Why’s that a potential source of problems ? Please elaborate, this may be my ‘potential’ case …
I will send the numbers soon , but isn’t it true that only the correct shaft in its correct position will work , as I found out . Only by swopping their positions could I get the lobes on no. 6 to face outwards and thus both valves would be closed . I just picked up the shaft marked ex , which incidentally also had the rev drive attached , as it should be , and put it in . Comments please . Going out now to get the numbers .
As you can see from this pic , there is no way you can get the front cam which is marked ex , to work in that position . That one is marked what looks like 20889-
G the other looks like 20889 - E . And look at the profile of the lobes , so different .
The right hand cam profile is not standard, the inlet is more to the profile I would expect to see.
And yet the engine did run with these cams , seems like eons ago !
Thanks for that Piotr , that is the same number that is on my , what was returned as exhaust , but in reality is the inlet ! I have now changed them over , also returning the rev drive to its proper place , but unfortunately the clearances are now miles out .
If valves were new - maybe swap the shims Intake <> Exhaust on each cylinder. This could get You closer …
Exhaust is way under , but intake , two perfect , and the rest close enough . Going to see what I can do among exhaust shims . No letters on these ! Have to get my math head on . 
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a bit of Googling indicates you have later camshafts fitted, apparently the same as in E-types. I think I have some MK7 camshafts somewhere and may be able to check, but from memory they had the older style part numbers stamped on them (could be wrong though)
Does this mean I can join the E type club ? 
Traitor !
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I only want to infiltrate their inner sanctums Bob . Are you by any chance going to stoneleigh tomorrow ?
Ah! I see! A spy - go for it! 
I did think about it as I need some ‘stuff’ for Mr Daimler but have decided to go to the Classic Car Show in the NEC instead. I don’t need anything important urgently so if I don’t get it there I’ll go to Stoneleigh next year.
I got a lot of shiny bits for the duchess , overiders front and rear , + rear light units .
I went years ago when I had my A35 van and I got loads of stuff too 
You’re brave , fighting your way through all those millions of people at the NEC . We will drive about a mile to one of three of our favourite restaurants overlooking the sea and spend a relaxing few hours eating and imbibing .
I think you are confused about the part numbers. What you stated and photographed is the casting number, not the part number. The part numbers are 4 digits as was posted previously, small and must be carefully looked for. I reiterate what has already been said - your rebuilder is probably incompetent, and you need to start from scratch.
I believe the cam on the left in the photo is worn out and needs to be replaced - never seen one that blunt.
You have no idea what the valve clearances might be or what they might have done to the valves. I’ve had a rebuilder who thought he knew what he was doing grind half the tip off a valve, and put .140 shim in it, said it was ready to go. Sad to say, but I would pull the head and take it to someone else.
If you insist on trying to run it with these cams (in the right places), at least pull and measure the shims before you bolt up the cams. It’s very easy to do - just use a magnet to pull the tappets one at a time, then the shim, and use a micrometer to measure the thickness, chart them. They should all be in a range between .085" and .110" unless custom thicknesses have been installed. Then mount the cams and appropriately secure the chains as you already know how to do. Then you can check all the valve clearances, which you must do. If adjustment is needed, it’s now just a matter of doing the math to order the right ones. I would not try to run this engine again without doing this.
Good luck
On rereading your earlier post, maybe you are already doing the reshimming - yes, a good idea. Still concerned that that cam was judged ok by a shop.
Hi Ron , yes , got the clearances pretty near perfect , and it starts and runs . Tickover is a bit erratic and it pops and bangs a bit when you increase the revs , must be timing yes ? Auto advance works ok .
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