Hi, all
Time to repair my Diff. But, since mine is non-LSD even though it’s a Daimler (only for South Korea.)
I think it’s better to find a refurbed Diff with LSD and exchange it!
But it is hard to find good one with good price and shipping to here will be another challenge…
anyone can source me a good one?
The 1990 to 1997 3.58:1 HU15 will all fit. The only difference are a few bolts or studs that can be swapped or replaced.
The X300 sedan has different bolts to hold the pinion ‘snout’ plate and the output shafts have different fastener heads but all can be swapped back and forth.
If you have the earlier diff with the 'U’Joint flange, then that is a different story.
I can’t tell what mystery car you have.
bob
Bob, he’s got a 1990 4.0 Daimler. Click on his user name or the picture next to it on the left side.
I should have listed my spec!!
Mine is 3.58 non LSD. Jurid.
Mine has bad pinion bearing. Noise is from diff at decelation(throttle off). It it not too bad though. Most people can’t recognise the noise if not told.
The chance is a just Loosen Pinion Bearing Preload.
is there easy way to just fix this?
It is really hard to locate any parts of xj40 here in South Korea…
I may just need to rebuild the diff when the time comes…
I hope it lasts longer as out of budge for rebuilding at the moment.
Do a search in the XJ40 / Modern archives. There are many (sometimes ‘heated’!) posts on the subject of “pinion bearing pre-load”
Here is one of my posts as a sample -
Are you sure it’s diff noise, check Universal joints.
4 Joints on Half shafts. They are new!!
Are you sure it’s diff noise, check Universal joints.
Swallow …
I had, I believe, the same problem on my '89 XJ40. Differential sounded fine until around 50 mph when I let off the gas I heard a soft whining sound, after a while it drove me crazy. I was all ready to buy a rebuilt diff when I stumbled onto a detailed article on line by a gentleman with the same problem he had with his XJ-S and how he solved it.
I won’t go into all the details but it essential involve removing the driveshaft and tightening the bolt going into the differential 1/8th of a turn. Since I was ready to replace the differential I said “what’s to lose”… I did it and it worked perfectly. this was about 6 or 7 years ago and still quite as a mouse.
If you’re interested let me know an I’ll try to track down the article. This gent really did his homework and must have been an engineer because of all the pictures and diagrams he included.
Omg!
Just simply tightening the pinion bolt a bit fixed the whole noise??
That is a quiet great try before rebuilding the whole diff!!
Please guide me to the article !
Alright, it a took while but I found the article. As you can see this guy really did his homework. It was so long ago I don’t remember all the details but I do remember that bolt is SERIOUSLY tight. You really need to get the car on a lift so you have the room to use a long cheater bar to get any movement on it.
I remember having someone on the forum tell me expertly how this wouldn’t work …but it did and stopped the noise and it’s been absolutely fine after many years. I’m sure I posted something about it so let me see if I can find that.
Thanks a lot!!!
I looks like he did a lot of homework, yeah.
I have to study this article and see what happens!
I will come back with an update!
Best of luck.
To tell you the truth I really didn’t have much hope that it would work, but was very pleasantly surprised when it did. You just never know.
That link is just going to a photo? No article attached?
When the photo loads, just click “visit page” and you’ll be on the guys site and get the whole guff
Thanks Larry, iPad didn’t initially show the ‘visit page’ butto.
Good article BUT 1/8” is 3mm not 6mm a fairly important mistake to make there!
I can understand most of parts.
But, I am just a bit confused of his scale trick…
could you explain it more easily?
There’s a crush sleeve at the pinion bearing that’s also called differential shaft bearing retainer. It’s installed when they assembled the differential. As the nut gets tightened this crush sleeve start to collapse a little bit. Over time the bearing wears out and it get looser a bit. That’s when you hear a whine. So by tightening the nut a little bit more the crush sleeve collapse more, keeping the bearing tight enough so no more whine. There’s a certain torque the pinion bearing needs and the crush sleeve’s jot to achieve it and hold it.
I don’t know what the jot 
of that sleeve is but it’s got a job.
Robin …
EXCELLENT CATCH !
1/8" is indeed a little over 3mm not 6. As many times as I read this article before I tightened my pinon bolt I didn’t pick up on that, but then I’m not a metric kind of guy.
It’s even more surprising because this fellow is obviously very meticulous and did his homework.
Swallow_che … If you decide to try this I can’t stress enough just how tight this bolt is. You definitely need to have the car on a lift to give you enough room to use a long cheater bar. Something like this 
…
I figured out how to tighten it.
But, i just cannot find out “how much” i should turn the nut.
Like he used the scale to measure how much.
