Joel - good suggestion. I just pulled the IRS to install remote bleeds as well (Dave - you should seriously consider these). I left the brackets attached to the frame, but on re-install, I like your approach of putting them on the IRS with loose nuts to give a bit more of float to align the two top thru bolts.
Nick
I’ll give it another try with the way I’ve got it set up now (this is the method shown in the factory repair manual) then I’ll try that route.
I do wonder how the factory did it. I think it would have been easier for them to put all four mounts on the car and then raise the cage up to it. The long horizontal bolts that go through the chassis are a fairly tight fit. On the other hand, the holes in the cage that accept the studs are elongated and the two bolts that secure each mount to the car are fairly loose in their holes. This would give some play for offering up the cage.
I know some folks do it that way, but I had a dickens of a time getting the rear mount studs into the slotted cage holes using the factory recommended directions. I’m not sure trying to get all 4 to line up would be any easier.
Are those HS8 carbs from a Jag sedan manifold in the background Frank? Is there a thread about them? Presumably with some kind of manual choke moving the jet holders down?
Good eye.
(Plus 20 …)
Yes, Peter, they are HS8 from my XJ6 Jag. I know these Carbs. well, there is a manual choke moving part in one of them, maybe enough to start.
Had some difficulty with the choke on the XJ and tried without the choke to start and it was not a problem at all.
The intake is weld to get another stand.
Greetings Frank.
So good that I can estimate the head stud torque visually, to a hundred decimal places…
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