MK10 now drivable - update

After several months of work and pretty big investment in new parts, the Mk10 is back on the road, and I’m posting a few photos and details for those who helped with good advice.
The cooling system is complete with recored modern high efficiency brass radiator along with a custom built aluminum header tank, new hoses and overflow tank. The original steel routing pipe was replaced with copper and formed rubber hoses. The new heater vacuum valve worked until the heater core blew. The box is going to need major rust repair. :pensive: Currently on heater bypass, drivable.

The braking system is overhauled with rebuilt calipers including new pistons all around and new rotors. The obsolete master and booster have been replaced with XJ parts. While I used a series 2 booster in a series 1 can, I recommend sticking with all series 1 parts for any others doing this upgrade, as there was a need for shimming of the mc away from the booster to cure dragging brakes. These are the same brakes as the 420G and I have to say that they are great! I also replaced the missing emergency brake parts and the e-brake is as good as new (fwiw). That’s a salvage reservoir that fits under the bonnet better than the originals, and there are 2lb residual pressure valves in the front and rear lines.

I restored and rebuilt the irs, which was moribund. Shocks were bad and were replaced with adjustable GAZ units. In case anyone else uses these, I have them set on maximum (turn the dial all the way towards the minus sign - go figure) and they see to work very well. Be aware that they come with their own retaining collars and do not use the original shock retaining collets.

A great many other things happened like tuning carburetors, replacing the power steering pump, belts, vacuum and water hoses, correcting electrical faults, driveline bushings, front suspension repair, new suspension boots, speedometer cable, replacement tachometer drive, battery, and a hundred other things. I previously detailed the complete refurbishment of the fuel system including the pumps, senders, and tanks which were in very poor condition.

For now, the transmission is working, not leaking at the moment, but not confidence inspiring. Yet to be done is transmission adjustment, tire replacement, exhaust manifold and gasket refurbishment, completion of paint detailing, front and rear windscreen rubber, door window rubber and electric window repair, air conditioner repair, carpet replacement, and wood refinishing. Should be done by…
Thanks in advance for the advice I know I will need to finish.


Well done!
I have several of these, and love them. Did you enjoy the first drive?
How is the interior? That is important to the overall experience. What is the problem with the electric window regulators?
Good tires are important, low end of pressure range for town driving, and higher for the freeways. I use 1,85kg vs 2,2kg.
Interior pictures please.

did your BW8 experience kickdown on application of WOT ?

First drive without impending breakdown was lovely. The tires are old and vibrate, but the car handles reasonably well, and the redone irs, front suspension, and brakes feel great. Steering floats a bit, What size tires are you running on your cars?
The interior is fair. The seats look nice, but I was disappointed to find that they had been redone in vinyl. They are good for now. Carpet is non-original and bad, likewise moquette. Headliner bad around rear window, but passable otherwise except rust stains by the visors (left visor missing). Wood intact, some areas needing veneer re-gluing and modest patching, light refinishing which I will do with hand rubbed hardening oil and paste wax. I don’t care for the hard gloss finishes, and they are not original.
One electric motor smoked after assisted raising of the driver’s window. Still have to troubleshoot, as the overload switch should have stopped that. I think there is not much point to work on it until I have replacement rubbers for the window tracks which are dragging the glass. Need new door cards, but will wait to see if the electric windows are going to work out.

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Still no kickdown. Haven’t yet done the pressure testing you recommended, but have the service manual information, and will do so if the tranny continues to hang in there. Don’t know if that will help - apparently didn’t on yours. Linkage needs to be adjusted also and is sloppy. Park and R are fine, only one D range (no effect of placing in D2 or L), but shift points are ok.

I took this one out today, in southern Sweden. Minus 5 deg C and dry roads. First time in 2 months which is a long break with my standards.
I like the blue interior! There are seal kits on Ebay for the Marles Varamatic steering box. That will stop them from leaking.

Beautiful work Ron. I see now that old saloon went to the perfect person.

Congratulations on the milestone. It helps the motivation to keep working on her when you get to actually be in it than under it.


That is really very lovely, Peder. Thank you for sharing the photo. How many do you have? I’ve seen a photo of a green one before, I think.
No PS leaks at this time, although I’m almost afraid to say it. Watching the transmission for recurrences.

I agree. It’s been my experience that just when you think that you will never stop finding faults, the car starts to come together.

Also, I very much like the Euro parking and tail lamps, have them on my Mk2 already. I’m missing one front lens, and then will have a full set to put on the Mk10.

It took me a number of years to locate a vizor panel, with vizors and 2 x special walnut on 3-ply that go above the windscreen…do you have them ?..sun takes its toll ! (in Oz), moisture as well

I had a set that was smoked as old newspaper, and even the set I acquired need complex repair. I did a vizor writeup somewhere

I would warrant some PPO :smiley: has decided bypassing the window cutout switch was a suitable way to deal with it “cutting out”, which is apparently an issue