Hi Guys,
Sorry if this question’s been asked before, but I can no longer find the ‘search forums’ tab.
Thing is, Mr Haynes would have us remove the carbs, distributor and exhaust manifold prior to lifting. Is this really necessary ? As far as i can see they all ought to come out with the engine, having just split off the downpipes.
Anyone done this with everything still on board ?
Thanks,
Anthony
I’ve never needed to lift an engine, I always drop them out the bottom. It appears that I removed the carburetors the last time I did it. Search the old Saloon photo album for “removing MK2 engine bottom”.
http://www.jag-lovers.org/snaps/snap_searcher.php
Apropos the above, the main reason for removing the engine is to get the sump off to get at and clean the rear crankshaft oil thrower (earlier engine without the rope seal), plus to have the front end alloy castings off for a good clean, polish and reseal to stop existing leaks. Ditto the carbs and cam covers.
As I don’t really need to get to the engine internals, although I might check stuff over if I do get the motor out, it might be easier / preferable to drop the front suspension to remove the sump, and do everything else in situ.
Any thoughts, guys ?
Thanks, Mike. Well, I can imagine that you would have to remove the carbs in those circs., as the carbs probably wouldn’t go through the aperture.
I was just thinking about you today whilst driving the E Type, in that the clocks in both the E Type and Mk 2 are still performing accurately several years down the line !
Best,
Anthony
If you don’t need to remove the crank then there is no reason to remove the
engine to do the work. You can change the bearings, remove the pistons,
hone the cylinders, do head work, replace timing chains, etc. while leaving
the engine block in place. In my opinion it’s easier that way.
Mike Eck
New Jersey, USA
www.jaguarclock.com
'51 XK120 OTS, '62 3.8 MK2 MOD, '72 SIII E-Type 2+2
Indeed! Did both chains, bottom tensioner over the weekend. Sump back in today. Paul
Thanks Paul, beginning to think it’s best to leave the engine in !
Presumably you had to drop the front suspension, though - was this difficult ?
Agree with Mike, drop the engine from the bottom. Last fall we dropped the engine with all manifolds intact however the carbs must be removed.
George
Cincinnati OH
Thanks, George - as I imagined. Although I’ve more or less decided to leave it in situ now, as Mike says it will be far less work and I haven’t got that much to do, really. Getting the front subframe off will be the worst aspect, so I’ll do that first.
Anthony
Conceptually it’s very easy to take off the front subframe, and since I
lubed all the bolts when I installed it the last time it might take me all
of 45 minutes to remove it. Use a trolley jack to lift the front of the car
under the center of the subframe and remove the wheels. Remove the bolt
from the steering joint, undo the brake lines, remove 4 bolts at the front,
4 bolts at the sway bar and two bolts at the rear. Lower the jack to the
floor and then use 2 jacks to lift the body off the subframe, making sure
the steering joint comes apart as you do.
Mike Eck
New Jersey, USA
www.jaguarclock.com
'51 XK120 OTS, '62 3.8 MK2 MOD, '72 SIII E-Type 2+2
Hi Anthony, yes I did drop the front suspension. Two points right at the front of the subframe and also two at the rear. You must let the steering column shaft part away as well, of course. I used my floor jack under the cross member and as I was not sure of the “balance point” on the subframe I stepped it down by removing (earlier set) wooden blocks under the springs. Also have to let the brake flexibles separate to get enough clearance to pull the sump. All back in now, just have to bleed the brakes. Paul
Thanks again, Mike and Paul, for the very useful info.
I don’t know that my subframe’s ever been off, so expect its removal to take more than 45 mins ! However, the other bits have all been off within living memory, so should be ok. Meanwhile better get out the chainsaw and cut up a lot of wooden blocks…
Anthony
I dont know whether its applicable to MK2, but on Jags & other vehicles I just unbolt the calipers,
leaving hoses attached, wire them up out of the way, and no need to bleed brakes
In anticipation of this job may I recommend you liberally spray your choice of rust penetrant on every single nut and bolt to give you a head start. There always is that one “Bolt Buster” tool that I dream about but that is real money.
Gerard with no affiliation to http://www.boltbusterinc.com/
Be sure to chock the rear wheels really well before you tilt the car and put the axle stands under the chassis rails at the front. Set the hand brake once it’s up. Better safe than sorry.
Soaking all the fasteners with penetrating oil a week in advance, then once again the day before seems to make a difference.
Hi Tony, can do that - I took the opportunity to change my hoses. They were the early yellow stripe ones and looked pretty tired (a bit like yours truly). Also replaced both steering universals. Had the car out today after bleeding the brakes just ready for a 250km return trip tomorrow and Friday. Paul
Thanks again, everyone. Useful tip about the penetrating oil and chocking the rear wheels, Andrew. And yes, Paul, I’ve just ordered a new hose set as well and hopefully all the gaskets I’ll need. And checked that I have some metal polish and buffers, thought I’d have a go at the cam covers and carbs whilst I’m at it !
Hadn’t thought about the steering UJs, but perhaps should. I remember when I’d just started work after leaving school, a local solicitor (lawyer to colonials!) was making a right turn in the middle of town in his 3.8, when the wheel started spinning in his hands and the car was going straight on ! Fortunately no harm done as he was barely moving, a few of us onlookers pushed the car to the side, but it was only about 5 years old then.
That happened to me in the early '70’s when the rubber coupling that spends
its life next to the exhaust manifolds fell apart, except I was on a
mountain road with a rock face to the right and a drop-off to the left.
Luckily my brakes were in fine shape. My current car has the later system
with a CV joint and no rubber coupling. There’s no problem with the
U-Joints, it’s the rubber that goes bad.
Mike Eck
New Jersey, USA
www.jaguarclock.com
'51 XK120 OTS, '62 3.8 MK2 MOD, '72 SIII E-Type 2+2
Hadn’t thought about the steering UJs, but perhaps should. I remember when
I’d just started work after leaving school, a local solicitor (lawyer to
colonials!) was making a right turn in the middle of town in his 3.8, when
the wheel started spinning in his hands and the car was going straight on !
Fortunately no harm done as he was barely moving, a few of us onlookers
pushed the car to the side, but it was only about 5 years old then.
There are two types of upper univeral joint: a rubber “plus sign” variety (easy); and a contraption involving nylon spheres (more complex). The lower one is a smaller propellor shaft variety. I have the sphere variety that was considerably worn. Changing this made enormous difference to steering - much lighter! If you have this one be aware that the spheres might need some reduction to fit inside the housing, I did this by running them on a lathe and paring them down with emery cloth. See which variety you have and let me know if you need any more. Paul