Keep in mind that the electronic flasher relay may be designed for chassis negative, i.e. it can only control the current flow in single direction.
Usually a “bulb” is fed with +12v then the other end is shorted to negative (aka ground, by MOSFET transistor, not contacts) to turn it on.
In other words it may not be wiring schema flexible.
Hello Lovethamarkix - just a suggestion - when troubleshooting my problem of turn signal dash indicator not working, I also purchased a new flasher relay thinking the existing relay was bad - same problem when replaced relay - then as I was moving the relay socket, my turn signal indicator worked - put back in the old relay and, while moving the socket, the turn signal indicator worked - checked wire ends on the socket for corroded and loose connections, cleaned socket jack slots, verified solid connections between the curled ends of the socket terminals and the flat blades of the flasher relay, and all worked correctly with the old relay - as Dean W. mentioned it is the amps (current) flow that may be the problem - hope this helps - Tex Terry, II - 1991 XJS V12 Classic Coupe, 1986 XJS V12 Coupe - sent 12/14/2020 1446hrs. EST USA.
Markix,
A long while back, I did a survey of flashers for my XJ6 LED conversion. Most flashers with a pilot output drive it using a transistor output. The transistor output might be good for 500mA (6W). Your use of a load resistor on the pilot output may have damaged it.
Old electrical stuff can be fragile and have more than one problem. It’s worthwhile having someone experienced in electrical troubleshooting go through the entire circuit.
Ron
By this stage my next test would be to plug in the original relay (which you havent thrown away yet), re-install the incandescent lights, and see if it works.
If it does, that rules out various issues
If you are still determined to install LED flashers, at least you know the problem is only within the LED system, not the cars wiring
What relay did you end up using, Terry?
I was just about to do that. Thanks for the suggestion Ron!!!
Tony,
The LEDs in my brake tail and reverse lamps are at least twice as bright as the originas. I would never go back to incandescent bulbs on these. Getting the right flasher or putting in resistance is well worth the effort
Hello Lovethamarkix - I ended up with the original relay in the car - I did switch between old and new relay five times (yes, wanting to make sure problem gone) to verify that any movement of the relay socket did not affect the circuit after my clean-up repair and adjustment - I was satisfied that all was working correctly with the original relay - the new relay is on the shelf now - if you are wanting the make and part number of the relay, I can get that for you - don’t know if it will apply to your car as this is on my 1991 XJS (I did check and it is the same relay on my 1986 XJS) - one last thing is that I do NOT have LED installed, just the regular bulbs - I know you are troubleshooting a problem with the “weak regular bulb” and the “not working LED”, but I just figured that my suggestion may be of help during your troubleshooting - at least to get the “weak regular bulb” working first - Tex Terry, II - 1991 XJS V12 Classic Coupe, 1986 XJS V12 Coupe - sent 12/14/2020 1726hrs. EST USA.
The last suggestion was as a fault finding measure
I largely agree on the LED situation, and have fitted them in many situations
Just not indicators, for the reasons I previously stated,
(although I acknowledge they may now be brighter than Incandescents)
Dean- it is not a bayonet but a screw in bulb for the indicator light. We tested today and I am definitely getting 12 V at the socket. I have a friend who is phenomenal with jaguars and knows a lot about the electrical system in the Mark IX. Hopefully someone with a mark nine can let me know what they’ve used and what worked for them… I’ve used just about every flasher relay on the market!
Bob Faster posted this back in April of 2019.
It’s a flasher from AES in the UK. Both he and I have used it in our E types with LEDs and it works fine. One for the turn signals and one for the hazards. Panel lights (indicatores) work fine. No ground required. No load resistor used.
Ordered through the website. Arrived in about 10 days.
Thank you, Larry! Is there anything like that available here in the states?
Someone found something in the States but needed to attach a ground. Can’t remember who or where they found it. Maybe they’ll reply to this.
I have ordered a number of things from the UK now, LEDs, clock repair kit, 123 distributor and the flasher units. All have arrived quickly without problems.
Larry
Thanks for the info, Larry! I normally have no issue with ordering parts from the UK but in this particularly case I’m concerned about it working or not and then having to return it… I was hoping someone on here would have the solution for the product purchased in the states! Thanks again!
The subject of LED conversion keeps coming up. It seems that the J-L FAQ still exists somewhere, but is definitely on the back burner. It would help immensely in threads like this. Under normal circumstances, I would volunteer to contribute or edit such a document, but 2021 is frantic already. I am building a house and moving across country at my advanced age; I can’t take on another project.
As Tony stated, proper troubleshooting technique can greatly simplify the entire process. Regarding turn signal upgrades, the sequence of changes is important for sectionalizing problems. The first thing to upgrade is the flasher itself, leaving all of the incandescent bulbs in place. That needs to be thoroughly tested before moving on to the LEDs. Unfortunately, many people do it exactly backwards. Yeah, this should be a FAQ topic.
Ron
I’ve been on the phone this morning with doug@Super Bright Leds.com. I took his suggestion and hooked up a resistor at the indicator light itself everything works just fine except the indicator light stays on after you turn off the signals! I’m waiting for him to call me back. This just keeps getting better!
I believe the issue of LED conversions has a detailed FAQ/ Topic on a site called the “UK E-type forum”, run by a guy that also posts on here by the name of David something-or -other
If my memory serves me correctly, it is well worth reading, very detailed
The uprated flashers can burn out under the load of the incandescents I believe someone has already stated. Thus, bulbs first, then flasher
Yeah, the “all-electronic” flashers from Hella, Wehrle-Black, and red no-name China are only rated at 30W. The LED-compatible flashers from Novita/Tridon, CEC, Flosser, Wehrle-Green, and Durite have relay output rated at 20A ie > 240W. Those are fine for incandescents as well. Personally, I use Novita/Tridon in my classic cars.
If you’re adept at troubleshooting, you can certainly go through these simple circuits and following the schematic in any order. In my former career, I got involve in tier 3 remote troubleshooting with supposed professional customers, and it turned out much like this: unclear who has done exactly what when. The preferable order would be to change the flasher first. The LED-compatible flash should operate with incandescent bulbs. Problems are easily sectionalized. Using the low-power all-electronic flasher or changing the LED bulbs first may require simultaneous troubleshooting the flasher function, polarity, connectivity, LED bulb, and socket issues.
Ron
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I dont think anyone has mentioned that many LED bulbs are polarity sensitive, connect one backwards and things can get weird