The manual states the correct pressures for RPM, and do a stall test etc.
No usual need to change filters in these as they are just wire screens
So, does one need to run the gauge into the cabin to check pressures while driving?
Either way, yes, but you can do it on the lift. I took a fitting and added fuel hose, then routed it through the window carefully, then decided I don’t need it the next time.
But isn’t pressure taken in gear(s) at idle and then a certain rpm?
That is at 1250 rpm, engine warm, 5.01± 0.175 kg/cm2 = (72.5 ± 2.5
lb/in2) in D1. One turn is 0.63 kg/cm2 (9 lb/in2).
And then shift points?
Good to know that the pressure take off is at the back, I thought it was and if the manuals say differently I now know that I‘m alright and they changed it.
I ordered 2 metres of hydraulic hose so i could run it up to the DS mirror, but ended up putting it inside the cabin, and ran about like that for a while.
Just make sure the hose never comes in contact with the exhaust !
2 possible locations for the male port plug
Got a better drive today, but still limited by a miss under load which I will have to troubleshoot. I have three speeds on the BW8, all actuated in any selector position past neutral including L. Tony, no kickdown. Shift points are low. I have no tach and no speedo, so I’m just guessing at speeds, but I’m guessing 5-10 and at around 20. My transmission leak recurred during a long warmup idle, but went away again after driving. This beastie is going to need a lot of sorting.
sometimes the rod on td250 gets bent ? around the cables etc on bw8?
20yrs on, I am still “sorting” lol…buts its only ever off the road to rebuild things you would expect on a 50yr old vehicle, never more than a few months.
So the BW8 is only controlled by that cable, which is directly linked to throttle, thence to the main valve in the valve body
so pressing the pedal down harder should give change up at much higher speeds
see FSM…it is quite detailed…shift points are low with low throttle
control over the BW8 is very primitive
If you are able to establish the pressure is correct at 1200rpm and at stall, which is about 210psi I think, then that is all you can do.
I would change the fluid if it is suspect
I use Penrite semi-synthetic in all my trans, backwards compatible with the older fluids
I’ll have to sort the miss (mess?), and then get back on the transmission assessment when I can do wot. Another problem is that the emergency brake is missing. That is, there are no parking brake parts attached to the rear calipers and the cable is cut short at the engine bay. I don’t trust the parking pawl that much, so I’ll have to figure how to read a gauge from the driver’s seat or find a trustworthy accomplice. I think I have the parts in my stash except for the chassis guide on the left rear frame-rail. Finding the time to R&R the rear suspension is a problem.
Contact this guy in Virginia for all of your Big Jaguar parts, he is fair and knowledgeable. Jack at Jagnuts
540-743-4037 in Luray Virginia. He says he has one of the biggest assortments of MK10 and 420 g Parts in the USA.
Gerard
Indeed…this is where shipwrights disease sets in…
I can tell you know what you are doing
In my case the rear calipers pistons had given up working, its surprising how well they stop on just the fronts, once in there, you need to do diff output & pinion seals, just about everything really
I always advise owners of these cars to be sure the master brake cylinder seals are not suspect, its the most important part to have perfect
Jack in Luray Virginia is one of the most honest guys I have met in my 35 years dealing with Jaguars. I met him 18 years ago while restoring my MK2. GLAD he is doing good!
Richard
I get a lot of great information here. Thanks guys - I really appreciate it. I think I’ve bought something from Jack before, but it’s good to be reminded.
As for the brake master, it looks like General Motors to me, grafted onto the Jag booster - I didn’t know that was possible. I’ll post a photo tomorrow under a new thread. The brakes are not too bad when the booster works, but it’s intermittent. I suspect I’ll be having it all out sometime in the not-too-distant future, but right now I’m catching up on end of summer things that I’ve neglected while messing with the car over the last week.
Ron
Tony, Getting back to you on the transmission. I did sort out the engine misfire, and am posting a photo of the unusual plugs that I replaced - Accuspark. All sooty, but not oily. Engine is now running great on standard Champions, very smooth, lots of power, very good oil pressure, and smoking almost resolved. I took it for a spin this afternoon, and the transmission shifts fine, but no kick-down. Can’t tell you exactly what speeds, as tach and speedo don’t work, but they seem good. The kickdown is a problem that will have to wait until other issues are resolved. The transmission leak has come and gone - not confident it is resolved, so will just have to watch it.
I’ve got more coolant leaks, and need to get in a new set of hoses. The radiator has a number of tubes blocked, but the engine still cools well (when full of coolant!) - photo… I might have to recore or replace it eventually - can’t imagine what that will cost. I’ll post about the brakes on the other thread.
