy adventurous and may be able to help me find something.
>
> I am looking for a list, simular to this, that is interested in
> cruising/sailing, especialy blue water cruising.
>
> Anyone know of one?
>
> JIM I.
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------
> "Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas."
>
> Gen. Emiliano Zapata
> 1879-1919
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------
The closest thing I've read is a newsgroup called rec.boats.cruising
seems to have mostly blow boaters, but all stink potters read it
anyways.
Me? I'm ambidextreous (did I spell that right?)
------------------------------
From: kkrofft@juno.com (Kordon E. Krofft)
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 19:54:14 PST
Subject: alternative fuels
I face the prospect of having to make my '79 XJ6 pass Ohio's E-Check
emmissions test in the next year or so.
This delemma has me wondering about the possibility of using a cleaner
burning fuel in this car. Perhaps
propane or natural gas would work.
The questions:
1. What are the chances that I could simply apply the correct pressure of
fuel to the injector rail and allow the ECM
to adjust injection time accordingly.
2. If not then, has anybody successfully converted a Series III to
another fuel?
3. Are there any applicable kits?
Thanks,
Kory Krofft
'64 E-Type Cpe
'79 XJ6 SIII
------------------------------
From: Derek Hibbs <Derek.Hibbs@wizardis.com.au>
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 12:04:24 +1100
Subject: Re: Distributor Overhaul
<Steve Draper wrote in part:>
Questions: On the carrier shaft, the book says there should be some
felt and then a nylon clip (or screw on older cars). I had no felt; no
surprise. But further, I see no nylon clip, but I do see what looks like a
metal washer or some such. Is this something that holds the carrier?
Should I simply grab with pliers and lift vertically? Also, the springs on
the centrifugal weights are different. I bet they're not meant to be? Am I
right?
<>
Steve, I have just overhauled the distributor on my 77 XJ-S so I hope my
comments are relevant.
Could that 'metal washer' be the circlip to hold the ignition pickup or a
spring?
The felt pad is supposed to be inside the carrier shaft (visible when the
rotor is removed) and can be prised out with a small jewellers screwdriver
or tweezers. The screw is located under the felt pad.
My springs were different and I believe this is correct. The different size
springs allow for a varying amount of advance depending upon RPM. Don't
change them unless you have good reason too.
I hope these comments help.
Regards,
Derek Hibbs
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
77 BRG XJ-S, 5.3lt EFI V12
"Even when it's broken, my XJ-S still looks great sitting in the garage."
Wizard Information Services Pty Ltd Canberra, Australia
Ph: 61+ 6 2750750 Fax: 61+ 6 2750777
Email: Derek.Hibbs@wizardis.com.au WWW: http://wizardis.com.au/~derekh
From: “MarrioSD” marriosd@ccmail.apldbio.com
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 96 18:28:28 PDT
Subject: ‘S’ Type for sale.
Hi Guys.
I won’t take up too much time with lengthy descriptions of the cars, but I have
had a change of plans and now would like to sell my 2 X 1965 ‘S’ types to
hopefully a good home.
-
Original jag engine, now has manual box. Rust free and runs. AC, manual
steering. Wire wheels -
Ford 302 had some minor rust, all metal has been replaced.Good interior and
wires power steering.Runs well.
Both have good chrome and are complete. Asking $3500 OBO each or $6000 for both.
Please reply to me directly as I don’t always have chance open every archive.
Cars are located in Livermore CA.
Home number 510 371 6466.
Best regards
Steve.
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 21:40:08 -0500 (EST)
Subject: More Reviews
Nick:
Five more tonight:
Title: Jaguar E-Type
Author: Matthew L. Stone
Publisher: Motorbooks International Osceola, WI, USA, 1995
ISBN: 0 7603 0071 2
Format: Somewhat oversize, Paperback, full color, 128 pages, about 140 photos
An XKE-lover tells the story of the car he loves. This is not the most
comprehensive history, nor will you find any inside information. Instead,
this book is a credible and accurate history of the car and it’s
development. A few first-hand driving impressions are thrown in.
The real value of this book is the photography. Many new color photos are
mixed in with period pictures. Perhaps the most interesting photo in the
book is a full page color photo of the E-Type assembly line taken in 1966!
Summary: a decent history, great photos.
Title: Jaguar E-Type 3.8 & 4.2 6-cylinder;5.3 V12
Author: Denis Jenkinson
Publisher: Osprey Publishing LTD, London 1982
ISBN: 0 85045 437 9
Format: Standard size, hardcover, black and white, 134 pages, 100 photos
Jenkinson as a motor sport journalist in the 50’s and 60’s. He himself drove
a sucession of classic sports cars, and during the 60’s became the
quintisential Jag nut. His first car was a Series I coupe, which he
eventually replaced with a Series II OTS. This little book is a
semi-autobiographical discussion of his experience with these cars. If you
ever wondered what it was like to buy an E, and drive it fresh out of the
dealer’s. Or to drive it on Continental roadways with no speed limits. Or to
take an E-type thru the Alps, this is the book for you. It should be titled
‘two hundred thousand miles in an E-Type.’
One unusual phot sequence shows the custom-made tonneau cover he had made up
for the OTS. I am not aware of any other photos of a tonneau.
Title: The Import Book
Author: Larry Smith
Publisher: Larry Smith Associates, Los Gatos, CA, USA, 1985
ISBN: 0 931741 00 9
Format: Slightly oversize, paperback, 101 pages
The United States has some of the world’s toughest restrictions on
automobile. Importing a car means meeting these strict requirements. For a
while during the 1980’s, there was a substantial premium charged by
automobile companies importing to the states. Inevitably, a ‘grey market’
developed, where people were importing automobiles themselves and modifying
them to comply to US regulations. While the economics has killed the grey
market, some of us are car shopping overseas, and may still be considering
importing.
This book is a how-to book of automobile importing. It enumerates all the
rules and regs, and gives samples of completed forms. I don’t know if it is
still available, or if it has been updated, but if you are considering
importing, you need this book. If I may summarize the book in a sentence:
Importing a car built before safety and emissions regulations is easy,
otherwise, prepare for pain.
Title: Jaguar The Complete Illustrated History
Autor: Philip Porter
Publisher: GT Foulis, Sparkford, near Yeovil, Somerset, England, 1995
ISBN: 0 85429 962 9
Format: Slightly oversize, hardcover, 190 pages, 350 photos
This is Philip Porter’s first book, and a fine first effort it is. A
comprehensive history of Jaguar from Swallow to XJ220. Forword by William
Lyons. One large chapter is devoted to Jaguar’s racing history, which is
treated in some depth. There is also a chapter on styling.
Among the illustrations is a color section which includes period color
photos of a number of SS cars!
If you only have room on the shelf for one Jaguar history, this is it.
Title: Jaguar E-Type Gold Portfolio 1961-1971
Author: RM Clarke
Publisher: Brooklands, SSurrey, Kent, England 1995
Format: Slightly oversize, paperback, 180 pages, 300 b&w photos
This is a collection of contemporary reviews of the E-Type. The fifty+
articles are boringly consistent in praising the car, except for the Moss
box or a comment here and there about brakes. If you check out your favorite
newsstand, the odds are that this month, some magazine, somewhere is
reviewing the E-Type. Now as then, the writer will praise the car, condemn
the transmission, and remark on it’s crumpet catching potential. It’s hard
to find anything new to say, but every writer who drives the car has to say it.
That’s it for tonight!
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
From: “A. Gardner” gardnera@SLUVCA.SLU.EDU
Date: Mon, 09 Dec 1996 21:17:19 -0600 (CST)
Subject: RE: XJ6 Series III Lukewarm Starting.
Jim Isbell wrote:
Snip
My car starts on the first piston to fire, never even a full turn. I
would be very
unhappy if it ever turned over twice without starting.
Jim, I am curious as to whether you have enriched the mixture by adjusting
the sealed screw in the air flow meter (promise I won’t turn you in to the
EPA)? Bill Trimble and I have replaced / tested just about every part of
the ignition / fuel injection / cold start system (Bill even replaced his
AFM I seem to recall) with no improvement.
Tony Gardner
XJ6 Series III 1986
From: KupyKool@aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 22:31:44 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ40 ABS Failure
Eric-
In a message dated 96-12-09 01:15:45 EST, you write:
If you ever learn how to
disconnect the system, could you let me know, that way I can always
reverse
the process to correct my problem.
Sounds like my doctor . . .
ME: Doc, I have a terrible headache all the time.
DOCTOR: Me too. Let me know if you find out what that is.
Anyway, I’ll post to the list with any worthwhile results.
Mike Kupritz
Baltimore, Maryland
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 22:20:27 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: 1 to 3 wire 02 sensor change XJ6 S3 & Virus checking
Has anyone replaced the 1 wire 02 sensor with a 3 wire unit, connecting =
the extra 2 so that the sensor more quickly reaches operating =
temperature? If so, which sensor did you use and was the change due to =
faster closed-system operation worth it? Thanks.
I have done such a thing to all of my injected cars… but I did it for
entirely different reasons. I did it to get the O2 sensor up to temp,
period. I run tri-Y headers on my cars, which puts the tap point for the
O2 sensor (the collector) a fair distance from the engine. It’s enough
distance that, combined with headers not retaining the heat in the exhaust
stream, the sensors would cool off too much at around town cruise speeds.
Any of the Bosch three wire sensors from that era will work fine; BMW, Volvo,
Jag, or universal. The black wire connects to the stock location, the
two white wires go to power and ground. Doesn’t matter which wire goes
where. For power, I tap into the fuel pump relay so that the sensor is
on when the pump is running. This is typical Bosch strategy.
On the SIII, this will not get you into closed loop any quicker. The ECU will not go closed loop until the engine reaches a critical temp. But it will help in making sure the sensor signal during low load closed loop cruising is valid. Jaguar went to a three wire on the 87’s for this reason. Randy K. Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net From: “Ernie Laprairie” lapraire@enterprise.cybersurf.net Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 21:52:46 MST Subject: post cards Maybe these are the post cards. Visit the site and send yourself one. http://www.jaguarcars.com/uk/frames/index.htm Thinking of Realestate? “E” Mail Jayman Realty Now Ernie Laprairie 403-560-8115 collect We have the Systems Visit our HOME page www.jayman.com or “E” mail us - lapraire@cia.com 203 - 9705 Horton Rd. S.W. T2V 2X5 Calgary, Alberta Canada From: postcard@jaguarcars.com Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 23:51:09 -0500 Subject: You have a postcard! There is a postcard waiting for you in the postcard office. You may claim it at the pickup window, which is located at http://www.jaguarcars.com/uk/sections/sgb/getcard.html Your claim ticket is: 850193469.13717 Please have this available when you claim your postcard From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen) Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 06:19:31 +0100 Subject: ADMIN : You have a postcard! [ postcard@jaguarcars.com ] | There is a postcard waiting for you in the postcard office. | You may claim it at the pickup window, which is located at | | http://www.jaguarcars.com/uk/sections/sgb/getcard.html | | Your claim ticket is: 850193469.13717 This might have had a novelty-value the first time, but no more than that. Anyone posting any further postcards to the list will be barred for life. Clear enough? Nick Nick Johannessen // nick@sn.no // http://www.sn.no/home/nick/ From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@deltanet.com Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 21:40:33 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Ignition capacitor Lauren- Makes sense to me! (assuming nothing is broken, of course ). Hunt At 04:34 PM 12/9/96 PST, Lauren E. Pratt wrote:
Micael and Hunt and all.
Just a note on something I learned a long time ago. You can not
use just any capacitor with any coil. The capacitor MUST be
matched to the inductance of the coil. An under valued capacitor
will cause a pit in the negative point contact. Notice the three
negatives. UNDER value, PIT, and NEGATIVE contact. Therefore an
over sized cap will put a pit on the positive contact. A proper
valued cap will not pit either point contact. By observing the
condition of the points you can determine if the cap is too small
or too large.Hope this helps
Cheers Lauren 65 FHC
Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 12/9/96
Time: 4:34:33 PMThis message was sent by Chameleon
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@deltanet.com
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 21:40:31 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: A/C condensers - cleaning
David-
Could these be condensed out dissolved compressor oil and hose components,
perhaps?
Hunt
At 02:08 PM 12/9/96 PST, David J Shield wrote:
Hi - I was cleaning the outside of the E-type's A/C condenser in preparation for straightening the fins and painting the sides (The condenser has only recently been removed from the car, but until then the system had been intact although totally non-functional for probably 10 years.) I wondered how clean is was inside, so after blasting some air through it and getting nothing out, no dust or bugs or anything, I poured in about 1/2 cup of lacquer thinner. Put the plugs back in and sloshed it around, then uncapped the fittings and poured it out. The liquid came out not clear, but the color of a light-ish beer, like Corona. I assume there should be nothing in there, just clean metal, so unless someone tells me otherwise, I'll give it another treatment till it's clear (then I'll send lots of air through). David '70 2+2
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #579
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jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 11 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 580
GB Plate #s
Mk2 head and brake questions
Re: GB Plate #s
British Plate Numbers and Years
Visit to Menlow Park CA - No Jag content (unless we meet up that is)
RE: series 1 xj 6
British Number Plates
Re: XJ-S Headlights - The Plot Thickens
Re: Miata /Lotus what next?/no jag content
Additives
RE: XJ6 Series III Lukewarm Starting.
Re[2]: A/C condensers - cleaning
XJ40 3.6 FOR SALE
XJ-S: Rainy Surprise
E type coupe
XJ-S: Rainy Surprise -Reply
'86 XJS For Sale
Re: Color code (MKII)
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #575
Lack of relevant Jaguar content
Re: XJ-S Leaper
Re: V12 exhaust and Catalyst questions
From: Adam Clark aclark@internal.brann.co.uk
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 96 09:24:00 G
Subject: GB Plate #s
Welcome to the arcane world of UK number plates.
From mid (I think) 1962 to August 1983 all standard plates conform to the
pattern AAA111A, where the final letter corresponds to the year of
registration. In 1983, the inevitable happened - we ran out of
registration letters. After much wracking of brains, the chaps at Vehicle
Licensing (DVLA) came up with the genius idea of reversing the formula.
Thus from August 1983, plates appeared thus - A111AAA. Of course, in
about seven years we shall run out of letters again, but short term
solutions which cause havoc for future generations have always been
standard government practice in the UK. Witness our road management
policy.
I digress. The ‘what letter for what year’ question is equally confusing
to normal human beings outside the padded walls of the Vehicle Licensing
centre. All registration letters cover a twelve month period. So far so
good. But this period starts on 1st August and ends 31st July of the
following year. Therefore, if Bill’s '71 Daimler is a(n old) ‘J’, it was
registered between January and the end of July of that year. 1970 may be
the year of manufacture, hence the '70 registration in the US (I’m
guessing here).
Each registration letter therefore corresponds to a non-calendar year.
The current UK reg. letter (introduced in August) is a ‘P’. “So,” I hear
you chorus, “I follow the alphabet back across the years to arrive at the
UK reg. letter of my car.” Er…no. You see, some letters were left
out. Why? Because they could be confused by short-sighted cops for
numbers or other letters. In the Vehicle Licensing alphabet I, O, Q, U
and Z, do not exist, and you can always identify a DVLA employee by their
limited vocabulary.
I’m not finished yet. All rules must have exceptions. If you build a kit
car in your living room, you get a ‘Q’ reg’ed plate. And if you hand over
$70 grand to a license plate broker, you get ‘XK8’, and no-one knows how
old your car is.
Cheerio
Adam Clark
From: “Alastair Lauener” a.lauener@napier.ac.uk
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 96 09:42:29 gmt
Subject: Mk2 head and brake questions
George Lecht said
the head has an A stamped into it. Somewhere in my reading for
the last month I was under the impression that the MK2 had a B head.
Dumb question. Is this the right head or did the little old
You will find the engine number stamped on the forward most part of the cylinder
head on the top, between the cam-covers, and it should match up the chassis
plate at the rear on the bulkhead.
Alastair Lauener, 64 3.4 S-type
From: Cosmo simond@inflon.informix.com
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 09:27:10 -0100
Subject: Re: GB Plate #s
Just a few more points. (Warning. This thread could run and run…)
Adam Clark wrote:
Welcome to the arcane world of UK number plates.
From mid (I think) 1962 to August 1983 all standard plates conform to the
pattern AAA111A, where the final letter corresponds to the year of
registration.
The first few years, up to D or E I think, ran from Jan-Dec. Pressure
from motor manufacturers (no-one buys a new car after Christmas) moved
it to the summer months.
Also, the ABC letters were broken down into regional areas. The
second and third letters forming a licensing region. So my fathers
Series I XJ6 was KLY 708K - The LY indicating it was registered in
one of the London areas. I have lost my I-SPY book of number plates
so can’t list all of them. Suffice to say that not all combinations
were used and VD was quitely withdrawn.
I’m not finished yet. All rules must have exceptions. If you build a kit
car in your living room, you get a ‘Q’ reg’ed plate.
Only if you’re too skint to pay the car tax.
And if you hand over$70 grand to a license plate broker, you get ‘XK8’, and no-one knows how
old your car is.
One other point is that you are not allowed to make your car appear newer
than it actualy is by buying a new plate.
Cosmo
PS Somehow PEN 15 slipped through their net…
From: ejt@wg.icl.co.uk (Ted Trim)
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 96 10:46:42 GMT
Subject: British Plate Numbers and Years
Bill,
The suffix letter = year system was introduced in 1963, but many cars that year
had the older system, without year info. At introduction the year letter ran
from Jan 1 to Dec 31.
A 63
B 64
C 65
D 66
E Jan 1 to July 31 67
F Aug 1 67 to July 31 68 (letter year now runs from Aug 1 each year)
G 68/69
H 69/70
J 70/71
K 71/72
L 72/73
M 73/74
N 74/75
P 75/76
R 76/77
S 77/78
T 78/79
V 79/80
W 80/81
X 81/82
Y 82/83
Missing letters I,O,Q (used for specials),U,Z
83/84 went to prefix A
…
96/97 is prefix P
Hope this answers your question. The “V5” registration document which is
issued for each car in the UK has the actual date of first registration
after 1975 when the computers were upgraded…
Cheers,
Ted
From: “Martin R. Fooks” Martin.Fooks@internetdesign.com
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 12:00:52 +0100
Subject: Visit to Menlow Park CA - No Jag content (unless we meet up that is)
Hi people,
I have just been informed that I am to fly out from Holland to San =
Francisco tomorrow morning (Wednesday 11th) for 1 week on business in =
Menlow Park. Are there any Jag-Lovers in the area who would be willing =
to meet up for a coffee?
I will be staying at the following hotel and can also still be contacted =
via E-Mail :
Marriott San Francisco Airport
1800 Old Bayshore Highway
Burlingame CA 94010
Tel : 415-692-9100
| Martin Fooks |
| 81’ Nitrous Oxide powered XJS |
| 96’ BMW Touring |
From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 13:49:51 +0100
Subject: RE: series 1 xj 6
OK, but what is your point and why are you shouting?
Gunnar
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar Sovereign 4.2
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | '73 Mercedes 280 (240D)
From: ultrapak[SMTP:ultrapak@sprynet.com]
Sent: 9. desember 1996 17:52
To: Jag Lovers
Subject: series 1 xj 61971 XJ 6 BRGw/BLACK INT. NEW BRAKES, NEW PAINT, ABOUT 70% RESTORED BUT
ALL ORIGINAL AND COMPLETE. NO RUST , RUNS GOOD.MB ULTRAPAK@SPRYNET.COM
From: hardison@HiWAAY.net (Bob Hardison)
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 07:14:00 -0600
Subject: British Number Plates
My 1966 Mark 2 was a D registered car, which makes 1963 the first year for
suffixed plates (an “A” suffix). I took, and registered, my 1956 XK140 in
1980 (I think), and it got a “W” registration. That just about drove my
mates at the East Anglia Jag Driver’s Club crazy…
From: ejt@wg.icl.co.uk (Ted Trim)
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 96 14:47:00 GMT
Subject: Re: XJ-S Headlights - The Plot Thickens
Probably some law. Do other cars in UK have a similar feature? We
High beam …Weird!! Other UK cars, ummmm (scratching head) not many !
It’s certainly not law,
FWIW, my UK 1990 Rover 214 has H4 outers, H1 inners and dim-dip that activates
IF (side-lights AND ignition-on), and there is a short delay as described
by another UK lister previously in this thread. Side/parking/pilot lamps/lights
are 5W R501 bulbs.
I think the law is that you may not drive with side-lights only; dim-dip
is a common (if not universal) feature from late eighties in UK.
Cheers,
Ted
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 10:18:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Miata /Lotus what next?/no jag content
On Dec 9, 2:37pm, Lee Walden wrote:
Subject: Re: Miata /Lotus what next
Thanks for the info on the Capri styling. According to my brother, the
Lotus was designed in Italy by Italdesign too.
You know, that may be true (depends on what is meant by design). In the same
sense that Italdesign acted as a sub contractor and did the engineering and
feasibility work on the Capri, they may have done the same for Lotus. I do know
that Peter Stevens did the actual styling on the Elan, maybe Italdesign acted
as a sub contractor to do the grunt work(apologies to any any surface layout
people) for Lotus. Italdesign did do the first Esprit (Peter Stevens did the
face lift) so Lotus does have ties to Italdesign. Product development can be a
messy business. I do not know the particulars of the Elan feasibility work, but
there is a big difference between doing design engineering and doing styling.
Two groups could take credit(or blame) for what may sound like the same thing.
Mark McChesney
From: dneufeld@sanac.usiu.edu
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 06:27:10 -0800
Subject: Additives
Any thoughts from anyone out there on using additives such as Prolong or
Slick 50 in oil and transmission - Thanks Don
1987 XJ6
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 10:44:50 -0600 (CST)
Subject: RE: XJ6 Series III Lukewarm Starting.
My car starts on the first piston to fire, never even a full turn. I
would be very
unhappy if it ever turned over twice without starting.Jim, I am curious as to whether you have enriched the mixture by adjusting
the sealed screw in the air flow meter (promise I won’t turn you in to the
EPA)? Bill Trimble and I have replaced / tested just about every part of
the ignition / fuel injection / cold start system (Bill even replaced his
AFM I seem to recall) with no improvement.
My 82/85 XJ6 engine has never been fiddled with. It is completely stock in
every way. (thats not just a statement for the EPA, its the truth)
When I bought the car it had 52,000 miles on it and ran perfectly. It now
has almost 120,000 miles on it and it still runs perfectly. I have never
had to adjust anything on the engine. In that 65,000 plus miles (some of it
at 120MPH on a race track) I have replaced the spark plugs, wires,
distributor cap, upper ball joints, all “U” joints, tires, oil, brake
booster, transmission and a water pump. When the car was wrecked several
months ago we saved the engine and put it into a new body and it still runs
perfectly! Never had the head off of it myself, but the PO did when he added
the stakedown kit.
I have a Caddy Seville that had an idle and occasional cruise roughness that
turned out to be an intermitent spark plug. It would idle rough one day and
smooth the next day then sometimes at mid gallop it would develop a
roighness that could best be described as a vibration. I had never heard of
an intermitent spark plug before and this was a “Brand New” plug that I had
just put in as my periodic maintenance. I worked for weeks trying to locate
the problem then took it to the dealer and $85 later it was returned with no
“ocassional” miss and a new spark plug.
JIM I.
“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”
Gen. Emiliano Zapata
1879-1919
From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 96 09:23:00 PST
Subject: Re[2]: A/C condensers - cleaning
Text item:
Makes sense - I just don't want to be removing some protective
coating.
David
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: A/C condensers - cleaning
Author: hdabney@deltanet.com at SMTPGATE
Date: 12/9/96 9:40 PM
David-
Could these be condensed out dissolved compressor oil and hose components,
perhaps?
Hunt
At 02:08 PM 12/9/96 PST, David J Shield wrote:
Hi - I was cleaning the outside of the E-type's A/C condenser in preparation for straightening the fins and painting the sides (The condenser has only recently been removed from the car, but until then the system had been intact although totally non-functional for probably 10 years.) I wondered how clean is was inside, so after blasting some air through it and getting nothing out, no dust or bugs or anything, I poured in about 1/2 cup of lacquer thinner. Put the plugs back in and sloshed it around, then uncapped the fittings and poured it out. The liquid came out not clear, but the color of a light-ish beer, like Corona. I assume there should be nothing in there, just clean metal, so unless someone tells me otherwise, I'll give it another treatment till it's clear (then I'll send lots of air through). David '70 2+2
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Subject: Re: A/C condensers - cleaning
From: Hunt Dabney hdabney@deltanet.com
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From: gjones@blue.weeg.uiowa.edu (Gregory James Jones)
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 12:32:52 -0600
Subject: XJ40 3.6 FOR SALE
My wife and I are moving from Iowa to Missouri (USA) and we need a vehicle
to haul building supplies. Not to say that a Jaguar could not, but rather
should not, be asked to haul lumber. Our car is a 1989 XJ40 3.6. It has
55K, factory Dayton wire wheels and factory phone. It is Tungsten (blue
grey) with blue interior. It is in excellent condition and has all current
dealer maintenance. We are the second owner and asking $9800.
Gregory Jones
University of Iowa Metalsmithing
gjones@blue.weeg.uiowa.edu
89XJ40
57MGA
From: mkenrick@golder.com (Michael Kenrick)
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 10:47:17 -0800
Subject: XJ-S: Rainy Surprise
Torrential winter rain in Seattle really got me this time. The start
of my drive home resembled Niagara Falls as a deluge came through the
dashboard underbelly and onto my feet. This was no A/C condensation,
unable to drain. This was no little windscreen seal leak.
I suspected drainage of air-intake cum wiper-motor bay was the
problem, and that proved to be the case. The two drainage pipes that
run down each side of the engine bay and into the front wheel wells
were both blocked with crud. They have this cunning design where the
rubber bit transitions to a smaller-diameter metal pipe for a short
length. That internal shoulder provides a nice ledge inside the
drain where the blockage develops.
I put it all back together and poof! -- the wiper motor fails (that's
a cool $1,000 including the new grill, cause the old motor is no
longer made). British Auto in West Seattle have reconditioned units
for a paltry $295 or $395 complete with grill.
Michael Kenrick
From: NICKTRAIN@aol.com
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 13:45:38 -0500
Subject: E type coupe
hi guys
looking for a 1965 to 1967 fhc have a 1974 series ll XJ6 and would like to
add a E type
coupe to the stable. Any leads would be appreciated
thanks
From: Steve Draper s_draper@wcsr.com
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 15:02:08 -0500
Subject: XJ-S: Rainy Surprise -Reply
Michael, sorry to hear that. It seems that any water that comes into
contact with a jag can end up on your feet. I’m thinking of setting up a
water wheel hydroelectric turbine under the dash to generate extra
power for the car, working on the same principles as the Hoover dam.
The Titanic didn’t take on as much water as the jag a-c system. When
you fix it, be certain to use genuine u-cuss parts. Oops, Lucas parts.
- –Steve
'88 xj-s
'89 xj40vdp
e-mail at:
s_draper@wcsr.com
From: “Mark D. Stoner” mark@stoner.wsmr.nasa.gov
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 13:08:07 -0700
Subject: '86 XJS For Sale
I have an 86 XJS for sale. Nice car but I can no longer
afford two XJS’s.
E-mail me for more information or I have pictures and info at:
http://www-psl.wsmr.nasa.gov/mark/86jag.html
Car is currently in Southern New Mexico, US.
Mark D. Stoner Physical Sci. Lab. / NMSU
Telemetry Electonics Engineer White Sands Missile Range, New Mexico
Phone: (505) 679-9745 FAX: (505) 679-9753
WWW: http://www-psl.wsmr.nasa.gov E-Mail: mark@wsmr.nasa.gov
From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 15:20:33 -0600
Subject: Re: Color code (MKII)
This is a Mime message, which your current mail reader
may not understand. Parts of the message will appear as
text. To process the remainder, you will need to use a Mime
compatible mail reader. Contact your vendor for details.
-
–IMA.Boundary.768942058
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Description: cc:Mail note partThe Jag paint codes on the Terry’s Jaguar Parts web site
(http://www.terrysjag.com/) give 8311LH as the DuPont lacquer code for
Carmine Red (62-69)MikeC
'74 S3 OTS
'88 XJ-S H&E---------------------------Reply Message --------------------------------
From: martin.jacobsen@login.eunet.no (Martin Jacobsen)
Date: Mon, 9 Dec 1996 22:05:47 -0100
Subject: Color code (MKII)Hello,
I’m finished with the welding on my MKII (61) - just welding in new
sidelamps remains. I have to re-spray the car. I’m quite sure the color is
carmen red. Can anybody tell me the “mixture-code” we have to use getting
the same color?
Thank you.
Martin -
–IMA.Boundary.768942058–
From: jaguar@terra.net.au (Don Heartfield)
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 08:01:06 +1030
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #575
unsubsribe thanks
Don Heartfield, Telephone 018 087 161
From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 16:27:41 -0600
Subject: Lack of relevant Jaguar content
Ladies and Gentlemen:
Can we please return to some semblance of a mailing list devoted to
Jaguar automobiles?
Recently it seems that most of the bandwidth is consumed by virtually
endless exchanges with absolutely zero Jaguar content. First it was
the damned pro and anti-bicycle messages, now it's a debate over Miata
styling and whether it was an MGB or Lotus clone, with side trips into
Capri styling history, tempered with the occasional chain letter and
#@$!%# postcard.
Please:
1. Confine yourselves to material relevant to Jaguar motorcars,
their care, feeding and the enjoyment thereof.
2. Don't quote an entire message to agree with, disagree with or
reply to a single line.
3. Include an appropriate subject line.
4. Unless it is pertinent to the entire discussion, consider
replying only to the sender, not the entire list.
With the current signal to noise ratio, the list has become a sad
shadow of its former self.
MikeC
From: mkenrick@golder.com (Michael Kenrick)
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 14:10:09 -0800
Subject: Re: XJ-S Leaper
I just got my new Leaper for the XJ-S by COD today, and it seems I
posted the wrong price info. Duh! There is a small matter of $125 in
there somewhere. There was no price listed in the Jaguar World
article, and when I asked Bill Tracy how much it was, he said:
"Eight sixty"
And I'm thinking, Uh? I know Jag stuff is expensive, but $860? Yikes!!!
My silence brings the reassuring response "That's eight dollars and
sixty cents" which I accepted without much thought. Of course, Bill
was telling me the COD charge, assuming I already knew the leaping
beast cost $125.
This is one very solid Leaper, and he is a good size - 7.25 in from
fang to tail (that's 196 mm for you metric types). I just hope it
looks right on that bonnet...
Michael Kenrick
1986 XJ-S
From: Jeffrey Gram 101454.2570@CompuServe.COM
Date: 10 Dec 96 17:56:07 EST
Subject: Re: V12 exhaust and Catalyst questions
Hi Chad and any others who may have responded to my questions,
I had some problems with my computer so I could not log onto internet and may
have missed your note in reply to my questions.
Would you (all) be so kind to resend them to me please ?
Regards Jeffrey Gram
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #580
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From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 12 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 581
Re[2]: GB Plate #s
XJ40: Need Door Handle Description
XJ40: brake fluid leak
Santa Download
Re: (1 to 3 wire 02 sensor change XJ6 S3) & Virus checking
More reviews
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #580
Re: Limited slip diffs
timing chain
XJ40 Idle Speed Adjustment
Re: Lack of relevant Jaguar content
Plating renewal
Additives
Re: Cleaning wire wheels
additives
Plating - then answer
Trip across the USA
I need your advice on 91 Sovereign…
Re: Cat Trick #1 Lights on, won’t go off
Re(2): Cat Trick #1 Lights on, won’t go off
XJ-S mirror
Re: XJ40 ABS Failure
Mark X Parts
From: “Richard.Mansell” Richard.Mansell@psemail.ps.net
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 21:58:00 +0000
Subject: Re[2]: GB Plate #s
-
------ =_0_MIME_Boundary_5908.32adec82.im0uv120.eurh021.eur.ps.net
Cosmo wrote:-
Also, the ABC letters were broken down into regional areas. The
second and third letters forming a licensing region. So my fathers
Series I XJ6 was KLY 708K - The LY indicating it was registered in
one of the London areas. I have lost my I-SPY book of number plates
so can’t list all of them. Suffice to say that not all combinations
were used and VD was quitely withdrawn.
I have not kept my I-Spy book either but I have managed to collect
the complete set of “Observers book of Cars” first published in 1955
then published pretty much every year until 1994. The early ones list
the number plates by registration area. If any one has a burning
desire to find out where their car was first registered let me know
the number plate and I will look it up.
Richard
Richard.Mansell@ps.net
- ------ =_0_MIME_Boundary_5908.32adec82.im0uv120.eurh021.eur.ps.net
- ------ =_0_MIME_Boundary_5908.32adec82.im0uv120.eurh021.eur.ps.net–
From: cobac@ix.netcom.com
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 15:21:45 -0800
Subject: XJ40: Need Door Handle Description
Hi all,
I'm posting again about door handles in the 1990 and up XJ40's. I will
try to change my question, and hope someone is kind enough to answer it.
Would someone be kind enough to describe the internal parts of the 1990+
door handles. I am trying to update my 89 to have the nicer style of the
1990+, and may try to buy a rear door handle assy. and see if I can get it
to work in the 89 door.
The rear door handle of my 1989 has the rod connecting to the SIDE of
the door handle, then the rod runs down, and directly into the door latch
assembly. Also the handle holder looks like it has four forks that go over
the rear of the handle, and holds it to the door (attaches with two nuts).
If you know, does the 1990+ have the connecting rod, possibly, in the
CENTER of the door handle now (thus providing a securer door handle, than
the 88-89). And how does the rod run down, does it go directly into the
latch assembly? And finally, what type of new holder is used to hold it to
the door?
Hope someone help me out with a description before I spend the $100+
and buy a new handle, hopefully I can get it to work.
Thanks a lot,
Eric
From: cobac@ix.netcom.com
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 15:26:54 -0800
Subject: XJ40: brake fluid leak
Seems, unfortunately, that I have noticed a seepage from the area of the
master cylinder (1989 XJ40-VDP). It is the part where two bolts hold the
master cylinder assy. onto the housing of the other part of the brake system
(booster?). I tried tightening the lower bolt, not much help, and some of
the paint is being eaten by the fluid, ARRGGG! Is there some type of seal
where the two pieces connect that has failed? Or is, dare I say, the master
cylinder seals shot and I need a new one?
Thanks for any info
From: “Robert J. Richardson” rrichardson@eurekanet.com
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 19:58:06 -0500
Subject: Santa Download
I apologize for not making it clear that the Santa and his XK8 graphic was
a JPEG TIFF file produced on a Macintosh. Some members who requested this
file couldn’t download it. It was suggested that I send it as a GIF file.
I’ll try to do this in a day or so. Thanks for your interest.
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 11 Dec 96 10:26:46
Subject: Re: (1 to 3 wire 02 sensor change XJ6 S3) & Virus checking
The very best step if you suspect a virus infection is to use a good virus
scanner. The most thorough one (but slow) I have found in extensive testing is
AVP (authored by an ex-KGB cryptographer), which is the only one to find all
200-odd caught-in-the-wild viruses in my collection, and will even identify
damaged or tampered viruses. It searches compressed archives, too. Thunderbyte
and F-Prot usually score around 96%, which has to be rated as excellent. By way
of comparison, McAfee tends to wander in under 80%, Norton AV and IBM AV
usually manage 90%. Microsoft AV, which comes with MS-DOS and Windows 3.11, is
a bad joke at less than 60%.
Invircible is a special case; it claims to have a high detection rate but has a
lousy scanner and suffers from the drawback that it only detects a virus
after it becomes active in the system. It’s not much good identifying a bomb
after it has blown up in your face…
The best I have seen for stopping unknown viruses is Thunderbyte; its heuristic
testing identifies a virus by its (attempted) actions and offers you the
opportunity to prevent a suspicious program from running.
If anyone is interested, I may be able to send reprints of my two latest
(although by now dated) anti-virus articles (Windows 3.11 and Windows 95,
respectively). I didn’t want to use up to much bandwidth by sending them to the
whole list.
- -Jan
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 22:10:51 -0500 (EST)
Subject: More reviews
Nick:
Only one for tonight:
Title: Illustrated Jaguar Buyers Guide.
Author: Michael L Cook
Publisher: Motorbooks Int’l, Osceola, Wi, USA, 1996
ISBN: 0 7603 0179 7
Format: Slightly oversize, paper back, 160 pages, about 140 B&W photos
This book is really just another history of Jaguar cars, from the
beginnings to XK8. The emphasis is on collector value, and most of the text
is oriented towards model identification. Production statistics are included
for all cars. The chapters are devoted to various vehicle families: E-Types,
XJS’s, XJ6’s, etc. The chapters are preceded with a ‘investment’ rating, on
a scale from 1 to 5. This is a very subjective rating, and I take exception
to many of the ratings. For example, E-Type 2+2’s are rated 1 or 2,
depending on equipment options. This suggests that they have less collector
value than, say, '61 DeSotos. A rating of 1, in fact, means no collector
value. I will spare XJ6 owners the trauma of revealing the rating on these
cars… Look, you know what the car you are driving means to you, and that’s
all that counts. If you are looking for a guide to what to drive, just join
Jag-lovers, and solicit a few appropriately biased comments. No thank you,
Mr. Cook. Really!
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
From: jaguar@terra.net.au (Don Heartfield)
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 20:41:13 +1030
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #580
I would like to unsubsribe at this time thank you.
Don Heartfield, Telephone 018 087 161
From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 10:47:28 GMT
Subject: Re: Limited slip diffs
In message m0vX9dC-0001IzC@ucas004.vwr-inc.com Kevin.Campbell@vwr-inc.com writes:
Question: How can I tell if I have a limited slip, and if I do does this mean
it isn’t working?I have experienced wheel spin when moving off with one side o
n a loose surface.
If you have a limited-slip diff AND if it is working, go to a supermarket
car park, bring the car to a full stop, put the steering on full lock
either side, then floor the throttle. If it’s limited slip, the clutches
should kick in and you should feel a shudder from the back of the car.
Regards,
Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
From: MichaelHooker triumph1@gramercy.ios.com
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 08:10:22 -0500 (EST)
Subject: timing chain
hello,
i am new to the list and have a question. what is ,or where can i
find the proper procedure to adjust the timing chain tention on my 84 xj6?
is the tool jaguar describes necessary for the job and how difficult is it
to do?. i have an mgb, and an alfa spider, but have little experience with
jags. i fear my chain has too much slack, its kinda noisy.
thanks in advance
Mike Hooker
From: RDIAZ@maila.harris.com (RDIAZ)
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 08:40:43 -0500
Subject: XJ40 Idle Speed Adjustment
Does anyone know where the idle speed adjustment for the 4.0 XJ40
(1990) is? My '85 SIII had a "bypass" valve adjustment screw on the
intake manifold but I can't find it on the XJ40.
Thanks in advance.
Ricardo Diaz
Melbourne, Florida, USA
1990 XJ40 (Idling too slow @ 600RPM).
RDIAZ@HARRIS.COM
<end>
From: “Mark McChesney” mmcchesn@ford.com
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 09:18:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Lack of relevant Jaguar content
On Dec 10, 4:27pm, Mike Cogswell wrote:
Subject: Lack of relevant Jaguar content
Ladies and Gentlemen:Can we please return to some semblance of a mailing list devoted to Jaguar automobiles? Recently it seems that most of the bandwidth is consumed by virtually endless exchanges with absolutely zero Jaguar content. First it was the damned pro and anti-bicycle messages, now it's a debate over Miata styling and whether it was an MGB or Lotus clone, with side trips into Capri styling history, tempered with the occasional chain letter and #@$!%# postcard.
Sorry, you are right. This is not the place for what I was writing about.
Capri styling history bores even me
Mark McChesney
From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 09:13:05 MDT
Subject: Plating renewal
OK all knowing Jag Lovers, does anyone know what kind of plating is
used on bolts, power steering hose ends and other steel parts that
has a sort of bronze tinge ? Here in the US, metric bolts typically
have this anti-corrosion plating that looks more like a simple
dipping to me. The reason that I ask is that I would like to restore
this kind of surface treatment on my XJ12C on components that are
either too expensive or impossible to replace. Does anyone know if
this is a common “dip” treatment (like aluminum alodine) and where to
get it in the US ? Thanks in advance for your help.
Kind Regards,
Jim Cantrell
From: “John P Bednarski” jackb@epix.net
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 11:18:12 -0500
Subject: Additives
I used Slick 50 in a 90 Cadillac. I didn’t notice any improvement. I
often wondered, if they are so good, why don’t the manufacturers recommend
them.
Jack Bednarski
71 E Type 2+2 V12
90 VDP
95 XJS Conv 6.0L
From: TVJohn2@aol.com
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 12:58:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Cleaning wire wheels
Sorry for my assumption that we were talking chrome wires. I do not
recomened the strong stuff for anything other than that. Quicksilver even
makes my lead wheel weights “bleed”. For painted wheels such as I had on my
XK150 I’d use frequent soap and water, allowing brake dust to bake on
(especially here L.A.) is the big problem, once you get them clean
maintaining them is “relatively” easy.
From: jd.mountford@pti-us.com (John Mountford)
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 13:31:22 -0500 (EST)
Subject: additives
Re the question on use of Slick-50, Jack Bednarski’s comment suggesting that
if it were any good the manufacturers would endorse it (or other magic
additives)…conversely if it is as good as claimed maybe the manufacturers
would be concerned about losing their built-in redundancy. But fanciful
thinking aside it would seem that a measure of effectiveness is needed since
I suspect that one could not ‘notice’ the difference…
One could run a fresh oil batch for 3000miles and send it out for analysis
(metallic and chemical deposits can be identified and can fairly accurately
identify wear and its location)…Then throw in Slick-50 for the next 3000
and get the second batch of oil analyzed…One could hope for an indication
of reduced metallic deposits in the second batch…other than this approach
or believing the commercials showing cars running with empty sumps I don’t
have any other ideas off the top of my head…If anyone is interested I have
information on how and where to get the oil analysis done. It costs about
$30 if memory serves…
New member so here’s my stuff
1984 XJ6…just rebuilt transmission and put on new water pump. No other
problems apart from a dickey connection to the ignition amplifier (needs a
wiggle occasionally) 85000miles
Shouldn’t say this but it runs beautifully…(put Slick-50 in once…)
1985 XJS with 100,000 miles recently bought at bargain price…needed
transmission rebuild…replaced distributor, leads, throttle pot, computer
and various odd bits…all else is sound…still a bargain price…(as
yet)…goes like a bat out of hell…love the steering and
handling…maybe autocross next season instead of Beemer 525 although low
end torque is a little soft…
regards to all
From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 13:08:20 MDT
Subject: Plating - then answer
I have been doing some research into this plating question that I
asked earlier. Specifically, what kind of plating on steel fasteners
and brackets is it that is a kind of bronze color. What I found out
is that it is a zinc plating as a base with a yellow chromate
solution to give it the hue. The zinc plating acts as a sacraficial
node on a plated steel - it corrodes instead of the steel. The other
common plating technique for english cars is cadmium plating.
I also found some do-it-yourself kits available in the US. A very
nice english gentleman runs an outfit called Caswell Plating. They
sell kits (around 200$ US) for the zinc/yellow chromate plating that
is ideal for restoring cars. They also sell what they call the “copy
cat” cad plating kit which is not a real cadmium plating process.
Since the arsenic and other chemicals in the process are highly
toxic, they developed a “tweaked” zinc plating system that appears
like cadmium plating and is durable (or so they claim). I ordered
this kit from them and will keep you guys posted on the results.
BTW, I am not affiliated with this company but thought that you all
would be interested like I am since the problem of rusted brackets
and fasteners is an eternal problem that typically requires lots of
dollars to have professional shops do. Their web site is
www.vivanet.com/~caswell and gives interesting info. on their stuff.
Kind Regards,
Jim Cantrell
From: John McDonagh jmcdonagh@bus.wisc.edu
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 15:28:24 -0600
Subject: Trip across the USA
Thanks to all the Jag-lovers that responded to me regarding my forthcoming
-
- starts next week - Trans America trip. I received a lot of helpful
suggestions and recommendations, one of which was to post my proposed route
to the list and ask for phone numbers of those along the way that may be
prepared to help out in an emergency. So here goes -
- starts next week - Trans America trip. I received a lot of helpful
Leaving next Tuesday (if the weather looks good) we head south from
Madison, Wisconsin on I90 to Rockford then I39 to Bloomington. We then
follow old Route 66 where we can to St Louis then pick up some of the
scenic routes following the Mississippi - state highway 3 I think down to
Cairo.
We are then a little bit vague on our route but if time is short we will
head for Little Rock, Arkansas by the most direct route, carry on down I30
before turning off to Shreveport/Bossier City. From there its I20 to Dallas
to stay with friends for a few days then US287 to Amarillo and I40 and US
285 to Santa Fe.
Depending on the weather, we may take the northern route US84,64,160 and
state 64 through Monument Valley and the Grand Canyon before rejoining I40
until the US93 turnoff to Las Vegas. Its then I15 to LA and if we get there
early enough we may head down to San Diego for a few days before arranging
shipping of the car back to New Zealand.
It’s a long way I know, but we’ve allowed a month in total and we can
always change our return air tickets if we have to.
It’s been great here in the USA and if any more Jag-lovers make it to New
Zealand I will certainly return the hospitality that has been extended here.
I will loose this e-mail address at the end of the week and be out of
contact until I get back to NZ, but when I do I will post a note about our
“Trans America” adventures.
Cheers for now
John McDonagh
From: “Donald R. Farr” d.farr@phx.cox.com
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 12:45:33 -0700
Subject: I need your advice on 91 Sovereign…
My 91 Sovereign needs new tires again. I’ve only been getting about
18,000 miles on a set of them, and I’m wondering if anyone has found
an alternative to the Pirelli’s?
I’ve had three responses suggesting changing from the 205/70X15 to
225/60x15 or 225/65x15 but those come with changes to the odometer
and speedometer. Does anyone else make a 205/70x15, or has anyone
here used something else that does not affect the odometer?
On another matter… I just went to Scottsdale Jag here in Arizona and had a replacement battery installed by them…34 months into a 60 month warranty and they charged me $39.75 for “CHARGING CIRCUIT TEST” as labor on top of the $45 replacement charge under the warranty. Does this seem outlandish to anyone but me? Donald R. Farr 91 Sovereign President National Consulting Services 6719 North 58th Place Paradise Valley, AZ 85253 (602) 998-3919 - voice (602) 948-7499 - fax d.farr@phx.cox.com - e-mail http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/dfarr.htm - Homepage http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/7000.htm - Jetta Notebook Computers http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/march10.htm - Wireless products http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/ncs1.htm - National Consulting Services From: WALENK@MAIL.STATE.WI.US Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 16:41:31 -0600 Subject: Re: Cat Trick #1 Lights on, won’t go off *I tried to send the attached message several days ago - what happened? From: WALENK@MAIL.STATE.WI.US Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 16:52:23 -0600 Subject: Re(2): Cat Trick #1 Lights on, won’t go off Author: Kane Walent at PSCPOB03 Date: 12/9/96 10:03 AM Priority: Normal Receipt Requested TO: OAS at PSCGATE Subject: Re: Cat Trick #1:Interior Lights On, won’t go off Message Contents ------------------------------- * Greetings all. I’ve been silently following the site for about a month and think its great. My name is Kane Walent and I finally (after many years) succumbed to jag ownership of a '92 XJ-s coupe, black/tan (magnolia?) 38k miles, a Texas car coming out of lease, purchased at Howard Orloff’s in Chicago. I chose a '92 model hoping to avoid the curse of the sons of Lucas, but alas, I am experiencing my first cat trick. All the interior lights are on, including the red Door Guard Lamps, and stay on without reference the positions of doors, keys, or the passage of time. All interior lights are on, except the Interior Roof Light, which is as dead as a Norweigan Blue in all three of its purported positions. I can think of three contributing factors. First I did have a bulb fault light go on and it seems I just read in the “XJ-S:Headlights” thread that improper connection backfeeds through the bulb failure unit and powers other lights. True? That’s remarkably perverse, even for a Jaguar! Second, the weather here in Wisconsin has hovered 5 degrees above and below freezing all week. Lastly, I let my girlfriend drive the Jag which I suspect has a female personality. Thanks in advance. Kane XJS '92, Caddy Seville '85 Walenk@mail.state.wi.us *I haven’t seen a response to the attached message sent 12/9…? From: armsco@primenet.com (Michael) Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 11:10:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: XJ-S mirror One of the servos in my power mirror switch has gone out. After taking the switch apart it is apparent the the servo is easily replaced …If I could find a source for the servo. Can one of you fellow Jag-Lovers help? I am not really happy with idea of paying over $100 for the entire switch. Michael From: KupyKool@aol.com Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 19:22:01 -0500 Subject: Re: XJ40 ABS Failure Randy- You wrote:
If you are missing a wheel speed sensor, the warning will be ON… not
intermittent. The system will fail it’s startup self-checks.
The two common failures are the main power relay and wheel speed sensors.
When / how often does the warning come on, and once it’s on, does it ever
go back out during that driving session?
I took a few days to observe the system, so I could give you an accurate
response. The ABS Failure warning does indeed come on intermittently. It usual
ly stays on for the rest of the driving session once it comes on, which is
often after several minutes of driving. However, it sometimes goes off while
driving. I have not noticed any correlation with speed, braking, etc. Upon
startup, the warning is usually extinguished almost immediately, only to
return later.
For what it’s worth, I also have an intermittent bulb fail warning, and the
oil pressure sensor seems to be spurious.
Mike Kupritz
Baltimore, Maryland
From: “Lee Walden” lwalden@ebmud.com
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 17:28:28 -0800
Subject: Mark X Parts
Anyone know of a source for the IRS carrier bearing, Pinion Bearing and
seals for a 66 Mark X Saloon? Need US prices too. If you know the actual
Timken Bearing numbers, I can check locally. Don’t have time to rip my IRS
apart to find the numbers. My brother’s needs them for his Mark X, and I
was thinking of buying them for him for Christmas. Thanks in advance. Lee
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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 12 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 582
Book Reviews
Leaky XJS’s
Re: Plating
V-8 unconversion
Re: Limited slip diffs
Temp off the list
clean chrome wires
Greetings Cards from JDHT
XJ6 SIII Coolant loss
timing chain
Re: XJ-S mirror
SII Aircon problem tip
V12 noise
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #577
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 21:02:16 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Book Reviews
Kenny:
Here are some book reviews I did for jag-lovers. They should help you find
your photos. You should think about joining jag-lovers or xke-lovers, if you
haven’t found them already.
Check out:
http://home.sn.no/home/nick/jaguar.html
http://www.azstarnet.com/~gwcohn/
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
Title: Jaguar the Enduring Legend
Autor: Edited by John Phillips
Publisher: Smithmark Publishers, New York, 1991
ISBN: 0 831751274
Format: Extra Oversize, color, 160 pages, 150 photos
One of my favorite coffee table books. This is a history of the Jaguar
marque, from the Austin Swallow to the XJ40. The history, by the author’s
own admission, is lightweight, meant more for entertainment that documentary
value. The real charm of this book are the amazing photographs…detailed,
large format, full color pictures of most Jaguar and SS models. The photos
are largely schoolboy-dream exterior shots, with a few detailed engine bay
shots. If you only own one Jag book, this is probably not it, but it is a
book sure to entertain and please the serious collector.
Title: Jaguar
Author: Paul Skilleter
Publisher: Grange Books, London, 1993
ISBN: 1 85627 24 6
Format: Oversize, color, 70 pages, about 80 photos
Another coffee table book. A brief history of the company, from inception
thru the 1990’s. No surprises in the text. Many fine exterior photos, a few
engine bays…a familiar format. Not recommeded.
Title: Refining the Sports Car: Jaguar’s E-Type
Author: Museum of Modern Art, New York
Publisher: Museum of Modern Art, New York, 1996
ISBN: None
Format: Pamphlet, color, 16 pages, 13 photos
This is the handout from the Museum’s induction of the E-Type into the
permanent collection. It is a loving little biography of everyone’s favorite
car. The few photos are really well chosen, including half-tone styling
studies, prototype cars, and pages from Malcom Sayer’s journal. Also a few
shots of the Museum’s perfect show car. This will be a rarity, so if you can
get to the Museum, get a copy. If you can’t, write them and see if they will
mail you a copy. Well worth having.
Title: Anouncing the Official Precision Replica of the Ultimate Jaguar Classic.
Author: Franklin Mint, Philadelphia
Publisher: Franklin Mint, Philadelphia, 1996
ISBN: None
Format: Flyer, color, 6 pages, 9 photos
This is the advertising flyer for the Franklin Mint’s E-Type Coupe model.
It contains a brief history of the car and technical specifications. The
photos are close ups of the Franklin mint model, which look almost like the
real thing. If you are near one of the Franklin Mint mall stores, you can
get this one for free, and it is a nice to have.
Title: Original Jaguar E-Type
Author: Phillip Porter
ISBN:1 870979 12 5
Publisher: Bay View Boooks LTD Bideford, Devon, England, 1994
Format: Oversize, color, 95 pages, about 110 photos
This attempts to provide detailed photographic documentation for the
restorer. While it has many beautiful and detailed photos, it falls short of
being a comprehensive restoration reference. This is especially
disappointing since the author is perhaps the foremost authority in the
world on this subject. The text concentrates on documenting the ‘correct’
appearance of original E’s of all three and a half vintages. But it leaves
much ambiguity and confusion. For example, in the section on Series 1 front
suspension, the text reads “The dampers were finished in Girling blue.” The
photo of the “original” suspension directly opposite has Koni red dampers.
The photos are beautiful, but IMHO, these cars are all over-restored, and
not reference examples. Information on production changes, manufactured
quantities, and technical specs. A good book to have, but not the first to
put on the shelf.
Title: Jaguar: The Complete Works
Author: Nigel Thoreley
Publisher: Bay View Books, LTD, Bideford, Devon, England, 1996
ISBN: 1 870979 69 9
Format: Slightly oversize, color, 160 pages, About 210 photos
This book is a serious history of Jaguar and SS. It has a chapter devoted
to each of the major models, with details of history, manufacturing, and
specification. Many excellent photos, including some shots of the assembly
line, and a photo of the aftermath of the 1957 fire. Shouldn’t be your only
book, but it works on the coffee table.
Title: Jaguar 6 Cylinder Engine Overhaul
Autor: Jaguar World
Publisher: Kelsey Publishing LTD, Beckenham, Kent, England, 1995
ISBN: 1 873098 32 4
Format: Oversize, soft cover, color, 86 pages, about 250 photos
This is a how-to-do-it book. It is a compendium of Jaguar World serialized
articles on the subject. Step by step we are led thru the removal, strip
down and rebuilding of the XK engine. Operations are photgraphically
documented in excruciating detail. Also covered are the independent rear
suspension unit, and SU carburetors. A must have book, if you plan to do it
yourself.
Title: E-Type Jaguar Restoration
Author: Pracical Classics
Publisher: Kelsey Publishing LTD, Beckenham, Kent, England, 1991
ISBN: 1873098 03 0
Format: Oversize, softcover, color, 106 pages, about 300 photos.
Another do-it-yourself book from Kelsey. This time, an awful E-Type is
restored to near perfection. The book attempts to follow the ground up every
step of the way, but the task is so huge, that many details are missed. For
example, carpets and trim are glossed over, yet an excruciatingly detailed
description is given of how a cracked engine block was repaired. I would bet
that many of us have replaced all or part of an interior, but not one of us
has attempted to weld a block. Still, a must have book, if you are seriously
into restoring it on your own.
Title: Jaguar 4.2 Litre ‘E’ Type Series 2 Operating, Maintenance and Service
Handbook
Author: Jaguar Cars
Publisher: Jaguar Cars LTD Coventry, England (reproduced 1995)
ISBN: none
Format: pamphlet, black and white, 80 pages, about 120 drawings and photos
The handbook that came with the car. All the obvious stuff. The Repro
edition comes with two handy wall charts: a complete electrical schematic,
and a lubrication guide. If you have the car, of course you should have a
copy. Repros are sold thru all the major Jag dealers.
Title: SU Carburetters Tuning Tips & Techniques
Author: G R Wade
Publisher: Brooklands Books, LTD, Cobham, Surrey, England 1994
ISBN: 1 85520 2557
Format: Regular size, softcover, black and white, 190 pages, about 150 line
drawings
Detailed information on SU Carburettors. This includes, history, design,
tuning, rebuilding and trouble shooting. Tables of needle applications and
piston spring specs. The definitive reference book on the subject. How to
select a needle, rebuild your carbs, etc. Bonus: similar information on SU
fuel pumps. If you have an SU, you need this book. Stromberg owners may also
find the general discussion of constant-depression carbs useful.
Title: Jaguar Driver’s Book
Author: James Ruppert
Publisher: Haynes Publications, Inc New York 1990
ISBN: 0 85429 626 3
Format: Standard size, hardcover, black and white, 60 pages, about 200 photos
This is an odd book, written by a British journalist. It is a little bit
of history, a little bit of anecdote, some statistics, and other stuff…
The other stuff includes Jaguar crossword puzzles, riddles, and jokes. A
fair number of pages are devoted to ‘specials’: one off Jags by the factory,
stretch limos, styling exercises by some of the best coachbuilders. Chapters
of Jag stories, how-to-buy, factory photos, and celebrity Jags round out
this unusual book. Summary: summarize the best of Jag-lovers, add some
excellent, one of a kind, black and white photos, and you have this book.
Very diverting.
Excerpt:
“In 1964…recieved an interesting present form his Mexican suppliers.
They were grateful for his orders over the years, and had noticed that he
always showed interest in their Mark 2…”
" …Flight 888 had its usual cargo of fresh fruit, and its unusual cargo
of a very well used Mark 2 Jaguar. But the Dakota aircraft was starting to
have trouble…Of course, the Jaguar was one of the first things out the
cargo door…"
“…1974, a party of scientists…came across a curious sight…in the
middle of a tropical rain forest. An almost perfectly restored Mark 2
Jaguar. It had been placed on a raised platform and was surrounded by fruit
and orchids…”
“…an interpreter discovered that the Jaguar was a focal point of worship.
The real jaguar had always been respected by the Indians, and they
recognized the mascot on the bonnet. And anyway when it had arrived in the
forest, so had a bumper crop of fresh fruit which meant it brought good
luck…”
“…denseness of the trees broke the Jaguar’s fall…Indians were
excellent craftsmen…repairing and panel beating the damaged areas wasn’t a
problem…”
“…The American team left the Jaguar where it was. However, this ad
appeared in a British newspaper recently…”
"Jaguar Mk2 Stored in S.America for 20 years. Ex cond, w/w, fsh
worshipped, offers…"
Title: Jaguar XK-E 1961-1975
Author: Walter Zeichner
Publisher: Schiffer Publishing, West Chester, Pennsylvania, 1990
ISBN: 0-88740-247 x
Note: Also available in German, ISBN 3-922617-42-5, HandelsGmbH, Munchen
Format: Standard size, edge bound, 92 pages, 100 photos. Some color photos.
This is not a book as much as a collection. The text is only a couple of
pages long. The balance of the book consists of reproductions of original
advertising literature, magazine articles, and press photos. Included are
most of the advertising brochures for the E-Type. The original 1961 brochure
is reproduced in full color. A handy book for the E-lover.
Title:Jaguar: The Definitive History of a Great British Car
Author: Andrew Whyte
Publisher: Patrick Stephens Ltd (Haynes), Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset,
England 1994
ISBN: 1 85260 474 3
Format: Standard size, black and white, 290 pages, about 200 photos
This book should be familiar to every Jag lover. Whyte had a long
association with Jaguar, and was on the scene for many of the important
turning points in the company history. This well written book is the story
Jaguar and the people behind the company, told as only an insider can tell
it. Especially detailed are the sections describing the origins and early
years of SS production…a wonderful book, worth a place on your bookshelf.
The book includes two forwards by William Lyons, and one by Paul Skilleter.
Many unique black and white photos, especially of prewar Jags, and factory
shots.
Title: The Jaguar E-Type, A Collectors Guide
Author: Paul Skilleter
Publisher: Paul Skilleter and Motor Racing Publicactions, Ltd, Croydon,
England 1986
ISBN: 0 947981 15 2
Format: Standard size, edge bound, 128 pages, about 150 B&W photos
A little history of the E-Type, including origins, development, and
racing history. Tips on buying and maintenance. Specifications. Photos are
excellent, including construction details, engine bays, and racing scenes.
Not the best or most complete book on the subject, but certainly adequate
and accurate.
Title: Jaguar E-Type
Author: Matthew L. Stone
Publisher: Motorbooks International Osceola, WI, USA, 1995
ISBN: 0 7603 0071 2
Format: Somewhat oversize, Paperback, full color, 128 pages, about 140 photos
An XKE-lover tells the story of the car he loves. This is not the most
comprehensive history, nor will you find any inside information. Instead,
this book is a credible and accurate history of the car and it’s
development. A few first-hand driving impressions are thrown in.
The real value of this book is the photography. Many new color photos are
mixed in with period pictures. Perhaps the most interesting photo in the
book is a full page color photo of the E-Type assembly line taken in 1966!
Summary: a decent history, great photos.
Title: Jaguar E-Type 3.8 & 4.2 6-cylinder;5.3 V12
Author: Denis Jenkinson
Publisher: Osprey Publishing LTD, London 1982
ISBN: 0 85045 437 9
Format: Standard size, hardcover, black and white, 134 pages, 100 photos
Jenkinson as a motor sport journalist in the 50’s and 60’s. He himself drove
a sucession of classic sports cars, and during the 60’s became the
quintisential Jag nut. His first car was a Series I coupe, which he
eventually replaced with a Series II OTS. This little book is a
semi-autobiographical discussion of his experience with these cars. If you
ever wondered what it was like to buy an E, and drive it fresh out of the
dealer’s. Or to drive it on Continental roadways with no speed limits. Or to
take an E-type thru the Alps, this is the book for you. It should be titled
‘two hundred thousand miles in an E-Type.’
One unusual phot sequence shows the custom-made tonneau cover he had made up
for the OTS. I am not aware of any other photos of a tonneau.
Title: The Import Book
Author: Larry Smith
Publisher: Larry Smith Associates, Los Gatos, CA, USA, 1985
ISBN: 0 931741 00 9
Format: Slightly oversize, paperback, 101 pages
The United States has some of the world’s toughest restrictions on
automobile. Importing a car means meeting these strict requirements. For a
while during the 1980’s, there was a substantial premium charged by
automobile companies importing to the states. Inevitably, a ‘grey market’
developed, where people were importing automobiles themselves and modifying
them to comply to US regulations. While the economics has killed the grey
market, some of us are car shopping overseas, and may still be considering
importing.
This book is a how-to book of automobile importing. It enumerates all the
rules and regs, and gives samples of completed forms. I don’t know if it is
still available, or if it has been updated, but if you are considering
importing, you need this book. If I may summarize the book in a sentence:
Importing a car built before safety and emissions regulations is easy,
otherwise, prepare for pain.
Title: Jaguar The Complete Illustrated History
Autor: Philip Porter
Publisher: GT Foulis, Sparkford, near Yeovil, Somerset, England, 1995
ISBN: 0 85429 962 9
Format: Slightly oversize, hardcover, 190 pages, 350 photos
This is Philip Porter’s first book, and a fine first effort it is. A
comprehensive history of Jaguar from Swallow to XJ220. Forword by William
Lyons. One large chapter is devoted to Jaguar’s racing history, which is
treated in some depth. There is also a chapter on styling.
Among the illustrations is a color section which includes period color
photos of a number of SS cars!
If you only have room on the shelf for one Jaguar history, this is it.
Title: Jaguar E-Type Gold Portfolio 1961-1971
Author: RM Clarke
Publisher: Brooklands, SSurrey, Kent, England 1995
Format: Slightly oversize, paperback, 180 pages, 300 b&w photos
This is a collection of contemporary reviews of the E-Type. The fifty+
articles are boringly consistent in praising the car, except for the Moss
box or a comment here and there about brakes. If you check out your favorite
newsstand, the odds are that this month, some magazine, somewhere is
reviewing the E-Type. Now as then, the writer will praise the car, condemn
the transmission, and remark on it’s crumpet catching potential. It’s hard
to find anything new to say, but every writer who drives the car has to say it.
Title: Illustrated Jaguar Buyers Guide.
Author: Michael L Cook
Publisher: Motorbooks Int’l, Osceola, Wi, USA, 1996
ISBN: 0 7603 0179 7
Format: Slightly oversize, paper back, 160 pages, about 140 B&W photos
This book is really just another history of Jaguar cars, from the
beginnings to XK8. The emphasis is on collector value, and most of the text
is oriented towards model identification. Production statistics are included
for all cars. The chapters are devoted to various vehicle families: E-Types,
XJS’s, XJ6’s, etc. The chapters are preceded with a ‘investment’ rating, on
a scale from 1 to 5. This is a very subjective rating, and I take exception
to many of the ratings. For example, E-Type 2+2’s are rated 1 or 2,
depending on equipment options. This suggests that they have less collector
value than, say, '61 DeSotos. A rating of 1, in fact, means no collector
value. I will spare XJ6 owners the trauma of revealing the rating on these
cars… Look, you know what the car you are driving means to you, and that’s
all that counts. If you are looking for a guide to what to drive, just join
Jag-lovers, and solicit a few appropriately biased comments. No thank you,
Mr. Cook. Really!
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 21:03:45 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Leaky XJS’s
This month’s issue of Jaguar Enthusiast has a brief article on curing the
wet footwell syndrome in XJS’s. Not owning one, I haven’t been following the
thread, but if anyone is still looking for a cure, I would be happy to
reproduce the article…
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
From: Kroppe kroppe@mich.com
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 22:00:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Plating
“Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu wrote:
OK all knowing Jag Lovers, does anyone know what kind of plating is
used on bolts, power steering hose ends and other steel parts that
has a sort of bronze tinge ?
In the industry we call it zinc dichromate. I do not know of any
suppliers who sell the stuff or will plate bolts for you. I have seen
“plating” kits in The Eastwood Company’s catalog, but have not seen the
results.
There is also “cad plate” paint. It’s really three spray cans of paint
that you apply in various spatter coats to simulate the
copper/silver/gold rainbow of cad plating. Pretty shadetree technique,
tho…
B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6
From: jello@dns.ida.net (Phil Bates)
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 20:20:03 -0700
Subject: V-8 unconversion
Today I located a fairly sound (formerly) series 2 XJ12L. I looked around
at it, and found an incomplete V-8 conversion (incomplete conversion,
complete car), and that the plate says last registered in 93. I am thinking
of trying to buy the car, have the V-8 ripped out and have a V-12 HE engine
fitted. Anyone ever heard of this before?? Does the typical V-8 conversion
require any irreversible changes or cutting and welding that would be hard
to undo??
Thanks,
Phil Bates
58 MGA
67 MGB
75 Jaguar XJ12C
52 MG TD replicar (VW)
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 12 Dec 96 13:31:08
Subject: Re: Limited slip diffs
Kevin Campbell : When on the hoist if I spin one driven wheel the
opposite wheel rotates in the SAME direction
Most diffs will do this if the pinion (input shaft) is free to turn. If you put
the transmission in PARK, the opposite wheel will counter-rotate.
: If one wheel is rotated by hand the other wheel can still quite easily
be held
still.
This is no limited slip diff. If you have one, and it’s in working order, it
will be extremely hard to turn one rear wheel if both are off the ground and
the transmission is in PARK.
- -Jan
From: Bert.Willing@lc.dmx.epfl.ch (Bert Willing)
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 09:00:16 +0100
Subject: Temp off the list
Hi everybody,
thanks for all the people who helped me so far with my cat - I really enjoy this list. As I’ll be off for vacations down under for a couple of weeks, I unsubscribed for this time - I don’t want my mailbox explode …
I’ll be right back in January.
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to everybody
Bert
Bert Willing '84 XJ6 4.2L
Laboratoire de Ceramique - Departement des Materiaux
Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (EPFL), MX-Ecublens, CH-1015 Lausanne
Fone : (+41 21) 693 29 44
Phax : 58 10
email: Bert.Willing@lc.dmx.epfl.ch
- ------------------------- Eudora 2.1.1 ------------------------------
From: Licensed jshuck25@mailhost.cinet.co.cn
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 10:13:53 ±800
Subject: clean chrome wires
here’s a trick. once your get the wires clean…this sometimes means =
taking off the car (greased those splines lately) and really cleaning. =
Try spraying a little WD-40 on the wires…not on the brake rotor dummy. =
you have to clean the wires again anyway, but this makes it a lot =
easier. john shuck…beijing
From: “Alastair Lauener” a.lauener@napier.ac.uk
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 96 09:22:35 gmt
Subject: Greetings Cards from JDHT
The Jaguar Daimler Heritage Trust have a collection of 6 greetings cards
available, featuring the work of Artist Roy Nockholds, who was featured in Nov/
Dec 96 Jaguar World.
The Pack of 6 are as follows,
1951 C-Type at Le Mans
1956 D-Type at Le Mans
1956 MkVII - The Monte Carlo Rally
1958 XK 150
1960 MkII
1961 E-Type
Full details and pictures at Nick’s page,
http://www.jagweb.com/jdht/jdhtcards.html
Price 5.00 UK pounds,
postage �0.50p UK, �1.00 Europe, �2.00 Rest Of World
For further information about the above items, or the
Jaguar Daimler Heritage Trust, contact,
Ann Harris, Archivist, +44(0)1203 202141
Fax +44(0)1203 405581
There is also much more information about the Jaguar Daimler Heritage Trust at
these pages.
Alastair Lauener
64 3.4 S-Type
From: John Littler jcl0004@ibm.net
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 20:51:17 +1100
Subject: XJ6 SIII Coolant loss
Hi all
I’ve got a rapid coolant loss - appeared suddenly- all OK to yesterday -
low colant light came on, put about a litre in, today it needed over 2.
I can’t see where it’s coming from - all looks OK from above and
underneath all I can see is the drip appearing at 2 points the bottom of
the engine and off the fan belt pulley (right term ?) just to the right
off the alternator ( as viewed from drivers seat).
Can anyone give me any clues as what’s likely to go that quickly, and
any tips as to disassembly so I can see whats going on - can I pull the
shroud off without removing the bonnet ?
Thanks in advance
John
From: “Alastair Lauener” a.lauener@napier.ac.uk
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 96 09:45:04 gmt
Subject: timing chain
Mike Hooker asks
can i find the proper procedure to adjust the timing chain tention
on my 84 xj6? is the tool jaguar describes necessary
Any of the manuals have the method, but
Yes, it is possible without the tool, but the tool make it so easy. It is
available from the Jaguar Enthusiasts Club for about 7 UK pounds I think.
The engine is best on TDC, but not necessary. Remove the circular cover at the
front of the cylinder head, loosen (not remove the nut), push in the locking
peg, and rotate the wheel. The tool pushes in the peg, and makes the rotation
very easy. The wheel should rotate anti-clockwise to tighten, unless your car
is incorrectly set up. Feel the tension of the chain on the left hand run where
the chain is loosest. Test tension in a few engine positions. The tension of
the timing chain can slightly affect the cam-timing, but usually negligible.
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 11:43:19 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: XJ-S mirror
One of the servos in my power mirror switch has gone out. After taking the
switch apart it is apparent the the servo is easily replaced …If I could
find a source for the servo.Can one of you fellow Jag-Lovers help? I am not really happy with idea of
paying over $100 for the entire switch.
There is no servo in your mirror switch, it’s just a switch. Please get
a copy of Kirby’s book, he has a good description how to replace the switch
-
- Matthias
Michael
From: Peter Brown pbro@onaustralia.com.au
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 23:09:53 +1100
Subject: SII Aircon problem tip
Finally I have a tip for jag lovers!
I put the beast in for air conditioning repair (new compressor, R134 -
740AUD) and the gentleman who put axle grease through my interior told
me the airon amplifier was wacky. Blower operation was intermittent.
Out with the Haynes manual and the voltmeter.
Several hours later it became apparent that whenever the blower motor
stopped, the radio lost its memory.
Shortly after this I lost my temper, then my mind.
The problem was …wait for it… a dirty fuse!
Try finding that in Haynes or the Repair Operation Manual!
Hope this saves someone some grief one day.
Peter
Spayed SII Daimler double six VDP
PS I have not polished, nor have I replaced the fuse. I just nudge it.
It’s a pride thing.
From: mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR)
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 13:29:32 +0100 (MET)
Subject: V12 noise
When I fire up my V12 after it stood for some hours, it takes
a few seconds before the oil idiot light comes off and the
pressure dial goes up. Just before this happens, there is
a slight noise, hard to describe, I guess it’s the oil making
it all the way up to the top. My engine always was like this
and I have no problem with that, I just wonder if this is normal
Thanks
-
- matthias
From: “Stein Hovind” steinh@kirkeparken.vgs.no
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 13:55:47 CET
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #577
Are there anyone who can tell me if the DUNLOP front brake
calipers on my -66 S-type are the same as the ones found in the MKII.
Dimesions on the friction pads are 51.59 x 50.8 mm. It’s hard to
believe that these calipers are unique for the S-type.
I would love to get hold of a couple of brake pad retainers, since
two of mine are broken. Any suggestions?
Thanks for your help.
Regards
Stein Hovind
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #582
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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 13 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 583
Jaguars on the History Channel
Re: V-8 unconversion
re: your fluid leak at booster/master cylinder
Cat Trick #1
RE: Mark X Parts
Re: SII Aircon problem tip
66 S-type brakes
xj-s distributor overhaul
EXHAUST
Re: Leaky XJS’s
Repost
Re: Re(2): Cat Trick #1 Lights on, won’t
Re: xj-s distributor overhaul
Re: EXHAUST RESONATOR
How old are your Jaguar?
[Fwd: Re: XJ6 SIII Coolant loss]
Re: XJ-S mirror
[none]
Re: your fluid leak at booster/master cylinder
1987 XJ6 Series III Sovereign production numbers.
Re: Upper Cylinder Lubrication
Re: 1987 XJ6 Series III Sovereign production numbers.
V12 evolution
From: James_H._Legge@hud.gov
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 96 08:24:39 EST
Subject: Jaguars on the History Channel
Fellow Jaggers,
Hope this isn't too late, but tonight at 10:00 est there
will be a show on the History Channel (US) about Jaguar cars
from the beginnings of the Swallowtail Sidecar Co. on up to
recent times. It's an hour long.
Jim Legge
'85 SIII XJ6
From: Cliff Sadler ata@netsrq.com
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 09:10:31 -0500
Subject: Re: V-8 unconversion
Phil Bates wrote:
Today I located a fairly sound (formerly) series 2 XJ12L. I looked around
at it, and found an incomplete V-8 conversion (incomplete conversion,
complete car), and that the plate says last registered in 93. I am thinking
of trying to buy the car, have the V-8 ripped out and have a V-12 HE engine
fitted. Anyone ever heard of this before?? Does the typical V-8 conversion
require any irreversible changes or cutting and welding that would be hard
to undo??Thanks,
Phil Bates
58 MGA
67 MGB
75 Jaguar XJ12C
52 MG TD replicar (VW)
The only cutting for a V8 conversion that I am aware of are:
potentially around the motor mounts, depending on what tactic the PO
used to mount the engine. (I used universal mounts and did not have to
cut, or weld)
the drive shaft (propeller) was probably cut/replaced, depending on what
the PO did about the transmission. (I put a 700/R4 in mine, and had a
new driveshaft made)
the PO may have removed some heat shields if he/she didn’t know what
they were.
Maybe some welding around the radiator/condenser area, depending on
whether they kept, or replaced the existing radiator.
Exhaust piping is probably different from the original. Check that.
You might want to get Mike Knell’s book and read it backwards… 
From: nbutler@brill.acomp.usf.edu
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 09:39:41 -0500
Subject: re: your fluid leak at booster/master cylinder
Sorry to give you the bad news/good news, but yes, the leak is coming
from the mastercylinder and NO amount of tightening the mounting bolts
will stop the leak. You will probably notice your rear brakes becoming
less effective VERY shortly, and it is a dangerous situation to ignore.
Plus, the damage the leak can do to from brake fluid being sucked into
the booster can lead to other major complications.
I’ve rebuilt over thirty of these cylinders, always used the rebuild kit
from NAPA auto parts in the US, and I have never had a failure. The
rebuild kit is about $20.00 US, and the only special tool you’ll need is
a very small cylinder hone and about 2 hours start to finish. I’ve even
used 800 grit emory paper wrapped around a pencil when the hone wasn’t
available. Do it now!! Jerry
From: nbutler@brill.acomp.usf.edu
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 10:04:22 -0500
Subject: Cat Trick #1
In trying to eliminate a similar problem on a buddy’s 91 XJS, we found
the problem to be shorted wires running to the interior lamp ( voltage
test with battery connected showed 0 volts at lamp, continuity test
with battery disconnected between lamp and harness point on interior
lamp relay positive ). Check for corrosion at the light housing,
(humidity problem if car was left out in a recent Texas thunderstorm?)
and check for similar corrosion at the door actuated switches.
Jerry King
79 XJ12 (soon to be XJChevy V8, anyone in Florida want the motor?)
83 XJ6
From: “White, Dick COLASC” white@msgate.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 09:46:00 -0500
Subject: RE: Mark X Parts
Lee,
Bearings and seals are available from British Auto/USA (800-452-4787)
and possibly SICP (800-556-7496).
Part numbers and prices for Brit Auto:
3843 pinion outer bearing $22
3844 pinion inner bearing $27
3840 pinion seal $9
3845 carrier bearing (2 req.) $27 ea.
8495 output shaft bearing (4 req) $31 ea.
8950 output shaft o-ring (2 req) $5
8436/A output shaft oil seal (2 req) $25
I would guess that SICP would be cheaper if they have them. I recently
replaced the output shaft seals in my S-type (same as Mark X) and found
them much cheaper locally. I think I paid $7 each as compared to $25.
Maybe you could get him a gift certificate to your local bearing supply
company.
Regards,
Dick
'64 3.8 S-Type (…on the road again)
'58 XK150 FHC (hope to drive someday)
From: “Lee Walden” lwalden@ebmud.com
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 17:28:28 -0800
Subject: Mark X PartsAnyone know of a source for the IRS carrier bearing, Pinion Bearing and
seals for a 66 Mark X Saloon? Need US prices too. If you know the actual
Timken Bearing numbers, I can check locally. Don’t have time to rip my IRS
apart to find the numbers. My brother’s needs them for his Mark X, and I
was thinking of buying them for him for Christmas. Thanks in advance. Lee
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #581
From: mike@ascend.com
Date: Wed, 11 Dec 1996 09:36:46 -0800
Subject: Re: SII Aircon problem tip
Ya know Peter,
Your tip is more valuable than maybe you realize. 20+ years ago
when I was twistin’ wrenches for a Jag dealership in So. Florida, I repeated
came across an instruction in the Jag and RR owners manual to “refit the
connection” as the first step in an electrical diagnostic procedure. I
recall where I think it was suggested to find “a technician with a small
hand” (and no metallic jewelry) to refit connections under the dash.
This “refitting of the connection” obviously improves the conductive
quality; be it a fuse, spade connector, or socketed jack, by scraping
through the oxidation/oil film/or whatever that has caused us to remember
Ohm’s Law (an increase in resistance=decrease in voltage+increase in
amperage, etc). I think that many of us tend to look for Zebras when we
hear hoofbeats; we fail to check for the obvious, horses (or 'roos!). Those
of us who reside in anything near a coastal environment have the inevitable
complication of that ever-corrosive-salt added to the natural tendency for
things to oxidize.
As a digital-communications engineer and I cannot tell you how many
times in the last 20+ years I have “refit the connection” on everything from
giant mainframe computers to the tiny electronics in my cell phone to remedy
a dead or intermittant device.
Good tip; thank you!!
//mike
'89 XJS
''71 XKE 2+2
''71 XKE roadster
At 11:09 PM 12/12/96 +1100, Peter Brown wrote:
Finally I have a tip for jag lovers!
I put the beast in for air conditioning repair (new compressor, R134 -
740AUD) and the gentleman who put axle grease through my interior told
me the airon amplifier was wacky. Blower operation was intermittent.
Out with the Haynes manual and the voltmeter.
Several hours later it became apparent that whenever the blower motor
stopped, the radio lost its memory.
Shortly after this I lost my temper, then my mind.
The problem was …wait for it… a dirty fuse!
Try finding that in Haynes or the Repair Operation Manual!
Hope this saves someone some grief one day.
Peter
Spayed SII Daimler double six VDPPS I have not polished, nor have I replaced the fuse. I just nudge it.
It’s a pride thing.
From: “White, Dick COLASC” white@msgate.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 12:42:00 -0500
Subject: 66 S-type brakes
Stein,
I regret to say but they are unique. This is one portion of the car for
which I have had difficulty getting parts. I do have one catalog which
lists the same part number for the rear ‘piston and cylinder assy’ (this
is the removable cylinder not the caliper housing) for the S-type and
the 4.2 version Mark X/420G.
Regards,
Dick White
'64 3.8 S-type
'58 XK150 FHC
From: “Stein Hovind” steinh@kirkeparken.vgs.no
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 13:55:47 CET
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #577Are there anyone who can tell me if the DUNLOP front brake
calipers on my -66 S-type are the same as the ones found in the MKII.
Dimesions on the friction pads are 51.59 x 50.8 mm. It’s hard to
believe that these calipers are unique for the S-type.
I would love to get hold of a couple of brake pad retainers, since
two of mine are broken. Any suggestions?
Thanks for your help.
Regards
Stein Hovind
From: Steve Draper s_draper@wcsr.com
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 13:13:46 -0500
Subject: xj-s distributor overhaul
I’m down to getting the rotor carrier shaft out. There was no felt or
plastic retaining device about the distributor shaft. The carrier shaft s
stuck, so I left it to soak in wd-40. Is there any problem with just
attaching a set of pliers and pulling vertically until the thing comes loose?
Does anyone have any tips on getting the carrier shaft unstuck? I don’t
want to bend the distributor shaft, but I sure would like to get the xj-s
back on the road. Thanks.
- –Steve
'88 xj-s
'89 xj40vdp
e-mail at:
s_draper@wcsr.com
From: ultrapak ultrapak@sprynet.com
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 10:27:30 -0800
Subject: EXHAUST
Can anybody tell me what the difference is between a muffler and a
resinator is?
Is there a chip kit available to increase performance of my 1987 XJ6.
Mike Bittner
ultrapak@sprynet.com
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 14:05:46 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Leaky XJS’s
There has been a fair amount of interest in the article about curing the
wet footwell problem. I will scan it in and should have it in the E-Mail in
the next couple of days.
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 14:05:44 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Repost
Sorry for reposting those reviews: they were destined for another address
Mike
From: John Goodman 101547.1141@CompuServe.COM
Date: 12 Dec 96 14:34:03 EST
Subject: Re: Re(2): Cat Trick #1 Lights on, won’t
Check all door pin switches, one wire may have come off and is grounding
out. Or the faulty roof light may be shorting out, keeping the other
lights on which are on the same circuit.
I just read in the “XJ-S:Headlights”
thread that improper connection backfeeds through the bulb failure
unit and powers other lights. True? <<
Not unless you have disconnected the bulb failure unit and inadvertently
re connected it up wrong.
John Goodman
'89 XJR-S 6.0L
From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 15:21:50 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: xj-s distributor overhaul
It sounds similar to mine (1987). There was no felt and the plastic retainer
was there, but one never would have known it from looking at the assembly.
The retainer tends to get very brittle, and mine seemed like pieces of it
had lodged between the shaft and the carrier. It is not clear whether you
have the distributor out of the car yet. Since you describe pulling
vertically, it sounds as if it is in the engine yet. My first suggestion is
to remove the distributor. Try to get whatever is left of the retainer
(if anything) out with a small pick. Then hold the lower shaft and try to
gently turn the rotor carrier back and forth to loosen it. Not too far
because there is a complex little plastic bushing device under the carrier
that you do not want to break. It too will be brittle. As far as I was
able to determine, this piece is not available anymore, although a reasonable
substitute can be made out of delrin or teflon if you’ve got access to a lathe.
You will probably find that a hardened dark brown goo is what was holding the
shaft and carrier together.
I’m down to getting the rotor carrier shaft out. There was no felt or
plastic retaining device about the distributor shaft. The carrier shaft s
stuck, so I left it to soak in wd-40. Is there any problem with just
attaching a set of pliers and pulling vertically until the thing comes loose?
From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 13:37:27 MDT
Subject: Re: EXHAUST RESONATOR
Can anybody tell me what the difference is between a muffler and a
resinator is?
There is probobly a more appropriate answer with higher technical
depth and a deeper metaphor for life but I would simply answer that
you can look through a resonator but you can’t through a
conventional muffler. A muffler is a multi path sound reduction
device where a resonator is a single path device (like a glass
pack). They both seems to do varying degrees of the same job -
reduce the decibel level of the exhaust. Bottom line, you can look
through a resonator but a muffler will have turns in its path. Thus
one would expect the muffler to be more restrictive to the exhaust
but more effective at reducing db’s.
Kind Regards,
Jim Cantrell
From: martin.jacobsen@login.eunet.no (Martin Jacobsen)
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 01:05:14 -0100
Subject: How old are your Jaguar?
I’m in negosiasion with an american.He want to sell me a XK140 (1955) A
problem /to me/ is that his car was imported from UK to US in 1985. Because
of the norwegian purchase-taxes I have to enclosure an official certificate
that the car really is a 1955 model. It isn’t sufficient to show the owners
original Titles, because of the import in 1985. The norwegian Customs only
accept a certificate, written on behalf of the Jaguar manufacturer.
Any ideas how to get an “official” declaration? - May be J&D Heritage
trust? Is J&DHT a part of the Jaguar company?
Regards
Martin
From: John Littler jcl0004@ibm.net
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 10:21:22 +1000
Subject: [Fwd: Re: XJ6 SIII Coolant loss]
Thanks Bill
Water pump is dead right - it died this morning - water is now
coming
out of the pump at a rapid rate. Makes the diagnosis easier but
I
don’t like the diagnosis 
I was hoping for a hose I couldn’t
see.
Thanks for the tip on pulleys attached
John
William F Trimble wrote:
from your
description of the problem, it sure sounds like it’s the water
pump. I
replaced a bad one on my car (Series III, 1985, 96,000 miles)
back
in
September. Mine was dripping/spraying coolant all over the
front
of the
engine and leaving big puddles on the floor of the carport.
The replacement is fairly straightforward, if
time-comsuming. You
do not have to remove the hood (bonnet) to do the job. You
might
see if
you can get a new/rebuilt unit with the pulleys attached. It
saves
a
trip to the machine shop to have the old pulleys removed and
reinstalled
on the new/rebuilt pump.
I got my pump from Special Interest Car Parts.Bill Trimble
Auburn, Alabama
From: “Glenn A. Waterfield” gwaterfi@eecs.ukans.edu
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 17:19:02 -0600
Subject: Re: XJ-S mirror
At 11:43 AM 12/12/96 +0100, you wrote:
One of the servos in my power mirror switch has gone out. After taking the
switch apart it is apparent the the servo is easily replaced …If I could
find a source for the servo.Can one of you fellow Jag-Lovers help? I am not really happy with idea of
paying over $100 for the entire switch.There is no servo in your mirror switch, it’s just a switch. Please get
a copy of Kirby’s book, he has a good description how to replace the switch
I was able to very carefully remove the pins holding the body of the switch
together and strip down the pieces and clean the corrosion off them. To
re-assemble the switch I did not want to try to reuse the metal pins that
originaly held it together since I will probably have to clean them again,
so I found a tap just barely larger than the pin hole, a 4-40 I think, and
carfully tapped the hole and put in three 4-40 nylon machine screws. If you
try this I would recommend a clear work area with no carpet to drop the
unbelievably tiny bits and pieces into. =8-O
Glenn Waterfield
'81 Alfa Romeo GTV6
'84 Jaguar XJ-S H.E.
- Matthias
Michael
From: jaguar@clynx.com
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 18:32:50 -0500
Subject: [none]
Nick: Has the net been down? I have not rec any mail today 12/12/96.
I know that the net I am on has had some probs, but that was yesterday.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798
3044
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 19:10:44 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: your fluid leak at booster/master cylinder
Sorry to give you the bad news/good news, but yes, the leak is coming
from the mastercylinder and NO amount of tightening the mounting bolts
will stop the leak. You will probably notice your rear brakes becoming
less effective VERY shortly, and it is a dangerous situation to ignore.
Plus, the damage the leak can do to from brake fluid being sucked into
the booster can lead to other major complications.I’ve rebuilt over thirty of these cylinders, always used the rebuild kit
from NAPA auto parts in the US, and I have never had a failure. The
rebuild kit is about $20.00 US, and the only special tool you’ll need is
a very small cylinder hone and about 2 hours start to finish. I’ve even
used 800 grit emory paper wrapped around a pencil when the hone wasn’t
available. Do it now!! Jerry
Good information for owners of a Chevy. But we’re talking XJ40 here.
Fluid leaks around the master are not necessarily a failed piston seal.
The rear piston, the only one that could leak externally, drives the FRONT
brakes.
Leaking brake fluid can not be sucked into the booster. XJ40’s do not use
a vacuum booster.
I’ve seen less than 10 master failures on these cars in the last eight
years. Yet you’ve done 30?
Eric, check under the rubber seals where the reservoir attaches to the
side of the master. this is THE common leak point. The official fix is
a “reserevoir kit”. Believe it or not, this is cheaper than the Jag
master cylinder kit… which includes new pistons. If you can find an
aftermarket kit that includes the reservoir seals, that would be the way
to go.
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
From: Diana Crick diana_crick@mindlink.bc.ca
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 16:40:13 -0800
Subject: 1987 XJ6 Series III Sovereign production numbers.
I recently purchased a 1987 XJ6 Series III Sovereign (114,000kms) in great
condition. One owner local car, serviced by jaguar dealer. The manufacture
date was Jan 1987. I have been trying to confirm how many of this model was
produced before the Series IV (XK40) was introduced in mid-1987. The
production figures on the link from Nick’s Jag-Web Page indicate only 159
which I find hard to believe.
Does anyone have these figures?
Incidently, I’ve been reading Mike Frank’s book reviews and I picked up a
good book from a local used book store that I can recommend:
" Great Marques - Jaguar"
Chris Harvey, Author
Foreword by Sterling Moss
First published in 1982 by
Octopus Books Limited,
59 Grosvenor Street,
London, W1
ISBN 0 7064 1687 2
The book has 80 pages with 78 colour photos, including a beautiful 1939
SS100 . Recounts history from Swallow to Jaguar XJ-S and includes a chapter
on the “Glory Years” of racing.
Cheers
Roy Crick,
Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 19:45:15 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Upper Cylinder Lubrication
Sorry if this has been beat to death by now, as I haven’t read my mail for
a while.
I have used Marvel Mystery Oil as an additive in my WWII-era generator,
which does not have hardened valve seats. The idea is to add a little
upper-cylinder lube since this thing is run on unleaded gas. I treat, on
the average, every fourth tank and the engine is in great shape. Not
exactly conclusive, tho.
I routinely use my left-over two-cycle gas mixes for ‘utility’ purposes
after boating season is over. This means lawnmower, snowblower, go-kart,
generator, and gas tanks of non-catalyst autos (old bombs). I run an
extremely rich oil mixture - like 20:1 - because that is what it takes to
keep my hi-performance outboard (Nikasil bores!) together. I do not see
any evidence of oil smoke from the exhausts of these four-cycle engines.
It also seems that the gas lasts a real long time without going stale –
over two years in fact.
John
On Thu, 5 Dec 1996, Kirbert wrote:
It is my understanding that the main reason diesel engines last
longer than gasoline engines is that diesel fuel itself (oil to you
Brits) has far more lubricity than gasoline (petrol to you Aussies).
Marvel Mystery Oil. This wonder stuff claims so many uses as to
Two-cycle oil.
From: TezFair@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 19:47:56 -0500
Subject: Re: 1987 XJ6 Series III Sovereign production numbers.
In a message dated 13/12/96 00:42:01, you write:
<< The manufacture date was Jan 1987. I have been trying to confirm how many
of this model was produced before the Series IV (XK40) was introduced in
mid-1987. The production figures on the link from Nick’s Jag-Web Page
indicate only 159
which I find hard to believe. >>
If memory serves me well that was the change over year from Series III to
XJ40 so it is possible that only a few were built before it came to the end
of the production run. Its basically one of the last S3’s to be built.
Terry Fairbother
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 13 Dec 96 10:08:42
Subject: V12 evolution
I’ve just read an article by that opinionated old git, LJK Setright, where he
severely criticises the HE design. This leads me to suspect that there is such
a thing as a post-HE V12; if anyone has details on the design changes, I’d
appreciate some information.
- -Jan
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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 13 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 584
Re: XJ-S Hood Bulges
Re: chevy unconversation
Re: XJ-S Hood Bulges
A Little Camber
Re: XJ6 SIII Coolant loss
XJ-S power mirror switch
re: Santa’s sleigh
Re: I need your advice on 91 Sovereign…
XJ40: Fixed the ABS light!
thinkin of buyin
How to Deal With Dead Fan Clutch
Re: XJ6 SIII Coolant loss
XJ6 SIII Coolant loss
Re: thinkin of buying a jag
Re: your fluid leak at booster/master cylinder
Re: XJ6 SIII Coolant loss
Re: V12 evolution
Re: Resonator vs. muffler
Re: your fluid leak at booster/master cylinder
5 Speed Conversion
Timing chain tool
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 20:05:47 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S Hood Bulges
Yup, I guess that is probably it. Or, as someone else suggested, the hood
was replaced for some reason.
John
On Thu, 5 Dec 1996, Chad Bolles wrote:
John: According to my Jaguar parts fiche dated March 1995 the part
number for the 6 cyl car is CBP303 the part number for the 12 cyl car is
RTC 1530. The RTC 1530 hood(bonnet) is the same part number used on all
XJ-S cars from 1976 and up. That does not mean that when a car was built
that the factory didn’t just use the 6 cyl hood on a V-12 car.
Chad Bolles Jagua South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798 3044
From: Grego14424@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 20:08:37 -0500
Subject: Re: chevy unconversation
I would give serious thought to finishing the conversation with the chevy
motor (assuming that it is “all there”). I have been using a chevy 350
powered XJ6 for 5,000 miles with no complaints. Think about it.
Greg Gangemi.
“Live long and prosper”
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 20:11:38 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ-S Hood Bulges
I wouldn’t think so, unless you also had a way to get the extra air out.
Might be good for HP, tho.
John
On Thu, 5 Dec 1996, Jim Isbell wrote:
I just had an idea. Would it improve the cooling of a V12 if you swapped
the hoods to a bulged hood and opened up the front of the bulge as an air scoop?
From: Christopher Healy cph@niroinc.com
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 20:25:39 -0500
Subject: A Little Camber
When I purchased my two year old XJ40 with 18,000 miles and under
warrantee the car had a slight pull to the left. I brought the car to a
local Goodyear dealer for an alignment and was given a very good
printout showing that the right front tire was in almost 1 degree on
top. This was the reason for the slight pull. The pull was more a
drift. The previous owner was a Brit in Washington working for the
World Bank. He had run the car a ground at some point because the right
fender had been resprayed and the fender and front light spacing is off
just enough to be noticable if you are looking for it. You are not told
these things buy selleers “buyer beware”.
Anyway, I brought the car to the Jag dealer and they confirmed that the
camber was out one degree. Also the caster shimms were piled on the
trailing edge of the top control arm. The dealer said that it probaby
was like that from the factory and there was nothing that could be done.
Maybe they knew the car had been tapped on the right? My next step was
to bring the car to a frame shop recommended by Jag. The estimate was
1,800 to replace the upper arm both joints, rotors and the Knuckle. The
Knukle was the killer. Even with these new parts they could not say if
that would correct the camber.
With the help of another Jag-Lover at work we ordered an upper ball
joint from John’s Cars and looked to see if we could machine the joint
to get the camber. The two holes in the joint were sized and then
elongated to the same side for each slot. We measured the distance from
the spindle to the joint to determine how much slot was need in the
joint. To get one degree of camber we would need almost 0.160 inches of
movement in the joint. The joint was set in the milling machine and we
were able to get 0.110 thousandths before we began to break into the
cavity that houses the ball. After inspection of the machined joint it
was determined that the joint would work and should be tried witout
taking any more out of the ball area.
The ball joint was installed so that the slots were facing the inner
part of the car and harded steel shimms were installed behind the bolts
to keep the joint positioned. The caster shimms were reinstalled as
removed and the upper arm secured.
The 0.110 thousandths was not enough to get both cambers to match but it
was enough to get it within the Jag specs. The car is now tracking
straight.
Chris Healy, P.E.
From: Kroppe kroppe@mich.com
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 20:44:21 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ6 SIII Coolant loss
John Littler wrote:
I’ve got a rapid coolant loss - appeared suddenly-
Can anyone give me any clues as what’s likely to go that quickly
My '82 SIII XJ6 started drinking coolant voraciously when it blew the
cylinder head gasket. I did not notice that the gasket had blown, other
than the coolant consumption and I did notice a brown sludge along the
inside of the cylinder head breather cap. Take you breather cap off (at
the front of the cylinder head) and if there is light brown sludge,
chances are you have water in your oil, and therefore a blown head
gasket. The cylinder head must be removed to put this right.
Also, while in the driveway, try revving the engine up to maybe 3000 or
4000 rpm to get the water flow up a little higher and see if there are
any leaks coming from hose clamps or the water pump.
Good luck. Hopefully it isn’t the head gasket.
B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6
From: armsco@primenet.com (Michael)
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 13:19:52 -0700 (MST)
Subject: XJ-S power mirror switch
While I sincerely appreciate members response to my previous posting, I did
not get the information I want.
It has been many years since I have worked with electronic circuits, but I
seem to remember that an electric motor that is wired to a second motor, to
allow mirror image positioning of the second motor, is called a servo.
Chances are good that my memory on the correct term is faulty.
At any rate I am looking for a source for one of the round cylinders, with
the adjustment lever attached, that is located inside the mirror switch.
I have found Kirby’s book a great source of help. However in this case I
would like to keep the switch assembly factory original. And, I prefer to
purchase all electrical parts new where ever possible. Hence my search for a
source for this “servo”.
Perhaps one of our Brit members knows of the origanil Jaguar source. My
local deale offers the entire switch assembly. As such I would assume that
indivual parts are available somewhere.
Thanks,
Michael
From: RMac@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 20:53:21 -0500
Subject: re: Santa’s sleigh
I have converted Robert J. Richardson’s joke photo of Santa, his comely elf,
and the replacement for that old sleigh into a jpg file that any so inclined
may view. Check it out at:
Robert MacLeay (rmac@aol.com)
1990 XJ40 VdP Majestic
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 13 Dec 96 10:49:09 EDT
Subject: Re: I need your advice on 91 Sovereign…
Donald Farr : …34 months into a 60 month warranty and they
charged me $39.75 for “CHARGING CIRCUIT TEST” as labor on top of the $45
replacement charge under the warranty.
Reaction 1: man, what a rip-off! I take less than 5 minutes to check for
correct charging! (what happens if it isn’t correct is another matter)
Reaction 2: 5 year warranty on a battery? Wow, all batteries I’ve ever dealt
with have been pretty clapped out after 2-3 years. I had one I nursed along for
nearly 4 years, but one day the engine didn’t fire first try and there wasn’t
enough juice left for a second try…
Reaction 3: Wait a minute, $85 is pretty much what a new battery costs, innit?
Profit margin and all? What a lovely way to run a warranty…
:3+)
- -Jan
From: cobac@ix.netcom.com
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 18:22:11 -0800
Subject: XJ40: Fixed the ABS light!
Hi all,
Glad to inform all that I have finally fixed the ABS light in my 89
XJ40. Many thanks to Randy Wilson for his great assistance in finding the
problem.
Well here’s what happened, there is a little wire as part of the
connector inside the ABS module under the bonnet. Seems like the tiny wire
broke off the plug that it and another wire were conneted. This disabled
the VCM message on the dash, not sure how, or what it does to the ABS to
disconnect the message.
So, today reconnected the wire. Now, the stupid ANTI-LOCK FAILURE
message stayed on ALL the time. It would NEVER turn off. So I began
thinking, since the ABS didn’t arm itself (wasn’t over 5mph or whatever) a
wheel sensor would not be the problem. It must be the stupid overvoltage
relay in the boot!!
Took the relay out, examined and found it had been tempered with. Seems
the incompetent mechanics the PO used couldn’t figure out how to fix the ABS
system. The relay was shot, never worked and would SOMETIMES click if I
pressed on it hard, this is when the light started going off. Then I took
out the trusty soldering gun, soldered ALL points inside the relay, and I
works like brand new. I guess the soldering joints fail inside causing
failure on most cars.
ABS was basically never working, after the fix, it works GREAT!! Light
turns on with engine off, immediately after startup it goes off with the
seatbelt lamp. I haven’t seen it at all after driving a couple of miles in
the rain. Now, all is good, and I know now that the ABS is working (even
tried it on a gravel road).
Only question is....is there supposed to be a relay next to the
OVERVOLTAGE relay in the boot? It is marked “Acces IGN ON” no relay in the
prongs though. Anyone have this in their car, or did my PO remove this too?
From: MBrewerii@aol.com
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 21:55:53 -0500
Subject: thinkin of buyin
I’m thinking of buying a XJ6 series III preferably an 84-86. Any suggestions?
Things to look for and questions to ask?
thanks
Mike Brewer
Monterey, CA
From: jthorner@prodigy.com ( JOHN T HORNER)
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 21:56:59, -0500
Subject: How to Deal With Dead Fan Clutch
- – [ From: John Horner * EMC.Ver #2.5.3 ] –
The centrifugal cooling fan clutch on my '67 420G is toast. It spins
freely and doesn’t transmit power to the fan. Apparently this clutch is
very hard to find. The few places I found it listed wanted >$150 for
one. Ouch.
I’ve been looking at flexible blade fans to replace the whole original
fan+clutch arrangement. It looks like I can get the right size fan and
adapters. I’m a little concerned about the warning against operation n
above 4,000 RPM. That is around 80 MPH cruising speed on this car (what
I really need is an overdrive on the auto transmission). Is anyone
else using one of these flex fans? Any comments on noise, cooling
capacity, recommended brands or the like?
Another option might be to mount a pusher type electric fan on the other
side of the radiator and do away with the factory parts altogether.
Considering that my alternator is presently dead, I’m a bit concerned
about the load of a fan (after I fix the alternator of course).
A third option would be to try and refill the clutch unit with whatever
viscous fluid it is supposed to have inside. Has anyone tried to
rebuild one of these things before? Comments?
A fourth option might be to try and find a later model replacement
clutch and fan, say from a S1 XJ6. Any advice on this?
TIA for any help.
John
From: John Littler jcl0004@ibm.net
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 14:42:30 +1000
Subject: Re: XJ6 SIII Coolant loss
BJ
Thanks for your reply - as I found out this morning when my car
imitated Niagra Falls - it was the water pump - thank heavens it wasn’t the
head gasket, then again, if it’d been the head gasket the repairs
would have been free as I had my engine rebuilt about 2500km’s ago…
John
Kroppe wrote:
My '82 SIII XJ6 started drinking coolant voraciously when it blew
the
cylinder head gasket. I did not notice that the gasket had blown,
other
than the coolant consumption and I did notice a brown sludge along
the
inside of the cylinder head breather cap. Take you breather cap
off (at
the front of the cylinder head) and if there is light brown
sludge,
chances are you have water in your oil, and therefore a blown head
gasket. The cylinder head must be removed to put this right.Also, while in the driveway, try revving the engine up to maybe
3000 or
4000 rpm to get the water flow up a little higher and see if there
are
any leaks coming from hose clamps or the water pump.Good luck. Hopefully it isn’t the head gasket.
B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6
From: “A. Gardner” gardnera@SLUVCA.SLU.EDU
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 22:04:37 -0600 (CST)
Subject: XJ6 SIII Coolant loss
John wrote(snip)
all I can see is the drip appearing at 2 points the bottom of
the engine and off the fan belt pulley (right term ?) just to the right
of the alternator ( as viewed from drivers seat).
Seems like water pump time. About half a day to replace if you are familiar
with it, perhaps a whole day if not.
any tips as to disassembly so I can see whats going on - can I pull the
shroud off without removing the bonnet ?
I took some notes the last time I took my cowl (shroud?) off (1986 XJ6 S III
U.S. spec with AC):
It is possible to remove the cowl (and the water pump) without removing the
bonnet if you remove the bolt to the bracket that restricts forward movement
of the bonnet and then prop it with a piece of wood (careful how far forward
you go - just touch the bumper). I replaced this bolt with a clevis pin to
speed things up in future. However, if you do decide to remove the pump it
is easier with the hood off. Another tip. I drilled a couple of holes in
each hinge and fitted tension pins (spring steel tubes with a slit) to
facilitate lining the thing back up.
To remove the cowl you must remove the fan and top hose (and the red relay
according to my notes). Do not slacken the belts until you have removed the
fan or you will will have difficulty getting the nuts holding the fan off.
There are four nuts holding the fan to the water pump, slacken these and not
the bolts holding fan to torquatrol unit. The fan will not come out until
you remove the cowl which is held with four bolts two at the top and two at
the bottom. The bottom two require you to remove the air dam attached to
the bottom of the bumper. Now lift cowl a couple of inches and tilt towards
the engine so the cowl rests on a ledge at the bottom of the radiator. Fan
with torquatrol unit can now be removed between radiator and cowl but it is
a tight squeeze. Cowl then lifts out. If you intend working on the pump it
is a good idea to protect the radiator with an appropriate size piece of
wood or heavy cardboard - guess how I know?
Have fun.
Tony Gardner
XJ6 Series III 1986
From: John Littler jcl0004@ibm.net
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 15:08:03 +1000
Subject: Re: thinkin of buying a jag
Visit
http://www.sn.no/home/nick/jaguar.html
for lots of info
and while your at it
John
MBrewerii@aol.com wrote:
I’m thinking of buying a XJ6 series III preferably an 84-86. Any
suggestions?
Things to look for and questions to ask?thanks
Mike Brewer
Monterey, CA
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 22:44:31 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: your fluid leak at booster/master cylinder
Randy,
Appreciate the advice and concern of the information …
First off, I would like to apologize, for that rather rude reply I sent
this evening. I was under a bit of pressure, and out of time, and ran
off at the keyboard without much thought. The info I posted was even
wrong. The XJ40 does drive the rear brakes with the rear piston, unlike
the other Jag’s that are front from the rear.
Yes, I did check the reservoir seals (leaked on many cars prior) they are
like brand new. No fatigue, are dry (no seapage), and hold the reservoir
firmly in place. Definitely coming out of the mounting area.
Ah. then it is, alas, time to rebuild or replace. The choice is up to you.
I rebuild the cylinders in my own cars. But the liability risks doing it
professionally muddy the choice a bit.
I’m sure NAPA doesn’t sell a kit for this. Should I go with Hal Rogers
$37 aftermarket kit? It does NOT include the pistons like Jaguar, though.
Sure the Jag kit would come close to a new cylinder! Any bad experience
from using this “Aftermarket stuff” in this sort of application, or does the
pistons need replacment necessarily?
The wear tends to be much greater on the bore (cylinder) than the actual
piston. Jag might be just selling a the kit in a “drop-in” replacement
form. Seals already installed in the correct orientation; spacers and
spring washers the right place, etc.
I can not comment on Hal’s kit, as I have never seen it. If it is OEM rubber
bits (Lucas/Girling), then it should be fine. The price is certainly reasonable
compared to the Jag kit.
Thanks,
Eric
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 13 Dec 96 10:14:58
Subject: Re: XJ6 SIII Coolant loss
I hate tracking down coolant leaks: because of the pressurisation, even a very
small hole in a hose can cause lots of leakage, and once the pressure is off,
the rubber closes up and the leak stops. I suggest topping the system right up
and pressurising it through the overflow pipe and the vacuum relief valve.
- -Jan
From: Volker Nadenau nadenau@ipers1.e-technik.uni-stuttgart.de
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 08:51:06 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: V12 evolution
Hi Jan,
On 13 Dec 1996, Jan Wikstroem wrote:
I’ve just read an article by that opinionated old git, LJK Setright, where he
severely criticises the HE design. This leads me to suspect that there is such
a thing as a post-HE V12; if anyone has details on the design changes, I’d
appreciate some information.
-Jan
could you please give the reference of the article you have read. I am
also very interested in the evolution of the V12s. As far as I remember a
few months ago ‘Jaguar World’ promised a review article about trhe V12s.
But there was no review. The new XK8 filled nearly the whole magazine.
Volker
Volker Nadenau Phone: ++49 711 685 7200
University of Stuttgart Fax : ++49 711 685 7143
Institute for Physical Electronics Internet: nadenau@ipers1.e-technik.uni-stuttgart.de
Pfaffenwaldring 47
70569 Stuttgart
Germany
From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 09:17:23 -0800
Subject: Re: Resonator vs. muffler
Dear chaps,
I have never heard resonator being used in connection with things most of us do
what we can to silence. The word comes from ‘resonant’ which has to do with
prolonging or continuing sounds. Hence a resonator is a device or appliance
designed to increase sounds by resonance.
Just having finished reassembling our Series I XJ6 after a light restoration
some two and a half years ago, we went to the annual club meet. I soon became
aware that the exhaust was eating through the sharp bend on one of the straight
pipes leading to one of the front silencers. Apart from the part where we
defiled through the small town, at which point we would have been up there with
the XKs had we been grouped after sound, it was great! All of a sudden the XJ
was turned into the most hairy sports car imaginable. I fell in love with the
sound, so maybe we should swap the silencers/mufflers for some resonators.
Cheers!
Bard
______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no
From: nbutler@brill.acomp.usf.edu
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 09:05:21 -0500
Subject: Re: your fluid leak at booster/master cylinder
I’ve found a similiar syndrome of disbelief as to the number of common
and interchangeable componets between Jag models. Your XJ40 ABS brake
system has some diffs compared to the US XJ6 models, but the internals
of the master cylinder are the same. Likewise, a leak between the jag
master cylinder to booster cylinder flange has but one cause, and that
is a ruptured seal in the master cylinder, period. Try this…
Order the US master cylinder rebuild kit for the XJ6-XJS w/ABS as the
same yr or nxt yr of your XJ40. What you’ll find in the kit is enough
rubber seals and spacers for one and a half cylinders. Use the seals
that are appropriate and don’t worry about the left overs…it seems
they (jag) pack a several additional seals to cover the minor variations
in year to year models so we ignorant stateside motorists won’t have to
look up our VIN’s.
From: Chasrahm@aol.com
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 08:58:00 -0500
Subject: 5 Speed Conversion
Dear jag lovers,
| I used to be a member of jag-lovers but got into a flap with my internet
| provider and got off the net for a while.
| I’m in the process of converting my 71 XJ6 to a 5 Speed gearbox.
| Here’s my plan:
| Get the adapter kit from John’s cars (Quarterbreed) to swap the BW
| tranny for a GM 350 or 700. Use the bellhousing adapter to bolt up a
| GM bellhousing which will allow a T5 gearbox to attach. I’ll need a
| GM flywheel and drill the necessary crankshaft holes. Use a GM starter.
| The kit contains a rear mount which should work for the gearbox.
| Since my car doesnt have a catalytic converter, I’ll convert to a one piece
| drive shaft.
| I haven’t quite figured out what to do about the pilot bushing?
| What about speedo?
| The length from the front of the GM bellhousing to the gearshift is
| about 27 inches which should place the shifter just about perfect.
| The bellhousing adapter is 1 inch thick.
| I need a pedal box. Anyone out there with a pedal box, clutch master
| cylinder?
| Since my re-up on the Jag-lovers probably hasnt started yet
| please send your replies to chasrahm@aol.com.
| (yes, I signed up on AOL for a while.)
| Thanks!
| Charles Rahm
| Dallas, TX
| 71 E-Type V12
| 71 XJ6
| 87 Vanden Plas
| (972) 783-8860 FAX
|
From: Richard Griffiths 73564.2101@CompuServe.COM
Date: 13 Dec 96 10:42:08 EST
Subject: Timing chain tool
No. The tool can easilly be made if you own a drill, hack saw and file. I once
tried to purchase one of their tools from the largest Jag Dealer in Oxford UK
and was refused because I was not in “the trade”.
The tool basically consists of two pegs or pins 3/16 dia 3/16 high at 1.25
inches on center. I have made tools two different ways; by cutting back the end
of a piece of steel tubing to form the two pins and cross drilling the other
end so a screw driver can be fitted for leverage if neccessary, and by drilling
two holes in a block of aluminum to accept two pieces of 3/16 dia brazing wire
and using an adjustable wrench on the block.
Both worked, the tube was the easiest to use and was given a home in my tool
box.
Good Luck
Richard
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #584
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Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 06:16:47 +0100 (MET)
Message-Id: 199612140516.GAA11488@ekeberg.sn.no
From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #585
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jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 14 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 585
Would you but a newer high mileage car or a older low mile car?
First letter.
Hub splines on E-type
Jag-Lovers chat in Manlo Park CA
Re: First letter.
Dilbert strikes again!! (no Jag content)
Heater Core & Old Sock Aroma
Re: How to Deal with a dead fan clutch
Window sealer…
E-Type splines RR
Re: XJ40: Fixed the ABS light!
More Reviews
XJ40: Odometer Operation
Mark X/420G Centrifugal Clutch Problem Solved
timing chain
Re: Heater Core & Old Sock Aroma
Leaky XJS Article Scanned !
Re: 1 to 3 wire 02 sensor change
Toward Better Brake Lights
From: "Rich Lewis"Rich_Lewis@notes.teradyne.com
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 11:00:37 -0400
Subject: Would you but a newer high mileage car or a older low mile car?
Each week I read the Sunday paper in search of the perfect car to replace my
1983 XJS coupe with 44K miles, in the last couple of weeks I have identified a
couple of possible candidates that possibly poses an interesting question for
the group.
Car #1: 1994 XJS 6 cylinder convertible with 81K miles for $25,900 (US). The
car is reported in great shape mostly highway miles. Didn’t ask about the
service records. Available from a local dealer.
Car #2: 1991 XJS coupe 12 cylinder coupe with 16K miles for $26,00) (US). I
seen the car and it is flawless ( little old lady on Sundays??). Haven’t check
into the service records. Available from a different dealer.
Question: I am intrigued by the thought of having a convertible but some what
concerned by the high miles. Neither car is eligible for the current select
edition extended warranty and financing currently offered by dealers in the
states. The price of the convertible is $10K less than the current market
valuable for a 1994 convertible. Do people think that the costs for future
repairs due to wear out of components (starter, exhaust, etc. due to the high
miles would be covered by the discount from market value? Would it be worth the
premium for the coupe as a low mile car as the depreciation will be slower? Or
are the deals different yet really about the same and the decision should be
made on other factors such as a 12 cylinder versus 6 cylinder, convertible
versus coupe etc.
From: Laura Thayer lthayer1@ashland.edu
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 11:04:02 -0500 (EST)
Subject: First letter.
Dear:
I’m not sure if this is the place that I’m supposed to send my mail,
but anyway…
My name is Laura Thayer and I live in Ashland, Ohio. I’ve been interested
in Jaguars for about two years now. My dream is to own a series three
E-type roadster, Black with tan interior. Some day I intend to. Right now
I have to get my drivers licence because I’m of age(finally). I’m not sure
what I’ve gotten into with this mailing list, so I thought I’d just send
a plain letter.
Thanks much!
Laura Thayer
From: “Robert J. Richardson” rrichardson@eurekanet.com
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 12:47:34 -0500
Subject: Hub splines on E-type
What’s the best thing to apply to the hub splines to make wire wheels easy
to remove. Would ordinary grease lubricant do the job to prevent rust and
seizure?
From: Martin Fooks Martin.Fooks@centurasoft.com
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 10:02:46 -0800
Subject: Jag-Lovers chat in Manlo Park CA
Many thanks to my fellow Jag-Lovers who have given me advice on my trip
to the Bay Area and offered to meet up for a couple of drinks and a
chat.
We have decided to meet at the BBC (British Bankers Club) by the
fireplace in the back bar. The BBC is on the corner of Santa Cruz and
El Camino and we shall be there from around 5:45 on Monday 16th
December.
Just look out for a group of around 4 people talking about fine British
cars and smiling
Please feel free to drop by if you are near the area on Monday evening.
Martin Fooks.
Tel 415 321 9500 (work)
From: “Jeremy D Kellett” kelletjd@academic.fpc.edu
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 13:00:49 EST
Subject: Re: First letter.
Laura,
I too am much like you. I’m 18, a jaguar lover, and wishing for a
cat. My dream is for my parent’s beautifull XK-120 convertable. Grey
, with red interior. I have the grill of a 140 mounted in my room, and the
hood cat on a piece of wood in my dorm room. We have the 120 already,
but it need minor work on the interior, and minor bodywork. Luckily it
has no rust.
This mailing list is pretty cool. It has to do with all sorts of
problems wit jags. However most of it has to do with modern jags,
XJ-6’s, 8’s and 12’s. There is, I believe a dedicated E-type mailing list.
But I don’t know where.
Good luck on your dreams… An E-type is a nice car, but, in my
humble opinion, nothing beats a 120 as it roars (almost literally)
down the road.
Regards,
Jeremy David Kellett
Franklin Pierce College
'52 XK-120
'58 XK-150
From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 13:42:49 -0600
Subject: Dilbert strikes again!! (no Jag content)
Not a mention of a Jag in this one…
In the vein of the Dilbert comic strip…
Dilberted
To be exploited and oppressed by your boss. Derived from the experiences
of Dilbert, the geek-in-hell comic strip character. “I’ve been dilberted
again. The old man revised the specs for the fourth time this week.”
Link Rot
The process by which links on a web page became as obsolete as the sites
they’re connected to change location or die.
Chip Jewelry
A euphamism for old computers destined to be scrapped or turned into
decorative ornaments. “I paid three grand for that Mac SE, and now it’s
nothing but chip jewelry.”
Crapplet
A badly written or profoundly useless Java applet. “I just wasted 30
minutes downloading this stinkin’ crapplet!”
Plug-and-Play
A new hire who doesn’t need any training. “The new guy, John, is great.
He’s totally plug-and-play.”
World Wide Wait
The real meaning of WWW.
CGI Joe
A hard-core CGI script programmer with all the social skills and charisma
of a plastic action figure.
Dorito Syndrome
Feelings of emptiness and dissatisfaction triggered by addictive
substances that lack nutritional content. “I just spent six hours surfing
the Web, and now I’ve got a bad case of Dorito Syndrome.”
Under Mouse Arrest
Getting busted for violating an online service’s rule of conduct. “Sorry
couldn’t get back to you. AOL put me under mouse arrest.”
Glazing
Corporate-speak for sleeping with your eyes open. A popular pastime at
conferences and early-morning meetings. “Didn’t he notice that half the
room was glazing by the second session?”
404
Someone who’s clueless. From the World Wide Web message “404, URL Not
found,” meaning that the document you’ve tried to access can’t be located.
“Don’t bother asking him…he’s 404, man.”
Dead Tree Edition
The paper version of a publication available in both paper and electronic
forms, as in: “The dead tree edition of the San Francisco Chronicle…”
Egosurfing
Scanning the net, databases, print media, or research papers looking for
the mention of your name.
Graybar Land
The place you go while you’re staring at a computer that’s processing
something very slowly (while you watch the gray bar creep across the
screen). “I was in graybar land for what seemed like hours, thanks to that
CAD rendering.”
Open-Collar Workers
People who work at home or telecommute.
Squirt The Bird
To transmit a signal up to a satellite. “Crew and talent are ready…what
time do we squirt the bird?”
Brain Fart
A biproduct of a bloated mind producing information effortlessly. A burst
of useful information. “I know you’re busy on the Microsoft story, but can
you give us a brain fart on the Mitnik bust?” Variation of old hacker
slang that had more negative connotations.
Cobweb Site
A World Wide Web Site that hasn’t been updated for a long time. A dead
web page.
It’s a Feature
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jag-lovers-digest Sunday, 15 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 586
Re: Heater Core & Old Sock Aroma
Re: First letter.
Toward Better Brake Lights
brake masters
Steering Column Bearing Sources
re: Hub splines on E-type
mk2 lower ball joint
Re: XK-120’s
Re: First letter.
XJ-S: Fuel consumption
Need Part for V12 ignition.
Re: Limited slip diffs
Re: Toward Better Brake Lights
V12 powered triumph TR7 !
Re: mk2 lower ball joint
ABS Brake Problem
British licence plates
Re: mk2 lower ball joint
Re: Would you but a newer high mileage car or a older low mile car?
Mk 2 Limited Slip ???
RE: chevy unconversation
re:aircon problem tip
head mods
Re: Mk 2 Limited Slip ???
From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 00:17:57 -0005
Subject: Re: Heater Core & Old Sock Aroma
I got a new heater core from SICP for 129US. Outstanding price, but it’s
not quite plug and play. It comes with the pipes attached which means
the old pipes have to go. Can anyone give any tips on getting the old
pipes out of an '88 xj-s?
Sounds wrong. The early XJ-S system came with a one-piece heater
core, pipes part of core. Later units (Delanaire MkIII) have pipes
that bolt onto the core. I don’t believe the two are
interchangible. I suspect you got the wrong core.
– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate
From: Sergey Leonidov 74262.724@CompuServe.COM
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 00:34:19 -0500
Subject: Re: First letter.
<>
College meaning the law center by any chance?
Sergey Leonidov
From: MacLennan&Peirson camp@televar.com
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 96 23:29:00 -0800
Subject: Toward Better Brake Lights
Kirbert,
Hot rodders have been using halogen tail lamps lately. If my undergraduate research is still current, the factors most effecting rt are area of light and intensity. It also seems I recall that halogens emit more quickly than incandescents.
Chuck Peirson
From: MichaelHooker triumph1@gramercy.ios.com
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 07:38:00 -0500 (EST)
Subject: brake masters
hello,
regarding xj6 brake masters, i bought a rebuilt unit at a local
parts store for my 1984. it was from beck -arnley. it was re-bored oversize
and had a better warrantee than a new one. list was 104.00, but i paid
65.00( trade price). i guess you could expect to pay somewhere in between .
it seemed a much better deal than rebuilding it myself.
Mike Hooker
From: “Peterson, Gerry” gp@dlvd.mdc.com
Date: 14 Dec 1996 08:48:28 U
Subject: Steering Column Bearing Sources
My thanks to all who responded to my recent post concerning steering column
bearings. I appreciated all replies but could not respond to each because of a
server problem.
Having decided to used the plastic bearings, I now find that XK’s Unlimited and
SICP are both out of stock. Can anyone suggest another source (preferably in the
U.S.)
Thanks once again. And a special thanks to George Cohn for establishing this
forum for all of us afflicted with the E-Type fever!!
Gerry Peterson
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 10:07:02 -0500 (EST)
Subject: re: Hub splines on E-type
Robert:
I hd been using regular chassis grease, but I found that it tended to
attract too much grit, and made the wheels h_a_r_d_e_r to remove as time
went by. I am now using a very light coat of anti-sieze (the silver stuff),
with better success, at least so far. I think that whatever you use, you
should plan on cleaning the splines and applying fresh lube periodically.
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
From: “Robert J. Richardson” rrichardson@eurekanet.com
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 1996 12:47:34 -0500
Subject: Hub splines on E-typeWhat’s the best thing to apply to the hub splines to make wire wheels easy
to remove. Would ordinary grease lubricant do the job to prevent rust and
seizure?
From: glite@eos.net
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 11:23:56 -0500
Subject: mk2 lower ball joint
I am disassembling the front suspension on a Mk2. In the lower ball
joint, some type of fiber material (described as the Railko Socket in
the service manual) has become fused to the cap which I assume
maintains pressure or tension on the lower ball joint. Any suggestion
regarding removal of whats left of this fiber cup? I have wire brushed
a lot of it out but there must be an easier way! Thanks.
George Leicht
glite@eos.net
From: “Jeremy D Kellett” kelletjd@academic.fpc.edu
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 15:17:36 EST
Subject: Re: XK-120’s
Mr. and Mrs. Freeman,
Thanks a lot for the info about the XK mailing list.
Are you a fan of the XK’s?
My father has a XK-120 convertable and a XK-150 convertable. The 150
was burnt up in a barn fire a couple of years ago. We’ll be trying to
fix it after I get out of college. However it is mechanically and physically
in excellent shape. The lead on the right side has melted. Of course the
paint is completely gone. However it is being stored in a dry cool area.
Do you know anyone who can do the lead work on the 150? Hopefully
in the North East area.
On a side note, I’d just like to express how impressed I am with the Jaguar owners on this list. Especially how you’ve gotten together with people from out of the states when they visit. Thanks from yet another sleeper, Jeremy From: Sergey Leonidov 74262.724@CompuServe.COM Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 15:40:31 -0500 Subject: Re: First letter. <<No, FPC is a small (1200 students) Liberal Arts college in Rindge NH. We have a decent pre-law program, but I don’t think it is anything major. Do you know of my college? Did you go here? Jeremy>> I know of Franklin Pierce Law Center that specializes in patent law. I go to a law school in Boston, have an interest in the Intellectual Property laws. Sergey Leonidov From: Stiens@t-online.de (Peter Stiens) Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 22:15:24 -0800 Subject: XJ-S: Fuel consumption hi, my local dealer is offering a XJ-S HE at a good price and i seriously think of buying and using it as a daily driver. Therefore i have to know all about costs ;-(, especially fuel consumption. Kirby’s book says 12-13 litres/100 Kilometers, what is really hard to believe. Does anyone have real values of fuel consumption for different situations, e.g. city, countryroad, highway? Second question that has to be answered - especially here in germany - does the car have a katalyst? Does anyone know, since when XJ-S are fitted with a katalyst? TIA Peter Stiens Germany 1967 Daimler Sovereign LHD From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell) Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 15:29:58 -0600 Subject: Need Part for V12 ignition. I am looking for an amplifier to distributor cable for a 1985 V12 HE. I need the one with two conductors and a shield. The amp end has a square plastic connector and a banjo ground connector while the dist end has a two prong connector like a trailer connector. I am looking for a used one CHEAP or FREE. Mine is still working but on its last legs. I havent even priced a new one because I know they will want way too much for it. That simple vacumme advance unit was $72 !!! Jim “Better an outlaw than not free.” Nance O’Neil From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 17:51:32 -0005 Subject: Re: Limited slip diffs Jan Wikstroem: This is no limited slip diff. If you have one, and it’s in working order, it will be extremely hard to turn one rear wheel if both are off the ground and the transmission is in PARK. Maybe not. The Power-Lok diffs used in Jags react to the amount of torque applied to drive the wheels. As torque increases, it applies pressure to a stack of friction disks, increasing restriction for one wheel to turn relative to the other. However, with the car on jackstands, the only restriction to such rotation is the preload on that stack of disks. Anybody know how much torque it should require to turn one wheel when unloaded? Now, some other cars have a different system, wherein the preload on the disks is fixed and does not increase with torque. These typically provide a certain amount of restriction to relative rotation even on jackstands, and it would be very hard to turn by hand indeed – several hundred foot-pounds of torque required. Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | - Palm’s Postulate From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 17:51:32 -0005 Subject: Re: Toward Better Brake Lights Chuck Peirson: If my undergraduate research is still current, the factors most effecting rt are area of light and intensity. I strongly suspect the research in this area. I don’t dispute the concepts of area and intensity; however, the rules requiring the third light were based on its being closer to line of sight, which I doubt was actually the benefit. I suspect the REAL reason these lights improve rt is that they are dedicated brake lights, not combo tail/brake/turn signal. It takes slightly longer for the mind to realize that taillights that have been on for a while are now BRIGHTER, and to note that they are BOTH on and not flashing. If the driver ahead is pumping the brakes and has a turn signal on, good luck EVER figuring out what the taillights were trying to tell you before it’s too late! A couple decades ago, someone suggested that taillights should be green, turn signals amber, and brake lights should be the only thing that was red on the rear of a car. Would this improve rt’s significantly? I bet it would, and would love to see a test. The same guy said “Where would we be if traffic lights were red for go and brighter red for stop?” It also seems I recall that halogens emit more quickly than incandescents. Probably true, but they still operate by heating a filament and therefore require time. An LED requires no time, is on INSTANTLY. Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | - Palm’s Postulate From: John Goodman 101547.1141@CompuServe.COM Date: 14 Dec 96 19:19:31 EST Subject: V12 powered triumph TR7 ! http://triumph.cs.utah.edu/TR8/Conversions/V12.html Found this wild TR7 with Jag IRS and 350 bhp V12 while surfin’ for TWR sites. Anyone know if TWR has any presence on the net ?? John Goodman '89 XJR-S 6.0L From: glite@eos.net Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 19:28:11 -0500 Subject: Re: mk2 lower ball joint jaguar@clynx.com wrote:
George: Instead of going to all the trouable messing with the ball
joint , why don’t you just replace them with the ball joint from the
XJ-40 car(88 and later). The newer ball joint is one piece instead of a
bunch of pieces. I use them in all my front end jobs that I do.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798
3044
Wow, something that is easier on a Jaguar! It looks like the XJ40
lower ball joint just screws into the Mk2 stub axle carrier and I don�t
have to mess with the shims!
I have had this '65 Mk2 for about one month this seems to be the first
time a repair is simpler than on my Triumphs. Thanks Chad.
George Leicht
glite@eos…net
From: Rod Farmer 100646.664@CompuServe.COM
Date: 14 Dec 96 19:40:31 EST
Subject: ABS Brake Problem
ABS
I have the following problem with my Daimler Sovereign (Jag XJ40) 1988 model. As
I stop, the ABS system ‘works’. This happens at probably less than 1 m.p.h. .
Just as the car finally pulls up, the ABS grinds away for a few seconds. The
only time this will not happen is when the ABS failure warning comes on. This
happened once or twice when starting from cold and disappears after one or two
applications of the brakes.
I have already put this problem forward and acted on all advice. The work has
been carried out be experienced Jaguar mechanics. The pads have been renewed,
the fluid drained and replaced, the calipers examined and ‘freed up’, (they were
sticking on the sliders) the sensors physically checked and cleaned up. Still
have the problem, no better or worse than before all this work. My garage and
me are at a lose.
The tyres are very good and origianal specification, wheels are origianal and
tyre pressures checked.
Can anyone save me from the ultimate fate? A trip to the MAIN DEALERS who are
incredibly expensive!!!
Any ideas or sugestions will be welcome.
From: Rod Farmer 100646.664@CompuServe.COM
Date: 14 Dec 96 19:40:36 EST
Subject: British licence plates
Suffix letters operated from Jan to Dec when first introduced in '63, but in
'67 the system was changed and each new letter started on the 1st of August
and ended on the 31st of July of the following year.
When the suffix letters ran out in July '83, prefix letters were introduced,
with ‘A’ coming into effect on 1st August 1983.
Actual production dates do not effect registration, hence you could have a
‘1994’ car which was built long before, perhaps hanging about a dealers or in
the factory yard.
Suffix letters started : ‘A’ Feb 1963 to Dec 1963 then, ‘B’ Jan 64 to Dec 64
etc. prefix started ‘A’ August 1983 to August 1984 etc etc.
We have never used letters O,I,Z or Q as they can be confused with numbers, so
if you are working out when your car was registered in the U.K , remember to
discount those letters.
Rod Farmer |
From: Doug Heinen povtybay@wolfenet.com
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 17:25:13 +0930
Subject: Re: mk2 lower ball joint
glite@eos.net wrote:
jaguar@clynx.com wrote:
George: Instead of going to all the trouable messing with the ball
joint , why don’t you just replace them with the ball joint from the
XJ-40 car(88 and later). The newer ball joint is one piece instead of a
bunch of pieces. I use them in all my front end jobs that I do.
Chad Bolles Jaguar South 306 Valcour Rd Columbia SC 29212USA 803 798
3044Wow, something that is easier on a Jaguar! It looks like the XJ40
lower ball joint just screws into the Mk2 stub axle carrier and I don�t
have to mess with the shims!
Does this apply to the Series 3 XJ6’s as well! (hope-hope-hope!)
,,,
/'^'\
( o o )
- --------------------------------------------------oOOO–(_)–OOOo–
Doug Heinen
(Something witty here as soon as I think it up!) .oooO
Federal Way, WA USA ( ) Oooo. - --------------------------------------------------\ (-------( )—
_) ) /
(_/
From: jthorner@prodigy.com ( JOHN T HORNER)
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 19:57:58, -0500
Subject: Re: Would you but a newer high mileage car or a older low mile car?
- – [ From: John Horner * EMC.Ver #2.5.3 ] –
Question: I am intrigued by the thought of having a convertible but
some what
concerned by the high miles. Neither car is eligible for the current
select
edition extended warranty and financing currently offered by dealers
in the
states. The price of the convertible is $10K less than the current
market
valuable for a 1994 convertible. Do people think that the costs for
future
repairs due to wear out of components (starter, exhaust, etc. due to
the high
miles would be covered by the discount from market value? Would it be
worth
the premium for the coupe as a low mile car as the depreciation will
be slower?
Personally I would go with the high mileage newer car if it had been
thoroughly maintained by the book with records and if the miles were
truely mostly highway mileage. It’s hard to imagine how 80k+ miles
could be put on a car in two-three years unless they were highway miles.
Mileage as an indicator of wear and tear on a car is a very crude
measurement. Most engine mechanical wear happens on start up. Most
chassis wear (brakes, shocks, bushings, etc) is a result of acceleration
, braking, hard cornering and pot holes.
I would guess that true moderate speed (<80MPH) highway cruising is
probably only 1/10 the wear per mile as is city driving.
I would certainly insist upon a complete review of the service records.
If it’s a highway miles car you should see very little chassis or brake
repairs being needed. Actually, you should see little more than
scheduled preventative maint. type items.
YMMV, John
From: Ken Wallace kwallac2@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 17:41:57 -0800
Subject: Mk 2 Limited Slip ???
I have just rebuilt the rear suspension on my Mk 2. New rubber mounts etc.
It was with some alarm that I noticed that I cannot turn the rotors
independently
of one another as would be expected of a normal differential. The only
expanation would be a limited slip or a damaged differential. I pulled off
the cover and could not see any obvious clutch plates, but the housing for the
spider gears is differnt than the ones shown in the book. It is more of a
cylidrical shape. The same diameter its whole length. The housing in the book
is tapered as it approached the carrier bearing. All the gears look fine and
there
is the usual polishing on thier faces indicating that they are indeed turning
as the car rounds a corner.
There are two tags attached to bolts retaining the diff. cover. One
is stamped with " P-1 " and the other says 46/13 which is obviously the ratio.
What does the P-1 mean?
From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 03:38:09 +0100
Subject: RE: chevy unconversation
Greg,
Kinda hard to have an intelligent conversation with a chebby lump
engine, isn’t it?
I’ve talked to all my cars, some answer back and some don’t. All I’ve
ever heard from a lump engine is that never ending, mindless throb.
Jaguar engines are a different story, though. They not only talk to you,
if you rev 'em up they even sing to you!
A lump can’t do that…
Gunnar
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar Sovereign 4.2
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | '73 Mercedes 280 (240D)
From: Grego14424@aol.com[SMTP:Grego14424@aol.com]
Sent: 13. desember 1996 02:08
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Re: chevy unconversationI would give serious thought to finishing the conversation with the chevy
motor (assuming that it is “all there”). I have been using a chevy 350
powered XJ6 for 5,000 miles with no complaints. Think about it.Greg Gangemi.
“Live long and prosper”
From: Tom Graham TGraham@internetmci.com
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 19:26:33 -0500
Subject: re:aircon problem tip
- – [ From: Tom Graham * EMC.Ver #2.3 ] –
Morning Chaps-
I’ll second that tip about re-seating fuses and connectors. Probably 80%
of the electrical problems I have seen, whether Jag, Ford, TV, or computer
network have been connection/connector related. Try the simple easy things
first - it may be your lucky day!!!
Cherio - Tom
From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 1996 22:47:24 -0600
Subject: head mods
for those of you who were offended by the dilbertized humor post
yesterday.
Apologies.
for those of you who replied out of this mail group to say thanks for the
humor!
You’re Welcome!!
Will the parts list for an 87 XJ6 head be ready soon?
“Cogito Ergo Lpomoea Batatas”
I think therefore I yam
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 00:05:18 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Mk 2 Limited Slip ???
the cover and could not see any obvious clutch plates, but the housing for the
spider gears is differnt than the ones shown in the book. It is more of a
cylidrical shape. The same diameter its whole length. The housing in the book
is tapered as it approached the carrier bearing. All the gears look fine and
there
is the usual polishing on thier faces indicating that they are indeed turning
as the car rounds a corner.
The shape certainly suggests a Salisbury clutch tpye limited slip. The clutch
stacks will be behind the side gears inside the carrier. This is why it
it stays “fat” in that area rather than necking down to the bearing.
on Kirby’s question of static break-away torque. With both the Salisbury and
the Dana, it’s a bunch. In new condition, I would guess several hundred ft-lbs.
It’s more than can be exerted casually grabbing a single wheel and trying to
turn it.
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
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Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #587
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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 16 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 587
Re: First letter.
chevy unconversation and a song in our engine bays
Drive stub axle oil seal leak – 83 XJ6 S3
Searchable Archives!?
Re: ABS Brake Problem
Re: Mk 2 Limited Slip ???
Mk V owners.
Re: Drive stub axle oil seal leak – 83 XJ6 S3
Re: Searchable Archives!?
Lower Ball Joint Info
Disaster recovery
RE: First letter.
High Mileage/Low Milage Car
A big XJ6 battery.
FW: Disaster recovery
Stake down for valves
Mk 2 Rattling windows
RE: XJS Vibrations and HE intro date
Re: Stake down for valves
Re: ABS Brake Problem
Re: mk2 lower ball joint
Re: ABS Brake Problem
From: Sergey Leonidov 74262.724@CompuServe.COM
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 00:38:59 -0500
Subject: Re: First letter.
<<I believe this is private correspondence that should be sent privately,
not
to the entire membership of the Jaguar listserv! Regards…>>
I beleive some people just care who they are conversing with, just for the
sake of knowledge. After all, I cannot call you Mr. V12 or Mr. L6. Or
maybe you prefer it. Hey you, there, whatcha call it, Mr. V12 Rebuilt
Alternator Green Paint Wired Caps Hella Fog Light Steering Wheel
Attchement, help me out here…
Get it?
Sergey Leonidov
strike that
better yet:
No Jaguar Owned Only Interest VW Driver Red Paint Fabric Seats Fog Lights
No Mods Dirty Wheels Standard Steering Chipped Fog Light Squeeking Door
Lock No Jaguar Just Interested Have A Spare Alternator But No Jaguar Driver
From: Grego14424@aol.com
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 10:46:32 -0500
Subject: chevy unconversation and a song in our engine bays
Gunar
that may be true that the jag motors sings, BUT i dont need to hear the three
tenors to get to and from work. My conversation was based purely on
economics, the chevy motor was cheap, powerful, and parts easily obtainable.
The final point: I needed a starter last week, bought a new rebuilt one for
$20. Try that with that three tenor motor you have.
Remember, this is all in good fun. WE ALL LOVE OUR JAGS!!!
Greg
From: Kyle Chatman kchatman@mail.coin.missouri.edu
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 11:03:25 -0600
Subject: Drive stub axle oil seal leak – 83 XJ6 S3
This time I try it myself… If you’ll help that is 8).=20
When I bought my car, about 1 year ago, it had an oil leak where the =
differential connects to the disk. Now the other side is leaking and I =
would like to try this one myself. Last time I didn’t try the repair for =
two reasons. First, the make and model was brand new to me and second, =
the part about the compression seal threw me. Anyway, I would =
appreciate a recommended sequence and necessary steps for the job (often =
the books tell you to do much more than is necessary) and especially a =
description of properly compressing the seal. I read that it shouldn’t =
be over-tightened as it will be no good and have to be replaced. I guess =
you’re supposed to stop just before that. Not very helpful.=20
Two other related questions. Do I need to replace the pads just because =
they are oil soaked? I have never used security wire before. What’s =
involved? Apparently I will need a new tool to do the twisting. What is =
it called, what size wire is it, and is it widely available? Thanks.
By the way, had a poor connection at the left side headlamp fuse. The =
effect was fun as the car winked at other cars on a random basis. At =
least it appeared random to me but you never know.
From: Kroppe kroppe@mich.com
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 14:03:11 -0500
Subject: Searchable Archives!?
Greetings all -
I just visited the a BMW enthusiast site:
http://cbsgi1.bu.edu/bmw/bmw.html
and they have a searchable archive of their mailing list. It has a
great search engine front end, and gives you a html list to pick from
when the engine presents the results. The end product is text with
highlighted subject, date, etc.
VERY easy to use.
Anyone have the skills and desire to start doing this with the
Jag-Lovers archives? I understand it could be a decent-sized task, but
the person who decides to do this would have my (and many others)
undying admiration and appreciation for their efforts.
B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6
p.s. I am not suggesting the archives be edited. We could just use the
existing header information (with all of the duplicates, and other
nasties included) to feed the search engine. This would reduce the
workload somewhat.
From: Victor Naumann jagdoc@erols.com
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 14:27:21 -0500
Subject: Re: ABS Brake Problem
Rod Farmer wrote:
ABS
I have the following problem with my Daimler Sovereign (Jag XJ40) 1988 model. As
I stop, the ABS system ‘works’. This happens at probably less than 1 m.p.h. .Just as the car finally pulls up, the ABS grinds away for a few seconds.
Can anyone save me from the ultimate fate? A trip to the MAIN DEALERS who are
incredibly expensive!!!Any ideas or sugestions will be welcome.
Try monitoring the sensors in pairs, both rear then both front and see
if one sensor produces a significantly different amount of AC voltage.
Sensors should have resistance of 600 to 1600 ohms I believe. This is a
particularly difficult system to diagnose even for dealers, no special
diagagnostic tools for Bosche system.
Regards, Vic
From: bcw6@cornell.edu (Braman Wing)
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 15:20:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Mk 2 Limited Slip ???
It sounds like you do indeed have the limited slip diff. The p-1 tag is
actually PL which stands for power-lock.
Regards,
Braman
1963 Mk2 3.8
1966 Land Rover 88"
From: stelzerb@prj.gecalsthom.com.au
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 7:41:45 +1000
Subject: Mk V owners.
I’m new to the Jag-Lovers posting, but I would like to get in contact with=20=
some=20
Mk V owners or at least with some people who are working on some of the ear=
lier=20
models. If I could get some help it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,=20
Ben Stelzer (Australia)
1949 Mk V.
From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 15:40:03 -0600
Subject: Re: Drive stub axle oil seal leak – 83 XJ6 S3
From: kchatman@mail.coin.missouri.edu To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Drive stub axle oil seal leak – 83 XJ6 S3
Date: Sunday, December 15, 1996 11:03 AM
When I bought my car, about 1 year ago, it had an
oil leak where the differential connects to the disk.
Thats a pretty involved place to develop a seal leak
Now the other side is leaking and I would like to try this
one myself. Last time I didn’t try the repair for two reasons.
First, the make and model was brand new to me and
second, the part about the compression seal threw me.
The seals for the stub axle are behind the rotor and can be difficult to
get to.
Anyway, I would appreciate a recommended sequence
and necessary steps for the job (often the books tell you
to do much more than is necessary) and especially a
description of properly compressing the seal. I read that
it shouldn’t be over-tightened as it will be no good and have
to be replaced. I guess you’re supposed to stop just before
that. Not very helpful.
I don’t know how you plan to go at the job… the way I recommend you do
it is by removing the entire rear sub-frame from the car. Once you do this
it would help if you had a large work bench about waist height to work
with the assembly. To get it out remove all hoses, fittings, and lines
associated with the sub-frame. Remove the bolts that hold the assembly in
place. be SURE if you use a floor jack that the sub-frame is BALANCED on
the jack… it is heavy. The differential alone weighs around a hundred
pounds, you should ideally have some more muscle to help you. I have had
the sub-frame out by myself in a number of Jags but I like to have help
when I can get it. Be careful not to put yourself in harms way if you do
it alone The lower control arms will have to be removed first. The exact
sequence to disassembly is up to you. The logical way will be evident once
you see it out of the car. Do use a torque wrench and follow the specs if
you can lay your hands on one.
One of the virtues of not trying to do it in the car is that your car is
aged somewhat and there are needle bearings and seals inside the pivot
points of the control arms that more than likely will need to be replaced.
You will also have a prime opportunity to inspect the whole thing and
evaluate the need for additional repairs, and any worn parts are much more
accessible this way. and once the assembly is ready to reinstall you will
have a more complete sense of having restored an entire part of the
drivetrain to a much better working condition. Don’t overlook the
u-joints.
Do I need to replace the pads just because they
are oil soaked?
Absolutely, they will have reduced braking friction and increased heat.
The surface of the pads will seperate and show cracks and the rotors can
develop hot spots that will appear as bluish raised areas. This would be a
good time to resurface the rotors also. The same thing can happen when
they are exposed to a brake fluid leak.
I have never used security wire before. What’s involved?
Apparently I will need a new tool to do the twisting.
The wire is to prevent a bolt that vibrates loose from backing all the way
out. because I have a wire feed welder in my shop I use the .030" wire
that the welder uses. A tool to twist the wire ends in not necessary, be
sure to use plenty of wire and one it’s threaded into all the holes for
the particular grouping of bolts try to leave a relatively loose ‘circle’
of it through the bolts, you don’t want the wire to be tight and
stretched. After its through all the holes cut each end to about 6 inches
long, hold the wires close to the bolts with needle nose and use vice
grips to clamp the other ends and twist them, then cut all but 3/4" to 1"
off. Be sure the end doesn’t interfer with any moving part. Use what was
in place before you cut the safety wire as a pattern for the new wire. If
you get worried about vibration and get a little worried about the whole
affair you can use either red or blue loctite on the threads just prior to
assembly. Be sure the threads are clean. Needless to say this is overkill,
but it does work. The red loctite can be a real pain for future removals,
it sets up very hard. The blue isn’t as bad.
If you must have the tool, Snap-On makes one and it’s not cheap. A tool
dealer that visits an airport will likely have one. I worked next to a guy
who bought the tool, in 1989 it was around $80.00 US
What is it called, what size wire is it, and is it widely
available? Thanks.
Any tough but malleable wire that will go through the hole will do. I
think .045" is the max size. You can get rolls of it at the home center or
a local hardware store. The .030" I use works nicely. Don’t use a hard
steel wire, its hard to work with and provides no additional benefits.
By the way, had a poor connection at the left side
headlamp fuse. The effect was fun as the car winked
at other cars on a random basis. At least it appeared
random to me but you never know.
If the other cars winked back you might be in business. A flitatious Jag!
This could have unknown ramifications.
Tim
“Cogito Ergo Lpomoea Batatas”
I think therefore I yam
From: Stiens@t-online.de (Peter Stiens)
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 22:13:32 -0800
Subject: Re: Searchable Archives!?
Kroppe wrote:
Greetings all -
I just visited the a BMW enthusiast site:
http://cbsgi1.bu.edu/bmw/bmw.html
and they have a searchable archive of their mailing list. It has a
great search engine front end, and gives you a html list to pick from
when the engine presents the results. The end product is text with
highlighted subject, date, etc.VERY easy to use.
Anyone have the skills and desire to start doing this with the
Jag-Lovers archives? I understand it could be a decent-sized task, but
the person who decides to do this would have my (and many others)
undying admiration and appreciation for their efforts.
hi,
i am a software-engineer and my job is to develope database search-engines.
we are just starting to develope internet-front-ends for our databases.
we work with foxpro, a very fast pc-based database.
so if you don’t hurry, i think i would be able to do it (let’ say in the
middle of 97) AND i would like to do it. as a member of J.A.G (Jaguar
Association Germany) i have to tell you, that i am just trying to convince
these guys, that things like that should be done.
hope we can do something for our jags
Peter Stiens
1967 Daimler Sovereign 420 LHD
Hopefully another jag in near future
From: LumpyJag@aol.com
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 17:18:20 -0500
Subject: Lower Ball Joint Info
I’m redoing the front end on my XJ6 and also encountered the fused plastic
situation. I used a conically shaped grinding tip on my 1/4 inch drill to
make a groove from bottom of the socket to the lip, gave it a tap with a
screwdriver, and it popped out. Probably due to tension relief.
Best of Luck
Chris Walker
Some day cruisin’ San Diego in my XJ6/350
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Date: 16 Dec 96 9:58:09
Subject: Disaster recovery
Due to a local glitch, I have been off e-mail since Thursday 0900 Z. Could
anyone who sent me something in the interval please re-send? :3+(
Thanks,
- -Jan
From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 01:42:52 +0100
Subject: RE: First letter.
Dear Sergey,
It was so nice hearing from you again.
How are things? I’m sure you will eventually get your job back even if
they did fire you for screwing your secretary on the chairman’s desk in
the middle of an important business meeting. I’m sure they will see your
point of view and realize that you’ve been under a lot of stress lately,
what with the embezzlement charges and everything. Sorry to hear that
you got the clap from that secretary, but not to worry, it’s nothing
that a good penicillin shot won’t cure. By the way, was she any good
<wink, wink>!?
Gotta go, let me know if you’ll need help with bail or anything!
Your pal, Gunnar.
[Note to the humor impaired: The above was ment to be sarcastic and
humorous, if you didn’t get it and instead got offended, please consider
seeing a good psychiatrist or a comedian. I do not know Sergey, it was
fiction and pure bullshit, not related to Sergey in any way, OK?]
Now Sergey, do you get it?
Gunnar
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar Sovereign 4.2
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | '73 Mercedes 280 (240D)
From: Sergey Leonidov[SMTP:74262.724@CompuServe.COM]
Sent: 15. desember 1996 06:38
To: Keith Hart; Jag Lovers List
Subject: Re: First letter.<<I believe this is private correspondence that should be sent privately,
not
to the entire membership of the Jaguar listserv! Regards…>>I beleive some people just care who they are conversing with, just for the
sake of knowledge. After all, I cannot call you Mr. V12 or Mr. L6. Or
maybe you prefer it. Hey you, there, whatcha call it, Mr. V12 Rebuilt
Alternator Green Paint Wired Caps Hella Fog Light Steering Wheel
Attchement, help me out here…Get it?
Sergey Leonidov
strike that
better yet:
No Jaguar Owned Only Interest VW Driver Red Paint Fabric Seats Fog Lights
No Mods Dirty Wheels Standard Steering Chipped Fog Light Squeeking Door
Lock No Jaguar Just Interested Have A Spare Alternator But No Jaguar Driver
From: “Jack Bednarski” jackb@epix.net
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 19:54:10 -0500
Subject: High Mileage/Low Milage Car
Rich Lewis asked, which was the better choice? This is a Zero sum game.
The market determines the price of the car. The ’ 94 6 cyl Conv has been
discounted in price to compensate for its’ high milage. Conversly the
older car has a premium on it because of the low milage. If I were to
choose I’d consider the ’ 91 if you could get the price down to $19,000.
Jack Bednarski
71 XKE V12
90 VDP
95 XJS 6.0L
From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 18:47:10 -0700 (MST)
Subject: A big XJ6 battery.
The battery in my SIII XJ6 was nearing the end of it’s life, so
I stopped in at Sears to get a replacement. The battery which was
originally in the car seemed small for the space, as did the little
500 CCA unit which the salesman attempted to sell me out of his
little reference book.
I said “It looks too small, let’s see if that big 700CCA one over
there will fit.” Unwilling to let them touch my car, I dropped
it in personally and that monster fit in there nice and snug like
it was designed to go there. The stock number is 36424 and it’s
not in their reference book as one which will fit an XJ6.
/\ Lawrence Buja http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern/
_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
________________Boulder,Colorado___80307-3000
From: MacLennan&Peirson camp@televar.com
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 96 18:00:07 -0800
Subject: FW: Disaster recovery
From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
Sent: Monday, December 16, 1996 9:58 AM
To: Jag-lovers Jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Disaster recovery
Due to a local glitch, I have been off e-mail since Thursday 0900 Z. Could
anyone who sent me something in the interval please re-send? :3+(
Thanks,
- -Jan
.Hello fr the us of a
Chuck Peirson
From: CEW slim@communityonline.net
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 18:43:22 -0800
Subject: Stake down for valves
I recently acquired a 1991 XJ40 Sovereign. I’ve read alot about the
valve problems and the “stake down” kit that it offered by the dealers.
I have 4 questions for you JAG experts (please be kind, I am a 1st time
Jag owner and a “back yard” mechanic):
I noticed that the motor makes a “faint, fine tuned sewing machine
clatter” at idle, and when I “step on it” the valves make a moderate
amount of clatter-noticeable by the drivers or passengers.
-
Is a stakedown kit for the valve followers still recommended for the
1991 models, or was the problem fixed in prior years. -
If it is still recommended, is it something that a shade tree
mechanic can do ? -
Did JAGUAR issue a service bulletin for this, thereby requiring the
dealers to install these stakedown kits for only the cost of the
parts? -
(Assuming # 3’s answer is “no”) If stakedown kit is available by
OEM sources, will a JAG dealer install it for me ??
Thanks for your expertise, I really enjoy reading the Email
CEW
From: Hugh Capper hughc@med.su.oz.au
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 14:50:12 +1100
Subject: Mk 2 Rattling windows
Dear Jaglovers,
Can somebody tell me how to stop the wind down windows of my Mk-2 Jaguar
from rattling? Is there some modern fix or am I just hopeless at setting
them up nice and tight?
best wishes,
hugh
From: “Stephen Stewart” SAPLSTEWART@msn.com
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 96 02:23:11 UT
Subject: RE: XJS Vibrations and HE intro date
Robert,
thanks for your reply to my problem
Re the “heart transplant”, the first H.E.'s were made in 1981 but not
available in Australia (or USA it seems) until 1983. Mine is a personal
import.
regards
Steve
Stephen,
It has been my experience that worn u-joints and or wheel bearings
result in more noise than vibrations. I would check the tires for
broken belts or the front suspension for worn bushings.
BTW - Did your vehicle have a heart transplant? To my knowledge the
first H.E.s appeared late '83 and '84…
Robert Woodling
'84 XJ-S H.E.
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 23:27:58 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Stake down for valves
I noticed that the motor makes a “faint, fine tuned sewing machine
clatter” at idle, and when I “step on it” the valves make a moderate
amount of clatter-noticeable by the drivers or passengers.
- Is a stakedown kit for the valve followers still recommended for the
1991 models, or was the problem fixed in prior years.
The stakedown is for the old XK engine… most notably the 4.2L late
model variant. Your car has a 4.0L AJ6 engine… a totally different
beast. There is no stakedown kit for it, it is not needed, and your description
of the noise does not match a loose tappet guide.
With the exception of the early head gasket poroblems, the AJ6 is a very
refined, modern, reliable engine. I would definately have this noise looked
in to… it is not normal. Are you sure the noise is out of the engine;
not one of the accessories?
CEW
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 23:37:24 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: ABS Brake Problem
Try monitoring the sensors in pairs, both rear then both front and see
if one sensor produces a significantly different amount of AC voltage.
Sensors should have resistance of 600 to 1600 ohms I believe. This is a
particularly difficult system to diagnose even for dealers, no special
diagagnostic tools for Bosche system.
Regards, Vic
Ah, but there is a good piece of hardware to help with diagnostics. It
is not a Jag specific piece. This is the AutoForce. It goes between the ECU
and the rest of the car. It allows you to monitor, and in most cases, modify,
all signals in and out of the ECU. It is a modular design meant primarily
for injection systems. They also have interfaces for ABS systems, Bosch
included. I have the box and interfaces for all Jags except the antique ( :> )
D-jet and newest (XK8).
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
From: border@shellx.best.com
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 22:12:01 +0000
Subject: Re: mk2 lower ball joint
Hello-
Wow, something that is easier on a Jaguar! It looks like the XJ40
lower ball joint just screws into the Mk2 stub axle carrier…
Almost, you have to pound out the old boot-retaining ring from the
upright. Easy enough to do though-
Ryan.
http://www.best.com/~border/pages/jag/jag.shtml
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 03:05:08 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: ABS Brake Problem
This is the AutoForce… I have the box and interfaces for all
Jags except the antique ( :> ) D-jet and newest (XK8).XJ-S included? (Digital P only, I presume)
This sounds like good stuff for the XJ-S book. More info would be
helpful – for example, just where would one look to acquire such a
critter?– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
I have the interface for P-Jet, yes. I believe, but am not positive, that
they also have one for D-Jet. There are interfaces made for just about
every injection system out there.
Alas, it is shop equipment, priced well out of the range of the home mechanic.
Also, it is not magic, it’s just a tool. Like an engine scope, it’s output
is useless unless you know how to read it. The best bet is to find a local
independent shop (likely to specialize in euro) that has one. The L-Jet
interface is almost universal, and the Bosch ABS only slightly less so. the
P-Jet and variants of AJ6 interfaces, being Jag specific in the US, will
be harder to find.
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #587
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Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #588
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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 17 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 588
Re: V12 noise
Heater control… theory of operation wanted…
Driveshaft
Re: Searchable Archives!?
Mechanic in Puget Sound area
'65 3.8 S-Type Access Panel for Trans.
Review: Jaguar Driver Technical Tips.
Sticking throttle
Re: Limited slip diffs
FS: Autobooks XK120, 140, 150, Mk7, 8, 9 wkshop manuals
Re: Mk V owners.
It wont run, XJS
[none]
Rear springs
Re: Sticking throttle (& why I love Jag-lovers)
Re: British licence plates
replacement tire for XJ-40s
XJS Surging Solution?
Re[2]: British licence plates
Re: replacement tire for XJ-40s
Re: XJS Surging Solution?
Re: It wont run, XJS
Just one review tonight
From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 1996 15:12:17 GMT
Subject: Re: V12 noise
In message 199612121229.NAA03345@turquoise.cray.com.cray.com mfl@kheops.cray.com (Matthias FOUQUET-LAPAR) writes:
When I fire up my V12 after it stood for some hours, it takes
a few seconds before the oil idiot light comes off and the
pressure dial goes up. Just before this happens, there is
a slight noise, hard to describe, I guess it’s the oil making
it all the way up to the top.
Mine takes about 1-2 seconds to do that. In very cold weather (below zero
Centigrade, that is) it sometimes made what sounded like a slight grinding
noise after starting up, but that lasted less then a second. It also used
to sound quite tappety for the first few minutes
Having moved out of London to the provinces where it’s colder I have put
Castrol Magnatec 10W-40 in for the winter. It does seem to make a difference,
the engine is quieter at startup and only sounds tappety for half a minute
now.
The above seems normal to me, but then I’ve only had the car for 2-1/2 years
and may not yet know all the quirks
Regards,
Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
'88 XJ-S V12, UK spec
From: David Covert davecove@microsoft.com
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 08:11:56 -0800
Subject: Heater control… theory of operation wanted…
I am in the final stages of the rebuild of my S1 XJ12. Last night I was
looking at the climate controls and found something I don’t
understand… I am hoping someone can fill in the gaps for me.
There are 3 vacuum control units behind and around the radio. One
controls the position of the flap for outside air, one controls the
heater valve (in some part) and the third is a two-pod affair bolted to
the firewall behind the radio. This last part is identifed as the
‘heater water valve contol’ unit. I understand the flap control… the
controller above the radio ‘leaks’ air into the line to reduce or
increase the vacuum supplied to the actuator in the engine bay. What I
don’t get is the operation of the other two controls.
At first look, it would seem that you could use the contol unit to the
right of the radio to control the heater valve in the same way you
control the flap. But that leaves the ‘heater water valve contol’ with
nothing to do. How does this part work with the simple dash board
control to regulate the heat? The part in question bolts to the firewall
behind the radio and has two ‘pods’. One of the pods has two hose
connections and the other pod has one hose connector.
Dave Covert
'73 S1 XJ12
From: dneufeld@sanac.usiu.edu
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 07:12:16 -0800
Subject: Driveshaft
For those of you who have disassembled the exhaust to do U-joints, besides the
center bearing, are there any other “good idea” things one should do while
everything is off and the driveshaft is out? Its an 87 XJ6 - thanks Don
From: Michael Neal mneal@wco.com
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 08:26:59 -0800
Subject: Re: Searchable Archives!?
Can we please reply at the top of message. I hate paging down trying to
spot the actual reply.
At 10:13 PM 12/15/96 -0800, Peter Stiens wrote:
Kroppe wrote:
Greetings all -
I just visited the a BMW enthusiast site:
http://cbsgi1.bu.edu/bmw/bmw.html
and they have a searchable archive of their mailing list. It has a
great search engine front end, and gives you a html list to pick from
when the engine presents the results. The end product is text with
highlighted subject, date, etc.VERY easy to use.
Anyone have the skills and desire to start doing this with the
Jag-Lovers archives? I understand it could be a decent-sized task, but
the person who decides to do this would have my (and many others)
undying admiration and appreciation for their efforts.hi,
i am a software-engineer and my job is to develope database search-engines.
we are just starting to develope internet-front-ends for our databases.
we work with foxpro, a very fast pc-based database.so if you don’t hurry, i think i would be able to do it (let’ say in the
middle of 97) AND i would like to do it. as a member of J.A.G (Jaguar
Association Germany) i have to tell you, that i am just trying to convince
these guys, that things like that should be done.hope we can do something for our jags
Peter Stiens
1967 Daimler Sovereign 420 LHD
Hopefully another jag in near future
From: Kevin.Campbell@vwr-inc.com
Date: Monday, 16 December 1996 9:12am PT
Subject: Mechanic in Puget Sound area
Whilst not wishing to incurr the anti-commercial wrath of the list, if anyone
is interested in hearing about a very good mechanic in the Seattle-ish area
mail me off list and I’ll pass on details.
From: John Toyofuku toyofuku@slip.net
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 14:31:03 -0800
Subject: '65 3.8 S-Type Access Panel for Trans.
I have a 65 3.8 S Type Jag currently partially restored (purchased from
PO that way). One of the parts not with the Jag is the access cover over
the transmission in the interior. I understand this is a fiberglass unit
that would be fairly large to fit over the hole currently over the
trans. One problem is this Jag was originally an automatic that was
converted to a stick and I believe, according to the PO the automatic
chassis has a larger opening than a stick would have had. The current
trans in the car is, I believe an original Jag standard trans of that
period; a 4 speed that is correctly described in the Jag manual for this
model.
I’ve been calling all around for this part to no avail. Looks like I’ll
have to get some fiberglass construction skills fast. Would anyone out
there have a photo of this particular part that I can get so that I can
get a feel for what it should look like? Also, if someone’s worked with
this part before, how does it attach to the body and how does the
gearshift boot connect?
Any information on this part would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 11:03:52 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Review: Jaguar Driver Technical Tips.
An essential book for Jaguar mechanics.
Below is a review of Jaguar Driver Technical Tips by Bob Bate. It’s
been a real mystery to me why this book has never been mentioned in
Jag-lovers. It’s an unbelieveable gold-mine of Jaguar information.
If anyone is cataloging the book reviews, please add it to the list with
a * indicating that it is a “must have”
/\ Lawrence Buja http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern/
_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
________________Boulder,Colorado___80307-3000
Jaguar Driver Technical Tips
Bob Bate
Technical Tips is a huge collection of tech articles published in the
Jaguar Driver Club magazine by a professional Jaguar mechanic. It is
about 500 pages long and covers an immense range of topics all related
to the real-world operation, diagnosis and repair of Jaguar automobiles.
Basically, this book is an incredible gold-mine of Jaguar information.
I won’t even attempt to catalog the hundreds of topics which are
covered. From Jaguar engines, drivetrains and suspensions, thru the
cooling, brake, and electrical systems, to the complexities of the
modern (pub 1990) climate control setup, just about anything you need to
know about your Jaguar is explained and dissected plainly and clearly.
The focus is primarily on the 60’s thru 80’s years, but the information
applies to almost the entire range of the postwar Jaguars. Sometimes an
item is simply explained, other times it’s introduced as a mystery: Our
customer drove her Jaguar into the shop with the following symptoms.
This is how we diagnosed the problem (sometimes going down the wrong
path) and this is how we fixed it.
I cannot recommend this book highly enough. Anyone considering working
on their own Jag MUST have this book. Anyone who doesn’t want to get
ripped off by a high-priced mechanic should get this book. Written in a
down-home style very similar to the posts on Jag-lovers, it adds whole
other dimension to the dry and all too often static descriptions given
in regular Jaguar repair manuals.
Unfortunately, I received the book as a gift and I don’t know of a US
publisher for this book. If anyone has a lead on it, please post it.
I’m sure you could order it thru the Jaguar Driver’s Club (I think
they’ve got a web page). This is the publishing information in the
front cover:
Jaguar Driver Technical Tips Bob Bate (1990)
R.G.Bate Publishing, 501 Cleveland St, Birkenhead, Merseyside England
From: Kevin.Campbell@vwr-inc.com
Date: Monday, 16 December 1996 10:08am PT
Subject: Sticking throttle
At last a tip!
I imagine this may happen on all vehicles, but apparently is particularly know
on XJ40’s. If when cruising at freeway speeds you back off the throttle
completely, then touch the accelerator pedal it may feel as if it has stuck.
What is happening is that the butterfly in the throttle body is sticking. On
many vehicles there is very little clearance between the bevelled edges of the
butterfly and the sides of the throttle throat. On any car where crankcase
pressure is recirculated through the air cleaner there is a tendancy for slimy
gunk to collect in the throttle. At higher RPM there is increased engine
vacuum which will tend to suck the butterfly closed sealing it in the gunk.
Remedy is either to adjust the clearance or clean out the throttle, apparently
this is something that ought to be done every 30,000 miles or so.
Kevin
From: “Lauren E. Pratt” pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 96 12:07:25 PST
Subject: Re: Limited slip diffs
Kirbert writes in part:
“Maybe not. The Power-Lok diffs used in Jags react to the amount of
torque applied to drive the wheels. As torque increases, it applies
pressure to a stack of friction disks, increasing restriction for
one wheel to turn relative to the other. However, with the car on
jackstands, the only restriction to such rotation is the preload on
that stack of disks. Anybody know how much torque it should require
to turn one wheel when unloaded?”
From what I have seen, a Jag LSR has enough preload that the wheels
can not be turned separately by hand. At least in a new or rebuilt unit.
This seems like the tires would be scuffing while making normal turns,
like in a parking lot. The question is how tight is too tight, and how
loose is too loose?
Anyone???
Cheers Lauren
Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 12/16/96
Time: 12:07:25 PM
This message was sent by Chameleon
From: Daren Stone Daren_Stone@ccm.sc.intel.com
Date: Sat, 14 Dec 96 10:36:00 PST
Subject: FS: Autobooks XK120, 140, 150, Mk7, 8, 9 wkshop manuals
Hello all,
I’ve recently ended up with two Autobooks Owner’s Workshop manuals
for XK120, 140, 150, and 1948-1961 Mk7, 8, & 9. As my brit-cars are of a
slightly different ilk (Riley, Lotus & A-H), although they make good
reading I really have no use for them.
If anyone is interested I am asking $15 ea. + shipping (from San
Jose, CA.), but I would prefer to trade for either the Miles Wilkins
Fiberglass repair book or a repair manual for the Volvo P1800ES.
Please reply directly as I am not on this list, and if it is after
12/18 please use “lookbusy@ix.netcom.com” as I will not be in the office
after that date. I hope you all have a happy & safe Holiday ~
daren
From: Marshall Hollister-Jones marshall@mentor.co.nz
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 07:38:25 +1300
Subject: Re: Mk V owners.
My Dad has a Mark V. I can ask him anything you need to know.
From: stelzerb@prj.gecalsthom.com.au
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Mk V owners.
Date: Monday, 16 December 1996 10:41
I’m new to the Jag-Lovers posting, but I would like to get in contact with
some
Mk V owners or at least with some people who are working on some of the
earlier
models. If I could get some help it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Ben Stelzer (Australia)
1949 Mk V.
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (Jim Isbell)
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 12:57:49 -0600 (CST)
Subject: It wont run, XJS
I overhauled the distributor and when I put it back a strange thing happened.
It will run for 11-15 seconds then shuts off. Then it cannot be restarted
until I wait 5 min and try again. Each time it runs for 11-15 seconds and
shuts off. Each time it cannot be restarted immediately and must wait a
while. Durring attempts at an imediate restart it just spins and wont even
kick on one cylinder, completly dead.
It runs fine for that 11 to 15 seconds, a little rough, but not so bad for a
cold engine, perfectly acceptable.
All I did was remove the distributor, replace the vacumme advance unit and
free up the centrifugal advance, remove and refurbish the amplifier to dist
cable at both ends, change oil and filter.
Maybe I knocked something loose?
JIM I.
“Prefiero morir de pie que vivir de rodillas.”
Gen. Emiliano Zapata
1879-1919
From: quicksilver@mindspring.com (John Hall)
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 19:32:38 GMT
Subject: [none]
I have an '83 with a stuck starter it spins but it won’t come out to crank
the engine. I figured I would take it out and grease the bearing since the
car has not been started since June. New England is already getting snow.
How hard is it to take out the starter and what tools does one need.
thanks in advance
John
From: ultrapak ultrapak@sprynet.com
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 13:02:38 -0800
Subject: Rear springs
I have a 1987 XJ6 with 100,000 miles. Does anybody know if it should be
time to change the rear springs. The car seems to sit low in the back.
what should the height be from the ground to the rear bumper.
Thanks;
Mike Bittner
ultrapak@sprynet.com
From: TVJohn2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 16:00:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Sticking throttle (& why I love Jag-lovers)
you wrote-
<< when cruising at freeway speeds you back off the throttle
completely, then touch the accelerator pedal it may feel as if it has stuck.
This has happened to me and I thoudgt it was cable hanging up. Thanks for
the tip.
-
- John '90XJ40
From: TVJohn2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 16:05:40 -0500
Subject: Re: British licence plates
Why don’t the British just sell “vanity” plates as the various US states do
and keep the revenue for the highway department?
From: TVJohn2@aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 16:29:28 -0500
Subject: replacement tire for XJ-40s
Having to replace the defective Pirellis which came on my ‘90 XJ40 @ 25,000
mi due to splitting side walls, and being a somewhat looney Californian (If
that’s not redundent), I managed to put some 235x60 15’s on the stock width
wheels. They filled the wheel wells quite nicely (actually they look totally
bitchin) and improved the ride quality, and 15,000 mi later they are wearing
fine. I also removed the rear spring spacers (non-level ride model) lowering
the rear ht. 1 3/4", torched the front springs (ol’ hot rod trick) to match
and the car looks much better. This is probably closer to Euro ride height
and may be too much if you start with a non-US car which I belive rides
higher normally.
Cross drilled rotors and bigger sway bars next (HBE’s are absurdely priced).
I know this is making some of you ill but I am often complimented on how nice
this black w/limo black windows and chrome wires, “ugly model” Jag looks.
happy holidays, John XJ40 ex: 150FHC, XJ6C, 3.8MKII
From: ehuff@tuba.aix.calpoly.edu (Earl D Huff)
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 13:45:34 -0800
Subject: XJS Surging Solution?
For months I have been trying to remedy the occasional twice-a-second surging
on my XJS. Although Kirby, Chad and others have been most helpful, the problem
persists. However, I MAY have now found the source of the problem. But, beforeI lay out over $150 I’d like to seek further group wisdom. Today I removed the
auxiliary air valve and tested it in boiling water as described in my Haynes
manual. The valve very s-l-o-w-l-y NEARLY closed, but after 5 minutes when I
blow through the valve air still freely passes.
2 Questions:
1. Can I assume the valve should be replaced after waiting that long
for it to completely close?
2. It it is bad, could that be the source of my problem.
I have spent untold hours and many $$$s on this problem so far. Any assistance
will be DEEPLY apreciated.
Earl Huff
XJS
XK120
From: mkenrick@golder.com (Michael Kenrick)
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 13:53:48 -0800
Subject: Re[2]: British licence plates
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Why don’t the British just sell “vanity” plates as the various US states
do and keep the revenue for the highway department?
It just wouldn't be cricket, old chap. I mean, after all, you couldn't
expect the powers that be in Whitehall -- all those stuffy bureaucrats
-- to condone such dubious activities as making an official
registration number into some kind of tasteless tabloid headline. And
just think how deviously inventive the cunning British mind would be at
hiding quite unacceptable allusions and cynical statements within those
innocent alphanumeric codes. NE1 410S ? Hardly.
No, it would never do, I'm afraid. It goes completely against their
nature to even acknowledge that such a thing occurs. Vanity, after
all, is one of the Seven Deadly Sins. They would much rather provide
money for roads through the tried and tested mechanism of taxation, --
with or without representation.
Unfortunately in America, this idea of supplementing tax dollars by
screwing the general public has been enshrined in acceptability through
the activities of local lawmen and their shameful enforcement of
ridiculously low speed limits on deserted roads. Just another aspect
of Americana that should preferably remain on the western side of The
Pond.
Michael Kenrick
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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 16:05:40 -0500
Message-ID: 961216160537_1787486011@emout03.mail.aol.com
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From: John Goodman 101547.1141@CompuServe.COM
Date: 16 Dec 96 18:07:41 EST
Subject: Re: replacement tire for XJ-40s
… I managed to put some 235x60 15’s on the stock width
wheels. They filled the wheel wells quite nicely <<
I would add that they give a VERY similar O/A dia. to the 205x70’s so
the speedo reads correct.
I found they worked well on my previous XJ-S with standard “starfish”
rims. In fact the steering response was better than with the 225x50x16’s
(on new rims) which replaced them.
John Goodman
'89 XJR-S 6.0L
From: John Goodman 101547.1141@CompuServe.COM
Date: 16 Dec 96 18:29:54 EST
Subject: Re: XJS Surging Solution?
Earl,
I have been trying to remedy the occasional twice-a-second surging
on my XJS. <<
I thought the air valve only controls cold idle speed.
Check the following first, as it won’t cost anything!
I had this problem on my previous car '88 XJ-S. It was the adjustment of
the TPS (throttle pot switch).
Mine would “surge” about twice a second at idle, or just off idle.
According to the voltmeter it was set correct, but, I found if I
slackened the TPS mounting screws and turned it slowly (don’t remember
if it’s L or R) with the engine running it would disappear. However, too
much and it would “surge” at around 1500- 2000 rpm so back it off a bit.
John Goodman
'89 XJR-S 6.0L
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 19:33:18 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: It wont run, XJS
It runs fine for that 11 to 15 seconds, a little rough, but not so bad for a
cold engine, perfectly acceptable.All I did was remove the distributor, replace the vacumme advance unit and
free up the centrifugal advance, remove and refurbish the amplifier to dist
cable at both ends, change oil and filter.Maybe I knocked something loose?
JIM I.
I would suspect the wire from the amp to the injection. Check all of the wires
coming out of the amp.
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 20:54:32 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Just one review tonight
Title: Jauar E-Type The Definitive History
Author: Philip Porter (forword by Briggs Cunningham)
Publisher: Automobile Quarterly (USA), Haynes (England) 1989
ISBN: 0 91503875 7
Format: Oversize, hardcover, 708 pages, about 1000 b&w photos, 100 color
This is the book. It is big, well written, fanatically researched, and
well illustrated. The book is what the title says: definitive.
The story of the E’s development, from the C-type and D-type to early
prototypes to the Geneva introduction is presented first. This section
includes many interesting quotes and anecdotes from Jaguar luminaries. The
text includes interesting results from early proving ground testing.
From this beginning, Porter continues with a good history of early E-Type
racing efforts, including the design and development of the lightweights.
The story continues with the evolution of the Type II and Type III cars, and
more racing anecdotes. Some interesting observations about the 2+2’s
development are included. Rare quotes add insight to the story.
The book concludes with a huge appendix, which includes specifications,
production figures, exports by country, and racing results.
The photos are truly comprehensive. Not only the familiar exterior shots,
but racing photos, factory styling studies, photos of Sayer’s wind tunnel
tests, factory shots, and cutawway views are included.
If you have an E-Type, long for an E-Type, or even if you are just a general
car buff, this book is a must have. There is no other source so complete,
authoritative, or well illustrated as this! Pricey, but well worth it (still
9 shopping days left!).
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #588
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jag-lovers-digest Tuesday, 17 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 589
ABS brake relay
Re: Stake down for valves
Re: Sticking throttle
S1 XJ Heater Control System
(no subject)
Mark 5 jag owner Digest#587
Write your own number plate
British number plates
Re:Mark 2 windows
XJ6 ser II gearbox
Differential oil – 83 XJ6 S3
Re: Sticking throttle
ubject: Re: Sticking throttle (& why I love Jag-lover
Re: Review: Jaguar Driver Technical Tips.
Rear End Vent
SOLD: Autobooks XK120, 140, 150, Mk7, 8, 9 wkshop manuals
Re: Review: Jaguar Driver Techni
XJ40 Maint books
Shocks for 1987 XJ-S
Re: Sticking throttle
Re: Review: Jaguar Driver Techni
From: Rod Farmer 100646.664@CompuServe.COM
Date: 16 Dec 96 20:54:35 EST
Subject: ABS brake relay
I have recently posted a problem with my ABS system operating for a few seconds
as the car comes to a stop. New pads and brake fluid have made no difference and
I have now been advised to check the over/under voltage ABS relay in the boot
(trunk) of my XJ40, as I could have a problem with the ‘valve dumping’ on
stoping as well as starting - the car is fairly new to me, so could anyone
advise on the exact location of said relay, how is access gained, is there a
quick check I can do, or is it a case of substituting another relay ? any other
ideas on the brake problem welcome- thanks to all.
Rod Farmer
From: Victor Naumann jagdoc@erols.com
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 20:54:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Stake down for valves
CEW wrote:
I noticed that the motor makes a “faint, fine tuned sewing machine
clatter” at idle, and when I “step on it” the valves make a moderate
amount of clatter-noticeable by the drivers or passengers.
- Is a stakedown kit for the valve followers still recommended for the
1991 models, or was the problem fixed in prior years.
NO , not for your engine. Only the previous design sometimes needed the
Stake Down Kit. Be glad you don’t have to do it. However if your valves
are noisy, you probably do need a valve adjustment. Have a compression
test done, or a leakdown test and if it passes, then just have a valve
Adj. done. If either test shows a problem, then it is time for the head
to come off to have everything checked.
Regards, Vic
From: Victor Naumann jagdoc@erols.com
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 21:01:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Sticking throttle
Kevin.Campbell@vwr-inc.com wrote:
At last a tip!
I imagine this may happen on all vehicles, but apparently is particularly know
on XJ40’s. If when cruising at freeway speeds you back off the throttle
completely, then touch the accelerator pedal it may feel as if it has stuck.Remedy is either to adjust the clearance or clean out the throttle, apparently
this is something that ought to be done every 30,000 miles or so.Kevin
Good advice to clean the throttle housing, not good to alter the factory
setting of .002 at the rear edge. This causes idle problems, especially
since the throttle is connected to the potentiometer for idle readings
to the ECU.
Regards, Vic
From: Fred Flinstone 105414.2066@CompuServe.COM
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 23:18:57 -0500
Subject: S1 XJ Heater Control System
There is a good description of the all-vacuum-controlled heating control
system of the S1 XJ 6 and 12 in the Haynes manual. Note, no wussy
mechanical or electrical switches here. Here goes the explanation:
You are correct about the fresh air inlet flap. The main vacuum line from
the engine compartment should come in behind the radio, and be split 3
ways. One line goes to the fresh air control valve, which is basically
“off” or “on”. One larger hose goes to the mystery “heater water valve
control” , also referred to as the “heater sensing unit”. This larger hose
connects to the large connector on the right hand pod (the one with two
connectors).
The third hose from the 3-way split goes to the rotary heater control
switch on the dashboard, to the bottom connector. Whew!
The rotary heater control switch top connector hose goes to the heater
sensing unit, on the left side pod (with 1 connector).
Okay, you have one connector left, on the right hand pod of the heater
sensing unit. This hose goes out to the engine bay and connects to the
actual heater water control valve located in your heater hoses.
How works? when you turn “on” the dashboard switch, you allow vacuum to go
to the heater sensing unit to the left hand pod. This acts as a
temprature controlled relay; it will open, allowing vacuum to pass through
the right hand pod from the large inlet hose to the smaller outlet hose,
which passes vacuum out to the actual heater water valve in the engine bay.
This valve is a “closed” valve; when it receves vacuum, it opens and
allows the water to circulate into the heater core.
What are the chances yours will work this way?? Slim at best…
The heater sensor units was designed to apparently turn on or off or
regulate the amount of vacuum going out to the water control valve,
depending on the temprature of the air in the system–the backside of this
unit is exposed to the air ducts through which the heated air circulates,
so it is supposed to be temprature sensitive. However, it may have quite a
different idea from yours about when it should be providing heat or not.
For better function, you may want to by-pass this sensing unit and hook the
dashboard switch up directly to the water control valve in the engine bay.
Finally, if you are restoring your car, note that over time these rubber
vacuum hoses will leak, and all should be replaced. The switches
themselves may leak, and that’s a bigger problem because you can’t find
replacements anywhere! If you need to by-pass the whole thing, send me a
note and I can further advise.
I should also point out that the main vacuum line coming into the car
should also pass through a specialized check valve–should be on the
firewall in the engine bay. This should lead to a vacuum tank located next
to the brake booster. The idea is that the engine vacuum is stored in the
vacuum tank, so there is still some vacuum in the system after you turn off
the car, to run the heater for X period of time.
Whew! Glad I could share this arcane knowledge with someone! Good luck
with the rebuild of your XJ12!
- –David Quintana
1971 XJ6
From: vorname.name@abteilung.x400.basf-ag.de
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 07:44:09 -0800
Subject: (no subject)
Please put my address to the jag lovers mailing list. It is not the one
above but:
karsten.eller@zak.x400.basf-ag.de
best regards
k. eller
From: Don Tracey dont@echuca.net.au
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 19:24:31 -0700
Subject: Mark 5 jag owner Digest#587
Ben
I have restored a mk5 Jag ,although it has not been assembled .I would
be happy to answer any questions that you may have.
Don Tracey Australia
Mk5 1950
Mk2 1959
Xk 150 1958
From: mkenrick@golder.com (Michael Kenrick)
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 22:11:51 -0800
Subject: Write your own number plate
And it just shows how wrong one can be. I said they'd never do it =
because it was distinctly un-British, and now look what they are =
planning (courtesy of the Electronic Telegraph, Tuesday 16 December =
1996: =
________________
=
Write your own number plate
By Roland Gribben, Business Editor =
=
A PICK-your-own-number-plate option will be offered to motorists tod=
ay =
by Sir George Young, the Transport Secretary, in an effort to reduce=
=
the August sales scramble.
=
American-style "vanity numbers" will be available with car owners ab=
le =
to choose up to six characters to provide something more personal to=
=
decorate their vehicles. It could open the way to variations on the =
theme of EWING 123 used in the television series Dallas to increase =
the already considerable sums of money produced for the Government =
from auctions of personalised plates.
=
Four options will be listed in a consultative document designed to =
canvass views on changing the annual prefix letter to meet motor =
industry grumbles that the August change is too costly and =
inefficient. The options are: an age-based system; a geographic =
system; a combination of the two; or individual numbers.
=
The age system would retain the characteristics of the existing pref=
ix =
which police say makes it easier to identify the age of a car. But t=
he =
prefix could be changed quarterly. Motor manufacturers favour =
quarterly changes to even out sales throughout the year and eliminat=
e =
the "August hump", which accounts for about 25 per cent of total =
sales. =
=
Manufacturers want the Government to move quickly but, with the =
consultation period planned to be spread over three months, any =
decisions will be postponed until after the election. Stricter rules=
=
are also planned to standardise the type used on number plates.
=
The Driver and Vehicle Licensing Agency was quick to recognise the =
huge demand for personalised number plates and has raised a great de=
al =
of revenue by selling off distinctive numbers. According to the =
Guinness Book of Records, K1 NGS was the most expensive, fetching =
=A3231,000 at Christie's in 1993. But the permutations are almost =
endless: L1 ONS, P1 LOT, B1 GUM, B1 ECK, B1 NGO, have all been snapp=
ed =
up in recent sales.
______________
=
Michael Kenrick, eating humble pie.
From: brownd@filon.ml.com (Dave Brown - London Dev X1818)
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 96 11:22:51 GMT
Subject: British number plates
Given the recent interest in our quaint registration number system, I though
this article in the Electronic Telegraph (http://www.telegraph.co.uk) might be
of interest:
A PICK-your-own-number-plate option will be offered
to motorists today by Sir George Young, the Transport
Secretary, in an effort to reduce the August sales scramble.
American-style “vanity numbers” will be available with car owners able to
choose up to six characters to provide something more personal to decorate
their
vehicles. It could open the way to variations on the theme of EWING 123 used
in the television series Dallas to increase the already considerable sums of
money produced for the Government from auctions of personalised plates.Four options will be listed in a consultative document designed to canvass
views on changing the annual prefix letter to meet motor industry grumbles that
the August change is too costly and inefficient. The options are: an age-based
system; a geographic system; a combination of the two; or individual numbers.The age system would retain the characteristics of the existing prefix which
police say makes it easier to identify the age of a car. But the prefix could
be
changed quarterly. Motor manufacturers favour quarterly changes to even out
sales throughout the year and eliminate the “August hump”, which accounts for
about 25 per cent of total sales.Manufacturers want the Government to move quickly but, with the consultation
period planned to be spread over three months, any decisions will be postponed
until after the election. Stricter rules are also planned to standardise the
type used on number plates.The Driver and Vehicle Licensing Agency was quick to
recognise the huge demand for personalised number plates
and has raised a great deal of revenue by selling off distinctive numbers.
According to the Guinness Book of Records, K1 NGS was the most expensive,
fetching 231,000 at Christie’s in 1993. But the permutations are almost
endless: L1 ONS, P1 LOT, B1 GUM, B1 ECK, B1 NGO, have all been snapped
up in recent sales.
David Brown, Merrill Lynch
brownd@ml.com
///_/_/_/_/////_///______
/_/_//_/_/_/_/_/____
/_/_/_/_/______/_/_/_/______
/_/_/_/_/_/_/________/_/_____
___/_/_/////_/_/_/_/_/______
/_/___/_/_//_/_/_/____
///_/_/_/____/////_///_________
From: Don Tracey dont@echuca.net.au
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 20:17:01 -0700
Subject: Re:Mark 2 windows
From: Hugh Capper hughc@med.su.oz.au
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 14:50:12 +1100
Subject: Mk 2 Rattling windowsDear Jaglovers,
Can somebody tell me how to stop the wind down windows of my Mk-2 Jaguar
from rattling? Is there some modern fix or am I just hopeless at setting
them up nice and tight?
best wishes,
hugh
Hugh, I have a Mk2 and have done the windows ,from memory there are only
two places that rattle . The glass in the frame which can be fixed by
putting new felt in the channel,and the bottom of the vertical
channeling where it bolts about half way down the door itself ,mine had
wooden packing pieces which had rotted out and only require replacing
with spacers of a suitable thickness . I used steel washers but a piece
of wood would do.Hope this is of help.
Don Tracey Australia
59 Mk 2 (in bits)
50 Mk5 (in bits)
58 Xk150 (in bits) (sigh and another year nearly
gone)
From: “Arnold, Dr. Dave” davearno@sandton.senchem.co.za
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 14:03:14 +0200
Subject: XJ6 ser II gearbox
Dear Jag-lovers,
My run of good luck seems to be over. Can anyone lift the dark cloud
that hangs over me? My standard BW auto box on my 1980 XJ6L ser II has
developed a problem. A few months ago I noticed that occasionally, when
shifting into drive or reverse, there was a definite “clunk” coming from
the transmission which jolted the whole car. On Saturday, things took a
turn for the worse when I could only get first to second at about 3000
rpm, from a cold start, and no third. BUT, after a few minutes when
things were warming up, all back to normal! This I repeated on Sunday
and today. Please guys tell me it’s a cheap fix. Can anyone give a
shot at what’s going on?
Dave lurking down in the dumps.
80 XJ6 II
47 Mk IV
67 S type
Bank overdraft
Kids to support
Please help
God bless.
Regards
Dave Arnold
From: Kyle Chatman kchatman@mail.coin.missouri.edu
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 07:10:13 -0600
Subject: Differential oil – 83 XJ6 S3
I wrote a few days ago about an stub axle oil seal leak. Well, it dawned =
on me that I had used a Valvoline blended gear oil (synthetic and =
petroleum) and some people report engine leaks with synthetics. So I =
thought that I would switch to a full petroleum product. What the heck, =
try the cheap and easy first. I go to the Maintenance Handbook and find =
that I need 1.6 quarts of MIL-L-2105B 90 wt. Can’t find it. Do find =
2105D. Does anyone know if these specifications increment like engine =
oil codes so that D would satisfy B? I know this sounds obvious but MIL =
is an abbreviation for military and I’m not making any assumptions about =
logic and the military. Also, I put in nearly 2 quarts, not 1.6, and the =
old oil, at 5K miles use, was much darker than I imagined that it should =
be (like about 3K miles on engine oil). Should I be concerned?
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Mon, 16 Dec 1996 22:27:26 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Sticking throttle
At last a tip!
I imagine this may happen on all vehicles, but apparently is particularly know
on XJ40’s. If when cruising at freeway speeds you back off the throttle
completely, then touch the accelerator pedal it may feel as if it has stuck.What is happening is that the butterfly in the throttle body is sticking. On
many vehicles there is very little clearance between the bevelled edges of the
butterfly and the sides of the throttle throat. On any car where crankcase
pressure is recirculated through the air cleaner there is a tendancy for slimy
gunk to collect in the throttle. At higher RPM there is increased engine
vacuum which will tend to suck the butterfly closed sealing it in the gunk.
Actually, the XJ40 is one of the better cars as far as this goes. Jaguar
and Fiat/Lancia are the only cars I know with a heater on the engine
breather to help this problem. What happens is this. The engine breather is
plumbed in upstream of the butterfly. The fumes from the breather are
carrying oil and combustion vapors. When this stuff attempts to past the
butterfly in the mostly closed state, the pressure (and hence temperature)
drop causes the fumes to condense out of the air stream… sticking to the
walls of the throttle housing right around the butterfly… a petroleum
snow storm.
As an aside, this buildup can cause really weird problems on cars with
automatic IACs (idle speed control). The gunk will restrict the air flow
through the butterfly, forcing the IAC to open farther to mantain a
proper idle speed. On some cars, you end up with the IAC operating well
outside it’s designed range… resulting in a major ring/hunt. Killer
surging.
Oh, and since the butterfly is plugged, all of the air, and breather fumes,
pass through the IAC. The snowstorm happens in the IAC, ruining it.
Remedy is either to adjust the clearance or clean out the throttle, apparently
this is something that ought to be done every 30,000 miles or so.
Do NOT adjust the throttle stop! Clean the gunk out. 30K is about right for
a XJ40. Every 15K or less on cars without a heater… BMW, Volvo, Honda, etc.
etc. etc.
Or… there is a way to keep the gunk from building up… alluded to above.
Don’t operate the car with the throttle mostly closed. Keep yer foot in it.
Kevin
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
From: paul r martin martinpr@secis.com
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 11:29:23 -0800
Subject: ubject: Re: Sticking throttle (& why I love Jag-lover
My 94 vp 32k miles had this problem . Last week I had the 30k service
they cleaned the gunk you refered to and it is well. I also had them
replace the front tires with new p4000. I can not belive the change
in the drive. Is this the tires are some thing in the service? It seems
much tighter and I love it.
From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 09:48:15 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Re: Review: Jaguar Driver Technical Tips.
Various people have written…
{This book sounds like just the ticket for my own Christmas present to
{myself this year!
{
{Is there an ISBN number on the cover somewhere?
No, I can’t find an ISBN number on it anywhere.
/\ Lawrence Buja http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern
_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
________________Boulder,Colorado___80307-3000
From: Bob Shipley bshipley@mail.tds.net
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 12:09:32 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Rear End Vent
This past Saturday, I was having new rear shock absorbers installed on my 88
H & E XJ-S. Since the mechanic was already under the rear of the car, I ask
that he check the oil level in the rear end. He said that when he pulled the
plug, that there was pressure build up in the rear end. The mechanic that I
use for some of my repairs is excellant, but has not had very much
experience working on Jags. He said that about all of the American cars
that he works on has a vent on the rear end. We thought that we may have a
“plugged” vent on the rear of my car, but we could find no vent. Is the
rear end vented on this car?
Also, a interesting tidbit. This same mechanic told me that he had
installed a Lucas ignition amplifier on a XJ. He dis-assembled the old
amplifier (also marked Lucas) to find that it was an off the shelve GM
amplifier that sells for about $20.00
From: Daren Stone Daren_Stone@ccm.sc.intel.com
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 96 10:21:00 PST
Subject: SOLD: Autobooks XK120, 140, 150, Mk7, 8, 9 wkshop manuals
- ---------------------------- Forwarded with Changes ---------------------------
From: Daren Stone at RNBCCM30
Date: 12/14/96 10:36AM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no at Internet_Gateway
Subject: FS: Autobooks XK120, 140, 150, Mk7, 8, 9 wkshop manuals
Thanks to all (two !) people who responded to the books for sale, as
they have been sold.
~ daren
From: Kevin.Campbell@vwr-inc.com
Date: Tuesday, 17 December 1996 11:02am PT
Subject: Re: Review: Jaguar Driver Techni
For what it’s worth I can find no listing at www.amazon.com, who claim to have
access to “1 Million Titles”. Given that the publisher is also the author I
suspect it might be a “vanity press” project and therefore very tough to find.
From: clay slim@communityonline.net
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 11:16:34 -0800
Subject: XJ40 Maint books
Has anyone found a “reasonable” aftermarket maintenance manual for the
1991 XJ40 (sovereign). The dealers want $600 for the 5 volume set (OEM
priced at $375).
No Haynes or other manual I’ve found covers later than mid 80’s.
Any help? If I HAVE to buy the JAGUAR OEM for $375 – is it worth it for
a “DIY” mechanic who will do most everything except Internal engine,
Transmission or ABS systems ?
Thanks
From: Thomas Alberts talberts@aero.odu.edu
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 14:37:27 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Shocks for 1987 XJ-S
I am thinking of replacing all 6 shocks on my 1987 XJ-S.
The car has 140k on it, and 60k of that I put on myself.
I am guessing that the shocks have 90k minimum and probably
140k on them. I hear a clunk sound on sharp bumps ocassionally
which I think could be the shocks. I’ve been getting uneven
front tire wear in spite of repeated alignments. I don’t
see any oil leaking out of them, but the shock mounts look
extremely old and worn.
Welsh has all 6 shocks in the Woodhead brand name for $188.
I understand that this is a “budget” replacement for the
originals. Hal Rogers tells me this is a good price, but
indicates that I may be disappointed in the performance of
these.
Hal can sell me a set of 6 Boge shocks for $333.
SICP says they are out of stock on any brand shock for
my car!
Would anyone car to offer some informed advice on 1.) whether
I ought to be replacing these shocks, and 2.) if yes, then
is it worth it to go Boge, or 3.) do you recommend other
brands and why?
Thomas E. Alberts
From: TVJohn2@aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 14:42:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Sticking throttle
OK - how does one clean it???
From: “Patrick Fitzhorn” patrick@engr.colostate.edu
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 13:44:48 +0000
Subject: Re: Review: Jaguar Driver Techni
Kevin.Campbell wrote:
For what it’s worth I can find no listing at www.amazon.com, who claim to have
access to “1 Million Titles”. Given that the publisher is also the author I
suspect it might be a “vanity press” project and therefore very tough to find.
Not sure if this is what’s being discussed, but my Netscape
browser hits a large, virtual bookstore at http://www.amazon.com/
The more complete address for this bookseller is:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/subst/index2.html
They advertise that one can “search 1 million titles,” and there are
other interesting advertising come-on’s too. I’ve not ordered
from them, nor have I heard from anyone who has, so caveat
emptor or vini vidi visa or some such latin phrase!
Patrick A. Fitzhorn ! “There is no unsophisticated engineering left,
Mechanical Engineering ! or at least there shouldn’t be!”
Colorado State University ! Gordon Glegg
Fort Collins, CO 80523 !
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #589
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X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest
jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 18 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 590
Re: Differential OIl-- 83 xj6S3
Mk V Paint.
Re: 1 to 3 wire 02 sensor change
Re: Toward Better Brake Lights
Re: XJS Surging Solution?
XJ Rears and Water Pump
Re: Sticking throttle
Steering rack bushings
JAGUAR CHAT ROOM??
Amazon.com
Used XJ40 radio source?
Re: Rear End Vent
Re: XJS Surging Solution?
XK- Fuel tanks- alternative
re-chrome plastic parts
Disaster recovery II
Fellowship of the Big Cat
RE: your fluid leak at booster/master cylinder
Mil L 2105 oil
RE: Sticking throttle
Re: Fellowship of the Big Cat
brushed nylon and plastic
Re: Sticking throttle
From: theo bremner tbremner@lynx.dac.neu.edu
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 15:50:26 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Differential OIl-- 83 xj6S3
Kyle,
I looked up in a military standard handbook and there is no spec
MIL-L-2105 anything the closest thing is MIL-PRF-2105F. The F is the
revision of the spec and changes anytime there is a change to the spec
and they start at a then go down the alphabet so the D you found will
surpass the B. In most cases the changes can be as minor as a misprint in
the final release and cause it to have to be rereleased. This is the
convention the military uses in its specs and suprisingly to most it
most it follows some logic. I happen to work at a plant where we
do Aerospace work and we have to deal with Mil Specs a lot and this
seems to be there convention.
Hope this helps
Later
Theo
tbremner@lynx.neu.edu
From: stelzerb@prj.gecalsthom.com.au
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 7:50:16 +1000
Subject: Mk V Paint.
I am getting ready to put the paint on my Mk V and have a couple of questio=
ns.
Firstly I intend to paint the car old English White but can’t find any=20
information on how to mix the paint. Is there a substitute colour which is=20=
good=20
enough.
Secondly what should I do with the beading that runs between the body and t=
he=20
guards ? Should I assemble the whole thing and paint over the beading, or f=
it,=20
dismantle, paint and re-assemble without painting the beading ? My initial=20
thought is to paint things separately and assemble leaving the black (or wh=
ite)=20
beading unpainted.
Can anyone shed some light on these matters.
Thanks.
Ben Stelzer.
1949 Mk V.
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 17:02:25 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: 1 to 3 wire 02 sensor change
On Sat, 14 Dec 1996, Kirbert wrote:
Here’s a question: Will switching to the faster-heating O2 sensor
actually cause the EFI to enter closed-loop mode sooner? It would
Gee, I thought that factors like coolant temperature tell the ECU to
invoke closed loop mode, and that O2 sensor readings are used to provide
feedback control. There are other signals that likewise tell the ECU to
‘forget about’ closed loop, like vacuum or throttle switch enrichment
signal, or shifting into Park or Neutral.
John
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 17:06:34 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Toward Better Brake Lights
On Sat, 14 Dec 1996, Kirbert wrote:
Right off the bat, I’d have to say that if someone offered a retrofit
to install LED brake lights into my cars, I’d be tempted. Anything
to help keep the idiot tailgating me from rearranging my rear bumper!
I’ve seen 18 wheelers retrofitted with LED’s. On top of the benefits you
cited, they also produce a ‘redder’ light. The units I’ve seen replace
the generic round truck tail light assemblies.
It shouldn’t be too hard to create a PCB with a series of LEDs, ballast
resistor and bayonet base to fit into a given cars tail lights.
John
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 18:14:02 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJS Surging Solution?
I had a severe surging problem once on my XJ-S. One O2 sensor had a flaky
connection.
John
On 16 Dec 1996, John Goodman wrote:
Earl,
I have been trying to remedy the occasional twice-a-second surging
on my XJS. <<
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 18:57:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: XJ Rears and Water Pump
XJ Rears:
A while ago a thread considered the ways in which the XJ rear cage could
be modified: removing strut rods, and so on. You observed that one might
be better off leaving the strut rods intact and adding a low, centered
link between the center of the car and the bottom of the cage. This would
prevent the cage maounts from tearing from abuse while preserving handling
qualities.
Questions:
-
Could this link run from the bottom of the cage to the rear of the
car? Seems like there is more room. -
The XK8 has a different cage but the same idea. Instead of the
struts, a triangular piece is mounted from where the struts would connect
to the floor pan to the center of the cage. Neglecting exhaust
pipe/muffler interference, would this work on our XJs? Would the
elimination of the struts eliminate the rear steer? (For good photos of
the XJ8 rear, see the current issue of Jaguar World.)
Water Pumps:
Also a while ago, you pointed out that a non-Jaguar impeller might
actually improve the efficiency of the stock water pump. You might even
have adapted a Chevy impeller to your Jag pump. Summit sells an aluminum
thingie (just a disk and a handful of rivets) that is supposed to improve
water pump efficiency – you rivet it to the back of the impeller.
Questions:
-
Is this idea sound?
-
Would this help the V12?
-
Summit does not list a Jag application; would the Chevy disk fit?
(Yes, this is easily fabricated but it is only something like 5 bucks.)
Thanks,
John
From: cobac@ix.netcom.com
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 16:21:50 -0800
Subject: Re: Sticking throttle
At 02:42 PM 12/17/96 -0500, you wrote:
OK - how does one clean it???
And also, where exactly is it located and how do you expose it??
From: “Russert, Steven W” Steven.Russert@PSS.boeing.com
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 16:26:16 -0800
Subject: Steering rack bushings
I have purchased aftermarket steering rack bushings for my '82 XJ6, and
am (nearly) ready to attack the installation. I have a few questions
first.
Is it necessary to unmount the upper and lower steering shaft in order
to
lower the steering rack so that the bushings can be replaced? My manual
(Haynes) seems to indicate it, but I, of course, want to avoid any labor
I
can… Is there a procedure in the archives? (I have searched up
through May,
but it is a little slow going). The manual mentions a special tool. As
far
as I can tell by reading the procedure and looking at the drawing, the
purpose of the tool is to get the steering centered. Seems like one
could accomplish the same thing by taking measurements of where the
tierod ends are relative to a reference point on the rack, then making
sure
it is back in the same place before connecting the steering column. Am
I dreaming?
Please reply to me as well as the list, as I only receive digests
Thanks,
Steve Russert
Boeing ISS R&T
Phone (206)865-3588
FAX (206)865-2965
e-mail steven.w.russert@boeing.com
From: cobac@ix.netcom.com
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 16:28:44 -0800
Subject: JAGUAR CHAT ROOM??
Hi everybody,
Just started exploring the Chat rooms (IRC and AOL), but I can’t find
any rooms related to Jaguars (or really any other foreign car). I tried the
AOL Car Chat and all I got was replys that foreign cars suck, not true at
all, and some replys from BMW owners.
So, anybody know of a chat room where Jaguars are discussed?? If
not, (not sure how to), maybe we can create a Jag-Lovers chat room on the
IRC (?). This would allow anyone to go and chat for a while about the cars
that we all love. It would also help when some of us are online at the same
time and would like to discuss something, but we must always send E-mail
back and forth. Any opinions, would love to see someone create an area for
the Jag-lovers!
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 19:29:38 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Amazon.com
I thought everyone had heard about www.amazon.com. They are reputed to be
the largest bookstore on the web. True or no, they have a very large
selection available. There is a decent search engine provided to allow you
to rapidly locate what you are looking for. It is also possible to post your
book reviews on their web site.
I have found that they have a lot of what I am looking for, although they
don’t carry non-North American publishers. They will NOT do special orders,
so don’t waste the E-Mail: everything they sell is on-line, period.
I have placed orders with them, and found them to be prompt, competent and
helpful. When doing large orders, it is cheapest to request that the entire
order be shipped at once. While this may delay receipt if there are delays
getting a particular title, it saves considerably on shipping costs. They
will inform you via e-mail of progress as your order is assembled.
Security is via the Netscape commercial server software. This is the one
that displays the little ‘key’ in the lower left corner of the Netscape
browser. I have completed a couple of credit card purchases with them, with
no bad experiences.
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
Patrick Fitzhorn wrote:
Not sure if this is what’s being discussed, but my Netscape
browser hits a large, virtual bookstore at http://www.amazon.com/
The more complete address for this bookseller is:
They advertise that one can “search 1 million titles,” and there are
other interesting advertising come-on’s too. I’ve not ordered
from them, nor have I heard from anyone who has, so caveat
emptor or vini vidi visa or some such latin phrase!
From: cobac@ix.netcom.com
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 16:32:06 -0800
Subject: Used XJ40 radio source?
Anybody know of a wreck-yard or anywhere else that sells used Jag radio’s?
Tapes won’t play in my 89 XJ40, so of course repair would be around $100, if
its repairable. I would like to buy the '91 ALpine radio and spend the
extra money for it instead of repair, possibly. Anyone ever buy this type
of radio used, if so, about how much would it be?
Thanks,
Eric
From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 20:27:56 -0005
Subject: Re: Rear End Vent
This past Saturday, I was having new rear shock absorbers
installed on my 88 H & E XJ-S… We thought that we may have a
“plugged” vent on the rear of my car, but we could find no vent.
Is the rear end vented on this car?
There’s a vent on my '83! It’s obvious – a 90 degree fitting with a
tube pointing upward.
– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate
From: John Goodman 101547.1141@CompuServe.COM
Date: 17 Dec 96 20:23:57 EST
Subject: Re: XJS Surging Solution?
John Napoli wrote:
<< I had a severe surging problem once on my XJ-S. One O2 sensor had a
flaky connection. >>
That’s a good few flaky connections less for us UK owners to worry about
at least !.
I think my previously reported intermittent fault is with the power amp
(very expensive Jaguar Sport Lucas part), after many hours cleaning
and tightening all the engine bay connectors and replacing all sensors,
coil, distributor cap.
John Goodman
'89 XJR-S 6.0L
From: REMANKING@aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 20:45:15 -0500
Subject: XK- Fuel tanks- alternative
I’ve been reading the thread about saving rusted XK gas tanks and would like
to add a comment. If the the tank is rusted the a better way to go for not
more money is to just buy a new one. $300 was mentioned as a repair cost,
for this money you can get a repro. For a little more you can go with an
alloy tank and never worry about rust again. I picked up and alloy tank from
Coventry Auto in the UK. and it cost me about $455 with new Smiths pickup.
It was one of the better investments I made as it is trouble free, looks
great. Though not totally “original” looking when it is all polished up you
could paint it black and nobody would know the difference. A fuel tank
really does have a useful life and all the “treatments” mention will extend
it somewhat but not renew it. Just my 2 cents.
From: “larry doyon@penn.com” leap4l@penn.com
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 20:53:40 -0500 (EST)
Subject: re-chrome plastic parts
Has anyone had experience with re-chroming plastic parts such as headlight
surrounds
or upper grille of xjs.Any company better than another.
thanks.
larryd
85xjs-he.
From: “Jan Wikstr�m” 104707.3644@CompuServe.COM
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 20:59:56 -0500
Subject: Disaster recovery II
Apologies to all; when my accidentally deleted E-mail address was
reinstated, it still didn’t work. I have accordingly moved my important
E-mail (private stuff, that is) to Compuserve, at the return address of
this message. Anyone wishing to send something off-list, please take note.
All who sent me off-list mail since last Thursday, may I please (humbly)
ask you to re-send again, to this address. I’m re-subscribed and back on
deck; again, apologies to Nick and all.
- -Jan
From: “Jan Wikstr�m” 104707.3644@CompuServe.COM
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 21:00:11 -0500
Subject: Fellowship of the Big Cat
By way of an interesting little informal study in sociology, I have now for
two months greeted all Jaguar drivers I meet on the road. Out of the grand
total of 330 (lots of Jags in the North of Sydney), one (1) responded, and
he looked awfully surprised.
So what conclusions do we draw?
a. They’re not really Jag-lovers, just a bunch of prestige seekers.
b. Jag drivers are so uptight about malicious damage that they don’t see
any car out of striking range
c. Jag drivers are so totally absorbed in their pleasure that they don’t
see anything
d. I don’t know the secret hand-sign of the Fellowship of the Big Cat…
From: Mike Everatt meveratt@Direct.CA
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 1996 20:42:19 -0800
Subject: RE: your fluid leak at booster/master cylinder
Randy,
Reminds me of a similar brake fluid leak I asked about a while ago. A =
good friend suggested I check the rubber seal on the reservoir cap. =
Laughing, I said “of course I checked it” … then I checked it again. =
Turns out the seal was “grooved” from overtightening. I flipped the seal =
over, and VOILA – no more leak.
The fluid, being clear, had been running down from the leaking cap, and =
was virtually invisible on the shiny plastic reservoir. Moral – ALWAYS =
check the obvious.=20
Mike Everatt
1987 XJ40
From: Randy Wilson[SMTP:randy@taylor.infi.net]
Sent: Thursday, December 12, 1996 11:10 AM
To: jag
Subject: Re: your fluid leak at booster/master cylinder
Sorry to give you the bad news/good news, but yes, the leak is coming
from the mastercylinder and NO amount of tightening the mounting bolts
will stop the leak. You will probably notice your rear brakes becoming
less effective VERY shortly, and it is a dangerous situation to ignore.
Plus, the damage the leak can do to from brake fluid being sucked into
the booster can lead to other major complications.I’ve rebuilt over thirty of these cylinders, always used the rebuild =
kit
from NAPA auto parts in the US, and I have never had a failure. The
rebuild kit is about $20.00 US, and the only special tool you’ll need =
is
a very small cylinder hone and about 2 hours start to finish. I’ve =
even
used 800 grit emory paper wrapped around a pencil when the hone wasn’t
available. Do it now!! Jerry
Good information for owners of a Chevy. But we’re talking XJ40 here.
Fluid leaks around the master are not necessarily a failed piston seal.
The rear piston, the only one that could leak externally, drives the =
FRONT=20
brakes.
Leaking brake fluid can not be sucked into the booster. XJ40’s do not =
use
a vacuum booster.
I’ve seen less than 10 master failures on these cars in the last eight
years. Yet you’ve done 30?
Eric, check under the rubber seals where the reservoir attaches to the
side of the master. this is THE common leak point. The official fix is =
a “reserevoir kit”. Believe it or not, this is cheaper than the Jag
master cylinder kit… which includes new pistons. If you can find an
aftermarket kit that includes the reservoir seals, that would be the way
to go.
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
From: Richard Griffiths 73564.2101@CompuServe.COM
Date: 17 Dec 96 21:44:39 EST
Subject: Mil L 2105 oil
Kyle
Mil L 2105 is a military spec. for gear lube oil.
Version D is simply a later revision than B (wouldn’t be surprised if there
isn’t even a later one ). so if 90 wt. oil is still included, it will be ok.
I go to the Maintenance Handbook and find =
that I need 1.6 quarts of MIL-L-2105B 90 wt. Can’t find it. Do find =
2105D. Does anyone know if these specifications increment like engine =
oil codes so that D would satisfy B?<<<
Richard Griffiths
From: Mike Everatt meveratt@Direct.CA
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 18:43:09 -0800
Subject: RE: Sticking throttle
Randy,
What would you recommend to clean it? One of these spray-in throttle =
cleaners, or???=20
I have had the infamous “surging”, and stumbling problem for quite some =
time. Just last week, I disconnected the TPS. The idle speed went up, =
but no more surging, except when really cold! I adjusted the idle speed =
down with the air valve hex screw, and still no surging, and no =
stumbling at all. The TPS seems to be smooth throughout its range - =
according to my ohmmeter. Any ideas if I’m getting close?
Mike Everatt
1987 XJ40
From: Randy Wilson[SMTP:randy@taylor.infi.net]
Sent: Monday, December 16, 1996 2:27 PM
To: jag
Subject: Re: Sticking throttle
At last a tip!
I imagine this may happen on all vehicles, but apparently is =
particularly know
on XJ40’s. If when cruising at freeway speeds you back off the throttle
completely, then touch the accelerator pedal it may feel as if it has =
stuck.What is happening is that the butterfly in the throttle body is =
sticking. On
many vehicles there is very little clearance between the bevelled edges =
of the
butterfly and the sides of the throttle throat. On any car where =
crankcase
pressure is recirculated through the air cleaner there is a tendancy =
for slimy
gunk to collect in the throttle. At higher RPM there is increased =
engine
vacuum which will tend to suck the butterfly closed sealing it in the =
gunk.
Actually, the XJ40 is one of the better cars as far as this goes. Jaguar
and Fiat/Lancia are the only cars I know with a heater on the engine=20
breather to help this problem. What happens is this. The engine breather =
is
plumbed in upstream of the butterfly. The fumes from the breather are
carrying oil and combustion vapors. When this stuff attempts to past the
butterfly in the mostly closed state, the pressure (and hence =
temperature)
drop causes the fumes to condense out of the air stream… sticking to =
the
walls of the throttle housing right around the butterfly… a petroleum
snow storm.
As an aside, this buildup can cause really weird problems on cars with
automatic IACs (idle speed control). The gunk will restrict the air flow
through the butterfly, forcing the IAC to open farther to mantain a=20
proper idle speed. On some cars, you end up with the IAC operating well
outside it’s designed range… resulting in a major ring/hunt. Killer
surging.
Oh, and since the butterfly is plugged, all of the air, and breather =
fumes,
pass through the IAC. The snowstorm happens in the IAC, ruining it.
Remedy is either to adjust the clearance or clean out the throttle, =
apparently
this is something that ought to be done every 30,000 miles or so.
Do NOT adjust the throttle stop! Clean the gunk out. 30K is about right =
for
a XJ40. Every 15K or less on cars without a heater… BMW, Volvo, Honda, =
etc.
etc. etc.
Or… there is a way to keep the gunk from building up… alluded to =
above.
Don’t operate the car with the throttle mostly closed. Keep yer foot in =
it.
Kevin
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
From: ee84287@goodnet.com (Weiss-Malik)
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 19:59:36 -0700
Subject: Re: Fellowship of the Big Cat
Jan recently posted that:
By way of an interesting… d. I don’t know the secret hand-sign of
the Fellowship of the Big Cat…>…
That’s easy Jan ! : stick your hand in your pocket to pull the wallet
out!!! Cheers,
Rob W-M
85 XJ-S
From: Fred Bramston fcb@nbnet.nb.ca
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 23:11:02 -0400
Subject: brushed nylon and plastic
Glad we could help!
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 22:59:15 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Sticking throttle
At 02:42 PM 12/17/96 -0500, you wrote:
OK - how does one clean it???
And also, where exactly is it located and how do you expose it??
You are cleaning the throttle plate and surrounding area. On Xj6/40’s,
you remove the bellows from the air flow meter to the intake. the edge
of the butterfly and the area of the haousing right around it will be
covered in black goo. Prop the throttle open and wipe the stuff out with
a rag. Use the weakest solvent you can to get it clean. I start with a
“WD40” grade oil, and go to carb cleaner if it’s really bad. Oven cleaner
is out. sand blasting is not needed or recomended.
Some warnings.
Some non-Jag cars, notably later Fords, have a teflon coating on things in
an attempt to reduce this problem. Most solvents will damage this coating.
On XJ40’s the bellows at the intake is a real bitch to get off, and even harder to get back on correctly. Loosen that hose clamp up all the way. Also on XJ40’s, even when you get the bellows free, it’s difficult to get it out of the car. I dislodge the air mass meter from the filter housing. Be careful doing this. That air mass meter is fragile (effectively a lightbulb filament)… and about $780 to replace. Randy K. Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #590 ******************************** Return-Path: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Received: (from majordom@localhost) by ekeberg.sn.no (8.7.5/8.7.3/on4) id for jag-lovers-digest-out; Wed, 18 Dec 1996 19:54:17 +0100 (MET) Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 19:54:17 +0100 (MET) Message-Id: 199612181854.TAA26250@ekeberg.sn.no From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #591 Reply-To: jag-lovers@sn.no Errors-To: @owner-jag-lovers-di1 Precedence: bulk X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest jag-lovers-digest Wednesday, 18 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 591 90 xjs stalling Re: Fellowship of the Big Cat Re: Fellowship of the Big Cat Re: Fellowship of the Big Cat Macintosh (zilch Jag content) XJ-S Help - Windows Help file 4.2 Syncro Gearbox available Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #590 leather seats refurbishment Re: Fellowship of the Big Cat Re: military standard oil Stalling '85 S3 XJ6 Cruise Control not working Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #590 Re: Fellowship of the Big Cat Oils Re: Jaguar Chat Room Re: JAGUAR CHAT ROOM?? Re: Macintosh (zilch Jag content) Attitude/Big Cat Fellowship Snake oils From: “Kevin Sisterson” stablemates@msn.com Date: Wed, 18 Dec 96 05:24:17 UT Subject: 90 xjs stalling Help, The Jag (1990 XJS V-12 coupe) drives wonderfully on long trips or one way to work. two problems. 1. If you take it out for lunch or go on a few errands after it warms up, watch out! It stalls, won’t go above 20-25mph until you let it sit for a few minutes, then it might let you go home without incedant. The first sign is when your driving along let’s say 65 mph and traffic slows ahead and you let your foot off the gas slightly, instead of coasting, it decelerates. Soon after it will stall unless the traffic thins and you can really run it . Around town after shuttting it down a few times it just stalls, no warning. I’ve cleaned out the sump screen in the aux gas tank, fuel filter is new, checked for pinched fuel hoses and run it with the gas cap loose. The charcoal cannister opening is free of debris, but it looks like it has been worked on, Do the little vacuum valves go bad? 2. It has also developed pinging at coasting speeds, if you acceletate or decellerate it stops, EGR valve maybe and where is the EGR valve? Could these problems be attributed to a vacuum leak somewhere as the charcoal cannister and EGR valve are vacuum operated? Is there a vacuum resivoir somewhere that might be corrupted? Kevin stablemates@msn.com From: George Cohn gwcohn@azstarnet.com Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 23:47:23 -0800 Subject: Re: Fellowship of the Big Cat Sad how things have changed. 24 years ago when I had my first E-type, we used to flash our headlights at each other and wave. Do the same thing now in most large cities and you’re likely to be a victim of a gang related drive-by shooting. Or is this just an American phenomenon? _________________________ George Cohn '70 OTS http://www.xke-lovers.com From: Michael Bain mbain@wolfenet.com Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 23:16:28 -0800 Subject: Re: Fellowship of the Big Cat “George” == George Cohn gwcohn@azstarnet.com writes: George> wave. Do the same thing now in most large cities and you’re George> likely to be a victim of a gang related drive-by shooting. Or George> is this just an American phenomenon? Actually, just an American Urban Legend. Michael Bain “When in Doubt, Gas It!!!” mbain@wolfenet.com “My pants just went on a wild rampage through a Long Island Bowling Alley!!” Zippy the Pinhead From: StuartMcD@aol.com Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 02:51:16 -0500 Subject: Re: Fellowship of the Big Cat I’ve seen the same as Jan – a lot of upturned nostrils from fellow jag drivers here in Seattle. I have an old MG Midget, too, which never fails to elicit waves and nods from fellow MG Lovers. I suppose Jag snobs love their Jags as we do, but they are more in love with how they look in their Jags. I’ll bet their mechanics just love them, too. Stuart McDowall 87 XJ6 VDP – Last of the line! From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 03:09:04 -0005 Subject: Macintosh (zilch Jag content) Hey, I use a real computer! As a result, I don’t know anything about Macintoshes. However, it would be a big help to others if someone here who DOES know Macintoshes could write a text file on how to view/print my XJ-S help book on a Mac. I could then include this text file in the ZIP package. I dunno what I’ll do if I get more than one response from this request – especially if they are totally different guidelines! I’d probably find a way to combine the best of both into one text file, giving each source due credit. You can just send me the writeup as an e-mail message if you want, I can save it as a text file. Thanks. PS: Of course, if someone wished to write up a similar set of guidelines for RISC/UNIX/whatever, that’d probably help somebody too. Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished, | some rules must be broken. | - Palm’s Postulate From: Derek Hibbs Derek.Hibbs@wizardis.com.au Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 19:37:26 +1100 Subject: XJ-S Help - Windows Help file G’Day to one and all, I have just updated the Windows Help file version of Kirbys XJ-S Help Booklet. You’ll find it at: http//wizardis.com.au/~derekh . As requested, it is a self-installing installation program. Any feedback is appreciated. Regards, Derek Hibbs 77 BRG XJ-S, 5.3lt EFI V12 “Even when it’s broken, my XJ-S still looks great sitting in the garage.” ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Wizard Information Services Pty Ltd Canberra, Australia Ph: 61+ 6 2750750 Fax: 61+ 6 2750777 Email: Derek.Hibbs@wizardis.com.au WWW: http://wizardis.com.au/~derekh From: vicarage@ix.netcom.com (Anthony Parkinson) Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 03:31:30 -0800 Subject: 4.2 Syncro Gearbox available I have available a 4 speed box in good working order but needing seals from my 67 coupe… ( replaced with the 5 speed) … $200 plus shipping from Florida… Kind regards tony VICARAGE JAGUARS…Restoration & Enhancement Specialists USA-Holland-UK Original parts - Exclusive Upgrades tel 305 444 8759 World Class Concours Restorations fax 305 443 6443 http://paradise.net/vicarage e-mail to: vicarage@ix.netcom.com http://www.jagweb.com/vicarage From: Bob Wright rwright@netrover.com Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 08:22:04 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #590 Ben: I recommend you paint all your panels inside and along seams than loosely hang the car back together and spray the whole car as a unit. This ensures full coverage and also allows for final adjustment and tightening of welting securely in place. (no taping marks either) In doing my Austin Healey 100 I had the car apart numerous times to ensure good panel fit but the final result was worth it. I was able to put grease on bolts in the end as well where desired. It is also worth noting that spraying paint can take on a certain hue depending on the gun, the mix and the angle of the panel. I have seen panels, painted seperately then assembled, that in certain light looked different from pne panel to another. Good luck. Bob Wright, Toronto, XK150 DHC, AH 100, Allard M, MG-TD, Bond Mk A. Too much Lucas…Not too bright! I am getting ready to put the paint on my Mk V and have a couple of questio= ns. Firstly I intend to paint the car old English White but can’t find any=20 information on how to mix the paint. Is there a substitute colour which is=20= good=20 enough. Secondly what should I do with the beading that runs between the body and t= he=20 guards ? Should I assemble the whole thing and paint over the beading, or f= it,=20 dismantle, paint and re-assemble without painting the beading ? My initial=20 thought is to paint things separately and assemble leaving the black (or wh= ite)=20 beading unpainted. Can anyone shed some light on these matters. Thanks. Ben Stelzer. 1949 Mk V. From: Volker Nadenau nadenau@ipers1.e-technik.uni-stuttgart.de Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 14:25:22 +0100 (MET) Subject: leather seats refurbishment Hello everybody, the seam of the leather seats in my XJ12S3 are broken, at leat many of them. I am just thinking about a repair or a replacement of the leather cover. The prices I got so far are: The saddler wants about 1600DM including parts of new leather and mainly the work. A pair of new covers for the front seats are 1400DM, which I would have to mount myself. Do you have any experience in this topic or other prices for the cover replacement? Best Regards Volker Volker Nadenau Phone: ++49 711 685 7200 University of Stuttgart Fax : ++49 711 685 7143 Institute for Physical Electronics Internet: nadenau@ipers1.e-technik.uni-stuttgart.de Pfaffenwaldring 47 70569 Stuttgart Germany From: “Claus, Mike” claus@wg.com Date: Wed, 18 Dec 96 08:26:05 EST Subject: Re: Fellowship of the Big Cat I too have been regularly greeting the Jag drivers I encounter. I would guess about 1/3 to 1/2 respond. Also, I have found that I get quite a few waves from them before I have a chance - perhaps Jag drivers attitudes are a little different here in the American South East (Raleigh, NC). mclaus ('93 XJ-S Convertible) ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Fellowship of the Big Cat Author: “Jan Wikstr�m” 104707.3644@CompuServe.COM at WG-RAL-SMTP Date: 12/17/96 9:41 PM By way of an interesting little informal study in sociology, I have now for two months greeted all Jaguar drivers I meet on the road. Out of the grand total of 330 (lots of Jags in the North of Sydney), one (1) responded, and he looked awfully surprised. So what conclusions do we draw? a. They’re not really Jag-lovers, just a bunch of prestige seekers. b. Jag drivers are so uptight about malicious damage that they don’t see any car out of striking range c. Jag drivers are so totally absorbed in their pleasure that they don’t see anything d. I don’t know the secret hand-sign of the Fellowship of the Big Cat… From: hardison@HiWAAY.net (Bob Hardison) Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 07:36:33 -0600 Subject: Re: military standard oil For the List’s information, the Defense Department is undergoing a major overhaul of its acquisition procedures–streamlining and GETTING RID OF MIL-Specs and STANDARDS, etc. In general,the only MIL spec/stds allowed are those that have been converted to Performance Specs (Hence the -PERF- in the title of the oil discussed by Theo Bremner in the thread). The push in the goverment process is to move completely to commercial standards, if appropriate ones can be found, otherwise the Specs/STDs still needed must be converted to -PERF-. From: ultrapak ultrapak@sprynet.com Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 06:57:57 -0800 Subject: Stalling I hope somebody can help me diagnose my problem. I have a 87 XJ6. Yesterday morning my wife went to start the car and it started fine. After about a minute of idling it died, and she could not get it started again. When i got home she was crying on my shoulder. I then decided to take a look at the car. I started the motor and it idled fine until i shifted to reverse,then it started to erratically idle. Ishifted back to park and it was fine. I played with the airflow meter a bit and also the wires on the ign. amp. got back in the car and it ran fine. This morning i was on my way to work ,cruising at abput 60 MPH. when the engine died. I coasted over to the side of the road . I tap on the airflow meter a bit and played with the wires on the amp once again. The car started up and i made it back home no problem. I wondering if this is a symptom of a bad amp or airflow meter. Does anybody have the GM. part number of the amp. that will replace Jags. Thanks to anybody who can help. Mike Bittner ultrapak@sprynet.com From: “KEATING, SCOTT” KEATING@ssb-facstaff.ssb.rochester.edu Date: Wed, 18 Dec 96 10:14:00 EST Subject: '85 S3 XJ6 Cruise Control not working The cruise control on my '85 S3 XJ6 VDP is not working. Also the throttle on the car is sticky, and I am wondering whether the two problems are related (if the throttle cable is stickly then the cruise control vacuum may not have enough power to “pull” the throttle cable). Does anyone have any experience with this? Any tests I might conduct to narrow down the problem? Any quick fixes I might try? The cruise control worked for the first couple of years I owned the car, but it has not worked in the last year or so. Thanks in advance for any advice you might offer. Scott Keating Rochester, NY From: “Thos. Carney” carney@vcn.bc.ca Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 07:26:49 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #590 For Ben Stelzer: I can’t help you on the paint codes–but surely someone can However my strong advice is to paint separately and do NOT (repeat not) paint over the beading. tom carney vancouver canada 1969 Mercedes Benz 250C 1949 Jag Mark V drophead (in pieces–still, sigh!) From: Stiens@t-online.de (Peter Stiens) Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 14:13:00 -0800 Subject: Re: Fellowship of the Big Cat Hi Jan, really amazing (and true). Let me think. Ah, yes, the answer is mmmh, … a. It it, because the real Jag-lovers are a minority. Let`s say, there is one out of thousand of jag-drivers (i am talking about todays jags, not oldies). regards, peter stiens 1967 daimler sovereign 420. Jan Wikstr�m wrote:
a. They’re not really Jag-lovers, just a bunch of prestige seekers.
b. Jag drivers are so uptight about malicious damage that they don’t see
any car out of striking range
c. Jag drivers are so totally absorbed in their pleasure that they don’t
see anything
d. I don’t know the secret hand-sign of the Fellowship of the Big Cat…
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 10:59:44 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Oils
I have received a lengthy treatise on engine oils, with a comparison of the
technical properties of major brands, from the SAAB list. If there is
interest, I could repost it here, or send a private copy to anyone interested.
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 11:05:36 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Jaguar Chat Room
Someone is trying to start up a Jaguar chat room at:
http://www.classicar.com/chat.htm
Despite help from various members of this list, it has been less than
successful.
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
From: Stiens@t-online.de (Peter Stiens)
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 14:14:44 -0800
Subject: Re: JAGUAR CHAT ROOM??
hi,
i personally feel, there is no need for an online-chat. we are spread all
over the world; we have different daytimes; i don`t want to have the pressure
to sit at the computer at certain times. Maybe i want to use this time
to sit in the garage and admire my jag .
in my opion, this list is one of the best ways, to share information with
each other.
By the way, thank you very much Nick for running this list.
regards,
peter stiens
1967 Daimler Sovereign 420
Member of Jaguar Association Germany
cobac@ix.netcom.com wrote:
Hi everybody,
Just started exploring the Chat rooms (IRC and AOL), but I can’t find
any rooms related to Jaguars (or really any other foreign car). I tried the
AOL Car Chat and all I got was replys that foreign cars suck, not true at
all, and some replys from BMW owners.
So, anybody know of a chat room where Jaguars are discussed?? If
not, (not sure how to), maybe we can create a Jag-Lovers chat room on the
IRC (?). This would allow anyone to go and chat for a while about the cars
that we all love. It would also help when some of us are online at the same
time and would like to discuss something, but we must always send E-mail
back and forth. Any opinions, would love to see someone create an area for
the Jag-lovers!
From: DavidZ333@aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 13:22:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Macintosh (zilch Jag content)
Hey, I use a real computer! As a result, I don’t know anything about
Macintoshes.<<<
Ignorance of the Macintosh is the universal reason for most people’s use of
more primative and certainly more time consuming, frustrating, and
mindlesslymacho machines.
This pro pc/ anti Mac stuff is very much like the anti-foreign car/pro
Detroit iron obtuseness that I grew up with. Go ahead, muscle your 60 Impala
around as you can if you wish, but I still prefer driving the sports car of
Computers.
VRRRROOOOOOoooooommmmmm
Be seeing you
David
From: DavidZ333@aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 13:33:20 -0500
Subject: Attitude/Big Cat Fellowship
Jaguar lovers,
Not long ago we pulled a thread having to do with attitudes of Jaguar
drivers/owners and other drivers/owners toward Jaguar d/o. I pooled many of
the “sound bite” comments and anecdotes from that exchange and shared them
with my Wisconsin Jaguar Club. Readers found them most interesting,
especially when experiences reflected a world beyond Wisconsin or the states.
I note that this thread is being tugged again, interestingly IMHO.
Please, the “Attitude” article referred to above has been hoped for as a
continuing series; and so, it would be interesting and helpful if you folks
could forward your “Fellowship” or “Attitude” comments and especially stories
to this list or to me.
I have been told that the “common cars” of OZ and NZ would make many a mouth
water in the states. It would be interesting to know more about that. Do
“classic” Jaguars show up commonly on the street and track?
Thanks for anything that can be well used by our club editor ( not me ) and
especially for info re the theme above.
Thanks
David
From: barnesl@naswi.navy.mil
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 96 10:51:43 PST
Subject: Snake oils
Dear Jag Lovers:
Not too long ago some one asked about oil additives. I came across
this on the net and though it interesting reading. From my personel
experiences, “SLICK 50/auto trans additive” caused me to buy a new over-drive
unit for my 87 vet, by pluging the oil holes to it’s front bearing.
larryB
Snake Oil
1Snake Oil!
Is That Additive Really A Negative?
Article and Photos by Fred Rau
Information for this article was compiled from reports and studies by the
University of Nevada Desert Research Center, DuPont Chemical Company, Avco
Lycoming (aircraft engine manufacturers), North Dakota State University,
Briggs and Stratton (engine manufacturers), the University of Utah
Engineering Experiment Station, California State Polytechnic College and the
National Aeronautics and Space Administration’s Lewis Research Center.
Road Rider does not claim to have all the answers. Nor do we care to presume
to tell you what to do. We have simply tried to provide you with all the
information we were able to dredge up on this subject, in hopes it will help
you in making your own, informed decision.
You Can’t Tell The Players Without A Program
On starting this project, we set out to find as many different oil additives
as we could buy. That turned out to be a mistake. There were simply too many
available! At the very first auto parts store we visited, there were over two
dozen different brand names available. By the end of the day, we had
identified over 40 different oil additives for sale and realized we needed to
rethink our strategy.
First of all, we found that if we checked the fine print on the packages,
quite a number of the additives came from the same manufacturer. Also, we
began to notice that the additives could be separated into basic “groups”
that seemed to carry approximately the same ingredients and the same
promises.
In the end, we divided our additives into four basic groups and
purchased at least three brands from three different manufacturers
for each group. We defined our four groups this way:
1.) Products that seemed to be nothing more than regular 50-rated engine oil
(including standard additives) with PTFE (Teflon TM) added.
2.) Products that seemed to be nothing more than regular 50-rated engine oil
(including standard additives) with zinc dialkyldithiophosphate added.
3.) Products containing (as near as we could determine) much the same
additives as are already found in most major brands of engine oil, though in
different quantities and combinations.
4.) Products made up primarily of solvents and/or detergents.
There may be some differences in chemical makeup within groups, but that is
impossible to tell since the additive manufacturers refuse to list the
specific ingredients of their products. We will discuss each group
individually.
The PTFE Mystery
Currently, the most common and popular oil additives on the market
are those that contain PTFE powders suspended in a regular, over-the-counter
type, 50-rated petroleum or synthetic engine oil.PTFE is the common
abbreviation used for Polytetrafloeraethylene,more commonly known by the
tradename “Teflon,” which is a registeredtrademark of the DuPont Chemical
Corporation. Among those oiladditives we have identified as containing PTFE
are: Slick 50, LiquidRing, Lubrilon, Microlon, Matrix, Petrolon (same company
as Slick50), QMl, and T-Plus (K-Mart). There are probably many more names
inuse on many more products using PTFE. We have found that oil additive
makers like to market their products under a multitude of “private brand”
names.
While some of these products may contain other additives in addition
to PTFE, all seem to rely on the PTFE as their primary active ingredient and
all, without exception, do not list what other ingredients they may
contain.Though they have gained rather wide acceptance among the motoring
public, oil additives containing PTFE have also garnered their share of
critics among experts in the field of lubrication. By far the most damning
testimonial against these products originally came from the DuPont Chemical
Corporation, inventor of PTFE and holder of the patents and trademarks for
Teflon. In a statement issued about ten years ago, DuPont’s Fluoropolymers
Division Product Specialist, J.F. Imbalzano said, “Teflon is not useful as an
ingredient in oil additives or oils used for internal combustion engines.”
At the time, DuPont threatened legal action against anyone who used
the name “Teflon” on any oil product destined for use in an internal
combustion engine, and refused to sell its PTFE powders to any one who
intended to use them for such purposes.
After a flurry of lawsuits from oil additive makers, claiming DuPont
could not prove that PTFE was harmful to engines, DuPont was forced to once
again begin selling their PTFE to the additive producers. The additive makers
like to claim this is some kind of "proof’ that their products work, when in
fact it is nothing more than proof that the American legal ethic of “innocent
until proven guilty” is still alive and well. The decision against Dupont
involved what is called “restraint of trade.” You can’t refuse to sell a
product to someone just because there is a possibility they might use it for
a purpose other than what you intended it for.
p It should be noted that DuPont’s official position on the use of PTFE in
engine oils remains carefully aloof and non-commital, for obvious legal
reasons. DuPont states that though they sell PTFE to oil additive producers,
they have “no proof of the validity of the additive makers’ claims.” They
further state that they have “no knowledge of any advantage gained through
the use of PTFE in engine oil.”
Fear of potential lawsuits for possible misrepresentation of a
product seem to run much higher among those with the most to lose.
After DuPont’s decision and attempt to halt the use of PTFE in engine
oils, several of the oil additive companies simply went elsewhere for their
PTFE powders, such as purchasing them in other countries. In some cases, they
disguise or hype their PTFE as being something different or special by
listing it under one of their own tradenames. That doesn’t change the fact
that it is still PTFE.
In addition, there is some evidence that certain supplies of PTFE
powders (from manufacturers other than DuPont) are of a cruder version than
the original, made with larger sized flakes that are more likely to “settle
out” in your oil or clog up your filters. One fairly good indication that a
product contains this kind of PTFE is if the instructions for its use advise
you to “shake well before using.” It only stands to reason that if the
manufacturer knows the solids in his product will settle to the bottom of a
container while sitting on a shelf, the same thing is going to happen inside
your engine when it is left idle for any period of time.
The problem with putting PTFE in your oil, as explained to us by
several industry experts, is that PTFE is a solid. The additive makers claim
this solid “coats” the moving parts in an engine (though that is far from
being scientifically proven). Slick 50 is currently both the most aggressive
advertiser and the most popular seller, with claims of over 14 million
treatments sold. However, such solids seem even more inclined to coat
non-moving parts, like oil passages and filters. After all, if it can build
up under the pressures and friction exerted on a cylinder wall, then it
stands to reason it should build up even better in places with low pressures
and virtually no friction.
This conclusion seems to be borne out by tests on oil additives
containing PTFE conducted by the NASA Lewis Research Center, which said in
their report, “In the types of bearing surface contact we have looked at, we
have seen no benefit. In some cases we have seen detrimental effect. The
solids in the oil tend to accumulate at inlets and act as a dam, which simply
blocks the oil from entering.
Instead of helping, it is actually depriving parts of lubricant.”
Remember, PTFE in oil additives is a suspended solid. Now think about
why you have an oil filter on your engine. To remove suspended solids, right?
Right. Therefore it would seem to follow that if your oil filter is doing its
job, it will collect as much of the PTFE as possible, as quickly as possible.
This can result in a clogged oil filter and decreased oil pressure throughout
your engine.
In response to our inquiries about this sort of problem, several of
the PTFE pushers responded that their particulates were of a sub-micron size,
capable of passing through an ordinary oil filter unrestricted. This
certainly sounds good, and may in some cases actually be true, but it makes
little difference when you know the rest of the story. You see, PTFE has
other qualities besides being a friction reducer: It expands radically when
exposed to heat. So even if those particles are small enough to pass through
your filter when you purchase them, they very well may not be when your
engine reaches normal operating temperature.
Here again, the’ scientific evidence seems to support this, as in
tests conducted by researchers at the University of Utah Engineering
Experiment Station involving Petrolon additive with PTFE.
The Petrolon test report states, “There was a pressure drop across
the oil filter resulting from possible clogging of small passageways.” In
addition, oil analysis showed that iron contamination doubled after using the
treatment, indicating that engine wear didn’t go down - it appeared to shoot
up.
This particular report was paid for by Petrolon (marketers of Slick
50), and was not all bad news for their products. The tests, conducted on a
Chevrolet six-cylinder automobile engine, showed that after treatment with
the PTFE additive the test engine’s friction was reduced by 13.1 per- cent.
Also, output horsepower increased from 5.3 percent to 8.1 percent, and fuel
economy improved from 11.8 percent under light load to 3.8 percent under
heavy load.
These are the kind of results an aggressive marketing company like
Petrolon can really sink their teeth into. If we only reported the results in
the last paragraph to you, you’d be inclined to think Slick 50 was indeed a
magic engine elixir. What you have to keep in mind is that often times the
benefits (like increased horse power and fuel economy) may be out weighed by
some serious drawbacks (like the indications of reduced oil pressure and
increased wear rate).
The Plot Thickens
Just as we were about to go to press with this article, we were
contacted by the public relations firm of Trent and Company, an outfit with a
prestigious address in the Empire State Building, New York. They advised us
they were working for a company called QMI out of Lakeland, Florida, that was
marketing a “technological breakthrough” product in oil additives. Naturally,
we asked them to send us all pertinent information, including any testing
and research data.
What we got was pretty much what we expected. QMI’s oil additive,
according to their press release, uses “ten times more PTFE resins than its
closest competitor.” Using the “unique SX-6000 formula,” they say they are
the only company to use “aqueous dispersion resin which means the microns
(particle sizes) are extensively smaller and can penetrate tight areas.”
This, they claim, “completely eliminates the problem of clogged filters and
oil passages.”
Intrigued by their press release, we set up a telephone interview
with their Vice- President of Technical Services, Mr. Owen Heatwole. Mr.
Heatwole’s name was immediately recognized by us as one that had popped in
earlier research of this subject as a former employee of Petrolon, a company
whose name seems inextricably linked in some fashion or another with
virtually every PTFE-related additive maker in the country.
Mr. Heatwole was a charming and persuasive talker with a knack for
avoiding direct answers as good as any seasoned politician. His glib pitch
for his product was the best we’ve ever heard, but when dissected and pared
down to the verifiable facts, it actually said very little.
When we asked about the ingredients in QMI’s treatments, we got
almost exactly the response we expected. Mr. Heatwole said he would “have to
avoid discussing specifics about the formula, for proprietary reasons.”
pAfter telling us that QMI was being used by “a major oil company,” a
“nuclear plant owned by a major corporation” and a “major engine
manufacturer,” Mr. Heatwole followed up with, “Naturally, I can’t reveal
their names- for proprietary reasons.”
He further claimed to have extensive testing and research data
available from a “major laboratory,” proving conclusively how effective QMI
was. When we asked for the name of the lab, can you guess? Yup, “We can’t
give out that information, for proprietary reasons.”
What QMI did give us was the typical “testimonials,” though we must
admit theirs came from more recognizable sources than usual. They seem to
have won over the likes of both Team Kawasaki and Bobby Unser, who evidently
endorse and use QMI in their racing engines. Mr. Heatwole was very proud of
the fact that their product was being used in engines that he himself
admitted are “torn down and completely inspected on a weekly basis.” Of
course, what he left out is that those same engines are almost totally
rebuilt every time they’re torn down. So what does that prove in terms of his
product reducing wear and promoting engine longevity? Virtually nothing.
Mr. Heatwole declined to name the source of QMI’s PTFE supply “for
proprietary reasons.” He bragged that their product is sold under many
different private labels, but refused to identify those labels “for
proprietary reasons.” When asked about the actual size of the PTFE particles
used in QMI, he claimed they were measured as “sub-micron in size” by a
“major motor laboratory” which he couldn’t identify - you guessed it - for
“proprietary reasons.”
After about an hour of listening to “don’t quote me on this,” “I’ll
have to deny that if you print it,” and “I can’t reveal that,” we asked Mr.
Heatwole if there was something we could print.
“Certainly,” he said, “Here’s a good quote for you: `The radical
growth in technology has overcome the problem areas associated with PTFE in
the I980s’” “Not bad,” we said. Then we asked to whom we might attribute
this gem of wisdom. DuPont Chemical, perhaps?
“Me,” said Mr. Heatwole. “I said that.”
QMI’s press releases like to quote the Guinness Book Of Records in
saying that PTFE is “The slickest substance known to man.” Far be it from us
to take exception to the Guinness Book, but we doubt that PTFE is much
slicker than some of the people marketing it.
The Zinc Question
The latest “miracle ingredient” in oil additives, attempting to usurp
PTFE’s cure-all throne, is zinc dialkyldithiophosphate, which we will refer
to here after as simply “zinc.”
Purveyors of the new zinc-related products claim they can prove
absolute superiority over the PTFE-related products. Naturally, the PTFE
crowd claim exactly the same, in reverse.
Zinc is contained as part of the standard additive package in
virtually every major brand of engine oil sold today, varying from a low
volume of 0.10 per cent in brands such as Valvoline All Climate and Chevron
l5W-50, to a high volume of 0.20 percent in brands such as Valvoline Race
and Pennzoil GT Performance.
Organic zinc compounds are used as extreme pressure, anti-wear
additives, and are therefore found in larger amounts in oils specifically
blended for high-revving, turbocharged or racing applications. The zinc in
your oil comes into play only when there is actual metal-to-metal con tact
within your engine, which should never occur under normal operating
conditions. However, if you race your bike, or occasionally play tag with the
redline on the tach, the zinc is your last line of defense. Under extreme
conditions, the zinc compounds react with the metal to prevent scuffing,
particularly between cylinder bores and piston rings.
However - and this is the important part to remember - available
research shows that more zinc does not give you more protection, it merely
prolongs the protection if the rate of metal-to-metal contact is abnormally
high or extended. So unless you plan on spending a couple of hours dragging
your knee at Laguna Seca, adding extra zinc compounds to your oil is usually
a waste. Also, keep in mind that high zinc content can lead to deposit
formation on your valves, and spark plug fouling.
Among the products we found containing zinc dialkyldithiophosphate
were Mechanics Brand Engine Tune Up, K Mart Super Oil Treatment, and STP
Engine Treatment With XEP2. The only reason we can easily identify the
additives with the new zinc compounds is that they are required to carry a
Federally mandated warning label indicating they contain a hazardous
substance. The zinc phosphate they contain is a known eye irritant, capable
of inflicting severe harm if it comes in contact with your eyes. If you
insist on using one of these products, please wear protective goggles and
exercise extreme caution.
As we mentioned, organic zinc compounds are already found in
virtually every major brand of oil, both automotive and motorcycle. However,
in recent years the oil companies voluntarily reduced the amount of zinc
content in most of their products after research indicated the zinc was
responsible for premature deterioration and damage to catalytic converters.
Obviously this situation would not affect 99 percent of all the motorcycles
on the road - however, it could have been a factor with the newer BMW
converter - equipped bikes.
Since the reduction in zinc content was implemented solely for the
protection of catalytic converters, it is possible that some motorcycles
might benefit from a slight increase in zinc content in their oils. This has
been taken into account by at least one oil company, Spectro, which offers
0.02 to 0.03 percent more zinc compounds in its motorcycle oils than in its
automotive oils.
Since Spectro (Golden 4 brand, in this case) is a synthetic blend
lubricant designed for extended drain intervals, this increase seems to be
wholly justified. Also, available research indicates that Spectro has, in
this case, achieved a sensible balance for extended application without
increasing the zinc content to the point that it is likely to cause spark
plug fouling or present a threat to converter- equipped BMW models.
It would appear that someone at Spectro did their homework.
Increased Standard Additives, (More Is Not Necessarily Better)
Though some additives may not contain anything harmful to your
engine, and even some things that could be beneficial, most experts still
recommend that you avoid their use. The reason for this is that your oil, as
purchased from one of the major oil companies, already contains a very
extensive additive package.
This package is made up of numerous, specific additive components,
blended to achieve a specific formula that will meet the requirements of your
engine. Usually, at least several of these additives will be synergistic.
That is, they react mutually, in groups of two or more, to create an effect
that none of them could attain individually. Changing or adding to this
formula can upset the balance and negate the protective effect the formula
was meant to achieve, even if you are only adding more of something that was
already included in the initial package.
If it helps, try to think of your oil like a cake recipe. Just
because the original recipe calls for two eggs (which makes for a very moist
and tasty cake), do you think adding four more eggs is going to make the cake
better? Of course not. You’re going to upset the carefully calculated balance
of ingredients and magnify the effect the eggs have on the recipe to the
point that it ruins the entire cake. Adding more of a specific additive
already contained in your oil is likely to produce similar results.
This information should also be taken into account when adding to the
oil already in your bike or when mixing oils for any reason, such as
synthetic with petroleum. In these cases, always make sure the oils you are
putting together have the same rating (SA, SE, SC, etc.). This tells you
their additive packages are basically the same, or at least compatible, and
are less likely to upset the balance or counteract each other.
Detergents And Solvents
Many of the older, better-known oil treatments on the market do not
make claims nearly so lavish as the new upstarts. Old standbys like Bardahl,
Rislone and Marvel Mystery Oil, instead offer things like “quieter
lifters,” “reduced oil burning” and a “cleaner engine.”
Most of these products are made up of solvents and detergents
designed to dissolve sludge and carbon deposits inside your engine so they
can be flushed or burned out. Wynn’s Friction Proofing Oil, for example, is
83 percent kerosene. Other brands use naphthalene, xylene, acetone and
isopropanol. Usually, these ingredients will be found in a base of standard
mineral oil.
In general, these products are designed to do just the opposite of
what the PTFE and zinc phosphate additives claim to do. Instead of leaving
behind a “coating” or a “plating” on your engine surfaces, they are designed
to strip away such things.
All of these products will strip sludge and deposits out and clean up
your engine, particularly if it is an older, abused one. The problem is,
unless you have some way of determining just how much is needed to remove
your deposits without going any further, such solvents also can strip away
the boundary lubrication layer provided by your oil. Overuse of solvents is
an easy trap to fall into, and one which can promote harmful metal-to-metal
contact within your engine.
As a general rule of thumb these products had their place and were at
least moderately useful on older automobile and motorcycle engines of the
Fifties and Sixties, but are basically unneeded on the more efficient engine
designs of the past two decades.
The Infamous “No Oil” Demo
pAt at least three major motorcycle rallies this past year, we have witnessed
live demonstrations put on to demonstrate the effectiveness of certain oil
additives. The demonstrators would have a bench- mounted engine which they
would fill with oil and a prescribed dose of their “miracle additive.” After
running the engine for a while they would stop it, drain out the oil and
start it up again. Instant magic! The engine would run perfectly well for
hours on end, seemingly proving the effectiveness of the additive which had
supposedly “coated” the inside of the engine so well it didn’t even need the
oil to run. In one case, we saw this done with an actual motorcycle, which
would be rid den around the parking lot after having its oil drained. A
pretty convincing demonstration - until you know the facts.
Since some of these demonstrations were conducted using Briggs and
Stratton engines, the Briggs and Stratton Company itself decided to run
a similar, but somewhat more scientific, experiment.
Taking two brand-new, identical engines straight off their assembly line,
they set them up for bench-testing. The only difference was that one had the
special additive included with its oil and the other did not. Both were
operated for 20 hours before being shut down and having the oil drained from
them. Then both were started up again and allowed to run for another 20
straight hours. Neither engine seemed to have any problem performing this
“minor miracle.”
After the second 20-hour run, both engines were completely torn down
and inspected by the company’s engineers. What they found was that both
engines suffered from scored crankpin bearings, but the engine treated with
the additive also suffered from heavy cylinder bore damage that was not
evident on the untreated engine.
This points out once again the inherent problem with particulate oil
additives: They can cause oil starvation. This is particularly true in the
area of piston rings, where there is a critical need for adequate oil flow.
In practically all of the reports and studies on oil additives, and
particularly those involving suspended solids like PTFE, this has been
reported as a major area of engine damage.
The Racing Perspective
Among the most convincing testimonials in favor of oil additives are
those that come from professional racers or racing teams. As noted
previously, some of the oil additive products actually are capable of
producing less engine friction, better gas mileage and higher horsepower out
put. In the world of professional racing, the split-second advantage that
might be gained from using such a product could be the difference between
victory and defeat.
Virtually all of the downside or detrimental effects attached to
these products are related to extended, long-term usage. For short-life,
high-revving, ultra-high performance engines designed to last no longer than
one racing season (or in some cases, one single race), the long-term effects
of oil additives need not even be considered.
Racers also use special high-adhesion tires that give much better
traction and control than our normal street tires, but you certainly wouldn’t
want to go touring on them, since they’re designed to wear out in several
hundred (or less) miles. Just because certain oil additives may be beneficial
in a competitive context is no reason to believe they would be equally
beneficial in a touring context.
The Best of The Worst
Not all engine oil additives are as potentially harmful as some of
those we have described here. However, the best that can be said of those
that have not proved to be harmful is that they haven’t been proved to offer
any real benefits, either. In some cases, introducing an additive with a
compatible package of components to your oil in the right proportion and at
the right time can conceivably extend the life of your oil. However, in every
case we have studied it proves out that it would actually have been cheaper
to simply change the engine oil instead.
In addition, recent new evidence has come to light that makes using
almost any additive a game of Russian Roulette. Since the additive
distributors do not list the ingredients contained within their products, you
never know for sure just what you are putting in your engine.
Recent tests have shown that even some of the most inoffensive
additives contain products which, though harmless in their initial state,
convert to hydrofluoric acid when exposed to the temperatures inside a firing
cylinder. This acid is formed as part of the exhaust gases, and though it is
instantly expelled from your engine and seems to do it no harm, the gases
collect inside your exhaust system and eat away at your mufflers from the
inside out.
Whatever The Market Will Bear
The pricing of oil additives seems to follow no particular pattern
whatsoever. Even among those products that seem to be almost identical,
chemically, retail prices covered an extremely wide range. For example:
One 32-ounce bottle of Slick 50 (with PTFE) cost us $29.95 at a
discount house that listed the retail price as $59.95, while a 32-ounce
bottle of T-Plus (which claims to carry twice as much PTFE as the Slick 50)
cost us only $15.88.
A 32-ounce bottle of STP Engine Treatment (containing what they call
XEP2), which they claim they can prove “outperforms leading PTFE engine
treatments,” cost us $17.97. Yet a can of K Mart Super Oil Treatment, which
listed the same zinc-derivative ingredient as that listed for the XEP2, cost
us a paltry $2.67.
Industry experts estimate that the actual cost of producing most oil
additives is from one-tenth to one-twentieth of the asking retail price.
Certainly no additive manufacturer has come forward with any exotic,
high-cost ingredient or list of ingredients to dispute this claim. As an
interesting note along with this, back before there was so much competition
in the field to drive prices down, Petrolon (Slick 50) was selling their PTFE
products for as much as $400 per treatment! The words “buyer beware” seem to
take on very real significance when talking about oil additives.
The Psychological Placebo pYou have to wonder, with the volume of
evidence accumulating against oil additives, why so many of us still buy
them. That’s the million-dollar question, and it’s just as difficult to
answer as why so many of us smoke cigarettes, drink hard liquor or engage in
any other number of questionable activities. We know they aren’t good for us
-
-
but we go ahead and do them anyway.
Part of the answer may lie in what some psychiatrists call the
“psychological placebo effect.” Simply put, that means that many of us hunger
for that peace of mind that comes with believing we have purchased the
absolute best or most protection we can possibly get.
Even better, there’s that wonderfully smug feeling that comes with
thinking we might be a step ahead of the pack, possessing knowledge of
something just a bit better than everyone else.
Then again, perhaps it comes from an ancient, deep-seated need we all
seem to have to believe in magic. There has never been any shortage of
unscrupulous types ready to cash in on our willingness to believe that
there’s some magical mystery potion we can buy to help us lose weight, grow
hair, attract the opposite sex or make our engines run longer and better. I
doubt that there’s a one of us who hasn’t fallen for one of these at least
once in our lifetimes. We just want it to be true so bad that we can’t help
ourselves.
Testimonial Hype vs. Scientific Analysis
In general, most producers of oil additives rely on personal
“testimonials” to advertise and promote their products. A typical print
advertisement will be one or more letters from a satisfied customer stating
something like, “1 have used Brand X in my engine for 2 years and 50,000
miles and it runs smoother and gets better gas mileage than ever before. I
love this product and would recommend it to anyone.”
Such evidence is referred to as “anecdotal” and is most commonly used
to pro mote such things as miracle weight loss diets and astrology.
Whenever I see one of these ads I am reminded of a stunt played out
several years ago by Allen Funt of “Candid Camera” that clearly demonstrated
the side of human nature that makes such advertising possible.
With cameras in full view, fake “product demonstrators” would offer
people passing through a grocery store the opportunity to taste-test a “new
soft drink.” What the victims didn’t know was that they were being given a
horrendous concoction of castor oil, garlic juice, tabasco sauce and several
other foul-tasting ingredients. After taking a nice, big swallow, as
instructed by the demonstrators, the unwitting victims provided huge laughs
for the audience by desperately trying to conceal their anguish and disgust.
Some literally turned away from the cameras and spit the offending potion on
the floor.
The fascinating part came when about one out of four of the victims
would actu ally turn back to the cameras and proclaim the new drink was
“Great” or “Unique” or, in several cases, “One of the best things I’ve ever
tasted!” Go figure.
The point is, compiling “personal testimonials” for a product is one
of the easiest things an advertising company can do - and one of the safest,
too. You see, as long as they are only expressing some one else’s personal
opinion, they don’t have to prove a thing! It’s just an opinion, and needs no
basis in fact whatsoever.
pOn the other hand, there has been documented, careful scientific analysis
done on numerous oil additives by accredited institutions and researchers.
For example:
Avco Lycoming, a major manufacturer of aircraft engines, states, “We
have tried every additive we could find on the market, and they are all
worthless.”
Briggs and Stratton, renowned builders of some of the most durable
engines in the world, says in their report on engine oil additives, “They do
not appear to offer any benefits.”
North Dakota State University conducted tests on oil additives and
said in their report, “The theory sounds good- the only problem is that the
products simply don’t work.”
And finally, Ed Hackett, chemist at the University of Nevada Desert
Research Center, says, “Oil additives should not be used. The oil companies
have gone to great lengths to develop an additive pack age that meets the
vehicle’s requirements. If you add anything to this oil you may upset the
balance and prevent the oil from performing to specification.”
Petrolon, Inc., of Houston, Texas, makers of Petrolon and producers
of at least a dozen other lubrication products containing PTFE, including
Slick 50 and Slick 30 Motorcycle Formula, claim that, “Multiple tests by
independent laboratories have shown that when properly applied to an
automotive engine, Slick 50 Engine Formula reduces wear on engine parts. Test
results have shown that Slick 50 treated engines sustained 50 percent less
wear than test engines run with premium motor oil alone.”
Sounds pretty convincing, doesn’t it?
The problem is, Petrolon and the other oil additive companies that
claim “scientific evidence” from “independent laboratories,” all refuse to
identify the laboratories that conducted the tests or the criteria under
which the tests were conducted. They claim they are “contractually bound” by
the laboratories to not reveal their identities.
In addition, the claim of “50 percent less wear” has never been
proven on anything approaching a long-term basis. Typical examples used to
support the additive makers’ claims involve engines run from 100 to 200 hours
after treatment, during which time the amount of wear particles in the oil
decreased. While this has proven to be true in some cases, it has also been
proven that after 400 to 500 hours of running the test engines invariably
reverted to producing just as many wear particles as before treatment, and in
some cases, even more.
No matter what the additive makers would like you to believe, nothing
has been proven to stop normal engine wear.
You will note that all of the research facilities quoted in this
article are clearly identified. They have no problem with making their
findings public. You will also note that virtually all of their findings
about oil additives are negative. That’s not because we wanted to give a
biased report against oil additives - it’s because we couldn’t find a single
laboratory, engine manufacturer or independent research facility who would
make a public claim, with their name attached to it, that any of the
additives were actually beneficial to an engine. The conclusion seems
inescapable.
As a final note on advertising hype versus the real world, we saw a
television ad the other night for Slick 50 oil additive. The ad encouraged
people to buy their product on the basis of the fact that, “Over 14 million
Americans have tried Slick 50!” Great. We’re sure you could just as easily
say, “Over 14 million Americans have smoked cigarettes!”-but is that really
any reason for you to try it? Of course not, because you’ve seen the
scientific evidence of the harm it can do. The exact same principle applies
here.In Conclusion
The major oil companies are some of the richest, most powerful and
aggressive corporations in world. They own multi- million dollar research
facilities manned by some of the best chemical engineers money can hire. It
is probably safe to say that any one of them has the capabilities and
resources at hand in marketing, distribution, advertising, research and
product development equal to 20 times that of any of the independent additive
companies. It therefore stands to reason that if any of these additive
products were actu ally capable of improving the capabilities of engine
lubricants, the major oil companies would have been able to determine that
and to find some way to cash in on it.
Yet of all the oil additives we found, none carried the name or
endorsement of any of the major oil producers.
In addition, all of the major vehicle and engine manufacturers spend
millions of dollars each year trying to increase the longevity of their
products, and millions more paying off warranty claims when their products
fail. Again, it only stands to reason that if they thought any of these
additives would increase the life or improve the performance of their
engines, they would be actively using and selling them - or at least
endorsing their use.
Instead, many of them advise against the use of these additives and,
in some cases, threaten to void their warranty coverage if such things are
found to be used in their products.
In any story of this nature, absolute “facts” are virtually
impossible to come by. Opinions abound. Evidence that points one direction
or the other is avail able, but has to be carefully ferreted out, and is not
always totally reliable or completely verifiable.
In this environment, conclusions reached by known, knowledgeable
experts in the field must be given a certain amount of weight. Conclusions
reached by unknown, unidentifiable sources must be discounted almost totally.
That which is left must be weighed, one side against the other, in an attempt
to reach a “reasonable” conclusion.
In the case of oil additives, there is a considerable volume of
evidence against their effectiveness. This evidence comes from well-known and
identifiable expert sources, including independent research laboratories,
state universities, major engine manufacturers, and even NASA.
Against this rather formidable barrage of scientific research,
additive makers offer not much more than their own claims of effectiveness,
plus questionable and totally unscientific personal testimonials. Though the
purveyors of these products state they have studies from other independent
laboratories supporting their claims, they refuse to identify the labs or
provide copies of the research. The only test results they will share are
those from their own testing departments, which must, by their very nature,
be taken with a rather large grain of salt.r
-
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #591
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From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 19 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 592
Re: Mk V Paint.
Cat trick #2: Security reset
Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #590
Hard Times
Re: Macintosh (zilch Jag content)
RE: Attitude/Big Cat Fellowship
Kirby’s Book & quickie on computers formats
Re: Toward Better Brake Lights
Re: XJ6 - SIII: tapping noise from engine
1985 XJ6 Jaguar
your recent comment in jag-lovers@sn.no
XJS Surging Solution?
Re: Kirby’s Book & quickie on computers formats
FW: RE: your recent comment in jag-lovers@sn.no
RE: Macintosh (zilch Jag content), Please stop!
Fan on XJ6
Re: XJ6 - SIII: tapping noise from engine
valve covers
Re: Sticking throttle
Re: Cat trick #2: Security reset
Re: your recent comment in jag-lovers@sn.no
Painting Engine Blocks
From: “Rob Reilly” reilly@admail.fnal.gov
Date: 18 Dec 1996 13:16:20 -0600
Subject: Re: Mk V Paint.
Reply to: RE>Mk V Paint.
old English White
For Ben Stelzer. Ben, something’s wrong with your address, so I’m reposting
this to jag-lovers hoping you’ll see it.
I don’t have the original codes, but from a 1952 service bulletin, the color
code is Pinchin Johnson J.863(A), however this is probably for lacquer whereas
our Mk V’s were painted in enamel. The factory switched from enamel to lacquer
in 1952. If anyone has original codes I too would love to hear about it.
beading that runs between the body and the guards
The original beading on my Mk V was painted body color (Gunmetal).
Coincidentally we just talked about this on xk-lovers. Most XK’s were body
color but some were sent out with black.
I would trial fit everything first, then paint and buff, then assemble very
carefully with a couple of helpers.
From: WALENK@MAIL.STATE.WI.US
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 13:30:22 -0600
Subject: Cat trick #2: Security reset
*Many thanks to Vic, Jerry King, John Goodman, and Kirby Palm for their help
with cat trick #1, the interior lights which wouldn’t go out. The
interior roof light was missing a bulb, allowing one of the leads to
short. But in order to determine this I had to disconnect the
battery.
Cat trick #2, the security system beeps (not the horn) and the
headlights flash, pressing the keyless entry gizmo sounds the horn.
My handbook says only that my Jaguar dealer can give me complete
information on this security system, but of course they didn’t.
Kirby’s book, page 96, says disconnecting the battery “requires
resetting the clock…and possibly some security stuff, all of which
is a pain.”
Could someone please elaborate so I don’t have to pay the dealer to
tell me something fairly obvious.
Thanks.
Kane
'92 XJ-S
From: M.Cogswell@zds.com (Mike Cogswell)
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 14:19:51 -0600
Subject: Re: jag-lovers-digest V2 #590
This is a Mime message, which your current mail reader
may not understand. Parts of the message will appear as
text. To process the remainder, you will need to use a Mime
compatible mail reader. Contact your vendor for details.
- –IMA.Boundary.210939058
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Description: cc:Mail note part
MIL-L-2105 is a Military Specification, not a Military Standard (MIL-STD-)
Specifically, it is the specification for the performance capability of gear
lubricants. MIL-L-2105 dates back to 1946. MIL-L-2105D is the version most
current gear lubes meet.
- --------------------------- Reply Message -------------------------------
From: theo bremner tbremner@lynx.dac.neu.edu
Date: Tue, 17 Dec 1996 15:50:26 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Differential OIl-- 83 xj6S3
Kyle,
I looked up in a military standard handbook and there is no spec
MIL-L-2105 anything the closest thing is MIL-PRF-2105F.
Hope this helps
Later
Theo
tbremner@lynx.neu.edu
- –IMA.Boundary.210939058–
From: KupyKool@aol.com
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 14:58:05 -0500
Subject: Hard Times
Thanks to all those who responded to my recent question regarding ABS
failure. Normally I would respond personally, but I seem to have lost all
messages on my hard drive since 11/30/96. (I guess you’re not supposed to
bang those things against the wall when removing the power cable.)
I will try to resend lost messages if I can find them on AOL.
Mike Kupritz
Baltimore, Maryland
From: cuno@macworld.ch (Cuno Schneeberger)
Date: 18 Dec 1996 10:41:10 GMT
Subject: Re: Macintosh (zilch Jag content)
Hi Kirbert
I managed to view and print your XJ-S help book on my Macintosh without a
problem (and as a matter of fact I make my living writing about Macs). So if
you admit that you have been a naughty boy for hinting that Macintoshes would
not be real computers then I might let you talk me into writing the
guidelines you requested…
Regards
Cuno
90 XJ-S V12 Cpe
94 Power Macintosh 8100/80
From: John Setters john_setters@eagle.co.nz
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 10:34:02 +1300
Subject: RE: Attitude/Big Cat Fellowship
I was desperately trying to keep out of this thread but alas the “A”
keyword has been mentioned.
Here in New Zealand I have not had many responses to my salutes to other
Jaguar drivers.
So I have limited my acknowledgements to those with the same model ie
XJ-Ss or
particularly notable examples of older Jags (usually owned by
enthusiasts)
These are easily identifiable by their vanity plates or pristine
condition.
There are also numerous posers with vanity plates driving new model
“prestige” Jaguars.
The plates are often a givaway carrying a “status” message; initials or
business
name or abbreviation.
The real enthusiasts tend to have something Jaguar or model/year
oriented
eg 85XJSC, 78XJ6, JAQUAH, THEJAG, and so on to mention only a few.
David I am pleased to hear that others have found this type of
discussion interesting
and that it has generated further interest in your Wisconsin Jaguar
Club.
It is true that we have many fine examples of the marque down here in
N.Z.
I would typically see 5 or more on any drive around our city to or from
work
or on a lunch break. That is a mixture of MK 1, 2, XJ6, XJ-S, an
occasional E Type,
rarely any MK 7s, 9s or MK 10s any more. I even nearly bumped into an
XK8 the other day
which has the number plate JNZ.(guess who owns this) Last week I checked
out a local
car sales area and found a choice of 9 XJ-Ss on sale in three dealers
yards within walking
distance of each other. Prices ranged NZ$18,000 to NZ$90,000.
There is also a very good condition Series III V12 E Type with an asking
price of
NZ$90,000 that has been on the lot for over 5 months; and a XK140 in
concourse
condition for NZ$150,000 - both of these are just too much for the
average Kiwi.
A specialist dealer has a 1948 MK V in exellent condition for NZ$44,000.
My friend has just bought a mint condition MK 2 240 for NZ$15,000 and I
mean “mint”
This vehicle is so good it will not be used as a daily driver but he has
brought it
to work a few times. Cars like this are commonly seen on our roads.
As you can see by these few observations we are spoilt for choice; the
problem is
how many can one man have ? Regards,
John Setters
Desktop Mapping Consultant
Eagle Technology Group Ltd
110 Symonds Street
Auckland
New Zealand
Ph +64 +09 300 3400 Fax +64 +09 300 3420
Email john_setters@eagle.co.nz
http://www.eagle.co.nz
From: DavidZ333@aol.com[SMTP:DavidZ333@aol.com]
Please, the “Attitude” article referred to above has been hoped for as
a
continuing series; and so, it would be interesting and helpful if you
folks
could forward your “Fellowship” or “Attitude” comments and especially
stories
to this list or to me.I have been told that the “common cars” of OZ and NZ would make many a
mouth
water in the states. It would be interesting to know more about that.
Do
“classic” Jaguars show up commonly on the street and track?
From: “Himes,John W.” jwh@mime.dw.lucent.com
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 96 16:26:00 PST
Subject: Kirby’s Book & quickie on computers formats
Kirby, if you have some extra time and $$$ to spend, you could purchase one
of Adobe’s products [www.adobe.com] ( I believe Frame Maker ) to create a
.PDF version of your book. The .PDF viewer is free to everyone for their
platform. The same PDF files can be used on UNIX, PC, MAC machines. (
there is a really good demo on the Photoshop 4.0 CD ) This way you would
only need to create one version & not worry about compatibility on others
machines. Of course there is the personal investment of your time & money.
( Just throwing out ideas )
Can we please keep the PC/MAC/UNIX/Other wars somewhere else. I would hate
to read through the same thing again as we had on various other non Jag
topics. ( Of course, here is my little bit ) There was a repeat on PBS here
in the USA that covered the evolution of the personal computer hardware &
software, key players & why things went they way they did. If a few people
were not asleep at the wheel, Microsoft may not be the titan that they are,
better marketing by APPLE, things could be very different. Thank you APPLE
for really getting the PC from just something for the hobbyists and into the
real home market. ( This from a Windoze user & PC owner )
John Himes
88 XJ-S 99K Miles
From: ajbeale@squirrel.com.au (A.J. Beale)
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 09:59:43 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: Toward Better Brake Lights
This is an interesting subject. One problem with brake lights is that they
give no indication of how hard the driver in front is braking and for this
reason the following driver may not react soon enough. Many years ago,
there was a novelty device which was hung in the rear window. It consisted
of three lights - green, amber and red. Green was on normally and changed
to amber when the car was decelerating and red on braking. LEDs would allow
a string of several lights to indicate braking pressure and could help
reduce tail enders. It could be done with normal incandescents, but LEDs
should be easier and neater. Alan.
From: thomas_guadagni@fmc.com (THOMAS GUADAGNI)
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 13:05:09 -0600
Subject: Re: XJ6 - SIII: tapping noise from engine
-
–IMA.Boundary.348259058
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Tapping noise from the exhaust valve cover seems to be a common
complaint for high mileage series III cars. My 82 had a valve job and
the hold down kit installed and it makes the tapping noise. Some of
the suggested causes were:Loose timing chain
Worn valve adjusting shims
Shortened valve stems
These all checked out OK and I was told to have the head removed and
thoroughly gone over. I hope you didn’t have to go that far.Do any of the Jag-lovers have any other ideas?
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: XJ6 - SIII: tapping noise from engine
Author: Norman Angerhofer angerhof@ptc.com at Internet
Date: 12/4/96 10:01 AM
I recently purchased a 1985 Series III XJ6 locally. After fixing
major oil leaks, I have been test driving it, and notice there is
a tapping noise coming from the engine. It appears to come from
under the exhaust camshaft cover, but when I use the screwdriver
stethoscope :-), I do not hear any distinctly louder areas.
The former owner (restores old Jags for a living) says he did a valve
job a while back; but as I have found loose bolts on exhause manifold
and breather cover, I am wondering if he was careful to set the tappet
clearances.
My questions:
Does this sound like a valve clearance problem? Is it an easy job to
check and redo the clearances? What other areas should be checked?
Could the noise also be caused by overtightening the camshaft cover nuts?
I checked in the Haynes manual, and among suggested possibilities are
valve clearances and worn timing chain.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
- –Norman Angerhofer
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From: Norman Angerhofer angerhof@ptc.com
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Reply-To: angerhof@ptc.com
Subject: XJ6 - SIII: tapping noise from engine
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From: mrogers@grannet.com (GRANNET Mrogers)
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 16:31:09 -0800
Subject: 1985 XJ6 Jaguar
I have a 1985 XJ6 with only 75,000 miles on it.
I am having problems with the power locks.
From: nbutler@brill.acomp.usf.edu
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 19:24:00 -0500
Subject: your recent comment in jag-lovers@sn.no
I wouldn’t flame anybody, but self inflicted pain should not go
unnoticed
You’re really afraid of flashing your passing lights at a fellow jag
owner for fear of a gang related incident??
When was the last time you saw, heard of, of had even the slightest
support for the notion that gang members drive jags?? Furthermore, if
you’re too paranoid to act upon your instincts for fellowship with other
jag drivers on the open road, I suggest you invest in something more
akin to your perceptions…how about a fully armored HUMVEE from one of
many Texas custome shops that could allow to to drive through
neighborhoods you shouldn’t be in anyway, which virtual complete
protection from the “elements”. Better yet, use a little common sense
about where you drive, period. “Stupid is as Stupid does”.
From: “A. Gardner” gardnera@SLUVCA.SLU.EDU
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 18:23:56 -0600 (CST)
Subject: XJS Surging Solution?
Earl Huff wrote
I removed the auxiliary air valve and tested it in boiling water as
described in
my Haynes manual. The valve very s-l-o-w-l-y NEARLY closed, but after 5
minutes when I
blow through the valve air still freely passes.
2 Questions:
- Can I assume the valve should be replaced after waiting that long
for it to completely close?
>2. If it is bad, could that be the source of my (surging) problem.
My car is an XJ6 Series III and the extra air valve is controlled by coolant
temperature and an electrical heater. If yours is the same, apply 12V at
the terminals and observe if the aperture closes. The movement should be
visible. However, after an excursion into the freezer and then hot water
mine also reacted slowly but I cannot remember over how long.
In any case, I doubt this is your problem because the EAV is, I believe,
simply a means of raising the rpm on a cold engine by allowing increased air
to be sensed by the air flow meter and will not be an air tight seal even
when closed. I seem to recall some list members have blocked them off.
Tony Gardner
XJ6 Series III 1986
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 19:27:05 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Kirby’s Book & quickie on computers formats
On Wed, 18 Dec 1996, Himes,John W. wrote:
John Himes
88 XJ-S 99K Miles
Hey, John – your car has been in the high 90’s for some time now – when
are you going to flip that sucker over???
John
From: “Lauren E. Pratt” pratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 96 18:42:36 PST
Subject: FW: RE: your recent comment in jag-lovers@sn.no
Some one wrote,in part:
Better yet, use a little common sense
about where you drive, period. “Stupid is as Stupid does”.
Not too long ago a man was killed in his well lilt parking garage
by two gang members for his XJ-40.
You might want to re-think your last statement.
Be careful, and have a joyous yule-tide.
Cheers Lauren
Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 12/18/96
Time: 6:31:13 PM
This message was sent by Chameleon
- -----------------End of Original Message-----------------
Name: Lauren Pratt
E-mail: lpratt@its.bldrdoc.gov
Date: 12/18/96
Time: 6:42:37 PM
This message was sent by Chameleon
From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 02:07:18 +0100
Subject: RE: Macintosh (zilch Jag content), Please stop!
Folks,
This Thread From Hell has single-handedly destroyed my favourite
newsgroup, alt.folklore.computers. This used to be a nice and friendly
forum for discussing the computers, software and Field Service Engineers
of the olden days of computing. Today it’s a quagmire of never-ending
flamewars between the Mac-Evangelists and the PC-diehards. All the nice
(and very knowledgeable) people who used to hang out there have long
since left.
Please, please, let’s not allow this stupid and pointless thread to
poison Jag Lovers as well. Let’s stop it now.
Gunnar
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar Sovereign 4.2
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | Vicki who? What .sig virus?
From: kkrofft@juno.com (Kordon E. Krofft)
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 20:16:47 PST
Subject: Fan on XJ6
Help! I just spent a long session trying to get the climate control fan
to work on our 79 XJ6 SIII. It blows on defrost
and sometimes on high but not on auto or low settings. All the easy to
get to fuses are OK. It’s too cold to drive
without climate control. Any suggestions are appreciated.
Kory Krofft
79 XJ6 SIII
64 E-Type Cpe
From: MARK BIALZIK 74312.167@CompuServe.COM
Date: 18 Dec 96 20:30:43 EST
Subject: Re: XJ6 - SIII: tapping noise from engine
My 1985 XJ6 4.2 (88,000 mi.) developed a tapping noise recently. My mechanic
removed the valve cover and discovered a broken metal sleeve (valve lifter).
Unfortunately, metal pieces are circulating throughout my engine. I’m looking
at an engine rebuild or a new engine. My mechanic says he can install a new
engine for around $7,500. A mechanic who read my message posted in the
CompuServe Auto Forum says that new engines are not available and that a rebuild
should cost between $3,500 and $4,500.
I’m most disappointed. I was under the impression that the XK engine was one of
the best. Has anyone else experienced this problem? And, can anyone shed light
on this new vs rebuild dilemna. I’d appreciate advise.
Mark B.
From: Dan Buringrud dano@castles.com
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 17:48:53 -0800
Subject: valve covers
Hello All,
I have a question regarding the valve covers on an early fuel injected
XJ-6. I am putting the head off just such a beast into my 68 E-type.
My mechanic thinks that the covers are different, although they look
exactly the same.
My question is this: Do the XJ6 valve covers have some sort of half moon
cutout at the bottom of the back where the hump for the cam gears are?
The covers on my 68 head are straight here. I don’t want to pay $100
for valve covers, if I don’t have to.
Also, does anyone know if the exhaust manifolds on a 68 would have been
porcelained?
Thanks for your help, and happy holidays to all of you.
Dan Buringrud
68 E type
Dano@castles.com
From: Victor Naumann jagdoc@erols.com
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 20:54:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Sticking throttle
cobac@ix.netcom.com wrote:
At 02:42 PM 12/17/96 -0500, you wrote:
OK - how does one clean it???
And also, where exactly is it located and how do you expose it??
Loosen the hose clamps on the plastic intake air elbow and remove it
from the car. It will probably have some hardened oil residue in the
lower folds of the bellows-remove with a dull screwdriver- careful not
to tear bellows. Best to disconnect throttle and trans cables, four 10mm
bolts hold the housing on.remove and clean with carb cleaner, check gap
at rear edge, .002 . Just inside intake plenum is a small round hole in
the bottom- this is ERG intake to manifold- usually gummed up too. I
stuff some rags behind it in the intake, chip away at the deposits and
blow air through from EGR valve end to make sure it is clear. Make sure
to clean out all debris and remove rags. Reinstall parts and go.
Rergards, Vic
From: Victor Naumann jagdoc@erols.com
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 21:17:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Cat trick #2: Security reset
Could someone please elaborate so I don't have to pay the dealer to tell me something fairly obvious. Thanks. Kane '92 XJ-S
Each year is different, Try disconnecting the battery, wait 1 min.
reconnect the Bat. If the lights flash and sounder beeps every few sec.
you are halfway home. Have all your remotes, security looks for five
signals. You must press each remote at least once and all of them for a
total of five presses. The security should work then.
If the sounder does not sound , you may need to disconnect the security
backup battery next to the sec. ECU and the do the process.
I’ll try to check a manual tomorrow for anything else.
Regards, Vic
From: George Cohn gwcohn@azstarnet.com
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 19:56:53 -0800
Subject: Re: your recent comment in jag-lovers@sn.no
nbutler@brill.acomp.usf.edu wrote:
I wouldn’t flame anybody, but self inflicted pain should not go
unnoticed
You’re really afraid of flashing your passing lights at a fellow jag
owner for fear of a gang related incident??
I wasn’t referring to Jag drivers in particular, only an observation of
what has become a real problem in many American cities.
I’ve seen too many news stories lately about innocent people who
accidently made the wrong gesture or tried to be courteous and alert
someone to the fact that they had their lights off and got shot at for
their efforts.
There was a time when many auto marques could share their pleasure of
meeting a fellow owner. Unfortunately, in some parts of the world, this
is not safely possible any more.
I don’t feel that we should waste any more bandwidth on this issue.
George Cohn
From: Kroppe kroppe@mich.com
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 22:31:39 -0500
Subject: Painting Engine Blocks
Greetings -
I am commencing to paint my 4.2L block and have some questions.
I am following the procedure of prep-rinse-paint. For the prep, I am
using Dupont Metal Conditioner, #5717S, which is an acid etching
conditioner. You apply it with a stiff brush and it really cleans up
the surface rust and whatever other light debris is on the block. I
followed the conditioner with a stiff brush and clear water.
The conditioner leaves behind a white residue, even after brushing the
block with clean water. I wire brushed some of it off, but it seems to
keep re-forming.
My question are these: Can I paint over this residue? Do any list
members have experience with Dupont 5717S?
Thanks as usual for any and all list.wisdom.
B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6 (engine block covered in white residue!?)
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #592
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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 19 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 593
Re: XJ6 - SIII: tapping noise from engine
Re: XJS Surging Solution?
Re: XJ6 - SIII: tapping noise from engine
re: Kirby’s Book & quickie on computers formats
Steering geometry for bump steer
RE: Shocks for 1987 XJ-S
RE: Rear End Vent
RE: Fellowship of the Big Cat
Re: Idling engines.
[Fwd: Re: Fellowship of the Big Cat]
Re: Fellowship of the Big Cat
Re: Macintosh (zilch Jag content)
Re: RE: Fellowship of the Big Cat
RE: Shocks for 1987 XJ-S
Re: XJ6 - SIII: tapping noise from engine
Re: Steering geometry for bump steer
Re: Toward Better Brake Lights
Christmas
Re: Macintosh (zilch Jag content)
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 23:42:08 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ6 - SIII: tapping noise from engine
My 1985 XJ6 4.2 (88,000 mi.) developed a tapping noise recently. My mechanic
removed the valve cover and discovered a broken metal sleeve (valve lifter).
Unfortunately, metal pieces are circulating throughout my engine. I’m looking
at an engine rebuild or a new engine. My mechanic says he can install a new
engine for around $7,500. A mechanic who read my message posted in the
CompuServe Auto Forum says that new engines are not available and that a rebuild
should cost between $3,500 and $4,500.I’m most disappointed. I was under the impression that the XK engine was one of
the best. Has anyone else experienced this problem? And, can anyone shed light
on this new vs rebuild dilemna. I’d appreciate advise.Mark B.
Common enough. You missed the critical beginings of the tapping, when the tappet
guide first started working it’s way up (it broke the tappet guide, BTW, not
the lifter). This is exactly what the stakedown kit is for.
Rebuilt engines (including installation) typically run in the $4K range.
However, what evidence do you have that the entire engine is shot? Yes, the
tappet guide needs to be replaced. If the damage is not too severe, it is
possible to replace it and install the stakedown kit with the head still on
the car. However, I do not recommend such things. Pull the head, do a proper
installation of the guide, and a valve job while you’re in there.
If the engine has had some milage since the guide got broken, I would not be
too concerned about the metal pieces. The big chunks will migrate to the
bottom of the sump, and possibly out during the next oil change. the littlest
ones, the filings that can make it through the pickup strainer, will get
trapped by the oil filter. The biggest danger is the pieces getting caught
up in the timing chains/sprockets on their migration downward.
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 23:20:35 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJS Surging Solution?
Earl Huff wrote (about his XJS)
I removed the auxiliary air valve and tested it in boiling water as
described in
My car is an XJ6 Series III and the extra air valve is controlled by coolant
temperature and an electrical heater. If yours is the same, apply 12V at
…
Just for the record, yet again, the XJS and *** injection is totally different.
The S air valve is water heated only. No airflow meter, either. Different
strategies, different sensing technics. The S system does not directly measure
air flow. It takes engine speed, throttle position, and manifold vacuum as
inputs, and extrapolates how much air is flowing. while the P-Jet hardware
is pretty much unique to the V-12, the same strategy was used in the 80’s
by other makers… most american and Honda. It is a really crude finicky
design.
I do wish Jag had gone a different route. They chose the P-Jet because it
was the only system off the Bosch shelf that was big enough. None of the
direct flow measuring systemscould deal with the air flow of the V-12.
The alternative, though more expensive, I feel would have gotten us a more
reliable and drivable (and maybe even more powerful) V-12… twin
six cylinder L-Jet systems. Or LH-Jet. Or (wish wish) twin Motronics.
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 23:28:49 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ6 - SIII: tapping noise from engine
Tapping noise from the exhaust valve cover seems to be a common complaint for high mileage series III cars. My 82 had a valve job and the hold down kit installed and it makes the tapping noise. Some of the suggested causes were: Loose timing chain Worn valve adjusting shims Shortened valve stems These all checked out OK and I was told to have the head removed and thoroughly gone over. I hope you didn't have to go that far. Do any of the Jag-lovers have any other ideas?
I can think of three common things straight off. Worn tappets. Worn tappet
guides. improperly cut valves such that the shim is resting on the spring
keeper rather than the valve tip.
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
From: Michael Bain mbain@wolfenet.com
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 21:11:17 -0800
Subject: re: Kirby’s Book & quickie on computers formats
“John” == Himes,John W jwh@mime.dw.lucent.com writes:
John> Kirby, if you have some extra time and $$$ to spend, you could
John> purchase one of Adobe’s products [www.adobe.com] ( I believe
John> Frame Maker ) to create a .PDF version of your book. The .PDF
This is a good idea! But those converters are expensive.
I have a converter at work that I could use, if someone could get a
Postscript version of the Book to me.
Michael Bain “When in Doubt, Gas It!!!” mbain@wolfenet.com
We were young and our happiness dazzled us with its strength.
But there was also a terrible betrayal that lay within me like a Merle
Haggard song at a French restaurant. …
I could not tell the girl about the woman of the tollway, of
her milk white BMW and her Jordache smile. There had been a fight. I
had punched her boyfriend, who fought the mechanical bulls. Everyone
told him, “You ride the bull, senor. You do not fight it.” But he was
lean and tough like a bad rib-eye and he fought the bull. And then he
fought me. And when we finished there were no winners, just men doing
what men must do. …
“Stop the car,” the girl said. There was a look of terrible
sadness in her eyes. She knew about the woman of the tollway. I knew
not how. I started to speak, but she raised an arm and spoke with a
quiet and peace I will never forget.
“I do not ask for whom’s the tollway belle,” she said, “the
tollway belle’s for thee.”
The next morning our youth was a memory, and our happiness was
a lie. Life is like a bad margarita with good tequila, I thought as I
poured whiskey onto my granola and faced a new day.
– Peter Applebome, International Imitation Hemingway
Competition
From: Ken Wallace kwallac2@ix.netcom.com
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 23:43:41 -0800
Subject: Steering geometry for bump steer
Randy Wilson wrote:
"…the easiest way to deal with these situation is to place the teirod in
the same >horizontal plane as one of the control arms… such that the
height percentage is >either 0 or 100. The inner pivot is put directly
behind the inner pivot axis of one >control arem, and the outer pivot is put
an equal distance behind the ball joint, on a >line parallel to the inner axis.
If I understand the above correctly, the length of the XJ6 rack would have
to be equal to the distance between the inner pivots. This certainly makes
sense in order not to induce steering changes as the suspension moves.
I purchased an XJ6 rack and pinion for my Mk2. It measures around 24 inches
long. The distance between the pivots on the XJ6 is somewhat larger than
this. On the Mk2 it is 30 inches. The XJ has an even wider track. How can
we explain this?
I went to the parts store and noticed that quite a few cars are equipped
with rack and pinion systems that allow the tie rods to eminate from the
center of the rack rather than the ends as with the XJ6 unit. This would
not conform to the requirements you outline. It may be that if the tie rods
are long enough the bump steer is small enough to be tollerable, but it is
hard to see why the designers would choose this option when conventional
rack and pinion system are available.
I am planning to design my own mounts and I would like to get it right the
first time.
I really appreciate all the input I have received on this subject. I hope
that the design I come up with will benefit others who wish to make this
change to their Mk2s.
Ken Wallace
From: “Stephen Stewart” SAPLSTEWART@msn.com
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 96 11:32:51 UT
Subject: RE: Shocks for 1987 XJ-S
Thomas,
I replaced my shocks with Gabriel brand, a cheaper replacement type, and had
excellent ride/handling for at least 1 month. Then they went soft and I
replaced
2 of them via warranty but have now decided that I will pay the extra and put
Bilsteins or Monroes on next time (soon).
You get what you pay for!
regards
Steve
81 xjs he
4 kids hence cheap shocks
From: owner-jag-lovers@sn.no on behalf of Thomas Alberts
Sent: Wednesday, 18 December 1996 6:37
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Shocks for 1987 XJ-S
I am thinking of replacing all 6 shocks on my 1987 XJ-S.
The car has 140k on it, and 60k of that I put on myself.
I am guessing that the shocks have 90k minimum and probably
140k on them. I hear a clunk sound on sharp bumps ocassionally
which I think could be the shocks. I’ve been getting uneven
front tire wear in spite of repeated alignments. I don’t
see any oil leaking out of them, but the shock mounts look
extremely old and worn.
Welsh has all 6 shocks in the Woodhead brand name for $188.
I understand that this is a “budget” replacement for the
originals. Hal Rogers tells me this is a good price, but
indicates that I may be disappointed in the performance of
these.
Hal can sell me a set of 6 Boge shocks for $333.
SICP says they are out of stock on any brand shock for
my car!
Would anyone car to offer some informed advice on 1.) whether
I ought to be replacing these shocks, and 2.) if yes, then
is it worth it to go Boge, or 3.) do you recommend other
brands and why?
Thomas E. Alberts
From: “Stephen Stewart” SAPLSTEWART@msn.com
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 96 11:38:28 UT
Subject: RE: Rear End Vent
I dont have a vent on mine and its an 81. May be something to think about
fitting.
regards
Steve
This past Saturday, I was having new rear shock absorbers
installed on my 88 H & E XJ-S… We thought that we may have a
“plugged” vent on the rear of my car, but we could find no vent.
Is the rear end vented on this car?
There’s a vent on my '83! It’s obvious – a 90 degree fitting with a
tube pointing upward.
– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate
From: “Stephen Stewart” SAPLSTEWART@msn.com
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 96 11:44:25 UT
Subject: RE: Fellowship of the Big Cat
Jan,
If ever you are in Melbourne I will gladly wave to you.
Maybe Sydney Jag drivers arent as responsive as the rest of us?
regards
Steve
(Melbourne)
81 XJS HE
By way of an interesting little informal study in sociology, I have now for
two months greeted all Jaguar drivers I meet on the road. Out of the grand
total of 330 (lots of Jags in the North of Sydney), one (1) responded, and
he looked awfully surprised.
So what conclusions do we draw?
a. They’re not really Jag-lovers, just a bunch of prestige seekers.
b. Jag drivers are so uptight about malicious damage that they don’t see
any car out of striking range
c. Jag drivers are so totally absorbed in their pleasure that they don’t
see anything
d. I don’t know the secret hand-sign of the Fellowship of the Big Cat…
From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 10:18:15 -0800
Subject: Re: Idling engines.
To Mike Bittner (and others),
I’m not sure why, but ever since I was a little boy mocking about in my fathers
workshop (ship repairs), I’ve heard that one of the worst things you can do to
an engine, is to fire it up and let it idle for several minutes thereafter. I
assume it has to do with lubrication; the engine will not lubricate properly
from stand-still until it’s put under load. Naturally, engines may differ in
this respect, but I’ve made a habit of minimizing the tick-over period in all my
cars.
For those of you leaving on X-mas holiday this week, across the Globe:
Merry Christmas and a Prosperous New Year!
We’re going up to our mountain cabin (chalet) the day after boxing day, and stay
there the rest of the year, but I’m not signing off until Monday week.
Best regards,
Bard
______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no
From: John Littler jcl0004@ibm.net
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 22:41:33 +1000
Subject: [Fwd: Re: Fellowship of the Big Cat]
Statistically insignificant sample I’ll admit, but on the way home
this evening I waved to all the jags I saw
-
- MK2 (beautifully restored) Big Grin and a wave (looked rather
suprised though)
- MK2 (beautifully restored) Big Grin and a wave (looked rather
-
- Series 2 - bemused look and a half wave (didn’t seem too sure if
she really ought to be waving to strange men)
- Series 2 - bemused look and a half wave (didn’t seem too sure if
-
- XJ40 puzzled frown (do I know you ?)
-
- S1 or 2 (pulled along side of, so not sure) eyes fixed straight
ahead didn’t (didn’t want to ?) see me
- S1 or 2 (pulled along side of, so not sure) eyes fixed straight
- -S3 totally ignored me
Heavens knows what it means. I’ll second the motion that the secret
handshake must be emptying your wallet though :-).
A similar thing happened with Harley Davidson - 10 years ago if you
passed a Harley rider you’d always wave and he’d wave back
ALWAYS.Nowadays (and no I don’t have one anymore) 2/3rds are owned by yuppie
w***kers who are too full of themselves to acknowledge anyone else’s
existence.
John
'84 SIII XJ6
By way of an interesting little informal study in sociology, I
have
now for
two months greeted all Jaguar drivers I meet on the road. Out of
the grand
total of 330 (lots of Jags in the North of Sydney), one (1)
responded, and
he looked awfully surprised.So what conclusions do we draw?
a. They’re not really Jag-lovers, just a bunch of prestige
seekers.
b. Jag drivers are so uptight about malicious damage that they
don’t see
any car out of striking range
c. Jag drivers are so totally absorbed in their pleasure that
they
don’t
see anything
d. I don’t know the secret hand-sign of the Fellowship of the
Big
Cat…
From: Peter Brown pbro@onaustralia.com.au
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 23:16:16 +1100
Subject: Re: Fellowship of the Big Cat
Jan,
You could have just about doubled your response rate if you’d run into
us. However I’m the poor slob on the inside of a bus looking longingly
out at the Jags. Your suggested conclusions are valid. But don’t forget:
- Going too fast
- Concentrating on counting the Jags they’ve seen today
- Watching the gauges (Oh Lord please don’t go above ‘Normal’)
- Challenged eyesight and reflexes due to age and watching gauges
- Eyes glazed over as gold drops $5
Regards
Peter
Jan Wikstr�m wrote:
By way of an interesting little informal study in sociology, I have now for
two months greeted all Jaguar drivers I meet on the road. Out of the grand
total of 330 (lots of Jags in the North of Sydney), one (1) responded, and
he looked awfully surprised.So what conclusions do we draw?
a. They’re not really Jag-lovers, just a bunch of prestige seekers.
b. Jag drivers are so uptight about malicious damage that they don’t see
any car out of striking range
c. Jag drivers are so totally absorbed in their pleasure that they don’t
see anything
d. I don’t know the secret hand-sign of the Fellowship of the Big Cat…
From: “Alastair Lauener” a.lauener@napier.ac.uk
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 96 14:04:38 gmt
Subject: Re: Macintosh (zilch Jag content)
Hey, I use a real computer! As a result, I don’t know anything about
Macintoshes
As I said somewhere else recently, I use the Jaguar of the computer world, a
Macintosh. I don’t like using primitive machinery.
someone here who DOES know Macintoshes could write a text
file on how to view/print my XJ-S help book on a Mac.
Without appearing flippant I hope, exactly the same method. Anyone with a
Macintosh will have unzip software. I unzip it, and use it. Damned good book
it is too, never decided if I want the XJ-S to go with it
Sorry folks, (Nick), won’t mention Macintoshes again in the same message as
Chevy V8
Everybody have a good holiday
Alastair Lauener
64 S-Type
From: Mark Stiles ittmjs@staffs.ac.uk
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 14:25:21 +0100
Subject: Re: RE: Fellowship of the Big Cat
My experiences in the UK, where Jags are, quite frankly, common,
is that if I, as a driver of a modern(ish) model, greet the driver
of a really classic Jag (eg Series 2) they are pleased and
respond. If you tried to greet all Jags drivers you would drive
around waving and flashing (rather frequently) at people who would
think:
“Have I left my lights on?”
“What’s he waving at - do I know him?”
“I haven’t done anything wrong - whats that idiot on about?”
Jags drivers are usually very willing to talk to each other in car
parks though!
Mark
Mark Stiles
90 Daimler 4.0 (100K)
Stafford, UK
From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 15:51:51 +0100
Subject: RE: Shocks for 1987 XJ-S
I bought Monroe Gas-Matics for my '86 SIII XJ6 and am very pleased with
them.
Gunnar
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar XJ6 Sovereign
4.2
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | Vicki who? What .sig virus?
-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen Stewart [SMTP:SAPLSTEWART@msn.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 1996 12:33 PM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: RE: Shocks for 1987 XJ-SThomas,
I replaced my shocks with Gabriel brand, a cheaper replacement type, and had
excellent ride/handling for at least 1 month. Then they went soft and I
replaced
2 of them via warranty but have now decided that I will pay the extra and put
Bilsteins or Monroes on next time (soon).
You get what you pay for!
From: thomas_guadagni@fmc.com (THOMAS GUADAGNI)
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 13:05:09 -0600
Subject: Re: XJ6 - SIII: tapping noise from engine
-
–IMA.Boundary.348259058
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Description: cc:Mail note partNorman
Tapping noise from the exhaust valve cover seems to be a common
complaint for high mileage series III cars. My 82 had a valve job and
the hold down kit installed and it makes the tapping noise. Some of
the suggested causes were:Loose timing chain
Worn valve adjusting shims
Shortened valve stems
These all checked out OK and I was told to have the head removed and
thoroughly gone over. I hope you didn’t have to go that far.Do any of the Jag-lovers have any other ideas?
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: XJ6 - SIII: tapping noise from engine
Author: Norman Angerhofer angerhof@ptc.com at Internet
Date: 12/4/96 10:01 AM
I recently purchased a 1985 Series III XJ6 locally. After fixing
major oil leaks, I have been test driving it, and notice there is
a tapping noise coming from the engine. It appears to come from
under the exhaust camshaft cover, but when I use the screwdriver
stethoscope :-), I do not hear any distinctly louder areas.
The former owner (restores old Jags for a living) says he did a valve
job a while back; but as I have found loose bolts on exhause manifold
and breather cover, I am wondering if he was careful to set the tappet
clearances.
My questions:
Does this sound like a valve clearance problem? Is it an easy job to
check and redo the clearances? What other areas should be checked?
Could the noise also be caused by overtightening the camshaft cover nuts?
I checked in the Haynes manual, and among suggested possibilities are
valve clearances and worn timing chain.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
- –Norman Angerhofer
angerhof@ptc.com - –IMA.Boundary.348259058
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From: Norman Angerhofer angerhof@ptc.com
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Reply-To: angerhof@ptc.com
Subject: XJ6 - SIII: tapping noise from engine
Sender: owner-jag-lovers@sn.no
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- –IMA.Boundary.348259058–
From: “Kirbert” palmk@gcn.scri.fsu.edu
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 10:26:33 -0005
Subject: Re: Steering geometry for bump steer
Ken Wallace:
If I understand the above correctly, the length of the XJ6 rack
would have to be equal to the distance between the inner pivots.
Not necessarily. That would only be true if the connection point at
the end of the steering arm on the upright were in the same plane as
the ball joints. However, this connection point is often INWARD of
the ball joints, so the rack has to be SHORTER than the distance
between the inner pivots so the tie rods are the correct length.
– Kirbert | If anything is to be accomplished,
| some rules must be broken.
| - Palm’s Postulate
From: Kevin.Campbell@vwr-inc.com
Date: Thursday, 19 December 1996 7:33am PT
Subject: Re: Toward Better Brake Lights
how hard they are braking.
Interestingly enough a chap I used to work for tried to patent a
device to do just this, about 16 years ago. He was turned down
because they didn’t believe it would ever be a feasible device. I
believe he was thinking of variable intensity lights.
Kevin
From: dneufeld@sanac.usiu.edu
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 06:46:57 -0800
Subject: Christmas
I dare to ask this question only in light of the yuletide season, realizing
that I may still incur the wrath of those of you who have heard it for th
umteenth time - how do I gain access to the historical digests for this list?
Waiting with my arms over my head in a protective position Don thanks
From: nikolaic@im.wustl.edu (Nikolai Chitaev)
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 10:01:50 -0600
Subject: Re: Macintosh (zilch Jag content)
someone here who DOES know Macintoshes could write a text
file on how to view/print my XJ-S help book on a Mac.
In case someone still need it…
- Download Kirbi
s book from any URL avaiable (Niks or Kirbi`s own). - Configure or don
t your WWW Browser (Netscape or something) to handle *.zip for SuffIt Expander. If you dont, then on brouser`s prompt “Pick
applicaton” = SuffIt Expander. - You`ll be getting Simple Text doc. which then could be opend by any
Doc.editing application (Word Perfect). You are done.
P.S. This not in case the “XJ6 Book”. That one is written in Word for
Windows format. The resourse forks are missing after you Unstuff it. I, at
least, was not able to convert it in any other readable format on the Mac.
Nikolai A. Chitaev, PhD.
<<87`XJ6 4.2L, EFI, BRG>>
{nikolaic@im.wustl.edu}
{http://128.252.119.253}
St.Louis, Missouri, USA
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Subject: jag-lovers-digest V2 #594
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jag-lovers-digest Thursday, 19 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 594
STALLING OF XJ6
'84 XJ-6 Wheel Hub wanted
MK II Lower Ball joints
your recent comment
Re: Macintosh (zilch Jag content)
A little Jag content - how to prevent flat batteries ?
Re: your recent comment in jag-lovers@sn.no
Used XJ40 radio source?
Re: Kirby’s Book & quickie on computers formats
Crane Electronic Ignition System
Re: XJ6 - SIII: tapping noise from engine
2 new MK1 pictures 4U
Re: Christmas
The first E-Type (self-indulgent BS)
Re: your recent comment
RE: A little Jag content - how to prevent flat batteries ?
Re: A little Jag content - how to prevent flat batteries ?
Re: Shocks for 1987 XJ-S
RE: A little Jag content - how to prevent flat batteries ?
proud new owner
From: Dan Jensen Dan.Jensen@GAT.COM
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 08:08:30 -0800
Subject: STALLING OF XJ6
Mike:
I had a similar problem of random stalling of my '81 XJ6 (~100,000 miles on
the car at the time). After one such incident in a line of traffic, I lifted
the hood and inadvertently bumped the airflow meter. I heard the butterfly
close and was able to restart the engine. I finished my trip, but on the way
home (after several more unplanned stops), I purchased a replacement airflow
meter ($400). I had no problems after that. I recall that I was able to feel
the “stickiness” of the butterfly on the unit I replaced. My daughter had a
very similar problem with her 280ZX.
Dan Jensen, San Diego, CA
'81 & '83 XJ6
'84 XJS
From: Tom Luke tluke@tritech-kc.com
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 10:20:13 -0600 (CST)
Subject: '84 XJ-6 Wheel Hub wanted
Does anyone in the US have a line of a used front wheel hub for an '84 XJ-6.
Last week the bearing on the left front froze up on the highway and trashed
the hub before I could pull off. I’m in the midwest area. TIA
Tom
From: jwbeckmeye@198.108.150.254
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 11:28:31 -0500
Subject: MK II Lower Ball joints
Hi all…and happy holiday!!
There was a post some time ago from a MK II owner who was having trouple
getting things apart while trying to do a lower BJ rebuild using a kit. I
believe it was a problem getting the RAILKO socket out of the cap.
Unfortunately, I lost the post. If you haven’t solved the problem yet,
please drop an email to me and I’ll tell you what worked for me.
Best regards,
Jim Beckmeyer
Union City, MI
90 Jaguar Sovereign
60 Jag MK II
jwbeckmeye@orion.branch-co.lib.mi.us
From: jwbeckmeye@198.108.150.254
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 11:28:29 -0500
Subject: your recent comment
When was the last time you saw, heard of, of had even the slightest
support for the notion that gang members drive jags??
Ever been to Detroit? “Successful” gang members and pimps seem to like
Jags. True!~
Best regards,
Jim Beckmeyer
Union City, MI
90 Jaguar Sovereign
60 Jag MK II
jwbeckmeye@orion.branch-co.lib.mi.us
From: Lenny Seidman lseidman@erols.com
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 11:00:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Macintosh (zilch Jag content)
Alastair Lauener wrote:
Hey, I use a real computer! As a result, I don’t know anything about
MacintoshesAs I said somewhere else recently, I use the Jaguar of the computer world, a
Macintosh. I don’t like using primitive machinery.someone here who DOES know Macintoshes could write a text
file on how to view/print my XJ-S help book on a Mac.Without appearing flippant I hope, exactly the same method. Anyone with a
Macintosh will have unzip software. I unzip it, and use it. Damned good book
it is too, never decided if I want the XJ-S to go with it
Where can I find this book? at what web site?
Lenny Seidman
Elkins Park, Pennsylvania, USA
email: lseidman@erols.com
From: Graham Watson grahamw@microsoft.com
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 08:38:19 -0800
Subject: A little Jag content - how to prevent flat batteries ?
Last night, at midnight, I was left in the Railway station car park with
just my Jaguar (with flat battery) for company. I finally got a
jump-start of somebody two hours later. And all because I left the
interior light on for about eighteen hours, and have an automatic (no
push-starts).
Does anybody know of a product which can disconnect the battery if it
starts to run flat, so that there is always enough left to turn the
engine over. If so, where can I get one, if not, anybody wanna have a go
at making one ?
Merry Christmas,
Graham
From: David J Shield David_J_Shield@ccm.fm.intel.com
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 96 08:42:00 PST
Subject: Re: your recent comment in jag-lovers@sn.no
Guys,
Can we retreat from the flame wars, and just focus on Jags,
E-types, and fellowship (and any other pertinent fun stuff)?
Pardon me, but this is degenerating....
Thanks,
David
'70 2+2 - parts are back from powder coating, the heater box
looks great (to me), the frame will hopefully get painted this
weekend, the engine is detailed except the intake manifold which
is off for polishing..... I will not be driving this car on
Christmas day
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: your recent comment in jag-lovers@sn.no
Author: owner-xke-lovers@mailhost.azstarnet.com at SMTPGATE
From: paul r martin martinpr@secis.com
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 12:02:34 -0800
Subject: Used XJ40 radio source?
I hope I did not send this more that one time.
WYSNER MOTORS & SALVAGE 1 800 840 5140 ask for
Mark or Brian They have several Jags. please
use my name Paul Martin . They have a 1996 xjs
with fresh water flood . runs & drives $37500 US >
From: Curt Onstott onstottc@ucs.orst.edu
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 09:08:55 -0800
Subject: Re: Kirby’s Book & quickie on computers formats
Good response John. I hope there isn’t anyone on the list who has a Mac
or PC with a Chevy lump in it…
Himes,John W. wrote:
Can we please keep the PC/MAC/UNIX/Other wars somewhere else. I would hate
to read through the same thing again as we had on various other non Jag
topics. ( Of course, here is my little bit ) There was a repeat on PBS –
- -Pessimist: “This ship is sinking.” -Optimist: “This ship is half full.”
Curt Onstott - Windows/DOS/PC Specialist - Information Services -
Oregon
State University. - (541) 737-1483 - Office: Kerr 217
From: radiowsh@mindport.net (Vincent Chrzanowski)
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 17:18:28 GMT
Subject: Crane Electronic Ignition System
=46or those who have expressed an interest in the Crane Cam (formerly
Allison) electronic ignition system, I just received a J.C. Whitney
sale catalog which offers the aforementioned unit for $79.95.
The part number is 78LR4348WF in catalog #92JD. And I was wondering
what I would get my Mark 9 for Christmas…
Vince
Vince Chrzanowski radiowsh@mindport.net
“There is not a moment to be lost” - Jack Aubrey
From: Curt Onstott onstottc@ucs.orst.edu
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 09:20:53 -0800
Subject: Re: XJ6 - SIII: tapping noise from engine
I’m having a similar problem on my Series II Xj6. It started doing this
about 400 miles after I rebuilt the engine. I determined that the noise
was coming from cylinder 4 on the exhaust side. I had staked down the
exhaust side tappet guides. I pulled the ignition wire from number 4
and found that no power was being produced from that cylinder and the
tapping noise was not affected.
I pulled that tappet cover and found that the clearance between the
tappet and cam was 0 and the valve was not closing. I found that the
clearance had changed by about .30!! I ground down a shim and set the
clearance correctly. Now the cylinder produces power, but the noise is
still there. However, pulling the ignition wire makes the noise stop.
I have a new exhaust valve, seat and gasket set ready to install and
plan on pulling the head in January to determine exacly what is wrong.
- -Pessimist: “This ship is sinking.” -Optimist: “This ship is half full.”
Curt Onstott - Windows/DOS/PC Specialist - Information Services -
Oregon
State University. - (541) 737-1483 - Office: Kerr 217
From: Ryan Border rborder@hpspls16.cup.hp.com
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 09:31:44 -0800 (PST)
Subject: 2 new MK1 pictures 4U
Merry Christmas Everyone,
I have a couple of new pics for your viewing pleasure. Earlier this
week I bought myself an early christmas present: Adobe Photoshop. As an
early experiment with it, I took two pictures I had (one of the rear
interior, one of the front interior) and created a single composite
image. It’s not perfect… but it’s not too bad either. You can find
it at:
http://www.best.com/~border/pages/jag/images/intcomp.jpg
The pictures were obviously taken before the installation of my Mota
Lita wood rimmed steering wheel; other than that it’s a pretty good
representation of what my interior looks like.
So you can truly appreciate it, I’ve also got a picture of the interior
that was taken shortly after I drove the car home from the bodyshop at:
http://www.best.com/~border/pages/jag/images/mess.jpg
Too much typing?
Just go to: BestWeb.com - Lease or Buy Domain Names - Best Web Limited
Click the Jaguar logo on the left
Click “Pictures” (near the top of the Jag page)
And click the thumbnails you want to look at
===== __ ============================================================== |> ===
/_\ Ryan Border o~_ o~_ | *
/ / / Hewlett Packard Company, Inc. >/-.>/’ /o| *
/ / / _______ Software Design Engineer ( )-–(*)-( )’ *
/ / //_____\ email: rborder@cup.hp.com or border@best.com *
/ / __ / / __ / 19111 Pruneridge Ave. mailstop 42LX, Cupertino, CA 95014 *
/ / / / / / // / (408) 447-2496 FAX: (408) 447-0641 *
//// / _____/ WWW: BestWeb.com - Lease or Buy Domain Names - Best Web Limited *
===== / / / ==================================================================
//
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 17:17:49 +0100
Subject: Re: Christmas
[ dneufeld@sanac.usiu.edu ]
| I dare to ask this question only in light of the yuletide season, realizing
| that I may still incur the wrath of those of you who have heard it for th
| umteenth time - how do I gain access to the historical digests for this list?
| Waiting with my arms over my head in a protective position Don thanks
http://home.sn.no/home/nick/archive.html
Not fully up to date, sorry. This years files can also be
requested from majordomo@sn.no, just send it a message
with help in the body of the message and read how to get
them.
Nick
Nick Johannessen // nick@sn.no // http://www.sn.no/home/nick/
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 13:09:20 -0500 (EST)
Subject: The first E-Type (self-indulgent BS)
New York City has a reputation among people who don’t live here. Some call
it mean, others fast-paced, others call it exciting and others glamorous.
For those of us who grew up here it was just a place to live, like any other.
I grew up in the Bronx. The Bronx is one of the ‘outer boroughs’, which is
what we call anything which isn’t within a 20 minute walk of Rockefeller
Center (real New Yorkers are very provincial). It was named for a Dutch
settler, Jonas Bronck. The ‘the’ in the Bronx is a bit of a mystery. One
observer noted that places where the British fought battles tend to have the
‘the’ honorarium. For example, the Indies, the Sudan, etc (the Colonial Army
fought a holding action in the Bronx during the Revolution).
The Bronx is the home of the New York Yankees, Fordham University, and about
a million people. Most folks live in small apartment buildings, though some
live in two-family houses. Very few have private houses. It used to be that
New York University’s uptown campus was located there as well, but this is
long gone.
When I was a kid, the Bronx was a working class bedroom community (not that
different today). Sort of a pre-suburb. Our fathers woke up each morning,
got on the subway, and went to work. Our mothers did the shopping. This was
the 50’s.
In 1961, I could look down my block and see a line of cars parked at the
curb (nobody had a garage, of course). Most of these cars were built by the
Jalopy company. I don’t know when this company went out of business, but
they produced an incredible number of vehicles. As late as 1961, most of the
families on my block still owned Jalopies. Someday the automotive press
needs to do a retrospective on these fine cars.
The cars on my block were all grey. Not that they started out that way. But
acid rain quickly deteriorated the primitive paint finishes of the day,
leaving nothing but a dull grey scum. Blues became purple. Reds became
brown. And eventually everything was grey. These cars were also BIG. One of
the major rites of passage was learning how to lift yourself onto a car
fender. The better cars could accomodate four or five kids sitting on a
front fender.
Automotive tastes of the fifties and early sixties seem curious today. Cars
which were as large as houses were coveted by rational adults. Fins and
chrome were everywhere, although the chrome quickly developed a rusty cheese
grater texture. The ex-WW2 tank driver who lived down stairs drove a Willys
Jeepster (holy Toledo, what a car!). Gordon up the block got envious stares
in his winged Chrysler 300 letter car. The Van Loessers’s had a stodgy '56
Pontiac, in tu-tone arsenic green. The corner boys cast hungry eyes on old
man Foster’s Double-H Hudson (with the step-down sill). Debbie’s father
drove one of those little Corvairs. This was the first new car on the block,
but everyone agreed that it had no class (too small). My old man drove a
'53 Chrysler New Yorker (Firepower Hemi!), a real class act.
1961 was an exciting year in the Bronx. No, we weren’t electrified by the
news from Jaguar. Most of us had never seen a Jaguar, nor could we afford
the price of an auto magazine. What made the year exciting was typical
American stuff: A young new President in Washington, rock n roll, and the
emerging youth culture. The Bronx was mesmerized by a Yankee team that could
do no wrong. Mickey and Roger were knocking them out of the park…everyone
had a home run ball, signed by their favorite player (what ever happened to
my…). On the radio, while the rest of the country was Twisting, the Bronx
was listening to home town favorites Dion and the Belmonts and Bobby Darrin,
broadcast on WMCA from the Flying Saucer at Freedomland. A huge blizzard
that winter found me conducting a snowball war from the shelter of my
brother’s '57 Plymouth, which spread its wings above me like a guardian angel.
But it was already on its way.
Up the block, someone had fallen in love with a picture in a magazine. The
order had gone out immediately, but the car took forever to arrive. It was
the spring of '62 when it finally appeared. A bright red XKE roadster. The
day it arrived, he drove it home, and parked it on the street with the top
down. In a world where kids learned about hot-wiring before they learned to
read (sometimes instead of), there was no fear of theft. This was not a
Hudson, a Studebaker, or a DeSoto. This was a masterpiece, a beautiful red
jelly bean in a jar of elephants. No one would touch it. We gathered around
it in awed silence.
We had never seen such a car, not in this neighborhood. I had once seen a
Volkswagen on Fordham Road, and we had had a good laugh about it. We had
heard about Rolls-Royces. My brother flirted with a spindly-wheeled MG-TF,
but it just didn’t fit his leather jacketed image. On TV, we admired the
Corvette on Route 66. But this was different. It was loud, even with the
engine off. It was fast, even standing still. Mostly, it was sitting there
right in front of us. A strange visitor from another planet, with powers and
abilities far beyond those of mortal Jalopies.
It was repo’d later that year, the story of a lot of lives in the old
neighborhood. A desperate love affair, ending in tragedy. “It’s gone”, we
said, and no one had to ask what “it” was.
In time, we would become richer, and pastel Mustangs and orange Cougars
would pop up along the curb. Eventually, we all grew up, got jobs, and
bought a piece of suburbia. But we were never as well off as the year that
Roger eclipsed the Babe, and when the Cat From Heaven came to visit for a
while…
Mike Frank
1969 E-Type 2+2
From: hdrsons@iamerica.net (Hal Rogers)
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 1996 11:41:13 -0700
Subject: Re: your recent comment
At 11:28 AM 12/19/96 -0500, jwbeckmeye@198.108.150.254 wrote:
When was the last time you saw, heard of, of had even the slightest
support for the notion that gang members drive jags??Ever been to Detroit? “Successful” gang members and pimps seem to like
Jags. True!~
I even knew of (didn’t know him personally!) a fellow that had a RR Silver
Shadow that was a drug smuggler! But I believe he got apprehended several
years ago…probably out on probation or something!
Hal
Hal Rogers
H.D. Rogers & Sons
Import Auto Specialists
3418 Barksdale Blvd.
Bossier City LA 71112
(318) 742-3651 voice
(318) 742-5044 fax
Serving Auto Enthusiasts since 1959
From: “Connie Vloutely” connie_vloutely@macmail.git.gulfaero.com
Date: 19 Dec 1996 13:16:39 -0500
Subject: RE: A little Jag content - how to prevent flat batteries ?
Hi Graham,
Sorry to hear about your problem. This happened to me once I left the
headlights on and locked the car.
Sears & Roebuck use to make something simular to what you need. I do not know
if they still offer it for sale.
Good luck…
Merry Chrismas Connie.
From: Graham Watson on Thu, Dec 19, 1996 02:02 PM
Subject: A little Jag content - how to prevent flat batteries ?
To: ‘jag-lovers(a)sn.no’
Last night, at midnight, I was left in the Railway station car park with
just my Jaguar (with flat battery) for company. I finally got a
jump-start of somebody two hours later. And all because I left the
interior light on for about eighteen hours, and have an automatic (no
push-starts).
Does anybody know of a product which can disconnect the battery if it
starts to run flat, so that there is always enough left to turn the
engine over. If so, where can I get one, if not, anybody wanna have a go
at making one ?
Merry Christmas,
Graham
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From: Graham Watson grahamw@microsoft.com
To: “‘jag-lovers(a)sn.no’” jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: A little Jag content - how to prevent flat batteries ?
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 08:38:19 -0800
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From: “Lee Walden” lwalden@ebmud.com
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 10:49:37 -0800
Subject: Re: A little Jag content - how to prevent flat batteries ?
It should be easy enough to make one. Pick some “cut-off” voltage.
Install a Heavy Duty Relay in the primary power lead. Connect the power
for the relay through a voltage divider circuit so that when the voltage
“hits” the selected cut-off voltage, the relay de-energizes, removing all
power from the car. Problem is you’ll have to reprogram everything, and
install a reset circuit to allow you to start the car.
Second solution is to install the circuit in the lamp and accessories
feeds. This way the ECM will remain powered. Problem is a lot of time the
accessories circuit includes the interior lights, alarm, sometimes the
radio, so you’ll still need to re-program the radio.
Third way: Measure the total current load of the car with everything off,
(normal steady state - lights off, radio off, ecm still powered etc).
Install an alarm that sounds if the key is off, and the current exceeds the
steady state value for some fixed period of time. Put a timer on the alarm
to kill the primary circuit if not “reset” within 5 mins. This way you
have some time to “correct” the system draining the battery.
From: Graham Watson grahamw@microsoft.com
Does anybody know of a product which can disconnect the battery if it
starts to run flat, so that there is always enough left to turn the
engine over. If so, where can I get one, if not, anybody wanna have a go
at making one ?Merry Christmas,
Graham
From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 14:02:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Shocks for 1987 XJ-S
I tried the woodhead shocks on my XJS and was not very impressed.
Julian Mullaney
In a message dated 96-12-17 14:42:18 EST, talberts@aero.odu.edu (Thomas
Alberts) writes:
<< Welsh has all 6 shocks in the Woodhead brand name for $188.
I understand that this is a “budget” replacement for the
originals. Hal Rogers tells me this is a good price, but
indicates that I may be disappointed in the performance of
these. >>
From: “Scott Jarvis” scott@telonics.com
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 12:14:43 -0700
Subject: RE: A little Jag content - how to prevent flat batteries ?
-
- how to prevent flat batteries ?
Ac Delco and Sears makes a battery with a switch for reserve starting =
capacity.=20
Also, you can order a Battery Buddy from Outer Banks (800) 682-2225 part =
batbud. It mounts to the side of your battery and monitors the =
voltage. When the voltage drops below a set level, it automatically =
switches off to preserve the battery. You just reset a breaker and away =
you go! Many of the Boating catalogs should carry this and you may find =
a better price.
Happy Holidays
Scott@Telonics.com
83 XJ6
From: MBrewerii@aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 14:29:45 -0500
Subject: proud new owner
Hey now hey now,
I joined your wonderful group here about a week ago. I was looking for info
about jags before I took the plunge. I recieved some wonderful info and some
very friendly replies. I’m happy to say that I’m now the very proud owner of
an 85’ XJ6 SIII. Got a great deal and the car is in primo shape. Hopefuly
it’ll stay that way for a while as I can’t afford to realy take it to the
shop. Luckily I can turn a wrench a bit.
As for all the folks that are too happy to notice your presence I say f*%$
‘em I have enough friends. (hope that doesn’t offend too many) I live in the
Monterey, CA area and there are more jags around here than you could imagine.
I love the true down to earth type folks who love their cars for what they
are and not for the amount of well you know the bs they go through to make
themselves look good. You can’t polish a turd!
So here I am. I now own a jag, lookin for a new Harley as I recently sold my
last one and my 52’Triumph tbird. Anyone lookin for a 68’ chebby El camino?
Got one of those too. I just love CLASSICS!
Hey before I go heres a tech question. The Cruise control isn’t workin and I
have’n’t picked up a manual yet…and quick little checks or easy
fixes…fuses…loose stuff…ect to look for befor I just up and start
spendin’ greenbacks?
Hey thanks alot you are all great!
Have a merry happy all the holidays & be seein’ ya on the road and wavin’
too!
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #594
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Message-Id: 199612200349.EAA08873@ekeberg.sn.no
From: @owner-jag-lovers-di1
To: jag-lovers-digest@sn.no
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X-Newsgroups: mail.jag-lovers-digest
jag-lovers-digest Friday, 20 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 595
Re: A little Jag content - how to prevent flat batteries ?
Re: The first E-Type (self-indulgent BS)
XJ40 Road Vibration
RE: A little Jag content - how to prevent flat batteries ?
Hood Pops open! SII XJ6
Gas-matic Shock/Squeaky Column
Jan Wikstroem
Re: The first E-Type (self-indulgent BS)
Re: Macintosh (zilch Jag content)
RE: A little Jag content - how to prevent flat batteries ?
Common everyday cars.
RE: Gas-matic Shock/Squeaky Column
Re: A little Jag content - how to prevent flat batteries ?
Re: A little Jag content - how to prevent flat batteries ?
FW: Gas-matic Shock/Squeaky Column
Injection systems
Buying an XJ40 Sovereign.
Buying an XJ40 Sovereign.
Re: XJS Vibrations and HE intro date
Re: Searchable Archives!?
Re: Steering Geometry for Bump Steer
From: Cliff Sadler ata@netsrq.com
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 14:27:14 -0500
Subject: Re: A little Jag content - how to prevent flat batteries ?
Check in one of the boat equipment magazines for this type of device.
It connects to the side of the battery/case, and monitors for low
voltage.
Boats/US, West Marine, etc.
Graham Watson wrote:
Last night, at midnight, I was left in the Railway station car park with
just my Jaguar (with flat battery) for company. I finally got a
jump-start of somebody two hours later. And all because I left the
interior light on for about eighteen hours, and have an automatic (no
push-starts).Does anybody know of a product which can disconnect the battery if it
starts to run flat, so that there is always enough left to turn the
engine over. If so, where can I get one, if not, anybody wanna have a go
at making one ?Merry Christmas,
Graham
From: Lenny Seidman lseidman@erols.com
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 14:46:55 -0500
Subject: Re: The first E-Type (self-indulgent BS)
Michael Frank wrote:
New York City has a reputation among people who don’t live here. Some call it …
Mike,
What a great story. Are you a writer?
I grew up in a section of Philadelphia PA similar to your Bronx and yes
on my street someone had also purchased a Jaguar E-Type. It was not a
new one, it was 2 years old when purchased and yes it was red roadster.
It also was gone within a year because the young man who bought it could
not maintain it himself and the mechanics bills were just too expensive
for him to bear.
Another familiar sight in our neighborhood was the local pizza delivery
boy. He had saved every cent he made at the pizza palor and eventually
bought himself a brand new 1965 E-Type in grey with red interior to
deliver pizzas in. Every weekend he would be driving all through the
neighborhood delivering hot pizzas!
Thanks for bringing back some fond memories and for your wonderful
story.
Happy Holidays,
Lenny Seidman
Elkins Park, Pennsylvania, USA
email: lseidman@erols.com
From: SKY182@aol.com
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 14:56:46 -0500
Subject: XJ40 Road Vibration
I need some help on why my XJ40 has a vibration at 70 mph. Mechanic replaced
all four wheel bearings and one front stub axel. Four new Pirelli P4000
tires balanced, car aligned. Car still has slight mirror shake and vibration
along with a slight roar that sounds like some kind of bearing noise. Also
engine can now be felt to be vibrating thru the steering wheel at idle and 50
mph. Could motor mounts be bad? I don’t remember this steering wheel
vibration until after this trip to shop. My car has 132k on the clock, and
about half of this is road miles. Apparently about 125K is the life of the
wheel bearings on this car. Right front and rear bearings were totally shot.
How about the drive shaft? Is it supposed to have a balance weight on it?
This shop is pretty thorough, but if they can’t solve this, maybe I should
be at the local Jag dealer. Suggestions before I try the dealer?
Also I found the car had the wrong front shocks installed at some point in
its life maybe XJ6 instead of XJ40? They fit somewhat, but the upper
bushings got trashed and that was what led the mechanic to find the error.
Mechanic says this would cause vibrations in the front like a balance
problem. Is that correct? In any case new shocks on the way today.
Gerald
From: John Setters john_setters@eagle.co.nz
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 1996 09:34:32 +1300
Subject: RE: A little Jag content - how to prevent flat batteries ?
Here in NZ an enterprising company called PowerBeat has been formed
to manufacture the answer to starting problems.
They have developed an automotive battery which I believe is in two
portions - one section runs the general electics, the other is reserved
exclusivly for engine starting.
I believe that there are worldwide patents on it and that some Japanese
car makers are installing it as original equipment.
Maybe the internet can be searched for more info; but I will try to find
out more if this is really of interest to the list members.
John Setters
Desktop Mapping Consultant
Eagle Technology Group Ltd
110 Symonds Street
Auckland
New Zealand
Ph +64 +09 300 3400 Fax +64 +09 300 3420
Email john_setters@eagle.co.nz
http://www.eagle.co.nz
Does anybody know of a product which can disconnect the battery if it
starts to run flat, so that there is always enough left to turn the
engine over. If so, where can I get one, if not, anybody wanna have a
go
at making one ?Merry Christmas,
Graham
From: Curt Onstott onstottc@ucs.orst.edu
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 13:01:39 -0800
Subject: Hood Pops open! SII XJ6
I have a '75 SII XJ6. The right side of the hood pops open when I hit a
bump or am cruising at a high rate of speed. I’ve tried to adjust and I
cant seem to eliminate the problem. What usually causes this? The left
side NEVER pops open.
- -Pessimist: “This ship is sinking.” -Optimist: “This ship is half full.”
Curt Onstott - Windows/DOS/PC Specialist - Information Services -
Oregon
State University. - (541) 737-1483 - Office: Kerr 217
From: “Scott Jarvis” scott@telonics.com
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 14:08:10 -0700
Subject: Gas-matic Shock/Squeaky Column
Gunnar wrote:
I bought Monroe Gas-Matics for my '86 SIII XJ6 and am very pleased with =
them.
-
Would you happen to know the Monroe part# for the shocks you =
installed? I have an '83 SIII XJ6 and would like to give them a try. =
The Monroe book does not list Jag.=20 -
My steering column is squeaking when I turn and hit bumps in the =
road. Is this being transferred from bad steering rack bushings, or is =
it possible the impact rubber is bad in the column?
=20
Any help is appreciated
From: Michael Frank mfrank@westnet.com
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 16:26:52 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Jan Wikstroem
Am I the only one getting returned mail from Jan? Can anyone get in touch
with him and let him know there is still a problem?
From: Dan Buringrud dano@castles.com
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 13:37:40 -0800
Subject: Re: The first E-Type (self-indulgent BS)
Thanks for the story, Michael. It was a nice respite in the middle of
the day and very well written.
Dan Buringrud
68 OTS
From: John Littler jcl0004@ibm.net
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 1996 08:52:07 +1000
Subject: Re: Macintosh (zilch Jag content)
Ummm (look of sheepish embarrassment) I don’t have a web site. I’ve
never actually quite found the time to do one. Can I post the
converted file to someone else’s web site until I get one together ? I have to
change ISP’s to be able to do it - I get access free through IBM as
an employee of a partly owned IBM subsidiary, however I can’t set up a
website behind the firewall (or at least not and keep my job).
John
Kirbert wrote:
JL > Well I actually offered to convert them for you…
Most generous. Derek Hibbs maintains a Windows Help File version
on
his WWW site. Would you like to maintain a .PDF version on your
site?
From: John Setters john_setters@eagle.co.nz
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 1996 11:39:55 +1300
Subject: RE: A little Jag content - how to prevent flat batteries ?
“Batteries should be square not flat”
The URL for Powerbeat is http://www.powerbeat.co.nz
Well worth a look !
Regards
John Setters
Desktop Mapping Consultant
Eagle Technology Group Ltd
110 Symonds Street
Auckland
New Zealand
Ph +64 +09 300 3400 Fax +64 +09 300 3420
Email john_setters@eagle.co.nz
http://www.eagle.co.nz
From: Matthew Waite MWaite@tasman.com.au
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 1996 10:04:59 +1100
Subject: Common everyday cars.
My drive to an from work always reviles Classic Jags, Usually at least 2
S1 XJ6s, MkII and an S type or 420, S2 XJs used to be the most common
but are becoming less so now . I recently passed several Mk10s in
everyday use. Most common are S3s, XJ40s XJS,although I did see an XK8
and almost ran into the back of the car in front.
Not all of the older cars are run by enthusiasts which makes the fact of
them being in everyday use even better.
Mat
From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 1996 00:48:06 +0100
Subject: RE: Gas-matic Shock/Squeaky Column
Scott,
Sorry, no. I’ve long since discarded the boxes they came in and the car
is currently 500km away so I can’t check that either.
Gunnar
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar Sovereign 4.2
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | Vicki who? What .sig virus?
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Jarvis [SMTP:scott@telonics.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 19, 1996 10:08 PM
To: ‘Jag-lovers@sn.no’
Subject: Gas-matic Shock/Squeaky Column
- Would you happen to know the Monroe part# for the shocks you installed? I
have an '83 SIII XJ6 and would like to give them a try. The Monroe book does
not list Jag.
From: Kyle Chatman kchatman@mail.coin.missouri.edu
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 18:06:21 -0600
Subject: Re: A little Jag content - how to prevent flat batteries ?
You can also try Priority Start from BLI International, Dept HR12, 17939 =
Chatsworth St., Ste. 521, Granada Hills, CA 91344 800-780-8276. It =
monitors voltage drain when the switch is off and disconnects the =
battery if it gets too low. If you contact them, please reply to me with =
price. Thanks.
Graham Watson grahamw@microsoft.com
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 08:38:19 -0800
Subject: A little Jag content - how to prevent flat batteries ?
From: Ned Blagojevic nbx@ansto.gov.au
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 1996 11:20:22 +1100
Subject: Re: A little Jag content - how to prevent flat batteries ?
At 08:38 19/12/96 -0800, Graham wrote:
Last night, at midnight, I was left in the Railway station car park with
just my Jaguar (with flat battery) for company. I finally got a
jump-start of somebody two hours later. And all because I left the
interior light on for about eighteen hours, and have an automatic (no
push-starts).Does anybody know of a product which can disconnect the battery if it
starts to run flat, so that there is always enough left to turn the
engine over. If so, where can I get one, if not, anybody wanna have a go
at making one ?
This is available in a kit form from Jaycar Electronics (Sydney), kit number
KA-1739 ($25 AUS). The kit was published in Electronics Australia (Jan 92
issue). It connects to the accessory line and measures line voltage. If
voltage drops to preselect limit between 10.9 and 11.9 it shuts off the flow
(don’t know how). The kit includes a relay and specs.
If you are interested let me know, but I think that your local electronics
kit suppliers would be able to help.
On the subject of car kits there is an engine immobiliser kit which is
compatible with electronic ignition systems and works from a hidden switch
(refer: Silicon Chip, Dec. 1995). It disables your ignition on an
intermittent basis after it starts for about 3 to 5 seconds. It gives
impression that the car has problems and hopefully it will discourage him
from further attempts to take it.
I don’t have any of these and I am not connected with the above company,
just happen to have their catalogue on my desk.
Jaycar Electronics (Sydney, Australia)
++61-2-9743-5222
fax ++61-2-9743-2066
Ned
61Mk2
From: Aaron Burnett aaron.burnett@attws.com
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 17:06:27 -0800
Subject: FW: Gas-matic Shock/Squeaky Column
I have the Monroe part number at home. I will post it tomorrow.
Aaron
'85 XJ-S
From: Gunnar Helliesen[SMTP:gunnar@bitcon.no]
Sent: Thursday, December 19, 1996 3:48 PM
To: ‘Jag, Lovers’
Subject: RE: Gas-matic Shock/Squeaky ColumnScott,
Sorry, no. I’ve long since discarded the boxes they came in and the car
is currently 500km away so I can’t check that either.Gunnar
–
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar Sovereign 4.2
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | Vicki who? What .sig virus?-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Jarvis [SMTP:scott@telonics.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 19, 1996 10:08 PM
To: ‘Jag-lovers@sn.no’
Subject: Gas-matic Shock/Squeaky Column
- Would you happen to know the Monroe part# for the shocks you installed?
I
have an '83 SIII XJ6 and would like to give them a try. The Monroe book
does
not list Jag.
From: John Goodman 101547.1141@CompuServe.COM
Date: 19 Dec 96 20:27:09 EST
Subject: Injection systems
Randy you wrote>>
I do wish Jag had gone a different route. They chose the P-Jet because
it
was the only system off the Bosch shelf that was big enough. None of the
direct flow measuring systemscould deal with the air flow of the V-12.
The alternative, though more expensive, I feel would have gotten us a
more
reliable and drivable (and maybe even more powerful) V-12… twin
six cylinder L-Jet systems. Or LH-Jet. Or (wish wish) twin Motronics.<<
Do you Know anything about the Zytek sequential injection and digital
ignition system fitted on my '89 Jaguar sport XJR-S 6.0L ?
What is the difference advantage/ disadvantage ? The distributor, power
amp and ECU are not the same as the standard Marelli. There does not
appear to be any crankshaft or flywheel sensors either, but, the coil is
the same. Also there are two power resistors on the R/H front inner
wing.
I read in “Jaguar World” that it is fundementally the same system as
used in the Group C Le Mans cars of the late eighties. This seems a bit
over the top but would explain the astronomical price of the parts, like
2,500 of your USD’s for a new ECU ! ( that’s a 1989 price list too!)
Nobody repairs them, a chat with AJ6 Engineering the largest
reprogrammers and reconditioners of ECU’s here in the UK say they are
specific Jag sport parts and never seen one.
I managed to get a print out of part numbers from my Jag dealer, but
they don’t know a lot about them. Dealers can’t get back-up from Jaguar
Sport because it no longer exists !
ECU part no. SPD1002, Distributor SPD1065, power amp SPD1108, power
resistors SPD1013.
As usual any help is appreciated
John Goodman
'89 XJR-S 6.0L
From: “Rob” Robby@Large.Softnet.Co.Uk
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 1996 01:42:32 -0000
Subject: Buying an XJ40 Sovereign.
Could I start by saying that I have enjoyed reading the contributions
posted here over the last few weeks - many thanks to all the contributors.
I have finally decided that I would really like an XJ40 Sovereign. The
problem is that I am totally unfamiliar with these cars - I have only
driven one and that was 3 months ago. I am not even sure whether I should
buy from a dealer, or risk a private seller. Consequently, if there is
anyone out there who has had experiences in buying one of these cars (good
or bad) I would be really grateful to hear from them.
Thanx in advance.
From: “Rob” Robby@Large.Softnet.Co.Uk
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 1996 01:32:44 -0000
Subject: Buying an XJ40 Sovereign.
I have been enjoying reading the messages posted here for a while - many
thanks to all the contributors.
After much thought I have finally decided that I would really like an XJ40.
Unfortunately, although I have driven one a couple of times, I am not very
familiar with what to look out for. I am not even too sure whether I should
buy from a dealer, or risk buying from a private seller.
If there is anyone out there who has experiences in buying one of these
cars (good or bad) then please, please, please could you get in touch with
me.
Very many thanks.
From: “Stephen E. Gwynn” sgwynn@rgbsn.com
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 19:45:10 -0700
Subject: Re: XJS Vibrations and HE intro date
Stephen Stewart wrote:
Robert,
thanks for your reply to my problem
Re the “heart transplant”, the first H.E.'s were made in 1981 but not
available in Australia (or USA it seems) until 1983. Mine is a personal
import.regards
SteveStephen,
It has been my experience that worn u-joints and or wheel bearings
result in more noise than vibrations. I would check the tires for
broken belts or the front suspension for worn bushings.
BTW - Did your vehicle have a heart transplant? To my knowledge the
first H.E.s appeared late '83 and '84…
Robert Woodling
'84 XJ-S H.E.
Stephen,
I have had a rumble from the rear of my '93 VDP for the last four
months. Jag dealer blamed tires, mechanic suspected brakes, and I
suspected bearings. After replacing tires, bearings, and brakes all
around, it still rumbles, so Jag has ordered a differential. It remains
to be seen if this solves the problem.
The rumble is not evident under acceleration or cruise, but apply a
moderate amount of brake at speeds over 50 MPH, and the view in the
mirrors is vibrated out of focus. The rumble continues till full stop
if the brake pressure is held steady.
I’ll report in January, if the new diff helps. All U-joints and shafts
are in good condition and there is nothing else to change.
If you solved your problem, I am interested in your solution. If not,
perhaps my experiences will help.
Steve
|Stephen E. Gwynn Computer Support Resources, Inc.|
|sgwynn@rgbsn.com (719) 481-9165 www.rgbsn.com |
From: “Stephen E. Gwynn” sgwynn@rgbsn.com
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 19:58:22 -0700
Subject: Re: Searchable Archives!?
Peter Stiens wrote:
Kroppe wrote:
Greetings all -
I just visited the a BMW enthusiast site:
http://cbsgi1.bu.edu/bmw/bmw.html
and they have a searchable archive of their mailing list. It has a
great search engine front end, and gives you a html list to pick from
when the engine presents the results. The end product is text with
highlighted subject, date, etc.VERY easy to use.
Anyone have the skills and desire to start doing this with the
Jag-Lovers archives? I understand it could be a decent-sized task, but
the person who decides to do this would have my (and many others)
undying admiration and appreciation for their efforts.hi,
i am a software-engineer and my job is to develope database search-engines.
we are just starting to develope internet-front-ends for our databases.
we work with foxpro, a very fast pc-based database.so if you don’t hurry, i think i would be able to do it (let’ say in the
middle of 97) AND i would like to do it. as a member of J.A.G (Jaguar
Association Germany) i have to tell you, that i am just trying to convince
these guys, that things like that should be done.hope we can do something for our jags
Peter Stiens
1967 Daimler Sovereign 420 LHD
Hopefully another jag in near future
Count me in for some contributions. I’m not sure I could do it all
but will be glad to help out. I subscribe to the Netscape Developers
Library and need to try some of this stuff out. Early to Mid 97 sounds
good to me to.
|Stephen E. Gwynn Computer Support Resources, Inc.|
|sgwynn@rgbsn.com (719) 481-9165 www.rgbsn.com |
From: Kroppe kroppe@mich.com
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 22:39:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Steering Geometry for Bump Steer
Ken Wallace kwallac2@ix.netcom.com writes about bump steer.
Ken -
Pick up the book Race Car Vehicle Dynamics, by William F. Milliken
and Douglas L. Milliken, (c) 1995, ISBN 1-56091-526-9. It will tell you
all you want to know about designing a steering system to account for
bump steer. If you can’t find Milliken’s book, then any vehicle
dynamics book will help you. There is a book called The Chevrolet
Performance Book (forgot the author - email me to remind me and I’ll
get it when I get back to work) which also explains suspension/steering
geometry.
Good luck.
B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #595
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jag-lovers-digest Friday, 20 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 596
Re: Gas-matic Shock/Squeaky Column
Re: Gunnar’s Gas-Matics
Re: Rear End Vent
Re: Steering geometry for bump steer
Re: Christmas (No Jag-content)
Re: Review: Jaguar Driver Techni / Amazon.com
Re: Buying an XJ40 Sovereign.
1988 Jag XJ6 Experiences?
Re: A little Jag content - how to prevent flat batteries ?
RE: Correct front ride height
Sticking Throttle
Christmas Greetings…
Hood pops up on SIII
E-Type for hire wanted !!!
SIII speedo
XJ6 Hood Release Solutions.
From: nick@sn.no (Nick Johannessen)
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 1996 06:29:11 +0100
Subject: Re: Gas-matic Shock/Squeaky Column
[ “Scott Jarvis” scott@telonics.com ]
| Gunnar wrote:
| I bought Monroe Gas-Matics for my '86 SIII XJ6 and am very pleased
| with them.
|
| 1) Would you happen to know the Monroe part# for the shocks you
| installed? I have an '83 SIII XJ6 and would like to give them a
| try. The Monroe book does not list Jag.
Front: 43027
Rear: 43013
Nick
Nick Johannessen // nick@sn.no // http://www.sn.no/home/nick/
From: StuartMcD@aol.com
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 1996 02:37:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Gunnar’s Gas-Matics
My 87 XJ6 sits a little low in back. The car needs shocks, it bounces when I
test it…so will Monroe Gas-matics jackup the rear a bit? I’m trying to
avoid buying four new springs for now. And one more item . . . I just had
the front ball joints replaced, and I’m a little suspicious that my front end
is higher than it ought to be. Comments on getting the right attitude for my
beauty would be appreciated.
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 23:30:56 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Rear End Vent
I dont have a vent on mine and its an 81. May be something to think about
fitting.regards
Steve
All Jaguar final drives… indeed all final drives, have a vent. As far
as I can remember, they are on the rear cover, right side.
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 23:28:49 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Steering geometry for bump steer
If I understand the above correctly, the length of the XJ6 rack would have
to be equal to the distance between the inner pivots. This certainly makes
sense in order not to induce steering changes as the suspension moves.I purchased an XJ6 rack and pinion for my Mk2. It measures around 24 inches
long. The distance between the pivots on the XJ6 is somewhat larger than
this. On the Mk2 it is 30 inches. The XJ has an even wider track. How can
we explain this?
More correctly, the tie rod length, inner to outer pivot, is going to be
very close to the same as the virtual length of the lower control arm. Though
i do not have the exact dimensions, I’m quite sure Jag inset the tie rod
to induce some Ackerman geometry.
i do believe I wrote about the simplistic “ideal” setup, then went on to
say that other things, such as anti-dive/squat, variable castor, and
Ackerman, muddie things quite a bit.
You are pretty much governed by where the outer tie rod pivot ends up. This
is a function of the upright design. Working from this point, you need to
figure out where the ideal inboard pivot point should be.
I went to the parts store and noticed that quite a few cars are equipped
with rack and pinion systems that allow the tie rods to eminate from the
center of the rack rather than the ends as with the XJ6 unit. This would
not conform to the requirements you outline. It may be that if the tie rods
It does conform… in a different application. the center-pickup racks are
used extensively in front drive Macpherson strut cars. For packaging
reasons, they mount the rack high relative to the body. this may be to get an
acceptable steering column position (Lancia), or to place the rack above
the transaxle (Audi). This causes the outer pivots to be mounted high up
on the strut housing. The in/out movement as the suspension moves is very
little at this point, as the top of the strut is attached to the body…
fixed.
I really did not, and still do not, want to go into IC’s (instant centers),
but I guess we’ll have to briefly. The IC is the point at which the wheel
is pivoting around… at the instant point of suspension movement. This
point moves dramaticly as the suspension goes through it’s range.
To minimize bump steer, the tie rod needs to be set up so that it points
at this IC, no matter where it is. On wishbone suspension, such as the
Front of Jag’s, The Ic can be found by drawing extended lines through both
control arms. The IC is where the lines intersect.
For macpherson strut, the lines are stil used. the lower in through the
effective control arm. The upper line is drawn through the top strut mount,
perpendicular to the logical strut line (upper pivot to lower ball joint).
This line is going to be at a very shallow angle to horizontal, and pretty
much a constant.
Now, by applying the same guide (inline with the pivot lines; same percentage
at both ends), we end up with the same sort of thing. If the tie rod is
mounted in line with a control arm, it should be the same length as that
arm.For purposes of figuring the upper inner pivot of struts, we call it half
of the length of the line from the strut top to the IC. Mounting the rack
inline with the lower arm will require a “normal” rack. However, if you move it
up very much at all, the upper line starts affenting things, and you need
longer and longer tierods. this is where the center-pickup racks come
in.
I am planning to design my own mounts and I would like to get it right the
first time.I really appreciate all the input I have received on this subject. I hope
that the design I come up with will benefit others who wish to make this
change to their Mk2s.
Where is the outer tierod pickup relative to the lower balljoint, with the
wheel in the straight ahead position? this is going to determine where
everything else needs to be.
Ken Wallace
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
From: Baard Th Hesvik baard@telesoft.no
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 1996 09:26:20 -0800
Subject: Re: Christmas (No Jag-content)
Hi,
Several times lately, I’ve seen americans use the term Yuletide. I asked Lauren
wether he originated from Norway on account of him wishing us a “joyous yule
tide”.
If you didn’t already know it, get this: the expression must come from Norway
(or one of the other minor Scandinavian kingdoms). Here we say Juletid which,
directly translated, means Christmas time.
So, God Jul & Godt Nytt aar!
Bard
______ _ ! Baard Th Hesvik, Telesoft AS
/ _ / _ _ _ / / ! Longhammarvn 7, N-5500 Haugesund
/ // / // /_ / / -/- -/- ! T: +47 52735000 F: +47 52717040
/ /_ / /_ / // / /_ ! E-mail: baard@telesoft.no
From: Stefan Schulz jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 11:26:56 GMT
Subject: Re: Review: Jaguar Driver Techni / Amazon.com
In message 199612171954.MAA02886@longs.engr.colostate.edu “Patrick Fitzhorn” writes:
They advertise that one can “search 1 million titles,” and there are
other interesting advertising come-on’s too. I’ve not ordered
from them, nor have I heard from anyone who has, so caveat
emptor or vini vidi visa or some such latin phrase!
I have ordered from them - a copy of the GM400 manual. They had it in
stock when no one else did. I’d buy from them again.
A couple of weeks later a British internet bookshop which shall remain
unnamed ;-( cocked up and sent me a second copy following a back order
they didn’t cancel, which is why I ended up selling that.
Regards,
Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
From: Mark Stiles ittmjs@staffs.ac.uk
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 1996 11:43:03 +0000
Subject: Re: Buying an XJ40 Sovereign.
Could I start by saying that I have enjoyed reading the contributions
posted here over the last few weeks - many thanks to all the contributors.I have finally decided that I would really like an XJ40 Sovereign. The
problem is that I am totally unfamiliar with these cars - I have only
driven one and that was 3 months ago. I am not even sure whether I should
buy from a dealer, or risk a private seller. Consequently, if there is
anyone out there who has had experiences in buying one of these cars (good
or bad) I would be really grateful to hear from them.
My advice on XJ40 is:
Get a 1990 model onwards (there are “90” models registered in late 89)
-
- these have a better build quality and things like Ford door locks
(which work!) and a large number of sorted problem relative to the
earlier cars.
- these have a better build quality and things like Ford door locks
Get a 4.0 with leather interior (value holds better in UK) and get
Sovereign or Daimler spec. (Daimler has even higher spec)
A full service history is more important than mileage, regardless of
where you are buying it. (I bought mine from a car dealer but not a
Jag one - there is a big price premium from them)
Watch out for rusty boots and rattling timing chains.
Enjoy!!
Mark Stiles - Stafford, UK
Daimler 4.0 (100K miles)
From: RFOX@aarp.org
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 1996 09:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: 1988 Jag XJ6 Experiences?
I’m new to this group and I find the discussions
fascinating and enlightening. I’m a wannabe Jaguar owner
considering a late 80’s XJ6 – I’m just beginning to
learn about the car I’ve dreamed about for years. Any
thoughts or experiences with the '88 model year (what to
avoid, specific problems to look for, etc.)? Any
comments or advice is greatly appreciated!
R.J. Fox
rfox@aarp.org
From: jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk (Stefan Schulz)
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 1996 13:32:31 GMT
Subject: Re: A little Jag content - how to prevent flat batteries ?
In message c=US%a=_%p=msft%l=WSH-01-MSG-961219163819Z-33688@INET-05-IMC.itg.microsoft.com Graham Watson writes:
Does anybody know of a product which can disconnect the battery if it
starts to run flat, so that there is always enough left to turn the
engine over.
I guess there are fundamental problems here: Such a product would have to
handle the current drawn by the starter, because interrupting the ground
connection of the battery would be the only way to be SURE that no further
current is being drawn. One, you’d need one big mother of a relay to handle
the 1000 Amps of the starter, two, that relay’s coil would draw a lot more
current than your interior light bulb, three, you’d have no easy way of
re-establishing the ground connection short of manual interference.
To fix your particular problem, two solutions come to mind:
-
Get a new battery. If it is empty after eighteen hours of interior light
only, it’s on the way out anyway. -
(Assuming that you park in the open rather than a garage) Yacht kit shops
sell gizmos that trickle-charge batteries on an on-going basis using solar
cells as the enery source. Should work for a car, too.
Regards,
Stefan Schulz
jaguar@suaviter.demon.co.uk
From: “Scott Jarvis” scott@telonics.com
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 1996 08:39:50 -0700
Subject: RE: Correct front ride height
StuartMcD@aol.com writes: I’m a little suspicious that my front end
is higher than it ought to be. Comments on getting the right attitude =
for my beauty would be appreciated.
Stuart, The manual says to depress the front of the car by pushing down =
on the bumper, then lifting it, and then letting it rest. Measure the =
distance from the ground to the center of the headlight. Correct height =
is 611 mm (24 5/8") minimum. No max figures given. Remove packing =
rings beneath springs to achieve this dimension. Packing rings are =
suppose to be 3.18 mm (1/8") thick and vary ride height by 7.93 mm =
(5/167") =20
Hope this helps and applies to your year XJ6. Mine is an "83, but I’m =
pretty sure it’s the same.
Happy Holidays to all!
Scott@Telonics.com
'83 XJ6
From: Gary Bradford gbradford@unix.ashcc.uky.edu
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 1996 11:11:04 -0500
Subject: Sticking Throttle
I have had the same problem with an entirely different cause! I found that
the clip holding the throttle cable had slipped creating a “bind” which
would not allow the throttle (and accelerator) to return to its original
position.
Solution: Locate clip (there are two on the firewall [inside the motor
compartment]) which has slipped. This is simply a matter of visual
inspection (you can see where the original position was–its clean relative
to the rest of the cable). Move the clip back to its original position and
affix it more securely. Problem solved.
My stuck going down hill on a four lane highway outside of Prestonsburg,
Kentucky. Needless to say it made for a very interesting few seconds–which
felt like an eternity–before I was able to get the throttle to release.
G. P. Bradford
From: “Donald R. Farr” d.farr@phx.cox.com
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 1996 09:43:16 -0700
Subject: Christmas Greetings…
Hi fellow Jaguar owners and affectionado’s. If you use Netscape as your
browser please see the Farr family Christmas greeting by clicking below.
Those of you without a browser we’ll just wish a wonderful Christmas
where ever you are in the world and a happy and safe 1997.
http://people.phx.cox.com/dfarr/christ.htm
Don & Mary Jane Farr
From: “Russert, Steven W” Steven.Russert@PSS.boeing.com
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 1996 10:02:54 -0800
Subject: Hood pops up on SIII
I had that problem on my '82 SJ6. I tried my hand at aligning and
adjusting depth of the plungers, with no luck. Finally I took the
advice I had been given (I don’t remember who gave it) to cut
the spring. I removed one coil from spring on the offending
side of the hood and it completely fixed the problem! My theory
is that the latch plate gets worn enough that the tension of the
spring gradually wedges it out of the way - but I could very well
be wrong. Anyone else have experience with this?
'82 XJ6 with lowered hood !
Steve Russert
Boeing ISS R&T
Phone (206)865-3588
FAX (206)865-2965
e-mail steven.w.russert@boeing.com
From: “Dr. O. Brock” obrock@metronet.de
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 1996 19:40:57 +0100
Subject: E-Type for hire wanted !!!
Dear Jag-lovers,
I�m desperately seeking a pref. Series 2 roadster E-Type to hire for
just half a day.
The occasion is my wedding in Berkhamsted, Herts, UK, and I need the car
just for driving to and from the church.
The date will be June 28th 1997.
I�ve been a holder of a clean/accident-free licence for 17 years now and
the Jag would make my day.
Can anybody help me pref. in the Home Counties ?
Please contact me via email or by phone/letter:
Dr. Oliver Brock
Im Stiefel 26
30989 Gehrden - Lenthe
Germany
Phone: +49-5137-50208
Fax : +49-511-324246
email: obrock@metronet.de
Thank you very much in advance, community !!!
From: “Russert, Steven W” Steven.Russert@PSS.boeing.com
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 1996 11:08:56 -0800
Subject: SIII speedo
Learned Colleagues,
I had the speedo out of my '82 SIII XJ6 last night. The
odometer quit a few months ago (I’m getting 0 miles per gallon!)
I had a hard time reaching up behind the dash to disconnect the
cable, and finally pulled the guage out to find there isn’t one! I
have never seen an electronic speedo before. I pried open the
tabs on the bezel and took the guts out, and found that there
is a little motor or servo or synchro that runs the odometers.
I put it back together in hopes that the attention would fix it
(hey, it works sometimes!) but alas, no change. I called a
local speedo shop and they said they can’t get the parts for
it, but wondered if anyone has a line on a source for such
things…
I have to confess, I actually enjoy working on this
car. (I hope it can’t hear me say this). I have taken apart
window lift switches and fixed them, repaired the hokey low
brake fluid switch, replaced the brake pads (incredibly easy)
and generally found that the more sophisticated engineering
and old-world construction techniques often yield easier, rather
than more difficult, repair.
I had a Fiat once for about 6 years, and didn’t mind
the maintenance requirements, so I guess I’m certifiable
Thanks,
Steve Russert
Boeing ISS R&T
Phone (206)865-3588
FAX (206)865-2965
e-mail steven.w.russert@boeing.com
From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 1996 13:22:30 -0700 (MST)
Subject: XJ6 Hood Release Solutions.
Nick- Can you toss this in the archives as a reference for the next
time this question comes up?
Jag-Lovers XJ6 Hood Release Solutions.
Lawrence Buja
southern@ncar.ucar.edu
A common problem with series I-III XJ6’s is that, with age, the bonnets
pop open unexpectedly. Since XJ6 bonnets hinge from the front and also
have a strong backup catch, this isn’t the disastrous occurrence that it
can be with rear-hinged bonnets. But it is bothersome and, if left
untreated, can result in futher damage and expense from the loose bonnet
bouncing around (i.e. the welds in the picture below fail and your
little problem turns into a big problem).
Here’s what the intake-side bonnet pin looks like from the rear:
-
The assembled product: 2. The individual parts:
bonnet top bonnet top
\ .-. / \ \ / \
\ ####### / \ ####### / ← Sheetmetal U
*#######/ *#######/ channel
===== ^ ^ ^
===== weld Nut weld
/—\
/// .-. <-top of bonnet pin
/// |~| <-bonnet pin (threaded)
/// |~|
-–/ ===== ← pinch nut
V =====
/—\ <-washer
///
/// <-spring over the pin
///
-–/ <-washer
V <-end of pin which engages
the striker plate
Below is a collection of articles from Jag-lovers on the subject:
- -Date: Fri, 13 Sep 96 18:02:19 -0700
- -From: Barrie Dawson DAWSONB@btcec3.agw.bt.co.uk
- -Subject: RE:Bonnet opening(NOT XJS air Damn!)
Dave Wood, wrote about the rhs of the bonnet occasionally popping open.
I too have had this problem especially when I first got my XJ6. My
friendly Jaguar speciallist helped me out by showing me the recognised
method of closing the bonnet. You stand to the front centre of the open
bonnet and place the hand on finger tips centrally on the bonnet, then
push firmly so that the bonnet shuts with a “clunk”. This ensures
sufficient force within the flexing bonnet to snap shut in the locks.
If the bonnet pops up on one side NEVER push that side back down as the
bonnet can bend, always open and start closure afresh.
Try it out, I’ve had no trouble since adopting this technique.
Barrie Dawson
Chatham, Kent England
1985 series III Jaguar Sovereign
- -From: southern@ncar.ucar.edu (Lawrence Buja)
- -Subject: XJ6 bonnet opening fix.
- -Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 09:33:48 -0600 (MDT)
Cosmo pleads…
{The bonnet on my XJ6 SIII as started to open when on the move. This
{is a tad annoying and has now become serious as both sides now do it
{occasionaly. The Fine Manual only mentions adjusting the release
{cable and I can’t see any adjustment in the catch mechanism. Is
{there any trick to this?
This was happening on the Daimler for a long time before I got around to
fixing it.
I loosened the pinch nut on the bonnet pin and turned the bonnet pin a
few turns to make it longer, then retightened the pinch nut. It was
really very simple. I did this to both sides of the bonnet and now it’s
stopped popping up. Previously, I had increased the spring tension on
the catch mechanism and it didn’t help at all.
If somehow you mess up and can’t get the bonnet released (say the bonnet
release cable breaks), there are little access holes in each wheel well
thru which you can insert a slim screwdriver and manually release each
bonnet catch. Just to be on the safe side, I practiced opening the
bonnet this way a few times before I started messing around with the
catch mechanism.
/\ Lawrence Buja http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern
_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
________________Boulder,Colorado___80307-3000
- -From: Jan Wikstroem Jan_Wikstroem@acp.com.au
- -Date: 16 Sep 96 18:31:46
- -Subject: Re: XJ6 bonnet opening fix.
Lawrence Buja wrote:
I loosened the pinch nut on the bonnet pin and turned the bonnet pin a
few turns to make it longer, then retightened the pinch nut.
That’s indeed the method. I just thought I’d insert a small note of
caution here, based on my own experience with two elderly XJs. You need
to keep the adjustment to a minimum; when you push down on the closed
bonnet where the latches are, you should not be able to push it down
noticeably. The reason is that if the bonnet doesn’t sit down tightly on
its guide blocks, it can wobble slightly sideways and the pins (or
rather, the bonnet rib their mounting nuts are welded to) fall prey to
fatigue fracture. This may not be a concern on smooth city streets, but
out here in the sticks it sure is.
If anyone has fractures around those nuts, I can give you details of a
repair/reinforcement I did that seems highly successful.
- -Jan
- -From: ** SHANE MANTOSZKO ** IBMA INVENTORY ANALYST **
- -*** INTERNET ADDRESS - SHANEM@VNET.IBM.COM *****************
- -Subject: Hood(Bonnet) catch problems
myself worked on it with no solution: … MY HOOD WILL POP OUT
UNEXPECTEDLY… This will happen usually if I hit a slight bump on the
road. First one side will come loose, then about 5-10 minutes of driving
Boy what a familiar problem. I went through exactly what you went
through here in Sydney. I took the car to Gary Walker Jaguar…
[ed: several lines of libelous slander deleted]
Anyway, basically he had the car 3 times, and each time he said he
had it fixed, and lo and behold, you couldn’t drive 2 blocks without it
popping again. All the parts had been replaced, so what the hell was
going on !!!
I was so angry I could have killed these guys…anyway, I calmed down,
got the car home and had a good look at the latch. What I noticed, was
that the bolt sticking down from the bonnet on the problem side, was
not sticking out at the same angle as the bolt on the other side. Even
though both sides slid into the hole easily, it was just a fraction of an
inch out.
All I did was tap it a few times with a rubber mallet, to get it
parallel to the other pin. It closes just as easily now, but has not
popped in the 2 years since. Also, no damage to the pin or bonnet.
I had to tap it towards the back of the car. The more it
was tilted towards the front, the more the bonnet(hood) would pop.
Sure this may not be the problem with yours, but it sure was with
mine…amazing what a couple eighth’s of an inch can do in a jag…
On Wed, 29 Nov 1995, Aygen E. Dogar wrote:
Now my problem and it’s been a frustrating one as several people including
myself worked on it with no solution: … MY HOOD WILL POP OUT
UNEXPECTEDLY… ^^^^^^^^^^^^
Aygen,
Believe it or not, our car had the same problem. Boy, we messed
with adjustment, hood pin springs (even removing them at one point),
cable adjustment. etc… It would sure strike fear into occupants’ heads
when the hood jumps up 2 inches at 70 mph! On one trip of several
hundred miles duration, I got out and adjusted the inner headlights to
compensate for the always-up hood, so that we could see the road
adequately.
Ok I’ll quit with the stories and tell you what we did which
stopped the problem. I removed the striker plate assemblies and replaced
the plate retraction springs with ones of higher stiffness. I noted that
the coils of the old springs had begun to separate, indicating that the
original preload wound into the spring had been lost. All tension
springs have a wound-in preload during cold-forming which gives the
spring a non-zero initial takeup force.
Greg
Greg Meboe meboe@lestat.scs.wsu.edu
- -Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 21:58:32 -0500 (CDT)
- -From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
- -Subject: Re: Bonnet openning (NOT XJS air Damn!)
There is another thing to check when an XJ’s bonnet won’t stay closed.
Be sure that the screws–particularly the Phillips head ones–holding the
latch mechanisms to the body are TIGHT. They have a tendency to work
loose, and an early symptom is for the bonnet to pop open. If they get
real loose, however, you will have trouble getting the bonnet to open at
all. For some reason–at least on my 1979 SII–Jaguar did not use lock
washers on these screws, even though there seem to be lock washers on
just about everything else! Needless to say, mine now have lock
washers, and they haven’t worked loose in a while.
Loose diagonal struts (from the firewall center to the fenders) can also
cause bonnet problems, but you should probably hear some “clunks” over
bumps or in turns.
One more thing. PLEASE don’t push one corner of your bonnet down to
secure it. That’s a real good way to warp it. Re-open it fully and then
close it from the front center (top of the grill) like Sir William intended.
Larry Lee
- -Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 21:55:55 -0600 (CST)
- -From: “A. Gardner” gardnera@SLUVCA.SLU.EDU
- -Subject: Subject: XJ6 bonnet opening.
Cosmo wrote:
The bonnet on my XJ6 SIII has started to open when on the move.
I have noted various solutions posted but nobody seems to have mentioned
moving the spring loaded striker plate forward (towards the radiator) so
that the latch more aggressively engages the bonnet pin recess. Observe
each striker plate and, if this is the problem, the one popping open will be
obscuring less of the aperture. On my car (1985 XJ6 Series III) the striker
plate, when properly adjusted, forms a half moon crescent which obscures
about fifty percent of the hole. Adjust by loosening the two bolts which
hold the mechanism (one on either side of the aperture through which the
bonnet pin travels). If there is no forward adjustment possible, remover
the bolts and elongate the slotted holes using a round file. Should the
bonnet pin be striking the aperture, and the pin is not bent, loosen the
three bolts that hold the bracket and reposition the entire assembly. Again
this may involve elongating the bolt holes in the bracket. If this doesn’t
work, the try the rubber mallet suggested in the earlier post - perhaps by
leaning out of the window and hitting it every time it pops up.
Tony Gardner
1986 XJ6 Series III
- -Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 12:58:12 +0100
- -From: Cosmo simond@informix.com
- -Subject: Solution: XJ6 bonnet opening.
Cosmo wrote:
The bonnet on my XJ6 SIII has started to open when on the move.
Thanx for all the suggestions for the bonnet closure problem. After
a few days of playing with them the final solution was the rubber
mallet. A few taps to knock the bottom of the pin further towards
the rear of the car and presto! All other attempts to close the
bonnet corectly, adjust the spring, adjust the cable, clean the
mechanism didn’t work.
Thanx again,
Cosmo
- -Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 14:42:45 PDT
- -From: David Wood David.Wood@durham.ac.uk
- -Subject: Re: Bonnet openning (NOT XJS air Damn!)
On Fri, 13 Sep 1996 12:40:13 +0100 Cosmo wrote:
The bonnet on my XJ6 SIII as started to open when on the move. This
is a tad annoying and has now become serious as both sides now do it
occasionaly. The Fine Manual only mentions adjusting the release
cable and I can’t see any adjustment in the catch mechanism. Is
there any trick to this?
My SIII bonnet hinges were going rusty, such that it was
becoming difficult to open the bonnet without a lot of heaving on
the structure - a common failing apparently, but never mentioned
in ANY of the reports I have seen on an XJ6 (why? Do all the
hacks just rehash each other’s work? I digress.)
After a local garage had fixed the hinges, the bonnet shut and opened
with no trouble, but occassionally the rhs would pop open out of its
catch. Rather than taking it back, I noticed that the bonnet was not
catching properly when it was should, although it appeared to do so.
A final press in the offending area made sure the bonnet catched, and
stayed shut.
Cheers,
Dave Wood.
end
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jag-lovers-digest Saturday, 21 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 597
A short E-type story…
XK Engine 4.2L Core Plugs
Re: Toward Better Brake Lights
Re: XJS Surging Solution?
stakedown
Re: your recent comment
Fwd: XJ40 Hydraulics
xk-140 fhc for sale
RE: XJS Vibrations and HE intro date
RE: Gunnar’s Gas-Matics
(no subject)
RE: opinion
RE: opinion
What’s the matter? Question to tough? 1 to 3 wire 02 Sensor
Virus Warning
XK Tappet Guide FAQ V1.0
From: Dan Graves dan@bimmer.rose.hp.com
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 96 12:41:17 PST
Subject: A short E-type story…
Michael’s story stirred up some old images in my head…
I spent the first decade of my life growing up in suburbia, San Jose CA
to be exact. In 1973 I was 11 years old, no jalopies in the neighborhood
that I can remember. I guess the closest thing would be the Plymouth Fury
that the guy down the street drove to work everyday. No hubcaps, different
tires on every corner, plastic for one window and a battery charger that
had a permanent place in his driveway. The kids in the neighborhood all
swore that they’d seen his car out at the local speedway on Saturday nights.
My brother was 18 at the time and had just sold his '55 Chevy station wagon
to buy a '69 TR6. I thought that car was the coolest thing around. White
with black “racing” stripes, four-spoke alloy wheels, airdam, and from an
eleven year olds perspective, it was FAST! My brother’s friend that lived
a couple houses away drove a brand new Fiat 124 Spider (or whichever one
is the convertible). Remember, this is 1973 so that car was pretty cool
too! He drove it for about three months and, get this, traded it and $800
for a '69 E-type roadster! Just like the Bronx in the 50’s, all the
neighborhood kids gathered around this sex symbol, except this time we
were all on our BMX bikes! He was the proud owner of that car until 1986,
that’s when I bought it from him. I still see him from time to time and
he always asks how “our” car is doing. 
Dan Graves
P.S. Michael, after reading your story I was tempted to get the E-type
out and drive it around with the top down in our 40deg foggy weather!
From: Kroppe kroppe@mich.com
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 1996 15:39:38 -0500
Subject: XK Engine 4.2L Core Plugs
Greetings -
After measuring my 4.2L core plugs last night, here is what I came up
with:
1 5/8" x 9 plugs
1 1/4" x 2 plugs
1" x 1 plug
Plus one threaded (but frozen) plug in a 1 5/8" hole.
I needed to measure my plugs because none of the shops in Detroit that I
spoke to knew anything about Jaguar core plugs (“duh…I dunno…they
must be metric!!!”). I was able to find an engine parts supply
warehouse that had brass core plugs in the sizes above. Total cost for
12 plugs: USD$7.00. Not bad.
This might be a small addition to Jim Isbell’s XJ6 book. Use the info
FWIW.
B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 1996 16:20:57 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Toward Better Brake Lights
There was also a device marketed some fifteen years ago that was like a
CHMSL, but that reacted to brake pressure. The intensity of the light and
flashing duration were proportional to how fast you were decelerating.
Dim light and slow flashes meant easy deceleration, bright light
continuously on meant watch out. Don’t remember if it plumbed into the
brake system or had a built-in decelerometer. This device preceeded the
CHMSL requirements and apparently disappeared a long time back. Good
idea, tho.
John
On Thu, 19 Dec 1996, A.J. Beale wrote:
This is an interesting subject. One problem with brake lights is that they
give no indication of how hard the driver in front is braking and for this
reason the following driver may not react soon enough. Many years ago,
there was a novelty device which was hung in the rear window. It consisted
of three lights - green, amber and red. Green was on normally and changed
to amber when the car was decelerating and red on braking. LEDs would allow
a string of several lights to indicate braking pressure and could help
reduce tail enders. It could be done with normal incandescents, but LEDs
should be easier and neater. Alan.
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 1996 17:18:33 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJS Surging Solution?
On Wed, 18 Dec 1996, Randy Wilson wrote:
The alternative, though more expensive, I feel would have gotten us a more
reliable and drivable (and maybe even more powerful) V-12… twin
six cylinder L-Jet systems. Or LH-Jet. Or (wish wish) twin Motronics.
Wouldn’t two six cylinder systems from another car be a great retrofit?
Just pick the 2.5 to 3 liter 6 cylinder engine you like best. And, maybe
just one computer and some other stuff is enough – just multiplex in
the ‘other’ six cylinder engine that happens to be lying around in there.
John
From: MichaelHooker triumph1@gramercy.ios.com
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 1996 17:25:48 -0500 (EST)
Subject: stakedown
hi,
i have seen alot about the valve stakedown kit. what exactly is it, what
models does it pertain to, how hard is it to do, and how much does it cost?
sorry for the long question,
Mike Hooker
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 1996 17:31:50 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: your recent comment
On Thu, 19 Dec 1996 jwbeckmeye@198.108.150.254 wrote:
When was the last time you saw, heard of, of had even the slightest
support for the notion that gang members drive jags??Ever been to Detroit? “Successful” gang members and pimps seem to like
Jags. True!~
Yes, and I’ll bet that the unsuccessful gang members and pimps have Jags
with Chevy engines in 'em.
John
From: KupyKool@aol.com
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 1996 18:13:45 -0500
Subject: Fwd: XJ40 Hydraulics
The following message is for Chad Bolles. Sorry to use the bandwidth, but I
can’t seem to get through to his e-mail address.
Forwarded message:
Subj: Re: XJ40 Hydraulics
Date: 96-12-12 18:01:17 EST
From: Kupy Kool
To: aa100519@dasher.csd.sc.edu
Chad-
In a message dated 96-12-09 07:57:25 EST, you write:
Call SICP today and check their price their # 800 343 1833 ask for
Kevin or dial his ext. 3016.
Let me know their price, as I said before maybe I can do better.
Kevin at SICP has the kit for $546.25 (he quoted me the “non-garage” price).
But I also checked Jag Services. They have it for $450.00. What do you think?
Mike Kupritz
Baltimore, Maryland
From: ffilangeri@juno.com (Frank A Filangeri)
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 1996 20:49:53 EST
Subject: xk-140 fhc for sale
Fellow club member (JDC Long Island) offers the following classic Jag for
sale:
1956 Jaguar XK 140 MC FHC. Ivory with black interior, wire wheels and
matching numbers. 35k miles on a rust free Calif. car. Concours scores
always 96+. Featured on the cover of E-JAG magazine April 1988.
$39,500. Contact Ed LaGrassa 718-631-5416 (NYC).
Frank Filangeri
62 E OTS Flat Floor
66 AH 3000
From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 1996 03:09:37 +0100
Subject: RE: XJS Vibrations and HE intro date
Steve,
Hmmm, you say the brakes have been replaced, does this include the
rotors? Sounds like warped rotors to me.
Gunnar
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar Sovereign 4.2
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | Vicki who? What .sig virus?
-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen E. Gwynn [SMTP:sgwynn@rgbsn.com]
Sent: Friday, December 20, 1996 3:45 AM
To: Stephen Stewart
Cc: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Re: XJS Vibrations and HE intro dateStephen,
I have had a rumble from the rear of my '93 VDP for the last four
months. Jag dealer blamed tires, mechanic suspected brakes, and I
suspected bearings. After replacing tires, bearings, and brakes all
around, it still rumbles, so Jag has ordered a differential. It remains
to be seen if this solves the problem.The rumble is not evident under acceleration or cruise, but apply a
moderate amount of brake at speeds over 50 MPH, and the view in the
mirrors is vibrated out of focus. The rumble continues till full stop
if the brake pressure is held steady.
From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 1996 03:28:58 +0100
Subject: RE: Gunnar’s Gas-Matics
Stuart,
Yes, they will lift the car somewhat but don’t expect miracles.
Gunnar
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar Sovereign 4.2
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | Vicki who? What .sig virus?
-----Original Message-----
From: StuartMcD@aol.com [SMTP:StuartMcD@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, December 20, 1996 8:37 AM
To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Re: Gunnar’s Gas-MaticsMy 87 XJ6 sits a little low in back. The car needs shocks, it bounces when I
test it…so will Monroe Gas-matics jackup the rear a bit? I’m trying to
avoid buying four new springs for now.
From: The Fisher Family HVSZ1@ids.net
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 1996 21:35:44 -0500
Subject: (no subject)
any advice as to how to maintain my own jag. I’m not much of a mechanic,
what book on jag maintanice do you recommend. i have a 88 xj 6 (121k
needs master cyclinder and rear shocks)and just made a deal on a 95 xj
6(29500miles)
From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 1996 05:33:42 +0100
Subject: RE: opinion
Robert,
First of all, I live in Norway so my experiences might or might not be
relevant to you where you live (you didn’t say where but I’m guessing
Philadelphia from your email address). I can’t help you with pricing as
that varies a lot from country to country (hint, hint: This is a very
international forum…
I own an '86 XJ6 Sovereign and my experience so far is that’s it’s a
very reliable car. Mine has clocked 180,000kms (~112,000 miles) and
still runs like a dream. An '86 with only 60-70,000 miles sounds like a
dream come true to me…
In the six months I’ve owned my Jag I’ve replaced the following items:
-
- Shocks all around (6, 2 up front and 4 at the rear)
-
- Brake pads all around (2 sets, 1 up front and 1 at the rear)
-
- Steering rack bushings (3)
-
- Engine fan clutch (1)
-
- The engine oil and oil filter (twice)
-
- Front turn signal bulb (1)
The parts were not expensive compared to Mercedes parts for example, but
then again I ordered them from the UK (Classic Spares Ltd.). There is
only one Jaguar dealer in all of Norway and their prices are outrageous
so it’s much cheaper for me to order original Jaguar parts from the UK.
Total cost: Around 6000 Norwegian Kroner (approx. US $925).
In addition I’ve had to secure the tappet guides on the exhaust valves.
This was done by a friend of mine who knows his way around engines. Cost
was only his labor and 6 small steel screws. If you browse through the
Jag Lovers archives you’ll see a lot of talk about a “stakedown kit”
from SIPC and others but I found this to be unnecessary and a waste of
money. You’ll have to pay for labor anyway (unless you’re very confident
at drilling and tapping in alumin[i]um yourself) and the screws will
hold down the tappet guides securely by themselves. This work should be
done on all Series III (1979-87) 4.2l cars, if the car(s) you’re
contemplating buying hasn’t had this work done already you should either
insist that the seller has it done before you take posession (and pay
for the car(s)!) or get a price reduction (around $300-$500).
I’ve done all the other work myself and didn’t find it difficult at all.
I’ve also adjusted the electronic fuel injection system myself (it’s a
standard Bosch L-Jetronic system) and it was quite easy (see the Jag
Lovers archives for my report). Apart from the burnt-out bulb I’ve had
no electrical problems.
However: Any Jaguar is a sophisticated piece of machinery. Some repairs
are a lot more expensive than on the more pedestrian cars you mention.
The Independent Rear Suspension (IRS) comes to mind as an example, if
you need to overhaul the differential or replace the rear brake rotors
you are in for a lot of work and $$$.
When buying a used Jaguar you should always have it checked by a
mechanic who knows Jaguars first. I know, I know, it’s easy to think
that “hey, my mechanic is very good, he doesn’t know Jaguars in
particular but he sure knows cars, so he should be able to assess the
car for me”. Wrong! There are some things only an experienced Jaguar
mechanic would know to look for, never skip this step!
You should be prepared to follow Jaguar’s recommended maintenance
schedule religiously, never skip a service or tune-up! The dollars you
save will have multiplied by the time a problem surfaces.
Find a rust-free car with a good interior because these are the really
expensive and time consuming things to repair. Also make sure the
drivetrain (transmission and IRS) is in good shape, repairs/replacements
are expensive. Good and regular maintenance throughout the life of the
car is more important than mileage, so look for a car with a documented
service history.
Whatever you do, don’t buy a car with a Chevy smallblock engine
transplant! Some people seem to have the quaint idea that a Chevy engine
is more economical and reliable than the Jaguar engine. This is first of
all simply not true and second of all: If you want a Chevy why not just
buy a Chevy? Apart from all that, if you don’t buy a car with a real,
genuine, race-bred Jaguar engine you miss out on 90% of the joy of
owning a Jaguar. This IMNSHO.
One last thing; if you buy a Jaguar make sure it’s properly insured. If
you’re so unlucky as to crash it you should know that extensive body
repairs tend to be rather expensive (guess how I know?
For more thoughts by yours truly on buying a used Jaguar, see
http://home.sn.no/home/nick/gunnar1.html on the Jag Lovers Web site (at
http://home.sn.no/home/nick/jaguar.html ) where you’ll also find the Jag
Lovers archives. See also the =B4SOL used car buyer’s checklist=B4 at
http://home.sn.no/home/nick/used_car.html and the =B4XJ6 FAQ=B4 at
http://home.sn.no/home/nick/info/xj6_faq.txt . For all the collected
wisdom of Jag Lovers on the XJ6 you should download Kirby Palm’s =B4XJS
Experience in a book=B4 at http://gcn.scri.fsu.edu/~palmk/jaguar.html =
(yes
it’s for the XJS but it includes a lot of information that is relevant
for the XJ6 as well) and Jim Isbell’s =B4XJ6 - Bumper to bumper=B4 at =
the
same address.
Best of luck with the Jaguar purchase!
Gunnar
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar Sovereign 4.2
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | Vicki who? What .sig virus?
-----Original Message-----
From: strauss [SMTP:strauss@philly.infi.net]
Sent: Saturday, December 21, 1996 6:22 AM
To: virtualwheels@bitcon.no
Subject: opinionMy wife and I saw two 1986 XJ6s and, unfortunately, we fell in love =
with=20
them too much. We haven’t bought them because we want to make sure we=20
aren’t getting into too much of a trap. I took the first one to my=20
mechanic, though, and he pronounced it OK, though he suggested I get it =
repainted—there were a bunch of flaking spots.
Our general questions are these: In generally good shape, what is=20
the range of what a 1986 XJ6 should cost? Is this model subject to=20
anything unusually bad (We heard electrical problems. Is this=20
specifically true?)? In relation to American cars of the same vintage, =
how much more should we expect to pay for repairs and/or=20
maintenance—for instance, does a brake job cost twice as much as for =
an=20
average American/European car? Oh, I forgot, each of these cars has=20
mileage in the upper 60,000s. Is it mandatory that we garage this car?
If you don’t feel like answering these questions, can you suggest=20
where we should go? =20
From: Gunnar Helliesen gunnar@bitcon.no
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 1996 07:15:57 +0100
Subject: RE: opinion
Folks,
I mistakenly thought that the message I replied to was a posting to Jag
Lovers when in fact it was a personal message to me from a person who
had read my Jaguar web pages. I’m sorry, I should have looked at the
“from” and “to” headers before I replied and sent a copy to the list.
Anyway, I’ve sent a new mail to Robert explaining my mistake and telling
him all about Jag Lovers. If any of you would like to comment on my
advice to Robert, send him advice or simply wish him good luck please
make sure to send it to his email address at strauss@philly.infi.net or
at least cc it to him if you post it to the list.
Thanks,
Gunnar
Gunnar Helliesen | Bergen IT Consult AS | NetBSD/VAX on a uVAX II
Systems Consultant | Bergen, Norway | '86 Jaguar Sovereign 4.2
gunnar@bitcon.no | http://www.bitcon.no/ | Vicki who? What .sig virus?
-----Original Message-----
From: Gunnar Helliesen
Sent: Saturday, December 21, 1996 5:34 AM
To: ‘strauss’
Cc: ‘Jag, Lovers’
Subject: RE: opinionRobert,
I own an '86 XJ6 Sovereign and my experience so far is that's it's a very reliable car. Mine has clocked 180,000kms (~112,000 miles) and still runs like a dream. An '86 with only 60-70,000 miles sounds like a dream come true to me...
From: Kyle Chatman kchatman@mail.coin.missouri.edu
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 1996 06:56:48 -0600
Subject: What’s the matter? Question to tough? 1 to 3 wire 02 Sensor
Since I started this thread I thought that I should try to tie it up. The
thread stalled with the question of whether a heated 02 sensor would
bring the fuel injection system into closed-loop operation more quickly.
After all, it is not the only temperature related sensor and if it is not the
last sensor to come on-line then making it heat up faster would be of
little use.
If I’m not mistaken, we ended with John Napoli responding to Kirkbert,
“Gee, I thought that factors like coolant temperature tell the ECU to
invoke closed loop mode, and that O2 sensor readings are used to provide
feedback control. There are other signals that likewise tell the ECU to
‘forget about’ closed loop, like vacuum or throttle switch enrichment
signal, or shifting into Park or Neutral.”
Pardon my ignorance, but wouldn’t the O2 sensor have to produce readings
to be of use in closed loop? Or, is John saying that the O2 sensor is
producing readings before coolant temperature reaches threshold? TIA
From: Kyle Chatman kchatman@mail.coin.missouri.edu
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 1996 07:08:46 -0600
Subject: Virus Warning
Because we have no virus warning before us, I thought that the following
advice might be of use. I believe that the warnings we have read were
shared with the best of intentions and I would be as concerned as anyone
else if some alpha geek finds a new way to cause trouble.
Before issuing a warning …
If you hear of a virus being spread and want to warn your mates, please check
www.symantec.com/avcenter/valert.html or a similar site before warning others.
After all, your warning may be the only virus symptom.
From: southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja)
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 1996 08:49:32 -0700 (MST)
Subject: XK Tappet Guide FAQ V1.0
Below is a rough draft of an XK Engine Stakedown FAQ.
If anyone has writeups of your intallations (Ryan, Jeffrey), please
send them to me and I’ll add 'em in.
/\ Lawrence Buja http://www.cgd.ucar.edu/cms/southern
_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
________________Boulder,Colorado___80307-3000
Jag-lovers XK Engine Tappet Retainer Stakedown FAQ
(V1.0 rough draft Dec 1996)
Lawrence Buja
southern@ncar.ucar.edu
A. Overview:
Jaguars with the classic XK straight-6 dual-overhead valve engines are
prone to having the steel tappet guides in the aluminum head come loose
and crash around inside the engine with disastrous results (see section
C).
A common fix is the “tappet guide stakedown kit” which mechanically
holds the tappet guides in place.
B. Questions:
-
WHICH JAGUARS ARE AFFECTED BY THIS PROBLEM?
This problem does NOT affect the V12 engined Jaguars. (all years)
This problem does NOT affect the XJ40 and X300 sedans. (post-1987)This problem may occur in any of the Jaguars with the classic XK
straight-6 2.4L, 3.4L, 3.8L and 4.2L displacement engines.Since these failures appear to be related to the degree of heat
cycling which the engine experience, the most susceptible engines
seem to be the exhaust sides of later, emissions equipped, 4.2L in
XJ-6 sedans in the years 1974-1987. -
HOW TO I KEEP THIS PROBLEM FROM DESTROYING MY ENGINE?
The most common fix is to install a “tappet guide stakedown kit”
which mechanically holds the tappet guides in place.The stakedown kit are three small metal plates bolted to the head
underneath the camshaft on the exhaust side of the engine (see
question 8). These metal plates hold the press-fitted tappet guides
in place. -
WHAT WILL HAPPEN IF I DON’T HAVE THESE RETAINERS INSTALLED.
If you own a 4.2L XJ6, you stand a non-zero chance of destroying
your engine. Replacement XK engines cost around $US4000.
See the first posting in section C. -
HOW MUCH WILL IT COST TO INSTALL THE TAPPET GUIDE RETAINERS?
The retainer kit is relatively inexpensive, around $30.
Expect to be charged around $300 for a mechanic to install it. -
I LOVE TO SAVE MONEY, CAN I INSTALL THEM MYSELF?
This is probably not a do-it-yourself job unless you are very
experienced with engine work (see the postings below). -
IN SPITE OF THE FACT THAT I OWN A LUXURY JAGUAR, I’M REALLY
CHEAP|POOR|FRUGAL. HOW DO I DO THIS WITHOUT SPENDING ANY MONEY?Old graybeard XK mechanics have been known to use machine-screws
screwed into the aluminum head to mechanically hold down the
tappet guides. Do this at your own risk. -
HOW DO I CHECK THAT MY JAGUAR HAS HAD THE TAPPET RETAINERS FITTED?
The cheapest and easiest way is, with the engine off and cool,
to take off the oil cap and feel under camshaft, between the
first two tappet locations, for the metal retainers mentioned
in question 8. -
I’M STILL NOT SURE, HOW DO I TELL FOR SURE THAT THE TAPPET GUIDE
RETAINERS HAVE BEEN ADDED TO MY ENGINE?Viewed from the top, your engine looks like:
___ Intake side
| -------------------------.
| | Figure 1 (top view)
| -------------------------’
|–| * * * * * *
| -------------------------.
| |
|___-------------------------’
Exhaust sideTake off the valve cover on the exhaust side of the engine.
Disregard the round camshaft which sits on top. Underneath
the round camshaft, you will see the tops of the 6 exhaust
side tappet guides staring up at you as shown in Figure 1.___ Intake
| -------------------------.
| |-------------------------’ ## -------------------------. ##+ O O O O O O ___-------------------------’ ExhaustAgain, disregarding the round camshaft, the retainer kit in my
XJ6 looks like:|–|
|## -------------------------.
|##+ O===O O===O O===O | Figure 2a (top view)
|__--------------------------’
Exhaustwhere each === is a metal retainer.
From the side, it looks like:
|##+
|## === === === | Figure 2b (side view)## O O O O O O ExhaustThe retainers themselves are metal plates which look like:
___________________ Figure 3a: Top view. / \/ * * \ * indicates a bolt
* * Figure 3b: Side view=========================
* * * *Note: The retainers are not centered on the 9 or 3 o’clock
positions, as shown in Figure 2. Rather they are shifted
outboard from center and grip the tappet guides at the 7 or 4
o’clock position.Also, I’m assuming the existence of the lips shown in Fig 3b. For
some reason, I think they’re there, but I’ve never had the
retainers off, so I haven’t looked underneath them.
C. Postings from Jag-lovers on the subject:
- -From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
- -Subject: Re: XJ6 - SIII: tapping noise from engine
- -Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 23:42:08 -0500 (EST)
My 1985 XJ6 4.2 (88,000 mi.) developed a tapping noise recently. My mechanic
removed the valve cover and discovered a broken metal sleeve (valve lifter).
Unfortunately, metal pieces are circulating throughout my engine. I’m looking
at an engine rebuild or a new engine. My mechanic says he can install a new
engine for around $7,500. A mechanic who read my message posted in the
CompuServe Auto Forum says that new engines are not available and that a rebuild
should cost between $3,500 and $4,500.I’m most disappointed. I was under the impression that the XK engine was one of
the best. Has anyone else experienced this problem? And, can anyone shed light
on this new vs rebuild dilemna. I’d appreciate advise.Mark B.
Common enough. You missed the critical beginings of the tapping, when the tappet
guide first started working it’s way up (it broke the tappet guide, BTW, not
the lifter). This is exactly what the stakedown kit is for.
Rebuilt engines (including installation) typically run in the $4K range.
However, what evidence do you have that the entire engine is shot? Yes, the
tappet guide needs to be replaced. If the damage is not too severe, it is
possible to replace it and install the stakedown kit with the head still on
the car. However, I do not recommend such things. Pull the head, do a proper
installation of the guide, and a valve job while you’re in there.
If the engine has had some milage since the guide got broken, I would not be
too concerned about the metal pieces. The big chunks will migrate to the
bottom of the sump, and possibly out during the next oil change. the littlest
ones, the filings that can make it through the pickup strainer, will get
trapped by the oil filter. The biggest danger is the pieces getting caught
up in the timing chains/sprockets on their migration downward.
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
- -Date: Fri, 24 May 1996 14:01:06 +1200
- -From: John McDonagh MCDONAGJ@tui.lincoln.ac.nz
- -Subject: Re: xj6 Stakedown Kits
I have heard of the problem with loose tappet guides but it is very
uncommon in New Zealand and no one here “stakes down” their guides as a
matter of course. This would tie in with the posting about emission
controls and higher engine temperatures. We have no emissions
requirements on vehicles and overheating problems in Jaguars are also
uncommon so I would assume all these things are interrelated.
John McDonagh
Department of Accounting Finance and Property Studies
Lincoln University
Christchurch
New Zealand
- -Date: Thu, 23 May 96 13:28:35 PDT
- -From: spe00@eng.amdahl.com (Silas Elash)
- -Subject: Re: xj6 Stakedown Kits
David,
I have heard all kinds of opinions on the list. I talked with a
mechanic about it, and he told me that the problem really started to
appear on the XJ6 when emissions testing required a higher combustion
chamber temperature to get the emissions down. So the later model cars
have a more restrictive water inlet into the head. This higher temp
causes the problem due to the continual cycling from hot(now hotter) to
cold, etc, etc…- over time the cycling loosens the tappet sleeves. He
told me that the problem was unusual on an older car like my 62 MK2,
unless it had been over heated. The older motors run cooler and thus
have less stress on the tappet guides due to the lower temp range they
cycle thru.
All any of this tells you is that odds are lower on an older car. If
the car has been run hot- maybe you get the problem. Later model
“hotter” engine, more likely to get the problem. I would think that a
very old engine could also eventually have the problem, just because it
has gone thru more cycles???
Anyway, thats the scoop as far as I can tell. Predicting if your car
will have the problem, is like rolling dice. I guess most of us don’t
feel lucky- or don’t want to risk it, so we stake them down. I don’t
know if I would do it just for the sake of doing it - if I had no other
reason to open things up. In fact I have not done it on my 84 XJ6
(59,000mi.), but it has relatively low miles and I am going to wait.
Good luck,
Silas Elash
62MK2
84XJ6
- -Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 19:56:02 +0100
- -From: Jeffrey Gram Gram@eumetsat.de
- -Subject: XK engine stake down
XK engine stake down
Hi, As some may remember I fumbled my way to mount a stakedown kit with
the head on.
It is not as easy as it sounds the hardest part being drilling exactly
where you want to drill. The drill bit is very prone to “wandering”
while getting the first grip in the light alloy, and the tolerance on
the holes in the stake down plate do not allow much error. I had to
drill up the holes on several, and I damn near splintered a tapped
guide, when “easing” one into position with a sledgehammer. One tappet
bucket didn’t fit after the stake down kit was mounted, until i realised
the guide was under deformation… Own fault of course. Off again and
drill the hole in the stake down plate bigger to correct for the drill
position error. One fatal error and the whole work is lost and
professional help is needed to get head off , new guides
in… $$$$$$$$$$$$
Dont forget you need to get camshafts off, where there are other traps
laying waiting for the innocent DIY’er : you could lose a valve sprocket
bolt or lock plate down the chain housing - this will set the repair
back by another two weeks, getting either the engine front off (bonnet,
radiator etc…or turn thecar upside down and shake it vigorously…
Or you could get the valve timing wrong an re-assembly - Just ask Ryan
Border
Still want to do this ?
OK :
Tapping in aluminium requires the tap to be wetted with alcohol, however
for this particular operation a more sticky material is better to get
the cut bits up. Compressed air is great (when all other oil holes are
covered up with cloth.
There is a way to tap which is called two step forward, one step back,
two step forward, etc. This MUST be obeyed or the risk is a broken tap
in the head and then you are really stuck.
Holding the tap perpendicular to the head is also not that easy
especially if you have never done it before., buy extra taps and train
yourself on a scrap piece og aluminium.
Frankly speaking, I would not attempt this if I hadn’t been drilling and
tapping for 25 years now on a DIY hobby basis, (Ok less experience will
also do). But realise there is a fair chance to get it wrong.
I will send you my description from february this year.
Regards Jeffrey Gram
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #597
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jag-lovers-digest Sunday, 22 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 598
Conversions
Conversions
Break fluid transfer between resevoirs
At wits end V12
Re: XJ Tappet Guide FAQ V1.0
Listen up XJ-S Owners, cheap parts ahead.
Re: What’s the matter? Question to tough? 1 to 3 wire 02 Sensor
Re: Listen up XJ-S Owners, cheap parts a
general
Re: Conversions
Re: What’s the matter? Question to tough? 1 to 3 wire 02 Sensor
Looking for parts
XJ40: Stiffer Steering?
"During this holiday season of majestic inspiration,
Introduction and ??
Re: XJ6 Series III
Series I XKE coolant leak
Back from France, appreciating the V12
stakedown
Wood finishes – Good article
ABS fault-what next
From: Martin Mogavero mmogaver@erols.com
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 1996 10:10:00 -0500
Subject: Conversions
Well, this is my 4th attempt at mail.
I have done a few conversions to a XJS and the XJ6 to a chev power
plant. This makes the Jag major fun to drive, although the purists hate
it. I would be happy to answer questions about this conversion.
Does anyone have any comments on replacing brakes? I replaced both front
rotors and pads and I now have a bad shake upon appling the brakes. I
assume the rotors have warped although they worked fine initially.
I have installed gabrial shocks and the ride is a bit firmer but good.
It brought the rear up also as one of the four was blown.
From: Martin Mogavero mmogaver@erols.com
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 1996 10:44:25 -0500
Subject: Conversions
This is a transfer test.
From: p.hyslop@utoronto.ca (p.hyslop)
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 1996 12:04:50 -0500
Subject: Break fluid transfer between resevoirs
THE PROBLEM:
I have a 74 XKX-V12. I recently noticed that there is transfer of
brake fuid through the system (no external leaks). What happens is that
fliud seems to drain out of the upper rear resevoir (master cylinder
resevoir) and fills up and then causes overflowing of the lower front
resevoir (servo cylinder).
As far as I can see there are only two places where there is any
possibility for the front and rear brake fluids to exchange:
a) shunting across the seals/around the piston of the servo cylinder.
b) leaking across the PDA switch block.
Apparently the servo and the master cylinders were rebuilt with a
kit about a year ago … So, if it is the servo cylinder that’s leaking,
then either the cylinder is gored, the kit was crap/not installed properly
or … it isn’t the servo!
There was some minor deterioration in braking efficiency (DON'T
WORRY, it’s off the road now for repairs) … which is compatible with
failure to properly actuate the rear fluid system at the servo rather than
leakage at the pressure differential activator (PDA) switch sensor block.
THE QUESTION:
Could anyone tell me which is most likely?
What should I do about it?
If it is the servo cylinder should I just buy a new assembly (How
much? Who from?) or have it rebored/lined and rebuilt (How much? Who
from?)?
Happy Holidays
Peter
74 XKE-V12 Roadster
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 1996 11:38:08 -0600
Subject: At wits end V12
I let the thing set for 4 days as we have had bitter cold weather so I could
not work in it.
Went out this morning and cranked it up. Started perfectly and ran for
11-15 seconds just like before, except this time I used the accelerator to
push it up to 2000 rpm and hold it there.
The fact that the accelerator is working says the idea someone expressed,
that I was running on the cold start injector only, is not correct. All the
injectors are working fine during that 11-15 second period before it shuts off.
This was just a pre test, to see that nothing had changed, before I started
working on it again.
Then I looked very carefuly around to make sure nothing was disconnected
from when I was working on the distributor last week. I found a wire that
came from the ignition amplifier that appeared to be grounded through the
intake manifold due to being pinched under the amp. This is the wire that
goes into a huge heavy sleave that seems far to big for the single small
wire in its center. The other two wires go to the ignition coil. I
repaired the insulation on that wire and reconnecrted it after pinching the
connector a little tighter. I cleaned up the two bolts that mount and
ground the amp and re attached the amp to the intake manifold.
By now several minutes had passed so I assumed the “time out” effect that
wont let me re start had elapsed. Either I had not waited long enough or I
now have a new problem since it would not kick even once on trying to
restart it.
I am now waiting for the usual 10 minutes to see if it will restart once
again and hopefully run longet than 15 seconds. I am not expecting it.
Jim
“I don’t fear death, I just don’t want to be there when it happens” W.Allen
1970 E-Type 2+2
1974 Bricklin SV-1
1978 44’ Ketch “Millennium Falcon”
“This is the ship that made the Castle Run in less than 12 parsecs”
Hans Solo
1979 Lola Formula Atlantic
1985 XJS
1985 XJ6
From: Kroppe kroppe@mich.com
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 1996 12:50:13 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ Tappet Guide FAQ V1.0
Three cheers for Lawrence Buja’s excellent documentation of this
subject.
Yes, there is a “lip” on the side of the tappet guide holddown plate. I
had mine off during my rebuild. When re-installing them, I asked my
machine shop to use larger diameter allen-head machine screws. (1/4" or
5/16" comes to mind). The original screws installed when I bought my
car were wimpy little sheet metal screws, which sheared off, allowing
one tappet guide to rise out of its bore and get obliterated by the
exhaust cam.
Jeffrey Gram’s experience notwithstanding, I heartily second the
recommendation that the stakedown kit be installed by a machine shop. I
am pretty confident in all types of work on cars, but I do not own a
drill press. Accurate drilling equipment takes most of the risk out of
installing the stakedown kit. Yes, Jeffrey proved that it can be done
by hand, but the risk increases of drastically messing up your engine.
southern@sol.cgd.ucar.EDU (Lawrence Buja) wrote:
Below is a rough draft of an XK Engine Stakedown FAQ.
If anyone has writeups of your intallations (Ryan, Jeffrey), please
send them to me and I’ll add 'em in.
B.J. Kroppe - '82 XJ6
From: JISBELLJR@mail.utexas.edu (James A. Isbell)
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 1996 13:59:45 -0600
Subject: Listen up XJ-S Owners, cheap parts ahead.
I finaly got the XJ-S going again. Not real good yet, but running.
I dont know why it happened, but while the distributor was off for rebuild
the ignition amp decided to die. Strange that it did it with the car not
running.
The symptom for all who missed my previous posts was that when started the
car ran for about 15 seconds then just quit.
This happend about 8 times before it just gave up for good. Each time it
could not be restarted until I waited 10 minutes until the last time when it
could not be restarted period.
Grasping at straws I opened up the Lucas Ignition Module and found inside a
1977-1980 Chevy Caprice 305 ignition module.
Is this a “Lump” module…#8-)?
I purchased a new one for $17.45 at the corner parts store. Ill bet Lucas
gets big dollars for that module which as far as I can see contains only the
GM module, a transformer, and a capacitor. The capacitor is for radio noise
supression and is not essential to the running of the car. I left mine out
since I think it should be replaced and the parts store didn’t have one.
I’ll get around to that later.
Any way, it runs now. A little rough and gutless but I think that must be
the timing since I made no attempt to time it after the distributor rebuild.
Thats tomorrows job.
The old ignition module is stamped with the number 613-4G21 and the initials GM
The new one is an after market unit made by E-Tron “DURALIFE”. It is
stamped Heavy Duty, High Temp, Burned in. The “Duralife” module number is
D-1906(HT) and is marked on the box as interchangeable with Standard LX301
or Niehoff DR400 or Echlin TP45 or Borg-Warner CBE4 or Wells DR100 or G/P
EL102. Lots of choices there. The parts man said any big chevy with
electronic ignition uses it.
Jim
“I don’t fear death, I just don’t want to be there when it happens” W.Allen
1970 E-Type 2+2
1974 Bricklin SV-1
1978 44’ Ketch “Millennium Falcon”
“This is the ship that made the Castle Run in less than 12 parsecs”
Hans Solo
1979 Lola Formula Atlantic
1985 XJS
1985 XJ6
From: Victor Naumann jagdoc@erols.com
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 1996 16:50:22 -0500
Subject: Re: What’s the matter? Question to tough? 1 to 3 wire 02 Sensor
Kyle Chatman wrote:
Since I started this thread I thought that I should try to tie it up.
Pardon my ignorance, but wouldn’t the O2 sensor have to produce readings
to be of use in closed loop? Or, is John saying that the O2 sensor is
producing readings before coolant temperature reaches threshold? TIA
I believe that the O2 sensor produces a reading right after startup, as
soon as exhaust flows past the tip. On an XJ40 the ECU ignores this
input ,substituting a fixed 2.5 V for about 45 - 60 sec and then the
Sensor starts switching and the ECU utilizes this for mixture adj. I
have always monitored this from the ECU, but if you check output at the
O2 sensor you should be able to see if it is producing readings.
Regards, Vic
From: John Goodman 101547.1141@CompuServe.COM
Date: 21 Dec 96 17:15:28 EST
Subject: Re: Listen up XJ-S Owners, cheap parts a
Jim you wrote:
<< I purchased a new one for $17.45 at the corner parts store. Ill bet
Lucas gets big dollars for that module which… >>
Today I just purchased a Lucas power amp, because I think it’s what’s
wrong with mine (hope, wish, wish). This goes for a few days then cuts
out unexpectedly, and like yours restarts after 5 -10 mins.
You just made me pig sick, I paid 169 UK pounds (about 268 USD !!!). If
not for the time difference here… maybe I could have saved a bit !
However, this may be different from the standard XJ-S amp as mine has a
Jaguar Sport part no.SPD 1108. But from the outside it sure looks the
same, wait till I get the old one opened up tomorrow and see that GM
logo !!!
John Goodman
'89 Jaguar Sport XJR-S 6.0L
From: Martin Mogavero mmogaver@erols.com
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 1996 21:16:06 -0500
Subject: general
I have used gabriel gas shocks and they work fine. It did make the ride
a bit stiffer but this may be due to me being used to the worn out boge
shocks.
Has any one found a way to speed up the jag windows? They are
particularly slow in the winter.
From: Larry Lee leelarr@mail.auburn.edu
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 1996 21:23:26 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Conversions
On Sat, 21 Dec 1996, Martin Mogavero wrote:
I have done a few conversions to a XJS and the XJ6 to a chev power
plant. This makes the Jag major fun to drive, although the purists hate
it. I would be happy to answer questions about this conversion.Does anyone have any comments on replacing brakes?
I’ve not heard of anyone replacing Jaguar brakes with Chevy. As for my
comments, you wouldn’t want to hear them! What fun!
Larry Lee
Auburn, AL, USA
1979 XJ4.2, SII (A real one … and it stops well, too!)
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 1996 22:48:35 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: What’s the matter? Question to tough? 1 to 3 wire 02 Sensor
Since I started this thread I thought that I should try to tie it up. The
thread stalled with the question of whether a heated 02 sensor would
bring the fuel injection system into closed-loop operation more quickly.
After all, it is not the only temperature related sensor and if it is not the
last sensor to come on-line then making it heat up faster would be of
little use.
I thought I covered this quite clearly in my first response. The heated O2
sensor will not put a SIII L-Jet ECU into closed loop any faster. The
ECU monitors engine temp to determine when to start going closed loop,
not the output of the O2 sensor. This is the way things were designed.
There is even curcuitry in the ECU to bias the O2 “input” to 0.5v (dead
center) to deal with the case of a bad or too cold O2 sensor.
However, the heated sensor can keep the ECU from getting a false signal
due to a cooled off O2 sensor that can happen under certain conditions.
As an example, I stated that my cars have have been converted to heated
sensor because of the long multi-branch headers I use.
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
From: bspringer@juno.com (William E Springer)
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 1996 23:45:11 EST
Subject: Looking for parts
During the process of restoring a 1970 2+2 I need help in locating clips
for the headlight rings. Have not had any lucky with the list from the
Jaguar Suppliers list.
Any help would be appreciated.
Bill
bspringer@juno.com
From: cobac@ix.netcom.com
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 1996 21:26:40 -0800
Subject: XJ40: Stiffer Steering?
Is it possible to get stiffer steering out of my car (89 xj40)? Just
driving a 92 300e (sorry everybody) and I noticed how much heavier and more
stable the steering was. The M/B has the recirculating ball steering, while
the jag has rack&pinion. I notice the imperfections from the road in my
steering a lot, it doesn’t seem as isolated from the road as the M/B. Plus
it doesn’t plant itself to the road, you must always hold the steering
wheel. Maybe I need wheel balance or those “rack bushings” or something?
Thanks for any info
Eric
From: RMac@aol.com
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 00:31:09 -0500
Subject: "During this holiday season of majestic inspiration,
we proudly present you with one of our own."
Jaguar Cars has produced a nice greeting card for the holidays featuring the
original E-type. I have scanned in the painting - a watercolor - and place
it on my web site for those of you who wish to track it down.
Robert MacLeay (rmac@aol.com)
1990 XJ40 VdP Majestic
Had a Peugeot, now I have a Jaguar.
Had a PC, now I have a Macintosh.
Life is good.
From: “Mike McKinney” mikem@i-link.net
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 05:31:33 -0600
Subject: Introduction and ??
Hi All,
My name is Mike McKinney, I've been monitoring the list for about a month
now, since realizing that while a Nissan 300zx is a great image car for a
newly single 46 year old, it leaves a lot to be desired as one’s only car!
Moving out of a house into an apartment proved a real challenge Any
way I finally succumbed to my love of the XJ6. This weekend I bought an 85
series 3 with 117K miles. The car is maroon with black interior. The
paint is faded on the hood and trunk( not badly, but noticeable) and the
leather’s color is gone in some of the creases, but is otherwise in good
shape cosmetically. I had the car checked out by a local Jaguar mechanic
who told me a great deal about it. It needs: shocks and brakes all around,
front ball joints and rear differential oil seals. On the plus side, the
transmission needs adjusting but appears to be new as does the engine( if I
bring it back for work, he says he will research that to be sure.) My
ultimate goal is to swap in a 350 chevy with T700 trans, and if the engine
is a replacement, he will buy it from me.
Many questions.
The work it needs comes to about $2000. With my son’s clapped out Toyota
in trade, I picked it up for $4000. Did I get a good deal?
Anyone familiar with KYB shocks on the XJ6? I had a set on my Z and they
were great!
I can do the front brakes myself, but I’ll leave the rear brakes and seals
to the pro. Any recommendations as to pads? Any upgrades around for the
Jag’s brakes?
Any ideas on the leather? the seats are black and as I said the color is
gone in what appears to be some of the natural creases in the leather.
Also it is fairly stiff. I picked up some Lexol cleaner and conditioner,
but what kind of dye should I use and should I do that before or after I
clean and condition the leather?
Are Moog ball joints better than OEM pieces?
The cruise control is DOA. Any ideas? I have a factory manual on order but
my Haynes book is silent on that topic.
Anybody have any experience with V8 conversions from John’s Cars in Dallas?
How the hell does the climate control work! I can tell it’s an automatic
system, but why an obvious cold/hot lever AND a temperature dial? How do
you engage the front defroster? Is the rear vent between the front seats
capable of cooling? Right now it seems to be only warm air. Needless to
say the owners manual was not with the car.
The last question is esthetic: My lest favorite part of the car is the
steering wheel. I don’t want a humongously fat rim, but I definitely want
more to hold than the stock wheel. I like the look of wood, but like the
feel of leather. I’m considering a Nardi with wood rim and leather at 9
and 3 o’clock. Anybody have a wheel that turns them on? Any artistic
opinions?
In advance: THANKS,
Mike McKinney
mikem@i-link.net
Austin,TX
From: RogerS7642@aol.com
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 09:12:44 -0500
Subject: Re: XJ6 Series III
Please, I need some help.
I need to replace the front left floor panel which is integral with the
jacking point. I have tried to find a part number, but none is shown on the
microfiche, I have called a number of parts suppliers and I was sold the
equivalent after-market part for a Series II. It is part number 12097. It is
not the correct part and will need to be modified before it can be used.
Does anyone have any suggestions? Does anyone have the correct part number?
Is anyone in the U.K. producing the correct after-market part?
A response to E-mail would be much appreciated.
Roger
From: DHarr13177@aol.com
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 10:36:22 -0500
Subject: Series I XKE coolant leak
The small pipe from radiator to thermostat housing - about 3/4 inch diameter
; about 6 inches long ----- what material should it be made from ? Mine is
copper and leaks because the hose clamp deforms it. Should it be straight or
slightly S shape ?
Doug
From: Greg Meboe meboe@scs.wsu.edu
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 08:20:29 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Back from France, appreciating the V12
Fellow Jag owners
Just got back from Europe. I’m still jet lagged, so forgive my
strange writing style.
The jag was waiting for me outside my parents house. I
reconnected the battery, and the car struggled to life. After a few
minutes of warming up, I went for a drive. The car is deceptively fast
. However, there were a few things that I noticed, having driven only
new cars for the past 3 months. Some of you jag lovers will know what I’m
talking about.
The wipers are cheezy
The heating/ac is inadequate
The electricals are really flakey
I never thought I’d feel this way about the Jag. I have felt this
way about the Triumphs and MG’s that I’ve owned, which never was a
surprise. Since before I got my driver’s license, I have owned British cars,
and relied on them for daily transportation.
Oh well, I’ll be over those feelings in a few days, especially
after I have the opportunity to make a nice high speed freeway run.
There are a couple of things that I need help on:
The two red brake warning lights are on, and get brighter when the E-brake
is pulled. These lights are situated between the tach and speedo.
They’re only on when the car is in gear. The manual leads me to believe
that one of the brake circuits is not working, but this car sat still for
three months. This is a new problem. I fiddled with the brake fluid
switch, with no effect.
Does anyone have a radio for a 87 or newer XJ-S that they’d like to sell?
I realized that I have no radio, and I’d really like one.
Glad to be back…
Greg
Greg Meboe meboe@atc.boeing.com
Web site>> http://www.scs.wsu.edu/~meboe
Mechanical Engineer Boeing Payloads Division
'85 XJ-12 H.E. (daily) '67 Spit-6 '74 TR-6
From: MichaelHooker triumph1@gramercy.ios.com
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 14:39:48 -0500 (EST)
Subject: stakedown
hello,
after all the excellent info about the tappet guides, a question.
after one detects a strange noise, how does one tell exactly that the tappet
guides need to be staked down? do they move by hand, do they protrude, are
there wear patterns? also, if one is loose, should it be staked or is it too
late?
Mike Hooker
From: Kyle Chatman kchatman@mail.coin.missouri.edu
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 14:28:08 -0600
Subject: Wood finishes – Good article
You might want to checkout “Oil-Varnish Mixture is Durable, Easy to =
Apply” (p. 48-51) of the current issue of Fine Woodworking (122). The =
author recommends a mixture of about 1/3 spar varnish, 1/3 tung or =
boiled linseed oil, and 1/3 turpentine for a durable, easy finish. I =
have recommended a mixture of tung or linseed oil and turpentine or =
mineral spirits because its an easy way for anyone to get good results =
- – partly because there is no need for a dust-free environment or =
special tools and partly because the final finish is easily controlled =
by the number of coats applied. The addition of spar varnish should =
prove useful in decreasing movement due to moisture and increasing =
durability. Apparently the combination also shares an oil finish’s =
ability to be easily touched up without extensive rework. Anyway see the =
article if interested. One hint though. Regardless of the finish =
selected, to keep wood movement due to changes in moisture content to a =
minimum, apply the finish to all sides.
From: Rod Farmer 100646.664@CompuServe.COM
Date: 22 Dec 96 16:49:35 EST
Subject: ABS fault-what next
ABS -XJ40 VDP (Daimler)
I am still ‘examining’ my ABS system on my Jaguar XJ40 (VDP) looking for the
cause of a very illusive fault. The ABS operates as the car is coming to a stop.
Only at the very last turn of the road wheels and then for a few seconds I get
the brake pedal ‘pumping’ along with the ‘rattle’ of the ABS system. Other than
this, everything works fine, I just don’t want to keep using the car in case
something goes bang.
Thanks to all who have been in touch with some suggestions and ideas, I have
completed the following work. Changed all pads, checked sensors, changed brake
fluid, checked over/under voltage relay.
Still not found a faulty component and now want to check out a few wires. Can
anyone please help with following.
I need some idea as to the wiring to the ABS fail warning signal. This has
occasionally come on when the car is started for the first time in the morning,
sometimes when the brake pressure low light comes on. Both go out after running
the engine for a minute and pumping the brake pedal and don’t come on again
whilst driving. This situation does not happen very often.
Can anyone tell me how the warning light is triggered, as the only thing I know
is that the light comes on when the over/under volts relay is removed. As this
stops the ABS system working, the ‘ABS failed’ warning is lite up, as I would
expect.
I have heard of a driver who uses his XJ on the track and has modified his ABS
to be switchable. It is not to good for competitive use, so he just flicks a
switch to turn it off for the track and back on for the road. Any one else tried
this?
Thanks to all who have taken an interest and the trouble to get in touch, maybe
one day I can write the book on ABS problems as I seem to have them all, and
just might sort it out one day ; )
P.S. haven’t had a look at a Hains manual yet, do they cover my car? are they
any good?
Rod Farmer
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jag-lovers-digest Monday, 23 December 1996 Volume 02 : Number 599
Re: Back from France, appreciating the V12
Re: slow windows
Re: A little Jag content - how to prevent flat batteries ?
Re: Rear End Vent
Re: Idling engines.
Re: Snake oils
Re: Macintosh (zilch Jag content), Please stop!
At wits end V12
XJ40: Stiffer Steering?
Break fluid transfer between resevoirs
Re: XJ40: Stiffer Steering?
Yuletide greetings
XJ6 II bonnet catches
[none]
Re: What’s the matter? Question too tough? 1 to 3 wire 02 Sensor
XJS Purchase
Re: XJ40: Stiffer Steering?
Re: XJ6 Cam Covers
Battery Saver Info
Snake oils
BW 12 transmission
Re: Conversions
From: stephen kurtzman stephen@kurtzman.com
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 14:08:06 -0800
Subject: Re: Back from France, appreciating the V12
However, there were a few things that I noticed, having driven only
new cars for the past 3 months. Some of you jag lovers will know what I’m
talking about.
The wipers are cheezy
The heating/ac is inadequate
The electricals are really flakey
I never thought I’d feel this way about the Jag. I have felt this
way about the Triumphs and MG’s that I’ve owned, which never was a
surprise. Since before I got my driver’s license, I have owned British cars,
and relied on them for daily transportation.
Greg, I guess it’s time for a new Jag, like maybe an XJR or an XK8. The
wipers are great. The heating and ac are perfect… But, the electricals
are still a little flakey so you don’t miss the Jag experience completely.
From: Juliansean@aol.com
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 18:13:38 -0500
Subject: Re: slow windows
In a message dated 96-12-21 21:20:06 EST, mmogaver@erols.com (Martin
Mogavero) writes:
<< Has any one found a way to speed up the jag windows? They are
particularly slow in the winter. >>
I have always though that this was due to a lot of voltage drop in the wiring
to the windows. The windows (under load) don’t get a full 12 v due to
resistance thru the switch etc. If the system were re-wired using power
relays close to the window itself, large guage power wiring from the battery
to the relay, and the console switches to operate the relays the windows
might work faster.
I think this is a retrofitting procedure for some Rolls Royce cars which
suffer the same malady.
Julian Mullaney
From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 20:23:40 -0600
Subject: Re: A little Jag content - how to prevent flat batteries ?
From: grahamw@microsoft.com To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: A little Jag content - how to prevent flat batteries ?
Date: Thursday, December 19, 1996 10:38 AM
Does anybody know of a product which can disconnect the battery if it
starts to run flat, so that there is always enough left to turn the
engine over. If so, where can I get one, if not, anybody wanna have a go
at making one ?
I believe I saw just such a device for sale in a J.C. Whitney catalog. I
works by detecting the current draw an the battery, if there is sufficient
drain then it disconnects the battery from the circuit. I think it takes
into account the small drain imposed by the clock and the computer memory
(on some cars) At one time there was a battery for sale with a switch
that would activate reserve cells in the battery that would not be drained
if lights were left on.
All of this seems like gimickery and can’t replace being attentive to
whats is left on in the car. But never fear it was only a few weeks back I
left the headlamps on and returned to one very dead car.
Tim
“Cogito Ergo Lpomoea Batatas”
I think therefore I yam
From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 18:19:05 -0600
Subject: Re: Rear End Vent
From: bshipley@mail.tds.net To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Rear End Vent Date: Tuesday, December 17, 1996 12:09 PM
Also, a interesting tidbit. This same mechanic told me that he had
installed a Lucas ignition amplifier on a XJ. He dis-assembled the old
amplifier (also marked Lucas) to find that it was an off the shelve GM
amplifier that sells for about $20.00
Inside the Lucas ignition amplifier used on Series III and XJSes the
primary module is a GM HEI module. Jaguar says the module is not the same
one used in 74 up GM distributors… Jaguar claims that the module is the
same functionally but is a heavier duty version… whether this is hogwash
or not I really can’t say…
The ignition module it appears to be like is found in GM distributors
that have mechanical advance, they may or may not have vacuum advance due
to the fact that the inductive pick-up on heavy duty trucks is held in
place by a plastic piece that eliminates the vacuum advance. Once the
cover on the Lucas assembly is removed the module can be removed and
replaced. I did a cursory exam of one and it looks like the GM module’s
function is to latch and unlatch the gate of a heavy duty SCR… sort of
like a switch for a switch… the setup is extremely reliable… The main
drawback is that the GM module has a tendency to retard the spark a degree
or two above 6000 RPM.
If I just had to replace the module I would be very tempted to use a heavy
duty Mallory unit.
“Cogito Ergo Lpomoea Batatas”
I think therefore I yam
From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 20:09:05 -0600
Subject: Re: Idling engines.
From: baard@telesoft.no To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Re: Idling engines.
Date: Thursday, December 19, 1996 12:18 PM
To Mike Bittner (and others), I’m not sure why, but ever
since I was a little boy mocking about in my fathers
workshop (ship repairs), I’ve heard that one of the worst
things you can do to an engine, is to fire it up and let it
idle for several minutes thereafter. I assume it has to do
with lubrication; the engine will not lubricate properly from
stand-still until it’s put under load. Naturally, engines may
differ in this respect, but I’ve made a habit of minimizing
the tick-over period in all my cars.
I’m not sure how that bit of wisdom got started but I can speculate that
it’s because of the oil pressure involved in engines of the type you
encountered then. It’s an interesting thing that the majority of engine
wear occurs during cold starts. Perhaps thats where the axiom came from
that an engine lubricates properly under load
With todays engines and pump designs the only criteria I observe is that
the gauge registers quickly or the light goes out quickly. When the oil
wedge is formed between the bearings the cam lobes and cylinder walls the
engine is safe from wear. The major factors are the pump design and
bearing clearances.
A good example is the 4.3 liter GM Vortec engine, a crate engine will
develop between 30 to 40 psi at an idle, this equates to about 2 to 2.5
bar. Quick an sufficient oil pressure is vital to an engine with a
centrally located cam.
A jag with the proper bearing clearances and a good pump develops a
consistent 35 psi at an idle.
For those of you leaving on X-mas holiday this week, across the Globe:
Merry Christmas and a Prosperous New Year!
Thanks!!
We’re going up to our mountain cabin (chalet) the day after boxing day,
and stay
there the rest of the year, but I’m not signing off until Monday week.
Have a wonderful time. I wish I could see some of the scenery I know you
will be enjoying.
Tim
“Cogito Ergo Lpomoea Batatas”
I think therefore I yam
From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 18:47:06 -0600
Subject: Re: Snake oils
From: barnesl@naswi.navy.mil To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: Snake oils Date: Wednesday, December 18, 1996 12:51 PM
Dear Jag Lovers: Not too long ago some one asked about
oil additives. I came across this on the net and though it
interesting reading. From my personel experiences, “SLICK
50/auto trans additive” caused me to buy a new over-drive
unit for my 87 vet, by pluging the oil holes to it’s front bearing.
LarryB
Thanks for the posting… one thing is for sure I’ll not look at addatives
the same way again.
Any idea where the “dead tree” edition of this report can be found? or
material like it?
Tim
“Cogito Ergo Lpomoea Batatas”
I think therefore I yam
From: “pcsolutions” pcsolutions@mindspring.com
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 19:35:37 -0600
Subject: Re: Macintosh (zilch Jag content), Please stop!
From: gunnar@bitcon.no To: jag-lovers@sn.no
Subject: RE: Macintosh (zilch Jag content), Please stop!
Date: Wednesday, December 18, 1996 7:07 PM
Folks,
This Thread From Hell has single-handedly destroyed my favourite
newsgroup, alt.folklore.computers. This used to be a nice and friendly
forum for discussing the computers, software and Field Service Engineers
of the olden days of computing. Today it’s a quagmire of never-ending
flamewars between the Mac-Evangelists and the PC-diehards. All the nice
(and very knowledgeable) people who used to hang out there have long
since left. Please, please, let’s not allow this stupid and pointless
thread to poison Jag Lovers as well. Let’s stop it now. Gunnar
AMEN!!! Brother Gunnar! (tongue in cheek of course)
and rightly so…
Ignorance of the Macintosh is the universal reason for most people’s
use of
more primative and certainly more time consuming, frustrating, and
mindlesslymacho machines.
Speaking of macho machines… my bid to buy the Jag fell through…
DAMN!!! oooops… but I did use some of my stash cash to visit a very
special friend in central Florida (Kissimmee) and had what can only be
described as a near Jag experience. Once you consider the curves involved
it was a fine ride indeed… ummmmm road-testing Jag I mean…
Tim
Still Jag-less (sniffle)
“Cogito Ergo Lpomoea Batatas”
I think therefore I yam
From: “Jan Wikstr�m” 104707.3644@CompuServe.COM
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 22:26:51 -0500
Subject: At wits end V12
Sorry, Jim; I’ve been off the air due to an e-mail problem and didn’t catch
your original question. The 11-15 second running time sounds to me
remarkably like the fuel pump holding relay failing to come in, but the
long delay before you can retry doesn’t…
The ignition wires you mention don’t sound quite like my V12s. For one
thing, my ignition amps are mounted on the radiator cross member, not on
the engine. Mine have three wires between the distributor and the
amplifier; these are ground, AC feed to pickup, AC return from pickup (fine
system, in passing - each plug gets a series of sparks during cranking, and
the engine can actually start without cranking if the wind is in the
northwest). There are two more wires between the coil and the amplifier;
one (from coil+) is actually the supply+ feed to the amplifier, the other
(coil-) is the breaker-point equivalent. Yes, folks, the Lucas Opus of '70s
vintage is not a CD system feeding boosted voltage and current to the coil;
it’s a straight breaker-point replacement.
I had intermittent ignition troubles on both V12s and traced them to
various breaks and bad contacts in these five leads, worst where the three
trigger leads leave the distributor. Since replacing all these wires in
their tatty and kinked entirety, I’ve had no trouble at all. Do thou
likewise…
- -Jan
P.S.: “No trouble at all” doesn’t include last week, when a rat built a
nest in the valley of the sedan engine and ate most of the wiring,
including the HT leads. Hardly the fault of the car…
From: “Jan Wikstr�m” 104707.3644@CompuServe.COM
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 22:26:56 -0500
Subject: XJ40: Stiffer Steering?
Eric (snip):
Maybe I need wheel balance or those “rack bushings” or something?
<
Definitely; while the Jaguar power steering is rather light, it should be
completely steady, allowing hands-off driving even on bumpy roads. When you
do overhaul it, get aftermarket plastic bushes; they don’t transmit any
more noise or vibration, but they get rid of the “slop” that Jaguar
deliberately designed in so as to make the car feel less intimidating to
inexpert drivers on motorways (my guess, but I can’t think of any other
reason for the design).
- -Jan
From: “Jan Wikstr�m” 104707.3644@CompuServe.COM
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 1996 22:26:46 -0500
Subject: Break fluid transfer between resevoirs
Sounds like you have a leak between the front and rear master cylinder
segments and the fluid squirts into the front compartment instead of
applying the rear brakes. It’s a fairly simple job to apply an overhaul
kit, and a light honing of the master cylinder bore should be enough to
remove any pitting.
- -Jan
From: Randy Wilson randy@taylor.infi.net
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 1996 00:14:12 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: XJ40: Stiffer Steering?
Definitely; while the Jaguar power steering is rather light, it should be
completely steady, allowing hands-off driving even on bumpy roads. When you
do overhaul it, get aftermarket plastic bushes; they don’t transmit any
more noise or vibration, but they get rid of the “slop” that Jaguar
deliberately designed in so as to make the car feel less intimidating to
inexpert drivers on motorways (my guess, but I can’t think of any other
reason for the design).-Jan
Jan, and Eric,
Sorry, gonna have to call you on this one. Eric’s car is an XJ-40. these
do not suffer from the curious XJ6/XJS rack mount design.
Tis still true that the car should track perfectly. I find the steering in
Jag’s to not be overly boosted; no where near as much as it’s American
counterparts.
Randy K. Wilson
randy@taylor.infi.net
From: Nick Johannessen nick@sn.no
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 1996 08:31:37 +0100
Subject: Yuletide greetings
Dear Jag-lovers,
just a short note to wish all subscribers a Merry Christmas
and a Happy New Year
As this time of the year traditionally is a time of few postings
to Jag-lovers you are hereby invited to think back over the year
that is coming to a close and put down in writing any nice memories
you might have of life with your Jaguar. A story posted is a story
shared
I’ll also take this moment to plug JagWeb.com again. Plenty of
new material to look at, with 5 articles from Jaguar World, the
XK Newsletters from Guy Broad and new pages from renowned author
Philip Porter, including details of his books and his collection
of interesting cars. The JagWeb is at http://www.jagweb.com
I’ll hopefully find time to do some work on the JagWeb - home of
the Jag-lovers - over the Christmas too, so please mail on any
material you would like included. For those that may have forgotten,
the URL is http://www.sn.no/home/nick/jaguar.html
Thats all from me for now. I’ll be keeping a watchfull eye on things
over the holiday as always.
Nick (admin)
From: “Arnold, Dr. Dave” davearno@sandton.senchem.co.za
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 1996 09:34:47 +0200
Subject: XJ6 II bonnet catches
From: Curt Onstott onstottc@ucs.orst.edu
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 1996 13:01:39 -0800
Subject: Hood Pops open! SII XJ6
Curt Onstott wrote:
…I have a '75 SII XJ6. The right side of the hood pops open when I
hit a
bump or am cruising at a high rate of speed. I’ve tried to adjust and I
cant seem to eliminate the problem. What usually causes this? The left
side NEVER pops open…
Well, I guess this happens to most of us. IMHO, the answer lies in
adjustment, particularly the length of the pin. Try unscrewing the pin
a couple of turns. As to why this problem happens, I have no idea.
Dave,
1980 XJ6 series II
1967 S-type
1947 1.5 litre (aka Mk IV)
“Toys-R-Ours”
From: Adrian Kealey adriank@manawatu.gen.nz
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 1996 23:49:37 +1300
Subject: [none]
New owner of 1964 Mk2 3.4.BRG
Had some fun with petrol pump,an “Autopulse”,overheating.Have now drilled
out points and riveted in new ones and it seems OK.What was the original
pump on this model?
From: Kyle Chatman kchatman@mail.coin.missouri.edu
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 1996 06:51:06 -0600
Subject: Re: What’s the matter? Question too tough? 1 to 3 wire 02 Sensor
Sorry Randy, I didn’t understand you to say that the O2 sensor was
definitely producing a signal when the engine temperature threshold was
reached. I thought that it was still possible that the ECU would be using
a fixed value and waiting on the O2 even after engine temperature was OK.
On a related topic, there is a posting available as “Oxygen Sensor Information” written by Rick Kirchoff (rick@posms.cactus.org) and edited to html by Kyle Hamar available at www.engr.ucdavis.edu/~avsmith/o2sensor.html that describes in-car and bench testing of the O2 sensor. I tried the bench test on mine, of unknown age, and it worked fine. In fact, it’s both easy and sort of fun to do. In response to my latest mailing on the topic Randy Wilson wrote
I thought I covered this quite clearly in my first response. …
From: ultrapak ultrapak@sprynet.com
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 1996 08:04:14 -0800
Subject: XJS Purchase
I’m interested in buying a XJS. My preference would be a six cylinder.
cansomebody tell me what year jag stopped making them with the six.
Sincerely
Mike Bittner
ultrapak@sprynet.com
From: John Goodman 101547.1141@CompuServe.COM
Date: 23 Dec 96 11:53:43 EST
Subject: Re: XJ40: Stiffer Steering?
Eric,
you wrote:
<< Is it possible to get stiffer steering out of my car (89 xj40)? >>
Yes, there are genuine Jaguar parts available for this.
These parts are from the '89/'90 Jaguar Sport XJR. Basically this was a
XJ40 3.6L with stiffer dampers, anti roll bars, suspension bushes,
wheels and a MODIFIED P.A.S. RACK VALVE. The '90 models had a more
powerful special 4.0L engine with modified cyl. head, cams, ECU, inlet
manifold & airflow meter etc.
The Jaguar part numbers I have for this p.a.s. rack valve and associated
bits are:
SPC 1061 p.a.s valve
SPC 1077 seal_p.a.s. valve
SPC 1078 quad ring_ p.a.s. valve
- I am not sure if these part numbers are specific for RHD racks, so
check first *
John Goodman
'89 Jaguar Sport XJR-S 6.0L
From: “Gregory W. Price” gprice@mack.rt66.com
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 1996 10:33:22 -0700
Subject: Re: XJ6 Cam Covers
Dan,
When I bought my Series III '85 XJ6, I found that the PO had overtorqued the
cam cover nuts and cracked the cover. My local Jag guru sold me a cover from a
Series 1 XJ6 to replace it. It bolted on perfectly. However, the
Series I cam cover had a half moon cutout for the tach drive, and my
series III cam cover didn’t. I had to fill in the half moon in the
back of the series I cover in order for it to fit and work properly.
Greg.
From: Dan Buringrud dano@castles.com
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 1996 17:48:53 -0800
Subject: valve coversHello All,
I have a question regarding the valve covers on an early fuel injected
XJ-6. I am putting the head off just such a beast into my 68 E-type.
My mechanic thinks that the covers are different, although they look
exactly the same.My question is this: Do the XJ6 valve covers have some sort of half moon
cutout at the bottom of the back where the hump for the cam gears are?
The covers on my 68 head are straight here. I don’t want to pay $100
for valve covers, if I don’t have to.Also, does anyone know if the exhaust manifolds on a 68 would have been
porcelained?Thanks for your help, and happy holidays to all of you.
Dan Buringrud
68 E type
Dano@castles.com
From: “Lee Walden” lwalden@ebmud.com
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 1996 10:32:52 -0800
Subject: Battery Saver Info
I was going through one of my numerous catalogs and came across this item:
Battery Buddy. This unique switch prevents dead batteries caused by
leaving the lights or accessories on. Safe and easy to install. Fits all
standard 12VDC top and side mounted terminal batteries. It will not switch
off the battery when hazard lights are in use, or when engine is running.
Not for use on Marine or Diesel operations. Catalog Number 15-782. USD $
45.95.
Obtain from Real Goods, 1-800-762-7325, 555 Leslie Street Ukiah, CA
95482-5576
For overseas orders call (01) (707) 468-9214. Web Site
http://www.realgoods.com
e-mail realgood@realgoods.com
Standard disclaimers apply.
Lee
From: barnesl@naswi.navy.mil
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 96 10:46:17 PST
Subject: Snake oils
Good morning Jag Lovers, It’s a great day to own a Jag:
Tim, you wrote: “Any idea where the “dead tree” edition of this report can
be found? or material like it?”:
I found it on the corvette net, (which you might also want to check out)
address is http://www.dcc.edu/vettenet/
The exact address for oil additives is:
http://www.dcc.edu/vettenet/oiladds.txt
You might also want to check out
http://skylands.ibmwr.org/tomk/sbr/tom/tech/oil_facts.html,
which is an excellent article on OILs.
From: “Jim Cantrell” jimc@sysdiv.sdl.USU.edu
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 1996 11:49:27 MDT
Subject: BW 12 transmission
In removing the engine and transmission from my 76 XJ12C, I have
noticed that the transmission has previously been worked on and is
painted orange. Since I have no way of knowing the service record of
this car, I am wondering if the transmission has been recently
rebuilt. My question to the group is if the BW12 transmissions came
from the factory in a bright orange color ? If not, I would imagine
that it has been rebuilt at some point. It is very clean when
compared to the rest of the car and the color seems out of character.
Those of you who have had yours out would no doubt see remains of the color.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Kind Regards,
Jim Cantrell
From: John Napoli jgn@li.net
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 1996 15:37:26 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Conversions
On Sat, 21 Dec 1996, Martin Mogavero wrote:
Well, this is my 4th attempt at mail.
I have done a few conversions to a XJS and the XJ6 to a chev power
plant.
Does anyone have any comments on replacing brakes? I replaced both front
rotors and pads and I now have a bad shake upon appling the brakes.
This is because when you apply the brakes, the pads realize what type of
engine is in there. The shudder is from them trying to jump out.
John
End of jag-lovers-digest V2 #599