So we have no starter issue. See great news now get a new battery anyway you burnt up the old one😃
Gerard, I have found these things to be one of the great scams foisted on our kind. One day I might just design a proper one. Bad ones drop a lot of volts and reduce current - just what you don’t want. Paul.
My charger has the following amperage settings. 2, 20, 40 and a massive 250 amps for starting purposes. This is on a 110 a/c volt circuit reduced down to DC current. I have never heard of burning up a battery on a short use of only 40 amps. I do know that the alternator can put out about 14.2 volts. Volts and amps are of course way different.
When I finally did get it started today, the “Volt” meter on the dash jumped to 15 in an effort to replenish the battery. I will stop by the auto parts store and have them do a test and probably remove that green bolt shut off switch on the negative terminal.
Gerard
If your using a conventional battery Acid with plates high shocks or boosts like your doing will collapse the plates and burn up the acid it’s boiling the insides
For your health 2 amp and sometimes 10 amp max . I’ve seen worse back in the day with Vent cap batteries with the old Sears chargers.
The vapors like gasoline can become highly explosive
Now if your using a optima battery and your zapping it like that the battery will implode within days internally
Optima 2 amp max , old fashion battery 10 max
Your cut off switch like others have said, look at my rebuild I only use Moroso or equal heavy duty kil switch , the little turning knob ones from China are junk and short ,in a pinch can be fine but as the plastic insulator breaks inside from turning the knob they tend to short out
Good luck …
Gtjoey1314
Well, it was about 40* today, and on first hit of the key the starter turned but too cold for the engine to start. After the first turn, just clicking. Stuck the battery on a charger for a few hours and then again it turned first try and started right up. After a drive and warm up, turned it off and tried the starter again, and started right up. So I guess it is the battery after all! Maybe sitting for over a week in freezing cold drains it just enough to try to start but too weak to keep spinning the motor.
Go get a wonderful red top optima or a traditional interstate
Never use that charger on the optima
Only use the 2amp on the acid
Emergency 10 amp
You melted the plates and or goop depending the battery
Every 4 years they are junk
Some last a bit longer but the old Sears diehard days are long gone
Good luck
Gtjoey1314
I budget for a reasonable quality new battery every 3 years in all vehicles that I rely upon, and keep the old ones for my “spare” runners, and usually get about 2 more years out of them
It must be the altitude…
With standard lead acid batteries, I get a minimum of 5 years from them, and ofttimes 6-8 years.
You could but if your really driving your on the edge
For a show car on weekends you can get more they just seem to implode a lot sooner
IMHO
Gtjoey1314
I got this battery roughly 1 year ago when I moved it to the trunk. It’s a Pep Boys regular, but it’s significantly larger than stock since it’s in the trunk. Have never had an issue with it until it got cold here! And by charger I mean a small tender / trickle charger. Hopefully it’s not fried it’s not very old!
Pep Boys should offer a full exchange and not the old prorated deal. Have them perform a battery analysis check during starting and while running.
p.s. Open a commercial account with any of the Big auto parts retailers and you’ll see just how much those places mark up product!
Gerard
Gerard
Kag man is correct but…
What’s the date on the battery
Please your burning up your battery with 40 amp chargers
Just don’t want it going boom when your around
Gtjoey1314
Honest question about the charging, not sure I understand the complaint about charging the battery. My battery tender says 12V @ 750mA. Isn’t the whole idea of these things that it’s a low / slow charge? Also the alternator is like 60 amps how is that different from having a more powerful charger?
My alternator notes 85 amps at full spin. So, I’ll be following this thread also.
Gerard
By todays standards with sealed acid batteries or Optima batteries/goop, 1 amp to 3amp is it…
You can boost with a 10 , 20 or so on, but if you keep doing it you are burning up the plates and fluids in the battery.
Just buy a new battery every 4 years or so and you will be fine.
Hi amp charge a optima and you will be sorry fast.
Good luck…
GTJOEY1314
An alternator can produce UP TO that number max, but is controlled by a regulator. Your charge is going HOT straight to the battery, a big difference.
Footnote, let me make this understandable to a non wrenching middle age guy…
You take VIAGRA , its a quick boost 
right!
Do it again…then again, as the old man keeps getting the jump, his risk of a heart attack, increase 10 fold…BOOM.
Make sense now?
Right, I mean that makes sense but I’m using a trickle charger at 750mA so reliably under 1 amp. Turns out that wasn’t the issue anyway. Let the battery charge for a day and it was still dead dead dead. Turns out there’s a now a short in the headlight circuit. Never had an issue with the lights in 10 years and now it’s got a BAD short (the test light is BRIGHT between the (-) and the ground cable). Pulled the fuse and short is gone, so had pep boys replace the battery (it was only 10 months old). Now another issue to chase…
Theo your okay with your BATTERY TENDER, Im posting in regard to the booster old fashion charger from the original poster…
Your TRICKLE charger is basically harmless, if your battery is too far gone the green light will never come on. On the other hand it will never over charge either.I only use trickle chargers , unlessan emergency.
Make sense…
GTJOEY1314