Just finished the front brakes on my 66 E-Type now tackling the rear. Is there anyway to pull the rear calipers Pistons without dropping the rear suspension?

E-Type
1

Is there any way to pull the rear calipers Pistons without dropping the rear suspension?

2

Well I did rebuild the pistons on my 64 without removing the rear end. Not fun but doable. When I had doubts/questions Dick Maury was always there.
Good luck
Dick

3

Thanks. Both of my rear calipers appear to be siezed. It’s been setting for over 15 years. I was going to order a new piston set and hoped to be able to extract the old ones and install the new without dropping the whole assembly. I’ll keep plugging away at the piston retaining bolts.
Lee

4

Replaced one faulty new caliper in the same way and on a '64. I think a good idea to ask a later model guy to see if the later calipers are too large to do the task this way. I have a suspicion they may not come out.

5

If you do have a 1966 S 1 car replacing the pistons is not the fix as the seal runs in the bore of the cylinder and is fixed to the piston. You will need to sleeve your existing ones or (preferably) but 4 new ones.

Drop the rear end. It is a lot easier to do this and it will enable you to remove the whole caliper and fix the handbrake mechanism too.

And while you’re at it, if the car hasn’t run for 15 years you may as well strip the whole IRS and rebuild it as well.

2 Likes
6

Lee its not that hard to drop the rear end.The calipers would probably have pitting by now and need replacing or resleeving anyway.You can also fit a couple of remote brake bleeders.Dont half do brakes
The seales in the rear end if origonal would by now definately be getting hard and probably start to leak when your back on the road.If the rear end is out you can do all the seals and check the bearings.The rear suspension mounts could also need replacing by now…Bite the bullet JOHN

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Drop the cage Lee, you will not regret it.
And once you do you will understand why.
And change your discs and diff seals as well, very easy if your bearings are in good shape, you won’t have to mess with preload and such, just mark and refit as before. If they aren’t, an other good reason…

8

I also vote to drop it and while it is down put in a set of remote bleeders. I would also have them resleeved by a group that has a CURRENT history of doing a good job. Finding out that long time established shops no longer have the guys with 40 years of experience.

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Yes my plan was to replace all four cylinders and pistons with new, not just the pistons. I did some rather extensive work on the rear suspension years ago, new shocks, u joints and outer hub bearings so that all good. But pinion seal should be replaced. I’m leaning towards dropping the unit.

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Yes I’m leaning towards dropping the assembly. Rotors are looking pretty nasty. I already purchased the remote easy bleeders from XKS and have a new set of suspension mounts somewhere on the shelf. Your right about the differential seals mine are leaking slightly.
Thanks for all of your input and suggestions.

11

Put in a set of stainless, Asian, brand new calipers from one of the West Coast usuals - this was some years ago and the part number they used was dropped from their site some time ago. One piston (these are and were the Series I style) had machine chatter marks and leaked around circumference. What a complete pain - I couldn’t believe where the fluid was coming from and it took some time to resolve. When I took the new, defective caliper apart I saw the machining failure. Replaced with an iron TRW branded unit from Terry’s. This was a Chinese unit, we hope under the supervision of the TRW parent company - who knows, but it doesn’t leak.

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You can definitely do it. I did it on a 64. Plan on using a torch and bending up a cheap 7/16 spanner to be able to do it though, maybe even a couple of them. There is very little wiggle room to loosen those caliper bolts.

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Wow I like ur approach

Lee

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You can certainly do it that way: all in all, it’s just easier–and takes less time-- to drop the IRS.

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Are the caliper bolts on the Series I only 7/16"?

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I believe those are really the piston/cylinder retaining bolts, four each per piston assembly not the actual caliper bolts. Three caliper bolts per caliper probably more like 5/8.
I can relate to what Erica said I’ve already removed several of those 7/16 bolts. Not easy especially while on my back

17

I removed all 4 rear pistons on my '68 without dropping the IRS or removing the calipers. I ground down a cheapo 1/4 inch drive socket and put it on a low profile handle to fit in between the pumpkin and the inboard pistons. I do not remember it being too difficult and I do not have a lift.

David
68 E-type FHC