Yes thats the correct orientation.
next âeasy thingâ
take the bells & pistons off the carbs
look down the carb jets
you must be able to see a meniscus of fuel about 1-2mm from the top (if everything is good)âŚif you cant see any fuel (or its dribbling out), something is amiss
look down the the holes near the ASC, fuel should be visibleâŚis the ASC engaging ?
If the easy things dont work, remove the cam covers and check from scratch, you can normally re-use them if they are new ones
quadruple check the wiring order
if it doesnt at least cough when ether is sprayed, it suggests it isnt fuel related
But what would I be looking at with the covers removed ? If the valve timing is set , which it is . And the cams are on the correct sides which they are , the dizzy can only go in one way , what else apart from the firing order can be wrong . And wouldnât a rotating engine , even with no leads attached , draw fuel in ? Chime in anyone please , this is driving me nuts .
verification.
how do you know that the camshafts are in correct, the relevant valves closed or open, and that the crank damper timing and dizzy button are all in sync, unless you have photographic evidence
as I said, do the easy things first, if not, imo, you must be systematic
I havent followed your story totally close, but think you describe poor workmanship by someone elseâŚwho is to say it isnt still dogging you ?
it takes about 30mins to pull the cam covers
are you 100% sure the head isnt on with timing 180 degrees out ?
if this is the situation, altering the wiring order by 180* will allow the engine to run perfectly
Hi Ken
If youâre not drawing in fuel, itâs not the ignition system as, even if it turns out to be faulty, it wonât account for there being no fuel in the cylinders.
So what might it be? Valves out of synch with the pistons? A failure in the induction/carburettor system?
Make sure youâre getting vacuum - with the ignition off and maybe the distributor cap removed as well, turn the engine on the starter and put your hand over the air intake - you should feel the vacuum.
If youâre getting vacuum, you should be drawing in fuel. Make sure your ignition is sparking at the right cylinder at the right time then squirt a little petrol or easystart or similar directly into the inlet manifold while cranking the engine - it should at least kick a bit. If it does when youâve introduced the fuel in this way, thereâs something wrong with the carburettors.
Picture shows position of no. 6 at tdc with both arrows aligned . Oh dear , am I seeing it at last ?!!
Not sure what you are saying here, I think you need to take both cam covers off and post a picture.
Itâs on its way . twenty more .
Fiennes performance marked the shafts in and ex , so they marked them wrongly ???
Looks that way, perhaps the guys dyslexic?
Either way those need to be changed over and the clearances set again.
They sent the head back to me this last time with the shafts detached and marked accordingly in and ex , I just put them on like that .
If everything else is set correctly, the position of the front camshafts lobes is incorrect
I suggest you identify the individual camshafts by part number which is stamped on themâŚtrust no one!
At least you are making progress
I noticed also , that the lobes on the respective shafts are of a quite different profile . Does this not identify the relevant shafts ? But new camshafts look identical .
the part number identifies the correct one, if you do not have access to the Parts Manual for MKVII, let me know, and I will look them up. I wouldnt trust the people you have been dealing with to get it right
inlet camshaft c.4489, 4488, 5717
exhaust cam, c.4038, 2237, 5718
the alternatives depend on year
So , Iâve swopped the camshafts over and placed them loosely in position . It seems to me that is how it should be , can someone please confirm . The workshop , did I mention the name , itâs FIENNES , must have changed the rev drive over also because I sure as hell didnât ! Look at the pics please and give me your opinion .
Swapping cams now would force reverting to valve clearence setup !
While the camshafts are out, it might be a good idea to check if the ends of the valve stems have been ground down in order to obtain the necessary valve clearances because the valve seats have been cut too deep into the head.
If they have, this needs addressing, otherwise it will almost certainly lead to more problems further down the line.
Thanks mate , but everything is new , so no problems there .
What about the Part numbers ??
They should be clearly stamped on each shaft, although they are small
There is no other way to tell that I know of
Were the valve seats replaced ?..its common they are too recessed on such an old head.
When I took a MK7 head to an expert, he instantly confirmed my suspicion they were too recessed after looking at the head for just a few seconds