Do you have link to see some regulator
I would go with the low pressure fuel pup first. I can take a picture of what was installed in mine. Which has a built in filter and a pressure gauge on the outlet port. I bought a cheap one like above and I use it for transferring fuel from the scooters at the end of the season and then as a back up I carry in the trunk. You can buy the facet at local Auto ZOne or O Reilly. Napa just has higher prices and the same pumps. I will get that picture later today.
Are you soaking the pistons with Marvels Mystery oil or ATF already?? Don’t forget to remove plugs on first turning of the engine to avoid compression.
A while ago I disconnected some spark plugs and put a few drops of oil on them…but that’s it…!!!..and I started the engine…I hope I haven’t damaged anything…!!
Its is soak…
How much oil did you add and how did it run. Prolly a lot of smoke. Was there chattering of the engine, what condition is the oil? I have cranked over engines without the spark plugs in the past to turn them over.
The one in the boot show it without the ignition on and the other picture with ignition on and 3.5 PSI
Here are pictures of my inexpensive spare pump and the more expensive one with gauge installed in the trunk. The one in the boot has a built in filter in the bottom which I will check here shortly as I am getting a slight hesitation above 4000 RPM. I also have a clear filter under the hood. I do NOT use the factory glass bowl filter as I see that as dangerous in case of a fire. I also do not use the conical filters on each carb. Note the pressure is 3.5 PSI which is perfect without any regulator. Go to https://www.pegasusautoracing.com for a lot of info. no affiliation
I do not remenber how.mucho oil put in there
Does anyone know if this nut should be tight or loose…since I have a gas leak I’m checking some things and I find that this nut is loose…
Checking the gasoline leak I had, I took out the floats and found that one was half full of gasoline (several cracks)… I already changed them with 2 new ones from Moss parts… already installed, they stopped leaking due to the overflow lines… .
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The problem is that the leak (drip) continues below the plenum through a nipple…is there something I should do…??..do I have to remove the plenum…?? or what else is next? thanks…
note:…the drip comes out through just (one) a nipple…
but what did you do to stop the drip???
The cause is always a fuel level too high in the float bowl. If the float is good, then it is the shut-off action. This can be the needle valve being unable to seal, or less common, the needle valve jamming or dragging in the sleeve and friction holding it down a bit. This was the reason some people say to tap the side of the bowl - to free the needle. Gets you underway but doesn’t fix the fault.
In my case, it was a poorly seating float needle valve. Though old, it appeared to be good, but I changed it for another and it solved the problem. Has behaved perfectly for the last six years or so.
You can (and should anyway) check for binding of the needle by removing the cap and letting the float hang, then gently lifting up the float. This does not quite replicate the action with an empty bowl as the float does not go this low, so adjust the drop to match the depth of the bowl.
Petrol is likely to run out of the rear drain tube only due to the engine sloping rearwards, and it is not implying it is from the rear carburettor. To identify which carb, when you see a fresh leak occurring, carefully remove each cap. The culprit should be showing a higher level.
You should always remove the plenum to do any of this work so that you can see what’s going on and to be able to get to everything.
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Good point Peter!. Also check the float bowl lever levels as per the manual. Use can use a drill bit of the correct diameter. You’re getting there! Please have a fire extinguisher at hand and do all fuel work outside of the garage.
Someone else please chime in about the proper placement of the special washers under the banjo bolt that allow breathing of the carb. Take care not to over tighten the caps or they will easily crack and that’s $$$$
Today I will do and carefully review each of the points mentioned.
That is not a nut, it is an adjustment for the starting carb mixture. The proper position of that adjuster is covered in the service manual.
If you remove the dashpots you can look down and see the fuel flowing out of the jet of the offending carb.
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…hi mike…the nipple that is under the front intake (plenum) just below the front carb is the gasoline leak…do you have any idea why there is a leak ahy (drip)…I already checked and changed the floats with new ones and there is no longer a leak (I think so)…but it continues to come out from under the plenum through the front nipple…thank you in advance…I will have to remove the plenum (it looks difficult to remove)
There is only one way for fuel to get to the bottom of that intake plenum and that is by spilling out of the carburetor throats. If you remove 6 slotted screws you can see it for yourself. You could also remove the plenum and see where the fuel comes from.
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Ok …this weekend maybe I will try to remove the plenum…although I noticed that the space to maneuver is very limited…thanks in advance.
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There are two bolts holding the plenum to the carbs. There are two alignment posts for re-assembly. Once you get the bolts out, the rear one is a pain, Maybe others have extremely thin wrenches/spanners for this bolt. With my wrench, I had to take MANY small turns of the bolt as the wrench kept hitting the carb. I would suggest thoroughly cleaning the bolt threads and use anti seize to aid in future work in this area. If you are lucky and have strong fingers you can remove the bolts by hand. Small hands also were an advantage as the beautiful Angela handled the task. Crazy good mechanic she is!
Of course this would be a fun (!) chance to polish up the domes. Do not mix them up as the pistons are worn to the domes. Do as Mike Eck suggests and watch for fuel flow once you take off the 6 screws and look into the bowl. Do not mix up the order of the washers. You may find that the overflow metal tube are attached to the firewall with small folding clamps. Take your time and pictures are VERY important as its easy to forget the order of parts for re-assembly.
