What is recommended lately in choice of batteries for a S1? Preferably affordable, normal, non-lithium. Must fit in the battery retaining frame, not just the bottom tray. I live in CA so cold starts are not an issue.
Your expert suggestions would be appreciated.
I recently bought SNGs “tar top” battery. If having a battery that looks period correct is important to you, I think you will like this one. And it does fit perfectly, including the retaining frame that fits over the top of the battery. Can’t tell you a thing about it’s longevity. Hopefully get back to me in about 5 years and I’ll know!
There’s a picture of it installed here:
BTW, it ships dry and you buy battery acid locally and add yourself. I got acid at Advance Auto for ~$20.
On the advice of the late Jerry Mouton I use a group 35 battery, specifically an Everstart Maxx 35-S from Walmart. I believe they are made by Exide. It fits and the terminals are where they should be.
Besides price, one consideration I found attractive is if I need a warranty replacement away from home I’m probably within 10-15 miles of a Walmart if I’m in the U. S.
I have always bought the cheapest battery, in the correct size (“group code”), I could find on-the-shelf at the local parts store. I have yet to have one fail in under ~7 years. Until a few years ago, typical cost was $40-50. A few years ago, battery prices seemed to almost double rather suddenly, so the same battery now costs $70-90. Here in CA, a large battery is not required, mine is actually smaller than stock, but I’ve never had a problem, even in very cold weather up in the mountains.
Regards,
Ray L.
I once had someone tell me the difference between the cheaper battery and the more expensive battery of the same line was the cost of the warranty for the more expensive battery. The argument was the batteries are the same and the difference in price simply buys you a longer warranty.
True or urban myth? I’ve no proof one way or the other.
Often true. Also your water heater, furnace, etc. Far too expensive to manufacture, and warehouse multiple lines. A warrantee is much cheaper. A good rule of thumb is the product will be designed to just out last the longest warrantee. Save your money, and purchase the lower line.
I get my batteries from either WalMart or Costco – both have many locations, cheap prices and no-hassle returns/exchanges.
My current battery in the E-Type is a group 35 from Costco (an Interstate battery). Stripping the labels off, replacing the bar-style caps with individual caps and adding a fake Lucas label makes it look less out of place.
sometimes the metal battery hold down will not fit. i had the sand down the sides to get it to slip over
Thank you Geo. I just got back from the Interstate distributor, and the gp 35 positively does not fit my bracket! Not even close. Not sandable. How is that possible? Original bracket.
I just installed a group 25 (Bosch 25-550B) in my S1 - the hold down fits.
This table may be helpful. Measure your hold down and find the battery that best fits it. But pay attention to the placement of the terminals
And,
This old thread may help, or confuse. Anyway it’s a blast from the past for those who have been here a few years.
FWIW I looked up the part number for the battery clamp. C.16474 is listed for all Series 1s and 2s. XKs lists the part (which they manufacture) and states “Interior dimensions of 9-1/4” x 6-3/4"" If the maximum dimensions listed in the link supplied by @John_Walker are correct, and the XKs product is an accurate reproduction, Type 25s and 35s could be too wide (6 7/8" vs 6 3/4") to fit the clamp. As the battery dimensions are listed as maximums, maybe some manufacturers batteries are a little undersized, and fit the clamp, whereas others do not. You may have to try other group 25 or 35 batteries to find one that really fits the clamp.
Maybe a bit of a highjack, but I was planning on putting an Optima group 35 redtop in my 70 2+2. Any issues with that?
At the Interstate distributor, their gp 25 fit into the bracket perfectly. It is taller by 1"+ than the gp 35. I will see if it fits when the car is there. Also, the bracket fits, but only without the rubber inserts that it comes with, right and left. The fit is that tight. AHGGRRRH…
Am I overthinking this? Just slam something in there sans bracket?
The Interstate battery I got from Costco measures 8¾" x 6 5/8" – if anything it is just a bit on the small side. My bracket came from SNG.
The details on the battery are:
Group Size 35
Item # 852169
CCA 550
36-month Free Replacement
Cost was $72.99 + tax.
I am out of touch on batteries I think since I have not needed to replace one in several years. I went with the Optima red top in all my cars since venting acid can do so many nasty things in the battery area. No problem with that since going with the Optima and for me they have all lasted a very long time. Is this a potential problem still with the Walmart/Costco type batteries you all are speaking of ?
David
68 E-type FHC
Here’s an Optima installation (no acid leaks). It fits in the tray depicted in the link. The tray drops into the existing cavity with a few small modifications (of the tray) and bolts to the bottom of the cavity. The battery fastens to the tray at the bottom edge.
New battery this week. Sears diehard, group 35 just squeezed in side to side. About a half inch short front to back. 130$
None. Had one for 9 years .
Marco
If the lead/acid batteries are being overcharged then yes, you could have a problem with acid & fumes. But if the alternator and alternator control are doing their job then I would not expect a problem.
I use an original 11AC alternator and an original 4TR alternator control (aka regulator) as the latter is adjustable to fine-tune the rate of charge.
With the later cars you have a voltmeter right in front of you so become as aware of what is going on in the charging system as you are of oil pressure & coolant temp.
