Bring the headers… Ill stickem on my hot rod!
That’s 10 minutes running? Looks like it should be more, or did you drive it like you stole it?
What’s the size of the headers?
Not the big bore, they are wonderful made by Classic Jags supplier, they just werent me…
If your running sport exhaust and all its the best, But my coupe I want quite.
Make an offer if you like in a pm, if not they go on the wall or when I drive to colorado I drop them off to wiggles 
I
Forget what I paid…
Lake Como is coming…New York is GOING…
CIAO
GTJOEY1314
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Wiggle what does 3.0 mean next to the thread?
gtjoey1314
Ok I posted about parts…
Anyone NEED something I might have?
Everything is going to new homes…
I might have a BIG surprise with my buddy G Bartlett…
Last car before I hang it up…It starts with a REAL D!
Now’s the time…
On another note once the center console arrives, Ellie and I are taking a full weekend inthe Yellow ETYPE with bo and travel the twin forks!
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I’m not sure of your logic here.
Everything passes through the gage…If the current is too high it heats up the unit andthen pegs it .
Then as the Platters say…SMOKE GETS IN YOUR EYES…
GTJOEY1314
Maybe by placing a shunt across the ammeter terminals, that reduces the amps through the gauge, so when the LED lamps are installed, the amp draw appears even lower than what it actually has become? 
Tom
Perhaps but the theory was once you go from 35 amp alternator to 115 or so, IF the internal regulator quit , you get a warning on the gage before the car burns down, if the regulator was stuck open and went full blast charge.
So its just another safety factor.
GTJOEY1314
p.s. I play it safe with a series 1 , all of my 1 wire transplants are around 75 amps, not mega 120 .
I wont need it…
GTJOEY1314
Joey, LED issue aside , I can see some logic behind being warned if it were overcharging, but by placing a shunt across the ammeter, that reduces the amount of charge (or discharge) that the ammeter indicates and it seems that would thus give one less warning of an overcharge situation. So now with your shunt, at what point on your gauge would you consider it dangerously overcharging. Without the shunt, one might assume the needle being pinned is overcharging, but what now? Half? Three quarters? Have you scaled it to know?
Tom
If it pegs, you shut the car off. Thankfully it never happened to me.
There were videos back in the day when the conversions first started.
They started with a piece of tin that connected to both posts but due to the back of the dash being metal.
A smarter solution was a very thick insulated wire with insulated eye loops.
gtjoey1314
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I agree with your thinking, Tom, but think the issue is even worse, and I can’t see how such a shunt does anything other than make the ammeter useless.
The resistance of a #10 wire is about 1 ohm per 1000 feet, or about 0.17 milliohms for a 2” shunt. What is the internal resistance of the ammeter? In the UK forum I’ve seen people say it is about 0.4 ohms, or 400 milliohms.
That means about 99.96% of the current is going through the shunt and not the gauge. It’s no wonder the LED headlight draw wasn’t seen on the gauge. The gauge isn’t measuring anything anymore.
Even is the ammeter resistance is off by a factor of 100, that would still make the shunt dominate in the circuit, and the ammeter would be reading less than 1/5 the actual current and it would barely budge.
I’d be interested in our resident electrical wizard @Ray_Livingston’s take on this.
I believe the internal resistance of the ammeter is about the same as a 10 ga wire. Reason I say this is when I got my S1 years ago, the ammeter did not work. When I opened it, the wire/shunt was burned open. I simply soldered in a length of heavy wire. In theory, it seems to me one would want as heavy a wire as possibly, zero ohms in theory. The needle simply was near the wire and moved per the magnetism in the shunt. Per my memory, such as it is.
Tom
So it is actually a galvanometer? I was assuming it operated like ammeters that are actually measuring voltage across a very low resistance internal shunt. I wonder why the folks on the UK forum were quoting a higher resistance.
Jeffrey, that is what I remember, but that was 30 years ago, so I could be wrong. Anyone have an ammeter apart recently?
Tom
Let me tell you
WHY this forum is so important…
I got a call from one of our Canadian friends who is building a replica D Type
He needed a set of headers which I had on the car and they are on the way!
Just helping a fellow jag owner getting close to the dream!
Dino enjoy them!
I might have a couple of gages as well!
Sorry Wigs I had them packed in the coupe but…
Anyone need other parts just pm 
The center console is on the way!
Gtjoey1314
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100%. This forum is a great place!
This issue has been discussed before (hasn’t everything?) on this forum. Back in 2012, Mike Eck said “The Lucas ammeter simply consists of a single loop of wire and a pivoting magnet with a needle attached to it. I have one open on my desk if you would like a picture.–”. So, I take this to mean that the E-Type ammeter is not a sensitive voltmeter across a very low resistance internal shunt, but a galvanometer. What that means in the context of the effectiveness of using an external shunt, and how large it should be, I don’t know, but I bet someone does…
On reflection, it seems to me that putting an external shunt wire across the terminals of the ammeter may protect the ammeter from frying if the uprated alternator decides to output it’s maximum current, but that high current will continue to flow through the two cables that terminate on the ammeter terminals. So, unless those wires are also uprated to handle it, the ammeter may be the only part of the car that is not fried! Do you really want 75+ amps flowing through wires behind the gauge panel? Isn’t the “correct” solution to locate the external shunt remotely at a suitable point in the engine bay, and then attach a pair of leads from the ammeter across the remote external shunt. It still begs the question how large the shunt should be, and that probably depends on the resistance of the pair of wires to the ammeter… However you do it, the sensitivity of the ammeter is going to be greatly reduced along with its utility. Maybe time to switch to a voltmeter…?