Do you mean those which are located on each of the front and rear bumper bars? If so, they have lead weights in them as well. This is the only photo I have to date before they were restored.
Tim
Hi Tim.
Yes that’s them. Often dented and damaged. I’m in the process of having some trial made to see what they come out like.
I’d like to see how you get on with having them made when they are done? If they are too hard then I might be able to suggest someone who might be able to help.
Tim
It’s fascinating that the Thackery Washer holds the tension of the lead weight and the rest of the pieces. That’s a very helpful photo for me, thank you Polti.
Tim
Mine has lead weights only in the front, not the rear.
They are to dampen out torsional vibration in the chassis, patented by Rover in 1933 incidentally.
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Weights in the rear would be useless, Rob, and should not be there, as the system requires the bumper to be independent of the chassis and fixed to a sprung beam which is attached to the chassis. This is the only way a damping resonance can be generated. The rear bumper is conventionally, i.e. rigidly, fixed to the chassis and can therefore not oscillate independently.
I thought I could have my caps re-chromed, but the plater confirmed they were stainless steel pressings crimped over the steel crown. I have a theory that it should not be difficult to turn up good solid copies in steel for plating or, preferably, st. steel for polishing. Drill and tap a blind hole underneath to take the mounting stud, and a locking half nut. Getting the st/stl stock may not be easy.
Quite right, the weights are only used in front. Sorry I did not mean to imply otherwise.
My caps polished up ok, but if they hadn’t, making them out of stainless round stock was my thought as well. McMaster-Carr has SS304 3" round x 3/4" thick discs at $22 each.
Perhaps a European source might have 70mm dia x 20mm thick discs which would be even closer, less to cut away.
I had a metal spinner make some up for me in stainless steel.
Once they are polished I will post a photo of the results. Hopefully a good result.
Cheers.
The nan (William Lyons) was a genius!!!
Was meant as a reply to Roger’s comment on WL’s choice of body and interior colours.
I find colour to be of paramount importance on esp classic cars. Very personal of course.
I have many XKs incl a Pastel green 120 OTS and my own tweak of Pastel blue, with more punch, on a 140DHC. Andda Williw green E with HT in same colour. Love these 3.
The 5 shades of grey on the XKs is brilliant. And yet Cream was the most popular colour on the XKs I think.
They will certainly be more resilient than the originals. If they turn out well, which I’m certain they will, others might prefer them. Now I’m just wondering how they will affect the harmonic balance discussed previously? Probably not much but who knows? Fun times!
Tim
Hi Tim.
Looking very nice. Great combination with the Lavender Grey.
Who supplied the materials?
Regards, Graham
PS. I had a company in Brisbane fabricate some bumper caps for me. I’ll endeavour to take a photo of them today.
You know that feeling you get when something you didn’t know reveals itself? I was watching a wonderful program about the continental Orient Express and a Frenchman referred to the carpets as “moquette”. I had always thought the “moquette” on the back of the seats was different to the “carpet” on the floors. 
The difference is in the weave and length of the “pile” as far as I can tell?
Tim
Amazing that he spoquette…