I must say that besides being a very nice series, I was surprised that the engine was able to be started when just sitting on a roll-able platform. Getting close to installing my engine and have spent a lot of time thinking of a way to stabilize it so I could test my work, before installing it. Am I correct that this is due to the straight 6 configuration and that if it was a V8 or slant six, this would not be possible?
Lastly, I know the damper must be installed prior to engine installation due to the picture frame, but does the water pump and pulleys also have to pre-installed for the same reason?
It wouldn’t matter as long as the engine is on a suitable test stand.
My engine builder put all that together in his shop. The engine went in easily with those items already installed. The only items not on the engine when I put it in from below were the intake/carbs, exhaust manifolds, and alternator/AC bracket.
Thank you Marco and John. I am replacing some things, that although I have the originals, they are not in a condition that I feel suitable to re-install. Ie., the damper is probably OK but has some nicks and dings that if for no other reason, make it look trashy!! As such, I try to plan my purchases so I can continually move forward while I wait for items! If I was sure I could install the damper, pump and pulleys after the engine went in, the engine would go in tomorrow.
And John, when you say suitable engine stand, in the Junk E final episode, they start the engine with it just sitting on a wood base with the relatively minor support from their engine hoist cables???
I will install the engine from the bottom also, especially since I do everything by myself. However, I was always under the understanding that the damper and water pump and pulleys were difficult if not impossible to install with the engine in?
Mark,
69 E, just like yours, I installed the water pump after the motor was installed however the pulley has to be removed in order to do so Easily done, no problem just four bolts. Damper was removed and reinstalled with motor in place, just have to get creative tightening / torquing it down and bending the locking tab. Again easy and nothing compared to , lets say , replacing the heater pipes ,reinstalling the tank or setting the TB,s…
I WILL NEVER DO THAT AGAIN.
I WILL NEVER DO THAT AGAIN.
I WILL NEVER DO THAT AGAIN.
I WILL NEVER DO THAT AGAIN.
I WILL NEVER DO THAT AGAIN.
I WILL NEVER DO THAT AGAIN.
I hear you Paul. I’ve done them once and will stay away from ever doing it again…I hope. I can only imagine wrenching on these cars for years. Eventually, I would assume, it becomes muscle memory and you just do the job with minimal effort and time.
+1 to Marco’s comment on the damper. It absolutely can be installed with the engine in-place.
I have a PS + A/C car with two pulleys on front of the damper. (Getting the lock tab device to align exactly as you want it, with appropriate torque on the crank bolt, may or may not happen easily.)
That said, if you can put the damper on, tighten it and lock-tab it, before you install the engine, then I suggest you do. Same with the water pump. It will be a little easier overall.
Water pump yes, engine mounts NO. You MUST have the transmission installed when the engine goes in. Make sure the drive shaft is in the tunnel prior to installing the engine (if the IRS is in). Here is how my engine looked just before installing from the bottom up. I’ve put red arrows on some of the attachments I’d made prior to install.
Thanks for all the comments. I’m going to wait for my Damper. I was just anxious to get going on installing the engine, but it’s clearly going to be easier if I wait! I do have all the other items in Doug’s pic installed and ready to go. Every time I add a part to the car, my garage gets less and less cluttered and the car looks more and more like it hasn’t in 37 years!
