I’ve recently realized that the front trim valance (the part below the front bumper) on my Mk10 is missing. Upon viewing a very nice Mk10 today owned by a local museum, it also was missing this part. Although not all original, this car is too nice to have had parts just fall off. Both cars are air-conditioned. My theory is that they discarded the lower valances when the ac was added (always a dealer-added option I think) because of the 2-condenser setup. One of the the condensers is long and narrow, situated below the front unibody opening. Has anyone else observed this?
my originally non A/C 420G does have that panel, its very thin metal
It might be helpful to view this sight, if you get no answers here
I have looked at a lot of cars on that site, but will look at more. The problem is that it’s very hard to see that panel in photos.
I would like to obtain one for my car, but might have to make it. If I restore the ac system, it will have only a modern condenser in front of the radiator, ditching the second lower one. The modern condensers are more efficient, so I think I could get away with that.
didnt someone offer up up a fibreglass copy recently ?
having said that, it would be easy enough to make with a wooden template and hand form the flange, I think the metal gauge is thinner than the rest of the vehicle, even aluminium would do.
I did have to spend a bit of time hammering out dents from road rocks it was so thin, and they show up when painted shiny
I think that was a metal copy that was posted. I sent a pm, but never got a response. I can’t find the posting now. Might have been an add on to another thread.
Yes, I can make one, and I have some sheet metal skills and tools including an English wheel. It’s just that there are so many things left to do on the car that I don’t know when I might get to it. I have completed the major tasks, and hope to fire it up in the next couple of weeks.
Ron,
I may have one still on my 63 MKX. It was a non A/C car. If so Id be happy to help with dimensions and a pattern. You probably still have my email.
Yep, Valance is still there. Rust free. Not much of a panel. Ill have to see how much trouble it is to remove it and then photograph it with measurements. Let me know if that would help.
Pictures and dimensions would be lovely. I take it that it’s not for sale or that you are in parts distant? Sorry, I can’t remember what we communicated about.
I appreciate any help you could give.
Oh, I found you. You were asking about brakes and transmissions, and you wanted more photos of the Mk10 refurbishment. I will take a few more and send in the next few days. Lots of progress, but lots left to do.
very easy, just a few screws
No not for sale. It’s currently on a X I plan to restore. I live in Louisiana not sure about your location.
That’s what I thought. I think that some photos would give me what I need to make one, and I could use them to post a wanted ad for a used one while I fix other things. Unless you were going to remove it anyways, I don’t want you to go to the trouble. Does “X” mean it’s on a lift?
I’m in WA state. I do have relatives in Clinton and Ocean Springs, Mississippi and share a condo on the coast with my sister, although I don’t get down there very often in these days of pandemic. What part of Louisiana? I’ve gotten a lot of experience with the 4.2 Mk10 in the past year and am happy to share.
No the"X" refers to it being a MK 10. I pulled it and took a few pics of it, along with a tape measure in various positions. (You have mail) Its a fairly simple panel basically flat with a 1/4" degree bend around the circumference. The reason its not on the cars with A/C it that it would block the air flow to the lower condenser. Im quite surprised it wasnt bent up more than it was. I bet you even still have the original screw holes in your body. If you need a pattern traced out just let me know. The most costly part of it will be buying the full sheet of 20 or 18 gauge sheet metal.
Oh duh, of course the X is Mk10.
This is fantastic - thanks so much. That panel is really flat.
If a tracing isn’t too much trouble, I would love to have it. I’m happy to reimburse for all expenses.
We can do details with PM if you like.
Here are a couple of photos from my ongoing refurbishment of my mk10 related to transmission conversion, which I know you are interested in. When the car is proven on the road, I’ll post something under it’s own title.
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Ron,
How do you plan to compensate for the loss of the rear engine stabilizer?
Have you fabricated the valance panel yet?
Good question, and I wondered about that, too. I talked to John about it, and he indicated that it is not necessary. Keep in mind that the 700r4 transmission mount is different, not the spring arrangement that Jaguar used. The rear transmission mount is pretty rigid.
That said, I did fire up the new engine and burned in the cams, started seating the rings, but stopped because I needed richer SU needles - leaning out pretty badly on wot. Plus a couple oil leaks, and an issue with the driveline that makes me think about the absent rear stabilizer. With this conversion, the front U-joint is larger and falls at the most narrow part of the transmission tunnel, rather inconvenient. On WOT, I got some banging. I’ve re-centered the driveline by shimming the rear mount and I think that will take care of it, but I have to get the car out again to see. If the re-centering doesn’t correct the problem, I will replace the mount with a urethane one and try again.
I have the new needles, but the weather here has been pure nonsense, snowing at the moment. Hope to see about it in a few days. I do intend to fully report on the upgrade when I get it fully sorted. The transmission is nice, and the new engine looks like it will be my best build so far - very smooth.
And, no, I haven’t had a chance to think about making the valance. I believe it will be not hard. BTW, do you have any idea what the larger hole on each side is for? Maybe wires if there are fog lights? Thanks again for the beautiful pattern. Happy Holidays!
To my knowledge, the only factory fitment of a GM automatic gearbox (Turbo 400) against an XK engine was in the Daimler DS420 limousine. Not sure if they used a bespoke gearbox case or an adapter plate in those cars or what they did about the rear stabilizer.
I’ve never thought the rear mount did anything but help with movement when the engine torqued a bit with acceleration / deceleration. If your rear mount is fairly substantial it probably won’t matter much. Should be interesting in any event to see how much it does move.
A hydraulic shock may well be a better alternative. They make very small ones and wouldn’t transmit hardly any vibration.
If you check the manual (and in practice), it is quite important in setting the correct height/angle of the engine to its correct initial position on installation