Using your analogy of the see saw if you feel that raising the forward mounting will change things then lowering it will do something as well. Perhaps we need someone that has done this one way or the other.
Itâs not rocket science Robin .
The red is the body , spring mounting point and body line .
Blue is the spacers you would use , other end can only go up , taking the wheel closer to the body !
Ok not rocket science but from what I am seeing in the parts picture is that the anchor point for the front of the spring is below the spring eye?
Happy to be wrong but I canât see how your drawing is going to be accomplished?
Guess whoâs car left the Factory with a sunroof, wire wheels and a Derrington steering wheel? 
I donât have the heart to tell my MK2 that sheâs not a sports car! 
Sheâs sulking at the moment anyway, not being able to take her out for a drive. 
Sheâs only prepared to show a little leg (wheel). 
Cheers,
Tim
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Well I made the Towing eye yesterday , just had a trial fit , all ok , just need to round some edges off , then coat of paint !
Only one down side , ok to be Towed in a straight line , but going around corners , number plate must be removed , but will be ok to be Towed onto a recovery Truck !
With reference to the post about the diff cover hitting the fuel tank Jaguar issued a service bulletin number 219 in July 1957. The mod was to remove the diff cover plate and flatten a section adjacent to the crown wheel so the dimension from the mounting flange to the flattened area was 70mm. I have done this mod on my car as the diff cover was hitting the fuel tank. Rear suspension is original except for new shocks.
David Bruce Australia.
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And in inverted type, âIf you can read this please turn overâ
That was on the rocker panels of my Datsun racer⌠upside down, natch!
I test drove my car with EDIS this weekend and all the stories are true. It really runs amazingly well. Between that and my o2 sensors dialing in the mixture, I donât really feel even EFI would be much better.
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I would reduce the 2" exhaust to 1.75 as Jaguar did with the 150.
Amazing, isnât it?
I went from a well-setup Mallory Unilite and the difference was astonishing!
Dizzys suck!
I never found that the Mallory Unitlite was any better than the original dizzyâŚ
I did: The dizzy itself wasnât worn, like the standard Lucasâ usually are: I installed a fair few of them in various engines, over the years, and they always ran better than a points and condenser dizzy, plusâŚthey needed no periodic adjustment.
However, when I swapped out for the EDIS, I was unprepared on how much better it was, over the Unilite.
Iâm sold!
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mallory was very good and crane was much better and more reliable imho
I too am appreciating my EDIS in a 3.4L Mk2.
I agree with the positive sentiments already expressed.
One amusing thing is that after a cold start-up, when the enrichment device switches off, the engine speed drops to about 300 RPM and continues to run absolutely steadily. As the engine warms up the speed rises and I have it settled at 500 RPM when at normal temperature.
I think this demonstrates the very accurate timing of the EDIS and the idling is just so impressively smooth.
Prior to the EDIS I used a switch in the choke circuit to keep the engine running reliably until it had reached normal temperature of 70C. Not any more!
Bruce
Just a few comments that might be helpful or interesting, and a question.
When I bought my 250 just over a year ago it was noticeably down at the rear. I mentioned this to the guy who was showing it to me and he just shrugged.
So when I got it home I bought some new pads for the front end of the rear spring and, after having to drill out the bolts that held the bracket on, I fitted them and although, because the new pad material was much softer than the original pad material I only gained about 5mm, the back came up a useful amount.
So if you move the front end of the spring up the axle will go down and the car will come up. The opposite is obviously true; if you shorten the pad the front of the spring will move away from the body, the axle will go up and the rear of the car will go down.
If you pack the rear mounting point between the car body and the spring the centre of the spring will go down, so will the axle and the body will come up. Putting packing between the spring & itâs mounting bracket will achieve nothing.
So you canât lower the car by messing with this mounting point unless you can make the packing between the spring & the body thinner - I donât know about this as I didnât need to look at this to get the result I wanted.
I havenât quite solved my problem though. Everyone agreed that the rear was down when I bought it, and it still looks a bit low, but if you measure the distance between the bottom of the sill and the ground it is 1cm more at the back than it is at the front. Assuming it should be the same front & rear that means that the rear is actually too high (I have measured the height of the front and it agrees with a measurement posted on this forum previously so I guess it is right, even though it looks too high). So I donât want to raise the rear or lower the front as the car doesnât look too bad even though not quite right, and I donât want the sill to look like itâs sloping down towards the front.
Itâs a mystery - does anyone have any ideas or do I move on to the next job?
The EDIS ignition from megajolt sounds like a good piece of kit. What is involved with fitting it to a mk2 3.8?
Thanks