Leaking Carb Even After Needle Valve Replacement

I’ve inherited a 71 E-type that recently started leaking fuel from the carb (Stromberg 175). I’m not familiar with jags and fairly new to wrenching on cars. I posted some time ago about this Gas Leaking from Air Filter and Other Area - #2 by rbeetel and consensus was a stuck needle valve. I took the bowl apart, removed the needle and it was sticking. I’ve replaced it and the gasket but I’m still leaking fuel from the indicated locations in the post. Any other thoughts on what could be causing the issue?

Thanks!

Strombergs are prone to have their floats stick in the open position when filling from completely empty. Take a soft faced hammer and tap the side of the fuel bowl a few times.

When you say leaking, do you mean seriously overflowing? ie. A stuck float?

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Did you check the float… to make sure it, like, floats?

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David, thanks very much. I tapped the bowel with the hammer before and briefly after startup. Fuel is still leaking through those ports heavily. Steady streams.
Paul, I did not check that they floated and took that for granted!


I’d call that not-floating. I can hear some fluid when I shake it so next step to replace those.

Thanks very much, I’d very much like to keep this beautiful machine running as best I can!

Complete noob question for when I install the new ones: the floats are asymmetrical and I believe I have them in the correct orientation. Is this right?

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$50/per, from SNG…:frowning:

I had to replace mine in the Jeep, earlier this summer.

They are indeed asymmetrical (they have a top/bottom) and you have them in correctly.

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I don’t know if SNG sells the same floats as Joe Curto does, but I bought mine from Joe Curto and was/am quite pleased with their performance.

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I’ve ordered the needle valves, gaskets etc from EnglishParts.com. They look like the originals and are $18/per. + $10 shipping.

While you have the carbs off and are fiddling with them you might consider buying a pair of Joe Curto’s adjustable jets for the Strombergs. About $170 for the pair when I bought mine a few years ago, but well worth it, IMO. A snap to install too.

Aha: I went for the stock-style plastic floats, which is why the price difference.

I think Ill order a spare set of the nitrophyl ones for backups.

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Thanks very much for the suggestion!
On a side note, I enjoyed some Johnny Walker just this evening!

Hi,

That’s the easy test for all floats. If you shake them and there’s anything inside sloshing they are gone. Same for all plastic and brass floats. A float that jas just started to fail would give you too high fuel level and uneven partly too rich idle with SU’s and would also with Z-S’s result in flooding a carb. Not good.

Cheers!

Not sure it is a common problem but one pontoon on the first nitrophyl one I bought was loose on the metal piece and could pivot a little and drag against the brass plug. They are better than the hollow plastic ones but might be something to check for before re-installing the float bowl.

David
68 E-type FHC

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